THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES \ /' X, LAYS AND LETTERS FROM LINTON. EAST LOTHIAN A THREE-FOLD PICTURE— MOORLAND PLAIN AND SEA— Behold OH I Luthiun, Ihttn'd .so matclilesdy ; Her rocl-y Isles arid castellated shore — Tlie blue, waves fondliny them for evermore! The ivlilte-ivuii/d s]iips the sea-world couriers given, Circling around her likv the birds of heaven ; Her heathy moors, a tvaviiig background grand — Dark forests rolling to Iter happij strand ! Soft-contoiir d liills npspringiiig from Jie.r breast. Where labour struggles and is lulVd to rest, Crystalline streams sweet-habbling thro' her vales, Like wandering maidens singing true love tales — Her fields, her plains, and — smoking far and jiear, Herfreemoi's peasant homes — to peace and virtue dear.! S. M. LAYS AND LETTERS FROM LINTON. By SAMUEL MUCKLEBACKET (JAMES LUMSDEN). AuiJwr of ^'' Rural Rhymes," ^'Country Clir 01 deles," tfec. HADDINGTON; WILLIAM SINCLAIR, 63 MARKET STREET. Edinuuuuh : Joii.n Mknzies & Co. TO JAMES WATT, Esquire, PROVOST OF HADDINGTO N — THE author's NATIVE TOWN — THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED WITH MOST GRATEFUL FEELINGS, FOR ADVICE AND GREAT KINDNESS RECEIVED FROM HIM. S37763 PREFATORY NOTE. The little town of East Linton is finely situated in the valley of the Tyne, midway betwixt the western and eastern extremities of East Lothian, and about three and a half miles distant from the nearest point of its north-eastern sea-board. The southern portion of the town is divided from the other and larger part by the East Coast Line of the North British Railway ; and it is distant from Edinbm-gh 23, Glasgow 70, Berwick-on-Tweed 34, and London 372 miles, by rail. " Linton " — as its general and homely name is in East Lothian — has been a " Police Burgh " for many years, for it was one of the very earliest of the " wee toons" of Scotland which adopted the Lindsay Act. Con- sec^uently its municipal, and some other affairs are administered (and administered masterfully, too) by a full quorum of nine able-bodied, (and not too conspicuously consequential) Commis- sioners. This fine municipal body, when in full array, consists of the following indispensable members, namely, a Chief Magistrate (locally and fondly, " the Provost "), two senior Commissioners (the " Bailies "), a Town Clerk, a Treasurer, and three or four ordinary Commissioners, who are not in the cabinet. On the second Tuesday evening of every month these "most potent, "rave, and I'everend " gentlemen— or some of them — meet for the enactment of their occasionally very arduous public duties in the Free Church Hall — a conniiodious room enough, and fortunately, and appropiately, situated immediately under our highly-prized " Toon Clock " and its in.spiring bell. Having often had occa- sion to visit the hall, when burghal business was in full blast (if such an epithet can be used to indicate snoring), we can with some assurance declare that it would be positively difficult to VUl. 1- l: K I'' A T U K Y N U T IC. discoviM- ;i more decorous, ov a more dignified ;iiul devoted band of public functionaries in the kingdom. Some evil-disposed folk dare to insinuate, indeed, tliat they are too decorous, too quiet, and that many things which should be loudly and strongly denounced, are scarcely even so much as heard of in the Council Chamber — but we cannot adopt this dictum, at least without large qualifications. The present population of Linton is about 1000, that of the parish (Prestonkirk) 1,900 — the rental of the latter being <£15,860, and its area closely verging upon 5000 acres. Con- siderable portions of the town have only been built for the first time within the last thirty or forty years, but as it is strictly — almost entirely — an agricultural village, and as farming has been deplorably depressed in its vicinity for many years, the extension of the clachan has been withheld, and the place has stagnated lamentably for the last decade, or so. What it really lacks apparently is a public work or two, and it is surprising that this has not, ere this time, been gone into — considering its fine water power, its nearness to the sea, and its position on a main line of railway between Scotland and England. Surely, surely there is something rotten in the state of Denmark here ? Besides the famous parish church of Prestonkirk, Linton possesses two other ecclesiastical buildings, but these do not pre- sent any points of particular interest. It is far otherwise with Prestonkirk. There, the " Auld Kirk " occupies the site of an old Culdee place of worship— erected in the sixth century by St Baldred — the " Apostle of the Lothians," and "a disciple of St Hentigern or Mungo " — who, on his arrival in this part of the country, took up his i-esidence on the Bass, in conformity with the example of St Columba, and other " saints " of that period, who sought, by making their chief habitation and headquarters on islands near the principal scene of their labours, that retire- ment and safety which could not then be found on the rude and turbulent mainland. Fordoun, in the introductory chapter of P R E F A T O U Y N T E. IX. his " Chronicles," makes mention of St Baldred's religious estab- lishment in this locality, and the fact is also referred to in the " Black Book of Cupar," and, moreover, specially accepted and detailed by Chalmers in his " Caledonia." By the last writer- indeed, we are told that St Baldred removed from the Bass to Tynninghame (a village about a mile further east than Pre.ston, kirk), where he established a religious house, or college, principally as a school of instruction for his converts and followers. From this centre he occasionally visited, and resided for a space in various districts " between the Lammermoors and Inveresk," and in the course of time founded churches at Auld- hame, Hamer (Whitekirk), and Linton (Prestonkirk), which last has, in one form or another, sheltered the " true worshippers " among the Picts, Saxons, Scots, Culdees, Romanists, Episcopal, and Presbyterians for thirteen hundred years. The ancient name of the Church of Linton began, shortly before the Reformation, to give place to that of the " Hauch," or " Halch," which again changed to " Prestonhaugh," and, yet again, in the last century, to' Prestonkirk — its present, and, we trust, its final designation. Sir John Sinclair, in his " Statistical Account," says that it is mentioned in the Saxon annals under the Latin name of EccUsia Sancti Baldridi, the titular saint of the place, and that the same old records bear that the Saxons, having made an irruption into East Lothian in the eighth century, burnt Ecdesiam Bald- ridi et adjacentum de Tyninyliam, and probably other churches in the district. Bearing this in mind, it becomes intensely interesting to learn that when the old church was taken down, for restoration, in 1770, " the oak beams bore on them in several places evident marks of fire ; so that it is probable they had belonged to the ancient fabric, and if so, must have been there for over one thousand years!" Some spots and natural objects near by the church still bear the name of this renowned saint. There is to this day an eddy or whirlpool in the Tyne at Preston, known as " Baldred's Whii'l," and also a " Jialdrcd's Well," ^tc. Tlie scene of Prestonkirk was chosen fur a church with the X. y u K V A 'I' u n Y N o T i:. eye of a profound artist and propagandist, and of a v(>rity it is not difficult to find good reasons for St Baldi'cd's preference for it as the site of his greatest clmrch. The situation is one of great and peculiar beauty at all times, but particularly during summer and autumn. The church stands on the summit of a knoll or small eminence on the north ))ank of the river, and overlooks the public highway to North Berwick, via Tynning- hame, about three hundred yards to the east of the lower or northern part of the town of Linton. This graceful and unique eminence slopes down gently and gradually on all sides — on the south to the slow-flowing, broad, and placid Tyne, and on the others to the. surrounding lands of Smeaton. It rises, crowned with its ivy-mantled church, and from the midst of a surrounding maze of wonderful trees, and a matchless wealth of foliage, in our eye as the fit and hallowed scene and base of the grand old evangelist's operations ; and the culminating point as well of a wide-extending district of great natural beauty and fertility, and agricultural richness and enterprise. Since the seventeenth century its neighbourhood, with all its many notable men, has stood pre-eminent in the science and practice of husbandry and kindred industries, and even now, we believe, it is unexcelled by any part of the United Kingdom in these departments of human activity. Other than Prestonkirk, in and around Linton, there are many noteworthy places and edifices — e.g., Traprain Law, Hailes Castle, the Linn, Balgone, Biel, Pressmennan, Binning Wood, Markle, &c. ; but it would be manifestly out of place to devote space to them here, though of a surety every one of them is " weel worth gaun a mile to see." All that seems necessary to do in this introduction, in regard alike to Linton, Prestonkirk, and their surroundings, has already been written or indicated in the foregoing — that is, what may i-easonably be accounted a sufficient description of the Linton locality, to enable a reader, wliether a native or a stranger, fully to apprehend the several contents of this book so far as they relate to that locality. !-" H K F A T O R Y NOT K. XI. Many of the " Lays and Letters " were in the first instance addressed to Editors — acquaintances of the writer — in whose publications not a few of them first appeared, under various headings, and in one shape or other. They, with many additions, have been drawn together and are now published in book form — simply because the writer and many of his friends deemed it advisable to do so. To them, also, for many reasons, was it very desireable. If a gross error has been unwittingly run into in the case — sure it is not the first, neither will it be the last, literary mistake perpetrated. All that is asked from the fair and just critic is — that he may read the book honestly through, before pronouncing upon it. Were we assured of the generosity of our friend, we might also request him to remember (or as is likely, if he is unaware of our ditHculties, to accept the sad fact of them on our word), the terrible days and nights of trials and troubles to the author, during which the " great feck " of the " Lays and Letters " were composed and scribbled. Two small pieces which were printed in a former work, reappear in this book — a fault which could not either be easily or properly avoided. At the same time, however, in the places which they now occupy in this volume, they are just where they were originally meant to be. Should the present one meet with a tithe of the success of the book alluded to, certes, ere long, in a certain " canny neuk " of East Lothian at least, there will be many russet rustic faces exhibit- ing the broad grin of heart-felt glee and satisfaction. Perhaps it is too audaciously presumptive to anticipate this ? The characters and images of all the chief persons figuring in the following pages were (or were attempted to be) " drawn from life," and two of them, namely, " Mrs Pintail " and " Samuel Macklebackit " still continue to endure it. " Sara," by many, has been supposed to mean the author ! For this shock- ing blunder, however, the writer, in a great measure, has himself to blame ; because the misapprehension originated through his .Ml. P U E K A T O i: Y \ U T JC. •■ippencling Sam's name as his pseudonym, or nom de plume to his pieces in the local papers ; and because, in Sam's story, the people fancied they recognised not a few incidents, &c., which had undoubtedly been the sole experience and circumstances of the author himself. Stuff and non.sense. The study of this amus- ing error is to the scribe and a few friends a curious and inter- esting psychological exercise sometimes over a " toothfu'," and one that vividly demonstrates to them the really dreadful truth of the proverbial danger there is in playing heedlessly with edged tools. Speaking of a " toothfu'," reminds us to say that the fre- (juent allusions to conviviality m the book (such as to the Dominie's " Tappit Hen," and the Piper's " Athole brose horn ") should not be accepted too literally, for assuredly than those two worthies more temperate men in their eating and drinking never stepped forth and honoured bonny Scotland. Like the writer, both of them drew their inspiration from entirely other sources. Mrs Pintail—" My Nannie O "—who is still " to the fore "— ay, the fore front, where, from her lassie-hood, she has ever been, is now a prominent resident and philanthropic citizen of Edin- burgh, where the author never looses a single opportunity of in- terviewing her, when he is in the town and the proper mood. Mucklebackit, as of old, is " here, there, and God knows where," but as bold, vigorous, jokesome, and tender-hearted as ever he was and bids fair to rival even the Auld Dominie in r&spect to long- evity. All the others, alas ! The fussy, yet shrewd and loveable, Auld Dominie ; the heroic, the acute, and subtle, the prophetic, and philosophical, the never-to-be-forgotten "Piebald Piper"; and Jamie and Mrs Harsman, and the idolised John Hootsman, and Tam Coom, and " Heather Jock" — all, all of them, alas, are where Vjoth writer and reader must be — almost ere ever they are aware. A la mode. Yes, but dit/it vivimus vivarmis / S. M. East Linton, ibb'J. CONTENTS. Page. Preface. The Auld Dominie — Nixe Letters. Introductory Note, ------ i First Letter — An Account of an Ice Block on the Tyne, -------- 5 Second Letter — Mucklebackit's Return, and Disestab- lishment, - - - - - - - 11 Third Letter — Mucklebackit's Visit, etc., - ■ 17 Fourth Letter — ^A Drive to the Seaside, - - 24 Fifth Letter — The New Electorate, - - - 32 Sixth Letter — Autobiographical, - - - - .39 Seventh Letter — Autobiographical — " Woo'd and Married and a'," ------ 52 Eighth Letter — Autobiographical — The Interjacent Letter, -------- .58 Ninth Letter — How the Large Farm of Blaebraes was Taken, ------ 65 End of the Auld Dominie — " Twas in the deid o' Winter," -------- 78 East Lothian Farm Folks' Club, ----- 83 Mingling with the Magnates, ----- 93 " Auld Castled Hailes," ------ 105 Auld Hansel Monday, - - - - - - 107 Hiring Friday, - - - 115 Testimonials to Provosts, - - - - - - 123 Poetic SAVAfiKRY, or Bespoke Epitaphs, - - - 127 To Rah o' THE Hill, 129 XIV. C O N T i; N T S. Page. Tn Pkestonkirk Churchyard, 130 At A Brother's Grave, 132 Leaving liiNTON, - - 133 Two Scraps, - - - - 135 At Tin: A iLD Abbey Brig, 137 To an Aspiring Elder, 139 On Mr Sharp Leaving Linton, 141 Song, - - - 143 To THE Man in the Moon, 144 Julie- Annie, 145 The Brand OF Dunbar, 147 Spring, ---------- 148 Marriage Lines, - - - - - - - - 149 The Adventures op Benjamin Solomon, Yeoman, in Search of a Spouse, - - - - - - 154 At the Mauthouse — A Rant, - - - - - 156 The " Piebald Piper " — Six Letters — First Letter — First Meetings with the Piper, - 159 Second Letter — Factors and Farmers, - - - 164 Third Letter — Highland Superstitions, &c., - 172 " What can a Young Fellow do \vi' an Auld Wife?" ------- 176 Fourth Letter — Dreams — The Modern Scoto- Irish, &c., - - - - - - - - 182 " Some Sorrowful Harvest Cogitations, by Pharle O'Rafferty," - - ^ _ 192 Fifth Letter — At Stirling and Bannockburn, - 195 "Wallace," - - - - - - 198 Sixth Letter — Last Day with the Piper, &c., - - 207 " At the Grave of a Young Friend who was Acci- dentally Killed," - - - - - 216 LAYS & LETTERS FROM LINTON. THE AULD DOMINIE. INTRODUCTORY NOTE. This first letter by my old schoolmaster, and afterwards brother, or neighbour farmer, Avas written by him a few months prior to the 'time of my final departure from Clover Riggs. Shortly after the period to which it alludes, I left again the locality of Linton and was far away from it for several years. About three months after coming back — for the last time, I hope — I accidentally foregathered with the fussy, shrewd, old pedagogue, much in the manner and under the circumstances which he describes so graphically in his second e})istle. The celebrated tenant of the large farm of Blaebraes, near Linton, w;is a retired country schoolmaster, who rejoiced in the sedate ami appropriate sobri- (juet of Tliomas PintaiL At the date of the letter he and I had long been acquainted, for I hud been a pupil of his long before that pei'icjd — an urchin in his lower classes. At the time referred to he had held the farm for four oi' five years, and had, so far, succeeded surpi'isingly, considering tlie evcirlastingly fussy, Hdgetty, go.ssiping character of the man. The extremely clever and ener- getic nature of his better half (who is still living and more prosperous than evei-, although remaining in unmarried widow- B 2 L A Y S A \ I) L IC '1' '1' IC n S. hood), no (loui)t would cdiistitute iiu OJirnost of the Pominio's success as a tanner from the beginniii!;;, for Agnes, or still better known as " My Nannie O," was to him more by far than a rommon helpmate -in sti'ict fact, slu; was tiuly his "guardian angel,'" iiis keeper, his lawgivei', and, T believe, when he wandered asti-ay (which he would generally do about fifty times in a month), his sa\iour, judge, and jailer, also. Under an exterior of (lucrulous " cursedness " and sauciness, however, one could easily perceive in the dame a deep underlying feeling of respect and devotedness for the factious, eccentric, and restless Dominie. The uni(iue pair combined — the two as one in holy matrimony — i-eally constituted a double or compound })er.souage, wIkj was fit to wage the battle of life right bravely and victoriously. What Tammas lacked Agnes possessed superabundantly, and vice versa. Their two sons and one daughter were, at the time the first letter was penned, all grown up, and well settled in Edinbui-gh and Ulasgow — the daughter Ijeing married t(» a nephew of the univer.sally-honoured and admired farmei' of Leddyslove, John Hootsman, Es([uire. Of Thomas Pintail, the Dominie himself, it is extremely difficult to give anything like a correct idea, he was such an extraordinary moody, fitful, fluctuating, never-resting, chattering, will-o-the-wisp mortal withal. Nevertheless I will tackle to him, and give my i-eaders as accurate a description of the famous " T. P." as I am capable of writing. Imagine, then, a very tall, thin, stooping old man, habited in buckled shoes, blue hose, woi'sted-coi'd knee-breeches, a snuff-coloured, swallow-tail coat witli a high peaked collar, which almost reached to the crown of his head behind — a coat of the fashion common in the first years of this century — and a " lum " hat of the same period. The personal f(!atures of this fascinating human oddity were as keen and shai-p as those of a greyhound, or a stirring, go-a-he;ul Yankee. His l)row, which was very ample, was overhanging and very wrinkled and sh;iggy at the eyes, and receded a little. The eyes themselves were small, bright gray, and eager and piercing T H E A U L D D M I N I E. 6 as those of a weasel. He wore no l)eai'd or moustache, and his meagre whiskers were tliiu and " lyart." His chin was prominent, but small and peaked, and his mouth, which in his prime had been full and large, was in old age (the birth-time of the letters) toothless and greatly fallen in, and there was ever- lastingly a snuff drop pendant at the extreme tip of his high, hooked, and nasal organ. Such, as true as I can depict it, was the external aspect of this long-limbed and somewliat splay-footed genius, the late " maister" of Blaebraes. He was at the time of the letters of unknown but immense age. People living, but now approaching the end of their four-score years, declare to me that the Dominie was an old man when they were in their leading strings. Be this as it may, the inward nature — the moral and mental character- istics — of this gigantic " forked radish " answered well to the appearance of their corporeal lodgement. Above all he was combative (but harmlessly so, like the dog whose bai'k was vvorse than his bite) and argumentative to the last degree, and so he wotild split polemical and political hairs with a Hottentot — like a member of the first bench of the Opposition in the House of Commons. He was deeply read and largely informed in general literature, and chokeful of Scottish sectarian history. He was also one of the shrewdest and e.xactest observers I ever knew, and, without doubt, had his judgment and his discriminating and reflective faculties been anytliing like equal to his perceptive ones he would have made himself known even to a wider circle than he did. Next to his argumentativeness — if not on a par with it --was his most curious, prying, inquisitive disposition. Nothing gave him moie heart-felt delight than to hunt up some rara avis, or local " celebrity," dispute with him there and then, pump him as dry as he could, feri-et out all his peculiarities, ways, and manners, and then surreptitiously describe him totally in the columns of one or other of our newspapers. In this way he has reported, with added flourishes of his own. 4 LAYS A N I) L !■: T T i: 1! S. not a little of my own talk and other doing's in his latter days ; but as ho was on the whole a capital colloquist, and a patient listener when he was interested, I did not altogether discourage him. Tn the solitudes of the country one is often glad to meet with a willing and convenient listener — an agreeable and fit receptacle into whom one can freely pour the v.-aste cogitations of his overcharged brains. Hence the Dominie's letters, &c. It is to me a curious and remarkable fact that the three greatest men T ever came in contact with, Hugh Miller, the Auld Dominie, and the Piebald Piper, have all died violent deaths — the first lamentably by pistol shot, and the other two by drowning. I hope that this sad and somewhat extraordinary fact is not ominous of the manner of my own exit from the stage of this perplexing world. S. M. FIR S T LETTS R. An Account of an Ice Block on the Tyne. Wheu winds aff caulJcst airts do blaw, An bar us in wi' drifted snaw, And hing us owre the ingle." Being, as I am, a man l)owed down and laden witli the burden of innumerable years, infirmities, and sorrows, together with the never-ending scoldings and complainings of an energetic and limber-tongued spouse, anything like perfect punctuality or Pharasaical regularity must not be expected of me ; although, depend upon it, " Auld Tarn " shall at all times bustle him up and endeavour to do his best. It is already thoroughly well-known that Blaebraes lies immediately adjacent to Clover Riggs, that world-wide celebrated haunt and renowned dwelling place of the matchless Muckle- backit — our own beloved and familiarly-known " 8am !" Be- tween our respective steadings extends — which surely no ignoramus needs be told — a space of about one Scotch mile without the bittock ; but short as the distance is, the snow- storm verily effectually l)arred our usual daily intercoui'se with each other. The loss of this was felt by me in every faculty of my spirit and in every bone and sinew of my body, and T went nightly groaning to bed, suffering for lack of his exhilarating discourse and stimulating tumbkir of toddy. At length, last Thursday, the road Ijctwixt the fai'ms was opened up by Mr Nelson in pui-e comi)assion ; and I crossed over in saf(!ty to Clover lliggs just as tlie people were loosing from tlie barn. 6 L A V S AND I, !•: T 'I' !•; H H. INIr ]\[uckleb;ickit, T was told, was in the parlour, so T " stappit ben," unannounced, as of t)ld. I found him sitting in liis stock- ing-feet in the big chair, drawn up close and square, right in front of a tremendous fire, composed of a Ijarrowful of mixed sawmill cuttings and Deans it Moore's coals. The sweat streamed down the deep gullies of his i-ugged, tiei'ce, and stai-tled- looking face, as he turned t(» salute me, and 1 could see at a glance that he had just returned fioiii sonic cxtraordinaiy exjiedition. "Oh, Mr Mucklebackit, dear Mr Mucklebackit ! what is wrang 1 where have you been V I spasmodically, at inter- vals, incjuired, as he shook m(> to pieces by the hand, and then hugged and squeezed me in his vast embrace, like as a sea dog is done by a liuge Polar bear, foi- my gigantic friend had not yet dotted his large fur overcoat, and we had not met for three weeks previously. At lang and last, f(jr lack of breath, "Oh, Tam, Tam !" he cried, " hoo's a' wi' ye 1 sit doun, sit doun, Tibb, the kettle — boil the kettle — tlie big ane, mak' the boiler bubble, fesh ben the tappit hen, mind tlie sucker. Dominie Pintail, hoo's a' wi' ye ; and hoo's youi' fair lady, the gentle, charming, Nannie, O ?" (For long years back, let me here explain, 8am had been addicted to the reprehensible habit of waggishly designating my vigilant better-half behind her back by the poetical, but not in her case at all, approjiriate title of " My Nannie, O !" I often have gravely expostulated with him against this custom, but he still wickedly adheres to it, and as I know him to be at heart a .sarcastic knave, I begin to jalouse that the term in his mouth means nothing but " ironic satire sidelins sklented.'") AVell, after our salutations were made, and all the usual domestic inquiries had been duly honoured, I anxiously i-epeated my first (juery, and asked him where had he been. " Been !" he retorted fiercely, " been ; you auld gommerel. Weel may ye speer, ' Whare hae I been f But I see that ye are burstin' wi' T n K A U L D D O M I N' I K. I curiosity, sae in pity I shall e'en ettle t,ie relieve you gif you will only steek, oi- draw some closer, the portals of that awfu' mooth, whilk is gapin' e'enoo like a riftclud i' the deid oor o' nicht !" After somewhat confusedly bringing together my lips, whicli had, I must confess, in my astonishment separated, and kept them- selves apart rather widely and vulgarly. Sam put his tumbler to liis mouth, and then laid Iiimself out ns follows : — " When I got up this morning, Pintail, an' saw what was wliat owre-heid i' the sky, (juoth I to mysel', ' Tyne will break up this day, sure.' Sae, after I had started the folk to the dung, I slippit cannily awa' by mysel" an' the collie doug through the iields riverwaids. Tarn, believe me, I hae trampit this day, waist-deep, through as muckle snaw as micht staw and turn the stamack o' the dis- coverei'S of a hail! bundle of Noi-th Poles. Wreaths o' snaw 1 Wreaths ! Man, Dominie, I tell ye, I passed and rounded at a safe distance this day on my journey ;is mony mounds and mountains, hillocks and hills, and peaks and pyramids, of pure snaw, as whilk, had they been not snaw but granite or whin stone, would stton have taken the shine out o' sic moudiewarts as the Ochils, Tintoc Tap, an' sich. Weel, after nearly losing my chart among the gorges and deep ravines of this Canadian scenery, and at the cost of gallons of perspiration and half-hours of the most exhausting labour imaginable, I at last struck the Tyne between Stevenson and Hailes Castle. The river tliere was clear, but swollen and turbid, and upon its glancing expanse floated, slid, or tumbled past, numberless portions of shattered ice, of every conceivable form and size. After I had glowered awliile, and taken in and absorbed the whole scene, I noticed floating and whonnnling towards me a considerably lai-gei- berg than the general, and quickly did T make me ready, for, from the moment I flrst perceived it coming swooping down in the distance, T resolved, if possible, to bo;ird it. As it was sliooting jjast, witliin about four or Ave feet from the bank, T s;iid hurriedly a short j)rayer, spat on my hands, made a bound, landed aboard all right, and instantly took entire possession. T then whistled on the collie, and in the fraction of a jifley, the newly enlisted tar was 8 L A V S A N 1) L K T T K 1! S. Sit my side — the most able-bodied sailor, excepting the captain, aboard. In a short time, T luckily succeeded in grabbing and fishing on deck a paling-rail, about fifteen feet long, so, with this handy rudder or scull I took post astern, while the faithful collie at once figure-headed and manned the bow. Soon were we in mid-channel, and making seaward at railway speed, for never did sailing vessel or steamship lly as we flew. I iiave assisted to pilot rafts of logs adown some of the ' creeks ' in America, as I have told you of before, Dominie, but I don't think I ever enjoyed so excitable a ' run ' as the one I experienced this morning on the breakfast-looking table of ice adorning my native stream. The only drawback, I thought (after I had got safe ashoi'e), was its shortness. In the deep pools at and above Hailes Castle, the ice still held together, and of course the blocks from tlie higher reaches of the river had to halt behind and wait till this moved. In this way, Tammas, the block inci-easingly extended during the early part of the day from Fadden's Hole, two hundred yards above the castle, westward as far as the Mill Dean, fully three-quarters of a mile, and pre- sented a most novel and grotesque spectacle — the scene remind- ing me vividly of the muster and formation of a grand public procession, such as one of those annually witnessed when I was a youngster in Haddington of the Oddfellows or Freemasons. Every moment fussily arrived at the gathering point at the west- end parties of bergs, singly or in groups, which were every one at once taken in tow by some unseen agency, halted, dii'ected, wheeled about, coaxed, shoved, or thrust headlong into their alloted positions. And strange positions, indeed, some of those dispersed offspring of winter did occupy ! The rank and file of this hoary array assumed more or less a recumbent attitude ; but the higher members, the apparent superiors or officers of this vast army of the Ice King, edged up, leaned, or stood bolt upright in their lyart uniforms, and boldly surveyed and watched the field. All were in silent suspense, awaiting the grand moment to march, but their chieftain ahead, himself, dour Jack Frost, still stubbornly restrained them. His (John's) headquarters and T II ]•; A U L I) I) M I X 1 K. 9 last entrenchment were immediately in that portion of the river below the old Castle of Hailes. A little after three o'clock, from Ijeneath the venerable ruins, were heard to issue a succession of weird and unearthly noises — growlings, crackings, muffled ex- plosions, angry mutteiings, rumblings, curses, hisses, and defiant Billingsgate — as if a vei'italjle subaqueous Home Rule meeting was being held there. This, as it proved, was bold Jack Frost being counselled and compelled to assent to an immedi;ite stampede seaward, his present foothold on the river being no longer tenable, for the thaw " " Why, Sam, Sam 1" I here impatiently edged in, " Oh, Sam, this is all balderdash and pure imagination. You ai-e as excited as if you were recounting tlie positive defeat and overthrow of an actual army. How, in the name of common sense, could you or any one possibly fancy the meagre sounds produced by the breaking up of a paltry sheet of ice to have been the audible communings of the Frost King and the officers of his staff?" "You blockhead I" wrathfully inter- posed Mucklebackit, " you auld miserable, dry-as dust, literal, pedagogic sumph I AVhat hae ye dune ? ye hae broken the spell a1^ the very nick an' climax o' the sooblime enchantment ! Haud yer tongue, or gae hame a,t ance, for I maun finish this recital in my ain way, else wadna sleep enfauld her weary wings f)n my eyelids this niclit. As I was saying, by three o'clock, the river was packed and jannned fou with broken ice for nearly a mile abune the auld castle — not sae much as ae inch o' bare water to be seen owre the haill streetch. Suddenly, at about half-past three, General Frost struck camp, and retreated with those nearest him pell-mell over the mill dam. The knowledge of this seemed instantly to have been transmitted through the whole legion, for directly the entire frozen phalanx was astir and in motion. Such a sight I I would not have lost it for even six cosy yeai's of fireside })ook-reading, with auld Tibb darning stockings at my side. To the sad nuisic of the hollow wind, piping shrilly in the naked trees overhead, the hoary Ai-ctic pageant, like winter's own funeral march, moved on, and was lost in the eternal. Silently, and apparently reluctantly at first, 10 I, A Y S A X 1) L K T r !•: K S. each iiulividual unit of the vast icy troop stirred itself, fell into its Hi)p<)iiite(l place in the ranks in silent order, ami then was wliirh'd away. All the time, h)uder and louder soughed the wailing wind, and hai'sher and harsher roared the rising flood beneath and behind ; and, ere long, the mighty procession of bergs was seen toKsing, jostling and struggling, down the valley in disastidus tuimoil and retreat. Swish-swash, huriy-scurry, rumble-tund)le, like the French in their llight from Waterloo, poor Winters disper.sed offspring, in final defeat and overthrow, were swept confu.sedly before the thaw, whose victorious and pursuing forces every drain, ditch, and l)urn were debouching in ever-increasing vt)lume and power. In half-an-hour all was over ; and the only tokens left that such a drama liad been enacted a few minutes before, were a scattered remnant of stranded bergs, left high and dry on either bank." S E C X D L E T T E R. [The reader will kindly remember that a liiatus of some years extended between the periods of the first and this the second letter of the venerable teacher.] Mucklebackit's Return and Disestablishment. " Todliii' haine, todlin" hamc, As round as a iieep came todlin' hame.'" — Old Sonrj, It is not true that I am dead. The entii-e .story from end to end is a heartless and a malicious fabrication of falsehood. The mere fa,ct that you are now perusing this letter is proof conclusive that I was at least living not more than two or three days ago. And, moreover, when this lucubration left my desk, I felt not only alive, but indeed exceedingly leesome and life-like and happy and could have jumped over all the Tories in Scotland — and was as vigorous and energetic as if I still had been in my twenties. Nevertheless, I am fully aware that it may be pertinently and justitiably asked how do I account for my long, })rofound, and most unnatural silence ? The " Old Dominie " was wont to be heard in East Lothian ? This query is easily answered, (ri-eat or small, loud or lown, whatever my note may l)e, it is (»nly as that of an echo — as all other humnu voices, .save only those of a favoured few, two oi' thi-ee in the lapse of an age, must be. My great chief and inspirer, in whom pul)licly T lived, mo^'ed, and had my being, has, for a time exactly corresponding to that of my lamentable silence, been mysteriously wandering and sojourning in pai'ts remote far, fai', alas I l)ey()nd my longing 12 I, A V S A X I) h i: T T K 1! S. siijflit .■iiul ken. Therefore, my mournful and melancholy mute- ness. The absence of Mucklebackit was more than sufficient to i,nve the quietus to a whole trilje of mere promuli^ators and pro- pagandists such as Pintail. Lately, however, strange and startling rumours began to be whispered abroad, wliich anon were deftly breathed into the somewhat hairy portals of mine ancient ears ; and at last it was reported to me by a faithful servitor that Sam was returned, and had actually been seen by di\'ers benighted travellers haunting the scenes of the departed glory. Yes. Everybody declared he was certainly back again, but that in the meantime he only left his secret lair, like the lions, after nightfall. Months passed — blank desolate months — unblest with one peep of him, de die in diem. I was now in the extremity of despair, raving, and on the verge of giving up the ghost. But, the unexpected sometimes happens. The other night I was returning from a large meeting of " Liberal Churchmen," which had been holden in a tailor's back shop, and was forlornly enough trudging aVjout midnight through the somewhat sombre little hollow in which are still seen brokenly standing the weird and naked ruins of the venerable castle of Hailes. Suddenly, I heard a footfall close by my side, and instantly I halted and looked up. " Angels and ministers of grace !" what was it ? A gigantic figure, plaided, muffled, and in deep shadow — a figure like unto that of an antediluvian, stalked firmly and silently by my side. Tremblingly, I gasped liysterically — " Whence comest thou 1 I know thee not. Avaunt !" " What ! ye cankert, camsteerie, feckless, glaiket gomeral, what's wrang wi' ye ? Ken na ye me — eh ?" Will the world believe it ? The giant, the antediluvian, was none other than tlie Mucklebackit. What passed betwixt us during the first ecstatic half hour of our re-union no ear of mortal mould shall ever learn. Our salutations and sacred rites of hallowed friendship at length enacted, we retired with one accord to the top of a knoll near the old castle, and sat us down. This scene at midnight was THE AULD DOMINME. 13 weird and unearthly ; yet grand, solemn, and impressive. The stars looked down upon us ; a vast extending concave of cloud- less azure canopied us ; the softest of balmy zephyrs fanned and refreshed us ; flowers and herbs innumerable, and " milk white " hawthorns diffused their fragrance to us ; the dark woods and trees danced and bobbit to us ; while all the time the sedge- singer and the fascinating " howlet " sang and hooted to us. It was an impressive scene. Low down on the northern horizon a broad spatch of bright unearthly-looking light betokened where the " Witching hour " was being drawn in her ti'iumphal car. All was sublimity and elevation of spirit I Mucklebackit sat spell-bound and could not speak. And I think the " howlet " perceived us and sympathised with our rapt adoration, for it was strangely silent all the while. At last, in order to destroy in its earliest stage a painful drowsiness which I felt was beginning to creep over me, I shouted loudly in Sam's ear, " Clover Riggs !" At the sound of the dear old familiar name, he roused up and shook himself like a newly- unharnessed horse, and pensively enquired, " Where had I been T I told him at the gi-eat meeting of " Liberal Churchmen " in the back shop, and he then asked me what had been the result of it. I replied that a motion had been carried by a majority in favour of the continued establishment of the Church. Whereupon, he nimbly bent forward, and keenly scrutinised my face, and hissed out between his set teeth, the following demand, " How did you vote T " Vote !" I cried, " why for the Establishment, of course." " For the Estal)lishment !" he rejoined, in his old serio-comic, mock-combastic way, " for the Establishment ! a flne pillar o' the Kirk you'll mak'. Faugh !" " Why Sam, Sam, what ails you ? you're a member of the Kirk yourself." " Ay !" he retorted quickly, " an' prood to be. Dominie, Disestablishment is a theme I have given some consideration to, and I think that the disestablishers have the best of the argument ; and tlierefore I believe that Disestablishment will assuredly happen — happen when it may. It must come — I think — because it is right." 14 LAYS A \ I) L K T T K li S. " Oh, Mucklel)ackit I" I groaned, " you dumbfouncler mo. How on earth cm you reason so? Would you really desti'oy the Church of your fathers — the Church with .such a history — the Church of Scotland — the free Chuich of the poor ?" " Destroy, you suniph !" he retorted somewhat violently. " Destroy : Wha speaks aboot destroyin' ? Tiie Kiik will ,i,Miii a new lease be't — a lease luair prosperous an' i^dorious than ony .she's ever trowed yet ; because she will then exist an' llourish, unhated by her ri\.ils, free an' unshackled ; and because .she will then become in a nioie tendei' and endeariiij^ de I, K I' I' ]■: H S. the li.ii'nKHiv and iiK'iiinifnl of our liajijiy imrty. It was really a pleasure — a pure and inispeakable ]deasure of the highest — to me to observe all those hard-workiut^ and industrious sons and (laufher social and educational pretensions. And barring perhaps a slight tincturing of unintentional rudeness, or natural coarseness, their manners and general deportment were irreproachable also. After the lusty and memorable collation, we had songs and toasts all round, wliicii were provocative of the greatest fun, and a few of the richest peals of genuine laughter that it has ever been my happiness during the course of a long life to hear. To the songs and toasts succeeded a dance. As we had no fiddler, and T being past the pei'iod of tripping it on the light fantastic toe, Mucklebackit had the audacity to call upon me to " teedle '' to the pai-ty. T, of course, demurred, and said I thought this demand upon me was outrageous, but he would take no denial, and I was therefore compelled to get up and make a merry Andrew of myself in broad day. As the performance was to be a " Hcotch reel," I resolved to put the desiderated mettle into their heels with an attempt at the tune of the " Highland Laddie." A large flat greenstone boulder of about a ton in weight lay handy close by the scene of operations, and on this secure foundation I improvised an appropriate I'ostrum and mounted and began forthwith. All that I shall say in reference to this part of the day's proceedings is assuredly very little. My voice naturally is not of the nightingale order — to say the least — and now, what with feebleness and a host of cognate infirmities peculiar to old age, it is absolutely excruciating even to a fishwife when raised a single note higher than just an audible sing-song hum. Imagine then how it sounded, and creaked, and squeeled, and fizzed, and sputtered, and squirmed when in full blast and fury in my fond and wild endeavour to T JI K A U L T) D M I X I E. 35 give " music " to this energetic ]);ind of some ten or ;i dozen couples of agriculturists, all in the very flower and hey-day of life. It was a godsend there were so few spectators and listeners around. The kittiwakes and seaniews all disappeared, and I should expect them not to revisit that spot for some time to come. The dancer.s, however, despite both me and the intolerable heat, careered and held out wonderfully, and Mucklebackit, every time he came louping to my side, waved aloft his powerful arm, and vigorously exhorted me with speech and gesture to put foi'th my very best, and let them have it. The perspiration, accordingly, with the ecstatic and super-human ettbrts which I made to please him, streamed from me in a deluge, and my unparallelled exertions made my jawbones stound and ache like a lively young lumbago in a backward spring. At last they all jumped and reeled them- selves literally out of breath, and liad perforce to desist for sheer lack of pliysical aliility fui-ther to jirolong their wild antics. Upon the bents they flung themselves headlong, exhausted, half melted, and elemented, where they lay speechless and dissolved, and di'ipped, like heaps of sheep skins on the floor of a tannery, for the next half-liouj-. At length Sam aroused himself, and shouted out, " Jamie Horsman, well dance nae mair the day. Dancing is the madness of Ijedlamities in such a heat as this is. Sae let us a' sit still, an' sing, an crack. Jean "' (]\[i-s Horsman) " hoo's my little Sammy ?' (the son of Jamie and Jean Hoi'sman, and Mucklel)ackit's name-child). " AVhat foi- is the young hero no' here ? T'ln gaun to send Iiis Stuart kilt an' i'eathei' next week. Busk him in them, Jean, an' never such anithei' fowr- year-auld Gildeioy e\ex- Jjlessed a Scottish god father's e'e. Never. In twenty years hence we'll ha'e him returned as Mend)ei' o' Parliament for his native county." These half-serious, half-humorous sentences f)f Sam's, which were made to l)e understood by the whole (•omi)aMy, incited the male members of it to instant political conversation and debate. 36 L A Y S A N I) L K T T K U S. aiul ininiPfliatoly the 2"*™^P6cts of tlic ii\,il Parliamentary can- (li(lrtte« of tlie county were canvassed and discussed a]l round witli astonishing interest and ability. Now is the time, I bethought me, now is the glorious and longed for o])portunity afforded you, Dominie, for exploiting and making manifest of what stuff the " New Electorate " is really made. Adroitly perceiving this with my usual and characteristic alacrity, 1 at once bawled over to Horsman to know what he thought of the situation 1 " Oh I dinna ken, sir," he replied, cautiously, " T haena thocht vei-y much aboot it yet." " It will be a deid heat ;" interjected Tam Coom, the blacksmith. " Haldane wad haul doun the Kirk, but the Kirk 'ill maybe haul doun Haldane." " That canna be," cannily put in Willie Sawyer, the joiner, " Ye canna haul doun what never has been up. Mr Haldane is only yet trying to get up." " An' he sail geet ma vote ;" cried " Heather Jock," the shepherd frae Muirhill, " Kirk or nae Kirk, nae Toiy for me. Wha gied us the vote ? Wes it no' the Lee- berals ? an' sail we thanklessly an' treacherously use their ain gift to ding them doun noo ? Get awae. Lat the working men stick to their true freends, an' lat the Kirk fend for itsel'. Nae fear o' the Kirk." " No, nae fear for the Kirk," answered Sandy Briggs, the roadman — a U.P.^ — " but for the estaiblishment o't ? It's a standing injustice to twa-thirds o' the country. Endow us a', or nane ava. Lat us a' be aiqual." " Than gang a' to the Auld Kirk," retorted Jenny Geddes, a smart, gashlooking, hind's wife. " That's oot o' the question, Jenny ma wumman," rejoined Sandy. " An' besides ye ken, Jenny, though a' the Presbyter- ians war to do sae, there wad still be the Episcopawlians, an' the Roman Catholics, an' ithers. We want ai