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ECLECTIC SCHOOL READINGS 
 
 ALICE'S VISIT 
 
 TO 
 
 THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 
 
 BY 
 
 MARY H. KROUT 
 
 AUTHOR OF "HAWAII AND A REVOLUTION," "A LOOKER-ON 
 
 ^MEBICAN BOOK CO 
 
 ^^iL£5A_NCISCO 
 
 NEW YORK •:• ClNCIi^NATJ > Cm^AC^OX % ,'\ 
 
 AMERICAN BOOK COMPANY 
 
-DU-fcZi 
 
 Copyright, 1900, by 
 AMERICAN BOOK COMPANY. 
 
 K rout's HAWAII. 
 
 W. P. 4 
 
 EDUCATION DEFfs 
 
etc 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 Since the Hawaiian Islands have now become a part 
 of the United States, and henceforth their history will 
 be a part of our own, it is important that the children 
 in our schools should learn something of the geography 
 of these islands, and of the manners, custom.s, and 
 history of the people who inhabit them. 
 
 In writing this imaginary journey to the Hawaiian 
 Islands I have described the country and the people as 
 they were studied by me during two actual visits. The 
 volcano of Kilauea was at the time of my visit in a state 
 of great activity, and the account which I have given of 
 the wonderful spectacle was prepared from notes writ- 
 ten within sight of the crater. 
 
 The history of the Hawaiian Islands, though re- 
 stricted as to scene of action, has been as stirring and 
 as dramatic as our own. Within a century the islands 
 were conquered and brought under one government, 
 during which time the race advanced steadily from 
 barbarism to civilization. 
 
 The people are now to undertake that last and 
 greatest of political experiments, self-government, for 
 which their alliance with the United States during the 
 past fifty years has been an excellent preparation. 
 
The study of Hawaiian evolution affords such a 
 variety of incident that it is somewhat difficult to decide, 
 in the preparation of a book for children, what to reject 
 and what to utilize. It is necessary, on the one hand, 
 to consider the importance of customs in shaping the 
 destiny of the people, and, on the other hand, to bear in 
 mind the consequence of filling the impressionable 
 minds of children with painful images and with facts 
 that they cannot reconcile with justice. 
 
 What has been said of the influence of the American 
 missionaries, as the first educators and lawmakers 
 among the Hawaiians, is simply a statement of facts 
 which may be corroborated by reference to the archives 
 of the country. 
 
 Among books that have been especially helpful in 
 the preparation of this work have been J. J. Jarves's 
 "Hawaiian or Sandwich Islands," W. D. Alexander's 
 " A Brief History of the Hawaiian People," Mrs. Judd's 
 "Honolulu," Mrs. Isabella Bird Bishop's "Six Months 
 in the Sandwich Islands," and "The Hawaiian Annual." 
 
 M. H. K. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 I. The Voyage " . .11 
 
 II. Honolulu 18 
 
 III. The Drive to Waikiki 29 
 
 IV. Grass Houses 38 
 
 V. Hawaiian Customs 44 
 
 VI. The Pali 49 
 
 VII. The Visit to Hilo 55 
 
 VIII. The Road to the Volcano .... 60 
 
 IX. In the Crater 69 
 
 X. The Story of Kapiolani . . . . •76 
 
 XI. The Feast 79 
 
 XII. A Sugar Plantation 83 
 
 XIII. Maui 90 
 
 XIV. The Story of Captain Cook .... 96 
 XV. Kauai and the Koula Falls . . . .103 
 
 XVI. An Interesting Scotch Family .... 109 
 
 XVII. The Market iii 
 
 XVIII. Sandalwood 115 
 
 XIX. Insects 118 
 
 XX. Captain Vancouver 122 
 
 XXL The First Missionaries 124 
 
 XXII. More about the Missionaries .... 129 
 
 9 
 
10 
 
 XXIII. The Old Mission House . 
 
 XXIV. The Story of Boki and Liliha 
 XXV. "The Life of the Land". 
 
 XXVI. Mrs. Judd . . . . 
 
 XXVII. MOLOKAI AND THE LePERS 
 
 XXVIII. Father Damien . 
 
 XXIX. A Visit to Father Damien 
 
 XXX. loLANi Palace . 
 
 XXXI. Kapiolani 
 
 XXXII. An Ostrich Farm 
 
 XXXIII. Hawaiian Schools 
 
 XXXIV. The Chinese and their Schools 
 XXXV. GOOD-BY ...... 
 
 135 
 
 142 
 
 145 
 151 
 156 
 
 163 
 167 
 172 
 180 
 186 
 191 
 197 
 202 
 
 Pronunciation of Hawaiian Names and Terms 
 
 207 
 
ALICE'S VISIT TO THE HAWAIIAN 
 ISLANDS 
 
 I. THE VOYAGE 
 
 IF, at the time when this story begins, some one had 
 come to AHce Earle and offered to fulfill her dearest 
 wish, she would have asked, without a moment's hesita- 
 tion, for a trip to Ha-wai'-i. For there was nothing in the 
 world she liked better than traveling, and lately she had 
 heard so much about Hawaii that this was now the place 
 of all places she most longed to see. Imagine her de- 
 light, then, when she was told that her parents had de- 
 cided to take her with them on a visit to the Ha-wai'ian 
 Islands. 
 
 Alice was a clever little girl,who knew much more about 
 geography than most children of her age. She was fond 
 of searching for strange cities and countries on the maps 
 in her father's library. She had been told that the 
 Hawaiian Islands lie almost in the middle of the great 
 Pacific Ocean, and, after a careful search, she found them 
 on the map, — a cluster of tiny specks not so large as the 
 letters of their name. The specks were so very small that 
 it was hard for her to realize that Hawaii, the island for 
 which the group was named, is as large as the state of 
 Connecticut, and that upon another island of the group, 
 
12 
 
 0-a'hu, there is a city called Hon-o-lu'lu, which has 
 over twenty thousand inhabitants. 
 
 Her father told her that the group consists of eight 
 large islands, besides several barren rocks. These eight 
 islands are covered with forests and plantations — great 
 cultivated tracts of land upon which sugar cane is 
 raised. Upon all there are high mountain ridges, with 
 
 Copyright, 1899, ly C. C. Langill. 
 
 Eruption of Mauna Loa in 1899 
 
 peaks that are, or have been, volcanoes. Volcanoes are 
 mountains having near their top an opening in the 
 earth through which heated materials issue forth — 
 streams of melted rock or lava, ashes, mud, water, 
 steam, and gases. A part of each island, at some 
 time, has been buried under this lava, which hardens 
 as it cools, and upon which very few plants can grow. 
 
 On Hawaii, the largest island, two of the mountains, 
 Mau'na Ke'a and Mau'na Lo'a, are nearly fourteen 
 
thousand feet high, and their tops are covered with 
 snow that never melts. 
 
 Alice lived in Chicago, and she was to start on her 
 long journey on the first of February. It was very cold, 
 and the ground was covered with snow and ice. It 
 seemed strange to see her mother putting into the trunk 
 the thin gowns which she wore only in the summer; but 
 
 Interior of a Pullman Car 
 
 she was told that in the Hawaiian Islands it is never 
 cold except high up on the mountains, and that most 
 of the time she would have to wear her light muslin 
 gowns. 
 
 Once Alice had crossed the Atlantic Ocean on her 
 way to England with her mother and father, and now 
 as they took their seats in the Pullman car, for the long 
 ride from Chicago to California, she had the same feel- 
 ing of excitement. 
 
14 
 
 They left Chicago at night, and when Alice awoke in 
 the morning they were crossing a lofty bridge over the 
 Mississippi, which was the broadest river Alice had ever 
 seen. She was much interested in the pretty towns and 
 villages in Iowa, with their rich farms and comfortable 
 houses. At Council Bluffs there was another bridge, 
 over the Missouri River. There are many bluffs upon 
 the shores of this river, and on one of them the Indian 
 tribes long ago held their meetings which gave the city, 
 Council Bluffs, its name. 
 
 By the time they reached the borders of Iowa they 
 had left the snow behind them, and as they went farther 
 and farther west, Alice expected to see the steep summits 
 of the Rocky Mountains, which she knew they were to 
 ascend. This, she thought, would be no easy task for a 
 long train of cars ; but as yet the plains stretched about 
 them on every side, apparently level and unbroken. 
 She did not know that they were mounting higher and 
 higher every moment, and but for an immense stone 
 which had been placed to mark the highest point, 
 she would never have known when they reached the 
 top. 
 
 As they passed over the Sierra Nevada mountains 
 Alice saw the snow piled many feet high along the 
 tracks. But when early the next morning she lifted the 
 curtain and looked out, it seemed as though spring had 
 come upon them during the night, for they were de- 
 scending into the green Sacramento valley, with its 
 vineyards and almond orchards. The trees in all their 
 glory of pink blossoms were beautiful to behold. 
 
 At Oakland they left the train and crossed the bay to 
 
15 
 
 San Francisco. The next day they went on board a 
 ship called the Mariposa, a Spanish word meaning 
 "Butterfly." 
 
 There were a great many people on the decks, some 
 about to sail, and others who had come to see them off. 
 Some of the passengers were going out to New Zealand 
 and Australia, far beyond the Hawaiian Islands. 
 
 Presently a little Japanese steward beat the gong, the 
 visitors went ashore, and in a few moments the .ship 
 
 The Golden Gate 
 
 began to move slowly from the dock out into the harbor 
 and toward the Golden Gate. Alice had heard a great 
 deal about the Golden Gate ; she was a little surprised 
 to find that it was not a real gate, but two high cliffs 
 that rose opposite each other at the narrow entrance of 
 the bay. The ocean was just outside, and it was dan- 
 gerous for ships to venture through the narrow opening 
 except in broad daylight. Upon the ocean the water 
 was much rougher than upon the bay, where the high, 
 
i6 
 
 steep shores afforded shelter from the wind ; and the 
 Mariposa rolled and tossed about upon the waves. 
 
 Although it was winter, it was quite warm, and Alice 
 and her parents were able to stay upon the deck from 
 the moment the ship left the dock. 
 
 As they sailed toward the south, it grew warmer every 
 day, and Alice was soon glad to take off her heavy serge 
 dress and put on a little linen frock. She liked the 
 Pacific Ocean much better than the Atlantic. 
 
 When she went to England she sailed from New York 
 in July, but as soon as she was out of sight of land it 
 grew cold and the sea became very rough. There was 
 much fog and rain, and she had scarcely a glimpse of 
 the sun until the shores of Ireland were in sight. The 
 air of the Pacific, on the other hand, was as warm and 
 soft in February as in June. 
 
 For the first few days great flocks of snow-white sea 
 gulls followed the ship ; then they disappeared, and 
 numbers of brown gulls circled about the vessel, diving 
 and struggling for the food tossed overboard by the 
 
 passengers. These 
 birds came out to 
 meet the ship, and 
 flew about it all the 
 way to Honolulu. 
 
 Once in a while 
 Alice saw, a long 
 distance off, a dark 
 wavy line, show- 
 ing just above the water, out of which rose a slender 
 stream like a fountain ; this was caused by a whale 
 
 Flying Fish 
 
17 
 
 spouting water high into the air through its nostrils. 
 But the flying fish were the most interesting of all. 
 They rose from the dark blue waves like little flocks of 
 snow-white birds. They did not really fly, but leaped 
 out of the water with great force and were borne along 
 by their wet fins, which served as sails. 
 
 When the voyage was nearly at an end, Mr. Earle 
 pointed out a beautiful bird which he said the sailors 
 call the ''boatswain bird." It is pure white, with two 
 long feathers in the tail like graceful streamers. It 
 builds its nest and rears its young in high cliffs upon 
 the land, and its wings are so strong that it can fly far 
 out to sea in search of food. 
 
 It rained very often as the vessel approached the 
 Hawaiian Islands, but the warm, bright showers were 
 soon over. Sometimes Alice could see two or three 
 black clouds just above the sky, out of which the rain 
 was streaming in long, slanting lines. The clouds were 
 really many miles apart, so that while it was raining in 
 one place, the sun was shining in another. With these 
 frequent showers there were to be seen beautiful rain- 
 bows. They were of brilliant hues, red, yellow, green, 
 blue, and violet, each color separate and distinct, and 
 the perfect arch seemed to spring from the sea. The 
 islands are so noted for their beautiful rainbows that the 
 natives called them " The Islands of Rainbows." 
 
 The first land that was sighted was the island of 
 Mo-lo-kai^ It looked, in the distance, like a huge tor- 
 toise resting on the water. Upon this island many poor 
 people are confined who are ill with a terrible disease, 
 called leprosy, which can never be cured. They are 
 
 KROUT'S HAWAII — 2 
 
i8 
 
 sent away from their homes on the other islands, so 
 that their friends and relatives may not be in danger of 
 catching the disease from them and becoming lepers 
 like themselves. 
 
 Oahu appeared still farther away. The coast was 
 very bare and rugged, seamed and rent into chasms, 
 and reddened by fierce fires, ages before, when the 
 island had been violently thrown up from the bed of 
 the ocean. 
 
 Upon a high, rounded crag called Ko'ko Head, there 
 was a telephone station. When ships are first seen 
 far out at sea, the news is immediately telephoned to 
 Honolulu, and it is soon known that the ship has arrived 
 in safety and that the voyage is over. 
 
 3><KC 
 
 II. HONOLULU 
 
 JUST outside the harbor of Honolulu a pilot came 
 in a little boat to meet the steamer and guide it 
 among the rocks and shallow places to the dock. 
 
 A number of dark-skinned men rowed the pilot's 
 boat with great ease and skill. These were Hawaiians, 
 the race of people born in the Islands, whose ances- 
 tors lived there, long before Hawaii was known to 
 Americans or Europeans. They wore blue or white 
 cotton clothing ; and around their necks and hats were 
 hung thick wreaths of flowers, which they called leHs. 
 When they reached the ship, a rope ladder was let 
 
19 
 
 down over the side, and up this the pilot climbed and 
 leaped on deck. 
 
 All on board were glad to see him and they asked 
 him a great many questions, for they had been at sea 
 for eight days during which time they had heard no 
 news from the land. 
 
 A little later two other men were taken on board, — 
 the customs officer and the health officer. It is the 
 
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 k^i^-^.:^^^£:'i^m 3^ 
 
 ^^^F^^iss^^^MJp! 
 
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 3;-:;— ^«:«^-i=-\~ . - 
 
 of Honolulu 
 
 business of the health officer to see that everybody 
 on the ship is well. Had there been any contagious 
 disease among the passengers, the ship would have 
 been anchored out in the harbor near an island called 
 the quarantine station, until the sick people were well, 
 and there was no danger to those on the shore. This 
 is very necessary in Honolulu, for the Hawaiians catch 
 contagious diseases very easily, and great numbers of 
 them die. 
 
20 
 
 Sometimes the ship is not even allowed to stop at 
 the quarantine station, and none of the passengers can 
 go ashore except those whose homes are in the Islands. 
 Even they must stay at the quarantine station until 
 the health officer is certain that they are quite well, 
 and free from contagion. 
 
 The customs officer gave Mr. Earle a long sheet of 
 paper containing a great many questions about his age, 
 his business, the country in which he was born, and his 
 family. He was also asked if he had brought in his 
 trunk any articles on which the government had laid 
 a tax, called duty. Alice remembered that similar ques- 
 tions had been asked them in Liverpool, when they 
 went to England, and in Calais, when they went across 
 to France. In Honolulu, as in Liverpool, in Calais, and 
 in New York, the trunks had to be unlocked so that the 
 officers might see what they contained. 
 
 Alice thought that she had never seen anything more 
 beautiful than the harbor. The water was bluer even 
 than the ocean, and there was not a ripple upon its 
 smooth surface, which was crossed with bands of pink, 
 brown, and yellow. There was a long line of ships 
 along the dock. The captain said that once this 
 line of ships had extended along the shore for more 
 than a mile, and that they lay so close together that 
 a man could step from one deck to another. They 
 were sailing vessels that had come out from New 
 England to catch whales, which were to be found in 
 great numbers in the ocean south of the Hawaiian 
 Islands. 
 
 The beach for several miles beyond the city curved 
 
21 
 
 like a crescent along the sea, bordered all the way by 
 groves of cocoa palms. These trees were slender and 
 tall, with smooth trunks and leaves growing in the top 
 like plumes, and they were all bent and twisted by 
 
 Cocoa Palms 
 
 the winds. Here and there among the groves Alice 
 could see fine houses, quite close to the beach. In 
 the city, also, there were a great many trees, and the 
 breeze from the land was as fragrant as though it had 
 blown across a garden full of flowers. 
 
22 
 
 As the ship moved slowly up to the dock, numbers of 
 brown, black-eyed Hawaiian boys swam around the 
 bows and dived for the coins which the passengers 
 threw overboard. The water was so clear that the 
 bright coins could be seen distinctly to a great depth. 
 
 When Alice saw the crowds of people on the dock 
 where she went ashore, it was hard to realize that it 
 
 was winter. She 
 knew that in Chi- 
 cago the ground 
 must still be cov- 
 ered with snow. 
 Here, in Hono- 
 lulu, everybody 
 was dressed in 
 white, the women 
 and children in 
 pretty muslins, and 
 the men in white 
 linen coats and 
 trousers, such as 
 are worn in all 
 warm countries. 
 The white people 
 waiting for their friends to come ashore were mainly 
 Americans. The Hawaiian s resembled those who had 
 rowed the health officer's boat ; they had dark skin, 
 dark straight hair, black eyes, and good features. They 
 spoke a strange, musical language which, of course, 
 Alice could not understand, and they cried to each 
 other, '^A-lo'/ia, Aloha.'' This is the Hawaiian expres- 
 
 Type of Hawaiian Woman 
 
23 
 
 sion for " my love to you," and is used by the natives 
 both when they meet and when they part. 
 
 The women wore odd gowns with yokes and long, 
 full skirts. These were called ko-lo'kus. It was the 
 dress that was designed for them by the first white 
 women who went out to the Islands from New England, 
 and which they learned to wear instead of the long 
 mantles which they themselves knew how to make. 
 The holokus were almost all white, but a few were 
 black, brown, and red. The women, like the men, wore 
 thick wreaths of white, yellow, and scarlet flowers round 
 their hats, and about their necks. Alice thought this 
 a very pretty custom. 
 
 After they left the ship the Earles were driven at 
 once to the hotel. The streets were crooked and nar- 
 row, but far cleaner than the streets of many cities in 
 America. 
 
 Alice had supposed that Honolulu was so far 
 away that one could not buy anything there that one 
 might need, but she saw that the shops were very 
 good. She noticed, too, that ladies who were shop- 
 ping sat in their carriages, while the articles they 
 wanted were brought out to them, which seemed very 
 convenient. 
 
 The men and women passing to and fro, walking 
 leisurely, with none of the hurry and bustle to which 
 Alice was accustomed, were more interesting and amus- 
 ing than any people she had ever seen. Among them 
 were a great many Chinese, Japanese, and Portuguese, 
 as well as sailors from German, EngUsh, Japanese, and 
 American cruisers. 
 
24 
 
 Alice thought that the Hawaiian women who were 
 selling flowers were the oddest of all. They were 
 dressed in calico holokus. The flowers were in bas- 
 kets or were made up into stiff bouquets, or into leis, 
 many of which were worn by the venders themselves. 
 
 Flower Women 
 
 They had brought with them food, and some of them 
 had pet dogs and little pigs. They sat in rows upon 
 mats stretched along the sidewalk, out of the way of the 
 passers-by. 
 
 The hotel had shady balconies above and below, and 
 the grounds were filled with ferns and palms, and many 
 strange, beautiful plants and trees which Alice had 
 
25 
 
 never seen before. The grass all over was very thick 
 and green. One plant, with a large, thick leaf of 
 brightest green, was the banana. A tree with fine, 
 feathery leaves was the algaroba, and still another, 
 with great spreading branches, was the umbrella tree, 
 which Alice thought well named. Over one algaroba 
 tree ran a vine that almost covered the boughs with 
 
 Punchbowl 
 
 masses of crimson flowers, and upon the lawn were beds 
 of lilies and heliotrope. 
 
 From the veranda, at the back of the hotel, could 
 be seen a low mountain with a jagged circular top that 
 looked as if the peak had been torn off. This was 
 Punch'bowl. It had once been a volcano, but the fire 
 had died out ages before, and it was covered, within 
 and without, with thick grass and shrubs. 
 
 There were other tall peaks which Alice learned to 
 
26 
 
 miih 
 
 distinguish as Round Top and Tan'ta-lus. These were 
 also covered with grass to the very top, and mist and 
 clouds floated around them like a thin white veil. 
 There were a great many kinds of people in the hotel, 
 as well as in the streets, — Chinese, Japanese, Hawai- 
 ians, Americans, and a few Europeans who were trav- 
 eling through the 
 Islands. 
 
 For luncheon Alice 
 had some ripe, sweet 
 strawberries, which 
 grow in the Hawaiian 
 Islands all the year 
 round. She also had 
 cocoanuts which were 
 not like any that she 
 had ever eaten be- 
 fore ; they were not 
 quite ripe, and the 
 meat was soft, like 
 jelly, and had to be 
 eaten with a spoon. 
 Each nut contained a quart of clear fluid that looked 
 Uke water, but had a delicious sour flavor, not at all 
 like the white milk that Alice had poured from cocoa- 
 nuts at home. 
 
 Another strange fruit was the guava, with its pink, 
 fleshy meat full of hard seeds. Alice had eaten guava 
 jelly, and she thought it much better than the ripe fruit 
 from which it was made. 
 
 The coffee — Ko'na coffee — also grew in the Islands. 
 
 Taro Plant 
 
27 
 
 It was rich and strong, and could not be bought any- 
 where else, as the people raised only enough for their 
 own use. 
 
 Hundreds of young Kona trees have, however, been 
 set out on the new plantations, and some day Kona 
 coffee will be sent to the United States. 
 
 In- the morning Alice breakfasted on some small, 
 delicious fish called mullets that had been brought from 
 large fish ponds a few 
 miles out of Honolulu. 
 There was also poH^ a 
 porridge of which the 
 Hawaiians are very 
 fond. Many of them 
 eat scarcely any other 
 food. 
 
 Poi is made from 
 the root of a large- 
 leaved plant, the taU'o, 
 which is boiled until it 
 is quite soft, and then 
 kneaded into a sticky 
 paste. In ancient 
 times the poi was 
 pounded in a large 
 wooden tray with a 
 stone pestle and was 
 
 then steamed in an underground oven with heated stones. 
 Hawaiians who eat too much of it grow very fat. 
 
 It is of a pinkish gray color and somewhat sour. 
 When the Hawaiians eat poi they pour it into a cala- 
 
 Calabashes 
 
28 
 
 bash, a deep wooden bowl, which in former days consti- 
 tuted the chief article of furniture in Hawaiian homes. 
 All the family gather around it, sitting on the floor or on 
 the ground. Each person dips his finger into the poi, 
 rolls a portion of it into a little ball on the tip of his 
 
 A Hawaiian Hotel 
 
 finger and quickly tosses it into his mouth. To spill 
 any of the porridge is considered unmannerly. 
 
 The dining room was large and airy, and through 
 the open windows Alice saw the waving boughs of the 
 palms, and heard the chattering of birds. It was like 
 fairyland, and she felt that she could be happy in 
 Honolulu all her life, and that she should never care 
 to go back to a country with frost and snow, where the 
 flowers do not bloom the whole year round. 
 
29 
 
 III. THE DRIVE TO WAIKIKI 
 
 A LICE 
 
 was awakened the 
 next morning by the loud 
 chattering of birds in the mango 
 trees. She arose and peeped 
 out to see them swinging on 
 the boughs and hopping about 
 the lawn. They were not like 
 any birds that she had ever seen 
 before, though they looked 
 a httle like robins. They 
 were larger than robins, but 
 almost of the same color, ex- 
 cept about the neck, where 
 the feathers were a greenish 
 gold. They had long yellow 
 legs, and a yellow rim around 
 the eye, and they moved about 
 very quickly among the trees. 
 Alice's father said they were 
 mynahs, and that they had been 
 brought from India to Hawaii. 
 
 Mynahs are saucy, mischievous birds, and seem to 
 be afraid of nothing. They are very thievish, and steal 
 any bit of lace or wool or ribbon that is left in their way. 
 
 Mynahs 
 
30 
 
 While Alice was in Honolulu she heard a great many 
 stories about the mynahs. One of her little playmates 
 was collecting postage stamps for her album. A my- 
 nah's nest was shaken out of a tree by the wind, and 
 when the little girl ran to pick it up she found two rare 
 stamps neatly pieced into the side of the nest. They 
 made a bright bit of color, and the mynah, no doubt, 
 had stolen them from some veranda or window sill, 
 where the careless owner had left them. 
 
 A gentleman told AHce another interesting story 
 about the mynahs. In an unused building on his land 
 there was a room that had been closed for a long time. 
 One day he unlocked the door and found in the middle 
 of the floor a great heap of rubbish, — small twigs, 
 grass, paper, string, and pieces of cloth. Looking 
 about, he saw a small hole in the ceiling, through which, 
 he at once concluded, the mynahs had carried the rub- 
 bish into the room, thinking, no doubt, that it would 
 never be discovered. 
 
 After breakfast the Earles went for a drive to Wai- 
 ki'ki. This is a suburb, lying along the beach, which 
 they had seen from the deck of the ship. The road is 
 solid and smooth, running for several miles quite close 
 to the sea. A wall of stone has been built to prevent 
 the waves from washing across the road. On one side 
 are high mountains, with the cool green valleys at their 
 base. On the other side lies the sea, deep and blue and 
 very still along the beach. Farther out there are rough 
 waves that come swiftly rolling in, till, striking against a 
 coral reef, they toss their white spray high up into the air. 
 
 These reefs, or sunken ledges of coral, are composed 
 
31 
 
 of the skeletons of thousands of little animals called 
 coral polyps. The coral polyps live only under the 
 water, and die when they come to the surface. The 
 reefs they build up are often several miles broad and 
 sometimes extend for hundreds of miles along the coast. 
 The water between the reef and the shore is called a 
 lagoon, and here, even in storms, it is safe to row or 
 swim. Outside the reef the sea swarms with sharks, 
 big savage fish, which, whenever they can catch them, 
 eat the swimmers who venture out beyond the reef. 
 This does not happen very often, as the Hawaiians are 
 the most wonderful swimmers in the world, and are 
 not much afraid of the sharks, which they attack with 
 great courage. 
 
 Almost all the Hawaiians that Alice met, walking or 
 riding, — even the men who were cleaning the streets, — 
 wore wreaths of flowers. Their horses were poor and 
 wretched, for although there are a great many pastures, 
 the grass is not fattening. 
 
 Alice had never before seen women ride like the 
 Hawaiian women. They wear holokus, but sit astride 
 their horses like men. 
 
 In the old days their riding dresses were of very gay 
 colors, — blue, pink, yellow, green, and crimson ; they 
 were long and flowing, and, as the women galloped 
 through the streets, these gowns streamed out on either 
 side like wings, making, with their wreaths of flowers, 
 a very pretty picture. 
 
 All the people whom Alice passed were good-natured 
 and polite ; they bowed and smiled, waved their hands, 
 and said, " Aloha." 
 
32 
 
 As they passed along, Alice would now and then see 
 horses standing in the ponds with heads bent until the 
 water almost reached their eyes. She wondered at this 
 till she was told that the horses were eating a weed 
 that grows at the bottom of the ponds. She often 
 stopped and laughed to see the saucy mynahs perched 
 
 Women Riding 
 
 on the backs of pigs and cows that went about their 
 way quite unconcerned. 
 
 On the edge of the city there were numbers of Chi- 
 nese shops, with little children standing in the doorway. 
 Alice saw many other Chinese children on their way 
 to school. They looked clean and happy. The little 
 boys and girls were dressed very much alike. They 
 
33 
 
 wore wide trousers, with long, loose jackets of dark blue. 
 Some of them were barefooted and wore around one 
 ankle a band of brass, or jade, a green stone much 
 admired by the Chinese. Some wore little close-fitting 
 caps^ while others were bareheaded, with their black 
 
 Cocoanut Tree 
 
 hair combed very smoothly and braided in a long braid 
 or cue, which hung down the back or was thrown 
 daintily across one arm. Sometimes the cue was length- 
 ened with pink cord braided in with the hair. 
 
 Alice passed several cocoanut groves. For the first 
 time, she saw the cocoanuts growing. They grow 
 
 KROUT'S HAWAII — 3 
 
34 
 
 together, many in a bunch, among the boughs in the top 
 of the tree. The trunks, which lean in many directions, 
 are easy to climb. This, the rats soon discover, and 
 sometimes they make their nests among the cocoanuts, 
 that they may have their food close at hand. It is easy 
 for them to gnaw through the yellowish husk and the 
 shell, and eat the soft meat, and drink the milk, of 
 which the young rats, also, are very fond. 
 
 Passing the gardens of the Chinese, Alice found them 
 neat and well tilled. They were laid out in beds, around 
 each of which was a narrow canal. In the beds vegeta- 
 bles and bananas were growing. Under the shade of 
 the bananas ducks hatched their broods, which swam 
 up and down the little canals. 
 
 The Chinese and Japanese eat a great many ducks. 
 The men who work on the plantations would be disap- 
 pointed if they did not get a dried duck for their Sun- 
 day dinner. They hatch a great many of the eggs 
 by burying them in oat chaff. The young ducks are 
 kept to themselves in little yards inclosed in wire net. 
 When the " duckery " lies upon the bank of a stream 
 the young ducks are kept apart in the same way on 
 the water, for they could not always defend themselves 
 against the stronger ducks. 
 
 Before the Chinese came to Honolulu it was very 
 hard to get fresh vegetables. The Hawaiians are by 
 nature lazy and not used to hard work, and the white 
 men could not endure the heat of the sun. When 
 the Chinese came they bought the wet, swampy land 
 near the city, which was thought worthless. They 
 drained and plowed it, and soon had fine gardens 
 
35 
 
 where before nothing had grown but grass and weeds. 
 They raised melons and corn, tomatoes, peas, and 
 cucumbers, and almost everything that we can buy 
 in our own markets. 
 
 After Mr. Earle had driven some distance, he left 
 the road, and turned in at the entrance of Ka-pi-o-la'ni 
 
 Kapiolani Park 
 
 Park. This park was named for the wife of King 
 Ka-la-kau'a. It was filled with beautiful ferns and 
 palms and flowering plants, and there were canals 
 everywhere, winding in and out among little grassy 
 islands. 
 
 The houses were set back from the road in the midst 
 of lawns and widespreading trees, and many of them 
 
36 
 
 had no chimneys. This was because it was seldom 
 cool enough to need a fire. Fires were kindled only in 
 the kitchens or ''cook-houses," which stood apart, often 
 some distance from the house in which the family lived, 
 just as Alice had seen them in the Southern states, 
 where she often visited her relatives. The grounds 
 about the houses were surrounded by stone walls or 
 
 Diamond Head 
 
 high wooden palings, but the gates always stood open, 
 so that people could walk in and out as they liked. 
 There were very few weeds in the fields or in the gar- 
 dens, and even along the roadside the grass was thick 
 and fine. 
 
 They now drove through a grove of algaroba trees, 
 quite close to the foot of Diamond Head, the tall 
 cliff rising above Waikiki. Alice's father said that 
 the algaroba, like most of the trees they had seen, did 
 not grow upon the Islands when white men first came 
 
37 
 
 there to live, but had been brought from other coun- 
 tries by French missionaries. The fine, feathery leaves 
 make a thick shade, the wood is used for fuel, and 
 the long seed pods make good fodder for the cattle. 
 
 Alice had seen two churches in her drive, one of 
 coral, cut in blocks, and the other of wood. The coral 
 
 A Hawaiian Church 
 
 church was built by the missionaries from blocks of 
 coral brought by their Hawaiian friends as gifts. This 
 was the church attended by the king and queen, who 
 sat in the rear, in seats much higher than the other 
 pews, to show that they were of higher rank. 
 
 The little wooden church was old and weatherbeaten. 
 
38 
 
 In the churchyard surrounding it were many graves, 
 among which sat several Hawaiian women. After the 
 death of friends and relatives, it was their custom to 
 spend many days at a time in the churchyard, and 
 there they sewed and wove fans and mats, and even 
 cooked and ate their food. Before they were taught 
 better by the missionaries, they used to bury their 
 dead near the door or under the floor of their huts. 
 Mothers would often put their children to death as 
 soon as they were born, and adopt the children of 
 their friends and neighbors. Alice was glad to know 
 that such cruel things were now no longer done. 
 
 3>»iO«~ 
 
 IV. GRASS HOUSES 
 
 MR. and Mrs. Earle found the people of Honolulu 
 very kind and hospitable. To some of them they 
 had brought letters of introduction from friends at 
 home, and these people came at once to call on them, 
 or to invite them to dine and to drive. 
 
 The week after they arrived they were all invited to 
 Wai-me'a, a pretty place ten or twelve miles from the 
 city, on Pearl Harbor. This was a little inlet of the 
 sea which King Kalakaua had given the United States 
 permission to use for a coaling station — a place where 
 large supplies of coal are brought and stored for the 
 use of ships that pass there on their way back and 
 forth across the sea. Such stations are necessary be- 
 cause the furnaces by which the boilers are heated 
 
39 
 
 consume several thousand bushels of coal every day, 
 and most ships could not carry enough to last during a 
 voyage of three or four weeks. 
 
 It was a beautiful morning, and they drove to the 
 little station of the only railway on the island of Oahu, 
 which runs from Honolulu to the principal towns of 
 
 A Hawaiian Avenue 
 
 Oahu, and to the large sugar plantations on the island. 
 This is a great convenience to people living on the plan- 
 tations. One car was filled with Hawaiian men and 
 women. 
 
 From the station they walked to the house of their 
 friend, Mr. Dan vers, whom they were to visit. Alice 
 had never before seen a house like this. It was 
 
40 
 
 called a bungalow. The roof sloped from the center, 
 broadening toward the eaves. It was one story high, 
 and there were wide verandas all round it, furnished 
 with hammocks and with wicker tables and chairs. 
 While they rested, three or four young Hawaiian girls 
 
 Oahu Railway 
 
 played very prettily upon a little instrument something 
 like a mandolin, and sung some wild and mournful 
 Hawaiian songs. After luncheon they walked about 
 the grounds under the shade of the algaroba trees. 
 
 Mr. Danvers wished them to see his grass houses 
 which had been made by a Hawaiian, nearly eighty 
 
41 
 
 years of age. These huts were Hke those in which the 
 people had Hved before they learned to build houses of 
 wood and brick, and none of the younger Hawaiians 
 knew how tp make them. Either they had never been 
 taught, or they had forgotten. The grass houses were 
 oblong, with steep, sloping roofs, the grass being fas- 
 
 Native Grass House 
 
 tened to a framework of light poles. The frame was tied 
 together with strings made of the fiber of plants, for the 
 Hawaiians formerly had no nails. The roof was thatched 
 with securely fastened layers of grass which the rain 
 could not penetrate. The covering of the ends and 
 sides was interwoven and braided like a mat ; but it was 
 many inches in thickness. This made the grass house 
 
42 
 
 cool when the weather was warm, and warm when the 
 days were rainy and chilly. There were no windows, 
 and but one door, so low that Mr. Earle could not enter 
 the house without stooping. 
 
 Mr. Danvers had furnished one of the grass houses 
 in imitation of those formerly occupied by Hawaiian 
 families of high rank. The hut consisted of a single 
 room, the floor of which was of earth beaten smooth 
 and hard, and covered with fine white mats of woven 
 grass. At one end a low platform, several yards in 
 width, extended across the hut, and here the family and 
 their visitors slept. 
 
 The bed was of rushes spread with mats, and the 
 round hard bolster was also covered with matting, which 
 seemed to Alice rather uncomfortable. The bedclothes 
 were not of cotton or woolen material, but of a kind of 
 paper, called to! pa, very much like the paper used in 
 paper napkins. Some of this tapa was soft and thin 
 and silky, while the rest was thicker and coarser. 
 
 Mr. Danvers explained that the tapa is made from 
 the inner bark of the paper mulberry tree, which is 
 beaten in water with heavy mallets, until it is crushed 
 into a soft mass. It is then fashioned into strips of 
 the thickness required, and the strips are overlapped at 
 the edges and beaten together so neatly and smoothly 
 that the seam can hardly be noticed. The clothing of 
 the Hawaiians in the old times was also made of tapa. 
 The tapa, at first a grayish white, is colored with dyes 
 made of plants. and minerals, purple, pink, green, and 
 brown, and decorated in pretty patterns of straight or 
 waving lines. 
 
43 
 
 The furniture of the house consisted of a few stools 
 and calabashes, the wooden bowls for holding food and 
 water. The calabashes were made of a fine, hard- 
 grained wood either of ko^ a or of ko^u^ which was bril- 
 liantly polished. These calabashes had been shaped 
 with stone tools, for the Hawaiians had no tools of iron 
 or steel, until after the white men came to the Islands. 
 
 The Hawaiian women made the tapa, and wove the 
 mats for the floors and beds, besides cooking the food. 
 
 The candle was certainly the oddest that AHce had 
 ever seen ; the kernels of a small nut had been strung 
 on a splinter of bamboo, and the nut at the end of the 
 string was lighted and burned several minutes ; then 
 the second caught fire and so on until all were burned. 
 The nuts were gathered from the ku-hiH^ or candle nut 
 tree which grows everywhere on the mountain sides, 
 and which can easily be recognized by its pale gray- 
 green leaves among the darker foliage. 
 
 Some of the richer Hawaiians used lamps of stone, in 
 which fish oil was burned. The Hawaiians used to fear 
 darkness, being much afraid of ghosts and evil spirits. 
 It was long before the missionaries could convince them 
 that such spirits do not exist, and that the nighttime is 
 just as safe as the day. 
 
44 
 
 V. HAWAIIAN CUSTOMS 
 
 WHEN the party returned to the comfortable ve- 
 randa of the bungalow, Mr. Danvers, who had 
 been born and bred among the natives, told them a 
 great many interesting tales about the old Hawaiians. 
 
 Fishing with a Spear 
 
 Alice learned that besides poi and fruit they also ate 
 a great deal of fish, and that the fishermen were very 
 clever in the use of spears and nets, with which the fish 
 were caught. When the Islands became so crowded 
 with people that food grew scarce, the chiefs gave to 
 
45 
 
 each family a small plat of ground in which they 
 planted the taro for their poi. These little gardens 
 were surrounded by low stone walls. 
 
 When the supply of fish began to fail, the great fish 
 ponds were dug, filled with water, and stocked with 
 mullet. These ponds lay in a narrow valley between 
 
 Fishing with a Net 
 
 two low mountain peaks, which could be seen from Mr. 
 Danvers's veranda. 
 
 In fishing at sea, the nets were let down to a very 
 great depth, and thousands of fish were taken at once, 
 so that after a while they became very scarce. 
 
 All the best food was kept for the chiefs ; to men of 
 lower rank it was forbidden by law. Any breaking of 
 this law was punished by death. 
 
46 
 
 A very troublesome custom invented by the priests 
 
 and chiefs was the tabu. This was a rule forbidding 
 
 the people to do certain things, to eat certain kinds of 
 
 food, to wash at certain seasons, forbidding them at 
 
 times even to attend the sick or 
 
 bury the dead. All food set apart 
 
 for the priests and chiefs was said 
 
 to be tabu. A little girl once 
 
 had her eyes put out for eating 
 
 a banana, a fruit reserved for men 
 
 of high rank. She would have 
 
 been put to death, had she not 
 
 been the daughter of a chief. 
 
 Whenever the priests performed 
 solemn religious ceremonies, a gen- 
 eral tabu was declared. Then no 
 one could walk about, or speak, or 
 make a sound ; the fowls and dogs 
 and pigs were shut up in the dark, 
 that they might think it was night, 
 and keep quiet. This silence lasted 
 from sunrise until sunset, and if 
 even a dog barked, or a hen cackled, 
 the tabu was violated, and the whole 
 ceremony had to be performed over. 
 The people found the tabu so un- 
 comfortable that they kept very still, in order to get 
 through with it as soon as possible. 
 
 The idols, which the priests carried in battle, and in 
 times of peace kept in little temples or sacred houses, 
 were very hideous. 
 
 Old Idol 
 
47 
 
 The people worshiped four chief gods. One they 
 thought dwelt in the savage shark, another in the vol- 
 cano, a third in the earth, and a fourth in the air. 
 
 Men and women never ate at the same table. Parents 
 loved their sons far better than their daughters. When 
 a boy was five years old, if he was of high rank, he 
 was allowed to eat pork and bananas, and thereafter he 
 never again sat at table with his mother or sisters. 
 
 The Hawaiians made little sledges with curved, 
 polished runners and coasted down the grassy hill- 
 sides. They also played at bowls and threw spears 
 at a target ; and the chiefs were fond of shooting mice 
 with bows and arrows, — a sport in which no one else 
 could engage. They ran races and wrestled ; and in 
 their boxing matches struck such heavy blows that 
 men were frequently killed. 
 
 The most popular of all their pastimes was swim- 
 ming. They used a very long, narrow board, with 
 which men, women, and even children swam out to 
 sea until they met a huge wave, when they threw 
 themselves upon the swimming board and were borne 
 swiftly to the shore. They were so skillful in this 
 dangerous amusement that they were rarely hurt or 
 •drowned. They were also very fearless in leaping over 
 high waterfalls, into the deep pools below. Indeed, 
 they spent so much time in the streams and the sea, 
 that they were almost as much at home in the water 
 as on the land. 
 
 Few of the Hawaiians of to-day would venture to 
 leap over even a small waterfall, and they rarely use 
 their swimming boards. 
 
48 
 
 Whenever the Hawaiians were sick, they believed 
 either that they had been bewitched, or else, by fail- 
 ure to visit the sacred houses and offer gifts to the 
 priests, had offended some evil spirit. 
 
 Native doctors, or sorcerers, who had all sorts of 
 dreadful remedies, were called in to give medicine to 
 the sick, or work charms or spells that 
 
 frighten away the evil 
 
 Sometimes their 
 
 were placed in 
 
 baths, which 
 
 made by 
 
 pouring water over heated stones. The old Hawaiians 
 believed that their enemies could cause sickness or 
 death, if they could obtain a bit of hair or finger nail of 
 the man or woman whom they wished to harm, and they 
 were careful to destroy such things. They were almost 
 as much afraid of the doctors as of the priests and 
 idols, and took pains not to offend them, and to keep 
 them in good humor by giving them presents. To this 
 
49 
 
 day there are a good many Hawaiians who will not call 
 in a regular physician when they are ill, but secretly 
 consult the native doctors, many of whom still thrive 
 in the Islands. 
 
 j><«< 
 
 VL THE PALI 
 
 THE Hawaiian Islands are all very much alike. 
 Across each there extends a high ridge, upon one 
 side of which the island is bare and rocky, and on the 
 other clothed with forests and rich valleys, through 
 which countless brooks flow to the sea. The northeast 
 trade winds blowing across the ocean bring moisture 
 to the land in clouds. It turns into rain when it 
 reaches the cool land, just as the moisture collects in 
 drops upon the outside of a pitcher of ice water on a 
 warm summer day. The clouds cannot cross the moun- 
 tains, therefore, but condense into rain which falls upon 
 one side of the ridge only, leaving the other side dry 
 and parched. 
 
 The barren tracts in the Hawaiian Islands are not 
 sandy, but are covered with lava. Lava is of a dull, 
 gray color, and may be rough and jagged or smooth 
 and glassy. There is now very little barren land on 
 the island of Oahu, where Honolulu is located. But, 
 long ago, there were few plants or trees, except the 
 cocoanut near the sea, and the candle nut, the koa, and 
 the kou, which grew on the high lands. Nearly all the 
 useful plants, except the sugar cane, were brought to 
 
 KROUT'S HAWAII — 4 
 
50 
 
 the Islands by white men. There are people still living 
 who can remember a time when the beautiful parks and 
 gardens around Honolulu were but dry, dusty plains. 
 
 Oahu has more fertile land than the other islands, 
 because there is an opening in the mountain ridge, 
 through which the moisture from the sea may spread 
 over the whole island. This cleft is called the Pa'li, 
 a Hawaiian word which means '* a rocky precipice." 
 The Pali is, in reality, a "pass," or opening, in the 
 mountain, through which a road has been made, lead- 
 ing down to the valleys on the other side. 
 
 There are parts of Oahu which have more rain than 
 others; for only a little of the moisture of the sea is 
 blown through the Pali by the trade winds, so that 
 some of the plantations are watered by wells sunk deep 
 in the rock. This is called irrigation, and the sugar 
 cane grows almost as well on this land as where a 
 great deal of rain falls. The road to the Pali is one 
 of the most beautiful in the world. No one who visits 
 Honolulu ought to go away without being taken for a 
 drive to the top of the precipice. The road starts from 
 Nu-u-a'nu Avenue, a broad, smooth street, with tropical 
 trees, shady gardens, and fine residences on either side. 
 It is always kept very clean, and in good repair, and is 
 never strewn with straw or bits of paper. 
 
 The day that Mr. Earle selected for the excursion 
 which~ he planned to the Pali was clear and bright. 
 The mynahs were chattering in the hibiscus hedges. 
 Alice had seen the hibiscus at home, in greenhouses; 
 it is a shrub bearing large scarlet flowers which are 
 easily killed by the frost. Here she saw long hedges 
 
51 
 
 which were covered with the brilliant flowers. The 
 Hawaiians use them for wreaths, which they sometimes 
 wear instead of hats or bonnets. The doves were 
 mournfully cooing in the palm trees, — perhaps bewail- 
 ing their sad fate, for the mynahs often fight them, 
 break up their nests, and kill their young. 
 
 After they left the smooth, shady avenue, they came 
 out into the open valley, from whose borders rose the 
 steep mountains. Here were the burying grounds in 
 which stood the royal tomb, where many of the Hawai- 
 ian kings were buried. 
 
 The mountain sides were thickly covered with the 
 guava and the lantana, a shrub which is raised in green- 
 houses in cold climates, but which has spread every- 
 where in Oahu, and has given the planters a great deal 
 of trouble. It grows in dense thickets which are hard 
 to root out. 
 
 As they began to ascend toward the Pali, Mr. Earle 
 stopped and turned the carriage a little, that they might 
 look back over the road by which they had come. The 
 valley was like velvet, covered with soft, green grass. 
 Here and there were the little garden plots that had 
 belonged to the early Hawaiians ; around them the low 
 stone walls were crumbling into ruin. 
 
 Beyond the valley, the roofs and spires of the city 
 could be seen above the tops of the mango and bread- 
 fruit trees, with the tall, slender palms, like plumes, 
 waving high above them all. 
 
 Beyond this was the bay, with all the ships lying 
 along the dock, or at anchor, farther out ; — the big 
 white war ships, and the sailing vessels, some of which 
 
52 
 
 had just finished their long voyage, while others were 
 getting ready to sail with their cargo of sugar, cocoa- 
 nuts, and pineapples. 
 
 The lagoon was very still and blue, and along the 
 hidden reef, which did not show above the water, a 
 
 curling edge of foam 
 shone white as snow. 
 The ocean, still farther 
 off, lay broad and blue, 
 and seemed to melt into 
 the sky. The gray, 
 jagged, mountain peaks 
 rose above them, the 
 clouds moving across 
 them very slowly. 
 
 A pack train — a drove 
 of horses driven by little 
 Japanese laborers and 
 loaded with supplies of 
 food — passed them on 
 its way to the planta- 
 tions on the other side 
 of the Pali. The road 
 was so steep that almost 
 everything was taken across the Pali in this way, or 
 sent around by the sea in steamers. 
 
 When they reached the top of the Pali a thick mist 
 suddenly shut them in. Mr. Earle told Alice that this 
 was a cloud, and that if she were to walk through any of 
 the heavy, gray clouds in the sky, she would find her- 
 self in just such a mist as this. 
 
 Guava. 
 
53 
 
 In a little while the breeze grew stronger, and the mist 
 passed away, down the mountain side. But the wind 
 blew with terrible force through the narrow Pali. Alice 
 had to hold her hat to keep it from blowing away ; she 
 could scarcely breathe. They could not hear each other 
 
 Pali Pass 
 
 speak, and the horses bent their heads as they strug- 
 gled against the wind. 
 
 Mr. Earle shouted to one of the Japanese drivers of the 
 pack train, and asked whether the road was clear on the 
 other side of the Pah. The man shook his head and said 
 that it would not be safe to drive over the road in such 
 a gale. He then held the horses while the party walked 
 
54 
 
 to the top and looked down upon the sugar plantations 
 that spread out for miles below the Pali and resembled 
 cornfields, except that the cane was a brighter green. 
 They could see the houses of the planters, and the grass 
 huts of the Japanese and Hawaiians around the sugar 
 mills. 
 
 A wall was built along the edge of the precipice, at 
 the very top, to prevent people from being blown over 
 it in gales, and Alice felt a little dizzy as she looked 
 down into the chasm. There were many days, Mr. 
 Earle said, when the trade winds were blowing, on which 
 it was not safe to visit the Pali ; and this Alice could 
 well believe. 
 
 Mr. Earle told Alice that a fierce battle had been 
 fought in the Nuuanu valley by Ka-me-ha-me'ha the 
 Great, against the chief who lived upon the island of 
 Oahu. Kamehameha won the battle, and the people* 
 who fought against him were driven up the mountain 
 side, through the Pali, where they leaped over the edge 
 of the wall and were dashed to pieces. 
 
 This battle, which took place in 1795, was the last of 
 several which made Kamehameha master of all save 
 two of the Hawaiian Islands and it led finally to the 
 union of all the islands under one government — the 
 beginning of a new era for the country. 
 
55 
 
 VII. THE VISIT TO HILO 
 
 AFTER they had spent some time in Honolulu, Mr. 
 and Mrs. Earle decided to go to Hi'lo, on the is- 
 land of Hawaii. Next to Honolulu, Hilo is the largest 
 town in the Hawaiian Islands. The great volcano, Ki-lau- 
 e'a, is only thirty miles from Hilo ; more than two hun- 
 dred and fifty miles distant from Honolulu. 
 
 They were to sail in the Ki-naiL\ a little steamer 
 named after one of the great Hawaiian queens. The 
 deck was crowded with natives who had been to see 
 their friends in Honolulu, or were going to visit on the 
 other islands. They sailed in the afternoon, and when 
 they had lost sight of Oahu they could see the dark, 
 steep shores of Molokai, where the poor lepers live. 
 Molokai was still a long distance away, but much 
 nearer than when they saw it from the deck of the 
 Mariposa. 
 
 The channels between the islands were very broad, 
 and the water was like the current of a wide, swift river. 
 The little steamer rolled and tossed, so that very few of 
 the passengers could stay on deck. 
 
 In the morning the engines stopped. Alice went with 
 her father out of the cabin to the forward part of the 
 deck, and saw that the steamer was quite close to the land. 
 There were a few houses, a large store, and a little 
 railway station. Having concluded to go ashore, they 
 went down the rope ladder over the side of the vessel, 
 into a big boat in which half a dozen Hawaiians were 
 already seated. Mr. Earle said that the little village 
 was Ma-hu-ko'na, on the island of Hawaii. It was on 
 
56 
 
 the opposite side from Hilo, which was still a long 
 
 distance away, 
 
 All that part of the island was covered with gray lava, 
 
 but here and there a coarse sort of grass and a few lit- 
 tle ferns had begun 
 to take root. Al- 
 garoba trees were 
 planted around the 
 houses, and made a 
 pretty green spot on 
 the gray and barren 
 mountain side. The 
 algaroba is the only 
 tree, except the palm, 
 that will grow in the 
 lava, which its fine 
 roots can pierce and 
 break. Mr. Earle said 
 that some day, per- 
 haps, the algaroba 
 may spring up every- 
 where, and there will 
 then be soil upon 
 which grass and flow- 
 ers can also grow. 
 
 Algaroba Tree 
 
 The little railway ran around the coast to the planta- 
 tions which were on the other side of the ridge. The cars 
 were loaded with bags of sugar, which were to be piled 
 into boats and drawn out to the ship by cables. There 
 were so many bags that it took nearly all the morning 
 to take them from the warehouse to the steamer. 
 
57 
 
 The little cars were very plain and uncomforta- 
 ble, Alice thought, and not at all like those in which 
 she traveled in the United States. The seats were 
 of wood, and there was no carpet in the aisles. 
 But travelers could do very well without that in 
 a warm country like Hawaii. The people who once 
 had to * go back and forth on horseback, over the 
 lava, were glad enough to have any sort of a rail- 
 way by which they could come and go quickly, and 
 without fatigue. Some of the Hawaiians traveled by 
 the little train, and others rode up the mountain side 
 on horseback. 
 
 Alice could hardly see the road across the lava. The 
 women on horseback wore holokus and broad-brimmed 
 straw hats, and both men and women had wreaths on 
 their hats and around their necks. 
 
 Mr. Earle pointed out to Alice the tall telephone 
 poles by the roadside. He said they knew by this 
 time in Hilo that the Kinau had reached Mahukona, 
 as well as how many passengers there were on board. 
 All the towns and plantations were connected by tele- 
 phone lines. People used the telephone a great deal, 
 and talked with one another many miles apart. Alice 
 was surprised at this, for she had supposed the telephone 
 was unknown in a country so far away as the Hawaiian 
 Islands. 
 
 When the whistle blew, to tell them to come 
 on board, they went down to the beach and were 
 taken back to the Kinaii., in one of the big boats. 
 The water again became very rough, and when they 
 reached Hilo, the next morning, it was raining hard. 
 
58 
 
 Alice had never seen it rain so hard anywhere. The 
 water fell almost in sheets. There was no dock where 
 the passengers could be landed, so the Kinau an- 
 chored in the deep water, out in the bay, or roadstead. 
 Alice was told that it rained more in Hilo than any- 
 where else on the globe, except one little valley among 
 the mountains in India. 
 
 A Traveler's Palm and Rose Garden 
 
 Everything was dripping wet, the trees, the gardens, 
 and the great, broad fields of sugar cane. Alice had 
 never seen anything so beautifully green as these cane 
 fields, which stretched for miles beyond Hilo, to the 
 edge of the forest. 
 
 At the landing AHce had to be lifted up out of the 
 boat into the shed which served as a shelter, and pres- 
 ently her father and mother joined her. It was rather 
 
59 
 
 hard for them to climb to the platform, but they laughed 
 and said that they were glad they were safe on shore. 
 They were driven to a little hotel, an old-fashioned 
 frame house, with gardens in the rear containing many 
 palms and rnango trees. Here they were to stay while 
 they were in Hilo. 
 
 In the afternoon the sun came out, and they went for 
 a walk. Alice thought Hilo even lovelier than Hono- 
 
 Tortoises 
 
 lulu. She had never seen so many palm trees, nor so 
 many beautiful flowers. In one garden grew nothing 
 but roses, white and red and pink. A narrow stream 
 ran round the garden, and in the center, among the 
 roses, stood a traveler's palm. The leaf stalks of this 
 tree collect and hold the water from the rains, and 
 travelers, passing through the forests, pierce the stalks 
 and obtain water enough to quench their thirst. For 
 this reason it is called the traveler's palm. The little 
 
66 
 
 streams seemed to flow everywhere ; across the lawns, 
 and through the steep, rocky streets. 
 
 The party returned through a grassy paddock behind 
 the house. In the paddock was the largest tortoise Alice 
 had ever seen. Its shell was four or five feet in length 
 and almost as broad. She was not in the least afraid 
 of it, and her father lifted her on its back. It did not 
 appear to feel her weight, and walked slowly along. 
 Alice had never before taken so strange a ride as that. 
 The tortoise had lived in the paddock for several years, 
 and seemed quite contented. Mr. Earle said that it 
 had been brought from the Ga-lap^a-gos Islands, where 
 the tortoise grows to a very great size. 
 
 Alice went to bed very early, for the next day they 
 were all to take the long drive to the volcano. 
 
 ^>^c 
 
 VIII. THE ROAD TO THE VOLCANO 
 
 ALICE could hardly believe that she had been asleep 
 when her mother called her the next morning, and 
 told her that the stage would be at the door in half an 
 hour. She was very tired after the rough voyage from 
 Honolulu and would have liked to rest. But she just 
 had time to dress and eat her breakfast when the stage 
 was ready to start off. 
 
 It was a shabby old stage, with two horses in rusty 
 harness. But the Scotch driver was a good-natured 
 man, who invited Alice to sit with him in the front seat. 
 
6i 
 
 Everybody along the road knew this driver and liked 
 him, because he was kind and obliging and ready to do 
 errands for anybody. ^ 
 
 Besides the mail sacks, which he drew forward from 
 under the seat, so that Alice might rest her feet upon 
 them, he carried a variety of things which he had bought 
 in Hilo for the people who lived on the plantations he was 
 going to pass. There were books and parcels, and a 
 neatly covered basket of meat. 
 
 As they drove out of Hilo they saw a great many 
 Chinese shops like those in Honolulu. There were, the 
 same odd little Chinese children in their blue coats 
 and green trousers. These were also barefooted, and 
 had pink cords braided in with their cues. They were 
 very silent, and watched the stage gravely. Their skin 
 was dark, and their black eyes were small and 
 slanting. 
 
 The Japanese were at work in the sugar plantations. 
 They moved across the fields in long lines. Each 
 man had a sharp, short knife. He cut the cane with 
 one stroke, which felled the stalk, and passed on 
 from row to row. When the cane was cut it was 
 stripped of the long leaves and collected in bundles. 
 Then it was ready to send to the mill to be ground. 
 The sun was hot, and the men were covered with dust. 
 But they worked very fast and appeared contented and 
 cheerful. 
 
 A little farther on, an animal, larger than a cat, ran 
 across the road and hid in a stone wall. Its fur was 
 thick, and it had a big bushy tail. The driver told Alice 
 that it was a mongoose. Mongooses were brought 
 
62 
 
 from the West Indies to Hawaii to kill the rats that did 
 much damage in the cane fields. Had the rats eaten just 
 a little of the cane, the planters would not have cared ; 
 but they were very greedy, and they gnawed and wasted 
 a great many stalks before they found one exactly to 
 their taste. The rats are afraid of the mongoose and 
 run off and hide when they see or scent one. They 
 
 Japanese in the Cane Fields 
 
 know that in a fight they have very little chance to get 
 away. But the mongoose itself has done much mischief ; 
 and the planters sometimes wish that it had never been 
 brought to the Islands. Rats will fight fiercely, espe- 
 cially when they find that they cannot escape, and the 
 mongoose prefers to attack something that cannot so 
 well defend itself. It is fond of eggs, and robs the 
 nests, and comes into the poultry yard after young 
 ducks and chickens, which it carries off. In this habit 
 it is very much like the weasel. The mongoose also 
 
63 
 
 kills and eats young pheasants, of which there are a 
 great many in the Islands. 
 
 At one place, a party of men were building a road. 
 They wore queer clothes of cotton cloth. One sleeve 
 of the jacket and one trouser's leg was blue, and the 
 other brown. The men were prisoners, who had been 
 arrested for gambling and stealing, and were forced, in 
 
 Courthouse at Hilo 
 
 punishment, to work upon the roads. They were nearly 
 all Chinese, or Japanese. There were no white men 
 among them, and only a few Hawaiians. At night they 
 were locked up in a small house, which could be taken 
 to pieces and moved, so that they carried it with them 
 as the road was finished. 
 
 ^ The man in charge of the prisoners did not watch 
 them very closely, and was quite kind to them. He 
 said that they did not often try to run away, but were 
 
64 
 
 good-tempered and easy to control. He told Mr. Earle 
 an interesting story about a young Japanese who lived 
 at Hilo. He was a cook who was arrested and put 
 into jail in Hilo for fighting. The jailor liked him 
 and felt that he had not intended to do wrong, so he 
 unlocked the jail door every morning and let him out 
 to go to the house where he worked. In the evening, 
 when he had cooked his master's dinner and washed 
 the dishes, he walked back to the jail, and the jailor 
 locked him up again. He did this until the Japanese 
 had been in jail as long as it was necessary for him to 
 stay. 
 
 Usually, the Chinese and Japanese are industrious 
 and well-behaved. Once in a while there are bad men 
 among them, but there are rarely many men in the 
 Hawaiian prisons. 
 
 The road was smooth and hard. It ran through the 
 forests, and there was deep shade a great part of the 
 way. Alice did not realize that they were going uphill 
 all the time, although it grew cooler as they approached 
 the volcano. 
 
 In the first forest through which the road had been 
 made, there were only such plants and trees as grow in 
 hot countries. Breadfruit and other useful trees had 
 been planted along the roadsides, as cherry trees are 
 planted along the roads in Germany. 
 
 In the forests there were tall, branching tree ferns, 
 palms, and bananas. A strange vine, called the i-a-i'-a^ 
 wound round the trunks in thick coils like ropes. The 
 end, which swayed to and fro, was like the yucca which 
 Alice had seen growing in gardens at home. In the 
 
65 
 
 center of the stiff, gray leaves was a long scarlet cone, 
 like a very large pine cone ; this was the flower of the 
 iaia. 
 
 Here and there they saw deep holes, that were very 
 broad at the top, narrowing at the bottom, until there 
 
 Breadfruit 
 
 was hardly room for a man to stand. These were 
 the craters of little volcanoes. Ferns and vines grew 
 over the walls in the shade and dampness. Alice 
 thought that they were like gardens, which grew there 
 without having to be watered and taken care of. 
 
 At noon they reached the Halfway House, a small 
 
 KROUT'S HAWAII — 5 
 
66 
 
 hotel in the forest, where they were glad to rest for an 
 hour. The Halfway House was built upon a steep 
 hill. The road wound up to the door, but there was a 
 shorter path by a flight of steps made of logs. For the 
 first time they heard a great many birds. The lower 
 forest had been very silent. 
 
 They sat on the veranda and ate their luncheon, and 
 they could see for a long distance up and down the 
 smooth, shady road. When they set out again, after 
 their noon rest, they saw cleared spaces here and there 
 in the forest. These were coffee plantations, and the 
 young plants were growing under such trees as had been 
 left to shade them. Alice thought that it must take a 
 great deal of patience to raise coffee, as the trees do 
 not bear fruit for three or four years. All this time 
 they must be watched and pruned, and kept free from 
 blight and insects. The leaves of the coffee tree are 
 a dark, glossy green. The flowers are pure white and 
 very fragrant, like orange blossoms. 
 
 The driver was kept busy distributing the parcels 
 he had brought for the people who lived in the houses 
 which could be seen through the trees, far back from 
 the road. Sometimes the parcels were given to a Ha- 
 waiian servant who ran down to the road to get them, 
 when she heard the rattle of wheels. At other times 
 they were placed in little boxes, nailed against a tree 
 trunk, where they were safe. Once the driver hung a 
 beefsteak tied up in a green leaf, to a hook which had 
 been driven into a tree, high out of reach, so that it 
 might be safe from dogs. 
 
 They passed many Hawaiian houses made of wood, 
 
67 
 
 which were not clean like the grass huts at Wai- 
 mea; the gardens were very untidy. Both men and 
 women sat on the floor of their verandas, smoking 
 pipes. None of them were at work. Many of the 
 
 Coffee Plantation 
 
 houses were surrounded by fences made of the trunks 
 of tree ferns, cut into pieces two or three feet in length. 
 The cutting had not killed the wood, which had sent out 
 young shoots, so that the fence was almost like a hedge 
 of growing ferns. 
 
 After a time, they reached a wide, sloping plain, 
 whence the ocean could be seen surrounding three sides 
 
68 
 
 of the island. Far off rose the great peaks of Mauna 
 Loa and Mauna Kea, — very beautiful with their snow- 
 covered tops against the deep blue sky. The lower 
 slopes of the two mountains were thick with dark for- 
 ests, in which, the driver said, there were droves of wild 
 cattle. 
 
 The plain was covered with the most wonderful ferns 
 that Alice had ever seen. They were not only many 
 shades of green, but also pink, and red, and purple. 
 
 In a little while they entered another forest. The 
 weather had grown very chilly, almost like an autumn 
 afternoon. The trees were now of a different kind 
 from those seen on the low, hot lands near Hilo. Here 
 they saw the kou and the koa and the kukui, which 
 grow best in the cooler regions. Alice saw also clusters 
 of wild roses growing by the grassy roadside. 
 
 Just as the sun set they saw before them a steep slope 
 covered with trees and shrubs. It was the outer wall 
 of the great volcano of Kilauea. The road entered a 
 cleft through this wooded wall, and soon they reache^i 
 the edge of the crater. Within the wall, which was a 
 circle nine miles around, there was a narrow, grassy 
 ledge, upon which had been built a hotel. Near it there 
 was a fine garden full of beautiful flowers. In front of 
 the hotel was the crater of Kilauea, an enormous pit, 
 into which they could look very easily. It was shut in 
 by high cliffs, so steep that they were almost like walls 
 of stone. A narrow, zigzag path had been made by 
 which travelers went down into the crater. The bed of 
 the crater was hidden in the dusk, but far across it, at 
 one side, was a great lake of fire. They could see the 
 
69 
 
 flames and the smoke. The air was full of gas and 
 sulphur, and they could hear a noise like the sound of 
 water dashing against the beach. It was the boiling 
 lava rising and falling in the fiery lake, which the 
 Hawaiians long ago had named Ha-le-mau-mau', the 
 " house of everlasting Fire." 
 
 The Hawaiians used to think that a very cruel spirit, 
 named Pe'le, lived in Halemaumau, and they were care- 
 ful not to make her angry. They tried to secure her 
 good will by making offerings of black hens and black 
 pigs, of which she was supposed to be very fond. 
 
 Mr. Earle arranged to go down into the crater the 
 next day ; then they all returned to the hotel to rest 
 after the long day's drive. 
 
 aXXc 
 
 IX. IN THE CRATER 
 
 THE next day was very cold, and from her window 
 Alice could see the steam and smoke hanging over 
 the crater. The fires were much dimmer by daylight, 
 though they were still burning fiercely, and she could 
 hear the rise and fall of the lava, which sounded like 
 the surf beating against the reef. She knew it was still 
 very hot in Hilo, and that it was colder at the volcano 
 only because they were four thousand feet higher than 
 they had been when they set out for Kilauea the morn- 
 ing before. Fortunately they had brought plenty of 
 warm clothing. 
 
 At breakfast they were served with some small pink 
 
70 
 
 berries, called o-he'los^ which looked very much like 
 cranberries. 
 
 The ohelo grows on the rocky ledge near the hotel. 
 For a long time the people were afraid to eat ohelos 
 without first offering a few to Pele, the spirit of the 
 lake, who was supposed to be very fond of these 
 berries. 
 
 Mrs. Earle promised that when they came up out of 
 the crater she would tell Alice about Kapiolani, who 
 made the people understand that there was no such 
 spirit as Pele and that any one might gather the ohelos 
 and eat them without harm. 
 
 It rained in the morning, but in the afternoon the 
 guide came with the horses, and they all prepared to 
 ride down into the crater. The bottom, or floor of the 
 crater, was much narrower than the top, and was very 
 irregular in outline. It was completely covered with 
 lava. Some of this lava was smooth as ice, and some 
 was jagged and twisted, like great ropes. It looked 
 very dismal. Everywhere the steam came up through 
 narrow cracks and openings in the lava. 
 
 When they had climbed into the saddles, the guide 
 led the way and they followed. Mr. Earle told Alice 
 to hold the reins firmly, that she might not fall, in case 
 the horse should stumble. A timid girl would not have 
 enjoyed such a ride, but Alice was not afraid, although 
 it was not easy for her to keep her seat in the saddle. 
 As they wound along the narrow path, the earth and 
 stones broke loose and rattled down the side of the cliff. 
 
 Alice was glad when, at last, they reached the bottom. 
 She looked around and thought she had never seen so 
 
gloomy a place. Everything was gray, or streaked with 
 color, where it had been stained by the steam. A 
 narrow track led from the foot of the cliff to the fiery 
 lake. On either side of the path an irregular line had 
 been made of blocks of lava which were placed several 
 feet apart, that the horses might not stray from the 
 
 Crater of Kilauea 
 
 path. This was necessary ; for while the crust was 
 thick in some places, in others it was so thin that it 
 would very easily have broken through with the weight 
 of the horses. 
 
 As the party drew nearer the fiery lake Alice was 
 thankful that the blocks of lava had been placed along 
 the path ; for the steam was so dense that they had 
 to wait until it cleared away, and they could not have 
 kept in the road but for the little wall. 
 
72 
 
 At one place there was a deep chasm over which a 
 bridge had been built. This had opened once, when 
 a party of men were down in the crater. They heard 
 a noise like thunder, and felt the earth tremble beneath 
 their feet. The cliffs shook as if they would fall, 
 and the party hurried along the path, following the 
 chasm until they came to a narrow place at the head 
 of it, over which they could jump. Then they climbed 
 up the zigzag path to the top and were saved. But 
 the guides, who had left them, were badly frightened, 
 and they came running to meet them. They were glad 
 when they found that all had escaped in safety. The 
 shaking of the earth and the trembling of the cliffs had 
 been caused by other fires, like those in the boiling 
 lake, deep down out of sight under the lava crust. 
 This crust was raised and shaken by the steam and 
 heat inside. 
 
 The lava takes many strange forms. As it flows it 
 falls in little cascades, which harden and become like 
 stone. There are hillocks and great hollow bubbles, 
 and blowholes, like chimneys, through which the steam 
 and smoke rise and float away. 
 
 After a while they came to a little hut not far from 
 the fiery lake. Here they left their horses with the 
 guides, and went the rest of the way on foot. Alice 
 could feel the heat of the lava through the thick soles 
 of her boots, which were quite badly scorched. 
 
 The lake, close at hand, looked terrible as they 
 approached it. It was a thousand feet long and nearly 
 as wide, and it had built up all around the margin a 
 rim of rough lava. A great deal of the surface of 
 
73 
 
 the lake was covered with a gray scum. The scum 
 wrinkled and cracked in every direction, and out of 
 the seams little jets of flame burst forth. They hissed 
 and burned brightly, just as Alice had seen the flames 
 break from a piece of burning coal. Sometimes the 
 smoke burst out, before the flame appeared. 
 
 Lava Overflow 
 
 There were hundreds of these little hissing fires. 
 But the most awful of all were two great fountains 
 of fire which rose and fell without ceasing. They 
 leaped high into the air, and fell back into the lake 
 with a roar like that of the sea. Even near at hand 
 one could not hear another speak. 
 ^ The boiling lava in the lake, which was white hot 
 everywhere beneath the scum, did not flow over the 
 lava rim, so they could walk quite close to it. The 
 
74 
 
 heat burned their faces, and the gas would have suf- 
 focated them, had they not covered their mouths with 
 their handkerchiefs. The guides who had come with 
 them to the lake were not afraid. They dipped pieces 
 of money in the hot lava. When it grew cool it 
 hardened, and they sold it to travelers. 
 
 Mr. Earle picked up something that looked like a 
 bundle of fine threads of glass, such as Alice had seen 
 
 Lava Overflow and Fall 
 
 at the glass blower's. The gray scum was very much 
 like melted glass, and bits of it were caught up by 
 the wind and blown away. As it was borne along it 
 lengthened out into long threads or filaments. It was 
 called " Pele's hair," and travelers were always glad to 
 find it. 
 
 Mr. Earle told Alice that where it overflows the lake, 
 the lava moves very slowly, and the outside crust soon 
 grows cool. Under the surface the lava keeps hot, 
 
75 
 
 sometimes for a whole year. The fire in the lake often 
 goes out entirely. It is thought that the boiling lava 
 then escapes through a crack or fissure in the bed of 
 the lake, into channels or caverns far down under the 
 ground. Nothing is left then, but a dark, deep hole. 
 After a long time, sometimes weeks or months, smoke 
 may rise from the empty bed. Then the fire appears, 
 and the lava begins to boil up and up, until the lake is 
 once more quite full to the top. It may burn for weeks 
 and months, and then disappear. It has done this for 
 many ages. 
 
 Once the red-hot lava made a passage for itself 
 under the wall of the crater, and came to the surface 
 of the ground outside. It then began to flow down the 
 sloping land to the sea. It was like a great, red-hot 
 river of melted iron, and by its fight people could read 
 a long distance away. As it flowed it burned every- 
 thing in its path. 
 
 When evening came on, the guide said that they 
 must return to the hut, for it was not safe to stay in 
 the crater after nightfall. 
 
 As they rode back across the lava the fires were still 
 seen flaming, and the smoke and steam were blown 
 across their path. The stars were shining brightly in 
 the heavens, and the new moon hung above the crater, 
 making altogether a grand and impressive scene. 
 
76 
 
 X. THE STORY OF KAPIOLANI 
 
 IN the morning, Alice and her mother sat on the 
 veranda of the hotel, overlooking the crater. They 
 could see the lava boiling over the rim of the lake 
 where they had stood the day before. 
 
 Alice was looking thoughtfully at a piece of Pele's 
 hair which she held in her hand, and that reminded her 
 to ask her mother to tell her the story of Pele and 
 Kapiolani. This is the story as Mrs. Earle told it : 
 
 Kapiolani, a Hawaiian chief, was a noble-hearted 
 woman. Before the missionaries came from our coun- 
 try and from England to teach the people of Hawaii, 
 the chiefs were often ignorant and cruel. They could 
 put to death any one they chose, and they used their 
 power most unmercifully, until the missionaries, for 
 whom they had the greatest respect, taught them how 
 wicked it was to treat their subjects with such cruelty. 
 
 Many of the Hawaiians had lost faith in their idols 
 and their gods, the spirits supposed to live in the sea 
 and earth and air, and, for a while, they had no religion. 
 It was for this reason easy to persuade them to become 
 Christians. But there were others who still feared the 
 old gods, and were afraid of angering them. The gods 
 they feared most were the shark god, and Pele, who, 
 they thought, lived in the crater. 
 
 It was hard to convince them that there was no such 
 spirit as Pele, for they thought if any one disobeyed 
 her, she would strike him dead. The missionaries had 
 tried in vain to show the Hawaiians that this idea was 
 
77 
 
 false, but the people were still in deadly fear of this 
 spirit. 
 
 At last the chief, Kapiolani, who had become a Chris- 
 tian, said that she would go to Kilauea and prove that 
 the story was false. She lived a long distance from 
 the volcano, but she got everything ready, bid her 
 friends good-by, and set forth on the journey. The 
 road was then but a narrow track through the tangled 
 woods, over the rough lava. 
 
 It was a journey of more than one hundred and fifty 
 miles, and Kapiolani and the people who accompanied 
 her walked nearly all the way. There was no comfort- 
 able Halfway House where they could rest. They 
 had to bring their food and beds with them, and they 
 were many days on the way. 
 
 Kapiolani's companions were very sad. They knew 
 that they could not persuade her to give up the visit to 
 the crater, and they feared that they would never 
 return to their homes. But Kapiolani herself was not 
 in the least anxious. She laughed away the fears of 
 her companions and cheered them as they approached 
 the volcano. 
 
 The common people did not often go very close to 
 Kilauea, but the priests and priestesses had their huts 
 at the top of the cliff. They pretended to talk to Pele, 
 and would tell the people what she said to them. In 
 this way they made the foolish Hawaiians obey them 
 and bring them presents of food and clothing. 
 
 One of these priests was a tall, fierce man who was 
 much feared, and his sister who lived with him at the 
 volcano was powerful and cruel. But they became 
 
78 
 
 Christians and then departed from Kilauea to live peace- 
 fully among the missionaries. 
 
 The sun had gone down when Kapiolani reached 
 the volcano, and she could see the red glow of the fire 
 in the sky. A priestess came to meet her and told her 
 to go back, but she would not listen. The priestess 
 then told her that she and all the people with her 
 would perish if she came any nearer. But even this 
 did not frighten Kapiolani, and as she was a great chief, 
 the priests could not forbid her to do as she pleased. 
 
 She gathered some of the ohelo berries from the 
 ground, but, instead of following the custom of throw- 
 ing a few into the crater and crying, " Pele, here 
 are your ohelos, I offer you some, some I also eat," 
 Kapiolani ate her berries at once, while the people 
 watched her with awe and trembling. To their aston- 
 ishment nothing happened. Kapiolani neither vanished 
 from their sight, nor was she stricken to the ground by 
 the angry spirit, as they fully expected. There she 
 stood smiling, safe and sound. 
 
 Then, with eighty of her companions, she walked 
 down the steep path into the crater. When she reached 
 the edge of the fiery lake she cried out in a loud voice : 
 " The God who has made Kilauea is my God, and He 
 alone has kindled the fires of the volcano. I do not 
 fear Pele. If I perish through her anger, then con- 
 tinue to stand in awe of her ; but if I come away un- 
 harmed, I hope you will believe in the true God." 
 They waited, hardly daring to breathe, but still nothing 
 happened. The fires burned just as they had burned 
 before. The smoke rose to the sky, and blew away. 
 
79 
 
 There was no sound save that of Kapiolani's voice, and 
 of the waves of fire rising and falling. When they 
 saw that they were quite safe, they sang a hymn, and 
 then went up out of the crater. It must have been a 
 solemn sight to see the people waiting by the lake of 
 fire to learn the lesson Kapiolani wished to teach — that 
 their thoughts about Pele were but illusions. Thence- 
 forth the priests received no more presents, and no more 
 offerings were made to the spirit, and to-day nobody is 
 afraid of Pele. 
 
 XL THE FEAST 
 
 THE Hawaiians of old were generally people of 
 cleanly habits. They often bathed in the surf, 
 and their tapa mantles were not easily soiled. They 
 were also much more careful about their food than the 
 people of Africa, or some of the tribes of Indians, who 
 will eat almost anything. 
 
 They had a peculiar way of cooking, which is not 
 common now, except among those who live far away 
 from the villages and plantations, on the less thickly 
 settled islands. When the white people wish to enter- 
 tain their friends in the pleasantest way they can 
 think of, they employ a Hawaiian to prepare a native 
 feast, or lu-au\ at which the food is cooked in the 
 native manner. Invitations to such a feast are eagerly 
 accepted. 
 
 While they were in Hilo, Mr. and Mrs. Earle and 
 Alice were invited to one of these feasts, given in their 
 
8o 
 
 honor. The house to which they were invited was a 
 bungalow, like Mr. Danvers's house, with wide, shady- 
 verandas. The feast was to be held in a mango grove 
 behind the house. The night before, the Hawaiian who 
 was to do the cooking got his supplies together, and 
 made all his preparations. A deep hole was dug in the 
 
 A Native Feast 
 
 ground. This was lined with stones, upon which a fire 
 was built, and the stones were heated red-hot. They 
 were then allowed to cool a little, after which they were 
 covered with a thick layer of taro leaves. 
 
 The food to be cooked was fish, fowl, pork, and sweet 
 potatoes. The fish, fowl, and pork were cut into pieces, 
 and each piece was carefully wrapped by itself in a ti 
 leaf. This is the broad, tough leaf of a tree that grows 
 
8i 
 
 nearly everywhere in the fertile parts of the Islands. 
 It has a long stem. It is used instead of paper for 
 wrapping up meat and other things bought in the mar- 
 ket. The edges of the leaf are tightly twisted together, 
 and the long stem forms a sort of handle, by which the 
 parcel is carried, like a leaf basket. 
 
 When the leaves are wrapped around the fish and 
 pork to be cooked, the stem is left as a handle. These 
 little bundles are placed in the oven in layers, with a 
 taro leaf between each layer, which gives the food 
 a pleasant flavor. When the oven is partly full a little 
 water is poured in, and then some earth, and the food 
 is left to cook for many hours. 
 
 When in the old days a feast was given for the king 
 or the queen, or for a chief, an arbor of bamboo was 
 built, and this was covered with flowers and with the 
 ma-i'le^ 3. vine with very sweet-smelling leaves, and the 
 feast was spread on the ground under the arbor. 
 
 There was no arbor for the feast to which Alice was 
 invited. The food was spread on the grass under the 
 algaroba trees. There was no linen tablecloth, but the 
 ground was covered very thickly with large ferns, and 
 at each place was a ti leaf, upon which the fingers could 
 be wiped. Down the middle of the fern tablecloth 
 were placed a number of large polished calabashes. 
 These were filled with poi, and scattered among them 
 were tender young onions, and water lemons which 
 Alice at first thought were little gourds. There were 
 also a great many flowers, without which no table in 
 Hawaii is ever complete. 
 
 Before the feast was ready, the guests were given a 
 
 KROUT'S HAWAII — 6 
 
82 
 
 long garland of the sweet, dark green maile, which 
 each one was expected to wear. There were no chairs 
 at this Hawaiian feast, and all sat upon the ground, in 
 picnic fashion. Then the hot food was brought in by 
 the cook, who had taken great pains, and seemed very 
 proud when his cooking was praised. A smoking mor- 
 sel, done up in a ti leaf, was carried by the stem, and 
 placed in front of each guest, who opened it and ate the 
 meat with the fingers, in the real Hawaiian fashion. It 
 seemed to Alice very untidy, and those who were used 
 to knives and forks did not quite know how-to do with- 
 out them. 
 
 At each place there had been set a little dish filled 
 with chopped cocoanut and sea water, and the fowl and 
 pork were dipped into this as a relish, which was also a 
 Hawaiian custom. 
 
 The poi, which was eaten with the fingers, was hard 
 to manage, but the Hawaiian guests ate it without any 
 trouble, dipping it out of the calabash, rolling it into 
 a ball on the tip of the finger, and tossing it into the 
 mouth, without spilling a drop. Alice was afraid to try 
 it, when she saw that even her mother spilled it, and 
 she asked for a spoon, which was against the rules at 
 a luau. 
 
 They were all very hungry, and Alice thought that 
 no fish or chicken she had ever eaten had tasted so 
 good as this cooked in a little Hawaiian oven in the 
 ground. The onions, sweet potatoes, and salted shrimps 
 were eaten with the pork and fish. The Hawaiians of 
 old never cooked shrimps ; they brought them to the table, 
 where they crawled about and were eaten alive. Alice 
 
83 
 
 was glad that this unpleasant way of eating shrimps 
 had gone out of fashion. 
 
 For dessert they had melons and mangoes, and the 
 juicy water lemons; and they drank cocoanut milk. 
 Alice did not think the mangoes were half so good as 
 ripe peaches or apples. The thick, coarse rind, which 
 
 A Band of Singers 
 
 had a taste like turpentine, spoiled the fruit if it touched 
 the pulp, and the stone was very large and hard. 
 
 When the feast was nearly over, a band of singers came 
 with their little mandolins, and they sang and played for 
 the guests. When they had finished, it was time to start 
 back to the hotel. 
 
 XII. A SUGAR PLANTATION 
 
 BEFORE they returned to Honolulu, Alice went 
 with her father to see one of the large sugar 
 plantations near Hilo. No wheat, or corn, except th^ 
 
84 
 
 little that is raised in the Chinese gardens, grows 
 in the Hawaiian Islands, and but very few potatoes 
 are raised there. Those that are sold in the market are 
 sent to the Islands either from our country or from 
 New Zealand. 
 
 A great part of the fertile land is planted with sugar 
 
 Eating Sugar Cane 
 
 cane, which has always grown in the Islands, but has 
 been much improved by cultivation. 
 
 The cane grows very tall and is a bright yellow-green, 
 with blossoms like the sorghum. The stalk is filled 
 with pith like the cornstalk, but more juicy. From this 
 sweet juice the sugar is extracted. 
 
 The cane does not grow from seed, but from cuttings 
 planted in furrows. The sugar cane in the Hawaiian 
 Islands yields more sugar than that grown in our South- 
 
85 
 
 ern states, where often the cold weather comes before 
 the cane is fully ripe. 
 
 The cane is cut by Japanese laborers. Alice had 
 seen them at work in the fields the day she went to 
 the volcano. They had short, sharp knives, with which 
 they cut down the long stalks. The cane must be sent 
 to the mills as soon as it is cut. Otherwise it ferments, 
 in which case it is fit for nothing but fuel. 
 
 Some of the fields are crossed by little railway lines 
 that can be moved from place to place. The cane is 
 loaded on to small cars and taken in this way to the 
 mill. Alice took a ride on one of these trains of cars 
 before the cane was cut. It was very pleasant to go 
 flying through the fields, with the tall cane growing 
 higher than a man's head, in every direction. 
 
 In fields where there is no railway, there are wooden 
 troughs on high trestles. These are filled with water, 
 and a slight incline toward the mill makes a strong cur- 
 rent. The cane is carried from the fields to this flume, 
 or trough, and is floated quickly down to the mill. 
 When the supply of cane runs low the engineer whis- 
 tles for more. When the grinding begins the mills 
 run day and night. 
 
 There is no special season for planting cane in the 
 Hawaiian Islands, as in a country where the cane must 
 be cut before the cold weather comes. Sometimes the 
 planting, cutting, and grinding all go on at the same 
 time. The mill is a very busy place, lit up at night by 
 electric Hght. 
 
 When the cane reaches the mill it is cut into pieces. 
 This work is often done by Japanese women. The cane 
 
86 
 
 is then torn into shreds by a machine called a shredder. 
 The mass of shredded cane is passed under heavy rol- 
 lers until it is squeezed dry. The juice is a pale green. 
 This is boiled until a thick, gray scum rises to the top, 
 a little lime being put into the juice to destroy the acid, 
 which would prevent the sugar from forming. The 
 
 Loading Cane on the Cars 
 
 juice is allowed to cool, and the scum is taken off until 
 the juice is quite clear. It is, however, purified still 
 more by being strained through bags, and then the 
 pure juice is placed in open pans so that the watery 
 part may evaporate, that is, pass off into the air. That 
 which remains is the molasses. It is boiled again, in a 
 large vessel called a vacuum pan. Now it begins to 
 turn into sugar. It is very important that it should not 
 
87 
 
 boil too long in the vacuum pan, as this wastes the sugar. 
 Last of all it is placed in large vessels which whirl rap- 
 idly round and round. The sugar separates from the 
 molasses and settles in a thick coating around the sides 
 of the vessel. The molasses still left runs out through 
 
 Quarters on a Sugar Plantation 
 
 a strainer of wire gauze and is collected in a large vat 
 down under the mill. Sometimes this molasses is boiled 
 over, and more sugar is obtained from it, but not of so 
 good a quality as that made first. All this is done very 
 quickly, and a few hours from the time the cane is put 
 into the shredder, the pale yellow sugar is dry and ready 
 to be put into bags to be shipped to the United States. 
 
88 
 
 There, by a long and tedious process called refining, 
 the pure white sugar is made. 
 
 The little houses of the Japanese laborers who work 
 in the cornfields were interesting to see. They were 
 clustered together in a deep gorge near a stream. The 
 steep roofs were made of overlapping palm leaves. 
 
 Japanese House 
 
 Every cottage had a pretty garden of flowers and 
 vegetables, for the Japanese, like the Hawaiians, are 
 great lovers of flowers. 
 
 These laborers come from Japan to work on the 
 sugar plantations, agreeing to stay three years, after 
 which they are free to return to Japan. This they are 
 not always ready to do, for they can earn much more 
 
89 
 
 money in the Hawaiian Islands, and live with greater 
 comfort there than in their own country. The planter 
 not only pays them wages, but provides them with 
 houses, with fuel for their fires, and with a doctor 
 when they are ill. Sunday is a day of rest on the 
 plantations, a holiday which the Japanese do not have 
 in Japan. 
 
 The mills furnish work for the women, also, if they 
 desire it. As the Japanese are very frugal, and do not 
 waste their wages, when they go back to Japan with 
 the money they have earned and saved in Hawaii, they 
 are considered rich. 
 
 Alice was much interested in the pretty children play- 
 ing about the doors, or following their mothers who 
 were tying up the vines, or were busy among the 
 flowers. A lovely spot was that deep, shady ravine, 
 with the clear stream running down to the sea, and 
 Alice did not wonder that the Japanese are so happy 
 and contented, and that many of them do not care to 
 return to their own country. It is pleasant for them to 
 live where they can always have work, where there is 
 no winter, no frost or snow, and where the flowers 
 bloom the whole year round. 
 
 ^iO- 
 
 
90 
 
 XIII. MAUI 
 
 ALICE was sorry when the visit to Hilo came to an 
 end. She had learned to love the pretty village 
 with its gardens of roses and steep, shady streets. 
 
 They could not stay longer because they were to make 
 a short visit to Mau'i before they returned to Honolulu, 
 and they planned also to take a trip to Kau-ai', which is 
 northwest of Oahu. 
 
 They sailed up the eastern or windward side, which, 
 unlike the leeward side, is rich with plantations, and 
 dense growths of ferns and bananas. Through this 
 tangle of plants and flowers, countless streams, clear as 
 crystal, pour down into the sea. There are little spar- 
 kling rivulets, misty waterfalls, and rushing cascades. 
 
 In the afternoon the steamer anchored near a small 
 Hawaiian village, and Alice went ashore with her father. 
 The village was not clean, and the people sitting in 
 their doorways looked idle and untidy. 
 
 Far up the mountain side could be seen tiny cottages 
 like small white specks surrounded by gardens. Still 
 farther off there were several fine houses in which the 
 planters lived. Maui in the distance looked like a great 
 rounded mountain. 
 
 They left the windward side of Hawaii and crossed 
 the channel to the barren coast of Maui. There they 
 took on board a number of pigs. These were driven 
 down to the edge of the water, where they were caught 
 by the leg and nose and thrown into a barge which lay 
 close to the shore. The barge then went out to the 
 
91 
 
 steamer, which lay in the roadstead (a calm place where 
 ships can anchor), because there was no pier where it 
 could land. The poor pigs seemed to know that they 
 were being taken from their home, for they struggled 
 and squealed most pitifully. 
 
 Dense Growths of Fern 
 
 Mr. Earle and Alice did not like to see the pigs put 
 into the barge, so they went up on the mountain side 
 for a walk. It was very steep and rough, with but few 
 trees, and only a little coarse grass. Large blocks and 
 fragments of lava were scattered about. They could 
 see the houses far below them, and the steamer, with 
 
92 
 
 the people walking about the deck. When the whistle 
 
 blew they were rowed back to the steamer, which then 
 
 went on its way. 
 
 Late in the evening they reached La-hai'na, where 
 
 they were to stay for a few days. 
 
 As the sun set they saw a large whale, not very far 
 
 away, and Mr. Earle told Alice that there were always 
 
 a great many whales in that channel. 
 
 At Lahaina there were carriages waiting to meet the 
 
 passengers who went ashore. In one of these Mr. 
 
 Earle and his party were driven to the house they were 
 
 to visit. 
 
 Maui is almost like two islands, united by a narrow, 
 
 sandy isthmus. Thistle and indigo are the only plants 
 
 that thrive in this sandy isthmus. As the sea washes 
 the shore to the north and south, the wind blows across 
 the isthmus nearly all the time. The road is buried, 
 and the air is filled with clouds of dust. It is some- 
 times very hard for travelers to keep in the path. The 
 isthmus is about eight miles wide. 
 
 In the smaller part of Maui, which, like the village, is 
 called Lahaina, there is a valley called I-a'o, which vis- 
 itors to Maui always go to see. It is walled in by 
 cliffs from three thousand to six thousand feet high. 
 The trail, or road, runs through a deep gorge covered 
 with forests. The walls of the cliffs, which inclose 
 the valley on three sides, are covered with pale 
 green candle nut trees, and with thousands of ferns. 
 Streams and waterfalls flow down the cliffs in every 
 direction. They empty into a very swift stream called 
 Wai-lu'ku. Wailuku means "waters of destruction." 
 
93 
 
 The stream received its name in memory of a great battle 
 fought in the lao valley, in which many men were killed 
 
 (Copyright, 1899, hy C. C. LangiU 
 
 The Needles 
 
 White clouds float across the face of the cliff, and 
 with these the whole valley is sometimes filled. 
 
 From the village of Waihiku there is a little railway 
 leading to the large sugar plantations at Spreckelsville. 
 
94 
 
 Mr. Earle's main purpose in Maui was to visit Ha-le- 
 a-ka-la', the largest extinct volcano on the globe. The 
 name means " the house of the sun." The great 
 hollow crater is eighteen miles around, and when, ages 
 ago, it was alive with flaming fire and boiling lava, the 
 name was very appropriate. 
 
 There is no comfortable way of making the journey 
 
 Village of Wailuku 
 
 to the top of Haleakala, so, much to Alice's regret, she 
 and her mother remained behind. 
 
 The party which ]y[r. Earle joined started in the 
 afternoon from Ma-ka-wa'o, which is some distance up 
 the mountain side. The road was rough, and it rained 
 very hard. Late in the evening, when they were 
 almost at the top, they halted and prepared to camp 
 until daylight. 
 
95 
 
 A fire was made, supper was cooked, and they lay 
 down to sleep, rolled up in their blankets ; but they were 
 kept awake by the bitter cold and the wind. The cold 
 had grown more intense as they approached the top of 
 the mountain, which was ten thousand feet high. 
 
 The lower slopes of the mountains were covered with 
 forests, but higher up there were only tough shrubs, 
 
 On Top of Haleakala 
 
 coarse grass and ferns, and scoriae or ashes. At the 
 very top there were more scoriae but very few ferns. 
 
 When they reached the top they stood looking down 
 into the hollow shell of Haleakala, shut in by walls 
 eighteen miles around. The crater lay two thousand 
 feet below. Beneath this bed were layers upon layers 
 of lava, which had cooled and hardened, until they 
 were like stone. 
 
 The floor of Haleakala is not level, or ridged, like 
 
96 
 
 that of Kilauea, but jagged and broken ; and there are 
 cones that are as high as very high hills. Along the 
 north and east wall, inside the crater, are two great 
 openings, Ko-o-lau' and Kau'po Gaps. At some time, 
 long ago, when the fires were burning in Haleakala, 
 the lava forced its way through these gaps, down the 
 mountain side into the sea. Such a stream of red-hot 
 lava poured out of Kilauea about fifty years ago, and 
 heated the water so that thousands of fish were killed. 
 How it must have hissed and steamed, and what a terri- 
 fying sight it must have been ! 
 
 The rocks and lava in the crater of Haleakala are 
 colored by the fierce heat, as though they had just been 
 cooled. At times clouds moved across the crater, hiding 
 it altogether from view ; then they broke away and the 
 sun shone brightly ; and at one time they settled down 
 within the crater, giving it the appearance of a sea of 
 milk-white foam, rising and falling and gliding away. 
 
 Mr. Earle brought Alice some silver swords, strange 
 plants that grow thickly on the top of the mountain 
 near the crater. They are a shimmering white, and the 
 long slender leaves look as if they were cut out of strips 
 of frosted silver. 
 
 >>«<t 
 
 XIV. THE STORY OF CAPTAIN COOK 
 
 ALICE had been wondering for some time why she 
 saw so few animals in the Islands, and she was all 
 the more surprised to learn that before the coming of 
 
97 
 
 the white man there had been fewer still. Pigs, dogs, 
 and mice were the only animals to be found there before 
 the visit of the famous Captain Cook, who brought with 
 him three goats, a boar, and a pig of English breed. 
 Alice had never heard of Captain Cook, and in answer 
 to her many questions, her father told her the following 
 story : 
 
 Captain Cook was a fearless English sailor, who, on 
 his third voyage of discovery round the globe, landed, 
 in 1778, with his two ships, the Resolution and the 
 Discovery^ on the island of Kauai. 
 
 He was not the first white man to visit Hawaii, but 
 the few Spaniards who had stopped there, more than 
 two hundred years before him, had long since been for- 
 gotten. 
 
 Now it so happened that the Hawaiians believed in a 
 god, Lo'no, who, they thought, had left their Islands to 
 visit another country, but would some day return ; so 
 when they saw this odd-looking man come sailing toward 
 them in his strange ship, at once they thought it must 
 be Lono. Soon the people gathered in crowds on the 
 shore, and some of them, though they feared to go on 
 board, rowed out near the vessel. 
 
 When Captain Cook went ashore, the people were so 
 frightened that they fell flat on their faces. But he 
 made them understand that he would not hurt them, 
 and then they were more certain than ever that he was a 
 god. A priest recited a long prayer, after which the 
 people brought offerings of vegetables, pigs, and fruit. 
 Captain Cook, in return, gave them nails and scraps of 
 iron, which they valued as a precious metal, for iron was 
 
 KROUT's HAWAII — 7 
 
98 
 
 nowhere found on the Islands, and they used it for brace- 
 lets and other ornaments, and for weapons. 
 
 Captain Cook visited the island of Ni-i-hau', and he 
 left there seeds of melons, pumpkins, and onions. 
 The chiefs had been prepared by their neighbors for 
 
 An Offering to Captain Cook 
 
 something strange, but none the less they were startled 
 by the sight of the foreigners. One of the Hawaiians 
 thus described the Englishmen : 
 
 " The men are white ; their skin is loose and folding ; 
 their heads are angular ; fire and smoke issue from their 
 mouths ; they have openings in the sides of their bodies, 
 
99 
 
 into which they thrust their hands, and draw forth iron, 
 beads, nails, and other treasures ; their language cannot 
 be understood. This is the way they speak : * a hi-ka' 
 pa-la'le, hi-ka' pa-la' le, hi-o-lu-ai', o'a-la'ki, wa-la' wa-la'ki, 
 po'ha.' " 
 
 The smoke and fire came from pipes, which had 
 never before been seen by the natives, and the holes in 
 their bodies were the pockets in their trousers. 
 
 Before Captain Cook left, he named the country Sand- 
 wich Islands, after an English nobleman, Lord Sand- 
 wich ; but the natives have always preferred the old 
 name " Hawaii," and by that name they still call their 
 country. 
 
 About a year later, Captain Cook again visited Ha- 
 waii and, for a time, was regarded with even greater 
 awe than before. At one place the beautiful feather 
 mantle of the king was thrown over his shoulders, 
 which was the greatest compliment that could be paid 
 him. The mantle was made of tiny yellow feathers, 
 fastened to a sort of net made of hemp, and the surface 
 was as smooth as the breast of a bird. It took thou- 
 sands of feathers to make a single cloak, and these 
 cloaks were so costly that none but the kings could 
 afford to wear them. 
 
 The birds from which the yellow feathers were ob- 
 tained were not easy to catch. They lived on honey, 
 and had long, curved bills. They had only two or 
 three yellow feathers under each wing. The rest of 
 the plumage was black, changing to greenish gold, like 
 the feathers of the blackbird. The birds were not 
 killed, but were caught by smearing the boughs of the 
 
[OO 
 
 trees on which they alighted with a sticky gum, which 
 held them fast. 
 
 Then the yellow feathers were pulled out and the 
 birds were set -free, that the feathers might grow again. 
 The people were required to bring -the king one or more 
 
 Feather Mantle 
 
 of the yellow feathers each year, and it was from these 
 that the splendid mantles were made. They were also 
 used for helmets, for short capes, and for necklaces ; 
 but none of these were so beautiful or so costly as the 
 mantles. Only men of the highest rank could wear the 
 helmets and capes. 
 
 Although the English sailors shared with Captain 
 
lOI - ; ', ',, ; \iJ ;• 
 
 Cook the hospitality of the natives, they were very un- 
 grateful. They broke the laws, and laughed at the 
 most sacred customs of the Hawaiians, and soon the 
 natives began to tire of their guests. Just then one of 
 the English seamen died and was buried, and this proved 
 that the English- 
 men were not 
 gods after all, for 
 the gods could not 
 die. 
 
 Quarrels between the 
 English and the natives 
 grew more frequent 
 every day, and when 
 Captain Cook and his 
 party finally sailed away, 
 the Hawaiians were very 
 glad to see them go. But 
 an accident at sea compelled them 
 to come back, and this time they 
 received a cold welcome. P^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ 
 
 When they landed, the people 
 ran away and hid,' and they removed their boats to 
 places safe from the English. 
 
 Quarrels now grew worse and worse. The natives 
 were accused by the sailors of stealing, and in a scuffle 
 one of their chiefs was thrown to the ground. In re- 
 venge, his friends, the following night, stole one of the 
 boats belonging to the Discovery and broke it to pieces 
 in order to secure the iron nails. When the captain 
 heard of this theft, he determined to get the king on 
 
102 
 
 board and keep him there a prisoner until the Hawai- 
 ians should restore the boat, for he did not know that it 
 had been destroyed. While Captain Cook went ashore 
 to invite the king to come on board, three boats, filled 
 with armed men, waited in the bay, to keep away all 
 ships from the other islands. The sailors were told 
 that no Hawaiian boats must be allowed to pass to reach 
 the king. 
 
 Two chiefs, who did not know of this order, were 
 rowing toward the shore when the English sailors fired 
 on them, and one of them was killed. The other has- 
 tened to the shore and told the king what had hap- 
 pened. A great crowd at once gathered around the 
 king to protect him with their spears and knives from 
 Captain Cook and his companions. In the fight which 
 followed, the sailors in the boats fired upon the Ha- 
 waiians. This made the natives so angry that one of 
 them stabbed Captain Cook in the back, and he fell 
 down dead. Several of the men who had gone ashore 
 with him were also killed. The others were saved only 
 by swimming to their boats. 
 
 An officer on the Resolution saw through his glass the 
 danger of the Englishmen, and fifed with his cannon 
 upon the natives, who were so frightened by the flash 
 of light and the loud noise like thunder, that they ran 
 away and hid themselves in the mountains. By that 
 time seventeen Hawaiians had been killed, five of them 
 being chiefs of the highest rank. 
 
 Captain Cook's body was carried by priests into one 
 of the sacred houses, high up on a steep cHff. The 
 bones were carefully scraped of the flesh, tied up with 
 
I03 
 
 red feathers, as in the case of kings and chiefs, and 
 then secretly buried. Many bundles of bones pre- 
 pared in this way have been found in caves in dif- 
 ferent parts of the Islands. 
 
 After Captain Cook was killed, the English set fire 
 to one of the villages, and burned up the sacred houses. 
 
 Captain Cook's Monument 
 
 A part of Captain Cook's bones were given up to the 
 English officers who commanded the Resolution and 
 the Discovery^ and they were buried at sea. 
 
 It was many years after Captain Cook's death before 
 any other English ship visited the Hawaiian Islands. 
 
 XV. KAUAI AND THE KOULA FALLS 
 
 WHEN Alice returned to Honolulu she rested 
 there a few days and was then ready to start 
 on the trip to Kauai which is called "The Garden 
 Island." Kauai, the most northern of the Hawaiian 
 
I04 
 
 Islands, is almost circular in shape. It has but one 
 high mountain, Wai-a-le-a'le. A great part of the is- 
 land is covered with swamps and with rich fields of 
 sugar cane. 
 
 The trees found in greatest abundance are the o-ki'a^ 
 the kou, the koa, and the ugly screw palm — a tree that 
 seems to stand upon its uncovered roots, which grow 
 from the trunk, several feet in length and bury them- 
 selves in the earth. The gray-green leaves are slender, 
 and the edges are toothed like the edge of a saw. 
 
 The mountains of Kauai, while they are not so high 
 as those of Maui and Hawaii, have been forced up in 
 the same way, and there are great numbers of empty 
 craters. Between the mountains are deep, fertile val- 
 leys. There are no large towns on Kauai; only small 
 villages, in which there are no hotels. 
 
 The Hawaiians on Kauai were among the last to 
 become civilized. They did not like to wear clothing, 
 such as white men wear ; and they preferred their own 
 religion, and their own doctors, or sorcerers. 
 
 Kauai is famous for its horses which were introduced 
 from America, and most of the natives are fearless 
 riders. One feat of which they are very proud is, while 
 riding at a gallop, to lean down to pick up a small coin 
 from the ground. 
 
 As the island of Kauai is somewhat out of the way, 
 it is not often visited by travelers. The volcano of 
 Kilauea, and the level tropical forests attract them to 
 the island of Hawaii ; and the great crater of Haleakala 
 draws them to Maui. But in Kauai there is not much 
 of interest. 
 
105 
 
 Before the steamship line was opened the journey 
 was made in sailing vessels. It can now be made in 
 less than twenty-four hours from Honolulu, but for- 
 merly it took ten days, or longer. This was because the 
 wind blew the ships away from, instead of toward, 
 Kauai. 
 
 The trade winds were not blowing when the Earles 
 first arrived in Honolulu, and they had only the ordi- 
 nary breezes and the hot south winds, which the natives 
 call the Kona winds. 
 
 While they were in Kauai, the latter part of March, 
 the trades began to blow. They began very suddenly 
 with a rushing, roaring sound, bending and twisting 
 the palms, and rustling the leaves of the mango and 
 umbrella trees. Clouds of dust filled the air along the 
 traveled roads, and there was no lull, day or night, for 
 nearly a week. 
 
 Every one who could do so stayed indoors ; for it was 
 hard even to walk in such a gale. The wind was not 
 cold, but fresh and invigorating, for it had blown over 
 long stretches of cool ocean. When it became calmer, 
 it was as if there had been a great storm, although very 
 little rain had fallen. All the dead boughs had been 
 torn from the trees, and the dead leaves and grass had 
 been blown away. It is in this way that the trees are 
 stripped of their dead leaves. 
 
 It was while they were in Kauai that Alice first saw 
 the Hawaiians making aJwa. This is a drink of which 
 they are fond, but which is very harmful to them. It 
 is made from the root of the awa, a plant found in the 
 forest. The root is thoroughly chewed by two or three 
 
io6 
 
 people with strong teeth. Then it is put into a cala- 
 bash, water is poured over it, and it is mixed and kneaded 
 like dough. After this more water is added, and it is 
 again mixed and strained. Before it is ready for use 
 it looks like frothy soapsuds. It has a soothing effect, 
 making those who drink it fall into a deep sleep and 
 dream pleasant dreams ; but it causes feebleness and 
 disease. 
 
 Formerly only chiefs and priests were allowed to 
 drink awa. It has a burning, biting taste, somewhat 
 like horse-radish. When a man once begins to drink 
 awa or ka^va as it is also called, it is very hard for him 
 to give up the habit. After a time the eyes of an awa 
 drinker are sure to grow very red, and the skin becomes 
 thick and scaly. 
 
 There were goats and deer in the forests, and on the 
 mountain slopes of Kauai. Like the horses, they had 
 been brought to Kauai by white men, and as they were 
 seldom hunted and killed, they had multipHed very 
 quickly. 
 
 While they were in Kauai Alice visited the beautiful 
 Falls of the Han-a-pe'pe, which is the largest river in that 
 island. It is a very rough ride, and Mr. Earle at first 
 thought that Alice ought not to attempt it ; but she 
 begged so hard, that he decided to let her go. She had 
 become a very expert rider by this time, for in Hawaii 
 every one rides on horseback. People make nearly all 
 their long journeys in this way, where they cannot go in 
 boats, for there are very few roads except the narrow 
 paths, called trails. The horses are sure-footed and pick 
 their way along very carefully among the rocks. 
 
I07 
 
 The children at the house where Mr. and Mrs. Earle 
 were staying could catch and saddle the horses as easily 
 and quickly as could the men, although they were no 
 older than Alice. Alice learned the art from them, 
 and was very proud of her skill. 
 
 The ride to the falls tested her courage, for they often 
 had to ford the rapid river, and the noise of the water 
 
 Valley of Hanapepe River 
 
 made her dizzy. Still, she held firmly to her saddle, and 
 went bravely on. 
 
 Much of the time they rode through the soft grass, 
 without a trail to guide them. The forests through 
 which they passed were full of beautiful song birds. 
 
 The Hanapepe River, at the place where they first 
 forded it, flows between two walls two thousand feet 
 high and almost perpendicular. 
 
 The Ko-u'la Falls are at the head of a gorge that widens 
 
io8 
 
 into a valley, through which the river makes its way to 
 the sea. Cold streams, clear as crystal, trickle and leap 
 down the canon walls, which are covered with ferns, 
 mosses, and other plants that love the cool, damp shade. 
 The gorge is four miles long, and the river drops in a 
 broad, silvery sheet over a ledge more than three hun- 
 dred feet high. 
 
 Koula Falls 
 
 The water comes down from its great height with 
 a deafening roar, filling the gorge with spray, like fine 
 rain. The sun shines into the gorge only at noon, when 
 it is overhead ; at all other times it is in deep shadow. 
 All about it, the rocky ledges are thickly overgrown with 
 the ohia, the candle nut, the banana, and the Eugenia, 
 which has vivid scarlet blossoms. 
 
 The ride had been long and rough, and they were all 
 glad to rest and admire the beauty of the rushing water 
 
IC9 
 
 and the tangled greenery that clothed the rocks which 
 hemmed it in. 
 
 After luncheon they set out to retrace the difficult path 
 by which they had come. It was nearly dark when they 
 reached their friend's house, for the twihght in the 
 Hawaiian Islands is very short, and the night comes 
 quickly when the sun has set. Alice was stiff and tired 
 when her father lifted her off her horse, but she knew 
 that a night's rest would refresh her, and felt that the 
 beauties of the falls had more than repaid her for a 
 little weariness. 
 
 >NKc 
 
 XVI. AN INTERESTING SCOTCH FAMILY 
 
 AT Kauai Alice met a number of Scotch people, who, 
 as she soon discovered, all belonged to the same 
 family, and they had an interesting story to tell. A 
 Scotchman and his wife, — Mr. and Mrs. Sinclair — with 
 their children and grandchildren, had come from Scot- 
 land to settle in New Zealand. Soon after their arri- 
 val Mr. Sinclair had been drowned, and after that his 
 wife, becoming dissatisfied with New Zealand, decided 
 to look elsewhere for a home. So she fitted up her ship 
 with every possible convenience, and prepared to sail 
 about until she should find a home large enough for 
 herself and her growing family. 
 
 At last they landed at Hawaii, and the king, seeing 
 at once that it would be an advantage to have such 
 
no 
 
 excellent people to settle among his subjects, offered 
 them the whole of the island of Niihau for a very small 
 sum of money. Mrs. Sinclair accepted the offer and 
 at once began to settle down in her new home. Before 
 long their house was built, and the sheep and cattle 
 which they had brought with them from New Zealand 
 were , peacefully grazing in the pastures. 
 
 After a while Mrs. Sinclair decided to move to Kauai, 
 leaving her son and his wife to take care of the flocks 
 and herds on Niihau. At Kauai a new house was built 
 on a fiat mountain top, where it was cool and pleasant. 
 The house was very large, with verandas all around it. 
 Roses and passion flowers climbed to the roof. The 
 broad lawns were planted with palms and orange trees, 
 and many beautiful flowering shrubs. 
 
 Here the mother and the children lived happily and 
 peacefully together. The daughters taught the young 
 Hawaiian girls how to cook and sew and keep house. 
 They also taught them to read and write, which most, 
 of them learned very quickly. There were often as 
 many as ten of these young Hawaiian girls living with 
 the family at one time. They were clothed and fed and 
 taught without charge, by their kind Scotch friends ; 
 but many of them insisted on paying for their favors 
 by working one day in the month for their teachers. 
 
 While the sisters were. busy in the house, the brothers 
 were at work in the fields. They raised crops of various 
 kinds, and cattle, sheep, and horses. They were good 
 friends to the Hawaiians, who loved and respected 
 them. 
 
 They were happy among themselves, and though they 
 
lived so far away from other white people they were 
 never dull or lonely. Whenever ships went back to 
 Scotland and the United States, they sent for books 
 and magazines and newspapers, so that they always 
 knew what was going on in the world. 
 
 Teachers came to live with the family, and taught 
 them everything they wished to learn. They learned 
 how to speak French and German, and they became 
 good musicians. So, with their books, their music, and 
 their work among the Hawaiians, their labors in the 
 garden, and their exercise on horseback, time passed 
 pleasantly, and they would not have changed their 
 Hawaiian home for any other in the world. 
 
 Mrs. Sinclair once went back to visit her relatives in 
 Scotland, but she was glad to return to Kauai. She 
 said it made her sad to see so many people who had 
 not enough to eat, and scarcely enough clothes to keep 
 them warm. In Kauai there was enough, and more 
 than enough, for all ; and no one was ever hungry or 
 knew what it was to suffer want. The good Scotch 
 woman lived to be very old. She died and was buried 
 on the land where she lived so long with her family ; 
 and her children and grandchildren are living there to 
 this day. 
 
 XVII. THE MARKET 
 
 ONE of the most interesting places that Alice vis- 
 ited while she was in Honolulu was the fish mar- 
 ket. On a Saturday afternoon, which was the best time 
 
112 
 
 to go, she went with her father and mother, not only 
 to see the strange things that were bought and sold, 
 but also to watch the people. The market was their 
 great place of meeting, and they gathered there from 
 far and near. 
 
 Both men and women were dressed in their best 
 clothes. The poorer men wore suits of white or blue 
 cotton, with straw hats bound with wreaths of yellow 
 flowers, and yellow garlands around their necks. The 
 richer men were dressed in pure white duck, and, 
 instead of flowers, their leis were of peacock feathers. 
 These are very costly, and none but the well-to-do 
 Hawaiians can afford to wear them. The women were 
 in holokus of white, blue, pink, and green, and they, too, 
 wore a great many leis. 
 
 Many of the people from the plantations had come 
 to market on horseback. The horses were tied to 
 racks near by. They were poor, half-starved creatures, 
 for the Hawaiians are not very kind to animals, except 
 to their pet dogs and pigs. They ride their horses at a 
 gallop, no matter how lame and sick they may be, and 
 they never curry or feed them well. If any one should 
 tell them how cruel such treatment is, they would only 
 laugh and say that it is silly to care so much about a 
 horse, which does not cost much and could be easily re- 
 placed if it should die. The market house was a wooden 
 building, rather gray and weather-beaten. It was open 
 on every side, with only the roof as a shelter from the 
 rain. There were tables piled with fish, seaweed, and 
 a kind of fresh-water weed of which the Hawaiians eat 
 a great deal. The weeds were rolled into balls. 
 
113 
 
 Between the tables were narrow aisles, and these 
 were crowded with people, bargaining and buying and 
 selling, laughing and chattering. 
 
 Alice had never seen so great a crowd at a market ; 
 there were at least two thousand people moving about 
 or stopping at the counters, whenever they caught 
 sight of anything they especially wanted. 
 
 There are not many birds, except mynahs, doves, and 
 
 Honolulu Fish Market 
 
 sparrows, in the groves around Honolulu, and these are 
 all of a very sober color ; but the fish seem to make 
 up in their brilliant hues what the birds lack. Some are 
 of a very elegant form, and others are hideous and re- 
 pulsive. Alice could scarcely bear to look at the ugly 
 squid, which is not a fish, although it swims about in the 
 water. The body is like a wrinkled seamy bag, with 
 two dull eyes, and out of this bag extend long, writhing, 
 twining arms that catch and hold whatever comes within 
 
 KROUT's HAWAII — 8 
 
. 114 
 
 their reach. Some of the squids are several feet in 
 length. As they lay upon the table in the market, the 
 long arms or tentacles were twisted and knotted together 
 in a tangled heap. The squid is of many bright colors, 
 which deepen and fade and glow again while it is 
 dying. 
 
 Mr. Earle told Alice that the Hawaiians thought the 
 squid a great delicacy, and ate it raw with their poi. 
 
 One very large fish that AUce saw was of a pale rose 
 color, and she could imagine how beautiful it must 
 look, swimming among the coral, far down in the 
 depths of the clear water. There was another of dark 
 blue, with deep scarlet figures along its sides, like some 
 sort of strange lettering, in which its name might have 
 been written. Another, which her father told her was 
 the sea cock, or ki'hi-ki'hi was striped with bands of 
 brilliant yellow and black. Others were dotted and 
 mottled, and were of pink, brown, green, and blue. 
 
 Beside the fish, there were limpets and oysters, 
 which were found among the coral ; sea urchins, covered 
 with purple spines, and the ti'lUf a great lobster without 
 claws. 
 
 In addition to the live fish in the market there were 
 also baked and dried fish, which were sold tied up in 
 ti leaves, 
 
 Alice saw many Hawaiians eating raw fish, which 
 some of them prefer to cooked fish. In former days 
 even the priests and kings ate raw fish, and a good 
 many Hawaiians still follow this custom. 
 
 The market is not only a place where fish are bought 
 and sold, but a place for the discussion of topics of gen- 
 
115 
 
 eral interest. Speeches are frequently made by Hawai- 
 ian orators. Many of them speak with energy and 
 feeling, and can persuade those who listen to them to do 
 almost anything they advise. Sometimes the speeches 
 are by ministers, for the Hawaiians are always ready to 
 listen to a good sermon, although they do not always 
 practice what they applaud and seem to approve. 
 
 At other times, the speeches are political, that is, 
 about the government. The speeches are always in 
 Hawaiian, and so when Ahce and her father stopped a 
 moment to listen, they could not understand what was 
 said ; but it amused them to watch the audience, who 
 seemed to be very much pleased and excited. They 
 clapped their hands and cried out in Hawaiian, to show 
 that they agreed with what the speaker was saying. 
 
 It was altogether the strangest market place that 
 Alice had ever seen, with the throngs of people coming 
 and going, the piles of colored fish, the garlands of 
 flowers, and in the midst of all the orator and his 
 audience. 
 
 >J«ic 
 
 XVni. SANDALWOOD 
 
 WHILE they were in Honolulu Mr. Earle told 
 Alice a great many stories about the Hawaiians, 
 and what had been done to make their country rich 
 and prosperous. Among other things he told her of 
 the time when sandalwood had been used for money. 
 
ii6 
 
 Almost every country has its own kind of money. 
 Among civilized people it consists of copper, nickel, 
 silver, or gold coin, and of paper notes which stand 
 for gold and silver, for which the paper can be ex- 
 changed at any time. This money, except that the 
 coins are made of the same kind of metal, is not alike 
 in any two countries. Even the paper notes in one 
 country differ from those in another. 
 
 Uncivilized people use, instead of money, whatever 
 articles they value most. The Indians in North Amer- 
 ica formerly used strings of shells, called wampum ; and 
 the people in Africa buy and sell with beads, wire, and 
 colored cloth. 
 
 The Hawaiians in the old days traded with sandal- 
 wood — a very fragrant wood from a small tree which 
 grew everywhere in the Islands. 
 
 Most of the sandalwood was taken to China and 
 sold there to the Chinese, who carved and fashioned it 
 into a great variety of beautiful things, — costly fans, 
 boxes, cabinets, stools, and chairs. 
 
 But the English and American traders often did not 
 deal fairly with the Hawaiians, and made them give too 
 much sandalwood in exchange for their goods. They 
 gave the Hawaiians only eight or ten dollars for one 
 hundred and thirty-three pounds of sandalwood, which 
 was sold in China for ten times as much. 
 
 In spite of, the dishonesty of the white men, the 
 Hawaiian kings and chiefs grew rich from the sale of 
 sandalwood ; for all the land and all that grew thereon 
 belonged to them, and the Islands at one time were 
 covered with sandalwood trees. In return for the 
 
117 
 
 wood, the traders gave the chiefs all sorts of fine Chi- 
 nese silks, guns, powder and shot, and even large boats 
 and schooners, in which they could sail long distances 
 from one island to another. 
 
 It took a great deal of sandalwood to carry on this 
 trade, and now there are but few of these trees left 
 in the Islands. Violent quarrels, in which men were 
 wounded and killed, grew out of the trade, and many 
 other evils were traced to it. 
 
 The Hawaiians who were sent to collect the wood 
 were forced to leave their work, and the crops were 
 neglected. There was no one to plant taro, or gather 
 bananas, or catch fish, and food became so scarce that 
 at length there came a famine, and a great many per- 
 sons starved to death. 
 
 Kamehameha the Great was at this time king of 
 the Hawaiian Islands, and he was greatly beloved. 
 Before his time each island had its own chief, but 
 he conquered them all, and ruled over the whole 
 group from 1795 to 18 19. The four Kamehamehas 
 who ruled after him, from 18 19 to 1872, had many 
 noble qualities, but they were fond of ease and in- 
 temperate. 
 
 When Kamehameha the Great saw his people starv- 
 ing because food was so scarce, he would not let the 
 men collect any more of the wood, but sent them, as 
 well as the soldiers, back to their homes to take care of 
 their crops. To encourage them, he himself dug and 
 planted taro in the fields, and for many years the piece 
 of ground in which he worked was kept sacred, and it 
 can still be pointed out. 
 
ii8 
 
 XIX. INSECTS 
 
 ONE day Alice went with her mother and father to 
 dine with some friends at Waikiki, and as she was 
 leaving, her hostess handed her a small grass basket 
 filled with salted almonds. 
 
 When she went to her room she set the basket on the 
 window sill, behind the door, and did not think of it 
 again for several days. When she went to get it the 
 almonds seemed to be covered with a thick, brown, vel- 
 vety cloth. She looked at it a little closer and saw that 
 it was not cloth, but hundreds of ants. They had found 
 the oily almonds and were having a feast. She had 
 seen a good many ants running about, but she had never 
 seen them collect in such great numbers. 
 
 Mr. Earle told her that the ants are a great pest, and 
 that they sometimes undermine houses, and damage the 
 shingles so that people are forced to use for their roofs 
 slate or iron, into which the ants cannot bore. The ants 
 in Hawaii are not as mischievous as the ants in Africa 
 that march across the country in millions, eating every- 
 thing in their way, and driving the people from their 
 houses. They do not, like the ants in Australia and 
 Africa, build great houses, shaped like sugar loaves ; but 
 they dig and burrow, destroying the roots of plants and 
 trees. 
 
 While she was at Waikiki, Alice noticed a little 
 heap of dust under the door leading into the drawing- 
 room. It was dust that had been made by the car- 
 penter bee, which bores into wood, ruining not only 
 doors and windows, but chairs and tables, and all kinds 
 
119 
 
 of furniture. It does not hurt the outside, but it bur- 
 rows into the wood, where it cannot be seen, and hollows 
 it out until it is little more than a thin shell. 
 
 Fortunately, the carpenter bee does not often come 
 into the house. It has not always lived in the Hawaiian 
 Islands, but, like many other insects, has been brought 
 there from abroad. It looks very much like the bumble- 
 bee, except that it is a dark steel-blue, almost black ; 
 and it darts about very quickly. It does not often sting, 
 but causes a great deal of damage. It was brought to 
 the Islands, first, in lumber that had been sent in ships 
 from Oregon for building houses. 
 
 At another time Alice saw running across the floor in 
 her bedroom a hairy spider, with spreading legs that 
 were fully three inches long. It crept into a hole and 
 hid; but she would not have killed it, even if it had 
 not run away, for she knew that it was perfectly harm- 
 less. It was far more frightened at the sight of her, 
 than she was by it. 
 
 There were centipedes also, — long, ugly insects, with 
 a great many short legs, though not so many as a hun- 
 dred, as the name suggests. 
 
 The sting of the centipede is in the end of the tail. 
 People are not often stung by centipedes, and the few 
 who are stung usually recover. Stories to the contrary 
 are not true. 
 
 There were mosquitoes by the thousands. They came 
 in great clouds on warm, still evenings, and they stung 
 Alice's hands and face until they were covered with little 
 scarlet spots. The people who live in Honolulu become 
 used to them, and are not much annoyed by them. 
 
I20 
 
 All the beds are hung with long curtains of net, without 
 which no one could sleep. The first mosquito was 
 brought to Hawaii in the water casks of an English 
 ship, the Wellington, that had sailed to the Hawaiian 
 Islands from Mexico. Mosquitoes cannot fly in a 
 strong wind, and are not so troublesome when the 
 trade winds are blowing, nor are they so active in the 
 high lands, where it is cooler. There are not so many at 
 Hilo as at Honolulu, where they are attracted by the 
 wet rice fields and the Chinese gardens with their canals, 
 in which the eggs of the mosquitoes are hatched. 
 
 The people in Honolulu use Persian insect powder, 
 which numbs the mosquitoes. They fall to the ground, 
 and are then swept up and destroyed. When the 
 people sit upon their verandas they switch the mos- 
 quitoes with a queer little switch made of long strands 
 of horsehair, with a short handle of bone. These 
 switches are brought from China, where they are used 
 for the same purpose. 
 
 Birds of several kinds and frogs have been brought 
 to Hawaii, in the hope that they might prey upon the 
 mosquitoes. 
 
 One of the missionaries described the night when the 
 mosquitoes first appeared in Honolulu. They came in 
 great clouds. The Hawaiians did not know what they 
 were, and were very much troubled by their sharp stings. 
 No one could sleep. Half the night the missionary sat 
 up fanning his wife and children so that they could 
 rest, and they then fanned him and drove away the insects 
 while he slept until morning. They did this until they 
 were able to send to China for nets. 
 
121 
 
 At one time, all the roses in Honolulu were eaten up 
 by a tiny black beetle, so small that it could hardly be 
 seen. It came in plants that had been brought from 
 Japan. It ate not only the flowers but the leaves also, 
 and it killed the bushes. No roses could be raised, 
 and the people were told that if the beetle was not de- 
 stroyed, it would eat other plants and shrubs when the 
 
 ..^^^ 
 
 '-■W^.x 
 
 mf^mmm. 
 
 Rice Fields 
 
 rose bushes were gone. It could not be caught, because 
 it came out only at night when it was dark, and hid in 
 the ground during the day. Every precaution was 
 taken to keep the pest from spreading, no plants from 
 Oahu being received on the other islands. At last 
 means were found for killing the little beetle, so that 
 now people again have roses blooming in their gardens. 
 After the trouble with the rose beetle strict laws were 
 passed forbidding any one to bring plants ashore until 
 
122 
 
 they had been kept in a safe place for a time long 
 enough to make certain that they contained no insects 
 dangerous as a pest. 
 
 XX. CAPTAIN VANCOUVER 
 
 IN the year 1792, thirteen years after Captain Cook 
 had visited the Islands, another EngHshman, Captain 
 George Vancouver, arrived with two ships, the Discov- 
 ery and the Chatham. 
 
 He was a good man, and seeing that firearms caused 
 disorder among the Hawaiians, he refused to sell them. 
 Instead, he gave them many different kinds of trees, 
 plants, and vines, and the seeds of foreign vegetables, 
 
 Vancouver left for California, but returned in 1793 
 with a present of cattle for Kamehameha I., whom he 
 then met for the first time. 
 
 The king went to visit the ship in great state, wear- 
 ing his feather mantle and helmet, and accompanied by 
 a fleet of eleven canoes. With him were his wife and 
 his favorite adviser John Young. 
 
 John Young was an American sailor who had come 
 to the Islands three years before. His captain had 
 treated the natives with great cruelty, and in revenge 
 all the sailors found on shore were massacred, except 
 John Young and Isaac Davis, who were detained as 
 prisoners, until the American vessel left. 
 
 They were then kindly treated and raised to the rank 
 of chiefs, but were forbidden to leave the Islands. After 
 a while they became so attached to the country that they 
 
123 
 
 did not wish to leave, and they Hved in the Islands for 
 the rest of their lives. 
 
 They proved themselves worthy of the king's kind- 
 ness, gave him good advice, and taught the Hawaiians 
 many useful arts. 
 
 John Young spoke to Captain Vancouver and told 
 the king what he said in reply, and soon they were all 
 on good terms. The king gave Vancouver many valu- 
 able presents. Among them were four helmets of 
 costly yellow feathers ; ninety of the fattest and larg- 
 est swine that could be found, and great quantities of 
 bananas and mangoes and other fruit. In return Van- 
 couver gave the king five cows and three sheep — all 
 the animals he had left. 
 
 Vancouver and Kamehameha became great friends. 
 The king very soon found that Vancouver did not want 
 to cheat him, or take the country from him, and he 
 entertained him in every way to please and amuse him. 
 He had a sham battle between the best of his warriors, 
 and he made them show the Englishman how far they 
 were able to throw their spears and the stones from 
 their slings. 
 
 Vancouver in return showed the king over his ship, 
 and, in the evening, he gave a grand display of fire- 
 works. This was a fine sight, and the king was delighted 
 with it. 
 
 Vancouver made three visits, and each time brought 
 with him sheep, goats, and cattle, as presents to the 
 king. The last time he came his seamen helped Kame- 
 hameha build the first ship he had ever owned. Before 
 this, the king went from island to island in a canoe. 
 
124 
 
 It was finer and larger than the ordinary canoes, but 
 still it was not so good as the new ship, of which Kame- 
 hameha was very proud, and which he named the Bri- 
 tannia, in honor of Great Britain, the country from which 
 Captain Vancouver had come. 
 
 It was Vancouver who first spoke to Kamehameha 
 about God, and he also^ told him that the tabus were 
 foolish and cruel, and that the priests taught falsehoods 
 which did the Hawaiians a great deal of harm. Kame- 
 hameha knew that Vancouver was a good, wise man, 
 and all this made a deep impression upon him. 
 
 Vancouver told Kamehameha that when he went 
 back to his own country he would ask the EngHsh king 
 to send some one to the Hawaiian Islands to teach the 
 Christian religion. Mr. Ellis was the man chosen for 
 this work, but by the time he arrived King Kameha- 
 meha I. was dead. 
 
 XXI. THE FIRST MISSIONARIES 
 
 WHILE Alice was in Honolulu she heard much 
 about the missionaries. Nearly all the schools 
 have been founded by them, and they have done much 
 to improve the laws of the country. 
 
 The first missionaries were from New England, and 
 this is how it came about : 
 
 At a very early date ships from New England visited 
 the Hawaiian Islands. Their crews traded with the 
 natives, giving them furniture, guns, and clothing, in 
 exchange for sandalwood. Later they came into the 
 
125 
 
 harbor at Honolulu only to get water and fresh supplies 
 of food. Then they went on their voyage to the colder 
 regions to fish for whales. 
 
 The Hawaiians from the first were eager to embark 
 on such voyages, and they proved themselves good 
 sailors, although the change from their warm climate 
 to that of the cold regions they visited was very great. 
 It was in this way that the New England people first 
 learned about the Hawaiians. 
 
 Nearly a century ago, several young Hawaiians were 
 taken to the United States, and among them a youth 
 named 0-bo-o-ki'ah. He was very clever, and those 
 who met him became interested in him, and begged 
 him to stay in the United States to obtain an education 
 and then to return to the Islands to teach the Hawai- 
 ians. Obookiah and four of his friends remained. 
 They attended a school in Cornwall, Connecticut, and 
 learned very rapidly. Obookiah himself, however, never 
 returned to his home. He died before he had finished 
 his studies. 
 
 In the year before Obookiah died, a number of Amer- 
 icans sailed for the Hawaiian Islands in a ship called the 
 Thaddetis. There were two clergymen with their wives, 
 five teachers, and three of the Hawaiians, who had been 
 at school with Obookiah. Their names were Ka-nu'i, 
 Ho'pu, and Ho-no-li'i. It was necessary for them to 
 accompany the Americans, who could not speak or 
 understand the language of the Hawaiians. 
 
 It was in the year 1819 that these men — the first 
 missionaries — sailed from Boston to Hawaii. We can 
 realize how long ago this was when we remember that 
 
126 
 
 at that time there were hardly any people living in the 
 great Western states. Chicago was but a cluster of log 
 houses. There were no railways, no telegraph or tele- 
 phone. People traveled in stagecoaches, or on horse- 
 back, and where there are now towns and cities, the 
 Indians hunted and made their camps. It was many 
 years before people went to California, across the 
 plains, to hunt for gold. 
 
 There were no steamships then, and men crossed the 
 ocean in saiHng vessels. In those days it took many 
 months to make the voyage to Hawaii. The vessel 
 had to sail down the eastern coast of our own country 
 and South America, through the Straits of Magellan, 
 and across the Pacific. 
 
 It would have taken a great while, even if the ship 
 had gone straight on her course, but this rarely hap- 
 pened. Sometimes the wind was in the wrong direc- 
 tion, and blew the ship out of her course; sometimes 
 it died entirely away, and then the ship stood perfectly 
 still — becalmed. At such a time it was apt to be very 
 hot, and there was no shelter anywhere except in the 
 shadow of the sails. Often there were terrible storms 
 — especially near the Straits of Magellan. 
 
 The ships were crowded and uncomfortable ; and the 
 passengers often had to cook their own food. This 
 made the voyage very hard for the wives of the mis- 
 sionaries. 
 
 The Thaddeus did not sail to Honolulu, which was 
 then only a village of grass huts, but first touched at 
 Ko-ha'la, a district in the northwestern part of the island 
 of Hawaii. One of the officers went ashore and came 
 
127 
 
 back with the news that the great Kamehameha was dead, 
 and that his son had been made king. The tabus had 
 been broken, and the people, having given up their idols 
 and burned the temples, were without a religion. There 
 was peace everywhere. 
 
 The people in New England from time to time re- 
 ceived news of the Hawaiian Islands from the returning 
 sailors, but the party on the Thaddeus now learned for 
 
 Sailing toward Hawaii 
 
 the first time of the death of Kamehameha, and of the 
 burning of the temples and idols. The last fact was 
 good news for the missionaries, for it was sure to make 
 much easier the work which they hoped to do. They 
 now set sail for Kai-lu'a, a village in Hawaii, where the 
 new king lived. 
 
 When they reached Kailua two of the missionaries, 
 Mr. Bingham and Mr. Thurston, went on shore, with 
 Hopu as a guide. The king, Kamehameha II., received 
 them kindly, when they told him that they had come to 
 
128 
 
 teach the people a new religion, and that they hoped 
 he would let them live in the Islands. He did not 
 answer them at once, but took time to think the matter 
 over. He accepted an invitation to go on board the 
 Thaddeus to dine with them and their wives. One of 
 the chiefs was dressed in European clothes which he 
 
 had obtained from 
 one of the sailors, 
 but the king wore 
 a long mantle of 
 green silk, a neck- 
 lace of beads, and 
 a wreath of yellow 
 feathers on his 
 head. 
 
 When the king 
 came on board 
 the Thaddeus he 
 brought his family 
 with him. "This he 
 would not have 
 done if he had not 
 been favorably impressed by the missionaries and felt 
 sure that they intended no harm. 
 
 He waited a week before giving his answer, and dur- 
 ing that time he consulted with John Young. Mr. 
 Young told him the missionaries had come only to do 
 good, so the king told them they might live in the 
 Islands for one year. Four of them, Mr. and Mrs. 
 Thurston and Mr. and Mrs. Holman, were to stay at 
 Kailua, and the rest were to go to Honolulu. They 
 
 Mr. Bingham 
 
129 
 
 were given a small grass hut to live in, and the king 
 treated them very kindly. 
 
 J>»4c 
 
 XXII. MORE ABOUT THE MISSIONARIES 
 
 THE missionaries who went to Honolulu did not 
 fare so well as those who staid at Kailua with 
 the king. The king's real 
 name was Li-ho-li'ho, but 
 he was called Kamehameha 
 II. He succeeded the great 
 Kamehameha, but only 
 reigned five years. Both 
 he and his wife, Emma, 
 died of measles while on 
 a visit to England. The 
 bodies of the king and 
 queen were brought back 
 from England in splendid 
 coffins covered with crimson 
 velvet, and a great funeral 
 was held, which lasted for 
 several weeks. 
 
 The governor of Oahu at that time was a chief named 
 Boki, of whom we shall learn more in another story, 
 and neither he nor his wife Liliha wished to befriend 
 the Americans. They did not wish to change their 
 way of living, and would have liked to send the mis- 
 sionaries away, but did not dare to do so against the 
 
 KROUT'S HAWAII — 9 
 
 Kamehameha II. 
 
130 
 
 king's command. So they made them as uncomfort- 
 able as they could, and were as rude as they dared 
 to be, thinking that this would induce the missiona- 
 ries to leave. 
 
 Honolulu was not then as it is now. In place of 
 the beautiful gardens and parks now found there, and 
 the trees and plants which have been brought from 
 nearly all the warm countries in the world, there 
 were only a few cocoanut trees, and the kou and the 
 koa and the kukui in the cooler lands on the mountain 
 slopes. Around Honolulu there were dry, bare plains, 
 where the dust rose in clouds, for the trade winds blew 
 then, just as they do now. 
 
 Boki and Liliha allowed Mr. Bingham, the missionary 
 who had come to Honolulu, to build his grass hut on 
 one of these dusty plains, where there was neither water 
 nor wood for several miles beyond. Mr. Ruggles and 
 Mr. Whitney went to Kauai, where they had been in- 
 vited by the king. 
 
 In the fall, Kamehameha II. left Kailua and came 
 to Honolulu with his family and court, and with Mr. 
 and Mrs. Thurston. 
 
 Although the Hawaiians had given up their idols, 
 and very few of them were as much ■ afraid of their 
 priests as they had been, the missionaries did not find 
 it easy to teach them, for people cannot give up at 
 once the belief taught them by their fathers. They 
 cannot help being a little afraid of the things that 
 they have been taught to fear as harmful, and wrong 
 thinking of this sort is often accompanied by bad con- 
 duct. But considering how they had been deceived by 
 
131 
 
 their priests, and how little they knew of what was 
 really right, there were many of the Hawaiians who 
 were good and noble. This was especially true of the 
 women, although the laws oppressed them very cruelly. 
 
 The Hawaiians had been taught not to value human 
 life, for the kings or chiefs could put to death any one 
 who displeased them, or any one that the priest selected 
 for sacrifice. It was hard to make them understand 
 how wicked and cruel this was. Many still believed 
 secretly in the old religion. They told the people who 
 wished to do as the missionaries advised, that their own 
 priests could put evil spells upon them, and make their 
 Hawaiian gods punish them. 
 
 The chiefs despised all that were not of their own 
 rank, but they respected the missionaries, because they 
 were white men, and because they were educated. Lit- 
 tle as they themselves knew, the Hawaiians had great 
 respect for learning in others. This was why they 
 feared and obeyed their priests who pretended to know 
 a great deal that no one else could find out. 
 
 The missionaries taught the people the Christian 
 religion, and they opened schools to teach them to 
 read and write. 
 
 The first schoolhouse was a large grass hut, and the 
 pupils were called together, not by ringing a bell, but 
 by blowing on a conch shell, which made a very loud 
 sound that could be heard at a great distance. 
 
 The pupils were of all ages. Besides the children 
 there were men and women in the bloom of youth and 
 others who were old and gray. It was not necessary to 
 force them to go to school, for they were all very 
 
132 
 
 anxious to learn. When the conch shell sounded 
 they came pouring out of their huts to the grass 
 schoolhouse. There were so many pupils that they 
 could not all be taught at once. They had to be 
 divided into classes, and some came at one hour, and 
 some at another. They had no desks or seats, but 
 sat on mats, on the ground, dressed in their mantles 
 of red, blue, and green tapa, and they wore wreaths 
 
 ta- 
 
 ^ .fS J 
 
 
 
 
 ^iSj^RKS^t^ %JWH8B^^^^^^H| 
 
 Hawaiian Pupils 
 
 of flowers on their heads and around their necks, just 
 as they do to-day. 
 
 The Hawaiians who came to the missionary schools 
 were so anxious to be taught that they carried about 
 with them everywhere the little books that the mission- 
 aries made for them. They had never before had a 
 written language. There are not so many sounds in the 
 Hawaiian language as in our own, and the alphabet 
 which the missionaries made had but twelve letters. 
 
 Two years after they came, the missionaries set up 
 
133' 
 
 a printing press, and printed a spelling book of eight 
 
 pages in Hawaiian words, but with letters like our own. 
 
 An author who has written an interesting book about 
 
 the old Hawaiians says the people were so eager to 
 
 learn the new and wonderful art of reading and writing 
 
 that, at one time, nearly the whole population went to 
 
 school. With this 
 
 great love for 
 
 learning, it is not 
 
 surprising that 
 
 now there are few 
 
 people in Hawaii 
 
 who cannot read 
 
 and write. The 
 
 people are very 
 
 proud of this fact, 
 
 as indeed they 
 
 have a right to 
 
 be. 
 
 When the year 
 the king had 
 granted to the 
 missionaries had 
 
 expired, he found that they had been so useful to his 
 people that he was glad to have them stay as long as 
 they pleased. When the American missionaries had 
 been in Honolulu two years, the English missionary, 
 whom Vancouver had promised to send, reached the 
 Islands. His name was William Ellis, and he and the 
 Americans became great friends and worked together 
 very peaceably. Their object was the same, — to be 
 
134 
 
 helpful to the people and teach them to live better lives ; 
 and each did what he could to help the other. 
 
 Since the American missionaries welcomed Mr. Ellis 
 and his wife, the Hawaiitins did so Hkewise, for they 
 had great respect for their teachers. But when they 
 came to know Mr. Ellis, they loved him for his own 
 
 sake. He did not 
 remain long in 
 Hawaii. His wife 
 became very ill, 
 and he had to re- 
 turn to England 
 for her health. 
 During his stay he 
 went all over the 
 Islands with the 
 Americans and 
 wrote a long ac- 
 count of what he 
 saw. This was 
 published, and the 
 people in England 
 thus learned a 
 great deal about the country. He also translated and 
 published some of the Hawaiian poetry. 
 
 The Hawaiians are very fond of poetry; but their 
 verse is not like ours. It is musical, but usually 
 mournful. Before they knew how to write, they com- 
 mitted their poetry to memory. Parents taught their 
 children and grandchildren, and in this way it was 
 preserved. Kapiolani and other Hawaiian queens 
 
 Mrs. Ellis 
 
135 
 
 were poets. Their poems, after they became Chris- 
 tians, were much like the psalms in the Bible. This is 
 one of the poems which Mr. Ellis translated. It was 
 composed at the time of the death of a great chief, and 
 is called a dirge : 
 
 " Alas ! alas ! dead is my chief, 
 Dead is my lord and my friend. 
 My friend in the season of famine, 
 My friend in the time of drought, 
 My friend in my poverty, 
 My friend in the rain and the wind. 
 My friend in the heat and the sun, 
 My friend in the cold from the mountain, 
 My friend in the storm, 
 My friend in the calm, 
 My friend in the eight seas. 
 Alas! alas! gone is my friend 
 And no more will return." 
 
 3j»iC 
 
 XXIII. THE OLD MISSION HOUSE 
 
 NOT far from the stone church in Honolulu was 
 an old, weather-beaten frame house. It was 
 two stories high, with three windows above and three 
 below. Around the front door was a little latticed 
 porch with several steps leading dowrr to the front 
 walk. Like all the older houses in Honolulu, it had 
 no chimney. There was something rather melancholy 
 about it, as if scores' of children had once lived there, 
 and grown up and moved away into homes of their 
 own, leaving the old house to strangers. Alice felt 
 sure it must have a history, and when she asked her 
 
136 
 
 mother about it, Mrs. Earle told her the following 
 story : 
 
 It was the first house that was ever built in Hono- 
 lulu. When the missionaries came to Honolulu, they 
 lived in grass houses, like those of the Hawaiians. 
 These houses were cool and comfortable in warm 
 weather, but they were not well lighted, and were not 
 divided into rooms, so that all the members of the 
 
 The Old Mission House 
 
 family, and sometimes several families, were crowded 
 together in one room. This was a great trial to the 
 men and women who had come straight from their 
 comfortable New England homes. 
 
 Many friends in Boston were interested in the mis- 
 sionaries, and pitied them for the hardships they had 
 to endure. They had already sent them clothes and 
 books and other useful things. But now they decided 
 to send them a house ! Of course, it was not a house 
 
137 
 
 put together, all ready to be occupied, because no 
 ship could have carried it. But it was the frame- 
 work, the sills, rafters, and shingles for the roof, the 
 weather-boarding, doors, and windows. All this was 
 very carefully packed and put down into the hold 
 of the ship. 
 
 No one ever dreamed that when the frame for the 
 house had been brought so far there would be any 
 further trouble. But something happened that no 
 one had expected. When the house arrived, the 
 king, Liholiho, or Kamehameha II., would not let 
 the missionaries put it up. Grass houses had been 
 good enough for his people, and he thought they 
 were good enough for the missionaries. He resented 
 the idea that the people in Boston considered grass 
 huts as unfit for their friends. So, when the mission- 
 aries asked whether they might put up the house, he 
 said : " My father never allowed a foreigner to build a 
 house in this country except for the king." 
 
 The missionaries were much disappointed and, after 
 a while, they again asked permission to put up their 
 house. But the king only refused more decidedly than 
 at first. Yet they did not give up hope, for they knew 
 by this time that he often changed his mind. So two 
 of them went, with their wives, to call upon him, and 
 for the third time he refused their petition. 
 
 But just as he was about to leave them, one of the 
 ladies went up to him and told him, as best she could, 
 — for she did not speak his language well — how 
 hard it was for people used to New England houses 
 to find comfort in the grass huts which lacked so many 
 
138 
 
 things they were accustomed to. She spoke so gently 
 yet so earnestly that the king saw in a flash how much 
 these women had given up, — comfortable homes, friends, 
 and pleasures, — and all for no other reason than to 
 make his people happier. Weak and intemperate as 
 the king was, he could not help seeing how much 
 better his people were since the coming of the mis- 
 sionaries, and how much easier it was to govern the 
 country. So- he answered that on his return from 
 Maui, where he was about to go on a visit, they 
 might put up their house. 
 
 But, even after the king had given his consent, the 
 missionaries were anxious lest he should again change 
 his mind. 
 
 The king and the chiefs were in the habit of com- 
 ing to the missionaries' homes as often as they liked. 
 They stayed to dine with them frequently; and the 
 women never knew how much food to prepare or 
 how many guests to expect. A few days before he 
 left for Maui, the king and several chiefs sat at the 
 missionaries' table, and he was reminded of his con-' 
 sent that the house should be built. Again he said, 
 "Yes, you may build,'* and after that they thought 
 the matter settled. 
 
 But there were many people in Honolulu who dis- 
 liked the missionaries. They liked to drink and gam- 
 ble with the king, and it annoyed them when he spent 
 his time with men and women who were not afraid 
 to tell him how wicked and harmful it was to lead 
 an intemperate life. These people now tried to per- 
 suade the king, that the missionaries were spies; that 
 
139 
 
 they did not mean to build a house, but a fort; and 
 that they intended to fill the cellar with guns and 
 powder and shot. 
 
 The king feared that this might be true. He him- 
 self had a fort on Punchbowl, the mountain back of 
 Honolulu ; and he directed that the cannon should be 
 turned so that it could be fired at the missionaries 
 
 Old Hawaiian Fort 
 
 the moment they began to carry their arms into the 
 cellar. But when, after waiting some time, the king 
 saw no sign of any such plot, he was at last con- 
 vinced that the missionaries wished him no harm, 
 and were as much his friends as they had ever 
 been. 
 
 When the house was finished, the three families of 
 missionaries in Honolulu moved into it, and they lived 
 under its roof for years. When they were settled 
 
140 
 
 and everything was in order, the king put on his 
 finest clothes and came with his family on a visit. 
 He went all over the house, upstairs and down- 
 stairs, and was greatly delighted with everything 
 he saw. At last, just before leaving, he said, ** I 
 wish the people in the United States would send me 
 a house three stories high ! " As he was king, he 
 thought his house ought to be at least one story 
 higher than that of the missionaries. 
 
 Mrs. Thurston, who was one of the first women to 
 live in the house, said that the board floors, the doors, 
 and the windows with glass in them, were considered 
 very wonderful by the Hawaiians, and the king was 
 especially pleased with the wall paper, which was pink, 
 with delicate gilt vines. 
 
 Besides the three families, the house was always 
 crowded with visitors : foreigners who visited the 
 Islands, the king and his family, and the chiefs and 
 their families. Often as many as fifty people stayed 
 for dinner, and it was necessary to set the table three 
 times for each meal. Fortunately, food was cheap, 
 and, such as it was, there was enough of it. The 
 king and the chiefs also sent the missionaries presents 
 of fruit, and taro, and pigs. But the missionaries' 
 wives had to do a good deal of the cooking. The 
 Hawaiian girls who lived with them were not of much 
 assistance. 
 
 When Mrs. Judd came, she said that the mission- 
 aries and their wives looked "very thin and care- 
 worn." And it was not much wonder, for the women 
 had to sew, and teach, and cook dinners for fifty 
 
141 
 
 guests several times a week. Mrs. Judd said that in 
 addition to all this, Mrs. Bingham had been forced 
 to make the king twelve shirts with ruffled bosoms 
 and a whole suit of broadcloth. 
 
 But this was not all the trouble that they had. 
 The water in the wells was salty, and their clothes 
 had to be taken to the streams to be washed. This 
 was done by pounding them with stones, which soon 
 wore them out. They would have worn out fast enough 
 without being pounded to pieces, and the missionaries 
 and their wives were sometimes at a loss to know 
 what to do. They patched and mended, and made 
 their clothes last as long as possible. But it was easier 
 to mend their clothes than their shoes, which also wore 
 out very quickly. 
 
 Five years after the missionaries finished the house, 
 it was attacked by some drunken sailors from an 
 American ship. 
 
 To save the people from becoming drunkards, the 
 missionaries had persuaded the regent to make a 
 law to punish severely any one who sold them liquor. 
 The captain of the ship wanted this law abolished. 
 It was while the king was still too young to reign 
 and Boki was governor of Oahu. Bad as he was, he 
 would not at first agree to this. Then the sailors 
 came ashore and attacked several of the houses. 
 They blamed the missionaries for the law ; and they 
 went to the mission house, as it was called, and did 
 much damage before they were driven off. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Bingham and their child would have 
 been badly hurt and perhaps killed, if the Hawaiian 
 
142 
 
 chiefs had not come to their rescue and defended 
 them very bravely. 
 
 Alice was more than ever interested in the old mission 
 house after she had heard this story, and she hoped 
 that the people of Honolulu would never allow it to 
 be torn down. 
 
 XXIV. THE STORY OF BOKI AND LILIHA 
 
 AFTER the death of Kamehameha H. his brother, 
 Kau-i'ke-a-o-u'li, was chosen king and called 
 Kamehameha HI. Ka-a-hu-ma'nu, widow of Kame- 
 hameha the Great, was appointed ku-hi'na nuH^ or 
 regent; that is, she was to rule until the young prince 
 was old enough to reign, and then she was to be his 
 adviser for life ; and she also had the power to veto 
 his acts. 
 
 Now there was a handsome young chief named Boki, 
 who was governor of Oahu, and because he was so 
 powerful, Kaahumanu unwisely placed the young king 
 in his care. But both Boki and his beautiful wife 
 Liliha were very wicked. They never became Chris- 
 tians, but obeyed the old priests, and they were idle and 
 extravagant. 
 
 Both Boki and his wife were opposed to the queen 
 regent, anr[ with other chiefs they plotted against the 
 young king and tried to get control of Hawaii. Every 
 day Kaahumanu had cause to regret her step in placing 
 the young king under the care of such guardians as Boki 
 and Liliha ; for instead of setting him a good example 
 
143 
 
 and leading him to a virtuous life, they surrounded him 
 with the most wicked men and led him to form many 
 bad habits. 
 
 Boki and Liliha. lived in such luxury and extrava- 
 gance -that soon they had used up all the sandalwood in 
 Hawaii, and none was left to pay the debts. A great 
 deal of trouble and misery followed. The people were 
 the greatest sufferers, and their condition grew from bad 
 to worse. Disorder prevailed, and it became necessary 
 to pass laws to punish theft, murder, gambling, and 
 drunkenness. Boki and Liliha did not like the laws, 
 and they refused to obey them. 
 
 But when all the sandalwood was gone, Boki himself 
 became poor, and when some one told him of an island 
 to the south where tons of sandalwood were waiting to 
 be gathered, all his friends' warnings could not keep 
 him home. Two of the king's brigs, the Kamehameha, 
 and the Beckett were fitted up, and with one hundred 
 and nine men, including many of his wicked companions, 
 he sailed from Oahu in search of wealth. 
 
 The Kameha^neha, on which Boki sailed, touched at 
 one island, where it staid two days, but that was the 
 last ever heard of it. After great suffering among the 
 crew, the Becket made her way back to Hawaii, and of 
 all those who had sailed with Boki but twenty returned. 
 
 During Boki's absence his wife Liliha ruled over 
 Oahu as governor. When she heard of her husband's 
 disappearance, she i*esolved to fill the fort with armed 
 men, so that she could keep the queen regent, Kaahu- 
 manu, from taking the little prince, or having any 
 authority over Oahu. 
 
144 
 
 But another great chief, Ki-nau', a woman who had 
 become a Christian, heard of the plot and revealed it to 
 the leading chiefs. As they did not want to fight 
 and shed blood, they urged Liliha's father to talk with 
 her. Among the Hawaiians, disobedience to parents 
 was the greatest of all crimes, and Liliha, bad as she 
 was, dared not refuse her father's demand that she 
 should give up the fort. 
 
 When the young prince became king, LiUha still had 
 much influence over him, and when at last Kaahumanu 
 died, everybody feared that Liliha would be chosen to 
 take her place. She herself, indeed, had every reason 
 to expect it. This would, however, have been a great 
 disaster to the country, for Liliha objected to all the 
 reforms. Her election would have meant the closing 
 of schools and churches, a return to all the barbarous 
 practices, and probably war. 
 
 The king appointed a day for an outdoor meeting of 
 his people, at -which he was to announce his decision. 
 Thousands came, — among them Kinau and her friends 
 and Liliha and her followers. 
 
 When the king arrived, Kinau saluted him and said 
 gravely, "We cannot war with the word of God be- 
 tween us." 
 
 It is not known what the king replied, but he made a 
 long speech in which he told the Hawaiians that he was 
 no longei* a prince, but their king, whose right it was to 
 rule. Then they waited, LiHha and her friends very 
 confident, and Kinau, and those who were with her, sad 
 and heavy-hearted. But the young king, after pausing 
 a moment, called out in a clear voice, " Know, all ye 
 
145 
 
 people, that I, the king, hereby appoint Kinau as 
 kuhina nui." 
 
 Then a shout of joy went up from the multitude, 
 while Liliha and her disappointed followers turned 
 away in anger, for they knew that now their power was 
 at an end. The young king might still be friendly with 
 them, but, like so many of his people, he was weak and 
 indolent, and content to leave the ruling of the kingdom 
 to Kinau. As Kinau was an able woman, fit to rule 
 and anxious for the good of her people, the choice was 
 a wise one. 
 
 When asked why he had chosen Kinau as regent, the 
 king answered simply, " Very strong is the kingdom of 
 God." 
 
 XXV. ''THE LIFE OF THE LAND" 
 
 ALICE often thought of this story. Since the time 
 of Boki and Liliha (about 1830) great changes 
 have taken place in Honolulu. It has become a city ; 
 there are no more grass houses, and the Hawaiians use 
 silver money. Alice herself had handled many of these 
 coins. They were the size of American silver dollars, 
 half dollars, twenty-five-cent pieces, and ten-cent pieces. 
 On each coin was the head of King Kalakaua, in whose 
 reign (1874-189 1 ) the money was first made. Around 
 the edge of the coin were the words in Hawaiian : ''U^a 
 mail ke e^a ka ai'na i ka pohto,'' which mean, "The 
 life of the land is perpetuated by righteousness." Alice, 
 understood this motto better after she had heard the fol- 
 lowing story: 
 
 KROUT'S HAWAII — 10 
 
146 
 
 After Liliha was sent away in disgrace, arid Kinau 
 became the regent, the country did not immediately 
 grow better. Indeed, for a time, it seemed to grow 
 worse. The people had seen so much wickedness, and 
 had grown so used to drinking and gambling, that it 
 was no easy matter to get rid of their bad habits. 
 
 There lived in Honolulu, at that time, an English- 
 man named Captain Richard Charlton, who was very 
 friendly with Liliha, ^and, like her, objected to the mis- 
 sionaries and their schools and churches. He claimed 
 a large tract of land that belonged to the children of a 
 chief. This he declared the king had given to him. 
 For thirteen years he had said nothing of his claim, 
 and during that time many houses had been built on 
 the land, and it had greatly increased in value. The 
 king, Kamehameha HI., denied that he had ever given 
 the Englishman the land, since it had never been his to 
 give, and a long quarrel followed, which, it seemed for 
 a while, would never be settled. 
 
 By this time the Catholics in France had sent their 
 priests out to the Hawaiian Islands to found churches 
 and schools. Both the king and Kinau were unfriendly 
 to the priests, because they reminded them of the native 
 priests who had formerly ruled the Islands with selfish- 
 ness and cruelty. 
 
 Captain Charlton, who was the English consul, 
 helped the French priests, not from kindly feeling 
 toward them, but simply because he knew this would 
 displease Kinau. It must be confessed that in this 
 matter of persecuting the priests Kinau was unjust, and 
 nothing that the missionaries could say or do altered 
 
147 
 
 her purpose to keep her subjects from becoming Catho- 
 lics. She made the Catholics work on the roads, and 
 even shut them up in prison. 
 
 Captain Charlton became more and more friendly 
 with Liliha, and this made matters worse. 
 
 When the quarrel grew so fierce -that the king could 
 do nothing more, he sent an American, Mr. Richards, 
 to the United States, England, and France to ask 
 those countries to help him. For by this time, Captain 
 Charlton had gone so far as to say that the Hawaiian 
 Islands really belonged to England. 
 
 An English gentleman, Sir George Simpson, who 
 was a friend of the king, and a Hawaiian, Ha-a-li-li'o, 
 the king's secretary, went with Mr. Richards on his 
 errand for the king. 
 
 They were told in Washington that our country 
 would defend the king against Charlton, and the 
 queen also made it known that England did not want 
 the Islands. France, at that time, was not quite so 
 friendly. 
 
 When Captain Charlton learned that Mr. Richards 
 had gone to England, he followed him. He went by 
 the way of Mexico, where he met Lord George Paulet, 
 an English naval officer who was in one of the ports 
 with his ship, the Carysfort. 
 
 Lord Paulet was a cousin of Mr. Alexander Simpson, 
 whom Captain Charlton had made consul, in his place, 
 while he was gone. Captain Charlton persuaded Cap- 
 tain Paulet that the Hawaiian Islands belonged to Eng- 
 land, and Captain Paulet determined to claim them for 
 the queen. 
 
148 
 
 The king had a very wise friend, fortunately, who 
 knew just what to do, and who gladly helped him in his 
 great trouble. This was Dr. Judd, who, with his wife, 
 had gone out to Honolulu, many years before, as a mis- 
 sionary and physician. Dr. Judd was as brave as he 
 was wise. When the Carysfort came into the harbor 
 of Honolulu, Lord Paulet sent for the king to come 
 
 to him, instead of calling 
 upon the king, as it was 
 his place to do. 
 
 The king did not go, 
 but sent Dr. Judd to rep- 
 resent him. Lord Paulet 
 would not talk with Dr. 
 Judd. He ordered the 
 king to give up the land 
 that Charlton had claimed, 
 and made other arbitrary 
 demands. The ship car- 
 ried cannon and powder 
 and balls, and Lord Paulet 
 told the king if he did not obey him, he would fire 
 upon the town. 
 
 Dr. Judd knew that the king had few guns and not 
 many soldiers, and was no match for Lord Paulet. If 
 the cannon were fired, a great many helpless people 
 would be wounded and killed. More than this, he knew 
 that when Queen Victoria should hear what Lord Paulet 
 had done, she would take the king's part. So Dr. Judd, 
 after careful consideration, advised the king to yield for 
 the time being to Lord Paulet, and to seek redress from 
 
 Kamehameha III. 
 
149 
 
 the queen. The king, acting on this advice, agreed to 
 surrender the Islands under protest, and appeal to the 
 queen for justice. 
 
 Lord Paulet came ashore, took down the Hawaiian 
 flag, and put the English flag in its place ; but when the 
 poor, helpless king went on board the Caiysfort to visit 
 him. Lord Paulet made so many further insolent de- 
 mands, that at last the king said, " I will not die piece- 
 meal ; they may cut off my head at once. I will give 
 no more." 
 
 Then the king, worn out with sorrow and anxiety, 
 departed to the island of Maui. Dr. Judd stayed in 
 Honolulu, and he took all the king's important papers 
 and hid them in the royal tomb. He knew that no one 
 would ever think of looking for them in such a gloomy 
 place. Dr. Judd took it upon himself to write to Queen 
 Victoria and to the President of the United States in 
 behalf of the king ; and to keep the matter secret, he 
 hid himself in the tomb and used one of the coffins for 
 his writing table. 
 
 When Queen Victoria received the letter telling of 
 Lord Paulet's doings, she was very angry. Immediately 
 she sent to Honolulu an English ship, the DiLblin, com- 
 manded by Admiral Thomas, a brave English officer, 
 who had orders to set matters right. 
 
 The king returned from Maui, and Admiral Thomas 
 went ashore to see him, and treated him with the 
 greatest respect. When he told the king that he was 
 sent by Queen Victoria to take down the English flag 
 and put back the Hawaiian flag, both king and people 
 were filled with joy and gratitude. The next day 
 
ISO 
 
 Monday, July 31, 1843, was chosen for the flag 
 raising. 
 
 It was a beautiful, sunny day, without a cloud in the 
 sky. The king and all the people gathered in an open 
 plain, around the flagstaff. With the king and the 
 premier and the court were the men and officers from 
 the three English ships then in the harbor, the Dublin, 
 the Hazard, and the Cajysfort. When the people had 
 all assembled, and the English sailors were drawn up 
 in line, the Hawaiian flag was raised. As it shook 
 itself free, and its white and crimson bars floated before 
 the breeze, the cannon were fired, and there was great 
 rejoicing. Lord Paulet, however, felt deeply mortified 
 to see the flag, which he had taken so much trouble to 
 pull down, put back in its place by order of his queen. 
 
 In the afternoon a thanksgiving service was held in 
 the stone church. The king made a speech, urging the 
 people to live better lives, and to try to be worthy of 
 the country so mercifully restored to them. He ended 
 his speech with the words, ^'■JJa man ke ea ka aina i ka 
 pofio,'' and these words were later adopted as the national 
 motto and printed on all the coins. 
 
 The rest of the day was spent in feasting and singing. 
 A wonderful dinner, which Mrs. Judd helped prepare, was 
 served to the English officers. Admiral Thomas stayed 
 in Honolulu for some time, helping the king to restore 
 order and break up the evil practices which prevailed. 
 
 The 31st of July is called Restoration Day in the 
 Islands, and was for many years celebrated like the 
 Fourth of July with us. The plain where the flag was 
 raised is now a beautiful garden set in palms and flower- 
 
151 
 
 ing shrubs and plants. It is called Thomas Square, in 
 honor of the English admiral. 
 
 Alice often drove through it with her father and 
 mother, and, as she did so, she tried to imagine how it 
 had looked on the day when the Hawaiian flag was 
 raised and the Islands were given back to the king. 
 
 XXVI. MRS. JUDD 
 
 ALICE thought the Hawaiian flag with its three 
 crosses very much like the English flag. Some 
 one told her that the Hawaiian flag had been patterned 
 after the English flag, and that the first one had been 
 made by Mrs. Judd. She was the wife of Dr. Judd, 
 who was such a good friend to the king when Lord Paulet 
 came to Honolulu in the Carysfort. Dr. Judd was one 
 of the medical missionaries. He did not come out to 
 the Hawaiian Islands until some time after the other 
 missionaries, when the schools and churches were al- 
 ready opened. He and Mrs. Judd came from Boston 
 in a sailing vessel, like that in which the first mis- 
 sionaries had made the voyage. 
 
 The ship was not comfortable, and the officers were 
 not very obliging, and they endured many hardships. 
 Mrs. Judd had to cook and mend and do much hard 
 work. She related all this in an interesting book, from 
 which Mrs. Earle often read to Alice. 
 
 After Mrs. Judd and her husband had been at sea for 
 
152 
 
 several months they anchored, one bright Sunday morn- 
 ing, in the harbor of Honolulu. 
 
 Mrs. Judd described the town as "a mass of brown 
 huts, looking like so many haystacks in the country ; 
 not one white cottage, .no church spire, not a garden 
 nor a tree to be seen, save the grove of cocoanuts." 
 
 In the center of the village was one grass hut, much 
 larger than the others. Toward this, great crowds of 
 
 people were hurry- 
 ing; there seemed 
 to be thousands of 
 them, dressed in 
 their mantles of 
 bright colors. 
 
 When Dr. and 
 Mrs. Judd went 
 ashore they were 
 welcomed by the 
 missionaries who 
 were already there. 
 The queen also 
 treated them kindly 
 and gave them a 
 grass house to live in. The other missionaries had 
 been overworked and were glad of their help, which 
 they greatly needed. 
 
 Mrs. Judd gave a very amusing account of the queen 
 regent, Kinau, as she first saw her. She was very large 
 and fat. She wore a bright silk dress, and a bonnet 
 with gay feathers in it. She rode in a blue cart, sit- 
 ting with her feet swinging down at the back of the 
 
 Mrs. Judd 
 
153 
 
 cart. She was very heavy, and the cart was drawn by 
 twenty men. 
 
 Kinau was very kind to the missionaries and their 
 wives. At one time she sent one of the ladies a rich 
 silk dress of brilliant colors. The missionary's wife 
 did not want it and sent it back, but the queen regent 
 sent another, still more showy. This also was refused, 
 because it was " too fine for the wife of a missionary." 
 Then Kinau sent still another, of rich black silk, which 
 the lady could not refuse. 
 
 The foreigners were supposed to obey the queen 
 regent, the king, and the chiefs, who were sometimes 
 very exacting. At times the missionaries and their 
 wives found it impossible to do just what the rulers 
 wished ; but the Americans were so much respected 
 that even the king did not often try to force them to 
 obedience. 
 
 The wives of the missionaries aided them in the 
 schools, and they also had to take into their homes 
 and teach the young children of the king and the chiefs. 
 
 While the Hawaiians were very friendly and generous 
 with each other, — almost like one great family, — 
 they were not much attached to their children. The 
 mothers were fond of visiting and dancing and bathing, 
 and they did not like the care of young children. So 
 they often gave them away, or, what was worse, put them 
 to death. They had never been taught that this was 
 a great crime. One woman, after she had become a 
 Christian, told Mrs. Judd that she had put to death eight 
 of her little children as soon as they were born. She 
 had buried them under the floor of her hut. She had 
 
154 
 
 just learned what a cruel and wicked thing this was, 
 and she shed tears as she made her confession. 
 
 As you might imagine, Mrs. Judd had very little time 
 to rest. The queen regent, especially, visited her a 
 great deal, and sent for her often to come to her house. 
 
 At one time she was ordered to make the king a coat. 
 She had never learned how to make coats, so she was 
 a good deal puzzled. But she was a clever woman, and 
 knew how necessary it was not to offend the king, for 
 fear that he might close the schools and forbid the 
 missionaries to teach. Yet she had not even a pattern. 
 After thinking about it a great deal, she took an old 
 coat of her husband's to pieces, and from this she cut 
 out one for the king. The king himself had bought from 
 a trader some fine cloth which he sent her to make up. 
 As the king was not of the same size or figure as 
 Dr. Judd, the coat did not fit ; it was too tight in some 
 places and too loose in others. But, as it was the first 
 coat he had ever had, the king did not notice this, and 
 he was very proud of it. 
 
 When Dr. Judd and his wife came to the Islands, the 
 king was a little boy. When he grew up and governed 
 the country, they were both very good to him. They 
 lived for the rest of their lives in Honolulu. 
 
 Once measles broke out among the people. A great 
 many died simply because they would not take the 
 medicine the EngHsh and American physicians wished 
 to give them. They called in their own doctors, who 
 knew nothing about the disease, and, when they were 
 burning with fever, they bathed in the cold surf. Dr. 
 and Mrs. Judd visited the Hawaiians when they were 
 
155 
 
 ill, and did whatever they could to help them. When 
 later the smallpox broke out Dr. Judd had the greatest 
 difficulty in persuading the people to be vaccinated, 
 especially as many of those who were vaccinated never- 
 theless caught the disease and died. 
 
 The king told Dr. Judd to feel free to do whatever 
 he thought best, and he had two other physicians to 
 help him. 
 
 Nearly three thousand people died, and many of the 
 natives blamed Dr. Judd for the death of their friends, 
 which their own doctors told them was the result of 
 vaccination. It was a long time before Dr. Judd could 
 regain their confidence. With the measles and small- 
 pox, nearly eleven thousand people had died in five 
 years. 
 
 When Dr. Judd hid himself and King Kamehameha's 
 papers in the royal tomb, Mrs. Judd showed her bravery 
 and self-control. For when the British officers could 
 not find Dr. Judd, or the important papers which they 
 wanted, they came to her house and tried to force her 
 to tell where her husband was ; but she steadfastly re- 
 fused to reveal the secret. 
 
 One of Mrs. Judd's hardest tasks was to arrange the 
 dinner for Admiral Thomas. This gave the wives of 
 the missionaries a great deal of anxiety. The king was 
 very intemperate, and they had seen what great evils 
 drinking had caused among the Hawaiians. Neither 
 the missionaries nor their families used wine, because 
 they did not wish to set a bad example to the king and 
 the people. 
 
 The English officers were used to drinking wine. 
 
156 
 
 They always expected to have it offered them at dinner ; 
 especially at such a dinner as this was to be. Mrs. Judd 
 knew that the officers would be very much disappointed,' 
 but she and the wives of the other missionaries decided 
 that, on account of the king, there should be no wine. 
 It was a wonderful dinner, with beef and ham, fish and 
 poultry, and all manner of cakes, puddings, and fruit. 
 They had tea and coffee, and delicious cocoanut milk 
 — but no wine. 
 
 Mrs. Judd saw that even Admiral Thomas thought 
 this a little inhospitable. They tried not to notice the 
 disappointment of their guests, and, being well-bred 
 women, they did not venture to offer any apologies. 
 Afterwards, Admiral Thomas told Mrs. Judd that they 
 had done right ; and he praised them for their wisdom 
 and courage. 
 
 3j<«C 
 
 XXVII. MOLOKAI AND THE LEPERS 
 
 ALICE did not visit Molokai, the island set apart for 
 the poor lepers — people afflicted with a terrible 
 incurable disease. 
 
 A little steamer makes regular trips between 
 Honolulu and Molokai, carrying the mails and any 
 visitors who have secured a permit from the govern- 
 ment physicians. 
 
 In the time of the first Kamehamehas there was no 
 
157 
 
 leprosy in Hawaii. It was brought from abroad, but it 
 spread so rapidly among the intemperate people that 
 the king and his advisers — able American and Euro- 
 pean physicians — began to consider how it could be 
 checked. They finally agreed upon a plan which, while 
 'it seemed very hard and cruel, was really, in the end, 
 kind and humane. The Hawaiians themselves never 
 shunned the lepers. They were not repelled by their 
 drawn and misshapen features, but ate out of the same 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 ^m 
 
 ™^.~ 
 
 g^^^ 
 
 iiUi«nf.a 
 
 ■ Jd&lBl 1' M ill. MSOi 
 
 SBHS 
 
 
 ■fiWMi 
 
 Group of Lepers 
 
 calabash used by their friends whose hands were badly 
 diseased. If their friends or relatives became lepers, 
 they had no fear of living with them, and they mourned 
 for them greatly when they died. 
 
 It was thought that this was one reason why the 
 disease could not be controlled ; so the Islands were 
 divided into districts, and the police went up and down 
 through each district, watching very carefully, to discover 
 any lepers among the people. When any were found, 
 they were taken away from their families and sent to a 
 hospital in Honolulu. There they were kept until it 
 
158 
 
 was certain that there could be no mistake about their 
 disease. Then they were put on board the steamer and 
 taken over to Molokai, and were forbidden ever again 
 to return to their homes. 
 
 It was in 1865 that it was decided that lepers should 
 be sent to Molokai, and land for a settlement was 
 bought on the north side of the island. This settlement 
 is on a peninsula which contains about three thousand 
 acres. The sea surrounds it on three sides, and it is 
 joined to the mainland of Molokai on the south side by 
 a precipice three thousand feet high. All around the 
 isthmus, which juts into the sea, the deep, rough surf is 
 never still, and through this surf even the Hawaiian 
 swimmer could hardly make his way. Sometimes the 
 surf is so rough that the boats cannot land. The 
 precipice on the south is so high and steep that the 
 lepers cannot escape in this direction from their prison. 
 
 Aside from being captives, the lepers have now 
 nothing to complain of in their treatment. Their home 
 is in the lovely valley of Wai-ko'lu, across which cool 
 sea breezes blow continually. They have excellent hos- 
 pitals with able physicians and nurses. The govern- 
 ment has built comfortable houses for them, and provides 
 them with food and clothing. They have dogs and 
 horses and many comforts. Flowers grow everywhere, 
 and they make wreaths and garlands which they twine 
 round their heads and necks, just as they did when they 
 were at home, among their friends and relatives. 
 
 Fortunately, while they become more and more dis- 
 figured by the disease, they do not suffer very much, 
 for it is not very painful. 
 
159 
 
 There are two villages in the settlement, Ka-la-wa'o 
 on the east side, and Ka-lau-pa'pa on the west side of 
 the peninsula, and the people living in the villages ride 
 back and forth, visiting one another, just as people do 
 in other places. 
 
 When it was decided to send all the lepers to Molokai, 
 the Hawaiians were very much opposed to it. They hid 
 their sick in caves, or in the forests, so that they might 
 not be discovered, and carried them food and cloth- 
 ing. But the poor lepers were always found at last. 
 They were missed from their homes, and their friends 
 were watched coming and going from their hiding places. 
 When discovered, they were arrested and taken to 
 Honolulu, and from there sent to Molokai. Their 
 friends and relatives came down to the ship to see them 
 sail away, and their grief at parting was heart-breaking. 
 It is indeed a sad thing to think of wives and husbands, 
 parents and children, bidding each other good-by for- 
 ever. Those who were left behind stood crying and 
 calling after the ship, until it sank out of sight; and 
 the poor lepers looked back at the land to which they 
 knew they could never return. 
 
 The year after the settlement was estabHshed, one 
 hundred and forty lepers were sent to Molokai, — men, 
 women, and children. No difference was made between 
 the high and the low, the rich and the poor. All were 
 treated alike, — Hawaiian guides and fishermen, Chinese 
 laborers from the plantations, and even the relatives of 
 the queen. 
 
 Among those who were rich and well-born was William 
 Ragsdale, a cousin of the beautiful Queen Emma. He 
 
i6o 
 
 was a well-educated lawyer, but being a leper, he, 
 too, had to go to the settlement upon Molokai. He 
 was a fine orator, and had much influence over the 
 people. He took great interest in the lepers and gave 
 them good advice. He had so much authority that he 
 was called *' Governor Ragsdale," although he was not 
 really the governor of Molokai. He was assisted in his 
 work among the lepers by twenty other men belonging 
 to the settlement, all of whom were lepers like himself. 
 But everything was done that he suggested and as he 
 advised. 
 
 At first the houses in which the lepers lived were 
 uncomfortable and poor ; the people did not try to keep 
 them clean, and were, in every way, very miserable. 
 
 After a time, King Kalakaua and Queen Kapiolani 
 visited Molokai, to see for themselves the condition of 
 the settlement. They were urged to do this by kind 
 men who had charge of the lepers, and who knew that 
 a great deal of money would be needed to build better 
 houses and hospitals, and to provide many necessary 
 comforts which were lacking. 
 
 The king made a touching speech to the lepers, who 
 had great respect for his rank and listened to him very 
 attentively. He told them how much it grieved him to 
 send them away from their homes and families, but said he 
 hoped they realized that it was necessary. He praised 
 them for their obedience to the law, and promised that 
 he, on his part, would do all he could to make their lot 
 as comfortable as possible. The poor lepers were much 
 touched, and wept at the king's kind speech. He kept 
 his word, and did much to improve the lepers' lot. 
 
i6i 
 
 Among the lepers present at the time of the king's 
 visit were two other cousins of Queen Emma. They, 
 however, fared better than the others, for they could 
 afford to have neat wooden houses built, comfortably 
 furnished with everything that they desired. At that 
 time all the other lepers lived in poor huts, where they 
 had neither sunhght nor fresh air. 
 
 For some time after the lepers were sent to Molokai, 
 every passenger on the ships that came into the harbor 
 at Honolulu was required to pay one dollar. This 
 money was saved and given to those who had charge 
 of the settlement, and with it many improvements were 
 made. The government of the Hawaiian Islands was 
 then too poor to make the necessary improvements 
 without this assistance. When, later, the great sugar 
 plantations were opened up, the country became richer 
 and the government was then able to take care of the 
 lepers without taxing travelers. 
 
 The government has also employed physicians to 
 study and find out all that can be learned about leprosy. 
 They travel all over the world where they may meet 
 men who, like themselves, are studying and observing 
 the disease in other lands. For there are thousands of 
 lepers in China, India, Syria, and even in cold countries 
 like Siberia, Norway, and Sweden. 
 
 Of the two villages in the settlement on Molokai, 
 the larger is Kalawao, and there are more lepers there 
 than at Kalaupapa, which is on the other side of the 
 peninsula. 
 
 The hospital buildings, which are arranged around a 
 grassy square shaded with algaroba trees, are in the 
 
 KROUT'S HAWAII — II ^ 
 
l62 
 
 village of Kalawao. They are whitewashed and kept 
 very clean. The doctor who has charge of the hospital 
 lives in a house near by, with his assistants, and there 
 is a dispensary where all who need medicine can get it. 
 This, like their food and clothing and houses, is fur- 
 nished free to the lepers by the government. 
 
 Each leper is allowed every week twenty-one pounds 
 of poi or other food, if he prefers it, and from five to 
 six pounds of beef. Sometimes the steamers cannot 
 deliver the provisions that have been sent to the lepers 
 because the surf is so rough that the boats cannot 
 land. When this happens, they are given rice and 
 salmon and other food instead. 
 
 There are two Catholic and three Protestant chapels 
 in the settlement, several schoolhouses, and one large 
 general store. 
 
 After twenty-five years of careful study, not much 
 more is known of leprosy than when it first appeared 
 in the Islands. It does not seem to be contagious, like 
 smallpox or scarlet fever, and children whose parents 
 are lepers are often quite healthy. If they are born in 
 Molokai, they are kept there until they are fourteen or 
 fifteen years old. Then it is thought that they are safe, 
 and they are allowed to go away and live wherever they 
 please. No cure for the disease has ever been found, 
 although many things have been tried. No one who 
 has once had leprosy has ever been known to get well. 
 
 For all this, the lepers are not sad. They sing and 
 laugh and enjoy themselves, much as other people do. 
 They like to go to church, to ride, bathe, make wreaths, 
 and listen to the band which has been taught by one 
 
i63 
 
 of the teachers in the school to play upon many kinds 
 of instruments. The band plays in the open air, 
 several evenings in the week. There is none like 
 it in the world, for every one of the musicians is a 
 leper. 
 
 XXVIII. FATHER DAMIEN 
 
 MRS. EARLE carefully explained all this to Alice, 
 and it made her very sad. She could never look 
 in the direction of Molokai without thinking of the 
 island lying out of sight, below the rim of the horizon, 
 and of the poor people who were sent there for life. 
 She did not, of course, see any lepers while she was in 
 Honolulu, for they were all kept in the receiving hospi- 
 tal until they were sent to Molokai. 
 
 At her home in Chicago there was a picture hanging 
 above Mrs. Earle's desk which Alice had always loved 
 dearly. It was the picture of Father Damien, a priest 
 who went out to Molokai, and lived among the lepers 
 until he died. His face was sweet and gentle, with 
 large dark eyes, a straight, beautiful nose, and a mouth 
 that looked as if it might smile with great tenderness 
 and compassion. 
 
 While they were sitting in their room one afternoon, 
 Alice asked her mother to tell her again the story of 
 Father Damien. Mrs. Earle was busy with some sew- 
 ing which she did not lay aside, and Alice drew up a 
 little stool and sat at her feet, listening to the story of 
 this noble life. 
 
1 64 
 
 Father Damien was born in Louvain, a city in 
 Belgium, on January 3, 1840. His mother and father 
 were pious people, and they brought up their children 
 very carefully. Their son Joseph was a gentle lad, full 
 
 Father Damien 
 
 of fun, but thoughtful of many things which do not usu- 
 ally interest boys. He wanted, above all, to do good in 
 the world ; to help others who had not so comfortable 
 a home, nor such kind parents as his own. 
 
 Alice wanted to know how Father Damien came to 
 decide to spend his life in Molokai, and Mrs. Earle took 
 
i65 
 
 from her shelf a book by Mr. Edward Clifford, and 
 read the following account: 
 
 " On his nineteenth birthday his father took him to 
 see his brother, who was then preparing for the priest- 
 hood, and he left him there to dine, while he himself 
 went on to a neighboring town. 
 
 "Young Joseph decided that here was the oppor- 
 tunity for taking the step which he had long been 
 desiring to take, and when his father came back he told 
 him that he wished to return home no more, and that it 
 would be better thus to miss the pain of farewells. 
 His father consented unwillingly, but, as he was obliged 
 to hurry to the conveyance which was to take him 
 home, there was no time for demur, and they parted at 
 the station. Afterwards, when all was settled, Joseph 
 revisited his home, and received his mother's approval 
 and blessing. 
 
 " His brother was bent on going to the South Seas 
 for mission work, and all was arranged accordingly; 
 but at the last he was laid low with fever, and, to his 
 bitter disappointment, forbidden to go. The impetuous 
 Joseph asked him if it would be a consolation to him to 
 have his brother go instead, and, receiving an affirma- 
 tive answer, he wrote secretly, offering himself, and 
 begging that he might be sent, though his education 
 was not yet finished. The students were not allowed 
 to send out letters till they had been submitted to the 
 Superior, but Joseph ventured to disobey. 
 
 " One day, as he sat at his studies, the Superior came 
 in, and said, with a tender reproach, ' Oh, you impa- 
 tient boy ! you have written this letter, and you are to go.' 
 
i66 
 
 "Joseph jumped up, and ran out, and leaped about 
 like a young colt. 
 
 " He worked for some years on other islands in the 
 Pacific, but it happened that he was one day, in 1873, 
 present at the dedication of a chapel in the island of 
 Maui, when the bishop was lamenting that it was not 
 possible for him to find a missionary to send to the 
 lepers at Molokai. He had only been able to send 
 them occasional and temporary help. 
 
 " Some young priests had just arrived in Hawaii for 
 mission work, and Father Damien instantly spoke. 
 * Here are your new missionaries,' said he ; * one of 
 them could take my district, and if you will be kind 
 enough to allow it, I will go to Molokai and labor for 
 the poor lepers whose wretched state of bodily and 
 spiritual misfortune has often made my heart bleed 
 within me.' 
 
 " His offer was accepted, and that very day, without 
 any farewells, he embarked on a boat that was taking 
 some cattle to the leper settlement. 
 
 " When he first put his foot on the island he said to 
 himself, * Now, Joseph, my boy, this is your life work.' " 
 
 He built himself a hut under a palm tree and lived 
 there for many years, until he had time to erect a 
 house ; for he was busy every moment, night and day, 
 among those who had need of his help. He scarcely 
 took time to eat or sleep. 
 
 There are few things useful to a life among the 
 lepers that he could not do. He built a church very 
 near the palm tree under which he had lived when he 
 came to the settlement. He used with skill the plane 
 
i67 
 
 and the saw and the hammer. He taught the children 
 in the schools ; he preached and worked in his garden ; 
 he nursed the sick, and even dug graves for the dead. 
 All this time he went about as if his were the happiest 
 life in the world. 
 
 When there was danger that Father Damien might 
 become a leper, because he was so constantly with the 
 sick and the dying, his friends begged him to leave the 
 island, but he said, " I could never choose to be well at 
 the price of giving up my life work." For twelve years 
 he escaped ; then he, too, fell a victim to the dread 
 disease. 
 
 He was very brave and uncomplaining, and never 
 regretted, for an instant, that he had come to Molokai. 
 Even when he was told that he must die, he still 
 worked on bravely. He knew that lepers often outlive 
 those who are apparently strong and healthy, and he 
 thought only of what he could accomplish before the 
 time should come when he could work no longer. 
 
 "You can understand," said Mrs. Earle, "how much 
 such an example did for the people, for, when we see 
 others bearing trials patiently, it helps us to bear our 
 own. And this was what Father Damien did for the 
 lepers." 
 
 XXIX. A VISIT TO FATHER DAMIEN 
 
 WHEN Father Damien had been at Molokai many 
 years people throughout the world began to hear 
 of his good deeds. Everybody was interested in him 
 
1 68 
 
 and wanted to help him, particularly when it became 
 known that he himself had fallen a victim to the terrible 
 disease. 
 
 In England, especially, contributions were raised, and 
 in 1888 a traveler, Mr. Edward Clifford, offered to de- 
 liver the gifts, and cheering letters which accompanied 
 them, to Father Damien. 
 
 {CopyriyM, IS'J'.), hy C. C. Langill.) 
 
 School in Molokai 
 
 As his vessel neared the coast of Molokai, Mr. Clif- 
 ford saw the island covered with grass and trees ; 
 the white cottages and the slender church spires ; and the 
 surf tossing its white spray high into the air along the 
 rocky coast. The steep, black, almost pathless cliffs 
 reached to the clouds. The sea was so rough that the 
 vessel could not land, so the party put off in a boat 
 for a rocky point a few miles from the town, where they 
 decided to leap ashore. 
 
169 
 
 As the boat approached, Mr. Clifford saw Father 
 Damien at a distance, a dark figure, coarsely dressed, 
 coming slowly down to the water's edge, where he ex- 
 changed signals with the men in the boat. 
 
 In spite of the roughness of the sea and the difficulty 
 of landing even the men, Mr. Clifford was unwilling to 
 leave behind him the gifts for Father Damien ; so he 
 opened the large box in the boat, and the parcels were 
 handed out, one by one, across the waves. 
 
 At the time of this visit Father Damien was nearly 
 forty-nine years old — a strongly built man with black 
 curly hair, and a short beard turning gray. He had 
 been in the island for sixteen years, and for the last 
 four years had been a leper. The disease had left its 
 marks upon him, and yet it was pleasant to look at his 
 noble, cheerful face. 
 
 Since he had come to Molokai he had been joined by 
 another priest, Father Conradi, and by four sisters who 
 spent their time taking care of the little girls and teach- 
 ing them to read and sew. A home for girls had been 
 founded, called Kapiolani Home, in honor of the wife 
 of Kalakaua who was king when it was built. 
 
 There were, in addition, several Protestant churches, 
 and their pastors also worked faithfully and patiently 
 among the lepers. 
 
 Father Damien was very much pleased with the pres- 
 ents that had been sent from London, and he was much 
 interested in untying all the parcels and wondered what 
 they contained. There were, among many other things, 
 beautiful pictures, a magic lantern, a musical instrument 
 that played forty different tunes, with gifts of money 
 
I/O 
 
 out of which Father Damien could buy for the lepers 
 whatever he thought they most needed. 
 
 A great English painter, Sir Edward Burne-Jones, in 
 admiration of Father Damien's work, painted for him a 
 beautiful picture — " The Vision of St. Francis." Father 
 Damien hung this picture in his own room, where he 
 could always see it. 
 
 He lived on the upper floor of a house which he had 
 built quite near the new Catholic church, and the lower 
 floor he gave up to his friend. Father Conradi. 
 
 Mr. Clifford found everything much improved in both 
 the villages. New houses, light and airy, had been built 
 for the people, on trestles, high above the ground. A 
 good supply of clear, cold water was brought down in 
 pipes from the mountains ; the hospitals were clean and 
 comfortable ; and the number of churches had increased 
 to five. 
 
 Mr. Clifford reached Molokai about Christmas time, 
 so that the box he brought was really a beautiful Christ- 
 mas present. He heard Father Damien preach a good, 
 sensible sermon that all could understand, simply urging 
 the people to do right and be good. There was very 
 sweet singing by the choir which he had trained. One 
 
 of the hymns 
 
 " Come hither, ye faithful, 
 Triumphantly sing " 
 
 Mr. Clifford had heard sung very often in his little vil- 
 lage church in England on Christmas mornings, when 
 the ground was white with snow, and the walls were 
 covered with spicy cedar, and the glossy, prickly holly 
 with its scarlet berries. There, everybody was joyous 
 
and happy, and the children had all come home to 
 spend the happy Christmastide together. 
 
 What a contrast to the scene on Molokai ! There was 
 no home-coming, ever again, for the lepers. Instead of 
 snow, there were bright flowers everywhere. Through 
 the open doors and windows could be seen palms and 
 mangoes waving in the soft wind, and the mynahs could 
 be heard chattering in the algaroba trees. 
 
 In the afternoon Father Damien talked in the Hawai- 
 ian language to the boys, very much as he had preached 
 to the older people in the morning. 
 
 He was a very humble man, both in his acts and his 
 speech. When he visited Mr. Clifford, he would not 
 come into the guest house, but sat outside, upon the 
 doorstep, for fear the sight of his face and hands might 
 offend his English friend. 
 
 Mr. Clifford showed him how to use the magic lantern, 
 which pleased them all very much, and Father Damien 
 explained, in Hawaiian, the pictures, which represented 
 scenes in the life of Christ. 
 
 Finally, the time came for Mr. Clifford to leave. 
 This is his own description of his last view of .the island. 
 
 " As our ship weighed anchor the somber purple cliffs 
 were crowned with white clouds. Down their sides 
 leaped the cataracts. The little village, with its three 
 churches and its white cottages, lay at their bases. 
 Father Damien stood with his people on the rocks till 
 we slowly passed from their sight. The sun was getting 
 low in the heavens, the beams of light were slanting 
 down the mountain sides, and then I saw the last of 
 Molokai in a golden veil of mist." 
 
172 
 
 Father Damien died a few months after this, and is 
 buried in the settlement where he worked so faith- 
 fully. He had lived long enough to bring about great 
 
 (Copyright, 1899, hy C. C. Langill.) 
 
 View of Molokai 
 
 changes for the better, and he will always be remem- 
 bered as one of those heroes who have willingly lived 
 and died for the good of others. 
 
 3j«<c 
 
 XXX. lOLANI PALACE 
 
 IN one of her walks about Honolulu Alice saw a large 
 showy building, standing on a lawn set with gay 
 flower-beds. A high wall was built around the grounds, 
 and there was a soldier standing at the gate, with his 
 musket in his hand. Mr. Earle said that this building 
 was I-o-la'ni Palace, built by King Kalakaua in 1880. 
 
173 
 
 His sister, Li-li'u-o-ka-la'ni, had also lived there as 
 queen. Kalakaua was a kind man, but not a very good 
 king. He was fond of pleasure, and glad to avoid 
 trouble ; and being advised by wicked men he did many 
 things that were not right. 
 
 After he had been king for seven years he started on 
 
 lolani Palace 
 
 a long journey around the world, and came home dis- 
 satisfied with his own kingdom, which he wished to 
 make like the great countries he had seen across the 
 water. He wanted soldiers and ships, though he did 
 not need them, and was quite discontented because 
 there was no money to pay for all the things he longed 
 to possess. 
 
74 
 
 It was not the custom in Hawaii for the king to 
 wear a crown, but Kalakaua now sent to England for 
 crowns for himself and the queen, and when they 
 arrived in Honolulu, Kalakaua and Kapiolani were 
 crowned in a little pavilion in the palace grounds. 
 
 Some time after this the king decided to visit Cali- 
 fornia for his health. He was treated everywhere with 
 
 the greatest kindness, 
 but his health contin- 
 ued to fail, and in spite 
 of the efforts of the 
 best doctors to save 
 him he died in San 
 Francisco in January, 
 1 89 1, two months after 
 his departure from 
 home. His body was 
 sent back to his own 
 country in the Charles- 
 ton, an American war 
 ship. Just about this 
 time the king was ex- 
 pected home, and the people in Honolulu had prepared 
 to give him a royal welcome. Arches covered with 
 vines and flowers had been erected, and the public 
 buildings were bright with flags and garlands. As the 
 ship hove in sight the people saw the flag flying at half- 
 mast, and soon they all knew that their king was dead. 
 The decorations were quickly exchanged for mourning, 
 and the king's body was carried to the palace, and 
 buried in the royal tomb. 
 
 Kalakaua 
 
175 
 
 As the king had no children, his sister, Liliuokalani, 
 became queen. She promised to obey and enforce the 
 laws, and it was hoped that she would make a good 
 queen. But these laws, made by the advice of 
 foreigners, took away much of the royal power. They 
 
 Liliuokalani 
 
 were for the good of the country, but Queen Liliuoka- 
 lani did not care for that. She was jealous of the 
 power of the white men, and thought if she could but 
 get rid of them she could make new laws to suit herself. 
 Some of the queen's friends, who knew what was 
 best for her, tried to persuade her to be advised by wise 
 men who understood better than she how to govern, but 
 
1 76 
 
 she was very stubborn and insisted on having her own 
 way. At last the people's patience gave out. A num- 
 ber of men called the " Committee of Safety," banded 
 together to save the country from the queen's bad 
 influence, and since she showed herself unfit to govern, 
 told her she could no longer be queen. 
 
 As might have been expected, Liliuokalani was very 
 angry, and prepared to resist with might and main. 
 This happened in the year 1893. It was a trying time, 
 and no one could tell how it would end. The people in 
 Honolulu were asked to stay quietly at home and help 
 in every way they could to preserve order. The 
 marines came ashore from the American ship, the 
 Boston, to protect the lives and property of the Amer- 
 icans living in Honolulu. 
 
 Fortunately there was no fighting, and the queen and 
 her friends were not harmed in any way; but Liliuoka- 
 lani was forced to leave the palace and went to Wash- 
 ington Villa, the house where she had lived before she 
 was made queen. Washington Villa was not far from 
 the palace, and was a large two-story house with veran- 
 das above and below. Here Liliuokalani lived with her 
 servants, visited by her friends, and driving out in her 
 carriage whenever she pleased. 
 
 At this time many people thought it would be a good 
 plan to ask the United States to govern the Islands; 
 but it took time to consider whether this would be a 
 good thing for both countries, and it was not before the 
 summer of 1898 that the Hawaiian Islands were annexed 
 to the United States. In the meantime, the people in 
 Hawaii established a republican form of government 
 
177 
 
 and chose a president, Mr. Sanford B. Dole, who had 
 all his life long been such a good man that both the 
 white people and the Hawaiians knew that they could 
 trust him with such responsible duties. 
 
 Liliuokalani did not wish the Hawaiian Islands to be 
 governed by the United States, and she by no means 
 
 Washington Villa 
 
 gave up the idea of again becoming queen. While she 
 lived at Washington Villa, she held secret meetings in 
 her house, and bought guns and swords, powder and 
 shot, which were buried in pits upon her lawn. She 
 had planned to arm Hawaiian soldiers and fight in the 
 streets, until the people who had opposed her were con- 
 quered or killed. Then she thought she could go back 
 
 KROUT'S HAWAII 
 
 12 
 
178 
 
 to the palace, and the white men and their families 
 would be driven from the Islands and never permitted 
 to return. She forgot that many of them had been 
 born there and had lived there all their lives, and that it 
 was their country just as much as her own. 
 
 Her plans failed, and the Hawaiians who tried to 
 fight were driven into the mountains, and at last forced 
 to surrender. Liliuokalani was taken back to the 
 palace, not, however, as queen, but as a prisoner. She 
 was treated with more kindness than she seemed to 
 deserve, for the rooms that she had before occupied 
 were set apart for her use, and her servants were allowed 
 to wait upon her, and she could walk and sit in the 
 garden as often as she pleased. It was such a beauti- 
 ful garden, with the mountains and the sea near at 
 hand, that such a prison could not have been very 
 dismal. 
 
 After Hstening with much interest to this story, Alice 
 ascended a flight of broad stone steps leading to the 
 entrance, which opened into a broad hall. Nothing 
 had been changed. The large rooms were very plainly 
 furnished, Alice thought, for a palace. The flowered 
 Brussels carpets, the furniture covered with chintz, and 
 the chintz curtains, were not of the kind she thought a 
 queen would have chosen. In one broad, long apart- 
 ment, two large chairs, with gilded arms and backs, 
 stood- upon a low dais or platform, in front of which 
 curtains of crimson, velvet hung from the ceiling. This 
 was the throne where the king and queen had sat on 
 great occasions, splendidly dressed in silk and velvet 
 and costly jewels. 
 
179 
 
 Upon the walls, framed like pictures, were medals 
 and ribbons. These were the ''orders'* (badges worn 
 by people of high rank) which had been given King 
 Kalakaua by other kings and queens throughout the 
 world. 
 
 There were also portraits of the old Hawaiian rulers, 
 which had been painted by artists who visited Hawaii, 
 or by great painters in England. 
 
 Alice thought Kamehameha the Great the most inter- 
 esting of the kings, and Queen Emma the most beauti- 
 ful of the queens. The great king's portrait was that 
 of a dark-skinned old man, with short, snow-white hair 
 and dark, piercing eyes. Over his shoulders he wore a 
 yellow feather mantle. Queen Emma had a very sweet 
 and amiable expression. She was the wife of Kame- 
 hameha IV. She never reigned herself, although the 
 Hawaiian s wanted her for their ruler at the time when 
 Kalakaua was chosen king. 
 
 In a little cabinet in one of the rooms were collected 
 a great many curious toys and tools. These were made 
 of wood, or bone, or stone, by the early Hawaiians, and 
 are now no longer used. There were calabashes, deep, 
 polished bowls for holding food and water. And there 
 were the large wooden platters used to serve roast dog, 
 — a dish which the Hawaiians considered a great deli- 
 cacy. The dogs thus served were small, and had been 
 fed on clean, wholesome food like taro and sweet 
 potato. 
 
 Among the most curious things to be seen in the 
 palace were the beautiful feather mantles. These were 
 carefully locked away in chests. Each mantle wa^ 
 
i8o 
 
 smoothly rolled around a long, wooden staff. When 
 shaken out it looked almost like the plumage of some 
 large bird. With the mantles they saw a number 
 of staffs that looked like great feather dust brushes. 
 They were made of many kinds of feathers, — yel- 
 low, black, white, and red, — and their handles, which 
 were six or eight feet long, were of polished wood with 
 bands of tortoise shell or bone. They were always 
 carried in the procession, when the king and queen 
 passed through the streets of Honolulu in state, or 
 were placed about their thrones, and about their 
 coffins when they died. 
 
 XXXI. KAPIOLANI 
 
 AS they drove back and forth to Waikiki, Alice had 
 noticed a pretty place, quite near the sea. Above 
 the gate was a notice in Hawaiian letters, ^^ Kapiif* 
 This meant, "No Admittance." Alice would have liked 
 very much to walk about the shady grounds, which, 
 although they were not so neat and trim as other 
 gardens she had seen, looked cool and pleasant. Man- 
 goes and algarobas grew everywhere, and rows of tall, 
 stately palms bordered the graveled drive. She never 
 passed the gate without longing to go in, but the word 
 of warning always stared her in the face. 
 
 One day her mother told her that they had an invi- 
 tation to call upon Kapiolani, who had been the wife 
 
i8i 
 
 of King Kalakaua, and was called the queen dowager. 
 Alice was delighted when she learned that Kapiolani 
 lived in the pretty place that she longed to visit. 
 
 They started at about four o'clock in the afternoon. 
 A Hawaiian lady went with them to introduce them 
 to Kapiolani, and to translate what Kapiolani said, for 
 although she understood English she could not speak it. 
 
 Home of Kapiolani 
 
 Everybody liked Queen Kapiolani. She had al- 
 ways been good and kind, especially to the sick and 
 poor. She was friendly to Americans, too, at a time 
 when few of the Hawaiians were on good terms with 
 them. 
 
 Alice could hardly believe that her wish had come 
 ' true, even as they drove through the gate, under the 
 palm trees, up to the door. 
 
 The house was not like any that she had ever seen 
 
l82 
 
 The front was covered with latticework, and two flights 
 of steps, on opposite sides of a little open balcony, led 
 to the .front door. There was another door, beneath 
 the balcony, which opened into rooms on the ground 
 floor. Alice did not notice any windows in the front 
 of the house. 
 
 The door to the main entrance stood open, and 
 they went up the steps into the drawing-room. There 
 was no bell, and no one came to meet them, but 
 the Hawaiian lady told them that this was not neces- 
 sary. They sat down and waited for Kapiolani to 
 appear. 
 
 The drawing-room was large and airy, and curiously 
 furnished. The carpet was of a bright color decorated 
 with roses. The furniture was plain and old-fashioned. 
 Vases filled with flowers stood about, not upon the tables 
 and mantels, but upon the floor, in corners where they 
 could not be upset. 
 
 Upon a table in the center of the floor was a marble 
 bust of King Kalakaua, and there were many pictures 
 of him on the walls. Near the table was a tall staff 
 made of colored feathers, with a long handle of wood, 
 like those Alice had seen when she visited the palace. 
 This was placed beside the bust, because Kalakaua had 
 been king. 
 
 At the doors were hangings of rich silk which, no 
 doubt, the king had brought home from India, when 
 he made his long journey around the world. There 
 were other hangings, which, Hke the curtains, were of 
 plain chintz. 
 
 Alice had never seen a queen before, and she did 
 
183 
 
 not know just how to act. She saw that her mother 
 was not at all embarrassed, but was very calm and self- 
 possessed ; just as she would have been in calling upon 
 a friend in Chicago. So she thought that this must 
 be proper, and she, also, sat very quiet and waited for 
 Kapiolani to come. 
 
 They could hear a great deal of talking and laughing 
 somewhere about the house. Presently they looked up 
 and saw a tall, dark 
 woman standing in a 
 doorway which led to 
 an outer room. She 
 paused a moment, as 
 if somewhat shy. 
 Then she smiled very 
 pleasantly, and held 
 out her hand, just as 
 any other well-bred 
 woman might have 
 done. She told them, 
 in Hawaiian, that she 
 was very glad to see 
 them. 
 
 She did not look like a queen, according to Alice's 
 idea. She was very tall indeed, and strong and power- 
 ful, but not so stout as many Hawaiian women that 
 Alice had met. Her skin and eyes were quite dark, 
 but her teeth were white and even. Her hair was jet 
 black and was worn in a large thick coil on the top of 
 her head. She wore a holoku of stiff, black silk, and 
 a brooch, set round with pearls, in which was a portrait 
 
 
 '"tkl-'^^'.'K. 
 
1 84 
 
 of her husband. After shaking hands with them all, 
 she patted Alice gently on the cheek. Then several 
 Hawaiian ladies who lived with Kapiolani came into the 
 drawing-room. They, also, wore holokus, but theirs 
 were of bright-colored silk. 
 
 Alice noticed, too, that the queen wore a wreath of 
 yellow feathers, which was like those she had seen at 
 the palace. These are still worn by princesses and 
 chiefs of high rank. None of the ladies wore the 
 feather wreaths ; theirs were made of flowers, and they 
 also wore flowers in their hair. 
 
 It was quite warm, and Kapiolani asked one of 
 the ladies to get a fan for Mrs. Earle and one for 
 Alice, and she, too, sat fanning herself. The fans 
 were of braided grass, like the mats that Alice had 
 seen. 
 
 Kapiolani was very good-natured. She asked Mrs. 
 Earle a great many questions, which their Hawaiian 
 friend translated' into English. She had visited the 
 United States and England once, and had been kindly 
 received everywhere. She liked America, she said, and 
 hoped, some day, to visit it again. Mrs. Earle had told 
 Alice about the visit to England, where Kapiolani was 
 the guest of Queen Victoria, who gave her fine apart- 
 ments to live in, with a sentinel in uniform to stand 
 outside the door. The queen also put her own splendid 
 carriages at the disposal of Kapiolani during her stay 
 in London. 
 
 When Mrs. Earle told Kapiolani how beautiful she 
 thought the Hawaiian Islands were, and how much 
 she had been charmed with the clean city, the gardens, 
 
i85 
 
 and the excellent schools, Kapiolani smiled approvingly 
 and seemed much pleased. 
 
 A pretty picture of Princess Kaiulani hung upon the 
 wall. It had always been expected that she would be 
 the next queen of the Hawaiian Islands. She was at 
 this time studying in England, and Kapiolani, who 
 loved her very dearly, hoped that she would soon return ; 
 for she thought she 
 would be happier in her 
 own sunny land. She 
 did not foresee how 
 short a time the princess 
 was to spend in Hawaii, 
 for Kaiulani died very 
 soon after her return, in 
 1899. 
 
 When they rose to go, 
 the queen also rose and 
 shook hands with them, 
 and said '' Aloha ! " 
 
 As they drove back to 
 the city Mrs. Earle told 
 Alice that, although Kalakaua had been an unpopular 
 king, Kapiolani had always been much respected and 
 beloved. She was dignified and polite, and all spoke 
 well of her. She had never had any children, and 
 this was why Liliuokalani, the king's sister, was made 
 queen after Kalakaua died. 
 
 Kapiolani was named after the chief who ate the ohelo 
 berries, and went down into the crater of Kilauea to 
 prove to the people that there was no such spirit as Pele. 
 
 Kaiulani 
 
1 86 
 
 XXXII. AN OSTRICH FARM 
 
 ALICE had often seen ostriches, in parks and in 
 zoological gardens, but she had never seen them 
 walking about in the fields. 
 
 She knew that they came from Africa, and that in 
 the southern part of Africa they are now raised on 
 farms, just as we raise horses and cattle in our country. 
 
 They were trying to raise ostriches in the Hawaiian 
 Islands, and there was a farm out in the country, not 
 far from Diamond Head, which Alice visited. It 
 takes a great deal of time and patience to raise young 
 ostriches in foreign lands, although in their native 
 countries the young birds are left very much to them- 
 selves. 
 
 The ostrich farmer lived in a neat white house, in 
 a grove of algaroba trees, and he was quite willing to 
 show the party about. 
 
 The paddock in which the young ostriches were 
 kept was green and grassy, and there was plenty of 
 shade. Alice wondered why such a place as this had 
 been chosen, for she knew that wild ostriches in Africa 
 live on the desert, where there is no * shade. Mr. 
 Earle told her that almost all animals change their 
 habits a little when they are taken from their native 
 country. It is never possible to get quite the same kind 
 of food for them that they have been accustomed to 
 eat; and they have to adapt themselves to a different 
 climate. There are many animals that cannot live in 
 any country but their own ; while others, like cats 
 
i87 
 
 and dogs and fowls, can live in almost any part of 
 the world. The ostrich usually thrives well wherever 
 the climate is warm enough, and where there is not too 
 much rain. 
 
 The young birds stood under the trees near the fence, 
 and Alice looked at them as closely as she dared. They 
 did not seem very good-tempered, and she was afraid to 
 go too close to them. The chicks were covered all over 
 
 Young Ostriches 
 
 by a light-colored, spiny down. When two months 
 old the birds begin to resemble the mother bird. The 
 body is covered with brownish-gray feathers, while the 
 head, neck, and legs are almost naked. At three years 
 of age they assume their full plumage. The male bird 
 then has glossy black feathers on the body and long, 
 white feathers on the tail and wing. These white 
 feathers are of the greatest value. 
 
 The long neck much resembles that of the camel in 
 
i88 
 
 shape. The legs are long and there are two toes on 
 each foot. The longer toe has a strong claw. The 
 feet are padded beneath, so that the ostrich can travel 
 quickly over the sand. The large eyes are a soft 
 brown, like the eyes of a cow, and the head is 
 flattened. 
 
 The ostrich defends itself with its sharp claws, and an 
 old bird can dangerously wound and even kill a man 
 with one blow. The ostrich in the desert runs very 
 swiftly, and a hunter on a fast horse can hardly over- 
 take him. 
 
 As Alice and her father stood looking at the ostriches, 
 they stretched their necks over the fence, to get a better 
 view of their visitors. They yawned often, as if they 
 were sleepy. It was a very warm day, and the young 
 ostriches tried to fan themselves with their little wings 
 as they walked away. 
 
 The farmer said that he fed them on cabbage, a little 
 grain, and on alfalfa, which is a kind of grass that is 
 good food for horses and cattle. 
 
 The eggs were hatched in an incubator, though the 
 mother bird sat on the nest until the eggs were taken from 
 her. Whenever she left the nest the male bird came to 
 sit on it and to guard it with jealous care. When they 
 are not sitting on the nest, the old birds are suspicious 
 and uneasy. They never leave the nest for very long. 
 
 The ostrich lays about thirty eggs in one nest; but 
 the farmer said that, even with the greatest care, but 
 few of these eggs are hatched. The feathers of the 
 bird are not of much value until it is eighteen months 
 old. Old ostriches are worth a great deal more than 
 
i89 
 
 ordinary horses. They cost from seven hundred to 
 eight hundred dollars each. The young birds, when 
 full-grown, are worth one hundred and fifty dollars 
 apiece, if they are in good condition. 
 
 The ostrich farmer told them that he had to be care- 
 ful of the young birds, as they were very tender. They 
 had to be kept dry and warm, and the least over- 
 feeding would be apt to kill them. 
 
 Alice told the ostrich farmer that she had read some- 
 where that the ostrich could eat anything, — scraps 
 of iron and bits of glass, which, it was stated, agreed 
 with it. The man laughed, and said that this was not 
 true. They do pick up small pieces of metal, now 
 and then, and, like all birds, they require gravel to help 
 them digest their food ; but they have to be fed very 
 carefully. 
 
 When the farmer goes out after dark to steal the 
 eggs, he takes with him a short, forked stick. With 
 this he keeps the old birds at a distance, for it makes 
 them very angry to see their nests disturbed. He 
 pushes one of the birds away by holding the neck in 
 the fork of the stick. This frightens both the ostrich 
 that is caught in the fork of the stick and its mate, so 
 that they run away as fast as they can. 
 
 The incubator, in which the eggs are hatched, looks 
 very much like a kerosene stove, and it is heated with 
 kerosene lamps. The eggs must be kept very warm, 
 and they must be turned four times a day, and four 
 times during the night. They do not hatch for six 
 weeks, and the ostrich farmer, who must get up four 
 times during the night, unless he has some one to help 
 
I90 
 
 him, is very glad when the young birds come out of the 
 shell. When the old bird hears the chirp of the young 
 ostrich, she knows that it is time for it to hatch, and 
 she helps it break the thick shell by striking it with her 
 breastbone. When the eggs are hatched in an incuba- 
 tor, at the end of the six weeks the ostrich farmer 
 listens very carefully, every day, and when he hears the 
 
 Old Ostriches 
 
 young birds, he breaks the shell with a small, sharp 
 instrument. 
 
 When the birds are hatched they are placed in a box 
 which is kept warm, and always at the same tempera- 
 ture. Long, soft, woolen strings are hung from the 
 roof of the box, to serve instead of the old bird's plu- 
 mage, which protects her young when she gathers them 
 under her wings. 
 
 The old birds were in paddocks by themselves. 
 When Mr. Earle asked to see them, the ostrich farmer 
 whistled, and they came trotting to him, no doubt expect- 
 
191 
 
 ing to be fed. Some of them were seven feet tall. A 
 lane, not more than two yards wide, leading from the 
 paddocks, had been inclosed by a high fence ; and in 
 this lane the old birds walked up and down. 
 
 One of the old ostriches, named "Jumbo," was strong 
 and fierce and was kept by himself; but he did not 
 seem to object to this. He was probably very proud 
 that the other birds were so much afraid of him. Alice 
 had read somewhere that the ostrich was a timid, gentle 
 bird. The farmer said that this might be true of some 
 ostriches, but that old birds, like Jumbo, were very 
 savage ; they could never be tamed, and it was not safe 
 for strangers to go near them. 
 
 As he said this. Jumbo c^me slowly up to the fence 
 in the little lane, and stretching his long furry neck 
 over the palings, eyed Alice very savagely indeed. He 
 seemed to be saying, " If I could only get a chance at 
 that hat of yours, there would not be much of it left." 
 Alice was glad that the fence was strong and high. 
 
 3i*i< 
 
 XXXHI. HAWAHAN SCHOOLS 
 
 A FEW days before they were to sail for San Fran- 
 cisco, Alice went with her mother and father to 
 visit the schools in Honolulu. Before she came to the 
 Hawaiian Islands Alice had an idea that only the white 
 people living there could read and write. She was 
 much surprised, therefore, to learn that, in proportion to 
 
192 
 
 the number of people, there were more who could read 
 in Hawaii than in Illinois. 
 
 The missionaries from New England, on their very first 
 visit to the Hawaiian Islands, had started schools and 
 begun at once to teach the people to read. Alice knew 
 how anxious the Hawaiians were to learn. Young and 
 old alike had been eager to attend the mission schools. 
 There are now in the Islands many pubHc schools like 
 our own; with the same sort of books, desks, and 
 blackboards, and with good teachers, many of whom 
 have been taught in the United States. These schools, 
 very different from those first held in grass huts, are 
 now found not only in Honolulu and in the villages 
 throughout the Islands, but also in the country near the 
 plantations. 
 
 By the time the missionaries had been in Honolulu 
 twelve years, a good many other American and English 
 people had settled in Hawaii. 
 
 In 1832 a subscription was taken for the erection of 
 a schoolhouse for the English-speaking children living 
 in the Islands. The captains of the ships in the harbor 
 contributed liberally, and in 1833 a neat brick building 
 was erected, and the school was opened under the name 
 of the " Oahu Charity School." 
 
 A few years later a boarding school for girls was 
 established in Wailuku, and a manual training school 
 for Hawaiian boys in Hilo. In addition to the common 
 studies the boys of this school were taught to work in 
 the garden, and to use tools. 
 
 Some years after this, another school was founded, 
 which at first was attended only by the children of the 
 
193 
 
 missionaries, but later by Hawaiian children as well. 
 This school is now Oahu College. 
 
 There were good schools in Honolulu long before 
 there were any in California, and when California began 
 to be settled by Americans, the people who could afford 
 
 Hedge of Night-blooming Ucr-rJo 
 
 to do so sent their children down to Honolulu to attend 
 the missionary schools. 
 
 Alice visited the college first. The large buildings 
 stand in beautiful grounds shaded with mango and 
 algaroba trees, and the lawns are very green and closely 
 clipped. Near the road is a long hedge of a kind of 
 cactus, a prickly plant that grows in hot countries in 
 dry, sandy soil. It is called the night-blooming cereus. 
 
 KROUT's HAWAII — 13 
 
194 
 
 It opens very slowly in the night and is pure white, and 
 very fragrant. When the hedge along the college lawn 
 was in bloom it was covered with the large white flowers, 
 thousands blooming at once. 
 
 Women were admitted to the Oahu College from the 
 very start, for the missionaries believed in giving men 
 and women the same advantages of education. 
 
 One of the founders 
 of the college was the 
 Rev. Daniel Dole, father 
 of Sanford B. Dole, the 
 president of the Republic 
 of Hawaii. This school 
 was at first called " Pu-na- 
 ho'u" or "new spring," 
 from a fine large spring 
 near by. There was a su- 
 perstition connected with 
 this spring that if any one 
 about to leave Hawaii 
 should drink from it, he 
 would be sure to return 
 some day. 
 When the school was opened, the pupils paid but fifty 
 cents a week for food, lodging, and instruction. 
 
 The first building was of adobe or sun-dried bricks, 
 one story high, with a thatched roof. Now, there are 
 several buildings of brick and stone, a library and recita- 
 tion rooms, and near the college there are pretty houses 
 for the president and the teachers. The teachers and 
 pupils all eat together in the same dining hall, boys and 
 
 President Dole 
 
195 
 
 girls, Hawaiians and Americans, and they are very 
 industrious and happy. 
 
 Besides the government schools, or public schools, a 
 seminary was opened in Honolulu for Hawaiian girls. 
 This, too, was a pretty place, and the girls were very 
 happy and contented. They came into the chapel with 
 wreaths around their necks and flowers in their hair. 
 
 Schoolbov 
 
 They were neatly dressed, and they sang, in their own 
 language, a very sweet but mournful song. Alice never 
 heard a Hawaiian song that did not sound sad. She 
 could not understand this, for the Hawaiians are always 
 smiling, and nothing seems to trouble them. 
 
 Several miles out of the city there is a school for 
 boys, called the Kamehameha School. Besides recita- 
 tion rooms and laboratories in the large building, there 
 are machine shops with forges and lathes, a printing 
 
196 
 
 office, and a farm where the pupils are taught to work 
 when they are not studying or reciting their lessons. 
 The boys also have a military company and are drilled 
 like soldiers. They look very handsome in their neat 
 uniforms. The money to buy the land, to put up the 
 buildings, and to pay the teachers was given by a 
 
 Kamehameha School 
 
 Hawaiian princess, Bernice Pau-a'hi, who married an 
 American banker. She might have been queen, but 
 she preferred to live quietly in her own home. Prin- 
 cess Pauahi had no children, and she left almost 
 all her large fortune for the education of Hawaiian 
 children. 
 
 Near the college is a museum, also her gift. It is 
 well arranged, and here are kept tools, utensils, 
 
197 
 
 weapons, mats, fans, and tapa — the things the 
 Hawaiians used to make. As they do very little of 
 this work now, these articles are carefully preserved 
 that people may know what they were like. There 
 are also stuffed birds and fishes. Alice saw, among 
 other things, the bird from whose plumage the feather 
 mantles were made. 
 
 The Hawaiian children are very good in school. 
 They are gentle, obedient, and respectful to their 
 teachers. They read and spell well, and they write 
 beautifully; but most of them find difficulty with 
 arithmetic. 
 
 XXXIV. THE CHINESE AND THEIR 
 SCHOOLS 
 
 IN Honolulu there are a great many Chinese. They 
 not only work on the plantations and in their gar- 
 dens, raising fruits and vegetables, but they keep shops. 
 Some of these shops are small, and nothing is sold 
 there but cheap clothing and all the queer kinds of 
 food that the Chinese like. Others are large and filled 
 with beautiful things that have been brought from 
 China, — silks and crepes; carved boxes of ivory and 
 sandalwood ; and fans of embroidered silk or beautiful 
 feathers. 
 
 The families of the rich merchants live in rooms over 
 the shops. Their wives wear rich silk clothing. Their 
 feet, upon which they wear tiny shoes embroidered in 
 
198 
 
 silk and gold thread, are only a few inches in length, 
 They do not walk well, but totter as if about to fall. 
 When they were very small their feet were wound in 
 tight bandages so that they could not grow. It is an 
 extremely painful process, but among the rich and edu- 
 
 Chinese Woman with Small Feet 
 
 cated people in China a woman with large feet is not 
 respected. 
 
 Alice did not see in Honolulu any little Chinese girls 
 whose feet had been bandaged. She thought that the 
 American teachers must have persuaded their parents 
 to let their feet grow, so that they might walk about, 
 and run and play like other children. 
 
199 
 
 One day Alice went to visit a large boarding school 
 for Chinese boys kept by a missionary. The mission- 
 ary's wife was a beautiful woman, born in Canton, of 
 American parents. She spoke Chinese as well as 
 English, although Chinese is a very hard language to 
 
 Chinese Boarding School 
 
 learn. There are many thousands of words that must 
 be committed to memory, because there is a separate 
 character in Chinese for every word. 
 
 When Alice and her mother went into the room 
 where forty or fifty boys were studying under a Chinese 
 teacher, the pupils rose and bade them good morning 
 in chorus. They did the same when the visitors left. 
 
200 
 
 The teacher was an odd-looking old Chinaman, dressed 
 in Chinese clothes, with a black cap on his head. He 
 wore large spectacles of a kind that Alice had never 
 seen before. He was very grave and polite. He spoke 
 English, and told them that some of his pupils had come 
 from China only a few months before. 
 
 The children's books were printed in Chinese, and 
 what seemed to Alice like a crooked,, dotted letter, was 
 really several words. One boy, about twelve years old, 
 showed Mrs. Earle his book, and told her that he was 
 studying about animals. 
 
 It was very noisy in the school. The pupils all studied 
 aloud, with voices pitched in many keys, and it sounded 
 like a strange kind of singing. The children must be 
 very careful how they pitch their voices, for a word in 
 one key means one thing, and the same word in a 
 different key means something else. The teacher 
 listened closely all the time, and whenever he heard a 
 wrong tone he corrected the pupils. 
 
 Boys in China are taught to pay the highest respect 
 to their parents and teachers. 
 
 While the boys at their desks were chanting their 
 lessons, one at a time was called up to recite. Each 
 boy came to the teacher's desk, and stood with his back 
 to the teacher. The teacher did not ask any questions, 
 but the pupil recited what he had learned by heart. 
 Chinese pupils spend a great deal of time learning 
 words of which they do not know the meaning. They 
 are taught the meaning later. 
 
 Alice also visited the Chinese kindergarten, where she 
 thought the little boys and girls very pretty. The 
 
20I 
 
 schoolroom was pleasant and sunny and Alice did not 
 wonder that the children like to go to school. Through 
 the open doors and windows she could hear the breeze 
 stirring in the palm trees. The walls were covered 
 with pretty pictures, and there were little tables at 
 which the children sat, cut- 
 ting paper for baskets, and 
 molding figures in clay. 
 They showed by their 
 happy faces how much 
 they enjoyed this work. 
 
 The children wore little 
 trousers and jackets of 
 green, pink, blue, or brown 
 dotted with large yellow 
 dots. Their queues were 
 lengthened with pink cord 
 which was braided in with 
 the hair. Several wore 
 anklets and bracelets of 
 metal. 
 
 When Alice entered, 
 they were playing a game 
 with a ball. One child 
 
 stood in the center with a ball in her hand, while the 
 other children moved round her in a circle, singing. 
 Presently she chose a boy to whom she gave the ball, 
 and he took her place in the circle, and gave the ball 
 to another child. He bowed and shook hands with 
 the child to whom he gave the ball. They sang very 
 sweetly, because they had been taught when they were 
 
 Chinese Girl 
 
202 
 
 young, and before their voices were spoiled. The Chi- 
 nese have naturally thin, high voices, and their music is 
 very harsh. 
 
 On their way home they passed a Chinese temple 
 and saw the people bowing before the figures of their 
 gods, which were very hideous. Children played upon 
 the steps, and ran in and out, but they did not disturb 
 the priests, and nobody chased them away. A little 
 girl went into the temple carrying a baby on her back. 
 It was crying with all its might, but no one paid any 
 attention to it. Alice wanted to loosen the tight scarf 
 by which the baby was carried, which she thought must 
 hurt it very much. But she did not dare to ask the 
 little girl if she might. 
 
 When Alice reached home she said that she had 
 learned from this interesting visit many things about 
 the Chinese that she was glad to know. 
 
 XXXV. GOOD-BY 
 
 AFTER she had spent three delightful months in 
 Hawaii, the time came for AHce to say "good-by." 
 She felt very sad at the thought of leaving, and al- 
 though she was anxious to see her friends in Chicago, 
 she almost wished she could stay forever in these beau* 
 tiful Islands. She dreaded the thought of the cold and 
 the snow, of the dark, wet autumn days and the raw 
 winds of March. 
 
 They went for their last drive on Punchbowl ; along 
 Nuuanu Avenue, past the tiny gardens, surrounded by 
 
203 
 
 gray stone walls, where the old Hawaiians had once 
 raised their crops of taro. 
 
 As Alice looked down upon the city, with its roofs 
 among the palms and mango trees, she wondered if she 
 should ever see Honolulu again. The thought that this 
 might be her last view of the city made her very sad 
 indeed. 
 
 Her little friends came to bid her good-by, and 
 brought her presents as remembrances. There were 
 fans of woven grass, tied with red and blue ribbons ; an 
 odd Chinese switch made of horsehair; and three or 
 four queer Chinese dolls, made of wood, dressed in silk 
 and tinsel, like little Chinese women. 
 
 When their trunks were packed and the steamer 
 rugs and chairs were ready to send to the dock, Alice 
 walked about the hotel and remembered how pretty it 
 looked the day they arrived, when the vines that cov- 
 ered the algaroba trees were in bloom. Now the 
 flowers were nearly all gone, but the gray, gnarled 
 trees along the avenue were covered with great clusters 
 of blossoms that were even brighter than the vines. 
 
 She looked for the last time at the natives, who sat ^t 
 the door of the hotel with their baskets of bouquets and 
 heaps of leis, their taro suspended from poles, or their 
 stock of beautiful polished walking sticks. These men 
 are very humble and do not tease any one to buy. 
 They simply hold out their wares to be looked at, and 
 if any one buys of them, they ^re grateful and bow 
 and smile with pleasure. 
 
 The ship in which Alice was to sail for home was 
 the Attstralia, It was not quite so large as the Maru 
 
204 
 
 posa, but it had an upper deck, where Mr. Earle 
 thought that it would be very pleasant to sit, when the 
 weather was fine, as it usually is on the Pacific. 
 
 Peddling Taru 
 
 A great many people came to bid their friends 
 good-by. They brought with them all kinds of leis. 
 Some were of tuberoses, others of heHotrope, scarlet 
 hibiscus, and bright yellow ohias. With the wreaths of 
 
205 
 
 flowers were long garlands of the sweet-smelling maile. 
 These leis and garlands were placed about the necks 
 of those who were leaving, and were even twined around 
 their arms and waists. Mrs. Earle and Alice were quite 
 covered with them. 
 
 At last the gong sounded and the people bade each 
 other good-by. The band on the deck began to play 
 
 Steamship Australia 
 
 "Auld Lang Syne" and many eyes were filled with 
 tears. 
 
 Alice and Mrs. Earle stood at the side of the ship 
 and waved their handkerchiefs as long as they could 
 see the faces of their friends. They saw, for the last 
 time, the white surf beating against the reef ; the villas 
 along the curved beach at Waikiki ; Punchbowl, and 
 the high, bare summit of Diamond Head. 
 
 After they had passed the quarantine station, the 
 passengers threw overboard the leis of flowers and 
 
206 
 
 maile, not because they did not value them, but be- 
 cause that was an old Hawaiian custom. 
 
 And so they sailed away, looking backward toward 
 the island until they left far behind them this trail of 
 bright blossoms upon the smooth blue water. 
 
PRONUNCIATION OF HAWAIIAN NAMES 
 AND TERMS 
 
 A is sounded as in far ; ^ as in pr<?y j / as in machme ; o as 
 in ^Id ; 2^ as in rude ; the diphthong m like / in fine ; au like 
 ou in out. The consonants have the same sound as in English. 
 There are no silent letters. ' 
 
 ai'na. 
 
 I-o-Ia'ni. 
 
 ko'a. 
 
 a-lo'ha. 
 
 
 Ko-ha'la. 
 
 a'wa. 
 
 ka. 
 
 Ko'ko. 
 
 
 Ka-a-hu-ma'nu. 
 
 Ko'ria. 
 
 BoTci. 
 
 Kai-lu'a. 
 
 Ko-o-lau'. 
 
 
 Kai-u-la'ni. 
 
 ko'u. 
 
 e'a. 
 
 Ka-la-kau'a. 
 
 Ko u'la. 
 
 
 Ka-lau-pa'pa. 
 
 ku-hi'na nu'i. 
 
 Ha-a-li-li'o. 
 
 Ka-la-wa'o. 
 
 ku-ku'i. 
 
 Ha-le-a-ka-la'. 
 
 Ka-me-ha-me'ha. 
 
 
 Ha-le-mau-mau'. 
 
 Ka-nu'L 
 
 La-hai'na. 
 
 Ha-na-pe'pe. 
 
 Ka-pi-o-la'ni. 
 
 le'i. 
 
 Ha-wai'i. 
 
 ka'pu. 
 
 Li-ho-li'ho. 
 
 Hi'lo. 
 
 Kau-ai'. 
 
 Li-li'ha. 
 
 ho-lo'ku. 
 
 Kau-i'ke-a-o-uli. 
 
 Li-li'u-o-ka-la'ni. 
 
 Ho-no-li'i. 
 
 Kau'po, 
 
 Lo'na 
 
 Ho-no-lu'lu. 
 
 ka'va. 
 
 lu-au'. 
 
 Ho'pu. 
 
 ke. 
 
 
 
 ki-hi-kilii. 
 
 Ma-hu-ko'na. 
 
 i-a-i'a. 
 
 Ki-lau-e'a. 
 
 ma-i'le. 
 
 I-a'o. 
 
 Ki-nau'. 
 
 Ma-ka-wa'o. 
 
 207 
 
208 
 
 mau. o-he'lo. ta'ro. 
 
 Mau'i. o-hi'a. ti. 
 
 Mau'na Ke'a. 
 
 Mau'na Lo'a. Pa'li. u'a. 
 
 Mo-lo-kai'. Pau-a'hi. ula. 
 
 Pe'le. 
 
 Ni-i-hau'. po'i. Wai-a-le-a'le. 
 
 Nu-u-a'nu. po'no. Wai-ki'ki. 
 
 Pu-na-ho'u, Wai-ko'lu. 
 
 0-a'hu. Wai-lu'ku. 
 
 0-bo-o-ki'ah. ta'pa. Wai-me'a. 
 
■fb ouoZu 
 
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