^^V.V; ■ .'*'*■' ^^ * ?.*■* '■*C •*** ^2 *■ ;? R/l/j oners. Adrrrtiscmcnts. ST. JOHN'S, N. F. Wholesale & Retail Dry Goods. DRESSMAKING! MILLINERY! MANTLES! Provisions and Groceries : I.AIUiKST stock: I.OWKST PliK'KS! Cordage, Chains, Anchors, Glass, Paints and Oils, and all goods required for the Fisheries and Farming. Building- Material ! ! ! ALL KINDS OF MECHANICS' TOOLS! No lioiiie should be without or no vcssol shoulrt sail without a supply of BKECH A>I'S PII.LS. TliPi-e is no better inerticiiie liitown. We are s«)le Agents. SPECIAL NOTICE. ( 'nslouins rrsiiliug in OutpoitN can ^;ave the trouble and ex- |K'use of coining to St. Jolin's, by sending order and money vo. registered letter or Post Ottice Or<ler, as we give such orde:s the ,greatest attention and cliarge our lowest jnice. G. KNOWLING. Advertisements. WM. H. DAVIDSON, WHOLESALE AND RETAIL FAMILY GROCER. 367 - - WATER STREET, ST. JOHN'S. - - 367 MANUFACTURER of Jams and Jellies made from native Fruits, which have received the approval of Her Majesty' the Queen ; and Sole Agents for (i, \V. (iOODWIX \- SOX, " /FY so.jf:' MAX( 'H KSTKl!, KNt ILANl ). ALKX. (XiSTOX \- SONS, -SCOTCH SOAPr ABERDEEN, SCOTLAX 1 ). COX .^- CO., " A7iti Biirton ^Uc's and Stoitt!' LONDON, ENOLANI). Koiir.Ks. m.\.\\vi:ll \- co.. '' Cordials and Fi'iiit Syrups^ AIJERDEEX. SCO'I'LAXI). The New HYDROLEINE CO., (Limited), Sanitary Wash- ing Powders, Ashly-de-la-Zouc!i, England. 'I'I';k>IS -Ciisli with order.-. t>r a]i]ir<>vc(l C'if.v ri'loroni-es. Ai/r>rh'sniicnt-<. EJsTAIU.ISlIKI) lS,'.->. Thos. McMiirdo & Co., \A/holesal<3 and Dispensing CMEIVIISXS. TT^ULL stock.- cif Drugs ami Clieiuicals ot all kinds always (..n -^ liaiid. English and Anieiican Patents and Piopiietoiy Gdoils of i-epntt-. Dry Paints, Stains, VarnislK-.-, ^'v:^. Agricul- tural, Garden and Flower Set-ds. Fl()\wringBullis in their si-ason. ^^' Careful and laonqit attention to Outport orders. IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIMIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIIIIIinilllllflllMliinilllllllilllilil Marine and Family Medicine Chests. iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiitiiiiiitiiiiiiiiiiiiini Water-St., St. John's, N. F. Cabinet-makers, oisterers, GENERAL HOUSE FURNISHERS. DUCKWORTH AND GOWER STREETS. ^Lih'i'ii ixi'jiti'iif.-<. lippii & Geierel MMi t!!!!lil!!;il!ll'l!!lliniilllinilllllli:illllllll!llllllllllllllllllllllllliii! Water Street, St. John's, N. F. iiiiiiiiiiiiiiii:[iii!!;ni!i;i[iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii;iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiir Importers and Wholesale and Retail Dealers in all kinds of Canadian & American Goods. (iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii; Our Departments are replete with the largest stocks in town of Dry Goods, Hardware, Groceries, Provisions and Ships' Chandlery. Agents for the Liverpool «& London & Globe l>s"SUR^^NCE CO. LLOYDS' AGENTS. Adirrfiso/icvts. Li) Alia. llli'^ WATER STREET, ST. JOHN'S, GENERAL IMPORTER OF GOODS, GROCERIES, PROVISIONS, LIQUORS, &c., is now occupying: his New Premises Wlieiv lu' invitfs insjirclidii ol'liis lui-yc .'-tuck. ('(jJtisli, Oi! ;ui.l LtilistL'is inuTliascd at market lates. W'liaiTai^i- ami Sfoia^i^i- ar- i-Ciiiini(iiLatinii. I'li-misrs all new ami rcnti'allv .-itiiatcil. J. F. ClIIHllOLM, WATER SXKEET, - - ST. .lOHN'S, XKWl'Ol NDLAM), rMPORTER and Dwilcr in Stati(Hm-i-y and PxK.ks of all kinds ;. J- Peiiinlicals. ilnsic, C'liaits and Xantical ^^'('l■ks, Fancy (loods, Toys, Walking Sticks, Trout and Salmon 'J'acklc, Piju^s and Siuokc'Vs' Snndries. Books, i'criodicals, Music, &c., supplied to order iiromjitly, at lowest casli jirices. Order.- lilled with (le>]iatrli. li!STABI.I.SHKI) ISnS. TlTCALT^iVirAX, DEAlJOIl IX STOVES A^NTI3 TINWARE, W]iole<ale and Ketail. Plumbing and Gas F"itting. 384 & 386 WATER STREET, ST. JOHN'S, N. F. Advert/s'iiuiif^i. '\ Cable Address : , All "ANGEL," ST, .)«>H>S. I . r\ n James Angel. , Te,.pho„,. : . A. P. Brown. ' DOCK. Xo. 48. SXaiJK, No. rr, . I ' ' '■■■""■■ JAME S ANGEL <& CO. ST. TOMB'S ORY DOCK. Til.' L.argest Dry Do.-k on iliis si.le tliL- Alhuitif. LuiiKtli. owr all, 610 ft ; wiiltli of eiitr.inre, S-1 tt. 9 in. : Dejit!! nf water on sill at onliiiarv tides, 24 feut. T ARdE SHEDS \uv tli.' stor;iuv i.f Frfi-ht. Evrry facility -*-^ for Slii]i Vfpaii--. Vessel^ (if any size ivijuiriug repairs Avitliout D(X-ka<^t' i/aii lu- laid aliiiijj;<iilc (nir iU'e])-\\ater pier*. 2^"" An exclusive Lloyd's Surveyor roideiii in the port. Ex- tensive Work Slio])s on Dock side fitted -w itli iiiacliinery for the repairs of Hulls, Engines antl Boilers. We have had a long and varied ex]ieiience in all kinds of Ship and Engine -work. A lai-ge and etfieient staff of Engineers, Boiler-makers, Ship Repairers, ( 'oppersniiths, Hlaeksniitlis and Ship (,'arpentHi-s al'.vays eniployeil ;nid ready fa- any size joli. Diver, with all appliances ; Sti-aui I'linip and wiveking materials 'lU tlie premises. Ships' linttoms cleaned and coateil with Auti-Fouling Com- positions. Dockage rates according to size of vessels and time on Dock, but always rea--onal)le. Castings in Ii-iai or Bia^s to any weiglit. Siii]> Stores for 'leck or engine room alwavs on liaiid at the Doek or at our En- gineers' and Mill Furnishing Stores -No. 7 Water Street West. Fi'iends and sti-angers are always welcome to examine the Dock, with its sjilendiil Pum])ing House and Work Slio[)s, where jii'e cai-i-ied rill all classes of Engine and Fonndiy work and the manufactui-e of any reipiisite for llie smallest fisjiing sdiooner to llie largest >teamshi[i. Late Sliip]iing an<l Engineering I'aperson fyle at our offices >\nd sliown with pleasure to those interesti-d. At oui' l^ngineei-s" and Mill Furnishing Stores are kept a large -toek of liiviss (tooiIs for Engines and Steam Fittings : all >izes of Iron Pipe am! Fittings ;' I'.elting, Oils, Steel Bar Iron. Every class of (Joods in our line. Mai.diinery f(a- Saw Mills: 1 loi-ting Engines for Mines; Boilers for Land an<l Mai'ine woik mnd.' ; an-1 dralei's in secoud- li'ind Machiiierv of e^eiv elass. Aih-iiilfiinncnt^. Goodfellow&Co. GEE"EEAL IMPOPvTERS AI^D COM- MISSION :^[ER(JHA1^T8, 239, 241, 243, 245, 247, Water Street, St. John's, Newfoundrcl C^<-0-«-<-0<><-0-CM>«-<K>-(><'-fr<><K«>-0-0-0-«-(><>-<> <^<>-0-6-0-0-0-<><)-0-<>H?H><<HO^J<^><►os►-6•6<Kt<t-<^>^■*^♦ — i>KAi.!;:;s ix- Drv Goods, Hardware, Provisions, (rroceries, and Ships' Chandlery. Aguf- iui- ill,' \\i-ll-k(ln\\ii liiiii ,,r W'ii. HorxsELi. & Co., I'.ridpi't, Liiii' -iiiil l\\iiii' iii;iii;i['urlui'crs. In lie alinvc (l(']iartiiHMits a lai-gv ami \ai'it'(l ai^sovtineiit of all classe;ot" gonils is kcjit: wliicli aiv miI.1 at thi; smallest inarfi-iu of ■profit. For all kinds uf ])i-(,.lure, sii.-h as FISH, OIL, HER- RIXC, SALMON, LOBSTEKS. FURS, we pay the liigliest ]irice> HaviiiiT exeelleiit facilities Icu- doing lutsiness in our new [>reni~es, -we gurrantee satisfaelion in all de[tai'tnients tij those ivvho nay tavur us will: their patroirige. Adrcrtisements THE ST. JOHN'S CONFECTIONARY. FRUIT A.VD FLOWER STORE : FRED C WOOD, Proprietor. Maimractui'ci- ami liii]i(iiU'r nf ,K^^ CONFECTIONERY — »J. (if suiMTioi' (|iialit\. AGENT FOi; Xl'lJt. <>!■ THE .Vol'.l SioTIA XI'IISE Choice Ice Cream, Soil.i WmU-i- with p in' Fiuir Syniii>. ;uul all ki New Fruit in se;isrin. CITY CLUB BUII.I>IN<i, W.VTICK STHKKT, ST. JOHX'S, ji(/ rf/iisf/iu/ifs. S. E, GARLAND, ■DOOKSELLEli, XEWSDEALEl!, AND STATIONED, AMiolesali- ;uiil Retail Di-ak'r in (_'liaits. Domestic and Famv Glu", Cliina ami Eartlifii\v;iiv, JcwelliMV, Tin, Wood, ami dtlu'i- Toys, Trout ami Salmon Tacklt-, Smokers' JJojuisitcs. and all kimls of Eaney (looils. "••"...'■'" Used Xewloundland Stamps, st-rond hand Books lituiiilit and >iild. GARLAND BUILDING: ITT Watkk Stkket East, and ■2'j(> Watki! Sthket, "\\'i:st : Ay A. ^ Fine Tailoring. SNOW & CO., Harness and Trunk-Mckers, 422 Watep. Street West, St. John's, Xewi-oundi.aM'. A lull >tork on hand of HARNESS, HORSE CLOTHING, STABLE WEAR. Repairix(t a Specialty. WM. CAMPBELL, (.SrcCE.^.sciI; TO THE I.ATK HKNliY ULDEU:, Ships supplied promptly. Ships' Stores on hand. Satisfaction guaranteed. 350 - Water Stkei:t. .St. .1i>h.\"s. Xi;wfoi xhlaxh. - ;550" One Door Kast of General I'ost Otti< e. NEWFOUNDLAND AS IT IS IN 1894: A HAND-BOOK AND TOURISTS' GUIDE. THE REV. M. HARVEY, LL.])., F.R.S.C'. .■1 1'JlKjr <,/'' Te:d-Bn«l: of XeirfiMrnJhi„J IL'ytnri/ ; J rtides " Xeirjlund' hmd,'' " Lahraihyr," and ''Seal Fisheries of the World," in Encj/chipaedla Uritannim ; " Lectureff Literary and Biogra- phical ; " Where are v:e and Whither Tending;' and line of the authors of " XeKfonndland — The Oldest British Col .,1,/:' WITH COLOURED MAP. ST. JOHN'S, X.F. J. AV. WITHKKS. gillKN-; PKIXTKK. 1894. PREFACE. In tlie lollowiuf,' ]>A'j,{:.s I liavc ainicil iit prcseutiiig, in a irioilerate -Miiiliass, a (•oiiii)i-elieusivf ami trust-wortliy account of Xewl'ouiidlaiul as it is at the present time. In <loin>; so it was necessary, of course, to refer to its history and to trace its jirogr.-.-s in tlie past, so as to understaml how it canie to be wliat it is in 1894. I have devoted a consiilerible jporlion of tlie volume to a ile-;criptioa of t>ie natural resources ancl capabilities of tlie Island. These have been largely overlooked or mis-represented ; ami, as a <:onsequence, under- valued and neglecteii. 'L'lic ai-count giv^ii in tliese jiages of the agricul- taral and mineral resour.-i-s of th.i country ami of its forest wealth, will b-' a surprise to many, i have endeavoured, however, iu dealing with the subject, to secure strict a -curacy of statement, and to be guided solely Ity ficts and ))y the liighesi and best authorities. Tliese natural resources, as I believe, are siicli as Viarraut us in ])redicting a bright and jirosperous future lor the Calony now that the eonstruction of railway.s has opened its agricultural, mineral and forest lands, and prejpared a way for enter- prise and capital to turn tlicm to |)rotitalile account. 1 lia\e also dwelt on tlie grand staple industry of the Colony — the tislieries, — and gi\cii a full account of their [iresent comlitioii and pros- jiects in tlie future. Tiie French Treaty Rights on certain jiortions of the ■ihore and their ettects on the Colony, have received iliie attention. (>tlier topics dealt with are education, finances, trade and comnierce, govern- ment, pulilic institutions, population, and tlie general Ijusiiiess of tl'.e ..•(luutry. Ill the i'lia]iter for travellers and tourists I have dwelt on the tine scenery of the Island, and given such information and directions as ai'e requireil for enabling them to see the country to the best advantage. There cari be little doubt that, in the near future, Xewfouiidland is de.s- tiiied to holil an important jilace as a health-resort during its summer months, and as a country which presents rare attractions for the tourist and the sportsman. Xuniei-ous lines of steamers now remler access to its shores easy, and the extension of its railway system and local steam com- municatioii ]ilace within reaidi of visitors from other lands all that is attractive and interesting in the beauty of its scenery. A residence of over forty years in the Colony has given ine oppor- tunities of becoming ac(|uaiiiteil with the country anil the peojile. It will be a source of gratification to me if this little volume sliould aid in making the country better known ami attracting to it that attention which it richly merits. AI. H. tiT. John's, .Iulv, 1894. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I HISTORICAL SKETCH. Tack The Aborigines ; The Xortliiiieii : Tlie Coining of the Wliite men : Tlie tirst lisliernien : Sir Hiuii]ilirey (iilliert ; TheFreneli in Newfoinni- land ; Historic Misfortunes ; I'njnsl L;nvs ; Dawn of better days . 7 CHAPTER II. PHYSIOGRAPHY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF THE ISLAND. Geograiiliieal ]>osition ; Its niountain-ranges, rivers, lakes, etc. : Geo- logy ; Climate ... ... ... ... ... ... 24 CHAPTER HI. ROADS AND RAIL\A^AYS. First roads ; Beginning of Railway construction ; Railway to Harlioiir Grace ami Placentia ; The Great Northern and Western Railway — its rotite, character of the country traversed ; resources to be developed ; land, minerals, tindjer ... ... ... 4-3- CHAPTER IV. AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES AND FOREST WEALTH. Western Newfoundland ; Fertile Valleys ; Coal Fields ; Mineral De- postts ; Exploits, Gander and Gambo Valleys ; Value of Agricul- tural Products ; Prospects of Cattle and Sheep Puaising ; Forests . 89 CHAPTER V. MINERAL RESOURCES. Eise and Progress of Mining Industry ; Copper Miues ; Gyjisum and Marble ; Iron Pyrites at Pilley's Island ; Discovery of Asbestos ; Coal Areas ... ... ... ... ... ... 12-3 C()STKSJ<. CHAPTER VI. THE CROWN LANDS- ACTS. TAcr. Purclia.-e of L;iii<l ; Licenses ot Oreii Ration : Hoiuestcad ; Licenses to cut Tiinlier ; Paper Pulp Aet ; Licenses to .seanh for Minerals ; Sheep Farming Kegulations ... ... ... ... I'ji CHAPTKR \Ii. THE FISHERIES. Evolution of tlie (_'o(l-lisliery~its value ami ]iros]iects ; Seal, Herring, fealiiio'.i anil Loi srer Fislieries : Fi.slieries" Coniini.ssion — it.s gooil work ; Artificial Proi)agatiou of Marine Fooil-fislies ; Great Suc- cess of C'oil anil Lolister Hati liing : Bait Preservation — the Freezing Barrel : Refiigerators ... ... ... ... 140 CHAPTKR VIH. INTERNATIONAL- TREATIES. Their Effects ; Treaty Iliglits of the French: The "French Shore," Disputes, Perils of the Situation; Michm rivnil'i ; Legislative Action : Present Negotiations ... ... ... ... 170 CHAPTER IX. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEOPLE THE CLASSES AND THE MASSES. Saxon and Celtic Elements ; Mental ami Moral Qualities , Capital ami Labour ; The Creilit System ; Tlie Fishermen ; Social Pleasures . 193 CHAPTER X POPULATION. Eate of increase — The Census of 1891 ; Numbers of Religious deno- minations ; Agi'icultural returns ; Employments of the people ... 20.' CHAPTER XT MODE OF GOVERNMENT. Con.stitution — House oi As.seinbly — Legislative Council — The Gover- r.or— Law Courts ; Fievenue ; Trade ; Finances ; Shipi>ing ... 212 CONTEXTS. CHAPTER XII. EDUCATION. Pace Srliools — Acaikiiiif<— CollfLTes — Leg'islative Grants I'm' Ediicatidii ... 220 CHAPTER XIII. Post Ottiee D^partiiiriit : Coiistal)iilary ; Light Hcjuscs ; Banks; Xi-ws- jiaiier Press ... ... ... ... ... ... 22d CHAPTER XIV. SCENERY. Attractions for Travel lers and Tourists; Likeness to Norway; Tlie Inland as a liealtli-resort ; Ojiinions of travellers on Seeiiery ; The v.eather ; London " Times'' on NewfoninUaml ... .. 233 CHAPTER XV. DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. How to see the Country ; Rout.'s of Travel ; Steamship Lines to Eng- land, Halifa.x", New York, Montreal ; Coastal Steamers ; St. John's — Objects of interest there, its .streets, buildings, etc. ; Industries ; Drives and walks in vicinity of St. Jehu's ; Signal Hill ; Qaidi Mdi : To Torliay ; Portugal Cove ; Petty Harbour ; Renews : E.\- cursions by Sea — We.steru Route to Bonne Bay ; Northern Route to Battle Harbour and Labrador ; Moravian Mission stations ; Grand Fall.s, Laln'ador ; Railway E.xcursions from St. John's to Harbor Grace, thence to He.art's Content ; Working of Cables — Instruments ; Rejiairing Cables ; New Cable of 1894 ; Heart's Delight — Scene of Josejih Hatton's ''L'lider the Great Seal"; Dildo Hatchery ; Placentia, its tine Scenery ; History ; Curiosi- ties ; Relics, etc. ; Richard Brothers the Mad Pro] diet ; St. John's to E.xiiloits ; Northern and Western Railway ; Stations and Dis- tances ; Fishing ; Hotels in St. .John's ; Trip to St. Pierre and ^liqnclon ; Descri]ition of the Islands ... ... ... 245 CHAPTER XVI. SPORT IN NENA/TOUNDLAND. Wild Geese and Ducks ; Curlew, Plover, Ptarmigan Sliooting ; Deer Stalking; Salmon Fishing ... ... ... ... ... 291 APPENDIX. No. 1 — Erratum ; New Cable ; Stock Exchanges, London and New York, connected hy CaVile ; Talile of Lengths of ( 'ables. No. 2 — Scenery; Pay of I-skands ... ... ... ... ... 295 ■NEWFOUNDLAND AS IT IS IN 1894: A HAND-BOOK AND TOURISTS' GUIDE. CHAPTHi; r. HISTORICAL SKETCH. AltOKIGIXAI. XKWFOIXOLAXD. .Shovi.d it Ik- askfil : Wlio wciv llie very first liiiinau iiilia- liitants (if ill is laigc island ; to uliat race oi- nation did they belong ; and what \ww their appearance and haliits ; what plane of civilizaliun had they reacdied :' ^Ve are unahle to answer these (piestions. History enables us to go back only to the arrival of the first European ex]ilorers, and to describe the inhabitants found l)y them in possession of the island some four hundred years ago. But it is (piitc jtossible and even likely that other races may have preceded the Red Indians who were occupants of the soil when the "palef>ices" first trod these shores-, .and these may lia\-e disap])eared, leaving no trace behind, after playing their ])art for many centuries on this narrow^ stage of being. "We know something about the latest comers, but all is .eloudland as regai'ds any earlier tribes. GEOr^OOICAl, CHAXGKS. AVe have more records in the rocks, regarding the earlier • changes through which this ])ortion of the globe has passed, than .of the evanescent human lieings who first trod its surface. — •Geology has much to tell us of vast transibrmations during the .aeons of the past ; of the seas flowing over much that is now diy land ; of the bottoms of old Camln-ian and Silurian seas now elevated inli) hill-ranges ; of vast denudations sweeping 8 IIISTOltlCAL SKETCH. away later fonuatious ami s|(iva(liiig tlie wrecks over the floor of ocean ; of volcanic operations that lironght to tlie sui'face the- mineral-bearing rock.s, placing the precious ores M-ithin tlie reach of man. Aliove all, geology lias much to say aliout an ice-age^ (towards the close of the Tertian), when Newfoundland, in common with many nciglibouring lamls, was luide]' a liuge ice-cap many hundreds of feet thick, just as Greenland now is, and during which glaciers foi- Imndreds of centuries were shap- ing its valleys and scooping out its hays ami lakes and (>overing much of its surface with hoidders of Archaean rocks. Tliesc glaciers have left their grooves on the rocks, hy which tlieir course can still be traced. This ice-co\cring ;it lengtli l>egan lo' shrink as the climate grew milder, and finally disappeared. Plants and animals, different from any now I'xisfing, lived and died. Sj)ecies followed species, of whicli we can trace some faint outlines in the rocks. Whether any Jiuman eyes looked on them we know not ; lait, if so, they, too, passed away leaving no memorials of themsehes. And when those daring voyagers crossed the stormy Atlantic and reached this sea-girt isle they found it inhalnted by a race in all resj^ects resendiling the savage tribes of the neighbouring North American continent, and evidently belonging to the same stock. These early ex- plorers from Europe for a long time believed that the coiintry they had discovered was not a new continent, but the eastern £ihores of Asia, or India, as it was named, and hence they called the whole inhabitants, both in North and Soiith America,. "Indians." From their complexion the northern tribes were afterwards designated "Red Indians," and the whole tribes "American Indians." THK IJEOTHIKS. The Indian race found in NeAvfoundland called themselves Bcothiks. This Avas their tribal name. Their features resembled those of the continental Indians. They had high cheek bones, email black eyes, straight black haii', and were of a copjun-color. Their weapons, canoes, tents or wigwams and domestic utensils resembled those of neighbouring tribes on the continent. Their HISTOIIICAL SKETCH. 9" ]ial)its of life -were alike in many ivsjiccts and tiny iivcil liy hunting and ti.sliing. Among learned men who have ytudied carefully the few relics which have l)een ])reserve(l, and examined the meagre and un- certain vocal mlaries which contain all that remains of their language, there is a difference of opinion as to Avhether they were a branch of the wide-spread and warlike Algonkins who once occupied nearly the whole of Canada and a larg(? portion of the United States, or whether they wei'e a separate and older race of Red men, who had at an unknown (hite migrated to this island, where for many centuries they sustained tliemselves and increased in numliers. There is a certain aniounl of evidence in favour of the latter view, hut no certainty <'an now be reached. CONUITIOX OF THE 15KOTHIKS. When Cabot discovered the island, in 1497, the Beothiks were a numerous and powerful race, well-<level(>[)ed jihysicallv, inge- nious and of (piick intelligence, gentle in tlieir manners, tracta- ble, and not indisposed to friendly intercourse witli the pale faces. They had lived for unknown ages luimolested. The island with its abundance of Avild creatures of all kinds, its shores and countless lakes swarming with fish, was to them a very i)aradise. Countless herds of the finest rein(h'er wandered over the savan- nas of the interior, in their anuTial migrations. The ponds were abundantly stocked with bea\er ; the lordly salmon crowded the rivers ; vast flocks of i)tarmigan and other game birds Avere every- where met with. Wild geese and ducks in the early sj^ring arrived in myriads from tlie south. Tlie Beothiks must have revelled in savage abundance, Ijeing " nmnarchs of all they sur- veyed." They jiractised no agriculture ; but the wild berries, in their variety and luxuriant growth, su2)plied them with abun- d.ance of vegetalde food. The skins and furs of the wild animals gave them abundant clothing. With their spears, clubs, bows and arrows, slings, and many ingenious devices for cajituriug their prey, they were rarely in \A-ant of food and clothing. New- foimdlaud is still a tine sporting country, l)ut what must it have been in the time of the Beothiks ! 10 msTorJCAL sketch. SrFl'KKIXGS OF THIC BEOTHIKS. The coming of iIr' wliite uv-n .><eale(l their (loom. For three liuiulrcnl yeav.s afterwai-ds tliey continued to exist l)ut were gra- dually liecoming weaker and weaker. For a short time friendly relations l)etweeu tliem and the invaders existed, but soon quar- rels arose. Deeds of violence led to acts of savage vengeance. The iirst rude trappers, hunters and tisliermeu, as they spread into tlie northern parts of the island, were outside the control of law, and but little disjMjsed to try conciliation and kindness on a tribe of savages Avhose pre>^ence interfered witli tlnnr pursuits. The poor Beothiks \v(Me treated with the most brutal cruelty nm\ for a long pei'iod were regarded as vermin to be hunted down and destroyed. Such treatment led the Red Man to deeds of tieice retaliation and " war t<:) the knife "' became the ])ractice l)et\veen tlie two races. In such a conte-t the weak must go to the wall. Their wea])ons coidd avail litth' against the tireai'ms of the white man. (Gradually theii- muubfrs were reduced and tliey were driven from the ]>e^t limiting and fisliing grounds. Famine and disease thinned tlieii' rank.-. THE RACK FXTIXCT. Wlien at lengtli, in m-j,lern days, the spirit of humanity awoke jiml attempts were nuule in 1760, and renewed up till 18-^3, to eonciliate the Red Men and save the poor remnant from destruc- tion, it proved to be too late. Sad experience led them to dis- trust and hate the white men, and they could jiot be apjji'oached with kindness. In despair the forlorn band that remained re- treated to their last refuge, at Red Indian Lake ; and here they died, one by one, till not a living re^jresentative of a once vigorous and warlike race remained. There is no darker chap- ter in the history of the white man's progress in the New AVorld than that which records the fate of the unhappy Beothiks. A 3IKLANCHOLY IJKCOKD. In 1828 a final effort was made to i)]>en communication with n remnant of them wliich were supposed to still survive. An expedition was organized which penetrated to llu'ii' last retreat TIISTOl.'lCAL sKpyrcH. 11 at Red Indian Lake. Only tlieir graves and the mouldering le- laains of their wigwams were i'unnd, liut no living Ik'uthik. Silence deep as death reigned avonnd. There were i'ragiuents (if their oanoe.s, their skin <lresses, their .storehouses, the rejKisitorie.s of their dead ; ])ut no human sounds wei'c heard, no smoke from wigwams mounted inUi the air, their camii-lires were ex- tinguished, and the sad reenrd of an extinct race was closed for ever. TIlKIi: KKLICS. In the Museum at St. John's may lie seen a collection of their relics and remains which ha\e heen carefully iireseived. There are a few skulls, some l)ones, and the almost jierfect skeleton of a hoy, found in a gra\e on Pilley's Island, in a wonderful state of preservation. Their tools, arrow-heads, gouges, and other .stone imidements are to he seen, hut they are gone — "Like the cloud-rack of a tempest. Like the withered leaves of Autumn." DKSCKII'TIVK ACCOUNTS. A full account of all that is known ahout the Beothiks may he found in "Hatton and Harvey's Newfoundland," in Rev. Dr. Patterson's admirahle ])a])er lead hefore the Royal Society of Canada on the "Beothiks, or Red Man of Newfoundland " ; also, in "Cormack's Journey Across Newfoundland," and in Bonny- castle's and Pedley's Newfoundland. Dr. Patterson's is the most exhaustive account jMihlished. THK NOKTH MKX. It is highly proliahle that the hrst white men wlio saw the shores- of Newfounilland were the Northmen. Five Inuulied year.s hefore the time of Cahot these hohl adventurers led hy Lief, son of Eric the Red, sailed from Gi-eenland in search of western lands. Newfoundland lay directly in their course, and according to their Sagas or hooks, on reaching it they gave it the name of " Helluland," or the lauil of naked rocks. The daring sailors passed on, however, and made no attemjit at forming a settle- ment. Their adventiu'ou< voyage, in which tiny are said to- have reached Rhode Islauil, took place in the year 1001. 12 HISTORICAL SKETCH. COMING OF THE WHITK MEN— SIR HU^IPHREY GILBERT. Nearly five c:'iiturie.s passed. Tlie year 1497 arrived, and on tlie 2ud day of May in that year a small cai-avel named The Matthein manned by 18 stout English sailors, left the i^ort of Bristol. She was conunanded l>y John Cabot, a Venetian hy birth, who was in the seiviee of Henry VII. of England. On the 24th of June following, hearty English cheers greeted the first sight of the Island of Newfoundland. Thus liy right of dis- ■covery it belonged to England, but it was not till 1583 that it was formally taken possession of by Sir Humphrey (jill>ert, in the name of Queen Elizabeth. This gallant English Knight had formed the purpose of colonizing the island, but misfortunes •overtook him and when returning to Englan<l his little vessel the (Toklrni Hind awl all on board sank beneath the waves of the Atlantic. THE FIRST FISHFKMEX. Nearly thirty years elapsi'd after tlie failure of Sir Humphrey Gilbert's expedition before any fresh attempt was made to found a Colony in Newfoundland. During that period, however, the island rose into increased imjtyrtance in connection with its fish- ^'ries. Indeed long before, the news of the almndance of iish on the Banks and in the waters around tlie shores of the island luul led the fishermen of various nationalities to visit these regions in ])ursnit of the iinny trilies ; and to use the harl)ours and coves for •curing and drying them. The first to take advantage of this new sea-harvest were the fishermen of Brittany and Normamly. They were soon followed by the fishermen of the Bascpie Provinces in the North-west of S])aiii. The Portuguese speedily took ]iart in the same fisheries. lu loTT there wei'e 100 Sjtanish and 50 Por- tuguese vessels thus employed, but they srwn began to diminish in numbers — the enter])rise of both nations being drawn to the gold regions of South America. Ere long, hardly a Spanish or Portuguese fi-hing vessel was to be seen in these .stormy seas. FRENCH FISHERIES ANI> I>lSCOVERIES. Not so with the French who followed u]) these fisheries with vigour and success. In 1577 the Fieiich jwid 150 vessels eniidoy- HISTORICAL SKETCH. 13 j-(l, wliik' English ti si ling vessels nuiiibei-ed only 50. The great wealth which Fiance Avas deriving from these seas led her to form new and extensive designs of colonizing North America. On the Accession of Henry IV., the tirst Bourbon, the cod-fishery was placed under the protection of the government, and was regarded .as being of great national im})ortance, and such it has been ever since. Her great explorers pushed on their discoveries. Cartier .disc(i\-ei'ed ("anada and secured it for France, who helil it for 225 yeai's till (^hiebec fell before the conquering arms of Wolfe, '("hamplain, l)e Monts, Manpiette, La Salle followed till the iterritories claimed by Fi'ance exten<led to the mouth of the Mississijijii. KXGLISH FISHKKMKX. The siiuie attiaction, however, which brought the French to these \\esterH seas ere long became potent with Englishmen. Tliough later in commencing this fishery they so(m gained rapid- ly on their rivals the French. During the ten years which fol- lowed the death of (lilbert, ending in 1593, the progress of the English fishery in Newfoundland waters was so great that Sir "Walter Raleigh declared in the House of Commons " it was the ■st^iy and support of the west counties of England." In the year 1600, 200 English sliips went to Newfoundland and they em- ployed 10,000 men and boys as catchers on board and curers on land. Sir Humpln-ey Gilbert's attem])t to form a settlement was tlierefore not fruitless, when Sir William Monson, an English- man who wrote in 1610, declared that since the island was taken possession of, the fisheries had been worth £100,000 annually to British subjects — an immense siini in those days. He further said that these fisheries had greatly increased the niimber of England's ships and mariners. Beyond all doulit this was the beginning of England's maritime greatness. NEWFOrXULAND'S FISHKRIKS THF BEGIJTXIXG OF ENGLAXD'S MAKITI^FE SUPREMACY. France and England had now l)etween them the entire posses- sion of these fisheries, liotli nations dj'ew enormous wealth from 14 IIISTOKICAI, SKET( II. tlieiii vt-ar after year, ami tlms incveased tlieir national greatness ;; and both found tlieni the hest nurseries for lx)ld and .skilful jailors, and thus developed their maritime po\^er. Colonies were planted by both originally with the view of protecting and car- rying on the fisheries. In this Avay the Newfoundland fisheries- really laid their foundation of the empire wliicli England at length acquired in America when her supremacy was estaldished after a long contest with France. The humble fishermen were the jiioneers of the great liost from the Old Worhl, which in due time built up the United States and overspre<id ('anada. In pro- secuting these fisheries England fii'st learned how to becomt? mistress of the seas. GUVS COLOXY. Newfoundland at this time stood out prominently In-fore the minds of Englishmen, so that it is not wonderful to fiml that other' attempts at planting a colony on its shores should bi- made soon after Gilbert's failure. In IGOfJ, John Guy, a merchant and after- wards Mayor of Bristol, drew attention in a pamphlet to the iiu- jwrtance of colonizing the island. The enterprise which he- started was shared in by Lord Hacon and other noblenu-u. Bacon declared that "the Newfound land fisheries were more valuable than all tlie mines of Pern.'' Guy's jdantation was, for some- reason luisuccessful. Priibably ])iracy then prevailing, was the- cause of failure. CAPTAIN ■WHITUOIKNK'S AliKl'\ VI.. In 161.J, Captain Richard Whitbourne, mariner, of Exmouth,. Devonshire, was sent out by the Admiralty of England to estali- lish order and correct abuses which had grown u]i among the fishermen in Newfoundland. He found 250 English vessels em- ployed in the fisheries, — a sufficient jiroof of the Hourishing con- dition of the cod-fishery at this early date. To "Wlutbourne we are indebted for the first liook on Newfoiuidland — "A Discourse and Discovery of Newfoundlaml Trade" — in which he Avrotc en- thusiastically of the country and its prospects. This book is now verv rare and valuabU-. IIISTOKIC'AL SKETCH. 15" SIK OKOKGE CALVEKT. Next came anotlifi' gallant kniglit — Sir (Icoigc Calvert, after- wards Lonl Baltimore — a gentleman of keen intelligeiu-e ami liigli cliaraeter. From Janie.s I. lie olitained a patent conveying' to him the lordshiji of the whole southern ])eninsnla of New- foundland whieh he named Avalon. He l)uilt a nolde mansion at Ferrvland, and brought out a numlter of emigrants of a su]>e- rior tyjie. His settlement, however, was so much harrassed hy the" French that he l)ecame disheartened and returned to Englaml ; hut nearly all the colonists he hrouglit Mith him remaint-d to in- crease the resident ]iopidation. SIR DAVID KIKKE. The brave sea-captain — Sir David Kirke — olttained the next chai'ter from Charles I. in 1638, and it conveyeil a grant of the Avhole island. He did much to promote the settlement of the country and governed wisely. He tlieil at Fenvland in IGGo,-. at tlie age of fifty-six. THE FRENCH IX NEWrOUNDLANXJ. All this time the French had been struggling to found an em- l)ire in the New Worhl. In doing so they never lost sight of a l>roject early formed for the conquest of Newfoundland. The jjcssession of it they knew wonhl enable tlieni to control the fish- eries, and also to command the narrow entrance to the St. Law-- rence and their Canadian possessions. Hence tliev never ceased their efforts to obtain a footing in the island ; and llieir jiresence' and encroachments were a constant annoyance to the English settlers. As early as 1635 the Frencdi managed to obtain ])er- mission ti'om England to dry fish on the shores of the island, on jjayment of a duty of five per cent, on the produce, which duty was afterwards remitted. In 1660 they founded Placentia on the" .southern coast, and erected a strong fortification for its jnotection. From this centre they succeeded in jilanting other settlements on the same shore. iJesperate eftbrts were made liy them again and again to effect tlie con([uest of the island. Their successes, how- ever, were short-lived ; and though they cajtturcd St. John's more" 16 ni.STOKICAL SKETCH. than once they were si)ee(lily driven out and their expeditions resulted in diffajipoiiitnieiit. TREATIES OF UTRECHT ANI> PARIS. Tlie Treaty of Utrecht (1713) marked an important era in the liistory of the island. By one of its provisions the French agreed to surrender all their possessions in Newfoundland and the ad- jacant islands, and to retire from Placentia. Thus the sovereignty of the whole island Avas secured to England. But even after France liad fought her last battle on the heights of Abraham, and her white flag no longer waved on the continent of North Am- erica, she clung jiertinaciously to the idea of conquering and holding Newfoundland, well knowing its value in the prosecution of her fisheries, which she still i-egarded as the great training school for seamen. So late as 1702 they organized a final expedi- tion for the conquest of the island. They succeeded in capturing 8t. John's which was weakly garrisoned ; but it was soon wrested from them by a strong British force desi)atched from Halifax. Thus ended the last attempt of the Frencli to gain jiossession of the island. The Treaty of Paris (1763) ended "the seven years war," and France I'enounced all claims to Canada, Acadia, Cape Breton and Newfoundland. TRENCH TREATY RIGHTS. Unfortunately, however, these treaties failed to deliver the Colony from the French troul>les which had so long disturbed the settlers and retarded the prosperity of the country. Though the Treaty of Utrecht left the Fi'ench no territorial rights, it gave them tlie right of fishing and curing fish on the western, northern and north-eastern shores of the island. This, which was con- ceded at first as a privilege, encouraged tlio Fi-ench to push their claims to the sole right of fishing on the treaty-shore which the colonists strenuously rejmdiated. Bitter disputes have thus been engendered, which have gone on till the ])resent hour and ai-e still unsettled. The practical effect of this unfortunate concession has been that the people of Newfoundland have been A'irtually exclude(l from the fairest ami most vaUuible i)ortiou of tlie IIISTOKH'AL SKETCH. 17 i.-*lau(l, ami that tlu'v ronld iieitlirr jaoM^Mite the tislR-nes tliere, ;.settle the lands, nor carry on mining or any other imlu.sky. The "Frencli Shore (Question" as it has been callo<l, has been trans- niittetl as a legacy from generation to generation. More than any •other cause this has retarded the progress of the Colony. The French still hold on a- pertinaciously as ever to their claims. This -was the tir-t ol the hnig series of "historic misfortunes," as Lord Salisbury has named them, of which NeAvfoundland has been the victim. In vain has diplomacy wrestled with these .anti(piated treaties time after time. The Old Man of the Sea did not cling more firmly to the shoulders of Sinbad than the Frenchman to tlie shores of p]ngland's ohlest Colony. HISTORIC :^IISKOKTrNI<:S-|iXJUST T.AWS. Ibit even these uidueky treaties, foinied l)y careless or incom- ]ietent statesmen, which deprived tlie colonists of the use of the best lialf of the island, were not the worst of its "historic misfoi-iniies." For more than a century ami a half, the settle- ment of the island and the cultivation of its soil were systematic- .ally thwarted and sternly ])rohibited 1)y law ; and continuous eHbrts were made to kee]) it as a tishing station to which English lishermen could resort in summer to catch ami ilry tisli, and then return home at the end of the season with tlie products of their toil. lIKiK.VTORV riSHEUV. This sirangi' ]>olicy, wliitli wa< backcl by English laws, re- .(piires some explanation. From the first the tisheries had been .<;arried on by merchants slnp-ownei's and tiaders from the west of England. Each year they sent out ships and fishing-crews from England. The fish caught was salted and dried ashore. AVheu w inter approached the fishermen toi)k their departure tor England. These English "merchant-adventurers" as they were .enlled, found that it was for (heir interest to discourage the settlement of the country, as they wished to retain its harbours .ami coves for the use of their own lishing captains and servants, .and thus sx-ure a very proHtalile monopoly of the whole tisheries. 18 HISTOIJTCAL SKETCEI. Tills sy.stein went on for generations till tliese mercliant-niono-- polists began to fancy that the whole island Avas their own, anil that any one who settled there was an interloper whom they were warranted in dri\ing away. Being wealthy and powerful they had great inHuence with successive English governments of those days. They were able to persuade the statesmen and ])eople of England that (lie hsheries would he ruined if a resident popula- tion shoidd be allowed lo grow up in the island, and liiat they would no longer bi- a nursery of seamen for tlu- Royal Navy. Further, they misled tlu' English Governuu-nt and peojile l)y rejiresenting the island as liopelessly l»arren, and in n-gard to its- soil and climate, untit for being a i)ermanent residence for human beings, but a very convenient rock-mass for curing and diying codfish during the suuimcr season. SICTTLKMKNT I'KOHIBITKI). In this way it came about that unjust and injurious laws were- enacted by the English ( Hivt-ruuient to ]>revi-ut the scttlciueut of the island and to keep it forever in the degraded condition of a stage for drying tish. These laws forbade anyone to go to New- foundland as a settler, and ordained that all tishermeu should return to England at the close of each fishing season. Masteis of vessels were comixd led to give bonds of £100, Innding them to bring back eatdi year such persons as they took out. Settle- ment within six nules uf tlie coast was jirolubited under heavy penalties. No one could cultivate or eiu-lose tlic smallest piece of ground, or even repair a house without license, which was' rarely granted. CONFLICT OF SKTTLFUS AN'I> MEKCH VXT-ADVEMITUF.KS, Notwitlistanding tliese liardships and disenura^cments the sturdy .settlers held their ground and slowly but steadily in- creased in numbers. Between them and their oppiessors a liitter' autii^athy .sprang up, and it is not M-oiiderrul that it shonhl have- been so. There weiv among them men of a manly indei>eiident sjtirit, who carrie<l on the contest bravely against the gras])iiig tishing-cai>italist>, and at last coiupiered them and won their' HISTORICAL SKETCH. 19 dreedoni. Tlio coiiliict, however, was very trying and extended .ovt'r one Imndred and tifty years, entailing teriilile sulferings on tlie settlers, who were ke])t outside llie ]iale of law and without i\nx eivilizing intluences. lVrhaj).s tlie worst feature of the mis- rule of tliose days was the government hy Fishing Admirals. It was enacted that the master of the iirst sliip entering a harhour was to he Admiral for the season, and Magistrate of the district, with nnlimited ]>ower to decide all t^uestions regarding jn'operty iind all other ilis])utes. From llieii- decisions there were no ap- ])eals. These rmli- and ignorant >kippers weiv the ser\'ants of the merchant-adventurers and, therefore, personally interested iu .([uestions of ju'operty that arose. They were the enemies of the poor resiilents whom they wanted to tranii»le ont. They took possession of tlie ])f<{ fishing-stations, and frequently drove out the inhaliitants from tlu-ir own houses and fishing gi'ounds. Tliey todk lirilies wlien determining cases and carried on for long years ;i, system nf nililrcry and uppi-i'ssjou. How could the iConntry make any progress under such conditions I The lot of the poor fisherman was very hittei'. In tlieir little wooden ham- lets sprinkled around the sea-margin, they conld liardly oljtain the liarest sulisistiaice. Tlicv had no schools for their children and no ministers of religion among tliem. All around them wei'c the deirse woods extending to the sea-shore with a few paths cut throngh them. Before them the great ocean from which alone lliey wei'e permitted to draw their means of sulisistence. DAWN OF BETTER DAYS. They lield on, however, and courageonsly resisted their selfish oppressors ; and at last the day of deliverance dawned. The Government and peojjle of England discovere<l at length that they had heen misled and deceived hoth in regard to the country and its fisheries. Hnmane and intelligent men in England came for- wai'il to plead the canse of the poor fishermen. Restrictions on the settlement of the island Avere removed one after another. Ohnoxions .statutes were repealed, Ijut so slowly that it was not till ahout eighty years ago that the last of these unjust laws was remove 1 fiom the statute-book and the people were allowed to 20 TIISTOUR'AL SKETCFI. possess lauds and Iniild lioiiscs and lake sonie steps towards selt'- governmeut. In 17^9 the Britisli Govei'nnient ajipointed a Governor, and for the first time New fuundhind \va.< recognized as a British Colony. I]VrPROVKMKNT,S--SETTL,EMKXT ALT-OWKD. The residcMit piipnlatiou had tlien grown to he 0,000 stiong. The Fishing Admirals, however, were not abolished till long' afterwards, but they weie brought under some sort of control ; and as the population increased and intelligence spread, their claims to authority fell into VicU-merited conteni])t and passed into oblivion. Courts of Justice were establislicd ; the na\ iga- tiou laws were extended to the island ami a collector and con- troller of customs appointed. Freedom of religion was jirnclaimed wliich ended a dei)lorable system of J'eligious persecution which liad grown up. Still so late as 1799 houses erected in St. John's without a license were pulleil down liy the order of the Governor and restrictions on building and enclosing and cultivating tlie ground were not entirely abolislied till 1820. The year 1825 saw the first roads luiilt by Governor Duckworth. A jjost-oftice and a newsjmper had Ijeen established at an earlier date — 1805- and 180G. In 1763 the resident population was 7,000 ; in 1785 it had increased to 10,244; in 1804 it Mas found to be 20,380' an<l in 1834 it was 75,000. The population of St. John's was then 15,000. SLBSTANTIAX, I'KOGKESS. Since the removal of these noxious restrictions the Colony has made resi^ectable ])rogress, and of late years this progress has been greatly accelerated by the introdiiction of mining, lumber- ing and other industries. During the long European wars which followed the Fremdi Revolution, the fisheries became very pros- perous and the i)rice of fish tivbled. Tlie peace of 1815 termin- ated that artificial prosperity and brought on a commercial crisis. In 1832 the great boon of Representative GoA'ernment was grant- ed to the Colony, and the new era of self-government began. Provisions were annually made by the local legislature for build- HISTOinCAI, SKETCir, 21 iug roads and ln'idgL's and tor tlie ostablislunent and luainteuaiice of education. Thi.s conce.s.sion was enlarged and conijileted in 1854 by the grant of Respon-sible Oovernniont. Tlie discovery of valuable dei)t)sits of cop])er ore in Notre Dame Bay in 1857 and tlie opening of the tirst eopjter mine in 18G4 gave a great imi)ul.se to the general i^rosperity of the country. A Geological Survey of the island was initiated in 1864, and its natural re- sources were foinid to be very great. The Atlantic Cable found a resting 2»lace on its shores, and connected it with England and America. 8te;im conununication direct with Europe and Am- erica was established in 1873 ; and in 1880 the tirst decisive steps towards the construction of a railway were taken. In 1882 a splendid Dry Dock was constructed in the harbour of St. John's. In 1884 the jiopulation had increased to 197,589. The annual value of agricultural products is now about $'750,000, and the value of land under cultivation, togi-tlier wWh tlie cattle, slieej) and liorses, over -$^2,500,000. DEVASTATION IJY FIRES. St. John's has grown into a city of 30,00u inhabitants. It has guifered terribly by tires which have recurred again and again. In February, 1816, a fire broke out which destroyed 120 houses and left 1,500 people homeless. On Xovendjer 7th of the same year another fire destroyed 130 houses, and a third on the 21st November laid in ashes a consideral)le part of the business j)or- tion of the city which had escaj^ed former fires. These, however, A\-ere small in comparison A\ith the great conflagration of June 9th, 1846, which in a few hours left three-fourths of the city a smoking mass of ruins, and about 12,000 persons houseless. The loss Avas estimated at a million pounds steiding. GKEAT FIRE OF JULY 8th, 1892. A still greater calamity, as far as loss of piojierty was concern- ed, occurred on July 8th, 1892, when more than one-lialf of the city was consumed. Sixteen hundred houses were destroyed and some 10,000 people left without a home. The best part of the business portion of the city was destroyed, the Church of Eng- -OO iriSTOinCAL SKETCH. laud Cathedral, several churclies and many public building:*. ■The loss was estimated at three million pounds sterling. SI'IKIT or THE PEOPLE. Tin; spirit and energy of the j)eople may be estimated from the fact that they met these repeate<l calaniities with courage and tirniness, and in each instance the city rose from its ashes greatly improved and l)eautitied. This is specially true of the last cala- mity of 1892. In two yeai's, a large proportion of the liouses destroyed by the tire, were rebuilt, many of them being of a jgreatly improved lype, and in another yeai- or two hardly a trace .of the tire will be visil)le. The new ]K)rti(in is a great improve- ment on that which was destroyed. VICTORY WON VILLAGE HAMI'DENS. The enteri)rise and calm courage which have marked the peo- ple of St. John's in grappling with and overcoming their misfor- tune, have been in ai-cord with the spirit displayed by the whole ])eople during those long years when they cari-ied on the struggle for freedom against such heavy odds. Tliat \\as tiuly a battle, .and was won, not through bloody strife, but by sore toil, and patient endurance amid sufferings and hardshi])s. No colony of the British Empire evei' recei\ed sticIi harsh and unnatural treat- ment from the Impeiial ^Mother. When Lord Salisbury described it in euphonious terms as having been "the sport of historic mis- fortunes,"' he would have been nearer the mark had he said "the victim of liistoric wrongs and cruelties." For a century and a lialf its peoitle were forbidden under heavy penalties to cultivate the soil or buihl houses, or do anything to make a home for themselves in tlie wilderness. They were left to the tender mercies of Fishing Admirals and Surrogates, and every means used to drive them from their adopted country. That they held their ground and tinally gained the victory, is proof siltilcient that there were among them many " Village Hamjidens"' who with " dauntless In'east" confronted tyranny and resisted the .oppressor. Even when by Imperial Treaties the 1 )est half of their island home was torn from them and virtually given over to the IIISTOKICAL SKETCH. 23 French, they did not despair, but made the best of circumstances and waited for the time when this wrong would be righted. Now that at last the colony is on the jmth of progress, is it not time that the great Mother of Colonies made some reparation for the wrongs of tlie- jjast, by holding out a helping hand to the oldest of her childi^en ? CHAPTER II. PHYSIOGRAPHY AND TOPOGRAPHY OF NEW- FOUNDLAND. GENERAI. OUTLINE. A larief account of the physical conditions of the island, its soil, climate, under-earth, configuration and relation to the neighbouring land-masses seems to lie desirable at the outset of any attempt to present an intelligilde picture of the country. GEOGKAPHICAI. POSITION. Its geographical position is unicpie and singularly important and commanding. Anchored at no great distance off tlie North Amei-ican Continent, and stretching right across the entrance of the Gulf of St. La^vrence, to which it affords access at botli its northern and southern extremities, it might l)e regarded as a jjlace of arms and defence ; for the power which possesses it holds the key of the St. Lawrence. Its south-western extremity is within sixty miles of Cape Breton, which is substantially the eastern point of Nova Scotia ; while its most eastern projection is but 1640 miles distant from Ireland. Tlius it is adapted by nature to serve the peaceful interests of commerce, and to iacili- tate intercourse between the Old World and the New, being a step])ing stone between them. DEEP BAYS. In another respect the hand of nature has marked the island as a centre of commercial activity. A glance at the map shows that its coasts are j^ic'icetl by numerous magnificent bays, run- ning in some instances eighty or ninety miles inland, and throw- ing out smaller ai-ms in all directions. lu these de p bays, whose entrances are sentinelled by jutting headlands, are some of the finest harbours in the world, as well as countless co\-es, creeks PHYSIOGRAPHY. 25 and minor inlets where the fishermen's craft find shelter. These great ■watery ravines, which in many instances expand into in- land .seas, hi'iiig with tliera the marvellous fish-wealth of the surrounding waters, and place it within reach of the fisherman's net and hook. At the same time they present unrivaled facili- ties for the transport of the products of the fisheries, as well as the riches of the mine and the forest, and the agricultural pro- ductions whicli human labour will yet develope. To .such an extent are the .shores indented that though the island is ahout a thousand miles round, measuring from headland to headland, its entire coast-line is double that extent of mileage. In fact it would be difficult to find anywhere an equal land-area presenting such an extent of frontage to the sea. COMPARATIVE SIZE. Size counts for a good deal, and in the long run must l*e a mea- sure of power. In regard to size it counts tenth among the islands of the globe. Its greatest breadth is 216 miles, and its greatest length the same ; its area is 42,000 square miles. We obtain the best idea of its extent by comparing it with other countries. It is almost equal to the Empire State of New York ; it is twice the size of Nova Scotia, and one-third larger than New Brunswick. Ireland contains 32,500 square miles, so that Newfoundland is one-sixth larger. It is three times as large as Holland and twice as large as Denmark. SHAPE -PENINSULA.S. In shape it is roughly triangular, having a wide southern base between Cape Race and Cape Ray and a long narrow apex to- wards the north. Three large peninsulas project from the main body of the island. The largest of these — the peninsula of Avalon — is almost severed from the 2:)rincipal portion of the island In the two large bay.s of Placentia and Trinity which are separated by a narrow isthmus, in one place but three miles in width. The Avalon peninsula is further divided by the two bays of St. Mary's and Conception. Owing to its extensive frontage on the Atlantic, its numerous harljours and its proximity to the 26 PHYSIOGRAPHY. best fishing grounds, Avalon is the most thickly populated and commercially important pai't of the island. The northern pen- insula — called Petite Nord by the French — runs up long and narrow, almost to Labrador, like the arm of a huge frying jiau. The smallest peninsula of the three projects southerly be- tween the bays of Placentia and Fortune. The little peninsula of Port-au-Port, off the west coast, may also be named. It is joined to the mainland by the Gravels, an isthmus not more than a quarter of a mile in width. COAST SCENEKY. The first sight of the coasts of Newfoundland impresses the traveller unfavourably. They are what is usually termed " iron- bound." To say that they are rocky describes them tamely. They might rather be designated one great wall of rock, now shooting up into peaks, now breaking into wild fissures, now pre- senting dark frowning cliffs, bold promontories and headlands sculptured into grim fantastic forms by the blows of Atlantic billows. Then come miles on miles of rocky ramparts from two to four hundred feet higli, grim, massive, awe-inspiring. Such is the aspect from the sea. But let the traveller enter one of the deej) fioids which at intervals cleave the rocky walls, and, if the season be summer, he will ere long, find himself amid varied scenes of beauty such as are rarely surpassed in the world's most favoured lands. The fiords of Newfoundland strikingly resemble those of Norway, to which tourists resort from all countries, and when known and made accessible to travellers, will prove not less attractive. Verdant islands, of all shapes an<l sizes, stud the bosom of the larger estuaries. Dark-green forests often sweep down to the water's edge. Fishing hamlets line the shore with their rough stages and " flakes" for drying the cod. The little fishing boats are dancing in groups on the bi-ight watci-s. The sky overhead is Idue as that of Italy, and the air lialmy and exhilerating. THE ISLAND AS A FISHING-CENTKE. The hand of nature lias marked the island as (me of the woidd's great fishing-centres. Not only do the arms of the Atlantic, riiYsioonAPiiY. 27 penetrating far inland, carry the tinny tribes almost to the doors of the iishernien, but at the distance of a degree from the shores is the greatest submarine island of the globe — the Grand Bank of Newfoundland, — which extends for a length of six hundred miles with a lireadlh of two hundred. This is the great capital of the cod-kingdoms, and its sub-marine valleys and hills are alive with countless colonies of this noble fish. Since the days of Cabot thousands of fishermen have been mining the silvery quarries of these inexhaustible seas. Then all around the shores of the island and of the great bays are countless smaller sub- marine elevations to which the cod-colonies resort, and which constitute the finest fishing grounds in the world. Vast shoals of the bait-fishes — caplin, squid, herring — follow each other in succession throughout the summer, furnishing food for the cod and drawing them shoreward. Winter and spring witness the migra- toiy visits of enormous shoals of the finest herrings to their fav- ourite resorts around the shores ; and salmon crowd the estuaries preparatory to their ascent of the rivers to " I'epeat the story of their Ijirth." This is not all. Labrador with its eleven hundred miles of coast fronting the Atlantic, is included in the jurisdic- tion of Newfoundland, and is the summer-resort of 20,000 of its fishermen. The climate of the island, with its cool winds and the absence of a liurning sun in summer, is most favourable for the cure and drying of fish ; while the land supplies abundant materials for shij) and boat-building, cooperage and all other fishery purposes. The harbours of the Avalon peninsula present the most favoural.>le points from which to carry on the seal fish- ery in spring, the value of which approaches at times a million dollars annually. MOUNTAIN AND HILI. RANGES. Passing now from the rugged coast-line to the outer interior of the island, we find a country whose general cliaracter is hilly, Init the eminences do not reach any great elevation. Further inlaml, the interior x>i'oper is found to be an elevated undulating plateau, traversed by ranges of low hills, the surface being diver- sified by valleys, woods, ponds and marshes. All the great hill- 28 PIIYSIOGKAPnY. ranges liave a N. N. E. and S. S. W. trend ; and all the other great phyt-ical features of the country, such as the bays, larger lakes and rivers and valleys, have a similar direction. Probahly this conformation has been shaped by glacial action during the Ice-Period. The most important range of mountains is the Long Range which commences at Cajie Raj', and runs in a continuous chain in a north-easterly direction for 200 miles, terminating in the Petit Nord peninsula. Some of its summits reach a height of 2,0u0 feet. Outside the Long Range but parallel to it, and nearer the west coast, is the Anguille Range, running from Cape Anguille to the highlands of Bay St. George, with summits 1,900 feet high ; and the Blomidons extending along the south coast of the Humber Arm, Bay of Islands, some of whose summits reach a height of 2,084 feet, l^eing the highest in the island. The Mid- dle Range stretches across the country from Fortune Bay to Notre Dame Bay. The Black River Range runs from Piper's Hole, Placentia Bay, to Clode Sound in Bonavista Bay. From one of its isolated peaks called Centre Hill, 1,081 feet high, may be seen in a clear day, the bays of Placentia, Fortiiue, Bonavista, Trinity and Conception, and 150 lakelets may be counted. The view is exceedingly fine. The Avalon Peninsula is traversed by an east- ern and western range. The former commences at Renews, on the eastesn coast, and extends for over twenty miles to Holyrood at the head of Conception Bay, having at each end a rounded hill named the " Butterpots," about 1,000 feet high. The westei-n Avalon range begins at St. Mary's Bay and terminates at Chapel Arm, Trinity Bay. Its principal summits are North-East Moun- tain, 1,200 feet, from which 67 lakes are visible. Spread Eagle Peak, Trinity Bay, and the Monument. Over the interior are distributed a number of isolated sharply peaked summits which spring abruptly from the great central plateau, and are very serviceable as landmarks in guiding the Indian or the siiortsman on their line of march. They bear the local name of Tolts. Some of the more conspicuous of these are Hodge's Hill, on the Exploits, (2,000 feet) ; Mount Peyton (1,670 feet), west end of Gander Lake ; Lobster House, Hind's Pond ; Mount Musgrave PHYSlOmtAPIIY. 20 Tliero are other minor ranges and detached hills, such as that running along the south shore of Conception Bay by Portugal Cove to CajDe St. Francis ; Sawyer's Hills south of Placentia ; South-side Hills running from Torbay to the Bay of Bulls, of which Signal Hill (520 feet) is a summit ; Branscombe's Hill, near St. Jolin's (870 feet) ; and Chisel Hill, St. Mary's Bay. Tliese numerous mountain and hill ranges show that the country has undergone many disturbances and dislocations of strata, dur- ing the geological ages. RIVERS. It is a common mistake to suppose that the island contains no large rivers. It is true that, compared with its size, large rivers are few, Init the want of these is amply compensated for by the numerous bays which pierce the land in all directions. One cause of the scarcity of large streams is the Ijroken hilly character of many portions of t!ie country. Down the small valleys flow the streams from tlie pond or set of ponds in their neighbour- hood, forming numerous brooks which thus find the nearest course to the sea. Still there are three large and important rivers — the Gander, the Exploits and the Humber — and a nundjer of others whose drainage and size fairly entitle them to be classed as rivers. EXPLOITS RIVER. The liighest land is on the west coast ; and the Long Eange chain forms there the watershed, causing most of the rivers to How north-easterly or easterly towards the east coast. The largest river is the Exploits which rises in the extreme south-western angle of the island near the .southern extremity of the Long Eange and after a course of more than 200 miles falls into Exploits Bay, in Notre Dame Bay. It drains an area of l;etween 3,000 and 4,000 square miles. At its month it is a mile wide and gradually nar- rows to an average of lialf a mile which it maintains for ten miles. For this distance from its mouth it is studded with islands, the largest being Tliwait Island, nine miles in lengtn. Fouiteen miles foom the mouth are Bishop's Falls, a succession of cascades, the total height being about twenty feet. Some twenty miles 30 PHYSIOGRAPHY. higher up the river the Grand Falls are met with, presenting one of the finest and most picturesque scenes in the island. Now that it is made accessible by the railway, it is sure to become a favourite resort of tourists. Seventy-two miles from the sea the river issues from Red Indian Lake which is itself 36 miles in length, its surface being 468 feet above the sea and its total area 69 square miles. This large river receives numerous tributaries, some of which from their size i-ank as rivers. It has long been famous tor its salmon. THE HUIVIBER. The next largest river is the Humber, which falls into the Humber Arm of the Bay of Islands, after draining an area of 2000 square miles. Its main branch rises 20 miles inland from Bonne Bay, and after a circuitous course of some 70 miles, it falls into Deer Lake, which is fifteen miles in length, and from thence it flows majestically to the sea through magnificent scenery. The Gander, the third of the large rivers, is 100 miles in length, and after flowing through Gander Lake, 36 miles long, it falls into Hamilton Sound. With its tributaries it drains an area of nearly 4,000 square miles. GAIklBO AND TKBKA NOVA. The Gambo is a small river flowing from Gambo Pond. Terra Nova is a considerable stream noted for its rapids, falling into Bonavista Bay. Rocky Rivar takes its rise in Hodge Water, a large lake in the peninsula of Avalon, and falls into the Colinet Arm of St. Mary's Bay. The scenery at Rocky River bridge and along the river's course from that point to the sea is unsurpassed. Colinet River falls into St. Mary's Bay. Numerous rivers discharge their waters on the southern coast, Ijut having short courses they rush in turbulent torrents to the sea. The principal of them are Bay-d'-Est River, Bay-de-North, White Bear and La Poile Rivers. Many of them make a fall of 1200 feet in a distance of 20 miles. CODROY BIVEKS. On the west coast the principal rivers are the Codroy, which rises in the Long Riinge, and after flowing through a feitile valley riiYsioGiiAriiY. 31 ot" the same name, falls into iLe Gulf of St. Lawrence ; the River St. Geoi'gc and Harry's Brook I'all into Bay St. George. LAKES AND PONDS. One of the niof^t remarkable of the physical features of the island is the immense number of its lakes and ponds. They aie so numerous that ■were the island mapped out in detail, more than one-third of the whole surface would be represented by water. They are found in every possible position — -in the mountain gorges ; in the de[)ressions between the low hills ; in the valleys ; and frequently in hollows near the tops of the highest eminences. They are of all sizes, from tiny j^ools and lakelets to sheets of water nearly sixty miles in length. In many districts they form a very beautiful feature of the landscape. From the tops of some of the highest hills, fi'om fifty to one lum- dred and fifty lakes and ponds may be counted. These bright gems dotting the expanse of country, are generally over-hung with dense woods. It is generally believed among geologists that they are relics of the Ice Age, and were scooped out by glaciers when the island was loaded with its ice-mantle of two or three thousand feet in thickness. GRAND LAKE. The largest lake in the island is Grand Lake, iifty-six miles in length and five in bi'eadth, with an area of nearly two thousand s(juare miles. Its surface is but fifty feet above the sea-level, while at its deepest portion the bottom is more than three hundred feet Ijelow the level of the sea. Many brooks emj)ty into it, but it has only one outlet — Junction Brook, which joins the Humber. Its south-western extremitj^ bears about north- east from the head of St. George's Bay, from which it is distant about fifteen miles. It coiitains an island 22 miles long and four to five miles in breadth. Its shores are densely wooded, arrd its scenery at many points very beautiful. RED INDIAN LAKE. Red Indian Lake, thi-ough which the River Exploits flow?, is 37 miles in length, with an area of 64 square miles. Around its 32 pHYsioaRArnv shores are forests of fine timber indicative oC a I'ertile soil. Gander Lake is 33 miles in length, and covers an area of 44 square miles. Its hanks, and those of the Gander Elver -whicli flows througli it, present immense tracts of the finest agricultural and timber lands in the island. Deer Lake, through ^vhich the Humber Hows, is 15 miles in length, and has an area of 24 square miles. The land around it is fertile in the highest degree. Sandy Lake, Victoria, Hind's, Terra Nova and George Fouith Lakes range next in size. SOLITUDES INVADED. Tlie shores of these great lakes, and the valleys through which these large rivers flow, are still absolute solitudes, except where recently the lumbermen's camps have invaded them. Their pine forests have been left to rot or perish by fire, and the fertile soil, Mdiich might sustain thousands of people in comfort, is un- touched by plough or spade. All is primitive wilderness. This is, to some extent, accounted for by the fact that, until a com- paratively recent date, the very existence of fertile lands in the interior, or of forest-growths of any value or extent, or of metallic or non-metallic minerals in the rocks, was unknown, and by many was questioned or vehemently denied. Xow that the great re- volutionist, the railway, has obtained an entrance, all this will be gradually changed ; the wastes will be occupied, and human industry will make them " blossom like the rose." GEOLOGY OF NEWFOUNDLAND. The Geological Survey of the island, which was commenced in 1864 under the late Alexander Murray, C. M. G., F. G. S., and is still continued by Mr. James Howley, F. G. S., constituted a new epoch in tiie history of the country. To it we are largely in- debted for trustworthy information regarding the agricultural and mineral resources and the forest wealth of the island, wliich is slowly but surely revolutionizing people's views on these j^oints and has led to the introduction of the railway system, and the application of capital and enterprise to a moderate extent, to the development of its great natural cajmbilities. While the survey has been conducted on strictly scientific principles in working TOPOGKAPIIICAL. 33 out the distribution of the various rock i'orniatious and delineating these on maps, as tlie essential preliminary step, it aimed from the outset at the economic application of geological research and the realization of practical results. TOPOGKAPHICAL 8UKA EY. In such a country, much of wliich was unknown, a topographical survey was found to be indispensable, in order to construct a cor- rect map upon which to delineate the boundaries of the geological formations, and other\\-ise represent the structural details. This topographical survey whicli was combined with the geological, led Mr. Murray and Mr. Howley to scale the principal water courses, keeping up a connected system of triangulation from all the most consj^icuous heights, and thus on their map the whole of the great features of the island were accurately laid down. In carrying out this work, the officers of the survey were led to ex- amine the surface of the country — the character and extent of its fertile belts — its forests and extent and position of its minei-al bearing rocks an<l its coal beds. Their annual reports dwelt largely on these, and helped to disabuse men's minds of the erroneous ideas previously entertained, and to convince them that the natural resources of the country awaiting development were very great. An important impulse was thus given to mining, by the information furnished regarding the position, character and extent of the various mineral bearing formations. But above all, the discovery as the survey advanced of vast areas of excellent arable and grazing lands, especially in the vallej'^s of the large rivers, and the existence of extensive forests of pine and other valuable timber, furnished abundant warrant for the con- struction of railways in various directions. Thus the geological survey proved to be of great and lasting benefit to the colony. It is not the province of the geologist to search for or discover mineral deposits or to engage in mining, but so to direct his study of the structure and composition of the rocks as to facilitate the extraction of useful minerals from the earth by those who are practically engaged in mining industry, and to be able to indicate where metallic and non-metallic minerals may be searched for 34 TOPOGKAPlllCAL. with the greate^:t probaljility of ^^uccl'ss. This object has Ijeen steadily kept in view in connection with the geological survey. COAL, BKDS AND MINERALS. In jjoint of fact two things were especially aimed at. One of these was to determine whether a continuation of the rich coal deposits of Sydney, in the island of Cape Breton, might be search- ed for with a prol^ability of success, in the carboniferous ai-eas of Newfoundland, along the shores opposite the coal-bearing strata of Cape Breton. As there was a general analogy in the character of the measures on the opposite sides of the waters dividing them, it was for the geologists to determine whether the attitude of the strata in Newfoundland warianted tlie expectation ot finding there coal beds that would be commercially valuable. The other important point to be kept in view v.-as to determine to what extent the metalliferous zone of North America was developed in Newfoundland. This is called in Canadian geology the Quebec group, its middle division, the Lauzon group, Ijeing lich in metalliferous deposits all over North America. It was, therefore, of primary import to find whether there was a spread of this for- mation in the island and to what extent, as its importance as a mining region would depend on this. To what extent both these enquiries have been determined will be more fidly seen wdien the mineral resources of the colony come to be described. At present it is enough to say that all the ancient rock systems between the Lower Laurentian and the coal measures are more or less represented at one part or another of the island. LAURKNTIAN SYSTEM. The Laurentian system has an immense sjiread in the island. It constitutes the principal mountain ranges, coming to the sur- face through the moi'e recent dei")osits, or Ijrought up by great dislocations. The Laurentian gneiss of the Long Range, on the western side of the island, extends in nearly a straight course from Cape Ray to the head waters of the Castor on the great northern iieninsula, whose central portion is Laurentian. These rocks occupy the coast from Cape Ray to La Poile and spread TOPOGRAPHICAL. 35 over a wide expanse of country between Grand Lake, the Humber and Exploits rivervS, In fact it may be safely affirmed that more than half the island is Laurentian. HURONIAN KOCKS. Three-fourths of the great Peninsula of Avalon are Huronian (equivalent to the Cambrian of English geologists). The Hu- ronian consists mainly of a set of slates with conglomerate bands. The city of St. John's, and in fact nearly all the settlements be- tween Fortune Bay on the soutli, and Bonavista Bay on the east, are built upon this formation. SILURIAN ROCKS. The Lower Silurian rocks have a large develoyment and it is in. these that the metallic oi-es occur which seem destined to ren- der the island a great mining centre. The Lauzon division of the Queljec gioup, which is included in the Silurian, has an im- mense spread in the island. It consists of serpentine rocks, associated with dolomites, diorites, etc. As in other jmrts of North America, it gives evidence in Newfoundland of being more or less rich in metallic ores; and hence the strong proba- bility that many portions of the island will become important mining centres. The middle Silurian division of rocks is also widely spread ; and the most fertile belts of land and the most valuable forests are nearly all situated on the jjortion of the country occupied by this formation. The valleys of the Exploits, Gander and several smaller tracts, which contain arable lands, belong to the middle Silurian foi'mation. CAKBOMFEKOUS. The Carboniferous series, in wliich the coal-beds are to be found, occupies a large area on the western side of the island, in the neighbourhood of St. George's Bay and Grand Lake ; and also along the \ alley ot the Hunil)er and around the shores of Deer Lake. Tlie l)est land rests upon the, rocks of this for- mation. 36 CLIMATE. VERDICT OF GEOLOGY. The verdict of geology then is that Newfoundland is a country adapted to sustain a large population engaged in a great variety of pursuits— farming, lumbering, shipbuilding, mining and manu- facturing. Wlien to this we add the fish-wealth of the surround- ing seas, on which the present population of 200,000 are mainly dependent, we must form a high estimate of the natural capabili- ties ot an island which lias been so long unknown or rather mis-known. For the development of those yet dormant resources there is a robust race of people who have served a rough appi'en- tieeship of toil and danger amid the billows- -men of bone and muscle, whose lives are mainly passed in the ojien air in a Avhole- some bracing climate, and whose habits of life are sinijde. They need but some Moses to lead them, not out or, Init into the wilderness to fell the giants of the forest, to drain the marsh and swamp, to drag up the treasures of the mine and to make the valleys wa\"e witli a golden harvest. CLIMATE. Erroneous ideas regarding the climate of Newfoundland are quite as prevalent as the delusions in reference to its soil and natural products. The bulk of outsiders still fancy that the island is enveloped in almost i^erpetual fogs in summer, and given over to intense cold and a succession of snow storms in winter. It is true that it partakes of the general character of the North American climate, and is therefore much colder than lands in the same latitude in the Old World. Its latitude cor- responds to that of France, but its climate is very different. Still in the American sense of the word, it is liy no means a cold country. Winter sets in, as a rule, in the beginning of December and lasts till the end of Marcli or tlie middle ef April. During this time a snow-mantle of greater or less depth, usually coveis the ground, but the frost is occasionally broken by southerly winds and bright wai-m days, and much of the snow is melted. Then the wind changes, and fre.-h falls df snow are experienced. During the winter there are at tinuv; heavy gales of wind, and severe suow-stoinis. These, howevei', do not cjccur often nr last CLIMATE. 37 long. Winter is the season of social enjoyments of all kinds, and is far from being unpleasant. Nothing can bo more exhi- lerating than the bracin;,' air of a fine wintei''s day, with the hard crisp snow under feet and a bright sun over head. The musical tinkle of the sleigh-bells when driving over the frozen snow, and the purity of the atmosphere add to the charms of the scene. The snow jDreserves the ground from the infiuonce of the frosts, and in April when it melts, the fitdds soon become fit for the operations of the farmer. It is true tlie spring is late, owing to the chilling influence of the Arctic current which washes the eastern coast, and often •' Wiuter lingering chills the lap of May." But once vegetation sets in it progresses with marvellous rapidity, and crops grow and ripen much quicker than in the eastern hemisjjhere. The frosts of winter too, aid the operations of the husbandman and hel]) to pulverise the soil. The destructive tornados and cyclones which often spread havoc in certain portions of the North American continent are unknown in Newfoiuullaml ; "Idizzards" are rare, and the Anieriean "cloud burst" is never experienced. SILVKB THAW. There is one curious winter phenomenon which is often wit- nessed — called here " silver thaw." When rain falls with a low- state of the thermometer near the earth, it is congealed as it de- scends, and thus a regular disposition of ice takes place on the branches and smallest twigs of trees and shrubs. The layer of ice goes on increasing till it attain-; a thickness of half an inch or more. A magical transformation is wrought. The trees are hung with glittering jewels, even the smallest twigs being loaded and the branches lient to the earth. When the sun shines a scene of dreamlike splendour is presented. Each tree has the appearance of a great chandelier of crystal, tlie play of the sunbeams on myraids of prisms producing a ilazzling effect. The weight of the icy jewellry often breaks the thickest branches. Sometimes the w'ind rises suddenly and uidoads the jewelled trees, and " like the Ijaseless fal)ric of a vision " the whole vanishes. Sg CLIMATE. AUKOKAS. Another natural phenomenon witnessed often in perfection in winter is the aurora borealis. The play of these northern lights oeeasionally presents a magnificent sight. The wliole heavens are lighted uj^ witli the brilliant display, and huge curtains of all hues seem to wave over the vast concave. In winter the thermometer rarely .sinks below zero, and then only for a few hours and but a few degrees. Once in thirty or forty years an exceptionally severe winter is experienced — such as that of 1893-94 — when the thermometer repeatedly reached ten or even fifteen below zero, and, in the more nortliern and exposed places, as low as tliirty-four. This, however, is very rare and of short duration ; usually, open fire-places are suffi- cient to heat tlie houses, only model ately heavy clothing is needed, and open-air exercise is throughout attainal)le. NEWFOUNDLAND SUMMERS. Tlie summer temperature ranges from seventy to eighty de- grees, not often exceeding tlie latter figure. Tlie extreme heats and colds of Canada and tlie United States are unknown. A fine summer's day in Newfoundland is delightful. The heat is never o^jpressive ; the nights are always cool, and the breezes are balmy and invigorating. From the middle of .June till the middle of September is the true summer, and usually fine weather is experienced, though the changes are at times sudden ; and, of course, there are, as in all countries, imfavourable sum- mers. The robust and healthy ai)pearance of the jieople. their fair complexions, and the numerous instances in which an ex- treme old age is reached, all testify that the climate is salubrious in the highest degree. Malaria is entirely' unknown. FOGS PAKTI AL. The fogs which have given the country such an undesirable reputation are confiued to the south and south-eastern portion of tlie island. Enormous masses of \apour are generated on the Banks,. which are at a consideiable distauee from the shores of the island, by the mixing there of the heated waters of the Gulf CLIMATE. o9 Stream with tlie Arctic curront. When (southerly or south- westerly winds blow the fog is rolled in on the south-eastern and southern shores of the island, covering the bays and head- lands with a thick curtain of vapour. It rarely penetrates far inland ; so that while these coasts are shrouded in dense fog, the sun is sliining brightly inland, and the atmosphere is dry and balmy. With southerly winds the great bays on the southern coast be2onie receptacles of the sea-fog. It often tills Placen- tia Bay and drifts over the narrow isthmus into Trinity Bay, while Conception Bay is comparatively clear. Thus the fogs are partial in their intluence. On the western shore, after passing Cape Ray, fogs are almost unknown. The same holds good of the northern and eastern coasts as far south as Bonavista. The summer months in tlie interior may often be spent without ex- periencing a genuine foggy day. However gloomy and disagree- abie these sea-fogs may be, it must be rememl)ered they are not prejudicial to health. The Gulf Stream which generates them modifies the cold, so that the climate is more temperate and wholesome than that of the neighbouring continent. The mean annual temperature for eight years was 41.2 degs. ; the average height of the barometer was 29.37 inches. It is not ditticult to account for the erroneous ideas prevalent regarding the climate of the Islaml. The climate of the Banks, which are over one hundred miles distant from the shores, and of the southern and south-eastern seaboard, which are affected by the sea-fogs, has been taken l)v voyagers and casual visitors as indicative of the climate of the whole Island. Hence, it has been concluded that the coxintry is enveloped in almost per- petual fogs in sunnner ; and, on the other hand, an impression has grown up that it is given over to intense cold and a succes- sion of siiow-.-torms in winter. It may be desiralde, therefore, to cite the opinions of a few intelligent persons who, from exjierience, have lieen enaVjled to form an estimate of the general character of the climate, in ovdvv to arrive at the truth. Sir Richard Bonnycastle, who spent some veai'.- in tlie country, in his excellent woi'k on Xew- 40 CLIMATE. Joimdknd (1842), says; "We find that tlie oxtioiiiui ;;t tern- pemtiire in Newfoundland are trifling i-onipared Avitli those of Canada. There the thermometer falls as low as twenty-seven degrees below zero, and even lower at times, in winter, and rises to ninety in summer. Here (in Newfoundland) the lowest temperature in winter scarcely exceeds zero, or eight or ten de- grees below it, excepting upon rare occasions ; and in the height of summer does not attain more, in common years, than seventy- nine degrees. Winter ma} really be said to commence here towards the latter end of November only, though fire:, are comfortable adjuncts during most of that month ; and its seve- rity begins after Christmas, runs through January and February, and becomes less and less stern until the middle of April, when it ceases altogether. In the winter of 1840 ploughing was going on after Christmas." " It is generally supposed in England that N(;wlnundland is constantly enveloped in fog and wet mi.^t ; nothing, lio-,veve]', could be farther from the truth. The summers are fre(piently so hot and dry that for v«-ant of rain the grass perishes — the summer of 1840 was one of these — and the nights are unusually splendid ; whilst in winter fog is very rarely seen." He kept a register in regard to foggy days, from ^\■hic■h it ap- peared that in 1841 there were only seventeen and a half days of thick fog in St. John's, " which is moi'e exposed to the Bank weather, as it is called, than any other part of the Island " ; and light fogs Mere prevalent only nineteen and a half days ; giving thirty-seven days of foggy weather on the shore throughout the year. He remarks further on the light clothing with which the laljouring classes went al)out in winter, and on llicir roliust appearance, and ])i-onounces the climate salubrion- in tlic highest degree. The Right Rev. Dr. Mullock, formerly Roman Catholic Bishop of the island, in one of his lectures, says : " We never have the tlu'niKiiiicter down to /cro, uidess once or twice in llic yeai', and then only i'or a few hours and for a k'W degrees, three, foiu' or ])erha]is tv\i ; while we hear of a tenijicratuie of li'u and twenty CLIMATE. 41 below zero in Canada and New Brunswick ; and tliis life- destroying cold continuing for days, perliaj).-^ weeks. Tlien see another effect of tliis — the Canadians and other North Americans of the same latitude are obliged to keep nj) liot stoves almost continually in their houses, while we have open fireplaces, or at most Franklins ; our children, I may say, are lightly clad as in summer, spend a large portion of their time in the open air ; and thus while onr neighbours have the sallow liue of confinement tinging their clieeks, and their children look com- paratively pale, our youngsters are blooming witli the losy luie of health, developing their eneigies l)y air and exercise, and pre- paring themselves for the battle of life hereafter, either as hardy mariners or healthy matrons — tlie blooming mothers of a power- ful race." "The mean temperature of 1859 was 44 ilegrees." Sir Steidien Hill, wlio was Governor of the island for six years, says: "The climate of Newfoundlaml is exceedingly healthy, The robust and liealtliy appearance of tlie people, and the ad- vanced age to whicli many of them attain, testify to the purity anil excellence of the air which they inhale aval the invigorating (pialities of the breezes of British North America." Alexander Murray, C. M. G., Geological Surveyor, who spent eighteen years in the island, traversing it in all directions, saj's : "The climate of Newfoundland is, as compared with the neigh- l)ouring continent, a moderately temperate one. The heat is far less intense, on an average, during tlie summer, than in any jjart of Canada, and the extreme cold of winter is muidi less severe. The thermometer rarely indicates higher than seventy degrees Fah., in the former, or much below zero in the latter ; although the cold is occasionally aggravated by storms and the humidity consequent on an insular position. The climate is undoubtedly a very healthy one, and the general physi([ue of the natives, who are a ]>owerfully-built, robust and hardy race, is a good example of its intiuence." The climate of St. John's, it .-liould 1 e reiiiL-uiliered, is not a fair standard by which to judge of the whole island. It is on the most eastern pt)int in the peninsula of Avalon, and therefore 42 CLIMATE. most exposed to the chilling influence of the Arctic Current. At the heads of the gi'eat bays, in the interior of the island, especi- ally in the sheltered valleys, and on the west coast, the climate is much Avarmei- than at St. John's. In St. George's Bay the mean annual temperature for the year is 43-8 degrees ; that of Toronto is 44-3 degrees. Mr. Howley, the present head of the Geological Survey, in one of his reports says : " I myself spent four months during the past season in the interior without experiencing a genuine foggv day, until reaching witliin twenty miles of the southern side of tlie island. During tlu' entire months of July and August, the weather in tlie interior was delightful, while logs prevailed at the same time along the southern shore." The railway surveyors who have been engaged during tlie lasr two years in locating the new railway, all speak in glowing teiins of the deliglitfid climate of the interior in summer, and its free- dom I'mni foLis. CHAPTER III. ROADS AND RAILWAYS IN NEWFOUNDLAND. I^' iiu otlu^' country lias tlie material and social advaiLceiiient of the people been so seriously retarded Ijy the want of roads as in Newfoundland. Tlie original settlement of the island took jdace entirely in connection with the fisheries. The gathering in of the sea-harvest was the onh' industry contemplated or attemjjted. Around the shores fishermen, chieHy from England and Ireland, collected at first in hamlets and small villages, situated in such localities as were found best adapted for catch- ing, drying and shijiping fi.sh. These, as they multiplied and the population increased, were dotted around the shores of the great bays, or wherever there was a sheltered inlet where fish could be landed and the fisherman's stage and hut erected. Sprinkled thus along an extensive seadjoard, tliey were generally widely apart from each other, and intercourse was maintained mainly or entirely by sea oi by rude paths through the woods between neighbouring settlements. BAD LAWS. Had the clearing and cultivation of the soil been combined with fishing, the construction of roads would have become a necessity ; but the unhappy policy adopted by the Imperial Government, at the prompting of the English capitalists who carried on the fishei'ies, effectually prevented colonization. The policy was to keep the island solely as a fishing station in order to train seamen for the British navy. All grants of land were pro- hibited, the cultivation of the soil made a penal oflfence, and a vigorous attempt was carried on for a long period to remler the fishery migratory by carrying home the fishermen at the close of each season to return the following summer. SLOW PROGRKSS UNDER DIFFICULTIKS. In .->pite of these stupid, selfish laws the resident population in the fishing villages continued to increase and in many instances 44 liOADS AND RAILWAYS. tliuse givw into small towns. St. Jolnvs in particular made great strides. The laws, however, against the cultivation of the soil, and the erection of dMolling houses, were enforced up to the be- ginning of the present centmy. In 1790 one of the Governors 2)ublicly announced that he "was directed not to allow any possession as private property to l^e taken or any right of private projjerty ^vhatever, -to Ise acknowledged in any land whatever which is not actually employed in the fishery in the terms of the Act, 10 and 11 William III." In 1799, Governor Waldegrave ordered fences which had been erected enclosing a 2jiece of ground to be torn down, and jirohiliited chimneys even in the tenqjorary sheds. The people were thus confined to the sea- margin, in small isolated settlements, the only inter-communi- cation being by sea. Though the progress of the Colony was thus seriously retarded, still the hardy pioneers held their ground and increased in nuudjers, thus proving that there were among them men of the right stamp for building up a new com- munity — men of moral worth and force of character, who saw in the midst of their rough surroundings that here was a spot which might one day be made into a desii'alile home for themselves and their children. THK I>AWN. A liettcr day at length dawned. Tlie foolish and cruel laws were relaxed, and in 1813 grants of lands to settlers were for the liist time permitted. Agriculture on a small scale immediately commenced around each settlement. Those who Avere interested in keeping the country unsettled had all along sedulously incul- cated the lielief that both in regard to climate and soil the island was wholly unsuited to agriculture. This view was speedily disproved when restrictions were removed, but to this ilay is not wholly eradicated. A NEW ERA— ROAD MAKING. It was soon found that no pi'ogress could be made in the culti- vation of the soil till roads were constructed. The year 1825 \\-a.> rendeied lueinortible by the coustructiuu of the tirst road, kOADS AXJ» I'vAILAVAYS. 45 nine miles in lengtli, iVuni St. John's to Portugal Cove, on the southern shore of Conception Bay. On the opposite shore of this bay Avere the thriving towns of Harbour Grace, Caibonear and Brigus, the centres of a considerable population. By establish- ing a regular system of boats to cross this bay, carrying mail* and passengers, a route was established Ity which nearly half the population then living in the country were provided with a rough means of comuiunication. To Sir Thomas Cochi-ane, Governoi-, belongs the honour of introducing this essential step in civiliza- tion. He also constructed a road to Torbay, a village north of St. John's ; and a third along a beautiful valley through which Hows a small stream falling into St. John's harbour, to a spot now called Waterford Bridge. This beginning of road-making took place only 69 years ago, liut the progress made since has been remarkable. Year after year roads radiating from St. John's in several directions were built, along which farms and neat farm-houses soon became visible. One of these roads ex- tended first to Topsail on Conception Bay, thence to Holyrood at the head of the bay, and onward to Salnionier, St. Mary's and Placentia. Efforts were made by the more distant settlements to connect themselves with each other by roads, though often of a very rcngli description, and to establish means of connnunica- tion with the capital. When Representative Government was established in 1832, an annual grant Avas voted for making and repairing roads and bridges ; and of late years over 0150,000 per annum, have been devoted to this purpose. The Great Northern Mail road, for establishing communication with the people of the northern bays, was projected and commenced. At present there are about 1,000 miles of postal roads, and over 2,000 miles of district roads. THOUGHT WIDKXING. Road-making, witliout wliich no country can advance or make progress in other arts or in social life, though of late introduc- tion, has had a most important civilizing influence in this Colony. Still these roads only connected the fishing towns and settle- ments on the coast, and hail little effect in opening up the good 46 KOADS AND KAILWAYS. lands of tlie interior for colonization or in developing the natural resources of the Island. As the })eople inci eased in nundjers and tlieir views and asjtirations hegau to widen, the question presented itself : Were tliey doomed to cling fore^•er to the rocky shores and content themselves with a jirecarious sub- sistence derived from the stormy dee]) ? Was -it not possible to turn to some profitable account their huge territory of 42,000 square miles, and not leave it furever to the bears tlie wolves, and the deer ? Must the inteiior remain furevei' an unpeopled solitude where so many of the population were finding the pro- ducts of the fisheries inadequate to give tliem daily bread ? If it be true, as so many have reported, that there are in the in- terior noble forests, rich mineral deposits and fertile lauds, must these all remain as nature has place<l them and be turned to no human use ? DOUBTERS AND SCOFFERS. Still there were inany who doubted or denied the existence of any such natural resources in tlie interior, and clung to the old belief that nothing was to be found but alternations of b(jgs, rocks and swamps, with little if any forest growths or lands fit foi' settlement. As to minerals, they scoifed at all reports of their existence as mere fables, propagated Ijy wild enthusiasts or designing imposters. ANOTHER GREAT STRIDE-GEOLOGICAIi SURVEY. Happily there was sufficient faith among men of intelligence in the resources of the country to secure the organization of a Geological Survey in 18G4. Sir William Logan, the eminent Cteologist of Canada, was applied to, and he nominated Mr. Alexander Murray, who had been his assistant for twenty years, to take charge of the work. He prosecuted the survey Avith commendable zeal and energy for over twenty years, and it has been continued by his able assistant, Mr. J as. Howley, till the present time. Noav, for the first time, the resources and caj)- abilities of this neglected and misrepresented country Avere ex- amined and reported on by competent scientific men whose KOAbS AND RAILWAYS. 47 statements -wei'e thorouglily reliaMe. The le.-jiilt.s exceedeil the ex])ectati'jns of the most hopeful. Mr. MiUTay'.s reports, puL- lislied year after year, sliowed that thi- inlerioi' contained exten- sive pine fore-'ts of exeelh'ut timber ; fertile valleys, in which many thousands might lind a home ; a carhoniferons region con- taining large coal-beds and mineral tracts, -which the labours of many generations were not likely to exhaust. His survey slioweil that on the "West Coast there were 1,320 stpuire miles ot fertile lands admirably adapteil for settlement, and in the valleys of the Exploits, ( Jambo, Terra Nova and Gaudier, 3,320 square miles fitted for agricultural operations or cattle-raising — much of these regions being covered with valuable forests of pine, birch, and other trees — in all, nearly three million acres of land well fitted for settlement. He further found that the Island presented large developments of the " (ihiebec GroujV' which is the great nietaliferous formation of North America, and therefore might be expected to be found ) ich in minerals — a pre- diction which has been amply verified. It couhl no longer be doubted that Newfoundland presented a promising field for mining enterprises or for extensi\e lumltering operations, or that its reclaimable land would sustain in comfort a very large population. UISCOVIillY or anNEKALS. So far as the statements in the reports regarding the mineral resources were concerned they were speedily continued by actual discoveries. The first discovery of copper ore was made by Mr. Smith McKay, an enteriuisiug explorer, at Tilt Cove, on the North-eastern shore of the Islund, in 1857. It was not worked till 1864. At the close of 1879 this mine had yielded 50,000 tons of coi)per ore, valued at 5'1,.')72,154, and nickel ore worth <^32,740. At the present time the working of this valuable mine continues and several hundred miners are employed. PROGRESS OF MINING. In 1875 Belt's Cove mine, a dozen miles further south, was opened, and up to 1879 had yiidded ore to the value of $•2,982,- 836. Little Bay mine followed in 1878, and proved to bu still 48 If ADS A^■i) ilAIIAVAVS. luoi'e }ii'oiluctivL-, lliL' workings being continued till about a year ago. At the close ol' 187i) it was found that the total ^■alue ot the ove exjiovted from the various mines had reached the amount of r^'4,G29,889. The work has gone on up the present time with successful i-e>ults. In 1892 tlie value of the ore exjtorted ac- cording to the Customs' Iveturns was .^1,006,592. It must further lie considered that mining operations have hitlierto been mainly confined to the shores of Notre Dame Bay. The in- terior, now to be opened up by railways, is still untouched, and may be expected to prove rich in minerals. I'KOSPKCTS OF MINING. Tlius science is pointing out Newfoundland as likely to lie- come one of the copper-bearing regions of the world has been confirmed by actual experiment. It presents a, wide develop- ment of that metalifei'ous zone M'hich in other North American countries has yielded abundance of valuable mineials. The area of the serpentine rocks, in connection with which all the cojjper ore hitherto has been found, is estimated by Mr. J. Howley, Geo- logist, at 5,097 scpiare miles. There is reason to believe that this serpentine formation runs across tlie island, and in the yet unex- plored interior it may come to the light in many places. A KAIIAVAY LOOMING DIMLY. After being thus a mere fishing station for some 250 years, without farms or roads, the fringe around the coast began to be intersected with roads, and the cultivation of the soil made some progress. Then followed the revelations of the Geological Sur- vey, which could not lie disputed, and were confirmed in many points liy the Avorking of the copper mines, by which wealth began to be poured into the country ; and also by the introdiic- tion of lumbering establishments along the larger rivers. Wider views regarding the destinies of the country began to lie enter- tained among those ■who were; at the head of afi'airs. The neces- sity of ]iioviding other means of sustaining the population than the fisheries liad Ijeen felt for some time. TJie population was rapidly increasing, while their mainstay— the lisheries^showed HUADS AM) UAIIAVAYS. 4^ uiimistiikalik- syiiiptuiu.s of (lecliiiu, or, id best, were precarious. The idea ol' a railway began to Hoat dimly befoi'e tlie iiiiuds of some of tlie more tliouglitful, but was at first spoken of with bated breath lest its ailvocacy might expose the bold innovators to the snsjticion of insanity. By the great mass of the people the project of liuilding a railway was at first regarded as utterly beyond the means of the colony. Short-sighted people declared it wouhl bring no returns and would speedily involve the country in bankruptcy. The opponents of i)rogress and change I'egarded it witli liui'ror. FLEMING'S PKOJECT. A proposal made liy Mr. Sandford Fleming, who was then Engineer-in-chief of Canadian railways, hel[ied to fannliarize the puljlic mind with the idea of a railway across Newfound- lanil. This eminent engineer puldished a paper in whicii he pointed out tliat the shortest and safest tra\-el-route ))et\veen America and England was across Xewfoumlland. He suggested a fast line of steamers from A\ilentia, Ireland, to St. John's, N.F., carrying only j>assengers, mails and light express matter. Thence he pro])Osed to Iniild a railway across the islan<l to St. George's Bay, where another line of swift steamers would ply to Shippe- gan, in the Bay of Chaleur, where connection with American railways would be obtained. He calculated that],by this route the ocean passage would not exceed four days, and that passengers from London woidd reach New York in seven days. It was a bold 2'1'oject, but founded on careful calculations. The NeM- foumlland Legislature voted a sum of money for a preliminary survey of the line, which was carried out in 1875 under Mr. Fleming's direction. It was found that tliere were no serious engineering difficulties in the way, and tliat the line could be constructed at a modeiate cost. THK FIRST IIAILAVAY PKOJliCTED. Two years elapsed lielore any further steps ■\\ere taken. At length, in 1878, Sir William ^^'hiteway, Premier of the Colony, to Avlioiu belongs the high honour of not uuly introducing the 50 i;OAI)S A^T> liAILAVAYS. railway system in the face of strong oppo.sitioii, but of persever- ingly carrying it out for more than fourteen year-s, as a prominent feature of liis jiolicy, undertook to grajijjle with the matter in earnest. His first jjrojjosal -was, in following the lines laid down liy Mr. Fleming, to offer an annual subsidy of £120,000 and liberal land grants along the line to any company that would construct and operate a line of raihvay across the island to be connected Ijy steamers with England on the one side and on the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on tlie other, with Canadian railways. The Imperial Goveinmeut, however, refused to sanction this project on the ground that it might be regarded by the French as an infringement of their fishing rights which wei-e secured by treaty on the west coast where its terminus would be. The project, therefore, had to be abandoned. THK HALL'S BAY LINE. Two more years elapsed, and Sir William Whiteway, finding that the project of constructing a line across the island which woulil be a link in tlie chain of comnumicatton between tlje Ohl and the New Worlds, could not then Ije carried out, decided on building a narrow-guage railway suited to local recpiirements, and such as the Colony itself could undertake. The resolutions which lie submitted to the House of Assembly projwsed the construction of a railway from St. John's to Hall's Bay, the centre of the mining region, with bi'anches to Harbour Grace and Brigus, the total length of which \\ould be about 340 nnles. Such a line would o])en up for settlement large areas of good lands and valuable and extensive timber district's in the valleys of the Gambo, Terra Nova, Gander and Exploits, ami by con- necting the mining region with the capital, would impart a great impetus to mining industry and give access to new mineral lands as yet unexjilored. REPORT OF PAKLIAMENTARY COMMITTEE. A joint-committee of Ijoth Ijranches of the Legislature was ajjpointed to consider the proposal. Their report was strongly in favour of such an enterjnise. It pointed out the necessity of ROADS AND RAILWAYS. 51 opening up new iudiistiie-; for the cni]>loyniont of the increasing l»opuhvtion, for wliose sujiport the fislieries were now inradeqnate. It referred to the mineral wealth and tlie great extent of fertile lands which the Geological Survey of the island had made known ; to the large importations of agricultural produce and live stock, almost all of which could be raised in the country ; to the advantages the island possessed as a grazing country, and the facilities of exporting live stock to England ; and to the benefits that would flow fiom the remunerative employment i'urnished to tlie people by tlie construction of a railway. It concluded by recommending tlie passing of an Act authoiizing a loan of the amount required to construct tlie line within the limits of one million pounds sterling, and in sums not exceeding half a n^illion of dollars in any one year. Tliis report was adopted Ijy the Legisl.iture l)y an overwhelming majority of botli blanches. Railway tVimniissioneis were ajipointed and Engineers were omployL-d in the summer and autumn of 1880 iu making a pre- liminary survey of tlie southern portion of the ])i-o])0.-ed line. FIRST RAILWAY CONTRACT. A new era was thus initiated. The Colony took a fresh de- paiture in the direction of progress. The long-neglected natural resources of the island were now to be turned to profitable account. The horizon Avidened in the eyes of the people, and confidence in a great i'uture for the country was developed. The funds necessary for the building of a railway were to be raised by a loan on the credit of the colony, and the Ooveinment was to direct and control the work. To t!ii«, howevei.grave objections of a i)olitical character were raised. It was considei'ed by many that the construction of the line would be more economically carried out by a contract, and that the work would prove more satisfactory. When the Legislature met in February, 1881, tin- tender of an American Syndicate for building the railway was accepted. The leading features of the contract were as follows : A line f>r narrow-guage railway (3 feet G in.) to run Irom St. John's to Halls Bay, with branches to Brigus and Harbor Grace : 52 ROADS AND RAILWAYS. the distance estimated at 340 miles. Steel rails of the hest fjuality to he used. A money sid)sidy of ^180,000, to Ije jiaid half-yeai'ly hy the Government for thii'ty-five yenrs, eomlitional on the otRcient maintenance and ojteration of the line, the pro- l^ortions of this subsidy to attach while the railway is in course of construction ; and as each five miles are comjileted and ap- proved, land gi'ants of five thousand acres per mile of good land to lie secured to the company in alternate blocks along the line in (piantities of one mile in width and eight miles in deptli ; and if not obtainable along the line, to 1)l' SL-Iectrd elsewheie. The company bind themselves to Imild a sul)stantial and etticient road, subject to approval liy a (Juvi-i'uuient Inspectoi', and to complete it in five years. FIKST SOD CUT. The tirst sod of the railway was turned on the 9th of August, 1881. By September, 1882, thirly-tive miles were comjileted and in running order ; one humlred miles were located, and the remaindei of the line northward was under survey. In Novem- ber, 1884, the line was completed and opened for traffic between St. John's and Harbour Grace, a distance of 83a miles. The work of construction led to tlie distriljution of large sums as wages among the labouiing classes who were employed : while the trailing classes also shared in the lienetit. The enterprise Avas regarded with general approval throughout the comiunnity ; and the passenger and goods traflie on the line develo]>e(l at a satis- factory rate. FINANCIAT. TROUIiLKS. Soon after, unfortunately, the "Newfoundland Railway Com- pany "got into financial difficulties, and woik on the line was discontinued. Legal proceeding- followed : tlie company jnovcd unable to fulfill their contract, and finally the pru'ti'ju of tlie line finished passed into the charge of a Keceiver on liehalf of certain bond-holders in England, who held a mortgage on it. Tender tliis airangeiiienf it has lieen most satisfactorily operated till tlie present time, and lia\-.ing a >ub<idy of .? |,').r)()() per anniini a lair dividend is paid to tlie bond-lioMeis KOADS AXIJ RAILWAYS. 53 RKSULTS. Tlie financial collapse of tlie Newfoimdlaml Railway Company was an unfortunate event, a.s the work of lailway construction was tliereljy temporarily retarded, and more or less brought into discredit. Had the constiuction been undertaken by a financi- ally strong and ca])al)le company the line would have been completed iu 1886 ; whereas only 83;^ uiiles, to Harbour Grace, were then in a woiking condition. PLACKNTIA RAILWAY. In 1885 a change of Government took place and Sir Roliert Thorliurn liecame Premier. Nothing daunted liy the previous break-down, he and his colleagues in 188G commenced the con- struction of a branch line, il miles in length, from Whitbourne Junction to Pluceutia, the old French capital. It was completed and opened in 18K8, and pioved to be a well-built line in every rcs2)ect. l!y this luaucli line not only was the large and thriv- ing population of I'lacentia Bay brought into more easy and rapid connnunication with the cajiital, Imt for the people of the whole southern and westei-n shores the travel-i'oute was shortened and facilities of trade extended. By means of a steamer plying on Placentia Bay, the various settlements around its shores wei'e enabled to participate iu these advantages. Few would now be found to deny that the Placentia Railway is a highly beneficial ]»ublic work, and well worth all it cost Moreover, the first 'se\en miles of the line fi-om Whitl)Ourne were available as a portion of the Northern extension towards Hall's l-]-iy, should that wi.irk lie resumed. Tiie great innovator and ci\ili/.('r liad now got a firm footing in the island and tlie benefits were so ajipai'ent that the work of railway-building was sure to proceed, wliatever government held the reins. The large sums distributed in tlie shape of wages among the labouring classes, in connection with railway-l)uilding, ami the number of engineers ami skilled mechanics and workmen employed, tended to advance the general jirospcrity of the ]ieople. Tlic revenue advanced iu proportion. 54 IIQAPS AND RAILWAYS. THE THORBUKN UAILWAY POLICY. In 1889 the Thorlmrn Govei-nment annoniiced as part of their policy the extension of the railway northward i'roni the Placentia Junction. Public opinion \\as strongly in favour of this as the only means of utilizing the agricultaral, forest and mineral lands, and providing new outlets for the industry of the people. The successs of the Harbour Grace line and its rapidly increasing traffic furnished a sufficient warrant for further extension, and convinced all intelligent men that in tliis country the giaml desideratum of progress is a railway to open up the interior and connect the extern districts with eacli other and with the capital. The Government wisely decided that the northern extension should be built under a contract. Accordingly they advertised for tenders in England, tlie Suited .State.; and Canada, in order to obtain such information a< to cost and otlier particulars as would enalile tliem to formulate a plan to be submitted to the Legislature. In the Legislative Session of 1889 a Railway Ex- tension Act of a comprehensive cliaracter was passed through l)oth Chambers with little opposition. Tlie Government were pledged to carry out a survey of tlie line to Hall's Bay that year, to immediately commence construction, pending a contract, and to jn'ovide for the completinn of the wliole line witliiu ten years, the rate of construction to be at the rate of not less than 25 miles per annum. The work of construction was commenced in the fall of 1889 from Placentia .Junction northward. I'efore wiut>'r set in some ten or fifteen miU'S were l)uilt. Sill AV. AVHITEWAY AGAIN riiEMIEK. Tlie general elections took ])lace in XnvcmbL-r, 1889, witli the result that Sir William Wliiteway was again called on to taki' the reins of government. He s])ecilily sliowed tliat he had lost none of liis {ormcr confidence in railwav extension a< a means of developing the I'esources of the colony. An Act was passed in the .session of 1890 ])ro\i(ling for the eoiistiuetioii of a line ol' railway tinmrd^ Hall's liay, with a luancli to Prigus or Clarke's Peach, autlioi-iziug a loan of .S'4,.")00,000, an<l empowei'iiig the JtOAliS AMI UAII.WAVS. OO fgdvciiuiu'ut to accept ;i tcniK'i- I'or cun.-tnutioii. Tlic tciiilcr of Mr. R. <T. Rci<l, of Montreal, Avas acceiitcil, and the work roni- lueuced, uuiler contract, in Octolier, 1890, to lie conijdeted in tive year?;. A CHANGE OF PKOGKAMMK. Meanrinii' a survey was made for aline of railway to tlie West .Coast of tlie island from tlie Valley of the Exploits. Tliis sur- vey Avas made liy way of the valleys of Deer Lake and Harry's Brook, in order to ascertain whether this route jiresented more tavouraljle features than that already surveyed via Red Indian Lake. The result of the survey A\as as the report showed, that :a most favourable line was found through large areas of a rich loamy soil, es])ecially about Deer Lake, awaiting agricultural <leveloiimeut. This line, too, would open u[) the tine Humber valley, famous for its jiines, and reach the Bay of Islands with its grand scenery and lands. In every respect tliis route was found to l)e far preferalile to tliat j>reviously surveyed. NOKTHKRN A>D AVESTKRX KAILAVAY. The governnieiit now decided to cany llie railway west from -.the Exploits. A new contract was entered into with Mr. R. G. Reid, by which lie undertook to "construct and equip a line of .railway commencing at the terminus of the road to be con- structed uniler the Northern Railway contract, fieing a jioint two hundred miles distant from Placentia .function, and running by the best, inost desirable ami most direct route to the north- .east end of Gi*and Lake ; thence to the north-east end of Deer Lake, and westerly along the north side (afterwards changed to south side) of Deer Lake and do\m the Humber River ; thence by way of the north side of Harry's River ; and thence to Pcjrt- .aux-Bas(|ues.''' This contract was signed on the IGtli May, 1893. On the same day another contract was signed, in which Mr. Reid undertook to operate the Placentia branch railway, and also the •" Newfoundland Northern and Western Railway," as the new line from Placentia Junction to Port-aux-Bas(pies was to be .called, for a period of ten years, commencing Sept. 1st, 1893. 56 IIOADS AND RAILWAYS. The wliole k'ligtli ol' ihv ir-w line, tiuiu Placeiitia JuiiL-tiou to" Port-aux-Buficiues, is i-stiiuatvd tu lie aliout tive Imiidied uiik's. THE CONTRACTS. The main features of the contracts were as foUows : — For' construct ini;' ami e(juipping the railway "iiayments shall he made to the coutractoi' U]>ou the completion of each continuous and consecutive section of live nnles, or a fraction of a section at the end of the work, at the rate of §"15,600 per mile of main line, the said payments being in full for all the works and materials provided for under this contract and necessary for the thorough and complete construction and e([ui2)ment of the line of railway herein provided for. All such i)ayments shall l>e made by the government and accepted by the contractor in debentures of the (hnernment of Newfoundland in sterling money of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, maturing on the 1st day of January, 1947, with interest thereon at the rate of three and a half ]>er cent, jier annum, payalde half-yearly ; principal and interest payable in LoikIou, Eng- laml." " Payments will be made to the contractor on the written certiticate of the engineer and the apjiroval of the government that the works have been duly executed." The whole line is to be completed in three years from September 1st, 1893, and to Ite a narrow -guage of three feet six inches. The specifications are .such as will secure a thoroughly safe and well-ecjuipped line. MAINTENANCE AND OPERATION. The contract for maintenance and operation of the Placentia branch and of the Newfoundland Northern and Western Eail- way for a period of ten years from September 1st, 1893, provides that the contractor shall maintain these in a safe, efficient and satisfactory manner, and continuously and etiiciently operate the «5ame (the number of trains to be run being specified) ; also, .«hall erect telegraph lines along the whole line of railway for the purp)oses of its ojieration and work them at his own expense,- and also shall, if ref^uired, work them as part of the government telegi'aph system on certain conditions. On the faithful perfor- KOAliS AND I.'AII.WAYS. ;> ( inance of tliest- c'UgageUR'iit- the i;(ncriiiiiciit ;il;icci1 "to giant in fee-simple to the coutractcr live thdusand acre- 'A' laud Ini- cacli one mile of main line or luaiuli rail\\a\- tliiiiiiglKnit tlie entire length of tile line^ tn lir ojn-rated." SlmuM the line, therefore, he five hundred miles in length, the land grant \\'ould he i, 500,000 acres. "The said fee-sinijile grants shall hi- made hy the gowru- iiient to the said contractor a- follows : — i!.JO,000 acres upon the completion of the northern lim- to Exploits ; 250,000 acies ujion the com])letion of the we-lcin line to St. GeorgeV Bay ; 250,000 acres upon the comphtion of the line to Poit-aux-Basques ; and the balance at the end of five years friMu the ilate of this ron- tract, or as soon thereafter as praelicahle. ''The land shall l)e located on each side of the railway in alternate sections of one or tAVO miles in length with tlie railway, at the option of the contractor, on meridian or lia^e lines, as the case may he, and eight miles in dejith, the go\'i-innient retaining the alternate sections, anil until the eonti'actor has made his seleetion under this section, the government shall ni.it dispo.-e of ariv Crown lands, timber, or mineral rights within eight miles on either side of the line of railway."' "AVhere such sections from any cause are not oljtainable along the line, the .said contractor may select Crown lands elsewhere to make np deficiencies, tin; br-t- mentioned selections to be made in sections or blocks of not less than one mile square and not moi-e than ten miles stjuaie." The contract contains stringent ])rovisions for the due execu- tion of the various agreements, so as to secure the construction of a first-class line of railway. One section stipulates that the ■wages of daily labourers shall not be less than one dollar per day, payalile monthly. THE WORK COM^IEXCED A'lGOKOlISLY. Under the contract the work commenced in October, 1890, and ■was prosecuted with so much energy that at the clo.se of 1891 sixty-five miles ■were completed and operated. Tlie work of con- struction continued to advance vigorously, and early in the fall of 1893 two hundred miles were completeil and trains were run- 58 KOADS AND KAILWAYS, niiig twice each wi'i'k Iji'twecu Exploits, Wliitljoiuue and St. .Jolni's. RESULTS. Tlie railway having now pi'nctiatcd a ivgioii wliicli was ])re- viously lint litllc known, to a ilistance of two lumdi-ed miles, in little more tlian two years, we are enabled, to some extent, to form an estimate of tlie lieneticial changes it has accomplished And is likely to accomplish in the fntnre, and also to arrive at a conclusion in regard to the chai'acter and resources of the coun- try "wliich it ojieiis iij). C<)>I>1<)N ROADS OPKNKD. The lirst tlung wliicli strikes us is the wonderful extent of •common roads alreatly constructed or in course of construction, to connect the \ari(jus settlements and towns on the sea coast with the railway. These have been mostly surveyed and built Ijy the contractor, Mr. Reiil, acting umler the instructions of the '(Government. A good waggmi road, forty miles in length, has been built from Trinity to Shoal Harl)our, via Goose Bay. This •opens uj) a laigv ([uantity of good land for settlement and secures access to tlie lailway to a con.siderable population. Another road, ten miles in length, has been built to connect Indian Arm Bay with the railway ; while a third, five miles in length, runs from Alexand(n' Bay to tlie railway near Gambo. A road about forty-four miles in length, from Hall's Bay to the railway, join- ing tlu' latter about four miles west of Badger Brook, has been surveyed and some work done upon it. It will doubtless T)e •completeil this season. Roads from Arnold's Cove and Come-by- -chance have also been built. A line of road four miles long has been surveyed from Northern Bight to the railway ; and another is projected from Exploits to Botwoodville and Gander Bay. It may be leasonaljly exitected that wheivver there is good land along these waggon roads it will lie occupied by settlers and that farms will multii)ly. New life will be imparted to these lonely, isolated settlements thus ])laced in easy communication with the ^.-ajiital, and vaiioiis industrial eiilerprises will lie develojied. ROADS AND RAILWAYS. 69' When so miicli lias been accomplished in sucli a hrief period in road-making, it may lie safely ]iredicte(l that hundreds of miles additional ^vi]l soon he iuiind necessary as feeders to the I'ailway. MAIT.S IJY RAILWAY. The railway now carries nearly all the nnrthern mails, whicli in winter nsed to be con\'eyed by couriers on foot or with the aid of dogs over the surface of the snow. Small steameis ])ly from Shoal Harbour, Exploits an<l ('lode Sound, arouml the ^m\s conveying mails and passengers to and from the various settle- ments. A wonderful impetus has thus been given to civilizing influences in these districts, and Ixith social and material progress lias been initiated by the railway and its satellites the roads. H'3IBKIJIXO INDliSTKY. The most marked feature, however, in the cliange already effected is the surprising development of Inmlieriug industry v'liich has followed i'ailway extension. This far exceeds the most sanguine expectations and amidy sustains the statements of those Avho have been proclaiuiing, too often in deaf ears, the value of the forest Avealth of the island. Fi\e large and well- equij)ped lumbering establishments ha\i' sprung up along the line of railway and are luniiug out large quantities of excellent lumber, mainly pine and spruce. These are — the (.'ami)bell Lum- bering Co., on the Terra Nova River ; Murphy's Mill, at Gambo ; Benton Mill, operated by Mr. 11. H. Reid on Souli's Brook ; Ster- ritt's Glenwood Lumber Co., Glenwood, on Gander Rivei', and the Exploits' Wood Co., at Botwoodville, on Peter"s Arm of Ex- ploits Bay, and Phillijjs' tine Mill on Gander Arm. A large amount of capital is invested in these establishments, and hun- dreds of men are emphncil at good wages. QUAXTITIKS ANU Ql'ALITY OF Ll^IBEE. Li the winter of 1893-94 it is calculated that tliese ^•arious lumber mills will turn out neaily twenty million feet of lumber, most of ■which would have i-emaiiied in its primeval condition but for the facilities aflbrded ))v the railwav for conductiuu tliis new 60 ROADS AXlt RAILWAYS. industry. A few of tlif lumlici' mills wciv in L'xistence before tlie railway was l)ui]t, lint now tlu'se have greatly extended their operations. In wintei- evei-ything re(|uired hy the luml)er-canips is brought by rail. If any doubt regarding the quality of this ]>ine is still felt, the jirice which it firings in the English market iurnishes a suttieient answer. Experts from other countries in'O- nouiice it excellent. It will rei(uire many years to exhaust the great forest growths along the (Zander River and Lake, and the Terra Nova, Gambo and Exploits and Humber Valleys. Luml)- ■erers are at work already some sixty miles from the sea-board on behalf of the Botwoodville mills. Pine ti'ces fifty to sixty feet high, and two to three feet in diameter, are commonly met Avith. Vast fo]-est areas ai-e still unt(jU(hed. FARMINti FACILITIES. The lundierer must precede the farjuer in clearing the soil for ■cultivation. As the forest-growths aie cut down settlers will ■occujiy the land, and homesteads will take the place of the pine- iorests. Facilities for colonizing these wildernesses are now i'urnished by the ii'on road. A srORTINfi COrNTKY. The sjMjrtsnian will reckon this country a ]pai-adise. Deer are there in abundance. It is re])(iitel that from 500 to 1,000 of these noble animals were slaughtered al)out Gandei Lake when swimming across in Xo\end)er, 1893 — a M'anton and barbarous destruction. The North American hare is found in prodigious numbers and ptarnugan are plentiful. The beaver and other fur-bearing animals, bears and wolves are met Avith. Trout and salmon-fishing in the lakes and I'iveis is excellent. All the materials for attracting settlers and i'or i'urnishing openings for vai'ied industries ai'e to be found iu this country to which the all-couipiering locomotixe has now gi\'en access. CHAKACTFR OF THK Il.VILAVAY. Before giving an account ot the various stations along the line and the physical featuies of the country whose solitudes are now for the first time invaded, it may be well to say something of the EOADS AND IIAILAVAYS. 61 .diameter of the railway umU'r constrnctioii. Impartial and competent judges wlio have visited and examined the line are unanimous in piououncing it one of the liest new roads ever laid clown. No rtiiusy work is to he found on it ; all is solid and .calculated to last. Tlie road-ljed is unsnr])assed ; the rails heavy and of excellent material and shape ; the ties or sleepers most .suljstautial ; the bridges and culverts nf granite and steel of supi'rior (|uality. The passenger cars are of the same style as tliose used on the Canadian Pacific line. The trains run so -moothly tliat the traveller has some difficulty in realizing that lie is imssing over a road just carved out of "the forest jirimeval." All avei'age speed of thirty miles an hour could lie safely reached .011 such a road, so that the short-route iiroblem hetween America .and Europe may yet lie solved heiv. It is difficult to fancy an ex])ress train with magnirteent Pullman sleeping and dining .cars, within tMo years from this date, rushing through the very lieart of tliose Terra Nova solitudes, where the deer, the wolf, •the liear and tlie fox were till recently the only dwellers ; yet, by the close of 1895, these fancies will be translated into solid facts. Five hundi'ed and titty miles of railway froui St. John's •to Port-aux-Bas(pie will lie in active operation. A short run of .one liuudi'ed miles aei-oss the Gulf of St. Lawrence, will place traxellers iu connection with the Continental railway-system ; .and Xewfoundland will almost cease to be an island. Such are tlie magical effects of a lailway in a new country. "What the ■Canadian Pacific railway has done for the Dominion, the Xew- foundland Northei^n and Western railway is destined to do for this island in coming years. Its dormant resources will be brought to light an<l its iiathless wildernesses converted into ■"the liap2)y homes of men." ROUTE OF KAILAVMY. From Placentia Junction, seven miles from "Whitbourne, the new line runs northerly, crossing the istlimus wliicli connects the Peninsula of Avalon with the main body of the island, which yit its narrowest part is but three miles wide. On either side of 62 ROADS AND i;AIL"\VAYS the isthmus are the liead.s of tlie great bays of Placentia and Trinity, Still following a nortlierly course, the railway traverses the Terra Nova, Gambo and Gander Valleys, and entei's the great valley of the Exploits at Norris's Arm. From this point it turns ■westerly, following up the Exploits Valley and crossing the river at Bishop's Falls, ten miles from its mouth, on a fine steel l)ridge 630 feet in length with granite piers and abutments. From Bishop's Falls the railway crosses over into the valley of the Peter's Arm Brook, (tlie Grand P'alls lieing about one and a half miles from the railway at tlie 222iid mile from Whitbounie), Init returns to the Valley of the Exploits again near Rushy Pond at the 227th mile from Whitbourne. From tlieiicu it follows up the Exploit's Valley to Badger Brook where it iiually leaves the river. From Badger Biook it takes a north-westerly route crossing the White Hill Plains, tlience down the valley of Kitty's Brook to the north-eastern end of Grand Lake. Tlie course is then along the southern side of Deer Lake to Bay of Islands^ thence through the valley of HaiTy's Brook to Bay St. George. From this 2">oint the line passes back of the Anguille range of hills, down tlie valley of llie Codi'oy Eivers to Cape Ray, about nine miles distant from Port-aux-Bas(pie, which is the terminus of the line. CHANGKS TO BE KFFKCTED. From this outline of the route it will l»e acen that the new railwav traverses and opens up the lai-gest and most valuable areas of agricultural, forest and mineral lands in the island. In the course of years, l)ranch lines and waggon roads will connect the outlying regions with this Grand Trunk Railway, and thus the various centres of popidation will be linked together and brought under civilizing influences, and new industries pro- moted. A closer glance at the country along the line will fully bear out these statements. FIRST FIFTY MII.ES. Tilt first thirty or forty miles of the railway run through a wild rugged countr\-, very rocky, especially across the isthmusf EOADS AND ];AILWAVS. Go being interspersed Mitli luurcus ami lakrli-ts. (\iiiic-li\-( 'liaiicr valley, 50 miles from WlntlKUirne, is well Avooilid, and eniitain- laud ■\vliicli -when cleared, will U'pay ( ultivation. It holds good, Iiowever, that the fertile belts aw to be fonnd in tin- valleys ot the lar<;er rivers and ahmg the banks of the 2)rinripal lakes. On the ridges and high lands are generally IVuind marshes and •' Ijarrens,'' the latter of wliieh can be ntili/ed lor sheep and cattle raising. GKANITE OUAKKIKS. At Eandom, sixty-one miles and at the one hnn<lred and forty- third mile from WhitlKmrne, twx) tine granite ipiarries have been opened, the granite of which compares favorably with the best Scotch article. From these ([uarries the contractor obtain> tlie i?tone used in l)nilding ma.-onry, bridges, etc, on tlie railway. TO PORT BI.ANDFOKD, CLODE SOUND. At Clarenville and Upper Shoal Harbonr villages the line again reaches the salt water. A small steannr plies here for the conveyance of mails and passengers to and lium the neigldiour- ing settlements. To a limited extent the land here has been brought under cnltivation. Opposite Clarenville on Random Island, Trinity Bay, is a lirick-making estalilishment, where brick of a snperior character are made. On Smith Sonnd, a short distance from Slioal Harl)oni-, are slate de])osits where slate of a snperior (jnality is oljtained. At Shoal Harbour is a small saw-mill, the logs for which are brought down the Shoal Harbour river along which the railway passes to C'lode Sound, an arm of Bonavista Bay, ninety-seven nules from Whitljonrne. Here the scenery is very tine. A growing settlement ha< sprung ujj and the land is being rapidly brought under cidtivation. There is here a beautiful sandy l)each where sea-l)athing can be had in perfection. The salt water is also warmer owing to its distance inland. In the near future Port Blamlford, Clode Sonnd, will be a favourite summer watering-])lace. The streams in the vicinity are Avell stocked with salmon and trout, affording to the angler excellent sjiort. There are also some line mussel <64 ROADS AND RAILWAYS. .and claiu-l)eils ; and if tlie exporiiiient were tried it is iirobable that oysters miglit liere l)e successfully raised. At Port Blaud- ford fogs are of rare occurrence, and irom this point to Cape Ray :are practicallv unknown. At Terra Nova river, tlie next station, there is a fine saw-mill, .ir.vned liv tlie ('aniphell Luml)er (Jonqmiy, with the most ap- ]>rovi'd macliiiicry. in adive operation. The country around is well stocked with game of various kimls ; multitudes of wild geese visit this place each spi-jng. The extent of the Sound is live mile.s in h-ngtli l)y two miles in hreaillh. GAMBO KIVElt. Tlie fine (Jamho River is ci'osscd liy a steel ))ridge eighty yards long, with piers of solid masonry. Both River and Lake are well tilled with trout and salmon, and tlie surroiniding country altonnds in <leer and other game. Some gooil land is ionnd at >( Jandio, hut as yet little is done in reclaiming it. A luunlsome hotel is in course of erection at this lieautiful spot for tlie accom- modation of visitors, tourists ami sportsmen. Fnmi Gamlio to Benton, on Souli's Brook, a tril)Utary of the ■Gander, the line passes through a country over which forest jires swept a nuniher of years ago, Imrniiig vast ([uantities of splendid jiine tive>. At Benton anotlier large saw-mill, having the best machinery, is in o])erati(ni. Here, too, is another granite ,(|uarry, both being operated liy Mr. Reid. OANI>ER COUNTRY. Tlie railway crosses the Gander River at Gleiiwooil about five miles below the point where it issues from the lake of the same name. The advent of the locomotive into this great valley will ."•oiistitute an era in the colonization of the island. Here, when settled and rultivateil, will l)e one of the finest agricidtural regions of Xewfoundland. Hardly anything was known of thiss region till L'^74, when the Geological Survey was extended to the iip])('r learhes of the ri\-ei' and was completed two years later. The total length of the main I'iver is one huiulred miles ; and .another branch of it, called the South-west River, also empties KOADS AND IIAIIAVAY.S. 65 into the Grcut (laiulcr Lrike, ami is cii^lity iiiik's in leiiytli. Tlu' .area flraincil is lu-arly tluve tlimisaud s(|uarc miles. AltogvtluT, .as .shown in the rcpm-ts of the Gi'ologiral Sui-vcy, tliere air iu this great expanse of coiinti'V, including tlie whole of the Gaudei' River and Lake and the neighbouring ({aniho and Terra Nova valleys, no les.s than seventeen hundred square miles available for settlement. Gander Eiver is approached from the sea at Sir ■Charles Hamilton's Sound by the great inlet of (ilander Bay, the head of which is in latitude 49" 17' north, and longitude 54' 29^ west. From this point to tlie lake the river is thirty-three miles in length. The lake is thirty-six miles long. The main branch of the river extends above the lake for a distance of sixty miles. For a small outlay this river could be made navigable for boats of good size, and <lnwn it timl»er could ivadily be floated were some present nlistructions removed. The eastern portion .of the lake stretches away in seipentine form towaids Bona vista Bay, its extremity being separated from that l>ay l)y only nine miles i_)f a le\-el country, owv Avhich a I'oad or tramway could .easily be constructed. Thus, this great valley lias two outlets to the sea, and is now by r;iilway placed in conimunication with the rest of the island. The valley, drained by the South-west River, eighty miles in length, has excellent soil and luxuriant timber ■growths. GKOLOGICAI. REPORT OF GANDER VALLEY. In the Re[iorts of the Geological Survey of the Gander district it is spoken of iu the following terms :—" The country lying aliove the great lake and forming the valleys of the two river.s presents evejywhere a gently undulating surface, rising to a moderate height in it- mure ele\ated ])arts, ami .sloping gradu- .ally and wit li beautiful regularity down to the river's banks on either side. For a distance of thirty miles above the lake, and .at least twt) miles on the we.stern side of the main and eastern side of the south-we.st rivers, the cK)untry is of this character, giving a block of tliiity mile^ long by ten wid.e, or an area of three hundred sipiare miles, covered with a deep rich yellow 66 EOADS AND JfAILAVAYS. sauily loam. Xearly every acre of these tliree liuudreil .square miles is well adajited for agrieultuval purposes, wliile magniticeiit pine, spruce, fir and wliite birch cover the whole. The islands or intervals in the rivers, especially near their outlets, are per- fectly level, and covered with exceedingly deej) and rich alluvial soil Tlie soil here, over a very great area, is of excellent cpiality and capable of yielding rich harvests. Taking everything into account, there is no more promising country or' one more easy of access in British America.'" " In all my travels about the island I have no where seen any- thing like the quantity of pine timber to be met with here." " There is an area of not less than tive hundred square miles worthy of being laid out as timber-limitS' where an immense trade miglit l)c cariicd on successfully." . "Were the tracts surrounding the head-quarters of the Gamlxr and the south-west branch to be taken into accoiint, I have little doubt the area would be extended to a thousand square miles." Mr. Murray, the Chief of the Geological Sur\-ey, calculated that there was sufficient timber here " to yield 02,160,000 feet annu- ally for one lunidred years." The following is Mr. Howley's (tlien Assistant Geologist), estimate of the pine lands here : — "Area of pine lands on the lower valley of the Gandei- Eiver and north side of the lake . Area of pine lauds on the lower vallfy of the Sq.wa. Gander river and north side of the lake ... 200 Valleys of the main and south-west rivers ... 800 South side of lake and across to Freshwater Bay 200 Valley of theGandjo and Triton river and tribu- taries l.')0 Total 850 In addition to its agricultural and lumbering capabilities the Gander country gives aljundant promise of being a mining dis- trict. The rocks of the serpentine group having all the charac- teristics of the cop2)er-l)earing formation in Notre Dame Bay are extensively developed in these areas. Kt)Al>S AM) K'AILWAYS. 67 SKTTI.K.HKNT. «Sucli i> tlu' Oiuiilcr cminlry wliirli tlu' i"iil\vay li;x^ now lapix'il jXiid i-euik'i't'd aceesf;il>lc. Tlic ia])i(l progres.s of tUo lumbering iniUistrv, already desciilx'd, aliundantly sn.stains the statements x)t'tlie Geological Survey as to its forest wealtli. Its tine scenery ;ind capabilities as a sporting ci>unti'y will attract multitudes of tourists when once it is known. As the valley is gradully cleared .of its forest-growths settlement will follow and one day it will be the seat of a large and thriving population. (,'i-ossing the (lander River the railway lams to Norris's Arm ;ou the Bay of Exploits and again reaches tide-water. This is .destined to l)e an inipoitant ])lace and here a village is sure to spring up .soon. Tlie .scenery is re])orted to be very tine. A steamer plies from liere on Notre Dame Bay for the conveyance jof mails and passengei's, and roads are iirqjected to connect it with the neighbouring ai'uis of the Bay. At Botwoodville, three and a-lialf miles acro.ss the liay, the Exploits Wood Company have a laige mill at Peter's Arm and are carrying on an ex- tensive trade in deals with llie Englisli market. They have x.>xteusive timber-grants in the Exploits and adjacent valley.s. At Burnt Bay, a short distance from Norris's Arm, there is a tine harbour having deep watei- and ample accommodation for the largest steamers. Passengers and mails landing hei'C from England would shorten the distance greatly and get quick trans- ference to Port-aux-Basque. A Iji'anch line, nine miles long, would connect Burnt Bay with the main line. VALLEY OF EXPLOITS. As already noted the line takes a westeily direction at Norris's Arm and enters the great Aalley of tlie Exi)loits, where tlie soil is superior to any yet reache.l. Timothy hay is seen growing here to a height of four feet on tlie lumber roads from seeds j^cattered by trains in hauling supi)lies to lumbei- cam2)s. At Bii^hop's and at Grand Falls, fuither up the liver, the scenery i.s exceedingly fine. The line now i-uns through a level country having an ujiward grade which continue.s till the water-shed between the Exjdoits and Grand Lake is reached at the 275tli G8 liOADS AMI RAILWAYS. iiiik' iVoiu "Wliitlidunu'. Situated o\i tlu- watci'-slied are tlic Wliite Hill Plains, " Great Baireiis," -where a splendid raneliiiig fountry is reached i'(|ual, as a cattle and sheep-raising district, to the celebrated Foot Hills of the Rocky Mountains in Montana, <ir to Alberta in Canada. (Janie ol all kinds abound here, and deer are especially numerous. Portions of the valley of Kittv's P>rook are well adapted for I'aniiing and pasturage. SOIL AND TIMIJKR OF EXPLOITS. The great valley of the Exploits, now opened up by the rail- Avay, presents sncli manifold advantages for farming, lumliering anil other industrial pursuits, that it nuist one day become the seat of a large population. \\'ith a s])lendid ri\er, abundant timber and a fertile soil it will not long remain in its present wilderness condition. The Exploits, which is the largest river in Newfoundlaml, rises in the sonth-western angle of the island, and, after a course of 200 miles, falls into the bay of the same name. It drains an area of 4,000 scpiare miles, of which it is calculated that nearly half are reclaimalile and tit for settlement. It Hows through Red Indian Lake thirty-seven miles in length and distant from the mouth of the river between seventy and eighty miles. The lower valley, l)etween the Red Indian Lake and the sea, is capalile of sustaining many thousand inhabitants. In the report of the Geological Survey it is said, '• The soil is ecpial to the best pai'ts of Lower Cana<la ; there is little swamp ; it is unencumbered Avitli boulders, the hills Avooded to their tops ; the root-crojjs grown l)y the few settlers are excellent ; as a graz- ing and stock-raising country it can haidly be surjiassed." " The tind)er is in many places still abundant, consisting of pine, white- birch, very large sjn'Uce an<l tamarack." .... " The liver anil its tributaries afford water-power to any extent." .... " The country .'=outh of Hodge's Hill and on the southern side of the Exploits presents an uidjroken dense forest in a .series of gentle nndulations as far as the eye can I'each. The country between the Victoria and the head of Red Indian Lake is well timbered throughout." " The quality of the KOADS AM) RAILWAYS. 69* .sj'outaiieoiis ])i(i(luiti(nis aliuiy flu' lower rt^acliL-s ol' the rivi-r' imlicates a iVrlilc >oil." CATTM': ItAISlNC;. Tlieiv can Ik- little doiilit that llie larilitic-s fuv cattle-raisin.i; ■will speedily atti-aet attention, to this ie,<;ion. Its proximity to- English markets — only six or se\en ihiys" steaming — tlie excel- lent liarltcmr for sliip[)inL; rattle ami the laeilities for ^rowini;- hay and root-crops — the alaindanl ^iipjily of nntritious wild grasses in summer — all conihine to mark out many iioi-tioiis of the Ex- l^loits and other valleys as ranching districts of great promise. With the superior advantages for stock raising the island affords, it seems strange that we should still he importing large quantities of beef (97,600 His. in 1892), some of which i.s hrought from Nevada, a distance of some 4,000 miles ; the cost of carri- age alone being greater than it could bi- raised for here, besides, the grazing grounds are much inferior to our own. GKIOAT HIMKKK A AI.LKY. After cros.sing the great Barrens the railway runs towards the north-eastern end of Grand Lake and enters the Huml>er Valley. This magnihcent valley, in regard to its soil, timber and scenic beaut}' — its noble river and its hue lake .surpasses anything yet describeth The total area is estimated at 800 square miles. This includes the wide expanse of country around Deer Lake, the narro\\' valleys of the Lower Hund)er and Grand Lake, and also that above Sandy Lake, on the eastern branch. At the head of Deer Lake the valley widens and spreails out in all directions for miles. Its dimensions here are stated to he twenty-five miles in length and twenty in breadth — giving an area of five hun- dred square miles. In the last report of the Geological Survey it is said : " The Avealth of tind)er resources still available on the magnificent Humber Valley, together with the sujjerior ([uality of soil covering so large an area, and capable of being cultivated to advantage, far exceed anything on the eastern side of the island. It may be safely estimated that at least ibur hundred out of the eight hundred s(|uare miles that comprise the entire ■70 l.'OADS AND KAILWAVS. valley are ol" tliis tuADuvalile cliaiacter ; wliile I liave little liesi- tatinii in saying tliat lialf tlic remainder would eomparo favour- ably willi nio^t ol' tlie land eleareil and eultivated on the eastern sealioard.'' "In jioint of scenic lieauty, however, tlie views on the Lower Hunil)er and along the (4rand Lake are mucli to ho ])reterred" (to the Deer Lake <listrict.) "especially those chainiing . cascades, of which there are |)rol)al)Iy a hundred or more around the shores of Grand Lake and on the (^reat Island. The beauty and variety oi' the scenery alone is likely to attract many tourists to this region in the near futui'e, so soon as better facilities for reaching it than those at present existing are att'orded." COURSK or THK HUMUKll. The River Humber is al)out one hundred and fourteen miles in length, and falls into Humber Sound, an arm of the Bay of Islands. The liay is sjiacious and easy of access, its length being al)out fifteen miles. The scenery liere is the most magnificent in tile island, ^riie arm known as the Humber Sound extends fidui llie soutli-eastern partof the bay twenty-eight miles easterly into the country, with a width of more than two miles. The Blomidon Hills, from 1,000 to 2,000 feet high, rise to the south ..of the Sound. The Humber River, just before falling into the Sound, passes through a narrow gorge nearly three miles in length, having on each side lofty crags ■which in some places shoot up perjicndicularly from the water's edge to the height of a thousand feet. In Mowing through this gorge the river is in some jdaces pent u]) to a chain in width, the current being deep and strong. Three miles from the mouth of the river a sliglit rapid is met, Mhich is easily passed at high spring-tides. Aljove this rajjid the Humber opens out wide, flowing through the beautiful pictures(pic valley till Deer Lake is reached, twenty miles from the mouth oi the river. All round this lake is an expanse of fine country, extending in one direction for several miles. A SOLITARY PIONKKR. A single settler is the sole occupant — Mr. (tco. Nicholls — who came here many years ago irom Cape Breton. He has now a fine KOADS AND ItAILWAYS. 71 piiiducliw laiin in wliidi lu' f^^iows (•r()ps of all kind.-, inclmling \vliuat. The soil is a (l('i'|i sandy loam yielding root-crops wliieli , cannot lie snijiassed. Clover, liuck-wlieat and Hax grow luxu- riantly. Hay is cut Ironi tlie natural grasses, and hops thrive luxuriantly. The nearest neighhour to this solitary ])ioneer is some thii'ty miles otl' The want ot" roads ami markets has hitherto preveuteil the settlement dC this tine distriet, l)Ut the advent of the railway will change all this, and the value of land may lu' exjiected to advance rajjidly. BAY OF ISI.A>'L).S. The railway reaches the Bay of Islands at Corner Brook, where there is every facility for the ei'ection of good wharves for the ex])ortation of farm-jtroduce, lumhvr, minerals, etc. The tine lierring tishi'ry ol' this hay, which is carried on during the winter, will receive an imjiulse from the railway which, in all prohahility, will lead to a wonderful expansion (jf this industry. It is true that much of the pine along the vi\ev has heeii long .since cut down, yet much good timlier of other kinds is still to be found there in al)undance, and thei-e are still many portions which the lumlier-man has not yet invaded. The shores of (ii'and Lake an- densely timbered with every variety of forest- growth, white pine being abundant. The country l)etween Grand and Sandy Lakes and the banks oi (ifjose Brook, arc regions yet almost untouched, and contain a large proportion of pine. In all these there is ample space for a large lumbering indu.stry for years to come, which will be developed by the railwav. MAKBLK BEDS. All these, however, do not exhaust the natural resources of the Humber Valley. It has long been famous for its marble deposits, wliicli are of enormous extent, but yet untested. Specimens liave been found of white marble of a very fine grain which .apjjears adapted for statuary purposes .should it exist in suffi- ciently massive beds, which is yet undetermined. " The variety of colours disjjlayeil in other specimens is very considerable and .often very beautiful.'' Marble (piarries are among the possibili- 72 EOAD.S AM) KAILWAYS. ties of the future, ami a large export of this valualile artiele at no distant date. THE NEW COAL riEL,I>. Still more important is the diseoverv of a new coal Held in the vicinity of the Grand Lake, whieli is now heing tested uiuh-r the orders of Government liy Mi-. Howley, head of tlie (leo- logical Survey. "While the indications are exceedingly hoi)eful, it would be jjromature to say that M'oikal)le coal-seams of any great extent have been fnuiMl. What is (•(.■rtain, howe\-er, is tliat the carbonifei'ons series (A forniatiims ocLU[»y a large aiea of the Hunil)er Valley, indeed, the entiiv jdateau of the valley is al- most exclusively composeil of these rocks. Borings were made in 1879-80 along the side of Sandy Lake, which revealed the existence of at least a portion of the up]ier or true <(ial-l)earing measures, with a few small coal-seams. On tlu- sdulhern side of Grand Lake tlie coal-measures form a deep narrow trough, the best and most extensive exposures of coal-measures being at Aldrey and Coal Brooks. Here borings were made in 1891-'92' with the following resnlts as <letailed in Mr. Howley's report : — "■Altogether eleven actual ontcrops were seen on Goal Brook;, indications of at least six on a small lirook west of it, and* twenty-eight on Aldery Brook. Of course, most of these repre- sented but thin unworkable seams of coal, nften of an infei-ior character. Nos. 4 and 7 of Coal Brook, 6, 7, 15 and 16 of Al- dery Brook, are about the largest and l)est seams. Of these, four average over three feet of coal each, while the fifth and sixth contain a.bout two feet each of a very superior (quality. But,, though most of the seams are of smaller dimensions, yet, I take it, that their peculiar position and attitude in the sections greatly enhances their value as a whole. For instance, in the sections on Aldery Brook, in a horizontal distance of 335 feet across the centre of the troiigh, which in reality represents only 167.7 feet vertical thickness, nine distinct coal-seams are recognized on one side, only two of ^\•hich have as yet been clearly seen and measured on the other side. The remaining seven are also there beyoml question, though not uncovered, yet sufficient IIOADS AND RAILWAYS. 73 coal (iL'tritus was uu't witli in fosteaiiiii;.; ti> indicate' tlieir juvs- ence. Heuco, we have at leai^t eighteen layers of coal succeei ling- each other in nearly vertical attitude within a total hori/ontal distance of 33.j feet, lea\ing an average of less than nineteen feet of strata between each layer. Such being the case, it ap- pears to me all these seams could be worked from one opening, especially as they approach eat h other nearer and nearer as they descend." PROSPECTS. The foregoing report indicates, at least, a strong j^robability that a workable coal-field in this locality, close to the ne^v lino of railway, will be developed. It would be difficult to over-rate the importance of such a discovery should it tui'n out in accord- ance with expectations. It would })rom(ite the settlement and industrial development of this tine reginn to an extent which is now hardly conceivable, especially when llie railway is so close to the coal-field. IRON ORE FOUND. Even this is not all. Iron ore is i'ound here in abundance as- sociated with coal. Th.e following is an extrait from Mr. Howley's repoi-t : — "The clay iron-stone l)ands interstratified with the coal-measures on Aldery and Coal Brooks are to all ap- pearances sinular to those found in most other coal fiehls. Jn England, this ore has been the principal source of the iron of commerce for wdiich that country has been so far-famed. It has been said that England's greatness Avas chiefly due to her coal and iron. Judging from external appearance, the ore here is of a faiily good tonality, and there can be no question that the de- posits are very extensive. It occurs as usual in the form of ir- regular nodules, nodular bands and compact solid bands, inti- mately associated with the principal coal seams. Its jjrospective value on that account to the future development of large indus- tries in this section of the island can hardly be realized now." SCENERY— KAY OE ISLANDS. At Corner Brook, where the railway station Avill be built, Fisher's saw-mill is in operation, the water-}>ower lieing obtained 7-i IJOADS AND liAILWAYS. iVoia the brook l.y a wooden sluice ;i qiiarter of a mile in length. Tlie (juaiititv oi' cultivable land here though limited in quantity (jwing to tlie steep hills around, is of excellent (quality. Garden produce of all kinds grow well : fruits, such as greengages, plums, apples, all kinds of lieri-ies, tlirive luxuriantly. To reach the Avide tanning lauds the narrow gorge through which the river flows into the Sound nuist l»e passed. At " The Devil's Dancing Point,'' where the river is narrowed to about one hundred feet, the scenery is most impressive, (jreat marble and limestone cliffs rise almost perpendicularly to the height of a thousand feet. The rushing current has cut a succession of caves in these great marble walls, ])resenting a mtjst pictures(pie apjiearance. The over-hanging locks and tree's, the mountains towering on each hand, the swiftly-Howing l)ut silent rivei-, all condiine to form a scene which could hardly l)e surpassed in any other ^.•ountry. Every year witnesses the arrival of tourists from Eng- land, tlie United States and Canada, in larger numbers, to view tlie hue scenery of the Bay of Islands and the Humlier Valley, an<l to enjoy the troxit and salmon fishing, while the more adven- turous stalk the deer around the shores of Grand Lake. The splendid climate in summer, the air of the jdateau l)eing intoxi- cating, the unrivalled opportunities for sport, the scenic beauty for the artist, must render this region, once the railway is com- plete, the favorite resort for summer visitors. FK03I BAY OF ISLANDS TO ST. GICOKOE'S. From (Jorner Brook, the railway ascends the hill and jiasses behind Bircliy and Petrie's Cove, the principal settlements on the bay. Between these two jjlaces are the Court House, the English, Presbyterian and Methodist Churches, with school- houses belonging to se\'eral ihmominations. Leaving Bay of Islands, the line now turns southward towards the St. George's Bay, passing through a somewhat broken country. Some of the lands on Cook's Brook, Spruce Brook and Harry's Brook, will be found fit for farming and 2)asturage. At Spruce Brook the line comes within four miles of the fine Asbestos mine, leased a short time ago to American capitalists, which is likely to be very ROADS AND KAIIAVAYS. Ity proiluctive. It is also the nearest point on llu- i-ailway to tlie Port-au-Port A.sbestos mines. Tlie great tlrawbaek hitherto in Avorking thi.sand other asbestos mines lias been the -want of roads for the conveyance of supplies for the workers and the transmis- sion of the mineral to the place of shi]iment. The railwax meets all such ditticidties. THE GARDEN OF NEWrOUNDLANlJ. At St. GeoT'ge's Bay the laihvay enters the finest region in the whole island, all its natural capabilities being taken into account. Here are numerous valleys of fertile land opeiung on the bay, well wooiled with i)ine, jnnii)er or tamarack, fine yellow and white bii'ch, spruce and balsams, the soil capal)le when cleared of yielding excellent crojis. It is found to In- es]>ecially jn'oduc- tiA'e of the richest grasses of \arious kinds, while the climate is very fine. Gypsum of the l)est quality is abundant. Asbestos has been recently discovered at several ])oints, and nunes arc opened at Port-au-Port and elsewhere. Clay tit for lirick-making' has also been found. As a farming, fund )ering ami nuning region its capabilities are very great. Above all, hen- is the great coal- field of NeA\foundland, which the eminent geologi!^t Jukes esti- mated to l)e twenty-five miles Avide and ten in length. Coal seams three and four feet in thickness at the out-ci-op have been found here. It is yet untouched but will not long remain su after the lailway has reached it. At St. George's Bay, opposite Sandy Point, the principal settlement, there is a fine site at the Seal Eocks for a town to grow u[) and to become an inqiortant industrial centre. At the neighliouring Port-au-Port there ai-e large deposits of lead containing a pro]>ortion of silver ore. Iron ore is also rei)orted to be found in the neigliboiirhood of ijie coal seams. CULTIVABLE LAXD. According to the reports of the Geological survey there are around the shores of St. George's Bay and the valleys Avhich open into the interior, and are traversed by rivei's flowing from the highlands, 1(;4,")06 scprare acres of reclaimalde land tit for sittle- raeut, a large portion of it containing exci'lleut soil. 76 ItOADS AND RAILWAYS. CODROY VALLEYS. From St. George's Eay the line passes within a mile of the villages on the coast, and, at Crabb's Brook, runs behind the Angiiille range of moimtains down the Codroy Valleys to Cape Kay, and thence a distance of nine miles, to Port-au-Basqiie. The Anguille hills are too high and steej) fur ordinary tillage, but contain the finest, sheep and cattle runs, where immense flocks and herds might Ije fed. The Codroy Valleys have long been celebrated for their fertility and are partially settled. They contain at least seventy thousand acres, much of it fit for settle- ment. They are well wooded with spruce, Ijalsani, fir, yellow and white birch, and tamarack. The islands and flats of the lower part of Great Codroy River yield a luxuriant growth of wild grass, aftbrding an ample su^jply of good fodder i'or cattle. The cattle and sheep reaied on the small farms here jsroduce ex- cellent beef and mutton, and the grass, grain and root-crops testify to the excellence of the soil on which tliey are grown. The dairy produce is of the best description. MKSTERX NEWrOUNDLANW. If we take the whole tract of country fiom tlie Humliei A'alley (inclusive) to Cape Ray, through which the line passes, Ave have Avhat will undouljtedly be one day the garden of Western Xew- foundland. A])ait from its niineral treasures and forest wealth, the agricultural ca])abilities of this region are such that it should .sujiply all the markets of the island and also be able to export largely to otlit-r countries. POKT-AL'X-BASQUE. From Cape Ray to Port-aux-Basijue the line passes over nine miles of rocky barrens, but the valleys cutting the barrens con- tain good farming and jjastui-e land and are partly taken up and settled. Sheeji ranching could be carried on here with advan- tage. This port, which forms the terminiis, is large, safe au<l commodious, the largest steamers being aide to enter at all periods of the tide. It is the nearest winter port to the Do- minion of Canada. Once tlie railway is conqdeted connections liOADS AND RAILWAYS. 77 Avill 1)e foniic'il bv ;i line of .swift steanier.-*, and the transmission .of ilaily mails will .soon follow. It is not difficult to conceive that at no distant date tliis may become the shortest route be- tween the two liemispheres. By it the ocean i)assage proper jnay be n-dmid to a little over three days — a weighty considera- tion with the majority of traveller.s. ASBESTOS MIXING. Tlicre is a new industry springing up along the western coast, wliicli is likely lo prove important and renmnerative. The very valuable mineral sulj.stance called asbestos lias been discovered in so many dittVreut places that there can no longer be a douljt that >s'ewtouiidl;nid will become one of the very few sources of .su^jply which at jaesent e.\i<t. Asl)e.stos, as is well known, is one of the scarcest minerals, while its use is extending .so rapidly that the demand is constantly increasing. The Province of Quel)ec is at prc-icnt the chief .source wlieni;c manufacturers on this side of the Atlautie derive tlieii' -uj}i)lies. It is there found in the magiiesiau roiks known as the (^)ueliec (ilrou]). There are im- mense areas in this island covered by the same maguesian rocks; .and in I'ccent years the effoi-ts of prospectors liave been rewarded by the discovery of an excellent (piality of this mineral in several localities. Sf) far thc^e iliscoveries have been chiefly confined to the neighbourhood of Port-au-Port. Here Mr. Jones, an Eng- lish gentleman, author of an excellent work on asbe.«to.s, has been .at work foi- two seasons with very encouraging results. Two .other ile]iosits have been found in the .same locality, and a .still more impoi'taut one between Bay of Islands and Bay St. George near the line of railway, to which reference has already been made. The total absence of roads has greatly retarded progress at these mines. AVhen supplies of food, tools and all equipments ha\-e to be cairied ou men's backs for miles through the woods in order to reach these mines the cost of working l)ecomes enor- mous and cajntalists are discouraged. Eoads in many directions to connect with the railway will soon be found nece.s.'^ary- As the rocks hohliug this mineial are widely developed, Ijoth along the sea coast and in the interior, it is highly probable that 78 KOADS ANT) IfAIIAVAYS. asbestos mining will form a valuablf industry of tlie future,, especially as facilities for its prosecution are noAv secured by the new railway. On Sandy Bay, on the west coast, near the Strait's of Belle Isle, discoveries have rL^^ently been made of crude l^etroleum, and if found in any quantity it will prove a valuable addition to the resources of the island. A company has recently been formed to work this claim. In conclusion, it is difficult to over-rate tlie beneficial results- likely to How to the counti-y from the new railway which has been thus described in outline. The employment furnished du- ring its construction and afterwards in its maintenance and ope- ration, the large sums disti'ilniteil as wages among the working' classes, will improve the condition of a large number. Many of those working on the line will j^rolxably take np land and become permanent settlers in tlu' interior. All aroiiu<l the shores- are many hundreds of families living in uni'avouraVilc localities,, often in tlu- depth of poverty from tlie failure of the fisheries,, which along the coasts are becoming more and niore precarious. These poverty-stricken j^eople will not continue to cling, to the- naked rocks and starve •when they can find work, gfKnX wages,, land for settlement, fuel for the gathering along the newly-opened line of railway. In fact, there should be no poverty antong the able-bodied. As their material condition improves higilier wants will be experienced and civilizing iufiuences will e-xtenid. Edu- cation will exert its benign intiuenct'. There is another aspect in whicli tliis great work ntay lie re'-- garded. America is rapidly filling up. Tlie good lands of the United States are j'retty well all taken up. Restrictions on ini' migration are inci'easing each year. Tlie tide (.)f emigration which has hitherto flowed past these shores may now send some rills that will help to people these solitudes in the interior of this island >\ hicli is now opened up, and whose natural re.-onrces- are so abundant. Its proximity to Euro]>e will prove an attrac- tion to emigrants when contrasted with the thousands of mile.s- to be travelled in order to reach the fixr west of the United States- and Canada. The healthful climate, in which neither the scorch-- ItOADS AND TiATLWAYS. 79"' ing heat of American .summeis nor the Uightiiig cold of tlieir Avinters luive to he encountered, will he a weighty considci'ation with those who are changing their lionie;<. It i.s also a matter of certainty that a constantly inu-reasiug influx of touri.sts, sportsmen and travellers, w ill tind their way to Newfoundland during the summer months now that its nolde scenery ami attractions for the sportsman are made known and rendered accessihle. The island is really the Norway of tlu^ New Worhl, and comi)ares favouralily with Ireland or Scotland as regards scenery and natural resources ; and were facilities for travel matching those in Norway, provided, hosts of visitors would every year he seeking its shores. All those developments will come in due time now that the grand essential, a trunk rail- way has heen constructed. NEWFOUNDLAND RAILAVAY C031PANV. Under the careful and skilful management of the Receiver, the Newfoundland Eailway, from St. .lohn's to Harhour Grace,- (83i^ miles) has made most satisfactory ])rogress in the develop- ment of passenger and goods trattic-. The road-hed, track and rolling stock are maintained in excellent condition, and the mad is efHciently and continuously o}»erated. The trains run with remarkahle regularity, winter and summer ; and \\\> to tlie pre- sent time, there have been no serious accidents and very I'ew injuries to jiassengers or employees. In order to show the advance which has heen ma<le, we shall take for comjiarison the year 1886, when the line was tirst ope- rated under the present an-angement, and 1893. 1880. In 1880 the gross earnings of the railway were .§'40,772. There were carried over the line during that year 37,649 passengeis, the average distance travelled hy each being 30 1-5 miles, at an average I'ate of fare, including all classes, of two tive hundred and twenty-two-one thousand cents per mile. The total jiassen- ger earnings amounteil to ^29,01U. During the same year there were carried over the line 4,996' tons of freight, being an average haul per ton of 51 8-10 miles, at :80 ROADS AND RAILWAYS. .ftu average rate of tliree uinety-two-one liuiidred cents 2)er ton per mile. The total freight earnings were ';^10,156. 1893. In 1893 the gros.s earnings of the railway from all sources were .$79,884, being an increase, as compared with those of 1886, of .^33,162, or over 70 jjer cent. In the same year there were carried over the line 58,791 i)as- .sengers, for whicli service the sum of ^48,815 was received. The .earnings per passenger per mile, including both 1st and 2nd .classes, were 2.37 cents, and tlie average distance travelled l)y .each passenger was thirty-five miles. There were, in 1893, 10,181 tons of freight carried, for wliich was received the sum of ^22,294 ; the earnings per ton ])er mile were 4.18 cents ; ami the avei'age distance hauled each ton was .52.40 miles. This shoAvs an advance in the freight trattic of 104 per cent, as compared with 1886, and an increase in passenger traffic of over fifty per cent. The receipts for mail service be- tween St. John's and H.arbour Grace are ^*7,200 per annum. Considerable imjn-ovements on the line were carried out in 1892-93, including the substitution of six iron bridges on .granite abutments, for trestle Ijridges, and improvements at the ■St. John's and Whitbourne stations — the erection of snow fences, etc. The engines and all other rolling stock were main- tained in excellent condition. In September, 1893, a i-eduction .of 20 to 25 per cent, on the freight tariff was made. All this shows a steady and satisfactory advance, and proves that in Newfoundland, as else\vhere, railways will create a grow- ing traffic for themselves, and when judiciously managed, will give fair returns. The Government sul)sidy of .^45,0u0 per annum, added to the earnings, gives a fail- dividend per annum to the bonddiolders after the exjienses of operation and main- tenance are met. NOTES. A BEMINISCKNCK OF 1878. Tlie first public utterances in favour of a railway, of whieli a jecord lias been jtreserved, occurred in a lecture on " This New- foundlauil of Ours," (klivcicil liv tlie Rev. M. Harvey before the St. .John's Athenanuu on Fcl)niarv 11th, 1878, and afterwards jniblishcd. Tlie following are a few sentences from this lecture : "What we want is a grand trunk railway with branches radiating to all the jirincijial districts. My firm conviction is that New- foumlland has reached tliat stage in which a railway has become iin absolute necessity if she is to make further jirogress ; and that we ought to strain every nerve and submit to almost any sacri- fii'e in oi'iler to olitain tliis gi-nnd necessity of moilern civilization. Look at our iut el ual condition as suggesting the necessity of a railway. What are we going to do with this huge territory of forty-tw(j thousand square miles ? Are we going to leave the interior forever to the wolves and tlie deer ? Are the fine agricultural districts to remain sdlitudes when our own people and the jieojde of other cniintries, who are in need of bread, Avould occupy tliem if they were made accessible, and transform them into smiling farms ? Must our noble forests be left to rot or burn '. Our rn;\] beds and mineral deposits to sleep forever Avlieie bountiful nature has stored them? Shall .our peo^ile cling forever to the rocky shores, and content them- selves ■\\'ith a precarious existence derived from the stormy deep ? Shame on us if we do not rise to a nobler cimception of our des- tiny as a people, and utilize the gifts of a bountiful Providence. "To me it seems that the jiresent generation are brought face to face with the task of constructing a railwav across the island, and that they will prove untrue to their duty if tliey do not lay aside all ])arty consideratioiH ami unitedly and valiantly gird themselves for the work. Think for a moment wliat the con- :fitruction of such a railway means 1 It means the opening up 82 ItOADS AND RAILWAYS. of this gi'L'at if-land — tlie union of it.s eas^tern and wej^tern .-shores- — the working of its lands, forests and minerals; its connection^ by a rapid means of communication, with the neigliboring con-- tinent. It means the increase of its population ; the conversion of the country into a liive of industry; the coiumencenient of a material and social advance to wliicli at present no limits can be set. It means employment and gofxl Avages for the people^ many of whom, alas I are now very scantily supplied with ther poorest necessaries of life — 'too little to live on and too much to die on.' To St. .T dim's itself a railway means a vast increa.se' of business of all kinds, and an advance in the value of real estate. It means ojjenings of all kinds for the talents and ener- gies of the yo;ing generation. But wanting a railway, none of these benefits will come, and we sliall he siuiply at a stand-still, and all the natural resources of the island must remain unde- veloped. "But then it is asked iiow is a poor colouy like this to liuild a railway? We can't afford it. I reply we can"t attbrd to dcv without it. Our poverty is our strongest argument for under- taking it, in order to transform that i)overty into AM-alth. To- me it seems that a railway is perfectly within our reach, if rightly gone about. It is really one of the easiest countries in the world to i)ierce with a railway. AVhat is wanted is that the' people slioidd arouse themselves to the necss>ily of getting a railway and tell their I'epresentatives that it must Ije done, and that if there are difficulties they are sent to the halls of legis-' lation to overcome difficulties an<l to lead the wav in the path of progress. If I were Premiei- of this colony, I would, in Yankee phrase, 'freeze to this railway.' I Avould plot and scheme, and scrape and pare, and revise the tariff, and do everything short of stealing, till I got money enough to build the railway. Ouce it is built, all things are possil)le. Hail I to the great Hereafter, when Newfoundlanders will be making excursions by rail, on their pulilic holidays, to Gander Lake, and holding picnics at the Grand Falls on Exploits Eiver, or dancing parties in the great international hotel in the Hundier KOADS AND IJAILWAYS. 83 Valloy; wliili- ivtuni ticki-ts foi- Japan and Cliina ria the Canada Pacific Railway at rhvap rates, will be sold at tlie Saint John's Railway DcpAt. Nul alile to constnict a i-ailway of tliree or four liuiulred miles, with a revenue of iiearlv a iiiillion dollarsll Well iiiiL;ht we ask — '• Is our civilization a failure, Or is the Caucasian jilayed out .'" The foregoing dreams ot a lecturer are now (1894) seemingly to be soon realized in some fashion ; but sixteen years ago, ^vhen believers in railways were few and far Itetween, it recinired some nei've and moral courage to give utterance to such heretical .opinioirs. Now, liowmer, they are shared bv almost e\eryone, .and the opponents of railways are difiicult to disct)ver. It is the history of all new ideas. They are held at first by a min- .ority of two or thi'ee ; then they gradually spread till the whole inass is leaveneil. In the same lecture occurs the following paragraph on roads : ■"Roads are tyjies of civilization. AVhere there are no roads the people are savages. Where roads are few and bad, law is ^-eak and society semi-barbarous. If you Avant to know Avhether a ])eople is stagnant or progressive, look at their roads. Wherever there are mental activity, enterprise and a liberalizing spirit of ;any kind, you Avill st^e their manifestations in the building of roads for travel and intercourse. All the great epochs of civiliza- tion in the world's history were ages of roads. Nothing marked the splendid era of tlie Roman Empire so strikingly as the mag- nifieent system of roads Avhich radiated from the Forum of Rome to the furthest extremities of the most distant provinces. This is, emphatically, the age of roails, not only of stone but of iron, .along which rushes the iron hoi-se Avith heart of tire, mu.scles of steel and breath of steam. Then, we make roads over the ocean Tjy our steamships, and roads for thought by the telegraph wire ; .and the day is not far distant Avheu the world will be one vast seusorium, with nerves of communication to tiie very ends of the earth." 84 ROADS AM) i;ailwavs. ASBESTOS. -MK. K. H. JONKS. As the new line of railway opens uj) tliat poition o.'' the is- land in whieh asbestos has been ibiind, ami where there is every reason for believing it will Iteeoine a \alual)le branch of onr mining indnstry, the following extracts from a letter which appeared in the Harhimr (,'n(r,' Stamhtnl of May lOth, 1893, from the pen of Mi'. R. H. Jones, will be j'oniid interesting. Mr. .Jones, who is an Englishman, has lieen two years in this country, and has opened an asbesto< mine near Port-au-Poi't. He is an able mineralogist and an expert in asbestos, having Avritten one of the best books on that mint'ral : "Asbestos is serpentine, simply ser2)entine in a tibrous form ; bnt when you ask me how it comes to l)e in that peculiar form, yon go a step or two beyond me. No oni' knows how or why this should l)e so. Asl)estos is by no means the only nuneral which assumes this strange form ; we cannot tell you Avhy. In the present state of oui' knowledge, we simply know that it is- so. It is found in this state in every part of the world, but, strange to say, it is not fouml in any two places alike. It varies not only in colour, but in strangely different forms of crystalli- zation, just accordiug to the 2:ilace in which it is found. It is- most usually found in Canada of a light or dark green colour, sometimes andter, at other times it takes a fine golden tint, although really the colour has little to do with its value for commercial purposes ; because, as a matter of fact, when the fine silky fibre is teased out, it is mostly white, whatever shade it may assume in its rockdike foi-ni. In that state it takes the colour of the nu)ther rock, and that varies very much according to local surroundings. In Australia it is frequently of a bluish green, taking exactly the peculiar colour of the foliage of the eucalyptus, that wonderful Australian tree which has such mani- fohl uses ; and in South Africa, near the Orange River, it is found of a dark Prussian blue colour. In many other idaces, in the Pyrenees and the Savoy, for instance, it is of a pure white. The most valuable (juality is found in the Quebec pro- vince of Lower Canada. Here it takes a singularly beautiful ROADS AND RAILWAYS. 85" form, 1)ut little differing in apjiearauce from the in-oduct of the silk\vt)rm ; whilst in America it ii^iiially appears in a woody state, very often exactly like a brown stick. "No, there is no ashestos of any value in America; that is, according to our present ideas. It is strange that, in all that great country, none has yet been found of tliat beautiful silky texture we are accustomed to in the proiluct of the Canadian mines. Much valuable asbestos, judging from surface indications, is to be found here in Newfoundland, not only on the West Coast, but in many other pails of the island. I fullv believe that I sliall find it as pure, as silky ami as generally valuable as any that lias yet bt-en fcnuid in Canada. The great difficulty is, that this is a roadless country. It is the business of its rulers to ojien it up by means of roads and Ijridges, and until that is done, but little run be undertaken by private individuals to utilize Newfoundland's great mineral wealth. We mav know where her treasures lie, but the difficulty of reaching them, or of utilizing them when found, in tlie a))sence of such means of communication as an- to be found in every other civilized j^art of the world, is far too great. " When did I first come to take an interest in the mineralogy of Newfoundland '. Well, it is very easy to tell you that. On geological grounds I had long been of opinion that tlie peculiar formation in which asliestos in its jmrest form is found in Ca- nada A\as also to be found in Newfoundland. If you will look at a geological map, you will see that the great belt of serpentine which runs through so large a part of Quebec, aj)i)ears and dis- appears frequently, sometimes dijiping under or being overlaid by other rocks, until it finally ci'ops out again and is largelv dis- played in the Peninsula of Gaspe. There it is lost, that is to say, it dips under the sea, but only to reappear again on the western coast of your island. Now, although you may have many hun- dreds of miles of serjientine, it is onlj- here and there and in extremely few places, that any tendency to the fibrous form i>< found. But still, if the formation is the same in that part of Newfoundland where the serpentine is found, then it is only fair 80 TttJADS AND 1;A1LWAYS to assume that the same minerals ^\ hic.li occui- in the Canadian part of the belt Avill also be founil in that part of it which lies in XeAvfoundlaml. Tliis I was iletermined to in\'estigate ; but year after year slipped liy without my being able to undertake the journey. In the spring of last year, however, being in Ca- nada, I went to Ottawa to consult my friend, Dr. Selwyn, the Director of the Geological Survey there ; and lo liim I mentioned my i<leas. ' Well,' said he, ' I am convinced of it. I have long l)een of (jpinion that good asliestos would be found in Xewfound- laml. Indeed, foi' years past, Avhenever any one has come to consult me regarding asbestos, I have always said, 'Go to New- foundland, tliat is wliere you will tind it.' Tliat })ractically decided me, and I determined to go. A little later on in the year I came over here, and the result of my investigation was such that I determined t') })ay your island another visit, to con- tinue the investigation, and if 2>ossible to give effect to the discovery. Yes, I intend to set to work at once, and shall leave by the next coastal steamer for the West Coast, Avith men and material ; and if my efforts meet with success, I l^elieve that it will Vie a good thing for Newfoundland, by amongst other things giving employment to her increasing population, whicli cannot, under present conditions, be kept at home, Init has to go abroad in quest of that which its own land is powerless to afford it. The staple trade of the country is fish, of course, fish Ijefore anything ; but a country is generally }irosperous, in proportion as she has some alternative business to fall back xipon. The fishery may be a bad one some seasons, and the Avhole island suffers ; but, if any part of the population is engaged in some other liusiness in addition to the staple trade, the difficulty and consecpient dis- distress are certainly in some measure amelioi-ated. But to give effect to any of tliese things, the country wants opening uji, so as t:> welcome the inti"oduction of capital. At present it is not so. Louk, for instance, at my own case. I have found asbestos on the West Coast, and wish to give effect to the discovery by opening a mine there ; l)ut, to ilo this I have to encounter extra- ordinary ditticulties. If we had oidy a cattle track t(j pass over KOAltS AND K'All.WAVS. 87 iit would liL' soiUL'tliiug ; luit uuK'.-> iiu-u (if ciifv^v and peisever- xiuco t-aii Ije found to follow up any disi-ovcrv of this kind, tlvi' great mineral wealth of Xewfoundlaud nii^lit just as well, for iill till! benefit the island can derive from it, l)e in Alaska or Tindnictoo. When I reaeh the (Jraxels, at Poit-au-Port, 1 have jibout tAvelve miles to go ; hut the ciniuliv tiiere is in a primeval .state — tliere is noioad or path, oi' even rattle track, conse<|uently we must go hy watei-. All our goods, too, must go by water, and (the jn-oducls of the mines must also go the same way. The coast line here is rugged in, the extreme, and by water, I believe, the ■distance is about 15 miles. Now. >u gieat is ilie ditticulty of thi.s passage occasioned liy the cross currents and sudden sc|ualls pass- ing over the crest ()f the hills, that I have fre/juently been kept out for twelve hours during the trip ; an<l the landing on the a'ocks is, from the state of the surf on that rocky coast, always jnore or less in the nature of a dupwivck. Twice I have had my •dory smashed up, and twice the men were wrecked, and on one ^)Ccasion 1 -was detained on this inhospitable coa.st for three mortal days before Ave couhl launch a lioat to get off. Such .a state of things is discreditable to the countiy, and nothing 1 beliexe 171)1 be found like it in any other jiart of the civilized worhl. Oh, yes] I I'eailily admit that you have got good roads here, .so they liave in St. .John's. You ought to give all honor to Sir Thomas Cochrane for teaching you how to make them and liow to utilize them when made. " Well, ^Ir. Editor, I am afraid I ha\-e occupied a great deal of your time without telling you about asbestos after all. I .should like to have spoken about its many valuable and totally dissimilar uses. It is strange that a mineral substance which ■can be utilized for the manufacture of clothing and even of lace- curtains, is the only substance that will effectually close the breaches of the big guns — the 100 or 110 pounders for instance — so as to prevent the escape of gas when the gun is fired. It ^•an also be used as a covering for balloons for use in warfare, in the manufacture of incoudjustible paper and ink, and for pro- tecting the sides of our ironclads. The number ot uses to which, at can be applied is simply incredible." F 88 liOADS ANT) ItAILAVAY.S. Writing from Loiulon to a friend in Ne"\\"lbuu(llan(l, niidrr date- January 13tli, 1894, ]\Ir. Jones says : — "I am glad you are in- terested witli tlie Corsican iibre" (asbestos). "You are quite- right in regard to its brittleness ; but, all tlie same, it would be made use of if the islanders were not so pig-lieaded aliout tlieir lands. I had a sami)le of it over two feet long. I enclose a sample of Italian 'siltry' (asbestos). This is a lovely fibre, but has the same fault as the Corsican. Tlicrc is nothing to fovch Canadian Glmisotilc" (asbestos), '■•(im^, ax I n-islt tn sliii/i\ Xciv- fovndland (dxo, for genuine, good, all-round ijualities." " 1 will, ^end you, soon, a s])ecinu'n of Africa ii hhir jilin\'' rii.A I'TEi; IV. AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES AND FOREST WEALTH. The jn'fvicnis cliiiplc:- l'uiiii,~lics some gpuei-al idea ol' tlie agii- cnltiu'al lands of tlie island \vliicli the new line of railway will open for settlement. These, we liave seen, are of considerahh' extent and valne, and eajiahli- of sustaining a very large pojmla- tion when reelaimed, wliilc at ]iresent tlieir forest wealth is very great and can now lie turm-d to aeeount. A more detailed ac- count, however, is necessary for the information of those who are disposed to invest capital in lands suited for settlement, and also to aid those M"ho arc dc-irmi^ of settling on the unoccupied lands in finding such local iiais as may repay their industrious efforts. KXTKNT ()|- AKABLK LANDS. To many it will lie a sur[iiisc to find Newfoundland spoken of as an agricultural country. Tlu' prevailing idea, still to some extent prevalent regarding it, is that it is a disnral, Ibg-envehiped country, whose savage climate and jioor soil jireclude all altem]its at agricidture. This is \ery far from being in accordance with facts. It is (juite true that there are wide ti-acts in the island irreclaimably barren ; others unfit for arable purposes, though excellent for grazing ; and dtliers covered with marshes and what the people call "liarrens." Lakes and ponds occujiy a third of the siirface of the whole island. But the same holds good of nu;ch of the United States and Canada, wlierc \ast areas are hopelessly barren and would ne\'er repay cultivation. The agricultural lands of the island lie in belts, and mainly along the valleys through which the jirincipal rivers run, oi' around the heads of the great bays or the margins of the smaller streams. In the aggregate these comprise a very fair projiortion of the whole land area of the island. If we take the whole area ■90 Ai;i;icri;n-i;Ai. KKsontcios. to be 42,000 M)iiai-c iiiilf<, ainl ilriim-t Irnin this dUf-tliird for lakes or ponds, we lia\ c 2S,000 scjiiaic iiiilo, of \v]ii(']i fully ;i Inurtli, or 7,00<) Mjuari- luiK-s, or 4,480,000 acri's, are available for SL'ttlemi'Ut, cither as aialilc land or for ,L;ra/.iii^' purposes, and are eapable of sustaining in cnnifort a vei'v lai'ge nnnd_)er of people. To this must lir added llie lundiering and mineral resources which are cajiable of furnishing employment to many thousands. These are not the random assei-tions of enthusiastic optimists ; they ai-e suslaineil by solid facts whieh cannot be set aside. The evidence in su]i])oi-t of these conclusions is derived mainly from the reports of the (Geological Survey, conducted by scien- tific men who are thoroughly trustworthy ; also from rejiorts of the government surveyors who liave been foi' years engaged in mapping the Crown lan<ls ; as widl as fi-oni tln' accounts given by residents, by intelligent travellers, and olhei-s who have visited various sections of the island. All these, when com bincd, utterly disjjrove the views ix'gardiug the liarrenness of the .soil once entertained and will revolutionize men's ideas regard- ing this neglected and misrepresented islaml. Xt) doubt some writers have erred in the other extreme, and ]tresented accounts too highly coloured. No lasting good can result from exaggera- tions on such a subject, and great injury may be done by awakening unwanantable expectations. The aim ol' the jiresent Avriter is to be guided by facts and to attirm only what is war- ranted l)y these, in the views which he i)resents regarding the jiresent condition and prospects of the country. IVESTERX XEWFOUNWLAM). The Avestern portion of the island, in an agricultural point of A'iew, is by far the most important, having, in addition to a large extent of fertile soil, valual)le forests, coal-tieLls, marble, gy])sum and lime-stone beds and mineral deposits. It is the carbonifer- ous section of the country, the rocks of this formation always underlying gooil soil. Its climate, too, is by many degrees superior to that of tlie eastern or southern slioivs, lieing entiixdy out of the range of fogs, \\liile tlie cold eastei'ly winds blowing ACRICII.Tl'KAL IM-'.SDIIM'HS. 91 over tliL' AlliUitii- arc lumlitird Ik-Ioi'c rcadiiii'^ llic wc-t coast. Now, that it is ojh'Ui'iI up li\' tlir railway, il seems destiueil in tilt' near future tn lieiinni. the ^eat ol' a lar^'e agrieultural iiidus- trv. To tlii.> will he aihleil cattle ami slice] i-iviisiuj;- on an ex- tensive scale, as well a> iiiiniiiL;' ainl luiiiheriu!.;', to .-ay nothinj^' ot" tisliing. The coal heils will not remain much l()ii;j;er umvorked when the lailway louclu's them, 'i'his yraml desideratum is at length seeureil, and western Xewt'oiindland hecomes accessible from lioth east and west, and ]iresent< a w ide tlidd for enteri)rise. It is of inijioi iani-c, thend'on', to ascertain what is the idiarai'tei' of its soil and wliat aie its gx.neral capahilitio. TIU: t ODltOV V.VI.LKYS THlilll COXl'ItiVU.VTrOX. Western Newfoundlaiiil, hecimiiiiL; at l*oit-aux-l>as(pie, com- prises the ("odroy \'alleys, St. George's Bay, I'ori-a-Port, Bay of Islands, Bonne Bay, and the coast of the great northern ]ieninsula to the Straits of Belle Isle, — some four humlred miles in extent. The (ii-eat and Little ( 'odroy ]!i\-eis, which ha\e hut short courses, fall into the sea ahout sixteen miles north of ('a])e IJay and .-ix miles south-easterly from ( 'ape Anguille. Theii- mouths are but a few miles a]iarl. The valley which they drain, ihough of no great (.■xtent coui]iarati\ cd\', is one of the liiiot aui-icidtural dis- tricts in the island, il is hounded on the iioitli-east hy the Cape Bay mountains, rising, rugged and barren, to a height of :^,000 feet. The Cape Anguille i-mge forms its northern boundai-y ; " these,'' says the (icological re]iorl, ''present a soft and gentle outline, while the higher idevations attain an altitmh' of 1,000 to- 1,200 feet, richly coverel hy forest trees nearlv to the summits." The lowei ]iarl of this valley, between the two langes of hills, gives an ex|ianse ol law Hat land, the breadtli of tln' \alley being about tweh'e miles. Ill the upper jiart of the valley the hill- ranges converge towanls each other, and ••the xalley gradually becomes more and more contracted in widih until shut in nearly altogether where the main stream at the end ol' the siiiA'cy be- comes split up among the mountains of the Long Bangc into a succession of small tuibulent mountain lirooks.'' •92 AGRICULTUItAL IIKSQI-KCES. KXTEXT OF <;0<)1) l.AN'I>. TliesL' Coihuv valleys avo alxnit inity miles in lengtli, Avitli ;i ■width of fioiii ten to twelve miles. 'J'here are some marshes and .some i^ortions covered with boulders, Ijut for the most part the soil is cxrellent, and there is nothing to imjjede farming oj^era- tions (lu an extensive scale. The following extract from the Geological rejxirt will convey some idea nf the character of thi region : — " The area occupied hy Im-el or gently undulating laud in the valley amounts, by ruugli nn'asui'cmeut on the plan, about seventy-tive sij^uare miles, (ir 48,000 scpiare acres, a verj large pro[)ortion of which is availalde fur settlement. For th most i)art the country is well Avooded witli stout mixed timber consisting i-hietly of spruce, balsam tirs, ydlow biich, frecpiently of large size, white birch and tamarack. The islands and flats of the lower ]«irt of the Great Codi'oy lv.i\'er yield a luxuriant growth of wild grass, affording an ample su])ply of admirable I'oddei- for cattle. Along the sea-coast, lu'tween Tranvain Brook and the little village of Codroy, the counti-y is partially settleil all the way, the attention of the settlei-s being about equally divided between the cultivation of the land and fishing opera- tions ; but uj) the Great Codroy l!i\e]-, whicli is more or less occiipied on either side of the estuary, the calling of the inliabi- tantsa])])ears to be more jnirely agricultural, and it may be faii'ly stated that, notwithstanding the very lude ju'ocess by which the land is cultivated, the crops produced — of grass, grain and roots — higldy testify to the excellence of the soil in which they are grown. Cattle and sheep are raised upon most of these small farms, producing most excellent beef and mutton, besides dairy l?roduce of the Aery best description. The greater jmi't of the Anguille Range and some of the lower slopes of the Cape Eange are also capable of improvement, ;uid, if cleared of timber and sown in grass, would afford grazing land not easily surpassed iu any country.' THK I.ATEST SllJVKV. A hitei- and moi-e coni])lete topograjihical survey states that the juiiidjer of farm lots in actual jiossession on the coast line and ACRICULTUKAL RESOURCES'. 93 ■sliori'-; of the estuary of Grand River, located and laid off, was 93 in all, Iiaving an average of over 1G3 acres, or a total of 15,204 acres ; and that a further amount of 2,121 acres had been applied for. On tlie Little Codroy River about 8,860 acres were occupied ■or held in ]iussessiou. About 13,421 acics ^vere available in the upper and uii()((Mi])i('d ])orti(jn of the Codi'uy Valley. The total .area of cullivalili' l;niil in the valleys was 56,802 acres. A SmVEYOR'S KErORT. Tlie i-t]Miit nf a ( iovcrnment Surveyor General, made many years ago, stairs tlial the soil in these, valleys consists of a " rich loam capalile of llu- highest degree of cultivation, and fit for the 2n-oduction of any ili'scrijition of crojx" . . . " Ljang to the nort.liward of the xabiablc tract of laud I'd'eiTcd to is found a range of liilly gronud aihaiialdy adapted for grazing, its natural productions consisting of herliage, which early in the sTinimer .attains a height of lictween two and three feet." . . . "It would be (litticulf ii imagine a niore beantiful or picture.sc|ne .scene than the whole [H'e.scnts ; anil whether with reference to the soil around it, to its lisheries or to its geographical situation, forming as it does part of tlie Xorthern Head, and therefore com- jnanding tlu- entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, a more ■desiral)le or iniporlant place for a settlement could scarcely be found." A Ti:.\VEI^LEK"S OIJSERA.YTIONS. A traveller fiom (,'ape Breton, who visited this regicm, wrote of it in the following terms : "The lan<l is hardly surpas,sed by any in the Lower Provinces of Canada for its fertilitj". "We travidled about 24 miles along this beautiful and romantic river. There is a range of good upland extending some nine miles above the settlement. This is studded with l)irch, spruce and fir. Then commences what is called the " Big Interval."' This great tract of rich land I travelled for about 15 miles either side of the river, some places extending over a mile in width. The extent and appearance of this .splendid "interval" struck me so forcibly that I stopped to examine carefull}- tlie natui'e of the soil. I 94 A<;i;i('ri;i'ri;A[> iihsoiuces. could ^-ce along tlic luniks tlia1 thf soil Mas cxrcrdinglv j^-ood aiuf four feft in deptli ; while the grass, hal-aiii, ami balm nf gilcad trees and tall alders ga\ e ju'oot' of its surpassing fertility. " JX'OXOMIC MATEKIAI.S. Tlie Geological Ivepurt fuillier states that "the coal rdck?- were perceived to he ilistrihuted along the hase of the Cajie Ray mountains." "(iyjisuni too is lai-gely ile\e1ope<l on tlie coast near Codroy and in ]5ay St. George. The \ast masses whirh come out in tlie cliti's helweeu Codroy Islam! and the great Goil- roy Eiver can hanlly fail to ]irove s(.)iiie day of gi-eat value and importance. Admiral ile huilding stone is found on Codroy Island and on the great Codroy River." Limestone too is- abundant. Such then is tliis line region whose valless, liy the close of next year, Avill be traversed in their I'Utire length by tlie new railway in its route to Port-aux-Basque. The \alue of all its natural resources will be vastly enhanceil liy the railway Avhich will furnish an outlet for its various products, aud stimulate a variety of iudusti'ies now undreamt of. The great <li'awbaclv to its progress — the want of roads and a market for its agri- cultural and niineial piodnctions, — will now be removed. Although the diuu'Usious of these vallevs are liuuleil, their natui-al capabilities are eouijiaratividy great, and tlioe will noAv be turned to account. Having a favourable climate, fertile soil, enormous development of gypsum and limestone, almridance of tindjer and iiidications of coal and nnnerals, it is evident that the valley is rieli in all lliat ean miiuster to man's romlorl and material progress. Al h'asl ten or twelve thousauil i)eojile unght find a comfortable home here. The ceirsus of 18!Jl gives the population as 508. ST. <;k;()kc;e's ijay— its iMtosrixxs. About 3."; miles lo the north of Codroy is the tine Bay of St, George. More jirojieily it nnght lie called a gulf, lieing 40jui!es- ■wide at its entrance an<l .")() miles in length. It is long and tapering, and receives al its liead and along its southern shore A(ii;iCLj;rri;AL KivSoriiCKs. i).r nnmerous sti'L'anis ami rivers. A iDug low toiiyiu- (if laml luii^ out at tlu' south >iiK' of I lie head ol' lliu liay, foriiiiuL;- an cmiIKmiI liarbour. No-w tliat it is iimii1<m'(m1 aicc^>ilili' hy a i-ailway, IIumt can be no lion) )1 thai the rc^^ioii anuiinl this l)ay is ilc-liinMl, iu the near I'litmc, lo Ihtohu. the sral of a largx' a^nriiaillurah min- ing and liuiiln'riiii;' popuhitioii. When \vc lake into arcoiuit the- oxtensive li'acts of fiTtih- lamls aionml the shores, tln' (|iianlity and exeellenee of the timhei', tlie minerals and coal-lieils. indi- cations of wliirli are aliundanl, and add to this the sujierior climate it enjoys, it .-eems e\ciy way likelv it will yet heeome the garden of Newfoundland. Towns and \illai;es \\ ill yet dot its shores, and a ]iro>|iei'ous ]io]iulation will oeia!]iy its vallov.-i and liills. Tlioe are not tln' \isious of an enthusiast, Imt views- which rest on an ai'ray of sober facts. After ri'Jieated .--Ul-Veys, the (leoloeiral lieports stale the extent of land available for settlement at oliO s([uai-e miles. The smith side of 8t. George's l-iay was, in JSSo, laid out in ten lowiishijis containing 340 s(|uare miles, of which it was calculate<l I'llO wei'e capable of a high degice of culti\'ation. The geological forma- tion is cliielly carlionifei'ons, which really means that the soil is of the besi iu the c(iuutry. The same formation in ( 'anada affords the nRi>t \abiable agriculluial land. The soil is so good, t<ay.s the rejiort, that the settlers ha\'e, iu some cases, worked the same ground for twenty years iu succession without the use f)f manure. The district is well Avatered. The rivers ( 'rabl), I'^ishebs, Barachois, IJobinsonV, and Flat liay all How west from the Long Range Mountains into St. George's Bay. Though shallo\\- they are smooth-Howiug exce])t at the heads, and are Avell stocked with fish. They all run through excellent land which is co\i-i'ed with large timber, principally birch, spruce, tii' ami ])oplar. Grabb's River region is especially gooil. it is the northern boundiary of a settlement of Gape Breton Scotchnu-n who ]ia\-e enngrated to the coast between it and the Anguille Range of mountains dm ing the last i.") year>. These Scotch ]H'o]ile are vei'V thrift\-, and luive here car\"ed (ait comhirtable homes for themselves. Tlu'V have looms, and \\ea\'e I'rom wnol of their oA\'n yrowiuL;' all the" OG AGKICULTURAL EESOUKCES. Elotliiug lliey uwd ov u.se. North of tliciii, :uul extending to th Baracliois, is a large settlement of Englislimeii wlio came chiefly .from tJie ssoiith coast of the island. CiEOLOGICAI. SURVEY RErORT. Here are a fe^^' extracts from the Geological Survey Reijorts which present this region in a very favonrahle light : " North - eastward from the terminating point nf tlie Cape AnguilLi mountains, the whole country between the coast and the Long Range is of a flat or undulatory characlcr, densely coA'ered with forest trees, except in such parts as ha\(' liccn swept by fire, or occasional tracts of marsh. The trees of this i'orest consist of ■white and bellow birch, spruce and lialsam, iir, poplar, tama- rack or larcli. Much of the timber of this gi^at plateau is very large. Trees of yellow and white lurch are frei|neutly met with, and ])artieu]arly on the river flats, ha\-iug a diameter of three feet, anil even more, many of which are la.ll and straight, re- sembling the hardwood forests of Cajiada. Spruce, balsam, poplars and tamaracks also reach a maximum size and seem to be of excellent ([uality." . . . "These valleys and much of the higher lands, now primeval ^\•ihlel■ness, a})pear to be nearly in every respect well adapted for agricultural settlement. By deducting the tract occu^jied by the Auguille Range of hills, amounting to 256 square miles, which is too high and too steep for ordinary tillage, although well-suited as runs for sheep or cattle, tlu' reuuiinder of the block, ^iz., oCO si[uare luiles, is certainly to a large entent reclaimable ; and tliere can be but little doulit lliat the construction of roads, which must necessa- rily be the conserpience of occupation, together Avith the clearing of the foi-est, will lead to mineral discoveries of vast imjiortance to the Colony. . . . Tracts of considerable extent upon tlie coast, and nearly all tlie valleys of tlie ])rinci2)al streams, bear a soil of the most fertile description, which is even already shown by the few and rudely cultivated sjiots here and there where the produce in grass, green crops, and even cereals are all first class both in (quantity and ([uality. The richness of the soil at this part of tlie coast is jiroliably due to the calcareous material AOlilCULTUItAL IJKSOritCES. 97 ■Jerived from llic ailj'aceut nioiiutaiiis, logotlier witli the disinte- gration of the trai>i)ean rocks of \vlii(.-li the sub-soil is conqiosed.' KIVIERE BLANCHE. Of Riviere l^lauche a river falling into St. George's Bay near Indian Head, the Ei'port says : — " This I'ivur was measured about six miles up its course. A block of rich Hat land, sujoported on members of the carboniferous series, is shut in, as it were, by the :Silurian mountains on the nm-tli and west, and by the Indian Head Range on tlic cast, whicli is chietly (h-ained by the Riviere Blanche and Roniain's or Kippen's brook. The area of the block is between 30 ami 40 scpiare miles or about 22,400 acres. The whole of this area (cxee]iting the small (dearings at the mouths •of the streams) is dcnscdy covered witli forests of large and vigor* ous growth, with aljundance of yellow bircli, spruce, fir and other trees, but scarcely any pine " HAKRY'S liKOOK VALLEY. "The valley of Harry's Brook, al)ove the western fork, is rug- ged and barren for the greater part, and much of it is hilly and mountainous. Below the junction of Spruce Brook jiatches of good land begin tn ajipear, chietly on the right bank ; and back from the lower reaches, on the same side, there is a broad tract of very good country. The islands and low banks near the out- let are of the Ijest soil for grass meadows. To the south-east ot Spruce Brook nearly the whole c(.)iinti'v is s])read over by vast marshes which extend u]> to the Hanks of the hills on the south- west side (jf the (rraml Lake.'' TEXINSULA OF rOKT-A-1'ORT. Xoilh of St. (Jeorge's Bay extends the small peninsida of Tort- a-Port, between it and the Bay (4' L-lands. The mineral indi- cations are of the most i)romising ehai-acter and warrant the expectation that it will one day l)e a mining centre. A lead mine was opened here manv years ago, but ov.-ing to the jealousies ■of the Fi'cnch, who have lishing riglits on tliis coast, the Imperial Autlun'ities ordered operations to be susjicnded. Such orders, howevei-, would not be issued now. Cojiper and asbestos have 98 AGiarr];m;AL UKsoriaKs. iilso l)et'ii fuiniil li(')i_'. Its agTirultur.il caiialiilitic.-, Imwi-w-i-, aiv i'ar I'rounk'sjiicalilc. The (leoloo-iral Ifrpin-l states thai there ari' nearly 100 .s[Uare iiiih-s iu the pi'uiiisiUa avaihiUe I'ur at^rieul- tural i)ur2)0ses. A luxuriant grass grows in certain ]ilai.'es ; -while the timber in sdiiie portions is ol' good (|nality t(jnsisting of -white spruce, balsam, hr, and vellow liirch (eommonly known as witch- hazel). The \-iilh'y of Benoit's lirook contains an area of ('Af square miles, at least one-half of wliicli could lie reclaimeih The whole area of the valley of Serpentine IJivei- is aliout oS scpiare miles, mucli of the lowei- lands being of gooil soil. Here loo, are found ])ine and tamarack trees of large size. The recent dis-- covery of asbestos here is niost promising. ST. OKOltOK'S COAT. VlKTAt. In addition to the resources of tins i-egion already enumerated it should be I'lanendiered that St. Georges Bay contains a large coal-field, not less than twenty miles in width and ten in length, awaiting develo]iment. The discovereil seams are four feet, thi-ee and a half and one and a half fe(-t thick ivsjiecti\ely. ( 'ompeteut authorities lia\'e cahulated thai if shipments ut :^.")0,00O tons ]ier year were maih' the coal-beds of St. Cie(a-,ue's Bay would not lie exhausted in a century. Further acctamt i- reser\-ed for the (diapter on the ndneral weahh of the islam'. oTiiKit ix<)No:>ii(' ijKsoi i:ci:s. Tlie Rejiort already i[Uoted contains the following: — "Tin' innuense gy]>sum deposits, so frei[Uently met with thi-oughout this region cannot fail to become of con-iderabK- economic im- poitance in tlie future, esjiecially as mucli of it ]iartakes of the character known as alabastio-. It^ value a> a lertilizer w hen tlie country becomes settled witli an agricultural populalion, can hardly be o\'er-eslimaled. ]\lany substances of udiior inqioitance, such as liuilding stones, linn'stones, brick-clays, grindstoiu^s, whet- stones, etc., occui' in abundance. The Laureutian hills in the rear give promise of considerable deposits of ii-on ores, liouhlei-s and fragments n|' which are i'ound plenlilully di.-tributeil along the beds of the ininciiial sti'eani^. These and other less known Ai:i;i(ri,Tri;Ai. itKsoiKcKs. 90 j'esoiii-ci's, coiiiliiin'il witli ilif ui'<'all.v >u])ci'i(ii- eliaracter of llie -ioil, must in time ri-inlcr the ilistrict of St. (icorge's Bay oin- of llif most tloiirisliiui;- au'l |ii-iis]iciims in the i.-laml of Xcwfoiiiul- Jand." .lIONSKiNOK SKAllS' OPIXIOX. Till' latr Very ]\v\. ]^Joiisigiinr Si-ars, \vlio s]K'iit many yi^ars in ^t. Ck'orgi'"s Bay, wrote (if it as follows : — "As tlic snil here is .surpassingly piodurtivi-, c.sjje.-ially in tlic growth of various grasses, 1 lielievc tlirrc is no country in our latitude to .surijas^s it for grazing .sliui-p or lattlc \Micrc'Vcr tlio tn-cs are I'eiuoved by tire, wind or other lauscs, a sjiontaneous growth of grass S2)rings u]).' He ti'lls of nie.nldw.- wliirh he has known giving hay for llie last nineteen vears, and "the nineteenth erop better than the first." "The wood is almndant and of e.xcellent (piality, especi- jiUy the hircli foi fuel and s]iipl)uildiug. UK. JOHN IJKLI. ON ST. GEOK<ifS. So fai' hack as ]87(), ])r. John Bell, M. A., M. I)., of Montreal, s]ient ])art of a suunner on tin- "West Coast, and afterwards ]>uli- lished an account of liis visit in tlie Canailian Xdtii.ralist. The following is an extraet from one of his papers : — "Along the river Hats, in the valleys and oji the 'barrens' when these are draine<l au'l the country is a little more i leared, there "will be room for thousands of fainis, and tlie hills will afford walks for iiumensc flocks of sheeji, and pasture for countless herds of cattle, the. surplus of which will hud a ready market at the ports and fishing stations, at the lumljering, manufacturing and mining establish- nients, which ere long will inake this oLl and neglected colony j)ne vast scene of active and pi'ofitaljle industry. The climate of the island is favoural)le to tlie develojjments of its agricultural resources of every kind. Instead of the cold foggy atmosphere which is generally supposed to hang over the island, quite the revei'se ivS the case. The air is (dear and warm, and the temjiera- ture iluring the year remarkably erpiable, the mercury iu winter siddom falling below zero of Fahrenheit's scale, or in summer rising above 80 degrees. I never saw finer Aveather than duriu'' 100 AGTiTCi^TTTrjjAr. iiE.sorKCK.s. tlie two moutlis I was on tin.- i.-laiid. It is only on Ihc sdiitli- west corner tliat fogs jnwail to any exti.'nt, tVoni tlic [noxiniity of that jmrt to the Gnlf Stream.'' All this natural weahli lias liitlierto remained dormant and un- developed from tlu- want of a railway ti» 0])en U]) tile country. The advent of this great agent of civilization will create anew era in the history of tliis region. Its fi.s]a'rie8, too, will receive anew impulse fiom the same cause. St. George's ]',ay is one of the great seats of the lienang fishery. The tinest herrings are taken here in aluindance ; hut hithei'to this tlsh(-ry has Ijcen prosecuted with little enei-gy or siu'cess. Cod, salmon and smelts are also ahundant. 15AY OF ISLANDS. About 50 miles from the north head of St. George's Bay the Bay of Islands ojiens, famous for its magniticent scenery. Its entrance, which is fifteen nnles in width, is stud(h-d with lofty islands. This fine region, only second to St. ( leorge's Bay in re- gard fo its lands, tindn r and mineral wealth, contains as yi-t 1)Ut a small jiopulation. There are several arms extending from its eastern side, hut the most imi)ortant is that known as the Hum- ber Soimd, 28 miles in length, which receives at its head the Humher River, the .second largest in the i.sland. To the south of this Sound rises the fine Blomidon hill-range, some of whose summits are from 1,000 to 1,500 feet in height. On apjjroach- ing the Hundier their height and abruptness gradually level down until on the banks they do not rise higher than three hun- <lred feet, while they present to the eye a rich clothing of the most varied foliage, whii-h goes down to the water's edge. This, liowever, does not hold good on the first or lower course of the river, which passes through a narrow gorge nearly three miles in length, shut in by precipitous rocks whicli shoot up several hundred feet perj)endicularly and present a scene of marvellous grandeur. At the termination of this gorge the Humber river widens, the hills recede, and tlu' stream flows throTigh a fine valley from three fo se\en miles widi' till the lower end of Deer Lake is reached, twelve miles from the Sound. In the report of AtililCULlUItAL liE.SOUECES. lOl tlie Geological Sur\ey it is .stated that the rise I'rctin tlie sea to' the level of Deer Lake is only ten feet. Deer Lake tlironj;li which the Huniber Hows is fifteen miles in leiii^tli ami three in breadth. Around it, es])e('ially to the eastward and n<irUiward, is a fine expanse ni' Hat rolling country, rearliiiig i\^\■■<\v in tlie former dii'ection towai-ds (Iraml Lake. The reader is referred lo the previous chapter, nn tlie new line of railway, for an acronnt of tlie agiicidturnl, hiinliering and mineral resources of the Great Humber Valley and the Bay of Island.s. Tliere it is >liown tliat the area of the Hundjer Valley is 800 S(piare iiiile>, of whicli fully oni'dialf contains soil of a superior chaiacter, capalile of lieing cultivated to ailvantage. The forest wealth is al-o great ; wliile half (d' the reiiiaiiiiug 400 Sf[uare miles coni}iare la\()uraVily with most of the laud cleared and cultivated on the eastern sea-board Oue sliiking feature of this region is the new cnal tield recently disco\ered iu the vicinity of Grand Lake, ;iud whicli is now being tested. The .splendid herring ti she ly of Lay of Islands will be greatly bene- fited by the opeiung of till' railway and will speedily develojie into very large pro[iortion.--. C<):\ll'AKATIVE KKl'OKT. The Eeport of tlu' (ieological Survey remarks: — '-Thousands of scj^uare miles have been laid out in townshij)s, and already h-ettled, in Canada, eitlui' for the purjjose of lundx'iing or farm- ing, on tlie northern shores of Lake Huron and many parts of the Lower Provinces, far inferior in most respects to this I'cgion of Newfoundland, which tliere can scarcely be a dr)ubt is cap- able of sujiporting a very large population." In this valley of the Humber many thousands might find employment iu agiicul- ture, while those living on the lower reaches of the riser and on the banks of the Sound could comlnne fishing, lundjering and ship-building Avitli faiiuing. IJO>Ts'E BAY. North of the Lay of Islands another fine bay opens named Eonne Bay, the sceneiy of which is verv fine. It has not vet 102 Aia'Jcrr.TI-llAL KESOl-JtCKS, lieeu f^ui'wveil and i> lint ]i;ii-tially known. .Indi^iiii^- liy the re- ports of those wlio ivsidc in tliis lijiy, there is aronnd its shores .;l vei'V eonsi(k^ralih' extent of tfood hind, giving excelkait crops wlien riiltivrtted, and a still larger area suitahle for grazing pur- poses. The herring tishcrx of Boinu- Bay has long been cele- brated, the (quality of llic hen-ing taken here, as A\(dl as in tlie Bay of Islands, being (■(|ual to thr liest Labrador ailicle. NOHTHKKN I'KXIXSULA. In regard to the liay> fnrther north little is known ; bnt casual visitors concur in declaring that at the heads of nearly all these north-westein and nortlu'rii b,iys theiv are laigv stretches of good land: so that farming could be conibim'd with fishing, by sett- lers, with great adxantage. XtRKAT PLAIN ACROSS THK ISLAND— HU^niKR AALLKY TO HALL'S BAY. From the Hundjer district to Hall's Bay, an arm of Notre Dame Bay, on the northeastern coast, a level plain extends across the island, the greatest height of land betMeen these two points not exceeding 200 feet. From Humber Sound to HallV Bay the .distance is 100 miles. In this jdain the land is in many places excellent and of considerable extent, the tind)er abundant and ^jf large size, and the mineral indications at several points of a very promising character. At one time it was designed to cou- struct a common road along this plain, and a survey Avas made in 1878, but the project was not carried out. The surveyor's re- port furnislietl full information regarding tlie soil, timber, mine- rals and other features of this great jdain, from which it appeared that from 5,000 to 8,000 jjcople could settle here with every prospect of making comfortable homes for themselves, as farmers, 1uml)ernuii or niiiu-i's. Ere long, it may be safely athrnied, a liran(di line of railway will connect this region with the grand ti'mdc line, and so op'.'U U]> the great plain for settlement. A jdiain of small lakes with rivers flowing from them, extends from Hall's Bav to the shores of Grand Lake, with onlv one HJi-taLTc a mile in width. From (irand Lake the route lies A(ii!rrri.Tii;AL i;i:s( »i lii Ks. 10;> .afi'dss ;i ])oita^f nine miles wide, ami lln- Humlicr i-iwr is ivaclu'd. Till' scenery alony this |ilain, csiiccially at tlic l^)irrliv Ponds, is vfi-y Ijeautit'ul, and sr\cial places riiiii|)aic imt un- }Vvonial»]y witli tlie lake sccnciN <>[' the Jiritisji Isles. iJanie of vai-ions kinds is almndant, and ilci r aie met with in large nnm- 1>ers. The snrvevor said in his ic|iiirt thai the Indian Brook Valley, which opens into Hall- Hay, cunlains "jU s^nare miles or 32,000 acres oi' land availahh- i'nv larming jmrposes Avliicli would give 80 acres each to 400 lamilics ; and that the aiea of timber- hearing land is not less than loo sipiari' miles. The timber is principally white pine, white ami lilaek s|)rnce, white birch ancl tir. The pines vary IVum one i'nnt to three and a half feet in ■ diameter at the butt. I'ldbrtunatidy, the tindjei- in Indian Brook Valley lias been swejit nxry by tire, and although left standing, it gives the country a desolate ajipearance. "• Tlie soil is of a rich, sandy loam, easily worked." "There is still a con- siderable ([uantity of timlier available foi- lumberers, and a very large ([uantity suitable for farmers and Imilders." MINKKALS. "Tliei'e is a jirobabilitv that (■o[)per may be fouml in the ■ eastern section of the jilain. The chloritic slates, which are .so rich in cojJper on the sea-coast, are found in several localities ■ on this route, and traces of copjier and iron jiyrites are observ- able at a point about two nules in from the south-Avest arm of Notre Dame Bay; also about four miles in, and at the east and west extremities of Indian Pond." "There are several marshes which are not deep, having a .-olid bottom at the depth of two or three feet, and these if drained Avoidd make very good mea- dow land. On both sides of Slioal Pond the soil is of a ri<-li sandy loam." THF GREAT A ALLKV OK THK EXPLOITS. Reference has been made in the ])receding chapter to the Valley of the E.xploits, through a ])ortion of which the new line of railway runs. The bay of Exploits forms a deep) l)ighfc on the south coast of the gu-at bav of Xotre Dame. It has 104 AOrJCULTL'KAL I!KS()ri;( KS. luuaeruus arms, tlu' f^reatcst ln'iiig tin- inlet wliirh k-ails to the' entrance of tlie Exploits River. There are se\ci'al islands in this arm, the princi])al being Tlnvart Island on the eastern side. The water is <leep, and there is no impediment to navigation for wssels of any si/e until reaching Peter's Arm, where there i*< good anchorage. The entrance to the Hxjiloits L*i\er is at Wigwam Point, in lat. 49 .")" N., long. .")") 19" \V. Immediately opl>osite this entrance is Xorris's Arm, stretching for alxmt six miles a little north of east, with an avei-ige width rarely exceed- ing half a mile, at the head of which another consideralde .stream falls in from the eastward. The Ivvploits River takes its rise near the south-western angle of llu- island, within a moderate distance of St. (reorge'-s Bay. A\'ith its nunievous- tributaries it drains an area of 4000 sipiare miles, and reaches- the sea after a course of 200 miles. The valley may be divided into two sections — the lower ex- tending from Red Indian Lake to the sea, a distance of seventy to eighty miles ; and the u]>per from this lake to the sources of the- river. LOAVKK KXPLOITS A'ALLEY. In its course from Red Indian Lake downwards the Ex^doits receives the waters of eight tributaries, the largest being Great Battling Brook, Chute, Sandy and Badger Brooks, while foui' large streams disch;uge into the lake itself. The smaller tribu- taries are very numerous. The following extract from the Geological report will give eome idea of the soil and timber : — " The main river valley^ from Red Indian Lake downwards, is nearly for the whole dis- tance a level or gently nnditlating country, broken only Ijy oc- casional abrupt hills or locky eminences, and densely wooded for many miles l)ack from either bank of the stream The forests of the Exploits Valley consist of pine, spruce, balsam, fir, tamarack, white Inrcli and i)02)lar. The (quality of the sjion- taneons productions may fairly be taken as indicative of a fer- tile soil. The^Avidth of this fertile belt of land varies at different parts of the rivc^r ; but taking its avei'age about t^\■o miles on A(;i;i(i i.Tri;Ai. i;KSori!(Es. IOr»- / titlier side (;iiul it }iii>!iaM\ i> iinuli more), tliciv would l.c uii area of reclainiaLlc counlry of -280 square miles, or 179,200 acres." The report ai Ms : "At tlie iiioiitli of the river the re- claimahle laud extends In the unrtlnvard for almiit five iiiih-s, terunuatiu<T Avitli the northern arm; and there are large tracts aljout Xorris'.s Arm and in tin- valley of the Great Eattling Brook which are ca]>alile of cullivatiou. The fertility of the soil at this part of the region is amjily testifietl wherever culti- vation has heeu attenqited. ]irniluring roots, potatoes, grass and other crop.s of the tine.-t de.-rriptinu ; while as a grazing or stock- raising country it can liaidly tie .-nrpassed. The surface soil is generally of sand or sandy loam, which at the upjjer end of the Aiilley is underlaid hy a di-ift of day and gravel, while at the lower parts the subsoil is tenaiious, Iduish, or diah-coloured clay Avhicli is occasionally slightly calcareous." . . . " Xo ohser- vaut jierson A'isiting the valley of tde Exploits could fail to he impressed with the manifohl advantages it presents for the jn'ose- cution of industrial i)Uisnits, such as lumbering and agriculture. With a sjilendid ri\ei', almudaul timber and a fertile soil, the region that is now a w ilderne>s might, by energy and enterprise, be soon converted inln a tliriving settlement, maintaining a large population." UPi'Ki: i:xri.<)iT.s' ^'^\XLEY. Above Red Indian Lake the river is divided into two Ijranches — the main river, or Exjiloits 2)roper, and the Victoria branch. The former rises not more than twelve miles from the sea-coast, Hows through. George TV. Lake and several smaller ponds. From this lake the course of the river is remarkably straight, in a north-easterly direction, till it joins the Red Indian Lake at the end of upwards of forty miles. The Red Indian Lake is four hundred and sixty-eight feet aliove the level of the sea. The Victoria branch of the Exploits takes its origin between the AVhite Bear and Grandy"s Brook waters, which interlock each other, and the eastern bi;-,nch of the La Poile, and it flows gene- rally nearly parallel Avith the main river to its junction with the Red Indian Lake, about four miles above the inlet. South-west lOG AiiRicn.Tri.'Ai. iiksources. IVoiu tliat junction, at tin' end nf Idt-f y-.^even miles, tlie liver ex- painls into a niagniticent slu-ct ol' water caileil Victoria Lake, whicli is sixteen miles long liv an average lireadth of tliree- (^uarters of a mile. Tlie diaiacier of the country tlirougU whicli these streams How is Aaried. Sonlli of King George IV. Lake " the country is one va>t desolation of liare rock with marshes interspersed." On the lelt Kank of the Victoria there are areas of well-timbered land, aveiagin- tive miles in width, ami rich "interval lands'" lietween Lloyds Tond and Kc(l Indian Lake. " Sixteen miles u}) the A'icloria River the country greatly im- proves, and a huge tract, widl wooded, generally level an<l •covered by a good soil, ]ire\ails lusirly up to Victoria Lake. This level and recLiimable laml sei-ms to ext-nd eastward, with .a few interruptions, to thi- < heat Rattling Brook." HAI>F A >IILL,IOX Af'HICS I^T FOR SETTLEMENT. The conclusion of the (reological Surveyor is that there are, upon the Exploits alone, 800 sipiaic miles, or 512,000 square -acres, more or less capable of sup[iorting settlement, including arable and pasture lands. "'I'lie ])ine timber, sjiruce, tamarack and birch over extensive ai'cas, are of excellent quality and vigorous growth.'" THE VAT.LEV Ol" THE <iAXI>EK. The next great agricidtiiial ana is the Gander Valley, which .surpas.ses even that of the Exjildits. Including the neighbour- ing Gambo and Terra No\a valleys, there is here an area of 1,700 square miles, or ], 088,000 s(piare acres, available for settle- ment according to the estimate of the ({eological Survey. The to]iogra])hy of this region has been alrea<ly otitlined in the pre- ceding chapter, as mcII as the rharai-lei' of its soil and tindn-r. Here we have the finest liiiidieiing section in the island. In addition to the extracts fiom the (leological reports already i,dven, the following will be found <if interest : — "Of this great expanse of country a aii\ laige projiortion, particularly east- ward from the main rivei-, is of licli and fertile soil, as amply testified lo by its indigenous produce, which to a great extent AOrjCTLTUUAL liKSOUKCES. 107 consist of 2)iue ami sjnuce of a sui>erior size and description * * Witli the almost ;iniivaled ca])aliilities tlie country possesses for grass growing, breeding ami rearing oF stock can liai-dly fail to become one of the givat future imlustrics of the province-. "- * * Nowhere else in the island is there seen anything like tlie ([uan- tity of jiine timber, to be met witli Iiere ; and although the soil on the western side of the island is rirher in some 2')laces, this country, taking all its advantages intn (■(insi(h-ration, offers more immediate inducement to settlers."' (TJiis -was Avritten liefore the railway leached western Xewrnuudlaud.) THE GAMliO COUNTliY. The Rejiort states as follows :-—" 'Jlu' tindu-i' on the Cambo, especially in the valley of tlie Triton IJiver, i> nl-iv tine. Pine is abundant, and though m)t so large as that of tlie (iander, is of excellent ([uality. The white In'rcli, spruce and tir, along the banks of the river, are ]-euiark;il)ly tine ; indeed I have seldom ."^een finer in any part of the island. The land a\ailalile for general agriculture in the \-alley of the (Jandio is not extensive, being chietly confined to the alhn ial Hats on either side of the river. These, howevei', are iVe([Uently lirhly luxuriant, as testi- fied by the indigenous vegetati<in, especially in the \alley of the Triton River where they are geui-rally u]i\vaiiN of a udle in width." TOPOGKAriiV OF THK GAMIJO. "The Gamlio Kiver is approaclied from the sea by a long, naiaow arm of the great bay of 15ona\ista, wliirh stretches in- land some twenty miles from the o]n'n water of tlie latter, bearing generally south-west by \\est, and north-east bv east. The livei- enters at its exti'enie head, its mouth being >iluated in lat. 48° 46' 5" and long. 54° li' 32". Two ndles ami Ihree-ijunrters from its outlet, it exjiands into a long narrow lake, known to the lumber-men as the First or Lower (Jambo Pond. It then con- tracts at a place called the Straits Ibi' a little over a nnle, and expands again into the Second oi- l'p])er (Jaudio I'dud, nearlv equal in length to the first, but suniewhat wider. ' 108 AGRICULTri.ML RKSOUltCES. SMALLER AGKICT LTUi: AL SECTIONS. Wu have now gone over tlie great agricultural regions on the Avestern ami eastern divisions u[' tlie islands, and shown the ex- tent and character of the lands suited for settlement in those regions, as well as their chief topograjjhical features. Tlie smaller ti'aets of land fitted for agricultural operations are too numerous to admit of a iletailed account. They are found along the hanks of the smaller .-^treain^ and around the heads of all tlie great bays. In many places they are in small and detached jiatclies, witli large stretclies of swampy, rocky, or huulder- eovered land between ; but uniti'd, they constitute a large area of valualile land. The principal of these minor farming districts are in Bonavista Bay, arouud thi' >lHircs and arms of wliicli there is much fertile soil ; the nortli si(h' of Smitli's Sound, Trinity l>ay, Placentia Bay, St. Mary's Pcnin-ula, and esjiecially the f^alnionier Arm of that bay. Thuugh much of the great Penin- .sula of Avalon consist of a ]>nL)r, roiky, swampy or absolutely barren soil ; yet tlu-re are, hei>' and there, wide area^ of soil wliich a<lmit of ju-ofitable cultivation, and which when duly treated with manure, yield excrUent root-crops of all kinds, as Avell as oats, liarley and luxuriant grass-crojw. The gardens and cultivated areas in the neighbourhood of nearly all the settlements in Avalon l)ear witness to this ; and the neat and comfortable farmsteads along the various I'oads testify to the industry of the people. Avalon, liowi'vei', is specially adapted to becouu' a cattle and shee])-raising region. lis rather thin soil furnishes ad- mirable grazing ground, au'l extensive areas of it miglit be thus turned to protitable account. A TOWNSHIP SUltVEY. That ]iait of Ax'alon, whicli lic-s between ('once[)tion and Trinity Bays, and tliiough which llie j'ailway i'rom St. John's to Harbour Grace runs, has bei^n laid out in towushijis, in order to promote settlement, and witli satisfactory I'esults. The town- ships are each >ix mih's scpiare, and tlius contain thirty-six .s(j[uare miles, 'i'hey are sul)-ilivided into S(piare mile blocks, A(:;ki('Ultui;al itEsourtCES. 100 ^aeli having its own imiuber, the numbers ranging from one to thirty-six, and are arranged on a maji. Eacli square mile again Is snb-divided into four equal parts, each containing one hun- ^Ired and sixty acrt's, wliich constitute a farm. This township survey lias made known many valuable tracts of land where previously none was su])posed to exist. The proximity of the railway has greatly enhanced their value. The land reclaimed iiud cultivated in thi' neighbourhood of Whitl)ourne, where a pretty \ illage is growing up, is an illustration of the revolution wrought liy tin- introduction of a railway. A large quantity of gooil timbei- li:is lieen cut along portions of this locality, and niore remains to be utilized. The total area of reclaimable land evQii in this unpromising section of the counti-y is far greater than might be suj)posed, so that numljers of farms might be located here at no great distance from the railway. The eight townships laid out lure contain seventy s(piai'e miles, or 48,800 iicres, of fairly gill Milam I. This wouhl give four hundred and forty-eight farms nf nue hundred acres each. TKST13IONY OF COMPETENT 3IEX. In corroboration of the reports of professional and scientific jnen, it may not be amiss to rite the opinions of some other com- petent jtidges in regard to the agricultural capabilities of the island. Sir .b)lin Haivey was appointed Governor of New- founilland in 1842. He \\as a man of much intelligence and energy, and was well actpiainted with Canada and the Lower Provinces. In one of his s])eeches at the opening of the Legis- lature, he used the following words: — "And here I will not deny niyself the satisfaction of recording this public declaration ■of my conviction, deri\-ed from such observation and information as a residence in the island for np^'ards of a yi'ar has enabled me to acquire, that, both as regards climate and agricultural capabilities, Newfoundland in many respects need not shrink from a comparison with the most favoured provinces of Xorth America. Its summers, though short, enjoy an extraordinary degree of vegetative power, which only recpiires to be duly taken advantage of ; its winters are neither unu.-ually long nor severe ; no AGRrf'iLTri.'Ar, i;Ksf»ri;cES. and its autumnal seasons aic as opi-n .unl Hm- as those of any of the neiglilxmring colonic--. In jxiinl <>{' liili natural grasses, na ])art of British Xoi'tli Anu-riia ])i(>iluees greater abundance. — Newfoundland, in fact, a])pears to uw calculated to become es-- sentially a rich grazing count ly, ami its varied agricultural resources appear only to re([uirc roads and settlements to force them into highly remunerative (U'\clopinent."' It should be re- membered that lie spoke in the>c terms of the island, being ac(|uainted only with the jioorest jiortions around a ])ortion of the eastern coast and bays. Tlic very existence of the fine valleys descrilied in the prccc(ling pages was unknown in his day. SIK It. BONNYCASTI.E. Sir Eicharil Bonnycastle, a military officer of distinct ioiL who- s]ient some years in the island, and has written one of the best books on the country, was strongly impressed with its agricul- tural resoui'ces. His work bears the date of 1842, and in it lie- earnestly advocates colonization and agricultui'al development. He speaks of Newfoundland as " possessing a climatt' of extra- ordinary salubrity," ami jaedicted that if opened up for settle- ment it Avould "take its rank amongst the more flourishing colonies of the neighlinuring continent." He enumerated among the vegetable productions which he saw groAving and thriving admiral ily, cucumbei'S, melons, cabbages, cauliflowers, l)roccoli, parsnips, carrots, peas, potatoes. "The garden straw! lerry and raspberry of every variety thriw without more than the usual care. Potatoes, oats, turni2>s and all the necessary \('getables can readily l)e reared, even on the very wor.-t portions of such a wilderness as that of the littoral." . . . "The veiy worst portion of the soil is that in the neighbourhood ot St. .John's,. and yet here, in all directions, the jilough speeds and the ancient forest has vanished." Bonnycastle's reference to the soil in the neighbourhood of St. .lohn's is correct. It is among.st the poorest in the island. More- H\'er, as this is the most easterly projection of the coast, it is that {m which the effects of the Arctic current are most felt and the AGEICULTinAL I^ESOlTvCES. Ill harsli easterly wiiul.- aiv most diilly, and yet in cvi'iy ilircrtiou for miles around tile city arc wcU-cuItivateil, proiUutivc larms, and a considerable i'arminc- ]Mi|nilati<jn. Oats and luirlcv of the best quality are grown, and even wluat has been tried with suc- cess, as an exjieriment. " The disiric t t>l' St. John's," says Bouuy- castle, "is especially well adapted for a grazing country, and the imi^orted and home-raised catlU' look as plumj) and as sleek as those of any other part of the world : and I have seen cows at some of the farms which wnuM nol discredit the dairies of Devon." AGRICLI.Tl UAI. .SHOAV. Since Bonnycastle's day farming around St. John's lias jnade ' great advances, and a superior stock of cattle and sheep has been introduced. The annual agricultural shows held in the city would not discredit any country. The exhibits of root crops and grain, the products of the dairy, the cattli' and shee]), all bear witness to the industry of the ]ie(iple and the jiniductiveness of the soil when duly cultivated. What then mav we not antici- pate when the deep soil of the sheltered valleys in the warmer interior and the more favoured Avest coast are brimght under cultivation. SIR STKPHEX Hll.r. Sir Stephen Hill, who was C4overnor in 1873, says in one of liis despatches that "the agricidtural cajiahilities of the island are far greater than are usually assigned to it, and that large portions of it are capable of a high cultivation. The area of the fertile portions, added together, amount to many millions of acres. With respect to the jjroducts of the colony, potatoes, turnips, cabbages, peas, beans and indeed all vegetables which grow in England, arrive at the highest state of ]ierfection in Newfoundland. Of cereals, its Parley and oats will not suffer by comparison with the ]iiddiice of \o\a Scotia ; and even wheat can be ripened in spots, tliougli as a rule not as a profit- able crop. As regards fruit, cunvints, -tiawberries, gooseberries and cherries, with other fruit, gi-ow in the gardens ; and count- 112 AGRICULTUEAL JiESOUECES. Jess f<])ecit's (if berries are fouml in great profusion tlirongliout the couiilrv.'' KEPOET OF THE JOINT C03IMITTEE. lu 1880 a Joint Committee of the Council and House of As- sembly, appointed to consider the i[Uestion of constructing a railway in the island, prescuti'il a report of -which the folhjwing are extracts : — " Our agi'icidtural industry, thougli prosccutetl to a vahialilc extent, is yet susreptil^e of very enharged develop- ment. Vast stretclies of agricultural hand, extending from Ti'inily ]^>ay nortli, ahing the heads of Bonavista Bay, Gander Bay, and Exploits Eiver, as Avell as on the west coast, m-ed only the emjdoyment of well-directed Lilioui' to convert them into means of independi'ut sujiport for ihousands of the ]ioiiulation.'' . . . " The incpury is furtlu-r suggested whether this colony bhouM niit lierome an e'xportei' of live stock : and wt- liave little diliiculty in atlirming this position. For grazing purjioses we have large ti"icts that we believe ciiiiiiol be surjtassed in Biiti.sh Xorth America ; and when Ave regard our proximity to Englaml, and the all-important consideration of a short voyage for live stock, the advantages which we possess in this connection are too manih'st to be the sul)ject of question or ai'gument." fSlK HEXKY BLAKE'S OPINION. .Sir Henry Blake, now Coveiaior of Jamaica, was (iovernor of Newfoundland in 1887, and was one of the ablest and most tMiergetic rulers the i.sland has seeu. In opening the annual agri- cultural exhibition at St. .lolm's, in that year, he said : — '' That a society of lietween 40 and .")() members should get up such an agricultui'al sliow as this, in wln'cli j>rizes to the amount of $^500 and .$'600 are offered, besides the two handsome silver cups, pre- .sented for competition, is highly <reditable to the members of till! .'^ociefy. As I went around tlie show-yard, if I had not already formed an opinion a< to tlie capal)ilities of the soil from what I have s(!en since my advent to the Colony, I should have been sur])iase,ii, as I am gratified, to see such exhibits in every branch of the faiinei's imlusti-v. You have demonstrated that AGTtlCULTUKAL ItESOURCES. Ho ■even in tliis reuin^iula of Avaldii, wliicli is i|uotL'd Ijy all au- thorities as the Imst proihictive jiortiou ut' the ishiuJ, you van produce ]i\-e-stock, root-crops aud i'\-eu cereals worthy of a phice in exhibitions of far greater jjretensions." His Excellency then referred to a visit he had recently paid to Placentia, and gave it as liis opinion that "the encouragement of agriculture was of cardinal importance," and dwelt on " the facilities presented here for stock-raising, and general cultiAation of the soil ami the vast additions to the prosperity of the country that Avere thus possi- ble." At this exhibition were 656 entries for produce and 304 for stock. In addition to fine specimens of horses, cattle, .sheep, dairy cows, poultry, geese, turkeys, etc., .-specimens of root-crops were exhibited which would compare favourably with those of any other country. There were cabliages weighing each fmiu ■30 to 40 lbs. ; turnips — 20 of which tilled a barrel, and splendid beet, carrots and parsnips. The butter, cheese and cream exhi- Inted were s])ecially good. The potatoes could not be surpassed, PKODUCTS OF CUI^TIVATKI) LANI>. Pei-haps the best answer to those who are incredulous i-cgard- ing the agricultural capabilities of Newfoundland, is to show what has been accom])Ushed already in the cultivation of the soil, and the rearing of farm-stock. Owing to the causes already enumerated —the early pi'ohiliition of settleuient, the want of roads and railways to a com])aratively recent date, so that the larger tracts of good laud were inaccessible ; and the aluiost ex- clusive em})loyment (jf the ])eople in the fishing industry, — the progress of agriculture has been very slow. Still, with all these drawbacks, it is marvcdlous to fiud how great are the results of the liuiited industry as yet devoted to farmiug. The cultivation of land is coufiued to the neighbourhood of the settlements and towns, and the jiortions opened up by the roads which c(jnnect them. There are l)Ut few farms more than three or four miles from the sea-coast ; so that ouly the poorest portions of the soil have yet been brought under culture, aud in the regions least favoured in regard to climate, — the ca>ti'rn shore. 114 AGl'JCULTriiAL i;KS< XKCES. CENSUS OF 1891— AGKIClI.TIlJ.Vr, I'KODUCTS. Tlie Census for 1891 eiial)k's tis to Inriii a correct estimate of tlie condition of agricniture at tlic jiresi-nt time. According to tlie returns of the census, tlieiv are 179,21") acres of land occu- ]ii(Ml ; 04,494 acres of imjirovcd lau<l ; •20,')2i acres in pasture ; i?l,sl3 acres in gardens ; and G,:^44 acres of improved land un- used. At tlie low estimate of Sr)0 per ai're, tlic land under culture is therefore Morth -$'3,224,700. The Census of 1884 gave the quantity of improved land as 4G,498 acres ; so that in 8eveu years tlie increase has heeii 17,498 acres — a i)ri)of that a favouralile impulse has heen given to farming hy \arious legal enactments, the extension of roads and the Inrmation of agricul- tural societies. Wherever farming is cond>ined with tishing the people are jirospcrous and the cases of want very few. The following talde shows approximately the value of the ani- mals, and also of the annual farm produce I'm- the year 1891 : — (),138 Horses, value.l at ^40 each .... ^•24.3,520' 10,863 ]Milch Cows, valued at .$-30 each . . . 325,89a 12,959 Other Horned Cattle, valued at .!s'20 each . 259,180- 60,840 Sheep, valued at ^4 each .... 243,360' 32,011 Swine, valued at ,^3 each .... 96,033 8,715 Goats, valued at ^'2 each 17,430' Total $1,189,413- FARM rilODK i:. The farm produce for 1891 amounted to — 491 Bushels of Wheat and Barlev, at -S'l per Inidi. 8491 12,900 Bushels of Oats, at 50 cents per hush. . . 6,450 36,032 Tons of Hav, at .J^20 per ton . . . 720,640 481,024 Barrels of Potatoes, at -S'l ]>er lul. . . 481,024 60,235 Barrels of Turnii)s, at -Ji'l l»-i' hrl. . . 60,235 86,411 Barrels of other roots, at S'l per Inl. . . 86,411 401,716 Lbs. Butter, at 20 cents per 11.. . . . 80,343 Milk and Green Vegetables, (-timated at . 96,000' 154,021 Lbs. Wool, at 20 cents per lb. . . . 30.804 Total ^1,562,398- A(;i;1(Ii;iti;ai, UKSontcEs. 115 Till,' tnllnwiiiL; lalilc slinws liy (■(iiupiirisou with till' 2>ivei-ili]iiT tabli' tl]i- aih.iii.'c ill till' l^•allill^ ])r()(lucts emuuei-atcil aliovc. iu .seven yciu-s— IVdiii 1884 till 18!)] : — Ci-Nsrs 1884. 4(J2 Bu.-li.'ls ..r Wlu'ul ainl ISarley. 5,393 Biislu'ls of Oats. 28,312 Tons of Hay. ;302,649 Barrels of Potatoes. 24,006 Barn-Is of Turnips. 21,144 BaiTi'ls of otlR-r root .i-ops. 5,534 Horses. 8,040 Milch ( 'ows. 11,844 Other Horucl ("attic 40,326 Sheej.. 21,555 Swine. 7,934 (^oats. :247,064 Ll>s. Butter. ANXUAI. IXCO-AIl'] IK<)>I CATTI.K, KTC. There is an addition to l>e made to the value of the farm ])ro- •ducts in 1891 in order to an i\c at the real annual value of the .cultivated land. It will he seen tliat the Cen.sus does not iic»te the annual income derived IVoiu rattle, sheej), sAvine and goats, which must reach a large amount. Only an approximate calcu- lation can l)e made ; l)ut if Me take the number of calves and 'lambs produced during thr year 1891, and the products of 21,555 swine, the value of the wlioh' could not be less than -$'520,000. When we add to this the annual jiroducts of 6,138 horses ; of -8,715 goats; of 127,420 fowl ;■ togethei with fruits (including -wild berries), vegetables, etc., .$'212,000 would not bean exce.ssi\e .estimate of their value ; so that we arrive at a total of $732,000 •derivable from these sources, which being added to the value of the growing crops as already stated ($1,562,398) gives a total of ^2,295,398 as the agricuUund ]M-.)diicts of the island in 1891. Let us now look at the aiuoiuit of agricultural jiroducts and ;animals imported into Xewfoundlaiid, all, or nearly all, of which' 11(5 At;r;icuLTri;AL i;Esorj;CEs. could Iv laisfd in tli • cotiiitiv, if our agriLultnio on a more exteusi\e ^cale ami with greater skill table shows tlie iiii]>orts of such products in the 2,512 Oxen and Cows, valued at 118 Pigs and Calves, valued at 3,48o Sheep, valued at ... . 230 Horses, valued at . 2,071 Cwts. Baci^n and Hams, valued at . 13,971 Brls. Beef and Pigs Heads, valued at 14,510 Cwts. Butter and Oleomargarine, valued 1,384 Cwst. Cheese, valued at . 39,288 Lbs. Feathers, valued at . 367,978 Lbs. Fresh Meat and Poultry, valued at 7,459 Brls. Indian Meal, valuetl at . Indian Corn, valued at . 20,867 Bushels Oats, Aalue;! at . 3,009 Brls. Oatmeal, valued at 6,642 Brls. Pea<e, valued at . 19,982 Brls. Pork, valued at . . . 88,542 Calil-ages, \alued at ... 54,531 Bushels Potatoes, valued at 6,758 Bushels Turnii)s, valued at Eggs, Aalued at ... . Tallow, valued at . Onions, valiu'd at . Yarn, valued at ... . Barley, valuetl at .... Hay and Straw, valued at . . Beans, valued at . Lard, valued at ... . Meat (cannt'il), valued at . Total rARMING IN THE Fl TLIIK. If we sui)pope this amount of produce raised i -ivhich, in the near future, may be the case, now were The ear 1 conducted I'ol lowing 891 :— •S-101,480 590' 10,455 16,100 20,923 167,652 217,650 19,370 3,829' 36,787 22,377 5,050 8,346 12,036 26,568 259,766^ 4,427 10,906 1,351 1,748 3,608 5,530 19,530 2,642 10,530 4,189 3,376 10,179 .S'924,940 n the country, that a railwav A(;i;[(Ii;iti;a[. i;E.sorRCEs. 117' La-i (ipi'iu-d up tlic IVnilc l.tinU. tlu-u nearly a inilliini i|n|lai> Avliicli arc anmially smt nut nf iln> (•omiti-v lo pay ihc aL;i-i(iil- turists of (itlu'i- lamls, wuiiM Iji- ntaiuL-d to bcni-fit XcMioiiinllanil farmers ami I'uruisli iucrca^i-il employment to the ]ieo|ile. it' liome manufactures are wmtliy of encouragement, still more so- are food factories in the siia]>e of farms. It is evident iVom the foregoing return^ tliat, for- >niiie time to come, the produce of the farm and the dair>', and th<' raising of stock will tind a re- munerative market in the i>land itself, apart altogethei- fi-i m exportation. ]\Iui'h (an he done to promote agiiculture liy the e.stablisliment of nioih'l firm-: the increase of agriiiill inal societies; the introduction of iiii]iroved breeding stock ; the impartation to the young of a knowledge of the elements o|' agri- culture by means of a good texidiook to be used in the scIkkjIs and colleges. Now that the iild tradition.- about the barrenness of the soil are largely di.~>ipated. and that we begin to have ciai- fidence in the capabilities of the country it becomes evident that the progress ami prosperty of the colon}' depend very laigely cm the employment of the people in agricultural pursuits. There is room for thousmd- o|' emigrants from other countries ; Imt lueantime our suriilu- population, wdio cannot tind subsistence from sea-farming, should lie drafted to the land and along the liues of railway, fhc long a minister of Agriculture will be- come a necessity, and hi- dejiartment will become the most useful iu connection with the jiublic ser\ice. PROBABLK INtlJKASK Ol I'lUCES OF FARM ri:<»I)l CTS. There is another considei'ation — the pi-oximity of this islan<l to the Old World from A\hich the stream of emigration chiefly fiow's. Six days' steaming lands the emigrant here, at a trilling cost and -without incurring tin- danger and fatigue of a long journey to the far \Ve>t of the United States or the Xorth-west of Canada. In the I'liited States the good wheat-growing lands iire nearly all occupied ; there are no more fertile regions to con- quer. The big farms, where most of the labour is done by macliinery and hoi-ses, are no hniger found to lie lionanzas owing 118 AGKi('i:i.Tri;Ai. uHsorHcEs. to the low ]irice of wlicat, and tlic teiidfiicy now is to small I'arnis. In tlie United Stales a niillinn a year are added to the population: so tliat, eve lon<<', cnnsunqilion will overtake ]n-o- , dnction, and the jirice- i.f lanii ]irnduce will rise, and small foi'ms of one liundre(l acres will uixc a eomfortable living to a family. As population imicases here the value of farm yvo- duets will he increased and laiaii-life will l)erome more at- tractive. The small-farm system, I'ur which Newfoundland is iidmii'ably adajited, is now superseding the large food-factories of the we^it, where the aim is to (diminati- the hand of man bj' machinery, to the destruction of social life in the country. Bet- ter times for our ])eoplc are not far off. Xewfoundlaud has at last a chance for turning to account her long-neglected fertile lands. CATTI^K AXI> SHKKP RAISING. With small farms the raising of cattle and sheep on a large scale, as has been already stated, could be carried (m over manj' thousands of acres -which ai'c admiralily adapted for ranching ])urposes. Cattle thus raised could lie i I'ansjwi-ted in six or seven ilavs to England, and would arrive in excellent comlition, and would compete, at a great adxautage, in the market over animals that after a railway journey of Imndi-eds of miles have to undergo a sea-voyage of twelve or fouileen days, arriving in a deteriorated condition after many losses. FREEZIX*; rilOt KSSKS KOK >IEAT. Science has made great strides, in recent years, in the different methods of preserving meats in a IVesh state, so that the super- rtuity of one country can be transpoi-ted to another, where it is scarce and costly. Millions of tins of canned meats are now sent to all the great markets ol Kuro]>e, and the increase in this trade every year is enorniou-. 'i'he free/ing process for the j'l'cser- vation of meat of all kimls, game, p(jultry and fish, has now reached such a state of jierfection tliat it is no longer necessary to ])i-cserve them with salt, in oi(h'i- that they may " ci'oss the Jine'" when sent from Australia ir India to England. In cold A(;i;uLi;i'ri;.\i, iiKsorucEs'. ]]!> -couutrii's, sucli as Russia or ( 'aiiada, wIr'U tin.' season of uniu- teiTupted cold arrives, animals an- slaughtered and lid/en by the icj'' hand ol' nature, and arc thus jnescrved fresh I'or long jieriods'. If frozen on ice, oi- kept in contact with ice, the llavoui- will he greatly damaged ; hut, if dry-li'o/en and ke])t in an icy atmos- phere, the llavoni and ap])earance do not suffer, and tlie meat is fonnd very easy of digestion. Onee frozen, howevei-, it should never be aHowed to thaw until il is alxjut to lie cooked, other- wise it will sjioil with great rapidity. The reason of this is that. as water e.\]iauds in freezing, the watery tluid, comliine(l with the museulai- Hhre, Imi-.-ts the .^uii'ounding niendn-aneous tubes, .and ■when thawed it is in a condiiion to undergo ra]iid chendcal changes. TK.VXSl't)i:T (>l^ lUOZKN ^IK.VT, KTf. Should Newfoundland lieconu', a cattle and sheep raising coun- try, not oidy does its geograiihical iiosition furnish important facilities for the transportation of live stock, but the cohlness of its climate in wintei' would be favouivilile for a frozitu meat trade. Once the steady winter's cold sets in meats of all kinds, venison, game — such as ptarnugair —could be frozen, and iu re- frigerating apartments on board transported to other countries. roiJKST WKAI.TH OV THE ISLAND. The old tradition Avhicli represented the island as incapable of pioducing trees, except of \ei'y small size, and declared that ■ only a wivtched stunted growth was to bi' met with, is not yet • ipiite extinit. . How entirely contrary to fact are such I'eports has Ix'cn ali'cady shown in the foregoing chajiters. It is i|uite true that, from time to lime, foi'est-fircs have destroyed some sections of the heavily-timbered districts ; but tlie standing ti'ces are not seriously injured in these biu-nt districts, and most of them could still be turned to ])rofitable account, though the .appearance presented In' their Ideached trunks and leafless arms is sutticiently ghastly. The forest wealth, however, still remain- ing unutilized is immense. As already stated, these forests an* fciund cliiellv ia the valh'vs of the m-eat rivers and alomr the 120 AGRIcri/IIKAI, KKSOIKCES, l)ank.< (if their tiiluitaiifs ; also in tlie couutiv aiound SI. Guorge's- Bay. TIr- i)iiiiri])al vaiictii-s of tlic nnligviinus foivst growths are -whilf ]iiin-, white ami hlark >]>riii-c, lainarack nr larrh, fir, vt'lhiw and wliitc hiri'li. The yt-llow liirdi, whidi ahomuls largely in St. (ieorge"s Bay, i- said to hi- (-(jual in dviral)ility to- Eiiglisli oak, and, witli the spnue.- and huvhcs, is adiiiirahly adajited for shiii-l)nildiiig ]mr])OS('s. Thi' lumhi-r Irailc ah'i'ady ih^vedoju'd ly tlic portion of tlie new railway which lia> hecii coiiq^k-ti'd and oociated as far as- Exjiloits, furnislie-s anipU^ proof of tlic foic^t resonrcrs of tlie country, and gives good promise for the fntnic. — (Sir clmji. III.)- TIMIJKK OF THK OANDEK DISTRICT. The great vaUey of tlie (ianih-r is (h-stined to he tlie most ini- jjortant Inndiering regifHi in tlie island. Its topography, soil and tbrest growths have been alreaily touehed on in ('hai)tei- III. on Beads and Bailways. The ( ieologieal report contains the fol- lowing: — "Excejit where partially denuded hy fire, the whole valley of the rivei', the shores of the lake and the Ijanks of the tributaries are all denstdy clad by fVa-est, among the most con- t>2)icuous trees of Avhich are pines, to all ai>pearance of the finest description. Upon the sonth-west arm, and at various ]iarts of the lake, groves of jjine may Ijc .seen where the average girth of the trees is not much, if anything, less than nine feet. On about one acre of Ptirface I measured 15 or 20 trees, the diameter of ■which varied from two and a-lialf to four an<l a-half feet ; and these, moreoA'er, wei'e straight, tall and sound, with stems run- ning up symmetrically for upwards of fifty feet Avithout a lu-anch or knot.-' The report estimated tlie available pine limits here at 850 square nules, including the valley of the ( lambo and Triton river and the country along tin- south side of the lake and across to Freshwater Bay. " 3fost, if not all, the pine here referi'cd to is of the Avliite vaiiety, — I'iiuis >itrolnis, — proliably the most valu- able S2)ecies for the juanniactnre of lumljer. Fires swejit over many portions of this district, but the pine, though scorclied, does not appear to l)e much injitrcd so long as it lemains ^tandim:." A(ii;[cri;iTi;Ai. UKsoriicKs. liM THK FOKKSTS Ol" THK KXPLOITS. Next in I 111 Ici' as a luinlici-hit^' country is tlie Explnils Vallc-y. wliieh contains a very larg'c tinantity of jnne ami otlu-r valualile timber, to whieli refei-ence has already Leeu made. The report already i| noted says: "Between the Grand Falls and Badger Brook, at many ]iarts on lioth sides of the main river, pine nourishes luxuriantly, uuk Ii of MJiicli ajipears to Ik- of excellent quality, heing often oi' fail- diameter, straight and tall. These reaches also display a tine growth of other A'arieties of (iniher ; and at some i)arts, es])ecially ahove tlie forks of Sandy Brook, white birch often attains a \ery large size. About Red Indian Lake there i> a sii]hi1i growtli of pine, and spruce of large size, straight and tall. . . . '• The southern side of the Exploits jH'esents an unbnikiu dense forest, in a series of gentle undula- tions, far as the eye can reach. From the Victoria Ttiver to the lieail of the Ited Indian Lake, the country i- well-tiiiiliere(l throughoul." . . . " Witli a splendid river, almiidaiit timber and a feilile soil, tliis reginn is marked out hn- a prosperous settlement.'" THK m>IIJKK FORESTS. The valli'V of the Humljer is another district lidily wooded, where lumlicring operations have been carried on for many years on an extensive scale. " Tamarack or juniper is not rare ; yellow birch of large dimensions are abundant ; white pine ami spiiice grow in the greatest profusion, frequently of a size and ([uality not greatly inferior, if not eipial to the best that is now brought to market into (rasjie and other parts of the Lower I'loviiice of Canada." Mr. McLeod, a Canadian civil engineer, said in his Report of 1875 : — " To give a rough estimate of the extent of tine timbered land from the mouth of the Humber to the Grand Lake Brook, I should say that in all there is not less than 20 s(piare miles, ■which would on the average yield live trees of from 1,000 to 2,500 superficial feet each to the acre. This would give 3,200 trees to the square mile, which at an average board measurement of say 1,500 feet, gives per square mile 4,800,000 sipiare feet. 122 A(;i;ii'ri;rii;Ai, iiKsoriicES. 'This multii.]iL-(l l.\ 20 t;ivrs !)f;,000,0()0 l\-vX as tlic ([uautity of standing pine on tin- Huniber/' The (quality of the pine lie pro- nonnced "ahovc llie oi'dinavv market run.'' ST. <;K()U(iK'S BAY I.U3IUKK. Tlie.se are tin- princijial luniliering regioirs ; luit, as already stated, the valleys around St. (xcorge'.s Bay and the Codroy Val- leys rontaiu a hue growth of mixed fore.st timher — spruee, pine, liirrh and tir. ()n most of the .smaller streams there are also groves of pine and various othei- trees, while the .same hohls good regarding the heads uf many of the Ijays. From all this it 1;^ evident that "in regard to forest wealth and huuhering capa- bilities, Newfoundland lioMs a very important plaee.' CHAPTER A'. MINERAL RESOURCES. THE FIRST MIXES. It wa.'^ not till a comparatively recent date tliat Xewfoundlantl Avas known to contain mineral treasures of immense value. Tlie late Mr. C. F. Bennett was the pioui-er of mining enterj)rise. Mr. Smitli McKay was the tirst discoverer of copper ore at a small fisliing-hamlet called Tilt Cove, in the year 1857. Here a mine was 02)ened in 18G4 under the joint management of Messrs. Bennett and McKay. During the following tifteen years Tilt Cove mine yielded about 50,000 tons of copper uw, valued at 31,572,154; and nickel ore worth §-32,740. It continues to l)e worked till the present date and now gives em[iliiyineut to some 500 miners, and the village cuntains over a thousand inhaliitants. In 1875 another cojij^er mine was opened at P.etts Cove, about a dozen miles south of Tilt Cove. In four years the ([uantity of ore exi:)orted from it amounted to 122,556 tons, valueil at $'2,982,- 836. In 1878 a still richer depo.-it of copper (irc was opened at Little Bay, at no great distance from Bett"s Cove. Up to 1879 the total quantity of ores exported frnm all the mines reached in value ^4,629,889 or nearly a million jwunds sterling. This placed Newfoundland sixth among the copper-producing countries of the world. VAI.IE OF 3IIXEKAI. EXI'OIITS AT IMtJCSENT. That it still maintains its character as a mining cnuntrv ap- pears from the Customs Returns for 1891 and 1892. In the former year the value of all the ores exporte(l was .5'G24,750 ; in 1892 the value rose to ^1,006,592. Thus, at the present time, mining constitutes one of the leading industries nf the country ; though it may be safely aftirmed tliat it is yet in its infancy, and the near future -will witness great advances when the lailway has opened the country. 124 ^riNEKAL JtESOritCES. METALLIIKKOUS ZOXE. TliL' verdict of scii'iice warrants sucli an expectation. The larg-e ilevelojjment of tlie serjientine rocks in tlie island is a fact of iiriniary importance. These serpentines l^elong to what in Canadian Geology is termed the (^)ue1)ec Group of the Lower Silurian Series, and to the middle or Lau/.on division of that .■series. "The Lanzon division," says Sir William Logan, "is the metalliferous zone of the Lower Silurian in North America. It is rich in co])per ores, chieHy as interstratitied cupriferous slates, and is accompanied l)y silver, gohl, nickel and chromium ores." This Lauzon division is the one which is develoj)ed in Newfound- land, and in which all the copper mines are situated. It is of importance therefore to ascertain wliat is tlie extent of these ser- l)entine niineral-l)earing rocks in the island. Tlie Geological Survey's Re])ort gives the following tnistwoithy t'stiuiate of the .ser^K'ntines : — ]jetween Hare and Pistulel Days North from Bonne Bay South from Hare Bay South fri)m B>i)une Bay South f)-om B)ay of Islands Surrounding Notre Dame I'ay Gander Lake and River ciunitry Bay d'Est River .... Total . . . 0,097 " KXTENT OV DEPOSITS. Tiu' whole shoi'es of the (xreat Bay of Notre Dame, where copper was first found, are of the sei'pentine formation, and so are its numerous clusters of islands. On the opjiosite shores, on the West Coast, at Bonne liay and Bay of Islands, there are large developments of the ser]unitine ; and there are strong reasons for believing that ihe serpentine foi'matiou runs across the island, between these two ]ioints, and prol)aMy comes to the surface at many jdaces far inland. The new line of railwav will greatly facilitate the exploration :)f this I'egion with the view of , :^30 Sq. ii}S. . 350 , ITo . 150 , 182 1,400 2,310 300 MINERAL KESOURCES. 125 turning to aeeouut its mineral deposits. It must he remembered too, tliat these remarks apply to copper mining alone ; but, as has been already sliown, otlier ores, sucli as asbestos, nickel, iron pyrites, lead and iron, are found, and give promise of profitable developments. Tlie coal-beds too, await examination and work- ing. All these considerations seem to mark out the island as one of the world's mining centres, in the near future. While the ^reat beds of serpentine liohl the copper treasures, present indi- cations warrant the belief that tlie Huronian and Lower Silurian rocks contain lead in workable quantities, in many localities, liaving a jiercentage of silver, while indications of gold are not wanting. The whole island, therefore, may be fairly regarded as more or less metalliferous, while coal-areas on the western coa.st increase the value of the whole mineral resources. Quite re- cently too, ]ietroleum lias been discovered on the western coast, but whether it is present in workable <|uantities has yet to be detei-mined. A company has been formed to turn it to account, iind an analysis shows that the ipiality of the oil is excellent. OPIXIOXS OF PKOFESSOR STEWART. Pi'ofessor Stewart, an eminent American mining exj^ert, visited the island a few years ago, and made a careful examination of .the mining region. In his report he said, among other things, " the cojijier ore of Newfoundland is a beautiful yellow sulphuret, free from arsenic or any undesirable ingredient, with a little iron, and containing from eight to twelve per cent, of pure copper. Finer co2)per ore is no where found. The character of the rocks in which it occurred gives an absolute assurance of perpetuity in the working. The rocks are metamorjihosed and laminated ; and the extent of mineral indications over extensive areas renders exhaustion in the working a 2:)ractical impossibility." LEAD ORE: Lead ore was first discovered at La ]\Ianche, near the north- .eastern extremity of Placentia Bay, ■\^•here for several years workings were carrieil on. The quality of the ore found here is veiy fine. It produces 82 per cent, of metallic lead, and also 12G MiNEitAL ];Ksori;('Hs. contaiu^s a 2>ercentage of sihcr. In rmt-aii-l'drt, on tlie western sliore, a rich deposit of lead ore \vas discovered in 1875, and Avas worked for a short time witli A^ery promising results ; but on the protest of the French, avIio alleged that the working of a mine here was an infringement of tlu'ir treaty-rights, the Imperial authorities ordered tlie work to he sto])]>ed. Magnetic iron ore has been found in large quantities in St, George's Bay, and the Lanrentian hills contain indications of it. GYPSUM AND JIAKBLES. The Geological Survey's report states that "gypsum is distri- buted more profusely and in greater volume in the carljoniferous districts than in any part of the American Continent of the same extent." In St. (ieorge's Bay and Codrov tlie de\elopment3 of gypsum are immense. Marbles, too, of almost every shade of colour, have been produced fi'om various parts of the coast, on Itoth the eastern and Avestern shores. The development at Bay of Islands is extensi\-e. ({ranite of the fine.-t ([uality, building .stone.s, Avhet-stones and lime-stones are in ample pi'ofusion. — Eoofing-slate can al-o be supplied in aljundance. Before passing from the mineral resources of the island it may l)e well to make s})ecial reference to the Iron Pyrites' Mine in. Pilley's Island, Notre Dame Bay. This uuue lias been Avorked for eight or ten years, and is at present one of the most A"aluable and profitable mines in the country. The (piality of the pyrites which it yields is .said to be the finest in the Avorld, containing fifty-tAvo ])er cent, of sulphur, and gi^■ing a j'esidutim of iron, after the suljihiii' is extracted, Avhich is manufactured into the finest steel. Tlu' ]iyrites is shipped at the rate of from 30,000 to 40,000 tons annually to the United States, Avhert' it is used for the manufacture of sulphuric acid, copjieras, etc. A visit to this noAV celebrated mine Avill be found most interesting. The Avork- ings are evtensive and are carried on Avith the most improved luachinery and under scientific direction. Adjoining it is an- other dejKjsit of iron pyrites of the same (piality, which is re- ])orterl to l)e vei'y I'xteusive and Avill prolialily be sliiortly worked^ MTNKIJAI. KESOrnCES, 127 fis the tests apjilifi] tn it, umlcr tlic diicction of miiiiiii;' i-xiuTts, • are said to be very satisfactory. Tin- I'acilitics for \\()j-kiii;4 if are all tliat could be dt'sircd. The a]i[ilication of capital and enterprise is alone neeiled to convei't if into a piodactive mine. There Is an excellent liarlionr close to the dei>osit, having deep ' Avater vithin a few feet of the shoic The demand foi- this mineral is steadily increasing. PILtEVS ISr.AND— IKON rVKITKS— TOTAT. KXPOIITS or OIIK. Returns of the (piantities of iron pyrites shipped in 1893,- compiled hy T. X. Mollo\', Esq., American Consul, apj^eared in The Trade Review of Jilarcli 10th, 1894. These returns show that in that year there were exported to the United States 38,214 tons of iron pyrites from the Pilley's Island nune, the aggregate value of which was ^195,780. The mine shows no signs of exhaus- tion ; and the adjoining deposit, above referred to, is reported to contain a much larger c|uantity of the same mineral. A few years ago the mine whidi is now worked was sold for .*if300,000, and wouhl now probably bring a much higher price. Copper ore is also shipjjed to the Uuiteil States from Tilt Cove in con- siderable f[uantities. In 1893, according to ]\Ir. Molloy's returns, 23,097 tons of co])- per ore were thus shipped, the value of which was $'68,G04 ; so that the shipments of ore from Pilley's Island and Tilt Cove, that year, aggregated 58,311 tons, the value of which was 3-G4,384. In a valuable little pamphlet on "The Mineral Eesources of Newfoundland," by J. P. Howley, F.CS., head of the Geological Survey, published in 1892, statistics are given, com^'iled from the Customs' Returns, showing the exports of the various ores since the mines were first opened. According to these Returns the value of copper ore, regulus and ingots exported from 18G4 to the end of 1891, was no less than -^9,193,790. The value of iron i\vrites exported from 1886 to the end of 1891 was .S'247,087. To this must Ix' addeil the value of ])yrites exported in 1892, (Customs' Returns), -S'31G,.")84 ; ami that of 1893, $195,780— making a total of $'759,451 , as the value of the exports of pyrites 128 MINERAL ItESOURCES. since 1886. All the exijoits of other minerals, such as lead, nickel, etc., according to Mr. Howley's table, when added to the value of the copi)er and pyrites ex2)orts, .sliow an aggregate value of $'9,594,714 for the total ex])orts of ore till the end of 1891. Adding to this amount the Aalue of cojiper ore and jiyrites ex- ported 1892, (§1,006,592,) and the value of pyrites exj-orted 1893, Ave get an aggregati- of $10,777,080 as llu- value of all the min- . erals exixnled from 1864 to tlie end of 1893. KCOXO:>IIC .SUBSTAXCKS. In addition to the ores already named, Mr. Howley enumerates molylidenite, antimonite, iron ores, manganese, lead, asbestos, silver, gold, as occurring in vai'ious places, and sometimes in promising quantities. Building and ornamental materials, such as granites, syenites, sandstones, limestones, marbles, serjjentines, slates, as well as a variety of mineral substanci's ajiplicable to the tine arts and ornamental purposes, ari- also mentioned. Mr. Howley very justly remarks tliat "Tlie possession of so many useful minerals and economic substances in this island (the oldest and nearest British-American jjossession to Europe) should i)oint to Xewfoundland as a country most favourably situated for min- ing and manufacturing industries, second indeed to niiue of tin- other British-American possessions. The construction of main lines of railway through the island, now lieing vigorously j)ushed forward, must in tlie near future result in bringing alaout a greater activity in this direction. Already, although the im- mediate coast-line only is accessible to mining ca])italists, Xewfoundland ranks as one of tlie chief copper-producing coun- tries of the glolie. Yet even this industry may be sjiid to be merely in its infancy." I'KOSPKCTS OF MIXIXO ASBESTOS. Ml'. Howlev, iu tlie ]>aiii])hlet referred to, speaks of the re- , cently discovered asbestos deposits in the following terms: — "Asbestos, or chrysotile, deserves special mention, as it is likely to prove of very considerable economic importance ere long. This mineral has been recognized amongst the serjientine de- MINERAL RESOURCES. 129 •jDOsits of tlie island in many localities. It occurs in strings and threads of tine silky texture, tiaversing the masses of serpentine in all directions. Not until i|uite recently, however, was the iittention of capitalists called tn its existence here, and fairly unlisted in its development. The comparative scarcity of good material in America, and llie not distant prospect of the Canadian ■deposits of this valuable uiiiu-ial giving out, led to the large 'manufacturing firms of Clialmers, Spence & Co., of Boston, and •the John's Co., of New York, sending ]iersons to prospect in this ^^ountry. Certain ]u-operties known to contain asbestos, in the vieinity of Port-au-Port and Bay of Islands, were leased by them and (iperations connnenced by costeaning the surface, laying bare tile (le]i<)<its, and I'unning oi)en cuts into the side nf the serpen- tine ridges. A good deal of I'xcellent tibre was obtained thereby, though the de])Osit is exci^edingly irregular. The filire varies fi-iiin less than half to about five inches in length, averaging about two iuches. So far as <piality goes, it is, I Ijelieve, all that is requisite for ordinary use. Other parties opened up deposits of serpentine nearer the shore, showing abundance of short tibre, in numerous small veins. Some of this is tvo to two and a half inches long, and is of a beautiful fine and silky texture, ap- proaching amianthus in purity. Its greatly enhanceil value of late years, and its comparative scarcity in the market, render it an object much sought after. Serpentines and their associated I'ocks, identical in character with those holding the material in < 'anada, occur abundantly in many parts of Xewfoundland, which is already regai'deil in Canada as, in all probability, •' Queliec's greatest rival,'' in the near future, in the [>roduction of .this valualtle connnodity.'' Mu. wiiAAi^'s r.vri:K ox asrkstos. A pajier was read before the Mining Society of Nova Scotia Decern) ler 3rd, 1893, on ''Tlie Asl)estos Fields of Port-au-Port, Newfoundland," by Mr. C. E. Willis, a high authority on the subject. A few extracts ai-e subjoined : " Tlie metamorphic rocks find serpentines of the Eastern Townships of (Quebec and the 130 MIXERAf. l!E.SOrR('ES. -Ciaspe Peninsula, in ■wliicli tlic {'aiiailiau aslit-stos, or more pro- ]ierly .speaking cluysotile, is Inuml, ilip umler the (Inlf of St. Lawrence, ajipear again on tlie \ve>t cdast of Xewfoundlaiul and extend many mile.s inland, proljaMy entirely across the island, thongli in places, specially the gieat elevated central plateau, they are capped with granite rocks, and seemingly liave disa])- ])eared. Tliis entire area, extendin^L; aliout 100 miles nortli and south, and the entire width of tlie island east and west, can be safely called a serpentine country, and contains, according to Mi\ James P. HoAvley's estimate, 5,097 srpiare miles of serpentine rocks. "The serjientines, with the granulite dykes whicli everywhere intersect them, contain ^ast deposits of minerals, and are to-day nearly virgin fields, except on the immediate coast line, for the prospector or miner, and certain to become, in the immediate future, the seat of great mining o]ierations. " That the country has not long ere this taken a hrst rank as a mineral producer, is due to its former isolated ]>(isiti()n, ditti- culty of access, except in small sailing vessels, and other ulterior causes ; Ijut now, with regular and lVe(|uent steam conununi- cation, the prospector and engineer aiv forcing their way intO' the country, and soon it Avill be the scene of prosperous mining cam])s and a large mining industry. "The minerals met with are copper, whirli is found every- wliere, magnetic, hematite, chiomic and spi-cnlar iron ores, coal and petroleum, gold, sil\H-r and lead, nickel, iron pyriles, anti- mony, marbles, gypsum, mica and asbestos. " The existence of asbestos in this great belt of serpentine has long been known or supjjosed, and several well-known geologists, in their writings, as far bark as ten and fifteen yeai's ago, have predicted that it wor.ld be discovered in (piantities sutlieiently large tv be of econonuc value ; but it is oidy within the past three years that the attention of the miner has been turned in this direction, and is now attracting much interest in the island, " On the eastern coast of Port-au-Port, rising cmt of the sea to- a nearly vertical height of 1,800 feet, is a mountain known as .MINKKAT. ItKSOUlv'CKS, l.'M 'Ijlurt" Heail. Tlii- imiuiitaiu iU'li'iiuiiK'> ilic soutlierii liouiidai-v .(if tliL' scTpeiitim^s. " It was liere tin- a-ln-stos tii->I attrarte'il imu'li notice. Blnll' Hi'ail was long k 111 )\\ II Id ilu- lisln-riiuMi of tlic m-igliliourliood as ■'Cotton Ro(;k;' ami it raiiic in tin- kiuiwii'.lgc of tlic Hon. Pliiliii ^'Icai-y, of 8t. JolinV, who, sonit* tliree- years ago, equippeil a sniall e\]RMlition to ilo some j^i'ospecting woi'k in the neiglil)oui-- IkhiI. The .succes.s nut v. ith was so ininieiliate and mai'ked that ■iithei- claims were immediately secured, till in a sliort time tliirty -ijuare miles Nvere taken uji l)y jirospectors and specnlators, and the ])ast sunnner lia< witnessed a large amount of development work. Much of tlii- work has lieen of the must satisfactory natui-e til the owner-, and }ii-oves the field lo he a hirge and valualile one." The ]ia[iei- then ,uoes on to descrilie the operations of the ■••Halifax Asliestos ('n.'" in tin's region, which ajipear to he (if .;r very ]iromising character, al-o thdse of the "Newfoundland Mineral Syndicate" — an English Co., — and the Cleary claims, j\ll of which show satisfactory results. Tiie writer close.s in the following terms: — "Lahdiu- i- lioth almndant and cheap, and sujuilies can he readily olitaiiied and lande(l from a vessel within ii short distance of the mines. With water transportation at liand for the jiroduct, cheap lahour, and heing much nearer the. European markets than the dlher sources of supply will enable the operators to compete successfully with miiu's in othei- countries."' COAL ARKAS. Reference has already lieen made in the 3rd chapter lo the coal beds of St. George's Bay, whi(di is the principal caboniferous region in the island. Fifty years have ela])sed smce the dis- covery of coal there by the sulisequently distinguished geologist, Mr. .T. B. Jnkes, who was for many years ]3irector of the Irish (leological Survey. "When a young man he spent twelve months in the island and afterwards published a most interesting book on the results of his survey. He found a coal seam, three feet in thickness, containing caunel coal of excellent q^uality cropping lo2 .AriXEKAL liESOUliCES. out on till' liglit bank of tliu ^liddlt- Baiaclidis Biuuk, on the- south 8i(lc of St. Geoigt'V Bay. lu liis ivpuit ^Ir. Jukt-s savs : — '' There is no (loul)t of tlieiv liriiig mon- ln'ils in tlii^. vicinity, and of the inobability of all the icntic (if this Inw district being occupied liy a jn-oductivi- cr>al-tii-id.'" FiMin lair data Mr. Jidces calculated the extent of this small |i(irtiou of the inal-basin of Xewfoumlland at about :2.j miles wide liy 10 miles in len_L;lli. Mr. Murray, formerly Director of the Geolo<^ical Survey, alter a careful exploration of this region, mapped it out, and calculated that the ]ilau of one seam tliere drawn as three feet in tliickness, and occu])ying an area of 38 s(|uare miles, rontaius .")4,720,O0O chaldrons of coal, a vei-y considerable iinitinn of whieli he lie- lieved may be found witliin workalde depths. MK. HOWI.KY'S COAT. SKAMS. In 1873, another seaui of coal was disco\ered by Mr. J. V. Howley, F. (jT. S., at present Directoi' of the (_n-ological Survey, on Robinson's Brook, al>oru nine miles from its moutli, its thick- ne.s.s being four feet. It is a very liituniinous caking coal, emitting much gas rmder combustion, ami 1 aiming freely. A second seam occurs in the .same section, one foot five inches in thickness. The three seams give a tliickness of eight feet of coal. None of these seams has yet been woi-ked ; but the advent of the railway will pioneer the way for their develoiiiueut. In 1S91 the im])ortation of coal, maiidv from ("a]ie Ih-eton, amouideil to 97,327 tons, A^alue $'243,310. A\'ere the coal mines in St. (leorge's Bay Avorked, there is no reason ^^hy the whole of this large con- sumption shciuld not Ix' supidied froui these local depo.sits. Its transportation by the i-ailway or l)v sea Avould Ije easy, and the price to consumers woulil no doubt be lowered. The money now sent out of tlie country would lie emjdoyed in 2>;wing the wages of miners, and carrying on the mining ojierations : and thus a great im2)ulse would be given to' trade in all its branches. The coal requiied for working the mines and operating the railway could be su2iplied fnim this soiu'ce at a reduced cost. :mi\ki;ai. kksoiiices. i:j3 I.ATKNT SLJtVKV. Ill 188!J, a uinrr tlmrnugli cxaiiiinatidu ot'lliis ccal ili>tiirl was oanii-il out liy llic stall' of tin- Cu-ologicnl Siu-vt-y. Tliu result is tlius (lescrilx-(l hy Mi-. Huwk'v : — " Si-veial soaius of i^ood coal were found wliidi wvw uucovi-n-d at tlicii- outcroits, and liaccd for sonic distance, so as to obtain accurate and n-liaMe mea>ui-e- nieiits, and good average specimens of tlie i[uality of llie mineral. Referring to tlie rejioit of tliat year it sliows that altogether four- teen seaiiis of coal, of a varying thickness, from a few inclies up to six feet weic uncovered on one small 1 nook ; three .-eam- on another, two miles distant, and four small seams on a lidrd lirook, -till farther ea.-t ward some two anil a half miles. . . . ''These witli some smaller ones aggregate a thickness of 27 feet of coal in the section which is repeated by being brought again to the siir- fa3e on tlie other side of the synclinal trough. There is leason to believe that the-e do not represent all the seams in this section. "In the central carlioniferous trough which wa- llie object of special investigation la>l season, several seams of coal were found in the region of the (Jraiul Lake, occupying another long, narrow synclinal trough. Two sections cross this trough, ami at two miles distant from each other on tlie strike, were measured with the result that, in the first one, .sixteen outcrops of coal were ob- served, and in tlie secoml, twenty-eight outcioiKs. Tliese are not separate and distinct seams, Imt the same seams repeated by tlie doubling up of tlie strata. Xone of the seams are large ; only a few averaging three feet of coal each. Many of the smaller seams of good coal are so close together, being divided only liy five or six feet of loose shaly .strata, and all in vertical position,— that I believe several of tliese could be worked as (me seam by a single <lrift along the strike. All the coal as yet disco\ered in this island is of the soft bituminous variety ; some of it ap- proaches cannel coal.'' CHAPTKR VI. THE CROWN LANDS' ACTS. COXSOI.IDATKD 1891. The law wliirli n'gnlatos IIk' sale or loasing of ( 'i-owii Lands, foi' a<,n-icultuval, liimlH'riiig or iniiiiiii; i)Ui'i)os(.'s, is of the mo.st lilicral cliaractcr, and well calrnlatcil 1o proinoti' the settlement .of tlie country and the devcloimu'ut of its natural resources. The Crown Lands Acts, Consolidated 1891, (a copy of which may he olttained l)y apjjlication at the office of the Surveyor • General) amend all former Land Acts, and consolidate all former statements I'elatinj^r to Crown Lands into one elahorate and com- ]iendious enartnicnt. TOAVNSHir SI:RVKYS. Thest' Acts first provide lor tlic laying olf of Crown Lands as fai' as practicalile, in (niadiilaleral townships, containing thirty- six sections of one mile s(piai(' each. Each section is to be divided into ([uarter seriions of l(jO acres. Provision is ahso made for grants of a half-quarter section, or eighty acres, and of a ijuarter-(|nartei' section, or forty acres. OKBIN AKY rURCHASK AXD SALK OF I.AND. Section 12th ])rovides that unapju'opriated Crown Lands, the surveys of which have liccn duly made, shall be ojien for pur- . chase, in entire sub-di vision of sections, or in lots, at an Tipset ]trice to be tixed by the ( iovernoi' in Council, according to the location and value of such lands, the upset })rice in no case to be less than thirty cents per acre. Every such grant to be upon the condition that the grantee shall, within five years from the date of the grant, buna fide clear and rultivate ten aci-es for every one hundi'ed acres comprised in the grant, and in the same proportion for any less (piantHy. CKOAVN [>AN1)S. 135 I.ICEXSKS OF OCClirATION OF CROWN LAND. Tiic IStli Stctiou pi'ovidcs lui' the issue of licenses of occupa- -liuu of uiuijipropriated Crown Land, on payment of a fee of five -dolliirs for eaeli one liumlreil and sixty acres, and for not more than (1,400 acres, suhject to tlie condition that tlie licensee shall, ^vitliin two years, settle upon tlie land one family for eacli 160 .acres, and for a period of live years cause to he cleai'ed at least; two acres per year for every 100 acres so licensed, and continue -the same under cultivation, and continue the same families thereon, or others in lieu thereof, for a period of ten years from the exiiiivitiun of tlie said five years ; u]>on th / performance of which conditions the licensee shall be entitled to a grant in fee ,of the said land. HCENSKS KNTITI.ING TO GRANTS. The IGtli section provides for the issue of licenses of occupation of areas of 5,000 acres, which licenses shall entitle the hohler to .grants in fee on performance of the following terms and condi- tions : that the holder of the license shall, within two years from the date of the license, clear an<l have ready i'or crop at least one per cent, of the area comprised in the license ; within three years .two per cent. ; within four years, foiu- per cent. ; within five years, seven ])er cent. ; within six years, ten jier cent. ; within .seven years, thirteen per cent. ; within eight years, sixteen per cent. ; within nine years, twenty per cent. ; \\ithin ten years, .twenty-five per cent. ; and shall settle upon the land at least one family for CAcry 320 aci'es. FIFTY ACKKS' LICENSES. The 17th section provides for the issue of licenses of occupation i'or t|uantilies not exceeding lifty acres, entitling to a grant in fee persons who shall continuously occnpy for five years anil shall have culti\-ated within that period two acres oi the said land. WATER rOAV'ER LEASES. The 18th section provides for leasing the water power of lakes and rivers, guarded with conditions for preventing the water lieing reduced helow certain levels or being rendered noxious or deleterious. 136 CROWN LANDS. LICKXSK FOK FISH-BRKKDIXG. T]ie lOtli !<eftioii iiroviiles for leasing for a ti'im oi' years the- use of any pond or river, and sucli quantity of land ailjoining as- jiiay be necessary for such 2)uri)Ose8, suliject to such terms and conditions as may be deemed necessary. HOMESTEAD LAW— (36tli VICTORIA.) Sections 24 to 48, inclusive, provide for Homestead Estates and Homestead rights. Any person who shall settle on any of the wilderness lauds of the colony and cultivate and improve the same, and erect a (hvelling-house thereon, shall lie entitled to an estate of homestead therein not exceeing twenty acres, and xuch homestead, and all right and title therein, shall l>e exempt from attachment, le\y, or execution, sale for the payment of his tlebts or othei- purposes, and from the laws of conveyance, dis- tribution, anil devise or bequest, except as further provided in the Act. GRAXT IN FEE FOR HOMESTEAD. Any head of a family, or male of tlu' age of eighteen, may, hy paying a fee of S'lO, obtain a location ticket for any ([uantity not exceeding one humlred and sixty acres for the purpose of securing a homestead right. To secure a grant in fee of such homestead, the holder of the location ticket must commence clearing within six months after its date ; must build a house tit for habitation of not less dimensions than twenty feet by sixteen, iind clear and cultivate not less than three acres within two years, six acres within three years, and continuously cultivate all the land cleared during sucli three years, and reside con- tinuously upon such land for the term of three years next suc- ceeding such date, and thence up to the issue of the grai^t. A person holding a location ticket for a homestead right shall be entitled, on payment of a fee of ten dollars, to receive a license to occupy an adjoining one hundred and sixty acres, or less, quantity of Crown land then unreclaimed ; and, at tlie expira- tion of the period of three years, he shall be entitled to a grant of tlie said land so licensed at the Government ]iriiH' of thiity cents an acre. n;i»v.x LAN! IS. 1.37 IM3IIGKANTS IX C031MI NITIKS. Tlic 40tli st'ctimi makes provision for tlie M'ttlfiuuiit of iiuiui- grauts in coiiniiuuitie.s, ami of lionic-twul settlers in groups of not less tlian twenty families, should sudi desire to st.4tle to- gether ill liamlets or villa<;es. In snch cases the Governor in Council may, at discretion, vary the requii'ements as to rtsi- dence, but not as to cultivation of each separate quarter section as a homestead. TIMBEK AND TIMBKK LANDS. Sections 54 to 65, inclusive, regulate the lea.sing of tiniLer lands, aul)ject to such reservations as are necessary for tlie pur- poses of the fisheries. LICENSES TO CUT TIMBER. After one month's notice in the Roijnl (j(c:i-ftc the Governor in Council may grant licenses to cut timl)er on the ungranted Crown lands for a period not exceeding twenty-one years ; the lessee to erect a saw-mill or mills of a certain caj^acity, and com- mence work within two years from the date of said license ; also to pay, ill addition to the Ixuius, an annual ground-rent of two dollars 2)er stpiare mile, and further, a royalty at the rate of fifty cents per 1,000 feet, board measure, on the trees cut down. For the other conditions attached to timber licenses the Acti itself must be consulted. PAPER PULP ACT. The Governor in Council may, after one montlfs notice in the Royal (rKrcettc, grant licenses to cut timber on ungranted Crown lands, in extent not less than five or more than one hundred and fifty square miles, which shall be in one parcel or block, for the jnirpose of manufacturing paper or jiaper pulp, for a period not exceeding ninety-nine years, and containing the following con- ditions : The licensee, on the issue of his license, to pay at the rate of twenty dollars for each sf[uare mile of land included in liis license : and, at the end of twenty-five years of the said term, a further sum at the rate of twenty dollars for each square mile ; and, at the end of fifty years a similar sum, and at the end of I.jS crdwx lands. sev(-'iity-livc wars a t'lutlier saiu of iIil' saiuf aniouiit for each ,s([uari' mile'. Also, tlic licfiHL'e shall, witliiu five years al'ter the (late o[ his li(_v'iise, l'X]>l'1ii1 a smu of nut less than ^1,000 for eacli sciuare mile on the ei-eetiou of l>uil(lin<>'s and machiuery for ^aitl manufaeture, said exj>en litnre to commence within two years of the date of license. See the Act itself for other ciMiditions. MINKRAL, LAND. "When any p,'rs(jn shall discover a vein, lode or depo-it of mineral, and desires to ohtain a lease, lie shall mark the land by foiii- lioundary posts or cairns, the extent of enclosed land not to exceed one s(piaiv mile, and shall, a-i soon as possible, apply to the Snrveyor ( reneral for a license, and deposit a lee of twenty dollars ; the first notice Hied to give in-iority of claim. The first license shall be i'or a year ; a payment of thirty dollars shall entitle to a liceir>e for another year ; and a further sum of fifty <lollars to an extension for another year. During the second year the licensee must expend the sum of two hundred dollars, or its et[uivalent in labour, in exploring and developing the minerals in the saiil mining location ; during the third year four hundred dollars must be spent in further development. At any time during the continuance of said license, oi' renewals thereof, the lii'eiisee may apply for a lease of the location, de2)0siting with ihe Sui'veyoi- (ieneral the sum of fifty dollars, when the Gover- nor in Council may issue a mining lease and a lease of fifty acres of unoccui)ied surface land within such mining location^ for the term of five years from the date of application therefoi'. Ijut such lease shall lie subject to the condition that the lessee .shall expen<l in and about the working of such nniies and nune- rals, diu'ing each of the first four jears from the date of the lease, the sum of eight hundred dollars, and during the fifth year two thousand eight hundi'e(l dollars. GOLD. Sub-se'.'!ions of Section Tlsf ]irovide that licenses of search for gold over an aica not exceeding one-half sipiare mile, may be issued foi' a pericjd of one year on payment of a fee of ^25 ; re- CIIOWX LANDS. 139" lu'walili' for auotlier yi-ai- on payment of a fee of S'')0. Leases to iiiiue ami work gold, over an area not exceeiling one-(|narter of a sijiiare mile may be issneil for a ])erio(l of 21 year.-, sulijcrt tn a Iloyalty of 3 per rent, on the gold mined. AGKICUI.TUllAL ACT- .->-J VICTOKIA. This Act i)rovide.s for the ai>i)ointment, hiennially, of a Boanl of Agriculture of nine jjersons, nominated hy the (Juvernoriu Couneil, of whom the Surveyor Geneiul is to he one. This Boaid is to promote the formation of agricultural societies throughout the Colony ; to acquii'e and ditfusc infoiiiiation about the rei[uiremeuts of agricultuiv ; to introduce improved hreeils of animals, new varieties of grain seeils, ])lants, etc.; to supervise and conduct a Stock or Model Fai'in ; to hold exhibi- tions of agricultui'al ]>roducts, animals and domestic manufac- tures, etc. The sum of $?5,000 per annum is apj)ropriated for the use of this Boaid. An Agricultural Society may be formed in any locality when 25 persons lieconie members, each jjaying not less than SI annually to the funds thereof; eaidi societv is entitled to draw from the grant to the Central Board an amount equal to double the amount of the subscriptions of the nu-mbers so raised and paid. SHKEP FARMING. The 104th section provides for granting licenses of occupation upon ungranted Crown Lands for the purpose of shee})-i'arming to the extent of three square miles for each license (such licenses not to exceed ten in number), for a period of ten years, subject to such tei'uis ami conditions as the Governor in Council mav determine. The lessee will become entitled to a grant in fee of the land so licensed, jirovided he maintains on the land so licensed a Hock of at least 500 sheep for a period t)f ten consecu- tive years. An oft'er is made of a bounty of .S'4G0 to be paid to the first two persons or companies, nr to any one of them, who- shall actually establish, stock with 500 sheep, and work sheep- i'ju'ms in the island, in accordance with the terms ol' tlie Act. chaptj:r VII. THE FISHERIES. The tislieries of Ncwfouudlauil cmistituU' the graiul staple in- <lu>tr\' of the couutiy. The gathering in of tlie sea-liarvest ha^ been and will long continue to he the chief employment of its jieople. On the exj^ort of the p)ro(lucts of the fi.sheries the trade of tlie colony mainly depends. Other induslries are developing a.s years roll on ; luit as yet thest- do not compare with the tisli- ing interests. Tliis appears very clearly tiom the census returns of 1891 which show that out of a po])ulatiun of 202,000 thei'e are 54,775 engaged in catching and curing fish ; while 825 aie en- gaged in lumbering ; 1,258 in mining and 1,058 in factories and Avorkshops, and 8,Gfi8 in otliei- employments. The products of till' fisheries constitute about four-fifths of the entire e.xjjorts. AVKKA(}K EXPORT OF FI.SHERY PRODUCTS. The following tal)le comjiiled from the Customs' Returns for the year 1891, the latest reliable returns which are available, >sliows tlie value of the exports of fishery i)ro(lucts for that year : Codfish, (dried) $4,032,201 " (boneless) 20,000 "• (green) 7,240 Oil, (cod) • 227,892 " (cod-liver) 3,798 " (Herring) 360 " (Seal) 414,584 " (Wliale) 3,600 Salmon (Pickled) 78,553 (Preserved) 1,758 Skins (Seal) 364,854 Sounds and Tongues . . . . 460 Loljsters 429,681 H.-rring (Frozen 21,539 " "(Pickled) 188,905 Total . . . $-5,794,925 THE FISHERIES. 141 KXPORTEU FROM I.AIJKADOR. 'Co.Ifi^li (Dried) ^832,324 Heiriiig 12,ir)3 .Salmon 13,034 Cod Oil r),852 Seal Oil 1,242 .Sealskins 127 Tiv.ut 228 .(hvL-nHsli 806 Total . . . -^865,766 Total ('>:|)i)rts lislu'rv ]>roilucts IVom Niid. and Lal.radoi- ,^^(;,GG0,691 The foregoing may lie regarded as fairly representing the mean annual yield of the tishcries in recent yeais. AVhen to this we add the value of Ihe tish con.sumed hy the people in the country, estimated at .$'400,000, we obtain ^7,060,691 a.s the average an- nual value of the whole fisheries of the country. lANADIAN FISHERIES. In 1891, the total value of the Canadian fisheries, including the salt water, lake and I'iver fisheries, was -$'18,978,078. KINDS OF FISHES, The iirinci])al commercial food fishes taken in Newfoundland waters are the cod, the heia-ing, the salmon and the lol).?ter. The seals are ta'ken amid the ice-fields off the north-eastern shore of the island,, and also in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, off the south- western and western coasts. NUMBERS OF FISHERMEN. The cod, salmon, herring and lobster fisheries are prosecuted on the shores and in the hays of the island ; the cod fishery i.s .also carried on upon the Great Bank and on the coast of Labra- dor. The number of men engaged in the bank fishery in 1891 was 3,269, hut there has been a decrease in the numlier of men and vessels employed since that date. In 1891, 199 vessels, with :a tonnage af 11,520 tons, took part in the bank fishery. The 142 THE FISTIKIHES. t)tal numliei' nf vt'>rels eiiiiilciVL'il din'ctly in tlic fi^lierios iii; 1891 M-as l,24i' ; tlicir tonnage, ."■)0,04l ton.^. Tlie nmnVii.'r of vessels engageil in the Labiador tislieiy that yeav was 859, with a tonnage *of 33,634. In the lobster factories the number of men employed thatjyear \\as 3,427 ami 1,380 women. Twenty-two stenn vessels took part in the seal tishery of 1893 ; their creAVs nuniliered 4,962 men. Tliose wlio engage in tlie seal hsliery,- which commences Mairli lOtli, afterwaids are employed in the otlier fislieries during the remainder of the year. COD FISHEEV. The cod fislieries of Newfoundland greatly exceed those of any otlier country in the world. The annual average expoit of cod is about 1,350,000 (piintals of 112 lbs. weight. The Dominion of Canada exjjorts an average of 450,000 quintals, and Norway about 751,000 quintals. The whole Norwegian catch averages 50,000,000 codfish. The aggregate annual catch of cdd in North American waters, (including the fisheries on flie 1 tanks), by French, American, Canadian and Newfoundland fishermen, is estimated at 3,700,000 ([uintals. The nundter ol' coilfish cap- tured to make up this weight of dried fish, allo-wing fifty to a ({Uintal, would be 18."),000,00U. This enormous anniial draft on- these extensive fisliing grounds has lieeu going on iVir centuries- without exhausting the supply, so prolific ai'e the codfish in these waters. EVOLUTION OF THIO COI> FIS^HKKY. For nearly four hirndred yeai's this fishery has lieen i)rosecntcd.- It ])egan a few years after Cabot's discoveries in 1497. The Bas(|ue, Normandy and Brittany fishermen led the way, and for a considerable time had these newly-discovered coil-kingdoms to tlieniselve.-. In the name Port-aux-Basque, the westei-n tei'minus of the new line of railway, and Harbour Bieton, these fishermen have left relics of themselves in Newfoundland ; while the island of Ca^ie Bieton obtaint'd its name lidui these anciiMit mariners. The English Avere at this time maiidy occupied with a lucrative fishery on the coasts of Iceland ; and though Newfoundland waS' THE FISHERIES. 14o' <liscovei'e(l by tlieii- own explorers, tliey at lirst took no pait in tl)e prosecution of its ricli tislicries. Tlieiv i^ a cuiidiis li-tter preserved in " Purclias's Pilgrims." Tlie writer was a certain John Rut, master of an English vessel Avhicli, liy some chance, fnuml its way to the Harhour of St. John's, wlieri- he addressed this letter to King Henry VIII. It liears tlie (hUc of August 3rd, 1.127. Among other things tlie Avriter inf'oi-nieil His Majesty tliat he found in the Harbour of St. JnhiTs eleven vessels from Normandy, one from Brittany and two from Portugal, all en- gage;! in fishing, but no English vessels, which honest John considered a shame, seeing that the island belonged to England, and that other nationalities were profiting liy these valuable fisheries. "Whether the hint thus conveyed had any etfect or not, we tind that a dozen years later, A^essels from London, Bristol, Bideford, and Barnsta])le were engaged in lishing on the Banks of Newfoundland. In 1578 fifty English vessels were en- gaged. in the fi.shery on the Banks or along the .shores ; and when Sir Humi)hrey C4illiert arrived in 1.583, he found thirty-six .ships in St. John's Harbour of which .sixteen were English. Even at that early pei'iod, so well were the extent and value of these fisheries understood, tliat Lord Bacon declared " they contained richer treasures than the mines of Mexico and Peru"" — a i-emark ■which time has amjily verified. KNGI.ISH FISHKKMEN. The merchants and traders of the western countie.-- of England speedily discovered the importance of the Ne\\foundland fish- eries, and embarked exten.sively in their prosecution. They established fishing stations along the eastei-n coa.st of the island, sending out large numbers of tishernien in the spring who re- turned at the close of each season. AVhen Captain Whitliourne arrived in 161."), he found 170 English \-essels emiiloyed in fish- ing ; and in 1626 Devon.sliire alone sent loO vessels to engage in this industry. The French too, had greatly extended their iishing ojierations, and founded a settlement named Plaisance oi> the shore of Placentia Bav. Permanent settlements of English 144 THE FISHERIES. l)L'gaii to take root in various liarboui's on the eastern and south- ern shores, ami these continued to grow in spite of all ditticulties and discouragements. STRUOGI.E OF KESIUEXT FISHERMEN. Tlien began the long and melancholy struggle, described in the Historical Sketch, lietween "the mercliant a<lventurer.s" who wanted to hold a monopcjly of the fisheries and prevent a set- tlement of the island, and tlie constantly increasing resident pojjulation, which after a century and a lialf terminated in a complete triumph for the latter. So early as 1698, no le.ss than 265,198 (piintals of dried codfish were exixirted, nearly half of -wiiich (juantity was taken by tlie resident population. The cod and other fisheries conlinued to ex])and and extended to Labradoi'. Tlie population increased from year to year, and a corresponding increase in the catcli of fish took place. In 1764 the resident population was 13,112, and the (piantity of codfish exported was 470,118 (piintals. In 1789, the population was 19,106 ; tlie export of cod 649,092. In 181."), for the first tinier, the export exceeded a million (piintals. The following table s]iow.s how the export has fluctuated siuc(' that date, sometimes exceeding a million and a half (piintals, and occasionally falling IicIdw a million : — Ye;u-. Qtls. exported. 1815 1,086,266 1825 973,464 1835 712,588 1845 1,000,233 1850 1,089,182 1854 774,117 1860 1,379,804 1863 1,012,321 1870 . ■. . . . 1,164,535 1872 1,221,156 1873 .. . . 1,369,205 1874 . . . 1,609,724 THK FISHEKIES. 14.") IBTf) 1,136,235 1876 1,364,068 1877 1,029,064 1878 1,074,646 1879 1,387,770 1880 1,583,132 1881 1,463,439 1882 1,231,607 1883 1,642,037 1884 1,397,637 1885 1,284,710 1886 1,344,180 1887 1,080,024 1888 1,175,720 1889 1,076,507 1890 1,040,916 ■ 1891 1,244,834 1892 (Returns iiupfi-fect ; some destroyed in great tire.) 1893 (Retunis not yet published.) INFEKENCES. The foregoing figures clearly indicate that the cod fishery, the .ffrand staple industry of Xewfoimdland, is declining. Since 1825 the i)opulation has considerably more than trebled, so that there are three times as many hand.s engaged in taking fish from the ^\•ater now as hi the year named, and three times as many iiKjuths to be fed. Moreover, the apparatus for taking fish is vastly inci-easi-d and tar more etlicieiit than ibianerlv. Cod- traps, huge seines, nets, ludtows, jiggers, have all been intro- duced in modern days, and the primitive hook-and-line of earlier times is u-ed by a comparatively small number of fishermen. But -w ith all these, the catch has not, increa-ed ; and though fresli fidiiug grounds have b-cn found on Labrador and (tur fishermen liave been extending their oi)jration- tarther and firther noi'th, .on that stoi'm-b,'aten coast, yeai' after year, yet the whole catch of 14G 'J'HE FISHEUIE?;. cod docs not exceed that of 30 or 40 years ago. This is a signal' of " rocks ahead." The supply even of tlie prolific cod is falling off. There are far fewen- cod in the waters than formerly, as all the older fishermen declare. The most serioiis signs of exhaus- tion are in tlie shore fishery, though even ou tlie Banks there are unfavourable indications, in recent years. In some of the bays where formerly cod were abundant the (juantity now taken is very small, and the fishermen whose fathers u-ed to fill their boats with the n(jl)le coil within sight of their own doors, have now, with great increase of toil and hardshijis, to seareli fur them along the grim shores of Labi-ailoi-. CAUSES OF DECLINE IN COD FISHEKV. The causes of this decline are not ditticult to discovei'. Eeek- less and destructive modes of fishing, unrestrained by any legal enactments, or proper rules and regulations, have gone on for generations. Lnmature fish, in countless myriads, have been destroyed before "repeating the story of their liirth." Imple- ments of a deadly and destruetive nature have been used — some of these taking the gravid nu)ther-tish in vast numbers and others, such as nets with very small meshes, have recklessly de- stroyed the young fish before reaching their reproductive age,, and at a time when they are almost useless as articles of food. The observance of "close seasons,"" when the tish are spawning, was neglected. There was no minister or department of tisheries charged with the duty of sujiervision, and of establishing and enforcing wise rules and regulatitais. Laws wei-e passed by nu;n who were groping in the dark, being utterly unacquainted \\ith fish-life, in any scientific sense, and such laws soon beranu- merely dead letters, no provision for enforcement Ijeiug ma'le. REMEDIES APPLIED. It is not wonderful to find that under such a system, the fish- eries of cod, herring, salmon and lobsters have been showing alarming signs of decline, and in some places of utter exhaustion. Five years ago the remedy was a])plied, and not a moment too- soon. A Fisheries Commission was api)ointed, and this became THE FISIlEliTES. 147 ;a Department of Fislierii's in 1893. At the head of it i.s a Com- missioner of Fisheries, and a skill'nl scic'iititic Superintendent of Fisheries in charge of the practical work. Well-considered rule.s .and regulations, liaving legislative sanction, designed for the jji-otection and re.storation of tlie fisheries, are now strictly en- forced. Farther on in this volume an account of the means adopted to secure tliese ends will he given. It may he fairly anticipated that, under tliis cnliglitened plan, not only will the pre>ent decay of the fisheries be arrested, hut that in due time, the exhausted \\aters will he rejdenished, and former abundance ii'estored. The methods of curing fish of all kinds, and preparing .andjiacking them foi market, will be impioved, and eonsequ-nit- ly tlu' value of the various proilucts enhanced. THE FUTURE OF THE COD FISHERY. Thus, under the better regulations now introduce<l, the Xew- foundland fisheries have a bi-jghti'r future befoi-e them and will become incieasingly a source of wealth to the country. The demand for our noble codfish is not likely to fall ofi". Catholic .countries alone, in connection with the sea-ou of Lent and the Aveekly fast on Fridays, s2)end annually nearly a million sterling ■in the purchase of cod taken in North Ameiican seas. So far from declining in value, the jjrice of Newfoundland cod has ail- ■vanced from fifty to seventy-five ])er cent, within the last (juarter <jf a century. While there is a difiiculty, very often, in finding a market for English manufiictured goods, the demand fcu" cod never fails ; and under the new and im2)roved methods of cure and lacking, as in the article known as "lioneless codfish," its use is ra})idly extending, while every portion of the fish is now turned to some purpose of 2)ractical utility. The impro^■ed method of manufacturing cod-liver oil has greatly enhanced its value in a medicinal point of view. The finest glue is made from the skin of the cod ; and from the bones and head a valu- alile fertilizei'. Railways, in cod-consuming countries such as Brazil, Spain and the Mediterranean coinitries, have cheapened its transport into their interior, and increased its consumption ; 14vS THE l-JSHKiJIES. and a- tlic railway systi^iu cxte'iuls tlie demand is likely to grow.- To tilt' iulialntants of warm enuntries the diieil vod i'uvnislK'.s a i)alatalile article of food, and many of them regartl it as indis- pensalile. Since the days of Cervantes and Don Quixote, the ilried cod, nnder the nld l!a>([Ur name of 6«crrt/((o or nim(UU<i has lieen in use, and i.- now more appreciated than ever. Thus a cod-pi'oducing country, like Newfoundland, possesses in tliis iu- dustrv, a .source of pvo>pi-rity that can never fail, and which the fluctuations of trade, tn- the raprice.s of fashion cannot seriously affect. Let Xewfouudland only cherish and develope her great- coil fishery, and in it her peojije have a mainstay that will ever ])rove a source of national wealth. THE AKCTIC CIJRKKNT LIVING SLIMK IT CAIililKS. There is another consideration which empha.sizes the .secvuity and permanence of this cod fishery. The Arctic Current, which washes the .shores of Lahrador and Newfoundland, is laden with the food on which the commercial fishes live and thrive, and l)rings with it a ne\er-failing sui)ply for their sustenance. 80 far from being unfavourahle to tlie production of life, the Arctic .seas and the great iiver> which they send forth ai'e swarming with minute forms of life, constituting, in many places, " a living mass, a vast ocean of living slime."' Swarms of minute crusta- ceans, annelids and mollusca feed on this " .slime," and in their turn become the tooil c>f larger marine animals, even up to the giant whale. Curiously I'nough this ocean .slime is most abun- dant in the coldest waters, and esjjecially in the neighbourhood of ice-fields and ice-bergs. Thus, then, the great ice-laden "river in the ocean" which rushes out of Baffin's Bay, carrying on its bo.som myriads of ice-bergs, and washing the shores of Lal)rador and Newfoundland, is swarming with the mim;te forms of marine life, from the diatom to the minute cru.stacean, and the crab and prawn, together with the molluscous animals and starfish in vast profusion, which contribute to the support of the great schools of cod which also find tlieir home there. Very wonderful are these great processes of nature. These vast battalions of ice-bergs, the THE FISPIKItfES. 149 ' terror of mariners, si.iiliii<i majestiailly pa-t these sliores, ami often grouudiiig along Lal)iad()r and in tlie 1>ays of Xewfound- land — bring with tlieia tlie " slinie-iood" on whicli the almost microscopic crustaceans live. These in tuin furnish food for tlio. caplin, the squid and the hciiing whicli, with multitudes of other forms, are devoured liy tlit- cod. Wlicu tin- end is assimilated by man, this great circle of nature i> complete. So long then as the Arctic cuirent flows the existence of the cod-tishery of New- foundland is assured. For the natural history of the cod, its distribution, movements, .spawning, modes of its capture ami cure, etc., the reader is re- ferred to " Hatton and Harvey's Newfoundland — the 01de>t British Colony." THK SKAL FISHEKV. Next to the i-od tishery tlie most valuable of tlie Newfoundland fi.sheries is that of the seal. While the cod fi.shery has been pro- secuted for almost four hundred years, the seal tishery is not more than ninety years old. It would aii[)ear tliat the attention of the people was so aljsorljed in capturing and curing cod that they neglected the oleaginous treasures which the vast ice-fields every year brought within their reach ; and the great seal-herds, were left to bring forth their young amid the icy solitudes, un- disturbed by the murderons gun, club and knife of tlie .seal hunter. But this paradisaical condition of the seal was not to la.st forever. The day at length came when the hunters forced their way through the crystal I'amparts by which nature had so long guarded these heli)les.s innocents. The nursery of countless mother seals was ti-ansfornied into a slaughterhouse, red with the blood of their murdered darlings, slain in their icy cradles ; and it became a .scene of horror and deatli. Such is the seal hunt of to-day, involving each year a vast destruction of old and young- seal life for the benefit of man. EVOLUTION OF THE SEAL FISHERY. The value of the seal for human nses and the right method of capturing it in these regions were slowly learnul. At first, seals 150 THE FISHERIKS. were taken iu nets, Avliich were placeil between llie shore and some islaml m- roek iit uu great distance. In their luigratorv movements, in tlie early part ot" winter, tlie seals move south along the shore ; and hy means of nets, in these narrow pas- sages, a certain niunljer were captured. The next step was shooting them IVmii large boats, amid the ice-Hoes. These Ijoats sailed aliout the middle of Api-il, after the ice liail broken up ; and, as at that date tiie yonng seals had left their icy cradles and taken to tlie water, only a few could be reached by the gnns ot" the huntei-s. As late as 1795 the Mhole catch of seals only amounted to OjOOO per annum. SKALING SCHOONEKS. At length an im[iortant step in advance was taken liy fitting . out small schooners of from thirty to fifty tons, and cavryiiig from twehe to eighteen men, the outfit of each ^'essel costing about three Inindivd dollars. The vessels were strongly built , and had apjilianees for encountering ice. At first they did not leave i»nrt till after the 21st of March, in order to avoid the .equinoctial gales, or '' St. Patrick's brush,'"' as they were called. Soon, however, tliev learneil by experience the advantage of making an earlier start, in order to reach the young harps before the\ had taken to the watei'. The first of March at length be- .came the usual time for starting on the seal hunt. In tlu'se little schooners the men speedily acquired hardihood and daring and became ex})erl in Ijattling with the floes. The people oi .^Conception Bay led the way in this new enterprise, and Car- bonear, Harlior (irace, Bay Roberts, Cupi<ls and Brigus became the centres of the sealing industry. The skippers of these seal- ing vessels, some of which wei-e one hundred tons, became "mighty hunters'' of seals, and many of them ac(ptired con- siderable wealth. St. John's, the capital, followed, ami had soon one hundre<l vessels engaged in taking seals. In those days seals M'ere murh more iiumeronsand ^\•ere taken neaiei- tlie shore than at the ])resent time. So remunei'ative was the new industry iound to lie tliat its growth was wonderfully i"i]iid. In 1805 THK nsJIElMKS. 151 -.tlu" uuiuljer of swds taken was 81,000; in 1815, 120,31."); in 1821, 227,193 ; in 1829, 357,523 ; in 1830, 558,942 ; in 1831, .686,836 ; in 1833, 350,155 ; in 1840, 631,385. These were the palmy days of tlie i^eal flsheiy to whicli the .seal hunteis of to-day h)ok back Avitli sad regrets as " the good .old times" tliat can never i-etuiii. I"]) till 1857 some four liitu- dred vessels, of from sixty t(j two liundreil tons, their nniteil .crews numliering thirteen thousand ni;'n, took pail in the tisli- .eiy. After 1850 a decline seenrs to have set in. There wei'e more failures and fewer succes-ful seasons. Occasionally the .catch approaclicd lialf a million, and, as in 1858, somewhat ex- .ceeded that numlu-i-. Wlidlicr the falling oif arose from an actual diminution in the numlier of seals, or the unfavourahle .condition of the ice and tlie winds, which jjrevented the vess(ds fiom reaching them, or from lioih causes, cannot now he de- termined. SKALING STKAMEKS. In 18G3 the great innovator, steam, entered the held aiid the fir.st .steanu-r look jiait in this tishery. The value (jf steam in .connection with Aritic exploi-ations had lieeu jireviously demon- strated : and ere long its introduction c^tmpletely revolutionizeil the seal hshery. It was soon found that steamers strongly l)uilt .and sheathed for encountering ice, jiossessed a great superiority over the old sailing vessels. They could cleave their way through ice in which the sailing vessel would he powerless ; they couM hold on to a "seal ^xxtch" when the other wouhl be blown ott" ; and carrying larger crews, could bring in immen.se loads of pelts when the seals were met with in abundance. In consequence, the nitndaer of steamers rapidly increased, and sailing vessels still more rapi<Ily diminished. In 1866, there were 177 .sailing vessels and five steamers ; in 1873 there were eighteen steamers, and in 1882 twenty-tive steanu'rs. At present there are twenty-two steamers. They are from 350 to 500 ton* burthen and each carries from 200 to 300 men. The larger class can In-ing in from 30,000 to 40,000 seals, jvhen thev obtain a full load. In one instance 41,900 seals were 152 THE riSIlICIMKS brought in by a .-iiigk' steamer tlie Xcphiiu-, tin- wi-iglit of fat being 874 tuns ; A'alue §103,750. Cajjtaiu Hlanilfnid was cinu- nianiler. In 1885 the steamer J'r.-iolntr brought in 34,628 st-als,- the gross v.eiglit being 772 tons ; tlie averagr weight of tlie [)elts ^ (fat ami skin) being 50 lbs. In llic sanu' yc-ai, ihc sir. Hmnji'r' took 30,112 seals, the gross -wiMglil luMug 75.") tons ; ilu' average weight of seal 47 ll)s. WJicu they i-ntereil poll tlic (k'l'ks of these heavily laden vessels v.L-re hardly twelve inrlie.- abo\c water' at nuil-ships. Every nook and ciaiiuy was iilleil with ]ielts. The men's berths were tilled ; luo.-l of the coal had lieeii ihrown (iverb(_iai'd to make room for the juvrioiis lal : and the decks were' ])iled with }ielts, one of them having 7,100 on hei' <leck. These,- of course, are rare instance- of success. Not infrei[Uent]y, how- ever, a steamer I'eturus to port ''clean." In had years the catclp may not exceed 200,000. In 1892 it was 348,024 ; a fair voyage.- 3'.ut in 1893 it fell to 129,001— tlie ]>oorest retuiii on ri'cord.- The cause an as, not the sc:ircity of senls Imt the unfavourable" condition of the ici' which \\"as A"ei y hea\y, and jammed togetlu'r' in huge massi's which nevei- ojiened. In 1894, it is eslimaled that the united catch of all the steamers (22 in number) will not exceed 142,000 .seals ; but the strong easterly winds which "[lacked the ice on the .shores and tilled nj) the liays, brought the young seals within reach of the people on shoiv who took about 120,000. Su(di are the uui'ertainties attending this jiei'ilous industry, ■which is dei>endent on the winds and wa\es ami the movements . id' the great ice-tields, annd which ihe young seals are born and nin-tured, ami Avhere they must be sought. There can be no doubt, however, that the intioduction of steamers has, at least I'or the present, been injurious to the interests of the ]ioor seal* liuuters. As in. all similar cases, the introiluctiou of machinery' tends to eliminate man. The work is done by far i'ewei- h;uids,- and those who are thus thrown idle have to seek i'or emjiloy- ment elsewhere, and, in too many cases, can at first find none. The gathering in of the seal harvest is now done wilh less than half the nundier of hands emjiloyed in the days of .sailing ve>;- i+el.?, and every year large nuinliers are unable to oV)tain berth? Tin: KISIIKRIES. I."."/ on lioanl tlie ft^'aiiu-i^, wlm^i- uiiilcil cie\v.- do ikiI cxrcL-il 'i,C>0(). The (•()>t of titting out a ■^caliiiL; >leamev is \a-i-y giral, aii'l il may In- iliiiilitcil wIh'Iir-i', ouc Vi-ar willi anollu'!-, tin- caiiitalist- fiini it a very jnofitalilc iii\ e-.-tiiuiil. The pi-izi^s, liowt-viT, aio .-<r ciKuaiinii- tliat, in spitr <it' tailuii-.- aiul disappointments, tlie seal tislii-rv will continue to attract enterpri/ing capitalists. The losses of one or t\^'o sea-nn- are expected to be made good by the success oF a tlui'd. At all e\ euls it is idle to expect that steanier.s^ will ever be withdrawn IVom tlii> industry and the old sailing- vessels re-iiitrodiu;eil. As well look for the abolition of railways and the restoration of stage coaches. Men and affairs will adju.-t themselves, in dui- time, to the change ; but a certain amount of sittfering, in the tran>iti(in >tage, is inevitable, as in all similar revolutions in estaldi-ln-il indu>trie>. THE Fl'Tl ICi: OF THK SKAI. FISHKItY. Tlu-i'e is no reason why the seal tishery slamld not long con- tinue to lie a source ol wealtli tn the country. Wise restrictinns have ln'cn, by legislative enactment, recently jilaced on tlie pro- secution of this indu-try. Formerly every one '"did what was- right in his own eyes."' The [)ursait of the old breeding seals was followed up, after a heavy draft had been made on tin- young, in the earlier part of the season, and thousands on thou- sands of these mature seals, on which the maintenance of the species depended, wia-e ruthlessly slaughtered. This, in the end, would have exterminated the seal. Steamers are now j^rohibiteil from making second trii)s, and no seals are to be killed after April 20th. This Avill, to a large extent, prevent the destruction of oLl seals ; furthei', no .-teamer is allowed to leave ]iort for the seal tishery till March litli, and no seals can be killed till IMarch 14th. This prevents the taking of seals that aie immature. These regulations, which arc rigidly enforced, will tend to the conservation of this industry, the value of which to the colony may be estimated at half a million to three-quarters of a million dollars. Its value is enhanced by the consideration that it can be jirosecuted at a time when othei' northern countries are locked 154 'I'lIK FlSHERIE^l. ill icy fetti'i-s auil tlicir ])eople idle. Al)()ut tlie iniildle of Mairli the haidy Newluunillainl seal lumtei-s da^li out into the eiasliiiig ice-Hoes, aud in a c.)niile of iiioiitlis the work is done, and a ndllion dollar.- I'.-aliscd. It intertV-res with no other indnstry, .and the men who take jurt in it can follow up the summer lishery or engage in the cultivation of the soil. Formerly the aveiage annual value of this tislu-ry was over a million dollars, lint the }iric'_- of seal oil has seiionsly declined. HOW SKALS AKK TAKKN. The young seals are born on the ice which the Arctic current carries i)ast the.se shores, fiom the 15th to the 20th of February ; and as they grow lapidly and yield a much tiner quality of oil than the old ones, the (object of the hunters is to reach them in their babyhood, while \ et fed by their mothers' milk, and Avheii they are powerle.ss to escape. So rapidly do they grow that by the IGth of Mari'h tliey ai-e in the best condition to be taken. By the 1st of April they begin to take to the water and can no longer be easily captureil. Sumewhere amid these \ast iey wildeines.ses the seals nuv'^t be .-(Uight. When the x'es.sel reaches an icefield Avhere the seals are visilile, the men eagerly bound on the ice nnd the work of destruction begins. A blow on the nose kills the young seal. Instantly the " sctdping knife ' of the hunter is at work and the skin, with the fat adhering, is detached from the caicass, which is left on the ice : the pelts are dragged over the ice to the vessel whieh conveys them to pnit. The fat and .skins are then separate<l, the former l)eing salted foi exportation, aud the latter manufactured into oil by a ])rocess in which steam is largely used. St. .Inhn's and Harbour ( Ji'ace are the jilaci's where all the seal oil is manufactured. The reader is ii-ferred to " Hatton ami Harvi'y's Newfound- land "' or to the ailicle ''Seal Fisheiies of the AVorld,'' by Rev. M. Har\'ey, in the latest edition of the Ein-ijilDpunUii llritannicH' 1'or lull details regarding the natural history of the seal and the mode in which the fi.shery is conducted. The following ligTii-e's show the nundx'r of seals taken in the ^•(•ars named : — THE FISHERIES. 155 Year. Xo. seals taken I8.-)8 507,624 18r)9 . 329,202 1860 . 375,282 1861 . 375,282 1862 . 268,426 I860 . 359,821 1871 . 537,084 1872 . 278,372 1874 . 398,366 1876 . 500,000 1877 . 451,678 1878 . 409,658 1879 . 457,855 1880 . 223,793 1881 . 447,903 1882 . 200,-500 1883 . 322,603 1884 . 266,290 1885 . 238,586 1886 . 272,656 1888 . 230,525 1888 . 286,464 1880 . 207,084 1890 . 220,321 1891 . 364,854 1892 . 390,174 1893 . 129,061 1894 (t lose taken from tlu' >lioic ncliK led) ( 'stiniiited . 262,885 The following figures show the Seal Fishery since 1885 ; oil and 1885 . 1886 , 1887 . value of tlie products of the kins heing included : — . .S-558,863 . 529,766 . 458,853 156 THE FISHKItlES. 1888 .-)73,984 1889 075,38 1 1890 r.55,031 1891 779,438 1892 865,784 Total ill eight .wars ..S'4,997,]Ui SALMON riSHKKY. Tile ox])i)it of pfe8er\'eil salmon iVoiii XcwrouiuUaiiil does not. constitute a large or important item, seldom reaching in \'aliu' ^^100,000 per annum. It is either jiiekled or put in hermeti- •cally sealed tins. The (piality of the salmon is excellent. Ic is taken for the mo-t pai4 in nets in tlie co\i-s, liays and at ihe mouths of the rivers. Tlie season fi>r taking it is lu'ief, not ex- ceeding six or si'Vi'ii weeks, c(_immencing g(Mi(_'ral]y in the end of May. It is often s(j plentiful in St. John's during this hrief sea- son, that it scdls for five or six cents jier ])oun(l, wliile at the same time it is selling in Loudon and New York for one shilling and sixpence and two shilling steiding ]ier pound. SALMON RIVKKS ItriXKD. There are naturally no finer salmon rivers than those of Xew- founclland. Hnw comes it then that thi- Minrre of \vealtli is so imperfectly turned to account ? Why are ihe eountless luooks and streams around two thousand miles of coast of so little value as salmon rivers ? The answer is, that the proper ])reser- vation of the salmon streams has heeii, for generations, neglected, and human ignorance and the greed of immediate gain have ■wasted and partially destroyed what at this niiniient might he one of the valuahle resources of tlie country. "Barring" the rivers and brooks with nets at the time when tlie fish are ascend- ing to spawn ; constructing weirs, livips and dams ; sweejiing the pools in the rivers with .seine nets, and uight-spearing, have heeu carried on f(jr long periods liy ignoiant and reckless jiersons, till at jiresent, in many rivers, the salmnii are almost exterminated, and in others only grilse of four or live pounds weight are fouml. THE FISHERIES. 157 KIVKK AVAKDENS APPOINTED. Four or live ycar.s ago tlie Fisheries' Commission, on its aji- |)ointment, t(K)k the matter np and phiced the principal rivers umler wardens diarged witli the stringent enforcement of the ruh's ami re-ulalions of tliis tislierv. Tlie I'esult is that the i-ivi'r> liavi" linii clran-d ,<[ tlie old "liarring" obstructions; j(ollutii)n> iif ilu' >treaui> from saw-dust is prevented, and already .a marked imjirovement is reported. Tlie salnnm are returning to their olil haunts, and in a few years satisfactory ])rogress will he made in tin- it-storatiou of the salmon riviis and a vast in- .creasc in the ipiantity of salmon taken may he anticipated. The hest saliunu tislu'ries at present aic in Bouavista Bay, .Gander and Kxploits Bays, and on the west coast. THE HEKKIXG FISHERY. Till' helling tisheiy of Xewfoinidland ha> hei-n sadly neglected. Had it hccu jirosecuted with skill and energy — had care been lH->to\\cd on the cure and packing and had it been placed, years ,ago, uiidci- projier ifgulati(jii>, it niiglit to-day have approached the eod-lislii'iv in xahie. AA'ith Jue care it may still do so. The chief scats oi' the heiiing fishery are Fortune, Placentia, ,St. (ieorgc's and Bay of Islands, Avliile on the whole coast of Laljiudor till- tiiust iR-riiugs are taken. During the last few years the Lalirador lieiring fishery has been unremunerati\-e. Fortune Bay is the centre of a productive winter herring tish- .ery, eomiiiciicing generally aljoiit the first ^\eek in December. St. (ileurge's is a spring herring fishery, a small quantity being also taken in August and Sej^tend^ier. The Bay of Islands fi.shery is the nu)st \aluable next to Labrador, but in recent years it has proved a failure. The fish there are the Bank or Labrador her- ring, and of the finest quality. Bonne Bay herrings are equally good. The value of the herrings exi)orted in 1891 was .S'lRi'^,905. EFFECTS OF NEGEIGEXCE, The effect of negligence and ignorance in connection with this fishery has been that the Xewfoundland herrings have lost char- .acter' in foreign markets and ilcpreciateil in value. Tlie cure 158 THE fisheries;. was slovenly and they were shipped in liadly constructed LaiTels.- Natnrally, they compare favourably with the herrings of any other country, and they ajipear in inexlianstihle quantities. The" Department of Fisheries is now taking active measures for re- medying past negligences and putting an end to reckless methods-' of carrying on this industry. Tliey are ditl'using information as to the proper method of cure and packing ; and enforcing rules for its proper prosecution. A great change for the better has- commenced. rOISSTKR FISHKRY. The loljster fishery i> comparatively of recent origin, the' packing for export or tinning of these valualile crustaceans^ having commenced in 1873. The following figures show how this industiy has advancef? .'-ince that date : — EXPORT OF LOBSTERS. Year. Ll.s. 1874 25,814 1875 .... 144,723 1876 290,208 1879 1,168,808 1880 1,124,580' 1881 1,299,812 1882 1,265,224 1883 862,528 1884 531,226- 1885 824,064 1886 1,454,912" 1887 2,097,092 1888 3,360,672 1889 3,658,368 1880 3,338,512' 1891 .... 2,749,968 1892 . 1,560,288- 1893 (estimated) . 1,950,360' THE FisirEKiKs. 159 ' According to tlic Cen.su.s of 1891 tluic wcie thou 340 lobster factories ; L-iiiployiiig 4,807 persons. The Report of tlie Department of Fi>heries for 1893 states that licenses were issue(l to 284 packers operating loljster factories be- tween Cape St. John and Cajje Ray. Their return.s .showed that the total lobster traps employed amounted to 87,720 ; the num- ber of tishermeu employed being 1,448 ; 113 smackmen ; 603 shorehands (males), and 756 females ; and tiiat tliey caught 5,054,462 lobsters, from which number 26,214 cases of lobsters (each case containing 48 one-iiound tin>) were ])acked. These returns apply only to the licensed lobstt-r factories ; there were besides a considerable number of unlicensed factories such as those on the French Shore. The weather of 1893 was, in many localities, very unfavourable for taking lobsters. The folhjwing figures show the value of the exports of lobsters in the years named : — Years. Value. 1888 .$-385,077 1889 472,524 1890 520,078 1891 429,681 1892 260,048 Total value of lobster exports in 5 years §'2,067,408 THE DEPARTIVIENT OF FISHERIES. Reference has already been made to the " Fisheries Commis- sion," now named the " De]>artment of Fisheries." Without a fuller account of its objects ami methtxls of working, the descrip- tion of the fi.sheries would be incomplete ; as it may fairly be regarded as the most important organization connected with the.se industries. XEGI^ECTEI> FISHKKIES. It is curious to find that in Newfoundland, one of the greatest fishing countries in the woihl, hardly any attention was given to the supervision and regulation of the tiNheries on which the great 160 THE FISHERIES mass of its people avoiv (.Icpuudent for tlicir breail, until about five years ago. In point of fact, these industries were left to take eare of themselves. There was a popular ludief (hat the fisheries were inexhaustible ; that all which man cduld take from the waters would make in) imjiri'ssiim on their swai-ming h>h-life, '<iood and bad scasmis might (■(inic and gn, but tliese wci'c be- lieved to be jmrely ]iriividentia!, and i|iiite ln-yond human control. Nothing tliat man eiadd do \\(iuld have any ell'ect, either to hel]i or mar the 1i>lieries. Fish were considereil to be too pr-olific to permit the supposition that tlieii- luimber could l.te ]icrce]»tilily diminished by human means. COD FISHKIJIKS DKtXIXINti. These proved to be the dreams of ignorance which tlie stern logic of events af length dissipated. Fisheries began to fail, .especially around the shore. Sevcal of ihe large bays, where cod were once abundant, such as ('once]ition Bay, no longer yiehled enough ti>h to rejtay the toils of the tishermen or give tlu'in bread : and they wei-e <lri\en to seek new tishing-groumls fai- from their homes. The waters were liecoming de])leti-d in many localities, mid the catcli in others was greatly re(hi<'ed. -The number of tho>e engaged in tishing had douliled, am! i)u- pi'oved implements oi all kinds had Ijeen inlioduced ; and still no more fish was taken than foruierly. HOX. A. AV. H.VKVKVS G001> AVOKK, These alarming facts began to im]>ress the unuds of thoughtful men, and to suggest the nei'essity of taking iTompl and eiieigetic measures to meettlu^ evil and to protect and ii'>tore the li.-heries. In this connection it is but just to reler to the able and praise worthy lal)oui-s of the Hon. A. W. Harvey, a meiulter of the Legislative ('ouucil. He had made an intt'Iligeut study of the tisheries, and becauie profoundly iui|ire»ed with the dangers which beset these intlu>tries, from the causes ali'cady referi'cd to, and with the neces-ity for eneigetii- action, iu his place in the <'ouncil he had for inauy years kept the luatter ludbi'e that body ami tlie general public. In able and e.\hausti\e speeches, he tup: FISIIEHIES. 161 ;ii;;iiii ;in(l aL;aiii iirgvil du llu' ( lovL-i-niiK'nt the vital importance -of securiii<;- a tliordugh iuvi'stii^-atiou of tlie tislien-ies:, and of estab- lisliiiig a Bui-cau for llicii' siiiiiTvision. He ])ointed ont that Avhilu all other tishiui^- countries had found it necessary to or- ganize departments for tlie collection of information regarding lish and fisheries, with a \-ie\v to their conservation and super- vision Ijy wise legal enactments, we were in utter ignorance of till- pidjii'r means fur jnoterliiig them and turning them to a mure ]iruhtahh' ariount ; wliile we had no scientitic knowledge whicli wmdil lUaMi' u.- to a'^i-ci1aiu the causes of their decline anil a[)[)ly the pi(i]KT remedies. He advocated strongly the .artificial ])rn])agation of tisli for restocking exhausted salt-water area- and i-i\ci'-. Tuo iiiucli ])raise cannot be accorded this gen- tleman fur ilie cai-uestuess and aliilily with which he urged these views on the Lcgislaliire and the countiy. In due time his l;il)ours l)rought forth fruit, ami he took an active part in the jH-actical application of his views. The aulhoi- of tlii> volume may be jiermitted, without incur- ring tlic (■liar,L;e of egotism, to say that he had long taken an interest in matters bearing on the ti.dieries, and that he had wrtten extensively in sup])ort of the same views, having given <cou.-iilerable attention to the study of tish-life and the prosecution .of the tisheries ill Newfounilland. He too had urged the neces- sity of a Fishi-ries' ( '(Uiimission and the a[)plication of science to the tisheries. C'<)M>riS.SIOX APrOIXTKD. At leiigtl:, ill b^«8, the Legislature sanctioned the nomination <of a " Fishei'ies' Commission" to make iiKpiiries into the consti- tution and woiking of Fisheries Departments in other countries, with the \ie\v to the establishment of a similar Department in Newfoundland. The Hon. A. "W. Harvey was rerpiested to act ;;is chfiirman of the ( 'ommission, an.l the ]iresent writer became its secretary. WOUK IJKOIN. The first step taken by the ("ommission was to issue a circular .-asking for information, which was sent to the Department ot 162 THE FISIIEKIES. Fisheries in the Dominion of Canada, in the United States, in England and Norway. To these conrteousreiilies were received, embodying mnah valualile information. Tlie Commission pre- sented their first report to tlie Legishiture in March, 1888 ; and in June, 1889, an Act was passed constituting a Fisheries. Com^ niis.sion, with the same otticials at its liead, and defining their powers and duties. Tlie Legislature also granted a sum of money, to be expended by the Connaission in carryini;- c>n their o[)era-- tions. SUPKRIN'TKXDKNT OF FISHKltlES. Tile first step taken by the Commission was the ai)pointment of a properly qualified Superintendent of Fisheries. They were fortunate enough to secure tlie services of Mr. Adolph Nielsen, Assistant Inspector of Norwegian Fisheries, a gentleman of higli character, who possessed a thorough scientific and practical know- ledge of fish and fisheries, and was fiimiliar with the whole i^ro-- cess of the artificial projiagation of fish. Since his arrival in Newfoundland, he has devoted himself to the arduous duties of his office M'ith a zeal, energy and ability wliieh merit the highest commendation, and Avhich have won the entire confidence of the Commission, and of those most deeply interested in the fisheries/ His tact, good sense and kindness have done much to overcome the i^rejudices of the fishermen which they nnt unnaturally en- tertained towards new ideas and methods wliith threatened tc upset their time-honoured traditions. They are now beginning to regard him as their Ijeiiefactor. Mr. Neilsen became, of course, the right arm of the Commission ; and the great value of his services is now universally admitted, ffe devoted himself to a thorough investigation of all departments of our fisheries, with the view of ascertaining the causes of their decline, where such had taken place, and applying the proper correctives. He also- devoted much attention to the im]ierfect niethoils of cure and packing which were too often practised, iiointing out and urging' improvements. He divw up a jtaper on "The Cure of Codfish and Herrings," which the Commission imblished and circulated Avidely among the fishermen. Its value may In- judged of fron> TIIR FISIIKIME^;. 16o -tlio I'iict tli-it tlio Irisli Depai'tiiHMit of Fislieries askt-d and oli- taiiiL' 1 permission to rf-])rint it, for the ini'orniation of llie. Irish tislii-rnien ; ami that tlie' French at St. Pit'i-rc' liave tran>hitc<l and published it. Tlic annual reports ot tlie Conunis.siun which are printed and wid(dv eiiculateil cadi yeai-, furnish ampk> iletails of the work <h)ne and eni1)ody all the valuable inforniaticn regard- ing the hsherie-; whicli has l)een collected. AVHAT THK C0M:>IISSI0N HA.S DONE. What are the result- of the lahoui-s of the ("oniniissinn which lias now l)een in o]icration for live years;' It would he impos- sil)lH, ill a work >uch a- this, to ih) more than indicate very biieHy what has Ijeeii accomplished. Fii-st of all, it has been the aim of .the Conimission, as their in\e,-tigations ])i-oceeded and accurate infoi'iuation accumulateil, to diaw u\> a code of rules and regu- lations Avhicli would cDii-erve and improve the fisheries, and jireveiit injurious and destructive methods of fishing, and to make due pro\-ision for the enforcement of such regulations. This was a task of great ditticulty and re(piii-ing much cand'ul .consideration. Though not yer completed, and though the rules still rei[uire amendments, it- may be safely attirmed that already the fisheries of Xewloundland are as well regulated as tho.se of .any other country. The tishermeii are gradually learning that these rules are devise^l for their l)eneht, ami that of future gene- rations ; and are increasingly giving them a willing obedience. Wardens are appointed whose duty it is to enforce these rule.s .and to bring offenders to justice. AKTinCIAL PKOPAGATION Of COD AND LOBSTERS. The Commissiim, however, <lid not conline their efforts to such inve-^tigations. They entered from the very outset on the arti- ficial proiiagation of codfish and lobsters with the view of re-stocking wdiolly or ]iartially exhausted sea-areas, and of sustaining the stock where it was declining under adver.se in- fluences. This was a most importantjleparture ami far-reaching in its consequences, if successful. If by artificial means the fishing grounds, which are more or less depleted of cod or othei- 1G4 THE I-TSIIEl.'lKS. food-tiflies, can bo vestni-fd dr lunri' llian i-iv-lmcil to llicir furiiu'i' productiveness, and if it is p!)->ililc to (iiuntfriiri tlic 1.HV11I- (if heavy drafts, by brei'ding salt-water a> wi-ll a- frr.-li-\vati'r H>lies,. on a lar^'e scale, then a nio.-t inqioitant voik i- d(nic, tin- \aliie oi which it would be ditlicidt to o\cr-e-tiiiiate. Tlini sca-fana- ing lieconies a science, and tin- >tock of (■(umiiei'cial tishcs may be incivasc'd indefinitely with as or^at cerlaiuty as cattle and sheep can be increased on land. Pisciculture pmiuisesto accom- plish this ; and in Xewfoumlland, tiie ureal cxjieriment, on a gigantic scale, is pi'oceeding. Other ti.-hiiig cnuntries are en- gaged in the same ex}n'riments ; but in some res]>ects, this country has taken the lead and maintains a .supremacy. 1)II.1>0 HATCHKKY. The first ste]i taken in the new dep;uturc was the erection of a Cod Hatchery at Dildo Island in Trinity ISay, in which also the artificial ])ropagation of loli.-ter.- was carried on. 'idiis eslabli.-h- ment was titted up by ^Ii'. Xi(dsL-n with all moilern inipio\-emeiits and nothing was h'ft undone to secure succi->s. ,Man\" ilitficulties were encountered, and many ob-tides overcome. The following figures show the nundjer of cod ova hatched at Dildo and planted in the waters of Trinity Bay, during the four years in which the hatchery has been in opei-ation : — Years. No. ol'coillisli liatclieil. 1890 ]7,000,UU() 1891 39,550,000 1892 105,254,000 1893 201,-135,000 Total j.lauted . . 423,439,000 The following figures show the nnnd)er of lobsters hatched in the same establishment during five years : — Years. Lobster o\'a liatcliud. 1889 . . • . . . 4,039,000 1890 15,070,800 1891 10,274,200 1892 2.500,000 1893 h095,00a Total .... 32,889,000 ■[•]]]■: FISIIKKIKS. 1()5" rKOATl.\'<; I\< I'BATOItS. It is, lio\vc\rr, ill liatcliiii^- lolisttTs liy lucaiis of Hnatiiiy incu- bator.-', wiiii'li were iiivfiiti'<l liy ]\lr. Xril.-cn, tliat tlic <;i-L'atC'.-t s>uci'C's.s has lifcu acliievcil. ''Jliis wdinlfi-riil imciitidii., w liirli is ^iiu])k-, iiii-x])i'iisivc', ami easily wni-kcil, lias |ilacf(l Xewf'uinu!- laiid far alicail <>[ all oIIkt rmiiitrics in the artiticial ]iropagatii>n of tlii'sc \alualiK' cruslaceaiis wliicli an' cv crywiu-n- l)C'C()niing scarcer, year after year, and in some lnUster-produring countries are tlireateiied wirli t-xtinctimi. Fnr fmir years Xeilsen's floating inculiutor> liave lieeii workeil under the Fisheries ' 'oniniis^idii, in nearly all the large bays nf the island. The l()!h>\ving lalde shows the i-esults : — Years. Xo. of lol)sters liati-lieil and plautei,], 18!J0 390,934,000 1991 541,19.j,000 189:i 427,28:),00O 1883 517,303,000 Total . . 1,886,767,000 S.VVINfi OF THK I.OBSTKK OVA. It is to he oh.-erved that this enoi'iiioiTs nuinlier of hih.-ters ■\vere hatehed from ova collected at the varions lofister factoiies where they M'onld otherwise have hcen (h'stroyed. The precious life-germs are saveil, placed in the incubators, brought to life, and after a time liberated in the waters. The invention is of immense value not only to Xewfonndland but to every country vliere lobsters are found. To this colony it will be wrnih many millions of dollars. EESLLTS. Time is re([nired to thoroughly test and deleimine the value of cod and lobster jifoiwigation, as the young cod re<[uiies three or four years to come to maturity ; and the lobster from five to seven years. It may lie mentioneil, howeverj that in Trinity Bay large shoals of small codfish and fry have been seen bv the fish- ermen in ])laces where they were never seen before and in siich abundance that they must be the prf)duce pf the hatchery. "166 THE FISHERIES. Similarly, vast mimlicrs of small lobsters, Irnm \\\i) to fiw inches in length, ]ia\e ln-i-n i)l)serve(l in the iieighliDiirliooil of the hatching incul)at()rs, ;up1 evidently the results of tlieir ojiera- tions. These are hupcful signs in regard to tlie ultimate success of these important e.\[ieriments. ClTllK OF HKKKIXGS. It may l)e nienlidueil ihat the C-ommissidn (h'Mileil much at- tention to the imjirovcment nf the cure of heiriugs, as the article sent to foreign mai'kels had deteriorated in i|ualily and in many cases ceases to bring I'emunerative prices. Cuih'r ^Mr. Neilsen's supervision, a few hundred barrels Avere cuicd and packed ac- cording to his own method, and then shijiped l)otli td European and American markets. In every instance they brought \'ery satisfactory prices, gieatly in advance of tliosc foijueily obtained, thus demonstrating what rare and skill can do in culiancing the value of this industi-y. He also erected a smoke-house in Pla- centia Bay, and turned out kippered, bloaters, and snu^ked herrings of the tint'>1 (juality which liroughl excidh'nt jinces. The impnlse thus gi\-eu to tlie jierring industi-y will gi-eatly enhance its value. THK rUEKZIXG BARKEL. One other impoi-taut imjn-ovement introduiHMl liy Mi'. Neil.sen may be mentioned. (^)uite recently he exhibited a freezing bar- rel to a number (if our ti-lietmen and "planters'" in St. John's,. Harbour Grace and ('aibouear, designed for tlie freezing ami preservation of bait in tlic ]iro.secution of the cod lisliery. One of the greatest ditliiulties ihr fisherman has to cncnunter is the ■\\ant of Ijait. At limes it is jilentiful, and at other times the bait fishe.s, such as herrings, caplin and stpiids, disappear and the tisherman is idle a-liore from tlie want of bail. The codfi.sh are plentiful in the wati'r,-. lait there is no bait. It often happi.'ns that a third of tin; lishing season is lost in tliis way. If then when bait are plentiful they could be frozen and preserved for times of scarcity, it is (•\idcnt lliat the .season's catch would le greatly increa.sed. Tlie IVce/iug barrel accomplishes this object THE FISHEPJES. 167 ■luo.st etFectually. It is ho siuipK; tliat any iislicnnaii, liaviiig seen it in operation, can easily tit u]) one for liis own use. All that is needed is an ovdinai-y Ueriin.g or })ovk liai-rei, some ice clioppecl small and coarst' salt. Four -wooilcn flanges an- plaeed insidi' the barrel, in an oliliqne direction, so as to nii.x and rotate the articles to he frozen witli the ice and salt, when the barrel is jiut in mo- tion. Tlie ban-el is half filled with alternate layers of ice and salt, the pro]ioi-tions being three parts of ice to one of salt. Theji the other half of the Ijarrel is tilled "with fresh herrings or any other bait tlshcs ; the head is fastened tightly and the barrel is placed on its side and rolled back and forward,, at a certain S2ieed, for aljont iifteen nunutes. When the he;id is removed the tisli are found to be frozen as hard as a block of wood. They are then placeil in sawdust or dry mould and can be preserved for a month or longei-, and used when reipiired. The fisherman need never be without bait and the cost is trilling. The inven- tion is a most valuable one, and will, when generally used, greatly increase the annual catch of codhsh. Those who wit- nessed it in o])eration were much grattiicd and pronounced it a complete success. Of course this liari'el can lie used for freez- ing any animal substance, such as meals, poulty, game, etc. On an enlarged scale it could be apjdied to the preservation of ireslx fish for use or exi)ortation. REFRIGERATORS. In addition to the freezing liarrel, MV. Xielsen, last year, erected at Burin and Pres(|ue two refrigerating houses for freez- ing bait on a large scale, and preserving it in this condition for the use of the fishermen. In the freezing chamber twenty-four degrees of frost are obtained, which is sufiicient for freezing any kind of bait. Complete success was reached, the "bait being i'rozen as hard almost as rock, and can be kept for any length of time. These are intended as model refrigerating houses, which capitalists engaged in the fisheries may re-proditce all round the coast and at each of the large fishing centres. With these and the freezing 1 larrel, when both are brought into general use, the 1G8 THE FISIIEKIES. poorest fisherman need neA^er be without bait. Herein '^^•e hays' another illustration of what science can do for the improvement of the fisheries. When, in addition to these inventions, we take into account the possible developments of pisciculture Ave see that ac^uaculture may yet become only second to agriculture in increasing the supplies of human food. Since the foregoing was Avritten regarding the hatching of cod- fish, the following appeared, under date June 19th, 1894, in the daily newspapers of St. John's, and greatly strengthens the hope of a successful issue in this new departure : — ♦'MII.I.IONS OF CODFISH— GKEAT SUCCESS OF COD HATCHING AT DILDO. " The grand experiment of re-stocking the Avaters of Trinity Bay by the artificial propagation of codfish, Avhich has been going on for four years, has resulted in a magnificent success. All doubts and fears are at length dissii:iated, and cavillers may noAA' hide their diminished heads. The ncAvs from Dildo is of the most gratifying description. Codfish, one, two and three years old, are in immense numbers ; and older fish are visible among them. Yesterday morning the Avater Avas A^ery calm, and the fishermen could see [them at the bottom in a solid, thick mass all around and outside the island. The oldest fishermen declare tliey never, in all their lives, saAV so nuich fish in the bay. One man, named John Pretty, had his cod-trap at Dildo . Island. He overhauls]^it three times a day, and brings in a skiff- load every ^time, in addition to AA'liat the hatchery takes from him of spaAvning fish. He says he could haul it every hour and have just as much fish in it every time. Mr. Nielsen has been only tAVO days at Avork and already he has four hundred and fifty fine spaAvning fish in the pond, Avith every prospect of soon gett- ing enough fish to fill every available space in the hatchery Avith ova. It may^be imagined Avith Avhat delight he finds his toils and anxieties so nobly reAvarded. What has been done in Trinity Bay can be done in^^CA'ery bay in the island. The depleted Avatcrs can be restored to their former abundance, and, as in the "good TIFK FISHEUIE.S. 169' old times," the tislu-nai'ii will In- able to load theii' lioats within sight of their own dooi>. Ihe long, every liay will have one or two cod hatcherie.s in operation. Lobster hatching is e(|ually successful. The freezing barrel, which Mr. Nielsen lately ex- hibited, if generally introduced, will be worth millions to the country. No fisherman need ever be without bait." Later accounts ,sa\' the hshernien of the place are delighted ■with the success, and declare they can catch as much fish as they like. Mr. Nielsen has 2,000 spawners in his pond and can fill every available space in the hatchery ■with ova. He hojjes tO' plant three hundred millions this year. CHAPTER VIII. INTERNATIONAL TREATIES. THE TRENCH SHOKE (QUESTION. It does not full williin llic' scope oC a Handbook to discuss at ixny great length the " ne\'er-ending, still beginning" " French Shore Qnestion."' Only a few of the salient points connected with it can Ije referred to viM'y brietly. It has been so long and so often debated that the subject is worn thread-bare. TREATY RIGHTS OF THE FRENCH. Among Great Britain's forty (polonies the position of Xew- foundland is in one respect uniipie. The sovereignty of the •entire teriitory belongs exclusively to Britain ; Init the French, since the year 1713, have had the right of fishing along more than half the entire shores of the island, and of using that por- tion of the coasts for such pur[)Oscs as may be necessary in the prosecntion of their fishery. In addition to this important privilege, the French have hail ceded to theui possession of the two small islands of St. Pierre and ^liipielon, at the entrance of Fortune Bay, " as a shelter for their fishermen," the only condi- tion attached to the possession of them being that no fortifications- should be erected, and only such buildings as are necessary iu carrying on the fishery. The line of coast to which these treaty lights apply extends froui Cape Ray, at the soutli-A\'estern ex- tremity of the island, around the western, northern and north- eastern shores, as far south as Cape St. John, being fully half the entire coast of the island, and that by far the most fertile and valuable portion. The French have no right to occupy i)er- manently or settle any portion (if this shore, or to erect any buildings except such huts and scafiblds as may be necessary for curing and drying their fish. Their fishermen are not allowed to M'inter in the island. INTERXATTOXAL TREATIES. 171 TREATIES NOW ANTIQUATED. At the time wlieu the French ol'tained tliese treaty priviU-ges,. the population of the whole island ^vas very small, and but few British subjects had settled on this portion of the- coast. It was also believed then that this section of the country was worthless, as far as its soil was concerned, and that it contained nothing valualile. These notions jiroved to be unfounded. As years rolled on it was found that this half of the island, with a co;i>l- line of 790 miles, contained large tracts of fertile land, valuable forests, coal beds and rich mineral deposits. The climate (.if the western coast is also superior to that of the eastern and southern, being free from fogs and the influence of the Arctic Current, so that it is much more favourable for colonization. Circximstances have entirely altered since these ancient treaties were made, and they are no longer applicalile to the condition of the colony. Their abrogation or moditicition is ui'gently needed. TREATY OF UTRECHT. These concessions were first made to tlie French by the Treaty of Utrecht, in the year 1713. It stipulated that " The Island of Newfoundland, Avith the adjacent islands, shordd lielong of right wholly to Great Britain ;" that it shall be allowed to the subjects of France "to catcli fish and dry them on land on that part only of the coast" defined in the treaty; and that "it shall not be lawful for the subjects of France to fortify any jilace in tlie said island of Xewfoundland, or to erect any Ituildings there l)esides stages made of boards, and huts necessary and usual for drying of fish, 01' to resort to the saitl island beyon<l the time necessary for fisliing and drying of fish." TREATY OF 1703. The next treaty dealing witli this matter was that of Paris,. 1763. It renewed and confirmed the previous treaty, and added the following article : — "The King of Great Britain cedes the islands of St. Pierre and ]\Ii(pielon, in full right to His Most Christian Majesty, to sor\e as a shelter to Fiench fishermen ; and His Most Christian ^lajesty engages not to fortify the saitl 172 INTERXATIOXAL TKEATIES. islands, to erect no buildings iqiun tlieni liut merely for tlie con- Tenience of the fisliery, and to keep upon tlieni a guard of fifty men only for the police." These conditions have l)een entirely disregarded l)y the French who have made St. Pierre a Colony and erected buildings of all kinds. TREATY OF VERSAILLES. The Treaty of Versailles, 1783, confirnieil the jn'evious treaties. Further : a Declaration was attachetl to this treaty in which His Britannic Majesty "in order that the tisliermen of the two na- tions might not give cause for daily (piarrels" engaged to "take the most positive measures for preventing his subjects from interrupting in any manner, by their competition, the fisher} of the French during the temporary exercise of it which is granted to them, upon the coast of the island of Newfoundland ; but he will for this purpose cause the fixed settlements which shall be formed there to be removed." The Treaty of Paris, 1815, confirmed the previous arrange- ments, and no modification or alteration lias since been made." INJURIES CAUSED RY TREATIES. The line of coast to which these treaties apply extends, as already stated, from Cape Ray, at tlie soutli-western extremity of the island, aixjund the western, nortliern and north-eastern shores to Cape St. John. This is, in regard to its soil, climate and forest and mineral wealth, incomparably su]:)erior to tlie rest of the island. Had it not been by these treaties practically locked up, it would long since have been colonized, and the western coast Avould have been occupied by a fishing, farming, lumbering and mining population, and thriving towns and vill- ages would have sprung uji along its entire extent. To the ■colony these unfortunate concessions have been most injurious and have retarded its progi-ess more than all other causes put together. The practical effect has been to exclude the i-)eople from the fairest lialf of their OAvn territory ; to jirevent the in- vestment there of capital in industrial enterjirises ; so that, for the most jiart, it has remained in the condition of a primeval IXTEllNATIOXAL TREATIES. 173 wilderness, and the population have been cooped up in the more barren and least desirable half of the island. Of all their " his- toric misfortunes" this has been incomparably the greatest. Of all grievances of whicli the people have had reason to complain, this is the one which most loudly calls for redress. EXCLUSIVE OF CONCURRENT RIGHTS. Had tlie just and fair interpretation of the language of those treaties been insisted on and carried into practical effect from the outset by the Imperial Government, and had the unreasonable demands of the French, which were unwarranted by the terms ■of these docimients, l)een promptly and steadily repudiated, the colony would not liave been called upon to endi;re such hard- ships and losses, although the legitimate treaty-rights of the French would still have been felt as an embarrassment and a hindrance in the development of the natural resources of the island. It is true that the French have no territorial rights, and are prohibited from forming any fixed settlements ; it is ■also true that their right of fishing along the line of coast is not exclusive but concurrent, and that their claim to an exclusive fishery has never been recognized by England, and has been and continues to be most emphatically repudiated by the colony itself. Still the French have so pertinaciously and unweariedly endeavoured to exercise exclusive fishing rights, and have sho^\^l such jealousy regarding them, that they have succeeded in prac- tically preventing Xewfoundland fishermen from exercising the concurrent right \\-hich the treaties warrant, and which they justly claim, by fishing within the treaty bounds. Here it is that England has failed in her duty to her colonial offshoot. Her statesmen have always recognized this concurrent right of fishing and utterly refused to admit of an exclusive right on the part of the French ; yet, dreading the results of quarrels arising between the fi.shermen of the two nations when prosecuting their calling in the same waters, they have discountenanced all at- tempts at fishing on the part of Newfoundland fishermen along Ihat portion of the shore on which the French have treaty rights. 174 INTEEXATIOXAL TREATIES. The consequence has been that the concurrent riglit fell into' abeyance, and for fisliing purposes that portion of the coast was practically closed against the 2>eople to \\hom the soil of the island belonged. EXTRAVAGANT CI.AIM8. This was not all. The French ]iot only claimed and tried to- enforce an exclusive right to the fishery, but they 2:)referred more extravagant claims to pievent tlie inliabitants of Xewfonndland from occupying the land witliin tlie limits defined liy the trea- ties, whether for agi'icultural, mining or other purposes, thns virtually exercising sovereignty over half the island. It is true they did not jDretend to occupy the land themselves, except for fishery purposes ; but they pursueil only too successfully the " dog in the manger" jJolicy, of jireventing anyone else from doing so. They preferred this claim on the ground that the occu})ation of the land by tlie people of the island would be an infringement of their fishery privileges. Here again the Imjje- rial authorities inflicted a cruel wrong upon the colony by tem- porizing with these unfounded claims, and refusing for a long time to permit the local government to issue land grants in the disputed district, while at the same time they repudiated the French claims and declared the sovereignty of the territory to be vested solely in England. BRITISH SKTTLERS INCREASE. Meantime, however, in spite of all dilhcultius and discourage- ments a numerous population settled on this shore. Tliey now number nearly 12,000 people. Their condition was for a long period very miserable. They were in the position of squatters, having no title to their property ; were living without the guardianship of law ; hail no roads, scliools, magistrates to pun- ish crimes, or any of the ordinary appliances of civilization^ They became increasingly a source of anxiety to the local govern- ment. At length, in 1881, the representations and remonstrances of the local legislature were listened to ; the local government Avas emj^owered to make grants of land ; but these were made IXTEKXATIOXAL TREATIE.S. 175 subject to the treaty rights of the Freiu'li ; magistrates were ap- pointed ; custom liouses erected, and provision made ibr the representation of tlie residents, \vlio were to send two memljers to the Ljcal parliament. This was a consideraljle step in advance. Law and order were e.-^tahlished ; tlie reijiou became an integral part of Newfoundhind ; and the Government was empowered to exercise territorial jurisdiction over tlie whole, subject of course to existing treaty riglits. The boon should liave been giauled fifty years before. PERILS OF THK SITIATIOX. The vexed question, however, of concurrent or exclusive fishing rights remains, and is as far as over from settlement. The French endeavour to enforce their claims to an exclusive fishery as j^^-'i'ti- naciously as ever ; and the peace of the two nations is constantly in i^eril in consequence of these conilicting views regarding the 2)ro visions of the treaties. England, and her subjects in the Colony, maintain that they have a concurrent right to these fisheries, provided they do not " interrupt" the operations of the French fishermen. The Crown lawyers of England have de- clared that there is nothing in the treaties to prevent British subjects from taking fish at any places not actually occupied liy French fishermen, and provided they do not disturb Frenchmen in tlieir bona fide fishing operaticms. VIEAVS OF IJKITISH STATES3IEN. The ablest British statesmen of former times, sucli as Lord Palmerston in his famous despatch of July lOtli, 1838, have re- fused to acknowledge that the treaties convej-ed any exclusive right to the French, and declared that had such been the inten- tion terms far more definite and exact would ha-\e lieen used. In 1886 the French Govej'nment once more put forward their claims to exclusive rights, threatening to coniiscatc tlie gear of any who were foun<l fishing on that part of the coast ; to disre- gard the jurisdiction of local magistrates ; to prevent the working of mines, and to protect Frencli fishermen in taking salmon and lobsters as well as cod. To these preposterous claims and threats 1V6 INTERNATIONAL TREATIES. Lord RoseLei'v, wlio was then Foreign Minister, replied in firm .-.and dignified terms. The following is an extract from his xlespatch : " I have no desire to re-open the discussion on the numerous points in dispute ; but I cannot rel'rain from de- precating more particularly the claim put forward by your government to ignore, during the fisliin^ season the territorial jurisdiction fiowing from the sovereign rights of the British Crown over the whole of the Island of Newfoundland, expressly conferred by the terms of the 13th article of the Treaty of Utrecht ; nor can I pass in silence the reiterated assertion, in your note, of an exclusive right of fishing on the part of the coast ,on which the French treaty rights exist. There can be no doubt that the inhabitants must not ' interrupt by their competition' the French fishermen ; but Her Majesty's Government can hardly believe that the French Government could intend to fipply to them the term ' foreigner ;' or to question the right of the colonists to procure the means of subsistence by fishing on their own coast, so long as they do not interfere wdth the Treaty Rights of the French fishermen. Such a claim has no precedent in history, and would be not only repugnant to reason, but op- posed to the jiractice of years, and to the actual terms of the Declaration of Versailles, which ]3rovide that the old methods of fishing 'shall not be deviated from by either party,' showing conclusively that the French right to the fishery is not an exclusive one." THE LOBSTER DISPUTE. In 1889 a new and very serious complication arose in connec- tion with the French-shore question, which "made confusion worse confounded." On the treaty shore the British residents had several years before commenced the new industry of canning lobsters. It prospered so well that by 1889 some forty lobster factories had l)een erected on the shore. Tlien it suddenly oc- .curred to the French that they had a right to share in this indus- try, and tliey erected a small number of factories. Their views .expanded rajiidly, and speedily they preferred an exclusive claim INTERNATIONAL TKEATIES. 177 -to the lobster tisliery and began to use active measures for tlie removal of British lobster factories, claiming that they were an interference with their treaty rights and that they required the places occupied liy them for their own uses. This preposterous claim, so entirely unwarranted by the letter or spirit of the treaties, proved to be the "last straw" in the case of tlie patient, long-suffering Newfoundlanders. Public feeling was aroused and soon reached fever heat. Mass meetings were held in the capital and elsewhere, and delegates were despatched in 1890 to ■Canada and England to apj)eal to the people of both countries for sympathy and assistance in their struggle to get rid of these French claims. Tlie agitation was not confined to the lobster ■ipiestion. Tlie Avhole bearing of these antiquated treaties, which for a century and a-half had been an incubus on the colony, re- tarding it? progress, was now discussed in the light of recent events. Tlie grievances of years had now become intolerable ; and it is not wonderful to find that a deeper conviction than ever before took hold of the minds of the people that these French rights in NeAvfoundland were incompatiljle with the prosperity and progress of the colony and that they must be terminated, not by a violation of the treaties, but by an equitable purchase or compensation, or exchange of territory, as might be agreed on. COLONISTS APPEAL TO ENGLAND. To the Parliament and people of England the colonists ap- pealed for justice. England had originally made these treaties and she alone could solve the difficidties. This coast had really become of little or no value to the French. Their fishery had declined till now only seven or eight fishing vessels, manned by three or four hundred iiicii, visited tlie coast annually. For the sake of this handful of fishermen this half of the island, licli in .a variety of resources — agricultural, luml)ering and mining- must be locked up. While useless to the French, these resources were invaluable to the people of the colony. This was such a manifest grievance to the colonists, and such a preposterous ab- surdity in an economical point of view, that the appeals of the ilelegates both in Canada and Enylaud met with a warm svm- 178 IXTERXATIONAL TREATIES. pathetic response, and tlie press ol liotli countries sustained tlieir claims. It seemed but simisle justice that the coh^nists slioukl be masters in their own territory and live to develope its resources. LOBSTERS NOT I>X'LUDEI> IN TREATIES. But the French had to lie reckoned with and they refused tc yiehl an inch on the lobster ([uestion. In Aain did the British diplomatists remonstrate and point out tliat Avhen the treaties were made and gave the French the liberty ot" " taking and dry- ing tish," lobster canning was unknown, and lobsters could not have been included ; that only cod-fisliing could have been in view when " taking and drying tish " was specified, lobsters not being fish, and cainiing a very different process frour "drying ;" that lobster factories are not the "temporary huts and stages" allowed in the treaties, biit permanent buildings which the Frencli wore forbidden to erect. The French still obstinately clung to their claim ; and probalily wearied with their perti- nacity, the British Government offered to sul)mit tlie lobster question to arbitration. This temporizing jjolic}' 2>avcd the way for tJie host of troubles which speedily followed. MODUS TIVENDI. The Frencli accepted arbitration ; and without suljuiitting the matter to the local legislatuie, the British Government arranged Avith the French a modus vivendi pending the results of the arbi- tration. As soon as this was made known popular indignation burst forth afresh. The Legislature in the Session which opened March 6th, 1890, unanimously adojjted resolutions condemning the inodiis vivendi; and mass meetings of the jjeople followed denouncing it in the strongest terms. It was too late, however, the Britisli Government having been committed to the arrange- ment ; so that the ovodits virandi went into 02)eration and tlie naval officers engaged in the protection of the fisheries received instructions to enforce it. MODUS VIVENDI 015JECTI0NABLE. The most objectionable feature in this ?/;o(?«.s rinndi was that it gave formal permission to the French to erect loli>ter iactories IXTEKNATIOXAI. TKKATIKS. 1,0 on certain conditions, tliu.s apparently iuliuilting ilicir claims, and casting a donbt on the cxdiuivr rights of tln^ cuhmists to all the lobsters on the French shore, as to which no donht -whatever existed in the minds of British statesmen and lawyers. This was done, moreovei-, withont the knowledge or consent of the .colonists, and in opjiosition to the jjosition taken previously by the British Government. It had the appearance of conceding to the French certain territorial rights which they never enjoyed before, as lobster factories were permanent establishments. The modm allowed all lobster factories in existence on July 1st, 1889, both French and British, to continue, pending an arbitra- tion, ]jut prohibited all new erections, unless by joint consent of the eommandeis of British and French naval stations. STRANGE DISCOVERY. The unpalatable arrangement, however, had to be enforced by the naval officers o\\ the station. Ere loiig a strange and start- ling discovery was made, namely, that the Act of Parliament .enalding British Governments to enforce these treaties, by orders issued to naval olricers, had expired by virtue of one of its own ])rovisions in the year 1834, and ha<l never been renewed ; so that from that time till the present no legal authority had existed for the enforcement of Her Majesty's instructions to na\al com- niamlers upon the coast of Newfoundland. MR. JAMES BAIRD VERSUS SIR BAEUWIX ^VAI^KER. It was an unjdea-^ant surprise to the British (government to be reminded of this fact, and told that their illegal enforcements had been going on for 56 years. But to make such a discovery, which no one at first credited or even noticed when announced, ^\•as one thing ; and to work it out practi(!ally for the benefit of the colony, was (pite another thing. ^Ir. James Bainl, a mer- chant of St. John's, who was embued with a large amount of public spirit, resolved to bring the matter to a practical issue. One of his lobster factories on the French shore had been seized, as he believed, illegally, irnder the provisions of the inodasvivendi, and operations were ordered to be discontirnied. Mr. Baiul at 180 IXTEKXATIOXAL TREATIES. once took an action against tlic British naval otticer — Sir Baldwin Walker — who issued the order, estimating his damages at ^5,000^ The case was argued at great length and with much legal acumen before the Supreme Court of Xewfoundland, with the result that ■judgment was given in favour of Mr. Baird. The officer had no legal authority to confiscate the factory. COERCION BILL, IN THE HOUSE OF LOKDS. The British Clovernment then, for the hrst time, realized that they had no legal authority for the orders issued to the naval commanders for the enforcement of these treaties. The treaties, however, were binding, and nothing remained but to ask Par- liament for power to enforce them. Accordingly a Bill was' introduced into the House of Lords for this piirpose. It was a re-enactment of the provisions of an old Act 5, Geo. TV., with a new applicati<jn. DELEGATION TO PARLIAMENT. As soon as its nature and scojje were made kno\\'u popular' feeling was aroused afresh in tlie Colony. The Legislature of Newfoundland at once despatched a joint delegation composed of members of both Chambers, to present a remonstrance to the British Parliament ^\■ith the view of arresting an obnoxious coercive measure which was regarded as an interference with the rights and liberties of the peojjle of the Colony. The names of these delegates deserve to be placed on record as they discharged their duties ably and fought the battle of their country bravely. The following is a list of these deputies :— From the Legislative Council — Hon. A. "VV. Harvey and Hon. M. Monroe ; From the House of Assembly — Sir William Y. White way, Premier ; Hon. Sjieaker Emerson, and Mr. A. B. Morine, Leader of the Opposition. DELEGATES AT THE BAR OF THE LORDS. The delegation claimed to be heard at the Bar of the House of Lords, and this rare privilege was granted. Then occurred that memorable historic scene when the representatives of England's oldest Colony stood before the most noble and august assembly iNTEKXATioxAL ti;p:aties. 181 in the world, ami in a document marked liy liigli a1>ility, mo- deration and wisdom, set forth the long array of their country's wrongs and grievances, in words Avhich made a deeji inqiression on that great assemblage. The House of Lords was crowded to an extent rarely witnessed before. The appeal of the delegates was listened to with deep sympathetic interest ; and generous applause was given to it by .speakers of both political parties. The pre.ss of England joined in approval of the dignified and judicious position assumed by the delegation. They wisely offered, on behalf of the Legislature by whom they had been accredited, to pass the necessary enactments to enable England to fulfil her treaty obligations. The obnoxious measure before the House was then withdrawn, arrangements were made for ar- riving at an agreement between the British Government and the delegates as to the nature of the enactment which the Colonial Legislature would be asked to sanction for the enforcement of the treaties. In regard to what followed it is only necessary to say that misunderstandings arose. A comjjlete and satisfactory enactment has not yet been passed by the local legislature ; but such an understanding has been reached as has removed manj- difficulties out of the way, and leaves little doubt that a measure will ere long receive the sanction of the Imperial authorities and the local legislature, -which will secure the objects in view. Meantime, the modus vivendi has been continued, by local enact- ment, till the close of 1895. This will give time for further negotiations. HARDSHIPS OF TBEATIES. It is very clear from the foregoing narrative of events, that this " French Shore Question" is about as far as ever from a solution. What the people of XcMfoundland want is to be made masters in their own territory, and to get rid of these French claims. They have no wish to disturb the French in their possession of St. Pierre and Micjuelon, or to interfere with their fishery on the Banks for which these i.«lands furnish a basis. But they keenly feel the injustice of slnitting up half of an island larger than 1S2 IXTEIIXATIOXAL TKEA'I'IKS. Ii'L-land in onk'i- lliat -ix or seven small French tisliing vessels may use it for drying tlieir tish for three months in the year. THK FKKXCH KKFU8K COMPKOMISES. It is necessary, however, to look existing facts in the face. France has again ami again declared, througli the mouth of her foremost statesmen, that she will not accejjt a money compen- sation or even a territorial exchange for lier treaty lights in Xewfoundland. They say no Frencli Govennnent dare propose any such arrangement in face of the i)opular indignation it ■would kindle. The national sentiment will not allow them to listen to such a proposal as giving u[) the last relic of French Empire in the Xew AVurld. The maintenance of the French navy is somehow immovaldy associated in the Gallic mind with the nursery for her seamen which France holds in these waters. It may lie too that her statesmen look ujjon these treaty rights as iift'ording them a fine vantage ground in dealing with England on the Egyptian fj^uestion, or other disputed sulijects. DIFFICULTIES OF SETTLEMENT. Whatever may be the explanation, France will not relax her hold on Newfoundland ; and further, except by going to war, which no one desires and all parties shrink from, England has no power to compel her. The pnblished correspondence between the two Governments shows that English statesmen have spared no efforts to Ijring aliout a settlement of this old dispute favour- able to the colony ; but ha\e laboui'ed in vain. France is im- practicable, and will concede nothing. Both England and the colonists are willing to submit the whole (piestions connected with the treaties to arbitration ; but France will accept arljitra- tion only on the lobster claim. This does not indicate that she has full confidence in the justice of her demands on other points, or in her own interpretation of the treaties. 'W'hli all his diplo- matic skill, Lord Salisbin-v has failed to bring her to reason. He lias been met at all points by a wm pos-'^iiwus. CO-OPEKATION WITH ENGL AND. What is the wisest policy for Xewfoundlami to adopt in the present crisis in her affairs ? The colonist's have amjily vindi- INTERNATIONAL TKEATIES. 1S3 .L'atctl tlicir riglils as t'lveiiu'ii liy iiiakiiiL;' kuoun tlicii' grit-vauces ami wi-DiiL^s, ami tlii-v liavi' won the synqiatliy of England ami the iT'spcct of her leading statesmen of both injlitieal j'lU'ties. 'They may vest assured, tlierefore, that as soon a- opportunity presents itsidf theii- wi-ongs will he righteih But England ean- mjt aeeoni])lish ini])nssil)ilities. She cannot disreganl her treaty .obligations, and sjie has no jiower to (■onipe] France to forego her treaty rights. England is in ]ion(.iin- 1)ound to t-nlorce observance in Xewi'onndland of her treaty engagements, whatever they may l)e. The despatch received from Lord Ripon, Seci'etary of State for the Colonies, in March last, indicates an earnest desire to .adopt conciliatory measures, and to make such conces.sioUH in regard to the provisions of an Act to be submitted to the local Legislature, as will smooth the way i'or it.s acce])tanee. Under such circumstances, it will be evident to most thinking men tliat the duty and interest of the colony lie in co-operation with the Imperial authorities, lioth in sccui-ing a 2)roper nu^asure for the .enfoi'cement of the treaties and also in the settlement of the whole (.juestiou in the future. Tlie jiresent time calls for mode- I'ation, .self-conti'ol, and the exercise of that gooil sense which will look facts in the face calndy, and not indulge in ]iy.-;terical .demands for the immediate alirogation of all Frencli rights, re- ifusing ever\ coni))romise which falls short of this. Xothing can be gained by shrieking for such extreme measures as tearing u[> the treatie'?, and the immeiliate withdrawal of the French. SKLF-EESTKAINT AND PATIKNCK. Whatever may have been the conduct of the Imperial Mother towards the lirst-born of her colonies, in tiie rough da\'s of the past, she has now notlung but the kindest intentions and the most sincere good will. She has every desire to at(_)ne for the harshnesses and negligence of the past, and to help us in our hour of need. We may learn a lesson from the conduct of Ca- nada in dealing with the Beliring Sea trouble. She trusted the Imperial Authorities and coulially co-o]ierated with tlieni, in a .spirit of " sweet reasonableness ;" and tlie result has liecu au 184 IXTEKXATIOXAL TliEATIES. arbitration wliicli secures for Canada all that could l)e fairly ex- pecteil. If the colonists are patient and wise, while firmly hold- ing on to their rights, the day may not be distant when all pre- sent difficulties may admit of an easy solution. >KAV KAII.WAY AS A FACTOK. To the present writer it seems that the new line of railway is- destined to be an important factor in the settlement of the French Shore Question. Once those solitudes are people<l by a busy thriving po}>ulation — farming, mining, lumbering, manu- facturing, — (ince the smoke of homesteads fills the air anil the whistle of the locomotive is heard amid the " forests primeval," our French iishing friends will find that there is no room for them ; and the last pale ghosts of the old treaties will vanish for' ever. It may l)e found that the great innovator — the raihvay — ^is destined to make Newfoundlanders masters in their oavu house. Before chjsing this chapter it may be well to allude t(j another serious evil inflicted on the colony by the concessions already described. St. Pierre, which at the nearest point is but fifteen miles from the Newfoundland shores, has long been a smuggling centre, very large quantities of wine, brandy, rum, tobacco, tea, sugar, drapery and other goods, are every year smuggled into- the southern and Avestern portion of the island. The reA-enue is is thus defrauded ; the honest traders are jdaced at a disad^'an- tage ; and the worst of all, the jseople are demoralized. So many small vessels are constantly running to St. Pierre, carrying bait for the French Bankers, and bringing back contraband goods,, that it is found to be cpiite impossible to preA'ent smiiggling on a large scale. The evil might be checked by a British Consul re- silient at St. Pierre ; but though asked for, again and again, the Fi-ench steadily refuse to jjermit a consul to exercise his func- tions on their island. Doubtless the French traders find it profit- able to supply the smugglers, and do not Avant to be disturbed. This gi'ievance has long been felt, but no redress has ever been attempted. Taking into account the Avholc effects of these trea- INTERN ATIOXAL TliEATIE.S. 1S5' ties, it is not woikKtIu] lluit llie colonists sliould liii\(/ at times discovered impatience, and always clieiislied an irritaljU' discon- tent with tlieir hard lot. THE WESTMINSTKK REVIEW ON THE SITUATION. Snbjoined are a few extracts from an able article in tlie TP'est- minster Review for April, 1892. The wiiter, Mr. E. R. Spearman, is thoroughly in syniimtliy with Newfoundlanders in their hard struggles : — ^" It behoves Englishmen to make themselves masters of the whole story of tlie Newfoundland difficulty, and to be thus prejjared to deal with it intelligently whenever the crisis comes. To begin with, it must be understood by Englishmen that the great bulk of Frenchmen do not care two straws about Newloundland itself, but do care a great deal about other sore subjects of controversy with England's empire elsewhere, and so seize on any available grievance like Newfoundland to manifest international ill-will whenever tlie Gallic cock desires to give the English lion a prod with 1 lis angry spurs." * * * "Though enough physical mists sTUTound Newfoundland, there is still no real reason why any political mists should envelope it, so far as Englishmen are concerned. Every verse in the great epic of Newfoundland should be fresh in every Englishman's brain, for it is that ejjic which marks his race's march to world-wide em- pire and glories unequalled in the record of mankind." ENGIiAND'S NEGLECT AND CRUELTY. "England is a cruel mother. Most of her colonial children have been born against her will, and she has often tried to strangle them, both before and after bii-th. Though thus be- gotton, they strangely enough have invariably regarded their parent with imcpicuchable love, seeking her favour with rich gifts and valuable seivices, only to be insulted and jilundered. Fostering care of her colonies has never been the rule of the greatest colonizing nation the world has ever seen. On the con- trary, the colonists have generally been such as have tied from England in bitterness of spirit, and the dominant policy of Eng- land has alwaj's been to treat these exiles as a herd of condennied 180 IXTKUXATIOXAL TIJEATIES. .-pirits, who must not lie allowed to esca|ie torture l)y shifting their ([uarters, liut In- harasseil without remorse. Hard as has Ijeeii the lueasure meted to all her eoluuies hy England, to none lias she been a more unnatural paivnt than to the tirst-born, the ■chihl of lier youthful maternity as a liree(ler of otlier common- Avealths from the liosom of her (jwn, and a ehihl, too, who lias paid a tribute for nearly foui- hundred years fai' exceeding 'the Avealtli of Ormu/ or (jf Ind,' — the liarve^t of the sea, more precious to our inland than the dianninds of (.iolconda or the gohl of Peru. TOILKKS OF THK SEA. " Xo English Homer has y,^.t arisen to tell the tale of Xew- foundland, shrouded in mystei-y and romance ; the daring invasion and \icissituiles of those exhaustless tisjieries ; the battle of life in that seething cauldi'on of the North Atlantic — - "the Western Ocean'' as the sailors say witli a shi\-ev and a shrug — where the swelling billows ne\-er rest, liut cross and ■criss-cross in I'oaring rivalries, anil the hurricane only slumbers to bring forth the worse dangers of the fog-bank and the iceberg. Eierce as have been during the four centuries the tight for the fisheries by European rivals, their 2>etty racial (quarrels sink into insignificance before the general struggle for the harvest. The Atlantic I'oar hides all minoi- ju'pings. The bi-eed of iisher-folk from tlu'se deep-sea voyagings 'onsist f)f the toughest specimens •of human endurance. All other dangers whieli lure men to venture everything for excitement, or for fortune, the torrid beat or Arctic cold, the battle against man or l)east, the desert or the jungle, all land adventurers are nothing conijiared to the <laring of the hourly existence of tlie heroic souls whose lives are cast U]Kin the Banks of Newfoundland. The tishermeu may seem Avild and reckless, rough auil illitei-ite, Init supreme danger and superlative sacrifice breed noble ([ualitios ; and beneath the rough exterioi of the lisheiman you ^vill never fail to find n iiudi, Ho cheap imitation of the genuine article. None but a man can Jace, for the second lime, the fi'own of the Atlantic — that exhi- IXTEltXATIOXAL TIJEATIES. 187 bitiou of mighty all-cousuiuiiig power, liesitli- tlu' sober reality of which all the ecstaciesof poets and of jiaintings are puny failures. NEWFOUNDrANI) THE >l'IISERY OF ENGLAND'S NAVY. "Among these heroic children of the sea England's sons have- always been foi'emost. AVe sliDuld exj^ect England to be espe- cially proud of such offspring, familiar witli their struggles, and ever heedful of theii- wellare, lending an ear to their claims or complaints before all other suitors. Strange to say it has always l)een the e.xact reverse. In the great fisheries, England, from her position and the nature of her peojde, has taken the leading part. Thi' fidii'rii-.s <if Xi'irfiiiinilhind hare h-in tin- (irujin of all, our iiwi^t chcritihni frtiiiDplix. From K<-vf<iiiiiiJliniil Ims lici-v imrsi'd the irhole of tliat iiuvy, mercantile or icarUlc, irliidi moljcs nn iiiii.'<- ters of the -swf.s. From Xevfoimdlawl has xjinimi tlu n-Jmlr iiisjii- ration whicJi h((x h'<l fh'- Eiitjlish empire fn I'uD'r thr (jhilir. " It was pre-eminently the New Found Land — the first gai-ner of English discovery. It was in 1497 that the Anglo- Venetian, John (Jabot, with his genuine English sons, '■ Saileit away, J^-oiii Bristol Bay " to find more gems for the concpieror of Bosworth Field to add to his diadem, .lolin Cabot's voyage was the fir.-t of many Bristol exjjeditions ; ami the "West Counti'v men came to consider the Banks of Newfoundland as almost their watery homestead. CAPABILITIES OF THE ISL.\NI>. "Bearing these facts in mind, one Avenild expect Englishmen to take a most lively interest in a possession next to Ireland in proximity, larger than Ireland in area, and far exceeding Ireland in potential jjrodnct. Besides the fisheries (which themselves must ever remain Tuiri vailed as a national inheritance, and were the most important gift furnished to Europe by tlie discovery of the New World) Newfoundland also possesses a pei'fect treasure- house of minerals, — almost all the metals, and coal and petro- lenm. In fact there is every reason to ex]iect that the fanu^ of Newfoundland as a mining field wduld be world-wide, were 188 INTERNATIONAL TREATIES. ;atteution given to develoiiing the resources of tlie island ; but everyone hitherto has considered tisliing as the object of their existence ; and England has so treated her colony as to prevent the growth of a pojiulation extensive enougli to attend to all in- dustries ojiened to man in such a favoured ^pot. At the jsresent crisis, one of the chief hardships suffered by the Newfoundland- ers is interference with any attempt at mining oijerations by the French patrols, who have in feet, if not in theory, the power foolishly conceded by England, of ]iractically nobbling all in- dustry for about a thousand miles of coast line. In fact the monstrosity of the French case, in this resjiect, would be ludi- •crous in its audacity were it not so exasperating." * * * ■=x- * * * NEWFOUNDLAND ALAVAY8 BKLONGED TO ENGLAND. ''Degenerate indeed must be the Englislnnen who read the record and fail to claim the absolute supremacy of English rights in Newfoundland in all particulars. For Ije it lemembered that this early possession has been fortifii'(l by uninterrupted occu- pancy " to make assurance doubly sure." Tlie island has been invaded by the French and others in war-time, but never con- qitered; and such invasions give no slired of title in time of peace. The French visitoi'S have been from the first (as all other foreign- ers, even from the start,) merely guests on the shores of New- foundland ; and if they V>ecome obnoxious, England has every right, moral and legal, to refuse them further hospitality." AKKANGEMENT OF 1885. " Tlie French have undoul)ted claims in Newfoundland ; but experience has shown that a continuance of the exercise of these ■claims is impracticable. Tliey should l)e Ijought out in the in- terests of peace." * * -x- * * * * "It is well to understaud tliat tlie Newfoundlanders have always been most patient and reasonable. Ignornant people liave often called the islanders otherwise, Ijecause such i)eople IXTERNATIOXAL TREATIES. 189 never reflect that the XewfouucUanders, being on the spot, have the best means of judging of the merits of tlie disjiute. Thus the Newfoundlanders have been abused by 'inspired' pens and high officials in England for refusing to accept the treaty of 1885, alleged to be so favourable to the island. The true reason for such a rejection Avas this : France had, from time immemorial, had more clever surveyors and negotiators tlian England in those parts. Thus her accomplished French surveyors made a plan vhicli looks delightful on paper to the uninitiated. The English settlers were surrendered parts of the disputed coast ; but, here a bit and there a bit was reserved absolutely to France. Now, these bits happened to include all the good harbours of the coast. All settlement and mining ventures would be impossi- ble. No wonder Newfoundlanders rose in wrath against such a sacrifice."' THE END OF THE MATTER. "Newfoundlanders must be absolutely masters in their own land, and for this hajtpy release they will doul)tless be both willing and able to pay a sufficient price. Way back to Edward VI., an Act of Parliament declared the Newfoundland fisheries an unlicensed i)rivilege of every Englishman. We practically allow the said fisheries to l)e to-day the unlicensed privilege of all mankind. But Newfoundland itself is our own, our eldest born. AVe should deserve to be wiped away from the list of honourable nations if we do not stand by the island in this hour of her distress." TREATY OF UTRECHT. Thirteenth clause of the Treaty of Utrecht (1713) jn-esents in clear and brief terms the whole matters in dispute, and those who wish to understand the French Shore fpiestion should never lose sight of it. This treaty was drawn up in English am.1 French and then translated into Latin, in which language it was signed, so that this version is official and authoritati\-e. Here is a correct translation of the 13th clause from the Latin text : — " The Island called Newfoundland, with the adjacent islands, shall from this time forward Ijelong wholly to Great Britain ; 190 IXTEUXATIOXAf, TREATIES. and to that end the town and fortress of Placentia, and whatever other places in the said island are in the possession of the French,- shall be yielded and given up ■within seven months from the ratifications of this treaty, or sooner if possible, by tlie Most Christian King, his heirs and snccessors, to those who have a commission from the Queen of Great Britain for that purpose. Xor shall the Most Christian King, his heirs or s;;ccessors, or jiny o'f their subjects, at any time hereafter lay claim to any right to- the said island and islands, or any part of it or tliem. Moreover it shall not be lawfid for tlic subjects of France to fortify any place in the said Island of Newfoundland, or to erect any build- ings there besides stages made of boards and huts necessary and usual for drying of fish, or to resort to the said island beyond the time necessary for fishing and drying of fish. But it shall be allowed to the subjects of France to catch fish and to dry thenr on land, on that ^Jai't only wliich stretches from tlie ])lace called Cape Bonavista to the nortliern point of the said island, and thence running down by her western side, reaches as far as the- place called Pointe Riche. But the island called Cape Breton, as also others both in the mouth of the River St. Lawrence, and in the Gulf of the same nanu-, shall hereafter belong of right to the French, and the Most Christian King shall have all manner of liberty to fortify any place or places there."' nSHEKV TREATIES BETWEEN GREAT BRITAIN AND THE UNITED STATES. The treaties between Great Britain and tlu' United States,- bearing on the fisheries in British-American waters — Newfound- land included — have been the subject of lengthened disputes and A-ohrminous diplomatic correspondence, and the difference in opinion regarding their projjer construction has given rise to- mucli irritation and international jealousy. The treaty of 1783, Avhich recognized American Independence, in its third article conferred upon the people of the United States the right to take fish of every kind on the Grand Bank and all the other Banks of Newfoundland ; also in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and on such jiartof the coast of Newfoundland as British fishermen shall use ;■ INTERN ATIOX AT. TREATIKS. 191 but not to ilrv nr cure the same on tlmt island, and al-o en tlir coast, bays and creeks of all ntliev of His Britannie ]Maje>ty'.-^ dominions in Ameiica ; also lilierty to dry and cure fisli in any of the unsettled bays, harbours and ci'eeks of Nova Si'otia, ^big- dalen Islands and Labi'ador, so long as they remain unsettled. CONVENTION OF 1818. The rights guaranteed by this article Avere enjoyed to the Avar" of 1812 Avhich terminated tlie Treaty of 1783. The Treaty of Glient contained no reference to the irsheries, and disputes having arisen between tlie fishermen of the two nations, the Convention of 1818 was agreed on. Its first article provided that "The in- liabitants of the United States shall have for ever, in common with the subjects of His Britannic Majesty, tlie liberty to take." fish of every kind on that part of the southern coast of Xew- foundland, from the said Cixpe Ray to the Ramean Islands ; on the western and northern coasts of Newfoundland, from the said Cajie Ray to the Quirpon Islands, and on the shores of the Mag-' dalen Islands" — also on Labrador; also that, "The American fishermen shall have liberty for ever to dry and cure tisli in any of the unsettled bays, harbours and creeks of the southern part of the coast of Newfoundland here above described, and of the coast of Labrador," such right to terminate when any portions- become settled. Further : the United States in this artic le agreed to "renounce any liberty heretofore enjoyed or claimed by the inhabitants thereof to take, dry or cure tish on or within three marine miles of any of the coasts, bays, creeks or harbours of His Britannic Majesty's dominions in America ;" and Avere only to enter such bays or harliours for shelter, or to olitain wood or water. RECIPKOCITY TREATY, 1854. This convention did not work satisfactorily, and in 1854 a' Reciprocity Treaty was agreed on. By the tei'ius of this agree- ment the entire sea fishery was thrown open to Americans, as' Avell as certain rights to land and cure their fish. The Ameri- cans in turn gave British s\ibjects reciprocal privileges on theiv 192 INTERNATIONAL TREATIES. eastern coasts. This treaty was to continue for twelve years. At the end of that jperiod it was terminated in 1880 at the in- stance of the American Government. In 1871 the Treaty of Washington -was concluded. It dealt with the complications .arising out of the " Alabama Claims," and also with the fishery rights of both nations. It threw oi:)en the fisheries to the Amer- icans in ahnost the precise terms of the Recijirocity Treaty. It was further agreed that commissioners should determine the re- :Spective value of the fishery i:)rivileges mutually granted. When these commissioners met in Haliftix, five and a-half million dol- lars were awarded to the Dominion of Canada and Newfound- land as compensation for the concessions made by them to the Americans, in throwing open to them fisheries of greater value than those conceded by the United States to Britisli fishermen. .Of this sum Newfoundland received one million dollars. Tlie Americans were dissatisfied with the award and the treaty was terminated, at their. instance, in twelve years, ending in 1883. ;Since then the Convention of 1818 has been in force. Several .attempts have been made to establish another Fishery Treaty between the United States and Canada, but without success. Newfoundland endeavoured to make a separate treaty with the United States, and tlie Bond-Blaine CouA-ention Avas the result. Hitherto the British Goveiumeut have failed to sanction this arrangement. CHAPTER IX. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEOPLE— THE CLASSES AND THE MASSES. MERCHANTS AND THE SUPPLYING SYSTEM. We come now to glance at the characteristics and general (^nalities and endowments of the people who have to fight life's lialtle on this sea-girt isle, and l>y whom its destinies must be largely determined. IMPORTANCE OF RACE. There is a great deal in race. Climate, modes of life, general environments, may do much to modify racial characteristics and tendencies, but can never wholly efface them, That a peojjle or an individual should be descended from a sound, good stock, is a matter of vast importance. "Blood" must ever count for much. The people who are doing the A\ork of to-day are the epitome of their respective long lines of ancestry— the summing up of whole generations whose labours and moral and intellec- tual attainments have culminated in tliemselves and made them what they are. "Can tlie Ethi()])ian change his skin or the leo- IDard his spots ?" "We can no moie throw aside our race pecu- liarities and characteristics than we can get clear of our own shadows. The ci-ossing and intermingling of races may go a certain length in effecting changes in the resulting progeny ; but the "Ethiopian" cuticle is ineffaceable and will re-appear in spite of all superficial varnishings. Ancestry is an important factor in shaping the destinies of a peoid:\ A GOOD STCCK. Xow the two hundred tliousand people who at present consti- tute the whole population of Newfoundland — an island much larger than Ireland — are come of a good stock, or rather stocks, 194 CHARACTERISTICS OF THE rEOI'LE. for tlu'V are derived entirely from the Saxon and Celtic races;/ ]Moreover, the blood, in this isolated region, has been kept pure from any undesirable intermixtuies ; and, so far, this filended race has been developed under favourable circumstances. The intei-mingling of Saxon strength, energy, endurance arid capacity for " toiling terribly," with Celtic swiftness, brilliancy, imagina- tiveness and emotional activity, ought to produce a superior race, having the best ipialities of the .-locks fiom which they oiiginated, SAXOX A]NI> CJKLTIC ELEMENTS. Newfoundland enjoys the distinction of being Great Britain's oldest Colony. This was the tirst i)ortiou of the western world on which the Saxon set his foot. It '\\as here that the nation which was destined to discover the Xorth-West Passage and the .sources of the Nile, and to plant American, Indian and Austra- lian Empires tirst raised its Hag in the west and tried its tirst exijeriment in colonization. And the lir.-t colonists who settled here were not men who were forced to "leave their country for' their country's good." Some of them were men born in the "Spacious times of great Elizabeth" — men l)rave, enterprising, true sea-kings who could fearlessly " lay their hands on ocean's mane." Many of them were Devonshire men — the country that produced Sir Walter Raleigh and his half-brother Sir Humphrey Gilbert, and Drake and Hawkins, and many another old English woi'th)'. To these were added, at a later date, some of Ireland's- best blood ; for the men ^\•ho Mere l)rought liere by Sir George Calvert, Viscount Falkland and Sir David Kirke from Ireland, were of the right stamp for colonists ; while tiie Irish emigrants ■who arrived at a later date Avere those wlio sought new homes- beyond the Atlantic, in order to escape from persecution and evil days in their native land. TIius, on the soil of Newfound- land, the tough enduring Saxon and the nidri' lively, versatile Celt have met, in ])roportions not far from equal ; and from tliis wholesome amalgamation of races have sprung the stalwart men and comely matrons and maids whom the travellei' of to-day looks on with admiration. Tlie race has taken kiudlv to the ('HAKACTERISTICS OK TlIK I'EorLE. 197) toil timl UiriMMi. l-Jcareil iu one ol' llie most saliiln-ioiis cliniatt-s ill tlu' wiiiM. liicatliiug an invigorating atniosplifiv, ciigageil largely iu (i]ieii-aii- I'liqiloviiu'iits, — many of them constantly iiattling with the hillows, — a lianly, energetic race ha- growu^ nji, in whom the red corpuscles ol' the lilooil predominate ami who are well titteil for the world's rough work. In the historical sketch the early settler- were dejiicled and the hardships they liad to euconntei', — Hghting cold and hunger in their "tilts,"' battling with the ice-tloes, drawing a scanty subsistence from the stormy dceau, and pursuing their ill-ieiiiunerated lahnurs amid sore discouragements of all kinds, llut in the struggle with ditticulties they gained energy, courage, self-reliance, all that constitutes true manliood ; and they transmitted these as an in- lieritauce to their jiosterity who lia\'e now "entered into their labours," and find their lot cast amid happier surroundings. — They and their fathei's have buti'eted the lullows and drunk in ■the health-giving sea-breezes, and now we find the present gene- ration of Newfoundlanders, in their general physicjue, a ]>ower- fuUy built, loliust and hardy race. The noblest nations of the earth, past and present, were not nurtured amid the flowers of the South, but in tlie cold and stern North, where nature had to be coiKpiered liy sweat of brow, and where the barren wilder- jiess had to be transformed liy hard toil into the fruitful tichl. 3IKNTAL KNDOW>IKXTS. It is (juite true that the intellectual develo[)meut of the people in the past was not cared for as, under happier au.spices, it miglit have been. When men are "living from hand to mouth," ami sti'Uggling for the daily bread, mental jiursuits are imj)ossible ami education is little considered. A great change for the better, liowever, has taken place within the last quarter of a century. The people are learning to appreciate the value and imi)ortance of education, for which State pirovision is now made and in which great imjiroveiuenls have been elfected. Many have now attaineil a position of comfort ami even wealth ; so that leisure is secured for the cultivation of the miml an:l attention to re- 19G cha];actei!Isti('8 of the people. finements in tante and habits of life. AVlieu young Newfound- landers go to other countiies for the jjrofes.sional training not yet attainable at liome, they are able, in many instances, to com- pete successfully with other youths and to win honours at school and college. Indeed, anyone wlio comes into contact with the masses of the people cannot fail to be struck with their mental quickness and general intelligence. Let education do its work and it will be found that here is a people who, when duly cul- tured, will j^lay ]io unwortliy part in the world of the future, and will compete -witli tlie l)rain-^vorkers of the coming age in all departments of lii'e. MOKAt, QUALITIES. It is admitted on all hands that a more moral, ordeily and' law-abiding people cannot be found elsewhere. Serious crime is rare and the proportion of offenders against the law to the whole population is very small. Temperance has made great progress among them, and on the whole they are a sober people. Their kindness and hospitality to strangers who visit the country are proverlnal. A traveller finds himself at once at home in New- foundland whether in the capital or the more distant settlements,, and all vie with eacli other in showing him attention and kind- ness. Quiet, orderly, church-going, attached to their religious faith, the people live j^eaceably among themselves, and outbreaks of l)igotr3' or fanaticism are noAV almost unknown. Kindness to the poor and indigent is a marked feature in the character of the people ; and when through failure of the precarious fisheries, dis- tress occurs, the fishermen help each other to the full extent of their mean^, and often share to the last morsel with those who are more destitute than themselves. Charitable societies for the relief of the poor arc organized in the capital and the chief towns. In no other country is there a more generous liberality shown to sufferers when oveitaken by calamity or misfortune. Sm II. liONNYCASTLE'S OPINION. Sir Richard Bonnycastle, who resided for some time in New- foundland, and knew the country and people well, in his book CHAKACTEItlSTirS OF THE rEOPI.K. 197 entitled " NewfoundliUid in 1842," hears the following testimony to the character of the people : — " I declare, and I am snre I shall be borne out by e\-ery class of people in this country, and l)y all those whose domicile is meiely a transient one, that a more |)eaceable, resjjectable, loyal, or kinder-hearted race than the Newfoundland Englisli and Irish, whether emigrant or native- born, I never met with. All they want, now that temperance has so beneficially operated upon them, is education, agriculture, roads, and the quiet which a firm, decided and imjjartial govern- ment promises to hiiw in store for them." Many similar eulo- gies might? be quoted, did sjjace permit, for all writers agree in admiring and commending the natural (qualities of Newfound- landers. THK Uri'EK CLASSES. There is, of course, no distinction of ranks other than that arising from wealth, education or official or professional position. The U2>per class is composed of the officials of the Government, members of the Legislature, judges, clergy, merchants, doctors, lawyers, and wealthy individuals who have retired from busi- ness. The middle class is composed of the newer merchants, importers, commission agents, shop-keepers, tradesmen, farmers, and that large class who l)y industry and economy liave acquired a modest competence. This middle class, well nameil " the shield of society," is steadily increasing, and is making its in- fluence for good felt extensively. On its growth and jJermanence largely depends the future of the country ; and one of the most hoi:)eful signs of the present time is that its ranks are swelling. The middle class who look to Newfoundland as their home and that of their children, must be regarded as the mainstay of the country. It is among them that the sentiment of jn-ogress has taken deepest root ; and that a strong desire for the development of the resources of the island is most keenly felt. The fishermen and the working classes generally welcome the prospect of new industries for the support of themselves and their children, feel- ing that the fisheries alone are insufficient for their increasing numbers. '^98 CIIAIJAI TKKISTICS OF THK PEOPLE. Tlic capitalists ot" the cuiiutrv are the iin'irliauts, muuerically .a small class, liut \-itally iiii})ortant to the interests of the com- munity and the prosecution of the staple imlustries on which the 1>ulk of the people ilepend for a suhsistence. They collect, ex- ])ort and dispose of the A-arious products of the lisheries ; and import the supplies of all kinds, food, clothing, tishing gear, etc., i-e(|uired hy the tisherinen. Their vessels carry tlie dried fish, .oil, etc., t(j the con-uniing countries, such as Brazil, Spain, Portugal and Italv. They own most of the large steamers which prosecute the seal fishery. Thei'e aie now liut aliout ten .of the' large mercantile tirm< engaged in tlu' exporting husine.s.s, all hut one having their e>tahlishments in St. John's. There are a numl)er of other firms wlio give out supplies to the fi.shermen at the beginning of each season, and take the products of their ;laljour.s in return, hut who .sell the fish thus collected to the large exporting firms. These import their own goods, hut do not gen- .erally engage in the e.xjtort trade. THK C'KKDIT SYSTEM. In the historical sketch, the evils of the long contest between the " merchant-adventurers'" of the olden times ^vho claimed a .mono]»oly of the fi.shei'ies and caia-ied them on from England and the resident tishei'men wlio had settled in the country are de- picted. The latter had nnudi to bear, and were cruelly wronged .and trampled on. The conflict was long and bitter, and it is not Avonderful that the fishermen regarded the merchants as tyrants and oppressors and reckoned them, for generations, as their natural enemies. The antagonism between the two clas.ses was \iolent ; and the nu-mories of what their forefathers sutf'ered lung rankled in the minds of the sturdy settlers. Traditions of the "bad old times" were handed down from generation to generation. The .cidonists at length won the day ami gained their liberties. The migratoiv fishery from England ceased, and all monopolies at length ended. CAPITALISTS NKKDKI). Still capitalists wei-e found to be indisjiensable. The lisheries CIIAKACTERISTICS OF THE PEOPLE. 199 could not Ije ran-icil on witliunt tlu-m. Sliips were needed to carry the fi.'^li to market ; Ijoats, coasting vessels, fishing gear, must he procured. Tlie fishermen wei'C poor and most of them i-e(|uired advances in food and clotliing at the connnencement of each fishing seas(ju. Labour mu.st l)e organized or the fishermen Avould starve. Capital wa.s needed to put the wheels of industry in motion. Thus a new race of merchants sprung up. Many of them were men wlio by their superior energies, skill and perse- verance, rose from the ranks, and accumulated ANealth which they used in the business of the country. Otliers were men who represented business firms in tlie old country and invested their capital in the fisheries. Tlius grew up the " credit " or " supply- ing system" as it was called. The merchants made advances in tlie necessaries of life, and at the close of the fishing season re- reived the products of the fishermen's labours in payment. It is a system frauglit willi many evils ; Init under such circum- i^tances, its growtli and ramifications were iuevitalile. It was injurious to the industries of the 2)eople. Many l)ecame hope- lessly plunged in debt, and men so circumstanced lost heart and hope, and became <lependent, anil too often indolent, careless as to the cure of tlieir fish, and inditt'ei'ent as to the payment of tlieir advances. On the otlier hand the cajjitalists liaving great risks to run, and bail debts and precarious fisheries to reckon on, are compelled to charge higher rates tlian tliose of the ordinary market, otherwise he would speedily become bankrupt. The "supplying system '' is cpiite as Ijad for the merchant as the fish- .erman ; and it is a great mistake to sujipose that tlie merchants are accumulating large fortunes in this line of l)usiness, which is as bad for him who gives as for him who takes. In fact the merchants have done much in recent years to"curtail the " credit system ''" and keep it within the narrowest possilde bounds. Its extinction, however, must be a matter'of time. To attempt to terminate it abruptly would cioate wide-sjHcad misery, and derange the whole business of the country. C'OXSERA^4TISM OF THE OLDER SCHOOI. OF 3XEKCHANTS. "What is needed now is to promote a good understanding be- 200 CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEOPLE. tween capital and laboui' — between emploj'er and employecu Twenty-five or tliirty years ago most of tlie capitalist class were" non-resident. Many of them came here to make money and then to return to their liomes in the old comitry to enjoy it. — ■ Their interest in the peojile and in the advancement and pros- perity of the country could not bo the same as in the case of those who regarded it as their permanent abode and the home of their children. In many cases the wealth they amassed did not remain as capital to extend industries and develope the re- sources of the island, but went to enrich other lands. This older order of merchants looked i;pon the island as solely a fishing country, and were more or less opposed to all changes and inno- vations, or the promotion of other forms of industry. Hence' the working class regarded them very much in the light of ab- sentee landlords, wliose interests were not identical with their own. An unfriendly relation between capital and labour thus groAv up. NE^V SCHOOL OF ]VIEKCHA>T,S. The last quarter of a century, however, has witnessed a won- derful change. Not onh has the middle class increased in num- bers and wealth, but the ideas and position of the merchant class have Ijeen entirely altered. jNIore and more they are becoming permanent residents in the country and are looking to it as their home. They are erecting tasteful and costly residences. The present generation of merchants and capitalists are thoroughly convinced of the necessity of turning to account the rich natu- ral resources of the country and opening up new industries for the employment of the people, for whose support the fisheries are insufficient. They are men of intelligence, energy anil pro- gressive views, and jarepared to do their part in advancing the interests of the country and opening it by railways. They iden- . tify themselves with the people, and their help and guidance will be valuable. The old prejudices and the spirit of antago- nism on the part of the working classes towards the merchants — the 23roduct of former times and of old memories and tradi- tions — will disappear when they are found doing tlieir duty,, CHARACTEUISTICS OF THE ]'P:()I'LE. 201 and coufidcncu iiml l'iieu<lly relations 1h.4wcl-u tlie " classes ami the masses" will be restoreil. But, tliat lliis mav Ije realised, a kindly and friendly interest must lie manifested in the avuII- being of the jjoor toiling fishermen, -whose lot has been hard enough ; and no efforts must be spared to improve their condi- tion and raise them to a higher level. They are naturally a warm-hearted })eople, who will respond to kindness. Their faults of character, it must be remembered, are chiefly the re- sults of their surroundings and the hard and harsh struggles through which they have been obliged to pass. Let the uijjier classes show that they have the welfare of the peojile at heart and do their part in a patriotic spirit in promoting the advance- ment of the Colony, and friendly relations between cajjital and labour, which is especially desirable here, need not be disturbed. THE PLANTERS. There is another class of smaller capitalists, called " planters," to be found in all the principal fishing centres. This term car- ries us back to the days when all colonies were " plantations," anil the colonists were "planters." The "survival" of the name here is curious, for it does not at all indicate a man who plants or cultivates anything, but simply a sort of middle-man who stands between the merchant and the fisherman. He takes his sujjplies of goods and fishing requisites direct from the merchant, to whom he is accountable, and distributes them among a num- ber of fishermen who look to him for advances ; and at the close of the fishing season they hand over the proceeds of their labour as payment. The j^rice of fish is, of course, determined by the demand in foreign markets, and by the quantity taken. The larger the sea-harvest here and in Norway, the great rival of Newfoundland, as a rule, the lower the price. The j^lanter again passes on the fish he has collected to the siij)plying merchant. Many of the planters are independent and pay cash for their supplies. Others have but small means, and are simply more enterprising fishermen who own a " fishing-room" with a few boats and seines. They engage a number of hands for the season and the fish are made on their own premises. 202 CHARACTEKISTICS OF THE PEOPLE. THE F1SHEKME>\ 111 tlie lieiglit of tliL' lishiiig season, if fisli ave almndant tlie labours of the iislieiineu are severe and incessant ; but during the long winter, the bulk of them are in a state of enforced idle- ness. In the fall of (lie year, after the fish are dispo-ed of, there are boats, nets, etc., to repair, stages and tlakes to look after, and fuel to lie cut in tlie woods and hauled over the snow. Much of the work of handling and drying tish is done by women and girls, whose work is ol'teii veiy heavy. If the tishery has proved suc- cessful, the fisherman has a snug Ijalance coming to him, after paying for his summer supplies and is enabled tu lay in a stock ■of provisions for the winter. Should the fisheries prove a failure, the poor fisherman aftei' all his toil has perhaps only a lew quin- tals of fish to haufl over in payment of his advances. He is then dependent on the lil)erality of the merchant oi' planter for a sup- l^ly of the necessaries of life to carry him through the winter. Should he have done his best, and acted honestly, such supplies are rarely refused. The merchant or sui)})lier has to take the risks of the voyage as well as the fisherman, and in Viad seasons his losses are often very heavy. Shouhl a second or third Imd .season follow on the back of the first, the unfortunate fisherman too often becomes hopelessly involved in debt. The merchant finds himself at the end of the year with a long list of bad or very doulitful delits in his ledger, and sutt'ers (juite as much as the fisherman. It is easy to see that the business of supijlying for the fisheries is far from being a bonanza. One liad season may sweep away the gains of several good ones. The more the credit system is curtailed the better for both parties. The mer- chants would be ghul to abolish credit and jiay the fishermen in cash for their fish when taken ; but the practice is deeply en- grained, during by-gone generations, in the habits and ideas of the peoi)le, and the bulk of them are too jioor to dispense with advances. The more distant fisheries, such as on Labrador and the Banks, could not at present be carried on without large outlay of ca})ital. To \vithdraw advances suddenly wouhl be to entail .starvation on thousands. The jireseut class of merchants and CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEORLE. 20:^^ capitalists are not accountable for a system which originated when the fisheries were first worked and is the growth of many generations. Tliey can only get rid of it by slow degrees. nSHIiSG POPULATION IMPllOVING. Late years, howe\'er, have witnessed a niarl^ed improvement in the condition of the fishermen. They are beconung more provi- dent and thrifty ; and i'ar larger ninnbers tlian formerly can now aftbrd to dispense with supplies on credit, and pay in cash for what they require. There is every reason to hope that this will be a steadily increasing class, as education spreads. Tliose wim combine farming with fishing are invariably the most inde- pendent and comfortable oi their class. On the wliole tlie fishermen of Newfoundland, though they have not much of this world's goods, compare not unfavourably, as to their condition, with the labouring classes of other countries. It tliey have pri- vations and hardships they have many compensations for these, ill their free o^jen-air life, tlieir robust health, their capabilities of enjoying simple pleasures. There is jierhapsas mucli genuine happiness among them as among any similar nundjer who toil for the daily bread. Compared with tlie pale factory workers, the toilers in the great cities of Europe and America who breathe a iiestifei'ous atmosphere in crowded tenements, too often ainid foul conditions that depres.s the spirits and shorten life, the con- dition of these hardy fisliermen is an enviable one. Their 23assionate attachment to the land of their l)irth, their love for it when settled in other lands and their frequent longings to retuni, — all indicate that their life has been on the whole a liap[iy one. SOCIAL, ENJOYMENTS. Winter is tha fishermen's season for enjoyment. In their homes, however jioor, life vindicates its right to gladness and re- laxation. The season for "fireside enjoyments, home-born liap- j)iness " is welcomed. They have their social 2>leasures, oxitdoor sports, games, shooting, hunting, trajjping, etc. Dancing is a favoarite winter amusement among tlie lisln-nnen and their families ; and to the music of the fiddle, tlie tlute or fife, or in the absence of any other instrument, the .lew's Hari>, they dance 204 CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PEOPLE. for hours with a vigoui- and lionest lieartiness which brings them more real pleasure than is experienced in the refined and artifi- eial entertainments of more advanced loinniunities. Weddings in particular are celel)rated with an auiouut of gaiety and festi- vity whicli at once imlicates exubei'ance of animal spirits, and a kintlly sympathy with the " liappy couple." Winter is also the .season for tea festi\'als, religious and secular sijirees, lectures, con- certs, readings with music, &c. St. John's, the capital, of course, takes the lead in such matters, and there winter is considered by far tlie joleasantest season. A taste for theatricals and concerts has been develojied among its people ; clubs, reading rooms, libraries, furnish social and intellectual enjoyments. With balls, .skating rinks, snow-shoeing, tobogganing, sleighing, tlie winter passes pleasantly among the Avell-to-do classes. In tlie larger towns and villages similar social enjoyments, on a smaller scale and of a simpler character, are multijdying ; and newspapers, liooks, periodicals, now find their way among the lonely "dwell- ers by the sea " where formerly they were entirely unknown, and are stirring intellectual life among the toilers of the sea. If it be true, as some one has stated it, tliat "the law of the world's progress is an advance from the warmer to the colder latitudes," — from the enervating heat of the tropical and semi- tropical lands to the invigorating climes of the bracing north, Ave may ask whether the day is not coming when these stalwart islanders, nurtured amidst storms and grim north-easters, l)at- lling with the billows amid ice-la<len seas, will take a liigh place among the world's workers and leaders, and outstrip the less capalile iidiabitants of warmer regions. The most flourishing and densely peopled jmrts of New England States and Canada were, two centuries ago, looked upon, from outside, very much as those regions of Newfoundland we have l)een describing, are now regarded liy the outside world. If the latent possibilities of the former have develo])ed so marvellously, in a few generations, may Ave not regard such an advance as a prece<lent for the i>ro- gressive capabilities, at present dormant, in the comparatively .small population who occujjy this island. CHAPTER X. POPULATION— RATE OF INCREASE. CENSUS OF 1891. The earliest e.^timato of the resident population of the island -was made in 1654, %\heu it was ascertained that about 350 fami- lies were scattered in the different harbours. Allowing an ave- rage of five persons to each family, the total population was, at that date, 1,750. In 1680, the commanders of the convoy friga- tes, on duty in connection witli the fisheries, collected statistics of the population which gave 2,280 as the number of residents. "The West Country merchants, who cai'ried on the fisheries from England, had in the same year nearly 4,000 men employed in ihe various fishing ^Jorts of the island, who all returned to Eng- land at the close of the season. They had 97 ships of the burden of 9,305 tons ; 793 boats ; 133 stages. Besides they had 99 ships .of 8,123 tons, navigated by 1,157 seamen and employed in carry- ing the produce of the fisheries to Europe, the West Indies and South America. Their annual take was 133,910 quintals of dried .codfish, and 1,053 hog.sheads of train-oil. In 1698, the resident j^opulation reached 2,640, who that year caught 101,152 quintals of fish. Tlie following table .shows the resident pojjulation in the years named : — ~^'ear. Poimlation. 1654 . 1,750 1680 . 2,280 169S . 2,640 1763 . 7,000 1780 . 8,000 1785 . 10,000 206 POPULATION. Year. Po]nilation 1804 . 20,380 1825 55,719 1827 . 59,571 1832 60,000 1836 . 75,094 1845 98.703 1857 (La1 >ra(.lor iiicludoil) 124,288 1869 u 146,536 1874 (( 161,374 1884 u 197,589 1891 u 202,040 RETURNS OF THE RELIGIOUS DENOMINATIONS. It was not till 1845 that the different religions denominations- Avere distinguished in the censns returns. Tlie following table shows the respective numhers of the two k-ading divisions of Roman Catholics and Protestants in the years named, according to the census returns : — Year. 1845 . 1857 . 1869 . 1874 . 1884 . 1891 (Labrador inc.) 127,94 The following table gives, in detail, the numerical strength of the different denominations at the various periods named : — Protestants. Roman Catlioli 49,505 46,983 67,743 57,214 85,496 61,040 97,057 65,317 122,259 75,330 ) 127,947 72,696 1845. Chui'cli of Rome . 46,983 Church of England . . 34,294 Methodists . 14,239 Presbyterians 478 Congregational ists 539 Remainder iinknown. roruLATiox. lS5r. Churcli of Roiae . 57,214 Cluu-ch of England . 44,285' Metliodists . 20,229' Presbyterians 83S Conf^^regationalists 347 Baptists and otliers 1869. 44 Cliurcli of Eome . 61,040 Cluircli of England . 55,184 Methodists . 28,990' Presbj'terians 974 Congregationalists 338 Baptists 1874. 10' Clmrcli of Eome . 64,317 Cliurcli of England . 59,561 Methodists . 35,702 Presbyterians . 1,168 Congregationalists 461 Baptists and others 1884. 165 Church of Eome . 75,330 Church of England . 69,646 Methodists . . 48,943 Presb^'terians . 1,478 Congregationalists 768 Baptists and others 1891. 65 Church of Rome . 72,696' Church of England . 69,824 Reformed Church o f En-land 487 Methodists , , . 5,3,276 Presbyterians . . 1,449' 207 ■208 POPULATION'. Congregationalists .... 782 Salvation Army .... 2,092 Baptists and others .... 37 Moravians on Labrador . . . 1,397 The last iiamed returns include Labrador. The total poi)ulation of Newfoundland and Labrador in 1884 was 197,335. The census of 1891 gives 202,040 as the population of both ; showing an increase of 4,705 in seven years, or at the rate of 2.38 per cent, in that time, or at the rate of 3.40 per cent, in ten years. From 1874 to 1884 the increase was 36,209, or at the rate of 22.4 per cent, in ten years. The falling off in in- . crease from 1884 to 1891 was caused by emigration to the United States and Canada, oAving to deficient fislieries. The emigration has almost ceased during the last two or three years, so that pro- bably the increase of pojnilation lias now resumed its normal proportions. The Labrador population in 1891 stood as follows in regard to • denomination : — Church of England . 1,749 Church of Eome 354 Methodists 604 Presbyterians 2 Moravians . 1,397 INIicmac Indians . 20 The Moravians are christianized E squimaux. POPULATION. 209 The following taljle shows the population of Newfoundland according to denomination, census of 1891 : — POPULATION OF NEWFOUNDLAND ACCORDING TO DENO- MINATION, CENSUS OF 1891. District. Church of Eng- ' ' land. j! . il 6 Wesleyan. Presbyterian. Other Denomi- nations. 1 St. Bailie 3,362 1,784 1,627 14 3 Twilliugate ... 3,916 2,449 9,661 58 696 Fogo ..^ 2,829 1,174 2,692 4 1 Bonavista 8,550 3,069 6,045 14 171 Trinity ... 9,947 1,613 6,888 11 413 Bav-de- Verde 506 ... 1,011 2,135 1,896 7,062 2,734 5 Carbonear ... 10 114 Harbor Grace 8,033 5,494 1,964 157 233 Port-de-C4rave 2,999 1,991 2,722 1 273 Harbor Main ... 2,157 6,814 218 St. John's East ... 5,376 11,644 2,767 652 337 St. .John's West ... 3,174 9,112 2,368 378 219 Ferryland 169 5,673 5 5 1 Placentia 1 ,643 10,614 527 13 5 Burin 1,797 2,930 3,845 2 485 Fortune 5,292 1,817 120 4 438 Burgeo and La Poile". 5,162 138 1,166 4 1 St. George ... 2,252 3,995 261 121 3 Labrador 1,749 354 604 2 1,397 Total ... 69,834 72,696 53,276 1,449 4,795 Factories, mills, &c., in New bundlan d, Censu 3 of 1891 : — No. of a Saw Mills . Tanneries . 53 . 3 a Breweries and Distillei ies 2 a 4( Iron Foundeii Bakeries es . . 2 . 4 u Furni ture Fac Lories . 4 210 POrULATIOX. Value of Other Factories . 24 Value of above Factories . $893,860 " Goods ^'reduced $1,450,456 No. of hands employed . 1,209 " Lobster Factories . 340 " persons employed . 4,807 Value of Lobster Factories . $179,288 No. cases Lobsters, 1890 . . 77,580 Agricultural Slock and Produce, &c., in Newfoundland, Censu of 1891 :— Acres Improved Land . 64,494 " in Pasture . 20,524 "Wheat and Barley —liushels 491 Oats — bushels . . 12,900 Hay — tons . 36,032 Potatoes — l)rls. . . 481,024 Turnips — l)rls. . . 60,235 Horses .... . 6,138 Milch Cows . 10,863 Otlier Horned Cattle . ' . . 12,959 Sheep .... . 60,840 Swine .... . 32,011 Fowl .... . 127,420 Professional men — Census 1891 : — Clergymen 180 Teachers .... 601 Lawyers .... 43 Doctors .... 62 Government officials . 608 Census 1891 — According to emiiloym ent :— Merchants and Traders 767 Clerks and shop hands . 1,948 Mechanics . 2,681 Factory hands . . 1,058- Lumberers and ]\Iiners . 1,923 Engaged in curing fisli . 53,502 Farming .... 1,545" 1'01'ULATIOX. 211 According l(.) place of Ijiitli : — Natives ..... . 193,353 Foreign Britisli . 3,049 Colonies . 1,163 Other countries 369 .Census of 1891 sliows that there are of Deaf . . . ... . 159 Deaf and Dunili . . . . . 136 Blind . 187 Crippled and Disabled Paupers . 2,485 Lunatics . 280 Orphans . . . . . . 690 The Sexi's .stand to each (jther thus : — :yiaies . 100,684 Females ..... . 97,259 AOF. There are from 65 to 70 vears of age 1,536 males. " 65 to 70 " " 1,486 females. " 70 to 75 " 1,062 males. " 70 to 75 983 females. " 75 to 80 008 males. " 75 to 80 " 587 females. Upwards of 80 376 males. Upwanls of 80 " 468 females. The foUowfng are a few more items of interest which appear in census of 1891. In the twelve months preceding the census year there were 6,599 births ; 4,362 deaths ; 894 marriages. The number of males engaged in curing fish 35,931 ; of females eu- gage<l in curing fish 17,571. Xiunber of males who can read, 47,077 ; of females who cfin read, 47,803 ; of males who can write, 36,877 ; of females who can write, 36,273. There are 31,983 married males ; and 38,098 married females ; 2,973 widow- ers ; and 5,800 widows. There are 33,644 inhabited houses and 37,299 families. The number of churches is as follows : — Church of England . . . .156 Church of Rome 131 Methodists 128 Other Denominations . . . .12 CHAPTER XL MODE OF GOVERNMENT. REVENUE, TKADE, PUBLIC EIXAXCES. In 1832 the boon of Representative Government was granted' to Newfonndland. In 1855, in compliance -witli the strongly expressed desire of the people, what is commonly known as "Responsible Government" was, after a lengthened agitation, conceded to the Colony. This was simply the application of the principles of the Britisli Constitution to the government of the island. It provided tliat " the country should be governed ac- cording to the well-understood A\'islies of the people." The j^arty who aie sustained by a majority in the Legislature have at their disposal the apj)ointments to the principal offices in the Colony. They also select the Executive Council. The House of Assembly is elected by the peojjle ; the Legislative Council is nominated by " the Governor in Council." CONSTITUTIOX. This form of government consists of a Governor who is aji- pointed by the Crown, liis salary of (^12,000 a year being paid liy the Colony ; an Executive Council chosen by the i^arty com- manding a majority in the Legislature, and consisting of seven members ; a Legislative Council of lifteen members nominated by the Governor in Council, and holding office for life ; and a House of Assembly at present consisting of 3t) members, elected every four years by the votes of the jjeople. In the governing body thus consisting of the Governor, reijresenting the Queen, the Legislative Council and the House of Assembly, is vested collectively the legislative power. They have alse exclusive jurisdiction over- such matters as the public debt and property ; raising money on the credit of the Colony by loan, taxation, IMODE OF GOVEIiX.MENT. 213" postal sei'vici', trade, commerce, fislieries, etc. Tlie (General Gov- ernment is also tlie custodian of the piililic lands, fmm wliich are disburseil the expenses of the public sers'ice. There are 18 electoral districts sending 36 members to the House of Assembly, as follows : — IVJ embers Bay-de-Ycrds 2 Bona^-ista 3 Burgeo and La Poile 1 Burin 2 Carbonear . 1 Ferryland . 2 Fogo 1 Fortune Bay 1 Harbour (xrace . 3 Harbour Main . 2 Placentia and St. Mar y'^ 3 Port-de-Gra\'e . 1 St. Barbe . 1 St. George 1 St. John's East . 3 St. John's West . 3 Trinity 3 Twillingate 3 Total . 36 HOUSE OF ASSEMBLY. The members of the House of Assembly are now elected by ballot. All males, on reaching the age of 21, are entitled to vote. The members of both branches of the Legislature are paid. Members of the House of Assembly, if resident in St. John's, receive ^194 per session ; if resident elsewhere ^291 per session. The members of the Legislative Council receive ^120 per session ; the President $240. The Speaker of the House of Assembly re- ceives $1,000 per session. ■21-1 MODE OF GOVEEXMEXT. POWERS OF THK GOVKKNOK. The Governor wlio is also Coiuniauder-iu-Chief iu and over the Colony ami its (lependencies, has the jjower, in the Queen's name, to commute the sentenj?e of a court of justice; to summon, xjpen, jirorogue and on occasions dissolve the local Parliament ; to give or -withliold assent to, or reserve for tlie Eoyal considera- tion all hills -which liave passed ]yjt]i Chambers. THE EEGISIiATURE. The Legislature must meet once a year, and is usually sum- moned "for the despatch of business" in the mouth of February. Thus the Colony is jsractically self-governing. Its history shows the steady growth of government Ijy the people. The electors, in reality, govern the country, as they choose the meml^ers of the Assembly who by their votes maintain in office or overthrow the Government of the day. Xewfoundland, like England, en- joys " Responsil)le Government;" that is, each government is resjxmsible to the people, through the members of the Legislature tliey elect, to carry out tiieir wislies. SUPREME COURT. The Sui^reme Court was instituted in 1826 by the promulga- tion of a Royal Charter. To it and to magistrates Ijelong the correct interpretation and proper enforcement of the laws of the lountry. It is composed of a Chief Justice and two Assistant Judges. It holds tv.o terms or sessions each year, on the 20th of May, and the 20th of November. There are circuits of the Supreme Court lield in the northern, southern and western dis- tricts of the island, at such times and jilaces as may be fixed by the jiroclamatiou of the Governoi'. These are presided over by (]!hief Justice or one of the Assistant Judges, in rotation. The .'^alary of the Chief Justice is ^5,000 ; of each Assistant Judge, $4,000. They hold their appointments for life. COURT or LAKRADOK. The Court of Labrador has civil and criminal jurisiliction over such parts of Labrador as lie' within the jurisdiction of New- MODE OF GOVEliXMEXT. 215 •foiuidlaud. It is presided over by a judge wlio is uoniinatod by the Governor in Council. His salary is -$'1,154. CKXTKAL UISTKICT COURT. The Central District Court is a C^'ourt of Record, held in St. John's, for the said district, for the ailjudication of civil causes, and sits \vheut?ver Imsiness requires. There are two Judges ap- pointetl by tile Governor in Council. There is also a District Court in Harbour Grace with jurisdiction over the electoral dis- tricts of Conception Bay. It is presided over by a Judge, who is e:c officio a justice of the peace. There is a sheriff for each judicial district of the island who is appointed by the Governor in Council. OUAKTEK SESSIONS. Courts of general and quarter sessions are liehl in the island, in such places as may lie determined by the proclamation ot the (Tovernor. They are presided over by the stipemliary magis- trates or justices of the peace. T.AAV SOCIETY. " The Law Society of Newfoundland " is constituted by statute, ami is under the inspection of the Judges of the Sujn'eme Court for the time being. "No person is admitted by the Sujjrenie Court to practice as an Attorney unless upon actual service of live years with some practising Attorney of the island ; or, if a regular graduate of any college in Her Majesty's Douiinions of four years ; or who, having been entered on the books of ' The Law Society' as a studeut-at-law, shall have been subsequently called to the Bar in England, Scotland or Ireland, or any of Her Majesty's Colonies." Any person who has been called to the Bar in England Scotland or Ireland, or any of the colonies, upon producing evidence thereof, and undergoing a satisfactory ex- amination, may be called by tlie Law Societ}' to the degree of l^arrister. 216 MODE OF GOVEEXMEXT. reve>t;e, trade, publ,ic finances, shipping. The following table shows the revenue anil the vahiii c>f the exports and imports for tlie last twenty years : — Exports, Imports, Year. Eevence. Value. Value. 1872 ^812,752 87,166,443 $6,716,068 1873 801,412 7,700,739 6,766,603 1874 841,588 8,569,960 7,354,689 1875 830,219 8,214,768 7,058,372 1876 855,228 8,168,540 7,205,907 1877 872.913 7,625,441 7,363,634 1878 839,640 6,594,807 6,868,723 1879 962,921 7,168,924 7,261,002 1880 897,474 7,131,095 6,966,243 1881 1,003,803 7,648,574 6,86.3,708 1882 1,119,385 8,228,291 8,350,222 1883 1,262,702 7,058,738 9,131,464 1884 1,209,316 6,567,1.35 8,075,792 1885 1,009,222 4,726,608 6,698,500' 1886 1,042,424 4,862,951 6,020,036 1887 1,272,660 5,676,720 5,397,408 1888 1,370,029 6,582,013 7,420,400' 1889 1,362,893 6,607,500 6,122,985 1890 1,454,536 6,099,686 6,368,835 1891 1,824,206 7,437,158 6,869,458 1892 1,88.3,790 Records destroy ed in great fire. 1893 1,764,791 Not yet published. The f( )ll0AV ing table shows the public <k'l)t of the Colony : — Yeai Debt. 188: I . . . . $1,498,777 1883 1,549,313 1884 2,149,153 1885 2,149,597 1886 2,287,391 1887 3,005,040 1888 3,335,589 1889 . 4,133,202 1890 4,138,627 1891 5,223,363 1892 . 6,383,367 189; 5 .. 8,( )53,127 MODE OF GOYERXMEXT. 217 INCREASK OF DEBT. The increase of the i)ublic debt within the last ten years lias arisen mainly fi'om the building of aliout 31 1 miles of railway now completed and in operation ; and which, in the future, by the development of the resources of the Colony, will yield ample returns, and increase the revenue. The debt is represented bv these lines of raihvays, and also by the St. .John's Drv Dock which cost over .§600,000 ; the new Post Office, a very creditable building, and other public works such as light houses and break- waters. The remarkable expansion of the public revenue gives ample assurance that in the construction of jjublic works the Colony has not gone beyond its means and can well afford to l^ay the interest on its debt without any undue strain. The in- A-estment in railway biiilding, without which the rich natural resources of the Colony must remain dormant, has been alreadv fully justified. Within twenty years the revenue has doubled ; and is now quite sufficient for the maintenance of the civil ser- ■vdce and payment of the interest on the jjublic debt. Judging from the experience of the past there is every reason to anticipate a further steady increase of revenue. These imblic works, while in progress, distribute money in the shaj^e of wages ; and by increasing the imports add to the revenue. If we take the gross debt of .$'8,053,127 it amounts to nearly ^40 per head for the entire population. The gross debt of the Dominion of Canada is $'205,333,000, and the amount per head is $'60. In Belgium the public debt is .^63 j)er head ; in France $146 per head ; in Italy $75 per head ; United Kingdom $86 ; New South Wales $225 South Australia $330 ; and New Zealand $292 per head of the entire population. TAXATION. If Ave take the revenue of last year at $1,764,791 this shows a taxation of $8 per head for the entire population. But it must be taken into account that there are no direct taxes in New- foundland, except in St. John's which is now under a Municipal Council. The local taxation for AA'ater, sewerage and street improvements is small. The greater part of the revenue is "218 MODE OF (i(nEi;\.MEXT. <leiived ii-oiu Custoni.s' Duties on impoi-ts ; so that .^8 per head lepresents nearly the wlrole amount of taxation. In the United Kingdom the taxation is ^6-62 per liead ; in Victoria the taxa- tion is $15-35 per head ; in New SoTith Wales §'12 ; in "Western Australia $22 ; in New Zealand .5'16-91 ; in Canada ^5-81. In all these countries tliere are direct taxes in addition, whicli greatly swell the amount paid. If you take the revenues for 1889, 1890 and 1891, the average amount is -§1,580,545, which wouhl give a little over seven dollars per head for taxation. This cannot he reckoned exces- sive when it represents almost the entire yav capita taxation. The duties are partly ad valorem and partly specitic, but only to a slight extent differential, the tariff being designed for revenue purposes only, not for protection. All expenses for making and repairing roads, streets, bridges, breakv/aters, public wharves, etc., are defrayed out of the general revenue, the Board of Works having charge of that department The provision for the poor, for education, for the maintenance of a police force, and for the whole Civil Service is also chargeable on the genei'al revenue. The Crown lands and the postal service are the only other .sources of revenue besides the Customs duties. In 1891 the M-hole voluuie of trade amounted in value to $14,306,616'. The following table shows the principal countries with which trade is carried on, and the amount in each case, in year 1891 : /-. Value of Imports Value of Exports ' ' therefrom. thereto. United Kingdom §•2.341,706 $1,930,991 Dominion of Canada 2,499,945 779,634 British West Iirdies . 319,560 377,301 Italy . . . . 9,258 450,047 Spain . . . . 104,708 718,591 Portugal . . . . 30,044 1,051,8.39 St. Pierre . . . . 12,027 10,115 United States . 1,526,674 568,540 Brazil . . . . 1,102,995 ■MODE OF OOVERX-MEXT. 219 SHIPPING, 1890. NiualuT of Steamers owneil iu the Colony . . . 3") Tonnage 6,178 Number of Sailing Vessels, 20 to 60 tons . . . 1,421 Number of Sailing Vessels, 60 tons and up^^•arll . . 271 Tonnage 25,740 Niimber of Boats from 4 to 30 quintals .... 20,452 Number of Vessels built in 1890 52 Tonnage ......... 1,812 Number of Vessels engaged in Bank tisliery . . . 199 Tonnage 11,520 Number of Vessels engaged in Labrador fishery . . 859 Tonnage 93,634 CHAPTER XII. EDUCATION. It was not till witliin the last lifty yuar.s that any serious .attention was given to the cause of education in the Colony, or any aid granted from the public funds towards the establishment and maintenance of schools and academies. The circumstances under which the colonization of the country was carried out, as described in former chaj^ters, siifficiently account for this neglect in regard to the means of education. "When the people were poor and engaged in a hard struggle for the daily bread, and Avhen settlements were small and widely separated, physical Avants were too pressing to jiermit much attention being given to educational claims. As a conseijuence, in those early days many of the young grew up ignorant of tlie very rudiments of knowledge, especially in the smaller and moi'e distant settle- ments. COLONIAt, AND CONTINENTAL CHURCH SOCIETY. The beginning of common school education dates from 1823, Avhen "The Newfoundland School Society" was founded in London by Samuel Codner, a Newfoundland merchant. Its name was afterwards changed to "The Colonial and Continental •Church Society." The sshools it planted were maintained mainly by the liberality of the uieuibei's of the society, aided at a later date by a grant from the }tul)lic funds of the Colony. It has still about twenty schools in operation. Its Central School, in St. John's, is used by the Church of England Boards of Education as a training school for their teachers. This So- ciety has done excellent work in the cause of education. ACADEMIES AND COLLEGES. It was not till 1843 that tlie local Legislature granted the annual sum of £'5,100 for the promotion of common school EDUCATIOX. 221 .education. In the same year tlie Legislature made a provision for the higher education by establishing an Academy in Saint John's. This institution did not .succeed and Avas discontinued in 1850. In its room three Academies were founded on th.e denominational principle, and a fourth -was added at a later date. These tour institutions, which are connected respectively with the different religious denominations, have expanded and greatly elevated the standard of education. They are conducted by teachers of ability and high character, and give an excellent training to the pupils. They have now obtained the designation of " Colleges,"' and are known as the Roman Catholic, Church of England, Methodist, and Presbyterian Colleges. The two last- named lost their buildings in the great fire of 1892 ; but the Methodist Buildings are restored and will soon be ready for use ; ;and tliey are more spacious and better built than those destroyed in the general conflagration, and do much credit to the body to which they belong. The Presbyterian College has also resumed operations in a new building having excellent class-rooms. PUFII. TEACHEKS— LONDON UNIVERSITY CENTRE. The training of pupil teachers is carried out at the Colleges. After going through a course of education, these teachers must pass examinations, and are graded according to merit, before thej"- are eligible to take charge of schools. Pupils are also pre- pared for the Universities at most of tlie Colleges. St. .John's has been made a centre of the London University, so that pupils .can here j^repare for and j^ass the matriculation examinations. Openings are thus provided for the more talented and a.spiring of the young to attain distinction and fit themselves for the higher j)osts of duty. jriJILEE SCHOLARSHIP. As a further encouragement to those who aspire after the higher education, "The Xewfoundland Jubilee Scholarship" has been founded. The Governor in Council appropriates the annual sum of $480, " for the institution of a scholarship in the London Universitv to be given and awarded to the student who shall 222 EDUCATIOX. take the highest place among conipetitori^ in and from this Colony, at the matriculation examination holden in June and January of any year ; and -where tliere shall be no competition, then such scholarship shall be awarded to the student who shall pass in the first division in such examination : Provided that such student shall be a native of this Colony, oi' shall have re- resided in it for five years preceding such examination ; and shall have studied under masters of the Board Schools or colleges of this Colony ; and provided that such student shall, for two years thereafter, prosecute his or her studies at some British University. Such scholarship shall be tenal)le for only two years by the student winning the same." COUNCIL OF HIGHER EDUCATION. In 1893, an Act was passed to Provide for Higher Education.- This Act makes pro\-ision for the appointment of a Council of Higher Education, with the view of promoting a higher standard of education throughout the Colony by the holding of examina- tions and tlie awarding of prizes and diplomas and scholarships to successful candidates. The Council is to consist of 23 mem- bers ; and tlie Sujierintendents of Education and Headmasters of Colleges are members ex officio. The sum of $4000 annually is approjjriated for the purposes of this Act ; and the Jubilee Scholarship is made subject to the regulations of the Council. EDUCATION DENOMINATIONAL. The whole educational system is carried on upon the denomi- national principle, each religious denomination receiving a grant for education from the public funds, in proportion to its nnmljers. Separate boards of edii cation in the different districts have charge of the elementary schools. Four Superintendents of Education are appointed Ijy Government — for Roman Catholic, Cliurch of England, Methodist and Presbyterian schools and colleges re- spectively. In recent years, the progress made in education has been of a very satisfactory character, though, of course, much yet remains to Ije done, especially in the more distant settlements. It may be alleged that this plan of separate education is attended EDUCATIOX. 223' witli iiiucli waste of lueaiis and power : and no douLt tliis is true. • A united education, it' practicalile, would possess many adA-antages. It may be doubted, liowever, in the present state of denomina- tional feeling, whether united education is possible. Denomi- national zeal perhaps furnishes a stimulus to educational effort which Avould otherwise l)e wanting. United education may come in the future when denominational interests occupy men's minds to a less extent; but the best policy surely is to accejit the system now established and try to make the most and the best of it. It must be admitted that very considerable improvements have taken place in recent years, and that a far greater amount of zeal and interest in tlii cause of education than formerly is felt and manifested. That the separate system is much more costly must be alloAved ; but as things now stand, it jirobably gives the best results that could be at present attained. The recent aj^point- ment of a "Council of Higher Education," composed of the representatives of all denominations, is a step in the light direction, and will tend to promote greatei- unity of action in connection with the higher branches of education. It will also' bring together men from all parties who take an interest in edu- cation, and lead them to feel that here is a common ground on which they can meet and act for the good of all. The necessity of educating the masses who through universal suffrage are made "the masters," should l)e more keenly felt by those who have the direction of public affairs and by whom the destinies of the futui'e are, to some extent, shaped. When, by law, every man on reach- ing the age of twenty-one, is entitled to vote in the election of members of the House of Assembly, the safety and well-being of the commonwealth require that such a power should not be exercised by an uneducated people. More than ever the thorough education of the whole is now called for, as their votes are to control the government of the country. It is no doubt true that "Tlu' ci'owiung fact, Tlie kingliest act Of Fi'ftMlom is a Freeman's vote." It is, however, ecpiallv true that it is all-impoi'tant that the voters should l)e men of intelligence and integrity, who will not -224 EDUCATIOX. 'be inttueucetl liy low and ba.se considemtions, if tliey are to wisely control and jH'otect the liberties and the life of the coun- try. Freedom should be combined Avith intelligence and a sense of moral responsibility, and then the " kingliest act " — the cast- ing of tlie ballot — will he regarded as a sacred trust and will be at once safely and Ijeneficially performed The call for univer- sal education, of a wise and elevating kind, is emphatized by the boon of universal suffrage. The following taljle sliows tlie provision made by the Legisla- ture for education ? — Legislative grant in 1893 lor Colleges, (.xrammar Schools and Elementary Schools . . ^151,89122 Amount jxr capita for the entire population of 202,040 ...... To. 17 cents. Legislati\'e grant for Elementary Schools . . '3'97,753 15 " " Pupil Teachers . . 5,610 84 " " Encouragement of Teachers . 25,297 87 " " Inspection . . . 6,060 00 Legislative grant for Colleges : — Church of England . Church of Rome . , Methodist .... Presl)yterian .... Grannuar and Superior Schools Number of Elementary Schools in 1893 Church of England Church of Eome Methodist Presbyterian Others . $-3,328 53 . 3,465 49 . 2,539 72 990 00 . 7,604 07 . 194 . 200 . 144 1 . 10 Total 549 EDUCATION. 225 Number of Pujjils attemling Elemoiitary Schools in 1893 : — Cliurcli of England 11,808 Churcli of Eonie 10,205 Methodist 8,405 Presl\yterian, Congregational and others 296 Total 33,834 Xuniljer of Pupils attending Colleges, 1893 : — Church of England . . . 141 Church of Eonie . . . 250 Methodist ... . .252 Presbvterian . . . .80 Total 23 Grand total of pupils attending Colleges and Schools . . . 34,557 CHAPTER XIII. POST OFFICE DEPARTMENT, CONSTABULARY. LIGHT HOUSES, BANKS, NEWSPAPER PRESS. POST OFFICE DEPAKT3IENT. Postal communication between St. .Jolin's, the United King- dom and Eurojiean countries, the United States and Canada, i» maintained by the Allan Line of steamers ; the Canadian and Newfoundland Line, whose steamers " Barcelona," " Monica " and "Ulunda" touch at St. John's in their outward and homeward trips ; by the steamers of The Bed, Cross Line, plying between New York and St. John's via Halifax ; also by tlie steamer " St. Pierre," plying between Placentia and other western ports in Newfoundland and Halifax ria St. Pierre, and by the steamer " Harlaw " plying fortnightly bet^\'een Halifax and the west coast of Newfoundland, calling at ports in Cape Breton. Full information as to the sailings of these steamers will be found in a subsecjuent chapter containing directions for tourists. By all these lines of steamers mail communication with the out- side world is regular and frecpient during the summer months. During three winter months the Allan .steamers do not call at St. John's, but go direct to Halifax. A fortnightly steamer dur- ing those months runs between St. John's and Halifax carrying mails and passengers ; but the steamers of the Canadian and Newfoundland Line call at St. John's, on both their outward and homeward voyages, throughout the winter moutlis. The "St. Pierre" makes fortnightly trips between Halifax and Pla- centia during winter months. Local postal communication between St. John's and the vari- ous towns, villages and settlements, is maintained by railways^ coastal steamers and steam-launches, vehicles and couriers. I'OST OFFICE DEl'AUT.MEXT. Tl i Tlie lailway to Harbour Grace conveys the mails for the towns . uul settleiiient.s of Concoptiou Bay, Bay de Verde District, ami tlie south sliore of Trinity Bay. Tlie Placentia railway carries tlie mails for Placentia ami St. Mary's Bays to Placentia, whence they are distrilnited by the s. s. Alvrt which plies round the Bay, her route extending to Grand Bank in Fortune Bay. The Xor- thei'n ami AVestern Railway carries the mails for the northern districts, ^\•hich at various points are transmitted to their desti- nation either by steam-launches or couriers. The coastal steamer on the northern route carries mails fort- nightly to all the i)oits of call ; and in summer as far as Red Bay, Lai) rador, where it connects with the Labrador mail steamer which plies on that coast during the fishing season. The coastal steamer plyini;: on the western route conveys mails to all the ports of call as far as Bonne Bay during the sunnner months and as far as Channel in winter. For the sailings of these steamers see the chapter for tourists. The postal service, rinder the direction of the present energetic Postmaster-general, J. 0. Fraser, Es(j[., has been brought to a .condition of great efficiency, and compares not unfavourably with that of any other British colony. The Post office is litted up with all modern improvements, and the building itself with its various arrangements is creditable to the colony. A parcels post with the Laiited Kingdom, the L'nited States and Canada, is of very great advantage to the whole connnunity. There is also an inland parcels post. Tlie book post, post cards, stamps, post office boxes, branch offices and pillar boxes throughout the city, money orders, letter carriers, delivery, present every facility that could be reasonably desired, and j^rove that this service is mana- ged with a view to meet the Avants of the genei\al public. The improvements introduced in recent years have been of great value. The total number of post offices in the colony is 846. The nunil)ei of postmasters or mistresses being the same. Postal rates are as follows : — Inland postage : letters not over one ounce in weight, three cents ; for city delivery, one cent. 228 COXSTABULAIJY. Newspapers, local and foreign, i'lee, il' under four ounces ; if over tliey are charged at book-rate. Books, i;)amplilets, magazines^ are charged one cent per two ounces. Post cards (local) one cent ; for foreign countries, two cents ; return cards, four cents. Letters — for England, and most European countries, and the United States, 5 cents if not over half ounce in Aveight. To Canada the letter rate is three cents per ounce. During the summer months mails are despatched direct to Liverpool on alternate Saturdays by steamers of the Allan Line, and liy the steamers Ulunda., Mornca and Barcelona when con- venient. CONSTABUI.AEY. The Constabulary consists of an Inspector and General Super- intendent ; a Sub- Inspector ; a clerk and store-keeper ; three head constables ; foui teen sergeants ; six acting sergeants ; ninety- five constables, and nine mounted police. The total force num- bers 129 ; of which 61 constitute the St. Jolin's staff, the rest being in outports. STATIONS. The force is organized, ecpiipped and disciplined in every re- spect similar to the Royal Irish Constabulary ; and properly speaking it is a military as well as a civil force, being tho]"oughly drilled in the use of arms, etc. The force was first organized after the withdrawal of the military in 1871, and is a fine body of men, thoroughly drilled and instructed in their A'arious police duties at Fort Townsend, the head-cpiarters, the best and most efficient men being always selected for the outport stations. LIGHT HOUSES. The coast of the island is well lighted and almost every year witnesses an increase of light-houses and other means of securing the safety of its large sea-faring population. At present there are thirty-nine light-houses and beacons erected and maintained by the Xewfoundland Government, and nine by the Government of Canada. There are three fog-signals, one whistling buoy and one bell buoy at the most dangerous points around the coast, LiciiT HOUSES. 229' luider the Xewfuiiudlauil Goveninieiit, .ind seven fug-signals at the Canadian light-stations. The erection of nearly all these light-houses has l)een the woik of the last lifty years. In 1813 a light-house was placed at Fort Amherst, at the en- trance of St. John's Harliour. Xo further effort was made to light the coast till 1835, when the local Legislature passed an Act for the erection of a light-house at Cape Spear, five miles south of St. John's, and for another at Harbour Grace Island in 1836. Cape Bonavista light-house was built in 1843; Cape Pine in 1851 ; Cape Eace in 1856, (now under the Government of Canada) ; Baccalieu in 1859 ; Cape St. Mary, 1860 ; Fort Point, Trinitv, 1874 ; Carbonear Island, 1878 ; Cape St. Francis, 1867 ; Long Point, Twillingate, 1876 ; Cabot Island, Bonavista Bay, 1880 ; Gull Island, (Cape St. John), 1884 ; Brigus Head, 1885 ; Penguin Island, 1890 ; King'.s Cove Head, 1893. In 1872 a ten-inch steam whistle was placed at Cape Race, and in thick weather is sounded for ten seconds with intervals of silence of fifty seconds in each minute. At Cape Ray, in 1877, a steam fog horn was erected, giving a blast of ten seconds every minute; in 1884 a steam fog horn Avas placed at Cape Bauld, and another at Cai)e Norman in 1890. At Belle Isle, in the Straits of the same name, a fog-bomb was placed in 1891, Avhich fires cotton-powder signals every twenty mnintes from a 2)oint near the irpper light, 400 feet above the sea, in thick weather. In 1877 a Siren trumpet was placed at Cape St. Francis, and at Fort Amherst a three-pound charge from a 32-poiinder gun is discharged every hour and on the stroke of the hour, during daylight or when Cape Spear is enveloped in fog. Here also is placed a mechanical fog horn. At Cape Spear, in 1878, a Com- pressed Air Trumpet was placed ; at Powles' Head (near Tre- passey) a Courtnay automatic whistling biroy was placed ; and in 1890 a bell buoy at Port-au-Bas(|ue. To sustain the light-house and alarm system light-dues arc collected to the extent of one shilling per ton on all vessels en- tering any port or harbour of the Colon}-, except coasting, seal- ing or fishing vessels, but not to be levied more than once a year. 230 BANKS IN XEWFOUNliLANJ), .Sealing and coasting vessels pa}' six pence per ton on I'egistered vessels of forty tons and upwards ; vessels under forty tons jmy fifteen shillings per ton. No greater sum tliiin £25 can be levied in any year on any steamer or vessel entering any port of the ■ Colony ; and no steanu'r plying Ix'twcen Europe and an\' port of Xortli Amt'i'lea, and entering any poi't of the Colony as a port of call, is lialde to pay any light-dues (ir any port charges . except pilotage. A sum of aliout iS45,000 annually is re(|uircd to maintain the .system, of which about §'30,000 ai'e collected as light-dui's. BANKS IN NEWFOUNDLAND. The Savings' Baidc is a Government estaldishmeut, and it is .enacted by statute that "the general revenue of the Colony is liable for all moneys deposited in the bank and all interests payable thereon."' This gix'cs abs(dute security to depositors. Being thus a Colonial institution, the (Governor in Council ap- points the Cashier ami eight go\ernois, hve of whom are selected from the members of the House of Assembly and three from the Legislative Council. Three directors are annually elected by ■ these governors from among themselves, and l)y them the affairs of the bank are superintended. Depositors of any amount over four dollars for a period of not less than six nronths, receive interest , at the rate of three per cent, per annum. By an Act of the Legislature the reserve fuiul is constituted a sinking fund for the li(piidation of the jniblic debt of the Colony, the annual profits . of the Savings' Bank being added to this fund from year to year. Already this fund has Aviped out no less than »5'350,942 of the Public Debt. This has lieen the work of the last fifteen years — • a fact which speaks volumes for the excellent management of the , Savings' Bank. On the 31st December, 1893, the amount of deposits in the Savings' Bank was -S'3,068,288. The profits for the year were $20,337. There are at present 6,620 accounts and the same number of depositors. Tliere are Branch Baidcs in Harbour • Grace, Heart's Content and Placentia. Tluurs of luisiness from 10.30 a. m., to 3 p. m. r.ANKs IX xEWForxr»i.ANr). 231 The fullowiiig tigiux's sliow the drpusits in the Savings' Bank in tlie vi'ais named : — Year. 1878 1879 1880 1881 1882 1883 1884 1885 188P 1887 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 Dejiosits. .^1,092,659 1,134,555 1,219,787 1,291,162 1,429,428 1,544,547 1,660,492 1,787,554 1;749,616 1,860,968 2,028,033 2,184,723 2,292,076 2,460,663 . 3,033,356 . 3,068,288 It \vill lie seen IV(.)ni tlie foregoing tal)le tliat in the L\st sixteen years the deposits in the Savings' Bank have increa.sed by nearly two millions of dollars, or in tlie period named are not very far short of having increased three-fohh As the great majority of depositors belong to tlie middle and working classes, this shows a gratifying advance among them of thrifty, economic hal»its, and a substantial increase in their means of subsistence. It also proves that the Colony is steadily advancing along the path of progress, and that the policy adopted of developing the natural resources of the country, by railway construction and other means, is improving its material condition. There is no better test of progress than the amount deposited in the Savings' Bank from year to year. It must be remembered also that the other two banks have large amounts on deposit at 3 per cent., — probably together as large as those in the Savings' Bank. 232 THE NEWSPAPER PEESS. THE Uj^ION BANK OF NEAVFOUNDLAND. Hours of biisiness from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m. Discount days — Mondays and Tliursdays. The Union Bank is a jn'osperous and Avell-managed institution. It M'as established in 1854. During the first 18 years it paid an average dividend and bonus of IH per cent, per annum. The reserve fund -was tlien so large that the Directors declared a special l)Ouus of 50 per cent., wliich was taken by the share- holders in paid up shares. On this increaseil capital the dividends and lionuses were for many years twenty per cent, per annum, or to original shareholders equivalent to twenty-seven per cent, on their investment. At the close of 1893 the stock of this Bank was $'456,000 in shares of $100 ; Reserve, ^300,000 ; Dividend and bonus for last complete year was 15 per cent. Notes in circulation 31st May, 1893, ^606, 1G2. COMMEKCIAL BANK OF NEWFOUNDLAND. Hours of business from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m. Discount days — Tuesdays and Fridays. The Commercial Bank is also a very prosperous and Avell-conducted establishment. It was established in 1847. At the close of 1893 its Stock Avas $306,000, in shares of $200 ; Reserve, $100,000. The dividend for last complete year wa? 10 per cent. Xotes in circulation 30th June, 1892, §550,717. THE NEWSPAPER PEESS. The following newspaj^ers are published in St. .lolin's •.—The Boyal Grt.^effe— weekly ; The Tiwics— bi-weekly ; The Evening Telegram — daily ; The Evening Herald— dailj ; The Daily Neus — daily, and also a weekly issue ; The Trade Review — fortnightly. The following papers are published elsewhere : — The Harbour Ch-ace Standard — bi-weekly ; The Twillingate ,S'»h— weekly ; The Trinity Record — weekly ; Weekly News, Carbonear — ^veekly. CHAPTER XIY SCENERY. ATTEACTIONS FOR TRAVELLEKS AND TOURISTS. Not many years liavi- elapsed since the disc'overy was nuule by the outside world that Newfoundland contains some of the . grandest and most picturesque scenerj- in all this beautiful Morld. Formerly the idea of associating " the land of fog and codfisli " with the sublime and beautiful in nature would have been scofl'ed' at. All that was known about the island was summed up iu Burns' lines in his " T\\a Dogs'" : — '' Some place far abroad Where sailors gang to tisli for cod." The prevalent idea was that it M-as mostly shrouded by a curtain of fog, and that the interior -was a region of dismal swamps, grim repulsive rocks and strips of land covered at intervals with a stunted forest growth. Gradually, these mistaken ideas were dispelled ; and now every year witnesses an increasing number of visitors from the outside world — tourists in search of the picturesque — travellers, explorers, health-seekers, sportsmen — who carry back with them glowing reports of the wonderful attractions of this "gem of the western world." Now that rail- ways and steamships are affording easy access to its shores, fiords, rivers and lakes, an increasing throng of sucli visitors, especially from the United States and Canada, will find their way to this newly-found land, to revel in its unique scenic beauties, and drink in its health-giving breezes laden with the breath of ocean. No traveller or tourist ever returns disappointed ; but on the contrary they declare " the half lias not been told." LIKENESS TO NORAVAY. Newfoundland has well been named the "Norway of the New AVorld." In many points it strikingly resembles that country 234 SCEXEKY. to wliicli tourists now fiock IVoni all lands. Its doeji fiords, ■wliicli indent the sliores everywhere, gnanled by lol'ty cliffs whose forms are reflected in the clear Ijright waters of the hays, have a reniarkalde resend)lance to tliose of Norway, and are often not less magnificent in their scenery. Many of these great watery ravines, running inland for eighty or ninety miles, and Aixhiljiting a wonderful variety of scenery along the great arms which they project in all directions; and in the islands which stud their hosouis, are on a much grander scale than the fauKnrs Norwegian fiords. The two great liays of Trinity and Placentia, Avhich almost cut the island in two, have no parallel in respect of size, among the fiords of Norway. Then, in their short hut heantiful summers, their l)riglit skies, their exhilarating atmo- sphere, their pojiulation (jf fisliermen, so aliundant in insular peculiarities and primitive characteristics, hidden away in nooks remote from all the outer world, quaint in manners, gracious to strangers, the two countries resemble each other very strikingly. Norway was once as little known as Newfoundland, and its beauties as little appreciated. Now it is the resort, each suni- luer, of many huudreils of travellers, and Ijy its fine system of roads, it has l)e^'n rendered everywhere accessilde. The turn of the Norway of the New Woi-Id lia> come at length. The artist and the photographer have been at work ; and pictorial illustra- tions of its scenery — about which there can be no deception — are making it widely known, and thus the .stream of visitors is swel- ling. Till Sir Walter Scott, in his 2)oetry and romances, raised the curtain, and made known tlie marvellous beauties of the Highlands of Scotland, who thouglit of penetrating those un- known wilds I Now many thousands annually find piire and elevated enjoyment and add to the happiness of their lives by rambling among the romantic scenes of the Scottish Highlands. NEWFOUNDLAND AS A HKAI.TH KESOKT. To tlie millions of the United- States and Canada, in the near future, Newfoundland will become what Norway and the High- lands of Scotland now are to Eurojiean nations. In this sea-girt SCEXEKV. 235' iAe AiiR'i-icans will timl a welcome escape fruiu the burning heat of their own siuuiiiers ; scenery novel and attractive ; and a bracing exhilarating air that imparts new vigour to the frame and sends back the smoke-dried denizens of the great cities with the tide of health coursing through their veins, and life made in- comparably better worth living. As a sanitarium — a pleasant health-resort — Newfoundland is destined to take a high place, when the accommodation and comforts which travellers or in- valids re(|uire are provided — as unquestionably they will be — at the most desiivable places, throughout the island. In fine sum- mer days the heat is never oppressive, and nights are always cool, so that after the day's ramble, sleep comes sweet and refreshing. There is something peculiarly balmy, soothing and yet invigor- ating, in the summer breezes, whether on sea or land, cooling the fevered brain and smoothing the Mrinkled brow of care. After a few weeks near the coast, inhaling the salt-sea breezes and ex- posed to the life-giving sun's rays, the invalid who has come with shattered nerves and fluttering pulse, returns with a new supply of iron in his blood and a sense of well-being which makes it a luxury to live. To escape from the sweltering sum- mer heats of New York, Boston or Chicago, and after a jjleasant sea-voyage, to breathe the jiure air of Terra Nova ; to climb its rocky heights, or wander over its plains and " barrens" bright with wild flowers ; to ply the angler's rod or bend the oar in the clear \\ater of its countless lakes ; or to explore one of the great fiords which stretch their arms far inland, amid the Avildest and grandest scenery, — all this is like passing into a new and better state of existence and enjoying for a time a purer and better life. THE rEOPLK FKIKXDLY. One thing the tourist may safely reckon on is the sensation of novelty. Not only ai-e the aspects of nature, indeed the whole character of the scenery, such as are not to be met with elsewhere, but here the traveller finds himself among a " peculiar i)eople" — the hardy fisher-folk, quaint in their manners, having their own wavs of lookin" at tinners ; — unattected bv the fashions and 236 SCENERY. <:oiiventionalities of tlie outside world ; primitive in tlieir modes of living, kindly, ft^arless, friendly. Tiavellers will find sucli a people alnnidantly interesting and worthy of a careful study. They are not dull, commonplace repetitions of the people among whom travellers are accustomed to meet, but original, quaint, unique. While they are friendly to all comers to their shores, to none do the hospitable Newfoundlanders, of all grades, extend a heartier welcome than to tlie citizens of the Great Repulic. A traveller has only to say "I am an American" and every door is open to him and every hospitality is placeil at his disposal. This kindly feeling towards tlie Stars and Stripes is not caused by any Anti-British sentiment, fur the people are thoroughly loyal to the Crown of Englaml and have no desire to renounce their allegiance to the Mother-Country — but arises mainly from ailmiratiou for the people of the United States and their free institutions, and partly also from the fact that a large number of Xewfoundlanders have, from time to time, found a home in the Western Republic, aird tlius there is a con- stantly increasing communication between this island and the States. Tlie mails from the United States are larger than i'rom any other country ; and a largo number of families have re- jDresentatives or connections living under " the Star-Sj)angletl Banner." To many of the young generation the United States is the land of j^romise. A large amount of Ijusiness lies with the States, and the commercial union is steadily extending. Thus, among the people, Americans lind themselves thoroughly at home, not only in the capital but throughout the island. PROFESSOR ALBERT BICKMORE. A distinguished American professor — Albert S. Bickmore — of the American ^luseum of Natural Histoi-y, New York, spent a feAv weeks, in 1891, in Newfoundland and on the coast of Lalirador. He said, after his extensive toiir, " In regard to beauty and grandeur of scenery, health-giving climate and gen- eral attractiveness for those Avhose energies have been lowered by city life, and who seek to recuperate, few countries could surpass SCENERY. 237 Newfounillaud. But it is not sufficiently known. Few know even the way of reaching it. A guide-book setting forth its at- tractions, should be published, giving such information as tourists require in order to see the country to advantage. ]\Iany hun- dreds of Americans would every year find their way here were the country only known. In the future, if proper steps are taken, Newfoundland may become one of the most popular sum- ■mev resorts. In addition to the scenery and pure air, you have salmon and trout-fishing to an unlimited extent ; and in the fall snipe, curlew, and ptarmigan shooting, as well as deer-stalking. Boating on the lakes, driving or walking over your breezy hills ; pic-nicing in such places as Petty Harbour, Middle Cove or Topsail ; sketching or pliotographing your rare scenery, drink- ing in the oxygen of an atmosphere wliich at every breath quickens the jiulses and puts colour in the cheek — what more .could the heart of man or woman tourist ask for ?" PROFESSOR HYATT'S EXPERIENCE, Another eminent scientific man, — Professor Hyatt, of Boston, — spent the summer of 1885 on the West coast of the island. With a numlier of other scientists, he was engaged in collecting fossils and studying the geology of the district. He wrote of his excursion in the following terms : — " Certainly one can rarely see in this world more remarkable and picturesque villages than those of Burin, Burgeo and Rose Blanche. The eff"ect of the pond-like ]iarl)ours, surrounded l)y rugged hills, often of con- siderable height, is rendered exceedingly 2>leasing, often lovely, by the habit of Ijuilding the cottages anj^where and everywhere, according to the fancy or fortune of the owner. Burgeo was especially remarkable, and an artist could spend many summers on this coast and become its pictorial historian with great gain to himself." The Professor found Port-au-Port a geological paradise, rare and curious fossils being abundant. " I have one endoceras" he wrote " two feet six inches long and with the living chambers nearly perfect — one of the finest things I have ever seen in any collection, not even excepting Hall's or Barrande's. AVo also 238 SCEXKRY. foxind almndance of fossils at Ingoniacliois Bay, -where tlie fossil cephalopoils are marvellous in size and ninnlier. "We have revelled for ten days with hammer and chisel in digging out these." HIS OPIXIOXS OF THK SCEXJERY. In regard to the weather and scenery on the West Coast the Professor said : — " The Aveather favoured us while in Xewfound- land. "We were not detained by fogs and had very few adverse winds. TliP. scenery irres- siLperh, and has made all the countries we have passed through since secHi tame cuul tm2)ictHresque, except indeed the steej) mountainous cliffs of Cape North and the vicinity, in Cape Breton. I never expect to yet so much pleasure comhined v:ith intellectual profit out of any fat v,re trip. Port-au- Port is a paradise for the artist as well as for the geologist ; and the same may be said of Bonne Baj^ and Bay of Islands. From Cape Ray to St. John's Island, for the space of 250 miles on the western coast of Xewfoundland, the principal mountain ranges whose general course is north-east south-west, approach the sea more or less closely. They are so arranged that they present their ends to the sea on the south coast, and are seen more from the side on the west coast. From St. George's Bay to St. John's Island, on the western coast, they form a series of steep cliffs, cones and domes, which also greatly enhance the beauty of the deep and branching fiords of Bay of Islands and Bonne Bay. The climate, vegetation and lovely harbours made the trip along this part of the route a series of delightful surprises." GEOLOGIZING. At the close of his trip at Anse-au-Loup, the Professor M-rote : "The collection now on board contains many large and remark- able specimens of the fossils of the Quebec group, more especially the cephalopods. Some of them are certainly unifpie and could not be re-placed from the same localities. We have used a method of cutting out which has enabled us to remove slabs two and three feet long and six inches to a foot broad from the face of the solid rock. "We have often failed in getting specimens of larce size out whole ; but in many cases Ave have entire ortho scEXEr.v 239 ceratites, piloceratite?;, eiidoceratites ami ormoceratites of Inige size, from a foot to over two feet in lengtli. The coiled nauta- loids have also been collected in considerable numljers ; and the materials on hand will enable me to work out many obscure points in the structure and relations of these forms. Our collec- tions are also rich in other fossils wliicli we have collected as opportunity served." One of the Professor]s party took photo- graphic views of the most striking scenery as they passed along the coast. These form a series of most beautiful jiictures of scenes which wei-e never before photographed. COM3IANDER KENNEDY, K. N. Captain Kennedy, R. X., commander of H. M. S. DnnJ, who spent several years in Xewfoundland engaged in the Fisheries' Protection Service, and who knows the island thoroughly, piib- lished aboiit ten years ago " Sporting Notes on Newfoundland." The following extract from this interesting work will show liis opinion of the climate and scenery : — " To one who, like the writer, has had the opportunity of seeing the country, of ming- ling with its Avarm-hearted inhabitants, of penetrating into the vast and almost unknow n interior in quest of sport, Newfound- land presents a deeply interesting aspect, whether it be from a spoiling, an artistic or a social point of view." THE WEATHEK. " The fogs on the east and south coast seldom if ever penetrate inland ; and I have no hesitation in saying that for four or five months in the year, nameh , from June to October, inclusive, the climate is far superior to that of Great Britain, while the winters are undoubtedly milder than those of Nova Scotia, Canada or New Brunswick. During the months of July, August, September, and part of October, the weather is magnificent, the thermometer ranging occasionally as high as 85'. At this time the country presents a most beautiful appearance, resembling in parts the Highlands of Scotland. The mountains are clothed to their tops with many kinds of woods, conspicuoiis among which are the fir,- tlie pine, maj)le, birch and hazel. The " barrens " are covered ■240 SCEXFEY. ■witli a rich carpet of mo^s of every shade and colour, and abound in all sorts of wild berries, pleasing both to the eye and taste. The l^anks of the rivers are also at this time fringed with wild stra^^•berries, raspberries, currants, blue-berries, and adorned with many kinds of lovely ferns and wild flowers ; while foaming tor- rents and tumbling cascades complete a jjicture delightful to the .eye of the artist and the salmon-fisher. The scenery of the south .coast is of the grandest description ; deep gorges in the coast-line lead through narrow entrances, with precipitous clifl's on either hand, to magnificent harbours ^^■llere the navies of Europe may float secure from every gale.'' " In the interior of the islands .are thousands, aye, millions of acres of good land, suitable for growing crojis, or raising cattle or sheep, as shown by the mag- nificent wild grass which grows in all the swamps, and upon which the deer feed unmolested, save when the solitary hunter intrudes upon their sanctuary.'' "As regards salubrity of cli- mate, Xewfoundland has no equal. On our visits round the .coast the doctor's duties were al^solutely nil.'' "I believe that few countries have such advantages as are possessed by New- foundland, with her magnificent harbours and her boundless stores of wealth ; but no country lias ever yet progressed without railroads, or even roads. With the completion of the railway to Hall's Bay and the probability of its ultimate extension to the west coast ; with copper mines in full blast along her shores, and .other industries in like activity, the proud boast of every New- foundlander, " This Newfoundland of Ours," will be no idle one, and tlie sovereignty of the island will be assured, not only in name but in reality." (The foregoing was written eleven years ago. Captain Kennedy's anticipations are receiving rapid reali- zation.) AX ARCHBISHOP'S OPINION. Tlie late Roman Catholic Archbishop of Halifax, N. S., — a gentleman of high attainments and culture — paid a visit ta Newfixmdland some years ago. On his return he published an account of his trip in which he spoke in rapturous terms of the .country, its scenery and its people. The following are the open- SC'EXEKY. 241 ing paragraphs of his paper : — " It is strange how ignorant we .often are of the beauties and attractions of places near our shores, while thoroughly conversant witli the lesser grandeur of historic lands far away. Thousands from the United States and many from Canada yearly Hock to Europe, and write rapturous ac- counts of the scenes over whicli poetiy or fiction lias thrown a glamour. For a trifling outlay, and without the discomforts of a long sea voyage, they could, by visiting Newfoundland, enjt)y a .cool and healthy summer, and revel in all the wild grandeur of Alpine scenery, or dream away the hours by lakes and bays compared with which Killarney and Loch Katrine are but tame and uninviting pools. COUNTRY EASY OF ACCE.SS. " It Avas my good fortune to pay a short visit to that romantic land, and to enjoy tlie hospitality of its most hospitable people. Tlie countiy is now easy of access, either by the Allan steamers plying Ijetween Baltimore, Halifax and St. John's ; or by boats from Montreal, Pictou and Charlottetown, or by those of a line between New York and St. John's. By any of these routes you .can enjoy just a taste of the great Atlantic, and then you find yourself in a land where the virgin forest still fringes the nolilest bays in the worhl ; where codfi.sh actually swim within a yard .of the shore, and salmon bask on the ledges of secluded inlets. Yet it must not be tliought that the country is a howling wild- .erncss, devoid alike of civilizing influences and local refinement. You have all tliesu ; Ijut tlie populatfon is so small compared with the vast extent of the island, that primitive nature still holds sway over hundreds (jf miles of countiy." THE "LONDON TI3IES" ON NEWFOUNDLAND. Some fourteen years ago, when Newfoundland was less known than at present, and its attractions for tourists and travellers less favourably presented, tlie London Times, after a visit to the island of one of its ablest correspondents, in a leading article, ga\-e utterance to some kindly words regarding the ohlest of England's colonial brood. Here are a few extracts: — "An 242 SCENERY. Englishman from Middlesex or Yorkshire, set down in Kew-- foundland, wouhl, for the method of thought and the ^vay of regarding things which he would discover in those aboiit him, be conscious of little difference between the society he had left and that on which he had been engrafted. It is to be regretted tliat more from these shores do not make the experiment, at any rate for a time. Newfoundlanders can doiibtless exist very comfortably without the constant intercoui'se of Englishmen. But they not unnaturally take a little umbrage at being set down, in ])ure ignorance, through being left out of the track of British tourists, as a po])ulation resembling, in locality and habits, the Esqui- maux. Canada and the Cape and Natal, and even the seques- tered Shetlands, have each, for its especial class of taste and imagination, its traits of peculiar interest and fascination. They have at all times had their delights and graces remarked. Xew-- foundland alone has been left to the cliance of one or another of its people caring to expatiate on its merits and being so impor- tunate or skilliil as to gain an audience. Were but a single trial given, to borrow the language of advertisers, the British public is assured that Newfoundland would soon become a favoured resort. It is guarded l\v as many terrors and obstructions as if it Avere the cave of a dragon and his treasure. Yet behind the barrier of cloud and ice lies a land of pleasant airs and I'adiant sunshine. There are woods and meadows and flowers. There are cathedrals, concert rooms and libraries, with all the luxury attendant u^^on dwellers in villas. * -i'r * -5^ -H- -X- " Newfoundland as a Colony is dwarfed liy its relation to two continents as a central fish-market. For itself it has promising mines which would reward capital an;l enterprise, Avere not liotli monopolized by tlie hereditary jtursuit. It has fertile belts Avhicli Avill bear Avheat in i>rofusi()n. It has vast expanses of practicable pastures. EaihA^ays Avould o])en up tracts of agri- cultural territory Avhich are noAv presumed to be irreclaimalde marshes and Avildernesses. In the meantime there is hunting a* SCEXEKY. 243 ^00(1 as in the great American Nortli-We.st, without the distance to travel, and with hospitality and friendly Englisli fellow-citizens to welcome the sportsman. Wliat is wanted is just a little sun- shine and countenance fi-om the Mother Country, to stir the islanders themselves to develop Newfoundland for Xewfound- landers. Life is easy yet not too easy. Nature affords a sutH- ciency of opportunities without eueivating the population by doing its ^\•ork herself. Travellers who have the courage to penetrate the veil of fog and winter, and tlie more obstinate barrier (jf discouraging presumption of perennial gloom, will iliscover that life is well woilli living among Newfoundland balsam jioplars ; and that the oldest English Colony has with .age only deepened and intensified its English characteristics." After fourteen years, it is pleasant to know that the antici- pations of the great Englisli journal have been iully veritieil. Newfoundland, every year, attracts greater attention and the stream of travellers di-awn to its shores is constantly swcdling. The railways built and in course of construction will greatly in- .crease among the <iutsidc world the desire to know more ot this mis-known country, and to make acquaintance with its novel, 2">ictures([ne scenery. Its coast scenery is of course better known than that of the interior. Many voyagers have seen, in passing, its dark frowning clitfs, its miles on miles uf rocky walls, three to four hundred feet in height, its l)old inomontories and head- lamls, seulptui-ed into grim fantastic forms l)y the blows of At- lantic billows — shapes massive and awe-inspiring in their stern grandeur. These external lamparts engaged in ceaseless conffict with the watery battalions which are ever rushing on them, are apt at first sight to be repellant to the traveller. But \\ithin these rockj'' outworks, up the great fiords, with their countless branches, along the banks of the livers and brooks, among the rolling hills and great barrens are scenes of rarest 1)eauty, and over all a sky blue and serene as that of Italy and more varied in its changing aspects. No element of nature's sub- limity and beauty is wanting. In drives or rambles along the shores of bays, the roads now scale the lofty hills, then dip 244 SCENERY. down into silent dells, and ever and anon break ont to the sea through Avood-skirted ravines. Tliere, in the distance, are the glittering icebergs sailing majestically past ; or here, aground in some quiet cove, lies one of the white wanderers, the waves gently laving its sides, while cascades are pouring from its top as it melts under the tierce rays of the summer's sun. Every- where the eye is greeted with some new, fantastic form of clitt, or rich coloirring of jjorj^hyry rock ; while the softness of deli- cate mosses contrasts at intervals with the ruggedness of bare rocks on which the gnawing tooth of time has been oi^erating for countless ages. At almost every turn of the I'oad little gem-like lakes Hash into view, their waters clear as crystal, many of theui with moss-clad islets sleeping in their bosoms. Such a drive, in a bright summer's day, around these great sea-arms, is some- thin" to be remembered till the close of life. CHAPTER XY. DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. HOIV TO SEE THE COUNTRY— ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Xewfocxdlaxd is now easy of access to the outside Morld, whetlier from the United States, Canada or Europe. Tliret fine steamers of the AHan Line — the Corean, Siberian and Carthaginian — under contract with tlie Government for the conveyance of mails — ply between Glasgow, Liverpool, and Philadelphia, call- ing on their westward trips, fortnightly, at St. John's and Hali- fax, ami on their eastward trips at St. John's only. Fares from Liverpool to St. John's — saloon, ^48; second cabin, ^28-30; steerage, -§19-20 ; from St. John's to Halifax, ^20. They leave Liverpool and Philadelphia fortnightly. The accommodation for passengers on board the Allan steamers is excellent. The average pa.ssage from Liverpool to St. Jolin's is seven days. Messrs. Shea & Co., Agents in St. John's ; Allan & Co., Liver- l^ool. For list of sailing see advertising pages. CANADIAN AND NEWFOUNDLAND STEAMSHIP CO. The steamers of Canadian and Nev:foundland Stearasliip Co. also sail between Liverpool and Halifax, calling at St. John's. A steamer of this line leaves Liverpool and Haliftix every ten days, touching at St. John's on both the outward and liomeM-ard trips. The Moruca, Barcelona and Ulunda are excellent steamers, and every attention is paid to the comfort of passengers. Fares — saloon, from Liverpool to St. John's, $48 ; from St. John's to Halifax, saloon, $15 ; steerage, $9. Agents — St. John's, J. & W. Pitts ; Liverpool, J. J. Langley, Bank Chambers, Cook Street ; London, Tlios. Ronaldson & Co., 37 Leaden Hall St. ; Glasgow, Donaldson Bros., 165 St. Vincent Street ; Halifax, James Hall, P.O. box 215. These steamers usuailv reach St. John's from 246 DIKECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. Liverpool iii seven or eight daj-s, and Halifax in two days from St. John's. They carry mails. RED CROSS LINE. The steamers ot" this line — the Portia and Stflna — ply between New York and St. John's, calling at Halifax each trij). The usual passage from New York to St. John's is five to hve and a half days, Avitli a "stop-over" of a day or lialf a day at Halilax. They sail every ten days. Fares: from New York to St. John's, saloon ^34, steerage §18 ; from St. John's to Halifax, saloon f 18 ; steerage S9. Agents in St. John's, Harvey & Co.; in Halifax, Corbett & Co.; in New York, Bowring & Archibald, 9 Stone St. They usually carry mails lietween Halifax and St. John's. The %/c/rt, in tlie summer season, goes to Pilley's Island (280 miles from St. Jolm's) tor a cargo of ore, taking passengers who wish to make the round trip, which usually is very pleasant and enables them to see an interesting part of the coast scenery. The Portia does not go further than St. John's. The Sijlvia calls at St. John's on her return from Pilley's Island. The Red Cross steamers are favouiites with the travelling public, and are well managed. ST. JOHN'S AND MONTREAL. From Montreal St. John's is reache<l in four days (1070 miles) Ijy steamers of the Black Diamond Line — P)Oimrida and Cohan — sailing fortnightly. Tliey are safe and comfortable. Fares: $30 saloon, $15 steerage. Agents— St. John's, Harvey & Co.; Montreal, Kingman, Brown & Co., 14 Palais Royal. Also by steamers of the Ross Line — Thames^ Gredhinil>< and i-'o/i/(o— sailing weekly from Montreal and St. John's during the season, from April till the close of navigation. Fares, ^25 saloon. The S. S. Tiher also plies between Montreal and Saint John's. Agents for all four, St. John's, Shea & Co.; Montreal, •Dobell & Co. The accommodation for passengers is fairly good. STEAMERS ST. PIERRE AND HARLAW — WESTERN COAST. The s. s. St. Pierre plies between Halifax, Sydney, (C. B.), (Channel and Placentia, calling at Trepassey, St. Mary's, Placen- DiiiECTioxs Foi; ToriJisTS. L'47 :tiii, Burin, St. Liiwrciice', Laiualiiic, Fortune, (Tmiul l^ank, St. ..TacquL's ami Belloiaiu alternately ; Harl)or Briton, (laultois, Hermitage Cove and Puslitlirougli alternately ; Baniea, Burgeo, La Poile, Rose Blanche, Channel, Bonne Bay. The St. Pierre .also touches at the port of St. Pierre, Ijoth going from and le- turning to Halifax. Her sailings are fortnightly. She carries mails. The s. s. Harhtir plies Ix'tweeii Halifa.v and the principal wes- ■tern ports of Newfoundland, making fortnightly tj'i[)s. Both the St. I'icrrc and the Harluv are well fitted up, .safe and .comfortalile. Travellers s])eak in high terms of both. Tourists who wish to see the magnificent scenery of the western coast and .enjoy its didicions summer, would find it advantageous to take ,eithei of these hoats at Halifa.x, and they will thus get a glimpse ,of St. Pieri'e and of the nohle sceuci-y of St, CJeorge's Bay, Bay ,of Islands and Bonne Bay. This is now liecoming a favourite route, and is i-apturou.sly spoken of hy tliose who have taken the ^round trip. When the new railway is completed to Bay of Islands, which \\\]\ jirobaldy lie the case hy the end of ■ 1894, travellers wIk.i voyage liy these boats can land at Bay of Islands, .and take the railway for Si. John's, making a stay at any of the intermediate jilaces ; and thus greatly enhance the pleasures of their tiip, and enjoy any amount of trout and .salmon tl.shing, or .shooting in the proper season. (See chapter on Boads and Rail- Avays. CO.V.STAL STK.VMKK.S. The steamers (ininil Ldli' and Vlnjinia. Lub/, of the Xew- foundland Coastal Co., leave St. John'* fortnightly, one taking •the southern and western route to Bonne Bay and calling at intermediate ports to laud and receive mails and jiasseiigers ; the .other running north to Battle Harbour, Labrador, thei-e connect- ing with the Labi-ador mail steamer, and calling at all inter- mediate ports to land and receive mails and pas.sengers. These steamers are strongly built, well oHicered, and the food ami .accommodation are very gooiL (For their sailings see advertise- 24S DIRECTIONS FOi; TOUmSTS, meiit at the end of this vohuue ; also trips liy them suhseqnently given.) ST. JOHN'S— FINE KNTKAMCE TO ITS HAKBOUK. For pictures(j^ueness of situation tliere is no otlier city in North America to compare with St. J(jlin's, tlie capital of the island. All travellers who visit it admire the striking ai)proacli to the harltour, and the fine view on entering its waters. As tlie voyager, coming northward from Cape Race, sails along the grim,- iron-bound coast wliose rocks, two to four hundred feet high, fling back in defiance the great Atlantic rollers, the steamer suddeidy turns her prow shoreward as if to dash herself againt^t the dark cliffs. In a few minutes a nariow opening in the rocky wall is seen, as if, by some convulsion of nature, the great ram- part had been rent asunder and the sea liad rushed in. As tlie vessel glides through this cleft the ii-avdler looks up, not with- out a touch of awe, at the great cliffs of dark red sandstone piled in broken masses on a foundation of gray slate rock. On liis right he sees an almost perpendicular precipice, 300 feet in height, above which rises, with almost equal steepness, the crest of Signal Hill, 520 fpet above tlie level of the sea, on which stands the "Block House" for signalling vessels as they approach the harbour. On the left, the rugged hill attains a height of 600' feet. From its base a rocky promontory juts out, forming the entrance of the Narrows on one side. On the summit of this projection is Fort Amherst Light-house, where is heard tlie hoarse music of the restless Atlantic whose waves break on the rocks lieneath. The scene is grand and impressi\-e. THE NAllKOWS. Formerly batteries, armed witli ibrmidable Armstrong guns, rose one over the other, on the projecting shoulders and narrow platforms of the surrounding clilfs ; but years ago the small garrison was withdrawn, and the cannon removed. The Nar- rows, or channel leading to the harbour, is nearly half a mile in length ; and it is not till two-thirds of it are passed that the city itself opens to view. At the termination of the Narrows the DIHECTIONS FOR TOUIUSTS. 249 harbour trends suildeuly to tlie west, thus rumpletely shutting out the swell iVdui the ocean. In ten minutes at'ter leaving the Atlantic the steamer is saf'el\' moored at the wharf, in the still waters of a perfectly land-locked harhour. Ve-sels of the largest tonnage can enter at all ])eriods of the tide, the rise of whicli does not exceed four feet. Between Signal Hill and Fort Am- herst, at the entrance, the Narrows are al)0ut 1,400 feet in width ; but at th.e nan-owest jiart Ijetween Pancake and Chain Rocks, the channel is not more than 600 feet Avide. The har- bour is al)out a mile in length, and half a mile in width. It is deep with a mud bottom, and in the centre it is said to be 90 feet in depth. Of its size, it would be ditiicidt to tind a finer harliour, STKEKTS, ETC. The city is Imilt on the northern side of the harbour, on a site which coidd hardly be surpassed. From the water's edge the ground rises with a slope till the summit is reached, where there is a large level space. Along the face of this slo})e the main streets run, and the city is rapidly extending itself in all directions. An excellent system of sewerage is laid out, which- ■when completed will render the sanitary condition of the city superior to that of any other jau the Atlantic seaboard. Already it is a very healthy city. Three principal streets — Water, Dusk- worth and Gower Streets — run parallel with the harbour and with one another, and are intersected by a number of cross- streets, running nortli and south. The former follow the sinu- osities of the harliour, so that they are irregular and winding. The new part built since the great fire of 1892 is considerably improved, and the large shops and stores in the eastern half of Water Street are a great advance on those destroyed liy the tire. Duckworth Street has also been better laid out ami much improved. HOUSES, VILLAS, ETC. On the south side of the harbour the hills spring so aliruptly from the water that little more than a sufficient site for a range of warehouses and oil factories could be scooped out. From the '2o0 DIIiECTIOXS FOl! TOUKLSTS \vrtU'rf< of the liarliour the city jireseiits a fine aiipeaniiK.'e, cliiub- iiig tliL' slope of the hill which i.s crowned b\ the Rouiau Catliolic 'Cathedi'al, a noble structure which overlook.s tlie whole. There is ample space in every direction for expansion. Ali'eady the tendency is to build dwelling houses in the suburbs, or on the summits of the rising gi-ounds overlooking the harlwui', and to leave the large stores and shops solely for. business ])uri)oses, in- stead of having as formerly residences over them. Many of the new houses erected outside the city on the higher giounds are ■of a superior descrijition, and these as they increase will form s(piares and crescents, and become the fashionable quarters. The leading roads in all dii'cctions, to the distance of two mile.s from the city, are getting lined with handsome villas, the resi- <lences of the wealthier classes. Water Street, the principal business street, i)resents a very substantial appearance, the liouses being of stone oi- brick. The shops, stoi'es and counting- houses occai)y the ground tloors, while some of the merchants .and many of the slio])-kee[)ers still reside in the upper stoi'evs. Fish-stores and other warehouses jiroject from the rt^ar on the side next the harbour. Many of the shops, especially in the re- cently re-built part of rVater Stittt, present a \eiy handsome appearance, and comjiare not unfavourably with similar estab- lishments in the large cities of Canada and the United States, In other [»arts of the city the bulk of the houses are built of "wood, anil many of the streets are exceedingly dingy and com- monplace. VUliE WATEK— FIKE BRIGADE. St. Jolm's has the innnense advantage of possessing an abun- <lant supply of the purest water which is obtained tVom Windsor Lake, four and a-half miles from the city and standing at a lieight of 4:00 feet aliove the sea-level. The pressure is thus so great that water can be thrown frbm the hydrants to a height of fifty feet, or 150 feet ahnig a street. Taught by sad experience, the ( Jovernment and Muni(,'i])al Council are now organizing a fire bi'igade of a liighly etticient m'der, equipped with all modern DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS 251 improveiiieuts, wliicli will render the recurrence of a great firCy like that of 1846 or 1892, an improliable event. DISTANC-ES FROM OTHER CITIES. The city is situated on the east side of the peninsula of Avalon,. which presents a wide frontage to the sea, and on tla- portion of American land Avhich approaches nearest to the Olil World. It is 60 miles north of Cajje Race ; 600 miles from Halifax ; 1,170' miles from Montreal; 1200 miles from New York; and 1700 miles from Queenstown — being 1,000 miles neai'er it than New York- It is in 47° 33' 33" N. latitude, and 52' 4.")' 10' W. longitudt^. OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN ST. .JOHN'S WORTHY THE ATTENTION OF TOURISTS AN1> VISITORS. A walk along Water sti'eet, the main Imsiness thcronghfarey about a mile in length, will enalde a strangei' to form an idea of the style of business and the mode of conducting it. Handsome shop-fronts, tastefully " dressed " and exliilnting all kinds of fancy goods and more substantial articles, ai'e everywhere con- spicuous. The visitor will be specially struck with tlie lieauty and soliditv of the new l>lorks erected since the tiiv — such as Baird's Building ; Marshall and Rodger's ; Ayre and kSous ; (Gar- land's ; Goodfellow's Buildings. These, in architecture and gene- ral arrangements, do not suffer by compaiison with similar estab- lishments in any other city of the sauie size. The thronged shops, crowded streets, and general liustle and activity show that a large business is done heiv. Tliis is especially the ca.se in the early summer and in the Fall. FISH STORES, ETC. A glance at one of the large tish-stoi'es — such as Baine .Tohn- stone's. Job's, Monroe's or Tliorl>urn and Tessier's — is interesting as showing how tlie dried cod-fish are sorteil, stacked in huge piles, and made u]) in " drums" for foreign markets. To see the process of manufacturing the fish-oils and the complicated machi- nery used, it is necessary to cross tlie harbour in a boat, and walk through one of the great oil-factories on the South Side, where the seal oil is refined and jirepared ibr market. lO'l DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. OFFICES— MUSEUM. In the Excliange Building, netxr the foot of McBj'ide's Hill, the Anglo-American Telegraph Co. ha\e recently opened a new office Avhicli is well arranged and creditable to the Company. Hours of business from 8.30 a. m to 9 p. m. There is a branch office in the eastern end of the city, and also in the Post office. The Post office, already referred to, is a fine building towards the western eml of Water street. Its arrangements for the ac- commodation of the public are all that could be desired. The upper portion of it is devoted to the purposes of a Public Museum Avhicli will well re^jay a virsit. Here are arranged specimens of all the minerals and coal found in the island, together with spe- cimens of the Iniilding-stone, marbles, granites, etc., and of the timber. The geologist can here study the fo.ssils found in the various formations of the country which are named and classi- fied. The antiquarian will find here a most interesting collec- tion of tlie relics of the extinct aboriginal mliabitants of the island. Here are .skulls, bones, almost entire skeletons of the unfortunate lost tribes of Beothiks. The skeleton of a boy found in a grave in Pilley's Island, with the skin and nails iierfectly l^reserved, is regarded as a great curiosity. Their stone imple- ments, arrow-heads, gouges, hatchets, etc., are objects of much interest. Local objects of natural history are in great profusion — such as stutfed specimens of caribou, bears, seals, birds, fishes. There is also a collection of the mollusca of the island. Here too is preserved an arm of the now celebrated " Devil Fish" or gigantic Cuttle Fish — named after its discoverer, the present Avriter, Archefuthis Harveyi. When first discovered, in 1873, it made a sensation in the scientific world. Its body was ten feet in length, and its longest arms each thirty feet. (For full particu- lars of this Giant Cuttle see '■'■Hatton and Harv(nJA Xewfoundland," or article " Newfoumlland" in the Em-ycloprcdui Britannica.) A forenoon spent in the Museum will well reward the tourist. WKY DOCK. Continuing the walk westward along Water Street, the Long 3i'idge is reached, near the head of the haibour, where is the DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 2o6 •Dry Dock, built of wood and oi)ene;l in 1884. It is 600 feet long, 83 feet broad, with a depth of 25 feet on its sill at low water. It i.s thus able to accommodate all but the very largest steamers atioat. It cost $550,000. LUXATIC ASYLUM. Three uiilfs further out, on the "Waterford Bridge Road, is the Lunatic Asylum, a handsome structure, beautifully situated and .excellently managed. Visitors are admitted by an order from the doctors in charge of the institution. The walk or drive to it along the Castor's Valley, as the little brook is called, is very pleasant. Victoria Park is passed on the right. CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL. There are many more objects of interest in the city. The imost conspicuous building is the Roman Catholic Cathedral, which occu])ies a commanding site on the summit of the hill on which the city is built. It is in the form of a Latin Cross, 237 feet in length, and 180 fent wide across the transepts, with two towers 138 feet in height. It is richly ornamented with statuary, the iinest being " The Dead Christ," by Hogan, under the altar, and tliose of St. .Jolm the Baptist and of the Virgin, in front of the Cathedral. The view from the Cathedral grounds is specially fine. Adjacent to it are the Bishoj)'s Palace, Saint Bonaventure's College and a Convent. The whole group of buihlings cost about $500,000. The general appearance is very fine. CHURCH OF EXGLAXD CATHEDRAL. The Church of England Cathedral, about half way up the slope, will wlieu completed be one of the finest ecclesiastical buildings in British America. It was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, ami is in the early English style. Unfortunately it was terribly injured in the great fire of 1892, only the bare walls Ijeing left. The walls of the transept were not seriously injured "but the arches were ruined. This portion of the Cathedral has Xiow been roofed and the arches i-e.^tored, and it soon will be 254 DIKECTIONS FOR TOUDLSTr^. available for services : l)ut the nave -wliich snffereil more is stilf in ruins. Its entire restoriitiun is most desirable. On Military Eoad running along tlie crest of the ridge stands- the Colonial Building or House of Parliament, containing cham- bers for the two branches of the Legislature, and most of the public offices. It is 110 feet long and 85 feet wide and was Iniilt in 1847 at a cost of £100,000. Its Ionic imrtico is borne by six massive columns, 30 feet high. Near it is Government House, an unpretentious but substantial and comfortaljle abode, Avhere the representative of Royalty reside.s. It is surrounded by well- kejjt grounds. The Imjierial Government erected it in 1828 at a cost of £30,000. ATHEN^UM AND OTHEK BUILDINGS. The Atheuieum was a handsome building near tlie Union Bank in Duckworth Street. It was totally destroyed, with its fine public library, music hall, reading room and the Savings' Bank in the tire of 1892, and is now in ruins, awaiting restoration. A line building for the accommodation of the Savings' Bank is to- be erected opposite the Athenanun, on tlie site of St. Andrew's Presbyteiian Cliurcli which is in course of re-erection on a moi-e commanding site higher nji the slope, where the Masonic Temple stood fjcfore the fire. The last named building is to occupy a fine site a little above the new Savings' Bank. The Athenanini reading-room and library are in Tobin's Building toward the eastern end of Duckworth Street. They are open to stranger.'? on the introduction of a mend)er. The I'enitentiary, a solid granite building, and the Public Hospital, an excellent institu- tion remarkably well cared for, are on the Quidi Tidi road, on the outskirts of the city. Both w ill repay a visit. INDUSTRIES. Altliough the chief business interests of St. John's are in the exportation of the grand staple, the codfish, and its seal-oil re- fineries, yet in recent years there has been a wonderful develop-- ment of local industries of various kinds. Tliere is now a large' and well-e(pupped Bope Walk at Mundy Pond, half a mile from^ DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. ZiUY the city, -whicli gives employment to al)OiTt 400 persons, and is equal in all respects to any other estahlishment of the kintl in British Ameiica or the United States. There are also thi-ee iron foumlries, nail foundry, machine shops, railway woi'k-shops, two' 1)iscuit hakeries of a superior description, hreweries, taujieries, furniture, tohacco, soap and l)utterine factories — all of which give employment to a lai-ge numher of hands. NATIVE BEItKIES. One recently introduced native industry deserves special men-' tion — the preserving, on a large scale, for exportation, of the delicious wild berries -which grow in uidimited quantities all over the island. Only one tirni has yet taken a pi'ominent part in this new and jti^omising industry — Mr. W. H. Davidson, Grocer, Water Street, to wlium the credit of introducing it belongs. If generally carried out, thousands of idle hands — especially women and young ^Jcr.'^ons, — might be profitably en- gaged in gathering the wild .straw-berries, rasp-beri'ies, capillaire, partridge-berries, bake-fipples, "hurt/'' oi' 1 due-berries, which cover hundreds of thousands of acres and can be gathered in the vicinity of every settleiuent. Tlie article produced by Mr. Davidson is delicious. Some two years ago he sent a jjackage of these i^reserved berries to the Queen who was pleased to accept the .same, and to expres.s her great satisfactiim witli the contents,- To make this industry a success, a drawback on the sugar used should be allowed liy tlie Government, as the duty on that article is nearly 100 per cent., greatly interfering with the success of such an enterpiise. DRIVES AND AVALK.S IN THP: VICINITY OF .ST. JOHN'S, By making St. John's headquarters, the tourist can enjoy many delightful excursions by vehicle, or for short distances on foot. Cabs can Iil- hired fcyi' the day or half day at the rate of four dollars per day, or eighty cents per houi". Shoit drives through the city cost from thirty to fifty cents, according to dis-- tance. There are numerous lakes an<l ponds at moderate dis-- tances from the citv where excellent trout fishing can l)e had;- 256 DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. but there is no good salmon stream nearer tljan Salmonier, at a distance of fifty miles. It is readied l)y rail to Holyrood, thence by vehicle. In the season the salmon fishing there is ex- cellent. • VIKAV FK03I SIGNAL, HILL. All visitors sjjcedily find their way to the top of Signal Hill overlooking the narrows, where a magnificent View is obtained. It can be reached bj^ a walk of half an hour, or Ijy a short car- riage drive. The road leading to it starts from the eastern end of Duckworth Street. At the height of 350 feet two small and deep lakes are passed. When the summit is reached, if the day be clear, a noble view is enjoyed. On the one side is the broad Atlantic "with all its terror and mystery" — not a rock or shoal in the gieat expanse till the Irish coast is reached. Looking northward we see Svnar Loaf, Loijic Baif, TorJinij Hmd and tlie serrated range of hills on tlie south side of Conception Bay. The dark per2)endicular sea-wall, A\ith numerous indentations, runs up to Cape St. Francis. A tine sweep of country, dotted with numerous glittering lakelets and farm-houses and fringed witli sombre groves of fir, stretches away to the noi'th-west. The great chasm which forms the entrance to tlie harljour is seen below, guarded by precipitous rock-masses. Tlie remains of the l)atteries which once commanded the narrow entrance are visiljle on their rocky platforms. Fort Amherst and Cape Spear lighthouses and Freshwater Bay, with its fishermen's cottages, are seen to the south. A bird's-eye view is presented of tlie harbour and its shipping, with the whole city lying along tho northern slope, crowned liy the Roman Catholic Cathedral. A lower peak called Gallows Hill stands out j^rominently. — Here, in tlie olden time, criminals were hanged in sight of the whole city. BATTLE OF SIGNAL HILL, 1762. In 1762 Signal Hill was the scene of a brief but Idoody struggle. For tlie third time in sixty-six years the French had got jiossession of St. .John's. Lord Colville was sent from Hali- DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 257 fax with a squadron to drive theiu out. Colonel Amlierst landed a force from the ileet at Torliay, and marched overland to Saint John's. Up the rugged heights from Quidi Vidi the English soldiers charged to capture Signal Hill, the key of the position. The French fought desperately, and having a great advantage from their position, succeeded several times in repulsing their foes. At length Captain ]\IacI)onald, leading a company of Higidanders with Hxed hayonet^, daslied up the height and swept all T)efore them. Tlie hrave leader and his lieutenant were both severely, hut not mortally wounded. Signal Hill being won, the French saw that all was lost. Their fleet man- aged to escape by creeping out of the harbour in a thick fog. The English lost twenty men; the French loss was heavy, but the number is unknown. St. John's never again fell into the hands of the French. GEOLOGY OF THE HII,I>. Looking around tlie summit of the liill it is seen to be capped liy dark red sandstone lielonging to tlie Huronian system of rocks, corresponding to the English Cambrian which is developed .all over the peninsula of Avalon. The hill itself is strewed with lai'ge boulders liolding jasper and other water-worn pebl)les, showing tliat they once formed the margin of an old Silurian sea, and tliat by foldings and various earth-movements, the sea- bottom has become a liill of Tn'O feet al)Ove the level of the water, Hei-e too are seen striations on tlie rock-surfaces, showing that at .a later period they were under glacial action. Goologists tell us tliat the whole island was once, during long ages, in the same condition in which Greenland now is — under a great ice-cap many hundreds of feet in thickness. Most travellers allo\y that the view from Signal Hill is rarely surpassed elsewhere. OUIDI VIDI. A second interesting walk is to the picturesque fishing village £)f Quidi Vidi, half a mile from the city. The road to it leads past the Penitentiary and Hosj)ital, along the margin of the pretty little Quidi Lake, on which an annual regatta is held. 258 DIKECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. The village is a typical fisliing-village where can he seen in per- fection the ^;tages projecting over the water of the little harbour,, at -which the fishermen laml their tish, and the "flakes" on- which the cod are dried. During tlie fishing season, the whole process of "splitting," "heading" and salting can be seen. The' small harbour is connected with the ocean by a narrow gut only wide and deep enongli for fishing boats. All around rise steep' reil clitt's in fantastic shajies. Very fre([Uently an iceberg or two are grounded close by the mouth of the little harl)nur — their dazzlingly white pinnacles and spires contrasting .strikingly with the dark frowning rocks. These, with the fishing boats, stages and Hakes make a strikingly characteristic iiictiire. Artists are" strongly attracted to this spot. A little river fio^\■ing through the lake forms a pretty cascade as it tundjles over the rocks inter the harbour. Visitors will enjoy calling at some cottages of the fishermen, a\ here they Avill leceive a waiiii welcome, and can have a pleasant chat with the sturdy fishermen ami their wives whose oddities of speech and quaint views of things form an interesting study. A walk over the White Hills from the vil- hige, for two miles, Tuings the visitor to the beautiful Yii'ginia AVater. TO TORBAY, ETC. Another delightful di'ive is to Torbay, a tillage si.x: or seven miles from St. John's. The road runs to the north, passing near' Virginia Water, a ]n'etty little lake end)ossomed in woods, and abeunding in fine trout. Then Logie Bay (four miles) is reached, famous for its grand coast scenery. Outer ami nnddle Cove, two' miles farther on, are scarcely less remarkable for rocky scenery, Torbay is a thriving village picturesque in situation, having a handsome Eoman Catholic church, a Convent, excellent school- rooms and a large puVdic hall. The drive may be extendeil a few miles further on the I'oad to Pouch Cove. Along this coast, up to Cajie St. Francis, are no pebbly Ijeaches on which the sum- mer Avaves gently break, Init there is the massive grandeur of periH'udicidar clitfs, often sculptured into forms of stern beauty,- liIKKCTKJNS FOK ToriJISTS. 259 TO rOKTlGAI. C'OVK. Piiituj^Ml Covf, nine iiiih's noitli-wcst I'loiu St. John's, is a spot -vsliicli no tourist sliould omit visiting. The road is excellent aiul for the tirst four miles presents a continual ascent ; but when the :i^ummit or "height of land" is reached, if the day be clear, a splendid j)anorama presents itself. Away in the distance, on the light, is the grand old ocean, lieaving gently, under the summer breeze, like " the bosom of an infant asleep." A white sail or two are visible, or perhap- half a dozen lonely wanderers ol' the deeji that were born of (Greenland glaciers and are now as tower- ing icebergs sailing past to meet their doom in the waini waters .of the Gulf Stream. Tlie whole range of dark cliffs and lieail- lands from Cape Spear to the entrance of CVmcjeption Bay, i.s visilde from this eminence. Two miles further Windsor Lake is pas.sed, from which the city is supplied with Avater. Then .comes a gradual descent, liy a winding road, through a little valley of rare beauty with a brook flowing at the foot of its eu- jiompassing rocks, till at a sudden turn ot tlie road, Conception Bay in all its l<eauty Ijursts into view. The whole scene can be taken in at a glance — Belle Isle (d miles long) ; the whole range .of the northern shore of the bay, 30 miles distant, and the lonely rocky isle of Baccalieu, dindy visible in the distance at the mouth ,of this noble sheet of water. On the south shore is the quaint fishing village of Portugal Cove, with its wooden houses nestling .amid the clefts of the rocks, and its little water-fall tumbling .over the cliffs into the sea. The bold navigator Cortereal dis- •covered this bay in 1501, and named the roadstead after, his country. Half a day may be pleasantly spent here admiring the great over-hanging cliffs, the huge boulders scattered all around, the rugged hills ; and chatting with the primitive people who here fight life's battle. The sea has been the grave of many of their kindred ; but is it not too, with all its wild restlessness, -their bountiful mother from whose prolific bosom they derive their means of subsistence I The return to St. John's is best made vi(( Broad Cove, by the Thorburn Road, which affords a .change of scene and many delightful views. A visit to Portugal Cove is a matter that will be remembered. 260 DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. PKTTY HAKBOUK. Perhaps even a finer drive from the city is to Pettj' Harlioiu' (7 miles distant). It lies south of St. John's. The road runs via Waterford Bridge past the Lunatic Asylum, and for most of the distance is within sight of tlie Atlantic. Countless little lakes are passed on the way, each more beautiful and charming' than the last, and at length Petty Hailjour with a 2>opuIation of about a thousand, is reached. It is situated at the mouth of a deep ravine through Avhicli Hows a clear stream falling into the snug little harbour, fringed all around with fish-Hakes, and shut in by towering precij^iccs. This is a scene for the artist or pho- tographer. The drive by the old road, returning by the more modern road, througli the Goulds, is one of the most charming in the neighbourhood of the city. At a short distance south of Petty Harbour is " The Spoilt" — a funnel-shaped opening from above into a cavern which tlie sea has scooped out. In storjny weather the sea, rushing into this cavern, hurls the sjjray and foam aloft through this opening, presenting to the eye of the- traveller a most curious sight, visible at times for miles around. A LONOEK EXCURSION— ST. JOHN'S TO RENEAVS. Tourists who are inclined for a more exteiuled excursion may make arrangements for a drive from the Capital to Renews, 54 miles south of St. Joliu's. It is possible to reach Renews by getting a seat in the inail-conveyance which leaves St. John's twice a week — on Mondays and Fridays ; — but a better plan would be to hire a carriage (fare al)out <^'4 j^er day) and make the journey one day returning the next. As the hotel accommoda- tion is someAvhat primitive, it would be advisable to start Avith a well-filled luncheon-basket. The drive will amply reward the tourists. The road is excellent, and at many points the views are superb. The "barrens" along the route are famous for ptarmigan shooting, (willow grouse) ; and after Sejitember loth, when this sport begins, is much frequented by sportsmen. Count- less lakelets and trout-brooks are passed, in which fine trout are abundant. Striking views of the ocean are obtained at various DIRECTIONS FOK TonUSTS. 261 points oil the way, ami the coast scenery is magnificent, the hills having a strong leseniTilance to the Conlilleia peaks. The load first winds through a pretty, well-cnltivated little ^-alley, over Waterford Bridge, passing near Blackhead (i'our miles I'lom St. Jolm's) from which Cape Spear can be reached — the most eastern point of Xorth Anieiica, the summit, crowned by its lighthouse, being 264 feet above the seadevel. Petty Harbour, already re- ferred to (population 9;')3) is next passed and Bay of Bulls (20 miles from St. Johii'.s) is reachetl. The name is supposed to be a corruption of the French Baie de Bois (Bay of the woods). The poi^ulation is aboiit 700, nearly all fishermen. Bay of Bidls is a harbour of I'efuge vrheie vessels find shelter when the ice or stormy winds render it impossible to double Cape Spear and reach the Capital. It was the scene of several skirmishes in the olden days when English and French fought for supremacy in the island. The last of these was in 1796 wdien a French squadron appeared off the harbour of St. John's ; Init finding that a hot reception was prepared for them, they passed on with- out challenging a shot. They avenged themselves, however, by burning the defenceless settlement of Bay of Bulls, and after this small exploit disapj)eared. This was the last attempt made by the French to get a hold on Newfoundland. At an earlier date (1696) the French were more successful. Brouillan, (;rovernor of Placentia, with a squadron attacked Ferryland. On his Avay he met a solitary Englisli man-of-war which he chased into Bay of Bulls. Captain Cleasby, its Commander, determined to defend his vessel to the last. The gallant captain placed all his guns on the broad-side next the enemy and fought furiously till his vessel took fire, when he escaped to the shore. The French followed him, and he and his men had to suii'ender. Ferryland was de- stroyed by Brouillan. The fiimous French Commander D'lber- ville joined him and St. John's, then defended l)y a feeljle garrison, was captured and burned. The next settlement on this route, two miles further, is "Witless Bay (population 866). Then in succession come the small vil- lages of Mobile, Toad's Cove, La Manche, Brigus, Cape Broyle :2G2 DiitECTioxs fou tourists. .([)(j])ulati(m .111), ami Fi'irvlaiid, forty-four iiiiler? fioni St. John's, (l)o[)iilatioii 5 49). Fcrrvland is a liistoric spot. Here in 1624, .(see Historical Sketcli), Sir (Ttorge Calvert, afterwards Lord Baltimore, planteil a eoluiiy, Imilt a fort and a tine mansion, in Avliich he resided with his family for a number of ^ears. Here too Sir David Kirke took up his resi<lence in 1G38, armed Avith the powers of a Count Palatine over the whole island. These famous leaders and warriors have long since vanished, " like the snow-Hake <n\ the river'; but the curious traveller can still trace the ]-emains n[' the fiat and houses. Continuing this sou- thern route, Aquaforte and PVrmeuse ([lopulation 037) with its .deep and safe harbour, are reached. Three miles further comes Renews, iifty-four miles from St. John's, (population 5.38). The scenery around these harbours is most picturesi|ue. At Renews are the tall rugged hills callad the Butter])0ts, the range running thirty miles north to H(jlyrood at the head of Concejition Bay Avhere is another hill named Butter])ot. Ten miles further south is Cape Race, but the road or tiack lieyond Renews is not pass- alile for a carriage. Round the grim rocks of Cape Race (a cor- ruption from the Portuguese name Capo Razo, or Bare Cape), swift condicting currents circle ; dark fogs in summer and autinnn often brood for weeks togethei', so that the navigator has to shape his course mainly by the soundings. In recent years the dangers .of this spot, where many a ship has been dashed to pieces, have been greatly lessened by the erection of a powerful fog- whistle. EXCUKSIONS BY SEA. Two trips from St. John's by steamer can be recommended to those who enjoy the sea, and wish to make ac(|uaintance with the various localities and to view the grand coast scenery which is unsurpassed elsewhere. The tine steanier.s of the Coastal .steani-sliip Company — tlie Grand Lalce and Virijinia Lale — make fortnightly trips, during summer and autumn, the formei' taking tlie southern andwestei-n I'oute, and the latter the northern route to Battle Harbour, Laln-ador, touching at the various inlerme- .diate ports. Those wIk; do not class themselves as invalids, but i»ii;e( rioxs yon totkists. 2G3 >wlii) want to lireatlu' tlic Ijmciiig sea-air and lieuftit by tlif sti- i:nulu< ill ipait I'll to niiiul ami liody by constant cliange uf scene, •will find either or both ui' these ti-ijis, in the Coastal steamers, ■enjoyable and beneticial. The aeeonimodation Tor tiavellers, .especially in the Grand Lahe, is excellent ; the ta1)le good, and •the captains and ofticer.s are experienced carel'iil men, noted for •their attention and rourtesy to trawllers. Almost the entire j-oiind ol' the island can be made in these steamers. Those who do not care to make the whole ronnd can land at any of the in- iermediate i)orts where there are sutiicient attractions, and spend a few days fishing, shooting, sketching,' and photographing, await- ing the return of the .steamers, thus greatly enhancing the plea.sni'es of the trip anil securing the oi)portuuity of making .a closer aciiuaintance with the country and its people. After ^•eacliing Battle Harbour, the tourist can extend his trip along itlie wliole coast of Laluador as tar as Xain, as the Labrador mail steamer connects there. THK AVK.STEKX ItOUTE PEIt " GK.V>'I> I.AKK " — ST. JOHN'S TO BONNK BAY DIST VNCK 6.51 MILES. From St. John's to Bonne Bay the fare for cabin passage is j^lo — meals included, — the .same rate in returning ; for inter- iniediate jtorts the rate is proportional according to distance. From St. John's to Battle Harbour the fare for cal)in is $'12. On the Lal)rador steamer §2 per day. On each route there are about 24 ports of call, .so that ample opportunity of viewing the scenery iind obtaining an ielea of the country is attbrded. POINTS OF CALL— WESTERN KOUTE. After leaving St. John'.s the steamer makes her fir.st call at Ferryland, and rounding Cape Kace she passes (25 miles farther) ^t. Shotts, where niauy a mariner has gone down, " urdcnelled, iincottined and unknown," and enters the line liarlnjur of Tre- passey. Her course theuce is up St. Mary'.s Bay, 25 miles wide .at the mouth, and 35 miles in length. St. Mary's, the port of £all, (518 inhabitants) is a busy (ishing village and somewhat of a farming district. PJac.eijtia Bay, the lai-gest in the island, being 204 i)ii;ECTir).\s roi; tourists. 90 luik's ill leiigtli ami o.") miles wide at its moutli, is next reaclie(l. It contains clusters n\' isL^inl-, one of tlieni, (4reat Merasheeu Island, lieing 21 miles long. The scenerv of this hay is very tine. Tlie steamer makes four calls here — at Placentia, St. Lawrence, Lanialine and IJurin. Burin is a very prosperous place, having extensive fisheries and a lai'ge trade with St. Pierre Its land-locked harhour is one of the finest in the island. Fortune Bay is next reached, noteil for its fine herring fishery and is a great resort for American fishing ves.-els. Tlie French Islands of St. Piei're and Micpielon are visilde, in tlie month of the Bay, Fortune, Grand I'ank, Belleoram, St. Jacques, Harliour Briton are touched at in succession. The scenery of Bay D'Espoir (corrupted into Bay Despair') and of Hermitage Bay, arms of Fortune Bay, is pronounced hy many travellers to be the nu)st magnificent in the island. Burin, Harliour Briton, Burgeo ami Rose Blanche are most picturesipie in situation. Artists will lieie find the most striking materials on which to work, and might spend here with 2)rofit many weeks studying nature's varied forms. lOKTlINK TO CAPE KAV. From Fortune Bay tliere is a straight line of coast 100 miles- in length, terminating at Cape Bay. It is indented with num- bers of small bays and harbours, the most important being La Poile and Rose Blanclie Bays. Numerous clusters of islaiul'^ are seen in passing, such as the Penguin Islands and the Burgeo Islands. From the largest of the latter Captain James Cook, the celebrated naAngator, observed an eclipse of the sun in 1765. Ptnl-au-Basfpie, a s})lendid harliour, deep, and perfectly shel- tered, is destined to be a place of gieat importance as the western terminus of the trans-insular i-aihvay now in course of construc- tion. Close to it is (Channel, a thriving place, with a ]io}mlation of 723. CAPE KAY TO POUT-AU-POKT. Rounding Cape Ray (105 inhabitants) the steamer now i^asses along what is 2)opularly known as the French Shore. Opposite" Cape Ray, on the Cape Breton shore, is Cape North, the two DIRECTIOXS FOR TOUUISTS, 2G5 capes sentinelling' the entiancc of tlie (lull' of St. L.iwivnci'. Fioni Cape Kay to Cape Anguille (lie coast is singularly luggvilanil iu- liospitable. The Great and Little Coilroy liivers discharge their ■waters between these two jmints alter llowiiig thnnigh a fertile valley oO nules in length. Tlie noble liay nf St. (leorge's Bay, 51(5 miles iVom St. John's, now oj)ens, having accoi'ding to the Census of ISUl a })opulation of (),G32. Its fertile shores, as we have already .seen, are ricli in forest and nnni'ral wealth. Tlie steamer makes a short stay at Samly Point, then rounds the 2)eninsula of Port-au-Port famous for its fossils, and latterly for its asbestos mines. The ])acking of lobsters is here carried on extensively. Geologists come here to chisel the great cephalopods out of its rocks. BAY OF ISLANDS. Ninety-Jour miles farther north the Bay of Islands (population 1,500) is reached. As the name indicates it has numerous islands. It has three great arnrs running twenty miles inland, one of ■which I'eceives the Humber, the second largest river in the island. The scenery of this bay is siioktu of by all travellers in rapturous terms. A paper contributed by Mr. G. S. Benjamin to the Century Ma(ja:dne, giving an account of hi.s trip to this region, contains the folowing : — "The day was superli as if this noble bay wished to ti.K a favoural)le impression upon the memoiy of the voyagers who had come so far to see it. Blonudon soared inaje.stically above us, the monarch of that mountain land, crowned ^\'itll a wreath of roseate clouds, and the surrounding- isles were suffused with the glow of a peaceful sunset. The water of the Bay of Islands is as blue as that of the Mediterra- nean. In this case it cannot Ije dTie to a larger ])roportion of salt Avhich is the cause of the intense blue of the sea in warm climates, so it must be attributed to the greater depth of the Newfound- land Bay. As I gazed entranced at the lovely scene before nn; I was able for the first time to realize, by the aid of the gohlen haze veiling the long slopes and tumbling steeps the grandeur of the sierras which enclosed the Bay of Islands. Tlie silence was intensified by the silvery waterfalls dropping from crag to crag "2(JG DIKECTIOX-^ I'OIt TorillSTS. jiiany Innuhed tV-i't willi an etlierial motion uiid yut giviiii; lortli nf) eclio or .^oiuil of tladr da-^liing, so distant wei-e tliey from ■our sliip.'' BONNE liAY. Forty miles farther north Bonne Bay is entered. Another traveller says o! it, "if anything it is even more magniticent in natural liv^auty than the Bay of Islands. A lovelier scene cannot be imagined. Great hills in tlie foregronnds and beyond ; monn- tains peeping over each others' shoulders ; and away up in the blue skv the .snow sparkled (m the higher storm-lashed peaks which reared their heads far inland, all rolted in a beautiful transparent atmosphere utterly unknown elsewhere. To the iioith the hills were bare, rnggeil, precii)itous ; but on that par- ticular morning the glorious sunsliine made them lose half their -desolate bleakness. We climbed tlie nearest hill, liut only for a short distance. Cliffs towered above us on every hand, over •which poured cascades of melting ice (the time was early May) thundering in the deep chasms below. The hoarse roar of water- falls came from far and near. Tlie heat was almo-t unbearable — and this in a land known only for its fogs I I We left Bonne Bav with regret." RETURN. The Grand Lake at Bonne Bay is Gol miles from St. John's And usually reaches it on the fourth or fifth day after starting from the capital, returning by the same route and calling at the ..same j^orts as on the out\\ard triji. The round trip is usually made in nine or ten days. RETURN BY RAIL. When the Xorthern and Western Railway reaches Bay of Islands, proljably l}y the close of the present year (1894) tourists can land there and enjoy the railwav journey l)ack to St. John's, thus obtaining greater variety. This will probably become a favourite route for visitors. NORTH :::UN ROUTl — iT. JOHN'S TO IJ.VTTUE HARBOUR, I.ABR.\.I>OR. Di.stanc3 about 500 miles. Cabin fare (meals included), '§'12 ; DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 267 same amount returning. Tlie Virginia Lake, of the Coastal Steamship Co., leaves St. John's fortnightly, during the .summer and autumn montlis, for Battle Harliour, Laljrador, calling at intermediate ports to land and receive mails and passengers. In .some respects the trip i.s even more enjoyable than that pre- viou.sly described. The .sea-beeeze.s are more Ijiacing ; the at- mo.sphere clear from the entiie aUsence of fog. The bright .sun- Bhine, the impressive coast scenery, the frequent stoppages at the various harbours breaking the monotony of the voyage, and affording glimpses of the people and tlifir ways of living ; the great bays across which the steamer ])loughs her way — all com- bine to render the excursion stimulating and pleasant. Tlien should the trip include the Labrador coast, a strange wild land is reached, and a new expei'ience is gained amid its icebergs and towering cliffs, its hardy fisher-folk gathering in the sea liarvest and battling with the billows. There is something entirely oiit of the ordinary track of travellers in such an excursion. All is- fresh, awakening, " bracing Ijrain and sinew." ST. JOHN'S TO TKINITY— HATTON'S "UNDER THE GREAT .SEAL." After clearing St. John'^ Narrows the Vinjinia Lair. j)asses Toibay Head, Cape St. Francis with its restless waves Ijreaking iipon the "Brandies," as the outlying rocks are called ; the mouth of Conception Bay ; the grim cliffs of Baccalieu Island, the resort of iny)'iads of sea-fowl ; and Grate's Point. It then enters the noble Ijay of Trinity, seventy miles in length ; and after touch- ing at Old Perlican on the southern shoi-e (forty-seven miles from St. John's) it crosses to Trinity (sixty-eight miles) one of the finest and most beautiful harbours in the Moild. Round the shores of Trinity Bay more than 18,000 people are clustered, nearly all engaged in the fisheries ; many of them spend the summer on Labradoi'. At the head of this bay, the first Atlantic Cable was landed in 18.58 ; and tlie caliles, now in ojieiation^ emerge from the ocean at Heart's Content, on its southern shore^ after traversing the great submarine plain of 1,600 miles Ijetween Newfoundland and the coast of Ireland. A few miles farther '268 DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. np tlie liay is Heart's Delight, a small fishing village, having 430 iiiliahitants, now ianiuus as the scene of Mr. Joseph Hatton's popular novel " Under the Great Seal." This accomplisheil novelist has depicted in his exciting story the magnificent sce- nery of Heart's Delight and Heart's Content, and the ways and speech of the fisher-folk, with marvellous accuracy and touching effect. All who wish to realise wliat Newfoundland was in the days of the Fishing Admirals shouhl read this fine tale, rich in pathos and dramatic eft'ects. CATALINA TO TWILLINGATE. The next call of thi steamer is made at Catalina (87 miles) — i\ harbour of i-efuge at the north entrance of Trinity Bay — (o\'er 1,000 inhabitants). The name Catalina, like Kathleen in Irish, is the musical Spanish term for Kate or St. Catherine, after wlmm it is named. Bonavista Bay is now entered, having around its shores a pojiulatiou of 17,849. Its largest town, (Bonavista), (107 miles) lias a population of 3,550, l)eing a thriving phice. Around the bay is much excellent land ; a large (juantity being under culture. King's Cove (116 miles) is next touched at (popu- lation 589). Then a call is made at Greenspond (148 miles) on an island with fine fi.shing grounds around it, (population 1,317). The steamer's course is then shaped for Fogo (815 inhabitants), a liarbour on an island of the same name in Notre Dame Bay. The j)ros2)erous town of Twillingate (French TouluKjnet) also on an island, having a population of 3,585, is next reached, (distance from St. .John's 232 miles.) THK MINING REGION. TJie vovagei' is now in the famous cojiper-miuiug region, ('alls are ma<le at Exjiloits, Pilley's Island, (population 411), noted i'or its splendiil iron-jiyrites mine (see chapter on Mineial Besources), the ore being pronounceil the finest in the world for the manufacture of sulphuric acid. Little Bay Island, Little liay, Ni]iper's Harbour, BetL's Cove, Tilt Cove — 317 miles — <1,004 inhaliitants). DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 269 TII.T COVE TO BATTLE HAKBOUK. Proceeding on her nortlierii route the .steamer now approaches an important landmark — Cape St. John — the northern headland of Xotre Dame Bay, and the north-eastern terminus of the French Shore. From this point she glides along a vast wall of rock 400 to 500 feet high and six miles in length, the summits presenting every inimaginahle shajte into which rocks can be torn or sculjj- tured. The ports touched at after passing Cape St. John are Coachman's Cove (349 miles from St. John's) ; Conche (399 miles), St. Anthony (43.") miles), Gricjuet (450 miles), Great Kirpon (450 miles). Cape Bauld and Cape Norman, dreary and desolate spots, the most northern points of the island are then jiassed. Here at times a great procession of stately icebergs maj^ l)e seen moving to tlie soutli through the Straits of Belle Isle, across whose east- ern entrance tlie sti-ami'r now shapes lier course, passing Belle Isle, a treeless, bairen little island nine miles long and three miles broad. Early mariners called it the " Isle of Demons," imagining tliat they heard liere "a great clamour of men's voices, confused and inarticulate, such as you liear from a crowd at a fair or market-place." The grinding of the ice-tloes and the crash of the lofty bergs during a gale would lie tprite sufficient to give rise to these superstitious fancies. After passing Belle Isle the steamer soon reaches her terminus at Battle Harbour, 495 miles from St. John's. Battle Harliour is a sheltered roadstead, be- tween Battle Island and Great Caribou Island. It is a great fishing centre i'or Labiador vessels, and during the season is crowded with craft of all sorts, presenting a very lively scene. L VBKADOK TRIP. From Red Bay or Battle Harbour to Nain, Freestone Island and Ramah — distance about 450 miles fare on board the Lab- rador steamer $2 per day. To those who do not fear to rough it a little, a trip in the Labrador mail steamer JVindsor Lake can be recommended. The ■invigorating atmosphere, the sternly grand scenery, the wild but •novel surrojiiidings render this excursion attractive to all who 270 DIRECTIONS FOI! TOURISTS. can dispense for a little with tlie mere luxurie.s of civilization,^ and who are not over squeamish as to " what they eat, drink and avoid" and are content with jilain wholesome fare. Admirers of icebergs will revel in a scene where tliey can at times be cmniteci in hundreds. This " great and teiril)le wilderness" — to use an' Old Testament phrase — stretches for more than a thousand miles- to Cape Chidleigh, at the entrance of Hudson's Straits. The coast is indented by countless fiords, one of them, Hamilton Inlet, is 30 iniles wide at its mouth, while its head is 150 miles- from the sea. Fortunately, on this gi'iiu stonu-l>eaten coast,- there are numerous and safe harbours. It is under the jurisdic- tion of Newfoundland along its Atlantic coast line ; but ther interior and the Gulf Side of the coast from Blanc Sal don are iTuder Canada. Formerly the St. John's mail steamer connected at Battle" Harljour with the Labraihn- steamer, but a change has been maile this year, the southern terminus of the Lal>rador steamer's route being Red Bay where connection is made. The route is also ex-- tended beyond Nain to Ramah, the most northern of tlie Mora-- vian Mission stations. A-^, however, the JFimlsor Lake calls at Battle Harbour on lioth lier northei-n and southern trips, no* difficulty will be experienced in joining her there ; but it is at Red Bay the steamers meet for connection. Only two trips in the season are made to Nain and Ramah, on whicli occasions- Battle Harbour is the southern terminus. LABRAKOIl POKTS OF CALL, The principal ports of call in Labrador are Francis Harbour,- Square Island, Dead Island, Venison Islaml, Punch Bowl, Bat- teau, Uomino, Indian Tickle, Grady, Pack's Harbour, Indian^ Harbour, Emily Harbour, Cape Harrison, Ragged Islands, Turna- vick Islands, Windsor's Harbour, Hopedale, Nain, and Ramah.- The last three are stations of the Moi-avian missions. Tlie mis- sionaries stationed here are Germans, but njost of them s])eak English, and all are well educated, and excellent men. They willingly recei\-e and entertain strangers. A fortnight may be PTRECTIONS FOR TOURLSTS. 271" agreeably spent at HopeJale or Nain awaiting the i-eturn of tlie' steamer. An 02>portnnity is att'orded of seeing the clnistianiziid Eskimo who live aronnd these stations and have been tauglit liy the missionaries not only in a knowledge of Christianit}', Imt in' useful industrious arts. Visitors usually retui'U laden with Eskimo curicjsities made from tusks of the walrus, and also' articles of clothing made fi'om the skins of seals and reindeer. All visitors are favourably impressed witli tlie nolde self-denying labours of the Moiavian Missionaries. MEDICAL, AID FOR THK FISHEKMEN: MISSION TO DEEP SEA FISHERMEN— DK. GRENFELl,. The IVindsor Lake carries a doctor who is paid by the Govern- ment and supplied with medicines. He brings medical and surgical aid to the fishermen, at the different ports of call, in cases of sickness and accident. Wlien it is taken into account that in the fishing season there are from 20,000 to 25,000 persons, many of them women and children, living foi- three and a half or' four months in rude temporary huts on shoi'e, or on board the' floating fishing crafts going far north, exposed to the vicissitudes of the weatlier and in constant jieril, it will be seen hdw little' one medical man, moving up and down the coast in the mail steamer, and having but an hour at eacli port, could do to help' such a multitude in cases of sickness. Some benevolent persons brought under the notice of the Managers of the Mission to Deep' Sea FisJiermen in England the hardships and suffei'ings of the Labrador fisher-folk, and their great need of medical and surgical assistance, and in many instances of warm clothing. The j-esult was that the Mission Ship Albert was sent tliere in 1892, iu' charge of Dr. Grenfelh His rejtort leil to her return in 1893. With assistance obtained here and in England two excellent hospitals, fully efpiipped, were erected, one at Battle Harl)our' and one at Indian Harljour much furtlier north. A doctor and a trained nuurse were placed in chaige of each. The Albert cruised along the coast during the fishing season, Dr. Grenfell ministering to the sick and relieving the poor with donations of clothing, and in some cases of food. The severe cases were car-- •LM! DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. ried to tlie liospitak. A large amount of good was accomplish ed. No less than 2,493 cases, medical and sui-gical, were treated. The benevolent and liberal Sir Donald Smith, of Montreal, was so impressed witli the value of these services that he pre- sented this year to the Labrador Mission a beautiful steam yacht 80 feet long, to be emjjloyed in visiting the different fishing stations, in charge of Dr. Grenfell, and carrying to them medical and otlier relief, and conveying the sick to the hospitals. With such a vessel the good work will Ije greatly enlarged. THK GRAND FALLS OF HAMILTON KIYEK, LABRADOR. Rigolet is the only port of call for the steamer in Hamilton Inlet. Hamilton Ri\'er, which flows from the interior of Labra- dor, discharges its waters into the head of this inh4. The Grand FalU on this river were re-discovei'ed in August 1891 liy Mr. Henry G. Bryant, of Philadelphia, a noted traveller, and Prof. Kenaston, of Washington. These explorers, after a most perilous and toilsome joui'uey of 2.50 miles up the river, in a boat, j'eached the Falls. Mr. Bryant has described his experience (hiring this journey in an article contributed to The ('ratunj Miujadne, and beautifully illustrated Ijy pictures taken from his photographs of the various scenes. Recently he has published a small volume describing their adventures, and tlie appearance of the falls which is also illustrated. He describes the spectacle as most magniticent, amply rewarding the long and <lifficult journey. The river leaps iiom a rocky jilatform intu a huge chasm. The roar can be heard at a distance of twenty miles. An im- mense column of mist rises to a great height, showing a beauti- ful rainbow. The height of the falls was found, on accurate measurement, to be 316 ft., that of Niagara being 1.50 tolG4ft. The .canon into which the river plunges below the falls is 2"} nules in length, the cliffs along its banks being 400 to 500 feet high at the entrance. At a short distance above the falls the ri\er is of con- sitlei'able width, but the Ijanks gradually narrow till where it makes its final plunge the stream is not more than 200 feet across, the water l)eing jient up and forming an arch and rusliing on DIIJECTIOXK FOR TOURISTS. 273 with extraordinary swiftness. The first white man who saw tliese falls, 30 years before, was a Scotchman named McLean, an official of the Hndson Bay Company. No one is known to have visited them since that time. IMythical stories regarding them were in cii'culation, and some writers represented them to be 2,000 feet liigli, so that sober-minded persons began to qnestion their existence. Xotliing would induce a Labrador Indian to ap- proach the falls which they believe are haunted by evil spirits of .extraordinary malignity, bent on the destruction of all intruders. A halt-ln-eed Indian who had the temerity to approacli them, told Mr. Bryant that under the ialls are witches constantly en- eaued in wasliin"-, and that he saw their long white arms and streaming hair as they tried to grasp and drag him into the foaming al)yss. G(jld he said \\'ould not induce him to go near tliem a second time. Ordinary touiists are not likely to visit the C4rand Falls till a more practicable route is opened. A party lead l.iy officials of the Canadian Geological Sui'vey crossed Lab- rador last winter coming out at Hudson's Bay, and this summer tliey are traversing the great peninsula in another direction and will visit the Graml Falls. They found the country far better timbei-ed than was ])reviously believed, and much richer in animal life, especially reindeer. It may Ije mentioned that Mr. Bryant, the discoverer of the ■Clrand Falls, is now engaged in Arctic Avork, in connection with IVary's Greenland Expedition. He left St. .lohn's on July 7th, 1S94, in the steamer Falcon, as leader of the Peary Auxiliary Expedition, to bring home Peary and Ids party. He had it in view to spend a month in exploring and charting 350 miles of unknown coast in Jones's Sound jirevious to the return of the •Greenland Exp^'ditinn. KXCUltSIONS BY RAILWAY. St. John's to Harl)our C^race : distance, 83^ miles ; time, five hours. First class fare, 8^.50 ; second class, $!1.70 ; one through train daily. During the smnmer montlis the regular daily train leaves St. John's at 10 a. m. and Harl)our (irace at 11 a. m. There 274 DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. are extra trains running for shorter distances during summer, and frequent excursion trains. See time-tal)]e for information re^ garding "round trip tickets," excursion ])arties," " extra trains,"' etc. For fares and distances to intei'mediate stations see adver- tisements at tlie end of the volume. Tlie Newfoundland Railway Station is in the east end of St.- John's. It is far fi'om being an imposing structure ; but in (bie time a more creditable and convenient station will take its place. The train runs at first towards the west and soon reaches Toi)sail (15 miles) -where Conception Bay with its islands (Great and Little Belle Isle and Kelley's Island^ and its beautiful scenery, comes into full vieA\' as the train reaches the station. Topsail is a pretty village — "the Brighton of Newfoundland" — a favourite summer and bathing resort for the peojile of St. Jolin's, where' comfortable boarding houses can Ije found, and the air is pure and health-giving. The scenery, as the train winds along the' .shores of the bay, in a bright summer's day, is rarely surpassed.- Holyroo<l, at the head of the bay, presents some striking scenery,- especially along the sea-arms which extend inland for some dis- tance. After rounding the head of the bay the line runs inland, and Brigus Junction (47i miles), the station for the thriving little town of Brigus (1,541 population), seven miles distant, oip the north .shore of Concei)tion Bay, is then reached. WHITBOUItXK. At iVliitbourne (named in honour of the brave Ca2)taiif Whitboitrne, see page 14), a fine thriving village has .^jirung up, having saw-mills, railway woik-shops and other industries. The lan<l liere is excellent, and farming operations are extending. There is a I'aiily good hotel. More and more Whitbourne is be- coming a favourite resort foi- excursion parties ; and as the numeious ponds in the neighbourhood are sAvarming with the finest trout, anglers make it tlieir head-quartei's. HAIJOUK GKACE. Harbo\ir Givxce (83i niiles), the terminus of the line, ((3,46G' poimlation) is a clean well laid out town. Its site is excellent ;• DlK'ECTiOXS FOll TOrKISTS. 2V0 fliKi a walk ({•wii tlif shore eastward, or over the liills l)eliin(1, \vliere l>eautii'ul views oF t]ie Ijay ai'e nljtained, is charming-. All visitors are nnuli j)leaseil witli Harliour (iiare, ami its kiiully liospitalile iuhaliitauts. Its supply ut' the juii-est water from a neighbouring like is alminlant. It is deeply inteivste 1 in the Labrador tisheries to which laige numbers of its people as well ,a.s of the \arious towns and villages on the north shore of the ))ay, resort in su'ainier. The huge fishing establishment of John Munn & (,\). i.~ well worthy of a visit. Here are .seen the im- nieiise stores where diaed codfish are ])iled and prepai-ed for x'\p(ji1ation ; and the machinery for the mannfactui-e of seal oil. The process of ])reparing ami ])acking the "boneless coilfish" tinning caplin ; manutacturing the finest glue from the skins of i;odfisli, and guano from their bones and other refuse ; and of juaking refined coddi\er oil liy the freezing process (an immense improvement) can be seen here in full operation. In all these iiew de]iartments thi-i enterprising firm have led the wav. The firm of John Patterson & Co. is aiKJther supjdying house doing A large tr.ide. In 1889, the IxMUtiful Roman Catholic Cathedral was un- liapi)ily destroyed liy fire. It was a gem of architecture, and au /jrnament of the town. Its I'estoT'ation is now api>roaching com- pletion undei' the zealous and skilful supervision of Bishop McDonald. No visitor should fail to make a trip by railwa} to Harbour *(irace. Comfortable accommodation can be had at The Gordon flotisc, (fare 'S'1.20 per ilay), and in other boarding house.*. HAllBOUK GK.4€K TO HL:AUT'.S CONTENT. The trip to Harbour Grace may Ije profitably completed by A carriage drive of 16 miles to Heail's Content via Carbonear, It can easily be accomplished in one day, leaving several hour.s to be spent in the world-famous western terminus of the Anglo- American Telegraidi Co. The drive itself, in a tine day, over the l)reezy hills, is enjoyable ; and the village of Heart's Content, ivitli its surrounding scenery, is peculiarly striking. The spaci- 270 DIRECTIONS roi; TOUKIST.S ous Imililiiig iisL'd for t(.4fgia])liiL' jmrposes cannot 1a' mistaken,- as it luonis up like a (Jolossns over tlie low thvellings ot' tiie ti>li- ennen. The visitor may reckon on receiving a cordial welcome. The officials of the Company are most courteous ami attentive to strangers, and ready to explain all the mystei-ie> of telegiviphy. The eye is at first Itewildered looking at the complicated appa- ratus by which cable messages are sent or received. Kevs, key- boards, jars, wires, wheels ami other telegi-aphic parajjhernalia seem to the uninitiated a mass of inexti'icable confusion. But the operator now seats himself bef(j';e the "Eecorder," the famous instrument invented by Sir William Thompson, which has (piite superseded the older instrument kn(jwn as the '' lletlector,'' and made a new era in sub-marine telegraphy. He in([uires of the operator at Valencia, Ireland, 1,700 miles away, what kind of weather they have. The last movement in .sending the message Las hardly ceased when the l)ras.s rollers begin to move and the reply commences to lie received. As the pajier tajie passes pei'pen- diculai'ly between the rollers, a delicate syphon, hung in a little" i-eservoir of electrified iidc, is seen marking it ; and the marks are the record of the message which has started from Valencia. The characters are traced on the tape about as fast as a slow penman copies a letter, and are read off at once by the jiractised eye of the operator. A small magnetic coil whicli is positively or nega- tively electrified by the working of two keys manipulated b}- the sender of the mes.sage, swings the syphon point now to one side,- now to the other, along the tape, marking out a delicate line, ■which, to the irninitiated, looks like a minature tracing of the summits of a monntain range. Here is a high elevation on the line, theie a depression ; then a single notch, or two or three notches are traced. The keen eye of the telegrapher glances along this waving line, and every peak, dej^ression or elevation is to him an alphabeti(;al symbol. The curves correspond with letters and numerals, and thns he rai)idly translates them into ^vords. This is the wonderful "Recorder" — a machine of the most delicate fineness and flexibility, so as to minimize to the utmost the electric strain needed for working the cable. What DIRECTIONS roi; TOUIJISTS. 277 a w'firlil i)f llmugiit must liave ln'i'ii expeiuleil in the construction of sucli an instrument, wliicli with the little wire wliicli unites two hemi-plieres, has made the cry>;tal ilome of the Atlantic a whispering gallery between the Old "World and the New. HOW BREAKS AUK DETECTKD. Another wonderful instrument shown to the visitor is the delicate machine In whicli a hreak or flaw in the cahle is ([uickly located, and accurately determined within a lew yards. Tin' following explanation will convey some idea of the method hy wdiich this \\(jnderful i'eat is peri'ormed : "The whole electric potency of the cahle, when fully charged is known ; and the same can be (inickly ascertained of the two parts created liy a break. A delicate instrument, adjusted to the nicest tractions,, discloses the electric units or "ohms" in ea(di part ; and as the number of ohms to the mile is known, the nuh's ami fractions of miles iu both parts can lie found ont at each end of the cable. In the case of a clean lueak the locating of it takes about fifteen minutes. But a very angular break, or a Haw makes perturba- tions of the measurement wliich it, now and then, takes some' hours to rectify." FEAT OF THE S. S. " MINIA." Almost as wonderfu is the process Ijy which the broken ends of the cable are ]>icketl up with ease and certainty and the injury repaired. The famous cable sliip Minia, Captain Ti-ott, a few j'ears ago, picked ii]) an injured cable of the Anglo-American Company, without trouble, at a depth of two and a quarter miles- near the middle of the Atlantic. NEAV CABLE OF 1894. Wonderful im])rovements in the manufacture of the modern cable have been made ; and each new cable seems to surjtass its 2:)redecessors. The dujjlex system of sending or receiving messages doubles the capacity of every new cable that is laid. The work- ing life of a cable is now about ^0 years. While this page is going through the press, the laying of a new cable by the Anglo- American Company has connnenced at Heart's Content. It in •1278 DIRECTIONS FOI! TOUKISTS. .<lesci-il)e(l as iai sui-passing any itruviously laid. It is claiiiieil for this new cable that it will ])ossess twice the capacity ot any .existing cable, its couductor being 1200 lbs. per mile ; tlie ave- rage uf other caliles being less than half this weight. The pre- sent cables at Heart's Content, — four in number — tiansniit about twenty woi-ds per minute in each direction, on the duplex principle, or forty in all. Tlie new cable is expected to tr;ins- niit 1:?0 woi'<ls ])er minute. The "Recorder" is to lie super- seik'd by the " Wlieatstone Automatic " instrument, which will .surpass the " Eecordcr" as far as it surpassed the now obsolete " Eetlector.'" Such are the rapid strides made in ocean tele- grapl;y. THK OFFICIAI. STAFF. The station at Heart's Content gives emjiloyment to between ;30 and 40 persons. The conuuunity made uj) of the electricians an<l ojierators, many of whom are married, constitutes a i)leasant, refined society. They are ])icked men in their i)rofession, well ^educated, intelligent and courteous. Superior talent is needed, and the salaries ])aid are lilieral. Such compensation for the lonely isolated life jiassed in this ictired s^jot is sui-ely called for. There is a romantic interest attaching to this spot where the possiViility of wedding two hemispheres in electric bonds was first demonstrated. Mr. Frederick N. Gisborne has the high honour of being the originator and the first practical prime mover in the great enterprise which first established telegraphic com- munication between the Old AVorld and the New. But it was the heroic perse\'erance, the dauntless coxxrage and indomitable xMiergy of Mr. (Jyrus Field that, after thirteen loug years of effort, won the final triumph in 1866, and completed the work. The services rendeied to tlie cause of civilization by these two men are incalculable, From that date till the present hour thought lias been flying on the lightning's pinions between east and west. In this secluded spot these men carry on the work, summer and winter, day and night, interpreting the mystic hieroglyphics .sci'awlccl on the slender strip of paper. The messages make a DIKKCTIONS FOlt TOUHISTS. 1^70 Jirief i)ause hen', and are. tlieix flashed to theii (h'stination east and \ve>t. What tales of joy and woe; ot'"liattle, imirder and sudden dealli ;" of tlie eiash of empires ; of the triumph or <lo\vn- i'all of statesmen ; of tempest and sliipwri'ck ; of fortunes won or lost ; of events tliat rend the heart with grief, or l>rigliten the eye with gladness, ]ia\'e l)een n-rurded on this papei' ta[)e as it rolls on laden with its liuiden of world Instoiy. ]jut of the con- tents these operators ai-e as silent as the recording syphon it-elf. niLDO COIJ HATCHKKV. In returning to St. John's hy the Newfoundland railway, the tourist ran leave the i-ail\vay at liroad (Jove Station, and a drive of three miles will take him to Dildo, on Trinity Bay, now famous for its Cod and Lohster Hatcliery, whieh has achieved such triumphant success. It is on an island ahout half a mile tVom the shore. Should it he the hatching season ^Ir. Nielson, Superintendent of Fishei'ies, will he found there, and the visitor may calculate on a warm and coinleous welcome. The arrange- ments for hatching the cod and lohster ova ; the different stages .of the growth of the young fry, and the process of " planting,'' are full of interot. A visit heie will he well re[)aid. •ST. .lOHN'S TO ri.ACKNTIA BY K.\ILWAY. Distance, S4i miles; time, 4 hours; fare, 1st class, $3. No tourist should fail to pay a visit to Placentia — the old French capital — one of the most interesting places in the island, not only on account ot its historic associations, Imt for the e.xipiisite beauty of its scenery, es])ecially along the arms of the sea, one of which )-uns ten miles inland aiul the other si.\ miles. In July they abound in sea-trout of the finest ([uality, vvhi(di help to make the place a paradise to the angler. In addition, there are countles.s streams and lakelets in the neighbourhood, where he will find abundant ojipoi'tunities of pursuing his favourite sport. The walks and drives around to places of interest are <lelightful. The artist will tind much to interest him in the scenic beauty of jnany spots. Placentia is one of those place.s of which all visi- 280 DIRECTIONS FOI! TOURISTS, tors speak well, and from which no one returns (lisappointeJr A week can be s^ient here very pleasantly. OBJECTS OF INTEREST IN PLACENTIA. The route is the same as to Harlior Grace as i'ar as Whitljourne" Junction (574 miles). The Placentia Brancli is 27 miles in length. Leaving St. John's at 10 a. m. the traveller arrives at 2 p. m. There are four hotels — Bradshaw's (near the station), Yerran's,- Ryan's and Sinnot's in the town on the 023posite side of the har- bour. They are though unpretending clean and comfortable.- The town (563 inhabitants) has a quaint appearance, being built along a shingly beach. It was founded and fortified by the' French, and hehl by tliem till 1713 (see Historical Sketch).- Objects of interest are the Eonian Catholic church — a hand- some structure, and the remains of the oldest Protestant church- (Church of England) in the island, but in a most dilapidated and neglected condition. "William lY., — the "Sailor King," — visited Placentia when in conimand of the Pega.'ius (a ship at- tached to Nelson's fleet in the West Indies), and afterwards pre- sented to this church a handsome silver communion service of five i^ieces, which is carefully preserved and is shown to visitors at the house of Mr. Bradshaw who has charge of it. It liears the inscription, " Given by His Ptoyal Highness Prince William Henry to the Protestant Chapel at Placentia, Newfoundland,^ 1787." There ai'e strong reasons for believing that this churcli was built soon after the treaty of Utrecht (1713), so that this humlde wooden structure has braA'ed the storms of probably 170 years. It merits more care and attention than it has yet received. OLD TOMBSTONES. The ground around it was used as a l)urying ground long before the erection of the Church, tlie dates on the ancient tomb- stones plainly i^roving this. Most of these stones have been broken across and are now placed within the church for preserva- tion. The most interesting is one with the following inscription : "Dahemen Hilai— , May 1st, 1676." Two letters are effaced, sO' DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 281 that the name of the occupant of the grave probably was " Dalie- meu Hilaire." Then came words which have completely puzzled antiquarians ; " Canus de Tale le Araus anno nenego Seniea." A copy of tliis inscription was sent to the late Professor Eobertsou Smith, of Cambridge, one of the Editors of tlie Encyclopaedia Britannica, who jironounced some of the words to be Basque. Curiously enough the inscription is on both sides of the stone. The next oldest stone (1694) is that of a captain of a French King's frigate who rejoiced in the Bieton name of "Johannes de Sulgaraichipi." He was good enough, however, to shorten it into "Croisic" for every day use. Anothei' stone records the de- parture of a certain Richard Walsh in 1770, ''who carried on a most extensive trade in this harbour with the greatest credit, and died in the oSrd year of his age feelingly lamented by his Planters and Dealers," — which in those days was not often the case with deceased merchants. Some ©ne has scratched on the stone " May he rest in Pace." At the top is a rude carving, in relief, of the cross, of the crucifiction, with all the attendant symbols, including the nails, 2>incei-s, sponge, dice. CURIOSITIES AND EEI.ICS. On a door inside the church is the escutcheon of George III. ;• and in the quaint old Court House, which is close by, is the baton of office, bearing the quarterings of the House of Hanover, It is curious to find these relics of Basques, Bretons, French and the House of Hanover in such a sjiot on the shores of Newfound- land. Many interesting relics of the French occujoation are preserved among the people. One of these is an old French brevet signed by Louis XIV., and counter-signed by his prime minister, Phelypeaux, granting to Le Sieur de Costebello the ownership of the small peninsula of Point Verte near Placentia. The brevet is dated 1709, and is written on parchment in the most crabbed of old French. Many other grants are preserved bearing the autograph of the Grand Monarque. An oLl French china bowl has been found and preserved, in which, no doubt many a goodly measure of punch had been brewed. 282 DIKFXTIOXS FOR TOURISTS. SITUATION OF PI.ACEXTIA. The situation of Placeutia is most picturesque, nestling low on a sea-i'ornieil iK^acli, encircled by hills on all sides except towards the bay. Castle Hill is an object of interest. On it the French built a t'orniidable fortress which rose (jver the narrow entrance of the splendi<l harl)0ur, and so completely commanded it that the English were never able to capture the town, though repeated .attempts were ma le. On tlie ojjposite side is Flagstaff or Signal Hill. Its first name Mas Plaisance afterwards tivinsforrned into Placeutia. Point de Verde is three miles distant. Lilly White Pond, famous for its trout, is live miles distant. On the shores .<jf the Bay are La Manclie Lead and Silver Mine, also Silver < "liff Mine. A small mail steamer plies on the bay. In tine weatlier charming trips can be male in hn- around the shores of this noble bay. A most beautifnl drive to Salmonier — an arm of St. Mary's Bay, some 25 miles distant — affords many varied and ]iictures(pu' \'iews. In the season, excellent salmon fishing can be had at Salminier. There is there fair accommodation for travellers THK FUTURE OF PL.\CENTIA. Though the ancient glories of Placentia have departed, brighter l)rospects await it in future days. It is now a thriving little town, liaving an air of comfort. No signs of poverty meet the eye. It is one of the liest centres for the Bank fishery. It is a port of call for two mail steamers and has become a trade centre for the southern and western shore. Now that the railway has reached it and lirought it within four liours of the capital, and that the new line of railway will make it, when finished, accessible from Poi't-anx-Bas(pu', multitudes of tourist and visitors fi'om the United States and ( lanada, will make it a summer resort to enjoy its splendid scenery and health-giving air, and to ]ily the rod in its lakes, rivers ami sea-ai-ms. It has only to be known to be api)reciated. RICHARD r.ltOTHEK.S— THK MAD PROPHET. There is another memory connected with Placentia which has i\ curious interest. It is the birth-place of a singular personage DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 28;r called Eicliiinl Brothers — ;i religious fanatic — who created no small stir in London move tlian a century ago. He laid claim to the gift of prophecy, had visions and revelations, and scatteied his predictions broadcast. His followers were numl)ere(l hy thousands, and some of them were learned men and many moved in fashionable circles. He announced himself as being of Jewish descent, though separated from that race by 1500 years, and that he had come to restore the Jews which event was to take place in the year 1798. He was, he declared, of the tribe of Judah and a descendant of King David. On several of his more distingu- ished followers and patrons he conferred a similar distinction, and assured them he had learned by special revelation that they were Heljrews, one in particular being a descendant of Aaron, the- High Priest. HE KEACHKS NOTORIETY. It seems scarcely credible to us in these days that such absui-d ravings made a profound impression no longer ago than the reign of George TIL, and that in fashionable circles in London the ex- citement about tlie new Prophet Brothers Avas intense. " His house" Ave are told " was daily filled with persons of quality and 'fortune of both sexes ; while the street A\as crowded -with the great folks' carriages. Leai-ned divines entei'ed the tield as his opponents. Scores of pious enthusiasts wildly testihed in his favour. Thousands trembled at his denunciations of Avoe." One distinguished Oriental scholar named Hallied, Avho Avas also a member of Parliament, defended him in learned dissertations in the press, and also in parliamentary speeches. BKOTHEKS' GREATEST AVORK. Exactly a hundred years ago (in 1794) Brothei's published his greatest Avork entitled "A Revealed Knowledge of the Prophecies and Times." It is uoav ranked among the rare books, and its name ajipears occasionally in tlie catalogues of old books at a high price. It is said to be a tissue of the Avildest ravings ; once it Avas admired as an inspired production. Among other things he inlormed George III. that he would shortlv luxA'e to surrender -84 DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS, liis Crown to himself as Prince of Israel and Governor-General of the -world. SAD END OF THK PROPHET. Tlie madness of poor Brothers now became more prononnced. He went to the Honse of Conrmons to prophesy to its members of coming wars ami convulsions, but was snnnnarilv ejected. Soon after he was i)laced in a Lunatic Asylum where he ended his days. Numbers still believed in him and regarded him as a martyr, for "Faith, fanatic faith, once M-eililed fast To some dear falsehoo<l hugs it to the last." * BKOTHERS'S EARLY LIFE. It is somewhat of a sliock to find that tliis announced descen- dant of King David was the son of an Irisliman who came oat i'roni the old land to lietter his condition ; settled in Placentia ; married a Harbour Giace lady named Jewer, Ijy whom he had lour sons, this Richard being the eldest. By some means or other his father managed to get him a place as midshipman on board a British man-of-war where he rose to be a lieutenant. On a reduction of the navy taking place he was retired on a pen- sion of three shillings a day, and went to live in London where lie developed into a prophet. There are numbers of the de- scendants of the Brothers's family now living in Newfoundland —industrious respectable people— who all cherish proudly the memory of their learned and distinguished relative, who attained greatness in sucli a lemarkaljle way. It seems he did not forget his Newfoundland, relatives. He sent £100 at one time to be <livided among his brothers ; also the present of an enormous <iheese— the recollections of wliich are still vivid among those of the family who partook of it. A niece of the Prophet — Mrs. Mary Young, ox-er seventy years of age— is, or was lately, living in Upper Island Cove, Conception Bay. There are also several other nieces and nephews— some in Fermeuse. Richard was not ;i conscious imposter ; he was an honest enthusiast and a believer in his own prophecies. He must have had considerable ability DIRECTIONS FOK TOUEISTS, 285 ;.ancl some learning. "A bee in liis Lonnet" did the rest; but Placentia will hardly erect a monument to the memory of her -only pro2)het. That such a man should only 100 years ago have set fashioiialile London in a blaze with his delusions, and won a llarge following, having among them shrewd, intelligent and educated men, is a remarkable phenomenon even in tlie history .of religious fanaticisms. FROM ST. JOHN'S TO EXPLOITS BY THE NORTHERN AND WESTERN RAILWAY— DISTANCE 257J MILES. By far the most interesting railway excursion is Ijy the North- ern and Western Railway now under construction and which has been completed and is now operated to the Exploits River, a distance from the capital of 257^ miles. No tourist will omit •this trip to Exploits which affords a view of the interior ; of its largest rivers and lakes ; of its best lands and forests ; and some of its finest scenery. Along this line, at different points, salmon and trout fishing to any extent can be had ; and after September 15th ptarmigan (willow grouse) and deer shooting. Some of the finest localities for deer-stalking can be reached by this line. J>I^on-residents of the Colony, however, have to pay §100 for a license to kill deer, and not more than five stags and three does can be killed per season. A stop can be made at any of the in- termediate stations for sport or for artistic purposes. The scenery is fresh and novel. At all the principal stations hotel accommo- .dation either has been or will be provided shortly. The carriages are most comfortable, and the road admirably built. There are as yet only two through trains weekly, on Tuesdays and Fridays. Leaving St. John's on these mornings at 10 o'clock, by the ordinary train, Whitbourne is reached in three hours, where .connection is made by the N. & W. Train which reaches its destination at Exploits in about 12 hours. Fare to Exploits from Whitbourne — 1st clast, .$6 ; 2nd class, .^4. For a full account of •this railway — the stations, character of the country, scenery, ifishing, etc., see page Gl to 76. The time-table will be found ;among the advertisements. The following is a Table of Dis- vtances for this railway when completed to Port-aux-Basque : — 28G DIRECTIONS Ff)i; TOrillSTS. TABLE OF DISTANCES — NEWFOUNDtiAXD NORTHERN AND' WESTERN RAILWAY,— MILEAGE APPROXIMATE, FiJOJi St. John's to From St. John's to Whitboiiriie ... Placeiitia Junction .. Chapel Arm and Long Har. Tickle Har. and Pinch Gut Ranteni La Manclie Arnold'.s Cove Conie-By-Chance Northern Bight Clarenville Slioal Harbour Thorljurn Lake Port Blandford, Clode Soui Terra Nova ... Alexander Bay Staticu Gand:)0... Benton, Soulis Broolc Glenwood, Gamier RiN'er Burnt Bay Ouinette, Norris' Arm Bislioii'.s Falls Opposite Grand Falls HOTELS IN ST. JOHN'S. TIr' l)est time for tonrist.s to reacli St. Jolin's is the middle of June. This will give them three months of the best .summer ■weather. Custom House Otticeis are in attendance on the ar- rival of each steamer to examine and pass the passengers' luggage. Cabs also meet the steamers. Fare to the hotels, luggage in- cluded, 50 cents. " The City Hotel," Duckworth Street, near Prescott Street, has been recently enlarged and improved, and now contains from 35 to 40 rooms. It is well managed, clean and comfortable ; table excellent ; attendance good. From the balcony in front a fine view of tlie havliour and city is ol>taineil. Charges : — for a front room with board, ^2 per day ; for other rooms, $1.50 per day. Travellers speak highly of tlie City Hotel. (See advertisement.) ... o7h Badger Brook ... 2961 ... 6U, Lake Bond ... 304 . . 77i Skull Hill Lake ... 3091 . S2i Mary March River ... ... -323 ... 89A Sumnut White Hill Plain ... 330^ ... 9U Falls, Kitty's Brook ... 3491 ... m Grand Lake, Sandy Pon (IRr. 362 ... 107A Junction Brook ... 3661 ... im Head of Deer Lake ... ... 377 ... im Fort ... 3921 ... L361 Riverhead, Bay of Islands... 40;')^ ... 1464 Corner Brook ... 408 lid 154 Birchy Cove ... 4111 ... 167i Spruce B'k, St. George's Pond 429 ... 1S41 Seal Rocks, St. George's 1 Bay 463 ... 192^ Robinson's Head ... 48i; ... 207l Crabb's ... 486 ... 233 Falsh Gulch ... 496 ... 24.') Codroy River ... 5261 ... 2r>7h Little Codroy River ... f.301 ... 2tJSi Cape Ray ... 5424 ... 279 Port-aux-Basques ... 5501 DIIIECTION.S FOR TOURISTS. 28T "Tremont Hotel," 293 Water Street, lias 19 rooms, i.* cen- trally situated and very comfortably fitted \ip. Tra\ellers will find excellent accommodation here, every attention lieing paid to their comforts. Charges, from f 1 to $2 per day acccording to the room occupied. (See advertisement.) "The (JENTR.u, Hotel," Water Street, Avas destroyed in the great fire of 1892. The jjroprietor, Mr. Crosbie, secured tempo- rary premises in George's Street, wliich though unpretentious in apjiearance are always well tilled with guests— a proof of his at- tentions to their comforts. He is now erecting a large new hotel to be opened in November next, in Duckworth Street, a little west of Prescott St. The site is excellent. (Sec advertisement.) " The Atlantic Hotel," a large and very fine building, was Ijurned in the fire of 1892. It has heen rebuilt on a smaller scale, but is not as yet opened. "The Globe Hotel," 454 Water Street West, has 18 rooms,- and is well conducted. Fare, from -$1 to ^2 ]ier day. Those who prefer private lodgings and board can readily obtain such. CONSULS IN ST. JOHN'S. German Empire — Eol)ert H. Prowse ; Italy — Gonsul-General for Newfoundland and Canada — W. J. Fisher ; United States — T. N. Molloy; Brazil— A. 0. Hayward ; Portugal— T. R. Smith ; Spain — Don Antonio Singala ; Sweden and Norway — Robert H. Prowse ; Belgium — H. E. Hayward. CURRENCY. An Act of the Legislature passed in 1887 renders it imperative that all accounts be kept and all moneys paid and received in dollars and cents ; and provides that silver shall be a legal tender up to ^10. It legalizes as current coin of the Colony, British and foreign coins, viz. : the British Sovereign and all its nudtii)les, which shall pass current ibr ^4.80 ; the (jold Eagle of the United States and all its multiples, which shall pass current for 5'9.8r) ;■ British silver coins after the rate lixed for British gold coins. 288 DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. ST. PIERKE AND MIQUELON-TRAVEL ROUTES. The French Islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon can be reached ^from Halifax fortnightly h}^ the steamer Fro Patria, carrying the mails. Agents in Halifax — Cunningham & Curren. This steamer does not call at any Newfoundland jjort. The steamer St. Pierre, as already stated, plies fortnightly be- tween Halifax and Placentia, calling at St. Pierre, and sailing through the beautiful Bras d' Or Lakes, C.B. Tourists who wish to visit St. Pierre can go by this route from Placentia and spend a week in St. Pierre ; or from Halifax can reach St. Pierre, and after a short stay land at Placentia. The steamer Harlaiv from Halifax also calls at St. Pierre, and afterwards at ports on the •western coast of Newfoundland. POSITION OF THE ISLANDS. "We have seen already under what circumstances these islands Avere ceded to France " as a shelter for her fishermen," in 1 763. They are situated at the mouth of Fortune Bay, about 13 miles from the peninsula of Burin the nearest point of Newfoundland, and about equi-distant (135 miles) from Cape Race and Cape Ray. The Island of St. Pierre is seven and a half miles long, five and a half miles wide, and 26 miles in circumference. It contains several lakes, the largest of which is Savoyard, a mile in length. It has several small islands dependent on it, the principal being Isle an Chiens, at the mouth of St. Pierre harbour, on which the fish merchants have built their establishments. Owing to its rocky surface there is but little cultivation. There are a few farms of an inferior grade on the south coast ; but its excellent harljour where the cajiital is built rendex-s it by far the most im- portant of the two islands. DIMENSIONS. Grand Miipielon, about 12 miles in length, was formerly sepa- rated from Petite Miquelon, or Langlade (commonly Langley) ; h\it of late years a sand liar has formed between them and has ;been the scene of many shipwrecks. The latter is more adapted DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. 289 for farming, ami lias 13 farms in a fiiir state of cultivation ; but neither lias a safe harbour. I3IPOKTAXCE TO FKANCE. These islands are of immense importance to France as the basis of her great Bank Fishery. The resident population has increased considerably. The census taken in November, 1892, showed the population of St. Pierre to be 5,10Z ; that of I\Iiquelon 544 ; total 6,247. Of these 3,195 are males and 3,052 females. The average export of fish for eight years ending 1 892 was : Dried cod, 6,504,429 kilos ; green cod, 24,766,014 kilos. The following figures show the rapid increase in the trade of ,St. Pierre :— Value of Exports. S976,113 . 770,755 . 1,718,037 . 2,121,442 . . 3,375,986 . iivnojisis of shijiping for 1887 : No. Vessels. From France . . 802 , Provincial ports . 225 . Date. 1847 1857 1867 1877 1887 Value of Imports, 8509,092 699,293 1,462,521 1,661,383 2,545,654 Tomiage. . 124,447 15,807 Total 1027 . 140,254 The town of St. Pierre lies on the east side of the island. It is the seat of the Governor of the Islands. Two Atlantic cables are landed here. During the fishing season it presents a very busy aspect ; its roadstead often containing hundreds of fishing vessels, while thousands are temi^oraily added to its usual popu- lation. The cliief Ijuildings are the Governor's House ; the Court of Justice ; a large Church, Convent and schools, the Treasury, Post Oflice, Government Provision Store, and Printing office. There are also some handsome private dwellings. The jiotels are the Joiiiville, Pension Hacala, and International House. 290 DIRECTIONS FOR TOURISTS. Tliei'e i.-^ a Cullege, three t^cliools taught by the Brothers, and a girls' school taught by nuns. The sisters are of the Order of St- Joseph of Cluny, a Xursiiig and Educational Order. All the hospital nursing is under their charge. Altogether St. Pierre is a highly interesting little town — unique in character, and the tourist will find much to attract liini, not only in the place itself but in tlie customs and manners of the residents and the fishermen. CHAPTKR XVI. SPORT IN NEWFOUNDLAND. A GOOD FIELD FOR SPOK.S3IEN. It is nut necfssaiy, tor the piui)Oses of this book, to (liscourse .at auv ureat k-ngtli on Sport in NL-wfoiuulIaml, l)eyon(I wliat has ItefU already said incidentally in jjrevious chapters. That Newfoundland presents to the lovers of sport attractions such as lew otlier countries possess is admitted Ijy all who have given it a trial. Its countless lake.s and lakelets abound with trout of the finest ilescription, and are the abodes of the v, ild goose, the wild duck and other fresh water fowl. The willow grouse or ])tarniigau {Lafjopus alhmi) the rock ptarmigan, the x;urlew, the plover, the snipe are found, in the proper sea.^ou, all jjver the i.slaud, on the great " barrens," or in the marshy grouiid.s ill immense numbers. The sea - pigeons and guiriemots, or "murrs" or "turrs" as they are called in the vernacular are .seen .all around the shores and islands. The large Arctic hare, and the North-American hare, called erroneously by the natives a " rabbit," are to be met with, — especially the latter — in great alnuidance. The American hare i.s not indigenous, Init some twenty years ago, a few pair were brought from Nova Scotia and let loose. They have thriven and spread to such a wonderful extent that they have reached nearly ever}- part of the island, and in the fall and winter form an important item in the food of the working classes. Above all, the noble caribou or deer, in vast herds, traverse the island in periodical migrations fioiu south to north, and furnisli the highest prize-s for the .sportsman. Finer salmon streams than those of the island naturally are — or rather were — could not be found elsewhere ; Init as described in the chapter on the fisheries, they have been left unprotecteil, and ignorant and reckless greed has almost destroyed rivers that once 292 SPORT IX NEWFOUNDLAND. abounded in the "Monarch of tlie brook." Already, under tlic restorative measures introduced by the Department of Fisheries and the protective rules and regulations enforced by wardens, a marked improvement has taken place, and in a few years the streams will recover their former abundance. Even now there are places where the salmon-fisher may find excellent sport. For more adventurous sportsmen there are the black bear and the wolf in the interior ; while the beaver and otter are found there around the lonely lakes and ponds. Xow that these sjiorting regions are rendered accessible to some extent Ijy raihvays, sports- men are arriving in increasing numbers from other lands. PTARMIGAN ABUNDANT. The finest sport perhaps is ptarmigan — shooting which com- mences September 15th — -Ijefore which date it is illegal, and terminates January 12th. These fine birds are quite equal to the Scotch grouse, and resemble them so closely that it is difii- cult to make out any specific difference between the red grouse, gorcock or moorcock of Scotland and those of Newfoundland. As a table bird they are unsurpassed in richness and delicacy of flavour. Ill September, after feeding on the wild berries, they ai'e in excellent condition. In certain localities, and at some distance from settlements, they are very plentiful. In winter they become pure white. WILD GEKSE AND DUCKS, CUKLEW, ETC. The wild goose breeds in the most secluded ponds and brings lier young ones down the brooks early in July, when they are full grown. Tlie Idack duck, the finest of all table birds, is- abundant in certain localities. The plover and curlew ai'e so j)lentiful that sportsmen only fire at them when a shot at a flock can be obtained. They are bred on the shores of Labrador, and after feeding on the wild berries they arrive in Newfoundland- almost balls of fat and in flavour peculiarly delicious. The wild goose is a remarkably fine bird, easily domesticated but does not breed when tamed. It crosses readily with the tame goose, the result being the mongrel goose so esteemed by ej)icures. SrOKT L\ NEWFOUNDLAND. 29o- DEEK STALKING. The caribou or reindeer are finer tliaii those of .wliich Norway and Lapland can boast, being niucli hirger and carrying far finer antlers. Stags have been often shot which weighed from 500 to 600 lbs. The antlers of the stag are pahnated, sweeping back- ward and of magnificent projjortions, the brow antlers meeting over the nose, like a pair of hands clasped in the attitude of prayer. These horns are shed in Xovendjer. Their migrations are as regular as the seasons, from the south where they pass the winter to the north-western portions of the island where they feed and bring forth their young. When the October frost begin to nip the vegetation they turn toward the south and repeat their long march. September and Octoljer are the months for deer- shooting. Some knowledge of the country and the assistance of Mic-Mac Indians are requisite. There are favourite hunting grounds known to the initiated and to the Indian guides, where deer stalking can be enjoyed to perfection. One of the best of these is the "barrens" overlooking Grand Lake, opposite the northern end of the island. Here tliev collect in large heixls before setting out on their southern -migration. The "White Hills" in the neighbourhood of Hall's Bay, an arm of Notre Dame Bay, is another favoiu-ite stalk ing-grouud. Inland from various settlements on the southern shore, in the late autumn and early winter, great numbers of deer are slain. At times the St. John's market is over-stocked in winter with carcases of venison brought by the steamer from this quarter. The cpiarters are often sold for five to ten cents per pound. Formeidy deer- stalking was expensive sport as it was ditficult to reach the interior ; but railways as they open up the country will aid the sportsman in reaching the desired locality and lessen the expense. Indians are almost indispensable in these excursions. I.ORD DUNKAVEN. Lord Dunraven in " The Nineteenth Centiiry for January, 1881," gave an account of a deer-shooting excursion he made in this island. He found it " a good field for exploration and sport." He said "the caribou are plentiful, and the Newfoundland stags 294 KPORT IX NEWFOUNDLAND. are finti- l»y far tliau any to be found in any portion of the Xortli- Anierican Continent/' "Fur is ])retty j^lentil'ul ; wild fowl and grouse abundant ; and tlie creeks and rivers are full of salmon and trout.'' In "Forest Life in Acadia," by Captain Hardy, R. A., the author s-ays : — " I know of no country so near England which .offers the same amount of inducement to the explorer, naturalist or sportsman as Newfoundland. To one who combines the ad- vantages of a good in'actical knowledge of geoloL!;y with the love ..of .sport the interior of this great island, much of which is (piite unknown, may indeed pi'o\"e a field of valualjle and remunera- tive discovery, for its mineral i'e.sources are unquestionably of vast importance." " The caribou are scattered more or less abundantly over an area of some 25,000 s(|uare miles of un- bi'oken wilderness." APPENDIX No. 1. ERRATUM. Pago 27S, line 3, lof " 1,200 Hi-. ri)]i]n'r to tlie iiiiK; in tliu new Anglo-American Cal lie," read " 050 Uis." The nnniliei- <it' word:^ iier minute transmissible over this ealjle has yet to be determined liy actual exiK-rimeiit. While some anticiiiate 120 words on the duplex principle, oi' 00 each way, the less sanguine reckon on 90 ])er minute, duplex, or 45 each way ]ier minute. The latter calcvdation is more likely to jimve cdrrect. The cost of the imw caVile is about half a million of dollars. STOCK EXt'HANGKfS. Perhaps tie most wonderful feat yet jierfornied on the A^glo- American Cables is the transmission of intelligence between the Stock Exchanges of New York and Loudon while business i;-; proceeding. A special cable is appropriated to tlieii- use 'luring tive hours each day. The prices of stock are flashed l.iotli ways, so that a broker in New York can liuy stock in London a~ jvadily as if he were one of the shouting crowd in the Exchange, and vice versa. Answers are received in from two to four miinitcs, .so that instruction.s to lu-okers on either side are tr.insmitted in this brief interval, while the auction is jiroceeding, and fortune:j won or lost in a few seccjuds. Xiue-teiiths of this exchange busi- ness is transacted over the Anglo-American caltles, — a fact which sutticiently atte.sts their superioi- accura(.'y and speed. THE IMPROVED GRAVNEL. A grapnel is now in u.se on board the Cable Ship Miiiui, Capt. Trott, for picking up cables re<|uiring repairs, which would seem to be endowed with almo.-t human intelligence. The monieiit the 296 APPENDIX. cal)le is caught tlie grapnel ring.-; a l.iellou 1)uaril the .-liiji, intimat- ing " I have got him." At the same time, ^^^ an ingenious airange- iiient, it cuts the cable and firmly gra.sps tli,e end tliJit is wanted, leaving the other to l)e picked up at'terwai'ds. Tlien the hauling in process begins, and from the depth it may lie of two miles, the grapnel soon appears at the surface of the water, holding in its death-like grip the end of tlie cable. Armed with such an imjdenient Captain Trott the ablest cal)le engineer now living, is aide to perform marvellous feats. LENGTHS OF CABLES. The following figures show the length.s of the caliles : — The Anolo-Americax Co's Cables. Laid. Between. Nl. lus. 1873 — Ireland and Newfoundland .... 1,881 " — Newfoundland, rid St. Pierre & Cape Breton 293 2,-174 1874— Ireland and Newfoundland .... 1,840 1873— Newfoundland and Sydney, C. B. . . 343 2,183 1880— Ireland and Newfoundland .... 1,886 " — Newfoundland, ria St. Pierre & Cape Breton 360 2,246 1869— France and St. Pierre 2,648 « _St. Pierre and Massachu.setts, U. S. . . 759 3,407 The Direct Uxited States Co'.s Cables. 1874— Ireland and Nova Scotia .... 2,423 " — Nova Scotia and New Hampshire, V. S. . 560 2,983 Compagnie Fraxcai.se Paris a New York Cables. 1879— France and St. Pierre 2,242 » _St. Pierre and Cape Breton .... 188 " — St. Pierre and Massachussets, U. S. . . 827 3,25r A1'J"KNI>IX. 297 The Westehx Union Co's Carles. 1881— England nu.l Nova Scotia .... 2,531 1882— England and Xova Scotia .... 2,576 The ("ommerciai. Go's Cables. 1884— Ireland and Xova Scotia .... 2,350 " —Xova Scotia and New York, U. S. . . 841 3,181 " — Ireland and Xova Scotia .... 2,388 1885 — Xova Scotia and Ma.s-acli assets, U. S. . . 519 2,907 1894 — Conimeicial Cal>le : l)n])licate of the previous one. Sliare — Capital of Companies. Anglo- American . . S35,000,000— Each lino . $'8,750,000 Direct United States . 6,400,000 " " . 6,400,000 Conipagnie Fran^aise . 8,400,000 " " . 8,400,000 "Western Union . . 14,000,000 " " . 7,000,000 Commercial . . . 8,00u,000 " " . 4,000,000 APPEXDIX Xo. II. SCEIVERY OF THE KAY OJP ISLAINTDS. A lady tourist who last year vi.'^ited the Bay of Islands in the 8. .s. Harlav.\ wrote as follows of the scenery : — "As we approach this romantic bay, the magnificent scenery of the coast caix scarcely be described in terms to do even faint justice to its merits. Great cliffs tower up above the ship, which the deep soundings allow to approach ami steam for hours not a cable's length from the shore. Hundreds of small bays indent the coast, Avhile some take a majestic sweep inland, unveiling in- nuruerablc i>les ami lovely beaches. Hour after hour we pass lM)8 AI'I'ENDi: fi 'flies iiinl lain Iscaj H's wliicli giailiuilly iiiitolded tliemst-lve? to our dcliglited xisioii as ven-y gliiii])ses of fairv-lainl ; but tliere wcri' grauik'i- to coun'. Eaily next iiioniiiig we were on deck, and wonls cannut desrriln' the gl(ji-i()Us sight ]ireseuted. Before iH was the Bay of IsUuids i-ohcd in all tlie magic colouring of an early snniinei- inoining— a \ista of mountains capi)ed with snow, fantastic peaks, ditf on clitf rising .sheer from 2,000 to 2,500 feet, great chasms hetweeii columns of rocks wliicli looked like the walls of some vast temple. From some of the precipices waterlalls, formed hy tlie melting snow away up, tumliled in i'liaming beauty down the steep.'' A dvertise^nenfs. jljIl JiL ..A \ A )-)) I \J9 WHOLESALE AND RETAIL lirP©KTEES DEY GOODS, BOOT S S' SHOES , GEO C FRIES, PROMSIO^S, and HARDWARE. T T 7"?] keep one of the largest stocks iu the Iskiul and can V V always suljniit a good assortment. Our prices are low and cannot be beaten. Visitors and travcdlcrs will find it advan- tageous to purchast' from us. Fishing Tackle & Sporting Goods 0-0<K>-C>-0-0-0-0-0-<>-0 c ^Gti^I? ^S^^^^^i; -^^^^ -^ %-6, )hTi^Q, EVERY ONE KNOWS WHERE. Advertisements. VJ ii IMPORTER AND DEALER IN ^ r, Provisions, Groceries, Fish and Oil. Our Special Lines CHOICE BO.YELESS BEEF, CHOICE BEEF CUTTLXGS, CHOICE FAMILY FLOUR. Wonderful Value in Teas! Orders by Letter have careful and prompt attention. 379, 381, and 383, WATER-ST., ST. JOHN'S, NEWFOUNDLAND. Adrn-fisfj/inif>: JOB BROS. & CO., GENERAL IMPORTERS, Water-St, St. John's, N.F, DEPARTMENTS : Dry Goods, Groceries, Hard\vare, Store Goods, And Naval Stores. Exporters of Fish, Cod a /id Seal Oil^ Seal Skins, Lohsters, AjYB GEjYEBAL pboduce. iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii Apiits " Royal" Iflsiiraiice CoiiipEy, (OF LIVERPOOL), ipimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiip JOB BROTHERS. Mersey Chambers, Old Churchyard, Liverpool. J Advertisement^^. COL-IN R. CAMPBELL. GEORGE SMITH. CiPBELL & IITH, (Foii.MKKi.v McDoL'fi.M.r, & t'.\Mi r.Kr.i.), BROKERS. COMMISSION MER- CHMTS& AUCTIONEERS, Si J(iliii\ - - Nfwfiiiiiii iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii >Special atteiitiou paid to slapping and fo /•war ding Goods of all liinds. Sale and purchase of Bread, Stuffs and Provisions. ^^IFRUITS-Dry and Greeri'- 1^ Codfish and Oils, LoJjstei's, Salmon Herring, Etc., etc. iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii H ^U H, V and all kinds of P.E.I. Produce. Adcertisements. LTj General Coinmission Merchants Steamship Agents, ACCENTS F(3K '^Uan Line §l;eaiiierc -Mr SAILIMf EVEIIY FOIlTNiGHT BETWEEN THIS FORT AND BRITAIN. AGENTS FOU Ross & Dobeil Lines Steamers, SAII.fXd THRiiUimnUT THE HEAXoX BETWEEN MoXTllEAL, i'HAHLOTTETOlVN, P. E. I., ANT) THIS PORT. Advertisements. Iw !il, Nlli, and Ha STEAMSHIP COMPANY. iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiir Red Cross Line iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiijiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii S, S, SILVIA, S, S, PORTIA, lllllllllllllllilllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllMIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIMIIIIII! Sailing at intervals of about ten days from New York, calling at Halifax, St John's, Nfld., and occasionally, Pilley's Island, Ntld. iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiimii Attractive Toiuist Route! First Glass Passeucfer Acconmioclatiou. I III 11 II III III 1 1 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 n 1 1 III 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 II I nil 1 1 1 n I III 1 1 III I III ill 1 1 1 1 1 II For iuforniatinn regaiMling freight or passage, apply to ■C. F. BOirRIXG S Co Liverpool. BOWRL\Cr <§. :dRCHIB::iLD,Xew York, F. D. CORBETT & Co. Halifax. H.^lPiJFY & Co. ^y. John's. .Mfd. BOU'RIXa BIW^S. .... Sr. John's, XJld. Advertisements. STEAMERS: Bonavista, Cob an, Loiiisburg, Cacoima, Cape Breton. QTE.^MEBS of this Line sail from Mon- treal at iutercals of a iveek, caUinc/ (it Cliarlottetowiu P.E. Jslaii(L Siidneij, C.B., and St. Jo/in's, X. F. The St. Lawrenee route affords tourists one of t/ie most de- lightful trips in the ivorld. While euJo//iur/ the advantages of a sea voj/age. the traveller is out of sight of land onlij a few hours be- tween Montreal and St. John's, X.F. For inlbnnatioii i-i'ganliiig freight or pnspage, apply to PEAKE, BROTHERS & Co., Charlottetown, P. E. I. DOMINION COAL COMPANY, Sydney, C. B. HARVEY & Co., St. John's, Newfoundland. Adccrtisfmcnt>. I.F.('§iislalSli'iiiiislii|i('(i., (LIMITED). H. S. " GRAM) LAKE," S. 8. " VIRGINIA LAKE," S. S. "WINDSOR LAKE," Under Contract with the Government for the Conveyance of Mails. s'. Vu-fn,la 1 .-'> ,1- u ill ih I. '!.- irill /,' fu- Xnrtir', ' ■•■■ s:. .1 „',„■, '-^"'"' I't <. Tuesday, April 24 Tuesday, May 8 Tuesday, May 22 Tuesday, June 5 Tuesday, June 19 Tuesday, July 3 Tuesday, July 17 Tuesday, July 31 Tuesday, Aug. 14 Tuesday, Aug:. 28 Tuesday, Sept. 11 Tuesday, Sept. 25 Tuesday, Octr. 9 Tuesday, Oct. 23 Tuesday, Nov. 6 Tuesday, Nov. 20 Tuesday, Dec. 4 Tuesday, Dec. 18 Monday, Dec. 31 oo s'. N. CiiuiiJ hdr irill /rt(;v St. Jiihn's for ]Vi:-<tt<ni (Intjiiirtf. Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, Saturday; Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, Saturday, April 21. May 5. May 19. June 2. June 16. June 30. July 14. July 28. Aug-. 11. Aug-. 25. Sept. 8. Sept. 22. Oct. 6. Oct. 20. Nov. 3. Nov. 17. Dec. 1. Dec. 15. Dec. 29. ■" On these trips the Steamer goes as f-ir as Battle Harlior, lOiiiie^tiiig with Labrador Steamer. Advertisements. NEWFOUNDLAND KAILWA\-STATION8 AND FAKKS. 8t. John's to Dmni.siiiere ... 7 H)iles...lst Class .s0 3'....2nd Class .?0 20 Irvine ... 10 " ... " 50... 30 Tojisail ... 15 " ... " 0(30... 4;-. ISEaiiuels ... IS " ... 70... 50 Kelligrews ... 2i " ... " OtiO... 60 Seal Cove ... "27 " ... " 1 00... 75 Durs ... 2^ '• ... 1 00... 75 Holvrood ... 33 •' .. " 1 20... 90 Woo.lfonl ... 3o " ... 1 3o... 1 00 Salmon Cove ... SSi " ... '• 1 .^.0... 1 10 Brigus.Jnnetiou.47i " ... " 180... 130 Hodge Water " ... " 1 90 . " 1 40 Whitboiiriie ... ■")7i '" ... " 2 00... ] 50 Blaketown ... ti2 " ... " 2 2,1... 1 65 Broail Cove ... 66A " ... " 2.o0... 1 70 SpaiiM's Bay R'd 7t> " ... " 2.o0... 1 70 Triton ' ... 79 '•' ... " 2.50... 1 70 Harbor Grace ...83^ " ... " 2 .-,0... 1 70 Chi Idren under 12, half-priee ; ■diildren under 't (one L-hild onl; >• and ill anus ), with jiarent or servant, free. E.^c •ursion rates : one single tirst-elass fare. NEWFOUNDLAND NOKTHEIJN AND WESTEKN RAILWAY— .STATION. S AND FAIIE.S. Whithourue to Plaeentia .J'etion 7 miles .1st Cla.ss i<Q 40 .2nd Class -SO -30 " . " 60. " 40 " . " 75. " 55 " . " 100. " 70 " . " 1 05 . " 75 " . "1 25 . " 80 ''■ . "1 50 . " 1 00 '• . " 185. " 120 2 25 . " 1 .''.0 " . "2 35 . " 1 55 " . " 2 65. " 175 " . " 2 90. " 190 " . " 3 30. " 2 20 " . " 3 80. " 2.50 " . "4 05 . " 2 70 " . " 4 47 . " 2 98 " . >' 5 25. " 3 50 " . " 5 70 . " 3 80 6 00. " 4 00 ehildren under 5 (one ehild only and in arms), with parent or servant, Iree. PLACENTIA RAILWAY— STATIONS AND FAKES. Wliitboiirue to I'la 'eiitia .J'etion 7 miles .1st Class .SO 40 .2nd Class -SO 30 Ville Marie ... 7 " . '' 70. " 60 Dunnville " . "1 00 . " 75 I'laeentia ... 27 " . " 1 00 . " 75 Children under 12,- half-priee ; children under 5 (one child only and in arms), with parent or servant, free. Long Harl.)or . .. 14 Tickle Harbor. .. 25 Rantem .. 32 La Manche .. 34 Arnold's Cove . .. 42 Come-by -chanc e 50 Northern Bight . 62 Clarenville .. 75 Shoal Harbor .. .79 Thorburn Lake . 89 Clode Sound .. .87 Terra Nova .. .110 Alexander Bay .127 Ganibo .135 Benton .149 Gander River . .175 Ouinette .190 " E.\]iloits 200 Children under 12, half-jiriee ; AdrrrtisemcntH. ANCLO-AIIIICIN TELECIUFII fO'I. OFFICE JlOl'ItS : S.;')0 A M. TO P. M. SXAXIONS. yt. Jolm'.s. CVutral Station : Foran's E\-chan;j;t.- Buililiiis^s. Fnst Ottice Station. " Hnvlestown Station. LOCAL, TARIFF, Bay Bulls, Ca]ie Broyli', F(?rrylanil, Ca]>liii Bay, Renews, Fernieuse, Trei)assey, Brigus, Blade River, Long Haalior, Conn River, Bay-du-Noni, White Bear Bay, Biirgeo, ill Bay Rol>erts, Harl)or Grace, Carbonear, Heart's Content, Wliitbourne, Plaeentia, Ranteni, Rose Blanc La Poile, Channel, Trinity, Catalina, Bonavista, if FOREIGN TARIFF. Cape Breton, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick Ontario and Quebec Maine ... New England States, P. E. I. and New York City . Great Britain and France Germany Spain (Barcelona via France and Marseilles Cable). Spain fall other places) ... Portugal Italy, Sicily, Sardinia ... Norway Pernanibuco Rio de Janeiro ... Bahia 10 words. Aildl word. i'T 00 ami 9 cts. 1 or, " 10 cts 1 15 " 11 cts. 1 2.5 " 11 cts. 'i5 cts. per word. •25 " 38 " 40 " -39 " 32 " 35 " 55 " '•' 66 " " 66 " " To calcnlate the cost of a message to Barbadoes, multiply ^2.21 by number of words, and add 75 to total. If over ten words, add eight cent's to the 75 for each word over the ten. Ni>TK, — Words over ten letters count as two words. Adcciii^^cmcnts. Union Bank of Newfoundland, T FORTIETH ANNUAL REPORT. HE Directors have ]ileasiire in siibiiiittiug to tlii' Propiietors the Fortieth Annual Report ami the Alistraet Statement of the affairs of the Bank, for the year ending :Jlst May, 1S!)4. The net Profits for the year, alter all deductions for ex]ieiises of man- agement, reljate on local bills discounted not yet <lue, comjiuted interest on deiiosit receipts oiitstamling, and allowing for all bad and doulitful debts, arc $8(5,475.16 ; making, witli *9,-244.B:J balance at credit of Profit and Loss Account last year, a total for ilistril)ution of ■S'!)r),719-7!', which your Directors have a|i]>ro])riateil as follows, viz. : — For Diviilend of G ]ier cent, paid in Decemi)er last ... ... •'S27,3ri0 00 For Dividend of ti per cent, to be i>aid on "^Oth instant ... 27,3fiO 00 For a Bonus of -S'S per share to be jjaid on "iOth instant ... 13,680 00 To Reserve Fund -20,000 00 Leaving a Ijalant'e at credit of Profit and Loss A'-count of ... 7,319 79 •'?9.".,719 79 GENERAL STATEMENT. I>I.\BILITIKS. I'o Proprietors' capital ... •' Reserve Fund " Profit and Loss (undivided ]irotit) ... " Bank Notes in cii'culation ... " Due by Bank, including deposits at interest, jiayable iu .Jan'y and July only on receiving 1.') (Uiys' notice ... " Dividend No. 78, of (i ])er I'ent. for half-vear ending 30th November, 1893 ... '...$27,360 00 " Diviilend No. 79, of ti ))er cent, for half-vear ending 31st May, 1894 ' ... 27,360 00 " Bonus No. 36, of ■S'3 jier share, for half-vt'ar ending .31.st Mav, 1894 ' ... 13,680 00 $4.16,000 00 320,000 00 7,319 79 616,080 00 3,01."., 30.') .59 •'>^6S,400 00 Less Dividend to 30th Novcndjcr la.st paid . 27,360 00- ASSETS. l^y Specie, in Vault of flic Bank " Notes of other Baulks " Bills disi-ounted, loans, X'c. " Balances due by Banks and funds availalile in 1.") • " Bank pruniises, iron safes and fiii'nitnrc ... 41,040 00 .$4, 4. v.. 74.". 38 .sl9ii,974 82 517 00 2,881,671 72 1,360,.-.81 84 16,000 00 .$4,4.-'.:. 745 38 St .lolm's, 31.st -May, 1894. (\ s. i'i\si:\r, y Advertisements. C ottuucvcirtl Paul; of ^Iflil ST. JOHN'S, NEWFOUNDLAND. Established 1857. [Incorporated 1858. Capital - - - %jo6,ooo (In Shares of $200 each.). Reserve - - - $110,000 [/nap. to Ci'. of P, & L. 12,1 16 Collections made on favorable terms. AfiENTS :- — London — The Lomlon an<l Westniinstci' Bank, (Ltd). Liverpool — The Bank of Liverpool, (Limiteil). Ntiv York — The National Bank of the Republic ; Bo.sfon — The Atlas National Bank ; Montreal — The Merchant's Bank of Canaila ; Quebec — Tlie Merchant's Bank of Canada; Halifnx — The Union Bank of Halifax ; St. Pierre., MrV^?(c/o?i— Banijue des lies. HENRY COOKE, - - - Manager. H, D. CARTER, - - Chief Accountant, V Advertisements. WILLIAM J. CLOUSTON, [East Corner Market House Hill] WATER STREET, ST. JOHN'S, N. F. MANUFACTURER OF AND DEALER IN All kinds of Tinware, Iron, Stoves, Enamelled Wares, (Stc. JOBBING PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO. Commission Merchants AND WHOLESALE DEALERS IN PROVISIONS AND SPIRITS. -AGENTS FOR- COLGATE'S STERLING SOAP. AND MANUFACTURERS RIIVJEST QUALITY BUTXERIIVJE. Advertisements. (tmltal iiiiiiiiii!iiij|iiii!iiiiiii;ijiiii!i!iii:iiiiiiiii!iiiiiii;iiiiijiiii[|jiiiiiiiiii;i:ijin:iiiiiiiin Oeors^ street, (Near the General Post Office). G. G. CROSBIE, - - - Proprietor, iiiiii;ii!iiiiiiiiiiiililiiiiiiiii:iiJiij;iiiiiiiiiiiil<iii!i;i;i!iiiiliiii!lilil!liiiiii!n EXCELLENT accommodation to travellers guaranteed, and the utmost attention paid to their comforts. Rooms well fuinished and commodious. Near the busiest part of the city, i^^ The New Central Hotel, Duckworth-St., near Prescott-St., is in course of erection, and will be the largest and finest Hotel in St. John's. IIJI1llll!lllllllllllllllllll!l!l!IJI11lii:iIliiillililJ!l!l!llll|[|;iililllllllllllllii;illli:i!i!|[MIIIII^^ DUCKWORTH STREET, ST. JOHN'S. Mrs. G. WALSH, - Proprietress. iiiiiiiii!iii!iii!iiiiiiiiii:niiiiiiiiii[ifiii;iiiiiiiiiiiin!iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii;iiiiiii!iiiii!iin^ THIS Hotel has been enlarged and refitted, and is now con- sidered the best in Newfoundland. It is lighted by elec- tricity ; with hot and cold water baths ; smoking and reading rooms ; is near the business places ; and commands a picturesque view all over the city. It is within three minutes walk of all Passenger Steamships. Tlie " City" is known as the " House " (jf Comuiercial Travellers. Gentlemen visiting St. John's would do Avell to stay at this Hotel. A brancli of the General Post Office is also kept in the same building. AdvertisemeTits. cj Dum ^ J GENERAL MERCHANT, St. John's, - Newfoimdland. All descriptions of British, Amer- ican and Foreign kept in stock in our various depart- ments. Codfisli, Cod Oil, Sahnoit, Herring, Lobsters, &€., &c., PURCHASED AT HIGHEST CURRENT RATES. INSUEANCE : Advertisements . Telephone Address : " L,EDINGHAM." Terra Nova Foundry, Engine and Boiler Works. WATER STREET EAST. pKG-IKEB and Boilers, of all descrip- tions, for marine and land purposes, on stock and made to order. Heavij smith -work executed loith powerful Steam Hammers. Castings of all descrip- tions, in Iron or Brass, got up on the shortest notice. Mill work of cdcry description exe- cuted. Shafting, Pulleys, Rangers, Leather and BuMer Beltings, Iron Piping, and Fit- tings in Iron or Brass, kept in stock. Public and Private Buildings heated by Steam or Hot Water. Bepairs to Hulls and Machi- nery of disabled Steamers a speciality — executed afloat or on Dry Dock, to which the Subscribers has full access for such work. liS=^ Competent Engineers, Boilermakers and Coppersmitlis, always on hand to at- tend Steamship, Mill and Factory Bepairs. Advertisements. WlG.Rendell, Water Street, St. John's, Newf oundl'd. IP^topett^ anb Commis^ sion Hgents, -AGENTS FOE THE- OF LONDON. Importers of, and Dealers In, all descriptions of Paints, Oils, &, Roofing Material. Adfertisements. West End Drug Store! M. Connors, Proprietor. A lai'ge ;ui(l varied stock of Drugs, Medicines and Perfumery, Paints, Oils, Varnishes, &c., constantly on hand. Newest Garden Seeds in Stock. Prescriptions carefully compoundefl, and their prejiaration re- ceives personal and prompt attention. Medicine Chests supplied and re-fitted at shortest notice. 358 - WATER STREET WEST. - 358 WILLIAM COOK, 278 AVATKK STIIKET, ST. JOHN'S, NEWFOUNDLAND. 278 HOUSE AND SHIP BUTCHER. Vegetables, Meats, and Ships' Stores. \* Ships' letters addressed to my care delivered immediately on arrival. SATISFACTION GUARANTEED. z. cox, 347 . Water Street, St. John's, Newfoundland. - 347 GENERAL IMPORTER of Provisions, Groceries, etc.— FLOUR, BEEF, PORK, TEAS, JAMS, BISCUITS, SYRUPS and FANCY GROCERIES ; FRUITS and VEGETABLES, when in season. OUTFOKT OKDEKS RECEIVE PROMPT ATTENTION, Advertisements. GENERAL IMPORTER. |!III1llllll111llll11l!li;illlllil1ill11ll1IIIII1llll111ITi:iTlllil1IIII1llil1!nil!IIIIHII!lli Largest importer of Ready-iiiade Garments in tlie Colony. iiiiriiiii I ill 1 1 1 1 1 1 III 1 1 III 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 III 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 iiiiiiiiiiii III 1 1 III HI! s-e>^ T^ e:gii t^p e<S--<i- li>3 ©<^n2) &q)^ The Universal Provider to theWork- ingmen of the City and Fishermen of the Country, the great Bargain House of St. John's. iiiiiii I mill I iiiii III 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 iiiii 1 1 1 1 1 1 II I II 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 II I II 1 1 1 1 1 1 ill 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 III 1 1 111 II Ki/Ier of Big Profits! iiiriiiiiiiiiiLiiiiiiiMiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiin^^^^^^^ Dry Goods, Groceries & Provisions. i 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i 11 1 1 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 ill 1 1 1 1 1 1 11 1 i 1 1 1 ill 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 II li i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 III I iiiiiiiii 371 - Water Street - 371 ST. JOHN'S, NEWFOUNDLAND, Aifrfrfiiifinenf.s. tTremont Ibotcl! <Km>«-(>^<-0-«-<>^-»-0-<>-0-*<-0-«-9-0-»-9-^«-0-0-Ch><<k><-<>«^<^^ WATER-ST., - ST. JOHN'S, N.F. (O'DWVEH'S BLOCK). Mrs. McGRATH, - Proprietress. TRANSIENT and pei'iuaneut boank'is accuiuiiioilated upon reasonable terms. The Tremont House ccjiitains large well-ventilated, nicely t'urnished rooms, also commodious bath-rooms, and is centrally situated, being near tlie business places of the city. The patronage of the tiavelling ])ub]ic is i-espectfuUy solicited. Every satisfaction guaranteed, and all oi'ilers attended to at the most i-easonable rates. •S^^- "NEWFOUNDLAND: THE OLDEST BRITISH COLONY • I'rire S^.oH. - pp. ^'JIJ. Bv Joseph Hatton and Rev. M. Harvky, LL. D. London : Cliapnian and Hall, 1883. .All .■uliiiirabk' arconnt of the oldest British Colony. — Fnrtnighthi Ueciev). No more interesting work has ever come under our notice than this. — Knropean Mail. By far the most fOm])lete ac-^ouiit of Newfoundland that has yet .•i]>l)eared. — fA'tirl'm Daily Xewft. The story of Newfoundland is told so attrai-tively and completely tliat we doubt if it will ever require retelling. It may be supplemented lint not su]3erseded. — Land and Water. An adnnrable book. — Londnn Academi/. X\\ interesting ami well-written work. — Pall Mall Gazette. Tlie best account of Newfoundland ever printed. — NeAV Yorl: Herald. "TEXT-BOOK OF NEWFOUNDLAND HISTORY. ' Price Fifty -five cents. By Rev. M. Harvey, LL.D. (Second Edition.) London and Glasgow : W. Collins & Co., 1890. "WHERE ARE WE AND WHITHER TENDING?' Price Fifty cents. By Rev. M. Harvey, LL.D. London : Trubner & Co., 1886. While admitting that the pessimist can readily find a certain justifi- cation of his views in the many dark and discouraging facts of human existence, the author still believes that there are ample grounds for hold ing human progress to be a grand reality. —Westminster Revievx Cheerful in tone and iiO])nlar in style. — Saturday Review. The questitui is discussed with much point and acumen. — Scotsman. The author is the happy possessor of a well-furni.shed nund. He ilis- plays an acquaintance with ancient and modern history, with literature anil philosoph}', with science and .statistics, which would be creditable in a,ny man. and is somewhat surprising in a citizen of St. John's, New- foundland. The result is an eminently readable book. — Olasgovj Herahl. A fresh \igorously written book. — Uyiited Presbyterian Magazine. The lectures well rejiay jicrusal. — Liverpool Courier. The work displays great scholarship. — Kirkndbright Advertiser. The lectures are brilliantlv w-ritten. — New York Churchman. "UNDER THE GREAT SEAL." .\ thrilling History of Newfoundland in the days of the Fishing Adndrals. By Joseph Hatton ; Author of ^' By Orde)- of the Czar," " Clytic," etc. London : Hntcheson k Co., 1893. Printed by J. W. Withers, Queen's Printer, At St. John's, Newfoundland. UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY AA 000 928 666 7