AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 BENJ. IDE WHEELER, PRESIDENT 
 
 COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE thomas forsyth hunt, dean and director 
 
 H. E. VAN NORMAN, Vice-Director and Dean 
 University Farm School 
 
 BERKELEY 
 
 CIRCULAR No. 142. 
 
 November, 1915. 
 
 PRACTICAL AND INEXPENSIVE POULTRY 
 APPLIANCES. 
 
 By J. E. Dougherty and W. E. Lloyd. 
 
 The following pages describe and illustrate a number of practical, 
 labor-saving and inexpensive poultry appliances, that have either been 
 designed or improved by the Poultry Division of the College of 
 Agriculture, University of California. The primary aim in designing 
 or improving these appliances has been (1) to make them as low in 
 cost as possible so that expense of this nature might be kept low, (2) 
 to make the designs very simple so that any one with ordinary skill in 
 handling a hammer and saw could readily make them at home, (3) to 
 produce appliances that would work, and work efficiently. 
 
 TRAPNESTS. 
 
 Poultrymen are coming to realize more fully, year by year, the great 
 value of the trapnest in breeding for egg production, just as dairymen 
 have come to appreciate the enormous value of the scales and Babcock 
 tester in improving a dairy herd. In order to know accurately just 
 how many eggs a hen produces ; in order to know which are the boarders 
 and which are the profitable fowls, trapnests must be used. The 
 purpose of a trapnest is not to increase the egg production of the 
 present layers but to find out just how well the best of the present 
 flock are laying, in order that the good layers may be identified and 
 mated to males out of good layers, for use as breeding stock to reproduce 
 offspring with better laying qualities than the average of the present 
 flock. Trapnest the breeders for they are going to produce the future 
 layers, but do not force them for egg production. The hen that 
 naturally produces better than her sisters is more prolific and will make 
 the best breeder. The ideal average egg production may be fixed at 
 180 eggs per hen per year, which is considerably above the average 
 production of commercial flocks of 500 or more hens. The present 
 average may be raised towards this ideal by breeding from naturally 
 
 19325 
 
— 2 — 
 
 strong layers, year after year, that lay well-shaped, nicely colored, good 
 sized (2 ounces), strong-shelled eggs; that have good type and abundant 
 vigor, and by mating them to well-grown, sturdy males out of naturally 
 prolific mothers. 
 
 California Trapnest No. 1. — This is a simple box nest costing very 
 little more to build than an ordinary wooden nest. The trapdoor is 
 hinged at the top. To set nest the door is swung inward and held at 
 the bottom by a wire hook (see figure 1) at just the right height 
 so that when a hen enters the nest and walks under the door, 
 her back will raise it up just enough to release the hook and allow 
 the door to swing quietly shut behind her. The door does not close 
 with a bang but slips slowly down the fowl's back and over her tail 
 after the hook is released and as the hen goes farther into the nest. 
 
 Fig. 1. California Trapnest No. 1 (modified 
 Connecticut Trapnest). The end views above 
 show how the trapdoor is set and how the 
 inside stop locks the door from the inside 
 after it is tripped. 
 
 As the door swings shut against the outside door stop (a 3-inch straight 
 screw hook), the inside door stop (a bent piece of No. 6 wire) drops 
 down (see figure la) and locks it from the inside. 
 
 To release the hen, turn the outside door stop up, swing the door 
 outward and catch her in the two extended hands as she comes out. 
 Then tuck her under the left arm, slide the left hand under her breast 
 nod seize the shanks at the hock joints. Hold the shanks up, read and 
 
6 
 
 note the legband which should be placed with the figures upside down 
 on the fowl 's leg so that it may be easily read when the fowl is held as 
 here described and then let her go. When saving eggs for hatching 
 the hen number, pen number and date are usually marked on the large 
 end of the egg thus 268/27/2-10, after releasing the hen. At other 
 
 
 
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 Fig. la. Working plans of California Trapnest No. 1. This drawing shows a 
 wooden door as shown in Fig. 4 instead of the wire door illustrated in Fig. 1. Either 
 style may be used. Bottom of trap door is hung 5% inches above bottom of nest 
 when set for Leghorns and other small breeds. For the larger breeds, it will have to 
 be set higher. 
 
 times the egg is simply credited to the hen on the record sheet hanging 
 in the pen. A blank form of record sheet may be secured on applica- 
 tion to the Poultry Division of the University of California. 
 
 To reset the nest, insert a pencil between the door and the side of 
 the nest raising the inside stop with the left hand ; push the door inward 
 with the right hand and hook it in place. Then turn the outside door 
 stop back to a horizontal position. Both the hook and inside door 
 stop should be on the left side of nest to facilitate of setting nest 
 quickly. 
 
California Trapnest No. 2.— This trapnest is similar to the No. 1 
 nest, except that with trapnest No. 1 a 6- or 8-inch platform must be 
 placed in front of the nest for the hen to jump upon in order to get 
 into the nest (see figure 3), whereas with trapnest No. 2 this platform 
 is made a part of the nest thus making it deeper from front to rear. 
 As a result of uniting the front platform and nest into one nest and 
 moving the trap door forward to the front edge of the platform, no 
 
 Fig. 2. California Trapnest No. 2. 
 
 inside stop is needed and the nest is simplified. It takes somewhat 
 less time to run this style of trapnest and release the layers where there 
 are no inside stops to raise when resetting the nest each time, whereas 
 the cost of construction is slightly higher. Further, in operating No. 2 
 nest, the outside stop need never be turned. The necessary turning of 
 the outside stop of nest No. 1 when releasing a hen wears the screw 
 hole larger after a time and it has to be plugged. However, this is a 
 small matter that five minutes' occasional attention will take care of. 
 
 The operation of the nest is exactly the same as that of the No. 1 nest 
 except in releasing the layer. To release her after she has laid, push 
 the trapdoor inward and upward above the hen's head and catch her 
 in the extended hands as she comes out under the trapdoor, just as 
 described above for the No. 1 nest. 
 
— 5 — 
 
 
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— 6 — 
 
 To reset, push the trapdoor inward and fasten in position with the 
 wire hook as shown in figure 2 and 2a. 
 
 The No. 1 style trapnest may be built in tiers against the wall as 
 shown in figure 3, or they may be built under the droppings boards. 
 
 Fig. 3. No. 1 trapnests in a double 
 tier against the wall of the pen. Note 
 platforms in front of each nest. 
 
 The No. 2 style is best suited for use under the droppings boards or 
 on the wall where nests are not tiered. The No. 2 nest can not be placed 
 in tiers because the hen must jump directly into the nest from the floor. 
 There can be no platform board placed in front of the nests for fowls 
 to light on before entering to lay, as is done with the No. 1 nest, because 
 no inside stops are used. 
 
 The reader will notice in the illustrations different styles of trapdoors 
 used. We have experimented with a number of different styles of door 
 in designing these nests and find that the solid door with plain cleats at 
 the top and bottom, as shown in figure 2, to quickly catch the wire hook, 
 and a 1-inch wide opening in the middle (see figure 2) is easiest to 
 make, keeps the nest dark, yet permits of good ventilation, and the center 
 opening enables the operator to readily see into the nest.* The wire door 
 is a good one but lets more light into the nest. The bottoms of these 
 
 *The center opening in trapdoor should be only 1 inch wide so the hen can not put 
 her head through while waiting to be released. 
 
__ 7 — 
 
 nests are made of ^-inch mesh hardware cloth. This permits all dirt 
 and soiled nesting material to sift through as it is broken up and keeps 
 the nest much more clean with less labor. 
 
 -.' " '" * . 
 
 Fig. 4. No. 2 trapnests under the droppings board. Note the absence of 
 any platform boards in front of nests for hens to jump on before entering. 
 Instead they jump directly into front part of nest. 
 
 HOPPERS. 
 
 Dry Mash Hopper. — The dry mash hopper shown in figures 5 and 6 
 is positive in action because (unlike self -feeding hoppers) it can not 
 clog. Self -feeding mash hoppers invariably either clog up or feed so fast 
 that a great deal is scattered on the floor and wasted. This hopper is 
 non-wasting if not filled too full because the J-inch wire mesh grid, 
 which is simply a piece of J-inch mesh hardware cloth, prevents the 
 fowls from hooking the feed out. It will hold a week's supply of mash 
 for 35 fowls when made 2 feet long as shown in figure 5a. It may be 
 made any length desired. 
 
 The Hopper should be placed on a feeding platform 15 inches off the 
 floor so that the hens can not scratch it full of litter. 
 
— 8 
 
 III 
 
 Pig. 5. California Dry Mash Hopper. The piece of g-inch mesh hardware cloth 
 is laid on the feed to prevent the fowls hooking the mash out and wasting it. 
 
CQOtO-SECTOn 
 
 CALIFOftfllA PRY MA3H HOPPEG 
 
 Fig. 5a. Working plans of California Dry Mash Hopper. 
 
 Fig. 6. Showing dry mash hoppers in use. Observe 
 15-inch high platform to keep hoppers up off ground where 
 they will not be scratched full of dirt and litter. 
 
 Grit or Shell Hopper. — This is a simple self-feeding hopper with a 
 wooden lip on the front edge of the opening where the fowls feed to 
 prevent them from hooking the grit or shell out on the floor (see figures 
 7 and la). This style of hopper works very well with shell and grit 
 because they feed easily and do not clog in the upper part of the hopper 
 so readily as ground mill feeds. The grit will always feed well in this 
 style of hopper but if the oyster shell used is rather fine, it may clog 
 slightly in the narrow part of the throat of the feeder. If the attendant 
 will look at the hoppers occasionally as he passes through each pen no 
 trouble will be experienced. Properly constructed, this is one of the 
 simplest and most satisfactory grit or shell hoppers that can be used. 
 
— 10 — 
 
 Fig. 7. Grit or shell hopper. 
 
 Fig. la. Working plans of grit or shell hopper. 
 
 Chick Mash Hopper. — The chick mash hopper shown in figure 8 is 
 extremely simple and answers the purpose in every way. It consists 
 merely of a shallow box or tray in which the grain or dry mash mixture 
 is placed. The J-inch mesh hardware cloth which is cut ^-inch smaller all 
 around than the inside dimensions of the bottom of tray, is laid on top of 
 the feed so as to prevent the chicks from scratching the feed out on the 
 ground, yet they can get all the feed in the tray as they want it by 
 picking through the hardware cloth. Care should be taken not to leave 
 the edges of the hardware cloth too rough or they will scratch the chick 's 
 
 Fig. 
 
 Chick Mash Hopper. A hopper 2 feet long, 5 inches wide and 
 \\ inches high, inside dimensions, is a very convenient size. 
 
— 11 — . 
 
 feet. The edges might be bound with a narrow edging of galvanized 
 iron at but little extra expense. Only as much grain or dry mash should 
 be put into the trays each day as will be consumed that day. Then 
 each night they can be scraped out clean with a shingle or a fifteen-cent 
 scraper ready for use the next day. These trays are being used at the 
 Experiment Station for all chicks from the time they leave the incubator 
 until they are half grown and able to use the large mash hoppers. If 
 it is desired, they may be made wider for the older chicks, but the size 
 shown is very satisfactory and easily handled. 
 
 Fig. 9. Catching Hook (after Cornell), 
 
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 *7 Wire 
 
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 Zft. * I ft. * Zft 
 
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 Fig. 9a. Working plans of catching hook. 
 
 Catching Hook. — In figures 9 and 9a are shown a catching hook 
 which is very convenient, when properly handled, in catching up birds 
 that the attendant desires to examine or remove from the pen. It is 
 as a rule very difficult to get close enough to a fowl, especially one of 
 the more active and nervous breeds, to pick her up with one 's hands. It 
 generally happens that when one really wants to catch a certain fowl, 
 she simply w T on't let one get within arm's length. With the catching 
 
— 12 — 
 
 hook, one can slip up close enough with much less wear and tear on 
 both attendant and fowl. Care must be exercised not to have the hook 
 too tightly closed or to jerk the fowl too suddenly when catching her 
 for when the hook is thus carelessly used, there is danger of bruising 
 the skin of the shanks or even breaking a leg. Where used with normal 
 care this hook is almost indispensable around the poultry yards. One 
 should be kept hanging on a nail in each pen where it is quickly available 
 in catching sick fowls as soon as discovered or other birds that it may be 
 desirable to move from the pen. 
 
 The Catching Coop. — This coop is a very convenient device to use 
 when treating fowls for body lice, for sorting or for transferring pens 
 of chickens from pen to pen or from one house to another or whenever 
 it is necessary to catch chickens in large numbers. When it is desired to 
 
 Fig. 10. Catching Coop. 
 
 Fig. 10a. 
 
— 13 — 
 
 sort over a pen of fowls, the front end of the coop is pushed tightly 
 against the chick exit, a coop full of chickens run in and the front 
 sliding door closed. The coop may be then loaded on to a wagon or 
 carried to the place where the sorting is to be done. The fowls are 
 taken out one by one through the top doors, examined individually and 
 
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 CATCH IfIG COOP 
 
 Fig. 10 b. Working plans for catching coop. 
 
 distributed as desired. Pens of chicks are quickly transferred from 
 brooders to colony houses or easily sorted by its use. Such a coop must 
 be light in weight, convenient to handle and covered with netting for 
 ventilation so that the fowls will not smother. Rope handles may be 
 fastened on each end for convenience in carrying. The top of the coop 
 is hinged so that it can be raised and the coop easily cleaned when 
 needed. 
 
 A Blood Can for Use in Killing and Picking. — Killing fowls by 
 "sticking" them through the mouth is the usual way of killing for 
 market because the bird is not only well bled but the head is left on so 
 that the buyer can tell the sex as well as gain other valuable points 
 indicated by the head to those who know fowls. In dry picking it is 
 necessary to kill in this way to loosen the feathers. "When using this 
 method of killing the fowl is hung up by the feet with the breast toward 
 the operator. A simple way of suspending a fowl is to hang a stout cord 
 with a cork or circular block of wood f-inch thick by 1-inch wide 
 fastened to the free end, from a beam just above the operator's head. 
 
14 
 
 The fowl is then held head downward with both feet together and the 
 cord twisted aronnd the shanks and caught with the block of wood. 
 The fowl's head is held in the left hand and the "stick" made with the 
 right, after which a blood can (see figure 11) is hooked into the fleshy 
 part of the lower mandible from the outside. This can should possess 
 a sharp hook, be of proper diameter so that there is room to easily 
 hook it in the lower jaw and heavy enough to keep the fowl from 
 flopping around too much. Figure 12 illustrates a very simple and 
 economical way of killing for market; it is adapted to either scald or 
 dry picking and is the method used by large commercial establishments. 
 
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 Fig. 11. Blood can for 
 use in killing poultry. 
 
 Fig. 11a. Working plan of blood can. 
 
 Both hands are free to work with and there is no danger of the bird 
 being bruised by flopping over the floor or against the wall after being 
 stuck. The body feathers are put in the barrel. The wing and tail 
 feathers may be thrown on the floor and swept up later or put in a 
 small box at the side of the barrel. A small can of water can be hung 
 from the side of the barrel by a hook if desired, to moisten the fingers 
 when dry picking. 
 
15 — 
 
 Fig. 12. Blood can being hooked into fleshy part of 
 lower mandible to catch the blood after making the 
 stick. 
 
 Fattening Crate. — In crate fattening the birds are shut up in crates 
 each compartment of which is 3 feet long, 2 feet wide and 18 inches 
 high. Sometimes they are made up in two compartment sections 
 as shown in figures 13 and 13a or they may be made in much 
 longer sections. The crates may be covered on all sides with lath or 
 the lath may be used only in front with the other sides covered with 
 1-inch netting. The strips covering the front should be run vertically 
 so that the fowls can poke their heads through and eat out of the trough 
 in front. The strips are spaced 1| inches to If inches apart for half 
 grown fowls such as broilers and fryers, and 2 inches apart for mature 
 fowls. Small market stock of the lighter breeds, such as broilers and 
 small frys can often squeeze through strips 2 inches apart. While 
 slats may be used for the bottom, J-inch hardware cloth is much more 
 sanitary and easy to keep clean and costs but a fraction more. The 
 crates are usually placed two and three deep in the fattening house 
 and a pan 1 inch deep and of the same size as the bottom of each com- 
 partment is placed directly underneath the bottom of every compartment 
 
— 16 — 
 
 to catch the droppings which fall through. These pans can be pulled 
 out and cleaned every day without disturbing the birds. This arrange- 
 ment keeps the coops clean and sanitary and the birds need not be 
 
 Fig. 13. Two compartment fattening crate complete. 
 
 E«ck, Tef, a„<l £>,/. 
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 meih Net tinf. 
 
 FATTENING CRATE 
 
 Fig. 13a. Working plans of two compartment fattening crate. 
 
 disturbed from the time they are put in till they are fat enough for 
 market, the cleaning and feeding all being done from the outside. 
 
 The feed troughs can be made from ordinary 5-inch roll rim galvanized 
 iron roof gutter cut to proper length and with ends soldered on. The 
 local tinsmith will make such troughs at small cost. 
 
 Figure 13 illustrates a two-compartment, portable crate with feed 
 troughs in position and one of the pans for catching the droppings 
 partly pulled out. In figure 13a the methods of construction are shown 
 in detail. 
 
— 17 — 
 
 Supply Can. — Where a poultry raiser has a number of pens of fowls 
 to feed and has to carry a big pail of grain from pen to pen, he is not 
 only performing labor daily that could just as well be done once a 
 week and with a wheelbarrow or horse and wagon, but at the same time 
 
 Fig. 14. Supply can for grain or mash. These views show two covers. The small 
 cover at the rear was added to make it easier to pour feed out of the can as it is 
 difficult to pour feed through the front cover on account of the slanting top. It 
 may be made with either one or two covers as desired. 
 
 Fig. 14a. Working plans of supply can for grain or dry mash. 
 
 is wasting much valuable time unless he can gather the eggs and do 
 the feeding on the same trip. However, where there are many eggs 
 to gather it is usually necessary to make two trips ; one to feed and one 
 to gather eggs. 
 
 2—19325 
 
— 18 — 
 
 By having in each pen a supply can large enough to hold a week's 
 supply of grain for that pen and a dry mash hopper large enough to 
 hold a week's supply of mash, the mash hoppers and supply cans need 
 only be filled up once a week and the feed can be hauled in a wagon 
 or cart. The poultryman can then walk from pen to pen each morning 
 with his hands free for other things and scatter the right amount of 
 grain to the fowls in each pen from the supply can in that pen. At 
 night he takes his egg buckets, gathers his eggs and feeds as he goes 
 along from pen to pen on the one trip. 
 
 Where each pen of fowls is large enough, bins may be built against 
 the wall and arranged so that they can be filled from the outside. A 
 galvanized iron or wooden barrel also makes a good supply can. The 
 supply can illustrated in figure 14 may be made any size desired and has 
 a slanting top that fowls can not perch upon. If not too large it can be 
 hung on the wall out of the way. Where one would like to know the 
 amount of feed eaten from week to week by any given pen or pens, 
 the amount of feed put in supply can and hopper at the beginning of 
 the week, let us say Monday morning after the morning feed, can be 
 weighed in and the amount left at the end of the week (Monday 
 morning after the morning feed) weighed back before weighing in a 
 new supply. In this way accurate records of the feed consumption 
 per pen or flock can be kept and also of the relative consumption of 
 grain and mash. 
 
 Fig. 15. Hatching Egg C 
 
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— 20 — 
 
 Hatching Egg Cabinet. — In figure 15 is shown a labor-saving egg- 
 turning cabinet for saving hatching eggs in. Where a great many eggs 
 are set each season and they are all turned by hand, considerable time 
 is required each day to turn them while they are being saved for the 
 incubators. With the device illustrated, over 2,000 eggs can be turned 
 at the same time by simply revolving the table on its axle. As can be 
 seen from the illustrations, the table is divided into eight compartments 
 with every compartment containing eight ordinary egg-case fillers, 
 holding three dozen eggs each. Each compartment is again divided into 
 8 smaller sections by J inch by 2J inch strips notched to fit together 
 where they intersect (see drawing). Each of these small divisions 
 holds one 3-dozen size egg-case filler. By having the table divided up 
 in this way into unit sections of three dozen capacity it is very easy to 
 keep eggs from special matings or special pens of breeders by themselves 
 while being saved, a very convenient arrangement. Double faced cor- 
 rugated card board is used to line the inside of the table and as partition 
 walls between the upper and lower compartments. Ordinary harness 
 snaps are used to fasten the covers when shut. Before turning the 
 operator wants to be certain that every cover is firmly fastened. 
 
 Egg Sorting Table. — In sorting eggs, especially for incubation, it 
 is often convenient to have a table on which the eggs may be sorted 
 and on which they will stay where put without danger of rolling around 
 or on the floor. The table shown in figures 16 and 17 is one that has 
 been especially designed for this purpose. Persons who are doing trap- 
 nesting, pedigree breeding, keeping pen records of breeding stock as 
 a substitute for trapnesting, will find such a table very useful in 
 systematically arranging and recording eggs for the incubator. 
 
 Marking Eggs. — To clearly and easily identify hatching eggs from 
 trapnested or pedigreed stock, a uniform system of marking should be 
 adopted. As soon as the egg is removed from the nest it should be 
 marked on large end with the hen number, pen number, date or any 
 other information that is needed in identifying that particular egg. 
 Example 281/7/3-24; hen number 281, pen 7, March 24. 
 
 In sorting these eggs for incubation, certain hen's eggs may be grouped 
 into a separate incubator and the progeny toe marked when hatched, 
 each hen's eggs may be set separately in pedigree trays and the offspring 
 marked, or the eggs for each incubator may be arranged systematically 
 on the sorting table in numerical order with each hen's eggs together 
 and then transferred to the incubation record in the same uniform 
 order. By thus recording the number of each hen's eggs set and the 
 n umber of infertile, of dead germs at first and second test, dead in shell, 
 and chicks hatched, a complete record is secured of the fertility and 
 hatchability of the eggs of every breeding fowl in the flock. In the 
 
21 
 
 Fig. 16. Egg Sorting Table. Note double top. The upper half of this 
 double top is made in sections which slide in strips nailed to the lower part of 
 table top. Only the upper sections have holes in them. The lower part is a 
 solid smooth table top which is held firmly in place on the horses by cleats 
 which fit closely into notched slideways on the horses. 
 
 Fig. 1' 
 
 One corner of the egg room showing egg sorting table, egg scales 
 and end of hatching egg cabinet. 
 
— 22 — 
 
 same way by hatching the eggs from certain pens or groups of hens 
 served by certain strong males in separate incubators, toe marking them 
 when hatched and keeping mortality records by means of the toe marks, 
 very efficient, yet easily secured pedigree records of the breeding flock 
 may be kept and consistent improvement secured in the flock as a whole. 
 
 Egg Candler. — For candling market eggs or to test hatching eggs 
 during incubation an electric candler is a great convenience. The one 
 illustrated is not only very simple in design but permits of full use of all 
 of the table top on which the work is being done. The candler is 
 supported above the table on a verticle piece of pipe which also acts as 
 a conduit for the electric wires. The holes in the bottom of the box 
 throw plenty of light on the trays of eggs without in any way interfering 
 with the operation of candling, another big advantage. A candler which 
 throws light only through the one opening and leaves the trays or boxes 
 of eggs in darkness, causes a waste of time in feeling around in the dark 
 for the eggs and often results in a good deal of breakage. 
 
 
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 Fig. 18. Electric Egg Candler or Tester. 
 
— 23 
 
 STATION PUBLICATIONS AVAILABLE FOR DISTRIBUTION. 
 
 REPORTS. 
 1897. Resistant Vines, their Selection, Adaptation, and Grafting. Appendix to Viticultural 
 Report for 1896. 
 
 1902. Report of the Agricultural Experiment Station for 1898-1 9C1. 
 
 1903. Report of the Agricultural Experiment Station for 1901-13. 
 
 19C4. Twenty-second Report of the Agricultural Experiment Station for 19C3-C4. 
 
 1914. Report of the College of Agriculture and the Agricultural Experiment Station, July, 
 
 1913- June, 1914. 
 
 1915. Report of the College of Agriculture and the Agricultural Experiment Station, July, 
 
 1914-June, 1915. 
 
 No. 
 
 170. 
 174. 
 178. 
 184. 
 
 185. 
 
 195. 
 197. 
 
 203. 
 
 207. 
 
 208. 
 211. 
 
 212. 
 213. 
 216. 
 
 220. 
 
 No. 
 65. 
 69. 
 70. 
 
 76. 
 79. 
 
 80. 
 82. 
 
 83. 
 
 87. 
 
 91. 
 100. 
 101. 
 
 106. 
 
 107. 
 
 108. 
 109. 
 
 110. 
 111. 
 
 113. 
 114. 
 115. 
 117. 
 
 118. 
 
 BULLETINS. 
 No. 
 
 Observations on Some Vine Diseases 
 
 in Sonoma County. 
 Tolerance of the Sugar Beet for Alkali. 
 Studies in Grasshopper Control. 
 A New Wine-Cooling Machine. 
 Mosquito Control. 
 Report of the Plant Pathologist to 
 
 July 1, 1906. 
 Report of Progress in Cereal Investi- 
 gations. 
 The California Grape Root-worm. 
 Grape Culture in California; Improved 
 
 Methods of Wine-making; Yeast 
 
 from California Grapes. 
 The Grape Leaf-Hopper. 
 Report of the Plant Pathologist to 
 
 July 1, 19C9. 
 The Control of the Argentine Ant. 
 The Late Blight of Celery. 
 How to Increase the Yield of Wheat 
 
 in California. 
 California White Wheats. 
 The Principles of Wine-making. 
 A Progress Report upon Soil and 
 
 Climatic Factors Influencing the 
 
 Composition of Wheat. 
 Dosage Tables. 
 
 225. 
 227. 
 230. 
 234. 
 241. 
 242. 
 244. 
 246. 
 248. 
 
 249. 
 250. 
 251. 
 
 252. 
 253. 
 
 254. 
 255. 
 256. 
 
 257. 
 
 258. 
 259. 
 
 CIRCULARS. 
 No. 
 
 The California Insecticide Law. 119. 
 
 The Extermination of Morning-Glory . 121. 
 
 Observations on the Status of Corn 
 
 Growing in California. 122. 
 
 Hot Room Callusing. 
 
 List of Insecticide Dealers. 124. 
 
 Boys' and Girls' Clubs. 125. 
 
 The Common Ground Squirrels of 126. 
 
 California. 127. 
 
 Potato Growing Clubs. 128. 
 
 Alfalfa. 129. 
 
 Disinfection on the Farm. 130. 
 
 Pruning Frosted Citrus Trees. 131. 
 
 Codling Moth Control in the Sacra- 
 mento Valley. 132. 
 
 Directions for using Anti-Hog Cholera 
 
 Serum. 133. 
 
 Spraying Walnut Trees for Blight and 134. 
 
 Aphis Control. 135. 
 
 Grape Juice. 136. 
 
 Community or Local Extension Work 
 
 by the High School Agricultural De- 137. 
 
 partment. 138. 
 
 Green Manuring in California. 139. 
 
 The Use of Lime and Gypsum on Cali- 
 fornia Soils. 
 
 Correspondence Courses in Agriculture. 14C. 
 
 Increasing the Duty of Water. 
 
 Grafting Vinifera Vineyards. 
 
 The Selection and Cost of a Small 141. 
 Pumping Plant. 
 
 The County Farm Bureau. 
 
 Tolerance of Eucalyptus for Alkali. 
 
 Grape Vinegar. 
 
 Enological Investigations. 
 
 Red Spiders and Mites of Citrus Trees. 
 
 Vine Pruning in California. Part I. 
 
 Humus in California Soils. 
 
 Utilization of Waste Oranges. 
 
 Vine Pruning in California. Part II. 
 
 The Economic Value of Pacific Coast 
 Kelps . 
 
 Stock Poisoning Plants of California. 
 
 The Loquat. 
 
 Utilization of the Nitrogen and Or- 
 ganic Matter in Septic and Imhoff 
 Tank Sludges. 
 
 Deterioration of Lumber. 
 
 Irrigation and Soil Conditions in the 
 Sierra Nevada Foothills, California. 
 
 The Avocado in California. 
 
 The Citricola Scale. 
 
 The Value of Barley for Cows fed 
 Alfalfa. 
 
 New Dosage Tables. 
 
 Mealy Bugs of Citrus Trees. 
 
 Commercial Fertilizers. 
 
 Availability Studies on Nitrogenous 
 Fertilizers. 
 
 Winery Directions. 
 
 S( me Things the Prospective Settler 
 Should Know. 
 
 The Management of Strawberry Soils 
 in Pajaro Valley. 
 
 Alfalfa Silage for Fattening Steers. 
 
 Aphids on Grain and Cantaloupes. 
 
 Spraying for the Grape Leaf-Hopper. 
 
 House Fumigation. 
 
 Insecticide Formulas. 
 
 The Control of Citrus Insects. 
 
 Cabbage Growing in California. 
 
 Spraying for the Control of the Wal-. 
 nut Aphis. 
 
 When to Vaccinate against Hog 
 Cholera. 
 
 The County Farm Adviser. 
 
 Control of Raisin Insects. 
 
 Official Tests of Dairy Cows. 
 
 Melilotus Indica as a Green Manure 
 Crop in Southern California. 
 
 Wood Decay in Orchard Trees. 
 
 The Silo in California Agriculture. 
 
 The Generation of Hydrocyanic Acid 
 Gas in Fumigation by Portable Ma- 
 chines. 
 
 The Practical Application of Improved 
 Methods of Fermentation in Califor- 
 nia Wineries during 1913 and 1914. 
 
 Standard Insecticides and Fungicides 
 versus Secret Preparations.