I i^^i pni i^ni g 1 ir ^ ^1 fr ^ ^ytv.u ^/,, \ r r * r 1 r M rj . \t r » 1 1 rnn lie i,iii\ rnr , 1 niV 3" HL .tifr>. A>^^ '- ' cc < iUONVSOV"^^' %aaAl^ 5 AfCAKFOfi'. <^. ^ >- 3 = a gl IJ Ji.»' oi. 'ouji luui :ii> ^\.1C I'vJIV CDT/^ inc furri f r <^ ■^ ^^■""'^''^ -^rnvm-iw^^^ 1 ' r-i S AWtUNIVERS//, AvlOSANCElfx> 3 ^^^ ^'^ ,OFCAllFO;?^j ^MEUNIVERS7a ^lOSANCElfj> o u. 3 ^ILIBRAR ^^ \omM^^ ^mmyiiV^ %sm\mi^ \ojnv3jo^ ^OfCALiF0% IIVERS//^ ^LOSANCftfj> %jiaAiNn3WV^ v^lOSANCElfx> -5^tUBRARYQ^ 1^ ^ J jmrntr ^ ^lllBRARYQc. %a3AINn3UV^ »3 ^OFCAlIFOff^ ^OFCAIIFO^^ CO %OJI1K)JO^ '^J'JliONVSOi:^ ,^WEUNIVER5/A % ^TilJOhYSOV^ »ARY^/ ^;;^t•LIBR^ VJJO'^' ^OJIlVJdO'^ Q ^ f ft Q 55 .^■ \ *^ t\ pis ^OfCAllFO/?^ AV\£UNIVER% ^ aiiuo aetaticf oliiit a. d. loyo, ct '2.3 oic 9!^cn!3i0 31'iiuiaL'i). J44 roroc;KAiMiv and axtiquities. CEt Kaforina Waisiic iiroc CJU0, £^uonim ^nimaluisS propitictiu' 2Dca?s, iamciu In tlie middle, on each side of the cross : On a flat stone in the chancel, adorned with the cross : li^lC I'aCCnt Patricius Wliyte, fill'UCf Jolianiiis, qUOIlDam tiW CitlitiU(0 WatorfoKluu, (]lli OlUit, Ct Anastacia Grant, £)U0 UXOV, qiUIC Oluit x tllC S^CItiSl^ ^CtOllClff, A. D. 1592. On a copper plate fixed on the outside of the south wall, was this inscription. Heic inter utramque Colinnnani Deposltum DANIELIS BURSTON, S. T. D. Miseri Peccatoris, et quondam hujus Ecclesiae Catliedralis Decani indignissinii, latet in spe Resurrectionis. Til qui Priniitiae es, Phosphore, redde diem. Tumulatus fuit octavo die mensis Decembris anno Salutis humanae, Millesimo Sexcentesimo Septuagesimo octavo. Epitapliiuni hoc ipse sibi dictavit vivus; Atque hue Tabulii a;nea insculpendum ; quam Tabulani hie loci ponendam jussit. Cujus mandato obsequentes Ties ejus Executores eandem sic poni curaverunt. These and many other ancient monuments pe- CITY OF WATERFORD. 145 rished beneath the hands of the gothic destroyers of the ancient cathedral, and it is said, were cast into a vault beneath the communion table of the present church : the relics of antiquity which were preserved, will be noticed hereafter. At a meeting of a committee appointed by the council of the corporation, held on the four- teenth of July, 1773, and assisted by the Bishop of Waterford, and the Dean and Chapter, it was resolved, that the old Cathedral Church should be taken down and a new one built in its place. The sum proposed to be expended was £4000; the actual expense, including £150 for pulling down the old building, was £5397, defrayed by the Corporation, by the tithes of Cahir, the sale of pews, and by private subscriptions. The new church was fit for service, though not completed in 1779. It is a matter of sincere regret to many who recollect the ancient edifice, that the profane hands of the last generation should have violated this beautiful remnant of antiquity. It was sta- ted, as a plea for destroying the old building, that it was become so much decayed, as to be judged unsafe for the purposes of public wor- ship ; but there is some reason to doubt the cor- rectness of this opinion, not only from the ac- knowledged strength of all the ancient churches, but also from the extreme difficulty which the workmen experienced in effecting its demolition. 14G TOPOCillAPIlY AND ANTKilJITIES, From the ruins of the old cathedral, and with much of the same materials, arose the present building, without even the slightest resemblance to that which preceded it : the gloomy aisles, the gothic arches and pointed windows are replaced by the light and vivid beauties of modern archi- tecture. The present church is capable of contain- ing about eleven hundred persons: it is a light and beautiful building, entirely in the modern style: the aisles are divided by a double row of columns, which support the galleries on each side. The length of the body of the church is ninety feet; the height forty ; total length one hundred and seven- ty feet, breadth fifty-eight feet. A portion of the western extremity of the building is appropriated to the grand entrance, on each side of which are the vestry and the consistorial court : over these are apartments for a library, and from this part of the building rises a steeple of considerable elevation, neatly formed and decorated, but extremely faulty in its pro- portions. Between the western end and the body of the church, is a lofty and spacious porch, in which are preserved some of the monuments of the old cathedral. Adjoining the consistorial court, is the monu- ment of Doctor Nathaniel Foy, Bishop of Water- ford and Lismore. Near this, on a very neat monument, a child is represented weeping over a female figure : both • CITY OF WATERFORD. 147 are executed in statuary marble ; underneath is the following : TO THE MEMORY OF MRS. SUSANNAH MASON, DAUGHTER OF SIR JOHN MASON, KNT. AFTER A LIFE OF EXEMPLARY TIETY, SHE DIED AUGUST, MDCCLII, AGED LXV. At this fair shrine let not a tear be shed Till Piety and Charity are dead. Nor let the great and good her loss deplore While they pursue the path she trod before ; But should her bright example cease to shine. Grieve then ye righteous, and ye poor repine. No ostentatious hand this marble placed. No flatt'ring pen the just encomium traced ; Such virtues to transmit, is only giving Praise to the dead, to edify the living. A monument which was erected in the old cathedral, in 1747, to the respectable family of Morris, is placed in the porch. Adjoining it, is the monument of the May family, also taken from the old cathedral, where it was erected in 1686. On the right hand, is a very splendid monu- ment, erected by the family of the Fitzgcralds. In the front is a statue of Time, an inverted, broken hour glass in one hand, and in the other, a scythe. Piety, veiled, is bending over a medal- lion of the persons to whose memory the monu- 148 TOPOGUAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. mcnt was erected. Over these statues are the Fitzgerald arms, with pahn branches and oak leaves depending. The figures, which are in Italian statuary marble, are represented standing upon a tomb, over which is a pall, having on it the following inscription — In the YEAR 1770, THIS monument was ERECTED TO THE MEMORY OF NICHOLAS FITZGERALD, LATE OF KINg's MEADOW, ESQ. DECEASED, AND OF JOHN FITZGERALD, LATE OF THE CITY OF LONDON, ESQ. DECEASED, PURSUANT TO THE LAST WILL AND TESTAMENT OF RICHARD FITZ- GERALD, LATE OF THE CITY OF AVESTMINSTER, ESQ. DECEASED, THE ELDEST SON OF THE SAID NICHOLAS, AND NEPHEW OF THE SAID JOHN FITZGERALD. The Right Hon. Harvey Lord Viscount Mount Morres, Shapland Carew, Esq. Edward Woodcock, Esq. and The Rev. Edward Woodcock, CLERK. >trustees. The words CROM A BOO were originally placed at the head of this monument, but have since been removed. A tablet, inscribed with the names of many members of the family of Denis, one of whom died in 1681, has been lately re-erected within the present church. This monument was taken CITY OF WATEHFORD. 149 dowij when the old cathedral was demolished, and has been since carefully preserved by the re- presentatives of the family. Opposite the door of the vestry is a very plain flag", bearing the following inscription, written by the Rev. Arthur Stanhope, Dean of Waterford. VIATOR SISTE GRADUM PAULISPER. TUA ENIM MAXIME INTERERIT NOSSE CUJUS SUB HOC MARMORE OBSEQUUNTUR RELIQUI^ ; NEMPE EJUS SUNT, QU^, DUM VIXIT, FUIT ELIZABETHA CHRISTMAS, FCEMINA LECTISSIMA, UXOR CASTISSIMA, MATER PIISSIMA, CONSORS JUCUNDISSIMA QUINTUPLICI EO NOMINE SATIS UBIQUE NOTA SCILICET HANC HABUIT UXOREM THOMAS CHRISTMAS, DE CIVITATE WATERFORDI^ MERCATOR, DUDUM PR.ETOR, ET ETIAMNUM SENATOR URBANUS. FCELICIOREM HUNC, QUOD TALEM NACTUS SIT UXOREM, AN MISERIOREM, QUOD AMISERIT, HAUD FACILE DIXERLS; NISI QUOD EO NOMINE FCELIX MERIt6 SIT DICENDUS, QUOD TALEM NACTUS, NUMEROSAM EX EADEM SUSCEPEUIT PKOJ.KM, 150 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. QUIPPE EX UTRIUSQUE FCELICI COPULA, LIBERORUM TERN^ TRIADES, BIN^ FILIORUM, NIMIRUM, RICHARDUS, JACOBUS, JOHANNES, CAROLUS, GULIELMUS, JOSEPHUS. ALTERA TRIAS FILIARUM, NEMPE MARIA, ELIZABETHA MARGARETA EMANARUNT. NOVEM HOS CHARISSIMOS LIBEROS, SIBI SUPERSTITES, MATER RELIQUIT MORIENS, QUOS, EADEM ■QUA PEPERERAT, EOS SOLICITUDINE CURATOS MARITO SUO MORITURA QUASI COMMENDAVIT OBNIXE, SCILICET, UT IS JAM QUASI UTRIUSQUE SEXUS PARENS FACTUS, CONDUPLICATO AMORE QUA MATERNO, QUA PATERNO, SINGULOS USQUE COMPLECTERETUR, FOVERET, SUSTENTARET, EDUCARET, PUERPERA FATIS CESSURA, SIC (eXISTIMES) EAM MARITUM SUUM ALLOCUTAM EN (charissime) ULTIMUM NOSTRI FIDELISSIMI, ATQUE CASTISSIMI AMORIS PIGNUS QUOD TIBI JAM EDIDI. ET SIC EDIDIT, ET SIC OBIIT ANNO ^TATIS SU^, ULTRA TRIGESIMUM, SEPTIMO, MENSIS FEBRUARIJ DIE VIGESIMO SECUNDO, ET SALUTIS HUMAN.E INSTAURAT^E ANNO MILLESIMO SEXCENTESIMO SEPTUAGESIMO SEPTIMO. H.EC CUM TU (lector) RESCIERIS, SICCIS (sI POTEs) OCIJLIS, HINC ABEAS LICET. CITY OF WATERFORD. 151 These are the only ancient monuments within the walls of the cathedral ; but there are two in the chiirch yard, at the eastern extremity, which to the antiquary are more valuable than all the others : they are exposed to the weather, and are decaying rapidly. One is the monument of James Rice, who was mayor of Waterford, in 1469. This tomb was originally placed in the chapel which he founded, and from thence was removed into the body of the cathedral : it was afterwards erected in the burying ground, outside the church. On this monument, the effigy of Rice, in high relief, is re- presented lying on his back, having a shroud tied in a knot, at the head and feet; vermin resem- bling frogs and toads, are cut in the stone, as it were creeping out of his body. The following inscription, in the gothic character, runs round the figure. I^ic iacn 3Iacolnt0 lllicc, quoutiam cibi0 i0tiu0 Cititan0, ct maiiDato i<5tiu0 »»0pclituc liarccina :Srouu, uror cju0* £iiii5jquii3 cci^, qui tiMiitiii3i uror CJU0 quacoliiir On the western side of the tower : HIC JACET MICHAEL HORE CIVIS QUONDAM ET MAR- CATOR CIVITATIS WATERFORDI^ QUI OBIIT ET ANASTACIA WAILSH UXOR EJUS QU.^ OBIIT 3Ioaiinc (IxUa uroriss. eijj q, tiitam mo— concel0it quarto 3Itiu0 3]anuaria0 ^. 2D» \5m. HIC JACET CLEMENT WOODLOCK GENEROSUS AC CIVIS WATEKFORDL-E ET MARIA WALSllE UXOR EJUS l^ic jacct laoliertiDS Eincol filing (Bulitlmi citiis ciViitati0 (lillatcrfortiie qui oluit 15 3Iaiiuarp anno 2Domini i63o, ct u;ror fiujj Sl^arprita Brotone quae cbiit CITY OF WATERFORD. 159; MARY DE-RAXT ALIAS ALCOCK DIED YE. 17tH OF JANUARY 1716, AGED 33 YEARS — PETER DE-RANT DIED YE. 27 JANUARY 1756, AGED 81 YEARS. On the south side of the tower of the French Church, there is placed in the wall, a pretty high monument of Matthew Grant, who was appointed one of the sheriffs of the city, by Charles I.'s charter in 1626, and subsequently filled the office of mayor. It represents his coat of arms with the motto over the shield, and various ornaments : part of the inscription is totally illegible. HIC JACET MATTH.EUS GRANT CIVIS WATERFORDI- ENSIS QUI OBIIT DIE ANO UXOR EJUS CATHERINE SKIDY QUiE OBIIT 12 OCTO- BRIS ANO 1627 CATHERINE PORTER, QU^ OBIIT PER MISERICORDIA -- LAZARUS This church was granted by government in the early part of the last century, for the use of the French Protestants who settled in this country in consequence of the revocation of the edict of Nantz, and was endowed with sixty pounds per annum, as a stipend to the officiating clergyman. The lapse of time, and intercourse with the people of this country, have long since had the effect of naturalizing the descendants of the French rcfu- IGO TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTKiUITIES. g€€s : the regular congregation of this church has consequently been diminishing from year to year, and is now entirely broken up, by the death of the late respectable and venerated minister, who, in early life, officiated to a large congrega- tion of his countrymen, scarcely one of whom re- mained to follow him to the grave. The performance of divine service is now dis- continued, and the salary withdrawn. The Church of St. Thomas, situated on a hill bearing that name, is supposed to have been erected by King Henry II. or his son John, and dedicated to the memory of Thomas a Beckett as a testimony of regret for the murder of that prelate. — Part of the entrance still remains and exhibits a beautiful specimen of Saxon architec- ture. ROMAN CATHOLIC CHAPELS, AND MEETING HOUSES. There are four Roman Catholic chapels in Waterford. The principal one, in Baron-strand- street, supposed to be one of the largest buildings in Ireland, is capable of accommodating 11,000 people. It was built in 1793, at an expense of £20,000, which was raised chiefly by collections of halfpence at the chapel door. The chapel at CITY OF WATERFORD. 161 Ballybricken can accommodate about 3000 per- sons. The other two chapels are very confined, and can only afford room to about 500 each. At the Reformation, when the Roman Catho-- lies of Trinity Parish were dispossessed of Christ Church, they were prevented, for some time, from having any public place of worship ; but were afterwards allowed to meet in an old build- ing in the form of an L, at the rear of the house now occupied by Mr. Weekes, and opposite to the present great chapel. In 1693, they peti-. tioned the Corporation, setting forth their great want of accommodation, and praying that they might be allowed to build a large chapel at the back of the houses in Baily's-lane, which was an obscure passage not much frequented by the in- habitants ; by way of strengthening their applica- tion, they promised, that if permitted to erect a suitable building, it should be hid from the view of the Corporation, so as not to be offensive to them. Their request being complied with, they built the late great chapel, the entrance to which was from Baily's-lane. In 1790, the Roman Catholics applied a second time to the Corpora- tion, who very liberally bestowed upon them all the ground in front of Baron-strand-street, from Baily's-lane to Mr. Charles Clarke's house, for 999 years, at the yearly rent of two shillings and sixpence. The old cha})cl, which had stood 1G2 TOPOGHAPIIY AND ANTIQUITIES. nearly one hundred years, was then taken down, and the new one commenced. The present building has a beautiful architec- tural front of hewn stone, of the Ionic order : only a few columns have been erected, and the en- trance and portico are even yet in a very unfinish- ed state. The interior of the chapel is remarkable for lightness and grand simplicity. The immense roof is supported by columns of the Corinthian order, serving to diversify the appearance of same- ness, which the undivided floor of the building might otherwise produce. There are preserved here some magnificent dresses,* supposed to have been the gift of Pope Innocent III. to the cathedral of Waterford. These dresses, which are used by the officiating Priest, and his assistants, on the day before Easter Sunday, consist of various articles, as Copes, Vestments, Dalmatics, &c. &:c. The copes are five in number: they are about four feet in depth, and six in length, and when placed across the shoulders, meet gracefully in front. Three of the Copes are of crimson and two of green velvet, and are almost entirely covered with gold embroi- dery, which, after the lapse of so many ages, is still bright and splendid, though of course much * It is probably these dresses which are alluded to in an order of Council, as having been fraudulently taken by Richard Butler, Esq. Mayor, ^ee the account of the Cathedral, page 136. CITY Ot' WATERl ORD. 163 worn. A broad band of highly finished work, representing various parts of scripture history, occupies the longer side of the cope ; the figures are admirably executed, and the countenances are remarkable for a great variety of expression. The Vestments, which are close dresses, are worn under the copes: the Dalmatics are like the Vestments, except that they have sleeves. Amongst the valuable plate belonging to the chapel, the following deserve notice. A taberna- cle of silver, in which the consecrated elements are exhibited : this is a magnificent piece of workmanship of pure silver, richly chased ; it bears the date of 1729, and this inscription, " Be- longing to God and Paul White's heirs." — A silver crucifix, with the words " orate pro Dr. Laurentio. Carew, 1752." Several large silver candlesticks, and a splendid silver lamp, on which are the words, " This lamp was given by Thomas Nunezael to the most holy sacrament, 1738." A crucifix said to contain a portion of the true cross is shewn here; it is a plain piece of work- manship, and exhibits the appearance of great antiquity. Around the edge are these words, ** Ista particula ligni sacratissimiE crucis pertinet ad Ecclesiam Cathedralcm Sanctissimo Trinitatis Waterfordie. I.H.S. MAR." At one extremity is the date, 1C20. 164 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. There are two handsome monuments erected to the memory of Doctor Hussey and Doctor Power, Roman Catholic Bishops of Waterford. The former is outside the chapel, and it is to be re- gretted that it is exposed to the influence of the weather : it consists of a marble slab fixed in the wall, and bears this inscription. D. O. M. IIIC JACEXT SEPULT^ EXUVI/E MORTALES REVERENDIS: & ILLUSTRIS: DOMI THOM.i: HUSSEY, S. T. D. QUI PER SEPTEM ANNOS ECCLESIA.AI MATERFORDIENS: & LISMORIENS: REXIT. OBIIT AXXO 1S03, DIE JULII IImO. ^TATIS 62^- REQUIESCAT IN PACE. The monument of Bishop Power is exceedingly handsome. A female figure is represented kneel- ing on a sarcophagus, and holding an open book, on which is written in gold letters — " Thy prayers and thine alms are come up for a memorial be- fore God." Over the head of the figure is a crown, with the words "Well done, good and faithful servant." On the Sarcophagus — SACRED TO THE MEMORY OF THE RIGHT REV. DOCTOR JOHN POWER, CITY OF WATERFORD. 165 WHO FOR ELEVEN YEARS GOVERNED THE UNITED DIOCESES OF AYATERFORD AND LISMORE. IN HIS ZEAL, DIRECTED BY PRUDENCE AND KNOW- LEDGE, WAS DISPLAYED THE PRELATE ; IN HIS MEEKNESS, CHARITY, PIETY AND HUMILITY, WAS EXEMPLIFIED THE CHRISTIAN ; AND IN HIS ENLARGED BENEVOLENCE AND UNWEARIED EXERTIONS TO PROMOTE THE TRUE HAPPINESS OF ALL, SHONE FORTH THE MAN. HIS FELLOW CITIZENS OF EVERY RELIGIOUS DENO- MINATION, AND HIS SORROWING FLOCK, LAMENTING AS IF WITH ONE VOICE, THE LOSS OF SUCH A PASTOR TO THE CHURCH, OF SUCH A MEMBER TO SOCIETY, AND ANXIOUS TO PERPETUATE THEIR SENSE OF HIS VIRTUES, HAVE ERECTED THIS MONUMENT. OBIIT JAN. XXVII. MDCCCXVI. REQUIESCAT IN PACE. The Meeting Houses in Waterford are very nu- merous — they are - attended by Presbyterians, Baptists, Quakers, Methodists and Independents. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. Waterford can boast of very few public build- ings of any considerable antiquity: the most an- cient of those recently used were tlie Exclumge IGG TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. and Cuslom-lmise', they were situated on the quay, mid-way between the extremities of the city, but being- in a ruinous condition, it was found neces- sary to take them down. The new Toivn-hall is a fine building, situated on the Mall, contiguous to the bishop's Palace, and having a view of the river Suir. The front, faced with stone, presents a good appearance, and is admired for its just proportions and the simplicity of its style. The principal entrance opens into the public hall, or exchange, which was formerly the resort of merchants, who assembled here to make contracts and transact other commercial business: a curious looking antique, somewhat resembling a nail in form, and about four feet high, stood in the old exchange : bargains were concluded by laying the stipulated money upon this stand or nail, and hence the origin of the saying, " to pay down upon the nail." Under the same roof with the town-hall, is a very neat Theatre, and also a handsome suite of rooms for public entertainments. The Market House has recently been erected on a piece of ground immediately adjoining the river : as a place for the purposes of trade, it is commodious and well arranged; but its situa- tion is ill chosen, as it breaks in upon the line of quay, which extends from one end of the city CITY OF WATERFORD. 1G7 to the other, and which presents a view of little less than an English mile in length, along the banks of the river. The Fish House, a neat building, is similarly situated, and obstructs the view in like manner. It is to be hoped that these two buildings may be made to give way to the beauty of the city. The Bishops Palace stands at the south side of the open space which surrounds the cathedral church. It is a magnificent building of hewn stone, having two fronts ; that next the Mall is ornamented with a handsome portico, sustained by pillars of the Doric order. The top of the building is adorned with a handsome cornice. The other front, next the church yard, has the doors, window cases, and coigne stones of plain rustic work. The Deanery House and a building for the ac^ commodation of clergymen's widows are situated in the same open space. The Widows Apartment is built upon the site of the palace in which King John resided during his stay in Waterford. It consists of a neat range of houses, with two returns, facing the grand entrance of the cathedral. A marble slab placed over the middle door, ])ears this inscription. 1G8 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. " This Apartment founded by the Right Reve- " rend Dr.Hugh Gore, late Lord Bishop of Water- " ford and Lismore, for tlxe use of clergymen's wi- " dows ; and was erected, in the year of our Lord " 1702, by Sir John Mason, Knight, surviving exe- " cutor of his Lordship's last will and testament." The benevolent Hugh Gore, whose whole time and property were devoted to pious and charita- ble pursuits, was created bishop of Waterford and Lismore in 1C66. He was a man of great talents and great modesty, to which qualities he united a liberality and charity which knew no limits. At the close of a long life, spent in im- proving his diocess and relieving the afflicted, he was seized by some Irish ruffians who broke into his bed chamber at night and beat him se- verely ; and it was only by entering a secret un- derground passage leading to the deanery — a passage still in existence — that he contrived to effect his escape. He was however enabled to survive this cruel treatment and retired to Wales, where he died in 1691. By his will, dated 30th September, 1G90, he bequeathed almost all his fortune to pious and charitable uses ; there was afterwards much diffi- culty in recovering this property, which was taken possession of by some individuals, under pretence of a subsequent will. It is said that a vast quantity of gold, part of the bishop's pro- CITY OF WATERFORD. 1G9 perty, which had been secreted in one of the cellars of the palace, was subsequently disco- vered by some workmen engaged in repairing the premises. Among the bishop's bequests are the following: £200, towards providing a ring of bells for the church of Lismore and beautifying the choir of it; £100, towards buying a ring of bells for the church of Clonmell ; £20, to the English poor of Waterford. The impropriate tithes of the parish of Cahir, in the county of Tipperary, being the residue of his property after his bequest for cler- gymen's widows, is left to the bishops of Water- ford, to be expended from time to time in re- building and repairing decayed churches. £1200 were bequeathed for building an asylum and purchasing lands for the maintenance of ten poor ministers' widows, to each of whom he allotted ten pounds per annum. The nomination is vested in the Bishop and Dean, for the time being, with power to appoint a receiver of the rents, who is accountable to them. The bishop's property having been re- covered after a tedious and expensive law suit, his executors erected the present building, and with the residue of the fund purchased lands in the liberties of Waterford. The Court House and the 0'(?/ and County Gaols occupy a considerable space of ground, near to M 170 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. the place where St. Patrick's gate formerly stood, The court house was designed and executed at the recommendation of the celebrated Howard, by James Gandon, Esq. who died lately, at the advanced age of 82. These buildings have a handsome front, faced with granite. In the centre stands the court house : the entrance opens into a hall, from which is seen the interior of the county and city courts, which are tolerably arranged and well lighted, but too much confined to give suitable accommoda- tion to the public. The gaols, although recently erected, are very inconvenient, and do not admit of the improved prison discipline now so generally practised. A Chamber of Commerce was incorporated in this city by charter, in the year 1815. The Penitentiarij, or house of correction, situa- ted in the suburbs, was erected in the year 1 820, at an expense of £4,990. It seems to be built on the plan of the Bury gaol. An exterior wall surrounds a quadrangular space of considerable extent; at one extremity of which is placed the governor's house, having the cells ranged in a semicircle round it. At the rear of the cells, and within the walls, are gardens and ground where the prisoners are employed in labour. The in- ternal arrangements of this prison are not yet CITY OF AVATERFORD. 171 completed ; but it has been made available for a considerable number of persons, no less than 269 prisoners having been received between June, 1821, and April, 1824. The annual expense aver- ages about £260. The male prisoners are occa- sionally employed at a tread-mill, which has been recently introduced. The Waterford Institution was established in December, 1820. It is situated in Lady-lane, and consists of a well selected and daily increasing library, a reading-room and a news-room. There are at present one hundred proprietors, who paid ten guineas each, and contribute one guinea an- nually. Subscribers, of which there are ninety, pay two guineas annually. The books of the *' Waterford Subscription Library" have been added to this, in return for which the proprietors were granted an allowance of three guineas in the purchase of the new shares. The business of the Waterford Institution is conducted by a committee, consisting of a presi- dent, vice-president, and seven members, toge- ther wuth the treasurer. The proprietors note down in a book such works as they consider deserving of attention, and it remains with the committee to make such selections from these as they may think ):)roper. The ])resent stock of the Institution exceeds £2000. — There is a tolerable collection of minerals. m2 172 . TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUTTIES. •RIVERS, BRIDGES AND QUAY. The Sidr, a broad navigable river, presents many advantages to the inhabitants of Waterford, and has always rendered this city remarkable as a place of trade. It takes its rise in the county of Tipperary, which it separates from the county of Waterford. After a course of about four miles, it passes Clonmel, and is navigable for boats to Carrick-on- Suir; and from thence vessels of considerable tonnage may proceed up to the quay of Water- ford. From Waterford the Suir flows by a circuitous course, and at the distance of about three miles is joined by the rivers Nore and Barrow, opposite the little village of Cheek-point. The united stream, now become almost an arm of the sea, flows past the town of Passage, and after a course of twenty miles falls into the ocean, forming the harbour of Waterford. The depth of the water immediately in front of the city varies from twenty to sixty-five feet at low water. Vessels of nearly SOOtons may come up close to the quay — a circumstance particularly favourable for the embarkation of cavalry and military stores. It was long a source of regret, that no steps CITY OF \\"ATERFORD. 173 had been taken for the removal of the fords or banks, which had ahnost blocked up the entrance to the quay of Waterford, to the great prejudice of the trade of the city : of late years this busi- ness has been attended to, with a success which is highly creditable to all the parties concerned. On the 20th of June, 1816, the royal assent was given to an act of parliament for " deepening, cleansing, and improving such parts of the river Suir, as constitute the port and harbour of Water- ford, between Bilberry Rock and Hook Tower, including St. Catherine's, commonly called St. John's Pill — the appointment of a Pilot-office and Ballast-office in the said city of Waterford." The grand object of the commissioners ap- pointed under this act was to take measures for enlarging the channel, which had already been commenced through the fords, so as to make it two hundred and ten feet wide, and seven feet deep. This great undertaking is now nearly completed : when finished, the expense will be about £22,000, of which government has already granted £14,588. The depth of water now in the channel, at the fords, is twenty-one feet at high spring tides, and seventeen at neap tides. Ves- sels drawing eighteen feet can clear the fords at four hours flood tide. In addition to the enlargement of the channel, through the up])cr and lower fords, the harbour 174 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. commissioners have materially improved that most difficult and dangerous navigation, called the King's Channel, by placing therein and along its verge mooring and warping buoys, perches, rings, chains, and posts. This improvement of the King's Channel, where vessels of the largest class can now, at all times of tide, have a super- abundance of water, added to the cut of two hun- dred and ten feet through the fords, has removed all those impediments to the trade up to the city of Waterford, so frequently complained of by naviGfators. We are also indebted to the commis- sioners, and to the indefatigable exertions of their secretary, Mr. Brownrigg, for a considerable re- duction in the rates of tonnage duty, ballast and pilotage ; as well as for the improved rules and regulations which they have adopted, with the view of preventing the possibility of frauds being practised upon masters of vessels frequenting the port of Waterford — practices which prevailed to an alarming extent previous to the introduction of the act into this port. There are now three excellently found pilot boats, two of thirty and one of forty tons regis- ter, stationed near the entrance of the harbour, for the purpose of furnishing all vessels with pilots ; and no accident can happen to a vessel whilst in charge of a Branch pilot, without an investigation taking place before the committee, who never CITY OF WATERFORD. 175 fail to punish the pilot if found guilty of neglect of duty, or impropriety of conduct. The commissioners have likewise been instru- mental in the erection of beacon towers at Browns- town and Newton Heads ; and, after repeated solicitations, have at length succeeded in procu- ring the establishment of a floating light near the Saltees : by which two objects, the hitherto fre- quent loss of lives and property will at once be prevented. Johns River, which falls into the Suir, within the bounds of the city, has its source in the marshy lands between Waterford and Tramore, about three miles distant from the former place. It is a narrow stream until it approaches Water- ford, when it is affected by the tides, and becomes, at high water, navigable for the largest descrip- tion of boats. John's River is traversed by three bridges, with- in the city of Waterford; two of ancient date, namely, John's bridge, and William-street bridge, and one, called Catherine's bridge, recently erect- ed, near the old abbey of St. Catherine. It is surprising that so considerable and so an- cient a city as Waterford should not have had a bridge over the Suir until 1794 : for although it has been conjectured, from the discovery, a few years since, of some fragments of piles and framed 17G TOPOGUAPIIY AND ANTIQUITIES. timber, that the Danes had a bridge over the river at this place, we are without any record of the fact. In former times it was considered a vast attempt to erect a bridge over a river of such depth and breadth as the river of Waterford ; we may therefore conclude, from these and other circumstances, that no attempt was made before that which has so fortunately succeeded. The wooden-bridge connecting Waterford and the county of Kilkenny was undertaken, in 1793, by a company, (incorporated by act of parliament,) who subscribed £30,000 to complete the work, including the purchase of the ferry. The money was raised by loans of £100 each, the interest of which was to be paid by the tolls of the bridge. The work, having been completed for a less sum than was originally estimated, only required the payment of £90 on each debenture. The erection of a bridge has eventually become a good specu- lation; the debentures now sell for £170, and the company have a sinking fund, already advanced to a considerable amount, to repair or rebuild the bridge, as may be necessary. The tolls for the present year let for £42G0. The present bridge was built of American oak, by Mr. Cox, a native of Boston, who also erected the magnificent bridge over the Slaney, and also those of Derry, Portumna and Ross. Cox advised the proprietors of the Waterford bridge to case CITY OF WATERFORD. 177 one of the piers with stone until the whole were completed; but his advice was not followed. Two tablets, affixed to the centre piers, give an account of the manner in which the foundation was laid, the date of the erection, and the mate- rials of which it was composed. The inscriptions are as follow: — In 1793, a year rendered sacred to national prosperity by the extinction of religious divisions, the foundation of this bridge was laid, at the expense of associated individuals united by parliamentary grants, by sir john newport, bart. chairman of their committee. mr. lemuel cox, a native of boston, in america, architect. on the thirtieth day of april, 1793, this bridge was begun. on the eighteenth of january, 1794, it mas opened for the passage of carriages. it is 832 feet in length, 40 in breadth, consisting of stone abutments and forty sets of piers of oak. i jil dei'l'h of water a'l' lowest ebb tides 37 feet. 178 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. THIS M'OHK M'AS COMPLETED, AND THE FERRY PUR- CHASED, BY A SUBSCRIPTION OF THIRTY THOUSAND POUNDS, UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE FOLLOWING COMMITTEE. SIR JOHN NEWPORT, BART. SAMUEL BOYSE, ESQ. SIR SIMON NEWPORT. THOMAS QUAN, ESQ. REV. WILLIAM DENIS. Vn,l. PENROSE FRANCIS, THOMAS ALCOCK, ESQ. ESQ. MAUNSELL BOWERS, ESQ. ROBERT HUNT, ESQ. HUMPHREY JONES, ESQ. JOHN CONGREVE,ESQ. THOMAS H. STRANGMAN, JAMES RAMSAY, ESQ. ESQ. The Qi{ai/, unequalled by any thing of the kind in Ireland, is an English mile in length — a conti- nued line with scarcely any interruption through- out its entire extent. Between the houses and the river there is a flag way for foot passengers, and a road for carriages, the whole length of the quay: the part immediately adjoining the river, is divided off from the road, and forms a delight- ful promenade. The carriage way is now, and has been for many years, formed on what is called the Mac Adam principle. For the advantages of this noble quay, we are indebted in a great measure to David Lewis, Esq. in whose mayoralty, in the year 1705, the quay was greatly enlarged, by throwing down the u f:uh,d iv jrrr./irr„ir 'LI IL 'i' Y m' "Wk T ]K K IB"' O K "1 5 . Jjond^n pulhaltd b« JoU ikrr.u. CITY OF WATERFORD. 179 town walls. He also threw down Baron-strand gate; filled the great ditch, which then joined that gate and the town wall ; and made a commu- nication between the old quay and the new. The present quay and several of the fine buildings on it, including the exchange, were commenced in his time. To see the the quay to any advantage, the ob- server should ascend the hill on the opposite side of the river, which commands a noble view of the city, the river, the quay, and much of the adjoin- ing country, terminated at a great distance by Sleeve-ne-man and the mountains of Cummeragh. From this point of view a considerable portion of the Suir comes under observation : above the town, the picturesque castle of Granny hangs over the river ; nearer are the high and precipi- tous hills between which the bridge is erected. All these objects, with the steeple and towers of the city, present altogether a beautiful and im- posing landscape. SCHOOLS. Education has always been esteemed in Ireland. The Irish ever desired the character of a learned pco))lc; from the cloistered monk to the mendi- cant wandering through the country under the name of " poor scholar," learning has at all 180 Toro(;uAriiY and antiquities. times been zealously and enthusiastically culti- vated. Chansfe of times and customs has effected little alteration in this particular. The poor scholar in- deed has suffered for the sins of his fraternity ; he who was wont to traverse from house to house, professedly engaged in instructing others, but really existing upon classic lore — himself as dead as the learning which absorbed all his faculties — is now almost banished : the idle and worthless have assumed his character, and his place is seen no more. A better system of education is now adopted: the number of regular schools has in- creased considerably within the last fifty years, and affords promises of much improvement in the morals of the people. The principal and only Endowed School here, is under the patronage of the corporation, who give a school-house and a residence for the master's family rent free. The master, who is necessarily a clergyman of the established church, has also the appointment of Lecturer of St. Olave's, with a salary arising from an allowance from the corpo- ration, together with the interest of some money bequeathed by Bishop Milles, amounting alto- gether to £100 per annum. Amongst the schools established for the gra- tuitous education of youth, the first to be dcscri- CITY OF WATERFORD. 181 bed is that founded by Bishop Foy, and called the Boijs' Blue School. This noble foundation was the gift of an individual, of whom a brief memoir is subjoined. Nathaniel Foy was born in the city of York, and educated in Trinity College, Dublin, of which university he was elected a fellow. He was next appointed minister of the parish of St. Bridgid, in Dublin, where he first distinguished himself as an able theologian. After the success of King William, he was promoted to the see of Waterford and Lismore, where he continued until his death, which took place on the first of January, 1707. He bequeathed £5 to his kinsman, Thomas France, for preaching his funeral sermon, with this singular condition, that he should speak no- thing of his person, good or ill; and he directed that the charge of his funeral should on no ac- count exceed thirty pounds. He left £20 to the poor of the city of Waterford ; to the Blue-coat Hospital in Dublin, £10; and £7 to the church- wardens of the parish of St. Bridgid, to be dis- posed of in charitable uses. He mentions that he had expended £800 in the improvement of the episcopal house at Waterford, and he bequeathed, that whatever should be got out of that sum from his successor should go to the mayor and corporation of Waterford, to be laid out on good security, the yearly profits to be employed in apprenticing out protestant children 182 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. of the inhabitants of Waterford, either boys or girls; and he gave the nomination of the per- sons to be bound out, to the bishop, dean, and mayor of Waterford, or any two of them, where- of the bishop to be always one. After these pro- visions, he bequeathed the remainder of his pro- perty for the establishment of a school for the gratuitous education of protestant children. In the will it was directed, that fifty children should be instructed in reading and writing, and in the principles of religion. The salary of the master was fixed at forty pounds a year, and that of the catechist at ten pounds, with liberty to increase the salaries and the number of the scholars, as the funds should improve, in such a manner, that the number of scholars should be increased in the same proportion as the salaries. The nomination and removal of the master and the catechist were vested in the bishop alone : the mayor, three of the aldermen, and the sheriffs were to nominate the scholars to the bishop, for his approbation ; but in case the bishop should disapprove of any of them he might nominate others in their room. The executors under the will, having obtained from the corporation a grant of a piece of ground at the corner of Baron-strand-street, erected a handsome school-house, and, with the residue of the fund, purchased lands of the yearly value of £191: 2: 2; a further sum of £48 was shortly CITY OF WATERFORD. 183 after, at the death of the bishop's sister, added to the income of the charity, when the master's salary was raised to £60, the catechist's to £15, and the number of boys was increased from fifty to seventy-five. An act of parliament was subsequently ob- tained by the Rev. Nathaniel France, surviving executor, to perpetuate and regulate the charity. According to the provisions of this act, the ground conveyed by the corporation, and the lands pur- chased, together with a sum of £774 : 15 : 3^, then in his hands, were vested in this gentleman du- ring his life, and, after his decease, in the bishop, dean, and mayor of Waterford, for the time being, in trust, that out of the yearly income they should maintain and repair the school-house, pay £5 to the receiver, £15 to the catechist and £60 a year to the master, who should be obliged to teach gratuitously seventy-five poor children of the city of Waterford. The act further provided, that the master should have no other office, nor teach any other children, than the number mentioned, except his own ; that the excess of income after these dis- bursements should be applied to clothe the seven- ty-five children, and if there still remained an overplus, that it should be expended in binding out the b(jys as apprentices. It ap|)cars from a re- port of the board of education, that the income of 184 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. the charity, in the year 1788, was £523: 11:0, and that there was then the sum of £1400 in money, lodged in private security, belonging to the trustees, and that seventy-five children were in that year on the establishment. In the year 1808, an act of parliament was ob- tained for the better regulation of this charitable institution, by which the trustees were empowered to sell the school-house in Baron-strand-street, to erect a new school-house in a more convenient situation, and to raise the salaries of the master and ushers, the former to £100, the latter to £50 a year each. The funds of the charity having increased con- siderably, in consequence of the determination of leases, and the accumulation of a sum of £4900 from the savings of former years, the trustees resolved to maintain, board and lodge the master, ushers, servants and children in the school-house ; Bishop Foy, in his will, having limited his trus- tees to instructing and binding out the children only. The school was shortly afterwards established on the lands of Grantstown, within the liberties of the city, in a recently erected house, which, by numerous and rather unsightly additions to the original building, was rendered large and com- modious. The estates of the charity consist of about four- CITY OF WATERFORD. 185 teen hundred acres of land, together with two or three small plots of ground in the city of Waterford. Girls' Blue School. A school-house for the education of female children was erected in Lady-lane, in 1740, by Mrs. Mary Mason, daughter of Sir John Mason. The building, which cost £750, is plain and ra- ther gloomy, but sufficiently well adapted to the purpose for which it was intended. The arms of the Mason family, with the inscription of " pietas MAsoNiANA," are placed in the front. When this school was first established, thirty children were clothed and instructed until able to go to service : the salary of the mistress was £10 per annum. The whole expense was defrayed by an annuity of £60, paid by the Corporation, on account of £900 given for this purpose by Sir John Mason, Sarah Mason, and John Mason, Esq. In the year 1784, Counsellor Alcock left £1000 to the charity, the interest of which is expended in apprenticing the most deserving children. Kllloterau SchuuL The Charter School at Killoteran, within the liberties of the city, was built in the year 1744, and was endowed by the Corporation of Water- ford with twenty-six acres of land, at a nominal rent. N 18G TOPOGUAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. An avenue shaded with large trees, and of con- siderable length, leads to the house, which is situated on rising ground. The school-room is thirty feet in length, by twenty-one in breadth, and is lighted by four large windows : there are two dormitories of the same dimensions, lofty and well ventilated. The master's and ushers' apart- ments are in the centre of the house, and upon the same floor with the dormitories. There is a small infirmary detached from the house, and a room of recovery under it : the infirmary is well ventilated by two windows, placed at opposite sides. The children are instructed in reading and wri- ting and in the principles of religion ; and are occasionally employed in the garden and in agri- cultural labours. There are at present forty-nine children in the house. The annual expenditure varies from £700 to £800. Sunday Schools. There are several schools here, conducted ac- cording to the regulations recommended by the Kildare-street association. The Sunday School in Lady-lane, under the patronage of Mrs. Strang- man, and a similar establishment, under the super- intendence of Mrs. Nevins, at Ferry Bank, the opposite side of the river, are regularly and nu- merously attended. CITY OF WATERFORD. 187 The Roman Catholic Schools are very numer- ous: the principal private school is the College of St. John. In the city and part of the liberties there are no less than 3396 catholic children at different schools : of this number 1374 are females. The number of children whose parents pay for their education is 1376. The remaining 2020 are educated through the private charity of the inhabitants of Waterford, with the exception of one school for twenty females, which receives £10 a year from the Kildare-street society. In the schools established by Edmund Rice, Esq. for the education of poor Roman Catholic children, we have a splendid instance of the most exalted generosity. This gentleman having, at an early period of life, acquired an independent fortune by commercial pursuits, withdrew him- self from public engagements ; and being strongly impressed with the necessity of giving to the lower orders a religious education, he devoted his time, his talents, and his fortune, to erect and en- dow schools for their use. Amongst a distressed and unemployed population, whose religious opinions militate against the system of education offered them by their protestant brethren, these scliools have been of incalculable benefit : they have already impressed upon the lower classes a character which hitlierto was unknown to them ; and in the number of intelligent and respectable tradesmen, clerks and servants, which they have N 2 188 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. sent forth, bear the most unquestionable testimony to the public services of Edmund Rice. In the schools under the superintendence of Mr. Rice, there are nearly nine hundred boys. The teachers are young men, who, from religious motives, have devoted themselves to the instruction of the poor, and who act without reward. The principal fe- male school is conducted by the nuns of the Pre- sentation Convent, who instruct gratuitously four hundred girls. There is also a boarding school at the Ursuline Convent on the Newtown road ; — a short distance from which, a school has recently been established for the gratuitous education of poor females. It is much to be lamented that real or fancied obstacles should oppose the generaland national support of establishments which might otherwise be available to the indiscriminate education of the Irish poor. The difference of opinion seems to be confined to two points. One party requires the use, perhaps the too general use, of the holy scriptures, and at the same time, insists on the total exclusion of religious instruction : the Ro- man Catholic, on the other hand, demands reli- gious instruction as a paramount object, and confines the perusal of scripture within, perhaps, too narrow limits. Would it be unreasonable to expect concessions on both sides ? that a portion of time prior, or subsequent, to school hours should be appropriated to religious instruction; CITY. OF WATEllFORD. 189 and that the perusal of the scriptures by the chil- dren should be confided to the discretion of their respective spiritual teachers ? There are upwards of two thousand children gratuitously educated in this city alone, and were all impediments removed, and suitable assistance afforded, the present number might be greatly increased. CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. Holy Ghost Hospital. After the suppression of the monastery of the Franciscans, or Grey Friars, the master, brethren, and poor of the Hospital of the Holy Ghost were incorporated in their place, by patent dated 15th August, 36 Henry VIII. (1546.) We may collect from this patent, and another of the same mo- narch, dated 7th of September, of the same year, that Henry Walsh had purchased the house or monastery of the Franciscans, together with all the property which anciently belonged to it, in trust for the master, brethren and poor of the hospital, who were to pay annually for the same eight shillings Irish money, in addition to a former sum of £150 : 13 : 4, the consideration for which the grant was made. According to the 190 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. terms of the first patent, the master and his suc- cessors, with the advice and consent of the mayor, bailiffs and four senior of the common-council, had power to nominate and elect, from time to time, three or four secular priests for celebra- ting divine service in the hospital, of which they were to be considered as brethren, and to be removable for just cause: they had also the nomination of sixty at least of the sick, infirm and impotent poor of both sexes, of the city of Waterford ; and all those persons, thus elected, to- gether with the master, were to be a corporation for ever. They were to be allowed to possess land to the value of £100 per annum and no more. " And further," it is added, " of our more abun- *' dant grace, we give " certain possessions for the support of said master, brethren and poor, " in " order that they may pray for our prosperity " while we live, and for our souls when we shall *' depart this life, and for the souls of all our pro- " genitors, and for the prosperity of the said " hospital, and for the soul of Patrick Walsh, *' and for the prosperity of Catherine Sherlock " his wife, and for her soul, and for the souls of " all the faithful." They were also permitted to enjoy the offerings of all persons residing within the precincts of the late monastery ; to bury within the church or cemetery, and to administer all kinds of sacraments. By the original patent, the elec- tion of a master is vested in the heirs of Patrick CITY OF WATERFORD. 191 Walsh, with the consent of the mayor, bailiffs and four senior common-council-men, for the time being. Queen Elizabeth, by patent dated 26th June, 24th year of her reign, confirmed the former grants. The exterior of this hospital consists of a shabby modern front, built against the ancient monastery, without any regard to architectural beauty, or even regularity of appearance. Over the en- trance is the following — " The Holy Ghost Hos- pital, founded by Patrick Walsh in 1545, and was repaired and enlarged in 1741 and 1743, by William Paul and Simon John Newport, Esqrs. Mayors. Simon Newport, Master." And on a tablet over the entrance to the ceme- tery — " Thomas Smith, Alderman, Master of the Holy Gost Hospitell, 1718." On each side of the entrance, two flights of steep stone stairs conduct to the apartments of the hospital, which are situated over the cemetery of the Franciscan monastery. On the right hand is a long narrow room, lighted from above, having beds partitioned off the sides, throughout its whole extent : this, and an inner chamber, raised a few feet above the exterior apartment, occupy one wing of the building. The upper j)arts of two gothic arches terminate these rooms and give them a singular appearance. In this place are some curious ancient images and a font for holy 192 TOPOGUAPIIY AND ANTTQUITIES water, which stood in the chapel of the monas- tery. This font, which appears to have been fixed in the wall, has on it the coat of arms of the Walsh family, on each side of which are the names, Jacobus White, Helen Walsh, and, under- neath, the date 1426. The other wing of th^ hos- pital consists of one long room, partitioned off with beds like the former : at the extreme end is an altar decorated with some curious ancient images ; this is the chapel of the hospital in which mass is regularly celebrated, in compliance with the directions of the founder. The figures over the altar are intended to rcr present the Creator, holding a world in his hand, the Saviour in the centre, and on the left, St. Patrick, the favourite saint of Ireland. Higher up is the figure of John the Baptist. On a small table in the same room are representations of the decapitated head of John the Baptist and some grotesque ancient figures. There are sixty poor assisted by this charity, all of them females. The property of the charity is in the hands of nineteen leaseholders : the earliest lease is dated in 1791. — By a return presented to Parliament in 1811, it appears that the old yearly rents had risen from f 76 : 12 : 6 to £355 : 19 : 6 ; but still the funds are represented as in a very deranged state, owing in a great measure to debts formerly incurred — the arrears of rent remaining due at that period being £448 : : 9|. — The present CITY OF WATERFORD. 193 income is about £385 per annum. An allowance of £12 a year is granted to a clergyman, who is also overseer : the master has the same allowance as he had two hundred years ago — £6: 13: 4; the clerk, £2 per annum. House of Industry. This house was erected in the year 1779, at an expense of £1500. It is under the management of a general board of governors, the Bishop of -Waterford president; and- by the Acts 11th and 12th Geo. III. is formed into a corporation, under the denomination of the '* President and Assistants instituted for the Relief of the Poor, and for punishing Vagabonds and Sturdy Beg- gars, for the County and .County of the City of Waterford." A general meeting of the corporation is held on the first Thursday of every month, and oftener if necessary, for the purpose of examining such va- grants and other improper persons as may have been sent into the house during the preceding month, by committals from different members of the corporation ; and who either confirm the com- mittals of such persons, or discharge them, if they are found to be irregularly committed, or if they give security to behave better for the future, or, if strangers, they promise to go to their native places, and be no longer troublesome to the city. The business of these meetings is also to examine 194 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. such paupers as present themselves for admission, and select such as, from the dread pre-eminence of old age, poverty or infirmity, are best entitled to be admitted ; and to make such rules, orders, and regulations for the government of the house, as from time to time may be necessary. Subordinate to the monthly meeting there is a regulating committee, composed of nine gover- nors, (or members of the corporation,) appointed for one year, who meet once a week, and to whom is confided the whole management of the institu- tion: they order necessary repairs, see that the directions of the monthly boards are carried into execution, inspect the clothing of the inmates, and, where wanted, direct new clothing to be supplied, examine the weekly accounts of the superintendent, give orders on the treasurer for payment of bills, or for the current expenses of the establishment, and direct the purchase of ne- cessary articles in proper season. Each member of the committee takes his turn to be visitor of the house for one week. The visitor is expected to attend every day, and minutely inspect the entire house, see that it is sufficiently clean and well ventilated, and report, in a book kept for the purpose, on the general appearance of the house, and whatever he may think deserving of observa- tion. One of the governors of the charity is appointed treasurer for one year. There are also two emi- CITY OF WATERFORD. 195 nent physicians who attend the house : two cler- gymen (one of the Protestant and the other of the Roman Catholic persuasion) attend on Sundays and holydays, and visit the sick at all times when requisite. And all these gentlemen act without any other recompense than the gratification of their own benevolent feelings, which prompts them to the exercise of works of charity. An apothecary is paid, to supply the charity with medicine, and to give daily attendance. There are also a superintendent and two house- keepers, who reside in the establishment, and on whom the subordinate duties of directing the concerns of the charity more immediately devolve. Numbers m the house, 11th of February, 1824. Infirm Poor, admitted on petition 201 Vagrants --------20 Lunatics and Idiots ----- 79 Prostitutes ------ 33 Children -------- 2 Total 335 On a stone tablet on the front of the house, over the hall door, is the following inscription : FOR THE PROMOTING INDUSTRY, AND PUNISHING VAGRANTS, THIS HOUSE WAS ERFXiJTED, FN PURSUANCE OF THE ACT OF PARLlAilKXT, Mil H THE AID OF SEVERAL SUBSCRIPTIONS FROM THE NOBLEMEN AND 196 TOPO(;UAPlIY AND ANTIQUITIES, GENTLEMEN OF THIS CITY AND NEIGHBOURHOOD, AND WAS OPENED IN THE YEAH 1779. SIMON NEWPORT, ESQ. MAYOR. THOMAS PRICE, ESQ. ) (•SHERIFFS. SAMUEL KING, ESQ. ) JOHN ROBERTS, ARCHITECT. The inmates are employed (such as are able) in cooking, washing-, cleaning the house, &c. ; some in preparing clothing, as tailors, weavers, shoe- makers, and flax spinners ; others in spinning wool and doubling and twisting worsted for hire : they are allowed one-third of their earnings, as a stimu- lus to their exertions. A school has recently been established for the improvement of the prostitutes, about twelve of whom are receiving instruction in reading and writing: they are attended two days in the week, for two hours each day, by a few benevo- lent ladies, who devote their time for the purpose, and from whose care and exertions much good is expected to result. The institution has derived great benefit from the introduction of a tread-mill; previously to which, the house had no terror for vagrants and prostitutes, who were frequently confined at their own desire. Fever Hospital. An hospital, for the reception of persons af- ^flicted with contagious fever, was established CITY OF WATERFORD. 197 here in 1799. This was the first institution of the kind in Ireland, and the second in the empire. Previous to the existence of this charity, the poor, residing in crowded and confined parts of the city, suffered severely from fever, and it is well ascertained, that many streets, lanes, and lodging houses were, for many years, never entirely free from it. Struck with the fatal effects of this dangerous malady, some benevolent individuals exerted themselves to restrain its progress, and from a very small beginning raised this charity to its present extent and importance. A small house, called the turret, on John's Hill, was first used as a fever hospital ; and when the funds increased, the present building, capable of accommodating 200 persons, was erected on its site. During the prevalence of fever in 1816 and 1817 there were frequently 500 patients in the hospital. The average number of persons in fever, even during the most healthy seasons, varies from twenty to fifty. The Waterford Fever Hospital is an admirably conducted establishment, possessing every requi- site which the ingenuity of man can devise, as likely to contribute to the comfort and recovery of its unhappy inmates. The Charitable Loan, a charity which has since, been extended to different parts of the country, was originally established in Waterford by Arch- 198 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. deacon Fleury and the late Mr. Hobbs, on the 5th of January, 1768; and out of a capital of a few hundred pounds (which arose from the pro- ducfe of a little harmonic society) has, since its commencement, lent to 14,173 persons the sum of £32,669 : I5s. Id. interest free. It is to be regretted that the funds of this cha- rity do not admit of its affording assistance to a greater number of persons than the few now on the list; and were it not for the praiseworthy exertions of the late Mr. Hobbs, the industrious poor of Waterford would not now have even this small fund to resort to in time of need. When it is considered how extensively bene- ficial a charity of this description might be in such a country as Ireland, where the smallest sums of money may, by management, be ren- dered available to the greatest emergencies, it is to be hoped the citizens of Waterford will not permit a charity to die away which they may look upon as one of their own creating. A Dispeiuary was established in Waterford in the year 1786, for the purpose of affording to the sick poor of the city medicine and medical ad- vice. For a short period, previous to the erection of the Fever Hospital, a few patients were received into this institution. At the present time, all who are recommended by governors receive medicine and medical advice CITY OF WATERFORD. 199 at the Dispensary ; or, if unable to attend there, at their own houses, where they are furnished with such other charitable assistance as their necessities may require. This charity has been of incalculable benefit to the poor, relieving annually about 5500 patients, at the comparatively trifling expense of £250 per year. The income arises from subscriptions, and from an annual presentment of the city grand jury, who are empowered, by act of parliament, to pre- sent a sum equal to the amount of the subscrip- tions received. A donation of ten guineas, or an annual pay- ment of one guinea, constitutes a governor. The physicians and surgeons afford their assistance gratuitously. The Leper Hospital was founded by King John, in the early part of the thirteenth century. It has been stated that it was established by an in- dividual of the name of Power, but this is evi- dently a mistake, and one which probably origi- nated from the circumstance of a particular ward of the hospital, which was set apart for incurables, having been supported by the Waterford family, one of whose ancestors left a sum of money to be appropriated to that purpose. The foundation of this hospital has been at- 200 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. tributed to the following circumstance: — The- king's sons, during the time they remained at Lismore, were so feasted with the fine salmon and cider of that place, that they lived almost entirely on them, which caused eruptions to break out on their bodies, supposed to be the leprosy; of which the king being informed founded the Hospital for persons labouring under leperous complaints, and granted a charter of incorporation by the name of the Master, Brethren, and Sisters of the Leper House of St. Stephen's, in the city of Waterford. He also granted the Corporation a Seal, which the master of the hospital holds, and with which he seals the leases of the lands, &c. of the hospi- tal, which leases he is empowered to make, with the consent of the brethren and sisters of the hospital. The King endowed the hospital with the Leper House, and several other holdings in St. Stephen's parish, and with the oblations, obventions, offer- ings, &c. of the said parish. Also with lands at Poleberry, without John's-gate, (which gate was formerly considered the boundary of the hospital,) and also the lands of Leperstown, in the barony of Gaultier. In the middle of the last century, when leprosy had become of very rare occurrence in Ireland, the corporation of Waterford, on the grounds that the funds were intended solely for lepers. CITY OF WATERFORD. 201 shut up the house. The impropriety of this mea- sure being- perceived, the Rev. Doctor Downes, an individual since well known for his extended charities, instituted legal proceedings, and at length obtained a decree requiring the corpora- tion to employ the funds of the charity in reliev- ing the sick and maimed poor. The first appro- priation of the income was for the relief of fifty indigent persons, who received an annual allow- ance. An infirmary was subsequently established for their reception, and the property afterwards increasing, a magnificent hospital was erected in the suburbs of the city, capable of accommoda- ting four or five hundred persons. The master of the hospital is appointed by the corporation, to whom he is accountable, and re- movable at the pleasure of that body ; as are also the medical attendants as well as the housekeeper and inferior attendants, who are appointed by the master, subject to the controul of the corpo- ration. The rent-roll of the hospital is about £1300 — the actual receipts about £600; — out of which they have to pay for salaries, wages and subsist- ence, about £280 per annum. The physician and surgeon have £60 a year each. The number of patients varies from twenty to thirty-four. Besides the charitable institutions already enu- merated, there arc several otlicrs in Waterford which are equally beneficial. Tlic Li/li/^-ifi Clia- () 202 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. ritii relieves poor women at their own houses, sii])plies them with medicine and medical advice, and such articles as their situation may particu- larly require. Of late years the funds have be- come totally inadequate to relieve one fourth of the persons applying for assistance. The object of the Strangers Friend Society is to relieve persons labouring under temporary distress, and to advance money to carry them to their re- spective places of abode. There are two Associations for the Relief of Des- titute Orphan Children: one for Roman Catholics, and the other for Protestants ; both on the same plan. The Protestant Orphan House was esta- blished in the year 1818. A new school-house has recently been erected, calculated for the re- ception of fifty children. It is situated within a mile of the city, at a place called Gaul's Rock, on a piece of ground the property of John Fitz- gerald, Esq., who very liberally made a gift of it to the association. A donation of £100 has also been granted by the late Sir Francis Hassard to- wards the expense of the building. There are at present twenty-eight children in the asylum : the expenditure for the building and other extra demands have hitherto prevented the association from extending the charity to the number for which the building is calculated. There are also Abns-houses for the relief of Roman Catholics. A Mendiciti/ Society was established in Water- CITY OF WATERFORD. 203 ford in the year 1820. Previous to this period, the streets were infested with beggars, the greater part of whom were strangers to the city. This nuisance has been abated in a great measure by the exertions of the association, who expended the first year upwards of £1000; and, within the short period of three years, afforded relief to 1300 individuals. At present there are about two hun- dred on the books. TRADE AND COMMERCE. We are indebted to two of our chief magistrates for a considerable improvement in the trade of Waterford, According to an ancient MS. " In 1695, when Richard Christmas, Esq. was mayor, he exerted himself very much, in conjunction with John Mason, Esq. in advancing the interests of the citizens. One measure was resorted to which had a very beneficial effect — admitting traders of all descriptions, and from all parts, to^ the freedom of the city : this was determined on by two separate acts of Council, dated the 1 1 tli September, 1704, and 2Gth February, 1705. In consequence of this encouragement, several mer- chants from Italy, Spain, France, Portugal, Hol- land, and elsewhere, came and settled in Water- ford ; houses were repaired, ships built, trade began to flourish." These exertions were followed up by Mr. Ma- o2 204 TOPOGUyVPIiy AND ANTIQUITIES. son, on his succeeding to the mayoralty, in 1690. To use the words of the same manuscript — " the houses were in ruins, the streets uneven, full of rubbish and dunghills; — he caused those nui- sances to be removed — the high roads leading to the city to be levelled and new paved, and bridges made in many places of the said roads, to carry off the sloughs and superfluous waters, insomuch (the writer continues) that they were a pattern for the whole kingdom." Waterford has never been very celebrated for its manufactures. In early times, when agriculture was much neglected, trading in cattle was the staple commodity — much attention was likewise paid to the butter business, and in both these articles a brisk trade was carried on, not only with the English settlements, but also with several of the ports of Spain. Of late years, however, owing to the West Indies getting their live stock from America, the Irish trade in that line has considerably decreased. Cheese, made from skimmed milk, and called MullaJiavni, was formerly an article of commerce in Waterford, and was exported in large quanti- ties, but it was of such a hard substance that it required a hatchet to cut it. Salt was another article of trade in Waterford, and was made in considerable quantities. The first salt-house was established in William-street, by the patentee and the late John Greene, Esq. of Greeneville. CITY OF WATERFORD. 205 There was also in the city a manufacture of woad, a material used by dyers ; but this has long been discontinued. Waterford was also famous for a narrow woollen-stuff, which was circulated all over Ireland, and a considerable quantity exported to other countries. The wea- vers of this article had a hall, which also answered for an inn : it was situated in Michael-street, oppo- site to New-street, and had for its sign a spinning wheel. The persons known by the name of ham- mer-men had also their hall ; and it is not more than a few years ago since their plate was sold. This city has also been celebrated for making red or smoked sprats, which at one period were exported in large quantities. It has been remark- ed, that they were generally manufactured by shoemakers, who pretended that the paring of the leather gave them a peculiar flavour. A considerable trade was carried on by the late Thomas Wyse, Esq. who attempted the manufac- ture of articles of various descriptions, such as japan-ware, all kinds of tools and articles of cut- lery. That gentleman had also a fine corn- mill at the Manor, and also a wind-mill, the walls of which remain to this day : he received so many premiums from parliament that he named a street after that assembly. The linen manufacture was introduced into Waterford by a family of the name of Smith, who brouglit with them a number of weavers from tlie north of Ireland. They had a factory and two 20G TOPOGUAPIIY AND ANTIQUITIES. bleach greens — one at Ballytruckle, for thread — the other at a small place, called Smith Vale, about three miles from Waterford, for linen. The thread manufactured here was celebrated all over Ireland ; nevertheless the concern failed, and there is now no trace of it. A glass-house for manufacturing bottles was situate nearly opposite Ballycarvet : this also has gone to decay. A glass manufactory, of a supe- rior description, was established in Waterford, in 1783, by the Messrs. Penrose. It is now con- ducted by Messrs. Gatchell and Co. who have a large export trade, particularly to America : the number of persons employed average seventy weekly. There were two distilleries formerly in this city ; the first established by Messrs. Dobbs and Ilobbs, the second by Messrs. Ramsay and Bell. At present there is not a single distillery in Water- ford, with the exception of a rectifying one, on a small scale, in Thomas-street. The brewers of Waterford have brought the manufacture of beer and porter to such perfection, as to supersede the necessity of any importation from England. There is a starch and blue manufactory here, established by the Messrs. Whites ; and two iron founderies. Until very recently, there was also an extensive manufacture of glue, which was ex- ported in large quantities to England. Waterford has for many years been much distin- CITY OF WATEllFOllD. 207 guished for the extent of its exports in the articles of provisions. These amounted, in 1813, to no less a sum than £2,200,454 : 16 : 0. The average for the last few years scarcely exceeds one mil- lion and a half sterling ; but the decrease is attri- butable more to a falling off in the value of the articles, than to a reduction in the quantity exported. It is to be regretted that there should be such a vv^ant of capital in Waterford, where there is so wide a field for speculation, and where English capitalists might lay out their money with advan- tage to themselves and benefit to the country. Notwithstanding the extensive export trade of the city and port of Waterford, it is not a little remarkable, that the merchants and traders have never invested property to any amount in shipping. British vessels have been mostly em- ployed in conveying our produce to England and other parts, and bringing us the usual imports, a circumstance which is much to be regretted: for had the trade, or even a considerable part of it, been carried on by our own ships, the build- ing of such vessels and their outfit in this port, would have opened new sources of industry, and by keeping at home the immense sums that have from time to time been paid to strangers, for freights, the benefits resulting from such a rational system would have been incalculable. The primary cause for not building and repair- ing vessels in Waterford, was the want of proper 208 TOPOCnJAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. accommodation : for until within these four years, this port hiboured under the great disadvantage of being one of the worst in Ireland, in that re- spect, so much so, that only dire necessity caused any vessels to be repaired here. These great disadvantages have been com- pletely removed by the spirited exertions of Mr. White, whose establishment opposite the city bids fair to be one of the most complete in Ireland. By a simple combination of wheels, and an in- clined-plane, vessels of almost any size can with the greatest facility be drawn completely out of the water; — and, by that means, can be examined and repaired with the greatest ease imaginable. The vessels which have been built at this esta- blishment are much admired for beauty of model and soundness of workmanship ; — and in justice it must be added, that there seems every conveni- ence in the concern, which an owner or master of a vessel can desire. NEWSPAPERS. The earliest newspaper known to have been printed in Waterford, was entitled " The Water- ford Flying Post, containing the most material News, both Foreign and Domestick." It was printed on a sheet of common writing paper, the head orna- CITY OF WATERFORD. 209 mented with the Royal Arms and those of the city of Waterford. One number, dated Thursday, August 21st, 1729, is still in existence: it has neither number nor price affixed to it, but the latter is supposed to have been one halfpenny, from the circumstance of a receipt having been seen for a shilling, as a quarter's subscription to a paper published twice a week, at a much later period. In November, 1766, '* The Waterford Journal" was established by Esther Crawley and Son, and sold at the Euclid's Head, in Peter-street, at the moderate price of one halfpenny. It was published twice a week, contained three columns in each page, and was continued for at least six years. Ramsay's Waterford Chronicle was in exist- ence at this period. A second series of it was commenced in 1769: it contained three columns, and cost one shilling a quarter. In 1778 a larger paper was used, containing four columns — the price of this was three halfpence a number. Ten years afterwards the price was two-pence half- penny; it was only two-pence in 1791 : in 1800 it was four-pence ; ever since it has been five- pence. There were one or two other papers published in Waterford, of which very little is known. One was " The Waterford Advertizer," of which Mr. William Murphy was the proprietor. This 210 TOPOCUAPHY AND ANTIQUITIKS, was succeeded by " The Shamrock,^' established by Dr. Hearn : The ** Waterford Mirror" was commenced in 1801. A weekly newspaper was started a few years ago, but was abandoned. At present there are three newspapers in Waterford : the Chro/iicle, the Mirror, and the Mail. It would appear by a recent popular publica- tion, that there were only three newspapers in Ireland, in the year 1782 ; but this must evidently be a mistake, as there were two in Waterford as early as 1770, and it cannot be supposed tliat there was only one newspaper in all the other towns in Ireland. The first newspaper in this country was commenced in the year 1641, under the title of " Warranted tidings from Ireland" GOVERNMENT OF THE CITY. Before entering into an account of the charters which have at various times been granted to the city of Waterford, (a subject on which, at present, very little is known,) it may be as well to oifer a few general remarks relating to the government of the city as at present constituted ; merely pre- mising, that any rights or privileges that have been granted to the citizens by the early charters, remain in force at the present time. Like most other towns, the government of this city is incorporated under the denomination of the CITY OF WATERFORD. 211 mayor, sheriffs, and citizens. The corporation consists of a mayor, two sheriffs, a recorder, eighteen aldermen, and nineteen assistants Qr common-council men; and the whole together are named the common-council of the city. The mayor is selected out of the aldermen ; and the sheriffs from amongst the assistants. There are also — a sword-bearer, who is authorized to carry a sword of state before the mayor, unless the king or his heirs be present ; four Serjeants at mace ; a public notary ; a coroner ; clerk of the crown and peace ; town clerk, &c. By the present charter of Charles I., the mayor and recorder may hold a court of record twice a week, for actions of debt, &c. to any amount; and a court-leet twice a year. The mayor, recorder, and four of the senior aldermen, are empowered by this charter to be justices of gaol delivery, and to determine all felonies and other offences com- mitted in the city and liberties, treason alone ex- cepted. They have power to hold an admiralty court within the limits of the harbour, and are not to be disturbed therein by any other admiralty court in England or Ireland. They may also hold a court of orphans once a week, with the same power as that of the city of London ; and can appoint a seneschal, who may hold a court of pye- powder. In cases of absence or sickness, the chief magis- trate may ajjpoint a deputy from amongst the 212 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. aldermen ; and in all cases of election by the council, the mayor must be one of the majority. The charter expressly mentions that no suit once commenced in the mayor's court shall be removed before it is determined. All returns of assize, precepts, bills and warrants are to be made by the mayor and corporation. The mayor and recorder, with the four senior aldermen, are jus- tices of the peace within the liberties and also for the county of Waterford ; but are not, as such, to proceed to the trial of any treason, felony, Sec, to the loss of life or limb, which the charter autho- rizes them to do in the city. The mayor and council have power to tax the citizens, towards defraying any necessary expense. He and the town-clerk may take cognizance of debts, according to the form of statute-merchant and the statute of Acton-Burnel. The mayor is conservator of the waters, and may punish accord- ing to the statute in that case provided. Without his license, no ship is to load or unload in any other part of the harbour but at the quay of Waterford; those of the burgesses of New Ross the county of Wexford, excepted. The mayor and council may make a guild in all respects similar to that of the city of Bristol; no guild or fraternity to make by-laws without a license from the mayor. The Charters of Waterford form a subject of an important nature, and, independent of the rights and privileges which they confer, they con- CITY OF WATERFORD. 213 tain some curious particulars relating to the early periods at which they were granted. Of these valuable documents, the only one of which even the corporation of Waterford has any knowledge, is the charter of Charles I., under which the city is at present governed : all the other documents prior to the year 1680 were destroyed by fire, and no steps have since been taken to supply their place. The following is a list of all the charters that have been granted to the city of Waterford, from the earliest period to the present time. Dated at Anno Regni A. D. John Marlebridge - S July - - 7 1205 Dublin 8 Nov. 9 - 1207 Henry III. - ^V()odstocke - 16 June 16 - 1231 Westminster - 14 Nov. - 30 1245 do. - - 4 Aug. 45 - 1260 Edward II. - Langley - 16 June 2 1308 Edward III. - Westminster - 14 Nov. 30 - 1356 do. - - 24 Feb. - 38 - 1364 Richard II. - do. - 26 Way 3 - 1379 Henry IV. Heniy V. do. - 6 May - 1 - 1413 1 Dublin - l.T Jan. - 3 1415 Henry VI. - Westminster - 20 March 5 - 1426 do. 1 March 20 1441 do. - 8 April - 26 1447 Edward IV. - do. - 20 Nov, - 1 1461 Richard III. . - 25 Marcli 1 1483 - - 2 ]41i4 Henry VII. - Westminster - 14 May 2 1486 do. . I'J May 3 - 1487 Henry VIII. do. - - 12 Sept. 2 - 1510 Edward VI. - do. - 17 A[)ril 2 - 1548 Philip and ftlary do. 2 June 2(1 & 3d - 1554-5 Elizabeth - Westminster - 8 Feb. - 11 1568 . Norhambury - 16 July 16 1573 Westminster - 12 March 26 1.582 James I. Dublin - 10 July 7 1609 Charles I. Westminster - 26 May U 1626 . do. - - ly Feb. 7 J 6.51 James II. - 22 March 4 1688 214 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. The charter of John, as being the earliest, is undoubtedly the most important. It fixes the exact bounds of the city as decided by the oaths of twelve men living within the walls and twelve living without, in compliance with a former pre- cept of Henry II. Connected with the tenures of the city, it gives up all fines, amercements and redemptions of contempt to the citizens, with some peculiar regulations. In cases of differences or disputes between the citizens, it directs that there be no duels, but that the point in question should be decided by the verdict of twelve men. By this charter a hundred court was to be held twice a week, on Mondays and Fridays, and as much oftener as might be necessary : it also regu- lated the proceedings in this court, and the rights attached to it. No citizen was to be impleaded for lands which did not pertain to the hundred. Twelve of the principal citizens, and others spe- cially appointed, were to elect annually a provost on the day of the festival of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross, who, on his being duly sworn, was to have cognition of all pleas in the hundred of the city, and the citizens were to have cognizance of all causes tried before the said provost. It also orders, that no person should be judged touching any money except according to the hundred of the city. Among the other privileges contained in this charter, the citizens were to have liberty to give CITY OF WATERFORD. 215 their children in marriage to foreign merchants without obtaining the permission of their lords. They were to have the same " reasonable Guilds" as the burgesses of Bristol ; to be free from pon- tage, murage, &c. This charter likewise grants to them all the tenures within and without the walls of the city, to be disposed of at their pleasure in messuages, &c. — to be held by burgage tenure, by reasonable payment, to wit, ten marks which they pay within the walls of the city. It also grants that each person may erect buildings on the banks of the river, provided they do not injure the city or town ; that the citizens should have all lands and waste places to be held and built on at their plea- sure ; and leave was also granted to them to sell wholesale and retail to Irish enemies and English rebels, as well in peace as in war. Neither the Templars nor the Hospitallers were to have any maintenance or dwelling in the city, except one within the prescribed bounds ; nor was any foreign merchant to purchase within the city of Waterford any piece of merchandize from any person but a citizen ; and, as an encourage- men to trade, the citizens had permission to grant " safe conducts" to all rebels and felons who came there for that purpose. No person was to be bailiff of the city unless he held of the king in capitc. Justices were expressly commanded not to harass the citizens. The charters of Henry III. conhrm the two 21G TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. former charters, with the exception that the hun- dred court should be held only once a week. By these charters, the citizens were to have all the tenures within and without the walls, to be disposed of at their pleasure, by the assembly or common council of the city. They were to have the election of the mai/or, who was to be sworn before his predecessor in office and before the council of the city assembled in the Guildhall. There was to be no assize or gaol delivery by barons of the King's Bench without the mayor being present ; and in case the barons were unable to attend, then the mayor and two or three of the more worthy and discreet citizens, and one or two lawyers might deliver the gaols. There was to be a Guildhall and also a prison with wards in which to confine robbers and felons, apart from the other citizens : liberty was also granted to choose a coroner from amongst the citizens. It was also ordered that there be in the city one common seal, according to the form of the statute of Acton-Burnel, of which seal, the greater part should be in the hands of the mayor or guardian of the city, and the smaller part, in the hands of the clerk ; both parties to affix their respective parts of the seal in confirmation of certain deeds. The charters of Edward II. and Edward III., Richard II., Henry IV. and Henry V., confirm the former charters, the principal parts of which, are quoted at some length. Edward the Third's charters provide that no mayor, either in war or CITY or WATERFORD. 217 in peace, should compel any of the citizens to go out in a warlike manner against his own will; but that they might, of their own accord, go forth with flying colours, &:c. against rebels. The mayor, &c. may make convenient rules and regu- lations, with the consent of the council and citizens in their guilds or assemblies. Henry the Sixth's charters recite that, whereas the mayor and citizens of Waterford had declared to him, that many rebels, malefactors and plun- derers, &c. in the counties of Kilkenny, Tipperary, Wexford and Waterford, had assembled an armed force, perpetrated sundry murders, robberies and other intolerable crimes ; the mayor, council and their successors, might collect an armed force and march or ride with horsemen and footmen and with standards in martial array, at such times as they might think proper ; and might plunder, burn and destroy their enemies and all those aiding and assisting them. The charter of Edward IV. contains a recital of all the previous charters. '' And whereas some grants and immunities contained in former charters are not clearly expressed ; these being represented to us, and knowing that the city of Waterford has in front four hostile counties, Waterford, Kilkenny, Tipperary, and Wexford : we, willing to show our affection to the citizens, t James Geddes, Lieut. William Gillespie, Ensign Andreiu Ross, Ensign Rowland F. Hill, Surgeon James Hagan, Assistant Surgeon Lambe, Quart.-Mast. William Baird, AGE. 19 19 19 30 26 ,38 Of His Majesty's 2cl Battalion 59th Foot, Who perished in tlie Bay of Tramore, On the oOth day of January, 181(), By the wreck of the Sea-Horse Transport. To their revered Memories This testimonial is erected by Lieut. Colonel Austin, Lieut. Colonel Hoysted, And the other surviving Officers of the Battalion; Also a Monument at the Church of Tramore. Returning to their native Land, Where they looked for solace and repose, After all the toils and dangers they had endvu'ed, For the security of the British Empire, And the deliverance of Europe, Their lives were suddenly cut short By the awful dispensation Of an all-wise but inscrutable Providence : But the memory of those gallant achievements, In which they bore so distinguished a part. Under the guidance of the ILLUSTRIOUS WELLINGTON, Will never be forgotten, but shall continue to illuminate The historic page, and animate the hearts of Britons To the most remote period of time. COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 251 In the burying-groimd of the new parish church in the village of Tramore, a monument was erected by the surviving officers. The principal circum- stances of the melancholy ev ent are recorded in the following words : On the south side — LUGO, 6th 8f 1th of January, 1809. CORUNNA, \6th of January, 1809. WALCHEREN, August, 1809. This Monument was erected by Lieut. Colonel Austin, Lieut. Colonel Hoysted, and the other surviving Officers of the 2d Battalion of His Majesty's 59tli Regiment, as a testimonial of their profound sorrow for the loss of their gallant Brother Officers, who perished by the wreck of the Sea-Horse Transport, in the bay of Tramore, on the 30th day of January, 1816; and as a tribute to the heroic and social virtues which adorned their short but useful lives. N. B, The Mausoleum at Drumcannon Churchyard. On the east — VITTORIA, 2UtofJune, 1813. ST. SEBASTIAN, 31.?^ of August, 1813. BIDASSOA, 7th of October, 1813. On the 30th day of January, 181(5, the Sea-IIorse Transport, Captain Gibbs, was wrecked in Tramore bay ; upon which melancholy occasion, K 2 252 TOTOGRAPIIV AND ANTIQUITIES. 12 Officers and 204 Non-Comniissioned Officers & Privates of His Majesty's 2d Battalion 59th Regiment, together with Lieut. Allen, R.N. 15 Sailors, and 71 Women and Children, perished within a mile of the shore. Of the hapless inmates of this ill-fated vessel, only 4 Officers, and 2G Soldiers and Seamen were providentially rescued from the raging Ocean ! On the north — NIVELLE, 10th of November, 1813. NIEVE, 9th, 10th, nth, ^ 12th of December, 1813. BAYONNE, February Sf March, 1814. SACRED TO THE MEMORY OF Major Charles Douglas, Lieut. William Gillespie, Captain James Macgregor, Ensign Andrew Ross, Lieut. & Adj. Abraham Dent, Ensign Rowland F. Hill, Lieutenant William Veall, Surgeon James Hagan, Lieutenant Robert Scott, Assist.SurgeonLAMBE and Lieutenant James Geddes, Quarter-MasterW.BAiRD, Of the 2d Bat. 59th Regt. who were lost by the wreck of the Sea-Horse Transport. Your heroic deeds. Brave Warriors ! will never be erased from the page of history : and though cypress instead of laurels encircle your temples, your ceno- taph is erected in the bosoms of your Countrymen. On the west — WATERLOO, ISthofJune, 1815. CAMBRAY, 2ith of June, 1815. SURRENDER OF PARIS, 6th of July, 1815. COUXTY OF WATERFORD. 253 The 2cl Battalion of the 59th Regiment commenced their Mihtary Career in the Autumn of 1808, when they accompanied Sir David Baird to Corunna, and were conspicuously brave in the arduous campaign under Lieut. General Sir John Moore. They partook of the fate of the Expedition to Walcheren: They also bore a distinguished part in the principal Actions that were fought on the Peninsula inl813&1814, under the command of THE ILLUSTRIOUS WELLINGTON; and finally participated in the renown of the ever-memorable day of Waterloo, and the second surrender of the French Capital. A considerable number of soldiers were inter- red in the sand, at the distance of a hundred yards from the sea : it was in agitation to erect a mo- nument over their remains, but this has not been accomplished. The bay of Tramore, justly described in charts as " notorious for shipwrecks," has at length en- gaged the attention of scientific and practical men ; and through them, of the public bodies, whose duty it is to improve the navigation of our coasts. A benevolent and spirited individual,* with much labour and at some expense, has made a survey and measurement of the bay ; and has sug- gested improvements, which, it is to be hoped, will be readily adopted by the ])ro})er authorities. These improvements consist in the formation * W. Wolscley, Emj. Adiiiinil lA the IJliie. 254 TOPOGRATIIV AND ANTIQUITIES. of two secure harbours, one at the western and the other at the eastern side of the bay : the har- bours to be formed by the erection of small piers, projected from the extremities of two fishing coves within the entrance of the bay. The most obvi- ous advantages arising from such works would be these : fishing boats could sail to and return from the Nymph-bank, during the continuance of the prevailing winds ; and the bay being only al)out two miles distant from the inshore fishing ground, all engaged in such pursuits would have a secure retreat in stormy weather, and could, without the loss of time now necessarily incurred, return to sea when the danger was over. These ports would be stopping places for coasters, and would much benefit the agriculture of the country by affording facilities to the landing of lime and coals : but the principal and paramount advantage would be the security which they would give to vessels em- bayed within this dangerous place ; and which, in the existing circumstances, have not a shadow of safety. In the numberless cases of shipwreck which have occurred here, the loss of life has been invariably attributable to the want of a harbour, into which to run the vessel. In great national concerns, where commerce and human life are concerned, expense should not be too narrowly considered — such has not been, nor ever will be, the conduct of the government : in the present case, the probable expenditure is insignificant. COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 255 the estimate of the proposed works not exceeding ten thousand pounds. To enter further into this matter would be unsuitable to the present work ; the arrangements and detail belong altogether to professional men. The land in the vicinity of Tramore, from its exposure to the sea breeze, has always been un- propitious to the growth of trees. The face of the country exhibits little improvement in this respect, during the last century ; and were it not for the increase of tillage occasioned by the war prices, the coast to the westward would still pre- sent a wild and uncultivated appearance. Amongst the many advantages which the spirit of geological research has conferred upon this part of Ireland, perhaps the most generally use- ful is the discovery of limestone, on the coast of the barony of Middlethird, at a place which had hitherto been considered destitute of this valuable mineral. This stone is found in the immediate vi- cinity of the village of Tramore, at a place called the Lady's Cove, where it is embedded in indu- rated clay slate. The rocks on both sides of the limestone effervesce with acids, and hence it ap- pears that they contain some portion of calcare- ous matter, which is probably the cause of their exhibiting a tabular structure. Sulphurct of iron is found crystallized and granular, in small veins running through limestone next the indurated 256 TOPOORAT'IIY AND ANTIQUITIES. clay slate; it is also found in the alluvial matter. On examining some of the clay which is situated over these rocks, calcareous matter was disco- vered to be a chief ingredient, and hence it ap- pears, that all the substances, both rocks and earth, partake largely of the nature of limestone. The limestone is of the primitive kind, and is capa- ble of receiving a very fine polish : it is, however, chiefly valuable for agricultural purposes, and in this point of view that the discovery may be con- sidered a public benefit. Arrangements are already made for the erection of lime-kilns, which must tend immediately to increase the value of land in this neighbourhood ; for lime, though perhaps used for ages as manure, is still found beneficial to the soil of this country, which, instead of being exhausted by its stimula- ting qualities, is found to increase in fertility after repeated applications. Previous to this discovery, limestone was not known to occur nearer to Tramore than eight or nine miles. Within a short distance of the village, are the ruins of the castle of Cullen, formerly a place of defence, and the residence of some warlike chief- tain : an isolated rock is the foundation or ground- work of the building, which, before the general use of artillery, must have been almost impreg- nable. Tradition has preserved nothing of the COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 257 history of the place, or its inhabitants ; like many- other works of art, Cullen has outlived the memo- ry of its founders. It is generally supposed that the castles and fortified houses, the ruins of which are still to be seen in great numbers, were the work of colonists, whom the policy of the English monarchs induced to settle in Ireland. From the time of Henry II. lands were freely offered to settlers at trifling or nominal rents : some individuals of rank and consequence, who received these extensive grants, very frequently neglected to fulfil the conditions attached to them ; and in- stead of bringing over a number of followers, and affording their own personal influence and counsel, they sold their interests to the old possessors, neglected to provide for the defence of their pro- perties, and, in some instances, abandoned them altogether. Succeeding monarchs endeavoured to obviate these evils, by affixing certain conditions to the grants, in proportion to their extent. The lands to be planted were divided into three proportions ; the greatest to consist of two thou- sand English acres, the next of fifteen hundred, and the least of one thousand. The undertakers of two thousand acres were to hold of the king- in capite ; they were to build a castle and inclose a strong court-yard or bawn, and they were to l)lace upon their lands, within three years, forty- 258 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. eight able men, of English or Scottish birth : they were besides to retain six hundred acres in their own hands, and for five years, to reside constantly, or to keep such agents as should be approved of by the government. The same or similar condi- tions were attached to the smaller grants. The holders of fifteen hundred acres were required to finish a house and bawn within two years : a bawn or strong inclosure was all that was required of the third class. From the bay of Tramore to Dungarvan, there is little shelter for vessels of any description; the shore is rocky and precipitous, and offers only a few recesses or coves, precarious retreats for the boats of the fishermen. The rocks along the coast appear to have been violently disrupted, the beds being heaped irregularly, and meeting together, in the greatest confusion. Clay slate is here also the prevailing rock ; occasionally pud- ding-stone occurs, and, in the neighbourhood of Annstown, a species of green-stone. Contiguous to the coast in the parish of Icaue, there are seve- ral small islands, which are only masses of rock separated from the main land ; they are partially covered with grass, and, except to the mineral- ogist, offer nothing worthy of observation. Proceeding to the westward, a range of rocks, possessing a columnar structure, are observed jutting out into the sea ; the colour is dark, ap- proaching to black, extremely hard, and with a COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 259 faint lustre : the columns are irregular in shape and in the number of their angles, but are mostly terminated by five sides. There are several indi- cations of mineral veins, and a variety in the rock formations, exceedingly remarkable in so confined a space. The village of Annstown, distant about three miles from Tramore, is built on the v^estern side of a valley which extends from the sea to a con- siderable distance inland. There are a few^ lodg- ing houses for the accommodation of summer visitors, who are sometimes attracted by the re- tired situation ; but the want of regular markets, and the distance from Waterford, have rendered Annstown little frequented as a bathing place. A handsome church has recently been erected here. The situation and appearance of this vil- lage are striking and picturesque. With few improvements or works of art to recommend it, Annstown possesses within itself many natural beauties: amongst these may be considered, a bold and magnificent coast, stupendous rocks rising abruptly from the sea, and headlands ex- tending into the ocean and exhibiting natural arches of vast extent. To the east, the islands of Icane bound the view : the headland of Dungar- van is seen stretching away to the south-west. The prospect on the land side is chiefly remark- able for an ancient ruin, the castle of Donlsle, which stands above the ravine that extends 2C0 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. from the sea to the interior. The castle of Don- Isle, or Donhill, as it is usually called, situated about an English mile from the sea, is discernible at a considerable distance, the rock on which it is built being almost detached from the range of hills which forms one side of the ravine. As you approach the ruin by the road leading from Wa- terford to the demesne of Donlsle, the view is impressive and romantic. Having descended from the main road, through a i)lantation of -flourishing trees, the castle, a square tower of great elevation, is seen, over- hanging a river, here crossed by an antique bridge. In ancient times, it was the property of the family of Le Poer, from whom the present Marquis of Waterford is descended. So far back as 1346, this family held a distinguished rank in this county : in that year John Le Poer, and others of the same name, gave security to the Lord Justice Birmingham, at Waterford, for themselves and all others of their name in the counties of Waterford and Tipperary, for their peaceable be- haviour to the king and his ministers. The castle of Donlsle might be considered in- accessible on two sides ; and where it was liable to be approached, its defences appear to have possessed a considerable degree of artificial strength. The only vulnerable part was well defended by a strong wall and deep fosse, which inclosed a COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 2G1 court-yard of about fifty yards square: the mason work of the wall can still be traced through its whole course. After entering the court-yard, the passage to the castle was ascended by a steep flight of stone steps, which led to a gate defended by a portcullis; the arch of the gate, and the groove of the portcullis, being still discernible. You then enter into a small court-yard, which appears to have contained several out-offices be- longing to the castle, and turning to the left hand into a still smaller inclosure, of about twelve feet square, the door of the castle is at length seen. All the various approaches already mentioned are carefully defended by loop-holes and embra- sures ; and on entering the castle itself, the usual square trap-door is observed over the passage, which gave the last opportunity of defence to the besieged, and from which, in the obstinacy of despair, they poured down on the assailants large stones, boiling water, or any other means of an- noyance which the danger might suggest. The walls of the castle are still perfectly upright, not having yielded in the least to the encroachments of time : the castle, however, evidently suffered con- siderably from the violence of man, having been subjected to the force of gunpowder; but the square tower which crowns the summit, and which now can only be ascended by a ladder, the stairs having been designedly destroyed, is as perfect as if erected witliin these few years. The 2G2 Toroc.iiAPiiY and antiquities. church, which lies at the distance of about 300 yards west of the castle, and which was evidently attached to that building,, appears to have been subjected to the same barbarous violence, as the rocky firmness of the masses which formerly com- posed it, and which now lie scattered in various directions, clearly prove. In one instance, an entire staircase remains per- fect, but the wall in which it was built has been thrown a considerable distance from its original ' position : the only part of the wall which remains perfect is the arch which separated the chancel from the aisle. On digging among the ruins of this church some years ago, a statue, cut in sand- stone, and bearing on its head a coronet, was discovered: it is now to be seen, set upright against the wall at the west end of the church. A very ancient tombstone has also been dis- covered in the burying-ground ; it is without any inscription, and simply decorated with a coronet. It is supposed to have been the tomb of the Countess, who perished when the castle was taken by Cromwell. A considerable range of high land extends from the sea, through the parishes of Donlsle and Reisk. The rock is mostly pudding-stone and clay-slate, and occasionally large masses of jasper : some of the specimens are very beautiful. Along the coast the rocks are rich in minerals : lead and copper have been found at Annstown and Bon- COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 263 mahon, where mines of these substances were worked to a considerable extent, and at no very remote period. The elevation and abruptness of the coast afford some facility in discovering these minerals, veins frequently appearing where the earth has been washed away by the encroach- ments of the ocean. Various circumstances con- cur to induce the belief that mines might be advantageously worked here. The course of the veins is east and west; the ore is heavy, and has a rich appearance, and there is besides the advan- tage of water-carriage. The range of hills passing- through the parishes of Donlsle and Reisk divides into two branches in the latter parish : the inter- mediate low land is partially covered with water, which forms the lake of Ballyscanlan. The bot- tom of this lake is still thickly covered with frag- ments of trees, which were probably displaced by the water at no very remote period. After leav- ing Reisk, the high land extends to the vicinity of Waterford. At Sugar-loaf Hill, so called from its abrupt and conical appearance, there is a very noble Cromlech, or Druids' altar, the most perfect of these antiquities, which is to be found in the county. Four oblong masses of rock, elevated on their extremities, support a table-stone or altar of con- siderable magnitude, the height of which is about twenty feet. The workmanship is altogether 264 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. rude and unpretending. Within the space in- closed by the uprights or pillars, a single stone stands entirely detached from the sides and cover- ing of the altar. This relic of ancient days is situated to the south-east of the range of hills, which, through its entire course, is covered w^ith fragments of rock, varying in size from field stones to immense mountain masses. Connected with this relic, we have here an indisputable instance of the policy of those who first introduced Chris- tianity into this country ; and who, in every case, endeavoured to engraft the pure religion upon the heathen superstition which preceded it. The neighbourhood of a Celtic monument was selected as the site of a Christian church, which now in its turn affords protection to its neglected rival. The church is gone to decay, the altar remains in all its rude perfection : the combination is striking; there is something grand and romantic in these ruins of remote and dissimilar periods, which cannot fail to impress the mind with admiration, and which leaves upon it a pleasing though me- lancholy feeling. It is probable that the church, the ruins of which adjoin the altar, was erected shortly after the introduction of Christianity into this country : it was only at that period the Celtic monuments were considered as giving sanctity to the place on which they stood ; though it might be supposed that some veneration was still attached to them. COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 265 the Irish expression for, going to worship, lite- rally signifying, going to a stone around which people assembled to worship. A view of the rocks throughout this range, and of the uncouth forms and grotesque positions which they some- times assume, leads to the belief that the eleva- tion of cromlechs, or altars, is not always to be attributed to the physical exertions of man. It is impossible to conceive such immense blocks to have been raised in rude times by uncivilized men ; and the absence of regularity in the position, and in the number of the stones employed, strengthens the supposition that they are natural formations. In this neighbourhood, some other large and flat rocks might be made to exhibit the same appearances, by removing the earth on which they rest, and exposing to view the irregular, and frequently perpendicular, pillars beneath them. There is another altar near Donlsle inferior in magnitude and beauty to that at Sugar-loaf There is no similarity observable in the direction or inclination of the stones in these antiquities. In that at Sugar-loaf, the direction appears to be east and west, the upper or table stone dipping to the east; at Donlsle, the table stone is sup- ported by three uprights, the direction is north and south, and the inclination to the south. The rock of which these altars arc composed, is silice- ous slate; the flat stone or covering at Sugar- loaf is chlorite slate. 2G() lOlHXiK AI>I1V AND ANTIQUITIES. In an open space between these wild and irre- gular elevations is a small conical hill, called Criiach or the Heap, in which is an exceedingly rich mineral vein containing lead ore combined with a considerable proportion of silver : this mine was formerly worked to a great extent, as appears from the still remaining shafts which were exca- vated with care, and propped and supported with timber which was only recently removed. Near to this place, beds of sand occur in large quanti- ties, and there are some indications of limestone, which will probably be found on the lands of Gaulstown. There is a romantic wildness in the country about Pembrokestown which is totally unlike any thing to be seen in this barony. The hills, which rise precipitously, are covered with singularly bold and rugged rocks, and immediately adjoining and between these irregular elevations, small patches of the finest land, watered by a clear stream and sheltered from every wind, present a retired and quiet landscape, which even from contrast must be considered interesting. A slight improvement in the farmers' dwellings, and some judicious planting, would supply all that is want- ing to render the scenery perfect. It would be surprizing if, in such a place, some traces of the Celtic inhabitants of Ireland were not discernible : there is here all the romantic interest and natural grandeur which these people loved, and the simple COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 267 monuments which still remain to us incontestibly prove that this was a favourite haunt. A round hill or rath, which commands no distant view, could only have been a residence or retreat ; be- sides this, there is a cromlech which consists of five upright stones supporting a flat stone or co- vering. The entire is inconsiderable in size, and possesses no remarkable beauty. At Whitfield, the property of Mr. Christmas, the coarse slate passes into roof slate : a quarry of this material has been worked to some extent; but, in consequence of the smallness of the slates, is now disused. Probably, were the quarry sunk to a greater depth, the slates would be found larger. Near Knockaderry, a subterraneous passage is hollowed out of the rock, and seems to have had some connection with the Druidic supersti- tion. A curious sepulchre was discovered here beneath a cairn or heap of stones ; it consisted of six square stones joined together in form of a box, and contained human bones, some of which ap- peared to have been burned. Near Whitfield were lately discovered two stone chambers, somewhat resembling the monument at New Grange near Droghcda, described by Ledwich. On the removal of a vast heap of stones which lay for ages on the side ol' tiic road, and from s2 2G8 TOPOGRAPHY AXD ANTKH'ITIES, which portions were taken away from time to time to be used in repairing, a large flag was observed, which, when removed, discovered a circular open- ing into an arched or vaulted apartment con- structed in the shape of a bee-hive. It was com- posed of flat stones, the higher projecting beyond the lower, and tapered into a point which was covered with a flag. On entering into it, a nar- row passage was discovered, leading from one side, but it was almost filled up with rubbish and clay : another chamber was found at no great dis- tance. These buildings are about five or six feet high, and are supposed to have been used as tombs. The village and neighbourhood of Kilmeaden were formerly places of some consequence; but the castle and the ancient private residences are long since gone to decay, and in their place only one considerable residence has been built, at Mount Congreve, the property of John Congreve, Esq. In the churchyard of Kilmeaden is the tomb of John Ottrington, Esq. who purchased part of the property of the Le Poer family, which was seized by Cromwell. The monument was erected by Elizabeth, Viscountess Doneraile. At Phair Brook, on the lands of CuUinagh, in this parish, and six miles to the west of Waterford, there is a most extensive paper manufactory, car- ried on with great spirit and judgment by the COUNTY OF AVATERFORD. 269 respectable proprietors, Messrs. Phair and Har- dums. Notwithstanding all the disadvantages under which this species of manufacture has laboured from enormously high duties, and the frequent and vexatious visits of revenue officers, who are personally interested in making the discovery of illicit practices, this establishment has gradually and progressively succeeded so as to arrest the attention of even the most superficial traveller. The steadiness and regularity with which the business is conducted, the excellence of the ma- chinery, the constant adoption of every species of improvement, and the unwearied attention evinced in every department, have placed this manufactory on the firmest and most durable basis. About 140 men, women, and children are kept in constant employment, and thus the bene- ficial effects of Phair Brook mills are felt for miles around. This neighbourhood is peculiarly fortunate in the occupation of the peasantry. Mr. Malcomson, of Clonmell, a spirited and enter- prising merchant, has lately become tenant to the mills of Pouldrew, where there was formerly an extensive iron manufactory carried on by Messrs. Wyse. He has already ex})endcd much money in repairing the old bolting mill, and is about to erect a mill and corn stores, which will be of great service to this part of the country. These two establishments are situated on the 270 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. same stream, which unites itself with the river Suir at a little distance from Pouldrew. UPPERTHIRD* The barony of Upperthird consists of two irre- gular portions of land, extending across the county from the Suir to the sea, except where the northern division is separated from the south- ern, by the parish of Rosmeer, a part of the barony of Decies. This barony is of considerable extent at the northern boundary, but is contracted as it approaches the sea-coast : it contains no town unless we include a part of the town of Carrick on Suir. The face of the country adjoin- ing the sea is altogether wild and uncultivated, almost entirely destitute of trees, and, except near the village of Bonmahon, unimproved by any respectable residence. The coast labours under the same disadvantages as were before enumerated in the account of Middlethird, and consequently the fishery is at present compara- tively unproductive. It is to be hoped, that the peasantry residing on the coast of this county, will shortly receive some portion of the assistance intended by government for the fisheries of Ire- land. * Upperthird contains — near the sea, the parishes of Kilbarry-' meaden, Monksland and Ballylameen ; near the Suir — Gilcat,'h and Coolfin, Cloncgam, Fenoagh, Mothill, Desert and Kilmolcran. This barony was formerly divided into eleven parishes. COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 27 i The parish of Kilbarrymeaden derives its name from a church which was built here by St. Bara- medan. The Irish word cill, pronounced kill, signifies a church, abbey or place set apart for religious purposes. The land which belonged to this church has long been highly venerated by the common people, who attribute to it many surprizing qualities. It is said that a notorious robber, whenever he passed through this place, used to wash his horse's hoofs and legs in the first water which he chanced to meet, lest his haunts should be discovered in consequence of his being guilty of sacrilege, in carrying away a portion of the holy clay. There is a "well here, sacred to St. Baramedan, frequently resorted to by pilgrims, who ascribe many virtues to its waters. Murina, a sister of this Saint, and equally esteemed for piety, also resided in this parish. A church, the ruins of which are still discernible, built by her near the sea, gives to the place the name of Kil- murrin. An image of this saint, rudely carved out of a rock, may be seen in a cave near Dun- brattin : the place is often resorted to by the neighbouring people. A recent discovery of limestone at Tankards- town, near the sea coast, promises great advan- tages to the neighbouring country. At Dunbrattin, a term which signifies the for- tification of the Britons, it is su})poscd that tlu^ 272 TOPOGRAPHS AND ANTIQUITIES. first English invaders landed in this county : a small mound, with a circular entrenchment, is still pointed out as their earliest acquisition. The contiguity of this place to Donlsle, or as it is sometimes called, Dondrone, is supposed to coun- tenance this idea. To the west of Dunbrattin is the village of Bon- mahon, consisting of some handsome private resi- dences and several convenient lodging-houses, generally occupied during the summer season. The river Mahon, which rises in the Cummeragh mountains, and after a course of seven or eight miles here meets the sea, is crossed by a light wooden bridge, which adds to the picturesque appearance of the place. Much has been done by the proprietor of Bon- mahon, to render it a popular and fashionable bathing place: a circular race-course, a conve- nient strand and public rooms are among the in- ducements which this village offers to the public. The mines at and near Bonmahon, deserve parti- cular attention, and, whether we consider their importance, and the advantages derivable from them to the country generally, or to the unem- ployed population of the adjoining district in particular, it must be admitted that a faithful in- quiry into their extent, value and facilities for working, is much to be desired. This can be effec- tually accomplished only by those practically ac- quainted with the business of mines. The following COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 273 observations are offered, with the hope of arousing public attention to the subject. It appears from a manuscript of the Bishop of Clogher, in the college library, that valuable mines were known to be in this neighbourhood, at a very early period: the situation of Knockdry and Powers-country, in which places, silver and lead were said to be found, cannot now be exactly ascertained ; but it seems probable that the latter place was some- where near Bonmahon or Annstown, where the representative of the family of Power formerly resided. The mines of Bonmahon, under which denomination are included the mines in the vici- nity, produce copper, lead and silver ; veins have already been opened in many places, and worked to a considerable extent. In the year 1745, a company rented these mines from Lord Ranelagh, for a term of thirty-one years, under an agreement to render to his Lordship one eighth part of all the ore obtained. The works were carried on for eight or ten years with great spirit and tolerable success; but a want of union among the members of the company, injudicious arrangements, and, above all, unfaithful managers, checked the pro- gress of the undertaking and it was at length abandoned. One hundred and thirty tons of cop- per and thirty-five tons of lead ore, are mentioned in an old document as having been raised in a few months. Mr. Wysc subsequently worked these mines 274 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. with three hundred men, and obtained large quan- tities of ore : a heap, which was thrown aside as of little value, was afterwards shipped to England on speculation, and produced near four hundred pounds. In 1811, Lord Ormond undertook to renew the works, but was obliged to desist after a considerable expenditure had been incurred, and when there appeared every probability of ample remuneration. The value of the mines is described in the most glowing colours, by an individual who had the management of the works at this time : solid cop- per is said to have been found exceeding eight inches in thickness, and extending through a space of more than thirty yards ; while the situa- tion of the veins is represented as the most favour- able for the operations of the workmen. The rock in which the mineral veins occur is clay slate : the veins are found in some cases within a few feet of the surface, and none have been worked at any time to a greater depth than twenty-five yards. Persons walking along the beach may observe copper ore in many places; but the course of the principal veins is known only to miners residing at Bonmahon. At the strand of Kilmurrin, lead ore is found among the sand, and amply repays a number of country people who are constantly employed in seeking for it by turning up the surface with their spades. This ore has produced from thirty-eight COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 275 to forty ounces of pure silver per ton. Very many veins of lead and copper ore have been discovered besides those which were worked at Bonmahon, but the property in them being reserved by the lord of the soil, the occupying tenants are averse to their being publicly known, conceiving that the operations of the miner would interfere with their interests, while they would be entirely excluded from any participation in the profits. Mineral veins are known to occur at Temple Brie and at Carrig Castle. The principal mines are on the property of the Earl of Ormond, and on a part of the see lands of the Bishop of Waterford. The central part of the barony of Upperthird is traversed by a range of high land, called the mountains of Cummeragh, which extend from the river Suir to the neighbourhood of Dungarvan. The Cummeraghs, as they are called, are com- posed of an irregular chain or series of hills, only partially connected together, and varying in di- rection, in some degree, though having a general tendency from north to south. The sides of these mountains are extremely wild and precipitous, and present a singular ap- pearance when viewed at a little distance ; the lofty rocks and deep precipices exhibiting great masses of light and shadow. Clay-slate forms the base or mountain mass of all this range. On Monevullagh, large beds of liornstonc porj)hyry are found : there arc also several veins of (juartz 276 TOrOCJIJAPlIV AND ANTIQUITIKS. and pink felspar, in which micaceous iron ore and iron glance show themselves. The clay-slate which forms the mass of this range, is, in some places, of a beautiful purple colour : over this are found a close grained sandstone of a light grey colour, argillaceous red sandstone, and slaty con- glomerate. The slaty conglomerate is exceed- ingly beautiful : its base is fine argillaceous sand- stone, in which very small quartz and hornstone pebbles are occasionally blended with fragments of purple slate, pink felspar, and indurated green earth. The purple slate is, however, the chief constituent of this rock. These rocks are all tabular, but irregular : they are placed in a vertical position, and hence the ruggedness of the mountains as you ascend to- ward their tops. At and near the junction, of the several streams which form the river Mahon, veins of quartz are to be seen, in which granular galena is found. There are several lakes on the summit of the Cummeraghs ; they are called the Cumme- loughs and the Stillogues In the former a re- markably fine species of trout is found, but the fish in the latter are very little esteemed. The views around the lakes are highly picturesque, and in some places magnificent. Porphyritic rocks occur here, and there are also indications of iron ore, particularly iron glance. At the White-horse^ hill, a very beautiful white sandstone, resembling Portland stone, is quarried for building ; but as COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 277 this stone is decomposed rapidly by the action of water, it should not be used where great durabi- lity is required. The mineralogist who expects variety in the rocks in this district will be grievously disap- pointed ; in fact, clay slate, purple slate, roof slate, and slaty conglomerate, are the principal formations. The tourist, however, who visits these mountains to see and admire the beauties of nature, will be amply recompensed by the sub- lime and romantic scenery which everywhere presents itself. These wild and lonely moun- tains, enveloped during a great portion of the year in mist and fog, and seldom visited except by the sportsman and summer tourist, were, for a long period, the retreat of General Blakeney, an eccentric being, who " loved not man nor woman either." After a continuance of some years in the gaie- ties of the world, and while still in the prime of life, this gentleman constructed a dwelling on one of the hills which compose this range, and, with a single male attendant, for he never admit- ted females into his residence, retired to live here in solitude. How he passed his lonely hours is not exactly known : tlie servant partook of the taciturnity of his master, and few ever visited where they felt that tlicir presence was an intrusion. The recluse was mostly engaged witli his fishing rod or gun ; 278 TOrOGRAPIIY AND ANTIQUITIES. and was often seen, clad in an apparently impe- netrable garment, braving storm and rain, even in the wildest weather. He was seldom known to leave his solitude, and never sought or enjoyed society, except when obliged to give shelter to a benighted sportsman ; and, on such occasions, his manner and behaviour were kind, though reserved and distant^ — as if to show that he did not regret the demand on his hospitality, though he wished that the same necessity for it might not occur again. General Blakeney is represented as an intelli- gent and well informed man ; and it is, therefore, the more unaccountable, that no reason should have been assigned for his singular retirement. He continued on the mountain until his death, and, according to his own wish, was buried near his residence, with his dog and gun. Passing from the south to the north division of this barony, the contrast is truly singular. In the former, all is sterility and desolation ; a rude, naked, and uncultivated soil, without trees or improvements of any kind : in the latter, the face of the country and even the climate appear more favourable, and in some places there is a rich- ness and a magnificence of scenery which is rarely surpassed. Of course the former observations do not apply to the parts of the southern division which are fortunate in enjoying the residences of wealthy individuals, around whose seats nature COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 279 and man wear a more kindly aspect. It is in those places where gentlemen's mansions are *' few and far between," that the truth of the re- mark is undeniable; and it is after having wan- dered over miles of unimproved country, that we fully perceive the value of resident proprietors. There are, however, capabilities of wealth and prosperity in this quarter, which should stimulate exertion. Independent of other advantages, the mines and the fisheries may be made of incalcu- lable benefit to the country, opening a vast field of enterprize, and affording capital to some, and profitable employment to a now wretched multi- tude. In this barony was situated the principal part of what was called Powers-country, under which denomination was also included the adjoining portion of Decies and part of the neighbouring barony of Middlethird. The representative of the family of the Powers, or Poers, still retains a com- manding influence here ; and includes, within his magnificent mansion at Curraghmore, a part of one of the castles of his ancestor of former cen- turies. Curraghmore, the seat of the Marquess of Wa- terford, is situated at the distance of about ten miles and a half from Waterford, and about two miles south from the river Suir, in a valley formed by the waters of a mountain river called the Clo- dagh. This river discharges itself into the Suir, 280 TOPOGUAPHY AND ANTKU'ITTES. and is navigable for about one mile, as far as the bridge of Portlaw. At the distance of eight miles from the city of Waterford, at the stream and ruined church of Kilbunny, the grounds of Curraghmore may be said to commence ; and from this place the pe- destrian traveller may enjoy the luxury of a most romantic and retired walk, which leads, without any interruption, to some distance beyond the house of Curraghmore, through woods of varied description, and of the most luxuriant growth. The entrance of this avenue, which is called the " Gravel Walk," may be found by turning up a narrow lane on the left hand side of the road immediately before coming to the stream of Kil- bunny ; it passes at the rear of the house of Cool- fin, (in which the rector of the parish usually re- sides,) across the road from Portlaw to Kilmac- thomas, and at a short distance behind the village of Portlaw, (after passing which, it' crosses a se- cond road, J comes in contact with the river Clo- dagh on its south bank — passes over the precipice which looks down on the salmon leap, and shortly after enters the Deer Park by a box turnstile. Immediately on entering into the Deer Park, a small wooden bridge presents itself, by which the river may be crossed to the grand avenue which runs along the opposite bank of the river. The Gravel Walk still continues its course along the south bank, and terminates at an antique stone COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 281 bridge, called Bullen's bridge, at a short distance beyond the house, which lies about three hun- dred yards from the opposite bank of the river. At the first or entrance gate of Curraghmore, a handsome school-house has lately been built by the direction of the Marchioness of Waterford, for the purpose of educating the children of the sur- rounding peasantry; the grounds which lie be- tween it and the Clodagh have been laid out in the most tasteful manner. At a short distance from the first gate, but not to be observed from the road, the Clodagh presents an interesting ap- pearance, forming a considerable water-fall, called the Salmon Leap, where the salmon may be ob- served, at the time of their periodical ascent, making the most persevering efforts to surmount this obstacle, and they are frequently found above three miles higher up than this point. On passing the second gate, the road continues for nearly half a mile parallel to the course of the river, the hills on either side being covered with oaks of the no- blest growth. On approaching within a quarter of a mile of the house, the road turns from the river ; but here a small door presents itself on the river's edge, which opens to the pleasure-grounds that lie be- tween the house and the Clodagh, and a gravel walk is continued along the bank, nearly to the western extremity of the demesne, beyond the 282 TOrO(iJlAPHV and AXTKiUITlKS. gardens, which are situated on the river side. The front approach to the house lies through two magnificent ranges of offices, inclosing an oblong court-yard of extraordinary dimensions, termi- nated by the ancient castle front, on the parapet of which is the representation of a stag, larger than life ; this is the crest of the Beresford family. The castle, which now forms the front, was the ancient residence of the Poer family. At the rear of this castle, a splendid and commodious man- sion has been erected by the grandfather of the present proprietor, the castle being converted to the purposes of a magnificent hall, and the upper part of it thrown into one grand apartment, called the castle-room. The rear of the new house commands a view, in which the grand and beautiful are united in an unusual manner. In the fore-ground, at the ex- tremity of the lawn, is presented a large sheet of water, formed by the extensive embankment of a small stream which runs into the Clodagh, orna- mented by fine trees, while the distance is closed in by the stupendous mountains of MonevoUagh, which present the most rugged and uncouth pre- cipices. The view in this direction is particularly brilliant and splendid in the evening, when the setting sun illuminates the craggy ridge of the mountain, and sinks its base in almost impene- trable shade. Passing from the low grounds, the parish church COUNTY OF ^VATERFORD. 283 of Clonegam may be observed at a considerable distance, on the side of a hill. The church, a beautiful little building, was re-edified by the late Marquess of Waterford, in the year 1794: the wood-work is of beautifully carved Irish oak; the windows, seven in number, are all of stained glass ; the west window is particularly fine, re- presenting, in its various compartments, some of the most remarkable passages of scripture history. In the churchyard is the burial-place of the noble family of Curraghmore, surrounded by rows of beech trees, whose tops uniting produce a gloomy shade, in perfect accordance with the solemn na- ture of the place. Higher up above the church, on the summit of the hill of Clonegam, stands a round tower, built by the late Marquess of Wa- terford, and dedicated to the memory of his eldest son, who was killed at the age of thirteen, almost at the gate of Curraghmore, while in the act of leaping his horse over the paling which joins the entrance. According to the original plan, this tower was to have been raised to the height of one hundred and twenty feet, but has been left in an unfinished state, at about seventy feet elevation. It can be ascended by a winding flight of steps in the inside, and the view from its summit is per- haps the most extensive that can be had from any similar elevation in the kingdom. On the south, at the direct distance of about seven miles, appears the sea, near the watering-place of Bonmahon. t2 284 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. On the west, the county of Tipperary is widely presented to the view : on the north, at the dis- tance of a mile, runs the Suir, which can be ob- served for a course of fifteen or twenty miles, separating the counties of Kilkenny and Tip- perary from that of Waterford, and winding through that fertile tract of country, which has been called the " golden vale of the south." In the distance, further to the north, appear the mountains of the county of Carlow ; while on the north-east and east, arise the mountains of the county of Wexford, which divide that county from the counties of Carlow and Wicklow. In the direction due east from this tower, it w^as the intention of the late marquess to have erected an artificial ruin in imitation of those places of religious worship, which are generally observed in the neighbourhood of the ancient round towers in this country ; and for this purpose, the stone window which belonged to the west end of the old cathedral of Waterford was transported to this spot, where it has since lain buried in the furze and heath. On returning from the tower by the church and farm-yard, you again come upon the road which passes through the demesne in the direction of Carrick, and shortly after ar- rive at the last gate. The entire demesne contained within the walls is considered above 2,500 acres, of which 1 ,200 are under timber ; to this the present proprietor has COUNTY OF MATEKFOKD. 285 added some very extensive farms which lay con- tiguous to the wall, the greatest part of which he has planted, so that the whole estate may perhaps now be estimated at 4,000 acres, of which at least 2,000 are under trees. The character of Curragh- more is grandeur ; not that arising from the costly or laborious exertions of man, but rather the mag- nificence of nature. The beauty of the situation consists in its lofty hills, rich vales, and almost impenetrable woods, which deceive the eye and give the idea of boundless forests. The variety of the scenery is calculated to please in the highest degree, and to gratify every taste ; from the lofty mountain to the quiet and sequestered walk on the bank of the river, every gradation of rural beauty may be enjoyed. About half a mile distant from the last gate, on an eminence which commands a splendid view of the Earl of Bessborough's improvements in the county of Kilkenny, and on the left hand side of the road, stands a stone of considerable magni- tude, raised at least eight feet above the level of the ground. There are various traditions among the country people with regard to the causes of elevation of this stone, and the agents who were employed in the work, but all of them too absurd to deserve notice here. Certain marks on one side of it, have by some been imagined to make part of an inscription, now almost entirely defaced ; by others they are said to be the marks left by the 286 TOl'OGHAPIlY AND AN IKiUlTlKS. fingers of those gigantic beings who amused them- selves in the removal and erection of this stone. At the distance of about forty yards, within the hedge, on the side of the road, there was disco- vered, in the year 1810, the entrance into a sub- terranean chamber eight feet square, and at the further extremity of this, a passage between two and three feet square, which led into a second apartment of the same dimensions as the former, and from thence into a third. The first discoverers not being gifted with much taste for subterranean research, preferred the more expeditious way of prosecuting their inquiries by digging in the field above, and having thus loosened the stone arch which formed the ceiling, the entire of the roof of the third apartment fell in, and thus put a stop to any further discovery. It has been supposed, that the large stone before mentioned, was in- tended as a mark by which the entrance into these subterranean chambers might be readily found, and that the apartments themselves were used as hiding-places during the various persecu- tions, disturbances and civil wars, which have for centuries afflicted this unhappy country. After leaving Curraghmore, the country adjoin- ing the Suir is sterile and hilly, until you approach the flat alluvial soil in the vicinity of Carrick. In an extent of some miles, there is little to ex- cite attention, except the contrast between the opposite sides of the river; the view of the county COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 287 of Kilkenny, which is rich and beautiful, must entirely occupy the mind. In Carrickbeg, formerly called Carrick-mac-Grif- fin, and Little Carig, being part of the suburbs of the town of Carrick on Suir, are the ruins of a monastery for Minorites founded in the year 1336, by James, Earl of Ormond. The list of the inmates of this building is only worthy of notice as containing the name of John Clyn, author of a celebrated chronicle yet extant. Friar John Clyn was translated from the Fran- ciscan Friary of Kilkenny to this monastery, of which he was appointed the first warden : he died of the plague, in 1349. The founder. Earl James, assigned ten acres of land to the friars, on which, by the aid of cha- ritable donations, they built a church, a dormi- tory and cloisters. The last prior was William Cormoke, who surrendered the monastery on the 7th of April, 1540, at which time the property consisted of a church and steeple, a chapter-house, dormitory, hall, three chambers, a kitchen, a stable, and about 150 acres of land. This friary and twenty acres of land in the town of Carrick, together with the friary of Athasscl in the county of Tipperary, were granted to Thomas, Earl of Ormond. Of the original buildings, the church and steeple alone remain, the latter in almost per- fect preservation. The church is of considerable 288 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. extent, extremely irregular in appearance, com- bining the Gothic with a peculiar kind of architec- ture, which is seldom described. The principal entrance is beneath a magnificent and neatly cut arch, springing from consoles decorated with flowery carving in the interior, and on the out- side with representations of human heads. The entrance is between the western extremity of the building, and the centre of the north-wall, and at a corresponding distance between the centre and the eastern extremity, a tower or steeple is raised to a very considerable height. The steeple is a square building, projecting con- siderably beyond the wall on which it is erected : the foundation of the steeple consists of a single stone, on which the lower part, resembling an in- verted cone, rests, and supports the entire weight of the superstructure. A beautiful spiral flight of steps built in the wall conducts to the top of the steeple. The interior of the church has been used as a cemetery, originally for the inmates of the monastery only, but in later times for the neighbouring families. The burial-place of the friars, which is at the left hand of the altar, is distinguished by an ornamented fretwork, some- thing like a canopy, which is inserted in the wall. A rudely carved figure in high relief points out the place of interment of one of the Friars, whom we are justified by nothing more than our wishes, in calling Friar John Clyn. — COUNTY OF WATEllFOUD. 289 Inserted in the wall, opposite the tower, is a tablet on which are the arms of the Ormond family, and the words — In te, Domine, speravi — Petrus Butler. A monmiient bearing date 1621 is almost totally illegible. Another monument, much of the inscription on which is legible, except the date, belonged to an individual of the Coolnamuck family who built the castle, the ruins of which are still preserved on the property of his descendant. As on all the ancient tombs, the inscription, in large Roman capitals, goes round the edge. GIIIALDUS WALE DE CUILMUCK NOBILIS CATERINA COMEFORD. Within a short distance of the ruins of the mo- nastery, a very handsome Roman Catholic chapel has been recently erected. The grand entrance is exceedingly neat ; the facing and the arches of the windows and doors are of cut stone. The figure of a saint is erected in front on the top of the building : at the other extremity, a steeple, a very imperfect imitation of that attach- ed to the monastery, gives an air of splendour to the chapel, and were it not that the ornamental part is too showy, the entire work displays con- siderable taste and ingenuity in the architect. There is something singular in the position of this chapel, wliicii, contrary to all ancient prece- 290 TOPOGRAPliy AND ANTIQUITIES. dent, stands north and south, completely at right angles with the monastery. In all places of worship in this country, the di- rection, allowing for the variation of the compass, is invariably east and west, and a reference to this rule frequently serves to point out the part of old buildings which was appropriated to religious uses, and which it would, otherwise, be difficult to discover. Nothing can exceed the beauty of the country on the county Waterford side of the Suir between Carrick and Clonmell. The road passes close to the river and at the foot of a lofty range of hills, planted with flourishing trees, or clothed to the summit with the most luxuriant vegetation. The oak seems to thrive here remarkably well ; even on the sides of the hill where the rock is near the surface, they are strong and vigorous : at Coolnamuck there are some very fine trees. The ruins of a castle built by Giraldus Wale, whose tomb is shewn in the ancient monastery of Carrick- beg, add considerably to the natural beauties of the demesne of Coolnamuck, and are preserved by the respectable descendant of the ancient pro- prietor, with perhaps a too cautious fidelity. At Churchtown, within a part of the ancient place of worship, — which, with a degree of taste not usually observable in modem ecclesiastical buildings, has been preserved, and adjoins the new parish church, — there are two very singular monu- COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 291 ments. They stood originally in the interior, and from the great space which they occupy, must have been highly valued by those who afforded such an undue portion for the accommo- dation of the dead. Though now some years ex- posed to the weather, the letters, with one or two exceptions, are sharp and well defined. The in- scription on the former is, for the most part, writ- ten in the large Roman capital ; there are, how- ever, some unusual variations in the formation of some of the letters : . HERE LIETH. IHS CA3 o Q < ANO 1587. u . C5 w ch o HH a HH H ^ t^ - • o a pi p O ^ H <: •XHasiGNH^joa .lo 292 TOrOGUAlMlV AND ANTJQLITIKS. fpic 3lacet Dng Cacolu0 ^ - CJ r^ «-t - £Drate pro Q aimatJU0 eocum « c^ ao. 1643 1 ^ 23 a^aii. o 6» S •1^ -S c2 n o o ;3 ."zi «>M> « ;3 3 3 ^^* ^^^ cr o a> S '-t c* o ^ ^ ^ S"" * *-ti o o c 3 ^ 3 CIS «^ C R ^actione"^ S' ^ Vi ^ i^y cs ■*rt r* to «-t o Sl» ^ H 4.^ r> <-^ <4-» cy ^ S» 3 rt f^ cr eaonb aa lacaiiB 0pinl)3) COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 293 In Sir William Petty's time, the Everards had an ancient castle in this neighbourhood, the site of which is not known. Within a short distance of Chnrchtown glebe, a woollen manufactory has been recently esta- blished; this and another establishment nearer to Carrick are, unfortunately for the country, the only remains of the former trade which at one time flourished here, and which was forced to yield to the distractions of Ireland, but more par- ticularly to the jealousy of the English manufac- turers. There are several persons employed by this manufactory, who work at their own homes, thus combining the quiet and innocence of rural life with the wealth and enjoyments of commerce. Turning from the direct road to Clonmell, and having ascended a steep hill, the ancient castle of Ballyclough is seen frowning over the valley. Nothing: is known of its former owners or of the particular purpose for which it was erected, save that it was the work of persons by no means des- titute of skill, and who lived in contemplation of wars and tumults. The building was rudely but regularly fortified, being defended by a moat and ditch, which are still discernible, and having all the accessible parts of the hill on which it is erected perfectly commanded by loop-holes and embrasures, which still remain. A circular stair- case, in tolerable preservation, conducts to the watch-tower, from which there is an extensive view of a wild nnd uninterestiiii> country. \\c- 294 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. turning to the charm and variety of the direct road to Clonmell along the bank of the Suir, the majestic woods of landscape, the property of John Congreve, Esq., and of Gurteen, belonging to Edmund Power, Esq. are seen skirting the way on the left for many miles. On the right, there is a considerable space of low land adjoin- ing the river, which affords a beautiful contrast to the thickly-planted hills which rise abruptly above it. A deep ravine, now almost concealed by its luxuriant timber, possesses singular beauty, and, were there occasional openings in the trees, could not be passed unnoticed. There is here, in a large bed of gravelly sand, the first indication of the occurrence of lime-stone; in many places in this county these two formations are found in immediate contact. At Gurteen, a magnificent mansion was projectedby Mr. Power, but nothing has been completed except the stables, which are of great extent, and exhibit a castellated appear- ance. A cromlech, or Druids' altar, stands on the demesne; it consists of five irregularly placed upright stones which support a sixth of somewhat larger size, but wanting the flatness and peculiar position of some of the more perfect of these works. On the property of the Earl of Glengall adjoining Gurteen, a prodigious ravine, excavated by win- ter torrents, discovers the material of the range of hills, which is red sandstone, alternating with a beautiful white siliceous sandstone ; and in some COUNTY OF WATERFOUD. 295 places the rock is of a soft slaty nature, readily decomposing by the action of air and water, and forming a yellow ochreous earth, sufficiently pure to be used in manufactures. This earth occurs in large quantities, and may be easily procured. Nearly opposite the ravine are the ruins of the castle of Darinlar, thickly clothed with ivy, and exhibiting indubitable proofs of age. This was a regularly fortified residence, commanding, per- haps, a ford across the river w^hich it immediately adjoins. The tower, which alone remains, was protected by four circular castles, that projected beyond the curtain, and effectually commanded the approach. The whole superstructure is raised on arches, probably in consequence of the foundation being defective; several vaults are still in perfect re- pair, and are a source of constant uneasiness to the superstitious peasantry. At the bounds of this barony, near Clonmell, is Tickencore, an ancient residence belonging to Sir William Os- borne, near which is a bridge across the Suir: there is also another bridge at the distance of about two miles. Having arrived at Tickencore, all the beautiful parts of Middlethird have been passed over; the interior, including the commons of Clonmell, which are supposed to contain about 5,103 acres, is a wild and uninteresting district, and presents little worthy of observation. Tt seems probable that this part of the barony. 29G TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. though now less improved than the tract adjoin- ing^ the river, was, in remote times, the seat of an extended population. The number of monas- teries and castles, the ruins of which are still dis- cernible, lead to the belief that civilization had made some advances here even at a distant period. At Rathgormuck the church occupied a large space of ground, and there are near it traces of former improvements. The west wall • of the church is still standing, and exhibits some re- mains of its Saxon architecture, which appears to have been afterwards, in some degree, re- placed by Gothic arches, clumsily affixed to the exterior of the doors and windows. At the dis- tance of about two miles from Rathgormuck, and in the direction of Clonea, is the castle of Fed- dens, a square building, forming the lower part of a large structure, contrived with all the massive rudeness of a distant period, but not retaining any traces of warlike design. Tradition tells us, that Feddens was formerly the residence of a frater- nity of priests, who had, besides the castle, se- veral houses around it. Independent of the good taste of the proprietor, the ancient building and an adjacent Danish rath are indebted for their continuance to the superstitious scruples of the peasantry, who, whatever was the object of build- ers of former days, are always unwilling to meddle with their labours. While digging the adjoining lands, the work- COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 297 men discovered a copper pot, about two years since. At Bolhendesart and at Mothil, in the neighbourhood of Carrickbeg, there were two fa- mous rehgious houses ; of the former nothing is known further than that it was built, probably in the sixth century, by St. Maidoc of Ferns; the latter was also constructed at the same time, or even an earlier period, for we find that in the sixth century St. Coan succeeded St. Brogan, who was the founder of the abbey, and the first abbot. The abbey of Mothil was established for canons regular of St. Augustin, though some assert that it belonged to the Cistertians. The abbots were long engaged in disputes about their property, and in one case which occurred in 1296, the Abbot Adam was nonsuited, he having sued by the name of Abbot of MortJiulL Edward Power, the last abbot, surrendered the abbey, 7th of April, 31 King Henry VIII. (1540) being then seised of the same, also of the church, steeple and cemetery, hall, five chambers, dor- mitory, kitchen, granary, two stables, an orchard and other closes containing six acres, all within the precincts of the abbey, together with lands in Mothil, Killeniaspieke, Kilberny and Grange Morlery, exceeding 700 acres, and also the recto- ries of Rathgormuck,Moynelargy and Ballylaneen, all which were appropriated to this abbey. In two years afterwards, all these possessions were granted to Butler and l*cter Power, at the 298 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. annual rent of i'C : 46". 0^/. Irish money. The ruins of this ancient abbey cover a large extent; the west and south wall of what was probably the church are still standing. In the latter, a beau- tiful Saxon arch, about twelve feet high, opens into a small square chamber : part of the ancient arch has been recently filled up, leaving a narrow entrance, to which an iron gate has been attached. Several modern sculptured stones have been in- serted in the ancient work, intended to represent some parts of scripture history. These stones are all together six in number; two of them containing historical representations, and four having figures of the Apostles, three on each. The carving is very rude, but perfectly distinct. In the small building which appears to have been reserved for the interment of particular fa- milies, two of the sculptured stones are inserted in the wall, opposite the entrance, under a piece of ornamental work. Around a flat tomb-stone in this place is the following inscription, in large Roman capitals : HIC JACET GVALTERUS POWER GENEROSUS ORIUND° EXANTIO FAMILIA JOHANNIS GULIELMI ET UXOR EJUS CATERINA PHELAN QUI SUIS SUMPTIBUS CONSTRUXERUNT HOC MONUMENTUM. QUORUM 16 J UNIX, ANIMAL 1628. PROPITIE TUR DEUS. COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 299 In the same place is a monument to the me- mory of Mrs. Jane Wall, relict of James Wall, of Clonea Castle, 1821. In the ruins of the larger building, an iron railing incloses the burial-place of the Powers, of Gurteen. In the inclosure is a very ancient tomb. A tomb-stone, narrowing to the foot, which was a form used in very distant times, may be ob- served near this : the characters are quite illegible. The church of Mothil is a neat modern building, simply ornamented with a tower, instead of the incongruous and mis-shaped steeples with which such structures are usually disfigured. At the distance of about a mile from Mothil, and in the vicinity of one of the ^mountains of Cummeragh, are the village and castle of Clonea. The castle is one of the most perfect specimens of the ancient fortified residence, and exhibits clearly all the minute arrangements of such dwell- ings. The principal building is quadrangular and of great height, divided into several stories, which are approached by a flight of stairs within the walls. The watch tower commands a magnificent prospect. Outside, and within a few feet of the castle, a strong wall, with circular towers at the angles, in- closed a square piece of ground: this was the first defence, and beyond it were a ditch and moat, a portcullis and fortified keep ; a series of defences, which, l)eforc the use of artillery, must have been i: 2 300 TOrOGRAPIIY AND ANTKJUITTKS. inexpugnable. Only two of the circular towers can be distinctly traced; but there can be no room to doubt, that the .ancient arrangement of the several building's was as described. The little river Clodagh, which flows close to the site of the castle, and some judicious plantations, give in- terest to the scene. A species of muscle is found in the Clodagh, in which pearls are frequently discovered: some of these are exceedingly beau- tiful; they are of a pale blue colour, not regu- larly shaped, and are considered but of little value. DECIES WITHOUT DRUM.* The two baronies of Decies are distinguished by the relative situation which they bear to the Drum mountain. Decies without Drum is the largest barony in the county, and contains the towns of Dungarvan and Kilmacthomas. In the parish of Rosmeer, a narrow strip of land which separates the two divisions of Upperthird, are situated Kilmacthomas and Newtown. At the latter place it was intended to build a town, pro- bably as being on the confines of three baronies ; streets were marked out and paved, and a few houses erected, all of which have long since gone to ruin, except one. * This barony is divided into thirteen parishes — Rosmeer, Fevvs, Stradbally, Kilrossinta, Kilgobonet, Clonea, Dungarvan, Colligan, Seskinan, Modelligo, White Church, Kilrusli, Affane. COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 301 Kilmacthomas, situated on the road leading from Waterford to Dungarvan and Cork, is built on a steep and dangerous hill, at the foot of which flows the river Mahon. It would appear that this little river was formerly subject to greater floods than have been observed here for many years. In 1649, Cromwell having raised the siege of Water- ford, and passing through Kihnacthomas on his way to Dungarvan, the Mahon had risen to such a height, that an entire day was consumed in send- ing the foot across the river. There is now a handsome stone bridge here. At this place was an ancient castle, which belonged to the Le Poer family, in whose descendants the principal pro- perty in the neighbourhood is still vested. On the sea coast, at the distance of six miles from Kilmacthomas, is the village of Stradbally, consisting of one long and irregularly built street. The church, which is a modern building, stands on the site of the old church : near it are the ruins of an abbey of Augustinian Friars, the last of whom, called the White Friar, is still the hero of many legendary tales. At Ballivoney, the traces of an extensive building are still discernible : the length was an hundred and fifty feet, the breadth ninety feet. An open well in front of the building communicated, by a subterraneous passage of two hundred feet, with another well within the walls. The water which sujiplicd these wells was brought 302 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. through an aqueduct, extending nearly half a mile. Tills building was supposed to have been one of the Knights Templars' houses, of which establish- ments this county only contained four, the sites of which are all known. There are two Roman Ca- tholic chapels in this parish. The lower orders are of a peaceable and industrious character ; the same remark applies to the inhabitants along the coast, from the Suir to Dungarvan; and generally, wherever there is food and employment, the pea- santry appear both industrious and contented. In proof of the improving condition of the peo- ple in this parish, it may be noticed that the schools are numerously attended. The late Pierce Barron, of Faha, Esq. bequeathed £30 per annum as an. encouragement to education in this place. Ad- joining the village of Stradbally, and immediately contiguous to the sea, is Woodhouse, the seat of Robert Uniacke, Esq. It is mentioned in Smith's history of Waterford, that, in the year 1742, an ancestor of the present proprietor obtained a pre- mium for having planted 152,640 trees ; and it is added, '* were they properly taken care of, they would in time make a noble plantation." Not- withstanding their proximity to the sea, these trees have flourished in a remarkable manner, and now demonstrate the practicability of growing timber in almost any situation, provided the requisite care and expense be afforded. Woodhouse was COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 303 anciently called Torc-Raith : it was the residence of part of the sept of the Geraldines, and the scene of much valorous contention. The ruins of many castles are still discernible in this and the neighbouring parishes. At Tem- ple Brie, a vast rock in the sea, distant about forty yards from the shore, there are traces of an ancient building, supposed to have been the residence of O Brie, the chief of the southern Decies. A spe- cies of hawk, remarkable for great strength and courage, frequented this rock, and is occasionally seen there at the present time. About two miles to the south-west of Strad- bally are the ruins of a castle, called, in Irish, the house of fortification : it is situated on a very steep cliff, which overhangs the sea, and was defended on the land side by a deep trench, over which was a draw-bridge. This castle was built by the Fitz- geralds, and was inhabited at no very remote pe- riod. A little beyond this, near the river Dally- gan, there stood for many years a representation of a human figure, rudely cut out of a rock ; it was considered by the country people as the image of a saint, and was presented by travellers with a green branch, a leaf, or flower, and a heap of these always lay before it. It was afterwards removed, and cast into the sea. There are in this parish the relics of Druidical works, if we may judge from their appearance. At Drumlohan is an inclosure of an oval form, 1S2 feet in kiigtii and 133 feet in 304 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. its greatest breadth : in the centre is a large stone, around which some of smaller size are raised. A subterranean circular chamber, thirty feet in dia- meter, and roofed with flags which met in a point at top, was discovered some years ago near Wood- liouse, and is also supposed to be of Druidic origin. Whilst enumerating the wonders of this neigh- bourhood, Clough-lowrish, or the speaking stone, must not be omitted. This is an enormous rock or mountain mass, which seems to have rolled down from the adjoining hill, and is now firmly fixed in the centre of a stream, near the road from Waterford to Dungarvan. The stone is split in a remarkable manner, the fissure dividing the mass into two nearly equal parts. There is a tradition that some person, as he passed this rock, express- ed a wish that it might speak and divide into two parts, if the declaration which he was making were not true : the story goes, that the stone did split and also speak, and the appellant was conse- quently convicted of falsehood. The rock is a very coarse pudding-stone, and might have been in- duced to convict the perjurer, by the influence of frost upon water, which can easily percolate the mass : whether the sound emitted on the occasion was an articulate one, it is not so easy to determine. In the parish of Kilgobonet, which extends to the mountain of Cummeragh, are the ruins of a church, situated on a hill. This parish derives its name, as well as its consequence, (if it possesses COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 305 any,) from a saint called Gobnata, who, in the sixth century, was abbess of a nunnery in the county of Cork : the patron day is the 11th of February. From the parish of Clonea the land inclines as you approach the sea, exhibiting a large tract of alluvial soil, highly cultivated and fertile. An extensive and enlivening view appears from the summit of Cushcam ; beneath is seen the cas- tle of Clonea, the ruins of a church, and a spacious strand ; further on, the improvements of Cloncos- koran, and, in the distance, the town of Dungar- van, with its abbeys and towers, which seem as if rising out of the sea. The town of Dungarvan is supposed to have been built in the seventh century : it was anciently called Achad-Garvan,from St.Garvan, who found- ed here an abbey of canons of St. Augustine. Without depending too much upon the tradi- tional antiquity of this place, there are many au- thentic records to assure us that Dungarvan was a considerable town, so early as the reign of Ed- ward the Fourth (1463). In this year, Dungarvan was incorporated by an Act of Parliament still preserved, which recites that " the seignory of Dungarvan was the most great and ancient honor belonging to the king in Ireland." All the ])rivi- leges which the citizens enjoyed under this act were renewed to them by James tlic First, as a reward for their fidelity to the crown, during the rebellion in the reign of (^uecu Iiliizabetli. The 306 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTrQUlTIES. charter was again renewed in 1659, at which time the borough of Dungarvan possessed property va- lued at £203 per annum. The corporation of Dun- garvan has long since gone into disuse. It seems probable, that the conflicting interests of the cor- poration and of the proprietor of the manor, not being equally balanced, the divided powers of the former merged in the more steady influence of the latter. The manor of Dungarvan is now the property of his Grace the Duke of Devonshire. King John built the castle, and probably it was the same prince who fortified the town, inclosing it with a wall, having towers and bastions. The castle and fortifications having fallen into decay, they were repaired in 1463 by Thomas, Earl of Desmond, to whom the customs of the town were delivered, to be appropriated to that purpose. The walls and towers are now for the most part removed, except where they have been joined to modern buildings. The ruins of the castle and fortifications are still to be seen. This place of defence, situated within the entrance of the harbour of Dungarvan, con- sisted of a castle, placed in the, interior of an ob- long fort, which was regularly fortified and mount- ed with cannon, and was protected by circular towers at the angles. The external defence is approached by a narrow passage between two battlemented walls, at the extremity of which is the entrance or keep, a narrow tower-like build- COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 307 ing, flanked on each side by circular castles. The gateway, which is very narrow, opens into a small quadrangular space, from which there are recesses opening into the massy walls — probably intended to protect those who were stationed at the en- trance, and who were thus enabled to annoy the assailants. The interior building, or castle, was elevated some few feet above the external fortifi- cations, and was in itself capable of resisting an attack, even after the loss of the outworks. There was a well within the inclosure, but it is now filled up, the water being brackish. The site of the castle is the property of the Duke of Devonshire, and is now rented by go- vernment, who have erected here a miserable barrack for the garrison of the town. The bar- rack, a modern building, planted as it is in the centre of an ancient and venerable fortification, looks singularly mean and inappropriate : the sol- diers too, with their modern dresses and modern implements of war, do not harmonize with the appearances around them, and give the idea of being intruders on the property of the heroes of distant times. The town of Dungarvan is well situated ; it stands to the west of the harbour, an arm of the sea, which extends inland for some distance, and is navigable for vessels of considerable tonnage. According to a maj) of the town, as it appeared about the middle of the last century, the streets 308 TOPOGUAPIIV AND ANTIQUITIES. and buildings were of the most wretched descrip- tion, and they continued in the same state until a very few years since. Crowded with miserable houses, irregular in appearance, without any or at all events an inefficient police, Dungarvan de- served the reproachful epithets which travellers universally bestowed upon it. There were no re- gular market-places, no public water-works : the court-house, where the sessions are occasionally held, was considered unsafe for the purposes for which it was originally intended : there was no bridge, and consequently no way of passing from the town to the Waterford side of the river, except by a ferry boat, or, as was generally the case with the lower classes, by fording the stream at low water. This custom, particularly as practised by females, gave rise to ridiculous and indelicate jests, which served to impress upon travellers an unfavourable opinion of the inhabitants of the town. In addition to all this, the population were with- out employment, the fishery neglected, and the prisons were a disgrace to a civilized country. Such was Dungarvan, when the present proprie- tor of the manor, his Grace the Duke of Devon- shire, directed his attention to its improvement. The first great work effected was the erection of a magnificent bridge across the river, at a little distance above the town, where it should not in- terfere with the approach of the shipping. The river, or rather arm of the sea, is crossed by a COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 309 bridge and causeway which were executed at the sole expense of the present Duke, in 1815. The bridge is a single arch of seventy-five feet, a most beautiful specimen of architecture ; the massive stones of which it was built, were alt brought from England. The causeway is three hundred and fifty yards in length and must have been a work of enormous labour. A neat square and a handsome street connect the town with the bridge and serve to make an opening to the penetralia of the place. Reservoirs of water conveniently situated, and (what were hitherto unknown in Dungarvan) market-places for the sale of fish and meat, are among the improve- ments already effected. Here, as in all places where his property extends, the Duke of Devon- shire has largely contributed to the establish- ment of Fever Hospitals, Dispensaries, Poor Schools and other public charities. The fisheries of the southern coast of Ireland, whether consi- dered as a source of national wealth, as a nursery for seamen, as affording employment to a super- abundant population, and at the same time yield- ing an ample supply of nutricious food, present to the enlightened statesman a wide field for the exercise of political sagacity. The Nymph bank, as far as has been ascertained, stretches along the whole of the southern coast, at the distance of about seven leagues from its eastern part at Dun- garvan, to a distance of from fourteen to twenty 310 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. leagues from its western part at Cape Clear and the Mizcn-liead. This bank is supposed to afford an inexhaustible supply of cod, ling, 8cc. and might be made to add a great accession of wealth to the country, were a few of the harbours improved by piers, and capital afforded to the fishermen to enable them to equip their vessels. From the poverty of the owners, the boats are not in general in the sea-worthy condition in which they ought to be. The heavy expenses even of repairs frequently compel the fisherman to risk his life with cordage and sails which are almost unfit for use, and until the establishment of the bounty, which in some degree operated as a do- nation of capital, many boats were altogether laid up, their owners being unable to repair them. Since the tonnage bounty has been in opera- tion, the number of boats and men employed in the fishery of Dungarvan has increased progres- sively. In the last year 163 boats and about 1100 men have been engaged, and have procured for the country upwards of one thousand tons of excellent fish. The wives and children of the fishermen are also employed in cleaning and salting the fish, so that at a moderate calculation, it may be computed that 5000 individuals depend for their support on this branch of national indus- try. The sum granted in bounties during the last year, was £2,047. The fostering care of government has already COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 311 produced many beneficial results ; it has infused a spirit of life and vigour into the minds of the people, and it has called into action a portion of capital which would otherwise have lain dormant. Still the fishery of Dungarvan is in its infancy, and will for some time longer require encourage- ment and support. The principles of free trade are not generally applicable in this country and least of all in the present instance, where nothing can be done without capital and where capital does not exist. All the public and private measures adopted for their benefit have tended to give new life to the inhabitants, and it is not too much to say, that Dungarvan is now a handsome and certainly an improving town. Previous to the Union this borough sent two Representatives to parliament : householders who have a freehold of five pounds per annum, are entitled to vote for the member for the borough, and have the further privilege of voting for the members for the county. There are no traces of the abbey founded by St. Gar- van, nor are there any public buildings which de- serve particular attention. Some of the towers which protected the gates, and the angles of the wall, still remain. The church, a modern build- ing, commands a fine view of the harbour. A Roman Catholic chapel was commenced here a few years since, but the extent of the proposed building being much too great for tiic numbers 312 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. and wealth of the persons concerned in its erec- tion, the plan has not succeeded. The new cha- pel, if completed, would be much larger than the great chapel at Waterford, which is generally considered one of the most spacious buildings in the empire; and, in addition to its size, its splen- did and costly design opposes impediments to its erection. There are a number of public schools in Dun- garvan, all well attended. Of Roman Catholic children alone there are no less than 777 at dif- ferent schools. At the abbey side, and in view of the town, are the ruins of a castle and abbey. Nothing can be discovered relative to the castle further than its having been the property of the M'Graths : it is a lofty square building and was probably intended to protect the abbey. The abbey has been more fortunate in its annals. In the thirteenth century, there was established here, a monastery of the order of Eremites of St. Augustin, commonly called Austin Friars, under the protection of the Earl of Desmond. It is said that the M'Graths, one of whom is buried here, were the founders of this house, and that the property attached to the abbey was given by them and by the O'Briens of Cummeragh. There is still much to admire in the ruins of this ancient abbey : the wall and tower, with the entrances and windows, are still perfect, and give a clear idea of the beauty of the COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 313 building, in its former condition. The original structure comprised a number of apartments or cells for the members of the order, and a place of worship, a narrow edifice, from the centre of which arises a light Gothic tower, sixty feet in height and still in good preservation. The arch which supports the tower springs from the side walls, and is constructed with great elegance and lightness. The timber used in turning the arches is still to be seen, and though exposed to the air for nearly six hundred years, is not yet entirely decayed. The entrance at the western extremity is through a small Gothic doorway, which opens into- the exterior or nave of the church ; the arched way beneath the tower forming a communication with the chancel. A large window at the east end, having a rather modern appearance, admits a fine view of the ocean. Immediately beneath a low window adjoining the eastern extremity of the church, there is a very ancient tombstone, around which may be traced the following inscrip- tion, in large letters, DONALD M'GRATH, 1400. On the foundation of the ancient cells, a Ro- man Catholic chapel has been lately erected, and is now become a part of the abbey : the interest and sanctity of the ancient building are thus appro- priated to the worslii])}jers of the existing gene- 314 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. ration, while the biirying-ground is to remove every remaining distinction between the present and the past. The chapel bell is erected on the summit of the tower. Over the entrance of the modern building is a rude stone on which is cut a Griffin, and three escallop shells : this formerly stood above the door of the abbey. The walls and entrance to the burying-ground are preserved in good and neat order, and betoken that the present owners contemplate the place with the respect it merits. In the parish of Modelligo, adjoining the parish of Colligan, there are the ruins of many ancient buildings, the principal of which were the pro- perty of the M'Graths, who had large estates in this part of the county. The castle of Sledy was built in 1628, by Philip M'Grath. The castle of Knockmoan, in the parish of White- church, is one of the most picturesque buildings in this neighbourhood, and would be esteemed an invaluable object by the admirer of wars and sieges. It is situated on a tall insulated rock commanding an extensive prospect, and perfectly secured by a deep morass which incloses it on every side. This castle is supposed to have been built by a female, whose tomb was long shewn here, but there being no inscription or record of any kind to confirm the idea, the matter is still involved in obscurity. Sir Richard Osborne was besieged in this place COUXTY OF WATERFORD. 315 in the rebellion of 1641 : it was afterwards taken by Cromwell's soldiers, and probably it was by them reduced to the ruinous state in which it now ap- pears. Dromana, in the parish of Affane, is one of the most magnificent demesnes in Ireland, and when we consider its historical associations, or its natural beauties, is deserving of some particu- lar notice. The Lords of Decies, the ancient proprietors of Dromana, derived their descent from James, the seventh Earl of Desmond. In 1561, a descendant of this nobleman was created Baron of Dromany and Viscount Desses, and dying without issue, his possessions, but not his titles, descended to his brother Sir James Fitz- gerald, who removed from Cappagh to Dromana, where he died in December, 1581. It was a son of this Lord of Decies who received Sir Walter Raleigh, when he retired from active life to improve his estates in Ireland. It is said that Raleigh first introduced the potatoe, and a fine species of cherry which he brought from the Canary Islands. According to the very interest- ing account of Raleigh in " Researches in the South of Ireland," it appears that the potatoe was first planted in Youghal : the cherry was domes- ticated in the neighbourhood of Dromana, where it has continued to flourish to the present time, and is still in high estimation. The value of the cherry is still undisputed ; the other importation may be considered as an advantage or a curse to the x2 31G TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTKiriTIES. country, according to the different theories of political economists. Sir Walter Raleigh had considerable estates in this part of Ireland, and sought, with that zeal for which he was remark- able, to introduce improvements which he had learned in his intercourse with foreign countries. In proof of the generous hospitality of the Irish to the distinguished stranger, it may be men- tioned, that the Lord of Decies presented him with New Affane for a breakfast. Dromana, now the property of John Villiers Stewart, a descendant of the original proprietor, is rather calculated to excite admiration from the consideration of its antiquity as a residence, and from the extent of the demesne, than from any thing remarkable in the house, which is for the most part a modern building, the greatest portion of the ancient castle having been destroyed by fire. To view Dromana to the greatest advantage, it should be approached by crossing the Black- water, which runs between it and Lismore. A cot guided by a female, no mean rival of the Lady of the Lake, is stationed near Dromana, and offers a pleasant and picturesque mode of con- veyance to the demesne. The mansion appears suspended over the river, the land shelving rapidly, in some places perpen- dicularly, to the -water's edge. The view from this point is grand and striking : the banks of the Blackwater, thickly clothed M^th flourishing COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 317 trees, which seem to support the projecting win- dows of the castle, the hanging gardens and the beautiful windings of the stream compose a landscape which it is impossible to behold with- out admiration. The gardens, which cover a considerable space of sloping ground, command a fine view of Cap- poquin and the adjoining country. A sweet chest- nut tree, near the entrance, measures fifteen feet in circumference. The demesne is of great extent and magnificent in all its parts; the plantations have been ar- ranged with judgment, and with particular atten- tion to the grouping of the different trees. A sad proof of the disturbances of the times is seen in a barrack erected at a short distance from the house, in which were quartered an officer and twenty- one men. There are here very favourable circumstances for the geological inquirer who wishes to observe the relative position of the rocks in this district. The land is of considerable elevation at a short distance from the Blackwater, and shelves rapidly, and in some places very abruptly, to the river. The soil is remarkably fertile, evidently favour- able to the growth of trees, many of which are of unusual dimensions. There is no appearance of sterility even when you ascend the neighbouring hill, which is clothed with rich verdme to the ^summit. 318 TOrOGIlAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. Where the house is built, and contiguous to the river, the rock is clay-slate, large masses of which are exposed. The summit of the hill, which bounds the demesne, is a fine white sandstone resembling Portland stone. In a large and deep hollow in the demesne, there is a white clay re- sembling white powdered sugar, which, it is said, was employed successfully in the manufacture of glass: traces of copper ore are discernible in the rocks near the river, and at no great distance lead has also been found. At the opposite side of the river, and within a few feet of the surface, the substratum is micaceous red sandstone. The junction of the limestone and slate may be ob- served on the demesne of Tourin, the seat of Richard Musgrave, Esq. The view from the an- cient castle which forms a part of this gentleman's residence exhibits the mineralogical divisions as well as the picturesque beauties of the surround- ing country. It has always been supposed that a large tract of country in this neighbourhood abounds with mineral productions. At Kilkeamy, near Mountain Castle, on the lands of Mr. Chearn- ley, there is a fine lead mine ; the ore, in a pow- dered state, has been taken up with a shovel in considerable quantities, and used by potters for glazing. The ore is close to the surface, and is visible to the most careless observer. From the place where the lead appears, there is a deep ravine, affording the greatest facility to carry off COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 319 the water, if the mine were worked. In this barony, lime occurs in great abundance; it is found resting on clay-slate, sand-stone, and in some few places it is topped by a coarse gravel of a siliceous nature. The limestone enters into this county at the western boundary, and, extending towards the east and south, terminates near Clonea, within a few miles of Dungarvan. Wakefield is incorrect in saying that there is no lime in this county east of the Blackwater : lime is found in abundance at Lismore, at Saltibridge, and at Dungarvan, at the north, south, east, and west of the river. The workmen employed to sink for water in the lime- stone at the glebe of the Rev. Mr. Dickson, near Dungarvan, discovered, at the depth of thirty-six feet, large quantities of living, frogs : the rock ap- peared to be a solid mass, without any passage through which the animals could be supposed to have entered. There are some remarkable caves in the lime- stone district, as is generally the case where this rock prevails. At Shandon is one of considerable extent, and another at Colligan. In the parish of Whitechurch are two immense caverns, situated near each other ; one of them, called Oon-a-glour, is of great size, and is divided into two chambers. In the inner one may be seen a small stream, which sinks under ground at Ballinacourty, and after passing through this cave, is seen again 320 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. above ground at Knockane, after performing a subterraneous course of nearly a mile in length. The other cavern, called Opn-na-mort, is likewise divided into many chambers, and has been occu- pied more than once as a place of religious retire- ment. These, and several other caves which arc found in the calcareous rocks, are probably na- tural formations, produced by the action of water upon the accidental fissures. In the caves at Rinagonah and in the Cummeragh mountains, there are some faint traces of human workman- ship ; the rock out of which they are excavated is clay-slate. In this barony marble is found in several places. Near Kilcrump, in the parish of Whitechurch, there is a black marble without any mixture of white ; and at Ballinacourty there is a grey marble, some specimens of which are very beautiful. At this latter place there are indica- tions of copper. White hard crystals, which do not effervesce in acids, are found in yellow clay here. DECIES WITHIN DRUM.* This barony, the south-western division of the county, is bounded by the sea, by the river Black- water, and by a range of hills called the Drum, which separates the two parts of Decies. It does * Contains the following parishes : — Rinagonah, Ardmore, Kin- salebcg, Aglish^ and part of Kilmolash. COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 321 not appear at what time, or for what reasons, Decies was divided into two baronies ; but it is probable, that the great extent of this portion of the county, and the natural boundary which pre- sented itself in the Drum mountain, suggested the division which took place after 1654, at which period Decies is described as one barony. The Drum mountain comprises a large tract of land, much of it already cultivated, and all capable of considerable improvement. The summit is table- land, extending about twelve miles in length and from four to five miles in breadth, and contains nearly 25,000 acres ; and all this vast space, though perhaps not unclaimed, is confessedly not the acknowledged property of any individual. — There are several opinions respecting the ancient allocation of this property : it is supposed by some that it belonged to the proprietors of the sur- rounding estates, who enjoyed this land in com- mon; others imagine that, in consequence of its little value, it was entirely neglected at the time of distribution; while a favourite notion among the common people is, that it was reserved by Queen Anne for the relief of the poor of Ireland. Parcels of this land have, from time to time, been added to the adjacent property; but a more important appropriation has been made by strangers, beggars, and outcasts from other places, who have built huts or hovels, cultivated a small portion of ground, and tlms recurring to 322 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. original principles, are now the undisputed and indisputable lords of the soil, freeholders by the most ancient, if not the best of all titles, the law of nature. The improvement and final settlement of this tract of country is a matter well worthy the se- rious attention of the government. The numerous population who now reside on and near this moun- tain are peaceable and industrious, and though far removed from the terrors of the law, unstained by any portion of that crime which, strange to say, generally pervades the richest and most cultivated districts. The tenants of this wild heath, though suspicious of strangers, and impatient of opposition or encroachment, are kind and hospitable in their manners, and zealous in proffering their services to those who visit them, when perfectly convinced that their object is not to strip them of their rights. Still it would be absurd to imagine, that the almost total freedom from restraint which exists here may not, on some future occasion, ge- nerate disturbance ; and equally unreasonable would it be to expect that smuggling, and other illicit practices, should not prevail on a wild and unprotected coast. The interests of the poor peo- ple who have settled on this mountain, should be scrupulously regarded; while, at the same time, means should be employed to bring them and their possessions within the range and the protec- tion of the laws. To effect these desirable ob- COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 323 jects, it would be sufficient, to remove anxiety and suspicion, by confirming- the rights of the present occupiers, and by such a distribution of direct and cross-roads as would render every part of the district completely accessible. The improvement of this common must be a national work ; the ex- penditure which would be required is beyond the means of individuals, and the place is too re- motely situated to be an object of great import- ance to the county. It is true, that the landed proprietors who have properties near the moun- tain, would derive great benefit from increased facilities of communication ; but this should be an additional inducement to undertake the task, if it could be made to appear that the advantages likely to accrue from it would not be entirely local. The barony of Decies within Drum is, as it were, cut off from the rest of the county, and is only accessible by a circuitous route, or by at- tempting the mountain-passes, which are imprac- ticable for a loaded carriage. At this time the produce of the land can only be conveyed to the adjoining markets, by sending it coastwise in boats, or by the agency of miserable horses, who carry it on their backs over the almost impassable footways. It would seem that the passage of this Alpine district was not considered so difficult in former times as it is at the present day, when smooth and level roads have introduced the use of 324 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. wheel carriages. The intercourse between the monasteries and other religious houses at Ardmore, Clashmore, and Dungaryan, could not have been conveniently kept up, except by the mountain- roads, which were the direct modes of communi- cation between those places ; and though it may appear strange to us, that the reverend travellers should expose themselves on this mountain to a motion so unsuitable to their age and habits, yet we can have no reason to question the fact, when we are reminded, that this road, though not an easy, was yet a royal, one, and was the line in which King John and his courtiers travelled, when business or pleasure induced them to cross this part of the county. In the parish of Aglish, at a short distance from Clashmore, are the ruins of an ancient square building, called Clough, which, it is said. King John used as a resting-place in his journies between Cork and Waterford. Clough was a regular fortification, and consisted of a high wall defended by towers at the angles : the en- trance, which was protected by a drawbridge, was on the south side; the exterior wall inclosed about half an acre. Amongst the numerous an- cient edifices, the remains of which are still discernible in this neighbourhood, may be men- tioned the abbey of Clashmore, which was found- ed by Cuanchear, at the command of Mochoemore of Lethmore, who had raised Cuanchear from the dead: that Saint died 13th of March, A.D. 655. COUNTY OF AVATERFORD. 325 The northern face of the mountain bears ample testimony to the correctness of the remark, that slate districts are favourable to cultivation. — ■ Wherever there is an open space, the plough has been brought into operation, and universally w^ith successful results. Almost the entire extent of coast from Dungarvan to Youghal is abrupt and precipitous, or what is termed iron-bound. The danger to navigation is perhaps equally great in those places where the land declines to the sea, as at Ardmore. The country between the mountain and the sea is naturally fertile ; and notwithstanding the disadvantages under which it labours, the soil is tolerably well cultivated. The village of Ard- more is situated on the sea-coast, at the west of the bay or harbour of the same name : it com- mands a fine view of the ocean, and enjoys a magnificent beach of great extent and smooth- ness. The parish of Ardmore was anciently a place of some consequence, the favourite retreat of St. Declan, the friend and companion of St. Patrick. According to tradition, Ardmore was an episcopal see, established in the fifth century by St. Declan, whose fame and sanctity are still venerated here. St. Declan was born in this county, and was of tlie family of the Desii : he travelled for education to Rome, and resided there for some years; he was afterwards ordained by the Pope, and re- turned to his own country about the year 402, at 32G TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. which time he founded an abbey and was made Bishop of Ardmore ; he lived to a great age ; and his successor, St. Ultan, was alive in the year 550. A stone, a holy well, and a dormitory in the churchyard still bear the name of St. Declan. " St. Declan's stone" is on the beach; it is a large rock, resting on two others which elevate it a little above the ground. On the 24th of July, the festival of the saint, numbers of the lowest class do penance on their bare knees around the stone, and some, with great pain and difficulty, creep under it, in expectation of thereby curing or preventing, what it is much more likely to create, rheumatic affections of the back. In the churchyard is the " dormitory of St. Declan," a small low building, held in great veneration by the people in the neighbourhood, who frequently visit it in order to procure some of the earth, which is supposed to cover the relics of the saint. This edifice, which is extremely plain in appear- ance, was repaired and roofed about a century ago, at the expense of Bishop Milles. " St. Declan's Well" is near the ruins of the church, at some little distance from the village. The principal object of interest at Ardmore is the round tower, that opprobrium of antiquaries about which so many conflicting opinions have been advanced, and concerning which nothing has been satisfactorily proved, except the almost total ignorance which exists touching the origin and object of these buildings. The arguments of Jjondon .FiiblisJud iu JoTul 24iirrai/.Julv 1S2^. COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 327 all the modern writers on the round tower of Ire- land being more calculated to overturn the hy- potheses of others, than to support the con- jectures which they have themselves advanced, it becomes necessary to abandon all idea of de- termining what these edifices were, and to rest satisfied with knowing what they were not. They were not intended as places of security to which, in case of sudden alarm, the clergy might retire with their vestments, plate, and valuables, for they are too contracted to serve this purpose, and it is plain, that persons pent up in so narrow a cell must soon be starved into a surrender. They were not erected for watch-towers, for many of them are in low situations, and, in some instances, two or more of them are found very near toge- ther, which circumstances completely destroy this notion. They were not fire-towers dedicated to the worship of Baal or the Sun, for their con- struction does not seem adapted to hold a fire perpetually burning on the summit. They were not penitentiary towers, in imitation of the co- lumns of Simeon the Stylite and his disciples; there are several points of disagreement between them. The miserable occupant of the column was exposed to public view, subjected to the incle- mency of the weather, and must have endured almost inconceivable misery. The tenant of the tower was too securely and comfortably lodged, to be considered as undergoing a rigid penance or mortification. Besides, such solid and elabo- 328 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. rate structures were far beyond these assigned purposes, and instead of one, they could easily have accommodated a dozen anchorites. That they were not intended as belfries is easily proved, by shewing that they were anterior to the use of bells in churches ; and for the edification of those who can resist this argument, it may be added, that several churches which were erected close to the towers had steeples or belfries of their own. To enable me to lay some slight claim to the enviable title of an antiquary, I shall offer, as a conjecture, that the round towers had some connection with the superstition which prevailed here at the pe- riod of the introduction of Christianity into Ireland, and that its early propagators endeavoured to avail themselves of the prejudices of the people, by erecting their places of worship in the vicinity of the ancient relis^ious monuments. That the Christian missionaries attempted to advance their cause in this manner, appears from the interesting fact, that many of the very ancient churches were erected near the Druidic altars, where the people were accustomed to assemble for the purpose of religious worship. A striking instance of this association is given in the account of the altar in the churchyard near Sugar-loaf Hill in the barony Gaultier. Having done with conjectures, it will be some relief to add a few facts. — The round towers were not built by the Danes, but were long anterior to their settlement in this country ; and they were subsequently used COUXTY OF WATERFOIID. 329 as belfries, for which purpose they were well adapted. The round tower of Ardmore is a beautiful building, composed of cut stones accurately fitted and cemented: it is about ninety feet high, ta- pering from the base, where the diameter is fifteen feet, to the roof, which consists of a few feet of stone-work meeting in a point. This tower dif- fers from some others in having bands or breaks in the exterior wall, and not exactly tapering from top to bottom : it is divided into four stories, having a window in each, and the entrance is about sixteen feet from the ground. The church, which was built near the round tower, and which anciently derived a degree of sanctity from it, is now almost entirely gone to decay ; a part of the chancel only being kept in repair and used for divine worship. Tovvci 330 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. The church was a magnificent building-, highly decorated with carved work, and still exhibits in its ruins evident traces of former splendour. A fine Saxon arch, which divided the chancel from the nave, still remains, and denotes the order of the architecture as well as the antiquity of the building. On the exterior of the walls, there are some well carved figures cut in free-stone, which, with a good imagination and some knowledge of the ancient scriptures, may be made to exhibit an epitome of the history of the Old Testament. — Very accurate representations of these figures are annexed. The ruins of another church are to be seen on the projecting headland, which forms the western termination of the bay. This beautifully situated building, which combines a romantic site with other interesting associations, is in a most ruinous condition, having few traces of ornament or pe- culiar architecture to illustrate its early history. It is one of those structures which the common people love, probably because it has nothing to recommend it to strangers, and because its very worthlessness has preserved it entirely to them- selves : it is remote from any public road or thoroughfare, and seldom visited except by those whom a secret instinct attaches to the place. Still, though fallen and in ruins, this temple is not deserted by the class of persons for whose use it was originally intended : a few fragments of broken arches give note of former magnificence. To face p. 330. /^ COUXTY OF WATERFORD. 331 while vessels intended for religious uses, a clear stream, and a well, reputed holy, draw together the descendants of the ancient worshippers, and excite in their minds melancholy and painful feelings while they meditate on what they con- sider the faded glory of their country. The part of the barony which is in the vicinity of Youghal, is much improved ; and were there a bridge across the Blackwater at this place, great advantages might be anticipated from an increased facility of communication with the county of Cork. Several plans and estimates have been prepared, and it is more than probable that this important public work will be speedily accomplished. The river Bricky, which flows along the northern side of the Drum mountain, bounds the limestone formation which extends from Lismore to Dungarvan. The mountain is principally com- posed of clay-slate, over which red sand-stone and white sand-stone occur. Vast fissures made by winter-torrents, in several places, shew that the beds of sand-stone are of considerable depth, lying in rather irregular masses, and only par- tially assuming a stratified appearance. Near the summit of the mountain, the white sand-stone partakes of a slaty structure, and when split ex- hibits the appearance of leaves and fern branches, probably occasioned by the presence of a small portion of iron. Conglomerate is seen scattered about in large irregular fragments, but is no \ 2 332 TOPOGHAPIIY AND ANTIQUrriES. where found in situ. Between the mountain and the sea, limestone again occurs, probably a por- tion of the formation before-mentioned, and only separated from it by the elevation of the land. The limestone extends into the sea. The junc- tion of the limestone with the slate was originally marked by a small stream, which has since been diverted from its course. Mineral veins, contain- ing lead, iron, and copper ore, were formerly worked in this barony, and are said to have been very productive. Iron mines were opened in several places : at Minehead, so called from the adjacent works, and at Ardmore, very valuable metal was procured, which was afterwards con- verted into steel, and was highly esteemed. It appears from a note in the first Earl of Cork's diary, that his iron mines at Ardmore were let, in 1636, at 50/. per annum. Copper and lead mines were also worked at Ardmore, and from the frag- ments which are still found, it is supposed that the ores are very rich. COSHMORE AND COSHIIRIDE.* The barony of Coshmore and Coshbride, the most western division, has been called the garden of the county ; and if cultivation and picturesque scenery can entitle it to this distinction, the name is not improperly applied. * ('ontains six parishes — Lismorc, Mocollop, Tallow, Kilvva- tcrnioy, Kilcockan, uml Temple Midiacl. In lfir>4, this barony was divitlcd into five parishes. COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 333 The navigable river Blackwater, anciently called Avonmore and Broadwater, and famous in the time of Ptolemy, who calls it Daurona and Necham, takes a winding course through this barony, and contributes to the beauty of the country, as well as to the convenience of its in- habitants. The Blackwater rises in the county of Kerry, and, after a course of about forty miles, enters this county at its western boundary. The course of the river from this place is due east, until it reaches the town of Cappoquin, from whence it proceeds in a southern direction until it meets the sea at the harbour of Youghal. The Blackwater is navigable for vessels of con- siderable tonnage as far as the bridge of Cappo- quin, and might, without much difficulty, admit ships to a greater distance. A canal was cut at the expense of the late Duke of Devonshire to facilitate the communication with Lismore, but the navigation is every day becoming more diffi- cult, which may be attributed to the checks given to the current by the erection of bridges, and also to the greater extension of the bed of the stream. On the banks of the Blackwater, and to the southward of that river, the land is fertile, and the face of the country highly improved ; but to the northward, there is a range of lofty hills which bounds this barony, and separates it from the county of Tipperary. The place of greatest consequence here is Lis- more, formerly ranked ainon;;st the most floiuish- 334 TOPOGRAPHY AXD ANTIQUITIES. ing cities in Ireland, the seat of science and learning-, the birth-place of Congreve, Boyle, and the ingenious Henry Eeles, and the school from which, it is believed, Alfred derived the knowledge which has since immortalized his name. In the year 636 Lismore was a bishop's see, and had a famous school of philosophy established by St. Carthagh, who, in the holy days of Easter, was driven out of Rathenin in the county of West- meath, and took sanctuary here. An old writer thus describes this place: " Lessmor is a famous and holy city, half of which is an asylum, into which no woman dares enter ; but it is full of cells and holy monasteries ; and religious men in great numbers abide there : and thither holy men flock together from all parts of Ireland ; and not only from Ireland, but also from England and Britain, being desirous to remove from thence to Christ." The school of Lismore continued in high repute for many years, and was visited by '* prodigious numbers both from the neighbouring and remote countries." Many of the bishops of this see were men remarkable for religious austerity, as well as for learning and sanctity, and it was through their influence that the rigid discipline of the monastic orders was observed. The rules of the abbey of regular canons founded by St. Carthagh were particularly severe. When any of the monks returned from a mission, it was the custom to kneel down before the abbot, and in that humble posture relate the events which had occurred : all COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 335 kinds of severities were practised here, and their food was restricted to vegetables which they cultivated with their own hands. Subsequent to the arrival of Henry II. the bishops were usually nominated by the Crown, and generally through the influence of the Pope ; though, on some occa- sions, on the death of the bishop, the king granted a license to the Dean and Chapter to elect a suc- cessor to the see. The Bishops of Waterford and Lismore had continual quarrels and jealousies, and, as opportunity offered, plundered the pro- perty of the rival sees, until at length these dis- putes were terminated by the junction of the two bishoprics, which were consolidated by what is called a real union, in 363, by Pope Urban V. which union was confirmed by King Edward III. on the 7th of October of that year. There were many, some say twenty, churches in Lismore, of which the ruins of seven were dis- cernible a few years since; but all the ancient buildings of this ungallant city are now entirely removed, except the cathedral and the castle. The Cathedral, erected by St. Carthagh in G3G, is situated on high ground in the immediate vicinity of the Blackwater ; it is shaped like a cross, the grand entrance looking towards the south. There is reason to think that tlie cathe- dral of Lismore escaped the destructive fires and plunderings which the city experienced after the time of St. Carthagh, as it a})pears that on every calamitous occasion, the bisiiops used every exer- 33G TOPOGllAPIIV AND ANTIQUITrES. tion to preserve the church; and particularly in the year 1173, when Raymond and Earl Richard wasted and plundered the Decies, the plunderers extorted a large sum of money from the prelate who then governed the see, to prevent the cathe- dral from being burned. However, shortly after, an accidental fire wholly consumed Lismore, and involved almost all the churches in the ruin. The cathedral was again repaired, and plun- dered, at various times ; and, at length, in the rebellion of Munster, was almost totally demo- lished by Edmund Fitzgibbon, called the White Knight, in which state it continued until it was re-edified in 1633, at the expense of the Earl of Cork. The cathedral of Lismore was originally constructed in the Saxon style; the windows were narrow, terminated with circular arches, each surmounted with a small window in shape like a circle. These round windows were also over the entrance, and at the extremities of the transepts. This style of architecture, which was generally used in our very ancient buildings, and which is, of itself, strongly indicative of antiquity, has, with singularly bad taste, been replaced by the florid Gothic, which, though beautiful, does not harmonize with the general appearance of the place. The alterations and repairs which were commenced about ten years since, have as yet only advanced to the completion of one transept and the exterior entrance, giving a most incou- COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 337 gruoiis appearance to the building, part of it being in the Saxon, and part in the Gothic style. Divine service is performed in the place newly- fitted up, which, taken by itself, is a beautiful little church. Over the entrance, and beneath a pure Saxon arch, a handsome organ has been erected : the windows are of stained glass, richly and exquisitely executed, the work of a native artist, George M'Alister of Dublin, who devoted his youth and talents to discover the lost art of painting on glass, and who died at an early age, after having made himself master of the secret. The pulpit and the seats for the chapter are of black oak, neatly carved. The walls of the in- terior of the building are faced with a beautiful sandstone, quite equal in beauty to Portland stone, and apparently much more durable. Only one ancient monument has escaped the ravages of time : it is a highly-ornamented tomb, which was originally raised above the ground, but is now laid flat, and surrounded by the side stones. The date, 1548, is legible; but the in- scription, which runs round the stone, can be only very partially deciphered : 3101)021 ^'CBvatl) iiuoc IxiUljcriua Cljornc. 1548. On the side stones are figures of the Apostles in lii^di relief: tlie upper stone is splendidly de- corated and divided iiito comj)artments, in which 338 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. various characters and devices are represented. The most intelligible are, a heart pierced with swords — beneath, the words Ave Maria — a figure of our Saviour, with the motto Ecce Homo — and a character dressed in bishop's robes offering up the host. This tomb is in the unfinished tran- sept. The castle of Lismore, which was erected on the site of an ancient abbey, was built by King- John in the year 1185. It was afterwards taken by the Irish, and was for many years the epis- copal residence, until Miler Magrath, Archbishop of Cashel and Bishop of this see, granted it, to- gether with the manor of Lismore, to Sir Walter Raleigh, from whom this and other property was purchased by Sir Richard Boyle, afterwards Earl of Cork. The annals of the castle are so inti- mately interwoven with the history of this remark- able personage, it will be necessary to dwell a little on his character and the principal events of his life. Amongst the manuscripts at Lismore Castle, is the diary of this extraordinary man, in which he kept a regular journal of almost every occurrence in which he was concerned. The par- ticulars of his arrival in Ireland are well known : they are related in his journal with a minuteness which is quite characteristic, and with a conscious feeling of the powers which could construct a noble fortune with the most trifling means. His talents and industry soon procured him wealth COUl^TY OF WATERFORD. 339 and honours, and raised him to situations of the greatest importance in the administration of the affairs of Ireland. To compensate his otherwise good fortune, it may be remarked, that he passed his life in a continued warfare, at one time assailed by the partizans of government, and nearly at the same moment engaged in regular war with the acknowledged rebels of the country. A few extracts from the voluminous manuscripts preserved at Lismore Castle will best illustrate the character of the Earl of Cork, and the times in which he lived. *' 1643, May 28. This Sunday morning about two o'clock, 200 rebels, with a party of horse, (in revenge that my son Francis, with the forces of Lismore, had, the Friday evening before, taken, plundered, and burned the town of Clogheen, and brought Luke Everard and another of that name, with one Mr.Englys, the freeholder of Rochestown, prisoners home with him,) for want of good works, they secretly, before it was day, entered the town of Lismore, burnt most of the thatched houses and cabbins in the town, to the outgate of my castle. Took Brian Cavenagh the portrieve, Garrett Fitz Eustace Roch, my servant John O'Donovan, and two soldiers away with them prisoners: burnt my alms-houses, killed Moricc Roche and old Pollard, being two of my almsmen, and about sixty of my Irish tenants, men, women, and childrcMi, and hurt many more, as Peter Baker and his wife. 340 TOrOGItAPIIY AM) ANTTQUITFES. " 1G43, June 3. Sir Charles Vavasour with his regiment of foot, and my son Franeis with the troop of horse, gained with baterry the strong castle of Cloghlagh in Condon s country, and put all the rebels therein to the sword ; for which good achievment God make us all thankful. " 1643, July 10. This day the rebel Lieutenant General Purcell, commanding again in chief, in revenge of his former defeat received at Cappo- quin, reinforced his army to 7,000 foot and 900 horse, with three pieces of ordnance, and drew again near to Cappoquin, and there continued four days, wasting and spoiling the country round about, but attempted nothing of any consequence. And when the 22d at night, that the Lord Vis- count Muskrie came to the Irish army with some addition of new forces, they removed from Cappo- quin in the night, before my castle of Lismore, and on Sunday morning the 23d July, 1643, they began their battery from the church to the east of Lismore-house, and made a breach into my own house, which Captain Broadripp and my warders, being about 150, repaired stronger with earth than it was before, and shot there till the Thursday the 27th, and never durst attempt to enter the breach, my ordnance and musket-shot from my castle did so apply them. Then they re- moved their battery to the south-west of my castle, and continued beating against my orchard-wall, but never adventured into my orchard, my shot from COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 341 my turrets did so continually beat and clear the curteyn of the wall. The 28th of July, God sent my two sons, Dungarvan and Broghill, to land at Youghal, out of England, and the 29th they rode to the Lord of Inchiquin's, who with the army were drawn to Tallagh, and staid there in expec- tation of Colonel Peyn, with his regiment from Tymolay, who failed to join, but Inchiquin, Dun- garvan and Broghill, and Sir John Powlett, the Saturday in the evening, (upon some other direc- tions brought over by Dungarvan from his Ma- jesty,) he made a treaty that evening with Mus- krie and others, and the Sunday the 30th, they agreed upon a cessation for six days. Monday night, when they could not enter my house, they removed their sieige and withdrew the ordnance and army .... two or three barrels of powder . . . two or three pieces of ordnance of twenty-three pounds, and killed but one of my side, God be praised. " 1643, August 10. Brian Cavenagh, Portrieve of Lismore, having been taken prisoner at the burning of my town, was enlarged by exchange of another prisoner of theirs, but returning home pillaged and stripped, I gave him a doublet, breeches, and stockings, and a new coat made for my own wearing, garnished down before with .silver buttons and gold fringe work, that I had never worn. 342 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. Regno Eliz. Regin. et Jacobi primi Regis. Copie of a Particular of part (f tlie Jirst Earl (f Corke's ComonweallJis Workes, performed by him for the service of the Crozon and good of the Comrnonzceallh and of the province of Munster zoherein he resided. Imprimis, The Earl of Corke hath re-edified the great decayed church of Yoiighal, wherein the townsmen in time of rebellion kept their cows, and hath erected a new chappel there in, and made it one of the fairest churches in Ireland. He hath also new built the College-house of Youghal, and added five turrets thereunto, and raised platforms of earth fit to plant any ordnance upon, which may command the town and harbour. He hath formed a faire free school there, and built convenient lodgings for the schoolmaster and usher, and erected there an almshouse for old decayed soldiers, which are filled, and hath given of his own lands in perpetuity of the clear yearly value of fourscore pounds a year for their mainte- nance. He hath built four incorporate and market-towns, which before were waste places without any habi- tations, and planted them all with English inha- bitants of the religion, viz. Tallaugh, in which he hath built a new church and chancel, a sessions- house, a market-house, and a strong prison. 2. Lismore, wherein he hath re-edified the demo- lished chancel of the cathedral church. 3. Clogh- COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 343 nikilty, wherein he hath built a fair new church, and made a plantation all of English Protestants. Bandonbridge, which twenty years past was a great many woods, he hath now made an English towne there, and hath built two fair new churches two sessions-houses, two market-houses, and a strong prison in the same, and compasses the town round about with a strong wall of lime and stone, it being of a far greater length, strength, and circuit than the city of Corke is, and hath fortified the town wall with six turrets and three strong large castles, and furnished them with ordnance, and fully inhabited it all with English Protestants and tradesmen, to the great strength and comfort of all the western parts of Munster, all these four new corporations send two bur- gesses apiece to Parliament, all Protestants. He hath built and erected thirteen new castles in and upon the streights of his seigniories and English plantations, viz. one at Ballinetry, one at Corneveagh, one at the Parke, one at Inchiquin, one at Ballyknock, one at Agharnin, one at Shane, one at Ballyduff, one at Corbegh, one at Bally- garron, one at Ballyin, one at Cappoquin, one at Innesheane, besides the three castles at Lismore, and the great strengths there and at Youghal, all of his buildings, which are large and fit for garri- sons, to command and secure all those parts of the country. He hath built four stately bridges, viz. two 344 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. bridges over the great river of the Bride, one at Tallough, the other at Connotry, and two other bridges over the river Blackwater, whereof one at Fermoy, the other at Cappoquin. The work- manship of which bridges, besides all the mate- rials, cost him between eleven and twelve hun- dred pounds, and by building those bridges he hath lost the rent of his several ferries, which is eight and thirty pounds per annum, for ever. He is able (as the Lord Deputy hath seen mus- tered before him) out of his new plantations about Tallough, to bring into the field, for his Majesty's service and defence of those parts of the country, one thousand foot and one hundred horse, and at and about his plantations about Bandonbridge eight hundred foot and sixty horse well armed, all English, and of the religion, with able cap- tains and officers of his own tenants to command them. He payeth every week in the year two hun- dred pounds for wages to workmen, and there is maintained by the money that goes out of his purse to labourers four thousand people, young and old, on his lands and plantations, to the great benefit of the commonwealth. Upon the Lords of the Cc^uncil in England, letters, he lent in ready money, for his Majesty's use, to clear the great necessities of the fleet soldiers which arrived in Munster, one thousand l)uunds, and when the forts at Corke and Water- o sl.H MO UK CA^y'-il.. iK; COUXTY OF WATERFORD. 345 ford, last year before they were defensible, were at a stand for want of money, he lent other five hundred pounds, wherewith they were again undertaken and made tenable. " Lastly, he never had acre of land, pension, ward, entertainment, or other matter of benefit, given him from the late King or Queen, or from the state in Ireland, neither ever was a suitor for any such benefit or gift." The castle of Lismore is one of the most mag- nificent of the ancient Irish residences, and is seen to great advantage from being built on a very elevated situation on the verge of a hill, the river Blackwater running close to the foundation. The circular towers which flank the northern front are partly concealed by trees, which seem to grow out of the river, and which throw into shade large intervals of the rocky base of the building ; these remarkable objects, combined with the abrupt position of the castle which is seen hanging over the dark and rapid stream, compose a romantic and striking picture which has scarcely ever been adequately represented. The first door-way is called the riding-house, from its being originally built to accommodate two horse- men who mounted guard, and for whose recep- tion there were two spaces which are still visible under the archway. The riding-house is the en- trance into a long avenue shaded by magnificent z 346 TOPOGRAIMIV AND ANTIQU ITI I-S. trees, and flanked with high stone walls ; this leads to another doorway, the keep or grand entrance into the square of the casjtle. Over the gate are the arms of the first Earl of Cork, with the motto " God's providence is our inheritance." The castle and its precincts were regularly fortified, and covered a large space of ground, the bounds of which may still be traced by the existing walls and towers. It is highly interesting to examine the various parts of the defences so minutely and vividly represented in the first Earl of Cork's diary. " My orchard," and " my garden," and " the turrets, which did so continually beat and clear the curteyn of the wall," all are religiously preserved, and have been recently brought into view and cleared of the obstructions which time and neglect had accumulated about them. The great square of the castle has rather an unfinished appearance, and, from the introduc- tion of modern doors and windows, oifends against all the rules of uniformity and architectural con- sistency. The sombre appearance of the build- ings around the square is admirably contrasted with the interior of the castle. The rooms are fitted up with all the convenience of modern im- provement ; the doors are of Irish oak of great thickness and beauty; and the windows, composed of large squares of glass, each pane opening on hinges, combine accommodation with harmony of appearance. The drawing-rooms are ornamented COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 347 with tapestry, and contain some good oil paint- ings. One of the towers is still retained in its rude and dilapidated state, serving as a contrast to the modern adornments, as well as showing the great ingenuity and taste which have been dis- played in combining the luxuries of the present day with the romantic beauties of so ancient a building. An anecdote which is told of James II., who is said to have visited the castle and dined in the great room, has given one of the windows the name of King James's window. It is said, that on look- ing out of this window, the agitated monarch was so struck at perceiving the vast height at which he stood and the rapid river running beneath him, that he started back with evident dismay. To look unexpectedly upon the river immediately under the apartment, is indeed a startling pros- pect, and might naturally excite surprise from the great depth of the rear of the building com- pared with the level ground at the entrance. From King James's window, and more particu- larly from the flat roof of the castle, the view is magnificent and beautiful. The eye embraces a vast extent of country, and receives the impres- sion of a splendid picture, realizing all the vivid colouring, and all the variety and contrast, which the imagination of a painter only can conceive. Directly in front is the mountain of Knock- meledown, towering above the range of lofty hills z 2 348 TOrOCMlAIMlV and AXTIQIITIK.S. which stretch away to the eastward : a thickly planted ravine, with rude projecting masses of rock appearing through the foliage, serves to guide the eye from the mountain to the level ground, and connects the wildness of nature with the cultivation and improvements of man. On the right is Cappoquin, with its church spire rising above the houses and its light bridge crossing the Blackwater. The rich vale through which the river flows is thickly planted and orna- mented with several handsome residences. To the left of Lismore there is much natural and pic- turesque beauty of situation, as well as many highly improved demesnes : amongst others is Balleen, a delightful place belonging to Dean Scott. It is a relief to the mind to wander through the garden ground of this charming spot; it is true we miss the grandeur, antiquity and magni- ficence of Lismore Castle, but the neatness, taste and simplicity exhibited here are worth them all. The view of the surrounding country has a noble termination in the lofty hills seen indistinctly in the distance, exhibiting a dark and irregular out- line, and by the contrast adding to the richness of the scenery nearer to the spectator. The mountain of Knockmeledown, in form re- sembling a sugar loaf, is situated about four miles to the north of Lismore, and separates the north- western extremity of this county from the county of Tipperary. As you approach the mountain. COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 349 the height of which is about 2,700 feet, the ascent appears most easy on the western side ; the northern face is nearly perpendicular : half way up the mountain, a slate quarry has been opened. From the summit the view is magnificent, extend- ing in every direction as far as the eye can reach. To the north, the Rock of Cashel and the cathe- dral are distinctly visible : to the south, the ocean, the harbours of Dungarvan and Youghal, and a great extent of sea-coast may also be observed. About the middle of the last century, there were red deer on this mountain, but they have been long since driven away. The plant called Lon- don-pride grows here. The summit of this moun- tain is remarkable as being the burial-place of the ingenious Henry Eeles, who published many papers on electricity. In his principal work, which appeared in the form of Letters from Lis- more, and was printed in Dublin in 1771, he claims the credit of discovering the identity of electricity and lightning. According to his own directions, Henry Eeles was buried on the highest part of Knockmeledown, with his horse and dog. Lismore, once a celebrated city, became after- wards a neglected and miserable village, con- sisting of a few hovels, and without any trace of its former magnificence, except what might be gathered from the ruins of the castle and tlu' church. It continued in this state lor many 350 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. years, and is thus represented about the mid- dle of the last century. Since that time, the Duke of Devonshire has expended large sums in improving and beautifying the tow^n and precincts of Lismore, and, by the greatest liberality to his tenantry, has entirely removed all the grounds of complaint taken notice of by Wakefield and other writers. The bridge, which was built at the sole expense of the late Duke of Devon- shire, in 1775, is one hundred feet in the span of the arch. The present Duke has erected a most convenient sessions-house and gaol, a commodious inn and offices, and contributes largely to all the charitable institutions. There are six alms-houses at Lismore founded by the first Earl of Cork, for decayed Protestant soldiers, with an annual stipend for each. There are also extensive poor schools, one for boys and another for girls, built and supported by the Duke of Devonshire, but placed under the inspection of the Hibernian School Society, who add a donation to the master and mistress. The classical school at Lismore, originally endowed by the first Lord Cork, has been much enlarged and improved by the present Duke. A new school-room has been built ; and an extensive play-ground and garden inclosed, with a ball-court, &c. have been added. The establishment is now under the management of the Rev. Mr. Stokes. The Duke of Devon- COUNTY OF WATERFOKD. 351 shire, who occasionally visits this country, has an able representative in Colonel Curry, whose residence is the castle of Lismore. To have a few such absentees and so represented would be extremely fortunate for Ireland. Lismore is now a thriving town, and, if we may judge from the spirit of building which prevails, and from the many new streets now in progress, the trade and wealth of the inhabitants are evi- dently increasing. Under the castle there is a very extensive salmon fishery, where, during the season, great abundance of fish is taken daily and exported, packed in ice, to Liverpool and other distant places. Any fish taken in the inclosures, above the number required, are driven into a space divided off", where they may be had at a. short notice; and, in addition to this, there are two or three wooden boxes, from which they may be taken without the delay of a minute. Eight hun- dred fish are sometimes taken at one time. The road between Lismore and Cappoquin, on the northern bank of the Blackwater, runs along the base of a range of hills which skirts the river. This neighbourhood is highly improved, and, for romantic scenery, may bear a comparison with the most, celebrated places. Throughout the whole way, the road is overarched with the finest timber trees, giving the aj)pearancc of a riding through a magnificent demesne. At various 3.32 TOPOGUAPilV AND ANTIQUITIES. places there are deep ravines crossing the range of hills : one of these, called the valley of Glen- ribbon, which separates the properties of the Duke of Devonshire and Mr. Chearnley, is thickly planted on the right, and, winding between the hills, runs up a considerable distance from the road ; the view from the elevation which termi- nates this valley will amply repay the labour of ascending it. A very excellent slate quarry has been worked here for thirteen years, giving con- stant employment to nine men. The slate is of good quality, splitting easily into large and smooth planes, almost equal in size and appearance to ton slates. There are other quarries of the same material in the vicinity ; one of these, opposite to the bridge of Lismore, has been worked for a great length of time. The supply of slates does not exceed the demand, which, from the contiguity of water-carriage, may be supposed to be considerable. The bed of roof-slate, which is not of any great thickness, rests upon a coarse clay slate : above the roof- slate is a rock of a siliceous nature ; higher up is a bed of conglomerate, consisting of imbedded siliceous particles, and above these is sandstone, varying from a fine building material resembling Portland stone, to a coarse soft rock, having the appearance of indurated sand. On the summit of the hills is a bed of fine sand, which, at Mr. Chearnley's and at Lismore, is of great extent. COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 353 At the latter place, immediately opposite the bridge, a bank of sand is exposed, many hundred feet in height, and so steep and inaccessible that great flocks of swallows have taken possession of the higher parts, in which to build their nests securely. The river may be considered the boundary of the preceding formations, although the limestone which occurs at the other side is found at some depth at Saltibridge, and probably under the sand opposite Lismore. The component parts of the hills in this part of the county, though varying in some slight particulars, may generally be classed according to the preceding imperfect description : in some places, the siliceous slate is wanting, and in others the sandstone is red ; but the general character of the dift'erent formations is nearly similar to those already mentioned. There is something extremely curious in the detached masses of sand which occur here and in some other parts of the county, and which are generally found resting on limestone. The round hill near Lismore is a singular instance of these formations. The rocks in this district are rich in mineral productions ; iron, copper and lead ores are of frequent occurrence, and have, at remote periods, engaged the attention of the pro- prietors of the soil. The great obstacle to the progress of mining pursuits in this county, and which has either discouraged or iinj)eded sucli undertakings, has been a want of fuel ; tiiis want 354 TOPOGHAPHV AND ANTIQUITIES. and a deficiency of capital have long rendered the vast mineral treasures of the county totally un- available. Lead ore is found at the bridge of Lismore ; and iron in many places, particularly at Araglin, at Saltibridge and at Ballinatray, w^here mines were formerly worked by the Earl of Cork. About two miles from Lismore is the village of Cappoquin, situated on the northern bank of the Blackwater, where the course of the river de- scribes a right angle, in its progress to the sea. There is a wooden bridge here, which is shortly to be replaced by a stone one. Cappoquin possesses nothing worthy of par- ticular notice, except a new church, ornamented with a neat spire, and a Roman Catholic chapel, which stands immediately contiguous to it. — It is in contemplation, when the new bridge is completed, to open a line of road on the bank of the river, leading directly to Youghal. At Kil- bree may still be seen some remains of an ancient castle built by King John : it was situated on an eminence which commands the river, and might in former times have been a place of strength. Contiguous to this place is the Deer Park of Lismore, formerly entirely inclosed by high walls, and still partially surrounded by the ruins of its former greatness. A vein of iron ore, running from east to west, passes through this extensive tract, and may be traced by the eye, on account of the sterility occasioned by the proximity of the mineral. COUNTY OF AVATEUFORD. 355 Of New Affane, associated as it is with the recollection of Sir Walter Raleigh, it would be satisfactory to be able to give some detailed in- formation : that it was his property, presented to him by one of the ancient proprietors of Dro- mana, we have unquestionable authority for as- serting ; whether it continued in his possession, and partook of the improvement which his culti- vated taste was so well qualified to bestow upon it, we have not sufficient grounds to enable us to determine. Amongst the traditional wonders of this part of the county, it may not be amiss to mention, without demanding a too implicit credence to the minuter circumstances connected with the narrative, two remarkable works of which the traces are still discernible. The first is a large double trench, called, in Irish, Rian Bo Padriuc, or the trench of St. Patrick's Cow. This road or trench commences eastward of Knockmeledown, passes through the Deer Park of Lismore, and, crossing the Blackwater near Tourin, where the remains of laborious workmanship may still be seen, proceeds in a direct line to Ardmore. — There is an unfortunate discrepancy in the tra- ditions concerning this curious trench ; some as- serting that it was the work of St. Patrick's cow, on her way to Ardmore, in search of her calf which had been stolen, while others are more in- clined to believe that the cow had been carried 356 TOPOGUAPIIV AND ANTIQUITIES. away by thieves to Ardmore, and that her labours commenced there, on her return to her master at Cashel. Without hastily concluding, that " the one story is as probable as the other," as Doctor Smith has ventured to do, it will be satisfactory to hear his ingenious conjecture, which is, " that these ridges were no other than the remains of an ancient highway drawn from Cashel to Ard- more, between which two places there was pro- bably in the time of St. Patrick, and his contem- porary, St. Declan, a frequent communication, and that this road was made by the direction of these Saints, in imitation of the Roman highways, which they must have often met with in their travels." The other traditional wonder alluded to is also a trench, which extends along the sides of the mountains from Cappoquin into the county of Cork, and which, according to the conjecture of Doctor Smith, was a boundary or fence made to preserve the cattle against wolves. At the western extremity of this barony is the town of Tallow, formerly a place of some con- sequence : it was erected into a borough by char- ter, bearing date 10th James I., by which the liberties of the borough were to embrace a circuit of a mile and a half round the church. This town returned two members to the Irish Parliament, and was for many years remarkable for the elec- COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 357 tioneermg contests which occurred here. Since the union, when it ceased to return representa- tives, its trade and industry have constantly de- clined. The appearance of Tallow has very little to re- commend it. The church is a handsome modern building, and there are a few good private houses; but the public buildings, as the market and ses- sions house, and the gaol, are in a state of extreme dilapidation. The gaol consists of two apart- ments, each twenty feet by fifteen : it is a manor gaol, though frequently used as a place of con- finement for persons committed by the magis- trates of the county. There is no day room, no classification, employment or instruction. On some occasions, prisoners committed by the county magistrates are confined here for many weeks. The manor of Tallow is the property of the Duke of Devonshire, by whom the Seneschal of the town is appointed. The seneschal has very rarely occasion to com- mit to prison, and if those confined in Tallow gaol were only those who come within his jurisdiction, the infrequency of commitments, and their limited duration, would preclude the unpleasant conse- quences which may now be naturally expected. It is when considered as a county })rison, that the gaol of Tallow requires investigation and reform. It is understood to be the wish of the Duke of Devon- shire to erect commodious places of confinement 358 TOrOCHAPHY AXD ANTIQUITIES. in this town, and also in Dungarvan, if his grace's enlarged views are met with a corresponding liberality on the part of the gentlemen of the county. In this neighbourhood, perhaps as being the boundary of the county, there were many fortified castles and houses of defence, chiefly the property of the Earls of Desmond. Amongst these, the castle of Strancally holds a distinguished rank, as well on account of its extent and picturesque appearance, as in consequence of the traditional tales recorded of it. The castle of Strancally is situated on a high rock on the bank of the Black- water, which is here of considerable breadth. The castle enjoyed a bold and commanding situa- tion, was fortified, and in every respect a place of strength. From the foundation on which it stood, an extensive subterranean cave, with a passage communicating with the river, was cut through the solid rock, and thus provided, the worthy Lords of Desmond were no contemptible^ imitators of the ancient giants. It was the custom of these gentle lords to invite their wealthy and distin- guished neighbours to partake of the festivities of Strancally ; and having thus gotten them into their power, the victims were carried through the rocky passage into the dungeon, where they were suffered to perish, and from thence, through an opening which is still visible, their corpses were cast into the river : thus disposed of, their fortunes COUXTY OF WATERFORD. 359 became an easy prey. These practices continued for a long time, until at length, one, more fortu- nate than his fellow-prisoners, escaped the final doom, and gave information of the facts to go- vernment. The castle and cave were imme- diately ordered to be demolished by gunpowder. The plate of Strancally Castle in Grose's Antiqui- ties of Ireland, admirably displays the effect of the explosion : the cave is entirely laid open, and one half of the walls of the castle removed, thereby exposing to view the entire arrangement of the interior of the building. The scenery on the banks of the Blackwater, which may be seen most ad- vantageously by descending the river in a boat, is extremely picturesque, and will afford much enjoyment to those who have leisure to inspect it minutely. After passing Strancally, the principal objects to be noticed are Molana, Temple-Michael and Rhincrew. Molana, formerly an island, but now united to the mainland, was the site of an Abbey, belonging to regular canons of St. Augustine, which was established in the sixth century by St. Molanside, who was also the first abbot. On the suppression Queen Elizabeth granted this abbey and its possessions to Sir Walter Raleigh, by whom it was assigned to the Earl of Cork. 360 TOPOGRAPHY AND AKTIQUITrES. GLANAHEIRY.* This barony is of very jimited extent, contain- ing only about 16,531 acres, a great proportion of which is mountain and uncultivated land. The Suir, even here a considerable river, sepa- rates this barony from the county of Tipperary. From near Clonmel to the junction of the Suir and Nier the country is extremely beautiful; and at that part where the demesne of Kilmanehin is separated only by the river from the Earl Do- noughmore's seat, Knocklofty, in the county of Tipperary, nothing can exceed the richness and variety of the scenery. Limestone is found near Kilmanehin, and again at one or two places at the extreme boundary of the county in this direction. The beds are of small extent, and are entirely detached from one another. After leaving Bally M'Kee, where the Suir first enters the county of Waterford, the face of the country still retains the wild and unculti- vated appearance which it probably exhibited when it was the boundary between two hostile districts. Four of the castles, which marked out and protected the limits of the adjoining counties, are still visible: two of them, Castle Conagh, and Castlereagh, are in the county of Waterford : Castle Clonagh and Newcastle are in the county * Contains the commons of Clonmel and the parish of Kihonan. In the year 1654 this barony contained two parishes. COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 3G1 of Tipperary. Castle Conagh is built on a high limestone rock, on the bank of the river Nier. The castle is a square building, and was protected by two round towers at the side next the river. A narrow valley, called the glen of Rossmore, through which the boundary line runs, is com- manded by Castle Clonagh. The former castle, which is square, the form usually adopted by the English, proves that this district was within the pale, while, from the circular shape of Castle Clonagh, it may be conjectured that it was the work of more ancient settlers. As a conclusion to the topographical description of this county, and as tending to confirm a sug- gestion which has been thrown out in another part of this work, the following observations and sugges- tions are offered by a gentleman * w^ho is perfectly conversant with the subject on which he treats, and whose remarks will be found highly deserving the attention of all speculating men: — ox THE PRACTICABILITY OF BANKING IN THE BACK STRAND OF TRAMORE. The general richness and luxuriant verdure of ground embanked from the sea, is so universally known, that very few observations are necessary to press its value and importance on general con- * William Hughes, Esq. A A 362 POPOCiRAPlIV AND A NTIQUITI K!S. sideration. Some of the most valuable lands in England have been inclosed from the ocean, par- ticularly Romney Marsh i.n Kent, which adjoins the Channel, and contains upwards of 24,000 acres. Such is the fertility of its pastures, that they afford to London a considerable weekly supply of two very much-relished necessaries of life — beef and mutton. In many parts of Ireland there are large tracts of ground which might be easily converted into excellent land by embank- ment, and which would not only liberally remu- nerate the proprietors for the expense, but by providing employment for the poor, enable them to earn their subsistence by their own industry ; the most substantial benefit that could be con- ferred on the redundant population of the coun- try. Among those tracts, the back strand of Tra- more, in this county, affords, from its situation and extent, a variety of inducements to embank- ment. Several maps have been made of this strand, which, including the Channel, contains about 1,000 acres. On an examination of these maps, some difference appears in the acreage, which has been occasioned in all probability by the want of accurate information as to the precise boundaries: 1,050 acres is the highest, and 979 the lowest, return of its extent. When it is of such magnitude, the difference of a few acres is immaterial. A very considerable part of this strand is a COUNTY OF WATERFORD, 363 deep, rich composition of fat earths, mixed with dead animal and vegetable substances, which have been accumulating for ages, by the flowing of the tides. It has been repeatedly drawn and laid out as manure on the neiohbourins^ farms. A small part of the strand is sandy, with a slight intermixture of gravel, but the entire would be- come productive after its embankment. It con- tains within itself the means of immediate im- provement : such is the quality of the soil, that (although the tendency of salt-water to extinguish vegetation is well known) the surfaces of particu- lar parts, which are rarely covered at times of high spring tides, become green in the interval between those tides, and bear testimony to its amazing fertility. Part of this strand, containing about forty-five acres, heretofore banked in, be- fore it was neglected and almost destroyed by breaches in the banks ahd by the overflowing of the tides, produced herbage far superior to any found in the neighbourhood, and remarkable for its fattening qualities : no reasonable doubt can therefore be entertained, but that the ground when embanked would be most valuable. Before the depression of all agricultural produce, ground of such a description was seldom let at less than 5/. an acre, and frequently at a much higlier rate. If, therefore, we estimate that the strand, on an average, when properly drained and divided, would bring but half that rent, namely 2/. lOv. an A A 2 364 TOPOGRAPHV and ANXrQUITIES. acre, the income of 1,000 acres, at that rate, would be £2,500 per annum, and would, probably, sell for £50,000 ; for, as, an act of parliament would be necessary for its embankment, the title would be most unexceptionable. The above rent may be considered very moderate, particularly when it is recollected that, from the number of streams running into the strand, freshwater could be introduced into every part of it. From the annexed sketch, which presents a tolerably accurate view of its situation, it appears that there are three places where embankments may be advantageously made. No. 1, direct from the sand-hills, across the channel to Earl For- tescue's estate ; No. 2, from the sand-hills to the projecting point of land adjoining Crobally Pill; and No. 3, from the sand-hills to the glebe of Kilmacleague. The first and the last appear to be most worthy of consideration. The first line of embankment (direct across the channel) although attended with difficulties which the last is free from, particularly in the facility of letting off" the back-waters, would be productive of some advantages that could not result from the latter. By stopping up the channel, the danger arising to vessels getting into Tramore Bay would be considerably lessened. When the tide is coming in, with the wind from S.S.E. to S.W., it rushes from all quarters of the bay towards this channel: the rapidity of the current is of course increased by the narrowness of the en- COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 365 trance, and the great indraught of water must operate against vessels extricating themselves from the bay. This indraught would cease on the embankment being made, and it is not only probable, but almost certain, that, in time, the tides not having a passage into the channel, would throw up against the embankment vast quantities of sand, and ultimately render it secure beyond the possibility of accident; for such is the natural tendency of water on meeting with obstacles which it cannot conquer. It is well known, par- ticularly in America, that currents have not un- frequently created small islands, by encountering in their passage trees, or even their branches firmly fixed, and depositing small quantities of sand or mud against them, which by constant accumula- tions have become at length excellent land. The course of the Ganges has been, it is said, repeat- edly changed in this manner; in short, it is an admitted fact, that all floods, from the muddiness of their streams, leave on the verges of their quickest currents, a sandy or muddy settlement, and a very trifling impediment stopping that sand or mud in the course of the current, which would otherwise flow with it, and that sand or mud forming a barrier to the next parcel, ground is thus ultimately created. If the bank is made from the sand-hills to the glebe at Kilmacleague, the following advantages will attend it. The harbour of Kliiiieshark will remain open as usual for fishing-boats to take '366 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. shelter in : the streams and floods which at par- ticular seasons rush with great violence into the pills, would, by means of s-luices, have their pas- sage as heretofore open to the sea: the tides would run not against, but bi) the side of the bank, and never could have the same effect as if the bank directly //w/^e^ them: should the tide rush in with the greatest violence at the mouth of the channel, yet as the two pills run off in a contrary direction from the proposed bank, the tide would of course oblique to that side where the passages were open, so that it would neither have a direct, or even a strong- lateral operation on it : the bank would require much less solid work than if it ran across the channel; would be less liable to acci- dents during its construction, and (a most material consideration) the foundation could be constantly examined, and repaired instantly if any accident occurred. These are a few of the reasons which appear favourable to the embankment from the glebe to the sand-hills. With respect to the manner of making the embankment, plans and estimates should be pro- cured from experienced engineers conversant with works of such a description, and such plans should be well-digested and perfectly understood by all parties previous to the commencement of the work. One point in particular should be strongly inculcated, namely, that although all unnecessary expense should be carefully avoided, that ill- judged and too-prevalent economy which, to save COUXTY OF WATERFORD. 367 a trifle not worth recollecting, would hazard sub- stantial security, should be equally shunned. In making- any embankment or fence against water, the first and great object of attention should be to make a firm and secure foundation ; in fact, unless this great essential is obtained, there can be no security. Wherever there is to be a great pressure of water against a bank, all possible precautionary measures should be adopted for the security of the foundation. Most of the accidents which have hitherto occurred in em- bankments have been occasioned by. neglecting this grand point. Wherever water meets with any encouragement, or can fasten on any conductor in a dam, such as a piece of timber running across it, it will work and insinuate itself with wonderful perseverance, until it at length conquers every impediment : if, on the contrary, it once meets with firm opposition, it will increase that opposi- tion by depositing, as before-mentioned, the sand and mud which it is prevented carrying forward. It may not be irrelevant to state, as a reason for observing such particular caution in the foun- dation, that the pressure of all fluids against banks, the sides of containing vessels, &c. is as the square of their depth, that is, if the pressure be one pound against the uppermost inch, it will be four pounds against two inches deep, Sec. ^c. : that llu- water undermost is pressed by all the rest, and must of course operate more poweriully at the bottom than at the top, is ascertained by a very 368 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES. simple experiment, — a pipe fixed under the most surfaces of water will discharge the most water; if it is fixed four times as deep below the surface of the water, as another of the same diameter, it will discharge twice as much in the same time, and so in proportion. The foregoing is stated, as persons may be con- cerned in the embankment, not previously aware of the necessity of making such a foundation as would resist any pressure that could possibly affect it. It is also to be recollected that not only the mere pressure of the water is to be re- sisted, but likewise the force w'ith which it may rush against the bank, and, when the wind blows strong from S. S. E. to S. W., there is generally a great rolling sea intoTramore Bay, which increases the force and rapidity of the current into the har- bour of Rhineshark. With respect to the con- struction of the embankment and its probable expense, the writer of these observations must refer to persons whose profession and practical experience qualify them to enter into the neces- sary details : he certainly has viewed and examined several embankments, and so far has endeavoured to acquire such information as might justify the hints suggested in this article : — to this extent only his pretensions are limited. As he is not aware of any intelligent treatise or exclusive publication on embankments, it occurs to him that the best mode of construction is to be collected from an accurate knowledge of the situa- COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 369 tion of the ground to be embanked — the probable operation of the tides on it — the different methods heretofore pursued in embanking ground in par- ticular situations — to observe in what respect the ground in question differs from ground heretofore taken in, and from a due consideration of all cir- cumstances, to arrange such a plan of embank- ment as may be likely to combine duration with general utility. The latter term is here intro- duced, because there can be no doubt but that a good road made on the top of the embankment and along the isthmus of Tramore to the town of Tramore, thus connecting by the sea-side the baronies of Gaultier and Middlethird, would be of essential benefit to that part of the county. Wherever the line of embankment is to run, (if on examination the ground on which it is to be raised should appear to be soft and insecure,) it might be well to drive a row of piles dovetailed into each other, after the manner of sliding black- lead pencils formerly so much in use, by which means it would be impossible for water to pene- trate through or under them, if driven to a proper depth, as they would thus form one complete shut, and, if made of fir, the dovetailing would swell and grow close. Tliese piles arc to be made long or short according to circumstances, while the method of dovetailing keeps each pile in its proper groove while it is driving. 'I'his |)I;ui appears to have been originally the invention of a Captain Parry, who, nboiit a iuiiulrt-d years ago. 370 TOPOGUAPIIY AND ANTIQUITIES. successfully introduced it, in making an embank- ment on the river Thames, near Daggenham. All the lands in the immediate neighbourhood of this place had been completely inundated by a breach in the banks, made by a tremendous tide ; and various efforts were made by different engineers to stop up this breach, which was 400 feet wide and 18 feet deep at low water ; but they were all ineffectual, in consequence, as it was clearly de- monstrated at the time, of their being unacquainted with a proper method of securing the foundation. Captain Parry, however, was at length employed by the land-owners, and, after struggling with considerable difficulties, from the jealousy of those who had previously failed in the undertaking and from other causes, at length secured the founda- tion by driving the dovetailed piles before men- tioned, and raising a bank on each side of them 42 feet in height, which completely protected the adjacent country from future inundations. When the foundation is effectually secured and the embankment proceeded in, a sufficient slope should be presented to the sea, which is indis- pensably requisite in all works of this kind : the force of the water is then destroyed, as, from not meeting with direct opposition, it will smoothly glide up the inclined plane. Those who know that the power of any inclined plane is as its length is to its height, namely, that a cylinder will be rolled up an inclined road of twenty yards in length and but one yard perpen- COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 371 dicular height with one twentieth part of tlie force that would be necessary to Hft it perpen- dicularly that yard, may readily estimate its effect and utility. In all cases of currents it is far better to bend than to break them ; they should be sub- dued by stratagem and not by force. The quantity of ground taken in from the sea at various periods in different countries, and the great tracts of valuable alluvial soil obtained by judicious embankment, almost exceed credibility. In England, exclusive of Romney Marsh before mentioned, there are millions of acres brought into cultivation in this way and by draining, which are particularly productive. Vermuyden, a Fleming, and a colonel of horse under Cromwell, was celebrated for his skill in works of this de- scription. Holland furnishes a remarkable ex- ample of what persevering industry may do in this respect ; it is literally stolen from the sea, and only preserved from what Cobbett would call the grab of its original proprietor by immense embankments. The Dutch appoint respectable persons for the sole purpose of inspecting and taking care of these embankments; and it lias been said, that formerly a neglect of this impor- tant duty was viewed in so criminal a light that the punishment of death was inflicted on the of- fender and a stake driven through his body, in the breach occasioned by his inattention. Persons sailing into Diildi ports may see cattle grazing and corn growing considerably below the level of 372 TOPOGUAPilV AXD ANTIQUITIKS. the sea. A number of lakes in that country have been, in consequence of the great increase of its inhabitants, drained from time to time. One in particular called the Beemster, containing 1800 acres, was, in former days, when steam-engines were unknown, made dry by the working of wind- mills, and is considered as the richest ground in the country. In Flanders immense tracts of land have been banked in and drained, and the fer- tility of the ground is proverbial. In Italy, along the river Po, there are extensive embankments, which preserve the adjoining country from inun- dation. The Romans frequently employed their soldiers in draining marshes and making embank- ments, particularly the Pompeian marshes. Ac- cording to Dugdale, the Pomptine fens were laid dry by Cornelius Cethegus, and such was the richness of the soil that twenty-three towns were said to have been built in it. The great fertility occasioned by muddy streams is in no part of the world more gratefully felt and acknowledged than in Egypt, where drains are cut for the express purpose of letting the Nile water the country and leave its fat mud on the earth. Of such consequence is this to the in- habitants, that unless the Nile rises to a par- ticular height, famine is the consequence. The Egyptians, from experience, have framed the following calculations on this subject : twelve cubits only in height occasion famine ; thirteen hunger ; fourteen bring mirth ; fifteen security ; COUNTY OF WATERFORD. 373 and sixteen plenty. The richness of that part of Egypt called the Delta (from its somewhat re- sembling in form the Greek letter of that name) is to be exclusively attributed to the mud of the Nile waters. The late celebrated and Rev. Sir Henry Bate Dudley, Bart, who resided at Brad- well Lodge in Essex, about twenty -five years ago made a very interesting communication to the London Society for the encouragement of Arts, Manufactures and Commerce, of a method of gaining land from the sea, and for which the gold medal was adjudged to him by the society. Sir Henry had, about eleven years before, made another embankment, for which he also received a gold medal from the society ; but he found that he had not given it a sufficient declension in front for an easy ascent and descent of the waves. His second embankment particularly deserves to be noticed, as the exposed situation of the ground, according to the description of it, rendered it more difficult to be embanked than the back strand of Tramore. It directly fronted the sea, and ex- tended nearly one mile in length, and with the returning bank, inclosed between two and three hundred acres. The whole of the embankment was composed of earth alone : it was begun on a base of thirty-two feet, raised to the height of seven feet, leaving a plain of five feet on \\\v top. The first embankment having nearly given way at the foundation, on a great tide running against it, owing to the erection of new enrtli on thi' sur- 374 roi'ocjUAPHv and antiquities. face, Sir Henry, to guard against similar danger in the present one, had a trench six feet wide, and about two feet deep, cut, along the centre of the line of embankment, and this trench, by admit- ting the new earth into, as it were, an incorpora- tive adhesion with the soil of the base, rendered a separation, after it was well rammed down, almost impossible. The entire work was completed in seven months by twelve men experienced in such undertakings. Sluices were fixed at each end of the embankment for letting off the land waters, and the ground was afterwards divided, and from drains made, and the introduction of small intersecting rills of fresh water, the entire became excellent land ; not less than 800 Southdown sheep, and from sixty to eighty horses, were constantly grazed on it. As it was the general opinion of the county, that ground thus taken from the sea would not grow corn for a number of years, Sir Henry, in some short time after the inclosure, dug part and sowed it with horse-beans and oats, and had a good re- turn. He, in the following year, sowed the same spot with wheat, and it yielded a choice crop. On the sea being shut out, the part inclosed became coated with grasses of good quality, different clovers, trefoil, &c. from whence Sir Henry concluded, contrary to the general opinion, that the natural operation of the sun and air upon particular soils will produce grasses without their being artificially sown. COLXTY OF WATERFOKD. 375 It is a certain fact respecting that part of the back strand of Tramore, marked A in the sketch, which, many years ago, had been and continued for some time banked in by the late Bartholomew Rivers, Esq. that in about three weeks or a month after it was inclosed, a most intolerable smell pro- ceeded from it, occasioned, as it afterwards ap- peared on examination, from the putrifaction of small fish, &c. deprived of their food and support by the shutting out of the tides. This piece of ground contained about seventy acres, but the bank (the remains of which are still visible) was badly executed ; the foundation was not carefully attended to, and no sufficient precaution taken to guard against high tides, or to let them off by proper sluices, when they flowed over or broke through the bank ; — the result was, the destruc- tion of the work. It must be satisfactory to those who may wish to forward and encourage the embankment at Tramore, to be informed, that in every instance which has come to the writer's knowledge where a work of such a description has been well and carefully executed, considerable profit, far ex- ceeding an adequate return for the money ex- pended, has been uniformly made. It ^appears from a statement in Mr. Tighe's Statistical Survey of the County of Kilkenny, tliat the late Mr. Devereux of Ringville, in that county, made a consideral)le addition to his ])roporty by 376 TOPOGRAPHY AND ANTIQUITIES, embanking- between eighty and ninety acres, ad- joining the river Barrow. The ground, which was covered every tide and of no value, became after the embankment worth four pounds an acre. The embankment is about an English mile in length, and Mr. Tighe says, *' probably cost him in all about £2000, which was the same thing as purchasing a fee-simple of £4 for £25. Suppos- ing that only eight acres were reclaimed, had it cost £4000 it would still be cheap, and shews what great profit may be made by such improve- ments. In the reclaimed ground, potatoes were first planted without manure, and gave a great crop : barley * succeeded and did not answer, the soil not being suited to it, but grass seeds sown with it grew well, and immediately supported sixty cattle the whole year both with grass and hay : great part is now grazed, and throws up thick and strong herbage." Here is a striking instance in our immediate neighbourhood of the amazing profit resulting from judicious embank- ment, and no person can view the more favour- able situation of Tramore strand for embank- ment without a well grounded expectation of a similar result. As to its practicability there cannot be any doubt; the only difference of opinion that can reasonably exist is as to the expense being re- * Qu. "\M11 our fastidious English neighbours call this a bull ? COUKTY OF M^ATERFORD. 377 munerated by the return. At all events, it must be perfectly clear that the object is well worth the inquiry. According to a sensible article which appeared some months since in a Water- ford paper, the estimate for taking in the back strand by stopping up the harbour of Rhineshark was but £19,834. This estimate was made by Mr. Musgrave an engineer, who is engaged in the superintendence of the Waterford bridge, and who offered to guarantee that the expense, under his management, should not exceed that sum. If Mr. Musgrave is correct in this estimate, the re- turn must be most lucrative, for the value of the ground, in any point of view, would, it is con- ceived, sanction an expenditure to a much greater amount in embanking and reclaiming it. On the formation of a company for this very desirable work, a committee of the subscribers, as is usual in such cases, should be appointed to consider and report fully on all points connected with the undertaking. Debentures of £50 each, it is sug- gested would afford a ready investment for capi- tal, and enable many to become members of the company, whom a larger sum would exclude from it. r. li THE PEASANTRY. 15 ij2 ON THE CONDITION OF THE PEASANTRY OF THE COUNTY OF WATERFORD. It is difficult except by a detailed description to give to those unacquainted with Ireland, an adequate idea of the state of the lower orders. There is something anomalous in their condition : it is not enough to say that they are less improved than the people of England ; it is not sufficiently explanatory to observe, that they are many years behind them in the progress of civilization. Ge- neral assertions such as these are often question- able, and in the present case they are only par- tially true : they are true as far as regards the practice of agriculture, and what may be called the comforts and decencies of life, but they are not correct if applied to the understandings of the people and to the degree of their practical in- formation. The Irish peasant is seen in the worst possible point of view ; he labours under all the disadvan- tages of a foreigner; he generally speaks and always thinks in Irish: our prejudices too are against him, he has earned a bad name and it attaches to him incessantly. It might be sup- 382 PEASAXTRV. posed, that a flattering description would be given of this class of persons, and in such a manner, generally speaking, it woukl be right to represent them generous, hospitable, high minded : this is perhaps the natural character, but it is not the character which circumstances have now im- pressed upon them. The Irish peasant is shrewd and suspicious in an extreme degree ; he looks on all as his enemies ; he dreads his superiors — " et dona ferentes;" his mind has lost its energy and elasticity ; his heart is hardened against every man, because he is persuaded that every man's heart is steeled against him ; he is insensible to hope, and there- fore it is that so much, perhaps all, of his enjoy- ments are of a negative kind, arising rather from the absence of evil than from any positive good ; such gratifications as are derived from the use of spirituous liquors. But though depraved and degraded, and very low in the scale of humanity, he is not without intelligence : it is not too much to say, that the mind of the lower orders in Ire- land is as acute and as much enlightened as that of the same class, under similar circumstances, in any other country. The Farmers and Cottiers, — I speak of them indiscriminately, for they compose only one class — are perfectly aware of their degraded state ; they can understand and value the superior civi- lization of their English neighbours, but they are PEASANTRY. 383 accustomed to consider it hopeless to endeavour to emulate it — they look on it as on something infinitely beyond their reach ; they are taught to account themselves an inferior caste, and have no expectation, scarcely any desire, of improving their condition. The great misfortune of Ireland appears to arise from the state of degradation in which the peasantry exist, compared with the intelligence and knowledge which they pos- sess : their minds have been enlightened, while their enjoyments are every day becoming less, or in other words, their physical condition has not kept pace with their moral improvement. In proof of this, it may be observed, that two hun- dred years ago, wages were almost as high as at present, while articles of consumption were infi- nitely lower. In 1631, labourers' wages were sixpence per day, and at the same period a sheep could be purchased for a shilling. The peasantry of Ireland have been so often represented in the glowing colours of romance, it is to be feared that the sober language of truth and reality will be received with reluctance. The mind is at all times unwilling to give assent to disagreeable truths ; it gladly turns from such sub- jects, and is disposed to reject them on the con- solatory supposition that they originate in false- hood or misapprehension. Accounts of Ireland have been not only vague, l)iit incorrect. The friends and tlie enemies of the country have both 384 PEASAXTUV. transgressed the bounds of soberness : if the one has described it as the favoured region of heaven, the isle of Saints, and the ]and where no poison- ous reptile can exist, the other has more than can- celled the unqualified approbation, by admitting that there is nothing poisonous in Ireland, " ex- cept the men and women." Until of very late years, the people of England knew nothing of the Irish peasantry. It may ap- pear paradoxical, but it is nevertheless true, that the slaves on the coast of Africa were more attended to than the miserable freemen of this country. The people of England were taught to consider the Irish as savages, despising the comforts and decencies of civilized life, and only happy when engaged in massacre and rapine. — Every thing that could degrade the national cha- racter was eagerly published; all their natural and acquired vices, their errors of temperament, and the ferocious acts which have so frequently disgraced them, were anxiously brought into view, while nothing or next to nothing was said of the particular circumstances which, though they could not excuse, might in some degree account for them. A few words will be sufficient to give an idea of the misery in which the peasantry exist : it is not intended to describe their situation when visited by famine or disease, it will be sufficient to pourtray their every-day life, the mode of living PEASAXTRY. 385 inherited from their fothers, and the same which they expect will be the lot of their children. It has been already observed, that no considerable distinction is perceptible in the condition of all those personally engaged in the cultivation of the soil. The holder of land, varying from ten to fifty acres, may be more plentifully and more constantly supplied with food than the cottier whom he employs ; he may exhibit a more re- spectable appearance at a funeral or at his place of worship, but this difference does not sufficiently distinguish them, to enable us to arrange them in two classes ; comparing their general habits, we shall find them in their enjoyments, their con- veniences and manner of living, very nearly resem- bling each other. The privations and wretched- ness of the Irish peasantry have been depicted even to loathing, and yet the picture has not been overcharged. In their habitations, furniture, diet, clothing, in the education and in the provision for their children, they are not superior to the Russian boor. Comparing their physical condition with that of the same class in other countries, and taking into account the relative intelligence of the parties, it may be safely asserted that the lowest class in Ireland is the most miserable in the world. Nothing can appear more disgusting or more repugnant to every idea of neatness, than the interior of an Irisli caljin. There is no exag- geration in the multiplied statements on this head : 38G PEASANTRY. their hovels are, literally speaking, shared with their pigs and poultry, and, as it has been well remarked, when the intruder is occasionally re- pulsed, the perseverance of the animals attests the frequency of their visits. The food of the peasantry is universally potatoes and skimmed milk, and in the many cases where a cow is not kept, salt becomes a substitute for milk during a considerable portion of the year. Throughout extensive tracts of country, animal food is never tasted, even by the better class of farmers, except perhaps at a festival or a wedding. The condition of the females has fortunately engaged the attention of those who can best ap- preciate what their sex and condition require, and who will learn with regret that their strength and constitution yield at an early age to the destructive and unsuitable employments imposed upon them. The clothing of the peasantry is that in which they are least deficient : I mean the out of door dress, for the furniture of their beds is but too often a very small addition to their ordinary ap- parel. In the article of clothing, the condition of the peasantry has been improved. It is in the recollection of persons still living that the dress of farmers who brought their goods to market at Waterford formerly consisted of a loose great coat tied round the body with a band of hay, without shoes or stockings, shirt or hat. It would be tedious to dwell on this part of the PEASANTRY. 387 subject ; a deficiency of food and clothing im- plies a want of the other necessaries of life. When these habitual privations are rendered more acute by a year of scarcity, and when they are attend- ed, as they generally are, with mental anxiety, the intensity of suffering may be estimated by the inevitable result, disease, assuming a slow but a fatal character, and already well known by the name of typhus fever, the consequence and the remedy of the vices and improvidence of man. For the origin of this misery and degradation, we are to look into circumstances over which the peasant has no controul. It is not choice which makes him abstain from animal food; he does not prefer, from choice, the association with filthy animals ; if he endures the nastiness of a crowded, dark, and smoky hovel, it is because its imper- fect construction, and the want of clothes and fuel enforce him to recur to such expedients to procure the necessary temperature: in a word, necessity is the cause of the peasant's wretched- ness, and the consequence of his wretchedness is indolence and filth, and ultimately discontent and insurrection. The cultivators of the soil in England and in this country arc differently estimated. In Eng- land the third ])art of the ])roduce of a farm is usually allotted to the occupier; here, the entire produce, deducting tithe and taxes and the pota- toes and milk consumed, arc exacted by the land- 388 PEASANTRY. lord. Supposing that the occupier's portion is, in both cases, barely a subsistence, the portion appropriated in England exceeds that in this country as much as the mode of living of the English farmer exceeds that of the Irish. It is said that an Irish farm, if properly culti- vated, might produce much more than it now does, leaving the landlord the same rent, and giv- ing to the occupier a more suitable remuneration. This cannot be denied. But where is the skill and capital and energy, without which this in- creased production cannot be effected ? Procure for the Irish peasant these requisites, and then the rents now exacted will not be exorbitant; but until this can be accomplished, let the portion allotted to him be more commensurate with his reasonable wants. Rent should be the surplus of the nett produce after deducting the taxes and a fair remuneration to the occupier. A great source of the misery of Ireland is the food of the lowest class. I do not mean to adopt all the reasonings of some who have written on this subject, but it cannot be denied that the sim- plicity and cheapness of the food consumed, af- fords to the avaricious landlord a mean of esti- mating the minimum of produce which must be deducted for the use of the occupant, or when the proprietor is excusable, enables the farmer to carry competition to the greatest length. When we attempt to discover the source to which we PEASAXTUV. 389 are to look for an explanation of the misery and degradation of the Irish peasantry, it is too much the custom to fasten upon some one particular circumstance as the origin from which the entire evil results. The misery of this country is by some attri- buted to tithes; by others to want of employ- ment, to want of education, to the absence of landed proprietors : these are among the most prominent topics brought forward by those who have written on the state of Ireland. There is no doubt that much is attributable to these causes, and that were the evils connected with them amended, the general condition of the country would be improved. But they should be altered alotgether, not in detail : it would not be suf- ficient to lessen the number of evils, the con- sequence would be that the mischief would be only concentrated amongst those which remained. A greater extension of education would more clearly open the eyes of the people to the misery of their situation : the improvement likely to re- sult from greater intercourse with their superiors would be more than compensated by discovering their wants without enabling them to satisfy them. It is not unusual to hear it stated tliat tithes are the sole cause of the misery of Irehmd, and that were tithes abolislied, the country would be lia])])y. Tithes as they arc now collected, perhaps in any sliaj)e, arc vexatious, hut tlicy are 390 I'EASANTllV. not the only evil of which the peasant has to com- plain ; nay more, if they were not combined with excessive rents, their pressure would be scarcely perceptible. The weight of tithe as it now presses upon the Irish agriculturist may be estimated in this way : the rent is the nett produce of the land, after deducting a miserable allowance to the oc- cupier ; tithe is afterwards to be taken from this already scanty portion. Were tithe abolished without recurring to the other evils of the system, the boon would be given to the landlord and not to the occupier: it is well known that when land is tithe free, or when the landlord is proprietor of the tithes, the difference of rent exacted from the tenant far exceeds what he usually pays when the property is vested in the Church. It is the opinion of some eminent writers on political economy, that the weight of tithe falls upon the consumer. I do not presume to question the truth of this observation on gene- ral principles, but in the present state of agricul- ture the opinion does not appear well founded. The value of agricultural produce is not now re- gulated by the usual relation of supply and de- mand : the average annual supply exceeds the demand, and therefore the value is a fixed quan- tity, and can only affect those immediately inte- rested in the land, or, in other words, a given amount is to be divided between the landlord, the parson, and the occupier. Now if the tenant's PEASANTRY. 391 share be a bare subsistence, and therefore a fixed quantity, it will follow that the value of agricul- tural produce rests between the landlord and the clergy, and that what is taken from one becomes the property of the other. Another consideration is also to be attended to : the landlord and the clergy conceive (how justly it matters not) that their remuneration is inadequate. In this state of things, if the landlord alone abate his demand, he only enables the clergyman to obtain more in lieu of tithe: again, if the clergyman alone abate his tithe, he only gives the landlord a power to exact more rent. Reduction, to be effectual, must be mutual : let the landlords and the clergy unite in reducing their demands, and then the sum of their abate- ments will go to relieve the occupier. These observations respecting excessive de- mands are, of course, merely general ; there are many and splendid instances of liberality and fairness amongst the land-owners of this county, and independent of my feeble testimony, the com- parative moderation of rents may be demonstrated by a reference to the more peaceable condition of the people, as compared with the inhabitants of some of the other counties. At the same time it must not be concealed that a trifling additional pressure, or a few wanton acts of cruelty, would soon excite the s|)irit wliicli, though not in immediate action, is yet in lull vi- 392 rEASAN'TUY. gour, and which only requires an inconsiderable movement to cause it to burst forth with destruc- tive fury. It is one of the misfortunes of the present state of things that there is little apparent or immediate encouragement to induce landed proprietors to alter the system. In the many cases where a more liberal mode of acting has been pursued, it has been met with ingratitude on the part of those whose benefit was sought : moderate rents have produced a relaxation of exertion, and kindness has been returned with fraud. Together with a steady and improved system, it will require much time and an invincible patience to teach the pea- santry that their interests and those of their landlords are inseparably united ; it will require all the incitements of hope, the force of example, and some of the fruits of their labours to convince them that their happiness depends upon their own exertions. But tithes and excessive rents are not the only evils : independent of these considerations we have, in a vast unemployed population, an unfail- ing source of misery and crime. It is not pretended that our population is ex- cessive ; though great, it is still unquestionably beneath the means of subsistence : it is not ex- cessive as it regards subsistence, but it is exces- sive as it respects employment. Ireland is abun- dantly competent to support its population : the PEASAXTRY. 393 evil is, that a great proportion must be supported as paupers. If amongst the many circumstances which oppress this country, one alone should be attended to, that one is the useless or unemployed population. Turn where you will, the same evil recurs. Does a benevolent landlord wish to im- prove the condition of those beneath him ? The multitudes residing on some farms preclude the possibility of doing this, except by giving up all rent, and there are cases where even this sacrifice would not be sufficient. The Irish peasant is particularly anxious to " enlarge himself," and will take any quantity of ground, although unable to cultivate it, represent- ing that he has " good help," has a grown up son who would get a wife and fortune, if he could give him a bit of ground and a cabin. For the money received by this sort of traffic, he gives half of what is over and under ground, meaning by the latter, the corn and potatoes growing, and then portions off his daughters, and thus the wheel goes round. The subdivision of farms (a system beneath the influence of which population soon becomes excessive) has been carried to such an extent that the produce is barely sufficient to support the occupiers. Do we expect that tlie value of land will find its own level ? Our unemployed millions forbid us to look for this desirai)le event: they will offer the value and more than the value; c c 394 PEASANTRY. they will require a bare subsistence, they will threaten and terrify and murder to procure a rest- ing place, and thus the evil goes on increasing, carrying within itself the seeds of future mischief. Disturbance and discontent have for years ex- isted in Ireland. Whence do they arise? They cannot be attributed solely to the misconduct of the government, for there have been so many dif- ferent rulers, and so many different plans of go- verning, it were impossible that some of them would not remove the evils, if they were really derivable from this source. The historical sketch with which this volume is commenced abundantly shews the wrongs and the sufferings of Ireland, and exhibits a black ca- talogue of unjust acts, which makes England still her debtor. This hateful system, which parcelled a great country among ten strangers, and taught that all who loved her were "degenerate" or " rebels," can only be said to have terminated since the commencement of the last reign : it was productive of many evils ; it excited cruelty and oppression in one country, and it infused rancour and prejudice into the other. The former may be observed in the arbitrary change of Irish names and fashions ; the latter is ludicrously exhibited in the unaccountable reluctance with which a family of the county of Waterford assumed the name of Condon, in place of Mac Majoke. The injustice and misgovernment of England in former times may have produced many evils and were PEASANTRY. 395 perhaps the remote cause of the existing misery of Ireland. But how can the present misgovern- ment of the country, even admitting its exist- ence, be connected with the prevailing disturb- ances ; how can the disorders of the peasantry be connected with the errors of their rulers ? Besides if the governments of Ireland were in fault, why have the disturbances been partial? — why have they been confined to particular dis- tricts and to particular classes ? Above all, why have they prevailed principally amongst those whose connection with the executive is least ob- servable ? The same reasoning applies in a great degree to the opinion that religious differences are the cause of insurrection and disturbance : this opinion must also be unfounded ; the argu- ment drawn from it would prove too much. If discontent, arising from religious disabilities, were the source of the insurrectionary acts, then the same spirit should pervade every part of Ire- land, and the same consequences follow from it. Religious distinctions are more observable in towns and cities, while disturbance is confined to the country, and is most prevalent where there is a similarity of religious feeling, and no ])()litical disabilities arc felt. It would be a mockery to the Irish peasant to condole with him upon liis political degradation, or to demand his gratitude for the gift of the elective franchise. The source of discontent inust be sought elsewhere. ( ( l> 396 PF.ASAXTltV. The exciting causes of the insurrectionary spi- rit which has so long harassed Ireland are to be traced to the misery of her peasantry, to their wretched and precarious subsistence, to their mi- serable hovels, to the privations they endure, to the abject state of dependence in which they exist, and above all, to the rapacity and oppression which they frequently endure. When the condition of the peasantry is brought fully under our observation, it is a matter of sur- prize how they can exist in such circumstances. • — We are amazed how they can endure such misery, but are not prepared to think that insur- rection is the necessary consequence. Extreme suffering will break through all bounds ; a wretch with a family around him, fa- mishing in a hovel, or, what is still more dreaded, turned upon society without a home to receive, -or even hope to comfort him, is prepared to violate all restraint and justice and order ; the iron grasp of the law is mercy to him. How gladly would he change conditions with the slave in the West Indies, or with the convicts in a prison-ship, ex- cept indeed that he had rather die at home ! It is a fact of every day occurrence, that the prisoners in our gaols are unwilling to return to their mise- rable homes, and that it becomes necessary to compel them to the enjoyment of liberty and wretchedness. The strong arm of the law can do much ; it may PEASAXTRV. • 397 force men to endure great misery, but it has its limits; it can only chain down the body, the mind is still free; it may compel men to suffer, but it cannot make them contented. We seek too much when we expect that the Roman Catholic clergy should, in every case, repress the outrages and check the bad passions of the peo- ple. We are unreasonable, when we seek a remedy for varied and complicated evils in the unsupported influence of religious teachers. I know that many of the Rom.an Catholic priest- hood are anxiously and incessantly engaged in promoting peace and harmony, order and regu- larity, amongst their people. I have witnessed their zealous and indefatigable labours, and am convinced that their authority is exerted perhaps beyond its limits. But how little is to be ex- pected from preaching patience to misery; how little sway can religion maintain over men inflamed with the spirit of demons ! Let us, from a consideration of the nature of the disturbances, endeavour to trace their origin. On referring to the accounts of the various tumultuous assemblages, which under the names of Steel Boys, Oak Boys, White Boys, kc, have served to fill up the modern history of Ireland, we find that they all have had the same origin and the same object. Tlie inclosing of a common, licavy fines on leases, compulsory work on roads, actual or fancied opj)rcssion, more or less (■n(lural)lc, 398 • PEASANTRY. has called the bad spirit into action, and, when excited, the object has invariably been to lower the rent of lands, to check competition by dis- couraging the proposals of strangers, to abolish tithes, and, in some shape or other, to acquire what the Irish peasant has never had, a reason- able interest in the property of the soil. The disturbances spring from some cause con- nected with the landed interest: to that quarter, and to that only, must the remedy be applied. There is some real or supposed unsoundness in the system, which requires investigation ; if the former, it should be brought to light; if the latter, it will vanish before inquiry. The want of connection between the higher and lower ranks, which is justly considered one of the greatest evils, is of itself sufficient to shew that the peasantry cannot have a common cause with any other party. There are two classes of per- sons in Ireland who are discontented. One de- sires political power; the other, more humble, seeks even less than the degraded Roman popu- lace — they only ask for food. What bond of union, — what connecting link can exist between these two classes, except perhaps a real or fan- cied community of suffering ? The peasantry are now susceptible of every impression ; their wants have rendered them easily acted on by a force which otherwise would have no attraction for PEASANTRY. 399 them. Restore them to a healthy state, and the contagion will be innocuous. Still, amidst all these gloomy and disheartening appearances, there are some faint indications of more cheering days. Amidst all the depravity of the times, there are not a few redeeming virtues hovering about the Irish peasant which en- courage the hope that he may again assume the proud rank in the scale of humanity, which an- ciently belonged to his character and nation. The hospitality of the country flourishes in all its pris- tine vigour: the traveller, even the wandering wretched beggar, enters without hesitation and seats himself freely at the fire-side of the most perfect stranger. If, on some occasions, a portion of the frugal meal is not pressed on the superior visitor, it is because they esteem it unworthy his acceptance, and dread even the semblance of pre- sumption. The recklessness and total absence of selfish- ness, which are constantly exhibited, are almost incredible. When a prospect of temporary en- joyment is held out, as a hurling-match or a horse- race, sports of which he is passionately fond, the Irish peasant has been known to rush from the calamity of a legal process, and to riot in unre- strained pleasure, not knowing whether at his return at midnight he sliould have a farm to suj)- port, or a roof to shelter, him. He is iniicii at- tached to his devotions, and most regular in his 400 PEASANTRY. attendance at chapel. The following- fact, which occurred in this county, exemplifies his respect for his religion. A farmer, passionately attached to whiskey, (in which he was by no means singu- lar,) always became very turbulent and abusive to his family when he took more of his favourite beverage than agreed with his understanding, an occurrence which not unfrequently happened. His wife and children adopted the following in- genious plan of protecting themselves from his violence and effectually succeeded. As soon as they were aware of his approach to his cabin, which he uniformly announced by screaming and hallooing, they all dropped on their knees as if to pray; he immediately followed their example and soon fell into a sound sleep, he was then instantly caught up and rolled into bed. The lower orders are susceptible of singular attachment to the persons of their superiors, an attachment partly derived from the custom of fosterage, which in former times connected the different ranks in this country in the same way as Patron and Client united the corresponding classes in ancient Rome. Those qualities which are now converted into vices, may again be restored to their true tone and healthfulness. The Irish peasant is already free from selfish- ness ; he is generous by habit and by nature, and kindness may again induce him to be attached TEASANTRY. 401 and grateful. Much may be done by the wealth and the beneficence of England; her capital may introduce profitable employment ; every new source of employment will diminish competition in land; the farmer will be more esteemed; he will be raised in his own estimation ; he will par- take of the enjoyments of life and thus become contented. Gloomy as Ireland has been, her day of peace may not be far distant. The united efforts of all ranks and all parties may effect the change, banish misery and strife, and, falsifying the prediction of the historian, render Ireland peaceable and con- tented " much before doomsday." APPENDIX. A List of the Mayors, Bailiffs, and Sheriffs of the City of Waterford, from the Year 1377 to 1824, inclusive. MAYORS. 1377 William Lumbard 1407 1378 William Lumbard 1408 1379 William Chapman 1409 1380 William Madan 1410 1381 Philip Spell 1411 1382 Robert Sweetman 1412 1383 Robert Sweetman 1413 1384 William Lumbard 1414 1385 AVilliam Forstall 1415 1386 Robert Bruce 1416 1387 William Lumbard 1417 1388 William Pocr 1418 1389 William Poer 1419 1390 Milo Poer 1420 1391 Walter Spence 1421 1392 William Chapman 1422 1393 John Rocket 1423 1394 Milo Poer 1424 1395 William Forstall 1425 1396 William Attamen 1426 1397 William Lincolnc 1427 1398 Andrew Archer 1428 1399 John Eyenas 1429 1400 ^^'illiam Forstall 1430 1401 John Lumbard 1131 1402 John Lumbard 1432 1403 Nicliolas Lumbard 1433 1 101 William I'oer 1434 1405 William Poer 1435 1 406 Richard Brushbonc 1436 John ^A^alsh John Lumbard Walter Attamen William Power John Roberts John Rocket Simon Wickins John AMiite Nicholas Holland William Russell William Lincolnc John Lumbard John Lumbard Roger Walsh Simon Wickins Thomas O Kabrane Gilbert Dyer John Eyenas Thomas () Kabrane William Lincolnc Peter Strong Robert Lincolnc Peter Rice Walter Attamen Peter Strong (iilbert Dyer Foulke ('onnuerloni Peter Strong Nicholas Gougii John Corr 404 APPENDIX. 1437 .loin, ^\■llifc 1475 John Sherlock 143S Nifliolas Mulgan 1476 Peter Lovet 1431) .lohii Ko|K' 1477 James Rice 1410 Thomas Hull 1478 \\'iUiam Liucoluc 1441 Nicholas (iough J 479 John Corr 1442 William Sattadel 1480 James Sherlock 1443 Nicholas Mulgan 1481 Maurice Wise 1444 Nicholas Mulgan 1482 John Butler 144;') William Coir 1483 James Rice 1446 \\'illiam Corr 1481 James Rice 1447 John Rope 1485 Richard Strong 1448 Foulkc ('ommcrford 1486 James Rice 1449 ^V'illiau^ Lincolne 1487 John Butler UJO William White 1488 James Rice 1451 Richard Walsh 1489 Robert Lumbard 14.32 Maurice Wise 1490 William Lumbard 1433 Patrick Rope 1491 Patrick Rope 1454 John JNIadan 1492 William Lund)ard 1455 William White 1493 Robert Butler 145G Robert Butler 1494 Hemy Fagan 1457 John Madan 1495 '^Jolm Madan 1458 Richard W^ilsh 1510 John Madan 1459 William White 1511 John Butler 14G0 Laurence Dobbin 1512 Nicholas Madan 14(il John May 1513 John Madan 14G2 John Sherlock 1514 James Butler 14G3 John Corr 1515 Nicholas Madan 14(54 John Corr 1516 John Madan 1465 Peter Strong 1517 I'atrick Rope 1466 Nicholas Mulgan 1518 Nicholas Madan 1467 John Butler 1519 James Sherlock 1468 John Mulgan 1520 John Morgan 1469 James Rice 1521 Richard ^Valsh, who was 1470 Nicholas Devereux the last that governed 1471 James Rice the city of Waterford 1472 James Rice . without Bailiffs or She- 1473 John Corr riffs. 14/4 John Corr MAYORS. BAILIFFS. 1522 Peter Walsh . 1523 Nicholas Wise . 1524 Nicholas Madan 1525 James Sherlock 1526 John Morgan 1527 Nicholas Wise . Henry Walsh, Pat. Lumbard Nich. Morgan, Wil. Lincolne Nicholas Strong, John Lumbard James White, Tho. Lmnbard Wm. Lincolne, John Luuibard Rob. Sherlock, Peter Sherlock Fioni tlic year 1496 to 1509, no charter. APPENDIX. ^o:> MAYORS. 1528 Patrick Walsh . 1529 James Sherlock 1530 John Morgan 1531 Nicholas Wise . 1532 Patrick Walsh . 1533 William Wise . 1534 James Sherlock 1535 William Lincolne 1536 John Morgan 1537 Thomas Lumbard 1538 Edward Sherlock 1539 James Walsh 1540 WiUiam Whe . 1541 Peter Dobbyn . 1542 James White 1543 ^A'illiam Lincolne 1544 Echvard Sherlock 1545 Thomas Lumbard 1546 Peter Dobbyn 1547 James Walsh 1548 James Madan 1549 Thomas Sherlock 1550 WaUer C'oltie 1551 David Walsh 1552 Peter Dobbyn 1553 James Dobbyn 1554 ^Maurice Wise 1555 Robert Walsh 1556 Henry Walsh 1557 Peter Dobbyn 1558 jNIaurice ^^'isc 1559 John Sherlock 1560 Peter Strong 1561 John Wise . 1562 James Walsh 1563 Henry Wise 1564 Peter Walsh 1565 John Neal 1566 Peter Aylward 1567 Patrick Dobbyn 1568 Nich. Lumbard 1569 Peter Wal>h . . 1570 Phil. C'ommerfcjrd 1571 (Jeorgc Wise 1572 J(jhn Madan 1573 John Madan 1571 James Walsli BAILIFFS. Nich. Walsh, James Devereu.x John Sherlock, Tho. Lumbard Wm. Lincolne, Edw. Sherlock James Wise, Tho. Sherlock Rob. Strong, Jas. Walsh Jas. Sherlock, Peter Dobbyn Jas. A\'alsh, James Sherlock Peter Dobbyn, Tho. Lumbard Tho. A^oodlock, David Bayley John Butler, Nich. jMadan John Butler, Edw. Sherlock James Sherlock, David Bayley James Woodlock, Nich. Lee Rob. Strong, Rob. Walsh Nich. Lee, Tho. Grant Rob. Walsh, Will. Morgan Maurice Wise, Henry Walsh Nich. Lee, David Bayley Tho. Grant, AVm. Lumbard Tho. Wise, Wm. Wise Maurice Wise, Nich. Lee Jas. Woodlock, Jas. Grant Tho. Wise, John Sherlock Jas. Woodlock, Jas. ^^'alsh Peter Strong, John ^\'ise John Neal, Peter Walsh Peter Aylward, John Sherlock John Wise, Paul Lumbard Peter Walsh, John \\'alsh John Neal, Jas. Grant Jas. Lumbard, Phil. Commerlord Nich. Lumbard, Rich. Lickcr James Lumbard, Jas. (irant James ^^'alsh, Paul Luml)ard John ^^'alsh, Pat. Dobbyn Nich. Lumbard, Jas. Madan Jas. Putler, .lames Sherlock .John Madan, Peter Sherlock (ieo. ^^'ise, Nidi. Lumbard .Fas. Lumbard, Phil. Commerford Jas. Sherlock, John Sherlock Jas. Butler, John Lumbard I'eter Sherlock, Nich. (.'ounuerford Tlu). Wise, Jas. Lincolne Rich. Strong, Pat. (lounnerlord Uicli. Strong, Pat, Conunerlord Kol). Walsh, Pat. Couimerford 406 APPENDIX. MAYORS. SHERIFFS. 1.0/5 James Butler 1570 Peter Sherlock . 15/7 Peter Aylward . 1578 Sir Pat. U'alsh . 1579 Pat, Dobbyn 1580 James Sherlock . 1581 Richard Strong . 1582 Nicholas Lee . 1583 James Madan . 1584 John Leonard . L585 Nicholas Commerford 158G James Wise 1587 Alex. Briver 1588 Rich. Strong . 1589 Patrick Dobbyn 1590 James Sherlock 1591 John Leonard . 1592 Nicholas Aylward 1593 Patrick Morgan 1594 Paul Sherlock . 1595 James White 1596 Tho. Wadding . 1597 Paul Strong . . 1598 Tho.AMiite . . 1599 Rich. Madan . 1 600 Sir Ed^yard Gough 1601 Rob. Walsh . . 1602 Rob. Walsh . . 1603 James Lumbard 1 604 Rich. INIadan . 1605 Tho. Wise . 1606 John Sherlock . 1 607 Tho. Strong . 1608 Stephen Leonard 1 609 Stephen Leonard 1610 James Levett 1611 Richard Wadding 1612 Michael Browne 1613 Rob. Walsh . . 1614 Walter Sherlock 1615 Nicholas White 1616 John Joy Rich. Strong, Nich. Lee Edw. Walsh, John Leonard Jas. Luudiard, Pat. Commerford Rob. Walsh, Tho. Wise John Leonard, Nich. Commerford Nich. Lee, Alex. liriver Nich. Commerford, Ed. Commerford Rob. Walsh, Balthaz. Woodlock Nich. ^Vlse, John Lynch John Walsh, Pat. Morgan Alex. Briver, Nich. Walsh Pat. Morgan, John Tew Wm. Lund)ard, Pat. Lundjard John AValsh, John Tew Wm. Lincolne, Paul Sherlock Nich. Wise, James iNIadan Balthaz. Woodlock, Tho. AVhitc Nich. Wise, Paul Strong Tho. Wise, Geo. Commerford Rich. Madan, Geo. Commerford Rich. iNIadan, Geo. Commerford Rob. AA^alsh, John Lumbard Tho. Whe, Tho. Walsh Jas. Lumbard, John Commerford Jas. Sherlock, Wra. Barrow Geo. Sherlock, T. Knaresborough Nich. Madan, Walter Sherlock David Walsh, Mich Browne Tho. AVhitc, Jolin Sherlock Tho. AVhite, Paul Strong Nich. AVise, Paul Sherlock Tho. Dobbyn, Jas. AA'alsh Rob. Strong, Rob. AA'alsh AA'alter Sherlock, Nich. AA'hite AA'alt. Sherlock, Nich. AA'hite Jas. Briver, Alex. Leonard Rich. Butler, AVm. Lincolne Pat. AA'hite, John Skiddy Jas. AA'alsh, Nich. AA'ise Jasper AA^oodlock, Pat. Meyler Jas. Lumbard, Jas. Lumbard Zabulon Berrick, AA^m. I*hilips APPENDIX. 407 MAYORS. 1 6 1 7*Alexaiider Briver 1626 James Wootllock. 1627 Sir Peter Aylvvard 1628 John Sherlock . 1629 Will. Dobbyn . 1630 Rob. Wise . . 1631 James AValsh 1632 SirTho. Sherlock 1 633 Sir Tho. Gough 1634 Rich. Strong 1635 John Skiddy 1 636 Rich. Butler . 1637 James White 1638 Nich. Wise . . 1 639 Rob. Lumbard . 1640 ]Mathew Grant . 1641 Francis Briver . 1 642 Tho. White . . 1643 Redmond Gerald 1644 Luke White. . 1645 Garret Lincolne 1646 Paul Wadding . 1647 John Bluet . . 1 648 Sir John Walsh 1649 John Levett . . 1650 John AyUvard . SHERIFFS. John Murphy, Tho. Burgess Rob. Leonard, INIatt. Grant Barth. Lincolne, Wm. Lincolne Paul Sherlock, John Levett John Fagan, Wm. Cleere Tho. White, Jas. Lumbard Tho. Maine, Pat. White Nich. Browne, And. AVise Christ. Sherlock, Nich. Strong Math. Grant, Rich. Nicholas Wm. Lincolne, Garret Lincolne Fra. Briver, Rich. Fitz Nicholas John Levett, Rich. Fitz Nicholas John Bluet, Girke Morgan Luke White, John Fitzgerald Matt. Porter, Henry White John Power, Wm. Woodlock Wm. English, Tho. Walsh Mich. Sherlock, And. White Nich. Jones, Laur. White Peter Morgan, John Lincolne Edvv. Geraldine, John Walsh Francis Butler, INIartin Gall And. iNIorgan, Bar. Sherlock Nich. Geraldine, Jas. Lynham Math. Everard, Rich. Fitzgerald (From 1650 to 1656 the city was governed by Commissioners appointed by Oliver Cromwell.) Tho. Coote, Edw. Smart Wm. Cooper, Tho. Wall is Heniy Seagar, John Morris John Gregory, John Bamblet Sam. Brismead, Sam. lirowne Geo. A\'aters, Rich. Wilkinson Chr. Trineman, Rob. Tunbridge Math. Johnson, Zach. Clayton Tho. Briscoe, Wm. DapwcU Tho. Prince, Wm. Fuller Rich. Barret, Nath. Marriot Tho. Eyres, ^\"\\\. llurst Tho. Eyres, Edw. Stone Dav. (Jwens, Joseph Osborne Franc Knowles, \Vill. Joy Joseph Ivie, \V in. Lamb * From the year 1C17 to the ^ear 162G, there was no sclllcd governiiipnt, the niagistriites, for refusing the oatli of supremacy, and for nonconformity, ^^e^c turned out, and sent |)riboner.') to Cork. 1656 Geo. Cawdron 1657 Tho. Watts . . . . 1658 Andrew Rickard 1659 John Houghton 1660 SirTho. Dancer . . 1661 Wm. Halsey . . . 1 662 Wm. Bolton . 1 663 John Eyeres . 1 664 Tho. Christmas 1665 Geo. Deyos . 1 666 And. Rickard 1667 Tho. Exton . 1 668 John Heavens 1 66'.) John Heavens 1670 Will. Hurst . 1671 Tho. Bolton . • Fmni tho vrar If. 17 t 1 the V 408 1672 1673 1674 1675 1676 1677 1 G7S 167!) 1680 16.S1 1682 1683 1684 1 685 1686 1 687 1 6HH 1689 APPENDIX. MAYORS. Ileniy Aland Tho. Coote . Joseph Ivie . Mich. Head . Henry Scagar ^\'m. Cooper Wni. Denis Rich. Seay . Zach. Clayton Wm. Fuller . Rich. Mabank W in. Fuller . Mich. Head . Wm. Ciodrick Wni. Godrick David Lloyde Tho. ^\^ise . Nich. Porter . 1690 1691 1 692 1693 1694 1695 1696 1697 1698 1699 1700 1701 1702 1703 1704 1705 1706 1707 1708 1709 1710 1711 1712 1713 1714 1715 the Protestant gov David Lloyde , David Lloyde David Lloyde . Francis Barker , Joseph Hopkins Rich. Christmas John jNIason Sir John Mason Will. Smith . Tho. Smith . John Head . Theod. Jones Wm. Weekes John Lamb and John Lapp ^\^m. Jones . David Lewis James Eccles SIIRRIFFS. Mich. Head, Rob. Seay Wm. Dennis, Rich. Watridge And. Lloyd, Tho. Ilitchings Nath. Marriot, Edw. ('oUins Wm. (iodrick, John Raniblet Sam. Taylor, Franc. Barker Benj. Powel, Jos. Hopkins Rich. Mabank, Tho. Foulks Henry Aland, Will. Smith John Snow, Theod. Jones Pat. iNIoore, Ben. Marriot Jonath. Aland, Joseph Bare Edw. Collins, Francis Barker David Lloyd, Francis Barker Theod. Jones, Tho. Smith John \\'inston, Ben. Lamb ^\'m. Dobbyn, John Aylward Tho. Lee, John Donnaghow (The city surrendered to King William, July 25, 1690, and crnment restored.) Ben. Bolton, Ben. Lamb Sam. Austin, Tho. Evans Sam. Austin, Tho. Evans John Head, John Lamb Samuel Frith, Charl. Hart Charles Hull, David Lewis John Lapp, Wm. Weekes John Lapp, AVm. Weekes Wm. Jones, Jas. Eccles Caleb Wade, Rob. Cilen Charles Bolton, Rich. Graves Rich. Morris, Edm. Feild Jas. M'Carrol, Wm. Morgan John Francis, Joshua Cockran Tho. Aikenhead, Rob. Backas Joseph Price, Wm. Carr John Moore, John Morgan Jas. Eccles, afterwards ? t i t^ • ^ tt- T\r *• Tx . , T • r John Espaisj;net, W m. Martm David Lewis ) * ° David Lewis . . . Francis Barker, Ben. INIorris Sir John jNIason . . Wm. Eeles, Jeremy Gayot David Lewis . * . . Tho. Head, Wm. Eeles David Lewis . . . Jas. Medlicot, John Morris John iSIason .... Arth. Taylor, John Graves Francis Barker . . . Arth. Taylor, John Graves Sam. Austin .... Arth. Taylor, John Graves Tho. Christmas . . . Rob. \Vest, John Barker APPENDIX. -109 MAYORS. 1 7 1 G William Jones 1717 Thomas Aikenliead 1718 Thomas Aikenhead 1719 Benjamin Morris 1720 John Moore . 1721 Thomas Aikenhead 1722 John Morris . 1/23 Joseph Ivie 1724 William Alcock 1725 Thomas Christmas 1 726 Simon Vashon 1 727 Simon Newport 1 728 Edward Weekes 1729 Joseph Ivie 1 730 Henry Mason . 1731 Richard Weekes 1732 John Moore . 1733 William Barker 1734 Henry Mason . 1735 William Morgan 1736 Ambrose Congreve 1 737 Samuel Barker 1 738 Simon Vashon, jun. 1739 Simon A ashon, jmi. 1 740 Robert West . . . 1741 Samuel Barker 1 742 Robert Glen . . . 1743 Cornelius Bolton . 1744 Beverly Usher 1 745 William Eeles 1 746 Christmas Paul . 1747 Francis Barker 1748 Thomas Christmas an Robert Glen 1 749 William Paul . . 1750 William Paul . . . 1 7o 1 William Paid held over George Back as 1752 Samuel Barker 1753 William Alcock . 1 754 William Morgan 1755 Thomas Miles . 1756 Simon Newport . 1757 Henry Alcock. . 1758 Thomas West 1759 Btrijatuiii Morris SHERIFFS. Joseph Ivie, William Roclie Arthur Taylor, William Roche William Barker, John Barker John Barker, A\'iUiam Roche Wm. Thompson, Simon Newport Jeremiah Gayot, John Barker Joseph Price, John Graves Edward Weekes, Robert Glew Richard Weekes, Wm. Weekes Arthur Taylor, Wm. Martin Bev. Usher, Edward Harrison William Eeles, Joiin Barker William Jones, Thomas Roacli Stephen Lapp, Samuel Barker William Roach, Thomas Roach Alexander Boyde, Wm. Alcock Henry Alcock, William Morris William Eeles, John Barker John Barker, Jos. Price Peter A'ashon, William Morgan John Barker, William Martin Thomas Alcock, Francis Barker William Dobbyn, Corn. Bolton William Price, Francis Barker David Lewis, George Backa^ Cieorge Backas, John Portiugal Phineas Barret, Jeft'ry Paul John ^Morris, Robert West Thomas Miles, John Portingal William Paul, John Price George Backas, Hans Wallace George Norrington, George ( arr [ Michael Hobbs, John Boyd John Portingall, Geo. Wilkinson Daniel Ivie, John Lyon > John Portingall, Thouias Carr f John Portingall, John Price ■} (2IstJune,1753,) George Nor- (^ rington in the room of Price Francis Price, Benjamin Morris J William IIot)bs, (ieorge Norring- ^ ton (who died), (ieo. Laiukr Jas. Henry Hevnett, Hob. liackas Francis I'rice, Robert DacUa- .Samuel Newport, \\'illiam Batc^ William liates, Francis Price William Bites. William llarkcr I) i> 410 17C0 1761 1762 1763 1 76-1 1765 1766 1767 1768 1 769 1770 1771 1772 1773 1774 1775 1776 1777 1778 1779 1780 1781 1782 1783 1784 1785 1786 1787 1788 1789 1790 1791 1792 1793 1794 1795 1796 1797 1798 1799 1800 APPENDIX. MAYORS. iMichacl Ilobbs* . . Micliaelllobbshcld over Cornelius Bolton . Thomns Miles (icorgc Wilkinson William Alcock . John Lyon Henry Alcock William Price . . \Villiam Alcock . Bolton Lee . . Benjamin INIorris . Francis Barker . \\'illiam Bates William Hobbs . John Lander . James Henry Reynett James Henry Reynett Henry Alcock, jun. Simon Newport . Samuel Morgan . William Paul . William Alcock . Simon John Ncwpor James INIoore . William Newport John Alcock . Samuel King . Benjamin INIorris ^Villiam Weekes Thomas Alcock James Ramsay Thomas Price . Sir Simon Newport, Kt Thomas Price . . , (Thomas Price died 1793, and James Moore was elected.) SUKKIFFS. William Bates, AV'illiam Barker > Jas. Henry Reynett, Win. Barker William Bates, William Barker Jas.. Henry Reynett, Wm. Barker William Bates, \\'iUiam Barker William Bates, William Barker John Lander, Willian\ Barker William Bates, \\'iiruim Barker William Bates, ^^'illiam Barker W^illiam Bates, Thomas Jones Richard Kearney, ^^'illiam Price Samuel INIorgan, Ro])ert Lyon James jNIoore, Wm. Alcock, jUn. James Kearney, John Alcock Jas. Moore, Adam Rogers, jun. Richard Kearney, John Alcock J Richard Kearney, John Alcock, \ held over for want of an election Daniel I vie, Thomas Alcock Thomas Price, Sanniel King John Usher, Samuel King Thomas Alcock, Sanniel King William Barrett, James Ramsay James Ramsay, James Sempill James Ramsay, Thomas Price Thomas Price, George Boate John Burchall, Simon Newport Thomas Backas, ^Mlliam Roachc Thomas Backas, ^Villiam Roachc ^Mlliam Roache, John Denis Thomas Backas, Edm. Stevenson Thomas Sargent, Edm. Stevenson Thomas Backas, Henry Sargent Thomas Backas, Samuel Boyce John Denis, George Cottom in the Mayoralty, l/th November, Edmond Stevenson . Benjamin Morris, jun. Simon Newport . James SempiU Samuel Boyce James Sempill Samuel King . George Cottom, Robert Hunt Thomas Backas, Edward Briscoe John Burchall, George Cottom John Burchall, Corn.L. Wallace John Burchall, William Kearney John Burchall, Edw. V. Briscoe John Burchall, Edw, V. Briscoe * Michael Hobbs held to the 15th February, 1762, when Cornelius Bolton, Mayor, James Henry Reynett and William Barker, SherifFf , were sworn into office by virtue of three peremptory mandamuses, which issued out oftlie Court of King's Bench, and directed to the said I\Iichael Hobbs for that purpose. APPENDIX. 411 1801 1802 1803 1804 1805 1806 1807 1808 1809 1810 I81I 1812 1813 1814 J8I5 1816 1817 1818 1819 1820 1821 1822 1823 1824 MAYORS. Samuel Moigaii . . James Henry Reynett Henry Alcock James Henry Reynett James IMoore . . . Robert Lyon . William Alcock , . Robert Lyon . . . John Bnrchall Cornelius Bolton John Denis James Henry Reynett Henry Sargent Robert Lyon . , . Harry Alcock Cornelius Bolton Samuel Morgan Sir John Newpor James Hackett Samuel King . William JNIurphy Echvard Wcekes James Hackett Sir Simon Newport SHERIFFS. John Denis, Edward Weekes John Burchall, James Hackett John Burchall, John Snow Henry Sargent, James Hackett Heniy Sargent, Jas. ^Vallace Wm. Murphy, Jas. H. Reynett John Denis, James Burkitt Nicholas B. Skottowe, M. Evelyn Jas. H. Reynett, Robert Carew William Kearney, AVm. Hassard James Burkitt, John Perkins James Hackett, Wm. Hassard Sir Nich. Skottowe, Wm. Johnson James Burkitt, Henry Alcock (Henry Alcock resigned and James Hackett was elected.) James Hackett, Com. Bolton James Hackett, John Lyon James Hackett, Henry Alcock Henry Alcock, William W^eekes Henry Alcock, Henry H. Hunt Henry Alcock, William Hobbs Wm. Weekes, Alex. M. Alcock Wm. Bl. Ardagh, Richard Pope Samuel Newport, John Harris Sam. Newport, Mat. Poole, M.D. INDEX. Abbies and Priories, in the city of Waterford, 120; at Bolhendesart and at Mothill, 000; at Strad- bally, 301; at Dungarvan, 311 and 312; at Clashmore, 324 ; at Lisraore, 334 ; at Molana, 359. Absentees, law against them, 22, 42. Aftane, engagement there, 53; New Aflfane, 335. Aglish, 324. Ailmer, Chief Justice, objection of the citizens to his advancement, 42; his way of accounting for the decay of Ireland, 43. Alcock, Wm. Esq., his address to the citizens, 95. Aldermen of Waterford in James the Second's time, 87. Almshouses, 203. Ancient poem in praise of Water- ford, 219. Annstown, 259. Apartment for widows, 167. Ardmore, 325; round tower at, 326. Arms and Motto of the city of Wa- terford, 22, 30, 226. Atherton, IJishop of Waterford, shameful treatment which he ex- perienced, 66. Aylward, John, his conduct towards Cromwell, 72. Bailiffs of Waterford, 403. Balleen, the seat of Dean Scott, 348. Ballinacourty, rnarl)i(; and copper at, 320. Ballivoncy, 301. Ballycashen, 246. Baliyclougli castle, 293. Ballygunner, 233. Ballyiameen, 270. Ballymacaw, 244. Ballymacdane, engagement there, 22. Bally M'Kee, 360. Ballynikill, 233. Ballyscanlan, lake, 263. Banks, failure of several of them, 105. Beacon towers, 175. Bellake, 246. Bessborough, Earl of, his improve- ments in the county of Kilkenny, 285. Bilberry rock, geological section of, 231. Bishoprics of Lismore and Water- ford, valuation of, ix; when first united, 335. Bishop's Palace in Waterford, 167. Blackwater river, 333. Blakeney, General, 277. Bohan, a baker, his connection with the rebellion, 101. " Bold Heart," a blacksmith of VVa- terford, 98. Bolhendesart, religious houses at, 297. Bolton, Captain, his attack on the castle of Fatlock, 73. Bolton, Cornelius, Esq., his cotton manufactory at Cheek-pomt, 237. Bonmahon, 272. Boyne, battle of the, celebration of it in Waterford, 98. Bricky river, 331. Bridges, 172, 175. Brownrigg, Mr., his zealous exer- tions, 174. Brownstown Head, 24.'), 247. Butler, John, his spirited conduct when mayor of VVat(!rford, 24. Butlerstown Castle attacked by Cromwell, 76. 414 1 N D E X. Cap of Maintenance granted to tlie citizens of Waturford, 40. Cappocjuin, .'J48, 354. Caravats and Shanavests, 103. Carew, Sir Peter, dies at Kilicenny, 53. Carew, Mr. Sliapland, his spirited conduct, 95. Carrick-on-Suir, taken by Crom- well, 70; town of, 270. Carrickbeg, monastery and curious steeple at, 287. Castles, at Lismore, 15, 338, 345; in Waterford, 119; on the Little Island, 234; at Crook, 237; Cul- len castle, 256; surmise respect- ing them, 257; at Carrickbeg, 290; neyr Churchtown, 293; Ballyclough castle, 293; Darinlar castle, 295; castle of Feddens and other ruins near Rathgormuck, 296; at Clonea, 299; at Kilmac- thomas, 301; near Stradbally, 303; at Dungarvan, 306, 312; at Modelligo and Whitechurch, 314; at Kitbree, 354; Strancally castle, 358; castles Conagh and Castlereagh, 360. Cathedral of Waterford, ancient MSS. 131; devastations under Cromwell, 138; description of the old building, 141 ; of the new building, 146. Catholic committee, 93. Caves nearDunmore, 243; at Shan- don and in the parish of White- church, 319; at Strancally, 358. Chamber of commerce of Water- ford, 170. Chapels and meeting-houses in W^a- terford, 160; in Dungarvan, 311. Chaplain, Mrs., her statement re- specting Cromwell, 82. Charitable loan, 197. Charters granted to the citizens of Waterford, 16, 18, 21, 22; char- ter withdrawn, 65; Charles the First's new charter, 65 ; KingWil- liam's charter, 87; review of all the charters, 211. Chearnley, lead mine on his estate, 318. Cheek-point, 236. Christmas llichard, Esq. his exer- tions wlien mayor, 203 ; ancient poem on the charters of Water- ford, 219. Church, dej)lorable state in the 17th century, 66. ChTirches in Waterford, 130; cathe- dral, 131; St. Olave's, 155; St. Patrick's, 157; French church, 157; churches in ruins, 160. Church property, inaccuracies in the statements respecting it, vii. Churchtown, curious monuments at, 290; woollen manufactory, 293. Clashmore, 17, 324. Clodagh river, 280, 300. Clonea, village and castle of, 299, 305. Clonegam, parish church and round tower of, 283. Clonkoscoran castle, 81. Clonmel, commons of, 295, 360. Clough-lowrish, or the speaking- stone, 304. Clyn, John, 19, 287. Coinage of Waterford, 22, 112. Colligan, 300; caveat, 319. Congreve, John, Esq. his seat, 294. Coolfin, 270. Coolnamuck, demesne and family of, 289, 290. Copper mines in the city of Water- ford, 207 ; at Annstown and Bon- mahon, 262, 272 ; at Dromana, 318; at Ballinacourty, 320; near Lismore, 353. Cork, Earl of, his unjustifiable con- duct, 66; curious particulars re- specting him, 338. Corporation of Waterford, their seal, 133; their controul over the cathedral, 135; agreement be- tween both parties, 135, 136; re- fusal of the corporation to contri- bute to the repairs, 137. Coshmore and Coshbride, barony of, 332. Court-house at Waterford, 169. Cromlechs or Druidical altars, in, the liberties of Waterford, 229; at Kilmacombe-hill, 243; near Waterford, 243; at Sugar-loaf-hill, 263; probable origin of them, 264; at Don-Isle, 265; atGurteen,294; near Stradbally, 303. INDEX. 415 Cromwell, Oliver, 43; his proceed- ings in the county of Waterford, 67 to 85. Cromwell's rock, 227. Crook parish, 233, 237. Cruach, or the Heap, 266. CuUen castle, 256. Cummeragh mountains, 275.' Cunney rocks, 246. Curraghmore, 78, 279; immense stone in that neighbourhood, 285. Currey, Colonel, 351. Curry, Dr. 93. Curwen's Tour, allusion to that work, vii. Cushcam, 305. Custom-house, at Waterford, 165. Dallygan river, 303. Danish towers, 120. Darinlar, 295. Dean of Waterford, the first ap- pointment of one, 1 3 1 . Deanery-house, 167. Declan, St. 325 ; Declan's stone and St. Declan's well, 326. De Courcy, John, appointed Go- vernor of Waterford, 16. Decies without Drum, 300; Decies within, 320. Desert, parish of, 270. Desmond, Earl of, attacks Water- ford, 30; his dispute with the Earl of Ormond, 53 ; his affected loyalty, 54; his death, 59- Devonshire, the Duke of, his castle at Lismore,15; his improvements in Dungarvan, 308; at Lismore, 333, 350. Dickson, Rev. Mr. 319. Dispensary at Waterford, 198. Distilleries, 206. Dominicans or Black Friars, 123. J Jondory. See lleginald's Tower. l^oneraile, Earl of, 77. Don-Isle Castle, 78, 259. Don-Isle, Countess of, her extraor- dinary courage, 79. Donoughmore, Earl of, his seat near Clonmel, 360. Downes, Rev. Dr. his extensive cha- rities, 201. Dromana, 315. Druidical altars. See Cromlechs. Drumcannon, 247. Drumlohan, 303. Drum Mountain, 321. Drury, Sir William, his proceedings at Waterford, 55. Dunbrattin, cave at, 271. Dungarvan, incorporation of the town, 23; taken by Cromwell, 81 ; description of the town, 305. Dunmore, description of the village, the pier, steam packets, &c. 238 to 242. Edgecombe, Sir Richard, his recep- tion at Waterford, 28. Education in Ireland, obstacles to it, 188. Eeles, Henry, his burial-place, 349. Elizabeth, Queen, 50, 62, 63. Exchange, in Waterford, 165. Exports and imports, 207. Faithleg, 233. Fatlock castle, 72. Fedden's castle, 296. Fenoagh, 270. Ferral, Governor, 70, 73. Fever hospital in Waterford, 196. Fews, parish, 300. P'isheries of Dungarvan, 309; Lis- more, 351. Fish house at Waterford, 167. Fitzgerald, or Geraldine family, 41 ; prophecy of one of them, 42. Fitzgerald, John, Esq. 235. Foley, Mr. his geological remarks, 231. Fords in the river Suir, 173. Foy, Bishop, 181. French church in Waterford, 126, 157. Friaries in the city and county, 19, 123, 125. 301. Frogs, discovery of living frogs in a solid rock, 319. CJaliowglasses and Kernes, 59. Gaols, 169. (jatchcll and Co. their glass manu- factory, 208. Gaultier, barony of, 233. Geneva, village of, 237; settlement of Gcnevese, 238 ; barrack, 238. Geology of the county, 207,241, 255, 416 INDEX. ■258, 26-2, 266, 267, 271, 272, 275, 294, 317, 325, 331, 353, 360. Geology of tlie liberties of the city, 227^ 230. Gilcagh, 270. (jlunaheiry, 360. (Jlasshouses in Waterford, 20G. Ulengall, Earl of, 294. (ilenribbon, valley of, 352. Lilibbs and other ancient costume, 45, 52. Gore, Ur. Hugh, 168. Government of the city, 83, 210. Greham, Rev. John, his school at Waterford, 179. Gurteen, 294. Hammermen, 91- Harbour commissioners, their zea- lous exertions, 173. Henry the Second, lands in Water- ford, 1 1 ; visits Lismore, his pro- ceedings at both places, 13. Henry the Third grants a charter to the city, 18. Henry the Seventh, ditto, 25; grants a motto and other honours to the citizens, 30, 32, 40. Henry the Eighth, his charter, 39. Holy Ghost Hospital, 126, 189. House of Industry, 193. Hughes, William, Esq. his sugges- tions in favour of banking in the ' back strand at Tramore, 361. James the Second, feelings of the Irish on his accession, 62; new models the corporation of Water- ford, 87; his charter immediately set aside, 88; anecdote of him at Lismore, 347. Icane islands, 246, 259. John, King of England, lands in Waterford, 15; his palace, 16; his proceedings, second visit, 17. John's river, 175. Jones, General, dies at Dungarvan, 82. Jones, Sir William, 65. Ireton, General, takes Waterford, 83. Iron ore, in the Cummeragh moun- tains, 276 ; near Lismore, 353. Kernes and Gallowglasses, 59. Kilbarry, 31, 227, 229. Kilbarrymeaden, 271. Kilbree, castle at, 354. Kilbride, 246. Kilbunny church, 280. Kilcaragh, 233. Kilcockan, 332. Kilcrump, 320. Kildare, Earl of, 24, 28. Kilgobonet, 304. Killea, 233. Killoteran school, 185. Killure, 227, 233. Kilmacleague, 246. Kilmacombe, 233. Kilmacthomas, 80, 300. Kilmanehin, 360. Kilmeaden, castle of, 76 ; parish of, 246, 263. Kilmolash, 320. Kilmoleran, 270. Kilmurrin strand, 274. Kilronan, 231, 246, 360. Kilrossinta, 300. Kilrush, 300. Kil St. Nicholas, 233. Kilwatermoy, 332. Kinsale, 28. Kinsalebeg, 320. Knights of St. John, their establish- ments in Waterford, 227,237, 302. Knockaderry, 267. Knockdry, 273. Knockhouse, 231. Knocklofty, 360. Knockmeledown mountain, 347, 348 Knockmoan castle, 81, 314. Lead mines, 262, 272. 318, 353. Lee, Ussher, Dean of Waterford, 131. Leper hospital, 199. Le Poer, or Power family, 76. Limestone, near Tramore, 255; Don-Isle, 266; Tankardstown, 271 ; near Clonmel, 294; at Lis- more, Saltibridge, and at Dungar- van, 319; Kilmanehin, 360. Levellers, 93. Liberties of the city, 227. Linen manufacture, its introduction into Waterford, 205. INDEX. 417 Lismore, castle, &c. 15, 333, 338; deer park, 354-. Lisnekil, 246. Little Island, 234. Loughdahy, 246. Lumbard, Francis, his tomb, 143. Lying-in Charity, 202. M'Allister, Mr. 337. M'Grath, Donald, his tomb at Dun- garvan, 313. M'Grath, John, his tomb at Lis- more, 337. Mahon river, 272, 301. Malcomson, Mr. 269. Manufactures of Waterford, 205. 207. JMarble, where found, 320. ]\Iarket liouse at Waterford, 166. JMason, Mr. his exertions when mayor, 203. Mayors of Waterford, dignified con- duct of one of them, 24 ; a sword and cap to be borne before them, 39 ; refusal to take the oath of supremacy, 65; list of the may- ors, 403. ' Meeting-houses in Waterford, 165. Mendicity Society, 202. Middlethird, barony of, 246. Milles, Bishop, 155, 179, 326. Mines and Minerals, lead and silver mines in the city, 207 ; lead and copper at Annstown and Bonma- hon, 262; lead and silver near Donlsle, 266 ; silver at Bonma- hon, 272. 275; iron in the Cum- meragh mountains, 276 ; copper at Dromana, and lead mine at Kilkeamy, 318; iron atArdmore, 322; iron, copper and lead near Lismore, 353. Mocollop, 332. Modelligo, 300. 314. Molana, 359. Monamintra, spas at, 243. Monasteries in Waterford, 120; at Carrickbeg, 287. See Abbies. Monevoliah mountains, 282. Monksland, 270. Mothill, 270; abbey, 297. Mount Druid, 243. Mountjoy, Lord Deputy, attacks Waterford, 63. Mu.sgrave, Richard, Esq. his seat at Tourin, 318. E e Musgrave, Mr. his plans for drain- ing the lands of Kilbarry, 229. Newcastle, parish of, 246. Newspapers of Waterford, 208. Newtown Head, 244. 247. Newtown, 300. Nier river, 360. Nymph Bank, 309. O HedriscoUs and Powers, engage- ment between them and the citi- zens of Waterford, 2 1 . ONeille, Sir Neale, 129. Oon-a-glour and Oon-a-rnort, ca- verns, 319, 320. Ormond, James, the first earl of, founds a friary, 19. 287; his quarrel with Desmond, 53. 69; his expeditious journey to Water- ford, 66. Ormond, Marquis of, his defence of Passage, 70. 73. Orphan houses, 202. Osborne, Sir William, his seat at Tickencore, 295. Ostmen, Danes, or Easterlings, set- tle in Waterford, 10, 11 ; privi- leges, &c. 13. 18. 111. 131. 233. Ottrington, John, Esq. his tomb at Kilmeaden, 77. 268. Paper mills at Phair Brook, 269. Papists, their expulsion from Wa- terford, 85. Passage taken by storm, 73 ; town of, 237. Paul, Sir Joshua, 95. Peasantry, their respect for ancient buildings, 296; superstition of the, 326; present state of the, 381. Pelham, Sir William, his reception at Waterford, 55. Pembroke, Earl of, surrenders Wa- terford, 11. Pembrokestown, 266. Penitentiary at Waterford, 170. Penrose, Messrs. their glass manu- factory, 208. " Poor scholars," 179- Population, 4. Pouldrew, 269. Power, Edmund, his seat at Gur- teen, 294. Powers-country, situation of the place so called, 373, 279. 41« I N D K X. Preccptories, '227. Preston House, \\';iterford, 84. Preston, (General, surrenders Wa- terford, 83. Printinij, when first introduced into Waterford, 49. Priories in Waterford, 18. 120. Public buildings in Waterford, 165. Purcell, Sir Hugh, his tomb, 130. Quakers expelled the city, 85. Quay of Waterford, 178. Raleigh, Sir Walter, 57. 315. 338. Rathgormuck, 296. Rathmoylan, 233. 244. Rebellion of 1798, 99. Reginald's Tower, 12. 23. 112. Reisk, parish of, 246, 263. Reynett, Mr. his seat. Mount Druid, 243. Rhincrew, 359. Rhineshark harbour, 246. Rice, Edmund, schools founded by him, 187. Rice, James, his chapel, 141; his tomb in the cathedral, 151. Richard the Second lands in Water- ford, 19, 20. Right Boys, 94. Rinagonah, 320. Rivers, Suir, 2; John's river, 175; Mahon,272, 301; Clodagh, 280; Dallygan, 303; Bricky, 331; • Blackwater, 333; Nier, 360. Roman Catholics expelled from Wa- terford, 85 ; their situation subse- quent to the Reformation, 90; pray for the king, 94 ; chapels in Waterford, 161 ; great chapel at Dungarvan, 311. Roman Catholic schools, 187. 312. Rosmeer parish, 300. Rossmore, glen of, 361. Round tower of Ardmore, 326. St. Catherine's Abbey, 120. St. John's Priory, 120. St. Martin's Castle, 119. St. Olave's Church, 155. St. Patrick's Church, 157. " St. Patrick'.s cow," curious tradi- tion, 355. St. Saviour's Monasterv, 120. St. Tliomas's Church, loO. - Salmon fishery at Lismore, 351. Salt manufactories, 206. Sargent, a publican of Waterford, his connection with the rebellion, 98. 101. Scott, Dean; his seat near Lismore, 350. Schools in Waterford, 179. Sea Horse transport lost inTramore Bay, 248. Seal of the Corporation of Water- ford, 133. Seskinan parish, 300. Shanavests and Caravats, 103. Shandon, cave at, 319. Sheriffs of Waterford, 403. Ship-building in Waterford, 207. Shrewsbury, Earl of, obtains a grant of the county and city, 21. Sidney, Lord Deputy, attacks Wa- terford, 52; his reception there, 53. Silver mines in Waterford, 207; near Donlsle, 266; atBonmahon, 272. 275. Simnel, Lambert, attempt to raise him to the throne, 24. Slate quarry at ^Vhitfield, 267 ; near Lismore, 352. Sledy castle, 314. Smith, Dr. curious mistake made by him, 124. Spas, 243. Steam packets between Waterford and INIilford, 242. ' Stokes, Rev. Mr. his school at Lis- more, 350. Stradbally, 301. Strancally Castle, 358. Strangers' Friend Society, 202. Strongbow, Earl of Pembroke, sub- dues Waterford, 1 1 ; his mar- riage celebrated in that city, 1 1 . Sugar Loaf Hill, cromlech at, 263; ancient church, 264. Suir river, 2, 172. 236. 360. Summerville, 244. 246. Talbot, Earl of .Shrewsbury, obtains I a grant of tJie city, 2 1 . Tallow, 356. Tankardstown, limestone at, 271 . Temple Brie, mineral veins at, 275. INDEX. 419 Temple Michael, 33-2. 359. Thomond, Earl of, (35. Tick encore, 295. Tory Hill, 109. Tourin, 318. Towers, Reginald's Tower, 12, 23, 112; Danish, 120; Beacon tow- ers, 1 75 ; round tower at Clon- egam, 283, and at Ardmore, 326; Turgesius's Tower, 12. 119. Trade and commerce, 203. Tramore, early engagement there, 22. Tramore, the bay, 245. 253; the back strand, 247 ; suggestions in favour of banking it in, 361 ; the village, 247; the front strand, 248. Travelling, expeditious travelling from London to Waterford, 106. Uniacke, Robert, Esq. his seat near Stradbally, 302. Union, feelings of the inhabitants of Waterford at that period, 102. United Irishmen, their origin and proceedings, 98. 100. Upperthird, barony of, 270. Wager of battle, description of one in the sixteenth century, 60. Wakefield, the historian, incorrect- ness of, vi. 319. Walsh, Nicholas, his gallant con- duct in single combat, 47. Walsh, Patrick, mayor of Water- ford, 55. Warbeck, Perkin, 30. 38. Waterford Institution, 171. Waterford, Marquis of, curious par- ticulars respecting his family, 77 ; his seat at Curraghmore, 279. White, Mr. his ship establishment in Waterford, 208. White, Doctor, his speech before the Lord Deputy in Waterford, 64. White Boys, 93. Whitechurch, 300 ; castle, 314; ca- verns, 319. Whitfield, 267. Widows' apartment, 167. Wogan, Colonel, attacks Waterford, 73. Wolseley, Admiral, his suggestions for improving the bay of Tra- more, 253. Woodhouse, 302. Wyse, Mr. his connection with the Catholic committee, 93. Wyse, Tliomas, Esq. his encourage- ment of trade, 205. Youghal, 315. 331. Young, inaccuracies in his Tour of Ireland, vi. LIST OF THE PLATES. Map of the County .... to face the Title-page. Map of tlie City 109 Reginald's Tower 112 View of Waterford 179 Geological Section 231 Round Tower at Ardmore 327 Anticjuities of Ardmore Cliurth 330 Lisniore ( 'usth; 345 Sketch of tlic Back .Strand at Tr;inioi>; . . . 3G1 LONDON: rniNTEU BY C. nOWORTH, BELL YARD, TEMPLE BAR. ALBEMARLE-STREET, January, 1825. Mr. MURRAY HAS JUST PUBLISHED THE FOLLOWING WORKS. 1. <' Who Wrote ElKfiisr BASIAIKH ?" Considered, and Answered, in Two Letters to Ids Grace the Archbishop of Canterbury. By CHRISTOPHER WORDSWORTH, D.D., Master of Trinity College, Cambridge, and Rector of .Buxgted with Uckfield, Sussex. 8vo. 10s. Gd. 2. MEMOmS of the AFFAIRS of EUROPE, from the Peace of UTRECHT. 4to. 2/, lOs. 3. The BOOK of the ROMAN-CATHOLIC CHURCH, in a Series of Letters addressed to Robert Southey, Esq., LLD., on his BOOK of the CHURCH. By CHARLES BUTLER, Esq., of Lincoln's-Inn. 8vo. 9s. 6(1. 4. A SKETCH of the MANNERS and CUSTOMS of PORTU- GAL, made during a Residence in LisTjonj.in the Years 1821, 22, 23. 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