■iiliiiliiiiiiiiiiiii
 
 OTHKR 
 
 WORKS ON CEYLON 
 
 BY I'flK SAME AUTHOR 
 I. 
 Golden Tips, a Description of Ceylon 
 and its Great Tea Industry.^ 
 
 //■//// 21^ Illiislratioiis Jroiii J'/io/o,i;ra/^/is hy the Author. los. 6(1. net. 
 
 " Mr. C:ivc seems to hold a brief for the whole Island of Ceylon, with its varied attrac- 
 tions . . . The charm of Cingalese life and nature is depicted with glowing colours and 
 interesting details. — Aihenccum. 
 
 " Mr. H. W. Cave has given us a most fascinating and picturesque account of Ceylon. 
 No one will road the book, with its entrancing photographs, without wishing to set out at 
 once to the enchanted island." — Westminster Gazette. 
 
 "Mr. H. W. Cave deserves well of Ceylon. He has done an immense amount of work 
 in making the attractions of the Colony known to the reading public who reside in other 
 parts of the lunpire. His latest work is a splendid eSorl." — Standard. 
 
 II. 
 
 The Ruined Cities of Ceylon. 
 
 l-OUKTH EDrj'ION. J2s. net. 
 
 " A most fascinating and beautiful book. Superlative praise is the only thing it merits." 
 — .■iiitiqiiary. 
 
 " Written in a very pleasant and scholarly style." — Spectator. 
 
 " The warmest thanks of every student of Oriental monuments are due to Mr. Henry 
 W. Cave." — Daily Chronicle. 
 
 III. 
 
 Picturesque Ceylon and Its 
 Ruined Cities. 
 
 A New Edition with 124 Photograviovs ami jj Half- Tone Engravings from 
 
 Photographs hy the Author. Demy ^to. i/ixpxj inches. 
 
 In handsome inlaid morocco, £10 los. net. 
 
 "A handsome book with illustrations after excellent photographs by the author. The 
 descriptive chapters are well written." — Saturday Review. 
 
 " Mr. Cave has scored another distinct triumph .... it is the most praiseworthy 
 attempt to paint the lily that we have seen." — Ceylon Independent. 
 
 "The book is most beautifully illustrated. Some of the pictures are of extraordinary 
 merit and the accompanying letterpress is always interesting and readable."— Pd// Mall Gazette. 
 
 " It is charmingly written and charmingly iWaslcsiled." —Black and ]Vhite. 
 
 IV. 
 
 Baudenkmaler aus Altester Zeit 
 in Ceylon. 
 
 ATacA dem Englischen des dlEXKY 11'. CAVE, M.A., F.K.G.S. 
 
 Ins Deutsche Ubertragen von Anna, Grafin v. Zech. mit 65 Vollbildtrn nach originalau/nahmen 
 des verfassers. 12s. net.
 
 This work may be obtained complete in one 
 
 volume c 
 
 f 670 pages, 12s. net., or in the 
 
 following 
 
 sections : 
 
 Section 
 
 I. Colombo, the South-West 
 
 
 Coast, and the Kelani 
 
 
 Valley. 4s. net. 
 
 Section 
 
 11. Kandy and the Highlands, 
 
 
 including Nuwara Eliya, 
 
 
 Bandarawela and Badulla. 
 
 
 6s. net. 
 
 Section 
 
 111. The Northern Provinces, 
 
 
 including Anuradhapura, 
 
 
 Jaffna, Trincomali. The 
 
 
 Pearl Fishery and Rame- 
 
 
 seram. 4s. net.
 
 SECTIONS OF 
 THE ROOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Part I 
 
 COI.OMHC), THE vSoi IhAX'ksT CoAST, AM) THIi KkI.AM X'aI.I.KY 
 
 { passes I — iqq) 
 
 Part II 
 
 KAM)^• AM) 'rm-: Hi(iHi.AM)S {Jxjgcs zoo — 514) 
 
 Part III 
 
 Thk Nokiiii:kn Pkoxincks [pogcs 515- 04c))
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON
 
 \
 
 THE LANKATILAKE TEMPLE.
 
 c 
 
 ^^?ZL^.**^^, 5. \ 
 
 THE 
 ^BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 BEING A GUIDE TO ITS RAILWAY SYSTEM AND 
 
 AN ACCOUNT OF ITS VARIED ATTRACriONS 
 
 FOR THE VISITOR AND TOURIST 
 
 BY 
 
 HENRY W. tCAVE 
 
 M.A. (OxoN.), F.R.G.S. 
 
 MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY. ALTHOR OF "GOLDEN TIPS, 
 
 " THE RUINED CITIES OF CEYLON," " COLOMBO AND THE 
 
 KELANI VALLEY," " KANDY AND PERADENIYA," 
 
 " NUWARA ELIYA AND ADAM's 
 
 PEAK " 
 
 ILLUSTRATED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS 
 BY THP: AUTHOR 
 
 CASSELL AND COMPANY'. LlMlIi D 
 London, Paris, Nf.w York, Toronto and Melboirsk. nkmvmi 
 
 ALL RH.HTS Rt SERVED
 
 PREFACE 
 
 ' I ^ HE design of this book is to help the traveller in 
 Ceylon to a fuller enjoyment of the varied attrac- 
 tions of the island, and to arouse in the general reader 
 a desire to visit a country which has only now begun 
 to receive the attention it deserves. If, as I am glad to 
 be assured, mv previous works on Ceylon have contri- 
 buted in some measure to this end, I trust the more 
 popular form of the present work will still further promote 
 the object which I have in view. 
 
 Tiu' illustrations are niainh- from photographs taken 
 by me specially for this work; they may be dejDcnded 
 upon, therefore, as representing the aspect of the ct>untrv 
 to-day. Some photographs of places and things that 
 have not changed during the last few years have been 
 introduced from my previous books. For some excellent 
 illustrations in the first section I am indebted to my 
 brotiier. Mr. A. E. Cave; for those on page 12 mv thanks 
 are due to Mr. Owen W. Henman; for Xos. 298 and Ziy) 
 to Mr. M. Kehvay Bamber. F.I.C.. I'.C .S.. M.R.A.C.. 
 and for those on pages log and 21,0 to Messrs. Piatt- \ Co. 
 
 To Mr. G. P. Greene, the general manager of the 
 Ceylon Government Railwav, I owe a debt of gratitude 
 for information and assistance in manv directions; to my 
 nephew. Mr. \V. A. Cave, I am indebted for the informa- 
 tion gi\-en about the birds of Colombo; and to the 
 Hon. Mr. j. P. Lewis, M.A., Government .Agent of tin- 
 Central Pro\ince of Cexloii, mv warmest thanks are ilue 
 
 LIBRARY
 
 xii I'RKFACP: 
 
 for his interesting' ((intrihulion on I\and\an architecture; 
 for facihties which enabled me to observe tlie native 
 manners and customs of tlie prcjvince over which he pre- 
 sides, and lor man\- other kinchiesses. And tinall)- it gives 
 me great pleasure to express my indebtedness to mv friend, 
 Mr, V. W. Langston, M.A., of .Merton College, Oxford, 
 who kindlv imdertook the reading of the whole work, and 
 whose many valuable suggestir)ns 1 gratefullv adopted. 
 
 HENRY \V. CAVF. 
 
 44, Sussex Square, Brighton. 
 January, 1908.
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 PART I 
 
 iNiKODucroRv. Geographical Features. Climate. History 
 
 The British Administration. Attractions of Cevlon. The 
 Voyage. First Glimpse ok Ceylon. The Harbour of 
 Colombo .......•• 
 
 Colombo. The Fort. How to See Colombo 
 
 The Ceylon Government Railways .... 
 
 The Coast Line Itinerary . . 
 
 The Kelani Valley ....... 
 
 The Kelani Valley Itinerary ..... 
 
 PAOKS 
 
 1-25 
 
 2O— 37 
 
 91 — 108 
 109 — 177 
 178—184 
 185—199 
 
 PART II 
 
 The Main Line Itinerary — Colombo to Peradeniya Junction 
 Peradeniya Gardens ...... 
 
 Kandy ..... 
 
 Kandyan Architecture ..... 
 
 Localities of Kanhyan Temples . . 
 
 Paddy Cultivation ..... 
 
 Administration of Rural Districts 
 
 Education in Rural Districts ..... 
 
 Galagedara and Hataralivadda .... 
 
 Teldeniya, Medamahanuwara, Urugala, and Madugoda 
 The MATALt Line Itinerary ..... 
 
 Dambulla and Sigiri ..... 
 
 Gampola to Hatton . . ... 
 
 Adam's Peak . ■ .... 
 
 Tea Planting ...... 
 
 DiMBULLA TO BaDULLA . . . ■ 
 
 NaNUOVA TO NUWARA ElIVA 
 
 Udapussellawa ........ 
 
 200—249 
 
 249—281 
 
 281-323 
 324—377 
 
 37«-3«2 
 3^2-397 
 
 397-401 
 402—405 
 405—406 
 
 406 — 426 
 42f' 433 
 4H-443 
 444—452 
 452—461 
 465-481 
 4S1-493 
 
 493-5" 
 51- 5'4 
 
 PARI" III 
 
 Northern Line Itinerary — Polgahawela to Anur.\dii.\pur.< 5^5-522 
 
 AnurAdhapuka, MiNNKRiA, and Polonnaruwa .... 522 596 
 
 AnuradiiapurA to Jaffna ....... 597 — 617 
 
 Trinco.mali ... 618 — 637 
 
 Rameseram ...... 63'** — 640 
 
 The Pearl Fishery 641 — 649
 
 MAPS AND PLANS 
 
 Map of Colombo ....... . facing page i 
 
 Map of Ceylon Showing tub Pkovinces. ... ,,27 
 
 Plan of the Harbour of Colombo .... ,, 30 
 
 Map of the Fort of Colombo ...... ,, 39 
 
 Railway Map ok Ckylon Giving Distances of Stations 
 
 and their Elevation above Sea Level ... ,, 109 
 
 Plan of the Kovai. Botanic Gardens, Peradeniya . ,, 252 
 
 Map of the Tcjwn of Kandv ...... ,, 296 
 
 Map of AnurAdhApurA . ,, 523 
 
 Plan of the Harbour of Trincomali .... ,, C19
 
 f 
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON. 
 
 PART I. 
 COLOMBO, 
 
 Thk South-Wi:st Coast, and the Kelam \'ai.lkv. 
 
 IT would be superlluous to-day to describe geographically the introductory 
 ■^ position of Ceylon on the map of the world. Thanks to 
 the greater facilities of travel in recent years, our acquaintance 
 with the most distant outposts of the empire is now more 
 intimate ih.iii could have been conceived two decades ago, 
 and Ccxlon, which at a period not very remote was little more 
 than a \ague image of poetry or romance, has become an 
 important reality to the merchant, the traveller and the student 
 of ancient civilisation and religion. 
 
 To those who have the most extensive experience of cast Ctyhm's puuc 
 and west, the claim of Ceylon to be regarded as the very gem '" "" ' "'^'"^ 
 of the earth will not seem extravagant, and the object of the 
 present work will be to afford some evidence in support of 
 this claim. Hut not on aesthetic grounds alone does Ceylon 
 deserve notii c The economic results due to its situation in 
 the eastern seas, a spot on which converge the steamshijis of 
 all nations for coal and the exchange of freight and passengers ; 
 its wealth and diversity of agricultural and mineral products ; 
 the industry of its inhabitants both colonists and nati\es — these, 
 together with its scenery and the glamour of its unri\allcd 
 remains of antic|uitv, entitle Ceylon to a place of high distinction 
 among the (Icpcndcncirs of the c'inpire. 
 
 in outline C(\ Ion rt'sembles a pear suspended Irom the (,v,>«j.i/>Ak-<i/ 
 south of ln(li;i l)\ its stalk. Its extreme length from north itatuui 
 to south is z-j\ miles; its greatest width i ;^7 miles, and its 
 area 25,000 sf|uaic miles. A grand n])he;i\;d, culminating in 
 a height of S.joo feet, occupies the south (cnlral jiart ot the 
 ishuul to the extent of 5,000 SC|Uarc miles; the whole ot this 
 surface is l)i-oken and rngtjcd, exhibiting a vast assemblage
 
 2. Till': HOOK oi- ci:s i.(j\ 
 
 Geojfraphicnl of pi(-turc.squc mountains ^)[ \;iri((l cIcMirKjn. L(.t us in 
 '"'' "'^'"'' iina^inalion ascend to tlir lii^licsl point, the lofty mountain 
 
 of I'iduiutalla^^alla, 8,300 feet al)o\c the sea, and uitli tlie 
 whole island at our feet sur\ey its geographical features. 
 Looking south, the immediate prospect presents Xuwara iiliya, 
 an extensive plateau encircled by hills and possessing two 
 lakes, a racecourse, two golf links, various clubs with their 
 recreation grounds, a well-stocked trout stream, a lovely jMihlic 
 garden, several good hotels, fine residences dotting the hill- 
 sides, many of which arc available to visitors, and for most 
 of the year a charming climate, bright and cool as an ideal 
 English spring ; and moreover possessing the important adjunct 
 of a mountain railway which conveys the enervated resident 
 from the heated plains to this elysium in a few hours. 
 
 Tht South vStill looking south we notice a gap in the surrounding- 
 
 hills through which a good carriage road passes and rapidlv 
 descends, a beautiful wooded ravine embellished by a cascaded 
 stream sacred to the goddess Sita, until at the fifth mile a 
 small ledge is reached o'crhung by the precipitous rock Hak- 
 galla. Here is one of the botanical gardens for which Cevlon 
 is famous throughout the world; a favourite spot for picnics, 
 where beneath the shade of giant tree ferns and ornamental 
 foliage that transcends description are the rolling downs of 
 Uva. Upon these patnas, as they are locally called, five 
 thousand Boer prisoners-of-war were encamped during the 
 late war, and we still see the buildings erected for their 
 accommodation ; the ground now being used for local mllltarv 
 purposes. These Uva patnas form a sort of amphitheatre 
 amongst the mountains ; the acclivity to the right ascends to 
 the Horton plains (7,000 feet above the sea), beloved of the 
 elk hunter and the fisher. Curving to the left the heights 
 form a ridge beyond which stretches a magnificent panorama 
 of undulated lowland aglow in purple heat. Here are large 
 stretches of park and forest inhabited chiefly by the elephant, 
 bear, leopard and buffalo. Still looking south but inclining 
 to the right the line of vision is in the direction of Dondra 
 Head, the southernmost point of the Island. Behind this lies 
 a fair province where tropical culture of every kind abounds 
 and flourishes : cinnamon, citronella, cocoanuts, tea and rubber 
 are the chief agricultural products, while beneath the soil lies 
 an abundance of plumbago. A gleam of light upon the coast 
 gives us the position of Hambantota ; it has the appearance 
 of surf glittering in the rays of the tropical sun ; but in 
 reality it is pure white salt ; there has been dry weather on 
 that coast, and the water of the shallow lagoons, which are 
 separated from the sea only by sandbanks, has in process of 
 evaporation deposited its salt around the banks and upon the
 
 2. NUWARA ELIYA.
 
 THE BOOK OF CI-:\LOX 5 
 
 1)((I^. In this simple \va\ Nature provides enough salt for all OeoKraphuai 
 the hall million inhabitants of the southern province. The '*°""''-''* 
 southern coast is remarkably interesting in its scenery, pro- 
 ducts, and antiquities, while its inhabitants are, perhaps, the 
 most purely Sinhalese of the whole population of the island. 
 The tourist should not lea\"e Ceylon until he has made the 
 acquaintance of every part of this province to which the 
 railway can take him. 
 
 Upon our pedestal on IMdurutallagalla we now turn to the The Wat 
 west, and face Colombo, distant from us but sixty-live miles 
 as the crow flies. For half the distame mountain ranges, 
 interlaced in intricate confusion, with peaks and spurs all 
 forest clad, lie outstretched. On their ledges and spreading over 
 their steep declivities are the thousand tea estates for which 
 the island is so justly famous. Dimbula, Lindula, Maskeliya, 
 Bogawantalawa, and Dolosbagc lie here at varying elevations. 
 They terminate where the Kelani \'alley begins its descent to 
 the lowlands and extends its cultixation to the western shore. 
 
 \\'e now make a complete turn about and survev the eastern The iimt 
 pait of the country. Here we notice the mountain railway 
 ascending from Xuwara Eliya to Kaiidapola ('i,3-3 feet) 
 whence it descends into the heart of tlie Udapussellawa tea 
 district. The lovely town of Hadulla lies twenty miles away 
 surrounded by lofty and striking mountains. Farther distant 
 at Lunugala the scenery is still more remarkable. Here the 
 eastward borders of the great central highlands arc reached, 
 and at their base a mass of forest clad foot-hills extend north- 
 ward through what is known as the Hintenne country, the 
 home of the wild man who still exists in Ceylon, a miserable 
 remnant of an aboriginal race. On the eastern coast there 
 is a long stiij) of alluxial plain extending north and south 
 for u[)wards of 150 miles and from ten to thirty miles inland. 
 I'"or the most part the land is uncultivated park, forest and 
 jungle. It is the retreat of wild animals and birds of gorgeous 
 plumage. Innumerable rivers tlow through it to the sea ; these 
 have apparently varied their course from time to time under 
 the inlluence of tropical torrents and have thus formed count- 
 less still lakes and canals, the banks of which are covered with 
 mangroves of enormous size. The east coast is centred by 
 the town of Hatticaloa, famous for its plantations of cocoanuts, 
 extending north and south for hftv miles. 
 
 Northwards the rugged and beautiful Maturatta is nearest The Sorih 
 our view, and to the left of it the better known Ramboda pass 
 leading through Pussellawa into the Kandyan country, where 
 lovelv scciKM^v, quaint customs, interesting temples and strange 
 ( crcinonials conspire to provide a \critable paradise for the 
 tourist, who heic enjo\ s (as\ means of eonimunieation and .1
 
 6 TIIK I'.OOK OI" (•I-:\L()\ 
 
 (icojrraphical [)l(;is;ml 1 cmpcrjil u t'c. l^urofX' knows nothiiii^^ of the scenes 
 features ,)|. j|,(. jjj-^ ^y^^^ jrreet us here. 'J'hci'e is nothiiii^ sombre 
 
 The Xoith "'^ monotonous in the Kandyan country. Kndless variety 
 
 characterises the landscape and vivid contrast the foliaj^e. 
 Precipitous heights and narrow passes for centuries denied 
 the white man possession of this ancient and beautiful king- 
 dom, where railways, marvels of engineering, now encircle the 
 heig^hts and a network of excellent roads affords easy access 
 to every feature of interest. In the haze as we look farther 
 north the mountains fall away in long spurs that radiate in 
 \arious directions, the farthest stretching towards the lake of 
 Minneriva, one of the greatest irrigation works of the ancients. 
 Detached hills are few and insignificant with the exception of 
 Mihintale (i,ooo feet), an object of great interest in the history 
 of Buddhism ; and the famous solitary rock of Sigiriya, the 
 fortified retreat of King Kasyapa in the fifth century. To the 
 left lies the north western province with its capital town of 
 Kurunegala, once the seat of kings. This is a lowland province 
 reaching from the northern Kandyan borders to the western 
 shore, chiefly devoted to cultivation of the cocoanut palm, of 
 which there are thirty thousand acres. Interspersed with these 
 plantations are vast stretches of paddy fields in the low lying 
 swamps. A characteristic feature of the coast is its great salt 
 lagoons, where this precious article of diet is obtained in even 
 larger quantity than at Hambantota. Still farther north and 
 stretching across the island almost from shore to shore is an 
 almost uncultivated and comparatively uninhabited province, 
 yet possessing antiquarian interest second to none in the 
 world ; for here lie the remains of ancient cities which at the 
 zenith of their greatness extended over greater areas than 
 London to-day, and contained buildings of greater size than 
 anv of which Europe can boast. The cities are surrounded 
 bv the ruins of an irrigation system still more wonderful. 
 Into the heart of this district the tourist can now journey in 
 all the luxury of a broad-gauge railway. The buildings still 
 towering hundreds of feet above the soil are open to his 
 inspection, and their history, carefully compiled from authentic 
 records, will be found later in this work. .Vfter this archaeo- 
 logical feast, a pleasant excursion may be made to Trincomale, 
 one of the most beautiful harbours in the world ; or the rail- 
 way will convey the traveller to the northernmost part of the 
 countr}', the peninsula of Jaffna, which abounds in interest 
 as being quite different from the rest of Ceylon. It is a change 
 in soil, climate, products and people. Here that born agri- 
 culturist the Tamil has brought every acre of ground under 
 cultivation ; the climate being dry, tobacco fields take the 
 place of paddv, and the beautiful palmyra palm is a special
 
 5. THE RISING MISTS OF EARLY DAWN. FROM SYSTON, MATALE. 
 
 6. THE HARBOUR OF TRINCOMALE.
 
 n 
 
 f- 
 
 7. DRIFTING MISTS. 
 
 8. SUNSET, COLOMBO.
 
 Tin-: BOOK OF c■I•:^■I.()^■ 9 
 
 charartciistic ol the laiulMjipc. I'hc absence of riM-rs in the 
 peninsula is noliccable, the hjiid being fertilised by lihratit)n 
 from large shallow estuaries. 
 
 Not the least of its attractions arc the great variety and ^^''mate 
 choice of climate that Ceylon affords. I'ortunately the best 
 months for visiting the country arc those which in luirope are 
 the most disagreeable. Vhc recent extensions of the railway 
 system in rendering the ruined cities easily and comfortably 
 accessible ha\e made Ceylon more than ever a desirable retreat 
 during winter months; and if it has not yet rivalled l^gypt 
 in popularit\' the circumstance is due less to its climate and 
 attractions than its distance. For general salubrity it is 
 unrivalled in the I'^ast. Notwithstanding the \arietv of tem- 
 perature to be met witli at \arious stations and elevations, 
 the equability of each is remarkable, and stands in great con- 
 trast to the fickleness of European weather. Classification of 
 the climate of Ceylon is easy : (i.) moist and hot but tempered Tcmf'craturc 
 bv cool sea breezes, with a temperature ol 75, to 85° V. as 
 in most of the maritime proxiiKX's, including the towns of 
 Ncgombo, Colombo, Kalutara, (lalli- and Matara ; (ii.) hot 
 and dry, as the north-west coast and the peninsula of Jaffna ; 
 (iii.) humid and warm, as in the hillv regions bordering the 
 great mountain belt, with a shade temperature of 75° I*", bv 
 day and 70° V. by night; and (iv.) temperate, as in the lia 
 districts of the mountain zone, where the shade temperature 
 a\'erages 1)\ da\ from 70° to C^^° V. according to elexation, 
 aspect and other causes. The animal rainfall i^ Ii'ss tiian u.iinjiill 
 50 inches in Jaffna, the north-west, and the south-east ; from 
 50 to y^ inches in the north-east; 75 to 100 inches in a Ix h 
 of twenty miles width surrounding the tnountain zone; and 
 fi^om 100 to joo inches in tlie tea-count rw 'I'hc occurrence of 
 rain can be anticipated with fair accurac\', and the seasons 
 for hea\ \- downpours regularly coincide with the change of the 
 monsoons. I-'rom Octolxr to Mav north-east winds prevail; 
 for the rest of the \(ar the south-west monsoon blows con- Moiuonns 
 tinually. To the inlluence of these monsoons and tlie uniform 
 temperature of the surrounding oceans the e(|uable and tem- 
 perate character of the Ceylon climate is mainly due. .\pril. 
 May, October and Noxember arc the wettest months. .As much iiv//<-s/ 
 as 5^ inches lias been ici^islcicd in Colombo during October '""""" 
 and Xoxcmber. These months aic th<'refore to l)c a\'oidcd bv 
 the tourist. .\uL;ust and S( ptembcr aic ofli n di ligiitful months 
 in Ceylon, and althou>4h tiny do not suit tiie ti-a\"ellcr from 
 Europe, lhe\- aic in faxour with the iuM'opcan resident of 
 India, Hnrni.ih and the Straits Set t Icincnts, who is beginning 
 to find that a \Isit to ('c\Ion for h -ahh and pl<-asure is the 
 most nrolilahlc within Iiis reach.
 
 Till': IU)()K ()!• CliNI.OX 
 
 Climate 
 
 Floyji 
 
 Climate in 
 Dcconber 
 
 January 
 
 It is i)crha])s scarcclv necessary to remark that there are no 
 seasons in Cexlon as \\c know them in l'!ur()|)e; tiic dillercnee in 
 the liot (hsiricts lies between hot and a little hott r, and in more 
 temperate districts l:)et\\een cool and a little cooler. Tcnnent, 
 in a passai^c that cannot be improved upon, says : " No period 
 of the year is divested of its seed-time and its harvest in some 
 part of the island ; the fruit han^s ripe on the same branches 
 that are i^arlanded with opening buds. But as every plant has 
 its own period for the production of its flowers and fruit, each 
 month is characterised by its own peculiar flora. As regards 
 the foliage of the trees, it might be expected that the variety 
 of tints would be wanting which form the charm of a European 
 landscape, and that all nature would wear one mantle of 
 imchanging green. But, although in Ceylon there is no 
 re\'olution of seasons, the change of leaf on the same plant 
 exhibits colours as bright as those which tinge the autumnal 
 woods of America. It is not the decaying leaves, but the fresh 
 shoots, which exhibit these bright colours, the older arc still 
 vividly green, whilst the young are bursting forth; and the 
 extremities of the branches present tufts of pale yellow, pink, 
 crimson, and purple, which give them at a distance the appear- 
 ance of a cluster of flowers." 
 
 It may be useful to the intending visitor to indicate the 
 sort of weather he is likely to meet with at the various centres 
 of interest in each of the months usuall}- chosen for visiting 
 Ceylon. 
 
 During December Colombo is in man\' respects pleasanter 
 than at any other time of the year. It is cloudy and compara- 
 tively cool, and has an average rainfall of six inches for the 
 month, whii^h scr^•es w'ell to keep the vegetation at its best, 
 and the golf links and other recreation grounds in good con- 
 dition. The rain seldom keeps the visitor prisoner for more 
 than \'erv few hours, while the longer intervals of fine weather 
 are di'lightful. The same conditions apply to the south coast 
 and to Kandy. In Nuwara Eliya the fine weather and the 
 wet are about equal. Anuradhapura expects wet days ; but 
 during the fine intervals is more attractive by reason of the 
 lakes and pokunas being well filled with water. Jaffna is 
 agreeable, and its well-tilled fields look smiling and pleasant. 
 
 Januarv is on the whole a better month for the ^'isitor. 
 The winds are dry and cool, and it is necessary in Colombo 
 to avoid sitting in them when heated from exercise, or sleeping 
 with windows open to the north. The nights are refreshing, 
 and early morning exercise pleasant. It is a good month for 
 visiting the many towms of interest on the south and south- 
 west coasts. Kandy is cool and delightful and admits of sleep 
 beneath the blanket, while in the mornings and evenings
 
 9. MOUNTAINOUS SPRAY, COLOMBO. 
 
 10. A MASSIVE BREAKER, COLOMBO.
 
 n. ANCIENT IRRIGATION WORKS. 
 
 ( Phctografh by One>i IV. Ho 
 
 THE GIANTS 
 nan, Esq.) 
 
 ANCIENT IRRIGATION WORKS. THE GIANTS TANK. 
 ( Fhotografh by Oiuen JV. Haitnan, Esq.*
 
 THE ]UH)K oi- ei:\i.().\ 13 
 
 vii^orous walking- can be indulged in with pleasure. Nuwara climate 
 Eliya has now a mean temperature ol 5*)° F. Fires in the Junuary 
 evening are comfortable, while the early mornings are often 
 frosty. The rainfall here averages 6 inches during this month ; 
 but the fine days are glorious. Anuradhapura has not definitely 
 arrived at its fine weather period; but is generall\' pleasant. 
 It is perhaps sufficient to say that all the photographs in this 
 book illustrating the ruins of the city were taken during the 
 month of January. Jaffna is quite at its best and much cooler 
 than in the later months. 
 
 In February Coloml^o is dr)- ; the nights are cloudless and lei'iu.uy 
 cool. In Kandy it is the finest month of the year; the days 
 are bright and sunny ; the early mornings cold ; the evenings 
 most agreeable and the nights dewy. Nuwara Eliya is also 
 in its best mood, and is probably at this time as regards climate 
 the pleasantest spot on the earth. I'"ebruary is also a good 
 month for visiting .Anuradhapura, and quite the best for trips 
 to Dambulla, Sigiriya and I'olonnaruwa. Jaffna is also fine, 
 and although it is much warmer than in January it is not }et 
 too hot to be pleasant. 
 
 In March the heat in Colombo increases rapidly, the earth .\tnrcii 
 receiving more heat than is lost by radiation and e\aporation. 
 The temperature rises to 87° F. during the day and seldom 
 descends below So° F. at night. There is consequently 
 amongst Europeans a general exodus to the hills. Kandy is 
 rather warmer than in February ; the range of the thermometer 
 has decreased and the morning air has lost its crispness ; but 
 the climate is pleasant and the month is a good one for the 
 tourist. Nuwara Eliya is still delightful as in February, but 
 with diminishing range of temperature, the nights being less 
 cold. At the ruined cities the conditions are favourable to 
 tlic \ isitor, the month being quite fine. Jaffna becomes hot; 
 but not unbearably so, and the tourist should not leave it out 
 of his itinerary. 
 
 Three thousand \ears ago, when the .Sanskrit speaking history 
 .\ryans of the north of India had not as yet emerged from .in,i»i 
 obscurity, the whole of Ceylon was peopled by barbarous tribes, <"/""'^'^ 
 a wretched remnant of whom still exist in the wilds of the 
 Hintenne i-ountr}. Hut before the dawn of civilisation fell 
 ujjon l^igland, histoix tells us of the marvellous colonisation 
 of Ceylon. People of the .\ryan race had disco\ered the 
 wonderful resources of this beautiful island, had conquereti 
 and colonised it, and l)v a svstem of irrigation, which is the 
 .idmiratiim ol the greatest engineeis ol our own time. Iia<l 
 brought the whole countr}' into a high state of culture; more- 
 over thev had built beautiful cities, the remains of which at 
 this (la\ hold a pre-eminent jiosition amongst the wonders of
 
 14 'II II". 1U)()K Ol- LEYl.OX 
 
 History (I,,, world. Wlu'ii wc comc fully into the doin.'iin ol ;iiitli(nlic 
 history, some three centuries before the prcsenl era, ue I'md 
 these people of the Aryan race a great nation of Sinhalese in 
 a hiqh slate of (Mvihsation for the period, and numhcrint^ jirob- 
 al)l\ 1(11 millions. lUil as the centuries rolled on, e\il times 
 The lell upon them. The Dravidian races of southern India were 
 
 lavu unis )j(.(-Qnini{4- powerful and made frequent incursions upon them, 
 overthrowinj^ their kingdom, plundering their treasures, and 
 even occupying the Sinhalese throne for long periods. The 
 story is supremel}- interesting, and will fascinate the tourist 
 who explores the relics of Ceylon's bygone greatness as set 
 forth and illustrated in the antiquarian section of this work. 
 Here he may read the details of the rise and fall of a great 
 nation, and may by a personal examination of the remains as 
 they appear to-day verify the wonderful story. 
 Tjic The first intrusion of the white man took place in the year 
 
 oitugnese i -06, when the Portuguese, who had for eight years main- 
 tained a fleet in Indian waters, accidentally discovered Ceylon 
 when on a piratical expedition for the capture of Moorish 
 vessels trading between Cambay and Sumatra. On this 
 occasion, after some palaver with the owners of Moorish ships 
 off Colombo, the Portuguese captain. Major Dom Lourenco, 
 sent an embassy to the King at Cotta, who entered into a 
 treaty of mutual friendship and trade, and moreover permitted 
 the erection of a stone monument to be erected at Colombo 
 to commemorate the discovery of Ceylon. Historians are not 
 altogether in agreement about this event; but there still exists 
 a rock near the harbour of Colombo engraved with the Portu- 
 guese Royal Arms and the date 1501. It is however difTicult 
 to reconcile the engraved date with the general historical facts 
 of the period, which go to prove the year 1506 as the date of 
 discovery. The Portuguese remained but a short time upon 
 their first visit, but kept up intercourse with Ceylon in the 
 three-fold character of merchants, missionaries and pirates, a 
 combination which they had found effective in obtaining settle- 
 ments in the Persian Gulf, India and Malacca, and a few vears 
 later they obtained a stronghold at Colombo. The period was 
 favourable to their enterprise. Political authoritv throughout 
 Ceylon had become divided amongst numerous minor kings 
 or chiefs who held imitation courts in at least half a dozen 
 petty capitals. The north was in possession of the Tamils, 
 and the sea ports were controlled by Moors. The monarch 
 of the south-west was Dharma Parakrama IX., whose good- 
 will was craftily gained by a promise on the part of the 
 Portuguese admiral to aid him with militarv services in his 
 difficulties due to the intrigues and ambitions of other claimants 
 to the throne. Thus did the Portuguese first ol^tain their
 
 14. PORTUGUESE REMAINS AT JAFFNA.
 
 1 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 !■ 
 
 
 
 15. PORTUGUESE REMAINS AT JAFFNA. 
 
 16. NAVAL ENGAGEMENT BETWEEN DUTCH AND PORTUGUESE. 
 
 (Baldaus.)
 
 Tin-: HOOK oi- c i:\i.o\ 17 
 
 footiiii; ill Colombo. TIun' soon (,'rcitccl a lort, uinicr tlu- i^uns Mistury 
 of which lhi\- c-ould trade in spitr of the hostihty ul the Nhiors ; y;,^ 
 and although the hitter besici^cd them for many months they Poriuguese 
 succeeded in estabHshins,'- themselves securely, eventually j^ain- '" '^ "" 
 in^ possession of all the maritime provinces, of which they 
 remained the masters for one hundred and iifty years. lUit 
 for them Ce> Ion pro\ ed a hornets' nest rather than a bed of 
 roses. The Sinhalese of the interior did nol at all appro\c of 
 the alliance between Parakrama and tlu' ICurojxans, and with 
 remarkable courai^c they attacked the allies persistently, and 
 with such vii^our that by the year 1 5(1;, the royal stronijhold 
 of Cotta fell, and the Inmiiliatcd kini; t licncc forward resided 
 within the walls of Colombo under the more immediate pro- 
 tection of the Portuguese guns. .So bitterly was the intrusion 
 of the I'ortuguesc resented by the majority of the Sinhalese 
 that all their settlements on the coast were frequently attacked 
 and the inhabitants put to death. The struggle lasted without 
 intermission for one hundred and Iifty years. It is impossible 
 not to admire the spirit of patriotism which sustained tlu; 
 Sinhalese in tluir continual warfai'c o\ er so long a period. 
 The arts of war introduced b\ the foreigner wcic so rapidly 
 learnt and imj^roNed upon, cspcci;i!ly in the inanulaclure of 
 weapons, that they excellt d tlie Portuguese, and on nioic than 
 one occasion defeated tlicin in the held owing to superior 
 accjuaintanee with the use of arms and the tactics that had 
 been first emplcned against llicin. Moreover these sturdy 
 patriots had to contend not only with the Portuguese, but with 
 large bands of their own countrymen who had been won over 
 to the enemv. It was an easy task for the luiropeaiis to take 
 advantage of the rivalries amongst the pett\- kings and chief- 
 tains, and thev were not slow to a\ail themsehcs of their 
 opportunities. For ob\ious reasons the details of the struggle 
 cannot be introduced here, but the tourist who can spare the 
 time to l()o]< u[) the local Iiislory of the period in the work of 
 Tennent and other authorities will l)e the better c|ualified to 
 appreciate the Portuguese innuence that is still obser\a])le in 
 the countr\-, and to discern other results of the efforts of the 
 iii'st luiro])ean colonists in Ce\ Ion which will be brouL;ht before 
 him in these pages. 
 
 At length Cevlon was lost to the Portuguese, who were The DuUh 
 succeeded bv the Dutch under circumstances that may shortly 
 be told. The Portuguese had been in possession of the carrying 
 trade between h'urope and the ICast for nc-arly a century when 
 Philip II. of Spain acquired the kingdom of Portugal and at 
 the same time lost the allegiance of the I'nited Proxinces, who 
 in their struggli- for independence organised a powerful navy 
 to protect their merchant vessels engaged in sea carriage 
 C
 
 i8 'nil'; I'.ooK ()!• cm LO\ 
 
 History bctwfcn Iuii()|)(;in ])()its. I'liilip strurk at this commerce, and 
 in so (Joins; ullimalcly brought disaster upon the Portui^ucsc. 
 The Dutc-h cairicd on a considerable trade upon the Taj^us in 
 purchasing- the cargoes broui^ht from the East by the Portu- 
 i^ucse and transporting^ them to the northern capital. This 
 traffic being interrupted by the short-sighted policy of Philip, 
 th(; Dutch turned their attention to the Kast and sub\crtcd the 
 Arrival of Portuguese monopoly there. In May 1602 the first Dutih 
 ihe Dutch ^j^jp ^^.j^,-, jp Ceylon anchored off Hatticaloa. Its commander, 
 Spilbcrg, with some difliculty ingratiated himself with the local 
 chief who facilitated his journey to Kandy, where he offered 
 King VVimala Dharma an offensive and defensive alliance with 
 the Prince of Orange. This alliance was accepted with alacrity, 
 the Kandyan king being delighted at the prospect of ousting 
 his bitter enemies the Portuguese. This was eventually accom- 
 plished ; but the event did not accord with the aspirations which 
 Spilberg had excited in the heart of the King. De Weert, 
 who undertook the first cruise against the Portuguese, when 
 under the influence of wine insulted the King, who instantly 
 ordered his attendants to arrest him. Upon his offering 
 resistance he was immediately killed. For the few years subse- 
 quent to this event the Dutch do not appear to have made any 
 further attempt to obtain a footing in the island ; and mean- 
 while King Wimala Dharma died. His brother Senerat married 
 the widowed Queen and in the year 1609 a renewal of the 
 alliance was made, followed by a treaty which gave permission 
 to the Dutch to erect a fort at Cottiar on the north-east coast, 
 and secured to them trade monopolies in return for promised 
 military aid against the Portuguese. But the fort when erected 
 was promptly destroyed by the Portuguese. The Dutch played 
 fast and loose with their Kandyan allies and for the next decade 
 the Portuguese were in the ascendant. In 1627 Senerat, seeing 
 his kingdom encircled by Portuguese garrisons, and being 
 deserted by his Dutch allies, made a great effort. He suc- 
 ceeded in kindling a national movement, organised a con- 
 spiracy amongst the low country chiefs who had gone over to 
 the Portuguese, and with their aid deluded the governor at 
 Colombo into leading his European army against Uva, where 
 they were deserted by all their low country Sinhalese adherents, 
 entrapped and slaughtered. The head of the Portuguese, 
 Governor Constantine de Saa, was presented to the crown 
 prince, who shortly after came to the Kandyan throne as Rajah 
 Sinha II., and during his reign the Portuguese were finally 
 expelled from Ceylon. This however was not accomplished 
 until the lapse of twenty-four years. Rajah Sinha, notwith- 
 standing the heavy blow which his predecessor had dealt the 
 Portuguese just before his death, could not hope to get rid of
 
 17. MURDER OF A DUTCH COMMANDER BY THE SINHALESE. 
 
 lb. DEATH OF DE WEERT. 
 {nalddus.)
 
 EFim 
 
 
 19. RAJAH SINHA RECEIVES THE DUTCH GENERAL AT KANDY. 
 
 20. THE TAKING OF GALLE BY THE DUTCH. 
 {Bahlaus.j
 
 Till-: JU)()K ()!• C"K\LO.\ 
 
 The Dutch 
 in Ceylon 
 
 them without assistance; he therefore appeaKcl to the I)ut(h History 
 at Hatavia, where they had a powerful fleet, and iiuited them 
 to join him in a great effort to expel the I'orluguese from 
 CeylcMi. 'J'he invitation was accepted and a twenty-years' 
 conflict began. One after another the coast forts fell to the 
 Dutch. Batticaloa, Trincomalc, Negombo, Matara, dalle wen- 
 all in their hands, and the investment of Colombo itself was 
 already complete before Rajah Sinha realised that the efforts 
 and sacriflces he was making would end only in the exchange 
 of one enem\- for another. The i)owtr ol tiie Dutch now 
 alarmed him, and he began to favour the Portuguese, per- 
 mitting them to re-capture Negombo while he himself refused 
 to capture Colombo, although he could ha\e occupied it easily. 
 The unexpected then happened. I'L\ents in I'Airope led to an 
 armistice between Portugal and Holland with the result that 
 Rajah Sinha was confronted with the sight of the two armies 
 at peace with one another and respectively occupying the terri- 
 tories in Ceylon which they had previously conquered. He now 
 saw the hopelessness of attempting to get rid of both and 
 adopted the policy of stirring up strife between them. The 
 Dutch preserved their self-possession and persuaded the King 
 that all his troubles were due to the machinations of the Portu- 
 guese. The aim of the Dutch was to obtain the monopoly 
 of the cinnamon trade with the possession of the gardens, and 
 to this end they approached Rajah Sinha with flattery, bribes 
 and servility. Matters had begun to assume a quieter aspect 
 when events in Europe again affected the destinies of Ceylon. 
 In 1(150 the truce between Portugal and Holland ended, and 
 a declaration of war by the Netherlands followed in 1(152. 
 Thus the Dutch and Portuguese in Ceylon were again brought 
 into deadly rivalry. Rajah Sinha favoured the Dutch, (ialle 
 and Kalutara were first taken, and after a severe struggle, 
 lasting for seven months, Colombo capitulated on May 17th, 
 
 The Dutch were now masters of everv port in the island; 
 hut they had taken them in the name of Rajah Sinha, acting 
 imd, r a ticatv with that monarch so worded that he had a 
 right to expect '.Iinii to regard themselves as occupying the 
 recovered territories on his bihalf. They pri-ferred, however, 
 to place on the treatx' an interpretation more favourable to 
 themselves, and occujiied the fortresses as their own by right 
 of conquist. Thus the Kandyans were duped, and found that, 
 notwithstanding their brave efforts, they had merely i-xchanged 
 Portuguese for Hollander, and wer^' still confined to their fast- 
 nesses in the central mountain zone. I'niike the Portuguese 
 the Dut(Mi dissipated ikmic of their slicngth in fanatical mis- 
 sionary zeal; their whole ihoui'lil and eneri'V were diidted 
 
 The 
 
 Portuguese 
 
 c\pdUd
 
 22 1 1 II-; i;()()K (>!■ c■|•:^■I.().\ 
 
 History (,, scvuiiiii^ ti'adc monopoly. J>\ means ol a slrmg (jf <(i'cally 
 Diiiih joiii improved lorts at all the ports ser\in^ the cinnamon country 
 and other rich parts of the island they were able to repel the 
 incursions of the Kandyans, and to insure that nothing' was 
 exported save through their factories. The remains of their 
 forts at this day abundantly prove how thoroughly they carried 
 out this policy. The bra\e Kandyans, enduring all this with 
 impatience, frequently put them to the sword, heaped upon 
 them contumely and outrage, and even executed their ambas- 
 Duicii f'oiicy sadors. To such treatment the Dutch replied only with further 
 blandishments and presents and new embassies, by which 
 means they sought to allay resentment while they secured 
 the wealth and produce of the country and shipped it, not 
 onl\- to Europe, but to India, Persia and other countries of 
 the East. Commerce was their one and only object, and to 
 preserve this a policy unworthy of conquerors was maintained 
 towards the Kandyans during the whole of the Dutch period 
 in Ceylon. It was in fact a policy of obtaining- wealth by any 
 and every artifice, a method not unknown to or unpractised 
 by even prouder nations at this period. 
 The British We have seen how in turn the Portuguese and the Dutch 
 
 vccupatwn. (^.^^le into partial possession of Ceylon and what use they made 
 of their conquests. A\'e now proceed to the British period and 
 the consideration of the social and economic changes that 
 followed on the British occupation. The attention of Great 
 Britain was not turned to Ceylon with ideas of conquest until 
 late in the eighteenth century, when it became absolutely 
 necessary that it should be added to the Indian possessions of 
 the British Crown. The Dutch had never done more than 
 occupy the maritime provinces in military fashion. It remained 
 for the British to introduce civilised colonisation throughout the 
 length and breadth of the island, and to develop its resources. 
 The rupture between Great Britain and Holland in 1795 was 
 the occasion of sending a force against Ceylon. The King of 
 Kandy was as anxious now to ally himself with the English 
 for the expulsion of the Dutch as his predecessor had been to 
 ally himself with the Dutch to oust the Portuguese ; but before 
 negotiations could be concluded the British had taken posses- 
 sion of all the fortresses. Trincomale, after a three weeks' 
 siege, was the first to fall ; Jaffna next surrendered ; Calpentvn 
 and Negombo were in turn occupied ; Colombo and the rest 
 capitulated, and by February i6tli, 1796, the occupation was 
 complete. The Dutch were not driven out by the English as 
 the I'ortuguese had been by the Dutch. On the contrarv their 
 property was preserved to them, their institutions were upheld, 
 their code of laws adopted, and public offices of trust were 
 awarded to them whic-h their descendants hold to this dav.
 
 ^ T' 
 
 21. THE DUTCH FORT AT BATTICALOA. 
 
 22. DUTCH CHURCH AT JAFFNA.
 
 23. QUEEN STREET COLOMBO, FROM THE GORDON GARDENS. 
 
 24. QUEEN STREET, COLOMBO, FROM GALLE FACE.
 
 rill'; iiooIk ()!• ( I'Ni.oN 25 
 
 A short period ol miMiiaiiai4\ mcnt tOllouxtl tlu- aniK-xation. History 
 The administration ol the new colony was placed in the hands y^,, UfUish 
 of the Ciovernor of Madras who ^ave great offence to the •" CeyUm 
 Sinhalese by sending- over incompetent civilians assisted by 
 Malabar subordinates to collect the revenues. The unwisdom 
 of this policy was, however, soon rectified by the home govern- 
 ment, who decided that Ceylon should be go\erned by the 
 Crown direct by nnaii^ of a responsible (lovernor and ci\il 
 oiliccrs appointed by the King. The beneficent policy thus A'f^"" "/ 
 introduced gradually wrought the change that has made Ceylon ""'"'" 
 one of the freest, happiest, most prosperous and attractive 
 countries in the world. 
 
 What a century of British rule has accomplished for Ceylon 
 the tourist will see for himself as he explores the island with 
 the assistance and information proffered in these pages. 1 
 do not here refer to the dilliculties with which the British had 
 to contend before the Kand\ans sul^mitted to the new govern- 
 ment or do 1 explain the methods which brought about tin- 
 great amelioration now enjoyed by all races that inhabit tlu- 
 island. It will be of greater interosr to the traveller to learn 
 the.sc things as he journevs nwv tlie ground w hi-ri- historical 
 incidents have occuirt-d, where tlu' ini]3ro\ ement in ci\il life 
 is most manifest, and w lure iH-ononiie ])rogress has been most 
 notici'able. 
 
 We ha\e seen how our predecessors came into pos.session The iintiih 
 of Ceylon, what use ilie\ made of it, and how and when it was "'^"JJ,'',"" 
 translerred to us. Helore proceeding to (~on.si(k'r how wt- have 
 dealt with it and what are its present attractions it mav be 
 of interest to describe the system of administration. 
 
 It is a common error to suppose that Ceylon is controlled 
 \)v the administration of India. I'>thnologicallv onlv is it part 
 ol India. (leographicalK , politicallv and in e\t'r\' other wa\' 
 it is distinct from the adjoining continent. Its svstem of 
 government is that of a Crown Colon\, which literallv means 
 autocratic rule I)\' the niinist( r who happens for the time being 
 to preside over the Colonial ()rrKc in London; but the actual 
 administration is in the hands of a (lo\ernor, assisted by an 
 I". xecLitivc Council of the chief five oHicials in the Colony. 
 I li!' loc.'d legislature consists of the Cioxcrnor, the above coun- 
 eilloi's, loui' otliei" i^o\(rninent ollieials ol the cix d ser\ice and 
 eii^lit imoHicial members ai^poinled b\- the (ioxt-rnor. l-iom 
 this preponderance ol ollieials and the circumstance that all 
 ordinane .s are sul)je<'1 to the sanction or veto of the Secri-tary 
 of State in London it will be seen that the people ha\e littli' 
 \i)iee in the governnuMit of the colony. Nevertheless public 
 o|)inion thi'ough the press has its inlluenee upon the council, 
 which usiialh acts with wisdom and diseietion. The fail that
 
 26 I III': HOOK oi'" c•|•:^■|.o^■ 
 
 The British ;ill scdions aiul (hisses of tli ■ popiilalion arc prosperous and 
 Administration coiitcnU'd is the bcst defence of llie system, which, however 
 objectionable it may seem in theory, works well in practice. 
 The power and responsibility for good or ill placed in the 
 hands of (i()\ crnors of Ceylon have never been misused. I Ik' 
 Governors ha\'e been a series of men remarkable for th( ir 
 industry and their capacity for directing the destinies of the 
 country placed in their charge, and to them is mainly due its 
 preseiit high place amongst British possessions. 
 
 The Governor receives his appointment from the Crown, 
 generally for a term of six years, and his powers are con- 
 trolled only by the authority of the Crown. The adoption or 
 rejection of the advice and enactments of his councils and 
 legislature rests entirely with himself. He can overrule their 
 deliberations or nullify their labours ; but the necessity for 
 such extreme measures has scarcely ever arisen. The functions 
 of government are carried out by a civil service organised on 
 the model of that of India. Each of the nine provinces into 
 which the island is divided has its chief and assistant govern- 
 ment agents, who are responsible to the central Government. 
 Details of their important duties and the organisation of the 
 administration carried out by them will be gathered in the 
 accounts of the various provinces through which the traveller 
 will be conducted. 
 Attractions "fhc attractions of Ceylon are manifold and appeal to a 
 
 of Ceylon variety of tastes and needs. First of all the economic condi- 
 
 tions of the country are encouraging to the capitalist who 
 devotes his energies to tropical agriculture as a means of 
 increasing wealth ; tea, rubber and cocoanuts flourish remark- 
 ably and seldom fail to yield an abundant return to the careful 
 investor. Many people visit Ceylon in search of health, or 
 to escape the rigours of the European winter, and it is 
 noticeable that the visit once made is often repeated. As a 
 health resort Ceylon not only possesses a warm and equable 
 climate, but the recommendation of complete change of scene. 
 To the enervated European residents of the plains of India it 
 is a veritable paradise ; they are discovering that a visit to 
 Kandy and Nuwara Eliya is not only a source of health but 
 of enjoyment, and that it restores their vanished energies 
 without the great expenditure of time and money involved in 
 a voyage to Europe. At any rate a visit to Ceylon during the 
 Indian hot season offers many more advantages than the usual 
 sojourn in a hill station in India itself. The change of air 
 and of scene is more complete. To the leisured classes the 
 attractions of Ceylon are perhaps the greatest, and it is satis- 
 factory to be able to assure the public that consideration for 
 their comfort and convenience is alwavs increasing. The
 
 Kaj%iusmft ttir94 
 
 i 
 
 XIAP 
 
 of tbr 
 
 ISLANDoi C£YLON 
 
 ScMlr of 3 jUlltSlo tnh\rtt 
 
 ^Z 
 
 \fti|] ff TttTVTl 
 
 **'»Vi 
 
 Pro¥incf Soundcrits .♦■- 
 
 OiStrfCt , - . 
 
 tncumftlf* 
 
 KtQom bo
 
 THE BOOK OF CICVLOX 29 
 
 northern rail\va\ has added immensely to the opportunities Attractiom 
 of the visitor who ean now explore the most remarkable *•' Ceylon 
 antiquities in the world with a reasonable expenditure of time 
 and in perfect comfort. Every leisured taste can be gratified 
 — whether it be antiquarian, sesthetic, ethnoloj^ical, entomo- 
 logical, botanical or sporting ; and when it is considered that 
 the gratification of such tastes can be accomplished in such 
 an agreeable climate and during a period when the very 
 opposite conditions prevail in ICurope it is almost a wonder 
 that anv who can avail themselves of these opportunities fail 
 to do so. In this age of the open-air cure, what more per- 
 fectlv suital)le can be imagiiucl than this land of open doors 
 and windows, where there is no cliill in the breeze or miasma 
 in the draught; but everywhere a genial and health-giving 
 atmosphere. 
 
 Colombo being the " Clapham junction " of the Eastern The \o>aKe 
 shipping world, it can be easily reached from any part of the 
 earth. From Europe the choice of steamer and route is too 
 extensive for detailed mention here; it may however be stated 
 generally that for those who like a long sea voyage it is 
 desirable to embark in London or Liverpool, in which case 
 the time of the voyage will be from twenty-two to twenty-five 
 days. Steamships arc now so large and luxurious that there 
 is no longer fear of any considerable discomfort from rough 
 weather for the moderatelv good sailnr. Moreover, if he likes 
 the sea and deri\es benefit from it he will get more for his 
 money by avoiding the continental routes. On the other hand 
 the indifferent sailor or the traveller to whom time is an 
 object will do well to embark at Marseilles, Genoa or Naples ; 
 while one in great haste will accompany the mails viti Brindisi, 
 whence he will dash across to Port Said, regardless of weather, 
 in the diminutive Isis or Osiris at a speed which gi\es rise to 
 motion that has not all the quality of poetry. The tra\eller 
 so pressed mav reach Cevlon in fifteen davs ; nine of which 
 will be pleasant enough ; for at Port Said he will tranship to the 
 •Australian mail steamship and come down to a speed of 375 
 miles a dav. The route t'/V/ Marseilles is pri'ferable and gives 
 a wider choice of steamships. The time taken from London 
 to Colomljo 7'iii Marseilles is se\enteen to eighteen days. 
 
 Till- character of tlu' first glimpse of Cevlon neci-ssarily First Ki'mp-*-" 
 \ aries w ith the time of da\ and the atmospheric C(>nditi(»ns "* Ccvion 
 that may be prevailing. During the north-east monsoon, from 
 October to April, which is the best season for \isiting Ceylon, 
 the conditions are generally favourable, and the scene which 
 unfolds itself to us if wc are earlv risers, and ha\'e the t;ood 
 fortune to approach the coast at break of da\', is one of uniqm- 
 beautv.
 
 Colombo 
 
 30 rill': HOOK ()!• (•I•:^■I.o\" 
 
 l-irst jrlimpse Wv hcliold liisl tile ni()iml;iiii zone, s;nrcd to tea ijrodui tion, 
 
 of Ceylon risiiit;- in one Miii^filx' uphcaxal Iroin the j)laiiis of Ceylon, and 
 
 ('ai)[)C(l in llic icntrc by llic Ncncralcd ])cak named after our 
 first parent. 'Jhc mists arc as yet lying- in the valleys, and 
 the cool bku; tones above them ^^ive us the true contour of 
 those fertiU? mountains upon which millions of tea bushes arc 
 nourishing-. At different elevations there are four extensive 
 Icdg-cs which appear to rise abruptly from the base, and from 
 these a number of lofty mountains raise their rugg^cd brows to 
 the height of 5,000 to S,ooo feet. Here we get the best idea 
 of the formation of those highlands which we shall presently 
 explore, whose deep ravines and g-rassy plains, dense forests 
 and open valleys, gentle streams and roaring cataracts, no 
 less than their tens of thousands of acres of tea, we shall sec 
 in the fuller detail of closer view. 
 Approaching As wc approach nearer and nearer we sec the mists arise, 
 
 attracted upwards by the rays of the rising sun, and a scene 
 of verdant loveliness is disclosed which stands in welcome con- 
 trast to the parched and barren shores we have left behind 
 at Suez and Aden. The mountains are now lost to view and 
 the details of the beautiful palm-fringed shores gradually 
 increase as we steam towards the harbour. 
 
 A few objects rising- from the mass of foliage arouse our 
 curiosity during the last three or four miles of our approach. 
 On the extreme right is Mount Lavinia Hotel, scAcn miles 
 south of the harbour. Galle Face, a lawn of some three 
 hundred acres, devoted to cricket, hockey, football and a 
 seaside esplanade, appears prominently on the starboard bow ; 
 and it will be noticed that the greensward terminates at the 
 south and in an extensive and handsome building which is 
 Gallc Face Hotel. The building of oval shape near the hotel 
 is the Colombo Club. Straight ahead we notice the dome of the 
 Roman Catholic Cathedral, to the left of which appears the 
 tower of the Anglican Cathedral ; while on the right of it are 
 the Dutch Church of Wolfendahl and the spire of the Anglican 
 Sinhalese Church of All Saints. 
 Entering the Now WC cntcr thc harbour and the eye is filled by the 
 
 luxuriant life and the brilliant light that combine to greet us. 
 We glance for a moment at the noble breakwaters fixed so 
 firmlv in the ocean bed that year after year they with- 
 stand the masses of sea hurled upon them by the fury of the 
 monsoons. 
 
 The (construction of the harbour was begun in the year of 
 King Edward's visit to Ceylon, 1875, and the first block of 
 the south-west arm, which is 4,000 feet long, was laid by 
 his Majestv (then Prince of Wales"). The complete scheme 
 will be seen upon reference to our map. It comprises three 
 
 Iiaibour
 
 26. THE PALM-FRINGED SHORE. 
 
 
 ,^^\\.^r^^ • 
 
 ;i.S.ii» 
 
 
 
 27. PLAN OF THE HARBOUR.
 
 Tin-: HOOK OF CK\I.()X 33 
 
 breakwaters, the north-west, the middle, and the south- Harbour of 
 west, the aggregate length being about 8,000 feet with ^<»'°'"*'" 
 openings for entrance and exit. The harbour thus formed 
 has a water area of a square mile and provides accommodation 
 for about fifty steamers besides smaller craft. At the north- 
 east is a dry dock which is capable of receiving any warship 
 or merchant vessel afloat, and in addition to this a slip has 
 been provided for the overhauling and repair of smaller vessels. 
 This fine harbour, which has cost about two and a half millions 
 of pounds sterling, has been of immense value to the colony, not 
 only in protecting from the fury of the elements the ships that 
 bring supplies and carry away the country's produce, but in 
 attracting the shipping of the Eastern world, and of the more 
 distant colonies, by the convenience it offers as a coaling 
 station and entrepot for exchange of passengers. The ship- 
 ping trade now carried on within this port would have been 
 impossible in the 'seventies, when every vessel was compelled 
 to anchor in the open roadstead, and to embark and discharge 
 in a sea that was often rough and sometimes dangerous. 
 Indeed, so difficult was the transaction of shipping business 
 owing to the heavy surf that the P. & O. Company avoided 
 Colombo altogether and landed both passengers and mails at 
 (xalle. The transformation is one of which the (-oloiiy may 
 well be proud. There are now from twenty to forty steam- 
 ships always to be seen riding at anchor within the harbour, 
 and the tonnage entered and cleared in the course of the year 
 amounts to upwards of ten millions. The volume of business 
 which such figures suggest is striking, not the least important 
 consideration being the constant and regular shipping of the 
 colony's produce to the markets of the world. 
 
 Some idea of the protection afforded by the south-west riu 
 breakwater may be obtained by a glance at our illustration. '"''<'*"''''"■ 
 Here we see the effect of the south-west monsoon driving 
 enormous waves with terrific force against the great mass of 
 concrete whose resistance shoots them aloft in masses of 
 spray that often extend some thousands of feet, and frequently 
 enshroud the harbour. Su(-h scenes pr(\ail in June and con- 
 tinue with diminishing \ thcnience until October, w Inn the 
 north-east monsoon sets in, blowing from off the land. 
 
 We have now arrived within the harbour, and oiu- atten- nnhin the 
 tion is arrested by many quaint scenes. A multitude of '""'*"'"■ 
 canoes from the shore arc making for our \(ss»l. Their 
 singular form immediately excites our curiosity. Each is 
 constructed from the trunk of a tree, which is first hollowed 
 out and tlun levelled at the top. Halance is secured by an 
 outrigger attachment, which consists of two poles of wood 
 extending at right angles to a distance of nbout ten feet from 
 I)
 
 34 
 
 iiii'; iK)()K oi-" ci':\Lox 
 
 Sinhalese 
 cunoes 
 
 Advice 
 to the 
 
 passenger 
 
 Landing- 
 
 The 
 Customs 
 
 the l)()cl\" ol the boat, and connected at tlie ends l)y a flcjat. 
 i)uv illustration will gi\c a better idea oi them than \erbal 
 description. Boats of this construction are used almost uni- 
 versally by the Sinhalese for fishing and for passenger traffic. 
 '1 hey withstand the roughest sea, and literally fly before the 
 breeze. As each steamer drops anchor within the magnificent 
 breakwater of Colombo these weird crafts crowd around, many 
 of them bringing traders laden with precious stones, which 
 will be cjffered at double or treble their value to unwary pass- 
 engers ; others plying for the hire of their boats to take 
 passengers ashore, some with dusky Tamils who sing unceas- 
 ingly to the plash of their oars ; many with comely Sinhalese 
 of lighter complexion, their long hair twisted into a thick knot 
 surmounted by a tortoiseshell comb, giving them a curiously 
 feminine appearance; some with Indo-Arab traders in curious 
 costumes of many hues, their shaven heads crowned with tall 
 plaited brimless hats of parti-coloured silks. This motley 
 fleet is the first scene of novelty that claims attention upon 
 arrival in the harbour of Colombo. 
 
 Travellers who have not been in the East before should 
 now, as the ship drops anchor, accept and lay well to heart 
 two pieces of emphatic advice ; first, never expose your head 
 to the sun's rays unprotected by a good sun hat and an open 
 umbrella ; and second, beware of the importunate sharks who 
 offer you " bargains " in precious stones and curiosities. If 
 you do not want such things do not buy them ; but if you do 
 want them inquire of the local agents of well-known London 
 houses such as Messrs. Henry S. King & Co. and Messrs. 
 Thos. Cook & Sons, who will recommend you to the most 
 trustworthy native dealers. No bargaining is necessary or 
 even admissible in the English shops of Colombo, but outside 
 them the traveller must be his own judge of values. To this 
 admonition may perhaps be added one more. Do not brook 
 any pestering or annoyance on the part of jinrickshaw coolies 
 or others ; but inform the police, who have their instructions 
 to protect the stranger from all importunities to which he 
 objects. 
 
 The distance of the landing jetty from our ship will vary 
 from a mile to a few hundred yards according to the berth 
 allotted for anchorage. Passengers go ashore at their own 
 convenience in launches, canoes, or jolly boats, all of which 
 ply for hire around the steamer. The boats are licensed. The 
 rates of hire are observable in a prominent place upon arrival 
 at the landing jetty, and a jetty sergeant is present to afford 
 information and check any incivility on the part of boatmen. 
 
 The Customs officials are courteous and obliging to tra- 
 vellers, who are not required to pay duty on such articles as
 
 
 30. CARTING TEA FOR SHIPMENT. 
 
 31. THE GRAND ORIENTAL HOTEL.
 
 THE HOOK ()[■' C"i:\ LON 37 
 
 comprise ordinary travelling baggay^e. Hut firearms are liable The 
 to a duty of five to ten rupees ; and articles which arc not in '-"''»"'"■* 
 use and possess a market value are liable to a duty of 5'. 
 per cent, on that \alue. 
 
 Rates of carriage hire, 'rickshaw iiirc, p()rtag«'S and >tatis- 
 tical information generally are gi\en at the end of this \()lume, 
 and will be easily found on reference to the index. 
 
 In few of the world's large ports is the traveller offered The lort 
 so pleasant a prospect upon landing. There is usually a slum 
 to be traversed before the surroundings become attractive, but 
 here we are at once in pleasant places. Upon leaving the 
 jetty we arrive in the Fort, which term in olden times, as 
 we shall later show, bore its literal meaning; but now indicates 
 that portion of Colombo occupied chietly by the residence of 
 the Governor, the offices of the Go\ernment and of the Hritish 
 merchants. We are impressed by the prosperous appearance 
 of the place. The streets are broad ; the roads are good ; 
 the merchants' offices and stores are capacious and in many 
 instances possess considerable architectural merit, while the 
 hotels are superior to any others in the East, a matter of no 
 small importance to the traveller and resident alike. We are 
 at once confronted by one of them. The Cirand Oriental Hotel 
 faces us as we leave the harbour. Our illustration will gi\e 
 some idea of its proportions. The "G.O.H.," as this fine 
 hotel is familiarly called, commands the best view of the 
 harbour and shipping. In approaching it we pass o\er a 
 bridge under which runs a road specially constructed for cart 
 traffic to the harbour. Here we notice operations sufficiently 
 novel to attract the attention of the traveller, and at the same 
 time \cry significant of Ceylon's prosperity. 
 
 Hundreds of pairs of Indian humped-bulls are drawing down 1 h 
 thousands of chests of Ceylon tea; dusky Tamil and Sinhalese ^Jj'f"^"" 
 coolies arc receiving it into boats and c()n\e\ing it to the 
 steamers. Every stroke of work ashore or pull of oar afloat 
 is accompanied by an inordinate amount of jabber. I'he 
 tongue of the harbour coolie seems to move automatically, but 
 we are told that the soft tones which he ejaculates c(nil(l not 
 be translated into ICnglish : there arc no words or phrases 
 suffi(Mentlv shocking for the purpose. However, as we do not 
 understand him we are not offended ; w hile his methods and 
 proceedings amuse us. 
 
 Quite near the entrance of the (ir;in(i ()ri(iit,il Hotel will 
 be noticed a statue of Queen X'ictoria in white marble. This 
 was erected bv the colonv as a memorial of her Majesty's 
 Diamond Jubilee in iSc)^. It is the work of Mi', (i. E. Wade. 
 
 Those who \ isit the Grand Oriental Hotel will note its Hi/ 
 iiandsoinc dining hall, cliarming jialni courl and gardrn, fine
 
 >S IIII': HOOK Ol' ClOVLOX 
 
 The Fort billiard rooms, and ;ilj()\c, all its outlook o\cr the harhfjur 
 whence our view, plate 25, was obtained. The cosmoptjlitan 
 nature ot the crowds that assemble in the spacious verandahs 
 and balconies, when steamers from various parts of the wcjrld 
 arrive together, affords mutual interest and amusement. .\t 
 night the gardens are brilliantly illuminated. 
 streets of 'j^j^g Fort, a plan of which is annexed, can easilv be ex- 
 
 plored on foot and without a guide. By turning to the left 
 on leaving the front entrance of the hotel we pass the old 
 banqueting hail of the Dutch Governors, which now does duty 
 as the English Garrison Church of St. Peter. It contains 
 some interesting memorials, and is worth a visit. Turning 
 again to the left we pass along Queen Street, with the (iordon 
 (rardens on our right and the Legislative Council Chambers 
 and various Government offices on the left (Plate 32). The 
 Government Archives are also located here and include the 
 oflicial records of the Dutch Government from the year 1640 
 to 179ft, besides the British records from the latter date. The 
 Gordon Gardens were laid out and planted wdth a variety of 
 ornamental trees at the private expense of Sir Arthur Gordon 
 (now Lord Stanmore) when Governor of Ceylon, as his per- 
 sonal gift to Colombo in honour of the Jubilee of her Majesty 
 Queen Victoria. 
 The Queen's Adjoining the Gordon Gardens is the residence of the 
 
 House Governor of the colony, known as the Queen's House. Although 
 
 not a handsome building its massive masonry and spacious 
 corridors provide what is most desirable in a tropical residence, 
 protection from the sun's rays, while the grounds of some 
 four acres are shaded by beautiful trees. It was erected about 
 the middle of the last century. We cannot give an adequate 
 idea of the architecture or general appearance of this building 
 from a photograph, for it is not only in a somewhat confined 
 position for so large a house, but is also embowered in foliage. 
 Some idea of its appearance from the street may be gathered 
 from our plate 33. 
 Gnierai Immediately opposite the Queen's House is the General 
 
 Post Office p^^^j Office (Plate 34). Of this building the colony is proud, 
 although comfort has been sacrificed somewhat to appearance. 
 The European staff find it rather warm. Of the department 
 housed here only praise can be given. The colony is abreast 
 of the times in its postal arrangements, and in many instances 
 offers advantages that the Old Country has not begun to pro- 
 vide, notably, a ^'alue-payable parcels post ; while its post-card 
 and newspaper rates are one-third lower than in Great Britain. 
 The visitor will find the arrangements for his convenience 
 satisfactory and complete. He will enter by the handsome 
 flight of steps leading to a spacious hall floored \\ith intaglio
 
 32. GOVERNMENT OFFICES. 
 
 THE QjEEN S MO. •iE. 
 
 34. THE GENERAL POST OFF 
 
 XANKS AND BANKS IN QUUN ■Tnilt
 
 36. IMPORTING HOUSE OF CAVE &, CO., QUEEN STREET. 
 
 37. CHATHAM STREET.
 
 iiii': iu)()K oi'- ( i:\i,()\ 41 
 
 tiles. Here he will liiul the posie-restaufc rountcrs as well as The lort 
 every other postal facility. 
 
 The next buildings to claim our notice as we pass alonj^ r„,«„ stnct 
 Queen Street are the Honj^- Kon^- and Shans^hai Hank and the 
 Chartered Bank of India on the kit (Plate j^5). These institu- 
 tions occupy the building; imrv famous as the premises of the 
 Oriental Bank which came to g^rief nearly thirty vears a£jo 
 throug-h the ruin of the coffee industry. Its failure gave 
 occasion for a striking act of courage on the part of Sir Arthur 
 Ciordon, who was then Governor. The notes of the bank were 
 held by natives all over the island and represented their onlv 
 medium of exchange for food. With the closing of the bank's 
 doors starvation must inevitably have overtaken them had 
 not Sir Arthur Gordon pledged the credit of (iovernment as 
 guaranteeing payment of the note issue. Few Governors 
 would have dared so much ; hut Sir .Arthur was the man for 
 such a crisis, and his action has ever been remembered with 
 gratitude. Opposite these banks is another institution of a 
 similar character, the Mercantile I?ank of India. An equalK 
 venerable thing is the sacred Bo Tree which flourishes at its 
 entrance. This tree is of the same species as the famous 
 specimen at Anaradhapura, now upwards of two thousand 
 years old, whose history is described on a later page. 
 
 Here Oueen Street is intersected by Chatham Street, and ihe 
 in the middle of the crossings stands the Lighthouse of ''s'"'"""' 
 Colombo, w'hich serves the additional purpose of a clock tower. 
 The quadrilateral shape of this building is unusual in a light- 
 house, and its more important purpose is sometimes unsus- 
 pected by the visitor who passes by. Quite close to the 
 lighthouse is a fine building occupying the corner of I'pper 
 Chatham and Queen Streets with a frontage of four hundred 
 feet. It is the importing house of the Messrs. Cave (Plate 30). 
 agents for Messrs. Henry S. King 8c Co., and a rendezvous umiv s. 
 for passengers where they can obtain reliable information and '^""■' '" ^" 
 purchase such arti(^les as they are most likelv to need. In 
 particular the whole bibliography of Ceylon is available here. 
 As we approach the end of Queen Street we notice the militar\- 
 officers' quarters on the right, the left being occupied (hieflv 
 by the ofTices of shipping houses and produce brokers. 
 
 We now proceed by wa\' of Chatham .Street. Our \iew chathtim 
 (Plate ;\y) is from Cave's entrance. Tin- stranger will be 
 struck with the picturesque appearance of this and other streets 
 of Colombo due to the Katu Imbul or rain trees bv which thev 
 are shaded. The\- are called rain trees from the circumstance 
 that at night the li-aves fold into a kind of sack in which the 
 moisture condenses, and at simrisc when the leaves open is 
 discharged in a shower. The .*^uri\a tree {Tlirspcsiii />(>/>»/>/('(/)
 
 42 'IHK BOOK OI' Ci:\ LOX 
 
 The Fort «»ls() alTorcis shade to many of the streets and rcjads ; it llowcrs 
 Chatham profuscly With delicatc primrose-coloured blossoms, lars^e and 
 ■^'"'' showy, changing to purple as they fade, and in form resembling 
 
 the single scarlet hibiscus. The roads are metalled with dark 
 red cabook, a product of disintegrated gneiss, which being 
 subjected to detrition communicates its hue to the soil. This 
 feature of the roads is not only pleasant for its vivid contrast 
 with the verdure of the trees; but is most useful in softening 
 the glare of tropical sunlight. This alleviation, due to the 
 presence of cabook, extends along the south-west coast and 
 includes Galle ; but the traveller will note its absence in Kandy, 
 whose white roads are not exactly soothing to the vision. 
 During dry weather the fine red dust imparts its tint to one's 
 clothing, an evil of small account in a place where it is too 
 hot for smart attire. 
 
 After passing the German Consulate and the offices of the 
 agents of the Nord Deutscher Lloyd, we notice that Chatham 
 Street is composed of a strange medley of restaurants, native 
 Tc-u'cUers jewcllcrs', curiosity shops and provision houtiqites, and that 
 the houses are for the most part old and limited to one floor. 
 It is a remnant of old Colombo in the sailing ship days 
 and must soon disappear as most of the Dutch buildings have 
 alrcadv done, giving place to colossal houses of business 
 befitting the dignity of the port. The visitor will, however, 
 find manv curious things in the Sinhalese jewellers' shops. 
 Hardlv any attempt is made to display the wares to the view 
 of the passer by ; but if he will enter and take a seat at the 
 emptv table he may be surprised at the beautiful workmanship 
 in ivorv and jewelled caskets, the tortoiseshell work and the 
 precious stones that will be hauled out of safe places and set 
 before him in these humble-looking shanties. 
 York stiect We turn to the left into York Street (Plates 39 and 40), 
 
 which would scarcely be recognised by those who left Ceylon 
 twenty years ago. It contained the eastern wall and moat of 
 the old Dutch fort which have disappeared in favour of the 
 Office of Public Works, the Bristol Hotel, the Survey Depart- 
 ment and the Chamber of Commerce. 
 
 The Survev Department stands on the right of the way 
 leading to the Fort Railway Station, a continuation of Chatham 
 Street which we see before we turn into York Street. Here 
 the meteorological records are received from the various 
 stations all over the country and prepared for publication ; 
 maps and plans are executed under the direction of the 
 SurA'eyor General, the lithographic equipment for this purpose 
 being of the most complete and perfect description. A detailed 
 and accurate survey of all the lands of the colony has for some 
 vears been the chief work of this department of the Govern- 
 ment.
 
 38. CHATHAM STREET. 
 
 39. YORK STREET.
 
 40. YORK STREET. 
 
 41. THE NATIONAL BANK AND THE VICTORIA ARCADE.
 
 Tin-: iu)()K oi- ci:\i.o\" 
 
 45 
 
 Opposite the Survey Department Offices is the location of f^e Fort 
 the Chamber of Commerce. This society was established in ammOer ../ 
 Colombo in the year 1837 to protect the interests of the colony's ^-o""""" 
 trade. -MI the important mercantile firms are represented in 
 its deliberations. It gives authority to rates of agency and 
 commission ; it fixes a standard tonnage scale for all classes 
 of produce ; arranges rules and conditions of produce sales ; 
 nominates surveyors, arbitrators and umpires, thereby gi\ing 
 an olficial character to Iheir reports and awards; and assists 
 the Government by its discussions and resolutions upon com- 
 mercial matters which call for legislation. Its inlluencc in this 
 last direction is important and considerable, and is rendered 
 the more effective by the circumstance that its wishes are made- 
 known in the legislative assemblies by the Mercantile Member 
 of the Council, who is practically its own representative. 
 
 The Department of Public Works is first on our right as PuUHc 
 we proceed along York Street. It is responsible for the ex- "'"'^** 
 pcnditure of about five millions of rupees per annum on the con- 
 struction of roads, bridges, government buildings and public 
 works generally throughout the colon}-. The olVice of the 
 Registrar General is in the same building. 
 
 The Bristol Hotel partly observable in our plate is one of nrisU'tiivut 
 the three large hotels in Colombo which can justlv and proudK' 
 boast of being second to none in the East. It is well ap]5oiiUed, 
 comfortable, and enjoys a large local cUcniele as well as the 
 patronage of the passing tourist. Opposite the Hristol is the 
 handsome store of Cargills, Limited, which will interest the 
 traveller who has wants to be supplied. The National Hank 
 and the Victoria Arcade are next noticed, the latter being 
 interesting as containing the local offices of Messrs. Thos. Thos. ox.* 
 Cook & Son and the Peninsular and Oriental Steamship Com- *" ^'"* 
 pany. Prince Street and Baillie Street intersect the square 
 which we have traversed. The latter is a somewhat narrow , 
 and therefore treeless, but busy thoroughfare, containing many 
 merchants' otlices, the Bank of .Madras and the office of the 
 Ceylon Observer, a daily newspaper edited by the Hon. Mr. 
 John Ferguson, C.M.G., who represents the gineral luiropian 
 interests in the Legislative Council ivl the coionx , and his son 
 Mr. Ronald I<"erguson. 
 
 Colombo may be seen in a day with or w ithout a guide ; (,,,,/,. 
 but thousands of passengers who spend only a day ashore fail 
 to obtain any adequate idea of the place from want of reliable 
 advice and direction. Local guide books teem with adver- 
 tisements and consign you to the shops. The human guide 
 does little more unless you know wh:it you want to do and 
 insist on doing it. In this book the interests of the visitor 
 onh are 'onsidered. If he wants to see Colombo in a <la\ let
 
 42. MAIN STREET. 
 
 43. MAIN STREET. 
 
 4B. GRAND PASS ROAD. 
 
 49. THE TERMINUS.
 
 THE nODK Ol- (I-M.OX 47 
 
 him spend half an hour round tlic Fort bv the route described ; f^*»^ *° **«^ 
 then take a first class seat in front of the tram car for the ^°'°'"''" 
 Grand Pass terminus upon the Kelaniya River ; next visit ^'""'•■s 
 Maradana and Borella by the same means of locomotion ; 
 afterwards hire a carriage,* dri\e along Galle Face, Union 
 Place, \'auxhall Road, the Lake, Hyde Park Corner, the 
 Cinnamon Gardens, the Hospital, Morton Place, Gregory's 
 Road, the Museum, Turret Road, Polwatte and Kolupitiya. 
 I Ik II it time permits drive to Mutwall. The visitor who follows 
 the illustrated description of this route in these pages will have 
 seen Colombo and should it be his first visit to the East he 
 will have received enough new impressions to dwell upon for 
 the rest of his voyage whatever his destination may be. 
 
 A glance at our map of Colombo will show the routes taken rram-uays 
 by the electric tram cars. A start is made for Grand Pass 
 from the Fort terminus near the Grand Oriental Hotel. Most 
 of the cars are fitted with outside seats in front, which are 
 first class. Into one of these we step. The first scene is 
 that presented in our plate 42, Main Street, 'ihe Times (daily 
 newspaper) office is on our right, and the Colombo Iron Works 
 on our left. We now leave the l""ort and arc carried along 
 past tens of thousands of tons of coal which proclaim their 
 own storv of the \nst amount of shipping that comes this 
 WAX. A minute later we arc in the Pettah, the natives' 
 London. 'J'he effect is kaleidoscopic. Moormen or lndo-.\rab 
 traders occup}' Main .Street (Plate 4;^} with well-stocked stores 
 containing every description of goods. The street widens at 
 Kayman's Gate, so called after a Dutch officer. Here (I'late 44) 
 will be noticed an old Dutch curfew bell which may have been 
 used in the seventeenth century to toll the knell of parting day, 
 but not as in Europe to warn the inhabitants to put out their 
 lires. Here in the \icinity of the Town Hall we notice the 
 great diversity of races represented : Sinhalese, Moors, Tamils, 
 Parsees, Dutch, Portuguese, Malays and Afghans ; the variety 
 of costume worn by each race in accordance with caste or 
 social position, from the simple loin cloth of the cooly to the 
 gorgeous attire of the wcaltlu' and liigh-caste gentleman; 
 the different complexions and forms of toilet, the avocations 
 carried on in the open street, are all entertaining to the \isitor 
 who for the first time becomes a witness of the manners and 
 ( ustoms of oriental life. .\t every turn the eye is met by a 
 fresh picture, and a new subject for study is presented to the 
 mind. This mixed and motley crowd live their life and carry 
 on thi'ir labours almost entirely in jiublic. Neither doors, 
 windows, nor shutters interfere with a complete \ iew of the 
 interior of their houses and stalls. The handicraftsman works 
 * For rales of carriage lure. etc. . see Index.
 
 48 THE IU)()K Ol" CI•:^'LOX 
 
 How to see scrtMicly in his open shed, sometimes even in the open street; 
 
 Co om o women are occupied in their most domestic affairs unveiled 
 
 from the glance of the curious passer-by, and tiny children, 
 clothed only in the rich tints of their own complexions, sport 
 amongst the traffic. All this harmonises charmingly with the 
 conditions of climate and the nature of the people. The heat 
 renders clothing uncomfortable, and closed up dwellings unen- 
 
 The Grand I'ass durable. The tram ride is perhaps too rapid for the stranger 
 
 TyaiHivciv • i i i *-> 
 
 to fully appreciate these novel scenes ; but a glance at them 
 through three miles of native streets is all that time affords. 
 The terminus is reached at the River Kelaniya, about which 
 more information will be gathered as this book proceeds. We 
 can spare a few minutes to look around at the scenes on the 
 river bank and even to cross the river by the ferry as the 
 returning trams leave at intervals of five minutes. Or we 
 can stroll along to the Victoria Bridge which has replaced the 
 old picturesque bridge-of-boats which once did the duty of 
 connecting the northern road with Colombo. The native life 
 and customs here will instruct and amuse us, and we shall 
 regret that time does not admit of a more prolonged explora- 
 tion. The return journey will enable us to enjoy more fully 
 the points that almost escape our notice owing to the rapidity 
 of the car. 
 The Boreihi Having returned to our starting point we now take a seat 
 
 iiamway j^^ ^j^^ ^^^ xh^i movcs off in the opposite direction. Proceeding 
 
 up York Street (Plate 50) and turning by the Public Works 
 Office we pass the Chamber of Commerce, the Survey Office, 
 and the Fort Railway Station of the southern railway. The 
 lake scenery first claims our attention. Presently we pass the 
 Royal College situated on high ground to the left. This is 
 the principal Government educational institution, the nucleus 
 of a future university. A distant view of St. Joseph's Roman 
 Catholic College across the lake is observed, a handsome build- 
 ing which we shall see later in the detail of closer inspection. 
 A ferry (Plate 51) connecting with a peninsula of the lake 
 called Captain's Garden provides a pretty bit of scenery, and 
 here we notice the operations of the washerman, the dark, 
 dank dhoby who bleaches our soiled linen by the primitive 
 method of beating it upon slabs of rock. Upon leaving the 
 lake the line passes the main Railway Station upon the right 
 and the Technical School (Plate 52) upon the left. The latter 
 is an institution at present not very enthusiastically appreciated 
 by the natives of the country for whose benefit a paternal 
 government has provided it. The object of its establishment 
 is to provide training in civil engineering, surveying, tele- 
 graphy, electrical and mechanical engineering. The Ceylonese, 
 howe\er, do not take kindly to technical work, preferring rather
 
 50. YORK STREET. 
 
 51. THE FEHHY. 
 
 TECHNICAL SCHOOL 
 
 V 
 
 ^ ^— 
 
 MOHAMMEDAN MOSQUE. 
 
 APANA HOAD. 
 
 SO. LADV HAVELOCK HOSPITAL. 
 
 MADADANA ROAD.
 
 ^!?€^S^fe 
 
 B8. BASKETS AND BROOMS. 
 
 59. BROOMS AND BASKETS. 
 
 60. THE POULTERER. 
 
 61. THE COBBLER. 
 
 32. THE ASTROLOGER. 
 
 63. THE TINSMITH 
 
 64. THE RICE VENDOf). 
 
 65. THE MEDiCINE Sh-OP.
 
 Till!: H(j()K ()[■ c l•:^■|.().\ 51 
 
 tin: prc;lcssioiis ol clerks, lawyers and chxtors. It is hoped Hov* to see 
 however that this attitude towards mechanics and art \\ ill soon ^''''""''** 
 disappear and that the Technical School will serve the admir- riu liouiUi 
 able purpose ol supplying tJTe Public Works, the Railway, the """^'^>' 
 Irrij4ati()n and the l-"orestry departments of the (io\"ernment 
 with plent\- ol s^ood men whose capacit\ will be as thorout^h 
 and whose enthusiasm in their profession will be as great and 
 whole hearted as that of the imported l^uropean. 
 
 After passing- the Technical School we proceed along Mara- 
 dana Road for half a mile, when w c- pass over the railway at 
 the Junction Station where trains lea\e for the coast line ;ind 
 the Kclani X'alley as well as for up-country. Then we notice 
 on our left the Police Headquarters and Parade (iround, and 
 on the right the largest Mohammedan mos(|ue in Colombo 
 (Plate 54). Other notablt ])laces are the Lad\ lla\ clock 
 Hospital for women and children (Plate 50) erett^d in i.SgG 
 by public subscription and named after Lady Havclock who 
 was the leading spirit in its establishment; the headquarters 
 of the medical department presided o\cr b\ Sir Allan Perr\- ; 
 the Roman Catholic Archbishop's house and Campbell Park, 
 into which the \isitor might stroll for a few minutes before 
 taking a tram back again. 
 
 On the return journey wc inii^l.t look out more particularh- 
 for quaint scenes in the bazaars through w hich we pass. l-A en 
 the sign boards over the little open stall will amuse us. " .\ 
 clever astrologer " (Plate (12), words of no small import to the i he astrologer 
 people of this neighbourhood whose hoioscopes are cast at 
 birth and whose every subsequent step in lif<' depends on or 
 at least is inlluenced by the i-ounsel of the astiologer. If a 
 journey has to be taken the time of starting must be fixed bv 
 the astrologer. If a house is to be built the foundation stone 
 must be laid in accordance with his advice. He decides the 
 auspicious moment f(^r e\'erything, e\cn for the lirst sha\e, 
 whether it be of bab\'s head or xoung man's beard. The 
 ordinary no less than the important events of life are deter- 
 mined through the medium of astrology. However much of 
 an imposture we may consider this art to be, there is no 
 doubt of its immense iniluence upon the Sinhakse people, and 
 that the less educated amongst them beliew in it imi)licitl\'. 
 
 The open character of the natix'c shops is univi'rsal; thev Hic banMr 
 var\- onl\ in the classes of goods thev have for sale. Here 
 there are liiiils, euri\ stulTs, dried lish, spices (Plates 5S and 
 59), market baskets and earthenware chatties. In another 
 (Plate (H)) wc notice baskets ol lowls which here are kept 
 ali\c, and not as in the poulterers' shops ol luirope. 'Iherc 
 we observe a nati\e niedii ul ^-lall (Plate 05) dignilied bv tlic 
 high-sounding title ol " .Mi die ,il II. ill." The tin-shop, with
 
 Till': HOOK ()!• CI-:N L()\ 
 
 How to see 
 Colombo 
 
 The imtivt 
 bazaars 
 
 A pleasant 
 drive 
 
 tlu' tinsmith at work (I'latc O^J is ubifjuitous. The bootmaker 
 (Plate ()i) is patiently sticking- to his last, manulacturinf^ the 
 latest creations in foot-wear upon the floor of his unfurnished 
 den. In other shops are seen all manner of vegetables and 
 fruits, native manufactures in brass ware, the gay comboys 
 or cloths worn 1)\- the people and various useful articles made 
 from the cocoanut and other palms. The customers are 
 almost as varied as the w^ares. The Sinhalese man of sienna 
 complexion, wearing his long hair gathered up into a knot 
 surmounted by a comb of tortoiseshell, is attired in garb 
 varying with caste, even the comb assuming different forms 
 in accordance with social position. The .Sinhalese women too 
 ha\c a multitude of distinctions in dress and ornaments. All 
 indulge more or less in jewellery, consisting of necklaces and 
 bangles on both arms and ankles and rings on their fingers and 
 toes. Many Tamil women wear but a single coloured cloth, 
 which they gracefully entwine about their limbs, leaving the 
 rig-ht side bare to the hip. The costumes of the native men 
 are even more diverse. The Moormen with shaven heads, 
 crowned with curiously plaited brimless hats ; the Parsees in 
 still more curious headgear; the Tamils with religious symbols 
 on their foreheads ; the Afghans contrasting with the Tamils 
 in superabundance of gaudy attire — such are the races, and 
 such the dresses of the groups of people we see in the streets 
 of Colombo. 
 
 Our next business is a drive through pleasant places where 
 we shall see something of native life amidst the exquisite 
 scenery with which this most beautiful of tropical cities 
 entrances the traveller of aesthetic temperament. Our choice 
 in the matter of conveyance lies between the jinrickshaw and 
 the horse carriage, victoria or waggonette of somewhat in- 
 different quality to be hired in Colombo. If our choice falls 
 upon the former, a rubber-tyred 'rickshaw should be chosen, 
 if the latter a waggonette is preferable as offering less obstruc- 
 tion to view. It is advisable to obtain cither through the hotel 
 attendant, and to give him sufficient notice to enable him to 
 secure the best procurable. A licensed guide* may be of 
 service, but he must be required to adhere to the route marked 
 out, and he should be allowed only to answer questions and 
 act where necessary as interpreter. We drive through Prince 
 and Queen Streets which are by this time familiar to us and 
 onwards to Galle Face. Upon leaving the Fort we notice 
 first the military barracks on our left, built on the foundation 
 of the old wall of the Dutch Fort and fronted by a spacious 
 parade ground. It will be seen that of the five handsome blocks 
 four are placed en ccJieJon so that each may receive the full 
 * For regulations respecting guides refer lo Index.
 
 66. NATIVES WATCHING CRICKET ON GALLE FACE. 
 
 67 GALLE FACE.
 
 54 I III': IU)()K Ol' (■l':\L()\ 
 
 How to see hcndit of ih • st a brcc/c. Xouhfrc in the l^ast is 'rommy 
 Colombo Atkins more luxuriously housed than here. I he i'Airopean 
 
 "garrison ol the eolom has lor maii\ \ears comprised a regi- 
 ment ol Inlantiy, Renal (iarrison Artillery, Royal Engineers, 
 .\rm\ Ser\ ice Corps, Ordnance and R^oyal Army Medical 
 (Orjjs; hut with the advent of a new Government changes are 
 h.ing effected, and no delinite information that can be given 
 licic is lil<el\ to remain for long correct. The luiropean 
 regiment ol lnlantr\- has alreadv been removed. 
 Gaiie Face (ialle I'acc is an open lawn about one mile in length and 
 
 three hundred yards wide, flanked on one side by the sea and 
 the other by the lake. It is controlled by the military 
 authority ; but used by the public as a recreation ground for 
 football, cricket, hockey and other games. Three roads pass 
 through it, the Esplanade, a perfectly smooth carriage drive 
 and promenade by the sea ; a similar drive by the lake ; and 
 a central road for commercial tralhc. On the lake side arc- 
 an old Dutch military cemetery with some interesting monu- 
 ments, the Garrison Artillery Mess and the Military Hospital ; 
 an object of greater prominence towards the southern end is 
 the Colombo Club. Adjoining this is the Sports Club Pavilion 
 and a squash racquet court. Our illustration (Plate 69) depicts 
 the Sports Club cricket ground. A reliable and astonishingly 
 good wicket is always obtainable here by the use of a strip 
 of coir matting. Cricket in Ceylon is a perennial game and 
 has indeed become the national game of the country, the 
 Ceylonese being rcmarkablv proficient in it. Even the coolies 
 indulge in this pastime and the stranger will be amused to 
 see them, innocent of clothing with the slightest exception, 
 and wielding extemporised and primitive implements. 
 Caiie Face At the extreme southern end of the Galle Face Esplanade 
 
 ^"''^' and in close proximity to the sea stands the luxurious Galle 
 
 Face Hotel (Plate 70). In many respects this fine hostelry is 
 unequalled in the East. It enjoys the advantage of a site as 
 perfect as could be found, bearing in mind the great desidera- 
 tum of sea breeze. Its hall, verandahs, dining-room, ballroom, 
 drawing-room, billiard-rooms and reading-rooms arc palatial, 
 while the supreme attraction to many is an excellent and 
 spacious sea-water swimming-bath. Whether we are staving 
 at this hotel or not we ought at least to explore it and make 
 our way by means of the electric lift to the top floor in order 
 to enjoy the fine panoramic view from the front windows. If 
 we are photographers we must not fail to avail ourselves of 
 the opportunity presented here. Our plates (Xos. 67 and 69) 
 give some idea of the landscape, which is generallv coupled 
 with beautiful cloud effects for which Ceylon is altogether 
 famous. Indeed Ceylon is the amateur photographer's paradise ;
 
 ''HHwaiaja^xji.'rarJ T-T. T'r 
 
 68. THE MILITARY BARRACKS. 
 
 69. THE SPORTS CLUB CRICKET GROUND. 
 
 iiW,!^.*^W. 
 
 70. GALLE FACE HOTEL
 
 + **%' 
 
 ^K 
 
 RhW^l.-^ 
 
 "^^^^1 
 
 ^1^^- 
 
 HHjH 
 
 ■B^^ 
 
 ST, JOSEPH'S COLLEGE. 
 
 74. DHOBiES. 
 
 VAUXHALL ROAD 
 
 76. THE GENERALS HOUSE. 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■^^^^^■ici •'■ 
 
 'H^^^^HBr^ 
 
 a»-. .- 
 
 J3DHIST TEMPLE, 
 
 78. VIEW FROM THE GENERAL S HOUSE.
 
 THE IJOOK ()!• Ci:\l.(>\ 57 
 
 at every turn the eye is met l)y a fresh picture, and a new How to see 
 subject is presented to the mind every moment. Colombo 
 
 Those who, Hke the author, were acquainted with Ceylon 
 upwards of thirty years ago can best appreciate the change 
 which has taken place in its hotel accommodation. The Galle 
 Face Hotel of those days was a mere shanty compared to its 
 present successor. Its bedrooms were merely divisions marked 
 off by canvas screens. The remarks of occupants of several 
 rooms on either side of one could be distinctly heard. 
 
 Xow the guests in the i<So bedrooms are fanned gently 
 to slumber by electric fans without any risk of disturbance from 
 their neighbours. Notwithstanding that Colombo now has 
 three palatial hotels an overflow of guests has frequently to 
 be dealt with, and the roomy corridors of the Galle Face Hotel 
 may occasionally be seen littered with improvised beds. At 
 such times the cosmopolitan character of the visitors brought 
 thither by ships from various countries provides in itself a 
 good deal of interest and amusement. All seem bent on enjoy- 
 ment ; even the warm temperature docs not appear to relax 
 their energies, for Terpsichore is worshipped in the East, and 
 the ample ballroom, provided with a good l)an(i, is well 
 patronised until a late hour. 
 
 We now cross over the central road, a\-oiding the turn to The dtive 
 Kolupitiya on the cast side of the hotel, and pass by Christ '''""""' 
 Church of the Cluircli Missionarv Socict\', and the Masonic 
 Temple, botli of which are visible in plati- <h). The building 
 on the lake promontory observable in our jilate is the married 
 quarters of the military barracks. 
 
 We cross a bridge, from which our \iew (Plate 71) is taken, s/^,,^. inland 
 into Slave Island, an unpleasant name given to this locality 
 by the Dutch who used it as a prison for their State slaves. 
 The coast railway line is now crossed, and we proceed along 
 Union Place for about half a mile. This street is illustrated bv 
 our plate 72. The hrst turning to the left brings us immediately 
 to the pretty lakeside views (Plates 73 and 74). Attention 
 at this sjiot is dixidi'd between the charming landscapi- and 
 the operations of the dhobies upon the banks in the foreground. 
 Groups of bronze-tinted figures are waist-deep in the water, 
 engaged in the destructive occupation of cleansing linen by 
 beating it upon the rocks. There is no operation so effectual 
 or from the dhoby's point of view so economical; for not even 
 the expense of soap is incurred in bleaching one's linen, while 
 the use of the public lake in place of the washing tub in\-ol\es 
 no rent. This method, however, has its drawback, for it is 
 prosecuted ;it the expense of much wear and tear. 
 
 .Vcross the lai<c at this point is St. |ose|)h's Colhge, an 
 (•st.ililisliincnl for the hii-hcr edur;ilion ol Rom.in Catholir
 
 5.S llll". I'.OOK Ol' CI'.N I.OX 
 
 How to see hoys. It h;is li\c towcis .mkI in i^cncral ;ippcarance somewhat 
 
 Co om o icscmblcs an Italian palai c It is er(( ted (jn one of the most 
 
 charminj^- sites coiiccix able, cm ironed with beautiful palms 
 and Howerini; trees and (ncrlookini^ the finest part of the 
 extensixf lake ol Colombo. A lart^c and ornate hall, aeccjm- 
 inodatini^ !,jo(3 jx'rsons and fitted with a static lor enlertain- 
 ments, is amongst many attrarti\e tealures ol the interior. 
 The s^rounds, of about ten acres, provide excellent accommoda- 
 tion for cricket, football and every pastime. 
 
 The lake Turnint^- to the left we now drive down \'auxhall Road for 
 
 a C|uarter of a mile and then turn sharply to the left, crossing 
 Union Place and making our way beneath an avenue of trees 
 to another picturesque stretch of the lake (Plate So). This 
 road leads us past the large engineering works and stores of 
 the Ct)mmercial Company and the residence of the (General in 
 command of the troops (Plate "jh). At this point are several 
 charming pictures affording an opportunity not to be missed 
 by the amateur photographer (Plates 77 and 78). This fresh- 
 water lake is one of the most charming features of Colombo. 
 Its ramifications are so many that one is constantly coming 
 across pretty nooks and corners quite unexpectedly, each fresh 
 view presenting a wealth of foliage luxuriant beyond descrip- 
 tion. Palms in great variety intermingle with the gorgeous 
 mass of scarlet flamboyant blossoms, the lovely lemon-yellow 
 lettuce tree, the ever-graceful bamboo, the crimson blooms 
 of the dark hibiscus, contrasting with the rich green of the 
 areca, date and palmyra palms, the huge waving leaves of the 
 plantain, flowering trees and shrubs of every description of 
 tropical foliage, the whole forming to the rippling water a 
 border of unrivalled beauty and unfailing interest. 
 
 Park Street We uow leave the lake to explore the roads and houses of 
 
 residential Colombo, which extends for about four square miles 
 to the south of the lake and is centred by the \'ictoria Park. 
 As we proceed by way of Park Street our attention is arrested 
 by a banyan tree [Ficus incUca) which is of considerable interest 
 to those who have never before seen one (Plate 81). This 
 specimen serves the useful purpose of shade to the native 
 vendors of betel, sweetmeats and other little confections for 
 passers-by. It is difficult for anyone who has not seen a 
 banyan tree to realise that all the stems and branches visible 
 in our illustration are parts of one tree. As the branches grow 
 and become too weighty for the parent stem they throw down 
 pendent aerial roots which strike the ground and become 
 themselves supporting stems for the immense branches. Here 
 the shoots have reached the ground, taken root and grown 
 into large new stems, so completely enveloping the original 
 trunk as to produce the appearance of a miniature forest.
 
 79. ST. JOSEPHS COLLEGE. 
 
 
 --ii\.. .A -^^sr,/] 
 
 x^imK 
 
 •.V--1.' '. ;^JIli. - — 
 
 80. THE PALM-FRINGED BANKS OF THE LAKE.
 
 
 81. BANYAN TREE. 
 
 82. VICTORIA PARK. 
 
 83. EDINBURGH CRESCENT. 
 
 84. SIHINIWESA. 
 
 GEORGE WALL FOUNTAIN.
 
 Till-: iu)()K oi- (■I•:^■L()^■ 61 
 
 The circumference of some simple trees, wh'u h thus appear How to see 
 to the eye as a whole grove, extends to several hundred feet. *-"'<""''" 
 There are no really fine specimens in Colombo ; but good ones 
 are to be seen in various parts of Ceylon, notably at Trin- 
 comale, where one may be seen with hundreds of stems and 
 capable of sheltering a thousand people. Illustrations of this 
 grand old tree may be found in the third part of this work. 
 
 About a hundred yards beyond the banyan tree in Park I'utoria lark 
 Street we enter the \'ictoria Park, which is an ornamental 
 recreation ground laid out with gardens, band stand and 
 promenade, golf links, tennis courts, a galloping course for 
 riders and circular carriage drive. The whole is bounded by 
 bungalows with their picturesque grounds. l\v turning to 
 the right we dri\e along the road shown in plate S2, and 
 continuing always to the left we pass over the ground visible 
 in plate Sj;. On our right is the beautiful bungalow Siriniwesa 
 (I'late 84), occui^ied b\- the Imperial Cerman Consul. Opposite 
 this is the Colombo Ciarden Club (Plate ^5) with its large 
 number of lawn-tennis courts and its charming pavilion. The 
 Coloml)o Museum next comes into view. The bronze statue The Museum 
 on the lawn facing the entrance is that of Sir William (iregory, 
 one ol Ceylon's most successful (iovernors, who ruled the 
 colony from 1(8-2 to 1H77, during which period the museum 
 was erected. The scientific and educational value of this 
 institution is recognised and aijprcciated greatly by a large 
 portion of the community ; while it serves a still larger class 
 as a show place always interesting and attractive. In the 
 central hall are brasses and ivory. The Ceylon products room 
 contains all manner of things peculiar to the colony : jewellery, 
 coins, models of various operations, including pearl fishing, 
 masks ot devil dancers, tom-toms in great \ariety, the sump- 
 tuously enshrined and devoutly worshipped Buddha's tooth, 
 and ethnological models in great variety displaying many 
 curious native costumes. In the archaeological rooms are to 
 be seen a highly interesting collection of works of art from 
 the ancient ruined cities. The natural history galleries on 
 the upper floors are filled with fine specimens of indigenous 
 birds, beasts and fishes. The many curiosities of tlic insect 
 world will surprise the stranger; for Ceylon abounds in insect 
 life. There are also galleries containing rocks, niimrals and 
 gems. The fish in the eastern gallery are spec ially interesting 
 and should be noticed by every visitor. 
 
 Other objects of interest near the circul.ii- (lri\-e are the 
 Ceorge Wall l-Ountain (I'hitc SS) and the pi(iuirs(|U' Moham- 
 medan mosque (i'latc Sc)). This part ol Colomho, including 
 the \'ictoria Park and extending west and south ol it in a 
 whole series of cross roads and crescents, is p<)|)ulail\ known
 
 h2 IWi: I'.OOK ()!• CI'N l.OX. 
 
 How to see -^y^ t|i,. C'inn;i nioii (i;ii(lcns liniii llic ( i ii (iiiist;inic tli;it il was 
 " "*" ° in the tinu' ol the l)iit(li (>(( upatioii <>\ Colombo one ol' 
 
 tlu'ir chief rcscrxcs iiiulci- ( iilti\ alion ol that precious spii (■. 
 Hut lor the last hali-ci'ntur\- the hushos have been last dis- 
 appearini; in laxour of the beautiful bungalows and j^ardens 
 which make the locality one of the most charminj^ residential 
 spots concei\ablc, the envy and admiration of visitors from 
 tile southern colonics. Before we leave the \'ictoria Park we 
 
 The Gardens shall perhaps feel inclined to stroll throui^h the i^ardens 
 (Plate loj), to which we sliall iiiul scxcral conxcnient entrances. 
 Here we may wand;r under the shade of palms and ligs or 
 rest beneath clumps of i,»-raceful bamboo surrounded by blos- 
 soms and perfumes of the most enchanting- kind. The huge 
 puri)le bells of the thunbergia creep over the archways, and 
 gorgeous passionflowers, orchids, pitcher plants, bright-leaved 
 caladiums and multitudes of other tropical plants everywhere 
 flourish and abound. Both here and in the neighbouring 
 grounds of the museum will be noticed the curious fan-shaped 
 traveller's tree {Urania speciosa) often wrongly described as 
 a palm. Its long broad leaves collect water, which filters into 
 the (^lose-set sheaths at the base of the leaves, whence by 
 simply piercing them with a knife the traveller can draw 
 streams of pure water. 
 
 The surface of the soil in the Cinnamon Gardens consists 
 of white sand, beneath which is a stratum of nourishing soil. 
 It is this subsoil which supports the roots of the plants, and 
 produces such luxuriance of vegetation ; the traveller, however, 
 is often much surprised and puzzled to see such abundance of 
 magnificent trees and plants apparently nourished onl\- bv 
 white sand. 
 
 Eye Hospital The \'ictoria Memorial Eye Hospital (Plate 90) will not 
 
 escape notice. Its striking appearance in garb of yellow and 
 terra-cotta will arrest the attention of the stranger, who will 
 for a moment be struck with the novelty of the design, which 
 is the work of Mr. E. Skinner, whose art is highly appreciated 
 in Ceylon. This beneficent institution is the memorial of the 
 people of Ceylon to the memory of the late Queen \'ictoria 
 whom they always held in the highest reverence and affection 
 and whose death brought together in common sorrow the most 
 remarkable gathering of people of numerous nationalities and 
 creeds ever witnessed in Ceylon, when the sad event was 
 announced bv Sir West Ridgeway to the assembled twenty 
 thousand or more who reverently made their way to Galle 
 Face to hear His Excellency's touching panegvric. Ladv 
 Ridgcwav, who was much beloved in Ceylon, was the author 
 of the proposal that this hospital should be founded as the 
 pco])lc's memorial; the project was warmly taken up at once
 
 89. MOHAMMEDAN MOSQUE. 
 
 90. THE VICTORIA MEMORIAL EYE HOSPITAL.
 
 91. THE PRINCES CLUB. 
 
 92. GREGORYS RADIENT.
 
 THE HOOK OI" CICVLOX 65 
 
 and especially appro\ id oi b\' Sir Allan Perry and the whole How to see 
 medical department over wiiich he presides. The tirenier Colombo 
 Memorial Eye and Ear Infirmary erected by subscription in 
 memory of the late Sir Samuel (irenier, .\ttorney-(leneral, 
 forms a department of this hos])it;tl. 
 
 Amonj^st the other fine buildings of this vicinity is the 
 Prince's Club (Plate 91), a lavishly appointed ICuropean institu- 
 tion and a great joy to its members who li\e in the neigh- 
 bourhood. 
 
 The greatest charm to many a visitor is the drive, whic-h cinllamin'' 
 can be extended to ten miles or so, along the many parallel Gardens 
 roads, cross roads and crescents to the west and south of the 
 Victoria Park. These roads are named to commemorate the 
 various British Governors : the Earl of Guildford, Sir Robert 
 Brownrigg, Sir Edward Barnes, Sir Robert W'ilmot Horton, 
 the Right Hon. Stewart Mackenzie, Sir Henry Ward, Sir 
 Charles MacCarthy, Lord Rosmead, Sir William Gregory, Sir 
 James Longden and Sir Arthur Havelock. If we take them 
 in order from the Prince's Club we drive along Guildford 
 Crescent, turn at Gregory's Radient, then take the cross road 
 at the end and return to the Circular Drive by way of Horton 
 Place. Next down Barnes Place and back again by Rosmead 
 Place and so on. A glance at our map will be a suilicient 
 guide. The traveller will be greatly impressed by the excel- 
 lent condition of the roads; not only are they as smooth as 
 the pro\erbial billiard table, but their colour so restful to the 
 eye is in charming contrast to the irrepressible greenery by 
 which they are bordered on every hand. 
 
 Although the cinnamon bushes which once were the pre- 
 dominant feature of the district have for the most part given 
 way to the garden compounds of bungalows, the stranger will 
 not fail to see many still flourishing, and will probably gather 
 a branch which, freshly broken, will emit the pleasant odour 
 of the spice. 
 
 Our plates 92 and 112 faithfullv (l(])ict the character ol tluse liungalows 
 roads which will afford the xisitor a botanical feast. The houses, 
 so different from those of colder countries, quite innocent of 
 dirty chimne\- stacks and lire grates, are quite in accord with 
 the charm of their surroundings. l*!ach residence nestU's in 
 a paradise of palms and llowcring shrubs of infinite \ariety, 
 gorgeous crotons and cixepcrs innumerable, the latter over- 
 growing roofs and pillars and climbing the neighbouring trees, 
 which they bespangle with their lovely blossoms. Words 
 cannot describe these places nor can the best of pictures which 
 modern art can produce gi\c the colour, the glamour and the 
 atmosphere which help to creati- the sensation which makes 
 the trawller feel how sweet and iilca^anl it must he to h\'o
 
 66 
 
 THI': IU)()K OF CEYLON. 
 
 How to see 
 Colombo 
 
 Domestic 
 Economy 
 
 Birds 
 
 in this paradise of warmth and loveliness; how perfect these 
 bungalows with their pretty compounds seem for a life of 
 dolce jar iiicnte. Can this be the same place of which Tennent 
 sixty years ago wrote, " The present aspect of the Cinnamon 
 Gardens produces a feeling of disappointment and melan- 
 choly "? At that time the district was forsaken and neglected. 
 In Europe a beautiful landscape is often shorn of its loveli- 
 ness by the growth of a town; but in Ceylon, with its wealth 
 of rapidly growing flora of every tropical species, the growth 
 of a residential settlement transforms the luxuriant jungle into 
 the more beautiful avenues and cultivated gardens. Moreover, 
 the same improving influence is extended to the reduction of 
 insect pests that are wont to be very troublesome in uncul- 
 tivated places. We do not now at night light fires on the 
 lawn to attract flies from the interior of the bungalow, nor 
 are mosquitoes in dread profusion and beyond control. 
 
 The domestic economy of the European resident is some- 
 what expensive ; but for his money he gets more luxury than 
 for the same amount could be obtained in England. The 
 servants for a small family occupying one of the bungalows 
 which we illustrate would average twelve in number : the appoo 
 or butler, the cook and his mate, the kitchen cooly, the bed- 
 room and dressing boy, the house cooly, the ayah, the punka 
 cooly, the gardener, the horse-keeper or chauft'eur and the 
 dog boy. The sum of wages will amount to about £io a 
 month, the servants providing their own food. The rent of 
 the bungalow will be about £^2>- Housekeeping expenses 
 depend upon so many circumstances that we need only say 
 on the whole the cost of food is about the same as in England. 
 The normal home life of the European differs greatly from the 
 habits of the West. He rises with the sun, the time of whose 
 appearance throughout the year varies only between half-past 
 five and six o'clock. Recreation precedes business and takes 
 the form of riding, tennis, golf and the prosecution of various 
 hobbies and pursuits, such as botanical or natural history 
 studies, for which such unrivalled facilities are afforded. The 
 middle hours of the day are given to indoor business and the 
 evening again to recreations, which include hockey, football 
 and cricket. The conditions are delightful enough, but being 
 perennial become monotonous. There are no seasons ; no 
 change of scene or temperature; and it is just this " too much 
 of a good thing " that makes the European long for a change 
 to the Old Country, where the opposite conditions soon rekindle 
 his taste for the sunnier clime, and hearing " the East 
 a-callin' " he obeys with alacrity. 
 
 Whilst driving through the Cinnamon Gardens manv 
 prettily coloured birds are met with, and amongst the hobbies
 
 
 m 
 
 i /i|ll^.: ^>. 
 
 V'-'^-A 
 
 
 ^^^nr:.:! 
 
 93-100. BUNGALOWS OF COLOMBO.
 
 101. A MODERN BUNGALOW. 
 
 102. THE GARDENS. VICTORIA PARK,
 
 THK HOOK OI" Ci:VL()\ Tx) 
 
 of the residents few are more faseinatinj^ than that of the How to see 
 amateur ornithologist, or as he calls himself "the bird ^"'"'"•'o 
 watcher." The feathered denizens are interesting to manv 'iiuHnU 
 travellers, and with a view to answering their frequent ques- 
 tion " What bird was that? " the following notes are here 
 introduced, and y)rinted in smaller type so that those who 
 take no interest in birds can easily pass them over.* 
 
 One of the commonest birds is porhaps the Madras Hulbul (Molpaslcs 
 hcciiiorrJwus). It associates in pairs, and can be recognised by thf black 
 tuft of feathers on its head (from which it takes its Sinhaleso name, 
 '■ Konde Kurulla," Konde moaning chignon, and Kurulla bird), its 
 smoky-brown body, and the red under-tail coverts. It has a curitjus 
 medley of notes, which are not Ly any means unmusical, but they are so 
 precipitately uttered that one wonders at first if the bird really meant it ! 
 The White-browed Hush Bulbul [Fycnonotus luteolus), or Cinnamon 
 Thrush, has a similar set of notes, only more varied and prolonged. 
 This thrush is, however, not seen very much, owing to its preference for 
 dense trees, its rapid flight, and its dark olive-brcnvn colour. It has a 
 conspicuous white e3-cbrow, as its name denotes, and one cannot go very 
 far without hearing its note. 
 
 Quite a different tune has the little Tora [Tifhia zeylotica). His pretty, 
 clear, and flute-like notes are often heard. He is a dandy little fellow in 
 his habits and dress of yellow and black, the latter colour being replaced 
 by green in his mate, and he may often be seen in a variety of positions 
 searching for insects and grubs in the trees. 
 
 Another small bird — the smallest we have, but, for all that, responsible 
 for the spread of several species of mistletoe, by which manv valuable 
 fruit trees are ruined — mz-y only make its appearance known by its sharp 
 note, which sounds something like " tchik, tchik." It is an ashv-olive- 
 coloured bird with lighter under-parts, and is known as Tickell's Flower- 
 pecker [Diccciim crythrorhynchus'). 
 
 We then come to the sunbirds, which from their plumage command 
 attention. There are three very much alike at first sight : Loten's Sun- 
 bird (Arachnechthra lotenia), named after a Dutch Governor of Ceylon 
 who first recorded it, which is larger than the next two and has a bright 
 plumage of metallic green glossed with lilac, and brown wings. The 
 second is the Purple Sunbird (A. asiafica), which is similar in plumage, 
 but is smaller. There can be no difficulty in distinguishing between these 
 two, as the larger bird has a proportionately larger and more curved beak. 
 The third of these beautiful creatures is the Ceylonese Sunbird (.'1. 
 ceylanica), which is about the same in size and plumage as .1. astiiliia, 
 but it has a yellow breast and under-parts. The females in all three cases 
 are clad in a sombre greenish-brown. All three have long curved beaks, 
 that in Loten's Sunbird being the longest, which nature has provided for 
 the extraction of nectar from the flowers. There are few more beautiful 
 sights than one of the birds " humming " over the topmost fl(jwers of the 
 Suriah-trees when seen through a pair of powerful glasses. 
 
 The low-country Whiteye ('/.oslcro f^s ccylnnrusis) is a small and pretty 
 bird, which can be recognised by the white patch of feathr-rs round the 
 eye. It is olive-green in colour, with yellowish under-parts. This bird 
 has a wide range on the adjoining continent. A slightly different bird 
 (Z. cry/ one list's) is very fri(]Uent!y seen in the gardens in N'nwara Mliya, 
 and is peculiar to Ceylon. 
 
 * The author is indebted for the notes on birds in this volume to his nephew, 
 Mr. ^\^^Uer .\shby Cave.
 
 70 THK BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 How to see Amongst the topmost branches of the taller trees you may see a bird 
 
 Colombo about th(? size of a sparrow, with blackish-grey upper-parts and a fine red 
 
 breast; it is the little Minivft [I'ericrocotus fcre^rimis). He is usually 
 
 lie liuds accompanied by four or five females, all arrayed in much more sombre 
 
 dress. He is a migratory bird, and spends the winter months with us. 
 
 The Green Bee-eater [Mero-ps viridis) is a fairly common bird, espe- 
 cially in the dry zone, and may often be seen sitting on the telegraph 
 wires or on a conspicuous branch, preferably a bare one. It has the two 
 middle feathers in its tail longer than the others, a curved beak, and 
 pretty, bright-green plumage. You will be better able to distinguish him 
 by the graceful evolutions he makes in catching insects. He darts out 
 from his perch, sails in the most graceful of curves, secures his prey, 
 and then returns to his perch. There is a similar migratory bird which 
 is often seen, the Blue-tailed Bee-eater (Mero-ps -philliffinus), but he is 
 much larger, and has the central tail feathers prolonged like the other. 
 His habits are similar to the smaller bird, and his plumage is a bronze 
 green. 
 
 Mention must next be made of the Common Drongo [Dicrurus ater), 
 or King Crow, for his flight is like that of the Bee-eaters, but even more 
 graceful. It is worth stopping to watch a party of two or three Drongos 
 darting out after insects. They, too, perform in the most wonderful way 
 in flight, turning this way and that in an extraordinar}' manner. In 
 appearance the King Crow is a glossy black all over, about the size of a 
 starling, and has a forked tail. There is another bird very much like 
 him, except for whitish under-parts — the White-bellied Drongo [Dicrurus 
 C(zrulesccns), an indigenous species. Both birds have similar habits. 
 The Ceylon Black Drongo [Dissenuirus copJiorhinus), although seen at 
 times, cannot be classed as a common bird. It is chiefly confined to the 
 wet forests of the western half of Ceylon, replacing the large Racquet- 
 tailed Drongo (Pisseniunis faradiseus) of the dry country. 
 
 One of the noisiest of birds is the Indian Koel [Eudynamys honorata), 
 whose note, " Ku-il," or " Who-be-j'ou? " is uttered during the nesting 
 season, which lasts from March until July. The Koel is a Cuckoo, and 
 has the characteristic flight ; were it not for this, and its longer tail, it 
 would be difficult to distinguish, as its plumage is black, like that of the 
 crow. The hen bird is, however, different, having a dress of mottled 
 brown and white. Like the common Cuckoo, the Koel alters his note in 
 May and June, but in a different way. Beginning on the usual note, he 
 gradually goes up a scale until he finally reaches a very high and almost 
 unformable note. It is unlike Ciiciiliis canorus in its selection of a nest 
 for the deposition of its eggs, for it prefers the nest of the crow to those 
 of smaller birds, probably because of the striking likeness of the eggs of 
 both species. 
 
 We have probably met with, ere this, a ver}' dowdy, common-looking 
 bird feeding with several others of his species at the side of the road. 
 His plumage is a dusty-brown colour, his beak and legs a pale yellow, 
 making up a somewhat unattractive specimen. We have, however, said 
 the worst about him, lor whatever we may add must be to his credit. He 
 is known as the Common Babbler [Argya canda/ii), and is justified in his 
 name, for he and his party do a vast amount of babbling. You will 
 generally see six or seven together, and from this they get one of their 
 many other names — the Seven Brothers. He is also known as the Dust 
 or Dirt Bird, but he honestly does not deserve the epithet, for although 
 his appearance is against him he is a happy fi-llow, most sociable and 
 amiable to his friends, sharing his finds with them, and keeping on good 
 terms generally. \Mien disturbed he will fl}' away very indolently to a 
 tree close by, followed by his mates one after the other, and then will 
 ensue such a volume of talk as to the reason of the disturbance.
 
 103. HORTON PLACE. 
 
 104. HORTON PLACe. 
 
 105. GREGORYS RADIENT. 
 
 lOG. GENERAL HOSPITAL. 
 
 
 4 
 
 IM 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 BP-- -,=^=^5^^;;^ ^-.j 
 
 ^* 
 
 '•mir^ .; 
 
 
 J 
 
 107. KOCH r.1E'.10FllAL TOWEH 
 
 100. FLOWER ROAO. 
 
 no. FLOwin ROAO.
 
 m. ADAM'S PEAK FROM THE COLOMBO GOLF LINKS. 
 
 112. NORTON PLACE,
 
 THI-: IU)()K OF Ci:VL()\ 7- 
 
 If you hear a noise of someone or something which seems to be in the Hou to see 
 worst of tempers, you may be sure the sound emanates from the Drown Colombo 
 Shrike (Lanius crislalus). It is easy to trace him, for he gives vent to 
 his feelings, on some conspicuous bough, by uttering a harsh rattling note '' ''"^''^ 
 and moving his tail about much in the same way as a cat does when angry. 
 In appearance he is a miniature hawk, his plumage is a soft reddish 
 brown, and his dark eyebrow very conspicuous. The family is, of c(jurse, 
 one of the butcher-birds, and the querulous note is one of the first we 
 hear of the migrants which come to us in October for the winter. 
 
 With a harsh rasping .scream, a bird of most exquisite plumage will 
 wing his wa\' across an open space. You cannot mistake him ; he is the 
 \Vhite-breasted Kingfisher {Halcyon smyrm-risis), and in his dress he 
 excels in the beauty of his colouring all the feathered tribe that we shall 
 meet with in this short drive. You may now hear a plaintive little crv, 
 starting on a high note and running down a scale ; the Kingfisher is 
 perched on the topmost bough of some tall tree, and it is only then that 
 we can see and appreciate his glorious plumage. His back is a gorgeous 
 shining blue, the under-parts a dark chestnut ; his waistcoat is always 
 pure white, and his long beak a very dark crimson. The \Yhite-breasted 
 Kingfisher is a very common bird, being well distributed over the whole 
 of the low country. 
 
 A kindred species, but smaller, is the little Indian Kingfisher (Alcedo 
 ispida), which is almost as beautiful in plumage, but lacks the white 
 breast. Dr. J3owdler Sharpe considers the Indian bird to be in.separable 
 from the well-known British species. It is not, however, a very common 
 bird, except in the interior of the country and perhaps near the quieter 
 waters of the lake, but it deserves mention. 
 
 Sometimes the note seems far away, and at fathers it sounds quite close, 
 a monotonous '" wok-wok-wok,'' repeated for long spells, and then altered 
 to double-quick time, as though the bird were impatient at something. 
 When once it has been suggested that it is the Coppersmith, or Crimson- 
 breasted Harbet {Xantholoeiua hcrmatoce-phala), the sound cannot be mis- 
 taken, for the note is exactly an imitation of a man hammering a copper 
 vessel. In its way the Coppersmith is no mean ventriloquist, for as it 
 utters its note it moves its head from side to side, and the sound seems 
 to come from several directions. If a bird is observed, one cannot say 
 positively that the note is being uttered by it, for the '" wok-wok " 
 generally seems to come from another tree. That, however, is a trick of 
 the Coppersmith. It is a difficult bird to see, for its plumage is green, 
 like the foliage, but its head and breast are smothered in colours, like a 
 painter's palette — j'ellow, red, blue, and crimson are all mixed up in a 
 wonderful way. 
 
 On a hot day, driving through the lesser populated outskirts of 
 Colombo, one cannot but be struck by the monotonous repetition of a note 
 that sounds like '"koturr, koturr, koturr,"' steadily repeated. This is the 
 cry of the orange-headed Cnen Harbet (Cyanofs fa-iifrons). So per- 
 fectly does the colouring of this handsome bird assimilate with its leafy 
 environment that it is not an easy matter to "spot" this moderately large 
 bird, that, from the monotony of its note, has been included among many 
 of our " brain-fever birds." 
 
 Like the last, but a much larger and coarsely-coloured bird, is the 
 common Indian C.reen Harbet (Thereiccryx ziloniciis], generally distri- 
 buted in the low country of Ceylon. It is usually to be found in numbers 
 when the banyan trees are in fruit, and can be recognised without difficultv 
 by its brown-speckled head and neck, and large, pale orange-coloured bill. 
 
 One of the most beautiful birds we have in the Cinnamon Cardens is 
 the Hlack-headed Oriole (Oriolus vielanocefhalus), or Manco Hird. as 
 his plumage resembles the colour of that particular fruit. He wears a
 
 The birds 
 
 74 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 How to see dress of beautiful yellow and black ; you cannot mistake him, only you 
 Colombo should always be on the look-out for the black head, as there is another 
 
 species, very rare in Colombo, we believe, which has a golden-yellow 
 head. The Orioles are great fruit-eaters, and are more often seen in 
 March or Aj)ril when the fruit season commences. 
 
 Of the ^Iunias we can really only put one on our list of common birds 
 of Colombo ; although perhaps others may be seen, I have looked in vain 
 for them. The Spotted Munia (IJroloncha fiinctulata) is the one most 
 often seen ; it is a little bird, slightly smaller than a sparrow, and of the 
 same family. The upper-parts of the plumage are dull chocolate in 
 colour, and the under-parts white with brownish spots forming transverse 
 bars. The Munias are the silliest birds imaginable. You may see one 
 on the ground amongst some dead rushes ; he picks up one about si.x times 
 his own size, and flies with it in a bee-line to his nest, which may be in 
 course of construction. Anyone can find a Munia's nest; it is a clumsy 
 affair, put together in a flimsy way, and big enough to hold several 
 families, which, indeed, some of them often do. 
 
 The Indian Roller [Coracias indica) scarcely deserves mention here, 
 but it may be seen, and so perhaps a short description is necessary. In 
 size and appearance it resembles the jay, but the markings are more 
 varied. Dark and light blues will be noticed in vivid contrast, whilst 
 the under-parts are a light chestnut. He is also known as " the smoke 
 bird," as he is said to be often attracted to the vicinity of a fire. 
 
 The Indian Pitta [Pitta brachynra) deserves mention, but it is not a 
 common bird. Its other name is the Painted Thrush, on account of the 
 variety of beautiful colours in its plumage. The wings are black, with 
 greenish and turquoise blue and a white band, the chin and throat white, 
 the upper-parts green " washed with brown," there is turquoise blue in 
 the tail, whilst the under-parts are fawn. The under-tail coverts are 
 scarlet. It is a migratory bird, and arrives in considerable numbers, but 
 being shy and possessed of weak powers of flight, it seeks the denser 
 shrubs and trees, and is therefore not often seen, although its note is 
 sometimes heard. Its native name of " Avichchia " is taken from its cry, 
 which is usually heard at about sunset or just at dusk. 
 
 Of the Flycatchers we may possibly see two kinds. The commonest 
 is the little Southern Brown Flycatcher [Alsconax latirostris)^ which is 
 merely a small brown bird, and cannot be described more fully. You will 
 probably notice it perched on a twig of some tall tree, but you cannot 
 tell that it is a Flycatcher until you have noticed it darting out for insects 
 and returning to its perch. The other bird is the Paradise Flycatcher 
 (Terfsifhotic faradisi). It is about the size of a lark ; the head is metallic 
 bluish-black, with a tuft of feathers, and in the first year the male is 
 dressed in rich chestnut. As time goes on, the lateral tail feathers begin 
 to lengthen until they reach a great length, and are cast after a few 
 months. In the fourth year the plumage, with the exception of the head, 
 changes completely to white, the long tail feathers being assumed again. 
 The native name for the Paradise Flycatcher means Cotton Thief, for 
 the long feathers streaming out behind as it flies give an idea of cotton 
 being carried. 
 
 As we drive round the race-course we can generally be sure of seeing 
 the Madras Rush Lark [Mirajra affinis). It is just a lark, but may be 
 distinguished by its pretty habit of throwing itself up into the air to a 
 height of about thirty feet and descending with its wings arched. This 
 performance is repeated time after time, as the lark gradually makes its 
 way down the course. Here, too, companies of swallows may be seen 
 sitting on the wires of the starting-gates, or flying about in the character- 
 istic way over the grass. During the winter of 1906-7 a flock of seven 
 Black-sided Lapwings (Chettusia grcgaria) took up its quarters on the
 
 INKS. 
 
 114 THE RIDGEWAY GOLF LINKS.
 
 1 ~"i||| iwmn 
 ■ II' 
 
 iilLlllillll! 
 
 115. THE HAVEL'JCK (:-l( COURSE. 
 
 116. THE GRAND STAND. 
 
 117. THE COLOIVIBO GOLF CLUB PAVILION.
 
 THE HOOK Ol" Cl-:\LOX 77 
 
 race-course, and was frequently seen, but it is by no means common here How to sec 
 The fact, however, is worthy of record. Colombo 
 
 The Common Grass or Rufous l-an-lail Warbkr [Cislicola cursilaiis) 
 frequents the grass fields all round Colombo, and is equall)' common at 
 Nuwara I'Uiya. It is another small brown bird distinguished by its 
 spasmodic flight, which ccjnsists of series of jerks, during each one of 
 which it utters a sharp " tchik." 
 
 The Havelock Race-course, like so many other things in vve Race-course 
 Ceylon, is second to none in the East. Its position to the 
 sotith of the Victoria Park will be seen in our map. Here the 
 Colombo Turi Club has its regular race meetings. Ciymkhanas 
 and other sports are also held here at \arious intervals under 
 the auspices of the Polo Club, whose ground is the open space 
 inside the course. Plate 116 depicts the grand stand and lawn 
 enclosure. For many years a race-course was included in the 
 manifold uses to which Gallc Face was applied, when the 
 Colombo Club served as a grand stand. The present improxed 
 arrangements are due to the initiative of Captain Channer, R. X. 
 
 The Ridgcway Ciolf Links are reached by driving to the lUc Coij i.mki 
 end of Horton Place. The course is extensive, complete and 
 well laid out. The greens will be found very fast but generally 
 excellent. Some idea of the pavilion and the course will be 
 gathered from plates 113, 114 and 117. 'ihe game is im- 
 mensely popular in Colombo, and pla\- is good. The member- 
 ship of the club exceeds three hundred. Visitors are welcome 
 and their verdict usually is that golf is a very pleasant game 
 to play in the tropics. 
 
 Various medical institutions are situated in the neighbour- //o</)im/s 
 hood of the Cinnamon Gardens, including the General Hospital 
 (Plates 106 and 108) occupying eleven acres of ground. There 
 are thoroughly well equipped wards for travellers (Plate loH) 
 who may arrive sick or who may become ill during their 
 sojourn in Ceylon ; the fees being fourteen shillings entrance 
 fee and ten shillings per day. Other wards offer suitable 
 accommodation for all classes, the fees for paying patients 
 being very moderate. The Ce\lon Medical College opposite 
 is carried on in accordance with the Medical .\cts of Great 
 Britain and its licentiates are at liberty to practise throui^hout 
 the I'nited Kingdom. 
 
 There are several interesting I'outrs I)\ wliii ii we ma\ 
 return to the Fort and our map should be ci)nsultetl. If afti'r 
 our wanderings we happen to be near the race-course we shall 
 drive down Race-course Avenue and return to (ialle I'"ace or 
 the Fort by way of Mower Road (Plates log and iio), Green 
 Path (Plate 120) or Turrrt Road (Plate iiS) and Kollupiliya. 
 About two hundred xards Ix'lore \\c arrive upon llie Kolhi- 
 piti\a Road, at a short distance on our rij^lit, are the ( hureh
 
 7<S THE 1K)()K ()!'' CICNLON 
 
 How to see ol Si, Michael and All Angels, and the Matthew Memorial 
 Colombo Uyii^ erected to the memory of the Venerable Walter E. 
 
 Matthew, Archdeacon of Colombo, who died in 1889 (Plates 
 119 and 121). In this neighbourhood and indeed during the 
 whole of our drive homewards many beautiful trees will claim 
 our attention in addition to the palm. Particularly noticeable 
 are the breadfruit, the cotton, the mango, the almond, the 
 vanilla, the jak and the tamarind. As we near Kollupitiya the 
 merry note of the busy little Indian tailor-bird {Orlholonius 
 sutorius) is heard. 
 
 " Tow-whit-tow-vvhit," he calls to his mate, who follows him from 
 tree to tree in search of insects. The Tailor Bird belongs to the warbler 
 class; it is a difficult bird to get a sight of, on account of its olive-green 
 plumage, its small size, and its partiality to thick bushes. His head is 
 chestnut, and if you see him uttering his note you cannot help but notice 
 two black patches on his throat, which expand to a considerable e.xtent. 
 He has a fairly long tail, which is lacking in his mate ; his legs are long, 
 and altogether he strikes one as being the most workmanlike little fellow, 
 as indeed he is. The wonderful nests, made of leaves stitched together 
 with thread, and comfortably lined, require a lot of finding. They are 
 marvellous structures, but we have no space or time to go into further 
 details. 
 
 The Magpie Robin {Cofsychus salauris) is a conspicuous bird which is 
 often met with along the road. He is clad in black and white, the mark- 
 ings being very similar to those of the magpie ; the hen, however, has a 
 slaty-coloured breast instead of black. In its habits it is much like the 
 robin, but is larger in size. Possessing a very sweet voice, it may often 
 be seen sitting on a conspicuous branch pouring forth a number of clear- 
 toned and harmonious notes, which, however, do not amount to a song. 
 Its sociable habits and frequent presence in all gardens make it a delight- 
 ful pet. A near relative to the Magpie Robin is the Ceylon or Black Robin 
 (I ha-mnobia julicaia), which resembles the robin more in size than does 
 the black-and-white bird. The plumage of the Ceylon Robin is very 
 simple, the cock being jet black, with chestnut-coloured under-tail coverts 
 and a white bar on the wing, which, however, only appears in flight. The 
 hen bird is dressed in sombre rusty brown ; one notices a ver}^ marked 
 difference between them when a pair is seen together, as they often are. 
 You will, however, never notice it perching on a tree ; it seems to be 
 against its caste, but wherever there is a wall or any brickwork you will 
 see him jerking his tail right back to his neck, and uttering his lively 
 chirping note. He is a friendly bird, a cheery companion, and quite 
 fearless of man. 
 
 Muiwaii A drive round the suburb of Mutwall, to the north of the 
 
 Fort, would make our acquaintance with Colombo nearly 
 complete, and is to be recommended in case of this being our 
 first experience of a tropical city. Our way is through Main 
 Street (Plate 122) and the Pettah (Plate 126), where we shall 
 again be interested in the quaint scenes of native daily life 
 and occupation. We pass the Dutch Belfry, the Town Hall 
 and the Market Place and turn into Wolfendahl Street which 
 bears to the right and leads direct to a most interesting 
 remnant of the Dutch occupation, a massive Church in Doric
 
 
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 THE PETTAH. 
 
 123. BOUTIQUE. 
 
 24. THE PETTAH. 
 
 125. THE PETT; 
 
 HEDRAL OF SANTA LUCIA. 
 
 128. CATHEDRAL OF ST. THOMAS.
 
 THE ROOK OF CEYLON 
 
 8i 
 
 style, built by the Dutch in 1749. The drive may now be How to see 
 continued in a north-easterly direction to the Roman Catholic ^"'""ibo 
 Cathedral ol Santa Lucia (IMate 127) which is the finest buildinij 
 in Colombo. Its cupola, which is not visible in our plate, but 
 is visible at greater distance, is 170 feet high. The nave is 
 capable of accommodating six thousand persons. In a north- 
 westerly direction another half-mile brings us to St. Thomas' s^. Thomas' 
 College (Plate 128), one of the leading educational institutions " '^^* 
 of the colony, founded by Bishop Chapman, first Anglican 
 Bishop of Colombo in 1H51. Mere the model of an English 
 public school, such as Dulwich, is followed as far as prac- 
 ticable ; the curriculum and the sports are practically the same. 
 The grounds are picturesque and contain some of the finest 
 banyan trees in Colombo. The lawn, which is extensive, and 
 serves for cricket and other sports, is surrounded by the school- 
 rooms, lecture rooms, masters' houses, dormitories, a handsome 
 library hung with portraits of past Wardens, a dining-hall, 
 and the Warden's house, all separately located; while the 
 Anglican Cathedral, the tower of which is seen in Plate 128, 
 is also situated within the grounds and does duty as a College 
 Chapel. The English have not much reason to be proud of 
 their Cathcdial cxccpl as a relic of the splendid work of the The F.nglnh 
 first Bishop in 1X5,1. Then it was ample and in accordance Cathedral 
 with the needs of the diocese; Ijut considering the increase of 
 h>uropean population and wealth and the expansion of other 
 institutions it is somewhat discreditable that a fine Cathedral 
 has not been erected ere now in a more central position. 
 
 From the tower of the Cathedral a good view of the harbour 
 may be obtained, but more interesting still is the curious sight 
 of the thousands of acres of palms which, when looked at from 
 this loftN- eminence, seem to completely bury the city beneath 
 tluir multitudinous crowns of gigantic waving fronds. 
 
 The sul)urb of Mutwall has been to some extent robbed of 
 its beaut\- b\- the great encroachment of harbour works and 
 fortifications, but beyond these it is more beautiful and inter- 
 esting than anv other part of the coast near Colomix). it is 
 cb.icllx inlia1)itatr(l h\- fishers, who are mosll\ i\onian ("atliolics, 
 a sui\i\al ol the Portuguese occupation; e\ ick'nl testimony of 
 tliis is seen in tlie numerous Roman Catholic Churches as 
 we dri\e along the Modara Road. .St. James' Church is 
 particularK- wortln- of our attention. .\ short distance beyond 
 this church the noble Kelani River rolls into the Indian Ocean. 
 Near the mouth is the most picturesque bit of coast near 
 Colombo. The cocoanut groxcs which fringe the shore cast 
 their shadows upon a little \illage of fishers' huts, sc-attered 
 irregularly amongst a luxuriant undergrowth ol ( urious {grasses 
 and red-fiowered convoKuli.
 
 82 THF, HOOK OI'" CKVI.OX 
 
 How to see 'riicrr is an island here very close to the shore whir h w ill 
 
 Colombo ,n,| cscai^e notice. The noisv chorus of the Colombo (row 
 
 CroK' ishuui will arrest our attention. It is his home and is kntjwn as 
 Crow Island, whence he, de|)arts in his thousands at l)reak of 
 day to foraf^e around the whole city and whither he returns 
 at nis^ht to roost. He bears a character which has been notic ed 
 by every author who has written about Ceylon. He is to be 
 seen in every place where food, ^ood or bad, can be found. 
 I'nlikc his species in ICuropc he is utterly devoid of all timidity. 
 Coronc l<"or sheer impudence and cool daring' he stands unrivalled in 
 
 impuduns ^^^^ feathery tribe. He will appear in your presence at the 
 
 dining table when least expected, and fly off with a choice 
 morsel ; he w'ill swoop down and take biscuit or fruit from a 
 child's hand unoffcred ; he will enter your bedroom window 
 and rob you of the toast and butter brought in with your early 
 cup of tea, and he is so quick in his movements that he will 
 catch in his beak any food you may throw out of the window 
 before it can reach the ground. My first acquaintance with 
 him created a lasting impression upon me. It was at St. 
 Thomas' College which, as w'e have seen, is in this vicinity. 
 At my first tiffin in the college hall, a lofty building with roof 
 supported by pillars, surrounded by a verandah and open to 
 the garden on all sides, it was the custom to keep a Sinhalese 
 bov with a rifle on his shoulder patrolling around the verandah 
 during meals to keep off the crows, a gun being the only 
 known thing- for which the Colombo crow has any respect. In 
 this he seems to share the instinct of his species everywhere. 
 Rejoicing in the distinctive scientific title of Corone splendcus , 
 he is the most impudent, rascally, raucous-voiced, grey-necked 
 thief known to humanity. Corone inipucUens some authorities 
 appropriatelv label him. After this somewhat scathing con- 
 demnation which the crow deserves w'e must admit that he is 
 entitled to a good word, for he is the most useful bird to be 
 found in Ceylon. His usefulness lies in his ability as a 
 scavenger, a vocation which, being a dirty feeder, he prose- 
 cutes to the advantage of the whole community. 
 
 The shores of Mutwall present many charming pictures at 
 eventide. When the fishing canoes are drawn up on the land 
 (Plate 130), their huge square sails stretched out and drying 
 in the breeze, and the afterglow throws a soft orange light 
 upon the objects along the shore, the scene is most enchanting. 
 Fishing from the rocks is indulged in by little naked 
 Sinhalese children with rod, line and hook, but without bait ; 
 and very curious it is to watch them skilfully hooking fish in 
 this manner as thev rise in shoals near the surface of the 
 water. 
 
 Upon returning from Mutwall we can vary our route by
 
 130. SINHALESE FISHING CANOES. 
 
 131. ST. JOHN STREET. PETTAH.
 
 Z'R*? t 
 
 132. THE SINHALESE COMB MANUFACTURER. 
 
 133. THE BARBER.
 
 THE HOOK OF CKVLOX 85 
 
 keeping- to the roads bordcrin"- on the coast; but when St. How to see 
 John Street in the Pettah is reached (I'late 131) it will be worth ^^u'ombo 
 while to drive through it and watch the avocations of the 
 natives, and the numerous races of people represented in the 
 crowds through which we pass. 
 
 Perhaps there is nothing in Sinhalese customs that strikes T<n!.,iu-siu!! 
 th(! stranger from the West more forcibly as being extra- <^omb maktnt; 
 ordinary and peculiar than the custom which requires the 
 male population of the low country to wear long hair twisted 
 into a coil at the back of the head and a horse-shoe shaped 
 tortoise-shell comb at the lop, w liile the women ixinain innocent 
 of this form of adornment. In recent years manv of the 
 wealthier classes have relinquished this custom; but it is still 
 very much in vogue, and the classes vie with one another in 
 the quality and iinish of the comb. One of the great ambitions 
 of the men of humble position is to possess and wear one of 
 the finest lustre and most perfect manufacture, while manv 
 mark their higher social position with an additional comb which 
 rises to a considerable height above their glossy coil at the 
 back. This custom supports a large number of manufacturers 
 (Plate 132). The artist in tortoise-shell obtains his raw material 
 from the hawk's-bill turtle. His methods of detaching the 
 scales were once so barbarous and cruel that a special law had 
 to be passed forbidding them. The poor creatures used to be 
 captured and suspended o\er a fire till the heat made the 
 scales drop off, and then they were released to grow more. 
 The practice arose from the circumstance that if the shell was 
 taken from the animal after death the colour became cloudy 
 and milky. This, however, can be obviated by killing the 
 turtle and immediately immersing the carcase in boiling water. 
 The plates when separated from the bony part of the animal 
 are very irregular in form. They are flattened by heat and 
 pressure and the superficial inequalities are rasped away ; 
 being very hard and brittle they require careful manipulation 
 especially as a high temperature which would soften them 
 tends to darken and cloud the shell ; they are therefore treated 
 at as low a heat as is possible for the work. Thickness is 
 obtained by softening several plates and then applying pressure 
 w^hen a union of the surfaces takes place. L'ndir heat the shell 
 is also moulded into various artifi(-ial forms. 
 
 The vellow \'arietv of tortoiseshell, obtained from tlie ( l;i\\s 
 of the animal and fused together, is greatly prized I)y tlu- conih- 
 wearing Sinhalese, who pay a high price for it. 
 
 Hut the opposite extreme is adopted by the .Malabar 'i'amils .v<i/iii- toiut 
 and Moormen, who support a considerable number of natixc 
 artists whose operations are destructive rather than construc- 
 tive — these carry on the trade of professional barber in the
 
 86 THI-: HOOK OI-- CKYLON 
 
 How to see open Streets. The operator (I'late 133) sits upon his feet on 
 
 Colombo .J j^-,.,^ ]jy {j^j^. ,-,jad-side, and his patient squats in the same 
 
 manner I'acinj^- him. What touj^^h scalps these fellows must 
 have ! The barber uses no soap to soften his \i(tim's hair, 
 but wielding- his keen weapon with wonderful dexterity, re- 
 moves every trace of it by a few rapid strokes, leaving the 
 surface as polished and shining as a new copper kettle. In 
 the Pettah a dozen or more of these quaint operations may be 
 seen in passing through a single street, many of the patients 
 being quaint little brown urchins of various ages. 
 
 The hctd stall 'f he stranger cannot fail to notice the ubiquity of the scene 
 
 represented in plate 134, the betel stall. Here are two women, 
 who may have been beautiful in a period now somewhat 
 remote, engaged in an occupation that is often adopted as 
 they advance in years. They are ministering to the solace 
 and gratification of the wayfarer, by supplying him with the 
 three articles that contribute the greatest pleasure of the 
 native palate — betel leaves, chunam and areca nuts. 
 
 The hetfi habit The habit of chcwing these is almost universal, and to say 
 
 that they take the place of tobacco amongst Europeans falls 
 much short of the truth ; for while smoking is fairly common 
 among the civilised races of Europe it is not general among 
 both men and women as is betel chewing in Ceylon. The 
 method is as follows. The areca nut is first sliced and then 
 cut into tiny pieces by means of nippers. A few of these pieces 
 together with a small quantity of lime made from calcined 
 shells or coral are wrapped in a piece of betel leaf and placed 
 in the mouth. The chewing of this mixture is said to be 
 pleasant and to produce a soothing effect and also serves the 
 useful purpose of a prophylactic for those whose diet consists 
 almost entirely of rice or other vegetable foods. The origin 
 of the habit is a very ancient one, being mentioned by his- 
 torians in times preceding the present era. It is very likely 
 that in the first instance utility gave rise to the custom, which, 
 like many others, has in time grown to be abused by excessive 
 indulgence. 
 
 A disagreeable effect of betel-chewing is the discoloration 
 of the teeth ; the betel leaf and areca nut together colour the 
 saliva a deep red, with the result that lips and teeth acquire a 
 blood-stained appearance. This does not strike the natives 
 themselves as being in the least degree objectionable, although 
 to the European it seems a great disfigurement, especially as 
 the Sinhalese have excellent teeth which are naturally pearly 
 white as may be seen in the few who provide the necessary 
 exceptions to the general rule. Every man and woman of the 
 humbler classes, young or old, carries somewhere in the folds 
 of the waistcloth or concealed in the turban a little box or
 
 134. THE BETEL NUT. 
 
 135. THE BETEL VINE.
 
 136. THE MALDIVE BUGGALOW. 
 
 137. BETEL-LEAF VENDOR. 
 
 138. THE LAPIDARY.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 89 
 
 basket containing- the three necessaries, and from morning till How to see 
 
 night on every favourable opportunity the munching goes on. t^oiombo 
 
 Those among the wealthy who have adopted l'2uropean customs 
 
 have to a considerable extent given up the habit, generally in 
 
 favour of tobacco, nor do these stand in need of the corrective 
 
 to an exclusively vegetarian diet ; but they are the exceptions. 
 
 The native gentleman as a rule has his ornamental betel box 
 
 of silver, and it is the duty of his chief servant to keep 
 
 it replenished. He does not take wine, but he extracts as 
 
 many of the pleasures of conviviality from the well-prepared 
 
 l)ctcl, which is offered at ceremonial visits, as does the 
 
 I'^uropean from his wine. 
 
 The stranger is puzzled to account for the white finger- Chunam marks 
 marks or smears everywhere to be seen upon walls and build- 
 ings ; not even the finest buildings being spared this deface- 
 ment. It is due to the disgusting habit of the lower classes 
 of natives of wiping their fingers upon the walls after mixing 
 the areca nut with moistened chunam or lime. The marks are 
 therefore known as chunam marks, " chunam " being the 
 native term for lime. So ingrained is this method of cleansing 
 the fingers, that nothing short of severe punishment will stop it. 
 
 Some years ago a Kandyan oilicial exhibited printed notices 
 in the precincts of certain buildings to the effect that only 
 Rodiyas (outcasts of the lowest type) were allowed to wipe 
 their chunam-bcdaubcd fingers upon the walls, and for some 
 time it is said this ironical permission had a restraining cflcct. 
 
 I1 will be evident that the custom of betel chewing maintains 
 three extensive industries, the cultivation of the betel \ine and 
 the areca-nut palm, and the production and preparation of 
 lime from shells and coral. 
 
 The betel vine is allied to the plant w hich yields black Cutiurc «/ 
 pepper, and in similar manner is trained as a creeper upon '"''' '"'"" 
 sticks and trees. Our illustration (Plate 135) shows the plant 
 in cultivation. Patches, sometimes of an acre in extent, are 
 to be seen near towns and villages. Women collect the leaves, 
 arrange them with care in bundles, as seen in our illustration 
 (Plate 137) and send them to market. Thousands of tons are 
 sent to Colombo from the outlying country districts. .\l)out 
 twenty tons weekly are sent by rail from Henaratgoda alone. 
 The shape of the leaf will be seen from our illustrations ; it is of 
 a fleshy texture and in size, when fully mature, about as large 
 as a man's hand. Leaves of betel are also used to enwraji the 
 offerings of money presented in temples. 
 
 The; Maldive Islands supply a large quantity of the coral r.imt 
 lime, which is landed south of Colombo, and prepared for the 
 market in the coast villages. The Maldi\ e buggalow, a curious 
 craft which brings the coral, returns laden with areca nuts.
 
 go Tin-: iK)()K ov (■I•:^■LON 
 
 How to -see 'J'hc pyramids ol liinc to he seen ujx)!! the heads of women, 
 
 Colombo rarryiiii; it to market in the c-aiiy morninj^- upon the Galle 
 
 Road, south of Colombo, look like heaps of iced confectionery; 
 the liner quality has j)ink colouring matter added, and resembles 
 strawberry ice-cream, but in appearance only. 
 
 The fruit of the areca palm is about the size of a small 
 hen's e.i;.^', and grows in clusters beneath the crown of feathery 
 foliage at the top of the stem. The so-called nut is the seed, 
 which is found within the fibrous husk or rind. It is of a 
 pretty mottled grey and brown colour. It needs very little 
 preparation; generally it is only sliced and dried in the sun, 
 but sometimes it is previously boiled. Further reference to 
 the areca palm will be made in our description of the Kelani 
 \"alley, where it grows in great profusion. 
 
 The lapidary The extensive output of precious stones, for which Ceylon 
 
 has been famous from the earliest times, gives employment to 
 upwards of four hundred lapidaries, many of whom are to be 
 seen in Colombo working patiently and placidly in shanties 
 scarcely corresponding with the wealth that they sometimes 
 harbour. The cutting and polishing of the gems by native 
 hands in the land where they are found gives an added interest 
 to the visitor. 
 
 Plate 138 represents the lapidary at work. The variety of 
 stones that pass through his fingers in the course of the year 
 is quite bewildering ; for Ceylon not only yields in abundance 
 sapphires, rubies, cat's-eyes, moonstones, amethysts, alexan- 
 drite, chrysoberyl, garnet, jacinth and many others, but each 
 in such variety that many, such as the sapphire and ruby stars, 
 vary so much in tint that the ordinary mortal cannot alwavs 
 distinguish them. 
 
 Coiy matting Plate 1 39 introduces another modest worker of Colombo, 
 
 engaged in the humble occupation of weaving coir matting. 
 The fibrous husk of the cocoanut is not its least valuable part, 
 and amongst its many uses that of matting is perhaps the most 
 familiar. The visitor can see every process of the many manu- 
 factures in which the cocoanut palm provides the raw material, 
 and they cannot fail to arouse considerable interest. Further 
 reference to them in this work is made in treating of the various 
 places where they are carried on.
 
 139. THE SINHALESE WEAVER OF COIR MATTING. 
 
 140. IN CHATHAM STREET LOOKING TO THE FORT RAILWAY STATION
 
 141. COMPOSITE COACH. 
 
 142. SLEEPING SALOON COACH. 
 
 143. TRAIN ON THE COAST LINE AT MOUNT LAVINIA.
 
 THE 
 CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAYS. 
 
 THERK is no consideration more important to the tra\eller The 
 who intends visiting a far-off country than the facilities Railways 
 afforded by its railways and roads. Fortunately Ceylon is well 
 equipped in both respects. Her railways now afford an easy and 
 even luxurious means of reaching the most attractive parts of 
 the country. They render easily and quickly accessible the most 
 beautiful scenery, the most interesting antiquities and :ill those 
 fields of agricultural industry — the tea, the cocoanuts and the 
 rubber, which have brought about the advanced state of pros- 
 perity which the (-olony enjoys. No other country in the world 
 can take vou in such spacious and comfortable coaches, on a 
 track of live feet six inches gauge, o\er mountains at an 
 altitude of more than six thousancl feet. ^'ct such facilities 
 arc; proxidcd in C'cyloii. 
 
 1 shall now jirocecd to describe and to illustrate the w liole 
 of the CcNlon Government Railways and the districts which 
 they ser\c '\'hv flescription will not be limited to the various 
 towns and \illag(s which gi\c their names to the railway 
 stations, but will be extended to all parts of the country which 
 the traveller will be likely to visit by using the railway for the 
 whole or part of his journey. The i)laccs are taken in order ol 
 stations, so that the traveller who possesses this book may 
 read of each place or district as he i)asses through it. It will, 
 however, be iisi'ful first to take a glance at the following 
 general description of the various lines and the rules and 
 regulations which have been made for the comlort and con- 
 \ cniciirc of pass(iii4< 1 s. The traxcller who will take the trouble 
 to do this will liiul himself ainplx re|)aid by the xarious facilities 
 of which he nia\ a\ail liinis:-lf hnl of the existence of which he 
 niii^hl ollieiwise be ii^norant. 
 
 0.^
 
 94 
 
 Till': lU)OK OF CEYLON 
 
 The 
 Railways 
 
 .1/(1 ni line 
 
 Coast line 
 
 Xorthci-n 
 Hue 
 
 Matale 
 branch 
 
 The Ceylon (jovcrnmcnl Railways are State owned as their 
 name implies, and are under the control ol' the Ceylon Clovcrn- 
 ment. The total mileaijc is ^t)2 miles, of which 495 are on 
 the broad .^auii^e (5'j feetj and i)j on the narrow i,^'iu^e 
 (21^ feet). 
 
 The sections of the broad ijauj^c' line are the Main, Coast, 
 Northern and Matale lines. The narrow gauge are the Kelani 
 Valley and the Udapussellawa lines. 
 
 The Main Line runs from Colombo in a ncjrth-easterly 
 direction for about forty-five miles, when alter Polgahawela 
 has been reached it gradually returns until, at the terminus of 
 Bandarawela (16334^ miles), it is at the same latitude as 
 Colombo. This line is by far the busiest and most profitable 
 of the railways, due to the fact that it serves the great tea 
 districts of the mountain zone. It was the first section of the 
 railways to be constructed, and in its later stages, after the 
 foot-hills were reached at Rambukkana (fifty-two miles from 
 Colombo), will be found the chief engineering triumphs of the 
 line. From Rambukkana the line rises 1,400 feet in the 
 thirteen miles to Kadugannawa with a ruling gradient of i in 
 45 and curves of 10 chains (220 yards) radius. The " ghat 
 or hill-section may be said to begin at Nawalapitiya, the prin- 
 cipal railway centre of the hill districts, eighty-seven miles 
 from Colombo, and 1,913 feet above sea level. From this 
 point the line rises almost continually with a maximum gradient 
 of I in 44 and minimum curves of 5 chains (no yards) radius 
 until it reaches a height of 6,225 feet at Pattipola, 139 miles 
 from Colombo. From this point, after passing through the 
 summit-level tunnel, the line falls by similar gradients and 
 curves to Bandarawela, its present terminus. 
 
 The Coast Line follows the west coast in a southerly 
 direction to Galle (71^ miles) and thence, still along the coast, 
 in an easterly direction, to its terminus at Matara (98^2 miles 
 from Colombo). 
 
 The Northern Line, the section of the railways most 
 recently completed, extends from its junction with the main 
 line at Polgahawela (45^2 miles from Colombo) to Kangesan- 
 turai in the extreme north of the island ; its distance from 
 Polgahawela being 211 ^4 miles. 
 
 The IVLxTALE Branch extends northwards for 21 miles from 
 Peradeniva junction (70^2 miles from Colombo on the main 
 line) to Matale, which was the starting point for the long 
 coach journev to the north prior to the construction of the 
 northern line, and is still the point whence the Trincomale 
 coach service starts. Ivandy is situated on this branch, 74^2 
 miles from Colombo and nearly four miles from Peradeniya 
 junction.
 
 -y^^. 
 
 144. FIRST CLASS COMPARTIVIENT. 
 
 145. SLEEPING BERTHS
 
 146. BUILDING RAILWAY COACHES IN COLOIVIBO. 
 
 147. REFRESHMENT CAR.
 
 THE HOOK OF (.•I•:^■LOX 
 
 97 
 
 The Railwoys 
 
 I'atlty line 
 
 i'llapuisetlawa 
 
 line 
 
 The Kklaxi X'allev Lim-: runs eastward from Colombo Inr 
 48^ miles and serves the tea planting district from which it 
 takes its name. 
 
 The Ud.\I'L'Ssi:i.i..\\\ A Link runs from .\anuo_\a (i2<S miles 
 from Colombo) to Ragalla, a distance of 19 miles, and upon 
 it is situated Nuwara Kli^a, the sanitarium of Ceylon, 6,200 
 feet above sea level and 6j/^_ miles from Nanu Ova. This 
 branch is very similar to the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway 
 of India, with a maximum gradient of i in 24 and minimum 
 curves of 80 feet radius. 
 
 The rolling stock of the railway is now constructed The rolling 
 locally in the workshops in Colombo, wher..' upwards of 1,000 ^'""^ 
 workmen are employed under the superintendence of skilled 
 European foremen. These shops are well equipped with pneu- 
 matic and other labour-saving machinery, whilst new tools are 
 being added year by year. The older type of four-wheeled carri- 
 ages were imported from I^^ngland and erected in the colony, 
 and there are still a good many of these on the line, but they 
 arc being steadily replaced by the standard type of bogie car- 
 riage forty-two feet long. These modern carriages, which are 
 constructed of teak, are not on the Indian type, with its 
 longitudinal seats, but on the English, and are furnished with 
 excellent lavatory accommodation. The outsides of the car- 
 riages are of varnished teak, whilst the interiors are of the 
 same wood, picked out with satinwood and adorned with photo- 
 graphs of interesting places on the line. The line is well 
 provided with sleeping and refreshment cars, the former 
 running on the up and down night mail trains between Colombo 
 and Xanu()\a (for Xuwara liliya), whilst the latter arc run on 
 the principal trains between Colombo, Kandy and up-country 
 stations. 
 
 Passengers to w horn time is an object, and who wish to sleeping cars 
 pa\- a living \isit to Xuwara Eliya, can leave Colombo after 
 dinner, tra\el in a comfortable sleeping berth for the nominal 
 sum of Rs. 2.50 (in addition to first-class fare), get an early 
 tea or breakfast in the refreshment car before arriving at 
 Nanuoya, and be in Nuwara Eliya before half-past eight next 
 morning. In the opposite direction they can also make the 
 night journcN- down between dinner one evening and breakfast 
 the nc^xt morning, early tea being served l)v the attendant in 
 the sleeping car. 
 
 The catering for the refreshment car is in the hands of a 
 private company, and meals can be obtained along the road in 
 eomfort and at moderate prices, without the incomenience and 
 loss of time in\-ol\cd by the Indian system of " refreshment 
 stops. " 
 
 Oil the Xortlieni line, w heie the trallic is too light for the 
 II 
 
 a'ering
 
 98 
 
 'JIIH HOOK OF CI<n'LON 
 
 The Railways runniiii^ of a refreshment car, the throui^^h trains halt at Anu- 
 radhapura a sulTieient leng-th of time to enable passcni^ers to 
 ()l)taiii a satisfactory mid-day meal. 
 
 In addition to the refreshment cars, the car cfjmpan}- pro- 
 vide breakfast, tiflin and dinner baskets on application, either 
 from their depot in Colombo or from the refreshment cars. 
 
 There are three classes on the railways as in l-lngland, and 
 the fares charged are exceedingly moderate. 
 
 On all parts of the line, except the Hill section above 
 Nawalapitiya, the standard single fare per mile is as follows, 
 viz. first-class, 8 cents ; second-class, 5 j^^ cents ; third-class, 
 2^1 cents; and return tickets at a fare and a half are issued 
 for all classes. 
 
 Taking 6 cents as equalling one penny, the rate per mile 
 for a hrst-class return ticket in the lower sections is one penny 
 or the equivalent of the third-class fare in England. 
 
 Colombo time is observed throughout the rail\\a\' svstem. 
 
 Luggage 
 
 Packages in 
 carriages 
 
 Resjyonsibility 
 of railway 
 for loss of or 
 damage to 
 I'lggage 
 
 The following is the free allowance of luggage per adult passenger, 
 viz. : — First class, 112 lbs.; second class, 84 lbs.; third class, 56 lbs. 
 
 For children with half tickets, half the above is allowed free. 
 
 Children travelling free are not allowed any free quantity of luggage. 
 
 Excess luggage is charged for at full parcels rates, which should be 
 prepaid at the starting station, but if not charged for there, the excess 
 may be collected at the end of the journey or at any intermediate point. 
 A receipt should be obtained for all excess charges. 
 
 Luggage in bulk can be forwarded at goods rates, which are obtainable 
 on application to any stationmaster. 
 
 Passengers are advised to be at the starting station in good time in 
 order to admit of their luggage being weighed, labelled, and loaded in 
 the train before starting time. 
 
 The luggage must be well secured and properly addressed with the 
 owner's name and destination, in addition to the railway destination label, 
 VNfhich passengers should personally see affixed to the packages. It is 
 necessary for passengers to obtain and produce their tickets before their 
 luggage can be labelled. Where numbered luggage receipts are issued, 
 it is necessary that these should be produced on arrival at destination, 
 before the luggage can be delivered up. 
 
 Care should be taken to remove all old labels from luggage, especially 
 those for previous journeys on the C.G.R. 
 
 Passengers should be careful to comply with these regulations, failing 
 which the railway will not be responsible for any loss or miscarriage. 
 
 Passengers may take into the carriages (at their own risk and in their 
 own charge) only such small packages as can be placed under the seat 
 occupied by the owner, or on the hat-racks (where provided). Articles 
 may not be placed in the gangways of carriages or entrances to lavatories. 
 
 Passengers are earnestly requested to adhere to this rule, so as to 
 prevent discomfort not only to themselves, but to their fellow passengers. 
 
 The railwa}^ will not be responsible for any loss of or damage to the 
 following articles if conveyed as luggage, viz. : — Musical instruments, 
 plate, bullion, money bills, deeds, notes or securities, precious stones, 
 jewellery, trinkets, watches, clocks, china, glass, or other frail or fragile 
 articles. Such articles will only be conveyed as parcels, and they must 
 be insured as shown below.
 
 143. RAILWAY CLERKS, COLOMBO. 
 
 14Q. ENGINE FITTING SHOP, COLOMBO.
 
 150 BUILDING RAILWAY COACHES IN COLOMBO. 
 
 151. RAILWAY SAWING MILLS IN COLOMBO.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 
 
 The liability of the railway for loss of or damage to passengers' 
 luggage conveyed free is limited to Rs. 150 for first-class passengers, 
 lis. loo for second-class passengers, and Rs. 50 for third-class passengers, 
 unless the value is declared and an insurance charge of i per cent, on 
 the excess value is paid before the luggage is deposited. 
 
 Should passengers wish to leave their luggage at any station, thej' can 
 do so on paying the cloak-room fee of 10 cents per article for two days, 
 and 5 cents per article for every additional day or part of a day. A 
 receipt must be obtained, which must be produced before the articles can 
 be given up again. Railway servants are strictly forbidden to take charge 
 of any article belonging to passengers unless it is deposited in the cloak- 
 room and a receipt obtained for it, as stated above. 
 
 Any property of passengers found in the carriages, at the stations, or 
 on the line, will be removed to the nearest station for twenty-four hours, 
 after which it will be forwarded to the lost-property office in Colombo, 
 and if ntjt claimed within three months it will be sold. 
 
 Should any passenger lose any article he should inform the guard of 
 the train and the nearest stationmaster, and also report the loss as soon 
 as possible to the traffic superintendent in Colombo, in order that imm<- 
 diate steps may be taken to trace the missing property. 
 
 In cases where passengers are responsible for the loss of any article, 
 a small fee will be charged and satisfactory evidence of ownership 
 demanded before the article is delivered up. 
 
 Passengers who wish to secure the exclusive use of a compartment or 
 carriage can do so on payment of the following charges, viz. : — First class, 
 two-thirds of the seating capacity of the carriage or compartment re- 
 served ; second class, three-quarters ; third class, four-fifths. 
 
 To reserve a full compartment in the sleeping car, a first-class ticket 
 and sleeping-car ticket must be taken for each berth in the compartment. 
 
 Accommodation for invalids and through carriages can be arranged on 
 application to the general manager, Colombo. 
 
 Compartments for the use of ladies and young children only will be 
 provided without extra charge on the through trains on notice being given 
 on the previous day to the stationmaster at the station for which the 
 compartment is required. 
 
 The sleeping-cars which run on the up and down night mail trains 
 between Colombo and Nanuoya are provided with accommodation for 
 twelve passengers, namely, two four-berth and two two-berth compart- 
 , ments, and lavatory accommodation, l^ach berth is numbered and pro- 
 vided with pillows, sheets, blanket and quilt, and an attendant accom- 
 panies each car. 
 
 The charge for each berth in the sleeping-car is Rs. 2.50 in addition 
 to the ordinary first-class fare for the distance to be travelled. A sleeping- 
 car ticket must be purchased for each berth before the car is entered, and 
 it must be delivered to the car attendant. 
 
 Children under twelve years of age accompanying adults may occupy 
 sleeping berths on payment of half ordinary first-class fare plus full cost 
 of a sleeping-car ticket, and two or more children may occupy the same 
 berth with one sleeping-car ticket. 
 
 Application for berths must be made not later than 6.30 p.m. at any 
 station on the line, but payment will not be accepted nor accommodation 
 prf)vided until it has been ascertained that berths are available. 
 
 One two-berth comi^artment in each saloon, with lavatory adjoining, 
 is reserved for ladies, but if this compartment is not booked by 6.30 p.m. 
 it will be available for married couples, and if disengaged at the time the 
 train is due to start it will be given to gentlemen passengers. 
 
 Only ladies travelling alone are allowed to occupy this ladies' compart- 
 ment. 
 
 The kailuavs 
 
 Left luggage 
 
 Lost luggage 
 
 Reserved 
 accommodation 
 
 Invalid 
 
 accommodation 
 and through 
 carriages 
 
 Compartments 
 for ladies 
 
 Sleeping cars
 
 Till-: iu)()K oi- ci:\LO\ 
 
 The Railways 
 
 Rcjreshmcnt 
 cars 
 
 Refreshment 
 rooms 
 
 Special trains 
 
 Tickets 
 
 The otlicr twu bcrtli compartment (which is provided with jug, basin, 
 iSc.) is suitaljlc fur married couples, but it is not reserved for this purpose, 
 and is given to the first ap])licants. The berths in it are numbr-red 3 and 
 4. Ayahs are only allowed in the sleeping-car when the full compart- 
 ment is paid for. 
 
 Tho refreshment cars are first-class carriages, and second-class passen- 
 gers are only allowed to enter them for the purpose of obtaining refresh- 
 ments, nor may they remain in the cars for more than one of the advertised 
 stages. 
 
 Dogs and luggage may not be taken into refreshment cars under any 
 circumstances. 
 
 Smoking is only permitted when passengers are not taking meals, and 
 then only with the consent of all other passengers in the car. 
 
 Refreshment rooms exist at Polgahawela, Hatton, and Nanuoya on 
 the Main line, Alutgama on the ("cast line, Anuradhapura and Vavuniya 
 on the Northern line. 
 
 Refreshments at these places are provided at moderate prices. The 
 guard of the through Northern line trains will wire free of charge for 
 the provision of midday meals at Anuradhapura. 
 
 Passengers from the Bandarawela line by the down night mail can 
 have dinner ordered at Nanuoya by wire free of charge on application to 
 the guard. 
 
 A special train can be provided from Colombo to Kandy and back on 
 payment of a minimum charge of 50 first-class return fares (Rs. 9 is the 
 first-class return fare) on application to the general manager, Colombo. 
 Steamer passengers who have sufficient time for a journey to Kandy 
 during the stay of their boat in Colombo can arrange for a special through 
 the steamer agents. The run takes a little over three hours each way. 
 
 For other special trains the charge is Rs. 4 per mile for a single, and 
 Rs. 6 per mile for a return journey, plus fares and luggage at ordinary 
 rates for the passengers and luggage conveyed. The mileage will be 
 calculated from the nearest station from which an engine can be supplied ; 
 and the minimum charge for running a special is Rs. 50. 
 
 Applications for specials should be made to the general manager not 
 less than twenty-four hours before the special is required, and no 
 guarantee can be given that it will be provided. 
 
 The booking offices will be open for the issue of tickets half an hour 
 before the advertised time for the departure of trains, and may be closed 
 five minutes before the departure time. 
 
 In order to prevent inconvenience and delay, passengers are requested 
 to provide themselves with suitable change, as the booking clerks may not 
 at all times be able to give change. Passengers should also examine their 
 tickets and change before leaving the booking counter, as errors cannot 
 afterwards be rectified. 
 
 The English sovereign and half-sovereign are accepted at all booking 
 offices, their equivalents being Rs. 15 and Rs. 7.50. 
 
 Tickets are not transferable, and must be produced or delivered up 
 whenever demanded by the railway servants. 
 
 Single journey tickets are only available on the day of issue, or by 
 a through train starting on the day of issue. 
 
 First- and second-class return "tickets for distances of 30 miles and 
 under are available for return within three days, inclusive of day of issue 
 and day of return [i.e., a ticket issued on Monday is available for return 
 on Wednesdav) ; for distances over 30 miles within 17 days, inclusive of 
 day of issue and day of return ; third-class return tickets for distances 
 30 miles and under are available for return on day of issue only, excepting 
 tickets issued on Saturday or Sunday, which are available for return on 
 Monday ; for distances over 30 and not exceeding 50 miles, within three
 
 THh WHEEL SHOPS. 
 
 1o3. THE WHEEL VARD.
 
 154. THE FOUNDRY. 
 
 155. SALOON COACH.
 
 thp: rook of ckvlox 
 
 105 
 
 days inclusive of day of issue and day of return ; over 50 miles, seven 
 days, inclusive of day of issue and day of return. 
 
 For the convenience of tourists, Messrs. Thos. Cook & Sons have 
 authority to is.sue coupons over the (".C"..R. These are subject to the 
 same conditions as ordinary tickets. 
 
 Passengers desirous of travelling beyond the station to which they have 
 booked must, before passing that station, hand their tickets to the guard, 
 who will see to the collection of the excess fare at the proper point, but 
 under no circumstances can the advantage of a return ticket be obtained 
 by payment of excess fare. Passengers cannot be rebr)oked at roadside 
 stations to proceed by the train in which they have arrived. 
 
 Holders of first- and second-class return tickets between stations over 
 60 miles apart are allowed to break journey at any intermediate station 
 once on the outward and once on the homeward route, provided they do 
 not travel more than once in each direction over the same section of line, 
 and that the return journey is completed within the time for which the 
 returi: ticket is available. When a passenger breaks journey at a station 
 he must hand his ticket to the stationmaster to be endorsed to that effect. 
 
 Holders of first- and second-class return tickets between stations 60 
 miles apart of which Peradeniya Junction is an intermediate station, may 
 travel on to Kandy and break journey there without paying excess fare 
 between Peradeniya Junction and Kandy in either direction. In this case 
 the tickets must be endorsed by the stationmaster at Kandy. 
 
 Holders of first- and second-class return tickets between Matale line 
 stations and stations beyond Kandy, but less than 60 miles apart, are 
 allowed to break jcurney at Kandy provided they resume their journey 
 the same day. Such tickets must be endorsed by the stationmaster at 
 Kandy before the passengers leave the station premises. 
 
 Children under three years of age will be conveyed free. Children of 
 that age and under 12 years will be charged half fare. 
 
 One female servant only will be allowed to accompany her mistress in 
 a first-class carriage (whether in charge of children or not) on payment 
 of second-class fare, provided such an arrangement does not interfere 
 with the comfort of other passengers travelling in the same compartment. 
 
 Nurses in charge of children, when not accompanying their mistresses, 
 must pay the fare of the class in which they travel. 
 
 Should a passenger, from an unavoidable cause, be unable to obtain 
 a ticket bef(jre starting, he must as soon as possible rejjort the fact to the 
 guard, and jiay his fare at the destination station, or earlier if demanded. 
 A passenger travelling without a ticket, or with a ticket so torn or 
 mutilated that the date, number of station from or to, cannot be de- 
 ci])hered, is liable to be charged from the station from which the train 
 originally started, unless he can prove satisfactorily that he entered the 
 train at some intermediate station. 
 
 Passengers who are called upon to pay excess fares should demand and 
 obtain a receipt for the amount paid. 
 
 I'assengers who are unable to use the homeward halves of ordinary 
 return tickets within the specified time can have them extended on appli- 
 cation at the station from which they arc returning, and on payment of 
 the necessary extra sum. 
 
 Special terms are granted to pleasure parties consisting of not less 
 than 10 persons travelling by ordinary trains between stations not less 
 than 25 miles apart, and also to oth<'r special ])arties. Full particulars 
 of the charges and regulations can be obtained on application to the 
 general manager, Colombo. 
 
 The travelling public are allowed to despatch telegrams through the 
 railway telegraph department at the " urgent " rates of the Post Oflice 
 telegraph department, provided they are l>o>id fide frcjm a passenger or to 
 
 The kuiluavs 
 
 Break of 
 journey 
 
 Children 
 
 Female servants 
 and nurses 
 
 i laitiitni; 
 without ticket 
 
 Excess farts 
 
 Extension of 
 tickets 
 
 Sf'cciii! to ins 
 to f\a>ties of 
 tiaiellers 
 
 Telegrams
 
 I of) 
 
 rill'; liooK oi- ci':\'L()N 
 
 The Railways a passenger travelling by train. The urgent rates are as follows : — First 
 eight words or group of three figures, -^ cents; each additional word f>r 
 group of three figures, lo cents. 
 
 The free address includes the names of the officc-s from and to which 
 the t(>legram is to be despatched, the name of the sender, and name and 
 address of the addressee. 
 
 No charge will be made for the delivery of telegrams addressed to 
 hotels and resthouses within a cjuarter of a mile of a station, or for those 
 addressed to the railway refreshment cars, refreshment rooms at stations, 
 and the refreshment car office at Colombo. Upon all other telegrams a 
 charge of ^o cents for delivery within five miles of a station must be 
 prepaid. 
 
 Though every effort will be made to ensure quick despatch and correct 
 delivery, the railway will not be responsible for delay or non-delivery. 
 
 Any person requiring to send a telegram relative to parcels, luggage, 
 &c., such as requests for re-addressing, &c., will be charged 50 cents for 
 such telegram, and a further sum of 25 cents if a reply is required. 
 Should it be found that the telegram was necessitated by the fault of any 
 member of the railway staff, the amount paid will be refunded. 
 
 Passengers who may have left articles on the station premises or in 
 the carriage in which they have travelled, and who wish inquiries made 
 by wire, will be required to pay 25 cents for telegram of inquiry and 25 
 cents for reply. If, however, the articles lost were booked and placed on 
 the van, inquiry will be made by wire without charge. 
 
 Only safety breech-loading cartridges may be despatched by passenger 
 train, and they are charged for at ordinary prepaid parcels rates, pro- 
 vided they are packed in a box, barrel, or case of wood, metal, or other 
 solid material of such strength that it will not become defective or un- 
 secured whilst being conveyed. 
 
 The rates and regulations for the conveyance of horses, carriages, 
 motor vehicles, parcels, and petrol by passenger train, may be obtained on 
 application to any slationmaster. 
 
 Small animals, such as cats, puppies, mongooses, monkeys, mousedeer, 
 ike, and poultry and other kinds are only carried in strongly-made square 
 crates or hampers, and they are charged for by weight at parcels rates. 
 
 Dogs in crates, cases, or hampers will be charged for by weight at 
 parcels rates : when in dog-locker, 25 cents each for every 25 miles or part 
 of 25 miles. 
 
 Dogs for conveyance in the dog-locker must be provided with chain 
 and leather or metal collar in good order, unless a letter of indemnity 
 is furnished. 
 
 No person is allowed to take a dog into a passenger carriage except 
 with the consent of the stationmaster at the starting station and the con- 
 currence of his fellow-passengers, and then only on prepayment of double 
 rate for each dog. 
 
 The acceptance of a dog at the double rate for carriage with the owner 
 is subject to the condition that it shall be removed if subsequently objected 
 to, no refund being given. 
 
 The railway will not be responsible for the loss of or injury to any dog 
 which may escape either in consequence of its becoming unmanageable, 
 slipping its collar, or by the breakage of the chain or collar by which it 
 is secured. 
 Bicycles Bicycles (not packed), other than motor bicycles, when sent as parcels 
 
 or carried as passenger luggage, will be conveyed at owner's risk at i 
 cent per mile over the Main, Coast, and branch lines below Nawalapitiya, 
 and 2 cents per mile over the Main line and branches above Nawalapitiya. 
 Minimum charge, n, cents. 
 
 The railway will not undertake to convey the following articles as 
 
 A mmunition 
 
 Horses, car- 
 riages, motor 
 vehicles, parcels, 
 and petrol 
 Small animals 
 and poultry 
 
 Dogs
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 
 
 parcels, viz. : — Gunpowder, firpworks, vitriol, aquafortis, turpentine, 
 matches, mineral oils or acids, or any other combustibles or dangerous 
 materials. Any person contravening this regulation will be liable to 
 prosecution under the Railway Ordinances. 
 
 The charge for insurance of articles conveyed by passenger train 
 (which must be prepaid) is i per cent, on the value (minimum charge, R. i), 
 to be declared in writing at the time of booking. 
 
 Statiop.masters are authorised to accept insurance rate on packages 
 valued at less than Rs. 500. For articles valued at or above that sum, 
 application for insurance is to be made to the general manager, Colombo. 
 
 Cheques or other orders for payment of money are not accepted unless 
 authorised by the general manager. 
 
 Information regarding the conveyance of articles at goods rates may 
 be obtained on application to any stationmaster or to the general manager, 
 traffic superintendent, or goods agent, Colombo. 
 
 The railway will not be responsible for information given by others 
 than the principal officers in charge of the different stations, of whom 
 inquiries should always be made, or of the general manager, traffic super- 
 intendent, or district superintendents. 
 
 Passengers aie requested to report direct to the general manager, 
 traffic superintendent, or district superintendent any instance of incivility, 
 want of attention or misconduct on the part of persons employed on the 
 railway. Complaints should embody the name and address of the 
 complainant. 
 
 Railway servants are forbidden to ask for or receive from the public 
 any fee or gratuity. 
 
 The Railways 
 
 ComiuitibU 
 and dangerous 
 arlicUi 
 
 Insurance 
 
 Cheques, etc. 
 Goods 
 
 Inquities 
 
 Incivility 
 
 Gratuities 
 
 LIST OF STATIONS OX THE CEYLOX 
 GOVERXMEXT RAILWAY . 
 
 MAIN LINE (Bro.ad GAfGE). 
 
 
 
 Mileage 
 
 from 
 Colomlio. 
 
 Height 
 
 Above Sea 
 
 Level. 
 
 
 
 Mileage 
 
 from 
 Colombo. 
 
 Height 
 
 .4 hove Sea 
 
 Leiel. 
 
 
 
 m. 
 
 c. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 
 
 m. 
 
 c. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Colombo (terminus) 
 
 
 
 
 Gampola 
 
 
 78 
 
 25 
 
 1572 
 
 Colombo (Maradana 
 
 
 
 
 riapanc 
 
 
 82 
 
 75 
 
 1846 
 
 Junction for 
 
 Coast 
 
 
 
 
 Nawalapitiya 
 
 
 87 
 
 29 
 
 1013 
 
 and Kclani 
 
 Valley 
 
 
 
 
 Galboda 
 
 
 94 
 
 38 
 
 25S1 
 
 Lines) . 
 
 
 
 
 7.7 
 
 ir, 
 
 Watawala . 
 
 
 100 
 
 13 
 
 3259 
 
 Kclaniya 
 
 
 3 
 
 40 
 
 14 
 
 Rozrllc 
 
 
 103 
 
 63 
 
 3742 
 
 Hunupitlya 
 
 
 5 
 
 42 
 
 II 
 
 llatton 
 
 
 108 
 
 16 
 
 4M» 
 
 Ragama 
 
 
 9 
 
 00 
 
 13 
 
 Kolagala . 
 
 
 I II 
 
 35 
 
 4065 
 
 HonaratRoda 
 
 
 16 
 
 50 
 
 36 
 
 Talawakcle 
 
 
 115 
 
 f'5 
 
 3932 
 
 V'cyanRoda 
 
 
 2Z 
 
 54 
 
 61 
 
 Watagoda . 
 
 
 i;o 
 
 
 
 4400 
 
 Mirinama . 
 
 
 30 
 
 54 
 
 ir,4 
 
 Nanuoya (Junction 
 
 for 
 
 
 
 
 Ambopussa 
 
 
 34 
 
 45 
 
 182 
 
 Nuwara Eliya 
 
 and 
 
 
 
 
 Allawa 
 
 
 40 
 
 24 
 
 100 
 
 Uda Pussellawa 
 
 
 
 
 I'olRaliawcIa (Junction 
 
 
 
 
 Lines) . 
 
 
 128 
 
 f. 
 
 .S20I 
 
 for Nortliirn 
 
 Line) 
 
 45 
 
 34 
 
 244 
 
 Ambawela . 
 
 
 137 
 
 8 
 
 6064 
 
 Rambukkana 
 
 
 .S2 
 
 II 
 
 200 
 
 Patti|X5la . 
 
 
 '39 
 
 6 
 
 6224 
 
 Kaducannawa 
 
 
 f>5 
 
 00 
 
 ifiiJO 
 
 Oliiya 
 
 
 143 
 
 33 
 
 5902 
 
 Pcradoniya (Junction 
 
 
 
 
 Haputale . 
 
 
 153 
 
 43 
 
 4765 
 
 for Kandy 
 
 and 
 
 
 
 
 Diyatalawa. 
 
 
 156 
 
 76 
 
 4367 
 
 Matalc Line) 
 
 
 70 
 
 46 
 
 1553 
 
 Bandarawila 
 
 
 160 
 
 58 
 
 4036
 
 loS 
 
 IIIl': IU)()K ()1- CI-INLOX 
 
 The Railways MATALE LINE (Bkoad Gaucie). COAST LINE (Buoad Gauge) 
 
 Mileage Height 
 from Above Sea 
 Peradcniya Level. 
 Junction. 
 
 
 in. 
 
 C. 
 
 Foot. 
 
 Peradcniya (New) 
 
 
 40 
 
 1572 
 
 Kandy 
 
 3 
 
 70 
 
 1602 
 
 Mahaiyawa 
 
 4 
 
 71 
 
 1726 
 
 Katugastota 
 
 . 7 
 
 25 
 
 1534 
 
 Wattcgama 
 
 . II 
 
 33 
 
 1620 
 
 Ukuwda 
 
 • 17 
 
 52 
 
 I2fJ2 
 
 Matale 
 
 . 21 
 
 9 
 
 1208 
 
 UDAPUSSELLAWA LINE 
 
 (Narrow Gauge). 
 
 
 Mileage 
 
 Height 
 
 
 from 
 
 Above Sea 
 
 
 Nanuoya 
 
 Level. 
 
 
 Junclion. 
 
 
 
 m. c. 
 
 Fcft. 
 
 Nuwara Eliya 
 
 . 6 45 
 
 6198 
 
 Kandapola 
 
 . 12 33 
 
 6316 
 
 Brookside . 
 
 . 16 45 
 
 4981 
 
 Ragalla 
 
 . 19 17 
 
 5818 
 
 NORTHERN LINE (Broad 
 Gauge). 
 
 Mileage ] 
 from 
 Polgahawcla 
 Junction. 
 
 Potuhera 
 Kurunogala 
 VVcUawa 
 Gancwatta . 
 Maho 
 
 Ambanpola . 
 Galgamuwa 
 Talawa 
 Anuradhapura 
 Madawachchi 
 Vavuniya . 
 Mankulam . 
 Paranthan . 
 Elephant Pass (h 
 Pallai. 
 Kodikamam 
 Chavakachcheri 
 Navatkuli . 
 J affna 
 Chunakam . 
 Kankesanturai 
 
 place 
 
 53 
 
 m. 
 
 7 
 
 13 15 
 
 19 18 
 
 26 39 
 
 40 3 
 
 47 21 
 
 53 40 
 
 ''I 75 
 
 81 21 
 
 97 31 
 
 III 77 
 
 140 21 
 
 163 6 
 
 ) 169 41 
 
 176 54 
 
 185 77 
 
 190 41 
 
 195 71 
 
 200 24 
 
 206 14 
 
 211 18 
 
 Pet tall 
 
 Fort . 
 
 Slave Island 
 
 KoUupitiya. 
 
 Bambalapitlya 
 
 Wellawatta. 
 
 Dehiwala . 
 
 Mount Lavinia 
 
 Angulana . 
 
 Lnnawa 
 
 Moratuwa . 
 
 Panadure . 
 
 W'adduw.a . 
 
 Kalutara, Xortli 
 
 Kalutara, Soiilli 
 
 Katukurunda 
 
 Paiyagala, North 
 
 Paiyagala, South 
 
 Maggona 
 
 Beruwala . 
 
 .4Iutgama (for Bentot: 
 
 Induruwa . 
 
 Kosgoda 
 
 Balapitiya . 
 
 Ainbalangoda 
 
 Hikkaduwa 
 
 Dodanduwa 
 
 Gintota 
 
 Galle . 
 
 Taipe 
 
 Ahangama 
 
 W'eligama . 
 
 Kamburugamuwa 
 
 Matara 
 
 KELANI VALLEY LINE 
 
 (Narrow Gauge) 
 
 Mileage 
 
 from 
 
 Colombo 
 
 (Maradana 
 
 Junction). 
 
 m 
 
 c. 
 
 I 
 
 6 
 
 I 
 
 45 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 3 
 
 25 
 
 4 
 
 45 
 
 5 
 
 70 
 
 7 
 
 44 
 
 8 
 
 20 
 
 II 
 
 22 
 
 12 
 
 5 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 17 
 
 51 
 
 21 
 
 37 
 
 26 
 
 6 
 
 27 
 
 28 
 
 29 
 
 8 
 
 31 
 
 16 
 
 31 
 
 75 
 
 33 
 
 10 
 
 35 
 
 7 
 
 38 
 
 28 
 
 41 
 
 54 
 
 45 
 
 29 
 
 49 
 
 63 
 
 52 
 
 62 
 
 60 
 
 14 
 
 64 
 
 13 
 
 68 
 
 28 
 
 71 
 
 68 
 
 78 
 
 23 
 
 84 
 
 24 
 
 89 
 
 58 
 
 95 
 
 4 
 
 98 
 
 36 
 
 Cotta Road 
 Xugcgoda . 
 Pannipitiya 
 Homagama . 
 Padukka 
 Waga. 
 Kosgama 
 Puwakpitiya 
 Avisawella . 
 Dchiowita . 
 Karawanella 
 Vatiantota 
 
 Mileage 
 
 from 
 
 Colombo 
 
 (Maradana 
 
 Junction). 
 
 m. c. 
 
 52 
 49 
 23 
 74 
 48 
 57 
 43 
 66 
 50 
 40 
 60
 
 CEYLON 
 
 GOVERNMENT RAILWAY.
 
 TFIF. r.OOK OF CEVLOX 
 
 109 
 
 i _ǥ'ȣ 
 
 156. CROSSING THE RIVER AT BENTOTA. 
 
 THE COAST LTX1<: ITIXERARY. 
 
 The seaside railway from Colombo to Matara affords every 
 facility for visiting- the villages and towns of the south coast, 
 where Sinhalese life pure and simple can be seen to greater 
 advantage than anywhere else in Ceylon. Here is to be found 
 the purely Sinhalese section of the inhabitants of the island, 
 a circumstance due to the fact that the lowlands of the south 
 were not invaded by the Malabars, who in early times con- 
 quered and held possession of the northern provinces for long 
 periods, with the result of a considerable commixture of the 
 Aryan and Dravidian races. 
 
 The line begins at Maradana junction in the heart of 
 Colombo, and the next four stations are also in Colombo, after 
 which follow four iiioic which may i)e called suburban. I'pon 
 lea\iiig Maradana juik lion the line follows the ijanUs of the lake 
 for the first two miles, w li< n it passes under the Kolupitiya 
 Road to the coast. At the end of the first mile we reach 
 
 rill, Pr.TTAH (im. 6c.*). — This station serves the most densely 
 populated portion of Colombo where the native trader chiefly 
 dwells. It has the largest passenger business of the coast 
 line. \ description of the locality which it serves has already 
 been given in our account of Colombo. The next station is 
 that of 
 
 ♦ 1 ho distances of all stations from tho Mar.uLina Station at Coloiiil>o are indi- 
 cated in miles and chains ; there being 80 chains in a mile.
 
 TIIK ROOK OF CFVLON 
 
 Coast Line YiiE FoRT (ini. 45c.). — FVom llie platform of this station 
 
 The Fort which \vc illustrate by our plate 157 there is a remarkably 
 
 beautiful prospect. The lengthy and commodious platform 
 forms a terrace before which stretches an enchanting;- fresh- 
 water lake fringed with palms and plantains and covering- 
 several hundred acres ; groups of bronze-tinted fig-urcs are 
 wading- waist-deep near its banks; some are occupied in fishing-, 
 others are enjoy ingf a swim ; and a yet greater number are 
 engaged near the bank in the destructive, albeit cleansing, 
 pursuits of the dhob}-. During the north-cast monsoon from 
 October to May the distant mountain rang^es, centred by 
 Adam's Peak, are frequently outlined against the sky, forming- 
 the backg-round of a scene that always im.presses the visitor. 
 This station is largely used by the clerks of the European 
 mercantile firms and the g-overnment offices in the Fort who 
 live in the suburbs and in the more distant towns and villag-es 
 to the south of Colombo. It is also a most convenient starting- 
 point for passeng-ers from the steamships and visitors at the 
 Grand Oriental and Bristol hotels, who take trips to Mount 
 Lavinia and the various places of interest farther south. 
 
 Slave Island Slave ISLAND (2m. 24c.). — Slave Island station is situated 
 
 near the southern end of Galle Face and is therefore most con- 
 venient for the visitors of Galle Face Hotel. Near it a narrow 
 channel joins that part of the lake which borders Galle Face 
 to the larg-er stretch which reaches from Slave Island to 
 Polwatte. The railway crosses the channel at the point illus- 
 trated by our plate 158, and from the bridg:e we g-et the 
 view in plate 159. It will be noticed that we are in pic- 
 turesque surroundings already, and this condition will con- 
 tinue for the whole ninety-eight miles of the line, increasing, if 
 possible, in beauty, and never absent. We now pass beneath 
 the Kollupitiya Road, and arrive upon the sea-beach just ]:)elow 
 the Galle Face Hotel. 
 
 Kollupitiya KoLLUPiTiVA (3m. 25c.). — Kollupitiya Station is situated 
 
 just where Green Path and Turret Road converge and reach 
 the main Galle Road ; and it is therefore most conveniently 
 placed for residents round and about the Victoria Park and 
 Cinnamon Gardens. It also serves the populous district of 
 KoUupitiva itself, which contains more bungalows of the better 
 class within a given space than any other portion of Colombo. 
 Many Europeans who prefer residences quite close to the sea 
 live here, as do a large number of the burgher and native com- 
 munities. The main road is somewhat squalid here and there 
 with bazaars and various detached boutiques, but always beau- 
 tiful by reason of the flora in which the squalor is embowered.
 
 l^p^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 I^^^^^^^^Bj ' ^ 
 
 SLAVE ISLAND BRIDGE. 
 
 159. FROM SLAVE ISLAND BRIOOE. 
 
 leO. THE COAST LINE AT WILLAWATTA
 
 161. ALFRED HOUSE, BAMBALAPITIYA. 
 
 AfaM -i^y^ 
 
 _ 
 
 
 ^j| 
 
 ^ 
 
 P-* 
 
 162. BAMBALAPITIYA. 
 
 163. WELLAWATTA.
 
 thp: book of ckvi.ox 113 
 
 Bambalai'ITIVA (4m. 45c.). — Banibalapiliya is a suburb of Coa.st Line 
 Colombo with characteristics somewhat similar to Kollupitiya, BamhaiupUiya 
 but less densely populated, and therefore more desirable as a 
 residential neis^hbourhood. Near the station are many exten- 
 sive and luxurious bung^alows, notably the residence of Lady 
 de wSoysa (Plate i()i), the widow of the late Mr. Charles de 
 Soysa, the g-reatest landowner in Ceylon, and one of its greatest 
 philanthropists. In this bungfalow Mr. de Soysa entertained 
 H.R.H. the Duke of Kdinburi,'^h at a g"reat banquet on the 
 occasion of His Royal Hig-hness's visit in 1870. Every visitor 
 is delighted with Bambalapitiya. The landscape varies little, 
 but is never wearisome ; the naturalist is enchanted by the 
 abundance of interesting^ objects at every turn ; while to the 
 enthusiastic botanist the hig^hway, densely bordered on either 
 side with an inexhaustible variety of leaf and blossom, is a 
 treasury unsurpassed in any other country. The brown 
 thatched huts, the g'roups of g"aily-clad natives, animals, birds 
 - all these add life to a scene that baffles description, (jarlands 
 of creepers festooned from tree to tree; hug^e banyans stretching' 
 in archways completely over the road, with the stems all over- 
 grown by ferns, orchids, and other parasitic plants ; here and 
 there a blaze of the flame-coloured g-loriosa, g^olden orchids, 
 various kinds of orang-e and lemon trees covered with frag^rant 
 blossoms, climbing- lilies, an underg^rowth of exquisite ferns of 
 infinite variety, all crowned by slender palms of ninety or a 
 hundred feet in height — all these defy description. 
 
 A tree will be noticed in our illustration (Plate iOj) with Cotton trees 
 lateral branches thrown out in groups of three, some feet apart, 
 and bearing a large crop of pods on otherwise bare branches. 
 This is the cotton tree, called by the Sinhalese Katu-Imbul. It 
 may be seen on this road in three stages : first, it becomes 
 loaded with crimson blossoms before any leaves appear ; then, 
 the leaves develop ; and afterwards it bears pods as seen in the 
 picture. When ripe, the cotton bursts from the pod, and where 
 the trees are uncultivated it strews the road ; but where culti- 
 vation is carried on, it is collected from the pods, and the fibre, 
 being too short for spinning, is used for various purpo.ses 
 locallv, and is also exported to some exUnt lor stulling 
 mattresses. 
 
 Havelock Town, a suburb that has recently sprung up and //.i:,/.-.* /cvn 
 possesses some very nice bungalows and a park of six acres, 
 is served by Bambalapitiya station. This neighbourhood has 
 recently gained much by the erection of the Church of St. 
 Paul (Plate 1(13). It is a centre of very enthusiastic- Church of 
 I-'ngland mission work, under the care and direction of the 
 Reverend J. C. Ford. 
 
 Visitors who have any fancy for seeing the spinning and 
 I
 
 114 
 
 THIC HOOK OI" CK^'LOX 
 
 Coast Line 
 
 VVellawatta 
 
 Dehiwala 
 
 Fishing indusfiy 
 
 \\(a\in^ of cotton by the Sinhak-sc should look in at the 
 Mills close to lla\cl()ck '{"own. Ik-rc there are 600 hands 
 employed in the manufacture of cloths of various kinds. It is 
 an interesting sig-ht, and as the trifling- fee of ten cents is 
 charj^cd at the g'ate, the visitor can look around with the com- 
 fortable feelings that he is not there by favour or sufferance. 
 
 Wei.lawatta (5m. 70c.). — Our illustration (Plate 165) will 
 fjive a good idea of the stations in the suburbs of Colombo. It 
 will be noticed that they border the sea very closely ; but it must 
 be borne in mind that there are no considerable tides to reckon 
 with, the sea rising- only to an extent almost imperceptible. 
 The roug-h seas of the south-west monsoon, however, have 
 not to be lost sig-ht of, as they sometimes treat these stations 
 more roughly than is good for them. 
 
 The scenery around W'ellawatta is notable for the prettv 
 landscapes observable from the railway bridges. Examples 
 are given in our plates 160 and i(\^. 
 
 Dehiwala (7m. 44c.). — Dehiwala, although in effect a 
 suburb of Colombo containing some excellent bungalows, in 
 reality retains its older character of a fishing village, and the 
 visitor will find it a convenient and attractive place in which to 
 observe some of the quaint operations of the fishing industry 
 and the remarkable fish themselves, with their curious shapes 
 and beautiful colours. The number of species caught amount 
 to no less than six hundred. Of those which are edible the 
 one most preferred is also the most plentiful — the Seer. In 
 size and shape this fish somewhat resembles the salmon, but its 
 flesh is white. In flavour it is by some thought to be superior 
 to salmon ; but however this may be, it is certain that few 
 people tire of Seer, although it is daily served at some meal 
 throughout the year. 
 
 Fish auctions take place each day upon the sands ; and very 
 interesting are they to the visitor, not only as a study of native 
 life, but as an exhibition of the strangest creatures brought 
 forth from the deep. Among the most curious are the saw- 
 fish. These are something like sharks in the body, but the 
 head has attached to it a huge flat blade, with sharp teeth pro- 
 jecting on either side. This frightful weapon in a full-grown 
 fish of some twelve or fourteen feet long extends to about 
 five feet in length. With it these monsters charge amongst 
 shoals of smaller fish, slaying them right and left and devour- 
 ing them at leisure. The saws are sold as curiosities and can 
 generally be obtained in Colombo. The red fire-fish, some- 
 times brought ashore, is of a remarkably brilliant hue. The 
 sword-fish, the walking-fish with curious arms and legs, by
 
 164. CHURCH OF ST. PAUL. MILAGRIYA. 
 
 165 WELLAWATTA STATION
 
 166. THE COAST FROM DEHIWALA TO MOUNT LAVINIA. 
 
 167. BUDDHIST TEMPLE AT DEHWALA.
 
 THK IU)OK Ol- CHVLOX 117 
 
 means of which it crawls alonj^ the bottom of the sea, the dog-- ^"^st i.ine 
 fish marked Hke a tiger, and various species of the ray arc 
 frequently caught. 
 
 Our plate i6() shows the coast from Dehiwala to Mount Dehiwaiu 
 Lavinia. Here sea turtles of great size are frequently captured. 
 When taken and turned over on to their backs their huge 
 flappers hurl great quantities of saiui into the faces of their 
 captors. 
 
 Another attractive feature of Dcliiwala is the Buddhist lunuthht 
 Temple. Although smaller than some others within a short ''"'•'■'^ 
 distance from Colombo it is most accessible and the pleasantest 
 to visit, owing to its being clean and well kept. The priests 
 are very obliging and readily afford any information asked of 
 them. Within are to be seen huge images of Buddha, Ijoth 
 sitting and reclining. Mural paintings, of the crudest 
 character, represent various legends, and especially set forth 
 the various forms of punishment in store for those who disobey 
 the Buddhist precepts. Before the images offerings of flowers 
 are heaped ; including lotus blossoms, temple flowers, and the 
 blossoms of the areca and cocoanut palms. Xo worshipper 
 comes empty-handed ; and the fragrant perfume is sometimes 
 almost overpowering. Near the Temple is a preaching-house, 
 the interior of which is carved and highly decorated. The 
 clever designs on the floor of the Temple, whicli the natives 
 have worked in mosaics from broken pieces of I'higlish pottery, 
 are particularly striking. 
 
 MorxT I.AVixiA (8m. 70c.). — This station takes its name Mount 
 from the handsome marine residence which Sir Edward Barnes '-'^'"i'' 
 built here when Governor of Ceylon in 1824. It stands upon a 
 rocky promontory washed by the waves on three sides and 
 commands the finest view of coast scenery near Colombo ; "an 
 edifice," wrote 'IVnncnt, "in every way worthy of the great 
 man by whom it was erected. But in one of those paroxysms 
 of economy which are sometimes not less successful than the 
 ambition of the Sultan in the fa]:)le, in providing haunts for 
 those birds that philosophise amidst ruins, the ediiice at Mount 
 Lavinia had scarcely been completed at an expense of ^,30,000 
 when it was ordered to be dismantled, and the building was 
 disposed of for less than the cost of the window frames." 
 This once vice-regal villa long since became the Mount Lavinia 
 (iiand Mold, and as such it has a woild-w idf reputation. It is 
 a favourite rendezvous of ocean passengers, but its greater use- 
 fulness is in the opportunities it presents to residents inland 
 who from time to time need a change to sea air. At Mount 
 Lavinia that desideratum is a\ailable under the pU-asanlest pos- 
 sible (H)nditioiis. The i-eci-catioiis of s('a-l)athing, lishing, tennis
 
 ii8 
 
 rni': iu)()k oi- ci-:vlox 
 
 Coast Line 
 
 Bathiiif; at 
 Mount I.avinia 
 
 Railway 
 facilities 
 
 Road 
 
 comcyancc 
 
 Local products 
 
 Mainifactures 
 
 Education 
 
 Sport 
 
 ;m(l l)illi;ii(ls ;m'c nil ;il li;iiul, while the siluation is roin.-mtii- ;in(l 
 picturesc|uc. Our illuslrMtions show tlie position of the liolel, 
 the bathing- accommodation and the railway station. 
 
 Bathers are undisturbed by the presence of sharks, as the 
 reel and rocks ke.'p out these \oracious monsters and render 
 the bathiuij- quite safe and enjoyable. The temperature of the 
 water beinj^ about 85° F. the luxury can be induls^ed in ad 
 libitum. Another boon to the inland resident who visits Mount 
 Lavinia is the plentiful supply of fresh fish and the "fish tifhns " 
 and "fish dinners " for which the hotel is noted. In our view 
 of the raihvay station there will be noticed some barracks on 
 the left which were until recently used as a sanitarium for 
 troops ; but since the adoption of Diyatalawa for this purpose 
 they have fallen into disuse. 
 
 The railway station is equipped with a fully furnished 
 ladies' waiting room, and two waiting halls provided with 
 seats for the different classes of passengers. There are about 
 twenty trains to Colombo on week-days and seven on Sundays. 
 Besides the hotel the station serves the village of (ialkissa, 
 which has a population of about 5,000. 
 
 No horse carriages are available for hire ; but bullock 
 hackeries can be obtained at rates of 50 cents a mile for 
 Europeans and 25 cents for natives. 
 
 Cocoanuts, cinnamon and native vegetables. Fish is the 
 only commodity sent by rail. 
 
 Lace, bamboo tats (shade blinds), bullock carts, curiosities 
 and carved furniture are all manufactured in the village of 
 Galkissa. 
 
 The Church of England, Roman Catholics, Wesleyans and 
 Buddhists all have small schools in the village. The Buddhists 
 have several wihares (Buddhist temples), dewales (Hindu 
 shrines attached to Buddhist temples) and pansalas (Buddhist 
 monasteries). 
 
 Snipe shooting can be had in season within a mile of the 
 station. 
 
 Angulana 
 
 AxGi'LAXA (iim. 22c.). — Angulana is a village of about 
 1,000 inhabitants. Its local manufactures are limited to 
 buttons and walking sticks. Cocoanuts, betel and cinnamon 
 are its chief agricultural products. Its principal estate is the 
 Kandapola Cinnamon Estate, which is illustrated by plate 174, 
 the property of Lady de Soysa. The Anglicans, Wesleyans 
 and Roman Catholics each have churches and schools in the 
 village. The station is small and its business limited to 
 passengers and the despatch of about ten tons of fish per 
 week to Colombo.
 
 liATMINO HOUSE. 
 
 170. I HEADERS FROM THE ROCKS. 
 
 171. MOUNT LAVINIA STATION. 
 
 ITS. RAILWAY DRIDQE. 
 
 173. THC OALU BOAO.
 
 NDAPOLA CINNAr.lON ESTAT 
 
 SUNDAY SCHOOL. 
 
 79. CARPENTERS. 
 
 ISO. PRINCE OF WALES COLLEGE. 
 
 PRINCE OF WALES' COLLEGE
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 
 
 121 
 
 LuNAWA (12m. 5c.). — Lunawa is a village of about 1,800 *^oa*t i-""e 
 inhabitants, almost entirely Sinhalese. The cocoanut is its i.unawa 
 chief product of the soil, and its manufactures arc limited to 
 furniture and general carpentry work. The main Colombo- 
 Galle Road runs parallel with the railway at a distance of half 
 a mile from the station. The Prince of Wales' College for 
 boys, an extensive and successful institution founded by the 
 munificence of the late Mr. C. H. de Soysa, is situated here. 
 It is afTiliatcd to the Calcutta University, and has proved of 
 immense benefit to the adjoining large and populous town of 
 Moratuwa. 
 
 Passengers will find a resthouse close to the station, where 
 food can be obtained without any previous notice. Good buggy 
 carts and hackeries drawn by single bulls can also be obtained 
 by those who desire to explore the neighbourhood. 
 
 Local 
 accommoJatioit 
 
 Moratuwa (13m. 7c.). — Moratuwa, which with its adjoin- Moratuwa 
 ing village contains a population of 30,000, is an exceedingly 
 picturesque town. Its inhabitants apply themselves chiefly to 
 one calling — that of carpentry. The visitor who wishes for 
 a glimpse of native life pure and simple may obtain it here 
 amidst the pleasantest surroundings. 
 
 The railway station is in the town and possesses a ladies' Raifutiy 
 waiting-room in addition to the usual waiting-hall. There is ^'"^''"•" 
 no refreshment-room ; but quite near the station is the Reliance 
 Hotel where food can be obtained without previous arrange- 
 ment, both for Europeans and natives. It has also sleeping 
 accommodation to the extent of seven double bed-rooms. Horse c...i;o...uc^ 
 carriages, buggy carts and hackeries can be readily obtained 
 near the station. Particularly nice hackeries can be hired at 
 \(r\ moderate rates, and are most convenient for visiting the 
 \'arious interesting spots. 
 
 The chief agricultural products are cocoanuts, cinnamon Local fro,luci 
 and betel. A large quantity of arrack is distilled here, of which 
 some 250 tons are sent off by rail during the course of the 
 year. IMumbago mining is carried on to some extent in the 
 neiglibourhood, and an average of about ten tons per niDnth 
 is despatched by rail. 
 
 The local manufactures, in addition to furniture of r\iry Manu/aciurts 
 description, are carriages, tea-chests and lace. The tea-chests 
 despatched by rail average about sixty tons a month. 
 
 We have already noticed the splendid endowment of the />ij/i7m/i<>»« 
 late Mr. C. H. de Soysa in the direction of education; wc 
 shall now see in the town of Moratuwa further evidences of 
 the philanthropy and large-minded generosity not only of 
 himself but also of his ancestors and his descendants. Their 
 public spirit is evident everywhere in the roads which they
 
 rill'; HOOK OI-" c■I■:^■Lox 
 
 Coast Line 
 
 Moialuwa 
 
 The hackery 
 
 A ttractions 
 of Moratuwa 
 
 have made- aiui llic public l)uilclini;s thcv have erected. Xot 
 the least ot these are for the promotion of the reh^ious weUare 
 of the inhabitants ; the beautiful church of Holy limmanuel 
 which we ilUistrate (Plates 17O and 177), and the extensixe and 
 handsome Sunda}- School (Plate 17S). 
 
 There are also large Roman Catholic churches and schools 
 as well as Wesleyan and Baptist. The .Sinhalese inhabitants 
 are mostly Christians, but a considerable number of Buddhists 
 have also their Wihares, of which the (iaui^arama is the chief 
 one in the town. 
 
 The hackery which we illustrate by plate 182 is the i,^enuine 
 Moratuwa article and was photographed near the station. 
 We disport ourselves in this, dangling our legs at the back 
 as the driver dangles his in front. Our steed is a smooth- 
 skinned little bull with a hump above his shoulders with which 
 he draws the car by pressing against the cross-bar affixed to 
 the shafts. His legs are slender, almost deer-like, and his pace 
 is nearly equal to that of a pony. He is guided in driving by 
 thin reins of rope, which are passed through the nostril. Bar- 
 barous as it may seem to bore a hole through this sensitive 
 part for such a purpose, it is doubtful whether he suffers more 
 by this method than he would by any other that could be 
 devised. The hackery is essentially' the carriage of the middle- 
 class native. The whole turn-out may cost from jQi to £,7 
 or ;^'8, according to the age and quality of the bull and quality 
 of the car. The upkeep amounts to little, while the cost of 
 fodder is a very few shillings per month. So it will be evident 
 that the hire to be paid by the passenger is not a ruinous 
 sum ; but however little, it should be agreed upon at the start. 
 50 cents or 8d. an hour would be the approximate charge ; but 
 there is no fare fixed by local ordinance in the out-stations and 
 villages. However sporting the European visitor may feel 
 he will be well advised not to try his hand at driving the bull, 
 a proceeding which would certainly result in ignominious 
 disaster. The useful little beasts are very obedient to the nati\e, 
 whose voice they understand, but ha\e a great objection to 
 being handled by the European. Upon turning from the station 
 road" the bazaar with its gabled roofs illustrated by plate 183 
 will attract attention. Thence we should drive on to the toll- 
 bar (Plate 184), and leaving our little car stroll on to the bridge 
 which crosses the Panadure River (Plate 185). Here will be 
 noticed many quaint scenes, not the least interesting being 
 the manipulation of the extensive but frail-looking bamboo 
 rafts used bv the natives for river traffic (Plate i8(ij. A drive 
 along the Cialle-Colombo road in the direction of Lunawa will 
 afford considerable interest (Plate 175), and afterwards a look 
 around the various furniture factories, winding up the excursion
 
 182. THE HACKERY. 
 
 183. MORATUWA OA.'; 
 
 ■<E GRiDOr. 
 
 IRO. BAMBOO RAFTS. 
 
 
 IBS. EUROPEAN CHILDREN ON THE LAGOON.
 
 189. IVIORATUWA MAIDS.
 
 THK HOOK ()!• Ci:\LU.\ 125 
 
 with a row ujx)!! the extensive and beautiful hike. 'I'lie ^""st Line 
 primitive methods of the carpenters, who construct their own Uc ).i.'i.:..i 
 tools and employ their toes as well as their fingers in their 
 work, will strike the visitor as a strange contrast to the 
 methods of the West. 
 
 Although not very skilful in designing, they are clever Furniture 
 
 -' , . , , * , ttutustFy 
 
 workmen and carve beaulilully. Some of their cabmet work 
 is exquisite ; but the chief industry of the village is the making 
 of cheap furniture, 'ihousands of tables, chairs, couches and 
 bedsteads are made in the course of the year, under palm- 
 thatched sheds on the banks of a beautiful lagoon. These 
 workshops, embowered in luxuriant foliage, are so unlike the 
 furniture factories of the western world, the work is carried 
 on so patiently, and the surroundings are so fascinating, that 
 we scarcely realise that the earnest business of life is being 
 carried on. Indeed, there is no stern-featured diligence, hard 
 work, hurry and bustle, as in Europe. A shilling a day pro- 
 vides the wherewithal for the workman and his family, and 
 it is permitted to be leisurely earned. The methods of the 
 Moratuwa carpenter correspond with his enchanting surround- 
 ings ; for all work in a tropical village is of an ttl-fresci) nature, 
 and never prosecuted too seriously. 
 
 The European visitor is sure of a welcome and everything 
 is open to his ins[>ection. His presence is always an occasion 
 of great interest and amusement to the non-workers, and 
 especially the children, who flock around him and wonder at 
 the curiosity which he exhibits in their parents' occupations. 
 
 Parties of Europeans not infrequently visit Moratuwa to be The lagoon 
 entertained by the Carpenters, who upon short notice decorate 
 one of their timber boats and place it at the disposal of the 
 party. By this means the many interesting places on the 
 banks of the great lagoon may be reached. 
 
 The gentleness and courtesy of these people cannot be 
 too highly spoken of, and their appearance quite accords with 
 these qualities. vSlender frames, small hands and feet, pleas- 
 ing features and light brown complexions are their common 
 characteristics. The faces of the young Sinhalese women arc 
 pleasing, their figures are remarkably good and well-propor- 
 tioned, and their arms and hands are beautifully formed. An 
 <;1(1 in.iid amongst them is almost unknown. They marry 
 \cry early, and are often grandmot lurs at thirty. After that 
 age they soon lose their graceful ligures, and although they 
 are generally as long-lived as iunopeans, they lose their youth- 
 lul appearance at an earlier age. 
 
 \ large estuar\ , tniaffected by tides, which, as has been 
 before remarked, are almost non-existing on this coast, pro- 
 vides Moratuwa with its extensive and ornamental lagoon. Its
 
 126 
 
 IIII-: HOOK ()!■ CKMX)X 
 
 Coast Line 
 
 Moialtiu'ii 
 
 (-harm as a i)li'asure resort is all too little rec-oi^-niscd hv the 
 residents of Colombo ; but that it is so used may be seen from 
 our photographs (IMates 190 to 194). The b.st method (jf 
 arrang-ing- a day's picnic is to make up a considerable party ; 
 hire two of the lari^e tlat-bottomed boats, roofed with plaited 
 fronds of the eoeoanut palm, as seen in our illustrations, the one 
 for the party and the other for commissariat and attendants; 
 to accompany these hire also a couple or more small out- 
 rlfi^g-er canoes. With this equipment and the active g-oodwill 
 and welcome of the whole native community in the vicinity no 
 Henley under the brightest of summer skies could pro\ide a 
 more delightful picnic. 
 
 It will be observed that Moratuwa is within the region of 
 cultivated cinnamon. In our peregrinations we shall have 
 noticed large gardens of this renowned laurel, which still 
 attracts cultivators even to an extent almost inducing over- 
 production. Indeed the supply is so fully equal to the demand 
 that the profit now obtainable by its cultivation is insufficient 
 to attract the European investor. We cannot here afford space 
 to trace the history of this interesting product from the time 
 when Moses was commanded to take 250 shekels of cinnamon 
 as part of the ingredients for the manufacture of holy anointing 
 oil for consecration purposes. Where the cinnamon of Moses 
 was grown is a matter of some doubt ; but the tree is regarded 
 by the highest authorities as indigenous to Ceylon where the 
 situation and climate are so exactly suited to it that none so fine 
 and delicately aromatic has been found elsewhere. It has been 
 referred to by many ancient classical writers and always re- 
 garded as a greatly prized luxury — a gift for kings. In the 
 markets of early times it can only have existed in small quan- 
 tities, for we find the price paid in ancient Rome to have been 
 the equivalent of ;^8 sterling per pound weight. Its cultiva- 
 tion is not referred to, and there seems to have been an im- 
 pression even so late as the middle of the seventeenth century 
 that cinnamon was only good when allowed to grow in a wild 
 state. The cinnamon of commerce flourishes only in a small 
 portion of Ceylon, near the coast, from Negombo twenty miles 
 north of Colombo to Matara at the extreme south of the island. 
 Where it grows the air is moist, the rainfall copious and 
 frequent, and the soil dry and sandy on the surface with a 
 stratum of richer soil beneath. Some trees are found farther 
 inland in the wooded valleys that intervene between the suc- 
 cessive ridges of the Kandyan mountains, but they give a 
 coarser bark with a strong flavour which is not appreciated. 
 Cultivation has also been tri^d in the Kandyan country, but 
 has not resulted in any measure of success. The Portuguese 
 obtained their cinnamon bv enslaving the Chalias — a caste of
 
 190-194. PICNIC PARTIES ON THE LAGOON AT MORATUWA.
 
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 195. BUNGALOW OF MR. J. W. C. de SOYSA AT MORATUWA. 
 
 196 LOPPING THE CINNAMON TREES.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLOX 
 
 129 
 
 low social grade who had adopted the calling- of cinnamon C""* *-'"* 
 searchers and peelers — and sending^ out gangs of them into the cinnamon 
 wilds in search of the coveted spice under most heartless regula- 
 tions framed under compact with the native kings of Cotta. 
 An officer was placed in charge of a gang, which numbered 
 515 Chalias, who had to enter the forest and remain there till 
 they had brought in the stipulated quantity. They were accom- 
 panied by drummers and guns to drive off the elephants. The 
 Dutch in their turn treated the wretched Chalias no better, 
 adopting the system that had been organised by their pre- 
 decessors. W'c see these people of the Chalia caste to-day ; 
 but free and happy, thriving in various free occupations that 
 have under the British Government brought prosperity and 
 wealth amongst them. 
 
 The cinnamon of Ceylon remained a government monopoly ^i<^<Mfoiy 
 until 1832, when the monopoly was abandoned and the trade 
 thrown open to all. But the Government remained as a com- 
 petitor till 1840, when it divested itself of the estates, which 
 passed into private hands. A mistake was made in keeping 
 up an intolerable duty on its export, until in 1845 it was realised 
 that the whole industry would be ruined by foreign com- 
 petition and the substitute of cassia, unless it were set free, 
 and the belated relief was afforded. Since that reform the 
 export, being in private hands, has enormously increased. It 
 is interesting to note that the largest annual export by the 
 Dutch was 600,000 lbs., worth upwards of ;^r400,ooo. Twenty 
 years ago in one season 2,000,000 lbs. were shipped, but the 
 price was so reduced by the additional supply that it was worth 
 only about _;^250,ooo ; and in 1903 the exports were 5,300,000 
 lbs., worth about ;^i 76.700, or eightpence per pound. Here 
 the limit of profitable supply has been reached. There is prac- LimU of 
 tically no limit to the amount that Ceylon could furnish ; and f,^p^'v * 
 the consumer now obtains the article at the lowest possible 
 price under free trade conditions. 
 
 The trees in an uncultivated stale grow to the height of The tree 
 twenty to thirty feet, and the trunk may be three feet in cir- 
 cumference. The leaf has not much taste, but the stalks of 
 the leaves taste very plcasantlv of cinnamon. The voung 
 leaves are of mixed flame-colour and yellow ; after a short 
 time they become of a beautiful pea-green, and upon reaching 
 maturity they put on a dark olive tint. The blossoms are 
 white with a brownish tinge in the middle, and produce fruit 
 in the form of an acorn but more diminutive. The trees culti- 
 vated to produce the cinnamon of commerce are not allowed to 
 grow above ten feet. The branches that arc lopped off to be 
 barked arc of about the size and thickness of an ordinary 
 walking stick. Th(^ trees can be grown from seeds or shoots. 
 I
 
 130 
 
 Till-: BOOK OI< Ci:\'I,ON 
 
 CiniiiniKin 
 iultivalio), 
 
 Hciivcsliiif; 
 
 Peeling 
 
 Coast Line When thcv arc about three years old thev afford one branch 
 fil b)r ciillinj^- ; al li\c years they fJi'ive three and at ei^-ht years 
 ten brandies ol an irn b thickness. At twiKc vcars the tree 
 is in its j^reatest ])eileclion, but it will lloniish lor a century. 
 The tree ])loss()nis in January ; in April the fruit is ripe and 
 tlu' cultinj^- is done from May to October. The harvest opera- 
 tions are these : the Chalia ^oes forth into the j^'ardens, selects 
 a tree the suitability of which he disting"uishes bv its leaves 
 and other characteristics. When the tree is seen to bear fruit 
 well it is in f^'ood health and the l^ark will peel without difficulty. 
 Jo prove whether it is ripe th(; Chalia strikes his hatchet 
 obliquely into the branch ; if on drawing- it out the bark 
 di\ides from tlu' wood, the cinnamon has reached maturity ; 
 but if not it must go on q-rowing-. The sticks are g-athered by 
 boys and tied into bundles with coir string's ; they are then 
 carried to the peeling- stores, or in case of extensive estates, 
 such as those of the de Soysas at Moratuwa, they are removed 
 in carts. 
 
 The operation of peeling- the sticks requires considerable 
 skill. A knife \\ ith blade of copper two and a half inches long-, 
 something- like that used by shoemakers, sharp pointed and 
 slig^htly hooked, is employed. The peeler seated on the g-round 
 makes two parallel cuts up and down the leng-th of the bark, 
 which, after being- gradually loosened with the point of the 
 knife, he strips off in one entire slip about half the circum- 
 ference of the branch. If the bark does not come away easily 
 the sticks are rubbed vig-orously with a round piece of hard 
 wood which has the effect of loosening- it. The ultimate object 
 of the methods employed is to make the bark up into quills, a 
 ciuill being a solid rod of cinnamon resembling a thin cane four 
 feet in leng-th, in which form it is imported ; the pieces of JDark 
 when stripped are therefore placed round the sticks both with 
 a view to preserving- their shape and as a convenience for the 
 next operation. They are now allowed to remain for three 
 to six hours, when fermentation takes place and the bark is 
 ready for skinning-, which process is accomplished in the follow- 
 ing- manner. The Chalia sits with one foot pressed ag^ainst a 
 piece of wood from which a round stick slopes towards his 
 waist. Upon this stick he lays the slip of bark, keeps it steady 
 with the other foot, and holding- the handle of the knife in one 
 hand and the point of it in the other, scrapes off the skin, 
 which is very thin, of a brown colour on the outside and g-reen 
 within. This treatment of the bark leaves only that part which 
 has the desired delicate taste ; it is of a pale yellow colour 
 and a parchment-like texture. The bark is now left to ferment 
 and dry, which if the weather be favourable takes about thirty 
 minutes. The next process is that of forming- the quills. The 
 
 Skinning
 
 197. SKINNING THE CINNAMON STICKS. 
 
 198. CINNAMON PEELERS.
 
 
 
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 199. PANADURE. 
 
 200. WADDUWA STATiON.
 
 THE BOOK OF C KVLON 133 
 
 smaller pieces are inserted into the larger, and both contracting- Coast i.ine 
 still closer under the process of drying- form solid rods. They 
 are afterwards rolled into perfect shape and made up into 
 bundles. 
 
 Cinnamon Oil is distilkd from the chips and trimmings of 
 the quills. Altogether there are now about forty thousand 
 acres of cinnamon under cultivation in Ceylon. 
 
 Paxadl're (17m. 5 If.). — Panadure, a town of 2,000 in- Panadurc 
 habitants, has many of the characteristics of Moratuwa. Its 
 estuaries, which are more extensive, are dotted w-ith islands 
 that add an extra charm to the landscape. They are the 
 retreats of multitudes of w-ater-fowl and are covered with 
 exquisite vegetation. The passenger should look out for the 
 beautiful view from the railway bridge crossing the mouth 
 of the river near the station. Quaint sights are frequently to 
 be seen here, especially when the native fishermen are dis- 
 porting themselves upon the piles of the fish kraals. 
 
 The station is in the heart of the town and is provided Accommodaiion 
 with the usual waiting-rooms. There is an hotel quite close "",',',.^,„„f„ 
 to it called the Station View Hotel, and a good rest-house 
 about half a mile distant. Previous notice should be given if 
 food is required. Horse carriages and bullock hackeries can 
 be obtained near the station at very moderate rates. 
 
 The chief local agricultural products are cocoanuts, areca Local producis 
 nuts, plantains, cinnamon, tea, rubber, paddy, betel and 
 pepper. Arrack is distilled in great quantity and contributes 
 the greater portion of the freight to the railway here, about 
 eighty tons a month being despatched, and twenty-five tons 
 of vinegar. 
 
 The visitor to Panadure will lind the townspeople engaged •W.i'ii</<»c'"»-« 
 in the manufacture of tea chests, brass and silver work, 
 coir rope and matting, agricultural implements, furniture and 
 carriages. 
 
 The boys and girls of Panadure ha\-e excellent educational ^r'"'"'' "'"' 
 opportunities no matter what their creed. St. John's English 
 High School (Church of P2ngland) is in the hands of an accom- 
 plished master, while the vernacular schools of the Roman 
 Catholics, Wesleyans and Buddhists afford every facility that 
 is needed by the various classes. There are three Christian 
 churches and two Buddhist wihares. 
 
 There are two interesting historical events that are asso- /^"','"|;jf^"' 
 ciated in the popular mind with Panadure. Both were battles. 
 The first occurred in the twelfth century, when .Mekcswera, a 
 famous general of King Parakrama Bahu of Polonnaruwa, 
 met the Indian invaders near Panadure and defeated (hem. 
 The second belongs to the struggle for supremacy between the
 
 134 
 
 Till-: nooK ()!• ci:nl(j\ 
 
 Coast l^ine 
 
 I'liHdiluii; 
 
 Sport 
 
 Raliuiptirn 
 
 l)iit(l) ;in<l PortUi^ucsc in the .sf\ fiitccnth ctnlur}'. Manhini^ 
 thrc-c thousand strong ironi Kalutara to Colombo, the Dutch 
 had safely crossed the I'anadure River, when their progress 
 was disputed hy sexcn luindred picked troops of the i^jrtugucsc 
 \vh(i liad been employed in the wars against the Kandyan 
 Kuig. The latter were surrounded and five hundred of them 
 slain ; the sur\'ivors suc-ceeded in reaching Colombo again, but 
 in such sorry plight that half of them died of their wounds. 
 
 Wild fowl in prodigious numbers, and the reptile denizens 
 of the lake, its islands and the luxuriant woods that surround 
 it, pro\ide good sport for week-end parties from Colombo. 
 
 A most enjoyable trip may be made by coach from I'ana- 
 dure to Ratnapura (forty-two miles), returning by boat upon 
 the Kaluganga or Black River to Kalutara (sec Kalutara). 
 
 Waddiw A (_>im. 371'.). — W'adduwa is a village of about 
 3,000 inhabitants. It owes its name, said to be derived from 
 u-akc, curve, and dinva, island, to the physical circumstance 
 that it is surrounded by a narrow canal. The station, of which 
 w'e give an illustration [Plate 200), deals only with passenger 
 traffic. It is situated in the village, which is entirely em- 
 bowered in palms. Its produce is cocoanuts, cinnamon and 
 betel, and its manufactures, coir rope and matting, and to a 
 small extent l^rass work and silver and gold jewellery. There 
 is no special attraction or accommodation for visitors. 
 
 The bridge 
 
 The Kalii 
 Ganga 
 
 Kaiatara North (2()m. (ic.) and Kai.ltara Soitii 
 (27m. 28c.). — Kalutara is a large town of considerable im- 
 portance, in a beautiful situation at the mouth of the Kalu- 
 ganga or Black River. It boasts of two railway stations which 
 serve the north and south of the town respectively. One is 
 on each side of the river, which is spanned by a magnificent 
 iron bridge. 
 
 This bridge is 1,200 feet long and is composed of spans 
 of 100 feet. Both the Colombo-Cialle road and the railway 
 are carried by this bridge. The entrance to it from Kalutara 
 North, where road and rail converge, is shown by plate 201. 
 The first half reaches an island in the middle of the river ^\•hich 
 is shown in plate 202, and the second section depicted by 
 plate 203 clears the remaining portion of the river and enters 
 Kalutara South, the older and more important part of the 
 town. From this bridge we get our view (Plate 204) showing 
 the quaint boats consisting of two dug-outs joined by a plat- 
 form or deck upon which is built a house with plaited fronds 
 of the cocoanut palm. By means of these boats the native 
 trades between Kalutara and Ratnapura, the city of gems, 
 about fifty miles up-river. Perhaps this is the finest stretch
 
 rHANCE TO KALUTARA BRIDGE. 
 
 202. THE ISLAND BETWEEN THE FIRST AND SECOND SECTIONS Of THE nHlDGf.
 
 
 4%!rt2tf *^ 
 
 ■ i 
 
 
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 IB^ 
 
 r - — - 
 
 203. KALUTARA BRIDGE. 
 
 f^ U\Air.. ,». ._- 
 
 
 
 ^- 
 
 IBHHIE^^^^'^'^^^SdZZjf^ .jS^^^^^^^Bj^r 
 
 
 204. THE KALU GANGA
 
 THE BOOK OI- CEYLON 137 
 
 of river sctnery in Ceylon ; but the visitor who wishes to Coast Line 
 explore it will drive to Ratnapura from Avisawela station on y,,-, ,^, 
 the Kelani Valley line (twenty-six miles) or from Panadurc Ratnapura 
 station on this line (forty-two miles) and sail down the river 
 to Kalutara. To go up the river by boat is a long and weari- 
 some business owing to the rapidity and volume of the stream. 
 Both routes pass through scenery of indescribable loveliness. 
 If the Panadure one is chosen the beautiful Bolgoda lake is 
 crossed by a bridge soon after leaving the village. At the 
 tenth mile Horana is reached. Here there is a good rest-house no>ana 
 built amidst the ruins of an ancient Buddhist monastery and 
 near a large and interesting temple which should receive a 
 visit. A bronze candlestick, eight feet high, and of remark- 
 able native workmanship, will be pointed out to the stranger. 
 Nambapanne is reached at the twenty-eighth mile. Here x.n-.i.i'^.umc 
 there is also a rest-house pleasantly situated. At the thirty- 
 second mile we come to Kiri Ela and the road follows the 
 general course of the river. At the fortieth mile, a couple of 
 miles before Ratnapura, we shall find the Maha Saman Dewale, 
 a Buddhist temple, which is the owner of a large extent of 
 landed property. The relics enshrined in it are worth inspec- 
 tion. We shall also notice in the courtyard a slab carved in 
 bas-relief representing a Portuguese knight in armour killing 
 a Sinhalese man whom he has trampled under his feet. For 
 exquisite scenery many award the palm to Ratnapura. Cer- Ratnatura 
 tain it is that no traveller can be disappointed ; for here are 
 obtainable distant views of great sublimity in mountain walls 
 clothed with forest rising thousands of feet in sheer per- 
 pendicular; and in the nearer landscape well-watered valleys 
 and undulating plains may be seen teeming with every form 
 of tropical flora. Ratnapura is also the centre of the gemming Gam 
 industry, which is entirely in native hands. Here the traveller 
 can obtain an insight into the methods by which the hidden 
 treasures of the earth are brought to light. Here under our 
 feet lie the gems that will some day adorn future generations 
 of the wealthy. The discovery of these precious stones is an 
 unceasing source of considerable wealth. The gem-digger 
 comes upon a sapphire with the possible result that a thousand 
 pounds from the coffers of the Rajah in a distant land is 
 transferred to the sum of wealth in Ce\lon, but such valuable 
 finds are few and far between, (ienuine stones there are in 
 abundance, but those that are flawless and of ajiproved tint 
 are the prizes of the industry. 
 
 The sail down from Ratnapura to Kalutara is a perfect IJ" K«t}* 
 rhapsody of delight ; the shores are resplendent with colour RaiMpu'ra'to 
 and beauty of trees and flowers ; now a temple lifts its head K^'-'^ra 
 above the foliage ; now a village encompassed by groves of
 
 t3« 
 
 Tin-: iu)()K ()!• (:i':\'LON 
 
 Coast Line 
 
 Attractions of 
 Kiilutiiia 
 
 Local 
 accommodation 
 
 Conveyances 
 
 Sport 
 
 Fruit 
 
 Picturesque 
 features 
 
 tamarinds, jaks, talipcjls aiul kitool. Alont^ the l)aiiks on 
 cither side wave the yellow slenis and feathery lea\(s ol the 
 bamboos, while the broad and rippling stream bears us (jn its 
 bosom in one lonj^- dream of lo\-eliness for the whole fifty miles 
 of our journey. 
 
 The enjoyment of the natural beauties of Kalutara is not 
 spoilt by the presence of a teeming population. The well laid 
 out and park-like appearance of the town as approached from 
 the southern end of the bridge gives a pleasant first impres- 
 sion, and one hears without surprise that the place has enjoyed a 
 great reputation as a sanitarium from the time of the Dutch, 
 by whom it was held in great esteem. The remains of the 
 old fort (Plate 206) which they built upon a natural eminence 
 at the mouth of the river are conspicuous as we leave the 
 bridge. Upon this site now stands the new residence of the 
 chief Government oflRcial of the district, and immediately below 
 it are the Kachcheri or Government Offices (Plate 211). The 
 Anglican Church of St. John (Plate 205) comes next into view ; 
 it was built in 1876 and was the first new church consecrated 
 by the present Metropolitan Bishop of Calcutta when Bishop 
 of Colombo. A short distance farther on we find ourselves in 
 the heart of the town, where the law courts are seen on the 
 right and the police station on the left embowered in glorious 
 foliage (Plate 207). A new rest-house of two storeys with every 
 convenience and comfort for the traveller faces the sea and 
 esplanade near the law courts. It has ample accommodation 
 for six visitors — six bedrooms and six bath-rooms, in addition 
 to a spacious dining-room and broad verandahs. Excellent 
 catering will be found, no previous notice being required here. 
 There are also five native hotels in the town. Carriages can 
 be obtained at the rates of one rupee (is. 4d.) for the first 
 hour and 25 cents (4d.) for each subsequent hour. The charge 
 for long journeys in visiting distant tea and rubber estates is 
 50 cents (8d.) per mile. Bullock hackeries can be hired at 
 the rate of 25 cents (4d.) per mile. Near the rest-house is 
 Kalutara South railway station. 
 
 Very good snipe-shooting can be had in the neighbourhood 
 during the season November to February, particularly at Pana- 
 pitya, about three miles distant. 
 
 Kalutara is a good district for fruit, and as we proceed 
 onwards through the town we shall not fail to notice the open 
 stalls (Plate 210), laden w^th large supplies of mangosteens, 
 mangoes, pineapples and rambuttans. 
 
 The Dutch houses with their double verandahs (Plate 209) 
 add decidedly to the picturesqueness of the roads, which reaches 
 its highest development at Kalutara. Most charming is an 
 inlet of the sea which washes the embankment of the railwav
 
 7i^ 
 
 
 205. CHURCH OF ST JOHN. 
 
 ;00. REMAINS OF DUTCH FORT. 
 
 ■ 
 
 ■ 
 
 Pi 
 
 ^1;^^ 
 ^':^^ 
 
 ^^E 
 
 
 H| 
 
 
 He-^'^i . 
 
 '. r.,i^,>> • '^^ 
 
 
 207. ROAD SCENE IN KALUTARA. 
 
 200. View from teak bungalow 
 
 
 
 ifii.:.fi^i«'^ 
 
 JS''\I idi^ 
 
 ■id 
 
 "^1 
 
 IS 
 
 200. DUTCH HOUSE IN KALUTARA. 
 
 ;iO. FRUIT BAZAAR.
 
 213. BANYAN TREE. 
 
 KALUTARA BASKET TREE. 
 
 Ite 
 
 1 
 
 -iwau 
 
 ■M»>-_- .] 
 
 mmttfr:^ - -' 
 
 
 THE TODDY DRAWER. 
 
 THE ASCENT OF THE TODDY DRAWER.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLOX 141 
 
 as it leaves the town (Plate 221). The road and rail here run Coast Line 
 alongside of each other. A short distance beyond the scene 
 in our picture we come upon the curious and beautiful tree 
 illustrated in plate 213, a fine old banyan {Ficus indica), which 
 extends to a great height and has thrown an arch across the 
 road. The upper portion harbours a mass of parasitic plants 
 and ferns of exuberant growth, the whole forming a lofty 
 rampart of vegetation from which depend the filaments and 
 aerial roots of the parent tree in graceful and dainty tracery. 
 Our plate shows only the lower portion of this wonderful tree. 
 
 Wc now turn off the main road and dri\ e through the 
 back streets, although that somewhat disparaging epithet is 
 hardly suitable as applied to lanes where slender palms with 
 sunlit crowns form a lofty canopy from which garlands hang 
 in natural grace over every humble dwelling ; where even the 
 palm-thatched roofs are often decorated by the spontaneous 
 growth of the gorgeous climbing " Neyangalla " lily. In this 
 fairyland we strike the note of human interest ; for here is 
 Xonahamy seated at the entrance of her dwelling engaged in 
 the gentle occupation of weaving the famous Kalutara baskets. Kaiutara 
 These dainty little articles are made in numberless shapes and baskets 
 sizes, and for a variety of useful purposes, from the betel case 
 and cigar case to the larger receptacle for the odds and ends of 
 madame's fancy work. Those of the ordinary rectangular sort 
 are made in nests of twelve or more, fitted into one another for 
 convenience in transport, and the visitor seldom comes away 
 without a nest or two of these most useful and very moderately- 
 priced articles. The process of manufacture is simple : chil- 
 dren are sent out into the jungle to cut off the thin fibres 
 from the fronds of the pahn illustrated in plate 214; these are 
 split into narrow slips and fl\ed with vegetable dyes black. 
 Yellow and red, and then wo\en bv the skilful fingers of girls. 
 
 At Kalutara we are in the midst of another industry \\ hich Toddv and 
 is of immense proportions and productive of a large amount 
 of rc;venue — the distillation of arrack. We shall have noticed 
 the apparent barrenness of the cocoanut trees in the extensi\e 
 groves through which we have passed. This peculiarity is due 
 not to the inability of the palms to produce fine fruit, but 
 results from the somewhat unnatural culture, by which they 
 are made to yield drink in place of food. Each tree extends 
 beneath its crown of leaves a long and solid spathe in which 
 aic cradltcl bunches ol i\'ory-like blossoms bearing the embryo 
 nuts. When the branch is half shot, the toddy-drawer ascends 
 the tree by the aid of a loop of fibre passed round his ankles, 
 giving security to the grip of his feet, which owing to their 
 innocence of shoes have retained all their primitive prehensile 
 endowment, and proc-eeds to bind the spathe tiglitly in a
 
 14; 
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Coast Line 
 
 Todily and , 
 attack 
 
 Local 
 products 
 
 Plumbago 
 
 b;iiul.it;c of ynuno- leaf; he then mercilessly belabours it with 
 a bkuli^coii of hard wood, 'i'his assault is repeated daily for 
 a week or more till the sap begins to appear. A portion of 
 the llower-stalk is then cut off, with the result that the stump 
 begins to bleed. The toddy-drawer now suspends beneath each 
 maltreated blossom a small earthenware chattie or gourd to 
 receive the juice. This liquor is toddy. Day by day he ascends 
 the tree and pours the liquid from the chattie into a larger 
 vessel which he carries suspended from his waist. In many 
 groves of cocoanut palms there is a network of ropes reaching 
 from tree to tree ; for our drawer is a funambulist of some skill, 
 and even on a slack rope he will frequently make his way 
 safely to the next tree; but not always. Sometimes he falls, 
 and as the ropes are from sixty to ninety feet above the ground 
 the result is always fatal. The number of such accidents 
 recorded annually is upwards of three hundred. " Toddy " is 
 probably a corruption of the Sanscrit tari, palm liquor; but 
 doubtless a Scotsman is entitled to claim the credit of the 
 application of the term in its European shape to the wine of 
 his country. Toddy is in great favour amongst the natives as 
 a beverage, and when taken at an early stage of its existence 
 is said to be pleasant and wholesome ; but after fermentation 
 has made progress it is intoxicating. Toddy may be regarded 
 as the wine and arrack the brandy into which most of the 
 former is distilled. If the visitor drives to Teak Bungalow, 
 from the garden of which we get our view (Plate 208), he will 
 see quite close to it an arrack-store that will create some little 
 astonishment. It contains no fewer than twenty-seven casks 
 of arrack, each containing five thousand gallons. These giant 
 vats are of ordinarv barrel shape and were made by native 
 coopers. The toddy and arrack rents and licences bring 
 upwards of ;^30o,ooo annually to the revenue of the colony. 
 
 During the afterglow that prevails for a few minutes be- 
 tween sundown and complete darkness we may see thousands 
 of so-called flying foxes coming south over the Kalu Ganga. 
 They are realTv huge bats with reddish skins and wings that 
 stretch four feet from tip to tip. 
 
 The chief local products are cocoanuts, tea, rubber, paddy, 
 betel, cinnamon, mangosteens and plumbago. There are about 
 thirtv plumbago mines in the district turning out upwards of 
 a thousand tons a year. There are also seventeen thousand 
 acres of tea and upwards of four thousand acres of rubber. 
 
 Although the plumbago mines are not a great attraction 
 to the ordinary visitor, they are not without features of interest 
 to those who care to inspect them. These mines, or pits as 
 they are locally called, are for the most part worked in a 
 primitive fashion. The quaintness of the methods adopted,
 
 217. VILLAGE SCENE ON THE COLOMBO-OA . : .;OAD 
 
 218. THE MOMENTS BETWEEN SUNDOWN AND SUDDEN DARK.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 145 
 
 and the sight ul the inhieral itscli as it lies in its natural bed, ^oast Line 
 will repay the curious lor their trouble. A wide vein of the I'lumhago 
 mineral with its crystals radiating from various centres is a 
 thing of considerable beauty. This useful mineral, known by 
 the various names of plumbago, graphite and blacklead, is 
 merely a form of carbon, and is found in various parts of the 
 world, notably in Bavaria, the Ural Mountains, Mexico and 
 Canada, but nowhere of such excellence and with its refractory 
 qualities in such perfection as in Ceylon. For this reason the 
 Ceylon article is in great demand for the manufacture of 
 crucibles. Its uses in the manufacture of lead pencils and as 
 a lubricator are perhaps more familiar. The export, principally /'s "s« 
 to the United Kingdom and America, in the year 1906 amounted 
 to about fifty thousand tons. The polish communicated by 
 plumbago dust is so brilliant that the unclothed natives mo\ing 
 amongst it acquire the appearance of animated figures of bright soriing 
 steel. An interesting sight is that depicted in plate 219, where 
 a large number of men and women are engaged in sorting and 
 grading the mineral for shipment, carefully picking out all 
 foreign substances. The industry gives employment to upwards 
 of thirty thousand people, and being almost entirely in the 
 hands of the natives, it has during the last twenty years, owing 
 to the great extension of the use of metal-melting crucibles, 
 brought very considerable wealth to the community ; in fact, the 
 production is now exceeding ;^'i,ooo,ooo per annum. Evidence 
 of this great increase of wealth amongst the natives of Ceylon wealth due 
 is visible on every hand ; palatial residences being not the least '" P'"i"'ago 
 of the signs of their prosperity. Wars and rumours of war 
 greatly stimulate the plumbago market on account of the 
 necessity for crucibles in the manufacture of munitions ; thus 
 at the end of the nineteenth century the price almost doubled 
 the average, reaching no less than p£.(i5 per ton. It is now 
 (1907) ;^35 to ;£,^4o for the higher grades, the lower grades 
 running from ;£^io to ;^.2^ per ton. Although the principal situation of 
 mines are situated south of Colombo, from Kalutara to \Veli- ""^ """" 
 gama, there are successful mines in the Kurunegala district of 
 the North-Western Province and also in the Kegalle and Ratna- 
 pura districts of the province of Sabaragamuwa ; but there are 
 none in the northern or eastern divisions of the island. .Some 
 of the larger mines are worked by the aid of machinery and 
 reach a depth of some four to five hundred feet ; others are 
 mere holes opened by villagers who have accidentally stumbled 
 upon plumbago beneath the soil of their gardens or fields. No 
 I'-uro[K'an could easily descend the shafts of the more primitive 
 pits, which are provided merely with rough bamboo ladders 
 tied with coir or jungle ropes, and xcrv slippery from tlie dust 
 of the graphite. Tlic Ijarc-footcd natixc, however, with his 
 K
 
 146 
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Coast Line basket suaiiiis u|) and down with no thought of difficulty or 
 danger. The Cioveniinent levies on all plumbago shipped an 
 export duty at the rate of five rupees per ton which yields, in 
 the present condition of the industry, about ;£^io,ooo per annum 
 to the revenue of the colony. 
 
 Katukurimda Kaiikirinda (jejni. Sc). — Katukurunda is a \illage of 
 
 ab(;ut J, 000 inhabitants who are accommodated by the railway 
 with a passenger station. There is no rest-house or hotel. 
 The <-ocoanut palm is the staple product, while the manufac- 
 tures are limited to the spinning of coir }arn, and the fashion- 
 ing of articles of brass-work. 
 
 Paiyagaia Paiyac;ai,.'\ North (31m. i()c.) and Paiva(;ala Soltii (31m. 
 
 75c.). — Paiyagaia North is simply a passenger station without 
 waiting-rooms and there is no other accommodation at or near 
 it. Paiyagaia South is of greater importance and does a con- 
 siderable business in goods as well as passengers. These 
 stations serve a population of about 7,000, the inhabitants of 
 a group of villages including Induruwegoda, Paleyangoda, 
 Kachchagoda, Gabadagoda, Pothuwila, Parranikkigoda, Goma- 
 ragoda, Pahalagoda, Mahagammedda and \'eragala. The 
 names of the villages from which the stations take their names 
 are Maha-Paiyagala to the south and Kuda-Paiyagala to the 
 north. These villages are almost as picturesque as their 
 names. The level crossing (Plate 224) where the Colombo-Galle 
 road passes over the railway is a charming subject for the 
 artist; and the avenues from the station both north and south 
 (Plates 223 and 225) are especially beautiful and give a very 
 good idea of the groves of palms in which these stations of 
 the coast line nestle. 
 
 Msitors to Paiyagaia should send on a servant to engage 
 hackeries, which are not always in readiness here. They can 
 however generally be obtained, the rate being 25 cents a mile. 
 
 The Buddhist temple of \\'cragalakanda, a \\'ihare with 
 Dagaba and Pansala, about a mile and a half distant, is 
 situated on the top of a hill commanding exquisite views of 
 the countrv around. Other temples in the vicinity are the 
 Duwe Pansala and W'ihare, the temple of the late High Priest 
 Indasabha, the founder of the Buddhist sect called Ramanna 
 Nickaya; and the Gornarakande temple. 
 Local products Cocoanuts, toddy, arrack, paddy, cinnamon and areca 
 
 nuts are the chief products. Tea and rubber are also sent to 
 this station from estates a few miles distant. Fishing is an 
 important industry, and Paiyagaia South supplies Colombo 
 with about five tons of fish a month. Some indication of the 
 oc(^upation of the people may be gathered from a recital of the 
 railwav freights, which average in a vear 210 tons of arrack, 
 
 Railway 
 scenery 
 
 Conveyances 
 
 Objects of 
 interest
 
 220. LITTLE LUXURIES FOR PASSERSBV. 
 
 223, PAIYAGALA SOUT 
 
 ;4. pAiYAOALA cnossi»a
 
 DERUV/ALA Mt-Z!- 
 
 11^. BERUWALA BAY. 
 
 230. COAST NEAR BERUWALA. 
 
 aa.. FISHING BOATS AT BERUWALA
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 149 
 
 go tons of plumbago, 75 tons of timber, 40 tons of tea, 30 tons Coast Line 
 of coperah, 50 tons of areca nuts and 10 tons of coir yarn. 
 There is also a considerable trade in cabook stone for build- 
 ing purposes. 
 
 Maggona (33m. loc). — Maggona is a village of about '^^"ffKona 
 3,500 inhabitants, mostly of the fisher caste. It affords no 
 special attractions or accommodation for visitors. The Roman 
 Catholics have made it a mission station of considerable im- 
 portance, where they have a large reformatory as well as 
 industrial and other schools. 
 
 Beruwala (35m. 7c.). — Beruwala, or Barberyn as it is Beruwaia 
 often called, is situated upon one of the most picturesque bits 
 of coast in Ceylon. Its charming bay, always lined with quaint 
 craft and busy with the operations of the fishermen (Plates 228 
 and 229), extends to a headland of considerable prominence, off 
 which lies the island of Welmaduwa. Here will be seen one 
 of the Imperial lighthouses built in the form of a round tower 
 of grey gneiss rock. The structure is 122 feet high and its 
 light can be seen at a distance of nineteen miles. The traveller 
 who wishes to see the beauties of the bay should make his 
 way along the road shown in plate 232 and hire an outrigger 
 canoe to visft the island. Should he be interested in the 
 methods of fishing employed by the natives (Plate 228) this will 
 prove an admirable place to watch their operations. The 
 Beruwala bazaar (Plate 226) is a particularly lively one and 
 ministers to a large population ; for the villages here are 
 grouped rather densely together. W^e illustrate the railway 
 station (Plate 227), which it will be noticed is laid out for both 
 passengers and goods. We have now reached a part of the 
 south-west coast where the inhabitants are less purely Sin- 
 halese. The Moors about here form a considerable portion of 
 the population and their ethnology may be of some interest to 
 the stranger. The term Moor or Moorman in Ceylon properly 
 indicates a native Mohammedan, although it is popularly sup- 
 posed to mean an Indo-Arab. It has, however, been clearly 
 shown by the Hon. Mr. Ramanathan that the name was first 
 given by the Portuguese to those natives whom they found 
 at Beruwala and other places professing the Mohammedan 
 religion, and who were immigrant converts to that faith from 
 Southern India. They were in fact Tamils. The same 
 authority states that Ceylon Mohammedans generally admit 
 Beruwala to be the first of all their settlements, dating frcmi 
 about the year 1350. " They consisted largely of a rough-and- 
 ready set of bold Tamil converts, determined to make them- 
 selves comfortable by the methods usual among unscrupulous 
 adventurers. Having clean-shaven heads and straggling
 
 I50 Till'; iu)()K oi" (■l•:^■LON 
 
 Coast Line beards; wcariiii^ a costume wliicli was not wItoIK' I ainil, nor 
 yvX Arabic or African c\cii in part; speaking- a low 'lamil 
 interlarded with Arabic exprc-ssions ; .slaughtering- cattle with 
 their own hands and eatino- them ; i;i\cn to predatory habits, 
 and practising alter their own lasliion the rites of the M(jham- 
 medan faith they must indeed have struck the vSinhalesc at 
 first as a strange people deserving- of the epithet ' barbarians.' " 
 Giving due weight to the cumulative evidence derived from a 
 consideration of their social customs, physical features and lan- 
 guage, it is considered that this large community in Ceylon, number- 
 ing upwards of 200,000, are not of Arab but of Tamil descent.* 
 
 This historical reference to the Moors interests us at this 
 point, not only because the race still flourishes at its original 
 settlement, but because as we proceed further south we shall 
 also meet with them in increasing numbers. They are always 
 keen traders and especially busy in the bazaars, where their 
 little stores display a surprising variety of goods from Bir- 
 mingham as well as those of local manufacture. 
 
 Aiutgama Alutgama (38m. 28c.). — Alutgama station serves a popu- 
 
 lous district. It will be seen from plate 235 that it has 
 considerable accommodation both for goods and passengers, 
 including a refreshment room. The products of the district 
 despatched by rail arc considerable and include about 250 tons 
 of plumbago, 75 tons of tea, 15 tons of coral lime and 25 tons 
 of arrack monthly. We are, however, more interested in the 
 
 Bcntota circumstancc that Alutgama is the station for Bentota, a village 
 blest with such beautiful surroundings that it has always been 
 in favour as a quiet honeymoon resort. The rest-house is one 
 of the coolest on the coast ; it is spacious, salubrious and 
 prettily situated on a point of the beach where the Bentota 
 River forms its junction with the sea. The opportunities for 
 quiet seclusion, a table w^ell supplied with all the luxuries of 
 the province, including oysters, for which the place has a local 
 renown, and the exquisite scener}' of the district attract many 
 visitors. The crowded market and village bazaar which is 
 seen in our plate is near the railway station. The road scenery 
 is especially beautiful as may be gathered from plate 2^^^^, which 
 shows how the bread-fruit trees here flourish amongst the 
 palms. But the great attraction of the place to the visitor 
 is the river, illustrated by plates 236 to 240. Boats may be 
 hired quite close to the rest-house, which is situated near the 
 railwav bridge seen in plate 237. It is best to engage a double- 
 canoe with platform. On this deck comfortable seats, or even 
 chairs, can be placed, and if an early start is made, before the 
 
 * See "The Ethnology of the Moors of Ceylon " by the Hon. P. Ranianatban in 
 the Joarnal of the CeylonRranch of the Koyal Asiatic Society. \'ol. X., No. 36,
 
 ;3D. ALUTGAMA STATION. 
 
 2J7. UtNTOTA KlVtH. 
 
 330. FISHING. 8ENT0TA RIVER. 
 
 34a riSHiNa ointota rivir.
 
 241. ANCIENT DOOR-FRAME OF GRANITE.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLOX 153 
 
 sun's rays become very powerful, a trip of some three or four coast Line 
 miles up the river will be found to be a delightful experience. j!^„t^ta nvct 
 The banks are densely clothed with the most beautiful of 
 tropical flora ; but there are also human objects of interest, and 
 we shall not go far before we observe tawny little maidens 
 with large black eyes wading near the banks. They appear to 
 be intently gazing into the water, with their right hands ex- 
 tended and motionless. Closer inspection shows that thev each 
 have an ekel, which is a thin reed about three feet long like 
 a bristle of whalebone ; at the end a noose is attached made 
 from fibre of the plantain leaf. They are prawn fishing; and 
 with the noose they tickle the feeler of the prawn, who whips 
 round and is held near the eye. It is the prettiest and most 
 dainty of the many curious methods of fishing in Cevlon. 
 Another primitive way of taking fish is illustrated in plate 240. 
 Here fishermen have laid their nets from place to place and 
 are now engaged in frightening the fish into them bv means 
 of long ropes fringed with leaves from the cocoanut tree. At 
 night they lay some hundreds of yards of this rope along the 
 bottom and early in the morning, from two canoes placed at 
 a distance from one another, they haul it up, this causing the 
 leaves to wave in the water and frighten the fish into the nets. 
 Farther up the river will be noticed the fish kraals or traps 
 (Plate 239). It is very amusing to watch the fishermen diving 
 down into the traps and bringing up fish. Here is also the 
 merchant who appears on the scene in his little outrigger to 
 purchase the haul. 
 
 We have before observed that the tide is so slight as hardlv 
 to affect the height of the rivers, but nevertheless the water is 
 rendered brackish for about two miles. 
 
 Rentota lays claim to several of the most ancient Buddhist 
 Wihares in Ceylon. One of these, the Galapata, is situated Aniujuitits 
 on the south banks about three miles up the river, and should 
 be visited by the tourist. It contains some interesting relics 
 of early times, amongst them a stone door or window frame, 
 said to date from the reign of King Dutthagamini, n.c. 161. 
 The carved scrollwork upon it is the finest of the kind that 
 I have met with. I found it lying upon the ground, and 
 almost buried by ddhris of rough stones. With some diiTicultv 
 most of them were removed, and T obtained the photograph 
 (Plate 241). 
 
 IxDiHi \\.\ (41m. 54c.). — This is the latest railway station induru»a 
 opened on the coast line. It serves a population of about 
 3,000, who are mostly cultivators of cocoanuts, paddy, areca 
 nuts, plantains, and cinnamon. There arc no special attrac-- 
 tions for visitors.
 
 154 THE ROOK OF CKYLOX 
 
 ^""■''' '-'"*-■ KoscoDA (45111. j(jc.). At Kosooda wc alii^lit ujx)!! a 
 
 Kosgoda i)l;itt()nii adorned with nowciiiii; slirulxs and plants oi bcautilui 
 
 loliaiic. 'J'hc villaj^-c and its ncii^-hbourin^ hamlets contain a 
 poptilalion of about iJ,ooo, spread over an area of thirty 
 square miles. There is no special accommodation for travellers 
 at or near the station, but at Urag'asmanhandiya, three and 
 three-quarter miles inland, there is a Clovernment rest-house, 
 where two bedrooms and food supplies may be found if 
 previous notice is s^iven to the rest-house keeper. Hackeries, 
 single and double bullock-carts, and horse carriages can be 
 hired at Kosgoda. 
 
 To the west of the \illage the land is charmingly undulated, 
 and exhibits a beautiful panorama of hills interspersed with 
 paddy fields. In this direction, at about the third mile, is 
 Uragasmanhandiya, for some years the \'olunteer Camp of 
 Exercise. The site was chosen by the late Colonel Clarke 
 on account of its combined features of a suitable parade and 
 training- ground and picturesque surroundings. 
 
 There are many traces of ancient civilisation in the neigh- 
 bourhood, among them the ruins of an ancient W'alauwa, 
 dating from the year 1600, besides about a dozen other old 
 W^alauwas. The present inhabitants are mostly Sinhalese 
 and of the Salagama caste. 
 Local products Cocoanuts, bread fruit, areca nuts, betel, pepper, cinna- 
 
 mon, jak, citronella, and rubber are all cultivated here. Copra 
 to the amount of about 250 tons, cinnamon 100 tons, coir 
 yarn 200 tons, plumbago 60 tons, and arrack 40 tons per 
 annum are despatched by rail. 
 Manufactures The manufactures of Kosgoda include basket-making, lace, 
 
 silver and brass work, knives, carts, skilfully carved furniture, 
 bricks, earthenware, copra, cocoanut oil, coir yarn, coir ropes, 
 various products from the kitul palm, ekel and coir brooms, 
 citronella oil, cinnamon oil, and native medicines. 
 
 From the above account it will be apparent that the visitor 
 who desires acquaintance with Sinhalese life and pursuits in 
 their most unsophisticated state should take advantage of the 
 opportunities offered by Kosgoda. 
 
 Baiapitiya Balapitiva (49m. 63c.). — The railway station of Balapiti\a 
 
 serves a local population of about i,ooo. For the visitor 
 staying at Bentota or Ambalangoda on account of sport or for 
 the sake of beautiful scenery, it also provides facilities for 
 exploring the shores and islands of the extensive lagoon that 
 lies at its feet. This grand stretch of water, flanked by 
 mountain scenery and dotted with a hundred islets, ranks 
 verv high amongst the many natural l)eautics of the southern 
 province. It is but three miles from Ambalangoda and eleven
 
 
 I SE CHILDREN, SOUTH-' 
 
 243. KOSGODA STATION. 
 
 244. BATHINO PLACE, AMBALANOOOA.
 
 247. COAST AT AMBALANGODA. 
 
 248. COAST NEAR DODANDUWA
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 157 
 
 from Bentota, and, thanks to the railway, is so easy of access Coast Line 
 that it should be visited by all tourists who stay at the rest- 
 houses of those places. 
 
 A.MI3ALANGODA (S-Hl. 62c.). — Ainbalangodu inxites the Ambalanjtoda 
 
 European resident in Ceylon and the visitor alike as a pleasant 
 seaside place where good accommodation and excellent food 
 can be obtained, and where the rare luxury of bathing in the 
 open sea can be enjoyed in perfect security. Our illustration 
 (Plate 245) portrays the road that leads to the rest-house. 
 This hostelry is one of the most comfortable of its kind and 
 possesses eight bedrooms. The spacious enclosure surround- Sea bathing 
 ing slopes to the coast, where a natural barrier of rocks at 
 once protects the bather from the attacks of sharks and pre- 
 vents him from being carried out to sea by dangerous currents. 
 Our illustration (Plate 247) will give the reader some idea of 
 the natural features of the bath and its surroundings. 
 
 The visitor will find other attractions, too, at Ambalangoda, Local products 
 which with the surrounding hamlets has a population of 25,000 
 people, engaged mostly in agricultural pursuits. Cocoanuts, 
 tea, paddy, cinnamon and areca nuts are the chief products. 
 The produce despatched by rail amounts to about 600 tons a 
 month. There is a Maha Wihare (Plate 246) quite near the M^iha uihare 
 railway station, which is worthy of attention. Some sport in 
 snipe and teal is available from September to December upon 
 the paddy fields, far inland, and near the village upon the 
 beautiful lagoon about six hundred acres in extent. 
 
 In the rest-house grounds may be seen a relic of the Dutch 
 occupation of Ambalangoda. It was probably a court-house 
 and might still do duty as such ; but nowadays the magisterial 
 work of this district is carried on at Balapitiya. 
 
 HiKKADiWA (60m. 14c.). — This station serves a popula- iiikkaduua 
 tion of about 4,000, engaged in the cultivation of cocoanuts, 
 areca nuts, tea, paddy and cinnamon ; and in the preparation 
 of coral lime, plumbago mining, and the manufacture ot 
 coir yarn, lace, drum frames, and metal bowls used by 
 Buddhist monks. The despatch of products by rail amounts 
 to upwards of 60 tons a month, most of which is plumbago 
 and coral lime. 
 
 DoDANDLWA (64m. i^c). — Dodanduwa is famous for its Dodanduwa 
 plumbago and coir rope. It supplies annually about i,ooo 
 tons of the former and 300 tons of the latter. It possesses an 
 asset of natural beauty in Ratgama Lake, which is quite ilose 
 to the station. In the fields bordering this lake snipe shooting 
 is verv srood durintr the latter months of the vear.
 
 is8 
 
 TlWi HOOK Ol' ( i;\ LOX 
 
 Coust Line 
 
 (lintota 
 
 Qalle 
 
 Picturesque 
 features 
 
 About six miks west ol Doflaiuluua lies liaddcf^ama, 
 I'cuowiK'd as the oldest mission station of the Hnj^-Hsh 
 Church. The Church Missionary Society lias the honour of 
 having- made the first elTort here, and the resuUs have been 
 most encouragini;-. 
 
 (liNTOiA (()Sm. jSc.). (iintota is a vilhige of about 2,500 
 inhabitants, most of whom are occupied in cocoanut planting 
 and the manufacture of coir rope from the fibre of the cocoanut 
 husk. Its interest to the visitor, however, centres in the lovely 
 scenery of the Ginganga, which here flows into the sea. The 
 source of this river is near Adam's Peak. In its course, which 
 is fifty-nine miles long-, it drains no less than four hundred 
 square miles of land. 
 
 Galle (71m. 68c.). — Galle, the chief town of the Southern 
 Province and seat of provincial government, claims consider- 
 able attention, combining as it does a wealth of historical 
 interest with great natural advantages. For upwards of a 
 thousand years before Colombo assumed any degree of mer- 
 cantile Importance, Galle was known to the eastern world as 
 a famous emporium. The places hitherto visited by us have 
 for the most part greatly changed in character during the last 
 fifty years, and the descriptions of them by earlier writers 
 would not hold good to-day. But this venerable port of the 
 south is a striking exception, and the visitor will find very 
 little at variance with Sir Emerson Tennent's account, published 
 in the middle of the century. 
 
 "No traveller fresh from Europe," says Tennent, "will 
 ever part with the impression left by his first gaze upon 
 tropical scenery as it is displayed in the bay and the wooded 
 hills that encircle it ; for, although Galle is surpassed both in 
 grandeur and beauty by places afterwards seen in the island, 
 still the feeling of admiration and wonder called forth by its 
 loveliness remains vivid and unimpaired. If, as is frequently 
 the case, the ship approaches the land at daybreak, the view 
 recalls, but in an intensified degree, the emotions excited in 
 childhood by the slow rising of the curtain in a darkened 
 theatre to disclose some magical triumph of the painter's fancy, 
 in all the luxury of colouring and all the glory of light. The 
 sea, blue as sapphire, breaks upon the fortified rocks which 
 form the entrance to the harbour ; the headlands are bright 
 with verdure ; and the yellow strand is shaded by palm trees 
 that incline towards the sea, and bend their crowns above the 
 water. The shore is gemmed with flowers, the hills behind 
 are draped with forests of perennial green ; and far in the 
 distance rises the zone of purple hills, above which towers the 
 sacred mountain of Adam's Peak.
 
 THE BOOK OF Cm'LOX i6i 
 
 " But the interest of the phue is not confined to the mere Coast Line 
 loveliness of its scenery. Galle is by far the most venerable cuiu 
 emporium of foreign trade now existing in the universe ; it 
 was the resort of merchant ships at the earliest dawn of com- 
 merce, and it is destined to be the centre to which will here- 
 after converge all the rays of navigation, intersecting the Indian 
 Ocean, and connecting the races of Europe and Asia." This 
 prophecy, however, has been falsified by the rise of Colombo, 
 whose artificial harbour has already enabled it to usurp the 
 position marked out for its older ri\al. 
 
 Tennent's account ot tlie commercial inii)(jrtance of Cialle Gatu in 
 
 , • • c 1 • t i •• /■ 11 4.U • I' 1 u ' ancient tim:s 
 
 \\\ earlv times is ot great interest : (jalle was the Kalah 
 at which the Arabians in the reign of Haroun Alraschid met 
 the junks of the Chinese, and brought back gems, silks, and 
 spices from Serendib to Bassora. The Sabieans, centuries 
 before, included Ceylon in the rich trade which they prosecuted 
 with India, and Galle was probably the furthest point eastward 
 ever reached by the Persians, by the Greeks of the Lower 
 Empire, by the Romans, and by the Egyptian mariners of 
 Berenice, under the Ptolemies. But an interest deeper still 
 attaches to this portion of Ceylon, inasmuch as it seems more 
 than probable that the long-sought locality of Tarshish may 
 be found to be identical with that of Point de Galle. 
 
 " A careful perusal of the Scripture narrative suggests the r.inhish 
 conclusion that there were two places at least to which the 
 Phfi'nicians traded, each of which bore the name of Tarshish : 
 one to the north-west, whence they brought tin, iron, and 
 lead; and another to the east, which supplied them with ivory 
 and gold. Bochart was not the first who rejected the idea of 
 the latter being situated at the mouth of Guadalquiver, and 
 intimated that it must be sought for in the direction of India; 
 but he was the first who conjectured that Ophir was Kou- 
 dramalie, on the north-west of Ceylon, and that the Eastern 
 Tarshish must have been somewhere in the vicinity of Cape 
 Comorin. His geiural inference was correct and irresistible 
 from the tenor of the sacred writings; but from want of 
 topographical knowledge, Boihart was in error as to the 
 actual localities, (iold is not to be found at Koudramalie ; and 
 Comorin, being neither an island nor a place of trade, does 
 not correspond to the requirements of Tarshish. Subsequent 
 investigation has served to establish the (laim of Malacca to 
 be the golden land of Solomon, and Tarshish, which lay in 
 the track between the .Arabian Gulf and Ophir, is recognisable 
 in the great emporium of Ceylon. The shi|)s intended for the 
 voyage were built by Solomon at ' I^zion-gcbcr on the shores 
 of the Red Sea,' the rowers coasted along the shores of Arabia 
 and the Persian Gulf, headed by an east wind. 
 I,
 
 1 6. 
 
 THK BOOK OI' (•I•;^■LON 
 
 Coast Line 
 
 Galle's identity 
 with Tiuslush 
 
 Galle in 
 modern tiuies 
 
 Galle' s 
 
 /lourishing 
 period 
 
 Tarshish, the port for \\hi( h they were l^ound, would 
 appear to have been situated in an island, governed by kings, 
 and carrying on an extensive foreign trade. The voyage 
 occupied three years in going and returning from the Red Sea, 
 and the cargoes brought home to Ezion-geber consisted of gold 
 and silver, ivory, apes, and peacocks. Guld could have been 
 shipped at Cialle from the vessels which brought it from Ophir; 
 silver spread into plates, which is particularised by Jeremiah 
 as an export of Tarshish, is one of the substances on which 
 the sacred books of the Singhalese are even now inscribed ; 
 ivory is found in Ceylon, and must have been both abundant 
 and full grown there before the discovery of gunpowder led 
 to the wanton destruction of elephants ; apes are indigenous 
 to the island, and peafoivl are found there in numbers. It is 
 very remarkable, too, that the terms by which these articles 
 are designated in the Hebrew Scriptures are identical with 
 the Tamil names, by which some of them are called in Ceylon 
 to the present day : thus tukeyim, which is rendered ' pea- 
 cocks ' in one version, may be recognised in tokei, the modern 
 name for these birds; kapi, 'apes,' is the same in both 
 languages, and the Sanskrit ihhd, 'ivory,' is identical with 
 the Tamil iham. 
 
 "Thus by geographical position, by indigenous productions, 
 and by the fact of its having been from time immemorial the 
 resort of merchant ships from Egypt, Arabia, and Persia on 
 the one side, and India, Java, and China on the other, Galle 
 seems to present a combination of every particular essential 
 to determine the problem so long undecided in biblical dia- 
 lectics, and thus to present data for inferring its identity with 
 the Tarshish of the sacred historians, the great eastern mart 
 so long frequented by the ships of Tyre and Judea." 
 
 In modern times Galle has been the mart first of Portugal 
 and afterwards of Holland. The extensive fort constructed by 
 the Dutch is still one of the chief features of the place and 
 encloses the modern town. .Although dismantled, few portions 
 of it have been destroyed, and the remains add greatly to the 
 picturesque character of the landscape. Amongst a large 
 number of interesting remains of the Dutch period are the 
 gateway of the fortress, the present entrance from the harbour, 
 and the Dutch church, both of which we illustrate. A steep 
 and shady street known as Old Gate Street ascends to the 
 principal part of the town. 
 
 The most flourishing period of Galle during the British 
 occupation was that immediately preceding the construction 
 of the harbour at Colombo. Then Galle obtained a large share 
 of the modern steamship trade. Its harbour was always 
 regarded as dangerous, owing to the rocks and currents about
 
 251. DUTCH GATEWAY AT GALLE.
 
 252 THE ENGLISH CHURCH, GALLE. 
 
 253. THE DUTCH CHURCH, GALLE.
 
 Till': liooK oi" c"i:\LO.\ 
 
 165 
 
 the mouth; I)ut it was preferred to the open roadstead of ^oast Line 
 Colombo, and the 1*. tK: O. and other important companies g<i/;c- 
 made use of it. Passengers for Colomljo were landed at Cialle, 
 and a coach service provided them witli the means of reaching- 
 their destination. 
 
 Besides the trade that follows on shipping, the town was 
 alive with such business as travellers bring. The local manu- 
 facturers of jewellery and tortoiscshell ornaments, for which 
 Galle has always been famous, met the strangers on arrival 
 and did a thriving business. In fact, Galle was a miniature vicissUmUs 
 of what Colombo is to-day. But the new harbour of Colombo 
 sealed its fate. The manufacturers now send their wares to 
 Colombo, and the merchants have to a great extent migrated 
 thither. The prosperity of Galle has therefore suffered a 
 serious check; its fine hotel knows no "passenger days," its 
 bazaars are quiet and its streets have lost their whilom busy 
 aspect. Nevertheless, it is the seat of administration of a 
 large, populous and thriving province, and must always remain 
 a place of considerable importance. Its share of commerce Consolations 
 will probably increase as culti\ation and mining still further 
 extend. It is a great centre of the cocoanut industry, which 
 has in recent years developed tt) a remarkable degree and is 
 likclv still further to increase. 
 
 The visitor will be impressed with the cleanliness no kss sintis and 
 than the picturesque character of the streets, which arc shaded '""'''"'^^ 
 by Suriya trees. The buildings, as will be seen from our photo- 
 graphs, are substantial and well-kept, some of the houses of 
 the wealthier residents being admirably planned for coolness. 
 Lighthouse Street contains the humbler dwellings ; but even 
 here the houses are spacious, and each has along the entire 
 front a deep and shady verandah supported on pillars. This 
 street probably presented the same appearance during the 
 presence of the Dutch. The luiglish Church of .\II .Siiints', Chunhts 
 visible in our photograph of Church Street, is the finest in 
 Ceylon, both in its architectural features and the manner of 
 its building. 
 
 The old Dutch Church, i)a\cd with tombstones and hung 
 with mural monuments of the seventeenth and eighteenth 
 centuries, has now an antiquarian interest. It is still used 
 by the Presbyterian section of the inhabitants, and is well 
 worth the attention of the \isitor as an excellent speiinien of 
 the places of worship which the Dutch erected wherever tliey 
 formed a settlement. Churches and forts are the abiding 
 evidences of the solid determination of the Dutch to remain 
 in Cevl(Mi. 
 
 Thev had (^oine to stay, and conse(|uently spai'ed no cost 
 or trouble to make their i)uil(lings of a permanent character.
 
 1 66 
 
 tup: 1U)()K ()]' CKVLON 
 
 Coast Line The Hritish colonists, on the olhcr liand, make Ceylon their 
 temporary home, and seldom intend to die there : consequently 
 they do not display great enthusiasm for permanent institu- 
 tions ; indeed, a whole century has passed without any attempt 
 to build a cathedral worthy of the name, and outside Galle 
 there is scarcely a beautiful English church in the island. 
 
 Galle possesses a municipal constitution ; the area within 
 the municipal limits is about seven square miles, with a 
 population of 37,000. The New Oriental Hotel, having 
 been built when Galle was the principal port of call between 
 Aden, the Far East and Australasia, possesses accommoda- 
 tion almost in excess of the present needs of travellers. 
 Pleasant driving excursions can be made among the environs 
 of Galle, which are always and everywhere delightful and 
 interesting. The traveller will find facilities of every kind in 
 the way of conveyances and boats, while banks, social clubs, 
 a golf club, and other institutions usual in large towns are at 
 hand. 
 
 Taipe Talpe (78m. 23c.). — Talpe railway station has been estab- 
 
 lished chiefly for goods traffic in the products of the cocoanut. 
 It is about two miles from the village, which has a population 
 of about 1,000. There is no rest-house or hotel. 
 
 Ahangama Ahaxg.\ma (84m. 24c.). — Ahangama has about 2,000 inhabi- 
 
 tants engaged in cultivation of tea, cocoanuts, palmyra, paddy, 
 betel, arecas, pepper, plantains, cinnamon and citronella. Cog- 
 gala Lake, about five square miles in extent, is two miles 
 distant from the station. Sport, particularly snipe and wild 
 boar, may be obtained in the neighbourhood. 
 
 Weligama Weligama (89m. 58c.). — WV^ligama is one of the many 
 
 interesting spots on the south coast where the currents have 
 scooped the shore into bays of exquisite beauty. Primitive 
 nature in her most delightful moods here greets the traveller, 
 who, after his recent experience of Galle, with all its drowsy 
 luxury of a later stage of civilisation, cannot fail to be struck 
 by the fact that Ceylon is a land of contrasts. Indeed it is 
 one of the charms of travel in this fascinating land that so 
 short a distance transports us from the up-to-date world to 
 the manners, customs and surroundings of past centuries, and 
 provides that change of thought and scene which induce the 
 mental and physical benefits which are to most of us the end 
 and object of our travel. There is a comfortable rest-house 
 three-quarters of a mile from the station, pleasantly situated 
 so as to command a good view of the bay. Good food and 
 accommodation, boats, hackeries and attendants are always 
 available. Excellent sport in fishing is available. There are
 
 255. STATUE OF KUSHTA RAJAH AT WELIGAMA.
 
 THI-: BOOK ()|- ( i;\l.()\ 169 
 
 many objects of interest which w ill be pointed out by the vil- Coa^t Line 
 lagers, amongst them at Rasamukkanda near the north end Kmhia Rajah 
 of the bay are the ruins of an ancient temple haunted by the 
 spirits of its priests, who are believed to be omnipresent and 
 worshipped by cobras. One of the most interestinj^^ traditions of 
 the place is concerninfj the statue of Kushta Rajah (Plate 255), 
 the leper king who w^as advised that if he visited a venerated 
 Buddhist shrine at Weligama he would be cured of his afflic- 
 tion. The legend as related by the chief priest at Weligama 
 is as follows : — A Sinhalese king became afflicted with a loath- 
 some disease which almost deprived him of human appearance. 
 His people resorted to sacrifices in the hope of appeasing the 
 angry demon who was supposed to be the author of the king's 
 sufferings. I^ut the Rajah objected to the diabolical ci-remonies 
 performed on his behalf, and with due humility made offerings 
 at the shrine of Buddha. lie then fell into a trance, during 
 which a vision represented to him a large expanse of water 
 bordered by trees of a rare kind, such as he had ne\er before 
 seen ; for instead of branches spreading from the trunks in 
 various directions their tops appeared crowned with tufts of 
 feathery leaves. (The cocoanut is supposed to have been 
 unknown in Ceylon at this period.) Deeply impressed by this 
 vision, the Rajah renewed his devotions, when a cobra, the 
 sacred snake of Buddhism, appeared to him and thrice lapped 
 water from his drinking vessel. He then slept again, and his 
 original vision recurred, accompanied this time by the father 
 of l^uddha, who thus accosted him : " l-Vom ignorance of the 
 sacredness of the ground over which the (lod's favourite tree 
 casts its honoured shade, thou once didst omit the usual respect 
 due to it from all his creatures. Its deeply pointed leaf dis- 
 tinguishes it above all other trees as sacred to Buddha; and, 
 under another tree of the same heavenly character, thou now 
 liest a leprous mass, which disease, at the great Deity's 
 command, the impurity of the red water within the large and 
 small rivers of thy body has brought upon thee. But since 
 the sacred and kind snake, the shelterer of the Ciod Buddha 
 when on earth, has thrice partaken of thy drink, thou wilt 
 dcrixc health and long life 1)\- obeying the high commands 
 \\hi(-]i I now bear thee. In that direction [pointing to the 
 southward] lies thy remedy. One hundred hours' journey will 
 bring thee to those trees, which thou shalt see in reality, and 
 taste their fruits to thy benefit ; but as on the top only they 
 are produced, by fire only can they be obtained. The inside, 
 of tr.insparent liquid, and of innocent pulp, must be thy sole 
 diet, till thrice the Great Moon (Maha Ihimhih) shall have 
 given and refused her light:— at the expiration of that time, 
 disease will leave thee, and thou wilt be clean again."
 
 I70 
 
 'II1I-; I'.ooK oi-" (•i;\'Lf)\ 
 
 Coast Line 
 
 Kushlit Rajiili 
 
 Local products 
 
 The one hundred hours' journey having been miraculously 
 performed, for it had been accomj^lished without fatigue either 
 to himself or attendants, the long and anxiously anticipated 
 view of that boundless expanse of blue water, and on its 
 margin immense groves of trees, with crests of leaves (which 
 he then for the first time perceived to be large fronds), 
 gratified his astonished and delighted sight, as his visions had 
 foretold. Beneath the fronds, sheltered from the vertical sun, 
 hung large clusters of fruit, much larger than any he had ever 
 seen in his own inland country, and of various colours — green, 
 yellow, and orange, and in some instances approaching to 
 black. 
 
 The novel fruit was opened and eaten. The liquid within 
 the nuts was sweet and delicious, while the fleshy part was 
 found to be cool and grateful food. The leprosy left the Rajah, 
 and in commemoration of the event he carved the gigantic 
 figure of himself which is now regarded as one of the most 
 curious relics of antiquity in Ceylon.* 
 
 The population of Weligama is about 10,000. Its products 
 are cocoanuts, areca nuts, cinnamon, citronclla and plumbago. 
 Lace and coir rope are its manufactures. 
 
 Kamburu- 
 gamua 
 
 Kamburugamua (951T1. 4c.). — Kamburugamua railway 
 station serves the scattered villages which lie midway between 
 Weligama and Matara, having a population of about 6,000. 
 There are no facilities or accommodation beyond the mere 
 platform of the station, nor is there need for them as Matara 
 is only three miles distant. The chief products are cocoanuts, 
 citronella and vegetables. In some months of the year no less 
 than ten tons of pumpkins are despatched by rail to various 
 markets. Coir yarn and lace are manufactured in every 
 village. There is very good snipe shooting in the neighbour- 
 hood. 
 
 Matara Matara (98m. 36c.). — Matara, the present terminus of the 
 
 coast line, is a beautiful and interesting town of about 20,000 
 inhabitants, lying at the mouth of the Xil-ganga, or Blue 
 River, which flows into the sea within four miles of Dondra 
 Head, the southernmost point of the island. Apart from the 
 beauty of the river, which like all others in Ceylon is bordered 
 on either bank with the richest vegetation, the chief points of 
 interest in Matara are connected with Dutch antiquities. Of 
 these a short account only must suffice. 
 
 There are two forts and an old Dutch Church still in good 
 preservation to testify to the importance with which Matara 
 
 * From the account of Mr. J. W. Bennett, of the Ceylon Civil Service, published 
 in 1843.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 173 
 
 was regarded in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Coast Line 
 The smaller of the forts is of the well-known star formation, yi'it'im 
 It was built by Governor \'an Eck in 1763. The gateway is T'c iUu jort 
 in particularly good preservation, and although the arms above 
 the door are car\cd in wood every detail is still perfect. At 
 the present time this star fort serves as the residence of the 
 officer of the Public Works for the Matara district. 
 
 The larger fort consists of extensive stone and coral works ' '"■ """'/'' 
 facing the sea and extending inwards on the south till they 
 meet the river, whic-h forms part of the defences. Within the 
 enclosure are most of the official buildings of the place, includ- 
 ing the Courts, the Kachrlicri, and the residence of the 
 Assistant Government Agent. To these buildings must be 
 added the rest-house, which is important to travellers and 
 will be found very comfortable. The appearance of the fort, 
 from within, is distinctly park-like and picturesque owing to 
 the beautiful trees which have been introduced in recent years. 
 These afford delightful shade and render a stroll beneath them 
 pleasant when the sun does not permit of walking in the open. 
 
 The land around Matara is extremely fertile and no place 
 could be more abundantly supplied with food, especially fish, 
 the variety of which is very large. The neighbourhood affords 
 most delightful walks and drives through the finest a\enues of 
 umbrageous trees to be met with in Ceylon. Nothing sur- 
 prises the visitor more than this feature of complete shade upon 
 the roads of the extreme south of the island, and in no part 
 is it more grateful than upon the road from Matara to Tan- 
 galla, whither we shall presently proceed. 
 
 Our picture of the bathing-place on the banks of the Nil- ^''•s'"'S'i 
 ganga possesses one peculiarity which may seem curious to 
 the European who is not acquainted with tropical rivers — the 
 fence of large stakes constructed to keep out the crocodiles. 
 Without this, bathing would ))c unsafe and would probably 
 be indulged in at the cost of many a human life. This photo- 
 graph also presents a typical scene in the background from 
 which some idea may be gathered of the recreation grounds 
 of a southern town in Ceylon. Here golf and cricket claim 
 their votaries as in larger places, aiul facilitii's for enjoving 
 these games are not wanting. 
 
 The local accommodation for travellers is considerable. ^"«''' . . 
 Ladies will nnd a well-lunnshed waiting-room at the railway 
 station. The government rest-house is ten minutes' dri\e from 
 the station ; it has seven good bedrooms and spacious dining- 
 hall and verandahs. Horse carriages can be obtained at the 
 rate of one rupee for the iirst hour and twenty-five cents an 
 hour for subsequent time; and bullock hackeries can be 
 obtained at twcnt \-ri\c cents an hour. The chief local pro-
 
 174 
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Coast Line 
 
 Local products 
 
 Maniifiicluics 
 
 Sport 
 
 Tangalla 
 
 Citronella 
 
 Dondra Head 
 
 ducts arc cocoanuts, paddy, betel, arccas, kurrakan, pepper, 
 plantains, cinnamon and citronella. The quantities despatched 
 by rail monthly are approximately : lOO tons copperah, 150 tons 
 cocoanut oil, 150 tons coir yarn, 75 tons citronella oil, 50 tons 
 poonac, 75 tons vegetables. 
 
 The local manufactures are baskets, lace, jewellery, coir 
 and furniture. 
 
 Matara being an " assistant government agency " is fur- 
 nished with the courts, offices and residences of the following 
 district officers : Assistant Government Agent, District Judge, 
 Police Magistrate and District Engineer. 
 
 Most of the Christian sects are represented amongst the 
 churches and schools — Anglican, Roman Catholic, W'eslcyan 
 and Presbyterian. 
 
 Sport obtainable includes snipe, hare, birds in great variety 
 and crocodiles. 
 
 The visitor who goes to Matara should allow time for an 
 excursion to the attractive village of Tangalla, twenty miles 
 farther along the coast. The drive thither is full of interest 
 and there is a rest-house prettily situated in a charming bay. 
 It is, however, advisable to give notice to the rest-house keeper 
 in advance, in order that he may be prepared with food supplies. 
 A mail coach runs daily from Matara in which the box seats 
 should be engaged. 
 
 No sooner do we get out of the town than the perfume of 
 citronella invites our attention to an industry of which only 
 bare mention has hitherto been made. 
 
 Citronella grows without much care or attention on the 
 poorest land, and since there is a large demand for the essential 
 oil of this grass, for use in perfumery, it has answered the 
 purpose of the agriculturists between IVlatara and Tangalla to 
 spread its cultivation over about twenty thousand acres of 
 land which would otherwise have lain waste. For many vears 
 a high price was obtained for the oil, but latterly it has fallen 
 so low as to render the cultivation almost unprofitable. The 
 wily cultivator sought to meet his misfortune by adulteration ; 
 but this only brought the Ceylon product into disrepute. 
 Judging, however, from the number of distilleries which we 
 s 'c by the roadside, we do not doubt but that the grower of 
 citronella still meets with some reward for his enterprise. 
 
 At the fourth mile of our coach journey we arrive at the 
 southern extremity of Ceylon — Dondra Head. A visit to the 
 lighthouse is well repaid by the beautiful scenery of the coast ; 
 but the chief attraction is to be found in the very ancient ruins 
 which are spread over a considerable area. Dondra has been 
 held sacred by both Hindus and Buddhists from very early 
 times. In the Portuguese period (sixteenth century) it was
 
 258. DUTCH FORT AT MATARA.
 
 THE BOOK oi- (•I•:^■IX)^' 177 
 
 the most renowned place of pili,'^rimage in Ceylon. From the Coast Line 
 sea the temple had the appearance of a city. 'Jhe pagoda was v„tuiui lUaJ 
 richly decorated and roofed with g^ilded copper. But this 
 magnificence only excited the rapacity of the ruthless Portu- 
 guese, who tore down its thousands of statues and demolished 
 its colonnades. A finely carved stone doorway and a large 
 number of handsome columns of granite are all that now 
 remain. 
 
 There is still an annual pilgrimage made to this sacred Doiuira fair 
 place ; but it is now commonly known as Dondra fair, and 
 partakes of the nature of a holiday. A large camp is formed 
 by the erection of temporary sheds roofed with the leaves of 
 the talipot palm ; and here thousands of natives assemble, 
 making day and night hideous by the blowing of c-hank shells 
 and the beating of tom-toms. The visitor who arrives at the 
 time of this fair will be amused at the sight of such strange 
 crowds and the weird ceremonies which they perform, but will 
 probably be glad to escape from the fiendish music at tlu' 
 earliest moment. 
 
 The drive to Tangalla is chiefly interesting for the lovely Tangaiia 
 seascapes which burst upon the gaze at frequent intervals. 
 Our photograph fairly represents the general character of this 
 part of the south coast. The coves and bays are separated by 
 precipitous headlands, which are always well covered with 
 vegetation and crowned with beautiful palms. 
 
 Tangalla itself gives its name to one of the finest bays in 
 Ceylon, the distance between the headlands being four miles. 
 It has the appearance of a magnificent harbour, being so well 
 protected that the water is always calm and no surf breaks 
 upon the shore, but in fact it is very dangerous for shipping, 
 owint'' to its numerous coral reels and saiull);inl<s.
 
 THE KELANI VALLEY. 
 
 Kelani Valley Where in olden times the Kandyan kings were wont to 
 The olden desccnd from their mountain fastnesses and give battle to the 
 
 '""" European invader a narrow-gauge railway now creeps along 
 
 a romantic and beautiful valley. In those days travelling 
 facilities were limited to jungle paths and dug-out ferry boats ; 
 cultivation was sparse but nature was bountiful, and among 
 her many gifts was the wild cinnamon which aroused the 
 greed and avarice of the foreigner. For this he fought, and 
 it was here in the valley of the Kelani that the greatest 
 struggles with the Kandyans took place. The country between 
 Colombo and Yatiyantota is full of historical associations, and 
 many legends lend their quota of interest to the rugged land- 
 scape. But the charms of romance have now yielded to the 
 demand of commerce. Where a few years ago the life and 
 occupations of the people were absolutely primitive and tillage 
 was limited to native methods, there are now thirty thousand 
 acres of tea, ten thousand of rubber and a railway. 
 Attractions In spitc of this great extension of the area of cultivation 
 
 of scenery ^^^ q[ means of transport, the attractions of scenery and the 
 
 quaintness of native customs are very little diminished, and 
 the tourist or visitor will not have seen all the best part of 
 Ceylon until he has made the acquaintance of this famous 
 district. Even the soldiers who were engaged in fierce warfare 
 with the Kandyans, and who experienced all the trials and 
 hindrances of marching in a tropical country without roads, 
 were enchanted by the singular beauty of the country and 
 described it in their journals in terms of glowing enthusiasm. 
 The natives The Same fascinating landscape of undulating lowlands and 
 
 lovely river views is there, but the modern traveller finds not 
 only excellent roads, but always a courteous, gentle and con- 
 tented population. In no other district of Ceylon is Sinhalese 
 rural life more full of interest. The primitive methods of the 
 natives in the manufacture of quaint pottery, their curious 
 system of agriculture and the peculiar phases of their social 
 life, are not less interesting than the beautiful country in which 
 they live. 
 
 178
 
 261. THE MANUFACTURE OF POTTERY
 
 'Jin-: iu)C)K oi- ( I-;^ i.()\ i8i 
 
 The railway runs paralUl to tlu: rixer Ijul al a distance oi Kciani \uiicy 
 some miles to the south until Karuwanella is reached ; there- 
 fore he who wishes to sec the river and the \ illaii;:es of Kadu- 
 wella and Hanwella must make a special excursion from 
 Colombo by horse-carriage or motor-car ; or he can take the 
 train to Waga and drive to Hanwella. 
 
 Kaduwella is charmingly situated, and, like almost every Kadu«ciia 
 village of importance in the Kelani \alley, has a delightful 
 rest-house, which is built on a steep red rock almost over- 
 hanging the ri\t'r, and commanding one of man\- delightful 
 vistas where the noble Kelani meanders in and out, and dis- 
 plays its ciu'N ing ])anks, alwaxs covered w ilh the richest foliage. 
 Here one ma\' sit and watch the f|uaint barges and rafts as 
 they pass, laden with produce for Colombo, or groups of 
 natives and cattle crossing all day long l)y tlie ferry close b_\'. 
 And whilst comfortablv reclining in th ■ i hainiing \erandah 
 of this excellent hostelry, with peaceful surroundings and a 
 sense of the most complete luxury and security, one may 
 reflect upon the early days of the l>ritish occupation when 
 Kaduwella was reached onl\- b\' strong and narrow passes, 
 with the \(r\- steep banks of the ri\er to the left, and hills 
 covered with dense jungle to the right, whiU' in front were 
 breastworks which (-ould not be approached sa\c through deep 
 and hollow defiles. 
 
 Here in earlier davs the hostile Kandyans made a stand 
 against the Dutch, cutting off four hundred of their troops, 
 and the British, too, lost mam men near this spot before 
 the natives were linalK' subjugated. 
 
 'riiere is a famous Ca\e-'remplc of ihe Huddhists at c\ne-Tciii(^u 
 Kaduwella, \( i\- picturcscjuely situated under an enormous 
 granite rock in the midst of magnilicent tices. It has a fine 
 pillared hall, the bare rock forming the wall at the back. Tin- 
 usual colossal image of lUiddha is car\cd in the solid granite, 
 and is a i^ood specimen oi its class. 
 
 i>eliind llie rem|)le a magnificent \ iew is to be obtained 
 from the lop oi the cliff o\'er the liilK coLUitr\-. The jungle 
 is thii kl\ inhabited b\ troops ol black monkews. Hocks ol green 
 pairots, huge lizards resembling young crocodiles, and myriads 
 of smaller creatures. Indeed, the zoologist, the botanist, and 
 the artist need go no further for weeks. 
 
 On the right bank of the rixcr, opposite Kaduwx'lla, is a maIwhim 
 plate ol classical interest now know n as W'elgama, but anciently 
 by the more jKxtic name of IMalwana. Three centuries or 
 more ago it was the chosen sanitarium of I'ortuguese (io\ernors 
 and high oiVicials, and was regarded as the most salubrious 
 spot within their reach. Here they dwelt in princely palaces 
 few trai-es of which remain.
 
 THE HOOK OK CKYI.ON 
 
 Kclnni Valle} 
 
 I'ottilY 
 
 Hanwellu 
 
 The liistoric 
 rest-house 
 
 River traffic 
 
 Kivcr scenery 
 
 TIic \ill;iL;('s upon tlic hanks of the ri\'cr arc lamous for 
 their pottery. The visitor will he iiilercsted no less by the 
 quaintness of the ware itself, tlian by the methods of its 
 inanufaeture, which is carried on in open sheds by the wayside. 
 
 The large village of Hanwella is reached at the twenty- 
 hrst mile-post from Colombo. It was a place of considerable 
 consequence in the days of the Kandyan kingdom, and 
 possessed a fort commanding both by land and water the 
 principal route which led from the interior of the island to 
 Colombo. Here the last king of Kandy was defeated by 
 Captain Pollock. Not far from this place was a palace 
 erected for the use of the king when on this his final expedition, 
 and in front of it were placed the stakes on which he intended 
 to impale the captured British. Here many fierce battles were 
 fought against the Kandyans, with the result of much signing 
 of treaties and truces, which were seldom or never adhered to 
 on the part of the natives. The rest-house, as at Kaduwella, 
 commands a beautiful view of the river. Enchanting as every 
 acre of this district is, the river views surpass all in their 
 loveliness. 
 
 Our views Nos. 264, 265 and 267 are taken from the grounds 
 of the rest-house, which occupy the site of the old I-^ort built by 
 the Portuguese about three centuries ago. The stone seats 
 observable in our pictures bear inscriptions recording the visits 
 of members of the British royal family. His Majesty the King 
 was here in 1876. In 1870 Hanwella was visited by the Duke 
 of Edinburgh, and in 1882 by Prince Victor and Prince George, 
 now Prince of Wales. Trees planted by all the Princes wall be 
 seen flourishing in the grounds. Perhaps the most striking 
 feature to many a visitor is the extent of the river traffic carried 
 on bv rafts and such boats as are seen in plates 266 and 286. 
 It is interesting to note the variety of merchandise floating 
 down stream in these curious craft, which includes pottery, 
 building materials, cocoanuts, chests of tea, bamboos, timber 
 trees, and all manner of produce and manufactures that find a 
 market in Colombo, for the stream is swift and the water 
 carriage cheap. Our plate 264 depicts the ferry below which 
 the river takes a sharp bend towards the reach in plate 265. 
 'I he up-river view (Plate 267) is the finest, and is particularly 
 beautiful in the early morning when the Adam's Peak range 
 of mountains is visible in the background ; the broad silvery 
 stream narrowing in distant perspective, the rich borders of 
 foliage that clothe the lofty and receding banks, the foreground 
 clad with verdure and flowers, and the blue haze of distant 
 mountains over all make up a picture that does not easily fade 
 from memory, but which no photograph can adequately 
 represent.
 
 266. A KELANI BARGE AT HANWELLA 
 
 267. VIEW FROM THE REST-HOUSE, HANWELLA
 
 LACE-MAKING AT NUGEGODA. 
 
 269. COTTA
 
 THE HOOK Ol" Ci:\I.()\ 
 
 185 
 
 270. NUGEGODA STATION 
 
 KELAXI \'ALLEV LIM-: ITINERARY 
 
 'riiiC rail\\a\- ilincrar\- from Colombo to \'ati_\ aiitola bfj^ins al Keiani Valley 
 Maradana juiittion. 'I'lic line upon leaving- Colombo traverses ^'"* 
 the i^olf links and runs south until the lirst station, Nut^et^oda, 
 is reached at the sixth niiU'. 
 
 XrciccouA (5m. 5jr. ). Xui^cs^oda is in the (-entrc ot a NufreRoda 
 cluster of well-populated villages of which tlic once I anions 
 principality of Cotta is the chief. The road scenery in the 
 neighbourhood is very charming- as may be gathered from our 
 plate 2(k). Although Cotta was the scat of kings in the cotia 
 fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when the whole country was 
 subdivided into petty states, there are no remains of historical 
 interest to detain the visitor. The chief institutions in the 
 district ai'c the missionar\ and edui ational establishments of 
 the Churt-h Missionary So(icty, w hie h dale iVom the \ear iSiS. 
 
 The manufactures consist ol ])ott(iy and pillow -lace, which 
 the villagers may be seen making in the slia<le ol their palm- 
 thatched verandahs. Both may i)e ])ur( based at surprisingly 
 small prices (Plates 2(11 and JhS). 
 
 The agricultural products are cimiamon, the \arious palms 
 and garden vegetables, tons of which ari' st'nt by rail to the 
 Colombo markets. 
 
 P.WNiiTi nA (icjni. 4<)c.). ranni])iti\a offers no special i'annipiti>a 
 attractions to the visitor. It is a ])urely .Sinhalese \illage ol 
 about eight hundred inliabil.inls, whose occupations chielly 
 consist in the ( ultixalion ol the betel, cinnamon and oranges.
 
 1 86 
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Kelani Valley 
 Line 
 
 Homagama 
 
 Areca palms 
 
 Padukka 
 
 Jak trees 
 
 Homagama (15m. 23c.). — Homagama station serves a purely 
 Sinhalese population engaged in agriculture. The chief pro- 
 ducts are the palm, cinnamon, betel, areca nuts, cocoanut oil 
 and garden vegetables. We shall here notice a distinct 
 increase in the cultivation of the elegant areca-nut palms which 
 form one of the noticeable features of the Kelani Valley. 
 They adorn the jungle on all sides. A pleasing effect is pro- 
 duced by the beautiful delicate stem, with its rich feathery 
 crest, standing out from the surrounding foliage. The graceful 
 bamboos, the huge waving fronds of the plantain, the shapely 
 mango, covered with the bell-shaped blossoms of the Thun- 
 bergia creeper, all seem to form a setting in which the elegant 
 areca displays its beauties to the greatest possible advantage. 
 
 The virtues of this tree, however, are not aesthetic only. 
 It is very prolific in the production of nuts, which grow in 
 clusters from the stem just beneath the crest of the palm. 
 Previous to the development of the nuts the tree flowers, and 
 diffuses a delightful fragrance all around. In size and appear- 
 ance the nuts are not unlike the nutmeg, and are similarly 
 enclosed in a husk. What becomes of them is easy to realise 
 when it is considered that every man, woman, and child is 
 addicted to the habit of betel-chewing, and that the areca- 
 nut forms part of the compound used for this purpose ; added 
 to this, there is an export trade in areca-nuts to the amount of 
 about ;^75,ooo per annum. 
 
 Padukka (21m. 74c.). — Padukka is a Sinhalese agricultural 
 village of the same character as Homogama, with the additional 
 feature of an excellent rest-house. The Jak trees in this dis- 
 trict will attract the notice of the traveller by their stupendous 
 growth and gigantic fruit. The Jak not only grows the largest 
 of all edible fruits, but it bears it in prodigious quantity and 
 In a peculiar fashion. It throws huge pods from the trunk 
 and larger branches, and suspends them by a thick and short 
 stalk. There are sometimes as many as eighty of these huge 
 fruits upon one tree, some of them weighing as much as forty 
 to fifty pounds. They are pale green in colour, with a granu- 
 lated surface. Inside the rough skin is a soft yellow substance, 
 and embedded in this are some kernels about the size of a 
 walnut. This fruit often forms an ingredient in the native 
 curries, but its flavour is disliked by Europeans. Elephants, 
 however, are very fond of it, and its great size would seem to 
 make it an appropriate form of food for these huge beasts. 
 A much more extensive use of the Jak tree is the manufacture 
 of furniture from its wood, which is of a yellowish colour 
 turning to red when seasoned. It is harder than mahogany, 
 which it somewhat resembles.
 
 271. AREOA PALMS. 
 
 272. ARECA ADORNINO THE JUNOLE.
 
 274. THE JAK TREE.
 
 I" III", iu)()K oi- ^I•:^•I.o^■ 1S9 
 
 Wac.a (27m. 4<Sc.). l-rom Padukka to Waj^a the course of Keiani Vaiiey 
 the railway line is north and approaches to w ilhin four miles of '"'"'^ 
 Hanuclla. Thus it will be noticed that the traveller who wajja 
 wishes to \isit Hanuclla without the expense of motor car or 
 otlicr conveyance Ironi C'oloniijo, can travel bv rail to W'aga 
 and thence to Hanwclhi h\ Inckery (Plate 273), which will cost 
 about twenty-fi\i' cents or fourpence a mile. 
 
 At Hanwella will be found the luxurious rest-house already lla<tweUa 
 described, where the artist or naturalist will be tempted to 
 |)rolon<;^ his sta\ . L'j)on lea\ing Hanwella the route mav be 
 \ aried by dri\ int; to Kosgama station instead of back to W'aga, 
 the distance being about the same. We have now reached 
 the outskirts of the Kelani \'alley tea plantations, and tea has 
 to be added to the list of local products, although areca-nuts 
 ])rovide most of the freight despatched from W'aga station. 
 
 Apart from the beautiful scenery and historii-al associations Labu^ama 
 of Hanwella, the tra\(ller will be well rewarded for a trip 
 to W'aga b\ 1I1C l()\(I\ i)rospect of the Labugama Lake, from 
 which Colombo deri\es its water supplv. Here in silence and 
 solitude lies an expanse of water artifically dammed, but with 
 such a glorious setting that it is unsurpassed for picturesquc- 
 ness in the rest of this beautiful country. Around the basin, 
 which is situated 360 feet above sea level, are rugged hills 
 rising lo ni)wards of 1,000 feet and exhibiting the greatest 
 variety of tropical llora, planted by the hand of nature herself. 
 The catchment area of 2,400 acres is intersected by many 
 streams, which flow from the hills o\-er boulder-strewn beds 
 bringing pure supplies to the reservoir, 'ihe marginal sward, 
 like the gold slip of a picture frame, has its pleasing effect at 
 the edge of the still waters, in which are mirrored the graceful 
 shapes evoKed from th;' mists of a xapour-laden sky. Beauti- 
 ful cloud-effects arc seldom absent, foi" it is a localitv which 
 attracts and tlun dis])erscs tlicni. Tlic rainfall is indeed 
 Iu'a\'V and Ireciuciit, anmunting lo iiui inches in a \'ear, or 
 nearh' double that ol (Oloniho. The visitor should llurilorc 
 be ])rcparcd aci'oi-dint;l\ . 
 
 Kclorc the Kelani \ allcN was exploited lor agricultural 
 ])urp()ses, the locality around Labugama was famous for 
 ele|)hant hunting and shooting. .\ kra.'tl was constructed here 
 in i<S(S2 in honour of the \isit of the Princes X'ictor and (leorge 
 of Wales, and a large nuinhci- ol elephants were caught. 
 
 Prw AKiMi nw (3-|ni. 43c.). At Puwak|iili\a we reach the Mu\*akpiti\« 
 Tea and Rubber cultivation. This station ser\ is the estates 
 of Penrith, l^lston, (ilencorse, I'-rnan, l'"erril)y and Northumber- 
 land. About a hundred tons of tea per month are despatched 
 1)\ rail. Rubber is in its infancy, with a monthly despatch ol
 
 I9P THK ROOK OF fl'.M^ON 
 
 Keiani about ten tons, which will doubtless rapidly increase. From 
 
 Valley Line j^j-,^. heio-hts upoii h'erriby estate there are grand views of the 
 surrounding mountainous country. 
 
 Avisaweiia AvisAWELLA (36m. 66c.). — Avisawella is a town of con- 
 
 siderable importance both historically and as the centre of the 
 district. It is moreover the junction between the rail and coach 
 service to Ratnapura, the city of gems. The local products 
 are tea, cocoanuts, cardamoms, paddy, betel-leaf, kurrakan, 
 cinnamon, rubber and areca-nuts. The railway despatches 
 about twenty-five tons of areca-nuts and sixty tons of tea 
 monthly. 
 
 The accommodation for travellers at the rest-house quite 
 near the railway station is excellent, and the food supply always 
 good. 
 
 sitawaka Sitawaka is the historical name of this place, and although 
 
 it has long disappeared from maps and modern documents, the 
 river, a tributary of the Keiani, upon which the ancient city 
 stood, is still known as the Sitawaka River (see Plates 275 and 
 276). The name is derived from the incident of Sita, the heroine 
 of the epic Ramayana, being forcibly brought hither by Rawana. 
 This legend of prehistoric times provides a fitting halo of 
 romance for so charming a spot ; but in later times, when 
 history has supplanted tradition, we find Sitawaka towards 
 the middle of the sixteenth century the capital of a lowland 
 principality, the stronghold of Mayadunne and his son 
 Rajasinha, who had the courage to oppose the King of Cotta 
 and the Portuguese, with the result that many bloody battles 
 were fought around the city, which eventually, about the close 
 of the century, was destroyed by the ruthless Portuguese, who 
 scarcely left a stone standing. The beautiful temple, con- 
 structed of finely worked granite, and the gorgeous palace 
 were burned and wrecked so completely that only traces of 
 them are now visible. The remains are situated on the 
 Sitawaka River to the right of the steel bridge from which our 
 photograph (Plate 276) is taken. A sharp bend in the river is 
 noticeable with high land on the left at a distance of only a 
 couple of hundred yards from the bridge. Here are the ruins 
 
 Benndi Kovil oi the remarkable temple known as the Berendi Kovil, built 
 by Rajasinha, who succeeded his father King Mayadunne 
 referred to above. At the approach to the ruins there is a 
 moat or ditch to be crossed, and the visitor will not fail to 
 note the five immense slabs of hewn stone by which it is 
 spanned, each being about fourteen feet in length and nearly 
 four in width. The stone carving displayed in the ruins is 
 exquisite in its refinement : sufficient of it remains to indicate 
 that the fanaticism of the Portuguese in destroying this
 
 275. SITAWAKA RIVER. 
 
 ?TG. SITAWAKA BIVER. 
 
 270. THE GUIDE POST TO RATNAPU 
 
 270. PUNTINO A PRODUCE llOAT ON Tut Kll
 
 280- GUARD STONE AT BERENDI KOVIL. 
 
 ZBI. PILLAR AT EERENDI KOVIL. 
 
 282 PILLAR AT MEDAGODA.
 
 THH BOOK OK CHVLOX 
 
 193 
 
 buildins^, deprived Ceylon of a matchless example of stone- »vciuni Naiiiy 
 temple architecture. Stranj^e stories are told as to the circum- ''"'^ 
 stances in which Rajasinha was led to build this Kovil for the lunruu Kovil 
 worship of Siva. The Sinhalese chronicle Mahat^'atisu states 
 lliat he was a parricide, and being- smitten by remorse appealed 
 to the priests of Buddha for relief. Their reply, that the con- 
 sequences of his sin could not be destroyed, so incensed him 
 that he forthwith put them to death, and embraced the religion 
 of Si\a. Local tradition accepting this adds that the Brahmins 
 induced him to build the Berenda, which means "the temple 
 to get redemption." The inhabitants of Aviswella \ary the 
 above account both as to the crime and the treatment of the 
 priests, some belie\ ing that the priests were mutilated, spread 
 upon the land and ploughed over while alive, and adding that 
 the king was consumed l)y lire and taken off to hell before the 
 building was I'lnished. 
 
 In other \ersions parricide gives place to other heinous 
 crimes ; reliable history, however, records none of these things. 
 It knows Rajasinha I. only as a man of high courage and 
 ability who reigned at Sitawaka, and more or less successfully 
 opposed the Portuguese in their attempts to take the hill- 
 countrv. Tradition adds that he died in his hundredth vear, 
 having fought for his countr\- continually for o\er eighty years. 
 
 On the side of the ri\er opposite to the ruins of the Berendi 
 temple, are the remains of a fort built by the Dutch about the 
 year 1675, for the purpose of resisting the Kandyan king 
 and protecting their maritime possessions. 
 
 At Medagoda, six miles below Ruanwella on the rigiit bank Me,iak'<^<iii 
 of the Kelani, there is a I'attini Dewale (temple dedicated to 
 the g(Kldess I'attini) \\hi( h contains a beautifullv carved pillar 
 supposed to ha\e been rcmo\ed from the Berendi temple at 
 Sitawaka. This gi\es some idea of the elaborate decoration 
 bestowed on the building of this temple (Plate jSj). 
 
 It is thus described by .Mr. Bell* : This pillar is probably 
 unique. Having no fellow it is in e\tr\ wav unsuited to its 
 present en\ ironment, added to which where it stands its bi'autv 
 is necessarilv much concealed. The monolith must originally 
 ha\c been squared to i ft. 2 in., the size it assumes across the 
 lion's breast, lotus bosses, and capital lillet. Rising octagonally 
 from the back of a broad-faced couchant lion of con\entional 
 type, w ith frilled mane and raised tail, the shaft slides gradually 
 into the rectangular b\ a semi-expanded caK \ moulding. Half- 
 way uj) relief is gi\en b\' a bordered fillet J in. in breadth, 
 slightlv projecting, carved with a single ilower pattern repeated 
 round the pillar. I'rom the fillet depends on each face a pearl 
 
 *' Report of 111. Kegalla District, In- Mr. 11. C. P. Hell, .\rcha.-ological Commis- 
 sioner, 
 
 N
 
 194 
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Keiani Valley bead String (muktd-ddma). A few inches above this band stand 
 out from alternate faces full-blown lotus knops, 5 in. in cir- 
 cumference, with ornamentation resembling much the " Tudor 
 flower " upon the intervening sides. Where the pillar be- 
 comes square there are further loops of pearls, three on each 
 side, separated by single vertical strings. A lower capital of 
 ogee moulding, separated by narrow horizontal fillets, and 
 finished with ovolos and a rectangular band, is surmounted 
 by a four-faced makara and a low abacus. From the centre 
 of the roundlet moulding on all four sides drops the garlanded 
 chakra symbol noticeable on the sculptures at Bharhut. How 
 dead to all sense of aesthetic taste must be villagers who could 
 hide such artistic work in stone behind a mud wall ! 
 
 Ratnapura, to which we have made reference in connection 
 with Panadure and Kalutara in our description of the coast 
 line, is twenty-six miles from Avisawella, and there is a daily 
 coach service between the two places, particulars of which 
 may be found on reference to the index. 
 
 Dehiowita Dehiow^ta (42m. 50C.). — Dehiowita is surrounded by many 
 
 large tea estates, which supply a considerable traffic to the 
 railwavj amounting to some few thousands of tons in the 
 course of the year. Rubber cultivation is on the increase here. 
 Areca-nuts despatched by rail amount to about fifteen tons per 
 month, while cinnamon is on the decline and sent only in 
 small quantities. The little town lies about three quarters 
 of a mile from the railway station, and contains about nine 
 hundred inhabitants, many of them being estate coolies. 
 
 karawaneiia Karawaxell.a (45m. 40C.). — Karawanella station is one mile 
 
 from the village of Karawanella and two miles from Ruanwella, 
 which together have a population of about 1,500. Some of 
 the most beautiful scenery in Ceylon is to be found here. The 
 river views are perhaps unequalled, especially that from Kara- 
 wanella bridge (Plate 283). There are plenty of heights from 
 which to view the diversified character of the country. Immense 
 perpendicular ledges of rocks rise from the forest, rearing 
 their stupendous heads above the thickets of palm and bamboo. 
 Even these rocks of granite which appear in giant masses 
 all over the forests by disintegration supply nourishment for 
 the luxuriant vegetation with which they are covered (Plate 284). 
 The reward of human labour is apparent in the tea and 
 rubber estates now flourishing where once the lands lay in 
 utter devastation as a result of the native wars with the 
 Portuguese and Dutch, the country here being the farthest 
 point to which the invaders managed to penetrate. 
 
 Ruamc'ciin At Ruanwella the rest-house and its grounds, which are 
 
 on the site of a ruined fort, are in themselves full of interest,
 
 283. THE KELANI AT KARAWANELLA. 
 
 284. ROCKS OF GRANITE AT RUANWELLA.
 
 285. RUANWELLA FORD. 
 
 286. PRODUCE BOATS AT RUANWELLA.
 
 THK BOOK oi- (•|■;^■L()^■ 
 
 197 
 
 and w ill be louiul so coiKlucix <_■ to comfort as to make the Keiani \aiic\ 
 visitor w lio is not pressed for time \ ery loth to leave. A line '-'"'^ 
 archwa} , the entrance to the ancient fort, is still preserved, Ruanu-eUn 
 and forms an interesting^ feature in the gardens. Near to this 
 is oni- of the most remarkable mango trees in Cevlon, about 
 ninctv feet higli, and more than that in circuniferc-nce ; it is 
 litcralK' co\ered willi the Thunbergia creeper, which when in 
 l)loom presents a magnihcent appearance. In the grounds 
 too are to be seen a \ ariety of large Crotons and other gorgeous 
 plants, which flourish here to perfection. A palisade encamp- 
 ment was formed here b\- the Dutch, but within a few years 
 was abandoned to the Kandyans. The site, commanding as it 
 did the water communication Ijctween Kandv and Colombo, 
 was of great importance. Here the Kandvans made more 
 than one bra\e but ineffectual stand against the: British troops 
 in the earl\ part of the nineteenth centur\-. At tliis time the 
 Kandyan king's ro\ al garden was occupied b\ British troops, 
 and was thus described by Percival : — "The grove where we The king's 
 encamped was about two miles in (-ircumferencc, being bound ■-''"■'''" 
 on till' west b\- a large, deep and rapid branch of the Malixa- 
 ganga, while in front towards Ruanwella another branch ran in 
 the south-east direction, winding in such a manner that the 
 three sides of the grove were encompassed by water, while the 
 fourth was enclosed by thick hedges of bamboos and betel 
 trees. This extensixe cocoanut-tree garden lies immediately 
 under steep and lofty hills, which command a most romantit- 
 \ iew of the surrounding countr\. It forms part of the king's 
 (jw 11 domains, and is the pla.ce w here his i-lephants were usuallv 
 kept and trained. " 
 
 The British retained Ruanwella as a military ])ost until 
 the new road to Kandy was completed and the pacification of 
 the Kaiuhans entircK accomplished, after which the fort and 
 commandant's f|uartcrs were transfornn d into a well-appointed 
 rest-house and picturesque gardens. The ruined entrance still 
 bears the initials of (lovernor Sir Robert Brownrigg and the 
 date ]Si7. 
 
 A ])leasaiit stroll Irom the rcsl-liouse, through shady gro\i's I'roduct bwus 
 of areca and other palms, brings us to a part of the ri\ir which 
 is not only \(iy picturescjue, but gives evidence of its use 
 oi commerce as a highwa\. Here we can see the quaint pro- 
 duce boats and the curiousK (onstructed liamboo rafts being 
 laden with freight lor the |)ort of Colombo. 
 
 I'i'om this i)()int to Colombo the distanci' by wati'r is about 
 sixt\ miles; and su( h is the rapidity of thi- current alter the 
 fri'Cjuent and hea\\ rainfalls that these boats an- able to reach 
 Colombo in one (la\ ; tin onlv exertion required of tlie boatmen 
 being such tariful steeiinj; as to keep clear of rocks, trees.
 
 198 THE HOOK OF CRYLON 
 
 Keiani Valley aiul sandbanks. The return journey, however, is a more 
 arduous task, and entails great labour and endurance for 
 many days. 
 
 During fine weather the river can be lorded at this point, 
 and it is quite worth while to cross over and follow the path, 
 seen in our picture of the ford (Plate 285), which leads to 
 Ruanwella estate. That such a wonderful change from jungle 
 to orderly cultivation has been made within few years can 
 scarcely be realised when walking along the excellently planned 
 roads, and gazing upon the flourishing tea bushes, where a 
 short time ago all was a mass of wild and almost impenetrable 
 thicket. 
 
 Vatiyantota Yatiyantota (47m. 60C.). — Yatiyantota is the present 
 
 terminus of the Ivelani Valley railway. It is \erv much shut 
 in by hills and in consequence very warm. There is a good rest- 
 house with two bedrooms. 
 
 There are few attractions here for the visitor ; but it serves 
 as a halting place for those who proceed by this route to 
 Dickoya and the higher planting districts, the mountain pass 
 to which is a thing of very great natural beauty and of its 
 kind unequalled in Ceylon, where so many mountain passes 
 have lost their primitive beauty owing to the inroads of modern 
 cultivation clearing away all the primeval forest. Here, in 
 the Ginigathena pass, the landscape has not yet suffered, and 
 the views from Kitulgala at the eighth mile from Yatiyantota 
 are exceedingly beautiful. Upon leaving the rest-house the 
 road runs along the banks of the Keiani, as seen in our plate 
 288, the ascent beginning about the third mile. There are no 
 conveyances to be obtained at Yatiyantota except bullock 
 hackeries, and the visitor who wishes to proceed by this route 
 to Hatton should therefore make the trip by motor car from 
 Colombo. But for the tourist who explores the Keiani \'alley 
 
 Ginigathena at leisure, a walking tour up the Ginigathena pass, with a 
 
 ^"^ hackery for an occasional ride, is pleasant enough, and may be 
 
 done by making headquarters at Ruanwella rest-house which 
 is cooler and pleasanter than Yatiyantota. 
 
 Kegaiic In the same way the tourist may make a trip from Ruan- 
 
 wella to Kegalle (twenty miles), through a lovely wooded and 
 undulating country. The cyclist will find it easy to explore 
 the whole of the Keiani Valley by using the railway for the 
 longer journeys, and taking short excursions on his bicycle 
 from the various rest-houses.
 
 ^mm\ 
 
 237. THE KELANI AT RUANWELLA. 
 
 w 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 ^ ^ 
 
 
 ^mSt^.^^^l^ 
 
 
 ^■^C^p^^^^^^^^^^^^^H^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 'ir^' "^ ^^^^^^H 
 
 
 mP\L, .- ^^^H 
 
 288. THE KELANI
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON. 
 
 PART II. 
 
 KANDY AND THE HIGHLANDS. 
 
 FOR the traveller bound lor the mountain districts there is Main Line 
 a choice of stations from which he can take his departure, itinerary 
 He may entrain at any of the coast-line stations and change 
 at Maradana Junction, or drive direct to that station, which 
 is about a mile and a half from either the (irand Oriental or 
 the (ialle Face Hotel. But as extensive alterations are in pro- 
 gress which mav in\()Kc- a change in the location of the main 
 passenger terminus, it will be advisable to obtain detailed 
 information at the hotel. 
 
 Leaving Colombo, the main line passes through niaiNhy 
 lands and backwaters until at the second mile the ri\er Kclani 
 is crossed and a fine \ iew afforded on either side. At the 
 fourth mile the first station appears, and although it is 
 situated in the village of Paliyagoda it takes its name of 
 Kelaniya from the district. 
 
 Kki.aniva (3m. 49c.). — There is no hotel or rest-house Kelaniya 
 accommodation at Kelaniya, nor are there any conveyances for *'»'"' 
 hire with the exception of bullock-hackeries, which, however, 
 will generall}- be found sufficient for all requirements. The 
 agricultural products are cocoanuts, paddy and \egetables. 
 The women of the villages are chiefly occupied in carrying the 
 vegetables upon their heads to the markets of Colombo, and 
 large numbers of them will be noticed engaged in this useful 
 work. The chief iiati\e industry is the manufacture of bricks 
 and tiles for building purposes. Our illustration (Plate jSy) 
 gi\es a very good idea of a tile yard; in it can be seen some 
 of the oldest fashicMied tiles, which are scmi-cylindricrd. These 
 have been superseded to some extent by the flat-shaped pattern 
 from Southern India; but for simplicity, geniral utility and 
 coolness they have no equal. Their use is remarkably simple; 
 
 * The number of feet given in the margins indicate tlie elevations of the 
 stations above sea level.
 
 202 riii'; HOOK oi" ci':\LON 
 
 Main Line ihi'v arc mcrcl}' laid in rows upon the rafters, alternately con- 
 Keianiya cavc and coiivex, without any fastening- whatever. Each tile 
 is tapered off at the end to allow the next to lie close upon it, 
 and thus the whole roof is held together without fastenings of 
 any kind. When complete the roof presents the appearance 
 of a ribbed surface of split drain pipes all laid with the hollow 
 part inside; the rows laid the other way are hidden and serve 
 to drain off the heavy rains. So simple is this system of 
 covering that in case of damage or leakage the whole roof 
 can be stripped and relaid within a few hours. The buffaloes 
 in the picture are used for kneading and mixing the clay, an 
 occupation for which they are eminently suited from their 
 enormous strength and their natural predilection for wallowing 
 in swamps. The clay of Kelaniya is said to be the best pro- 
 curable near Colombo for tiles and pottery generally. Other 
 industries of Kelaniya are the desiccating of cocoanuts for 
 purposes of confectionery, and the storage and preparation of 
 artificial manures for the tea and other estates. The latter 
 is a business of considerable magnitude, and from the mills 
 which adjoin the station no less than two thousand tons are 
 despatched by rail in the course of the year in addition to 
 that which is transported by other means. 
 
 A few hundred yards from Kelaniya station there is a 
 Roman Catholic church much frequented by pilgrims on account 
 of a well in its precincts whose water is said to have miraculous 
 healing powers. But the chief object of interest to the visitor 
 The Temple is the Kelaniya Wihare (Buddhist Temple), which is held in 
 great veneration by all the Buddhists of the lowlands, and to 
 which many thousands come on full-moon days, bearing gifts 
 of fruit, money and flowers for the shrine. This building stands 
 near the river bank, and contributes its full share of picturcsque- 
 ness to a scene that offers irresistible attractions to many an 
 amateur photographer. The present temple is about two 
 hundred years old, but its dagaba or bell-shaped shrine is much 
 older and was probably erected in the thirteenth century. The 
 site is, however, one referred to in history and legend in far 
 more remote antiquity. The image of Buddha, thirty-six feet in 
 length, and the brilliant frescoes depicting scenes in his various 
 lives, are fittingly found in the place which he is supposed 
 to have visited in person during his life. A tradition appears 
 in verv early records that at Kelaniya in the fifth century B.C. 
 there reigned a Naga king who was converted by the preaching 
 of Buddha. A few years later he revisited his royal convert, 
 who entertained him and his attendant disciples at Kelaniya, 
 providing them with a celestial banquet. It was upon this 
 occasion that Buddha rose aloft in the air and left the im- 
 pression of his foot upon the mountain of Sumana, which is
 
 » je^'y^-' ""^ 
 
 ■i.irX.: 
 
 
 «:^' 
 
 -^?^ ^-Sw:"^"-^ -:;i^ "' ^^:..-> 
 
 2S9. MAKING TILES AT KELANT; 
 
 290. SCENE ON THE RIVER KELANI.
 
 291. A KELANI BARGE IN FULL SAIL. 
 
 292. A KELANI BARGE.
 
 THK BOOK OF CI•:^■I.OX 205 
 
 known to us as Adam's I'cak. But k'^ciuis of " Ktlanipura " Main Line 
 (the city ol' KclaniyaJ tell of c'\ents loni^- before the time of ^■'''""."« 
 13ucldha, and even go back to W'ibhisaiia w ho rukd over Ceylon 
 in the eighteenth century n.c., and to whose memory was buik 
 the W'ibhisana Dewale in the precincts of the Kekmiya W'ihare. 
 Later history refers to the city of Ki laniya buik by King 
 Yatala Tissa in the third century n.( . He was succeeded by 
 King Kelani Tissa, who put to death an innocent Buddhist 
 monk b\' casting him into a cauldron of boiling oil, upon which, 
 relates the ancient chronicle, the RajimHiliya, the sea en- 
 croached and destroyed a great portion of the country. How- 
 ever much these traditions may transcend the limits of strict 
 historical verity, it is undoubted that Kelaniya was a place of 
 considerable fame in early times, and it is not surprising that 
 its \enerable temple and its sacred shrine attract both pilgrims 
 from afar and non-Buddhist sightseers of many nationalities, 
 especially as the railway has added so much to the facilities 
 for reaching them. 
 
 HrxriMiivA (5m. 42c.). — Hunupitiya is best known to Hunupitiya 
 Colombo people for its rifle range, where practice is carried on " •''"' 
 bv the militarv and police from Colombo. The accommodation 
 is limited to the large waiting hall of the railwav station and 
 a restaurant called the Hunupitiya Bar, about one hundred 
 yards from the station. Cocoanuts and paddy are the chiif 
 agricultural products, while small plots of betel, arci as and 
 |")lantains are also culti\atc(l. The manufacturvS are limited to 
 I'oir \arn spun Irom the husks ot the cocoaiuit. 
 
 Raga.ma (cjm.).- .\t Ragama cultixation increases in variety, Rajrama 
 and we notice both tea and cinnamon in addition to the cocoa- '^ ''"' 
 nuts and paddy. The inhabitants of the \illage are Sinhalese, 
 and number about 2,500 irrespective of those who are tem- 
 porariK in the ol)servation camp, an institution from which 
 Ragama derives much of its present importance. The reason 
 for the existence of this camp is found in the fact that Ceylon 
 is dependent upon India for the supply of labour for the tea 
 estates, in\()l\ing a constant immigration of Tamil coolies to 
 the extent of about 150,000 per annum. In order that these 
 new-("omers should not import disease into tin- \arious districts 
 of Cevlon thev arc, immediatelv upon disembarkation at 
 Colombo, placed in quarters speciallv pro\ ided at the root ol 
 the breakwater. Here they are subjected to a thorough inspec- 
 tion, bathed and fed. Next they are entrained on the spot and 
 conveved to Ragama, where the\' are kept under obserxation 
 until it is considered safe for them to proci-ed to their various 
 destinations. During the Boer war a large numbir of recalci- 
 trant prisoners-of-war were removed from the delightful camp
 
 2o6 
 
 THE nOOK OF CEYLOX 
 
 Main Line of Diyatalawa and placed here in (jrd( r that they mij^ht not 
 
 Ragama infect tlic rest with their discontent. 
 
 Ra_<4ania promises soon to increase in importance as the 
 junction for the new line to Neg-ombo, which will branch off 
 from the main line at tliis station. Near Ragama are the 
 famous Mahara quarries whence was obtained all the stone 
 for the construction of the breakwaters and harbour works of 
 Colombo; the branch railway line which will be noticed 
 diverging to the right leads to the quarries. 
 
 Henaratgoda 
 
 36 feet 
 
 Henaratgoda (i6m. 59c.). — Henaratgoda is a busy little 
 town of about 5,000 inhabitants, situated amidst well-watered 
 fields and gardens whose products are of considerable variety 
 and importance. Gardens devoted to the culture of the betel 
 vine, which has been described and illustrated on pages 86-88, 
 are the most in evidence, and supply railway freight to the 
 
 Local products extent of twenty tons of leaves a week in addition to large 
 loads despatched by other means. The district also produces 
 arcca-nuts, pepper, cinnamon, rubber, tea, paddy and cocoa- 
 nuts. Its chief interest to us, however, centres in the Botanic 
 Garden, where we may see some of the finest Para rubber trees 
 in the colony. Many passengers from various countries who 
 call at the port of Colombo make a trip to Henaratgoda for 
 the special purpose of seeing these trees. The railway and 
 other facilities afforded render the journey easy and comfort- 
 able. There is a good rest-house near the station and refresh- 
 ments are procurable without previous notice. Buggies or 
 hackeries can be hired near the station for driving to the 
 gardens about a mile distant. The usual charge is twenty- 
 five cents or fourpence a mile. The drive is pretty, as will be 
 noticed from our photograph (Plate 294). It is on the left of 
 the railway, our view being reached immediatelv after passing 
 
 Botanic Gardens through the bazaar. The garden is one of a number of such 
 institutions that are under the Government Department of 
 Botany and Agriculture, with headquarters at Peradeniya where 
 its Director and his extensive scientific staff of experts reside. 
 The Hemaratgoda gardens were opened in 1876 for the purpose 
 of making experiments in ascertaining suitable subjects for 
 cultivation in the heated lowlands. It was about this time that 
 the Para rubber seed was planted, and many of the trees that 
 we see there to-day are therefore upwards of thirty years old. 
 These, together with others more recently planted, provide an 
 excellent and encouraging object lesson to the investor in the 
 latest " boom " of tropical culture. Some account of this latest 
 method of wooing wealth may be of interest here. 
 
 Rubber Most people are aware of the sensation that has been caused 
 
 in the economic world bv the remarkable increase in the demand
 
 293. HENARATGODA RAILWAY STATION. 
 
 294. THE ROAD TO HENARATGODA GARDb,\
 
 ^ 
 
 J^m^ 
 
 'fe-::^^*,.. 
 
 j';-..Jr-.-,^ 
 
 
 
 295. HENARATGODA GARDENS. 
 
 296. RUBBER TREES IN HENARATGODA GARDENS.
 
 THH HOOK OF CKVLOX 209 
 
 for rubber, and the probability ol the great extension of this M"«n Line 
 demand. I'ropical agriculturists ha\ e been induced to rush "t"«f'K^">'> 
 headlong into a new industry which to the trcneral public Cuiiivation 0/ 
 
 • , " . 1 ■ t r • rubber 
 
 appears so sunple and so sure ol lortune-making, that from its 
 very inception capital has been showered upon it unsought. 
 But the ordinary person who has not been directly concerned 
 with the rubber market, or lived in tropical lands where the 
 rapid change, extending even to the landscape itself, has 
 brought the new industry into prominence, knows little of the 
 large sum of scientific and experimental research that is being- 
 undertaken in the endeavour to ensure success iii this new- 
 departure. The jjopular idea is that the provision of capital is 
 the first and last consideration ; trees have only to be planted, 
 and after more or less patient waiting for se\en vears the 
 desired fortune trickles down the stems without more ado. 
 'riicrc arc, howcM'r, niany questions and difficulties to be faced 
 by tlie cultivator, and a recognition of these, and some informa- 
 tion as to the manner in which they are being dealt with, will 
 not only give a better understanding of the position of the indus- 
 try, but will evoke admiration of the thoroughness of the colon- 
 ist in Ceylon who prepares to compete with the rest of the world 
 b\- calling to his aid all the scientific knowledge and practical 
 experience that can be brought to bear upon the enterprise. 
 
 The rubber of commerce consists of dried vegetable milk 
 or latex, and as there are many plants from which this sub- 
 stance may be obtained it is first necessary to choose the 
 species most suitable for the soil and conditions of climate, 
 having due regard to its vielding capacitv. I'ara, Ceara and 
 C'astilloa, all from tropical America, have been tried under 
 various conditions of soil, rainfall and elevation, with the result 
 that Para {Hevea brazilieiisis) has been found superior in all 
 the qualities most desired. A wide distribution has been given 
 to Ceara, a tree which is quick-growing and thrives in many 
 climates; but Para is generally the most satisfactor}- in growth, 
 hardiness and yield. I'^xperiments ha\e not, however, tiuicd 
 hen-, and several other species are being trii-d. Marly ii-i the 
 \-ear 1906 it was fullv realised that the |:)lanting of rubber in 
 Ceylon was an assured success; the planter had discovered the 
 most suitable species and how to grow tlu-m. I'pwards of 
 T 00,000 acres had been planted, and the trees that had begun 
 to \ield rubber were highly satisfactory both in the quality and 
 ;il)iiiul;incc of the supph'. So good a thing was worthy of e\ ery 
 effort to secure j)ermanint success, and the idea, originating 
 with Mr. James Ryan, of l)ringing out all available knowhdge, 
 empirical and scientific, 1)\ means of a rubbi-r i-xhibition, was 
 taken up 1)\ the whole community with unprecedented en- 
 thusiasm. Iiulgcs were ol)taiiied from England, and delegates
 
 2IO 'IIIIv I5()()K OF CKYI.ON 
 
 Main Line from all parts ol the world were invited. The result was a 
 iiaiaminoda rubbcr coii'^ress, a great assembly of experts to discuss with 
 n'l'hiu'"''"'^ "^ the planters of Ceylon every question afferting- the cultivation 
 of rubber. Resides a series of lectures, there were demonstra- 
 tions in tapping and the various processes of preparing for 
 market. The questions and problems dealt with every feature 
 of the industry at present apparent in Ceylon, and embraced 
 every hypothetical point that could be imagined regarding the 
 future. A few of the conclusions may be mentioned here by 
 way of giving the reader some insight into the important points 
 of the industry. In tapping or excising the bark to obtain the 
 latex several methods are employed, none of which is much 
 superior to the others ; but in every one the greatest care is 
 necessary to avoid cutting away the bark too extensively ; as 
 renewed bark takes five or six years to reach the maturity 
 that will allow a further yield. Experiments to determine the 
 best methods of tapping are regarded of the greatest im- 
 portance, and will be continued at Heneratgoda. The average 
 yield of mature Para trees upon Ceylon plantations is at present 
 from one to one and a half pounds per tree per annum ; but it 
 is confidently hoped that improved systems of drawing the latex 
 will ultimately increase this amount considerably. The mature 
 tree possesses a surprising amount of latex, and its gradual 
 extraction fortunately has little or no deteriorating effect upon 
 the soil. Rubber will grow almost anywhere in Ceylon below 
 an elevation of 3,000 feet, and there are many hundreds of 
 square miles of land now lying waste which may be brought 
 under its cultivation. The question how far apart to plant the 
 trees depends somewhat upon considerations of soil and of 
 height above sea level ; but it is agreed that close planting is 
 to be avoided, and an average of fifteen feet is regarded as a 
 good rule. Close planting may give rise to fungus and other 
 troubles, and, moreover, is certain to delay the maturity of the 
 trees. The past experience of the Ceylon planter is not over- 
 looked, and the best expert knowledge with regard to possible 
 pests and diseases when large areas shall be under cultivation 
 is being eagerly sought from the mycologist, the entomologist, 
 the chemist, and all members of the scientific department of 
 the Government. It should be some consolation to the investor 
 that any outbreak in the future will find the estate ready at 
 once to meet it and destroy it. 
 
 The preparation of rubber from the latex involves coagula- 
 tion by means of acid and the elimination of all impurities. 
 \'arious machines are already employed in these processes, and 
 as the industry is yet in its infancy there is still a large field 
 open for mechanical invention for more effectual manipulation 
 all along the line. One thing of great importance pointed out
 
 rholo by Mr. AV.'.ijj' Jlaiiihr. 
 
 297. RUBBER TREES, HENARATGODA. 
 
 298 RUBBER PLANTED AMONG TEA. 
 
 200. RUBBER PLANTATION.
 
 00. EBONY TREE AT HEN 
 
 301. HENARATGODA GARDENS. 
 
 302. HENARATCOCA G-nrE\S.
 
 THE BOOK OF CHVLOX 213 
 
 by Mr. Bambcr, the eminent Government chemist, is the Main Line 
 necessity of keeping- the factory absolutely free from bacteria. UmaratROiia 
 Implements, utensils and all apparatus used in manufacture T^ rubber 
 should be sterilised. The foresight being exercised in Ceylon 
 is not, however, restricted in the direction of production alone; 
 consumption is to be stimulated, fresh uses are to be dis- 
 covered for the produce of the growing- estates, and fresh 
 markets opened up. There is also the important question, 
 brought to the front by Mr. Bamber, as to the vulcanisation 
 of rubber in the country of production. At present the raw 
 material is prepared in the form of biscuits, sheets or blocks, 
 and shipped in the various countries where it is manufactured 
 into goods. Before manufacture it is necessary to tear it to 
 pieces by ver\- powerful machinery and mix it with various 
 agents according to the use to be made of it. This process, 
 which is very expensive, can be entirely obviated by Mr. 
 Bamber 's method of mixing with the milk before coagulation 
 all the foreign agents required. The future will probably see 
 in Ceylon merchants who will purchase the latex from the 
 planter and manufacture rubber paving, tyres and other 
 articles much cheaper than they could ever be made by the 
 present cumbrous and wasteful method. The reader who is 
 further interested in the cultivation of rubber in Ceylon should 
 obtain the Peradeniya Manual entitled " Rubber in the East," 
 and " Hevea Brasilicnsis " bv Herbert Wright, F.L.S. 
 
 Although the Royal ]k)tanic (iarden at Hcnaratgoda has 
 recently been so much regarded as the show place of rubber 
 trees to the neglect of all else, the visitor will find many line 
 specimens of other useful trees and plants, including ebony and 
 satinwood. The cultivated area is about thirty acres. 
 
 \'F.vANf;on.\ (22m. 54c.). — \'eyangoda, the first stop of the Veyangoda 
 fast trains to Kandy, lies midway between Ncgombo on the ^' /"^' 
 west coast and Ruanwella in the Kelani \'allev, and deri\-es 
 its importance from the main road between these places which 
 on the one side contribute a large freight in dried fish from 
 the coast for the estate coolies in the hills, and on the other 
 tea and various products for the port of Colombo. Some idea 
 of the agricultural character of the district may be gathered L'aii priniucu 
 from the despatches of produce by rail, a monthly a\-erage of 
 whii'h amounts to 60 tons of tea, 20 tons of drii-d fish, So tons 
 of copra (the dried kernel of the cocoanut from which the oil 
 is expressed), 100 tons of disiccated cocoanuts (the kernel dis- 
 integrated, dried and prepared for confectionery), 120 tons of 
 cocoanut fibre, 50 tons of cocoanut oil, 20 tons of poonac (the 
 kernel after extraction of the oil), 150 tons of plumbago, besides 
 smaller quantities of betel, pepper and cinnamon, 'i'he large
 
 214 'I'J'- I-'OOK OF CKYLON 
 
 Main Line luctory visible from the r;iil\va\- is tlie desiccating factory of the 
 Vcyaiigmia Orient Company. 
 
 There is a good rest-house, about fi\c minutes' walk Irom 
 the station, situated on a knoll overlooking the railway line, 
 containing two single and two double bedrooms. l*'ood should 
 be ordered in advance. 
 
 The village of Veyangoda is about three miles from the 
 railway station, upon the old Colombo-Kandy road. Near it, 
 at the twenty-fourth mile from Colombo, is situated the his- 
 toric residence of Sir Solomon Dias Bandaranaike, C.M.G., 
 ThcMaha the Maha Mudaliyar of Ceylon (a title signifying the head of 
 Mudahyav ^j^^ Mudaliyars or low-country chieftains). The present Maha 
 Mudaliyar is also native aide de camp to his Excellency the 
 Governor of the Colony, and amongst the duties of his office 
 is that of presenting on State occasions the various native 
 dignitaries to the Governor. It may be of interest here to 
 Administra- explain how the rural Sinhalese are governed through the 
 Hon of rural a^encv of natives and to give some account of the various 
 
 districts c> j o 
 
 offices held by their chiefs and headmen. For purposes of 
 administration the colony is divided into provinces. Over each 
 province a Govei-nment Agent presides, sub-divisions of pro- 
 vinces at important centres being in charge of Assistant Agents. 
 The details of government in rural districts are delegated to 
 native officers whose designations vary in different parts of 
 the colony. We are at present concerned only with the low- 
 country of the west, where we have seen that the most exalted 
 native rank is that of Maha Mudaliyar ; next come the Mudali- 
 yars of the Governor's Gate, a title of honour conferred in 
 recognition of public services ; Mudaliyars of the Atapattu who 
 have jurisdiction over the subdivisions of provinces in sub- 
 ordination to the Assistant Government Agents or other officers 
 of the civil service ; various other Mudaliyars w-ith duties 
 attached to a number of offices, the title serving to indicate 
 their rank and precedence. Next come several classes of 
 Mohandirams, who are the lieutenants of the Mudaliyars, and 
 below them come the Arachchis who have charge of small sub- 
 divisions or villages. By means of these various officers the 
 orders of the Government are executed in areas difficult of 
 access and w'here the conditions of life are still primitive. The 
 methods in principle are the same as those of the English in 
 feudal times, and although they may seem archaic to the 
 stranger, he who is acquainted with Ceylon understands how 
 well suited they are to the conditions of life prevailing among 
 the rural Sinhalese, and how much more acceptable to the 
 people are their own time-honoured customs than the latest 
 elaborations of theoretically perfected administration. By 
 these native officers agricultural pursuits are supervised,
 
 303. RESIDENCE OF THE MAHA MUDALIYAR. SIR SOLOMON DIAS BANDARANAIKE.
 
 305. ENTRANCE TO RESIDENCE OF THE lYlAHA MUDALIYAR. 
 
 306. A CORNER IN THE MAHA IVIUDALIYAR'S PARK.
 
 THK BOOK OI" CKYLOX 217 
 
 revenue collected, crime suppressed, roads maintained and all Main Line 
 public affairs watched over with a sort of patriarchal authority iO'"'«"'''« 
 which the villag^cr appreciates and understands. In their very 
 uniforms oriental customs are maintained. The tunic of a 
 Mudaliyar is of silk, long and ornamental, with a large number 
 of gold loops and buttons, a sword belt bedecked with gold 
 lace and a sword with gold hilt and scabbard of silver inlaid 
 with gold. The Maha Mudaliyar's uniform is of a similar 
 character but of velvet instead of silk. The Mohandirams wear 
 uniforms similar to the Mudaliyars, except that their sword 
 belt is of plain gold lace. The Arachchis have silver loops and 
 trimmings. These official dresses are emblematic of rights 
 and privileges as well as of authority ; they and the system 
 they represent are an important relic of the ancient govern- 
 ment of the country which the British wisely recognise and 
 perpetuate. Xor is this go\ crnment of the Sinhalese villager 
 through his own chieftains limited to matters affecting agri- 
 culture and revenue; a system of village judicial courts known 
 as Gansabhawas provides for the settlement of all trivial dis- 
 putes and the punishment of minor offences. Over these 
 tribunals are set native presidents and itinerating magistrates 
 appointed by the Government. All courts, revenue offices, dis- 
 pensaries, schools and other Government institutions are 
 periodically inspected by the Government Agent. The system 
 varies little in the Kandyan and the Northern and Eastern 
 Provinces save in the titles borne by the oflicers or chiefs. 
 
 \'eyangoda has long been associated with the name of the 
 chief headman of the low-country, as the following quotation 
 from Tennent's " History of Ceylon," published half a century 
 ago, will show. " At \'eyangoda, twenty-five miles from 
 Colombo, the residence of Don Solomon I3ias Bandaranaike, 
 one of the Mudaliyars of the Ciovernor's (iate, affords the most 
 agreeable example of the dwelling of a low-country headman, 
 with its broad verandahs, spacious rooms and extensive olhces, 
 shaded by palm groves and fruit trees. The chief himself, now 
 upwards of eighty years of age (1859) is a noble specimen of 
 the native race, and in his official costume, decorated with the 
 gold chains and medals by which his services have been recog- 
 nised by the British Government, his tall and venerable figure 
 makes a striking picture." Sir Solomon Dias Bandaranaike. 
 the grandson of this tine old .Sinhak'se giMitleman, has added 
 to the attractions of the ancestral property at X'eyangoda by 
 the addition of a horse breeding estal)lishnuiit , a deer run, and 
 modern arrangements for the breeding of high class stock. 
 
 Ill the neighbourhood there are two ancient Buddhist 
 foundations of the period of King W'alagambahu (100 H.c.) : 
 -\ttangalla W'ihare, six miles from the railway station on the 
 P
 
 2l8 
 
 TIIK BOOK OF CI•:^■I.ON 
 
 Main Line road to Ruaii^c'Ila ; and W'arana Ivock 'I'cmple, situated in a 
 wry pi<-turcsquc spot, about fi\e miles distant. 'rherc arc 
 d()ublc-l)ullo(k coaches running between V'eyangoda and the 
 .\ltans4alla W'ihare for the conxeyance of passcnt^ers ; or single 
 hackeries can be hired at about threepence per mile. 
 
 Mirigama 
 
 164 /at 
 
 Cultivation 
 of the 
 cocoanut 
 
 MiRK.A.MA (j;om. .S4<.). To the traveller proceeding to 
 Kandy for the lirst time the lowland scenery, as the train 
 proceeds from station to station, is an ever fascinating 
 panorama. He cannot fail to feel enchanted by the alternating 
 scenes of primitive husbandry, glimpses of villages embosomed 
 in palms, magnificent groups of tropical trees, and particularly 
 with the effect of the masses of thick forest broken up at fre- 
 quent intervals by deep recesses devoted to the cultivation of 
 paddy. From November to January, when the corn is rising 
 from its watery bed, snipe and other aquatic birds appear 
 in large numbers between \'eyangoda and Rambukkana and 
 afford excellent sport. In F'ebruary and March the attention 
 is arrested by the quaint operations of harvest, which are con- 
 ducted with a ceremonial to be illustrated and described later 
 in connection with the Kandyan villages. 
 
 The country around Mirigama is very favourable to the 
 cultivation of the cocoanut, as is evidenced by the remarkable 
 yield of fruit on many of the trees. It is not often, however, 
 that the traveller can spare the time to inspect the various 
 features of interest in this important branch of tropical agri- 
 culture, but he may as he passes through it welcome some 
 account in these pages supplemented by illustrations that 
 belong to the district. Its ubiquity is often the only thing 
 noticed by the visitor about the cocoanut palm, and from this 
 arises the erroneous supposition that it is an indigenous plant, 
 whereas the native saving that it will not flourish away from 
 the sound of the human voice is nearer the truth. The cocoanut 
 is the chief source of Sinhalese wealth ; but unlike cinnamon 
 it depends upon man for its existence, and if left to nature 
 pines and dies. It is true, therefore, that wherever you see 
 the cocoanut palm there is population. Although European 
 colonists have considerably extended its cultivation it is pre- 
 eminently the national tree, the friend of the natives, all of 
 whom share in its benefits, from the wealthy owner of tens of 
 thousands of trees to the humble possessor of a tithe of one. 
 There are few gifts of the earth about which so much may 
 be said; its uses are infinite, and to the Sinhalese villager all 
 sufficient. " With the trunk of the tree he builds his hut and 
 his bullock-stall, which he thatches with its leaves. His bolts 
 and bars are slips of the bark, by which he also suspends the 
 small shelf which holds his stock of home-made utensils and
 
 307. MR. W. H. WRIGHTS COCOArJUT E-rTATL ^;JL BUNGALOW AND GARDEN. 
 
 308. THE DRYING CHAMBERS.
 
 309. COCOANUT SEEDLINGS. 
 
 310. BASKET CAGES FOR SOAKING THE HUSKS.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 221 
 
 vessels. Ht- fences his little plot of chillies, tobacco and fine Main Line 
 grain, with the leaf stalks. The infant is swung to sleep in a/im>;<iih.i 
 a rude net of coir-string made from the husk of the fruit ; its 
 meal of rice and scraped cocoanut is boiled over a fire of cocoa- i'scso/the 
 nut shells and husks, and is eaten off a dish formed of the '^'"^"'""'' 
 plaited green leaves of the tree with a spoon cut out of the 
 nut-shell. When he goes fishing by torch-light his net is of 
 cocoanut fibre, the torch or chule is a bundle of dried cocoanut 
 leaves and flower-stalks ; the little canoe is the trunk of the 
 cocoa-palm tree, hollowed by his own hands. He carries home 
 his net and string of fish on a yoke, or pingo, formed of a 
 cocoanut stalk. When he is thirsty, he drinks of the fresh 
 juice of the young nut; wiien he is hungry, he eats its soft 
 kernel. If he have a mind to be merry, he sips a glass of 
 arrack, distilled from the fermented juice, and he flavours his 
 curry with vinegar made from this toddy. Should he be sick, 
 his body will be rubbed with cocoanut oil ; he sweetens his 
 coff"ec with jaggery or cocoanut sugar, and softens it with 
 cocoanut milk ; it is sipped by the light of a lamp constructed 
 from a cocoanut shell and fed by cocoanut oil. His doors, his 
 windows, his shelves, his chairs, the water gutter under the 
 eaves, are all made from the wood of the tree. His spoons, 
 his forks, his basins, his mugs, his salt-cellars, his jars, his 
 child's money-box, are all constructed from the shell of the nut. 
 Over his couch when born, and over his grave when buried, a 
 bunch of cocoanut blossom is hung to charm away evil 
 spirits. "* 
 
 The marvellous bounty of the cocoanut palm has been grace- 
 fully summarised by the poet as 
 
 " clothing, meat, trencher, drink, and can, 
 Boat, cable, sail, mast, needle, all in one." 
 
 As an object of commerce cocoanut oil, of which upwards Extort of oU 
 of 5,000,000 gallons are annually exported, holds the first "'" ^ '' 
 place. Next in importance is the fibre of the husk known as 
 coir. This is exported to the extent of about 10,000 tons 
 annually. Machinery enters to a small extent into its pre- 
 paration ; but primitive methods are still in vogue, especially 
 on the coast. In the backwaters cages or basket-work en- 
 closures constructed of thin bamboo arc placed as seen in our 
 illustration (Plate 310) and into these the husks are thrown 
 and left to ferment in the brackish water, after which they are 
 taken out, dried in the sun and the fibre beaten free by women 
 and children. The export of (-oprah (the dried kernel of the 
 nuts) amounts annually to about 375,000 cut., while that of 
 
 * This charminp description of the Sinhalese villaRcr's necessities sup- 
 plied by this bountiful palm is from the pen of the late Mr. John Capper
 
 222 THE BOOK OF CEYLOX 
 
 Main Line the desiccated nut ior coiircctioncry amounts to upwards of 
 Mtrif;aiiia i6,ooo,ooo Ibs. I'lom this rccital ol fig^ures it will be rig^htly 
 surmised that a very small proportion of the annual yield of 
 nuts leave the country in their natural state, nearly all the 
 export trade bein^ in manufactured products. One thousand 
 millions is a reasonable estimate of the year's supply of cocoa- 
 nuts in Ceylon, about two fifths of which are exported in the 
 form of oil, coprah, confectionery and husked fruit, the re- 
 mainder being- consumed by the population chiefly as food and 
 drink. 
 Cococinut In Colombo there are mills containing machinery (jf the 
 
 """^ most powerful and ingenious character for the expression of 
 
 the oil from the cocoanuts. Their design and construction are 
 the jealously guarded secret of the firms who own them, and 
 a mystery to the general public; but the " chekku " or Sin- 
 halese mill illustrated by plate 311 will not escape the notice 
 of the stranger. There are about three thousand of them in 
 The chekku Ceylon. This primitive apparatus consists of a large mortar, 
 generally of hewn stone, but sometimes of iron or wood, with 
 a pestle worked by a lever which is drawn in a circle by a pair 
 of bullocks. The lever is simply the straight trunk of a tree 
 trimmed at the root end in such fashion as to fit a groove in 
 the mortar around which it works. The pestle is so shaped 
 and is attached to the lever in such a manner that the circular 
 movement of the bullocks results in grinding and pressing the 
 coprah or dried kernels in the mortar, causing the oil to flow 
 out at the vent which is visible in our picture. The wretched 
 bullocks are often overworked, for the Sinhalese, though 
 usuallv kind and even indulgent to children, do not exhibit 
 these qualities in their treatment of the lower animals. The 
 rude construction of the apparatus, weighted at the end of 
 the lever with roughly hewn rocks upon which the scantily 
 clad driver disports himself, and the car-splitting creaks of the 
 timber as the poor little bullocks communicate motion to the 
 pestle bv means of their humps form one of those typical 
 Oriental scenes which have not changed for a thousand years, 
 and victoriously hold their own against the innovations of the 
 foreigner ex'cn in this age of scientific appliances. 
 
 Verv different from the cattle kept by the poor villager 
 are the magnificent animals met with on some of the large 
 estates. The specimen introduced in plate 312 was photo- 
 graphed on the estate of Mr. W. H. Wright, at Mirigama, 
 through whose courtesy I have been able to illustrate the 
 bungalow', garden, drying chambers, seedlings and trees in 
 full bearing, as exemplifving cocoanut cultivation on a large 
 scale. 
 
 The average yield per annum of a cocoanut tree is about
 
 311. THE CHEKKU OR OIL MILL. 
 
 312. 
 
 _AVY DRAUGHT-BULL.
 
 313. A PROLIFIC TREE. 
 
 314. A COOOANUT GROVE. 
 
 315. A CROP OF COCOANUTS.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 225 
 
 fifty nuts, but exceptionally prolific trees are common enough Main Line 
 on well cultivated plantations, and of these the yield may .Uiii»,<i"i.i 
 reach one hundred and fifty or more. A specimen is gi\en in 
 plate 313. It will be obser\ed that at least fifty nuts are clearly 
 \isible, and as many more are hidden from view. The yield Prolific trtes 
 of this fine tree must be upwards of two hundred in the year. 
 The nature of the soil and the method of cultivation doubtless 
 account for difference in crop as they do in other branches of 
 agriculture. 
 
 The stranger from Europe often makes his first close 
 acquaintance with the unhusked cocoanut at the railway stations 
 of Ceylon, where little brown urchins, with hatchet in one 
 hand and in the other several nuts suspended by stalks, 
 perambulate the platforms shouting " Kurumba, Kurumba." Kummba 
 The thirsty traveller is thus invited to drink the water of the 
 fresh cocoanut, which is at once wholesome, cool and refresh- 
 ing. Many Europeans add an ounce of whiskey to the pint of 
 water which the kurumba contains and declare that thus adul- 
 terated it is a drink for the gods. It is also regarded by many 
 as an excellent preventive of gout. The convenience of the 
 beverage when travelling in this thirsty country is great; for 
 one has but to shout " Kurumba," when for a few cents some 
 obliging native is generally found ready and willing to ascend 
 a tree and bring down the grateful nut. 
 
 After the water has been drawn off milk may be obtained 
 from the fresh nut by grating the soft white kernel and squeez- 
 ing the pulp thus obtained in a cloth. 
 
 When we see the size of the unhusked cocoanut and feel 11, , skint; iiu 
 its weight we are not a little surprised to learn that the usual ""'^ 
 rate for stripping the nuts of the husk is fifty cents or eight- 
 pence per thousand. A cooly accustomed to the work will 
 husk a thousand in twelve hours, a hard day's work for any 
 man, and more than a European labourer would like to do for 
 the money. A pointed crowbar is placed upright in the ground 
 and with singular dexterity the cooly brings down the nut upon 
 the point, and pressing it obliquely, tears off the husk with 
 a jerk. The fresh undried nut is used only as food introduced 
 into curries or puddings, the nuts intended for coprah, desic- 
 cating, or shipping whole being dried for some two or three 
 weeks before being husked or otherwise treated. 
 
 At Mirigama the traveller is accommodated in a neat little r.oial 
 rest-house containing four bedrooms and the usual dining hall """'""«"•''«'"•" 
 and verandahs. It is situated a mile from the railway station 
 in an elevated position commanding beautiful scenery. l'"ood 
 can be obtained here without being ordered in advanci-. (iood 
 hackeries can be hired at twenty-five cents or fourf)ence a miU". 
 
 The manufactures comprise baskets, such furniture .'ind
 
 226 
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Ambepussa 
 
 l?,2fcct 
 
 Main Line bullock-con vcyanccs as are required for local use, and desic- 
 Mirigama catcd cocoaiiut to the extent of about one hundred tons a 
 month. There are plumbago mines in the district from which 
 about one hundred and fifty tons per month are despatched by 
 rail. Betel leaf is also grown for the supply of distant markets 
 to the extent of about six tons per month. The goods and 
 passenger traffic at Mirigama testify to a very nourishing 
 district — about 70,000 passengers and 8,000 tons of freight 
 bringing a total income of about 100,000 rupees. 
 Antiquities The antiquities of the district consist of I^uddhist iviht'tres 
 
 of \arving periods, the most interesting being the Maladeniya, 
 three and a half miles from the railway station. This, like 
 so many others, is built upon a rock three hundred feet high 
 and commands a good view. It is said to date from the reign 
 of Walagambahu in the first century B.C. 
 
 At Mirigama the foot-hills that surround the mountain zone 
 begin to appear and the Maha-oya flows gracefully amongst 
 them, adding considerable charm to the landscape. 
 
 Ambepussa (34m. 45c.). — Ambepussa possesses the general 
 characteristics of Mirigama, and these need not be again 
 described ; but the area served by the railway station is not so 
 large. The village from which it derives its name is four miles 
 away upon the old highway to Kandv, whereas the station in 
 reality is situated in the village of Keendeniya. Ambepussa was 
 a place of importance in earlier times, and owns a rest-house 
 more than usually capacious, built upon an eminence over- 
 looking charming country and possessing extensive grounds. 
 It is, however, essential for the traveller to give notice of his 
 intended arrival if he is likely to require provisions. The 
 country here becomes more mountainous and the Maha-oya runs 
 a wild and tortuous course. The climate is exceedingly hot. 
 Good snipe shooting is to be had from November to February 
 as well as hare, wild boar and deer. 
 
 Alawwa Alawwa (40m. 24c.). — Alawwa is one of the least important 
 
 igofect of the main line stations. The scenery, however, becomes more 
 
 varied in character as we pass through this district. The 
 railway runs parallel to the Maha-oya, which affords oppor- 
 tunities to the snap-shotter ; for there are many exquisite vistas 
 between the clumps of bamboo that decorate the banks ; and 
 with the present day rapid lenses and focal-plane-shutters 
 photography from a moving train is not impossible, as manv 
 of the illustrations in this Aolume prove. Before the railway 
 opened up this district to cultivation it was so malarious that 
 it is said that every sleeper laid took its toll of a human life, 
 so terrible was the death rate from the fever-laden miasma of 
 some of the tracts of jungle-land that had to be penetrated.
 
 
 im^ %
 
 THK HOOK OF CICVLOX 229 
 
 POLGAHAWELA (45111. 34c.). Polgaluiwcla is thc junction Main Line 
 
 station for the northern line. Passenj^ers are afforded every i^KiKaiiuN^ciu 
 facility for comfort. There is also a rest-house quite near the -^' ''" 
 station fitted with bedrooms and provided with lii^ht refresh- 
 ments. The agriculture of the district is the same as described 
 in connection with Mirigama, with the considerable addition of 
 plantains, which arc grown here extensively for markets which 
 are brought into reach by thc railway, about one hundred and 
 fifty tons being despatched in the course of each month. This 
 station serves the large and important district of Kegalle, thc Kfnalu 
 distance to the town of Kegalle being ten miles in a southerly 
 direction, and to which there is a mail-coach service conveying 
 liuropean passengers for a fare of two rupees. The traveller 
 who is intending to see all the most interesting and beautiful 
 places in Ceylon should not omit Kegalle from his itinerary. 
 It proxides a pleasant excursion from Kandy either by motor 
 car or by rail to Polgahawela and thence by coach. The 
 situation of the town is lovely and the scenery by which it 
 is encompassed is exquisite, while the antiquities scattered 
 throughout the district are too numerous to mention here.* 
 One of the most interesting, however, is so near to Polgaha- .1 «i/i./ni7iVs 
 wela, being only two and a half miles distant on thc coach 
 road to Kegalle, that some reference to it must be made. This 
 is an old liuddhist temple known as Wattarama, built in the 
 third century and endowed with the lands and villages around 
 it t)\ King (iothabhaya. Its age is attested no less by ancient 
 writings and traditions than by the interesting remains. 
 
 Besides the ruins of the original edifice, consisting of large 
 monolith pillars and various steps and door-frames, there is a 
 group of buildings of various later dates composed partly of 
 ancient materials. 
 
 About a mile from the rail\\a\- station at Galbodagamakaiida 
 may be seen twelve granite pillars, the only remains of a 
 beautiful palace said to have been built by King Hhuwenakc 
 Balui 11., in a.d. 1319, for his sixty-seven beautiful queens! 
 
 .\ large number of Talipot Palms are to be seen between Taittoi M»ii 
 Polgahawela ajid Kandy; and fortunate will the traveller be 
 who happens to pass through this distrii t when a large number 
 of them are in flower. The botanical world offers no more 
 b(;autiful sight tlian this. The ixriod w lien it may be enjoyed 
 is, however, f|uitc iiiiccilain, as the llowcr bursts lorth once 
 only in the liletiiiie of the tree when it is approaching its 
 hundredth vear. It occasionallv happens that scores of trees 
 
 * The antiquarian who explores this district should provide himself with 
 a copy of the " Keport on the KOualle district" by the Arch.xoIoRical 
 Commissioner ; obtainable at the Government Record Office, Colombo ; 
 price, six rupees.
 
 ■30 
 
 THE ROOK OF CKVLOX 
 
 Main Line 
 
 Rambukkana 
 
 Scenery of the 
 ^ass 
 
 are in flower at one time, while at another not one may be 
 seen. We shall fully discuss the characteristics and uses of 
 this queen of palms when we reach Peradeniya. It may, how- 
 e\er, be observed here that its leaves are much used in the 
 construction of camps for the ollicers of the Survey Depart- 
 ment, and th(; supplies for this purpose are mainly drawn from 
 the neig^hbourhood of Polgahawela. 
 
 R A.MBiKK.WA (52m. lie). — At Rambukkana the ascent into 
 the Kandyan mountains begins, and the beauty of the land- 
 scape approaches the sublime. If Ceylon presented no other 
 spectacle of interest to the traveller it would still be worth his 
 while to visit Kandy if only to see the panorama that unfolds 
 itself as the train moves upward in its winding and intricate 
 course on the scarped sides of the mountains overlooking the 
 lovely Dckanda valley. Two powerful engines are now attached 
 to our train, one at either end, and so sharp are the curves that 
 it is frequently possible for the passenger seated in the train 
 to see both ; or from his seat to take a photograph including 
 in the landscape a large portion of the train in which he is 
 travelling, as in plate 326. At one moment, on the edge of 
 a sheer precipice, we are gazing downwards some thousand 
 feet below ; at another we are looking upwards at a mighty 
 crag a thousand feet above ; from the zigzags by which we 
 climb the mountain sides fresh views appear at every turn ; 
 far-reaching valleys edged by the soft blue ranges of distant 
 mountains and filled with luxuriant masses of dense forest, 
 relieved here and there by the vivid green terraces of the rice 
 fields ; cascades of lovely flowering creepers, hanging in fes- 
 toons from tree to tree and from crag to crag ; above and below 
 deep ravines and foaming waterfalls dashing their spray into 
 mist as it falls into the verdurous abyss ; fresh mountain peaks 
 appearing in ever-changing grouping as we gently wind along 
 the steep gradients ; daring crossings from rock to rock, so 
 startling as to unnerve the timid as we pass over gorges cleft 
 in the mountain side and look upon the green depths below, so 
 near the edge of the vertical precipice that a fall from the 
 carriage would land us sheer sixteen hundred feet below; the 
 lofty Talipot is flourishing on either side ; the scattered huts 
 and gardens, and the quaint people about them, so primitive 
 in their habits which vary little from those of two thousand 
 years ago — these are some of the features of interest as we 
 journey into the Kandyan district. 
 
 The precipitous mountain of Allagalla which we illustrate 
 by plate 325 is the most conspicuous feature of the landscape. 
 Our train creeps along upon its steep side of granite. The 
 track is visible in our picture (Plate 324) like a belt passing
 
 ' Av /Y.(// >:> I.'. 
 
 324. SLNbATION ROCK.
 
 325, ALLAGALLA. THE STREAK OF FIRE. 
 
 326. THE REAR OF THE TRAIN WHILE IN MOTION. PHOTOGRAPHED FROM A 
 CARRIAGE WINDOW NEAR THE FRONT ENGINE.
 
 THK BOOK OF CK^LOX 233 
 
 around the rock. The peak towers aloft ::,500 feet abo\e us. Main i.ine 
 while the beautilul vail; y lies a thousand feet below. On the -'•••'^''•"' 
 far side of that peak lies Hataraliyadda, a warm but radiant 
 valley, where primeval manners and customs are yet unin- 
 fluenced by the march of western civilisation. .\ i^lam-e at our 
 illustrations of this district, which can be found bv reference 
 to the index, will enable us, as it were, to look round the 
 corner; but further rt'fercnce to Ilataralivadda will come later. 
 
 .\llat4alla is always majestic, but most btautiful immediately 
 after excessive rainfall, when it is litci'alh' b(■^prinkle(l with 
 cataracts, some of which burst forth many hundreds of feet 
 above the railway, and dash into the valleys some thousand feet 
 below, increasing; in \ olumc and slathering enormous impetus 
 as they pass under the line in deep fissures. The heii^ht of 
 Allayalla is 3,394 feet. Tea o^rows upon its steep acclivities, 
 and those who are occupied in its cultivation on these s^iddv 
 heii^hts are enviable spectators of the most varied and beautiful 
 atmospheric scenes that are to be found in Ceylon. L'nsettled 
 weather is extremely frequent and is productive of an endless 
 variety of cloud and storm effects over the wonderful valley 
 which undulates below until in the far distance it is bai-ked by 
 the rui,''ged mountains opposed to Allagalla and which reach 
 a ^"reater heiijhf. At one time a Aast sea of mists is rollini^- 
 in fleecy clouds o\ er the lowland acres and the summits of the 
 hills are standing- out from it like wooded islands; at another 
 every shape of the beautiful landscape is faultlesslv defined 
 and e\ery colour is \i\id beneath the tropical sun; then an 
 hour or two will pass and rolling masses of dense black vapours 
 will approach the mountain while the sunbeams plav on the 
 distant hills ; now the sun becomes obscured, a streak of lire 
 (Plate 323) flashes through the black mass and immediately the 
 wholi- mountain seems shaken by the terrific peal of thunder — 
 thunder of a quality that would turn an\- unaccustomed heart 
 pale. Then follows a downpour at the rate of a full inch an 
 hour; the cascades turn to roaring cataracts, the drv paths to 
 rushing torrents and the ri\ulets to raging floods. The rice-fields 
 suddenly become transformed into lakes and the appearance of 
 the \alleys suggests considerable devastation bv water; but 
 it is not so : the torrent passes away almost as suddenlv as 
 it comes, and the somewhat bruised and battered vegetation 
 freshens and bursts into new life as the hea\v pall of purple 
 cloud disperses and the i^leams of the golden sun return to 
 cheer its efforts. That tea or anything else should grow on 
 these rocky slopes is one of the mar\els of this wonderful land. 
 
 Our attention will perhaps be mostly attracted to the 
 Dekanda \alley (Plate 327). The terraced rice-lields, the be.uifi- 
 ful trees, plants and creepers upon the slopes bene.ith u^, ttii-
 
 234 'I'll'. I'.ooK ()!• (•i:\i.c)n; 
 
 Miiin Line (list;iiit ni< Ml M I ;i ills lisiiii^ in licrs on .ill sides ;in(l (j'crhung with 
 xiipouis uliosc lonns ;in(! lontrasts ol tone I rom the deepest 
 black to the pursst w liilc :iic ahiiost al\v;i\s iiresent, the curious 
 shapes displayed by the heii^hts, the Camel Rock, the Bible 
 
 L'lui.-aiikaiuia Rot I< and L'tuwankaiida— all these contribute to make our slow 
 j)rot;ress sccni all too rapid. L'tuwankanda, the curious crag 
 obserx'ablc in plate ^27, and a clos ■ \ iew ol which is given in 
 plate 3i(), was in the early sixties the stronghold ol a famous 
 Sinhalese bandit, who lor years terrorised the district, and 
 whose exploits in robber}- and murder have already reached the 
 legendarv stage. Sardiel was of small stature and one would 
 ha\e ex]iectecl an ordinary boy of fourteen to prove his match. 
 Originall\- a barrack boy in Colombo, detected in theft, he fled 
 and adopted robbery as a profession. He appears to have 
 gathered around him some kindred spirits, and to have fixed 
 on Utuwankanda as his home. He was dreaded by Europeans 
 and nati\-es alike, showing marvellous resource in stealing arms 
 and ammunition and using them with deadlv effect in his 
 nefarious expeditions. After he had so terrorised the district 
 that no contractor would undertake the transit of goods from 
 Colombo to Kandy without an escort, a reward of ;£'ioo w'as 
 offered for his apprehension. The police were powerless against 
 him. He shot six of them on a single occasion. At length 
 he was taken by Mr. 1-". R. Saunders (now Sir Frederick 
 Saunders), then district judge of Kegalle, who, accompanied 
 by some men of the Ceylon Rifles, fearlessly entered his strong- 
 hold. His career ended in his execution by hanging at Kandv. 
 We are now in the freshness of mountain air and have left 
 behind us the steamy low-country, where the simmering heat, 
 although the efficient cause of the beautiful features of the 
 landscape, is nevertheless very trying to our energies. For 
 thirteen miles we have l^een slowl\- crawling round the moun- 
 tain sides, ever mo\ing upwards, till at length, through a 
 narrow pass, we emerge upon one of those ledges of the 
 mountain system which were referred to in the introductorv 
 part of this work. There also we saw how the brave Kandvans 
 held their capital for centuries against all the attempts of 
 
 Ananciaii Europeans to take it. There was an ancient prophecv current 
 
 fuijwcii amongst them that whoever should pierce the rock and make 
 
 a road into Kandy from the plains would receive the kingdom 
 as his reward. The prophecy was at length fulfilled by the 
 British, who made the road, pierced the rock and secured the 
 safe and permanent possession of the prize. The scene of the 
 exploit is now before us. From the train we may see the road 
 and the pierced rock as illustrated by our plate. The eminence 
 rising above this rock is known as' Scouts' Hill from the cir- 
 cumstance that the Kandyans jealously guarded this gate to
 
 » 
 
 
 ^- 
 
 
 ^^ ^ 
 
 1 
 
 ] 
 
 1 
 
 « 
 
 
 -*-^ 
 
 y^^y -,?-■- 
 
 V. 
 
 .^j^^^^^^^^^^^^^^i 
 
 
 ^^^H|^^£ 
 
 
 
 -n 
 
 *^' ,i 
 
 327. THE DEKANDA VALLEY. 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHED FROM THE TRAIN WHILE 
 IN MOTION. 
 
 328. THE FULFILMENT OF A PROPHECY.
 
 329-336. ROAD SCENES AT KADUGANNAWA.
 
 THK 1U)()K Ol' tl-:\!.()\ 237 
 
 their kingdom with their forces always in readiness, should an Main Line 
 enemy appear from the low-country. luich inhabitant was 
 subject to sentinel duty and thousands were kept at posts over- 
 looking the plains around, many even ha\ing to keep their 
 watch on the tops of trees commanding extensive views of the 
 whole country round, so that no person could get either in 
 or out of the kingdom unobserved and without permission. 
 Indeed, so jealous were the apprehensions of the Kandyan 
 monarch when the British appeared in Ce\ Ion that a strict 
 system of passports from one district to another was adopted. 
 
 The lofty column observable in our plate comes into view The Dauson 
 as a signal that we have arrived at the top of the pass. Both """"'"""' 
 road and rail here converge and make their entrance into the 
 Kandvan country together, the road being most picturesque at 
 its entrance to Kadugannawa (Plate 33S). The monument is 
 not, as is often supposed, in commemoration of the introduction 
 of the railway, but a memorial to Captain Dawson of the Royal 
 Engineers, who planned and superintended the construction of 
 the road. It was erected by public subscription in 1832. 
 
 Kadugannawa (65m.) — At Kadugannawa we are at once in Kadui^annawa 
 most interesting Kandyan country, its chief attractions to us iXxjojui 
 being the singular beauty of the road scenery and the historical 
 temples in the district. Plate 337 has for its subject the bazaar 
 and the railway near the station. Nos. 329 to 336 and 339 are 
 introduced to give some idea of the character of the road 
 between Kadugannawa and Peradeniya. It will be noticed 
 that the railway runs parallel to this road in se\'eral places, the 
 photographs being taken to illustrate both road and rail. 
 
 Xow that we have reached the region where both climate 
 and opportunitv combine in offering inducements to the tra- 
 veller to visit the interesting vilu'ires, pansahis and ilc7i'ciles 
 which arc so closely associated with Buddhist life and thought 
 in Ceylon, it is fitting to pause for a moment for the definition 
 of terms with which we must now become familiar. 
 
 Wihi'irc literally and strictly means a tc-mple of TUiddlia with iri7i,/r« 
 an altar o\er which is placed an image of the Buddha. In 
 general use, howcxcr, the term inchides three or four buildings : 
 the pansala, or abode of the priests ; the da i^tiha, or dome-shai^ed 
 monument, which usually enshrines some relic-; the bmllii- 
 nuilu'ii.ui, or platform and altar surrounding a sacred bo-tree, 
 and the wiht'trf or temple of the image. In large pansdJas, 
 accommodating a number ol monks, there is usuallv a pi'>y(i-!^c 
 or hall in which the monks recMte their confessions. To some 
 of the temples there is also attached a hiniii nuultiiiui , or pri-ach- 
 ing hall, where the Buddhist scriptures are read and exjiounded. 
 
 The history of the ileivnlc offers a striking example of the 
 adoption and absorption by a conquering religion of deities
 
 23H TIIIC IU)()K (^l- Ci:\'L()N 
 
 Main Line jircxloiisly in possession of the field. As Rome took tf) herself 
 /\"''"«^"""" • '' ni.iny ol I lie deities of the Hellenic world, and as e\cn later 
 "''''''''■'' relii^ious systems are not altof^ether untinetured by those they 
 
 lia\e superseded, so the victorious Kuddhism that invaded 
 Ceylon in the early part of the third century B.C. felt the in- 
 fluence of the Hindu gods worshipped by the earlier colonists 
 and by the 'J'amils who came into the island at a later date. 
 It was impossible, however, for the self-denying faith of Huddha 
 lo incorporate in its mild and humane cult repugnant features 
 of the dethroned faith. The only course then was to substitute 
 for their objectionable characteristics others more in conformity 
 with the precepts of Gotama. In this way Vishnu, the second 
 person of the Hindu trinity, becomes the tutelary deity of the 
 island, while the third person, Siva, adopted under the name 
 of Nata, is the Expected of the next KaJpa, the new Buddha 
 who is to reign in succession to the present. Kataragam, the 
 Hindu god of war, is honoured for the aid given by him to 
 Rama, when the latter invaded Ceylon and defeated the demon- 
 king Ravana in order to rescue Sita from captivity. To these 
 three deities, and to Pattini, the goddess of chastity, the 
 majority of the dewales will be found to be dedicated. 
 Aititituwarn ^he famous Alutnuwara deivale is about five and a half miles 
 
 on the Colombo side of Kadugannawa, the first four miles of 
 the journey being on the main road and the remaining part 
 b}- paths through gardens and fields. Unlike most dewales this 
 one is dedicated to the chief of all the Ceylon demons. It was 
 originally a Vishnu deivdie and its history dates from the reign 
 of Parakrama Bahu, a.d. 1267, tradition carrying it back some 
 centuries earlier. At the present day a hill is pointed out, near 
 the bridge which spans the Hingula Oya at the foot of the 
 Kadugannawa pass, upon the top of which Wahala Bandara 
 Deviyo, the dread demi-god, rested waiting until the present 
 deivdie was built, where he is believed still to reside. He is 
 said to have miraculously removed a massive rock, eight hun- 
 dred feet high, and to have cleared the ground for the erection 
 of the temple. At this day Bandara is greatly feared. 
 Pilgrims " Pilgrims from every part of the island repair to this temple 
 
 femons '' during all seasons of the year, hoping to get relief from some 
 demon influence, with which they suppose themselves to be 
 afflicted, and which appears to them to be irremovable by any- 
 other means. This is especially the case with those persons, 
 most frequently women, who are supposed to be possessed by a 
 demon. Dancing, singing, and shouting without cause, trem- 
 bling and shaking of the limbs, or frequent and prolonged 
 fainting fits are considered the most ordinary symptoms of 
 possession by a demon. Some women, when under this imagin- 
 ary influence, attempt to run away from their homes, often
 
 337. KADUGANNAWA. 
 
 338. ROAD SCENE ; ENTERING KADUGANNAWA.
 
 339. ROAD SCENE: KADUGANNAWA. 
 
 340. ROAD SCENE: KADUGANNAWA.
 
 THH IU)()K OI-" (•i:\ I.()\ J41 
 
 using- foul lan^Liai^c, and sometimes bilint^ and tcarintj their ■'^^"•n Line 
 hair and flesh. The fit does not s^-enerally last more than an hour K'''i"t:'i"nawa 
 at a time ; sometimes one lit suceeeds another at short intervals ; 
 sometimes it comes upon the woman only on Saturdays and 
 \V'ednesda\ s, 01- once in three or four months ; but always in- 
 variably during; the performance of anv {lemon ceremony. 
 
 " On these occasions temporarN relief is obtained by the in- 
 cantations of the Kdth'uliya ; but when it appears that no in- f/"''"'^""' 
 
 ■' ■ ' , . . ((llllOIIS 
 
 cantations can ellect a permanent cure, the only remammg- 
 remedy is to go to Cmln-liepu Dcnu'ilc, where the following scene 
 takes place. When the wcjman is within two or three miles of 
 the temple, the demon inniiciice is sui)p()sed to come on her, 
 and she walks in a wild, luinicd, desperatv- manner towards 
 the temple. When in this mood no one (-an stop her; if any 
 attempt it, she will tear herself to pieces rather than b.- stopped. 
 She walks faster and faster, as she comes nearer and nearer to 
 the holy place, until at last, on reaching it, she cither creeps 
 into a corner and sits there, crying and trembling, or remains 
 (juitc speechless and senseless, as if oxerpowered by extreme 
 fear, until the Kapic^'ii begins the exorcism. Sometimes she 
 walks to the tcm])le \tr\- quietly without any apparent influence 
 ol the demon on her, and that inlluenc seems to come upon 
 her onK' when the exorcism begins. 
 
 " The principal room of the temple is paititioned off by cur- 
 tains into three dixisions, the middle on ■ ol which is the 
 S(i)ulii))i sdiu'l (inini ol the god, as the demon chicl is generalK' 
 called. The KdpiiiiUi stands outside the outermost cnirtain with 
 the woman opposite to him. .After the offerings of money, betel 
 leaves, and siKcr ornaments have been devoutly and cere- 
 moniously laid in a sort of small box opposite to the Knpua'ti, 
 he tells the i^od, as if he were actually sitting behind the c-urtain 
 at the time, in a loud and com frsational tone, and not in the 
 singing ornamental st\lc ol iiuocations made to other gods 
 and demons, that (the woman) has come all the wa\' from 
 
 — (the \illag() , situated in (the korale or district), 
 
 to this tem|)lc for the |)urposc ol complaining to his godship 
 ol a certain demon or demons, who ha\t' been alllicting hi'r 
 ii)V the last — \cars; that she has made certain olferings to 
 the temple, and that she jMa\s most luimbK tli.il his godship 
 ma\ be gracioush' pleased to exorcise the demon, and ordi-r 
 him never to molest her again. In this wav he makes a long 
 speech, during whi( h the woman continues tremljling" and 
 shaking in the most xinkiit manner, sometimi'S uttering loud 
 shouts. I'resentK the Kitpiiwd puts to her the question, ' Wilt 
 thou, demon, (|uit this woman instanth, or shall I punish flie«' 
 for tlu' im|)udince ? ' To this she sometimes replies, still 
 trembling and shaking as before, ' ^ Cs, I will leave her for
 
 242 'iiii': i'.()()K oi" {'I•:^■F.o^■ 
 
 Muin Line ex cr ; ' hut moi'c j^ciicrally she :it lirsf r<lus:-s; when this 
 Kaiiui^anniin.i li;i|)|)(ns, tlic Kapuicd i^i'iisps ill liis lii^lit liaiicl a i^ood stout 
 (■;inc aiui beats her most mcrcik'ssly, rcpeatinj^ at the same 
 tinir liis question and threats. At last, after many blows ha\c 
 been IuIVk led, the woman replies ' Yes, I will leave her this 
 instant;' she then ceases to tremble and shake, and soon 
 recovers her reason, if indeed she had e\er lost it. .So slic and 
 her friends return home congratulating- themsehes on the happy 
 result of their journey — a result which is inxariably the same 
 in the case of e\'ery pilgrim to the temple. 
 Fingt;i>'fi " Wi' i^now iliirty or forty women who have made this pil- 
 
 thmoiis grmiage, only two oi whom have ever agam shown any symp- 
 
 toms of the return of demon possession. It is said that some 
 thirtv or forty years ago, especially during the time of the 
 Kandvan Kings, four bundles of canes were left at the temple 
 bv the Kapuwa every evening before he returned home; that 
 during the night loud shouts and cries and wailings were heard 
 proceeding from the temple, and that the next morning, instead 
 of bundles of canes, there were only small bits of them found 
 dispersed here and there in the premises, as if the canes had 
 been broken in flogging disobedient demons."* 
 Gmiaiadcniya ( radaladcniya is within easier reach of Kadugannawa. Two 
 
 and a half miles distant, upon the main road to Kandy, at a 
 place called Embilmigama, near the sixty-fifth mile stone from 
 Colombo, a pathway on the south side leads to a typical temple 
 \illage, three-quarters of a mile from the main road. Here on 
 a small hill will be found one of the most interesting and pic- 
 turesque ivihares in Ceylon, the Gadaladcniya. .A considerable 
 portion of the building is original and dates from .\.d. 1344. 
 A most pleasant excursion can be made to this temple bv 
 driving from Kandy, seven miles, or by rail to Kadugannawa, 
 and thence by hackery, the cost of which is thirty cents a mile. 
 This historical place is fully illustrated in plates 443, 461, 462 
 and 463, and an architectural description of it will be found on 
 pages 341 and 342. 
 Lankatiiaki The most bcautiful of all the Kandyan temples, the Lanka- 
 
 tilake, may be reached by continuing the bridle path for about 
 two and a half miles past Gadaladeniya. It is hoped that at 
 an early date this bridle path will be converted into a cart road, 
 when it will be possible to drive from Kandy to both these 
 ancient temples. Lankatilake may also be reached from Kandy 
 via Peradeniya Junction, four and a half miles, and thence bv 
 a minor road to Dawulagala, three and a half miles, after which 
 a footpath must be taken for the last mile. This temple is 
 illustrated b\- our frontispiece and plates 459 and 460; its 
 architecture is described on pages 337 and 338. 
 
 * Extract from the Diary of Mr. R. W. levers.
 
 341. VILLAGE HEADMEN : KADUGANNAWA. 
 
 342. SCENE AT KAi^We.,
 
 
 
 l» . I^^^L^^ ^Bl^^l 
 
 Si 
 
 
 
 1 :-.^ ■■^^^'■iiir 
 
 u 
 
 
 ^^^^Lj '"" ''^^^"^R^^^vD^K^Blr'^^^r^f^l^^^^B 
 
 p^M 
 
 
 1 
 
 343. IN A KANDYAN VILLAGE. 
 
 344. RODIYAS AT UDUGALPITI YA.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 245 
 
 Embekke dexvale is nearly a mile distant by bridle path from Main Line 
 Dawulag-ala. Architecturally this temple is very interesting;;^. See A'i./ii;,-.iM»ui-.i-a 
 plates 454, 447 and 450, and description on pa^cs 329 and 330. 
 
 Still another romantic and historical spot is to be reached 
 by turning off the main road at the same place, namely Embil- 
 mii^ama, about two and a half miles from Kadui^annawa, and 
 at the sixty-fifth mile stone from Colombo; but this time we 
 take the minor road on the north side leading to Siyambala- 
 goda (three miles), and from this village it is three-quarters of 
 a mile walk to Dodanwala Maha (/ciiwi/c, illustrated by plates 
 472 and 473, and described on page 330. 
 
 Between Kadugannawa and (iadaladeniya there is a small AvJn.ii 
 hamlet known as L'dugalpitiya occupied by Rodiyas, a tribe of 
 natives so degraded from time immemorial that even under 
 the present beneficent rule of the British they have been unable 
 to free themselves from the contempt and complete social 
 ostracism which have always been the portion meted out to them 
 by the rest of the native inhabitants of the country. Xo one 
 knows why these poor wretches, for perhaps thousands of years, 
 have been denied all compassion and treated with the utmost 
 inhumanity, yet the stigma is there, and under the syst.m of 
 go\ernment of nati\e communities through their own chiefs, 
 which in most respects is admitted to be wise and excellent, 
 the old prejudice is likely to remain. We can give no better 
 account of these miserable out(-asts than that of Tennent, 
 written half a century ago. 
 
 " They were not permitted to cross a ferry, to draw water 
 at a well, to enter a village, to till land, or learn a trade, as 
 no recognised caste could deal or hold intercourse with a 
 Rodiya. [-"ormerly they were not allowed to build houses with 
 two walls or a double roof, l)ut hovels in which a hurdle leaned 
 against a single wall and rested on the ground. Thev were 
 forced to subsist on alms or such gifts as they might receive 
 for protecting the fields from wild beasts or burving the car- 
 cases of dead cattle; but they were not allowed to come within 
 a fenced field e\ en to beg. They con\erted the hides of animals 
 into ropes, and prepared monkey-skins for covering tom-toms 
 and drums, which they bartered for food and other nei-essaries. 
 They were prohibited from wearing a cloth on their heads, and 
 neither men nor women were allowed to cover their bodies 
 above the waist or below the knee. If benighted they dare 
 not lie down in a shed appropriated to other travellers, but hid 
 themselves in caves or deserted watch-huts. They could not 
 enter a court of justice, and if wronged had to utter thiir com- 
 plaints from a distance. Though nominally Buddhists (but con- 
 jointly demon-worshippers), they were not allowed to go into 
 a temple, and could onl\- prav 'standing afar off.'
 
 J4<') rill'; H()()K Ol" CIINLOX 
 
 Mnin Line " Allli()in;li llicN \\(i(' permit 1 ccl to have a headman, wiio 
 
 hiiiiut^tiiiiuii.ii \\;,v^ styled their hollo-iiutlliia, his nomination was stig'matised by 
 Ko.iiyas requiring" the sanction of the common jaih)r, who was likewise 
 
 the sole medium of communication between the Rodiyas and 
 the rest of the human race. So \ile and valueless were they 
 in the eyes of the community, that, under the Kandyan rule, 
 when it was represented to the kins^- that the Rodiyas had so 
 multiplied as to be a nuisant-e to the villagers, an order was 
 gi\en to reduce their numbers by shooting- a certain proportion 
 in each kuppi\ame. The most dreaded of all punishments under 
 the Kandvan dynasty was to hand over the lady of a high caste 
 offender to the Ivodiyas ; and the mode of her adoption was by 
 the Rodiya taking betel from his own mouth and placing it in 
 hers, after which till death her degradation was indelible. 
 
 " Under the rule of the British, which recognises no dis- 
 tinction of caste, the status of the Rodiyas has been nominally, 
 and even materially, improved. Their disqualification for 
 labour no longer exists ; but after centuries of mendicancy and 
 idleness thev evince no inclination for work. Their pursuits 
 and habits are still the same, but their bearing is a shade less 
 servile, and they pay a profounder homage to a high than a 
 low caste Kandyan, and manifest some desire to shake off the 
 opprobrious epithet of Rodiyas. Their houses are better built, 
 and contain a few articles of furniture, and in some places they 
 have acquired patches of land and possess cattle. Even the 
 cattle share the odium of their owners, and to distinguish them 
 from the herds of the Kandyans, their masters are obliged to 
 suspend a cocoanut shell from their necks by a leathern cord. 
 "Socially their hereditary stigma remains unaltered; their 
 contact is still shunned by the Kandyans as pollution, and 
 instinctively the Rodiyas crouch to their own degradation. In 
 carrying a burden they still load the pingo (yoke) at one end 
 onlv, instead of both, like other natives. They fall on their 
 knees with uplifted hands to address a man of the lowest 
 recognised caste ; and they shout on the approach of a traveller 
 to warn him to stop till they can get off the road and allow 
 him to pass without the risk of too close a proximity to their 
 persons. " 
 
 It will be observed from our photograph that they now 
 avail themselves of some privileges that were denied under the 
 Kandyan kings. They have huts of mud walls and palm- 
 thatched roofs, while they do not now appear so scantily clad 
 as required in earlier times. To display their occupations some 
 are holding fish-snaring baskets, while one woman is in the act 
 of spinning a plate in evidence of their traditional art of 
 juggling. W'e shall notice also that they are people of no mean 
 physique, a feature that occasions us some surprise, considering
 
 345. ROAD SCENE: KADUGANNAWA 
 
 346. ROAD SCENE: KADUGANNAWA.
 
 
 
 HIMttg^, 
 
 •^&_j9|P ^3B& *> ''''' ^S!3 
 
 ^^^^^^^B^t^^^^^K^^m- 
 
 
 ^^^g 
 
 P^^H 
 
 H^H^B 
 
 ^^-==.^- ^IH 
 
 347. THE OLD SATINWOOD BRIDGE. 
 
 348. RAILWAY BRIDGE AT PERADENIYA.
 
 TIIi: BOOK Ol" Ci:\LO\ 
 
 249 
 
 their deprivations. Th^ir ancestry, ho\ve\er, ma\- indufle some 
 of the bluest of blood, in view of the old system of punishiiii; 
 hif^h caste offenders by casting; them into the ranks of the 
 Rodiyas. Sometimes one sees amons^st them women of con- 
 siderable beauty, but our group here given is taken haphazard, 
 and is fairly representative. 
 
 Kadugannawa is said to have been a health resort in earlier 
 times, and with its salubrious air, its good supply of pure spring 
 water, the grandeur of its scenery and its proximity to interest- 
 ing places it is still deserving the attention of Kandyans as a 
 charmiiiir sul:)urb. 
 
 Main Line 
 
 Peradcnivu 
 Junction 
 
 Peraileniya 
 New 
 
 Pkradkniva JixcTioN (70m. 4hc.). — Here the fast trains of 
 the main line are di\ided ; the Kandy and Matale portion pro- 
 ceeding northwards, and the Handarawela part to the south '-saiy"' 
 with the passengers for Xuwara Eliya and the Uva country. 
 Proceeding in the Kandy train we next come to 
 
 Pi:radeniy.\ New (70m. 8()c.). — Upon approaching this 
 station we cross the Mahaweliganga (the great sandy ri\er) 
 by the bridge seen in plate ^4<S. As we cross this bridge we 
 get the view presented by plate 347; it will, however, be ob- 
 served that a modern stone bridge has now replaced the his- 
 torical satin-wood bridge which for threescore years and ten 
 was a conspicuous and beautiful ornameiit in the landscape. 
 This bridge was a remarkable structure; it crossed the river 
 with a single span, in which there was neither nail nor bolt, 
 the whole of the massive woodwork being dovetailed together. 
 It was constructed entirely of beautiful yellow satin-wood, w hich 
 fifty years ago was so plentiful in the forests of Ceylon that 
 it was commonly used for building purposes. The present 
 structure is of pleasing design, and is perhaps the most orna- 
 mental bridge in Ceylon, but it lacks the a.'Sthetic qualities of 
 its predecessor. Under normal conditions the river llows fully 
 seventy feet below the bridge, but at the burst of the monsoon 
 such a mighty torrent rolls between the banks (hat the bridge 
 then clears the water by about ten feet only. 
 
 Peradeniya New is the station for the Royal Botanic 
 Gardens of Peradeniya, world-famed for their usefulness and 
 their beauty. Here, in a situation perfectly ideal from whatever 
 point of view it is regarded, is a marvellous collection of living 
 specimens of the flora of the whole tropical world, as well as 
 a great herbarium and museum of Ceylon plants. The term 
 Royal Botanic (lardens, howewr, stands for something vastly 
 more important than the great show-|)lace of floral wonders 
 which has gained their wide repute. l-Vom their inception a 
 century ago they have been organised to foster and assist 
 agricultural enterprise; but in recent years the scope of their 
 
 R 
 
 Pcradtntya 
 Cuir ileus
 
 250 I III- liOOK OF CKVLOX 
 
 Main Line usefulness ill this direction has been so widened and developed 
 lunui.niy.i that the title now indicates a g-ovcrnment department of botanv 
 
 (ill I'lli'US • > . , . ,' 
 
 and aj^riculture presided over by a director and staff of scientific 
 specialists in botany, chemistry, mycology and entomology, 
 under whose direction all agricultural possibilities are put to 
 the test and experimental culture carried on in various parts 
 of the country. 'I'hus not only are all useful and ornamental 
 trees and plants of other countries introduced into the colony, 
 but technical and scientific advice and instruction are given as 
 to every condition that makes for success in culture, in the 
 treatment and prevention of diseases of plant life and the 
 destruction and prevention of insect pests. In no country 
 is more assistance for agriculturists provided by the Govern- 
 ment, whose attitude to the native is truly paternal ; for it 
 supplies him with seeds, advice and instruction, free of cost; 
 it cares for his prosperity ; finds out what it is desirable for 
 him to grow and experiments upon the product for him ; advises 
 him upon every point, and periodically enquires how he is 
 getting on. 
 Wayside The Gardens are rather under four miles from Kandy, and 
 
 Pcrmiatint the visitor has choice of road or rail. If he chooses the former 
 the drive to and from Peradeniya will not be the least interesting 
 part of the excursion ; for the road is not only exceedingly 
 picturesque, as may be gathered by a glance at plates 349, 350 
 and 354, but presents many quaint scenes. The variety and 
 aspect of the native dwellings, some squalid, others with con- 
 siderable pretensions to luxury ; but all nestling amidst glorious 
 shrubs, trees and creepers, and having their own little gardens 
 prolific of papaws, curry seeds, garlic, pepper, pumpkins, cocoa 
 and sweet potatoes — all in wild profusion. Some are em- 
 bowered in bread-fruit trees, the foliage of which is in marked 
 contrast to the waving plumes of the cocoanut and other palms 
 amongst which it grows. The fruit, which is very abundant, 
 grows in large green pods, about the size of melons, which 
 nestle beneath each separate crown of leaves. It is used as 
 food by the natives in various preparations ; but Is, as a rule, 
 disliked by Europeans. Swarms of little brown urchins frolic 
 on the roadside, and add not a little to the picturesqueness of 
 the scene. Pingo bearers walk to and fro with their burdens 
 of fruit and vegetables representing manv varieties quite strange 
 to us. The pingo is a long and flat piece of wood from the 
 kitul palm, very tough and pliable. The cooly, having sus- 
 pended his load to the two ends in baskets or nets, places the 
 stave upon his shoulder at the middle, and is thus enabled by 
 the clastic spring and easy balance of the pingo to carry great 
 weights for a considerable distance. Some pingos are made 
 from the leaf-stalk of the cocoanut palm, which is even more
 
 tP>MENTSr/,r/o 
 
 ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS, 
 PERADENIYA.
 
 THE ROOK OF ^r•:^■LO\ 25;, 
 
 pliable than thv kitul. This is a favourite means of carrying '^■'" L'"* 
 
 liquids, phued in earthenware chatties attached to the pingo ''"•'•''^"O'* 
 
 by means of coir. Another familiar roadside character is the 
 
 i^ram vendor. She sits patiently duiino- the j^reater part of 
 
 the dav selling gram 1)\ the half-ccnrs worth to passers-bv. H'avsiV' 
 
 As might be conjet-tured from tlu' size of the little bamboo 
 
 measure (see plate 351) the gram is sold in \-ery small quantities 
 
 as a delicacy. It resembles dried peas in appearance, and tastes 
 
 rather like them. The village sihcrsmith will also attract our 
 
 attention as we pass along the road ; for he works serenelv 
 
 ill his open shed with tools of his own construction, and 
 
 for his furnacx' a couple of simple nati\e-made earthenware- 
 
 bowls. He does a roaring trade in anklets, nose-rings, bangles 
 
 and earrings, converting the siKcr savings of the modest 
 
 villager into these articles and securing them upon limbs or 
 
 features, where tluy continue to represent savings and to 
 
 gratify vanity until an c\ il (la\- comes w lien thev are remoxcd 
 
 by the same hands to ])c sold and transferred to another thrift\- 
 
 and x'ain person. This modest worker is more skilful than his 
 
 primitive methods would lead you to suppose, and can convert 
 
 your gold or siKcr coins into useful articles of jewellery while 
 
 vou wait, and wait \()U should, lest bv accident the qualitx 
 
 of your metal should deteriorate. 
 
 Another thing which the stranger will notice upon this road 
 is the temporary Huddbist shrine, erect<(! to receive offerings 
 from the de\out wa\farer. It is frequently a very modest erec- 
 tion, consisting of a chair suimountcd by a frame of bamboo 
 sticks, covered with a lew strips of calico, forming a canop\' 
 within which is ])laced a small image of Buddha and a bowl for 
 offerings ; at the i-losc of the dav the offerings are ("on\Tvrd to 
 the Temple of the Tooth at Kandy. 
 
 For obvious reasons we cannot describe here all the 
 thousand and one things whii h seize the attention of the 
 traveller upon this interesting road. A day should be given 
 to Peradeni\a by every visitor who stays suilicientlv long in 
 Kandy to afford it. The best time to set out is the carlv 
 morning. There is an excx'llent rest-house near the entrance 
 to the gardens where breakfast and lumh may be obtained. 
 
 I h(' gardens are situati'd within a loop made bv the K<'y«> , 
 Mahaweliganga, which forms :\ peninsula of about a mile in carJtns 
 length with a minimum briadth of six hundri'd yards. The 
 enclosure covers one hundred and fifty acres, and the elevati(Mi 
 above sea-level is 1,600 feet. The general configuration will 
 be seen by a glance at our plan. The facilities for inspecting 
 the plants could scarcely be Improved upon, and althoui^h the 
 greatest enjoyment will generally fall to the pedestrian. I In- 
 roads ()\i'r which drixing is permissible allord good opportuni-
 
 J 54 
 
 liOOK Ol- CI-:VLON 
 
 Miiin Line ties for tliosc who lil<c to take their plrasurcs hizily. In two 
 rnairniyci part Icuhirs only is there need for some Httle prceaution : do 
 '"'"'''"' not enter thickets or overg-rown places where you have not 
 
 ;i clcir \icw of ihc ground you tread, for there are snakes 
 lli;il might not regard you as a friend if trodden upon 
 unawares; but which would not be aggressive if encountered 
 in the open and given reasonable notice of your coming. The 
 pretty snakes that may be seen in the trees are harmless and 
 may be approached. The other precaution is that you must 
 not walk on wet grass if you would avoid being attacked by 
 the bloodthirsty little ground leech of Ceylon. He does not 
 appear after the sun has dried the surface of the ground ; for 
 he is quite helpless in the absence of moisture ; but after a 
 shower he will appear in his thousands, and it is then advisable 
 to keep to the roads and paths. Insects and birds abound, and 
 with such reptiles as lizards and chameleons of many species 
 excite a never failing interest. The task of exploring the 
 gardens w-ill prove easy enough with the help of our plan, and 
 the directing boards that are erected at the entrance to the 
 various drives and walks. The botanist will find the principal 
 plants and trees labelled. 
 The red Upon approaching the main entrance there will be noticed 
 
 cotton tree quite near the rest-house the fine specimen of the Red Cotton- 
 tree {Bomhax inaJaharicuw), which we illustrate (Plate 355). 
 This is the tree known locally as Katu-imbul, and is one of 
 the iew trees in Ce}lon that arc deciduous. Its most attractive 
 period is January or February, when it presents a gorgeous 
 spectacle, due to its being literally covered with large fleshy 
 flowers of bright scarlet hue, which it showers in profusion 
 upon the green sward, thus providing for itself the rich setting 
 of a carpet of blossoms. Two months later this tree has an 
 entirely different appearance ; the blossoms have departed, the 
 pods have become mature, and bursting, scatter abroad their 
 cotton like flakes of snow. Other notable specimens of this 
 fine tree exist in the grounds of the King's pavilion, Kandy. 
 Assam On the left of the entrance to the gardens we are now 
 
 rubber trees attracted bv a grove of Assam rubber trees [Ficus elastica). 
 The little plant with its bright green oval leaves, which in 
 England we are accustomed to see in sitting-rooms and con- 
 servatories, grows in its native land to an enormous size, and 
 throws out horizontal boughs to an extent of more than fifty 
 feet. It is most remarkable, however, for its snake-like roots, 
 which extend from the base of the trunk to a distance greater 
 tlian the height of the tree. Sometimes they reach out more 
 than one hundred feet, and in appearance they resemble huge 
 pvthons crawling over the surface of the soil. The portion 
 of the root which rises above the surface occasionallv reaches
 
 354. PERADENIYA ROAD. 
 
 355. RED COTTON TREE. 
 
 J50. ASSAM HUUUOl IHtl
 
 357. ENTRANCE TO PERADENIYA GARDENS. 
 
 358. THE LODGE: PERADENIYA GARDENS.
 
 359. GROUP OF PALMS: PERADENIYA GARDENS.
 
 360. TALIPOT PALM. 
 
 361. TALIPOT PALM, SEVEN YEARS OLD. 
 
 362. THE SAME TALIPOT, FOURTEEN YEARS OLD. 
 
 363. THE SAME TALIPOT TWENTY-ONE YEARS OLD.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 259 
 
 to such a heitjht that a tall man can hide upright behind it ; Main Line 
 it is not cylindrical, but so flattened that it almost resembles I'iraJcmyu 
 a wall. When these noble trees are wounded, tears trickle ^'"^''^"' 
 down their stems, and harden into the india-rubber of com- 
 merce known as Gutta-rambong. 
 
 We now pass into the stately enclosure where the botanic 
 splendour in which Ceylon is so richly clothed from shore to 
 shore reaches its supreme display. On either side of the en- rhceninmcc 
 trance (Plate 357J is a tall African palm (Elacis c^ui)icensis), 
 the seeds of which yield the palm oil of commerce. The pillars 
 of the gates are apparelled with a graceful creeper from Hraxil 
 {Bis;no)2ia unguis), which tlowers in April. 
 
 W'ithin the gates we obtain our view (Plate 358), which is 
 presented in all the blazing radiance of the tropical sun. The- 
 picturesque little lodge, the removal or rebuilding of which, as 
 is proposed, will cause some regret to those of us to whom it 
 has been familiar for very many years, contains the visitors' 
 book, in which we enter our names as we pass. Immediately Magnificent 
 opposite the gates we are arrested in amazement at the sight *rt/wis"^ 
 of a magnificent group of palms. .\n example of each kind 
 indigenous to the island, together with many noble specimens 
 of foreign lands, appears in the stately assemblage, wreathed 
 in flowering creepers and surrounded with sprats of elegant 
 ferns (see plate 359), whi(-h exhibits the road leading to the 
 right round the oval, and plate 374, which shows the road to 
 the left). To the right is the young Talipot palm with its The TaliM 
 gigantic fan-shaped leaves, the size of which mav be estimated ^'''"' 
 from our plate by comparison with the man standing beneath 
 one. With regard to the growth of this particular tree it may 
 be interesting to observe that in the year 1893, when I took 
 the photograph (Plate 361), this specimen, which is in the 
 gardens, was said to be seven years old. I returned to the 
 same tree in 1900 and obtained the photograph reproduced 
 by plate 362, and again this year, 1907, I obtained that given in 
 plate 363. Our illustrations, therefore, if I was rightlv in- 
 formed in the first instance, represent this palm in its seventh, 
 fourteenth and twenty-first year. It will be observed that in its 
 youth it devotes itself to producing only huge fan-shaped leaves ; 
 latri- a trunk begins to form, which grows straight as a mast 
 to a hc-ight of about one hundred feet. Thi- grand white stem 
 is encircled with closely set ring-marks, showing where it has 
 borne and shed its Iea\cs from year to vear. The semi- 
 circular fans often !ia\ e a radius of fifteen feet, gi\ ing a surface 
 of about three hundred and fifty square fi'et. The uses to 
 which these leaves arc put are computed by the natives at 
 eight hundred and one, the chief being raincloak and sunshade. 
 Three or four of these lea\'es form an admirable tent, and are
 
 26o THE BOOK OF CKVLOX 
 
 Main Line oi'icn (•in[)l()yc'(I as such. The litcrarv purpose to which they 
 I'ciaclauy^i lia\e lof thousands of years been applied is perhaps the most 
 uiteresting. I^'or this thev aie ( ut uito stii])s, and afterwards 
 I)oiled and dried, when they become what the natives term ola 
 or paper. On these strips of oJa the history of the people and 
 their relisjicnis systems have been handed down to us. I have 
 seen manuscripts of this material more than a thousand years 
 old, and yet in perfect condition, with the characters so clear 
 and distinct that it is difficult to realise their vast ag-e. 
 
 When the Talipot attains full maturity, it grows somewhat 
 smaller leaves, and develops a gigantic bud some four feet in 
 height. In due course this bursts with a report, and unfolds 
 a lovely white blossom which expands into a majestic pyramid 
 of cream-coloured flowers, which rise to a height of twenty 
 feet above the leafy crown. The fruit which succeeds this 
 magnificent bloom consists of innumerable nuts or seeds. Their 
 appearance indicates that the noble tree is nearing- its end. It 
 now begins to droop, its leaves wither, and within a year it 
 falls dead. In our little picture (Plate 364) will be seen a 
 Talipot palm in flower. Robert Knox's quaint description of 
 the Talipot is worth quoting. He says : — 
 
 " It is as bigf and tall as a ship's mast, and very straight, 
 bearing only leaves which are of great use and benefit to this 
 people, one single leaf being so broad and large that it will 
 cover some fifteen or twenty men, and keep them dry when 
 it rains. The leaf being dried is very strong and limber, and 
 most wonderfully made for men's convenience to carry along 
 with them, for though this leaf be thus broad when it is open, 
 yet it will fold close like a lady's fan, and then it is no bigger 
 than a man's arm. It is wonderfully light; they cut them 
 into pieces and carry them in their hands. The whole leaf- 
 spread is round almost like a circle, but being cut in pieces for 
 use are near like unto a triangle ; they lay them upon their 
 heads as they travel, with the peaked end foremost, which is 
 convenient to make their way through the boughs and thickets 
 (see plate 365). \\nien the sun is vehement hot thev use them 
 to shade themselves from the heat; soldiers all carry them, for 
 besides the benefit of keeping them dry in case it rain upon 
 the march these leaves make their tents to lie under in the 
 night. A marvellous mercy, which Almighty God hath be- 
 stowed upon this poor and naked people in this rainy country." 
 
 The Talipot Avenue, near the river on the left, and easily 
 found by reference to our plan, is one of the most striking 
 features we shall meet with, its shades of colour in green and 
 gold affording delight to the artistic eye. 
 
 All European ideas of a garden must be discarded if we 
 wish to realise the general features of Pcradeniva. There is
 
 TALIPOT f'ALH IN i LO'.VLH 
 
 3G3. TALIPOT LEAVES AS VjMDHELL'S.
 
 367. THE LAKE: PERADENIYA GARDENS. 
 
 36S. MALACCA BAMBOO.
 
 THE H(K)K Ol- Li:\LC).\ 263 
 
 an entire absence of formal arrangement, but the beautiful •'^^"'" Line 
 undulation of the land produces a grand effect — a garden and ''"(tJtniya 
 park combined, under conditions the most favourable for both. 
 "Here Nature asserts herself almost uncontrolled; she gi\es 
 us grandeur of form, wealth of foliage, exuberance of growth, 
 and splendour of colour — unfading beauties, but of a quite 
 diflercnt kind from those of the sweet summer llower-gardens 
 or the well-kept stoves and greenhouses of England." C)f 
 course the primary object of the garden is scientific instruction, 
 but the picturesque must have been kept well in view in plant- 
 ing the groups of trees and arranging the various families of 
 plants. 
 
 If we turn to the left along Lake Road we shall notice LnkeRo.^d 
 many lofty and ornamental trees; amongst them the Amherstia 
 nobilis, from Burma, while many are completely shrouded 
 in flowering creepers which trail in graceful forms from great 
 heights (Plate 372). The Tluiii1)rrgia, with its lovely bell- 
 shaped blossoms, creeps in masses o\er the fine old tree 
 trunks which it clothes in the same bountiful manner. Near 
 this spot are to be seen gamboge trees and some curious 
 African trees w'ith long pendulous fruits. The Brazil Nut tree 
 [Bertholeiia excdsa) is also in evidence here. Continuing in 
 the same direction \vc soon arrive at the amateur photo- 
 grapher's paradise, the most photographed spot in the garden. 
 Here is a charming pool, and round about it a multitude of 
 singularly beautiful foliage subjects that can be combined with 
 its glistening waters ; some are seen to best advantage in the 
 early morning, when the reflection of the bamboo and palms 
 upon the bank's is so perfect that, sa\-c for the narrow strips 
 f)l Icat on the surface of the water, the \ icw jiirsented in tin- 
 pool is as I'xact in all detail as the real one. Obviously we 
 cannot here introckuH' all these exquisite pictures; but Nos. 
 .>^'7> .>'^'^t 373 •'"<^' 39<^ \\'" st'r\e as examples. In Nos. T,i^- 
 \hv entrance of the Talipot .\\enue (Plate 3')<)) is to be seen 
 in the distance, and this will serve to guide us. But first wc oiant 
 must remark the giant clumi) of Malacca bamboo, in diameter ''<'"''^' 
 about nine inches, and reaching to a height of one hundred 
 feet. During the rains they may be almost sei-ti to grow, so 
 rapidly do they increase their height and girth. I i-annot say 
 what is the fullest extent of L^rowth in a Niiii^lc dav, but one 
 foot is somewhat near the mininuun (luring the hea\y rainfall 
 in June and July. 
 
 Plants that will be seen inhabilinL; the water are the papvrus Waur 
 of the Nile, giant water-liliis, with their blossoms nine or ten /■'"'"' 
 inches in diameter, and the pith-tree, frt)m whose wood arc 
 made the familiar sun hats of the tropics. 
 
 We now pass through the Talipot Avenue. On the ri\er
 
 jr,4 'I III-; r.ooK f)i" (■I•:^■I.ox 
 
 Main Line v,!,],- ;,|-c the x.iiious kinds ol rubber trees, including- some 
 
 Ganiai's' '^■'" '' 'l"'^'" • "' more species. There are also gutta-percha 
 trees, now \<ry rare. On the left of the avenue the ground 
 is occupied by an interesting collection of herbs, labelled and 
 arranged in due order according to their families. As we 
 proceed there are on our right some kola-nut trees {Cola 
 (icuniimilit) from West Afriia. The kola nut is used to some 
 small extent in Ce} Ion as a substitute for tea and coffee, and 
 is also introduced into aerated beverages. It is a tiseful 
 stimulant and masticatory, and especially useful to those who 
 suffer from indigestion. A small hollow in this part of the 
 gardens is also devoted to cocoa or chocolate plants (Theo- 
 hroma cacao), from the seeds of which the cocoa of commerce 
 is obtained. This plant is extensively cultivated in the Kandvan 
 country, and will not fail to attract the notice of the visitor. 
 
 The f>af>au' \^ ^ve approach the corner at the extreme south of the 
 
 gardens, represented in our illustration (Plate 369), the 
 noticeable features are varieties of succulent plants, the grace- 
 ful papaw (Carica papaya) laden with its enormous fruits 
 suspended beneath a crown of beautifully shaped leaves. The 
 papaw (Plate 391) is frequently spoken of as the poor man's 
 fruit from the fact of its fertility, its many useful properties 
 and its general distribution, for it is seen in every poor man's 
 garden. In appearance it resembles a green melon and has 
 an orange-yellow flesh of sweet and pleasant flavour. Papain, 
 from which it derives its digestive properties, is said to be 
 superior to the animal product known as pepsin. The stem 
 of the tree has a pretty pattern of diamond shape and fre- 
 quently grows to a height of fifteen to twenty feet. Many 
 young palms of exceedingly beautiful foliage will also be 
 
 Sere:.' pines admired here, within the loop formed by the drive. Aloes, 
 agaves and screw pines [Pandanus) abound. The screw pine 
 (folate 369), with its scarlet-orange fruits, tempting only to 
 monkeys, its glossy sword-like leaves, its forked cylindrical 
 stem so beautifully chased, and its strange stilt-like roots, 
 presents a fantastic appearance. In our illustration (Plate 369) 
 may be seen a portion of the old satinwood bridge over the 
 Mahaweliganga, which, as we have observed, almost encircles 
 the whole garden. 
 
 ^'■I'nue ^^'^ retrace our way through the Talipot Avenue, and pass 
 
 the pond where the beautiful road and ri\er view presented 
 in plate 370 is the next to claim our admiration. The high 
 banks of the river are in many parts clothed with climbing 
 shrubs between the enormous thickets of bamboo, which wave 
 their plumes over river and path. Can it be that these huge 
 clumps of eighty or a hundred cylindrical stems rising to such 
 a lofty height are really nothing more than bunches of grass ?
 
 369. THE SCREW PINE.
 
 
 J 
 
 1^9 
 
 cfl 
 
 1 
 
 n/W^^^iS^^^aS^*'1sl^^ Hi 
 
 m 
 
 i 
 
 fit \'> .iS^^^^^^Hh^H 
 
 WM 
 
 n 
 
 B^^^PH 
 
 E 
 
 Sl^ih^ 
 
 ^:w'i^A .'. .• vAi.,, 
 
 .IBOO CLUMP Wi.STECN Lf 
 
 372. CREEPERS. 
 
 373. THE LAKE, EMBOWERED
 
 374. GROUP OF PALMS. 
 
 375. LIANA GROVE. 
 
 376. A DOUBLE COCOANUT IN 1892.
 
 Tin-: nooK of cf.m.ox 2r>g 
 
 They grow closely crowded together from a common root, and Main Line 
 their stems are knotted like all grasses, of which thcv are the /w.iJ.nn.i 
 most wonderlul species. 
 
 Having now explored the south-west corner we return to 
 the oval group of palms near the entrance and entering the 
 main central drive illustrated by plates 378 and 392, we lind 
 ourselves at once in a grove of exquisite beauty, its charming 
 features being due to the careful planting of the shrubs and 
 trees, which form a bank of ornamental and flowering plants 
 rising gradually from the edge to the tall trees which constitute 
 the background and overhanging canopy. The first turn on \io„„,ncitt 
 the left is Monument Road, where we shall find the famous Koau 
 kauri pine of New Zealand, the curious candle tree with its 
 pendulous fruits which resemble so many candles hanging by 
 their wicks from the branches ; and the most interesting double 
 cocoanut palm [Lodoicca sechcllaruni). " This extraordinary jhe double 
 palm, the fruit of which, found floating on the waves of the cocoanut 
 Indian Ocean, or washed up on the shores of Ceylon and the 
 Maldives, was known for centuries before the tree itself, grows 
 in one or two small islands only of the Seychelles group, where 
 it is now protected. The growth is extremely slow, a single 
 leaf being annually sent up. As this palm frequently attains a 
 height of one hundred feet, it must live to a vast age. The 
 nut takes ten years to ripen, and the seed, which is the largest 
 known, a year or longer to germinate " (Trimen). I first 
 secured a photograph of this specimen in 1892, when it was 
 already forty y(;ars old and had not begun to form its stem (see 
 plate 37^1). In 1907 I took the photograph reproduced in 
 plate 377, which will give an exact idea of the fifteen years' 
 growth. The slower growth would appear to characterise its 
 extreme youth, as after taking forty years to begin exhibiting 
 a stem it has grown since that time at the rate of about seven 
 inches a year. Unfortunately this specimen is a male, and 
 therefore bears no fruit ; but several young plants of the same 
 species are placed so as to form an avenue which may 
 interest future generations. It should certainly be a grand 
 spectacle for posterity in about iwc hundred \ears when the 
 trees reach maturity. It is to be hoped that the public of the 
 year 2400 will be acquainted with the Peradcniya records of 
 our time and feel grateful to the present director and curator 
 as in living machines thev inspect the noble fruit with which 
 thev are prox idcd through the kindl\- forcsii^ht of their 
 ancestors. 
 
 The Great Lawn will be noticed from the Monument Road, TiuCtcat 
 along the edge of which are fine trees, too numerous to mention ^-'"'" 
 here in detail. 
 
 We return to the .Main Central I)ri\c. cross over it, and
 
 j;o TIIK P.OOK OF CF":YL0N 
 
 Main Line stroll (lowii tlu' Liana Diivc, where we sliall see the Ceylon 
 I'ciatUniya satiiiwooci tree {Clihjro.xylon swietenia), which we illustrate, 
 Gariiens- .^^^^j .^^^ abuncluncc of lianas hanging in festoons. These climb- 
 ing palms, one of which may be seen like a couple of threads 
 on the right side of our picture (N'o. 375), provide the 
 cane used in furniture-making and matting. They grow to 
 enormous lengths, sometimes hundreds of feet. 
 
 Our next step is to make for a scene which to many is tfie 
 most fascinating and longest remembered of all in the gardens 
 ruc Fernery — the Fernery. This, as our map will show, is to the right a 
 little further along the Main Central I3rive, and is provided 
 with a network of paths about which the visitor will wander 
 in a maze of delight. Beneath the shade of lofty trees rivulets 
 flow between banks carpeted with ferns of infinite variety, some 
 so minute as to be hardly distinguishable from delicate moss, 
 others robust and tree-like, and some even bearing fine tufts 
 of feathery leaves as large as stately palms. Beautiful parasites 
 cover the trunks of the protecting trees. It is always a 
 veritable fairy scene ; but sometimes, when hundreds of beauti- 
 ful butterflies are flitting amidst all the delicate and graceful 
 tracery that climbs the luxuriant trees under whose shady 
 canopies it flourishes, the scene is entrancing. Plate 379 does 
 all that a photograph can do, but fails utterly to convey any- 
 thing approaching the reality of this botanical paradise. 
 The Fiomer Near the Fernery is the Flower Garden (Plates 380 and 
 
 381). At the south end will be found a circular tank con- 
 taining many interesting aquatic plants, including the plants 
 from which Panama hats are made (Carludovica palmata), 
 water poppies, the sacred lotus, Egyptian papyrus, the water 
 hyacinth and others. Near the tank are two fine rubber trees 
 of the same species as the grove near the entrance (Ficiis 
 elastica). If we pass beneath the archway formed by the 
 peculiar snake-like climber {Bauhinia anguina), which we shall 
 not fail to notice near the tank, the path will lead us to a shady 
 walk amidst all manner of spice trees, especially nutmegs, 
 Nutmegs cinnamon, allspice and cloves. The nutmeg, which is verv 
 beautifully formed, with scarlet netted mace surrounding the 
 seed, is well worth a passing examination. In this locality a 
 rockery of ferns and plants that seek shady places will be 
 noticed, and, most rare of all, a glass-roofed conservatory ! 
 The almost entire absence of the glass house is, however, one 
 of the charms of the garden. Only imagine what Kew would 
 be if the contents of all its great houses could be placed in the 
 open and multiplied by scores. Even then the magnificence of 
 Peradeniya with its Mahaweliganga would give many points 
 to Kew with its Thames and its soap works walled off for their 
 very ugliness. The special function of this glass house at
 
 378. THE MAIN CENTRAL DRIVE.
 
 I-
 
 380. THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
 
 381. THE FLOWER GARDEN.
 
 CONSEKVATC^ 
 
 3S4. PALMYRA AVENUE.
 
 TiiR HOOK OF CI•:^"I.o^■ 275 
 
 Pcradeniya is to protect desert plants from the moisture uhii li Main Lint- 
 is the cihciciit cause of the exuberant fertility outside. fttiidntiya 
 
 in the llowcr garden tliere are shade houses for orchids ^""'"'^ 
 and other shade-loving plants. That in the middle is known 
 as the Octagon Conser\ator\-. We gi\e a \ iew of one of the 
 entrances to this and a portion of the interior in plate ^S-- 
 (reneral views of the flower garden are presented in plates 380 
 and 3S1. Xear the Orchid House there is in the open garden 
 a grand specimen of the giant orchid (GrammutopliyUiini spccio- TiuOrchid 
 su))i). This is the largest orchid in the world, flowering to a ^'""" 
 luiglit of seven feet above its crown of foliage. The giant 
 creeper (Monstera deliciosa) (Plate 386) will be seen upon the 
 trunk of a tree near the giant orchid. To the north-east of 
 the flower garden, as may be easily seen in our map, is the 
 Palmyra Avenue [Borassas flabellifonuis). \\'hen our photo- Palmyra 
 graph (Plate 384) was obtained in 1907, these trees were •' ■'"""' 
 eighteen years old. Like the Talipot which we described on 
 page 259, the Palmyra has a straight stem which reaches the 
 height of seventy to eighty feet, and similarly it has broad 
 fan-like leav'es. Its wood is hard, and its fruit supplies much 
 of the food of the poorer inhabitants of Jaffna, where it 
 chiefly grows. The sugar of the Palmyra, called by the 
 natives iagf!;ery, is its most important product. This is ob- 
 tained by bruising the embryo flowers. The spathes are first 
 bound with thongs to prevent expansion and cause the sap to 
 exude, and then earthenware chatties are suspended to collect 
 the juice which, in response to frequent bruisings, continues 
 to flow for some four or five months. Once in three years the 
 fruit is allowed to form, but only lest the tree should die from 
 the continued artificial extraction of its juices. The liquor needs 
 only to be boiled down to the consistency of syrup, when, ui)()n 
 cooling, it becomes jagi^ery without any further preparation. 
 
 When the fruit is allowed to ripen it forms in beaulilul 
 clusters on each flower stem, of which there are seven or eight 
 on a tree. The fruit contains seeds embedded in pulp, and 
 from these food is extracted in various forms. One method 
 is to plant the seeds and take the germs in their first stage of 
 growth ; thes<', aft<'r being drii'd in the sun and dri-ssed, form 
 a luscious \egetable. The germs can also be reduced to flour, 
 which is considered a great delicacv. Tlu' shc-Ils of the seeds 
 make splendid fuel, engendering a great heat. The wood, 
 being very hard and durable, is excellent material for roofing. 
 The leaves are in \-erv great recjuesl for thatch, fencing, mats, 
 baskets, fans, unihiclias, and inan\ oHk i- purposes, in earlier 
 times thev were almost uni\ crsjilK used lor manuscript books 
 and legal documents. 
 
 Revond the Palnn ra .\\(iuie is the Rose ("iai-(!en, which
 
 276 Till': HOOK oi- c l•;^ i.oN 
 
 iMain Line should not be missed; and lo llic ri<;lil of tlif axciuic is a 
 
 lyia.icmya strclcli ol hiiul (Icvotcd to tropical vctfctal:)ks, in(ludin<4- <;ourds, 
 yams, sweet potatoes, tapioca, arrowroot, pineapples and many 
 others. Camphor trees and cassia trees are also cultivated 
 here. The Hat Drive, near which we shall notice the useful 
 little pavilion erected to the memory of Dr. Thwaites, director 
 from 1849 to i<S<So, borders the Arboretum, which is entered 
 through the line arch of bamboos shcnvn in plate 3.S8. Here 
 
 Fiyiu^ foxes may <jenerally be seen hundreds of so-called il\ ini( foxes hang- 
 ing heads downward like legs of mutton from the topmost 
 branches of lofty trees. They are somewhat diHicult to photo- 
 gl'aph owing- to their predilection for branches that are 
 about a hundred feet from the ground. Plate 385 was obtained 
 with a telephoto lens. These curious bird-beasts (Pteropus 
 ccluHinhii) are fruit eaters, and particularly fond of the seeds 
 of the banyan tree [Ficus Indica). Hy day they sleep suspended 
 as seen in our picture, and at night unhook their claws, and 
 spreading their heavy wings, they fly around the trees in large 
 numbers, making no little noise in their foraging exercises. It 
 is quite easy on a moonlit night to bring them down with a 
 gun ; but if not killed outright they are by no means gentle 
 creatures to deal with, and the help of a hunting-knife is not 
 to be despised, in view of the fact that they fight violently w-ith 
 their huge claw's and sharp teeth. The size of their bodies is 
 about as large as a rabbit, their wings sometimes measuring 
 as much as four feet from tip to tip. Professor Haeckel has 
 observed that they are very fond of palm wine, or toddy, upon 
 which they frequently get intoxicated by drinking from the 
 vessels that are placed to catch the flowing sap. 
 
 Royal palms fh^ avenuc of royal palms [Oreodoxa regia) visible through 
 
 the bamboo arch of plate 388 has been magnificent in its day, 
 but is now fast decaying. It is upwards of fifty years old, and 
 must soon give w^ay to the cabbage palms with which it has 
 been interplanted. 
 
 A drive around the gardens by the river side is especially 
 pleasant and affords many lovely views. If we start at the 
 south-east and look back w'here the river bends in the direction 
 of Kandy, w^e get our view (Plate 389). Before the introduc- 
 tion of the smaller clump of bamboo, which now hides the 
 opposite banks of the river at a very pretty bend, this was one 
 of the most charming vistas to be obtained from the garden. 
 It is to be hoped that the offending clump may ere long be 
 removed. On the same side of the gardens, but farther north, 
 is the river view represented in plate 387. At the north end 
 of the garden there is a portion of ground allotted to nature 
 herself, where in the jungle self-sown plants compete for the 
 mastery in earth and air. .Vcross the river at this point is the
 
 FLViNG FOXES ASLEEP 
 
 387. RIVER View : EASTERN DRIVE.
 
 388. AN ARCH OF BAMBOO.
 
 389. THE HANTANNE VIEW.
 
 1 
 
 
 j^^ ''ijLk 
 
 wj<- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 BBS 
 
 390. ARCH OF BAMBOO, NEAR THE LA 
 
 391. THE PAPAW. 
 
 392. MAIN CENTRAL DRIVE,
 
 THE BOOK OF CK'SLOX 
 
 2.S1 
 
 experiment station, where economic products are tested in order Main Line 
 to discover their commercial value under scientific treatment. I'era.Unn.t 
 
 On the west side there arc also very pretty peeps along the 
 river through a framework of foliage, notably the bridge view 
 (Plate 383) and those given in plates 370 and 371. 
 
 There is a circular road in the middle of the gardens, in circular 
 the vicinity of which many beautiful trees may be seen that '^"'^ 
 have been planted there by royal \isitors ; amongst them a 
 sacred bo-tree (Ficiis rcUgiosa) planted by King Edw ard during 
 his visit as Prince of Wales in 1875; a tlamboyante [Poinciana 
 rci^ia) by the Princess Henry of Prussia in 1899; near the 
 Thwaites Memorial a na-tree or Ceylon ironwood {Mcsua 
 jcrrea) bv the Czar of Russia in 1891 ; a Bro7cnca s;ra}H}iccps 
 by the King of Greece in 1891 ; a Saraca Indica by the ill-fated 
 Crown Prince Rudolph of Austria in 1893; and Amhersiia 
 nobilis by the Prince Henry of Prussia in 1898; and near the 
 Laboratory on the opposite side a cannon-ball tree {Courmipita 
 f^uianensis), planted by the Prince of Wales in 1901. 
 
 The Museum situated near the Great Circle commands I'le Musann 
 beautiful views and is full of objects of great interest. Here 
 will be found specimens of the many valuable timbers of Ceylon, 
 many of which are now unfortunately scarce, such as the beauti- 
 ful calamander [Diospyros qucesita), ebony of Ceylon {Diospynis 
 eheutim), which is superior in value to all other kinds, and 
 satinwood [Chloroxylon sivie tenia), noted for its prettily 
 flowered appearance. Entomology is represented, and the r.niomology 
 specimens include the greatest wonders of the insect world, 
 many of them so closely allied to the vegctaljle kingdom that 
 only on close examination can the question be determined as 
 to whether we are looking at an object having a sentient being, 
 or a mere bundle of leaves or sticks — these are the leaf insects, 
 stick insects and leaf butterflies. Here too arc the Museum, 
 the Herbarium and Library, the oflices of the director, the 
 entomologist and the mycologist, while the laboratory for 
 scientific research is in the same vicinity. 
 
 \'olumes might be written about these Royal Botanic 
 Gardens at Peradeniya ; but it is beyond the scMipc of the 
 present work to give more than a general idea of them. They 
 contain the most lavish displav of tropical llora that has ever 
 been brought together, and the practical benefit of such an 
 establishment, with its large staff of accomplished experts, will 
 be manifest to c-\er\' \isitor. 
 
 K\M)^• (74in. V"')- In K;iiui\- and its neighbourhood the Kandy 
 
 gem of tile earth sends forth her most exquisite rays. The ronnaiwn 
 
 formation of the town itself may be described as a basin in the ''^' «'<»^'» 
 hills, the bottom being occupied in one part by native quarters, 
 
 T
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVLOX 28;, 
 
 temples and piuisalas, and the rest by a pieturesque lake, Kandy 
 around which many miles of carriage drives, bridle roads and 1','rimitwn 
 walks, at various elevations line the hillsides, which are studded 
 with pretty bungalows. A reference to our illustrations will 
 give some idea of the way in which this beautiful little town 
 clusters around the lake, amid all the wealth of foliage 
 peculiar both to mountain and plain, w hicli here meet and 
 intermingle. 
 
 Kandy is incomparably beautiful ; but let it be at once Sctnciy 
 under.jStod, that in thus describing it we are not limiting the 
 epithet to the town and its immediate surroundings. It is 
 rather the Kandyan country as a whole that is thus distin- 
 guished, and this must be seen from the hill-tops which com- 
 mand the far-reaching valleys where the Mahaweliganga rolls 
 over rocky channels and through scenes of almost majestic 
 beauty ; from the Hunasgeria peak ; from Mattanapatana ; from 
 Lady Morton's walk and other steep acclivities that encircle 
 the town itself. Travellers too frequently, either from want of 
 time or lack of energy, obtain but a faint idea of the varied 
 beauty of the Kandyan district. To encourage a fuller 
 exploration of this most interesting part of Ceylon, a con- 
 siderable portion of this work will now be devoted to its 
 description. 
 
 Our interest in the Kandy of to-da\ will be strengthened by Katuiyan 
 some knowledge of the previous records of the Kandyans and '"''"^■'' 
 their little city. It has no very ancient history. It was for 
 the first time adopted as the capital in the year 1 59J by W'imala 
 Dharma, the one hundred and sixty-fourth monarch who had 
 reigned in Ceylon since the year B.C. 543, the earliest perit)d 
 of which any events are recorded. For more than a thousand 
 years /Vnuradhapura was the capital, and the residence of the 
 kings, till in .x.d. 729 this once mighty city, the stupendous 
 ruins of which we shall describe later, was forsaken, and hence- 
 forth for some live hundred years Polonnaruwa became the 
 capital. With the downfall of Polonnaruwa, consequent upitn 
 Malabar invasion, the prestige of the Sinhalese monarchy 
 dwindled. From the year 1235 various places were selected for 
 the capital, including Dambadeniya, Kurunegala, (iampola, 
 Cotta and Sitawaka, until the final adoption of Kandy, which 
 continued to be a place of royal residence until the reign of 
 the last monarch, Sri W'ikrama Rajah Sinha, i7g<S-i8i5. 
 
 I'Vom the time of the first contact with ICuropcans, whiih 
 we have seen took place in the early part of the sixteenth 
 centurv, Kandy was for three hundred years the chosen ground 
 where the Sinhalese made their stand against the aggressions 
 of I'Airopean intruders. The Portuguese first carried on a 
 desultory struggle with the Kandyans for one hundred and
 
 284 THE ROOK ()!• C■I•:^■LON 
 
 Kandy filly NC'ii's, (liirinjL; which time they repeatedly gained posses- 
 
 sinifiK'n sioii of, and ill threat part destroyed, the city, but never 
 Portuguese suceccdid in holding it to their own advantage, or for any 
 considerable length of time. How entirely ignorant of Western 
 (•i\'ilisation the Sinhalese were at this time, is evident from 
 the following quaint extract from a native chronicle referring 
 to the arrival of a Portuguese ship. It narrates : "In the 
 month of April of the year 1522 a ship from Portugal arrived 
 at Colombo, and information was brought to the King. They 
 are a very white and beautiful people, who wear hats, and 
 boots of iron, and never stop in one place; " and having seen 
 them eating bread and drinking wine, and not knowing what 
 it was, they added, " They eat a sort of white stone and drink 
 bloodj give a gold coin for a fish, or a lime, and have a kind 
 of instrument that produces thunder and lightning, and a ball 
 put into it would fly many miles, and then break a castle of 
 marble or iron. " 
 
 Kandy was held through many desperate encounters in 
 which victory inclined to either combatant accompanied by the 
 practice of every species of atrocity on both sides. The enter- 
 prise, always diflEicult and dangerous for the besiegers, both on 
 account of the deadly malaria of the jungle and the narrow and 
 treacherous defiles, which were the only means of approach, 
 demonstrates the great courage of the Portuguese as pioneers 
 in colonisation. It must, however, be admitted that, judging 
 by their own accounts of their battles, they were barbarously 
 cruel, and equalled, if they did not excel, the Kandyans in 
 the invention of fiendish methods of dealing with their 
 captives. 
 Kamhan A characteristic of the Kandyans had always been their 
 
 patriotism patriotism, a virtue wanting amongst the people of the low- 
 lands, whose policy in dealing with the invader was too often 
 tame and pusillanimous. Organised resistance by the whole 
 of the native peoples was thus out of the question, and the 
 brave mountaineers were left without support in their struggle 
 with the invader. Their methods of warfare were at first 
 primitive ; their weapons consisted merely of lances, bows and 
 arrows, and sword-blades attached to the tusks of elephants. 
 They accomplished more by craft and stratagem than by open 
 combat, but they were not slow to understand the methods of 
 their aggressors. At the beginning of the struggle guns and 
 gunpowder were unknown to them ; they possessed, however, 
 amongst their citizens workers in metal more skilled than the 
 Portuguese, who soon produced excellent fowling pieces, which 
 were described by their foes as "the fairest barrels for pieces 
 that may be seen in any place, and which shine as bright as 
 silver." Long before the war ended they were as well equipped
 
 394. KANDYAN SCENERY: THE RESERVOIR. 
 
 395. THE RESERVOIR WALK, KANDV.
 
 396. KANDY LAKE. 
 
 397. KANDY LAKE.
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVLOX 287 
 
 in respect of weapons as their European ach crsarics. The Kandy 
 manufacture of guns, thus begun by the Kandyans unci«r th<- 
 impulse of necessity, has continued in the villages around 
 Kandy to the present day. 
 
 Throughout the whole period during which the Portuguese 
 were in possession of the coast, the Kandyans never swerving 
 in their patriotism and their courage, and aided by the great 
 advantage of their position in the mountains, the passes of 
 which were naturally fortified on all sides, were a constant 
 menace to their security, harassing them by forays into the 
 plains, and taxing to the utmost their powers of defence. 
 We have seen (pages 21 and 22) that with the arrival of the The Dutch 
 Dutch a policy which involved less fighting was adopted, but 
 the attitude of proud defiance on the part of the mountaineers 
 was not one whit changed in consequence. Although they had 
 invited the Dutch to assist them in getting rid of the Portu- 
 guese, their new allies were soon treated with contempt, and 
 treaties and compacts were entered into only to be violated 
 with every mark of contempt and indignity. I'Vom the very 
 beginning the Dutch, recognising the futilit\ of trying to gain 
 and hold possession of the Kandyan kingdom, adopted a policy 
 of subservience — peace with dishonour — and endured all manner 
 of insults for the sake of such commercial advantages as could 
 be realised in exchange for ignoble adulation and cringing 
 servilitv. Whether they could have conquered and held Kandy, 
 if tlic\ had cared to go to the expense, is doubtful; but their 
 rapacity and meanness effectually pre\enlcd them from making 
 any adequate and sustained efforts. 
 
 It remained for the British to accomplish the task; nor was '"I;"/."' 
 
 . , r 1 1 ' , , , the Brtltsh 
 
 it bv anv means an easy one ior them, ror twenty years alter 
 their first arrival in the year 1795, Kandy remained unsubdued. 
 After three centuries of guerilla warfare with the Portuguese 
 and the Dutch, and their bitter experiences of the policy of 
 brigandage which these nations pursued, it was not likely that 
 they would welcome any further European intnirsion. It was 
 now the irony of their fate to \\\v in constant dread of being 
 conquered by the nation that had in store for lh( in the blessings 
 of good government and future prosperity. 
 
 W'e can only realise their dread of the European at this 
 period when we consid( r tlie price at which they preserved 
 their independence. Tin ir nionarcln- with its ancient prestige 
 had been degradid from its estate. I'he king was a foreigner 
 and a despot of the most cruel 1>i)e. to resist whose will was 
 to court immediate destruction. The highest oHicer of the 
 state was the .\digar, who alone possesst'd the renal ear. His 
 power of administering justice", or injustice, was practically 
 unlimited. He could issue what mandates he pleased, and
 
 288 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Kandy prcvciit ail}' complaiiits from rcaching^ the throne. He thus had 
 
 TyiiiiDiy oj every opportunity for intrigfue, of which he fully availed him- 
 self, disquictnig the monarchy with jealousy and apprehension, 
 and striking terror into the populace. The inferior officers of 
 state were mere tools of oppression, extracting every atom of 
 wealth out of the lower orders. Extortion was recognised as 
 a system of government. The lowest ranks were those who 
 most felt the burden of supplying the royal treasury, for they 
 had no class from whi(-h they could in turn extort. The proper 
 administration of justice was unknown. Such trials as were 
 held before the oflicers of the state were summary, and bar- 
 bjarous punishments the immediate result. Imprisonment was 
 never inllicted, but heavy fines and torture for minor offences ; 
 and in case of capital sentences, some barbarous cruelty in 
 addition was always introduced. This was the price of their 
 independence, and it is reasonable to suppose that they would 
 have been more ready to exchange it for the justice, humanity 
 and happiness which they now enjoy had they had any exper- 
 ience other than that of the methods of the Dutch, which were 
 not of a kind to inspire them with hope of any amelioration in 
 their lot at the hands of a European master. 
 
 The British first tried to gain control of the Kandyan king- 
 dom by diplomatic means ; but in these they were unfortunate ; 
 and the attractive mountain stronghold was destined to give 
 much trouble to its new assailants, and to be the scene of 
 bloodshed, treachery and barbarity, too awful for description, 
 before it was won. 
 Piiiina At the time when the British ousted the Dutch from the 
 
 maritime provinces the Kandvan throne was occupied bv the 
 old Tamil King Rajadhi Raja Sinha, whose Adigar was Pilima 
 Talawa. Pilima, who boasted descent from the ancient line 
 of pure Sinhalese kings, conceived the idea of restoring the 
 native dynasty in his own person. To this end he formed a 
 crafty and somewhat intricate project which involved first of 
 all the deposition of the old king, the placing upon the throne 
 Sri Wikrama, another Tamil, who should in turn be deposed 
 with the aid of the British on the ground of his being a Alala- 
 bar. His intention was to encourage the young Sri Wikrama 
 to commit such acts of atrocity as should make him hateful 
 to his own subjects, and at the same time provoke war with 
 the English. By these means he hoped to raise himself to the 
 supreme power. He succeeded in deposing the old king and 
 placing Sri Wikrama on the throne. His designs were then 
 disclosed to the British Governor, Mr. North, who saw in them 
 a possible opportunity of establishing a military protectorate 
 at Kandy. He therefore tempted Pilima with the following 
 proposition : The King, while retaining his nominal rank, was
 
 ^. 
 
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 'M.. 
 
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 "^.'». 
 
 
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 'v^: ^'--^^B 
 
 ^zjw^fm 
 
 
 
 ^^lHjBS99pm^Hr 
 
 
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 5 
 
 
 P^"'W'' " 
 
 
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 w 
 
 py<?»?!*r".'; , ■ 
 
 
 
 399. ROAD SCENE, KANDY,
 
 THE BOOK OF CK^•I.O\ 291 
 
 to be virtually reduced to a nonentity, and induced to retire to Kandy 
 a distant province. These arrangements were to be supported "icisnufh 
 by the presence of a British force in Kandy. The introduction !'/;!,"'.f!.' ' 
 of the troops was to be managed by means of a pretended J,;|" !'. ' 
 embassy to the King, Filima undertaking to get his consent 
 to a large escort, and under the guise of this escort it was 
 intended to march into Kandy with a force of two thousand 
 five hundred men. 
 
 Accordingly, in March, 1800, General MacDowall marched 
 with this formidable force to the borders of the Kandvan king- 
 dom, where they were stopped by orders from the King, who 
 had become alarmed at their numbers. The British troops 
 were not allowed to proceed further, but the (ieneral was 
 ordered to proceed with some native troops, but by the way of 
 passes so impracticable that guns and baggage had to be left raiiux ,» 
 behind, and he therefore arrived with a very small portion of ""^ "•'"/"«« 
 his intended strength. In the end the embassy returned to 
 Colombo completely unsuccessful, and the elaborate scheme for 
 obtaining a bloodless footing in the Kanchan kingdom resulted 
 in utter failure. 
 
 This is not a thrilling story or one worthy of British tradi- 
 tions ; but there is something to be said in defence oi an 
 attempt to obtain possession of Kandy by such means. The 
 internal condition of the kingdom itself made it char tliat the 
 success of the enterprise could entail no great injustice upon 
 the King or his people, and events that followed proved that 
 it would ha\"e averted great misfortunes, much bloodshed, and 
 manv fearful atrocities, in addition to bringing relief to the 
 oppressed inhabitants fifteen years earlier. 
 
 I'ilima, foiled in his designs to gain power bv nn-ans of 
 intrigues with the British, now changed his tactics with a \ iew 
 to provoke a war with Kandy, in the hope that events might 
 enable him to realise the objects of his lofty ambition. In the 
 cn)urse of two years, after many fruitless attempts, he managed 
 to bring about a casus /x/// which the Governor could not 
 ignore. .\ British force of three thousand men, under General /v.i«m 
 MacDowall, marched to Kandy and in\-ested it. The King •"''<•"<•■' 
 fled and the treacherous Pilima at om c offered his services to 
 the Britisli in |)lacing on the throne a member of the royal 
 family who should act in accordance with thiir wishes. Muttu 
 Samy, who had been a fugitive under British protection in 
 Colombo, was chosen for this purpose, and thus placed upon 
 the throne. lie was first required to agree to a permanent 
 British garrison in Kandy, thus gixing iffi-ct to Mr. North's 
 original plan. But the wily Tilima approached tlie General 
 with proposals whi(-h resulted in a convention on the following 
 terms : the fugitive was to be delivered up to the l'"nglish,
 
 292 
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Kandy 
 
 The 
 
 treachery 
 of I'iliina 
 
 Massacre 
 of Davie's 
 troops 
 
 Muttu Samy was to be sent to Jaffna, and the Adi^^ar was to 
 assume the supreme power in Kandy. Two unfortunate cir- 
 cumstances in the carrying out of these arrangements afforded 
 I'ilima his opportunity of acting the traitor. In the first place 
 the number of troops left for a permanent garrison was too 
 small, and in the second, their commander was an officer quite 
 unsuited for the responsibility that devolved upon him. 
 
 (leneral MacDowall marched back to Colombo, leaving 
 behind him only three hundred British and seven hundred 
 Malays under Major Davie, for the defence of British interests. 
 The Adigar, now seeing but one step between himself and the 
 throne, did not hesitate for a moment to betray the British who 
 had so incautiously trusted him. He formed the bold design 
 of seizing the person of the Governor, of exterminating the 
 British garrison in Kandy, and destroying the rival kings. By 
 accident the Governor, who happened to be on the border, 
 escaped; but the rest of Pilima's scheme was ruthlessly carried 
 out. 
 
 On June 24th, 1803, the little garrison that MacDowall had 
 left was assailed by thousands of Kandyans, who literally 
 swarmed over the hills that overhung the palace. The 
 treacherous Pilima had taken care that the numbers of armed 
 natives should be absolutely overwhelming, and so having been 
 caught in the trap there was nothing for Major Davie but to 
 die or capitulate. After the loss of a considerable number of 
 men Davie therefore agreed to terms, whereby he was to be 
 allowed to march to Trincomale. The road thither necessitated 
 the crossing of the Mahaweliganga about three miles from 
 Kandy, at a place called Paranagantota, which literally means 
 "old village ferry." Hither they were permitted to proceed 
 and to take with them their royal protege, Muttu Samy. But 
 to their great consternation the river was considerably swollen 
 by recent rains and the passage was rendered for the moment 
 impracticable. Major Davie therefore halted his men upon a 
 knoll overlooking the river quite close to the ferry, where they 
 bivouacked round a bo tree. This bo tree was flourishing two 
 or three years ago ; but when I photographed it this year 
 (1907) the trunk had completely withered and the branches were 
 bare ; but fortunately there was amongst the apparently dead 
 wood a new shoot which it is to be hoped will in time grow into 
 a fine successor to the original and serve as a memorial of the 
 terrible fate which here bcfel the British troops. For two days 
 the river remained impassable ; a circumstance of which the 
 wily Pilima was doubtless aware. He now came and obtained 
 the surrender of the prince Muttu Samy, who was instantly 
 slain. He then offered to assist the troops to cross the river and 
 to provide them with guides to conduct them to Trincomale on
 
 400. DAVIES TREE. 
 
 401. KANDYAN CHIEFS.
 
 402. SCENE OF THE MASSACRE OF DAVIE'S TROOPS. 
 
 403. PARANAGANTOTA. WHERE DAVIES TROOPS FAILED TO CROSS THE RIVER.
 
 TH1-: ROOK OF CI•:^•Lo^■ 295 
 
 condition that they gave up their arms. With this condition Knndy 
 it was unfortunately agreed to compl\ . No sooner had thi 
 disarmament taken phice than a most diaboliial act of treachery 
 was enacted. Two by two the British soldiers were led into 
 a gully (Plate 402) out of sight of their comrades and 
 despatched by the swords, knives and ilubs of the Kandvans. 
 One man only, Corporal Harnsley, lived to tell the tale. He .Miraculous 
 walked to the fatal spot which he saw strewed with the bodies "c<*t>*'>/ 
 of his comrades ; the merciless sword fell upon the back of Banuicy 
 his neck and he was deprived of all sensation. Falling prone 
 forward amongst the bodies, he lay for some time unconscious 
 and then opened his eyes and saw natives stalking over the 
 slain and clubbing each head. In turn he received a blow and 
 again was reduced to insensibility. During his unconsciousness 
 he was stripped, and in this condition, when darkness came on, 
 he crept into the bushes and lay all night in a downpour of rain 
 with the muscles of his neck so severed that he had to support 
 his head with his hands. Nevertheless he swam the ri\er, and 
 meeting with a certain amount of luck in obtaining food, and 
 avoiding death, he was at length enabled to reach l""ort Mac- 
 Dowall, about eighteen miles east of Kandy, where he greeted 
 the British oflicer with the words, " The troops in Kandy art- 
 all dished, your honour." Upon receiving a full account, 
 Captain Madge spiked his gun, and succeeded in reaching 
 Trincomale with his men and Corporal Barnsley after the most 
 terrible privations, poor Barnsley having to support his head 
 with his hands during the whole march of about ten days. 
 Major I)a\ic was taken in rapti\it\ to Kaiui\ , where he is 
 believed to have died of disease some years later ; he ne\er 
 had an opportunity of explaining his surrender to a compatriot. 
 Our illustrations connected with this incident portray the 
 river where the ferry was situated (IMate 403) ; the bo tree where 
 the bivouac took place (IMate 400), and the gully where the 
 massacre is said to have been perpetrated (IMate 402). The sccneoiiht 
 place of the ferry is at the village of Mawilmada, near the 
 jjoundary between it and the adjoining village of W'atapuluwa, 
 not " Waterpologa " as some authors have written. After this 
 crime the ferry, possibly owing to superstitious reasons con- 
 nected with the massacre, was removed a short distani-e up the 
 river towards Katugastota, and there it remained until the 
 sixties on the old Matale road, till superseded by the construc- 
 tion of the new road and the Katugastota bridge in iS(>o. The 
 land on whii h the tree stands, still known to the villagers as 
 l)a\ie's tree, is now private property. It is easily reached by 
 proceeding for two miles from Kandy on tlie Katugastota road, 
 and then for a mile by the .Mutgantota road, whii h branches »»IT 
 near the second mile post. 
 
 Ill lis 5
 
 296 'II 1 1-: HOOK Ol' CiCN'LON 
 
 Kandy Siinc niv \isil in l*"cbrii;iry, 1907, the scene ol the massacre 
 
 has Ix'cn marked with a memorial stone bearini^ the followini^ 
 
 Davic'sticc inscription: " 1S03. June 26. Daxie's tree stood on the 
 summit ol this hill. 'J'his stone was j)laced here by the 
 Municipal Council ol Kandy, jhth June, 1907, close to the 
 scene of the massacre ol his troops, which the tree surxivcd 
 exactly 100 years." 
 
 It was unfortunate that prompt and adequate retribution 
 could not be visited upon the authors of the massacre. Our 
 troops were decimated by death and disease, and owing to the 
 war with France no reinforcements were available. It was not 
 imtil a year later that a plan was formed to make a simul- 
 taneous advance from six different stations on the coast upon 
 the mountain capital. The commanders were selected, and 
 marching- orders given ; but at the last moment they were 
 
 Captain countermanded. By some extraordinary blunder, Captain 
 
 l".','n/J",!!'n,.i. [ohnston, who had been ordered to march from Batticaloa, did 
 not receive the order cancelhng his mstructions, and in con- 
 sequence he advanced with three hundred men. The march and 
 retreat of this little army were heroic. After a month's march- 
 ing and continuous fighting, during which they destroyed the 
 royal palace at Kundesalle near Kandy, they made their way to 
 Trincomale with a loss of forty-eight men. 
 
 No further attempt was made to take Kandy for eleven 
 years, during which period the tyrant king and his perfidious 
 Adigar Pilima continued their course of cruelty and wickedness, 
 till at length Pilima was detected in an attempt to assassinate 
 the king, and was immediately executed. His nephew Ehela- 
 
 Eheiapoia pola was appointed to succeed him. The name of Ehelapola is 
 associated with the last and most awful tragedy of all the 
 savage cruelties of the Kandyan kings. He inherited the 
 character of his uncle, and like him was soon occupied in 
 treasonable schemes. These were detected, and he fled to 
 Colombo for safety. King Wickrama, incensed at his escape, 
 adopted the savage course of inflicting punishment upon Ehela- 
 pola by putting to death his wife and children, after subjecting 
 them to hideous torture of such a kind that the details are too 
 shocking for mention. The constantly recurring acts of cruelty 
 at length sickened the Kandyans of their rulers and led the 
 mass of the people to wish for a change that would rescue them 
 from a government of irresponsible cruelty. 
 
 The deliverance, however, came from without. An atrocity 
 committed upon some British subjects, who visited Kandyan 
 territory for purposes of trade, proved too much for the 
 patience of the Government in Colombo. It was ascertained 
 that these traders had been seized by orders of the king, de- 
 prived of their ears, noses, and hands, and driven out of the
 
 MAP OF THE TOWN OF KANDY. 
 
 CEMETERY 
 
 S^rnh ,.f Var,;.
 
 405. THE ESPLANADE FROM MALABAR STREET. KANDY. 
 
 406. THE QUEENS HOTEL. KANDY.
 
 THK BOOK OF CKVLOX 
 
 299 
 
 teri"it()i'\ , their sexcrcd mcinbcrs hanyiiii( rouiul tliL-ir necks, 
 and IK) tiiiK' was lost in preparing- tor war. Within a lew weeks 
 Kandy was in possession of the British. The kin<j was cap- 
 tured at Medamahainuwara under circumstances which will be 
 described later when we take an excursion into the district 
 where the events occurred. He was deposed and deported to 
 the fortress of X'ellore in India, and at a convention of the 
 cliicls licld ill the i^rcat Audience Ilall (il the palace [Plate- 445) 
 liis (loniiiiioiis wci'c 1 1'ansfcrrcd to the i^ritish Crown. The 
 chiefs were to retain lluir loi-nicr authi)i'ity, and the religion 
 of Buddhism was to be maintained. Tliese la\ourable terms 
 were soon abused, and witliin tliree years almost the whole of 
 the interior country was attain in arms. The insurrection was 
 dinirult to suppress and cost the li\es of a thousand British and 
 ten times as man\- natixes. The chiefs ha\ing- broken the terms 
 of the con\ention which preserved to them their ancient powers, 
 thenceforward they were required to administer their districts 
 under the immediate superxision of British cixilians. 
 
 (iood <40vernment speedily brought about contentment and 
 the rapid adxancement of cixilisation. And recrudescence of the 
 wars, which had lasted for three hundred years, was guarded 
 against by the construction of good military roads. It seems 
 to us somewhat strange that no allcinpt was e\cr made by tlic 
 I'ortug'uese or Uutcli during tiieir three centuries of warlare 
 with the Kandyans to compass their end by means of roads. 
 Roman history had afforded many notable examples of this 
 mode of conquest from which they might have profited. The 
 new roads of the British soon broke down the exclusive habits 
 of the inland population, and the march of progress has been 
 continued without interruption to this day. 
 
 l'"reedom and the benelits that follow in its train ha\(.' now- 
 become familiar to the Kandyan mind, and peace, prosperity 
 and contentment are now enjoyed b\' a jieople lor centuries 
 accustomed to serfdom, |)o\i'rt\ and the excesses ot unscru- 
 pulous t\rants. 
 
 Before we ])r()(cc(l to describe Kandy :l^ it will be found by 
 the lra\cllei- to-(la\ it may be useliil to rcniaik that during 
 the months ol Octoljer to April it is always adx isable for in- 
 tending \ isitors to book hotel rooms in acUam i-. It frequently 
 happens that several large sti-amships arrive at Colombo 
 together, and a rush for Kandy is made by a largi' number of 
 their passengers, \\ ho iill the hotels to tlieir utmost capacity. 
 It is safer therefore to telegraph foi- a( commodalion, unless it 
 has been ascertained in Colombo that this (ourse is unneces- 
 sar\-. The local hoslelries comprise the Oueen's Hotel, whi«h 
 is a large and well-equipped institution, in a most con\fnient 
 situation; the l-"lorence Ilotel, (|uiet, comfortable and hoinc- 
 
 Kand) 
 
 Ihlr.iitimc 
 
 JlOIII 
 
 lUspotiitn 
 
 Effect of 
 military 
 
 roads 
 
 Peace aiul 
 conlciilvieiit 
 
 Ilotel accotii- 
 iitoilation III 
 
 A'liii.fv
 
 300 
 
 'JIIM I'.OOK Ol'" ("i:\I.()\ 
 
 KanUy 
 
 I'of'uhitioii 
 II till (II 1(1 
 
 The 
 
 landscape 
 
 The climate 
 
 Local 
 attractions 
 
 liUc In |)i( liir(s(|iic s^rouiuls u])(>\) \hv lake road; and many 
 smaller liolrls and boardint^ houses. 
 
 Tlic population of Kandy is about 25,000, of whom only 
 about one hundred are English. 'J"hc form of local govern- 
 ment is a municipal council of which the Government Agent is 
 the chairman, and the area embraced by the municipality is 
 about eleven square miles. The streets as well as the hotels 
 and the principal bungalows are lighted by electricity. 
 
 The exploration of the interesting features of the town may 
 be easily and pleasantly done on foot, with the occasional use 
 of a jinrickshaw. This useful little man carriage is obtain- 
 able as easily as in Colombo, and the rickshaw- cooly is under 
 similar municipal regulations. He can be engaged by the 
 hour for a trifling sum. The jinrickshaw is especially useful 
 if taken out on little expeditions and left by the roadside 
 during the exploration of places that are accessible only 
 by pathways off the beaten track. Horse carriages can be 
 obtained at the hotels. 
 
 As we ascend the steep acclivities the beauty of the land- 
 scape approaches the sublime ; we gaze across far-reaching 
 valleys where the Mahaweliganga rolls over channels strewn 
 with massive rocks, and through scenes of almost majestic 
 beauty ; we see the Hunasgeria peak towering above vast 
 stretches of vivid greenery where cacao groves are interspersed 
 with masses of lofty palms, with here and there patches of the 
 most lovely colour of all vegetation — the emerald hue of half- 
 ripe paddy ; the grandeur of the Matale hills and the whole sur- 
 rounding country which, when viewed from the heights that 
 embrace the town, is a panorama of surpassing loveliness. 
 
 Not the least charming feature of Kandy is the surprising 
 mildness of the climate. Its height above the sea is scarcely 
 two thousand feet, and its distance from the equator is but 
 six degrees ; yet a blanket at night is welcome and comfortable ; 
 whereas in Colombo it is never required. The days are hot 
 and somewhat glaring, owing to the lack of that red tint in 
 the roads which is so comforting in Colombo ; but the refresh- 
 ing early mornings and evenings admit of a goodly amount of 
 exercise. 
 
 The cosmopolitan character of the visitors will be at once 
 apparent ; for not a week passes without the arrival of scores 
 of fresh tourists from every part of the world. They come here 
 to see the home of the later Sinhalese kings ; the famous and 
 beautiful mountain-stronghold that was the last part of Ceylon 
 to fall into the hands of the foreigner ; the Dalada Maligawa, 
 or Temple of the Sacred Tooth of Buddha ; the quaint manners 
 and customs of a people whose ancient dynasty endured for 
 twenty-four centuries ; the interesting temples and religious
 
 408 415. LAKE VIEWS. KANDY.
 
 Tin-: HOOK oi" c"I•:^■I.o^■ 
 
 "O^ 
 
 ceremonies of the Buddhist cult ; the perlection of tropical Kandy 
 botany and ai;;;riculture ; and the most beautiful walks and 
 drives in the tropics. W'c depend chietly on our illustrations to 
 ijivc a correct idea of the scenery, but we must refer to some 
 of the more notable featuris. The roads are bordered with 
 tine trees and shrubs, and as we wind about the hillsides the 
 frequent openinj^s in the luxuriant foliai^e form exquisite frame- 
 work through which we see the distant landscape (see plate 
 410). 'ihe avenues are as varied as they are beautiful. Here Theaxrenuei 
 (I'lati' 3SS) we are passings beneath an arch of bamboos which 
 throw their feather} fronds from either side until they meet; 
 tii:re (Plate V)^)) t'l'' i^rateful shade is bestowed by the huije 
 broad leaves of the ]ilantaiiis that i^row in profusion e\ery- 
 where. These plants reach the heiijht of twenty feet. The 
 fruit ((generally known in Kurope as the banana) is so familiar 
 all over the world that it needs no description. W'e mav, how- 
 ex er, remark that each plant after about a year's i^rowth will 
 l^robably bear about three hundred fruits wei^hino; above sixty 
 pounds ; and it will then die exhausted by its bounteous effort. 
 
 1' ruit and flowers of forms quite strani^e to the \ isitor s^^row Contract 
 in profusion everywhere, impressing one with the idea of luxury tu'ul*"^ 
 and plentv. W'e {i'v\, as wc roam along the paths, how happy 
 and contented nuisl be the ])eople who live amidst such sur- 
 roundings ; and w f rt llect upon the contrast which it all bears 
 to the l)arbariaii and poverty-stricken Kandy under the tyrant 
 kings, wlicn the food of the i:)co])lc cliieflv consisted of bark 
 and roots, and their homes were squalid bcvond conception. 
 Such a transformation as this influx of wealth and comfort 
 under British rule must be a convincing proof to the intelligent 
 natives that their citadel at length fell to worthy conquerors, 
 and a matter of proud satisfaction to ever\- Briton who ri'tlects 
 on thi' result of the enterprise. 
 
 The visitor who arrives at Kand\' in the evening will prob- The lake 
 al)l\ be attracted to an after-dinner stroll round the laki-, by 
 the lower road, ii|)on the banks (Plates 40S, 415 and 43<>). 
 The lirst impressions gained amidst the buzz of myriads of 
 w^ingcd insects, and the weird effect of the overhanging hill- 
 sides, sparkling with the fairy lights of fireflies, will not be 
 easily forgotten. At a thousand points through the darkening 
 foliage these wonderful little spirit-lights app<'ar and \anish. 
 Moonlight ( lTc( ts of ])Ui'(l\ tropical scenerv are to be s«'en to 
 perfection here, wliiic the hold fronds of the jialms, the 
 traxeller's ticc, and the ])1antains stand in black relief at 
 various eU-vations in the soft white light. 
 
 But the earh lisi r will di'light more in the effects of dawn 
 from the higher walks and dri\es. Two roads encircle the lake 
 — the lower at the water's edge and the upjier at a high eleva-
 
 304 'II lie liOOK OI' CHVLOX 
 
 Kandy lion on the hillsides. W'c choose the latter, and no sooner 
 
 ha\(' \\c ascended to a moderate height, than a series of 
 hcautilul landscapes is presented to us through openings in 
 the shrubs and trees which border the road. As we wind about 
 tin- varied curves, the ever-changing aspect of the town and 
 surrounding country presents a constant difference of outline 
 and colour which is most enchanting. 
 
 {-"'')' , Hn far the most interesting walk or drive in Kandv is that 
 
 iVatk known as Lady Horton's, from which a distant view of the 
 
 road just described can be obtained. Here we take our stand 
 for a few moments and gaze across the lake at the tea estates 
 upon the opposing slopes. There we notice a rugged cliff 
 rising to the height of 4,119 feet. This is the highest point of 
 the tea-growing district known as Hantanne. 
 
 Hmiianiie Although tea is the chief product of the Hantanne district, 
 
 it is bv no means the only one. Many of these acres are planted 
 with cardamoms, pepper, cinchona, cacao, nutmegs, and there 
 is even some coffee remaining as a relic of the old days when 
 that product was king. 
 
 The uncultivated hill on the left of Hantanne is a point of 
 vantage from which magnificent stretches of country may be 
 seen. It Is commonly known as " IMutton Button," a corrup- 
 tion of its correct name " Mattanapatana. " The ascent of this 
 hill, which is about 3,200 feet high, is a somewhat arduous 
 task, and occupies from two to three hours ; but our exertions 
 are well rewarded by the splendid views which it commands. 
 
 Dumhura In winding course we continue to ascend until, at the north- 
 
 eastern point, the valley of Dumbara bursts into view. In 
 spite of the clearings made for cultivation, it is still beautifully 
 wooded. The lovely jungle is, however, fast giving way to 
 the less beautiful but more remunerative tea and cocoa planta- 
 tions. This district is about 12,000 acres in extent, about 
 7,000 of which are now under cultivation. The elevation, 
 which is from 700 to 1,200 feet above sea-level, is found to be 
 most suitable for the cultivation of a large variety of products, 
 especially when, as is the case with Dumbara, the rainfall is 
 moderate and well distributed, being about sixty inches in the 
 year. We see, therefore, in Dumbara, fields of cacao or 
 chocolate trees with large rubber trees planted amongst them 
 for shade. Some estates consist of fields of pepper, arecanuts, 
 cocoanuts, cacao and coffee, while here and there are fields of 
 tea bushes interspersed with cocoanuts. \'anilla and carda- 
 moms are also represented. The district is, however, chiefly 
 noted for its cacao or chocolate, of which it has upwards of 
 five thousand acres. 
 
 Beyond the Dumbara valley we notice in the far distance 
 the outline of a noble mountain which is known as the Knuckles.
 
 
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 416 419. KANDYAN SCENERY AT THE RESERVOIR.
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVLOX 
 
 307 
 
 '•/the Tooth 
 
 The top of this mountain is shaped by four distinct peaks Kandy 
 resembhng the knuckles of the hand, from which it derives its 
 name. It is an important district under < uUivation f(jr tea, 
 cinchona, cardamoms, and other products. 
 
 We have mentioned Lady Horton's walk before desiribini^ 
 the town itself, because the tra\eller is recommended to take 
 the earliest opportunity of seeini;;^ the panorama of the Kan- 
 dyan country spread out before him from these heii^hts. The 
 entrance to the walk will be found in Kint^ .Street near the 
 gates of the King's Pa\ilion. The length f)f the walk is about 
 three miles. 
 
 One of the chief objects of interest to all traxcllers, and 
 generally the first \ isited is the Dalachi Maligawa or Temple 
 of the Tooth. 
 
 The Temple and the I'attirippuw a, which is the name of 
 the octagonal building on the right of the main entrance, ari' 
 enclosed by a Ncry ornamental stone wall and a moat. The 
 Temple itself is concealed by the other buildings within the 
 enclosure. Upon entering we pass through a small quadrangle 
 and turn to the right up a flight of stone steps to the Temple. 
 The most noticeable features are grotesque carvings, highh- 
 coloured frescoes, representing torments in store for various 
 classes of sinners, and images of Buddha. .A most ear-splitting 
 noise is kept up l)y tom-tom beating and the playing of \arious 
 native instruments. On either side are ilower-sellers, and the 
 atmosphere is hea\ \ w ith the perfume of lo\ ely white blossoms, 
 l^ach worshipper in the Temple brings an offering of some 
 fragrant flower. The beautiful Plumiera, with its pure creamy 
 petals and yellow heart, is the most popular sacrificial blossom, 
 and this, together with jasmine and oleander, is e\ery\\ hen- 
 strewn by the devout .Sinhalese. If our \ isit happens to be 
 made on a day of high festi\al when the adored relic is to be 
 exposed, the scene will be enli\ened by the presence of a large 
 number of yellow-robed priests, gaily-caparisoned elephants, 
 which are kept by the chiefs for ceremonial purpos;s, and the 
 chiefs themselves, who appear in their rich white and tjold 
 dresses and jewel-bedight hats. They are naturally handsonu' 
 men, and when attired in full i-ourt dress, they look \cry im- 
 posing. To begin with, thev contri\i' to wind about their 
 persons some hundred and rift\' yards ol line silk or muslin, 
 embroidered in i^old. This drajicry, tajiered linely down to the 
 ankles, ends in neat little frills. I\t)und the waist is fasteiud 
 a \elvet gold-embroideri'd belt. ()\er a shirt, fastened with 
 magniflcent jewelled studs, they wear a jacket with very full 
 sli'cves, fastened tight abo\ c the elbow, and made of Ijnnaded 
 silks of brightest Inii-. Their h.its are of \'ery curious shape, 
 even more la\ishly embroidered than the jackets, and studdetl
 
 of tlic Tvullt 
 
 308 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Kandy with jewels. Crowds of reverent worshippers of fjoth sexes, 
 
 ihcTcmi^u appareled in costumes of brilliant colours and irreat variety, 
 assemble 111 tlie spacious precmcts. 
 
 We notice a narrow doorway with two pairs of elephants' 
 tusks on either side, and some very curious metal work on 
 the door itself; this leads to a steep narrow staircase, at the 
 end of which is a door rnost elaborately inlaid with silver and 
 ivory ; this is the entrance to the little sanctuary which con- 
 tains the jealously-guarded sacred tooth, the palladium of 
 Ceylon, and an object of unbounded reverence to four hundred 
 millions of people. Within this chamber, in dim religious 
 light, is a solid silver table, behind which the huge silver-gilt 
 Dagoba, or bell-shaped shrine, with six inner shrines protecting 
 the tooth, is usually visible through thick metal bars. But on 
 great occasions the nest of priceless shrines is brought forw-ard, 
 and the tooth is displayed, upheld by a twist of golden wire, 
 from the heart of the large golden lotus blossom. The shrines 
 are all of pure gold, ornamented with magnificent rubies, 
 pearls, emeralds, and catseyes, and the last two are quite 
 covered with rubies. Besides these treasures, there are here 
 many priceless offerings and gifts of kings, including an image 
 of Buddha carved out of one great emerald, about three inches 
 long by two deep. 
 V'l ^'■'^''"'"' We are glad soon to retreat from this small chamber, so 
 
 hot, and filled with almost overpowering perfume of the 
 Plumiera blossoms, and to visit the Oriental Library in the 
 Octagon. In the balcony we pause awhile and look around 
 upon the motley crowd below. The chief priest with great 
 courtesy now shows us a very rare and valuable collection of 
 manuscripts of great antiquity. Most of them are in Pali and 
 Sanskrit characters, not written but pricked with a stylus on 
 narrow strips of palm leaf about three inches wide and sixteen 
 or twenty inches long. These strips form the leaves of the 
 books, and are strung together between two boards which form 
 the covers. Many of the covers are elaborately decorated with 
 embossed metal, and some are even set with jewels. Besides 
 the sacred and historical writings, there are works on astro- 
 nomy, mathematics and other subjects. 
 
 Plates 422 and 429 illustrate the interior of this library, 
 and will give the reader some idea of the appearance of the 
 oriental books both upon the table and the shelves. 
 
 Quite close to the large folding doors there may be noticed 
 in our picture a trap door in the floor of the library ; the danger 
 of this is its only interest to us. It is perfectly safe when 
 closed ; but on the occasion of my last visit it had been left 
 open by accident, with the result that upon entering the room 
 I made a not verv graceful descent into the lower chamber. 
 
 Library
 
 421. THE ENTRANCE OF THE TEMPLE OF THE TOOTH 
 
 422. THE ORIENTAL LIBRARY.
 
 THF-: HOOK OF CICVI.OX 311 
 
 1 cannot describe the sensation of my rapid disappearance, but Knndy 
 that 1 was ever capable of any further sensation after tlie ewnt 
 is equally inexplicable. 1 therefore give this word of caution 
 should a similar oversight occur again. There is one festival 
 connected with the Temple of the Tooth which the visitor will 
 not see, unless his \isit takes place in August — the Perahera. Jif'ah/ra 
 It is a nij^ht jjrorcssioii ol ])r(historic origin and forms one of 
 the most weird sight > lo he seen in this or an\' other countrv. 
 Attached to tlic temple is a stud ol sonu' lorty line elephants 
 which, wlieii not in use loi" ceremonial jiurposes, are kept on 
 the estates ol tlie iiati\f chiefs in the district. These elephants 
 are brought into the grounds and a night proi'cssion of the 
 following description takes place. The route, a large quad- 
 rangle in front of the Temple, is illuminated by ton-hes and 
 small lanterns placed in niches purposely constructed for them 
 in the ornamental walls. The linest elephant is taken into the 
 Temi^Ie by the main entrance, \isible in our picture on page 
 30f), and caparisoned with gorgeous trappings quite covering 
 his head and bod\ , the face-covering being richly embroidered 
 in gold, silver, and jewels, and surmounted with an image of 
 liuddha ; the tusks being encased in splendid sheaths. The 
 shrine of the tooth is ri'nioxed and phu ed withm the liowdah, 
 the whole being surmounted by a huge canopy supported by 
 rods which are held on either side by natixes. Two lesser 
 elephants are now biought up and decorated in a somewhat 
 similar mannei, and are tlun placed to escort the great ele- 
 phant, one on each side. Se\eral headmen, holding baskets of 
 flowers, now mount the elephants, and their attendants sit 
 behind, holding gold and siher umbrellas. The other elephants 
 follow in the wake, all mounted in a similar way by headmen 
 and tlieii- attendants. Between each section are rows of other 
 headmen in gorgeous dresses, and groups of masked de\il- 
 dancers in the most barbaric costumes, dancing frantiially, 
 exhibiting e\'ery possible contortion, and producing the most 
 hideous noise 1)\ the beating of tom-toms, the blowing of conch- 
 shells, the elanj^ing of lirass e\mbals, the blowing of shrill 
 jjijx's and other iiisl rnnienls devised to produre the most per- 
 fect de\il-musie thai r;iii be imagined. Nothing more eerii- 
 can l)e pictured than this procession, aboiU a mile long, con- 
 sisting of thousands of dark brown liguri's, gaily dressed, 
 intermingling with hideous groups of devil-dan<i-rs, all fran- 
 tically gesticulating around the forty elephants by the dim red 
 light of a thousand torches. The .\ugust I'erahera, which lasts 
 se\'eral da\s, has been regularly held for upwards of two 
 thousand \ears, and although Western idias are gradually 
 creeping into the Kand\an mind it would be rash at pres«iit 
 to predict its discontinuance. L'pon the occasions of ro\al
 
 312 Till': r.ooK ()!•■ (■|•:^■l.oN 
 
 Kandy \isits spcrial |)r()rcssi()ii.s alti-r llic in;inn( r ol the l'cr;ili('T;is arc 
 
 an an^fd by llic chicls in honour iil the cxints. One ol the 
 most brilliant was provided u Ik n I he I'rincc and i'rinccss of 
 Wales visited Kandy in 1901. About two thousand people and 
 sixty-three elephants took pai't in this great spectacle. Antjthcr 
 was presented this year (1907J upon the visit of 'I.R.II. the 
 Duke ol" Connaught and the Princess Patricia. 
 
 Before making any excursions in Kandy and its neighbour- 
 hood the visitor should glance through the description of the 
 architectural features to be met with, given on pages ;^2^ et seq. 
 in these pages are .to be found photographs of the Dalada 
 Maligawa already described, the Audience Hall of the Kandyan 
 kings, and all the interesting ivihdres, pansalas and clcwalcs. 
 I'kjuipped with some knowledge of these edifices, which arc in 
 such close association with the whole lives and thoughts of 
 the Kandyans, the stranger will find his interest in both places 
 and people quickened in no small degree. 
 The The Audience Hall (Plate 445) is in grounds adjoining 
 
 Ualr'" those of the Temple of the Tooth. It is an historic building, 
 and should be visited alike for its association with the 
 ceremonial of the Kandyan kings and for the sake of its 
 architecture. In the terrible times that preceded the British 
 occupation it is to be feared that it was too often a court 
 of tyranny and injustice; but it now' serves as the forum 
 presided over by the District Judge of Kandy. 
 The Behind the Audience Hall is the Kandy Kachcheri, or 
 
 hachcheii offices of the Government Agent of the pro\ ince, an extensive 
 and handsome building, but, alas ! having no feature of any 
 kind that harmonises with its surroundings. In an English 
 manufacturing town it would not be out of place ; but in 
 Kandy it is a deplorable incongruit}-. 
 Art Museum In the Same locality is an old building, said to have been 
 
 a portion of the palace of the queens in the days of the 
 monarchy, but now' used as a museum for treasures of Kan- 
 dyan art and craftsmanship ; it is, moreover, the home of the 
 Kandyan Art Association, a society formed to encourage the 
 preservation of the best traditions of Sinhalese art which, 
 previous to the introduction of Western influence, possessed 
 a character that was at once meritorious and distinctive. The 
 native cunning of the low-country craftsman may be said to 
 have diminished to a greater extent than that of the Kandyan, 
 who, owing to his being so completely shut out from the rest 
 of the world down to the nineteenth century, was limited to 
 the resources of his own immediate locality and to the crafts- 
 manship that had descended from father to son for many 
 generations. The result of this isolation is seen in some 
 special peculiarity that characterises all the ancient handiwork
 
 427. THE PRINCE OF WALES FOUNTAIt 
 
 1 
 
 ( 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 • > 
 
 11 
 
 
 •128. REMAINS OF THE QUEEN'S PALACE 
 
 429. ANCIENT OLAS IN T«t ON.INTA4. L-SKAar.
 
 430. CRAFTSMEN OF THE KANDYAN ART ASSOCIATION. 
 
 4;;i KANDYAN SILVERSMITHS
 
 THK HOOK Ol" Cl•:^LO.\ 
 
 ;l 
 
 that ma\ be nut with, uhttlKi' in architii tui-f, |)ainiini;, 
 textile work, implements ol ordinary use, or articles ot per- 
 sonal adornment. Skill developed among^ social conditions of 
 service tenure. I'lider this tenure the craftsman held lands 
 that suOiced to proxide him with food, and prosecuted his 
 art accorclini^ to the laws ol his caste, for its own sake and 
 not for money. His personal needs were so modest and few 
 that his ihoui^hts and his attention were nexer distracted b\ 
 an\iet\ for the morrow. Tlu- main j)rinciples of his art came 
 down as the les^acx' of a lon^^ line of ancestors who had been 
 enj^^ai^ed in its mysteries, and he apjDlied his skill both 
 hereditar\ and ap])lie(l to the needs and the fancies of his 
 patrons, and, like the masters of the middle atjes, found in 
 e\ crx detail of his work suih pleasure and delii^ht that even 
 the meanest objects were transiitjured into thiny^s of beauty. 
 The traveller may sec the truth of this in every antique sur- 
 \i\al of earlier times. But the Kandyan craftsman is e\en 
 now an artist, and althout^h he is no Ioniser uninlluenced by 
 the foreig'ner, the instinct to follow the traditional lines is the 
 strongest element in him. 
 
 Part of the old (Jueen's I'alaee adjoining tin- Museum is 
 gi\'en up to workshops where the traxeller may see artic-jes 
 of siKor and brass-work in jiroct'ss ol nianulaeture, may even 
 select a design for an\- article he lancies and see it in its 
 stages of fabrication if he has time to p:\\ an occasional visit. 
 Our illustrations (Plates 430 and 431) depict some of the 
 l\and\an art workers following their calling in the premises 
 of the museum. Their modest and simple methods will sur- 
 prise and interest us. .Seated upon the ground and surrounded 
 bv the needful appliances, the roughly constructed bIow-pi|)e, 
 the earthenware chattie containing a small charcoal fir- and 
 the box of self-made tools, they fashion the most delicate work. 
 Manv a treasure rej:)resenting the inherited artistic temp -rri- 
 mcnt of the Kandxan craftsman has been secured by the 
 traveller from this institution in recent years, and we recom- 
 mend the collector to a\ail himself of the present opi>ortunity, 
 as no man can sa\ how long the features which distinguish 
 the inherited genius of the Kand\an artist may hold their own 
 against the mechanical inlluences that ha\e already corrupted 
 W'estern handicrafts. 
 
 W'c shall see later, in our description of paddy cultivation, 
 how this inheritan(c of aitistic temperament influences the 
 commonest actions in their lives; how even the processes of 
 agriculture are associated with ceremonies that not mer<'ly 
 soften the tedium of labour, but introduce an element of joy 
 that is the outcome of their natural aptitude for prosecuting 
 everv task in the true artistic spirit. 
 
 KunJ> 
 
 \alive arts 
 and crafts 
 
 \\'orkihol>i 
 0/ the A Tt 
 A ssociitlion
 
 Pavilion 
 
 316 Till-: IJOOK Ol' CICYLOX 
 
 Kandy In the xicinitv ol the Ijiiildin^s referred to ;ib()\c is the 
 
 iiu-oiii old palace ol the Kaiidyan kiiii-s, or at an\- rale a considerable 
 
 portion ol It, now occupied b\- the ( iox eriiment A^-^ent ol the 
 Central Province as a pri\ate residence; it is therefore not 
 open to the inspection of the public, and for this reason several 
 \ie\vs of the interior and the charminj^- verandahs that extend 
 around it are i^iven here (Plates 433, 4H4, 492 and 493). T'ur- 
 ther relerence to it will be made on later pag^es. 
 
 Opposite the Old Palace is a walled enclosure of temple 
 buildings containing the Nata Dcwale (Plate 465), a dagaba, 
 a bo tree provided with a hoclhi-nialuwa or platform with an 
 altar for offerings, and several halls for educational purposes. 
 'Jhe principal entrance to this sacred enclosure provides the 
 artist with an excellent subject. Opposite this is the Maha or 
 \'ishnu Dewalc (Plate 467). This temple is on the borders 
 The King's of the King's Pavilion grounds, which are entered from King 
 Street. The King's Pavilion is the most charming of the 
 residences of the Governor of the Colony, and there is nothing 
 prettier in Kandy than the garden in which it stands. When 
 his Excellency is not in residence the public are admitted to 
 the grounds. The visitor will admire the noble trees and 
 ornamental plants that abound here. The house was built by 
 Sir Edward Barnes when Governor of Ceylon in 1834. It 
 was described by Sir PZmerson Tennent as " one of the most 
 agreeable edifices in India " (which if it had been in India 
 would no doubt have been true), " not less for the beauty of 
 its architecture than for its judicious adaptation to the climate. 
 The walls and columns are covered with chunam, prepared 
 from e^alcined shells, which in whiteness and polish rivals the 
 purity of marble. The high ground immediately behind is 
 included in the demesne, and so successfully have the 
 elegancies of landscape gardening been combined with the 
 wildness of nature, that during my last residence in Kandy 
 a leopard from the forest above came down nightly to drink 
 at the fountain in the parterre." 
 
 The house and grounds are still the same. Xoble trees 
 and ornamental plants abound everywhere and wild nature is 
 still found compatible with effective artificial arrangement. 
 Fine specimens of the Traveller's Tree are very noticeable 
 here. This tree is so called from the useful property possessed 
 by the leaves of sending forth a copious supply of water, 
 when pierced at the part where they burst forth from the stem. 
 Nor are the trees and shrubs the only features of interest in 
 this delightful garden; the creatures that appear everywhere 
 lend their aid to charm the naturalist : geckoes, bloodsuckers, 
 chameleons, lovely bright green lizards, about a foot in length, 
 which, if interfered with, turn quite vellow in bodv, while
 
 432. THE KINGS PAVILION, KANDY. 
 
 433 VERANDAH OF THE HLD I'ALACr KAND.
 
 434. THE BUND PARADE, KANDY. 
 
 lATUE OF Sir henry ward. 
 
 346. SCENE ON THE VICTORIA DRIVE.
 
 THH HOOK Ol" CI-:\I.OX 319 
 
 the head becomes brioht red ; glorious large butterflies, with Kiind> 
 most lustrous wings; blue, green, and scarlet dragon-flics ol 
 iinmcnsc si/c ; and gay birds, gi\ing life and colour to the 
 scene. Millepedes arc amongst the creatures eonstantlv 
 crawling about; they are about a foot long, as thick as one's 
 thumb, of a \er\' glossy jet black colour, and possessed of a 
 large iiumbc-r ol t)right yellow legs. I'hc strangest insects, 
 too, are seen amongst the shrubs, so near akin to plant life 
 that it is impossible to believe them to be alixe until thev are 
 seen to mo\e. 
 
 Opposite the entrance to the King's I'axilion is llu- h-iii^lish ( ,i<i,- .^ 
 Church of St. Paul, which was built about the middle of the •'"■''•"•' 
 nineteenth century. 'I'here are some features of interest in 
 the interior, the wood-work particularly testifying to the skill 
 of the Sinhalese in carxing. .At the west end there is a monu- 
 m;iit to officers of the Ceylon Rifle Regiment who serxed in 
 the Crimean War, and in the south transept there is a window 
 erected by the Ceylon Mounted Infantry in nieniorx of their 
 comrades who fell in South Africa. 
 
 Next to .St. Paul's Church, upon turning the corner which 
 leads to the Oueen's Hotel, is the Police Court, which mav 
 afford some interest to the visitor who has never before wit- 
 nessed the proceedings in an Eastern court of justice. Near 
 the entrance will be noticed a fountain erected by the Planters 
 of Cevlon to comnieniorate the \isit of his M;ijest\ King 
 lulward in 1^75. 
 
 The X'ictoria h^splanade, with its charming and useful lawn I'lV/ond 
 that stretches from the Oueen's Hotel to the Temple, is the '■■'t''a<""i<^ 
 rendez\()us of the public on all occasions of festi\it\'. It is 
 adorned on one side b\- a picturescjue wall after the character 
 ol that which sunouiuls the Temple, and on the other bv the 
 handsome' wall of the grounds known as the Temple h'n- 
 closure. On the lawn will be noticed a monument to the 
 members of the Ceylon Planters' Rifle Corps who fell in the 
 Soiilli African War; and another commemorating Sir Henry 
 \\ ard, one of Ceylon's ablest Ciovernors. These e\tra( ts from 
 his speeches arc recorded on the pedestal : 
 
 •• 111 ,ill civili/ed countries it is with material improvements that all 
 
 other improvement hcKins." 
 '• My conscience tells me that to the best of my judgment and abilities 
 
 I have tried to do my duty by you, and it is my hope that you 
 
 will think of me hereafter as a man whose whole iieart was in his 
 
 work." 
 
 T"or :i short walk or drive lew |)laccs provide a more 
 interesting and l)e;iutiful road lli.ni that which encircles the 
 Kaiulv Pake. The formation of this exceedini;lv ornam«-tUal
 
 reservoir 
 
 320 'I'lII'. IU)()K ()!• CI-:\'LON 
 
 Kundy piece ol Wilier is ;ilt rihuted to Wickrama Rajasinha, the last 
 
 ol the Kaiuhaii kini^s. Some of its greatest aesthetic attrac- 
 tions oNcr and ahoxc its lo\cly situation are however due to 
 the interest taken in the imprcnements of Kandy by many of 
 the Governors and (Jovernment Aj^ents who have lived there 
 from time to time. Thus Sir William (irej:^ory added the 
 ornamental wall upon the bund. The upper road affords the 
 best views, amongst which is that depicted by our photo- 
 
 iivia- Park graph (Plate 393), taken from W'ace Park, a small ledge on 
 the hill-side tastefully laid out, at the suggestion of the late 
 Mr. Wace, when he was resident as Government .\gent. No 
 \'isitor should fail to take a stroll to this spot, which is but 
 about five minutes' walk from the Queen's Hotel; and those 
 who want specially pretty subjects for the camera should 
 obtain a pass from the Secretary of the Municipal Council, or 
 from Dr. Anderson Smith, the medical adviser to the Council, 
 who lives at the Queen's Hotel, to be admitted to the grounds 
 which enclose the Reservoir of the Municipal Water Supply. 
 
 TIl^...,^;,. This reservoir is reached by the road which passes at the 
 
 back of Wace Park, the distance being half a mile. The 
 lovelv shaded walks around the reservoir, with constant pretty 
 openings disclosing vistas across the glistening waters, pre- 
 sent an opportunity to the enthusiastic amateur photographer 
 that should not be missed. Some proof of this may be 
 gathered from plates 416 to 419. 
 
 Gregory The GrccTorv road, which is the upper of the two lake 
 
 roads, provides many beautiful views, and is most convenient 
 for a short walk or drive in the early morning when the 
 mountain air is keen and invigorating. Indeed, the first stroll 
 along this road is one of very slow progress, and as a rule 
 the fresh comer will not go far the first time, but return 
 again and again at his leisure. 
 
 Two minutes' walk in a direction opposite the entrance 
 of the Queen's Hotel will bring us to the picturesque corner 
 of the lake illustrated by plate 438, near which there are fre- 
 quently quaint and amusing scenes to be witnessed. Here 
 the overflow of water from the lake rolls down a fall of stone 
 steps, on which the native delights to disport himself with the 
 water dashing over his dusky form. In the pool below the 
 more energetic indulge in strange forms of water frolic, while 
 still further on the dhoby is busy in cleansing calico attire by 
 the effective method of beating it upon huge blocks of stone. 
 The visitor will also find amusement in the curious methods of 
 toilet being performed upon the banks beneath the shade of 
 the beautiful bamboos that embower the spot. Here, too, is 
 an excellent opportunity for the snapshotter ; for not only are 
 there water and bamboos, a combination alwavs effective in 
 
 road
 
 437. WAGE PARK. 
 
 438. A PICTURESQUE CORNER NEAR THE QUEENS HOTEL.
 
 THE BOOK OI" CKM.OX 
 
 a photograph, but we haw also straiii^c objects and no\cl Kandy 
 occupations in i^rcat \ai'i(t\, so com iiiiintly situated that 
 \isjts ma\ be repeated as olttn as ma\' Ije necessary or 
 desired. 
 
 The streets of KaiuK will interest tlie \isitor onI\ in so The streets 
 far as thev afford a i;Iini]isi' of nati\e town Hie and oeeuj)ation 
 in the bazaars ; this is, howcxer, ah\a\ s amusin<4' to the 
 visitor who is a stranj^er to Eastern customs. In Kandy it 
 is much pleasanter to visit the bazaars than in Colombo, owiiii,^ 
 to the cooler atmosphere and the wider and cleaner streets ; 
 indeed one may walk throui^h them in comfort. 'IVineomale 
 street and Colombo street should at any rate be visited. Near 
 the bottom of King street may be seen the only remnant of 
 a Kandvan chief's iva\ai^'i.\.Hi or residence that has sur\i\cd 
 from the time of the Kandvan kini^s (Plate ■\2^). 
 
 Ward street is the chiel thoi'oLit;lilare ol Kaiuh aiul |)<)s- 
 sesses the Europi'an stores, banks, the Oueen's Hotel, the 
 Kandy Club and the X'ictoria Commemoration buildings whi( h 
 are occupied as the headquarters of the Planters' Association 
 of Cevlon. This edifice was erected 1)\ the Planters of Cevlon 
 as their memorial of the Diamond Jul)ilee of Queen X'ictoria. 
 Turnins^- to the left at the bottom of Ward street the road 
 becomes \ery picturesque (Plate 440), and on the wa\ to the 
 railwav station the market (Plate 439) is seen trouted b\ a 
 handsome i^ardeii of palms, the most prominent of which is 
 the Talipot (Plate 441). Lj^oii nearini; the railway station 
 (Plate 44-') an extensi\c buildini; will be noticed on thi' rit^ht, 
 amidst llowcrini,'' shrubs and noble trees — the Post Oilice. 
 This part ol Kand\' is known as the \ak' ol Poi^ambra, the 
 scene of main' a trat^cdv in the time ol the Kanchan inonarcln, 
 including the txraniious and i^hasth' execution ol the Elu'lapdla 
 laniiK to which we h:\\v ah\'a(l\' releri'ed.
 
 443. TRIPLE MONOLITHIC PILLAR AT 
 {Hce p. 342.)
 
 THK BOOK OF CF.VLOX 325 
 
 For the bencHt ol those who may be interested in Kand\an Kand>an 
 Architecture the text ol the lollowini^ description lias been Architecture 
 kindly contributed by the Hon. Mr. J. V. Lewis, M.A., C.C.S., 
 
 Government Assent of the Central l*ro\incc of Ceylon. 
 
 B\ Kan(l\an architectuix- in these pas^'es is meant the archi- 
 tecture of tlu' last two or three hundred years in Kandy and 
 its neii^hbourhood, as distinct from the architecture of the 
 older period of C"e\ Ion historv. This architecture, thouijh not 
 elaborate or possessing many examples, has at the same time 
 a distinct character of its own, noticeable by even the casual 
 \'isitor. it is certain, howcxci', that an appreciation of Kandyan 
 architei-ture cannot be predicated of the earlier I^ritish writers 
 on Ceylon. Dr. Davy, in his " Account of Ceylon " jiublished 
 in 1821, remarks of "the public buildins^s " in the interior of 
 the island that " few, if any, excite a li\fly interest in the 
 spectator," and he describes the temples as strongly reminding 
 the obser\ir " ol the ChiiU'se st\le of buildini;-; indeed, the 
 temples of Hoodhoo in t^fiieral ha\e a \ er}- Tartar aspect 
 (P- 253). 
 
 Ahijor h'orbes in his " I^Iexcn 'Sears in Ce\lon," published 
 in 1S40, dismisses the suijject still more curtly. He sa_\s ol 
 " the buildinsjs remaining from the lime of the nati\e dynasty " 
 that "there is nothini^" wortln of remark either in their archi- 
 tecture or decorations " (\'oI. !., p. -'<j(j). 
 
 That the remnants of Kanchan architecture are so few may 
 be clue to the fact mentioned b\' Major I""orbes that " the kins^- 
 (lid not permit an\- person to have a house two storeys his^h, 
 nor to build one with \\indows, nor even to roof with tiles nor 
 whitewash mud walls, without obtainint^ the rv)\al sanction."* 
 " The dwellins^s ol the people in i^eneral . . . are in- 
 \'arial)l\' thatihed; oiil\ those ol the hli^lu'st rank beiiii^ 
 permitted lo ha\e tiled rools." Onl\ the kintj's |jalaie anil 
 relij^ious buildini^s were allowed to have doors with orna- 
 mental to]:)s, or iinials to the roofs, or to ha\e ila^s hoisted 
 on tliem.t 
 
 Hut that l)i'. l)a\y and Major h'orbes have condemned 
 Kandvan architei ture too IiastiK 1 hope to be able to show. 
 
 The arrliiteriui'e which it most resembles would appear to 
 l)e that ol the temples of Mudbidri in Kanara or the 'i'uluxa 
 country on the; Malabar coast, and it is perhaps sis^nilicant that 
 the relijj;-ion of the people of this countrv is jainism and that 
 " the rclij^ions ol the Huddhists and the jains were so similar 
 to one another both in their orii^in and their dexi'lopment and 
 doctrines, that their architecture must also at one time ha\f 
 
 * Vol. I., p. 7S. See also Tennent, ^ih luiit., \'oI. II , p 195. 
 f Davy, p. 236.
 
 326 nil-; I'.OOK Ol- CEVLOX 
 
 Kandyan hccii n(;i:l\ the s;inic. A strong' presumplion that the archi- 
 
 Architecture tcctuic (jl the two sects was simUar arises from the fact of 
 
 their sculptures beini; so nearly identical that it is not always 
 
 easy to distinguish what belongs to the one and what to the 
 
 other."" 
 
 Fergusson remarks of the Jains that " their architecture is 
 neither the Dravidian style of the south nor that of northern 
 India." He states further that "this style of architecture 
 is not known to exist anywhere else in India proper, but 
 recurs with all its peculiarities in Nepal." 
 
 The chief of these peculiarities noted by I-"ergusson is that, 
 though carried out in stone, it seems to owe its form to 
 examples executed in wood. lie adds that the pillars (of the 
 Mudbidri temples) " look like logs of wood with the angles 
 partiallv chamfered oft, so as to make them octagons, and the 
 sloping roofs of the verandahs are so evidently wooden that 
 thev cannot be far removed from a wooden origin. In many 
 places, indeed, below the Ghats the temples are still wholly con- 
 structed in wood without any admixture of stone, and almost 
 all the features of the Mudbidri temples may be found in wood 
 at the present day. Long habits of using stone would have 
 sobered their forms." He thinks that the excess of car\ing to 
 be found on the pillars in the interior of the temples is an indica- 
 tion of their recent descent from a wooden ancestry. 
 " Nothing can exceed the richness or the variety with which 
 they are carved. No two pillars are alike and many are orna- 
 mented to an extent that may seem almost fantastic." 
 
 Now these features of the architecture of the Mudbidri and 
 Nepal temples which most struck Fergusson, viz. the wooden 
 or stone pillars with the angles partially chamfered off, and 
 the sloping roofs, are also strongly characteristic of the Kan- 
 dyan temples and other buildings. The Audience Hall of the 
 kingst (Plates 444 and 445), which is now used as a court- 
 house, consists of a high-pitched roof supported by four rows 
 of wooden pillars arranged so as to form a nave with its aisles, 
 supported on a stone platform and without walls, the building 
 being open on all sides. The pillars are richlv car\cd in 
 different patterns and they are in shape partlv square and 
 partly octagonal. They support heavy beams and a king-post 
 roof. The wall plates are elaborately carved and have carved 
 terminals. The roof projects considerably over the pillars. 
 
 * "History of Indian and Eastern .Architecture," by James Fergusson, 
 pp. 207-8. 
 
 + It was begun in 1784 by king Rajadi Raja Sinha, the last king but one 
 Cad. 1780-1798), but it was not completed until after the British occupation. 
 The pillars were still being carved about 1S20. They are made of halmilki 
 (Berrya Ammonilla), brought from Nalande, 30 miles distant.
 
 
 444. ROOFS OF THE AUDIENCE HALL AND TEMPLE OF THE TOOTH. 
 
 445. THE AUDIENCE HALL
 
 446. THE KATARAGAMA DEWALE, KANDY. 
 
 447. ANTEROOM OF EMBEKKE DEwAlE.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 329 
 
 'Ihc slope o! the roof o\ cr tlTc aisles is at a less acute aiit^le Kandyan 
 than that of the roof of the main part of the building. 'I'liis Architecture 
 is found in most Kandyan buildings. The whole rcjof thus 
 assumes a more or less concaxe appearance (Plate 444J and to 
 the superficial observer exhibits a sort of curl which no doubt 
 helped to give rise to the impression formed of these i:)uildings 
 by Dr. Davy that they resembled the Chinese style f)f building, 
 and led him to speak of their "pagoda style."* 
 
 Dcwendra Mulachariya was the builder of the Audience 
 Hall in Kandy. The chiefs who furnished timber complained 
 to the king that the Mulachariya (chief artificer) shortened and 
 then rejected the beams brought ; the king thereupon threatened 
 to cut off the fingers of the offender, who to a\oid the disgrace 
 threw himself into the lake. He also took part in the con- 
 struction of the Octagon (//. IC. ('i)ili'iii<:;to)i). 
 
 The ante-room or hall for tiu' tom-tom beaters"!" of the 
 dcwi'ilc at Embekke; (Plate 447), a temple built, according to 
 tradition, in the time of King \Vikrama Bahu III., who reigned 
 at (iampola a.d. i37i-i;?78, is exactly similar in plan to the 
 Audience Hall. There are four rows of seven wooden pillars in 
 each row (Plates 447 and 451), with four additional pillars 
 at the entrance, and the usual drooping lotus capitals. There 
 is great variety in the patterns carved on the central squares 
 of these pillars — greater than on those of the Audience Hall, 
 but the ornamentation is not so elaborate. The walhalkaila or 
 porch at the entrance to the enclosure of the temple has similar 
 pillars (Plate 450). 
 
 In these buildings are to be seen figures of the goddess 
 Laksmi, of horse and foot warriors armed with sword and 
 shield ; of dancers and wrestlers ; of mythical animals, lions 
 and birds with elephants' trunks, creatures half bird and half 
 human ; birds with two heads like the Russian or German 
 eagles ; the sacred goose in various attitudes, sometimes with 
 a Hower in its beak ; of combinations of women and birds and 
 women and flowers, or of more mundane women suckling their 
 infants; of flowers of different kinds; also a curious but very 
 artistic pattern evoKed out of a string in eight knots some- 
 thing like a design made from the sliouhh i- knots of a British 
 officer (Plate 44S). 
 
 * He says that he is not aware of the existence of this feature anywhere 
 else south of \epal, !oc. cit., p. 271. The slopes of the roof of the upper 
 storey of the uuiclum of the Kataragam (huulle at Kandy, however, are actually 
 concave (Plate 446). It has been suggested that these roofs may be due 
 to Siamese influence. 
 
 t This may be said to correspond to the narthex or western porch of a 
 Christian church. 
 
 I About nine and a half miles fmrn Kandv— between Kandy and Gampola. 
 w
 
 330 Till': iJooK oi' (•|•;^■|X)X 
 
 Kandyan 111 a niitil ihiiti or I'cst -liousc lor t r;i\ cllci's (I'latc 44<jj 'lose 
 
 Architecture j^, ,|,,. j,.-^,,;/,, ^c liiul tile cx.-nt ( oil lit cri);!!-! ol llicsc pillars 
 
 cxcrulcd in bard i^raiiitc witli the same i)attcrns that adfjrii 
 
 the wooden pillars ol the temple buildinj^s. 
 
 In the 'l'em])le ol the 'i'ooth* (Plate 452] we ha\e similar 
 
 pillars also in stone, but here the carNing- is much less elaborate. 
 
 In lact here lliei-e is the minimum ol i-arxing- and its place is 
 
 taken 1)\ |)ainlinL;s on the s(|uare |)ortions of the |)illars (Plates 
 
 453 :""' 4- 0- 
 
 In its simplest form the Kandyan post or i)illar is a mere 
 rectangular column of stone or masonry, as at the Alut W'ihare 
 at Asgiri\a (Plate 455) and at Gangarama. The cylindrical 
 brick i)illar plastered over, either standing singly or coupled 
 and ending in a plain moulded capital, which is now so much 
 affected in the restoration of temples, is copied from modern 
 British building in Ceylon, and has no warrant in nati\e 
 architecture. 
 
 The truth of the statement as to the resemblance of the 
 Kandyan temples to those of Mudbidri will be apparent to 
 anyone who compares the Temple of the Tooth at Kandy and 
 the Lankatilake Temple (Plates 459 and 460) in its neighbour- 
 hood with the pictures of the Jaina temples at Mudbidri given 
 on pp. 271-272 of Fergusson's book.f 
 
 It must, however, be remembered that the wooden pillars 
 of the Audience Hall and other buildings in Kandy, though 
 characteristically Kandyan in the details of their carving, and 
 the stone pillars of the Temple of the Tooth are very similar 
 in shape to the stone pillars seen in Hindu temples in Southern 
 India and North Ceylon, which are probably traceable to a 
 wooden origin. It is true that they resemble the Mudbidri 
 pillars in having " the angles partially chamfered off so as to 
 make them octagons " — or rather partly square and partly 
 octagonal, but after all this is an elementary shape for a wooden 
 pillar to assume, and when it is carried out in stone the same 
 shape would naturally be followed. The capitals, too, of the 
 pillars, which usually consist of two blocks of wood or stone 
 placed crosswise with drooping lotus flowers carved on the 
 under sides, appear to be of a Hindu pattern. 
 
 In the Kandyan wooden pillars the square surfaces that are 
 left half way up, as well as those of the octagonal shafts, are 
 utilised for elaborate carved patterns of conventional floral and 
 other artistic designs. This has become so characteristic a 
 fc^iturc that these j:)illars arc spoken of generally as " Kandvan 
 
 * The Temple of the Tooth was buih by King Xarendra Sinha 
 (1706-1739). 
 ' t See especially his figures on pp. 150, 154, 172. 173.
 
 If
 
 452 THE TEMPLE OF THE TOOTH. 
 
 453. PAINTED STONE PILLARS AT THE TEMPLE OF THE TOOTH.
 
 THK BOOK OF Ci:\LO.\ 333 
 
 pillars," and they arc tound not merely in temples, but in Kand>an 
 domestic buildings — wherever in fact the Kandvans had to ^'■'•'"t'^*-'"'''-' 
 erect a pillar. 
 
 Mr. Bell describes these pillars thus : " Wooden pillars 
 when car\ed all assume, with slight variations, a rectangular 
 form moditied and softened by chamfering to eight-sided shafts 
 between base and capital, and breaking its continuity bv 
 varied bands and square panels — the pillars virtually becoming 
 octagonal shafts with elongated rectangular base, capital and 
 central cube." He also notices that the stone pillars (in this 
 case at one of the temples in the Kegalle District, viz. 
 Ganegoda) carry out the original idea of wooden forms very 
 closely." Nearly all the carved wood pillars terminate in a 
 branched capital with helix and drooping lotus — the familiar 
 gones of the Audience Hall at Kandy.* 
 
 In the Kandyan temples then we have the same features 
 which are to be seen in those of Mudbidri and Nepal, the same 
 high pitched roofs of a concave appearance covering diminish- 
 ing storeys, their peaks crowned with a bronze finial, the same 
 verandahs with deep eaves, the same platforms with moulckd 
 stone edges forming basements for the superstructure, and the 
 same wooden or stone pillars *' square like logs of wood with 
 the angles partially chamfered off," supporting the verandahs 
 or upper storeys. 
 
 The metal hnials are more or less elaborate. Those on the 
 Temple ol the Tooth are said to be made of gold; thev are 
 more probabl\ gilded. Embekke Dewale possesses a fine 
 bronze one (Plate 454) dating from the early part of the nine- 
 teenth century. There is a figure of the goddess Laksmi on 
 each of the four folates which attach it to the apex of the roof. 
 
 In less important buildings the linials are of earthenware, 
 sometimes mere pots. 
 
 Like the Kandyan temples the temples at Mudbidri are of 
 comparatively recent date. Fergusson says that " three or 
 four hundred years seem to be about the limit of their age. 
 Some may go back as far as 1300, but it looks as if the king- 
 dom of the Zamorin was at the height of its prosperitv about 
 the time it was first visited by the Portuguese, and that the 
 finest temples may belong to that age."t 
 
 * "The pillars, rectangular at base, softened bv foliage carving in low 
 relief, changing into simple octagon with raised bands and panelled cube at 
 centre, returning to the squared form." (Report on the Kegalle histrict l)y 
 Mr. H. C. P. Bell, CCS . Archcxological Survey of Ceylon, published by the 
 Ceylon Government as Sessional Paper \o. XIX. of 1S92. See the Plate 
 opposite p. 22. Pages 19-21 give an excellent description of Kandyan archi- 
 tecture as found in the Kogalle District.) 
 
 t Page 274. The Lankatilake and Gadaladeniya temples were built in 
 A.D. 1344.
 
 334 Tin-: HOOK OF (KM^ON 
 
 Kandyan Small pa\ili()iis which may bf described as miniature repro- 
 
 ductions of ihe Audience Ilall are characteristically Kandyan, 
 and sei"\(' such purposes as reslin;^' places lor tra\cl!crs 
 (I'late 44<)]. They are scjuare in shape, and the nuinljer of 
 ])illars which support the ro(jf is either four, ei^lit, or sixteen 
 in inunbt-r. 
 
 One of tiu'se buildings, at Mnibekke, has been referred to. 
 It stands on a rock in the middle of a |)a{ld\' field, and consists 
 of a roof supported b\ an imier rectangle of four, and an outer 
 one of twelve, monolithic pillars of the usual pattern. 'Jhey 
 ha\{' not separate capitals, but each j^roup of four pillars at 
 each corner is treated as forminj^' a unit, and is surmounted by 
 four short beams laid cross-wise, with carved ends which take 
 the place of capitals. Over tliese beams are longer beams 
 which connect the four groups and support the roof. The roof 
 is not exactly square, but has a short ridge, each end of which 
 is crowned with a linial. There is a very similar madama, half 
 way between Kandy and Matale, of square plan, but with 
 wooden instead of stone pillars, which is said to have been 
 constructed of timber left over from the building of the Audience 
 Hall (Plate 456). Here also we have on the pillars the same 
 geometrical or floral patterns and figures of animals, the lion, 
 elephant, horse, and sacred goose — the latter in couples with 
 necks interlocked — a favourite Buddhist emblem. On some of 
 the pillars the equally sacred cobra is carved in a coil, resem- 
 bling a flower with its stalk. 
 
 The mythical animals here, however, are fewer than at 
 Embekke, ordinary animals predominating. There appears to 
 be no reason for doubting that the Embekke madama dates 
 back to the time of Wikrama Bahu III., i.e. the latter part of 
 the fourteenth century, and its plan only differs from the other 
 in that It is not quite a square, while in the other, though not 
 more than one hundred years old, the shape of the pillars 
 and the style of carving are identical. This serves to show 
 what we would expect to find, that Kandyan architecture has 
 changed little in the course of centuries. At Welagama, 
 six miles from Rambukkan on the road to Galegedara a 
 prettv little pavilion of this kind known like the Octagon at 
 Kandv as a patirippuwa, is found perched on the top of a 
 rock which juts up above the temple premises (Plate 457). It 
 covers an outline of Buddha's foot cut in the rock and the 
 whole thing serves devotional purposes as a sort of diminutive 
 Adam's Peak. It is said to have been built some eighty years 
 ago, and is in bad repair. 
 
 The features of these pavilion-like buildings have been more 
 or less successfully reproduced in recent times in a court-house, 
 amhalams or resting places for travellers, a band-stand, a
 
 4-j4 EMBEKKE DEWALb. 
 
 AbL.IIMiA WIH/JrE.
 
 456. MADAMA. 
 
 457. PAVILION OF THE HOLY FOOTPRINT. 
 
 458. AMBALAM NEAR TELDENIYA.
 
 THE HOOK OF CEVLOX 337 
 
 well roof, and in shelters for the act ommodatioii of witnesses 
 attending the courts. It was felt that no style was more 
 fitting for buildings in the Kandyan capital than this which had 
 come to be looked upon as " the Kandyan style." .An uvihulavi 
 buiU at Degaldoruwa by the chief man of the \illage in a 
 modern Kandyan style is a picturesque example, and the same 
 may be said of another, with stone pillars, near Teldeniya, 
 whi(-h was built bv a Tamil in a style whirh might be called 
 ciliicr Hindu or Kandyan (I'latc 45<'^). 
 
 Mrs. Murra\- Ainsk-y in the " Indian .\ntiquary " for 
 Januar\\ 1SS7,* has carried the comiKirison ol Nepal, Kuliu 
 and Kashmir tem[)les still further than .Mr. l-ergusson. She 
 sees in them a similarit\ to the old wooden church architecture 
 of Norway, and gives a picture of the wooden church at Ror- 
 gund (since unfortunately destroyed by fire) which was one of 
 the oldest in Norway, having been built in the ele\enth century, 
 in illustration of this similarity. 
 
 1 was nnself struck on my first \isit, with the resem- 
 blance of Lankatilake temple to a Norwegian church. I'erched 
 on a high rock, with its many gables, high-peaked roofs and 
 finials, its projecting eaves and its stone platform, the resem- 
 blance strikes one at once (Plates 459 and 460). The verandahs 
 of Borgund remind one of the Nepal, Mudbidri and Kandy 
 temples. " The chief object of the builders of the church seems 
 to have been to exclude both sun and light — which one could 
 understand if they had been living in the tropics instead of, as 
 they were, inhabitants of a high latitude." 
 
 Mrs. .'\insley, I may add, accounts for this resemblance by 
 the common origin of the two peoples in th^- same corner of 
 .'\sia. The following is a description of the church. " Starting 
 from the base of the exterior, a row of sloping eaves forms 
 the roof of a verandah whic-h encircles the basement ; a second 
 protects the walls of the lower half of the church ; and a third 
 forms the roof of the nave ; a fourth the roof of the belfry ; a 
 fifth and a sixth seem also to have been used for the sake 
 of giving s\mmetr\- to the whole. The quaint objects on the 
 gal)les of the third and fourth loofs are dragons' heads with 
 projecting tongues; an ornament that forcibK recalls that on 
 oriental and Chinese buildings." 
 
 .Applying this description to the Lankatilake temi^le we 
 should have to Stop at the third or fourth roof : but the geniMal 
 effect of the two buildings is much the same, and we ha\i' good 
 substitutes for the dragons in the monstrous heads with pro- 
 truding eyes which glare at us from above the lintels of the 
 doorways and in those mythical beasts compounded of croco- 
 
 • Vol. XVI., p. II. 
 
 Kand>an 
 Architecture
 
 33^ 'I'll' r.ooK oi" c■I•:^■L()^' 
 
 Kandyan (]\]v, del)!!;! nt , lisli .iiid lion, which .s])rau 1 down the balustrades, 
 
 Architecture ^^| ,,j^, ^,^.j^^ ^^^. ^^^^ j,^^. .,,.,.|,(_.^ of the doofway* (IMatc I, frontis- 
 
 llu' situation ol IJoi^uiui clnir' li, too, tjixcs a similar im- 
 pression to that conveyed by the position of a Kandyan temple 
 on its plateau amonm' wooded hills, enclosed within a low 
 woodi/n fence on a stone base (Plate 45<j). An elevated spot 
 on nat^t;r()und witli ]:)lenl\- cjf rock is usuall}' selected as the site 
 for a Kandxan temple. 
 
 In its plan the Lankatilake temple bears an outward resem- 
 blance to a Christian church. It has an appearance of being^ 
 cruciform, the transepts and chancel formin<^ side chapels which 
 are occupied by six dewales. The main building which is the 
 unharc forms the nave. It is occupied by a large sedent painted 
 image of Buddha said to be of stone. The wall and ceiling 
 are also painted, the former with figures of Buddha and of 
 his disciples, the latter in geometrical floral pattern. 
 
 The makani torana arch or canopy under which Buddha is 
 seated is supported on each side by a female figure who holds 
 up w'ith her hands over her head the base from which it starts, 
 after the manner of the Caryatides, and seems to bend with the 
 weight. This arrangement is also to be seen at the old ivilu'ire 
 at Asgiriya, and also at the Gedige Wihare, both much more 
 modern buildings. 
 
 The same is true to a certain extent of Gadaladeniya (Plates 
 461 and 4't2). Here the main building which corresponds to 
 the chancel or choir of a church is occupied by the iviliiire. It 
 is entered by a narrower room which forms a sort of ante- 
 chapel ; and opening out of this, on the right hand side as 
 vou enter from the outer porch, is a side chapel with a domed 
 roof of stone now capped by a peaked and tiled wooden one. 
 This chamber serves as a \'ishnu Jcuui/e. The door of the 
 deivdJe is flat topped, but the door frame is of stone deeply 
 carved in separate squares like a scries of tiles or plaques, with 
 figures of elephants, dancers, etc. The "chancel " is crowned 
 bv an octagonal dome of stone which is approached by steps 
 from the exterior, and is used as a second wihare. The inner 
 wall of this chamber is painted with scenes from the last of 
 the Five Hundred and Fifty Jatakas, the Wessantara Jataka. 
 These paintings are said to date from the time when the 
 iviJu'trc was built. The arrangement of the, deiiHile cutting 
 athwart the iviharc is curious. The same ante-chamber serves 
 
 * In Murray's Handbook for India it is stated that this temple " is 
 remarkable alike for its situation and for the character of its architecture, 
 which is very unlike that of any other temple in Ceylon " (p. 47S). The dis- 
 similarity is more in the size and elaborate character of the building 
 than in anything else.
 
 459. LANKATILAKE TEMPLE. 
 
 460. LANKATILAKE TEMPLE.
 
 461. GADAlAdENIYA TEMPLE. 
 
 462. GADALADENIYA TEMPLE.
 
 Tin-: BOOK OF CKVLOX 341 
 
 for both, used end on for the icihare and sidewavs for the Kand>an 
 dewcilc. Outside, on the left, is a detached digge or hall for Architecture 
 the tom-tom beaters, a buildins^ quite distinct, and apparently 
 not contemporaneous with the temple proper. Its roof is sup- 
 ported by ten roughly hewn monolithic pillars of irregular 
 rectangular shapes which exhibit no attempt at carving or 
 ornamentation, and no uniformity of size and appearance. They 
 are exactly like the pillars which one finds here and there stick- 
 ing- up in imperfect but parallel rows in the forests of the 
 North Central and Northern Provinces, and I imagine that 
 they are the oldest stone work which is to be found at 
 (jadaladeniya, older than the much more architectural temple 
 of the fourteenth century adjoining-, although the wooden roof 
 and masonry walls, of which these pillars form the skeleton, 
 have often been renewed, and their present representatix es are 
 modern rough and poor work. 
 
 Although the (jadahidiniya temple is much smaller than its 
 contemporary at Lankatilake, the masonry work is finer, being 
 of stone instead of brick, and the exterior ornamentation is 
 much more elaborate. In Ijoth temples the original walls of 
 stone or brick appear to ha\ e had a coating- of plaster, and this 
 was probably at one time painted. .At Lankatilake a portion of 
 the plastering- in the porch remains, but in modern times it has 
 been whitewashed. .\t Gadaladeniya it has nearly all crumbled 
 awa\-, exposing the original stone, but patches of it are left, 
 and some of these have painting on them which is said to date 
 from the building of the temple. It discloses a floral pattern. 
 There is a frieze of stone running round the upper part of 
 the wall of the main building, under the eaves, composed of a 
 chain of lions or tigers regardant* (Plate 461). .Along the base 
 and on the deivdJe this is changed for one of females dancing 
 and playing on musical instruments, and executed in a spirited 
 manner. In the ante-chapel are large stone corbels of sculptured 
 lions, two on each side. The entrance porch is (omposed of 
 huge monoliths twelve to fourteen feet long, supported bv \rrv 
 large stone pillars of the usual Kandyan shapi-, but with the 
 addition on the outer side of two slender pillars Hanking 
 the larger ones, so that they forni a cluster of three on each 
 side (Plates 443 and 4'\^J. These additional pillars which are 
 placed here for ornament are of a different pattern, and such as 
 are to be found in the older .Sinhalese teniples of the Kegallc 
 
 * Movine; to the left with right front legs raised high and heads rever.sed 
 in that conventional, uncomfortable position always given to rya/^ras and 
 i;(tf;asinluis (Hell, l(h'. sll., p. i,^). I'vi/a'^i/s are possibly tigers, and ,<;tit;iisiiihtis 
 combinations of elephant and lion. This frieze is almost identical with the 
 frieze at Ganegoda in Four Korees (see Bell's Kigalle /u/c);/, plate opposite 
 P- 35)-
 
 342 JIIIC I'.OOK ov c\-:\\A)\ 
 
 Kundyan (lisli-icl aiul of A nuiadliapuia. 'I'liis linii)lc and I.aiiUalilakc 
 
 Architecture , ,• , .. ,', , i •, . -.i .i i i 
 
 lorni a link i-oiinccting Kanci\an architecture with the (jlder 
 Sinlialese architecture of Anuradhapura and I'olonnaruwa. 
 
 'The woodwork ot the tiled ro,)l and tlie upper storey of the 
 porch are bcjth modern and imaii. It is lamentable to see 
 everywhere this process taking place ; old and artistic Kandyan 
 work is being removed and replaied by nondescript and hideous 
 modern work after the style of the petty masons and contractors 
 of the low country. The new temples are adorned with plaster 
 masonry, sometimes representing sham Venetian blinds, bastard 
 and attenuated Ciothic pointed arches are introduced ; the Kan- 
 dyan wooden pillars give way to round ones of brick plastered 
 over, of the stock quasi-classical pattern that was introduced 
 into the bungalows of the early English occupation ; the door- 
 ways have semicircular arches with poor mouldings ; the door 
 panels and mouldings are painted in ugly loud colours which 
 with the panels and mouldings have a Dutch character, but lack 
 the massiveness and picturesqueness of their Dutch originals ; 
 and the pretty quaint little windows are being replaced by 
 rectangular openings filled in with ugly wooden bars. 
 
 The following extract from a local paper shows the modern 
 conception of what the style of a temple should be, i.e. copied 
 for the most part from the West : — 
 
 " At the ?*Iusa}us school in the Cinnamon Gardens 
 it was decided to have a shrine room built for the use of the 
 girls of the institution. . . . The building has now- been 
 erected apart from the school buildings, and is a very pretty 
 structure, a vaulted roof with a fine dome, gothic windows, 
 doors and a porch, with parapet battlements of classic design, 
 being very efTectlve. " 
 
 The fondness of the Kandyans for putting a high pitched 
 tiled roof over everything is remarkable. A great deal of the 
 stone work of the temples differs little in appearance from the 
 Hindu architecture of Southern India, in fact, that of the 
 deivdles or temples of the Hindu gods whose cult was fostered 
 by the Tamil kings is almost exactly the same as that of similar 
 temples in Southern India* and the north of the Island. They 
 are small rectangular buildings consisting of compartments of 
 diminishing sizes, the innermost or sanctum surmounted bv a 
 small dome, or by what usually, among the Kandyans, takes 
 its place, a small square chamber with a peaked roof. No 
 doubt the masons who ijuilt them were workmen from southci'n 
 India introduced for this purpose by the kings, themselves 
 
 * Dr. Davy noticed this, but remarks that "in viewing the dcntilcs or 
 temples of the gods one is occasionally reminded of Grecian architecture " 
 (P- 255).
 
 463. GADALADENIYA TEMPLE
 
 464. GEDIGE WIHArE. KANDY. 
 
 465. NATA DEWALE, KANDY.
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVLOX 345 
 
 latterly of Tamil race. A Kaiuhan ilcii.H'ilc however is eenerallv Kandyan 
 
 a plainer buildinij than is a Hindu hovil,* with a less lavish 
 display of decoration usually conlined to the doorways and 
 pillars. But to these buildins^s the Kandyans have added 
 a feature of tluir own whirli was ncxer contemplated in the 
 original design and forms no part of it, but on the contrary 
 is quite out of keeping with it, and that is a peaked roof with 
 overhanging eaves. To put a roof over a dome of any kind 
 whether such dome is ornamented with carving and a stone or 
 metal finial as it generally is, or not, is technically a barbarism. 
 But this is what the Kandyans have done in the case of the 
 Lankatilake temple where the stone vaulted roof of the central 
 7vihare and those of the ilei^'i'iles which surround it like side 
 chapels were surmounted some sixty years ago with tiled and 
 peaked roofs, a feature which has added considerably to the pic- 
 turesqueness of the building ; also at Gadahideniya w here the 
 same thing was done 125 years ago with an equally good effect, 
 even though the roof has recently been renewed in a very 
 inferior modern style. The Gedige i<.'Uuiye (Plate 464) at 
 Kandy, which, though a temple of Buddha, is built in the style 
 of a Hindu cleicdle, both as to plan and details, is also a case 
 in point, t This building, in fact, bears a striking resemblance 
 to the Xata cleuu'ilc — another of the f(nn' Hindu temples at 
 Kandy (Plate 465). 
 
 In both there is a small dome^; at the south end o\er the 
 shrine terminating in a stone finial shaped like a pineapple. 
 In this instance, though the tiled roof is not required archi- 
 tecturally, but on the contrary hides the outline of the dome, 
 it protects the latter from the weather, and on the whole 
 adds to the picturesqucncss of the building, besides giving it 
 a distinctly Kandyan appearance. This fondness for putting 
 tiled roofs o\"er stone roofed buildings is carried to such a 
 pitch that in one instance, at (ladahideniya, the Kandvans have 
 actually roofed o\er a di'ii^aba — the bell-shaped erection in 
 which llu Buddhists enshrine relics (Plate 466). There is a 
 c1ao;(ilui with a roof over it also at .Aludeniya in Udu \uwara 
 about four miles from Gampola. Here the daf^uba is in a 
 
 * Adjuncts of the Iwvil, such as the stone spout in the wall of the sanctum 
 are usually absent from the dewiile. There is a fine specimen of this spout, 
 however, at the Berendi kovila a Kandyan building (see one of the Plates 
 opposite p. C4 of Mr. Bell's Report on Ktgalle) : but this owes its erection 
 to King Rajah Sinha I., who had abandoned Buddhism and became a convert 
 to Hinduism. 
 
 t It dates from the early part of the eighteenth century. 
 
 X Sir A. Lawrie is incorrect in describing this feature of the Gedige tiiluhe 
 as a " d:igaba " (Gazetteer of the Central Province, p. 72). It is an un- 
 mistakable Hindu temple dome, the counterpart of which may be seen by the 
 hundred in the Jaffna Peninsula. 
 X 
 
 Architecture
 
 346 I 1 1 1'. liOOK ()!•■ CI':\I.ON 
 
 Kandyan chamber at the back of the is^'ilu'trc and this chamber has a 
 
 Architecture ,,,,,,(1,.,, .,,,,1 (hatched roof. 
 
 I he exphination no doubt is that thise rcjots with their 
 o\ (I hani4in<^ eaves are specially suited to a rainy climate like 
 that ol most of the Kandyan country, and serve to protect the 
 walls from becoming sodden. They have therefore instinctively 
 been adajjtcd b\ the Kandyans and in this the native builders 
 show more- sense than I"2uropean architects in Kandy and 
 Colombo who are fond of erecting buildings with elaborate 
 cement or plaster facades which speedily look weather beaten 
 and shabby, and the walls of which get soaked through annually 
 and therefore soon deteriorate. Walls in such climates require 
 all the protection from the weather that they can get, and the 
 Kandyans have learnt this from experience. The people gener- 
 ally live in houses thatched with grass and a roof of this kind 
 always projects a good deal beyond the walls. The same plan 
 has been adopted on very sound principles in the case of more 
 permanent buildings. 
 
 The roofed gateway in the wall of. the sai-red enclosure at 
 Kandy (Plate 468) is a good example of a building where the 
 roof is a part of the original design, and the whole giving a 
 distinctively Kandyan effect. 
 
 Other instances where the roof is a decided improvement 
 to the building are the Maha or \'ishnu de%vdle at Kandy 
 (Plate 467J and the deivdle at Embekke dedicated to the same 
 god (Plate 454). These are in shape like a Hindu temple, 
 and are in fact Hindu temples reduced to a plainer character 
 with the roof o\"er the sanctum taking the place of a dome. 
 The upper stage which is square carries a small balcony 
 or verandah supported, at the Kandy deivdJe, by slender 
 woodtn pillars. It should be noted that this is merely an 
 addition for the sake of effect as there does not appear to be 
 any approach to the balcony which is so shallow as to be of 
 no practical use. The Kataragama de-wdle at Kandy (Plate 
 446) and the deivdJe at Dodanwala in Yatinuwara (Plate 473) 
 have similar small upper storeys square in plan like a lantern 
 or tower over the sanctum. 
 
 The beams supporting the roof ha\e usuallv carved ter- 
 minals of what may be called a conventional pattern (shown 
 in plates 470 and 42S) and the rafters where they project into 
 the verandah are ornamentally notched, also in a conventional 
 pattern (Plate 470). 
 
 A curious specimen of Kandyan roof construction is shown 
 in plate 469, which represents one end of the diggc or entrance 
 hall at Embekke. The woodwork is usuallv of a massive 
 character (Plate 447). 
 
 Of the other two deiodlcs at Kandv the Kataragama ieivdle
 
 GAOALAOENIYA TEMPLE AND DAGABA. 
 
 
 
 1^;;^- ;i.i..,„| 
 
 > 
 
 
 
 
 407 MAHA DEWALE, KANDV. 
 
 NCE TO TEMPLE GROUNDS.
 
 469. ROOF AT EMBEKKE. 
 
 470. PILLARS OF THE AUDIENCE HALL.
 
 THI-: BOOK OF CEVLOX 34O 
 
 IMatc 44()) is Ijuilt in the iisii.il style of a Kaiulxaii clcwi'ilc w liidi '<''nJ>i'n 
 
 is the same as that of a Hiiulu temple with some Kandyaii addi 
 tif3ns and \ariations, c.ff., the tiled roof oxer the shrine, the 
 doorways, etc. It consists of four compartments, the innermost 
 or western one forming- the sanctum with an ima^e of Kata- 
 ra<;-am, the Hindu god of war. The imas^e is contained in a 
 wooden (-abinet or tilniiraJi fitted with a pair of doors which 
 are thrown open when it is exhibited. 0\er it is a brass 
 DKikard ionnui the same can()])\- that is usid for imai^es of 
 l!u(](llia. Belore the imai^c haiii^s a curtain. In the next com- 
 partment is another of the s^ods also under a uuikani tarcuui, 
 and in the third are the howdahs which enshrine the image in 
 the pcralicrn procession, .also a palanfjuin used for the same 
 |)urpose. The fonitli compartment is the hall \\>v the tom-tom 
 beaters. 
 
 ']"he tour compaiiments open into each other 1)\ doors in 
 the Kand\an stvle with curtains before them. 
 
 The pillars of the exterior have recenth' been renewed in 
 a Moratuwa* version of the Kandvan st\le. 
 
 The fourth, the PnUiiii dcwnlc is simpl} a small rect- 
 ant^ular building- standing on th • usual stone platform. It 
 lies north and south; the shrine is at tin- south end;t on the 
 north and east ai'c doors. It also consists of four compart- 
 ments, so that the imai^c faci's east, but the rules do not appear 
 to be rig'id on this point. The same rule a|)plies to the imngcs 
 of Buddha. 
 
 The outward appearance of a Kanchan wihare (IMate 471, 
 Iluduhumpola) reall\- \ery mu(-h resembles that of a dew ale , thi' 
 only difference beins^' that the dewalc is or-duialK longer owiiii;- 
 to its having' more compartments.! But the (/cTcd/c at Dodan- 
 wala might easily be taken for a wilii'irc (Plate 473). It has 
 not this elongated appearance. Both -^'ilu'irc and dcn'i'iJc 
 generallv have the small square lantern or towci' with a high 
 |)eake(l roof and tlnial which lonns the must conspicuous 
 feature externally of the building, the jiillarcd ante-room and 
 shallow \crandah. 
 
 Dodanwala nuiJui Jcied/c is situated about three miles 
 north of the Kandv-Kadugannaw a I'oad at a point seven miles 
 from Kand\ ( I",mbilimigama). ;^ Though called a niiilui ilcwalf 
 
 * Moratiuva in the Western Province is the home of all tlie low country 
 carpenters. 
 
 I In the >iuilia dcu,llc tlie shrine is at the north end. In a Iliniiu 
 temjile the shrine is usually at the west end (as at the Katarap;ama dcii;ile). 
 
 X This is a noteworthy feature at Ivmbekke dcu.ilc, which is in three 
 compartments under two roofs. 
 
 § On the 13th Fehruarv. 1S15. the head(]uarters of the I^ritish army 
 advancinn; to the capture of Kandy rested for the nij^ht at Dodanwaln. 
 
 Architecture
 
 350 rill'; r.ooK ()!• ci-in'i.ox 
 
 Kiiiutyan uliicli uoiild iinpK' iIkiI il was a shrine ol X'islinu, il is really 
 
 Architecture ,1, .(] j, ;, f , .(| (,> |,,n,- (IcKud Sinhalese kini^s or ijrinccs, including- 
 one of the Kajasinhas, ])rohahl}' the second ol that name, the 
 Isini; who eaplnred Robert Knox and who reig-ned from 1634 
 to i()S.|, and to sixt\-se\'en princes who on their death all 
 Ixianie yaksayo or de\ils. It contains no imaije but instead 
 two paintings on wood of two of these kins^s- -which of them 
 seems uncertain. It is a [)lain buildin<^ of the Kandyan style 
 in three compartments, the siiiicturn capped by the usual small 
 s(|uare upper storey with peaked roof. There is a carved door 
 frame to the adjoinini^- kitchen \vhi( h belong-ed orijjinally to 
 the main doorway of the d ewdlc . The chief interest of the 
 ilcivalc lies in the tradition connected with it. When King- 
 Raja Sinha II. was on his way to Balanc to give battle to the 
 Portuguese, the cross stick of the palanquin snapped and he 
 had to alight at Dodanwala. He inquired what the place was 
 and the knpurala or priest told him that it was Nakamuna 
 Kowila, the shrine of a very powerful god, and that it was 
 not well for him to pass it without doing reverence and that 
 on this account the accident had happened to his palanquin. 
 The king thereupon made a vow^ that if he was victorious he 
 would present his crown and apparel to the temple. On his 
 return in triumph he kept his promise, leaving there also 
 some trophies of the fight. In support of this tradition there 
 is the fact that a gold crown was until recently in the premises 
 of the deivdle and is now on loan in the Kandyan Museum ; 
 that there are two embroidered silk jackets said to be the 
 king's still preserved at the deicdie (Plate 473), as well as a 
 hat, a dozen swords and daggers, some of which are of a 
 decidedly European pattern, and including the sword of King 
 Raja Sinha II. himself, with a fine carved palanquin mounted 
 in brass. 
 
 Another curious possession of this temple is a brass crown, 
 described as the crown of Wesamuni, the king of the devils, 
 which is worn by the chief devil dancer on festivals. The 
 lower part of this crown is apparently made of clay and is 
 said to have been originally a mushroom found in a crevice 
 of tile i-ock. It rests 011 a tainiildu'iht , a brass stand for offer- 
 ings, which is also said to date from the time of King Rajah 
 Siidia II. 
 
 In the space surrounding the procession path below the 
 temple, where the people assemble on festival davs, which has 
 an avenue of ironwood trees (Mcsua jerrea), a stone is pointed 
 out under a large sapu or champak tree, as the spot where the 
 king seated himself when his palanquin broke down. The tree 
 must be an old one, as its girth, measured four feet from the 
 base, was found to be ten and a half feet (Plate 474).
 
 472 SWORDS TAKEN FROM THE PORTUGUESE BY KING RAJA SINHA II. 
 
 4'.'o. UODANWALA DUWALt..
 
 474. THE HISTORIC CHAMPAK TREE AT DO 
 
 475. WIHArE at GALMADUWA
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON xz^ 
 
 It is in the simpler unpretendiiiij \illatje temples with their KandNan 
 hipped roofs, wooden pillars and plain but still artistic door- Architecture 
 ways that the spirit of Kandyan architecture is chiefly evinced. 
 When the Kandyan kings were minded to erect more ambitious 
 buildings they drew their inspiration and it seems in some 
 cases their workmen also from Southern India. A conspicuous 
 example of this tendenc}- is to be seen in the unfinished ii'/'/K/re 
 at (ialmaduwa near Kaiuly (Plates 475 and 47^1). The stor\- 
 is that it was built by King Kirti vSri, but that having heard 
 during the course of its construction that ther^- was a cave 
 at Degaldoruwa in the neighbourhood he abandoned the 
 scheme of ha\ing a tcmplr lure and decided to have it at 
 the latter place. If this is true, it shows what importance 
 was attached 1)\' devotees to the possibilitv of utilising a con- 
 venient ca\e in the establishment of a shrine of Buddha or 
 what a creature of caprice a Kandyan king — like other kings, 
 may be. There is this to be said in support of the legend, that 
 Kirti Sri was a devotee and that he was at the same time a 
 Kandyan king. 
 
 One can scarccK' credit it, however, for the work at Oalma- 
 duwa is far superior and conceived on a more costly scale 
 than that at Degaldoruwa, and the whole of the stone work 
 and masonry at Cialmaduwa was finished before the temple 
 was abandoned. All that remained was the placing in position 
 of the statue of Buddha and the decoration. The building is 
 still in very good preservation, notwithstanding that it has 
 been abandoned for 150 years or more, which speaks well for 
 the solidity of the workmanship, considering that it has had 
 to contend against a tropical climate and tropical vegetation. 
 
 Sir .\rchibald Lawrie describes it as " a \erv curious build- 
 ing in the style of a Tamil Hindu ttmple with a high s;opiir(i.'"* 
 There is certainly a strong resemblance in the tower to the 
 towers which are a characteristic feature of Hindu temples in 
 Southern India, but the lower part of the structure is in ac- 
 cordance with the usual Kandyan style, the basement wall 
 having deep and hva\y mouldings like the wall round the 
 sacred enclosure at Kandy and the walls of Lankatilake and 
 Ciadal;ideni\ a. 
 
 riic plan ol the building is a sc|uare room built of stone 
 surmounted b\ a tower of biick and stone masonrv in seven 
 diniiiiishing staj^cs, the sexenlii .stage being pyramidal and 
 ending in a linial. Each of these stages except the last has 
 .in ornament like a pineapple or a ih'ii^aha at each of the four 
 
 * Gazetteer, \'ol. F.. p. 25S. The tower is not a /:(^/'«).f. A ^ti^/h/ijw means 
 in Southern India and Ceylon the tower which snrmounts the outer gateway 
 of the temple enclosure, whereas this tower crowns the centre of the edifice. 
 It forms the roof of the temole itself.
 
 .:;54 III!'; I'.OOK ()\' L\:Y\A)S 
 
 Kaiuiyan lonicrs. 'I'liis ccntr;!! hiiildiiii;- is surrounded l)y ;i rnassi\c \\;dl 
 
 Architecture ^^,j,], .^^^ ovcrhaiii; iiij^'- and dcepl\- moulded cornice, the ouler 
 wall is ijicrced (Mi three sides by lixc windows; on the fourth, 
 which is on tlie west side, the phice of the central window is 
 taken by a dcjorway of slightly larger dimensions. The dis- 
 tance between the central building and the outer wall according 
 to rough measurement is 14 feet. The former is 29 feet, the 
 latter 66 feet square. There are but two doorways one into 
 the enclosure and one opposite it into the sanctum (Plate 476). 
 The\- are each (> feet wicle, the windows 4^2 feet. The thick- 
 ness of the outer wall is t,^^ feet, not including the mouldings, 
 of the wall of the sanctum, 3 feet. The most interesting feature 
 about this building is the shape of the arches of the doorways 
 and windows. They are semicircular cusped arches with a key- 
 stone. The door at the entrance to the enclosure has six of 
 these cusps; the windows two only. The door of the ivihdre 
 has also only two cusps but the apex is formed of an ogee arch 
 (Plate 476). There is a massive stone border or framing round 
 the windows on the exterior and this framing includes the arch, 
 th;- outer line of which is simply semicircular. 
 
 The sanctum is furnished In the interior with the asane, 
 the pedestal or throne for the image, but is otherwise quite 
 bare. The brick domed roof is unplastered. 
 
 Immediately at the back of the outer wall of the building, 
 erected on the eastern side and within six feet of it, is a small 
 ■aulu'ire built by the villagers some sixty years ago in lieu of the 
 imposing structure which was destined never to be completed. 
 They erected this building because they were unable to raise 
 sufficient money to complete the latter. The mean work of the 
 more modern plastered building (though what there is of it is 
 Kandyan so far as it goes) consorts ill with the massive stone 
 and brick masonry of the original but unfinished temple. 
 
 The temple is situated within twenty-five minutes' walk 
 by the road which runs through Galmaduwa Estate, from the 
 ferry at Ilukmodara, three miles from Kandy on the Han- 
 guranketa road. There is a short cut turning off to the left 
 at the sign board marked " To Galmaduwa Bungalow " which 
 makes it considerably less. 
 
 The contrast between the Galmaduwa iviharc and such a 
 building as the Temple of the Tooth or the Audience Hall, 
 or one of the smaller ^i'iliarcs built by Kirti Sri, is remarkable. 
 Their architecture and style would appear to have nothing in 
 common — they arc at opposite poles. The one in fact is Hindu, 
 the other Kandyan. The (lalmaduwa li'lharc probablv enjovs 
 the unique distinction of being the most Hindu-looking Bud- 
 dhist temple in existence. 
 
 Aludeniya is an interesting specimen of a small Kandvan
 
 476 WIHARE AT GALMADUWA.
 
 477. THE MALWATTE POYAGE. 
 
 478 INTERIOR OF THE MALWATTE POYAGE.
 
 THK BOOK OF CKVLOX 357 
 
 li'ilu'trc. It is said to date from the time of Bhuwanaka Kandvan 
 
 Bahu 1\'., who reigned at Ciampola a.u. 1347-13^1. It consists Architecture 
 
 of a square room for the image with a hall in front of it and 
 
 a room for the dt'igabu at the back. The hall is continued at 
 
 the sides as a shallow verandah. The central room has a small 
 
 square upper storey approached by an external staircase with 
 
 a door in front. This room at one time also contained an 
 
 image of Buddha, and still contains a number of small Buddha 
 
 images standing on a small table. The carved wooden door 
 
 frame of this upper room is said to have been brought here 
 
 from the king's palace at Gampola, and 1 think it is quite 
 
 possible that, being under cover, it has lasted for five and a 
 
 half centuries. Like most of the more ancient doorways it is 
 
 square headed and the car\ing shows a figure of Laksmi at 
 
 the top with an elephant and three dancers on each side. At 
 
 the foot on each side are a male and female figure \ery well 
 
 executed. There is a border of dancers and a lloral pattern 
 
 round the frame. 
 
 This doorway is very similar in its dancing girl pattern 
 to the stone doorway at Ambulugala 7cihare shown in the plate 
 opposite p. 42 of Mr. Bell's Kegalle Report. The latter door- 
 way probably dates from the fourteenth century a.u. The 
 .Mudeniya door frame may also be compared with the wooden 
 door frame at Dippitiya ivilidre in Four Korles {loc. cit. p. 52) 
 which it resembles in having three bands of carving round the 
 inner framing which render the doorposts and lintel extra wide. 
 The outer band of carving in each is of much the same pattern 
 " a single trail throwing off alternately a Hower and a leaf 
 which curls back over the stem." The date of the Dippitiya 
 temple is not given. 
 
 These square headed doorways with carved borders are 
 characteristic of the older Kandyan architecture. The style 
 of decoration and the door frames themselves are well described 
 by Mr. Bell : " Decorative carving whether in stone, or more 
 commonly in wood rarely breaks through the conventionalism 
 of a few recognised, almost stereotyped designs. The main 
 ornament, repeated in endless variety to the will of the carver, 
 is the continuous scrc^ll of foliage. A comparative study of 
 the varying forms this most effective ornamentation (particu- 
 larly of vertical surfaces) common to (ireek, Roman and later 
 styles, assumes on the Kandyan temple door frames, would be 
 in itself interesting. Single or double, large or small, plain 
 or complex, its convolutions, throwing off sometimes leaves 
 more or less flowered, sometimes a repeated llower or even 
 enclosing partially or throughout ligures of dancers^the one 
 leading idea is steadily kept in \ iiw . and it would be diOicult, 
 if not impossible, to substitute other ornamentation more
 
 358 'II II". r.ooK oi' (•|-;\i.()\ 
 
 Kandyan clco.'int, rci'iMcd .iiicl better suited U) its purpose." A very fine 
 
 Architecture ^p,.,;,,,,.,, ,,| d,,^ i^i„^i (,|- \)ard<.T, louiid recently at a temple 
 near Bentota in the Stnitlicrn I'roxince, is shown in plate 241. 
 
 Mr. Hell continues: "The front laces ol door frames also 
 are car\cd. Ihe line of ornament invariably runs upwards 
 from figured base panels on the side posts, and meets at the 
 centre of the lintel in some crownings desi£,m as \aried as the 
 panels below, and equally affording the woodcutter opportunity 
 of displaying individual taste or strange conceit — dewa nipas* 
 iKiri /(//((, t iiiiikard,! faces, etc. The panels at the bottom of 
 the joints are filled with figures of lions, elephants, dancers 
 and janitors, and, as with the tlowing scroll, are hardlv found 
 aliki' in an\- two t(.nii)Ies. The whole ol this carving is in 
 " sunk relief," no part rising above the plane of the margin, 
 but the edges of the design are rounded off, and leaves and 
 Howcrs fiuted so as to allow of full chiaroscuro play."S 
 
 The stone door frames of the two entrances to the Temple 
 of the 'I'ooth are good specimens of the kind of work described 
 in the paragraph just quoted. They " furnish standing 
 examples of the most delicate scroll work within beading 
 and water-leaf bevelling cut in stone," in this instance only 
 two centuries back, but of almost the same design as the door 
 frames four centuries old which Mr. Bell is describing. 
 
 Plates 479 and 480 show two wooden doorways in the 
 pansala at Asgiriya, the exterior of which building is depicted 
 in plate 495. These date from the time of King Kirti Sri. 
 They are called respectively hansa pitliiicc, and Sitiha putnice 
 iiJui^'assa or goose-chair and lion-chair door frame, from 
 their exhibiting abo\e the lintel designs based upon those 
 animals. 
 
 The platforms with moulded stone walls which form a base- 
 ment for the buildings have been alluded to. The mouldings 
 follow more or less a stock pattern. The best example of this 
 moulding is seen in the wall which surrounds the temple en- 
 closure in Kandy (Plate 481). Similar walls may be seen in 
 the interior of the Old Palace at Kandy and at the Lankatilake, 
 Gadaladeniya and (ialmaduwa temples, and they are also built 
 round bo-trees. Patterns of very much the same style of 
 moulding are found in the legs of Kandyan tables and chairs, 
 and a similar pattern forms the first piece of carving on a 
 Kandyan pillar, i.e. the nearest to the base, and the piece 
 that the carpenter or stone cutter starts with, whit-h is known 
 
 * Figures of gods. 
 
 t Literally, " woman-creeper." Leafy ornament, spreading downwards 
 from the trunk of a woman's body. 
 X A mythical monster. 
 § Kogalle Report, p. 20.
 
 479. DOOR IN ASGIRIYA PANSALA. 
 
 DOOR IN ASCII 
 
 lEMPLt CHOUNDS ENCL
 
 ^ «?■ -f n- ■ 
 
 482. EAVES TILE. 
 
 ™',VV 
 
 / 
 
 483. EAVES TILE.
 
 Tin-: BOOK OF ci:\'L()x 361 
 
 as usa)uikachi Ironi its resemblance to the pedestal or throne Kund>an 
 which supports an image of Buddha. Architecture 
 
 Sometimes the line of roof along the eaves is decorated with 
 pendent-tiles on which are stamped figures of lions or other 
 patterns, and these tiles supply the place of weather-boarding 
 (Plates 482 and 4<S3). 
 
 There are unlOrtunatcly not many of these tiles left, but 
 specimens of different shapes and patterns are to be seen at 
 the Maligawa, at Lankatilake and at Gangarama i^'ilu'ircs. 
 At the Temple of the Tooth those that remained have of 
 late years been removed from the roof of the main building 
 and set up on a part of the quadrangle which surrounds it, 
 a building hardly worthy of them. It was easier to replace 
 the whole line of them with a weather-boarding made of tin 
 cut into a pattern with nothing distinctively Kandyan about it 
 than to get new oius moulded of the same pattern as the old 
 to fill the gaps in the line of tiles, and as usual in these days 
 the easier and cheaper course was taken. It should be noted 
 by way of contrast, as evidence of the artistic feeling of the 
 workmen who made the tiles, that they were not content to 
 lea\e the inner side plain as they might well have done, for the 
 inner side is not conspicuous, or likely to catch the eye of the 
 casual observer, and while the outer side presents the figure 
 of a lion, the inner has that of the sacred goose moulded on it. 
 
 There are tiles of the same pattern at Gangarama ; in this 
 case happily still undisturbed and in their original position. 
 The same pattern too is to be seen in the borders of some of 
 the rectangular compartments into which the front wall of 
 the Old Palace is divided and in the border which runs round 
 the door arches on the inner side. This decoration consists of 
 tiles set into the wall. Both sides of the tile are utilised to 
 form these borders, viz. that with the lion and that with the 
 goose stamped on it. 
 
 .\t Lankatilake the tiles are of the shape of a bo leaf, long 
 and pointed, but here too is to be seen the conventional lion 
 of the Sinhalese. 
 
 The Lankatilake tiles have been successfullv copied in a 
 modern structure at Kandy, the bandstand on the I^splanade 
 which is in the national style and is provided with eaves tiles. 
 Tiles are used in a similar way in the Temple of the Tooth — 
 let into the wall so as to form a border round the entrance 
 doorway. They arc of the same lion pattern as those used in 
 the Old Palace: in fact they must have been made from the 
 same mould. 
 
 The images of Huddha and of the gods are alwavs coloured 
 and consideraljle use is made of painting for the decoration of 
 the walls, pillars, roof and ceiling which in rock temples usually
 
 362 'II II-; r,()()K OF CKYLOX 
 
 Kandyiin consists of llic solid rock ilscll. (IMatfs 4<S5 and 4'SO, which 
 
 Architecture sliow llic iulciior ol a Icmjjlc at Ilataraliyadda, haU'-\va\- be- 
 tween Galagadera and Rambukkan, plate 487 the interior ot a 
 temple near Bentota, and plate 4(S9 Deg^aldoruwa.) The ceiling 
 is painted in tloral geometrical patterns in which the lotus 
 llower repeated like the flcitr cic lis in the mediaeval decoration 
 ot I'^uropc; is a prominent ieature. The rock ceiling at W'ela- 
 gama is iinel\- painted, as are the walls of Degaldoruwa. In the 
 small rock temple at Gonawatta, five and a half miles from 
 Kandy on the Hanguranketa road, the painting of the rock 
 ceiling riminds one of an old-fashioned patchwork bed quilt 
 of many colours. The walls of the temples of Buddha have 
 figures of Buddha or of his disciples painted all over them, 
 sometimes as at (iangarama in a regular pattern of squares 
 alternately of light and dark colours, or often with scenes 
 from the story of his life or from the Jataka stories. The 
 fa\ourite Jatakas appear to be the Telapatta (No. 96), the 
 Kusa (No. 534), and the Wessantara (No. 550), the last of all. 
 At Huduhumpola is a conventional representation of Adam's 
 Peak with the carved footprint on the top, where perspective 
 is thrown to the winds and the peak appears as a moderate 
 sized rock with a ladder cut in the side of it and surmounted 
 by a pavilion half the size of itself. The presence of the Sri 
 pada is rendered unmistakable to the spectator by standing it 
 up on end so that he can see the whole of it without difficulty. 
 The hare in the moon is another favourite symbol, as are 
 clai:;ahas and bo trees. Sometimes, as at the Pallemale adjoin- 
 ing the Octagon at Kandy, we have a portrait of the royal 
 founder of the temples ; at Welagama there is a portrait of 
 the Kandyan chief who was one of the principal benefactors 
 of the temple. In some cases as at the Tooth temple, at 
 Degaldoruwa and at the poyage of the Malwatta monastery at 
 Kandy the capitals and the upper portions of the pillars are 
 painted (Plates 452, 4S9 and 478). 
 
 The idea seems to be that there cannot be too manv figures 
 or too many of the three attitudes of Buddha in the sanctum. 
 Where the principal image is a standing or sedent figure it is 
 often repeated on a diminishing scale on each side. At Wela- 
 gama rock temple (Plate 491), in one of the three chambers 
 there are seven sedent Buddhas with five standing Buddhas in 
 between, in another a large recumbent Buddha and in the third 
 a sedent Buddha and a ih'ii::aba. At Degaldoruwa the large 
 recumbent Buddha, cut out of the solid rock, is flanked to 
 right and left, at each of the end walls, by a much smaller 
 sedent Buddha, and these figures are again flanked by standing 
 Buddhas. At Gangarama, however, the founder was content 
 with one large standing figure twentv-sevcn feet high, and at
 
 435. TEMPLE AT HATARALIYADDA. 
 
 TEMPLE AT 
 
 fef-^^^F 
 
 y-^^.-n 
 
 'A ^M<. 
 
 
 j)io. Doon AT wti*o*rj
 
 489. ROCK TEMPLE AT DEGALDORUWA
 
 Tin-: BOOK OI" CHVLOX 365 
 
 Huduhumpola with one sedent fig^ure. The figures at Lanka- Kand>an 
 tilakc and Gadaladeniya are sedent. The image of Huddha is Architecture 
 frequently flanked by stone figures of gods, kings, chiefs, 
 disciples, etc., placed at right angles to the central figure of 
 Buddha, and regarding it in an attitude of adoration. Each of 
 these figures has the right arm extended, the palm open and 
 turned downwards ; the left arm close to the side also with 
 the palm open but turned upwards. The efl'ect is deiidedly 
 quaint. An example is to be seen in the interior of the old 
 ii.'ili(tre at .\sgiriya (Plate 49(5), and at W'elagama the nnikurn 
 ionina arch is surmounted by eight figures of gods in this 
 attitude. 
 
 The rock temple at Degaldoruwa, three-fourths of a mile 
 from the Lewella ferry on the Dumbara side, dates from the 
 time of King Kirti Sri, and is noteworthy chiefly for its painted 
 walls (Plate 489). In front of the cave chamber is a vestibule 
 supported on twelve monolithic^ pillars of a plain octagonal 
 pattern* widening out into a bulb just below a kind of cushion 
 capital which reminds one of Xorman architecture. The doors 
 help to carrv on the resemblance, their semicircular arches 
 springing from flat, square and shallow impost mouldings as 
 at the Maligawa and some of the Kandy temples. An outer 
 \estibule in front of this one has had a modern facade of 
 no particular style surmounted by a belfry, also nondescript, 
 tacked on to it within the last twenty or thirty years. 
 
 The small poycis^e or assembly hall adjoining has a good 
 carved wooden doorwav in the centre of one of the sides 
 (Plate 499). 
 
 The most consi)icu()us building in Kand\" and perhaps the 
 most striking is the Patirippuwa or Octagon attached to the 
 Temple of the Tooth and the royal palace. This with the lake 
 which it overlooks are the most picturesque features in the 
 town and for them we are indebted to the last king, who though 
 a tyrant seems to have had some artistic taste. But even in 
 the construction of these works he was tyrannical, and in 
 compelling his people to labour at them without jtay his un- 
 popularity was considerably increased. 
 
 Next to the lake the Octagon is the chief object in most 
 pictures of Kandy and its appearance must be familiar to many 
 traxcllcrs (Plate 4C)o). So nniih is it a part of Kaiul\- that when 
 
 * The general resemblance in shape of these pillars to the two pillars o{ 
 Ganegorla t^ilulre, which are depicted on the second jijate opposite p. 34 of Mr 
 Bell's Kr^alle lup>>yt, is noticeable. Mr. Hell is of opinion that this form of 
 pillar is Dravidian : " It is to be found at many of the principal temples of 
 Southern India, Cunjivaram, Vellore, Vijanagara. etc., with so much soften- 
 ing of ornamentations as might be expected from the diflerence of religious 
 cult."
 
 366 III I-: BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Kiimivan ''i'' Mniiiii]);il ("ouiK il w.'is in search of a coat-ol-arms, they 
 
 Architecture a(l()i)U(l it as the principal charj,^e. The shape is ^^racel'ul, but 
 it owes a t;<)ocl deal of its effectiveness to its site. I'he walls are 
 very thick and the lower chamber has round arched doorways 
 with nothint,r distinctively Kandyan about them — they are real 
 arches ; and in this instance as at (jalmaduwa the Kandyan 
 builders have at least shown that they understood the principle 
 of the arch. The tradition is that while the king- watched the 
 temple festivals from the balcony of the rooms above, his three 
 principal waives occupied for the same purpose the three front 
 recesses in the lower room.* 
 
 The palace was a long low building and part of it still 
 remains, now occupied by the Government Agent of the Pro- 
 vince who at present happens to be the writer of this description 
 (Plates 433 and 492). It has little of the decorative about it. 
 The chief room is entered by a deeply recessed doorway in the 
 thickness of the wall, and the cusped arch of this doorway 
 might from its appearance be mediaeval European or Saracenic 
 (Plates 484 and 493). The walls of the room are decorated in 
 basso-rilievo with figures of Kandvan women holding fans, and 
 of the sacred goose and lion. The outer wall has figures of 
 the sun and moon on each side of the doorway — the emblems 
 of royalty — with borders of tiles let into the wall, each contain- 
 ing a lion figure (Plate 484). 
 
 There is nothing left of the king's palace at Hanguranketa, 
 which was erected by this king's successor Wiyaya Raja Sinha 
 ( 1 739-1747), and was destroyed in the Kandyan rebellion of 
 1817, but some fine moonstones, stone pillars of the usual 
 tvpe with their inverted lotus capitals, and some other carved 
 
 * Sir Emerson Tennent states (Vol. II., Fourth Editioi:, p. 195), and the 
 statement is repeated in Murray's Handbook (1905), that "the palace was 
 built by Wimala Darma about the year 1600." It is difficult to say whether 
 any portion of the existing building dates from that period. It is noteworthy 
 that the Government Gazette of 24th February, 1S03, announces that the 
 king had fled from Kandy " after having set fire to the palace and several 
 temples," and that by the exertions of the British soldiers the fire had been 
 extinguished, but not until the building was nearly consumed. A drawing 
 made by Lieutenant Lyttelton, 73rd Regiment, in 1S15-1S17 shows the front 
 of the palace very much as it is now. The existing portion was apparently 
 the Queen's palace. The next statement which is given by Tennent on the 
 authority of Spitbergen, the Dutch admiral, who visited Kandy in 1602. and 
 which is also repeated by Murray, viz., that " the king employed the services 
 of his Portuguese prisoners in its erection" — though it may be founded on 
 fact, derives no corroboration from the argument adduced by Tennent (and 
 also reproduced by Murray) in support of it, viz., that this circumstance 
 ■' may serve to account for the European character which pervades the 
 architecture of some portions still remaining, such as the (Octagon) tower 
 adjoining the Maligawa temple"; for the Octagon was not built until the 
 reign of the last king — probably between 1S04 or 1S05 and 1S12, at which 
 time the lake also was constructed.
 
 THE PATH 
 
 nOCK TEP.rPLf. WELAGAU
 
 49i STONE CA
 
 THK HOOK OF Ci:\I.O\ 369 
 
 stones, including a watcr-spout with a tish-shapcd head. The Kandyan 
 stone platform of the Maha dcwdle close by has along it Architecture 
 a frieze of warriors crossing swords, each with two men 
 next him, with the knees bent as in " physical drill with 
 arms. " 
 
 Of the palace at Kundasale founded by King Xarendra 
 Sinha (a.d. 1706- 1739), nothing is left save a mound marking 
 where the patirippiiiva stood, a few plain stone pillars, a stone 
 with an elephant carved in it lying on the bank of the river 
 near by, and some heaps of stones and broken tiles. Two 
 stones also with elephants carved on them now placed at the 
 entrance to the Temple of the Tooth at Kandy (Plate 421 J, and 
 two more carved with figures of \ases," now in the Kandy 
 Museum, also came from the Kundasilk- palace. "The build- 
 ings were burnt by the detachment of troops under the com- 
 mand of Captain Johnson in 1804. "f No doubt these stones 
 were brought in by the last king for the adornment of the 
 temple and palace. 
 
 Good examples of pansalas or dwellings for the monks are 
 to be seen at the Malwatta and Asgiriya monasteries at Kandy, 
 though the process of modernisation is gradually depriving 
 them of their older and more artistic features. Plate 495 shows 
 a small patisala at Asgiriya which has so far suffered little in 
 this wav. Just outside the door is a curious square stone said 
 to be very old, hollowed out to serve as a foot bath for the 
 monks entering the pmisdia. 
 
 The pansalas at Huduhumpola and Kundasale are interest- 
 ing specimens of the architecture and arrangement of a small 
 Kandyan monastery. The former was founded by King Kirti 
 Sri about 1777 with accommodation for twelve monks. The 
 latter also owes its foundation to the same pious king. 
 
 The Huduhumpola pansala is built in the shape of a quad- 
 rangle opening into a spacious verandah which occupies the 
 whole of this side of the building. The roof is supported by 
 wooden pillars of the style already described. The usual small 
 verandah surrounds the other three sides of the quadrangle. 
 Opening into it are the doors of the monks' cells, each of the 
 usual Kandyan pattern, which is that of the main door also, 
 only on a smaller scale, each door about eighteen inches wide. 
 Each cell has its own kitchen attached, and there is also a 
 larger kitchen for general use. There is a w indow of coupled 
 lights with carved tops in the room facing the main entrance. 
 The whole of the centre of the quadrangle is oc^cupied by a 
 preaching hall suj^ported on carved wooden pillars more slender 
 than those in the vestibule. 
 
 * Plate 494 shows one of these stones. 
 + Forbes. Vol. II., p. 117.
 
 370 I III': r.ooK ()!•" cl':^■LO^' 
 
 Kandyan At As^iiix;! in Kaiulv there are two wiln'ircs known as the 
 
 Architecture ()|,| ;||,,| \,.\v wilu't res , but ihc former is ncjl very old, having 
 been built by I'ilima 'I'alawwa, Disawa of the I'Our Korlcs, in 
 A.I). \ji)h (I'late 497). It contains a sedent ligure of Buddha 
 under a iiniluira torana arch, and the interior is very similar 
 to that of the Gcdige wihdre (Plate 496). The figures on each 
 side of Buddha are the gods Nata on his right and Saman on 
 his left. 
 
 One of the possessions of this -nHiu'irc is a ch'i^ahii cut out 
 of Cjuartz, the top of which takes off. The ih'niiihd is about a 
 foot in height. 
 
 The New ^vihdre (Plate 455) was built in 1801 by Pilima 
 Talawwa, the First Adigar, son of the Pilima Talawwa just 
 mentioned. It has a recumbent figure of Buddha hewn out of 
 the rock thirty-six feet long. The figure of Buddha is painted 
 all over the walls. 
 
 The door used, according to tradition, to have an ivory 
 border and was studded with jewels, which have been looted. 
 The rock at the back, as at Gangardma, is incorporated with 
 the back wall of the wihdre and it bears an inscription cut by 
 order of the last king.* 
 
 In one of the poya geival at Asgiriya Is kept a chair, a 
 heavy piece of work presented to the monastery by King Kirti 
 Sri. This chair is shown in plate 497. The semicircular back 
 Is Inlaid with ivory. The monastery also possesses a satlnwood 
 table and an armchair said to date from the same period, both 
 of them of a pattern unmistakably Dutch. 
 
 Next to the Gedlge ivihdre a space is marked off by eight 
 carved stones placed so as to form an oblong thus :• — i'~j 
 
 See plate 498, where similar stones are shown. 
 
 This denotes the site of a poyage or hall for the ordination 
 of Buddhist monks. It is believed that neither gods nor devils 
 can enter within this boundary {nimazoa). 
 
 At the Asgiriya monastery there are two of these ordination 
 halls surrounded by the eight boundary stones (Plate 498 shows 
 one of these), and at the Malwatta establishment the poyage is 
 the principal building, but the exterior has been modernised 
 and spoilt (Plate 477). 
 
 The Gangarama temple near Kandy Is a plain rectangular 
 structure with a ^•crandah on all four sides, built on to a 
 rock at the back, out of which is cut a large standing figure 
 of Buddha twenty-seven feet in height. Like most of the 
 Kandy temples it dates from the time of King Kirti Sri. The 
 most noteworthy feature about it Is the line of eaves tiles 
 
 * See Lawrie's Gazetteer, \o\. I., p. 74, for an interesting description of 
 the ceremonies performed at the opening of this temple.
 
 496. BUDDHIST ALTAR AT ASGIRIYA 
 
 497 THE OLD WIHARE AT ASGIRIYA
 
 499. DOOR AT DEOALOORUWA 
 
 500. DOOR AT THE QUEENS PALACE.
 
 THK HOOK Ol-' Ci:\LOX 373 
 
 round the roof, rectan<;ular in shape and of a lion pattern Kandyan 
 exactly similar to the tiles built into the front wall of the Old Architecture 
 Palace. 
 
 A Kandyan house is usually built on the plan of a quad- 
 rangle, or three or perhaps only two sides of a quadrangle, 
 with ver}- shallow verandahs under the deep thatched eaves.* 
 
 I ha\e referred to the doorways as being distinctively 
 Kandyan. The ordinary and simplest type of door is shown 
 in plate 500. It is of a shape that I have not seen elsewhere 
 and is very effective. Ihis doorway, with its small arch cut 
 in the lintel, is usually of wood, but it is also found carried 
 out in stone, so that here also a wooden architecture is ulti- 
 mately developed in stone. It embodies in fact, " the arch 
 without the principle of the arch," a peculiarity about Kandvan 
 building noticed by Dr. Davy, though he adds that " in some 
 modern buildings the arch regularly constructed with a kev- 
 stone may be found."! 
 
 More elaborate developments of the original patterns are 
 sometimes adopted for the lintel (Plates 479 and 480), especiallv 
 when it is of stone. One consists of a double arch (Plate 501). 
 A common form for both doorways and canopies in temples 
 both of Buddha and the gods is the makara toraua arch, a 
 monstrous lion's head minus the lower jaw at the apex sup- 
 ported i)y a mythical beast compounded out of several animals, t 
 This pattern is more grotesque than artistic and seems to be 
 of Hindu origin. 
 
 A Kandyan door is single (Plate 503) or double (IMate ^04, 
 also plates 499 and 500). The constituent parts of a door-frame 
 
 * The builder was hampered by rules which were framed apparently by 
 astrologers. If a Kandyan house was to comprise two rooms, they should be 
 of 4 and 5 carpenters' cubits in lenf::;th and the breadth should be neither 3 
 nor 4 carpenters' cubits but between the two. .\ carpenters" cubit was double 
 ihe ordinary cubit or about equal to a yard. 
 
 The doors should be small, and the house should face either towards the 
 north or towards the east — not exactly north nor exactly east, but a point or 
 two off. 
 
 t Page 255. Round arched doors, but without a visible keystone, are to 
 be found in the Octagon and the Old Palace at Kandy and in some of the 
 temples at Galmaduwa the windows and doorways ha\e properly constructed 
 arches with keystones. 
 
 :|; There are Sanskrit rules for the composition of this beast : — 
 ICIephant's trunk. 
 Lion's feet, 
 
 Hoar's ear, 
 
 Fish's body. 
 
 Crocodile's teeth, 
 Monkey's eye. 
 For an account of the wukara tciiiiui arch see Bell's Kt'galle iufoit, p. 21, 
 and for representations of it, the plate opposite p. 43 in the same work ; the 
 cover of the St. Louis World's Fair Ceylon Handbook and plate 496.
 
 374 '•""'■' I>0()K OI" (•|:\'LO\ 
 
 Kandyan with a sint^lc (loor arc reckoned by Kandyan builders to be 
 Arciiiucturc pim. j,, nuinhcr. There is a horizontal cross piece at the top 
 ol the door Inside and another outside. Under the latter is 
 an ornamental lintel, which is nearly always of the pattern 
 show n in plate 500, though sometimes this is further elaborated 
 (IMati- 5()j). A very plain rectangular doorway at W'elagama 
 is rceUcincd from the commonplace by the carved piece of wood 
 abo\e the lintel (i'late 4HSJ. There are two door-posts and 
 an inner and outer threshold, the latter of which is always 
 more or less ornamented with carving. Inside there are an 
 upright post for the bolt to fit into and the bolt itself. The 
 door completes the number. The chief peculiarity of a Kandyan 
 door is that it has no hinges.* Instead, the inner edge of the 
 door which is made of a thick plank is rounded off and projects 
 at the top and bottom in short circular ends which fit into 
 sockets, and on this axis the door swings. It is fastened 
 inside by a huge bolt of wood fitting into a wooden frame. 
 These bolts are sometimes very artistic (Plate 503). 
 
 Where the door is in two pieces the bolt and its frame are 
 necessarily rather different in shape (Plate 504). 
 
 The Kandyan doorway always has a threshold of wood or 
 stone and the front of this is usually carved in a conventional 
 pattern, horizontal mouldings with a lotus in the centre (Plates 
 500, 485 and 443). In front of a doorway of any importance 
 there w-as usually a semicircular carved stone know^n as a 
 moonstone. This is a survival from the ancient architecture 
 of the Island. t There are fine specimens at Anuradhapura, 
 but some good ones much more modern in the neighbourhood 
 of Kandyi: (Plate 489, Degaldoruwa). 
 
 The doors have outside, massive brass, copper, or iron 
 handles set in circular plates of the same metals, as well as, 
 in the case of temple doors which are kept locked on the out- 
 side, metal bolts. The work of these fittings is often very 
 artistic as well as distinctively Kandyan (Plates 499 and 500). 
 There are fine specimens of door handles at the Xew liuhdrc 
 at Asgiriya. 
 
 With regard to windows, these are usually very small but 
 they are of two distinct types. One type was that of the 
 ordinary Kandyan door on a diminutive scale. These windows 
 are of exactly the same pattern as the doors, down even to 
 the ornamental threshold and the handle and bolt. A good 
 
 * The Kandyan " dreams and shapes 
 
 His dream into a door-post, just escapes 
 The mystery of hinges." — Sordcllo, Book ?■. 
 t E.g , at Hanguranketa, belonging to the king's palace that once existed 
 there; at Degaldoruwa, Gangarama, the Maligawa at Kandy, etc. 
 
 J The moonstone is peculiar to Ceylon, see Bell's Kegalle A'lfcrt, p. 19.
 
 502. DOOR A I 
 
 503. OOOR SHOWING THE BOLT
 
 ( ritoto by Mrs. Ciw 
 
 505. WINDOW FRAME FROM NALANDE. 
 
 506. WINDOW AT MALWATTE. 
 
 507. WINDOW FRAME ; INSIDE. 
 
 508. WINDOW AT LANKATILAKE. 
 
 509. WINDOW FRAME ; OUTSIDE.
 
 THI-: BOOK OI-' C"H\I.OX 
 
 377 
 
 example of a window of this kiiul is shown in phitcs :;o7 and Kandyan 
 
 f-nn * ' Architecture 
 
 Sometimes windows are of two liijhts, as in plate 506. 
 In these windows the fortuitous resemblance to the medianal 
 windows and mediaeval architertur • is extraordinary. In 
 plate 505, which is of a window from Xalande, thirty miles 
 north of Kandy, we have the tracery of decorated or per- 
 pc'ndicular (lothic, with a double ogee arch, independently 
 developed. The window shown in plate 506, which is at the 
 Malwatta temple at Kandy, mig^ht pass for Xorman. 
 
 The other type is quite different. Windows of this tvpe 
 are larger, sometimes very long; but without corresponding^ 
 height (Plate 508). They are filled w ith turned wooden bars 
 lacquered in red and yellow — another Kandvan pattern 
 which is seen also in the legs of tables and chairs, beds and 
 palanquins. In a window of the pansuJa of the Kundasalc 
 iviharc near Kand\\ wlilch has seven of these bars, the two 
 outer bars are not in the same plane with the other five, thcv 
 are further recessed. .Apparently this was done simplv for 
 artistic effect, to give more variety and pla\ of light and 
 shade. 
 
 * This example is unic)ue, as the wooden bolt frame is circular and the 
 window opens on iron hin<^es of Kandvan make. The window is not /// situ. 
 It has been removed. The wall, which accounts for the whole of the frame- 
 work, being visible. Windows of this type are shown in situ in plate 425. 
 
 ^^^PH
 
 37 
 
 78 
 
 1 1 II-; r.ooK oi- (■i-:\i.C)X 
 
 Localities 
 of Kandyan 
 Temples 
 
 Malwatte 
 
 Asgiiia 
 
 Gangaiiima 
 
 Degaldoiuwa 
 
 Galmaduica 
 
 Laiikalilaki' 
 
 At Ka(lii!;;mn:iu:i on pamcs 242 and 245 we indicated the 
 localities ol sonii' oi the most inter. ■stini,'- Kandyan temples 
 and the routes by w lii( h they miii^ht be icai lied. It may now 
 })(■ useful to i)oint out the position and distan(-e from Kandy 
 ol tiiese and other jjlaces that have been referred to in the 
 forei^oinj,'- description of Kandyan architecture. 
 
 Malwatte Temple and Monastery is situated upon a slightly 
 ele\ated site on the borders of the lake, about a third of a 
 mile from the Ouccn's Hotel. Its c^hief building is its poya-f^e 
 or confession and ordination hall illustrated by plates 477 and 
 478. The interior pillars are monoliths twenty-fi\e feet high. 
 This institution has jurisdiction over the monasteries of the 
 southern half of the Island. 
 
 The Asgiria Temple is reached by crossing the Matale 
 railway at the north end of Brownrigg Street, where a path 
 about half a mile long, prettily wooded on either side, leads 
 to the various buildings that we have illustrated in plates 455, 
 496, 497 and 49S. 
 
 The Gangarama Temple is about a mile and a half from 
 the Queen's Hotel by way of Malabar Street, taking the 
 second road to the left, where the post points to Lewella 
 Ferry. The temple is situated on high ground above the road, 
 which at this point takes a sharp curve. 
 
 For the Degaldoruwa (Plates 4S9 and 499) we continue 
 past the Gangarama for a quarter of a mile, and then inclining 
 to the right take the Lewella road, which in rather less than 
 half a mile reaches the ferry at the picturesque spot depicted 
 in plate 511. Here the Mahaweliganga is crossed and we 
 proceed by a pretty country lane for one mile, when the 
 temple is reached. This is a very charming little excursion 
 in the early morning when the temperature admits of exercise 
 without discomfort. It is best to drive to the Lewella Ferry 
 and walk the last mile of the journey. 
 
 Galmaduwa (Plates 475 and 476) is reached by proceeding 
 through Malabar Street upon the Badulla road for three miles, 
 when a place will be noticed with the name " Mountain 
 Dairy " inscribed upon it in large characters. At this point 
 there is a ferry, by which we cross the Mahaweliganga, and 
 walk for one mile by a short-cut path through cocoanut and 
 cacao plantations. L'pon returning to our carriage bv wav 
 of the ferry, one of the pleasantest drives near Kandy may 
 be taken by continuing our journey upon the Badulla road 
 for a few miles further. The road here follows the river 
 which adds greatly to the beauty of the landscape. 
 
 Lankatilake (Plates i, 459 and 460) may be reached by a 
 path a mile in length from the \illage of Dawuhigala, which 
 is three and a half miles from Peradeni\a junction station
 
 510. LEWELLA FERRY. 
 
 511. MAHAWELIGANGA AT LEWELLA.
 
 512. FMBEKKE. 
 
 13 CORNER OF A PADDY FIELD 
 
 <ANDYAN VILLAGE SCENE.
 
 THK HOOK OF CKVI.OX 381 
 
 by a minor road, rather steep and roui^h in places, but over Localities 
 which it is possible to dri\e. it the whole journey is taken °' KondNan 
 by a drive from Kandy 1)\ this route the distance will be '^■"f"^" 
 nine miles, Peradeniya junction beiui; half way. Lankatilake 
 may also be reached as described in connection with Kadu- 
 gannawa (page 2^2). In this case the dri\e from Kandy to 
 lilmbilimigama would be se\en miles, and thence marly four 
 miles by brjdle path. 
 
 (iadaladeniya is best reached b\ the route described on Ga.UiUuUniya 
 page 242. 
 
 Dodanwala should be reached by the route described on Dodanwaia 
 page 245. 
 
 Kmbekke should be \ isited at the same time as Lanka- Kmbekkc 
 tilake. It is nearly a mile by bridle path from I)awul;ig;ila. 
 
 Quite near the Embekke dewi'ilc is the \illag(.' of Kladetta, Hobcrt Kuox 
 where lived the English captive Robert Knox from the vear 
 1670 to 1679. This circumstance lends additional interest to 
 the locality. No story of Kandy is complete without some 
 reference to this remarkable man who, captured by Raja 
 Sinha 11. in tlu' \iar i()59, lived amongst the Kandxans for 
 twenty years, at the expiration of which period he escaped 
 almost miraculously, and has handed down to us an account 
 of the country and people, the strict veracity of which is un- 
 questionabk', notwithstanding that in strange and romantic 
 incident it surpasses most fiction.* 
 
 The capture of Knglishmen who anchored their ships in 
 the bay of Cottiar in order to trade with the natives appears 
 to have had a fascination for King Raja Sinha, who at one 
 time had no fewer than sixteen, whom he allow id to lixc in 
 and around Kandy under strict guard. Most of them resigned 
 themselves to their fate, found \\i\es amongst the native 
 women, settled down to natixe life and customs, and never 
 left the Island ; but Knox preserved his self-respect, took a 
 remarkably intelligent interest in all the strange events of life 
 around him, and never lost hope of escape. He occasionallv 
 came across some of the other Knglishmen, and for some time 
 lived with three of them at Kladetta. Here he acc|uired a pi<rce 
 of land and built a small cottage which he shared with Roger 
 (iold, Ralph Kniglit and Stephen Rutland. Knox ])lanted up 
 his land of which he says, " .Ml grew and prospered, and 
 yielded me great plenty and good increase, suHiciint both for 
 me and those that dwelt with inc. . \\C four lixtd 
 
 together some two years \er\ loxinj^K ami contentedK , not 
 an ill word passing between us. . . . Thus we lived in 
 the mountains, being round about us beset with watches. We 
 
 * " An Historical Relation of the Island of Ceylon, by Kobtrt Kncx, a 
 
 captive there near twenty year?." London. 1C81.
 
 382 Till': r.ooK ov (■I•:^'LON 
 
 l;luUcttit (oiild \\all< where- \\c would uj)()n the mountains, no man 
 
 mokstini^ us; so that \\c began to go about a-pcddling, and 
 trading in the (ounlry, further towards the northward, carry- 
 ing our raps about to sell." Referring to the situation of 
 his land Knox says : " 'J'he place also liked mc wondrous well, 
 it being a point of land standing in a corn field so that the 
 corn fields were on three sides of it and just before my door 
 a little corn ground belonging thereto and very well watered. 
 In the ground, besides eight cokernut trees, there were all 
 sorts of fruit trees the country afforded." 
 
 To those who are acquainted with Robert Knox's en- 
 grossing narrative a -visit to the spot where he spent so many 
 years of his long detention amongst the Kandyans will afford 
 some interest. His plot of land with the corn fields on three 
 sides as he described it adjoins the present residence of the 
 Dewa Nilame,* the noble old Kandyan chief whom we see in 
 our picture (Plate 515) surrounded by his Korales or sub- 
 ordinate officers and his elephants at the entrance of his 
 limlawwa. Within a few yards of this is the historic spot 
 where Knox's cottage stood. There is now no trace of the 
 humble dwelling ; but the site is still as described in his narra- 
 tive. After nearly twenty years' captivity Knox escaped and 
 subsequently wrote and publish^'d his observations, in which 
 he did a service to posterity that will preserve his name for 
 many more centuries. 
 Paddy The natural beauty of the Kandyan country is greatly 
 
 cultivation enhanced by the artifice of the paddy cultivator. No visitor 
 can fail to observe how exquisite is the appearance of the 
 hillsides that are terraced into shallow ledges upon which 
 tiny lakelets are formed for the purpose of growing rice, or 
 paddy as it is locally called, the latter term being applied to 
 rice in the husk. The ingenuity displayed by the natives in 
 the irrigation of steep mountain slopes is the most remark- 
 able feature of Sinhalese agriculture. The cultivation of 
 paddy demands land that will retain water upon its surface, 
 not only during the period of germination, but during a great 
 portion of the time required for the maturity of the plant ; 
 indeed, the half-ripe paddy, which clothes the slopes of the 
 hills with a mantle of the most radiant green, stands deep in 
 water. Only as the time for harvest approaches are the dams 
 broken and the water allowed to escape. In olden days, when 
 the inhabitants of these mountain fastnesses depended entirely 
 upon local produce for their sustenance, their native skill was 
 
 * The Dewa Nilame is the title of the chief who administers the lands 
 of the Temple of the Tooth. He has a Vidane or subordinate officer in 
 each village who collects the funds for commuted services, and directs 
 the performance of non-commuted services due to the Temple.
 
 
 
 n 
 
 ■?«■ 
 
 1 M 
 
 
 
 
 el'- > 
 
 •i^^ 
 
 •"^ 
 
 
 
 
 :fx V 
 
 ' ^€%'' 
 
 
 
 
 
 7^ •» 
 
 ^ Hn^^n^jnii' 
 
 dw^ja 
 
 L^ 
 
 N^I^Btv 
 
 U 
 
 
 K 
 
 
 
 ^^^''^i^HH^^^^H^^^^^^BMB^^b^^^ Lv^^^^^I 
 
 515. SCENE AT THE ENTRANCE OF THE DEWA NILAME S WALAWWA 
 
 AT ELADETTA. 
 
 516. ELEPHANTS AT PlAi
 
 11 1 1- I'.OOK ()!•■ CKVLOX 385 
 
 quickened I)\ iitccssity. If they were to enjoy the fare whieh f^a<idy 
 the low country people with their vast stretches of swampy c"'^'*"*'*" 
 land could so easily obtain they must hnd means of retainini^ 
 the needful element upon their precipitous hillsides ; to this 
 vm\ they scarped the hills, bringing forward the earth thus 
 removed to the front edge of the le\elKd ground, and utilising 
 it for the formation of shallow dams. The effect of this was 
 the construction of a series of pans the shape of which followed 
 the contour of the hills. Plate 517 sufficiently portrays the 
 method and its results that no further explanation is necessarv. 
 I>ut no picture can do full justice to the scene, and it must 
 always be borne in mind that there is no green like paddv 
 green, the rich glow of which must be seen in the mass in the 
 fields to be adequately realised. The ingenuity displayed in 
 keeping all the thousands of tiny lakelets supplied with water 
 stamps the Kandyan with the hall mark of resourcefulness. 
 The watercourses of the mountain tops are carefully studied, 
 and e\ cry stream is deflected to serve the end of the husband- 
 man ; aqueducts of \ arious materials, some of stone, some 
 merely mud, and others of bamboo, convey the precious fer- 
 tiliser to the \ari<)us ledges. Watercourses are even con- 
 structed Ijy tunnelling for long distances to catch the water 
 of streams, whose natural courses would convey it in quite 
 different directions. Many of them are considerable works of 
 engineering, one having been carried for six miles, in the 
 course of which it is fed bv five large streams. 
 
 But the application of art to the culture of paddy is not CircnwtiUs 
 limited to the formation of the terraces and their irrigation ; 
 it extends to e\ery process connected with the industry. The 
 traveller sees onl\- the picturesque fields and the quaint groups 
 of workers as he traxcis b\- road or rail; sometimes perhajis 
 he hears a distant chorus of song, or the sound of the tom- 
 tom ; but he knows nothing of the curious and interesting 
 cerinionies that accompany e\ery operation. What, with a 
 sublime sense of the superiority of our own knowkdge and 
 intelligence, we are pleased to call superstition enters into 
 every step in the undertaking which we ha\e now under 
 re\ iew. 
 
 It is the l)(li(f of the agriculturist that the suct-ess or The cultivator's 
 laikirr of his ciulcax ours depends mainly on the innumerable ^o^""" *" 
 and unseiii inlluences of gods, demi-gods and devils, benign 
 or evil, all of whiih must be invoked, conciliated or appeased, 
 as the case requires. The more enlightened tenets of Buddhism 
 ha\c not, as we have pre\iously obserwd, banished his fear 
 of the spirits of e\il who figure so largeh' in the older religious 
 systems. The belief in the necessity of an appeal to the super- 
 natural in almost e\ir\ im|)ortant act of life is the heritage of
 
 386 'iiii': HOOK OI-" (•l•:^■I.o^• 
 
 Paddy \asl aj^cs ol Maslcrn lh()Ut;ht. 'I'lius in the [)iiinary operation 
 
 cultivation yj selecting land lor tillage there is the consultation of planetary 
 powers through the medium of the astrologer. Again, cultiva- 
 tion must be begun with due regard to the lucky day and 
 hour; the astrologer claims his toll of betel in fixing the 
 auspicious moment. Even the choice of a person who is to 
 start the work of clearing the land is important, the task 
 being committed to one who is considered to be favoured by 
 the gods. With equal care must the buffaloes be introduced 
 for the purpose ol trampling the weeds and kneading the 
 moistened soil, while for the most important act of sowing 
 the choice of the proper hour is the object of great solicitude. 
 
 rhescn.wns In this climate, where the temperature changes little 
 
 throughout the year, seed time and harvest are by means of 
 irrigation very much at the will of the husbandman, who 
 therefore fixes his seed time according to the average condi- 
 tions of rainfall in his particular district. In Kandy the 
 harvest is arranged to fall in February, while in the low 
 country nearer Colombo it is some weeks earlier, and in many 
 districts it falls at quite different periods of the year. 
 
 The plough The plough is a primitive implement of wood, the share 
 
 of which is not much larger than a man's arm, or, as Knox 
 says, " something like an elbow which roots up the ground 
 as uneven as if it were done by hogs." He also states that 
 the ploughs are made light in order that they may not be 
 unmanageable in the mud. They do not turn the soil in 
 furrows and bury the grass, which would be unnecessary; 
 for the land is subsequently flooded in a manner that rots 
 the uprooted surface vegetation. A cross bar is attached to 
 the end of a pole that extends from the ploughshare, and 
 tethered to this the buffaloes draw the plough, the operation 
 of which they eftectivcly supplement by their own trampling. 
 
 The seed The seed paddy is prepared by soaking in water for about 
 
 thirty-six hours, after which it is spread upon a mat and 
 covered with the green leaves of the plantain tree. After 
 several days it begins to germinate and is then ready for 
 sowing. Aleanwhile the cultivator levels the ground, which 
 is still flooded, and so remains while the seed is germinating. 
 The seed being now ready the water is drained off, and 
 diminutive channels or furrows are found on the surface 
 which carry away any rain that may fall ; for water would 
 now be injurious until the corn has attained the height of 
 
 SoaiHg about three inches. The paddy seed is now strewn upon the 
 
 mud with great evenness. After a few days, during which 
 the land is kept as free as possible from surface water, the 
 openings that have been made through the dams to drain 
 off the water are stopped, and the land again flooded, and
 
 518. TOM-TOMS USED IN PADDY CULTIVATION CEREMONIES. 
 
 til9. ELEPHANTS AT NUC.AWbLA.
 
 THE ROOK Ol- CKVLOX 389 
 
 so remains until the corn rij)cns and tlic time of harvest is Paddy 
 near. cultivation 
 
 The vouni; i)Iants are said to l)c sa\^(l lioni the ravat^cs 
 ol insects by means ol charms and the recital ol \arious in- 
 cantations. The charms include the scatterings ot sand or chamn 
 ashes around the borders, accompanied by fasting;- and strict 
 seclusion from society on the part of the performer of the rites ; 
 instances of the benign influence of the Lord Buddha in free- 
 ing- the corn from pests are solciiinly r(( itcd And the same 
 influence invoked. Other gods and goddesses are appealed 
 to for securing- the diparturi- of \arious grubs and Hies, and 
 in e\erv case a strange ceremony is performed. Many of the 
 invocations are couched in beautiful languag^e, but the execu- 
 tion of the charms invokes proceedings that to us appear 
 somewhat strangle; as when "after dark a man steals three 
 ekel brooms from three different houses. These he ties tog^ethi-r 
 with creeper and hangs them to his waist-striiig- behind. Pro- 
 ceeding to the field, he walks three times round it, I)uries 
 the bundle in the main opening- throug-h the dam and returns 
 home unot)S(r\((l. 1 lu' whole time, and if possible the next 
 morning, he remains mute." Agaiii, "the Yakdcssi'i should 
 si)end the previous night in a lon;l\- spot, after having put 
 on clean clothes and eaten ' niilk--riic. ' The following- morn- 
 ing', without i-ommunicating- with anxonc he sliould go to the 
 field. na\ing caught a fly, he must hold it for a while in 
 rosin smoke, over which he has muttered the following- charm 
 one hundred and eight times, and afterwards release it in 
 the iicld : '()')iii(ini()! By the pow-er of Lord Buddha who 
 came to dispel tlie pcstilenc-e of the great city Wisala, this 
 \ery day all \e llower-flies, black flies, probiscus-armed flies, 
 and earth grubs of this field, away, away; stay not."* 
 
 With reference to these customs Knox, who, it will be 
 remembered, lived amongst the Kandyans during his capti\-ity 
 for iiineteen years, with characteristic tui'ivclc remarks: " .\nd 
 indeed it is sad to (onsider how this poor people are subjected 
 to the devil ; and thev themscKcs acknowledge it their miserv, 
 saying their couiitry is so full of devils and e\il s|)irits that, 
 unless in this manner tlie\- should adore theni, they w-ould be 
 destro\-ed bv them. . . . If a stranger should dislike 
 their way, reproxe, or mock at lheni for their ignorance arid 
 folly, they would acknowledge the same and laus^h at tin- 
 sU|)ei-stitions ol ilieii- own dexolioii; but withal tell vou that 
 the\- are const rained to do what tliv do to keej) themsel\-es 
 li'otu the nialice and rnlschlel ili;it the e\ il spirits would other- 
 wise do them, with which, the\ say, their (ouritr\- swarnis." 
 
 * From "Paddy Cultivation Customs,'" l>v H. C. I'. Bell, CCS., 
 R A.S. Journal (Ceylon branch). Vol. \'III. No. 26.
 
 390 Till-: HOOK oi" (■I■:^'IX)X 
 
 I'iiJJ.v It would .'ilinost sccni tli:i1 charms arc introduced chiefly to 
 
 cultivation pn'ct (•iiicri^ciirics in which jjractical methods arc of no avail; 
 hut when the Kandyan has to deal with the depredations of 
 hirds and the larj^cr animals we find that he is not above 
 supplementing- supernatural agency by human means. A crop- 
 Thecrop- watcher's hut is built of bamboos and roofed with plaited 
 
 "'"'' ^" cocoanut fronds ; and from this lines of cord, made from 
 
 cocoanut fibre, extend in all directions, communicating with 
 ingeniously constructed rattles of an alarmingly discordant 
 nature. 'J'hus the inhabitants of the hut are enabled effectively 
 to scare both animals and birds who would otherwise rob 
 them of the fruits of their labour. Hut the}- do not depend 
 solely upon these devices : this little hut is the temporary home 
 of many persons who reside in it night and day during the 
 ripening- period, and each occupant is armed with a bow and 
 stones. The bow is of the ordinary kind used with arrows, 
 but with a second string- which enables it to hurl stones ; for 
 the enemies of the paddy cultivator are not limited to the 
 smaller creatures, but include all manner of wild animals 
 whose depredations need the most constant vigilance. 
 Harvest Wc now comc to the time of harvest, and for a moment 
 
 again refer to Knox, who says : "At reaping they are ex- 
 cellent good, just after the English manner. . . . As 
 they join together in tilling so in their harvest also ; for all 
 fall in together in reaping one man's field, and so to the next 
 until everv man's corn be down. And the custom is that every 
 man, during the reaping of his corn, finds all the rest with 
 victuals. The women's work is to gather up the corn after 
 the reapers, and carry it all together." This is as true to-day 
 as when Knox penned the words more than two centuries ago. 
 Indeed this pursuit of paddy culture is to them an honourable 
 and even sacred duty and is engaged in quite irrespective of 
 economic considerations ; for if wealth were the only object 
 the Kandyan would now find it more profitable to import his 
 rice and direct his attention to other articles that would bring- 
 him a better return. But it is not wealth that he seeks ; he 
 works not for mere wages, but in obedience to ancient customs. 
 It is this attitude that accounts for the introduction of an 
 elaborate ceremonial into his favourite pursuit. We shall now 
 see in his harvest operations how true this is, and the reader 
 may behold in our illustrations realistic scenes that will con- 
 firm our assertions. 
 
 The priests, astrologers, doctors and devil-dancers are now 
 agreed as to the auspicious moment for putting- in the sickle ; 
 the band of tom-tom players assembles ; spectators also arrive 
 upon the scene ; everyone wears a look of gladness. The intro- 
 ductory symphonv is placed by the drums of strange make
 
 ff^»fe<<i^iS^\'.WBwta*jiMiT'ir~i wwnarjnr^' 
 
 522. CARRYING THE SHEAVES TO THE THRESHi
 
 HI^^^^^HS^"^ ' - ' 
 
 '•"?-^% J ■■ 
 
 
 ■'''■■::liV. 
 
 
 .V'>'' Ate. »f ■» ^ 
 
 ryJM-- Im^.., _ 
 
 
 fi t8wB 
 
 |jjj|tnn 1 T 
 
 ^s^ ^H^l 
 
 
 
 -^ ^-x^^^^^^^^^^^H^^^B^ 
 
 .rj 
 
 523. THE CEREMONY OF THE FIRST SHEAF. 
 
 
 
 J'l^v^y 
 
 ^:NMi 
 
 524. THE CEREMONY OF THE THREE SHEAVES.
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVLOX 393 
 
 and tuned to intervals unfamiliar to Western ears, and son^ Paddy 
 bursts forth from the reapers as they spring forward from the cultivation 
 shallow embankments with their keen sickles to fell the stand- 
 ing- corn. The ceremonies connected with paddy cultivation 
 vary in different districts, but I am describing what I saw at 
 Nugawela through the courtesy of Ratc'mahatmaya Xugawela, 
 son of the Dewa Xilame to whom reference has been made. Kcipi'it; 
 Our illustration (Plate 521 J faithfully portrays the scene. The 
 onlookers are in the foreground, and the tom-tom players 
 upon the bund are stimulating the reapers with the weird music 
 of their drums. The various kinds of drums are depicted in 
 plate 518, and a complete group of the tom-tom beaters and 
 dancers is given in plate 520. The vivacity of the scene is 
 striking ; it is the natural introduction of native sentiment 
 into the operations of agriculture ; the \\ork is easier and 
 more cheerfully done to the accompaniment of melody ; how 
 strangely it contrasts with the stolid and often depressed mien 
 borne by Hodge of the Western world, whose whole manner 
 is as hea\v as his boots. 
 
 The work of carrying the sheaves to the threshing floor Carding 
 is allotted to the women. In plate 522 we see them walking 
 in procession along the bund or dam with sheaves upon their 
 heads, and in plate 523 they ha\ e arrived. The threshing floor rurahint; 
 is in the open field upon high ground in the most con- ■''"'" 
 venient place that can be found near the irrigated land. It is 
 usually circular in shape and from twenty-five to fortv feet in 
 diameter. The ceremony that here takes place is exceedingly 
 picturesque, the details only varying in different districts. In 
 the middle sexeral concentric circles are traced with ashes, 
 the outer one being bordered by various ornamental signs. 
 The circles are bisected by straight lines ; in the di\ isions or 
 segments thus formed \arious representations are drawn ; 
 sometimes these are a considerable number and include several 
 agricultural implements, a broom, Huddha's foot, a scraper, 
 a flail and a measure; but in the ceremony which I witnessed 
 and illustrate the segments only of the inner circle were used, 
 and in these were drawn a pitchfork, a scraper and a measure ; 
 near these were placed a stone and a conch shell, the latter 
 filled with \;ni()us ingredients which remind one of the 
 constituents of the pot of the beldames in Macbeth. The 
 preliminaries being now completed, and the lucky moment 
 ascertained, that husbandman whom the gods have most con- 
 sistently fa\oured with good fortune is (hosen to cast down 
 the first sheaf. With this upon his head he walks with grave 
 and solemn step thrice around the traced figure, bowing 
 towards the conch shell as he reaches each point from which 
 the bisecting lines are drawn ; then, being careful to face the 
 2 .A
 
 394 
 
 Tin-: nooK of cf-:ylon 
 
 Paddy 
 cultivation 
 
 Treading out 
 the corn 
 
 The buffaloes 
 
 ]ViiiKO~u'ing 
 aiul pounding 
 
 direction fixed by ihc astrologer, he casts down the sheaf 
 upon the conch shell and, prostrating himself as illustrated 
 b\- plate 523, with joined palms he profoundly salutes it three 
 times, rising to his knees after each salutation. He then retires 
 and three women approach the conch shell as seen in plate 524, 
 and after walking thrice around it in solemn and silent pro- 
 cession they cast down their sheaves upon that already placed 
 there and retire. The rest of the corn is brought in and cast 
 upon the threshing floor without further ceremony. The fee 
 due to the women for their share of the ceremony is as much 
 rice as would lie upon the stone which formed part of the 
 articles deposited under the first sheaf. 
 
 At eventide, the auspicious moment being first ascertained, 
 teams of buffaloes (Plate 525), as innocent of the muzzle as 
 though they were subject to the Mosaic law, are brought to 
 the threshing floor and driven over the paddy, always to the 
 accompaniment of song. In districts where rainfall is frequent 
 threshing takes place on the eve of the day of reaping, and 
 while in such fresh condition the ears need a very considerable 
 amount of trampling, during the course of which no reverence 
 that can be shown towards the miitta or charmed conch shell 
 is neglected ; with solemn homage the men bow as from time 
 to time they sweep the half threshed ears from the edges 
 towards the centre of the floor. Sometimes one of them will 
 take up the wooden prong with which the straw is pushed 
 back from the outer edges, and placing it upon his shoulder 
 march round the threshing floor singing a song invoking 
 immunity from the influences of evil spirits. 
 
 The buffaloes which we see in our picture, although so 
 useful and obedient to the Sinhalese boys, who keep them in 
 constant motion upon the unthreshed paddy, are of the same 
 species as the dangerous beasts that in their wild state afford 
 such excitement to the sportsmen, when they are enemies by 
 no means to be despised ; their heavy ribbed horns, Avhich lie 
 apparently so harmless on their shoulders, are good both for 
 attack and defence, and when threatened either by man or 
 beast they are extremely resolute antagonists. 
 
 At length the paddy is found to have been trodden from 
 the ears and the buffaloes are released and driven oft' to their 
 more congenial occupation of wallowing in the swamps until 
 again required. The straw is removed and the paddv fanned 
 free of any rubbish that may have accumulated amongst it. 
 Next it is heaped in the middle of the threshing floor and a 
 charm is placed upon it. A lucky hour is next ascertained 
 for the process of winnowing, when it is pounded bv the 
 women as illustrated in plate 526 and tossed and fanned upon 
 the winnowing trays. It is then stored in granaries, one of
 
 525. TREADING OUT THE CORN. 
 
 526. THE WOMEN WHO POUND AND WINNOW THE CORN
 
 SM. THE WALAWWA DECORATED IN RELAPALAMA.
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVLOX 397 
 
 the most curious forms of which is the bissa (Plate 528). This Paddy 
 receptacle is usually in the shape of a large urn made of cultivation 
 basketwork which is protected with a thick coating of mortar. 
 This coating usually reaches to the top of the bissu, but in The bissa 
 our illustration we see it extending only to the middle, and 
 the bare upper portion gives a good idea of the method of 
 construction. In most instances the bissa has a circular 
 thatched roof, not square as in our picture. 
 
 The short sketch of ceremonies attendant on the cultiva- 
 tion of paddy here given must not be regarded as a complete 
 account; for the customs are infinite in variety, and those of 
 one district would, if fully described, occupy a considerable 
 portion of this volume. 
 
 The curious decoration known as rdapi'ilama exemplified Rdapniama 
 in plates ^2-j and 529 is a form of Kandyan art that deserves 
 brief notice. It represents the native method of house decora- 
 tion for occasions of special hospitality, festivity or showing 
 respect. In the present instance Ratemahatmaya Xugawela, 
 the chief of the district, had decorated his ^calaivzi'a for the 
 reception of the Government agent upon his official visit of 
 inspection. The appearance in a photograph is that of 
 crinkled paper; but it is in fact cloth of various colours, and 
 it represents very considerable labour and skill. The artist 
 is one of the chief's retainers whose sole duty lies in attending 
 to this decoration. 
 
 The Kand}an's love of ceremonial is perhaps best instanced Administra> 
 by the display that takes place upon occasions of the per- *'°" P' ''""' 
 formance of official functions. We have already referred to 
 the system of administering rural districts in accordance with 
 ancient customs through the medium of native chiefs and their 
 subordinate officers under the direct instructions and super- 
 vision of the Government agents, and we may now pause for 
 a moment to gather some idea of what those customs were 
 in the days of the Kandyan kings. Sir John D'Oyly, who 
 was present throughout the Kandyan war and was afterwards 
 political resident in Kandy, has left a comprehensive sketch 
 of the constitution of the Kandyan kingdom, from which we 
 learn that the King was an absolute despot with power of life 
 and death ; but in matters of importance it was customarv for 
 him to consult his nobles and the chief priests. His authoritv 
 was exercised through officers of state to whom the general 
 administration of public affairs was entrusted. These officers 
 were Adigars, or prime ministers ; Disawas, or governors of 
 provinces below the mountains ; and Ratemahatmayas, or 
 governors of districts in the mountains. These oflicers pos- 
 sessed universal authority, both executive and judicial, within 
 their respective jurisdictions. They received no stipends, but 
 
 districts
 
 398 I'lll': r.OOK ()!• CIOVLON 
 
 Aiiministra- wcic (1)1 It led lo sundry ciiioluincnts Ironi persons under them. 
 
 tion of rural '|h,ir subordinate olliccrs called K(')ralas acted in various 
 "'" "^ *■ '^ capacities as headmen of villages or of classes of people classi- 
 
 fied according- to caste or occupation. The sub-di\ision of 
 authority included too many titles and oflices for detailed 
 mention here ; it is sullicient for our purpose to remark that 
 the system was possessed of sufficient merit to be in the main 
 preserved under British government. The place of the Adigar 
 is now occupied by the Government Agent, but the Ratemahat- 
 mayas and Konilas remain, and with them many of the pic- 
 turesque ceremonies denoting respect for rank. One of these 
 we will shortly desecribe. 
 
 The Government The traveller who takes a drive for a few miles into one 
 
 Aaent on circuit ^f ^|-,^, districts presided over by a Ratemahatmaya may find 
 the road temporarily blocked l^y the presence of some ten 
 to fifteen elephants, more or less adorned with trappings; 
 the Ratemahatmaya or chief himself in his official costume 
 attended by the Koralas from a large number of villages, an 
 extensive group of devil dancers in their gorgeous and weird 
 habiliments (see plate 520), the band of tom-tom players in 
 equally diabolical attire, and a throng of beholders all decked 
 in the gaudiest of comboys. They are awaiting the arrival of 
 the Government Agent, who is coming on circuit of inspection. 
 The position they have taken up is about two miles from the 
 ivalawwa, or residence of the Ratemahatmaya, where the 
 inquiry into matters of administration takes place. Presently 
 a carriage is seen approaching in the distance ; the word goes 
 forth that the Government Agent is coming, and a procession 
 is formed to conduct him to his destination, the elephants 
 leading in single file with the devil dancers and tom-tom 
 players next, in double file and facing backwards, the Koralas 
 next and the chief in all his magnificence in the rear. When 
 the carriage arrives in rear of the procession the Ratemahat- 
 maya salutes and welcomes the Government Agent, the 
 Koralas then salute in turn after the Kandyan fashion by 
 placing the palms of the hands together, the Government 
 Agent returning the salute in the same manner. This cere- 
 mony being over the procession proceeds and the devil dancers 
 and tom-tom players still moving backwards dance and dis- 
 course song until the umlawiva is reached. Our small snap- 
 shot (Plate 530), which it will be observed is taken over the 
 ears of the horses, will give some idea of this interesting pro- 
 cession. The elephants which are only dimly observable in the 
 distance will give an indication of the length of the procession, 
 a continuation of which is observable in plate 531, where the 
 elephants are proceeding round a bend of the road. Upon 
 arrival at the u'a/aictt'a the members of the procession disperse
 
 ELEPHANTS
 
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 THK BOOK OI' Ci:\I.OX 401 
 
 and the Government business begins ; not, however, until Administra- 
 the sightseers ha\e been entertained with some amusing per- *'.<>" p' ''"'■*' 
 formances by the elephants in which they disjilay tlK-ir tract- 
 ability, intelligence and obedience to their keepers. In plates 
 516 and 532 wc see them at play, one of their perlormanccs 
 being a sham execution by pretended trampling upon the 
 victim. 
 
 'i'he crowd (^onsists for the most part of suppliants from suppliants 
 scores of out]\ing villages, who claim on various grounds to 
 be exempted from taxation; some have been disabled for life 
 by the venomous bites of snakes ; others by falls from trees ; 
 many exhibit limbs contorted by rheumatism ; some are too 
 old ; others too young. Each is brought forward by the 
 Korala of his \'illage, who explains the nature of the plea, 
 the suppliant himself supplying the details. In many cases 
 the grounds are insufficient for exemption, and the practised 
 eye of the Government Agent is quick to detect a sham pre- 
 text or feeble excuse. Amusing incidents often occur, as 
 when the youth, who may be seen in plate 533, pleaded that 
 he was a child of tender years, in reply to which statement 
 the K6rala, whom we see in the same picture with his back 
 turned towards us, remarked that at any rate hi' had "con- 
 ducted a wife," the native term for marriage. This intro- 
 duction of the innocent child's connubial achievements drew 
 a smile from his own countenance, which had hitherto worn 
 a look of dejection, and a peal of laughter from the crowd. 
 'J'hus discomlited he retired, the decision having been given 
 that in labour or in kind he must contribute his quota to the 
 revenue. 
 
 The Korakis, or headmen of the \illages, are distinguished The K,u,u,!s 
 as may be seen in plates 533-536 by their hats. They arc 
 in decidedly " undress " uniform as to their shoulders, and 
 look rather as if they had taken off their coats and stuffed 
 them into their waist (-loths. Their dress is, however, very 
 suitable for the climate in which th('\ Ii\c, iind entails none 
 of the discomforts which our con\entional attire inflicts upon 
 us in the same country. In plate 536 the su])pliant standing 
 in the foreground is supporting what seems to us to resemble 
 a log of wood, and it will be noticed that others in the crowd 
 have similar articles ; these are in fact umbrellas, each con- 
 sisting of a single leaf of the talipot palm ; when spread out 
 as seen in plate 3()5 the\' arc imuh more i lT('cti\e and useful 
 than the European article, whicii would be of little ser\ ice in 
 tropical storms. 
 
 Every detail of administration passes under the re\ iew of 
 the Government Agent as he proceeds fiom time to time on 
 cinniit. The schools, the Gansabawas, or \illage tribunals,
 
 districts 
 
 402 'iiip: hook of ci-:^'lon 
 
 Bducation aiul tlu' (lis|)ciisaric.s arc visited and Ihc work and proceedings 
 in rural examined. Xugawela girls' school is illustrated by plate 538; 
 
 the pupils have considerately come out from beneath the 
 thatched roof to appear in the photograph. Other village 
 schools ai-e represented in plates 537 and 540. I^^ducation is 
 compulsory and enforced through the medium of the village 
 tribunal. No attempt has been made to introduce great 
 changes that might result in the destruction of the sentiments 
 of (adture that have come down as an inheritance of the people, 
 the fruits of social systems that have little or nothing in 
 common with Western ideas. The policy has been rather to 
 substitute European practical methods gradually, exchanging 
 the black-board for the sand upon the floor, and the modern 
 printed book for the primitive palm leaf manuscript ; and 
 passing on to the encouragement of physical exercise and such 
 practical pursuits as that of gardening. Referring to the 
 older method the Director of Public Instruction says — 
 
 " There is no more interesting survival in Ceylon than the 
 Pansala school. Centuries ago these schools were a living 
 institution here, as they are to-day in Burma. In Ceylon only 
 a feeble flicker of that life remains ; but here and there you 
 will still find at the A'illage temple a yellow-robed priest seated 
 perhaps under a tree and teaching five or six boys. Each of 
 these holds a scrap of ola manuscript, and they are learning 
 to read from such books as the temple happens to possess. 
 There is a well-defined series of old works on the Sinhalese 
 alphabet and grammar, which is supposed to form the regular 
 course of the Pansala school. But such studies are, as a rule, 
 confined to those intended for the priesthood ; the ordinary 
 village boy at the Pansala school learns nothing except to 
 read and write, and this Instruction is imparted by means of 
 books only dimly understood. Many have thought that the 
 Pansala school ought to have been adopted by the English as 
 the means of education in rural districts. But such a step 
 was impossible." 
 
 In earlier times it was not customary to provide any 
 education for girls. It was in fact considered in Ceylon as 
 unwomanly for a female to read and write as in Europe It was 
 for a woman to smoke or drive an omnibus. It was not the 
 custom, and the stigma or opprobrium was attached to the 
 accomplishment. But now the old attitude has become a 
 thing of the past and in a Sinhalese village such a scene as 
 that depicted by plate 538 is common enough. 
 
 The school garden which will frequently be noticed by the 
 visitor who explores the Kandyan country is the latest develop- 
 ment of the native schools. Suitable sites and sufiiclent land 
 are provided near the school premises, with teachers who are
 
 541. HATARALIYADDA. 
 
 542. THE GAN3ABAWA AT HATARALIYADDA.
 
 THK BOOK OF CEVLON 405 
 
 capable of giving- instruction in the work ; seeds and implc- School 
 mtnts are supplied by the Government and the produce is ^^'■<*^"s 
 divided between the masters and pupils. The scheme has 
 worked well, and it is particularly noticeable that useful vege- 
 tables are culti\ated, many of which were unknown to the 
 districts before the school gardens were inaugurated. More- 
 over, new products from other countries have been introduced 
 experimentally, so that the observant pupil may acquire in- 
 formation that will be most useful to him in his after life, 
 which must in most cases be devoted to agriculture ; and the 
 system extensively applied may prove of great value to the 
 country at large. 
 
 The Gansabawa or village tribunal to w hich we have T^e Gansa- 
 referred is a court of minor causes in both civil and criminal 
 cases. It is presided over by a paid official who bears the 
 title of President of the Gansabawa. The value of such an 
 institution in outlying districts where the matters in dispute 
 are often trivial and the people naturally litigious cannot be 
 overestimated ; it saves time and costs to litigants who would 
 otherwise have to spend days in travelling to a superior court ; 
 and it has the great merit of relic\ing the higher judiciary of 
 petty cases. Illustrations of Gansabawas are given in plates 
 539 and 54:2. The former is at Galagedara, and the latter at 
 Hataraliyadda. These two places are rather off the beaten 
 track of the visitor, but merit some description. Galagedara 
 is a village situated in the division of the Kandyan countrv 
 known as Tumpane, near the hig"h road from Kandy to Kurune- 
 g-ala. At the eleventh mile from Kandy a minor road inclining 
 to the left is taken and the villag^e reached in half a mile. The 
 country is picturesque for the whole distance, its beauty in- 
 creasing when at the ninth mile the mountains of the Kurunc- 
 gala district come into view. It is an agricultural centre of 
 some importance and possesses a Aery comfortable rest-house 
 overlooking- a villag^e g-reen upon which the school (Plate 540) 
 is built. It was until recently the seat of a magistrate, for 
 whose residence the building which now does dutv as a rest- 
 house was cret^ted. 
 
 Hataraliyadda is a hamlet l\ing in a most fruitful and Hataraii- 
 i)eautiful valley midway between Galag^edara and Rambuk- 
 kana, from which it is distant seven miles. It is at the foot 
 of Allagalla on the north side, as noted on page 233, where 
 we have described the south side of the mountain along which 
 the train creeps in its ascent from Rambukkana to Kandy. 
 The exuberant richness of the vegetation will be noticed in 
 plate 542, which in the foreground presents the Gansabawa 
 with the heights of .Mlagalla in the distant background. This 
 is a warm and moist spot sm'rounded b\ hills and well watered,
 
 4o6 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Matiiraii and while till' conditions for the rapid j^rowth of tropical vege- 
 
 ^'' " lation arc perfect they are most enervating- to the European. 
 
 A night spent under shelter of the Gansabawa was the 
 warmest 1 ever experienced, save perhaps some July nights 
 in the Red Sea. The early mornings are thick with dense 
 mists, which, however, rapid!}- disperse with the appearance of 
 the sun. 
 
 Diimbara W^hcthcr wc makc an excursion from Kandy to the north, 
 
 south, cast or west the landscape will be found equally interest- 
 ing and the flora one dream of beauty, while the roads, in 
 contrast with those of other beautiful countries, as for instance 
 New Zealand, present no difficulties or even features of dis- 
 comfort for either cyclist, motorist, or the patron of the more 
 primitive method of conveyance by means of horses or bullocks. 
 It is somewhat difficult to select excursions for detailed descrip- 
 tion here, since obviously all places of interest cannot be dealt 
 with in this modest volume. Our choice, however, falls upon 
 Dumbara, on the eastern side, because w^ith the great natural 
 beauty common to the whole province it combines features 
 of considerable historic interest, and moreover in its agricul- 
 tural products differs somewhat from the districts to the west 
 which we have already explored. 
 
 If the weather is propitious we need prepare only to spend 
 two nights away from Kandy, at Teldeniya, where we shall 
 find a good rest-house, charmingly situated and presided over 
 by an attentive member of the gentler sex, an uncommon cir- 
 cumstance in Ceylon. 
 
 Comwattc We Start from Kandy by way of Malabar Street and 
 
 onwards to the sixth mile where Gonawatte Ferry is reached. 
 Close by the road opposite the toll station are a large bo 
 tree, a iinhare and a pansaJa. " .A. sitting image of Buddha, 
 formerly placed under the overhanging rock, is in the pausaJa ; 
 the rock under which the image stood is painted to imitate 
 cloth. Offerings are made at the bo tree. Some yards higher 
 up is a dagaha, sixty feet in circumference on the ground and 
 about thirty feet high. The upper square base of the umbrella 
 is comparatively modern, and its weight has thrust out the 
 sides of mason work. The dagaha is of stone, or at least 
 coated with stone. In the pansala garden, on the steep hill- 
 side above the road, are the caves of a very ancient settle- 
 ment of Buddhists. There are several caves with katare (drip 
 line cut on the brow of the rock) and on the face of the one 
 not far above the dagaha is a Nagara inscription, which has 
 been deciphered by Mr. Nevill, C.C.S., to be a grant to the 
 priesthood by Gamini, detailing a pedigree of several genera- 
 tions. The inscription is probably of the second century before 
 Christ. The cave commands a charming: view across the
 
 
 
 
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 ii^pi^ ' 
 
 543 546. HATARALIYADDA. 
 
 547. GONAWATTE
 
 THE HOOK OF CEYLON 409 
 
 Mahaweliganga to Pallukelc estate and the more distant Dumbara 
 ranges of hills." (^Sir A. Lawrie.J 
 
 The Gonawatte Ferry now conveys us with our motor car 
 or horses and carriage across the Mahaweliganga to the Tel- 
 deniya road, and we are soon driving through groves of 
 cacao or chocolate trees for which the valley of Dumbara is 
 famous. This fruit has been systematically culti\atcd in Caaw 
 Ceylon only in quite recent times, and its introduction here 
 about five and twenty years ago was due to the necessity of 
 finding new products to take the place of coffee. In the year 
 1878 there were only three hundred acres of cacao in the 
 whole of Ceylon and the export for that year was little more 
 than one thousand pounds. Now there are more than thirty- 
 five thousand acres and the annual export is about seven 
 million pounds, the industry standing third in importance 
 among the agricultural pursuits of the colony. 
 
 Before the Ceylon planter entered the field in cacao 
 culture, the world's supply came chiefly from the continents 
 of Africa and America and it is interesting to know that, as 
 with other products, notably tea, cardamons and rubber, the 
 cacao of this country is unrivalled in its quality ; this desir- 
 able consummation of the planter's efforts is probably due 
 in a greater measure to his skill and scientific methods than 
 to the special suitability of soil and climate, although these 
 conditions are very favourable in the districts of Matale and 
 Dumbara. Cacao needs good depth of soil, moderate rain- 
 fall, a temperature such as that of the medium elevations in 
 Ceylon, and a situation that protects it from wind. These 
 qualities are found combined in very few districts of Ceylon 
 and the area suitable for cacao is therefore much more 
 restricted than for tea and rubber. The natural place of the 
 cacao plant is in the forest, for it needs the shade of higher 
 trees. We notice that various trees are planted for this pur- 
 pose upon the Dumbara estates and among them rubber. 
 This feature is now one of supreme interest in view of the 
 value attached to the rubber trees themselves. I'or man\- 
 years the interplanting of cacao with other trees tliat ha\c 
 an important commercial value has been a matter of interest- 
 ing experiment, and has reached a stage pregnant with 
 valuable experience. It is therefore probable that the cacao 
 industry in association with other products will become in- 
 creasingly profitable. .Already about one fourth of the acreage 
 planted is combined with rubber, while many planters supple- 
 ment cacao with tea, and some with cocoanuts. 
 
 In appearance the cacao estate bears a striking contrast 
 to the tea ; for whereas the plants of the latter by frequent 
 pruning are kept down to one monotonous level presenting 
 2 li
 
 410 rill-: HOOK ()I< CKYI.ON 
 
 Dumbara '"^ aiiiUcial aspect, rclicN cd only Ijy the contour ol the ru^-^f^^ed 
 
 caaw liills whose wild and beautiful forests they ha\e displaced, 
 
 the cacao, in itself a beautiful tree, is carefully nurtured to 
 its full maturity of fifteen to twenty feet beneath the shade 
 of trees that lend charm to the naturally graceful appearance 
 of its drooping branches with their red leaves fading to pink 
 and reminding one of the autumn tints of a western land- 
 scape. Particularly beautiful are they when little clusters of 
 white and pink blossom appear, as is so frequently the case 
 with tropical trees, not on the young shoots, but on the 
 , trunks and older Hmbs. The fruit that follows hangs from 
 the stems and thicker branches in clusters, differing in colour 
 and size according to the variety of the tree, some being red, 
 some purple, some yellow and others green, while in shape 
 they are ovate and in size from six to eight inches in length. 
 The pods have prominent ridges running lengthways and their 
 surface is rugged, somewhat resembling the skin of a 
 crocodile. 
 
 The time for harvesting is indicated by the change of 
 colour which the pods assume as they reach maturity ; or by 
 the sound which is produced by the pods when tapped with 
 the finger. The latter is regarded by the experienced planter 
 as the safer criterion ; for the colour may occasionally fail 
 to change before the seeds within have begun to germinate, 
 and it is the seed which forms the cacao or chocolate. The 
 operations of gathering and shelling are simple. The pods 
 must be removed by a clean cut ; they are then opened, the 
 seeds placed in baskets, and fruit walls buried, or in some 
 cases burnt, and used for manure. There is however a cer- 
 tain amount of sugary substance adhering to the seeds, and 
 this must be removed by fermentation. This process is carried 
 out by placing the seeds in heaps under covers of leaves and 
 sand, and stirring them occasionally during a few days, after 
 which they are thoroughly washed and dried in the sun. 
 Teldeniya Teldeniya is reached at the fifteenth mile. \\'e enter the 
 
 village by the road seen in plate 551 and find the rest-house 
 quite close to the bridge over the river Huluganga. Our 
 view (Plate 552) is taken from the entrance ; the time is 
 February and the harvest of paddy is being gathered in from 
 the terraced fields ; the elevated circular ground at the far 
 end of the field is the threshing floor, and as we sit in the 
 verandah of the rest-house after dinner in the evening the 
 sound of the threshing songs reaches our ears and we know 
 that the buffaloes are treading out the corn. The season is 
 dry and the river bed scarce covered by the meandering 
 stream, which in rainy weather becomes a raging torrent 
 overflowing the steep banks now clothed with rich vegetation.
 
 653. BAMBARAGALA WIHARE. 
 
 MEDAMAHANUWARA. 
 
 - iv^^^i^^ 
 
 
 -i QALMABOYA NEa
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 413 
 
 Teldeniya is said to have been a royal hunting ground in Dumbara 
 the time of King Raja Sinha, who on one occasion in anger TtLiouyu 
 cleared off all the inhabitants for the fault of one, a crop 
 watchman, who sounded his fearsome instrument the taga- 
 rapponiii'a to scare away animals from the crops, in ignorance 
 that the king was at the moment engaged in hunting them. 
 The entire population suffered banishment and the village was 
 re-pcoplcd by others. 
 
 There stands on a hill about a mile to the west of Tel- Bambara- 
 deniya the most important li'ihdrc in this part of Dumbara, *■'"'" 
 the Bambaragala. The whole institution in fact consists of 
 two rock temples one above the other. Both are reached 
 by flights of stone steps (Plate 553). These temples are 
 interesting not only as curious and ancient places of Buddhist 
 worship, but for their situation, which commands beautiful 
 views of the country around. Some inscription upon the rocks 
 in Asoka characters indicate that the site is a very ancient 
 one ; but the present adornment of the caves with the cus- 
 tomary images and paintings is attributed to Kings Kirti Sri 
 and Rajadhi Raja Sinha who endowed the zciharc with lands 
 towards the latter part of the eighteenth century. 
 
 Having spent the night at Teldeniya we now set out upon .\hiiama- 
 a day's trip to Medamahanuwara, Bomure and Urugala to '"*""''"'''' 
 visit the site of the " middle great city " (which is the literal 
 meaning of the somewhat cumbersome name Medamahanu- 
 wara), the place where the last king of Kandy was captured 
 and to enjoy the mountain air and beautiful landscape. We 
 are on the ancient highway from Kandy to the famous city 
 of pilgrimage, .Alutnuwara in the Bintenne countrv, which, 
 as we have previously observed, is now chiefly noted for game 
 and as the habitat of a miserable remnant of wild men of the 
 aboriginal race ; but its past has been renowned above all 
 other places in Ceylon. It was the most sacred city and was 
 closely connected with Buddha in the earliest history of the 
 country. For 2,500 years has its shrine been worshipped, a 
 long line of kings being amongst its pilgrims and its bene- 
 factors. It is only natural then that upon this ancient route 
 to three royal cities some relics are to be found. We cross 
 the Huluganga and turn at once to the right when the road 
 continues in a course parallel with the river for two miles, 
 when we arrive at the scene depicted by plate 355. Here 
 the Huluganga joins the Galmaloya at a rcmarkablv beautiful 
 spot. The road now follows the right bank of the latter river 
 for about two and a half miles, when we arri\e at a bridge 
 where we must leave our carriage and proceed up the river 
 by a footpath, if we would visit the site of the palace beneath 
 the shadow of Medamahainnvara which was the halting place
 
 414 TIIK BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Dumbura ol the kiti^s of Kaiicly upon their journeys to Bintenne. The 
 Maitima- remains now to be seen are few and comprise only portions 
 
 hanmcwa ^^j ^|^^^ walled terraccs which are now in the midst of paddy 
 fields, 'i'here remains however a fine old tamarind tree which 
 stood in the palace grounds (Plate 556) and in the river below 
 a pretty dell embowered in foliage where the river forms a 
 natural bathing place is known as the king's bath. From 
 information communicated to Mr. J. H. F. Hamilton of the 
 Ceylon Ci\il Service by a headman of I'rugala who remem- 
 bered the palace before it fell into ruin, we gather that " the 
 plan of the palace buildings was rectangular. They faced the 
 south, and were approached from that quarter by two broad 
 stairs comprising seventeen stone steps. At the foot of the 
 upper flight, and surrounding the palace proper, stood the 
 straw-thatched lines of the king's guards. The steps con- 
 ducted to an open space, which formed a compound running 
 round the four sides of the main central building between it 
 and the lines of the guards. From the compound there rose 
 another and smaller flight of stone steps conducting to the 
 verandah of the central edifice and its principal entrance. The 
 three stairs are in a line Avith one another, and stand immedi- 
 ately in the front and centre of the southern side of the 
 palace. A verandah supported by carved wooden pillars en- 
 compassed the central building, which was the palace proper, 
 the quarters of the king. The walls of the main building 
 were of chiselled stone, and the roof was covered with tiles, 
 and rose on the four sides to a central ridge running east and 
 west. ' ' 
 
 The foundation of the city of Medamahanuwara, all traces 
 of which are now fast disappearing, is believed to have been 
 at the end of the sixteenth century; but it is more than 
 probable that it was a place of importance in far more ancient 
 times. It was often a city of refuge during times of internal 
 dissension, and it assumed this character when the British 
 took permanent possession of Kandy in 1815; for it was 
 hither the last king fled and upon an adjoining hill that he 
 was captured. The mountain which takes its name from the 
 city (see plate 566) was strongly fortified, and to this spot 
 the monarchs of Kandy always retired when in danger of 
 capture by the earlier European invaders. It is precipitous 
 and rises to an elevation of 4,300 feet. The ascent mav be 
 made from the south, and the reward of magnificent scenerv 
 is commensurate with the effort demanded. A large number 
 of stone cannon balls have, in quite recent times, been found 
 at the foot of the peak and about its precipitous sides. I 
 was offered one by a villager upon my visit in the vear 1907. 
 Adjoining the palace grounds was the temple once re-
 
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 560. SCENE OF THE CAPTURE OF THE LAST KING OF KANDY 
 
 o01. THE KEKUNA TREE. 
 
 362. THE SPOT ON WHICH THE LAST KING 
 OF K/>NDY WAS CAPTURED.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 417 
 
 nowned as the resting place ol the national palladium, the Dumbara 
 tooth of Buddha, before its final removal to Kandy. All that 
 is now left of it are some carved pillars and a few chiselled 
 stones used in the construction of the modern building, and 
 the old wooden door frame which we see in plate 554, now 
 doing duty as an entrance to a modern and somewhat squalid 
 ivihdre. The monks resident here are courteous and obliging 
 and will be found ready not only to assist the traveller in 
 his explorations ; but also to provide him with a delicious 
 kurumba which is usually most acceptable and refreshing 
 after the exertion of the walk. An old bo tree still survives 
 and is an object of great veneration. 
 
 We now proceed in the direction of the village of Urugala, umgaia 
 about a mile and a half above the bridge at which we halted 
 to make our detour. Here, on the right, is the picturesque 
 hamlet of Bomure, the place where the last king of Kandy, 
 W'ickrama Raja Sinha, was captured by the Malay troops 
 under the command of Lieutenant Mylius, on February i8th, 
 181 5. The spot is well known to the villagers of Urugala, 
 and it is easy to find one who is able to act as guide to it. 
 It is the nearest hill visible in plate 560, and in plate 564 it 
 is the hill to the right. There are two paths by which it 
 may be reached : a long and easy one bearing to the right 
 above the \illage of Urugala and a steep and direct one 
 below the village. If we choose the latter we descend into 
 the \ alley at the spot where our photograph (Plate 560) is 
 taken and make straight for the hill. 
 
 The oldest inhabitant of the hamlet of Bomure, who re- Bomuri 
 joices in the picturesque and musical name of Higgahapitiye- 
 gedarappu and lives in the adjoining garden from which he 
 takes his name, recollects the dwelling house of the Udupiti- 
 yagedera family, the then representative of which, .\ppurala, 
 Arachchi of Bomure, gave shelter to the king : he points out 
 the site of the house which, he says, was square and thatched 
 with grass but otherwise like a walawwa ; he can also point 
 out the site of the granary and the outbuildings, the path by 
 which the king came to this garden along a channel which, 
 coming from Medamahanuwarakanda, irrigates the field 
 below, on his way from the palace at Medamahanuwara ; the 
 route through the fields by whic^h the Malay troops arrived 
 and took up their quarters, and from which they ascended, 
 firing vollevs at the house and afterwards surrounding the 
 house of .Appurala. The old man will tell you that fifteen 
 vears ago there were still areca-nut trees in existence show- 
 ing the marks of the bullets fired by the Malays, and will 
 point out two cocoanut trees (Plate 5(>j) and a tamarind tree 
 (Plate 57JJ which were growing there at the time of the
 
 4t8 THI-: HOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 numbnra kind's capture and arc still flourishing^-. 1'hat this was the 
 Homim' actual place of the king's capture there can be no doubt. 
 
 Marshall in his account of the capture describes it as having 
 taken place in the house of a subordinate headman. That 
 headman was Appurala, and the present Korala of the sub- 
 division in which Urugala and Bomure are situated is his 
 direct descendant, being the grandson of Appurala's daughter. 
 The fact of the capture having taken place at the house of 
 his great-grandfather is well known to the Korala by tradi- 
 tion and it was verified by Mr. J. H. F. Hamilton In iS88, 
 who writes: "In 1815 Sri Wlckrama Raja Sinha made for 
 Galenuwara on the invasion of his country and occupation of 
 his capital by the British forces. Accompanied by two of 
 his wives he arrived in the evening at Udupitiyegedara, the 
 residence of Appurala, Arachchi of Bomure, situated near the 
 foot of Medamahanuwarakanda. Thence he sought to take 
 refuge In a cave on the mountain side, but being overtaken 
 by darkness and torrents of rain he missed his way, and 
 returned in sorry plight to Udupitiyegedara. Here he passed 
 the night and the next morning a party of the British having 
 come up under the guidance of the friendly chief, Ekneligoda, 
 the three royal personages were seized and stripped of their 
 jewellery and carried captives Into Kandy. " 
 ,T/'/';"'A'""^ There is a Sinhalese account of the occurrence purporting 
 
 to be written by an eye witness who acted as interpreter to 
 the British troops. It has been translated by Mr. T. B. 
 Pohath and published in Journal No. 47 of the local branch 
 of the Royal Asiatic Society. If true it goes far to prove 
 how bitter was the feeling of the Kandyan chiefs themselves 
 against the tyrant, a circumstance which contributed in no 
 small degree to the success of the enterprise which the 
 Governor General, Sir Robert Brownrlgg, stated "could not 
 with any commonplace prudence have been entered upon, 
 except with the most credible assurances of the concurring 
 wishes of the chiefs and people, nor could ever have been 
 brought to a successful Issue without their acquiescence and 
 aid." The interpreter's account states that the eight hundred 
 members of the expedition encamped at Teldenlva. The heat 
 of the camp being great he and the chief Ekneligoda walked 
 out for some distance followed by a party of Sabaragamuwa 
 men, when they saw a lad of about twelve running across a 
 field. He being pursued and overtaken, in great terror ex- 
 claimed, " O lords, don't kill me; I will lead vou to the hiding 
 place of the great god " (meaning the king). Thev were 
 preceded by the boy, whom Ekneligoda secured bv a creeper 
 tied around his waist. They had not proceeded far when the 
 boy pointed out an enormous nuga tree saving, "There, 
 
 o/tlw king
 
 ^UDY FIELDS Ai UHUoa
 
 5G5. THE SLEEPING WARRIOR. 
 
 5G8. MEOAMAHANUWARA. 
 
 ROAD SCENE NEAR MA: 
 
 V.EV; FROM MADUGODA. 
 
 569. VIEW NEAR MADUGODA. 
 
 570. SCENE UPON BOMUBE HILt. 
 
 571 VIEW FROM BOMURE HILL. 
 
 572. THE OLD TAMARIND THEE ON THE SPOT WHERE 
 THE LAST KING WAS CAPTURED.
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVLON 421 
 
 yonder tree is situated above the palace occupied by the Dumbara 
 great god." On approaching the place they sa\\- a couple of riucatimc 
 waiting maids who barricaded the door. .\ sentinel was "^"" '"*■ 
 seen patrolling the compound lance in hand. He inquired : 
 "Halloa Ekneligoda, where arc you going?" and just as 
 the latter replied, " We too have come here," the spear of 
 the sentinel hurtled past Ekneligoda. The party then fell 
 upon the sentinel and bore him forcibly away. Ekneligoda 
 bade the king unbolt the door which his majesty declined. 
 The king w^as then requested to throw out any weapons that 
 he might have inside; upon which three silver mounted rifles 
 and a couple of daggers were thrown through an opening ; 
 but his majesty's golden sword was refused. The door was 
 then burst open with wooden mortars. The Sabaragamuwa 
 men forced their way into the house, divested the queens of 
 their jewellery and most of their clothing and cast them out 
 clad only in rude pieces of cloth. While the two poor queens 
 were staggering about in grief at the indignities forced upon 
 them the interpreter bade them not be afraid, but come to 
 him for protection. They fell upon his shoulders, when he dis- 
 covered that their ears were shockingly torn and streaming with 
 blood from the wounds caused by wrenching away the gems 
 they had worn. He proceeds: " I got Imbulanwe'la Arachchi 
 to fetch some medicinal leaves, and pounding them to a pulp 
 applied it to staunch the bleeding. A little while after Ekneli- 
 goda forced the king out of the house and behaved very 
 insolently towards him, addressing him with such contemp- 
 tuous phrases as ' Come, fellow, let me take vou to vour 
 father ' (meaning the English). Whereupon the king said, 
 ' If you want to kill me, kill me, or do anvthing else you 
 please, but I cannot go on foot.' \\'hile ICkndigoda was pre- 
 paring to tie up the king, saying, ' Fetch kiriudi creepers to 
 tie up this fellow and take him like a hog,' I addressed him 
 saying, ' Nilame, you Kandyans have been up to this hour 
 reverencing the king in such humiliating forms as worshipping 
 and prostrating yourselves before him and calling him bv such 
 venerable appellations as "O god," "O lord,"' " O father," 
 but as we, from the time of our forefathers, have been the sub- 
 jects of foreign powers,* we do not owe anv allegiance to his 
 majesty. He is your god, your lord, and your father. Instead 
 of conveying his majesty respectfully, it is not right on vour 
 part to show him such indignity as you are doing bv'this 
 dishonourable treatment.'" Ekneligoda is said to liav'e per- 
 sisted in his brutal treatment of the king, when the inter- 
 
 * The interpreter, D. V. .'\. Dias, who is said to have been present and to 
 have written this account, was a Mudaliyar of the maritime provinces whose 
 ancestors had sworn allegiance to the Dutch.
 
 422 THI-: HOOK OF CFYLON 
 
 Dumburu pi'ctcr wrotc and despatched a hurried note to Sir John 
 riuniMiin |)'0)1\, the political ollicer in charg^e, to acquaint him with 
 ofthckvin ^(^^ indignities to which the king was being subjected. Soon 
 a British force arrived under Colonels Hardy and Hooke, who 
 dismissed the offending Kandyans, dismounted their horses, 
 remoxed their hats, saluted his majesty, untied his bonds and 
 sought to console him. The king and his two queens were 
 provided with white clothes, placed in palanquins, and escorted 
 by the two colonels mounted and with drawn swords, attended 
 by the other othcers and fifty mounted orderlies and a company 
 of English troops, were conducted with every mark of honour 
 and respect to Sir John D'Oyly's camp. Sir John accorded 
 them a courteous reception and having comfortably lodged 
 them despatched the following; letter to the (iovernor, which 
 is not quite in accord with the interpreter's account; but has 
 nothing at variance with the main facts. 
 
 " I have the sincerest joy in reporting to your Excellency 
 that the object of your anxious wishes is accomplished, and 
 the King of Kandy a captive in our hands. He was sur- 
 rounded yesterday by the people of Dumbara, in conjunction 
 with some armed Kandyans sent by the Adig'ar, in the pre- 
 cincts of Medamahanuwara, and taken about an hour before 
 dusk in the house of Udupitiye Arachchi at Galehewatte, a 
 mile beyond Medamahanuwara, with two of his queens. A 
 few attendants, after the house was surrounded, made a show 
 of resistance and wounded two or three men, but fled after 
 a few shots from the assailants. I went forward with palan- 
 quins, to meet him at Rambukwella, and have conducted him 
 to this place with his queens, from whence after rest and 
 refreshments they will be sent to Kandy under a sufficient 
 military guard. The king's mother and two more of his 
 queens are at Hanwella, and a detachment will be sent 
 immediately to conduct him in safety and to secure from 
 plunder any treasure and valuable which may be found. I 
 have written olas to be sent to the king's relations and 
 Xayakkars, informing them of these events, and inviting them 
 to come without fear." 
 
 The dethroned king was deported to \'ellore in Southern 
 India, where he died in 1832. 
 
 A few of the details of this story do not admit of clear 
 proof, particularly those of the indignities suffered by the 
 king at the hands of his exasperated subjects. It must how- 
 ever be borne in mind that the adherents of Ehelapola, to 
 whom the credit of capturing the king was mainlv due, were 
 not likely to behave with g;entleness and courtesv towards 
 the tyrant who had recently murdered their chief's wife and 
 children with atrocious barbarity.
 
 573. MEDAIVIAHANUWARAKANDA. 
 
 574. TERRACED PADDY FIELDS FROM THE OmCIALs BUNGALOW 
 AT URUGALA.
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVLON 425 
 
 No apology is I trust needed for the Introduction into Dumbara 
 these pages of some particulars of this last phase of the oldest riu dynasty 
 dynasty in the world, which through many vicissitudes had 
 endured for upwards of two thousand years. The traveller 
 wlio \isits the spot where under the shadow of the noble 
 tamarind tree, still there, the final scene was enacted, with 
 the whilom greatness of the Sinhalese nation in mind, will 
 take a pathetic interest in the humble aspect of the deserted 
 mountain garden where the longest line of monarchs in the 
 world (-ame to an end, and Britain entered upon its task of 
 regenerating the nation that had so long suffered under the 
 misrule of the tyrant. 
 
 Plates 575, 576, 577, and 57S show the villages of L'pper 
 Dumbara in full dress, festooned and bedecked to the lull 
 extent that the modest resources of the inhabitants permit, 
 as a mark of respect to authority; for the Government agent 
 is "on circuit. " 
 
 At Urugala a neat little bungalow for the use of visiting cugalu 
 oflicials commands the \ iew given in plate 574, \\here we 
 see a number of little homesteads marked by clumps of 
 palms upon the terraced hillsides. The scenery depicted here 
 and in i)lates 564 and 517 is c-haracteristic of a large stretc-h 
 of country around L'rugala. The \iew of terraced jiaddy 
 fields given in plate 517 was taken about a mile biyond 
 Ih'ugala on the road to .Madugoda. It is, I think, the best 
 view of the kind to be obtained in Ceylon. It should be 
 boine ill mind, however, that whereas the photograph of an 
 Oiienlal \ illage scene gains by its reproduction of the form 
 to the e\<]usi()n of the air of squalor of the reality, the 
 camera is at the greatest disadvantage in an extcnsixe land- 
 scape, losing its most beautiful elTe(-ts without an\- compensa- 
 tion. 
 
 Madugoda, situated on the eastern border of the central M'ulunoila 
 province, twelve miles beyond l'rugala, possesses no features 
 of special interest to the traveller unless he should take this 
 route to Alutnuwara, when it will be con\-eiiient to make use 
 of Madugoda rest-house which we illustrate' in ])late 55S. 
 
 In plate 559 the Ratemahatmaya of this dixision is seen 
 ujion tlie road, returning from an oHicial A"isit. 
 
 Amongst the curious and primitive opi-rations which the The kikmia 
 \isitor ma\ notice in the \illages ol Upper Dumbara is that 
 of exii-ai-ting oil iVoni tlu' kekuna nut. All tra\ellers arc 
 struck with the beautiful appearance ol the kekuna tree which 
 is one of the chief ornaments of the Kandvan forest. Its 
 leaves under strong light haxc the curious propertv of a 
 glistening white appearance on the uppei' surface, those that 
 are most exposed being the most daz/ling ; while the leaves 
 2 C
 
 426 
 
 Tin-: 1U)()K 01-' CEYLON 
 
 Dumbara 
 
 I hi kikiiiiii 
 
 /.(VSS 
 
 Kandyan 
 ihveltings 
 
 Mahaiya\\'a 
 
 1, 7 J6 flit 
 
 Katugastota 
 
 1,531 feet 
 
 under shade arc of an olive green. Thus the distant effect to 
 the beholder is a mass of mixed green and white foliage; but 
 on approaching the tree the white leaves appear to change 
 and upon gathering them we find that the whiteness has 
 disaiipiarcd. 'ihe tree yields an abundance of nuts in appear- 
 ance like the green pod of the walnut. I'Vom these the native 
 extracts oil for lighting purposes. In j)latc 579 we see the 
 press by which the oil is obtained. The nuts are wrapped 
 in an areca leaf and placed in the opening between the two 
 upright blocks of the press. The woman, as in our illustra- 
 tion, ilub in hand, then strikes the wedges which arc seen at 
 the top, causing the blocks to close up and squeeze the nuts, 
 the oil from which drips into the lower fold of the areca leaf 
 and from that into the pot or chattie placed upon the ground. 
 If we enter one of these modest Kandyan dwellings we 
 shall discover that it is a quadrangular building having a tiny 
 courtyard in the middle and an inner verandah on all sides, 
 with several doors from the verandah leading to diminutive 
 rooms. Of furniture there is practically none, a few mats 
 serving all requirements, but we notice a little block of wood 
 about fourteen inches long by five deep, and our inquiry as 
 to the use of this elicits the following interesting information. 
 A low-caste man coming to the house is given rice on a leaf 
 placed upon a flat tray of plaited palm leaf and he sits on 
 the ground; but a vellala or high-caste man, however poor 
 he may be, is offered the block of wood as a seat, and his 
 rice is placed on a curious little table of plaited palm leaf, 
 about a foot high and having a somewhat concave surface 
 like a saucer. Even in this lowly dwelling the strictest atten- 
 tion is paid to the rules of etiquette and to the formalities 
 that surround Eastern hospitality. 
 
 While still making Kandy our headquarters an interesting 
 excursion may be made to Matale, Dambulla and Sigiri. 
 
 In the railway system the Matale line begins at Pera- 
 deniya Junction, Kandy being served by it. The distances 
 of the stations given in the following itinerary are therefore 
 reckoned from Peradeniya Junction. 
 
 Mahaivawa (4m. 7u\). — This station as will be seen from 
 our map is practically in Kandy itself, being only one mile 
 from Kandy station. 
 
 Katugastota (7m. 25c.). — Katugastota (three and a half 
 miles north of Kandy) is a picturesque and flourishing suburb 
 of Kandy situated on the Mahaweliganga at the point where 
 the Matale carriage road crosses it by an iron bridge from 
 which our view (Plate 580) is taken. ^It is much frequented
 
 579. THE KEKUNA PRESS. 
 
 080. THE MAHAWELIGANGA AT KATUGASTOTA,
 
 581. SCENE NEAR UKUWELLA. 
 
 582. ETTAPOLLA AND ASGERIA FROM SYTSON.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 429 
 
 by visitors who have no time to make more distant excursions. KatuRastota 
 One of the attractions consists of a considerable stud of 
 elephants belonjj;^ing- to the Kandyan chief Dunuwilla whose 
 wcilaiviva is on the bank of the river. They frequently enj^ai^e 
 in river sports under the direction of their keepers to the 
 amusement and delight of passengers \\ho pay a flying visit 
 to the mountain capital. 
 
 Wattecama (iim. 33c.). — Wattegama is famous for its Wattejrama 
 flourishing cacao and tea estates which contribute considerable '/>-o.n'i 
 freight to the railway, amounting to no less than a thousand 
 tons of cacao and eight million pounds of tea per annum, 
 'ihe \illage is provided with a rest-house containing four bed- 
 rooms ; and it is generally possible to hire a carriage and 
 pair of horses at the rate of one rupee per mile. Hackeries 
 are always available. There is a tradition that King Xareiida 
 Sinha fled to this village when attacked by the Dutch and 
 that a resident of the village named Wattegama Rala was 
 reluctant to afford him protection, for whi(Mi offenc^e against 
 llie laws of li()spil;ilit\- llie king alterwartls punished the 
 whole \'illage. 
 
 Near the station a road connects Wattegama with the 
 Panwila road. It is tlie station for thi' districts of I'anwila, 
 Hunasgiriva, Madulkclc, Kclcbokka and Kiunklcs. 
 
 L'ki \\ 1,1.1 A (17m. •^2c). — I'kuwclla is a small \ illage about Ukuwella 
 threi' miles to the south of Matale. The railwav station that '<-'•'-]"' 
 takes its name from the \illage serves a large number of 
 important estates including Syston from which our photo- 
 graphs (Plates 5 and 582) were taken. l^'rom the Ik ights 
 of Syston, famous alike for the high qualit\- of its rubber, 
 its tea and its magnificent prospects (the word is applicable 
 both to its rubber undertaking and its commanding \iews 
 of the country round), we can see right a\\a\- to Adam's 
 Teak, a stretch of country which no photograph i-ould repre- 
 sent; but which at dawn on a clear morning is most distinct 
 to the eye. .\t other times the lovely form of the drifting 
 mists provides an almost equally (-harming specta( Ic it will 
 be seen from plate 582 that at Syston we are not far distant 
 from the two mountains which are so prominent in the distant 
 landscape from Kandw That on the left or west side is 
 h!!ttapolla and the one to the east is Asgcria. 
 
 I'kuwella is the station for Barber's Ceylon Cacao works 
 which is the only factory of its kind in the colonv. 
 
 M \ tali': (jim. 9c.). M;ital(' is llir tciiniiuis of this branch .Matalc 
 of the broad gauge railway. It is a place of considerable '•-t'*A«"' 
 inijiortance as the chief town of a large planting district (-on-
 
 430 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Mdtaie taiii'iiig iicail) a thousand square miles, the most northerly 
 
 in which Eurojjcans have opened up estates; it is under an 
 Assistant Government Agent, and is divided into three sub- 
 divisions, Matale South, East and North, each under a Rate- 
 ma hat may a. 
 
 The icsi-iwiisc Upon arrival we find a comfortable rest-house fitted with 
 
 every convenience for the traveller and well provisioned. 
 Bath and breakfast are the first consideration, after which 
 we walk leisurely through the town, which contains one of 
 
 The bazaar the largest purely native bazaars in Ceylon, extending for 
 almost a mile in one long street shaded by a fine avenue of 
 rain trees, so called from the circumstance that at night the 
 leaves fold into a kind of sack in which the moisture con- 
 denses and at sunrise when the leaves open is discharged in 
 quite a shower. Here are to be seen the necessaries and 
 luxuries for the supply of the native community throughout 
 the large and important planting district of which Matale is 
 the centre. All the shops are after the fashion of open stalls, 
 and the traders, their goods and transactions, from one end 
 of the street to the other, are open to the gaze of passers-by. 
 The barber, the tinker, the merchant of gay-coloured cloths, 
 and the curry-stuff vendor, are all doing a roaring trade. 
 The mellifluous tones of Ramasamy's voice are unceasing, and 
 the stranger will not fail to be struck with surprise at the 
 inordinate amount of talking required by every trifling bar- 
 gain. Some quaint workshops are to be found here. Ivory 
 carving, and the elaborate chasing of ceremonial swords, 
 such as were worn at the Kandyan state ceremonies and are 
 still part of the official uniform of native chiefs holding office 
 under the British Government, are still executed here. There 
 is also a very pretty and dainty industry carried on in the 
 weaving of grass matting for the covering of couches and chairs. 
 
 Sff)if>v 0/ The scenery has the same characteristics as the Kandyan 
 
 district, and is especially beautiful in its wealth and variety 
 of tropical foliage. The hills rise to an altitude of five thou- 
 sand feet, and are wooded to the summits, save where clear- 
 ings have been made for the cultivation of coffee, cacao, and 
 tea ; they exhibit fine specimens of some of the most remark- 
 able trees in Ceylon, including many iron-wood trees, with 
 crimson-tipped foliage and delicate flowers. The northern 
 division of Matale reaches to Nalanda, the first coaching 
 stage on the main road to the famous rock temples of Dam- 
 bulla ; so that the large number of visitors who now journey 
 to Dambulla pass through the heart of this district and see 
 the fine tea, cacao and rubber estates for which it is famous. 
 Their total extent is about sixty thousand acres, of which 
 nearly half is cultivated. The elevation being from 1,200 to 
 
 MdtaU
 
 383. THE KA:.. 
 
 584. PEPPER GROVE IN THt iViATAlc 
 
 u I ■^ I r-i 1 1^
 
 585. THE RATEMAHATMAYA'S ELEPHANTS. 
 
 586. FRESCOES AT THE ALUWIHARE.
 
 THI-: r>ooK OF ci-:vLox 433 
 
 4,000 feet, mixed planting is popular ; and \vc find, in Matale 
 addition to tea and cacao, cardamoms, cocoanuts, areca nuts, 
 annatto, kola, rubber, cinchona, vanilla, pepper, sapan, and 
 sago. There are thousands ot acres ol rich forest which 
 contains much ebony, satinwood, halmilla, and palu. 
 
 Of climate, scenery, and products Matale affords great 
 variety. It has its lowlands, with their cocoanut, vanilla and 
 cacao groves, and the warm glow of tropical sunshine ; hills 
 of moderate elevation, in some parts cultivated, in others wild 
 and forest-clad ; lofty mountains, with their cool and in- 
 vigorating atmosphere so inviting to Europeans ; and to the 
 north it stretches away in spurs which gradually decrease 
 amidst a vast wilderness of forest and scrub, the haunt of 
 the elephant, leopard, buffalo and bear. Big game is to be 
 found in proximity to estates, and is still more plentiful a 
 day's march to the north. Sambur, barking deer, and pig sport 
 afford good hunting ; while the leopard, bear, and buffalo are 
 available as victims for the sportsman's gun. Few planting 
 districts can boast of sporting grounds at once so good and 
 so accessible. The subject of sport in Ceylon has been ad- 
 mirably dealt with by a resident in this district, Mr. Harrv 
 Storey, in his book published this year (1907), entitled 
 " Hunting and Shooting in Ceylon." Fort MacDowall to 
 wliiih \\c ha\X' prc\i()usl\- I'cfcrrt'd was built on the hill of 
 Ilikgolla where the present iMiglish church stands. 
 
 But .Miitale has also its antiquarian interest, for here is AiuwUmrd 
 situated the ancient rock temple Aluwihare, which claims our 
 attention both as an extremely picturesque spot and one to 
 whi(-h is attached considerable literary interest. We proceed 
 for two miles past the town upon the Matale-.\nuradlKipur;i 
 road, then turn asidi- to the left following a jungle path till 
 we come upon a llight of stone stcj)s w hic-h lead to what 
 appears to ha\-e been originally a (-left in the rock (IMate S'^/)- 
 On the left side runs a \-erandah, a modern tiled erection, which 
 conceals the entrance to a cavern sacred as the scene of King 
 W'alagambahu's conxciUion of monks in the first centurv h.c, 
 at which were transcribed the sayings of Buddha hitherto pre- 
 served only by tradition. The object of the convention was, 
 however, not confined to tlu- mere committal to writing of the 
 master's words, but had in view also the provision of means of 
 combating the heresy of the .\bhayagiriya fraternitv, whi(-h, as 
 we shall explain later, was then causing sirious trouble at 
 Anur:idh;ipur;i. 
 
 To the enlightened Buddhist this secluded and compara- 
 ti\(]y unpretending ca\( in must b ■ of inlinitclv greater interest 
 tlian the 'i'empic of tiic Toolh or the Thuparama itself. 
 
 I'rotcctcd by llie \crandah and painted on the exterior of
 
 434 'i'HK HOOK Ob' CKYLON 
 
 Miituie tin- rock arc sonic interesting frescoes (Plate 58^)} with a striking 
 
 reseinl)lance in idea as well as in execution to the rude media.'val 
 illustrations ol the punishments awaiting the impif)us in a 
 luture state. Such representations are found in most Buddhist 
 temples. 
 
 Dainbuiia 'I'he traveller who wishes to visit the rock temples of 
 
 Dambulla and the ancient rock fortress of Sigiri should either 
 engage a motor car at Kandy or a waggonette and pair of 
 horses which can be hired either in Kandy or Matale. The 
 first stage of the journey reaches Nalanda fourteen and a half 
 miles from Matale. Here will be found a good rest-house, 
 standing in picturesque grounds and embowered in remark- 
 ably fine tamarind trees. It is neatly furnished and comfort- 
 able, and will serve as a convenient halting place for refresh- 
 ment. Upon leaving Nalandd we shall notice that habitations 
 become less frequent and dense forest begins to take the place 
 of cultivated lands. Dambulla is reached at the twenty-ninth 
 mile from Matale. The village consists of a double row of 
 mud huts, which do duty as native shops, and extends for 
 about two hundred yards at the foot of a solitary mass of 
 rock which rises from the plain to a height of about five 
 hundred feet and is about a mile in circumference. Near the 
 summit is a series of five caverns which in their natural state 
 were selected as hiding places by King Walagambahu upon 
 his being driven by the Tamils from his throne at Anuradha- 
 pura in the first century B.C. After fifteen years of exile he 
 regained his throne, and in gratitude for the protection they 
 had afforded him, transformed them into temples. 
 
 Kock iciiii>Us These caverns are entered from a ledge near the summit 
 
 of a huge boulder of dark gneiss five hundred feet high and 
 two thousand in length. The ascent is made by a steep but 
 picturesque stairway cut in the natural rock. At the top of 
 this rock bursts into view a landscape that apart from the 
 interest of the temples would well repay a more toilsome 
 climb. Ranges of mountains stretch away over the Kandyan 
 province in the dim grey distance ; the rock of Sigiri rises 
 in solitary grandeur from the dense forest to the east ; and 
 Ijcneath us lie the rice fields granted by the ancient kings as 
 the endowment of the temples. 
 
 Plate 588 gives some idea of the formation of the ledge 
 and overhanging rock above the entrances to the caves. It 
 is, however, difficult to get any photograph owing to the 
 short distance which it is possible to recede. This ledge 
 where we see four monks standing extends only to the tree 
 on the left and ends in a precipice. Wc see the rude en- 
 trances to the caves on the right. Thev are. of course, 
 modern, and like all attempts at restoration in this period are
 
 587. THE ALUWIHARt
 
 588. ROCK TEMPLES AT DAMBULLA.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 437 
 
 totally out of character with the phice. l^ut the scene pre- Dambulla 
 sented on entering is imposing, though weird and grotesque, z^"'^- '""r''S 
 We notice at once a strange mixture of Brahman and Buddliist 
 images and pictures. Here is \'ishnu in wood standing oppo- 
 site to a colossal recumbent figure of Buddha forty-seven feet 
 long and carved out of the solid rock. As soon as the eye 
 gets accustomed to the dim religious light we notice that the 
 walls arc highly ornamented, and we learn from the monks 
 that some of the frescoes are nearly two thousand years old. 
 
 In another compartment called the Maha \'ihara there is 
 a statue of King W'alagambahu, and upwards of iiftv others 
 mostly larger tlian life size, many being images of Buddha, 
 though Hindu deities are not neglected. This (■a\'e is the 
 largest and grandest of all. It is about one hundred and 
 sixty by fifty feet, and at the entrance twenty-three feet high, 
 the roof sloping gradually down as we go further into the 
 chamber till at the back its height is but four feet. The 
 student who is interested in the relation between Buddhism 
 and Hinduism will remark a very curious blending of the 
 svmbols of botli in the frescoes with which the walls and 
 ceilings are literally covered. Not less notic-eable are many 
 historical scenes, among them the famous combat between 
 King Dutthagamini and the Tamil prince Elara, to which wc 
 shall again refer later. Tlure are Ijesides many ([U.iint repre- 
 sentations of earlier events, amongst which the most curious 
 is perhaps the landing of the Sinhalese under Prince W'ijavo 
 B.C. 543. The size of the fish who are popping up their heads 
 above the waves and menacing the ships is that affected b\- 
 all the ancient hydrographers. 
 
 The other two chambers are of the same shape though 
 smaller, and arc furnished with a plentiful supply of obji'cts 
 of worship, troni the usual cN'clopean monolithic Butklhas to 
 smaller images of the Hindu deities. 
 
 I'"ew visitors enter these caverns without being greatlv 
 impressed by the strange and eerie feeling which seems to 
 increase as the eyes get more accustomed to tiie dimness, 
 while some are unable to rid themsehcs of tlic haunting 
 memor\' of the uncannv vision. 
 
 Thcic arc in.nu interesting inscriptions on the l)are face 
 ol the rock, one of which is an ordinance that wlien absolute 
 grants of land are made such dispositions shall not be re- 
 corded on palm lca\es, which arc liable to be destro\ed, but 
 shall be engra\t'(l upon plates of copper, to be imperishable 
 through all ages. This ordinance is attributed to the great 
 I'arakrama, and it sometimes happens e\en now that a co|")per 
 title-deed figures in the law courts of ("oioinbo as e\ idi'nce in 
 disputed cases of ownership.
 
 4;vM I'lII': I'.OOK OI" CKYLON 
 
 .sijfiri .\l I );im!)iill;i llicrc is a spacious and coniforlablc rest- 
 
 Iiousc u lure uc shall liiid it convenient to put uj) lor the 
 ni,i;ht and equip ourselves with information about Sig^iri, 
 wiiither we should proceed at dawn. There is excellent accom- 
 modation lor the traveller at the rest-house quite near the rock. 
 
 A'dMd/'d The historic interest which attaches to this lonely crag 
 
 cenlris in the story of the parricide King Kasyapa, who, after 
 deprixing his father Dhatu Sen of his throne and life, sought 
 security by converting this rock into an impregnable fortress. 
 Although it has been said that vSigiri was a stronghold in 
 prehistoric times, we have no account of it earlier than the 
 time of Kasyapa, the particulars of whose reign related in 
 the Mahawansa are considered specially reliable as being 
 written by the Buddhist monk Mahanamo, an eye witness of 
 the troublous times that he describes. It is, moreover, the only 
 contemporary account of Sigiri that has come to light. 
 
 Acinisiii Wg cannot, therefore, more effectuallv stimulate our 
 
 the tragedy . . , . ' i i i r i i ^ • . 
 
 mtcrest in this remarkable fortress than by recounting the 
 story of outrage and cruelty which led to its adoption as a 
 royal residence and its adaptation as a tower of defence. 
 The actors in this tragedy, so thoroughly illustrative of the 
 fiendish cruelty native to the Sinhalese princes of that age, 
 were King Dhatu Sen, who ascended the throne a.d. 463 ; his 
 two sons Kasyapa and Moggallana ; his only daughter; his 
 uncle and our chronicler Mahanamo ; and his nephew who was 
 his commander-in-chief. 
 Dhatu Sen Dhatu Sen, who was a scion of the line royal, had during 
 
 his youth lived in retirement in consequence of the supremacy 
 of the Tamil usurpers during the period from a d. 434 to a.d. 
 459. Educated by Mahanamo he entered the priesthood, but 
 upon reaching man's estate the oppression of the alien rulers, 
 their devastation of the temples, and the prospect of a mixed 
 and hybrid race, called him from a life of contemplation. 
 Believing that his country was in danger of being lost for 
 ever to the Sinhalese, he resolved upon a desperate effort to 
 recover the throne. In this he eventually succeeded, and after 
 the complete extermination of the invaders he applied himself 
 to re-establish peace throughout the island and to restore the 
 old religion to its former pre-eminence. Those of the nobles 
 who had during the usurpation formed alliances with the 
 Tamils were degraded to the position of serfs on their own 
 land, but all who had remained steadfast in their devotion to 
 their country were called to honour, and more especiallv the 
 companions of his adversities. 
 
 He now applied himself as vigorously to the arts of peace 
 as he had to those of war. He founded hospitals for the halt 
 and sick, constructed a large number of reservoirs in districts
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 439 
 
 that had long been neglected, founded many new monasteries, Sigiri 
 restored and re-decorated all the chief religious edilices, 
 de\oting his private treasures and his large store of jewels 
 to the re-adornment of statues that had been desecrated and 
 despoiled. " Who can describe in detail all the good deeds 
 that he has done? " says the Mahawansa. 
 
 We learn, however, that these great virtues were counter- Dhatu Scus 
 balanced to some extent by a disposition to cruel revenge. ''"""■>■ 
 We are told that having an only daughter, dear to him as his 
 own life, he gave her in marriage to the commander-in-chief of 
 his army. 1 he marriage was not happy, and it soon reached 
 the king's cars that his daughter had been ignominiously and 
 undeservedly flogged by her husband. Dhatu Sen thereupon 
 ordered the culprit's mother to be stripped and put to death 
 with great cruelty. Hut this barbarous act soon brought its 
 retribution. The son-in-law was now the aggrieved person 
 and at once conspired to dethrone the king. This he accom- 
 plished by the corruption of Kasyapa. The people were 
 gained over and the king seized and cast into chains. In vain 
 Moggallana endeavoured to oppose his brother's treachery; 
 he could only seek refuge in flight to India. The next move tiu revenge 
 of the outraged son-in-law was to persuade Kasyapa that his 
 father had hidden his treasures with intent to bestow them 
 on Moggallana. Kasyapa thereupon sent messengers to his 
 father who was in prison to demand of him where the trea- 
 sures were concealed. Dhatu Sen saw in this a plot against 
 his life, and resigning himself to his fate said : "It is as 
 well that I should die after that I have seen my old friend 
 Mahanamo once more and washed myself in the waters of 
 Kalawewa. "* He then told the messengers that if Kasyapa 
 would allow him to be taken to Kalawewa he could point out 
 his treasures. Kasyapa, delighted at the prospect, sent the 
 messengers back to his father with a chariot for his convey- 
 ance to Kalawewa. While on the journey the ill-fated king 
 ate rice with the charioteer, who showed great compassion 
 for him. 
 
 Upon arri\ing at Kalawewa he derived great solace from 
 the interview with his old friend Mahanamo. He bathed in 
 the great reservoir and drank of its waters; then pointing to 
 his friend Mahanamo and to the waters around turned to his 
 guards and said : " These are all the treasures that I possess." 
 When they heard these words they were filled with wrath and 
 immediately conveyed him back to his son Kasvapa who, 
 handing him over to the chief of the army, ordered his execu- 
 tion. He was now doomed to suffer the worst death that 
 
 * An immense artificial lake for irrigation and the greatest work of this 
 monarch.
 
 440 'ini'] HOOK Ol" Cl":VLOX 
 
 -•^ik'iri liis arch-ciiciny could devise. Alter heaping insults upon him 
 
 lliis ii(.iul stri[)[)ed him naked, bound him in chains, and 
 walled up the entrance to his prison. 
 L'lnicuic Kasyapa, having thus rendered hiinsell unpopular by his 
 
 retires to crimes, and dreading an attack from his brother Moggallana, 
 '*^*" dared no longer to live openly in y\nuradhapura and retired 
 
 to Sigiri. The perpendicular sides of this rock made it im- 
 possible to climb, but Kasyapa by a clever device carried a 
 spiral gallery around it gradually rising from base to summit. 
 He next surrounded the rock with a rampart of great strength 
 within which he collected all his wealth and treasure and set 
 guards over them. He then raised a splendid palace and 
 other buildings needful for the seat of government. Here he 
 lived in great luxury. But in spite of all distractions he soon 
 began to repent of the crimes which had placed him on the 
 throne, and in true Buddhist fashion endeavoured to escape 
 the meed of unfavourable transmigration by acts of merit 
 such as the building of monasteries and the granting of lands 
 for the support of the priesthood. Not less oppressive than 
 the dread of his next life was the fear of retribution at the 
 hands of his brother Moggallana, who at length invaded the 
 island at the head of an overwhelming force. The two armies 
 encountered each other " like two seas that had burst their 
 bounds," and in the great battle that ensued Kasyapa, on 
 coming to a deep marsh, caused his elephant to turn back 
 so that he might advance by another direction. His followers, 
 interpreting this as a sign of flight, broke in headlong rout, 
 and Kasyapa committed suicide on the field. 
 Jrom°"'^ Having thus prepared ourselves with its history, we now 
 
 Dambuita proceed to the rock itself and the remains that are still extant. 
 At daybreak we drive six miles to Inamalawa, where we branch 
 off through the jungle on foot or on horseback, the path being 
 rough for springs although practicable for a bullock-cart. 
 The path is very picturesque, and the jungle gay with birds 
 of brightest plumage and alive with wild animals. Troops of 
 monkeys are frequently seen and jackals here and there put 
 in an appearance. 
 J he remiuns \^ length after about six miles of this path we emerge 
 
 into the open and of a sudden Sigiri appears rising abruptly 
 from the plain. An artificial lake, formed under the south 
 side of the rock, helps to form a striking picture (Plate 589). 
 There are traces of massive stone walls enclosing about fifty 
 acres round the base of the rock and forming the first line 
 of fortification. Upon a nearer approach we observe that 
 terraces were formed on the slopes which lead to the per- 
 pendicular side of the rock ; they are faced with stone and 
 were doubtless constructed for purposes of defence. Here and
 
 589. SIGIRI. 
 
 JO. CARVED BOULDERS AT SIGIRI.
 
 591. ENTRANCE TO THE GALLERY. 
 
 592 WITHIN THE GALLERY. 
 
 593. VIEW SHOWING TH£ PIIESENT MtANS OF iSCiiN 
 
 594. ASCENDING TO THE FRESCOES BY THE WIRE --
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLOX 443 
 
 there hu^e boulders have been carved into fouiulaliuiis for sigiri 
 halls, and into luxurious baths (Plate 590). 
 
 We have read in the story of Kasyapa of the spiral galleries The gatiaus 
 which were carried to the summit of the rock. \Vc now see 
 in our illustrations parts of their remains. Plates 591, 592 and 
 594 show the entrance to the gallery, the wall which enclosed 
 it, and an inside view. The stairway from the terraces to 
 the gallery has quite disappeared and the latter is now reached 
 by an easy climb aided by the handrail and ladder which have 
 been aflixed. 
 
 The wall whic-h will be noticed is about nine ftet high, and 
 was built on the edge of the terrace, so that persons within 
 the gallery would have a sense of perfect safety, and, in fact, 
 would be secure from the missile of any enemy. This wall is 
 coated with chunam, a very hard cement, susceptible of a 
 polish equal to that of marble, and it retains its smooth sur- 
 face to this day although it has been exposed to the monsoons 
 of fifteen centuries. 
 
 Forty-five feet abo\e the gallery illustrated by plates 591 The frescoes 
 and 592 there is a sort of pocket or shallow cave with some 
 remarkable frescoes on its walls. They represent groups of 
 females, probably queens and their attendants, and the 
 colouring is still marvellously fresh and bright. This place 
 is accessible only Ijy means of a ladder hung on stays driven 
 into the face of the rock, but the figures and the colouring 
 can be seen very clearly by means of a field glass from the 
 terraces below. 
 
 We cannot here give all the interesting details of archi- 
 tectural remains that have been discovered by the explorations 
 of the Archaeological Commissioner of the Ceylon Government. 
 The traveller will find some astonishing remains laid bare by 
 recent excavation, and if he will take the trouble to ascend 
 to the top of the rock I)\ the aid of the protective handrails 
 now provided he will see the remains of spacious apartments, 
 flights of stairs in quartz, a carxed throne, courtvards, pas- 
 sages and inmiincrablc other signs of a rcinarkahl\- hixui'ious 
 retreat. 
 
 A visit to Sigiri results in the very agreeable feeling that 
 we have seen one of the most fascinating and romantic spots 
 that the old-world scenes of any country can afford. The 
 w'arm red tones of its cliffs, the beautifully worked quart/ stairs 
 of its ruined galleries and terraces, the picturesque lay of its 
 massive ruins, the grandeur of the forest which surrounds it, 
 and the waters of its lake, with the dark and mysterious 
 reflections amidst the lotus leaves that o'erspread the surface, 
 combine to form an impression that will never fade from the 
 mcmorv.
 
 444 ''■•"•- liOOK ()!•■ Ci:\'LO\ 
 
 Main uinc W'c iu)\v icsuiiic llu" iiiaiii liiic itinerary which \vc left at 
 
 I'eratkiiiya junction in order to \ isit Kandy and the places 
 situated on the Matalc- branch. The main line at Peradeniya 
 Junction turns ribruptly to the south and passes through the 
 \crv heart ol the greatest tea districts of this celebrated tea- 
 growing country. First we traverse a fertile and beautiful 
 valley where rice fields form a charming foreground to hills 
 that are clothed with palms in great variety and luxuriance. 
 At the eighth mile from Peradeniya Junction we reach the 
 town of (lampola, for a time the seat of Sinhalese power. 
 
 Gampola CiAMi'OLA (78m. 25C.). — As the last of the native capitals of 
 
 1, 1)7 2 Jed Ceylon before the removal of the moribund dynasty to Cotta 
 in 1410, (lampola can claim to be a place of considerable 
 interest. The city was founded in the year 1347 by King 
 l^huwaneka Bahu I\'., who reigned there for nine years. 
 nmahis Remains of that period are still to be seen at the Niyangam- 
 paya wihdre, about one mile from Gampola station and adjoin- 
 ing Mariawatte tea estate. This temple which was built by 
 Bhuwaneka Bahu upwards of five centuries ago and restored 
 by the last king of Kandy in the year 1804 still contains some 
 of the original work, the stone carving of the basement being 
 a good example of the fourteenth century work. But Gampola 
 must have been a place of note in still earlier times ; for the 
 ancient Sinhalese chronicle Mahawansa records that King 
 Wijaya Bahu visited it in the eleventh century. King W'ikrama 
 inierestine K'lj'i Sinha in the year 1804 granted a sanuas or deed engraved 
 deed of gift upon coppcr to this temple, bestowing lands upon it and ending 
 in the following terms, detailing the punishments that will wait 
 upon the sacrilegious thief : — 
 
 " His Majesty has been pleased to grant the same as if 
 uttered by the mouth of the goddess Saraswati, and he made 
 the gift at a happy time, sitting in a golden throne in the form 
 of Sakkraya at the city of Senkanda Sailabidhana Siriw^ard- 
 hanapura, which abounds with all riches ; and this samias, in 
 accordance with the order and command of his Majesty, has 
 been granted on Monday, the second day of the increasing 
 moon of the month Medindina, in the year of Saka 1726, called 
 Raktaksa. He who shall cut, break or take even a blade of 
 grass or any wood or fruit or anything belonging to Buddha 
 shall be born as a pretaya^ but anyone who shall make anv 
 offerings shall enjoy felicity in the Divvalokas and enter into 
 Xirvana. He who shall take by force anything that belongs 
 to Buddha, with intent to appropriate to himself or give it to 
 others, shall become a worm in ordure for a period of sixty 
 thousand years. ' ' 
 
 It is curious that, notwithstanding the awful nature of the
 
 595. GAMPOLA. 
 
 596. ROAD SCENE AT GAMPOLA.
 
 597. THE PEACOCK HILL FROM GAIVIPOLA. 
 
 598. GAIVIPOLA RAILWAY STATION
 
 THE ROOK OF CKVLOX 447 
 
 penalty, in the year 1907 the g-olden imai^e of Buddha, worth Main Line 
 ;^2,ooo, was stolen from this tvihdrc. The g'olden imaj^e is G.imf'niii 
 still inissini;-, and the thief has escaped liritish justice, which 
 is a matter of very trifling- moment in comparison with the 
 sixty thousand years of punishment that are in store for him. 
 
 There is a noteworthy dcivdle dedicated to Katarag-ama, the 
 god of war, and known as the Wallahag^oda dciudic, about two 
 miles from Gampola station. Its lands are said to have been 
 bestowed on it by King Parakrama Bahu in the twelfth cen- 
 tury. Its chief interest to the antiquarian is the presence in 
 its precincts of one of the stone lions from the entrance of the 
 royal palace. It is a gajasinJia or elephant lion having a 
 proboscis. 
 
 The visitor to Gampola will iind the local accommodation Local 
 g-ood both at the railway station and the rest-house which is '*"°"""° "'""» 
 quite near to it. Carriag-es, with sing-le horse or a pair, can 
 be hired at moderate rates. Jinrickshaws are also procurable. 
 
 A large number of tea estates are served by the Gampola 
 station, from which upwards of six thousand tons of tea are 
 despatched annually. To the east of the railway stretch some 
 districts that were the first to be stripped of their virgin forest 
 by the European. To the west lies the picturesque district of Doiosbage 
 Dolosbage, which lends itself admirably to pictorial treatment ; 
 but with so many claiming attention some must of necessity 
 be left with merely passing reference. The old town of Gam- 
 pola is also the railway terminus for the beautiful districts 
 of Pussellawa and Ramboddc, through which an excellent Pusseiiawa and 
 macadamised road passes, and over the heights of Xuwara '^'"" '"''''* 
 Eliya, to descend again amongst the rolling patanas and deep 
 glens of the Uva country, which we shall see later. This road 
 scales the mountain slopes by zig-zag cuttings, now on the 
 mountain side, now passing through narrow defiles, and 
 onwards upon the verge of deep abysses, beautiful everywhere, 
 in many parts enchanting, and in one, the pass abo\c Ram- 
 bodde, magnificent. 
 
 Ulapane (S2m. 75c.). — Ulapanc is a village among tea L'lapanc 
 estates, with no special attractions for the visitor. The name '•■'"('.>"' 
 is said to be derived from a Sinhalese word meaning " the 
 scene of the impalement," from the circumstance that the 
 owner of the village in the reign of Raja Sinha I. was impaled 
 for high treason. There is also a tradition that a man of this 
 village who first traced the remarkable work of irrigation 
 known as the Raja Ivla (the king's stream) which waters 
 the paddy fields of the district for twelve miles, after being 
 honoured by the king and rewarded for his skill, fell into 
 disgrace and was also impaled.
 
 44S 
 
 'II 1 1". I'.ooK c)i'" (•i:\'i.().\ 
 
 Main Line \.\\\ A 1. \ I'll n A (S^tn. 2(jc.). At \;i\\ alapitiy.'i a powerfu] 
 
 Nuwaiupitiya i-ii^inc is plac-fd ill tile rear ol the train to assist in conveying 
 ^''■"■^f"' ii up tlic steep ii;;radieiits that bo^in here and continue until \vc 
 
 reach tlic summit tunnel at an clexation of ^1,225 feet. Nawala- 
 pitiya is a hus\- lillle town of a]>out 2,500 inhabitants. Its 
 native bazaars ser\e a lari^e plantin<4' area where the Tamil 
 eooly from .southern India is chiefly employed. The f^eneral 
 characteristics of the place are therefore something- like those 
 we have met with at Matale. 
 
 Instead of a rest-house the traveller will find here quite 
 close to the station a modest but comfortable hostelry called 
 the Central Hotel. 
 
 There is nothinj^ in \awalapitiya to attract the visitor, but 
 upon leaving" it for the hig'hiands there is much to see and the 
 eye must be constantly on the alert. 
 
 We are now about to pass throuj^h the Tea Estates of 
 A mbagaimiwa Amhagamuwa, the wettest planting" district in Ceylon, having" 
 an annual rainfall of about 200 inches, or eig^ht times that of 
 London. We ascend in snake-like winding-s of every possible 
 shape, now along" the almost precipitous rock trimly cut like 
 the scarp of a fortress, now right throug"h masses of solid 
 g^neiss, and out into the open eminence again, the scene chang"- 
 ing" with every curve. At one point w'e come upon a sig"ht 
 especially interesting", but which will nevertheless elude all but 
 the expectant traveller — the entrance and exit of the Hog"'s- 
 back Tunnel. As we approach, the mountain is cleft by a 
 deep narrow ravine, which is in reality a watercourse, down 
 whose steeps rushes a torrent towards the river in the valley 
 below. Over this the train passes, affording" a grand spectacle 
 when the water, in the south-west monsoon, dashes with resist- 
 less force amongst the boulders and broken crags of the chasm, 
 above which the train seems momentarily suspended. The 
 vision lasts but a few seconds, when the tunnel heightens the 
 keen sense of wonderment with its contrast of absolute dark- 
 ness. In a few moments more the scene seems to reappear as 
 the mountain side is cleft again, and an exactly similar ravine 
 is bridged, followed by the darkness of a second tunnel. After 
 obtaining a view of the Galboda Cliff on the left wc arrive at 
 Cialboda station. 
 
 Hog's-hack 
 Tunnel 
 
 Galboda 
 
 2,JSI fed 
 
 CiALHoixv (94m. 38c.). — At Galboda the downward train 
 passes us for Colombo. Upon leaving this station we still 
 ascend in ever-winding course, and as we pass through Black- 
 water and Weweltalawa estates a grand open view is afforded 
 extending over the low country right away to the famous 
 Kelani \'alley. Even Colombo, one hundred miles away, is 
 said to be discernible from this point on a clear day.
 
 603. A RUSH FOR SEATS. 
 
 604 607 ROAD SCENES, NAWALAPITIYA TO HATTON.
 
 THE ROOK OF CRVLOX 451 
 
 Watawala (loom. 13c.). — Watawala station which serves Main i.ine 
 a large group of tea estates is now passed and the Uickoya Watawaia 
 district with its tliirtv tliousand acres of tea bushes next ^<-''-<J"' 
 appears, the railway running parallel to the road on the 
 opposite side of the valley and the Mahawelli-ganga flowing 
 between. 
 
 RozELLE (103m. 63c.). — Rozelle is another of the small Rozeiie 
 stations which exist for the convenience of the tea estates that ^■''-.'"' 
 surround them. The village is small and unattractive to the 
 visitor. 
 
 This railway journey into the tea districts is worth making Scenes on the 
 for its own sake, but even the excitement of an occasional sus- '"''"'"->' 
 pension 'twixt earth and sky over a steep ravine, the wonderful 
 dissolving views of mountain, forest, and stream, and the rapid 
 changes of climate, do not exhaust all the points of interest on 
 this remarkable line. The European traveller will notice with 
 curious interest the gangs of coolies — men, women, and chil- 
 dren — some arriving from Southern India, each carrying the 
 sum of his worldly goods, some departing from the coast to 
 return to their native land, others merely leaving one district 
 for another, but all enjoying the freedom of unrestrained con- 
 versation in their very limited \ocabulary, the subject of wages 
 and food providing the chief topics and those of paramount 
 concern. Other gangs are noticed engaged in their dailv'task 
 of plucking or pruning the hardy little tea bushes on the various 
 estates. Xor should we pass over the pretty feature of the 
 numerous bungalows, each situated upon some charming knoll 
 and surrounded by a veritable little paradise. The neat tea 
 factories, too, dotted here and there in the landscape cannot but 
 be noticed, and give the clue to the raison d'etre of the railway. 
 
 Hatton (loSm. i6c.). — Hatton is a great centre of tea dis- Hatton 
 tricts situated in Dickoya, the railway serving also the tea ■'•"'M' 
 estates of Maskeliya and Bogawantalawa, which lie farther to 
 the south. It is of special interest to the tourist as the nearest 
 point of the railway to .Xdam's Peak, a mountain of great 
 historical interest, which has allured to its heights millions of 
 the human race, the ascent of which should be accomplished In- 
 all travellers who are possessed of the necessary energy and 
 physique for the task. There is a first-class hostelry at Hatton, f-ocai 
 the .Adam's Peak Hotel, where the traveller (-an spend the night 
 and make his arrangements for the expedition. Carriages can 
 be obtained, and the manager of the hotel makes all arrange- 
 ments for the visitor. Many tourists make their plans for 
 arri\ing at the peak just before dawn, doing the steep part of 
 the (limb by torchlight or by moonlight if the occasion happens 
 
 tccomnwdntion
 
 45^ Till". r.ooK Of- (•|-:\i.()X 
 
 Main Line lo he I a \ ( )iir;il)lc ; hut those who wish to a\()i(l Iravcllinj^ in the 
 Adam's nii^ht (ail anaui^c to ani\c at sunset, takinj^^ up camping cquip- 
 *''"'* nicnt loi- the ni^ht and sleepins; on the peak. The distance 
 
 Ironi llalton as th<' ( low Hies is hut Iwehe miles, but the roads 
 and paths h\ \\lii( h \\c must li'a\cl extend to twentv-two, 
 lourteen ol which we can drixe and the remaining- eight being 
 accomphshed on loot. Only the last three miles present any- 
 thing of the nature of mountain climbing, and they are easv 
 compared to the ascent by the south-western route from Ratna- 
 pura, which, owing to its supposed greater merit, is the one 
 commonly chosen by pilgrims. The tourist, however, usually 
 proceeds from Hatton by the north-eastern route. The drive 
 takes us first through lower Dickoya to Norwood bridge, which 
 is reached at the sixth mile ; we then cross and turn sharply to 
 the right, passing into the valley of Maskeliya and reaching 
 Laxapana at the fourteenth mile, where we leave our carriage 
 at the Laxapana Hotel and prepare for the climb. 
 
 Some tourists however are sufficiently adventurous to make 
 the ascent by the pilgrim's path from the Ratnapura side, or 
 to ascend on the one side and descend on the other. I will 
 therefore here introduce a short account of the mountain routes 
 from an earlier work of my own,* which makes reference to 
 both. 
 Sacnd There is no object more familiar to the inhabitants of Ce\lon, 
 
 o/"t'it/ ' or one that makes a deeper impression upon the multitudes who 
 moiiHiain yij^Jt ^(jj- shorcs, than the lofty cone which bears the name of 
 our first parent ; and it may be said without fear of contradic- 
 tion that among all the mountains in the world invested by 
 tradition with superstitious veneration none has stirred the 
 emotions of so many of our fellow-subjects as Adam's Peak. 
 The origin of its sacred character, involved at once as it is in 
 the legendary history of several ancient religions, has been the 
 subject of considerable research and greater conjecture. 
 
 There is no doubt that the legends take their rise in the 
 mark on the summit resembling the impress of a gigantic 
 human foot. This the Buddhists devoutly worship as the 
 sacred footprint of Gautama, while the Hindoos equally claim 
 it as that of Siva, and the IMahommedans, borrowing their 
 history from the Jews, as that of Adam. Thus do the adherents 
 ot three great religions, to the number of 800,000,000 of our 
 lellow-crcatures, vie with one another in veneration of the 
 lonely Peak. As in pilgrim bands they ascend the mighty cone 
 their hearts arc moved and they regard its rugged paths as 
 steps unto Heaven. From all parts of Asia thousands annually 
 flock up the steep and rocky track, enduring privation and 
 
 * Golden Tips ; a description of Ceylon and its great Tea Industry, by 
 Henry W. Cave. M.A.. F.R.G.S. (Cassell & Co.)
 
 
 isP''-' '^^^'^^^H^^^^^^^^^^^^l 
 
 B 
 
 ^ ,^***5iBiff^^^' ""^"^^'."zv^ . 
 
 ^fiitp^^s 
 
 *f.. 
 
 
 7 I..'/ ,. 
 
 
 
 J^^.^^'iiW?^:,.-'?^; ■ ^-- ■--^. \'. 
 
 Hi 
 
 
 
 ^^?!^^t^-i'-'^--^n''- , -Ti^U' 
 
 
 
 ^^^H 
 7^^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^.. 
 
 
 612. ADAM'S PEAK.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 455 
 
 hardship for the g^ood of their souls. Some of the \ery old .Main Line 
 people of both sexes arc borne aloft upon the shoulders of their Adam's 
 stalwart sons, others strug^gle upwards unaided, until, faintini,' ^'^^^ 
 by the way, they are eonsiderately carried with all haste in 
 their swooning- condition to the summit and forced into an 
 attitude of worship at the shrine to secure the full benefits of 
 their pilgrimage before death should supervene ; others never 
 reach the top at all, but perish from cold and fatigue ; and there 
 have been many instances of pilgrims losing their lives by 
 being blown over precipices or falling from giddiness induced 
 by a thoughtless retrospect when surmounting especially dan- 
 gerous cliffs. 
 
 The European tra\ell<r, although uninlUienced by any super- 
 stition, is nevertheless aflected by the awe-inspiring prospect 
 that meets his gaze when he has reached the summit. There 
 are many mountains of greater height from whose lofty peaks 
 the eye can scan vast stretches of eternal snow, but none can 
 unfold a scene where Nature asserts herself with such im- 
 pressive effect as here. 
 
 Before describing the chief features of the summit and the 
 curious shadow phenomenon, some details of the ascent may be 
 of interest. We will first describe the pilgrim's route. 
 
 A start is made from Ratnapura, the City of Gems, in whose The route 
 vicinity are found most of the sapphires and catseyes of Ceylon. Rattiapura 
 The heat of this place is great when the sun is abroad, and 
 renders the walk through several miles of jungle land \erv 
 trying, but the path lies through such lovely vegetation that 
 the orchids, pitcher-plants, and other equally beautiful flowers 
 turn one's mind from the discomforts of the way, which to the 
 European traveller, more heavily handicapped than the native 
 by clothing, are nevertheless very real. After about eight 
 miles we begin to reach a cooler atmosphere, and the scene 
 changes to a landscape of ravines and crags hung with giant 
 creepers in festoons spread from tree to tree and rock to rock. 
 Then we begin to toil up the remaining ten miles of the rocky 
 pilgrimage over gnarled and interlaced roots and relentless 
 obstacles innumerable, at one moment on the edge of a steep 
 abyss, at another tra^■ersing narrow passes o'crhung with the 
 boughs of forest trees. At length we reach Ouda Pawanrlla, 
 a hamlet at the foot of a huge beetling cliff. .As we climb on 
 we pass near the edge of a dizzy precipice about eight hundred 
 feet in depth, called Nilihela, after a maiden who incautiously 
 fell over it and was dashed to pieces on the rocks below. Her 
 spirit still haunts the spot, and her \oice is heard in the echo 
 that answers to ours. Everv open eminence for the rest of the 
 wav discloses a prospect both enchanting and magnificent. A 
 toilsome mile farther brings us to Divabelnia, where the Peak
 
 45') Till". HOOK Ol' (i:\I.OX 
 
 Main Line HOW comcs into \ icw, and the rtxcrciitial ejaculation of the 
 Adum's |)il}4i'mis, " Saiidu ! " " Saiidu I " breaks the stillness of the 
 Peak dense forest as tlie j^oal of their aspirations is rexealed to their 
 
 si-ht. 
 
 Here is a dila])idated bungalow whieh is now useless to the 
 traveller, being choked up with a rank growth of vegetation. 
 I'robably one of the last Europeans who made use of it was 
 Mr. Knighton, who described it as a damp, uncomfortable 
 cell, where all attempt to sleep was vain owing to the roar of 
 elephants and the scream of leopards and monkeys, which alone 
 were sufficient to make night hideous, to say nothing of the 
 possibility of a visit from such unwelcome guests. 
 
 Next we come to a romantic bathing-pool, where the 
 Sitaganga, a sacred mountain stream, the subject of a great 
 deal of legendary superstition, provides the pilgrims with holy 
 water for the obligatory purification before they attempt to 
 ascend the precipitous rocks which for the rest of the way now 
 demand the utmost intrepidity. 
 The chains The most appalling obstacle is reached when the traveller, 
 
 hax'ing climbed to the summit of a precipice, is met by a cliff 
 whose crest literally overhangs the spot upon which he stands. 
 To scale this wall of rock with its projecting cornice w'ithout 
 artificial aids would be utterly impossible. An iron ladder, 
 however, has been affixed to the perpendicular wall, and at the 
 top the defiant projection has to be overcome by means of links 
 let into the rock and by the aid of chains attached to the sloping 
 slabs of granite which crown the cliff. The stoutest heart 
 cannot but experience moments of anxiety as this point is 
 reached, and the feet leave the firm ladder to be inserted in the 
 rusty ill-shaped links. There is nothing between us and the 
 yawning abyss save the links, which grate and sway as, with 
 every nerve o'erstrained, we haul ourselves over the next thirty 
 yards of bare and sloping rock. So great is the peril, that the 
 slightest hesitation or the merest glance to right or left might 
 unsteady the nerves and end in a fatal catastrophe. 
 History of Thc history of these rusty chains, with their shapeless links 
 
 of varying size bearing the unmistakable impress of antiquity, 
 is in\olved in myth and mysterv. The chain near the top is 
 said to haAC been made by Adam himself, who is believed by all 
 true followers of the Prophet to have been hurled from the 
 seventh heaven of Paradise upon this Peak, where he remained 
 standing on one foot until years of penitence and suffering had 
 expiated his offence. His partner Eve is believed to have fallen 
 near Mecca, and after being separated from her husband for 
 two hundred years, Adam, with the assistance of thc angel 
 Gabriel, fetched her to Ce\ Ion as being in his opinion the best 
 substitute for Paradise. 
 
 the chains
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 457 
 
 Ashrcef, a Persian poet, tells us that \vc owe the tixint^ ot Main Line 
 the chains to Alexander the Great, who " voyaged to Ceylon Adam's 
 about B.C. 330, and there devised means whereby he and his **'^**'^ 
 friends might ascend the mountain of Serendib, fixing thereto 
 chains with rings and nails and rivets made of iron and brass, 
 so that travellers, by their assistance, may be enabled to climb 
 the mountain, and obtain glory by finding the sepulchre of 
 Adam, on whom be the blessing of Allah ! 
 
 Whatever value may be set upon these statements as to the 
 origin of the chains, it is certain that they existed at a very 
 early period. Marco Polo, who visited Ceylon in the thirteenth 
 century, thus refers to them : " In this island there is a very 
 high mountain, so rocky and precipitous that the ascent to the 
 top is impracticable except by the assistance of iron chains 
 employed for that purpose." How they were affixed is a 
 mystery impossible of solution, and I certainly have no theory 
 to advance. 
 
 The summit is reached by climbing an almost perpendicular chain 0/ 
 precipice by the aid of a chain called the " chain of the creed," ' * "^"' 
 on each link of which the weary pilgrims utter some expression 
 of devotion as they attain to the miniature plateau where their 
 longing hearts are satisfied before the Sri-pada or sacred 
 footprint. 
 
 The ascent to the Peak from the north-eastern side is, as we Ascent from 
 have said, easier than the one described above, and, although ■*^'"*^''>" 
 it is generally considered less meritorious from the pilgrim's 
 point of view, many forego the benefits to be derived from the 
 more arduous climb in the belief that the additional peril, 
 though by no means supererogatory, is not essential to their 
 sacred duty. 
 
 The European traveller is of course quite free in his choice. 
 If he does not care to take his life in his hands up the south- 
 western route, he may journey from Hatton into the Maskeliya 
 district and ascend on this side. 
 
 We advance through the forest to Oosamalle, the final 
 ascent to which is made by means of steps cut in the precipitous 
 rocks. This is the last place w^herc water is procurable before 
 the summit is reached. On either side of the ledge will be 
 noticed rude huts, where pilgrims are wont to refresh them- 
 selves prior to the task that now awaits them. The beautiful 
 flowering nclu is seen in the foreground, and the aged rhodo- 
 dendrons spread their haggard branches above the dilapidated 
 roofing of the hovels. 
 
 It will be noticed that Oosamalle lies at the very foot of the 
 
 actual cone, and here the ascent in real earnest begins. It is 
 
 about three miles to tlie summit, and as the dilTirulties of the 
 
 climb on this side may to some extent be realised from an 
 
 2 E
 
 458 TlIK HO(JK ()l'" CKVLON 
 
 Main Line examination of the picture, 1 shall spare the reader any further 
 Adam's description, only adding that similar chains of mysterious origin 
 Peak .,,-j. found suspended over every cliff that presents any great 
 
 danger, for the assistance of the pilgrims by this route also. 
 ,1 nifiiii on The last glimmer of light was passing away as I clambered 
 
 thcsummU |,j(,j ^\^^^. ^^^^^yy space, enclosed within a wall of rock, within 
 which lies the sacred footprint beneath a picturesque little 
 canopN. 1 had the good fortune to make the ascent in the 
 genial company of a gentleman whose estate lies at the foot of 
 the mountain, and without whose valuable acquaintance with 
 the \crnacular, which he placed at my service, my camera at 
 least would never have reached the top. Our retinue of coolies, 
 amongst whom were distributed the necessary provisions and 
 camping paraphernalia for the night, became almost mutinous, 
 complaining bitterly of their burden, and asserting the impossi- 
 bility of proceeding up the difificult steeps encumbered with its 
 weight. The sorest grievance was the forty pounds of my 
 camera box, which we were determined should not fall behind, 
 for the sole object of the journey was to photograph the re- 
 markable shadow of the Peak as seen in our picture. At length, 
 however, all reached the top in safety, and we immediately set 
 to work with such preparations for the comfort of the inner and 
 outer man as are possible where there is literally no protection 
 from the wind that bites the cheek and chills the bones. How 
 the poor and thinly clad coolies bear the exposure I cannot 
 understand, for with the thickest winter clothing and wrapped 
 in woollen rugs, the cold seemed to us intense. Fires were 
 soon kindled, and the cook who accompanied us served with 
 marvellous alacrity a dinner that would have done credit to a 
 well-appointed kitchen. 
 
 The first hours of night were passed in the pleasant talk 
 which is always a natural outcome of excellent toddy accom- 
 panied by the fragrant weed. At length Nature's sweet 
 restorer came, and, covered in our wraps, we slept till the 
 buzz of voices told of the approach of dawn. Then came the 
 moments of suspense. Would the atmospheric conditions, 
 Thcshadoiu without which the shadow is impossible, present themselves? 
 The first faint beams revealed the fleecy shroud of mist covering 
 the world below, and, as clearer grew the welling light, up rose 
 the mighty shadow. Like a distant pyramid it stood for many 
 seconds ; then nearer and nearer, ever increasing in size and 
 distinctness as the rays of light broadened over the horizon, it 
 advanced towards us like a veil, through which the distant 
 mountain forests and plains w-ere distinctly visible, till at 
 length it seemed to merge in its mighty parent, and instantly 
 vanished. 
 
 It has been stated that as the shadow approaches the moun-
 
 614. DEVON FALLS.
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVLOX 461 
 
 tain its size diminishes ; but this is the opposite of what I saw Main i.inc 
 and the camera recorded. Accounts of this phenomenon are, 
 however, so varying, that doubtless its characteristics differ 
 with the changes of temperature, the density of the vapours, 
 and the direction of the air-currents. 
 
 As the shadow departed the mists began to float upwards, 
 revealing a landscape which, b\ all who have seen it, is unani- 
 mously admitted to be amongst the grandest in the world. 
 " Xo other mountain," wrote Sir Emerson Tennent, " presents 
 the same unobstructed view over land and sea. Around it to 
 the north and east the traveller looks down on the zone of lofty 
 hills that encircle the Kandyan kingdom, whilst to the west- 
 ward the eye is carried far over undulated plains, threaded by 
 rivers like cords of silver, till in the purple distance the glitter 
 of the sunbeams on the sea marks the line of the Indian Ocean." 
 
 KOTACiALA (11 im. -5c.). Soon after lca\ing llatton the Kotagala 
 railway line passes through the i^oolbank tunnel, 014 yards ■'■''^^. '"'•■'' 
 long. About the middle of the tunnel the gradient begins to 
 decline, until at Kotagala station we are seventy-six feet lower 
 than Hatton. After passing Kotagala the loveliness of the 
 scenery increases until it seems to reach its climax as the 
 remarkable beauty of the St. Clair Falls unfolds itself just 
 before we reach Takiwakele. The falls appear on the left, and 
 some vigilance is required to obtain a good view owing to the 
 recent growth of trees. The passenger who alights at Tala- 
 wakele should not fail to visit these falls, which can be reached 
 by walking to the 19 5^ mile post on the Xawalapitiya road. 
 Two miles farther on the same winding road one of the most 
 beautiful landscapes in Ceylon is to be found, where, at an 
 abrupt corner of the road, another cataract, the Devon Falls, 
 bursts upon the sight. Xo photograph can do it justice ; the 
 charm of the view is in the setting of the waterfall with its 
 steep and rugged background of rock, and the estates at 
 various elevations towering above it, while the more distant 
 ridges one by one recede till the farthermost is lost in rolling 
 vapours. There are here five miles of road that present some 
 exquisite landscapes seldom seen by the visitor, who is usually 
 pushing on with all speed to Nuwara Eliya. 
 
 Talawakki.k (115m. 65c.). — Tahiwakeli' is an important Toiawakel6 
 station of Dimbula, the largest of all the tea districts. The 
 little town itself has a poinikition of about 1,500, and includes 
 amongst its local manufactures the various kinds of machinery 
 used in the manufacture of tea and the preparation of rubber. 
 Some idea of its business may be gauged from the fact that 
 about twenty million pounds of tea are despatched annually 
 from Taldwakele station alone. Local accommodation for 
 
 j.VjJ
 
 462 rill'; I'.OOK OF CI'.M.ON 
 
 Main Line 1 ravfllcrs is good. Tlie rest-liousc, live minutes' wall< from 
 Dimbuia the station, has three bedrooms and stabhng for three horses, 
 good food being procurable without previously ordering. The 
 divisions of Lindula and Agrapatana are served by mail coaches 
 in which passengers can travel, and private carriages may be 
 obtained at moderate rates of hire. The whole district is well 
 served with means of communication ; the railway runs right 
 through it, winding about its mountain sides for twenty miles, 
 and reaching the elevation of five thousand feet ; while splendid 
 roads penetrate its various divisions. One of these, Agra- 
 Af^riifaiima pataua, is sccoud to none for its perfect combination of all the 
 characteristics of climate and soil that have been found suitable 
 for the production of the highest class of Ceylon tea. It has 
 indeed a perfect tea-climate ; and the formation of the hills 
 ensures immunity from damage by wind, which in many dis- 
 tricts is a danger that has to be provided against by the growth 
 of extensive belts of grevilleas and gums for shelter. I do not 
 say that none are necessary in Agrapatana, but fewer than in 
 more exposed country. The climate of Dimbuia, especially in 
 the Lindula and Agrapatana divisions, is as near perfection as 
 need be desired. Its average shade temperature is about 
 65° Fahr. , and it may be said that the variation is from 55° 
 to 70°. The rainfall is about one hundred inches for the year, 
 and is fairly distributed. After giving warning by the gradual 
 increase in the density of the vapours, it descends in true 
 tropical fashion, but with long intervals of sunshine between 
 the storms. 
 
 To visit Agrapatana we leave the railway at Talawakele, 
 where a good road passes through Lindula for about five miles, 
 and thence for twelve miles through the Agra district. 
 Taidwakeii But first of all Talawakcle Bazaar will arrest attention ; for 
 
 Bazaar j^ j^. ^^^ ^f ^^xc liveliest of native trading quarters. Here the 
 labourers, men, women, and children, of a hundred estates, are 
 supplied with their luxuries, which consist chiefly of trinkets, 
 sweets, curry stuffs, and cloths of many colours which, without 
 any tailoring, serve them as wearing apparel. Here, too, the 
 native rice-contractors have their stores, which are of no small 
 importance in a country where the soil is cultivated only for 
 the production of luxury for exportation, and the food of the 
 labourer is an imported article. \\'e notice also in this busy 
 native town long rows of sheds and stations for the hundreds 
 of humped bulls that do the work of transport. Loads of tea 
 are always to be seen in course of transit to the railway, drawn 
 by these fine beasts. 
 
 Through the Agra district flows the Agra 0\a, the longest 
 feeder of the Mahaweliganga (the great sandy river), whose 
 acquaintance we made at Peradeniya. This tributary takes its
 
 615. ST. CLAIR f ALLS. 
 
 616. THE AGRA OYA.
 
 617. THE CANGANY AND HIS CHILDREN.
 
 THE BOOK OF Ci:\'LOX 465 
 
 rise at Kirigalpotta, a inountaiii reaching' an altitude of 7,73^ Main Line 
 feet, near the Horton plains. As we wend our way round the .l^■'<l^l'il'ltl 
 hillsides it is always present, meandering close at hand in the 
 valley beneath. In flood it is a roaring torrent, but after the 
 rains have subsided it becomes a picturesque and shallow river 
 flowing amongst the thousands of massive boulders of granite 
 that have during long ages of time become detached from the 
 mountains and rolled into its bed. 
 
 Our little picture gives a glimpse of this ri\er and the tea The A^ra 
 estates which lie upon its banks. Here we see a factory on '" 
 some spot where the presence of the stream is a valuable asset 
 in providing power to supplement steam ; there wc notice a 
 bungalow upon some site chosen for its beautiful aspect ; and 
 as we drive along the well-made metalled road we notice that 
 every acre, with the exception of some patanas, or grass lands, 
 from which the district derives its name, is well covered with 
 tea plants, looking unmistakably healthy, and evidencing the 
 perfect " tea-climate " to whic^h we have made reference. 
 
 For a short description of the tea industry we can choose no Tea 
 more suitable spot than this, or one more convenient to the ^*'*>"*'"? 
 traveller who desires to use this book for the purpose of glean- 
 ing information about the various districts through which he 
 is passing by rail. We will first take in its order the daily 
 round of the planter's life. To him the adage " Early to bed 
 and early to rise " is something more than a copy-book head- 
 line. He rises at early dawn, which in this country varies only 
 some minutes throughout the year, and at 6 a.m. attends the 
 muster of all the coolies employed on the estate. These com- 
 prise men, women, and children of about eleven years and 
 upwards, who assemble in gangs near the factory or other con- 
 venient spot. Each gang is in charge of a cangany or task- Thccangmiy 
 master, who superintends the work of the labourers, chastises 
 them for their shortcomings, and looks after their finances, 
 not always disinterestedly. The cangany plays an important 
 part not only in the management of the labourers, but also in 
 their supply, and we shall have more to say about him later. 
 The conductor, too, is another oflicial who puts in an appear- 
 ance and holds an even more important position. He is the 
 superintendent's right-hand man in the fields ; he understands 
 the art of cultivation and looks after the various gangs. The 
 tea-maker who superintends the work inside the factory is also 
 there ; for work in every department begins with the break of 
 day. All appear as if by magic- at the blast of a horn or the 
 sound of a tom-tom. The supcrinlciulcnt arrives on the scene, 
 counts them, and assigns them in gangs to various work ; some 
 to plucking, others to pruning, weeding, and clearing surface 
 drains. lie then recounts them and iMiters tlie number assijrned
 
 466 'illl': HOOK C)I- CI^VLON 
 
 Main Line to en li work, in order that he may be able to check them 
 Tea ;it (lie ciul ol the da}. l^arly tea, that simple term used in 
 
 pinntinK ('cxlon lo denote the Indian chota haoari or little breakfast, 
 is the next item in the superintendent's programme, and he 
 returns to his bungalow for this repast. The factory is next 
 visited, and everything there being found satisfactory he pro- 
 ceeds to the fields and inspects the work of the pluckers. Here 
 he walks carefully along the lines of women and children who 
 are plucking the young grown leaves. 
 Phukiug In our picture may be seen some pluckers at work. Ihe 
 
 baskets, which they carry suspended by ropes from their heads 
 and into which they cast the leaves over their shoulders, hold 
 about fourteen pounds weight when full. At the end of each 
 row of trees is placed a large transport basket, into which the 
 leaves are emptied from time to time as the baskets become 
 full. Women are preferred to men for this work, and earn as 
 much as twenty-five cents, or about fourpence a day. They are 
 not always the wives of the male coolies of the estate ; many of 
 them come over from India attracted by the high rate of wages 
 above mentioned. They look very picturesque while standing 
 intent upon their work among the bushes, with their fine glossy 
 hair and dreamy black eyes, their ears, necks, arms, and ankles 
 adorned with silver ornaments, and their gay cloths of many 
 colours falling in graceful folds. To such an extent does prac- 
 tice quicken the action of eye, brain, and finger, that it is 
 difficult for the uninitiated to believe how carefully chosen is 
 each leaf or shoot that falls into the basket. Plucking is a 
 most important branch of the tea-planter's business, and re- 
 quires careful teaching and constant supervision. Only the 
 young and succulent leaves can be used in the manufacture, 
 and the younger the leaf the finer the quality of the tea ; so 
 that if a specially delicate quality is desired, only the bud and 
 two extreme leaves of each shoot will be taken ; whereas if a 
 large yield is wanted, as many as four leaves may be plucked 
 from the top of the shoot downwards, but with the result of a 
 proportionately poorer quality of the manufactured article. 
 There are many other points in the art of tea plucking that 
 require care and judgment, as, for instance, the eye or bud in 
 the axil of the leaf plucked must be left uninjured on the 
 branch ; and where special grades of tea are required the selec- 
 tion of particular leaves is of the utmost importance. 
 Weeding Although a tea estate has no hedgerows or such visible 
 
 boundaries, it is nevertheless divided into fields for convenience 
 of treatment, and each field is visited in turn by the super- 
 intendent. Weeding is very effectively and thoroughly carried 
 out. It would astonish farmers in the Old Country to hear 
 that in Cevlon the tea fields are weeded on contract at the
 
 619. THE MERCILESS OPERATION OF DISMEMBERMENT.
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVLON 469 
 
 rate of about one shilling" and fourpence for each acre per Main Line 
 month, and that upon this system they are kept almost entirely Tea 
 free from weeds and grass. Indeed, it may be said that the •^'""t'"^ 
 tea gardens of Ceylon are kept far cleaner than most of the 
 flower gardens of England. 
 
 If left to Nature the tea plant will grow to the height of 
 about twenty feet, with a circumference of about the same ; 
 but the art of the planter keeps it down to about three feet 
 by constant prunings. After a year or two of plucking the pruning 
 plant naturally loses the vitality requisite to send forth abund- 
 ance of new shoots ; it then undergoes the merciless operation 
 of dismemberment ; its branches are lopped off to such an 
 extent that it looks utterly ruined. But, as though its vital 
 parts had appreciated the rest, it bursts forth with renewed 
 vigour, and in a very few weeks is ready for the ordeal of 
 another year's constant plucking. It is the practice in some 
 cases to prune somewhat lightly cverv year and in others to 
 apply a heavier pruning biennially. 
 
 But we are anticipating, and it will perhaps be better to 
 explain the treatment of the plant in its earliest stages of 
 g-rowth. It is planted in the fields either as seed or in the 
 form of young plants taken from a nursery. Each plant is 
 allotted twelve square feet of surface soil, and thus we may 
 say that a fully-planted acre contains 3,630 plants. An im- 
 portant consideration in planting out the young seedlings which 
 are raised in the nursery is the " lining " or placing them so 
 that each may obtain the fullest exposure to the sun, in order 
 that when they reach maturity the plucking surface, which 
 wholly depends upon the sun's influence, may be as great as 
 possible. Opinions differ as to the age at which plucking may 
 begin, but it depends greatly upon the elevation of the estate 
 above sea-level, the growth being naturally less rapid in the 
 cooler regions of higher altitude. We may, however, say 
 roughly that in the low country, from sea-level to two thou- 
 sand feet, tea plants will mature for plucking in two years, 
 and upon the higher lands in four years. But about a vear 
 before the plant thus comes into bearing for purposes of tea 
 manufacture it is cut down to about nine inches or a foot 
 from the ground ; and again the same operation is performed 
 two inches higher than the first cutting a couple of months 
 before plucking begins. The plant is now plucked regularly 
 every eight or nine days for two years, when it is again cut 
 down to a couple of inches above the last cut. It will be 
 seen fiom the foregoing remarks that in the matter of pruning 
 the younger bushes are treated somewhat differently from the 
 older ones, inasmuch as the young ones are allowed to retain 
 a larger proportion of iheir recent growth.
 
 470 THE HOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Main Line TIh' jiniatcur whc) trics his prentice hand with the pruning 
 
 Tea knitc will be surprised at the hard labour of the task and the 
 
 piantitiK discomfort of the stooping- attitude that must be adopted ; and 
 when it is considered that a field of about fifty acres contains 
 some two hundred thousand bushes the amount of toil in- 
 volved win become apparent. Of course male coolies only are 
 employed at this work, and they become so remarkably dex- 
 terous that what seems to the novice a task of great exertion 
 becomes to them one of comparative ease. 
 
 The branches which are lopped off in the process of pruning 
 are for the most part left where they fall ; but as many fall 
 into and obstruct the surface drains it is necessary to put on 
 coolies to clear these out. A space of about six feet on either 
 side of the drain is kept entirely free, so that there may be 
 no impediment to the flow of the surface water. It is, how- 
 ever, considered advisable, in seasons of much blight, to bury 
 or burn the prunings, and this method has recently been very 
 extensively adopted. 
 
 It is now about ten o'clock and the baskets of the most 
 dexterous pluckers should be nearly full. The superintendent 
 Sorting therefore returns to them and notes against their names the 
 weight of leaf plucked by each, after which the baskets are 
 emptied and the leaf conveyed to the factory. This operation 
 is repeated two or three times in the course of the day. At 
 four o'clock the pluckers cease work and carry off their baskets 
 to the factory, where they sort over the leaf upon mats spread 
 on the ground, as shown in our picture, and cast out any very 
 coarse leaf that may have been accidentally plucked. The 
 number of pounds plucked by each coolie is again entered in 
 the check roll against his or her name, and then the sum of 
 each plucker's efforts passes before the eye of the super- 
 intendent before the coolies are dismissed ; and woe betide 
 him, or her, who has not a goodly weig^ht accounted for. 
 Laziness thus detected brings a fine of half pay and in many 
 cases a taste of the cangany's stick. 
 
 But we were describing the dailv round of the superin- 
 tendent, and at present we have not pursued it beyond the 
 earlv morning visits to various kinds of field work. Some four 
 hours spent in this occupation in the pure mountain air, upon 
 the rockv steeps that we have described, induce a fairly healthy 
 appetite for food and drink, and the next consideration is 
 therefore the inner man. The planter returns to his bungalow 
 for breakfast at about eleven, and generally spends the after- 
 noon in attention to correspondence. At four the sound of 
 the tom-tom, horn, or whistle, according to the custom of 
 the estate, summons the coolies from the fields to the muster 
 ground, where the superintendent now marks them down in
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVLOX 473 
 
 the check-roll for their day's pay. In case of bad or in- Main Line 
 
 sullicicnt work the offender is marked down as " sick," which Tea 
 
 means no pay at all for that day ; or he gets what is termed '*'""»'"« 
 
 " half a name," which means half pay. Now they depart to 
 
 their dwellings, which are called "lines." A coolie line is Cooiu Ums 
 
 usually a long building of one storey only, divided into a large 
 
 number of compartments. Each compartment accommodates 
 
 about four coolies, and it is obvious that they do not rejoice 
 
 in the luxury of much space ; but their ideas of comfort are 
 
 not ours, and they are better pleased to lie huddled together 
 
 upon the mud floors of these tiny hovels than to occupy superior 
 
 apartments. Their lot does not call for pity or sympathy, for 
 
 in many respects they are a favoured class. 
 
 We have now dealt with a day's field-work : we have seen The factory 
 how the raw material is obtained ; but we have still to examine 
 the various processes by which it is converted into the manu- 
 factured article. For this purpose we visit the factory. Here 
 the green leaf undergoes four distinct processes, known as 
 withering, rolling, fermenting, and firing. We will take these 
 in their order, and first as to withering : 
 
 Let us deal with the green leaf that has been plucked on Uithcring 
 Monday and brought to the factory as before described. It 
 is received by the tea maker, who ascertains its net weight, 
 which he enters in a book, ll is then passed on to an upper 
 storey, where it is spread thinly on shelves of jute hessian 
 and left to wither. Our illustration of this process will give 
 a better idea of the shelves and the method of spreading the 
 leaves than many words of description. These shelves are some- 
 times made of wire instead of jute, but jute hessian very loosely 
 woven so that the air can pass freely through it is mostlv used 
 for this purpose. Successful withering depends very much on 
 good light, warm temperature, and a dry atmosphere. The 
 last named is often the most difficult to obtain, and upon wet 
 dull days it has to be produced by artificial means. In fair 
 weather the leaf will wither naturally in about eighteen or 
 twenty hours, but as the weather and climates varv in different 
 districts there can be no time rule to guide the tea maker. 
 When it is explained that the object of withering the leaf is 
 to allow the sap and other moisture to evaporate until the leaf 
 assumes a particular degree of softness and flacciditv, which 
 renders it susceptible to a good twist by the roller in the next 
 process, it will be realised how important a thing it is for 
 the tea maker to judge of the exact moment when these con- 
 ditions have been reached and the withering must terminate. 
 
 The leaf, being withered to this exact degree, is swept 
 together and conveyed to the lower floor by mexuis of a shoot. 
 Here it is put into a machine called a roller. The object of 
 2 V
 
 474 
 
 TIIK B(X)K Ol- CEVLON 
 
 Main Line 
 
 Tea 
 
 Plantin^r 
 
 Kolliiif; 
 
 The 
 roll-breaker 
 
 Fermenting 
 
 rolling" i.s to squeeze out the tannin and any moisture left over 
 alter the withering and to give the leaf a good twist. It is 
 dillicult to describe a tea roller, or to illustrate its effective 
 parts by a photograph of the complete machine in working ; 
 our illustration should, however, assist us to understand it 
 sulliciently with the following*- explanation : The lower part 
 may be regarded as a table with cylindrical ribs attached to 
 its surface and a trap door in the centre. Suspended above 
 this table is a smaller surface opposed to it, and the two sur- 
 faces are moved in contrary directions by a crank with an 
 eccentric motion. The upper surface is open in the centre, and 
 extending upwards from the opening is a funnel or box to 
 receive the withered leaf, which being therein placed the two 
 surfaces are set in motion by steam or other power, and the 
 leaf is thus rolled and twisted between the two surfaces. The 
 lid of the funnel or box is gradually screwed down as rolling 
 proceeds and in this way the pressure upon the leaf is regulated. 
 The appearance of the leaf or " roll," as it is technically termed, 
 when taken out of the roller is a mess of mashy lumps. 
 
 It is next put through a roll-breaker, which not only breaks 
 up the balls or lumps into which the leaves have formed but 
 sifts the small and fine leaf through a wire mesh on to a cloth 
 placed below to receive it. The roll-breaker operates on the 
 leaf by means of rapidly revolving shafts to which are attached 
 iron forks that beat against the balls as they are cast into the 
 funnel. It is by the use of rolling machinery that Ceylon tea 
 is kept pure and free from the dirt which finds its way into the 
 teas of China, where the operation is performed by the hands 
 of the bland but unwashed Ah Sin. 
 
 The leaf is next spread out in wooden frames^ and having 
 been covered by wet cloths is allowed to ferment until it attains 
 a bright copper tint such as the infused leaves have in the 
 tea-pot ; or at least should have, for the brighter they appear 
 the better the tea. The rolling process, by breaking the cells 
 of the leaf, induces fermentation, which is a very necessary 
 stage of the manufacture, the character of the tea when made 
 depending greatly on the degree to which fermentation is 
 allowed to continue. When the commodity known as green 
 tea is required, the fermentation is checked at once so that 
 no change of colour may take place ; but to produce black tea 
 the process must be carried on for a considerable time, the 
 suflficiency of which is determined by the smell and appearance 
 of the leaf — points that require considerable experience and 
 care, since over-fermentation entirely spoils the quality.* 
 
 * In the Kelani Valley and other districts of the low country where the 
 climate is much hotter, very little fermenting is necessary. The leaves are 
 spread out thinly for a short time and firing may then be proceeded with.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 477 
 
 Fermentation being" complete, the tea is now transferred Main Line 
 to the apparatus known as the desiccator, where it undergoes Tea 
 the process known as firing. The fermented leaf is spread ""^'n^ 
 thinly upon wire trays, which are pushed one after the other '""^" '"''' 
 into this machine, where a current of hot air from 210° to 
 220° Fahr. is made to pass through them. The tea emerges 
 from the desiccator perfectly dry and brittle, and of a black 
 colour. It is now completely manufactured. The tea maker 
 next weighs it and enters the amount of " made tea " against 
 the leaf which he received on Monday, and it should be found 
 to be lighter by 76 per cent. The actual ratio of green leaf 
 to " made tea " works out at about 4,200 lbs. of green leaf to 
 1,000 lbs. of manufactured tea. 
 
 Monday's plucking, which has now by Tuesday night been 
 converted into tea, is placed into bins, with wire meshed lids, 
 to cool, and on Wednesday morning it goes through the 
 process of sifting, which sorts it up into the various grades 
 known commerciallv as Broken Orange Pekoe, Orange Pckf)e, 
 Pekoe, Souchong-, and Dust, all of which terms are of Chinese 
 origin, and refer to some characteristic of the sort of tea they 
 represent. 
 
 The sifter is a machine consisting of a series of sieves one sifting 
 above the other in the form of sloping tra\s with wire meshes. 
 The top tray has a mesh large enough to admit all but the 
 coarsest leaf ; the mesh of the second one is somewhat smaller, 
 and the third and fourth decrease in like manner. This 
 sequence of meshes, varying- in their apertures, is designed 
 to allow the tea to practically sift itself, inasmuch as each sieve 
 arrests a particular grade, the smallest leaf fallings through all 
 the sieves. These sieves or trays are made to oscillate at a 
 very high rate of speed, the power being supplied from the 
 factor}' engine. It will be seen from our illustration that the 
 sifter automatically ejects the various grades by means of 
 spouts from which it falls into chests. 
 
 There is yet something mf)re to be said about the tea as GohUn Tips 
 it comes from the sifter. The smallest " leaf " which finds its 
 wav to the bottom of the sifter is known as " tea dust." It 
 makes good tea ; but the crcmc dc la crane of Ceylon tea is 
 that which is arrested by the fourth sieve, known commercially 
 as Broken Orange Pekoe. It is ;i fine and small tea, consist- 
 ing to a great extent of young tips which look like little chips 
 of wood. These tips not only give the tea a good appear- 
 ance, but they add greatly to its strength and flavour when 
 infused, as they are the essence of the leaf, .\lone they would 
 be far too strong for the tea-pot, but sometimes they have been 
 separated from the other leaves and sold as pure golden tips. 
 Thev mav be sep.irated bv throwing the tea ag.'iinst a big sheet
 
 478 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Main Line of jutc-hcssian, to which the tips adhere and the remainder 
 
 Tea falls to the ground. 
 
 Planting jhc Broken Orange Pekoe travels along the lowest tray 
 
 till it reaches the end of the machine, where it falls into its 
 box, from which it is removed, weighed again, and transferred 
 to bins reserved for its special grade. The other grades, 
 Orange Pekoe, Pekoe, and Souchong, are all treated in like 
 manner, each falling from the sifter into its special box. The 
 tea maker enters in the factory book the weight of each grade 
 after sifting, and checks it by the aggregate weight entered 
 before sifting. 
 
 The different grades are day by day stored aAvay in their 
 separate bins, until there is enough to make what is tech- 
 nically known as a " break," which means a sufficient quantity 
 to place on the market — say 6,000 lbs. and upwards. 
 
 Bulking xhe next operation is " iDulking," a process simple enough, 
 
 but of very real importance. The whole contents of the bins 
 of one grade are throw-n out and moved by scoops or shovels 
 until they become so thoroughly mixed that one pound of tea 
 is quite certain to be equal to another in flavour and appear- 
 ance. This bulking is necessary to ensure a uniformity of 
 quality throughout a grade of tea which has been plucked and 
 made on different days. The term " factory bulked," when 
 marked upon the chests in which the tea is packed for ship- 
 ment, indicates that the above operations have taken place, 
 and is a guarantee of uniform quality. It is imperative that 
 the planter should give most careful attention to this matter, 
 as buyers are entitled to reject any break that does not prove 
 to be evenly bulked ; and, moreover, teas discovered to be 
 unevenly bulked when they arrive in the London customs are 
 liable to be rebulked at the expense of the grower before 
 removal. 
 
 Packing Packing is the next operation. Each chest is lined with 
 
 lead, and weighed carefullv with its little packet of hoop iron 
 and nails necessary for finallv securing the lid. The gross 
 weight of each is noted, and filling then commences. This is 
 generallv done by machinery. The chest is placed on a plat- 
 form which oscillates and revolves at about two thousand five 
 hundred revolutions a minute ; the tea being poured in is thus 
 shaken so that the utmost capacity of the chest is utilised. All 
 this is done so accurately that the full chest contains its allotted 
 net w^eight to an ounce. A sheet of lead is now placed on the 
 top and soldered down, thus securing the contents from air 
 or moisture. The lids now being nailed on and the hoop iron 
 attached, the chests are ready for the final operation of marking 
 with the estate name, the grade, and the gross and net weight, 
 after which they are ready for despatch to the tea market.
 
 H
 
 625. DIMBULA FROM NANU OYA. 
 
 626. A DIMBULA TEA ESTATE AND FACTORY
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 481 
 
 That tea planting- is an active and husv life will be g-athered Main Line 
 from the foreg-oing- sketch of the daily round, and it may not ''""''"'" 
 be untrue to say that the planter as a rule works hard. Perhaps 
 it is equally true that he plays harder. In this and many other 
 districts life is by no means all work, nor does it mean, as it 
 used to do in the early coffee days, banishment from the 
 amenities of social life. Each district has its sporting^, social, 
 and athletic clubs, and cricket, football, and hockey grounds, 
 while some have also their racecourse. 
 
 We take train again at Tahiwakclc, and after a mile or 
 two a distant view of the beautiful Devon Falls is noticed. An 
 interesting- feature of this part of the journey is the curious 
 serpentine winding- of the line. In one place to advance a 
 singflc furlong- it takes a curve of nearly a mile in length, 
 tracing- the outline of a hug-e soda-water bottle, and risings 
 meanwhile ninety feet. The winding's necessary to reach the 
 Great Western mountains now become so compressed that to 
 accomplish the distance of about one mile direct the train tra- 
 verses six miles of railway in a fashion so circuitous that a 
 straig-ht line drawn from a certain point would cross the rails 
 nine times. 
 
 Watagoda (ijom. ijc). — Watag-oda station has no feature \Vata8:oda 
 of special interest beyond its usefulness in receiving and '-'^i"-' 
 despatching- the produce of the important districts which it 
 serves ; but as we reach it, having- ascended to four hundred 
 feet above Talawakele, the atmosphere becomes so crisp and 
 refreshings that it is difficult to realise the latitude of our 
 [position within six deg-recs of the equator. The line now 
 gradually ascends upon the steep sides of the Great Western 
 range, and appi'oaches Xanuoya, with sensational crossings 
 upon g-irders laid from rock to rock over the clefts of the moun- 
 tains, affording- mag"nificent views of the Dimbula district and 
 of Adam's Peak, twenty-five miles distant, and upwards of 
 seven thousand feet above sea-level. The lovelv purple glow 
 that softlv lights the distant ridges in the earlv morn lends an 
 additional charm to the return journey beg-un at da\break. 
 
 Xanuoya (128m. 6c.). — Xanuoya is the junction for the Nanuoya 
 Xuwara Eliya and Udapussellawa lines. The railway facilities ''"' •'"' 
 are very complete and convenient, includiiig- waiting, dressing-, 
 and refreshment roonis. Passengers travelling from Bandara- 
 wela <'an order their meals bv teleg-raph iwi: of cosl. 
 
 We shall lor llie |)urpose oi our description eonlinui- upon 
 the main line to the terminus of Bandarawi-la, afterwards 
 returning to the narrow g^aug'e line which serves Xuwara l-lliya. 
 
 1- roni Xanuoya the main line gradually ascends a thousand 
 more feet in tin- next nine miles, the scencr\- chan-jini'- from
 
 482 
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Main Line 
 
 Ambawela 
 
 0,061 J\ct 
 
 Pattipola 
 
 6,211 ftd 
 
 A startling 
 spectacle 
 
 cultivated tea estates to stretches of primeval forest inter- 
 sptMsed with patanas or tjrass lands. The temperature be- 
 comes cold and the vegetation, although never leafless, appears 
 stunted as compared with the luxuriance of the lower valleys. 
 On the opposing slopes of a magnificent gorge the Dambagas- 
 talawa waterfalls dashing forth in the midst of dense forest 
 will be noticed from the train. 
 
 Ambawela (137m. 8c.). — Ambawxla station serves the New 
 Gallway estates five miles distant ; but is far from any town 
 or village. \'egetables of every kind that flourish in tem- 
 perate climates do well here and are cultivated for the Colombo 
 market and the requirements of the passenger steamships. 
 Among the animals that inhabit the forests are the elk, the 
 leopard, and the elephant. 
 
 Pattipola (139m. 6c.). — Here the highest point of the main 
 line is reached. This station interests us as being a con- 
 venient point from which to start on a walking excursion to 
 the Horton Plains (six miles). It is not the nearest station to 
 the plains ; but from it the path is easier than from Ohiya. 
 Moreover there is a comfortable rest-house at Pattipola where 
 we can stay in case of missing a train. Horton Plains will 
 presently be described ; but first some reference must be made 
 to the unique natural features of the spot we have now reached. 
 At Pattipola there is but a wall of rock, the crest of a moun- 
 tain, between us and a province totally different in physical 
 aspect and in climate. The railway pierces the rock, and as 
 we emerge there is suddenly spread before us the grandest 
 panorama in Ceylon, a vast mountain ledge of rolling downs, 
 six hundred square miles in extent, forming an arena to the 
 lofty blue mountains that surround it. It is the province of 
 Uva. The transition is instantaneous, and the spectacle 
 startling, especially if, as often happens, we. have been en- 
 veloped in damp mists in our approach to the tunnel. The 
 phenomenon is most striking in the south-west monsoon when 
 the prevailing weather on the west side of the dividing range 
 is wet, misty and cold, while on the eastern side the whole 
 plains are ablaze with sunshine, and the air is crisp and dry. 
 It is even possible to stand on the crest of the mountain through 
 which the tunnel passes and see the storms of the west being 
 held back from the bracing air and sunshine of the east by 
 the dividing ranges. The existence of these two distinct and 
 separate climates is due to the action of the monsoons in con- 
 nection with the peculiar formation of the mountain system. 
 The astonishing effect is not limited to this neighbourhood, 
 but extends to all the ranges which divide the province of Uva 
 from the west. Thus it frequently happens that when Nuwara
 
 627. A GORGE OF THE UVA DOWNS.
 
 628. OHIYA RAILWAY STATION. 
 
 629, UVA UNDER ITS RAINY MANTLE.
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVLON 485 
 
 Eliya is uet, a clear sky and sunshine may be enjoyed by an Main ijne 
 hour's drive into Uva, and vice versa, for Uva is Ircqucntly 
 under its rainy mantle during^ the nortli-east monsoon. Some 
 beautiful effects are produced by this peculiar combination of 
 phenomena in the {graceful forms evolved from the mists as 
 they roll onward and jjathcr in dense masses above the crests 
 of the mountain barriers that protect the sunny plains. 
 
 OnivA (143m. 33c.).— Ohiya, which we illustrate in plate Ohiya 
 628, is one of the most picturesque stations on this line ; but ^''-^-f"' 
 its beauty is of a character reminiscent of Cornwall rather 
 than the tropics, for here we see Eng"lish flowers in great 
 variety and abundance, and no sign of the flora which dis- 
 tinguishes the lower elevations. About a thousand feet above 
 Ohiya lie the Horton Plains, which may be reached in an hour Hortou 
 and a half by a precipitous path through the forest. This '''""" 
 extensi\e table-land, seven thousand feet above sea level, was 
 until the introduction of the railway so exempt from human 
 interference that the elk, red deer, wild boar, and leopard 
 dwelt there in great numbers, and the sportsman of Ceylon 
 could always depend on a good bag. The old rest-house was 
 the only building for fifteen miles, and it was chielly used for 
 hunting and shooting parties. 
 
 The famous abyss known as The World's End also attracts tiu worUi's 
 a number of travellers. This merits a few lines of description. '''"' 
 The southern portion of the great table-land ends so abruptly 
 as to give the sensation of having literally arrived at the end 
 of the world. The traveller comes upon this suddenly when 
 emerging from the forest, and the effect is startling in the 
 extreme. One may stand at the brink of the precipice and gaze 
 straight down the sheer side of the mountain upon another 
 woild five thousand feet below. Here is an atmosphere 
 bracing and cold ; there lie the steaming plains of the low 
 country. So great is the distance of the plantations, rivers, 
 bungalows, and forests, that only by the aid of a telescope 
 can the nature of any particular object be determined. Few 
 human eyes looked across that marvellous abyss until quite 
 recent years ; but with the facilities now offered by the rail- 
 way it is becoming a more frequented spot. Although the 
 leopard may have deserted his old haunt and the herds of 
 elephants betaken themselves to quieter regions undisturbed by 
 the iron horse, the same weird forests, with their dense under- 
 growth of masses of nelu scrub, the same magniiicent land- 
 .scapes and the impressive scene at the World's I'^nd ;ire 
 there unaltered. The trees, which look so old and undisturbed 
 with their rich long beards of variegated moss, .'ippe.ired to 
 be dwarfed by the cold of their lofty and exposed situation.
 
 486 
 
 THE HOOK OF CI':VLON 
 
 Haputale 
 
 ■1,765 feet 
 
 Main Line Wild flovvcrs, oicliids, .'uid fcriis always render the scene fairy- 
 like in the sunshine, but it is when the nelu is in blossom that 
 these hit^hland forests transcend in beauty almost every other 
 part of Ceylon. This lovely flowerinj^ shrub, of the Strohilanthes 
 family, is the chief undergrowth in these forests, and the 
 species number as many as twenty-seven, some of which g^row 
 only in the drier parts of the country, but about twenty of 
 them favour those forests with a considerable rainfall. Some 
 are delicate and small, others have thick cane stems and ^row 
 to a g-reat heig-ht. The blossoms cluster round the joints of 
 their stems, and display great variety of colour — blue, purple, 
 red, white, and the parti-coloured crimson and white. The 
 blossoming- is so profuse that the plant takes some years to 
 recover, and it is therefore seldom that these high jungles are 
 seen in their fullest glory. The fragrance of the atmosphere 
 is no less remarkable than the beauty of the scene. 
 
 Haputale (153m. 43c.). — From Ohiya the railway gradually 
 descends amidst a multitude of broken cliffs and rocky ravines 
 and through a series of short tunnels until Haputale is reached. 
 This place should be visited by the traveller, if only for the 
 magnificent view to be obtained of the low country. On a 
 clear day the lowlands are visible right away to the south coast. 
 There is usually considerable haze over wooded and undulated 
 lands in the far distance; but even this is beautiful, and lends 
 a lovely blue tint to the whole scene. 
 
 To the south of Haputale lies an important planting district 
 possessing an almost perfect climate and lovely scenery. The 
 visitor, who will find the accommodation at the rest-house 
 sufficient for his needs, should explore the outlying districts of 
 Koslande and Haldamulla. 
 Diyataiawa DiYATALAWA (156m. 76c.). — Diyatalawa is famous as the 
 
 4,367 jeet place where five thousand of the Boer prisoners-of-war were 
 
 encamped for two years. A considerable number of the build- 
 ings erected for their accommodation are still in use for military 
 purposes, the camp being used as a sanatorium for regular 
 troops and a training ground for the volunteers. 
 
 Bandarawela Bandarawela (i6om. 58c.).- — Bandarawela is the terminus 
 
 4,036/eet Qf ^j^g main line. Upon arrival here the visitor is generally 
 
 eager to admit that upon no other raihvay journey has he ex- 
 perienced scenes so varied and interesting as those afforded by 
 this journey from Colombo to Bandarawela. The railway now 
 renders the choice of climate to which we have previously re- 
 ferred available at all seasons. There is a good hotel at 
 Bandarawela, and the enervated resident of the lowlands can 
 at all times make sure of enjoying fine invigorating air in a few 
 hours, choosing Uva when Nuwara Eliya is wet, and vice versa.
 
 1 -i- 
 
 mfH^^^^^lLu^^ 
 
 L^vi-J - 
 
 
 
 630. HAPUTALE RAILWAY STATION. 
 
 
 'V"yi»7 ^ .- ,ty 
 
 631. VIEW FROM HAPUTALE LOOKING TO TOTAPELLA.
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVLOX 489 
 
 The principal mountains which enclose the great stretch of ^^^''" '-'"e 
 rolling downs, which we have seen upon our journev down 
 from Ohiya, surxeying them from the left, are Hakgalla, 
 Fidurutallagalla, the L'dapussellawa and Kandapola ranges, 
 and Xamunakula. 
 
 Many pleasant excursions are open to the \isitor from liaduiia 
 Bandarawela, descriptions of which we have not space to 
 include here. W'e must, however, make some reference to 
 one of the most charming towns of Ceylon, that lies in a lovely 
 valley at the foot of the noble Xamunakula — Badulla, the 
 capital of the province and the seat of the Government Agent. 
 Between Bandarawela and Badulla there is a regular coach 
 service, which makes the journey quite practicable for the 
 visitor. The journey of se\enteen miles will be found interest- 
 ing mainly on account of the nourishing tea estates through 
 which we pass and the rice fields which fill the Aalley for the 
 last four or five miles. Arri\ing at Badulla, in consequence of 
 our having descended from an elevation of four thousand to 
 about two thousand feet, the climate will be found much 
 warmer. The lower elevation favours tropical verdure, and 
 we see in Badulla the beautiful trees and palms that we miss in 
 the arena of the patauas of Uva. Upon entering the town the 
 traveller is impressed by the architectural features and the 
 substantial appearance of the public buildings, the fine trees 
 by which the broad roads are everywhere shaded, and the 
 general well-kept air of the place. A ri\er, whose banks are 
 clothed with beautiful \egetation, almost encircles the town 
 and supplies the c/i/.v whiih irrigate vast stretches of paddy 
 fields. After pursuing a course which contributes greatly to 
 the agricultural utility as well as to the charm of the scenery, 
 the waters tlow through a narrow gorge and oxer a precipitous 
 rock to form the exquisite Dunhinda halls. 
 
 The judge's bungalow will be first noticed on a knoll to 
 the right, and as we proceed the remarkably fine Hospital 
 comes into view on the left. Next we pass the market, whiih 
 is an ornamental as well as a very useful institution. Here 
 we notice a plentiful supply of fine fruit, suggesting at once 
 that we arc in a fruit-growing district. Indeed, we soon find 
 this to l)c the case; for nowlicrc do we get better pineapples 
 and oranges than are spread before us in abundance at the 
 rest-house. If it be the season for this fruit the pineapples, 
 eighteen inches in circumference and of unequalled flavour, 
 will be remembered by the traveller when other details of his 
 visit have long faded from his mind, hrom the market extends 
 one of the most beautiful avenues of Inga Saman, or rain trees, 
 that can be found anywhere. 
 
 On the right of the avenue is an extensive grassy bank 
 2 G
 
 490 THK HOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Main Line ovcT which a i^^raiid view of Xamunakula can be seen, his 
 luuiuiia lofty brow frequently enshrouded in mist, as in our picture in 
 plate 632. On the left of the avenue we notice several imposing 
 buildings, including the District Court, the Police Barracks, 
 and the Kachcheri, or seat of provincial government. The 
 last-named is on the site of the old star fort, the earthworks of 
 which still remain. In earlier times the palace of the Prince 
 of Uva is said to have stood there. 
 
 The province is administered by the Government Agent and 
 his staff from the Kachcheri. The area is 3,725 square miles, 
 and the population about 160,000 Sinhalese. For convenience 
 of administration it is formed into seven divisions, each being 
 placed under the care of a Ratemahatmaya. 
 
 There is an estate population of immigrant Tamils to the 
 number of about 35,000. These are mostly employed on the 
 estates of the British planters which cover the mountains of 
 the Madulsima, Monaragala, and Haputale ranges. These 
 estates, about two hundred in number, are the principal con- 
 tributors to the general prosperity of the province, and to 
 them Badulla owes its rise from an insignificant village to a 
 thriving and beautiful town. 
 A remark- ^ memorial of touching interest is to be seen in the old 
 
 cemetery at Badulla — the tomb of Mrs. Wilson, wife of the 
 Assistant Government Agent, Sylvester Douglas Wilson, who 
 was killed in the rebellion of 18 17. It will be noticed that a 
 bo tree, Ficus religiosa, has here almost completely enfolded 
 the tomb, holding it firmly and securely in its embrace. Not 
 a stone can be removed without cutting the tree. Even the 
 inscribed tablet at the end of the tomb is partly covered ; but 
 the tree here is kept trimmed so that the inscription may be 
 seen. This tree is the species of fig which is held in great 
 veneration by the Buddhists. Quite near to the Kachcheri 
 stands the comfortable rest-house with a vista stretching down 
 a fine boulevard in the direction of the Hospital. It is more 
 than an ordinary reet-house both in its accommodation and its 
 cuisine, and might be described as a comfortable little hotel. 
 Beyond this, on the left, is an ornamental fountain, on the 
 right the quarters of the Provincial Engineer, and further on 
 standing in extensive grounds is the Residency, the official 
 abode of the Government Agent of the province. The Town 
 Hall, which serves as a library and reading-room as well as a 
 place for public meetings, and one of the best buildings of the 
 town, is situated near the Residency. 
 
 One other feature of this important and progressive town 
 is the botanic gardens. The climate is so perfectly suited for 
 experimental horticulture that it was thought advisable some 
 ten years ago to establish a branch of Peradeniya here. How
 
 Odo. fl,MUU_LA Ktb I -MUU'l^b, 
 
 634. TOMB OF ^•.RS. WI..6UN EMBRACED B. THE 6TE.V, OF 
 THE SACRED BO TREE.
 
 635. THE NANUOYA PASS BEFORE THE CONSTRUCTION OF 
 THE RAILWAY.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 493 
 
 successful this venture has been is e\ ident to anyone who visits Main Line 
 the gardens. They are already full of marvels, and form a ""''""" 
 great attraction to both residents and visitors. 
 
 Adjoining" the gardens is the race-course where the " Merrie 
 men of Uva " assemble annually for the L'\a Autumn Meet. 
 
 In most Eastern towns there is a display of squalor and filth 
 which the Briton who has not been out of his native land can 
 hardly realise ; but Badulla is one of the exceptions. Perhaps 
 the situation of the town, with the Baduluoya sweeping almost 
 completely round it, the sloping streets, and the mild and 
 moist climate which causes the vegetation to al^sorb noxious 
 matter, may contribute to the wholesome appearance ; but in 
 addition to these influences there must be some virtue possessed 
 by the inhabitants which is not universally distributed amongst 
 town-dwellers in Ceylon. Our lasting impressions of Badulla 
 will be its well-tended buildings and streets and the beautiful 
 trees by which they are shaded ; its luxuriant fruit gardens in 
 the valley of the l^aduhuna ; its (harming race-course and the 
 lovely setting of the town, dcci)ly bordered with the bright 
 green of the padd\' fields as seen from the surrounding hills. 
 
 THE UDAPUSSELLAWA IJNE 
 ITINERARY 
 
 Passknc.krs for Nuwara I'Lliya leave the main line trains at Nanuoya 
 Nanuova and proci-ed b\' the narrow-gauge line whii'h passes '-'y'/"' 
 through Xuwara lvli\a to the district of L'dapussellaw a. Tlir 
 pass ])y which Xuwara I*]liva is reached is one of the most 
 exquisite things in C"e\Ion, equalled perhaps onI\ 1)\ the (iini- 
 gathena pass, to which referciK-e has been made on page 
 198. In traversing its length the line makes a lurtlur ascent 
 of one thousand feet in six miles, 'flie eurxcs and windings 
 nee,ssar\' to aicoinplish this are the most intrirate on the 
 wiiole railway, and sometimes ha\'e a radius of only I'ighty 
 feet. On the right wall of a deep mountain gorge \\i" asci'ud 
 amongst the tea bushes of Edinburgh estate, and at length 
 emerge ui)oii a road, which the line shares with llu- cart 
 traffic for about a mile. In the depths of the defile Hows 
 the Xanuoya rixcr, foaming amongst huge bouldi'rs of rock 
 that ha\-e descended from the sides ol the mountains, ;ind 
 bordered l)y tree ferns innumeral)le and brilliant trees of the 
 prinie\al loi-cst w liirli enti|-el\' clotlie the laee of tlie heit;hts. 
 In this land ol no seasons tluir stajjis of i-rowlh art' denoted
 
 636. SHARP CURVE OF THE RAILWAY ABOVE 
 NANUOYA. 
 
 637. THE NANUOYA PASS AFTER THE ADDITION OF THE 
 RAILWAY.
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVLOX 
 
 495 
 
 by the varying tints of scarlet, gold, crimson, sallow green, idapussei- 
 and, most striking of all, a rich claret colour, the chief glory ''»^*'» ^inc 
 of the keena tree. Here is no leafless winter, although we 
 have reached an altitude where frost is not unknown. None of 
 the plants are deciduous. In such a climate, however, with 
 bright, warm and sunny days following on chilly nights, the 
 lovely ferns which sometimes in the early morn look pitiable 
 with their blackened fronds soon recover their wonted hues. 
 In plate 636 we see one of the sharp curves of the railway to 
 which we have referred, and in plate 637 we see the road and 
 railway together. How far the aesthetic qualities of this scene 
 have suffered from the utilitarian operations of railway con- 
 struction may be judged by comparison of plates 635 and 637, 
 the latter representing the view before the introduction of the 
 iron horse. Here the railway leaves the cart road and enters 
 an enchanting glen embellished with pools and bordered by 
 receding hills down whose slopes the waters of twin cataracts 
 are dashing in headlong course. We cross the waters where 
 they reach the glen, and passing through a deep cutting come 
 out upon the plain of Xuwara Eliya, which the railway crosses, 
 reaching the station on the eastern side. 
 
 Ni'WARA Eliya {6m. 45c.) is well equipped with hotels and Nuwara Eiiya 
 boarding-houses. The Grand Hotel is in a central position ^''^^J"^'' 
 on the west side of the plain overlooking the golf links 
 and public gardens ; the New Keena Hotel, on the same 
 side, is near the United Club, croquet and tennis grounds, 
 and the race-course ; and the St. Andrews Hotel is beauti- Local 
 fully situated at the north end of the plain commanding a iinc «^^'"" """'""<"' 
 view of the whole station. Amongst boarding-houses, Carlton 
 House, under Mrs. Edley, has a good reputation. In addition 
 to the accommodation thus afforded, furnished bungalows for 
 families making a prolonged visit are usually available. 
 
 There is probably no other place in the world that possesses 
 such a remarkable combination of attractions as Xuwara Eliya. 
 This fact should be noted not only by the large army of wan- 
 derers who annually flee from the rigours of winter in northern 
 latitudes, but also by the enfeebled residents of the Indian 
 plains, for whom this unique retreat with its health-giving 
 properties should have an irresistible attraction. Xu\\ara 
 Eliya has a special recommendation which gives it the palm 
 over all other health resorts. Here we can enjoy the purest 
 and most in\igorating air, with a temperature best suited to 
 the health of lunopcans, and yet behold a luxuriant tropical 
 country at our feet. W'e can experieinx' the change from a 
 glorious bright day to a cold .Scotch mist, and yet, if we choose, 
 we can leave the moist atmosphere and leaden sky at will, and 
 by an hour's walk reach dry hills and sunny plains.
 
 496 
 
 Till': BOOK OF CEVLOX 
 
 lldupussel- 
 luwa Line 
 Nuwara I3liya 
 
 Attractions to 
 visitors 
 
 Its situation 
 
 Its salubrity 
 
 A clc.ir idea of the situation of this favoured spot can best 
 l)e trained by regardinj^ the hii^hlands of Ceylon as one huge 
 upheaval, having an area of about 4,000 square miles, with an 
 irregular surface of hills and peaks of varying height, deep 
 ravines and grassy plains, dense forests and open valleys; a 
 dozen distinct climates, each with its special characteristics of 
 animal and vegetable life, from the lofty palms and gorgeous 
 llowering shrubs of the lower elexations to the hardwood trees 
 and English flowers of the highest; from the steaming haunts 
 of the bear and buffalo to the cool regions beloved of the elk 
 and elephant. There are choice of climate and choice of scenery 
 to suit any constitution and to gratify e\'ery taste; the wildest 
 rugged country and the sweetest undulating plains ; wild sport 
 for the daring, golf-links and trout-fishing for quieter spirits, 
 and a new world withal for those who need a complete change 
 from familiar scenes. 
 
 I'Vom the base of this mighty upheaval rise abruptly the 
 four extensive ledges which we observed from the sea, at 
 different elevations, and a number of lofty mountains, some of 
 which reach the height of 5,000 to 8,000 feet above sea-level. 
 The highest, called Pidurutallagalla, reaches 8,280 feet, and at 
 the foot of it lies the Nuwara Eliya plain, just 2,000 feet below. 
 Its position is, roughly speaking, in the centre of the highlands 
 and approximately at the highest elevation, o'ertopped by only 
 one of the mountain ledges. What wonder, then, at its pure 
 and unpolluted air and its marvellous efl"ects on the weakened 
 constitutions of denizens of the low country, who find in it a 
 sanatorium for regaining the energies they have lost? 
 
 To the newly-arrived visitor nothing is more astonishing 
 than the mental and physical change that he himself experi- 
 ences. The pale and languid victim of the sultry plains is 
 surprised at the sudden return of his lost appetite and the 
 delightful glow that pervades the system, marking the return 
 of the warm tints of health. A few days effect a still greater 
 change ; the muscles become firm, the limbs gain vigour, and, 
 above all, the rising spirits rapidly dispel the clouds of de- 
 pression and invest existence with new delight. AH this is due 
 to the wonderful influence of the pure mountain air. Such was 
 the experience of Sir Samuel leaker, the mighty hunter and 
 explorer, so far back as fifty years ago. After shooting in the 
 lowlands for about a year he was reduced to a mere shadow by 
 an attack of jungle fever. As soon as he was able to endure 
 the journey he was sent by his doctor to Nuwara Eliya. \\'hat 
 better testimony of its invigorating influence is needed than 
 this? " A poor and miserable wretch I was upon my arrival 
 at this elevated station, suffering not only from the fever itself, 
 but from the feeling of an exquisite debility that creates an utter
 
 638. THE NEW KEENA HOTEL. 
 
 639. THE GOLF CLUB.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 499 
 
 hopelessness of the renewal of strength. I was only a fortnight L'dapussei- 
 at Nuwara Eliya. The rest-house was the perfection of every- '*^" Line 
 thing that was dirty and uncomfortable. 'Ihe toughest possible ''^"^"'■" ^-''J" 
 specimen of a beefsteak, black bread and potatoes, \\ere the 
 choicest and only viands obtainable for an invalid. There was 
 literally nothing else ; it was a land of starvation. But the 
 climate ! What c an I say to describe the wonderful effects of 
 such a pure and unpolluted air? Simply, that at the expiration 
 of a fortnight, in spite of the tough beef and the black bread 
 and potatoes, I was as well and as strong as I ever had been ; 
 and in proof of this, I started instanter for another shooting 
 excursion in the interior." 
 
 When w^e remember that Xuwara Eliya is only six degrees Climate 
 north of the equator, and no more than (5,240 feet above the 
 sea, the mean temperature, which is only 57° Fahrenheit, 
 appears extraordinarily low. There is no doubt that this is 
 mainly due to the geographical position of the island. Its 
 moderate dimensions expose it to the full influence of the 
 uniform temperature of the surrounding seas, while it is subject 
 to the direct rays of the sun only twelve hours out of tlie 
 tu cnty-four. The intense evaporation by day and the rapid 
 cooling by night are also two important factors in the climatic 
 peculiarities of the island. 
 
 Nuwara Eliya is an elliptical mountain xaUcy, the plateau Gcoi;raphUal 
 being 6,240 feet above sea-le\el and about eight miles in cir- f'"'""^ 
 cumference. It is surrounded by steep mountain ridges rising 
 to a height varying from a few hundred to two thousand feet 
 above the plain. There are four gaps — that on the north-east 
 leading into the Kotmale valley, that on the south-east to the 
 province of Uva, that on the west to the Dimbula \alley, and 
 that on the east to Kandapolla and Udapussellawa. The tops 
 themselves are for the most part thicklv wooded, and still con- 
 stitute faxouriti liaunts of the leopard and the elk. The plain 
 is charmingly undulated, and forms an admirable playground 
 for both residents and visitors. In this connection it boasts, 
 like so many other places, of the best golf-links out of Scotland, 
 and possesses an excellent race-course. 
 
 The bungalows of the residents are mostly built upon grassy 
 knolls at the foot of the mountains, and are surrounded by 
 choice gardens not unfreciuently bordered by hedgerows of 
 geraniums. Watci- ol unimpeachable purity Hows from the 
 heights over picturesque waterfalls of great beauty. .\ purling 
 stream babbles through the middle of the \alley, iinally losing 
 itscll in a lake wliiili is surroiiiidcd 1)\' a wt'll-const ru<'ted 
 (iii'nat^c (li'i\c. 
 
 riu' Xuwara season cxlcnds lidin Januarx to May, I'ach 
 month ha\ing a lair pioportion ul fine days, Eebruar}' being
 
 500 THI-: BOOK OF CRM.ON 
 
 Udnpiissei- tile lincst. On the whole, perhaps, March is the pleasantest. 
 
 lawu Line [im,. ;,nd Julv are the only months that should be altoi^ether 
 
 Nuwnra i:ii>a ;, voided on account of rain and wind. October is j^^enerally 
 \-erv wet. Hut let it not be supposed that the merits of Xuwara 
 VA'w.i ;is a liealtli resort disappear with the fine weather. It is 
 true that during; the second half of the year rainy days are 
 
 Its season prevalent, but the occasional bright spells intervening bring 
 
 the most glorious days of the year, and the worst that can be 
 said is that during this period it resembles a rather wet summer 
 in the Highlands of Scotland. Moderately w-arm days, with 
 a Scotch mist, followed by cool evenings that allure to the 
 cheerful fireside of a well-furnished and carpeted bungalow, 
 with intermittent days of sunshine, and a change within easy 
 distance to any temperate climate you may fancy, make up a 
 state of things not to be contemned even by those who arc in 
 a position to humour their every whim. 
 
 Nuwara Eliya, indeed, supplies not only the energy needed 
 for vigorous exercise, but provides also, in addition to its 
 sporting facilities, innumerable walks that are unequalled in 
 their attractions. Amongst them, the path to the summit of 
 
 PuhmitaUa^aiia Pidurutallagulla, 8,300 feet above the level of the sea, deserves 
 especial mention. 
 
 The ascent is easy and the reward great. From no other 
 mountain top in the world can you literally see over a whole 
 island of such extent and beauty as from this. From shore 
 to shore lie out-stretched in every direction forests and plains, 
 mountain ranges interlaced in intricate confusion, masses of 
 verdant patana lands, interspersed with glittering streams : 
 while the stillness of the profound solitude is broken only by 
 the sounds from mountain torrents in their wild rush over the 
 huge boulders in the rocky ravines. It is here, with the 
 accumulated impressions of the whole journey from the coast 
 to the highest point of the highlands fresh in his mind, that 
 the traveller confers on Ceylon the title of " the show place of 
 the universe. " 
 
 The journey to the top is about four miles, and a very good 
 two and a half hours' walk. The glorious exhilaration of the 
 pure and bracing air encourages residents in Xuwara Eliya to 
 make frequent excursions on this account alone. The prospect 
 varies so much under different atmospheric conditions that 
 every fresh trip is amplv rewarded bv the ever-changing scenes 
 that meet the gaze, while the cloud studies surpass even those 
 of Alpine countries. 
 
 But grandest of all is that beautiful scene which heralds the 
 approach of day. To stand upon the highest point of this 
 sea-girt land, with the shadowed sky above and brooding dark- 
 ness below, there to watch the rosv-fingered dawn cast her
 
 lawa Line 
 Nuwara Eliya 
 
 I'iJunila!lat;aUii 
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 503 
 
 first rays upon the thousand peaks that begin to peep throuy^h L'dapussei- 
 
 the snowy mists which yet enshroud the low-lying valleys, is 
 
 an experience well worth the surrender of a few hours of 
 
 sleep and an occasional fright at midnight forest sounds which 
 
 betoken the proximity of some denizen of the jungle. The 
 
 first glimmer of light reveals snowy masses of mist as far as 
 
 the eye can scan, right away to the ocean east and west, with 
 
 lighted peaks peering through the veil resembling laughing 
 
 islands dotting a sea of foam. Then as the dawn breaks a 
 
 golden tint gradually appears over the hills, and when the sun 
 
 bursts over the horizon a rapid transformation takes place. 
 
 The petrified surf of the mists now begins to move upwards, 
 
 and reveals with vivid clearness the valleys all fresh from 
 
 their repose. The dewy leaves of the forest trees and the 
 
 trails of beautiful moss which cling to their branches glisten 
 
 with tints of gold, the moistened rocks sparkle with diamonds, 
 
 and all nature rejoices at the new-born day. 
 
 As the sun rises higher the nearer slopes become more 
 distinct, and the distant ranges are clearly visible right away 
 to Adam's Peak. The intermediate range of the Great Western 
 (7,264 feet), five miles west of Xuwara Eliya, and Talankanda 
 range (6,137 feet), dividing the tea-growing districts of Dim- 
 bula and Dickoya, are seen most clearly as the rays of the 
 sun gain power. 
 
 Xuwara Eliya is lying at our feet. The whole plain glistens 
 with hoar frost or sparkling dew ; the river, like a silver streak, 
 winds its course to the Hakgalla gorge, and for a great dis- 
 tance ranges of forest-clad mountains alternate with waving 
 plains. The nearest range is that called after One Tree Hill, 
 then comes the Elk Plains range, the next is a mountain of 
 the Agra Patana district, and the lofty range in the distance 
 is that of Horton Plains. The tops of all these ranges are 
 clothed with forests, while rolling patanas cover the ridges 
 between. 
 
 As we descend in the broadening dav we notice the great 
 contrast between the character of the Pidurutallagalla forest 
 and that of the lowlands. Instead of waving palms we see 
 weird trees with gnarled trunks and forked boughs, festooned 
 with long beards of lichen and orange moss. Many of the 
 trunks are clothed with rich green creepers and adorned with 
 the fantastic blooms of native orchids, and parasites innumer- 
 able bedeck the upper branches with strangest flowers, while 
 the magnificent Rliododeudron arborcu77t, with its great branches 
 and brilliant blossoms, appears everywhere as a common forest 
 tree. 
 
 An easy stroll of two miles I)rings us to the top of Xaseby 
 Hill, commanding a wonderful \ iew of the principal peaks of
 
 504 Till-: IU)()K ()I<" CK'SLOX 
 
 (Jdapussci- the island. On a clc'ir dav Adam's I'cak and Namuna- 
 
 lawu Line Ivulakanda arc botli distinctively \isiblc, althoug-h distant from 
 
 Nuwarai-iiyu ^..j^,,^ ^^^^^^ forty-scvcn miles in a direct line. But the chief 
 
 feature is the charming- character of the scenery immediately 
 
 surrounding- the tea plantation which encircles the hill. 
 
 On the west the calm waters of the lake reflecting the 
 wooded liills and the lofty mountains recall memories of Ulls- 
 water. 
 Lovcii' Ltaf> Q,-j j|-,g p-^^j js; the precipitous shoulder of I'idurutallagalla, 
 
 known as I.overs' Leap, taking its name from the legend which 
 tells how a Kandyan prince became greatly attached to a 
 maiden of low caste. Upon the fact coming to the King's 
 knowledge, the lovers took to flight, and were pursued by 
 the I'Cing's soldiers to the mountain range of Pidurutallagalla. 
 Seeing no hope of escape, they preferred to be united in death 
 rather than in Hfe to be divided, and in sight of their pursuers, 
 locked in a last embrace, leapt from this precipice. 
 
 From Naseby we see the best outline of Hakgalla, and 
 obtain many pretty peeps across pataua and forest in the 
 direction of the Moon Plains. Visitors to Naseby estate are 
 made welcome to the factory, which is a new' one and equipped 
 most completely with the latest appliances for the manufac- 
 ture of tea ; and many are the people who, when in the Old 
 Country they sip the cup that cheers, think of the romantic 
 spot where they witnessed the manufacture of the leaf that 
 brews it. 
 Moon Plains Bcyond Xascbv is a pretty drive round the Moon Plains, 
 
 so called from the number of moonstones found there. The 
 forests are here diversified with pat ana land. The road round 
 the Moon Plains and across these patanas brings us to a 
 magnificent ravine, five hundred feet sheer down from the road. 
 This is the most beautifully wooded gorge in the "district. We 
 next come upon the Barrack Plains lake, which, owing to the 
 hills that surround it, resembles a loch of the Scotch Highlands. 
 Ramboddc Pass Before we Can be said to have taken a complete survey of 
 
 the general features of Xuwara Eliya we must take a walk to 
 the top of the northern gap or entrance to the Rambodde pass. 
 It is best for our purpose to walk, because such are the intricate 
 windings of the road that in rapid locomotion our attention is 
 apt to be diverted from the landscape to the dangers of our 
 immediate position. The golf links are first seen on our 
 right, and on the left the delightful grounds of the Governor's 
 residence. Thence we ascend by a steep gradient until the 
 top is reached and the descent to Rambodde begins. 
 
 Although the European community is small, it cannot be 
 said that life is in the least degree monotonous to those who 
 are fond of country pursuits. In addition to the wild sport of
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 507 
 
 the jungle, there are many distractions, such as cricket, golf, L'dapussei- 
 
 polo, hockey, and lawn-tennis. The lake is full of carp, and ''*^* ^'"'; 
 
 trout have been successfully introduced into the neighbouring "^ "«">■" i^''>^ 
 
 streams, licences to fish in which arc granted for any period. 
 
 The golf-links are now one of the chief attractions of the place, 
 
 and are the scene of many exciting contests. There is also Amusements 
 
 a well laid out race-course, and the Jymkhana is quite the event 
 
 of the year. All Colombo flocks to Xuwara Eliya for the races, 
 
 and the sporting fever extends even to the ladles, who vie with 
 
 one another in the latest Parisian confections. Every bungalow, 
 
 hotel, and club is taxed to its utmost capacity. Many who 
 
 cannot find accommodation ride daily into the station, distances 
 
 of twenty and even thirty miles not being considered too great 
 
 even when followed by a dance at the end of the day. The 
 
 invigorating mountain air seems to banish all fatigue, and 
 
 nowhere is there more fun crammed into a single week than 
 
 amongst the genial society and vivacious spirits to be found 
 
 in Xuwara l-^liya during the Jymkhana. 
 
 Hut of all the amusements in which Xuwara Eli\a indulges <'"'/ 
 we must award golf the first place, because it has the largest 
 number of votaries. That this should be so nobody wonders 
 who sees the links and realises what a perfect golfing climate 
 Xuwara VA'iya affords. For about six weeks out of the fifty-two 
 rain and wind seriously interfere, but for the rest of the time 
 there is nothing to detract from the full enjoyment of the game. 
 There are two links : one formed by the Xuwara I-lliya (iolf 
 Club, to which ladies are admitted on special days, and the other 
 a branch of the United Club for ladies and gentlemen. The 
 former offers one great contrast to the best links in the Old 
 Countrv in being charmingly picturesque. Its other points, 
 especially its hazards, are perhaps not quite orthodox ; but 
 whatever may be implied in the term " links " as conceived 
 bv the best authorities, or required by the traditions of the 
 game, golf in Xuwara P>liya has attractions and affords enjoy- 
 ment that nowhere else can be surpassed. 
 
 As we cross the river at various points on the course many Fhiiins 
 a fine trout may be seen awaiting the tl\ . The very successful 
 fishing club at Xuwara Eliya is bv no means the least of its 
 attractions to visitors, who can obtain licences for the day, 
 week or season. The cluh has leased from the Government 
 the fishing rights in all waters at an elevation of over five 
 thousand feet above sea level. 
 
 The United Club for ladles and gentlemen is a most sue- iniudciub 
 cessful institution. It includes a library, reading-room, ball- 
 room, concert hall, golf links, croquet and lawn tennis courts. 
 Its quarters are situated in the midst of its courts and links 
 and command exceedingly pretty views. There is an excellent
 
 5o8 THK ROOK OF CEYLON 
 
 luiapussel- crickct pitch in front of the club-house, and althouji^^h this once 
 hnva Line supremely popular game has to some extent suffered eclipse 
 Nuwurn Lhya jj^,-()^„.]^ ^\^^. introduction of golf and croquet, some first-rate 
 cricket is often played here. The sunny yet cool climate seems 
 to breed enthusiasm for sports and amusenn-nts of all kinds, 
 liumblepuppy jymkhanas are frequent, when the gentler sex 
 is especially to the fore in every sort of competition, from tilting 
 at the ring to the driving race of geckoes, porcupines and all 
 maimer of quaint animals. Dances at the club are frequent, 
 and indoor games with dances interspersed have been intro- 
 duced. The visitor for a short period has every opportunity of 
 joining in these amusements, and it is this welcome to the 
 stranger that I wish to impress upon those who have not visited 
 Ceylon. " You must come up the wonderful mountain railway 
 into the pure fresh air — away past Kandy, with its sacred 
 Ruddhist relics, away to the lily garden of Nuwara Eliya, where 
 the scenery is as beautiful as at the Engadine and the air as 
 pure as at St. Moritz. ... In all my travels I have not 
 met one single individual so far who has not voted enthusias- 
 tically for Ceylon as one of the most charming spots on earth." 
 Thus wrote Mr. Clement Scott fifteen years ago, and since that 
 time the attractions of Nuwara Ehya have greatly increased. 
 iiakgaiia We have already noticed the shallow gap on the mountain 
 
 heights, which forms the exit from Nuwara Eliya on the Uva 
 side. This gap leads to a lovely gorge, which extends to the 
 foot of the majestic Hakgalla, where the clouds descend in 
 saturating mist during the wet season. This is the most 
 interesting drive in the neighbourhood. For five miles the 
 descent is steep. The precipitous crags have been cut away 
 for the construction of the road, which in its winding course 
 affords grand views of deep wooded ravines, covered with tree 
 ferns in wonderful variety, and teeming with waterfalls. 
 
 Beneath the rock, which in its form and outline is one of 
 the notable things in Ceylon, nestle the Hakgalla Gardens. 
 While these gardens are no less than 5,400 feet above the sea, 
 this mighty crag towers above them to the height of a further 
 1,600 feet. Here is a spot famous for picnic breakfasts, usually 
 discussed in an arbour with an unbroken view of the plains 
 of Uva stretching far below. 
 
 The gardens, beautiful in themselves, owe much to their 
 situation, and are the seat of experiments in the acclimatisa- 
 tion of plants from temperate lands outside the tropics and 
 from the heights of other tropical countries. W^e are surprised 
 at the number of trees and shrubs, and the variety of fruits 
 and flowers that are rarely to be found in a tropical garden. 
 In addition to acclimatisation, the all-important work of ex- 
 tending and improving the various species of indigenous plants
 
 645 A SHELTERED CREEK IN HAKGALLA GARDENS.
 
 646. NATIVE TREE FERNS AT HAKGALLA.
 
 THE lK)OK OF CKM.ON 511 
 
 is carried on, in order that the natural resources of the country Ldapussel- 
 may be utilised to the best advantage. In this phice of practical '"^"Lme 
 science agricultural theories are translated into actual fact, and 
 provide invaluable material for the enteiprise and initiative of 
 the colonist. 
 
 Although the main purpose is kept strictly in view, the Hakgaiia 
 gardens are planned with such excellent taste, and the natural 
 features of their situation are so romantic and beautiful, that 
 they form a great attraction to the unscientific spectator. The 
 ornamental creeks and pools ; the shrubberies planted with trees 
 i)f varied foliage ; the trickling streams from the mountain 
 tops, with their fringes of native ferns ; the flametree blazing 
 above its trunk clad with cream-blossomed creepers ; rocky 
 beds covered with maidenhair ferns in the shade of spreading 
 trees with their lovely parasitic growth of orchids ; the hand- 
 some Finns longifolia, with its fourteen-inch leaves ; the hun- 
 dred kinds of roses ; the giant banana ; and even the true 
 English oak, as a good omen, keeping in countenance British 
 enterprise in this far-off land — these are a few of the many 
 features of unfailing interest to the casual observer. 
 
 In the body of the fernery the native tree ferns {Ahophila 
 cri/n/d), for which these gardens are celebrated, form a striking 
 group. The trunks are mostly eighteen to twenty feet high, 
 and the spreading fronds fifteen to twenty feet across. This 
 species is one of the most stately and graceful of tree ferns, 
 and fine specimens are to be seen in everv ravine. The uncx- 
 paiided fronds are a favourite food of the wild elephant, whii-h 
 inhabits this locality in great numbers. In one respect this 
 fern resembles the cocoanut palm — it grows from the crown, 
 and the lower fronds die off as the new ones appear above. 
 Until they die off, they hang down the stem of the tree as in 
 the cocoanut, but with this difference, that whereas the frond 
 of the latter comes away entirely, leaving a ring mark upon 
 the trunk, the frond of the tree fern breaks off, leaving the base 
 of the stem on the pithv trunk as a sort of protection. 
 
 K.\Nn.\i'Oi..\ (i2ni. 33c.).- Kaiuiapola station, 6,316 feet Kandapoia 
 above sea level, has the distinction of being situated at the 
 highest elevation reached by the Ceylon Government Railway. 
 It marks the entrance into the planting district of L'dapussel- 
 lawa, which, although in the central province, is really part 
 of the great mountain ledge popularly known as the l'\a 
 country, and is subject to the same conditions of climate as 
 Haputale and Bandarawela which we have already described. 
 So that in the wet season of Xuwara Eliya a dry and sunny 
 climate is very near at hand, being easily accessible by a short 
 railway journey. Tlie line to Kandapoia leaves Xuwara I-!Iiya
 
 512 
 
 Till': nOOK OF CKM.ON 
 
 Udapusset- 
 luwa Line 
 Kandapola 
 
 0,311! Jill 
 
 Brookside 
 
 4,981 fid 
 
 Ragalla 
 
 5, 818 feet 
 
 by the eastern g'ap, crosses the Barrack Plains, and winds up 
 a steep incline, sharintf the carriajije road for the g^reater part 
 ol the distance. 
 
 On our way thither we shall pass throuj^h some estates 
 which, notwithstanding^ their g^reat elevation, are famous alike 
 for their yield and the fine quality of their tea : Pedro after the 
 famous mountain where it is situated, Lovers' Leap after the 
 legfend to which we have already made reference, Portswood, 
 and other estates of the Nuwara Eliya Company are all seen 
 earning- their large dividends, the bushes seeming" to enjoy the 
 cool atmosphere much more than do the miserable pluckers, 
 who, partially unclad, and by nature suited to withstand ex- 
 treme heat rather than cold, must in these altitudes suffer g-reat 
 discomfort as compared with their fellow-workers in the lower 
 and warmer districts. But no sooner do we pass throug^h the 
 g-ap into the LIva country than the temperature seems milder. 
 Our view (plate 649) is taken at the very entrance to the district. 
 The belts of gums and g-revilleas which seem to divide the 
 estates into fields as do the hedges in the Old Country, indicate 
 the frequent prevalence of high winds, the effects of which, on 
 the tea, they are grown to minimise. We are soon aware that 
 the tea plant has here found a home that suits its requirements. 
 St. John's Estate, through which we are passing, is a very 
 picture of luscious hill-grown tea. It has some magnificent 
 bushes, the finest of which measures sixteen feet in diameter. 
 
 Brookside (i6m. 45c.). — Between Kandapola and Brookside 
 the line descends thirteen hundred feet in four miles. This 
 station serves the estates around it, but has no special interest 
 for the visitor. The line again ascends as Ragalla is reached. 
 
 Ragalla (19m. 17c.). — Ragalla is at present (1907) the 
 terminus of this line which will doubtless some day be carried 
 much farther. Here there is a rest-house with the usual 
 appointments, where visitors can obtain food and lodging. 
 
 Visitors making a prolonged stay in Nuwara Eliya will find 
 a trip to Ragalla quite worth while. A whole day at least 
 should be given to it, and a walk or cycle ride should be taken 
 for a further four or five miles upon the carriage road that runs 
 through the district to the eastern end of the mountain ledge. 
 The scenery is exquisite, and in fine weather the atmosphere 
 is dry and bracing, while the temperature admits of brisk 
 exercise. 
 
 Those who live upon the few tea estates that extend to the 
 very edge of these highlands where the descent to the heated 
 plains of the low country is abrupt and precipitous are fre- 
 quently witnesses of atmospheric phenomena that are at once 
 terrible and magnificent. The sun is shining upon the smiling
 
 647. KANDAPOLA STATION 6,316 FEET ABOVE 
 SEA LEVEL 
 
 648. THE UDAPUSSELLAWA RAILWAY NEAR
 
 514 
 
 Tin-: I?()()K ()]• CKYLON 
 
 Udiipusscl- 
 luwu l.inc 
 
 i,^arden.s of Ita at an <.Il\ atioii of five thousand feet from which 
 the spectator sees the olive i^reen patanas in soft and sym- 
 metrical curves rolling away to the borders of the tender green 
 paddy fields of the lower slopes. Away in the distance lies the 
 iiintennc country with its undulated land of forest and jungle, 
 the retreat of the elephant, leopard and bear, and stretching 
 away in a blue haze to the sea coast. Deep violet shadows are 
 playing upon the lower foothills in constantly changing forms 
 as masses of cloud pass over them. Presently the vapours 
 gather in dense masses enshrouding in semi-darkness one 
 sec|uestered valley. Suddenly a streak of fire passes through 
 the leaden sky, a faint rumbling reaches our ears, the darkened 
 mass momentarily changes to a lurid glow only to appear more 
 blackened by the flame. Then, as if a vast cistern were sud- 
 denly perforated in a myriad places it simply " rains ramrods " 
 for a quarter of an hour, the frequent flashes of vivid lightning 
 affording the spectator a view of the deluge descending upon 
 the little valley whose vegetation recovers from the bombard- 
 ment almost as suddenly as it had been attacked, and thrives 
 amazingly as the result ; for although not very distant from 
 the cool and bracing region from which it has been witnessed, 
 that little dale is a veritable hothouse.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON. 
 
 PART III. 
 
 1 1 i E N O R 1^ H K R N IM^ O \ 1 N C E S . 
 
 THE NORTIIKRX LINK ITIXKRARV. 
 
 From Polcjahawki.a Junction to Kan(>i:santl rai. 
 
 ''I^HE nortluTii line which Ijranchcs off from the m;un line at ^"rtiicrn 
 J- Poli^-.'ihawela affords the traveller every facility for visitiiii; 
 the chief of Ceylon's antiquities, its oldest ruined city Anurad- 
 hapura ; il also renders easily accessible the interesting" penin- 
 sula of Jaffna, until quite recently so isolated from the capital 
 that communication was possible only by sea or a most imcom- 
 fortal}]e three or four days' journey by cart road. But the 
 interest of the visitor centres in tlie supreme attraction of 
 Anuradhapura, whose remains ari', as we shall sec later, 
 among'st the greatest wonders of the world. 
 
 The itinerary from Colombo to Polgahawela has already 
 been described, and we shall now procn-ed to the lirst station 
 of the northern brain li. 
 
 PoTUiiKKA (7m. 53c.).- It will be sulViciently evident that I'otuhcra 
 we are here ag^ain in the midst of tea, cacao, arecas, cocoanuts, 
 paddy, betel, kurakkan, tamarinds, plantains, limes and sweet 
 potatoes. We see them all lloiuMshing- in the native gardens, 
 and especiallv the plantains, tons of which are tiaily despatched 
 to distant markets. The \illage is a \ery small one ; but 
 boasts of a large number of ancient 7vi/idri's due to the circum- 
 stance that Kurunegala, onlv six miles distant, became the se.at 
 of g-overnment after the linal overthrow of i'olonnaruw a in the 
 earlv part of the fourteenth century.
 
 5i6 TIIK T500K OF CKM.ON 
 
 Northern Line Ki?RUXEGALA (13m. 15C.).- K urunc^ala is now tlic capital 
 Kurunegala of the North Western Province, and llie centre of an important 
 agricultural district, which has during the last twenty years 
 risen by leaps and bounds to a condition of great prosperity. 
 Not only has the capitalist greatly extended the cultivation of 
 cocoanuts where a few years ago all was jungle inhabited only 
 by the elephant ; but the villager, stimulated bv example and 
 the encouragement of a paternal government, has awakened 
 to the prolific possibilities of his higher lands, and has added 
 other products to his hitherto exclusive paddy cultivation. The 
 result is not only a great increase of wealth ; but a decided 
 Improvement in health also ; for Kurunegala was not many 
 years ago dreaded for its own special type of malarial fever 
 that almost always attacked the new-comer and which greatly 
 distressed the natives during the dry weather immediately 
 following on the rains, when vegetation rotted in the swamps. 
 Now that so much of the country has been cleared of its rank 
 vegetation for cultivation great improvement is manifest, and 
 it is hoped that in course of time Kurunegala fever will be 
 unknown. The town, which has a population of about 7,000, 
 is beautifully situated and possesses an ornamental lake of 
 about one hundred acres. The fine residence of the Govern- 
 ment Agent, still known as the Maligawa (palace), is on the 
 site of the ancient royal palace. A few years ago its grounds 
 were strewn with remains of the original building ; but the 
 most interesting of them have now been deposited in the 
 Colombo museum. 
 
 The natural features of Kurunegala are extremely pic- 
 turesque, and possess some characteristics that are peculiar. 
 Behind the town there stretches for some miles a series of 
 enormous rocks rising to upwards of eight hundred feet from 
 the plain. They are eight in number, and six of them bear 
 distinctive names of animals which their curious shapes have 
 been supposed to represent. These are the Elephant, Tortoise, 
 Beetle, Eel, Goat and Crocodile. There are also two others 
 known as the Gonlgala or Sack rock, and the Yakdessagala 
 or She-demon's Curse ; the latter rising to 1,712 feet above sea 
 level.* 
 
 These rocks doubtless Influence In some degree the tempera- 
 ture of the air at Kurunegala ; but less than is generally 
 supposed. The heat is very much the same as at Colombo, 
 averaging 80° Fahr. The most interesting of the rocks may 
 l)e climbed, and the reward Is commensurate with the effort 
 
 * The subject of these curious rocks is dealt with at length by Mr. 
 Frank H. Modder. F.R.G.S.. in the Royal Asiatic Society's Journal (Ceylon 
 branch), Vol. XL, No. 40. Also see Handbook to Kurunegala by the same 
 author.
 
 650. THE PROLIFIC POSSIBILITIES OF THE LAND. 
 
 b:j1 KURUNbi. 
 
 . [ I . t 
 
 '\H THE DISTRICT COURT.
 
 5i8 TIIK BOOK OF C'F^M^OX 
 
 Northern Line demanded, the surrounding country exhibiting- its tropical flora 
 Kuruncfjaia ^^ better advantag-e than when seen from the g-reater heights. 
 On the Tortoise rock (Ibbagala), which is approached from 
 the Kachcheri within the town, there is an interesting temple 
 situated beneath an overhang-ing- ledge ; a portion of the rock 
 does duty as the roof and is gorgeously painted with the 
 Buddhist conventional portraits, flowers, and various other 
 designs. The temple contains a large number of images of the 
 Buddha and his disciples. In the precincts are a dagaha and a 
 copy of the impression of Buddha's footprint upon Adam's Peak. 
 Kuvcni The Elephant rock (Etagala), which adjoins the Tortoise, 
 
 is the favourite resort of visitors and residents alike. It affords 
 delightful views of the town, the lake and the more distant 
 country. While all these rocks have their legends and tradi- 
 tions none exceeds in historical interest the She-demon's Curse 
 (Vakdessagala), the last and most striking of the whole series. 
 Upon this solitary eminence which rises seventeen hundred feet 
 above the level of the sea, native imagination places the tragic 
 scene of Kuveni calling upon the gods to avenge her. The 
 spot is worthy of the story. Wijaya, the first king of the great 
 dynasty which had its beginning in the sixth century before this 
 era, having been expelled from the court of his father, a king 
 whose principality was on the adjoining continent, came to 
 Ceylon with a large following as a wandering prince. Here 
 he espoused Kuveni, a princess of the Yakkhos or aboriginal 
 inhabitants by whose aid he was installed in the sovereignty 
 of the island. With cruel ingratitude he then discarded Kuveni 
 in favour of an Indian princess. The forsaken queen re- 
 proached him with the following agonising lamentation : 
 " When shipwrecked and forlorn I found thee and thy 
 followers food and accommodation. I aided thee in defeat- 
 ing the Yakkhos and in rising to be king. Swearing fidelity, 
 thou tookest me as thy spouse. Didst thou not then know^ 
 that I was a Yakkini? Loving thee with an unquenchable 
 love, I bore thee children. How canst thou separate from 
 me to-day and transfer thy affections to another? The mild 
 rays of the rising full moon are now to me like the blaze of 
 a heated iron ; the once cool and spicy breeze from the sandal 
 forest is hot and unwelcome to me ; the bed once spread \vith 
 fragrant flowers is covered with briars and thorns ; even the 
 sweet song of the kokila pierces my ear as with a spear. 
 Alas! how can I soothe my troubled breast?" With this 
 lamentation she entered the forest, and ascending to the peak 
 of Yakdessagala in agonised shrieks called upon the gods to 
 avenge her wrongs. Kuveni upon the embattled peak with 
 outstretched hand supplicating the gods is a fine situation and 
 is a credit to Sinhalese invention.
 
 652. KURUNEG- 
 
 ELEPHANT ROCK. 
 
 KURUNEGALA: ELEPHANT ROCK FROM THE LAKE.
 
 654. GANEWATTE STATION. 
 
 655. BULLC„.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 521 
 
 Wellawa (19m. i8c.). — At Wellawa the aspect of the Northern 
 country already beijins to change, and products that we have '-'"•-' 
 not hitherto met with are noticed ; amongst them tobacco and ^^*-"""^ 
 hemp. The village of about 1,500 inhabitants is under a 
 Ratemahatmaya who pays a monthly visit of inspection, while 
 minor judicial causes are dealt with by a Gansabawa president 
 at fortnightly sessions. The landscape is enriched by the 
 Yakdessagala, to which we have referred, and Dolukanda peak. 
 Fair sport in snipe, deer and hare may be obtained. The neat 
 little railway station of two stories, with its flower garden 
 extending along the platform, will be noticed. 
 
 Ganewatte (26m. 39c.). — As we approach Ganewatte the Qanewatte 
 little paddy farms, which have been observed amongst the 
 greater stretches of waste land covered with natural jungle, 
 gradually become fewer, and it is evident that we are enter- 
 ing a sparsely populated region. There is a rest-house at 
 Miripitiya, about a mile from the station, which is useful to 
 the sportsman. It is, however, necessary to order provisions 
 in advance or take them. 
 
 For about twelve miles from Ganewatte the countrv on 
 either side of the railway appears to be waterless and uncul- 
 tivated, until about four miles from Maho a large pond is 
 passed. Here the signs of life are storks and water fowl. 
 Paddy fields again appear, and cart roads are in evidence on 
 both sides of the line suggesting a centre of some importance 
 amongst the wilds. 
 
 IMaho (40m. 3c.). — The railway here brings within easv Maho 
 reach of the antiquarian the remains of another royal citv, 
 \'apahuwa, which is situated about three miles from Maho 
 station. Vapahuwa was the retreat of the reigning sovereign 
 Bhuvaneka Bahu I. after the downfall of Polonnaruwa, and 
 remained the capital for eleven years from 1303. The most 
 interesting of the remains have been removed to the Colombo 
 nuist'uni, and amongst them a stone window with forty-five 
 circular perforations within Avhich arc sculptured svmbols and 
 figures of dancers and animals, the whole being carved out 
 of a single slab of granite. It shows the great artistic skill 
 of the period and gives a clue to the lavish architectural decora- 
 tion employed in beautifying the city, notwithstanding the 
 troublous times. But Vapahuwa soon met with a fate even 
 worse than Polonnaruwa ; for the Pandyan invaders not only 
 o\'erthrew it, but captured and carried off to India the national 
 palladium, the tooth of Buddha. 
 
 Travellers can obtain single or double bullock carts at 
 Maho at \ery moderate rates of hire. The only accommodation 
 in the neighbourhood is the rest-house at Brilalla about three
 
 52: 
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Northern Line milcs disl;iiil. It is ncccssary to take what fofxl may he 
 required (;r order it in ad\ancc. The cHmate heiii<^ exceedingly 
 hot a plentiful supply of aerated waters should also be taken 
 as the water of the district is not always to be trusted. 
 
 Ambanpola Amhani'Ola (47m. 2IC.).- — As We approach Ambanpola the 
 
 dense scrub g-ives place to more open country and the forest 
 trees become finer. Upon reaching" the river Mioya over which 
 we pass upon approaching Galgamuwa some excellent timber 
 will be noticed, indicating increased fertility due to a more 
 ample supply of water. But upon proceeding further north we 
 are soon again In stunted scrub which renders the journey 
 monotonous as compared with our experiences on the railways 
 further south. 
 
 GaiganiMwa Galgamuwa (53m. 40C.). — The country around Galgamuwa 
 
 abounds In artificial lakes or tanks constructed for purposes 
 of Irrigation, one of which will be noticed quite close to the 
 station. By means of these a considerable acreage of land 
 Is brought under cultivation ; the products are, however, quite 
 different from those with which we are already familiar, the 
 chief of them being gingclly, chillies, kurrakan, gram and 
 cotton. There are eighteen irrigation tanks In the neighbour- 
 hood, around and about which birds are plentiful ; snipe, golden 
 plover and teal affording- good sport. Large game too abounds 
 In the forest, Including leopard, deer, pig, elephant, and bear. 
 There Is a rest-house within a mile of the station where the 
 traveller will find the usual accommodation. Provisions should 
 be taken or ordered In advance. 
 
 Taiawa Talawa (71m. 75c.). — Talawa has no special interest for the 
 
 visitor, and no accommodation beyond that afforded by the 
 railway station. Its possibilities in the direction of cotton cul- 
 ture are being put to the test by the government, who ha^"e 
 established an experimental station here. 
 
 Anuradhapur^ Anuradhapura (8im. 2IC.). — Anuradhapura Is the capital 
 
 of the North Central Province and the seat of a Government 
 Agent ; but beyond this it is a place of supreme interest to 
 the visitor and is consecjuently provided with considerable 
 accommodation for the traveller. The rest-house Is spacious 
 and comfortable, and a good hotel has recently been added. 
 It cannot, however, be said that these are sufTicIent at all times, 
 and it is quite necessarv for the intending visitor to secure 
 rooms before proceeding on the journey. Professional guides 
 and conveyances may be obtained. 
 
 The city is on a level plain, about three hundred feet above 
 the sea, and possesses a warm but not uncomfortable climate, 
 the mean temperature being 80° Fahr. The rains extend from
 
 ANUR ADHA PURA 
 
 Map showing the positions of the 
 Principal Ruins.
 
 524 
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 AnurddhApurd Octobcr lo December. January is often a very pleasant month, 
 but liable to showers. February is generally most pleasant, 
 while March and April are rather warmer. Fine weather and 
 wind characterise the months of July and Aug'ust. But the 
 weather seldom interferes with the visitor, as even in llie wet 
 season fine intervals are frequent and enjoyable. 
 
 Jhecity^°^ The account of Anuraclh;ii)ura given in these pages is in- 
 
 tended mainly to excite the interest of the traveller or to 
 quicken that which has already been aroused before he pro- 
 ceeds to make a personal acquaintance with the ruins. It is 
 mainly extracted from my previous work upon the subject,* 
 which has so far justified its existence that I am encouraged 
 here to repeat the story as far as space will admit. 
 
 For guidance and reference in making the round of the 
 antiquities of this whilom mighty capital the tourist should 
 obtain the excellent little manual entitled " A Guide to the 
 Ancient Capitals of Ceylon," by Mr. John vStill, the Assistant 
 Archaeological Commissioner of Ceylon, which is locally pro- 
 curable. It is an invaluable work that will enlighten the tourist 
 upon details about which he may be curious and direct him to 
 many interesting spots beyond the scope of this book. It con- 
 tains, moreover, a concise but charmingly written history of 
 the ancient Sinhalese nation. 
 
 iVcnPns^ The history of Anuradhapura is intimately connected with 
 
 the religion of Buddha, and the building of the monuments 
 which we are about to survey was directly due to the adoption 
 of that cult by the Sinhalese nation in the third century before 
 Christ. With the prior condition of the country we shall 
 concern ourselves only so far as to inquire who or of what race 
 were the Sinhalese, and what were the circumstances that led 
 to their unanimous reception of a new creed with such fervour 
 as is evidenced by the remains of their sacred buildings and 
 literature. 
 
 The aborigines Before the dawn of civilisation in India, when as yet the 
 
 Sanskrit speaking Aryans of the north had not emerged from 
 obscurity, the whole country was peopled by half-savage races 
 in various stages of barbarism. Some of these aborigines 
 settled in Ceylon, where a few scattered tribes even still remain. 
 Shunning every opportunity of contact with other races, they 
 still dwell in the forest, where they live on the produce of the 
 chase, display the most elementary notions of religion in the 
 form of snake and demon w'orship, and exercise powers of 
 reason very little superior to those of the lower animals with 
 whom they share the rocks and caves of districts otherwise 
 forsaken. Thev are referred to in the ancient literature of the 
 
 * "The Ruined Cities of Ceylon." by Henry W. Cave, M.A., F.R.G.S., 
 M.R.A.S., 4th edition. Hutchinson & Co., London, 1907.
 
 THE BOOK OF Cr:M.O\ 525 
 
 country with much contempt as Vakkas, or barbarians. Their Anuradhapura 
 
 conquerors seem to have forced them to skive kibour on the 
 
 tanks constructed in very early times, but there is no reference 
 
 to them after the third century a.d., and it may be inferred 
 
 from this and tlie exi kisivc barbarous condition of the small 
 
 remnants of the tribe that they became entirely cut off from 
 
 the Sinhalese after a short period of subjection. 
 
 A few categorical statements regarding the origin of the OriKmo/the 
 Sinhalese race will serve our purpose better than the introduc- ■^"''"''"' 
 tion of debatable matter and the myths of the early chronicles. 
 The Sinhakse were Aryan settlers from Xorth-Central India, 
 and their language was closely affiliated to Pali, a dialect of 
 the Sanskrit which was cultivated by the Aryan invaders of 
 Central India. They settled in Ceylon some centuries before 
 the Buddhist conversion. We know little of their history at 
 this early period; for although the ancient chroniclers professed 
 acquaintance with the minutest details relating to their arrival 
 and settlement in the island, the accounts given are purely 
 mythical. The Mah ^wn n sn , a native chronicle that gives many 
 valuable and interesting accounts of later times, indulges in 
 extravagant legends in dealing with the national history 
 anterior to the third century B.C. It begins with the story of 
 the arrival of Wijaya, a Sinhalese prince, who with his fol- 
 lowers is made the hero of ad\entures so similar to those of 
 Ulysses and Circe in the Odyssey that the chronicler has by 
 some been supposed to have been acquainted with the Homeric 
 poems. 
 
 Fortunately, howcxcr, we arri\e on further ground early 
 enough for our purpose of tracing the history of the ancient 
 cities, and all that we need to notice of times prior to their 
 foundation is the simple fact that the Sinhalese were in 
 possession of the country, much of which they had brought 
 under cultivation, aided by works of irrigation, an art which 
 they appear to have acquired in prehistoric times. It is safe, 
 moreover, to assume that for some centuries before the arrival 
 of Mahinda, who brought them tidings of the new religion 
 about the year n.v. 307, they had developed resources \\hi(-h 
 were soon to be employed in the building of those great cities, 
 the remains of which we ha\e discovered two thousand years 
 later, and which will take their place among the greatest 
 wonders of the world. 
 
 Lastly, it may be safely asserted that the national religion 
 pr('\i(nis lo the introduction of Buddhism was Brahman. 
 
 ll is, linwcNcr, a great lliin;^ llial tlir period of the erection 
 of the buiklings whose remains now stand before us falls within 
 the domain of authentic history. Not a single building or 
 sculptured stone has been found that does not come within tliis
 
 526 'riii-: I'.ooK oi'" CI':^■LC)N 
 
 Anuradhdpurd period, ;iih1 It is rcnia rk;i1)Ic lli;i1 in India no relic ol ancient 
 archilecUirc has been discoMrcd (^1 a dale anterior to that ol 
 the ruined cities of Ceylon, while the history of the latter is 
 infinitely clearer and more reliable than that of the adjoining 
 continent, a circumstance due to the careful preservation by the 
 vSinhalese of the olas on which the c\'cnts of ver\- carK- limes 
 were inscribed. 
 
 Mihintale Mihintale first claims our attention because here bej^an the 
 
 Huddhist inlluence, the efficient cause of all the constructive 
 energy which the Sinhalese displayed in the erection of their 
 vast cities and monuments, liight miles to the east of the 
 sacred part of the city of Anuradhapura. the rocky mountain, 
 now called Mihintale, rises abruptly from the plain to the 
 height of a thousand feet. Its slopes are now covered with 
 dense forest from the base almost to the summit, with the 
 exception of the space occupied by a grand stairway of granite 
 slabs which lead from the level plain to the highest peak. 
 These steps, one thousand eight hundred and forty in number, 
 render easy an ascent which must have been originally very 
 toilsome. They are laid on the eastern side, which is the least 
 steep, the southern face being almost precipitous. Our illus- 
 trations (Plates 663 and 658J depict one of the lower and the 
 topmost flights. The last hundred and fifty steps, as seen in 
 plate 658, are hewn in the solid rock, and at the top is visible 
 the north-east side of the ruined Etwehera dagaba. 
 
 At first sight this picture conveys only the impression of a 
 natural hill with precipitous sides covered with vegetation, and 
 were not curiosity aroused by the flight of steps and the robed 
 monk descending, the dagaba might easily escape notice. A 
 closer examination, however, reveals the existence of the ruined 
 edifice that crowns the summit of the mountain. Near it there 
 are other dagabas of great size. One, called the Maha Seya 
 (see Plate 659), is placed in a position whence grand views of 
 the surrounding country are obtained. The summit of this can 
 be reached by the adventurous climber, and the exertion, if not 
 the danger, is well repaid by the striking spectacle of the ruined 
 shrines of Anuradhapura rising above a sea of foliage, and the 
 glistening waters of the ancient artificial lakes relieving the 
 immense stretches of forest. For twenty centuries this mass of 
 brickwork defied the destructive tooth of time and the dis- 
 integrating forces of vegetable growth ; but a few years ago it 
 showed signs of collapse on the west face, and underwent some 
 repairs by the Ceylon Government. Our illustration presents 
 a near view from the south, showing the portion cleared of 
 vegetation and repaired. Some idea of the proportion of this 
 dagaba may be gathered by noticing that what appears to be 
 grass upon the upper portion of the structure is in reality a
 
 658. MIHINTALE.
 
 
 659. THE MAHA SEYA. 
 
 660. ROCK DWELLINGS,
 
 Till-: BOOK OI-- Ci:\LO\ 529 
 
 mass of forest trees that have grown iij) from seeds dropped %\ihintaie 
 by birds. 
 
 The whole mountain is literally eoxered with interesting; 
 remains saired to the memory of Mahinda, the ro\al apostle 
 of Buddha in Ce\lon, but Ijeforc proeeeding to explore them 
 an acquaintanee should be made with the mission of Mahinda, 
 as reeorded in the aneient writings. INIoreoxer, it mav not 
 be assumed with safety that every one who takes ujj this 
 volume is aequaintcd with the early history of Buddhism, 
 and consequently the story of Mahinda must be prefaced 
 b}' a brief account of the origin of the cult which he intro- 
 duced, and of the circumstances which led to its adojition 
 in Ceylon. 
 
 In the sixth century ua\ the Aryans already inhabited the The Aontu 
 valley of the Ganges, and were divided into \arious tribes, 
 one of the least of which was that of the Sakyans, who dwelt 
 some hundred miles north-cast of Benares. Of this race was 
 Gotama, the founder ol Buddhism, his father being chief of 
 the clan, which possessed an iniluence out of all proportion to 
 its number. Gotama very early chose the life of a mendicant, 
 left his home, and went on foot to l^enares to teach the prin- 
 ciples of his philosophy. His system appealed to the Indian 
 mind, and he soon obtained numerous followers. His doctrines 
 were accepted with enthusiasm, probably because they were 
 found to be better suited to the needs of the people of the time 
 than those hitherto prevailing. 
 
 A\bout two hundred miles cast of Benares were the states of 
 Magadha. Thither the fame of Gotama 's teaching soon spread, 
 and the king, Bimbisara, repairing to the presence of Gotama, 
 became a convert. This royal patronage soon led to the- wide 
 popularity of the religion of the Sakyan philosopher, and multi- 
 tudes including the most revered ascetics of the kingdcmi, 
 adopted its tenets. 
 
 \\'e have not much reason to discuss here the principles of BudAhism 
 ]>uddhism as introduced by Gotama, except for the purpose of 
 arriving at the origin of the iniluence which led to the building 
 of the sacred cities. It will, however, be useful to note brii'tlv 
 the main features of the s\ stem, which presupposes tin- doctrine 
 of transmigration. 
 
 A buddha is a being who has passed through countless lives 
 and has in each successive re-birth added something to his 
 merits, by which he ultimately becomes endowed with su|K'r- 
 natural powers. Upon attaining buddhahood, which is the 
 supreme phase of existence, the buddha is enabled to direct all 
 beings to the path that leads to final extinction. .\t his death 
 he ceases to exist ; but his precepts arc regarded as laws of 
 leligion. Buddhas appear onlv at intervals of time inconceiv-
 
 530 tiip: hook oI' c^:^■LO^I 
 
 Mlhintale ably Vast. 'I'hc broad outline of the lUuldha's teat liiiij^ is 
 jimUihist contained in llic lour doymas — 
 (i) J'vXistcnrc is sorrow; 
 
 (2) Desire lor existence is the cause of sorrow; 
 
 (3) The cessation of sorrow is effected by the eradication of 
 
 desire ; 
 
 (4) The way of li\ in<4 which leads to the extinction of sorrow 
 
 is the practice of right faith, right resolve, right 
 speech, right action, right living, right effort, right 
 rccollcctedness, and right meditation, according to the 
 example of the Buddha. 
 The effect of entirely eliminating desire is final extinction. 
 Unless existence is dissolved by the total destruction of desire 
 re-birth takes place, thus perpetuating sorrow; and, in propor- 
 tion as Buddhist precepts have been observed or disregarded, 
 so is the re-birth favourable or otherwise. The wicked suffer 
 retribution by unfavourable transmigration, and all beings 
 good or bad pass through an endless succession of lives unless 
 freed from existence by the attainment of a clear insight into 
 the causes of sorrow and the practice of the life that sets them 
 free. 
 
 These were the doctrines introduced by the Buddha in the 
 sixth century B.C. However they may be regarded to-day, 
 they were undoubtedly superior to those of Brahmanism, and 
 their ready adoption by millions of people shows how suited 
 they were to the Indian mind. 
 Magadha At the time of Gotama's death, about B.C. 477, the Magad- 
 
 han state was one of small prestige, but during the two 
 centuries that followed it became a powerful empire, with the 
 march of which the Sakyan's teaching kept time. The brother- 
 hoods formed by his followers during his lifetime practised the 
 course of life that he taught, and thus by example and tradition 
 the system spread and descended from one generation to 
 another. 
 
 Thc> great teacher left no writings to guide his adherents, 
 but soon after his death his teachings were collected under the 
 authority of Councils of the Community, and to these were 
 added the records of all his words and deeds that could be 
 garnered for the instruction and example of posterity. 
 
 In the early part of the third century B.C. the Greeks invaded 
 India, an event of no small importance to the future of Bud- 
 dhism. The Magadhan state receiA'ed the support of the 
 invaders, with the result that it soon became a mighty empire 
 embracing nearly the whole of India; and the ruler of this vast 
 domain, Asoka, was an earnest patron of Buddhism. He was 
 originally a Brahman, but upon his conversion he became a 
 verv zealot for the new faith, sending missionaries to manv
 
 THK HOOK OF CEVLOX 
 
 countries, and amongst them his son, Prince Mahinda, who was Mihintaie 
 sent to Ceylon, the field of labour to which his training was 
 especially directed. 
 
 The Sinhalese, as we have already said, were of the same The vwnanhs 
 race as the Magadhans, and it is reasonable to suppose that ^'oi"><""t Tissa 
 they spoke the same language. Moreover, the monarchs of 
 the two countries were on terms of friendship. Tissa, the 
 Sinhalese king, who had upon coming to the throne succeeded 
 to very great wealth, despatched ambassadors to his friend 
 Asoka with costly presents. That monarch, in acknowledging 
 the treasures, sent many valuable gifts to Tissa in return, 
 accompanied by the following exhortation : — " I have taken 
 refuge in Buddha, his religion, and his priesthood ; 1 have 
 avowed myself a devotee in the religion of the descendant of 
 Sakya. Ruler of men, imbuing thy mind with the conviction 
 of the truth of these supreme blessings, with unfeigned faith 
 do thou also take refuge in this salvation." 
 
 Upon this Mahinda proceeded to Ceylon to follow up the nahinJa 
 above message with personal appeals. His meeting with the ^'?'^^''''^'s ^''"g^ 
 king at Mihintaie is described in the Mahawansa with a wealth 
 of picturesque incident in which a sprinkling of signs and 
 wonders authenticates the importance of his mission. The 
 portion which bears the test of reason, and which from con- 
 temporary evidence may in substance be accepted, tells of 
 Mahinda's arrival upon the mountain of Mihintaie, accompanied 
 by a few monks. Here they met the king out hunting with a 
 large retinue, and Mahinda thus addressed his majesty: " \\"c 
 are the ministers and disciples of the Lord of the true faith : in 
 compassion for thee, Maharajah, we have repaired hither." 
 The king, recollecting the message of his friend Asoka, was 
 coiuiiiced that they were ministers of the faith. Laying aside 
 his bow and arrow, he conversed graciously with them. See- 
 ing the other members of the mission, he inquired, " Whence 
 come these? " " W'itli me," replied Mahinda. Then the king 
 asked if there were any other priests like unto them, to whith 
 Mahinda replied, " Janibudipa itself glitters with yellow robes; 
 there the disciples of Huddha, who have fully acquired the 
 three sanctifications, who are perfect masters of the knowledge 
 which procures bliss, the saints who have the gift of propheiv 
 and (li\ination, are numerous." For the purpose of ascertain- 
 ing the capacity of the king, Mahinda interrogated him; and as 
 he propounded question alter question the monarch solved 
 them satisfactorily. The king having been proved capable of 
 understanding, a discourse on Buddhist doctrine was delivered, 
 and he and his train were then and there converted. 
 
 King Tissa rejoices exceedingly to find that .Mahinda is the 
 son of his friend the emperor, and invites him to the tapital.
 
 53^ '\'^^\'' p.ooK oi" cp:ylon 
 
 Aiihintaic I licii lollows the conversion of the fjucen and her attendants 
 and tlic icccplion of Huddhisin by the whole nation. 
 
 Kcmains Wilh (his sketch of tile causes which led to tlie veneration 
 
 of the sacred localities and the foundation of their buildini,'-s, 
 we must resume our inspection of the remains at Mihintale. 
 Kini^ Tissa's conversion was commemorated by a great ivihare 
 or monastery erected on the very spot, and by the construction 
 of a larg-e number of monastic dwellings in the rock, the 
 remains of which arc amongst the most interesting features of 
 the mountain at this day. After the completion and establish- 
 ment of the monastery, the building of the grand stairway was 
 begun, and continued for generations by pious pilgrims. 
 Meanwhile many a shrine was added by successive monarchs 
 to the memory of the great Mahinda till the mountain was 
 literally covered with sacred buildings. In the solid granite 
 of the steeper slopes were engraved the instructions for the 
 priests, dealing with every detail of their life and every item of 
 ceremonial observance. 
 
 htscriptwiis These inscriptions, which are still legible, tell us that none 
 
 who destroyed life in any way were permitted to live near the 
 mountain ; special offices were allotted to various servants and 
 workmen ; accounts were to be strictly kept and examined at 
 an assembly of priests ; certain allowances of money to every 
 person engaged in the temple service were made for the 
 purchase of flowers, so that none might appear without an 
 offering; cells are assigned to the readers, expounders, and 
 preachers; hours of rising, of meditation, and of ablution are 
 prescribed ; careful attention to food and diet for the sick is 
 enjoined ; there are instructions to servants of every kind, 
 warders, receivers of revenue, clerks, watchmen, physicians, 
 surgeons, laundrymen, and others, the minuteness of detail 
 giving an excellent idea of the completeness of arrangement 
 for the orderly and beautiful keeping of the venerated locality. 
 
 Pokuna Amongst other interesting remains on the mountain is the 
 
 Naga Pokuna or snake bathing pool. This is hewn out of the 
 solid rock, and is one hundred and thirty feet in length and of 
 extremely picturesque appearance. On the rock which over- 
 hangs one side of the pool is an immense five-hooded cobra 
 carved in high relief. Having regard to the role of protector 
 assigned to the cobra in the ancient legend, this monster, with 
 his hood spreading fully six feet across, doubtless possessed 
 prophylactic virtues, which were assisted by the ceremonial 
 ablutions for which this weird and mysterious looking bath 
 was constructed (Plate 66i). 
 
 Amongst the best preserved relics is the Ambastala Dagaba 
 which enshrines the ashes of Mahinda, who ended his days on 
 the spot where his successful mission began. The shrine
 
 661. NAGA POKUNA. 
 
 662. THE AMBASTALA DAGABA.
 
 663. GRANITE STAIRWAY AT MIHINTALE.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 535 
 
 marks, it is said, the very piece of ground where tlie first meet- Mihintaie 
 ing of the monarch Tissa and the royal missionary took phice. 
 It is built of stone instead of the usual brick, and is surrounded 
 by fifty slender octagonal pillars with sculptured capitals. 
 
 In the \icinity of this dagaba a narrow path leads to one Mahinda'i 
 of the most interesting of all the ancient remains on the moun- " 
 tain, a rock-hewn couch, upon a narrow and precipitous ledge, 
 known as Mahinda's bed. Though there is nothing at first 
 sight to suggest repose, it may well be credited that to this 
 lonely spot the apostle was wont to retreat to renew in the con- 
 templation of the vista spread out beneath him that spiritual 
 lire that may have been burning- low after a prolonged contact 
 with the world. Certainly the view is one of majestic grandeur, 
 l^'or some hundreds of feet ledge after ledge supports huge fallen 
 boulders of granite, wliilc the forest below extends to the sea 
 in an expanse unbroken save by a few patches of rice which 
 pleasantly relie\e the monotony and add colour to the landscape. 
 
 We have exhausted all the space that can here be de\oted 
 to Mihintale; but the enthusiastic student of antiquities might 
 spend weeks in exploring the very numerous remains upon this 
 mountain, which at present has not been dealt with by the 
 Archa'ological Commission. The road from Anuradh;ipur;i is 
 good, and the rest-house affords comfortable accommodation. 
 Mihintale, moreover, appeals to the adxenturous spirit, for the 
 bear, the leopard, and the elephant inhabit its jungles, although 
 they are never seen upon the beaten track. 'J'he monks, how- 
 ever, who are silently preparing for Nirvana in the solitude of 
 the more distant cells, are not infrequently disturbed by the- 
 roar of the leopard, the trunipcting of the ilcpliant, or the 
 angry growl of the bear. 
 
 At Anurjidhapuni we shall see the remains of many build- M'litamtKn 
 ing-s which were erected by Tissa as a result of his conversion. 
 These will be found in that part of the city which was at the 
 time of Mahinda's \ isit the Mahamega, or king's pleasure 
 g^arden. The tradition is that the report of Himbisara, king 
 of Magadha, having presented his own pleasure g^arden to 
 Huddha and of its being- accepted by hirii foi- tlic use of the 
 priests had reached the ears of Tissa, and in imitation of this 
 pious example he dedicated the Mahamega to sacred purposes. 
 This garden of twcntx' square miles in extent was in the centre 
 of the io\,il r\\\\ Tbe gift \\,is iiiipdiiant, as signifving" the 
 royal protection extended to the new religion, and like all 
 matters of special interist it received much attention from the 
 ancient chronicler, as mav be seen b\- the lollowing I'Xiract 
 from the Mahawansa : — 
 
 " In the morning, notice lia\ing been previously gi\en by 
 beat of drums, the celebrated capital, the road to the tlicra's
 
 536 
 
 TITF P.OOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Gift of the 
 Mahamega 
 
 664. THE MAHAMEGA. OR KINGS PLEASURE GARDEN, 
 
 (chief priest's) residence, and the residence itself on all sides, 
 having- been decorated, the lord of chariots, decked in all the 
 insig-nia of royalty, seated in his chariot, attended by his 
 ministers and the women of the palace, and escorted by the 
 martial array of his realm, repaired to the temple constructed 
 by himself, accompanied by this g-reat procession. 
 
 " There, having- approached the tlicras worthy of venera- 
 tion and bowed down to them, proceeding- tog-ether with the 
 theras to the upper ferry of the river, he made his prog^ress, 
 ploug^hingf the ground with a g-olden plough to mark the limits 
 for the consecration. The superb state elephants, Mahapaduma 
 and Kunjara, were harnessed to the golden plough. Beginning 
 at the first Kuntamalaka, this monarch, sole ruler of the people, 
 accompanied by the theras, and attended by the four constituent 
 hosts of his military array, himself held the half of the plough. 
 
 " Surrounded by exquisitely painted vases, carried in pro- 
 cession, and gorgeous flags ; trays containing sandal dust ; 
 mirrors with gold and silver handles ; baskets borne down by 
 the weight of flowers ; triumphal arches made of plantain trees, 
 and females holding up umbrellas and other decorations ; 
 excited by the symphony of every kind of music ; encompassed
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHED FROM THE TOP OF THE ABHAYAGIRIVA DAGABA. 
 
 by the martial mig-ht of his empire ; overwhchncd by the shouts Dedication 
 of g"ratitude and festivity v/hich welcomed him from the four °{jj^„,, 
 quarters of the earth ; — this lord of the land made his pros^'ress, 
 ploughing' and exhibiting; furrows, amidst enthusiastic acrlama- 
 tions, hundreds of waving- handkerchiefs, and the exultations 
 produced by the presentation of superb offerings. 
 
 " The eminent saint, the Mahathera, distinctly fixed the 
 points defining- the boundary, as marked by the furrows made 
 by the king-'s ploug-h. Having- fixed the position for the 
 erection of thirty-two sacred edifices, as well as the Thuparama 
 chis^ahtt, and having, according to the forms already observed, 
 defined the inner boundaries thereof, this sanctified person on 
 that same day completed the defiriition of all the boundary lines. 
 At the completion of the junrtion of the sacred houndarv line 
 the earth quaked. " 
 
 Having- thus dedicated the royal precincts of the city to 
 relig^ious purposes, Tissa's next object was to hallow them by 
 the presence of a relic of the Huddha himself. 
 
 Here ag-ain we plunge into myth of the higlust order to 
 ohiain a g-rain or two of actual fact. We accept as authentic 
 the statement that the Thuparama was the first of the larg^e
 
 666. BIRDS EYE VIEW OF THE THUPARAMA. 
 
 667. THE THUPARAMA.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 539 
 
 shrines built upon this sacred ground, and that it was erected Anuradhilpura 
 
 by King- Tissa. It is quite Hkely, too, that he endeavoured to riu riiufummA 
 
 procure a true rehc of the Buddha, and that he sent to his '"dfu'reiic""'" 
 
 friend the Emperor Asoka to obtain one ; but a simple recital 
 
 of such a proceeding would be quite unworthy of the oldest 
 
 shrine in Ceylon ; and so Tissa is said to have had recourse to 
 
 supernatural means to obtain the needful relic, and to have 
 
 asked the gods themselves for the right collar bone of the 
 
 Buddha. A nephew of Mahinda was chosen for the mission, 
 
 and instructed to address the Emperor Asoka as follows : 
 
 " Maharajah, thine ally Tissa, now converted to the faith of 
 
 Buddha, is anxious to build a dai:;aba. Thou possessest many 
 
 corporeal relics of the Muni ; bestow some of those relics, and 
 
 the dish used at his meals by the divine teacher." He was 
 
 next to proceed to Sakka, the chief of the Devas, and thus 
 
 address him : " King of Devas, thou possessest the right canine 
 
 tooth relic, as well as the right collar bone relic, of the deity 
 
 worthily worshipped by the three worlds : continue to worship 
 
 that tooth relic, but bestow the collar bone of the divine teacher. 
 
 Lord of Devas ! demur not in matters involving the salvation 
 
 of the land of Lanka." The relic was surrendered by the gods 
 
 and conveyed to Anuradhapurji, where it performed many 
 
 miracles before it reached the receptacle in the Thuparama. 
 
 Its concluding feat was to rise from the back of the elephant 
 
 that conveyed it to the shrine to the height of five hundred 
 
 cubits, and thence display itself to the astonished populace, 
 
 whose hair stood on end at the sight of flames of lire and 
 
 streams of water issuing from it. 
 
 But it is not within our present purpose to quote all the 
 legends that embellish the history contained in the ancient 
 Sinhalese writings, and we must pass on to the shrine itself, 
 built by Tissa about the year B.C. 307. 
 
 This monument is in itself evidence of the remarkable skill 
 of architect, builder, and sculptor in Ceylon at a period anterior 
 to that of any existing monument on the mainland. The upper 
 portion of the structure has been renovated by the devotees of 
 modern times, but the carvings and other work of the lower 
 [portion remain untouched. All the Ceylon dcigabas are of this 
 bell shape, but their circumference varies from a few feet to 
 over eleven hundred, some of thein containing enough masonry 
 to build a town for twenty-five thousand inhabitants. The 
 Tluiparama is small compared with many of them, the dia- 
 meter of the bell being about forty feet and its height about sixty. 
 
 The portion of the basement immediatelv beneath the bell 
 is undoubtedly ancient. It consists of two stages ; the lower, 
 about three and a half feet high, is faced with dressed stone 
 and belted with bold mouldings ; the upper retires a couple
 
 54« 
 
 TIIIC HOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Anur^dhdpurA 
 
 rh( t Iniparaiiui 
 
 Monolithic 
 cistern 
 
 Pandu Orua 
 
 ol Ircl, ;iiul upon lli.it is a terrace six feet wide runiiini,'- right 
 rouiui the da^abci. The whole of the interior is believed to 
 be solid brick. Below the basement of the bell all has more 
 or less been buried in earth and debris, the accumulation of 
 ages ; excavation has, however, disclosed a circular platform 
 of about one hundred and sixty feet in diameter, raised to 
 about twelve feet above the original level of the ground. The 
 base of this platform, which is reached by two flights of stone 
 steps, is also of brick and is ornamented with bold mouldings 
 to a height of about five feet, and abo\e this the wall is sur- 
 rounded with semi-octagonal pilasters. 
 
 The most attractive feature of the dagaba, however, is the 
 arrangement of ornamental pillars on the platform. A large 
 number, as may be seen by a glance at our illustration (Plate 
 667), are still erect. They are all slender monoliths of elegant 
 proportions. The carvings of the capitals are singularly beau- 
 tiful ; they contain folial ornaments as well as grotesque figure- 
 sculptures, and are fringed to a depth of more than a foot with 
 tassels depending from the mouths of curious masks. These 
 pillars arc placed in four concentric circles, and decrease in 
 height as the circles expand, the innermost being twenty-three 
 feet and those of the outside circle fourteen feet high. 
 
 There has been a great deal of speculation as to the possible 
 structural use of these pillars. It is very likely that they served 
 some purpose besides that of mere ornament, but what that 
 was we are hardly likely now to discover, as no allusion is 
 made to them in any of the ancient chronicles. 
 
 Of the original one hundred and seventy-six pillars only 
 thirty-one remain now standing entire with their capitals. 
 
 Near the Thuparama there is a remarkably fine vessel 
 carved out of a single block of granite. Its size may be 
 estimated from the old Sinhalese woman who stands near it 
 in our picture. It is undoubtedly very ancient, but its use is 
 a matter of conjecture ; most probably it was a receptacle for 
 alms in the form of rice for the use of the priests. 
 
 In the vicinity lies another curious vessel, about seven feet 
 long, also hewn out of a single block. Its chief points are a 
 circular basin and a raised slab, and it is supposed to have 
 been used for dyeing the robes of the priests, being known as 
 a "pandu orua," or dyeing vat. The robes were placed in 
 the basin of yellow dye, and were afterwards spread upon the 
 slab and wrung out with wooden rollers. 
 
 The interesting ruins of the Dalada Maligawa, or Palace of 
 the Tooth, are within the original outer wall of the Thuparama 
 enclosure. This palace was built for the reception of Buddha's 
 tooth upon its arrival in Ceylon in a.d. 311, but we must first 
 remark upon other ruins of an older date.
 
 668. MONOLITHIC CISTERN. 
 
 DOy. PANUU UKUA I-UK UVtlNLi 
 
 OF THE MONKS.
 
 Bo.ln 
 
 542 THI-: HOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Anuriidhiipura Wc pass HOW to a rcHc which has perhaps attracted more 
 
 riuSciiici attention than any other — the sacred bo-tree. The royal con- 
 
 vert, King Tissa, having- succeeded in obtaining a branch of 
 the fig-tree under which the Buddha had been wont to sit in 
 meditation, phmtcd it at Anuradh;ipura, and it is now the 
 venerable tree which we see still flourishing after more than 
 twenty centuries. Its offspring have formed a grove which 
 overshadows the ruins of the once beautiful court and the tiers 
 of sculptured terraces which were built around it. All that is 
 left of the magnificent entrance to the enclosure is seen in our 
 picture (Plate 670) — a few bare monoliths and the two janitors 
 still at their post. 
 
 '{'he story of this tree is intimately connected with that of 
 Mahinda, and therefore goes back to the foundation of Anurad- 
 hiipura. We have already noticed that the conversion of the 
 people followed immediately upon that of their king, and in 
 the desire to embrace the doctrines of the great preacher the 
 women were not behind, and thousands of them wished to take 
 vows and enter upon a life of asceticism. But Mahinda de- 
 clared that although they might be converted by his preaching 
 they could take vows only at the hands of a dignitary of their 
 own sex. This difBculty was overcome by sending for his 
 sister Sanghamitta, who had become the prioress of a Buddhist 
 nunnery at Pataliputra. Thither King Tissa's minister, 
 Arittha, was deputed to proceed and invite her to Ceylon for 
 the purpose of initiating the women of the island ; and at the 
 same time he was directed to request the Emperor Asoka to 
 allow her to bring with her a branch of the sacred bo-tree 
 under which the Buddha attained perfection. This mission 
 was duly accomplished ; the princess came, and with her the 
 branch from which grew the very tree which still flourishes at 
 Anuradhapura. 
 
 Glancing at the story of the Mahawansa, we shall find no 
 exception to the typical manner in which the native historians 
 adorn their descriptions of important events, disguising every 
 fact with a mantle of extravagant romance. 
 
 When it was decided that a branch of the original bo-tree 
 should be sent, superhuman aid was immediately forthcoming 
 for the construction of a golden vase for its transit. This vase 
 was moulded to a circumference of fourteen feet and a thick- 
 ness of eight inches. Then the monarch causing that vase, 
 resplendent like the meridian sun, to be brought, attended by 
 the four constituent hosts of his militarv array, and by the 
 great body of the priesthood, repaired to the great bo-tree, 
 which was decorated with every variety of ornament, glittering 
 with the variegated splendour of gems, decked with rows of 
 streaming banners, and laden with offerings of flowers of every
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 543 
 
 hue. . . . Having bowed down with uplifted hands at Anur^dhiipurA 
 eight places, and placed that precious vase on a golden stool 7'«.s.i. .../ 
 studded with \arious gems, of such a height that the branch 
 could easily be reached, he ascended it himself for the purpose 
 of obtaining the topmost branch. Using vermilion in a golden 
 pencil, and streaking the branch therewith, he made this 
 solemn declaration and invocation : — " If this right topmost 
 branch from this bo-tree is destined to depart hence to the land 
 of Lanka, and if my faith in the religion of Buddha be un- 
 shaken, let it, self-severed, instantly transplant itself into this 
 golden vase. " 
 
 The bo-branch, severing itself at the place where the streak 
 was made, rested on the top of the vase, which was filled with 
 scented oil . . . The sovereign on witnessing this miracle, 
 with uplifted liaiuls, while \et standing on the golden stool, 
 set up a shout, which was echoed by the surrounding spec- 
 tators. The delighted priesthood expressed their joy by shouts 
 of "sahdu," and the crowding multitude, waving thousands 
 of cloths o\er their heads, cheered . . . The instant the 
 great bo-branch was planted in the \ase, the earth quaked, and 
 numerous miracles were witnessed. By the din of the 
 separately heard sound of various musical instruments — -by 
 the " sahdus " shouted, as well as by Devas and men of the 
 human world as by tlic host of Dc\as and Brahmas of the 
 heavens — by the howling of the elements, the roar of animals, 
 the screeches of birds, and the yells of the yakkas as well as 
 other fierce spirits, together with the crashing concussions of 
 the earthquake, they constituted one universal chaotic uproar. 
 
 The vase was then embarked on board a vessel in charge of 
 a large number of royal personages, and, accompanied by the 
 monarch, was taken down the Ganges to the sea, where the 
 Maharajah disembarked and " stood on the shore with uplifted 
 hands ; and gazing upon the departing branch, shed tears in 
 the bitterness of his grief. In the agony of parting, the dis- 
 consolate Asoka, weeping and lamenting in loud s()i)s, dcjiartcd 
 for his own capital. " 
 
 After a miraculous passage the \csscl ani\ed off the coast 
 of Ceylon and was discerned b\' the king, who was watching 
 for it from a magnificent hall which had been irected on the 
 shore for the purpose. Upon seeing its approach he exclaimed : 
 " This is the branch from the bo-tree at which Buddha attained 
 Buddhahood," and rushing into the waves up to his neck he 
 caused the great Ijtaiuli to Ix- lifted up collectively by sixteen 
 castes of persons, and deposited it in the lordly hall on the beach. 
 
 It was then placed on a superb car aiul, accompanied by 
 the king, was taken along a road sprinkled with white sand 
 and decorated with banners and garlands of llouers to the city
 
 544 Till-: HOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Anurudhapiirfi of .\iuir;i(ih;ipurii, which was reached on the fourteenth day. 
 
 TiuSiLnd At the hour when shadows are most extended the procession 
 
 entered the Mahamej^ha garden, and there the king himself 
 assisted to deposit the vase. In an instant the branch extri- 
 cated itself, and springing eighty cubits into the air, self-poised 
 and resplendent, it cast forth a halo of rays of six colours. 
 These enchanting rays, illuminating the land, ascended tcj th(- 
 Hrahma heavens and continued visible till the sun had sunk 
 into the sea. 
 
 Afterwards the branch, descending under the constellation 
 "Rohini," re-entered the vase on the ground, and the earth 
 thereupon quaked. Its roots, rising up out of the mouth of 
 the vase and shooting downwards, descended, forcing it down 
 into the earth. The whole assembled populace made floral 
 and other offerings to the rooted branch. A heavy deluge of 
 rain fell around, and dense clouds completely enveloped it in 
 their misty shrouds. At the end of the seventh day the clouds 
 dispersed and displayed the bo-tree with its halo. 
 
 This bo-tree, monarch of the forest, endowed with many 
 miraculous powers, has stood for ages in the delightful Maha- 
 megha garden in Lanka, promoting the spiritual welfare of the 
 inhabitants and the propagation of the true religion.* 
 
 There is good reason to accept the main facts of the above 
 story, notwithstanding the fairy tale into which they have been 
 woven. The subsequent history of the venerable tree has been 
 less poetically chronicled, and recounts with great exactness 
 the functions held in its honour, together with reliable informa- 
 tion on matters connected with its careful preservation and the 
 adoration bestowed upon it. That it escaped destruction by 
 the enemies of Buddhism throughout many invasions is per- 
 haps attributable to the fact that the same species is held in 
 veneration by the Hindus who, while destroying its surround- 
 ing monuments, would have spared the tree itself. 
 
 isuiumuniya Another very ancient and interesting foundation attributed 
 
 to King Tissa is the Isurumuniya Temple. This curious build- 
 ing, carved out of the natural rock, occupies a romantic 
 position. Before and behind lie large lotus ponds on whose 
 banks huge crocodiles may occasionally be seen. We may 
 easily photograph them from a distance by means of a telescope 
 lens, but they object to be taken at short range. We may 
 approach them wnth a hand camera, but immediately it is pre- 
 sented to them they dart into the water at lightning speed. 
 These ponds are surrounded by woodland scenery which 
 presents many an artistic feature ; but we must here be content 
 with a near view of the temple itself. To the right of the 
 
 * This account is condensed from Mr. Tumour's translation of the early 
 part of the Mahawansa, written in the fifth century.
 
 67U. THh bACRbU bU-lKtt. 
 
 671. THE ISURUMUNIYA ROCK TEMPLE.
 
 672. SCULPTURED TABLET AT ISURUMUNIYA. 
 
 673. BACK VIEW OF THE ISURUMUNIYA TEMPLE.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 547 
 
 entrance will be noticed a lary;e pokuua or bath. This has Anuridhipur* 
 been restored and is quite fit for its ori<(inal purpose of cere- ^i"i..mi..iiwi 
 monial ablution, but the monks now resident have placed it at 
 the disposal of the crocodiles, whom thev encourage bv pro- 
 viding them with food. 
 
 The modern entrance to the shrine, with its tiled roof, is in 
 shocking contrast to the rock-building, and unfortunately this 
 is the case with all the ancient rock-temples of the island. 
 
 The terraces which lead to the shrine are interesting for 
 their remarkable frescoes and sculptures in bas relief. There 
 are more than twenty of these in the walls, and all of them are 
 exceedingly grotesque. Several are in the form of tablets like 
 the specimen here shown, in plate 672. 
 
 In addition to the tablets, the natural rock was frescoed in 
 higli relief, and although many of the figures have become 
 hardly discernible, owing to the action of the climate during so 
 many centuries, others are still clearly defined, .\bove the 
 conur of the bath are the heads of four elephants, and above 
 them is a sitting figure holding a horse. Similarly there are 
 fjuaint cai^x ings in many other parts. The doorway is mag- 
 niliient, and for beautiful carving almost equals anything to 
 be found in Ceylon. There is nothing of special interest about 
 the shrine. It has a figure of Buddha car\-cd out of the solid 
 i"o(k, but the rest of it has been decorated (|uitc rr( cnth, and, 
 like the entrance porch, seems out of harmom witli tlu- si)irit 
 of the place. 
 
 The temple is unique in many respects and worthy of a 
 thorough exploration. It was discovered about thirty years 
 ago entirely hidden by jungle, and, of course, in a worse state 
 than at present. 
 
 There are many more remains of this period in .\nur;idh;i- 
 pura, but we shall now pass on to the Brazen Palace, a building 
 of somewhat later date — the end of the second ( ciituiy n.c. 
 
 In the interxal between Tissa's death and the iniilding of 
 the Brazen Palace by Dutthagamini, a large number of monas- 
 teries were erected and the community of monks greatly in- 
 creased. But even so early as this after the foundation of the 
 sacred city trouble came in the form of invasion from Southern 
 India. For some years the Tamils held the upper hand, Flara, / /.".i 
 one of their princes, usiu'ped the Sinhalese throne, and the 
 Buddhist e;iuse was in danger of complete annihilation, when 
 the Sinhalese king Dutthagamini, stirred by religious enthu- 
 siasm, made a desperate stand and ri'covered his throne. 'i"he 
 stor\ of the final combat is worthy of our notice as showing 
 the ( haraeter of the man who erected the most wonderful of 
 tile .\nur;idh;i])ur;i monuments. 
 
 It was in u.c. 1O4 that Dutthagamini, haxing grown weary
 
 548 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Aniirridiiripiirii of [he protracted strugg-lcs of his army which for some years 
 he had led with varyiiiij fortune aj^ainst Klara, challenged that 
 
 The dud prince to single combat. Having given orders that no other 
 
 person sliould assail Elara, he mounted his favourite war 
 elephant, Kandula, and advanced to meet his adversary. Elara 
 hurled the first spear, which Dutthagamini successfully evaded 
 and at once made his own elephant charge with his tusks the 
 elephant of his opponent. After a desperate struggle Elara 
 and his elephant fell together. 
 
 Death of Elara Then followed an act of chivalry on the part of Dutthaga- 
 
 mini so remarkable that it has been regarded with admiration 
 for twenty centuries. He caused Elara to be cremated on the 
 spot where he fell, and there built a tomb. He further ordained 
 that the tomb should receive honours, and that no one should 
 pass it without some mark of reverence ; and even to this day 
 these injunctions are to some extent respected, and the tomb is 
 still marked by a huge mound. 
 
 With the death of Elara the power of the invaders was 
 broken, and the heroic Dutthagamini restored to the country 
 those conditions of peace and prosperity under which Tissa 
 had been enabled to inaugurate the religious foundations 
 already referred to. To the further development of these he 
 now applied himself. 
 
 The Brazen The Community of monks had enormously increased with 
 
 the popularity of the new religion, and Dutthagamini made 
 their welfare his chiefest care, erecting the Loha Pasada, 
 known as the Brazen Palace, for their accommodation. This 
 remarkable building rested on sixteen hundred monolithic 
 columns of granite, which are all that now remain ; their 
 original decoration has disappeared, and we see only that part 
 of them which has defied both time and a whole series of heretic 
 invaders. The basement or setting of this crowd of hoary 
 relics is buried deep in earth that has been for centuries accumu- 
 lating over the marble floors of the once resplendent halls, and 
 all that is left to us are these pillars partially entombed, but still 
 standing about twelve feet out of the ground (see Plate 674). 
 
 The history of this wonderful edifice is fully dealt with in the 
 native chronicles, whose accuracy as to the main features is 
 attested in many ways, and not least by the " world of stone 
 columns " that remain. 
 
 The following description is taken from the Mahawansa, 
 and was probably written about the fifth century a.d. from 
 records preserved in the monasteries : — 
 
 " This palace was one hundred cubits square and of the 
 same height. In it there were nine stories, and in each of 
 them one hundred apartments. All these apartments were 
 highly finished with silver ; and the cornices thereof were em- 
 
 Palace
 
 THE BOOK OF ^I•:^■I.o^• 
 
 549 
 
 bellishcd with gems. 'Jhc lluwcr-ornaiiicnts thereof were also AnuradhapurA 
 set with gems, and the tinkhng festoons were of gold. In this Th< iuauh 
 palace there were a thousand dormitories ha\ing windows with ^'"'"'' 
 ornaments which were bright as eyes. 
 
 " J'he monarch caused a gilt hall to be constructed in the 
 middle of the palace. This hall was supported on golden 
 pillars, representing lions and other animals as well as the 
 devaias, and was ornamented with festoons of pearls all 
 around. Exactly in the middle of this hall, which was adorned 
 with the seven treasures, there was a beautiful and cnihanting 
 ivory throne. On one side of this throne there was the emblem 
 of the sun in gold; on another the moon in silver; and on the 
 third the stars in pearls. From the golden corners in various 
 places in the hall, bunches of llowers made of various gems 
 were suspended ; and between golden creepers there were 
 representations of the Jatakas. On this most enchanting 
 throne, covered with a cloth of inestimable value, an ivorv fan 
 of exquisite beauty was placed. On the footstool of the throne 
 a pair of slippers ornamented with beads, and abo\e the throne 
 glittered the white canopy of dominion mounted with a siher 
 handle. 
 
 " The king caused the palace to be pro\ i(l( d suitaljly with 
 couches and chairs of great value; and in like manner with 
 carpets of woollen fabric ; even the laver and its ladle for wash- 
 ing the hands and feet of the priests kept at the door of the 
 temple were made of gold. Who shall describe the other articles 
 used in that palace? The building was covered with brazen 
 tiles; hence it acquired the name of the ' Brazen Palace.' 
 
 The palace did not long remain as originally constructed by 
 Dutthagamini. In the reign of Sadhatissa, about B.C. 140, the 
 numl)er of stories was reduced to seven ; and again, about two 
 centuries later, to five. Its history has been marked b\' many 
 vicissitudes, generally involving the destruction of some of its 
 upper stories. These attacks on the wonderful edifice were not 
 always due to the iconoclastic zeal of Brahman invaders, but to 
 a serious division in the ranks of the Buddhists themselves. 
 About the year B.C. 90 a question arose as to the authority of 
 certain doctrines which one party wished to be included in the 
 canon. Tlic proposal was regarded as an innovation and 
 strenuously opposed by the orthodox fraternity, with the result 
 that those who adhered to the innovation formed themsehes 
 into a rival body known as the Abhayagiriya. IIen(x- the gn-at 
 Brazen Palace, which had originally been the residence of the 
 highest ascetics, was dependent for its preservation on tlio 
 varving fortunes of its orthodox inhabitants. This di\ision, 
 which marred the unity of Buddhism in Ceylon ft)r fourteen 
 centuries, was perhaps at the height of its bitterness when
 
 550 'I" I IK ROOK OF CKM.ON 
 
 Anuridhdpur^ Malia Sen came to the throne at the beginning of the third 
 century. He adopted the heresy above relcrred to and pulled 
 down tlie Brazen Palace in order to enrich the rival monastery 
 with its treasures. This apostate king, however, afterwards 
 recanted, and in his penitence he restored the palace once more 
 to its ancient splendour, and rebuilt all the other monasteries 
 that he had destroyed. 
 
 From the nature of its construction as well as the intrinsic 
 value of its decorative materials, the Brazen Palace has always 
 been more exposed to spoliation than the shrines and other 
 buildings whose colossal proportions astonish us as we wander 
 through the sacred city. 
 
 A more enduring and not less remarkable piece of the work 
 of Dutthagamini has come down to us. The new religion had 
 filled its votaries with almost superhuman energy, and only the 
 very hills themselves could compare with the buildings which 
 were the outward expression of their devotion. Foundations 
 were laid to the depth of one hundred feet and composed of 
 layers of crystallised stone and plates of iron and copper alter- 
 nately placed and cemented ; and upon such bases were piled 
 millions of tons of masonry. 
 The Ruaiui'di We scc the remains of one of these stupendous edifices in 
 
 "^^ " the Ruanweli or gold-dust dagaha. Its present appearance 
 
 from a distance, from which our picture is taken, is that of a 
 conical shaped hill nearly two hundred feet high, covered with 
 trees and surmounted by a tiny spire. It is, however, a mass 
 of solid brickwork (see Plates 675 and 676). 
 
 Time and the frequent attacks of enemies have to a great 
 extent obliterated the original design, but there is sufficient of 
 the structure still remaining to verify the accounts of the ancient 
 writers who have transmitted to us full details of the building 
 as it was erected in the second century B.C. We should not 
 readily believe these accounts without the evidence of the ruins. 
 It is as well, therefore, to see what remains before we glance 
 at the first written story of the clagaba. 
 
 The ruins of the eastern portico in the foreground of the 
 picture at once suggest an entrance of stately proportions. 
 The pillars are arranged in six parallel rows so that wooden 
 beams might be laid upon them longitudinally and transversely 
 for the support of the ornamental open roof which was un- 
 doubtedly there. The boldly sculptured lions of the left front 
 give a clue to the style of ornament adopted. 
 
 Upon traversing the passage, which we notice is sufficiently 
 large to admit elephants, we arrive at an extensive court or 
 platform nearly one hundred feet wide and extending round 
 the whole dagaha. This is the path used for processions in 
 which a large number of elephants frequently took part. From
 
 674. THE LOHA PASADA OR BRAZEN PALACE. 
 
 675. THE RUANWELI DAGABA.
 
 676. THE RUANWELI, SHOWING THE EXCAVATION OF THE ELEPHANT WALL 
 
 677. MINIATURE DAGABA ON THE PLATFORM OF THE RUANWELI.
 
 Till': iu)()K oi' ri-:\i.()\ 
 
 553 
 
 this rises another immense square phitlurm measuring about Anuradhapurd 
 
 live hundred feet each way and made to appear as if" supported riu Kuu>...,:i 
 
 by about four hundred elephants. 'I'hese elephants form the "*■" " 
 
 retaining wall ; they were modelled in brickwork and placed 
 
 less than two feet apart; only their heads and fore legs appear; 
 
 their height is about nine feet, .\llhough all that have been 
 
 excavated arc in a terribly dilapidated condition (sec Plate 676), 
 
 there are still evidences here and there of the original treatment 
 
 and finish. We learn from the native records that they were 
 
 all coated with the hard and durable white enamel, chunam, 
 
 and that each had ivory tusks. In protected places portions of 
 
 the original surface still remain, and the holes in the jaws 
 
 where the tusks were inserted are still visible. 
 
 There are also traces of ornamental trappings which were 
 executed in bold relief; they differ considerably on each el'.phant, 
 suggesting great ingenuity on the part of the modellers. 
 
 These two platforms form the foundation constructed to 
 sustain the ponderous mass of the solid brick shrine which was 
 built upon it to the height of two hundred and seventy feet, 
 with an equal diameter at the base of the dome. 
 
 The upper platform from which the dagaba rises covers 
 an area of about five acres, and is paved with stone slabs ; these 
 share the general ruin, due more to ruthless destruction than 
 the ravages of time. We notice that repairs have been effected 
 by fragments of stone taken from other fine buildings ; for 
 there are doorsteps, altar slabs, car\(d stones, of all shapes and 
 sizes, some incised with curious de\ices of exidcnt antiquity, 
 and even huge monoliths from the thresholds of other buildings 
 have been dragged hithi'r to supply the destroyed portions of 
 the original pa\ing. 
 
 The objects of interest surrounding the ilagaba are very 
 numerous. 'Ihere are four ornamental altars, and various 
 j)arts belonging to them scattered everywhere : carved panels, 
 pedestals, scrolls, capitals, friezes, ston.' tables, elephants' 
 lieads, great statues of Huddhas and kings. 
 
 Our illustration (Plate ('>jy) shows how formidaljle is the 
 business of excavation. The platforms had been buried to the 
 depth shown by the heaps of earth that still surround them 
 nnd hide the greatci' portion of the elcijhant wall. The same 
 features are observable in the illustration which fai"es this page. 
 Here upon the platform uc notice in its original position a 
 miniature ihigiihn, of which there were probably many placed 
 around the gri'at shrine as votive offerings. This specimen 
 with the i)latforni below it is composi'd of a ponderous monolith, 
 and does not ap|)cai- to lia\e been disturbed. 
 
 In the far distance is a statue with .1 |)illar of stone at the 
 back of it. This is said to be a statue in dolomite of King 
 2 K
 
 554 THE BOOK ()!• CEYLON 
 
 AnuradhdpurA Hatiya Tlssa I., who came to the throne n.c. 19. It is eight 
 ThcKuaiiwcH I'eet high, much weather-worn, and full of fractures. 
 Da^iiba Near it are four other statues placed with their backs to 
 
 the dagaba (see Plate (^y^), three of them representing Buddhas, 
 and the fourth King Dutthagamini. They originally stood in 
 the recesses of a building on the platform, and were dug out 
 during the excavations. They are all sculptured in dolomite; 
 the folds of the priestly robes with their sharp and shallow 
 ilutings arc very beautifully executed. They were probably 
 once embellished with jewels, the pupils of the eyes consisting 
 of precious stones, and the whole figures being coloured in 
 exact imitation of life. 
 
 The figure on the extreme left is said to be that of the king, 
 who is wonderfully preserved considering his great antiquity. 
 The statue is ten feet high, and must have looked very im- 
 posing in its original state, the jewelled collars being gilt, and 
 their pearls and gems coloured and polished ; even now the 
 features wear a pleasant expression. 
 
 The hall where these figures were unearthed was probably 
 built specially for their reception. It is close to their present 
 position, and its threshold is marked by a plain moonstone. 
 
 Within a few yards of the statues stands a very fine slab 
 engraved in old Sinhalese characters. This seems to have 
 formed part of the wall at the side of the porch of the hall, 
 and it is still erect between two of the original pillars, being 
 very firmly fixed in a bed of brickwork. The engraved face 
 would thus have been inside the portico. Its date is the latter 
 part of the twelfth century, and it gives some account of 
 various good deeds of the King Kirti Nissanka, who was 
 famous for his attention to the repair and maintenance of 
 religious edifices. After reciting that he "decorated the city 
 like a city of the gods," it ends with an appeal to future princes 
 to protect and preserve the ivihdres, the people, and the religion. 
 
 To give a complete description of the Ruanweli dagaha 
 and of the numerous ruined halls, altars and monuments that 
 form part of or are connected with it would fill a volume at least 
 as large as the present. We must, however, remark briefly on 
 a few more points of special interest. 
 
 The three terraces or pasadas round the base of the bell are 
 about seven feet wide, and were used as ambulatories by the 
 worshippers. The uppermost terrace is ornamented with fore- 
 quarters of kneeling elephants to the number of about one 
 hundred and fifty. These are placed on the outer edge at regu- 
 lar intervals all round the dagaha. From the terraces the great 
 hemispherical mass of brickwork was carried to the height of 
 two hundred and seventy feet, including the tee or small spire. 
 Its present appearance, as may be seen in plate 676, is a
 
 673. STATUES IN DOLOMITE ON THE RUANWELI PLATFORM. 
 
 679. ALTAR AT THE RUANWELI DAGABA.
 
 556 Till-: HOOK Ol" CICVLON 
 
 Anurfidhiipur^ sliapclcss moLind c'()\crc'd with tics sprunj^ from stray seeds; 
 The Kuanwiii hilt beneath those trees are the millions of bricks which were 
 ""'-'"''" carefully and religiously laid two thousand years ago. 
 
 The lower part of the bell has been restored to some extent 
 bv pious pils^rinis w lio ha\e from time to time expended con- 
 siderable sums of money upon it ; but the race that could make 
 these immense shrines what they once were has vanished, and 
 with it the conditions which rendered such works possible. 
 
 The principal ornaments of the clagaba were the chapels or 
 altars at the four cardinal points. All these are in a very 
 ruinous condition, portions of the friezes carved in quaint 
 designs being strewn about, as also are railings, mouldings, 
 brackets, vases, and sculptures of various kinds. One of these 
 structures, however, has been restored as far as possible from 
 the fragments found lying about at the time of its excavation 
 (Plate 679). There are traces here and there of enamel and 
 colour, especially upon the figure subjects, and it is supposed 
 from this that the whole surface of the altars was covered with 
 that wonderfully durable white chunam, and that they were 
 made attractive to the native eye b\' the gaudy colouring of 
 the figures and cornices. 
 
 In addition to the interesting architectural features of the 
 shrine there are numerous inscriptions in old Sinhalese charac- 
 ters, relating to grants of land and other matters connected 
 with the daguha. The ancient writings refer to a number of 
 monastic edifices that surrounded it. Of these there are traces ; 
 but, since we find even lofty platforms buried in earth and over- 
 grown with grass and trees, the exploration of smaller buildings 
 is easily understood to be a difficult matter. How extensive 
 they must have been we can imagine from the fact that many 
 thousands of monks were attached to the monasteries of each 
 of the large dagahas ; and for their personal accommodation, 
 not to speak of the requirements of their religious ceremonies, 
 a vast range of buildings must have been necessary. 
 
 Having glanced at the present condition of the ruined 
 shrine of Ruanweli, we will now turn to the Mahawansa for 
 some particulars of its origin. The chronicler, naturally 
 enough, attributes to a deity the supply of the necessary 
 materials; but the account of the construction is reasonable 
 enough, and is in many particulars borne out by what we see 
 at the present day. To support a solid mass of masonry two 
 hundred and seventy feet high and nearly a thousand in circum- 
 ference were needed foundations of an extraordinary character, 
 and the attention devoted to this unseen part of the work was 
 justified by results. Its success is evidenced by the fact that 
 not even now has any part of the foundation shown the slightest 
 sign of subsidence.
 
 THE BOOK OF CT-:\LOX 557 
 
 After the necessary excavation had been made, " the Anuridhipuri 
 monarch Duttha^^amini," says the chronicle, "who could dis- i >" KuaK-.^:, 
 criminate the advantag^es and disadvantai^es of things, causing "'''" " 
 round stones to be broug^ht by means of his soldiers, had them 
 well beaten down with pounders, and to ensure greater dura- 
 bility to the foundation he caused that layer of stones to be 
 trampled by enormous elephants, whose feet were protected by 
 leathern shoes. He had clay spread upon the layer of stones, 
 and upon this he laid bricks ; over them a coat of cement ; over 
 that a layer of stones; over them a network of iron; over that 
 a layer of phalika stone, and over that he laid a course of 
 common stones. Above the layer of common stones he laid a 
 plate of brass, eight inches thick, embedded in a cement made 
 of the gum of the kappitha tree, diluted in the water of the 
 small red cocoanut. 0\cr that the lord of the chariots laid 
 a plate of silver seven inches thi(-k, cemented in \ ermilion paint 
 mixed in tila oil. 
 
 " The monarch, in his zealous devotion to the cause of 
 religion, having made these preparatory arrangements at the 
 spot where the Mahathupa was to be built, thus addressed the 
 priesthood : ' Revered lords ! initiating the construction of the 
 great cetiya, I shall to-morrow lay the festival-brick of the 
 edifice : let all our priesthood assemble there. Let all my pious 
 subjects, provided with offerings, bringing fragrant flowers and 
 other oblations, repair to-morrow to the site of the Mahathupa.' 
 
 "The ruler of the land, ever mindful of the welfare of the 
 people, for their accommodation pro\ ided at the four gates of 
 the city numerous bath-attendants, barbers, and dressers, as 
 well as clothing, garlands, and savoury provisions. Thi- in- 
 habitants of the capital as well as of the proxinces repaired to 
 the thupa. 
 
 " The lord of the land, guarded b\- his ollicers of state 
 decked in all the insignia of their gala dress, himself captivating 
 all by the splendour of his royal equipment, surrounded by a 
 throng of dancing and singing women — rivalling in beauty the 
 celestial virgins — decorated in their various embellishments, 
 attended by forty thousand men, accompanied by a full baiui 
 of musicians, repaired to the site, as if he had himsilf bien the 
 king of the Devas. " 
 
 Next, the chronicler with pardonable exaggeration describes 
 the throngs of priests who attended the ceremony from various 
 Indian monasteries. .After running up their numl)er to ni-arly 
 a million, he seems to come to the limit of his notation, and 
 omits his estimate of the full number of Ceylon monks. The 
 account then continues: "These priests, leaving a space in 
 the centre for the king, encinling the site of the cetiya, in due 
 order stood around. The king, having entered the space and
 
 I'ill^ill'U 
 
 558 THK BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Anurddhdpuru sccint^ the pi'icsthood who had thus arranged themselves, bowed 
 riir Niiiiin.rii dowii to them with profound obeisance; and overjoyed at the 
 spectacle, making- offerings of fragrant garlands and w'alking 
 twice round, he stationed himself in the centre on the spot 
 where the filled chalice was placed with all honours. This 
 monarch, supremely compassionate, and regardful equally of 
 the welfare of all beings, delighting in the task assigned to 
 him, caused a minister of noble descent, well attired, to hold 
 the end of a fine rod of silver that was fitted into a golden pivot, 
 and began to make him walk round therewith on the prepared 
 ground, with the intent to describe a great circle to mark the 
 base of the cetiya. Thereupon a thera of great spiritual dis- 
 cernment, by name Siddhattha, who had an insight into the 
 future, dissuaded the king, saying to himself, ' the king is 
 about to build a great thupa indeed; so great that while yet 
 it is incomplete he would die : moreover, if the thupa be a very 
 great one it would be exceedingly difficult to keep in repair. ' 
 For these reasons, looking into futurity, he prohibited it being 
 constructed of that magnitude. The king, although anxious 
 to build it of that size, by the advice of the priesthood and at 
 the suggestion of the theras, adopting the proposal of the thera 
 Siddhattha, described a circle of more moderate dimensions. 
 The indefatigable monarch placed in the centre eight golden 
 and eight silver vases, and surrounded them with one thousand 
 and eight fresh vases and with cloth in quantities of one hun- 
 dred and eight pieces. He then caused eight excellent bricks 
 to be placed separately, one in each of the eight quarters, and 
 causing a minister, who was selected and fully arrayed for the 
 purpose, to take up one that was marked with divers signs of 
 prosperity, he laid the first auspicious stone in the fine cement 
 on the eastern quarter ; and lo ! when jessamine flowers were 
 offered thereunto, the earth quaked." 
 
 When the pediment was complete the very important busi- 
 ness of constructing the relic chamber was proceeded with. 
 This was placed in the centre and afterwards covered by the 
 mighty mass of brickwork that forms the dagaba. 
 
 The Mahawansa gives the following minute description of 
 the formation of the receptacle and the articles placed in it 
 prior to the installation of the relics : — 
 
 Six beautiful cloud-coloured stones were procured, in length 
 and breadth eighty cubits and eight inches thick. One of these 
 slabs was placed upon the flower-offering ledge from which the 
 dome was to rise, and four were placed on the four sides in the 
 shape of a box, the remaining one being placed aside to be 
 afterwards used as the cover. " For the centre of this relic 
 receptacle the king caused to be made an exquisitely beautiful 
 bo-tree in precious metals. The height of the stem was
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 559 
 
 eighteen cubits ; the root was coral, and was fixed in emerald Anuradhapurt 
 
 ground. The stem was of pure silver; its leaves glittered with riuku.i,:..^:^ 
 
 gems. The faded leaves were of gold ; its fruit and tender ^'"•''''"* 
 
 leaves were of coral. On its stem there were representations 
 
 of the eight auspicious objects, plants and beautiful rows of 
 
 quadrupeds and geese. Above this, around the edges of a 
 
 gorgeous cloth canopy, there was a fringe with a gold border 
 
 tinkling with pearls, and in various parts garlands of flowers 
 
 were suspended. At the four corners of the canopy hung 
 
 bunches composed of pearls, each of them valued at nine 
 
 lacs. Emblems of the sun, moon, and stars, and the various 
 
 species of lotuses, represented in gems, were appended to the 
 
 canopy ... At the foot of the bo-tree were arranged rows 
 
 of vases filled with the various flowers represented in jewellerv 
 
 and with the four kinds of perfumed waters. 
 
 " On a golden throne, erected on the eastern side of the 
 bo-tree, the king placed a resplendent golden image of Buddha, 
 in the attitude in which he received buddahood at the foot of 
 the bo-tree at Uruvela in the kingdom of Magadha. The 
 features and limbs of that image were represented in their 
 several appropriate colours in exquisitely resplendent gems. 
 Near the image of Buddha stood the figure of Mahabrahma 
 bearing the silver canopy of dominion ; Sakka, the inaugurator, 
 with his conch; Pancasikha, harp in hand; Kalanga, together 
 with his singers and dancers ; the hundred-armed Mara mounted 
 on his elephant and surrounded by his host of attendants." 
 The above was the arrangement of the eastern side. On the 
 other three sides altars were formed in an equally elaborate and 
 costly manner. Groups of figures represented numerous events 
 in the life of Buddha and his various deeds. There was Brahma 
 in the act of supplicating Buddha to expound his doctrines; 
 the advance of King Bimbisara to meet Buddha; the lamenta- 
 tion of Devas and men on the demise of Buddha, and a large 
 number of other notable occurrences. Mashes of lightning 
 were represented on the cloud-coloured stt)ne walls illuminating 
 and setting off the apartment. 
 
 What the relics were that this elaborate receptacle was 
 made to receive is not quite clear, but some were obtained, and 
 for the ceremony of translation a canopy of cloth ornamented 
 with tassels of gems and borders of pearls was arranged above 
 the chamber. On the day of the full moon the monarch en- 
 shrined the relics. " I^e was," says the Mahawansa, 
 " attended by bands of singers and dancers of every descrip- 
 tion ; bv his guard of warriors fully caparisoned ; by his great 
 militarx- array, consisting of elephants, horses, and chariots, 
 resplendent by the perfection of their equipment ; mounting his 
 state carriage, to which four perfectly while steeds of the
 
 5^0 THH HOOK Ol-" CI-: VI. ON 
 
 Anurudhiipuni Sindhava bi'cc'd were harnessed, he stood under the \\hitc 
 Thr Kuitiiu'iii canopy of dominion bearing a golden casket lor the reception 
 '■'''" '' ot the relics. Sending forward the superb state elephant, 
 
 Kandula, fully caparisoned to lead the procession, men and 
 women carrying one thousand and eight exquisitely replenished 
 vases encircled the carriage. l<"emales bearing the same 
 number of baskets of llowers and of torches, and y(juths in 
 their full dress bearing a thousand and eight superb banners 
 of various colours surrounded the car." .\midst such a scene 
 the monarch Dutthagamini descended into the receptacle 
 carrying the casket of relics on his head and deposited it on 
 the golden altar. He then ordered that the people who desired 
 to do so might place other relics on the top of the shrine of the 
 principal relics before the masonry dome was erected, and 
 thousands availed themselves of the permission. 
 
 Now the work of building again proceeded, and the massi\e 
 da^aha was carried near to completion when King Dutthaga- 
 mini fell sick. The native chronicle tells a pathetic story of 
 the last scene, describing how the dying monarch was carried 
 to a spot where, in his last moments, he could gaze on his 
 greatest works — the Lohapasada and the Ruanweli dagaba. 
 Lying on a marble couch which is pointed out to the visitor at 
 the present day, he was comforted by hearing read out an 
 enumeration of his own many pious acts. His favourite priest, 
 who had been a great warrior and had been at his side in 
 twenty-eight battles, was now seated in front of him. The 
 scene is thus referred to in the IMahawansa : " The king thus 
 addressed his favourite priest : ' In times past, supported by 
 thee, one of my warriors, I engaged in battle ; now, single- 
 handed, I have commenced my conflict with death. I shall 
 not be allowed to overcome this antagonist. ' To this the thera 
 replied : ' Ruler of men, compose thyself. \\ ithout subduing 
 sin, the dominion of the foe, the power of the foe, death is 
 invincible. For by our divine teacher it has been announced 
 that all that is launched into this transitory world will most 
 assuredly perish ; the whole creation therefore is perishable. 
 The principle of dissolution uninfluenced by the impulses of 
 shame or fear exerts its power, even over Buddha. Hence, 
 impress thyself with the conviction that created things are 
 subject to dissolution, afflicted with griefs, and destitute of 
 immortality. In thy existence immediately preceding the pre- 
 sent one, thy ambition to do good was truly great ; for when the 
 world of the gods was then even nigh unto thee, and thou 
 couldst have been born therein, thou didst renounce that 
 heavenly beatitude, and repairing thither thou didst perform 
 manifold acts of piety in various ways. Thy object in reducing 
 this realm under one sovcrcigntv was that thou mightest restore
 
 THE HOOK OF CK\LO\ 561 
 
 the glory of the faith. My Lord, call to thy rccolk-rtion the Anuradhiipurd 
 many acts of piety performed from that period to the present /'.< />!..i'i:.<.i 
 day, and consolation will be inevitably afforded to thee.' . . . ^"^''''"' 
 The monarch having derived consolation replied to the thera : 
 ' For four-and-twenty years have I been the patron of the 
 priesthood ; may even my corpse be subservient to the protec- 
 tion of the ministers of the faith ! Do ye therefore consume the 
 corpse of him who has been as submissive as a slave to th'j 
 priesthood in some conspicuous spot in the yard of the I'posatha 
 Hall within sight of the Mahathupa.' Ha\ing expressed these 
 wishes, he addressed his younger brother : ' My beloved 'Fissa, 
 do thou complete, in the most eilicient and perfect manner, all 
 that remains to be done at the Mahathupa ; present llower offer- 
 ings morning and e\ening ; keep up three times a day the sacred 
 service, with full band of musicians. Whatever may have been 
 the offerings prescribed by me to be made to the religion of the 
 deity of happy advent, do thou, my child, keep up without any 
 diminution. My bcloxcd, in no respects in the offices rendered 
 to the priesthood let there be any intermission.' Having thus 
 admonished him, the ruler of the land dropped into silence." 
 
 Saddha Tissa carefully carried out the dying wishes of his 
 brother and completed the ])innacle. He alsodecorated the enclos- 
 ing wall with (■le]:>hants, and enamelled the domi' with chunam. 
 
 I'.acli of several succeeding kings added something to the 
 decoration, and erected more buildings in the precincts of the 
 great shrine. It is recorded of King Hatiya Tissa, who reigned 
 between 19 b.c. and 9 a.d., and whose statue near the dui^nba 
 we have already noticed, that on one occasion he festooned the 
 ddsidbd with jessamine from pedestal to pinnacle; and on 
 another he literally buried it in a heap of flowers, which he 
 kept watered b\- means of machinery constructed for the pur- 
 pose. Another king is said to haxe placed a diamond hoop 
 upon the spire. 
 
 Whatever percentage we may be inclined to deduct from 
 these accounts, there is no doubt that great wealth was lavished 
 on the structure for many years after its erection. In later 
 times, when the enemies of Buddhism obtained possession of 
 the city, the great daizaha suffered severely ; on many occasions 
 it was partially destroyed, and again restored whi-n the power 
 of the Sinhalese was temporarily in the ascendant. The last 
 attempt to destroy it is said to ha\e taken place in the thirteenth 
 century. 
 
 After our somewhat protracted examination of the Kuanwcli, 
 we pass from its precincts into one of the o|)en stretches of 
 park-like land that have been reclaimed from forest and jungle. 
 The gardens that were once an especially beautifid feature of 
 the ancient city were but a few years ago overgrown with trees.
 
 562 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Anurddhfipura and dciisc tliickct had veiled every vestige of brick and stone. 
 
 iiu iiiiiis tniii I\ecent ck-arings have, however, disclosed numberless remains 
 which form a unique feature in the landscape. Clusters of 
 pillars with exquisitely carved capitals, as perfect as if they 
 had recently left the hands of the sculptor, appear interspersed 
 with the groups of trees that have been spared for picturesque 
 effect. Here and there numbers of carved monoliths are lying 
 prostrate, bearing evidence of wilful destruction. As we 
 wander through one of these charming glades we are attracted 
 especially by the group of pillars illustrated in plate 680. In 
 almost every instance of such groups the ornamental wings on 
 the landing at the top of the steps are exposed, although the 
 steps and mouldings of the bases are buried in earth. In the 
 illustration here given it will be noticed that these wing-stones, 
 covered with makara and scroll, vie with the carved capitals in 
 their excellent preservation ; the fabulous monster forming the 
 upper portion and the lion on the side are still perfect in every 
 particular. 
 
 It is probable that these buildings consisted of an entrance 
 hall and a shrine, that they were, in fact, the image houses of 
 the ivihdres. 
 
 i'o^'tinas Another very interesting feature of the cleared spaces is 
 
 the large number of stone-built baths or tanks, called 
 "pokunas." There are so many, and they vary so much in 
 architectural treatment, that they must have added greatly to 
 the beautiful aspect of the city. The specimen illustrated in 
 our plate has been restored, and gives a good idea of the 
 original appearance, although much of the ornamental portion 
 is missing. It will be noticed that on one side there is a stone- 
 paved terrace, within which is an inner bath. This inner bath 
 was doubtless sheltered by a roof supported upon stone pillars, 
 of which there are several fractured pieces and socket holes 
 remaining. The inner bath leads into a chamber like the 
 opposite one visible in the picture. The w'alls of these chambers 
 are beautifully worked single stones, and the tops are covered 
 by enormous slabs of a similar kind, measuring twelve by 
 seven feet. 
 
 Jokuna"'"' ^^^ most interesting example }et discovered is the kuttam- 
 
 pokuna or twin-bath (see plate 682). This consists of a couple 
 of tanks placed end to end, measuring in all about two hundred 
 and twenty by fifty feet. The left side of the picture serves to 
 show the condition in which the baths were when discovered, 
 but on the right we see that some considerable restoration has 
 been effected. The materials are generally found quite com- 
 plete, although dislodged and out of place. 
 
 Our photograph was taken in January, before the end of 
 the rainy season, and in consequence the tank appears too full
 
 680. REMAINS OF IMAGE HOUSES. 
 
 681. A POKUNA.
 
 682. THE KUTTAM-POKUNA. 
 
 ic MDt-iHiMOiRiTM DAOAbA.
 
 TIIIi BOOK OI- Ci:\LOX 565 
 
 of water to admit oi the structure beiiiy seen at any consid rable AnurAdhApurA 
 depth, and some verbal description is therefore necessarv. Ak.-.m;-! /■.'.!/.;.( 
 
 The sides are built in projecting- tiers of large granite blocks 
 so planned as to form terraces all round the tank at \arious 
 depths, the maximum depth being about twenty feet. Hand- 
 some nights of steps descend to th;.- terraces, some of them 
 having car\ed scrolls on the wings. The bold mouldings of 
 the parapet gi\e an exceedingly fine effect to the sides. There 
 are signs of rich car\ings in many parts of the structure, but 
 every portion is too much defaced to trace the designs. 
 
 There is something very weird about these remnants of 
 ancient luxury hidden in the lonely forest. In the dry season 
 of the year, when the ruined terraces of the kuttam-pokuna can 
 be seen to the depth of sixteen feet, this scene is one of the 
 most impressi\e in Anuriidh;lpura. 
 
 Wc cannot help rellecting, too, that the famous baths of 
 the Roman emperors were constructed contemporaneously with 
 these, and that while those of Caracalla and Diocletian, being 
 built of brick, have crumbled now beyond repair, the picturesque 
 and elegant baths of Dutthagamini, with their beautiful terraces 
 and stairways of granite, can with little trouble be restored to 
 tlicii^ pristine condition. 
 
 It is impossible to arri\e at the exact purpose of the various 
 forms of baths found at Anuradhapura. Some were doubtless 
 attached to the monasteries and used exclusi\ely for ceremonial 
 ablutions ; some were private baths of the royal family ; others 
 were possibly for public use, and many served as receptacles of 
 the drinking water of the inhabitants. All of them were fed 
 from artilicial lakes outside the city. 
 
 We have already referred to the iisuriiation of the throne Kin^ 
 of Ceylon by the Tamil invader, Elara, and to the combat with ,','„;j',"/|;""''"''"' 
 Dutthagamini, which resulted in the defeat and death of the Ai>iM\ai;i>iya 
 usurper. Strange as it may appear, the victor, who had merely 
 regained his birthright, was constrained to make atonement 
 for bloodslied as \\v\\ as the naliira! thank-offering for his 
 victory, and to this we owe the building of the great monastery 
 of the Brazen Palace and the Ruanweli iluiialni. We iind a 
 curious repetition of historv in the occurrences that took place 
 about thirty years alter his death, when tiie old enemy again 
 got the upj)er hand. I lie king, W'alagambahu, was deposeti, 
 and ihi- usmper, I'ul.ihal ta, assumed the so\ereignty. {""iiteeii 
 more \t'ars ol a Km 11 inle ensued, during which no less than 
 four of the UMii'ixis were murdered bv their successor, until 
 Walagambahu \an(|uished the lifth, Dathiya. He then pro- 
 ceeded to raise a monaster\ and shrine that should (•cli|)se in 
 magnitude those conslru< ted l)\ I )ul thaganiini under similar 
 circumstances.
 
 5r)6 TIIK BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Anur/idhapura The buildings of the monastery have vanished, save only 
 
 "'•j ,. ., tlu' boundary walls and the stumps of its pillars, which arc 
 ""•'"''"'"'" found in large numbers; but the Abhayagiriya da^aha (I'late 
 <).S3), of its kind the greatest monument in the world, has defied 
 all the forces of destruction, both (jf man and nature, and 
 although abandoned for many centuries, during which it re- 
 ceived its vesture of forest, there is still a very large proportion 
 of the original building left. The native annals give as the 
 measurement of the Abhayagiriya a height of four hundred and 
 five feet, or fifty feet higher than St. Paul's Cathedral, with 
 three hundred and sixty feet as the diameter of the dome. 'J'he 
 height is now greatly reduced, but the base covers about eight 
 acres, and sulliciently attests the enormous size of its super- 
 structure. The lower part of the dome is buried under the 
 debris of bricks which must have been hurled from above in 
 infidel attempts at destruction. Beneath this mass the remains 
 of the numerous edifices, altars, and statues, which surrounded 
 the dcigaba, are for the most part concealed, but excavations at 
 various periods have disclosed some ruins of considerable in- 
 terest, notably the altars at the four cardinal points, one of 
 The altars which is visible in our illustration (Plate 683). These altars 
 
 are very similar to those of the Ruanweli dagaha, but much 
 larger and more elaborate in detail, being about fifty feet in 
 breadth. Many of the carvings are in remarkable preservation 
 considering their vast age and the perils they have experienced. 
 Between the stelae were the usual strings of carved ornaments, 
 with an additional one composed of running figures represent- 
 ing horses, elephants, bulls, and lions. 
 
 The stelze, of which there are two at each end, are 
 elaborately carved, as will be seen from the accompanying 
 illustrations ; the fronts being adorned with a floral decoration 
 springing from a vase, and surmounted by three lions. The 
 return faces are formed of two panels. The upper has a carved 
 male figure (Naga), with a five-headed cobra as a sort of halo, 
 holding flowers in the right hand and resting the left on his 
 hip. In the lower panel is a female (Nagani) with single hood ; 
 the upper part of whose body is bare, wath the exception of 
 some jewellery, while below the waist the limbs are draped in 
 a transparent robe; the ankles are encircled by bangles, and 
 the palm of her right hand supports a vessel containing a lotus- 
 bud (Plate 68g). Adjoining the stelae is a sculptured seven- 
 headed cobra, the carving of which reproduces the scaly nature 
 of the skin with remarkable fidelity. 
 
 The west end of the altar is finished in a similar manner, 
 but here the lower part of the outer stele is destroyed ; the upper 
 panel of the return face contains a more elaborately executed 
 male figure, sumptuously attired and bedecked with jewels.
 
 684. CARVED STELE AT ABHAYAGIRIYA DAGABA.
 
 685. THE PEACOCK PALACE. 
 
 : T A vV A i\ A R A fvl A 
 
 UAWrt DM.
 
 THE BOOK OF Cm'LOX 569 
 
 There was doubtless the counterpart female figure below, but Anuradhapur* 
 it has been entirely demolished (Plate <)<S4). 
 
 The eastern altar, the first to be excavated, is the most 
 interesting and perfect of all that have yet been discovered. 
 
 This dagaha, like the Ruanweli, stands on a square paved 
 platform with sides of about six hundred feet in length, with 
 the usual elephant path below and guard houses at each of the 
 four entrances. Doubtless a \ery larg^e number of buildings 
 were erected on the platform, but of these scarcely a vestige 
 remains. It will be remembered that Maha Sen enriched the 
 Abhayagiriya with spoils from the I^razen Palace, and it is 
 thereftjre likely that it was more elaboratel}' embellished than 
 any other dagaha. 
 
 Perhaps no ruin at Anuradhapura gi\es a more ((jmplctc Peacock Palace 
 idea of the utter transience of every perishable part of a build- 
 ing than the so-called Peacock Palace (i'late <^)S5). Not only 
 the superstructure, which was doubtless of woodwork, but 
 every vestige of material other than granite has passed away. 
 This building was erected in the first century of the Christian 
 era, and is said to ha\e owed its title to the brilliance of its 
 external decoration. .\ circle of finely wrought pillars with 
 beautiful sculptured capitals and the carved wings at the 
 entrance are, as we see, all that remain. 
 
 The next group of ruins to which we come belong to the Kini; siaha Sen 
 third century, when Maha Sen, on the recantation of his heresv, 
 built another enormous dagaha and a series of smaller religious 
 edifices, of which there are some very interesting remains. 
 Ihis monarch ascended the throne a.d. 275, and died a.d. 302. 
 His support of the schismatics who had seceded from the 
 orthodox faith is attributable to a tutor under whose infiuence 
 he came by the secret machinations of the party. The result 
 of this was that upon coming to the throne he persecuted those 
 monastic orders that turned a deaf ear to the new doctrines. 
 Hundreds of their buildings were razed to the ground, including 
 the famous Brazen Palace, and the materials were used for the 
 erection of shrines and monasteries for the new sect. When, 
 however, after the lapse of some years, the old faith still held 
 its place in the affections of the people and his throne was 
 endangered by general discontent, he icturned to the faith i)f 
 his fa.thers, restored all the buildings that he had destroyed, 
 and reinstated the mi-mbers of every foundation that he had 
 overthrown. 
 
 The inception ot the jetau anaraina nionnsteiv and dagahii Jci.it.aiiatama 
 is attributed to the middle period of this monarch's reign in 
 the following quotation from the Mahawansa: - 
 
 " The king ha\ ing had two brazen images or statues cast 
 I)laeed them in the hall of the great bo-tree ; and in spite of 
 2 L
 
 570 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Anurddhdpurd rcmonstraiicc, in his infatuated partiality for the thera Tissa 
 
 jiiciwanaiama of thc Abhayagiriya fraternity a hypocrite, a dissembler, a 
 
 companion of sinners, and a \ulgar man — constructed the Jet- 
 
 wanarama vihara for him, within the consecrated bounds of 
 
 the garden called Joti, belonging to the Mahavihara. " 
 
 The Jetawanarama thus begun before the recantation of 
 the raja was not completed till the reign oi his son Kitsiri 
 Maiwan. 
 
 In our photograph may be seen thc remains of this great 
 shrine across the glistening waters of the Basawak Kulam 
 from a distance of about two miles (see plate 687). The 
 Basawak Kulam is one of the lakes constructed as tanks for the 
 supply of water to the city. Although we shall have occasion 
 to refer to these tanks later, we may here notice that this one 
 is said to be the oldest and dates from b.c. 437. The lofty 
 dome, which sixteen centuries ago stood gleaming from its 
 ivory-polished surface above the trees and spires which dotted 
 the landscape, now stands a desolate mountain of ruined brick- 
 work, over which the forest has crept in pity of its forlorn 
 appearance. Its original height is open to question. It is 
 said to have been three hundred and fifteen feet, but at present 
 it is no more than two hundred and fifty. Like the other 
 dagaha already described it was restored at various periods, 
 and its original outline may have been altered. The spire 
 which still crowns the dome was probably added when the 
 dagaba was restored by King Parakrama Bahu in the eleventh 
 century. Sir Emerson Tennent's pithv remarks upon this 
 monument cannot be overlooked by any writer on Anuradha- 
 pura, and must be reproduced here : — 
 
 "The solid mass of masonry in this vast mound is pro- 
 digious. Its diameter is three hundred and sixty feet, and its 
 present height (including the pedestal and spire) two hundred 
 and forty-nine ieet ; so that the contents of the semi-circular 
 dome of brickwork and the platform of stone seven hundred 
 and twenty feet square and fifteen feet high exceed twenty 
 millions of cubic feet. Even with the facilities which modern 
 invention supplies for economising labour, the building of such 
 a mass would at present occupy five hundred bricklayers from 
 six to seven years, and would involve an expenditure of at least 
 a million sterling. The materials are sufficient to raise eight 
 thousand houses, each with twenty feet frontage, and these 
 would form thirty streets half a mile in length. They would 
 construct a town the size of Ipswich or Coventry ; the\- would 
 line an ordinary railway tunnel twenty miles long, or form a 
 wall one foot in thickness and ten feet in height, reaching from 
 London to Edinburgh. Such are the dagahas of Anuradhapura, 
 structures whose stupendous dimensions and the waste and
 
 687. THE JETAWANARAMA ACROSS THE BASAWAK KU^AM. 
 
 683. REMAINS OF PAVILION WITH DUPLICATED PEDIMENT.
 
 689. CARVED STELE AT ABHAYAGIRIYA DAGABA.
 
 THE BOOK OI- Cm'LOX 573 
 
 misapplication of labour la\ishcd on tlum arc hardly outdone Anuradhfipurfi 
 even in the instance of the I'yraniids of Kgvpt." jiiauMr.uninia 
 
 All the large cla<:;ahas correspond so closely in general 
 design that when you ha\e sien one you may be said to have 
 seen all. Differences exist only in the numerous small struc- 
 tures with which the platforms abound, and in the details of 
 the ornamentation. 'Ihe Jetawanarama, for instance, has a 
 railing in brickwork, of the form known as a " Buddhist rail- 
 ing " — which we shall see also in stone — upon each face of 
 the cube above the dome. The drum sustaining the spire was 
 also the subject of considerable ornamentation, and has eight 
 niches in which probably statues were placed. Another pecu- 
 liarity has been noticed in the shape of the bricks with which 
 the dome was faced. They were very large and wedge-shaped. 
 The measurement of one was found to be : length, eighteen 
 inches ; breadth, twelve inches at one end and nine and a half 
 at the other ; thickness, three and a half inches at the broad 
 end and three inches at the other. Some of the panels that 
 decorate the steke of the altars ha\e unusual characteristics, 
 particularly one in \\hi( h a male figure is represented as leading 
 an animal by a rope ; and in the panel below a dancing woman 
 attired in transparent clothing. On the paved platforms are 
 lying many enormous slabs and portions of small structures, 
 which show clearly the thoroughness of the destruction carried 
 out by the Tamils. The accumulation of earth around the base 
 of the dome is some thirty feet de.p, rendering excavation a 
 somewhat formidable task. 
 
 In close proximity to the great jitaw aiiai'ama diii^nhd are 
 five buildings in one enclosure measuring two hundred feet 
 square. In the centre stood the principal pavilion, the ruins of 
 which are shown in plate (i<S8. At tlu' four (orners of the 
 enclosure were the subsidiary ediliccs, iiou' only traceable by 
 a few stone pillars that mark the site of each. Only so much 
 of the central pa\ilion as is seen in this plate has been ex- 
 cavated, but it suilices to show some exquisite car\ing and to 
 give some idea of the importance of the building. Ihe hand- 
 some stylobate measures sixty-two by forty-two feet, and had 
 a beautifully moulded base of finely-wrought granite. The 
 superstructure has entirely disappeared. The (light of steps at 
 the entrance needs very few words of d scription, as it can be 
 seen in oui" illustration (Plate (190). Tlie landing is a line 
 monolith thirteen feet long and eight wide. On either side of 
 the landing is a grotesque iigure. A coping skirts the landing 
 on each side, and terminates in a rectangular l)lock ornamented 
 with a panel containing a seated lion beautifully carved in high 
 relief. This is one of the ix st pieces of sculpture we shall meet 
 with. The strength of tiie beast is well brought out, while the
 
 57 A 
 
 tup: hook of ckvi.on 
 
 Amirfldhfipiirji ^pijftt.d p;,\v and the look of defiance are most suggestive. But 
 as remarkable as the skill of the craftsman is its preservation, 
 exposed and uninjured during so many centuries. The steps 
 are ornamented by squatting figures of men who appear to be 
 supporting the tread ; these, too, are well carved ; the hands 
 are pressed upon the knees ; the waist is girdled, and a jewelled 
 band falls over the shoulders ; from the head waving curls are 
 flowing ; their ears, arms, elbows, wrists and ankles are 
 adorned with jewelled rings and bangles, 'fhe pilasters on 
 either side of each figure are carved in similar minute detail 
 and represent bundles of leaves. 
 
 The moonstone /\t the foot of the stcps Hcs the best preserved moonstone 
 
 yet discovered. The moonstone, it may be observed, is almost 
 peculiar to Sinhalese architecture, and is a semicircular slab 
 forming the doorstep to the principal entrance of a building. 
 Its ornamentation varies considerably, as may be seen on com- 
 paring plate 6go with plate 691. In our specimen (Plate 690) 
 the innermost fillet contains a floral scroll of lilies ; next comes 
 a row of the hansa, or sacred goose, each carrying in its beak 
 a lotus-bud with two small leaves ; then comes a very handsome 
 scroll of flowers and leaves ; after this is a procession of 
 elephants, horses, lions and bulls; and, lastly, a border of rich 
 foliage. All this carving is as sharp and well defined as if it 
 were fresh from the sculptor's chisel, and this in spite of an 
 interval of sixteen hundred years. 
 
 Guard stones Guard stones and wing stones doubtless formed part of the 
 
 decoration of these handsome steps, but they have entirely 
 disappeared. The dvarpal stones which face one another on the 
 landing are not so well preserved as the steps, owing to their 
 being exposed while the lower portion of the structure was buried. 
 Our illustration [Plate 688) represents another of these 
 buildings, which has been called the Queen's Pavilion, but was 
 doubtless a xvihdre, or shrine. The most noticeable feature is 
 its massive stylobate of dressed granite ornamented by base 
 mouldings of a very massive character. The pediment is unlike 
 any other that has been discovered, being duplicated and 
 carried higher than usual. 
 
 The forest is everywhere teeming with ruins awaiting dis- 
 covery and excavation. Sometimes the only sign of an impor- 
 tant edifice is a single pillar or group of pillars standing above 
 the ground, or perhaps a portion of some stairway which has 
 not yet become entirely hidden by earth. A few years ago 
 Mr. S. M. Burrows discovered the most perfect door-guardians 
 and flight of steps yet unearthed by a very slight indication of 
 the kind referred to. These form the subject of our illustra- 
 tion, plate 691. I quote Mr. Burrows's own words in refer- 
 ence to them from his Archctological report : ' ' The extreme tip
 
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 L. 
 
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 1 
 
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 fe-_ 
 
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 1 
 
 
 ^- .._ f,4ri.^- -- - _^.i»S • ,.. 
 
 i 
 
 . -i-: .^^^^^^ -^'^^- ^ 
 
 
 BB^r2^^J||SW»?-«W"«Mi»^*M*iPiBW 
 
 ^^^^^^" ' 
 
 S^-;. 
 
 
 mli^mSSm^!^eii^amimammmmJX9mam 
 
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 T ' -7 ■- 'i^ 
 
 ■ '-'-.j-^' \, 
 
 
 ■J 
 
 
 BP^^^^^^!K?^^^|®IHBP^ 
 
 
 B 
 
 690. MOONSTONE AND STEPS. 
 
 .t GUARD STONES MAKARA TORANA AND STEPS.
 
 692, GALGE, 
 
 k P ! I I 
 
 693 DALADA MALIGAWA.
 
 THK BOOK OF Cl-:VLOX 577 
 
 of what appeared to be a ' dorapaluwa ' (cloor-s^uardian stone), Anuridhfipun 
 and some fine pillars at a little distance from it, in\ited excava- 
 tion. The result was highly satisfactory. A vihara of the 
 first class, measuring about eighty feet by sixty, was gradually 
 unearthed, with perhaps the finest flight of stone steps in the 
 ruins. The ' moonstone,' though very large, presents the lotus 
 only, without the usual concx'ntric circles of animal figures ; 
 but one at least of the door-guardian stones, standing over five 
 feet high, is unrivalled in excellence of preservation and delicacy 
 of finish. Every detail, both of the central figure and its two 
 attendants, stands out as clear and perfect as when it was first 
 carved; for the stone had fallen head downwards, and was 
 buried under seven or eight feet of earth." 
 
 Our illustration (Plate 692) represents a galgc, or hermit's Gaigi 
 cell, excavated out of the natural rock, with an outer wall of 
 brick. This is a place of considerable interest. The rock, 
 which is a huge hummock about one hundred and twenty yards 
 long, bears signs of having been extensively quarried for other 
 buildings. Wedge marks, as in our illustration, appear in many 
 parts, giving" indications ol tlic niamur in wliii li the builders 
 detached the huge monoliths found e\er\ u lure, and going far 
 to prove that two thousand years ago they used a method which 
 was introduced into I"!urope in the nineteenth century. 
 
 Near this cave ruins abound; the basements of upwards of 
 twenty buildings, several fine pokunas, and quite a forest of 
 pillars arc visible. 
 
 We have already referred to Kitsiri Maiwan I., who finished The paiada 
 the great Jetawanarama begun by his father, Maha Sen. In ' " '^"" 
 the ninth year of his reign, .v.D. 311, the famous tooth-relic of 
 Buddha was brought to Ceylon by a princess who in time of 
 war is said to have fled to Ceylon for safety with the tooth con- 
 cealed in the coils of her hair. The Dalada Maligawa, or 
 Temple of the Tooth, was then built for its reception within 
 the Thuparama entlosure. The ruins of this famous temple 
 are well worthy of inspection. The building appears to have 
 consisted of an entrance hall, an ante-chamber, and a relic- 
 chamber. Our illustration shows the moulded jambs and lintel 
 of the entrani-e to the ante-chamber still /;; ,s///(. The jirin- 
 cipal chainbcr is interesting lor its curiouslx carxcd pillars, 
 the heads of which are worked into a design often supposed to 
 represent the sacred tooth. At the principal entrance there is 
 a handsome flight of stone steps, at the foot of which is a richly 
 sculptured moonstone and a dvarpal on either side. The origin 
 of the I'erahara fistixals, still held annually at Kandy, and 
 which have been described on page 311, dates from the erection 
 of this temple from which the tooth was upon festival occasions 
 borne through the streets of Anuradhapura on the back of a
 
 578 'I" HI-: iu)()K oi" c^:^■L()^' 
 
 AnuriUiiuipiira uli'itc ck'pli.int uliiih wus iilvvays kept at the temple for the 
 purpose. J)uriiig the invasions of the Malabars, when the 
 temple was more than once destroyed, the sacred relic was on 
 several occasions removed for safety and thus preserved, but 
 at length, in the fourteenth century, it was seized and carried 
 off to India. The Sinhalese king Parakrama Bahu III., how- 
 e\-er, by proceeding to India successfully negotiated its ransom 
 and brought it back again. There is a story of its having 
 been taken and destroyed by the Portuguese at a later date, 
 and although luiropeans consider the evidences of this final 
 mishap as historical, the natives are satisfied that the original 
 relic still exists in the temple at Kandy and regard it with the 
 greatest veneration. 
 
 Moiiern native As wc wander from one part of the sacred city to another 
 
 ' '" '"'''^ and inspect remains which suggest a past of such grandeur 
 
 and prosiDcrity it is somewhat depressing to notice the squalid 
 appearance of the modern native dAvellings and their in- 
 habitants. Notwithstanding much has been done of late years 
 to improve their lot by reviving means of cultivation, and 
 although the fever demon has been banished by the removal 
 of large tracts of jungle and forest, still the sight of the mud 
 dwellings roofed with leaves and sticks amidst the signs of 
 former magnificence gives rise to grave reflections. For the 
 most part the miserable remnant of the native population live 
 only on kurrukan, something like millet, not being even able 
 to afford rice. 
 
 Tohiu'iia The native annals give many particulars of the streets of 
 
 the ancient city, but considering how deeply buried are the 
 foundations of buildings traces of the streets are ditlficult to 
 find. There is, however, one of considerable interest at Tolu- 
 wila, a couple of miles east from the centre of the city (Plate 
 695). Here for several hundred yards the way is paved, and on 
 either side there are remains of many buildings. At intervals 
 where the road rises and falls there are flights of steps. In 
 the vicinity there are a good many indications of K'iJuires and 
 a small ihif^aba. It is very likely that this was within the 
 sacred part of the ancient city. 
 
 The facilities afforded by the Ceylon Government Railway 
 will now enable thousands from every country to explore 
 Anuradhapura, which has at length taken its rightful place 
 amongst the most alluring monuments of the ancient world. 
 
 Polonnaruwa When, owing to centuries of strife with invaders from 
 
 southern India, the permanent decay of the city became 
 inevitable, the seat of the Government was transferred to 
 Polonnaruwa, fifty miles to the south-east, which rose to a 
 greatness that almost eclipsed the older capital. Although the 
 railway does not reach this latter city, it is accessible to the
 
 b94 NATIVE DWELLINGS, 
 
 COj TOLU^^ 
 
 696. POLONNARUWA LAID WASTE OY THE TAMILS IN THE YEAR 1:TS
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 581 
 
 traveller, and some reference to it may therefore be expected Poionnaruwa 
 here. 
 
 It is best to visit I'olonnaruwa after Dambulla and Sigiri. 
 From Habarane rest-house, which is a comfortable hostelry 
 (on the Trincomali road five miles beyond the turn to Sigiri), 
 it is twenty-six miles to Polonnaruwa. There is now a good 
 road for the whole distance. As Polonnaruwa is now being 
 explored by the archaeological commissioner, facilities and 
 accommodation for the \'isitor will doubtless quickly follow. 
 Enquiries should therefore be made loc'all}' upon these matters. 
 At the fourteenth mile we reach the lake of Minneria, which is MUmctia 
 one of the most exquisite things in Ceylon. Killarney and 
 other well-known beautiful expanses of water and woodland 
 may be mentioned in comparison, but at Minneria there are 
 many additional charms, of which climate is not the least. 
 The islands and woodlands unexplored for a thousand \ears 
 are so thoroughly things of nature. Then the creatures e\ery- 
 where add to the romance ; the myriads of curious birds, many 
 of great size and magnificent plumage ; the crocodiles lazily 
 basking upon the banks, and the spotted deer often darting 
 across the open glades. Even the knowhdge that the elephant, 
 the bear, and the leopard, though out of sight, are present in 
 large numbers, lends additional interest to a scene which is 
 beyond description. 
 
 Polonnaruwa had been a place of royal residence in the Polonnaruwa 
 palmiest days of the older city, but it was not till the eighth aijiiai"" 
 century that it was adopted as the seat of government. The 
 decay of Anuradh;lpur;i had been creeping on e\er simx^ the 
 days of Kasyapa and the fortification of Sigiri. Internecine 
 war fostered by rival branches of the royal house, no less than 
 the interminable struggles with the Tamil invaders, hastened its 
 downfall. The history of the sixth and seventh centuries is a 
 story of bloodshed and anarch} ; the murders of a dozen kings, 
 conspiracies, and the assassination of high and low, made 
 violent death an excrxdav oicurri'nce; wholesal,' emii^ration 
 set in; culti\ation was interrupted, and buildings and irrigation 
 works alike were destroyed or neglected. At length the Tamils, 
 taking every adxantage of internal dissension among the 
 nati\'es, so strengthened their position in and around .\nur;idha- 
 pura that the only means of the Sinhalese Cio\ernment retain- 
 ing any pretence of power la\ in retiring before them. These 
 circumstances led to the establishment of Polonnaruwa as the 
 capital, and the fate of Anur;i(lh;'ipur,'i was sealed, for wIhmi 
 abandoned to the Tamils its debasement ;iiui ruin were assured. 
 UnfortunateK the\' wvw the worst t\|)e of concjuerors. While 
 overthrowing the Sinhalese authority they made no attempt to 
 introduce any order of their own, but rather encouraged and
 
 582 THK BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Poionnnriiwa aljc'ttccl cvcry lawlcss effort at destruction. No wonder, then, 
 at the spectacle of ruin and desolation presented by Anuradha- 
 purd after a few years of Tamil dominion. 
 
 The new capital, however, soon made amends, and grew 
 with amazing rapidity until in its religious buildings, its royal 
 palaces, its lakes and gardens, it eclipsed the older city in 
 splendour as it did in extent. It was not, however, to remain 
 long in tranquillity. The Tamils soon made their way thither, 
 and the old struggle was repeated. Sometimes under a strong 
 native king religion flourished and a spell of general prosperity 
 was experienced, only to be followed by a period of disaster 
 and destruction. 
 I'iuakrama the That the Sinhalese should ha\e been able notwithstanding 
 
 '^'""'^ this constant disquiet to build and maintain a city of such un- 
 
 rivalled wealth, beauty, and power, is proof enough of the 
 splendid qualities of the race. For one century only, however, 
 during the Polonnaruwan epoch did they have a fair opportunity 
 of exercising their natural faculties to full advantage. What 
 they needed were freedom from the harassing incursions of 
 marauders and a cessation of domestic rivalry amongst their 
 rulers. These they obtained about the middle of the twelfth 
 century, when there arose a genuine hero who commanded the 
 allegiance of all his subjects. This monarch, Parakrama the 
 Great, not only regained possession of the whole of the country 
 by quieting all disaffection and expelling the Tamils, but even 
 invaded India and other more distant countries. Under his 
 rule the city of Polonnaruwa reached the zenith of its greatness, 
 and we shall best gather the story of the desolate but impressive 
 remains by a review of Parakrama 's reign as related in the 
 Mahawansa. 
 
 We may at once say that the reader need not regard either 
 the noble qualities or the innumerable great works which the 
 historian assigns to this monarch as one whit extravagant or 
 romantic, as they are fully attested by existing evidence. 
 
 In his youth we are told he was quick in the attainment of 
 arts and sciences, and by the help of a higher wisdom he per- 
 fected himself in the knowledge of law, religion, logic, poetry, 
 and music, and in the manly arts of riding and the use of the 
 sword and the bow. He seems to have studied the arts of 
 peace equally with those of war, and it is remarkable that even 
 before he had entered upon the campaigns that were to bring 
 the whole country under his dominion he formed his plans for 
 restoring prosperity to the soil. In his first speech to his 
 ministers he is reported to have said: "In a country like this 
 not even the least quantity of rain water should be allowed to 
 flow into the ocean without profiting man. . . . Remember 
 that it is not meet that men like unto us should li^"c and enjoy
 
 699. THE JETAWANARAMA AT POLONNARUVVA.
 
 THE HOOK OF CKVLOX 585 
 
 what has come into our hands and care not for the people. Polonnaruwa 
 Let there not be left anywhere in my kingdom a piece of hind, I'aiakmmathe 
 though it be of the smallest dimensions, that docs not yield ^"'" 
 some benefit to man." 
 
 To strengthen his hand before he entered upon the conquest 
 of the rebellious tribes he arranged for the residence in his own 
 palaces of the youth of all the noble families that they might 
 grow up " familiar with the service of kings and become skilled 
 in managing horses and elephants and in fencing." 
 
 Finding the wealth that he had inherited insulhcient for the 
 prosecution of his plans, he devised means of filling his treasury 
 without (oppressing the people. He increased the export of 
 gems, and placed trustworthy officers over the revenue. And 
 in order that the efficiency of his army might be improved he 
 instituted mock battles, and personally selected the most 
 dexterous for places of honour in the field. 
 
 When every department was perfect and his nialci-icl of war 
 prepared, he entered upon a series of contests with the various 
 chieftains who still held possession of the greater part of the 
 country. We pass over the particulars of the battles that he 
 fought and won, our purpose being rather to follow the fortunes 
 of the royal city. 
 
 When the various pretenders and disaffected tribes had 
 been subdued or won over, as much by admiration of the great 
 Parakrama as by the force of his arms, he submitted to a second 
 coronation, which is described by the historian in the following 
 words: — "On that day the deafening sound of divers drums 
 was terrible, even as the rolling of the ocean when it is shaken 
 to and fro by the tempest at the end of the world. And the 
 elephants, decked with coverings of gold, made the street 
 before the palace to look as if clouds had descended thereon 
 with flashes of lightning ; and with the prancing of the steeds 
 of war the whole city on that day seemed to wave even like the 
 sea. And the sky was wholly shut out of sight with rows of 
 umbrellas of dixcrs colours and witli liius of tlags of gold. 
 And there was the waxing of garments and the clapping of 
 hands. And the inhabitants of the city shouted, saying, ' Live ! 
 O live ! great king ! ' And there was feasting over the whole 
 land, which was hlled with arches of plantains intermingled 
 with rows of ilower-pots ; and hundreds of minstrels i-hanted 
 songs of praise, and the air was lilKcl with the smoke of sweet 
 incense. Many persons also arrayed themsehes in cloths of 
 di\'ers colours and det'ked themsehes in ornaments of dixcrs 
 kinds; and the great soldiers who were practised in war, mightv 
 men, armed with dixers kinds of weapons, and with the mien 
 of graceful heroes, moved about hither and thither like unto 
 elephants that had broken a^uiukr th ir bonds. 
 
 2 M
 
 Oiml 
 
 586 Till': iu)()K ()!• (■I•:^■LoN 
 
 Polonnnriiwn " By rcasoii of the m;m\- arclui's also, \\h(j walked about 
 
 i\iutkiaiiui Du with their bows in their liands, it seemed as il an army ol gods 
 had visited the land ; and the city with its multitude ol" palaces, 
 gorgeously decorated with gold and gems and pearls, seemed 
 like unto the firmament that is studded with stars. 
 
 " And this mighty king, with eyes that were long like the 
 lil\-, caused many wonderful and marvellous things to be dis- 
 played, and adorned himself with divers ornaments, and 
 ascended a golden stage supported on the backs of two 
 elephants that were covered with cloth of gold. And he bore 
 on his head a crown that shone with the rays of gems, like as 
 the eastern mountain beareth the glorious and rising sun. And 
 casting into the shade the beauty of spring by the strength oi 
 his own beauty, he drew tears of joy from the eyes of the 
 beautiful women of the city. And he marched round the city, 
 beaming with the signs of happiness, and, like unto the god 
 with the thousand eyes, entered the beauteous palace of the 
 king." 
 
 Peace being established and the ceremony of the second 
 coronation over, Parakrama applied himself at once to the 
 advancement of religion and the welfare of the people. 
 Buddhism had been riven to its very core by heresies and 
 distracted by the disputes of its various fraternities ; the great 
 families had been ruined and scattered ; crowds of poor were 
 starving without any ordered means of relief ; and the sick 
 were absolutely uncared for. The king first brought about a 
 reconciliation of the rival religious brotherhoods, a task in 
 which his predecessors had for centuries failed, and which cost 
 him more labour than the re-establishment of the kingdom. 
 He erected alms-halls in every quarter of the city, making 
 them beautiful with gardens, and endowing them with every 
 necessity for the poor. He next built hospitals for the sick, 
 in w'hom he took great personal interest, being himself a skilled 
 physician. These were equipped with a staff so ample that no 
 sick person was at any moment left without an attendant ; and 
 the king himself was their visitor, showing great pity and 
 enquiring fully of the physicians as to their manner of treat- 
 ment, ofttimes administering medicine with his own hands. 
 Thus did his great natural kindness of heart endear him to the 
 people. 
 
 Having secured the happiness of his people so long op- 
 pressed, he proceeded to enlarge and adorn the famous city of 
 Polonnaruwa. W'ith an ardent resolve that the works upon 
 which he was about to spend great treasure should not suffer 
 the fate of those of his predecessors, which were so frequently 
 plundered by the invader, he turned his attention especially to 
 the question of fortifications. He placed a chain of massive
 
 THE HOOK OF CKVLOX 587 
 
 ramparts around the city and within this three lesser walls. Polonnaruwa 
 There is not much doubt of the existeni-e of these, and their riuakutm,i the 
 e\'entual discoxery will be a subject ol great int -rest to future 
 explorers. 
 
 Althoug;h Parakrama is credited with such genuine solicitude 
 for his people that his memory even now is re\ered, he was not 
 less mindful of his own temporal comforts. He built for him- 
 self the \'ejayanta, a palace of great splendour. It had seven 
 stories, and its thousand rooms were no less remarkable for 
 the massive and beautiful pillars that supported the floors than 
 for its roof, which was surmounted by hundreds of ])innacles 
 wrought in precious metals. The furnishing was equally 
 sumptuous, from carpets of great value to th:.' tables inlaid 
 with ivory and gold. 
 
 The religious buildings erected b\ him during his reign of 
 thirty-three years were very numerous, and for the most part 
 of colossal proportion. Amongst them, as showing the king's 
 toleration of all religious systems, is mentioned one for " pro- 
 pitiatory rites to be performed therein by Brahmans "; as well 
 as a circular house " where he himself might listen to the 
 jatakas of Buddha, read by the learned priest who dwelt there." 
 
 Xor were places of entertainment omitteti. lie built theatres 
 glittering with golden pillars, and delighted the assemblage 
 with paintings representing scenes of their hero's exploits ; 
 halls of recreation in which it seemed "as if the hall of 
 assembly of the gods had descended to the earth, and the 
 manners and customs of the whole world had been gathered 
 together into one place." 
 
 The native chronicle refers to a temple built in the reign of 
 Parakrama for the relic of Buddha's tooth. It is said to ha\e 
 shone with roofs, doors, and windows of gold, and countless 
 works of art both withm and without, and to have been 
 ornamented with canopies of divers colours. " It was like 
 unto the palace of the goddess of beauty, and shone with a 
 lustre so great that all that was delightful on earth seemed to 
 have been gathered together and brought into one place." 
 
 The Mahawansa has also many references to the pleasant 
 parks and gardens of the city in which the ornamental baths 
 so frequently met with amongst the ruins were a special feature. 
 One of the gardeiis is said to have been famous for '' a bathing 
 hall that chizzled the eyes of the beholder, and from which 
 issued forth sprays of water conducted through pipes h\ means 
 of machines, making the place to look as if the clouds jioured 
 (low II va\u without ceasing." 
 
 Most of till' remains of the city thus nobl_\- enri( lied b\ the 
 greatest of Sinhalese kings are buried beneath main feet of 
 soil or hidden in the dense forest that has overgrown tlu' inaiu
 
 588 riii'; I'.ooK oi" ci:\i/).\ 
 
 l>(ilonniirii\va tli()iis;ni(ls ol ;irr(s nvvv \\lii< li ihcy cxlciul ; but main- liavc 
 already been niadj accessible. 'I he da^ahas lia\c all the 
 characteristics of their prototypes at Anuradhapura save that 
 of equal antiquity, so we will not repeat descriptions already 
 given, but merely remark that they are numerous and in some 
 cases ol enormous dimensions. We shall find more advantage 
 in interesting ourselves in those ruins which are distinctly 
 characteristic of the mediaeval city. 
 
 jtt<wiinai(\ma l<"irst, let US glance at the Jetawanarama temple, perhaps 
 
 the most imposing pile remaining (Plates (•)C)C) and 700). It is 
 a building of one hundred and seventy feet in length with walls 
 about twelve feet thick and eighty feet high. Though built 
 of red brick it appears to have been plastered with chuiiam, 
 which still adheres in patches, as may easily be seen by refer- 
 ence to plate 699. This is a view from the east showing the 
 entrance between the two polygonal turrets. The warm tints 
 of the crumbling bricks interspersed with lighter patches where 
 the polished chunam still remains have a pleasing effect in the 
 masses of green forest around, the complete scene when sud- 
 denly bursting on the sight being perhaps the most impressive 
 we shall meet with. The dilapidated figure of Buddha, sixty 
 feet high, opposite the entrance, gives a crestfallen appearance 
 to the whole. The exterior decoration of the building is dis- 
 tinctly Hindu in character, which is the more strange when 
 we consider that the Jetawana, after which this temple and its 
 adjoining monastery are supposed to be built, was the famous 
 temple of Buddha himself. But the curious mixture of Hindu 
 character with that which is purely Buddhist is a special feature 
 of the Polonnaruwan buildings. The cause is rather difficult 
 to determine. It may be due to the influence of the victorious 
 Hindus, who at intervals held the island during several cen- 
 turies, combined with the broad eclecticism of Buddhism, but 
 it is a question too abstruse and speculative to enter upon here. 
 There are doubtless beneath the soil foundations of many 
 noble buildings around this temple. The native chronicle refers 
 to eight stately houses of three stories built for the priests, and 
 for the chief priest a mansion of great splendour containing' 
 many halls and chambers, also seventy image houses of three 
 stories, besides a great number of lesser halls and libraries. 
 
 rhiipamma 'yhc Thuparama illustrated by plates 701 and 70^ is no less 
 
 interesting and picturesque. It is an oblong brick building 
 with a square tower. The walls are very massive, and for the 
 most part quite five feet thick. It was to some extent explored 
 by Mr. S. M. Burrows in 1886, and the following is an extract 
 from his report to the Government : — " The entrance to and 
 interior of this curious building' was almost entirely blocked 
 up with fallen masonry and other debris. This has been
 
 700. JETAWANARAMA FROM THE SOUTH-WEST. 
 
 ,u\. IML THUPARAMA.
 
 702. ENTRANCE OF THE THUPARAMA. 
 
 r03. SAT-MAHAL-PRASADA.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 591 
 
 removed at a considerable cost of labour, for most of the fallen Poionnaruwa 
 blocks of masonry were so large that they had to be broken //^.^^.l"M 
 up with the pickaxe before removal was possible. But the 
 labour was well expended, for the inner and principal shrine is 
 one of the very few buildings remaining to us in either capital 
 with a perfect roof; certainly the only building of such a size, 
 and it presents 1 very remarkable example of the dimensions 
 to which the false arch was capable of attaining. The frag- 
 ments of no less than twelve statues of Buddha (none quite, 
 though some very nearly, perfect) were found in this shrine, 
 while at the foot of the large brick statue of Buddha which 
 stands against the western wall a large granite slab or stone 
 seat {' gal-iisanaya ') was uncovered, with an excellently pre- 
 served inscription running round its four sides." 
 
 The following is a translation of the inscription referred to : 
 
 '•His Majesty, Kalinga Chakrawarti Parakrama Bahu, who was a 
 descendant of the Okaka race, having made all Lanka's isle to 
 appear like a festive island, having made all Lanka like unto a 
 wishing-tree, having made all Lanka like unto an incomparably 
 decorated house, having subjugated in war Sita, Choda, Gauda, etc., 
 went to Maha Dambadiwa with great hosts ; and seeing that because 
 of his coming kings and others left their countries and came to 
 him for protection, he treated them with kindness and stilled their 
 fears ; and having met with no rival after his landing in Dambadiwa, 
 he erected pillars of victory, and again came to Lanka's isle. Lanka 
 having been neglected for a long time, he erected alms-houses at 
 different places throughout the whole of Dambadiwa and Ceylon ; 
 and on his return spent ever so much treasure on mendicants. Not 
 being content with all this, he determined on a distribution of alms 
 four times in every year, and by (giving) gold, jewels, cloth, 
 ornaments, etc., having extinguished the poverty of the inhabitants 
 of the world, and done good to the world and to religion, this is 
 the seat on which he sat to allay l)ody weariness." 
 
 The Thuparama is suffering greatly from the inroads of 
 vegetation. I'arasitic plants take root in the crevices, and 
 growing into great trees rend the walls. 
 
 The Sat-mahal-prasada, or palace of seven stories, is f"','"l^l^"'' 
 another building the origin of which is veiled in mystery. 
 Statues ornament each storey, and there are traces of a stair- 
 case within, but it does not appear to lead to the summit, which 
 can only be reached from without by means of ladders. There 
 is an exterior flight of steps leading however only to the top 
 of the first storey. 
 
 The most venerable of all the relics of Buddha, the tooth, 
 experienced so many vicissitudes and translations during the 
 Tamil wars that the stories of its various hiding places, and 
 the temples built for its reception, as recorded in the ancient 
 chronicles, are somewhat confusing. In the account of Para- 
 krama's foundation at I'olonnaruwa we read of the beautiful
 
 592 
 
 tup: t^ook of ^r•:^'LON 
 
 Polonnnruwn trmplc lie built ; and very little later again the historian tells of 
 /),i/,i</<i tlic tein|)le built for it in the same city by Nissanka Malla, who 
 
 Miiiii;<imt t-ame to the throne a.d. i icjcS, only two years after Parakrama's 
 
 death. And as there are other allusions to the arrival of the 
 tooth ;it i'oloiinariiwa at a later date, it may well be inferred 
 that it was at wirious intervals removed for safety. It is 
 curious, ho\\(\ r, that both Farakrama and Nissanka Malla 
 should have built magnificent temples for the same object about 
 the same date, and to which of these kings to ascribe the 
 building known as the Dalada Maligawa at Polonnaruwa, the 
 r. -mains of which present the most beautiful specimen of stone 
 work vet discovered (see plate 704), it is difficult to decide. The 
 Mahawansa savs that Nissanka " built of stone the beautiful 
 temple of the tooth relic," and what we see is generally at- 
 tributed to him ; but possibly the earlier description refers to 
 the same building, although it is generally supposed that Para- 
 krama's shrine was a curious and elaborate circular building 
 known as the Wata Ddge, and that a second temple was built 
 for the tooth by Nissanka. 
 
 It will be noticed from our plate that, considering its age, 
 the stone work is in beautiful preservation. The roof has 
 gone, but the mouldings and toolings of the granite have 
 scarcely suffered at all from their exposure of seven centuries. 
 Gaiwihiin Qj^g ^f ^j^g most interesting of the discoveries at Polon- 
 
 naruwa is a rock temple with three colossal figures and a shrine 
 carved out of one huge boulder of dark brown granite (Plate 
 705). This is known as the Gal iviharc. In spite of appear- 
 ances these figures are still part of the rock in which they were 
 hewn. The work is very cleverly done, and especially the 
 recumbent statue of Buddha, which is forty-six feet in length. 
 The head rests upon the right hand supported on a bolster into 
 which it sinks very naturally, suggesting nothing but perfect 
 repose ; the folds of the robe are also carved with equal felicity. 
 The erect statue is thought to represent Anada, the favourite 
 disciple of Buddha. It is twenty-three feet high, and stands on 
 a pedestal ornamented with lotus leaves. Beyond this is the 
 entrance to the temple itself, and within an altar and an image 
 of Buddha in sitting posture, all carved out of the same rock 
 in similar high relief. The shrine has been profusely decorated 
 and coloured by modern devotees. At the farther end will be 
 noticed a large sitting statue of Buddha, the figure alone being 
 fifteen feet high. It is a most elaborate work, with a back- 
 ground of carxed pagodas, and the pedestal is ornamented 
 with a frieze of lions and quaint emblems. There is no doubt 
 as to the date of this striking and curious specimen of rock 
 temple, as it is referred to in the Mahawansa as the work of the 
 great Parakrama.
 
 704. THE DALADA MALIGAWA AT POLONNARUWA. 
 
 i:j. UML VVlMMKt
 
 706. MINNERIA. 
 
 707. SUPPOSED STATUE OF PARAKRAMA THE GREAT.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 595 
 
 A complete description of even those ruins that have been Poionnaruwa 
 discovered in the explorations that have been made with such 
 limited resources is bex'oiid the scope of the present work. 
 How many still lie hidden in the dense forest it is impossible 
 to say, but when we look at the records of only those which 
 were built during; one or two of the most prosperous reigns we 
 cannot help being- impressed with the possibilities of the great 
 " finds " that will be made when the whole province is again 
 cleared and l)r(>ughl under cultiN alion. 'I'lie railways will 
 convey thousands of visitors Irom every part of the world to 
 these ancient cities, which will surely find their rightful place 
 among the monuments of the world. 
 
 We must not take our leave of the Polonnaruwan remains 
 without a glimpse at one which seems to deserve a parting 
 glance. A walk of a little more than a mile along the lofty 
 embankment of the Topawewa, one of the most remarkable 
 instances of the highest art concealing itself, and more beau- 
 tiful than ever now that it has been left for so many centuries 
 to the great artificer, Nature, brings us to a large hummock of 
 rock abruptly rising from the plain. In this rock is a striking 
 statue of King Parakrama carved, like lliat of the recumbent 
 Buddha, in the solid rot k (IMat(> 707J. Tin' monarch, who 
 raised most of the temples and monuments of the city, stands 
 with his back to liis great works holding an ola, or palm leaf 
 book, in his hands as if at the end of his glorious reign he had 
 found in the study of the Buddhist scriptures his final con- 
 solation. 
 
 With the death of Parakrama in 1107 the power of the Dcclmcofthc 
 Smhalese nation began to declme. ror a tew years only at 
 the beginning of the thirteenth century was the country again 
 under capable government. 'Vhc prosperity and wealth to 
 w^hich the city had attained only served to excite the rapacity 
 of invaders. The Tamils, twenty thousand strong, under a 
 chief named Magha, took Polonnaruwa in the year 1215 and 
 laid waste the w Iiole country. "This Magha," says the 
 Mahawansa, who was like unto a iierce drought, com- 
 manded his army of strong men to ransack the kingdom of 
 Lanka, even as a wild fire doth a forest. Thereupon these 
 wicked disturbers of the peace stalked about the land hither 
 and thither crying out boastfully, 'Lo! we are the giants of 
 Kerala.' And they robbed the inhabitants of their garlands 
 and their jewels and everything that they had. They cut off 
 also the hands and feet of the people and despoiled their 
 dwellings. Their oxen, buffaloes, and other l)easts the\' bound 
 up and carried away forcibly. The rich men they tied up with 
 cord and tortured, and took possession of all their wealth and 
 brought them to po\erty. They broke down the Image houses
 
 59^^ 
 
 I Fir: rK)OK of Ceylon 
 
 i.ionn iriiwa .111(1 (Icstfoyccl many cetiyas. They took up their dwellings in 
 the \iharas and beat the pious laymen therein. They (]o^g<:(\ 
 children and sorely distressed the five ranks of the reliijious 
 oidcrs. 'ihcv compelled the people to carry burdens and made 
 ihcin l.ihoui- lic.ixily. Many books also of g^reat excellence did 
 thev loose from the cords that bound them and cast them away 
 in divers phu^es. l*2ven the great and lofty cetiyas they spared 
 not, but utterly destroyed them, and caused a great many bodily 
 r;lic-s which were unto them as their lives to disappear thereby. 
 Alas ! alas ! Even so did those Tamil giants, like the giants of 
 Mara, destroy the kingdom and religion of the land. And then 
 they surrounded the city of Polonnaruwa on every side, and took 
 Parakrama Pandu captive and plucked out his eyes, and robbed 
 all the treasures that were therein with all the pearls and 
 precious stones. "* 
 
 * The quotations from the Mahawansa in this chapter have been taken 
 from the translation of Mudaliyar L. C. Wijesinha. 
 
 708. ELEPHANTS IN THE JUNGLE.
 
 THE NORTHERN LINK iriNKRARV 
 (Continued) 
 
 AnlradhaplrA to Kancesantl'rai. 
 
 Madawaciichi (97m. 31c.). — The rail\\a\ here approaches .Mudawachchi 
 and passes o\er the main road which leads to the Giant's Tank 
 and Manaar. The station takes its name from the nearest 
 village, which is situated at the junction of the Jaffna and 
 Manaar roads three miles distant. The cyclist or motorist can 
 easily \isit the Giant's Tank, which is thirty-five miles from 
 Madawachchi. It is one of the most stupendous of the ancient 
 irrigation works in the island, having a retaining bund three 
 hundred feet broad (see plates 11 and 12), which originally 
 extended for fifteen miles. There is a good rest-house at tlie 
 tank, as also at the \illage of Madawachchi. 
 
 X'avlniva (mm. 77c.). — Upon nearing \'a\ uniya we arrive \avuniya 
 m the Northern Pro\ince, the part of Ceylon which has for 
 centuries been known as the W'anni, comprising that portion 
 of the island w hich lies between Jaffna in the north, Manaar on 
 the west coast, and Trincomali on the east ; altogether about 
 2,000 square miles. The country is generally Hat and covered 
 with thick forest and jungle, save where masses of black rock 
 rear their gaunt heads above the foliage. Nevertheless here 
 and there a few hills lend a welcome relief to the monotony, as 
 do here the Madukanda range, which forms a background of 
 beauty to the \'a\uniya tank. i-or nine months of the year, 
 January to .September, it is the driest part of the island, and 
 cultivation depends on the numerous irrigation tanks. Only 
 one perennial fresh water lake exists in the whole province, and 
 this is said to Ije partly artilicial. The rivers How only during 
 the rains from October to l)cc;m]K^r ; at other times tliev are 
 mere beds ol dr\- sand. I he lion. Mr. J. 1'. Lewis sa\s lli.it, 
 "^•ie\\ing• the countrv from the top of one of the iiigh rocks 
 already noticed, nothing is seen but a sea of forest on all sides, 
 of different shades of green, \\ith here and there a dark mass 
 rising out of it indicating the site of another rock of the same
 
 598 TIIIC 150C)K ()!<■ CK^LON 
 
 Northern description. On tlu- horizon ;iic the (juthnes of one or two 
 i.inc hUii- hills, Mihintale or some other rock ot the North-Central 
 
 Vaviiniya I'ioxIikc. Not a xillage is to be distin<(uished, but in some 
 places a slii^ht bieak in the forest shows the position of a tank 
 and its paddy fields. 
 The siciuiy " TraveHing' along the roads, which for the most part pass 
 
 tli!'(»UL;h thi(-k jungle, one is sometimes oppressed with the 
 monotoin- of the forest, particularly where it is, as in some 
 places, ( oinposed almost entirely of one or two species of 
 sombre-looking trees, such as pi'tlai and virai. This is especially 
 the case on the main road to Jaffna, where, as the jungle has 
 been cleared back to some distance on each side of the road, 
 there is little shade. The forest scenery on some of the minor 
 roads, however, and on the old road to Mullaittlvu, is often 
 very picturesque, with long vistas through trees standing like 
 a series of columns on either side of the road, some of them 
 with curiously twisted trunks. Every shade of green, from the 
 darkest in some of the foliage trees to the brightest in the grass 
 which covers the road, flecked with sunlight, combines to add 
 to the effect. 
 
 " In the spring many of the trees put on new leaves, some 
 of w hich are very light green, and others, such as those of the 
 pcDiichchai, dark red. Fine views can generally be had at this 
 season across the tanks, bordered as they usually are by the 
 largest trees, the autumnal tints of some of the foliage helping 
 to set off the prevailing green. . . . Looking across the 
 lagoons one sees a long stretch of water bordered on the 
 horizon by a line of forest, to which distance gives a bluish tint. 
 Sometimes in the bright sunlight the atmosphere seems to 
 dance, and sky and water to merge into one in the far distance, 
 with clumps of trees suspended, as it were, in mid-air, the 
 general effect being very much that of a mirage. A sunset or 
 sunrise seen across this flat country is often very fine. ""^ 
 The people The inhabitants are mostly Tamils, with a sprinkling of 
 
 Sinhalese and Moormen. Their condition is very low in the 
 social scale. The villages consist of a few enclosed plots or 
 courtyards, each containing several rude huts built with mud 
 walls of about four feet high and a single door, to enter which 
 it is necessary to stoop very low. There are no windows, and 
 amid the semi-darkness of the interior the family reclines upon 
 the mud floor or at best upon mats, the whole dwelling being 
 innocent of furniture. Food consisting of kurrakan (a kind of 
 millet), or paddy, is kept in a receptacle constructed with sticks 
 interlaced in basket fashion and coated with mud, like the 
 hissa of the central pro\ inc-e described on page 396. The 
 
 * Manual of the Vanni Districts by J. P. Lewis, ISI. A., Ceylon Civil 
 Service.
 
 709. MADAWACHCHI STATION. 
 
 710. VAVUNIYA STATION.
 
 6oo Till-: I'.ooK oi- (■I•:^■L()\ 
 
 Northern courtyard is luiiiishcd uilli other necessaries to existence in 
 '•'"^" the shape oi earthenware jiots and mortars f(jr pounding grain, 
 
 Vuvuniya ;j,i(i ploughs, and is inliabited by poultry and the ubiquitous 
 ihttcofk pariah dog. In the more prosperous \iliages the squalid 
 dwelling is surrounded by a wealth of fruit trees, oranges, 
 limes, and plantains. Magnificent tamarind trees of great age 
 are also plentiful. The people exist in great poverty, and 
 apparently without any ambition to better their lot, and such is 
 their indolence that the offer of good wages will not stimulate 
 them to the slightest exertion. A paternal government exacts 
 from them a certain amount of communal labour in connection 
 with the irrigation of their lands, but even this they frequently 
 e\adc until compelled by prosecution under the ordinances that 
 have been framed for the common good. This lack of energy, 
 however, which is in striking contrast to the industry of their 
 brethren in the Jaffna peninsula, calls for sympathy, since it is 
 bred of the poverty-stricken conditions that have existed in 
 these districts during the centuries that have passed since their 
 ancestors devastated the once fair province and left it to decay. 
 'l'hc\- are the miserable remnant of conquerors who knew not 
 how to colonise, and their indolence is due not so much to 
 mere habit as to their physical degeneration. 
 
 The people of the Wanni were doubtless in a more flourish- 
 ing condition before the invasion of the European, when they 
 had their chieftains, the vassals of the Tamil rajahs, who held 
 court at Jaffna. Their impoverishment probably began when 
 the Portuguese took Jaffna and relentlessly exacted tribute from 
 them by force of arms. The Dutch followed with further 
 devastation in their train, but still failed in the task of subjuga- 
 tion. In these continued struggles irrigation works were 
 neglected, agriculture was abandoned, a general decay set m, 
 and jungle crept over the land. As time went on the wild and 
 dangerous denizens of the forest increased enormously at the 
 expense of man, who retreated to any place that promised 
 security, till at length, when the British took possession, the 
 first efforts in the direction of amelioration took the form of 
 the destruction of the elephants and leopards. 
 
 But it must not be supposed that there is no prospect of 
 improvement in the condition of the poor villager in this un- 
 fruitful part of the country. His lot is a difficult problem to 
 the Government, but is nevertheless its constant care. It is as 
 necessary to provide means as to inculcate the lessons of self- 
 help, and both are being done. The Hon. Mr. J. P. Lewis, 
 who was in charge of the Northern Province for a considerable 
 time, says: " \Vith all their faults the Vanni people are an 
 easy people to deal with, and one cannot help liking them. 
 They are hospitable and not disobliging. Some of their ideas
 
 THE BOOK OF CRVLOX 6oi 
 
 are very primiti\i'. ( i()\ trnmcnt, as represented by the Assis- Northern 
 
 tant Agent, is all-powerlul, and they go with their complaints ^'"'^ 
 
 to hini on e\ery conceivable subject." Na\uni>a 
 
 There is game of all kinds, larg ■ and small, throughout this dame 
 pro\ince, but not so al)undant as hall a century ago. It is, 
 however, a somewhat dirn( ult (ound y lor the sportsman, who 
 should consult Mr. St(Jic \ 's hook, to wliith prc\ious reference 
 has been made. lUephants in small numbers inhabit all parts. 
 I-)eer, pig, bears, and leopards are not easily bagged, owing 
 to the widespread density of the forests and jungk'. The 
 natix'cs shoot large game t.> a great extent at night from 
 ambushes in the \icinit\' ol water holes, an excellent means of 
 ridding thenisth cs of bi'ars i)\- whom thev are liable to be 
 attacked, and of leopards who destrox their cattle; but un- 
 fortunately the slaughter is extended to other game, with the 
 result that it is fast disappearing. The birds that are plentiful 
 include ])igeons, hawks, partridge, c|uail, igret, honibill, teal, 
 flamingoe, and |)ealowl. Crocodiles are large and \er\' 
 numerous in the tanks and lagoons, often wandering far from 
 the watt'r in search of food, and sometimes satisfving th ir 
 hunger with human Hesh. 
 
 Such is the (~ountr\- which we pass through for a hundred 
 miles between fialgamuw;i and Paranlhan. 
 
 MaxkI'I-AM (140m. 21C.J. Mankulam is in the \erv centre .Mankulam 
 of the Northern Pro\ince. It is the neaicst ])()int of the rail- 
 way to Mullaittivu, the seat of administration for the district, 
 which is thiity miles to the east. 'Jher? is x'crv good sport of 
 all kinds to be obtained from Mankulam, and it is the most 
 con\enient spot for the sportsman, there being lour lest-houses 
 within se\ (. n mil's and a regular l)ull()ck-coach st-rxici- with 
 MullaittixLi. The district is, however, \cv\ sparscK' inhabited 
 bv man. The l;ind is fertile and admirabK' adapted for the 
 culti\'ation of tobaceo. Mankulam station affords an instance 
 of trade following the railwa\, cart-loads of dried iish being 
 brought dailv from Mullaittix u on the east coast and desjiati lied 
 b\' rail to Iced the coolies ol the lea eslales in the mountain 
 districts. 
 
 I'ak'Wmiw (i();,m. he.). This station is piincijially usi'd for i'i>ranihan 
 th ■ (lespatcli ol timber. .Satin wood, foi- w lii( h the district is 
 lamons, is the chid height. There is no local accommodation, 
 and the station is li\e miles from the \illage whose name 
 it beai's. 
 
 l'j.i:i-ir\\ I I'ass (iix/m. 41c.). Tlureis a natural curiosit\ mcphunt 
 as to the origin of the name l-llephant I'ass, and the expl.ina- '*"'"* 
 tions gi\cn are plausible enough. Jaffna is a penin>ula joined 
 2 S
 
 6o2 tup: book of ckvlox 
 
 Northern Line to tile iii;iiii l;i lid 1)\ ;i lout,'' causeway, which at one time was a 
 i:ifpii!int Pass sliallow lord. IJy this lord herds of wild elephants were in the 
 habit of \isitin<^ Jaffna durins.;;- July and Aui^ust, the ripening 
 season of the palmyra fruit. Palmyra palms abound here, and 
 the elephant is particularlx fond of the fruit, which grows in 
 luxuriant clusters, each ol which is a good cooly load. If a 
 sulliciency of fruit had not fallen from the mature trees the 
 elej^hants would pull down the younger plants for the sake of 
 their tender leaves. This is the theory adopted by Tennent, 
 but it is equally reasonable to attribute the name to the use 
 made of this ford by the natives in bringing elephants from 
 the mainland to the fort as tribute to the Portuguese and Dutch, 
 who shipped them to Indian markets. 
 
 There is no railway station at Elephant Pass, but the train 
 stops for passengers. There is a quaint and picturesque old 
 rest-house at the edge of the lagoon, facing the sea on one side 
 and the lagoon on the other. It was once a Dutch fort, but 
 now serves the purpose of accommodating seekers after health 
 and recreation, and it is generally considered to be the most 
 comfortable rest-house in Ceylon. Duck-shooting and fishing 
 can be indulged in to any extent, and the salubrity of the place 
 is beyond question. 
 
 Pai.lai (i~6m. 54c.). — In approaching Pallai we become 
 aware that the whole character of the countrv and its in- 
 habitants iia\'e suddenly changed. Orderly cultivation takes 
 the place of jungle and forest, and a large, healthy and in- 
 dustrious population succeeds to the indolent and degenerate 
 peasantry who have aroused our pity during our journey 
 through their poverty-stricken districts. Pallai has a popula- 
 tion of five thousand, ten Roman Catholic churches, and one 
 of the Church Missionary Society ; curiously the latter institu- 
 tion has seven schools to three of the Roman Catholics. The 
 cocoanut is again seen flourishing here, and the large extent of 
 its cultivation is evidenced in the railway freight of coprah, 
 240 tons being despatched to Colombo alone during the month 
 of my visit. Potterv is also amongst the manufactures. 
 
 KoDiKA^FAM (iS^m. 77c.). — This station serves the important 
 town of Point Pedro, ten miles distant and the northernmost 
 port in Ce}lon. There is a daily coach service between the 
 two places. 
 
 Point Pedro is almost the extreme point of Ceylon. It 
 cannot boast of a harbour ; but the coral reef which guards the 
 shore affords shelter and a safe anchorage. The little town is 
 neat and trim. We notice at once that care is bestowed on 
 the upkeep of roads, bungalows, and gardens, betokening the 
 presence of an industrious population, ft derives its import- 
 
 Pullai 
 
 Kodikamam
 
 ni. THE REST-HOUSE JAFFNA. 
 
 712. DUTCH HOUSES IN MAIN STREET. JAFFNA.
 
 713. AMBALAM AT POINT PEDRO. 
 
 714. JAFFNA STATION.
 
 THE BOOK OF CI-LVLON 605 
 
 ance from the circumstance that tlie tuw n of Jaffna, on the Northern Line 
 
 western side of the pcninsuhi, can ne\er be approached b\ 
 
 ships within some miles, owini; to llu- way in which the water 
 
 shoals towards the coast; while in the south-west monsoon 
 
 ships of eij^ht or ten feet draft cannot come near enouyh to 
 
 receixe and discharo;e cari^o at this port. At such a time Point 
 
 I'edro and Kangesanturai, althoui^h o|nn roadsteads, are in- 
 
 \alual)le anchorages. 
 
 One of the most cuiious features of Point Pedro is its 
 aDihiiluDi , or resling-i)hu\- for travellers, which is built on both 
 sides of the road, o\ er which a massi\e archway is carried, 
 'iliis place ser\ es the same purpose as those which ha\e been 
 described in Section II., dealing with the Kaiulxan country, 
 but is unicjue in its architecture. 
 
 CJi.WAKACiiciiiCKi (icjoni. 41c.). — As we approach this tow 11 ciiuvakach- 
 thc surprising^ neatness of garden culture attracts our attention. 
 The villages arc numerous, and disclose a closely-packed popu- 
 lation, and the roads cNcry where are in |ierfect condition. 
 Large gro\es of the palmyra palm take the place of the cocoa- 
 nut which nourishes further south. Tons of eg'gs arc amongst 
 the articles of food constantly despatched to Colombo, the 
 railway having opened up the distant markets to the industrious 
 Tamils, with the effect of raising prices locally, but at the same 
 time contributing- considerably to the wealth of the poultry 
 farnicr. The .Xincricans have chosen Jaffna as a field for 
 missionary effort, and two of their churches are in this village, 
 the population of which is 3,500. 
 
 N.'W.ATKi'i.i (195m. 71c.). — Xavatkuli possesses similar Navatkuii 
 characteristics to those of the preceding station, from which 
 it is but li\e miles distant. 
 
 JxriWA (200m. 24c.). Jaffna, the capital of the Northern J"«'"a 
 Pro\ince and the seat of its administration, is an extensixe and 
 well ordered town of about 35,000 inhabitants. Its climate is 
 warm, equable, and dry. 'i'he Dutch, who adoj^ted the penin- 
 sula as one ol ihcir chief settlements, regardi'd it as particularlv 
 healtlu', an opinion which is endorsed b\' its pi'csent rulers. 
 It is esi)eci;ill\- benelicial in the cure ol lung diseases, and 
 should, now that it has become accessible b\ rail, pro\ e a useful 
 sanatorium foi' those who need open-air treatment. .\t present 
 it possesses too little accommodation for the \isitor, there being 
 onl\ one hostehw the resl-liouse and llial is in a warm situa- 
 tion, i)ut it is spacious and conilOrtable, and sullices loi" shoil 
 \isils. 
 
 Agriculture is the chi>l occupation of the inhabitants. 'ihe 
 palmyra palm, described at some length on jiage 275, is at
 
 r)o6 
 
 Tin-: HOOK ov cI'LYlon 
 
 Northern 
 Line 
 
 J'dliiiym 
 cultivation 
 
 Tobacco 
 
 oiifc the most conspicuous and ihc most bciutilul feature of 
 llie landscape. 'Jhe traveller will especially admire those forests 
 of this p.'ilm which have increased at such different periods that 
 the crowns of broad fan-like leaves rise in tiers from the fore- 
 ground, young- ones of ten feet, receding in deep belts of thirty, 
 fifty, and seventy feet high, backed by the mature forest reach- 
 ing one hundred or more. 
 
 'J'oddy is extracted from the palmyra much in the same 
 mannci- as from tlie cocoanut palm (see page 141), but instead 
 of being distilled is boiled down into a syrup, which, upon 
 cooling, crystallises into a kind of sugar, known locally as 
 jctffiicry. There are other forms of food extracted from the 
 palm\ ra, too numerous to be described here. The wood, unlike 
 that of the cocoanut, is very hard and durable, and is much 
 used for building purposes. The leaves, too, have numberless 
 uses, many of which will be evident to the traveller, for they 
 provide all the fences of the garden and compounds, the roofs 
 of all the native dwellings, the mats upon which the native 
 sleeps, and the baskets in which he carries water for irrigating 
 his lields. 
 
 Tobacco, although it does not supply the cultivator directly 
 with all the necessaries of life as the palmyra does, is next in 
 importance, and economically is the most valuable of all the 
 products of Jaffna, there being upwards of ten thousand acres 
 in cultivation, yielding about seven million pounds per annum. 
 The quality is coarse, but strong and full flavoured. It is not 
 such as to find favour with Europeans, but is thoroughly 
 grateful to the taste of the natives of both Ce}ion and India. 
 Most of it is exported to the mainland. Attempts have 
 frequently been made to grow leaf of more delicate aroma, and 
 with some success, but it docs not suit the local market, and 
 therefore finds little favour with the Tamil grower, who has not 
 the spirit of enterprise or the ambition necessary to successfully 
 compete with the purveyors of the white man's cigar. The 
 Jaffna weed is pre-eminently the natives' fancy, and is likely to 
 retain its hold when the large expanse of uncultivated land of 
 the Northern Province, through which we have passed on our 
 way to Jaffna, has been reclaimed for growing tobacco for the 
 Western markets. It is certain that the Jaffna Tamil must 
 sooner or later extend his boundaries, for everv inch of the 
 peninsula is under cultivation, and the population is already too 
 dense. With the new railway facilities he will infallibly spread 
 southward, and as a born agriculturist he will obtain from the 
 soil whatever of profit it will yield. Nevertheless the question 
 of extending the tobacc-o fields is not a simple one, since the 
 ciuantity of coarse and pungent tobacco grown for the local and 
 Indian market already suffices, and the fine and delicate quali-
 
 715. PALMYRAS. 
 
 ne. TOBACCO
 
 717. ENTRANCE TO THE DUTCH FORT AT JAFFNA. 
 
 718. THE WELL IN A TOBACCO FIELD.
 
 THK BOOK OF CILVLOX 609 
 
 tics required in the more distant markets demand patient and Northern 
 careful experiment. In this, ho\ve\"er, the Ciovernment will '-'"'^ 
 lend its scientific aid throui^di the agency of the department of J^'*"" 
 botany and agriculture. Irrigation, in whiih the native culti- 
 vator cannot easily take the initiative, except in the hill country, 
 has perhaps more than anything else restrained the Jaffncse. 
 On the peninsula it is an easy matter, because an unlimited 
 supply of water is obtainable from never-failing wells. 
 
 It has been asserted b\ sc\eral writers that these wells {'■"S'»'<o«» 
 
 - . . from wells 
 
 mamtam a uniform level at all seasons owing to percolation 
 from the sea, but this theory has been combated by Mr. C. \'. 
 Bellamy, who states that the geological formation of the 
 greater part of the peninsula is of such a character " that rain 
 water received at the surface descends into and occupies not 
 only occasional crevices and caverns but the entire space of all 
 the small interstices of the lower parts of the stratum. To 
 this is due the fact that in spite of the comparatively small 
 annual rainfall and of the frequency of long droughts, Jaffna, 
 so far as lies within the limestone area, may be safely declared 
 never to be in actual want of water. 
 
 " A distinctive feature of all limestone formations is their 
 cavernous nature, and large caves, when occurring at lower 
 levels, form reservoirs into which water has percolated through 
 the surface rock, and where large bodies of water must ac- 
 cumulate. \\'ells sunk into the limestone arc seldom known 
 to fail, and though it has been so often asserted that the water 
 found therein is really sea water deprived of its saline properties 
 through filtration, the fallacy of such an assertion is proved by 
 two instances occurring on the northern coast where a perennial 
 stream of fresh water gushes forth on the sea shore. One of 
 these is to be found at about half a mile to the west of Point 
 Pedro, but is merely a small spring bubbling up through the 
 rocks on the beach, and to be seen only when the tide is low. 
 That it is not sea water, returning from a cavern filled by the 
 flood tide, may ])v concluded from its being fresh and not salt. 
 
 "The other, and particularly to the native mind, far more 
 important spring is found at Keerimalai, two miles west of 
 Kangesanturai, known generally as the Holy Springs. A con- 
 siderable volume of water issues here close to the sea, and has 
 been looked upon by Hindoos from time immemorial as possess- 
 ing miraculous healing powers. 
 
 " It is still a place of pilgrimage, ' a spot more hol\' than 
 all other sacred places in the world,' to which many hundreds 
 of Hindoos from both Ceylon and India resort at certain times 
 of the year, and many are the traditions recounting the 
 miraculous cures it has effected, but wluther there is any \ irtue 
 whatever in the spring, or whether mere superstition has given
 
 610 iiii': j;o(;k ()i- ci:\L(>.N 
 
 NorUicrn il iioloiiit v, il is impossible to say. The story of tlu princess 
 
 Line wlio C'xcliaiig'ed her equine face for one radiant beyond compare, 
 
 .liiifna (Icliohifiil as it may be, is rather too much for modern readers 
 
 to f)elic\c. Apart, lioucxcr, from its supposed powers, it is 
 
 at least remarkable that this spring- has flowed continuously 
 
 from prehistoric times unabated, unaffected alike by droui^hts 
 
 or rains, a silent witness to the truth, with which the good folk 
 
 of Jaffna may console themselves that the water they drink, 
 
 however hard and unpalatable it may be, is not sea water but 
 
 fresh, charged not with the saltness of the sea but with the 
 
 saline and calcareous properties of the rock in which it 
 
 abounds. " 
 
 ini^afion of 'Yhc irrigation of the tobacco fields, as well as that of the 
 
 the tobacco .,*. . ^ . ,:, , , , 
 
 fields extensive fruit and Hower gardens which everywhere abound, 
 
 is primitive and peculiar. Water is obtained exclusively from 
 the wells, and it is raised after sunset by labourers in the 
 following manner : — The well sweep, a horizontal lever in the 
 form of a log of wood about fifteen feet long, is so attached to 
 a high post that it will act like the see-saw beloved of village 
 children in Europe ; a woven basket of palmyra leaves is at- 
 tached to the end of the lever over the well. A couple of coolies 
 then play see-saw by walking to and fro on the log, making the 
 basket descend and return again full of water by this useful 
 kind of sentry-go. Thousands of coolies draw water during 
 the night, and others distribute it over the fields and gardens. 
 Sometimes one coolie is sufficient for the lever. Another 
 labourer, generally a woman, stands near and directs the basket 
 in its ascent, and empties it into the necessary channel by which 
 it is conducted to the plants (see plates 718, 719, and 720). 
 The well sweep is usually shaded by trees to shield the labourers 
 at work upon it from the direct rays of the sun. An example 
 of this will be noticed in plate 719. In the same picture will be 
 noticed a curious little thatched building called a kiidil, which 
 serves as a rack or manger for the small cattle that work on 
 the fields ; fodder is placed within the railed square, and the 
 beasts in feeding are thus protected from the sun. The kudil 
 is seen in every field. 
 
 V\'c are amazed no less at the orderly and neat cultivation 
 than at its variety. Every kind of " curry-stuff " seems to 
 grow in Jaffna, which also produces the best fruits of the island. 
 A large export trade is done in them, which is paid for by the 
 importation of rice. Dry grains are easily grown ; but rice, 
 which requires much water, is unsuited to the soil and climate, 
 and is therefore not much cultivated on the peninsula. 
 
 The fields are fenced in by palings formed of the middle 
 ribs of palmyra leaves, or by such plants as aloes and cactus, 
 which effectually keep out intruders. In no other part of
 
 719. WELL SWEEP AND KUDIL. 
 
 720. THE METHOD OF IRRIGATING THE TOBACCO FIELDS.
 
 DUTCH CHURCH IN JAFFNA FORT. 
 
 722. DUTCH FORT AT JAFFNA.
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVLOX 613 
 
 Ceylon will the \isitor sec such fine crops of hrinjiils, chilics, Ndrthcrn 
 ging'er, gourds, melons, yams, sweet potatoes, and arrowroot. '•'"'-" 
 
 There is no town in Ceylon which still bears on its features ••"""'' 
 the impress of the Dutch occupation so completely as does 
 Jaffna. This is doubtless owing- to the architecture of its most 
 prominent buildings — the I'ort and the bungalows. The Fort Tiu Fori 
 is built of coral, and shows no sign of decay at the present dav. 
 Some idea of the masonry can be gathered from our little 
 pictures. Within its enclosure are several line buildings : a 
 massive church in the form of a (ireek cross, the Queen's 
 House, o(-c-upied by tiie Ciovernor of the colony upon official 
 visits, (io\-ernment ofliees and police (juailers. There are now Thcold 
 very few Dutch Fresbyteiians resident in Jaffna, and in con- ^■^]'^^lch 
 sequence the church has become disused and its furniture 
 removed. The size of the chmcli and the large number of 
 tombs of Dutch oOicials testilx to the importance of Jaffna in 
 the Dutch period. In a rec iit ai'ticle referring to this church 
 the Hon. Mr. J. I'. Lewis sa\s: 
 
 "That it is in such a good state of i:)reser\ation is due to 
 the substantial and massive (Miaracter of the building" qualities 
 which are alwa\s found in the work of the Dutch. The walls 
 are from four to fiAC feet thick, ])uilt of rubble and (-oral stone, 
 of which the fort also is constructed, and having a covering- of 
 cement. The floor is paved with the rectangular stones some- 
 thing under tw«> feet scjuare, which the Dutch seen-i to ha\-e 
 used for this ])urpose in all their larg -r buildings. The jjillars, 
 arches, and p( dinients of the doorways are in the thiii xellow 
 bricks that the Dutih also appear to have imported. 
 
 "The date over the main entrance is I'joh, but an older 
 building- probablv ot^cnipied this site, as the church (-ontaiiis 
 tombstones of, 'uilcr (din, i()()(), 1672, i<)7j;, and i'h):;, l(>t into 
 the floor, and no doubt /)? situ. 
 
 "The Portuguese church, according to the plan ol the fort 
 in Ralda?us's book, stood neai- the opposit;- corner of the fort 
 green, so that the Dutch would seem to haxe built a church on 
 a different site, and this church was either rebuilt or a new 
 church built in i70(). I should be inclin d to think the former. 
 
 "The present church possesses the bell of its Portuguese 
 predecessor, beaiing the legend \.s. nos mii.ac.kks ni-: j.\i".\N.\- 
 I'A'iAo, 'our l.ach of Mii-aclcs of Iafri-ia|)atani, " and the date 
 i()4S. The liejl was until r.centK in the bellrv , but has been re- 
 mo\cd into the \-csti'\- for better preservation." 
 
 i'lale ~ 2 ^^ depicts the organ galler\', which contains a 
 (|naint ])anel carved in liii^li I'cliel representing King I)a\i(l, 
 apparentb in advaiKcd vcars, having lost his hair, yet retain- 
 ing the niagic touch with which he soothed the troubled mind 
 of his i»redecessor with strains from his iavouiite instrumi'nt.
 
 6i4 THF" BOOK OF CKVLOX 
 
 Northern I lorc he is sccii playing the accompaniment to his own songs, 
 '-'"•-' his eyes resting upon the book of psalms in Circek which is 
 
 Jaffna lying on an eighteenth century reading desk ! 
 
 Our illustration (Plate ~2^) depicts the " Commanderer's " 
 pew, which is at the aiii^le ol the chancel and south transept. 
 TIk- pew and the stalls are of \arious Ceylon woods, the 
 mouldings of ihe stalls being of ebony. 
 
 A more picturesque view of this fine old Dutch church, 
 which every visitor to Jaffna should sec, is given on page 23. 
 Other remains of Duti'h architecture in Jaffna worthy of the 
 MainShai xisitor's attention are the buildings in Main Street (see 
 plate '/12), where the gables and verandahs will especiallv claim 
 notice. In this street is a house, now owned and occupied by 
 Dutch a Tamil member of the bar, which contains some elaborately 
 
 totisis carved doors of massive character with finely engraved brass 
 
 plates and hinges, bearing witness, in the sumptuous appoint- 
 ments of the Dutch houses, to the contrast between the earlier 
 colonisation and that of the present day, when the modern 
 houses contain scarcely any suggestion of the home country, 
 and are obviously regarded by their occupants as a temporary 
 residence and not as a permanent home, a difference perhaps 
 attributable to the steamship, which has brought the East and 
 West, in time, so near together. 
 Portuguese There are also many remains of the earlier Portuguese 
 
 occupation worthy the attention of the visitor, notably the fine 
 ruined church and monastery illustrated by plates 13, 14 and 
 13 in the first part of this work. These ruins will be found 
 on the Kayts road near the eighth mik'stone from Jaffna. The 
 drive is a most pleasant one, and as comfortable carriages can 
 be readily hired at Jaffna it should not be missed. Another 
 Portuguese ruin of an equally interesting character will be 
 found at Achchaveli, eleven miles from Jaffna on the Point 
 Pedro road. This is an excellent drive to take for the inspec- 
 tion of the tobacco fields. 
 
 The visitor can make himself verv comfortable at Jaftna, 
 especially from December to February, when the temperature 
 is moderate. The rest-house is not all that could be desired in 
 such a large town, but it faces an open park-like space with 
 fine avenues. The town generally gives a favourable im- 
 pression. Its bungalows are spacious, well-built, and clean ; 
 its streets are wide and well-tended, while its gardens and 
 commons are so well kept as to suggest that there are no idle 
 folk amongst the inhabitants. In fact, everyone is very busy 
 at Jaffna, and we find that about as much work is done 
 thoroughly there for one rupee as is half done in Colombo for 
 double the amount. 
 
 We have referred to the race that inhabits Jaffna as one of
 
 23 KINO DAViO AND THE ORGAN GALLERV. 
 
 Wg^^^^^^^^M 
 
 
 'i"i '"^ 
 
 1 
 
 
 w 
 
 -■■; ; ■■■\.-y"'"^"'^ 
 
 ' 
 
 DUTCH DOORWAY WITH ENGRAVED MOUNTINGS 
 IN BRASS.
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 n 
 
 
 ^^^H 
 
 Jj. 
 
 
 IfE 
 
 
 t=^ 
 
 
 t^ 
 
 ^■1
 
 THE HOOK OF CKVLOX 617 
 
 agriculturists ; but we also find industrious artisans workini,^ in Northern Line 
 the carpentry, jewellery, and other trades. The goldsmiths Jaf«na 
 are ingenious, and have formed very distinct styles and patterns 
 that are peculiar to them. Their bangles, brooches, chains, 
 and rings are beautiful in design and workmanship, while their 
 tools are of the most primitive order and few in number. 
 
 There are many other things of considerable interest in 
 Jaffna which we must pass over here, but with which the visitor 
 will make himself acquainted. 
 
 Chuxaka.m (206m. 14c.). — Chunakam is the half-way station Chunakam 
 between the town of Jaffna and the terminus of the railway on 
 the northern shore. There is no accommodation for the visitor, 
 who will merely pass through on his trip to Kangesanturai. 
 Between Jaffna and this place may be seen in its greatest 
 \'ariety and profusion every species of agriculture with which 
 the Tamil has enriched the peninsula. 
 
 Kan(;i:saxtir.\i (211m. i8c.). — Kangesanturai is the rilii)ia KanKesan- 
 
 ^ ■' . , turai 
 
 Tiiidc of the Ceylon Government Railway, and were it not that 
 in this \olume a few lines may be desirable about Trincomali 
 and the pearl fishery J would fain take \'irgirs epithet to 
 myself, " Tibi serviat L'ltima Thule," for I have exhausted my 
 vocabulary, although I trust I ha\e not exhausted the patience 
 of the reader. The visitor should take this journey to 
 the extreme north for the sake of the interesting scenes that 
 present themselves to the last. XX. Kangesanturai he will find 
 comfortable quarters, invigorating sea breeze, and an excellent 
 fish tiffin at the rest-house, which is situated close to the 
 remains of a Portuguese fort depicted in plate 727. There is 
 a tradition current in Jaffna that the Dutch, disapproving of 
 the site of this fort for the chief defences of the north, deter- 
 mined to transfer it to Jaffna, and as bullock carts were scarce 
 in those days the\" formed a line of cooly slaves for twelve 
 miles, passing the blocks of coral by hand to the site where 
 we see the magnificent fort which they erected at the latter 
 place. The chief features of the quiet little port to-day are the 
 lighthouse and the remains of the old fort that has been 
 lashed by the surf for four centuries. 
 
 As we dwell upon the striking scenes that the little peninsula 
 has afforded us, and contrast them in our minds with the wild 
 and uncultivated lands which we have seen further south, we 
 cannot resist the conclusion that the possession of economic 
 qualities is, after all, to be preferred to scenery.
 
 TRINCOMALl. 
 
 The route 
 viA MdtaU 
 
 Habaiane 
 
 Trincomaii Xo European resident or visitor in Ceylon can be said to 
 have availed himself of all its attractions who has not passed 
 through the wilds of the northern parts, explored its most 
 interesting antiquities, shared in the sport which the almost 
 uninhabited regions afford, and, last but not least, visited its 
 most beautiful port, Trincomaii. 
 
 It will be seen from our map that Trincomaii may be reached 
 •yid Vavuniya, Anuradhapura, or Matale. The Matale route, 
 though the longest, affords the best road. A mail coach runs 
 from Matale to Trincomaii daily, particulars of which can be 
 found by use of the index. The journey is also quite prac- 
 ticable for motor-cars or bicycles. We have already made the 
 acquaintance of this road as far as Habarane, whither we now 
 return. 
 
 Habarane is really in the centre of some excellent hunting 
 grounds, and although it is the fashion to say that game in 
 this locality is getting scarce, there is plenty of evidence to the 
 contrary. Here is a vast wilderness of two or three thousand 
 square miles, consisting of beautiful and valuable forest trees, 
 interspersed with strips of open plain and vast artificial lakes, 
 the remnants of bygone ages, which not even the destructive 
 tooth of time has been able to obliterate. 
 
 Let us visit one of these secluded spots not too frequently 
 disturbed by the white man, and we shall be surprised at the 
 countless number of living creatures that haunt the vicinity of 
 a stretch of water in remote solitudes. Here a telescope may 
 be of greater interest than a gun. Concealed beneath the shade 
 of some beautiful tree, one may watch the habits of animals in 
 their natural freedom. This occupation has a wonderful charm 
 on a calm evening, with a tropical sunset glowing upon the 
 dense jungles, whence all manner of creatures are seen to 
 emerge and steal gently down the open glades to refresh them- 
 selves by draughts of water. A distant sound like the blast of 
 a horn reaches our ears, and we scan the thickets of the opposite 
 shore : a majestic elephant is trumpeting to his herd ; they obey
 
 
 
 ^m 
 
 ' ^^'iiMid 
 
 "*^^|f ;V# 
 
 '"ff^lrf'" --"' •"v-''-"''""--''-' •• A;- . ';'»<■'••. 
 
 
 ^^^^^^^!^T1 
 
 
 .- '■ 
 
 730. HABARANE REST-HOUSE. 
 
 731. VILLAGE SCENE NEAR DAMBULLA.
 
 THE ROOK OF CE^•LOX 621 
 
 his summons to the evening bath, and some six or eight are Habarane 
 seen to disport themselves in the shallow waters, which they 'Ji'tnui- 
 hurl over their bodies in great showers. Noises betoken the JIIm"/"^'"^ 
 approach of greater numbers as the sun gradually disappears 
 below the horizon. The shrill bark of deer, the grunt of the 
 boar, and the screams of a myriad birds mingle as the con- 
 gregation increases. The reptiles and birds are not the least 
 interesting; crocodiles, kabaragoyas, and iguanas are present 
 in great numbers ; but the endless variety of the larger birds is 
 the most astounding feature of these lonely shores. There are 
 cranes nearly six feet high ; pelicans like little heaps of snow 
 gently propelling themselves over the smooth surface of the 
 water ; the pretty little water-pheasants with their glittering 
 heads standing upon the lotus leaves; the adjutant stalking 
 after the reptiles; ducks innumerable and of linest plumage; 
 teal of the most delicious species ; while the gaudiest peacocks 
 strut upon the plain. Here is a paradise for the naturalist as 
 well as the sportsman. We must, howewr, pursue our jour- 
 ney to Trincomali. 
 
 Every fifteen miles brings us to a rest-house, and from Travelling 
 every rest-house we can make a sporting excursion into the ■'"" ' "^ 
 jungle if that is our will. The tra\eller who is merely journey- 
 ing to Trincomali will need very little commissariat. If he is 
 cycling (a method of locomotion pleasant enough on this road) 
 he will need to carry only a change of tlannels, and will find 
 most of the rest-houses provisioned with such light refresh- 
 ments as he may need ; or he can travel through by coaches, 
 of which there is a regular service carrying his Majesty's 
 mails. 
 
 I'rom Habarane to Alutoya forms the next stage. The Aiutoya 
 road lure is very beautiful, owing to the undulations and tin- 
 character of the forest, which is rich in Hne timber trees. Occa- 
 sionally we come across a straight of a mile or two in length, 
 and in the distance we see herds of wild hogs cross from one 
 side to the other ; here and there grey jackals put in an appear- 
 ance, while monkeys and large squirrels are surprisingly 
 numerous. Troops of wanderoos abound all the way, and at 
 frequent intervals numbers of them leap from the branches of 
 trees 011 one side of the road to those on the otlur. 
 
 Another stage brings us to the Io\i'l\' lake of Kanthalai. 
 Many a sportsman has felt that he would not mind spending 
 the balance of his life here. .After several hours of travelling 
 through the dense forest, it is with a shock of delight that the 
 nioiiotonN is broken l)\ the sudden aj^pearanee ol a beautilul 
 lake stretching awav for miles to dreamv ranges ol ilistant 
 hills, whose beauties are reflected in its calm waters. Life and 
 light combine to greet us as we emerge from the dense jungle.
 
 r,2 2 THE ]]()()K ()[■' CJiVLON 
 
 Kanthaiai Flashes of every tint appear as the gay birds are startled b\l 
 our approach. We stand enchanted by the scene. All is stilil 
 save the voices of the creatures that dwell on these beautiful 
 inland shores. Spotted deer arc browsing; peacocks, airing 
 their gaudy plumage, strut o'er the plain ; the majestic elephant 
 is enjoying his evening bath in the shallows; herds of buffaloes 
 leave the shade of the woods to slake their thirst; grim 
 crocodiles are basking on the shore or watching their prey ; 
 troops of chattering monkeys are skylarking in the trees, 
 while the stately cranes and pink flamingoes stalk the shal 
 lows. wSuch are the scenes that surround the tank or lake' 
 of Kanthaiai. 
 
 Ancient And now let us, for a moment, go back a couple of thousand 
 
 svstctji of .. ^ <-> 1 
 
 iyrigation ycars for the origin and purpose of this gigantic artificial 
 stonework embankment on which we stand. The history of 
 Ceylon contains authentic records of a system of irrigation 
 which, for engineering ingenuity and the rapidity with which 
 gigantic works were executed, could not be surpassed by an^ 
 conceivable means at the present day. We know that sucJ 
 works were constructed, because the evidence remains in the 
 imperishable barriers of solid masonry that we find stretched 
 across the valleys to secure the heavy rainfall of certain 
 seasons ; but so wonderful are they, and so intricate yet oprfect 
 the system of conveying the precious water to the .i^^u, ruai 
 we cannot realise the conditions which placed such magnificent- 
 works within the sphere of the possible. 
 
 The forest now spreads over a network of these ruined lakes 
 and tanks, tens of which are of giant proportions, while the 
 smaller ones number thousands. Embankments eight feet high 
 and three hundred feet wide were carried for many miles at a 
 stretch. The dam of one of these is eleven miles long, and is 
 faced with steps built of twelve-feet lengths of solid granite. 
 That on w^hich we are standing was constructed by King Maha 
 Sen about a.d. 275. The same monarch is said to have made 
 no less than sixteen of the large tanks, including Minneria, 
 which, like Kanthaiai, is about twenty miles in circumference. 
 When it is borne in mind that, in addition to the formation of 
 the necessary embankments and sluices in this wholesale 
 fashion, hundreds of canals for the distribution of the water 
 formed part of the scheme, the stupendous nature of such an 
 undertaking is manifest. Wonderful as are the remains of 
 ancient monuments, palaces, and temples in these now deserted 
 provinces, nothing is more impressive than the great works of 
 irrigation, or attracts one more to the study and consideration 
 of early Sinhalese history. 
 
 How unchanging are the meteorological conditions through- 
 out long ages of time is evidenced by these remains. The
 
 732. ON THE BANKS OF KANTHALAI. 
 
 733. A PRETTY BAY.
 
 THE HOOK OF CICVLOX 625 
 
 northern provinces oi Ceylon must have re('ei\cd their rainfall Kanthuiai 
 thousands of years ago, as now, in deluge form during two or 
 three months of the year; and it was necessary to secure and 
 treasure a portion of it for use in the protracted periods of 
 drought. It is curious in such a small countrv that the rain 
 should descend with almost equal distribution throughout the 
 year in some provinces and unequal in others. In the north- 
 central part of Ceylon, through which we arc now journcving, 
 one-sixth of the rain for the whole year has been known to 
 fall in a single day. The storms of this district have been sionns 
 u^ell described by Major Forbes, who, in writing of his journey 
 to Trincomali in 1.S33, says : " F'ive miles beyond Dambool we 
 crossed the bed of the Meerisagona-oya, at a ford which for 
 nine months of the year is only a space covered with sand ; 
 but the banks of this stream, above and below, were about 
 eight feet in height, the perpt-iuiicular sides being supported 
 by matted roots of trees. 
 
 "Although the Meerisagona-oya was now and for months 
 had been without a drop of water in its channel, I haxv known 
 it impassable e\cn to horses for eight days together : deten- 
 tions on this road from the swelling of the streams usually 
 occur previous to the setting-in of the north-east monsoon in 
 November. The rains generally commence towards the end 
 of September with heavy showers; after a week of this un- 
 settled weather, rain falls in torrents for half the day, the 
 remainder being bright sunshine. Previous to the fall of these 
 quotidian deluges, the sky in the quarter from whence they 
 approach becomes gradually darkened upwards from the hori- 
 zon, and appears of an inky hue, so dense that the distant hills 
 look less solid than the advancing curtain of clouds. The 
 plains seem lost in dull shadows, and the mountains are lightc-d 
 with a lurid gleam of dusky red that escapes from the open 
 part of the heavens, l-^xcry second this clear space, with its 
 pale, cold blue sky, is \ isibl} contracted by dark swollen masses 
 of vapour, which arc gradually subduing the sickly lights that 
 linger on the highest pinnacles. ;\t hrst, during these symp- 
 toms, there is an oppressive calm, under which everything in 
 nature seems to droop : the leaves hang listless on the boughs ; 
 the beasts arc in tlu' forest ; the birds seek shelter in the c<)\c'rt ; 
 numerous ilorks of white cranes following each other in lines, 
 or forming themselves in angles, alone attract the eye as they 
 seek new ground and prepare for the approaching storm. 
 Before a breath of air is felt, tiiu' whirlwinds are si'cn beneath 
 the bushes, twirling round a few light, withered leaves, or 
 trundling them along the footpath. These fairy hurricanes arc 
 succeeded bv a rushing sound among the trees o\erhead, ac- 
 companied by the rustling and falling of decayed leaves; then
 
 626 
 
 Tin-: HOOK OF CI-:VLON 
 
 Kanthalai 
 
 The yest- 
 huuse 
 
 Trincomali 
 
 The harbour 
 
 a {^-cnflc and re fresh in^;- air suddenly gives place to cold breezes, 
 gusts, and squalls, until heavy drops of rain crowd into 
 descending sheets of water, transforming steep paths into 
 cataracts, and broad ruads into beds of rivers. Before the 
 murky curtain that is closing over the sky flickers a cold, 
 misty veil, and a dull vapour rolls in advance along the ground ; 
 these appearances arise from the raindrops splashing on the 
 dusty ground, or jostling and splintering as they descend from 
 the teeming darkness. On a particular occasion, being sur- 
 prised by one of these avalanches of rain, I returned to my 
 house at Matale, but, with my horse, had to swim across a 
 stream that I had passed only two hours before, when the 
 water was not three inches deep." 
 
 The storms being restricted to one season, we have no 
 difficulty in arranging to make our trips in certain fine weather. 
 But we arc digressing at great length, and must now proceed 
 on our journey from the spot where we halted at the first 
 glimpse of Kanthalai. 
 
 The great causeway extends for upwards of a mile, and is 
 bordered with beautiful trees. It is faced with enormous 
 blocks of granite regularly laid, but covered with turf to the 
 water's edge. Near the Trincomali end a capacious rest-house 
 for the accommodation of large parties of sportsmen and 
 travellers stands on the brink of the lake. The fields, which 
 are irrigated from the lake, are unrivalled as snipe grounds. 
 The bags that sportsmen sometimes claim are so great that I 
 hesitate to pen the number lest I should tempt the incredulous 
 reader to offer criticism in terms more common than polite. 
 
 We have now only one more stage to Trincomali — twenty- 
 six miles of the same undulated forest road. 
 
 There are some f^^■e or six magnificent harbours in the 
 world, and Trincomali is one of them. Situated on the north- 
 east of the island, it faces the Bay of Bengal and overlooks the 
 whole eastern coast of India. The entrance, which faces 
 south-east, is guarded by two projecting headlands, approach- 
 ing to within about seven hundred yards of each other. When 
 it is borne in mind that the monsoons blow from the north-east 
 and south-west the importance of this feature is obvious. The 
 rocky headlands have a beautiful effect upon the landscape, 
 which is made up of a placid expanse of water dotted with 
 wooded islets that seem to float on its surface, rich tropical 
 forest covering the acclivities that border its coasts, and a 
 distant background of lofty mountains. 
 
 The form of the harbour is irregular, and the numerous 
 indents of its coast line supply many a charming feature. 
 Some of the islands are romantic in appearance as well as 
 association, and notably amongst them Sober Island, once the
 
 736. BANYAN TREE, SHOWING THE TRUNK. 
 
 737. THE SAME TREE, SHOWING SOIVIE OF THE 
 SUPPORTING STEMS.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 629 
 
 favourite resort of the ollicers ol the East Indies Squadron, Trincomaii 
 who built a ward-room, billiard-room, and £,'un-room upon it. 
 
 Trincomaii was once regarded as a \ ery important na\al ^-'^ 
 station, and as such it was strongly tortilied ; but as a com- ^utt"""" 
 mercial port it has not developed, for the simple reason that 
 the cinnamon trade, so attractive to the early colonists, could 
 only be carried on at Colombo ; and later, when the English 
 gained possession of the interior, the country in the west was 
 found to be the more cultivated, while the north-east was 
 almost deserted by man and covered with dense forest ; more- 
 over, the long droughts to which the northern provinces were 
 subject rendered their cultivation apparently hopeless. Sub- 
 sequent to this another circumstance greatly inlluenced the 
 development of Colombo as the commercial port : the Suez 
 Canal brought the shipping for the colonies in the direction of 
 Ceylon, and as a consequence the western harbour suddcnlv 
 assumed immense importance by reason of its convenience as 
 a junction and port of call. So Trincomaii by accident of its 
 position has missed that service to commerce which, if it had 
 been on the south-west coast, would have been incalculable. 
 Our principal view of the harbour is given on page 7. 
 
 Amongst the beautiful trees to be found in Trincomaii a A mannifi- 
 grand specimen of the Ficus IntUca stands pre-eminent. It is ^,"1^""^"'* 
 diflicult for anyone who has not seen a banyan tree to realise 
 that all the stems and branches visible in our two little photo- 
 graphs arc parts of one tree.* It will be seen that some of 
 these stems rival even the main trunk in size, notably the one 
 on the extreme left of our first picture. In our second picture 
 only a portion of the complete tree is visible, but enough is 
 given to show how the shoots have reached the ground and 
 grown into large supporting stems, enveloping the original 
 trunk and producing the appearance of a miniature forest. 
 The circumference of the tree, which thus appears as a whole 
 grove, extends to se\'eral hundred feet, and its o'erspreading 
 l:)ranches would easily shelter a thousand people. 
 
 There is a very picturesque carriage road winding along the 
 northern and eastern portions of the harbour, and many are 
 its pretty nooks and corners. 
 
 Our photograph on page 627 gives a very good idea ol the 
 character of this pretty road, and we particularly notice here 
 how land-locked the harbour is. We are looking towards the 
 mouth, in the direction of the full-rigged shij) which is dis- 
 charging coal at the wharf. On the left is the extensive hill 
 known as I""ort Ostenburg, ( ommanding the entrance of the 
 harbour, but now dismantled. Military barracks, now deserted, 
 are just visible amongst the trees. 
 
 * A full description of the Ficus Indica is*given on pages 5S and Ci.
 
 630 I Ml-; IU)()K OF CKYLON 
 
 Trincomali 'I'o the north of the harbour there is a horse-shoe shaped 
 
 The hay |)av, guarded on one side b}' the rocky headland known as 
 
 Dutch Point, and on the other by I'"ort Frederick, which is a 
 peninsula with narrow isthmus, but presenting a wide and bold 
 front of precipitous rocks about a mile out to sea. The town 
 of Trincomali is at the bend of the horseshoe. It has a fine 
 " Maidan " of some three hundred acres to the sea front. This 
 forms the recreation ground of the residents. Facing the bay 
 are a few good residences, including the rest-house and a 
 magnificent residence, once the quarters of the ofTiccr in charge 
 of the naval stores. 
 
 ihitchPoini On Dutch Point is the Residency, the official quarters of 
 
 the y\ssistant Government Agent, who acts as both civil and 
 judicial administrator. The grounds of this house are very 
 romantic, and stretch around the headland, where the little bays 
 and crevices afford many pretty pictures. 
 
 SaamiRoik fhe headland is a place of great antiquarian interest, and 
 
 many graceful legends are interwoven with its history. It is 
 a mighty crag rising from deep water in a sheer precipice to 
 the height of four hundred feet. Such an unusual feature of 
 the landscape was certain to attract the reverence of the 
 imaginative Hindus, and although the Sinhalese may have 
 regarded this as a holy place for centuries before the time of 
 Buddha, when they themselves were Brahmans, and may have 
 built shrines there, it is certain that the Malabars who invaded 
 Ceylon in early times appropriated it, and built a stupendous 
 shrine to Siva, which, until it w^as demolished by the Portuguese 
 in 1622, w-as known as " The Temple of a Thousand Columns," 
 and was the resort of pilgrims from all parts of India. There 
 is now^ left only the bare site of the magnificent temple ; and as 
 the crowds of Hindus flock thither to worship at the Saami 
 Rock, which is all the ruthless cruelty of the Portuguese left 
 them, one cannot help feeling some pity for them in having 
 their most revered shrine demolished without the slightest 
 reason that could have appealed to them. What their feelings 
 must have been towards the Portuguese makes one shudder to 
 think. No wonder that the Portuguese proved useless con- 
 querors ! We know that the Tamil Hindus meted out similar 
 treatment to the Buddhist Sinhalese in olden times ; but we 
 should have expected the methods of the Portuguese, professing 
 Christianity, to have been less brutal in the seventeenth century. 
 We shall see that the site of this sacrilege is still held in the 
 profoundest veneration. 
 
 For many years after the British took possession of the 
 Fort, the Hindus, who had been debarred from approaching 
 the sacred spot by the Portuguese and the Dutch, were allowed 
 the privilege of making a pilgrimage to it once a year, and,
 
 U'^;^,, rwilNlT. 
 
 /d'J. I Mb uAy f-KuM THb RhblDhNCY.
 
 740. SAAMl ROCK.
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVr.OX 
 
 63: 
 
 althoLig-h the site inereased in military iniporlanre, this favour Trinccmuii 
 of the authorities was extended, instead of withdrawn as it 
 would have been by any other nation. The processions take 
 place at sunset, and there is no interference with them. 
 
 Having taken up our position on the only jutting crag that The 
 gives us an unobstructed view of the Saami Rock from ocean ^sa""TkoIk 
 to summit, we await the arrival of the worshippers, who appear 
 gradually, both men and women, each bearing offerings of 
 fruit, milk, palm blossoms, grain, and llowcrs. They take up 
 positions whence they can gaze upon the ceremonies to be 
 performed by the officiating priest, who, with several atten- 
 dants, descends to the utmost ledge, a giddy height, where 
 naught but the fathomless ocean stretches beneath his feet. 
 Here he pours out libations, chants a weird litany, and taking 
 each gift casts it into the mighty deep. He then kindles a fire, 
 which he thrice raises above his head in a brazen censer, while 
 all the worshippers raise their arms heavenward. The burnt 
 offerings are reduced to ashes, which are then smeared upon 
 the foreheads of the worshippers, and the ceremony is over. 
 The situation as seen in our photograph is strikingly im- 
 pressive, and amongst the numberless religious ceremonies 
 of the East none is more profoundly solemn. The pouring of 
 libations and the sacrifice of burnt offerings on a spot where 
 the handiwork of the Creator is visible in its most wonderful 
 aspects on all sides, is worthy of a more enlightened people, 
 and commands our sympathy. 
 
 We cannot leave the Saami Roik without reference to an Tragedy of 
 event of pathetic interest, commemorated by the monument van'Kade 
 which surmounts its loftiest crag. As will be observed in our 
 picture, it is a solitary pillar, probably one of the thousand 
 columns of the demolished temple, and on it is engraved : 
 
 Tot Gedaghtems 
 
 Van Francina Van Reede 
 
 IuF° Van Mydregt Desen 
 
 A° . 1687 : 24 .Ai'Rii. 
 
 QPGEREGT 
 
 I-'rancina \ an Reede was a Dutch maiden of hii^ii birth, 
 the daughter of a gentleman holding a responsible position in 
 the Dutch service. She was betrothed to an officer in the 
 army, stationed at 'I'rincomali, to whom she was desperately 
 attached; but he proved faithless, and embarked on a vessel 
 bound for luirope. The fair one watched the movements of 
 the ship from the Saami Rock. To get clear of the coast the 
 vessel had to tack and pass parallel to the precipice on which 
 the love-sick maiden stood. For a few moments she gazed 
 2 p
 
 634 'i'lll'- I^OOK OF CRVLON 
 
 Triiudiiiiiii (listi'.'u'tcdly towards her false lover, when suddenly the swift 
 vessi'l turned from her towards a foreig^n land, and she plunged 
 from the dizzy height. 
 
 S{>oii There is a peculiar charm in the circumstance that between 
 
 this beautiful place, Trincomali, and any other lies a stret( h 
 of wild and unpeopled land, where almost every kind of wild 
 animal that exists in the island can be found. Elephants, 
 leopards, bears, boars, buffaloes, deer, monkeys, crocodiles, 
 are all within a day's march, and many within an hour's ride. 
 
 Hot s/)jj»/rs The neighbourhood of Trincomali presents yet another 
 
 of K (my a feature which is within our province to mention, and is note- 
 worthy in connection with the theory held by some that the 
 deep harbour is on the site of a submerged volcano. At 
 Kanya, near a range of wooded hills eight miles north of the 
 harbour, there are some hot wells, seven in number, differing 
 in degrees of temperature from ioo° to iio°. These springs 
 have naturally given rise to various legends amongst the 
 natives, who regard them with superstitious reverence, and 
 account for their origin in the following fable. To delay the 
 King Rawana, and thus prevent the success of one of his 
 undertakings, Vishnu appeared in the form of an old man, 
 and falsely informed the king that Kanya (the virgin-mother 
 of Rawana) had died. On hearing this, Rawana determined to 
 remain and perform the usual solemnities for deceased relatives 
 whenever he could find water for the requisite ablutions. 
 \'ishnu having ascertained his wishes, disappeared at the spot, 
 and caused the hot springs to burst forth. From the solemni- 
 ties then performed in honour of Kanya, the springs have ever 
 since retained her name.* 
 
 Cottiar It will be seen from our map that to the south of Trincomali 
 
 harbour there is a very large bay almost as land-locked as the 
 harbour itself. In the days of sailing ships, and especially in 
 early times when Ceylon was the great emporium of the 
 Eastern world, Cottiar Bay, as this great neighbour of Trin- 
 comali is called, was a place of immense importance, compared 
 with which Trincomali itself was insignificant, the reason 
 doubtless being that it afforded sufficient depth of water for the 
 vessels of those days, while ingress and egress under sail were 
 much easier than through the narrower entrance of the adjoin- 
 ing harbour. 
 
 At the present day Cottiar interests the traveller as the 
 scene of the capture of Robert Knox, to whose virtues and 
 literary service to posterity we have referred on pages 381 
 and 382. 
 
 We sail across the lovely bay, and in a couple of hours 
 find ourselves anchored on the very spot where the good ship 
 * From an account given by Major Forbes, 78th Highlanders.
 
 742. AVENUE ON SOBER ISLAND. 
 
 743. SHORE ON SOBER ISLAND.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 (>2>7 
 
 Anne lost her ill-fated crew two and a half centuries ago. W'c Trincomaii 
 are near the mouth of the Mahawelli-ganga, up which we sail 
 for about half a mile. Here we proceed ashore, and our 
 interest is arrested by a strange monument of white stone 
 erected against the gnarled stem of a magnificent old tree. 
 We approach and read the inscription : — ■ 
 
 Tins IS THE White Man's Tree 
 
 Under Which Robert Knox 
 
 WAS Captured 
 
 A.D. 1659. 
 
 ^^91 
 
 mrm-^ 
 
 ^^ 
 
 MHB 
 
 
 wmti- 
 
 '■^ »: 
 
 nl^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^HllHUf^^ll 
 
 ^^S i^-* 
 
 
 5-' J ^-*'ta,^u'^^ V 
 
 w-^m 
 
 mp^m^m^*'^- •^^''^^"<*^^^^ 
 
 fV 1 
 
 Wm ^ ^^'^^^Hi 
 
 ^^^^ 
 
 Jniaj^^^^^^l 
 
 W^ 
 
 IIhk^''^^ ' ^"'Jfl^^^Vi 
 
 1 
 
 ^^^^^^HK^M^ ^^^^^^^^^^^ 
 
 
 ■^K'r'-'i.^ifl 
 
 ^;. -r— ^ 
 
 744. THE WHITE MANS TREE.
 
 745. PORTION OF ONE OF THE GALLERIES OF RAMESERAM. 
 
 RAMESERAM. 
 
 Rameseram At the extreme north of the Gulf of Manaar is the very 
 narrow strait known as Paumben Passage. Here Ceylon is 
 almost joined to India by a curious line of rocks and islands. 
 It will be seen from our map that the mainland of the continent 
 sends forth a promontory which almost reaches the sacred 
 island of Rameseram. From this a ridge of rocks, known as 
 
 Adam's Budge Adam's Bridge, extends to Manaar, an island of sand-drifts 
 cut off from the coast of Ceylon only by fordable shallows. 
 Whether Ceylon was ever actually joined to India either by 
 nature or artifice is a matter of conjecture ; but the possibility 
 of either is easy to demonstrate. The name Adam's Bridge is 
 insignificant, and is due to a legend of the Arabs, who were 
 traders on this coast in very early times. They believed that 
 Adam lived in Ceylon after his banishment from Paradise; that 
 he journeyed thence to Mecca and brought Eve back with him. 
 It was natural that he should have gone to and fro by this 
 passage, as there were no ships in those days. So they called 
 it Adam's Bridge. The legends of the Brahmans arc not quite
 
 camesfram 
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 639 
 
 so simple. By them Rama is said to have employed the monkev He 
 gods to form this footway in order that he might invade Cevloii 
 with an army. There were quarrels and jealousies about it, 
 sometimes assuming serious proportions, as when Nala 
 stretched out his left hand to receive the immense rocks brought 
 by Hanuman. This indignity so roused the anger of the latter 
 that he raised a mountain to hurl at Nala when Rama inter- 
 posed and appeased him by explaining that, although gifts 
 might not be received with the left hand, it was the custom of 
 masons so to receive materials for building. 
 
 We are not disinclined to accept the theory that Paumben raumhen 
 Passage was once blocked by an artificial causeway, over which '''*"'*s' 
 millions of pilgrims came to visit the sai-red Ramcscram. The 
 passage only hfty years ago was so shallow that no ships could 
 pass through, but was about that time deepened suHicicntlv for 
 ^■essels of ten to twelve feet draft. 
 
 Although Ramcscram is not part of Ceylon, we lind it easily Means 0/ accea 
 accessible, since the steamers of the Ceylon Steamship Com- 
 pany pass through the Paumben Passage weekly, and obligingly 
 anchor to allow passengers an opportunity of visiting the island. 
 We have said that it is a sacred island, and we shall now jm'o- 
 ceed to verify this statement by exploration. 
 
 If wc except a long spit of land which runs out to Adam's rheiihvui 
 Bridge, the extent of the island is about seven miles by three. 
 I'pon setting out from Paumben, a broad road, paved with 
 smooth slabs of granite and shaded by beautiful trees, stretches 
 eastward through the island, ending in the entrance of a re- 
 markable temple, one of tlie most ancient and revered in all 
 India. On cither side, at frequent intervals throughout the 
 whole distance of seven miles, there are substantially built 
 ambalams or rest-houses for pilgrims, tine baths witli granite 
 steps descending into them from all sides, and temples beauti- 
 fully built of hewn stone. l^\cr\ tree as well as building is 
 dedicated to the uses of religion. Even the soil is so sacred 
 that no plough may break it; and no animal wild or tame may 
 I)e killed upon it. 'i'hc; magnifu-ence of this superb highway is, 
 ho\\e\cr, in decay ; l)ut why it should be so we are unable to 
 ascertain. The paving-stones are displaced, and most of the 
 temples are in ruins, while the ambalams show signs of better 
 days, not long past. The condition of the whole indicates that 
 about a ccnturv ago all these were in beautiful ordi'r. .\t the 
 l^rcscnt (!a\, liowcxcr, the gr.at temple of Rama apjiears to be 
 the on!)- building upon which attention is la\ished. 
 
 No idea of this structure ("ui be gained from the exterior, ihtumfit 
 the only part visible being the lofty pagcKia which forms the 
 entrance. The rest of the temple is enclosed within hii^ii walls, 
 extendiiiij' round rm area of cii-ht hundri'd bv six hundri-d feet.
 
 640 
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 Rameseram 'I'hc inlcrioi' consists of a large number of galleries of grand 
 The umt>ic extent and dimensions, some of them running through the 
 whole length of the temple, and others to right and left for 
 hundreds of feet. All of them are ornamented with rows of 
 massive pillars carved with statues of gods and departed heroes. 
 Our photograph of one small portion of a gallery is fairly repre- 
 sentative of the whole, which extends for many thousands of 
 feet, and surrounds the sancfutn sanctorum, an oblong rect- 
 angular space into which the unbeliever may not penetrate. 
 No entreaties will avail to obtain admittance into this sanctified 
 place. The nautch girls who are dancing and chanting within 
 may come and perform to us outside, but we may not approach 
 the shrines. 
 
 We are astonished at the Hindu grandeur of the temple, 
 and we are naturally curious about the apparent neglect of the 
 large number of smaller temples on the island. This, we are 
 told, is due to the falling off in the number of pilgrims, and 
 consequently in contributions, since the British prohibition of 
 human sacrifice. A century ago, when enormous cars, sur- 
 mounted by images of the gods, were dragged along the paved 
 ways by hundreds of frantic devotees, many in their frenzy 
 hurled themselves beneath the massive wheels. It is also 
 related to us that when the great car of Juggernaut was 
 periodically brought from Madura across the Paumben cause- 
 way the sacrifices were enormous, and the number of pilgrims 
 attracted at such times was a great source of income to the 
 temples. We should like to think that the decay which we 
 have observed was due to enlightenment and education rather 
 than British law and might ; but be that as it may, we are quite 
 gratified to see the temples in ruins if the circumstance indicates 
 the discontinuance of such barbarous customs in however small 
 degree. 
 Manaar Manaar is scarcely worth a visit. It represents a dreary 
 
 aspect in comparison with the rest of Ceylon, notwithstanding 
 that in earlier times it was regarded as a place of considerable 
 commercial importance from its proximity to India and the 
 yield of its pearl fisheries. It is now famous only for its baobab 
 trees (cidaiisonia digitata), which must have been imported 
 many centuries ago from the coast of Africa, but by whom 
 and for what purpose is a mystery. The peculiarity of this 
 monstrous tree is in its shapeless massive stem, Avhose circum- 
 ference is ecjual to the height of the tree.
 
 746. MOUTH OF THE IVIODRAGAM RIVER AT MARICHCHUKK; 
 
 THE PEARL FISHERY. 
 
 W'l: have seen that Ceylon is a place with a i^loiious past; AiitiquUvo/ih* 
 
 its once mai^nificent cities arc now but a mass of crunibkd ^"' ■'*' "-* 
 
 and half-buried ruins; its native dynasty has passed away for 
 
 ever ; one institution alone has descended to us unchanijed by 
 
 the vicissitudes of three thousand years — the Pearl I'islury. 
 
 Few of the world's wonders can lay claim to greater antiquity, 
 
 and few afford more aspects of interest to the naturalist. 
 
 " La plus belle perle n'est done, en definitive, que le brilliant 
 sarcophage d'lin ver," writes an eminent French scientist. Hut 
 it is not with the origin of the oriental pearl or the generosity 
 of the oyster in providing the parasitic worm with such an 
 exquisite sarcophagus that we shall concern ourselves here ; 
 our purpose being confined to a description of the fishery. A i g>.t>ui h>iun 
 Ceylon pearl lishery is the most picturesque game of chance in 
 the world. It exhibits the true element of the lottery engrafte<l 
 on a huge picnic which lasts for a month or more and is at- 
 tended bv forty-live thousand people. Such is the fascination 
 of the game that diHiculties of access and lacU of accommoda- 
 tion arc of no account. The scene is the (lulf of Manaar, on 
 the north-west coast, and the base of operation is a sm.ill b.iy
 
 747. A FLEET OF PEARLING BOATS 
 
 748. A STREET SCENE IN MARICHCHUKKADDI.
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 
 
 643 
 
 at the mouth of the Modragam Ri\er, which may be seen in Pearl Fishery 
 
 plate 746. The pearl oyster banks or "paars," as they are H'c ianki 
 
 locally termed, are a series of shallows with a hard bottom, 
 
 spread over a larg^e area of the gulf extending seawards for 
 
 upwards of twenty miles, and stretching from Adam's Bridge 
 
 in a southward direction for fifty miles ; their depth varies from 
 
 three to ten fathoms, the shallower ones being, of course, those 
 
 nearest to the shore. So prolific are the oysters that on one 
 
 bank only, known as the Periya Paar, scientific experts in the 
 
 year 1902 estimated the number of the young oysters at a 
 
 hundred thousand millions, but so insecure was their lodging 
 
 that, upon inspection a few months later, it was found that all 
 
 had been swept away, cither by ocean currents or the storms of 
 
 the monsoons. 
 
 Marichchukkaddi, which, it must be conceded, is rather a Marichchuk. 
 mouthful for articulation, is a town which appears and dis- *"''''' 
 appears with the fishery. .\t ordinary times it is devoid of 
 habitations, and not without picturesque qualities of its own. 
 On the one side it commands a diminuti\e bay, and on the 
 other a distinctly beautiful landscape, consisting of grassy 
 plains besprinkled with the blooms of wild llowers, with here 
 and there groups of tamarind trees. A background of forest 
 lends charm to the scene, and a series of cliffs on the right bank 
 of the river adds a feature which in Ceylon is rare. But in 
 fishery time the solitude and the beauty of Marichchukkaddi 
 give place to opposite scenes. The grassy plain is turned into 
 a sandy waste upon which forty thousand people are bustling 
 to and fro amidst their temporary habitations. The llowers 
 and the bees have given place to the dead oyster and the blow- 
 fly. But in the sudden transformation there are many com- 
 pensations for the havoc created in the landscape, which, after 
 all, would in the ordinarv course lose its fairest complexion in 
 the dry season, which is always the chosen time for fisheries, 
 the absence of rain on shore coinciding with smooth seas. 
 
 An inspection of the pearl banks precedes the announce- Sampling the 
 ment of a fishery. .About November there is a general survey ^""" 
 to decide the question of to be or not to be in the ensuing 
 March and April. Upon this examination an estimate is made 
 of the number of mature oysters likely to be available. .\ short 
 time before the proclamation another inspection takes place, 
 at which sampk' hauls are made and ollicially valued, in order 
 that the prospects of the coming event may be estimated. The 
 various bags of samples thus colletted are left under guard in 
 the " kottu " or enclosure erected for their reception for seven 
 days or so, by which time the maggots depositid by the blow- 
 flies have cleared away the putrified bodies of the fish and left 
 little more than the shells and the pearls behind ; still there is
 
 644 
 
 THE BOOK OF CEYLON 
 
 l»ciirl Pishcry 
 
 Amaziitf; 
 tabidity oj events 
 tolloii'iiig the 
 [proclamation 
 
 A rrival of the 
 motley throng 
 
 cnou^-li of null remaining- to need a whole series of careful 
 washings, in addition to the removal of shells before the pearls 
 can be found. After all the light refuse that can be floated 
 away by much water and more patience has been got rid of, 
 the pearls are found contained in the remaining dirt, which is 
 dried and examined repeatedly until only the smallest of pearls 
 are likely to have escaped notice ; but so diflficult is it to find 
 them that, even at this stage, the refuse has a market value. 
 
 The word now goes forth that a pearl fishery will take place 
 on a given date. With lightning rapidity the news spreads 
 throughout India, the Persian Gulf, Burma, and Malaya. 
 Marichchukkaddi is on no beaten track ; no road leads thither, 
 and no landing facilities welcome the traveller by sea ; yet 
 within a month of the proclamation a town appears peopled by 
 its forty thousand inhabitants of a dozen nationalities, and 
 equipped with the machinery for orderly government and the 
 conduct of a daily market at which every pig is bought in a 
 poke amid conditions of great excitement and anxious anticipa- 
 tion. The streets are familiarly named, and to facilitate 
 business the town is divided into various quarters for the 
 accommodation of officials, pearl merchants, traders, divers, 
 and so forth. Then there are boatmen's houses, police 
 quarters, banks, hospitals and medical stations, court houses, 
 rest-houses for European and other visitors, post and telegraph 
 offices. Pretentious bungalows are erected in anticipation of 
 a possible visit from the Governor of the Colony, as also for 
 the Government Agent, and, on the more recent occasions, for 
 the agent of the lessees, the Ceylon Company of Pearl Fishers. 
 
 In small boat-loads of twenty to forty the motley throng 
 arrives from the long series of coast towns that border the 
 Indian Ocean. The variety of craft is only equalled by that of 
 their passengers, for the various ports have their specialities 
 both in build and rig. Some two hundred boats that do the 
 port-to-port carrying trade are for the time converted into 
 pearlers, and arrive manned by thousands of divers, amongst 
 whom are Tamils, Moors, and Arabs. Many passengers come 
 laden with cocoanut leaves with which to build the modest little 
 hut that will be their shelter during the period of the fishery; 
 others come provided with bank-notes to the extent of thou- 
 sands of pounds, and are prepared to purchase of the Govern- 
 ment a month's lease of some building in the merchants' 
 quarter ; for this town of cadjan huts has not been erected for 
 love, but for the rent which is obtained by competition. A 
 house ten feet square, consisting only of four walls and a roof 
 made of palm leaves and jungle sticks, without floor or furni- 
 ture, is a luxury that the pearl merchant is glad to get for a 
 month for ;^50. The building of plaited palm leaves costs
 
 OF SIR STANLEY BOIS AT THE PEARL 
 FISHERY OF 1907. 
 
 750. NATIVES OBTAINING THEIR DAYS SUFP^t OF DRiNKlNU ^\A^i.R.
 
 •% H^-k fc ^;P'%i"**^'fe 
 
 751. THE HOMEWARD RACE OF THE PEARLING FLEET. 
 
 752. DIVING FOR PEARLS.
 
 THE BOOK OF CKVLON 647 
 
 nothing but the trouble of making. The rents of such shanties Pcari ^i^he^y 
 
 form a considerable proportion of the revenue derived from the 
 
 fishery. 
 
 Near the tow 11 two huge water tanks arc constructed, one 
 for the purposes of ablution (Plate 755) and the other for a 
 drinking supply. At the latter the early morning s<-ene (I'latc 
 750), where the inhabitants bring their chatties for the day's 
 needs, is most picturesque. 
 
 The fleet of some three hundred boats assembles and draws riu jUd 
 up in line upon the shore as seen in plate 747. The atmospheric 
 conditions prevailing in March and April are most favourable 
 to the enterprise. During the night a gentle breeze from the 
 land fills the sails and wafts the fleet to its allotted station. 
 While the diver is seeking for pearls, the increasing power of 
 the sun's rays causes the warmed atmosphere to rise, where- 
 upon the winds return and considerately bring back the lleet 
 at the most convenient hour of the afternoon. 
 
 The boats are as various as the divers, possessing some Varitd typa 
 four or live distinct types : dhoncys, sailing lighters, luggers, "/ '""'/' 
 and canoes with outriggers, in some cases having three masts. 
 Each has its peculiarities in shape, rig, and tackle, according 
 to the fashions in vogue at the Indian or Ceylon port to which 
 it belongs. The fleet extends in a long line, every vessel being 
 moored to the beach. At midnight a terrific report from the The it an 
 signal gun, followed by the roll of tom-toms, awakens every 
 soul in the town, and ten thousand dark brown figures are at 
 once busy with tackle and sheet, shouting and hoisting, each 
 one eager to be first upon the paar, as each is keen on being the 
 first to return and get into the market with his share of oysters. 
 A quiet interval in the town follows the sailing of the licet. 
 The breeze is often light, and frequently when daylight dawns 
 the sails are yet in sight. The work of the diver is accom- The diver at 
 plished without much external aid. He descends feet foremost, 
 grasping a rope to which a stone is attached to expedite his 
 descent, remains under water from forty to ninety seconds, 
 during which time he fills his basket with oysters, then signals 
 to the mandu( k at tlie other end of the rope, who hauls him up 
 with his catch. .Some of the divers from the Malabar coast 
 simply plunge head foremost in the ordinary fashion, and upon 
 arriving at the bottom place one foot in a loop rope near 
 the stone, by which means they can rcin;iin at work so long as 
 their supply of air remains. A pretty sis^ht is the returning /;. '..■■--! 
 fleet in the afti-rnoon. At a sit;nal by gunfire sails are set, and 
 the three hundred iralt enter u|)on a race which is one of the 
 finest sporting events imaginable, and as exciting in its un- 
 certainty as the search for pearls that follows. The first crew 
 to arrive have the advantage of getting first into the market
 
 648 Till": lK)OK OF CEYLON 
 
 iViiri I'isher.v Willi the divcTs' sharc ol o}stci's, which obtain hi^h prices from 
 nicrchaiits who wish to obtain early samples of the catch. 
 
 The president of the fishery thoughtfully stations on the 
 beach, to receive the divers, a guard of honour composed of a 
 proportionate number of police, whose attire is limited to the 
 cap of authority worn upon their heads, an arrangement which 
 admits of their advance into the surf without damage to their 
 uniform. Their welcome to the returning fleet consists in 
 boarding each craft and proceeding without ceremony to search 
 for concealed pearls which the divers and manducks may have 
 extracted from gaping shells during the voyage. Pearls are 
 
 Artifucnfthe easy to conceal, and it is not to be supposed that the diver and 
 
 ^"" ' '"■' manduck are unpractised in the art of hiding any that they 
 
 fortuitously discover. Sometimes the police have found little 
 bags of them tied to the anchor or attached to a sail ; but there 
 may be even more secret hiding-places. It is dilTicult to remove 
 the possibility of theft even by stationing a detective on each 
 boat ; for bribery amongst Orientals is a fine art. No sooner 
 are the boats made fast upon the beach than the divers rush 
 ashore laden with the oysters in bags, and scramble over the 
 
 Thekoddu loose sand to the koddu, an extensive series of compartments 
 
 or sheds constructed of palm leaves and enclosed within a 
 palisade of jungle sticks. A separate compartment is assigned 
 to each boat's crew. Here the divers parcel the oysters into 
 three heaps as near as possible alike in size, for they have no 
 means of knowing which heap will be allotted to them as their 
 share by the official. This allotment having been made, after 
 a further examination of their persons by the searchers, the 
 divers are allowed to remove their share. Outside are crowds 
 of speculators anxious to buy the oysters in small numbers, and 
 rapid bargaining takes place ; the diver does not get far with 
 his property, but usually disposes of the whole lot in a very 
 short space of time ; for he needs some hours of rest after his 
 strenuous exertions. 
 
 Within the koddu the business of counting the oysters for 
 
 The auction the daily auction proceeds apace, and at sunset they are put up 
 to the highest bidder by the thousand, the buyer taking as many 
 thousands as he pleases at the price of his bid. In the morning 
 the buyers remove their lots to their own enclosures, where the 
 unsavoury though exciting business of extracting the pearls 
 is carried on. 
 
 The animation of the town is immense. Oysters are being 
 opened all over the place, and the lucky finders of pearls are 
 rushing off to the quarters of the merchants, who sit all day 
 (as seen in plate 754) ready to buy or sell, grading their pur- 
 chases in little sieves, weighing them with delicate little scales, 
 with seeds for weights. Here and there are groups of
 
 754. DEALERS IN PEARLS. 
 
 2g
 
 755 THE BATHING TANK. 
 
 ?56. BAGS OF PEARL OYSTERS READY FOR THE AUCTION.
 
 Till-: HOOK oi- ci:n i.(j\ 651 
 
 "fakers" and pearl-cutters enoai^r(^.(i in thrtading pearls by Pcari li»iicr> 
 means of the simplest of bow-drills. Many of the dealers are 
 capitalists whose transactions run into many thousands of 
 pounds; others are humble traders who make their way to 
 Marichchukkaddi, attracted by the i^rand chance of the lottery 
 in which they may lose their all or make much of their little. 
 
 After a period varying from three to six weeks the fishery 
 is brought to a close, the inhabitants of Marichihukkaddi dis- 
 perse, and the town itself dissohes e\en more rapidly than it 
 came into existence. 
 
 'Ihe pearl fishery of the year 1905 was the largest ever a ucord fishtry 
 known. The divers engaged numbered about li\e thousand, 
 with an equal number of manducks or attendants upon them. 
 The fleet of boats numbered three hundred. Eighty millions 
 of oysters were obtained, and sold for about ;£.J50,ooo, two- 
 thirds of which sum was added to the revenue of the Colony, 
 and the remaining third, according to the usual custom, was 
 awarded to the divers. This was, however, an exceptionally 
 abundant harvest, as may be surmised from the fact that the 
 sole right of pearl fishing has now been leased by the Govern- Lease o/tht 
 ment to the Ceylon Company of Pearl i-'ishirs at an annual ^^''"> 
 rental of ;^'20,666, whit h with the rciit^ ol plots in " Pear! 
 Town " ensures a total re\enue irom the lishery of ;£, 25,000 — 
 a fair sum if based on the average of past years. The ct)m- 
 pany, moreover, engages to spend ;£^,'joo,ooo upon the improve- 
 ment of the fishery during the period of the lease. 
 
 With this brief description of the pearl lishery I take k-ave 
 of the reader, who 1 trust will pul my description to the test 
 of personal experience by setting out at once for the beautiful 
 island.
 
 USEFUL INFORMATION lOR \l-^rK)Rs 
 TO CEYLON. 
 
 CURRENCY. 
 
 British sovereigns are legal tender at the rate of ^i for 15 rupees. 
 
 The silver coins in use in Ceylon are Indian rupees and the decimal 
 coinage of Ceylon consising of 50 cents (half rupee), 25 cents (tiuarter 
 rupee), and 10 cents (one tenth of the rupee). 
 
 The bronze coinage consists of five-cent, one-cent, half -cent, and 
 quarter-cent pieces. 
 
 BOAT HIRE IN THK HARHOUR OF COLOMBO. 
 
 For Steam Launches , Boats and Canoes. 
 
 Per Head. 
 From landing jetty to any vessel, or vice versd, or 
 from one vessel to another within the Break- 
 water 25 cents 
 
 For the return journey ... ... ... 25 cents 
 
 [In each case between 7 p.m. and 6 a.m., 40 cents.] 
 
 The above fares include one hour's detention for boats and canoes. 
 
 For every subsequent hour's detention 40 cents between 6 a.m. and 
 7 p.m., and !;o cents between 7 p.m. and 6 a.m., per boat (not passenger). 
 
 Two children under ten count as an adult; children under two go free. 
 
 Special agreement must be made for boats or canoes required for special 
 service. 
 
 For Baggage 
 
 Chairs, hand-bags, or straps of rugs (with owner) Free 
 
 ,, ,, ,, (without owner) 5 cents each 
 
 Small ])ackages (up to .53 in. by 10 in. by 18 in.) 10 to 15 cents 
 
 Large boxes or cases 25 cents 
 
 Disputes should be referred to the Jetty Sergeant, while gross im- 
 position or incivility can be reported to the Master Attendant (Harbour 
 Master), whose office is in the Custom House, and who in all matters 
 connected with the whart and the shipping acts as Tdliic Maeistrate.
 
 1 
 
 r,-4 'iiii'- I'.ooK ()!•■ (■i';\'i.()\ 
 
 GL'IDl'.S. 
 
 Licensed Guides wearing dark blue coats with green facings can be 
 engaged at the Cniides' Shelter near the landing jetty. The fee is 50 cents 
 for the first hour and 25 cents for each additional hour. 
 
 Rs. c. 
 
 Rs. c. 
 
 4 50 • 
 
 ..30 
 
 2 50 . 
 
 .. I so 
 
 50 . 
 
 .. 40 
 
 RATKS OF CARRIAGE HIRE IN COLOMBO. 
 
 ist Class 2nd Class 
 For carriages drawn by one horse : — 
 
 From 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. ... 
 
 Any six consecutive hours between 6 a.m. 
 and 7 p.m. ... 
 
 l'"or half-an-hour 
 
 For one hour ... ... ... ... ... i o ... o 75 
 
 For every subsequent hour or portion ... o 50 ... o 30 
 
 [The charges are for a wJiole carriage^ not for each passenger.] 
 Between 7 p.m. and 6 a.m. one-third more. 
 
 Beyond Municipal limits (outside the toll-bars) an agreement should 
 be made, otherwise the rate demanded is generally 75 cents per mile, 
 including return journey, but exclusive of tolls. 
 
 The usual fare for a carriage to Mount Lavinia and back or to Cotta 
 and back is Rs. 5, in addition to pa\'me"nt of toll. 
 
 If extortionate fares are demanded, as they often are, the driver should 
 be asked to produce the fare table, which he is bound to carry ; though no 
 one is likely, if well served, to object to an advance, by way of a fourboire, 
 on the strictly legal fare. 
 
 R.-\TEs FOR Rickshas 
 
 Not exceeding ten minutes 
 
 Fach half -hour 
 
 Each hour 
 For each subsequent half -hour 
 
 Between 7.30 p.m. and 6 a.m. one-third extra. 
 
 
 Extra 
 
 3y Day 
 
 By Xight 
 
 Rs. c." 
 
 Rs. c. 
 
 10 . 
 
 .. 5 
 
 25 . 
 
 .. 5 
 
 50 . 
 
 .. 10 
 
 10 . 
 
 ..05
 
 THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 655 
 
 THE COACH SER\'ICES. 
 
 The following list of coaches running between places where there i> 
 no railway service is intended for general information t«j the traveller; 
 but the times of departure should be verififi 1. . ritir-, a- they are subject 
 to change. 
 
 The West Coast 
 
 Colombo and N egombo : leave C. 7 a.m. and 2 p.m., arrive X. 10.30 
 a.m. and 5.30 p.m. ; leave X. 7 a.m. and 3.45 p.m., arrive C. 10.30 a.m. and 
 7.15 p.m. Fare, Ks. 3. 
 
 Negombo and Chilaw: leave X. 6 a.m. and 11.30 a.m., arrive C. 11 a.m. 
 and 4 p.m. ; leave C. 5 a.m. and 11 a.m., arrive X. 10 a.m. and 3.30 p.m. 
 Fare, Rs. 5. 
 
 Chilaw and PtittaJam : leave C. 4.10 p.m., arrive V . 030 p.m.; leave 
 P. 5 a.m., arrive iZ. 10.30 a.m. Fare, Rs. 7. 
 
 The Planting Districts 
 
 Avisawella-Ralnafura and Rahwana : leave A. 11 a.m., R. 3 p.m., 
 arrive Rak. 8.30 p.m. ; leave Rak. 5.20 a.m., R. 10.20 a.m., arrive A. 3.20 
 p.m. Fare, Rs. 17.50. 
 
 Polgaha-iDela- and Kegalla: leave P. 0.30 a.m. and 4.30 p.m., arrive K. 
 11.15 'im. and 6.15 p.m.; leave K. 6.45 a.m. and 1.45 p.m., arrive P. 
 8. 30 a.m. and 3.30 p.m. Fare, Rs. 2. 
 
 Gavifola and Pussellawa: leave G. 3 p.m., arrive P. 5 p.m.; leave P. 
 8 a.m., arrive G. 10 a.m. Fare, Rs. 3. 
 
 Ilalton and Norivood : leave H. 6 a.m. and 2.20 p.m., arrive X. 7.20 
 a.m. and 3.30 p.m. ; leave X. 9.35 a.m. and 6.30 p.m., arrive H. 10.40 a.m. 
 and 7.30 p.m. Fare, Rs. 2.50. 
 
 Norwood and Bagawanlalawa : leave X. 7.25 a.m. and 3.40 p.m., arrive 
 B. 8.45 a.m. and 5 p.m. ; leave H. 8 a.m. and 5 p.m., arrive X. 030 a.m. 
 and 6.30 p.m. Fare, Rs. 3.50. 
 
 Norwood and Maskeliya : leave X'. 7.25 a.m. and 3.40 p.m., arrive M. 
 8.30 a.m. and 4.45 p.m. ; leave M. 8.30 a.m. and 5.15 p.m., arrive X. 030 
 a.m. and 6.30 p.m. Fare, Rs. 2.50. 
 
 Talawakele and Agrapalana : leave T. 3 p.m., Lindula 4 p.m., arrive 
 A. 5.30 p.m. ; leave A. 7.30 a.m., L. 9 a.m., arrive T. 10 a.m. Fare, Rs. 5. 
 
 Handarawela, Badulla, Passara, and Lttniigala : leave Hand. 12 noon, 
 Bad. 3.30 p.m., P. 5.30 p.m., arrive L. 8.30 p.m. ; leave I,. 7 a.m., P. 9.45 
 a.m., Pad. i p.m., arrive Hand. 4.15 p.m. 
 
 The Southern Province 
 
 Matara and Tangalla: leave M. 10.30 a.m. and 1.30 p.m., arrive T. 
 2.30 p.m. and 5.30 p.m. ; leave T. 6 a.m. and 11.30 a.m., arrive M. 10 a.m. 
 and 3.30 p.m. Fare, Rs. 5. 
 
 Tangalla and Ifanibaniola: leave T. 3 p.m., arrive II. S p.m. ; leave II. 
 5.30 a.m., arrive T. 10.30 a.m. Fare, Rs. 7.50. 
 
 To the Fast Coast 
 
 Mdtale and Panibulla : leave M. 10 a.m., arrive D. 2.40 p.m. ; leave I). 
 10.30 a.m., arrive M. 3.30 p.m. Fare, Rs. (^. 
 
 Dambulla and Trincomalce : leave D. 2.50 p.m., arrive T. a.m. ; leave 
 T. 3 p.m., arrive D. 9.30 a.m. Fare, Rs. 15. 
 
 Lunugala and Batticaloa : leave L. 5 a.m., arrive B. 6 p.m.; leave B. 
 5.30 a.m., arrive L. 7.30 p.m. Fare, Rs. 25.
 
 656 llil-: 1>()()K OF CEYLON 
 
 CONSULS IN COLOMBO. 
 
 Amkru'a. Unitkd Statks of. — W. Morey, Consul, and !■".. L. Morey, Vice- 
 and Deputy-Consul, 2, Queen Street. 
 
 AusTRO-Hi'NGARV. — E. I'^nchelmayer, Consul, 3, Prince Street. 
 
 Belgium. — A. Redemann, Consul, Victoria ]3uildings, York Street. 
 
 Denmark. — A. J. Sawer, Consul, 2, Queen Street. 
 
 France. — I'",. Labussiere, K.L.H., Consular Agent, Chamber of Commerce 
 Buildings. 
 
 German Empire. — Ph. Freudenberg, Consul, 29, Chatham Street. 
 
 Italy. — E. Enchelmayer, Consul, 3, Prince Street. 
 
 Japan. — C. E. II. Symons, Consul, 4, Prince Street. 
 
 NpTiiERLANDS. — A. Schulze, Consul, 25, Upper Chatham Street. 
 
 NORW.'iY. — Sir Stanley Bois, Acting Consul, 11, Queen Street. 
 
 Persia. — M. I. Mohamed Alie, Vice-Consul, Dam Street. 
 
 Portugal. — C. S. V. Morrison, Acting Consul, 12, Queen Street. 
 
 Russia. — E. Labussiere, K.L.H. (French Consular Agent), Acting Vice- 
 Consul, Chamber of Commerce Buildings. 
 
 Siam. — T. S. Clark, Acting Consul, 14, Baillie Street. 
 
 Si'AiN. — C. S. V. Morrison, Acting Consul, 12, Queen Street. 
 
 Sweden. — Sir Stanley Bois, Acting Consul, 11, Queen Street. 
 
 Turkey. — Mohd. Macan Markar Effendi, Consul, 70, Old Moor Street. 
 
 POPULATION. 
 
 The population of Ceylon as enumerated on the night of March ist, 
 1901, including the immigrant estate population, the military (3,360), the 
 shipping (4,104), and Boer prisoners of war (4,913), was 3,576,990; the 
 different races being as follows : — 
 
 Europeans 9)5^3 
 
 Burghers and Eurasians 23,312 
 
 Sinhalese Low-country 1,461,233 
 Sinhalese Kandyan ... 873,584 
 Others 
 
 Tamils 
 
 952,237 
 
 Moors 
 
 224,719 
 
 Malays 
 
 11,207 
 
 Veddahs (aborigines) .. 
 
 13.215 
 
 7,900 

 
 INDEX 
 
 Abhayagiriya Dagaba, 565-567 
 Aborigines of Ceylon, 524 
 Adam's Bridge, 638 
 
 Peak, 452-461 
 
 Hotel, 449 
 
 Administration of Ceylon, 25 
 
 rural districts, 214, 
 
 Agra-ova, 463 
 Agrapatana, 462 
 Ahangama, 166 
 
 Alawwa, 226 
 
 Allagalla, 230-233 
 
 Aludeniya, 345 
 
 Alutgama, 150 
 
 Alutnuwara, 238, 413 
 
 Alutoya, 621 
 
 Aluwihare, 432, 435 
 
 Ambagamuvva, 448 
 
 Ambalam, near Teldeniya, 336 
 
 Ambalangoda, 155, 157 
 
 Ambanpola, 522 
 
 Ambastala Dagaba, 532 
 
 Ambawela, 482 
 
 Ambepussaj 226 
 
 Amherstia, 263 
 
 Angulana, 118 
 
 Anuradhapur.i, 522-579 
 
 Arachchis, 214 
 
 Architecture, Kandyan, 325-377 
 
 Areca palms, 1S6, 187 
 
 Arrack, 141, 142 
 
 Arts and crafts. Native, 315 
 
 Ar\'ans, 13, 529 
 
 Asgiriya, 335, 33S, 370, 378 
 
 397 
 
 Asoka, 531 
 Astrologers, 51 
 Astrolog)^ 51 
 Attangala Wihare, 217 
 Attractions of Ceylon, 26 
 Audience Hall, 312, 326 
 Avisawella, 190 
 
 B 
 
 Badulla, 489-403 
 Haillie Street, 45 
 Halpitiya, 154 
 Hambalapitiya, lu, 113 
 Hambaragala, 412, 413 
 Handaranaike, Sir S., 214 
 Handarawela, 4S6 
 Hank of Madras, 45 
 Hanyan tree, 58, 60 
 Barnes Place, 65 
 Barnsley, Corporal, 21)5 
 Barracks, Colombo, 52, 55 
 Basawak-Kulam, 570 
 Bazaars, 50, 51 > 5^2 
 Bentota, 109, 150-153, 363 
 Berendi Kovil, 190, 191 
 Beruwala, 14S, 149 
 Betel, 86-S9 
 Bible Rock, 234 
 Birds of Colombo, 66, 69-77 
 Bo-tree, Ancient, 542-544 
 Boat hire in harbour uf Colombo, 
 653
 
 6^8 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Hoimire, 413, 417 
 Horella, 47 
 
 Brazen Palace, 548-55° 
 Breakwater spray, 10, 32 
 British administration, 25 
 
 conquest, 22 
 
 policy, 25 
 
 Brookside, 512 
 
 Buddhism, 529, 531 
 
 Bungalows of Colombo, 65, 67, 69 
 
 Cacao, 264, 409 
 
 Camel Rock, 234 
 
 Camphor trees, 276 
 
 Canoes, Sinhalese, 34, 35, S3 
 
 Carriage hire, 654 
 
 Cathedral of Saint Thomas, 81 
 
 Santa Lucia, 81 
 
 Ceylon, First glimpse of, 29 
 Chamber of Commerce, 45, 48 
 Chapman, Bishop, 81 
 Chatham Street, 40, 41, 43, 91 
 Chavakachcheri, 605 
 Chekku, 223 
 Chunakam, 617 
 Chunam, 89 
 Cinnamon culture, 126-131 
 
 Gardens, Colombo, 47, 65 
 
 Citronella, 174 
 
 Climate, 9, 10, 13 
 
 Coach routes and fares, 655 
 
 Coco-de-mer, 268-269 
 
 Cocoanut cultivation, 218 
 
 , desiccated, 222 
 
 estate, 219 
 
 fibre, 221 
 
 grove, 224 
 
 husking, 225 
 
 oil mills, 222 
 
 planting, 219-222 
 
 , prolific trees, 224 
 
 seedlings, 220 
 
 , Uses of the, 21S 
 
 Cfjjr matting. Manufacture of, 90, 
 
 Colombo, The approach to, 30 
 
 , The Fort, 37 
 
 Commercial Company, Colombo, 58 
 
 C'onsuls in Colombo, 656 
 
 Cook & Son, Thos., 45 
 
 Cotta, 185 
 
 Cottiar, 634 
 
 Cotton, 113, 254, 255 
 
 Cricket, 52, 55 
 
 Crow Island, 82 
 
 Currency, 653 
 
 Customs, 34 
 
 duty, 37, 653 
 
 Dalada, Anuradhapura, 577 
 
 , Kandy, 300 
 
 , Polonnaruwa, 592 
 
 Dambula, 434-437 
 Davie, 292 
 Dawson, 237 
 Dawulugala, 242 
 Degaldoruwa, y^T,, 364, 37S 
 Dehiowita, 194 
 Dehiwala, 114, 116, 117 
 Dekauda Valle}^ 230, 233 
 Demons, 24T, 242 
 Devil dancers, 388 
 Devon Falls, 461, 481 
 Dewa Nilame, 382 
 Dewale, Definition of, 237 
 Dhobies, 56 
 Dicko3'a Bazaar, 453 
 
 Church, 453 
 
 Estate, 453 
 
 Dimbula, 462, 480, 4S1 
 Diyatalawa, 486 
 Dodanduwa, 157 
 
 Dodanwala, 245, 346, 350, 358, 381 
 Dolosbage, 447 
 Domestic economy, 65
 
 INDEX 
 
 659 
 
 Dondra Fair, 177 
 
 Head, 174 
 
 Double cocoanut, 268, 269 
 D"Oyl3% Sir John, 422 
 Dravidians, 14 
 Drives in Colombo, 52 
 Dumbara, 304, 406-407 
 Dutch Church at Jaffna, 23 
 
 l'",mbassy to Kandy, 20 
 
 Fort at I?atticaloa, 22 
 
 General de Weert's death, 19 
 
 Murder of a Dutch com- 
 mander, 19 
 
 Naval Engagement with the 
 
 Portuguese, 16 
 
 period in Cej'lon, 17-22 
 
 , Taking of Galle by the, 20 
 
 Dutthagamini, 547-549 
 
 ;boav tree, 212 
 
 Edinburgh Crescent, 60 
 
 ;ducation in rural districts, 402 
 
 Ihelapola, 296 
 
 llara, 547 
 
 ilephant Pass, 601-602 
 
 Elephants at Nugawela, 3<S7 
 
 — at play, 3S3 
 
 :mbekke, 245, 328, 329, 334, 335, 
 
 348, 380 
 ".mbilmigama, 242, 245 
 !ttapola, 42S 
 :t\vehera Dagaba, 526 
 
 Ficus Indica, 58 
 Fishing industry, 114 
 
 , Sport of, 114 
 
 Flora, 10 
 
 Flower Road, 71, 77 
 
 Flying foxes, 276, 277 
 
 Fort, Colombo, Plan of the, 39 
 
 , Railway station, 48, no, 
 
 III 
 , Streets of the, 38 
 
 G 
 
 Gadaladeniva, 242, 245, 358, 347, 
 
 3S1 
 Galagedera, 403 
 Gal bod a, 448, 440 
 Galgamuwa, ^,21 
 Galge, 577 
 Galle, 158-166 
 Galle Face, 47, 52, ^}, 
 
 Hotel, 54, 55 
 
 Galmaloya, 413 
 Galpata Wihare, 153 
 Galwihare, 592 
 Gampola, 444 
 Ganewatte, 521 
 
 Garden ("lub. The Colombo, 60, 61 
 
 Gedige Wihare, 338, 344, 345 
 
 Gems, 137 
 
 General, The quarters of the, 56, 58 
 
 Geographical features of Ceylon, 2 
 
 Giant's Tank, 12 
 
 Ginigathena Pass, 198 
 
 Gintota, 158 
 
 Golf Links, Colombo, 72, 75. 76, 77 
 
 Gonawatte, 406 
 
 Government Agents, 398 
 
 Offices, 39 
 
 Gram vendor, 251 
 Grand Pass, 46, 47, 48 
 Green Path, 60, 77, 79 
 Gregory Road, 320 
 Gregory's Radient, 64, 65, 71 
 Guides, 45, 654 
 
 Guildford Crescent, O5 
 
 Habarane, 619-621 
 Hackeries, 122, 187
 
 66o 
 
 IXDKX 
 
 Ilakgalla, 508-511 
 Ilanguranketa, 366 
 Ilantanne, 304 
 llanwella, 182, 189 
 Ilaputale district, 486 
 
 , Drifting mists at, 8 
 
 Harbour of Colombo, Construction 
 of, 30, 31 
 
 , Entering the, 30 
 
 , Scenes within the, 
 
 28, 33 
 
 Ilataraliyadda, 233, 363, 404, 407 
 
 Hatton, 451 
 
 Havelock Town, 113 
 
 Headmen, 243 
 
 Henaratgoda, 206-213 
 
 Hikkaduwa, 157 
 
 Hingula Ova, 238 
 
 History, 13 
 
 Hog's Back Tunnel, 448 
 
 Homagama, 186 
 
 Horana, 137 
 
 Horton Place, 47, 65, 71 
 
 Horton Plains, 482 
 
 Hospital, The Colombo, 47, 71, 77 
 
 , The E3'e, 62, 6^3 
 
 , The Lady Havelock, 49, 51 
 
 Hotel, Bristol, 45 
 
 , Carlton House, 495 
 
 , Galle Face, 54 
 
 , Grand, 495 
 
 , Grand Oriental, 36, 37 
 
 , Mount Lavinia, 117-119 
 
 , New Keena, 495 
 
 , St. Andrews, 495 
 
 Housekeeping in Colombo, 65 
 Huduhumpola, 349 
 Huluganga, 410-413 
 Hunasgeria, 300 
 Hunupitij'a, 205 
 Hyde Park Corner, 47 
 
 I 
 
 Immigration of coolies, 205 
 Induruwa, 42 
 Isurumuniya, 544-547 
 
 J 
 
 Jaffna, 605-614 
 Jak trees, 186, 188 
 Jewellers, 42 
 
 Jetawanarama, 569574, 5J 
 Jinrickshaw hire, 654 
 
 Kachcheri, Kandy, 312 
 Kadugannawa, Dewales at, 23S 
 
 , Road scenes at, 236-247 
 
 Kaduwela, 181 
 Kaluganga, 134, 136, 137 
 Kalutara, 134-140 
 Kamburugamuwa, 170 
 Kandapola, 511-512 
 Kandy, 282-323 
 
 , Arrival of the British at, 287 
 
 , Climate of, 30 
 
 , Dutch period, 287 
 
 , Formation of, 283 
 
 , History of, 283-284 
 
 , Hotels of, 299 
 
 Lake, 286, 302, 303 
 
 , Map of, 297 
 
 , Population and area, 300 
 
 , Streets of, 323 
 
 Kaiidyan architecture, 325-377 
 
 dwellings, 426 
 
 Kangesanturai, 617 
 Kanthalai, 622, 626 
 Kanj^a, hot springs, 634 
 Karuwanella, 194 
 Kataragama Dewale, 329 
 Katugastota, 426 
 Katukurunda, 146 
 Kayman's Gate, 46, 47 
 Keendeniya, 226 
 Kegalle, 198, 227-229 
 Kekuna press, 426 
 
 tree, 425 
 
 Kelani Valley, 178-199 
 Kelaniya, 201 
 
 barges, 204
 
 IXDKX 
 
 66 1 
 
 Kelaniya, Making tiles at, 203 
 
 River, 48, 81, 195, 196, 198 
 
 , Scene on the river, 203 
 
 Temple, 202 
 
 King, Henry S. & Co., 41 
 Knox, Robert, 381, 637 
 Kodikamam, 602 
 Kola nut trees, 264 
 Kollupitiya, 47, 77, no 
 Koralas, 401 
 Kosgoda, 154, 155 
 Kotagala, 461 
 Kundesalle, 296, 369 
 Kurumba, 225 
 Kurunegala, 516-518 
 Kushta Rajah, 169 
 
 L 
 
 Labour, Supply of, 205 
 
 Labugama, 189 
 
 Lace making, 184 
 
 Lake of Colombo, 47, 58, 59 
 
 Lankatilake, 242, 337-341. 378 
 
 Lapidary, The, 88, 90 
 
 Lewella Ferry, 379 
 
 Lewis, The Hon. J. 1'., 325 
 
 Liana grove, 268 
 
 Lovers' Leap, 504 
 
 Lunawa, 120, 121 
 
 M 
 
 Madama, 330, 331, 336 
 Madawachchi, 597 
 Madugoda, 416, 425 
 Magadha, 530 
 Maggona, 149 
 Maha Dewale, Kandy, 34; 
 Mahaiyawa, 426 
 Mahaniega, 535 
 Maha-oya, 226 
 
 Maha Sen, 569 
 
 Seya, 526 
 
 Mahara, 206 
 
 Mahaweliganga, 240. 300, ■\-<t, 409, 
 
 426 
 Mahinda, 531, 535 
 Maho, 521 
 Main Street, 46, 47 
 Maladeniya, 226 
 Malwana, 181 
 Malwatte, 356, 378 
 Manaar, 640 
 Mankulam, 601 
 Map of Anuradhapura, 523 
 
 Colombo, facing f. i 
 
 Fort of Colombo, 39 
 
 Kandy, 297 
 
 I'eradeniya Gardens, 252 
 
 the railways, facing f. 
 
 109 
 Maradana, 45, 49 
 
 Junction, 51, 201 
 
 Marichchukaddi, 641-651 
 Matale, 429-435 
 Matara, 170 
 
 Main Fort, 173 
 
 , Star Fort at, 173 
 
 Medagoda, 193 
 
 Medamahanuwara, 413, 414, 417 
 Memorial of Sir II. Ward, 31S, 319 
 Mihintale, 526-535 
 
 Milagriya, 115 
 
 Minneria, 581 
 
 Mirigama, 21S-225 
 
 Modara, 81 
 
 Mohandirams, 217 
 
 Monsoons, 9 
 
 Moon Plains, 504 
 
 Moonstones, Architectiir.il. ;-.( 
 
 Moormen, 47 
 
 Moratuwa, 121-127 
 
 furniture industry, 125 
 
 Lagoon, 125-127 
 
 Mount Lavinia, 116- 119 
 Mudaliyars, 214 
 Mudbidri, Temples of, 326 
 Museum, Colombo, 47, 60, 61 
 
 of Art at Kandy, 312 
 
 Mutwall, 47, 78, 81. 82
 
 662 
 
 ixnKX 
 
 N 
 
 Naga Pokuna, 532 
 
 Nalande, .377, 430 
 
 Xambapane, 137 
 
 Namunakula, 4SQ 
 
 Nanuoya, 481, 493 
 
 Nata Dewale, Kandy, 345 
 
 National Bank of India, 44, 45 
 
 Navatkuli, 605 
 
 Nawalapitiya, 448 
 
 Nilganga, 172, 173 
 
 Niyangampaya Wihare, 444 
 
 Northern Line itinerary, 515-617 
 
 Xugawela Girls' School, 403 
 
 Nugegoda, 185 
 
 Nutmegs, 270 
 
 Nuwara ]'".liya, 3, 495 
 
 , amusements, 507 
 
 climate, 499 
 
 Golf Club, 497, 507 
 
 , Naseby Hill, 503 
 
 , Season of, 500 
 
 O 
 
 Ohiya, 484, 485 
 Orchids, 275 
 Oriental Library. 
 
 308 
 
 P. t^ O. Steam Navigation Com- 
 pany, 45 
 
 I'addy cultivation, 382-397 
 
 fields at Urugala, 384 
 
 Padukka, 186 
 
 Paiyagala, 146-14S 
 
 Palace, The Old, Kandv, 316, 361, 
 366 
 
 Paliyagoda, 201 
 
 Pallai, 602 
 
 I'almyra cultivation, 275, 606 
 
 Pandu orua, 540-541 
 
 Panedure, 132, 133 
 
 Pannapitiya, 185 
 
 Pansala, Definition of, 237 
 
 Papaw, 264 
 
 Parakrama the Great, 582-5S7 
 
 Paranagantota, 294 
 
 Paranthan, 6oi 
 
 Park Street, Colombo, 58 
 
 Passenger, Advice to the, 34 
 
 Pattipola, 482 
 
 Pattirippuwa, 307, 365, 367 
 
 Pavilion, The King's, 316 
 
 I'eacock Hill, 446 
 
 Pearl fishery, 641, 651 
 
 Pepper grove, 430 
 
 Peradeniya, 249-281 
 
 Botanic Gardens, 249-281 
 
 Junction, 249, 444 
 
 , map of Gardens, 252 
 
 railway bridge, 248 
 
 rest-house, 253 
 
 road from Kandy, 251 
 
 , wayside scenes, 251 
 
 Perahera, 311 
 
 Pettah, 78, 80, 83, 85, 109 
 Pidurutallagalla, 4, 500 
 Pilima, Adigar, 288, 292 
 Pokunas, 562, 564 
 Polgahawela, 229 
 Polonnaruwa, 578-594 
 Polwatte, 47, 78, 79 
 Portuguese period, 14, 17, 21 
 Post Office, The General, 38, 39 
 Potuhera, 515 
 Poya-ge, 237, 370 
 Prince of Wales' College, 121 
 Prince Street, Colombo, 45 
 Prince's Club, 64, 65 
 Public Works, 45, 48 
 Pussellawa, 447 
 Puwakpitiya, 189 
 
 Queen Street, Colombo, 24, 30, 41 
 Queen's House, Colombo, 38, 39
 
 INDEX 
 
 663 
 
 R 
 
 Racecourse, Colombo, 76, 77 
 Ragalla, 512 
 Ragama, 205 
 
 Railwaj' regulations, ammunition, 
 106 
 
 , animals, 106 
 
 , bicycles, 106 
 
 , break of journey, 105 
 
 , children, 105 
 
 , horses and vehicles, 106 
 
 , invalids' accommoda- 
 tion, lOI 
 
 , luggage, 98, loi 
 
 , petrol, 106 
 
 , special terms for par- 
 ties, 105 
 
 , special trains, 102 
 
 , telegrams, 105 
 
 , tickets, 102 
 
 Railwaj's, The, 93 
 
 , Coast Line, 94, 109 
 
 , Kelani Valley Line, 97 
 
 , Main Line, 94, 201 
 
 , Matale Line, 94 
 
 , Northern Line, 94 
 
 , Udapussellawa Line, 97 
 
 , clerks' office, 99 
 
 , list of stations, 107, 108 
 
 , refreshment cars, 96, 97 
 
 , rolling stock, 92, 97 
 
 , saloon car, 104 
 
 , sleeping cars, 95, loi 
 
 , workshops, 96-104 
 
 Rambodde, 447, 504 
 
 Rambukkana, 230 
 
 Rameserani, 638640 
 
 Ratemahatmayas, 398 
 
 Relapalama, 396, 397 
 
 Reservoir at Kand}', 28:;, 30;, 320 
 
 Ricefields, 233 
 
 Roads, 299 
 
 Rodiyas, 244-246 
 
 Rosmead Place, 65 
 
 Royal palms, 276 
 
 Rozelle, 451 
 
 Ruanweli Dagaba, 550-561 
 
 Ruanwella, 194, 195 
 
 Rubber, 209-213 
 
 St. Clair Falls, 463 
 St. Joseph's College, 48, 56, 57 
 St. Thomas' College, 81 
 Saami Rock, 630-633 
 Sardiel, 234 
 Sat-mahal-prasada, 591 
 Satinwood bridge, 24S, 249 
 
 trees, 270 
 
 Scouts' Hill, 234 
 Screw pine, 264, 265 
 Sigiri, 438-443 
 Silversmiths, 253, 315 
 Sitawaka, 190, 191 
 Slave Island, 56, 57, no, iii 
 Snipe shooting, 226, 626 
 Sunset at Colombo, 8 
 Survey Department, 48 
 Syston, 429 
 
 Talawa, 522 
 
 Talawakele, 461, 462 
 
 Talipot palms, 220, 2,.S, j^,,. 260. 
 
 261 
 Talpe, 166 
 
 Tangalla, 174, 176, 177 
 Tarshish, i6i 
 Tea planting, 465-478 
 
 , Shipment of, 37 
 
 Technical school, 49, 51 
 
 Teldeniya, 406-410 
 
 Temple of the Tooth, 307, ^^^ 
 
 Thunbergia, 263 
 
 Thuparania at Anuradhapura, >3S- 
 
 539 
 
 I'olunnaruwa, 5S8-591 
 
 Tiles, Manufacture of, 201 
 Times of Oylon, 47 
 Tissa, 531 
 Tobacco, 606-611 
 Toddy, 141, 142 
 Toluwila, 57S 
 Tom-toms, 3S7 
 Tooth of Ihiddha, 307
 
 664 
 
 INDKX 
 
 'I'ortoiseshell comb making, 85 
 Tramways, Colombo, 47, 48 
 Trincomali, 6i7-6;?7 
 
 , view of harbour, 7 
 
 'I'uiniiane, 405 
 
 U 
 
 (Idapussellawa, 512-514 
 Udugalpitiya, 245 
 I'dupitiyagedara, 418 
 Ukuwela, 428, 429 
 Ulapane, 447 
 Union Place, 47, 56-58 
 ITnited Club, 507 
 Urugala, 413, 419, 425 
 Uva, 482-493 
 , Downs of, 3 
 
 W 
 
 \Vace I 'ark, 320, 321 
 Wadduwa, 134 
 Waga, 189 
 
 Wahala JJandara Deviyo, 2 
 Walagambahu, 217 
 Wall Memorial I'Ountain, 
 Wanni, 600 
 Watagoda, 481 
 Watawala, 451 
 Wattegama, 429 
 Welagama, 363, 367 
 Weligama, 166 
 Wellawa, 521 
 Wellawatta, m, 114, 115 
 \\'ibhisana, 205 
 Wickrama, King, 296, 41S 
 Wihare, Definition of, 237 
 Window frames, 376-377 
 Wolfendahl, 78 
 World's End, 485 
 
 =38 
 60 
 
 \auxhall Road, 47, 56, 58 
 \'avuniya, 597-601 
 \'eyangoda, 213, 215 
 Victoria Arcade, 44, 45 
 
 Bridge, 48 
 
 Esplanade, 319 
 
 Park, 60, 61, 62, 68 
 
 Voyage to Ceylon, 29 
 
 Y 
 
 Yatala Tissa, 205 
 
 Vatiantota, 198 
 
 Vork Street, 42, 44, 49 
 
 \ 
 
 J 
 
 Printed by Cassell & Company, Limited, La Belle Sauvage, London, E. C.
 
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