"^+mr %m ^ ->> V £? ■& ifei ^E-UBRARYO? 1BRARY6K ^OFCALIFOfyj ,5tfEUNIVEk ^OJIWD-JO^ — r f , ^WEUNIVER^/a ^lOSANCElfjv. ^OFCALIFO/?^ soi^ "%i3ain[hwv v %Aavaain^ JBRARYQ^ ^•UBRARYQ^ ^WEUNIVERi'/A %OiH %OJnV3-JO^ iir I'nn -rnr. ^iWDNV-SOl^ "%3AIM 3\\V ^WEUNIVER% ^lOSANGElfr.* ^.OFCAUFOfy* rjNvsoi^ ^/miM-it^ y 0Aava8n-# y o ^•IIBRARY^ ^ELIBRARYQ^ %):MV>:iO V AWEUNIVERS/a oe •„ v\nSAMf.FI^ j.OFfAIIFDJ?,*/. y o\mm ,<\WEVN!VER% <\WEUNIVER%. ^lOSANGc |i^j ]AlNfl3^ ^lOSAf v/smm Osl-WmYO/; ^OffALIFO^ m\n& ^•LIBRARY/ IIBRARYQ^. %)JI1V3 ^/OJIWD-JO^ UNIVERS//, icr*nrrih. tlfr r LIFE IN THE MOFUSSIL . OR, THE CIVILIAN IN LOWER BENGAL. 1:\ \.\ EX-CIVIL I W II:- VOL. J. London : C. Kegan Paul & Co., i, Paternoster Square. 1.S78. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. VOYAGE OUT. The Start for India— The Siren — Death on Board — The Shark — Arrival in the Hooghly — The Ardent Lover — On Shore at Last CHAPTER II. LIFE AS A STUDENT IN CALCUTTA. Spence's Hotel — Fresh Eggs — Examinations in Native Lan- guages — The Baital Punshabinshati — The " Chummery " — A Calcutta Day in the Hot Weather— The Mall— North- westers— Competition Wallahs — Theatricals — Our Dinner Party — Dissolution of " Chummery" ■ — Clubs — Snipe Shooting — Take Leave of Calcutta CHAPTER III. JOURNEY UP COUNTRY. Bhaugulpore — A Mofussil Bungalow — Happy-go-lucky Progress to Patna — Stay at Patna 54 CHAPTER IV. LIFE AS ASSISTANT MAGISTRATE AND COLLECTOR A2 MOZUFFERPORE. Journey Across the Ganges — Dak Bungalow — Drive to Mozuf- ferporc — Find my Quarters Lonely — First Visit to Cutchcrry, and Investment in Office — First Case — Chuprassies — Intro- LIB SETS iv Contents. v \<:r duction to my Magistrate and Collector— Sworn in as Assistant Collector 79 CHAPTER V. A T MOZUFFERPORE. 1 ormal Calls— Furniture — A Curious Operation — An Afternoon's Sport— A Revenue Case— A Sunday's Wolf- Hunt— End of Case of Lakshmcc Telinec — Mookhtyars and Witnesses — The Race-Meeting— Hot Weather— Native Christians- Native Visitors — A Social Contretemps . . . .no CHAPTER VI. A T MOZUFFERPORE. The New Police — A River Trip — Examination at Patna — Sone- pore Fair— Shooting Party in the Nepaul Terai — Illegal Orders 152 CHAPTER VII. ASSISTANT MAGISTRATE IN CHARGE OF DURBHUNGAH. Take Over Charge from my Predecessor — Butwarras — A Difficult Case — Second Examination — Volunteer Cavalry — Public Meeting — "Izzat" Accident at Court — Invested with Full Powers — A Native Nobleman 196 CHAPTER VIII. A T DURBHUNGAH. Nundiput's House — An Assistant Superintendent of Police — System of Excise — Final Examination — Riot Cases — Indigo Sowing Case — Indigo Planters — Jugdeo Suspect — Nepaulese Case — A Tiger Party— A Narrow Escape — New Municipal Act — Bunwarree Lall and Public Works Department — Appointed to Nuddea — Regret at my Departure— Agricul- tural Show— Good-bye to Durbhungah 234 LIFE IN THE MOFUSSIL; OR, THE CIVILIAN IN LOWER BENGAL. CHAPTER I. VOYAGE OUT. THE START FOR INDIA. — THE SIREN. — DEATH ON BOARD. — THE SHARK. — ARRIVAL IN THE HOOGHLY. — THE ARDENT LOVER. — ON SHORE AT LAST. How well I remember the 4th of October, 186- It was a lovely evening, and I was seated, with one or two others of my own age, smoking the cigar of contentment on the poop of the good ship Lady Ellenboroitgh, now anchored in the Downs, and waiting for the breeze which should enable her to make a start independent of tugs and all other such troublesome and expensive accessories, on her journey to Calcutta. It was indeed the cigar of contentment that I smoked ; for had I not passed the competitive examination for the Indian Civil Service sufficiently high to enable me to select Bengal as the field of my future career ? had I not VOL. I. B Life in the Mofussil. scraped through the second examination in some myste- rious way by the light of nature ? and was I not now fairly launched in the world, with a prospect of novelty, excite- ment, ami a fair competence before me? All my compeers had gone, or were about to go, by the overland route, and I, in compliance with instructions from the India Office, had endeavoured to secure a passage which should enable me to leave England before the end of November ; but the P. and O. officials had informed me very curtly that they could not supply me with such ; that they could not let me know if any unforeseen vacancy should occur ; and when I stated with a certain stiffness that I must find some other means of getting to my des- tination, had received the threatening announcement with the most blank unconcern. The opening of the Suez Canal has possibly made some alteration in this state of things. On the whole I was not sorry to be compelled to apply to Messrs. Green, and was almost disappointed when the chief mate told me in the docks that the voyage would not occupy more than three months. Little did I think that those three months would be stretched into nearly five, and that long before one-third of the journey had passed I would have eaten any amount of humble pie to be allowed any corner on the deck of a P. and O. steamer, with a chance of a speedy end to the miserable monotony of a sea voyage. There were thirty-six of us first-class passengers on board — eighteen of each sex ; and the agent of the Com- pany, who had come to Gravesend to see us off, had assured us, with a sort of paternal unction, that we were The Start. 3 a very pleasant party and ought to have an agreeable time of it. It might be thought that this parity in numbers would have ensured tranquillity ; but it certainly did not, for somehow or other we quarrelled frequently, and with great earnestness. The placid evening turned into a blustering morning ; the cigar of contentment very decidedly disappeared, and for a week or more we tacked from side to side of the Channel, without, as far as I could see, ever getting any further down it, until at length some less unfavourable deity sent us an easterly wind, which froze us all to the marrow, but enabled our pilot to leave us, and carried us well on into the mighty Atlantic. I think it was about a fortnight after the pilot's de- parture that I came to the conclusion that woman's society was the greatest bliss upon earth, and, about three weeks later, that woman was the origin of all evil. There was among us a little lady, a widow, young, decidedly pretty, with golden hair and blue eyes, — one who might have figured as the heroine in one of Miss Braddon's novels, — to whom a gallant lieutenant paid much attention, which attention, according to my inexpe- rienced ideas, appeared to receive marked encouragement. Consequently I envied him much. One beautiful moonlight evening I was on deck, leaning over the stern, looking at the phosphorescent coruscations in our wake, when I heard the soft rustic of a dress close by me, and on looking round, found the golden-haired siren by my side. We were, of course, on terms of ordi- 4 Life in the MofussiL nary acquaintance, and made a few commonplace remarks on the beauty of the night Presently she said, — there was some meal going on in the saloon, and, with the ex- ception of the man at the wheel, we had the poop to our- selves, — '• What a comfort it is to be able to get away, even for a few moments, from the wearisome society of the same individuals day after day." To which I, thinking of the lieutenant, and inclined to be a little malicious, " Is it all wearisome ? " " All." " Without exception ? " " Without exception." "That is not very flattering to your fellow-voyagers, myself included." " You, Mr. Gordon, have not given me much opportunity of ascertaining whether your society is wearisome or the contrary." "Would you care to have such opportunity ? " Hesitatingly, and with an upward glance, " I think I should." " But," said I, much flattered, " there is an obstacle ; there is " " Oh," with a petulant pout, " you mean Lieut. Ogle. His name ought to have been spelt with an ' r/ not an '1.' He is a bore and a boor. How can you think his society could be any pleasure to me ? " " Well," I began ; but I thought it better not to say what I thought. She continued, " Don't think me too outspoken ; but The Siren. 5 it is such a relief to be able to speak to some one who perhaps may sympathize with the dull torture I have endured for the last ten days — perhaps would now help to rid me of it." This with a long, full look of her very pretty blue eyes. " How ? " I asked eagerly. "Shield me with your companionship," she said ; and her hand stole out towards mine, which grasped it fervently. Just at that moment we heard steps on the companion ladder, and separated. As I entered the saloon, I saw the lieutenant seated at whist and apparently in high spirits ; but I pitied him — yes, pitied him from the bottom of my heart. The next morning I finished my breakfast hastily, so as to be early on deck and ready with all those little atten- tions that male passengers are in the habit of paying to their friends of the other sex on board ship, such as placing chairs, arranging rugs, etc., etc. These were all gra- ciously accepted ; and the lieutenant, on loitering up in the full confidence of possession, was surprised and displeased to find himself forestalled. Still more displeased was he, on offering his services for the usual morning walk on deck, to find mine accepted instead ; and at dinner his brow grew black as thunder when he perceived that the fair one, by some mysterious influence over the captain, had managed to change her seat so as to be near me. This state of things lasted for some days. The lieu- tenant ceased to proffer further attentions, and became sulky and moody. He was of a temper not subject to much control, I fancy; but was astounded, as well he 6 Life in iJic Mofussil. might be, at the change in the aspect of affairs, arising from no known fault of his own. To me it was a time of idyllic happiness. My fair companion laid herself out to please me. Her conversation was piquant, she was toler- ably well read, and in various respects I began to under- stand that my society was more congenial to her than that of her former friend. In short, it became gradually a mat- ter of no surprise to me that I was preferred before him. His demeanour, however, by degrees, became more trou- blesome to us — to me especially. Puzzled surprise began to give place to an indignant sense of wrong ; and as he could not vent his anger on her, it became clear that it would fall on my devoted head. He was sometimes boisterous, sometimes moody, and occasionally made rude remarks about me, intended for my hearing. What was most galling to him probably, was, that in the cramped- up life on board ship it was impossible for him to avoid the sight of the fair cause of all his woe, and his successful rival, for whom, of course, knowing nothing, he could make no excuses. A quarrel might perhaps have been avoided, — for my own wishes were pacific enough, — had it not been for our thus being continually brought in contact with each other. But at length it happened one rough morning, while walking on deck with Mrs. Vivian, I knocked against Ogle and trod hard on his foot. Apart from all previous indignation, it must really have hurt him a little, and he turned round on me like a mad bull. I was prepared to defend myself; but suddenly, with a strong effort, he restrained himself, and saying, " You shall hear more of this," turned away and went below. The Qtmrrcl. 7 I looked at my companion, who appeared composed, but thoughtful. Presently she said, " Poor fellow ! " " Who ? " I inquired. " Lieutenant Ogle." " Why ? " " He must have been so fond of me." This was disconcerting, and I suppose my looks showed it, for she added, that " It was no use, if I could not be fond of him." That evening, after dinner, a Captain Talbot, a cavalry officer, came to me with a message from Ogle, demanding satisfaction. " Does he mean me to fight a duel ? " I said. " Beyond a doubt," said Talbot. " But it is too absurd. If I trod on his toe, it was purely accidental, and I am quite ready to beg his pardon." " You have trodden on something else besides his toe. You know very well what I mean. If you don't meet him as he demands, he will assault you ; and as he is physically much stronger than you, you will get the worst of it, and cut rather a sorry figure. You had better refer me to some- body on your part, and possibly matters may hereafter be arranged. You, of course, understand that it is necessary anyhow to keep the matter perfectly secret." Of course I knew very well what he meant Naturally, the little episode I have been describing could not go on in our small society without being observed by all our fellow- passengers. Ogle had been the object of some little sym- pathy and a good deal of ridicule. The causa tctcrrima 8 Life in the Mofussil. was sincerely hated by all her own sex, and much admired by all the unmarried members of mine, while my apparent good fortune had excited some envy. I began to find my- self in anything but a comfortable position. I was under the impression that duelling was a thing of the past, though I had heard oi' stories of its still occurring occasionally in India. Ogle could certainly thrash me if he chose ; but then, was not a thrashing better than possible death ? for I knew not how to handle a sword, and my pistol practice was confined to a trial of my new revolver, securely sol- dered down in a packing-case lined with tin in the hold. But if I refused to fight I should certainly be branded as a coward, and the fear of the scorn of my fellow-pas- sengers was very terrible to me, a thing not to be escaped from, day after day, for many a weary week. Besides, what would my Helen say ? On reflection, it seemed to me there was nothing for it but to fight ; so I sought out a young hussar with whom I was on friendly terms, and placed myself in his hands. The next morning he in- formed me that it was arranged that swords should be the weapons, and the field of battle Talbot's large stern cabin. Swords had been selected as Ogle was very blood-thirsty and wanted to fight with pistols across a handkerchief. It was thought a combat with swords would probably have a less serious termination, my friend gravely informed me. It also appeared that all available swords were soldered up in tin down in the hold to prevent their being injured by the sea damp ; and that until some plausible reason could be assigned to the captain for getting them up, matters must remain in abeyance. Further, the weather was rough, Demand for Satisfaction. 9 the glass was falling, and until the sea became smooth and the weather fine, no baggage would be got up from the hold. How fervently I prayed for constant tempest until the voyage's end. Matters being so far settled, there was no further mo- lestation from Ogle ; indeed, he avoided us as much as possible ; and Mrs. Vivian, with woman's curiosity, was most eager to know what had happened after our deck rencontre. At length I gave way, and told her. She evinced the prettiest consternation, positively lavished tenderness upon me, and actually, I recollect, embroidered my initials in two of my handkerchiefs with her golden hair. The kindly gale continued for some days ; but even the most welcome storms must come to an end, and after one or two refusals the packing cases had actually been got up from the hold and the swords taken out. Once or twice during the last two or three days I had found my fair friend in somewhat close conversation with Talbot, and the last time I had remonstrated with her, and told her I thought she had been also a little cold in her manner to me. " I have been pleading for you," she said, " and trying to get Captain Talbot to put off by some means or other this miserable duel, but without success." How could I be suspicious after this ? The dreaded day was at length fixed, and the affair was to come off in the early morning in Talbot's cabin. This was of course a secret from all except the four concerned. io Life in the Mofussil. I had bid, as I thought, a specially tender good-night to Mrs. Vivian, and had retired early, intending to make a few memoranda which might be of importance, before turning in. Presently I heard a knock at the door. " Come in !" I shouted ; and there entered, to my intense nishment, Ogle. " Shake hands, Gordon," he said, "and permit me to ask if you still insist on our turning out specially early to- morrow morning." My astonishment was only equalled by a feeling of relief, which for a second or two prevented speech ; but I grasped his hand, and at length managed to say, " Most willing to be friends. But why " " All right," he interrupted, brusquely. " Good night," and disappeared. The next day I told Mrs. Vivian of the very unexpected reconciliation that had taken place. To my surprise she got very pale, seemed much agitated, and certainly not pleased, and after one or two vague remarks pleaded a headache, and left me. That evening Talbot came to me and said : " I have come to you on rather a delicate mission, Gordon. I wish to premise that I have every desire to avoid hurting your feelings in any way; the question whether we are to remain on friendly terms or not must rest with you. Mrs. Vivian has commissioned me to say that your attentions to her have become so marked as to form the subject of remark to her fellow-passengers, and she desires that they may be discontinued." The sudden and very unexpected nature of this an- " V avium et Mutabilc Semper!' 1 1 nouncement was overwhelming. At length I gasped, " Why are you chosen for this communication ? Why has she not told me herself? " " I do not know that I am bound to answer that ques- tion," he said ; " but I may as well tell you, that possibly the connection between Mrs. Vivian and myself may be of a closer nature than that you at present think likely ; and this mission is a proof of her confidence in me." I wanted time for reflection. " I will speak to you to-morrow," I said. That night was a very miserable one for me. My first feeling, I think, was one of intensely mortified vanity. I had been very proud of my selection from among all the other men available, by this very pretty and very desirable creature. My pride had been daily flattered by the con- sciousness that I was a conspicuous object -of envy to my male fellow-passengers ; it would now be daily wounded by the feeling that I was similarly an object of ridicule, the envy being transferred to another. For I felt too certain that nothing I could do would enable the pre- viously existing state of things to continue. I could now fully enter into all poor Ogle's feelings ; but then also I could make excuses for Talbot, for I had had an experi- ence that Ogle had not. After a sleepless night I came to the conclusion that the only thing to be done was to make the best of what appeared to me then a very unhappy business. Above all things it was desirable to avoid becoming an object of ridicule. The only way to attain this was, if possible, to appear nonchalant, to remain friendly both with Talbot 1 2 Life in the MofussiL and Mrs. Vivian ; and this very difficult line of conduct I set myself resolutely to carry out. The next morning, therefore, I was able to meet Talbot apparently cheerfully, and to say, " Let us be friends; and perhaps you will tell Mrs. Vivian I shall obey her instruc- tions, but shall be glad to be on friendly terms with her also, if she will permit it." He looked at me suspiciously, but he need not have done so, for my only design was to pursue the policy before in- dicated. I took care therefore to wish her good morning in the ordinary way, placed her chair, etc., and then left her. She gave me a very curious look, but said nothing. After this, the tediousness and confinement of the voyage was something almost insupportable. The part I had to play was a very hard one ; and I was exposed to incessant and trying curiosity, and it was difficult to keep one's own counsel. At any rate I had avoided ridicule. Ogle, I think, was astonished at my coolness. He had confided to me unasked, that the night before our proposed combat, he had seen Talbot kissing Mrs. Vivian, and this had con- vinced him that she was not worth fighting for ; and this explained his sudden desire for a reconciliation and Mrs. Vivian's agitation on hearing of it. On further acquaint- ance I found him a very good fellow, with high notions of honour, and, though of an impetuous temper, a thorough gentleman. The weeks wore on, and still we seemed to get no nearer the end of our long journey. The boundless sea around us, no topic of conversation but ourselves. Various other The Albatross. 13 little episodes occurred, but I had been too deeply touched to take much interest in them. One day I recollect an albatross was caught, and as most ladies on board had expressed a desire for some of the feathers, each man who had some one to please made a dash at the wretched bird as it was drawn on deck, and it was in a dozen pieces almost before it was dead. It had been hauled up by a line, having been caught with a baited hook, like a fish ; and Talbot was so eager in hauling it up that he jerked his watch out of his pocket, and I saw it sink down into the deep, clear sea. I was glad to be out of this proceeding altogether. I don't think a long voyage is good for characters that have not great powers of self-control. In the first place, it is almost impossible to settle down to any serious pursuit on board ship ; I don't know why this is so, but every one with whom I have travelled has confirmed me in the truth of this statement. After my discomfiture I tried to take up Hindustani with vigour ; but I did very little good, though there was absolutely no other occupation to distract my attention. My thoughts, too, would run on the plea- sant companionship I had lost. There was nothing near to replace it, and, indeed, after being so long in daily contact with the same people, without any possibility of change, one began to feel as if all society were limited to one's fellow-passengers, and the most trifling events and feelings assumed undue importance. I gradually found that, as I had avoided ridicule, so I had obtained a good deal of sympathy ; and more than one fair friend volunteered congratulations on my escape from 14 Life in the Mofussil. the chains o{ the siren ; and this, of course, strengthened me in my line of conduct. For her behaviour I could only account on the old principle of "Varium ct mutabile semper femincu" I think she began to get tired of Talbot. For some time our intercourse had been confined to mere formal salutations, though I occasionally moved her chair or offered some similar attention. One day, when I had done some such thing, no one else being by, she said sud- denly, " I did not give you up without a pang." She looked very pretty, and I was sorely, sorely tempted to give way ; but I mustered all my firmness, and saying merely, " That is an interesting piece of information," moved off. After this she declined to return my salutations, and we were no longer acquaintances. Occasionally she took the opportunity of making spiteful remarks to Talbot about me in my hearing, and I could see his look of mortified vexation, for he was a fine fellow and a gentleman, and I began to feel that my turn of vengeance had commenced. Time dragged wearily on. We had crossed the line, and I, with the rest of the male passengers, had undergone the disgusting shaving and ducking that forms part of the ridiculous ceremony on the occasion. I had also induced two credulous and middle-aged women to believe they had actually seen the Equator by stretching a hair across a telescope. We had passed the Cape, and left behind us the friendly and bracing westerly gales which carried us along some 300 miles per day, getting in exchange the calms and heat of the Bay of Bengal. W T e had buried in the hot blue waves one little child that had been a crreat A Death on Board. 15 pet on board. The circumstances were very painful, as the mother was of Asiatic origin and utterly unable to control her grief. The poor little body had to be taken from her by force. She swore solemnly that she would throw herself into the sea when the coffin should be slid overboard ; and it was necessary to confine her to her cabin, with a guard over her, during the burial ceremony ; and all the time her shrieks, only too audible to all of us, were heartrending. The coffin, too, was not sufficiently weighted to sink, as it should have done, and floated within sight until the dark- ness of night hid it from us. The only redeeming point was, that before the burial we caught a shark. It had been seen in our neigh- bourhood for the last two days, and the sight of it had been accepted as an evil omen for the fate of the poor child so dangerously ill. Its pertinacity in following us certainly appeared to be an instance in support of the belief that the shark has an instinctive foreknowledge ot the approach of death at sea ; but on the other hand, sharks even more frequently follow ships when there is nobody dying on board. Several baits of some pounds of pork, each attached to enormous hooks, had been hung out for him ; but he had treated them all with disdain, until about 2 P.M., or two hours before the hour fixed for the burial, when he came up to a line held by the second mate, turned over on his back, displaying his white belly, as sharks are compelled to do, from the position of their mouth, when about to seize anything, and wholly gorged the bait. There ensued a tremendous hauling and pulling, and it took nearly half an hour to get the monster on deck, and 1 6 Life in the MofussU. some further time to despatch him there with a hatchet. He was a most hideous brute; I forget the dimensions now ; but on opening him we did not discover in his maw any bracelets or buttons, or such things as are usually described to be found therein. His heart was taken out, and continued to beat strongly. Sailors have a superstition that a shark's heart will not cease to beat until after sun- set of the day of its death. I can recollect that I saw his beating fully three hours after the creature was killed, but I cannot remember when it actually became still. For a month after crossing the line the second time I do not believe we made ioo miles ; but at last a southerly breeze sprung up, after a week of which our captain in- formed us that in another twenty-four hours we should probably sight the pilot brig. He was mistaken, however, for he had taken a wrong course, and for forty-eight hours we were beating about in shoal water on a dangerous coast, the skipper constantly poring over his charts and evidently in a very anxious state of mind. It fell to my lot, many years afterwards, to administer the district to which this coast belongs, and I then better appreciated the dangers we had run during those hours. On the third morning, just as we were going to break- fast, the man at the masthead shouted, " Brig at anchor," and in another hour we had run down to the vessel, sta- tioned some twenty miles from the mouth of the Hooghly with pilots to convoy vessels up that exceedingly danger- ous river ; and a little later we saw the first land on which our eyes had rested after passing Madeira. We were all in the highest spirits. The very smell of the The Hooghly. i 7 land appeared sweeter than anything my nostrils had previ- ously experienced ; and as the banks of the mighty river narrowed, and I was able to see farther into the country of which I was to be one of the governors, my interest knew no bounds. We had secured the services of a tug, which before evening towed us as far as Garden Reach, where it was necessary to anchor till the morning.. The joy of us new-comers was a little checked during the night by the attacks of mosquitoes, and in the morn- ing some of our more delicate companions refused to show their faces. It was especially trying for those who had come to join expectant bridegrooms. One of these was a girl of about six or seven and twenty, frank, unaffected, and honest, though decidedly not good-looking, who had been indulging in the most ardent anticipations of a meeting with her lover, to whom she had been engaged for seven years. It so happened that he was the first to arrive on board, having hastened down on the wings of love (as we supposed) to Garden Reach, and reached the ship before the tug had taken us in tow for the last few miles of our journey in the morning. How the information got about I don't know, but in less than half an hour it was known to all on board that this ardent lover had thus hurried down to persuade his expect- ant bride to return to England by the next mail steamer. The reason I never knew. It could not have been mos- quito bites, for he had evidently come down determined on this course ; and I fear his conduct was only one of VOL. I. C 1 8 Life in tJic Mofussil. the many refutations of the very untrue statement, that " absence makes the heart grow fonder." I felt truly sorry for the poor lady, but at the same time became convinced of the extreme injudiciousness of such engagements. However, she was firm, and carried her point, for some days afterwards I saw their marriage an- nounced in the Calcutta papers ; but it must have taken some time, at any rate, to efface the recollection of such an exceedingly disagreeable episode. Meantime, with the recalcitrant bridegroom moodily leaning over the side, and the disappointed bride sur- rounded by a phalanx of sympathizing female friends, we slowly moved up the majestic river, and leaving the luxu- riant foliage of Garden Reach behind us, opened out the stately city of palaces. The first view of Calcutta is indeed striking — the fine river, the long line of splendid shipping, the wide "Maidan" (plain), bounded on two sides by the white houses with their green Venetian blinds, gleaming under the bright blue sky of a February morning. It was a sight welcome to us weary voyagers. We came to anchor opposite Prinsep's Ghat, an arch with a flight of steps leading down to the river (all land- ing places in Bengal are called " ghats ") and were in the twinkling of an eye surrounded by a multitude of native boats, the occupants of which were all talking, or rather screaming, with the full power of their lungs, and making a noise such as only a native crowd can produce. I observed among the crowd of dinghies one containing a number of native commercial agents, or " banians," as On Shore at Last. 19 they are called, respectably dressed in long white clothes ; and one young English officer, who had come to meet some one on board, and was making signs of recogni- tion to him. In his eagerness to meet his friend, he sprang from his own "dinghy" on to that next him, and in doing so capsized that from which he sprang, and all the white-clothed baboos were in an instant under the water. I looked on horror-stricken. The stream was running some six or seven miles an hour, and in half a minute or so I observed that the lightly-clad boatmen had emerged and saved themselves by clinging to boats near them. The unfortunate baboos, however, were too much impeded by their long flowing garments to do this, and I saw once a head with the face perfectly concealed by white linen appear above the muddy waters, and once an arm vainly endeavouring to emancipate itself from the clinging clothes which prevented any effort for life, some hundred yards down the stream. No one seemed to take any notice at first, but after half a minute's precious time lost in jabbering, two out of the fifty boats or more sur- rounding us did essay to go after the drowning wretches. Meantime the cause of all this catastrophe had climbed up the gangway ladder with a beaming countenance, and did not appear to know that he had consigned to an almost certain death four or five of his fellow creatures ; for, what with under-currcnts, eddies, sharks, and alligators, a man once committed to the tender mercies of the sacred river is seldom seen again. What became of these baboos I never knew; for I could do nothing to help them, and the 20 Life in the MqfussiL bustle of getting on shore soon put all other thoughts out of my head for the time. At length, with a feeling of really wild delight, after one hundred and forty-two days of imprisonment, I once more put foot on shore. CHAPTER II. LIFE AS A STUDENT IN CALCUTTA. SPENCE'S HOTEL.— FRESH EGGS. — EXAMINATIONS IN NATIVE LAN- GUAGES. — THE BAITAL PUNSHABINSHATI. — THE "CHUMMERY." — A CALCUTTA DAY IN THE HOT WEATHER. — THE MALL. — NORTH- WESTERS. — COMPETITION WALLAHS. — THEATRICALS. — OUR DIN- NER PARTY. — DISSOLUTION OF " CHUMMERY."— CLUBS.— SNIPE SHOOTING.— TAKE LEAVE OF CALCUTTA. A FEW minutes in that curious conveyance, a " palki gharry " (resembling a palanquin on wheels), sufficed to convey me to Spence's Hotel ; and I shall not easily forget the lordly sense of power with which I ordered two fresh eggs for breakfast. During the last month of our voyage a hen had confidingly laid an egg, to which each of the eighteen lady passengers appeared to have some special claim. But the judicious steward dropped his apple of discord on deck, and thus avoided a second and very much exaggerated edition of the Trojan war. But great was the lamentation over the fall of that egg, and here was I able to order tr/o at once, and more to follow, if required. It was a delightful sense of change and freedom ; and all the petty strifes and narrow jealousies of the voyage seemed to have disappeared as if by magic. It was a re- lief to find that not one of my fellow-passengers had gone to the same hotel. Indeed, I saw little of them after- 22 Life in the Mofussil. wards. One day I met Mrs. Vivian in Wilson's shop — that great emporium on the ground floor of the hotel now called the Great Eastern. Talbot was following her about like a tame cat. She bowed to me in the most smiling manner, and on my returning the salutation, informed me that she was now Mrs. Talbot ; that they were about to stay a week or two in Calcutta before going up country to join his regiment. Would I come and see them ? I offered my congratulations to Talbot ; and though I must admit she was nicely dressed and looked well, I felt glad that she was Mrs. Talbot. I never saw r them afterwards ; but I feel pretty sure that Ogle and myself were well out of it. A few days saw me fairly launched in Calcutta life, which, for an idle man in the cold weather, is about as plea- sant a thing as I know. In those days a young civilian had to pass an examination in Calcutta in two languages before proceeding to any situation in the interior. These languages were Persian and Hindi, if the examinee were appointed to the north-west provinces, Punjaub, or Oudh ; and Hindustani and Bengali if his future sphere of action lay in Bengal Proper. The examinations were held monthly, and we were allowed to take up one language only at a time, the second not being commenced upon until the Board of Examiners had certified that we were sufficiently proficient in the first. During this time we were nominally under the control of the said Board, though practically between the intervals of examination they knew nothing about us and did not interfere with our movements. I was, like the rest of my compeers, naturally Native Languages. 23 eager to begin at once upon the administration of the country, and felt much chagrined at being yet again re- duced to the status of scholar. This is all changed now, and young arrivals are sent at once to the district where they may be appointed, and not only have an opportunity of seeing how the official machine works, but of obtaining a practical knowledge of the language. This latter we certainly could not do in Cal- cutta. The very books we had to study seemed selected with a view to prevent this. Hindustani and Bengali fell to my lot. In the former the " Bagh o Bahar " was our principal text-book, the language being high-flown Persian substantives and adjectives, with here and there a Hin- dustani verb — the delight of the " moonshees," or tutors appointed by Government, most unpractical of teachers, but useless for us learners. A thorough knowledge of the above would perhaps help me to appear to advantage in an interview with an educated Mohammedan gentleman, but would be no aid in the conduct of a criminal case or a local inquiry in a Behar village. It would probably be far more useful to civilians who were appointed to the north-west provinces, but for whom it was not prescribed. The same remarks apply also to the Bengali text-books. The chief was entitled " Baital Punshabinshati ; " or, " The Twenty-five Tales of a Demon " — the vocabulary really Sanscrit, with Bengali terminations and inflections. It is a weird book, of which the plot may be roughly described as follows : — A very pious Hindoo king is at- tempting to lay a ghost or demon which has taken up its 2 4 Life in tlie Mofussil. residence in a tree in a burial ground. To effect this he takes the demon on his back, and the latter consents to go with him on condition that the king gives a correct answer to a problem which he shall propose. The king is unsuc- cessful in guessing the answer until the twenty-fifth pro- blem is propounded. These problems are in the shape of stories, and are spun out with a multitude of details quite irrelevant to the main issue, but a short abstract of one or two which I recollect will serve to show their nature. An exceedingly religious king having been blessed with a wife endowed with all good qualities, and a friend of a similar character, determined to make a pilgrimage in their company to a distant shrine. On their way they passed through a dense forest in which they came upon a temple sacred to a goddess (whose name I have forgotten). The king determined to go in and do poojah (say his prayers), leaving his friend and wife outside. After saying his prayers he came to the conclusion that life on the whole is a bore, and that it would be just as well to end it in such a holy place. He therefore drew his sword, cut off his own head, and fell dead at the feet of the image of the goddess. The friend and wife outside wondering at his long absence, the former went into the temple to see what he was about. On discovering the dead body he too was struck with the idea that this is a bad world, and that every one will accuse him of having killed his friend in order to obtain his friend's wife. Deciding therefore to avoid all future trouble by following his friend's example, he cut off his own head, and fell dead by his side. Finally the wife, troubled at the long absence of both her companions, en- Baital Punshabinshati. 25 tered the temple to look after them, and on seeing what had happened resolved to kill herself too, as life without her beloved husband was no longer worth having. She was just preparing to despatch herself with her husband's sword when the goddess appeared in person, commended her for her good resolution, and bidding her live, promised to grant her any boon that she might ask. She begged that the two dead bodies might be restored to life. " Very well," said the goddess, " put the heads on to the bodies," and disappeared. The wife, in her agitation, fitted the wrong heads on to the wrong bodies, and when they came to life as promised, they both claimed her as their wife. " O king," said the demon, after reciting thus far," whose wife was she ?" The king replied, giving his reasons, that she belonged to that body on which the head of the husband was fastened ; but the answer was wrong, for the demon got down from the king's back, and hanged himself up in his tree again. In another story a king who has performed his religious duties with great ardour all his life, is rewarded by the possession of three of the most delicate wives in the world. One was so delicate that on one occasion when the king was sitting by her side playing with a lotus flower, one of the tendrils fell on her arm and broke it. The second happened to hear a peasant woman grinding corn in the hand mill (two round stones between which the grain is placed), and the sound broke the drum of her ear. The third was sitting by the king in the forest one 26 Life in the Mofussil. moonlight evening, when a moonbeam fell on her cheek and burned it. The demon asked which was the most delicate, and the king, after some pondering, replies, "She on whom the moonbeam fell ; " but the answer was not correct. In no case docs the demon supply the right solution when the king is wrong ; and in all the cases it would be very diffi- cult to do so on satisfactory grounds. It is easy to conceive that a study of such a work as the above did not conduce to a practical knowledge of the language or of the administration of the laws ; and the present system is much better, where young administrators are compelled to learn only what is useful, while at the same time inducements in the shape of money prizes are still held out to them to devote what leisure they may have during the early part of their service to the more finished acquisition of Indian languages. To me, and to many others, the study of Hindustani and Bengali in the above shapes was a very dreary busi- ness ; and it really was an effort to devote attention to them at all. A little real work would have enabled me to pass the examination in each language in two months, or four months altogether, whereas I lingered in Calcutta for ten, and some of my contemporaries for eighteen. Eager as I was to rush up country at starting, when the time actually came for my departure from Calcutta I was very loth to go, for I had made many friends whom I was sorry to leave, and I had also heard many things about the dulness of life in the interior. Spence's Hotel, though cheap, was not the most comfort- The " Chummery " 27 able residence procurable ; and meeting with some friends of my own age and congenial temperament, we started what is called a "chummery;" that is, four of us rented a fur- nished house from a man who had sent his family to the "hills" for the hot weather and rainy season, and thus acquired not only the dignity, but also the responsibilities and anxieties of the status of householders. The owner was glad to get his house occupied during his absence, and accepted us as tenants at half the rent he himself paid. Government allowed us in those days 300rs. a month, or about £1 a day, and 30rs. or about £3 a month as moon- shee allowance. This latter amount we never saw, as it was paid through the Board of Examiners to the moon- shee we had selected from among those licensed by Govern- ment, and to whom we granted certificates of regular attendance (with a very liberal interpretation of the word regular) during the month. Our united available monthly income, therefore, from Government was i20ors., and our actual outgoings for food, wine, house-rent, the wages of some 30 servants, and the keep of six horses were about 8501's. monthly. This would appear, perhaps, more than moderate in the eyes of most old Haileybury civilians ; but the days of the old extravagance had gone by, and the expression, " he's turned his lakh," meaning, " he owes more than £ 10,000," would be scarcely intelligible to the present generation. Nevertheless it will be seen that to a man having nothing but his pay, there was not much left for fancy expenditure ; and to such as went out married it was a great struggle to make both ends meet. The purchase, too, of horses and 28 Life in tJic Mofussil. conveyances necessitated an outlay which, in many cases, compelled the resort to a loan at the very start ; and it was not easy, until one had got into the quiet and economy of the " mofussil," or interior, to save anything to pay this off. My chums, like myself, were all embryo administrators. One of them, Morrison, was a contemporary of mine at Oxford ; Green had been at Harrow, and afterwards at a, private tutor's ; while O'Connor was a graduate of Trinity College, Dublin. His brogue denoted most unmistakably the land of his birth. My long studies on board ship were supposed to have given me a better knowledge of the language than my companions, and to my lot therefore fell the management of the house and the control of the commissariat. To O'Connor was allotted the supervision of the stable, as all Irishmen are supposed to know about horses ; and Green's spirit was too lofty, and Morrison was too dreamy for these insignificant but necessary details. Our " khansamar," or head table-servant, was supposed to know English, or at any rate the English names of the table necessaries ; and on the morning after we had entered on possession of our house, he came to inform me that it was advisable to lay in a small stock of certain kitchen requisites. " Would I be pleased to make a list, and get them from the European shops ?" Accordingly I took my pen, while he, standing with his hands clasped in the native attitude of deferential respect, commenced : — " Makrakurma." " What ?" said I. " Makrakurma," he repeated. The Khansamar. 29 I had never heard of any English eatable of this name ; but he assured me it was very common and absolutely necessary. " Well," I said, wishing to temporize, " pass on to the next thing." " Burrumchellee," he said. This was no better than the first item ; but he insisted that it was equally well known and equally necessary. This was very disheartening, and I was much puzzled what to do, for I did not like to write down these mystic names and expose my ignorance in an English shop ; and further I was unwilling to confess to my chums that I had so utterly failed in my very first attempt at housekeeping. Finally my interlocutor came to the rescue, saying with a condescending smile, "Your highness is a great man, and has probably not paid attention to these matters ; but I have a cousin in the bazaar who knows English well, and will, if you approve, write all these things down in English, and only charge eight annas," equal to is. English. I was only too glad to accept this compromise, and get out of my difficulty for one shilling. The next morning therefore the list was brought to me fairly written out ; and I discovered that the two mysterious articles were merely maccaroni and vermicelli, articles that possibly a brand-new housekeeper would not think of as heading a list of necessaries. I tried to point out to the khansamar that it was his faulty pronunciation that had necessitated the expenditure of is. ; but he either could not or would not understand, and my Hindustani being very limited, I was obliged to yield. Many similar difficulties involved further outlays, until my progress, both in the language and housekeeping 30 Life in the Mofusstl. experiences, enabled me to do without the assistance of the cousin in the bazaar, whom I afterwards discovered to be no cousin, but an ordinary bazaar writer, and whose real charge I ascertained to be ^d. for such documents. My other difficulty was with the sirdar-bearer. The chief dignitaries among the servants in an Anglo-Bengalee household are the sirdar-bearer and the khansamar. The latter, as may be gathered from the facts related above, supervises the cuisine, the former all matters connected with the internal economy of the house. He has charge of the lamps, the linen, etc., and is responsible that the water-carriers, sweepers, and other subordinate servants do their duty. At the commencement of each month he brings in an account of his expenditure on account of the house, and also a list of wages due to himself and the servants in his department. These monthly accounts were the bane of my existence. The gross amount was always much more than it ought to have been, and yet it was almost impossible to eliminate or reduce any special item. Each item, too, was so ridiculously small in amount that it seemed scarcely worth while to wrangle about any one in particular. The fact was, the man's whole leisure time, and he had plenty of it, was devoted to making up this bill ; and he was prepared with a most elaborate reply to every possible and probable objection. I recollect that he always appeared to have used an enormous amount of string and beeswax, and that the sweepers continually wanted new brooms and baskets. Why the baskets should wear out so was always a puzzle to me. When I became more experienced, I found the wiser The Sirdar Bearer. 31 plan to be to allow myself to be cheated to a certain ex- tent, and only to pretend to examine the detailed account, and if the total appeared to be too extortionate to make an arbitrary deduction of iors. or so. Such deductions always caused the most heart-rending lamentations, assertions of starvation, and impending death, but they did not last long ; and the bearer, after being driven from the presence with scorn and a certain amount of angry words, would appear at the next inter- view, half an hour afterwards, as grave and decorous as if nothing had occurred. The same remarks apply to the khansamar's bill, where, among other things, the number of eggs consumed in a month was always perfectly appalling. Being inexperienced, and at the same time bound to see that the limited resources of my chums were not extrava- gantly wasted, the labour of arriving at a satisfactory settlement of these bills was exceedingly irksome, and did not, I think, meet with the gratitude it deserved. It was some consolation, however, to find that O'Connor was just as much bothered with the stable accounts, and occasion- ally appeared to be suffering from curry-combs and brushes on the brain. The amount of salt, too, that horses con- sume in India is very astonishing. Another trouble was the constant bickering of our respective servants. The servants common to all of us were the derwan, or door-keeper, a very important person, who prevents the ingress and egress of doubtful characters, and examines any suspicious-looking bundles carried out by any servant 32 Life in tJic Mofussil. of the house, the sirdar-bearer, the khansamar, two water- carriers (bhcesties), two sweepers, and one cook ; but we each had our own bearer, or body-servant, and kitmutgar, or table-servant. It is the custom in India for each per- son to have his own table-servant ; and when dining out, to take him with him to wait behind his chair. There were, of course, among so many hands, sundry breakages, and many articles, such as spoons, forks, nap- kins, and towels, mislaid. The khansamar and sirdar- bearer, in their respective departments, were making con- stant reclamations, which led to vociferous denials and recrimination on the part of the eight servants mentioned above. In our presence they would accuse each other of carelessness or theft ; out of it, they abused each other's female relatives. Generally these quarrels blazed hot and fierce for a quarter of an hour or so, and then died away ; but occasionally they led to cherished malice and more serious results. A chummery of four inexperienced young Englishmen is not a good school for native servants. Neither the sirdar-bearer or khansamar would steal any- thing themselves, or allow, if they could help it, any theft on the part of others in the house. Their profit was made out of their accounts. The bearers, too, would not steal from their own masters, for they too had their private accounts against them ; and though their profits were small at present, they hoped they would increase as their masters' salaries increased. For it is universally the case in Bengal, that as the em- ployer's salary rises, so does the price of everything pur- chased by his servants rise also. In all the services the Servant's Accounts. 33 servants know exactly what pay their masters receive, and make up their accounts accordingly. It generally happens that on promotion an official changes his district, and the servants are therefore able to assert that prices are higher in the neighbourhood, but it is not so always ; and I recol- lect a friend who had recently been made a Commissioner in the district in which he had been in the lower office of Collector, found that in his khansamar's account for the succeeding month the price of every article of consump- tion had considerably increased. On expressing his sur- prise at this, the man assured him that it was really the case that the bazaar " nerik," or market rate, had so risen. He declined to settle the account until he had made in- quiries, and found that all his neighbours had continued to pay the same prices as before. This was pointed out to the khansamar, and he could not deny it, and being driven into a corner, at length said, " But your honour has become a Commissioner Sahib." He did not, of course, get his ex- cess prices on this occasion, but my friend admitted that, though thus at first successful, his monthly bills increased, and he could not keep them down. People who have not been in India may say, " But why not do your own marketing?" To this I reply, that it is simply impossible for an English gentleman or lady ; the climate and the customs of the country absolutely prevent it. But though our bearers would not steal from their own masters, I don't think they had any scruples about taking what they could from the employers of their companions. Fear of detection, and its disagreeable consequences, was VOL. I. D 34 Life in the Mofussil. the only deterrent. They watched each other very closely, however, ami hence we were comparatively safe. There was, I recollect, one serious quarrel between Morrison's and Green's servants. The latter had been detected by the former in the act of appropriating some firewood, which he had collected for the cooking of his mid-day meal. A few days after, Green missed a gold pencil-case by which he set much store. A great fuss was made about it, and all the servants' boxes were searched, without result. Green's bearer was, of course, suspected ; but, on the grounds men- tioned above, it was thought improbable that he would have taken it. Some days afterwards he said to his master, " Sahib, have you looked in Mr. Morrison's almi- rah ? (wardrobe)." " No," said Green, " it isn't very likely Mr. Morrison has committed a theft." " But," said his bearer, " it is possible that his servant may have." So, with Morrison's permission, his wardrobe was searched, and among his shirts was found the missing pencil-case. Morrison was naturally indignant, and told his bearer to leave his service at once. The man in vain asserted his innocence, and attributed the charge to enmity about the stolen wood above mentioned. It did not occur to us that there could be any connection between the two ; but it appeared that he was right, for shortly after his dismissal the khansamar came to me with an air of impor- tant mystery, saying that Jeeboo wished to speak to me. Jeeboo, I should explain, was the item in the house which answers to the cat at home. He was a relative of A Servant's Quarrel. 35 one of the kitmutgars, who had been admitted to the house without payment of salary, for the purpose of learning his duties as a table servant ; and all sins of omission and commission of the table department, such as broken plates, torn napkins, lost dusters, were in the first instance laid to his charge — probably, in many cases, with justice ; we had christened him the " Plate-smasher." I told the khansamar to admit him, and he then in- formed me that in the morning before the search of Morri- son's wardrobe he had been sent upstairs to fetch a\:up and saucer which had been left in Morrison's room, and had found Green's bearer standing by the wardrobe. Green's bearer was then confronted with him, and was evidently taken aback at this unexpected piece of evidence. It was clear that the boy had no hostility to Green's man, and further, O'Connor suddenly recollected that he had seen Green's man coming out of Morrison's room, but had not thought of it further at the time. This raised such a strong presumption in favour of the innocence of Morrison's bearer that messengers were at once sent to recall him, and Green's servant dismissed with ignominy, and some very scornful remarks in bad Hindustani from Green, which, I am bound to admit, did not appear to have very much effect. It grieves me to relate that the plate-smasher's connec- tion with us terminated soon after, almost equally disas- trously. It was the custom at the close of dinner to remove the lamp just as we were about to leave the table, and carry it into the drawing-room. The lamp stood in the centre of the table, under the punkah, a semicircular 36 Life in the Mofussil. space being cut in the fringe of this latter in order to enable it to be pulled without interfering with the former. The punkah is a framework of canvas about a foot and a half in breadth, and of length proportional to the room in which it is suspended. To the framework is attached a fringe of thick holland, about a foot in breadth, and the whole is pulled by a rope attached to its centre and passed through a hole in the wall. The puller (punkah-wallah), stands in the adjoining room, and is of course unable to see what is going on in the room in which the punkah is swinging to and fro. He pulls on mechanically to cool his masters until told to stop. Before removing the lamp, it was necessary to call out to the punkah-wallah to stop. On the evening in question, the " plate-smasher," anxious, I presume, to show himself useful, raised the lamp without taking the precaution previously mentioned. The punkah swung on monotonously, and the result was a crash, total darkness, and a strong smell of castor oil. We sprang to our feet simultaneously, actuated by a common thirst for vengeance; but the "plate-smasher " had disappeared. Our thoughts next turned to the relative who had introduced him ; but he also had fled, and we never saw either of them again, though a small amount of wages was due to the latter. Yet, notwithstanding these and similar worries, we had on the whole a sufficiently pleasant time in Calcutta. In those days it was not thought necessary that the head of the Government should seek the cool fastnesses of Simla during the hot season and rains, and take with him all the fortunate officials attached to the Government of India, the Foreign and Home Offices, and many others. "A Day of Calcutta Life." 2,7 It is doubtless more pleasant; but beyond this I never could see any reason for the move. In former days the work went on equally well, even though carried on in the climate of Lower Bengal. No one will deny that Lower Bengal civilians have plenty to do, and yet it has never occurred to any one that they require such a change. It seems to me, though perhaps I look at it from a very local point of view, that it is just as though the English Cabinet should go to Malta during the winter months and govern England thence. Some of those who go have admitted to me that great delay and confusion is caused by the trans- mission of bundles of correspondence. For three weeks before the start from Calcutta, a multitude of matters were at a standstill, because a portion of the correspon- dence connected with them had "gone on;" and three weeks after the return the result was the same, because the bundles had not come back. However, the fact that delay and confusion must occur in such a case scarcely requires proof. In those days, then, Calcutta, though badly drained and with no proper water supply, retained a large portion of its European society during the year, and the contrast between the social atmosphere during the winter months and those of the hot and rainy seasons was not so great as it is now. Dinners and even dances went on ; and we waltzed away pluckily at Government House on the 24th May in honour of Her Most Gracious Majesty. It was not cool, I must admit, and artificial complexions would have fared badly. The description of one day will suffice for most others. Up between 5.30 and 6 a.m., and after " chota haziri," or 3S Life in the Mofussil. little breakfast, consisting of coffee and toast, a canter on the " Maidan," the extensive plain, round two sides of which the European portion of Calcutta is built ; back to bathe and breakfast ; after which, moonshees till 12 ; then calls from 12 to 2 p.m., then lunch (if at home) ; sleep, books, or whist, till 5 p.m. ; then a drive to the racket court, where play till 7, at which hour one's riding horse was brought down ; and a gallop across the Maidan to the Eden Gardens, with music and conversation with all the " world," who had turned out to enjoy the cool of the evening, made a pleasant finish to the day. The Mall, the Rotten Row of Calcutta, is quite unique ; and in its own style, I should say, unsurpassed. The road on which the carriages pass up and down runs between the fine river Hooghly on the one side and the Maidan on the other. To the north and east are Government House, the Town Hall, the Esplanade, and the Chowringhee mansions, which have given the place the name of the " City of Palaces," and I think, from the coup doeil afforded, not undeservedly. Close to the road are moored fine ships from all parts of the world, of many thousand tons burden, while the opposite bank is green with foliage throughout the year. The assemblage of vehicles is, it is true, somewhat motley, for there are no exclusive rules here ; and the Governor General's carnage in all its splendour, may be jostled by the hired " palki gharry " with its two wretched ponies, rope harness, nearly naked driver, and wheels whose sinuous motions impress one with the idea that they must come off at the next revolution, and a freight of drunken sailors vociferating The Eden Gardens. 39 sonnets to their sweethearts in a manner anything but harmonious. Parallel to the carriages, and separated from them only by a wooden railing, figure the riders ; and the amount of salutation rendered necessary by this proximity is destructive to the brims of many hats. The fort, of which the Maidan forms the " glacis," is half-way down the drive ; officers are obliged to appear in uniform, and this, in conjunction with the varied costumes of the natives of all descriptions, affords a combination of colour which makes the whole scene very striking. The Eden Gardens border the northern portion of the drive. Though not extensive, they are laid out with con- siderable horticultural skill ; and a large grass plat close to the band-stand is provided for a promenade. Here, as the short twilight fails, it is the custom for the occupants of the various carriages, and the riders, to collect and walk up and down, while listening to good military music. The place is prettily lighted with lamps ; and, though decorum reigns supreme, the whole thing brings back a faint flavour of the Chateau des Fleurs of Paris. I once had occasion to take a young American girl, who had got thus far on a journey round the world from New York vid San Francisco, to this promenade, and she told me it had impressed her more pleasingly than anything she had hitherto seen. Here too, on the hot May evenings, all linger to catch the latest breath of the southerly breeze, which comes up from the sea, heedless of the black arched cloud gathering in the west, portending the speedy advent of one of those 40 Life in the Mofussil. storms known all over Bengal as nor'-westers. A remark- able feature in these is, that in whatever part of the sky they may gather, they invariably burst from the north- west. The southerly breeze blows steadily, but the black cloud still comes on and on, until there is a sudden lull, and a chill air from the north-west takes the place of the soft sea-born wind. This is the signal for a general run to carriages and horses ; there is a perfect stampede of eques- trians over the plain. And now comes a mighty rush of wind, every particle of dust on the surface of the thirsty ground seems to be whirled into the air, down comes the rain, in a few minutes the Maidan looks like a lake, the lightning keeps up a continuous flare, and the thunder crashes and roars without one half-second's cessation The wind is often so strong that it is impossible to raise the hood of buggy or barouche, and ladies' dresses come badly out of this conflict of the elements. Conveyances are occasionally blown completely over ; and young horses not rarely bring their riders to grief in the general excite- ment and confusion. In one of these storms the wife of one of the highest functionaries in Calcutta was blown positively off her horse into the ditch bythe jail, near the south-east corner of the Maidan. She had separated from her companions in the darkness, and no one at the moment knew what had become of her. The storm, as is usual, passed over in a little more than half an hour ; and two men coming by in a buggy became conscious of a lady in riding costume sitting disconsolately in the ditch. They pulled up and offered to assist her home, not knowing who she was ; Nor- Westers. 4 1 but her nerves had been so upset by the fright she had undergone that she could not recollect her residence or even her name. At their wits' end what to do, they finally took her to the General Hospital, where, after a couple of hours' rest, her memory returned, and she was able to give directions and be sent home, whither her horse had found its way some time previously, causing much alarm to her husband and family. In the Eden Gardens O'Connor was in his glory. Per- sonally, I must admit that, meeting the same people day after day, I used to find my powers of conversation some- what flag. But O'Connor was like the "brook." One objectionable point about him was, that he could not modulate his voice ; and some of his tenderest remarks were audible to a great many ears besides that for which they were intended. Some of these appeared to me rather vapid ; but there was an Irish absence of bashfulness about him which enabled him to pull through all kinds of awkward situations ; and certainly the ladies to whom he addressed his conversation did not seem displeased. My experience teaches me that ladies prefer a talker, how- ever vapid, to a silent man ; and on my once asking a middle-aged friend of mine, a keen observer, how it was that girls whom I really thought intelligent could enjoy this kind of conversation, he replied, " Women like being talked to ; it is analogous to patting a little dog," and 'I cannot help thinking he was right. Men, however, were not so complacent ; and I heard many remarks that were by no means complimentary to my fluent chum. Some of these doubtless originated in the strong preju- 4- Life in the Mofussil. dice that still existed against Competition Wallahs, as we were called, who had obtained our appointments by com- petitive examination. It was not unnatural that members of old Indian families of either service should look upon us as intruders, who had taken out of the mouths of their children the bread that was their legitimate due. But this prejudice led them to somewhat unreasonable conclusions. In their eyes, because a man had not been nominated by a Director and educated at Haileybury, it necessarily followed that he was of low birth and vulgar mind and manners ; that he could not ride or shoot ; in fact, that he was a mere bookworm, devoid of all physical energy. Wallahs are now so numerous that they are quite able to hold their own ; but this general idea still exists, though in a less pronounced form. From what I have learned of the Haileybury regime, it seems to me that the students there were decidedly not likely to be entitled to the sobriquet of "bookworms;" but yet I have never been able to understand why they should, as a necessary consequence, be able to ride and shoot so much better than those educated elsewhere — why they should be so much more refined than the products of Eton and Harrow, Oxford and Cambridge. But this was only an article of faith with them, and had no more effect on their practice than articles of faith generally exercise. Though they thought of us thus as a class, they treated us well as individuals ; and I received nothing but kindness from members of my own service. It is true I was often told, as doubtless the majority of my contemporaries have been told, that I was not like an ordinary Wallah ; but this Calling. 43 was by way of a compliment. And it must be admitted that some of the new comers, who had not been at a public school or a University, but had scraped through with the aid of crammers, did not possess all the qualities desirable ; but were there no black sheep among the Haileybury flock ? The knowledge, too, of the existence of this prejudice naturally made Wallahs a little shy on their arrival in Calcutta ; but I freely acknowledge that when we did emerge from our reserve, we were kindly and hospitably received. Calling hours in Calcutta are from 12 to 2 p.m. 2 p.m. is the luncheon hour, and after that ladies not unusually, in the hot weather, divest themselves of all superfluous clothing, and keep as cool and quiet as they can until the time for the evening drive. The male sex, except in the case of such idlers as ourselves and a few military men, were all at office, so there was really not much temp- tation to keep them in their drawing-rooms. It is also the Indian custom that the new comers should call on the old residents. The new comers are generally young men and shy ; and it is their habit to call in pairs, by way of supporting each other. This is particularly be- wildering to the recipients of the visit ; for as two cards of two strange men are sent in simultaneously, it is difficult for the hostess to distinguish which is which. I very soon discontinued this custom ; for having called at one house in company with Green, I soon after received and accepted an invitation to dine there. My hostess very naively ex- pressed surprise at my appearance, stating that she thought 44 Life in the Mofussil. my companion had been Mr. Gordon. This was gauche on her part, but not the less disagreeable to me. O'Connor did an immense amount of calling, chiefly alone ; but there was one house to which he generally in- duced me to accompany him — that of some very pleasant people named Carter — father, mother, and daughter. He held a high civil appointment, and their house was one of the most genial and hospitable in the place. Miss Carter was decidedly pretty and very lively. She seemed to take pleasure in O'Connor's society; at any rate she was amused with him, and I was somehow generally told off to make conversation with Mrs. Carter, not at all an unpleasant task, though perhaps not quite so nice a role as O'Connor had taken for himself. The whole of our chummery gradually became very intimate there ; and at length, when we were lunching there one day, it was decided that we should get up some private theatricals. O'Connor was specially keen about this ; and Miss Carter and a friend of hers, a Miss Rawlins, were to take the ladies' parts. Green and Morrison were also enlisted, and to me, who had had some little experience of acting at home, fell the thankless task of stage-manager. The Carters gave up their drawing-room, and for a time things went swimmingly. O'Connor did a deal of flirting with Miss Carter ; though I thought I perceived that she paid a great deal more attention to Green, whenever he condescended to make himself agreeable. Three days before the date fixed for the performance. Miss Rawlins fell ill, Mrs. Carter objected to allow her daughter to be the only lady acting, and it seemed likely that the whole thing Private Theatricals. 45 would fall through. Suddenly it occurred to the irre- pressible O'Connor that I would make a capital lady. I admit I had a good complexion, and no whiskers ; but then I was far too tall, and I possessed a promising moustache which I much cherished. At first, I firmly declined the arrangement ; but the Carters got me to dinner there, and bullied me so unmercifully about my selfishness that I gave way, and consented to take the part of Annie in " Little Toddlekins." The theatricals finally came off, with the result that is usual in such cases. All the actors thought they had gone off splendidly ; and the audience were good enough to applaud, and say they thought so too. The absence of ladies made them much less interesting ; this we all ad- mitted afterwards in the quiet of our own house ; and then O'Connor, who seemed to long for further excitement, and was also anxious to follow up the impression he supposed that he had made on the Carters, propounded the auda- cious suggestion that we should have a ladies' party, i.e., a dinner party, at which some of the guests should be ladies. This idea I received with the scorn I supposed that it merited ; but to my surprise Green accepted the proposition very favourably, and Morrison didn't care a fig which way the matter was decided. So finally invitations were issued to the Carters, parents and daughter, to Miss Rawlins and her father, Colonel Rawlins, and accepted. The interval between this and the date of the entertain- ment was a time of some anxiety to me ; for though our house was a good one, and we had all the necessary means 46 Life in the Mofussil. at command, yet I felt that our servants were not quite reliable, as indeed young bachelors' servants seldom are, and I had a presentiment that some contretemps would occur. O'Connor devoted himself to the supply of bou- quets, something very suggestive being procured for Miss Carter. For my part, I acceded to all the demands of the khansamar, the chief of which were, two fowls per head for each person dining, for the stock of the soup, plus two for the pot ; a " ticca " (hired) cook, a " ticca " " mesalchi," or plate-washer, to assist our own men, and various articles in tins and bottles. It was now well on in the rainy season, when no vege- tables or fruits are procurable, and it was necessary to eke out the limited supplies of the country with articles ob- tained from Europe in hermetically sealed tins or bottles. Every conceivable thing is so procurable, and the native servants hold them in high estimation. There is a story of a man who had recently returned from furlough telling a very worthy half-caste lady who had never seen Eng- land, that he had had the honour of dining with the Queen during his absence ; on which she remarked, "Ah ! every- thing in tin, I presume." Her ideas evidently coincided with those of her servants. My experience of Calcutta dinners at that time was, that they very much resembled each other. They were served a la Russe. The centre piece of the table was invariably a large citron melon (called by the natives, "batavee nimbo") with its thick rind cut into ornamental shapes ; and the fish almost always tinned salmon. The table was prettily adorned with flowers, for the natives have a A Dinner Party. 47 wonderful natural taste for combinations of colour ; and a curious fact about Calcutta was, that though very few people had gardens, everybody had a gardener. Whence the flowers are procured is to this day a mystery. On looking into the dining-room before the arrival of our guests, I thought the table looked very much like other people's, whereat I felt contented. At length the critical moment arrived when we were all seated at table, at one end myself, flanked by Mrs. Carter, and Colonel Rawlins, at the other Green, with Miss Carter on his right and her father on his left. He had somehow successfully asserted his right to take her down; but O'Connor was consoled by having a seat next her. I was a prey to the hundred and one anxieties that fill the minds of young married women on such occasions ; and these were not alleviated by observing that Mrs. Carter appeared not to swallow her soup, but to make a show of doing so ; while Rawlins, after tasting a spoonful, growled to his servant, who was standing behind him, " Isko lejao, jaldi " (Take this away quickly). On my own turn arriving, I found to my indescribable horror that there was a marked flavour of castor oil in the concoction ; and on looking round the table it was clear that every one else had discovered it also. The khansamar was standing by the sideboard with a self- satisfied look, totally unconscious that anything was wrong; and Green had to tell him a second time very perempto- rily to take everybody's soup away, before he appeared to .conceive the possibility that there was some reason for its not being drunk. The horrible mystery was after- wards explained. It is the custom in all Indian kitchens 48 Life in the Mo/ussil. to strain the soup through a duster, and every day the bearer used to give out a clean duster for the purpose. It was also the custom in our house to burn castor oil in the lamps. It appeared that the duty of straining the soup had been delegated to the wretched " ticca " cook, who had taken for the purpose a duster that had been already used for cleaning the lamps, and hence the communicated flavour. This was rather trying ; but everybody was anxious to make the best of matters, and the rest of the dinner proceeded smoothly enough until the sweets were served. Among other dishes was one of preserved green- gages, with a lot of fluffy white cream at the top, of which I felt a little proud, and was somewhat disconcerted that Mrs. Carter refused it when offered to her. It was next handed to old Rawlins, who helped himself pretty liber- ally ; but no sooner had he tasted it than he flung himself back in his chair with the exclamation, " Olives, by God." Alas ! it was too true. A bottle of preserved greengages and another of remarkably fine Spanish olives had been given out for the occasion ; and now for the first time I noticed the greengages lying innocently in a cut-glass dish among the dessert. This was too much for Carter's power of self-restraint, and he burst into a loud laugh, in which finally all assembled joined. It was the best way of getting over it, though I saw in prospect some very pretty stories about the Wallahs' dinner-party ; and for three weeks or a month afterwards I was frequently consulted as to the merits of "olive tarts." The evening passed off pretty well. O'Connor and United Service Clnb. 49 Green were both musical, and the latter sang one or two duets with Miss Carter, and made very decided running. O'Connor en revanche sang, accompanying himself, — " If she be not fair to me, What care I how fair she be ? " and was finally allowed to take Miss Carter down to her carriage. Certainly after this our chummery was not so united as it had been. O'Connor confided to me that he thought Green intensely conceited ; while Green intimated his opinion that O'Connor was exceedingly common in man- ner, and could not have mixed much in society before coming to Calcutta. This was about the first week in August ; and two or three days after O'Connor received his certificate from the Board of Examiners of passing in his second language, which would necessitate his proceeding to his station in the interior very shortly. About the same time we received information that our landlord was about to return from the hills, and so we were driven to seek quarters elsewhere. Green and I had been elected members of the United Service Club, — a very excellent institution, where, con- sidering the comforts available, a bachelor can live more enonomically than anywhere else in Calcutta. It was formerly exclusively for military men ; but they got into difficulties, and a lot of civilians joined it, thus prevent- ing its dissolution, while the amalgamation proved very pleasant socially. The Club consists of a number of fine houses, in one of which are the public rooms, while the VOL. I. E 5 as all hunting has to be done as soon before and after sunrise as possible, as the scent soon ceases to lie. The Colonel made no allowances for men who were idiots enough to sit up to dance ; and as we could expect no con- sideration for our late hours, it was not worth while going The Hounds. 137 to bed. Colville had offered me a mount ; and after getting into boots and breeches, Darville and I drove down to the Club, where we found coffee and cheroots, and a large number of horses being led about, of all sorts and sizes, from the high-caste Arab and well-bred Australian to the screaming country-bred pony of the youngest assistant planter. At 5.30 punctually we moved off, though it was not quite light ; but we had a mile to go down the road before reaching any practicable cover, and no minute of the early dawn could be spared. We found, in the very first grass we drew, a good straight-going jackal ; but the hounds were almost too quick, and he was pulled down in ten minutes. It was a very pleasant gallop, with some small ditches and banks and one or two mud walls. But it was always possible to get round the obstacles ; and I believe that the whole field really enjoyed the run. The master was delighted with our morning's sport, for by ten o'clock we had killed four jackals and were on our way home. The pack had only arrived from England some six weeks previously, and had probably cost him not less than ^"iooo, all expenses of journey, etc., included. I subsequently had some experi- ence in getting out packs of hounds ; and, what with dis- honest dealings in England, and losses on the voyage, the result generally was not so satisfactory as in this case.^ Colonel Barlow was, what is very exceptional in India, a man of independent fortune, who preferred being a despot in a small way in India at the head of his regiment, to leading a conventional life at home. This sort of life lasted for ten days, and nobody seemed [38 Life in the Mofussil. to feel the want of sleep or rest, though the hours devoted to the former, out of these 240, were very few indeed. On Friday night our tableaux vivants took place, and were pronounced a success ; but I am not sure that the audi- ence, or at least the whole of it, could be called critical. I appeared in two pictures ; in one as Rizzio, singing to Mary (Mrs. Macpherson — who looked charming) ; and in the other as murdered, the two assassins (Colville and Blake) standing over me. Blake was behind Colville, and in the spirit of mischief must needs give him a pinch just as the curtain drew up. His struggles to avoid laughing set me off, and I shook all over with restrained merriment. Bertram, always prompt, had the curtain quickly lowered ; and afterwards one of the more rustic members of our audience congratulated me on my share of the perform- ance, saying, " You did the death quiver splendidly." \j On the following Thursday, the last racing day, there were to be two steeple-chases. The course consisted of artificial jumps, in which the changes were rung on banks with ditches on the taking-off side, and ditto with ditto on the landing side, and ditto with ditto on both sides. There was one trench, about twelve feet wide, filled with water, dignified with the name of " the brook." In addition to the ordinary stakes, there was a prize for the winner of the first race of a bracelet, subscribed for by all the bache- lors present, and which he was to present to the lady he might consider the belle of the meeting. It was a case of owners up, and the ladies looked forward to the result with considerable interest. An exception was made in favour of Colonel Barlow, who declined to ride in person, but was "/ Knew Your Father." 139 anxious to enter a horse ; and in consideration of all he had done for the public amusement, was allowed to do so, and put up one of his subalterns. Perversely enough, he was the winner ; and the rider had to give him the bracelet to present, which he at first flatly refused to do. However, he was at length persuaded to go up into the race-stand, where all the ladies were seated in a state of great expect- ation, and walking up to a young lady from Dinapore, thrust the prize into her hand, saying, " Take this ; I knew your father," and walked off without another word. The general disappointment was mitigated by the an- ticipation of the next race, in which there were no less than ten starters. I had persuaded Macpherson, against his will, to enter Lunatic, as I had tried him over most of the jumps, and found that he was perfectly able to nego- tiate them. Macpherson pointed out to me, that it was very different doing this leisurely, and with a good deal of coaxing, to going round the course at racing speed. However, my previous success had made me very san- guine, and the consequence was that I found myself at the post with nine others, and we got off in rather a straggling way ; but I suppose the starter despaired of doing any better. Lunatic put his head down, and seemed deter- mined to make a bolt of it. But he cleared the first jump, — a bank with a ditch on the take-off side, — without an attempt at a swerve; and this seemed to put him in a good humour, for he cleared the next five or six in the same way. The " brook " was the last jump but one ; and by way of assistance to keep us straight, a small hedge of hurdles, with boughs of trees stuck in them, had been 140 Life in the Mofussil. made up on each side, to a length of some twenty or thirty yards. Lunatic did not like entering this avenue ; and. when he got to the edge of the brook, turned round, and tried to jump the hedge. I don't recollect anything more until I found Macpherson and one or two others standing over me. But it seems that another rider had come crash against me, and knocked both myself and horse over. He had escaped unhurt, and so had Lunatic ; but the ground was as hard as pavement, and I had fallen outside the hedge and, as it turned out, broken my collar- bone. Nothing very serious, but very annoying. The next morning it was a case of " I told you so " from Macpherson, who nevertheless sold Lunatic at a good profit. So ended my first race-meeting in India, which, up to the time of my accident, I had thoroughly enjoyed. But now came a dull time. I did not get well very quickly ; and as all outsiders had left the station, and those who remained were well occupied, the days of lying down and keeping still, with nobody but native servants to speak to, were long and dreary. In the meantime, there was a " pig-sticking " meet in the neighbouring district of Chuprah, from which came back reports of fierce boars and thrilling incidents. After this, Blake, the Arkwrights and Colville went on a shooting expedition to the Terai in Nepaul, which is on the northern boundary of Tirhoot — a fiat strip of country covered with grass, jungle, and forest, at the foot of the line of hills which are the commencement of the Himalayan range. They brought back a tiger, a bear, and a boa-constrictor. Change Quarters. 141 I, in the meantime, attempted to solace myself by read- ing for my law examination, which was to come off in March, at Patna ; but to which I was not able to go, and consequently, could not present myself until the following October. Darville had gone, and his successor only stayed a month, being promoted to be Magistrate of another neighbouring district, Chumparun ; and his successor, Melville by name, had arrived — a contemporary of mine at Eton, though some two years my senior, now a married man with a large family. Our meeting in this way was a curious coincidence, and a great pleasure to both of us. The new judge, Percival, was a grass widower, and asked me to chum with him in his house on the lake. Bertram was not to return to Mozufferpore, having . been appointed a sort of roving Judge to do work in districts that had fallen into arrear, and had sent instructions for the sale of his goods and chattels ; so that this offer was most acceptable, the more so as Percival was also an Etonian, and an exceedingly pleasant, refined man, and musical. My own belongings were very soon moved ; and after the disposal of Bertram's effects, which gave me occupation for a month or so, I regularly settled down for the dreary dulness of the hot weather. My work was not sufficient to occupy me for the long days. Indeed, on an average, I did not get more than an houi and a half daily ; and as, until I should pass my examination, the importance and the very nature of the cases I could try was very limited, the endless "assaults," varied only by the still more numerous " dakhil kharij " 142 Life in the Mofussil. cases on the Collectoratc side, made me feel nauseated at the sight of a mookhtyar or a suitor. In India it is impossible to lie in bed late ; and I was always up before 6 a.m. ; and on the mornings when the " bobberee " pack went out, of which Macpherson was " master," and I " whip," we used to be up by 4 a.m. How well I remember the feeling of stifling heat, even at that hour, and the misery of putting on breeches that were a little shrunk with frequent washing. However, these very hot mornings did not come till the middle of April, and up to that time it was a very pleasant way of passing the hours up till nine or ten, until bath and breakfast were due. Knowing that work would come some time or other, I always made it a principle to be at office about eleven, and to do all that I had to perform without dawd- ling ; and the consequence was, that I was generally free for the day about 12.30. I then had to come home to a lonely house and wish for evening. It is true that I had my examination to read for ; but that did not come off till October, and I felt certain of ac- complishing that with very little labour. It would only be in the laws and one language — Hindustani, that of the district in which I was serving ; and I was prohibited from taking up Bengali until I had passed in this. The fact of having nothing to do that was compulsory, coupled with the enervating heat, made me feel it distasteful to do any- thing ; so I used to watch the shadows as they lengthened, and wish, — not as Hezekiah, — that they would go forward, and not back. About sunset Percival and the others would come from their respective offices ; and then we had Dreary Hot Weather. 143 rackets or a canter on the Course, and so passed the time till dinner. But I shall never forget the dreariness of those long hot afternoons. Occasionally I used to send a note in to Melville, who, as Joint Magistrate, made over criminal work to me, and beg him to give me something to do. His reply was generally, — " Nothing within your powers. Don't be discontented with your leisure, but make the most of it while you have it/' And his advice was, no doubt, correct. One day, however, he sent me a case, wishing me joy of it at the time, in which some seven or eight native Chris- tians and one Christian woman, were accused of assaulting certain Mohammedans and making a row in the bazaar. It certainly involved the hearing of a number of witnesses that would appal a stipendiary magistrate at home ; for each of the eight defendants had separate witnesses of his own to prove his innocence and absence from the scene of the alleged occurrence. Finally I convicted all the de- fendants, and sentenced them to a small fine each, with the exception of the woman, who was young and exceed- ingly pretty, and who I did not believe could have done much in the row. The next day, while wearying through the afternoon, the Chota Padre Sahib, or little clergy- man, was announced, and the head of the German Lutheran mission in Mozufferpore came in. He was a really good old man, and much respected by all who knew him. " Oh, Mr. Gordon," he said, " I cannot talk about any ordinary subjects ; I want to speak to you about having fined my Christians. It is cruel, and they are all inno- 144 Life in the Mofussil. cent ; and it is the other side that ought to have been fined." •' Mr. Blumenthal," I replied with some dignity, " I de- cided the case to the best of my ability on the evidence adduced. If you are dissatisfied, you can appeal to my superior, the Magistrate of the district, Mr. Blake ; and if he think fit, he can reverse my decision." " Oh, I should not like to hurt your feelings by doing that." " Officials have no feelings on such matters," said I, sen- tentiously, but not truly. " But if you only knew all that I know," he said ; " these men whom you have fined are subjected to persecution for having turned Christians ; and those who were the plaintiffs began the quarrel by calling my men ' eaters of pig ' and ' drunkards.' " " Then you admit there was a quarrel. Why did your Christians all assert that they were not there ? And why did they all bring Christian witnesses to swear that they were not ? " This was rather a stumper for the Padre. " Well," he said, " the others, the complainants, whom you didn't fine, were quite as bad ; and the woman you let off was the worst of all." " My dear sir," I said, having now got the best of it, " I decided the case on the evidence, and you have only heard one side. The evidence, very likely, was a good deal of it false. That of your Christians certainly was ; and all you have said to-day only confirms me in my opinion that I decided rightly. You cannot be so blind Native Christians. 145 as to really think that a native convert is immaculate because he is a Christian." Here the poor old gentleman absolutely began to cry. So I stopped, and he thanked me for letting him speak so freely on the subject, and went away. I don't think he really believed his Christians to be innocent ; but he was doubtless much concerned at the triumph of his Mohammedan adversaries. I cannot say that I found conversion to Christianity im- prove those converts with whom I happened to come in contact. On the contrary, it appeared to me that they became, both socially and morally, degraded by it ; but then it must be admitted that all the converts I knew belonged to the very lowest classes. As far as my expe- rience goes, Christianity is certainly not making progress in India, notwithstanding anything missionaries in Bengal may say to the contrary. Indeed, I have little belief in genuine conversions. It may be better in Madras, though the Madras Chris- tians that I have known have not borne a high character. The usual run of missionaries are not of a very high order of intellect, and by no means fit to argue with the subtle Hindoo, who is scarcely convinced of the necessity of self- denial, etc., etc., when he sees the preachers of the doctrine so fond of comfortable bungalows and married life, and as exacting with their servants and as careful of their rupees, annas, and pice as the rest of the world. It requires men like Xavicr to make an impression on the Oriental mind, and missionaries of the present day do not resemble him. My afternoons were also occasionally enlivened by the VOL. I. I. 146 Life in the Mofussil. visits of native officials and gentlemen of the neighbour- hood, who thought it right and proper to call on the young Hakim. These were a great nuisance, both to the visitor and the visited. If the visitor were an official, he would probably be a native Judge; and after the usual questions about my health, I would generally ask if he had a great deal to do, and he always had; but, by dint of extremely hard work, just managed to get through it. If it were a native gentleman, I used to ask about his crops, and if there was any difficulty about the rents ; and as a general rule, the answer was, — " In consequence of the prosperity of your Highness's boots, the crops are good. (Huzoor ke juti ke ekbal se.) There is a little want of rain ; but we hope that, by your Highness's favour, the rains will soon set in." To ask after wife or daughters would have been an offence, and set down either to ignorance of the proper way to behave, or to sheer rudeness. We in India are often accused of a want of desire to amalgamate with the natives, and cultivate their society. But how can we under these circumstances ? How can you be on friendly terms with a man who believes that your very touch defiles him, and who would not eat his food if, in passing, your shadow had happened to fall on it ? The Maharajah of Durbhungah (who had died a short time before), who was thrown into tolerably constant con- tact with English officials, used, it was discovered, to change his clothes immediately on his return home after an inter- view with them, and not wear them again until they had Native Social Qualifications. 147 been thoroughly purified, and also go through a personal purification himself. His property was now under the protection and control of the Court of Wards mentioned above ; and the manager, who had much improved and beautified the palace grounds at Durbhungah, and made some ornamental gardens, used to send the widow Ranee a choice nosegay every morning, until he found that she never admitted it to her presence, for fear he should have touched it, as he had done once or twice. It is true that some few members of the Brahmo Soma] — that is, the new Deist religion — have thrown off the trammels of caste openly, and are glad to frequent Euro- pean society ; but even these could in very few cases bring the females of their family with them ; and many of them, unfortunately, in consequence of the removal of caste restraint, have become dissolute and drunken, and their / society is not desirable. It is impossible at present that there can be any intimate friendship between natives of India and Europeans. Before this can be altered there must be a complete change of habits on one side or the other. What we think clean, they think dirty, and vice versA. For instance, a well-bred Hindoo gentleman thinks it dirty to eat with a knife and fork, or with any clothing on but a waistcloth ; but I fancy it will be a very long time before we come round to those views, and it will certainly be equally long before they adopt ours. If newspaper reporters could see what really went on in the domestic privacy of the native potentates presented to the Prince of Wales, after their interviews, I fear their accounts, if true, would not have been quite so flattering and satisfactory, v 14S Life in the Mofussil. To show how far this fear of defilement may be carried, I may relate, that when Assistant Magistrate in charge of Durbhungah, I was riding through an out-of-the-way village one hot morning, and met a number of the headmen who expected my coming. They were perfect rustics, but very courteous. I asked them for some water, and some was fetched in a perfectly new earthenware vessel and presented to me on my bridle hand as I sat on horseback ; and they begged me, when I had drunk as much as I wanted, to throw the vessel with the contents remaining on the oppo- site side of the animal, so that the vessel might not be used again in the village, and no sprinkle of the water come near them. All this was done without the faintest suspicion that my feelings could be hurt by it, and I com- plied as a matter of course. From the above it can be easily understood that our social intercourse in India is confined to Europeans only; and as their number in small out-of-the-way stations in Bengal is very limited, it is well to be at peace with all, if possible. One hot morning, just as I was coming out of my bath, Percival sent me in a note that a chuprassie of Blake's had just brought up. It was from Mrs. Blake : — " Dear Mr. Percival, — Will you and Mr. Gordon give us the pleasure of your company at dinner this evening, at eight o'clock ?" On this he had written in pencil, "Must we go?" and underneath it I replied, " I suppose we must," and told the man to give it back to the Sahib. Percival, I knew, very particularly wanted to stay at home that evening, as his piano had arrived some half an hour previously from A Social Contretemps. 149 Calcutta, and he wanted to devote his leisure to unpacking, putting it up, and having a first performance on it ; so on meeting him at breakfast I asked him, "What did you say in answer to Mrs. Blake ?" " Why, I sent the note in to you, and asked if you thought we must go." " And I sent it back to you, saying that I thought we must." " Good heavens ! the idiot must have taken it back to Mrs. Blake. What shall we do ?" It was rather trying ; but I was not in such a mess as Percival, as the note had been addressed to him, and it was for him to answer it, and he had asked the question, " Must we go ?" He was an exceedingly punctilious man, and was evidently in considerable consternation. At last I suggested he should say that he hoped Mrs. Blake would not be offended at an accident that had occurred through the stupidity of a chuprassie ; that it always gave him great pleasure to come to her house, though on this par- ticular occasion he had special reasons for staying at home ; however, that if she would receive us this evening, we should both be delighted to come. This answer was accordingly despatched, and we both went to office ; and in about an hour I got a note from Percival saying that Mrs. Blake had merely sent a " sa- laam," which was equivalent to " no answer." This looked ugly. In the evening I met Blake at the Racket Court ; and he said, with a good-humoured twinkle in his eye, " I shall have the pleasure of seeing you to-night." I saw that he was all right, and on going home to dress I found that 150 Life in the MofussiL Pcrcival had had a formal note from Mrs. Blake, saying that she should be glad to see us at the hour named. It was an awful ordeal, entering the drawing-room ; but Blake was so genial, and evidently so delighted at the whole thing, that we were soon at our ease. I found afterwards that Mrs. Blake had sent our wretched pencilled remarks to him at office, asking his advice, and he had told her to treat the whole thing as a joke. She had scarcely felt equal to this ; but his good humour and good sense had pulled us through, and so a possible big disagreeable had been reduced to a minimum. About this time a small windfall came to me, though from a melancholy cause. Poor Mrs. Macpherson fell seriously ill, and was obliged to go to Calcutta, and her husband found it necessary to accompany her. In addition to his duties as Civil Surgeon, he held the office of District Registrar, for which he was remunerated by fees paid on the registration of each deed. In those days registration was very loosely conducted, and no doubt a very large number of false deeds were registered. There was nothing to prevent false personation, except the identification by two witnesses, who could be picked up for 6d. each ; and unless other parties interested got information that it was sought to register a deed, — and it was more than probable they did not, — there would be no objections offered. All this has since been altered. But, as it then was, the regis- tration of a deed was positively of no value. Notwith- standing this, the number of deeds registered in Tirhoot was very large, and used to bring the Civil Surgeon a profit of about £jo a month, after paying the salaries of three District Registrar. 151 clerks. In his absence the Registrar was allowed to appoint his own substitute, and Macpherson made it over to me, offering half the proceeds as remuneration, which I was only too glad to accept, and which I received for about two months — a very welcome addition to my own pay. We were all very sorry for him when he came back alone, and the return to his solitary house must have been hard indeed. CHAPTER VI. A T MOZUFFERPORE. THE NEW POLICE. — A RIVER TRIP. — EXAMINATION AT PATNA. — SONEPORE FAIR.— SHOOTING PARTY IN THE NEPAUL TERAI. — ILLEGAL ORDERS. DURING that year the Bengal Government had determined to put into practice the much-talked-of re-organization of the police. An Act (V. of 1861) had been passed for the purpose, and it had been decided that this should come into force first of all in the Tirhoot District. The Report of the Madras Commission, issued some time previously, had shown that the police in that province had not been properly controlled ; and that various malpractices, including torture, had been carried on. It was thought, truly enough, that the Bengal District Magistrate had so much to do that he had not time to look after the police ; and a good deal of stress was also laid on the inexpediency of the thief-catcher being the thief-trier ; so it was thought advisable that a special European officer should be appointed to each district, called the District Superintendent of Police, and that he should be provided with special European subordinates to take charge of the sub-divisions of districts. Further, the nomenclature of the native police officials was to be changed. The old officers in charge of the " thannahs," henceforward to be called The New Police. 153 " police stations," were no longer " Thannardar " or " Daroghah," but Inspector, or Sub-inspector. The sub- ordinate stations were no longer "phanre," but "outpost ;" and the old burkundaz became "constable." These new names were pronounced by the natives " poleesh-istashun," " inshpektar," "outposht," and "cunnishshtubble." Uni- forms also were ordained ; and European military caps and jackets were decided upon for the officers, while a red turban, blue blouse with belt, and staff, were substituted for the rather nondescript get-up of the men, who were also taught military drill and provided with muskets. The Commissioners of Divisions, as far as their police powers were concerned, were succeeded by Deputy Inspectors- general ; and a sort of Police Minister was appointed under the title of Inspector-general. In short, the police were to become a separate service under separate officers, and sufficiently drilled to be able to act in large bodies if necessary. The first result to us was a temporary addition to our small society, in the shape of the new Inspector-general (a civilian of some standing), a Deputy Inspector-general, and three District Superintendents, who were to learn their work. Two of these were military men anxious for staff employ, and the third had been in the uncovenanted civil service. The new great man was a friend of Percival's, and put up with us ; the others were distributed among the other officials in the station. Our guest was an exceedingly pleasant fellow, and of a character calculated to make the new arrangements work smoothly if possible, for he at any 154 Life in tJic Mofussil. rate kept Talleyrand's advice of "point de zelc" always in view. This was not the case with all his subordinates, especially the military men, who seemed continually to be on the look-out for offence, and constantly exaggerating little molehills of routine or etiquette into mountains of difficulty and quarrel. Blake, however, was the man of all others to steer clear of avoidable disagreeables, and his even temper and clearheadedness enabled all the intricacies of taking over charge to be got through without any open rupture. It was naturally distasteful to the Magistrate of the dis- trict to give up the direct control of the police. As a matter of fact, it did not save him much routine work ; for, as I have mentioned above, the reports, except those of extra importance, were heard by the Joint Magistrate ; while it deprived him to a considerable extent of the appearance and of the reality of power. As long as the police understood the Magistrate to be their immediate head, they were anxious to please him in every way, and be as subservient as possible ; but now they had another set of officers to look to, and these began certainly by being exceedingly jealous of the Magistrate, and encouraged their subordinates to be independent and disobliging. One feature in the new procedure was, that the Magis- trate should give no orders direct to the subordinate police, but through the District Superintendent only ; and one of our new arrivals, the first appointed to be District Super- intendent of Tirhoot, had instructed his subordinates to carry this order out in the letter as well as the spirit. It so happened that Blake was obliged to go out into the interior of the district soon after he had made over charge "A Rash Inshpektar." 155 of the police, and had sent his tents on, as usual, under the care of his chuprassies. On arriving at his camp he found nothing ready ; and his servants told him that the police of the station had declined to give them any assistance in the way of pitching the tents, or getting supplies of straw and other necessaries. They said the Magistrate was no longer their master, and he must look out for himself. Blake went to the police-station and found the " inshpektar " apparently a little frightened at his own temerity, but firm in refusing assistance, as he had received no orders from the District Superintendent. " Very well," said Blake, with the most perfect good temper, " let me look at your station registers." This also the man declined to do on the same grounds. Now in this he was utterly wrong, though he did not know it. The Magistrate was still the chief officer in the district, and responsible for its tranquillity and proper administration ; and it was of course absurd that he should be denied access to the information contained in the police registers. This supplied Blake with a capital peg on which to hang a report to the Commissioner, which was forwarded to the Government ; and the result was a wigging to the District Superintendent, and the dismissal of the " inshpektar," who had gone beyond the letter, though not the spirit, of the orders of his superior. It was now laid down that the Magistrate of the district, — e.g., the official corresponding to Blake, — could give orders direct to the police which did not affect the internal economy of the " force," as it was now called ; and also, that the Deputy Superintendent of police should carry out 156 Life in the Mofussil. all orders of the Magistrate, recording his non-concurrence by way of protest, if he saw reason to do so, and reporting to his superior officer, the Deputy Inspector-general, who would confer with the Commissioner, and then, if necessary, lay the matter before the Government. Under the cir- cumstances, if a Magistrate did give a wrong order, it would be a longish time before it was rectified ; but it was far better to trust an official of his position with absolute authority for the time, than to allow storms to arise in each district tea-cup. It was only to be expected that the Commissioners, as well as Magistrates, should object to the change, for they too were still held responsible for the peaceful admi- nistration of their provinces, and yet found the Deputy Inspector-general interposed as buffers between them and the police, just as the Magistrates found the District Super- intendents. As years have gone on, the new system has been much modified ; but at first, there can be no doubt that the thing did not work well. A mass of appointments were suddenly created, and, as a necessary consequence, a still more numerous mass of candidates appeared, a very large number of them being military men, whose sole qualification for the posts they sought was a desire to enter staff employ, and get better pay than they did with their regiments. They were useful in drilling the new police, practically the least important part of their work ; but, as a rule, utterly without experience in the management of a body of men, not to be employed in fighting battles, but in the prevention and detection of crime in a peaceful country. Many of them knew little or nothing of the language, and " Galiy 157 were altogether in the hands of their chief native sub- ordinates. They could, however, be credited with a sense of duty, and a desire to do their best ; interfered with only by a strong feeling of what was due to their dignity, and a constant suspicion that their rights were being encroached upon. The most useful class were those who had been Deputy Magistrates in the uncovenanted civil service, and who had been tempted by the hope of promotion and better salary and status to exchange into the police. These understood the supervision of local police and the conduct of cases, and did practically well, though terribly pitched into by military Deputy Inspectors-general for not being up in their drill. Another class were the friends and proteges of people in influential positions, and who of course were useless at starting, though many of them turned out well enough after gaining a little experience. Another difficulty was, that a large number of the old "daroghahs" objected to the new uniform, as entailing loss of caste, and still more to serving under military superiors, who were generally supposed to be quick-tempered and imperious, and to be devoid of the consideration for native manners and customs shown by the civilians. Abuse (in Hindustani, "gali") is looked upon with great dread in India by native gentlemen. Instead of consider- ing that it denies the man from whom it proceeds, they think that the person against whom it is levelled is irre- parably injured by it, and shrink from it more than they would from a blow. The stain of dishonour caused by the 158 Life in the Mofussil. receipt of an abusive epithet cannot be effaced. I recollect some time after this a native gentleman calling on me, and telling me that he thought he ought to pay a visit of cere- mony to a young Assistant Superintendent of Police who had recently arrived at the station ; " But," he said, " I am afraid. He is young and hasty, and how do I know but that some word may come out of his mouth which will disgrace me, without his meaning anything." Admitting that the offensive word might not be intended, perhaps, even not understood, by the person uttering it, the effect on the person addressed would be the same. This being the case, many of the experienced old native police officers threw up their posts, and a great number of the burkun- dazes, who would not put up with the drill. Their places were filled by numbers of recruits from the more war- like populations of the West and North-West, who knew nothing of the people or the localities in which they had to act, and could with difficulty be made to understand how to serve a summons. They were, also, generally of better physique and greater animal courage than the Ben- galees, and bullied the people proportionately, who hated them in return with a bitter hatred. In due time, the watchful supervision of Government detected this, and orders were issued on the subject of recruiting, with a view to check the evil. As may easily be imagined, the new police, though more expensive than the old, were at first not very efficient ; but as things settled down, and the new officers got to understand their work, and it was more and more definitely settled that the District Superintendents were the assistants to and One Partridge for Nineteen Elephants. 159 subordinates of the District Magistrates, the new system began to work much better, and doubtless the subordinate native police were more efficiently controlled. All these disagreeables and difficulties were pretty well got over before I attained the post of District Magistrate ; but, in the meantime, great changes were made. The Deputy Inspectors-general were abolished as useless, and the services of many of the Assistant Superintendents of Police, so hastily appointed, had been dispensed with. About this time there had been a desire in Bengal to diminish the power and importance of the District Magis- trate, and cut him up, as it were, into a number of smaller functionaries ; but this was soon found to be a mistake, and recently the " tendency " has been all the other way. However, I shall have to speak on this matter at greater length further on. During the settlement of the new arrangements in Tirhoot, it was of course necessary for the Inspector- general to move about a good deal, and this he and his satellites did con amore, the more especially as there was plenty of small game to be had, and it was still pos- sible to shoot mornings and evenings. On one occasion he was going to inspect a station called Rowsara, whence also " khabar " (news) of innumerable black partridges had been received. I ventured to bet him I gold mohur (32s.) that he and his party would not bag twenty brace in the day they could devote to the sport. After some haggling, he backed the guns for thirteen brace only. On his return, I asked him the result ; for I had heard that all the forces of the neighbourhood had been put into requisition, and 160 Life in the Mofussil. the resident gentry and police had vied with each other in providing means to " sweep the jungle " as the natives call it ; and 200 coolies (chiefly village chowkeydars) and nineteen elephants had been employed to beat the grasses in which these birds were to be found. " We shot all we saw/' he said, in reply to my ques- tions ; and after some time I elicited the fact that they had only seen one partridge — rather a disproportionate re- turn for all the force employed. These black partridges are migratory birds, in the sense that they move in bodies from one heavy grass to another ; and as these patches are very numerous, it is rather difficult to know where to find them. But a still more annoying fact was the occurrence of a " dacoity " within a mile of his camp, for they had been in tents for one night. A " dacoity " is a robbery with vio- lence by an organized gang, — according to the Penal Code the number must exceed five, — and is the most serious and troublesome class of crime that the police have to deal with. In this case the house of an opulent villager had been attacked by a band of twenty-five or thirty men ; two of the servants and one of the sons had been severely wounded with spears ; and about 1,000 rs. worth in money and jewels carried off. There were plenty of police promptly on the spot soon after news was received of the occurrence, and a deal of energy displayed, but apparently not much discretion, for though a number of bad characters in the neighbourhood were arrested, and an enormous number of witnesses procured to give evidence against them, they were all finally acquitted by Percival when committed to his Court for trial. An Inconvenient Dacoity. 161 This was naturally a subject for cynical remarks, not only by the magisterial authorities, but the subordinate native officials ; but it proved nothing either way, for plenty of dacoities had been previously committed in which no clue to the perpetrators had been discovered. It was very perverse of these particular dacoits, however, to choose this time and place for their exploits. Of course, the police officials said the Judge was all wrong, and they had caught the right men. Perhaps they had. I don't know. Per- sonally, I had no feeling against the new police, for they did not interfere with any exercise of power by me, and I looked upon the new comers as so many more racket- players and additional members of our small society. In due time, however, the Inspector-general Avent off to arrange another district, and we were left with the new District Superintendent and his Assistant, to the dulness of the rainy season, which began this year punctually on the 15th of June, the date given, in geography books about India, for its commencement. The weary sodden months of July and August passed slowly away, and in September we began to cheer our- selves with the prospect of the approach of the cold weather, though it was still two months off. On the 18th of this month began the worship of the Goddess Doorga, commonly called the Doorga Poojah, which lasts for a fortnight, and answers in Bengal somewhat to our Christmas holidays in England. The festival had not quite such a hold of the people in Behar as in Bengal proper; but nevertheless the Courts, criminal as well as the others, were closed for ten days, the troublesome pettifogging attorneys ceased to VOL. 1. M 1 62 Life in the Mofussil. seek for clients, and even " dacoits " refrained from their nefarious pursuits during this sacred interval. Melville determined to make a rush down to Calcutta to see his sister there, the wife of one of the Govern- ment Secretaries, and asked me if I would like to go with him. I was only too glad of the chance of a change, and Blake gave us both leave to go on our own responsibility ; that is, he undertook to look after the district and do for Melville anything that might be necessary during his absence, while we should have to take upon ourselves the consequences of the Govern- ment finding fault with us for absenting ourselves from our districts without regular leave. We hoped to reach Calcutta in three days, as the railway had now been opened as far as Monghyr, which lay on the other bank of the Ganges, a little lower down than the south-easternmost corner of the Tirhoot district. We were to drive to an indigo factory situated on the river bank, and then take boat, which we expected would carry us to Monghyr, as it was down stream, easily in the course of one night. We left Mozufferpore on a Sunday morning, and arrived at the hospitable planter's house in time for a midday meal. He had been written to beforehand, and provided a country boat, and sent some food on board. Unfortu- nately, he had not himself inspected the boat, and on coming down to the ghat to see us off, expressed some misgiving as to its fitness. It was a very clumsy affair, veiy wide in proportion to its length, and covered with thatch, the covering coming so far forward as to leave A River Trip. 16 j very little room in the bows for rowing purposes. In fact, there was scarcely space for four rowers, and our host had stipulated for six. But the weather was calm and the stream was strong ; so we still thought to reach Monghyr very early in the morning, about 4 a.m. We said good-bye to him in good spirits, and for the first two or three hours seemed to make fair progress. We determined to dine early, and go to sleep as soon as possible, as we had no candles with us, and it would be rather dreary work sitting in the dark, or with the light only of the stinking oil lamp that could be procured from the boatmen. Our provisions consisted of a very small leg of lamb, a small loaf of bread, about half a tin of sweet biscuits, and a bottle of claret. This was considered ample to last us till 4 a.m. the next morning, so we ate carelessly, not thinking we should care to see any of the remnants of the food again. But towards the small hours I was awoke by the boat rolling in a very uncomfortable way, and putting my head out in front of the thatch, I found that the men had ceased rowing, and that we were wallow- ing in the trough of a pretty considerable swell, caused by a strong south-easterly wind. I woke Melville, and with a little British energy we set the rowers to work again. But it was soon clear that it was impossible to keep the head of the clumsy vessel to the wind, and that, as far as onward progress was concerned, we were utterly helpless. The wind increased in strength every minute, and very soon rain began to pour down with tropical fury. As day- light broke, we saw the right-hand bank, towards which the wind was driving us, about a mile off; and we hoped 164 Life in the Mofussil. to reach this, and take shelter until the wind should drop, or, if that seemed unlikely, retrace our steps. But while considering what was best to be done, we felt a violent bump, the boat heeled over on one side, and then remained stationary. We had stuck on a sand bank, covered with only about half a foot of water. Oars and poles were at once put in requisition to shove us off; but the wind drove us on, and though Melville and I worked as hard as the rest, all our efforts were of no use, and we became convinced that we must stick where we were until the wind should moderate. My solar topee (pith hat) was whirled away during the struggle, but that was the only result. As the day passed on, about 6 a.m., I began to feel hungry, and would have given a good deal for a hot cup of coffee and a piece of toast. We looked at our leg of lamb, or rather the small remnant. There was no bread left, and we each had a bit of meat and a sweet biscuit, not a nice mixture, our drink being drawn from the holy Ganges, which trouble- some river we both cursed from the bottom of our hearts. The day wore wearily on, still the same leaden sky, the same torrents of rain, and the same unceasing plash of the waves driven by the wind against our half-heeled-over boat. The thatch, too, was leaking ; and Melville and I sat close together on a space about a yard square, which seemed drier than the rest. There was no danger, and consequently no excitement to keep up our spirits. The roof of the boat was not high enough to allow us to stand upright ; we had nothing to read, so all we could do was to squat, and endeavour to talk. In this respect the boat- Stranded in the Ganges. 165 men were better off than we ; for natives have any amount of sleep at command, and they lay huddled up like so many bundles of rags, apparently heedless of everything, but probably happy because able to be lazy. About midday we felt hungry, and again turned our attention to the remnant of our leg of lamb. To our dis- may it had turned green. The damp and muggy heat combined had caused this. With many misgivings we committed it to the stream, to be digested by some river turtle or alligator, and satiated our present pangs with a few sweet biscuits each. Evening came on, but with no change, and we were content to dine off a handful of dry rice, given us by the boatmen ; for the wind and rain was such that they could not even attempt to light a fire in our exposed situation. They had, moreover, very little rice with them, as they expected to buy some cheap in the Monghyr bazaar. As the darkness settled down, we tried to compose ourselves miserably to sleep, and par- tially succeeded, so that the night was less dreary than the day. But the morning dawned dismally, without break in the sky or cessation of the wind and the rain. Added to this, our food supply had nearly collapsed, and we were reduced to two sweet biscuits each. About ten, a steamer passed us, a long way off; but without taking any notice of our signal of distress, viz., a pair of trousers, belonging to Melville, hauled up the mast. We used these in order to show the steamer people that Europeans were on our country boat. We anathema- tized this vessel pretty well ; but two hours afterwards, another passed us with the same result, and then our 166 Life in I In- Mofussil. indignation knew no bounds. I mentally composed a tre- mendous letter to the Englishman newspaper on the in- human conduct of river steamer captains, which, as may be supposed, was never committed to writing. Probably we were not seen, and if we were, I doubt if they could have helped us without considerable risk ; for it seemed we had got on a long strip of shallow, to which they were obliged to give a wide berth, and down the side of this a tremen- dous current was running ; and had they stopped near, they would probably have been stranded like ourselves. For all this we were not prepared to make allowances at the time ; and to add to our discomfort, the bottom of the boat being now pretty well waterlogged, the rats began to make their appearance in our neighbourhood, and to climb about the thatch roof. We consoled ourselves with the reflection that they would not find much to eat, " Unless it should be our own unhappy persons," I added, with a forced smile ; but Melville suggested that it might be the other way, and we should eat them. But even this gale must have an end, and looking out hopelessly about 5 p.m., I thought I detected a light appearance in the sky to windward ; and surely enough, half-an-hour afterwards, a gleam of sun shot through the clouds, and the wind had decidedly moderated, and the rain ceased. We also found, considerably to our surprise, that the river had fallen so much as to leave a small dry bit of sand on one side of our boat, and it was a relief to get out and stand on this. Presently we saw shoot out from the bank, some three-quarters of a mile distant, a very tiny dinghy, and, as it approached, we saw it was A Tame Buffalo. 167 navigated by an old greyheaded creature, who seemed afraid to come near us when he found we were Europeans. How- ever we got the boatmen to speak soothingly to him ; Melville, too, addressed him as his father and brother, and by every other endearing term he could think of, and I made rupees glisten by holding them in the sun, which was now shining. At length he was persuaded to come alongside ; and, with much caution and difficulty, Melville and I got into his frail craft, for the wind was still very strong, and reached the bank. The appearance of this was not very encou- raging, for it looked a mass of black streaming mud, about eight or ten feet high. We divested ourselves of our boots and socks, and even our trousers, and tying them in bundles on our backs, plunged on to, or rather into, this, and reached the top, black above our knees and our elbows. There we found a herd of tame buffaloes, enjoying the slimy nature of things in general, guarded by a small herd-boy, who was riding on the back of one of the huge ugly brutes, some hundred yards off. It is a curious fact that these creatures are so amenable to their keepers, who are generally small children, and so irate at the sight of a white man ; and this was most disagreeably illustrated by one of them making a rush at me. I turned to fly, but my naked feet prevented my making any pro- gress in the mud ; and so I held up both my arms, stood firm, and shrieked. This stopped the animal long enough to give the small boy time to drive him off, which he did quite easily, and then ran away in as great fear as if he had seen two evil spirits. i6S Life in the Mofussil. However, the village was only a couple of hundred yards off, and going towards it we found a pool where we washed our arms and legs, and made ourselves look a little more respectable, and then went on to where a small group had assembled to stare at us, and of whom Melville demanded in as authoritative a tone as possible where the "jeyt ryot," or headman, was to be found. This indi- vidual was soon forthcoming, and we then inquired where the nearest police station was ; and this to our sorrow we heard was eight miles away. We also found that we were in the district of Monghyr. " Then," said Melville, " send a messenger to the than- nah, say that two Hakims from Tirhoot have been wrecked here and want two palanquins as soon as possible to go to Barh, which we found was some thirty miles off, and tell the police to send information to the magistrate of Monghyr and the magistrate of Tirhoot." This was done to make the villagers believe that we were bond fide Hakims, and not European loafers only ; and it had the effect of rendering them willing to oblige us. The "patwarree," or village accountant, placed a room, that is, a mud floor covered with a thatch and surrounded by mud walls, at our disposal ; and here we prepared to pass the night, for it was now dark, and there was no chance of our getting the palanquins before the following morning. The village was inhabited by Hindoos, and so no animal food, eggs or fowls, could be procured ; but some rice and vegetable curry was prepared for us, and presented to us on plantain leaves. This we ate with our fingers. We were starving ; and yet plunging my fingers into the The Patwarree s Hut. 169 greasy mess had such a nauseating effect on me that I could scarcely swallow any of it. Melville was of stronger stomach, and ate all that I left as well as his own share. We then lay down to pass another miserable night on a " takhtaposh/' a sort of low table on which the patwarree used to squat in the day-time with his papers round him, and in which I found the nail heads even harder than the boards. Sleep was not possible, and it was an inex- pressible relief when day began to make its appearance. The wind had by this time quite gone down, and the boatmen had managed to bring our baggage on shore. Soon the two palanquins appeared, accompanied by a policeman ; and after taking a draught of milk, and sign- ing two certificates, one for the "jeyt ryot" and one for the " patwarree," both written out by the latter, that they had given us all necessary assistance, we started for the nearest European habitation. These certificates would be carefully preserved by these two men, and brought forward as evidence of their being good characters in case of their getting into trouble by any chance afterwards. We had happened to come upon a low-lying tract of country, suited only for the cultivation of the heavy rice crop, so that there were no planters' bungalows in the neighbourhood. Had there been, we should have been better off. As it was, we were anxious to see who was the inhabitant of the nearest European habitation, for the natives could only tell us he was a "railway sahib." In about two hours we approached the bungalow, and saw the sahib sitting in the verandah. My heart fell at the sight of him, for it was clear he was one of the lower i yo Lift in the MofussiL class of employes, and I longed for something civilized both to talk to and to cat. He turned out to be a sort of overseer, and was for his position a decent enough fel- low ; but his means of hospitality were not great. However he did his best, and supplied us with some fried slices of village pig (a food we would not have looked at on any ordinary occasion), and some gin and water. Being all but starved, we found these good ; and when discussed, our host, who had a trolly at his disposal, said he would give us a lift to Mokameh, where his superior the engineer lived, and whom I had met on my journey up, some nine months previously. The rails had been laid as far as Barh in that interval, though the line was not open for traffic. He was a mild-looking man ; but his conversation on the trolly was most truculent. According to his own account, he had killed several game-keepers in England before coming out to India, and committed other exploits of a similar character. We nevertheless parted on good terms about 3 p.m., and were delighted to find ourselves hospitably received once more in a properly furnished bungalow, with a chance of getting something fit to eat. Our new host was much interested and amused with the recital of our adventures, at which we could now afford to laugh, and promised to send us on by trolly to Barh the next day, after we were refreshed with a proper dinner and a good night's rest. The next day we reached Barh, in the Patna district ; and I found that my former host had taken advantage of the Doorga holidays to go into head-quarters, to consult Alison the Magistrate ; but at the dak bungalow we found the new Assistant Superin- A Truculent Plate-layer. 171 tendent of Police, who had only recently been appointed here. He proved to be an old acquaintance of Melville's and with his assistance we soon procured a decent- looking boat to cross us once more to the Tirhoot side of the river. With some misgivings I trusted myself again to the treacherous stream ; but this time nothing adverse happened, and about sunset we cast anchor close to the hospitable bungalow of the Begum Serai factory. Here again our adventures were the source of considerable amusement, and a running coolie was sent into the station with a letter for Mrs. Melville, to allay any anxiety that she might feel, and also to prepare relays of horses on the road, for we had sixty-five miles to drive, and conse- quently thirteen horses were necessary. The following evening saw us safe once more in Mozuf- ferpore ; where our movements had been the subject of much speculation, for Melville's brother-in-law had been telegraphing in all directions to know what had become of him ; and Mrs. Melville had in consequence been seriously alarmed. The only practical result was, that we both got a wigging from Coldham the Commissioner, for absenting ourselves from our district without leave. In due time the police report was forwarded from Monghyr to Blake, for information, stating that two Europeans calling themselves Tirhoot Hakims had come on shore at Barheeia (the name of the village), and that they, the police, had furnished them with palanquins and everything necessary to go on to Barh. For some time after this we were a good deal pestered with inquiries as to how we had enjoyed Calcutta. i7- Life in the Mofussil. I think the adventure is worth relating, as showing to what straits Europeans may be reduced in a highly culti- vated and civilized part of Bengal, if thrown entirely upon native resources. My next journey took place a month later, when I had again to cross the Ganges to get to Patna for my ex- amination. The river had begun to subside ; but yet it was very different in appearance to the series of streams and sandbanks I had traversed in the previous cold weather ; and by making a tour of the large island, which was now only just above water, a boat could go across at one stretch. There was a favourable breeze blowing, and I quite enjoyed the sail. There was a pleasant party at Alison's hospitable table that evening, for several young civilians had come in from the neighbouring districts, and my starvation trip was a source of considerable merriment. In these days the examination for the whole province under Coldham's jurisdiction was conducted by the Local Committee at Bankipore, consisting of Coldham, Lawson, Alison, and a native Deputy Magistrate. The papers, however, were issued by a Central Committee in Calcutta. There were four papers in all, one containing twelve ques- tions on Revenue Law, Rent Law, and all work done on the Collectorate side ; another containing a similar number on Criminal Law and all work done on the Magistrate's side of the office ; a piece of prose to be translated into very grammatical Hindustani ; and a second piece to be dictated into Hindustani, to be written down by a native clerk. We also had to hear the record of a case read out, and write a decision upon it, and converse with two classes First Standard Examination. 173 of natives — an educated man and a rustic, and read off some ordinary documents written in shikust, or the run- ning hand in the vernacular. The Revenue was much the tougher of the two law papers, as it embraced a great variety of subjects — among others, the regulations for the Permanent Settlement of Lord Cornwallis ; the law of resumptions by Government of illegal grants ; the law for the collection of the revenue ; the Excise, Opium, and Salt laws ; the Stamp Acts ; the law of Batwarra, or division of estates ; the law of the ac- quisition of land for public purposes ; and the great Rent Law Act of 1859, which had only recently come into working ; and, though mentioned last, by no means least, the Rules of Practice based upon these laws and framed by the Board of Revenue. The Criminal Paper embraced the new Penal and Cri- minal Procedure Codes, the new Police Code, the Cattle Trespass Act, the Ferry Laws, the Municipal Act, Rail- way Act, and the Law of Evidence, then Act II. of 18^5. The first two of these Codes I think I knew pretty nearly by heart, as this was the only sure way of being able to answer the questions in this paper, the very words of the Act being required by the Examiners. E.g., " When is a person said to use force to another ? " In answer to such a question it was necessary to give the definition in the Penal Code word for word, and a precious long one it is. I insert it here as a specimen. " Sec. 349. — A person is said to use force to another if he causes motion, change of motion, or cessation of motion to that other, or if he causes to any substance such motion, 1 74 Life in tJie Mofussil. change of motion, or cessation of motion as brings that substance into contact with any part of that other's body, or with anything which that other is wearing or carrying, or with anything so situated that such contact affects that other's sense of feeling ; provided that the person causing the motion, or change of motion, or cessation of motion causes that motion, change of motion, or cessation of mo- tion in one of the three ways hereinafter described : " First. By his own bodily power. "Secondly. By disposing any substance in such a manner that the motion, or change or cessation of motion, takes place without any further act on his part, or on the part of any other person. " Thirdly. By inducing any animal to move, to change its motion, or cease to move." We examinees used to chafe a good deal at these ques- tions, saying, "What is the use of asking them, when we always have the books at our side for reference in actual practice ? " But no doubt the fact of having to learn our laws like this was of great use in making us familiar with them, and enabled us to know where to look when we had the books beside us. The questions, possibly, were not al- ways very intelligently set ; but the mere reading for the examination, though distasteful, was beneficial. In the Vernacular Examination the insistance on gram- matical accuracy was carried to an almost absurd pitch. There is a wretched particle "ne" in Hindustani, which spoils all fluency and neatness in long sentences, if used in accordance with the exigences of grammar, and which is disregarded freely by native clerks in writing orders and A Method of Giving Marks. I 75 reports, but neglect of which brought many a glibly talk- ing and writing examinee to grief in the translation paper. The paragraph set for dictation consisted generally of long and involved English sentences, and seemed to me as a rule more difficult than that given for translation ; but as what emanated from the mouth of the young " Hakim " was taken down by a subservient native clerk only too anxious to make the result as good as possible, in many cases this was not so trying a test as it was intended to be. It was amusing to watch how civil all we examinees were to this underling ; and it was very important that those who dictated towards the end of the list should be so, for by that time he had got an inkling of what the English really meant, and could be of powerful assistance. The examinations are now conducted in a much stricter way ; and the Local Committees give marks only in the subject of conversation, all the papers being looked over by the Central Committee, in Calcutta ; but at this time everything was done in a very friendly way. Lawson superintended my conversation with the Deputy Magis- trate who represented the educated gentleman in my case. He had, as I knew, a small boat ; and I directed the con- versation to this, and asked him if he would lend it to Lawson, or if he were afraid, Lawson being stout, to say the least of it. Lawson here interposed very good humouredly, said I conversed very well, and gave me full marks. Two days after both law papers were finished, I went over to see Lawson in the early morning, and found him engaged in what he called looking over them. Full marks i 76 Life in the MofussiL for cacli paper were 160 ; and to pass, it was necessary to get 100. Lawson's plan was, to see who had got 97, or thereabouts, and give them an additional four or five marks each, so as to bring them over the 100. Alison and the Deputy Magistrate had already marked the papers carefully and conscientiously no doubt, and it remained for Coldham and Lawson to do the same, when an average would be struck by adding the marks given by all the examiners together, and dividing by four. Lawson's theory was, that it was a waste of labour to make four men look over one paper ; and that if a man got 97 marks he must know enough about it to make him fit to pass, and therefore, as far as he was concerned, he passed him. It so happened that I had plenty of marks in both papers, so that I did not want any assistance ; but it occurred to me that it would be rather hard for other examinees, if mem- bers of other Local Committees did not happen to hold the same views. The reading documents in the vernacular was also easily got over in these days ; but now is the greatest stumbling block to examinees, for instead of having to stammer through two or three lines, as I had, they have to write out the whole thing in the Roman character. The shikust Hindustani writing is exceedingly difficult to learn to read, and it requires long and constant practice to do it fluently. On the whole, my few days of examination were very plea- sant, and I felt pretty confident that I had passed ; for though all the proceedings of the Locals had to be con- firmed by the Centrals in Calcutta, yet this was a mere matter of form, and it was only a question of waiting until Regret for Lost Time. 177 they should choose to hold a meeting and order the names of those who had passed to be inserted in the Calcutta Gazette. Ravvlinson had passed the First, or Lower Standard at the previous examination, and was now in for the Second, or Higher Standard, in which the papers set were on the same subjects, but supposed to be more difficult, and in which an examination in Bengali was included. He was now empowered to try a larger range of cases, and could inflict a fine of 200 rs., or .£20, and sentence to a term of six months' imprisonment ; and he could also adjudicate cases under the rent law. In fact, I felt he was ahead of me ; and as he was also now drawing 50 rs. a month, or £60 a year, more than I was, I was sensible already of the importance of the time I had lost in coming round the Cape, instead of by the overland route ; and in dawdling in Calcutta. Further too, his suit with Miss Coldham appeared to be prospering, and he seemed in a fair way to a very success- ful start. I felt rather sad on my return journey to the trial of my everlasting assault cases, and looked eagerly forward to the report of the Central Committee ; but they were lazy, and no mention was made of us in the Gazette until January. I was afterwards told that one of the senior members of the Central Committee could not be got to attend the meeting, hence the delay, which was altogether uncalled for and most annoying to all of us examinees. However, in the meantime the cold weather came on ; there were no more dreary hot afternoons to lounge hope- VOL. I. w i ;S Life in the Mofussil. lessly through ; and on the 16th of November commenced the great Soneporc fair, with which is combined the pleas- antest race meeting in the world. This has been described in detail by the able author of " Letters from a Competi- tion Wallah "; but this year was the last occasion in which it may be said really to have been sacred to the enjoy- ment of the European inhabitants of the surrounding dis- tricts, for in succeeding years the railway was open, and the European society was quadrupled. I will shortly state that we Europeans took up our quarters in a large grove of trees bordering on an open plain, in which lay the race-course. The whole grove was filled with tents, one wide way being kept clear as a sort of street through the whole. Blake had asked Per- cival and myself to join his camp, as he had plenty of tents at his disposal ; and this was a very agree- able arrangement for us. Sonepore itself lies at the point of confluence of the river Gunduk with the Ganges. The Gunduk separates Tirhoot from the neighbouring district of Chuprah, so that we Tirhoot officials had only this stream, — a broad and rapid one it is true, — between our- selves and our own jurisdiction. The route to it was down the Hajeepore road, by Gooriah Ghat, the place where I had slept on my first journey up to Mozufferpore. Gooriah now presented a very different scene to that occasion, as all the accommodation was taken up, and innumerable vehicles quite filled up the road in front of the bungalow. Blake spent a night there enfamille, but most of us merely stopped to change horses. Percival and I left Mozufferpore before daylight, and Soncpore. 1 79 reached Gooriah just in time to find Blake installing his family in their barouche. They seemed rather crowded and somewhat fretful, and I felt glad that I was un- attached, at any rate for this occasion ; and I think Percival for the moment did not regret that his family were some 7,000 or 8,000 miles away. We offered Blake a seat in our dog-cart, which he accepted with some alacrity, telling his wife that he would go on ahead with us and see that the boat was ready at the crossing. This, probably, was not his sole reason ; but yet it was really a good one, for the resources of the ferry were completely overtaxed on this occasion ; and without a certain display of authority and European energy, hours might elapse before a crossing could be effected. The ghat presented a scene of indescribable confusion. Elephants were being urged into the water, having been first divested of their loads, in order that they might swim across under the guidance of their mahouts. When an elephant swims, he keeps a very small piece of his back above water, or else sufficiently near the surface to enable the mahout to stand upon it and direct his movements. They are very nervous animals, and easily lose their heads. The day previously one had got frightened, refused to obey its mahout, and swam about without approaching either bank, until it sank and was drowned. Its body had been washed on to a shallow ; and we could now see it, with numerous vultures and other birds of prey hovering in the neighbourhood, waiting until the tough hide should be sufficiently decomposed to become penetrable by their beaks. i So Life in the Mofussil. There were horses, cattle, and sheep in numbers, buggies and native carts, and native goods, and European bag- gage, tents, and tent furniture, waiting in quantities which it seemed impossible should ever get across. However, on Blake's appearance, a boat which had just returned from the opposite shore was kept clear for him and for us ; and by the time we had got our dog-cart on board, the barouche with the rest of his party appeared. Under the Hakim's eye the ferrymen worked hard; and we were soon on our way to the other side, whereas an unfortunate native passenger with any baggage would probably have had to wait for hours. As we drove up the street of canvas dwell- ings on the other side, from every tent already occupied friendly faces looked out and friendly voices shouted a welcome. Our servants had gone on the previous day with our baggage, so that we found all comforts ready. Sonepore fair, of course, originates in a religious cere- mony, which consists in bathing at the point of confluence of the Gunduk with the Ganges, at the very moment that the November moon is at the full. Such bathing washes away all previous sins ; but it must be done at the exact moment, and to this end crowds assemble and await the signal given by a Brahmin, who sits on a small sand hillock overlooking the spot. He is supposed to give the signal a few seconds before, in order to give as many bathers as possible time to get into the water ; and the crowd at the moment he gives it is a very extraordinary sight. People of both sexes, of all ages and ranks (Hin- dus, of course), make a simultaneous rush to the water. Many accidents take place, and occasionally some are The Washing Away of Sins. 181 drowned ; but to be drowned on such an occasion is about equal to being crushed under the wheel of Juggernath's car, and the fate of any one so dying cannot be considered a cause of sorrow. The Brahmins, on the one hand, like a death or two, as it adds to the fame and sanctity of the ceremony ; but on the other, they are afraid that too many would lead to disagreeable restrictions on the part of the officials of the unsympathetic British Government, who, as it is, place policemen here to keep order and prevent all accidents, as far as may be possible. There are too, I am sorry to say, many impious thieves, who take advantage of the frenzied fervour of those who are anxious to wash away their sins, to ply their calling very successfully. We Europeans further inland, in our pleasant canvas town under the shade of the grove, took little notice of these things, but devoted ourselves to Anglo-Saxon pleasures with very remarkable energy. The amusements were of a nature similar to those described at the Mozufferpore race meeting ; but as nobody's tent was very far from anybody else's, and as everybody had brought a large amount of good cheer which he wished to share with his friends, the amount of eating and drinking was very great. I never saw so much hospitality pressed into ten days. One additional thing to do, was a visit to the elephant and horse fairs, the latter being accompanied with some risk, as every other animal seemed to be as dangerous as a man-eating tiger. They were mostly blindfolded, and their fore and hind feet securely tied ; but not unfrequcntly [82 Life in the Mofussil. they managed to break loose, and then the fighting and kicking and biting became a serious matter. The ball-room was in the race stand, a masonry build- ing of some pretensions; and as it possessed a good polished wood floor, and this season was not overcrowded, the dances were very enjoyable. The supper and the utensils wherewith to eat it were provided from the race fund ; and the whole thing was on a much grander and more finished scale than that at Mozufferpore. The weather was lovely, and the nights bright moon- light ; and to me ten more enjoyable days cannot be imagined. I had, of course, no cares of state ; but Blake had a mass of correspondence forwarded daily, as had all the other District Collectors here assembled. Poor Mel- ville had to rush back in the middle of the enjoyments to take up a serious dacoity case, which some most dis- obliging dacoits had chosen to commit on the second day of the meeting ; and as he had to leave all his family fully established in the canvas town, with a good deal of his household furniture, his bungalow must have looked very bare, and all his surroundings have been melancholy. He doubtless was better pleased than most of us when we all returned to our respective homes and occupations. In December, Blake went out bachelor-wise into camp, and took me with him, to learn something of district work, theoretically ; practically, for company's sake, and to give me a chance of some shooting. I know that I did little else but shoot large quantities of duck and black par- tridges, and occasionally found the time rather long when Blake was getting through heavy bundles of correspond- Special Powers. 183 ence sent out to him by post, and in which I could be of no use. Tirhoot is a very pleasant district for camping out, with numerous pleasant groves of trees under which to pitch tents ; but, as a fact, there is not so much actual work to be done here as in the districts of Eastern Bengal, where the great rivers change the whole face of the country in their neighbourhood, one may say, almost annually, and constant re-settlements of the land are necessary. At length, in January came the news that I had passed by the Lower Standard, and I was empowered now to try various criminal cases of a nature that I could not take up before ; and I could pass sentences of six months' im- prisonment, with or without labour, and a fine up to 200 rs. Technically speaking, I was invested with " special powers," and on the Collectorate side, I could try cases under the Rent-law Act X. of 1859. Further, my pay was increased by 50 rs. a month, making it 450 rs. monthly, or £540 a year. I had to undergo a further examination of a more difficult nature in the same subjects, and also in Bengali in April. All this might have come to me some two months sooner, had it not been for the laziness of the member of the Central Committee above mentioned ; and I had very little time to get much Bengali ready by April next, the more so as my work increased with my increased powers. My resolution was to work very hard ; but alas ! in the middle of January came the Mozufferpore races, all the more enjoyable now that I knew everybody, and in February Blake had a shooting party to the Terai, and [84 Life in the Mofussil. asked mc to go with him. The races passed off much as those of the previous year ; but the jungle trip was my first experience of the kind, and I looked forward to it with the keenest anticipations of enjoyment. We had fifty miles to drive to the Nepaulese frontier, where all roads ended and we had to take to horseback. Our party consisted of Blake and a friend, Colville, Macpherson, and myself; and we started in two batches, Colville and myself in the early morning, and the rest later on in the day, they taking on the various relays of horses as we left them at each place. I think it may be laid down as a rule, that young men in India who have any horses at all, have vicious ones, and I was no exception to this rule. Two that I had on the road were splendid goers when once started, but the diffi- culty was to start. The one generally refused to move at first, — I had bought her at Sonepore, — but once off, went very fast, and never tired. It required very careful coaxing and management to get her off. The other was only too anxious to start, and gave no time to get into the vehicle to which she was attached ; the only plan was, to creep up behind, without allowing her to suspect any designing person of a desire to enter the dog-cart, and be content with being able to get one foot on the step. The moment she felt the pressure on the shafts, away she would go ; and if checked, became very violent, — she was a very big, powerful animal, — and generally upset whatever she might be draw- ing into the nearest ditch. I understood them both, and Colville understood all horses, — though he rather chafed at having to give in to En route to the Terai. 185 their caprices in this way, — so we got on capitally, and arrived at our rendezvous, — a hospitable planter's bunga- low, at the very edge of the district,— in excellent time. We expected the others some three hours later, in time to go on all together to our first camp before dark. But evening came on, and there were no signs of them. I began to get a little anxious ; and as Colville and I knew that none of the trio behind were good at the manage- ment of horses, we were afraid they might have broken down altogether. Our host was the only person pleased, as it gave him the certainty of company for one evening at any rate. We had half finished our dinner, which had been keep waiting some time, when the sound of wheels was heard at the door ; and on hastening out we found our three friends, not in the best of tempers. " You're a pretty fellow to trust to for daks ! " growled Macpherson. " Never mind," said our host ; " don't say anything about your misadventures until you have had some dinner, and then you can grumble as you please." So our repast was resumed; and in the genial presence of bottled beer, accidents that had appeared simply irrita- ting before, now began to assume somewhat of the ludicrous ; and finally we got a good-humoured account of the details. It appeared that the first-mentioned of the two mares had shown signs of an unwillingness to start, and Mac- pherson had in an ill-judged way used the whip. This decided her not to move, and she had stubbornly resisted all efforts to do so for a whole hour. At length the syce's plan was adopted, of leaning with all his weight against 1 86 Life in the Mofussil. one shaft; when the marc shifted a little, the other syce, belonging to the horse recently taken out, began to lean against the other shaft; and so, as she got no ease stand- ing still, she finally elected to go on, and carried them through the dak splendidly. At the next dak, the syce had warned them of the peculiarities of the big marc; but Macpherson, who was to take the back seat of the dog-cart, was not sufficiently quick in jumping in, and as she plunged forward lost his hold and was left on his back in the middle of the road. Blake, who was driving, had to pull up, whereat the mare became violent, backed them all into the ditch, and turned out him and his friend, and all the guns and things they had with them. She also fell down herself. They promptly sat on her head and undid the harness, and hoped to get her out without any breakage ; but just at the last moment, she gave one kick and sent one of the shafts flying. Nobody, however, was hurt, and a speci- men of the all-useful bamboo was procured and tied on to serve as a shaft ; but then it was found impossible to harness her again, and after many vain attempts, it was decided to re-harness the other mare, and trust that she would consent to start. She was somewhat subdued with her previous work, and now an obedient, instead of a capricious servant, for she went off at once, and did her second stage as well as the first. " And now," said Blake, " what do you mean, sir, by endangering your superior officer's life in this way?" " I can lend my superior officer horses," I replied, " but I can't give him understanding- how to manage them." Two Ill-tempered Horses. 187 Every man stands up for his own animals ; but my remark was not justified by the facts. Blake was much too good-tempered to be angry, however ; and I may here mention the end of these animals. The first I sold soon afterwards at the price I paid for her. The big mare I kept obstinately for some two years. She smashed one dog-cart of mine afterwards; and I finally lent her to a friend, whom she upset, and falling down herself too, tried to kick the shaft away as on this occasion ; her leg however came in contact with the step of the dog-cart instead, and she died from the effects of the injury. The fact is, that with us horses were always driven before they were properly broken ; and I mention the above to show the sort of thing that constantly occurred when driving long stages. Sometimes the escapes were marvellous. Soon after this, a friend of mine was driving his sister and her little girl over a bridge where a weak bamboo railing served as a parapet. In crossing, the horse took fright at something, and, refusing to go on, began to back against the railing. He saw the danger and said to his sister, "Get out and take the child." She jumped out ; but as he was handing her the child, the railing gave way, and he and the little girl, cart, and horse were precipitated into the water, some fifteen feet below. The sister, in relating the story to me, said she recollected nothing more till she found herself in the water, — which was fortunately only between three and four feet deep, — groping for the child, and saw her brother doing the same. He finally caught her by the hair and handed her to his sister. The final result of all this was, that beyond the 1 88 Life in the Mofussil. bending of one step of the dog-cart, and the ducking and fright, no damage was done. The villagers of the neighbourhood came to their assistance, and they were able actually to re-harness the horse and drive on. The next day we rode on to our camp, some twenty miles across the frontier. Blake had a pass from the Nepaulese authorities, so we entered that country without hindrance and found our camp in the afternoon on the banks of the Bhagmatty, a river flowing down from the Nepaulese hills, now close by, and with big-tree forests all round us. We had four tents, Colville's being the largest ; but we used that also for feeding purposes. This was my first experience of a jungle expedition, and I was quite astonished at the army of followers that seemed necessary for our comfort and convenience. Of course, everything for eating and drinking purposes had to be brought with us, as nothing except water was procurable on the spot. We had too, forty-eight elephants, — a very large number for a private party, — and these necessitated ninety-six men to look after them, and conveyances for their food also. As it got dark, and the various fires flickering caused fantastic lights and shadows among the tall trees, the scene was picturesque indeed ; and it was too delight- ful to be lulled to sleep by the sound of the river running over its pebbly bottom — a sound never heard further down in the plains, where a stone is never seen. It was cheery too to be roused in the morning by the shrill crow of the jungle cock (our game fowl), which are very numerous here, and to feel that a long day's sport was before one. But we did not make a start before 10 a.m., for first Camp in the Forest. 189 of all the elephants had to be washed like babies. Each was taken down to the river, where, at the orders of its mahout, it lay down in the shallow water, and instead of being soaped, was holy-stoned all over, and then allowed to have a good wallow to wash itself clean. This done, the sun soon dried them, and ornamental fringes were painted with whitening on their foreheads and on their noses, or rather the places where their noses would have been if they had not had trunks instead. At length all was ready, five staunch elephants were chosen from the rest to carry our howdahs, eight smaller ones were detached to get forage for the rest, and with the remaining thirty-five we formed line, and commenced to crash through the forest. The trees were tall and the underwood not so very thick at our starting point, so the work was comparatively easy. Almost immediately, a peacock flew up in front of me. I had my ball-gun in my hand, and did not fire, but put it down and took up my shot-gun, when almost directly a beautiful spotted deer went bounding away to my right, and was well out of sight before I had time to pick up my rifle and bring it to bear. This was puzzling, but very exciting, as no one knew what game might be sighted at any moment, from a snipe to a tiger. Presently the jungle got more difficult ; and it was then wonderful to see the intelligent manner in which the elephants worked their way through it, and the consider- ation those which carried howdahs showed for their riders. They would push bodily down small trees, i.e., under thirty feet high, by putting a forefoot against them 190 Life in the Mofussil. and swaying backwards and forwards until the trunk yielded to the weighty pressure ; at the command of the mahout they would put their trunks up and break off any branch that would otherwise knock off the head or the hat of the occupant of the howdah ; or, if a mass of creepers clinging to the forest trees barred the way, would stop and patiently pull them down in detail until progress was possible. All this, of course, rendered it difficult to keep line, and yet considerable abuse fell to the lot of those whom Blake's eye caught lagging behind. He commanded our party, and was himself under the guidance of our "shi- karree," a wiry old Nepaulee, whom we all treated with great deference in the hope that civility would induce him to show us an extra tiger or two. The first day's sport resulted in a few deer, jungle fowl, and other small game ; and we sat down to our dinner and a rubber afterwards by no means dissatisfied. For on our return to camp we received information that a cow had been killed by a tiger not very far off, and we hoped to get sight of him on the morrow. Large quantities of cattle are driven into the forest during the dry weather for pasture ; but though they pay nothing for their food the losses by tigers must cost the herdsmen dear. The next morning the order was, to fire at nothing but tiger; and rather wearisome work I found it. If the scent were very hot, then it was easy enough to refrain ; but beating as we did for hour after hour through ap- parently interminable jungle, alternating between tall trees with tangled undergrowth where it was dark at A Tiger. 1 9 1 midday, and comparatively open places covered with tall grass from sixteen to twenty feet high, it seemed hope- less to expect to hit upon one particular animal, and the precaution of not firing appeared useless. And then, too, every other species of game seemed more plenti- ful than ever, as it always does on these occasions. At length, after some four hours' hard beating, we had just crashed through a dark bit of forest and were emerg- ing on an open grassy bit of small extent, when my ele- phant showed signs of uneasiness and gave that shrill scream called " trumpeting," which was taken up by the rest. My mahout pointed silently to the tall grass waving sinuously to my right front and just before Colville, as if some large animal were moving quietly along at the bottom. Colville was peering down as if hard staring would enable him to pierce through the sixteen feet of grass covering, and my chuprassie in the hind seat of the howdah began to cough nervously, and said, " Bagh hoga khudawind." (It will be a tiger, my lord.) It was very exciting. We all pressed on. Suspicion became certainty, as the sinuous wave became more rapid. And as the grass got thinner on the edge of the trees we were now approaching, on the other side of the open bit, a fine tiger became visible, trotting quietly along; and we all blazed at him, almost simultaneously. He gave no sign, but dis- appeared in the forest underwood. We all believed, at the moment, that we had hit him. The wish was doubtless father to the thought, and the word to " chase " was given. Our line got much scattered in our eagerness, and I be- came somewhat separated from the rest. :q2 Life in the Moftissil. We went crashing through the thick forest, when sud- denly I came upon a group of dead trees, and on every tree was a huge serpent, some coiled asleep on a withered branch, and others half hanging down, as if in search of prey. In our excitement we had got amongst them with- out perceiving it ; and as many of them were on branches just on a level with my howdah, the sensation was not pleasant ; in fact it was " creepy," and I felt inclined to compress as much of my person as possible inside my howdah, and I have no doubt my mahout and chuprassie felt the same. I have never seen anything like it since, and we three were the only members of our party who saw it. We stood for a moment until we caught the sounds of the others breaking through the jungle in the distance, and hastened to join them, leaving our serpents in statu quo. On coming up with the others, I tried to get them in- terested about this ; but they were much too excited about the tiger, and I could command no attention. The serpents were doubtless of the Python species, of which there are a good many in the Terai forests ; but it was very exceptional to see so many collected together and in such positions. It was horribly weird, and the impression it produced on me was lasting. We went on chasing our tiger for some two hours ; and then gave him up as a bad job. This is a veracious history, and I must admit, that, whether we hit him or not, we did not bag that tiger. Barring the surrounding scenery and the subjective excitement, the incident was tame enough, for the animal trotted as coolly away as if he had been a calf or a donkey, and quite accustomed to the proximity A Panic abotd a Pig. 193 of human beings. It was vexatious to miss him, as both Colville and Blake were good shots, and in this very after- noon I saw Macpherson, who was not a good shot, put a bullet through the neck of a peacock that was sitting on the dead branch of a tree at nearly 100 yards' distance, and shortly after kill at one shot a spotted deer that was bounding along at a great pace, and certainly eighty or ninety yards from him. These were both flukes, doubt- less ; but we wished that one of them had come off on the tiger. During the remaining eight days that we shot, we did not see another tiger, though we had plenty of " khabar " (news). Indeed one day a herdsman came running in to tell us that a tiger had just attacked one of his herd, and that he had struck him with a bamboo, and frightened him off. We saw the cow all bleeding from claw wounds, but never got a sight of the tiger. The intrepidity of the herds- man struck me very much ; but I suppose the tiger could not have been very hungry, or he would not have yielded his prey so easily. One amusing incident was our whole, line of forty elephants being put to flight by a small pig scarcely a foot long. We were beating across a wide expanse of open grass, and in very good line, when a shrill grunt was heard, and something seemed to charge our very centre. Blake's elephant turned tail, and a panic seized all the rest ; with some difficulty we got them round and went on again, and the same thing was repeated three times. At length Blake got a sight of the small creature and shot him ; and as he was hoisted on to a pad elephant, it seemed VOL. I. O 194 Life l!l th c Mofussil. too ridiculous that such a tiling, not more than a foot long, should three times have put to flight forty elephants and five sahibs with guns and innumerable followers : and it was a good proof of what terribly nervous things elephants can be. Colville moralized in a melancholy way over his death, and regretted bitterly that he had not been allowed to come to maturity in a ridable country. And now it was time to leave the happy hunting grounds and return to our workaday life. We had had very inferior sport, for the very good reason that we had come up much too early : the grass jungle and underwood was green and thick, and had not been thinned at all by the fires which always occur later on in the season. But we had had a most pleasant ten days, and finished our party in the very sincere hope that we should again join for a similar purpose. The journey back afforded no special excitement ; my obstreperous horses had been re- placed by others, and no upsets occurred. The morning after my return I received a note from Melville, stating that an addition to his family had necessi- tated his being. up all night, and asking me to go to office and take his seat for the day. I was too glad to be of such importance and assumed his place with a certain sense of dignity. Cases already commenced by him had of course to be postponed ; but I ordered the new ones to be brought up, and began to give orders for the issue of summonses, etc. The Sherishtadar here addressed me in an under-tone, and very definitely pointed out that my orders were illegal, as I had not been empowered by Government to receive new complaints, but only to try Illegal Orders. 195 such cases as were specially made over to me. In fact I was acting altogether without jurisdiction. " Oh," I said, " it's only for to-day." Not a very logical reply ; but he acquiesced with a shrug of the shoulders, which meant to say that he had divested himself of responsibility. No- body else objected, and no doubt many persons came in on illegal summonses and warrants ; but no harm was done, as no one else appeared to discover the technical flaw. CHAPTER VII. ASSISTANT MAGISTRATE /AT CHARGE Ob DURBIIUNGAH. TAKE OVER CHARGE FROM MY PREDECESSOR.— BUTWARRAS.— A DIFFICULT CASE. — SECOND EXAMINATION. — VOLUNTEER CAVALRY. — PUBLIC MEETING. — " IZZAT " ACCIDENT AT COURT.— INVESTED WITH FULL POWERS. — A NATIVE NOBLEMAN. However my importance became real some few days afterwards, for on the 13th of March I received the official announcement that " His Honour the Lieut.-Governor of Bengal had been pleased to appoint me to the charge of the subdivision of Durbhungah, and had also empowered me to hold the preliminary inquiry into cases triable by the Court of Session, and commit or hold to bail persons to take their trial before such Court, in accordance with Sec. XXXVIII. of the Criminal Procedure Code." This special empowering was rendered necessary by the fact that I was only a subordinate magistrate of the 1st class, and had not been invested with the full powers of a magistrate, as I had not passed my second examination. It seems odd that an official not yet considered fit to take cognizance of all magisterial cases arising within his local jurisdiction, should be appointed the sole criminal authority in charge of an area of over 2,000 square miles in extent ; but yet this was by no means unusual, as there was a scarcity of full-power officers to take charge of ap- Appointed to Durbhungah. 197 pointments of this sort, the more so as Government was extending the system, and a great number of new sub- divisional jurisdictions were being created in each dis- trict. At this time Tirhoot, with its 6,343 square miles, had only one, and all criminal cases had to be instituted here or at the head quarters, which caused great inconvenience to many suitors, in consequence of the long distances they had to come. But five or six years subsequently, this one was multiplied into six, Durbhungah itself being split up into three ;' and I now learn that it has been elevated into a separate district. The head-quarters of the subdivision were only at this moment in course of being established at Durbhungah, for heretofore they had been at a place called Buheyra, some twenty-seven miles further to the south-east ; some official apparently having looked at the map and thought that this spot seemed central. Geographically speaking, it may have been so ; but it was far away from all big towns or even large villages, and consequently nearly all the business transacted in the Court appertained to people who came from a long distance. When the estate of the Maharajah of Durbhungah came under the management of the Court of Wards, and the European manager came to reside partly at Durbhungah, he found it exceedingly inconvenient to have the Magis- trate's Court so far away ; and he was able also truly to represent that Durbhungah was the largest town in the Tirhoot District, and that it was only reasonable the Court should be located there. He was further able to offer a small building as a residence for the Magistrate, and igS Life in the Mofussil. another for his Court. Government had just accepted these proposals, and the officer at present in charge was engaged in moving himself and all his paraphernalia of office from Buheyra to Durbhungah. He was a young fellow, — Lewis by name, — in the un- covenantcd service, and had just received an appointment in the new police, which he was most anxious to take up, so he had written and implored me to relieve him as soon as possible. My next examination was to begin on the 6th of April, and Blake suggested that I need not join until after that was over ; but Lewis had to be examined himself, and as we must both be away some third person would have to be in charge during our absence ; and as I was keen to get to more important work, I determined to gratify him and myself, and go there without delay. My traps were very soon packed, and three ordinary native carts sufficed for their carriage. The furniture was not bulky, and consisted of a bed (which I could carry myself, if necessary), one toilette table (considered a sign of extra refinement), one writing table of antique design, purchased in Mozufferpore, one cane arm-chair and three ordinary chairs, glass, crockery, etc., for about six people, a few sheets and towels, and one book-case, value about eight shillings. My books and a howdah were the heaviest articles to be conveyed. The distance to Durbhungah was about thirty-five miles, there being four unbridged rivers to cross ; but they gave little trouble in the dry season, though in the rains they increased not only in size, but in number, for they became seven. All things considered, I gave the carts two days' Quarters at the Dak Bungalow. 199 start ; and on the 19th, or six days after I had received the orders, was on the road thither myself. The new Assistant Superintendent of Police, an Irish- man who had found his way out to India, via Australia, because he had nothing better to do, and who scarcely knew one word of Hindustani, accompanied me. He was a very good fellow, and very amusing, though it would be some time before he would be of much use. Shortly before reaching Durbhungah we picked up, at short intervals, two pieces of wood, which proved to be the tops of two of my chairs, and this augured badly for the state of my traps ; but on reaching my destination, about 1 1 a.m., we found nothing lost, though everything was very thoroughly im- pregnated with dust. I had ordered my servants to stop at the dak bungalow, which I found to be of a better class than those ordinarily provided by Government. This had originally been erected by the planters in this portion of the district, or almost entirely at their expense, and had been made over to Government on condition of its being kept in repair. It was consequently on a more liberal scale than usual, and was situated just outside the moat surrounding the Rajah's palace, and well away from the native bazaar, which was a great consideration. After breakfast, I went through the native town to the residence that had been proposed for me by the manager of the Durbhungah estate ; but it looked so dismal, was so far from the Cutchcrry, which was in the palace grounds, and so disagreeably situated, that I determined not to live there, but to get on as best I could in the dak bungalow, coo Life in the Mofussil. which I found, on inquiry, was nearly always empty, and the rent o( which would be only I r. per da)', equal to £$ a month. Of course I ran the risk of being compelled to turn out if there were a large influx of travellers ; but I thought that was not likely, and at any rate determined not to be anxious about it beforehand. Lewis came in to dinner in the evening. He had only just completed moving the office paraphernalia into Durbhungah, and said he would give over charge the next day. He seemed quite delighted at the prospect of getting away. The poor policeman was struck down with fever, and could not join us. He had caught it in Assam, and was subject to severe attacks of it. To the east of the dak bungalow there was a large expanse of low ground, one of the depressions I have spoken of as existing in Tirhoot, which was never entirely free from water, and in the rainy season was covered to the depth of several feet. Poor Doyle (the policeman) had remarked in the morning that it looked " feverish," and his foreboding in his own case proved unfortunately too true. The next morning he was a little better, but very weak, and so strongly of opinion that the place would kill him that he got into a palanquin and went straight back to Mozufferpore. He never returned. About noon I went over to the building allotted as a Cutcherry by the manager, and found it surrounded by a large crowd outside, and crammed to suffocation within. It consisted of one centre room, about eighteen feet square, and two small closets on each side, about ten and eight feet square respectively. On two sides were veran- Siibdivisional Court Hutise. 201 dahs, with slanting roofs of tiled thatch, supported by masonry pillars. The masonry roof was surrounded by an ornamental balustrade, also of masonry. The centre room was, of course, the Court room, and was furnished with a "takhtaposh" (wooden platform), about six inches high, on which was placed a dirty old folding table (commonly called a camp table), and on each side of it a wooden bench for the clerks. The little room, or closet, on the right was called the record room, and the English clerk sat there and prepared the returns and registers, while all round were "almirahs" (cupboards), full of records of cases, etc., in the vernacular, and one containing the papers con- nected with the English correspondence of the office. The room on the left was made the Treasury. At this time much business was not transacted in Sub- divisional Treasuries, though a great deal more was soon afterwards thrown upon them, and for the present I had only to take over charge of the stamps, and the money received on account of previous sale of stamps, deposits in rent suits, and criminal fines. All Court fees in India are collected by stamps, the plaints, replies, and other documents being written on paper bearing the stamp of the value required by law. These were sold at my office ; and one of the most wearisome parts of my duty as a subdivisional officer, was counting these when they arrived from head-quarters on my indent ; for supposing any deficiency should occur in the accounts, I was held personally responsible for the difference. On this occasion a new stock had just been received, and it occupied some two hours counting them — Lewis and myself and three 202 Life in the Mofussil. clerks and two policemen of the Treasury police guard all counting as hard as we could. The stamps are made up in parcels of 100 at the Government Stationery Office in Calcutta, and were so received by us from the head- quarters at Mozufferpore ; but it was necessary to count each stamp paper, in order to be safe, so we handed them out in similar bundles to each enumerator. The policemen counted slowly and badly, and were constantly arriving at results of ninety-eight, ninety-nine, and 101, instead of the exact ioo, which necessitated the recounting of the bundles, with the result always of finding them correct. On one occasion, however, I recollect finding thirty-two stamps, of the value of 4s. each, short ; and the Deputy Collector in charge of the Treasury at Mozufferpore had to make good that amount in money, as he had neglected to see them counted before sending them out to me, though there was no proof that the correct number had ever been received from the head office in Calcutta. These stamp papers were sold to licensed stamp vendors in the town, paid by a discount of four per cent, on their purchases, for whom I opened my stamp shop twice a month, and by them to suitors ; and in order to have some sort of check on their being used for fraudulent purposes, the vendors were re- quired by law to endorse on each paper sold the date of sale and the name of the purchaser. Their books also were liable to inspection on my demand. I also sold postage and receipt stamps. This over, we went into the record room, where I con- tented myself with looking into the cupboards and glanc- ing at the so-called library ; and then Lewis and I signed Establishment. 203 two reports to be sent to Blake, one for the Magisterial and one for the Collectorate side, to the effect that we had respectively received and given over charge of the sub- division of Durbhungah. Lewis then went off to prepare for his departure, and I entered upon the duties of office. My Court establishment, I found, consisted of the follow- ing members : — One English-knowing writer, or sherishtadar, at . ,£3 10 monthly. One clerk, or mohurrir, knowing Hindustani only, at 2 10 „ One nazir, Treasury officer, etc 20 „ One clerk, or mohurrir 16 „ Two ditto, ditto 10 „ . One potdar, or money-weigher, assistant to nazir .012 „ One duftry chuprassie (pen-mender, etc.) ....012 ,, One chuprassie o 10 „ The second of these was really the most important man in the office, and had been called sherishtadar until the recent change which allowed subdivisional officers English clerks, these latter being fully occupied with English correspon- dence and the preparation of the English registers and returns. The duties of the second clerk were to read over to the Magistrate the reports received daily from all sources in the vernacular, to record his orders, and to make them over to the police court inspector on the Criminal side, and to the nazir on the Collectorate side, for trans- mission, either by post or special messenger, also to bring forward all the cases in their due turn, and to prepare or supervise the keeping up of all the registers and returns not connected with the Treasury, many of which would be afterwards translated into English by the English clerk — 204 Life in the Mofussil. no light work, as on the Collectoratc side alone he had to keep up forty-nine registers ; and the returns monthly, quarterly, and yearly were even more numerous, to say nothing of those on the Magisterial side. The nazir had charge of the treasury, stamps, etc., and also the issue of summonses and processes in cases on the Collectorate side, and was expected to be generally useful. The other clerks were principally employed in writing, under the supervision of the second clerk. Lewis had worked well, and left me with a tolerably clear file, so that my first day's business was not very heavy ; and as no cases had been fixed for hearing before the following Monday, to avoid inconvenience from any delay in my arrival, this being a Friday, I had two days of comparative leisure. Lewis went off in a palanquin after dinner, and I felt rather deserted in the dak bungalow all by myself, the only English face within a radius of thirteen or fourteen miles. The next morning I took a ride through the town, and found it in a beastly state of filth, the thoroughfares covered with refuse, and obstructed by mat erections, ve- randahs, etc., at the will of individuals. No European official had been stationed here before, so that everything of this nature had been allowed to go on in pure native fashion. This afforded food for reflection ; but the question was, how to begin to do any good. On going to office, the first thing was to listen to the reports of a miscellaneous nature sent through the police, cattle-pound keepers, district postal officials, chowkedarree tax darogahs, etc., on the Magisterial side ; and on the Col- The Sherishtadar. 205 lectorate side the various reports from the nazir and the ameens sent out in cases of settlements and butwarrahs (partitions of estates). The second clerk, Jugdeo Sahai by name, read these out in a glib way ; and though I under- stood their purport, I found it uncommonly difficult to pass orders on each sur le champ, so he (who, of course, knew what a novice I was) suggested the orders to be passed on each. This at first I was inclined to resent, but as I had nothing else to propose, I ended by saying, "Accha" (very well); and he dictated the order to the third clerk, sitting next him, who wrote it on the back of the report, and then it was handed to me for signature. E.g., the pound-keeper of Rowsara sent in a report " that the pound was very much out of repair, and solicited permission to put it in order." I had not the slightest idea what to order ; and Jugdeo suggested that the pound- keeper should be ordered to report when the pound had been last repaired, and also to send an estimate of the probable cost of the proposed new repairs. This seemed common sense when suggested, and so did all the other suggestions ; but it was annoying to feel one's ignorance and want of savoir faire in the matter, and it took me some little time to obtain the experience necessary to get on without him. The reports from the chowkedarree tax-darogahs were chiefly with reference to the non-payment of the house-tax, assessed under Act XX. of 1856, the law relating to the appointment and payment of the rural town police. The tax was assessed by a Punchayet, or committee of rate- payers appointed by the Magistrate, and was an assessment, 2o6 Life in the Mofussil. according to the circumstances and the property to be protected, of the persons liable to the same, and not to exceed in the aggregate an average rate of threepence per month per house. In no case was a sum higher than the pay of a chowkeydar, or policeman of the lowest grade, Ss., per month, to be assessed on any one house. Any surplus remaining after payment of the chowkeydar's wages and the salaries of the tax darogahs was to be available for conservancy purposes. There was an appeal to me from the assessments made by the punchayet, and from me to Blake. When these reports were read, I mentioned to Jugdeo Sahai the filthy state of the town that I had observed in the morning, and asked him if there were any surplus funds that could be made available for its improvement. He said that nothing had ever been done, and that the surplus had been sent to the Treasury at Mozufferpore, where it would be placed to the credit of the town of Durbhungah. " But," he said, " it will be very little. However, now for the first time, an officer of the Covenanted Civil Service has been appointed to this subdivision, bringing with him greater dignity and (as he put it in his high-flown Hindu- stani, or rather Persian) ' splendour of the day ' (raunak-af- roz). If your highness will allow me to bring the attention of the rich men of the place to the matter, and then call a meeting, we might get up a subscription." This sounded very sensible, so I assented, and began to understand the potentiality of "moral influence " in such matters. When the batwarra reports were brought forward, it appeared there was one from the ameen employed in A Bahvarra. 207 making the partition of an estate named " Chakka." I must explain more fully the meaning of the term " bat- warra." In Bengal most estates, whether in Hindoo or Mohammedan families, are held in joint undivided tenancy, called in the vernacular " ijmali." There being no primo- geniture, the shares in estates are divided equally as regards the rental, but no one has any specific portion of land. The Government revenue also is assessed on the whole estate, and the shareholders settle among themselves the method and means of payment of the revenue, as, if not paid on the due date, the whole estate is put up to auction. The proprietors, however, retain the right to divide the estate, and to claim, — each shareholder or group of share- holders, — his or their specific portion of land. But Govern- ment also has a voice in the matter, for fear the division should be collusive ; for the law is, that when the estate is divided, the Government revenue is assessed on each share proportionately to its value. Now cases did occur in which by collusion all the bad land was allotted to one share- holder and valued at an altogether false rental. This share, when separated, would stand in the Government register of revenue-paying estates as a separate estate, would be responsible for its own revenue, would not pay it, and would be put up for sale ; the result being, that no one would bid for it, and Government would lose its revenue. The remaining shareholders would lose this amount of land ; but they would also be rid of the liability to pay to Government a sum altogether disproportionate to the amount of land lost. To avoid this, therefore, Government, under Regulation 208 Life in the Mofussil. X 1 X. of 1 8 14, had power to refuse to sanction any batwar- r.i, unless satisfied of its being fair and just ; and so the actual details of partition were carried out by officers called ameens, under the supervision of the Collector and Deputy Collectors. It continually happened that the shareholders could not agree about the specific portions of land to be allotted to each; and it was sometimes exceedingly difficult, if not impossible, to satisfy them all, and also the require- ments of Government, the chief of which was, that each of the allotments should be compact, with well-defined boundaries. The most important point, then, was to ascertain the actual annual value of each and every piece of land comprised in the estate, and to get all the share- holders to give their signatures to the document setting forth the value so ascertained. This once done, it only remained to apportion a proper amount of land to each ; and a recalcitrant shareholder could be compelled to accept an allotment so made. In this particular case the ameen had drawn up the document above mentioned, called in the vernacular the " rye bundee," and all the shareholders had signed it ex- cept one, the "objector," Jymal AH byname. I put the "objector " in italics, because he was the important person who made all cases easy or difficult, short or long ; and the first question one used to ask in any case of this nature, when brought up by the clerk, was, "Is there an 'objector'?" Jymal Ali was continually before me afterwards, and was one of those litigious persons who are a nuisance to Courts and to everybody connected with them by ties of relation- ship or in business matters. An Objector. 209 It appeared that no less than three times had the " rye bundee" been prepared, and three times had Jymal Ali refused his assent. On looking over the objections raised by him, I found there were 603 plots of land or fields in the estate, and that he objected to the rates of value fixed on about half of them. " The only way to settle the matter finally," said Jugdeo Sahai, "is to go to the spot yourself; and what you assert to be right cannot be contradicted. This case has been pending a long time, and if your high- ness should think fit to go tp the spot before the weather gets too hot, and camp there for two or three days, you could get the matter finished before you start for your ex- amination. Besides, there is not a great pressure of cases in Court just now." Sensible advice again, which I thought best to follow. The place was only about fourteen miles from Durbhungah, though, as there were no roads in the vicinity, it was awkward to get at ; but I issued notice to all concerned to be there on the following Tuesday, by daybreak. My first Sunday was lonely and wearisome. Nobody to talk to but native servants ; no church nearer than Mozuffer- pore, thirty-five miles off; no Cutcherry to occupy the time. However, I busied myself in supervising the start of my servants and tent for Chakka. Jugdeo Sahai went on an elephant with the ameen early the next day, and I started in the afternoon to ride half-way, and with an elephant to carry me the last half, where the ground was heavy and swampy. The next day I was up at 5 a.m., and after a cup of coffee mounted my elephant with my chuprassie behind me with VOL. I. P 210 Life in the Mofussil, a gun, in case of any game appearing, and Jugdeo and a clerk on another elephant (we had borrowed the two at Durbhungah) ; while Jymal Ali and the other shareholders or their legal representatives were on foot. At 5.45, we commenced operations ; for, the tent being pitched about the centre of the estate, our work lay all around us. It seemed that here the rent was paid in kind, and not in money ; so it was necessary for me to fix, not the money rental, but the actual produce in grain of each field. I felt a little diffident in the matter ; but I recollected Blake's remark, that a Civilian must appear to know everything, and so determined to pronounce my decisions boldly. I had also looked over the papers, and seen the amounts fixed by the ameen, and so had something to go by. Jymal Ali's objections were to the effect that in all the fields allotted to him the ameen had overrated the produce, and underrated it in those allotted to the other shareholders. All I had to do was to make my estimate just on the average. There was a great wrangle over Plot 1, which the ameen had put down as able to produce seventeen maunds per beegah (local standard of measurement), which Jymal said would only give ten. This was in his allotment. I listened without speaking to the various statements, and then calmly from my elevated seat said " sixteen maunds," and ordered (despite the protestations of Jymal) a move on to the next plot. As the day wore on, he and the others too began to get a little tired ; and every now and then I got him to admit that the rate laid down for one field was applicable to the next ten, and so saved a great deal of time and A Summary Assessment. 2 1 1 trouble. By 1 1 o'clock it was desperately hot, and a terrible west hot dry wind blowing, so we adjourned for breakfast and rest, I to my tent, they to the neighbour- ing small village. By this time we had accomplished 150 fields. My tent was miserably hot and uncomfortable, for there were no big trees in the neighbourhood under which to pitch it, and the full glare of the March sun came down upon it ; while I was obliged to keep the canvas doors shut to keep out the wind and dust. At 4 o'clock I made another start ; but Jymal Ali was much refreshed with his rest, and his objections were more violent and vocifer- ous than ever, so we only got through another 70 fields by sunset. The next morning and afternoon we got through another 220 fields ; and in the middle of a wrangle about the rates of one plot bordering on a small piece of water, a flight of teal got up, and I managed to bag a brace, which elicited ejaculations of admiration from the spec- tators, evinced by shouts of wah ! wah ! and formed a very pleasant addition to my larder, which had been supplied hitherto with tough and skinny fowls from the neighbour- ing Mohammedan village. The next day we came to the close, for which I was truly thankful ; and I think even Jymal Ali was glad. Among other things, I had had to estimate the number of mangoes likely to be produced by each and every tree in a grove on the estate. A record of the rates fixed for each plot had been kept by Jugdeo as it had been pro- nounced by me ; and now, in order to prevent any future objections, I called upon the shareholders to sign it on the 2 1 2 Life in the Mofussil. spot. This they all did willingly enough, except Jymal, who said he would come to Cutcherry and sign it. After much demur, he took the paper and squatted down in the field to write. He seemed to be a longish time, so I made my elephant kneel down, and went up to him, and found that he was adding after his signature, " bamoujib hukum hakim ke " (in accordance with the order of the hakim). I got in a great rage, and I don't recollect what I said ; but it had the effect of making him smudge it out with his finger, and so the matter was settled. Had the words been allowed to remain, it would have given him an opportunity of making objections afterwards, and perhaps rendering of no avail all the time and labour spent on the spot. As it was, I may add here, that this case was now brought to a conclusion without any further trouble ; and the other shareholders were spared any addition to the litigation and expense they had been subjected to for the last five years. It was amusing to think that the ipse dixit of so very inexperienced a person as myself should have settled this very complicated matter ; but it serves to show what weight is attached to personal investigation by an English official. On getting back to my tent, I found the owner of an indigo factory in the neighbourhood, the largest in this part, awaiting me. He was only five miles off, he said, and had he known previously that I was here before, he would have come over sooner to ask me to take up my quarters at his house. The country was ridable ; and would I come over now. It was quite delightful to see a white face again and to talk English ; so I accepted his Second Standard Examination. 213 invitation with pleasure, and we had a refreshing canter over to Kundowl. I could not have gone before, as it would have kept me too late from my work in the morn- ing. There was an artificial lake, called " a tank," here, and we had a long swim before dinner, which was most refreshing after the heat and dust of the day. A cheerful repast and a game of billiards passed the evening plea- santly enough, and it was with regret the next morning that I made an early start for Durbhungah, some thirteen miles distant. There was a road all the way, and my host supplied me with horses and dog-cart to get there. The dak bungalow seemed very lonely as I drove up, and the low-lying land in front of it looked dismal. But after breakfast I went to Cutcherry, and found that cases had somewhat accumulated during my three days' absence, and that there was work to occupy me fully until the evening. This state of things lasted till it became time to start for Patna for my examination. A European Deputy Magistrate, Davison by name, was sent out to take charge of the subdivision during my absence. He was old and greyheaded, and told me that as he should not be able to finish any cases before my return, he should only pass the necessary orders to keep things going. My examination on this occasion afforded no details worthy of record, except that I had to go through a trial in Bengali, in which the Local Committee passed me ; but it appeared doubtful whether the Central Committee would think the papers good enough. On my return to Mozuffcrporc, I was delayed four days to take part in a meeting of the Tirhoot Cavalry Volun- 2 14 Life in the Mofussil. teers. The movement had been set on foot in consequence of certain rumours about another mutiny, which never had any foundation at all ; but it was also recollected that the Tirhoot officials had been compelled to leave their posts in the Mutiny, in consequence of the absence of any sort of force or organization for the protection of the district ; and it was thought that, in case of future troubles, a body of volunteer cavalry would be of very real service. The manager of the Durbhungah estate, Furbelowe, was our colonel ; Colville and Melville and another planter, Wil- liams, were commissioned officers ; and myself and three or four others were corporals. About a hundred names were on the roll altogether ; but I don't think that on this or any other occasion, as long as I remained in Tirhoot , we mustered fifty. The whole thing, indeed, was rather a bore ; but we all went in for it from a sense of duty. Melville was really the mov- ing spirit ; and I believe that, next to him, I knew my drill better than anybody. Furbelowe was proud of the honour of being Colonel, but knew nothing, and could not ride at any pace beyond a walk. He was useful, however, in giving big entertainments at Secundrapore. Sometimes amusing things occurred, as on one occasion one of our corporals, in the course of a charge on the plain by the Cutcherries, was seen gradually to emerge from the ranks and finally disappear at headlong speed down the bazaar, drawn sword in hand. He did not return for more than half an hour. Another time, we carried on our charge farther than usual, and spread a panic among a crowd of natives look- Volunteer Cavalry. 215 ing on. Many of them were well-to-do people, enveloped in rich shawls, who had probably never gone out of a walk in their lives. As we neared them I saw them interchang- ing looks of doubt and apprehension ; and then came a helter-skelter rush, men tumbling over each other, and heaps of abandoned shoes lying on the ground. Some fled for protection into Percival's Court close by, where he was holding sessions, and begged for mercy and protection. The salient point in our uniform was a rather handsome helmet, with a long crimson plume, made up with a view of striking terror into an enemy ; and we were pleased to find we had such an awful appearance on this occasion. When I returned to Durbhungah I found that Davison had acted very thoroughly up to his word, for he had literally done nothing. The order on almost everything was, " Let this be brought up when Mr. Gordon returns." The result was, that I was obliged to work very hard for some time to bring up the arrears. To add to my re- sponsibilities, Government had just decided that all rent suits under Act X. of 1859 should be tried in the Col- lectors' Courts, and not in those of the moonsiffs. The moonsiffs were the local Civil Courts dotted about the dis- trict, and under the supervision of the judge on the Civil side, to whom their decisions were appealable. The next grade above them were the sudder ameers, stationed at head quarters, to whom the civil case work, including appeals from the moonsiffs, was distributed by the judge, who could keep on his own file such cases as he chose and had leisure for, his own time being chiefly occupied with criminal appeals and sessions. 216 Life in the Mofussil. Before I had taken over charge, all rent suits in the Durbhungah subdivision had been instituted in the Court of the Moonsiff of Durbhungah and disposed of by him. Then orders had come that the institutions should be made in my Court, and that I might hand half of them over to him for disposal ; and now the rule was that I was to keep the whole on my own file. This made a very great difference in the amount of work I had to get through ; for the Act had given rise to a great deal of liti- gation between landlord and tenant, and there were gene- rally some hundred institutions monthly. Some of these were very complicated cases and took up a lot of time ; but many were compromised, so that, very fortunately for me, I did not have to adjudicate on the whole. In my absence Jugdeo had been sowing the good seed, and awakening the minds of the richer residents to the fact that the hakim thought that the dirt of Durbhungah was disgraceful, and that if money were forthcoming, im- provements which would conduce very much to their com- fort could be made. I was so occupied that it was some time before I had leisure to summon a meeting. But at length an afternoon was fixed, and all the chairs and forms I could muster were placed in two parallel lines in the principal verandah of the dak bungalow. Jugdeo had written the most flowery letters to the rich commercial residents, inviting them to attend, and he and the nazir had had long consultations as to the order of their sitting ; for any mistake in the matter of precedence might have caused the whole thing to collapse at once. For myself a chair and table had been placed at one A Public Meeting. 2 1 7 end, and when they were all assembled, I entered the verandah. They all stood up to receive me, and did not sit until I sat down myself and asked them to do the same. On my right I observed two rich and rival mer- chants and bankers, named Bunwarree Lall and Nokee Lall. On the left was another man, who was on good terms with everybody, called Dabee Persad. Next to him was a Mohammedan — Wahid Ali Khan, an energetic, pushing person, anxious to become of importance, but not rich. The others were people of somewhat similar station, but of less wealth ; and after them came the agents of those who could not or did not care to attend themselves, and some of my own clerks. I had prepared a little speech in the most high-flown Hindustani I could muster; but when I stood up to address the assembly, they all stood up too, which rather embarrassed me, and I had some difficulty in making them understand that I wished them to remain sitting. This done, I commenced by saying, " I felt much gratification and support in seeing this assemblage of so many noble, so many wise, and so many rich men." They were not noble, for the nobility and gentry had not been asked to attend, as it would have involved a loss of " izzat " to do so in company with the commercial classes. Neither were they wise, nor all rich ; but I could see that this exordium was pleasing. I then went on to dilate on the very dirty state of the town, and said that it was not creditable, and could not be pleasing to the members of such an assemblage to live in such a place, where there were no roads fit for a comfort- 218 Life in the Mofussil. able vehicle, and where no man could keep his shoes on in wet weather ; and I also dwelt on the meaning of the name Durbhungah, which is supposed to be " Door of Bengal," and said that the townsmen of a place holding such a position ought to be zealous for its honour and good repute. Then came the question of funds. The amount of surplus chowkedaree tax standing to the credit of the town was very small ; but if properly supplemented by subscriptions, Government would no doubt aid us, and I therefore proposed to open a subscription list at once, and would ask each gentleman present to state what he was willing to give. Then out spake Bunwarree Lall, and said he would give ioo rupees, upon which Nokee Lall said he would give no rupees, and Bunwarree Lall bid 150 rupees ; and so it went on like an auction, each wishing to appear more liberal than the other, until they settled to give 350 rupees each. Dabee Persad gave 250 rupees, and the others each something, though smaller sums. On the whole, about 2,000 rupees, or ,£200, was promised, which result I con- sidered rather successful. I then wrote letters to the neighbouring nobility, inform- ing them of what had been done, and telling them that I had not invited them to be present at the meeting, as I could not expect them to sit with these people of the com- mercial caste, and I now asked them to subscribe to the good object. They were no doubt flattered at the dis- tinction thus drawn, and promised altogether another 1,500 rupees, or ^"150. After this, I sent a report to Government, through Blake, dwelling on the desire of the Iszat. 2 1 9 Durbhungah people to help themselves ; and in due time came a reply, saying that Government was much pleased, and would contribute to the improvement of the town a sum equal to that subscribed by the residents. There was also a sum of about 1,700 rupees {£170) to the credit of the town in the Mozufferpore Treasury, the result of the accumulation of many years' surplus, which nobody before had ever thought, of spending ; so that altogether we had between ^"700 and .£800 to spend. It sounds a very small sum to English ears, but was considerable in comparison with the tiny amounts we generally managed to get for local expenditure. A com- mittee was selected, of which I was president, and Dabee Persad, Wahid Ali Khan, and Bunwarree Lall, and one or two others, members. There was some little delay in collecting the amount promised, many of the subscribers being much more ready to promise than to pay. Among others, Nokee Lall made sundry excuses for not paying up ; and finally offered a less sum than he had promised. He was no doubt jealous of Bunwarree Lall being on the committee ; and he also repented being led away by his excitement to promise so much at the meet- ing. He was a man of a sullen and quarrelsome tempera- ment, and it would have been difficult to get him to act in harmony with the others. However, it would not do to let him set an example of not paying ; so I thought the best plan would be to shame him into it. Accordingly I let it be known that I intended to pay him a visit on a certain afternoon after office ; and on riding down on the day appointed, I found a considerable crowd of curious spec- 220 Life in the Mofussil. tators assembled in the main thoroughfare of the bazaar, on which his house fronted. I sent a chuprassie in to announce my presence, and I sat on horseback outside till he came and stood in his doorway. Then I said, "What is this that I hear, that you refuse to pay the subscription you have promised?" " Nourishcr of the poor," he replied, " I was foolish that day, and I am a poor man. I cannot afford to give that sum ; but I offer 150 rupees, if you will take it ;" and he stretched out a bag he had in his hand. "It is not good not to keep promises," I said. But he only repeated what he said before. " Very well," I replied, " each man has given according to his izzat, and you, I suppose, are doing the same as the rest. I do not wish that any man should give against his will. Bunwarree Lall, according to his izzat, has given willingly 350 rupees. Dabee Persad has given 250 rupees. You appear to con- sider that yours is worth less. But here are a number of your fellow-townsmen present, and they will know at what you rate your izzat, according to the sum you give." This made him hesitate ; he looked at the crowd, who were listening with great interest, and then at me ; then went into his house, and returned with a larger bag, which he said contained the amount he had promised. My chuprassie took it, and it was counted, and found to contain 350 rupees. I then thanked him, and com- plimented him on his liberality, and took my departure. This had a very good effect, and Jugdeo told me that it was the universal topic of conversation in the town ; and other lagging contributors hastened to pay up. Municipal Improvements. 221 The amount of work done with this money was really wonderful, and mostly due to the energy and careful supervision of Wahid Ali Khan. He knew prices of materials and labour exactly, and there were no con- tractors to make profits. The main thoroughfares were metalled, and provided with masonry drains ; they were also widened. Many salient corners of verandahs, and projecting portions of houses being cut down, the owners in most cases being persuaded to allow it to be done without demand for compensation, and any poor people affected receiving small sums. These were all really encroachments on the public thoroughfare, but had been so long in existence that a right to preserve them had been established. However, I employed most of my leisure in the bazaar, and, by judicious use of "moral influence," overcame the majority of the obstructions without expense. In some cases, too, I was compelled to be severe, and fine people for being a nuisance to their neighbours, under Section 290 of the Penal Code. The fines were, by law, credited to Government in the Judicial Department, so the town got no primary benefit from these. But the spirit of improve- ment had taken a start. One evening I rather lost my way at the southern end of the town, and came out upon two really beautiful artificial lakes, each a mile or more in circumference, which had been excavated many hundred years before by an old rajah of the neighbourhood. The earth thrown out from the excavations formed a sort of small range of hills, that prettily broke the monotony of the flat surface all round, and trees had grown upon the 222 Life in the Mofussil. slopes, among which many small monkeys disported them- selves, and enlivened the scene. It occurred to me that at very little expense a beautiful drive could be made round these ; and the next day I took my committee there, who, either from a real impression or a desire to please me, all said it was " a very elegant place" (lutf). Negotiations were entered into with the present owners of the land, who behaved in a most liberal way : gave, free of charge, all the land required for the roadway, permitted any trees to be cut down that offered any obstruction, and allowed me to take for timber, for the construction of the one or two bridges necessary, any of the trees that I could make useful. Wahid Ali Khan showed great energy here also, and in about two months this drive was completed, named after me, and is, I believe, still in good repair. In about six months I had the satisfaction of seeing Durbhungah quite a different place with reference to road- ways and cleanliness, though of course there was still only too much room for improvement ; but without money, more could not be done. The planters who came in used to compliment me on what had been effected ; and a rich native banker from Mozufferpore was loud in praise of the improvements. He was named Nundiput, and had received the title of Bahadur for services rendered during the Mutiny. He had a branch business at Durbhungah, and was now build- ing a house there for the use of his agent, a respectable man, who had been selected as one of the members of our committee. Want of a House an Inconvenience. 223 About this time a sort of sub-meeting of volunteers was held at Durbhungah, Furbelowe came over, and natu- rally the dak Bungalow was crowded. The sanctity of my bedroom was respected, which was very considerate on the part of the visitors, as they had a right to turn me out altogether if they chose. In a warm climate like India a room at night is not absolutely necessary for sleeping purposes, and some ten planters had beds in the verandah. One night there was heavy rain, and some foolish practical jokers had thrown the beds of two of their number out into the wet. They came into my room and preferred a complaint to me as Magistrate. This was very awkward, but I told them that any complaint must be brought be- fore me in Court the next day ; and in the morning I per- suaded all parties, — not a very difficult thing, — to settle the matter among themselves. But this and one or two other little occurrences made me feel how awkward it was for me to be subjected to this sort of thing, and to be obliged to depend on the consideration of bond fide travel- lers for not being turned out, so I determined to make Nundiput rent me his house above mentioned, when finished. Government, in the meantime, had issued orders for the building of a sub-divisional residence and Court at Durb- hungah, and I had to take action under Act VI. of 1857, (the Expropriation Act), in order to acquire land for the purpose. This gave me infinite trouble ; for though I managed to settle the matter without dispute, and satisfy the owners of the land, the drawing up of the report in the form required by the very elaborate rules of the Board of 224 Life in the Mofussil. Revenue was a most difficult task. The fact is, I had dealt with the matter from the paternal government and moral influence point of view, and found it very difficult to make my somewhat irregular proceedings fit into the cut-and- dried red tape form required. A new Collector had come to Tirhoot, Blake having been appointed to a post in Calcutta which he had long coveted, and at first he was inclined to quash all my proceedings, and this would have involved my taking back money already paid for houses, or rather huts, that had actually been removed. But on understanding my difficulties he did his best to pull me through, and at last the matter was settled ; though, in order to do this, I was compelled to have all the parties before me again and formally commence de novo. The villagers were much puzzled ; but being ignorant and as credulous as Frenchmen about les forma- litcs, they were not troublesome. Jugdeo was pleased at my embarrassment, as, the reports being all done in English, he had no connection with them, and it made it appear that I wasn't yet able to " walk well alone." The sub-divisional residence was to be constructed by the Public Works Department, which was always dilatory in its action, and so was not completed until I left Dur- bhungah. A circumstance occurred soon after this which made the construction of a Court a serious necessity. The rains were very heavy this year; and one day, when my Court was most crowded, and there had been a week's heavy downpour almost without cessation, there came a roar and a crash of falling masonry which made every one think that the whole building was coming down. I was An Accident at Court. 22 : sitting with my back to the window, on the side from which the noise appeared to come. The whole Court was cleared in a twinkling. I was out last, not from any feeling of dignity, but because it was physically impossible for me to get out sooner ; and I shall never forget the horrible disgusting feeling I had, that I was about to die like a rat in a hole. Clerks, suitors in civil cases, prosecutors, accused, and police were all huddled pellmell over each other ; and it took a few minutes to ascertain that none of us on this side of the building had received any injury. We then went round to the other side, and found that all the crash had been caused by the fall of a portion of the masonry balus- trade of the roof above mentioned. It had come down on the sloping thatched roof of the verandah, breaking this in, and also forcing outwards, two of the masonry pillars supporting it. Here we found three unfortunate persons injured. One was lying with a mass of masonry on his chest, another with his right leg knocked almost off, — it was hanging by a bit of skin only, — and a third inside the verandah shouting and groaning as if in great pain. We turned our attention first to him, for it looked as if the whole bamboo roof had fallen on the top of him. How- ever, it appeared that one of his feet had been caught between two projecting pieces of bamboo, forming a por- tion of that side of the roof which had fallen to the floor of the verandah, the other side still resting against the pillars which had not been broken. By cutting one of these prongs he was able to extricate his foot ; and then it was discovered he had not a scratch. VOL. I. Q 2 26 Life in the MofussiL In the meantime some others had taken the mass of broken masonry off the chest of the other man ; but he lay unable to move. Furbelowe, who lived in a bit of the palace close by, had now come on the scene, imagining from the noise that I must have been killed, and with him the Sub-assistant Surgeon, or native medical officer in charge of the charitable dispensary which he had established with the funds of the estate. He looked at the man with the injured chest, said his case was serious, and he could not recover ; and then at the man with the broken leg, and said it was merely a question of the loss of a leg. Having no instruments at hand, a carving-knife was sent for from Furbelowe's, and the leg taken off by simply cutting the small piece of skin by which it was hanging. But the unfortunate man fell back in a fainting state, never recovered consciousness, and died that evening. The shock had been too much for his system. It turned out, poor man, that he was a tailor, and had come to demand payment of a small but- long-standing debt from one of my clerks, and was waiting for an opportunity of seeing him in the verandah when this crash occurred. The other man was taken to the hospital attached to the dispensary ; but after two or three days his friends came and stole him away by night ; and this perhaps ensured his recovery, for on making inquiries afterwards, I heard that he had got quite well. It is a curious fact, that the natives have such a dislike to allowing their relatives to go to hospital, and seldom bring them there voluntarily until it is too late to do any- thing for them. They fear loss of caste, which is worse Native Dislike to our Hospitals. 227 than loss of life. Generally, too, I found them utterly un- grateful ; and innumerable instances occurred, where, after being tended with care and their strength restored, patients ran away before their cases were considered complete, and took with them the blankets and any other portable hospital property that had been given to them for use. I can safely say, however, that this, though somewhat disheartening, made none of us, either Magistrates or Doctors, relax our efforts to induce the people to come to our hospitals and learn to appreciate the benefits of civilized medical treat- ment. We are doubtless slowly succeeding, and should have made more rapid progress could we have afforded the services of more European medical officers ; but I fear the natives had frequently reason to doubt both the skill and tenderness of the Sub-assistant Surgeons, and native doctors. I seldom found instances of these men having any real sympathy with suffering, but generally a total absence of it. I considered it dangerous to use the Court building again until it had been examined by a competent person ; and this Furbelowe promised to have done as soon as possible. In the meantime, there being no other place available, and tents not being possible in such weather, I was obliged to hold my Court in the verandah of the dak bungalow. It is scarcely necessary to say that this was very uncomfortable and ill-adapted for the purpose ; but it is only one among many instances where the representa- tives of Government in India have been put to such un- dignified shifts. But nevertheless, the people seemed to think nothing of 228 Life in the Mofussil it ; and after all it was not so much inconvenience to them as the fact of my not being vested with the " full powers " of a Magistrate. E.g., under the existing law, which has since been altered, I had not power to adjudi- cate on a charge of "theft in a building;" but I could either commit the accused to the Court of Session or refer the case to the Magistrate of the district for orders. When the property stolen was of very small value, it was a great hardship on the prosecutor and his witnesses to be com- pelled to go seventy miles into Mozufferpore and back, and cross fourteen streams going and coming, at each of which they would have to pay toll. Such cases frequently oc- curred, and were all brought under the notice of Melville, to whom they were referred by Blake, or his successor Ellis, for disposal. At length I was obliged to refer one in which the value of the property was only 4^d. ; whereupon Melville was moved to compassion and wrote to Ellis, pointing out the hardships to which the Durbhungah people were subjected in consequence of my limited powers; and also that it was a mere question of routine, as I had passed all my legal examination, and was only prevented from being invested with full powers by my liability to a further examination in Bengali. Both Ellis and Percival, to whom my administration was referred for an opinion, reported me fit for full powers, and Government therefore invested me with them, but without allowing me to draw the extra £60 a year until I should pass my examination in Bengali. The receipt of this news caused some sensation in Invested ivith Fzdl Powers. 229 Durbhungah native society, and I had to undergo con- gratulatory visits from all the native gentlemen of my acquaintance. Among others, came Rajah Ganeshur Singh, brother of the late Rajah of Durbhungah. He had hoped to have the management of the estate after his brother's death; and, when Blake had taken steps to have it brought under the Court of Wards, had united with the Ranee, the widow, to use all efforts in their power to prevent it ; and had presented numerous petitions to the Government, accusing Blake of every enormity under the sun. When, however, he found that he could not succeed, and that the Government had finally decided to place the estates under the Court of Wards, he asked leave to call on Blake, and humbled himself, saying that he had been mad, and now hoped to be forgiven. Blake of course forgave him, and I have no doubt had not the slightest personal feeling against him. Judging from my own experiences afterwards in similar cases, I think I may assert that we civilians showed what may be called a high-minded contempt for the spite and venom showered upon us by those whose personal wishes or interests we were opposing, for their own or the public good. Ganeshur Singh was now a good boy, and quite willing to admit, — as indeed he could not help doing, — that the management of the Court of Wards had been both considerate and efficient. No caste prejudices had been violated, the two sons of the Rajah were being educated in an enlightened manner, but without any attempt to 230 Life in tlic Mqfussil. touch upon religious matters; great improvements had been made in the estate and the buildings ; all just debts had been paid ; all fraudulent claims had been contested, and generally successfully, in the local Courts ; finally, the income was now a clear £120,000 a year, whereas, had the old Rajah lived two years longer, the estate must have been brought to auction for non-pay- ment of arrears of Government revenue. Ganeshur Singh's own estate was by no means in so flourishing a condition, and he was now anxious to have it also managed by the Court of Wards ; but this of course could not be allowed, as the Government did not take upon itself to rescue from ruin all estates of which the proprietors were extravagant or foolish ; but merely, as the law on the subject, Reg. x. of 1793 recites, in cases of minors, females (with exceptions), idiots, lunatics, etc., and then only after very careful and com- plete inquiry. On this occasion Ganeshur had just returned from his first railway journey from Barh to Patna, the line having been recently opened ; and I was anxious to get at his impressions, as a native gentleman of high family, on the subject. In reply to my first question on the subject, he said, "It makes a great noise.'" This was discouraging, and I found that he apparently had not taken in any impression of the magnitude of the undertaking or of the great speed attained, and the wonderful difference in the facility of locomotion. His chief idea seemed to be, that it would be very difficult for persons of his high caste to travel at all by such means. A High-caste Nobleman. 231 " For instance/' he said, " the trains only go at stated times ; now I cannot commence a journey except at the minute decided upon by my astrologer as a favourable moment for starting. This makes it very difficult for me to travel at all. To-morrow I have to go to Mozuf- ferpore, and the astrologer has decided that I must start at 1 a.m. "Now my cousin Gadadhur went by railway the other day with his wife, and daughter of six years old, and a baby. He started at an unfavourable moment. His wife and two children and a maid-servant were put in a palan- quin, which was placed on a truck, which prevented their being seen ; and he went in an ordinary carriage. Somehow or other, a spark from the engine flew into the palanquin, and set fire to some of the linen in which the baby was wrapped ; and the servant, in her confusion, thinking it was only a bundle of clothes, threw it out. The moment it was done she found out the mistake, and they all shrieked. This was only a mile from the Patna station, and the train soon stopped. The station master was very kind, and did his best ; but the palanquin was on fire, and the wife in getting out was seen by many persons. It is not a fit subject even for conversation." "But what about the baby?" I asked. " They sent back along the line, and found it still alive ; but it died soon afterwards." It was evident that he thought much more of the wife being seen, than of the death of the child ; but this was the result of his training, and that of his an- cestors for generations, so I could not blame him for it. 232 Life in the Mofussil. On going out, he had to pass through my dining room, where the cloth was laid and some knives and forks on the table. " What arc those for ?" he asked. I explained their use, and hoped to make him under- stand this small item of Western civilization. " Ah," he remarked, " my caste does not allow me to eat with anything but my fingers." He was proud, rather than impatient, of his caste restraints. Poor man ! he started the next night in torrents of rain, at the favourable hour mentioned by his astrologer, no doubt believing, as members of other religions do under analogous circumstances, that it was " all for the best." After a few days, the Court building having been pro- nounced not dangerous, I returned to work there. I had hardly been back two days when a thunderstorm came on which seemed to be exactly over us, the lightning and thunder being simultaneous. There was a crowd of people about the Cutcherry ; and suddenly a murmur arose that a man had been struck. I went out to look, and found a man lying dead. He was a rustic, and had no clothing but a waistcloth (dhotee). So there was very little linen to burn ; but I examined the corpse for some time before I could find any trace of the stroke. At last I discovered a small piece of singed hair a little on one side of the head. This was evidently the point of entry of the electric fluid, but I could not see any trace of its exit. The police officer came soon after to hold the inquest, for this is the way these things are done in the Mofussil. In all cases of unnatural death, the police officer holds an A Death by Lightning. 233 inquiry and sends in a report to the Magistrate having jurisdiction, who then passes orders for further investigation or merely for the papers to be filed with the records, as may appear proper. This case illustrated the delay that was brought about through police red-tapeism. As there was no Assistant Superintendent of police at Durb- hungah, the formal report had to be sent in to the District Superintendent at Mozufferpore, and from him back again to the Court Inspector, or police officer attached to my Court. Thus, after the lapse of a week, I received the report, stating how the man had been killed, and that his highness Gordon Sahib, the " Ashistant " Magistrate of Durbhungah, had brought the splendour of the day to the spot, and seen the corpse with his own blessed eyes. CHAPTER VIII. A T DURBHUNGAIL Nl'N'DIPUT'S HOUSE. — AN ASSISTANT SUPERINTENDENT OF POLICE. — SYSTEM OF EXCISE. — FINAL EXAMINATION. — RIOT CASES. — INDIGO SOWING CASE. — INDIGO PLANTERS. — JUGDEO SUSPECT. — NE- PAULESE CASE.— A TIGER PARTY. — A NARROW ESCAPE. — NEW MUNICIPAL ACT. — BUNWARREE LALL AND PUBLIC WORKS DE- PARTMENT. — APPOINTED TO NUDDEA. — REGRET AT MY DEPAR- TURE. — AGRICULTURAL SHOW. — GOOD-BYE TO DURBHUNGAH. NOT long after this, Nundiput's house was finished ; and with some pressure he consented to let me occupy it. I had to fix my own rent (a matter of very little importance to him) and the amount of my own chowke- darree, or municipal tax, which I assessed at the maxi- mum. The rent I fixed at what I thought a fair amount, as he had declined to take anything. The house was tolerably clear of the Bazaar and with a fair garden at the back. It consisted of three narrow oblong rooms running north and south, two very small rooms, more like closets, at each corner, and two somewhat larger filling the space between the corners. At the back was a small square courtyard surrounded by small rooms intended for the zenana, or women's apartments. There was a short verandah on three sides, the roof was supported by masonry pillars ; the walls were thick enough for those of a fortress, and tended to keep the interior An Assistant Superintendent. 235 cool in the very hot weather. On the whole, it was not very suitable for a European's residence, but was better than anything else I could get in Durbhungah. The servants' houses and cookhouse were in separate small buildings outside. I had scarcely got settled when I received information of the appointment to Durbhungah of an Assistant Super- intendent of Police ; and on his arrival I sent to ask him to put up with me, looking forward with some pleasure on my own account to the company of a white face, and not wishing him to be subjected to the same inconveniences as I had undergone myself at the dak bungalow. His name was Cookson, and he had been, he told me, in some Highland regiment, but had sold out on his mar- riage ; and as his father had been in the Indian service had come out to get employment in this country. It was clear enough from his appearance that his mother had been in India too. His wife he had left in Calcutta ; but she was to follow with her baby when he got settled. On the whole, he was scarcely up to what I could have wished, and by no means gave me the idea of being likely to exercise a vigorous control over the police. But we got on amicably enough, and it was a great comfort to get work done more quickly than in the former circuitous manner. We scarcely met on week-days, except at break- fast time and at dinner, so that we had not much leisure for becoming quarrelsome ; at least I had not, for my work- was now very hard. The new Registration Act had now passed, which enacted that every party executing a deed must appear in 236 Life in the Mofussil. person and be properly identified before the Registrar, or must be represented by a mookhtyar furnished with a registered power of attorney, to give which the principal must have appeared in person once before the Registrar. Documents so registered were to be received in all the Courts without dispute as legally registered ; and this obviated a great amount of litigation about their authen- ticity, and was an immense improvement on the old system. The Commissioners and Collectors, having been con- sulted, had replied that the subdivisional officers could find time to perform the functions of Sub-registrars, but that they ought to receive some small addition to their pay for the extra work, say £5 a month. Government, as was understood at the time, acceded to this, and in the months of August and September I registered an average of more than 500 deeds per month. This took up a certain amount of time, and involved the keeping up of a number of new and rather elaborate registers, so that there was really a considerable addition to my work. I consoled myself by drawing my extra 50 rs. ; but at the end of the. two months Government issued a circular stating that they had never authorized this, that it was a misapprehension on the part of the Commissioners, and that all money so drawn must be refunded to the Treasury. This was thought rather sharp practice by us disap- pointed ones, for it appeared that the Government had first induced us by promise of extra remuneration to admit that we could do the extra work, and when it found the work was being done had withdrawn the pay. I never System of Excise. *j/ quite understood how the blame was to be distributed in the matter, but I did not much care, as my present income was quite sufficient for my present wants. This was the time too when attention was turned to the development of subdivisional administration, and it was resolved that subdivisional officers should be entrusted with the control of the excise within the limits of their jurisdictions — of course under the supervision of the Dis- trict Collector. The object of the system of excise, as stated by the Government, is " to raise as large an amount of revenue from the sale of intoxicating liquors and drugs as is com- patible with the greatest possible discouragement of their use. It always appeared to me that the great object of the Government was to get a maximum consumption at a maximum rate. In Tirhoot, hitherto, the excise had been under a Deputy-Collector of the uncovenanted ser- vice at head-quarters, for most Collectors looked upon this as appertaining to the class of " dirty work," and were glad to get rid of its disagreeable details. There had been a controversy going on as to the respec- tive merits of the " monthly tax " system, and the " fixed duty" system. Under the former, monthly licences were granted to distillers and retailers at fixed rates ; and they could manufacture and sell as much as they pleased. Under the latter, a duty was charged on the actual amount manufactured and sold, and rates also varied with the strength of the spirit. Under this system "public distil- leries " were established, as tending to give the authorities greater control. 238 Life in the Mofussil. These were erected at the Government expense, and licensed distillers set up stills therein. Within a certain fixed radius round these, no private stills could be set up, and all retail shops were compelled to get their supplies therefrom. They were under the charge of an officer called a Darogah, whose business it was to tax the amount passed out and to test its strength ; also to prevent illicit manufacture, and to look after the licensed shopkeepers who took their spirits from the distillery. These were used of course for the distillation of country spirit only. Im- ported spirits were treated in a different way. I don't know who drew up the scheme for the erection of these distilleries in the Durbhungah subdivision ; but he had apparently drawn a number of circles on the map, with- out any consideration of the circumstances of each locality, and said, " There shall be a distillery in the centre of each of the circles." The result was, that at this time came the order that eleven of these distilleries should be erected ; and as there was no necessity to ask for the assistance of the Public Works Department, their construction was speedily carried out. Theoretically, the buildings should have been of masonry, and surrounded by a masonry wall. But in Bengal, though the richest province in India, we are seldom allowed any money to do anything on a proper scale ; and so the erections were mud walls with tiled roofs, and surrounded by a palisade. The theory of Government was, that where no legally manufactured spirits were consumed, there must be illicit manufacture. This I firmly believe to be a mistake in the greater part of Bengal known to me. In this subdivision Drunkenness. 239 complaints used to reach me now of drunkenness where it was unknown before. Monthly returns from all the distil- leries had to be sent by way of my office to head-quarters in Mozufferpore, and as (I am happy to say) many of them did not pay their expenses, I was constantly harassed to report reasons for their not doing so. The simple reason was, that they were not required in their neighbourhood ; which answer, however, my superiors declined for some time to receive as conclusive. Finally, however, some three or four of them were abolished. It was my duty to visit these distilleries as often as opportunity occurred, and to examine the Darogah's ac- counts, test the quantity of the spirits in store, and also its strength with the hydrometer. All this was very dis- agreeable. The buildings were make-shift and dirty ; the smell was abominable, and the very nature of their duties seemed to have a demoralizing effect on the Darogah and his subordinates. I also had to keep an opium shop at my treasury, and sell the drug, — supplied to me from head-quarters, — to the licensed vendors, who generally united this trade with the sale of stamps. Dealing with this, however, was better than with country spirits. But the most harmful drug is " ganja," a preparation of hemp. The use, or rather abuse, of this did not come much under my notice until I was transferred to Eastern Bengal, so I will not remark upon it here. Apropos of the above, I may relate, that I was one day driving through the town in my buggy with Cookson when we came upon a drunken chowkcydar (policeman). In this 240 Life in the Mofussil. drunken state he did not perceive who I was, and, irri- tated at being ordered to get out of the way, he struck at me with his latti (bamboo stick). So I pulled up, got out, and tackled him. He was too drunk to be a formidable opponent ; but it was unseemly for me to be seen strug- gling with him, so I called out, " Will no one come to assist the hakim ? " Two or three men came rushing up, in the twinkling of an eye undid his turban, bound his arms with it, and at my orders led him away to the police station. Cookson all this time did nothing ; but I suppose he thought it best to keep hold of the reins. The news of this event spread rapidly through the town, and the next morning the crowd at my Court, to see me sit in judgment on the man who had assaulted me, was very great. I be- lieve the uninitiated thought in a vague kind of way that nothing short of the extreme penalty of the law would be considered sufficient punishment. Among others, his mother was there, and flung herself down before me in an agony of supplication. The wretched man was so frightened that he could scarcely speak. However, he admitted he had been drunk, and said he did not know what he was doing. I read him a lecture on the disgrace attaching to him as a guardian of the public peace and fined him eight annas, equal to one shilling, saying, that no doubt the Police Superintendent would dismiss him. He was so relieved at finding nothing worse was to hap- pen to him, that I am afraid the sentence had very little effect on him. I may add here, as a somewhat curious fact, that natives, when accused of being drunk, always admitted the fact. Fully passed at Last. 24.1 My work now was very hard, and I could only keep pace with it by working double tides, that is, by holding- Court twice a day. I would commence in the morning at 6.30 a.m., first do the registration work, hear the various police reports, and try the criminal cases, which would occupy me till 12. Then return to my house to bath and breakfast, be back in office at 1.30, and work away at batwarras, excise, and rent suits, till 6 or 6.30; so that by the end of the day I was pretty well done up, and had very little time for outdoor investigations. In the midst of all this, I was supposed to be preparing for my exam- ination in Bengali, not a word of which was spoken in the district. At length the time arrived, and Davidson once more came to act for me. A rule had been promulgated that the examination of two Commissioners' divisions should be taken together, at the head-quarters of each alternately; so on this occasion I had to go all the way to Bhaugul- pore, four days' hard travelling there and back, in order to undergo one day's examination. But travelling expenses were allowed by Government, and I felt more like a schoolboy going out for a holiday, than a hard-worked administrator going up for examination. It is not neces- sary to go into detail about this journey ; but it will suffice- to say that I did very badly, but was allowed to pass in consideration of the small opportunity I had had for study ; and I enjoyed the society of white faces there very much. My pay was now increased to 500 rupees a month, or £600 a year. It was late in November when I returned, and I VOL. I. R 2.\2 Life in the MofussiL found that a serious case had occurred in my absence, which Davidson had abstained from touching in anticipa- tion of my return, though it had required prompt action. Two indigo planters, Arkell and Ball, had visited a village which had been leased to them, with a view to collecting rents in arrears, and had been seriously assaulted ; and further, their tent, pitched in the neighbourhood, had been destroyed, their tent furniture broken or carried off, and the provisions they had brought with them thrown into a stream in the vicinity. This really was a quarrel, not about the cultivation of indigo, but about the payment of rent. The villagers were known stubborn characters, who had given their own native zemindar great trouble about their rent ; and he in despair had leased the village to Arkell, who had at first taken it with the view of getting indigo cultivated ; but had at length given up the idea. The term village includes, of course, the lands surround- ing the habitations of the villagers, and cultivated by them. On this occasion, after many fruitless missions of subordinate employes, he had gone in person, with his assistant, Ball, to endeavour to hold a friendly conference with the villagers ; it having been suggested by one or two of the more reasonable of them that he should do so. Expecting to stay two or three days, they had sent their tent to be pitched near ; and Ball had taken his gun with him in the hope of sport. From their evidence, and that of their grooms, it appeared they had ridden into the village, and gone to the cutcherry, — the term used for the office in every village where all the landlord's or lessee's A Rent Riot Case. 243 business with the villagers is carried on, — and that almost immediately they were surrounded, abused, and threat- ened ; and finally assaulted, though not hurt seriously. They both lost their hats, and got to their horses with difficulty. I adjourned the case, to get independent evi- dence if possible ; and as in the meantime it became necessary for me to go to a distant town, called Rowsara, to revise the assessments of the town-tax made by the town council, I appointed my camp there as the place for finally hearing the case, and directed the accused persons to have all the evidence for their defence ready. Arkell and Ball had some twenty-five miles to come to my tent. There was no means of getting anything to eat and drink, except with me, so I felt constrained to offer them breakfast ; but this made me very careful to finish the case, if possible, without going back to my tent at all. The complainants' evidence was clear ; that for the de- fence absurd. They admitted there was a quarrel about the rent ; but said that the two sahibs had come into the village cutcherry, and fired off the gun at the villagers, inside the building. No one had been hit, and no one could give any account of where the charge had struck, or whether it was shot or ball. Further, Arkell and Ball both swore that the gun had never been loaded at all ; and their statement was reliable ; for though European planters do condescend to allow false evidence to be given in cases in which they are interested, they do not give false evi- dence themselves. The case took a long time, and at the end I had to write my grounds of judgment, as well as pronounce sen- 244 Life in tJic Mofussil. tcncc, which also was a long business, as I had to take notice of all the evidence, which was very voluminous. I just had daylight enough, sitting under a big mango tree, to do it. There had clearly been a riot, and the two com- plainants had been maltreated in attempting what they had a legal right to do. The rioting made the matter serious, so I gave the ringleaders nine months each, and a fine of fifty rupees ; some others, lighter punishments. The ink on my paper was scarcely dry, when both parties filed petitions for copies. As I came tired into my tent, I met Arkell just about to start on his dark ride home. " I've often said that you civilians are overpaid," he said ; " but I'll never say it again. I would not go through the labour you have gone through to-day for .£5,000 a year. I could no more have written my judgment sitting there, all at once, as you did, than I could have jumped over the moon." "And now," I said, "tell me about your beard," which I had observed very much thinner and shorter than I had known it. " Oh," he replied, " they pulled a lot of that out in the row ; but my mookhtyar advised me to say nothing about it, as it would so lower my status with the natives to make it public in Court." This showed that native public opinion was worth some- thing in his eyes. I had to make a separate case of the plunder of the tent, for that was testified to by other witnesses. Davidson's delay in taking action, had given them facilities for dis- posing of the stolen property. At length the police found Risks of a Committal. 245 a knife and fork in the house of a Mohammedan woman of bad fame, and, following up the clue, found in two Moham- medan houses, some seven or eight miles distant from the spot, several pieces of canvas, tent-ropes, and other Euro- pean articles ; and I was able to indict the householders as " receivers." As this was a case of plunder, with violence, by more than five persons, the case came under the tech- nical definition of dacoity, and I was obliged to commit it for trial to the Sessions Court, over which Percival presided. Now, in the first case, he had upheld my decision, when an appeal was preferred to him ; but in this case, he acquitted the accused, on what appeared to me very unsatisfactory grounds. Section 125 of the Criminal Pro- cedure Code enacts that the search of any house by the police shall be conducted in the presence of two or more respectable inhabitants of the place in which the house searched is situate. The police officer in this case, know- ing all the inhabitants of this village to be hostile to the discovery of the truth, had conducted the search in the presence of two persons from a neighbouring village. This might have been of importance if the accused had denied that the articles had been found in their houses, or asserted that the police had put them there (as is often done) ; but they admitted that they had been found there, and said they had found some, and purchased some. However, the Judge acquitted them on the ground of the above technical informality. This was matter for regret, as it tended to the triumph of the wrong side ; but we Magistrates generally found 246 Life in the Mofussil. that when we decided ourselves, our orders were very seldom upset on appeal ; but that in cases committed for trial to the Sessions Courts, it was just a toss up which way they would go. In India there are many causes to bring this about. It is so easy to get at witnesses between the magisterial inquiry and the Sessions trial — at poor men by bribes, at any of the better class by saying, " Why should you condemn a poor man to prison or death by your evidence ? You can so easily make a little discrepancy before the Judge, and so on." This argument has an extraordinary effect on witnesses who don't happen to have any personal spite against the accused. In some cases, I have known bribed witnesses deliberately deny before the Sessions Judge facts to which they had deposed before the Magistrate, and submit to be tried and punished for perjury in consequence ; and I have ascertained after- wards that the bribers persuaded them to do so, by assuring them that the Judge would not give them more than three years for perjury, and that in the meantime their families would be well cared for. In the case just mentioned, however, nothing of this sort occurred. My revision of the assessment at Rowsara took me some three days' morning and evening work, the middle of the day being occupied by Court work, done under the tree above mentioned. While there, a man came in with a complaint that an European planter, whose factory was near his village, had forcibly dispossessed him of a lot of his land, and sown it with indigo. Under the existing law, Sec. 318 of the Criminal Procedure Code, we Magis- trates had powers, in case of such disputes, to confirm the A Case of Dispossession. 247 party actually in possession, without reference to right or title. We generally tried, however, to keep in possession the party whose claim appeared the best, and so throw the onus of proof in the Civil Court on the wrongful claimant. This is analogous to the spirit of our procedure on the Collectorate side, in the " dakhil kharij " cases mentioned above ; but, as Magistrates, our chief object was to prevent all chance of a riot. The scene of this complaint was about fifteen miles from my tent, so I determined to go there by night in a palki, inspect the ground in the morning, and get back to my tent by mid-day, in time for some Court work. It was rather comfortless ; but I took some bread and a teapot with me, and managed to get some hot water from the village (with great difficulty), made my tea, and com- menced my inspection about 6.30. The planter was there, and pressed me to accept the hospitality of his bungalow close by ; but under the circumstances I did not like to. I told the complainant, Juggoo Tewarree, to point out the plots of which he alleged himself to have been dis- possessed, and he proceeded to point out every plot sown with indigo, but in most of these, when they came to be measured, his statements were found to be wrong ; in fact, he bungled his case altogether, and I did not see that I had any legal ground for ousting the planter from the land he had already sown with indigo. However, I reserved my decision, declining again to go to the planter's house, as I thought I should have to decide in his favour, though I felt certain that the villagers would not willingly have let him have all the land. 24S Life in the Mofussil. On reaching my tent I found news that Ellis was coming out from Mozuffcrpore the next day but one, to inspect me, that is, my office, work, etc., etc., so that I had to get back to Durbhungah as quickly as possible. When Ellis came I mentioned this case to him, and said I was afraid to pass orders which might oppress an injured party. He was a brusque-mannered man, with lots of energy, and a good deal of impatience of any technicalities which seemed to hamper justice. "I'll take up the case myself," he said, "and decide it while I'm here." He had power by law to transfer any case from my file to his own. He went vigorously into the matter, and managed to come to a decision ousting the planter from a great deal of the land he had occupied. I read his order, and I pointed out that the planter was in possession ; that by the law that was all he had to look to, and though it might be just, I did not understand his decision to be legal. "Never mind," he said, "justice first, and dovetail in the law afterwards/' The planter appealed to the High Court in Calcutta, and Ellis's order was upset. The result was, that the un- fortunate Juggoo had to go into the Civil Court to get back his own, after having spent a lot of money in defend- ing the appeal before the High Court. About a year after this, as I was about to leave Tirhoot for good, I asked this planter what the real truth was. " Simply," he said, " that Juggoo had leased me a certain amount of land, and I had taken a great deal more. Juggoo wanted to get not only this back, but also some of that he had leased to me, and Indigo in TirJwot. 249 so made those confused statements which puzzled you. When we went into the Civil Court we made a compro- mise which gave me a good deal the best of it." A trans- action not creditable to either party, certainly not so to the planter. The cultivation of indigo is, beyond a doubt, unwelcome to the native cultivator. In Lower Bengal the power of the indigo planters had been broken up by the very strong measures of the Lieutenant-Governor. In Tirhoot there had been no general disturbance, but an increase of rate had been conceded to the cultivators. The cultivation of indigo in this part is of two kinds, that called the "zeraat," or land cultivated by the planter with hired labour, and that called " ryotwarree," cultivated by the small peasant farmer. If the planter could get land enough for his purpose to cultivate on the zeraat system, there would be no objection to the thing ; but, in the first place, it would be exceedingly difficult to do this, and in the next place he does not wish it, as this system is so much more expensive than the ryotwarree. It is very seldom that a planter can get the ryots to cultivate indigo for him, unless he is lessee of the village from the zemindar, or landholder, or unless he happens to be himself the proprietor ; for all the land is held by these small peasant farmers, either by prescriptive right or by lease. They object to cultivate indigo, as it is a very troublesome and not a profitable crop. The land takes a great deal of preparation, and there is a great deal of weeding to be done. Further, he much prefers a food crop ; and indigo comes into antagonism with all such in 250 Life in the Mofussil. Behar, except rice. But the ryots are proverbially im- provident, and find it difficult to resist the temptation of a money advance from the planter, on consideration of their contracting to grow a certain amount of indigo. At the time I was there the rate was, I believe, 7 rs. a Tirhoot beegah ; equal to about two-thirds of an English acre ; but out of this the ryot had to pay the price of the indigo seed supplied by the planter. The advance once accepted, the ryot becomes liable to much bullying until the crop is actually cut. The planter keeps servants who go round to see that the land is pro- perly prepared, and the crop kept weeded. These men, knowing they have European influence at their back, are often very oppressive, and by threatening to complain to the planter or his head man, induce the ryots to bribe them into friendship. Otherwise they would continually be summoned in to the planter's cutcherry, and if they refused to go, taken there by force, men called peons being kept expressly for this purpose. But about indigo oppres- sion I will speak further in my next chapter. The profits from indigo in a good year in Behar were very great. I have known a case where an outlay of ,£30,000 has brought in at the end of the year a return of over £ 1 00,000. On the other hand, in a bad year, from drought, rain at the wrong time, or the ravages of the beetle, the result might be a considerable loss. The planters, too, in times of distress were kind to the ryots ; they were of great assistance in the construction of roads, and, as a general rule, if the ryots behaved well about the indigo, did not bother them much about their rent, Planters. 2 5 r which was really a secondary consideration. Some, how- ever, more greedy for gain, would sublet the villages to their own native headmen, and then the unfortunate ryots had not only to grow indigo, but pay the uttermost farthing extracted by the grasping native. Planters, too, made the district much more pleasant for the European official when moving about in camp ; but the former was always obliged to be on his guard against creating wrong impressions in the minds of the natives ; and it was only in very few cases that friendship could be free and unrestrained. One young planter said to me one day, " What a lot of money we should make, if you fellows were not here !" And no doubt the planters' impression is that we act as very troublesome buffers. On the other hand, the natives continually accuse us of partiality for our European brethren ; so that, on the whole, we may, perhaps, lay the flattering unction to our souls that we administer tolerably even justice. But there was an instance near Durbhungah of indigo cultivation being carried on with good feeling on both sides, and respect on the part of the native for the planter. The latter was a Scotchman, of patriarchal aspect and habits. He was thought wanting in enterprise by his neighbours ; but though his profits were not colossal in good years, his losses were small in bad, and everything that the natives did for him was done willingly. He was an Honorary Magistrate, a post equivalent to our J. P., and though his decisions were not based on the strict rules of evidence, they were, what is much better, substantially just. They were seldom appealed against. Such a thing 252 Life in the Mofussil. as a complaint against him or any of his servants never occurred ; an official could accept his hospitality with a perfectly secure mind, and I spent some happy days with him. Ellis pronounced himself satisfied with his inspection of my office, the manner in which the work appeared to be done and routine details attended to ; but, to my sorrow, he didn't like Jugdeo. " He wears too swell a puggree (turban)," he said, " and makes himself of too much importance. You ought to snub him publicly." This annoyed me all the more that I felt there was some truth in it. The man was really a good and clever ministerial servant, and I did not like to snub him. All this time I had only had to find fault with him on one oc- casion, and that was so truly characteristic of the native way of doing things, that it is worth mentioning. Among the many criminal returns we had to forward monthly to the District Magistrate, was a statement show- ing the number of witnesses summoned, the number whose evidence was recorded, and the number heard on the first, second, third, fourth, or fifth day of attendance. This was intended, of course, as a check on unnecessary delay in the hearing of witnesses. On looking over my returns, after I had been some three months at Durbhungah, I found that all the witnesses examined had been entered as heard on the first day of their attendance. I knew that this could not be the fact, as it was impossible for me to com- plete on each day all the cases coming in on that day. So I asked Jugdeo, who prepared the return, what it meant. A Roobekarree. 253 " I never enter the witnesses as present/' he said, " until your highness is ready to take up the case. If I enter them as having been three or four days in attendance, then it is necessary to send an explanation to the Magistrate, and the return does not look so thck " (a word expressing all excellence). Of course I put a stop to this ; but it is a type of the way in which a native, to avoid a little present labour, will roll up any amount of future trouble for himself. Another thing now came to my mind that made me think he must be looked after. A petition had been pre- sented to me by the proprietors of a certain estate near Durbhungah, that the neighbouring proprietor, who was my landlord, Nundiput, was constructing a heavy embank- ment on the border of the two estates, which would stop the water way in the rainy season, and subject the whole neighbourhood to the risk of an inundation. Nundiput rejoined that he was making a road to connect a certain place called Bhowareh with Durbhungah, and that it would be a great public convenience. I went out to the spot myself, and saw that the road would be a good thing, but the embankment would probably cause an inundation. So I told Nundiput he must make a bridge at a particular spot. He agreed to do this, and I therefore passed orders that it was not necessary to interfere with the embank- ment ; and this being what was called a " miscellaneous " case, I told Jugdeo to embody my order in a " roobekarree " or "proceeding," drawn up in the vernacular. This was done, and he produced it before me for signature one day when I was very busy, and I signed it, trusting to him. 254 £*fi in th c Mofussil. Some two months afterwards another petition was pre- sented, to the effect that the opening for the bridge had been made in the wrong place. I went again to the spot, and found this to be fact, so ordered an opening to be made in the embankment at the proper place at once. Nundiput now appealed to the Judge, who called upon me for a report on the matter ; and I then, in looking through the papers, read through the above-mentioned roobe- karree, which I found contained a most fulsome eulogium on Nundiput, and made out that he had shown the greatest public spirit in wishing to construct this road at his own expense, and that it ought by no means to be interfered with. I now, of course, had to neutralize the effect of this roobekarree, and finally the Judge upheld my orders in the matter. The embankment was broken through, the bridge was never made, nor the road completed. Nundiput told Furbelowe that he thought I had treated him very badly, that he had let me have his house, had subscribed to my town improvement fund, and done all he could to please me ; and yet that I had decided against him — typical of the native line of thought. Jugdeo, how- ever, I felt certain knew as well as possible that the con- struction of the road was all humbug ; that the embank- ment was only intended to protect Nundiput from inunda- tion at the expense of his neighbours ; and must have had some consideration from him for writing the roobekarree. I did not believe in the road myself; but if it were to do no harm, there was no necessity for interference on my part. As the cold weather progressed, and the cutting of the rice crop began, various riot cases occurred. In cases of A Crop Fight. 255 murder or accidental death, if the corpses were not too much decomposed for transmission, they were sent in for post-mortem examination by the Sub-assistant Surgeon ; and in murder cases I used to view the body myself. One morning I was told that the body of a man killed in a riot case was awaiting my inspection. I went out and found the corpse of a splendid-looking fellow cleft from the shoulder down to the middle. It was an awful wound. Little Cookson went out to the spot to hold a local in- quiry, and I remained behind, thinking that I ought not to go out, but wait to hold the preliminary magisterial inquiry. In due course a report came in, to the effect that the deceased, Sriram Thakoor, with some of his relatives and labourers, had gone to cut his rice crop, when the Rajah of Begumpoor had come on an elephant, with a number of followers, armed with swords, spears, and clubs, and some with reaping hooks, and had ordered them to cut what was left of the crop and carry off that portion already cut ; that the Thakoors had remonstrated, and shouted out, " duhai " (justice). The Rajah had said, " Maro," and then one of his followers, Sheik Lallun, had cut down Sriram with a sword, and that others had wounded many of the Thakoors with spears and clubs. Some four wounded men were sent in as complainants, who gave evidence to this effect, and ten or twelve very respectable-looking witnesses, who said that they were working in their fields in the neighbour- hood, and had seen all the above details, and further, that all the crop was looted and carried off. I issued warrants for the arrest of the Rajah and awaited 256 Life in the MofussiL further details. At the end of a week I was thunderstruck at receiving through the Magistrate a most tremendous wigging from the Commissioner, Coldham. He scolded everybody all round ; said the police had been slow, and their report was most unsatisfactory ; that I had been most apathetic in not proceeding at once to the spot myself ; that the Magistrate was to blame for not telling me to go ; that I was to go there now at once, and explain why I had not gone before. I should explain here, that in all heinous cases an English report, prepared by the District Superintendent, was sent to the Magistrate of the district, who forwarded it to the Commissioner, with his remarks and orders to the police ; so that the Commissioner was kept an courant of all such matters. I was indignant at the wigging, and said so to Jugdeo, intimating that I did not think any good would be done by my going out, especially as I had so much heavy work in office. He replied with his usual good sense, that " the first thing to be done was to obey orders." So I sent my tent off to the spot, some twenty miles off, and started myself the next day, having first given as my reason for not going before, that I thought that the presence of the Assistant Superintendent of Police on the spot rendered mine not only unnecessary but unadvisable. I had not gone a mile before I met the accused Rajah coming in in a palanquin. He rolled out when he saw my buggy coming, explaining that he had rheumatism and could scarcely stand. I had ordered him to be admitted to bail of 10,000 rs., and told him so. This appeared a r A Rajah in Trouble. 257 great relief to him, and he salaamed to the ground. He vociferated that he had nothing to do with the riot ; he had been ill in bed ; that the land was his, but he had leased it to another, and in the lease was a special clause to the effect that the responsibility of all criminal affairs rested with the lessee ; and he held out a document, a copy of the lease. I took it from him, though it was some- what an irregular mode of filing a proof, and went on my way, saying I would send for him if I wanted him. On reaching the spot, I examined the locality, and found the field in dispute was situated within a dried-up tank or reservoir about two miles in length, excavated by some old Hindoo king, and was approached by a sort of lane cut through the embanking walls. Here I got hold of one or two men actually working in the fields adjoining, and took their evidence as to what they had seen. To my sur- prise, they told a totally different story. They said that Sriram Thakoor and his party had come in the early morning with a crowd of followers and actually reaped the crop ; that they were engaged in carrying it off, when in the lane they met the opposite party under the Rajah's lessee, who opposed their progress. Some abuse took place, and then Sriram Thakoor, who was a great athlete and clubman, stepped forward and hit Sheikh Lallun, who appeared to be the hired champion of the other side, a tremendous blow with his " latti ; " that Sheikh Lallun then cut him down himself with his sword, some (c\v others joined in the fray, and some were wounded on both sides. The Rajah was not there at all. This made me suspect that the evidence of the witnesses VOL. I. s 258 Life in the Mofussil. first taken was all false. I had ordered them to be on the spot, and the next da)' examined them as to the fields in which they had been working. Each man pointed out his field, but when taken to the tent could not state its dimen- sions ; and on inquiry I found these men had no cultivation in this village at all, that their names were not on the rent roll, and in fact that their statement was altogether false. By degrees I elicited the real facts. The Rajah, who was the landed proprietor, had had a long-standing dispute with the Thakoors about rent. Finally he had got tired of it, and leased the land to a stubborn Mohammedan, Ameer Ali, on condition that he would bring these recalcitrant Thakoors to reason. He had got a decree against them in the Civil Court on some ground or other, and in execution thereof had got their crops attached. Two peons (sheriff's officers) of the Civil Court had been sent down to go through the legal form of attaching the crops ; but the Thakoors had bribed them to put off execution of process for one day. In the meantime they had got a large party together and cut the crop ; but were met as described by the witnesses above, the peons being with the lessee, Ameer Ali's party, and on their way to attach the crop. Ameer Ali was prepared for resistance ; but the other party were the aggressors, and the whole case was re- versed. I afterwards asked Cookson how it was that he had been so easily taken in by the witnesses he had sent in, and he told me that on arriving on the spot he had found them actually in the fields in the vicinity, and that they had pre- tended to run away, as if unwillinr to be asked to give evi- y ugdeo Suspect. 259 dence in the matter. He had ordered them to be caught ; and as they deposed before him in a very reluctant man- ner, he thought they were all the more likely to be speak- ing the truth. Of course it was a pity that he had not made them point out which were their fields. In due course I committed all this batch of witnesses to the Sessions Court for trial for perjury; but Percival acquit- ted them all on what seemed to me to be very insufficienc grounds. I also committed some of the rioters on the Thakoor's side ; but they too were acquitted, the Judge remarking that it was a very confused case. Sheikh Lallun evaded justice for a long time, but he was at length caught, and I committed him for trial for the homicide of Sriram Tha- koor ; but the Judge admitted his plea that he was exer- cising the right of self-defence, and acquitted him also. I thought that, as he had gone to the spot armed for a battle, he ought not to have been let off. There is no doubt that he suffered severely from the effects of Sriram's blow. The Rajah of course I set at liberty; but as he was legally bound as land-owner to have used every effort to prevent the riot, and also to have informed me of it, — and as it was proved that he was cognizant of it, — I fined him 500 rs., or £50, under Sec. 154 of the Penal Code ; which sum he promptly paid, without even appealing against the order. The sheriff's officers were dismissed, on my report of their conduct. Just as the case was concluded, I received an anonymous letter, saying that J ugdeo had taken a bribe of 5,000 rs. from the Rajah for his good services in the matter, and 260 Life in the Mofussil. that the current report was, that I also had received a simi- lar amount, and that Jugdeo was telling everybody that he could do what he liked with me. The report, possibly, was based on the fact that the Rajah had paid his bail of 10,000 rs. in cash into my treasury ; and it may have been stated that it was so divided. I don't think the natives really believed that I personally had taken any money, but very likely they thought Jugdeo had ; and perhaps he had. However, on the top of this, came a note from Coldham enclosing a similar petition, which had been sent to the Lieutenant-Governor, and which had been forwarded by him to Coldham " for disposal." This meant, to take any or no steps, as he might think fit. His note to me was, " Tear this up, after perusal/' However, it all annoyed me very much ; and the next morning, when I went to Court and Jugdeo began to read the reports, I told him to hold his tongue, and to hand them over to the Nazir to read. I never saw a man look so crushed, but it was the only way I could see of snub- bing him in public, as Ellis had advised ; and I had no proof against him of bad conduct. Wahid Ali Khan was a great friend of his, and came to me privately, on hearing of his disgrace, to intercede for him ; whereupon I snubbed him too, and told him he had very much lowered himself in my estimation by interfering in matters which did not concern him. He went away sor- rowing, but I forgave him in a week or so. Poor Jugdeo asked for a fortnight's leave, and I gave it him very willingly. In his absence a very untoward thing occurred. Some of the Nepaulese chieftains who lived on A Nepaulese Raid. 261 the border had taken leases of certain villages in the Durbhungah estate ; and one of them, Roopun Singh by name, had fallen into arrears with his rent. A decree for ejectment had been obtained against him ; and he had come across the border with a small band of followers and some elephants, and carried off the two village accountants (patwarrees) with all their papers. I had heard nothing of this ; but presently an order came from the Magistrate, asking for further information, and I replied that I had received no report from the police. Whereupon the police were called upon for an explanation as to why no informa- tion had been sent to me, though the Magistrate of the district had received it. It turned out on inquiry, that information had been sent to me, but that it was contained in three lines at the end of a long report devoted to other matters, such as pounds and roads. Wuzeer Ali, the Nazir, had read it out in the usual sing-song way ; but probably had not thought it worth while to read the last three lines ; and my order, recorded on the back of the report, only referred to the first portion. Just at this crisis, Jugdeo returned. It was of course a sort of satisfaction to him that this had happened in his absence. I had to eat hum- ble pie ; but the police caught it from the Commissioner for putting such an important matter in the fag-end of a report. Jugdeo was equal to the occasion. He knew all about the treaty with Nepaul, framed to meet such cases ; and I pre- pared a case with much care for submission to the Gover- nor General through the Foreign Office. Negotiations were entered into with promptitude; and Roopun Singh 262 Life in the MofussiL was ordered by Jung Bahadur, nominally prime minister, but really king of Ncpaul, to give up the patwarrees, and pay a fine of 500 rs., or ^50, which Jung wished to make- over to the aggrieved parties ; and the offender was to be punished by six months' imprisonment in his own Jiousc. The fact was, that he was a friend, if not a connection, of Jung Bahadur's, and at first he was inclined to be recalci- trant and actually defeated a small band of men that Jung sent for his arrest. However, he thought better of it, and made haste into Katmandou, to make due submission, and was sentenced as above. Our Government refused to allow the patwarrees to receive the 500 rs. ; but they came to me and thanked me in the most touching way for their restoration to freedom and their native country. They had not been badly treated, but very much frightened. After this I allowed Jugdeo to perform his usual duties, but I thought it advisable always to treat him with con- siderable reserve. Another annoying thing took place about this time. Two brothers had had a quarrel, and the one had struck the other and killed him on the spot. The deceased had an enlarged spleen, which had been ruptured by the blow and caused instantaneous death, a very common thing in India. There was no doubt about the case ; but as the place of occurrence was only six miles off, I rode out in the morning, telling the head constable who had charge of the case to meet me on the spot. The father of the deceased was a poor peasant, and after I had finished my inquiry, which disclosed no new facts, he came to me with a propitiatory offering of 1 rupee (2s.) in his hand. The A Wife too Many. 263 head constable, — whose own salary, by the way, was only 14s. a month, — intervened, saying, " No ; you are a poor man, the hakim will not take anything from you." If I could have killed him with a look, I suppose I should have done so. But the harm was done, no amount of explanation would have made the rustic understand that we officials thought it wrong to take presents. He would only have been frightened, and thought that he ought to have offered more. As for the policeman, he naturally would have taken a bribe willingly offered, and would probably have demanded it if it had not been. I scolded him to the best of my ability ; but I knew he was no worse than his compeers. Curiously enough, on my return I found another body awaiting my inspection — that of a beautiful Mohammedan girl, about seventeen years of age. She had a deep wound behind one ear, and the mark of a cord round her neck. The story of this case is best told in the confession of one of the murderers, or rather murderesses, of the deceased. " My name is Sukee, and my husband and I had been married twenty years. We have two children, one my daughter (about eighteen) who killed the deceased with me, and my son married who lives in another village. A year ago my husband married this other wife (the deceased). I am old and I am no longer pretty, but I have worked for my husband and brought up our children. When he married this other wife he neglected me ; he spent all his money on her, and gave her new dresses and the key of the rice store. To us, my daughter and me, he gave nothing. She used to mock us and laugh at us, 2 >4 Life in the Mofussil. and dance before us in her new dresses ; and often we had nothing to eat when my husband was away from home, as she would give us nothing. "The other day, when my husband was away, my son had come over to visit me. He had come a long way, and he was tired and hungry. I wanted to give him a meal, but I had nothing, and I humbled myself before the new wife and asked her for a little rice; but she refused, and mocked me and abused me, and my son was obliged to go away without food. Then my daughter and myself consulted, and we said we must kill her, otherwise our life is no- thing. So we waited until she had gone to sleep that night, and I strangled her with a string, and my daughter beat her head with a curry stone " (used for grinding curry powder). The daughter confirmed this story. She was a widow altogether dependent on her father. I felt sorry for them, very ; but I was obliged to commit them for trial to the Sessions Court, and Percival sentenced them to death, considering, that though they had had great provocation, as several hours had elapsed, and the murder had been committed with deliberation, this could not be taken into account. I informed them of the sentence, which they received with apathy. But in these cases the confirmation of the High Court is necessary, and the Judge in Calcutta to whom this happened to be referred commuted the sen- tence to transportation for life, on the curious ground that there was no "dole," or deceit, in the matter. When I informed the women of this, they were in de- spair. They begged to be hung instead ; and it was neces- An Illegal Lease. 265 sary to keep a careful watch over them to prevent their committing suicide. Prisoners under sentence of transpor- tation are sent to the Andaman Islands in the Bay of Ben- gal ; and the natives of India, who have a religious dread of the sea and an undefined fear of the nature of the savage inhabitants of these islands, — indeed a very vague idea of the whole thing, — would much prefer death to this exile. At length, on the Collectorate side, I came into an- tagonism with Furbelowe, as Manager under the Court of Wards. He had ejected, for arrears of rent, a certain lessee, without bringing a case in Court. The ejected party sued for recovery of possession, under the provisions of Act X. of 1859, alleging that his ejectment was illegal. Both parties filed the lease, in which it was agreed that the lessee, if in arrears, should be liable to ejectment without being sued in Court. I held that the lease was illegal, and contrary to the provisions of Act X. of 1859, and that I could not recognise it ; that such leases were intended to make the Court of Wards judge and plaintiff in its own case ; and that whenever the other party did not acquiesce in all its proceedings, the tendency would be to create dis- turbance. Supposing, for instance, that a lessee, whose ejectment was sought under these conditions, should resist, and the Court of Wards were to apply to the magisterial authorities for assistance, they would be bound, according to the law, not to interfere with the party already in possession, and to refuse the application. 1 therefore considered that the plaintiff in this case had been illegally ejected, and gave him a decree for recovery of possession. 266 Life in the Mofussil, This created a great sensation, as nearly all the Durb- hungah leases had been framed on these principles ; and Furbelowe told me afterwards that I had taken upon myself a grave responsibility, as both Blake and Coldham had approved this form of lease. I could only reply that I had, as a judicial officer, decided as I thought right, ac- cording to the best of my ability. The result, however, proved that I was right ; for this case was never appealed. The Lieutenant-Governor himself had the matter under consideration, and the form of lease was altered. I may mention that shortly before this Cookson's wife had arrived, and they were continuing to put up with me. She had brought her baby with her, a pretty little child of three months old, and Cookson had gone into Mozuffer- pore to meet her, and drive her out in his buggy. Seven horses were considered necessary for this journey, and animals had been borrowed for all the stages but one, which had to be accomplished by Cookson's own quad- ruped, a wretched little beast, furnished with very old rickety harness. At first it refused to start, and then dashed forward with a bound ; the harness all fell to pieces like tow, down came the shafts on the ground, both break- ing, while the horse disappeared in the distance. They were obliged to re-harness the horse just taken out, after making jury-shafts with a couple of bamboos, and arrived some two hours late for dinner, just as I had given up expecting them, and was preparing for bed. It was a startling introduction to Mofussil life for a young mother and baby. Poor young baby ! mj acquaintance with it was short ; A Death. 267 for less than a month afterwards, it fell ill of dysentery, and died after three days' suffering. The loss of a child is always a touching thing, but in this out-of-the-way place the anguish was doubly felt ; the more so as, I think, we were all conscious that the little one might have been saved, had European medical assistance been promptly available. The Native Sub-assistant Surgeon had done his best, according to his lights ; but he had never treated an European child before. I was at office when the sad news reached me in the afternoon. Burial follows so quickly on death in India, that the first thing to be done was to make the necessary preparations for conveying the little corpse the thirty-five miles into Mozufferpore. I went over to Furbelowe, who happened to be at Durbhungah. He was most kind, and sent a mounted messenger into Mozufferpore to give orders that the grave should be dug, ordered his carpenter to make a small coffin, and had daks laid for a barouche for the next morning. The poor parents were completely overcome, and I ordered myself to be called the next morning when the coffin should be ready. It came about four o'clock, and I called Cookson out, and asked if he would like to do what was necessary ; but both he and his poor wife were too prostrate with grief to do anything. So upon me devolved the inexpressibly sad office of nailing down the little clumsy case, made in native fashion. I recollect taking it out into the verandah, that they might not hear the sound of the hammer. As they drove off, about an hour after- wards, vis-a-vis to their mournful burden, the assembled servants raised a wail of lamentation ; and it was a relief 26S Life in the Mofussil. to me that my work in office was heavy enough to turn ni\' thoughts from the sad scene. They were away three days or so, and as (it being now about the end of March) a tiger party in the adjoining district of Bhaugulpore was about to make a start, and I had received an invitation to join it, I thought it a good opportunity to let them be alone in the house for a day or two on their return. There were also some native holidays coming in most conveniently, so the day before their re- turn, on going into Court, I ordered all the mookhtyars and legal agents present to come in, and I said, " Now I have worked very hard for a long time, and I am going away for three or four days' 'shikar' (sport), and I shall expect you all to behave well, and to have no riots or heavy cases in my absence. If any of your principals have any such case, I shall look upon their mookhtyars as bad men." They all promised to be good, just like children ; and "as I knew most of them would be glad to visit their friends and relatives in my absence, I felt pretty confident. That night I started in a palanquin, and the next day reached an outlying indigo factory, where I found a friendly planter, with an elephant ready to go on. After a couple of hours' rest, for bath and breakfast, we started, and had a long and weary night on the back of the elephant. It was not possible to sleep for one second, for fear of falling off, as we had only a "guddee," or cushion, no " howdah " (framed seat). It was very tedious, and we talked " de omnibus rebus et quibusdam aliis," about land tenure, indigo-planting, law of evidence, native marriages, A Night on the Back of an Elephant. 269 sudder distilleries, on which point he quite agreed with me, etc., etc. My companion was very intelligent, and I got a good deal of information from him. At length, about 5 a.m., we saw the white tents of the encampment, on the borders of the broad stream of the Coosee river, and in an hour and a half, refreshed by a cheery welcome and a cup of coffee, we were on our way to shoot. The Coosee runs down from Nepaul, and is bordered on its northern bank by the primeval forest of the Terai ; on the other bank, the land is cleared and culti- vated, while in the stream itself are numerous islands, covered with long grass, to which thousands of cattle are swum across for pasture. The tigers swim across from the other side to feed upon the cattle, and the annual loss to the herdsmen is very great. To the sportsman, however, the place is a paradise. There are plenty of deer, fiorican, and partridge, with an occasional rhinoceros. Our party was a large one, and included several ladies, who, after we had forded the river and formed line, were placed in the centre, on two of the steadiest elephants. The first day we got some deer, and I shot my first fiorican — a beautiful bird, and very good eating. We saw traces of rhinoceros, but did not come across the animals themselves. On our return, we found a crowd of Brah- mins feasting at the approach to the only practicable ford, and as the feast was spread on the ground, we could not pass through without disturbing them. We did our best, but some of the rice got scattered, and an elephant or two took a mouthful ; and I heard the Brahmins cursing us and our female relatives as we moved off, and praying their 2 yo Life in the Mofussil. gods to give us bad sport. We dined in a large tent, and the ladies sang, and made the evening pleasant ; though I am not sure that my bed was not the sweetest thing to me. The next day we visited another island, and had not been beating for more than an hour, when (despite the Brahmins' curse) the sportsman next to me in the line shouted, "Tiger!" and fired. I just caught a glimpse of some red and black stripes disappearing through the long grass, and fired also. The order to chase was then given, and the whole line moved on as rapidly as possible, the elephants all trumpeting, and everybody peering into the grass in front in a state of keen excitement. Presently, at a small open space, we came on some spots of blood, and while deliberating in which direction to go, I became sensible of a roaring, crackling sound behind. But the roar was not that of an animal ; and looking round, I saw a vast sheet of flame and smoke advancing towards us with the rapidity of the wind. "To the river," shouted our leader — planter and sportsman of old-standing ; and away we went at right angles to the fire, the island, for- tunately, being very narrow, and stood in the shallow water, while the flame rushed over the spot we had recently been beating. There was a strong west wind blowing, the dry wind of this season ; and the grass, set on fire probably by some herdsman's pipe at the other end of the island, had ignited like tow all along. It was exciting to see the cattle all rushing into the water ; but I was surprised to observe no wild animals, except one or two deer. An Island on Fire. 271 In about half an hour the fire had ceased, dying out as rapidly as it had blazed up, and we returned to our sport. We found several green patches which had not been burned, and here doubtless any animals that might have been on the island had taken refuge. Among others, our tiger. We beat all these without success ; but on emerg- ing from the last, we saw him in the distance, crawling with difficulty over the ground, where the burnt grass was still smoking. He was evidently badly wounded, and we soon came up to him, and finished him. Then one of the elephants was made to kick the body, to see that no life was left in him, — for practically dead tigers have occasion- ally killed over-rash sportsmen, — and finally we descended from our positions of safety and examined our prey. He proved to be a fair-sized tiger, and I was pleased to have assisted at his death ; though it was not admitted that I had been the first to wound him, so I did not get the skin. He had not shown fight at all ; but yet it was something to bag a tiger, and this was the first I had seen killed. With much jabbering and hauling he was got on the back of one of the guddee elephants ; and as the day was now well spent, we returned to camp. The Brahmins, who were now in their temple, which we had to pass on our way, looked sullen at the incfficacy of their curse. Before dinner, I saw the tiger skinned. It was a curious sight, and the muscular arrangements of the fore-arm and shoulder showed an astonishing power. One blow from a tiger's paw is enough to smash in the skull of a man. The next day we tried yet another island, and had 2 7- Life in the Mofussil. a long beat without getting any sport. It was fearfully hot, and the ladies were much done up. Suddenly my elephant, who was on the extreme right of the line, began to trumpet and show signs of alarm. It was a small animal, and not really fit to carry a howdah ; but I had been unable to get a better, and as it was known to be timid, its behaviour was not thought of much conse- quence. We were just commencing to descend a slope with grass some sixteen feet high all about us, so that it was not possible to see much, when the elephant on my left also began to trumpet. " What is all that row about ?" said our leader. He had scarcely uttered the words when there came a roar like many claps of thunder, and there was a tiger on the head of my elephant. He had got right on his head, and the ma- hout sitting on the neck was completely under his belly. The elephant was shaking his very best to get the brute off, which of course had the effect of very nearly shaking me out of the howdah. I felt myself holding on with one hand to the framework of the howdah, and trying to hold my gun straight with the other, while I was actually looking down the roaring animal's throat. I did pull the trigger ; but with the gun wobbling so it was just a chance where the bullet went, and it certainly did not hit the tiger. At the same moment he fell off, unable to retain his hold, and my elephant ran away. This takes longer to narrate than it did to take place. There were no trees, so there was no danger ; but the shaking was awful, and myself, my guns, and my servant A Fighting Tiger ■*/ o behind were rolled about like peas in a frying-pan. I cast a helpless glance back, and saw that the tiger had broken through the line of elephants, and was bounding away to the rear with his tail up, roaring as he went. A straight shot from some one bowled him over ; but it was evidently not a vital wound, for he stood up, having got into a place where the jungle was lighter, and looked at the line of elephants now advancing towards him. My mahout, who was really a plucky fellow, had now turned my elephant, and was with difficulty inducing it to fol- low the rest. The tiger now came charging down at the line and singled out the elephant of my friend with whom I had travelled. He was a magnificent sight, roaring and tearing up the grass as he came, with his bristles all erect and his tail lashing his sides; but my friend hit him in the foot with a bullet which com- pletely rolled him over. He was up again directly and charged all round till other wounds made him weaker and weaker ; and at length I managed, having now come up nearer, to send a bullet into his mouth. On measurement he was found to be ten feet six, a young tiger, and well marked. He was a grand animal, and had certainly done his best to give us the sensation we sought, for he had attacked us without being touched, and fought gamely to the end. Our captain told me he had never seen a narrower escape, as the brute's paw must just have shaved my face ; a few inches would have made all the difference in the result. One of the ladies told me she had got into a drowsy state from the heat, and was roused by the roar to see the spec- VOL. I. T 274 Life in the Mofussil. tacle of the animal on my elephant with his head close to mine. On taking stock of damages, I found that the mahout had had a great gout of flesh taken out of his left arm, and that there were some severe claw wounds in the elephant's forehead. These were, I expect, caused by the claws of the hind feet, which must have been expanded to their utmost, for I could scarcely span with one hand the space between the scratches. I had some brandy and water in the howdah, and washed the mahout's wound, which must have made him smart; but he seemed much more concerned that his "chapkan," or jacket, was torn. This was a matter easily settled, and he pluckily consented to go on beating, though my elephant was very fidgety and timid for the rest of the day, and anything but com- fortable. We rather hoped to get the female of our dead tiger; and in about half an hour after the above, being again in very thick jungle, some animal was observed moving the grass in front of us. We formed a widish circle, and commenced closing in with a keen sensation of excitement, when the animal made a rush out between two elephants, and proved to be an ordinary-sized hog deer. This caused a great revulsion of feeling, and nobody thought of firing at him. After this we took to small game, and finished the day pleasantly enough. The tiger skin was awarded to me on a consideration of all the circum- stances, and I was very pleased to get it. The next day being Sunday, I made a start in the evening of this eventful day, and by travelling a weary forty hours in Local Self-government. 275 a palanquin got back to Durbhungah in time to hold Court in the afternoon of Monday. Nothing trouble- some had occurred, but orders had been received that the new Municipal Act III. of 1864 had been extended to the town of Durbhungah. The intention of the Act was to commence the instruc- tion of the native community in the mysteries of local self-government. It gave me a great deal of trouble. Firstly, it was necessary to select persons to be recom- mended through the Magistrate and Commissioner to Government for appointment as municipal commissioners. I sent up the names of my honorary committee, with one or two others, all of whom were approved. The Magistrate of the district was ex-officio Chairman, and myself Vice-chairman. The Commissioner, Coldham, was an ex-officio commissioner, to give him the right to attend meetings if necessary, and the Public Works official, called the Executive Engineer, attached to the district, was also a member of the body, as an expert to be consulted. The scheme of assessment was changed, and the tax was to be an assessment not exceeding j\ per cent, on the rental of houses and lands situate within muni- cipal limits. The circumstances of the persons liable to the tax were no longer to be taken into consideration, and there was no power to exempt any one from pay- ment on the ground of poverty. As a very large num- ber of houses, or rather huts, in Durbhungah were let for 8d. or is. per annum, it will easily be understood that the collection of j\ per cent, on this sum in four 2; 6 Life in the Mofussil. quarterly instalments could not result in much profit to the Commissioners. Indeed, it was clear that the proceeds of the tax, at the maximum rate of j\ per cent., which was at once and unanimously decided upon by the commissioners, would be less than those under the old law. The new Act gave us power to spend all surplus receipts on hospitals, schools, and various other improvements ; but as it appeared probable that the payment of the municipal police, which was to be a first charge on our revenues, would absorb all but a few shillings annually, we found it scarcely necessary to frame any scheme for these purposes. The first thing we had to do was to reassess the whole town, which cost money and labour, for the result was 7,000 appeals, each of which must be decided by at least three commissioners. There were nine of us actually working members, and we divided ourselves into three parties, and so only had some 2,300 each to do ; but it was weary work, and a heavy addition to my other duties. Just at this time, too, occurred one of the fires usual in Durbhungah at this season, when every- thing is rendered as inflammable as touchwood by the dry west wind. I had previously issued orders in my capacity as magistrate, that all thatched houses in Durbhungah should be tiled, and no fires lighted between 8 a.m. and 6 p.m. The legality of these orders was more than doubtful, and I did not exact strict obedience to them ; but I hoped it would make the inhabitants generally careful. On this ocasion 700 habitations were burned down. The fire originated in a small thatched hut which 4 Hot-weather Fire. * I had not been tiled, and which leaned against a rather pretentious tiled mansion. When I went to view the scene of the conflagration, the owner of this latter assailed me with loud lamentations, saying, " What is the use of my obeying your orders, when the owner of this wretched little hut ruins us all by not attending to them." The owner was a poor old woman, who certainly had no money to spend on tiles, so I could say nothing in reply. However, all the burnt-out people now petitioned for remission of their tax until their houses should be rebuilt, and this necessitated 700 more inquiries and decisions. We all worked hard, none more so than Bunwarree Lall, mentioned above as having opened the bidding for subscriptions at the meeting called by me soon after my arrival at Durbhungah. I was much pleased with him, as he showed more energy and spirit than is usually found in natives of his class. He had, too, offered to spend 50,000 rs. in building a bridge over the river Bhagmatty, a narrow and deep stream about two miles outside Durbhungah, on the Mo- zufferpore road. His object was to built a temple on the other side of the stream, and make it easy of access by means of the proposed bridge. All he demanded of Government was, that the Public Works Department should supply him with a plan of the work ; but he in- sisted on keeping its construction under his own control, as he had dealings with Nepaul, and could get stone and timber down the river of good quality and at small ex- pense. His further object was to avoid waste of money 27S Life in the Mofussil. by the Public Works officials. He had very good grounds for this, and I supported his request to the best of my ability. The Public Works Department, how- ever, refused to supply a plan unless allowed to carry it out themselves, and held their own ; for as far as I know, the bridge is not yet built, and this great convenience lost to a large number of travellers. In the middle of all this, a heavy charge of rioting was brought against him. He had some land some few miles out of Durbhungah, and a boundary dispute had arisen between him and the owner of the neighbouring estate. Both parties had turned out in force, and blows had been interchanged, and one or two tolerably severe wounds in- flicted. It was not asserted that he was present in person, but as the inquiry proceeded evidence was forthcoming that he had instigated the rioters on his side. It was a complicated and difficult case ; but so far I had not found it necessary to compel his attendance in Court in person, when I received official information that I was appointed to officiate as Joint Magistrate and Deputy Collector of Nuddea, a district some 400 miles distant. I was inclined to think that I could leave this case for disposal by my successor. He was not to arrive for a fortnight ; but there were so many witnesses, and the defence was such a long affair, and some of the leaders of the riot on both sides had not yet been arrested, so that it was not probable it would be ripe for final orders before the expiration of that time. I was as much surprised as pleased to find the genuine Honourable Parsimony. 279 (at least I believed it so) regret expressed at my departure Cookson was naturally sorry. Nundiput had told him that he could not let any successor of mine have his house. He was entitled by the Government orders to one room in the new subdivisional residence. But the new sub- divisional residence, built on the model plan by the P.W.D., contained only three rooms, two bath rooms, and a veran- dah. The amount allowed for the purpose by a Govern- ment in this respect parsimonious in the extreme, was small, and the P.W.D. were not good hands at making small amounts go far. My successor was a married man ; and the problem of two married couples living in three rooms, of which the largest was only 20 ft. by 16 ft, was not to be solved. So he and his wife sought the shelter of the dak bungalow, and I persuaded Nundiput to let my successor have his house until the subdivisional buildings were completed. One of my clerks, I recollect, — having, I suppose, his own ideas of what the residence of a ruler should be, — asked me if the partially-erected residence was not the cookhouse (baworchi khana). I felt somewhat ashamed in telling him the truth ; though perhaps I ought to have been proud to think that the ruling nation was so careful of expenditure in such a matter. But I really believe that my native friends were as sorry as Cookson. I was the first hakim who had been settled at Durbhungah ; and though I have been obliged, through fear of being prolix, to omit many details illustrative of the fact, I was on terms of genuine friendliness with all the leading native gentry in the neighbourhood, — such friend- 2 $o Life in the Mofussil. liness, I moan, as caste restrictions and national charac- teristics would permit. I had always been specially care- ful to conform, as far as my knowledge allowed me, to their notions of courtesy ; and, to the best of my recollection, had never wilfully hurt the feelings of any of them. As regards my Court work, I had honestly done my best for the convenience of suitors ; and, being a tolerably quick worker, had avoided vexatious delays. There were some, of course, who disliked me. For instance, I don't think Nokee Lall was sorry to see me go ; and the younger brother of Ganeshur Singh, the young Rajah's uncle, Mitreshur, probably disliked me, as I had endeavoured to bring him to terms with his brother, with whom he was quarrelling about their ancestral property, and whom I believed to be in the right. My moral influence was, I consider, worth something. I have omitted to mention that in the cold season just past, an Agricultural Exhibition had been held in Mozuf- ferpore. The new Lieutenant-Governor was desirous of introducing a series of these, and hoped to accustom the mind of the native cultivator to some new ideas about husbandry (at present the same implements are in use as those of the time of the flood, or antecedent to it) and breeding cattle, etc., etc. Upon me devolved the task of stirring up the landholders in the Durbhungah jurisdiction to exert themselves to assist in contributing to the forth- coming show. It was only through them that the small peasant farmers could be got at. I held an open-air meeting, at which some of the land- owners and a good many of their agents attended, and An Agricultural Show. 28 1 placing the former on my right hand and the latter on my left, I adjured them, in the best Hindustani I could com- mand, to be zealous for the credit of the district of their birth, and not to allow it to be surpassed by the contribu- tions of outsiders. The landlords I addressed as " ap log," the honorific title given to an equal in conversation, and begged them to bestir themselves ; the agents, as " turn," the term given to inferiors, and begged them to stir up their principals. My planter friend, the patriarch above mentioned, was present, and complimented me on the manner in which the proceedings had been conducted. As a result, the Durbhungah subdivision was really well represented at the Show. I was ordered in there, to assist during the week that it lasted, and held my Court in a tent pitched in Ellis's compound. The Show grounds were down by the Race Course in a grove of trees. I was deputed, with one or two others, to receive or reject objects brought for exhibition. Among other things that I was compelled to reject, were a spotted deer, a peculiar kind of crane, a puppy with five legs, and a he-goat that gave milk. The populace, too, had curious rumours about the pur- pose of the Exhibition, which had to be contradicted. There were seven gates to the grounds, and most of the samples of grain were exhibited in very small earthenware platters, ranged on wooden shelves. One rumour was to the effect that cannon were to be planted at each of these gates ; that when a large crowd of people were assembled inside, at a given signal they were all to be ordered to cat VOL. I. U jSj Life in the Mof&ssil. out of these platters, and so lose their caste. Those who refused were to be blown away from the guns. I also had to act as judge in awarding prizes for grain exhibited from the neighbouring district of Sarun ; but I managed to get an intelligent native gentleman to go round with me, and with his advice I managed to give tolerable satisfaction. On the whole, it was a very jolly time, for a great num- ber of Europeans were assembled, and only suitors with real grievances took the trouble to come all the way in from Durbhungah to prosecute their cases, so that my Court work was light, and I had a little leisure to enjoy myself. Ellis was a good deal worried with arrangements and correspondence ; and when I afterwards became a full- blown Collector I was able to appreciate the enormous additional work that these extra things threw on an officer in that position. On such occasions a Collector may truly say, with the Psalmist, " Lord, how are they increased that trouble me ! " I was complimented on the result of the influence I had exercised ; and now I was to leave the place where I had employed nearly two years in creating that influence, and go among a people who knew me not. And yet I could not say that I should have wished it otherwise, for the move was promotion to me. I should draw an extra ^240 a year, should be stationed at the head-quarters of the district as the Magistrate's first lieutenant, and lead a much less lonely life. And yet I was really and truly sorry to say good-bye to my Tirhoot friends, and w r ould Good-bye to Durbhungah. 28 j much have preferred that my promotion had been to the post held by Melville in Mozufferpore. He was just appointed to act as Civil Officer with the column about to invade Bhootan. Cookson I never saw again. The number of Assistant Superintendents of Police was not long after much reduced ; and he was one of those whose services were dispensed with, and who received a small compen- sation. Nearly all my furniture was eagerly bought up by my native friends, — I mean chairs, tables, dog-cart, lamps. They would probably none of them ever be used, but kept in a special room, " dekhne ke waste" (to be looked at). On leaving a district, civilians are allowed to dispose of their goods and chattels in this way, as it is not supposed that the natives will be anxious to curry favour with them any longer, and no suspicion can attach to the transactions. Yet many of my Durbhungah friends continued to corre- spond with me for a long time ; and I received a letter from one only the other day, after the lapse of a dozen years from the date of my last seeing him. At length the day of departure arrived. I had made over charge to my successor ; I had given so many cer- tificates of character to clerks, police officers, chuprassies, tax darogahs, distillery darogahs, and every other person who had served under me, that I was weary of writing the words, "performed his duties to my entire satisfaction." These certificates are most eagerly sought after, and in more advanced districts the natives have all they gel printed, and bound up into little books. Some of those more intimately connected with me had gone as far as 284 Life in the Mofzissi/. the river which Bunwarree Lall had wished to bridge, and there I found him and Wahid Ali Khan. I promised to say a last good word for his bridge in Mozufferpore, and was quite relieved at length to find myself alone with my groom. UN.VERS.TY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. IVEM/£ ^OJITCHO^ %-^ Set y o\mmi$>