■iiliiiliiiiiiiiiiiii OTHKR WORKS ON CEYLON BY I'flK SAME AUTHOR I. Golden Tips, a Description of Ceylon and its Great Tea Industry.^ //■//// 21^ Illiislratioiis Jroiii J'/io/o,i;ra/^/is hy the Author. los. 6(1. net. " Mr. C:ivc seems to hold a brief for the whole Island of Ceylon, with its varied attrac- tions . . . The charm of Cingalese life and nature is depicted with glowing colours and interesting details. — Aihenccum. " Mr. H. W. Cave has given us a most fascinating and picturesque account of Ceylon. No one will road the book, with its entrancing photographs, without wishing to set out at once to the enchanted island." — Westminster Gazette. "Mr. H. W. Cave deserves well of Ceylon. He has done an immense amount of work in making the attractions of the Colony known to the reading public who reside in other parts of the lunpire. His latest work is a splendid eSorl." — Standard. II. The Ruined Cities of Ceylon. l-OUKTH EDrj'ION. J2s. net. " A most fascinating and beautiful book. Superlative praise is the only thing it merits." — .■iiitiqiiary. " Written in a very pleasant and scholarly style." — Spectator. " The warmest thanks of every student of Oriental monuments are due to Mr. Henry W. Cave." — Daily Chronicle. III. Picturesque Ceylon and Its Ruined Cities. A New Edition with 124 Photograviovs ami jj Half- Tone Engravings from Photographs hy the Author. Demy ^to. i/ixpxj inches. In handsome inlaid morocco, £10 los. net. "A handsome book with illustrations after excellent photographs by the author. The descriptive chapters are well written." — Saturday Review. " Mr. Cave has scored another distinct triumph .... it is the most praiseworthy attempt to paint the lily that we have seen." — Ceylon Independent. "The book is most beautifully illustrated. Some of the pictures are of extraordinary merit and the accompanying letterpress is always interesting and readable."— Pd// Mall Gazette. " It is charmingly written and charmingly iWaslcsiled." —Black and ]Vhite. IV. Baudenkmaler aus Altester Zeit in Ceylon. ATacA dem Englischen des dlEXKY 11'. CAVE, M.A., F.K.G.S. Ins Deutsche Ubertragen von Anna, Grafin v. Zech. mit 65 Vollbildtrn nach originalau/nahmen des verfassers. 12s. net. This work may be obtained complete in one volume c f 670 pages, 12s. net., or in the following sections : Section I. Colombo, the South-West Coast, and the Kelani Valley. 4s. net. Section 11. Kandy and the Highlands, including Nuwara Eliya, Bandarawela and Badulla. 6s. net. Section 111. The Northern Provinces, including Anuradhapura, Jaffna, Trincomali. The Pearl Fishery and Rame- seram. 4s. net. SECTIONS OF THE ROOK OF CEYLON Part I COI.OMHC), THE vSoi IhAX'ksT CoAST, AM) THIi KkI.AM X'aI.I.KY { passes I — iqq) Part II KAM)^• AM) 'rm-: Hi(iHi.AM)S {Jxjgcs zoo — 514) Part III Thk Nokiiii:kn Pkoxincks [pogcs 515- 04c)) THE BOOK OF CEYLON \ THE LANKATILAKE TEMPLE. c ^^?ZL^.**^^, 5. \ THE ^BOOK OF CEYLON BEING A GUIDE TO ITS RAILWAY SYSTEM AND AN ACCOUNT OF ITS VARIED ATTRACriONS FOR THE VISITOR AND TOURIST BY HENRY W. tCAVE M.A. (OxoN.), F.R.G.S. MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY. ALTHOR OF "GOLDEN TIPS, " THE RUINED CITIES OF CEYLON," " COLOMBO AND THE KELANI VALLEY," " KANDY AND PERADENIYA," " NUWARA ELIYA AND ADAM's PEAK " ILLUSTRATED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THP: AUTHOR CASSELL AND COMPANY'. LlMlIi D London, Paris, Nf.w York, Toronto and Melboirsk. nkmvmi ALL RH.HTS Rt SERVED PREFACE ' I ^ HE design of this book is to help the traveller in Ceylon to a fuller enjoyment of the varied attrac- tions of the island, and to arouse in the general reader a desire to visit a country which has only now begun to receive the attention it deserves. If, as I am glad to be assured, mv previous works on Ceylon have contri- buted in some measure to this end, I trust the more popular form of the present work will still further promote the object which I have in view. Tiu' illustrations are niainh- from photographs taken by me specially for this work; they may be dejDcnded upon, therefore, as representing the aspect of the ct>untrv to-day. Some photographs of places and things that have not changed during the last few years have been introduced from my previous books. For some excellent illustrations in the first section I am indebted to my brotiier. Mr. A. E. Cave; for those on page 12 mv thanks are due to Mr. Owen W. Henman; for Xos. 298 and Ziy) to Mr. M. Kehvay Bamber. F.I.C.. I'.C .S.. M.R.A.C.. and for those on pages log and 21,0 to Messrs. Piatt- \ Co. To Mr. G. P. Greene, the general manager of the Ceylon Government Railwav, I owe a debt of gratitude for information and assistance in manv directions; to my nephew. Mr. \V. A. Cave, I am indebted for the informa- tion gi\-en about the birds of Colombo; and to the Hon. Mr. j. P. Lewis, M.A., Government .Agent of tin- Central Pro\ince of Cexloii, mv warmest thanks are ilue LIBRARY xii I'RKFACP: for his interesting' ((intrihulion on I\and\an architecture; for facihties which enabled me to observe tlie native manners and customs of tlie prcjvince over which he pre- sides, and lor man\- other kinchiesses. And tinall)- it gives me great pleasure to express my indebtedness to mv friend, Mr, V. W. Langston, M.A., of .Merton College, Oxford, who kindlv imdertook the reading of the whole work, and whose many valuable suggestir)ns 1 gratefullv adopted. HENRY \V. CAVF. 44, Sussex Square, Brighton. January, 1908. CONTENTS PART I iNiKODucroRv. Geographical Features. Climate. History The British Administration. Attractions of Cevlon. The Voyage. First Glimpse ok Ceylon. The Harbour of Colombo .......•• Colombo. The Fort. How to See Colombo The Ceylon Government Railways .... The Coast Line Itinerary . . The Kelani Valley ....... The Kelani Valley Itinerary ..... PAOKS 1-25 2O— 37 91 — 108 109 — 177 178—184 185—199 PART II The Main Line Itinerary — Colombo to Peradeniya Junction Peradeniya Gardens ...... Kandy ..... Kandyan Architecture ..... Localities of Kanhyan Temples . . Paddy Cultivation ..... Administration of Rural Districts Education in Rural Districts ..... Galagedara and Hataralivadda .... Teldeniya, Medamahanuwara, Urugala, and Madugoda The MATALt Line Itinerary ..... Dambulla and Sigiri ..... Gampola to Hatton . . ... Adam's Peak . ■ .... Tea Planting ...... DiMBULLA TO BaDULLA . . . ■ NaNUOVA TO NUWARA ElIVA Udapussellawa ........ 200—249 249—281 281-323 324—377 37«-3«2 3^2-397 397-401 402—405 405—406 406 — 426 42f' 433 4H-443 444—452 452—461 465-481 4S1-493 493-5" 51- 5'4 PARI" III Northern Line Itinerary — Polgahawela to Anur.\dii.\pur.< 5^5-522 AnurAdhapuka, MiNNKRiA, and Polonnaruwa .... 522 596 AnuradiiapurA to Jaffna ....... 597 — 617 Trinco.mali ... 618 — 637 Rameseram ...... 63'** — 640 The Pearl Fishery 641 — 649 MAPS AND PLANS Map of Colombo ....... . facing page i Map of Ceylon Showing tub Pkovinces. ... ,,27 Plan of the Harbour of Colombo .... ,, 30 Map of the Fort of Colombo ...... ,, 39 Railway Map ok Ckylon Giving Distances of Stations and their Elevation above Sea Level ... ,, 109 Plan of the Kovai. Botanic Gardens, Peradeniya . ,, 252 Map of the Tcjwn of Kandv ...... ,, 296 Map of AnurAdhApurA . ,, 523 Plan of the Harbour of Trincomali .... ,, C19 f THE BOOK OF CEYLON. PART I. COLOMBO, Thk South-Wi:st Coast, and the Kelam \'ai.lkv. IT would be superlluous to-day to describe geographically the introductory ■^ position of Ceylon on the map of the world. Thanks to the greater facilities of travel in recent years, our acquaintance with the most distant outposts of the empire is now more intimate ih.iii could have been conceived two decades ago, and Ccxlon, which at a period not very remote was little more than a \ague image of poetry or romance, has become an important reality to the merchant, the traveller and the student of ancient civilisation and religion. To those who have the most extensive experience of cast Ctyhm's puuc and west, the claim of Ceylon to be regarded as the very gem '" "" ' "'^'"^ of the earth will not seem extravagant, and the object of the present work will be to afford some evidence in support of this claim. Hut not on aesthetic grounds alone does Ceylon deserve notii c The economic results due to its situation in the eastern seas, a spot on which converge the steamshijis of all nations for coal and the exchange of freight and passengers ; its wealth and diversity of agricultural and mineral products ; the industry of its inhabitants both colonists and nati\es — these, together with its scenery and the glamour of its unri\allcd remains of antic|uitv, entitle Ceylon to a place of high distinction among the (Icpcndcncirs of the c'inpire. in outline C(\ Ion rt'sembles a pear suspended Irom the (,v,>«j.i/>Ak-4h tiny do not suit tiie ti-a\"ellcr from Europe, lhe\- aic in faxour with the iuM'opcan resident of India, Hnrni.ih and the Straits Set t Icincnts, who is beginning to find that a \Isit to ('c\Ion for h -ahh and pl<-asure is the most nrolilahlc within Iiis reach. Till': IU)()K ()!• CliNI.OX Climate Floyji Climate in Dcconber January It is i)crha])s scarcclv necessary to remark that there are no seasons in Cexlon as \\c know them in l'!ur()|)e; tiic dillercnee in the liot (hsiricts lies between hot and a little hott r, and in more temperate districts l:)et\\een cool and a little cooler. Tcnnent, in a passai^c that cannot be improved upon, says : " No period of the year is divested of its seed-time and its harvest in some part of the island ; the fruit han^s ripe on the same branches that are i^arlanded with opening buds. But as every plant has its own period for the production of its flowers and fruit, each month is characterised by its own peculiar flora. As regards the foliage of the trees, it might be expected that the variety of tints would be wanting which form the charm of a European landscape, and that all nature would wear one mantle of imchanging green. But, although in Ceylon there is no re\'olution of seasons, the change of leaf on the same plant exhibits colours as bright as those which tinge the autumnal woods of America. It is not the decaying leaves, but the fresh shoots, which exhibit these bright colours, the older arc still vividly green, whilst the young are bursting forth; and the extremities of the branches present tufts of pale yellow, pink, crimson, and purple, which give them at a distance the appear- ance of a cluster of flowers." It may be useful to the intending visitor to indicate the sort of weather he is likely to meet with at the various centres of interest in each of the months usuall}- chosen for visiting Ceylon. During December Colombo is in man\' respects pleasanter than at any other time of the year. It is cloudy and compara- tively cool, and has an average rainfall of six inches for the month, whii^h scr^•es w'ell to keep the vegetation at its best, and the golf links and other recreation grounds in good con- dition. The rain seldom keeps the visitor prisoner for more than \'erv few hours, while the longer intervals of fine weather are di'lightful. The same conditions apply to the south coast and to Kandy. In Nuwara Eliya the fine weather and the wet are about equal. Anuradhapura expects wet days ; but during the fine intervals is more attractive by reason of the lakes and pokunas being well filled with water. Jaffna is agreeable, and its well-tilled fields look smiling and pleasant. Januarv is on the whole a better month for the ^'isitor. The winds are dry and cool, and it is necessary in Colombo to avoid sitting in them when heated from exercise, or sleeping with windows open to the north. The nights are refreshing, and early morning exercise pleasant. It is a good month for visiting the many towms of interest on the south and south- west coasts. Kandy is cool and delightful and admits of sleep beneath the blanket, while in the mornings and evenings 9. MOUNTAINOUS SPRAY, COLOMBO. 10. A MASSIVE BREAKER, COLOMBO. n. ANCIENT IRRIGATION WORKS. ( Phctografh by One>i IV. Ho THE GIANTS nan, Esq.) ANCIENT IRRIGATION WORKS. THE GIANTS TANK. ( Fhotografh by Oiuen JV. Haitnan, Esq.* THE ]UH)K oi- ei:\i.().\ 13 vii^orous walking- can be indulged in with pleasure. Nuwara climate Eliya has now a mean temperature ol 5*)° F. Fires in the Junuary evening are comfortable, while the early mornings are often frosty. The rainfall here averages 6 inches during this month ; but the fine days are glorious. Anuradhapura has not definitely arrived at its fine weather period; but is generall\' pleasant. It is perhaps sufficient to say that all the photographs in this book illustrating the ruins of the city were taken during the month of January. Jaffna is quite at its best and much cooler than in the later months. In February Coloml^o is dr)- ; the nights are cloudless and lei'iu.uy cool. In Kandy it is the finest month of the year; the days are bright and sunny ; the early mornings cold ; the evenings most agreeable and the nights dewy. Nuwara Eliya is also in its best mood, and is probably at this time as regards climate the pleasantest spot on the earth. I'"ebruary is also a good month for visiting .Anuradhapura, and quite the best for trips to Dambulla, Sigiriya and I'olonnaruwa. Jaffna is also fine, and although it is much warmer than in January it is not }et too hot to be pleasant. In March the heat in Colombo increases rapidly, the earth .\tnrcii receiving more heat than is lost by radiation and e\aporation. The temperature rises to 87° F. during the day and seldom descends below So° F. at night. There is consequently amongst Europeans a general exodus to the hills. Kandy is rather warmer than in February ; the range of the thermometer has decreased and the morning air has lost its crispness ; but the climate is pleasant and the month is a good one for the tourist. Nuwara Eliya is still delightful as in February, but with diminishing range of temperature, the nights being less cold. At the ruined cities the conditions are favourable to tlic \ isitor, the month being quite fine. Jaffna becomes hot; but not unbearably so, and the tourist should not leave it out of his itinerary. Three thousand \ears ago, when the .Sanskrit speaking history .\ryans of the north of India had not as yet emerged from .in,i»i obscurity, the whole of Ceylon was peopled by barbarous tribes, <"/""'^'^ a wretched remnant of whom still exist in the wilds of the Hintenne i-ountr}. Hut before the dawn of civilisation fell ujjon l^igland, histoix tells us of the marvellous colonisation of Ceylon. People of the .\ryan race had disco\ered the wonderful resources of this beautiful island, had conquereti and colonised it, and l)v a svstem of irrigation, which is the .idmiratiim ol the greatest engineeis ol our own time. Iia Ion pro\ ed a hornets' nest rather than a bed of roses. The Sinhalese of the interior did nol at all appro\c of the alliance between Parakrama and tlu' ICurojxans, and with remarkable courai^c they attacked the allies persistently, and with such vii^our that by the year 1 5(1;, the royal stronijhold of Cotta fell, and the Inmiiliatcd kini; t licncc forward resided within the walls of Colombo under the more immediate pro- tection of the Portuguese guns. .So bitterly was the intrusion of the I'ortuguesc resented by the majority of the Sinhalese that all their settlements on the coast were frequently attacked and the inhabitants put to death. The struggle lasted without intermission for one hundred and Iifty years. It is impossible not to admire the spirit of patriotism which sustained tlu; Sinhalese in tluir continual warfai'c o\ er so long a period. The arts of war introduced b\ the foreigner wcic so rapidly learnt and imj^roNed upon, cspcci;i!ly in the inanulaclure of weapons, that they excellt d tlie Portuguese, and on nioic than one occasion defeated tlicin in the held owing to superior accjuaintanee with the use of arms and the tactics that had been first emplcned against llicin. Moreover these sturdy patriots had to contend not only with the Portuguese, but with large bands of their own countrymen who had been won over to the enemv. It was an easy task for the luiropeaiis to take advantage of the rivalries amongst the pett\- kings and chief- tains, and thev were not slow to a\ail themsehcs of their opportunities. For ob\ious reasons the details of the struggle cannot be introduced here, but the tourist who can spare the time to l()o]< u[) the local Iiislory of the period in the work of Tennent and other authorities will l)e the better c|ualified to appreciate the Portuguese innuence that is still obser\a])le in the countr\-, and to discern other results of the efforts of the iii'st luiro])ean colonists in Ce\ Ion which will be brouL;ht before him in these pages. At length Cevlon was lost to the Portuguese, who were The DuUh succeeded bv the Dutch under circumstances that may shortly be told. The Portuguese had been in possession of the carrying trade between h'urope and the ICast for nc-arly a century when Philip II. of Spain acquired the kingdom of Portugal and at the same time lost the allegiance of the I'nited Proxinces, who in their struggli- for independence organised a powerful navy to protect their merchant vessels engaged in sea carriage C i8 'nil'; I'.ooK ()!• cm LO\ History bctwfcn Iuii()|)(;in ])()its. I'liilip strurk at this commerce, and in so (Joins; ullimalcly brought disaster upon the Portui^ucsc. The Dutc-h cairicd on a considerable trade upon the Taj^us in purchasing- the cargoes broui^ht from the East by the Portu- i^ucse and transporting^ them to the northern capital. This traffic being interrupted by the short-sighted policy of Philip, th(; Dutch turned their attention to the Kast and sub\crtcd the Arrival of Portuguese monopoly there. In May 1602 the first Dutih ihe Dutch ^j^jp ^^.j^,-, jp Ceylon anchored off Hatticaloa. Its commander, Spilbcrg, with some difliculty ingratiated himself with the local chief who facilitated his journey to Kandy, where he offered King VVimala Dharma an offensive and defensive alliance with the Prince of Orange. This alliance was accepted with alacrity, the Kandyan king being delighted at the prospect of ousting his bitter enemies the Portuguese. This was eventually accom- plished ; but the event did not accord with the aspirations which Spilberg had excited in the heart of the King. De Weert, who undertook the first cruise against the Portuguese, when under the influence of wine insulted the King, who instantly ordered his attendants to arrest him. Upon his offering resistance he was immediately killed. For the few years subse- quent to this event the Dutch do not appear to have made any further attempt to obtain a footing in the island ; and mean- while King Wimala Dharma died. His brother Senerat married the widowed Queen and in the year 1609 a renewal of the alliance was made, followed by a treaty which gave permission to the Dutch to erect a fort at Cottiar on the north-east coast, and secured to them trade monopolies in return for promised military aid against the Portuguese. But the fort when erected was promptly destroyed by the Portuguese. The Dutch played fast and loose with their Kandyan allies and for the next decade the Portuguese were in the ascendant. In 1627 Senerat, seeing his kingdom encircled by Portuguese garrisons, and being deserted by his Dutch allies, made a great effort. He suc- ceeded in kindling a national movement, organised a con- spiracy amongst the low country chiefs who had gone over to the Portuguese, and with their aid deluded the governor at Colombo into leading his European army against Uva, where they were deserted by all their low country Sinhalese adherents, entrapped and slaughtered. The head of the Portuguese, Governor Constantine de Saa, was presented to the crown prince, who shortly after came to the Kandyan throne as Rajah Sinha II., and during his reign the Portuguese were finally expelled from Ceylon. This however was not accomplished until the lapse of twenty-four years. Rajah Sinha, notwith- standing the heavy blow which his predecessor had dealt the Portuguese just before his death, could not hope to get rid of 17. MURDER OF A DUTCH COMMANDER BY THE SINHALESE. lb. DEATH OF DE WEERT. {nalddus.) EFim 19. RAJAH SINHA RECEIVES THE DUTCH GENERAL AT KANDY. 20. THE TAKING OF GALLE BY THE DUTCH. {Bahlaus.j Till-: JU)()K ()!• C"K\LO.\ The Dutch in Ceylon them without assistance; he therefore appeaKcl to the I)ut(h History at Hatavia, where they had a powerful fleet, and iiuited them to join him in a great effort to expel the I'orluguese from CeylcMi. 'J'he invitation was accepted and a twenty-years' conflict began. One after another the coast forts fell to the Dutch. Batticaloa, Trincomalc, Negombo, Matara, dalle wen- all in their hands, and the investment of Colombo itself was already complete before Rajah Sinha realised that the efforts and sacriflces he was making would end only in the exchange of one enem\- for another. The i)owtr ol tiie Dutch now alarmed him, and he began to favour the Portuguese, per- mitting them to re-capture Negombo while he himself refused to capture Colombo, although he could ha\e occupied it easily. The unexpected then happened. I'L\ents in I'Airope led to an armistice between Portugal and Holland with the result that Rajah Sinha was confronted with the sight of the two armies at peace with one another and respectively occupying the terri- tories in Ceylon which they had previously conquered. He now saw the hopelessness of attempting to get rid of both and adopted the policy of stirring up strife between them. The Dutch preserved their self-possession and persuaded the King that all his troubles were due to the machinations of the Portu- guese. The aim of the Dutch was to obtain the monopoly of the cinnamon trade with the possession of the gardens, and to this end they approached Rajah Sinha with flattery, bribes and servility. Matters had begun to assume a quieter aspect when events in Europe again affected the destinies of Ceylon. In 1(150 the truce between Portugal and Holland ended, and a declaration of war by the Netherlands followed in 1(152. Thus the Dutch and Portuguese in Ceylon were again brought into deadly rivalry. Rajah Sinha favoured the Dutch, (ialle and Kalutara were first taken, and after a severe struggle, lasting for seven months, Colombo capitulated on May 17th, The Dutch were now masters of everv port in the island; hut they had taken them in the name of Rajah Sinha, acting imd, r a ticatv with that monarch so worded that he had a right to expect '.Iinii to regard themselves as occupying the recovered territories on his bihalf. They pri-ferred, however, to place on the treatx' an interpretation more favourable to themselves, and occujiied the fortresses as their own by right of conquist. Thus the Kandyans were duped, and found that, notwithstanding their brave efforts, they had merely i-xchanged Portuguese for Hollander, and wer^' still confined to their fast- nesses in the central mountain zone. I'niike the Portuguese the Dut(Mi dissipated ikmic of their slicngth in fanatical mis- sionary zeal; their whole ihoui'lil and eneri'V were diidted The Portuguese c\pdUd 22 1 1 II-; i;()()K (>!■ c■|•:^■I.().\ History (,, scvuiiiii^ ti'adc monopoly. J>\ means ol a slrmg (jf <(i'cally Diiiih joiii improved lorts at all the ports ser\in^ the cinnamon country and other rich parts of the island they were able to repel the incursions of the Kandyans, and to insure that nothing' was exported save through their factories. The remains of their forts at this day abundantly prove how thoroughly they carried out this policy. The bra\e Kandyans, enduring all this with impatience, frequently put them to the sword, heaped upon them contumely and outrage, and even executed their ambas- Duicii f'oiicy sadors. To such treatment the Dutch replied only with further blandishments and presents and new embassies, by which means they sought to allay resentment while they secured the wealth and produce of the country and shipped it, not onl\- to Europe, but to India, Persia and other countries of the East. Commerce was their one and only object, and to preserve this a policy unworthy of conquerors was maintained towards the Kandyans during the whole of the Dutch period in Ceylon. It was in fact a policy of obtaining- wealth by any and every artifice, a method not unknown to or unpractised by even prouder nations at this period. The British We have seen how in turn the Portuguese and the Dutch vccupatwn. (^.^^le into partial possession of Ceylon and what use they made of their conquests. A\'e now proceed to the British period and the consideration of the social and economic changes that followed on the British occupation. The attention of Great Britain was not turned to Ceylon with ideas of conquest until late in the eighteenth century, when it became absolutely necessary that it should be added to the Indian possessions of the British Crown. The Dutch had never done more than occupy the maritime provinces in military fashion. It remained for the British to introduce civilised colonisation throughout the length and breadth of the island, and to develop its resources. The rupture between Great Britain and Holland in 1795 was the occasion of sending a force against Ceylon. The King of Kandy was as anxious now to ally himself with the English for the expulsion of the Dutch as his predecessor had been to ally himself with the Dutch to oust the Portuguese ; but before negotiations could be concluded the British had taken posses- sion of all the fortresses. Trincomale, after a three weeks' siege, was the first to fall ; Jaffna next surrendered ; Calpentvn and Negombo were in turn occupied ; Colombo and the rest capitulated, and by February i6tli, 1796, the occupation was complete. The Dutch were not driven out by the English as the I'ortuguese had been by the Dutch. On the contrarv their property was preserved to them, their institutions were upheld, their code of laws adopted, and public offices of trust were awarded to them whic-h their descendants hold to this dav. ^ T' 21. THE DUTCH FORT AT BATTICALOA. 22. DUTCH CHURCH AT JAFFNA. 23. QUEEN STREET COLOMBO, FROM THE GORDON GARDENS. 24. QUEEN STREET, COLOMBO, FROM GALLE FACE. rill'; iiooIk ()!• ( I'Ni.oN 25 A short period ol miMiiaiiai4\ mcnt tOllouxtl tlu- aniK-xation. History The administration ol the new colony was placed in the hands y^,, UfUish of the Ciovernor of Madras who ^ave great offence to the •" CeyUm Sinhalese by sending- over incompetent civilians assisted by Malabar subordinates to collect the revenues. The unwisdom of this policy was, however, soon rectified by the home govern- ment, who decided that Ceylon should be go\erned by the Crown direct by nnaii^ of a responsible (lovernor and ci\il oiliccrs appointed by the King. The beneficent policy thus A'f^"" "/ introduced gradually wrought the change that has made Ceylon ""'"'" one of the freest, happiest, most prosperous and attractive countries in the world. What a century of British rule has accomplished for Ceylon the tourist will see for himself as he explores the island with the assistance and information proffered in these pages. 1 do not here refer to the dilliculties with which the British had to contend before the Kand\ans sul^mitted to the new govern- ment or do 1 explain the methods which brought about tin- great amelioration now enjoyed by all races that inhabit tlu- island. It will be of greater interosr to the traveller to learn the.sc things as he journevs nwv tlie ground w hi-ri- historical incidents have occuirt-d, where tlu' ini]3ro\ ement in ci\il life is most manifest, and w lure iH-ononiie ])rogress has been most notici'able. We ha\e seen how our predecessors came into pos.session The iintiih of Ceylon, what use ilie\ made of it, and how and when it was "'^"JJ,'',"" translerred to us. Helore proceeding to (~on.si(k'r how wt- have dealt with it and what are its present attractions it mav be of interest to describe the system of administration. It is a common error to suppose that Ceylon is controlled \)v the administration of India. I'>thnologicallv onlv is it part ol India. (leographicalK , politicallv and in e\t'r\' other wa\' it is distinct from the adjoining continent. Its svstem of government is that of a Crown Colon\, which literallv means autocratic rule I)\' the niinist( r who happens for the time being to preside over the Colonial ()rrKc in London; but the actual administration is in the hands of a (lo\ernor, assisted by an I". xecLitivc Council of the chief five oHicials in the Colony. I li!' loc.'d legislature consists of the Cioxcrnor, the above coun- eilloi's, loui' otliei" i^o\(rninent ollieials ol the cix d ser\ice and eii^lit imoHicial members ai^poinled b\- the (ioxt-rnor. l-iom this preponderance ol ollieials and the circumstance that all ordinane .s are sul)je<'1 to the sanction or veto of the Secri-tary of State in London it will be seen that the people ha\e littli' \i)iee in the governnuMit of the colony. Nevertheless public o|)inion thi'ough the press has its inlluenee upon the council, which usiialh acts with wisdom and diseietion. The fail that 26 I III': HOOK oi'" c•|•:^■|.o^■ The British ;ill scdions aiul (hisses of tli ■ popiilalion arc prosperous and Administration coiitcnU'd is the bcst defence of llie system, which, however objectionable it may seem in theory, works well in practice. The power and responsibility for good or ill placed in the hands of (i()\ crnors of Ceylon have never been misused. I Ik' Governors ha\'e been a series of men remarkable for th( ir industry and their capacity for directing the destinies of the country placed in their charge, and to them is mainly due its preseiit high place amongst British possessions. The Governor receives his appointment from the Crown, generally for a term of six years, and his powers are con- trolled only by the authority of the Crown. The adoption or rejection of the advice and enactments of his councils and legislature rests entirely with himself. He can overrule their deliberations or nullify their labours ; but the necessity for such extreme measures has scarcely ever arisen. The functions of government are carried out by a civil service organised on the model of that of India. Each of the nine provinces into which the island is divided has its chief and assistant govern- ment agents, who are responsible to the central Government. Details of their important duties and the organisation of the administration carried out by them will be gathered in the accounts of the various provinces through which the traveller will be conducted. Attractions "fhc attractions of Ceylon are manifold and appeal to a of Ceylon variety of tastes and needs. First of all the economic condi- tions of the country are encouraging to the capitalist who devotes his energies to tropical agriculture as a means of increasing wealth ; tea, rubber and cocoanuts flourish remark- ably and seldom fail to yield an abundant return to the careful investor. Many people visit Ceylon in search of health, or to escape the rigours of the European winter, and it is noticeable that the visit once made is often repeated. As a health resort Ceylon not only possesses a warm and equable climate, but the recommendation of complete change of scene. To the enervated European residents of the plains of India it is a veritable paradise ; they are discovering that a visit to Kandy and Nuwara Eliya is not only a source of health but of enjoyment, and that it restores their vanished energies without the great expenditure of time and money involved in a voyage to Europe. At any rate a visit to Ceylon during the Indian hot season offers many more advantages than the usual sojourn in a hill station in India itself. The change of air and of scene is more complete. To the leisured classes the attractions of Ceylon are perhaps the greatest, and it is satis- factory to be able to assure the public that consideration for their comfort and convenience is alwavs increasing. The Kaj%iusmft ttir94 i XIAP of tbr ISLANDoi C£YLON ScMlr of 3 jUlltSlo tnh\rtt ^Z \fti|] ff TttTVTl **'»Vi Pro¥incf Soundcrits .♦■- OiStrfCt , - . tncumftlf* KtQom bo THE BOOK OF CICVLOX 29 northern rail\va\ has added immensely to the opportunities Attractiom of the visitor who ean now explore the most remarkable *•' Ceylon antiquities in the world with a reasonable expenditure of time and in perfect comfort. Every leisured taste can be gratified — whether it be antiquarian, sesthetic, ethnoloj^ical, entomo- logical, botanical or sporting ; and when it is considered that the gratification of such tastes can be accomplished in such an agreeable climate and during a period when the very opposite conditions prevail in ICurope it is almost a wonder that anv who can avail themselves of these opportunities fail to do so. In this age of the open-air cure, what more per- fectlv suital)le can be imagiiucl than this land of open doors and windows, where there is no cliill in the breeze or miasma in the draught; but everywhere a genial and health-giving atmosphere. Colombo being the " Clapham junction " of the Eastern The \o>aKe shipping world, it can be easily reached from any part of the earth. From Europe the choice of steamer and route is too extensive for detailed mention here; it may however be stated generally that for those who like a long sea voyage it is desirable to embark in London or Liverpool, in which case the time of the voyage will be from twenty-two to twenty-five days. Steamships arc now so large and luxurious that there is no longer fear of any considerable discomfort from rough weather for the moderatelv good sailnr. Moreover, if he likes the sea and deri\es benefit from it he will get more for his money by avoiding the continental routes. On the other hand the indifferent sailor or the traveller to whom time is an object will do well to embark at Marseilles, Genoa or Naples ; while one in great haste will accompany the mails viti Brindisi, whence he will dash across to Port Said, regardless of weather, in the diminutive Isis or Osiris at a speed which gi\es rise to motion that has not all the quality of poetry. The tra\eller so pressed mav reach Cevlon in fifteen davs ; nine of which will be pleasant enough ; for at Port Said he will tranship to the •Australian mail steamship and come down to a speed of 375 miles a dav. The route t'/V/ Marseilles is pri'ferable and gives a wider choice of steamships. The time taken from London to Colomljo 7'iii Marseilles is se\enteen to eighteen days. Till- character of tlu' first glimpse of Cevlon neci-ssarily First Ki'mp-*-" \ aries w ith the time of da\ and the atmospheric C(>nditi(»ns "* Ccvion that may be prevailing. During the north-east monsoon, from October to April, which is the best season for \isiting Ceylon, the conditions are generally favourable, and the scene which unfolds itself to us if wc are earlv risers, and ha\'e the t;ood fortune to approach the coast at break of da\', is one of uniqm- beautv. Colombo 30 rill': HOOK ()!• (•I•:^■I.o\" l-irst jrlimpse Wv hcliold liisl tile ni()iml;iiii zone, s;nrcd to tea ijrodui tion, of Ceylon risiiit;- in one Miii^filx' uphcaxal Iroin the j)laiiis of Ceylon, and ('ai)[)C(l in llic icntrc by llic Ncncralcd ])cak named after our first parent. 'Jhc mists arc as yet lying- in the valleys, and the cool bku; tones above them ^^ive us the true contour of those fertiU? mountains upon which millions of tea bushes arc nourishing-. At different elevations there are four extensive Icdg-cs which appear to rise abruptly from the base, and from these a number of lofty mountains raise their rugg^cd brows to the height of 5,000 to S,ooo feet. Here we get the best idea of the formation of those highlands which we shall presently explore, whose deep ravines and g-rassy plains, dense forests and open valleys, gentle streams and roaring cataracts, no less than their tens of thousands of acres of tea, we shall sec in the fuller detail of closer view. Approaching As wc approach nearer and nearer we sec the mists arise, attracted upwards by the rays of the rising sun, and a scene of verdant loveliness is disclosed which stands in welcome con- trast to the parched and barren shores we have left behind at Suez and Aden. The mountains are now lost to view and the details of the beautiful palm-fringed shores gradually increase as we steam towards the harbour. A few objects rising- from the mass of foliage arouse our curiosity during the last three or four miles of our approach. On the extreme right is Mount Lavinia Hotel, scAcn miles south of the harbour. Galle Face, a lawn of some three hundred acres, devoted to cricket, hockey, football and a seaside esplanade, appears prominently on the starboard bow ; and it will be noticed that the greensward terminates at the south and in an extensive and handsome building which is Gallc Face Hotel. The building of oval shape near the hotel is the Colombo Club. Straight ahead we notice the dome of the Roman Catholic Cathedral, to the left of which appears the tower of the Anglican Cathedral ; while on the right of it are the Dutch Church of Wolfendahl and the spire of the Anglican Sinhalese Church of All Saints. Entering the Now WC cntcr thc harbour and the eye is filled by the luxuriant life and the brilliant light that combine to greet us. We glance for a moment at the noble breakwaters fixed so firmlv in the ocean bed that year after year they with- stand the masses of sea hurled upon them by the fury of the monsoons. The (construction of the harbour was begun in the year of King Edward's visit to Ceylon, 1875, and the first block of the south-west arm, which is 4,000 feet long, was laid by his Majestv (then Prince of Wales"). The complete scheme will be seen upon reference to our map. It comprises three Iiaibour 26. THE PALM-FRINGED SHORE. ,^^\\.^r^^ • ;i.S.ii» 27. PLAN OF THE HARBOUR. Tin-: HOOK OF CK\I.()X 33 breakwaters, the north-west, the middle, and the south- Harbour of west, the aggregate length being about 8,000 feet with ^<»'°'"*'" openings for entrance and exit. The harbour thus formed has a water area of a square mile and provides accommodation for about fifty steamers besides smaller craft. At the north- east is a dry dock which is capable of receiving any warship or merchant vessel afloat, and in addition to this a slip has been provided for the overhauling and repair of smaller vessels. This fine harbour, which has cost about two and a half millions of pounds sterling, has been of immense value to the colony, not only in protecting from the fury of the elements the ships that bring supplies and carry away the country's produce, but in attracting the shipping of the Eastern world, and of the more distant colonies, by the convenience it offers as a coaling station and entrepot for exchange of passengers. The ship- ping trade now carried on within this port would have been impossible in the 'seventies, when every vessel was compelled to anchor in the open roadstead, and to embark and discharge in a sea that was often rough and sometimes dangerous. Indeed, so difficult was the transaction of shipping business owing to the heavy surf that the P. & O. Company avoided Colombo altogether and landed both passengers and mails at (xalle. The transformation is one of which the (-oloiiy may well be proud. There are now from twenty to forty steam- ships always to be seen riding at anchor within the harbour, and the tonnage entered and cleared in the course of the year amounts to upwards of ten millions. The volume of business which such figures suggest is striking, not the least important consideration being the constant and regular shipping of the colony's produce to the markets of the world. Some idea of the protection afforded by the south-west riu breakwater may be obtained by a glance at our illustration. '"''<'*"''''"■ Here we see the effect of the south-west monsoon driving enormous waves with terrific force against the great mass of concrete whose resistance shoots them aloft in masses of spray that often extend some thousands of feet, and frequently enshroud the harbour. Su(-h scenes pr(\ail in June and con- tinue with diminishing \ thcnience until October, w Inn the north-east monsoon sets in, blowing from off the land. We have now arrived within the harbour, and oiu- atten- nnhin the tion is arrested by many quaint scenes. A multitude of '""'*"'"■ canoes from the shore arc making for our \(ss»l. Their singular form immediately excites our curiosity. Each is constructed from the trunk of a tree, which is first hollowed out and tlun levelled at the top. Halance is secured by an outrigger attachment, which consists of two poles of wood extending at right angles to a distance of nbout ten feet from I) 34 iiii'; iK)()K oi-" ci':\Lox Sinhalese cunoes Advice to the passenger Landing- The Customs the l)()cl\" ol the boat, and connected at tlie ends l)y a flcjat. i)uv illustration will gi\c a better idea oi them than \erbal description. Boats of this construction are used almost uni- versally by the Sinhalese for fishing and for passenger traffic. '1 hey withstand the roughest sea, and literally fly before the breeze. As each steamer drops anchor within the magnificent breakwater of Colombo these weird crafts crowd around, many of them bringing traders laden with precious stones, which will be cjffered at double or treble their value to unwary pass- engers ; others plying for the hire of their boats to take passengers ashore, some with dusky Tamils who sing unceas- ingly to the plash of their oars ; many with comely Sinhalese of lighter complexion, their long hair twisted into a thick knot surmounted by a tortoiseshell comb, giving them a curiously feminine appearance; some with Indo-Arab traders in curious costumes of many hues, their shaven heads crowned with tall plaited brimless hats of parti-coloured silks. This motley fleet is the first scene of novelty that claims attention upon arrival in the harbour of Colombo. Travellers who have not been in the East before should now, as the ship drops anchor, accept and lay well to heart two pieces of emphatic advice ; first, never expose your head to the sun's rays unprotected by a good sun hat and an open umbrella ; and second, beware of the importunate sharks who offer you " bargains " in precious stones and curiosities. If you do not want such things do not buy them ; but if you do want them inquire of the local agents of well-known London houses such as Messrs. Henry S. King & Co. and Messrs. Thos. Cook & Sons, who will recommend you to the most trustworthy native dealers. No bargaining is necessary or even admissible in the English shops of Colombo, but outside them the traveller must be his own judge of values. To this admonition may perhaps be added one more. Do not brook any pestering or annoyance on the part of jinrickshaw coolies or others ; but inform the police, who have their instructions to protect the stranger from all importunities to which he objects. The distance of the landing jetty from our ship will vary from a mile to a few hundred yards according to the berth allotted for anchorage. Passengers go ashore at their own convenience in launches, canoes, or jolly boats, all of which ply for hire around the steamer. The boats are licensed. The rates of hire are observable in a prominent place upon arrival at the landing jetty, and a jetty sergeant is present to afford information and check any incivility on the part of boatmen. The Customs officials are courteous and obliging to tra- vellers, who are not required to pay duty on such articles as 30. CARTING TEA FOR SHIPMENT. 31. THE GRAND ORIENTAL HOTEL. THE HOOK ()[■' C"i:\ LON 37 comprise ordinary travelling baggay^e. Hut firearms are liable The to a duty of five to ten rupees ; and articles which arc not in '-"''»"'"■* use and possess a market value are liable to a duty of 5'. per cent, on that \alue. Rates of carriage hire, 'rickshaw iiirc, p()rtag«'S and >tatis- tical information generally are gi\en at the end of this \()lume, and will be easily found on reference to the index. In few of the world's large ports is the traveller offered The lort so pleasant a prospect upon landing. There is usually a slum to be traversed before the surroundings become attractive, but here we are at once in pleasant places. Upon leaving the jetty we arrive in the Fort, which term in olden times, as we shall later show, bore its literal meaning; but now indicates that portion of Colombo occupied chietly by the residence of the Governor, the offices of the Go\ernment and of the Hritish merchants. We are impressed by the prosperous appearance of the place. The streets are broad ; the roads are good ; the merchants' offices and stores are capacious and in many instances possess considerable architectural merit, while the hotels are superior to any others in the East, a matter of no small importance to the traveller and resident alike. We are at once confronted by one of them. The Cirand Oriental Hotel faces us as we leave the harbour. Our illustration will gi\e some idea of its proportions. The "G.O.H.," as this fine hotel is familiarly called, commands the best view of the harbour and shipping. In approaching it we pass o\er a bridge under which runs a road specially constructed for cart traffic to the harbour. Here we notice operations sufficiently novel to attract the attention of the traveller, and at the same time \cry significant of Ceylon's prosperity. Hundreds of pairs of Indian humped-bulls are drawing down 1 h thousands of chests of Ceylon tea; dusky Tamil and Sinhalese ^Jj'f"^"" coolies arc receiving it into boats and c()n\e\ing it to the steamers. Every stroke of work ashore or pull of oar afloat is accompanied by an inordinate amount of jabber. I'he tongue of the harbour coolie seems to move automatically, but we are told that the soft tones which he ejaculates c(nil(l not be translated into ICnglish : there arc no words or phrases suffi(Mentlv shocking for the purpose. However, as we do not understand him we are not offended ; w hile his methods and proceedings amuse us. Quite near the entrance of the (ir;in(i ()ri(iit,il Hotel will be noticed a statue of Queen X'ictoria in white marble. This was erected bv the colonv as a memorial of her Majesty's Diamond Jubilee in iSc)^. It is the work of Mi', (i. E. Wade. Those who \ isit the Grand Oriental Hotel will note its Hi/ iiandsoinc dining hall, cliarming jialni courl and gardrn, fine >S IIII': HOOK Ol' ClOVLOX The Fort billiard rooms, and ;ilj()\c, all its outlook o\cr the harhfjur whence our view, plate 25, was obtained. The cosmoptjlitan nature ot the crowds that assemble in the spacious verandahs and balconies, when steamers from various parts of the wcjrld arrive together, affords mutual interest and amusement. .\t night the gardens are brilliantly illuminated. streets of 'j^j^g Fort, a plan of which is annexed, can easilv be ex- plored on foot and without a guide. By turning to the left on leaving the front entrance of the hotel we pass the old banqueting hail of the Dutch Governors, which now does duty as the English Garrison Church of St. Peter. It contains some interesting memorials, and is worth a visit. Turning again to the left we pass along Queen Street, with the (iordon (rardens on our right and the Legislative Council Chambers and various Government offices on the left (Plate 32). The Government Archives are also located here and include the oflicial records of the Dutch Government from the year 1640 to 179ft, besides the British records from the latter date. The Gordon Gardens were laid out and planted wdth a variety of ornamental trees at the private expense of Sir Arthur Gordon (now Lord Stanmore) when Governor of Ceylon, as his per- sonal gift to Colombo in honour of the Jubilee of her Majesty Queen Victoria. The Queen's Adjoining the Gordon Gardens is the residence of the House Governor of the colony, known as the Queen's House. Although not a handsome building its massive masonry and spacious corridors provide what is most desirable in a tropical residence, protection from the sun's rays, while the grounds of some four acres are shaded by beautiful trees. It was erected about the middle of the last century. We cannot give an adequate idea of the architecture or general appearance of this building from a photograph, for it is not only in a somewhat confined position for so large a house, but is also embowered in foliage. Some idea of its appearance from the street may be gathered from our plate 33. Gnierai Immediately opposite the Queen's House is the General Post Office p^^^j Office (Plate 34). Of this building the colony is proud, although comfort has been sacrificed somewhat to appearance. The European staff find it rather warm. Of the department housed here only praise can be given. The colony is abreast of the times in its postal arrangements, and in many instances offers advantages that the Old Country has not begun to pro- vide, notably, a ^'alue-payable parcels post ; while its post-card and newspaper rates are one-third lower than in Great Britain. The visitor will find the arrangements for his convenience satisfactory and complete. He will enter by the handsome flight of steps leading to a spacious hall floored \\ith intaglio 32. GOVERNMENT OFFICES. THE QjEEN S MO. •iE. 34. THE GENERAL POST OFF XANKS AND BANKS IN QUUN ■Tnilt 36. IMPORTING HOUSE OF CAVE &, CO., QUEEN STREET. 37. CHATHAM STREET. iiii': iu)()K oi'- ( i:\i,()\ 41 tiles. Here he will liiul the posie-restaufc rountcrs as well as The lort every other postal facility. The next buildings to claim our notice as we pass alonj^ r„,«„ stnct Queen Street are the Honj^- Kon^- and Shans^hai Hank and the Chartered Bank of India on the kit (Plate j^5). These institu- tions occupy the building; imrv famous as the premises of the Oriental Bank which came to g^rief nearly thirty vears a£jo throug-h the ruin of the coffee industry. Its failure gave occasion for a striking act of courage on the part of Sir Arthur Ciordon, who was then Governor. The notes of the bank were held by natives all over the island and represented their onlv medium of exchange for food. With the closing of the bank's doors starvation must inevitably have overtaken them had not Sir Arthur Gordon pledged the credit of (iovernment as guaranteeing payment of the note issue. Few Governors would have dared so much ; hut Sir .Arthur was the man for such a crisis, and his action has ever been remembered with gratitude. Opposite these banks is another institution of a similar character, the Mercantile I?ank of India. An equalK venerable thing is the sacred Bo Tree which flourishes at its entrance. This tree is of the same species as the famous specimen at Anaradhapura, now upwards of two thousand years old, whose history is described on a later page. Here Oueen Street is intersected by Chatham Street, and ihe in the middle of the crossings stands the Lighthouse of ''s'"'"""' Colombo, w'hich serves the additional purpose of a clock tower. The quadrilateral shape of this building is unusual in a light- house, and its more important purpose is sometimes unsus- pected by the visitor who passes by. Quite close to the lighthouse is a fine building occupying the corner of I'pper Chatham and Queen Streets with a frontage of four hundred feet. It is the importing house of the Messrs. Cave (Plate 30). agents for Messrs. Henry S. King 8c Co., and a rendezvous umiv s. for passengers where they can obtain reliable information and '^""■' '" ^" purchase such arti(^les as they are most likelv to need. In particular the whole bibliography of Ceylon is available here. As we approach the end of Queen Street we notice the militar\- officers' quarters on the right, the left being occupied (hieflv by the ofTices of shipping houses and produce brokers. We now proceed by wa\' of Chatham .Street. Our \iew chathtim (Plate ;\y) is from Cave's entrance. Tin- stranger will be struck with the picturesque appearance of this and other streets of Colombo due to the Katu Imbul or rain trees bv which thev are shaded. The\- are called rain trees from the circumstance that at night the li-aves fold into a kind of sack in which the moisture condenses, and at simrisc when the leaves open is discharged in a shower. The .*^uri\a tree {Tlirspcsiii />(>/>»/>/('(/) 42 'IHK BOOK OI' Ci:\ LOX The Fort «»ls() alTorcis shade to many of the streets and rcjads ; it llowcrs Chatham profuscly With delicatc primrose-coloured blossoms, lars^e and ■^'"'' showy, changing to purple as they fade, and in form resembling the single scarlet hibiscus. The roads are metalled with dark red cabook, a product of disintegrated gneiss, which being subjected to detrition communicates its hue to the soil. This feature of the roads is not only pleasant for its vivid contrast with the verdure of the trees; but is most useful in softening the glare of tropical sunlight. This alleviation, due to the presence of cabook, extends along the south-west coast and includes Galle ; but the traveller will note its absence in Kandy, whose white roads are not exactly soothing to the vision. During dry weather the fine red dust imparts its tint to one's clothing, an evil of small account in a place where it is too hot for smart attire. After passing the German Consulate and the offices of the agents of the Nord Deutscher Lloyd, we notice that Chatham Street is composed of a strange medley of restaurants, native Tc-u'cUers jewcllcrs', curiosity shops and provision houtiqites, and that the houses are for the most part old and limited to one floor. It is a remnant of old Colombo in the sailing ship days and must soon disappear as most of the Dutch buildings have alrcadv done, giving place to colossal houses of business befitting the dignity of the port. The visitor will, however, find manv curious things in the Sinhalese jewellers' shops. Hardlv any attempt is made to display the wares to the view of the passer by ; but if he will enter and take a seat at the emptv table he may be surprised at the beautiful workmanship in ivorv and jewelled caskets, the tortoiseshell work and the precious stones that will be hauled out of safe places and set before him in these humble-looking shanties. York stiect We turn to the left into York Street (Plates 39 and 40), which would scarcely be recognised by those who left Ceylon twenty years ago. It contained the eastern wall and moat of the old Dutch fort which have disappeared in favour of the Office of Public Works, the Bristol Hotel, the Survey Depart- ment and the Chamber of Commerce. The Survev Department stands on the right of the way leading to the Fort Railway Station, a continuation of Chatham Street which we see before we turn into York Street. Here the meteorological records are received from the various stations all over the country and prepared for publication ; maps and plans are executed under the direction of the SurA'eyor General, the lithographic equipment for this purpose being of the most complete and perfect description. A detailed and accurate survey of all the lands of the colony has for some vears been the chief work of this department of the Govern- ment. 38. CHATHAM STREET. 39. YORK STREET. 40. YORK STREET. 41. THE NATIONAL BANK AND THE VICTORIA ARCADE. Tin-: iu)()K oi- ci:\i.o\" 45 Opposite the Survey Department Offices is the location of f^e Fort the Chamber of Commerce. This society was established in ammOer ../ Colombo in the year 1837 to protect the interests of the colony's ^-o""""" trade. -MI the important mercantile firms are represented in its deliberations. It gives authority to rates of agency and commission ; it fixes a standard tonnage scale for all classes of produce ; arranges rules and conditions of produce sales ; nominates surveyors, arbitrators and umpires, thereby gi\ing an olficial character to Iheir reports and awards; and assists the Government by its discussions and resolutions upon com- mercial matters which call for legislation. Its inlluencc in this last direction is important and considerable, and is rendered the more effective by the circumstance that its wishes are made- known in the legislative assemblies by the Mercantile Member of the Council, who is practically its own representative. The Department of Public Works is first on our right as PuUHc we proceed along York Street. It is responsible for the ex- "'"'^** pcnditure of about five millions of rupees per annum on the con- struction of roads, bridges, government buildings and public works generally throughout the colon}-. The olVice of the Registrar General is in the same building. The Bristol Hotel partly observable in our plate is one of nrisU'tiivut the three large hotels in Colombo which can justlv and proudK' boast of being second to none in the East. It is well ap]5oiiUed, comfortable, and enjoys a large local cUcniele as well as the patronage of the passing tourist. Opposite the Hristol is the handsome store of Cargills, Limited, which will interest the traveller who has wants to be supplied. The National Hank and the Victoria Arcade are next noticed, the latter being interesting as containing the local offices of Messrs. Thos. Thos. ox.* Cook & Son and the Peninsular and Oriental Steamship Com- *" ^'"* pany. Prince Street and Baillie Street intersect the square which we have traversed. The latter is a somewhat narrow , and therefore treeless, but busy thoroughfare, containing many merchants' otlices, the Bank of .Madras and the office of the Ceylon Observer, a daily newspaper edited by the Hon. Mr. John Ferguson, C.M.G., who represents the gineral luiropian interests in the Legislative Council ivl the coionx , and his son Mr. Ronald I<"erguson. Colombo may be seen in a day with or w ithout a guide ; (,,,,/,. but thousands of passengers who spend only a day ashore fail to obtain any adequate idea of the place from want of reliable advice and direction. Local guide books teem with adver- tisements and consign you to the shops. The human guide does little more unless you know wh:it you want to do and insist on doing it. In this book the interests of the visitor onh are 'onsidered. If he wants to see Colombo in a to fully appreciate these novel scenes ; but a glance at them through three miles of native streets is all that time affords. The terminus is reached at the River Kelaniya, about which more information will be gathered as this book proceeds. We can spare a few minutes to look around at the scenes on the river bank and even to cross the river by the ferry as the returning trams leave at intervals of five minutes. Or we can stroll along to the Victoria Bridge which has replaced the old picturesque bridge-of-boats which once did the duty of connecting the northern road with Colombo. The native life and customs here will instruct and amuse us, and we shall regret that time does not admit of a more prolonged explora- tion. The return journey will enable us to enjoy more fully the points that almost escape our notice owing to the rapidity of the car. The Boreihi Having returned to our starting point we now take a seat iiamway j^^ ^j^^ ^^^ xh^i movcs off in the opposite direction. Proceeding up York Street (Plate 50) and turning by the Public Works Office we pass the Chamber of Commerce, the Survey Office, and the Fort Railway Station of the southern railway. The lake scenery first claims our attention. Presently we pass the Royal College situated on high ground to the left. This is the principal Government educational institution, the nucleus of a future university. A distant view of St. Joseph's Roman Catholic College across the lake is observed, a handsome build- ing which we shall see later in the detail of closer inspection. A ferry (Plate 51) connecting with a peninsula of the lake called Captain's Garden provides a pretty bit of scenery, and here we notice the operations of the washerman, the dark, dank dhoby who bleaches our soiled linen by the primitive method of beating it upon slabs of rock. Upon leaving the lake the line passes the main Railway Station upon the right and the Technical School (Plate 52) upon the left. The latter is an institution at present not very enthusiastically appreciated by the natives of the country for whose benefit a paternal government has provided it. The object of its establishment is to provide training in civil engineering, surveying, tele- graphy, electrical and mechanical engineering. The Ceylonese, howe\er, do not take kindly to technical work, preferring rather 50. YORK STREET. 51. THE FEHHY. TECHNICAL SCHOOL V ^ ^— MOHAMMEDAN MOSQUE. APANA HOAD. SO. LADV HAVELOCK HOSPITAL. MADADANA ROAD. ^!?€^S^fe B8. BASKETS AND BROOMS. 59. BROOMS AND BASKETS. 60. THE POULTERER. 61. THE COBBLER. 32. THE ASTROLOGER. 63. THE TINSMITH 64. THE RICE VENDOf). 65. THE MEDiCINE Sh-OP. Till!: H(j()K ()[■ c l•:^■|.().\ 51 tin: prc;lcssioiis ol clerks, lawyers and chxtors. It is hoped Hov* to see however that this attitude towards mechanics and art \\ ill soon ^''''""''** disappear and that the Technical School will serve the admir- riu liouiUi able purpose ol supplying tJTe Public Works, the Railway, the """^'^>' Irrij4ati()n and the l-"orestry departments of the (io\"ernment with plent\- ol s^ood men whose capacit\ will be as thorout^h and whose enthusiasm in their profession will be as great and whole hearted as that of the imported l^uropean. After passing- the Technical School we proceed along Mara- dana Road for half a mile, when w c- pass over the railway at the Junction Station where trains lea\e for the coast line ;ind the Kclani X'alley as well as for up-country. Then we notice on our left the Police Headquarters and Parade (iround, and on the right the largest Mohammedan mos(|ue in Colombo (Plate 54). Other notablt ])laces are the Lad\ lla\ clock Hospital for women and children (Plate 50) erett^d in i.SgG by public subscription and named after Lady Havclock who was the leading spirit in its establishment; the headquarters of the medical department presided o\cr b\ Sir Allan Perr\- ; the Roman Catholic Archbishop's house and Campbell Park, into which the \isitor might stroll for a few minutes before taking a tram back again. On the return journey wc inii^l.t look out more particularh- for quaint scenes in the bazaars through w hich we pass. l-A en the sign boards over the little open stall will amuse us. " .\ clever astrologer " (Plate (12), words of no small import to the i he astrologer people of this neighbourhood whose hoioscopes are cast at birth and whose every subsequent step in lif<' depends on or at least is inlluenced by the i-ounsel of the astiologer. If a journey has to be taken the time of starting must be fixed bv the astrologer. If a house is to be built the foundation stone must be laid in accordance with his advice. He decides the auspicious moment f(^r e\'erything, e\cn for the lirst sha\e, whether it be of bab\'s head or xoung man's beard. The ordinary no less than the important events of life are deter- mined through the medium of astrology. However much of an imposture we may consider this art to be, there is no doubt of its immense iniluence upon the Sinhakse people, and that the less educated amongst them beliew in it imi)licitl\'. The open character of the natix'c shops is univi'rsal; thev Hic banMr var\- onl\ in the classes of goods thev have for sale. Here there are liiiils, euri\ stulTs, dried lish, spices (Plates 5S and 59), market baskets and earthenware chatties. In another (Plate (H)) wc notice baskets ol lowls which here are kept ali\c, and not as in the poulterers' shops ol luirope. 'Iherc we observe a nati\e niedii ul ^-lall (Plate 05) dignilied bv tlic high-sounding title ol " .Mi die ,il II. ill." The tin-shop, with Till': HOOK ()!• CI-:N L()\ How to see Colombo The imtivt bazaars A pleasant drive tlu' tinsmith at work (I'latc O^J is ubifjuitous. The bootmaker (Plate ()i) is patiently sticking- to his last, manulacturinf^ the latest creations in foot-wear upon the floor of his unfurnished den. In other shops are seen all manner of vegetables and fruits, native manufactures in brass ware, the gay comboys or cloths worn 1)\- the people and various useful articles made from the cocoanut and other palms. The customers are almost as varied as the w^ares. The Sinhalese man of sienna complexion, wearing his long hair gathered up into a knot surmounted by a comb of tortoiseshell, is attired in garb varying with caste, even the comb assuming different forms in accordance with social position. The .Sinhalese women too ha\c a multitude of distinctions in dress and ornaments. All indulge more or less in jewellery, consisting of necklaces and bangles on both arms and ankles and rings on their fingers and toes. Many Tamil women wear but a single coloured cloth, which they gracefully entwine about their limbs, leaving the rig-ht side bare to the hip. The costumes of the native men are even more diverse. The Moormen with shaven heads, crowned with curiously plaited brimless hats ; the Parsees in still more curious headgear; the Tamils with religious symbols on their foreheads ; the Afghans contrasting with the Tamils in superabundance of gaudy attire — such are the races, and such the dresses of the groups of people we see in the streets of Colombo. Our next business is a drive through pleasant places where we shall see something of native life amidst the exquisite scenery with which this most beautiful of tropical cities entrances the traveller of aesthetic temperament. Our choice in the matter of conveyance lies between the jinrickshaw and the horse carriage, victoria or waggonette of somewhat in- different quality to be hired in Colombo. If our choice falls upon the former, a rubber-tyred 'rickshaw should be chosen, if the latter a waggonette is preferable as offering less obstruc- tion to view. It is advisable to obtain cither through the hotel attendant, and to give him sufficient notice to enable him to secure the best procurable. A licensed guide* may be of service, but he must be required to adhere to the route marked out, and he should be allowed only to answer questions and act where necessary as interpreter. We drive through Prince and Queen Streets which are by this time familiar to us and onwards to Galle Face. Upon leaving the Fort we notice first the military barracks on our left, built on the foundation of the old wall of the Dutch Fort and fronted by a spacious parade ground. It will be seen that of the five handsome blocks four are placed en ccJieJon so that each may receive the full * For regulations respecting guides refer lo Index. 66. NATIVES WATCHING CRICKET ON GALLE FACE. 67 GALLE FACE. 54 I III': IU)()K Ol' (■l':\L()\ How to see hcndit of ih • st a brcc/c. Xouhfrc in the l^ast is 'rommy Colombo Atkins more luxuriously housed than here. I he i'Airopean "garrison ol the eolom has lor maii\ \ears comprised a regi- ment ol Inlantiy, Renal (iarrison Artillery, Royal Engineers, .\rm\ Ser\ ice Corps, Ordnance and R^oyal Army Medical (Orjjs; hut with the advent of a new Government changes are h.ing effected, and no delinite information that can be given licic is lil\ 57 at every turn the eye is met l)y a fresh picture, and a new How to see subject is presented to the mind every moment. Colombo Those who, Hke the author, were acquainted with Ceylon upwards of thirty years ago can best appreciate the change which has taken place in its hotel accommodation. The Galle Face Hotel of those days was a mere shanty compared to its present successor. Its bedrooms were merely divisions marked off by canvas screens. The remarks of occupants of several rooms on either side of one could be distinctly heard. Xow the guests in the i(( upatioii <>\ Colombo one ol' tlu'ir chief rcscrxcs iiiulci- ( iilti\ alion ol that precious spii (■. Hut lor the last hali-ci'ntur\- the hushos have been last dis- appearini; in laxour of the beautiful bungalows and j^ardens which make the locality one of the most charminj^ residential spots concei\ablc, the envy and admiration of visitors from tile southern colonics. Before we leave the \'ictoria Park we The Gardens shall perhaps feel inclined to stroll throui^h the i^ardens (Plate loj), to which we sliall iiiul scxcral conxcnient entrances. Here we may wand;r under the shade of palms and ligs or rest beneath clumps of i,»-raceful bamboo surrounded by blos- soms and perfumes of the most enchanting- kind. The huge puri)le bells of the thunbergia creep over the archways, and gorgeous passionflowers, orchids, pitcher plants, bright-leaved caladiums and multitudes of other tropical plants everywhere flourish and abound. Both here and in the neighbouring grounds of the museum will be noticed the curious fan-shaped traveller's tree {Urania speciosa) often wrongly described as a palm. Its long broad leaves collect water, which filters into the (^lose-set sheaths at the base of the leaves, whence by simply piercing them with a knife the traveller can draw streams of pure water. The surface of the soil in the Cinnamon Gardens consists of white sand, beneath which is a stratum of nourishing soil. It is this subsoil which supports the roots of the plants, and produces such luxuriance of vegetation ; the traveller, however, is often much surprised and puzzled to see such abundance of magnificent trees and plants apparently nourished onl\- bv white sand. Eye Hospital The \'ictoria Memorial Eye Hospital (Plate 90) will not escape notice. Its striking appearance in garb of yellow and terra-cotta will arrest the attention of the stranger, who will for a moment be struck with the novelty of the design, which is the work of Mr. E. Skinner, whose art is highly appreciated in Ceylon. This beneficent institution is the memorial of the people of Ceylon to the memory of the late Queen \'ictoria whom they always held in the highest reverence and affection and whose death brought together in common sorrow the most remarkable gathering of people of numerous nationalities and creeds ever witnessed in Ceylon, when the sad event was announced bv Sir West Ridgeway to the assembled twenty thousand or more who reverently made their way to Galle Face to hear His Excellency's touching panegvric. Ladv Ridgcwav, who was much beloved in Ceylon, was the author of the proposal that this hospital should be founded as the pco])lc's memorial; the project was warmly taken up at once 89. MOHAMMEDAN MOSQUE. 90. THE VICTORIA MEMORIAL EYE HOSPITAL. 91. THE PRINCES CLUB. 92. GREGORYS RADIENT. THE HOOK OI" CICVLOX 65 and especially appro\ id oi b\' Sir Allan Perry and the whole How to see medical department over wiiich he presides. The tirenier Colombo Memorial Eye and Ear Infirmary erected by subscription in memory of the late Sir Samuel (irenier, .\ttorney-(leneral, forms a department of this hos])it;tl. Amonj^st the other fine buildings of this vicinity is the Prince's Club (Plate 91), a lavishly appointed ICuropean institu- tion and a great joy to its members who li\e in the neigh- bourhood. The greatest charm to many a visitor is the drive, whic-h cinllamin'' can be extended to ten miles or so, along the many parallel Gardens roads, cross roads and crescents to the west and south of the Victoria Park. These roads are named to commemorate the various British Governors : the Earl of Guildford, Sir Robert Brownrigg, Sir Edward Barnes, Sir Robert W'ilmot Horton, the Right Hon. Stewart Mackenzie, Sir Henry Ward, Sir Charles MacCarthy, Lord Rosmead, Sir William Gregory, Sir James Longden and Sir Arthur Havelock. If we take them in order from the Prince's Club we drive along Guildford Crescent, turn at Gregory's Radient, then take the cross road at the end and return to the Circular Drive by way of Horton Place. Next down Barnes Place and back again by Rosmead Place and so on. A glance at our map will be a suilicient guide. The traveller will be greatly impressed by the excel- lent condition of the roads; not only are they as smooth as the pro\erbial billiard table, but their colour so restful to the eye is in charming contrast to the irrepressible greenery by which they are bordered on every hand. Although the cinnamon bushes which once were the pre- dominant feature of the district have for the most part given way to the garden compounds of bungalows, the stranger will not fail to see many still flourishing, and will probably gather a branch which, freshly broken, will emit the pleasant odour of the spice. Our plates 92 and 112 faithfullv (l(])ict the character ol tluse liungalows roads which will afford the xisitor a botanical feast. The houses, so different from those of colder countries, quite innocent of dirty chimne\- stacks and lire grates, are quite in accord with the charm of their surroundings. l*!ach residence nestU's in a paradise of palms and llowcring shrubs of infinite \ariety, gorgeous crotons and cixepcrs innumerable, the latter over- growing roofs and pillars and climbing the neighbouring trees, which they bespangle with their lovely blossoms. Words cannot describe these places nor can the best of pictures which modern art can produce gi\c the colour, the glamour and the atmosphere which help to creati- the sensation which makes the trawller feel how sweet and iilca^anl it must he to h\'o 66 THI': IU)()K OF CEYLON. How to see Colombo Domestic Economy Birds in this paradise of warmth and loveliness; how perfect these bungalows with their pretty compounds seem for a life of dolce jar iiicnte. Can this be the same place of which Tennent sixty years ago wrote, " The present aspect of the Cinnamon Gardens produces a feeling of disappointment and melan- choly "? At that time the district was forsaken and neglected. In Europe a beautiful landscape is often shorn of its loveli- ness by the growth of a town; but in Ceylon, with its wealth of rapidly growing flora of every tropical species, the growth of a residential settlement transforms the luxuriant jungle into the more beautiful avenues and cultivated gardens. Moreover, the same improving influence is extended to the reduction of insect pests that are wont to be very troublesome in uncul- tivated places. We do not now at night light fires on the lawn to attract flies from the interior of the bungalow, nor are mosquitoes in dread profusion and beyond control. The domestic economy of the European resident is some- what expensive ; but for his money he gets more luxury than for the same amount could be obtained in England. The servants for a small family occupying one of the bungalows which we illustrate would average twelve in number : the appoo or butler, the cook and his mate, the kitchen cooly, the bed- room and dressing boy, the house cooly, the ayah, the punka cooly, the gardener, the horse-keeper or chauft'eur and the dog boy. The sum of wages will amount to about £io a month, the servants providing their own food. The rent of the bungalow will be about £^2>- Housekeeping expenses depend upon so many circumstances that we need only say on the whole the cost of food is about the same as in England. The normal home life of the European differs greatly from the habits of the West. He rises with the sun, the time of whose appearance throughout the year varies only between half-past five and six o'clock. Recreation precedes business and takes the form of riding, tennis, golf and the prosecution of various hobbies and pursuits, such as botanical or natural history studies, for which such unrivalled facilities are afforded. The middle hours of the day are given to indoor business and the evening again to recreations, which include hockey, football and cricket. The conditions are delightful enough, but being perennial become monotonous. There are no seasons ; no change of scene or temperature; and it is just this " too much of a good thing " that makes the European long for a change to the Old Country, where the opposite conditions soon rekindle his taste for the sunnier clime, and hearing " the East a-callin' " he obeys with alacrity. Whilst driving through the Cinnamon Gardens manv prettily coloured birds are met with, and amongst the hobbies m i /i|ll^.: ^>. V'-'^-A ^^^nr:.:! 93-100. BUNGALOWS OF COLOMBO. 101. A MODERN BUNGALOW. 102. THE GARDENS. VICTORIA PARK, THK HOOK OI" Ci:VL()\ Tx) of the residents few are more faseinatinj^ than that of the How to see amateur ornithologist, or as he calls himself "the bird ^"'"'"•'o watcher." The feathered denizens are interesting to manv 'iiuHnU travellers, and with a view to answering their frequent ques- tion " What bird was that? " the following notes are here introduced, and y)rinted in smaller type so that those who take no interest in birds can easily pass them over.* One of the commonest birds is porhaps the Madras Hulbul (Molpaslcs hcciiiorrJwus). It associates in pairs, and can be recognised by thf black tuft of feathers on its head (from which it takes its Sinhaleso name, '■ Konde Kurulla," Konde moaning chignon, and Kurulla bird), its smoky-brown body, and the red under-tail coverts. It has a curitjus medley of notes, which are not Ly any means unmusical, but they are so precipitately uttered that one wonders at first if the bird really meant it ! The White-browed Hush Bulbul [Fycnonotus luteolus), or Cinnamon Thrush, has a similar set of notes, only more varied and prolonged. This thrush is, however, not seen very much, owing to its preference for dense trees, its rapid flight, and its dark olive-brcnvn colour. It has a conspicuous white e3-cbrow, as its name denotes, and one cannot go very far without hearing its note. Quite a different tune has the little Tora [Tifhia zeylotica). His pretty, clear, and flute-like notes are often heard. He is a dandy little fellow in his habits and dress of yellow and black, the latter colour being replaced by green in his mate, and he may often be seen in a variety of positions searching for insects and grubs in the trees. Another small bird — the smallest we have, but, for all that, responsible for the spread of several species of mistletoe, by which manv valuable fruit trees are ruined — mz-y only make its appearance known by its sharp note, which sounds something like " tchik, tchik." It is an ashv-olive- coloured bird with lighter under-parts, and is known as Tickell's Flower- pecker [Diccciim crythrorhynchus'). We then come to the sunbirds, which from their plumage command attention. There are three very much alike at first sight : Loten's Sun- bird (Arachnechthra lotenia), named after a Dutch Governor of Ceylon who first recorded it, which is larger than the next two and has a bright plumage of metallic green glossed with lilac, and brown wings. The second is the Purple Sunbird (A. asiafica), which is similar in plumage, but is smaller. There can be no difficulty in distinguishing between these two, as the larger bird has a proportionately larger and more curved beak. The third of these beautiful creatures is the Ceylonese Sunbird (.'1. ceylanica), which is about the same in size and plumage as .1. astiiliia, but it has a yellow breast and under-parts. The females in all three cases are clad in a sombre greenish-brown. All three have long curved beaks, that in Loten's Sunbird being the longest, which nature has provided for the extraction of nectar from the flowers. There are few more beautiful sights than one of the birds " humming " over the topmost fl(jwers of the Suriah-trees when seen through a pair of powerful glasses. The low-country Whiteye ('/.oslcro f^s ccylnnrusis) is a small and pretty bird, which can be recognised by the white patch of feathr-rs round the eye. It is olive-green in colour, with yellowish under-parts. This bird has a wide range on the adjoining continent. A slightly different bird (Z. cry/ one list's) is very fri(]Uent!y seen in the gardens in N'nwara Mliya, and is peculiar to Ceylon. * The author is indebted for the notes on birds in this volume to his nephew, Mr. ^\^^Uer .\shby Cave. 70 THK BOOK OF CEYLON How to see Amongst the topmost branches of the taller trees you may see a bird Colombo about th(? size of a sparrow, with blackish-grey upper-parts and a fine red breast; it is the little Minivft [I'ericrocotus fcre^rimis). He is usually lie liuds accompanied by four or five females, all arrayed in much more sombre dress. He is a migratory bird, and spends the winter months with us. The Green Bee-eater [Mero-ps viridis) is a fairly common bird, espe- cially in the dry zone, and may often be seen sitting on the telegraph wires or on a conspicuous branch, preferably a bare one. It has the two middle feathers in its tail longer than the others, a curved beak, and pretty, bright-green plumage. You will be better able to distinguish him by the graceful evolutions he makes in catching insects. He darts out from his perch, sails in the most graceful of curves, secures his prey, and then returns to his perch. There is a similar migratory bird which is often seen, the Blue-tailed Bee-eater (Mero-ps -philliffinus), but he is much larger, and has the central tail feathers prolonged like the other. His habits are similar to the smaller bird, and his plumage is a bronze green. Mention must next be made of the Common Drongo [Dicrurus ater), or King Crow, for his flight is like that of the Bee-eaters, but even more graceful. It is worth stopping to watch a party of two or three Drongos darting out after insects. They, too, perform in the most wonderful way in flight, turning this way and that in an extraordinar}' manner. In appearance the King Crow is a glossy black all over, about the size of a starling, and has a forked tail. There is another bird very much like him, except for whitish under-parts — the White-bellied Drongo [Dicrurus C(zrulesccns), an indigenous species. Both birds have similar habits. The Ceylon Black Drongo [Dissenuirus copJiorhinus), although seen at times, cannot be classed as a common bird. It is chiefly confined to the wet forests of the western half of Ceylon, replacing the large Racquet- tailed Drongo (Pisseniunis faradiseus) of the dry country. One of the noisiest of birds is the Indian Koel [Eudynamys honorata), whose note, " Ku-il," or " Who-be-j'ou? " is uttered during the nesting season, which lasts from March until July. The Koel is a Cuckoo, and has the characteristic flight ; were it not for this, and its longer tail, it would be difficult to distinguish, as its plumage is black, like that of the crow. The hen bird is, however, different, having a dress of mottled brown and white. Like the common Cuckoo, the Koel alters his note in May and June, but in a different way. Beginning on the usual note, he gradually goes up a scale until he finally reaches a very high and almost unformable note. It is unlike Ciiciiliis canorus in its selection of a nest for the deposition of its eggs, for it prefers the nest of the crow to those of smaller birds, probably because of the striking likeness of the eggs of both species. We have probably met with, ere this, a ver}' dowdy, common-looking bird feeding with several others of his species at the side of the road. His plumage is a dusty-brown colour, his beak and legs a pale yellow, making up a somewhat unattractive specimen. We have, however, said the worst about him, lor whatever we may add must be to his credit. He is known as the Common Babbler [Argya canda/ii), and is justified in his name, for he and his party do a vast amount of babbling. You will generally see six or seven together, and from this they get one of their many other names — the Seven Brothers. He is also known as the Dust or Dirt Bird, but he honestly does not deserve the epithet, for although his appearance is against him he is a happy fi-llow, most sociable and amiable to his friends, sharing his finds with them, and keeping on good terms generally. \Mien disturbed he will fl}' away very indolently to a tree close by, followed by his mates one after the other, and then will ensue such a volume of talk as to the reason of the disturbance. 103. HORTON PLACE. 104. HORTON PLACe. 105. GREGORYS RADIENT. lOG. GENERAL HOSPITAL. 4 IM ^ BP-- -,=^=^5^^;;^ ^-.j ^* '•mir^ .; J 107. KOCH r.1E'.10FllAL TOWEH 100. FLOWER ROAO. no. FLOwin ROAO. m. ADAM'S PEAK FROM THE COLOMBO GOLF LINKS. 112. NORTON PLACE, THI-: IU)()K OF Ci:VL()\ 7- If you hear a noise of someone or something which seems to be in the Hou to see worst of tempers, you may be sure the sound emanates from the Drown Colombo Shrike (Lanius crislalus). It is easy to trace him, for he gives vent to his feelings, on some conspicuous bough, by uttering a harsh rattling note '' ''"^''^ and moving his tail about much in the same way as a cat does when angry. In appearance he is a miniature hawk, his plumage is a soft reddish brown, and his dark eyebrow very conspicuous. The family is, of c(jurse, one of the butcher-birds, and the querulous note is one of the first we hear of the migrants which come to us in October for the winter. With a harsh rasping .scream, a bird of most exquisite plumage will wing his wa\' across an open space. You cannot mistake him ; he is the \Vhite-breasted Kingfisher {Halcyon smyrm-risis), and in his dress he excels in the beauty of his colouring all the feathered tribe that we shall meet with in this short drive. You may now hear a plaintive little crv, starting on a high note and running down a scale ; the Kingfisher is perched on the topmost bough of some tall tree, and it is only then that we can see and appreciate his glorious plumage. His back is a gorgeous shining blue, the under-parts a dark chestnut ; his waistcoat is always pure white, and his long beak a very dark crimson. The \Yhite-breasted Kingfisher is a very common bird, being well distributed over the whole of the low country. A kindred species, but smaller, is the little Indian Kingfisher (Alcedo ispida), which is almost as beautiful in plumage, but lacks the white breast. Dr. J3owdler Sharpe considers the Indian bird to be in.separable from the well-known British species. It is not, however, a very common bird, except in the interior of the country and perhaps near the quieter waters of the lake, but it deserves mention. Sometimes the note seems far away, and at fathers it sounds quite close, a monotonous '" wok-wok-wok,'' repeated for long spells, and then altered to double-quick time, as though the bird were impatient at something. When once it has been suggested that it is the Coppersmith, or Crimson- breasted Harbet {Xantholoeiua hcrmatoce-phala), the sound cannot be mis- taken, for the note is exactly an imitation of a man hammering a copper vessel. In its way the Coppersmith is no mean ventriloquist, for as it utters its note it moves its head from side to side, and the sound seems to come from several directions. If a bird is observed, one cannot say positively that the note is being uttered by it, for the '" wok-wok " generally seems to come from another tree. That, however, is a trick of the Coppersmith. It is a difficult bird to see, for its plumage is green, like the foliage, but its head and breast are smothered in colours, like a painter's palette — j'ellow, red, blue, and crimson are all mixed up in a wonderful way. On a hot day, driving through the lesser populated outskirts of Colombo, one cannot but be struck by the monotonous repetition of a note that sounds like '"koturr, koturr, koturr,"' steadily repeated. This is the cry of the orange-headed Cnen Harbet (Cyanofs fa-iifrons). So per- fectly does the colouring of this handsome bird assimilate with its leafy environment that it is not an easy matter to "spot" this moderately large bird, that, from the monotony of its note, has been included among many of our " brain-fever birds." Like the last, but a much larger and coarsely-coloured bird, is the common Indian C.reen Harbet (Thereiccryx ziloniciis], generally distri- buted in the low country of Ceylon. It is usually to be found in numbers when the banyan trees are in fruit, and can be recognised without difficultv by its brown-speckled head and neck, and large, pale orange-coloured bill. One of the most beautiful birds we have in the Cinnamon Cardens is the Hlack-headed Oriole (Oriolus vielanocefhalus), or Manco Hird. as his plumage resembles the colour of that particular fruit. He wears a The birds 74 THE BOOK OF CEYLON How to see dress of beautiful yellow and black ; you cannot mistake him, only you Colombo should always be on the look-out for the black head, as there is another species, very rare in Colombo, we believe, which has a golden-yellow head. The Orioles are great fruit-eaters, and are more often seen in March or Aj)ril when the fruit season commences. Of the ^Iunias we can really only put one on our list of common birds of Colombo ; although perhaps others may be seen, I have looked in vain for them. The Spotted Munia (IJroloncha fiinctulata) is the one most often seen ; it is a little bird, slightly smaller than a sparrow, and of the same family. The upper-parts of the plumage are dull chocolate in colour, and the under-parts white with brownish spots forming transverse bars. The Munias are the silliest birds imaginable. You may see one on the ground amongst some dead rushes ; he picks up one about si.x times his own size, and flies with it in a bee-line to his nest, which may be in course of construction. Anyone can find a Munia's nest; it is a clumsy affair, put together in a flimsy way, and big enough to hold several families, which, indeed, some of them often do. The Indian Roller [Coracias indica) scarcely deserves mention here, but it may be seen, and so perhaps a short description is necessary. In size and appearance it resembles the jay, but the markings are more varied. Dark and light blues will be noticed in vivid contrast, whilst the under-parts are a light chestnut. He is also known as " the smoke bird," as he is said to be often attracted to the vicinity of a fire. The Indian Pitta [Pitta brachynra) deserves mention, but it is not a common bird. Its other name is the Painted Thrush, on account of the variety of beautiful colours in its plumage. The wings are black, with greenish and turquoise blue and a white band, the chin and throat white, the upper-parts green " washed with brown," there is turquoise blue in the tail, whilst the under-parts are fawn. The under-tail coverts are scarlet. It is a migratory bird, and arrives in considerable numbers, but being shy and possessed of weak powers of flight, it seeks the denser shrubs and trees, and is therefore not often seen, although its note is sometimes heard. Its native name of " Avichchia " is taken from its cry, which is usually heard at about sunset or just at dusk. Of the Flycatchers we may possibly see two kinds. The commonest is the little Southern Brown Flycatcher [Alsconax latirostris)^ which is merely a small brown bird, and cannot be described more fully. You will probably notice it perched on a twig of some tall tree, but you cannot tell that it is a Flycatcher until you have noticed it darting out for insects and returning to its perch. The other bird is the Paradise Flycatcher (Terfsifhotic faradisi). It is about the size of a lark ; the head is metallic bluish-black, with a tuft of feathers, and in the first year the male is dressed in rich chestnut. As time goes on, the lateral tail feathers begin to lengthen until they reach a great length, and are cast after a few months. In the fourth year the plumage, with the exception of the head, changes completely to white, the long tail feathers being assumed again. The native name for the Paradise Flycatcher means Cotton Thief, for the long feathers streaming out behind as it flies give an idea of cotton being carried. As we drive round the race-course we can generally be sure of seeing the Madras Rush Lark [Mirajra affinis). It is just a lark, but may be distinguished by its pretty habit of throwing itself up into the air to a height of about thirty feet and descending with its wings arched. This performance is repeated time after time, as the lark gradually makes its way down the course. Here, too, companies of swallows may be seen sitting on the wires of the starting-gates, or flying about in the character- istic way over the grass. During the winter of 1906-7 a flock of seven Black-sided Lapwings (Chettusia grcgaria) took up its quarters on the INKS. 114 THE RIDGEWAY GOLF LINKS. 1 ~"i||| iwmn ■ II' iilLlllillll! 115. THE HAVEL'JCK (:-l( COURSE. 116. THE GRAND STAND. 117. THE COLOIVIBO GOLF CLUB PAVILION. THE HOOK Ol" Cl-:\LOX 77 race-course, and was frequently seen, but it is by no means common here How to sec The fact, however, is worthy of record. Colombo The Common Grass or Rufous l-an-lail Warbkr [Cislicola cursilaiis) frequents the grass fields all round Colombo, and is equall)' common at Nuwara I'Uiya. It is another small brown bird distinguished by its spasmodic flight, which ccjnsists of series of jerks, during each one of which it utters a sharp " tchik." The Havelock Race-course, like so many other things in vve Race-course Ceylon, is second to none in the East. Its position to the sotith of the Victoria Park will be seen in our map. Here the Colombo Turi Club has its regular race meetings. Ciymkhanas and other sports are also held here at \arious intervals under the auspices of the Polo Club, whose ground is the open space inside the course. Plate 116 depicts the grand stand and lawn enclosure. For many years a race-course was included in the manifold uses to which Gallc Face was applied, when the Colombo Club served as a grand stand. The present improxed arrangements are due to the initiative of Captain Channer, R. X. The Ridgcway Ciolf Links are reached by driving to the lUc Coij i.mki end of Horton Place. The course is extensive, complete and well laid out. The greens will be found very fast but generally excellent. Some idea of the pavilion and the course will be gathered from plates 113, 114 and 117. 'ihe game is im- mensely popular in Colombo, and pla\- is good. The member- ship of the club exceeds three hundred. Visitors are welcome and their verdict usually is that golf is a very pleasant game to play in the tropics. Various medical institutions are situated in the neighbour- //ouropean population and wealth and the expansion of other institutions it is somewhat discreditable that a fine Cathedral has not been erected ere now in a more central position. From the tower of the Cathedral a good view of the harbour may be obtained, but more interesting still is the curious sight of the thousands of acres of palms which, when looked at from this loftN- eminence, seem to completely bury the city beneath tluir multitudinous crowns of gigantic waving fronds. The sul)urb of Mutwall has been to some extent robbed of its beaut\- b\- the great encroachment of harbour works and fortifications, but beyond these it is more beautiful and inter- esting than anv other part of the coast near Colomix). it is cb.icllx inlia1)itatr(l h\- fishers, who are mosll\ i\onian ("atliolics, a sui\i\al ol the Portuguese occupation; e\ ick'nl testimony of tliis is seen in tlie numerous Roman Catholic Churches as we dri\e along the Modara Road. .St. James' Church is particularK- wortln- of our attention. .\ short distance beyond this church the noble Kelani River rolls into the Indian Ocean. Near the mouth is the most picturesque bit of coast near Colombo. The cocoanut groxcs which fringe the shore cast their shadows upon a little \illage of fishers' huts, sc-attered irregularly amongst a luxuriant undergrowth ol ( urious {grasses and red-fiowered convoKuli. 82 THF, HOOK OI'" CKVI.OX How to see 'riicrr is an island here very close to the shore whir h w ill Colombo ,n,| cscai^e notice. The noisv chorus of the Colombo (row CroK' ishuui will arrest our attention. It is his home and is kntjwn as Crow Island, whence he, de|)arts in his thousands at l)reak of day to foraf^e around the whole city and whither he returns at nis^ht to roost. He bears a character which has been notic ed by every author who has written about Ceylon. He is to be seen in every place where food, ^ood or bad, can be found. I'nlikc his species in ICuropc he is utterly devoid of all timidity. Coronc l<"or sheer impudence and cool daring' he stands unrivalled in impuduns ^^^^ feathery tribe. He will appear in your presence at the dining table when least expected, and fly off with a choice morsel ; he w'ill swoop down and take biscuit or fruit from a child's hand unoffcred ; he will enter your bedroom window and rob you of the toast and butter brought in with your early cup of tea, and he is so quick in his movements that he will catch in his beak any food you may throw out of the window before it can reach the ground. My first acquaintance with him created a lasting impression upon me. It was at St. Thomas' College which, as w'e have seen, is in this vicinity. At my first tiffin in the college hall, a lofty building with roof supported by pillars, surrounded by a verandah and open to the garden on all sides, it was the custom to keep a Sinhalese bov with a rifle on his shoulder patrolling around the verandah during meals to keep off the crows, a gun being the only known thing- for which the Colombo crow has any respect. In this he seems to share the instinct of his species everywhere. Rejoicing in the distinctive scientific title of Corone splendcus , he is the most impudent, rascally, raucous-voiced, grey-necked thief known to humanity. Corone inipucUens some authorities appropriatelv label him. After this somewhat scathing con- demnation which the crow deserves w'e must admit that he is entitled to a good word, for he is the most useful bird to be found in Ceylon. His usefulness lies in his ability as a scavenger, a vocation which, being a dirty feeder, he prose- cutes to the advantage of the whole community. The shores of Mutwall present many charming pictures at eventide. When the fishing canoes are drawn up on the land (Plate 130), their huge square sails stretched out and drying in the breeze, and the afterglow throws a soft orange light upon the objects along the shore, the scene is most enchanting. Fishing from the rocks is indulged in by little naked Sinhalese children with rod, line and hook, but without bait ; and very curious it is to watch them skilfully hooking fish in this manner as thev rise in shoals near the surface of the water. Upon returning from Mutwall we can vary our route by 130. SINHALESE FISHING CANOES. 131. ST. JOHN STREET. PETTAH. Z'R*? t 132. THE SINHALESE COMB MANUFACTURER. 133. THE BARBER. THE HOOK OF CKVLOX 85 keeping- to the roads bordcrin"- on the coast; but when St. How to see John Street in the Pettah is reached (I'late 131) it will be worth ^^u'ombo while to drive through it and watch the avocations of the natives, and the numerous races of people represented in the crowds through which we pass. Perhaps there is nothing in Sinhalese customs that strikes To>id fide frcjm a passenger or to The kuiluavs Break of journey Children Female servants and nurses i laitiitni; without ticket Excess farts Extension of tickets Sf'cciii! to ins to f\a>ties of tiaiellers Telegrams I of) rill'; liooK oi- ci':\'L()N The Railways a passenger travelling by train. The urgent rates are as follows : — First eight words or group of three figures, -^ cents; each additional word f>r group of three figures, lo cents. The free address includes the names of the officc-s from and to which the t(>legram is to be despatched, the name of the sender, and name and address of the addressee. No charge will be made for the delivery of telegrams addressed to hotels and resthouses within a cjuarter of a mile of a station, or for those addressed to the railway refreshment cars, refreshment rooms at stations, and the refreshment car office at Colombo. Upon all other telegrams a charge of ^o cents for delivery within five miles of a station must be prepaid. Though every effort will be made to ensure quick despatch and correct delivery, the railway will not be responsible for delay or non-delivery. Any person requiring to send a telegram relative to parcels, luggage, &c., such as requests for re-addressing, &c., will be charged 50 cents for such telegram, and a further sum of 25 cents if a reply is required. Should it be found that the telegram was necessitated by the fault of any member of the railway staff, the amount paid will be refunded. Passengers who may have left articles on the station premises or in the carriage in which they have travelled, and who wish inquiries made by wire, will be required to pay 25 cents for telegram of inquiry and 25 cents for reply. If, however, the articles lost were booked and placed on the van, inquiry will be made by wire without charge. Only safety breech-loading cartridges may be despatched by passenger train, and they are charged for at ordinary prepaid parcels rates, pro- vided they are packed in a box, barrel, or case of wood, metal, or other solid material of such strength that it will not become defective or un- secured whilst being conveyed. The rates and regulations for the conveyance of horses, carriages, motor vehicles, parcels, and petrol by passenger train, may be obtained on application to any slationmaster. Small animals, such as cats, puppies, mongooses, monkeys, mousedeer, ike, and poultry and other kinds are only carried in strongly-made square crates or hampers, and they are charged for by weight at parcels rates. Dogs in crates, cases, or hampers will be charged for by weight at parcels rates : when in dog-locker, 25 cents each for every 25 miles or part of 25 miles. Dogs for conveyance in the dog-locker must be provided with chain and leather or metal collar in good order, unless a letter of indemnity is furnished. No person is allowed to take a dog into a passenger carriage except with the consent of the stationmaster at the starting station and the con- currence of his fellow-passengers, and then only on prepayment of double rate for each dog. The acceptance of a dog at the double rate for carriage with the owner is subject to the condition that it shall be removed if subsequently objected to, no refund being given. The railway will not be responsible for the loss of or injury to any dog which may escape either in consequence of its becoming unmanageable, slipping its collar, or by the breakage of the chain or collar by which it is secured. Bicycles Bicycles (not packed), other than motor bicycles, when sent as parcels or carried as passenger luggage, will be conveyed at owner's risk at i cent per mile over the Main, Coast, and branch lines below Nawalapitiya, and 2 cents per mile over the Main line and branches above Nawalapitiya. Minimum charge, n, cents. The railway will not undertake to convey the following articles as A mmunition Horses, car- riages, motor vehicles, parcels, and petrol Small animals and poultry Dogs THE BOOK OF CEVLOX parcels, viz. : — Gunpowder, firpworks, vitriol, aquafortis, turpentine, matches, mineral oils or acids, or any other combustibles or dangerous materials. Any person contravening this regulation will be liable to prosecution under the Railway Ordinances. The charge for insurance of articles conveyed by passenger train (which must be prepaid) is i per cent, on the value (minimum charge, R. i), to be declared in writing at the time of booking. Statiop.masters are authorised to accept insurance rate on packages valued at less than Rs. 500. For articles valued at or above that sum, application for insurance is to be made to the general manager, Colombo. Cheques or other orders for payment of money are not accepted unless authorised by the general manager. Information regarding the conveyance of articles at goods rates may be obtained on application to any stationmaster or to the general manager, traffic superintendent, or goods agent, Colombo. The railway will not be responsible for information given by others than the principal officers in charge of the different stations, of whom inquiries should always be made, or of the general manager, traffic super- intendent, or district superintendents. Passengers aie requested to report direct to the general manager, traffic superintendent, or district superintendent any instance of incivility, want of attention or misconduct on the part of persons employed on the railway. Complaints should embody the name and address of the complainant. Railway servants are forbidden to ask for or receive from the public any fee or gratuity. The Railways ComiuitibU and dangerous arlicUi Insurance Cheques, etc. Goods Inquities Incivility Gratuities LIST OF STATIONS OX THE CEYLOX GOVERXMEXT RAILWAY . MAIN LINE (Bro.ad GAfGE). Mileage from Colomlio. Height Above Sea Level. Mileage from Colombo. Height .4 hove Sea Leiel. m. c. Feet. m. c. Feet. Colombo (terminus) Gampola 78 25 1572 Colombo (Maradana riapanc 82 75 1846 Junction for Coast Nawalapitiya 87 29 1013 and Kclani Valley Galboda 94 38 25S1 Lines) . 7.7 ir, Watawala . 100 13 3259 Kclaniya 3 40 14 Rozrllc 103 63 3742 Hunupitlya 5 42 II llatton 108 16 4M» Ragama 9 00 13 Kolagala . I II 35 4065 HonaratRoda 16 50 36 Talawakcle 115 f'5 3932 V'cyanRoda 2Z 54 61 Watagoda . i;o 4400 Mirinama . 30 54 ir,4 Nanuoya (Junction for Ambopussa 34 45 182 Nuwara Eliya and Allawa 40 24 100 Uda Pussellawa I'olRaliawcIa (Junction Lines) . 128 f. .S20I for Nortliirn Line) 45 34 244 Ambawela . 137 8 6064 Rambukkana .S2 II 200 Patti|X5la . '39 6 6224 Kaducannawa f>5 00 ifiiJO Oliiya 143 33 5902 Pcradoniya (Junction Haputale . 153 43 4765 for Kandy and Diyatalawa. 156 76 4367 Matalc Line) 70 46 1553 Bandarawila 160 58 4036 loS IIIl': IU)()K ()1- CI-INLOX The Railways MATALE LINE (Bkoad Gaucie). COAST LINE (Buoad Gauge) Mileage Height from Above Sea Peradcniya Level. Junction. in. C. Foot. Peradcniya (New) 40 1572 Kandy 3 70 1602 Mahaiyawa 4 71 1726 Katugastota . 7 25 1534 Wattcgama . II 33 1620 Ukuwda • 17 52 I2fJ2 Matale . 21 9 1208 UDAPUSSELLAWA LINE (Narrow Gauge). Mileage Height from Above Sea Nanuoya Level. Junclion. m. c. Fcft. Nuwara Eliya . 6 45 6198 Kandapola . 12 33 6316 Brookside . . 16 45 4981 Ragalla . 19 17 5818 NORTHERN LINE (Broad Gauge). Mileage ] from Polgahawcla Junction. Potuhera Kurunogala VVcUawa Gancwatta . Maho Ambanpola . Galgamuwa Talawa Anuradhapura Madawachchi Vavuniya . Mankulam . Paranthan . Elephant Pass (h Pallai. Kodikamam Chavakachcheri Navatkuli . J affna Chunakam . Kankesanturai place 53 m. 7 13 15 19 18 26 39 40 3 47 21 53 40 ''I 75 81 21 97 31 III 77 140 21 163 6 ) 169 41 176 54 185 77 190 41 195 71 200 24 206 14 211 18 Pet tall Fort . Slave Island KoUupitiya. Bambalapitlya Wellawatta. Dehiwala . Mount Lavinia Angulana . Lnnawa Moratuwa . Panadure . W'adduw.a . Kalutara, Xortli Kalutara, Soiilli Katukurunda Paiyagala, North Paiyagala, South Maggona Beruwala . .4Iutgama (for Bentot: Induruwa . Kosgoda Balapitiya . Ainbalangoda Hikkaduwa Dodanduwa Gintota Galle . Taipe Ahangama W'eligama . Kamburugamuwa Matara KELANI VALLEY LINE (Narrow Gauge) Mileage from Colombo (Maradana Junction). m c. I 6 I 45 2 24 3 25 4 45 5 70 7 44 8 20 II 22 12 5 13 7 17 51 21 37 26 6 27 28 29 8 31 16 31 75 33 10 35 7 38 28 41 54 45 29 49 63 52 62 60 14 64 13 68 28 71 68 78 23 84 24 89 58 95 4 98 36 Cotta Road Xugcgoda . Pannipitiya Homagama . Padukka Waga. Kosgama Puwakpitiya Avisawella . Dchiowita . Karawanella Vatiantota Mileage from Colombo (Maradana Junction). m. c. 52 49 23 74 48 57 43 66 50 40 60 CEYLON GOVERNMENT RAILWAY. TFIF. r.OOK OF CEVLOX 109 i _«•'»£ 156. CROSSING THE RIVER AT BENTOTA. THE COAST LTX1<: ITIXERARY. The seaside railway from Colombo to Matara affords every facility for visiting- the villages and towns of the south coast, where Sinhalese life pure and simple can be seen to greater advantage than anywhere else in Ceylon. Here is to be found the purely Sinhalese section of the inhabitants of the island, a circumstance due to the fact that the lowlands of the south were not invaded by the Malabars, who in early times con- quered and held possession of the northern provinces for long periods, with the result of a considerable commixture of the Aryan and Dravidian races. The line begins at Maradana junction in the heart of Colombo, and the next four stations are also in Colombo, after which follow four iiioic which may i)e called suburban. I'pon lea\iiig Maradana juik lion the line follows the ijanUs of the lake for the first two miles, w li< n it passes under the Kolupitiya Road to the coast. At the end of the first mile we reach rill, Pr.TTAH (im. 6c.*). — This station serves the most densely populated portion of Colombo where the native trader chiefly dwells. It has the largest passenger business of the coast line. \ description of the locality which it serves has already been given in our account of Colombo. The next station is that of ♦ 1 ho distances of all stations from tho Mar.uLina Station at Coloiiil>o are indi- cated in miles and chains ; there being 80 chains in a mile. TIIK ROOK OF CFVLON Coast Line YiiE FoRT (ini. 45c.). — FVom llie platform of this station The Fort which \vc illustrate by our plate 157 there is a remarkably beautiful prospect. The lengthy and commodious platform forms a terrace before which stretches an enchanting;- fresh- water lake fringed with palms and plantains and covering- several hundred acres ; groups of bronze-tinted fig-urcs are wading- waist-deep near its banks; some are occupied in fishing-, others are enjoy ingf a swim ; and a yet greater number are engaged near the bank in the destructive, albeit cleansing, pursuits of the dhob}-. During the north-cast monsoon from October to May the distant mountain rang^es, centred by Adam's Peak, are frequently outlined against the sky, forming- the backg-round of a scene that always im.presses the visitor. This station is largely used by the clerks of the European mercantile firms and the g-overnment offices in the Fort who live in the suburbs and in the more distant towns and villag-es to the south of Colombo. It is also a most convenient starting- point for passeng-ers from the steamships and visitors at the Grand Oriental and Bristol hotels, who take trips to Mount Lavinia and the various places of interest farther south. Slave Island Slave ISLAND (2m. 24c.). — Slave Island station is situated near the southern end of Galle Face and is therefore most con- venient for the visitors of Galle Face Hotel. Near it a narrow channel joins that part of the lake which borders Galle Face to the larg-er stretch which reaches from Slave Island to Polwatte. The railway crosses the channel at the point illus- trated by our plate 158, and from the bridg:e we g-et the view in plate 159. It will be noticed that we are in pic- turesque surroundings already, and this condition will con- tinue for the whole ninety-eight miles of the line, increasing, if possible, in beauty, and never absent. We now pass beneath the Kollupitiya Road, and arrive upon the sea-beach just ]:)elow the Galle Face Hotel. Kollupitiya KoLLUPiTiVA (3m. 25c.). — Kollupitiya Station is situated just where Green Path and Turret Road converge and reach the main Galle Road ; and it is therefore most conveniently placed for residents round and about the Victoria Park and Cinnamon Gardens. It also serves the populous district of KoUupitiva itself, which contains more bungalows of the better class within a given space than any other portion of Colombo. Many Europeans who prefer residences quite close to the sea live here, as do a large number of the burgher and native com- munities. The main road is somewhat squalid here and there with bazaars and various detached boutiques, but always beau- tiful by reason of the flora in which the squalor is embowered. l^p^ ^ I^^^^^^^^Bj ' ^ SLAVE ISLAND BRIDGE. 159. FROM SLAVE ISLAND BRIOOE. leO. THE COAST LINE AT WILLAWATTA 161. ALFRED HOUSE, BAMBALAPITIYA. AfaM -i^y^ _ ^j| ^ P-* 162. BAMBALAPITIYA. 163. WELLAWATTA. thp: book of ckvi.ox 113 Bambalai'ITIVA (4m. 45c.). — Banibalapiliya is a suburb of Coa.st Line Colombo with characteristics somewhat similar to Kollupitiya, BamhaiupUiya but less densely populated, and therefore more desirable as a residential neis^hbourhood. Near the station are many exten- sive and luxurious bung^alows, notably the residence of Lady de wSoysa (Plate i()i), the widow of the late Mr. Charles de Soysa, the g-reatest landowner in Ceylon, and one of its greatest philanthropists. In this bungfalow Mr. de Soysa entertained H.R.H. the Duke of Kdinburi,'^h at a g"reat banquet on the occasion of His Royal Hig-hness's visit in 1870. Every visitor is delighted with Bambalapitiya. The landscape varies little, but is never wearisome ; the naturalist is enchanted by the abundance of interesting^ objects at every turn ; while to the enthusiastic botanist the hig^hway, densely bordered on either side with an inexhaustible variety of leaf and blossom, is a treasury unsurpassed in any other country. The brown thatched huts, the g'roups of g"aily-clad natives, animals, birds - all these add life to a scene that baffles description, (jarlands of creepers festooned from tree to tree; hug^e banyans stretching' in archways completely over the road, with the stems all over- grown by ferns, orchids, and other parasitic plants ; here and there a blaze of the flame-coloured g-loriosa, g^olden orchids, various kinds of orang-e and lemon trees covered with frag^rant blossoms, climbing- lilies, an underg^rowth of exquisite ferns of infinite variety, all crowned by slender palms of ninety or a hundred feet in height — all these defy description. A tree will be noticed in our illustration (Plate iOj) with Cotton trees lateral branches thrown out in groups of three, some feet apart, and bearing a large crop of pods on otherwise bare branches. This is the cotton tree, called by the Sinhalese Katu-Imbul. It may be seen on this road in three stages : first, it becomes loaded with crimson blossoms before any leaves appear ; then, the leaves develop ; and afterwards it bears pods as seen in the picture. When ripe, the cotton bursts from the pod, and where the trees are uncultivated it strews the road ; but where culti- vation is carried on, it is collected from the pods, and the fibre, being too short for spinning, is used for various purpo.ses locallv, and is also exported to some exUnt lor stulling mattresses. Havelock Town, a suburb that has recently sprung up and //.i:,/.-.* /cvn possesses some very nice bungalows and a park of six acres, is served by Bambalapitiya station. This neighbourhood has recently gained much by the erection of the Church of St. Paul (Plate 1(13). It is a centre of very enthusiastic- Church of I-'ngland mission work, under the care and direction of the Reverend J. C. Ford. Visitors who have any fancy for seeing the spinning and I 114 THIC HOOK OI" CK^'LOX Coast Line VVellawatta Dehiwala Fishing indusfiy \\(a\in^ of cotton by the Sinhak-sc should look in at the Mills close to lla\cl()ck '{"own. Ik-rc there are 600 hands employed in the manufacture of cloths of various kinds. It is an interesting sig-ht, and as the trifling- fee of ten cents is charj^cd at the g'ate, the visitor can look around with the com- fortable feelings that he is not there by favour or sufferance. Wei.lawatta (5m. 70c.). — Our illustration (Plate 165) will fjive a good idea of the stations in the suburbs of Colombo. It will be noticed that they border the sea very closely ; but it must be borne in mind that there are no considerable tides to reckon with, the sea rising- only to an extent almost imperceptible. The roug-h seas of the south-west monsoon, however, have not to be lost sig-ht of, as they sometimes treat these stations more roughly than is good for them. The scenery around W'ellawatta is notable for the prettv landscapes observable from the railway bridges. Examples are given in our plates 160 and i(\^. Dehiwala (7m. 44c.). — Dehiwala, although in effect a suburb of Colombo containing some excellent bungalows, in reality retains its older character of a fishing village, and the visitor will find it a convenient and attractive place in which to observe some of the quaint operations of the fishing industry and the remarkable fish themselves, with their curious shapes and beautiful colours. The number of species caught amount to no less than six hundred. Of those which are edible the one most preferred is also the most plentiful — the Seer. In size and shape this fish somewhat resembles the salmon, but its flesh is white. In flavour it is by some thought to be superior to salmon ; but however this may be, it is certain that few people tire of Seer, although it is daily served at some meal throughout the year. Fish auctions take place each day upon the sands ; and very interesting are they to the visitor, not only as a study of native life, but as an exhibition of the strangest creatures brought forth from the deep. Among the most curious are the saw- fish. These are something like sharks in the body, but the head has attached to it a huge flat blade, with sharp teeth pro- jecting on either side. This frightful weapon in a full-grown fish of some twelve or fourteen feet long extends to about five feet in length. With it these monsters charge amongst shoals of smaller fish, slaying them right and left and devour- ing them at leisure. The saws are sold as curiosities and can generally be obtained in Colombo. The red fire-fish, some- times brought ashore, is of a remarkably brilliant hue. The sword-fish, the walking-fish with curious arms and legs, by 164. CHURCH OF ST. PAUL. MILAGRIYA. 165 WELLAWATTA STATION 166. THE COAST FROM DEHIWALA TO MOUNT LAVINIA. 167. BUDDHIST TEMPLE AT DEHWALA. THK IU)OK Ol- CHVLOX 117 means of which it crawls alonj^ the bottom of the sea, the dog-- ^"^st i.ine fish marked Hke a tiger, and various species of the ray arc frequently caught. Our plate i6() shows the coast from Dehiwala to Mount Dehiwaiu Lavinia. Here sea turtles of great size are frequently captured. When taken and turned over on to their backs their huge flappers hurl great quantities of saiui into the faces of their captors. Another attractive feature of Dcliiwala is the Buddhist lunuthht Temple. Although smaller than some others within a short ''"'•'■'^ distance from Colombo it is most accessible and the pleasantest to visit, owing to its being clean and well kept. The priests are very obliging and readily afford any information asked of them. Within are to be seen huge images of Buddha, Ijoth sitting and reclining. Mural paintings, of the crudest character, represent various legends, and especially set forth the various forms of punishment in store for those who disobey the Buddhist precepts. Before the images offerings of flowers are heaped ; including lotus blossoms, temple flowers, and the blossoms of the areca and cocoanut palms. Xo worshipper comes empty-handed ; and the fragrant perfume is sometimes almost overpowering. Near the Temple is a preaching-house, the interior of which is carved and highly decorated. The clever designs on the floor of the Temple, whicli the natives have worked in mosaics from broken pieces of I'higlish pottery, are particularly striking. MorxT I.AVixiA (8m. 70c.). — This station takes its name Mount from the handsome marine residence which Sir Edward Barnes '-'^'"i'' built here when Governor of Ceylon in 1824. It stands upon a rocky promontory washed by the waves on three sides and commands the finest view of coast scenery near Colombo ; "an edifice," wrote 'IVnncnt, "in every way worthy of the great man by whom it was erected. But in one of those paroxysms of economy which are sometimes not less successful than the ambition of the Sultan in the fa]:)le, in providing haunts for those birds that philosophise amidst ruins, the ediiice at Mount Lavinia had scarcely been completed at an expense of ^,30,000 when it was ordered to be dismantled, and the building was disposed of for less than the cost of the window frames." This once vice-regal villa long since became the Mount Lavinia (iiand Mold, and as such it has a woild-w idf reputation. It is a favourite rendezvous of ocean passengers, but its greater use- fulness is in the opportunities it presents to residents inland who from time to time need a change to sea air. At Mount Lavinia that desideratum is a\ailable under the pU-asanlest pos- sible (H)nditioiis. The i-eci-catioiis of s('a-l)athing, lishing, tennis ii8 rni': iu)()k oi- ci-:vlox Coast Line Bathiiif; at Mount I.avinia Railway facilities Road comcyancc Local products Mainifactures Education Sport ;m(l l)illi;ii(ls ;m'c nil ;il li;iiul, while the siluation is roin.-mtii- ;in(l picturesc|uc. Our illuslrMtions show tlie position of the liolel, the bathing- accommodation and the railway station. Bathers are undisturbed by the presence of sharks, as the reel and rocks ke.'p out these \oracious monsters and render the bathiuij- quite safe and enjoyable. The temperature of the water beinj^ about 85° F. the luxury can be induls^ed in ad libitum. Another boon to the inland resident who visits Mount Lavinia is the plentiful supply of fresh fish and the "fish tifhns " and "fish dinners " for which the hotel is noted. In our view of the raihvay station there will be noticed some barracks on the left which were until recently used as a sanitarium for troops ; but since the adoption of Diyatalawa for this purpose they have fallen into disuse. The railway station is equipped with a fully furnished ladies' waiting room, and two waiting halls provided with seats for the different classes of passengers. There are about twenty trains to Colombo on week-days and seven on Sundays. Besides the hotel the station serves the village of (ialkissa, which has a population of about 5,000. No horse carriages are available for hire ; but bullock hackeries can be obtained at rates of 50 cents a mile for Europeans and 25 cents for natives. Cocoanuts, cinnamon and native vegetables. Fish is the only commodity sent by rail. Lace, bamboo tats (shade blinds), bullock carts, curiosities and carved furniture are all manufactured in the village of Galkissa. The Church of England, Roman Catholics, Wesleyans and Buddhists all have small schools in the village. The Buddhists have several wihares (Buddhist temples), dewales (Hindu shrines attached to Buddhist temples) and pansalas (Buddhist monasteries). Snipe shooting can be had in season within a mile of the station. Angulana AxGi'LAXA (iim. 22c.). — Angulana is a village of about 1,000 inhabitants. Its local manufactures are limited to buttons and walking sticks. Cocoanuts, betel and cinnamon are its chief agricultural products. Its principal estate is the Kandapola Cinnamon Estate, which is illustrated by plate 174, the property of Lady de Soysa. The Anglicans, Wesleyans and Roman Catholics each have churches and schools in the village. The station is small and its business limited to passengers and the despatch of about ten tons of fish per week to Colombo. liATMINO HOUSE. 170. I HEADERS FROM THE ROCKS. 171. MOUNT LAVINIA STATION. ITS. RAILWAY DRIDQE. 173. THC OALU BOAO. NDAPOLA CINNAr.lON ESTAT SUNDAY SCHOOL. 79. CARPENTERS. ISO. PRINCE OF WALES COLLEGE. PRINCE OF WALES' COLLEGE THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 121 LuNAWA (12m. 5c.). — Lunawa is a village of about 1,800 *^oa*t i-""e inhabitants, almost entirely Sinhalese. The cocoanut is its i.unawa chief product of the soil, and its manufactures arc limited to furniture and general carpentry work. The main Colombo- Galle Road runs parallel with the railway at a distance of half a mile from the station. The Prince of Wales' College for boys, an extensive and successful institution founded by the munificence of the late Mr. C. H. de Soysa, is situated here. It is afTiliatcd to the Calcutta University, and has proved of immense benefit to the adjoining large and populous town of Moratuwa. Passengers will find a resthouse close to the station, where food can be obtained without any previous notice. Good buggy carts and hackeries drawn by single bulls can also be obtained by those who desire to explore the neighbourhood. Local accommoJatioit Moratuwa (13m. 7c.). — Moratuwa, which with its adjoin- Moratuwa ing village contains a population of 30,000, is an exceedingly picturesque town. Its inhabitants apply themselves chiefly to one calling — that of carpentry. The visitor who wishes for a glimpse of native life pure and simple may obtain it here amidst the pleasantest surroundings. The railway station is in the town and possesses a ladies' Raifutiy waiting-room in addition to the usual waiting-hall. There is ^'"^''"•" no refreshment-room ; but quite near the station is the Reliance Hotel where food can be obtained without previous arrange- ment, both for Europeans and natives. It has also sleeping accommodation to the extent of seven double bed-rooms. Horse c...i;o...uc^ carriages, buggy carts and hackeries can be readily obtained near the station. Particularly nice hackeries can be hired at \(r\ moderate rates, and are most convenient for visiting the \'arious interesting spots. The chief agricultural products are cocoanuts, cinnamon Local fro,luci and betel. A large quantity of arrack is distilled here, of which some 250 tons are sent off by rail during the course of the year. IMumbago mining is carried on to some extent in the neiglibourhood, and an average of about ten tons per niDnth is despatched by rail. The local manufactures, in addition to furniture of r\iry Manu/aciurts description, are carriages, tea-chests and lace. The tea-chests despatched by rail average about sixty tons a month. We have already noticed the splendid endowment of the />ij/i7m/i<>»« late Mr. C. H. de Soysa in the direction of education; wc shall now see in the town of Moratuwa further evidences of the philanthropy and large-minded generosity not only of himself but also of his ancestors and his descendants. Their public spirit is evident everywhere in the roads which they rill'; HOOK OI-" c■I■:^■Lox Coast Line Moialuwa The hackery A ttractions of Moratuwa have made- aiui llic public l)uilclini;s thcv have erected. Xot the least ot these are for the promotion of the reh^ious weUare of the inhabitants ; the beautiful church of Holy limmanuel which we ilUistrate (Plates 17O and 177), and the extensixe and handsome Sunda}- School (Plate 17S). There are also large Roman Catholic churches and schools as well as Wesleyan and Baptist. The .Sinhalese inhabitants are mostly Christians, but a considerable number of Buddhists have also their Wihares, of which the (iaui^arama is the chief one in the town. The hackery which we illustrate by plate 182 is the i,^enuine Moratuwa article and was photographed near the station. We disport ourselves in this, dangling our legs at the back as the driver dangles his in front. Our steed is a smooth- skinned little bull with a hump above his shoulders with which he draws the car by pressing against the cross-bar affixed to the shafts. His legs are slender, almost deer-like, and his pace is nearly equal to that of a pony. He is guided in driving by thin reins of rope, which are passed through the nostril. Bar- barous as it may seem to bore a hole through this sensitive part for such a purpose, it is doubtful whether he suffers more by this method than he would by any other that could be devised. The hackery is essentially' the carriage of the middle- class native. The whole turn-out may cost from jQi to £,7 or ;^'8, according to the age and quality of the bull and quality of the car. The upkeep amounts to little, while the cost of fodder is a very few shillings per month. So it will be evident that the hire to be paid by the passenger is not a ruinous sum ; but however little, it should be agreed upon at the start. 50 cents or 8d. an hour would be the approximate charge ; but there is no fare fixed by local ordinance in the out-stations and villages. However sporting the European visitor may feel he will be well advised not to try his hand at driving the bull, a proceeding which would certainly result in ignominious disaster. The useful little beasts are very obedient to the nati\e, whose voice they understand, but ha\e a great objection to being handled by the European. Upon turning from the station road" the bazaar with its gabled roofs illustrated by plate 183 will attract attention. Thence we should drive on to the toll- bar (Plate 184), and leaving our little car stroll on to the bridge which crosses the Panadure River (Plate 185). Here will be noticed many quaint scenes, not the least interesting being the manipulation of the extensive but frail-looking bamboo rafts used bv the natives for river traffic (Plate i8(ij. A drive along the Cialle-Colombo road in the direction of Lunawa will afford considerable interest (Plate 175), and afterwards a look around the various furniture factories, winding up the excursion 182. THE HACKERY. 183. MORATUWA OA.'; ■ection. His presence is always an occasion of great interest and amusement to the non-workers, and especially the children, who flock around him and wonder at the curiosity which he exhibits in their parents' occupations. Parties of Europeans not infrequently visit Moratuwa to be The lagoon entertained by the Carpenters, who upon short notice decorate one of their timber boats and place it at the disposal of the party. By this means the many interesting places on the banks of the great lagoon may be reached. The gentleness and courtesy of these people cannot be too highly spoken of, and their appearance quite accords with these qualities. vSlender frames, small hands and feet, pleas- ing features and light brown complexions are their common characteristics. The faces of the young Sinhalese women arc pleasing, their figures are remarkably good and well-propor- tioned, and their arms and hands are beautifully formed. An <;1(1 in.iid amongst them is almost unknown. They marry \cry early, and are often grandmot lurs at thirty. After that age they soon lose their graceful ligures, and although they are generally as long-lived as iunopeans, they lose their youth- lul appearance at an earlier age. \ large estuar\ , tniaffected by tides, which, as has been before remarked, are almost non-existing on this coast, pro- vides Moratuwa with its extensive and ornamental lagoon. Its 126 IIII-: HOOK ()!■ CKMX)X Coast Line Moialtiu'ii (-harm as a i)li'asure resort is all too little rec-oi^-niscd hv the residents of Colombo ; but that it is so used may be seen from our photographs (IMates 190 to 194). The b.st method (jf arrang-ing- a day's picnic is to make up a considerable party ; hire two of the lari^e tlat-bottomed boats, roofed with plaited fronds of the eoeoanut palm, as seen in our illustrations, the one for the party and the other for commissariat and attendants; to accompany these hire also a couple or more small out- rlfi^g-er canoes. With this equipment and the active g-oodwill and welcome of the whole native community in the vicinity no Henley under the brightest of summer skies could pro\ide a more delightful picnic. It will be observed that Moratuwa is within the region of cultivated cinnamon. In our peregrinations we shall have noticed large gardens of this renowned laurel, which still attracts cultivators even to an extent almost inducing over- production. Indeed the supply is so fully equal to the demand that the profit now obtainable by its cultivation is insufficient to attract the European investor. We cannot here afford space to trace the history of this interesting product from the time when Moses was commanded to take 250 shekels of cinnamon as part of the ingredients for the manufacture of holy anointing oil for consecration purposes. Where the cinnamon of Moses was grown is a matter of some doubt ; but the tree is regarded by the highest authorities as indigenous to Ceylon where the situation and climate are so exactly suited to it that none so fine and delicately aromatic has been found elsewhere. It has been referred to by many ancient classical writers and always re- garded as a greatly prized luxury — a gift for kings. In the markets of early times it can only have existed in small quan- tities, for we find the price paid in ancient Rome to have been the equivalent of ;^8 sterling per pound weight. Its cultiva- tion is not referred to, and there seems to have been an im- pression even so late as the middle of the seventeenth century that cinnamon was only good when allowed to grow in a wild state. The cinnamon of commerce flourishes only in a small portion of Ceylon, near the coast, from Negombo twenty miles north of Colombo to Matara at the extreme south of the island. Where it grows the air is moist, the rainfall copious and frequent, and the soil dry and sandy on the surface with a stratum of richer soil beneath. Some trees are found farther inland in the wooded valleys that intervene between the suc- cessive ridges of the Kandyan mountains, but they give a coarser bark with a strong flavour which is not appreciated. Cultivation has also been tri^d in the Kandyan country, but has not resulted in any measure of success. The Portuguese obtained their cinnamon bv enslaving the Chalias — a caste of 190-194. PICNIC PARTIES ON THE LAGOON AT MORATUWA. ' ' . ' ^i: '.rl." ^ ^ ^^Hi ^^^^^^^^^m ^^^^^^H ■■H^H^H ^■i^Hl^d wl^^^^^^l ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^1 ^^^^^^^^^^H ^^^^^^^^^^H ^^^HM *^j(hLy^*f' ^^^^^^H ^^^^H ^^^^H B^ • '''•'' 'nBfcr' ' r -f '^S^^l ^^^^^^^^^^1 ^^^^^^^H ^^^^^^^H B9 >* ' ' '^^ShBL' ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^1 ^^^^^^^^^^H ^^^^^^^^^^H >^: •;'.vV,.V;.-; ■ ■ j^ ^JJH ^H H ■■ i" '-^' ,,.: ^^ wi wm P 'S'^'-X. ■' ( «,*; ^ f' ''<*'^^|BI ^Km " y- > . H^h 's.W..-^ r- c ^'^^^^t 9^r -,7iiiiiffilllliiii •:- ^^■■■■■■MK •-V- " *V--J7laL>*-'V^i. -',i i/iiiuiiiiiinuiii 4 |HHHH|Hk' 4 wn\ iL' ■ jjifc ■3 Wt^j 1 ^A..'.-- , ^>.__ ".; • ^^^'f'fmfB'i WjdJjl ^■'#* -'^' ■''^^iJF*^ ^ ■' ■ '.^^^^S^^C * ^■'■-' ■'^' ^-- ?-^Jv*"/.-' ■-> • J ^^^^^^^^B ^ V -J, " ■ •■^".^■' V'-Ii - ' -' . '-'■ ^'im. 371'.). — W'adduwa is a village of about 3,000 inhabitants. It owes its name, said to be derived from u-akc, curve, and dinva, island, to the physical circumstance that it is surrounded by a narrow canal. The station, of which w'e give an illustration [Plate 200), deals only with passenger traffic. It is situated in the village, which is entirely em- bowered in palms. Its produce is cocoanuts, cinnamon and betel, and its manufactures, coir rope and matting, and to a small extent l^rass work and silver and gold jewellery. There is no special attraction or accommodation for visitors. The bridge The Kalii Ganga Kaiatara North (2()m. (ic.) and Kai.ltara Soitii (27m. 28c.). — Kalutara is a large town of considerable im- portance, in a beautiful situation at the mouth of the Kalu- ganga or Black River. It boasts of two railway stations which serve the north and south of the town respectively. One is on each side of the river, which is spanned by a magnificent iron bridge. This bridge is 1,200 feet long and is composed of spans of 100 feet. Both the Colombo-Cialle road and the railway are carried by this bridge. The entrance to it from Kalutara North, where road and rail converge, is shown by plate 201. The first half reaches an island in the middle of the river ^\•hich is shown in plate 202, and the second section depicted by plate 203 clears the remaining portion of the river and enters Kalutara South, the older and more important part of the town. From this bridge we get our view (Plate 204) showing the quaint boats consisting of two dug-outs joined by a plat- form or deck upon which is built a house with plaited fronds of the cocoanut palm. By means of these boats the native trades between Kalutara and Ratnapura, the city of gems, about fifty miles up-river. Perhaps this is the finest stretch rHANCE TO KALUTARA BRIDGE. 202. THE ISLAND BETWEEN THE FIRST AND SECOND SECTIONS Of THE nHlDGf. 4%!rt2tf *^ ■ i HH^^^^^^^StTt^ IT wM IB^ r - — - 203. KALUTARA BRIDGE. f^ U\Air.. ,». ._- ^- IBHHIE^^^^'^'^^^SdZZjf^ .jS^^^^^^^Bj^r 204. THE KALU GANGA THE BOOK OI- CEYLON 137 of river sctnery in Ceylon ; but the visitor who wishes to Coast Line explore it will drive to Ratnapura from Avisawela station on y,,-, ,^, the Kelani Valley line (twenty-six miles) or from Panadurc Ratnapura station on this line (forty-two miles) and sail down the river to Kalutara. To go up the river by boat is a long and weari- some business owing to the rapidity and volume of the stream. Both routes pass through scenery of indescribable loveliness. If the Panadure one is chosen the beautiful Bolgoda lake is crossed by a bridge soon after leaving the village. At the tenth mile Horana is reached. Here there is a good rest-house no>ana built amidst the ruins of an ancient Buddhist monastery and near a large and interesting temple which should receive a visit. A bronze candlestick, eight feet high, and of remark- able native workmanship, will be pointed out to the stranger. Nambapanne is reached at the twenty-eighth mile. Here x.n-.i.i'^.umc there is also a rest-house pleasantly situated. At the thirty- second mile we come to Kiri Ela and the road follows the general course of the river. At the fortieth mile, a couple of miles before Ratnapura, we shall find the Maha Saman Dewale, a Buddhist temple, which is the owner of a large extent of landed property. The relics enshrined in it are worth inspec- tion. We shall also notice in the courtyard a slab carved in bas-relief representing a Portuguese knight in armour killing a Sinhalese man whom he has trampled under his feet. For exquisite scenery many award the palm to Ratnapura. Cer- Ratnatura tain it is that no traveller can be disappointed ; for here are obtainable distant views of great sublimity in mountain walls clothed with forest rising thousands of feet in sheer per- pendicular; and in the nearer landscape well-watered valleys and undulating plains may be seen teeming with every form of tropical flora. Ratnapura is also the centre of the gemming Gam industry, which is entirely in native hands. Here the traveller can obtain an insight into the methods by which the hidden treasures of the earth are brought to light. Here under our feet lie the gems that will some day adorn future generations of the wealthy. The discovery of these precious stones is an unceasing source of considerable wealth. The gem-digger comes upon a sapphire with the possible result that a thousand pounds from the coffers of the Rajah in a distant land is transferred to the sum of wealth in Ce\lon, but such valuable finds are few and far between, (ienuine stones there are in abundance, but those that are flawless and of ajiproved tint are the prizes of the industry. The sail down from Ratnapura to Kalutara is a perfect IJ" K«t}* rhapsody of delight ; the shores are resplendent with colour RaiMpu'ra'to and beauty of trees and flowers ; now a temple lifts its head K^'-'^ra above the foliage ; now a village encompassed by groves of t3« Tin-: iu)()K ()!• (:i':\'LON Coast Line Attractions of Kiilutiiia Local accommodation Conveyances Sport Fruit Picturesque features tamarinds, jaks, talipcjls aiul kitool. Alont^ the l)aiiks on cither side wave the yellow slenis and feathery lea\(s ol the bamboos, while the broad and rippling stream bears us (jn its bosom in one lonj^- dream of lo\-eliness for the whole fifty miles of our journey. The enjoyment of the natural beauties of Kalutara is not spoilt by the presence of a teeming population. The well laid out and park-like appearance of the town as approached from the southern end of the bridge gives a pleasant first impres- sion, and one hears without surprise that the place has enjoyed a great reputation as a sanitarium from the time of the Dutch, by whom it was held in great esteem. The remains of the old fort (Plate 206) which they built upon a natural eminence at the mouth of the river are conspicuous as we leave the bridge. Upon this site now stands the new residence of the chief Government oflRcial of the district, and immediately below it are the Kachcheri or Government Offices (Plate 211). The Anglican Church of St. John (Plate 205) comes next into view ; it was built in 1876 and was the first new church consecrated by the present Metropolitan Bishop of Calcutta when Bishop of Colombo. A short distance farther on we find ourselves in the heart of the town, where the law courts are seen on the right and the police station on the left embowered in glorious foliage (Plate 207). A new rest-house of two storeys with every convenience and comfort for the traveller faces the sea and esplanade near the law courts. It has ample accommodation for six visitors — six bedrooms and six bath-rooms, in addition to a spacious dining-room and broad verandahs. Excellent catering will be found, no previous notice being required here. There are also five native hotels in the town. Carriages can be obtained at the rates of one rupee (is. 4d.) for the first hour and 25 cents (4d.) for each subsequent hour. The charge for long journeys in visiting distant tea and rubber estates is 50 cents (8d.) per mile. Bullock hackeries can be hired at the rate of 25 cents (4d.) per mile. Near the rest-house is Kalutara South railway station. Very good snipe-shooting can be had in the neighbourhood during the season November to February, particularly at Pana- pitya, about three miles distant. Kalutara is a good district for fruit, and as we proceed onwards through the town we shall not fail to notice the open stalls (Plate 210), laden w^th large supplies of mangosteens, mangoes, pineapples and rambuttans. The Dutch houses with their double verandahs (Plate 209) add decidedly to the picturesqueness of the roads, which reaches its highest development at Kalutara. Most charming is an inlet of the sea which washes the embankment of the railwav 7i^ 205. CHURCH OF ST JOHN. ;00. REMAINS OF DUTCH FORT. ■ ■ Pi ^1;^^ ^':^^ ^^E H| He-^'^i . '. r.,i^,>> • '^^ 207. ROAD SCENE IN KALUTARA. 200. View from teak bungalow ifii.:.fi^i«'^ JS''\I idi^ ■id "^1 IS 200. DUTCH HOUSE IN KALUTARA. ;iO. FRUIT BAZAAR. 213. BANYAN TREE. KALUTARA BASKET TREE. Ite 1 -iwau ■M»>-_- .] mmttfr:^ - -' THE TODDY DRAWER. THE ASCENT OF THE TODDY DRAWER. THE BOOK OF CEYLOX 141 as it leaves the town (Plate 221). The road and rail here run Coast Line alongside of each other. A short distance beyond the scene in our picture we come upon the curious and beautiful tree illustrated in plate 213, a fine old banyan {Ficus indica), which extends to a great height and has thrown an arch across the road. The upper portion harbours a mass of parasitic plants and ferns of exuberant growth, the whole forming a lofty rampart of vegetation from which depend the filaments and aerial roots of the parent tree in graceful and dainty tracery. Our plate shows only the lower portion of this wonderful tree. Wc now turn off the main road and dri\ e through the back streets, although that somewhat disparaging epithet is hardly suitable as applied to lanes where slender palms with sunlit crowns form a lofty canopy from which garlands hang in natural grace over every humble dwelling ; where even the palm-thatched roofs are often decorated by the spontaneous growth of the gorgeous climbing " Neyangalla " lily. In this fairyland we strike the note of human interest ; for here is Xonahamy seated at the entrance of her dwelling engaged in the gentle occupation of weaving the famous Kalutara baskets. Kaiutara These dainty little articles are made in numberless shapes and baskets sizes, and for a variety of useful purposes, from the betel case and cigar case to the larger receptacle for the odds and ends of madame's fancy work. Those of the ordinary rectangular sort are made in nests of twelve or more, fitted into one another for convenience in transport, and the visitor seldom comes away without a nest or two of these most useful and very moderately- priced articles. The process of manufacture is simple : chil- dren are sent out into the jungle to cut off the thin fibres from the fronds of the pahn illustrated in plate 214; these are split into narrow slips and fl\ed with vegetable dyes black. Yellow and red, and then wo\en bv the skilful fingers of girls. At Kalutara we are in the midst of another industry \\ hich Toddv and is of immense proportions and productive of a large amount of rc;venue — the distillation of arrack. We shall have noticed the apparent barrenness of the cocoanut trees in the extensi\e groves through which we have passed. This peculiarity is due not to the inability of the palms to produce fine fruit, but results from the somewhat unnatural culture, by which they are made to yield drink in place of food. Each tree extends beneath its crown of leaves a long and solid spathe in which aic cradltcl bunches ol i\'ory-like blossoms bearing the embryo nuts. When the branch is half shot, the toddy-drawer ascends the tree by the aid of a loop of fibre passed round his ankles, giving security to the grip of his feet, which owing to their innocence of shoes have retained all their primitive prehensile endowment, and proc-eeds to bind the spathe tiglitly in a 14; THE BOOK OF CEYLON Coast Line Todily and , attack Local products Plumbago b;iiul.it;c of ynuno- leaf; he then mercilessly belabours it with a bkuli^coii of hard wood, 'i'his assault is repeated daily for a week or more till the sap begins to appear. A portion of the llower-stalk is then cut off, with the result that the stump begins to bleed. The toddy-drawer now suspends beneath each maltreated blossom a small earthenware chattie or gourd to receive the juice. This liquor is toddy. Day by day he ascends the tree and pours the liquid from the chattie into a larger vessel which he carries suspended from his waist. In many groves of cocoanut palms there is a network of ropes reaching from tree to tree ; for our drawer is a funambulist of some skill, and even on a slack rope he will frequently make his way safely to the next tree; but not always. Sometimes he falls, and as the ropes are from sixty to ninety feet above the ground the result is always fatal. The number of such accidents recorded annually is upwards of three hundred. " Toddy " is probably a corruption of the Sanscrit tari, palm liquor; but doubtless a Scotsman is entitled to claim the credit of the application of the term in its European shape to the wine of his country. Toddy is in great favour amongst the natives as a beverage, and when taken at an early stage of its existence is said to be pleasant and wholesome ; but after fermentation has made progress it is intoxicating. Toddy may be regarded as the wine and arrack the brandy into which most of the former is distilled. If the visitor drives to Teak Bungalow, from the garden of which we get our view (Plate 208), he will see quite close to it an arrack-store that will create some little astonishment. It contains no fewer than twenty-seven casks of arrack, each containing five thousand gallons. These giant vats are of ordinarv barrel shape and were made by native coopers. The toddy and arrack rents and licences bring upwards of ;^30o,ooo annually to the revenue of the colony. During the afterglow that prevails for a few minutes be- tween sundown and complete darkness we may see thousands of so-called flying foxes coming south over the Kalu Ganga. They are realTv huge bats with reddish skins and wings that stretch four feet from tip to tip. The chief local products are cocoanuts, tea, rubber, paddy, betel, cinnamon, mangosteens and plumbago. There are about thirtv plumbago mines in the district turning out upwards of a thousand tons a year. There are also seventeen thousand acres of tea and upwards of four thousand acres of rubber. Although the plumbago mines are not a great attraction to the ordinary visitor, they are not without features of interest to those who care to inspect them. These mines, or pits as they are locally called, are for the most part worked in a primitive fashion. The quaintness of the methods adopted, 217. VILLAGE SCENE ON THE COLOMBO-OA . : .;OAD 218. THE MOMENTS BETWEEN SUNDOWN AND SUDDEN DARK. THE BOOK OF CEYLON 145 and the sight ul the inhieral itscli as it lies in its natural bed, ^oast Line will repay the curious lor their trouble. A wide vein of the I'lumhago mineral with its crystals radiating from various centres is a thing of considerable beauty. This useful mineral, known by the various names of plumbago, graphite and blacklead, is merely a form of carbon, and is found in various parts of the world, notably in Bavaria, the Ural Mountains, Mexico and Canada, but nowhere of such excellence and with its refractory qualities in such perfection as in Ceylon. For this reason the Ceylon article is in great demand for the manufacture of crucibles. Its uses in the manufacture of lead pencils and as a lubricator are perhaps more familiar. The export, principally /'s "s« to the United Kingdom and America, in the year 1906 amounted to about fifty thousand tons. The polish communicated by plumbago dust is so brilliant that the unclothed natives mo\ing amongst it acquire the appearance of animated figures of bright soriing steel. An interesting sight is that depicted in plate 219, where a large number of men and women are engaged in sorting and grading the mineral for shipment, carefully picking out all foreign substances. The industry gives employment to upwards of thirty thousand people, and being almost entirely in the hands of the natives, it has during the last twenty years, owing to the great extension of the use of metal-melting crucibles, brought very considerable wealth to the community ; in fact, the production is now exceeding ;^'i,ooo,ooo per annum. Evidence of this great increase of wealth amongst the natives of Ceylon wealth due is visible on every hand ; palatial residences being not the least '" P'"i"'ago of the signs of their prosperity. Wars and rumours of war greatly stimulate the plumbago market on account of the necessity for crucibles in the manufacture of munitions ; thus at the end of the nineteenth century the price almost doubled the average, reaching no less than p£.(i5 per ton. It is now (1907) ;^35 to ;£,^4o for the higher grades, the lower grades running from ;£^io to ;^.2^ per ton. Although the principal situation of mines are situated south of Colombo, from Kalutara to \Veli- ""^ """" gama, there are successful mines in the Kurunegala district of the North-Western Province and also in the Kegalle and Ratna- pura districts of the province of Sabaragamuwa ; but there are none in the northern or eastern divisions of the island. .Some of the larger mines are worked by the aid of machinery and reach a depth of some four to five hundred feet ; others are mere holes opened by villagers who have accidentally stumbled upon plumbago beneath the soil of their gardens or fields. No I'-uro[K'an could easily descend the shafts of the more primitive pits, which are provided merely with rough bamboo ladders tied with coir or jungle ropes, and xcrv slippery from tlie dust of the graphite. Tlic Ijarc-footcd natixc, however, with his K 146 THE BOOK OF CEYLON Coast Line basket suaiiiis u|) and down with no thought of difficulty or danger. The Cioveniinent levies on all plumbago shipped an export duty at the rate of five rupees per ton which yields, in the present condition of the industry, about ;£^io,ooo per annum to the revenue of the colony. Katukurimda Kaiikirinda (jejni. Sc). — Katukurunda is a \illage of ab(;ut J, 000 inhabitants who are accommodated by the railway with a passenger station. There is no rest-house or hotel. The <-ocoanut palm is the staple product, while the manufac- tures are limited to the spinning of coir }arn, and the fashion- ing of articles of brass-work. Paiyagaia Paiyac;ai,.'\ North (31m. i()c.) and Paiva(;ala Soltii (31m. 75c.). — Paiyagaia North is simply a passenger station without waiting-rooms and there is no other accommodation at or near it. Paiyagaia South is of greater importance and does a con- siderable business in goods as well as passengers. These stations serve a population of about 7,000, the inhabitants of a group of villages including Induruwegoda, Paleyangoda, Kachchagoda, Gabadagoda, Pothuwila, Parranikkigoda, Goma- ragoda, Pahalagoda, Mahagammedda and \'eragala. The names of the villages from which the stations take their names are Maha-Paiyagala to the south and Kuda-Paiyagala to the north. These villages are almost as picturesque as their names. The level crossing (Plate 224) where the Colombo-Galle road passes over the railway is a charming subject for the artist; and the avenues from the station both north and south (Plates 223 and 225) are especially beautiful and give a very good idea of the groves of palms in which these stations of the coast line nestle. Msitors to Paiyagaia should send on a servant to engage hackeries, which are not always in readiness here. They can however generally be obtained, the rate being 25 cents a mile. The Buddhist temple of \\'cragalakanda, a \\'ihare with Dagaba and Pansala, about a mile and a half distant, is situated on the top of a hill commanding exquisite views of the countrv around. Other temples in the vicinity are the Duwe Pansala and W'ihare, the temple of the late High Priest Indasabha, the founder of the Buddhist sect called Ramanna Nickaya; and the Gornarakande temple. Local products Cocoanuts, toddy, arrack, paddy, cinnamon and areca nuts are the chief products. Tea and rubber are also sent to this station from estates a few miles distant. Fishing is an important industry, and Paiyagaia South supplies Colombo with about five tons of fish a month. Some indication of the oc(^upation of the people may be gathered from a recital of the railwav freights, which average in a vear 210 tons of arrack, Railway scenery Conveyances Objects of interest 220. LITTLE LUXURIES FOR PASSERSBV. 223, PAIYAGALA SOUT ;4. pAiYAOALA cnossi»a DERUV/ALA Mt-Z!- 11^. BERUWALA BAY. 230. COAST NEAR BERUWALA. aa.. FISHING BOATS AT BERUWALA THE BOOK OF CEYLON 149 go tons of plumbago, 75 tons of timber, 40 tons of tea, 30 tons Coast Line of coperah, 50 tons of areca nuts and 10 tons of coir yarn. There is also a considerable trade in cabook stone for build- ing purposes. Maggona (33m. loc). — Maggona is a village of about '^^"ffKona 3,500 inhabitants, mostly of the fisher caste. It affords no special attractions or accommodation for visitors. The Roman Catholics have made it a mission station of considerable im- portance, where they have a large reformatory as well as industrial and other schools. Beruwala (35m. 7c.). — Beruwala, or Barberyn as it is Beruwaia often called, is situated upon one of the most picturesque bits of coast in Ceylon. Its charming bay, always lined with quaint craft and busy with the operations of the fishermen (Plates 228 and 229), extends to a headland of considerable prominence, off which lies the island of Welmaduwa. Here will be seen one of the Imperial lighthouses built in the form of a round tower of grey gneiss rock. The structure is 122 feet high and its light can be seen at a distance of nineteen miles. The traveller who wishes to see the beauties of the bay should make his way along the road shown in plate 232 and hire an outrigger canoe to visft the island. Should he be interested in the methods of fishing employed by the natives (Plate 228) this will prove an admirable place to watch their operations. The Beruwala bazaar (Plate 226) is a particularly lively one and ministers to a large population ; for the villages here are grouped rather densely together. W^e illustrate the railway station (Plate 227), which it will be noticed is laid out for both passengers and goods. We have now reached a part of the south-west coast where the inhabitants are less purely Sin- halese. The Moors about here form a considerable portion of the population and their ethnology may be of some interest to the stranger. The term Moor or Moorman in Ceylon properly indicates a native Mohammedan, although it is popularly sup- posed to mean an Indo-Arab. It has, however, been clearly shown by the Hon. Mr. Ramanathan that the name was first given by the Portuguese to those natives whom they found at Beruwala and other places professing the Mohammedan religion, and who were immigrant converts to that faith from Southern India. They were in fact Tamils. The same authority states that Ceylon Mohammedans generally admit Beruwala to be the first of all their settlements, dating frcmi about the year 1350. " They consisted largely of a rough-and- ready set of bold Tamil converts, determined to make them- selves comfortable by the methods usual among unscrupulous adventurers. Having clean-shaven heads and straggling I50 Till'; iu)()K oi" (■l•:^■LON Coast Line beards; wcariiii^ a costume wliicli was not wItoIK' I ainil, nor yvX Arabic or African c\cii in part; speaking- a low 'lamil interlarded with Arabic exprc-ssions ; .slaughtering- cattle with their own hands and eatino- them ; i;i\cn to predatory habits, and practising alter their own lasliion the rites of the M(jham- medan faith they must indeed have struck the vSinhalesc at first as a strange people deserving- of the epithet ' barbarians.' " Giving due weight to the cumulative evidence derived from a consideration of their social customs, physical features and lan- guage, it is considered that this large community in Ceylon, number- ing upwards of 200,000, are not of Arab but of Tamil descent.* This historical reference to the Moors interests us at this point, not only because the race still flourishes at its original settlement, but because as we proceed further south we shall also meet with them in increasing numbers. They are always keen traders and especially busy in the bazaars, where their little stores display a surprising variety of goods from Bir- mingham as well as those of local manufacture. Aiutgama Alutgama (38m. 28c.). — Alutgama station serves a popu- lous district. It will be seen from plate 235 that it has considerable accommodation both for goods and passengers, including a refreshment room. The products of the district despatched by rail arc considerable and include about 250 tons of plumbago, 75 tons of tea, 15 tons of coral lime and 25 tons of arrack monthly. We are, however, more interested in the Bcntota circumstancc that Alutgama is the station for Bentota, a village blest with such beautiful surroundings that it has always been in favour as a quiet honeymoon resort. The rest-house is one of the coolest on the coast ; it is spacious, salubrious and prettily situated on a point of the beach where the Bentota River forms its junction with the sea. The opportunities for quiet seclusion, a table w^ell supplied with all the luxuries of the province, including oysters, for which the place has a local renown, and the exquisite scener}' of the district attract many visitors. The crowded market and village bazaar which is seen in our plate is near the railway station. The road scenery is especially beautiful as may be gathered from plate 2^^^^, which shows how the bread-fruit trees here flourish amongst the palms. But the great attraction of the place to the visitor is the river, illustrated by plates 236 to 240. Boats may be hired quite close to the rest-house, which is situated near the railwav bridge seen in plate 237. It is best to engage a double- canoe with platform. On this deck comfortable seats, or even chairs, can be placed, and if an early start is made, before the * See "The Ethnology of the Moors of Ceylon " by the Hon. P. Ranianatban in the Joarnal of the CeylonRranch of the Koyal Asiatic Society. \'ol. X., No. 36, ;3D. ALUTGAMA STATION. 2J7. UtNTOTA KlVtH. 330. FISHING. 8ENT0TA RIVER. 34a riSHiNa ointota rivir. 241. ANCIENT DOOR-FRAME OF GRANITE. THE BOOK OF CEYLOX 153 sun's rays become very powerful, a trip of some three or four coast Line miles up the river will be found to be a delightful experience. j!^„t^ta nvct The banks are densely clothed with the most beautiful of tropical flora ; but there are also human objects of interest, and we shall not go far before we observe tawny little maidens with large black eyes wading near the banks. They appear to be intently gazing into the water, with their right hands ex- tended and motionless. Closer inspection shows that thev each have an ekel, which is a thin reed about three feet long like a bristle of whalebone ; at the end a noose is attached made from fibre of the plantain leaf. They are prawn fishing; and with the noose they tickle the feeler of the prawn, who whips round and is held near the eye. It is the prettiest and most dainty of the many curious methods of fishing in Cevlon. Another primitive way of taking fish is illustrated in plate 240. Here fishermen have laid their nets from place to place and are now engaged in frightening the fish into them bv means of long ropes fringed with leaves from the cocoanut tree. At night they lay some hundreds of yards of this rope along the bottom and early in the morning, from two canoes placed at a distance from one another, they haul it up, this causing the leaves to wave in the water and frighten the fish into the nets. Farther up the river will be noticed the fish kraals or traps (Plate 239). It is very amusing to watch the fishermen diving down into the traps and bringing up fish. Here is also the merchant who appears on the scene in his little outrigger to purchase the haul. We have before observed that the tide is so slight as hardlv to affect the height of the rivers, but nevertheless the water is rendered brackish for about two miles. Rentota lays claim to several of the most ancient Buddhist Wihares in Ceylon. One of these, the Galapata, is situated Aniujuitits on the south banks about three miles up the river, and should be visited by the tourist. It contains some interesting relics of early times, amongst them a stone door or window frame, said to date from the reign of King Dutthagamini, n.c. 161. The carved scrollwork upon it is the finest of the kind that I have met with. I found it lying upon the ground, and almost buried by ddhris of rough stones. With some diiTicultv most of them were removed, and T obtained the photograph (Plate 241). IxDiHi \\.\ (41m. 54c.). — This is the latest railway station induru»a opened on the coast line. It serves a population of about 3,000, who are mostly cultivators of cocoanuts, paddy, areca nuts, plantains, and cinnamon. There arc no special attrac-- tions for visitors. 154 THE ROOK OF CKYLOX ^""■''' '-'"*-■ KoscoDA (45111. j(jc.). At Kosooda wc alii^lit ujx)!! a Kosgoda i)l;itt()nii adorned with nowciiiii; slirulxs and plants oi bcautilui loliaiic. 'J'hc villaj^-c and its ncii^-hbourin^ hamlets contain a poptilalion of about iJ,ooo, spread over an area of thirty square miles. There is no special accommodation for travellers at or near the station, but at Urag'asmanhandiya, three and three-quarter miles inland, there is a Clovernment rest-house, where two bedrooms and food supplies may be found if previous notice is s^iven to the rest-house keeper. Hackeries, single and double bullock-carts, and horse carriages can be hired at Kosgoda. To the west of the \illage the land is charmingly undulated, and exhibits a beautiful panorama of hills interspersed with paddy fields. In this direction, at about the third mile, is Uragasmanhandiya, for some years the \'olunteer Camp of Exercise. The site was chosen by the late Colonel Clarke on account of its combined features of a suitable parade and training- ground and picturesque surroundings. There are many traces of ancient civilisation in the neigh- bourhood, among them the ruins of an ancient W'alauwa, dating from the year 1600, besides about a dozen other old W^alauwas. The present inhabitants are mostly Sinhalese and of the Salagama caste. Local products Cocoanuts, bread fruit, areca nuts, betel, pepper, cinna- mon, jak, citronella, and rubber are all cultivated here. Copra to the amount of about 250 tons, cinnamon 100 tons, coir yarn 200 tons, plumbago 60 tons, and arrack 40 tons per annum are despatched by rail. Manufactures The manufactures of Kosgoda include basket-making, lace, silver and brass work, knives, carts, skilfully carved furniture, bricks, earthenware, copra, cocoanut oil, coir yarn, coir ropes, various products from the kitul palm, ekel and coir brooms, citronella oil, cinnamon oil, and native medicines. From the above account it will be apparent that the visitor who desires acquaintance with Sinhalese life and pursuits in their most unsophisticated state should take advantage of the opportunities offered by Kosgoda. Baiapitiya Balapitiva (49m. 63c.). — The railway station of Balapiti\a serves a local population of about i,ooo. For the visitor staying at Bentota or Ambalangoda on account of sport or for the sake of beautiful scenery, it also provides facilities for exploring the shores and islands of the extensive lagoon that lies at its feet. This grand stretch of water, flanked by mountain scenery and dotted with a hundred islets, ranks verv high amongst the many natural l)eautics of the southern province. It is but three miles from Ambalangoda and eleven I SE CHILDREN, SOUTH-' 243. KOSGODA STATION. 244. BATHINO PLACE, AMBALANOOOA. 247. COAST AT AMBALANGODA. 248. COAST NEAR DODANDUWA THE BOOK OF CEVLOX 157 from Bentota, and, thanks to the railway, is so easy of access Coast Line that it should be visited by all tourists who stay at the rest- houses of those places. A.MI3ALANGODA (S-Hl. 62c.). — Ainbalangodu inxites the Ambalanjtoda European resident in Ceylon and the visitor alike as a pleasant seaside place where good accommodation and excellent food can be obtained, and where the rare luxury of bathing in the open sea can be enjoyed in perfect security. Our illustration (Plate 245) portrays the road that leads to the rest-house. This hostelry is one of the most comfortable of its kind and possesses eight bedrooms. The spacious enclosure surround- Sea bathing ing slopes to the coast, where a natural barrier of rocks at once protects the bather from the attacks of sharks and pre- vents him from being carried out to sea by dangerous currents. Our illustration (Plate 247) will give the reader some idea of the natural features of the bath and its surroundings. The visitor will find other attractions, too, at Ambalangoda, Local products which with the surrounding hamlets has a population of 25,000 people, engaged mostly in agricultural pursuits. Cocoanuts, tea, paddy, cinnamon and areca nuts are the chief products. The produce despatched by rail amounts to about 600 tons a month. There is a Maha Wihare (Plate 246) quite near the M^iha uihare railway station, which is worthy of attention. Some sport in snipe and teal is available from September to December upon the paddy fields, far inland, and near the village upon the beautiful lagoon about six hundred acres in extent. In the rest-house grounds may be seen a relic of the Dutch occupation of Ambalangoda. It was probably a court-house and might still do duty as such ; but nowadays the magisterial work of this district is carried on at Balapitiya. HiKKADiWA (60m. 14c.). — This station serves a popula- iiikkaduua tion of about 4,000, engaged in the cultivation of cocoanuts, areca nuts, tea, paddy and cinnamon ; and in the preparation of coral lime, plumbago mining, and the manufacture ot coir yarn, lace, drum frames, and metal bowls used by Buddhist monks. The despatch of products by rail amounts to upwards of 60 tons a month, most of which is plumbago and coral lime. DoDANDLWA (64m. i^c). — Dodanduwa is famous for its Dodanduwa plumbago and coir rope. It supplies annually about i,ooo tons of the former and 300 tons of the latter. It possesses an asset of natural beauty in Ratgama Lake, which is quite ilose to the station. In the fields bordering this lake snipe shooting is verv srood durintr the latter months of the vear. is8 TlWi HOOK Ol' ( i;\ LOX Coust Line (lintota Qalle Picturesque features About six miks west ol Doflaiuluua lies liaddcf^ama, I'cuowiK'd as the oldest mission station of the Hnj^-Hsh Church. The Church Missionary Society lias the honour of having- made the first elTort here, and the resuUs have been most encouragini;-. (liNTOiA (()Sm. jSc.). (iintota is a vilhige of about 2,500 inhabitants, most of whom are occupied in cocoanut planting and the manufacture of coir rope from the fibre of the cocoanut husk. Its interest to the visitor, however, centres in the lovely scenery of the Ginganga, which here flows into the sea. The source of this river is near Adam's Peak. In its course, which is fifty-nine miles long-, it drains no less than four hundred square miles of land. Galle (71m. 68c.). — Galle, the chief town of the Southern Province and seat of provincial government, claims consider- able attention, combining as it does a wealth of historical interest with great natural advantages. For upwards of a thousand years before Colombo assumed any degree of mer- cantile Importance, Galle was known to the eastern world as a famous emporium. The places hitherto visited by us have for the most part greatly changed in character during the last fifty years, and the descriptions of them by earlier writers would not hold good to-day. But this venerable port of the south is a striking exception, and the visitor will find very little at variance with Sir Emerson Tennent's account, published in the middle of the century. "No traveller fresh from Europe," says Tennent, "will ever part with the impression left by his first gaze upon tropical scenery as it is displayed in the bay and the wooded hills that encircle it ; for, although Galle is surpassed both in grandeur and beauty by places afterwards seen in the island, still the feeling of admiration and wonder called forth by its loveliness remains vivid and unimpaired. If, as is frequently the case, the ship approaches the land at daybreak, the view recalls, but in an intensified degree, the emotions excited in childhood by the slow rising of the curtain in a darkened theatre to disclose some magical triumph of the painter's fancy, in all the luxury of colouring and all the glory of light. The sea, blue as sapphire, breaks upon the fortified rocks which form the entrance to the harbour ; the headlands are bright with verdure ; and the yellow strand is shaded by palm trees that incline towards the sea, and bend their crowns above the water. The shore is gemmed with flowers, the hills behind are draped with forests of perennial green ; and far in the distance rises the zone of purple hills, above which towers the sacred mountain of Adam's Peak. THE BOOK OF Cm'LOX i6i " But the interest of the phue is not confined to the mere Coast Line loveliness of its scenery. Galle is by far the most venerable cuiu emporium of foreign trade now existing in the universe ; it was the resort of merchant ships at the earliest dawn of com- merce, and it is destined to be the centre to which will here- after converge all the rays of navigation, intersecting the Indian Ocean, and connecting the races of Europe and Asia." This prophecy, however, has been falsified by the rise of Colombo, whose artificial harbour has already enabled it to usurp the position marked out for its older ri\al. Tennent's account ot tlie commercial inii)(jrtance of Cialle Gatu in , • • c 1 • t i •• /■ 11 4.U • I' 1 u ' ancient tim:s \\\ earlv times is ot great interest : (jalle was the Kalah at which the Arabians in the reign of Haroun Alraschid met the junks of the Chinese, and brought back gems, silks, and spices from Serendib to Bassora. The Sabieans, centuries before, included Ceylon in the rich trade which they prosecuted with India, and Galle was probably the furthest point eastward ever reached by the Persians, by the Greeks of the Lower Empire, by the Romans, and by the Egyptian mariners of Berenice, under the Ptolemies. But an interest deeper still attaches to this portion of Ceylon, inasmuch as it seems more than probable that the long-sought locality of Tarshish may be found to be identical with that of Point de Galle. " A careful perusal of the Scripture narrative suggests the r.inhish conclusion that there were two places at least to which the Phfi'nicians traded, each of which bore the name of Tarshish : one to the north-west, whence they brought tin, iron, and lead; and another to the east, which supplied them with ivory and gold. Bochart was not the first who rejected the idea of the latter being situated at the mouth of Guadalquiver, and intimated that it must be sought for in the direction of India; but he was the first who conjectured that Ophir was Kou- dramalie, on the north-west of Ceylon, and that the Eastern Tarshish must have been somewhere in the vicinity of Cape Comorin. His geiural inference was correct and irresistible from the tenor of the sacred writings; but from want of topographical knowledge, Boihart was in error as to the actual localities, (iold is not to be found at Koudramalie ; and Comorin, being neither an island nor a place of trade, does not correspond to the requirements of Tarshish. Subsequent investigation has served to establish the (laim of Malacca to be the golden land of Solomon, and Tarshish, which lay in the track between the .Arabian Gulf and Ophir, is recognisable in the great emporium of Ceylon. The shi|)s intended for the voyage were built by Solomon at ' I^zion-gcbcr on the shores of the Red Sea,' the rowers coasted along the shores of Arabia and the Persian Gulf, headed by an east wind. I, 1 6. THK BOOK OI' (•I•;^■LON Coast Line Galle's identity with Tiuslush Galle in modern tiuies Galle' s /lourishing period Tarshish, the port for \\hi( h they were l^ound, would appear to have been situated in an island, governed by kings, and carrying on an extensive foreign trade. The voyage occupied three years in going and returning from the Red Sea, and the cargoes brought home to Ezion-geber consisted of gold and silver, ivory, apes, and peacocks. Guld could have been shipped at Cialle from the vessels which brought it from Ophir; silver spread into plates, which is particularised by Jeremiah as an export of Tarshish, is one of the substances on which the sacred books of the Singhalese are even now inscribed ; ivory is found in Ceylon, and must have been both abundant and full grown there before the discovery of gunpowder led to the wanton destruction of elephants ; apes are indigenous to the island, and peafoivl are found there in numbers. It is very remarkable, too, that the terms by which these articles are designated in the Hebrew Scriptures are identical with the Tamil names, by which some of them are called in Ceylon to the present day : thus tukeyim, which is rendered ' pea- cocks ' in one version, may be recognised in tokei, the modern name for these birds; kapi, 'apes,' is the same in both languages, and the Sanskrit ihhd, 'ivory,' is identical with the Tamil iham. "Thus by geographical position, by indigenous productions, and by the fact of its having been from time immemorial the resort of merchant ships from Egypt, Arabia, and Persia on the one side, and India, Java, and China on the other, Galle seems to present a combination of every particular essential to determine the problem so long undecided in biblical dia- lectics, and thus to present data for inferring its identity with the Tarshish of the sacred historians, the great eastern mart so long frequented by the ships of Tyre and Judea." In modern times Galle has been the mart first of Portugal and afterwards of Holland. The extensive fort constructed by the Dutch is still one of the chief features of the place and encloses the modern town. .Although dismantled, few portions of it have been destroyed, and the remains add greatly to the picturesque character of the landscape. Amongst a large number of interesting remains of the Dutch period are the gateway of the fortress, the present entrance from the harbour, and the Dutch church, both of which we illustrate. A steep and shady street known as Old Gate Street ascends to the principal part of the town. The most flourishing period of Galle during the British occupation was that immediately preceding the construction of the harbour at Colombo. Then Galle obtained a large share of the modern steamship trade. Its harbour was always regarded as dangerous, owing to the rocks and currents about 251. DUTCH GATEWAY AT GALLE. 252 THE ENGLISH CHURCH, GALLE. 253. THE DUTCH CHURCH, GALLE. Till': liooK oi" c"i:\LO.\ 165 the mouth; I)ut it was preferred to the open roadstead of ^oast Line Colombo, and the 1*. tK: O. and other important companies gritish occupation when Kaduwella was reached onl\- b\' strong and narrow passes, with the \(r\- steep banks of the ri\er to the left, and hills covered with dense jungle to the right, whiU' in front were breastworks which (-ould not be approached sa\c through deep and hollow defiles. Here in earlier davs the hostile Kandyans made a stand against the Dutch, cutting off four hundred of their troops, and the British, too, lost mam men near this spot before the natives were linalK' subjugated. 'riiere is a famous Ca\e-'remplc of ihe Huddhists at c\ne-Tciii(^u Kaduwella, \( i\- picturcscjuely situated under an enormous granite rock in the midst of magnilicent tices. It has a fine pillared hall, the bare rock forming the wall at the back. Tin- usual colossal image of lUiddha is car\cd in the solid granite, and is a i^ood specimen oi its class. i>eliind llie rem|)le a magnificent \ iew is to be obtained from the lop oi the cliff o\'er the liilK coLUitr\-. The jungle is thii kl\ inhabited b\ troops ol black monkews. Hocks ol green pairots, huge lizards resembling young crocodiles, and myriads of smaller creatures. Indeed, the zoologist, the botanist, and the artist need go no further for weeks. On the right bank of the rixcr, opposite Kaduwx'lla, is a maIwhim plate ol classical interest now know n as W'elgama, but anciently by the more jKxtic name of IMalwana. Three centuries or more ago it was the chosen sanitarium of I'ortuguese (io\ernors and high oiVicials, and was regarded as the most salubrious spot within their reach. Here they dwelt in princely palaces few trai-es of which remain. THE HOOK OK CKYI.ON Kclnni Valle} I'ottilY Hanwellu The liistoric rest-house River traffic Kivcr scenery TIic \ill;iL;('s upon tlic hanks of the ri\'cr arc lamous for their pottery. The visitor will he iiilercsted no less by the quaintness of the ware itself, tlian by the methods of its inanufaeture, which is carried on in open sheds by the wayside. The large village of Hanwella is reached at the twenty- hrst mile-post from Colombo. It was a place of considerable consequence in the days of the Kandyan kingdom, and possessed a fort commanding both by land and water the principal route which led from the interior of the island to Colombo. Here the last king of Kandy was defeated by Captain Pollock. Not far from this place was a palace erected for the use of the king when on this his final expedition, and in front of it were placed the stakes on which he intended to impale the captured British. Here many fierce battles were fought against the Kandyans, with the result of much signing of treaties and truces, which were seldom or never adhered to on the part of the natives. The rest-house, as at Kaduwella, commands a beautiful view of the river. Enchanting as every acre of this district is, the river views surpass all in their loveliness. Our views Nos. 264, 265 and 267 are taken from the grounds of the rest-house, which occupy the site of the old I-^ort built by the Portuguese about three centuries ago. The stone seats observable in our pictures bear inscriptions recording the visits of members of the British royal family. His Majesty the King was here in 1876. In 1870 Hanwella was visited by the Duke of Edinburgh, and in 1882 by Prince Victor and Prince George, now Prince of Wales. Trees planted by all the Princes wall be seen flourishing in the grounds. Perhaps the most striking feature to many a visitor is the extent of the river traffic carried on bv rafts and such boats as are seen in plates 266 and 286. It is interesting to note the variety of merchandise floating down stream in these curious craft, which includes pottery, building materials, cocoanuts, chests of tea, bamboos, timber trees, and all manner of produce and manufactures that find a market in Colombo, for the stream is swift and the water carriage cheap. Our plate 264 depicts the ferry below which the river takes a sharp bend towards the reach in plate 265. 'I he up-river view (Plate 267) is the finest, and is particularly beautiful in the early morning when the Adam's Peak range of mountains is visible in the background ; the broad silvery stream narrowing in distant perspective, the rich borders of foliage that clothe the lofty and receding banks, the foreground clad with verdure and flowers, and the blue haze of distant mountains over all make up a picture that does not easily fade from memory, but which no photograph can adequately represent. 266. A KELANI BARGE AT HANWELLA 267. VIEW FROM THE REST-HOUSE, HANWELLA LACE-MAKING AT NUGEGODA. 269. COTTA THE HOOK Ol" Ci:\I.()\ 185 270. NUGEGODA STATION KELAXI \'ALLEV LIM-: ITINERARY 'riiiC rail\\a\- ilincrar\- from Colombo to \'ati_\ aiitola bfj^ins al Keiani Valley Maradana juiittion. 'I'lic line upon leaving- Colombo traverses ^'"* the i^olf links and runs south until the lirst station, Nut^et^oda, is reached at the sixth niiU'. XrciccouA (5m. 5jr. ). Xui^cs^oda is in the (-entrc ot a NufreRoda cluster of well-populated villages of which tlic once I anions principality of Cotta is the chief. The road scenery in the neighbourhood is very charming- as may be gathered from our plate 2(k). Although Cotta was the scat of kings in the cotia fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, when the whole country was subdivided into petty states, there are no remains of historical interest to detain the visitor. The chief institutions in the district ai'c the missionar\ and edui ational establishments of the Churt-h Missionary So(icty, w hie h dale iVom the \ear iSiS. The manufactures consist ol ])ott(iy and pillow -lace, which the villagers may be seen making in the sliaa attractions to the visitor. It is a ])urely .Sinhalese \illage ol about eight hundred inliabil.inls, whose occupations chielly consist in the ( ultixalion ol the betel, cinnamon and oranges. 1 86 THE BOOK OF CEYLON Kelani Valley Line Homagama Areca palms Padukka Jak trees Homagama (15m. 23c.). — Homagama station serves a purely Sinhalese population engaged in agriculture. The chief pro- ducts are the palm, cinnamon, betel, areca nuts, cocoanut oil and garden vegetables. We shall here notice a distinct increase in the cultivation of the elegant areca-nut palms which form one of the noticeable features of the Kelani Valley. They adorn the jungle on all sides. A pleasing effect is pro- duced by the beautiful delicate stem, with its rich feathery crest, standing out from the surrounding foliage. The graceful bamboos, the huge waving fronds of the plantain, the shapely mango, covered with the bell-shaped blossoms of the Thun- bergia creeper, all seem to form a setting in which the elegant areca displays its beauties to the greatest possible advantage. The virtues of this tree, however, are not aesthetic only. It is very prolific in the production of nuts, which grow in clusters from the stem just beneath the crest of the palm. Previous to the development of the nuts the tree flowers, and diffuses a delightful fragrance all around. In size and appear- ance the nuts are not unlike the nutmeg, and are similarly enclosed in a husk. What becomes of them is easy to realise when it is considered that every man, woman, and child is addicted to the habit of betel-chewing, and that the areca- nut forms part of the compound used for this purpose ; added to this, there is an export trade in areca-nuts to the amount of about ;^75,ooo per annum. Padukka (21m. 74c.). — Padukka is a Sinhalese agricultural village of the same character as Homogama, with the additional feature of an excellent rest-house. The Jak trees in this dis- trict will attract the notice of the traveller by their stupendous growth and gigantic fruit. The Jak not only grows the largest of all edible fruits, but it bears it in prodigious quantity and In a peculiar fashion. It throws huge pods from the trunk and larger branches, and suspends them by a thick and short stalk. There are sometimes as many as eighty of these huge fruits upon one tree, some of them weighing as much as forty to fifty pounds. They are pale green in colour, with a granu- lated surface. Inside the rough skin is a soft yellow substance, and embedded in this are some kernels about the size of a walnut. This fruit often forms an ingredient in the native curries, but its flavour is disliked by Europeans. Elephants, however, are very fond of it, and its great size would seem to make it an appropriate form of food for these huge beasts. A much more extensive use of the Jak tree is the manufacture of furniture from its wood, which is of a yellowish colour turning to red when seasoned. It is harder than mahogany, which it somewhat resembles. 271. AREOA PALMS. 272. ARECA ADORNINO THE JUNOLE. 274. THE JAK TREE. I" III", iu)()K oi- ^I•:^•I.o^■ 1S9 Wac.a (27m. 4