^^V.V; ■ .'*'*■' ^^ * ?.*■* '■*C •*** ^2 *■ ;? R/l/j oners. Adrrrtiscmcnts. ST. JOHN'S, N. F. Wholesale & Retail Dry Goods. DRESSMAKING! MILLINERY! MANTLES! Provisions and Groceries : I.AIUiKST stock: I.OWKST PliK'KS! Cordage, Chains, Anchors, Glass, Paints and Oils, and all goods required for the Fisheries and Farming. Building- Material ! ! ! ALL KINDS OF MECHANICS' TOOLS! No lioiiie should be without or no vcssol shoulrt sail without a supply of BKECH A>I'S PII.LS. TliPi-e is no better inerticiiie liitown. We are s«)le Agents. SPECIAL NOTICE. ( 'nslouins rrsiiliug in OutpoitN can ^;ave the trouble and ex- |K'use of coining to St. Jolin's, by sending order and money vo. registered letter or Post Ottice OrIS -Ciisli with order.-. t>r a]i]ir<>vc(l C'if.v ri'loroni-es. Ai/r>rh'sniicnt-<. EJsTAIU.ISlIKI) lS,'.->. Thos. McMiirdo & Co., \A/holesal<3 and Dispensing CMEIVIISXS. TT^ULL stock.- cif Drugs ami Clieiuicals ot all kinds always (..n -^ liaiid. English and Anieiican Patents and Piopiietoiy Gdoils of i-epntt-. Dry Paints, Stains, VarnislK-.-, ^'v:^. Agricul- tural, Garden and Flower Set-ds. Fl()\wringBullis in their si-ason. ^^' Careful and laonqit attention to Outport orders. IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIMIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIinilllllflllMliinilllllllilllilil Marine and Family Medicine Chests. iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiitiiiiiitiiiiiiiiiiiiini Water-St., St. John's, N. F. Cabinet-makers, oisterers, GENERAL HOUSE FURNISHERS. DUCKWORTH AND GOWER STREETS. ^Lih'i'ii ixi'jiti'iif.-<. lippii & Geierel MMi t!!!!lil!!;il!ll'l!!lliniilllinilllllli:illllllll!llllllllllllllllllllllllliii! Water Street, St. John's, N. F. iiiiiiiiiiiiiiii:[iii!!;ni!i;i[iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii;iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiir Importers and Wholesale and Retail Dealers in all kinds of Canadian & American Goods. (iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii; Our Departments are replete with the largest stocks in town of Dry Goods, Hardware, Groceries, Provisions and Ships' Chandlery. Agents for the Liverpool «& London & Globe l>s"SUR^^NCE CO. LLOYDS' AGENTS. Adirrfiso/icvts. Li) Alia. llli'^ WATER STREET, ST. JOHN'S, GENERAL IMPORTER OF GOODS, GROCERIES, PROVISIONS, LIQUORS, &c., is now occupying: his New Premises Wlieiv lu' invitfs insjirclidii ol'liis lui-yc .'-tuck. ('(jJtisli, Oi! ;ui.l LtilistL'is inuTliascd at market lates. W'liaiTai^i- ami Sfoia^i^i- ar- i-Ciiiini(iiLatinii. I'li-misrs all new ami rcnti'allv .-itiiatcil. J. F. ClIIHllOLM, WATER SXKEET, - - ST. .lOHN'S, XKWl'Ol NDLAM), rMPORTER and Dwilcr in Stati(Hm-i-y and PxK.ks of all kinds ;. J- Peiiinlicals. ilnsic, C'liaits and Xantical ^^'('l■ks, Fancy (loods, Toys, Walking Sticks, Trout and Salmon 'J'acklc, Piju^s and Siuokc'Vs' Snndries. Books, i'criodicals, Music, &c., supplied to order iiromjitly, at lowest casli jirices. Order.- lilled with (le>]iatrli. li!STABI.I.SHKI) ISnS. TlTCALT^iVirAX, DEAlJOIl IX STOVES A^NTI3 TINWARE, W]ioleH>S. I . r\ n James Angel. , Te,.pho„,. : . A. P. Brown. ' DOCK. Xo. 48. SXaiJK, No. rr, . I ' ' '■■■""■■ JAME S ANGEL <& CO. ST. TOMB'S ORY DOCK. Til.' L.argest Dry Do.-k on iliis si.le tliL- Alhuitif. LuiiKtli. owr all, 610 ft ; wiiltli of eiitr.inre, S-1 tt. 9 in. : Dejit!! nf water on sill at onliiiarv tides, 24 feut. T ARdE SHEDS \uv tli.' stor;iuv i.f Frfi-ht. Evrry facility -*-^ for Slii]i Vfpaii--. Vessel^ (if any size ivijuiriug repairs Avitliout D(X-ka<^t' i/aii lu- laid aliiiijj; Stores for 'leck or engine room alwavs on liaiid at the Doek or at our En- gineers' and Mill Furnishing Stores -No. 7 Water Street West. Fi'iends and sti-angers are always welcome to examine the Dock, with its sjilendiil Pum])ing House and Work Slio[)s, where jii'e cai-i-ied rill all classes of Engine and Fonndiy work and the manufactui-e of any reipiisite for llie smallest fisjiing sdiooner to llie largest >teamshi[i. Late Sliip]iing an\nd sliown with pleasure to those interesti-d. At oui' l^ngineei-s" and Mill Furnishing Stores are kept a large -toek of liiviss (tooiIs for Engines and Steam Fittings : all >izes of Iron Pipe am! Fittings ;' I'.elting, Oils, Steel Bar Iron. Every class of (Joods in our line. Mai.diinery f(a- Saw Mills: 1 loi-ting Engines for Mines; Boilers for Land an<-0-CM>«--(><'-fr<>-0-0-0-«-(><>-<> <^<>-0-6-0-0-0-<><)-0-<>H?H><<►os►-6•6^■*^♦ — i>KAi.!;:;s ix- Drv Goods, Hardware, Provisions, (rroceries, and Ships' Chandlery. Aguf- iui- ill,' \\i-ll-k(ln\\ii liiiii ,,r W'ii. HorxsELi. & Co., I'.ridpi't, Liiii' -iiiil l\\iiii' iii;iii;i['urlui'crs. In lie alinvc (l(']iartiiHMits a lai-gv ami \ai'it'(l ai^sovtineiit of all classe;ot" gonils is kcjit: wliicli aiv miI.1 at thi; smallest inarfi-iu of ■profit. For all kinds uf ])i-(,.lure, sii.-h as FISH, OIL, HER- RIXC, SALMON, LOBSTEKS. FURS, we pay the liigliest ]irice> HaviiiiT exeelleiit facilities Icu- doing lutsiness in our new [>reni~es, -we gurrantee satisfaelion in all de[tai'tnients tij those ivvho nay tavur us will: their patroirige. Adrcrtisements THE ST. JOHN'S CONFECTIONARY. FRUIT A.VD FLOWER STORE : FRED C WOOD, Proprietor. Maimractui'ci- ami liii]i(iiU'r nf ,K^^ CONFECTIONERY — »J. (if suiMTioi' (|iialit\. AGENT FOi; Xl'lJt. <>!■ THE .Vol'.l SioTIA XI'IISE Choice Ice Cream, Soil.i WmU-i- with p in' Fiuir Syniii>. ;uul all ki New Fruit in se;isrin. CITY CLUB BUII.I>INiild. GARLAND BUILDING: ITT Watkk Stkket East, and ■2'j(> Watki! Sthket, "\\'i:st : Ay A. ^ Fine Tailoring. SNOW & CO., Harness and Trunk-Mckers, 422 Watep. Street West, St. John's, Xewi-oundi.aM'. A lull >tork on hand of HARNESS, HORSE CLOTHING, STABLE WEAR. Repairix(t a Specialty. WM. CAMPBELL, (.SrcCE.^.sciI; TO THE I.ATK HKNliY ULDEU:, Ships supplied promptly. Ships' Stores on hand. Satisfaction guaranteed. 350 - Water Stkei:t. .St. .1i>h.\"s. Xi;wfoi xhlaxh. - ;550" One Door Kast of General I'ost Otti< e. NEWFOUNDLAND AS IT IS IN 1894: A HAND-BOOK AND TOURISTS' GUIDE. THE REV. M. HARVEY, LL.])., F.R.S.C'. .■1 1'JlKjr <,/'' Te:d-Bn«l: of XeirfiMrnJhi„J IL'ytnri/ ; J rtides " Xeirjlund' hmd,'' " Lahraihyr," and ''Seal Fisheries of the World," in Encj/chipaedla Uritannim ; " Lectureff Literary and Biogra- phical ; " Where are v:e and Whither Tending;' and line of the authors of " XeKfonndland — The Oldest British Col .,1,/:' WITH COLOURED MAP. ST. JOHN'S, X.F. J. AV. WITHKKS. gillKN-; PKIXTKK. 1894. PREFACE. In tlie lollowiuf,' ]>A'j,{:.s I liavc ainicil iit prcseutiiig, in a irioilerate -Miiiliass, a (•oiiii)i-elieusivf ami trust-wortliy account of Xewl'ouiidlaiul as it is at the present time. In ; so it was necessary, of course, to refer to its history and to trace its jirogr.-.-s in tlie past, so as to understaml how it canie to be wliat it is in 1894. I have devoted a consiilerible jporlion of tlie volume to a ile-;criptioa of t>ie natural resources ancl capabilities of tlie Island. These have been largely overlooked or mis-represented ; ami, as a <:onsequence, under- valued and neglecteii. 'L'lic ai-count giv^ii in tliese jiages of the agricul- taral and mineral resour.-i-s of th.i country ami of its forest wealth, will b-' a surprise to many, i have endeavoured, however, iu dealing with the subject, to secure strict a -curacy of statement, and to be guided solely Ity ficts and ))y the liighesi and best authorities. Tliese natural resources, as I believe, are siicli as Viarraut us in ])redicting a bright and jirosperous future lor the Calony now that the eonstruction of railway.s has opened its agricultural, mineral and forest lands, and prejpared a way for enter- prise and capital to turn tlicm to |)rotitalile account. 1 lia\e also dwelt on tlie grand staple industry of the Colony — the tislieries, — and gi\cii a full account of their [iresent comlitioii and pros- jiects in tlie future. Tiie French Treaty Rights on certain jiortions of the ■ihore and their ettects on the Colony, have received iliie attention. (>tlier topics dealt with are education, finances, trade and comnierce, govern- ment, pulilic institutions, population, and tlie general Ijusiiiess of tl'.e ..•(luutry. Ill the i'lia]iter for travellers and tourists I have dwelt on the tine scenery of the Island, and given such information and directions as ai'e requireil for enabling them to see the country to the best advantage. There cari be little doubt that, in the near future, Xewfouiidland is de.s- tiiied to holil an important jilace as a health-resort during its summer months, and as a country which presents rare attractions for the tourist and the sportsman. Xuniei-ous lines of steamers now remler access to its shores easy, and the extension of its railway system and local steam com- municatioii ]ilace within reaidi of visitors from other lands all that is attractive and interesting in the beauty of its scenery. A residence of over forty years in the Colony has given ine oppor- tunities of becoming ac(|uaiiiteil with the country anil the peojile. It will be a source of gratification to me if this little volume sliould aid in making the country better known ami attracting to it that attention which it richly merits. AI. H. tiT. John's, .Iulv, 1894. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I HISTORICAL SKETCH. Tack The Aborigines ; The Xortliiiieii : Tlie Coining of the Wliite men : Tlie tirst lisliernien : Sir Hiuii]ilirey (iilliert ; TheFreneli in Newfoinni- land ; Historic Misfortunes ; I'njnsl L;nvs ; Dawn of better days . 7 CHAPTER II. PHYSIOGRAPHY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF THE ISLAND. Geograiiliieal ]>osition ; Its niountain-ranges, rivers, lakes, etc. : Geo- logy ; Climate ... ... ... ... ... ... 24 CHAPTER HI. ROADS AND RAIL\A^AYS. First roads ; Beginning of Railway construction ; Railway to Harlioiir Grace ami Placentia ; The Great Northern and Western Railway — its rotite, character of the country traversed ; resources to be developed ; land, minerals, tindjer ... ... ... 4-3- CHAPTER IV. AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES AND FOREST WEALTH. Western Newfoundland ; Fertile Valleys ; Coal Fields ; Mineral De- postts ; Exploits, Gander and Gambo Valleys ; Value of Agricul- tural Products ; Prospects of Cattle and Sheep Puaising ; Forests . 89 CHAPTER V. MINERAL RESOURCES. Eise and Progress of Mining Industry ; Copper Miues ; Gyjisum and Marble ; Iron Pyrites at Pilley's Island ; Discovery of Asbestos ; Coal Areas ... ... ... ... ... ... 12-3 C()STKSJ<. CHAPTER VI. THE CROWN LANDS- ACTS. TAcr. Purclia.-e of L;iiiing ... 212 CONTEXTS. CHAPTER XII. EDUCATION. Pace Srliools — Acaikiiiif<— CollfLTes — Leg'islative Grants I'm' Ediicatidii ... 220 CHAPTER XIII. Post Ottiee D^partiiiriit : Coiistal)iilary ; Light Hcjuscs ; Banks; Xi-ws- jiaiier Press ... ... ... ... ... ... 22d CHAPTER XIV. SCENERY. Attractions for Travel lers and Tourists; Likeness to Norway; Tlie Inland as a liealtli-resort ; Ojiinions of travellers on Seeiiery ; The v.eather ; London " Times'' on NewfoninUaml ... .. 233 CHAPTER XV. DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. How to see the Country ; Rout.'s of Travel ; Steamship Lines to Eng- land, Halifa.x", New York, Montreal ; Coastal Steamers ; St. John's — Objects of interest there, its .streets, buildings, etc. ; Industries ; Drives and walks in vicinity of St. Jehu's ; Signal Hill ; Qaidi Mdi : To Torliay ; Portugal Cove ; Petty Harbour ; Renews : E.\- cursions by Sea — We.steru Route to Bonne Bay ; Northern Route to Battle Harbour and Labrador ; Moravian Mission stations ; Grand Fall.s, Laln'ador ; Railway E.xcursions from St. John's to Harbor Grace, thence to He.art's Content ; Working of Cables — Instruments ; Rejiairing Cables ; New Cable of 1894 ; Heart's Delight — Scene of Josejih Hatton's ''L'lider the Great Seal"; Dildo Hatchery ; Placentia, its tine Scenery ; History ; Curiosi- ties ; Relics, etc. ; Richard Brothers the Mad Pro] diet ; St. John's to E.xiiloits ; Northern and Western Railway ; Stations and Dis- tances ; Fishing ; Hotels in St. .John's ; Trip to St. Pierre and ^liqnclon ; Descri]ition of the Islands ... ... ... 245 CHAPTER XVI. SPORT IN NENA/TOUNDLAND. Wild Geese and Ducks ; Curlew, Plover, Ptarmigan Sliooting ; Deer Stalking; Salmon Fishing ... ... ... ... ... 291 APPENDIX. No. 1 — Erratum ; New Cable ; Stock Exchanges, London and New York, connected hy CaVile ; Talile of Lengths of ( 'ables. No. 2 — Scenery; Pay of I-skands ... ... ... ... ... 295 ■NEWFOUNDLAND AS IT IS IN 1894: A HAND-BOOK AND TOURISTS' GUIDE. CHAPTHi; r. HISTORICAL SKETCH. AltOKIGIXAI. XKWFOIXOLAXD. .Shovi.d it Ik- askfil : Wlio wciv llie very first liiiinau iiilia- liitants (if ill is laigc island ; to uliat race oi- nation did they belong ; and what \ww their appearance and haliits ; what plane of civilizaliun had they reacdied :' ^Ve are unahle to answer these (piestions. History enables us to go back only to the arrival of the first European ex]ilorers, and to describe the inhabitants found l)y them in possession of the island some four hundred years ago. But it is (piitc jtossible and even likely that other races may have preceded the Red Indians who were occupants of the soil when the "palef>ices" first trod these shores-, .and these may lia\-e disap])eared, leaving no trace behind, after playing their ])art for many centuries on this narrow^ stage of being. "We know something about the latest comers, but all is .eloudland as regai'ds any earlier tribes. GEOr^OOICAl, CHAXGKS. AVe have more records in the rocks, regarding the earlier • changes through which this ])ortion of the globe has passed, than .of the evanescent human lieings who first trod its surface. — •Geology has much to tell us of vast transibrmations during the .aeons of the past ; of the seas flowing over much that is now diy land ; of the bottoms of old Camln-ian and Silurian seas now elevated inli) hill-ranges ; of vast denudations sweeping 8 IIISTOltlCAL SKETCH. away later fonuatious ami s|(iva(liiig tlie wrecks over the floor of ocean ; of volcanic operations that lironght to tlie sui'face the- mineral-bearing rock.s, placing the precious ores M-ithin tlie reach of man. Aliove all, geology lias much to say aliout an ice-age^ (towards the close of the Tertian), when Newfoundland, in common with many nciglibouring lamls, was luide]' a liuge ice-cap many hundreds of feet thick, just as Greenland now is, and during which glaciers foi- Imndreds of centuries were shap- ing its valleys and scooping out its hays ami lakes and (>overing much of its surface with hoidders of Archaean rocks. Tliesc glaciers have left their grooves on the rocks, hy which tlieir course can still be traced. This ice-co\cring ;it lengtli l>egan lo' shrink as the climate grew milder, and finally disappeared. Plants and animals, different from any now I'xisfing, lived and died. Sj)ecies followed species, of whicli we can trace some faint outlines in the rocks. Whether any Jiuman eyes looked on them we know not ; lait, if so, they, too, passed away leaving no memorials of themsehes. And when those daring voyagers crossed the stormy Atlantic and reached this sea-girt isle they found it inhalnted by a race in all resj^ects resendiling the savage tribes of the neighbouring North American continent, and evidently belonging to the same stock. These early ex- plorers from Europe for a long time believed that the coiintry they had discovered was not a new continent, but the eastern £ihores of Asia, or India, as it was named, and hence they called the whole inhabitants, both in North and Soiith America,. "Indians." From their complexion the northern tribes were afterwards designated "Red Indians," and the whole tribes "American Indians." THK IJEOTHIKS. The Indian race found in NeAvfoundland called themselves Bcothiks. This Avas their tribal name. Their features resembled those of the continental Indians. They had high cheek bones, email black eyes, straight black haii', and were of a copjun-color. Their weapons, canoes, tents or wigwams and domestic utensils resembled those of neighbouring tribes on the continent. Their HISTOIIICAL SKETCH. 9" ]ial)its of life -were alike in many ivsjiccts and tiny iivcil liy hunting and ti.sliing. Among learned men who have ytudied carefully the few relics which have l)een ])reserve(l, and examined the meagre and un- certain vocal mlaries which contain all that remains of their language, there is a difference of opinion as to Avhether they were a branch of the wide-spread and warlike Algonkins who once occupied nearly the whole of Canada and a larg(? portion of the United States, or whether they wei'e a separate and older race of Red men, who had at an unknown (hite migrated to this island, where for many centuries they sustained tliemselves and increased in numliers. There is a certain aniounl of evidence in favour of the latter view, hut no certainty <'an now be reached. CONUITIOX OF THE 15KOTHIKS. When Cabot discovered the island, in 1497, the Beothiks were a numerous and powerful race, well-[)ed jihysicallv, inge- nious and of (piick intelligence, gentle in tlieir manners, tracta- ble, and not indisposed to friendly intercourse witli the pale faces. They had lived for unknown ages luimolested. The island with its abundance of Avild creatures of all kinds, its shores and countless lakes swarming with fish, was to them a very i)aradise. Countless herds of the finest rein(h'er wandered over the savan- nas of the interior, in their anuTial migrations. The ponds were abundantly stocked with bea\er ; the lordly salmon crowded the rivers ; vast flocks of i)tarmigan and other game birds Avere every- where met with. Wild geese and ducks in the early sj^ring arrived in myriads from tlie south. Tlie Beothiks must have revelled in savage abundance, Ijeing " nmnarchs of all they sur- veyed." They jiractised no agriculture ; but the wild berries, in their variety and luxuriant growth, su2)plied them with abun- d.ance of vegetalde food. The skins and furs of the wild animals gave them abundant clothing. With their spears, clubs, bows and arrows, slings, and many ingenious devices for cajituriug their prey, they were rarely in \A-ant of food and clothing. New- foimdlaud is still a tine sporting country, l)ut what must it have been in the time of the Beothiks ! 10 msTorJCAL sketch. SrFl'KKIXGS OF THIC BEOTHIKS. The coming of iIr' wliite uv-n .>^ence interfered witli tlnnr pursuits. The poor Beothiks \v(Me treated with the most brutal cruelty nm\ for a long pei'iod were regarded as vermin to be hunted down and destroyed. Such treatment led the Red Man to deeds of tieice retaliation and " war t<:) the knife "' became the ])ractice l)et\veen tlie two races. In such a conte-t the weak must go to the wall. Their wea])ons coidd avail litth' against the tireai'ms of the white man. (Gradually theii- muubfrs were reduced and tliey were driven from the ]>e^t limiting and fisliing grounds. Famine and disease thinned tlieii' rank.-. THE RACK FXTIXCT. Wlien at lengtli, in m-j,lern days, the spirit of humanity awoke jiml attempts were nuule in 1760, and renewed up till 18-^3, to eonciliate the Red Men and save the poor remnant from destruc- tion, it proved to be too late. Sad experience led them to dis- trust and hate the white men, and they could jiot be apjji'oached with kindness. In despair the forlorn band that remained re- treated to their last refuge, at Red Indian Lake ; and here they died, one by one, till not a living re^jresentative of a once vigorous and warlike race remained. There is no darker chap- ter in the history of the white man's progress in the New AVorld than that which records the fate of the unhappy Beothiks. A 3IKLANCHOLY IJKCOKD. In 1828 a final effort was made to i)]>en communication with n remnant of them wliich were supposed to still survive. An expedition was organized which penetrated to llu'ii' last retreat TIISTOl.'lCAL sKpyrcH. 11 at Red Indian Lake. Only tlieir graves and the mouldering le- laains of their wigwams were i'unnd, liut no living Ik'uthik. Silence deep as death reigned avonnd. There were i'ragiuents (if their oanoe.s, their skin y John Cabot, a Venetian hy birth, who was in the seiviee of Henry VII. of England. On the 24th of June following, hearty English cheers greeted the first sight of the Island of Newfoundland. Thus liy right of dis- ■covery it belonged to England, but it was not till 1583 that it was formally taken possession of by Sir Humphrey (jill>ert, in the name of Queen Elizabeth. This gallant English Knight had formed the purpose of colonizing the island, but misfortunes •overtook him and when returning to Englan I>lSCOVERIES. Not so with the French who followed u]) these fisheries with vigour and success. In 1577 the Fieiich jwid 150 vessels eniidoy- HISTORICAL SKETCH. 13 j-(l, wliik' English ti si ling vessels nuiiibei-ed only 50. The great wealth which Fiance Avas deriving from these seas led her to form new and extensive designs of colonizing North America. On the Accession of Henry IV., the tirst Bourbon, the cod-fishery was placed under the protection of the government, and was regarded .as being of great national im})ortance, and such it has been ever since. Her great explorers pushed on their discoveries. Cartier .disc(i\-ei'ed ("anada and secured it for France, who helil it for 225 yeai's till (^hiebec fell before the conquering arms of Wolfe, '("hamplain, l)e Monts, Manpiette, La Salle followed till the iterritories claimed by Fi'ance extene- rior tyjie. His settlement, however, was so much harrassed hy the" French that he l)ecame disheartened and returned to Englaml ; hut nearly all the colonists he hrouglit Mith him remaint-d to in- crease the resident ]iopidation. SIR DAVID KIKKE. The brave sea-captain — Sir David Kirke — olttained the next chai'ter from Charles I. in 1638, and it conveyeil a grant of the Avhole island. He did much to promote the settlement of the country and governed wisely. He tlieil at Fenvland in IGGo,-. at tlie age of fifty-six. THE FRENCH IX NEWrOUNDLANXJ. All this time the French had been struggling to found an em- l)ire in the New Worhl. In doing so they never lost sight of a l>roject early formed for the conquest of Newfoundland. The jjcssession of it they knew wonhl enable tlieni to control the fish- eries, and also to command the narrow entrance to the St. Law-- rence and their Canadian possessions. Hence tliev never ceased their efforts to obtain a footing in the island ; and llieir jiresence' and encroachments were a constant annoyance to the English settlers. As early as 1635 the Frencdi managed to obtain ])er- mission ti'om England to dry fish on the shores of the island, on jjayment of a duty of five per cent, on the produce, which duty was afterwards remitted. In 1660 they founded Placentia on the" .southern coast, and erected a strong fortification for its jnotection. From this centre they succeeded in jilanting other settlements on the same shore. iJesperate eftbrts were made liy them again and again to effect tlie con([uest of the island. Their successes, how- ever, were short-lived ; and though they cajtturcd St. John's more" 16 ni.STOKICAL SKETCH. than once they were si)ee(lily driven out and their expeditions resulted in diffajipoiiitnieiit. TREATIES OF UTRECHT ANI> PARIS. Tlie Treaty of Utrecht (1713) marked an important era in the liistory of the island. By one of its provisions the French agreed to surrender all their possessions in Newfoundland and the ad- jacant islands, and to retire from Placentia. Thus the sovereignty of the whole island Avas secured to England. But even after France liad fought her last battle on the heights of Abraham, and her white flag no longer waved on the continent of North Am- erica, she clung jiertinaciously to the idea of conquering and holding Newfoundland, well knowing its value in the prosecution of her fisheries, which she still i-egarded as the great training school for seamen. So late as 1702 they organized a final expedi- tion for the conquest of the island. They succeeded in capturing 8t. John's which was weakly garrisoned ; but it was soon wrested from them by a strong British force desi)atched from Halifax. Thus ended the last attempt of the Frencli to gain jiossession of the island. The Treaty of Paris (1763) ended "the seven years war," and France I'enounced all claims to Canada, Acadia, Cape Breton and Newfoundland. TRENCH TREATY RIGHTS. Unfortunately, however, these treaties failed to deliver the Colony from the French troul>les which had so long disturbed the settlers and retarded the prosperity of the country. Though the Treaty of Utrecht left the Fi'ench no territorial rights, it gave them tlie right of fishing and curing fish on the western, northern and north-eastern shores of the island. This, which was con- ceded at first as a privilege, encouraged tlio Fi-ench to push their claims to the sole right of fishing on the treaty-shore which the colonists strenuously rejmdiated. Bitter disputes have thus been engendered, which have gone on till the ])resent hour and ai-e still unsettled. The practical effect of this unfortunate concession has been that the people of Newfoundland have been A'irtually exclude(l from the fairest ami most vaUuible i)ortiou of tlie IIISTOKH'AL SKETCH. 17 i.-*lau(l, ami that tlu'v ronld iieitlirr jaoM^Mite the tislR-nes tliere, ;.settle the lands, nor carry on mining or any other imlu.sky. The "Frencli Shore (Question" as it has been calloolicy, wliitli wa< backcl by English laws, re- .(piires some explanation. From the first the tisheries had been .<;arried on by merchants slnp-ownei's and tiaders from the west of England. Each year they sent out ships and fishing-crews from England. The fish caught was salted and dried ashore. AVheu w inter approached the fishermen toi)k their departure tor England. These English "merchant-adventurers" as they were .enlled, found that it was for (heir interest to discourage the settlement of the country, as they wished to retain its harbours .ami coves for the use of their own lishing captains and servants, .and thus sx-ure a very proHtalile monopoly of the whole tisheries. 18 HISTOIJTCAL SKETCEI. Tills sy.stein went on for generations till tliese mercliant-niono-- polists began to fancy that the whole island Avas their own, anil that any one who settled there was an interloper whom they were warranted in dri\ing away. Being wealthy and powerful they had great inHuence with successive English governments of those days. They were able to persuade the statesmen and ])eople of England that (lie hsheries would he ruined if a resident popula- tion shoidd be allowed lo grow up in the island, and liiat they would no longer bi- a nursery of seamen for tlu- Royal Navy. Further, they misled tlu' English Governuu-nt and peojile l)y rejiresenting the island as liopelessly l»arren, and in n-gard to its- soil and climate, untit for being a i)ermanent residence for human beings, but a very convenient rock-mass for curing and diying codfish during the suuimcr season. SICTTLKMKNT I'KOHIBITKI). In this way it came about that unjust and injurious laws were- enacted by the English ( Hivt-ruuient to ]>revi-ut the scttlciueut of the island and to keep it forever in the degraded condition of a stage for drying tish. These laws forbade anyone to go to New- foundland as a settler, and ordained that all tishermeu should return to England at the close of each fishing season. Masteis of vessels were comixd led to give bonds of £100, Innding them to bring back eatdi year such persons as they took out. Settle- ment within six nules uf tlie coast was jirolubited under heavy penalties. No one could cultivate or eiu-lose tlic smallest piece of ground, or even repair a house without license, which was' rarely granted. CONFLICT OF SKTTLFUS AN'I> MEKCH VXT-ADVEMITUF.KS, Notwitlistanding tliese liardships and disenura^cments the sturdy .settlers held their ground and slowly but steadily in- creased in numbers. Between them and their oppiessors a liitter' autii^athy .sprang up, and it is not M-oiiderrul that it shonhl have- been so. There weiv among them men of a manly indei>eiident sjtirit, who carrieitalist>, and at last coiupiered them and won their' HISTORICAL SKETCH. 19 dreedoni. Tlio coiiliict, however, was very trying and extended .ovt'r one Imndred and tifty years, entailing teriilile sulferings on tlie settlers, who were ke])t outside llie ]iale of law and without i\nx eivilizing intluences. lVrhaj).s tlie worst feature of the mis- rule of tliose days was the government hy Fishing Admirals. It was enacted that the master of the iirst sliip entering a harhour was to he Admiral for the season, and Magistrate of the district, with nnlimited ]>ower to decide all t^uestions regarding jn'operty iind all other ilis])utes. From llieii- decisions there were no ap- ])eals. These rmli- and ignorant >kippers weiv the ser\'ants of the merchant-adventurers and, therefore, personally interested iu .([uestions of ju'operty that arose. They were the enemies of the poor resiilents whom they wanted to tranii»le ont. They took possession of tlie ])f<{ fishing-stations, and frequently drove out the inhaliitants from tlu-ir own houses and fishing gi'ounds. Tliey todk lirilies wlien determining cases and carried on for long years ;i, system nf nililrcry and uppi-i'ssjou. How could the iConntry make any progress under such conditions I The lot of the poor fisherman was very hittei'. In tlieir little wooden ham- lets sprinkled around the sea-margin, they conld liardly oljtain the liarest sulisistiaice. Tlicv had no schools for their children and no ministers of religion among tliem. All around them wei'c the deirse woods extending to the sea-shore with a few paths cut throngh them. Before them the great ocean from which alone lliey wei'e permitted to draw their means of sulisistence. DAWN OF BETTER DAYS. They lield on, however, and courageonsly resisted their selfish oppressors ; and at last the day of deliverance dawned. The Government and peojjle of England discoverele points from which to carry on the seal fish- ery in spring, the value of which approaches at times a million dollars annually. MOUNTAIN AND HILI. RANGES. Passing now from the rugged coast-line to the outer interior of the island, we find a country whose general cliaracter is hilly, Init the eminences do not reach any great elevation. Further inlaml, the interior x>i'oper is found to be an elevated undulating plateau, traversed by ranges of low hills, the surface being diver- sified by valleys, woods, ponds and marshes. All the great hill- 28 PIIYSIOGKAPnY. ranges liave a N. N. E. and S. S. W. trend ; and all the other great phyt-ical features of the country, such as the bays, larger lakes and rivers and valleys, have a similar direction. Probahly this conformation has been shaped by glacial action during the Ice-Period. The most important range of mountains is the Long Range which commences at Cajie Raj', and runs in a continuous chain in a north-easterly direction for 200 miles, terminating in the Petit Nord peninsula. Some of its summits reach a height of 2,0u0 feet. Outside the Long Range but parallel to it, and nearer the west coast, is the Anguille Range, running from Cape Anguille to the highlands of Bay St. George, with summits 1,900 feet high ; and the Blomidons extending along the south coast of the Humber Arm, Bay of Islands, some of whose summits reach a height of 2,084 feet, l^eing the highest in the island. The Mid- dle Range stretches across the country from Fortune Bay to Notre Dame Bay. The Black River Range runs from Piper's Hole, Placentia Bay, to Clode Sound in Bonavista Bay. From one of its isolated peaks called Centre Hill, 1,081 feet high, may be seen in a clear day, the bays of Placentia, Fortiiue, Bonavista, Trinity and Conception, and 150 lakelets may be counted. The view is exceedingly fine. The Avalon Peninsula is traversed by an east- ern and western range. The former commences at Renews, on the eastesn coast, and extends for over twenty miles to Holyrood at the head of Conception Bay, having at each end a rounded hill named the " Butterpots," about 1,000 feet high. The westei-n Avalon range begins at St. Mary's Bay and terminates at Chapel Arm, Trinity Bay. Its principal summits are North-East Moun- tain, 1,200 feet, from which 67 lakes are visible. Spread Eagle Peak, Trinity Bay, and the Monument. Over the interior are distributed a number of isolated sharply peaked summits which spring abruptly from the great central plateau, and are very serviceable as landmarks in guiding the Indian or the siiortsman on their line of march. They bear the local name of Tolts. Some of the more conspicuous of these are Hodge's Hill, on the Exploits, (2,000 feet) ; Mount Peyton (1,670 feet), west end of Gander Lake ; Lobster House, Hind's Pond ; Mount Musgrave PHYSlOmtAPIIY. 20 Tliero are other minor ranges and detached hills, such as that running along the south shore of Conception Bay by Portugal Cove to CajDe St. Francis ; Sawyer's Hills south of Placentia ; South-side Hills running from Torbay to the Bay of Bulls, of which Signal Hill (520 feet) is a summit ; Branscombe's Hill, near St. Jolin's (870 feet) ; and Chisel Hill, St. Mary's Bay. Tliese numerous mountain and hill ranges show that the country has undergone many disturbances and dislocations of strata, dur- ing the geological ages. RIVERS. It is a common mistake to suppose that the island contains no large rivers. It is true that, compared with its size, large rivers are few, Init the want of these is amply compensated for by the numerous bays which pierce the land in all directions. One cause of the scarcity of large streams is the Ijroken hilly character of many portions of t!ie country. Down the small valleys flow the streams from tlie pond or set of ponds in their neighbour- hood, forming numerous brooks which thus find the nearest course to the sea. Still there are three large and important rivers — the Gander, the Exploits and the Humber — and a nundjer of others whose drainage and size fairly entitle them to be classed as rivers. EXPLOITS RIVER. The liighest land is on the west coast ; and the Long Eange chain forms there the watershed, causing most of the rivers to How north-easterly or easterly towards the east coast. The largest river is the Exploits which rises in the extreme south-western angle of the island near the .southern extremity of the Long Eange and after a course of more than 200 miles falls into Exploits Bay, in Notre Dame Bay. It drains an area of l;etween 3,000 and 4,000 square miles. At its month it is a mile wide and gradually nar- rows to an average of lialf a mile which it maintains for ten miles. For this distance from its mouth it is studded with islands, the largest being Tliwait Island, nine miles in lengtn. Fouiteen miles foom the mouth are Bishop's Falls, a succession of cascades, the total height being about twenty feet. Some twenty miles 30 PHYSIOGRAPHY. higher up the river the Grand Falls are met with, presenting one of the finest and most picturesque scenes in the island. Now that it is made accessible by the railway, it is sure to become a favourite resort of tourists. Seventy-two miles from the sea the river issues from Red Indian Lake which is itself 36 miles in length, its surface being 468 feet above the sea and its total area 69 square miles. This large river receives numerous tributaries, some of which from their size i-ank as rivers. It has long been famous tor its salmon. THE HUIVIBER. The next largest river is the Humber, which falls into the Humber Arm of the Bay of Islands, after draining an area of 2000 square miles. Its main branch rises 20 miles inland from Bonne Bay, and after a circuitous course of some 70 miles, it falls into Deer Lake, which is fifteen miles in length, and from thence it flows majestically to the sea through magnificent scenery. The Gander, the third of the large rivers, is 100 miles in length, and after flowing through Gander Lake, 36 miles long, it falls into Hamilton Sound. With its tributaries it drains an area of nearly 4,000 square miles. GAIklBO AND TKBKA NOVA. The Gambo is a small river flowing from Gambo Pond. Terra Nova is a considerable stream noted for its rapids, falling into Bonavista Bay. Rocky Rivar takes its rise in Hodge Water, a large lake in the peninsula of Avalon, and falls into the Colinet Arm of St. Mary's Bay. The scenery at Rocky River bridge and along the river's course from that point to the sea is unsurpassed. Colinet River falls into St. Mary's Bay. Numerous rivers discharge their waters on the southern coast, Ijut having short courses they rush in turbulent torrents to the sea. The principal of them are Bay-d'-Est River, Bay-de-North, White Bear and La Poile Rivers. Many of them make a fall of 1200 feet in a distance of 20 miles. CODROY BIVEKS. On the west coast the principal rivers are the Codroy, which rises in the Long Riinge, and after flowing through a feitile valley riiYsioGiiAriiY. 31 ot" the same name, falls into iLe Gulf of St. Lawrence ; the River St. Geoi'gc and Harry's Brook I'all into Bay St. George. LAKES AND PONDS. One of the niof^t remarkable of the physical features of the island is the immense number of its lakes and ponds. They aie so numerous that ■were the island mapped out in detail, more than one-third of the whole surface would be represented by water. They are found in every possible position — -in the mountain gorges ; in the de[)ressions between the low hills ; in the valleys ; and frequently in hollows near the tops of the highest eminences. They are of all sizes, from tiny j^ools and lakelets to sheets of water nearly sixty miles in length. In many districts they form a very beautiful feature of the landscape. From the tops of some of the highest hills, fi'om fifty to one lum- dred and fifty lakes and ponds may be counted. These bright gems dotting the expanse of country, are generally over-hung with dense woods. It is generally believed among geologists that they are relics of the Ice Age, and were scooped out by glaciers when the island was loaded with its ice-mantle of two or three thousand feet in thickness. GRAND LAKE. The largest lake in the island is Grand Lake, iifty-six miles in length and five in bi'eadth, with an area of nearly two thousand s(juare miles. Its surface is but fifty feet above the sea-level, while at its deepest portion the bottom is more than three hundred feet Ijelow the level of the sea. Many brooks emj)ty into it, but it has only one outlet — Junction Brook, which joins the Humber. Its south-western extremitj^ bears about north- east from the head of St. George's Bay, from which it is distant about fifteen miles. It coiitains an island 22 miles long and four to five miles in breadth. Its shores are densely wooded, arrd its scenery at many points very beautiful. RED INDIAN LAKE. Red Indian Lake, thi-ough which the River Exploits flow?, is 37 miles in length, with an area of 64 square miles. Around its 32 pHYsioaRArnv shores are forests of fine timber indicative oC a I'ertile soil. Gander Lake is 33 miles in length, and covers an area of 44 square miles. Its hanks, and those of the Gander Elver -whicli flows througli it, present immense tracts of the finest agricultural and timber lands in the island. Deer Lake, through ^vhich the Humber Hows, is 15 miles in length, and has an area of 24 square miles. The land around it is fertile in the highest degree. Sandy Lake, Victoria, Hind's, Terra Nova and George Fouith Lakes range next in size. SOLITUDES INVADED. Tlie shores of these great lakes, and the valleys through which these large rivers flow, are still absolute solitudes, except where recently the lumbermen's camps have invaded them. Their pine forests have been left to rot or perish by fire, and the fertile soil, Mdiich might sustain thousands of people in comfort, is un- touched by plough or spade. All is primitive wilderness. This is, to some extent, accounted for by the fact that, until a com- paratively recent date, the very existence of fertile lands in the interior, or of forest-growths of any value or extent, or of metallic or non-metallic minerals in the rocks, was unknown, and by many was questioned or vehemently denied. Xow that the great re- volutionist, the railway, has obtained an entrance, all this will be gradually changed ; the wastes will be occupied, and human industry will make them " blossom like the rose." GEOLOGY OF NEWFOUNDLAND. The Geological Survey of the island, which was commenced in 1864 under the late Alexander Murray, C. M. G., F. G. S., and is still continued by Mr. James Howley, F. G. S., constituted a new epoch in tiie history of the country. To it we are largely in- debted for trustworthy information regarding the agricultural and mineral resources and the forest wealth of the island, wliich is slowly but surely revolutionizing people's views on these j^oints and has led to the introduction of the railway system, and the application of capital and enterprise to a moderate extent, to the development of its great natural cajmbilities. While the survey has been conducted on strictly scientific principles in working TOPOGKAPIIICAL. 33 out the distribution of the various rock i'orniatious and delineating these on maps, as tlie essential preliminary step, it aimed from the outset at the economic application of geological research and the realization of practical results. TOPOGKAPHICAL 8UKA EY. In such a country, much of wliich was unknown, a topographical survey was found to be indispensable, in order to construct a cor- rect map upon which to delineate the boundaries of the geological formations, and other\\-ise represent the structural details. This topographical survey whicli was combined with the geological, led Mr. Murray and Mr. Howley to scale the principal water courses, keeping up a connected system of triangulation from all the most consj^icuous heights, and thus on their map the whole of the great features of the island were accurately laid down. In carrying out this work, the officers of the survey were led to ex- amine the surface of the country — the character and extent of its fertile belts — its forests and extent and position of its minei-al bearing rocks anowerfully-built, robust and hardy race, is a good example of its intiuence." The climate of St. John's, it .-liould 1 e reiiiL-uiliered, is not a fair standard by which to judge of the whole island. It is on the most eastern pt)int in the peninsula of Avalon, and therefore 42 CLIMATE. most exposed to the chilling influence of the Arctic Current. At the heads of the gi'eat bays, in the interior of the island, especi- ally in the sheltered valleys, and on the west coast, the climate is much Avarmei- than at St. John's. In St. George's Bay the mean annual temperature for the year is 43-8 degrees ; that of Toronto is 44-3 degrees. Mr. Howley, the present head of the Geological Survey, in one of his reports says : " I myself spent four months during the past season in the interior without experiencing a genuine foggv day, until reaching witliin twenty miles of the southern side of tlie island. During tlu' entire months of July and August, the weather in tlie interior was delightful, while logs prevailed at the same time along the southern shore." The railway surveyors who have been engaged during tlie lasr two years in locating the new railway, all speak in glowing teiins of the deliglitfid climate of the interior in summer, and its free- dom I'mni foLis. CHAPTER III. ROADS AND RAILWAYS IN NEWFOUNDLAND. I^' iiu otlu^' country lias tlie material and social advaiLceiiient of the people been so seriously retarded Ijy the want of roads as in Newfoundland. Tlie original settlement of the island took jdace entirely in connection with the fisheries. The gathering in of the sea-harvest was the onh' industry contemplated or attemjjted. Around the shores fishermen, chieHy from England and Ireland, collected at first in hamlets and small villages, situated in such localities as were found best adapted for catch- ing, drying and shijiping fi.sh. These, as they multiplied and the population increased, were dotted around the shores of the great bays, or wherever there was a sheltered inlet where fish could be landed and the fisherman's stage and hut erected. Sprinkled thus along an extensive seadjoard, tliey were generally widely apart from each other, and intercourse was maintained mainly or entirely by sea oi by rude paths through the woods between neighbouring settlements. BAD LAWS. Had the clearing and cultivation of the soil been combined with fishing, the construction of roads would have become a necessity ; but the unhappy policy adopted by the Imperial Government, at the prompting of the English capitalists who carried on the fishei'ies, effectually prevented colonization. The policy was to keep the island solely as a fishing station in order to train seamen for the British navy. All grants of land were pro- hibited, the cultivation of the soil made a penal oflfence, and a vigorous attempt was carried on for a long period to remler the fishery migratory by carrying home the fishermen at the close of each season to return the following summer. SLOW PROGRKSS UNDER DIFFICULTIKS. In .->pite of these stupid, selfish laws the resident population in the fishing villages continued to increase and in many instances 44 liOADS AND RAILWAYS. tliuse givw into small towns. St. Jolnvs in particular made great strides. The laws, however, against the cultivation of the soil, and the erection of dMolling houses, were enforced up to the be- ginning of the present centmy. In 1790 one of the Governors 2)ublicly announced that he "was directed not to allow any possession as private property to l^e taken or any right of private projjerty ^vhatever, -to Ise acknowledged in any land whatever which is not actually employed in the fishery in the terms of the Act, 10 and 11 William III." In 1799, Governor Waldegrave ordered fences which had been erected enclosing a 2jiece of ground to be torn down, and jirohiliited chimneys even in the tenqjorary sheds. The people were thus confined to the sea- margin, in small isolated settlements, the only inter-communi- cation being by sea. Though the progress of the Colony was thus seriously retarded, still the hardy pioneers held their ground and increased in nuudjers, thus proving that there were among them men of the right stamp for building up a new com- munity — men of moral worth and force of character, who saw in the midst of their rough surroundings that here was a spot which might one day be made into a desii'alile home for themselves and their children. THK I>AWN. A liettcr day at length dawned. Tlie foolish and cruel laws were relaxed, and in 1813 grants of lands to settlers were for the liist time permitted. Agriculture on a small scale immediately commenced around each settlement. Those who Avere interested in keeping the country unsettled had all along sedulously incul- cated the lielief that both in regard to climate and soil the island was wholly unsuited to agriculture. This view was speedily disproved when restrictions were removed, but to this ilay is not wholly eradicated. A NEW ERA— ROAD MAKING. It was soon found that no pi'ogress could be made in the culti- vation of the soil till roads were constructed. The year 1825 \\-a.> rendeied lueinortible by the coustructiuu of the tirst road, kOADS AXJ» I'vAILAVAYS. 45 nine miles in lengtli, iVuni St. John's to Portugal Cove, on the southern shore of Conception Bay. On the opposite shore of this bay Avere the thriving towns of Harbour Grace, Caibonear and Brigus, the centres of a considerable population. By establish- ing a regular system of boats to cross this bay, carrying mail* and passengers, a route was established Ity which nearly half the population then living in the country were provided with a rough means of comuiunication. To Sir Thomas Cochi-ane, Governoi-, belongs the honour of introducing this essential step in civiliza- tion. He also constructed a road to Torbay, a village north of St. John's ; and a third along a beautiful valley through which Hows a small stream falling into St. John's harbour, to a spot now called Waterford Bridge. This beginning of road-making took place only 69 years ago, liut the progress made since has been remarkable. Year after year roads radiating from St. John's in several directions were built, along which farms and neat farm-houses soon became visible. One of these roads ex- tended first to Topsail on Conception Bay, thence to Holyrood at the head of the bay, and onward to Salnionier, St. Mary's and Placentia. Efforts were made by the more distant settlements to connect themselves with each other by roads, though often of a very rcngli description, and to establish means of connnunica- tion with the capital. When Representative Government was established in 1832, an annual grant Avas voted for making and repairing roads and bridges ; and of late years over 0150,000 per annum, have been devoted to this purpose. The Great Northern Mail road, for establishing communication with the people of the northern bays, was projected and commenced. At present there are about 1,000 miles of postal roads, and over 2,000 miles of district roads. THOUGHT WIDKXING. Road-making, witliout wliich no country can advance or make progress in other arts or in social life, though of late introduc- tion, has had a most important civilizing influence in this Colony. Still these roads only connected the fishing towns and settle- ments on the coast, and hail little effect in opening up the good 46 KOADS AND KAILWAYS. lands of tlie interior for colonization or in developing the natural resources of the Island. As the })eople inci eased in nundjers and tlieir views and asjtirations hegau to widen, the question presented itself : Were tliey doomed to cling fore^•er to the rocky shores and content themselves with a jirecarious sub- sistence derived from the stormy dee]) ? Was -it not possible to turn to some profitable account their huge territory of 42,000 square miles, and not leave it furever to the bears tlie wolves, and the deer ? Must the inteiior remain furevei' an unpeopled solitude where so many of the population were finding the pro- ducts of the fisheries inadequate to give tliem daily bread ? If it be true, as so many have reported, that there are in the in- terior noble forests, rich mineral deposits and fertile lauds, must these all remain as nature has placeults. In 1892 tlie value of the ore exjtorted ac- cording to the Customs' Iveturns was .^1,006,592. It must further lie considered that mining operations have hitlierto been mainly confined to the shores of Notre Dame Bay. The in- terior, now to be opened up by railways, is still untouched, and may be expected to prove rich in minerals. I'KOSPKCTS OF MINING. Tlius science is pointing out Newfoundland as likely to lie- come one of the copper-bearing regions of the world has been confirmed by actual experiment. It presents a, wide develop- ment of that metalifei'ous zone M'hich in other North American countries has yielded abundance of valuable mineials. The area of the serpentine rocks, in connection with which all the cojjper ore hitherto has been found, is estimated by Mr. J. Howley, Geo- logist, at 5,097 scpiare miles. There is reason to believe that this serpentine formation runs across tlie island, and in the yet unex- plored interior it may come to the light in many places. A KAIIAVAY LOOMING DIMLY. After being thus a mere fishing station for some 250 years, without farms or roads, the fringe around the coast began to be intersected with roads, and the cultivation of the soil made some progress. Then followed the revelations of the Geological Sur- vey, which could not lie disputed, and were confirmed in many points liy the Avorking of the copper mines, by which wealth began to be poured into the country ; and also by the introdiic- tion of lumbering establishments along the larger rivers. Wider views regarding the destinies of the country began to lie enter- tained among those ■who were; at the head of afi'airs. The neces- sity of ]iioviding other means of sustaining the population than the fisheries liad Ijeen felt for some time. TJie population was rapidly increasing, while their mainstay— the lisheries^showed HUADS AM) UAIIAVAYS. 4^ uiimistiikalik- syiiiptuiu.s of (lecliiiu, or, id best, were precarious. The idea ol' a railway began to Hoat dimly befoi'e tlie iiiiuds of some of tlie more tliouglitful, but was at first spoken of with bated breath lest its ailvocacy might expose the bold innovators to the snsjticion of insanity. By the great mass of the people the project of liuilding a railway was at first regarded as utterly beyond the means of the colony. Short-sighted people declared it wouhl bring no returns and would speedily involve the country in bankruptcy. The opponents of i)rogress and change I'egarded it witli liui'ror. FLEMING'S PKOJECT. A proposal made liy Mr. Sandford Fleming, who was then Engineer-in-chief of Canadian railways, hel[ied to fannliarize the puljlic mind with the idea of a railway across Newfound- lanil. This eminent engineer puldished a paper in whicii he pointed out tliat the shortest and safest tra\-el-route ))et\veen America and England was across Xewfoumlland. He suggested a fast line of steamers from A\ilentia, Ireland, to St. John's, N.F., carrying only j>assengers, mails and light express matter. Thence he pro])Osed to Iniild a railway across the islan liAILAVAYS. railway system in the face of strong oppo.sitioii, but of persever- ingly carrying it out for more than fourteen year-s, as a prominent feature of liis jiolicy, undertook to grajijjle with the matter in earnest. His first jjrojjosal -was, in following the lines laid down liy Mr. Fleming, to offer an annual subsidy of £120,000 and liberal land grants along the line to any company that would construct and operate a line of raihvay across the island to be connected Ijy steamers with England on the one side and on the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on tlie other, with Canadian railways. The Imperial Goveinmeut, however, refused to sanction this project on the ground that it might be regarded by the French as an infringement of their fishing rights which wei-e secured by treaty on the west coast where its terminus would be. The project, therefore, had to be abandoned. THK HALL'S BAY LINE. Two more years elapsed, and Sir William Whiteway, finding that the project of constructing a line across the island which woulil be a link in tlie chain of comnumicatton between tlje Ohl and the New Worlds, could not then Ije carried out, decided on building a narrow-guage railway suited to local recpiirements, and such as the Colony itself could undertake. The resolutions which lie submitted to the House of Assembly projwsed the construction of a railway from St. John's to Hall's Bay, the centre of the mining region, with bi'anches to Harbour Grace and Brigus, the total length of which \\ould be about 340 nnles. Such a line would o])en up for settlement large areas of good lands and valuable and extensive timber district's in the valleys of the Gambo, Terra Nova, Gander and Exploits, ami by con- necting the mining region with the capital, would impart a great impetus to mining industry and give access to new mineral lands as yet unexjilored. REPORT OF PAKLIAMENTARY COMMITTEE. A joint-committee of Ijoth Ijranches of the Legislature was ajjpointed to consider the proposal. Their report was strongly in favour of such an enterjnise. It pointed out the necessity of ROADS AND RAILWAYS. 51 opening up new iudiistiie-; for the cni]>loyniont of the increasing l»opuhvtion, for wliose sujiport the fislieries were now inradeqnate. It referred to the mineral wealth and tlie great extent of fertile lands which the Geological Survey of the island had made known ; to the large importations of agricultural produce and live stock, almost all of which could be raised in the country ; to the advantages the island possessed as a grazing country, and the facilities of exporting live stock to England ; and to the benefits that would flow fiom the remunerative employment i'urnished to tlie people by tlie construction of a railway. It concluded by recommending tlie passing of an Act authoiizing a loan of the amount required to construct tlie line within the limits of one million pounds sterling, and in sums not exceeding half a n^illion of dollars in any one year. Tliis report was adopted Ijy the Legisl.iture l)y an overwhelming majority of botli blanches. Railway tVimniissioneis were ajipointed and Engineers were omployL-d in the summer and autumn of 1880 iu making a pre- liminary survey of tlie southern portion of the ])i-o])0.-ed line. FIRST RAILWAY CONTRACT. A new era was thus initiated. The Colony took a fresh de- paiture in the direction of progress. The long-neglected natural resources of the island were now to be turned to profitable account. The horizon Avidened in the eyes of the people, and confidence in a great i'uture for the country was developed. The funds necessary for the building of a railway were to be raised by a loan on the credit of the colony, and the Ooveinment was to direct and control the work. To t!ii«, howevei.grave objections of a i)olitical character were raised. It was considei'ed by many that the construction of the line would be more economically carried out by a contract, and that the work would prove more satisfactory. When the Legislature met in February, 1881, tin- tender of an American Syndicate for building the railway was accepted. The leading features of the contract were as follows : A line f>r narrow-guage railway (3 feet G in.) to run Irom St. John's to Halls Bay, with branches to Brigus and Harbor Grace : 52 ROADS AND RAILWAYS. the distance estimated at 340 miles. Steel rails of the hest fjuality to he used. A money sid)sidy of ^180,000, to Ije jiaid half-yeai'ly hy the Government for thii'ty-five yenrs, eomlitional on the otRcient maintenance and ojteration of the line, the pro- l^ortions of this subsidy to attach while the railway is in course of construction ; and as each five miles are comjileted and ap- proved, land gi'ants of five thousand acres per mile of good land to lie secured to the company in alternate blocks along the line in (piantities of one mile in width and eight miles in deptli ; and if not obtainable along the line, to 1)l' SL-Iectrd elsewheie. The company bind themselves to Imild a sul)stantial and etticient road, subject to approval liy a (Juvi-i'uuient Inspectoi', and to complete it in five years. FIKST SOD CUT. The tirst sod of the railway was turned on the 9th of August, 1881. By September, 1882, thirly-tive miles were comjileted and in running order ; one humlred miles were located, and the remaindei of the line northward was under survey. In Novem- ber, 1884, the line was completed and opened for traffic between St. John's and Harbour Grace, a distance of 83a miles. The work of construction led to tlie distriljution of large sums as wages among the labouiing classes who were employed : while the trailing classes also shared in the lienetit. The enterprise Avas regarded with general approval throughout the comiunnity ; and the passenger and goods traflie on the line develo]>e(l at a satis- factory rate. FINANCIAT. TROUIiLKS. Soon after, unfortunately, the "Newfoundland Railway Com- pany "got into financial difficulties, and woik on the line was discontinued. Legal proceeding- followed : tlie company jnovcd unable to fulfill their contract, and finally the pru'ti'ju of tlie line finished passed into the charge of a Keceiver on liehalf of certain bond-holders in England, who held a mortgage on it. Tender tliis airangeiiienf it has lieen most satisfactorily operated till tlie present time, and lia\-.ing a >ub'r set in some ten or fifteen miU'S were l)uilt. Sill AV. AVHITEWAY AGAIN riiEMIEK. Tlie general elections took ])lace in XnvcmbL-r, 1889, witli the result that Sir William Wliiteway was again called on to taki' the reins of government. He s])ecilily sliowed tliat he had lost none of liis {ormcr confidence in railwav extension a< a means of developing the I'esources of the colony. An Act was passed in the .session of 1890 ])ro\i(ling for the eoiistiuetioii of a line ol' railway tinmrd^ Hall's liay, with a luancli to Prigus or Clarke's Peach, autlioi-iziug a loan of .S'4,.")00,000, anreviously surveyed. NOKTHKRN A>D AVESTKRX KAILAVAY. The governnieiit now decided to cany llie railway west from -.the Exploits. A new contract was entered into with Mr. R. G. Reid, by which lie undertook to "construct and equip a line of .railway commencing at the terminus of the road to be con- structed uniler the Northern Railway contract, fieing a jioint two hundred miles distant from Placentia .function, and running by the best, inost desirable ami most direct route to the north- .east end of Gi*and Lake ; thence to the north-east end of Deer Lake, and westerly along the north side (afterwards changed to south side) of Deer Lake and do\m the Humber River ; thence by way of the north side of Harry's River ; and thence to Pcjrt- .aux-Bas(|ues.''' This contract was signed on the IGtli May, 1893. On the same day another contract was signed, in which Mr. Reid undertook to operate the Placentia branch railway, and also the •" Newfoundland Northern and Western Railway," as the new line from Placentia Junction to Port-aux-Bas(pies was to be .called, for a period of ten years, commencing Sept. 1st, 1893. 56 IIOADS AND RAILWAYS. The wliole k'ligtli ol' ihv ir-w line, tiuiu Placeiitia JuiiL-tiou to" Port-aux-Buficiues, is i-stiiuatvd tu lie aliout tive Imiidied uiik's. THE CONTRACTS. The main features of the contracts were as foUows : — For' construct ini;' ami e(juipping the railway "iiayments shall he made to the coutractoi' U]>ou the completion of each continuous and consecutive section of live nnles, or a fraction of a section at the end of the work, at the rate of §"15,600 per mile of main line, the said payments being in full for all the works and materials provided for under this contract and necessary for the thorough and complete construction and e([ui2)ment of the line of railway herein provided for. All such i)ayments shall l>e made by the government and accepted by the contractor in debentures of the (hnernment of Newfoundland in sterling money of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, maturing on the 1st day of January, 1947, with interest thereon at the rate of three and a half ]>er cent, jier annum, payalde half-yearly ; principal and interest payable in LoikIou, Eng- laml." " Payments will be made to the contractor on the written certiticate of the engineer and the apjiroval of the government that the works have been duly executed." The whole line is to be completed in three years from September 1st, 1893, and to Ite a narrow -guage of three feet six inches. The specifications are .such as will secure a thoroughly safe and well-ecjuipped line. MAINTENANCE AND OPERATION. The contract for maintenance and operation of the Placentia branch and of the Newfoundland Northern and Western Eail- way for a period of ten years from September 1st, 1893, provides that the contractor shall maintain these in a safe, efficient and satisfactory manner, and continuously and etiiciently operate the «5ame (the number of trains to be run being specified) ; also, .«hall erect telegraph lines along the whole line of railway for the purp)oses of its ojieration and work them at his own expense,- and also shall, if ref^uired, work them as part of the government telegi'aph system on certain conditions. On the faithful perfor- KOAliS AND I.'AII.WAYS. ;> ( inance of tliest- c'UgageUR'iit- the i;(ncriiiiiciit ;il;icci1 "to giant in fee-simple to the coutractcr live thdusand acre- 'A' laud Ini- cacli one mile of main line or luaiuli rail\\a\- tliiiiiiglKnit tlie entire length of tile line^ tn lir ojn-rated." SlmuM the line, therefore, he five hundred miles in length, the land grant \\'ould he i, 500,000 acres. "The said fee-sinijile grants shall hi- made hy the gowru- iiient to the said contractor a- follows : — i!.JO,000 acres upon the completion of the northern lim- to Exploits ; 250,000 acies ujion the com])letion of the we-lcin line to St. GeorgeV Bay ; 250,000 acres upon the comphtion of the line to Poit-aux-Basques ; and the balance at the end of five years friMu the ilate of this ron- tract, or as soon thereafter as praelicahle. ''The land shall l)e located on each side of the railway in alternate sections of one or tAVO miles in length with tlie railway, at the option of the contractor, on meridian or lia^e lines, as the case may he, and eight miles in dejith, the go\'i-innient retaining the alternate sections, anil until the eonti'actor has made his seleetion under this section, the government shall ni.it dispo.-e of ariv Crown lands, timber, or mineral rights within eight miles on either side of the line of railway."' "AVhere such sections from any cause are not oljtainable along the line, the .said contractor may select Crown lands elsewhere to make np deficiencies, tin; br-t- mentioned selections to be made in sections or blocks of not less than one mile square and not moi-e than ten miles stjuaie." The contract contains stringent ])rovisions for the due execu- tion of the various agreements, so as to secure the construction of a first-class line of railway. One section stipulates that the ■wages of daily labourers shall not be less than one dollar per day, payalile monthly. THE WORK COM^IEXCED A'lGOKOlISLY. Under the contract the work commenced in October, 1890, and ■was prosecuted with so much energy that at the clo.se of 1891 sixty-five miles ■were completed and operated. Tlie work of con- struction continued to advance vigorously, and early in the fall of 1893 two hundred miles were completeil and trains were run- 58 KOADS AND KAILWAYS, niiig twice each wi'i'k Iji'twecu Exploits, Wliitljoiuue and St. .Jolni's. RESULTS. Tlie railway having now pi'nctiatcd a ivgioii wliicli was ])re- viously lint litllc known, to a ilistance of two lumdi-ed miles, in little more tlian two years, we are enabled, to some extent, to form an estimate of tlie lieneticial changes it has accomplished And is likely to accomplish in the fntnre, and also to arrive at a conclusion in regard to the chai'acter and resources of the coun- try "wliich it ojieiis iij). C<)>I>1<)N ROADS OPKNKD. The lirst tlung wliicli strikes us is the wonderful extent of •common roads alreatly constructed or in course of construction, to connect the \ari(jus settlements and towns on the sea coast with the railway. These have been mostly surveyed and built Ijy the contractor, Mr. Reiil, acting umler the instructions of the '(Government. A good waggmi road, forty miles in length, has been built from Trinity to Shoal Harl)our, via Goose Bay. This •opens uj) a laigv ([uantity of good land for settlement and secures access to tlie lailway to a con.siderable population. Another road, ten miles in length, has been built to connect Indian Arm Bay with the railway ; while a third, five miles in length, runs from Alexand(n' Bay to tlie railway near Gambo. A road about forty-four miles in length, from Hall's Bay to the railway, join- ing tlu' latter about four miles west of Badger Brook, has been surveyed and some work done upon it. It will doubtless T)e •completeil this season. Roads from Arnold's Cove and Come-by- -chance have also been built. A line of road four miles long has been surveyed from Northern Bight to the railway ; and another is projected from Exploits to Botwoodville and Gander Bay. It may be leasonaljly exitected that wheivver there is good land along these waggon roads it will lie occupied by settlers and that farms will multii)ly. New life will be imparted to these lonely, isolated settlements thus ])laced in easy communication with the ^.-ajiital, and vaiioiis industrial eiilerprises will lie develojied. ROADS AND RAILWAYS. 69' When so miicli lias been accomplished in sucli a hrief period in road-making, it may lie safely ]iredicte(l that hundreds of miles additional ^vi]l soon he iuiind necessary as feeders to the I'ailway. MAIT.S IJY RAILWAY. The railway now carries nearly all the nnrthern mails, whicli in winter nsed to be con\'eyed by couriers on foot or with the aid of dogs over the surface of the snow. Small steameis ])ly from Shoal Harbour, Exploits anine is still felt, the jirice which it firings in the English market iurnishes a suttieient answer. Experts from other countries in'O- nouiice it excellent. It will rei(uire many years to exhaust the great forest growths along the (Zander River and Lake, and the Terra Nova, Gambo and Exploits and Humber Valleys. Luml)- ■erers are at work already some sixty miles from the sea-board on behalf of the Botwoodville mills. Pine ti'ces fifty to sixty feet high, and two to three feet in diameter, are commonly met Avith. Vast fo]-est areas ai-e still unt(jU(hed. FARMINti FACILITIES. The lundierer must precede the farjuer in clearing the soil for ■cultivation. As the forest-growths aie cut down settlers will ■occujiy the land, and homesteads will take the place of the pine- iorests. Facilities for colonizing these wildernesses are now i'urnished by the ii'on road. A srORTINfi COrNTKY. The sjMjrtsnian will reckon this country a ]pai-adise. Deer are there in abundance. It is re])(iitel that from 500 to 1,000 of these noble animals were slaughtered al)out Gandei Lake when swimming across in Xo\end)er, 1893 — a M'anton and barbarous destruction. The North American hare is found in prodigious numbers and ptarnugan are plentiful. The beaver and other fur-bearing animals, bears and wolves are met Avith. Trout and salmon-fishing in the lakes and I'iveis is excellent. All the materials for attracting settlers and i'or i'urnishing openings for vai'ied industries ai'e to be found iu this country to which the all-couipiering locomotixe has now gi\'en access. CHAKACTFR OF THK Il.VILAVAY. Before giving an account ot the various stations along the line and the physical featuies of the country whose solitudes are now for the first time invaded, it may be well to say something of the EOADS AND IIAILAVAYS. 61 .diameter of the railway umU'r constrnctioii. Impartial and competent judges wlio have visited and examined the line are unanimous in piououncing it one of the liest new roads ever laid clown. No rtiiusy work is to he found on it ; all is solid and .calculated to last. Tlie road-ljed is unsnr])assed ; the rails heavy and of excellent material and shape ; the ties or sleepers most .suljstautial ; the bridges and culverts nf granite and steel of supi'rior (|uality. The passenger cars are of the same style as tliose used on the Canadian Pacific line. The trains run so -moothly tliat the traveller has some difficulty in realizing that lie is imssing over a road just carved out of "the forest jirimeval." All avei'age speed of thirty miles an hour could lie safely reached .011 such a road, so that the short-route iiroblem hetween America .and Europe may yet lie solved heiv. It is difficult to fancy an ex])ress train with magnirteent Pullman sleeping and dining .cars, within tMo years from this date, rushing through the very lieart of tliose Terra Nova solitudes, where the deer, the wolf, •the liear and tlie fox were till recently the only dwellers ; yet, by the close of 1895, these fancies will be translated into solid facts. Five hundi'ed and titty miles of railway froui St. John's •to Port-aux-Bas(pie will lie in active operation. A short run of .one liuudi'ed miles aei-oss the Gulf of St. Lawrence, will place traxellers iu connection with the Continental railway-system ; .and Xewfoundland will almost cease to be an island. Such are tlie magical effects of a lailway in a new country. "What the ■Canadian Pacific railway has done for the Dominion, the Xew- foundland Northei^n and Western railway is destined to do for this island in coming years. Its dormant resources will be brought to light anoint the line passes back of the Anguille range of hills, down tlie valley of llie Codi'oy Eivers to Cape Ray, about nine miles distant from Port-aux-Bas(pie, which is the terminus of the line. CHANGKS TO BE KFFKCTED. From this outline of the route it will l»e acen that the new railwav traverses and opens up the lai-gest and most valuable areas of agricultural, forest and mineral lands in the island. In the course of years, l)ranch lines and waggon roads will connect the outlying regions with this Grand Trunk Railway, and thus the various centres of popidation will be linked together and brought under civilizing influences, and new industries pro- moted. A closer glance at the country along the line will fully bear out these statements. FIRST FIFTY MII.ES. Tilt first thirty or forty miles of the railway run through a wild rugged countr\-, very rocky, especially across the isthmusf EOADS AND ];AILWAVS. Go being interspersed Mitli luurcus ami lakrli-ts. (\iiiic-li\-( 'liaiicr valley, 50 miles from WlntlKUirne, is well Avooilid, and eniitain- laud ■\vliicli -when cleared, will U'pay ( ultivation. It holds good, Iiowever, that the fertile belts aw to be fonnd in tin- valleys ot the lar<;er rivers and ahmg the banks of the 2)rinripal lakes. On the ridges and high lands are generally IVuind marshes and •' Ijarrens,'' the latter of wliieh can be ntili/ed lor sheep and cattle raising. GKANITE OUAKKIKS. At Eandom, sixty-one miles and at the one hnn tlie i?tone used in l)nilding ma.-onry, bridges, etc, on tlie railway. TO PORT BI.ANDFOKD, CLODE SOUND. At Clarenville and Upper Shoal Harbonr villages the line again reaches the salt water. A small steannr plies here for the conveyance of mails and passengers to and lium the neigldiour- ing settlements. To a limited extent the land here has been brought under cnltivation. Opposite Clarenville on Random Island, Trinity Bay, is a lirick-making estalilishment, where brick of a snperior character are made. On Smith Sonnd, a short distance from Slioal Harl)oni-, are slate de])osits where slate of a snperior (jnality is oljtained. At Shoal Harbour is a small saw-mill, the logs for which are brought down the Shoal Harbour river along which the railway passes to C'lode Sound, an arm of Bonavista Bay, ninety-seven nules from Whitljonrne. Here the scenery is very tine. A growing settlement ha< sprung ujj and the land is being rapidly brought under cidtivation. There is here a beautiful sandy l)each where sea-l)athing can be had in perfection. The salt water is also warmer owing to its distance inland. In the near future Port Blamlford, Clode Sonnd, will be a favourite summer watering-])lace. The streams in the vicinity are Avell stocked with salmon and trout, affording to the angler excellent sjiort. There are also some line mussel <64 ROADS AND RAILWAYS. .and claiu-l)eils ; and if tlie exporiiiient were tried it is iirobable that oysters miglit liere l)e successfully raised. At Port Blaud- ford fogs are of rare occurrence, and irom this point to Cape Ray :are practicallv unknown. At Terra Nova river, tlie next station, there is a fine saw-mill, .ir.vned liv tlie ('aniphell Luml)er (Jonqmiy, with the most ap- ]>rovi'd macliiiicry. in adive operation. The country around is well stocked with game of various kimls ; multitudes of wild geese visit this place each spi-jng. The extent of the Sound is live mile.s in h-ngtli l)y two miles in hreaillh. GAMBO KIVElt. Tlie fine (Jamho River is ci'osscd liy a steel ))ridge eighty yards long, with piers of solid masonry. Both River and Lake are well tilled with trout and salmon, and tlie surroiniding country altonnds in ( Jandio, hut as yet little is done in reclaiming it. A luunlsome hotel is in course of erection at this lieautiful spot for tlie accom- modation of visitors, tourists ami sportsmen. Fnmi Gamlio to Benton, on Souli's Brook, a tril)Utary of the ■Gander, the line passes through a country over which forest jires swept a nuniher of years ago, Imrniiig vast ([uantities of splendid jiine tive>. At Benton anotlier large saw-mill, having the best machinery, is in o])erati(ni. Here, too, is another granite ,(|uarry, both being operated liy Mr. Reid. OANI>ER COUNTRY. Tlie railway crosses the Gander River at Gleiiwooil about five miles below the point where it issues from the lake of the same name. The advent of the locomotive into this great valley will ."•oiistitute an era in the colonization of the island. Here, when settled and rultivateil, will l)e one of the finest agricidtural regions of Xewfoundland. Hardly anything was known of thiss region till L'^74, when the Geological Survey was extended to the iip])('r learhes of the ri\-ei' and was completed two years later. The total length of the main I'iver is one huiulred miles ; and .another branch of it, called the South-west River, also empties KOADS AND IIAIIAVAY.S. 65 into the Grcut (laiulcr Lrike, ami is cii^lity iiiik's in leiiytli. Tlu' .area flraincil is lu-arly tluve tlimisaud s(|uarc miles. AltogvtluT, .as .shown in the rcpm-ts of the Gi'ologiral Sui-vcy, tliere air iu this great expanse of coiinti'V, including tlie whole of the Gaudei' River and Lake and the neighbouring ({aniho and Terra Nova valleys, no les.s than seventeen hundred square miles available for settlement. Gander Eiver is approached from the sea at Sir ■Charles Hamilton's Sound by the great inlet of (ilander Bay, the head of which is in latitude 49" 17' north, and longitude 54' 29^ west. From this point to tlie lake the river is thirty-three miles in length. The lake is thirty-six miles long. The main branch of the river extends above the lake for a distance of sixty miles. For a small outlay this river could be made navigable for boats of good size, and ay l)y only nine miles i_)f a le\-el country, owv Avhich a I'oad or tramway could .easily be constructed. Thus, this great valley lias two outlets to the sea, and is now by r;iilway placed in conimunication with the rest of the island. The valley, drained by the South-west River, eighty miles in length, has excellent soil and luxuriant timber ■growths. GKOLOGICAI. REPORT OF GANDER VALLEY. In the Re[iorts of the Geological Survey of the Gander district it is spoken of iu the following terms :—" The country lying aliove the great lake and forming the valleys of the two river.s presents evejywhere a gently undulating surface, rising to a moderate height in it- mure ele\ated ])arts, ami .sloping gradu- .ally and wit li beautiful regularity down to the river's banks on either side. For a distance of thirty miles above the lake, and .at least twt) miles on the we.stern side of the main and eastern side of the south-we.st rivers, the cK)untry is of this character, giving a block of tliiity mile^ long by ten wid.e, or an area of three hundred sipiare miles, covered with a deep rich yellow 66 EOADS AND JfAILAVAYS. sauily loam. Xearly every acre of these tliree liuudreil .square miles is well adajited for agrieultuval purposes, wliile magniticeiit pine, spruce, fir and wliite birch cover the whole. The islands or intervals in the rivers, especially near their outlets, are per- fectly level, and covered with exceedingly deej) and rich alluvial soil Tlie soil here, over a very great area, is of excellent cpiality and capable of yielding rich harvests. Taking everything into account, there is no more promising country or' one more easy of access in British America.'" " In all my travels about the island I have no where seen any- thing like the quantity of pine timber to be met with here." " There is an area of not less than tive hundred square miles worthy of being laid out as timber-limitS' where an immense trade miglit l)c cariicd on successfully." . "Were the tracts surrounding the head-quarters of the Gamlxr and the south-west branch to be taken into accoiint, I have little doubt the area would be extended to a thousand square miles." Mr. Murray, the Chief of the Geological Sur\-ey, calculated that there was sufficient timber here " to yield 02,160,000 feet annu- ally for one lunidred years." The following is Mr. Howley's (tlien Assistant Geologist), estimate of the pine lands here : — "Area of pine lands on the lower valley of the Gandei- Eiver and north side of the lake . Area of pine lauds on the lower vallfy of the Sq.wa. Gander river and north side of the lake ... 200 Valleys of the main and south-west rivers ... 800 South side of lake and across to Freshwater Bay 200 Valley of theGandjo and Triton river and tribu- taries l.')0 Total 850 In addition to its agricultural and lumbering capabilities the Gander country gives aljundant promise of being a mining dis- trict. The rocks of the serpentine group having all the charac- teristics of the cop2)er-l)earing formation in Notre Dame Bay are extensively developed in these areas. Kt)Al>S AM) K'AILWAYS. 67 SKTTI.K.HKNT. «Sucli i> tlu' Oiuiilcr cminlry wliirli tlu' i"iil\vay li;x^ now lapix'il jXiid i-euik'i't'd aceesf;il>lc. Tlic ia])i(l progres.s of tUo lumbering iniUistrv, already desciilx'd, aliundantly sn.stains the statements x)t'tlie Geological Survey as to its forest wealtli. Its tine scenery ;ind capabilities as a sporting ci>unti'y will attract multitudes of tourists when once it is known. As the valley is gradully cleared .of its forest-growths settlement will follow and one day it will be the seat of a large and thriving population. (,'i-ossing the (lander River the railway lams to Norris's Arm ;ou the Bay of Exploits and again reaches tide-water. This is .destined to l)e an inipoitant ])lace and here a village is sure to spring up .soon. Tlie .scenery is re])orted to be very tine. A steamer plies from liere on Notre Dame Bay for the conveyance jof mails and passengei's, and roads are iirqjected to connect it with the neighbouring ai'uis of the Bay. At Botwoodville, three and a-lialf miles acro.ss the liay, the Exploits Wood Company have a laige mill at Peter's Arm and are carrying on an ex- tensive trade in deals with llie Englisli market. They have x.>xteusive timber-grants in the Exploits and adjacent valley.s. At Burnt Bay, a short distance from Norris's Arm, there is a tine harbour having deep watei- and ample accommodation for the largest steamers. Passengers and mails landing hei'C from England would shorten the distance greatly and get quick trans- ference to Port-aux-Basque. A Iji'anch line, nine miles long, would connect Burnt Bay with the main line. VALLEY OF EXPLOITS. As already noted the line takes a westeily direction at Norris's Arm and enters the great Aalley of tlie Exi)loits, where tlie soil is superior to any yet reache.l. Timothy hay is seen growing here to a height of four feet on tlie lumber roads from seeds j^cattered by trains in hauling supi)lies to lumbei- cam2)s. At Bii^hop's and at Grand Falls, fuither up the liver, the scenery i.s exceedingly fine. The line now i-uns through a level country having an ujiward grade which continue.s till the water-shed between the Exjdoits and Grand Lake is reached at the 275tli G8 liOADS AMI RAILWAYS. iiiik' iVoiu "Wliitlidunu'. Situated o\i tlu- watci'-slied are tlic Wliite Hill Plains, " Great Baireiis," -where a splendid raneliiiig fountry is reached i'(|ual, as a cattle and sheep-raising district, to the celebrated Foot Hills of the Rocky Mountains in Montana, rook are well adapted for I'aniiing and pasturage. SOIL AND TIMIJKR OF EXPLOITS. The great valley of the Exploits, now opened up by the rail- Avay, presents sncli manifold advantages for farming, lumliering anil other industrial pursuits, that it nuist one day become the seat of a large population. \\'ith a s])lendid ri\er, abundant timber and a fertile soil it will not long remain in its present wilderness condition. The Exploits, which is the largest river in Newfoundlaml, rises in the sonth-western angle of the island, and, after a course of 200 miles, falls into the bay of the same name. It drains an area of 4,000 scpiare miles, of which it is calculated that nearly half are reclaimalile and tit for settlement. It Hows through Red Indian Lake thirty-seven miles in length and distant from the mouth of the river between seventy and eighty miles. The lower valley, l)etween the Red Indian Lake and the sea, is capalile of sustaining many thousand inhabitants. In the report of the Geological Survey it is said, '• The soil is ecpial to the best pai'ts of Lower Canaoil." CATTM': ItAISlNC;. Tlieiv can Ik- little doiilit that llie larilitic-s fuv cattle-raisin.i; ■will speedily atti-aet attention, to this ie,<;ion. Its proximity to- English markets — only six or se\en ihiys" steaming — tlie excel- lent liarltcmr for sliip[)inL; rattle ami the laeilities for ^rowini;- hay and root-crops — the alaindanl ^iipjily of nntritious wild grasses in summer — all conihine to mark out many iioi-tioiis of the Ex- l^loits and other valleys as ranching districts of great promise. With the superior advantages for stock raising the island affords, it seems strange that we should still he importing large quantities of beef (97,600 His. in 1892), some of which i.s hrought from Nevada, a distance of some 4,000 miles ; the cost of carri- age alone being greater than it could bi- raised for here, besides, the grazing grounds are much inferior to our own. GKIOAT HIMKKK A AI.LKY. After cros.sing the great Barrens the railway runs towards the north-eastern end of Grand Lake and enters the Huml>er Valley. This magnihcent valley, in regard to its soil, timber and scenic beaut}' — its noble river and its hue lake .surpasses anything yet describeth The total area is estimated at 800 square miles. This includes the wide expanse of country around Deer Lake, the narro\\' valleys of the Lower Hund)er and Grand Lake, and also that above Sandy Lake, on the eastern branch. At the head of Deer Lake the valley widens and spreails out in all directions for miles. Its dimensions here are stated to he twenty-five miles in length and twenty in breadth — giving an area of five hun- dred square miles. In the last report of the Geological Survey it is said : " The Avealth of tind)er resources still available on the magnificent Humber Valley, together with the sujjerior ([uality of soil covering so large an area, and capable of being cultivated to advantage, far exceed anything on the eastern side of the island. It may be safely estimated that at least ibur hundred out of the eight hundred s(|uare miles that comprise the entire ■70 l.'OADS AND KAILWAVS. valley are ol" tliis tuADuvalile cliaiacter ; wliile I liave little liesi- tatinii in saying tliat lialf tlic remainder would eomparo favour- ably willi nio^t ol' tlie land eleareil and eultivated on the eastern sealioard.'' "In jioint of scenic lieauty, however, tlie views on the Lower Hunil)er and along the (4rand Lake are mucli to ho ])reterred" (to the Deer Lake 'L).S. The railway reaches the Bay of Islands at Corner Brook, where there is every facility for the ei'ection of good wharves for the ex])ortation of farm-jtroduce, lumhvr, minerals, etc. The tine lierring tishi'ry ol' this hay, which is carried on during the winter, will receive an imjiulse from the railway which, in all prohahility, will lead to a wonderful expansion (jf this industry. It is true that much of the pine along the vi\ev has heeii long .since cut down, yet much good timlier of other kinds is still to be found there in al)undance, and thei-e are still many portions which the lumlier-man has not yet invaded. The shores of (ii'and Lake an- densely timbered with every variety of forest- growth, white pine being abundant. The country l)etween Grand and Sandy Lakes and the banks oi (ifjose Brook, arc regions yet almost untouched, and contain a large proportion of pine. In all these there is ample space for a large lumbering indu.stry for years to come, which will be developed by the railwav. MAKBLK BEDS. All these, however, do not exhaust the natural resources of the Humber Valley. It has long been famous for its marble deposits, wliicli are of enormous extent, but yet untested. Specimens liave been found of white marble of a very fine grain which .apjjears adapted for statuary purposes .should it exist in suffi- ciently massive beds, which is yet undetermined. " The variety of colours disjjlayeil in other specimens is very considerable and .often very beautiful.'' Marble (piarries are among the possibili- 72 EOAD.S AM) KAILWAYS. ties of the future, ami a large export of this valualile artiele at no distant date. THE NEW COAL riEL,I>. Still more important is the diseoverv of a new coal Held in the vicinity of the Grand Lake, whieli is now heing tested uiuh-r the orders of Government liy Mi-. Howley, head of tlie (leo- logical Survey. "While the indications are exceedingly hoi)eful, it would be jjromature to say that M'oikal)le coal-seams of any great extent have been fnuiMl. What is (•(.■rtain, howe\-er, is tliat the carbonifei'ons series (A forniatiims ocLU[»y a large aiea of the Hunil)er Valley, indeed, the entiiv jdateau of the valley is al- most exclusively composeil of these rocks. Borings were made in 1879-80 along the side of Sandy Lake, which revealed the existence of at least a portion of the up]ier or true <(ial-l)earing measures, with a few small coal-seams. On tlu- sdulhern side of Grand Lake tlie coal-measures form a deep narrow trough, the best and most extensive exposures of coal-measures being at Aldrey and Coal Brooks. Here borings were made in 1891-'92' with the following resnlts as indicate' tlieir juvs- ence. Heuco, we have at leai^t eighteen layers of coal succeei ling- each other in nearly vertical attitude within a total hori/ontal distance of 33.j feet, lea\ing an average of less than nineteen feet of strata between each layer. Such being the case, it ap- pears to me all these seams could be worked from one opening, especially as they approach eat h other nearer and nearer as they descend." PROSPECTS. The foregoing report indicates, at least, a strong j^robability that a workable coal-field in this locality, close to the ne^v lino of railway, will be developed. It would be difficult to over-rate the importance of such a discovery should it tui'n out in accord- ance with expectations. It would })rom(ite the settlement and industrial development of this tine reginn to an extent which is now hardly conceivable, especially when llie railway is so close to the coal-field. IRON ORE FOUND. Even this is not all. Iron ore is i'ound here in abundance as- sociated with coal. Th.e following is an extrait from Mr. Howley's repoi-t : — "The clay iron-stone l)ands interstratified with the coal-measures on Aldery and Coal Brooks are to all ap- pearances sinular to those found in most other coal fiehls. Jn England, this ore has been the principal source of the iron of commerce for wdiich that country has been so far-famed. It has been said that England's greatness Avas chiefly due to her coal and iron. Judging from external appearance, the ore here is of a faiily good tonality, and there can be no question that the de- posits are very extensive. It occurs as usual in the form of ir- regular nodules, nodular bands and compact solid bands, inti- mately associated with the principal coal seams. Its jjrospective value on that account to the future development of large indus- tries in this section of the island can hardly be realized now." SCENERY— KAY OE ISLANDS. At Corner Brook, where the railway station Avill be built, Fisher's saw-mill is in operation, the water-}>ower lieing obtained 7-i IJOADS AND liAILWAYS. iVoia the brook l.y a wooden sluice ;i qiiarter of a mile in length. Tlie (juaiititv oi' cultivable land here though limited in quantity (jwing to tlie steep hills around, is of excellent (quality. Garden produce of all kinds grow well : fruits, such as greengages, plums, apples, all kinds of lieri-ies, tlirive luxuriantly. To reach the Avide tanning lauds the narrow gorge through which the river flows into the Sound nuist l»e passed. At " The Devil's Dancing Point,'' where the river is narrowed to about one hundred feet, the scenery is most impressive, (jreat marble and limestone cliffs rise almost perpendicularly to the height of a thousand feet. The rushing current has cut a succession of caves in these great marble walls, ])resenting a mtjst pictures(pie apjiearance. The over-hanging locks and tree's, the mountains towering on each hand, the swiftly-Howing l)ut silent rivei-, all condiine to form a scene which could hardly l)e surpassed in any other ^.•ountry. Every year witnesses the arrival of tourists from Eng- land, tlie United States and Canada, in larger numbers, to view tlie hue scenery of the Bay of Islands and the Humlier Valley, anecially jn'oduc- tiA'e of the richest grasses of \arious kinds, while the climate is very fine. Gypsum of the l)est quality is abundant. Asbestos has been recently discovered at several ])oints, and nunes arc opened at Port-au-Port and elsewhere. Clay tit for lirick-making' has also been found. As a farming, fund )ering ami nuning region its capabilities are very great. Above all, hen- is the great coal- field of NeA\foundland, which the eminent geologi!^t Jukes esti- mated to l)e twenty-five miles Avide and ten in length. Coal seams three and four feet in thickness at the out-ci-op have been found here. It is yet untouched but will not long remain su after the lailway has reached it. At St. George's Bay, opposite Sandy Point, the principal settlement, there is a fine site at the Seal Eocks for a town to grow u[) and to become an inqiortant industrial centre. At the neighliouring Port-au-Port there ai-e large deposits of lead containing a pro]>ortion of silver ore. Iron ore is also rei)orted to be found in the neigliboiirhood of ijie coal seams. CULTIVABLE LAXD. According to the reports of the Geological survey there are around the shores of St. George's Bay and the valleys Avhich open into the interior, and are traversed by rivei's flowing from the highlands, 1(;4,")06 scprare acres of reclaimalde land tit for sittle- raeut, a large portion of it containing exci'lleut soil. 76 ItOADS AND RAILWAYS. CODROY VALLEYS. From St. George's Eay the line passes within a mile of the villages on the coast, and, at Crabb's Brook, runs behind the Angiiille range of moimtains down the Codroy Valleys to Cape Kay, and thence a distance of nine miles, to Port-au-Basqiie. The Anguille hills are too high and steej) fur ordinary tillage, but contain the finest, sheep and cattle runs, where immense flocks and herds might Ije fed. The Codroy Valleys have long been celebrated for their fertility and are partially settled. They contain at least seventy thousand acres, much of it fit for settle- ment. They are well wooded with spruce, Ijalsani, fir, yellow and white birch, and tamarack. The islands and flats of the lower part of Great Codroy River yield a luxuriant growth of wild grass, aftbrding an ample su^jply of good fodder i'or cattle. The cattle and sheep reaied on the small farms here jsroduce ex- cellent beef and mutton, and the grass, grain and root-crops testify to the excellence of the soil on which tliey are grown. The dairy produce is of the best description. MKSTERX NEWrOUNDLANW. If we take the whole tract of country fiom tlie Humliei A'alley (inclusive) to Cape Ray, through which the line passes, Ave have Avhat will undouljtedly be one day the garden of Western Xew- foundland. A])ait from its niineral treasures and forest wealth, the agricultural ca])abilities of this region are such that it should .sujiply all the markets of the island and also be able to export largely to otlit-r countries. POKT-AL'X-BASQUE. From Cape Ray to Port-aux-Basijue the line passes over nine miles of rocky barrens, but the valleys cutting the barrens con- tain good farming and jjastui-e land and are partly taken up and settled. Sheeji ranching could be carried on here with advan- tage. This port, which forms the terminiis, is large, safe aus'ewtouiidl;nid will become one of the very few sources of .su^jply which at jaesent e.\i\ hicli is now opened up, and whose natural re.-onrces- are so abundant. Its proximity to Euro]>e will prove an attrac- tion to emigrants when contrasted with the thousands of mile.s- to be travelled in order to reach the fixr west of the United States- and Canada. The healthful climate, in which neither the scorch-- ItOADS AND TiATLWAYS. 79"' ing heat of American .summeis nor the Uightiiig cold of tlieir Avinters luive to he encountered, will he a weighty considci'ation with those who are changing their lionie;<. It i.s also a matter of certainty that a constantly inu-reasiug influx of touri.sts, sportsmen and travellers, w ill tind their way to Newfoundland during the summer months now that its nolde scenery ami attractions for the sportsman are made known and rendered accessihle. The island is really the Norway of tlu^ New Worhl, and comi)ares favouralily with Ireland or Scotland as regards scenery and natural resources ; and were facilities for travel matching those in Norway, provided, hosts of visitors would every year he seeking its shores. All those developments will come in due time now that the grand essential, a trunk rail- way has heen constructed. NEWFOUNDLAND RAILAVAY C031PANV. Under the careful and skilful management of the Receiver, the Newfoundland Eailway, from St. .lohn's to Harhour Grace,- (83i^ miles) has made most satisfactory ])rogress in the develop- ment of passenger and goods trattic-. The road-hed, track and rolling stock are maintained in excellent condition, and the mad is efHciently and continuously o}»erated. The trains run with remarkahle regularity, winter and summer ; and \\\> to tlie pre- sent time, there have been no serious accidents and very I'ew injuries to jiassengers or employees. In order to show the advance which has heen maily of getting a railway and tell their I'epresentatives that it must Ije done, and that if there are difficulties they are sent to the halls of legis-' lation to overcome difficulties an< found. But still, if the formation is the same in that part of Newfoundland where the serpentine is found, then it is only fair 80 TttJADS AND 1;A1LWAYS to assume that the same minerals ^\ hic.li occui- in the Canadian part of the belt Avill also be founil in that part of it which lies in XeAvfoundlaml. Tliis I was iletermined to in\'estigate ; but year after year slipped liy without my being able to undertake the journey. In the spring of last year, however, being in Ca- nada, I went to Ottawa to consult my friend, Dr. Selwyn, the Director of the Geological Survey there ; and lo liim I mentioned my iossible to give effect to the discovery. Yes, I intend to set to work at once, and shall leave by the next coastal steamer for the West Coast, Avith men and material ; and if my efforts meet with success, I l^elieve that it will Vie a good thing for Newfoundland, by amongst other things giving employment to her increasing population, whicli cannot, under present conditions, be kept at home, Init has to go abroad in quest of that which its own land is powerless to afford it. The staple trade of the country is fish, of course, fish Ijefore anything ; but a country is generally }irosperous, in proportion as she has some alternative business to fall back xipon. The fishery may be a bad one some seasons, and the Avhole island suffers ; but, if any part of the population is engaged in some other liusiness in addition to the staple trade, the difficulty and consecpient dis- distress are certainly in some measure amelioi-ated. But to give effect to any of tliese things, the country wants opening uji, so as t:> welcome the inti"oduction of capital. At present it is not so. Louk, for instance, at my own case. I have found asbestos on the West Coast, and wish to give effect to the discovery by opening a mine there ; l)ut, to ilo this I have to encounter extra- ordinary ditticulties. If we had oidy a cattle track t(j pass over KOAltS AND K'All.WAVS. 87 iit would liL' soiUL'tliiug ; luit uuK'.-> iiu-u (if ciifv^v and peisever- xiuco t-aii Ije found to follow up any disi-ovcrv of this kind, tlvi' great mineral wealth of Xewfoundlaud nii^lit just as well, for iill till! benefit the island can derive from it, l)e in Alaska or Tindnictoo. When I reaeh the (Jraxels, at Poit-au-Port, 1 have jibout tAvelve miles to go ; hut the ciniuliv tiiere is in a primeval .state — tliere is noioad or path, oi' even rattle track, conse<|uently we must go hy watei-. All our goods, too, must go by water, and (the jn-oducls of the mines must also go the same way. The coast line here is rugged in, the extreme, and by water, I believe, the ■distance is about 15 miles. Now. >u gieat is ilie ditticulty of thi.s passage occasioned liy the cross currents and sudden sc|ualls pass- ing over the crest ()f the hills, that I have fre/juently been kept out for twelve hours during the trip ; an will he aihleil cattle ami slice] i-iviisiuj;- on an ex- tensive scale, as well a> iiiiniiiL;' ainl luiiiheriu!.;', to .-ay nothinj^' ot" tisliing. The coal heils will not remain much l()ii;j;er umvorked when the lailway louclu's them, 'i'his yraml desideratum is at length seeureil, and western Xewt'oiindland hecomes accessible from lioth east and west, and ]iresent< a w ide tlidd for enteri)rise. It is of inijioi iani-c, thend'on', to ascertain what is the idiarai'tei' of its soil and wliat aie its gx.neral capahilitio. TIU: t ODltOV V.VI.LKYS THlilll COXl'ItiVU.VTrOX. Western Newfoundlaiiil, hecimiiiiL; at l*oit-aux-l>as(pie, com- prises the ("odroy \'alleys, St. George's Bay, I'ori-a-Port, Bay of Islands, Bonne Bay, and the coast of the great northern ]ieninsula to the Straits of Belle Isle, — some four humlred miles in extent. The (ii-eat and Little ( 'odroy ]!i\-eis, which ha\e hut short courses, fall into the sea ahout sixteen miles north of ('a])e IJay and .-ix miles south-easterly from ( 'ape Anguille. Theii- mouths are but a few miles a]iarl. The valley which they drain, ihough of no great (.■xtent coui]iarati\ cd\', is one of the liiiot aui-icidtural dis- tricts in the island, il is hounded on the iioitli-east hy the Cape Bay mountains, rising, rugged and barren, to a height of :^,000 feet. The Cape Anguille i-mge forms its northern boundai-y ; " these,'' says the (icological re]iorl, ''present a soft and gentle outline, while the higher idevations attain an altitmh' of 1,000 to- 1,200 feet, richly coverel hy forest trees nearlv to the summits." The lowei ]iarl of this valley, between the two langes of hills, gives an ex|ianse ol law Hat land, the breadtli of tln' \alley being about tweh'e miles. Ill the upper jiart of the valley the hill- ranges converge towanls each other, and ••the xalley gradually becomes more and more contracted in widih until shut in nearly altogether where the main stream at the end ol' the siiiA'cy be- comes split up among the mountains of the Long Bangc into a succession of small tuibulent mountain lirooks.'' •92 AGRICULTUItAL IIKSQI-KCES. KXTEXT OF <;0<)1) l.AN'I>. TliesL' Coihuv valleys avo alxnit inity miles in lengtli, Avitli ;i ■width of fioiii ten to twelve miles. 'J'here are some marshes and .some i^ortions covered with boulders, Ijut for the most part the soil is cxrellent, and there is nothing to imjjede farming oj^era- tions (lu an extensive scale. The following extract from the Geological rejxirt will convey some idea nf the character of thi region : — " The area occupied hy Im-el or gently undulating laud in the valley amounts, by ruugli nn'asui'cmeut on the plan, about seventy-tive sij^uare miles, (ir 48,000 scpiare acres, a verj large pro[)ortion of which is availalde fur settlement. For th most i)art the country is well Avooded witli stout mixed timber consisting i-hietly of spruce, balsam tirs, ydlow biich, frecpiently of large size, white birch and tamarack. The islands and flats of the lower ]«irt of the Great Codi'oy lv.i\'er yield a luxuriant growth of wild grass, affording an ample su])ply of admirable I'oddei- for cattle. Along the sea-coast, lu'tween Tranvain Brook and the little village of Codroy, the counti-y is partially settleil all the way, the attention of the settlei-s being about equally divided between the cultivation of the land and fishing opera- tions ; but uj) the Great Codroy l!i\e]-, whicli is more or less occiipied on either side of the estuary, the calling of the inliabi- tantsa])])ears to be more jnirely agricultural, and it may be faii'ly stated that, notwithstanding the very lude ju'ocess by which the land is cultivated, the crops produced — of grass, grain and roots — higldy testify to the excellence of the soil in which they are grown. Cattle and sheep are raised upon most of these small farms, producing most excellent beef and mutton, besides dairy l?roduce of the Aery best description. The greater jmi't of the Anguille Range and some of the lower slopes of the Cape Eange are also capable of improvement, ;uid, if cleared of timber and sown in grass, would afford grazing land not easily surpassed iu any country.' THK I.ATEST SllJVKV. A hitei- and moi-e coni])lete topograjihical survey states that the juiiidjer of farm lots in actual jiossession on the coast line and ACRICULTUKAL RESOURCES'. 93 ■sliori'-; of the estuary of Grand River, located and laid off, was 93 in all, Iiaving an average of over 1G3 acres, or a total of 15,204 acres ; and that a further amount of 2,121 acres had been applied for. On tlie Little Codroy River about 8,860 acres were occupied ■or held in ]iussessiou. About 13,421 acics ^vere available in the upper and uii()((Mi])i('d ])orti(jn of the Codi'uy Valley. The total .area of cullivalili' l;niil in the valleys was 56,802 acres. A SmVEYOR'S KErORT. Tlie i-t]Miit nf a ( iovcrnment Surveyor General, made many years ago, stairs tlial the soil in these, valleys consists of a " rich loam capalile of llu- highest degree of cultivation, and fit for the 2n-oduction of any ili'scrijition of crojx" . . . " Ljang to the nort.liward of the xabiablc tract of laud I'd'eiTcd to is found a range of liilly gronud aihaiialdy adapted for grazing, its natural productions consisting of herliage, which early in the sTinimer .attains a height of lictween two and three feet." . . . "It would be (litticulf ii imagine a niore beantiful or picture.sc|ne .scene than the whole [H'e.scnts ; anil whether with reference to the soil around it, to its lisheries or to its geographical situation, forming as it does part of tlie Xorthern Head, and therefore com- jnanding tlu- entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, a more ■desiral)le or iniporlant place for a settlement could scarcely be found." A Ti:.\VEI^LEK"S OIJSERA.YTIONS. A traveller fiom (,'ape Breton, who visited this regicm, wrote of it in the following terms : "The lan iihsoiuces. could ^-ce along tlic luniks tlia1 thf soil Mas cxrcrdinglv j^-ood aiuf four feft in deptli ; while the grass, hal-aiii, ami balm nf gilcad trees and tall alders ga\ e ju'oot' of its surpassing fertility. " JX'OXOMIC MATEKIAI.S. Tlie Geological Ivepurt fuillier states that "the coal rdck?- were perceived to he ilistrihuted along the hase of the Cajie Ray mountains." "(iyjisuni too is lai-gely ile\e1opeiiK' of I lie head ol' lliu liay, foriiiiuL;- an cmiIKmiI liarbour. No-w tliat it is iimii1ilili' hy a i-ailway, IIumt can be no lion) )1 thai the rc^^ioii anuiinl this l)ay is ilc-liinMl, iu the near I'litmc, lo Ihtohu. the sral of a largx' a^nriiaillurah min- ing and liuiiln'riiii;' popuhitioii. When \vc lake into arcoiuit the- oxtensive li'acts of fiTtih- lamls aionml the shores, tln' (|iianlity and exeellenee of the timhei', tlie minerals and coal-lieils. indi- cations of wliirli are aliundanl, and add to this the sujierior climate it enjoys, it .-eems e\ciy way likelv it will yet heeome the garden of Newfoundland. Towns and \illai;es \\ ill yet dot its shores, and a ]iro>|iei'ous ]io]iulation will oeia!]iy its vallov.-i and liills. Tlioe are not tln' \isious of an enthusiast, Imt views- which rest on an ai'ray of sober facts. After ri'Jieated .--Ul-Veys, the (leoloeiral lieports stale the extent of land available for settlement at oliO s([uai-e miles. The smith side of 8t. George's l-iay was, in JSSo, laid out in ten lowiishijis containing 340 s(|uare miles, of which it was calculatet \abiable agriculluial land. The soil is so good, t. These Scotch ]H'o]ile are vei'V thrift\-, and luive here car\"ed (ait comhirtable homes for themselves. Tlu'V have looms, and \\ea\'e I'rom wnol of their oA\'n yrowiuL;' all the" OG AGKICULTURAL EESOUKCES. Elotliiug lliey uwd ov u.se. North of tliciii, :uul extending to th Baracliois, is a large settlement of Englislimeii wlio came chiefly .from tJie ssoiith coast of the island. CiEOLOGICAI. SURVEY RErORT. Here are a fe^^' extracts from the Geological Survey Reijorts which present this region in a very favonrahle light : " North - eastward from the terminating point nf tlie Cape AnguilLi mountains, the whole country between the coast and the Long Range is of a flat or undulatory characlcr, densely coA'ered with forest trees, except in such parts as ha\(' liccn swept by fire, or occasional tracts of marsh. The trees of this i'orest consist of ■white and bellow birch, spruce and lialsam, iir, poplar, tama- rack or larcli. Much of the timber of this gi^at plateau is very large. Trees of yellow and white lurch are frei|neutly met with, and ])artieu]arly on the river flats, ha\-iug a diameter of three feet, anil even more, many of which are la.ll and straight, re- sembling the hardwood forests of Cajiada. Spruce, balsam, poplars and tamaracks also reach a maximum size and seem to be of excellent ([uality." . . . "These valleys and much of the higher lands, now primeval ^\•ihlel■ness, a})pear to be nearly in every respect well adapted for agricultural settlement. By deducting the tract occu^jied by the Auguille Range of hills, amounting to 256 square miles, which is too high and too steep for ordinary tillage, although well-suited as runs for sheep or cattle, tlu' reuuiinder of the block, ^iz., oCO si[uare luiles, is certainly to a large entent reclaimable ; and tliere can be but little doulit lliat the construction of roads, which must necessa- rily be the conserpience of occupation, together Avith the clearing of the foi-est, will lead to mineral discoveries of vast imjiortance to the Colony. . . . Tracts of considerable extent upon tlie coast, and nearly all tlie valleys of tlie ])rinci2)al streams, bear a soil of the most fertile description, which is even already shown by the few and rudely cultivated sjiots here and there where the produce in grass, green crops, and even cereals are all first class both in (quantity and ([uality. The richness of the soil at this part of tlie coast is jiroliably due to the calcareous material AOlilCULTUItAL IJKSOritCES. 97 ■Jerived from llic ailj'aceut nioiiutaiiis, logotlier witli the disinte- gration of the trai>i)ean rocks of \vlii(.-li the sub-soil is conqiosed.' KIVIERE BLANCHE. Of Riviere l^lauche a river falling into St. George's Bay near Indian Head, the Ei'port says : — " This I'ivur was measured about six miles up its course. A block of rich Hat land, sujoported on members of the carboniferous series, is shut in, as it were, by the :Silurian mountains on the nm-tli and west, and by the Indian Head Range on tlic cast, whicli is chietly (h-ained by the Riviere Blanche and Roniain's or Kippen's brook. The area of the block is between 30 ami 40 scpiare miles or about 22,400 acres. The whole of this area (cxee]iting the small (dearings at the mouths •of the streams) is dcnscdy covered witli forests of large and vigor* ous growth, with aljundance of yellow bircli, spruce, fir and other trees, but scarcely any pine " HAKRY'S liKOOK VALLEY. "The valley of Harry's Brook, al)ove the western fork, is rug- ged and barren for the greater part, and much of it is hilly and mountainous. Below the junction of Spruce Brook jiatches of good land begin tn ajipear, chietly on the right bank ; and back from the lower reaches, on the same side, there is a broad tract of very good country. The islands and low banks near the out- let are of the Ijest soil for grass meadows. To the south-east ot Spruce Brook nearly the whole c(.)iinti'v is s])read over by vast marshes which extend u]> to the Hanks of the hills on the south- west side (jf the (rraml Lake.'' TEXINSULA OF rOKT-A-1'ORT. Xoilh of St. (Jeorge's Bay extends the small peninsida of Tort- a-Port, between it and the Bay (4' L-lands. The mineral indi- cations are of the most i)romising ehai-acter and warrant the expectation that it will one day l)e a mining centre. A lead mine was opened here manv years ago, but ov.-ing to the jealousies ■of the Fi'cnch, who have lishing riglits on tliis coast, the Imperial Autlun'ities ordered operations to be susjicnded. Such orders, howevei-, would not be issued now. Cojiper and asbestos have 98 AGiarr];m;AL UKsoriaKs. iilso l)et'ii fuiniil li(')i_'. Its agTirultur.il caiialiilitic.-, Imwi-w-i-, aiv i'ar I'rounk'sjiicalilc. The (leoloo-iral Ifrpin-l states thai there ari' nearly 100 .s[Uare iiiih-s iu the pi'uiiisiUa avaihiUe I'ur at^rieul- tural i)ur2)0ses. A luxuriant grass grows in certain ]ilai.'es ; -while the timber in sdiiie portions is ol' good (|nality t(jnsisting of -white spruce, balsam, hr, and vellow liirch (eommonly known as witch- hazel). The \-iilh'y of Benoit's lirook contains an area of ('Af square miles, at least one-half of wliicli could lie reclaimeih The whole area of the valley of Serpentine IJivei- is aliout oS scpiare miles, mucli of the lowei- lands being of gooil soil. Here loo, are found ])ine and tamarack trees of large size. The recent dis-- covery of asbestos here is niost promising. ST. OKOltOK'S COAT. VlKTAt. In addition to the resources of tins i-egion already enumerated it should be I'lanendiered that St. Georges Bay contains a large coal-field, not less than twenty miles in width and ten in length, awaiting develo]iment. The discovereil seams are four feet, thi-ee and a half and one and a half fe(-t thick ivsjiecti\ely. ( 'ompeteut authorities lia\'e cahulated thai if shipments ut :^.")0,00O tons ]ier year were maih' the coal-beds of St. Cie(a-,ue's Bay would not lie exhausted in a century. Further acctamt i- reser\-ed for the (diapter on the ndneral weahh of the islam'. oTiiKit ix<)No:>ii(' ijKsoi i:ci:s. Tlie Rejiort already i[Uoted contains the following: — "Tin' innuense gy]>sum deposits, so frei[Uently met with thi-oughout this region cannot fail to become of con-iderabK- economic im- poitance in tlie future, esjiecially as mucli of it ]iartakes of the character known as alabastio-. It^ value a> a lertilizer w hen tlie country becomes settled witli an agricultural populalion, can hardly be o\'er-eslimaled. ]\lany substances of udiior inqioitance, such as liuilding stones, linn'stones, brick-clays, grindstoiu^s, whet- stones, etc., occui' in abundance. The Laureutian hills in the rear give promise of considerable deposits of ii-on ores, liouhlei-s and fragments n|' which are i'ound plenlilully di.-tributeil along the beds of the ininciiial sti'eani^. These and other less known Ai:i;i(ri,Tri;Ai. itKsoiKcKs. 90 j'esoiii-ci's, coiiiliiin'il witli ilif ui'<'all.v >u])ci'i(ii- eliaracter of llie -ioil, must in time ri-inlcr the ilistrict of St. (icorge's Bay oin- of llif most tloiirisliiui;- au'l |ii-iis]iciims in the i.-laml of Xcwfoiiiul- Jand." .lIONSKiNOK SKAllS' OPIXIOX. Till' latr Very ]\v\. ]^Joiisigiinr Si-ars, \vlio s]K'iit many yi^ars in ^t. Ck'orgi'"s Bay, wrote (if it as follows : — "As tlic snil here is .surpassingly piodurtivi-, c.sjje.-ially in tlic growth of various grasses, 1 lielievc tlirrc is no country in our latitude to .surijas^s it for grazing .sliui-p or lattlc \Micrc'Vcr tlio tn-cs are I'eiuoved by tire, wind or other lauscs, a sjiontaneous growth of grass S2)rings u]).' He ti'lls of nie.nldw.- wliirh he has known giving hay for llie last nineteen vears, and "the nineteenth erop better than the first." "The wood is almndant and of e.xcellent (piality, especi- jiUy the hircli foi fuel and s]iipl)uildiug. UK. JOHN IJKLI. ON ST. GEOKuli- lished an account of liis visit in tlie Canailian Xdtii.ralist. The following is an extraet from one of his papers : — "Along the river Hats, in the valleys and oji the 'barrens' when these are draineliown tliat the area of the Hundjer Valley is 800 S(piare iiiile>, of whicli fully oni'dialf contains soil of a superior chaiacter, capalile of lieing cultivated to ailvantage. The forest wealth is al-o great ; wliile half (d' the reiiiaiiiiug 400 Sf[uare miles coni}iare la\()uraVily with most of the laud cleared and cultivated on the eastern sea-board Oue sliiking feature of this region is the new cnal tield recently disco\ered iu the vicinity of Grand Lake, ;iud whicli is now being tested. The .splendid herring ti she ly of Lay of Islands will be greatly bene- fited by the opeiung of till' railway and will speedily develojie into very large pro[iortion.--. C<):\ll'AKATIVE KKl'OKT. The Eeport of tlu' (ieological Survey remarks: — '-Thousands of scj^uare miles have been laid out in townshij)s, and already h-ettled, in Canada, eitlui' for the purjjose of lundx'iing or farm- ing, on tlie northern shores of Lake Huron and many parts of the Lower Provinces, far inferior in most respects to this I'cgion of Newfoundland, which tliere can scarcely be a dr)ubt is cap- able of sujiporting a very large population." In this valley of the Humber many thousands might find employment iu agiicul- ture, while those living on the lower reaches of the riser and on the banks of the Sound could comlnne fishing, lundjering and ship-building Avitli faiiuing. IJO>Ts'E BAY. North of the Lay of Islands another fine bay opens named Eonne Bay, the sceneiy of which is verv fine. It has not vet 102 Aia'Jcrr.TI-llAL KESOl-JtCKS, lieeu f^ui'wveil and i> lint ]i;ii-tially known. .Indi^iiii^- liy the re- ports of those wlio ivsidc in tliis lijiy, there is aronnd its shores .;l vei'V eonsi(k^ralih' extent of tfood hind, giving excelkait crops wlien riiltivrtted, and a still larger area suitahle for grazing pur- poses. The herring tishcrx of Boinu- Bay has long been cele- brated, the (quality of llic hen-ing taken here, as A\(dl as in tlie Bay of Islands, being (■(|ual to thr liest Labrador ailicle. NOHTHKKN I'KXIXSULA. In regard to the liay> fnrther north little is known ; bnt casual visitors concur in declaring that at the heads of nearly all these north-westein and nortlu'rii b,iys theiv are laigv stretches of good land: so that farming could be conibim'd with fishing, by sett- lers, with great adxantage. XtRKAT PLAIN ACROSS THK ISLAND— HU^niKR AALLKY TO HALL'S BAY. From the Hundjer district to Hall's Bay, an arm of Notre Dame Bay, on the northeastern coast, a level plain extends across the island, the greatest height of land betMeen these two points not exceeding 200 feet. From Humber Sound to HallV Bay the .distance is 100 miles. In this jdain the land is in many places excellent and of considerable extent, the tind)er abundant and ^jf large size, and the mineral indications at several points of a very promising character. At one time it was designed to cou- struct a common road along this plain, and a survey Avas made in 1878, but the project was not carried out. The surveyor's re- port furnislietl full information regarding tlie soil, timber, mine- rals and other features of this great jdain, from which it appeared that from 5,000 to 8,000 jjcople could settle here with every prospect of making comfortable homes for themselves, as farmers, 1uml)ernuii or niiiu-i's. Ere long, it may be safely athrnied, a liran(di line of railway will connect this region with the grand ti'mdc line, and so op'.'U U]> the great plain for settlement. A jdiain of small lakes with rivers flowing from them, extends from Hall's Bav to the shores of Grand Lake, with onlv one HJi-taLTc a mile in width. From (irand Lake the route lies A(ii!rrri.Tii;AL i;i:s( »i lii Ks. 10;> .afi'dss ;i ])oita^f nine miles wide, ami lln- Humlicr i-iwr is ivaclu'd. Till' scenery alony this |ilain, csiiccially at tlic l^)irrliv Ponds, is vfi-y Ijeautit'ul, and sr\cial places riiiii|)aic imt un- }Vvonial»]y witli tlie lake sccnciN <>[' the Jiritisji Isles. iJanie of vai-ions kinds is almndant, and ilci r aie met with in large nnm- 1>ers. The snrvevor said in his ic|iiirt thai the Indian Brook Valley, which opens into Hall- Hay, cunlains "jU s^nare miles or 32,000 acres oi' land availahh- i'nv larming jmrposes Avliicli would give 80 acres each to 400 lamilics ; and that the aiea of timber- hearing land is not less than loo sipiari' miles. The timber is principally white pine, white ami lilaek s|)rnce, white birch ancl tir. The pines vary IVum one i'nnt to three and a half feet in ■ diameter at the butt. I'ldbrtunatidy, the tindjei- in Indian Brook Valley lias been swejit nxry by tire, and although left standing, it gives the country a desolate ajipearance. "• Tlie soil is of a rich, sandy loam, easily worked." "There is still a con- siderable ([uantity of timlier available foi- lumberers, and a very large ([uantity suitable for farmers and Imilders." MINKKALS. "Tliei'e is a jirobabilitv that (■o[)per may be fouml in the ■ eastern section of the jilain. The chloritic slates, which are .so rich in cojJper on the sea-coast, are found in several localities ■ on this route, and traces of copjier and iron jiyrites are observ- able at a point about two nules in from the south-Avest arm of Notre Dame Bay; also about four miles in, and at the east and west extremities of Indian Pond." "There are several marshes which are not deep, having a .-olid bottom at the depth of two or three feet, and these if drained Avoidd make very good mea- dow land. On both sides of Slioal Pond the soil is of a ri<-li sandy loam." THF GREAT A ALLKV OK THK EXPLOITS. Reference has been made in the ])receding chapter to the Valley of the E.xploits, through a ])ortion of which the new line of railway runs. The bay of Exploits forms a deep) l)ighfc on the south coast of the gu-at bav of Xotre Dame. It has 104 AOrJCULTL'KAL I!KS()ri;( KS. luuaeruus arms, tlu' f^reatcst ln'iiig tin- inlet wliirh k-ails to the' entrance of tlie Exploits River. There are se\ci'al islands in this arm, the princi])al being Tlnvart Island on the eastern side. The water is osite this entrance is Xorris's Arm, stretching for alxmt six miles a little north of east, with an avei-ige width rarely exceed- ing half a mile, at the head of which another consideralde .stream falls in from the eastward. The Ivvploits River takes its rise near the south-western angle of llu- island, within a moderate distance of St. (reorge'-s Bay. A\'ith its nunievous- tributaries it drains an area of 4000 sipiare miles, and reaches- the sea after a course of 200 miles. The valley may be divided into two sections — the lower ex- tending from Red Indian Lake to the sea, a distance of seventy to eighty miles ; and the u]>per from this lake to the sources of the- river. LOAVKK KXPLOITS A'ALLEY. In its course from Red Indian Lake downwards the Ex^doits receives the waters of eight tributaries, the largest being Great Battling Brook, Chute, Sandy and Badger Brooks, while foui' large streams disch;uge into the lake itself. The smaller tribu- taries are very numerous. The following extract from the Geological report will give eome idea of the soil and timber : — " The main river valley^ from Red Indian Lake downwards, is nearly for the whole dis- tance a level or gently nnditlating country, broken only Ijy oc- casional abrupt hills or locky eminences, and densely wooded for many miles l)ack from either bank of the stream The forests of the Exploits Valley consist of pine, spruce, balsam, fir, tamarack, white Inrcli and i)02)lar. The (quality of the sjion- taneons productions may fairly be taken as indicative of a fer- tile soil. The^Avidth of this fertile belt of land varies at different parts of the rivc^r ; but taking its avei'age about t^\■o miles on A(;i;i(i i.Tri;Ai. i;KSori!(Es. IOr»- / titlier side (;iiul it }iii>!iaM\ i> iinuli more), tliciv would l.c uii area of reclainiaLlc counlry of -280 square miles, or 179,200 acres." The report ai Ms : "At tlie iiioiitli of the river the re- claimahle laud extends In the unrtlnvard for almiit five iiiih-s, terunuatiualile of cullivatiou. The fertility of the soil at this part of the region is amjily testifietl wherever culti- vation has heeu attenqited. ]irniluring roots, potatoes, grass and other crop.s of the tine.-t de.-rriptinu ; while as a grazing or stock- raising country it can liaidly tie .-nrpassed. The surface soil is generally of sand or sandy loam, which at the upjjer end of the Aiilley is underlaid hy a di-ift of day and gravel, while at the lower parts the subsoil is tenaiious, Iduish, or diah-coloured clay Avhicli is occasionally slightly calcareous." . . . " Xo ohser- vaut jierson A'isiting the valley of tde Exploits could fail to he impressed with the manifohl advantages it presents for the jn'ose- cution of industrial i)Uisnits, such as lumbering and agriculture. With a sjilendid ri\ei', almudaul timber and a fertile soil, the region that is now a w ilderne>s might, by energy and enterprise, be soon converted inln a tliriving settlement, maintaining a large population." UPi'Ki: i:xri.<)iT.s' ^'^\XLEY. Above Red Indian Lake the river is divided into two Ijranches — the main river, or Exjiloits 2)roper, and the Victoria branch. The former rises not more than twelve miles from the sea-coast, Hows through. George TV. Lake and several smaller ponds. From this lake the course of the river is remarkably straight, in a north-easterly direction, till it joins the Red Indian Lake at the end of upwards of forty miles. The Red Indian Lake is four hundred and sixty-eight feet aliove the level of the sea. The Victoria branch of the Exploits takes its origin between the AVhite Bear and Grandy"s Brook waters, which interlock each other, and the eastern bi;-,nch of the La Poile, and it flows gene- rally nearly parallel Avith the main river to its junction with the Red Indian Lake, about four miles above the inlet. South-west lOG AiiRicn.Tri.'Ai. iiksources. IVoiu tliat junction, at tin' end nf Idt-f y-.^even miles, tlie liver ex- painls into a niagniticent slu-ct ol' water caileil Victoria Lake, whicli is sixteen miles long liv an average lireadth of tliree- (^uarters of a mile. Tlie diaiacier of the country tlirougU whicli these streams How is Aaried. Sonlli of King George IV. Lake " the country is one va>t desolation of liare rock with marshes interspersed." On the lelt Kank of the Victoria there are areas of well-timbered land, aveiagin- tive miles in width, ami rich "interval lands'" lietween Lloyds Tond and Kc(l Indian Lake. " Sixteen miles u}) the A'icloria River the country greatly im- proves, and a huge tract, widl wooded, generally level anF A >IILL,IOX Af'HICS I^T FOR SETTLEMENT. The conclusion of the (reological Surveyor is that there are, upon the Exploits alone, 800 sipiaic miles, or 512,000 square -acres, more or less capable of sup[iorting settlement, including arable and pasture lands. "'I'lie ])ine timber, sjiruce, tamarack and birch over extensive ai'cas, are of excellent quality and vigorous growth.'" THE VAT.LEV Ol" THE EK. The next great agricidtiiial ana is the Gander Valley, which .surpas.ses even that of the Exjildits. Including the neighbour- ing Gambo and Terra No\a valleys, there is here an area of 1,700 square miles, or ], 088,000 s(piare acres, available for settle- ment according to the estimate of the ({eological Survey. The to]iogra])hy of this region has been alreaerior size and description * * Witli the almost ;iniivaled ca])aliilities tlie country possesses for grass growing, breeding ami rearing oF stock can liai-dly fail to become one of the givat future imlustrics of the province-. "- * * Nowhere else in the island is there seen anything like tlie ([uan- tity of jiine timber, to be met witli Iiere ; and although the soil on the western side of the island is rirher in some 2')laces, this country, taking all its advantages intn (■(insi(h-ration, offers more immediate inducement to settlers."' (TJiis -was Avritten liefore the railway leached western Xewrnuudlaud.) THE GAMliO COUNTliY. The Rejiort states as follows :-—" 'Jlu' tindu-i' on the Cambo, especially in the valley of tlie Triton IJiver, i> nl-iv tine. Pine is abundant, and though m)t so large as that of tlie (iander, is of excellent ([uality. The white In'rcli, spruce and tir, along the banks of the river, are ]-euiark;il)ly tine ; indeed I have seldom ."^een finer in any part of the island. The land a\ailalile for general agriculture in the \-alley of the (Jandio is not extensive, being chietly confined to the alhn ial Hats on either side of the river. These, howevei', are iVe([Uently lirhly luxuriant, as testi- fied by the indigenous vegetatiiluated in lat. 48° 46' 5" and long. 54° li' 32". Two ndles ami Ihree-ijunrters from its outlet, it exjiands into a long narrow lake, known to the lumber-men as the First or Lower (Jambo Pond. It then con- tracts at a place called the Straits Ibi' a little over a nnle, and expands again into the Second oi- l'p])er (Jaudio I'dud, nearlv equal in length to the first, but suniewhat wider. ' 108 AGRICULTri.ML RKSOUltCES. SMALLER AGKICT LTUi: AL SECTIONS. Wu have now gone over tlie great agricultural regions on the Avestern ami eastern divisions u[' tlie islands, and shown the ex- tent and character of the lands suited for settlement in those regions, as well as their chief topograjjhical features. Tlie smaller ti'aets of land fitted for agricultural operations are too numerous to admit of a iletailed account. They are found along the hanks of the smaller .-^treain^ and around the heads of all tlie great bays. In many places they are in small and detached jiatclies, witli large stretclies of swampy, rocky, or huulder- eovered land between ; but uniti'd, they constitute a large area of valualile land. The principal of these minor farming districts are in Bonavista Bay, arouud thi' >lHircs and arms of wliicli there is much fertile soil ; the nortli si(h' of Smitli's Sound, Trinity l>ay, Placentia Bay, St. Mary's Pcnin-ula, and esjiecially the f^alnionier Arm of that bay. Thuugh much of the great Penin- .sula of Avalon consist of a ]>nL)r, roiky, swampy or absolutely barren soil ; yet tlu-re are, hei>' and there, wide area^ of soil wliich aix mih's scpiare, and tlius contain thirty-six .s(j[uare miles, 'i'hey are sul)-ilivided into S(piare mile blocks, A(:;ki('Ultui;al itEsourtCES. 100 ^aeli having its own imiuber, the numbers ranging from one to thirty-six, and are arranged on a maji. Eacli square mile again Is snb-divided into four equal parts, each containing one hun- ^Ired and sixty acrt's, wliich constitute a farm. This township survey lias made known many valuable tracts of land where previously none was su])posed to exist. The proximity of the railway has greatly enhanced their value. The land reclaimed iiud cultivated in thi' neighbourhood of Whitl)ourne, where a pretty \ illage is growing up, is an illustration of the revolution wrought liy tin- introduction of a railway. A large quantity of gooil timbei- li:is lieen cut along portions of this locality, and niore remains to be utilized. The total area of reclaimable land evQii in this unpromising section of the counti-y is far greater than might be suj)posed, so that numljers of farms might be located here at no great distance from the railway. The eight townships laid out lure contain seventy s(piai'e miles, or 48,800 iicres, of fairly gill Milam I. This wouhl give four hundred and forty-eight farms nf nue hundred acres each. TKST13IONY OF COMPETENT 3IEX. In corroboration of the reports of professional and scientific jnen, it may not be amiss to rite the opinions of some other com- petent jtidges in regard to the agricultural capabilities of the island. Sir .b)lin Haivey was appointed Governor of New- founilland in 1842. He \\as a man of much intelligence and energy, and was well actpiainted with Canada and the Lower Provinces. In one of his s])eeches at the opening of the Legis- lature, he used the following words: — "And here I will not deny niyself the satisfaction of recording this public declaration ■of my conviction, deri\-ed from such observation and information as a residence in the island for np^'ards of a yi'ar has enabled me to acquire, that, both as regards climate and agricultural capabilities, Newfoundland in many respects need not shrink from a comparison with the most favoured provinces of Xorth America. Its summers, though short, enjoy an extraordinary degree of vegetative power, which only recpiires to be duly taken advantage of ; its winters are neither unu.-ually long nor severe ; no AGRrf'iLTri.'Ar, i;Ksf»ri;cES. and its autumnal seasons aic as opi-n .unl Hm- as those of any of the neiglilxmring colonic--. In jxiinl <>{' liili natural grasses, na ])art of British Xoi'tli Anu-riia ])i(>iluees greater abundance. — Newfoundland, in fact, a])pears to uw calculated to become es-- sentially a rich grazing count ly, ami its varied agricultural resources appear only to re([uirc roads and settlements to force them into highly remunerative (U'\clopinent."' It should be re- membered that lie spoke in the>c terms of the island, being ac(|uainted only with the jioorest jiortions around a ])ortion of the eastern coast and bays. Tlic very existence of the fine valleys descrilied in the prccc(ling pages was unknown in his day. SIK It. BONNYCASTI.E. Sir Eicharil Bonnycastle, a military officer of distinct ioiL who- s]ient some years in the island, and has written one of the best books on the country, was strongly impressed with its agricul- tural resoui'ces. His work bears the date of 1842, and in it lie- earnestly advocates colonization and agricultui'al development. He speaks of Newfoundland as " possessing a climatt' of extra- ordinary salubrity," ami jaedicted that if opened up for settle- ment it Avould "take its rank amongst the more flourishing colonies of the neighlinuring continent." He enumerated among the vegetable productions which he saw groAving and thriving admiral ily, cucumbei'S, melons, cabbages, cauliflowers, l)roccoli, parsnips, carrots, peas, potatoes. "The garden straw! lerry and raspberry of every variety thriw without more than the usual care. Potatoes, oats, turni2>s and all the necessary \('getables can readily l)e reared, even on the very wor.-t portions of such a wilderness as that of the littoral." . . . "The veiy worst portion of the soil is that in the neighbourhood ot St. .John's,. and yet here, in all directions, the jilough speeds and the ancient forest has vanished." Bonnycastle's reference to the soil in the neighbourhood of St. .lohn's is correct. It is among.st the poorest in the island. More- H\'er, as this is the most easterly projection of the coast, it is that {m which the effects of the Arctic current are most felt and the AGEICULTinAL I^ESOlTvCES. Ill harsli easterly wiiul.- aiv most diilly, and yet in cvi'iy ilircrtiou for miles around tile city arc wcU-cuItivateil, proiUutivc larms, and a considerable i'arminc- ]Mi|nilatil' St. John's," says Bouuy- castle, "is especially well adapted for a grazing country, and the imi^orted and home-raised catlU' look as plumj) and as sleek as those of any other part of the world : and I have seen cows at some of the farms which wnuM nol discredit the dairies of Devon." AGRICLI.Tl UAI. .SHOAV. Since Bonnycastle's day farming around St. John's lias jnade ' great advances, and a superior stock of cattle and sheep has been introduced. The annual agricultural shows held in the city would not discredit any country. The exhibits of root crops and grain, the products of the dairy, the cattli' and shee]), all bear witness to the industry of the ]ie(iple and the jiniductiveness of the soil when duly cultivated. What then mav we not antici- pate when the deep soil of the sheltered valleys in the warmer interior and the more favoured Avest coast are brimght under cultivation. SIR STKPHEX Hll.r. Sir Stephen Hill, who was C4overnor in 1873, says in one of liis despatches that "the agricidtural cajiahilities of the island are far greater than are usually assigned to it, and that large portions of it are capable of a high cultivation. The area of the fertile portions, added together, amount to many millions of acres. With respect to the jjroducts of the colony, potatoes, turnips, cabbages, peas, beans and indeed all vegetables which grow in England, arrive at the highest state of ]ierfection in Newfoundland. Of cereals, its Parley and oats will not suffer by comparison with the ]iiddiice of \o\a Scotia ; and even wheat can be ripened in spots, tliougli as a rule not as a profit- able crop. As regards fruit, cunvints, -tiawberries, gooseberries and cherries, with other fruit, gi-ow in the gardens ; and count- 112 AGRICULTUEAL JiESOUECES. Jess f<])ecit's (if berries are fouml in great profusion tlirongliout the couiilrv.'' KEPOET OF THE JOINT C03IMITTEE. lu 1880 a Joint Committee of the Council and House of As- sembly, appointed to consider the i[Uestion of constructing a railway in the island, prescuti'il a report of -which the folhjwing are extracts : — " Our agi'icidtural industry, thougli prosccutetl to a vahialilc extent, is yet susreptil^e of very enharged develop- ment. Vast stretclies of agricultural hand, extending from Ti'inily ]^>ay nortli, ahing the heads of Bonavista Bay, Gander Bay, and Exploits Eiver, as Avell as on the west coast, m-ed only the emjdoyment of well-directed Lilioui' to convert them into means of independi'ut sujiport for ihousands of the ]ioiiulation.'' . . . " The incpury is furtlu-r suggested whether this colony bhouM niit lierome an e'xportei' of live stock : and wt- liave little diliiculty in atlirming this position. For grazing purjioses we have large ti"icts that we believe ciiiiiiol be surjtassed in Biiti.sh Xorth America ; and when Ave regard our proximity to Englaml, and the all-important consideration of a short voyage for live stock, the advantages which we possess in this connection are too manih'st to be the sul)ject of question or ai'gument." fSlK HEXKY BLAKE'S OPINION. .Sir Henry Blake, now Coveiaior of Jamaica, was (iovernor of Newfoundland in 1887, and was one of the ablest and most tMiergetic rulers the i.sland has seeu. In opening the annual agri- cultural exhibition at St. .lolm's, in that year, he said : — '' That a society of lietween 40 and .")() members should get up such an agricultui'al sliow as this, in wln'cli j>rizes to the amount of $^500 and .$'600 are offered, besides the two handsome silver cups, pre- .sented for competition, is highly . Pei-haps the best answer to those who are incredulous i-cgard- ing the agricultural capabilities of Newfoundland, is to show what has been accom])Ushed already in the cultivation of the soil, and the rearing of farm-stock. Owing to the causes already enumerated —the early pi'ohiliition of settleuient, the want of roads and railways to a com])aratively recent date, so that the larger tracts of good laud were inaccessible ; and the aluiost ex- clusive em})loyment (jf the ])eople in the fishing industry, — the progress of agriculture has been very slow. Still, with all these drawbacks, it is marvcdlous to fiud how great are the results of the liuiited industry as yet devoted to farmiug. The cultivation of land is coufiued to the neighbourhood of the settlements and towns, and the jiortions opened up by the roads which c(jnnect them. There are l)Ut few farms more than three or four miles from the sea-coast ; so that ouly the poorest portions of the soil have yet been brought under culture, aud in the regions least favoured in regard to climate, — the ca>ti'rn shore. 114 AGl'JCULTriiAL i;KS< XKCES. CENSUS OF 1891— AGKIClI.TIlJ.Vr, I'KODUCTS. Tlie Census for 1891 eiial)k's tis to Inriii a correct estimate of tlie condition of agricniture at tlic jiresi-nt time. According to tlie returns of the census, tlieiv are 179,21") acres of land occu- ]ii(Ml ; 04,494 acres of imjirovcd lauined with tishing the people are jirospcrous and the cases of want very few. The following talde shows approximately the value of the ani- mals, and also of the annual farm produce I'm- the year 1891 : — (),138 Horses, value.l at ^40 each .... ^•24.3,520' 10,863 ]Milch Cows, valued at .$-30 each . . . 325,89a 12,959 Other Horned Cattle, valued at .!s'20 each . 259,180- 60,840 Sheep, valued at ^4 each .... 243,360' 32,011 Swine, valued at ,^3 each .... 96,033 8,715 Goats, valued at ^'2 each 17,430' Total $1,189,413- FARM rilODK i:. The farm produce for 1891 amounted to — 491 Bushels of Wheat and Barlev, at -S'l per Inidi. 8491 12,900 Bushels of Oats, at 50 cents per hush. . . 6,450 36,032 Tons of Hav, at .J^20 per ton . . . 720,640 481,024 Barrels of Potatoes, at -S'l ]>er lul. . . 481,024 60,235 Barrels of Turnii)s, at -Ji'l l»-i' hrl. . . 60,235 86,411 Barrels of other roots, at S'l per Inl. . . 86,411 401,716 Lbs. Butter, at 20 cents per 11.. . . . 80,343 Milk and Green Vegetables, (-timated at . 96,000' 154,021 Lbs. Wool, at 20 cents per lb. . . . 30.804 Total ^1,562,398- A(;i;1(Ii;iti;ai, UKSontcEs. 115 Till,' tnllnwiiiL; lalilc slinws liy (■(iiupiirisou with till' 2>ivei-ili]iiT tabli' tl]i- aih.iii.'c ill till' l^•allill^ ])r()(lucts emuuei-atcil aliovc. iu .seven yciu-s— IVdiii 1884 till 18!)] : — Ci-Nsrs 1884. 4(J2 Bu.-li.'ls ..r Wlu'ul ainl ISarley. 5,393 Biislu'ls of Oats. 28,312 Tons of Hay. ;302,649 Barrels of Potatoes. 24,006 Barn-Is of Turnips. 21,144 BaiTi'ls of otlR-r root .i-ops. 5,534 Horses. 8,040 Milch ( 'ows. 11,844 Other Horucl ("attic 40,326 Sheej.. 21,555 Swine. 7,934 (^oats. :247,064 Ll>s. Butter. ANXUAI. IXCO-AIl'] IK<)>I CATTI.K, KTC. There is an addition to l>e made to the value of the farm ])ro- •ducts in 1891 in order to an i\c at the real annual value of the .cultivated land. It will he seen tliat the Cen.sus does not iic»te the annual income derived IVoiu rattle, sheej), sAvine and goats, which must reach a large amount. Only an approximate calcu- lation can l)e made ; l)ut if Me take the number of calves and 'lambs produced during thr year 1891, and the products of 21,555 swine, the value of the wlioh' could not be less than -$'520,000. When we add to this the annual jiroducts of 6,138 horses ; of -8,715 goats; of 127,420 fowl ;■ togethei with fruits (including -wild berries), vegetables, etc., .$'212,000 would not bean exce.ssi\e .estimate of their value ; so that we arrive at a total of $732,000 •derivable from these sources, which being added to the value of the growing crops as already stated ($1,562,398) gives a total of ^2,295,398 as the agricuUund ]M-.)diicts of the island in 1891. Let us now look at the aiuoiuit of agricultural jiroducts and ;animals imported into Xewfoundlaiid, all, or nearly all, of which' 11(5 At;r;icuLTri;AL i;Esorj;CEs. could Iv laisfd in tli • cotiiitiv, if our agriLultnio on a more exteusi\e ^cale ami with greater skill table shows tlie iiii]>orts of such products in the 2,512 Oxen and Cows, valued at 118 Pigs and Calves, valued at 3,48o Sheep, valued at ... . 230 Horses, valued at . 2,071 Cwts. Baci^n and Hams, valued at . 13,971 Brls. Beef and Pigs Heads, valued at 14,510 Cwts. Butter and Oleomargarine, valued 1,384 Cwst. Cheese, valued at . 39,288 Lbs. Feathers, valued at . 367,978 Lbs. Fresh Meat and Poultry, valued at 7,459 Brls. Indian Meal, valuetl at . Indian Corn, valued at . 20,867 Bushels Oats, Aalue;! at . 3,009 Brls. Oatmeal, valued at 6,642 Brls. Pea Avliicli arc anmially smt nut nf iln> (•omiti-v lo pay ihc aL;i-i(iil- turists of (itlu'i- lamls, wuiiM Iji- ntaiuL-d to bcni-fit XcMioiiinllanil farmers ami I'uruisli iucrca^i-il employment to the ]ieo|ile. it' liome manufactures are wmtliy of encouragement, still more so- are food factories in the siia]>e of farms. It is evident iVom the foregoing return^ tliat, for- >niiie time to come, the produce of the farm and the dair>', and th<' raising of stock will tind a re- munerative market in the i>land itself, apart altogethei- fi-i m exportation. ]\Iui'h (an he done to promote agiiculture liy the e.stablisliment of nioih'l firm-: the increase of agriiiill inal societies; the introduction of iiii]iroved breeding stock ; the impartation to the young of a knowledge of the elements o|' agri- culture by means of a good texidiook to be used in the scIkkjIs and colleges. Now that the iild tradition.- about the barrenness of the soil are largely di.~>ipated. and that we begin to have ciai- fidence in the capabilities of the country it becomes evident that the progress ami prosperty of the colon}' depend very laigely cm the employment of the people in agricultural pursuits. There is room for thousmd- o|' emigrants from other countries ; Imt lueantime our suriilu- population, wdio cannot tind subsistence from sea-farming, should lie drafted to the land and along the liues of railway, fhc long a minister of Agriculture will be- come a necessity, and hi- dejiartment will become the most useful iu connection with the jiublic ser\ice. PROBABLK INtlJKASK Ol I'lUCES OF FARM ri:<»I)l CTS. There is another considei'ation — the pi-oximity of this islant of the United States or the Xorth-west of Canada. In the I'liited States the good wheat-growing lands iire nearly all occupied ; there are no more fertile regions to con- quer. The big farms, where most of the labour is done by macliinery and hoi-ses, are no hniger found to lie lionanzas owing 118 AGKi('i:i.Tri;Ai. uHsorHcEs. to the low ]irice of wlicat, and tlic teiidfiicy now is to small I'arnis. In tlie United Stales a niillinn a year are added to the population: so tliat, eve lon<<', cnnsunqilion will overtake ]n-o- , dnction, and the jirice- i.f lanii ]irnduce will rise, and small foi'ms of one liundre(l acres will uixc a eomfortable living to a family. As population imicases here the value of farm yvo- duets will he increased and laiaii-life will l)erome more at- tractive. The small-farm system, I'ur which Newfoundland is iidmii'ably adajited, is now superseding the large food-factories of the we^it, where the aim is to (diminati- the hand of man bj' machinery, to the destruction of social life in the country. Bet- ter times for our ])eoplc are not far off. Xewfoundlaud has at last a chance for turning to account her long-neglected fertile lands. CATTI^K AXI> SHKKP RAISING. With small farms the raising of cattle and sheep on a large scale, as has been already stated, could be carried (m over manj' thousands of acres -which ai'c admiralily adapted for ranching ])urposes. Cattle thus raised could lie i I'ansjwi-ted in six or seven ilavs to England, and would arrive in excellent comlition, and would compete, at a great adxautage, in the market over animals that after a railway journey of Imndi-eds of miles have to undergo a sea-voyage of twelve or fouileen days, arriving in a deteriorated condition after many losses. FREEZIX*; rilOt KSSKS KOK >IEAT. Science has made great strides, in recent years, in the different methods of preserving meats in a IVesh state, so that the super- rtuity of one country can be transpoi-ted to another, where it is scarce and costly. Millions of tins of canned meats are now sent to all the great markets ol Kuro]>e, and the increase in this trade every year is enorniou-. 'i'he free/ing process for the j'l'cser- vation of meat of all kimls, game, p(jultry and fish, has now reached such a state of jierfection tliat it is no longer necessary to ])i-cserve them with salt, in oi(h'i- that they may " ci'oss the Jine'" when sent from Australia ir India to England. In cold A(;i;uLi;i'ri;.\i, iiKsorucEs'. ]]!> -couutrii's, sucli as Russia or ( 'aiiada, wIr'U tin.' season of uniu- teiTupted cold arrives, animals an- slaughtered and lid/en by the icj'' hand ol' nature, and arc thus jnescrved fresh I'or long jieriods'. If frozen on ice, oi- kept in contact with ice, the llavoui- will he greatly damaged ; hut, if dry-li'o/en and ke])t in an icy atmos- phere, the llavoni and ap])earance do not suffer, and tlie meat is fonnd very easy of digestion. Onee frozen, howevei-, it should never be aHowed to thaw until il is alxjut to lie cooked, other- wise it will sjioil with great rapidity. The reason of this is that. as water e.\]iauds in freezing, the watery tluid, comliine(l with the museulai- Hhre, Imi-.-ts the .^uii'ounding niendn-aneous tubes, .and ■when thawed it is in a condiiion to undergo ra]iid chendcal changes. TK.VXSl't)i:T (>l^ lUOZKN ^IK.VT, KTf. Should Newfoundland lieconu', a cattle and sheep raising coun- try, not oidy does its geograiihical iiosition furnish important facilities for the transportation of live stock, but the cohlness of its climate in wintei' would be favouivilile for a frozitu meat trade. Once the steady winter's cold sets in meats of all kinds, venison, game — such as ptarnugair —could be frozen, and iu re- frigerating apartments on board transported to other countries. roiJKST WKAI.TH OV THE ISLAND. The old tradition Avhicli represented the island as incapable of pioducing trees, except of \ei'y small size, and declared that ■ only a wivtched stunted growth was to bi' met with, is not yet • ipiite extinit. . How entirely contrary to fact are such I'eports has Ix'cn ali'cady shown in the foregoing chajiters. It is i|uite true that, from time to lime, foi'est-fircs have destroyed some sections of the heavily-timbered districts ; but tlie standing ti'ces are not seriously injured in these biu-nt districts, and most of them could still be turned to ])rofitable account, though the .appearance presented In' their Ideached trunks and leafless arms is sutticiently ghastly. The forest wealth, however, still remain- ing unutilized is immense. As already stated, these forests an* fciund cliiellv ia the valh'vs of the m-eat rivers and alomr the 120 AGRIcri/IIKAI, KKSOIKCES, l)ank.< (if their tiiluitaiifs ; also in tlie couutiv aiound SI. Guorge's- Bay. TIr- i)iiiiri])al vaiictii-s of tlic nnligviinus foivst growths are -whilf ]iiin-, white ami hlark >]>riii-c, lainarack nr larrh, fir, vt'lhiw and wliitc hiri'li. The yt-llow liirdi, whidi ahomuls largely in St. (ieorge"s Bay, i- said to hi- (-(jual in dviral)ility to- Eiiglisli oak, and, witli the spnue.- and huvhcs, is adiiiirahly adajited for shiii-l)nildiiig ]mr])OS('s. Thi' lumhi-r Irailc ah'i'ady ih^vedoju'd ly tlic portion of tlie new railway which lia> hecii coiiq^k-ti'd and oociated as far as- Exjiloits, furnislie-s anipU^ proof of tlic foic^t resonrcrs of tlie country, and gives good promise for the fntnic. — (Sir clmji. III.)- TIMIJKK OF THK OANDEK DISTRICT. The great vaUey of tlie (ianih-r is (h-stined to he tlie most ini- jjortant Inndiering regifHi in tlie island. Its topography, soil and tbrest growths have been alreaily touehed on in ('hai)tei- III. on Beads and Bailways. The ( ieologieal report contains the fol- lowing: — "Excejit where partially denuded hy fire, the whole valley of the rivei', the shores of the lake and the Ijanks of the tributaries are all denstdy clad by fVa-est, among the most con- t>2)icuous trees of Avhich are pines, to all ai>pearance of the finest description. Upon the sonth-west arm, and at various ]iarts of the lake, groves of jjine may Ijc .seen where the average girth of the trees is not much, if anything, less than nine feet. On about one acre of Ptirface I measured 15 or 20 trees, the diameter of ■which varied from two and a-lialf to four anitrolnis, — proliably the most valu- able S2)ecies for the juanniactnre of lumljer. Fires swejit over many portions of this district, but the pine, though scorclied, does not appear to l)e much injitrcd so long as it lemains ^tandim:." A(ii;[cri;iTi;Ai. UKsoriicKs. liM THK FOKKSTS Ol" THK KXPLOITS. Next in I 111 Ici' as a luinlici-hit^' country is tlie Explnils Vallc-y. wliieh contains a very larg'c tinantity of jnne ami otlu-r valualile timber, to whieli refei-ence has already Leeu made. The report already i| noted says: "Between the Grand Falls and Badger Brook, at many ]iarts on lioth sides of the main river, pine nourishes luxuriantly, uuk Ii of MJiicli ajipears to Ik- of excellent quality, heing often oi' fail- diameter, straight and tall. These reaches also display a tine growth of other A'arieties of (iniher ; and at some i)arts, es])ecially ahove tlie forks of Sandy Brook, white birch often attains a \ery large size. About Red Indian Lake there i> a sii]hi1i growtli of pine, and spruce of large size, straight and tall. . . . '• The southern side of the Exploits jH'esents an unbnikiu dense forest, in a series of gentle undula- tions, far as the eye can reach. From the Victoria Ttiver to the lieail of the Ited Indian Lake, the country i- well-tiiiiliere(l throughoul." . . . " Witli a splendid river, almiidaiit timber and a feilile soil, tliis reginn is marked out hn- a prosperous settlement.'" THK m>IIJKK FORESTS. The valli'V of the Humljer is another district lidily wooded, where lumlicring operations have been carried on for many years on an extensive scale. " Tamarack or juniper is not rare ; yellow birch of large dimensions are abundant ; white pine ami spiiice grow in the greatest profusion, frequently of a size and ([uality not greatly inferior, if not eipial to the best that is now brought to market into (rasjie and other parts of the Lower I'loviiice of Canada." Mr. McLeod, a Canadian civil engineer, said in his Report of 1875 : — " To give a rough estimate of the extent of tine timbered land from the mouth of the Humber to the Grand Lake Brook, I should say that in all there is not less than 20 s(piare miles, ■which would on the average yield live trees of from 1,000 to 2,500 superficial feet each to the acre. This would give 3,200 trees to the square mile, which at an average board measurement of say 1,500 feet, gives per square mile 4,800,000 sipiare feet. 122 A(;i;ii'ri;rii;Ai, iiKsoriicES. 'This multii.]iL-(l l.\ 20 t;ivrs !)f;,000,0()0 l\-vX as tlic ([uautity of standing pine on tin- Huniber/' The (quality of the pine lie pro- nonnced "ahovc llie oi'dinavv market run.'' ST. <;K()U(iK'S BAY I.U3IUKK. Tlie.se are tin- princijial luniliering regioirs ; luit, as already stated, the valleys around St. (xcorge'.s Bay and the Codroy Val- leys rontaiu a hue growth of mixed fore.st timher — spruee, pine, liirrh and tir. ()n most of the .smaller streams there are also groves of pine and various othei- trees, while the .same hohls good regarding the heads uf many of the Ijays. From all this it 1;^ evident that "in regard to forest wealth and huuhering capa- bilities, Newfoundland lioMs a very important plaee.' CHAPTER A'. MINERAL RESOURCES. THE FIRST MIXES. It wa.'^ not till a comparatively recent date tliat Xewfoundlantl Avas known to contain mineral treasures of immense value. Tlie late Mr. C. F. Bennett was the pioui-er of mining enterj)rise. Mr. Smitli McKay was the tirst discoverer of copper ore at a small fisliing-hamlet called Tilt Cove, in the year 1857. Here a mine was 02)ened in 18G4 under the joint management of Messrs. Bennett and McKay. During the following tifteen years Tilt Cove mine yielded about 50,000 tons of copper uw, valued at 31,572,154; and nickel ore worth §-32,740. It continues to l)e worked till the present date and now gives em[iliiyineut to some 500 miners, and the village cuntains over a thousand inhaliitants. In 1875 another cojij^er mine was opened at P.etts Cove, about a dozen miles south of Tilt Cove. In four years the ([uantity of ore exi:)orted from it amounted to 122,556 tons, valueil at $'2,982,- 836. In 1878 a still richer depo.-it of copper (irc was opened at Little Bay, at no great distance from Bett"s Cove. Up to 1879 the total quantity of ores exported frnm all the mines reached in value ^4,629,889 or nearly a million jwunds sterling. This placed Newfoundland sixth among the copper-producing countries of the world. VAI.IE OF 3IIXEKAI. EXI'OIITS AT IMtJCSENT. That it still maintains its character as a mining cnuntrv ap- pears from the Customs Returns for 1891 and 1892. In the former year the value of all the ores exporte(l was .5'G24,750 ; in 1892 the value rose to ^1,006,592. Thus, at the present time, mining constitutes one of the leading industries nf the country ; though it may be safely aftirmed tliat it is yet in its infancy, and the near future -will witness great advances when the lailway has opened the country. 124 ^riNEKAL JtESOritCES. METALLIIKKOUS ZOXE. TliL' verdict of scii'iice warrants sucli an expectation. The larg-e ilevelojjment of tlie serjientine rocks in tlie island is a fact of iiriniary importance. These serpentines l^elong to what in Canadian Geology is termed the (^)ue1)ec Group of the Lower Silurian Series, and to the middle or Lau/.on division of that .■series. "The Lanzon division," says Sir William Logan, "is the metalliferous zone of the Lower Silurian in North America. It is rich in co])per ores, chieHy as interstratitied cupriferous slates, and is accompanied l)y silver, gohl, nickel and chromium ores." This Lauzon division is the one which is develoj)ed in Newfound- land, and in which all the copper mines are situated. It is of importance therefore to ascertain wliat is tlie extent of these ser- l)entine niineral-l)earing rocks in the island. Tlie Geological Survey's Re])ort gives the following tnistwoithy t'stiuiate of the .ser^K'ntines : — ]jetween Hare and Pistulel Days North from Bonne Bay South from Hare Bay South fri)m B>i)une Bay South f)-om B)ay of Islands Surrounding Notre Dame I'ay Gander Lake and River ciunitry Bay d'Est River .... Total . . . 0,097 " KXTENT OV DEPOSITS. Tiu' whole shoi'es of the (xreat Bay of Notre Dame, where copper was first found, are of the sei'pentine formation, and so are its numerous clusters of islands. On the opjiosite shores, on the West Coast, at Bonne liay and Bay of Islands, there are large developments of the ser]unitine ; and there are strong reasons for believing that ihe serpentine foi'matiou runs across the island, between these two ]ioints, and prol)aMy comes to the surface at many jdaces far inland. The new line of railwav will greatly facilitate the exploration :)f this I'egion with the view of , :^30 Sq. ii}S. . 350 , ITo . 150 , 182 1,400 2,310 300 MINERAL KESOURCES. 125 turning to aeeouut its mineral deposits. It must he remembered too, tliat these remarks apply to copper mining alone ; but, as has been already sliown, otlier ores, sucli as asbestos, nickel, iron pyrites, lead and iron, are found, and give promise of profitable developments. Tlie coal-beds too, await examination and work- ing. All these considerations seem to mark out the island as one of the world's mining centres, in the near future. While the ^reat beds of serpentine liohl the copper treasures, present indi- cations warrant the belief that tlie Huronian and Lower Silurian rocks contain lead in workable quantities, in many localities, liaving a jiercentage of silver, while indications of gold are not wanting. The whole island, therefore, may be fairly regarded as more or less metalliferous, while coal-areas on the western coa.st increase the value of the whole mineral resources. Quite re- cently too, ]ietroleum lias been discovered on the western coast, but whether it is present in workable <|uantities has yet to be detei-mined. A company has been formed to turn it to account, iind an analysis shows that the ipiality of the oil is excellent. OPIXIOXS OF PKOFESSOR STEWART. Pi'ofessor Stewart, an eminent American mining exj^ert, visited the island a few years ago, and made a careful examination of .the mining region. In his report he said, among other things, " the cojijier ore of Newfoundland is a beautiful yellow sulphuret, free from arsenic or any undesirable ingredient, with a little iron, and containing from eight to twelve per cent, of pure copper. Finer co2)per ore is no where found. The character of the rocks in which it occurred gives an absolute assurance of perpetuity in the working. The rocks are metamorjihosed and laminated ; and the extent of mineral indications over extensive areas renders exhaustion in the working a 2:)ractical impossibility." LEAD ORE: Lead ore was first discovered at La ]\Ianche, near the north- .eastern extremity of Placentia Bay, ■\^•here for several years workings were carrieil on. The quality of the ore found here is veiy fine. It produces 82 per cent, of metallic lead, and also 12G MiNEitAL ];Ksori;('Hs. contaiu^s a 2>ercentage of sihcr. In rmt-aii-l'drt, on tlie western sliore, a rich deposit of lead ore \vas discovered in 1875, and Avas worked for a short time witli A^ery promising results ; but on the protest of the French, avIio alleged that the working of a mine here was an infringement of tlu'ir treaty-rights, the Imperial authorities ordered tlie work to he sto])]>ed. Magnetic iron ore has been found in large quantities in St, George's Bay, and the Lanrentian hills contain indications of it. GYPSUM AND JIAKBLES. The Geological Survey's report states that "gypsum is distri- buted more profusely and in greater volume in the carljoniferous districts than in any part of the American Continent of the same extent." In St. (ieorge's Bay and Codrov tlie de\elopment3 of gypsum are immense. Marbles, too, of almost every shade of colour, have been produced fi'om various parts of the coast, on Itoth the eastern and Avestern shores. The development at Bay of Islands is extensi\-e. ({ranite of the fine.-t ([uality, building .stone.s, Avhet-stones and lime-stones are in ample pi'ofusion. — Eoofing-slate can al-o be supplied in aljundance. Before passing from the mineral resources of the island it may l)e well to make s})ecial reference to the Iron Pyrites' Mine in. Pilley's Island, Notre Dame Bay. This uuue lias been Avorked for eight or ten years, and is at present one of the most A"aluable and profitable mines in the country. The (piality of the pyrites which it yields is .said to be the finest in the Avorld, containing fifty-tAvo ])er cent, of sulphur, and gi^■ing a j'esidutim of iron, after the suljihiii' is extracted, Avhich is manufactured into the finest steel. Tlu' ]iyrites is shipped at the rate of from 30,000 to 40,000 tons annually to the United States, Avhert' it is used for the manufacture of sulphuric acid, copjieras, etc. A visit to this noAV celebrated mine Avill be found most interesting. The Avork- ings are evtensive and are carried on Avith the most improved luachinery and under scientific direction. Adjoining it is an- other dejKjsit of iron pyrites of the same (piality, which is re- ])orterl to l)e vei'y I'xteusive and Avill prolialily be sliiortly worked^ MTNKIJAI. KESOrnCES, 127 fis the tests apjilifi] tn it, umlcr tlic diicction of miiiiiii;' i-xiuTts, • are said to be very satisfactory. Tin- I'acilitics for \\()j-kiii;4 if are all tliat could be dt'sircd. The a]i[ilication of capital and enterprise is alone neeiled to convei't if into a piodactive mine. There Is an excellent liarlionr close to the dei>osit, having deep ' Avater vithin a few feet of the shoic The demand foi- this mineral is steadily increasing. PILtEVS ISr.AND— IKON rVKITKS— TOTAT. KXPOIITS or OIIK. Returns of the (piantities of iron pyrites shipped in 1893,- compiled hy T. X. Mollo\', Esq., American Consul, apj^eared in The Trade Review of Jilarcli 10th, 1894. These returns show that in that year there were exported to the United States 38,214 tons of iron pyrites from the Pilley's Island nune, the aggregate value of which was ^195,780. The mine shows no signs of exhaus- tion ; and the adjoining deposit, above referred to, is reported to contain a much larger c|uantity of the same mineral. A few years ago the mine whidi is now worked was sold for .*if300,000, and wouhl now probably bring a much higher price. Copper ore is also shipjjed to the Uuiteil States from Tilt Cove in con- siderable f[uantities. In 1893, according to ]\Ir. Molloy's returns, 23,097 tons of co])- per ore were thus shipped, the value of which was $'68,G04 ; so that the shipments of ore from Pilley's Island and Tilt Cove, that year, aggregated 58,311 tons, the value of which was 3-G4,384. In a valuable little pamphlet on "The Mineral Eesources of Newfoundland," by J. P. Howley, F.CS., head of the Geological Survey, published in 1892, statistics are given, com^'iled from the Customs' Returns, showing the exports of the various ores since the mines were first opened. According to these Returns the value of copper ore, regulus and ingots exported from 18G4 to the end of 1891, was no less than -^9,193,790. The value of iron i\vrites exported from 1886 to the end of 1891 was .S'247,087. To this must Ix' addeil the value of ])yrites exported in 1892, (Customs' Returns), -S'31G,.")84 ; ami that of 1893, $195,780— making a total of $'759,451 , as the value of the exports of pyrites 128 MINERAL ItESOURCES. since 1886. All the exijoits of other minerals, such as lead, nickel, etc., according to Mr. Howley's table, when added to the value of the copi)er and pyrites ex2)orts, .sliow an aggregate value of $'9,594,714 for the total ex])orts of ore till the end of 1891. Adding to this amount the Aalue of cojiper ore and jiyrites ex- ported 1892, (§1,006,592,) and the value of pyrites exj-orted 1893, Ave get an aggregati- of $10,777,080 as llu- value of all the min- . erals exixnled from 1864 to tlie end of 1893. KCOXO:>IIC .SUBSTAXCKS. In addition to the ores already named, Mr. Howley enumerates molylidenite, antimonite, iron ores, manganese, lead, asbestos, silver, gold, as occurring in vai'ious places, and sometimes in promising quantities. Building and ornamental materials, such as granites, syenites, sandstones, limestones, marbles, serjjentines, slates, as well as a variety of mineral substanci's ajiplicable to the tine arts and ornamental purposes, ari- also mentioned. Mr. Howley very justly remarks tliat "Tlie possession of so many useful minerals and economic substances in this island (the oldest and nearest British-American jjossession to Europe) should i)oint to Xewfoundland as a country most favourably situated for min- ing and manufacturing industries, second indeed to niiue of tin- other British-American possessions. The construction of main lines of railway through the island, now lieing vigorously j)ushed forward, must in tlie near future result in bringing alaout a greater activity in this direction. Already, although the im- mediate coast-line only is accessible to mining ca])italists, Xewfoundland ranks as one of tlie chief copper-producing coun- tries of the glolie. Yet even this industry may be sjiid to be merely in its infancy." I'KOSPKCTS OF MIXIXO ASBESTOS. Ml'. Howlev, iu tlie ]>aiii])hlet referred to, speaks of the re- , cently discovered asbestos deposits in the following terms: — "Asbestos, or chrysotile, deserves special mention, as it is likely to prove of very considerable economic importance ere long. This mineral has been recognized amongst the serjientine de- MINERAL RESOURCES. 129 •jDOsits of tlie island in many localities. It occurs in strings and threads of tine silky texture, tiaversing the masses of serpentine in all directions. Not until i|uite recently, however, was the iittention of capitalists called tn its existence here, and fairly unlisted in its development. The comparative scarcity of good material in America, and llie not distant prospect of the Canadian ■deposits of this valuable uiiiu-ial giving out, led to the large 'manufacturing firms of Clialmers, Spence & Co., of Boston, and •the John's Co., of New York, sending ]iersons to prospect in this ^^ountry. Certain ]u-operties known to contain asbestos, in the vieinity of Port-au-Port and Bay of Islands, were leased by them and (iperations connnenced by costeaning the surface, laying bare tile (le]i<)roduction of .this valualtle connnodity.'' Mu. wiiAAi^'s r.vri:K ox asrkstos. A pajier was read before the Mining Society of Nova Scotia Decern) ler 3rd, 1893, on ''Tlie Asl)estos Fields of Port-au-Port, Newfoundland," by Mr. C. E. Willis, a high authority on the subject. A few extracts ai-e subjoined : " Tlie metamorphic rocks find serpentines of the Eastern Townships of (Quebec and the 130 MIXERAf. l!E.SOrR('ES. -Ciaspe Peninsula, in ■wliicli tlic {'aiiailiau aslit-stos, or more pro- ]ierly .speaking cluysotile, is Inuml, ilip umler the (Inlf of St. Lawrence, ajipear again on tlie \ve>t cdast of Xewfoundlaiul and extend many mile.s inland, proljaMy entirely across the island, thongli in places, specially the gieat elevated central plateau, they are capped with granite rocks, and seemingly liave disa])- ])eared. Tliis entire area, extendin^L; aliout 100 miles nortli and south, and the entire width of tlie island east and west, can be safely called a serpentine country, and contains, according to Mi\ James P. HoAvley's estimate, 5,097 srpiare miles of serpentine rocks. "The serjientines, with the granulite dykes whicli everywhere intersect them, contain ^ast deposits of minerals, and are to-day nearly virgin fields, except on the immediate coast line, for the prospector or miner, and certain to become, in the immediate future, the seat of great mining o]ierations. " That the country has not long ere this taken a hrst rank as a mineral producer, is due to its former isolated ]>(isiti()n, ditti- culty of access, except in small sailing vessels, and other ulterior causes ; Ijut now, with regular and lVe(|uent steam conununi- cation, the prospector and engineer aiv forcing their way intO' the country, and soon it Avill be the scene of prosperous mining cam])s and a large mining industry. "The minerals met with are copper, whirli is found every- wliere, magnetic, hematite, chiomic and spi-cnlar iron ores, coal and petroleum, gold, sil\H-r and lead, nickel, iron pyriles, anti- mony, marbles, gypsum, mica and asbestos. " The existence of asbestos in this great belt of serpentine has long been known or supjjosed, and several well-known geologists, in their writings, as far bark as ten and fifteen yeai's ago, have predicted that it wor.ld be discovered in (piantities sutlieiently large tv be of econonuc value ; but it is oidy within the past three years that the attention of the miner has been turned in this direction, and is now attracting much interest in the island, " On the eastern coast of Port-au-Port, rising cmt of the sea to- a nearly vertical height of 1,800 feet, is a mountain known as .MINKKAT. ItKSOUlv'CKS, l.'M 'Ijlurt" Heail. Tlii- imiuiitaiu iU'li'iiuiiK'> ilic soutlierii liouiidai-v .(if tliL' scTpeiitim^s. " It was liere tin- a-ln-stos tii->I attrarte'il imu'li notice. Blnll' Hi'ail was long k 111 )\\ II Id ilu- lisln-riiuMi of tlic m-igliliourliood as ■'Cotton Ro(;k;' ami it raiiic in tin- kiuiwii'.lgc of tlic Hon. Pliiliii ^'Icai-y, of 8t. JolinV, who, sonit* tliree- years ago, equippeil a sniall e\]RMlition to ilo some j^i'ospecting woi'k in the neiglil)oui-- IkhiI. The .succes.s nut v. ith was so ininieiliate and mai'ked that ■iithei- claims were immediately secured, till in a sliort time tliirty -ijuare miles Nvere taken uji l)y jirospectors and specnlators, and the ])ast sunnner lia< witnessed a large amount of development work. Much of tlii- work has lieen of the must satisfactory natui-e til the owner-, and }ii-oves the field lo he a hirge and valualile one." The ]ia[iei- then ,uoes on to descrilie the operations of the ■••Halifax Asliestos ('n.'" in tin's region, which ajipear to he (if .;r very ]iromising character, al-o thdse of the "Newfoundland Mineral Syndicate" — an English Co., — and the Cleary claims, j\ll of which show satisfactory results. Tiie writer close.s in the following terms: — "Lahdiu- i- lioth almndant and cheap, and sujuilies can he readily olitaiiied and lande(l from a vessel within ii short distance of the mines. With water transportation at liand for the jiroduct, cheap lahour, and heing much nearer the. European markets than the dlher sources of supply will enable the operators to compete successfully with miiu's in othei- countries."' COAL ARKAS. Reference has already lieen made in the 3rd chapter lo the coal beds of St. George's Bay, whi(di is the principal caboniferous region in the island. Fifty years have ela])sed smce the dis- covery of coal there by the sulisequently distinguished geologist, Mr. .T. B. Jnkes, who was for many years ]3irector of the Irish (leological Survey. "When a young man he spent twelve months in the island and afterwards published a most interesting book on the results of his survey. He found a coal seam, three feet in thickness, containing caunel coal of excellent q^uality cropping lo2 .AriXEKAL liESOUliCES. out on till' liglit bank of tliu ^liddlt- Baiaclidis Biuuk, on the- south 8i(lc of St. Geoigt'V Bay. lu liis ivpuit ^Ir. Jukt-s savs : — '' There is no (loul)t of tlieiv liriiig mon- ln'ils in tlii^. vicinity, and of the inobability of all the icntic (if this Inw district being occupied liy a jn-oductivi- cr>al-tii-id.'" FiMin lair data Mr. Jidces calculated the extent of this small |i(irtiou of the inal-basin of Xewfoumlland at about :2.j miles wide liy 10 miles in len_L;lli. Mr. Murray, formerly Director of the Geolo<^ical Survey, alter a careful exploration of this region, mapped it out, and calculated that the ]ilau of one seam tliere drawn as three feet in tliickness, and occu])ying an area of 38 s(|uare miles, rontaius .")4,720,O0O chaldrons of coal, a vei-y considerable iinitinn of whieli he lie- lieved may be found witliin workalde depths. MK. HOWI.KY'S COAT. SKAMS. In 1873, another seaui of coal was disco\ered by Mr. J. V. Howley, F. (jT. S., at present Directoi' of the (_n-ological Survey, on Robinson's Brook, al>oru nine miles from its moutli, its thick- ne.s.s being four feet. It is a very liituniinous caking coal, emitting much gas rmder combustion, ami 1 aiming freely. A second seam occurs in the .same section, one foot five inches in thickness. The three seams give a tliickness of eight feet of coal. None of these seams has yet been woi-ked ; but the advent of the railway will pioneer the way for their develoiiiueut. In 1S91 the im])ortation of coal, maiidv from ("a]ie Ih-eton, amouideil to 97,327 tons, A^alue $'243,310. A\'ere the coal mines in St. (leorge's Bay Avorked, there is no reason ^^hy the whole of this large con- sumption shciuld not Ix' supidied froui these local depo.sits. Its transportation by the i-ailway or l)v sea Avould Ije easy, and the price to consumers woulil no doubt be lowered. The money now sent out of tlie country would lie emjdoyed in 2>;wing the wages of miners, and carrying on the mining ojierations : and thus a great im2)ulse would be given to' trade in all its branches. The coal requiied for working the mines and operating the railway could be su2iplied fnim this soiu'ce at a reduced cost. :mi\ki;ai. kksoiiices. i:j3 I.ATKNT SLJtVKV. Ill 188!J, a uinrr tlmrnugli cxaiiiinatidu ot'lliis ccal ili>tiirl was oanii-il out liy llic stall' of tin- Cu-ologicnl Siu-vt-y. Tliu result is tlius (lescrilx-(l hy Mi-. Huwk'v : — " Si-veial soaius of i^ood coal were found wliidi wvw uucovi-n-d at tlicii- outcroits, and liaccd for sonic distance, so as to obtain accurate and n-liaMe mea>ui-e- nieiits, and good average specimens of tlie i[uality of llie mineral. Referring to tlie rejioit of tliat year it sliows that altogether four- teen seaiiis of coal, of a varying thickness, from a few inclies up to six feet weic uncovered on one small 1 nook ; three .-eam- on another, two miles distant, and four small seams on a lidrd lirook, -till farther ea.-t ward some two anil a half miles. . . . ''These witli some smaller ones aggregate a thickness of 27 feet of coal in the section which is repeated by being brought again to the siir- fa3e on tlie other side of the synclinal trough. There is leason to believe that the-e do not represent all the seams in this section. "In the central carlioniferous trough which wa- llie object of special investigation la>l season, several seams of coal were found in the region of the (Jraiul Lake, occupying another long, narrow synclinal trough. Two sections cross this trough, ami at two miles distant from each other on tlie strike, were measured with the result that, in the first one, .sixteen outcrops of coal were ob- served, and in tlie secoml, twenty-eight outcioiKs. Tliese are not separate and distinct seams, Imt the same seams repeated by tlie doubling up of tlie strata. Xone of the seams are large ; only a few averaging three feet of coal each. Many of the smaller seams of good coal are so close together, being divided only liy five or six feet of loose shaly .strata, and all in vertical position,— that I believe several of tliese could be worked as (me seam by a single AN1)S. 135 I.ICEXSKS OF OCClirATION OF CROWN LAND. Tiic IStli Stctiou pi'ovidcs lui' the issue of licenses of occupa- -liuu of uiuijipropriated Crown Land, on payment of a fee of five -dolliirs for eaeli one liumlreil and sixty acres, and for not more than (1,400 acres, suhject to tlie condition that tlie licensee shall, ^vitliin two years, settle upon tlie land one family for eacli 160 .acres, and for a period of live years cause to he cleai'ed at least; two acres per year for every 100 acres so licensed, and continue -the same under cultivation, and continue the same families thereon, or others in lieu thereof, for a period of ten years from the exiiiivitiun of tlie said five years ; u]>on th / performance of which conditions the licensee shall be entitled to a grant in fee ,of the said land. HCENSKS KNTITI.ING TO GRANTS. The IGtli section provides for the issue of licenses of occupation of areas of 5,000 acres, which licenses shall entitle the hohler to .grants in fee on performance of the following terms and condi- tions : that the holder of the license shall, within two years from the date of the license, clear ane exempt from attachment, le\y, or execution, sale for the payment of his tlebts or othei- purposes, and from the laws of conveyance, dis- tribution, anil devise or bequest, except as further provided in the Act. GRAXT IN FEE FOR HOMESTEAD. Any head of a family, or male of tlu' age of eighteen, may, hy paying a fee of S'lO, obtain a location ticket for any ([uantity not exceeding one humlred and sixty acres for the purpose of securing a homestead right. To secure a grant in fee of such homestead, the holder of the location ticket must commence clearing within six months after its date ; must build a house tit for habitation of not less dimensions than twenty feet by sixteen, iind clear and cultivate not less than three acres within two years, six acres within three years, and continuously cultivate all the land cleared during sucli three years, and reside con- tinuously upon such land for the term of three years next suc- ceeding such date, and thence up to the issue of the grai^t. A person holding a location ticket for a homestead right shall be entitled, on payment of a fee of ten dollars, to receive a license to occupy an adjoining one hundred and sixty acres, or less, quantity of Crown land then unreclaimed ; and, at tlie expira- tion of the period of three years, he shall be entitled to a grant of tlie said land so licensed at the Government ]iriiH' of thiity cents an acre. n;i»v.x LAN! IS. 1.37 IM3IIGKANTS IX C031MI NITIKS. Tlic 40tli st'ctimi makes provision for tlie M'ttlfiuuiit of iiuiui- grauts in coiiniiuuitie.s, ami of lionic-twul settlers in groups of not less tlian twenty families, should sudi desire to st.4tle to- gether ill liamlets or villa<;es. In snch cases the Governor in Council may, at discretion, vary the requii'ements as to rtsi- dence, but not as to cultivation of each separate quarter section as a homestead. TIMBEK AND TIMBKK LANDS. Sections 54 to 65, inclusive, regulate the lea.sing of tiniLer lands, aul)ject to such reservations as are necessary for tlie pur- poses of the fisheries. LICENSES TO CUT TIMBER. After one month's notice in the Roijnl (j(c:i-ftc the Governor in Council may grant licenses to cut timl)er on the ungranted Crown lands for a period not exceeding twenty-one years ; the lessee to erect a saw-mill or mills of a certain caj^acity, and com- mence work within two years from the date of said license ; also to pay, ill addition to the Ixuius, an annual ground-rent of two dollars 2)er stpiare mile, and further, a royalty at the rate of fifty cents per 1,000 feet, board measure, on the trees cut down. For the other conditions attached to timber licenses the Acti itself must be consulted. PAPER PULP ACT. The Governor in Council may, after one montlfs notice in the Royal (rKrcettc, grant licenses to cut timber on ungranted Crown lands, in extent not less than five or more than one hundred and fifty square miles, which shall be in one parcel or block, for the jnirpose of manufacturing paper or jiaper pulp, for a period not exceeding ninety-nine years, and containing the following con- ditions : The licensee, on the issue of his license, to pay at the rate of twenty dollars for each sf[uare mile of land included in liis license : and, at the end of twenty-five years of the said term, a further sum at the rate of twenty dollars for each square mile ; and, at the end of fifty years a similar sum, and at the end of I.jS crdwx lands. sev(-'iity-livc wars a t'lutlier saiu of iIil' saiuf aniouiit for each ,s([uari' mile'. Also, tlic licfiHL'e shall, witliiu five years al'ter the (late o[ his li(_v'iise, l'X]>l'1ii1 a smu of nut less than ^1,000 for eacli sciuare mile on the ei-eetiou of l>uil(lin<>'s and machiuery for ^aitl manufaeture, said exj>en litnre to commence within two years of the date of license. See the Act itself for other ciMiditions. MINKRAL, LAND. "When any p,'rs(jn shall discover a vein, lode or depo-it of mineral, and desires to ohtain a lease, lie shall mark the land by foiii- lioundary posts or cairns, the extent of enclosed land not to exceed one s(piaiv mile, and shall, a-i soon as possible, apply to the Snrveyor ( reneral for a license, and deposit a lee of twenty dollars ; the first notice Hied to give in-iority of claim. The first license shall be i'or a year ; a payment of thirty dollars shall entitle to a liceir>e for another year ; and a further sum of fifty -J VICTOKIA. This Act i)rovide.s for the ai>i)ointment, hiennially, of a Boanl of Agriculture of nine jjersons, nominated hy the (Juvernoriu Couneil, of whom the Surveyor Geneiul is to he one. This Boaid is to promote the formation of agricultural societies throughout the Colony ; to acquii'e and ditfusc infoiiiiation about the rei[uiremeuts of agricultuiv ; to introduce improved hreeils of animals, new varieties of grain seeils, ])lants, etc.; to supervise and conduct a Stock or Model Fai'in ; to hold exhibi- tions of agricultui'al ]>roducts, animals and domestic manufac- tures, etc. The sum of $?5,000 per annum is apj)ropriated for the use of this Boaid. An Agricultural Society may be formed in any locality when 25 persons lieconie members, each jjaying not less than SI annually to the funds thereof; eaidi societv is entitled to draw from the grant to the Central Board an amount equal to double the amount of the subscriptions of the nu-mbers so raised and paid. SHKEP FARMING. The 104th section provides for granting licenses of occupation upon ungranted Crown Lands for the purpose of shee})-i'arming to the extent of three square miles for each license (such licenses not to exceed ten in number), for a period of ten years, subject to such tei'uis ami conditions as the Governor in Council mav determine. The lessee will become entitled to a grant in fee of the land so licensed, jirovided he maintains on the land so licensed a Hock of at least 500 sheep for a period t)f ten consecu- tive years. An oft'er is made of a bounty of .S'4G0 to be paid to the first two persons or companies, nr to any one of them, who- shall actually establish, stock with 500 sheep, and work sheep- i'ju'ms in the island, in accordance with the terms ol' tlie Act. chaptj:r VII. THE FISHERIES. The tislieries of Ncwfouudlauil cmistituU' the graiul staple in- tr\' of the couutiy. The gathering in of tlie sea-liarvest ha^ been and will long continue to he the chief employment of its jieople. On the exj^ort of the p)ro(lucts of the fi.sheries the trade of tlie colony mainly depends. Other induslries are developing a.s years roll on ; luit as yet thest- do not compare with the tisli- ing interests. Tliis appears very clearly tiom the census returns of 1891 which show that out of a po])ulatiun of 202,000 thei'e are 54,775 engaged in catching and curing fish ; while 825 aie en- gaged in lumbering ; 1,258 in mining and 1,058 in factories and Avorkshops, and 8,Gfi8 in otliei- employments. The products of till' fisheries constitute about four-fifths of the entire e.xjjorts. AVKKA(}K EXPORT OF FI.SHERY PRODUCTS. The following tal)le comjiiled from the Customs' Returns for the year 1891, the latest reliable returns which are available, >sliows tlie value of the exports of fishery i)ro(lucts for that year : Codfish, (dried) $4,032,201 " (boneless) 20,000 "• (green) 7,240 Oil, (cod) • 227,892 " (cod-liver) 3,798 " (Herring) 360 " (Seal) 414,584 " (Wliale) 3,600 Salmon (Pickled) 78,553 (Preserved) 1,758 Skins (Seal) 364,854 Sounds and Tongues . . . . 460 Loljsters 429,681 H.-rring (Frozen 21,539 " "(Pickled) 188,905 Total . . . $-5,794,925 THE FISHERIES. 141 KXPORTEU FROM I.AIJKADOR. 'Co.Ifi^li (Dried) ^832,324 Heiriiig 12,ir)3 .Salmon 13,034 Cod Oil r),852 Seal Oil 1,242 .Sealskins 127 Tiv.ut 228 .(hvL-nHsli 806 Total . . . -^865,766 Total ('>:|)i)rts lislu'rv ]>roilucts IVom Niid. and Lal.radoi- ,^^(;,GG0,691 The foregoing may lie regarded as fairly representing the mean annual yield of the tishcries in recent yeais. AVhen to this we add the value of Ihe tish con.sumed hy the people in the country, estimated at .$'400,000, we obtain ^7,060,691 a.s the average an- nual value of the whole fisheries of the country. lANADIAN FISHERIES. In 1891, the total value of the Canadian fisheries, including the salt water, lake and I'iver fisheries, was -$'18,978,078. KINDS OF FISHES, The iirinci])al commercial food fishes taken in Newfoundland waters are the cod, the heia-ing, the salmon and the lol).?ter. The seals are ta'ken amid the ice-fields off the north-eastern shore of the island,, and also in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, off the south- western and western coasts. NUMBERS OF FISHERMEN. The cod, salmon, herring and lobster fisheries are prosecuted on the shores and in the hays of the island ; the cod fishery i.s .also carried on upon the Great Bank and on the coast of Labra- dor. The number of men engaged in the bank fishery in 1891 was 3,269, hut there has been a decrease in the numlier of men and vessels employed since that date. In 1891, 199 vessels, with :a tonnage af 11,520 tons, took part in the bank fishery. The 142 THE FISTIKIHES. t)tal numliei' nf vt'>rels eiiiiilciVL'il din'ctly in tlic fi^lierios iii; 1891 M-as l,24i' ; tlicir tonnage, ."■)0,04l ton.^. Tlie nmnVii.'r of vessels engageil in the Labiador tislieiy that yeav was 859, with a tonnage *of 33,634. In the lobster factories the number of men employed thatjyear \\as 3,427 ami 1,380 women. Twenty-two stenn vessels took part in the seal tishery of 1893 ; their creAVs nuniliered 4,962 men. Tliose wlio engage in tlie seal hsliery,- which commences Mairli lOtli, afterwaids are employed in the otlier fislieries during the remainder of the year. COD FISHEEV. The cod fislieries of Newfoundland greatly exceed those of any otlier country in the world. The annual average expoit of cod is about 1,350,000 (piintals of 112 lbs. weight. The Dominion of Canada exjjorts an average of 450,000 quintals, and Norway about 751,000 quintals. The whole Norwegian catch averages 50,000,000 codfish. The aggregate annual catch of cdd in North American waters, (including the fisheries on flie 1 tanks), by French, American, Canadian and Newfoundland fishermen, is estimated at 3,700,000 ([uintals. The nundter ol' coilfish cap- tured to make up this weight of dried fish, allo-wing fifty to a ({Uintal, would be 18."),000,00U. This enormous anniial draft on- these extensive fisliing grounds has lieeu going on iVir centuries- without exhausting the supply, so prolific ai'e the codfish in these waters. EVOLUTION OF THIO COI> FIS^HKKY. For nearly four hirndred yeai's this fishery has lieen i)rosecntcd.- It ])egan a few years after Cabot's discoveries in 1497. The Bas(|ue, Normandy and Brittany fishermen led the way, and for a considerable time had these newly-discovered coil-kingdoms to tlieniselve.-. In the name Port-aux-Basque, the westei-n tei'minus of the new line of railway, and Harbour Bieton, these fishermen have left relics of themselves in Newfoundland ; while the island of Ca^ie Bieton obtaint'd its name lidui these anciiMit mariners. The English Avere at this time maiidy occupied with a lucrative fishery on the coasts of Iceland ; and though Newfoundland waS' THE FISHERIES. 14o' the shore of Placentia Bav. Permanent settlements of English 144 THE FISHERIES. l)L'gaii to take root in various liarboui's on the eastern and south- ern shores, ami these continued to grow in spite of all ditticulties and discouragements. STRUOGI.E OF KESIUEXT FISHERMEN. Tlien began the long and melancholy struggle, described in the Historical Sketch, lietween "the mercliant aent decay of the fisheries be arrested, hut that in due time, the exhausted \\aters will he rejdenished, and former abundance ii'estored. The methods of curing fish of all kinds, and preparing .andjiacking them foi market, will be impioved, and eonsequ-nit- ly tlu' value of the various proilucts enhanced. THE FUTURE OF THE COD FISHERY. Thus, under the better regulations now introduce([Ur name of 6«crrt/((o or nim(UUpi-rity that can never fail, and which the fluctuations of trade, tn- the raprice.s of fashion cannot seriously affect. Let Xewfouudland only cherish and develope her great- coil fishery, and in it her peojije have a mainstay that will ever ])rove a source of national wealth. THE AKCTIC CIJRKKNT LIVING SLIMK IT CAIililKS. There is another consideration which empha.sizes the .secvuity and permanence of this cod fishery. The Arctic Current, which washes the .shores of Lahrador and Newfoundland, is laden with the food on which the commercial fishes live and thrive, and l)rings with it a ne\er-failing sui)ply for their sustenance. 80 far from being unfavourahle to tlie production of life, the Arctic .seas and the great iiver> which they send forth ai'e swarming with minute forms of life, constituting, in many places, " a living mass, a vast ocean of living slime."' Swarms of minute crusta- ceans, annelids and mollusca feed on this " .slime," and in their turn become the tooil c>f larger marine animals, even up to the giant whale. Curiously I'nough this ocean .slime is most abun- dant in the coldest waters, and esjjecially in the neighbourhood of ice-fields and ice-bergs. Thus, then, the great ice-laden "river in the ocean" which rushes out of Baffin's Bay, carrying on its bo.som myriads of ice-bergs, and washing the shores of Lal)rador and Newfoundland, is swarming with the mim;te forms of marine life, from the diatom to the minute cru.stacean, and the crab and prawn, together with the molluscous animals and starfish in vast profusion, which contribute to the support of the great schools of cod which also find tlieir home there. Very wonderful are these great processes of nature. These vast battalions of ice-bergs, the THE FISPIKItfES. 149 ' terror of mariners, si.iiliiiays of Xewfound- land — bring with tlieia tlie " slinie-iood" on whicli the almost microscopic crustaceans live. These in tuin furnish food for tlio. caplin, the squid and the hciiing whicli, with multitudes of other forms, are devoured liy tlit- cod. Wlicu tin- end is assimilated by man, this great circle of nature i> complete. So long then as the Arctic cuirent flows the existence of the cod-tishery of New- foundland is assured. For the natural history of the cod, its distribution, movements, .spawning, modes of its capture ami cure, etc., the reader is re- ferred to " Hatton and Harvey's Newfoundland — the 01de>t British Colony." THK SKAL FISHEKV. Next to the i-od tishery tlie most valuable of tlie Newfoundland fi.sheries is that of the seal. While the cod fi.shery has been pro- secuted for almost four hundred years, the seal tishery is not more than ninety years old. It would aii[)ear tliat the attention of the people was so aljsorljed in capturing and curing cod that they neglected the oleaginous treasures which the vast ice-fields every year brought within their reach ; and the great seal-herds, were left to bring forth their young amid the icy solitudes, un- disturbed by the murderons gun, club and knife of tlie .seal hunter. But this paradisaical condition of the seal was not to la.st forever. The day at length came when the hunters forced their way through the crystal I'amparts by which nature had so long guarded these heli)les.s innocents. The nursery of countless mother seals was ti-ansfornied into a slaughterhouse, red with the blood of their murdered darlings, slain in their icy cradles ; and it became a .scene of horror and deatli. Such is the seal hunt of to-day, involving each year a vast destruction of old and young- seal life for the benefit of man. EVOLUTION OF THE SEAL FISHERY. The value of the seal for human nses and the right method of capturing it in these regions were slowly learnul. At first, seals 150 THE FISHERIKS. were taken iu nets, Avliich were placeil between llie shore and some islaml m- roek iit uu great distance. In their luigratorv movements, in tlie early part ot" winter, tlie seals move south along the shore ; and hy means of nets, in these narrow pas- sages, a certain niunljer were captured. The next step was shooting them IVmii large boats, amid the ice-Hoes. These Ijoats sailed aliout the middle of Api-il, after the ice liail broken up ; and, as at that date tiie yonng seals had left their icy cradles and taken to tlie water, only a few could be reached by the gnns ot" the huntei-s. As late as 1795 the Mhole catch of seals only amounted to OjOOO per annum. SKALING SCHOONEKS. At length an im[iortant step in advance was taken liy fitting . out small schooners of from thirty to fifty tons, and cavryiiig from twehe to eighteen men, the outfit of each ^'essel costing about three Inindivd dollars. The vessels were strongly built , and had apjilianees for encountering ice. At first they did not leave i»nrt till after the 21st of March, in order to avoid the .equinoctial gales, or '' St. Patrick's brush,'"' as they were called. Soon, however, tliev learneil by experience the advantage of making an earlier start, in order to reach the young harps before the\ had taken to the watei'. The first of March at length be- .came the usual time for starting on the seal hunt. In tlu'se little schooners the men speedily acquired hardihood and daring and became ex})erl in Ijattling with the floes. The people oi .^Conception Bay led the way in this new enterprise, and Car- bonear, Harlior (irace, Bay Roberts, Cupioorest retuiii on ri'cord.- The cause an as, not the sc:ircity of senls Imt the unfavourable" condition of the ici' which \\"as A"ei y hea\y, and jammed togetlu'r' in huge massi's which nevei- ojiened. In 1894, it is eslimaled that the united catch of all the steamers (22 in number) will not exceed 142,000 .seals ; but the strong easterly winds which "[lacked the ice on the .shores and tilled nj) the liays, brought the young seals within reach of the people on shoiv who took about 120,000. Su(di are the uui'ertainties attending this jiei'ilous industry, ■which is dei>endent on the winds and wa\es ami the movements . id' the great ice-tields, annd which ihe young seals are born and nin-tured, ami Avhere they must be sought. There can be no doubt, however, that the intioduction of steamers has, at least I'or the present, been injurious to the interests of the ]ioor seal* liuuters. As in. all similar cases, the introiluctiou of machinery' tends to eliminate man. The work is done by far i'ewei- h;uids,- and those who are thus thrown idle have to seek i'or emjiloy- ment elsewhere, and, in too many cases, can at first find none. The gathering in of the seal harvest is now done wilh less than half the nundier of hands emjiloyed in the days of .sailing ve>;- i+el.?, and every year large nuinliers are unable to oV)tain berth? Tin: KISIIKRIES. I."."/ on lioanl tlie ft^'aiiu-i^, wlm^i- uiiilcil cie\v.- do ikiI cxrcL-il 'i,C>0(). The (•()>t of titting out a ■^caliiiL; >leamev is \a-i-y giral, aii'l il may In- iliiiilitcil wIh'Iir-i', ouc Vi-ar willi anollu'!-, tin- caiiitalist- fiini it a very jnofitalilc iii\ e-.-tiiuiil. The pi-izi^s, liowt-viT, aio .- industry and the old sailing- vessels re-iiitrodiu;eil. As well look for the abolition of railways and the restoration of stage coaches. Men and affairs will adju.-t themselves, in dui- time, to the change ; but a certain amount of sittfering, in the tran>iti(in >tage, is inevitable, as in all similar revolutions in estaldi-ln-il indu>trie>. THE Fl'Tl ICi: OF THK SKAI. FISHKItY. Tlu-i'e is no reason why the seal tishery slamld not long con- tinue to lie a source ol wealtli tn the country. Wise restrictinns have ln'cn, by legislative enactment, recently jilaced on tlie pro- secution of this indu-try. Formerly every one '"did what was- right in his own eyes."' The [)ursait of the old breeding seals was followed up, after a heavy draft had been made on tin- young, in the earlier part of the season, and thousands on thou- sands of these mature seals, on which the maintenance of the species depended, wia-e ruthlessly slaughtered. This, in the end, would have exterminated the seal. Steamers are now j^rohibiteil from making second trii)s, and no seals are to be killed after April 20th. This Avill, to a large extent, prevent the destruction of oLl seals ; furthei', no .-teamer is allowed to leave ]iort for the seal tishery till March litli, and no seals can be killed till IMarch 14th. This prevents the taking of seals that aie immature. These regulations, which arc rigidly enforced, will tend to the conservation of this industry, the value of which to the colony may be estimated at half a million to three-quarters of a million dollars. Its value is enhanced by the consideration that it can be jirosecuted at a time when othei' northern countries are locked 154 'I'lIK FlSHERIE^l. ill icy fetti'i-s auil tlicir ])eople idle. Al)()ut tlie iniildle of Mairli the haidy Newluunillainl seal lumtei-s da^li out into the eiasliiiig ice-Hoes, aud in a c.)niile of iiioiitlis the work is done, and a ndllion dollar.- I'.-aliscd. It intertV-res with no other indnstry, .and the men who take jurt in it can follow up the summer lishery or engage in the cultivation of the soil. Formerly the aveiage annual value of this tislu-ry was over a million dollars, lint the }iric'_- of seal oil has seiionsly declined. HOW SKALS AKK TAKKN. The young seals are born on the ice which the Arctic current carries i)ast the.se shores, fiom the 15th to the 20th of February ; and as they grow lapidly and yield a much tiner quality of oil than the old ones, the (object of the hunters is to reach them in their babyhood, while \ et fed by their mothers' milk, and Avheii they are powerle.ss to escape. So rapidly do they grow that by the IGth of Mari'h tliey ai-e in the best condition to be taken. By the 1st of April they begin to take to the water and can no longer be easily captureil. Sumewhere amid these \ast iey wildeines.ses the seals nuv'^t be .-(Uight. When the x'es.sel reaches an icefield Avhere the seals are visilile, the men eagerly bound on the ice nnd the work of destruction begins. A blow on the nose kills the young seal. Instantly the " sctdping knife ' of the hunter is at work and the skin, with the fat adhering, is detached from the caicass, which is left on the ice : the pelts are dragged over the ice to the vessel whieh conveys them to pnit. The fat and .skins are then separatelioic ncliK led) ( 'stiniiited . 262,885 The following figures show the Seal Fishery since 1885 ; oil and 1885 . 1886 , 1887 . value of tlie products of the kins heing included : — . .S-558,863 . 529,766 . 458,853 156 THE FISHKItlES. 1888 .-)73,984 1889 075,38 1 1890 r.55,031 1891 779,438 1892 865,784 Total ill eight .wars ..S'4,997,]Ui SALMON riSHKKY. Tile ox])i)it of pfe8er\'eil salmon iVoiii XcwrouiuUaiiil does not. constitute a large or important item, seldom reaching in \'aliu' ^^100,000 per annum. It is either jiiekled or put in hermeti- •cally sealed tins. The (piality of the salmon is excellent. Ic is taken for the mo-t pai4 in nets in tlie co\i-s, liays and at ihe mouths of the rivers. Tlie season fi>r taking it is lu'ief, not ex- ceeding six or si'Vi'ii weeks, c(_immencing g(Mi(_'ral]y in the end of May. It is often s(j plentiful in St. John's during this hrief sea- son, that it scdls for five or six cents jier ])oun(l, wliile at the same time it is selling in Loudon and New York for one shilling and sixpence and two shilling steiding ]ier pound. SALMON RIVKKS ItriXKD. There are naturally no finer salmon rivers than those of Xew- founclland. Hnw comes it then that thi- Minrre of \vealtli is so imperfectly turned to account ? Why are ihe eountless luooks and streams around two thousand miles of coast of so little value as salmon rivers ? The answer is, that the proper ])reser- vation of the salmon streams has heeii, for generations, neglected, and human ignorance and the greed of immediate gain have ■wasted and partially destroyed what at this niiniient might he one of the valuahle resources of tlie country. "Barring" the rivers and brooks with nets at the time when tlie fish are ascend- ing to spawn ; constructing weirs, livips and dams ; sweejiing the pools in the rivers with .seine nets, and uight-spearing, have heeu carried on f(jr long periods liy ignoiant and reckless jiersons, till at jiresent, in many rivers, the salmnii are almost exterminated, and in others only grilse of four or live pounds weight are fouml. THE FISHERIES. 157 KIVKK AVAKDENS APPOINTED. Four or live ycar.s ago tlie Fisheries' Commission, on its aji- |)ointment, t(K)k the matter np and phiced the principal rivers umler wardens diarged witli the stringent enforcement of the ruh's ami re-ulalions of tliis tislierv. Tlie I'esult is that the i-ivi'r> liavi" linii clran-d ,<[ tlie old "liarring" obstructions; j(ollutii)n> iif ilu' >treaui> from saw-dust is prevented, and already .a marked imjirovement is reported. Tlie salnnm are returning to their olil haunts, and in a few years satisfactory ])rogress will he made in tin- it-storatiou of the salmon riviis and a vast in- .creasc in the ipiantity of salmon taken may he anticipated. The hest saliunu tislu'ries at present aic in Bouavista Bay, .Gander and Kxploits Bays, and on the west coast. THE HEKKIXG FISHERY. Till' helling tisheiy of Xewfoinidland ha> hei-n sadly neglected. Had it hccu jirosecuted with skill and energy — had care been lH->to\\cd on the cure and packing and had it been placed, years ,ago, uiidci- projier ifgulati(jii>, it niiglit to-day have approached the eod-lislii'iv in xahie. AA'ith Jue care it may still do so. The chief scats oi' the heiiing fishery are Fortune, Placentia, ,St. (ieorgc's and Bay of Islands, Avliile on the whole coast of Laljiudor till- tiiust iR-riiugs are taken. During the last few years the Lalirador lieiring fishery has been unremunerati\-e. Fortune Bay is the centre of a productive winter herring tish- .ery, eomiiiciicing generally aljoiit the first ^\eek in December. St. (ileurge's is a spring herring fishery, a small quantity being also taken in August and Sej^tend^ier. The Bay of Islands fi.shery is the nu)st \aluable next to Labrador, but in recent years it has proved a failure. The fish there are the Bank or Labrador her- ring, and of the finest quality. Bonne Bay herrings are equally good. The value of the herrings exi)orted in 1891 was .S'lRi'^,905. EFFECTS OF NEGEIGEXCE, The effect of negligence and ignorance in connection with this fishery has been that the Xewfoundland herrings have lost char- .acter' in foreign markets and ilcpreciateil in value. Tlie cure 158 THE fisheries;. was slovenly and they were shipped in liadly constructed LaiTels.- Natnrally, they compare favourably with the herrings of any other country, and they ajipear in inexlianstihle quantities. The" Department of Fisheries is now taking active measures for re- medying past negligences and putting an end to reckless methods-' of carrying on this industry. Tliey are ditl'using information as to the proper method of cure and packing ; and enforcing rules for its proper prosecution. A great change for the better has- commenced. rOISSTKR FISHKRY. The loljster fishery i> comparatively of recent origin, the' packing for export or tinning of these valualile crustaceans^ having commenced in 1873. The following figures show how this industiy has advancef? .'-ince that date : — EXPORT OF LOBSTERS. Year. Ll.s. 1874 25,814 1875 .... 144,723 1876 290,208 1879 1,168,808 1880 1,124,580' 1881 1,299,812 1882 1,265,224 1883 862,528 1884 531,226- 1885 824,064 1886 1,454,912" 1887 2,097,092 1888 3,360,672 1889 3,658,368 1880 3,338,512' 1891 .... 2,749,968 1892 . 1,560,288- 1893 (estimated) . 1,950,360' THE FisirEKiKs. 159 ' According to tlic Cen.su.s of 1891 tluic wcie thou 340 lobster factories ; L-iiiployiiig 4,807 persons. The Report of tlie Department of Fi>heries for 1893 states that licenses were issue(l to 284 packers operating loljster factories be- tween Cape St. John and Cajje Ray. Their return.s .showed that the total lobster traps employed amounted to 87,720 ; the num- ber of tishermeu employed being 1,448 ; 113 smackmen ; 603 shorehands (males), and 756 females ; and tiiat tliey caught 5,054,462 lobsters, from which number 26,214 cases of lobsters (each case containing 48 one-iiound tin>) were ])acked. These returns apply only to the licensed lobstt-r factories ; there were besides a considerable number of unlicensed factories such as those on the French Shore. The weather of 1893 was, in many localities, very unfavourable for taking lobsters. The folhjwing figures show the value of the exports of lobsters in the years named : — Years. Value. 1888 .$-385,077 1889 472,524 1890 520,078 1891 429,681 1892 260,048 Total value of lobster exports in 5 years §'2,067,408 THE DEPARTIVIENT OF FISHERIES. Reference has already been made to the " Fisheries Commis- sion," now named the " De]>artment of Fisheries." Without a fuller account of its objects ami methtxls of working, the descrip- tion of the fi.sheries would be incomplete ; as it may fairly be regarded as the most important organization connected with the.se industries. XEGI^ECTEI> FISHKKIES. It is curious to find that in Newfoundland, one of the greatest fishing countries in the woihl, hardly any attention was given to the supervision and regulation of the tiNheries on which the great 160 THE FISHERIES mass of its people avoiv (.Icpuudent for tlicir breail, until about five years ago. In point of fact, these industries were left to take eare of themselves. There was a popular ludief (hat the fisheries were inexhaustible ; that all which man cduld take from the waters would make in) imjiri'ssiim on their swai-ming h>h-life, 'lieries. Fish were considereil to be too pr-olific to permit the supposition that tlieii- luimber could l.te ]icrce]»tilily diminished by human means. COD FISHKIJIKS DKtXIXINti. These proved to be the dreams of ignorance which tlie stern logic of events af length dissipated. Fisheries began to fail, .especially around the shore. Sevcal of ihe large bays, where cod were once abundant, such as ('once]ition Bay, no longer yiehled enough ti>h to rejtay the toils of the tishermen or give tlu'in bread : and they wei-e e engaged in tishing had douliled, am! i)u- pi'oved implements oi all kinds had Ijeen inlioduced ; and still no more fish was taken than foruierly. HOX. A. AV. H.VKVKVS G001> AVOKK, These alarming facts began to im]>ress the unuds of thoughtful men, and to suggest the nei'essity of taking iTompl and eiieigetic measures to meettlu^ evil and to protect and ii'>tore the li.-heries. In this connection it is but just to reler to the able and praise worthy lal)oui-s of the Hon. A. W. Harvey, a meiulter of the Legislative ('ouucil. He had made an intt'Iligeut study of the tisheries, and becauie profoundly iui|ire»ed with the dangers which beset these intlu>tries, from the causes ali'cady referi'cd to, and with the neces-ity for eneigetii- action, iu his place in the <'ouncil he had for inauy years kept the luatter ludbi'e that body ami tlie general public. In able and e.\hausti\e speeches, he tup: FISIIEHIES. 161 ;ii;;iiii ;in(l aL;aiii iirgvil du llu' ( lovL-i-niiK'nt the vital importance -of securiii<;- a tliordugh iuvi'stii^-atiou of tlie tislien-ies:, and of estab- lisliiiig a Bui-cau for llicii' siiiiiTvision. He ])ointed ont that Avhilu all other tishiui^- countries had found it necessary to or- ganize departments for tlie collection of information regarding lish and fisheries, with a \-ie\v to their conservation and super- vision Ijy wise legal enactments, we were in utter ignorance of till- pidjii'r means fur jnoterliiig them and turning them to a mure ]iruhtahh' ariount ; wliile we had no scientitic knowledge whicli wmdil lUaMi' u.- to a'^i-ci1aiu the causes of their decline anil a[)[)ly the pi(i]KT remedies. He advocated strongly the .artificial ])rn])agation of tisli for restocking exhausted salt-water area- and i-i\ci'-. Tuo iiiucli ])raise cannot be accorded this gen- tleman fur ilie cai-uestuess and aliilily with which he urged these views on the Lcgislaliire and the countiy. In due time his l;il)ours l)rought forth fruit, ami he took an active part in the jH-actical application of his views. The aulhoi- of tlii> volume may be jiermitted, without incur- ring tlic (■liar,L;e of egotism, to say that he had long taken an interest in matters bearing on the ti.dieries, and that he had wrtten extensively in sup])ort of the same views, having given riS.SIOX APrOIXTKD. At leiigtl:, ill b^«8, the Legislature sanctioned the nomination n their o[)era-- tions. SUPKRIN'TKXDKNT OF FISHKltlES. Tile first step taken by the Commission was the ai)pointment of a properly qualified Superintendent of Fisheries. They were fortunate enough to secure tlie services of Mr. Adolph Nielsen, Assistant Inspector of Norwegian Fisheries, a gentleman of higli character, who possessed a thorough scientific and practical know- ledge of fish and fisheries, and was fiimiliar with the whole i^ro-- cess of the artificial projiagation of fish. Since his arrival in Newfoundland, he has devoted himself to the arduous duties of his office M'ith a zeal, energy and ability wliieh merit the highest commendation, and Avhich have won the entire confidence of the Commission, and of those most deeply interested in the fisheries/ His tact, good sense and kindness have done much to overcome the i^rejudices of the fishermen which they nnt unnaturally en- tertained towards new ideas and methods wliith threatened tc upset their time-honoured traditions. They are now beginning to regard him as their Ijeiiefactor. Mr. Neilsen became, of course, the right arm of the Commission ; and the great value of his services is now universally admitted, ffe devoted himself to a thorough investigation of all departments of our fisheries, with the view of ascertaining the causes of their decline, where such had taken place, and applying the proper correctives. He also- devoted much attention to the im]ierfect niethoils of cure and packing which were too often practised, iiointing out and urging' improvements. He divw up a jtaper on "The Cure of Codfish and Herrings," which the Commission imblished and circulated Avidely among the fishermen. Its value may In- judged of fron> TIIR FISIIKIME^;. 16o -tlio I'iict tli-it tlio Irisli Depai'tiiHMit of Fislieries askt-d and oli- taiiiL' 1 permission to rf-])rint it, for the ini'orniation of llie. Irish tislii-rnien ; ami that tlie' French at St. Pit'i-rc' liave tran>hitc iletails of the work IISSI0N HA.S DONE. What are the result- of the lahoui-s of the ("oniniissinn which lias now l)een in o]icration for live years;' It would he impos- sil)lH, ill a work >uch a- this, to ih) more than indicate very biieHy what has Ijeeii accomplished. Fii-st of all, it has been the aim of .the Conimission, as their in\e,-tigations ])i-oceeded and accurate infoi'iuation accumulateil, to diaw u\> a code of rules and regu- lations Avhicli would cDii-erve and improve the fisheries, and jireveiit injurious and destructive methods of fishing, and to make due pro\-ision for the enforcement of such regulations. This was a task of great ditticulty and re(piii-ing much cand'ul .consideration. Though not yer completed, and though the rules still rei[uire amendments, it- may be safely attirmed that already the fisheries of Xewloundland are as well regulated as tho.se of .any other country. The tishermeii are gradually learning that these rules are devise^l for their l)eneht, ami that of future gene- rations ; and are increasingly giving them a willing obedience. Wardens are appointed whose duty it is to enforce these rule.s .and to bring offenders to justice. AKTinCIAL PKOPAGATION Of COD AND LOBSTERS. The Commissiim, however, ililc to (iiuntfriiri tlic 1.HV11I- (if heavy drafts, by brei'ding salt-water a> wi-ll a- frr.-li-\vati'r H>lies,. on a lar^'e scale, then a nio.-t inqioitant voik i- d(nic, tin- \aliie oi which it would be ditlicidt to o\cr-e-tiiiiate. Tlini sca-fana- ing lieconies a science, and tin- >tock of (■(umiiei'cial tishcs may be incivasc'd indefinitely with as or^at cerlaiuty as cattle and sheep can be increased on land. Pisciculture pmiuisesto accom- plish this ; and in Xewfoumlland, tiie ureal cxjieriment, on a gigantic scale, is pi'oceeding. Other ti.-hiiig cnuntries are en- gaged in the same ex}n'riments ; but in some res]>ects, this country has taken the lead and maintains a .supremacy. 1)II.1>0 HATCHKKY. The first ste]i taken in the new dep;uturc was the erection of a Cod Hatchery at Dildo Island in Trinity ISay, in which also the artificial ])ropagation of loli.-ter.- was carried on. 'idiis eslabli.-h- ment was titted up by ^Ii'. Xi(dsL-n with all moilern inipio\-emeiits and nothing was h'ft undone to secure succi->s. ,Man\" ilitficulties were encountered, and many ob-tides overcome. The following figures show the nundjer of cod ova hatched at Dildo and planted in the waters of Trinity Bay, during the four years in which the hatchery has been in opei-ation : — Years. No. ol'coillisli liatclieil. 1890 ]7,000,UU() 1891 39,550,000 1892 105,254,000 1893 201,-135,000 Total j.lauted . . 423,439,000 The following figures show the nnnd)er of lobsters hatched in the same establishment during five years : — Years. Lobster o\'a liatcliud. 1889 . . • . . . 4,039,000 1890 15,070,800 1891 10,274,200 1892 2.500,000 1893 h095,00a Total .... 32,889,000 ■[•]]]■: FISIIKKIKS. 1()5" rKOATl.\'<; I\< I'BATOItS. It is, lio\vc\rr, ill liatcliiii^- lolisttTs liy lucaiis of Hnatiiiy incu- bator.-', wiiii'li were iiivfiiti'uci'C's.s has lifcu acliievcil. ''Jliis wdinlfi-riil imciitidii., w liirli is ^iiu])k-, iiii-x])i'iisivc', ami easily wni-kcil, lias |ilacf(l Xewf'uinu!- laiid far alicail <>[ all oIIkt rmiiitrics in the artiticial ]iropagatii>n of tlii'sc \alualiK' cruslaceaiis wliicli an' cv crywiu-n- l)C'C()niing scarcer, year after year, and in some lnUster-produring countries are tlireateiied wirli t-xtinctimi. Fnr fmir years Xeilsen's floating inculiutor> liave lieeii workeil under the Fisheries ' 'oniniis^idii, in nearly all the large bays nf the island. The l()!h>\ving lalde shows the i-esults : — Years. Xo. of lol)sters liati-lieil and plautei,], 18!J0 390,934,000 1991 541,19.j,000 189:i 427,28:),00O 1883 517,303,000 Total . . 1,886,767,000 S.VVINfi OF THK I.OBSTKK OVA. It is to he oh.-erved that this enoi'iiioiTs nuinlier of hih.-ters ■\vere hatehed from ova collected at the varions lofister factoiies where they M'onld otherwise have hcen (h'stroyed. The precious life-germs are saveil, placed in the incubators, brought to life, and after a time liberated in the waters. The invention is of immense value not only to Xewfonndland but to every country vliere lobsters are found. To this colony it will be wrnih many millions of dollars. EESLLTS. Time is re([nired to thoroughly test and deleimine the value of cod and lobster jifoiwigation, as the young cod re<[uiies three or four years to come to maturity ; and the lobster from five to seven years. It may lie mentioneil, howeverj that in Trinity Bay large shoals of small codfish and fry have been seen bv the fish- ermen in ])laces where they were never seen before and in siich abundance that they must be the prf)duce pf the hatchery. "166 THE FISHERIES. Similarly, vast mimlicrs of small lobsters, Irnm \\\i) to fiw inches in length, ]ia\e ln-i-n i)l)serve(l in the iieighliDiirliooil of the hatching incul)at()rs, ;up1 evidently the results of tlieir ojiera- tions. These are hupcful signs in regard to tlie ultimate success of these important e.\[ieriments. ClTllK OF HKKKIXGS. It may l)e nienlidueil ihat the C-ommissidn (h'Mileil much at- tention to the imjirovcment nf the cure of heiriugs, as the article sent to foreign mai'kels had deteriorated in i|ualily and in many cases ceases to bring I'emunerative prices. Cuih'r ^Mr. Neilsen's supervision, a few hundred barrels Avere cuicd and packed ac- cording to his own method, and then shijiped l)otli td European and American markets. In every instance they brought \'ery satisfactory prices, gieatly in advance of tliosc foijueily obtained, thus demonstrating what rare and skill can do in culiancing the value of this industi-y. He also erected a smoke-house in Pla- centia Bay, and turned out kippered, bloaters, and snu^ked herrings of the tint'>1 (juality which liroughl excidh'nt jinces. The impnlse thus gi\-eu to tlie jierring industi-y will gi-eatly enhance its value. THK rUEKZIXG BARKEL. One other impoi-taut imjn-ovement introduiHMl liy Mi'. Neil.sen may be mentioned. (^)uite recently he exhibited a freezing bar- rel to a number (if our ti-lietmen and "planters'" in St. John's,. Harbour Grace and ('aibouear, designed for tlie freezing ami preservation of bait in tlic ]iro.secution of the cod lisliery. One of the greatest ditliiulties ihr fisherman has to cncnunter is the ■\\ant of Ijait. At limes it is jilentiful, and at other times the bait fishe.s, such as herrings, caplin and stpiids, disappear and the tisherman is idle a-liore from tlie want of bail. The codfi.sh are plentiful in the wati'r,-. lait there is no bait. It often happi.'ns that a third of tin; lishing season is lost in tliis way. If then when bait are plentiful they could be frozen and preserved for times of scarcity, it is (•\idcnt lliat the .season's catch would le greatly increa.sed. Tlie IVce/iug barrel accomplishes this object THE FISHEPJES. 167 ■luo.st etFectually. It is ho siuipK; tliat any iislicnnaii, liaviiig seen it in operation, can easily tit u]) one for liis own use. All that is needed is an ovdinai-y Ueriin.g or })ovk liai-rei, some ice clioppecl small and coarst' salt. Four -wooilcn flanges an- plaeed insidi' the barrel, in an oliliqne direction, so as to nii.x and rotate the articles to he frozen witli the ice and salt, when the barrel is jiut in mo- tion. Tlie ban-el is half filled with alternate layers of ice and salt, the pro]ioi-tions being three parts of ice to one of salt. Theji the other half of the Ijarrel is tilled "with fresh herrings or any other bait tlshcs ; the head is fastened tightly and the barrel is placed on its side and rolled back and forward,, at a certain S2ieed, for aljont iifteen nunutes. When the he;id is removed the tisli are found to be frozen as hard as a block of wood. They are then placeil in sawdust or dry mould and can be preserved for a month or longei-, and used when reipiired. The fisherman need never be without bait and the cost is trilling. The inven- tion is a most valuable one, and will, when generally used, greatly increase the annual catch of codhsh. Those who wit- nessed it in o])eration were much grattiicd and pronounced it a complete success. Of course this liari'el can lie used for freez- ing any animal substance, such as meals, poulty, game, etc. On an enlarged scale it could be apjdied to the preservation of ireslx fish for use or exi)ortation. REFRIGERATORS. In addition to the freezing liarrel, MV. Xielsen, last year, erected at Burin and Pres(|ue two refrigerating houses for freez- ing bait on a large scale, and preserving it in this condition for the use of the fishermen. In the freezing chamber twenty-four degrees of frost are obtained, which is sufiicient for freezing any kind of bait. Complete success was reached, the "bait being i'rozen as hard almost as rock, and can be kept for any length of time. These are intended as model refrigerating houses, which capitalists engaged in the fisheries may re-proditce all round the coast and at each of the large fishing centres. With these and the freezing 1 larrel, when both are brought into general use, the 1G8 THE FISIIEKIES. poorest fisherman need neA^er be without bait. Herein '^^•e hays' another illustration of what science can do for the improvement of the fisheries. When, in addition to these inventions, we take into account the possible developments of pisciculture Ave see that ac^uaculture may yet become only second to agriculture in increasing the supplies of human food. Since the foregoing was Avritten regarding the hatching of cod- fish, the following appeared, under date June 19th, 1894, in the daily newspapers of St. John's, and greatly strengthens the hope of a successful issue in this new departure : — ♦'MII.I.IONS OF CODFISH— GKEAT SUCCESS OF COD HATCHING AT DILDO. " The grand experiment of re-stocking the Avaters of Trinity Bay by the artificial propagation of codfish, Avhich has been going on for four years, has resulted in a magnificent success. All doubts and fears are at length dissii:iated, and cavillers may noAA' hide their diminished heads. The ncAvs from Dildo is of the most gratifying description. Codfish, one, two and three years old, are in immense numbers ; and older fish are visible among them. Yesterday morning the Avater Avas A^ery calm, and the fishermen could see [them at the bottom in a solid, thick mass all around and outside the island. The oldest fishermen declare tliey never, in all their lives, saAV so nuich fish in the bay. One man, named John Pretty, had his cod-trap at Dildo . Island. He overhauls]^it three times a day, and brings in a skiff- load every ^time, in addition to AA'liat the hatchery takes from him of spaAvning fish. He says he could haul it every hour and have just as much fish in it every time. Mr. Nielsen has been only tAVO days at Avork and already he has four hundred and fifty fine spaAvning fish in the pond, Avith every prospect of soon gett- ing enough fish to fill every available space in the hatchery Avith ova. It may^be imagined Avith Avhat delight he finds his toils and anxieties so nobly reAvarded. What has been done in Trinity Bay can be done in^^CA'ery bay in the island. The depleted Avatcrs can be restored to their former abundance, and, as in the "good TIFK FISHEUIE.S. 169' old times," the tislu-nai'ii will In- able to load theii' lioats within sight of their own dooi>. Ihe long, every liay will have one or two cod hatcherie.s in operation. Lobster hatching is e(|ually successful. The freezing barrel, which Mr. Nielsen lately ex- hibited, if generally introduced, will be worth millions to the country. No fisherman need ever be without bait." Later accounts ,sa\' the hshernien of the place are delighted ■with the success, and declare they can catch as much fish as they like. Mr. Nielsen has 2,000 spawners in his pond and can fill every available space in the hatchery ■with ova. He hojjes tO' plant three hundred millions this year. CHAPTER VIII. INTERNATIONAL TREATIES. THE TRENCH SHOKE (QUESTION. It does not full williin llic' scope oC a Handbook to discuss at ixny great length the " ne\'er-ending, still beginning" " French Shore Qnestion."' Only a few of the salient points connected with it can Ije referred to viM'y brietly. It has been so long and so often debated that the subject is worn thread-bare. TREATY RIGHTS OF THE FRENCH. Among Great Britain's forty (polonies the position of Xew- foundland is in one respect uniipie. The sovereignty of the •entire teriitory belongs exclusively to Britain ; Init the French, since the year 1713, have had the right of fishing along more than half the entire shores of the island, and of using that por- tion of the coasts for such pur[)Oscs as may be necessary in the prosecntion of their fishery. In addition to this important privilege, the French have hail ceded to theui possession of the two small islands of St. Pierre and ^liipielon, at the entrance of Fortune Bay, " as a shelter for their fishermen," the only condi- tion attached to the possession of them being that no fortifications- should be erected, and only such buildings as are necessary iu carrying on the fishery. The line of coast to which these treaty lights apply extends froui Cape Ray, at the soutli-A\'estern ex- tremity of the island, around the western, northern and north- eastern shores, as far south as Cape St. John, being fully half the entire coast of the island, and that by far the most fertile and valuable portion. The French have no right to occupy i)er- manently or settle any portion (if this shore, or to erect any buildings except such huts and scafiblds as may be necessary for curing and drying their fish. Their fishermen are not allowed to M'inter in the island. INTERXATTOXAL TREATIES. 171 TREATIES NOW ANTIQUATED. At the time wlieu the French ol'tained tliese treaty priviU-ges,. the population of the whole island ^vas very small, and but few British subjects had settled on this portion of the- coast. It was also believed then that this section of the country was worthless, as far as its soil was concerned, and that it contained nothing valualile. These notions jiroved to be unfounded. As years rolled on it was found that this half of the island, with a co;i>l- line of 790 miles, contained large tracts of fertile land, valuable forests, coal beds and rich mineral deposits. The climate (.if the western coast is also superior to that of the eastern and southern, being free from fogs and the influence of the Arctic Current, so that it is much more favourable for colonization. Circximstances have entirely altered since these ancient treaties were made, and they are no longer applicalile to the condition of the colony. Their abrogation or moditicition is ui'gently needed. TREATY OF UTRECHT. These concessions were first made to tlie French by the Treaty of Utrecht, in the year 1713. It stipulated that " The Island of Newfoundland, Avith the adjacent islands, shordd lielong of right wholly to Great Britain ;" that it shall be allowed to the subjects of France "to catcli fish and dry them on land on that part only of the coast" defined in the treaty; and that "it shall not be lawful for the subjects of France to fortify any jilace in tlie said island of Xewfoundland, or to erect any Ituildings there l)esides stages made of boards, and huts necessary and usual for drying of fish, 01' to resort to the saitl island beyoneople to \\hom the soil of the island belonged. EXTRAVAGANT CI.AIM8. This was not all. The French ]iot only claimed and tried to- enforce an exclusive right to the fishery, but they 2:)referred more extravagant claims to pievent tlie inliabitants of Xewfonndland from occupying the land witliin tlie limits defined liy the trea- ties, whether for agi'icultural, mining or other purposes, thns virtually exercising sovereignty over half the island. It is true they did not jDretend to occupy the land themselves, except for fishery purposes ; but they pursueil only too successfully the " dog in the manger" jJolicy, of jireventing anyone else from doing so. They preferred this claim on the ground that the occu})ation of the land by tlie people of the island would be an infringement of their fishery privileges. Here again the Imjje- rial authorities inflicted a cruel wrong upon the colony by tem- porizing with these unfounded claims, and refusing for a long time to permit the local government to issue land grants in the disputed district, while at the same time they repudiated the French claims and declared the sovereignty of the territory to be vested solely in England. BRITISH SKTTLERS INCREASE. Meantime, however, in spite of all dilhcultius and discourage- ments a numerous population settled on this shore. Tliey now number nearly 12,000 people. Their condition was for a long period very miserable. They were in the position of squatters, having no title to their property ; were living without the guardianship of law ; hail no roads, scliools, magistrates to pun- ish crimes, or any of the ordinary appliances of civilization^ They became increasingly a source of anxiety to the local govern- ment. At length, in 1881, the representations and remonstrances of the local legislature were listened to ; the local government Avas emj^owered to make grants of land ; but these were made IXTEKXATIOXAL TREATIE.S. 175 subject to the treaty rights of the Freiu'li ; magistrates were ap- pointed ; custom liouses erected, and provision made ibr the representation of tlie residents, \vlio were to send two memljers to the Ljcal parliament. This was a consideraljle step in advance. Law and order were e.-^tahlished ; tlie reijiou became an integral part of Newfoundhind ; and the Government was empowered to exercise territorial jurisdiction over tlie whole, subject of course to existing treaty riglits. The boon should liave been giauled fifty years before. PERILS OF THK SITIATIOX. The vexed question, however, of concurrent or exclusive fishing rights remains, and is as far as over from settlement. The French endeavour to enforce their claims to an exclusive fishery as j^^-'i'ti- naciously as ever ; and the peace of the two nations is constantly in i^eril in consequence of these conilicting views regarding the 2)ro visions of the treaties. England, and her subjects in the Colony, maintain that they have a concurrent right to these fisheries, provided they do not " interrupt" the operations of the French fishermen. The Crown lawyers of England have de- clared that there is nothing in the treaties to prevent British subjects from taking fish at any places not actually occupied liy French fishermen, and provided they do not disturb Frenchmen in tlieir bona fide fishing operaticms. VIEAVS OF IJKITISH STATES3IEN. The ablest British statesmen of former times, sucli as Lord Palmerston in his famous despatch of July lOtli, 1838, have re- fused to acknowledge that the treaties convej-ed any exclusive right to the French, and declared that had such been the inten- tion terms far more definite and exact would ha-\e lieen used. In 1886 the French Govej'nment once more put forward their claims to exclusive rights, threatening to coniiscatc tlie gear of any who were founX'LUDEI> IN TREATIES. But the French had to lie reckoned with and they refused tc yiehl an inch on the lobster ([uestion. In Aain did the British diplomatists remonstrate and point out tliat Avhen the treaties were made and gave the French the liberty ot" " taking and dry- ing tish," lobster canning was unknown, and lobsters could not have been included ; that only cod-fisliing could have been in view when " taking and drying tish " was specified, lobsters not being fish, and cainiing a very different process frour "drying ;" that lobster factories are not the "temporary huts and stages" allowed in the treaties, biit permanent buildings which the Frencli wore forbidden to erect. The French still obstinately clung to their claim ; and probalily wearied with their perti- nacity, the British Government offered to sul)mit tlie lobster question to arbitration. This temporizing jjolic}' 2>avcd the way for tJie host of troubles which speedily followed. MODUS TIVENDI. The Frencli accepted arbitration ; and without suljuiitting the matter to the local legislatuie, the British Government arranged Avith the French a modus vivendi pending the results of the arbi- tration. As soon as this was made known popular indignation burst forth afresh. The Legislature in the Session which opened March 6th, 1890, unanimously adojjted resolutions condemning the inodiis vivendi; and mass meetings of the jjeople followed denouncing it in the strongest terms. It was too late, however, the Britisli Government having been committed to the arrange- ment ; so that the ovodits virandi went into 02)eration and tlie naval officers engaged in the protection of the fisheries received instructions to enforce it. MODUS VIVENDI 015JECTI0NABLE. The most objectionable feature in this ?/;o(?«.s rinndi was that it gave formal permission to the French to erect loli>ter iactories IXTEKNATIOXAI. TKKATIKS. 1,0 on certain conditions, tliu.s apparently iuliuilting ilicir claims, and casting a donbt on the cxdiuivr rights of tln^ cuhmists to all the lobsters on the French shore, as to which no donht -whatever existed in the minds of British statesmen and lawyers. This was done, moreovei-, withont the knowledge or consent of the .colonists, and in opjiosition to the jjosition taken previously by the British Government. It had the appearance of conceding to the French certain territorial rights which they never enjoyed before, as lobster factories were permanent establishments. The modm allowed all lobster factories in existence on July 1st, 1889, both French and British, to continue, pending an arbitra- tion, ]jut prohibited all new erections, unless by joint consent of the eommandeis of British and French naval stations. STRANGE DISCOVERY. The unpalatable arrangement, however, had to be enforced by the naval officers o\\ the station. Ere loiig a strange and start- ling discovery was made, namely, that the Act of Parliament .enalding British Governments to enforce these treaties, by orders issued to naval olricers, had expired by virtue of one of its own ])rovisions in the year 1834, and haility, mo- deration and wisdom, set forth the long array of their country's wrongs and grievances, in words Avhich made a deeji inqiression on that great assemblage. The House of Lords was crowded to an extent rarely witnessed before. The appeal of the delegates was listened to with deep sympathetic interest ; and generous applause was given to it by .speakers of both political parties. The pre.ss of England joined in approval of the dignified and judicious position assumed by the delegation. They wisely offered, on behalf of the Legislature by whom they had been accredited, to pass the necessary enactments to enable England to fulfil her treaty obligations. The obnoxious measure before the House was then withdrawn, arrangements were made for ar- riving at an agreement between the British Government and the delegates as to the nature of the enactment which the Colonial Legislature would be asked to sanction for the enforcement of the treaties. In regard to what followed it is only necessary to say that misunderstandings arose. A comjjlete and satisfactory enactment has not yet been passed by the local legislature ; but such an understanding has been reached as has removed manj- difficulties out of the way, and leaves little doubt that a measure will ere long receive the sanction of the Imperial authorities and the local legislature, -which will secure the objects in view. Meantime, the modus vivendi has been continued, by local enact- ment, till the close of 1895. This will give time for further negotiations. HARDSHIPS OF TBEATIES. It is very clear from the foregoing narrative of events, that this " French Shore Question" is about as far as ever from a solution. What the people of XcMfoundland want is to be made masters in their own territory, and to get rid of these French claims. They have no wish to disturb the French in their possession of St. Pierre and Micjuelon, or to interfere with their fishery on the Banks for which these i.«lands furnish a basis. But they keenly feel the injustice of slnitting up half of an island larger than 1S2 IXTEIIXATIOXAL TKEA'I'IKS. Ii'L-land in onk'i- lliat -ix or seven small French tisliing vessels may use it for drying tlieir tish for three months in the year. THK FKKXCH KKFU8K COMPKOMISES. It is necessary, however, to look existing facts in the face. France has again ami again declared, througli the mouth of her foremost statesmen, that she will not accejjt a money compen- sation or even a territorial exchange for lier treaty lights in Xewfoundland. They say no Frencli Govennnent dare propose any such arrangement in face of the i)opular indignation it ■would kindle. The national sentiment will not allow them to listen to such a proposal as giving u[) the last relic of French Empire in the Xew AVurld. The maintenance of the French navy is somehow immovaldy associated in the Gallic mind with the nursery for her seamen which France holds in these waters. It may lie too that her statesmen look ujjon these treaty rights as iift'ording them a fine vantage ground in dealing with England on the Egyptian fj^uestion, or other disputed sulijects. DIFFICULTIES OF SETTLEMENT. Whatever may be the explanation, France will not relax her hold on Newfoundland ; and further, except by going to war, which no one desires and all parties shrink from, England has no power to compel her. The pnblished correspondence between the two Governments shows that English statesmen have spared no efforts to Ijring aliout a settlement of this old dispute favour- able to the colony ; but ha\e laboui'ed in vain. France is im- practicable, and will concede nothing. Both England and the colonists are willing to submit the whole (piestions connected with the treaties to arbitration ; but France will accept arljitra- tion only on the lobster claim. This does not indicate that she has full confidence in the justice of her demands on other points, or in her own interpretation of the treaties. 'W'hli all his diplo- matic skill, Lord Salisbin-v has failed to bring her to reason. He lias been met at all points by a wm pos-'^iiwus. CO-OPEKATION WITH ENGL AND. What is the wisest policy for Xewfoundlami to adopt in the present crisis in her affairs ? The colonist's have amjily vindi- INTERNATIONAL TKEATIES. 1S3 .L'atctl tlicir riglils as t'lveiiu'ii liy iiiakiiiL;' kuoun tlicii' grit-vauces ami wi-DiiL^s, ami tlii-v liavi' won the synqiatliy of England ami the iT'spcct of her leading statesmen of both injlitieal j'lU'ties. 'They may vest assured, tlierefore, that as soon a- opportunity presents itsidf theii- wi-ongs will he righteih But England ean- mjt aeeoni])lish ini])nssil)ilities. She cannot disreganl her treaty .obligations, and sjie has no jiower to (■onipe] France to forego her treaty rights. England is in ]ion(.iin- 1)ound to t-nlorce observance in Xewi'onndland of her treaty engagements, whatever they may l)e. The despatch received from Lord Ripon, Seci'etary of State for the Colonies, in March last, indicates an earnest desire to .adopt conciliatory measures, and to make such conces.sioUH in regard to the provisions of an Act to be submitted to the local Legislature, as will smooth the way i'or it.s acce])tanee. Under such circumstances, it will be evident to most thinking men tliat the duty and interest of the colony lie in co-operation with the Imperial authorities, lioth in sccui-ing a 2)roper nu^asure for the .enfoi'cement of the treaties and also in the settlement of the whole (.juestiou in the future. Tlie jiresent time calls for mode- I'ation, .self-conti'ol, and the exercise of that gooil sense which will look facts in the face calndy, and not indulge in ]iy.-;terical .demands for the immediate alirogation of all Frencli rights, re- ifusing ever\ coni))romise which falls short of this. Xothing can be gained by shrieking for such extreme measures as tearing u[> the treatie'?, and the immeiliate withdrawal of the French. SKLF-EESTKAINT AND PATIKNCK. Whatever may have been the conduct of the Imperial Mother towards the lirst-born of her colonies, in tiie rough da\'s of the past, she has now notlung but the kindest intentions and the most sincere good will. She has every desire to at(_)ne for the harshnesses and negligence of the past, and to help us in our hour of need. We may learn a lesson from the conduct of Ca- nada in dealing with the Beliring Sea trouble. She trusted the Imperial Authorities and coulially co-o]ierated with tlieni, in a .spirit of " sweet reasonableness ;" and tlie result has liecu au 184 IXTEKXATIOXAL TliEATIES. arbitration wliicli secures for Canada all that could l)e fairly ex- pecteil. If the colonists are patient and wise, while firmly hold- ing on to their rights, the day may not be distant when all pre- sent difficulties may admit of an easy solution. >KAV KAII.WAY AS A FACTOK. To the present writer it seems that the new line of railway is- destined to be an important factor in the settlement of the French Shore Question. Once those solitudes are peopleulation — farming, mining, lumbering, manu- facturing, — (ince the smoke of homesteads fills the air anil the whistle of the locomotive is heard amid the " forests primeval," our French iishing friends will find that there is no room for them ; and the last pale ghosts of the old treaties will vanish for' ever. It may l)e found that the great innovator — the raihvay — ^is destined to make Newfoundlanders masters in their oavu house. Before chjsing this chapter it may be well to allude t(j another serious evil inflicted on the colony by the concessions already described. St. Pierre, which at the nearest point is but fifteen miles from the Newfoundland shores, has long been a smuggling centre, very large quantities of wine, brandy, rum, tobacco, tea, sugar, drapery and other goods, are every year smuggled into- the southern and Avestern portion of the island. The reA-enue is is thus defrauded ; the honest traders are jdaced at a disad^'an- tage ; and the worst of all, the jseople are demoralized. So many small vessels are constantly running to St. Pierre, carrying bait for the French Bankers, and bringing back contraband goods,, that it is found to be cpiite impossible to preA'ent smiiggling on a large scale. The evil might be checked by a British Consul re- silient at St. Pierre ; but though asked for, again and again, the Fi-ench steadily refuse to jjermit a consul to exercise his func- tions on their island. Doubtless the French traders find it profit- able to supply the smugglers, and do not Avant to be disturbed. This gi'ievance has long been felt, but no redress has ever been attempted. Taking into account the Avholc effects of these trea- INTERN ATIOXAL TliEATIE.S. 1S5' ties, it is not woikKtIu] lluit llie colonists sliould liii\(/ at times discovered impatience, and always clieiislied an irritaljU' discon- tent with tlieir hard lot. THE WESTMINSTKK REVIEW ON THE SITUATION. Snbjoined are a few extracts from an able article in tlie TP'est- minster Review for April, 1892. The wiiter, Mr. E. R. Spearman, is thoroughly in syniimtliy with Newfoundlanders in their hard struggles : — ^" It behoves Englishmen to make themselves masters of the whole story of tlie Newfoundland difficulty, and to be thus prejjared to deal with it intelligently whenever the crisis comes. To begin with, it must be understood by Englishmen that the great bulk of Frenchmen do not care two straws about Newloundland itself, but do care a great deal about other sore subjects of controversy with England's empire elsewhere, and so seize on any available grievance like Newfoundland to manifest international ill-will whenever tlie Gallic cock desires to give the English lion a prod with 1 lis angry spurs." * * * "Though enough physical mists sTUTound Newfoundland, there is still no real reason why any political mists should envelope it, so far as Englishmen are concerned. Every verse in the great epic of Newfoundland should be fresh in every Englishman's brain, for it is that ejjic which marks his race's march to world-wide em- pire and glories unequalled in the record of mankind." ENGIiAND'S NEGLECT AND CRUELTY. "England is a cruel mother. Most of her colonial children have been born against her will, and she has often tried to strangle them, both before and after bii-th. Though thus be- gotton, they strangely enough have invariably regarded their parent with imcpicuchable love, seeking her favour with rich gifts and valuable seivices, only to be insulted and jilundered. Fostering care of her colonies has never been the rule of the greatest colonizing nation the world has ever seen. On the con- trary, the colonists have generally been such as have tied from England in bitterness of spirit, and the dominant policy of Eng- land has alwaj's been to treat these exiles as a herd of condennied 180 IXTKUXATIOXAL TIJEATIES. .-pirits, who must not lie allowed to esca|ie torture l)y shifting their ([uarters, liut In- harasseil without remorse. Hard as has Ijeeii the lueasure meted to all her eoluuies hy England, to none lias she been a more unnatural paivnt than to the tirst-born, the ■chihl of lier youthful maternity as a liree(ler of otlier common- Avealths from the liosom of her (jwn, and a ehihl, too, who lias paid a tribute for nearly foui- hundred years fai' exceeding 'the Avealtli of Ormu/ or (jf Ind,' — the liarve^t of the sea, more precious to our inland than the dianninds of (.iolconda or the gohl of Peru. TOILKKS OF THK SEA. " Xo English Homer has y,^.t arisen to tell the tale of Xew- foundland, shrouded in mystei-y and romance ; the daring invasion and \icissituiles of those exhaustless tisjieries ; the battle of life in that seething cauldi'on of the North Atlantic — - "the Western Ocean'' as the sailors say witli a shi\-ev and a shrug — where the swelling billows ne\-er rest, liut cross and ■criss-cross in I'oaring rivalries, anil the hurricane only slumbers to bring forth the worse dangers of the fog-bank and the iceberg. Eierce as have been during the four centuries the tight for the fisheries by European rivals, their 2>etty racial (quarrels sink into insignificance before the general struggle for the harvest. The Atlantic I'oar hides all minoi- ju'pings. The bi-eed of iisher-folk from tlu'se deep-sea voyagings 'onsist f)f the toughest specimens •of human endurance. All other dangers whieli lure men to venture everything for excitement, or for fortune, the torrid beat or Arctic cold, the battle against man or l)east, the desert or the jungle, all land adventurers are nothing conijiared to the l'IISERY OF ENGLAND'S NAVY. "Among these heroic children of the sea England's sons have- always been foi'emost. AVe sliDuld exj^ect England to be espe- cially proud of such offspring, familiar witli their struggles, and ever heedful of theii- wellare, lending an ear to their claims or complaints before all other suitors. Strange to say it has always l)een the e.xact reverse. In the great fisheries, England, from her position and the nature of her peojde, has taken the leading part. Thi' fidii'rii-.s . "Bearing these facts in mind, one Avenild expect Englishmen to take a most lively interest in a possession next to Ireland in proximity, larger than Ireland in area, and far exceeding Ireland in potential jjrodnct. Besides the fisheries (which themselves must ever remain Tuiri vailed as a national inheritance, and were the most important gift furnished to Europe by tlie discovery of the New World) Newfoundland also possesses a pei'fect treasure- house of minerals, — almost all the metals, and coal and petro- lenm. In fact there is every reason to ex]iect that the fanu^ of Newfoundland as a mining field wduld be world-wide, were 188 INTERNATIONAL TREATIES. ;atteution given to develoiiing the resources of tlie island ; but everyone hitherto has considered tisliing as the object of their existence ; and England has so treated her colony as to prevent the growth of a pojiulation extensive enougli to attend to all in- dustries ojiened to man in such a favoured ^pot. At the jsresent crisis, one of the chief hardships suffered by the Newfoundland- ers is interference with any attempt at mining oijerations by the French patrols, who have in feet, if not in theory, the power foolishly conceded by England, of ]iractically nobbling all in- dustry for about a thousand miles of coast line. In fact the monstrosity of the French case, in this resjiect, would be ludi- •crous in its audacity were it not so exasperating." * * * ■=x- * * * NEWFOUNDLAND ALAVAY8 BKLONGED TO ENGLAND. ''Degenerate indeed must be the Englislnnen who read the record and fail to claim the absolute supremacy of English rights in Newfoundland in all particulars. For Ije it lemembered that this early possession has been fortifii'(l by uninterrupted occu- pancy " to make assurance doubly sure." Tlie island has been invaded by the French and others in war-time, but never con- qitered; and such invasions give no slired of title in time of peace. The French visitoi'S have been from the first (as all other foreign- ers, even from the start,) merely guests on the shores of New- foundland ; and if they V>ecome obnoxious, England has every right, moral and legal, to refuse them further hospitality." AKKANGEMENT OF 1885. " Tlie French have undoul)ted claims in Newfoundland ; but experience has shown that a continuance of the exercise of these ■claims is impracticable. Tliey should l)e Ijought out in the in- terests of peace." * * -x- * * * * "It is well to understaud tliat tlie Newfoundlanders have always been most patient and reasonable. Ignornant people liave often called the islanders otherwise, Ijecause such i)eople IXTERNATIOXAL TREATIES. 189 never reflect that the XewfouucUanders, being on the spot, have the best means of judging of the merits of tlie disjiute. Thus the Newfoundlanders have been abused by 'inspired' pens and high officials in England for refusing to accept the treaty of 1885, alleged to be so favourable to the island. The true reason for such a rejection Avas this : France had, from time immemorial, had more clever surveyors and negotiators tlian England in those parts. Thus her accomplished French surveyors made a plan vhicli looks delightful on paper to the uninitiated. The English settlers were surrendered parts of the disputed coast ; but, here a bit and there a bit was reserved absolutely to France. Now, these bits happened to include all the good harbours of the coast. All settlement and mining ventures would be impossi- ble. No wonder Newfoundlanders rose in wrath against such a sacrifice."' THE END OF THE MATTER. "Newfoundlanders must be absolutely masters in their own land, and for this hajtpy release they will doul)tless be both willing and able to pay a sufficient price. Way back to Edward VI., an Act of Parliament declared the Newfoundland fisheries an unlicensed i)rivilege of every Englishman. We practically allow the said fisheries to l)e to-day the unlicensed privilege of all mankind. But Newfoundland itself is our own, our eldest born. AVe should deserve to be wiped away from the list of honourable nations if we do not stand by the island in this hour of her distress." TREATY OF UTRECHT. Thirteenth clause of the Treaty of Utrecht (1713) jn-esents in clear and brief terms the whole matters in dispute, and those who wish to understand the French Shore fpiestion should never lose sight of it. This treaty was drawn up in English am.1 French and then translated into Latin, in which language it was signed, so that this version is official and authoritati\-e. Here is a correct translation of the 13th clause from the Latin text : — " The Island called Newfoundland, with the adjacent islands, shall from this time forward Ijelong wholly to Great Britain ; 190 IXTEUXATIOXAf, TREATIES. and to that end the town and fortress of Placentia, and whatever other places in the said island are in the possession of the French,- shall be yielded and given up ■within seven months from the ratifications of this treaty, or sooner if possible, by tlie Most Christian King, his heirs and snccessors, to those who have a commission from the Queen of Great Britain for that purpose. Xor shall the Most Christian King, his heirs or s;;ccessors, or jiny o'f their subjects, at any time hereafter lay claim to any right to- the said island and islands, or any part of it or tliem. Moreover it shall not be lawfid for tlic subjects of France to fortify any place in the said Island of Newfoundland, or to erect any build- ings there besides stages made of boards and huts necessary and usual for drying of fish, or to resort to the said island beyond the time necessary for fishing and drying of fish. But it shall be allowed to the subjects of France to catch fish and to dry thenr on land, on that ^Jai't only wliich stretches from tlie ])lace called Cape Bonavista to the nortliern point of the said island, and thence running down by her western side, reaches as far as the- place called Pointe Riche. But the island called Cape Breton, as also others both in the mouth of the River St. Lawrence, and in the Gulf of the same nanu-, shall hereafter belong of right to the French, and the Most Christian King shall have all manner of liberty to fortify any place or places there."' nSHEKV TREATIES BETWEEN GREAT BRITAIN AND THE UNITED STATES. The treaties between Great Britain and tlu' United States,- bearing on the fisheries in British-American waters — Newfound- land included — have been the subject of lengthened disputes and A-ohrminous diplomatic correspondence, and the difference in opinion regarding their projjer construction has given rise to- mucli irritation and international jealousy. The treaty of 1783, Avhich recognized American Independence, in its third article conferred upon the people of the United States the right to take fish of every kind on the Grand Bank and all the other Banks of Newfoundland ; also in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and on such jiartof the coast of Newfoundland as British fishermen shall use ;■ INTERN ATIOX AT. TREATIKS. 191 but not to ilrv nr cure the same on tlmt island, and al-o en tlir coast, bays and creeks of all ntliev of His Britannie ]Maje>ty'.-^ dominions in Ameiica ; also lilierty to dry and cure fisli in any of the unsettled bays, harbours and ci'eeks of Nova Si'otia, ^big- dalen Islands and Labi'ador, so long as they remain unsettled. CONVENTION OF 1818. The rights guaranteed by this article Avere enjoyed to the Avar" of 1812 Avhich terminated tlie Treaty of 1783. The Treaty of Glient contained no reference to the irsheries, and disputes having arisen between tlie fishermen of the two nations, the Convention of 1818 was agreed on. Its first article provided that "The in- liabitants of the United States shall have for ever, in common with the subjects of His Britannic Majesty, tlie liberty to take." fish of every kind on that part of the southern coast of Xew- foundland, from the said Cixpe Ray to the Ramean Islands ; on the western and northern coasts of Newfoundland, from the said Cajie Ray to the Quirpon Islands, and on the shores of the Mag-' dalen Islands" — also on Labrador; also that, "The American fishermen shall have liberty for ever to dry and cure tisli in any of the unsettled bays, harbours and creeks of the southern part of the coast of Newfoundland here above described, and of the coast of Labrador," such right to terminate when any portions- become settled. Further : the United States in this artic le agreed to "renounce any liberty heretofore enjoyed or claimed by the inhabitants thereof to take, dry or cure tish on or within three marine miles of any of the coasts, bays, creeks or harbours of His Britannic Majesty's dominions in America ;" and Avere only to enter such bays or harliours for shelter, or to olitain wood or water. RECIPKOCITY TREATY, 1854. This convention did not work satisfactorily, and in 1854 a' Reciprocity Treaty was agreed on. By the tei'ius of this agree- ment the entire sea fishery was thrown open to Americans, as' Avell as certain rights to land and cure their fish. The Ameri- cans in turn gave British s\ibjects reciprocal privileges on theiv 192 INTERNATIONAL TREATIES. eastern coasts. This treaty was to continue for twelve years. At the end of that jperiod it was terminated in 1880 at the in- stance of the American Government. In 1871 the Treaty of Washington -was concluded. It dealt with the complications .arising out of the " Alabama Claims," and also with the fishery rights of both nations. It threw oi:)en the fisheries to the Amer- icans in ahnost the precise terms of the Recijirocity Treaty. It was further agreed that commissioners should determine the re- :Spective value of the fishery i:)rivileges mutually granted. When these commissioners met in Haliftix, five and a-half million dol- lars were awarded to the Dominion of Canada and Newfound- land as compensation for the concessions made by them to the Americans, in throwing open to them fisheries of greater value than those conceded by the United States to Britisli fishermen. .Of this sum Newfoundland received one million dollars. Tlie Americans were dissatisfied with the award and the treaty was terminated, at their. instance, in twelve years, ending in 1883. ;Since then the Convention of 1818 has been in force. Several .attempts have been made to establish another Fishery Treaty between the United States and Canada, but without success. Newfoundland endeavoured to make a separate treaty with the United States, and tlie Bond-Blaine CouA-ention Avas the result. Hitherto the British Goveiumeut have failed to sanction this arrangement. CHAPTER IX. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEOPLE— THE CLASSES AND THE MASSES. MERCHANTS AND THE SUPPLYING SYSTEM. We come now to glance at the characteristics and general (^nalities and endowments of the people who have to fight life's lialtle on this sea-girt isle, and l>y whom its destinies must be largely determined. IMPORTANCE OF RACE. There is a great deal in race. Climate, modes of life, general environments, may do much to modify racial characteristics and tendencies, but can never wholly efface them, That a peojjle or an individual should be descended from a sound, good stock, is a matter of vast importance. "Blood" must ever count for much. The people who are doing the A\ork of to-day are the epitome of their respective long lines of ancestry— the summing up of whole generations whose labours and moral and intellec- tual attainments have culminated in tliemselves and made them what they are. "Can tlie Ethi()])ian change his skin or the leo- IDard his spots ?" "We can no moie throw aside our race pecu- liarities and characteristics than we can get clear of our own shadows. The ci-ossing and intermingling of races may go a certain length in effecting changes in the resulting progeny ; but the "Ethiopian" cuticle is ineffaceable and will re-appear in spite of all superficial varnishings. Ancestry is an important factor in shaping the destinies of a peoid:\ A GOOD STCCK. Xow the two hundred tliousand people who at present consti- tute the whole population of Newfoundland — an island much larger than Ireland — are come of a good stock, or rather stocks, 194 CHARACTERISTICS OF THE rEOI'LE. for tlu'V are derived entirely from the Saxon and Celtic races;/ ]Moreover, the blood, in this isolated region, has been kept pure from any undesirable intermixtuies ; and, so far, this filended race has been developed under favourable circumstances. The intei-mingling of Saxon strength, energy, endurance arid capacity for " toiling terribly," with Celtic swiftness, brilliancy, imagina- tiveness and emotional activity, ought to produce a superior race, having the best ipialities of the .-locks fiom which they oiiginated, SAXOX A]NI> CJKLTIC ELEMENTS. Newfoundland enjoys the distinction of being Great Britain's oldest Colony. This was the tirst i)ortiou of the western world on which the Saxon set his foot. It '\\as here that the nation which was destined to discover the Xorth-West Passage and the .sources of the Nile, and to plant American, Indian and Austra- lian Empires tirst raised its Hag in the west and tried its tirst exijeriment in colonization. And the lir.-t colonists who settled here were not men who were forced to "leave their country for' their country's good." Some of them were men born in the "Spacious times of great Elizabeth" — men l)rave, enterprising, true sea-kings who could fearlessly " lay their hands on ocean's mane." Many of them were Devonshire men — the country that produced Sir Walter Raleigh and his half-brother Sir Humphrey Gilbert, and Drake and Hawkins, and many another old English woi'th)'. To these were added, at a later date, some of Ireland's- best blood ; for the men ^\•ho Mere l)rought liere by Sir George Calvert, Viscount Falkland and Sir David Kirke from Ireland, were of the right stamp for colonists ; while tiie Irish emigrants ■who arrived at a later date Avere those wlio sought new homes- beyond the Atlantic, in order to escape from persecution and evil days in their native land. TIius, on the soil of Newfound- land, the tough enduring Saxon and the nidri' lively, versatile Celt have met, in ])roportions not far from equal ; and from tliis wholesome amalgamation of races have sprung the stalwart men and comely matrons and maids whom the travellei' of to-day looks on with admiration. Tlie race has taken kiudlv to the ('HAKACTERISTICS OK TlIK I'EorLE. 197) toil timl UiriMMi. l-Jcareil iu one ol' llie most saliiln-ioiis cliniatt-s ill tlu' wiiiM. liicatliiug an invigorating atniosplifiv, ciigageil largely iu (i]ieii-aii- I'liqiloviiu'iits, — many of them constantly iiattling with the hillows, — a lianly, energetic race ha- growu^ nji, in whom the red corpuscles ol' the lilooil predominate ami who are well titteil for the world's rough work. In the historical sketch the early settler- were dejiicled and the hardships they liad to euconntei', — Hghting cold and hunger in their "tilts,"' battling with the ice-tloes, drawing a scanty subsistence from the stormy dceau, and pursuing their ill-ieiiiunerated lahnurs amid sore discouragements of all kinds, llut in the struggle with ditticulties they gained energy, courage, self-reliance, all that constitutes true manliood ; and they transmitted these as an in- lieritauce to their jiosterity who lia\'e now "entered into their labours," and find their lot cast amid happier surroundings. — They and their fathei's have buti'eted the lullows and drunk in ■the health-giving sea-breezes, and now we find the present gene- ration of Newfoundlanders, in their general physicjue, a ]>ower- fuUy built, loliust and hardy race. The noblest nations of the earth, past and present, were not nurtured amid the flowers of the South, but in tlie cold and stern North, where nature had to be coiKpiered liy sweat of brow, and where the barren wilder- jiess had to be transformed liy hard toil into the fruitful tichl. 3IKNTAL KNDOW>IKXTS. It is (juite true that the intellectual develo[)meut of the people in the past was not cared for as, under happier au.spices, it miglit have been. When men are "living from hand to mouth," ami sti'Uggling for the daily bread, mental jiursuits are imj)ossible ami education is little considered. A great change for the better, liowever, has taken place within the last quarter of a century. The people are learning to appreciate the value and imi)ortance of education, for which State pirovision is now made and in which great imjiroveiuenls have been elfected. Many have now attaineil a position of comfort ami even wealth ; so that leisure is secured for the cultivation of the miml an:l attention to re- 19G cha];actei!Isti('8 of the people. finements in tante and habits of life. AVlieu young Newfound- landers go to other countiies for the jjrofes.sional training not yet attainable at liome, they are able, in many instances, to com- pete successfully with other youths and to win honours at school and college. Indeed, anyone wlio comes into contact with the masses of the people cannot fail to be struck with their mental quickness and general intelligence. Let education do its work and it will be found that here is a people who, when duly cul- tured, will j^lay ]io unwortliy part in the world of the future, and will compete -witli tlie l)rain-^vorkers of the coming age in all departments of lii'e. MOKAt, QUALITIES. It is admitted on all hands that a more moral, ordeily and' law-abiding people cannot be found elsewhere. Serious crime is rare and the proportion of offenders against the law to the whole population is very small. Temperance has made great progress among them, and on the whole they are a sober people. Their kindness and hospitality to strangers who visit the country are proverlnal. A traveller finds himself at once at home in New- foundland whether in the capital or the more distant settlements,, and all vie with eacli other in showing him attention and kind- ness. Quiet, orderly, church-going, attached to their religious faith, the people live j^eaceably among themselves, and outbreaks of l)igotr3' or fanaticism are noAV almost unknown. Kindness to the poor and indigent is a marked feature in the character of the people ; and when through failure of the precarious fisheries, dis- tress occurs, the fishermen help each other to the full extent of their mean^, and often share to the last morsel with those who are more destitute than themselves. Charitable societies for the relief of the poor arc organized in the capital and the chief towns. In no other country is there a more generous liberality shown to sufferers when oveitaken by calamity or misfortune. Sm II. liONNYCASTLE'S OPINION. Sir Richard Bonnycastle, who resided for some time in New- foundland, and knew the country and people well, in his book CHAKACTEItlSTirS OF THE rEOPI.K. 197 entitled " NewfoundliUid in 1842," hears the following testimony to the character of the people : — " I declare, and I am snre I shall be borne out by e\-ery class of people in this country, and l)y all those whose domicile is meiely a transient one, that a more |)eaceable, resjjectable, loyal, or kinder-hearted race than the Newfoundland Englisli and Irish, whether emigrant or native- born, I never met with. All they want, now that temperance has so beneficially operated upon them, is education, agriculture, roads, and the quiet which a firm, decided and imjjartial govern- ment promises to hiiw in store for them." Many similar eulo- gies might? be quoted, did sjjace permit, for all writers agree in admiring and commending the natural (qualities of Newfound- landers. THK Uri'EK CLASSES. There is, of course, no distinction of ranks other than that arising from wealth, education or official or professional position. The U2>per class is composed of the officials of the Government, members of the Legislature, judges, clergy, merchants, doctors, lawyers, and wealthy individuals who have retired from busi- ness. The middle class is composed of the newer merchants, importers, commission agents, shop-keepers, tradesmen, farmers, and that large class who l)y industry and economy liave acquired a modest competence. This middle class, well nameil " the shield of society," is steadily increasing, and is making its in- fluence for good felt extensively. On its growth and jJermanence largely depends the future of the country ; and one of the most hoi:)eful signs of the present time is that its ranks are swelling. The middle class who look to Newfoundland as their home and that of their children, must be regarded as the mainstay of the country. It is among them that the sentiment of jn-ogress has taken deepest root ; and that a strong desire for the development of the resources of the island is most keenly felt. The fishermen and the working classes generally welcome the prospect of new industries for the support of themselves and their children, feel- ing that the fisheries alone are insufficient for their increasing numbers. '^98 CIIAIJAI TKKISTICS OF THK PEOPLE. Tlic capitalists ot" the cuiiutrv are the iin'irliauts, muuerically .a small class, liut \-itally iiii})ortant to the interests of the com- munity and the prosecution of the staple imlustries on which the 1>ulk of the people ilepend for a suhsistence. They collect, ex- ])ort and dispose of the A-arious products of the lisheries ; and import the supplies of all kinds, food, clothing, tishing gear, etc., i-e(|uired hy the tisherinen. Their vessels carry tlie dried fish, .oil, etc., t(j the con-uniing countries, such as Brazil, Spain, Portugal and Italv. They own most of the large steamers which prosecute the seal fishery. Thei'e aie now liut aliout ten .of the' large mercantile tirm< engaged in tlu' exporting husine.s.s, all hut one having their e>tahlishments in St. John's. There are a numl)er of other firms wlio give out supplies to the fi.shermen at the beginning of each season, and take the products of their ;laljour.s in return, hut who .sell the fish thus collected to the large exporting firms. These import their own goods, hut do not gen- .erally engage in the e.xjtort trade. THK C'KKDIT SYSTEM. In the historical sketch, the evils of the long contest between the " merchant-adventurers'" of the olden times ^vho claimed a .mono]»oly of the fi.shei'ies and caia-ied them on from England and the resident tishei'men wlio had settled in the country are de- picted. The latter had nnudi to bear, and were cruelly wronged .and trampled on. The conflict was long and bitter, and it is not Avonderful that the fishermen regarded the merchants as tyrants and oppressors and reckoned them, for generations, as their natural enemies. The antagonism between the two clas.ses was \iolent ; and the nu-mories of what their forefathers sutf'ered lung rankled in the minds of the sturdy settlers. Traditions of the "bad old times" were handed down from generation to generation. The .cidonists at length won the day ami gained their liberties. The migratoiv fishery from England ceased, and all monopolies at length ended. CAPITALISTS NKKDKI). Still capitalists wei-e found to be indisjiensable. The lisheries CIIAKACTERISTICS OF THE PEOPLE. 199 could not Ije ran-icil on witliunt tlu-m. Sliips were needed to carry the fi.'^li to market ; Ijoats, coasting vessels, fishing gear, must he procured. Tlie fishermen wei'C poor and most of them i-e(|uired advances in food and clotliing at the connnencement of each fishing seas(ju. Labour mu.st l)e organized or the fishermen Avould starve. Capital wa.s needed to put the wheels of industry in motion. Thus a new race of merchants sprung up. Many of them were men wlio by their superior energies, skill and perse- verance, rose from the ranks, and accumulated ANealth which they used in the business of the country. Otliers were men who represented business firms in tlie old country and invested their capital in the fisheries. Tlius grew up the " credit " or " supply- ing system" as it was called. The merchants made advances in tlie necessaries of life, and at the close of the fishing season re- reived the products of the fishermen's labours in payment. It is a system frauglit willi many evils ; Init under such circum- i^tances, its growtli and ramifications were iuevitalile. It was injurious to the industries of the 2)eople. Many l)ecame hope- lessly plunged in debt, and men so circumstanced lost heart and hope, and became T,S. The last quarter of a century, however, has witnessed a won- derful change. Not onh has the middle class increased in num- bers and wealth, but the ideas and position of the merchant class have Ijeen entirely altered. jNIore and more they are becoming permanent residents in the country and are looking to it as their home. They are erecting tasteful and costly residences. The present generation of merchants and capitalists are thoroughly convinced of the necessity of turning to account the rich natu- ral resources of the country and opening up new industries for the employment of the people, for whose support the fisheries are insufficient. They are men of intelligence, energy anil pro- gressive views, and jarepared to do their part in advancing the interests of the country and opening it by railways. They iden- . tify themselves with the people, and their help and guidance will be valuable. The old prejudices and the spirit of antago- nism on the part of the working classes towards the merchants — the 23roduct of former times and of old memories and tradi- tions — will disappear when they are found doing tlieir duty,, CHARACTEUISTICS OF THE ]'P:()I'LE. 201 and coufidcncu iiml l'iieu\ 111 tlie lieiglit of tliL' lishiiig season, if fisli ave almndant tlie labours of the iislieiineu are severe and incessant ; but during the long winter, the bulk of them are in a state of enforced idle- ness. In the fall of (lie year, after the fish are dispo-ed of, there are boats, nets, etc., to repair, stages and tlakes to look after, and fuel to lie cut in tlie woods and hauled over the snow. Much of the work of handling and drying tish is done by women and girls, whose work is ol'teii veiy heavy. If the tishery has proved suc- cessful, the fisherman has a snug Ijalance coming to him, after paying for his summer supplies and is enabled tu lay in a stock ■of provisions for the winter. Should the fisheries prove a failure, the poor fisherman aftei' all his toil has perhaps only a lew quin- tals of fish to haufl over in payment of his advances. He is then dependent on the lil)erality of the merchant oi' planter for a sup- l^ly of the necessaries of life to carry him through the winter. Should he have done his best, and acted honestly, such supplies are rarely refused. The merchant or sui)})lier has to take the risks of the voyage as well as the fisherman, and in Viad seasons his losses are often very heavy. Shouhl a second or third Imd .season follow on the back of the first, the unfortunate fisherman too often becomes hopelessly involved in debt. The merchant finds himself at the end of the year with a long list of bad or very doulitful delits in his ledger, and sutt'ers (juite as much as the fisherman. It is easy to see that the business of supijlying for the fisheries is far from being a bonanza. One liad season may sweep away the gains of several good ones. The more the credit system is curtailed the better for both parties. The mer- chants would be ghul to abolish credit and jiay the fishermen in cash for their fish when taken ; but the practice is deeply en- grained, during by-gone generations, in the habits and ideas of the peoi)le, and the bulk of them are too jioor to dispense with advances. The more distant fisheries, such as on Labrador and the Banks, could not at present be carried on without large outlay of ca})ital. To \vithdraw advances suddenly wouhl be to entail .starvation on thousands. The jireseut class of merchants and CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEORLE. 20:^^ capitalists are not accountable for a system which originated when the fisheries were first worked and is the growth of many generations. Tliey can only get rid of it by slow degrees. nSHIiSG POPULATION IMPllOVING. Late years, howe\'er, have witnessed a niarl^ed improvement in the condition of the fishermen. They are beconung more provi- dent and thrifty ; and i'ar larger ninnbers tlian formerly can now aftbrd to dispense with supplies on credit, and pay in cash for what they require. There is every reason to hope that this will be a steadily increasing class, as education spreads. Tliose wim combine farming with fishing are invariably the most inde- pendent and comfortable oi their class. On the wliole tlie fishermen of Newfoundland, though they have not much of this world's goods, compare not unfavourably, as to their condition, with the labouring classes of other countries. It tliey have pri- vations and hardships they have many compensations for these, ill their free o^jen-air life, tlieir robust health, their capabilities of enjoying simple pleasures. There is jierhapsas mucli genuine happiness among them as among any similar nundjer who toil for the daily bread. Compared with tlie pale factory workers, the toilers in the great cities of Europe and America who breathe a iiestifei'ous atmosphere in crowded tenements, too often ainid foul conditions that depres.s the spirits and shorten life, the con- dition of these hardy fisliermen is an enviable one. Their 23assionate attachment to the land of their l)irth, their love for it when settled in other lands and their frequent longings to retuni, — all indicate that their life has been on the whole a liap[iy one. SOCIAL, ENJOYMENTS. Winter is tha fishermen's season for enjoyment. In their homes, however jioor, life vindicates its right to gladness and re- laxation. The season for "fireside enjoyments, home-born liap- j)iness " is welcomed. They have their social 2>leasures, oxitdoor sports, games, shooting, hunting, trajjping, etc. Dancing is a favoarite winter amusement among tlie lisln-nnen and their families ; and to the music of the fiddle, tlie tlute or fife, or in the absence of any other instrument, the .lew's Hari>, they dance 204 CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEOPLE. for hours with a vigoui- and lionest lieartiness which brings them more real pleasure than is experienced in the refined and artifi- eial entertainments of more advanced loinniunities. Weddings in particular are celel)rated with an auiouut of gaiety and festi- vity whicli at once imlicates exubei'ance of animal spirits, and a kintlly sympathy with the " liappy couple." Winter is also the .season for tea festi\'als, religious and secular sijirees, lectures, con- certs, readings with music, &c. St. John's, the capital, of course, takes the lead in such matters, and there winter is considered by far tlie joleasantest season. A taste for theatricals and concerts has been develojied among its people ; clubs, reading rooms, libraries, furnish social and intellectual enjoyments. With balls, .skating rinks, snow-shoeing, tobogganing, sleighing, tlie winter passes pleasantly among the Avell-to-do classes. In tlie larger towns and villages similar social enjoyments, on a smaller scale and of a simpler character, are multijdying ; and newspapers, liooks, periodicals, now find their way among the lonely "dwell- ers by the sea " where formerly they were entirely unknown, and are stirring intellectual life among the toilers of the sea. If it be true, as some one has stated it, tliat "the law of the world's progress is an advance from the warmer to the colder latitudes," — from the enervating heat of the tropical and semi- tropical lands to the invigorating climes of the bracing north, Ave may ask whether the day is not coming when these stalwart islanders, nurtured amidst storms and grim north-easters, l)at- lling with the billows amid ice-laro- gressive capabilities, at present dormant, in the comparatively .small population who occujjy this island. CHAPTER X. POPULATION— RATE OF INCREASE. CENSUS OF 1891. The earliest e.^timato of the resident population of the island -was made in 1654, %\heu it was ascertained that about 350 fami- lies were scattered in the different harbours. Allowing an ave- rage of five persons to each family, the total population was, at that date, 1,750. In 1680, the commanders of the convoy friga- tes, on duty in connection witli the fisheries, collected statistics of the population which gave 2,280 as the number of residents. "The West Country merchants, who cai'ried on the fisheries from England, had in the same year nearly 4,000 men employed in ihe various fishing ^Jorts of the island, who all returned to Eng- land at the close of the season. They had 97 ships of the burden of 9,305 tons ; 793 boats ; 133 stages. Besides they had 99 ships .of 8,123 tons, navigated by 1,157 seamen and employed in carry- ing the produce of the fisheries to Europe, the West Indies and South America. Their annual take was 133,910 quintals of dried .codfish, and 1,053 hog.sheads of train-oil. In 1698, the resident j^opulation reached 2,640, who that year caught 101,152 quintals of fish. Tlie following table .shows the resident pojjulation in the years named : — ~^'ear. Poimlation. 1654 . 1,750 1680 . 2,280 169S . 2,640 1763 . 7,000 1780 . 8,000 1785 . 10,000 206 POPULATION. Year. Po]nilation 1804 . 20,380 1825 55,719 1827 . 59,571 1832 60,000 1836 . 75,094 1845 98.703 1857 (La1 >ra(.lor iiicludoil) 124,288 1869 u 146,536 1874 (( 161,374 1884 u 197,589 1891 u 202,040 RETURNS OF THE RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. It was not till 1845 that the different religions denominations- Avere distinguished in the censns returns. Tlie following table shows the respective numhers of the two k-ading divisions of Roman Catholics and Protestants in the years named, according to the census returns : — Year. 1845 . 1857 . 1869 . 1874 . 1884 . 1891 (Labrador inc.) 127,94 The following table gives, in detail, the numerical strength of the different denominations at the various periods named : — Protestants. Roman Catlioli 49,505 46,983 67,743 57,214 85,496 61,040 97,057 65,317 122,259 75,330 ) 127,947 72,696 1845. Chui'cli of Rome . 46,983 Church of England . . 34,294 Methodists . 14,239 Presbyterians 478 Congregational ists 539 Remainder iinknown. roruLATiox. lS5r. Churcli of Roiae . 57,214 Cluu-ch of England . 44,285' Metliodists . 20,229' Presbyterians 83S Conf^^regationalists 347 Baptists and otliers 1869. 44 Cliurcli of Eome . 61,040 Cluircli of England . 55,184 Methodists . 28,990' Presbj'terians 974 Congregationalists 338 Baptists 1874. 10' Clmrcli of Eome . 64,317 Cliurcli of England . 59,561 Methodists . 35,702 Presbyterians . 1,168 Congregationalists 461 Baptists and others 1884. 165 Church of Eome . 75,330 Church of England . 69,646 Methodists . . 48,943 Presb^'terians . 1,478 Congregationalists 768 Baptists and others 1891. 65 Church of Rome . 72,696' Church of England . 69,824 Reformed Church o f En-land 487 Methodists , , . 5,3,276 Presbyterians . . 1,449' 207 ■208 POPULATION'. Congregationalists .... 782 Salvation Army .... 2,092 Baptists and others .... 37 Moravians on Labrador . . . 1,397 The last iiamed returns include Labrador. The total poi)ulation of Newfoundland and Labrador in 1884 was 197,335. The census of 1891 gives 202,040 as the population of both ; showing an increase of 4,705 in seven years, or at the rate of 2.38 per cent, in that time, or at the rate of 3.40 per cent, in ten years. From 1874 to 1884 the increase was 36,209, or at the rate of 22.4 per cent, in ten years. The falling off in in- . crease from 1884 to 1891 was caused by emigration to the United States and Canada, oAving to deficient fislieries. The emigration has almost ceased during the last two or three years, so that pro- bably the increase of pojnilation lias now resumed its normal proportions. The Labrador population in 1891 stood as follows in regard to • denomination : — Church of England . 1,749 Church of Eome 354 Methodists 604 Presbyterians 2 Moravians . 1,397 INIicmac Indians . 20 The Moravians are christianized E squimaux. POPULATION. 209 The following taljle shows the population of Newfoundland according to denomination, census of 1891 : — POPULATION OF NEWFOUNDLAND ACCORDING TO DENO- MINATION, CENSUS OF 1891. District. Church of Eng- ' ' land. j! . il 6 Wesleyan. Presbyterian. Other Denomi- nations. 1 St. Bailie 3,362 1,784 1,627 14 3 Twilliugate ... 3,916 2,449 9,661 58 696 Fogo ..^ 2,829 1,174 2,692 4 1 Bonavista 8,550 3,069 6,045 14 171 Trinity ... 9,947 1,613 6,888 11 413 Bav-de- Verde 506 ... 1,011 2,135 1,896 7,062 2,734 5 Carbonear ... 10 114 Harbor Grace 8,033 5,494 1,964 157 233 Port-de-C4rave 2,999 1,991 2,722 1 273 Harbor Main ... 2,157 6,814 218 St. John's East ... 5,376 11,644 2,767 652 337 St. .John's West ... 3,174 9,112 2,368 378 219 Ferryland 169 5,673 5 5 1 Placentia 1 ,643 10,614 527 13 5 Burin 1,797 2,930 3,845 2 485 Fortune 5,292 1,817 120 4 438 Burgeo and La Poile". 5,162 138 1,166 4 1 St. George ... 2,252 3,995 261 121 3 Labrador 1,749 354 604 2 1,397 Total ... 69,834 72,696 53,276 1,449 4,795 Factories, mills, &c., in New bundlan d, Censu 3 of 1891 : — No. of a Saw Mills . Tanneries . 53 . 3 a Breweries and Distillei ies 2 a 4( Iron Foundeii Bakeries es . . 2 . 4 u Furni ture Fac Lories . 4 210 POrULATIOX. Value of Other Factories . 24 Value of above Factories . $893,860 " Goods ^'reduced $1,450,456 No. of hands employed . 1,209 " Lobster Factories . 340 " persons employed . 4,807 Value of Lobster Factories . $179,288 No. cases Lobsters, 1890 . . 77,580 Agricultural Slock and Produce, &c., in Newfoundland, Censu of 1891 :— Acres Improved Land . 64,494 " in Pasture . 20,524 "Wheat and Barley —liushels 491 Oats — bushels . . 12,900 Hay — tons . 36,032 Potatoes — l)rls. . . 481,024 Turnips — l)rls. . . 60,235 Horses .... . 6,138 Milch Cows . 10,863 Otlier Horned Cattle . ' . . 12,959 Sheep .... . 60,840 Swine .... . 32,011 Fowl .... . 127,420 Professional men — Census 1891 : — Clergymen 180 Teachers .... 601 Lawyers .... 43 Doctors .... 62 Government officials . 608 Census 1891 — According to emiiloym ent :— Merchants and Traders 767 Clerks and shop hands . 1,948 Mechanics . 2,681 Factory hands . . 1,058- Lumberers and ]\Iiners . 1,923 Engaged in curing fisli . 53,502 Farming .... 1,545" 1'01'ULATIOX. 211 According l(.) place of Ijiitli : — Natives ..... . 193,353 Foreign Britisli . 3,049 Colonies . 1,163 Other countries 369 .Census of 1891 sliows that there are of Deaf . . . ... . 159 Deaf and Dunili . . . . . 136 Blind . 187 Crippled and Disabled Paupers . 2,485 Lunatics . 280 Orphans . . . . . . 690 The Sexi's .stand to each (jther thus : — :yiaies . 100,684 Females ..... . 97,259 AOF. There are from 65 to 70 vears of age 1,536 males. " 65 to 70 " " 1,486 females. " 70 to 75 " 1,062 males. " 70 to 75 983 females. " 75 to 80 008 males. " 75 to 80 " 587 females. Upwards of 80 376 males. Upwanls of 80 " 468 females. The foUowfng are a few more items of interest which appear in census of 1891. In the twelve months preceding the census year there were 6,599 births ; 4,362 deaths ; 894 marriages. The number of males engaged in curing fish 35,931 ; of females eu- gaget;e, trade, publ,ic finances, shipping. The following table shows the revenue anil the vahiii c>f the exports and imports for tlie last twenty years : — Exports, Imports, Year. Eevence. Value. Value. 1872 ^812,752 87,166,443 $6,716,068 1873 801,412 7,700,739 6,766,603 1874 841,588 8,569,960 7,354,689 1875 830,219 8,214,768 7,058,372 1876 855,228 8,168,540 7,205,907 1877 872.913 7,625,441 7,363,634 1878 839,640 6,594,807 6,868,723 1879 962,921 7,168,924 7,261,002 1880 897,474 7,131,095 6,966,243 1881 1,003,803 7,648,574 6,86.3,708 1882 1,119,385 8,228,291 8,350,222 1883 1,262,702 7,058,738 9,131,464 1884 1,209,316 6,567,1.35 8,075,792 1885 1,009,222 4,726,608 6,698,500' 1886 1,042,424 4,862,951 6,020,036 1887 1,272,660 5,676,720 5,397,408 1888 1,370,029 6,582,013 7,420,400' 1889 1,362,893 6,607,500 6,122,985 1890 1,454,536 6,099,686 6,368,835 1891 1,824,206 7,437,158 6,869,458 1892 1,88.3,790 Records destroy ed in great fire. 1893 1,764,791 Not yet published. The f( )ll0AV ing table shows the public