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THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND 
 
 MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID 
 
EASTWARDS, 
 
 OK 
 
 REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE 
 
 BY 
 
 C. P. A. OMAN, 
 
 LATE OF TIE.HOOT, BENGAL. 
 
 iCouiionr^^iH^ 
 
 SiMPKiN, Marshall & Co., 
 
 Paternoster Row. 
 
 PRINTED BY 
 
 F. C. Harrison, 
 
 24, dueens Terrace, St. Johns Wood. 
 
 MDCCCLXIV. 
 
955" 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Inteoductory . . . .1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 Egypt— The Red Sea . . . : 18 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Madras Roads — Calcutta . . . .38 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 Bazaar— Indian Night — Mrs. Plan don's "At Home" . 57 
 
 CHAPTER Y. 
 Visit to the Ranee — Revenue Settlements of Bengal . 82 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 The Meeting — Trip to Kishnaghur — Buffalo Shooting . 96 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Combat bet'o^een an Elephant and Buffalo — Encounter 
 
 with a Tiger ..... 114 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 The Civilian's Hurdle Race— Boar Hunting — Alligator 
 
 Fishing— Calcutta Botanical Gardens . . 135 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Indian Jugglers — Wrecked in the Hooghly — Struggles 
 
 proposes . . . . .156 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 Mussooree — the Captain's Wall — Rosa Martine . 177 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 A Picnic in the Himalayahs . . 203 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 The Mutinies of 1857 — The Sheristadar and the Banian 
 
 — A Tenting Scene— The Gipsy Girl . . 225 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 The Duel — Poor Struggles — The Gallant McDonell . 256 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 The Siege — The Timely Deliverance— Einale . . 275 
 
EASTWARDS, 
 
 OR 
 
 REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 
 
 CHAPTEE I. 
 
 INTEODTJCTOBT. 
 
 0?f a mild, sunshiny morning, in the month of May, might 
 be seen, sauntering up the promenade of one of our fashionable 
 spas, two pale little children, who ever and anon turned to the 
 black ayah with them, and prattled some outlandish words, 
 much to the amusement of the other nursemaids who were on 
 duty at the same place. The poor ayah looked a miserable 
 object in her thin semi-English dress, arid, no doubt, was 
 longing to return to her dearly-beloved land of curry and rice, 
 hookahs and pawn. 
 
 The two children are the hero and heroine of our story. 
 The boy is about six, and well grown, but has not the clear 
 complexion or plump limbs of an English-born child. There 
 is no doubt, however, of his pure Anglo-Saxon origin, which is 
 
 1 
 
^ EASTWARDS, OH 
 
 written clearly on his high forehead, in his hght'-gray green 
 eye, and curly brown hair. 
 
 The girl is a tin}- wee thing of four years, and seems weak 
 in her ankles. A year or two more, and her career would 
 have been finished in that cruel India. She has sweet little 
 features, bright blue eyes, and auburn hair ; a gentle, timid 
 thing now, and likely to be so hereafter, if voice, and feature, 
 and gesture are any indications of her future. 
 
 They are joined presentl}^ by two grave, elderly ladies, 
 dressed alike in dark colours, who stooped to kiss the little 
 ones, and then speak a word of encouragement to grumbling 
 old Mooneah, for whom they feel great pity and are detaining 
 till they can get her a ship, and another nurse can supplant 
 her in the affections of the children. 
 
 " Well, Mooneah, how are the babas (children) to-day r 
 (They know a word or two of ITindostanee, you see.) Their 
 colour seems much better ; eh, ayah ? Do jou feel cold 
 You really ought to give up wearing those thin shppers. 
 How do you like the shawl we gave you ? Is it warm 
 enough ?" 
 
 " Ah, Mem Saheb," drawled out the black woman, "shawl 
 bery good, but I not like dis contree; no bazar, no curry, 
 no smoke hookah. When ship be ready to take Mooneah 
 back?" 
 
 " Very soon, a\'ah ; you shall go, if possible, in the vessel 
 which brought you here. She will be read}- to sail nex 
 month." 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAJS' LIFE. 3 
 
 "Now, Hampton; now, Laura," said they, addressing the 
 children, " let us see how fast you can run to that big chesnut 
 tree." 
 
 The little pair do their best, while their aunts watch, with 
 newly-awakened interest, their anything but effective display 
 of activity. " They will do better by and bye, won't they, 
 Catherine ?" said Aunt Jane. " Poor things ! how weak 
 the}' are." 
 
 Our little friends are the children of Major Templemore, an 
 officer in the Bengal army. He had seen his other little 
 ones dwindle and die from the effects of climate, and was 
 determined, if possible, to save the two last by sending them 
 to England early. They were entrusted to the care of his 
 maiden sisters, who were prepared to show them all the kind- 
 ness that affection for their brother, and pity for the two 
 delicate little creatures, could produce in their susceptible 
 hearts. The children's mother died a few months before they 
 left India, and they have little recollection of her. Sometimes, 
 in after years, Laura fancied she could recall her sweet wan 
 face as she watched their gambols of an evening on that, to 
 them, delicious play-ground, the terrace of their house at 
 Delhi. But it may have been only fancy, for the portrait 
 left to aid her memory was taken years before, and repre- 
 sented a pretty rosy English girl. 
 
 Often did the sensitive little Indian child wish that she 
 could have lavished on her mother that love, which she knew 
 she could have shown, had Providence spared her a few j^ears 
 
4 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 longer. This thought, however, she felt was almost ungrate- 
 ful to her aunts, for no mother could have been more loving 
 or attentive to their little charges than they were. Hampton 
 was not of such an imaginative temperament as his sister, and 
 though her senior, seemed sooner to forget his parents, and all 
 the little incidents of his babyhood. He had, indeed, an in- 
 distinct idea of his father being a soldier, ever so high, sa}'- 
 seven feet, commanding an army of one hundred thousand 
 black sepoys. Then he jumbled up snakes, cockroaches, and 
 green lizards, with the tame leopards kept by the King of 
 Delhi for hunting antelopes in the adjacent plains, which 
 his father had once taken him to see. And, by the 
 bye, he did remember his mother's old ayah, Sookeah, and 
 that ugly old sirdar-bearer who played with him from morn- 
 ing to night, and was called by the euphonious name of 
 Eamoo. 
 
 Years rolled by, and still Major Templemore remained in 
 India. Enticed by that terrible ignis fatuus, the emoluments 
 of a staff appointment, he lingered on and on till one day, 
 when Laura was about twelve years old, a letter v/as handed 
 to the elder Miss Templemore at breakfast time, after opening 
 which she became deadly pale, and gave a glance at her sister, 
 who rose and accompanied her from the room. A vague 
 terror seized the two children ; a sense of some undefined evil 
 filled their minds, the remembrance of which often recurred 
 to them in after years, and was the more deeply imprinted on 
 their memories from tlie day being a bright summer's one, on 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 5 
 
 which they had been invited to join a joyous party in a pic- 
 nic to Dowdeswell wood. 
 
 Their aunts did not come back, so Laura followed them, 
 and softly crept into the drawing-room, which was nearly 
 dark from the shutters being closed. She found them silently 
 w^eeping, and was not rebuked for coming into the room un- 
 bidden. They took her fondly between them, and, bending 
 over her, kissed her gently, while one of them whispered, 
 **You are now an orphan, indeed, Laura. Grod has taken 
 your father away." Those who have not been separated from 
 their parents in childhood cannot feel as the sensitive little 
 Laura did. Were her bright dreams fled, lost, gone for ever ? 
 Was she never to cling round papa's neck, as she had often 
 pictured herself doing ? never to talk to him about long lost 
 mamma, and what they used to do in that to her fair}^ land, 
 far ofl" India ? Were they never to walk through green lane or 
 shady wood together, she showing him the way and gathering 
 sweet-scented wild flowers ? Was he never to call her his 
 darling and his blossom, and make her wild with joy by his 
 tenderly shown love ? These thoughts were more than she 
 could bear, and she sank unconscious into her aunts' arms. In 
 a day or two, when she was more composed, they read her the 
 letter, which was a very kind one. It said that Major Tem- 
 plemore had died from a low fever acting on an enfeebled con- 
 stitution, and that he had left his property equally divided in 
 trust for his children, in the hands of the writer, his brother 
 George, who was a civilian in Bengal. Enclosed were a few 
 
6 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 lines from his wife, of formal condolence, and an invitation 
 which amounted to a command, for Laura to join her when she 
 \vas seventeen. Hampton was to have a nomination to Addis- 
 combe when he was old enough, through the influence of a 
 cousin of his father's, who was a director, and a man of in- 
 fluence in London. 
 
 Time did not thoroughly eflace her sore trial from Laura's 
 mind, but the lines written on the tablets of her memory 
 gradually grew fainter. "Were this not so we should be 
 crushed by our very first grief, and the world's great chorus, 
 in which the song is made providentially to drown the sigh, 
 would be one mournful dirge. Hampton showed some of his 
 sister's feelings, but he was more stolid than she was, and 
 although not wanting in kindness of heart, he could not 
 realise the amount of grief which she felt, and was consoled 
 much sooner. He joined the Cheltenham College about this 
 time, and the novelty and excitement of his position soon 
 weaned his thoughts from the past to be centred on the future — 
 the hopeful glorious future. Laura was not sent to any school, 
 and was brought up in a quiet unsophisticated way by her 
 aunts, who were very children in the world's stratagems, and 
 dreaded to think that their darling should become a mere 
 milliner's dumm3^ She had overcome all the little delicacies 
 of constitution engendered by her being born in India, and at 
 sixteen was as graceful a specimen of womanhood as ever 
 charmed the eye of devoted parent, or enchained the fancy of 
 chivalrous youth. Her voice was sweet as distant music, her 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 7 
 
 every movement told of bounding health and strength and 
 youthful symmetry ; she had not, as yet, been blown upon by 
 the v^orld's corrupting breath, and her clear, unshrinking, yet 
 modest glance, told of the innocence of her mind. Hampton's 
 physical energy, we are obliged to confess, was decidedly 
 superior to his mental, and by the time he was eighteen he 
 was a fine strapping fellow. Who does not, of bis quondam 
 schoolfellows, remember the awful kick he gave the football 
 in that grand match, when he flattened bully William's nose, 
 disfiguring that young gentleman for nearly a fortnight. Who 
 has forgotten his tremendous scores at cricket, or that terrific 
 fighb he had with the grammar-school boy, who was half a 
 head higher than himself, and weighed fully one stone more ? 
 In due course Hampton went to Addiscombe, finished his 
 studies there, and was appointed an infantry cadet on the 
 Bengal establishment. It was arranged that he should go 
 out overland with his sister, whose departure was now at hand. 
 He returned to Cheltenham for a month or two, and was 
 delighted to renew his old acquaintances ; not a little proud 
 was he also to show off before his former schoolfellows, who 
 on their part felt highly honoured by his notice. Laura found 
 that the kind of halo which surrounded her, as one fated to go 
 to India, was not such a charming fact, when she had to fulfil 
 her destiny in reality. She looked upon her aunts with the 
 fondest affection, and the beauties of the spot she had spent 
 her childhood in, had twined themselves imperceptibly round 
 her heart. But go she must. Often did her sorrowing aunts 
 
8 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 deplore their want of means to adopt and maintain lier in her 
 proper sphere in England, but sucli was not to be her lot, and 
 they yielded up the solace of their old age with bitter, hope- 
 less regrets. The outfit buying was a sorrowful affair, and 
 Laura's young friends must have thought her most un- 
 natural for not taking more interest in the pretty things 
 selected. 
 
 At last all was ready. Brother and sister knew the day when 
 thej were to join in London a Madras civilian and his wife ; 
 the latter of whom was to act as Laura's special protectress, 
 as far as Madras, whence a four days' trip would take her to 
 Calcutta, where her uncle George awaited her arrival. There 
 is not much more to tell of our heroine before leaving Chelten- 
 liam. She had lived such a quiet secluded life with her aunts 
 that she had enjoyed little opportunity of creating any 
 romances, such as she used to be entertained v.^ith by her fair 
 companions. But do not fancy, young ladies, that she had not 
 pictured the ideal prince, who was one day to come and woo 
 her ; and that, failing that sweet and illustrious individual, 
 she had not thought that she might reasonably be content 
 with somebody like handsome Conrad Daymer, who sat in 
 church near her, and who, used to steal a glance at her now 
 and then during service, making her (I am sorry to say) 
 think more of the effect of her Sunday bonnet than the 
 sermon. There is little doubt that the meeting at the church 
 door was also contrived, although she only suspected it then. 
 The way, too, in which he stopped that great plunging horse 
 
EEALITIES or INDIA?; LIFE. 9 
 
 of General Feebul's, when it was about to run over aunt Jane 
 and herself, was decidedly heroic, and of course she admired 
 him greatly for his prowess. This incident led to a closer inti- 
 macy, and the acquaintanceship gradually ripened into friend- 
 ship ; but she was very young, and love — with all its absorbing 
 force — had as yet only gently touched her heart. What effect 
 time and separation had upon her feehngs will be seen in the 
 progress of our story. 
 
 It is needless to describe the painful parting of our youthful 
 travellers from their dearly loved aunts. The latter would 
 not see them, the morning they went to the railway ; and all 
 concerned tried to console themselves with the idea, that they 
 should write so often, India was so close now, and a dozen 
 other sophistries of the like character. Hampton doubled 
 himself up in a corner of the railway carriage, and wished 
 those fellows from the college had not come to see him off, for 
 he knew he was almost "crying, and it would never do for them 
 to report such a thing of the game Templemore. Our heroine 
 hid her tears beneath a thick veil, and could not give any very 
 distinct reply to a soft voice, which, just as they were starting, 
 said, '• Grood bye, Laura, God bless you ! I shall soon bring you 
 some late news from Cheltenham, as in another month or two 
 I shall probably be on the road to India." These were 
 Conrad Daymer's last words, and he seemed as miserable as 
 she was. Sometimes in deep thought, sometimes shedding 
 bitter tears, Laura was landed at her chaperon's residence in 
 London, by her brother, who, after a hasty introduction to 
 
10 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Chantne^^, and a hurried farewell to his sister, 
 went off to an hotel in the neighbourhood. Here for a while 
 their routes became different, as Hampton was to go in a 
 steamer with the heavy luggage from Southampton, while she 
 journeyed across France a few days later, with her new friends, 
 meeting again at Alexandria. Mrs. Chantney was quite an old 
 Indian in her appearance and manners, although she was not 
 at all an old woman. She had that worn, haggard look, 
 which Englishwomen acquire after a long residence in the 
 tropics, and was dressed fashionably and yet carelessly. She 
 was much less stiff, our heroine thought, than untravelled 
 Englishwomen generally are, and altogether had a slightly 
 foreign air, which rather pleased than otherwise. She seemed 
 satisfied with her young companion's appearance, and very 
 soon commenced a series of lectures concerning her conduct on 
 board ship, &c. "You know, my dear," she said, "without 
 any flattery, you are very nice looking, and there are always 
 a number of good for nothing young officers on board these 
 steamers, who will try to persuade you that they are ready to 
 jump overboard for your sake, while the truth is they are 
 probably engaged to some confiding girl in England, or have 
 sworn the same vapid oaths to every one they have danced 
 with ; and in fact have been so spoiled by the way the young- 
 women go on now-a-days, that they are insufferable. India 
 is the place to put a stop to that kind of thing. Fifty men 
 and twenty women only in a ball-room, soon brings Mr. 
 Jackanapes to his senses, and young ladies learn to value 
 
EEALITIES OF I^'DTAN LIFE. 11 
 
 themselves a little more, and can pick and choose exactly in 
 the way the men do here. Oh ! you will find it quite 
 delicious after the experience you have had at home." 
 
 Laura pretended to be ver^^ knowing indeed, but in truth 
 she hardly knew what Mrs. Chantney was talking about, for 
 she had not been out to many balls or parties, and her mind 
 was as unsophisticated as the good example and training of 
 her aunts could make it. She did not see much of Mr. 
 Chantney, who seemed to be a harmless individual, with a 
 great aptitude for smoking, and who had a fixed idea that he 
 was thrown away in India, whereas, if he had been allowed to 
 work his way in England, he would have been at the head of 
 his profession ; the probability being that, having neither 
 application nor talent, he would never have earned more than 
 a hundred or two a year, as a clerk. He did, however, very 
 well for the land of ryot warree settlements, and other be- 
 nighted isms.* 
 
 Mrs. Chantney had a decided objection to the sea route 
 from Southampton via the Bay of Biscay, and intended 
 to go slowly through France. So Laura had the pleasure 
 of admiring its gay capital, buying a beautiful silk or two 
 at Lyons, and exploring the environs of Marseilles for 
 a couple of days. The steamer which took them to Alexan* 
 dria was unusually crowded, December being a favorite month 
 for making the dreaded journey down the Eed Sea, and our 
 heroine began to realise some of the incidents which Mrs. 
 
 * Madras iii called the benighted pre:5idency by Bengalese. 
 
12 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 Chantney had told her were likely to happen. There, true 
 enough, were the newly-niarried couples, who had eonimenced 
 their honeymoon in France, and who made themselves so 
 painfully ridiculous by their billing and cooing. Then there 
 there was a grumpy old general, three or four civilians and 
 their wives, a tough-looking old Scotch doctor, several 
 married ladies en route to join their husbands, two or three 
 spinsters, a dozen officers of all ages and sizes, some Dutchmen 
 and their families for Batavia, and last, though not least, a 
 French commandant of troops serving in China, with Mon- 
 sieur le Baron attached to the diplomatic corps there, and a 
 romantic little French doctor for Pondicherry. Sixty 
 passengers in all, but what were these to the crowd they will 
 join at Alexandria ? not less than a hundred more, they were 
 told, made up from every nation in Europe, Can a more 
 amusing scene than the deck of an overland route steamer, 
 under these circumstances, be imagined ? splendid weather, a 
 well supplied table, and a magnificent vessel careering along 
 at the rate of twelve or thirteen knots an hour, are enough to 
 put everyone in the highest spirits ; and it is no wonder that 
 some wild pranks are played now and then in Egypt, by the 
 younger passengers, who are half mad with excitement and 
 the novelty of their position. A beautiful day saw them 
 cutting through the sparkling waves of the Mediterranean, 
 off the South of France. Fine weather accompanied them 
 the whole way, and bright moonlight shone on Malta's walls 
 as thev entered its romantic harbour. Here a few hours' 
 
KEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 13 
 
 delay enabled Laura to see the usual lions, buy some light 
 lace articles for her aunts, write them a hasty line or two, 
 and then they were off again for Alexandria. 
 
 Having dismissed our heroine from Malta, we must allow 
 Hampton Templemore to describe Ids fortunes after leaving 
 Southampton. This he did in a letter to an old schoolfellow 
 and friend, John Sterndell, who had passed through the 
 Cheltenham College, and was preparing for Cambridge previous 
 to entering himself at the Bar. 
 
 " OiF Southampton, o?i board the P. and 0. Steamer, 
 December -^th, IS 5 — . 
 
 " Mt deae Jack, — Here I am in the greatest bustle and 
 confusion I ever experienced. There are over one hundred 
 passengers of all sorts, sexes, and sizes. They have shoved 
 me into a hole with three other cadets, two of whom were my 
 detestation at Addiscombe. One of them, Binkey, is a horrid 
 snob, couldn't play at cricket or anything ; the other is a 
 sneak ; I am convinced he once peached on my being at 
 Croydon, when I ought not. If I can only manage to let in 
 a heavy sea on them some day or other, through the port, I 
 shall be happy. The third is in the Engineers, very studious, 
 and can't smoke a bit. We have two small basins to wash 
 in, and the allowance of water may be guessed by the diminu- 
 tive size of the jugs. How they manage to feed and attend 
 on us all I don't know. There are a host of cooks, and twenty 
 
14 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 stewards, who balance plates and knives at dinner like 
 Chinese jugglers — still it must be hard work. One of the 
 mates tells me I ouafht to see them on the Indian side with 
 the thermometer at 100^. He says they are walking shower- 
 baths, and only live three years, not pleasant is it ? There is 
 great fun on board. I intend to keep this open till we reach 
 Malta, and write a little each day. 
 
 *' December 5th. — Nearly had a fight with Binkey, who 
 sleeps opposite me, about which of us should wash first. 
 Told him to behave like an officer and a gentleman, and that 
 he could find me whenever he wanted me. The row ended, 
 I am sorry to say, in my threatening to throw him out of the 
 port, which is impossible. Made friends to-day with a fellov/ 
 in the Queen's, he has been to India before, and is a 
 regular brick ; he has some of the primest baccy I ever 
 smoked. He says cadets are called griffs, and warns me not 
 to make a fool of myself. I shall do my best. There is such 
 a pretty girl on board with her mother ; I must try and get 
 some one to introduce me. 
 
 "6th. — There are rats in the cabin. They have stolen all 
 our socks. By Jove! is it the steward? If it is, and we 
 catch him, look out, that's all. Introduced to Miss Danvers 
 (the pretty girl) and her mother to-day ; strange to say, 
 Mrs. Danvers was at school with aunt Jane. We are awfully 
 thick now. I wonder if an ensign could manage to keep a wife. 
 
 "7th. — Eough sea to-day. All in our cabin very bad. 
 Steward swears he won't bring in the mop anymore. I don't 
 
REALITIES OF IXDIAX LIFE. 15 
 
 sleep under the port. Such a sea came in this morning, 
 right over my two enemies, who do — 
 
 " 8th. — A little better to-day. Fanny Danvers on deck 
 again, looking pale but lovely. Could have annihilated an 
 old major with a beard like a chimpanzee, who would speak 
 to her. She said he was so annoying. 
 
 " 9th. — Expect to get into Gribraltar to-morrov/ earh'. The 
 coast of Spain very grand at the Straits, must get up to see 
 it. Have some foreigners and their wives on board ; they eat 
 like ogres. One of the wives devours red hot chutney in a way 
 that would astonish a salamander. Some of the young men 
 drink beer at dinner and luncheon in a shameful manner ; it 
 looks as if they never saw it at home. 
 
 " lOtli. — Got up at six ; paddled about the wet decks. The 
 cliffs at the entrance of the Straits are magnificent, and 
 crowned hj old monasteries and other striking buildings. 
 Got into Gibraltar at about nine o'clock. Went on shore, 
 v/ith my chum the Engineer, Looked over the lower fortifi- 
 cations ; didn't see much in them. My companion said they 
 were very strong, and he ought to know. Must be a terrible 
 sore to the proud Don to have so many John Bulls quartered 
 near him. Blows very hard, always blows at Gibraltar; very 
 nearly swamped getting on board. 
 
 " 11th. — Lett Gibraltar yesterday evening. Expect to get 
 to Malta by the 13th. The weather is beautiful, like our 
 English spring. Mrs. Danvers asked me to-day how old I 
 was, and whether I was in the civil service ; said no, and 
 
16 EASTWAKDS, OE 
 
 that I preferred honour to pay. She said oh! and then 
 remarked, it was a pity infantry officers were so ill paid, as 
 they could not expect to marry and be respectable for a 
 number of years. Felt my face get rather red, and thought 
 her an old fool. 
 
 " 12th. — Forgot to tell you that we have a band on board, 
 formed from among the stewards. They play very fairly, 
 indeed. The first violin is quite a genius, — paints little 
 sketches on the tops of the music programmes, and is a 
 ventriloquist. One of the civihans on board has got hold of 
 Fanny Danvers, and she seems to enjoy his attentions. I 
 never noticed she had such large feet before. 
 
 " 13th. — In this morning to Malta. Not a green thing to 
 relieve the snuffy-brown look of the rock, except of course the 
 town itself, which is white, and is a huddled up mass of 
 terraces, steeples, and fortifications. The harbours are like 
 old quarries, filled with water, deep, awfully deep. The 
 streets leading from them up to the town, are nothing but 
 staircases under a false name. The principal features of life 
 are lace and oranges, with a dash of coral, bad jewellery, and 
 Canary birds. The horses (barbs from Africa) are very 
 pretty. The natives are regular Moors. Went to see the 
 old Knight Templars' Church of St. John's. You push aside 
 a curtain, and are in the centre of the place in a moment. 
 Women with black silk mantillas thrown over their heads, 
 and brigand-looking peasants in velvet and buttons are dotted 
 about the floor, kneeling. A group of priests are performing 
 
BEALITIES OP ITn^DIAT^ LIFE. 17 
 
 some service at the altar. Horribly out of keeping with, the 
 above are two or three parties from the steamer, with that 
 fierj' red face which Englishmen have when thev go sight- 
 seeing, and a look generally as if they were struggling not to 
 laugh — it is such bad taste ! The proportions of the building, 
 the Mosaic pavement and ornaments are splendid. An old 
 picture over one of the arches, monk or saint I don't know 
 which, particularly struck me. Saw the last Grrand Master, 
 Lisle Adam's tomb, and the solid silver altar rails, which were 
 whitewashed over and saved, when the French had possession. 
 Then to the church of the Capuchins to see the dried 
 mummies of departed Fathers, stuck up in niches in the wall, 
 a disgusting and purposeless display, for if any thoughts are 
 engendered in the mind, they are those of contempt for our 
 species as exemplified in those laughable old skeletons. I 
 shall write you again from Ceylon ; say everything that is 
 kind to my old schoolfellows and friends, and with every good 
 wish in this life for you and yours, 
 
 " I am, old boy, yours affectionately, 
 
 " Hamptok Templemore. 
 "P.S. — I forgot to say that we met a number of water- 
 spouts. One of them was so close that our course had to be 
 altered. We could see the water gyrating up the inverted cone, 
 as distinctly as possible, and hear the roar as the waves lashed 
 each other into fury at its point of junction with the sea. It 
 was going at a tremendous pace, and would swamp a fleet if 
 it caught it." 
 
 2 
 
18 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 CHAPTEE II. 
 
 EGYPT THE EED SEA. 
 
 All the way from Marseilles, the little French doctor, 
 whom we introduced to our readers in our last, had been 
 most attentive to Mrs. Chantne}^ and her charge ; and as he 
 v/as scrupulously respectful and polite, the former saw no 
 harm in accepting his '^ petits soins." In fact she was highly 
 amused at the account Laura used to give in the cabin of 
 the admiration he expressed for her. 
 
 " You are une dame distingue ; of such a noble air, and 
 you talk such beautiful French." 
 
 Then, in return, Mrs. Chantney told Laura that he was 
 dying of love for her. 
 
 *' You are so gentle, so beautiful a blonde ; ;i/ou are the reiil 
 attraction," she said laughingly, *' and I should not wonder 
 if he throws himself at your feet some evening, in a dark 
 corner, and vows to win you or die. He has already brought 
 out a volume of thrilling French poems, some of which he 
 has read to me, till the tears rolled down his great black 
 beard, and he is going to try their effect on you in the Eed 
 Sea. Have you not also heard a deep voice singing imploring 
 love songs somewhere near the gangway after dark ? That's 
 
KEALITIES OF INDIAK LIFE. 19 
 
 the doctor, my dear, and all that pathos is directed at you, 
 so take care of your heart, I warn you." 
 
 Two others of her fellow passengers had been marked by 
 Laura from the first, and she had taken rather a dislike to 
 them ; one was a Captain Desmond, and the other a bold, 
 fast-looking, yoww^zs^, young lady, whose name she discovered 
 to be Constance Browning. 
 
 Desmond was one of your military admirable Crichtons, 
 who seem to be able to do everything. He was decidedly 
 good-looking, could play on two or three instruments, draw 
 and dance well. One of those men who are always going to 
 sell out, or about to exchange ; bolting from their creditors, 
 or suddenly very flush of cash ; now in the Guards, and again 
 in a "West India regiment ; going to be married, till the 
 brother comes home and fights a duel with him ; or, if 
 married, divorced from his wife, who is notorious in London. 
 He seemed to think that Laura must at once be fascinated 
 by his attractions ; but somehow or other she did not like 
 the sinister blase look in his eyes, and treated him with 
 perfect indifierence. 
 
 Not so Miss Browning. 
 
 Perhaps she had never seen a man of his calibre before, or 
 perhaps only with the craving for excitement of a confirmed 
 man-hunter, she did all she could to secure his attention to 
 herself He, however, seemed more struck with our heroine's 
 innocent fresh look and manner, than with Miss Browning's 
 bolder style, and took much trouble in cross-examining Mrs . 
 
20 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 Chantney as to her destination and antecedents. That lady, 
 who had a strong incUnation for match-making, gave him 
 the most glowing account of everything she knew, and hinted 
 that Miss Templemore was quite an heiress. 
 
 Laura could not help noticing Captain Desmond's manner 
 to her ; and as she mused on the incidents of the last few 
 days, thought it so strange that she, yesterday but a school- 
 gu-l, should to-day be called on to join the battle of life, and 
 that she should so naturally fall into the ranks and do her 
 devoir with the best. The fact is that a trip, such as the 
 one to India, changes the thoughtless girl into the thinking 
 woman, in a day, so to speak. And lucky is she who has 
 good advice and kind protection to enable her to avoid being 
 led away by the false excitement of the situation. A girl 
 who perhaps has never had any particular attention paid to 
 her, suddenly finds herself a perfect heroine; and many a 
 heart-ache is the result, when the break-up of the party takes 
 place, and she discovers herself to be the victim of her own 
 vanity and the attentions of a man whose trade it is to flirt. 
 After a rapid and pleasant voyage, the steamer swept over 
 the bar into the harbour of Alexandria, which was as pic- 
 turesque as minarets, many pillared Pacha's houses, disabled 
 three-deckers, and strangle looking: craft from the Greek 
 islands, could make it. The passengers were landed in boats- 
 some at the proper quay, where the usual crowd of filthy 
 porters and hotel touters, surrounded them — others, amongst 
 whom were Mrs. Chantney's party, were for some unknown 
 
EEALITIES OF IXDIA^ LIFE. 21 
 
 reason taken to the unfinished railway pier. They had to 
 hop over the great rough blocks of stone, entangled them- 
 selves in a wilderness of iron rails, and wondering why they 
 w^ere there, found themselves at the back entrance of the 
 railway station. Here the officials in true Egyptian style, 
 seemed to know nothing of our travellers future, and to care 
 less. To add to the annoyance, strange to say for Egypt, it 
 began to rain in torrents. A leaky omnibus came to the aid 
 of our puzzled part}^, and off to an hotel was now the order 
 of the day. Here they found some of the passengers by the 
 Southampton steamer, amongst whom was Hampton, who 
 had been vainly enquiring for them in all directions. Laura 
 was delighted to see his bright handsome face once more. 
 He was very much sunburnt, had of course bought a blazing 
 red fez cap, and looked very Turkish indeed. 
 
 "Well, Laura," he said, "how do you like the journey? 
 I think it great fun. We had some strange characters on 
 board our ship ; and I say, do you remember aunt Jane 
 talking of Mrs. Dan vers. Well, she is here with her daughter 
 Fanny. 
 
 '* Who is that little man staring at you so ?" he whispered. 
 
 " Oh," she replied, with a smile, " that is a great friend of 
 ours, so romantic. I must introduce you to him. Monsieur 
 le Docteur, allow me to present my brother, an officer in the 
 Indian army." 
 
 The doctor was delighted at the notice taken of him, and 
 pulling Hampton into a corner informed him, that he was en- 
 
22 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 chanted with the dehghtful EngHsh society he had met with, 
 and that Mrs. Chantney and Miss Templemore were ravis- 
 santes. 
 
 The usual bad breakfasts were eaten, and were followed 
 by a great deal of rushing about, consequent on false alarms 
 that the train was about to leave. After numerous delays, 
 all decidedly discreditable to the management of the P. and O. 
 company and the railway officials, the start really did take 
 place. This was a few years ago, and things are now better 
 managed ; but were it not for the forgiving spirit produced 
 by the novelty, and by the anxiety to push on, in the case 
 of the outward bound passengers, and in that of the 
 homeward bound by their mad anxiety to reach England 
 on any terms, the want of order, smashing of boxes, trunks, 
 &c., and fine gentleman airs of some of the employes 
 (especially on the Indian side), would have brought any 
 company into disrepute. Passengers and their luggage 
 were hterally shovelled in at one end of Egypt, jumbled up 
 well in the transit, and shot out at the other in the most 
 disgraceful way. 
 
 At Suez a long wooden slide was used to transfer the bag- 
 gage from the steamer to the Arab boats or to the little steam- 
 tug. Down this we have seen go a general's cocked hat in a 
 tin case, followed at railway speed by a large wooden sea chest ! 
 The fate of the cocked hat may be imagined. '* Passengers 
 don't pay for the coals expended," used to be the dictum of 
 the ship's officers when talking on the above subject ; but this 
 
REALITIES OF IXDIAX LIEE. 23 
 
 seems to have been rather an illusion, as the directors had 
 to admit at one of their grand meetings to raise prices, that 
 the poor belied passengers paid very well indeed. Properly 
 printed orders ought to be given to every one, naming hours 
 of delay at the different halts, and then there would be no 
 confusion. 
 
 The Egyptian railway at Alexandria starts from an ill-built, 
 trumpery station, through a low swampy country, the ver^^ 
 picture of lower Bengal. Why the wretched villages are not 
 wooded like those of the latter country, is strange, for they 
 have the same rich soil and moisture. As to the huts or 
 kennels of the fellahs, they are a disgrace to humanity; and 
 rulers and ruled of such a land must be bad indeed — the one 
 to allow such a state of things, the other to put up with it. 
 It has well been said that Egypt is a land of soulless slaves 
 sroverned bv brigrands. 
 
 Monsieur le Docteur managed to be in the same carriage 
 with Laura, and was as devoted and romantic as ever. He 
 had the volume of poems all ready, and she laughingly assented 
 to his reading some of it to her ; but the shaking of the rail- 
 way carriage, with the originally tremulous, not to say im- 
 passioned, tones of the little man, produced such an effect 
 that Mrs. Chantney had to beg him to leave off. Mr. Chant- 
 ney did not generally laugh much, but he nearly went into 
 a fit on this occasion. The little docteur, however, was so 
 absorbed he took no offence, and said, " n'im.porte, he will do 
 in the Red Sea." 
 
24 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 After a very slow journey our travellers reached Cairo. It 
 Vv'as nearly midnight, and a tremendous rush was made for 
 the conveyances which take the passengers to the different 
 hotels. Our friends failed in getting a carriage at once, and 
 had to wait for some time. At last a phaeton and pair of 
 Arab ponies were secured. They galloped to Shephard's, but 
 were told every room was engaged. The same at the French 
 hotel. The}^ were starving. Where were they to sleep ? A 
 man who said he was a dragoman offered his services to find 
 them a resting place, and installed himself on the carriage 
 steps while he directed the coachman where to drive. They 
 were, however, no more fortunate at the next place they drove 
 to, nor the next, nor the next. The Arab coachman became 
 thoroughly excited, and drove to imaginary hotels, simply for 
 the purpose of running up his bill. At first Mrs. Chantney 
 and party were highly amused at the frantic altercations be- 
 tv/een the coachman and the pretended dragoman (who spoke 
 about ten words of English), but matters became serious when 
 they found lights were being put out, and all honest people 
 were going to bed. About this time they were joined by two 
 men with lanterns, who seemed to know the dragoman. One 
 of them got up beside the coachman, while the other took 
 possession of the vacant carriage steps. The scene was su- 
 premely ridiculous. The new comers seemed to think that 
 all the Arabic necessary to please English people with was the 
 word "Buckshish," and this, at any rate, was all that was 
 understandable in their horrible jargon. 
 
EEALITIES or INDIANS' LIFE. 25 
 
 Mr. Chautney's reply was, '• Very well, you Cyclopean vil- 
 lains (one of them had lost an eye), take us to an hotel and 
 I'll pay you anything." 
 
 A consultation would be held in Arabic, crack went the coach- 
 man's whip ; "Koobla," shouted the lanternmen and drago- 
 man ; " Hurrah," cried Hampton, plunge went the ponies, and 
 the\^ drove up to another house. Still with tne same result. 
 Mr. Chantney here got into a towering passion, stood up on 
 the seat, and made a long oration to his Arab friends. This 
 only produced the usual reply from the dragoman, " I very 
 good dragoman, plenty English got, give buckshish." 
 
 "Buckshish," screamed Mr. Chantney, "I'll buckshish you, 
 -you infernal Ishmaelites," and smashing one of the lanterns with 
 a sweep of his stick, made a general onslaught on everybody. 
 
 This produced the unpleasant result of their being left 
 without coachman, dragoman, or lanterns. He had, there- 
 fore, to take the reins himself, and drive back to Shephard's 
 (followed at a respectful distance by the owner of the carriage), 
 knocked that independent individual up, and insisted on sleep - 
 ing in the coffee-room divan if nowhere else. 
 
 It now turned out that there were several reserved rooms 
 to be had, but, in the usual Egyptian way of managing things, 
 none of the hotel people had troubled themselves mucli about 
 the matter. Had Mr. Chantney not forced his way into 
 the house, his party might have slept in the streets. 
 
 The scarcity of the accommodation was caused by the home- 
 ward and outward bound passengers meeting together at 
 
26 EASTWABDS, OE 
 
 Cairo, the Pacha having, from some frealc, forbidden the train 
 to go on to Alexandria for some hours. The apartments they 
 did secure were wretched. So, hungry, tired, .and musquito 
 tormented, Laura passed the night in romantic Cairo. Next 
 morning some hundred people met to scramble for breakfast 
 in the well-known saloon ; and there being a few hours to spare, 
 the travellers afterwards scattered, some Pyramid-wards, and 
 some to the citadels, bazaars, &o. The scene before Shep- 
 hard's at this time ought to have been sketched by John 
 Leech, and no one else. Twenty dirty, half naked, generally 
 (from ophthalmia) one-eyed Arab boys pushed twenty donkeys 
 and mules recklessly against one another. In broken English 
 they recommend their wretched steeds as " Handy Andy," 
 " G-reased Lightning," and a number of slang names, picked 
 up, goodness knows where, — one poor big-headed mule being 
 specially honoured by the name of the Duke of Wellington. 
 Add to these, twenty or thirty gentlemen, young and old, fat 
 and lean, competing for the possession of the above-mentioned 
 splendid stud — make them all smoking cigars, with muslin 
 pugrees round their beads, and cherry sticks for pipes in their 
 hands ; throw in fifty fearfully dirty porters, all sliouting out 
 " Buckshish ;" make an outer circle of ten or fifteen antedi- 
 luvian flys (generally open phaetons) banging and crashing 
 their wheels together, and you have a faint idea of the confu- 
 sion before the door of Shephard's hotel. 
 
 The railroad, had not, at the period we write of, been 
 finished to Suez. Our travellers had, therefore, to undero-o 
 
EEALITIES OF IXDIAX LITE. 27 
 
 the jolting and other miseries across tlie eighty miles of desert. 
 There were the usual halts, breaks down, getting out of enthu- 
 siastic youths to look for agates in the once sea-washed stones 
 of the wilderness, with all the little divertissements of that 
 weary journey, culminating in the horrors of the nov7 done- 
 away-with Suez Hotel. Our friends were glad, indeed, when 
 they found themselves on board the little tug which took them 
 down the shallow bay, to the noble steamer (now, alas, a 
 wreck !), the Colomlo. 
 
 The overland trip to vSuez is a mere party of pleasure ; but 
 from this point people begin to talk seriously of the heat, and 
 preparations for sleeping on deck are made by the more 
 knowing travellers. The black crew and the punkahs seem 
 strange, and speak of India to the uninitiated; while the 
 European officers, stewards and quartermasters look pale 
 and dehcate. As the steamer advances, the scenery on either 
 side becomes of the most awfully impressive and melancholy- 
 engendering character. The mountains, amongst which 
 Sinai is conspicuous, frown down on the glassy sea, rugged, 
 of a lurid black colour, and devoid of the slightest traces of 
 vegetation. Treacherous coral reefs stretch from their base, 
 and render the navigation most dangerous. The frightful 
 deserts lying behind them may be pictured by the imagi- 
 nation, and the horrors of being wrecked in such an in- 
 hospitable region involuntarily force themselves on the mind. 
 During some months the passage of the Ked Sea is a perfect 
 ordeal. Two stewardesses died of exhaustion a voyage or 
 
28 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 two before the one we record, and there is hardly any hot 
 weather which does not see one or more of the passengers 
 die of apoplexy. The hardiest natives of Eengal break down 
 as stokers on board the steamers on this route ; and the only 
 race of human beings who can undertake the task, are the 
 Seedees of Eastern Africa, and they are more like gorillas 
 than human beings. To see one of these blue-black cari- 
 catures of humanity come up dripping from the stoke-hole, 
 and throw himself on the hot iron plates round the funnel to 
 cool himself, is enough to make one shudder. They are 
 merry rascals, these poor Seedees, and Hampton and the 
 other young men used to scream with laughter, at the in- 
 describably ludicrous dance which they got up, under the 
 stimulus of sixpences and shillings bestowed on them by the 
 amused spectators. The natives of Bengal, who form the 
 Lascar crew of the steamers, are a soulless, lazy set, and an 
 African is worth a dozen of them. 
 
 In the voyage from Suez to Galle, lasting some sixteen or 
 seventeen days, more harm is done to some constitutions than 
 by a five years' residence in India ; and there is little doubt 
 that for the invalid the long sea voyage is the proper one, while 
 it is also the best means for acclimatising the young English- 
 man to the tropics. From November to March the Eed 
 Sea is bearable, and our travellers were lucky enough to be 
 in the best of these months, viz., December. 
 
 After two or three days everything and everybody settled 
 into their proper places. According to promise, Laura's little 
 
REALITIES or I>'DIAN LIFE. 29 
 
 friend, the doctor, daily regaled her with selections from the 
 most romantic of the poems in his book. But though she 
 understood French fair!}-, she could not thoroughly appreciate 
 the subtle, not to say outrageous conceptions of the Grallic 
 mind as portraj-ed in the pieces read to her; and notwith- 
 standing all the tragical starts and exclamations of the 
 enamoured Galen, we are afraid that the result, so far as 
 inflaming her heart with a burning passion, was not en- 
 couraging. Truth, moreover, compels us to disclose the sad 
 fact that, at last, when on deck (where everyone is all day), she 
 saw him coming armed with the book as usual, she simulated 
 (as a last resort) the most intense sleep, allowing her straw 
 hat to fall on her dear little nose, and snoring quite audibly. 
 This was very wa'ong, w^e admit, but it had the desired effect ; 
 and when on approaching his divinity he used to find her 
 asleep, he would raise both hands in admiration, whisper 
 " quel ange," and softly steal away for fear of waking her. 
 
 As the steamer progressed on the journey southwards, 
 windsails and punkahs helped to mitigate the heat, and 
 great excitement was produced by the captain announcing 
 that he would do his best to make Christmas day pass as 
 merrily as possible. 
 
 Christmas day in the Red Seal with the thermometer 
 at 95° in the cabins ! JSTot a sail on the water, or trace of 
 living thing on the shore. Earthquake-riven mountains, the 
 only representatives of old England'^ happy hills and dales. 
 The prospect of years upon year s of expatriation to many, 
 
30 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 and yet ! mirth and laughter, dance and song. Verily the 
 human mind is a wondrous work, and baffling to the analysis 
 of the subtlest philosopher ! 
 
 Plum pudding, mince pies, and all the other traditionary 
 viands of the season, made their appearance in due course. 
 Young ladies dressed their hair with extra care, and added a 
 ribbon or two to their light mushn dresses. Young gentlemen 
 engaged partners for the dance in the evening ; and the French 
 docteur was nearly mad with the idea of his being able to 
 show off" his artistic steps " a la Fran9ais," Laura and even 
 Mrs. Chantney having promised to dance with him. Some 
 cvnical and high-minded cadets wondered how people could 
 be so mad as to dance in such a hot place, when they could 
 have a pipe and a glass of grog under the foresail and 
 be comparatively cool, but they were not much regarded, 
 and were generally short and plain with red-haired ten- 
 dencies. 
 
 There was no ship's band, but a young medical man on 
 board played the concertina a merveille, one of the stewards 
 performed very fairly on the violin, and another on the cornet, 
 while Captain Desmond charmed every one (especially Miss 
 Browning) by his delicious little romances, accompanying 
 himself on the guitar. To increase the harmony, one of the 
 newly married couples attempted, but signally broke down in 
 a duet. The result of which catastrophe was, I am sorry to 
 say, a total withdrawal of the lady's affections from her lord 
 and master for nearly twenty -four hours. 
 
EEALITIES OF IXDIAX LIFE. 31 
 
 Dancing, blue-Hghts, rockets, and punch in unlimited 
 quantit}^ kept up the fun till late. 
 
 Monsieur le Docteur was highly pleased at the impression 
 his Parisian steps had made, and vras towards the end of the 
 evening in a decidedly tragical and semi-tearful state. He 
 said to Laura, " Madem^oiselle, you have honoured me, your 
 national enemy, b}^ youi* consideration, I devote myself hence- 
 forth to your service, and pledge you in this glass of ponche." 
 His hand went up ! Bang ! roared the unexpected report 
 of a twelve-pounder fired to announce the end of Christmas 
 day. The start caused the ponche to go the wrong way, 
 and the doctor flew from the spot spluttering and maddened 
 by the unfortunate interruption to his love making. 
 
 Next morning's sun shone on many a splitting headache, for 
 oh that punch had been made with the horrible fire-water 
 which the P. and 0. directors call brandy, and the captain 
 must have grinned a ghastly smile when he gave the order 
 to the chief steward to " spare it not." Everything but the 
 beer on the P. and 0. steamers ought to be labelled poison, 
 and wise the young beginner who hmits his potations to that 
 beverage. The table, too, on the Indian side is decidedly 
 inferior. 'No one seems to look after anything ; and the native 
 " Jemmy Ducks" might be seen of a morning hauling out of 
 the coops a dozen fowls and ducks which had died during 
 the night, while half of those served up at table were saved 
 from death by being killed. The fact is that European 
 energy fails in the task of supervision, under the influ- 
 
32 EASTWARDS, OH 
 
 ence of intense heat, and the natives have it all their own 
 way. 
 
 Having coasted past Mocha, celebrated for its coffee, the 
 steamer fast approached that treeless, burnt-up heap of 
 cinders, Aden ; and all on board longed for a run on shore. 
 Most of the gentlemen went to see the cantonments, which 
 lie in the crater of an extinct volcano, and are well guarded 
 from Arab incursions by its natural walls of rock. Hampton 
 and the other young men had here their first look at a real 
 live Sepoy, part of the garrison being from Bombay ; and the 
 former had also his first ride on a camel, which Albert Smith, 
 we think, describes as being like sitting in a chair on the top 
 of a hansom cab, on a bad road : his first attempt at mounting 
 nearly broke his neck, for the brute rose suddenl}^, and he cut 
 a somersault backwards. Cadets, however, have seven lives, 
 and he escaped unhurt. 
 
 Aden is only interesting from its novelty and extreme ugli- 
 ness, to which add clouds of insidious coal dust, and a burning 
 sun, to render its charms complete. The Soomalies who come 
 on board to sell coral and ostrich feathers, are certainl}^ 
 amusing for a time, as are also the divers who pick up six- 
 pences ; but the most welcome sound to the travellers is the 
 order to " up anchor and away," from such a miserable place. 
 
 Eleven days of monotonous progress took the Colombo 
 into the romantic harbour of Point de Galle. 
 
 Here was a contrast to the scene they had left behind 
 them. Graceful cocoa palms bend their plumes over the sea, 
 
REALITIES or INDIAJ^ LIFE. 33 
 
 every crevice in tlie rocks of the old Dutch fort grows some- 
 thing green ; while on the other side of the bay the thickly 
 wooded hills rise higher and higher as they trend towards 
 the interior. At Aden it seldom rains ; at Galle 'tis said they 
 have one shower at least a day, and although not healthy, it 
 is a sweetly romantic and picturesque spot. Here Hampton 
 wrote his second letter, which we transcribe for the benefit 
 of our readers : 
 
 •'' PoixT DE Galle, Ceylon ; 
 
 January ord, IS — . 
 
 " My deae Jack, — My letter from Malta must have reached 
 you long ere this, and made you acquainted with my progress 
 Eastwards. We had very fine weather all the way to Alex- 
 andria, and I have nothing very striking to relate of that por- 
 tion of my journey. Where do you think we found all the socks 
 which had been purloined ? Why, under the wash-hand stand, 
 where they were rolled into a rat's nest, and nearly chewed to 
 pieces. Binkey served the rat out rather cleverly one morn- 
 ing. He felt something running or dancing on the top of his 
 sheet, looked quietly up, and balancing his foot neatly kicked 
 Mr. Rat out of the port. Peace to his manes ! 
 
 " That fellow in the Queen's has been giving me all sorts of 
 advice about India. He says an ensign can live very well on his 
 Indian pay, if he does not ape his seniors, and try to keep 
 horses and dogs, and go a-head. I'll be able to judge shortly 
 how far this is correct. Alexandria looks very picturesque from 
 
 3 
 
^4 EASTWAR-DS, OR 
 
 the sea, but it is a wretched place when you leave the principal 
 streets. Ail the lower classes, to speak a la Munchausen, 
 have one eye (not in the middle of their forehead though). 
 This is from ophthalmia, and a wretched sight it is, punning 
 apart, to see the flies settling on a recent case. Mem. Bad place 
 to send stereoscopes to. The flies in Egypt are perfectly re- 
 gardless of *eZ/! You may kill them by fifties, they don't care. 
 They only want some o1 you. I bought such a stunning fez 
 for a smoking cap in a baazar, from an old image with a 
 beard (of course, through an interpreter). I think he spat on 
 the ground after he took the money. I wanted to know from 
 the commissionaire, if he had done so, but that w^orthy was 
 suddenly very deaf, and hustled me out of the place. Every 
 look of a Turk is concentrated essence of insolence. Found 
 my sister at one of the hotels, she looks older and more 
 womanly already. It rained for hours in torrents, and some 
 of the passengers who went sight seeing were thoroughly 
 drenched. Saw any amount of wild ducks and ibis in the 
 swamp skirting the railway, would have given something for 
 a day's shooting. We had such a lark at Cairo, couldn't get 
 bedrooms, and drove wildly through the streets half the night. 
 Off to see the Pyramids next morning. They are certainly 
 stupendous. Went on donkeys with some other fellows, rode 
 one called Eclipse, such a brute. He lay down with me twice 
 and tried to roll, but I was too quick for him. Coming home 
 beat them all in a race. 
 
 " Had to go to Suez in vans, rail not being finished, terribly 
 
EEALITIES OF IXDIA^r LIPE. 35 
 
 cramping work. We were all glad to get on board the Indian 
 steamer. Had a jolly row going down the Red Sea. It hap- 
 pened thus : One of the cadets would go up to the fore top. 
 While enjoying the view there, the chief mate saw him, gave 
 the wink to the lascars, and after a fearful struggle, in which 
 one man was nearly kicked overboard, some eight of them tied 
 him to the rigging. Most of the military officers were highly 
 indignant at niggers being sent to tie up a white man, and 
 when the lascars came down a general onslaught was made. 
 To see fat little Major Smith, pitching into a thin lascar, all to 
 himself, was delicious. Matters, however, were rendered 
 serious by a mercantile traveller on board firing his revolver 
 either at or in the direction of a man in the rigging. All the 
 stewards and European quartermasters mustered immediately 
 in the waist ; and in a little time there must have been a regu- 
 lar disturbance, but the captain put a stop to it by ordering 
 young Jones's release. He came down, black as a sweep from 
 the soot, and his paroxysms of rage, in connection with his 
 begrimed face, were too much for any one's gravity. He was 
 nicknamed Othello for the rest of the voyage. Found the 
 benefit the other day for having studied under Herr Schacht. 
 Injured my watch in some way, and discovered a second class 
 passenger, a German, who could repair it. He was dehghted 
 to have some one who could talk Deufscli with him. 
 
 " We had great fun in the Red Sea on Christmas day. 
 Dancing, and all kinds of games. You should have seen an 
 admirer of Laura's, a little Frenchman, with his head cocked 
 
36 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 on one side, executing a regular jj«5 de ballet in the quadrilles. 
 A galvanised frog would have been astonished at his feats 
 of agilit}^ I am afraid he was very "much disguised" at 
 last, for he was found weeping piteously at the foot of the 
 funnel, at some ' malheur terrible ' which had happened to him, 
 I danced with Fanny Danvers once, and took the oppor- 
 tunity of telling her that perfidy and woman were synony- 
 mous terms (this was after a lot of punch), and that I 
 considered the Civil Service as the refuge of the ugliest men 
 in England. We are nearly dead cuts now, and I hope the 
 stinging of a remorseful conscience may harrow her soul, 
 as the sensation novels say. By the bye, I nearly forgot to 
 tell you that one of the newly-married couples, an indigo 
 planter and his wife, fell into the Red Sea at Aden. As 
 they were getting out of the boat which took them on 
 shore, the Soomali boatman who held the bows of the rickety 
 machine suddenly let go, and they were both pitched into 
 the water. It was a sight to see the affectionate husband 
 lift up his dripping wife, and carry her on shore. Haven't 
 spoken a word to Fanny Danvers since Christmas day. She 
 has completely fascinated that young civilian I wrote you 
 about. He is ugly as sin, and such a muff! I have ne- 
 glected to mention one great excitement which took place 
 before v»'e landed at Alexandria. It was on the occasion of the 
 winning the lottery which is usually got up about the hour of 
 arrival. The last few probable hours of dropping anchor are 
 divided into quarters, or less, the lucky holder of the ticket 
 
EEALITIES OF II^'DIATs^ LIFE. 37 
 
 specifying the exact time, winning the money. In this in- 
 stance the sum was fifty pounds, and was won by a cadet. 
 He is always betting, and will turn out a gambler or I'm 
 mistaken. He bought the winning ticket from Binkey for 
 fifteen shillings. "VYe shall have another at the Sandheads. 
 Hope I may win. The place I write from is charmingly ro- 
 mantic. Picture a tiny land-locked bay, water a deep blue, 
 heaving in long smooth swells, till it breaks on the low 
 sand}^ shore, which is clothed down to the very edge with 
 the graceful cocoa-nut palm. On the left the storm-beaten 
 rocks of the old Dutch forts challenge the breakers to come 
 on ; and they do come, and are thrown up in snowy fragments 
 into the air, sometimes even in calm weather, some twenty 
 feet high. On. the other side, steep and rugged rocks rise 
 straight out of the sea, looking frowning and dangerous. Dot 
 a dozen craft of all sizes here and there in the foreground, 
 and you have the picturesque harbour of G-alle. But you can 
 not paint the constant roar, or the dashing spray, or the 
 waves rolling to the foot of the pahns, which bend over them 
 lovingty. 
 
 " In haste, yours affectionately, 
 
 "Hampton Templemoee. 
 
 " P.S. — You should see my gold chain, which cost one 
 rupee (two shillings). Everyone on board bought them. Of 
 course they are not gold, but they do to hang keys on." 
 
38 EAST-WAEDS, OR 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 MADRAS ROADS — ^CALCL'TTA. 
 
 Bepore the passengers landed at Gralle, to spend the 
 hours of their stay, quite a scene had been got up in honour of 
 the French Commandant, who, with Monsieur le Baron, 
 here disembarked to join the China steamer. Everyone 
 mustered at the gangway. " Vive I'Empereur !" and " Success 
 to the Commandant!" was given by the gallant Major Mac- 
 speechy, three hearty cheers made the air ring again, and the 
 silence that followed was sweetly broken by a hundred voices 
 joining in " Partant pour la Syrie." The effect was most 
 impressive. The brave old soldier and his companion, deeply 
 moved, stood hand on heart, and bowed their acknowledg- 
 ments ; while the French docteur, and a French broker on 
 board, rushed upon them and kissed them frantically. This 
 rather spoiled the scene in English eyes ; but on the whole the 
 parting complim.ent was a pretty one, and was duly appreci- 
 ated by our Grallic friends, and their countrymen on board. 
 
 The "Hons" at Galle are, a place called "Wauk Wallah," 
 on the top of a hill, some four miles inland, and the Cinnamon 
 Gardens. The former is a good specimen of tropical scenery, 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIA>" LIFE. 39 
 
 being iu the centre of wooded mountains, with a view of a 
 valley through which a river winds sluggishly along ; but the 
 journey, from the steamer's limited stay, has generally 
 to be performed in the heat of the sun, which renders the 
 admiration of scenery rather a warm task. The Cinnamon 
 Gardens have no special attraction. Mrs. Chantney and 
 Laura preferred, therefore, being cool and comfortable in the 
 hotel, and soon had a host of Cingalese round them, offering 
 their different wares for sale. Here is a cat's-eye stone, worth 
 two hundred pounds, and as big as a pigeon's egg ; or perhaps 
 they would like a sapphire, of which there were plenty, varying 
 from one to fifty pounds in price. The gold work of Trichi- 
 nopoly was temptingly displayed before them, mixed up with 
 beautiful tortoise-shell work-boxes, bracelets, combs, and 
 fifty other articles. Papers full of small pearls, cinnamon 
 stones, Ceylon diamonds, moon stones, &c., could be bought 
 for a mere trifle ; and how they sold the Trichinopoly chains, 
 looking exactly like gold, for two or three shillings, is a 
 marvel. Laura was fascinated by a pair of exquisite fillagree 
 bracelets in gold, set with small but brilliant rubies, and after 
 a little bargaining Mrs. Chantney secured them for only 
 eight pounds. Judges of precious stones can here buy jewellery 
 astonishingly cheap, but woe to those who know not the wares 
 of Birmingham, for it is a fact that some hundred pounds 
 worth of counterfeit trash is shipped monthly to this place. 
 A nice sapphire can be bought for ten pounds ; and pearls 
 about half the size of a pea, are worth five shillings each. 
 
40 EASTWAEDS, OE 
 
 After some twelve hours, the signal gun warned all stragglers 
 to wend their way on board ; and 'mid a smart squall of wind 
 and rain, our voyagers steamed their way out of the romantic 
 hut dangerous harbour of Gaile. 
 
 Four days more and Laura would lose Mrs. Chantney. Her 
 thoughts now turned to her uncle, and the reception she would 
 meet at Calcutta. Would Mrs. Templemore be as kind as 
 her aunts in Cheltenham had been ? Would she be pleased 
 with her, who had been brought up so simply ? These and 
 kindred thoughts made her more and more anxious as she 
 approached her journey's end. Hampton cheered her up 
 every now and then, by saying she would have him to take 
 care of her ; and when he was settled with his regiment, she 
 might live with him if she preferred it. But she could not 
 help having her forebodings, and. felt miserable when the 
 anchor dropped at Madras, and she had to say good bye to 
 Mrs. Chantney, whose kindness throughout the journey she 
 had thoroughly appreciated, "I shall hear of your marriage 
 to some Grandee, soon," said that lady, "and I shall never 
 iorgive you, if you do not write to me all about it. Good 
 bye," she said, with more emotion than Laura fancied her 
 capable of showing, " I have a strong affection for you, and 
 my parting warning is, never marry for wealth or position 
 alone." 
 
 A party of Madras friends here interposed, she and her 
 husband went through that truly gymnastic feat, getting into 
 a Masoolah boat, and Laura strained her eyes watching them, 
 
'EEALITIES OF IXDIA^ LIFE. 41 
 
 till they were hidden b}^ the big rollers which dash their 
 snowy spray on that surf-beaten shore. 
 
 The little French docteur also landed. Poor little fellow, 
 he was quite overcome. He came to say adieu. 
 
 " See," he said, " I have painted a likeness of you. I shall 
 wear it next my heart. Accept this little souvenir ('twas the 
 book of poems), and when you are happy in other scenes, 
 think sometimes of the poor desolate Achille Moran.'' 
 
 He rushed awa}^, sprang too hastily into the Masoolah boat 
 (which was very large and deep), was caught by a thwart, and 
 the last Laura saw of him, as a heav}^ swell swept the boat 
 away, was the poor little docteur's heels stuck up in the air. 
 As she sat pensively looking over the side, she heard a voice 
 behind her say ('twas Captain Desmond), " You seem to feel 
 Mrs. Chantney's loss very much. Miss Templemore. You 
 ought not to give way to grief, but think of the gay scenes 
 awaiting a'ou in Calcutta ; I am only afraid that those who 
 have had the pleasure of your society on board, will not be 
 able to vie with the high and mighty ones you will meet there. 
 I trust, however, you will not totally forget us when you land." 
 
 Laura was glad to hear any sympathising voice, and spoke 
 more kindly to him than she was wont, and be was more con- 
 stantly by her side. 
 
 Hampton was delighted with the novelties around him. 
 " Look here," he said, " Laura, there's a catamaran with ever 
 so many queer looking fish in a basket ; that fellow must 
 have a nice idea of balancing to be able to poise himself on 
 
42 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 those two logs ; and, by Jove, there's a lot of plantains 
 and other strange lookmg Indian fruit. I must go and get 
 some." 
 
 Had it not been for the heat, the constant rolling motion 
 (the chronic disease of the Madras roacls), and the glare, 
 the different groups on board the steamer at this time 
 would have been highly amusing. Here are half-a-dozen 
 men with enormous turbans, balancing, carefull}^, high- 
 heaped glasses of suspicious looking ices. The look of 
 melancholy on the poor fellows' faces, as they see the coloured 
 delicacy fading gently away, while your lordship will not 
 look round and buy, is liighly ludicrous. Have they any 
 consciences, these ice-men ? If they have, would they allow 
 the thirsty griffs on board to eat half-a-dozen, nay a dozen of 
 their concentrated essence of cramp ? 
 
 A party of snake charmers helped to wile away the weary 
 hours ; and the ladies were enchanted by the beautifully w^orked 
 muslins, some of them embroidered with beetles' wings, for 
 which Madras is famous. 
 
 At last the cargo is landed, some of the gentlemen who 
 have spent the day at the far-famed club on shore, return at 
 the last moment ; the mail arrives, and once more the land is 
 left behind. 
 
 On the fourth evening a blue light suddenly warns the 
 passengers they are in pilot' s-ground. It is answered, and 
 after a, short interval, the graceful pilot brig sweeps alongside, 
 and sends that astonishingly " got up " individual, a Bengal 
 
REALITIES or IXDTA^' LIFE. 43 
 
 Pilot, on board ; and hearts beat high to think that to-morrow 
 the curtain will rise on their first day's Indian experience. 
 To-morrow the husband will clasp the dear wife in his arms, 
 who has been rescued from death, perhaps, by her trip to 
 Europe ; children will meet parents whom they have forgotten ; 
 yes, totally forgotten. To-morrow the engaged one will 
 charm the eyes of her expectant lover. To-morrow will 
 enchanting portraits of lovely maidens be compared with the 
 present originals, and woe, is me, what a demolishing there 
 will be of long cherished fancies. Julia will be found to be 
 short and dumpy, while Hetty's golden hair turns out to be 
 red ! To-morrow will all the batchelorhood of Calcutta, who 
 can slip away from their desks, be on the deck of the steamer, 
 scrutinising the beauties of its fair freight, and may be a 
 marriage or two will there and then be concocted in the 
 brains of some hitherto unconquered swains. 
 
 By daylight the low flat shores of the estuary of the 
 Hooghly are distinctly yisible. They have been often de- 
 scribed in anything but flattering terms, and certainly a more 
 uninteresting, desolate scene, never disappointed expectant 
 traveller. The muddy waters of the river roll down between 
 a vast region of deadly swamps, bearing on their polluted sur- 
 face the constantly recurring dead bodies of the pretendedlj-, 
 but not in this instance certainly, fastidious Hindu. The 
 land seems scarcely above the high tide level, and is one un- 
 broken flat for hundreds of miles, while the large forest trees 
 en the shores having all been cut down, there is nothing for 
 
44 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 the eye to rest on but an endless succession of low brushwood 
 and marsh. It is indeed a horrible spot. 
 
 If you are ever anchored off Sanger of a moonlight night, 
 look over the side of your craft, and wonderingly watch the 
 phosphorescent w^ater, broken into fiery eddies as it swirls 
 past the cable, which is creeping and surging out its acknow- 
 ledgment of the power of the mighty tide. 
 
 See the snake- like Medusae become lighted up as they are 
 twisted about in the lambent flood. Then, with a splash, 
 throw in your hooks, baited with almost anything, and shudder 
 as you hear the monster sharks come rippling up to see what 
 is astir, leaving long streams of light behind them. Ugh ! 
 it makes one's flesh creep to think of falling overboard in 
 such a place. liarken to the jackal's mournful scream as it 
 is wafted faintly from the shore ; know that on all sides the 
 low marshy forests breed the deadly fever, which, borne on 
 the dew-laden night wind, may haply be laying its clammy 
 hands on you, and then, like Mark Tapley in Eden, 
 acknowledge that it is creditable to be jolly in such a 
 place. 
 
 The banks of the river gradually become more interesting 
 as Calcutta is approached ; but when it is borne in mind 
 that that badly chosen capital is only eight feet above ordinary 
 flood tides, it will easily be understood that the adjacent 
 country, which is still lower, cannot have many charms. In 
 fact, it is only the strip of wooded villages on either side of 
 the river which hides the deformities lying behind, giving 
 
EEALiTiES or ixdta:?^ life. 45 
 
 that picturesque look to the banks so much admired by the 
 enthusiastic but uninitiated voyager. 
 
 The kst vista off Garden Eeach reveahng the mass of 
 shipping, strange native craft, and white-washed houses of 
 the aristocratic quarter of the town is decidedly fine, espe- 
 cially when seen on a bright cold-weather day. 
 
 Now comes the excitement of landing. The telegraph 
 and the heavy gun from the fort have warned all Calcutta 
 that the steamer has passed a place called Atchipore, and 
 expectant friends and relatives hurry down to the Grhants or 
 landing-places, and secure Bhauliahs and dingies to take them 
 on board, before the anchor is fairly down. 
 
 " I wonder which is uncle Greorge," said Hampton to his 
 sister, as they watched the little fleet struggling up against 
 the tide. " How anxious I feel. I wonder if he is like what 
 papa was." 
 
 Laura hoped that the tall, stout gentleman in that gay, 
 well-manned, green painted boat may be he ; and true enough 
 it is. 
 
 "Templemore? Oh, yes, there they are," said somebody, 
 and suddenly Laura was in the embrace of her uncle. 
 
 " Well, Hampton, my boy," he said cheerily. " Why 
 whi.t a great fellow you are! Six feet, or I'm mistaken. 
 And, bless me, how like your poor father. Had a pleasant 
 voyage? Haven't given your heart into anyone's keeping, 
 Laura, have you ? No, that's right. We must keep Ihat 
 article labelled ' fresh as imported,' yet awhile. Come along, 
 
46 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 I'll take you on shore at once, and leave a cliuprassee (orderly) 
 to look after your things. Your aunt is in the garry (carriage) 
 waiting for you." 
 
 A few strokes of the oars, a jump on shore, Laura steps 
 into a handsome barouche, and is welcomed by Mrs. Temple- 
 more, who then shook Hampton by the hand in a cold and 
 languid way, complained of being kept so long in the sun, 
 and made a sign to th-e gaily dressed syces to tell the coach- 
 man to drive home. 
 
 The mettled Arabs sprung to the whip, and they were 
 soon rolling along towards one of the suburbs, in which 
 George Templemore resided. His present appointment was 
 in connection with the district surrounding Calcutta, called 
 " The Twenty-four Pergunnahs," and he might almost be 
 considered a resident of the town, although a district 
 official. 
 
 Laura had time to notice that her aunt was a pale, delicate 
 woman, who had once been pretty, and doubtless thought 
 herself so now. She was dressed in that light semi-French 
 toilet peculiar to the rich of India, and everything she wore 
 was superbly good and elegant. She scrutinised the new 
 comers, and on the whole seemed rather satisfied. 
 
 " We must get you some nice light things suited to the 
 climate," she said, to Laura, "and you must lose that horrid 
 sunburnt colour before I take you to Government House." 
 
 She seemed to look upon Hampton, and all cadets, as 
 something to be endured, and that young gentleman grew as 
 
SEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 47 
 
 nice a little crop of dislikes to her, on the spot, as any 
 malicious fairy could have wished. 
 
 "Fancy her confounding me with such fellows as that 
 vulgar little snoh, Binkey," he said to Laura, afterwards, 
 " she is a mass of affectation, and, hang me, if I like her." 
 
 They v^^ere not long in driving through the handsome en- 
 trance gates of Laura's future home, and as it was similar to 
 most of the houses of the same class, near Calcutta, we shall 
 describe it. 
 
 As the visitor left the dusty road and swept past the lodges 
 at the gate, his eye was first caught by the glassy waters of 
 a square tank, about a couple of acres in extent. Beyond 
 this, a magnificent banyan tree was the most conspicuous 
 object. Then there were three or four snow-white, diminutive 
 native cows, with a dozen beautifully-marked (Jumna Paree) 
 goats, feeding on the twenty or thirty acres of closely cropped 
 grass. Here and there clumps of bamboos threw up their 
 feathery stems, while the thick dark green mango vied in 
 beauty with the teak, sisso, and other forest trees dotted about. 
 Plots of flowers filled the foreground of the approach, and 
 here is the house. It is white as alabaster, with green Ve- 
 netian doors and windows. Fluted pillars support noble 
 verandahs on the ground and first floors. A massive portico 
 covers the carriage way. The rooms are thirty or forty feet 
 long and twenty feet high. On the ground floor they are 
 paved with checquered marble. Gilded punkas swing in 
 each room, ornamented with stencilling to agree with the 
 
48 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 walls. Yases, costly furniture, and a statuette or two, 
 complete the luxurious elegance of the rooms. Half a 
 dozen native servants in snow-white robes and coloured 
 girdles, glide bare-foot here and there. The Hooghly, 
 half a mile or more wide, covered with imaginable and un- 
 imaginable native boats, flows swiftly past. Picture this, 
 and you have some idea of the rich civilian's residence in 
 Bengal. 
 
 Laura was enchanted with her own room, into which her 
 aunt led her, and it would have been hard to say which was 
 the prettier, of its kind, the room or its future occupant. It 
 looked out on the river. From its lofty beams hung a green 
 and gold punka. The walls were pure white with a light sten- 
 cilled pattern in green, the cool shining mats were relieved here 
 and there by bright-coloured Mirzapore rugs. The furniture 
 was comparatively scanty, for coolness is the great desidera- 
 tum in an Eastern bedroom, but it was of beautiful design 
 and of solid mahogany. A cheval glass, wardrobe, spring 
 sofa, that peculiarly Indian institution a snow-white musquito 
 tent, enclosing within its transparent walls an elegantly-shaped 
 sleeping couch, a few bright green bows of ribbon here and 
 there, a vase or two of flowers, two native women in their 
 graceful garb, ready to answer the faintest call, and our descrip- 
 tion is con:iplete. 
 
 Hampton reported himself next morning to the proper 
 officials, and was duly allotted quarters in the fort, which 
 said quarters consisted of two rooms opening, as did some 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 49 
 
 fifty others, out of a broad corridor, running through the 
 cadets' barrack. 
 
 The contrast between his uncle*s beautiful country house 
 and his bare, shabby chambers, struck him rather forcibly, 
 and led him to meditate on the different points of view, which 
 life may be contemplated from, and to wish that he had 
 studied hard enough for the Artillery or Engineers. I will 
 work well now, he thought, and why should I not achieve 
 what others have ? That day made a wonderful change in 
 our hero and influenced his future as much as the journey 
 out did that of his sister. He was more and more surprised 
 to see the boyish and unthinking pranks, played by some of 
 the youngsters domiciled with him, and his thoughts recurred 
 to his friend on board, who had warned him as to the opinion 
 generally held of cadets. 
 
 There is no doubt that at the time we write of (and pro- 
 bably it is so now), Calcutta was, without exception, the worst 
 city in the world to let inexperienced boys loose in, and it 
 would have been well if Government had long ago devised 
 some means to keep their young protoges amused and em- 
 ployed. Amusement there is none in the City of Palaces, 
 the rich European and Eurasian community being too small 
 to keep up any places of public resort, and in fact the climate 
 for eight months is so oppressive, that no one cares to go out 
 oftener than can be avoided. To sit out theatrical entertain- 
 ments in which the dripping actors are only one shade more 
 pitiable than the parboiled audience, is a feat only attempted 
 
 4 
 
50 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 b}^ the uninitiated. And when it turns out that the evapor- 
 ation of vital moisture, has been replaced behind the scenes 
 by champagne during the last two acts, the result may be 
 imagined. A beautiful theatre was built some twenty-five 
 years ago, an English company was imported, and every one 
 got up an enthusiasm, but it only lasted some two or three 
 years. Death and drink finished many of the actors, 
 and the respectable portion of the audience gradually melted 
 away. 
 
 Dinner parties are given in the hot weather, but they 
 break up early, and are looked on as unavoidable inflic- 
 tions. 
 
 The private billiard tables of particular regiments, and 
 those at the two great clubs are practically shut to the young 
 beginner, and the racket court and cricket club, are in the 
 same category, from the expense attendant on them. Of 
 course the new arrivals from England are under military dis- 
 cipline whilst in barracks, and are so far kept in check, but 
 they have no means afforded them of wiling away pleasantly 
 the tedious hours of an Indian day or night, and the result is 
 that out of barracks, they are to be found in the town, in 
 which the billiard rooms are disreputable, and where, besides 
 billiard rooms, there is not a place in which a young man can 
 find amusement. During the cold months certainly, a strol- 
 ling company of niggers, a concert singer, or a circus may 
 make their appearance, but they are generally fifteenth rate, 
 and you cannot go every night to hear the same thing. 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 51 
 
 Add to this doleful state of matters the temptation to drink 
 from the great heat, the want of any small parties or reunions, 
 where the young men might spend an evening among ladies, 
 and then wonder that they turn out so well as they do. To 
 those who have no friends or relatives the situation is. of 
 course, worse. No one warns them against the deadty effects of 
 shooting in the sun, late hours, and to get the steam up, 
 the consequent peg (brandy and water) in the morning. The 
 result is, that a boy's constitution gets a severe shake before 
 he has been a year in the country. We may have Utopian 
 ideas on the subject, but we think that a club for cadets, 
 under proper supervision, supported principally by Govern- 
 ment, with a gymnasium, racket court, library, reading and 
 billiard rooms, &c., might have been instituted with the best 
 results. As Hampton Templemore's promised letter to his 
 friend in Cheltenham illustrates the subject we have been 
 writing on, we here give it. 
 
 " Fort William, Calcutta ; 
 
 January, 185 — . 
 " Mt deae Jack, — I now fulfil the promise I made in my 
 Cej'lon letter, — Light breezes and a summer sea prevailed all 
 the way from Galle to Madras, at which place we left our 
 friends, Mr. and Mrs. Chantney. Whoever first conceived 
 Madras must have had queer notions of a safe anchorage, 
 and of a site for a capital. A tremendous current runs past 
 the place, and the surf beats more or less on the beach, ac- 
 
52 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 cording to the humour it may be in — nothing but the Mas- 
 soolah boats and the catamarans can Hve in it. The former 
 are large and curiously- shaped (very like the last new life 
 boats ; by the bye, whose was the first idea, eh ?), not nailed 
 together, but sewn with rattan, and they leak like sieves ; 
 but they are elastic. One of them rose to a sea, dashed 
 against the bottom of our gangway ladder, had a thwart 
 bodily torn out, and was not a bit the worse. An English boat 
 would have been in two pieces. The catamarans are two light 
 logs, lashed together, and pointed at one end ; they are always 
 under water a little, and the feet of the men on board are 
 like a washerwoman's hands, from being constantly wet. 
 I wonder the sharks don't stop the catamaran business— they 
 say that there are lots in the surf (ground ones), and that a 
 white man is lost if he is in the water any time. A little 
 Frenchman we had on board had such a spill into a Massoolah 
 boat ; he jumped down at the wrong time — the boat jumped 
 up — they met — and the next moment nothing was to be seen 
 but a pair of heels in the air. Would you believe it ? the 
 sporting cadet bought the lucky ticket, and won the lottery 
 again — I mean the one at the Sandheads. The entrance to 
 the Hooghly is very disappointing, as every one knows. The 
 scenery is better nearer Calcutta, and the first view of the 
 town is very fine. I am now in the Cadets' Barracks. I 
 could have lived at my uncle's for some time, but I prefer 
 being independent. He has a beautiful place up the river. 
 They call it cold weather just now, but at mid-day it is very 
 
EEALiTiES or i>'dia:s life. 53 
 
 hot. Some of my chums have been out snipe shootmg in the 
 salt lakes, and two of them are already laid up with fever. 
 There has been a tenible fracas amongst the cadets, in which, 
 thank goodness, I had no hand. One young fool quarrelled 
 with another — called him out. They had only one pistol — 
 this they loaded with nails, went on the flat roof of the 
 barracks, cast lots for the weapon, and the one wdio got it, 
 shot the other in the leg — literally nailed him. They were 
 both nearly cashiered, but they got off on account of their 
 youth, and the fairness displayed in their ridiculous duel. I 
 am determined not to associate with any fellow who acts like 
 a schoolboy, and am therefore rather disliked. The quantity 
 of Pariah dogs, with clipped ears and tails, that have been 
 bought by the griffs as terriers, w^ould form a pack. Of 
 course the moment they are taken outside the fort and set on 
 anything, they bolt the other way, and are soon with their old 
 masters the mehters ; so w^e shall get rid of them in time. 
 
 " Talking of dogs, I was witness yesterday of the most ex- 
 traordinary ' dodge ' for catching jackals that can possibly be 
 imagined. A native Shikaree (hunter), who supplies the 
 Tiretta Bazaar here with live animals, which he sells to the 
 numerous dog-keeping community, offered to take a young 
 fellow 1 know, who is in a merchant's office in the town, to 
 the scene of action, and I was asked to accompan}^ them. 
 Before day-break we met at the river side — crossed over to a 
 place called Howrah, and walked smartl}^ on for about two 
 miles, till we came to a likely spot. This was a glade in a 
 
54 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 thickly wooded part of one of the numerous villages which 
 line the Hooghly's banks. Our guide ensconced young Burton 
 and myself behind some bushes on one side of this glade, and 
 commenced operations. 
 
 "The actors were the man and a little boy armed with a short 
 stick. The former began by covering about half an acre of 
 the field thickly over with tough nooses, pegged tightly into 
 the ground. This done, he went into ambush with his assist- 
 ant, and present^ we heard the most extraordinary scuffling 
 noise, as if an old dry hide was being knocked about, while 
 lugubrious and heart-rending cries, as if from some billy-goat 
 who was being led to the slaughter or otherwise most shame- 
 fully illtreated, rent the air. This lasted a minute or so, and 
 we strained our eyes to see what would come next. Burton 
 gave me an awful pinch on the arm, which I forgave when I 
 saw his reason for inflicting it. There, on the opposite side of 
 the vista, was a fine large male jackal, peeping out with cocked 
 ears, and evidently wondering what goat was being massacred, 
 by whom, and why should not he share, &c. He looked round 
 — 'All right — there's nobody in sight, I'll just slink over to 
 the side the noise comes from.' Stealthily, with tail down, he 
 glides over. Hurrah ! he's in the middle of the snares and 
 tumbling head over heels. Quick as the leopard in his spring, 
 out jumps the little boy, bang ! crack ! the jackal has two 
 sounding taps on the back of his head. Out whipcord, tie 
 up his mouth, ditto his four legs, shoulder arms, and number 
 one is bagged as quickly and quietly as you please. We re- 
 
REALITIES OF liN'DIAX LIFE. OD 
 
 peated this half a dozen times and ended in having three old 
 jackals and a cub. The implements of the shikaree's trade on 
 this occasion (for they have a hundred other manoeuvres) were 
 an old goat skin, and something which he put in his mouth 
 when he imitated the dying goat. 
 
 " Another cashiering business nearly came off about a week 
 ago, A party of youngsters from the Fort got into a disre- 
 putable row with some sailors in a low part of the town ; the 
 whole of them were put into Chokey (the police-station), and 
 it was only from the consideration of the magistrate that they 
 were let off so easily. I hear that I am likely to be posted to 
 a regiment at Allahabad, and glad shall I be when I get out 
 of this place. Fort William is healthy enough, but one of the 
 guard houses at the Water Gate is notoriously bad, eleven 
 men out of the Sepoy guard were struck down by cholera, one 
 night, last hot weather. If young officers expose themselves 
 unnecessarily in the sun, keep late hours, drink and smoke too 
 much, what shall I say of the poor European soldiers. Unedu- 
 cated, without a single aid to keep them amused or employed 
 they lie drunk and helpless about the bazaars, and are the 
 scorn of every passing native. It is disgraceful the way they 
 are neglected. They may be ' such desperate scoundrels,' as 
 a Queen's officer called them, the other day to me, but I don't 
 believe it, and they are the holders of this empire. If every 
 European soldier were treated like a gentleman, housed and 
 fed properly, and engaged to serve only for seven years, I 
 verily believe it would be cheaper in the end than the present 
 
5(J EASTWAEDS, OE " 
 
 system is. Regiments think nothing of losing ten or fifteen 
 per cent, the first year. 
 
 " My uncle George says that the amount of injury done to 
 our rule by the scandalous conduct of the lower classes of 
 Europeans is barely balanced by the knowledge the natives 
 have gained, of their indomitable pluck. 
 
 " I have been round the suburbs lately on horseback. Such 
 a dreadful conglomeration of muddy swamps, filthy native 
 villages, picturesque tanks, temples, and gaudily ornamented 
 houses, can hardly be conceived. Were the natives not vege- 
 tarians, the refuse from their houses would render their vil- 
 lages uninhabitable, but as it is, when the cholera does break 
 out they are swept away in hundreds. Only a mile or less from 
 the aristocratic quarter of the town, and that on the side from 
 which the South-east monsoon blows, the land shelves down to 
 a level with horrible low salt swamps, which extend for hun- 
 dreds of miles, east and west. How Calcutta is as healthy as 
 it is, is wonderful. It must proceed from the height at which 
 Europeans sleep from the ground, and from the marshes at 
 the back of it being salt, and under the influence of heavy 
 tides. Were they composed of stagnant fresh water, Calcutta 
 would be untenable. I must now close this letter. I trust 
 that the next mail will bring me one from you, with all the 
 Cheltenham news, and with kindest regards, 
 
 " I am, yours affectionately, 
 
 *' HAMPTOIf TeMPLEMOEE." 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 57 
 
 CHAPTEE IV. 
 
 HOME. 
 
 Mrs. Templemore's mansion was a favorite resort of the 
 civil and militar}'- loungers of Calcutta, and the two great 
 military stations of Barrackpore and Dumdum. The fame of 
 Laura's beauty added, of course, to the stream of visitors, and 
 her aunt was enchanted at the eclat created by her arrival. 
 One day, as they were sitting working some elegant trifles, 
 the noise of buggy-wheels announced a visitor, whose card 
 was brought in by the attendant chuprassee. The room was 
 very much darkened, or Mrs. Templemore would have noticed 
 a slight flush on Laura's face when she replied to her inquiry, 
 as to whether she knew the gentleman. 
 
 " Oh yes, — Captain Desmond. He came out with us." 
 Before she could say more he was ushered in. Mrs. Tem- 
 plemore was charmed with her visitor, and her practised eye 
 soon saw that he admired Laura. Oh, oh, she thought after 
 he left, here is conquest number one, and I am very glad of 
 it, for my own girls will be coming to India in two years, and 
 I cannot afford to have them cut out by this pretty niece of 
 mine. 
 
58 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 " How do you like him, Laura ? " she said. 
 " Oh, veiy well, but—" 
 
 "But what ? He is handsome, accomplished, and will soon 
 be a major. I begin to think you are very fastidious." 
 
 This was said in a very sharp, heartless way, and Laura felfc 
 that her trials had commenced. Her mother would not have 
 talked to her so. The tears came to her eyes but she strug- 
 gled hard, and replied pretty firmly that she did not hke his 
 manner to ladies. " He speaks so confidently, and then he 
 flirted with a young lady on board, Miss Browning, to whom 
 I have taken a disHke." 
 
 " Oh, is that all ; a little jealousy, I see. You'll get over 
 that by and bye, when you have seen more of him. I shall 
 ask him to dinner next week." 
 
 That evening Mrs. Templemore took Laura to the Eotten 
 Row of Calcutta, called the Strand, on the banks of the river. 
 To the new comer the concourse of vehicles, some of them con- 
 taining gorgeously dressed natives, the fleet of first-class ships, 
 picturesquely dispersed over the broad surface of the Hooghly, 
 the massive fort, the pleasure grounds, named the garden of 
 Eden, from having been planted by Lord Auckland's sisters, 
 and the semicircle of palatial buildings in the back ground, 
 make up a charming picture. "When bright moonhght and 
 sweet music are added to the scene, it is no wonder that the 
 soft whisperings of love, or maybe, flattery, seem doubly irre- 
 sistible to the fair inmates of the carriages, gathered in groups 
 round the band, to whom all is so like fairy land. 
 
' EEALITIES OF IKDIAIS" LIFE. 59 
 
 Laura pointed out Miss Browning as well as some of her 
 other shipmates. The former was riding a handsome chestnut 
 Arab, and had already gathered a group of followers round her. 
 " So that is your rival, Laura," said her aunt, " she is a 
 handsome woman, but has no chance with you, at least with 
 men like Captain Desmond. See, they are all boys who are 
 riding with her." 
 
 She was right, Desmond did prefer Laura, and had been 
 watching for her carriage for some time. He came up as they 
 stopped at the band. 
 
 *' What think you of Calcutta by moonlight, Miss Temple- 
 more, charming — is it not ? II Balen sounds sweetly mid the 
 din of the native town, and the hum of the tide as it sweeps 
 up this huge river. How does it affect you, to gladness or 
 sorrow ? As for me, I feel alone and miserable in this strange 
 land." 
 
 Laura had been thinking of her English home, and required 
 little to make her share in Captain Desmond's melancholy. 
 
 *' I quite agree wdth you," she said, " in feeling sad, so sad, 
 biut then that is for us women, you know, your role is to mount 
 your milkwhite steed, and attack all griffins, giants, and 
 chimeras dire, which may cross your path, including the demon 
 melancholy," 
 
 He sighed and said no more. Mrse Templemore asked him 
 if he knew many people in town. He said " no, he had called 
 everywhere, but there seemed a want of real sociability." 
 "^Then 1 have just the thing to cure your ennui." Here is • 
 
60 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 one of my friend Mrs. Blandon's invitation cards, which I 
 am at hberty to give to you. It is rather too dark for you to 
 read it just now, but it is to say that her house is open twice a 
 week for all who are in her set ; you will find it the only place 
 in Calcutta where you can pass an evening pleasantly. There 
 is no formality you may come or go when you like, and the 
 society is delightful, I hope to meet you there to-morrow 
 evening." He seemed delighted at the prospect, said "good 
 night," and rode slowl}'- away. 
 
 The ladies fell back in their seats, and in silence the pre- 
 scribed number of rounds of the drive were made, and the 
 usual recognition of friends took place, till the sharp night air 
 and sudden darkness following closely on the short twilight 
 warned them homewards. 
 
 The horses and syces (grooms who run by the carriage) 
 seemed to feel the excitement of a return to their dinners, and 
 to be glad to leave the monotony of the course. The coach- 
 man gave his whip an extra artistical sweep over his horses, 
 and with many a bound and spring the fiery Arabs rattled 
 their light freight up the fine road leading from the river. 
 
 Laura having expressed a strong desire to see the native 
 bazaars, her aunt ordered the coachman to drive through some 
 of them, much to our heroine's gratification and amusement. 
 Everything was bewilderingly strange, and suggestive of the 
 fairy Eastern tales so dearly loved in youth. Night favoured 
 the illusion. The roads were narrow, and studded continu- 
 ously with booths or shops all open in front without door or 
 
REALITIES OF I:N"DIAN' LIFE. 61 
 
 window. The alternations from light to shade were startling, 
 for out of the European portion of the town, the street lamps 
 are few and far between. A sudden glare momentarily revealed 
 a group of figures working at their trade, and then would come 
 an interval of intense darkness. Now a long-continued series 
 of lighted shops makes everything around visible. 
 
 That circle of clean dressed, white coated, and skull capped 
 Mahomedans, is composed of muslin embroiderers ; wonderful 
 is the work they produce, and so cheap. A splendidly worked 
 handkerchief could once be bought for two rupees or four 
 shillings, and every other article of dress in proportion. But 
 prices are now changed. Here is a confectioner's resplendent 
 with coloured lanterns, which show off to perfection the snowy 
 piles of tinsel-covered sweatmeats, or hissing pans filled with 
 the dearly loved (to the native) curly jullaybee like vermi- 
 celli in shape, and composed of flour, butter, sugar, "and spices, 
 or the awfully luscious ludoo, made from curds, sugar, cardi- 
 mums, &c. Look at the display made by his neighbour, the 
 shoemaker, red shoes, with heels, yellow slippers without 
 them, blue or green ones to suit some tastes, uncoloured 
 ones to please others, gold embroidered ones if you like, or 
 silver ditto, you have only to walk in, and you must be 
 satisfied. 
 
 Who is that, sitting monkey like on his board, smoking 
 abstractedly, and gazing on vacancy ? 'Tis the oil vendor, 
 who is patiently waiting for some one to come for half-a- 
 farthing's worth, which he will ladle out with a little scoop, 
 
62 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 made of a dwarf cocoanut shell, while his measure is a piece 
 of the same kind of nut, with a hole in the bottom. This is 
 stopped up with a finger of his left hand, which he will with- 
 draw when it is full, and the liqu'd can be skilfully guided 
 into any receptacle. 
 
 That man, bearded like the pard, is a retainer of some rich 
 !Rajah or Baboo, we mean the one sitting in the armourer's 
 shop, there, chaffering about the price of that murderous look- 
 ing sword : around the booth are hung shields and spears, and 
 all the strange implements of native warfare. 
 
 Now is passed that fascination of all fascinations a cloth 
 shop, or native linendrapers, hung with the bright colours 
 which the native revels in. Chintzes red, and chintzes blue, 
 tastefully relieved by snowy long cloths or striped muslin 
 wares, making the place gay beyond description, and the result 
 you see is a crowd always hanging about the enchanting spot. 
 
 In the next a money changer sits statue-like behind his 
 heaps of gold and silver, beside him a silver hookah shines in 
 the rays of light thrown on it by a quaintly fashioned brazen 
 lamp, resting in. a niclie of the wall, while a faint smoke 
 curls up from its glowing chillum (bowl), scenting the air 
 with incense-like perfume. 
 
 The background is occupied by a massive wooden treasure- 
 chest on low wheels, which opens from the top, and on which 
 at night sleeps either the money-changer himself or some 
 trusty relative. It is a curiously, carved, unwieldy old affair, 
 and is rendered doubly secure (in its master's eyes) by being 
 
EEALITIES OF I^'DIAIN" LIFE. 63 
 
 daubed over with vermilion sketches of some favorite 
 deity, and beautified after a native's ideas of beauty by 
 patches of tinsel stuck on here and there. 
 
 A dismal cave is this abode of Mammon and the imperturb- 
 able Shylock who presides over its shining heaps is a fitting 
 occupant of its mysterious gloom. He never smiles. His 
 profits are generally small, but he is frugal and patient — so 
 patient. His penury extends to his household, and with his 
 own hands he weighs out twice a day v;ith unflinching exact- 
 ness the miserable portion of rice and lentils to his women 
 and children, which forms their dinner and supper. At last, 
 after a long series of years he counts his hoard by the lac 
 (100,000 rupees), and then, instead of a baronetcy, or a villa at 
 Twickenham, or Peers for his sons-in-law, he suddenly be- 
 comes religiously mad, covers himself with sackcloth and 
 ashes, feasts every Brahmin he can induce to come to his 
 entertainments, settles the most of his money on his nearest 
 of kin, and wanders away on some tedious pilgrimage, to 
 be choked to death, perhaps, on the cold bank of some 
 sacred river, or to have his funereal obsequies performed by 
 the vulture and the jackal after he has sunk down to die 
 by some lone jungle-side. This is no exaggeration, and 
 conscience, which maketh cowards of us all, thus drags to 
 his dismal fate the rapacious, cruel, never-relenting usurer 
 of usurers, the Bengalee money-changer. 
 
 Ah ! what have we here ? it must be Alladin's palace in 
 very deed. No ! after all it is only a gold lace and tinsel 
 
64 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 maker's with all his gaudy wares, whirling and shimmering 
 before his cunningly arranged lamps. 
 
 ]N"ext to this gay place, looming through the smoky atmo- 
 sphere, without a light to relieve its gloomy vastness, is a con- 
 vent like pile, a rich native's house, girt round by lofty walls, 
 round which is huddled a nest of squalid huts. 
 
 Now they are in the crush again, and oh dear ! have so 
 nearly run over that woman, who with a little child seated 
 monkey-like on her hips, would waddle across the road. They 
 always do so, just before the horses' noses, these native women. 
 
 As the carriage moves slowly along the eye rests on the 
 painted fukeer prowling about for alms, the sleek, half-naked 
 Hindu, or the patriarchally bearded Mussulman. What a 
 living miscellany ! There goes a long tailed Chinese in his 
 clean nankin shirt and trowsers, followed by a mob of hideous 
 African sailors from the Arab ships. See how gracefully those 
 Hindu women balance their heavy water pots on their heads. 
 They have to thread their way past those bullock carts, which 
 come " wobbling " along rendering the night hideous with 
 their screaming wheels, and nearly stopping up the road. It 
 is a wonder some of them do not drop their precious freight of 
 tank water, in the confusion, but they do not, and disappear 
 down one of the dusty gullies to their mat and mud built 
 huts in the background. 
 
 Samneywallah Beyt (literally, sit down in front there) shout 
 the syces running on each side the horses. Clouds of dust 
 arise. Phew! there's a pungent smell from a drug vendor's, 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 65 
 
 followed by a sweet smell from a perfumer's, then a hundred 
 other smells, some of them overpoweringly bad. Here is a 
 musical procession, the drums and fifes making the horses 
 nearly go mad, while the din is augmented by the gongs of 
 yonder temple. Dust ! smells ! drums ! distraction, who can 
 ever forget thee, oh, Calcutta Bazaar ! 
 
 The road became clearer of obstructions, and the horribly 
 medicated taste of the bazaar air began to subside as they 
 reached the suburbs and were whirled into the clear air on 
 the banks of the river, while the stars shone out brightly, and 
 the young moon's rays showed the snow white mansion of Mr. 
 Templemore in all its beauty. 
 
 Hampton, who is to dine with his uncle to-day, is ready to 
 hand the ladies out of the carriage, and heartily joins in Laura's 
 condemnation of the native town. 
 
 " What nonsense people do get into their heads in England," 
 he sagely remarked, " about orientalism generally." The fact 
 is that Asiatics seem constitutionally wanting in those finer 
 perceptions which lead to the refinements of civilised Euro- 
 pean life. 
 
 As Hampton led his aunt into the house, he informed her 
 that he had secured the week's leave she had suggested to 
 him, and that he was her humble slave to command for that 
 time. Laura was so glad to have him with her for a whole 
 week, and she tripped lightly up to her room, surprising the 
 sedate native ayahs by gallopading the last few steps as she 
 entered it. Neither of the orphans felt at ease with their aunt, 
 
 5 
 
60 EASTWAEDS, OE 
 
 and they instinctively clung to each other and to their uncle, 
 ■who showed his fondness for them, while his wife seemed at 
 the best but lukewarm in her affection, 
 
 "Well Hampton, my boy, how do you like India?" said 
 his uncle as they sat after dinner by themselves. "You have 
 your own way to work up, and if you take my advice you 
 will study hard and pass for interpreter as soon as possible. 
 You know that the money your poor father left has been 
 nearly all expended in j'-our education, and you and Laura have 
 onl}'- about a thousand pounds each left, but this ought to 
 keep you out of debt, and purchase any steps, when you are 
 posted to your regiment." 
 
 Hampton thanked his uncle for all his kindness, said he had 
 made up his mind to follow his good advice as to studying, 
 and made him laugh at some of the doings of the young men 
 in the fort. 
 
 " I wonder how those gaunt, soldier-like Sepoys have any 
 respect at all for the boys put in command over them," said 
 his uncle, " especially when they are as insolent as they can 
 be to the men. I'll tell you what it is, there will be a terrible 
 blow up, some day. The present generation of natives have 
 out-lived the memory of the conquest of Bengal, and, with the 
 usual vanity of Asiatics, think they are, in everything but 
 mechanical genius, the superior of the white man. They are 
 so flir right that, although not so fleshy, the up-country native 
 will compete in athletic exercise with any European. How 
 many of the officers or soldiers you have seen in the fort could 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 67 
 
 wrestle with those lean, wiry, Sepoys ? Perhaps for a spurt 
 the European would be stronger, but in five minutes the won- 
 derful wnid and endurance of the vesjetarian versus the meat- 
 eater would be seen. Fifty out of a hundred of those fellows 
 would get up to-morrow morning, walk their sixty miles, and 
 eat their dinners as usual. And they would do this for a week. 
 Individually, too, I am certain that the men of a Sepoy regi- 
 ment would generally have no objection to meet any European 
 in single combat with swords." 
 
 " Then what are they wanting in ? " asked Hampton. 
 
 "lean hardly describe it," said his uncle; ''but I think 
 it is their want of confidence in each other which makes 
 them fight badly in bodies, and last of all European bravery, 
 which is a total abnegation of self (in which all calculation is 
 thrown asidej a burning madness of the brain, is never reached 
 by the native of India, except, perhaps, when he is drugged, 
 and that, after all, is artificial; while in the white man the 
 phrenzy is instinctive, Grod-given." 
 
 After listening to his uncle's invaluable hints on his future 
 conduct Hampton changed the subject to sporting. George 
 Templemore had been one of the best riders and hog hunters 
 of his day, and Hampton could have listened to him for hours 
 as he recounted his hair breadth escapes. 
 
 " By the bye," said he, " if you would like to see some sport 
 I can give you a letter of introduction to a planter friend of 
 mine, Mr. Besborough, who writes me that they are going to 
 get up a meeting next week." 
 
68 EASTWAllDS, OE 
 
 Hampton eagerly accepted the offer and it was arranged that 
 he should leave for Kishnaghur, by Palankeen Dawk, that day 
 week. They now joined the ladies. Hampton noticed that 
 his sister looked triste, and drawing her into the verandah, 
 asked her the reason. 
 
 "Hampton dear," she said, "you are independent, look at 
 me, when our money is all gone what is my future ; and, do 
 you know, I fear my aunt may persuade me into some mar- 
 riage I do not like." 
 
 Hampton was all indignation. " If she tries to do so," he 
 said, " come to me, we may be poor but we shall at least 
 be independent. Besides, I am sure uncle George will never 
 allow you to be sacrificed to the caprice of his heartless 
 wife." 
 
 Laura felt a little reassured, and they re-entered the draw- 
 ing-room. The conversation now turned on Mrs. Blandon's 
 "at home," and the next Government House Ball and Mrs. 
 Templemore was soon deep in the mysteries of tulle, lace, 
 wreaths, and feathers. 
 
 Early hours are kept in India. Ten o'clock saw the 
 ladies preparing for bed, while Hampton and his uncle 
 had one cigar, before retiring, in the verandah facing the river. 
 
 The cool night air blew refreshingly up its wide expanse. 
 The fires of the native boatmen still flickered here and 
 there, after their late evening meal. The tide rushed in 
 broken eddies past embankment piles, or rippled musically 
 against the bows of the numerous boats anchored in the 
 
EEALITIES OF ITfDIA:?^ LIFE. 69 
 
 stream, breaking up into tiny waves which caught the moon's 
 rays and danced merrily away in long streams of light. The 
 stillness was intense, broken at intervals by some (to Hamp- 
 ton) strange, unwonted sound. That blowing noise is the 
 great river porpoise taking breath, as he rises slowly into air. 
 Those harsh unearthl}'- notes proceed from the eonchs and 
 gongs of one of the legions of temples adjoining. What 
 hideous associations of human sacrifice and wild, mystic demon 
 worship are conjured up by those barbarous strains. 
 
 Now it is the far distant cry, simulating human agony, of the 
 coward jackal, answered at your very feet by some responsive 
 member of the pack. Every dark nook and corner in the back- 
 ground of the moonlit scene is resplendant with brilhant fire- 
 flies, gyrating in sparkling ever-moving columns, or spangled 
 over the brushwood, mimicking in brightness the cloudless 
 heavens above, which are powdered thick with twinkling gems. 
 Solemnly, wonderfully beautiful is the night. This is the 
 witching hour when the prowhng tiger is out on his rounds, 
 and Hampton almost expected to hear its deep gurgling roar 
 break the painful stillness. Ah, what is that ? Only the 
 great vampire (the flying-fox) which falls with a startling 
 crash plump into the midst of yonder mango tree, hanging if 
 you could see it, head downwards, by the hooks in its 
 wings. 
 
 Still they sit and watch till Hampton starts and, seizing his 
 uncle (who is nearly asleep) by the arm, says, '* See how those 
 boats are rearing and plunging in the huge waves which 
 
70 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 have suddenly swept up the river, and look, it has torn that 
 small one from its anchor ! " 
 
 '*It is only the Bore which comes up with the first of the 
 flood," said Mr. Templemore, '* you have seen a moderate one 
 to-night, sometimes it is terrific, and accidents happen daily 
 during the months of March, April, and May. 
 
 " To show the tremendous rapidity of its course, I may tell 
 you that a few years ago, a small party of Europeans and 
 natives gathered on the river bank at Howrah, opposite 
 Calcutta, on the day of the full moon when the Bore is at its 
 height, to watch its advent, at all seasons a most interesting 
 sight. The whole of the native population who gain their 
 living on the river are on the qui vive, and as they see the ebb 
 languidly eddying down to the sea in its last struggle with 
 the flood, they all push their boats into the mid-stream, and 
 then patiently watch for their mysterious visitor. The tide 
 comes to a stand-still, each man balances his oar or paddle 
 ready to strike deep into the water to prevent his bark being 
 turned broadside on, when hark, a distant hum is heard. It 
 comes. Ban Ban (the native name for the Bore) shouts each 
 excited boatman, and ere the words are w^ell spoken the 
 furthest line of boats is tossed as if in a tempest, and like a 
 whirl wdnd it rushes up the river. 
 
 " Well, the party I mentioned were eagerly watching for 
 the denouement and stepped a few feet further out on a 
 bastion or buttress than was prudent. The Bore was one 
 of unusual violence, struck against the barrier presented 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 71 
 
 by the buttress, aud leaping over it, swept half of the spec- 
 tators away."* 
 
 Let all these sights and sounds strike the fresh impression- 
 able mind of youth and admit that an Indian night furnishes 
 plentiful food for the imagination. 
 
 Hampton sat silently thinking, and began to realize how 
 men of high chivalrous temperament might be fascinated by 
 the wonders of that far off land. His reverie was broken by 
 his uncle saying, *' Seems strange to you Hampton, does it 
 not ? We must not sit too long in the night breeze, let us to 
 bed, good night, my boy, good night." 
 
 Next morning at breakfast Mrs. Templemore asked her 
 husband if he knew who Miss Browning could be. " Oh 
 yes!" he said, "that must be a sister of Browning's on the 
 staff. He has a very good appointment." 
 
 " I daresay we shall meet them at Mrs. Blandon's to-night," 
 continued Mrs. Templemore. " By the by Laura, I hope you 
 are clever at charades and those kind of things. There is 
 generally great fun where we are going, and my friend deserves 
 the highest credit for giving such pleasant entertainments. 
 Were her example followed, Calcutta would not be noted as 
 the most dismal place in India to pass an evening in. Heavy 
 dinner parties and balls with their attendant late hours, are not 
 suited to the climate at all. We shall go quite plainly dressed, 
 and I hope to be home at something after eleven o'clock." 
 
 * The Bore or tidal wave comes up the Hooghly with lightning 
 speed, and woe be to the boat caught by it in shoal water. 
 
72 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 At eight o'clock that evening Mrs. Templemore's carriage 
 drove under the portico of Mrs. Blandon's house in Chow- 
 runghee. 
 
 We must now give a short account of the inmates of the 
 house. First there was Mr. Blandon, a tall intellectual man, 
 high up in the service, and very low down in debt, which 
 forced him to remain in India. He was a model of good 
 nature, and never interfered with his wife in her domestic 
 arrano^ements. She was one of those everscreen women that 
 even the hot weather of India cannot conquer, she was not 
 pretty, but you could not be five minutes in her company 
 without being fascinated by her. She brought you out if you 
 could sing, and got you nice partners if you were a dancing 
 man, sympathised deeply in your unfortunate rejection by 
 that flirty Miss Jones, or winked at your sitting ratJier close 
 to pretty Flora Smith in the verandah after that charming 
 waltz. Then she had three daughters. Julia was grave, 
 grecian and romantic. Florence was all smiles and curls and 
 tricks. Edith, the youngest, sang splendidly and was rather 
 plain, but that made her all the more gracious, and the 
 numbers of little modest men, and stout middle aged bachelors, 
 not to count blushing ensigns that she had made happy by 
 volunteering to dance with them would fill a directory. No 
 wonder with such aids Mrs. Blandon's house was so much 
 frequented. 
 
 All three girls came down to receive Mrs. Templemore, 
 and bore her and Laura in triumph' up to the drawing 
 
EEALITIES OF IXDIAIT LIFE. /O 
 
 room, not forgetting to talk all the way up the noble 
 flight of stairs to Mr. Templemore, laughingly engaging him 
 to dance, and then glancing at Hampton in a way that sent 
 that gallant subaltern's heart into a palpitation at once. Mrs. 
 Blandon took Laura under her special protection, and made 
 her sit down' beside her. In the mean time we must try to 
 describe some of the chief people in the room. 
 
 That lady with the black velvet and diamonds is the famous 
 Mrs. Kidnap. Xo one knows when she came out to India, 
 it is so long ago ; and that young man with the eye glass 
 and bushy hair, is her second husband. He went to propose 
 to one of her daughters, and the old lady liked his appearance 
 so much that she married him herself In her day she has 
 been a very handsome woman. That little old man in the 
 corner is General Behoos. He will not go to England, and it 
 is generally believed that, in private, he is a Hindu. That 
 stout important man with the sandy hair and whiskers is — 
 let me say it reverently ! — Montmorency St. John Struggles. 
 He is a civilian, Commissioner of Khosamudpore ; has five 
 lacs in Company's paper ; is a widower and wants a wife ; he 
 has two ideas ; one that the St. John Struggles came down 
 from the planets (the truth being that his grandfather was a 
 ship chandler at Blackwall), and the other that India is a 
 vast hot bed, designed for the cultivation of good things for 
 his illustrious connections. 
 
 " Extension of the civil service," he is fond of saying, " is 
 what we want in order to govern the empire happily. There is 
 
74 EASTWAEDS, OE 
 
 a great deal too much dragooning and soldiering and hectoring 
 going on. Why, my sheristadar, Ramkinker mookerjee, and 
 all m}'- omlah say that since I took charge of Khosamudpore 
 they are so struck with the high intellectual attributes of the 
 white man, that they are half inclined to become Christians. 
 Turn out your soldiers and interloping planters, and India 
 would be a very different place." 
 
 Alack and alas, most potent Struggles, one short year and 
 a storm will burst over your devoted head which will rudely 
 dash your theories in your face. 
 
 The rest of the company consisted of young military men 
 and civilians with a sprinkling of lawyers and merchants. 
 
 Amongst the guests Laura soon espied Mrs. Danvers and 
 her daughter, and also Miss Browning, who seemed to have 
 given up the idea of appropriating Captain Desmond to her- 
 self, and was listening most graciously to old General Behoos, 
 who, much to her apparent gratification, was giving her an 
 account of Ids share in the first Burmese war. 
 
 It was not long before Captain Desmond came up looking 
 radiant and happy at the prospect of spending the evening in 
 our heroine's society. After begging her hand for the first 
 dance, he whispered, *' Do not think that I flatter Miss 
 Templemore, but I must confess that your presence acts as 
 a charm to drive away the demon of melancholy which follows 
 me so perseveringly, and no wonder that such should be the 
 case when you are so fairy-like, so enchanting." And in 
 sober truth she was so. Her beautiful complexion softened 
 
EEALiTiEs or ii«-dia:n' life. 75 
 
 down by even the few days she had been in India, was shown 
 off by her simple dress of white muslin, and her arms and 
 neck looked so plump and white in their English freshness, 
 that even Montmorency Struggles could not suppress his ad- 
 miration. "Splendid girl," he said to Mrs. Blandon, '*Do 
 introduce me." "Mr. Struggles, Miss Templemore." "Ahem, 
 how do you like Calcutta." "Been to Government house 
 yet ? Do you ride ? Shall be happy to let you have one of 
 my Arabs." Here he was interrupted by the merry strains 
 of a waltz, and, much to his chagrin, Laura was claimed by 
 her partner. 
 
 The evening passed away merrily. When music was 
 wanted one of the sisters played. If a rest was required 
 one of them sang. A charade was got up in five minutes, 
 in which Hampton acted so charmingly that the sisters had 
 quite a little fight as to who should pet and praise him 
 most. 
 
 Laura had listened, during the intervals between the dances, 
 so attentively to Mr. Struggles' two ideas that, forthwith, a 
 flame of love sprang up in that great man's breast, uncon- 
 querable and consuming, and visions of Mrs. Struggles No. 2, 
 filled his mind. Fanny Danvers had her young civilian in 
 attendance, and Hampton wasted no more thought upon her. 
 He had already transferred his allegiance to the Misses 
 Blandon, but, as he afterwards confessed to Laura, they were 
 all so fascinating that he could not make up his mind which 
 sister he liked best. Laura laughed heartily at his dilemma, 
 
76 EASTWAEDS, OB 
 
 and advised him to see how he could manage on his pay, 
 before he attempted to think of a wife. 
 
 Mrs. Templemore was about to leave, and Laura had danced 
 her last dance, when Captain Desmond came up and sug- 
 gested that before going out into the air, she should walk a 
 little in the broad verandah leadiuoc from the dancins^ room. 
 He had been so devoted in his attentions, had behaved so 
 differently to her from his general demeanour to women that 
 she almost forgot her dislike to him. 
 
 " Miss Templemore," he said in a low voice, ''Do say that 
 if I try to deserve it you will treat me with less indifference 
 than you have hitherto shewn. My regiment is ordered 
 away up country, I shall only have a few days more of your 
 society, but I shall go willingly if you will onl}'' say to me 
 ' Hope.' " 
 
 Laura trembled at this, to her, unwonted language, and, 
 had she been a flirt, would have led him on ; but she resisted 
 any little temptations to do so which might have been 
 prompted by her woman's nature, and replied, "I am but a 
 young and inexperienced girl. Captain Desmond, and hardly 
 know how to answer you without giving you pain, but I must 
 say it, I can give you no " 
 
 "Hush," he said passionately, "Do not complete the 
 sentence, I must, I will hope ! Never have I felt for any one 
 the entrancing feelings which your modest}^ and sweet in" 
 genuousness have raised in my breast, and on the day I cease 
 to hope, I shall be a broken-hearted man." 
 
REALITIES or iyi)IA>- LIFE. 77 
 
 •'Laura, you are very pale," said her aunt, as she returned 
 to the room. " What is the matter ?" 
 
 *' I will tell you by and bye, dear aunt," she whispered, 
 " spare me now or I shall betray myself." 
 
 Before Mrs. Templemore left, Mrs. Blandon mentioned that 
 she had made up a pic-nic on Yfednesday week, to be held 
 at the Botanical Gardens. " I shall have a select party and 
 hope to spend a pleasant day. We shall have lots of people 
 to whom the place is new, and I hope the affair will come off 
 with spirit." 
 
 Mrs. Templemore agreed to go, and after Julia and her 
 sister had promised to be such friends with Laura, and had seen 
 them all into the carriage, and said a hundred good byes, not 
 forgetting a sly wave of the handkerchief to Hampton, they 
 were whirled home, all charmed with their evening at Mrs. 
 Blandon's. 
 
 '* You see there was no fuss Laura," remarked her aunt, 
 " no suppej', and yet everyone was happy." When the}^ were 
 alone, the former recounted what had passed between Captain 
 Desmond and herself, and said temperately but firmly, "I 
 am afraid you will be much annoyed at what I have done, 
 but I am determined rather to suffer anything than marry a 
 man I do not love." 
 
 • Seeing that Laura's attractions were likely to bring a host 
 of admirers, and hiding her chagrin, her aunt replied, " I will 
 not try to influence you, although I may think you very 
 
78 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 foolish to throw away such a good chance," and saying good 
 night, hastily left her. 
 
 Laura lay long on her couch before she slept. The first 
 open declaration of love had been made and she had spurned 
 it from her. Had it been Conrad Daymer she thought, what 
 happy dreams would have been conjured up before her. How 
 strange that he should now represent her highest standard of 
 merit. But, suppose he in return did not really love her. 
 Doubts and fears, then hopeful dreams succeed on« another as 
 the hours pass by, and at last our heroine sleeps a troubled sleep. 
 
 The cold weather in Calcutta and all over India is a gay 
 time. Every one makes up as much as possible for the im- 
 prisonment and disagreeables of the hot months, and from 
 November to March there is a whirl of excitement ; Govern- 
 ment house balls, the Viceroy's private parties, and all the 
 great officials receptions, take the first rank. Then come 
 civil, military, and private balls, each vicing with the other 
 in providing the finest music and most recherche suppers. 
 Every thing is now so anglicised, that the new comer sees 
 little in the arrangements differing from the customs at home. 
 All old Indianism, as it is understood traditionally in England 
 is done away with, sometimes to an inconvenient extent. To 
 go to a dinner party even in May, in a complete black suit is 
 " the thing," and as training will do a great deal, there are 
 men in Calcutta, attenuated to that degree of condition, they 
 do not seem to feel the heat. To see, however, some stout 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAK LIFE. 79 
 
 Colonel from the north-west provmces, or a robust individual 
 fresh from home under the ordeal is painfully ridiculous. A 
 ball is given in the hottest month (May) on the Queen's 
 birthday, and on that evening the quantity of red dye which 
 comes off the officers' coats on to the ladies' white dresses is 
 most laughable. The uninitiated are rather alarmed when 
 they see the great red patches, but the habitues soon re- 
 assure them. Mower shows at the Town Hall, fancy fairs, 
 and a round of visiting, fully occupied our heroine's time, 
 and she was delighted with everything around her. She 
 was too sensible and thoughtful not to see, that such a life 
 might degenerate into a mere animal existence, but she was 
 young, everything was bright and new to her, so it was not 
 wonderful that she should have given herself up to a spirit 
 of enjoyment. 
 
 It had been by this time settled that Hampton should 
 go to Allahabad, he having been posted to a native regi- 
 ment quartered there, and as he expected to be away a week 
 on his hunting expedition, he applied for his full privilege 
 leave of one month, and made all his arrangements to start 
 from Calcutta, immediately on his return from Kishnaghur. 
 
 One morning as Laura was reading the list of passengers 
 in the incoming steamer, she could not repress a little ex- 
 clamation. 
 
 " What is the matter ?" said her aunt. 
 
 " Nothing particular," she replied, " only I see the name 
 of a friend amongst the passengers, wlio will be here on 
 
80 EASTWAEDS, OE 
 
 Saturday." " A lady ?" " No, a gentleman." " Young r" 
 " Yes." " And his name ?" " Conrad Daymer. In my aunt's 
 last letter she said he had passed his examination for the 
 civil service, and vs^ould be in India soon." 
 
 Laura was glad to retire to her own room to think over 
 this new incident ; would he call soon, and would he still be 
 interested in her ? The thought that there might soon be 
 some one near her whom she might love, might look to for 
 protection, in that strange land, was almost too bright a 
 dream to be indulged in. True, her brother would do all 
 he could, but he was so young a soldier, duty or ambi- 
 tion might lead him to far distant lands, where a woman 
 would only be an incumbrance. She saw that her aunt's 
 aifection was a mere show, and although she had faith in 
 her uncle, still he, good easy man, could hardly afford to 
 fight his wife for the sake of his niece. Poor thing she now 
 began to understand how girls ma}^ be sacrificed to men 
 that they do not love, and she wondered that the world 
 should so often condemn without a hearing the poor friend- 
 less creature who is goaded into a marriage of convenience. 
 This pity is all the more deserved by girls in India, where in 
 case of poverty there is not a single method by which they 
 may support themselves, and then comes that fatal item the 
 climate, which renders physical exertion in the plains im- 
 possible. 
 
 Marriage is the only escape oflered, and many is the heart- 
 sick bride who has tried to smile amid her agony in that 
 
EEALITIES OF IXDIAX LIFE. 81 
 
 g-ay city of palaces. Our remarks of course apply to those 
 who are forced by circumstances to go to India, and who 
 are left there destitute, or perhaps subject to domestic 
 trials, which render any change acceptable. 
 
 As she was sitting pondering these matters in her own 
 room, her aunt entered it and asked her if she would like to 
 examine the interior of one of those immense piles of build- 
 ings she had noticed in the native town. " Templemore 
 has procured me an invitation to go and see the widow of 
 one of the richest Zemindars of Bengal. She is called the 
 Eanee Easmoney, her house is in Jaun Bazaar, and when 
 we return home 1 shall tell you the history of the family." 
 
82 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 CHAPTEE V. 
 
 TISIT TO THE EAFEE. EEYENUE SETTLEMENTS OP 
 BENGAL. 
 
 In our last Mrs. Templemore and Laura were on the 
 ];^oint of starting to ])ay their visit to the Eanee Easmoney. 
 The roomy double roofed palkee garee (closed carriage) 
 soon took them to the wide portals of her mansion in Jaun 
 Bazaar. This immense mass of masonry was built with a 
 large open quadrangle in the centre, and it was evident that 
 the architecture had, to a certain extent, been influenced 
 by the European buildings in other parts of the town. It 
 had therefore not so much grotesque ornamentation about 
 it as Hindu mansions generally have, and altogether wanted 
 the Moorish arches, minarets, or gorgeous mosaics so ex- 
 pressive of the taste of the Mahomedan conquerors of the 
 country. The windows which looked into the inner square 
 were barred with iron and seemed disproportionately small, 
 giving a prison-like look to the whole building. The roofs 
 of all four sides were flat, being formed of strong cement, 
 and aff'orded a spacious promenade for the almost imprisoned 
 inmates of the Zenan^. They were totally devoid of chim- 
 
SEALTTIES OF Il^-DIAN LIFE. 38 
 
 nejs ; as fire-places, except in detached kitchens, are un- 
 known in Calcutta, and were surrounded bj heavy balus- 
 trades, on which might often be seen, pensively standing on 
 one leg, the great bone-eating adjutant bird. En jyassant 
 we may mention that three or four of these feathered giants 
 are almost always perched like sentinels on the lofty para- 
 pets of Grovernment House, and having a revolting import 
 in their presence to the passer by, they are also to be seen 
 in expectant groups on the outer walls of that dreadful G-ol- 
 gotha, the public burning Ghaut of Calcutta. 
 
 On stepping out of their carriage our fair friends entered 
 a lofty and rather gloomy archway, which pierced the 
 breadth of the building. Before them lay the quadrangle 
 which contained about an acre of ground. On each side of 
 the entrance were the guard-rooms of the door keepers 
 (Durwans) and armed retainers of the family. The walls 
 of these were covered with weapons strikingly similar to 
 those of the feudal times of England. Shining conspicu- 
 ously out amongst them are lines of shields of the rhino- 
 ceros' hide, studded with silver bosses, each with its owner's 
 gaudy tulwar (scimetar) hanging underneath ; ranged 
 below, butt-ends on the ground, are fearful looking imple- 
 ments exactly like the Lochabar axe of the ancient Edin- 
 burgh guard, being a hook, an axe, and a spear in one. 
 Then there are iron-handled battle-axes, the counter part of 
 which the Black Prince may have wielded at Cressy or 
 Poictiers, mixed up with a host of other lethal v/eapons, in- 
 
84; EASTWAKDS, OK * 
 
 eluding the iron-bound kttee (bamboo) eight feet long and 
 heavy enough to fell an ox. 
 
 As the visitors entered the archway the motley turbaned 
 group of guards, their faces painted with caste-marks in 
 vermilion and white, stood up and salaamed. They were all 
 picked men from the north-west of India, trained wrestlers, 
 and some of them gigantic in stature. But — that fatal 
 "but" — a dozen Europeans would make the pantomimic 
 host fly, and as far as running goes, our gaudy friends 
 would certainly be unequalled. The master of the cere- 
 monies, an elderly Brahmin, Ms face also caste-marked, and 
 with the nine times nine, twisted, sacred cord round his 
 shoulder, now receives our party. He did not make the 
 usual obeisance, for no Brahmin, if he can safely avoid it, 
 salaams. He puts his palms together before his face, says 
 " Asserbad" (blessing), and his salutation is over. A sudra 
 or low caste man, in return, answers "Bundgee" (reve- 
 rence), rubs the dust with his hand off the sole of the Brah- 
 min's foot and puts it reverentially on his forehead. Most 
 of the better class of natives in Calcutta speak English, but 
 the Kanee was a low caste woman, surrounded by bigoted 
 Hindus who affect contempt for the language of Christians, 
 and consequently it was not cultivated in her household. 
 Mrs. Templemore had, therefore, taken her Portuguese 
 Ayah with her as interpreter. Led by the Brahmin, they 
 mounted a heavy flight of steps entirely of masonry, ending 
 in a solid iron-barred door and entered a corridor. From 
 
EEALITIES OF ITs'DIAX LITE. 85 
 
 tliis they are taken into the state apartments meant to re- 
 present English drawing-rooms. Here the bad taste of the 
 semi-savage shone out conspicuously. Nothing but a Lon- 
 don sale-room on an auction day, can afford a fit comparison 
 with these rubbish-filled halls. Gaudy French clocks, out- 
 rageous French engravings, chandeliers of all sorts and sizes, 
 barrel-organs and musical boxes by the dozen, marble 
 tables, tawdry bead ornaments and common paper flowers, 
 here a shabby thing, there a costly one, make up what the 
 native does not really care for, but he hopes to overwhelm 
 you with his magnificence and says, " There, white man, 
 what think you of that." Now they leave the show-rooms 
 and traverse another corridor, ending in a heavy purdah 
 (curtain). A motherly-lookiug woman, neatly dressed, here 
 relieved the Brahmin, pulled the hangings aside, and they 
 entered a scantily furnished, matted ante-room. A door 
 was then opened and they were in the presence of the far- 
 famed Banee, who has a million in cash, and an income, 
 from land alone, of thirty thousand pounds a year. 
 
 Lalla Eookh, pearls, eyes of the gazelle, lights of the 
 hareem, fairy forms, and numerous other Orientalisms have 
 pervaded Laura's mind the whole of the morning, and the 
 reality is a little, fat, cofiee-coloured woman, seated, to 
 please her guests, in a cbair, with one muslin robe, the 
 Hindu sarree, round her body, and a handsome cashmere 
 shawl flung ungracefully over her shoulders. She was 
 smoking and chewing pawn ! A dozen ill-favoured slave- 
 
86 EASTWAEDS, OE 
 
 girls loitered aLout, two of them standing behind their 
 mistress's chair. The Eanee rose, shook hands, and begged 
 her visitors to be seated. The attendants then sprinkled 
 them with rose-water, contained in curious old gold bottles, 
 and put some otto of roses on their handkerchiefs. The 
 Eanee handed her pawn box to her visitors, who, however, 
 politely declined the contents of the same. Mrs. Temple- 
 more now made a frantic attempt to commence a conversa- 
 tion in her best Hindustanee, but bad was her best, and we 
 are sorry to say she broke down most woefull}^, making so 
 many horrible mistakes that she became quite alarmed, and 
 thankfully threw herself into the hands of her Ayah who 
 spoke for her. 
 
 " "Was the Eanee well ? and how were the other members 
 of her family ? could she not see them ?" 
 
 " Oh, yes !" One of the slave girls was despatched with 
 a message, and in a few minutes in trooped something de- 
 cidedly oriental at last. Still, being Hindu women, their 
 dresses were not so gorgeous as those of Mahomedan ladies 
 would have been. They did not wear the TurJvish trowser 
 or the tight-fitting boddice, as these last would have done, 
 but some of their sarrees (the primitive Hindu dress in one 
 piece) were very splendid, being of cloth of gold, wound in 
 voluminous folds round their bodies, and brought over the 
 head mantilla fashion. One graceful girl particularly at- 
 tracted Mrs. Templemore's and Laura's attention. We 
 shall try to describe her. She was about fifteen, and very 
 
EEALITIES OF IXDIAX LIFE. 87 
 
 fair for a low caste -woman. Her eyes were made to look 
 doubly sparkling by the tint of soorma (black antimony) 
 paste wliich had been painted on the edge of the lids. Her 
 eyebrows joined, being slightly tattooed where nature had 
 separated them. She had evidently a quantity of false hair, 
 plaited in with her own, forming a very large knot (kopa) 
 at the back of her head. In front her hair was parted in 
 the middle, and she had actually two little croche coeurs 
 on her temples. She was dressed in an airy tarlata- 
 nish looking fabric (native made) of the darkest blue 
 edged with gold, and covered with sprigs of the same. 
 This was fastened round her waist, very full, drawn scarf- 
 like over her body, and then lightly thrown over her head. 
 She had on a magnificent pearl necklace and ear-rings. Her 
 bracelets were solid bars of gold an inch broad, in which 
 were embedded emeralds and rubies as big as beans. Her 
 anklets were also very massive, and her slippers were one 
 mass of gold embroidery and seed pearls. She seemed a 
 favorite with the Eanee, and no doubt had been bedecked 
 for the occasion. Of course she could neither read nor write, 
 and being above the necessity of attending to the domestic 
 economy of the household, what on earth she did to pass the 
 time puzzled our heroine, and also seemed a poser to the 
 Eanee herself, to whom the question was put by Mrs. Tem- 
 plemore. 
 
 The other women were tall and short, ugly and pretty, 
 stout and lean. They had all splendily jewelled nose-rings, 
 
88 EASTWAEDS, OE 
 
 ear-rings, and some of tliem toe-rings. The only ornaments 
 Laura liked were tlie silver and gold solid huslees, or neck- 
 laces, made of sucli pure metal that they could be bent round 
 the neck by the wearer without any other fastening. She 
 also admired the gemmed bracelets and anklets, all of solid 
 gold, studded with uncut rubies and diamonds. One pretty 
 girl of about eight came up at her invitation, and she 
 was not a little surprised to hear that the little thing was 
 married, or at least betrothed. She had never seen her 
 husband, but that was nothing, and if he died sbe would be 
 a hopeless widow (as no re-marriage was permitted), would be 
 allowed no salt, where salt is a necessity, could wear no orna- 
 ments, and in fact would be glad when death released her from 
 her sufferings. Laura shuddered as Mrs. Templemore told 
 her this in a wbisper. The women who had come in last were 
 the Ranee's daughters and granddaughters, for of course she 
 was a grandmother at thirty, with nephew's wives and her 
 own nieces all patriarch ally living together — none of her 
 own sons lived past childhood, and in her old age she had 
 adopted a young man, who was such a character that we 
 must draw his picture separately. Before, however, doing so, 
 we must ask any learned reader where this old woman could 
 have procured a child with nearly auburn hair, lightish 
 hazel eyes, and a particularly stout though short frame. 
 His complexion was that of a dark Italian — not a bit 
 blacker — and not a soul in Calcutta knew how he could be 
 a native, and still be so fair. Besides, he was necessarily of 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAX LIFE. 89 
 
 the same caste as his adopted mother, and that was a low 
 one, which at once imphes a dark colour. Certainly there 
 are some queer things going on in native society, and the 
 European is never a whit the wiser. If" lie had been a Ma- 
 homedan, of course a Cashmere woman or even an Eurasian, 
 can easily be imagined as the mother ; but here were rigid 
 Hindus, to whom any outsider's touch is pollution, able to 
 produce this strange fair boy. Yerily, they are a clever 
 race, and we suspect that Hinduism is a very convenient 
 religion to the rich. This young gentleman had the iinest 
 four-in-hand drag, the fastest trotting English horse, and 
 the best matched pair of Arabs in Calcutta. His barouche 
 for the evening, and his harness, were radiant with silver 
 and satin. He wore English pantaloons, a kimkhab, or 
 gold brocade chupkun, or coat, and a little gaudy cap stuck 
 on one side of a large bush of brown curly hair. He was 
 the cynosure of all eyes, till one unlucky day, being pro- 
 bably intoxicated with his social success, he had the audacity, 
 while driving on the course, to throw a rose into the lap of 
 a very pretty little Englishwoman, recently married, and 
 the wife of a Calcutta tradesman. Now came the con- 
 trast between white man and black, or at least semi-black. 
 The irate husband, when he heard of the insult, pro- 
 cured a tremendous whip, laid in wait for his highness of 
 Jaun Bazaar, drove his buggy alongside of the baboo's 
 resplendent vehicle, and thrashed him well all up the 
 course. 
 
90 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 After a few minutes the ladies liad exhausted their stock 
 of questions, the younger native women had examined the 
 (to them) extraordinary dress of the white women, and at last 
 much to her horror,' asked how many children Laura had ? 
 ]5>irs. Templemore saw it was time to leave, for the old 
 Eanee had tucked up one leg on the chair, and was making 
 preparations to get up the other, which were evident signs 
 of weariness, and so with smiles, and a good deal of dumb 
 show supposed to be indicative of mutual affection, the 
 party broke up. Several trays of sweetmeats, spices, and 
 two handsome dacca muslin dresses were handed into the 
 carriage, and our friends were glad to find themselves once 
 more on the road to their comfortable home. 
 
 Mrs. Templemore now explained her reason for not giving 
 the history of the Eanee's family. " The fact is," she 
 said, '*that I did not wish to disenchant you before our in- 
 terview. The story goes that the Eanee's husband's father 
 was Sirdar bearer (or head valet) to an old civilian nick- 
 named Jimmy Blazes, who wishing to pension the man off 
 in a secure way, bought him — at a sale for arrears of rent — 
 the Mokimpore zemindarry, or estate, for 8000 rupees, or 
 £800. It was then certainly either uncultivated swamp or 
 grass jungle, with but few inhabitants ; still it was a great 
 bargain. The family are of a low caste, and the title of Eanee 
 or Princess, is granted by courtesy only, on account of their 
 great wealth." 
 
 "While the ladies are preparing for tiffin (lunch) we will 
 
REALITIES OF I>'DIAy LIFE. 91 
 
 indulge in a few remarks on the subject of such estates as 
 Mokimpore. It is the knowledge, come all too late, of such 
 pretty bargains as the above which is the real cause of Sir 
 Charles AYood, instructed by his council, putting so many 
 obstructions in the way of the Bill for selling waste lands 
 in India. The horse being stolen, the men who govern 
 India double lock the stable. If we look over Bengal the 
 amount of cases in which Government has been swindled is 
 appalling. 
 
 The Eajah of Bettiah in the district of Chumparun col- 
 lects a revenue of, it is said, two hundred and fifty thousand 
 pounds per annum, having compounded with Government 
 at the time of the perpetual settlement, for the sum of about 
 twenty thousand pounds per annum, as his yearly rent. 
 This is a grand instance. Here is a smaller one. A refugee 
 Nepaulee got a grant of a tract of land in a remote corner 
 of the district of Purneah, on a payment of thirty-five 
 pounds annually. That tract comprises eight to ten thou- 
 sand acres of rich land, and yields at least two thousand 
 pounds a year. In a very small way, we have known a man 
 pay six pounds to Government and collect three hundred 
 and fifty. 
 
 To show that the native officials (in contra-distinct ion to 
 the European) at the time of the settlement knew what 
 they were doing, some few estates cannot now pay their 
 government rents, their owners having neglected to bribe, 
 and thus falling under the displeasure of the real pullers of 
 
92 N EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 the strings of the puppet Government. The bribe paid to 
 the Bengallee Baboo, who really settled the Bettiah estate, 
 the first on our list, was (it is openly talked of) fifteen thou- 
 sand pounds down. What caused such terrible mis-manage- 
 ment ? it will be asked. The answer is the unparalleled 
 ignorance of every one connected with government, of the 
 districts under their charge, and of their languages and cus- 
 toms. To a certain extent this was unavoidable. Take a 
 case. Suppose the civilian who settled the Bettiah estate, 
 did go some eighty miles from head quarters with his 
 tents to the spot (which we very much doubt, and 
 which would be an impossibility for six months in the year 
 on account of the heat), who was to tell him how far 
 the Eajah's estate really extended to ? There never had 
 been any survey. His native staff were of course all bribed. 
 If he rode ten miles of a morning one way, and in another 
 direction in the evening to gather information, who was 
 there to tell him anything. The villagers talked a nearly 
 unintelligible patois, and were warned to say nothing 
 that could injure the Eajah, on pain of ruin. The estate 
 was some fifty miles long and the same broad, portions of it 
 being notorious for deadly fevers. Any documents relating to 
 it in the Government's hands were utterly worthless. No- 
 thing but a detailed survey (by some one who understood 
 the language &c.) could have given the extent of it, and then 
 perjured testimony and forged documents would have been 
 produced to show that perhaps a fourth of the real collection 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 93 
 
 was the proper rent charge. Under these circumstances 
 what was a man to do ? Guess at it. He did, and the 
 results are kno^ii. Since the perpetual settlement of the 
 revenue, the country has galloped into prosperity, and in 
 looking at the matter it must be remembered that land and 
 everything else has risen in price in the most wonderful 
 way. Although Government has not one half the revenue 
 from Bengal that it ought to have, still the perpetual set- 
 tlement has been the chief cause of the tremendous strides 
 that province has made towards material prosperity, and if 
 any one in England pictures its twenty millions of inlikbi- 
 tants as abject and miserable slaves, they are perfectly mis- 
 taken. In their own way they are happy, and in a few 
 more years their progress in wealth, civilisation, and per- 
 haps Christianity will be something astonishing. There is no 
 doubt, also, that the perpetual settlement kept some parts 
 of Bengal quiet, during the late rebellion, and that the proper 
 way to prevent a recurrence of such a disaster is to extend 
 its blessings all over India. This one thing is the key stone 
 of our government, viz., let the native have his acre of land 
 at a lower rent than he knows his unprincipled and rapa- 
 cious countryman would let him have it at, and he is yours 
 for ever. 
 
 In the first letters from the King of Delhi to the Zemin- 
 dars of the north-west, the principal inducement ofi'ered for 
 them to rebel was *' half- rents." The natives in the settled 
 districts knew the value of such a promise, and did not rise. 
 
94 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 The hours seemed to pass slowly to Laura Templemore till 
 the boom of the fort gun on Saturday announced the arri- 
 val of the Overland Steamer. She thought of her own 
 anxieties, and wondered if Conrad Daymer had some kind 
 friend to welcome him, and whether he would easily find out 
 her uncle's house. Then there were letters to be received 
 from her dear aunts, with all the news of Cheltenham and 
 her old friends there. 
 
 To how many hearts, does the boom of that gun 
 make the blood rush with quickened flow. To the mer- 
 chant, its deep solemn voice, mayhap speaks of losses 
 and redrafts and ruin, while to his neighbour, its sturdy 
 bass notes, sing cheerily of profits and balances and suc- 
 cess. To the parent, the husband, the lover, the brother, 
 it cries, "come quick, come quick, we are waiting with 
 beating hearts to fold you to our bosoms." The engaged 
 one flies down to the steamer, perhaps to meet some fair 
 charmer, he has not seen since childhood, but to whom he 
 has plighted his troth by proxy. And verily this last is 
 sometimes a most dangerous experiment. In proof of 
 which assertion, list to the fate of Smith, assistant magis- 
 trate of Budsoorutnuggur. He was an outrageously ugly 
 little man, all forehead and eyes like a frog or red mullet. 
 He must have had two windpipes, for his voice, consisted 
 of a shrill treble and a deep bass, which startled and as- 
 tonished the listener by their jerky alternations. He must 
 not only have been an ugly boy, but he had grown more and 
 
BEALITTES OP INDIAN LIFE. 95 
 
 more ill-favoured yearly in India. No girl would look at 
 liim, although he was tremendously clever, and sure to rise 
 in the service. At last a bright thought ; his cousin Lucy 
 might ; he wrote ; she, desperate, said yes ; transports of 
 love ; overland steamer ; fascinating young officers ; Lucy 
 false ; boom of the gun ; brings her lover ; squeaks from 
 him ; almost shrieks from her ; fortnight given in Calcutta 
 to consider the matter ; constant state of hysterics ; final 
 answer — no ! Friend met him after a month. " Congratu- 
 late, Benedict," and all that sort of thing. (Smith lisped.) 
 Hum ! She came outh, bat made thome widiculous excuthe 
 abouth puthnal appeewance, and I am done again. Cost 
 thwee hundred pounds out and home," Friend evapo- 
 rated. 
 
96 EASTWAEDS, OK 
 
 CHAPTER YI. 
 
 THE MEETIIfG — TEIP TO KTSHNAGnUR — BUFFALO 
 SHOOTING. 
 
 On Sunday Mrs. Templemore took Laura to the churcli 
 built by Daniel AYilson, late Bisliop of Calcutta. We can- 
 not say much for its architectural beauty, although it is a 
 handsome building on the whole. The internal arrange- 
 ments were the most striking feature to our heroine. 
 
 The cold weather being nearly over, punkahs (large fans) 
 in continuous rows had been suspended from the ceiling at 
 a distance of seven feet from the ground, with a frill of one 
 foot deep depending from the framework, the result was 
 that most of the congregation were hidden from the clergy- 
 man, or, to say the best of it, only played bo-peep with him, 
 according to the punkahs' backward or forward motion. The 
 novelty was startling, but after a while the monotonous 
 undulation almost sent Laura and Hampton to sleep. 
 
 The rest of the Sabbath day was passed as it would have 
 been in England, but the contrast between a heathen and a 
 Christian land was conspicuously marked by the non-obser- 
 vance of the holy day by the great mass of the population, 
 
EEALITIES OF IXDIllX LIFE. 97 
 
 who attended the Bazaars as usual, buying aud selling, 
 singing or abusing always in the highest keys, or squab- 
 bling over a disputed pennyworth of distressingly stale 
 vegetables, or may be a slice of very high-flavoured fish. 
 
 Their knowledge, that is, of the uneducated, of the Eng- 
 lishman's religion is so very scanty, that they look on the 
 Saheblog (ladies and gentlemen) going to church, as ver\' 
 much on a par with their own poojah worship at a shrine, 
 and cannot realise why master and mistress should be more 
 than usually solemn or meditatiA'e for one day out of the 
 seven. Xor for the life of them can they make out why 
 the house tailors are allowed a holiday by their mistresses 
 on Sunday, the said knights of the needle improving the 
 occasion by taking in piece-work at their own houses on 
 that day. In the Moffassil (interior) where a church may 
 be fifty or one hundred miles distant, poor isolated Euro- 
 peans are apt to forget the return of the day of rest, and I 
 have heard an ingenuous and reproving wife say to her 
 thoughtless husband, why John you must know it is Sunday, 
 don't you see the tailor has not come ! ! ! 
 
 Monday morning brought the usual string of carriages 
 and buggies to Mrs. Templemore's door, amongst whose 
 occupants, the latest Calcutta gossip and the English 
 steamer's arrival were the principal items of conversation. 
 
 " "What do you think, Miss Templemore, of old General 
 Behoos, whom you met at Mrs. Blandon's, having pro- 
 posed for Miss Browning ? She has accepted him and the 
 
 7 
 
98 EASTWABDS, OE 
 
 marriage is to come off in a fortnight. There are even bets 
 he will have to be wheeled up to the altar in a chair, as the 
 excitement of the affair has brought on a tremendous attack 
 of gout in his feet. He has bought the bride elect some 
 magnificent jewellery, and the milliners have nearly gone 
 mad with the amount of orders they have received for laces 
 and silks." 
 
 Laura asked her informant if he were joking. 
 
 " Oh dear no," he replied, " marriages of this kind are 
 not uncommon here,, old Greneral Paugul was taken to the 
 church in a chair only last year, and Ids bride was only 
 seventeen, while Miss Browning, you know, is a leetle more 
 than that." 
 
 The day wore on — the visitors, one by one, left, and still 
 no Conrad came. Laura began to fear that she was forgot- 
 ten, and felt almost sick with hope deferred. 
 
 And now 'tis only Mrs. Blandon's carriage, which is later 
 than usual, and ^er card which is brought in. 
 
 But who is this walking so demurely behind her, while 
 she smiles wickedly ? It is he at last ! 
 
 " I thought I should surprise you, Miss Templemore, but 
 Conrad is a cousin of mine, and as he seemed to consider it 
 life or death work to be here to-day, and asked me for your 
 correct address, I thought I could do no better than bring 
 him myself. Allow me to introduce him to you ; Mr. Con- 
 rad Daymer — Miss Templemore." Here her eyes twinkled 
 merrily, and she could hardly suppress a smile. 
 
EEALITIES OF IlfDIA?^' LIEE. ' 99 
 
 One look and Laura saw rosy visions of the future rise 
 softly before her. 
 
 The young friends did not speak a great deal, they were 
 too much absorbed in thought to do so. They gazed with 
 dazzled eyes down hope's sun-lit vista, and lost themselves 
 in the enchanted scene. Everything round them aided the 
 effects of love's intoxicating elixir, which tliey quaffed witli 
 eager lips. The perfume of the jasamine-scented chumpa 
 flower mingled with the rose was borne into the luxurious, 
 slightly darkened room, on the balmy, voluptuous air. The 
 comparison with the ill-favoured natives outside, rendered 
 Laura's beauty (and all beauty is comparative) the more 
 striking to Conrad. Her dress was suited to the mildness 
 of the climate, and was charmingly light and becoming. 
 Youth's fair goddess lent all her grace to make our heroine 
 beautiful. Truth and Innocence stood guardians by her 
 side, and shed their light through her clear blue eyes ; love 
 tinged her cheek with softest tints and sparkled in her 
 giance. Is it a wonder that Conrad felt entranced ? Oh, 
 glorious di-eams of youth, clothed in bright rays from hea- 
 ven, gilding our morning with their splendour and colouring 
 even life's evening with chastened, but still beauteous hues, 
 why last ye not for ever ? 
 
 Alas, fair maid and brave youth, because this world would 
 then be too much akin to Paradise, and ye would forget that 
 dust must to dust once more. 
 
 Laura had never analysed her feelings to Conrad Daymer 
 
100 EASTWAEDS, OE 
 
 when in Cheltenham. It was only after their separation 
 that she discovered how strong a hold he had of her imagi- 
 nation. Besides, her entry into the world's tumultuous 
 throng made her think of him as one who would protect her. 
 She felt that she could cling to him and defy all storms 
 which might burst around her ; and when she saw by his 
 manner that she was aU in all to him she was indeed 
 happy. 
 
 She and Conrad might have met for months, perhaps 
 years, in England, without their attachment ripening to its 
 full growth, but in India it was different. There genial 
 showers of rupees moisten the plant of love and beautify its 
 foliage and flowers, while youth's warm sun makes it grow 
 with a marvellous rapidity unknown in the cold north, 
 where want of means withers up the tender bud, or where 
 it is stunted by the freezing breath of counsel and warning 
 of the old, who, having plucked the fruit, grudge the next 
 generation even an experimental taste of its alluring clus- 
 ters. There are no old men so to speak in India, the pure 
 European population dies or returns to England before fifty, 
 and if one or two can be here or three pointed out who can 
 count their threescore years, notwithstanding the heat, hot 
 tiffins, and late whist parties, they are, we believe, merely 
 retained on special service as decoy ducks by the malevolent 
 spirit of the climate, whose insatiable appetite for victims is 
 never satisfied, 
 
 Monday evening being one of Mrs. Blandou's " at homes," 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN" LIFE. 101 
 
 Conrad looked forward with transport to the hour when he 
 should meet her again, and talk over bygone days. They 
 of course thought that neither Mrs. Templemore nor Mrs. 
 Blandon had noticed any peculiarity in their meeting, but 
 they were mistaken, and the former whispered to her friend 
 in the course of her visit, '* Laura will have her list full ere 
 long, I think." 
 
 That evening was a happy one for the youthful pair, and 
 the hours passed too quickly away ; but they were to meet 
 the next day, and perhaps the next and the next. The 
 short periods of anticipated separation only giving a higher 
 zest to the prospective pleasure of meeting, of interchanging 
 thoughts, of comparing present experiences, all so novel, and 
 past remembrances of far oiF old England, till I am afraid 
 they were not very good company for the unsentimental 
 portion of their fellow guests at the different houses at 
 which they met. 
 
 Amongst other items of news circulated at Mrs. 
 Blandon's soiree, was one which seemed to be of absorb- 
 ing interest, it was that on the next morning a grand and 
 very select hurdle race was to come off, which her aunt 
 promised to take Laura to see. The riders were all to be 
 young civilians. They were to be got up with extraordinary 
 magnificence as to costume, and as some twenty of thd 
 prettiest girls in Calcutta were in hopes of catching the 
 riders matrimonially, they would of course be present to 
 see the aflfair come off. 
 
102 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 Hampton was to start on his hunting trip after their 
 return home, his party, therefore, left early, and we must, 
 for a while, bid adieu to our Calcutta friends while we ac- 
 company him to Kishnaghur. Mr. Templemore's servants 
 being old hands at dawk travelling, had packed Hampton's 
 palkee with every necessary. Here a bottle of soda water, 
 there a flask of brandy ; a few oranges, a paper of biscuits 
 and sandwiches, a loaded revolver, and the garrison was 
 properly victualled for such a short trip, being only one of 
 fifteen hours' duration. Think what it must have been to 
 unprotected ladies who used sometimes to go a thousand 
 miles by this conveyance. 
 
 The complement of men is eight bearers, one mussalchee 
 or torch bearer and one or two bangyburdars, who carried 
 conical boxes called petarahs slung on bamboos, containing 
 the traveller's clothes. Every eight miles there is a relief, 
 and, considering the weights carried, four miles an hour is 
 not such a bad pace. 
 
 The extraordinary powers of endurance of the natives 
 generally, and of the palkee bearers in particular, have 
 astonished all Europeans who have witnessed their per- 
 formance, and when the idea takes possession of some 
 thoughtless, not to say inhuman, traveller that the natives 
 can carry anything, the weights imposed on them are some- 
 times incredible. 
 
 Palkee travelling is the original native method of loco- 
 motion. These men are generally eight or nine stone in 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 103 
 
 weight, their palkees are mere shells. Change tliis to a 
 stout European weighing twelve or fifteen stone, add a 
 tremendously heavy palkee, half a dozen hottles of fluid of 
 some kind or other, a double barrelled gun, provisions, 
 pillows, blankets, books, &e., and an aggregate is reached of 
 at least 350 to 400 pounds. How four slight natives carry 
 this at all is the wonder, but when they go for short dis- 
 tances at the rate of five miles an hour the feat becomes 
 astonishing. AYe have known a thoughtless boy bring up 
 in one of his boxes a bag of shot weighing twenty-eight 
 pounds, and the men who carried it 300 miles had never 
 even grumbled. 
 
 Hampton soon fell asleep, but, after being roused at the 
 crossing of a small river or two, and being bumped on the 
 ground at the relief stations, he found his night's rest would 
 not be very satisfactory. The bearers have also a nice way 
 of flashing the torch past the open door of the palkee, when 
 they wish to ask for bukshish, which would enrage the 
 mildest of human beings. It was about two o'clock next 
 day when he reached the Kishnaghur Dawk Bungalow. 
 Here he found a kind note, explaining the route, with a 
 native Peon on a tatoo or pony who would act as guide. 
 
 *' Four horses are laid for you" said the letter, "they are 
 all good ones to go, so you ought to be here in time for 
 dinner." 
 
 Hampton's first mount was a gay little govern- 
 ment stud bred, which carried him like a bird, the road 
 
104 EASTWAEDS, OE 
 
 was good, the native guide got up little races every now 
 and tlien to show off his riding, the weather was still cool, 
 and he was charmed with the prospect of sport before 
 him. 
 
 The thirty miles flew past therefore at railway speed, and 
 our hero found himself shaking hands with Mr. Besborough 
 in the noble verandah of Shikargurh house at about six 
 o'clock. He had been prepared by his uncle to see a fine 
 place, and to be hospitably received, but the reality far ex- 
 ceeded his expectations. There was an old English baronial 
 method of doing everything which astonished him. The floors 
 of all the lower rooms were of chequered marble, the roofs 
 were lofty, and the park of nearly a hundred acres studded 
 with splendid trees, was in capital keeping with the mansion. 
 A suite of rooms, a bearer, and Khidmutgar (table servant) 
 were placed at his disposal, and after a refreshing bath he 
 joined his host in the drawing-room. He there found as 
 warm a reception from Mrs. Besborough as from her 
 husband, and was introduced to some other ladies who had 
 accompanied their husbands to the hunting party, while 
 others were visitors from Calcutta. 
 
 ''Our grand meet" Besborough told him, "was at 
 Christmas, and the present one is the last for this year. 
 "We shall not have half as many sportsmen now, but I 
 have no doubt you will see some very dashing riding, and 
 some excellent sport." 
 
 Hampton did justice to his host's well-spread table, and 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 105 
 
 was deliglited at the programme of the next day's hunting, 
 which was discussed after the table-cloth was removed, and 
 the ladies had left. 
 
 •'' "What say you, Campbell," asked Besborough, of one 
 of the most reckless horsemen in Bengal ; " shall it be 
 buffalo or pig to-morrow. I think myself that we had 
 better try the buffaloes, before they think of shifting their 
 quarters, for if we have one heavy shower of rain, they will 
 be off south again." 
 
 The proposition was assented to, and Hampton was given 
 a description of the nature of the sport, by one of the 
 young fellows seated next to him. " There is a long line 
 of marsh some distance from this," said he, " which extends 
 about a hundred miles into the next province, Jessore. It 
 dries up in the cold weather, and a herd of buffaloes, the 
 last in this part of Bengal, sometimes comes up to our end 
 of their feeding grounds. They are not likely to give us 
 more than one day's work, as they think nothing of galloping 
 fifty miles on end when they are thoroughly disturbed." 
 
 "If you are going out to-morrow," said his informant, 
 " you had better stick to Campbell and watch what he does, 
 he is the most renowned man amongst us at this kind of 
 fun, and between you and me, it is no child's i^lay." He 
 explained that the buffaloes were ridden to, and shot at off 
 horseback, with short carbines and pistols. " You have to 
 go up quite close, for a bullet from a smooth bore does not 
 do much more than penetrate the hide, if fired at any great 
 
106 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 distance. The ground is generally very bad, and if your 
 horse slips while you are being charged, your chance of 
 escape is small." 
 
 Hampton passed his first evening at Shikargurh very 
 pleasantly, and was delighted at the cordial manner of the 
 planters. He dreamt a good deal of buffaloes and wild 
 boars, and other, to him, unknown monsters, and at last was 
 enjoying a splendidly deep sleep when he felt the bearer's 
 hand pressing his foot for the purpose of awakening him. 
 He jumped up, and made out from his dumb show that the 
 gentlemen were getting ready to start, although it was only 
 five o'clock. He was soon dressed, and found his host 
 sipping his coff'ee in one of the verandahs, where a table 
 was laid with a light breakfast. 
 
 "Grood morning," he said, ''slept well I hope after your 
 ride. By the bye, what kind of horseman are you ? I ask 
 you this because riding bufi'aloes is ticklish work, and our 
 animal is as superior to the American bison, as a wild boar 
 is to a tame one. Our bufialo bulls never run except to 
 keep up with the herd of females, and always take the post 
 of danger. They stand sometimes sixteen hands high at 
 the shoulder, and are magnificent creatures. The tiger 
 dares not go near them, and very few elephants will stand 
 their charge. When separated from the herd by rivalry, 
 they are called * IJrna' by the natives, and are terribly 
 mischievous. We shall stalk up to them to-morrow behind 
 a couple of native carts loaded with straw, with our horses 
 
REALITIES OP IlfDTAI^ LIEE. 107 
 
 following, and when we come pretty near we must gallop 
 right at them and disable as many as we can. I think you 
 had better remain close to Campbell here, as in case of a 
 mistake, he is the man to help you. I have ordered my 
 steadiest Arab, and you will find a pair of pistols in the 
 holsters of his saddle. You shall also have a nice light 
 carbine, which I have lately had out from England. I am 
 going to send out some elephants, as we may hear of an 
 urna bull after we are done with the herd." 
 
 The party started, and rode gently up to the edge of 
 the low lands where the buffalo ground commenced. 
 
 At one time the whole vast expanse of country had been 
 a sheet of reed and grass jungle diversified by patches of 
 water, but villages were beginning to be formed on the 
 skirts of what was destined to be valuable rice ground, and 
 the grass jungle was not now so continuous. In the rains 
 the whole country was a sea, and might be sailed over for 
 hundreds of miles ; a strange thing it is to be going along 
 all sail set, in one of the beautiful boats used by the Jessore 
 planters, over miles and miles of the thick rice crop peculiar 
 to the district which grows sometimes in as much as ten 
 feet of water. The boat will be gliding along seven or 
 eight miles an hour. In the direct tract appears that which 
 to the new comer seems a field of beautiful grass waving 
 two feet above the water. He expects a terrible shock, 
 but no ! the boat slides in among the thick vegetation and 
 will be brought up all standing by it, if the breeze should 
 
108 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 fail at all. In some places of these wild j heels of Bengal, 
 the surface of the clear water is covered for acres with the 
 beautiful white or rather pink lotus of the Hindu mythology. 
 The broad dark green leaf completely covering the surface 
 of the water, contrasts beautifully with the gorgeous flower, 
 which sends up a faint perfume as you draw up your boat 
 to gaze your fill on the wondrous sight. How paltry does 
 the display in some famous hothouse appear to those who 
 have seen such a sight as we attempt to describe ! There 
 one flower is watched with tender anxiety, here you may 
 load your boat if you like, without making any gap in the 
 glowing parterre. Talk of loading your boat. No sooner 
 said than done. The boatmen make a delicious vegetable 
 curry from the peeled stalks, and soon have a hundred- 
 weight stowed away for future feasts. As they tear the 
 long plants from the bottom, look over into the clear depths, 
 and wonder at the swarms of fish darting about. At the 
 time of the rice ripening, great sport is aff'orded in these 
 jheels by the flocks of wild geese and ducks, which migrate 
 from the shores of Siberia, and spend their winter in the 
 tropics. No words can convey an idea of their incredible 
 numbers or diversity of species. 
 
 We must now return to our subject. The bufi'alo of this 
 part of India is almost amphibious, swimming about for 
 hours, and diving when necessary for his food, which is sub- 
 merged by the rise of the rivers in the rainy season. At 
 night they retire to some comparatively high ridge, where. 
 
EEALITIES OF lyDIAX LIFE. 109 
 
 the bulls acting as sentirrels, they sleep securely. Their 
 strength and courage is very great, and they roam about 
 the terror of the squatter who may have cast his lot in 
 these lately cultivated wilds. Even the great man-eating 
 (in contra-distinction to the fish-eating species) alligator 
 generally avoids the neighbourhood of the surging mass of 
 shining black horns (six and seven feet long) of a herd of 
 buffaloes ; but once within the writer's experience, one of 
 these monsters, having been tempted by a nice fat calf, 
 forgot his usual caution and seized the tempting morsel. 
 A cry of pain, answered by the mother, and caught up by 
 the herd, brought them down in a mad plunging gallop to 
 the spot, which was covered with three feet of water, and 
 adjoined a broad river. The result was that the alligator 
 was gored, trampled on, tossed from horn to horn, and 
 made mincemeat of in five minutes. The sight was mag- 
 nificent. Fancy the spray thrown up by a thousand hoofs, 
 while the air resounded with the deep grunting roar peculiar 
 to the animal, and the clash of the horns as they threw 
 their victim about. 
 
 Hampton's heart beat quick when Campbell, lightly 
 touching his shoulder, whispered to him to peep froiu 
 behind the straw which hid them from the buffaloes. There 
 they were some five hundred yards off", all facing the danger 
 which they began to suspect. One or two magnificent 
 bulls stalked slowly to the front, their horns thrown back, 
 and their noses in the air. A series of deep grunting 
 
110 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 signals passed through the herd, and the old sportsmen 
 knew that it was time to be up and doing. A rush was 
 made for the horses. The movement was at once seen, and 
 with a sound of clashing horns and thundering hoofs, the 
 unwieldy monsters bounded across the plain, followed by 
 the eager hunters. On bad, soft ground, a horse has no 
 chance in speed with a buffalo, but it is not so on good. 
 The horsemen were therefore soon up with them, and shots 
 were fired on all sides. Some of the cows, heavy with calf, 
 or with little ones by their side, soon separated from the 
 rest, and were easily overpowered by the less adventurous 
 spirits amongst the riders. But Besborough, Campbell, 
 and one or two more singled out the bulls, and rode quickly 
 and steadily till they could get along side. As we have 
 said before, the male buffaloes are perfectly fearless. Their 
 object, therefore, in keeping behind was to save the cows 
 and calves who are now beginning to be blown by the 
 tremendous pace, and, on their approaching some heavy 
 grass cover dived here and there into it in small parties. 
 When we talk of grass our readers must remember that it 
 grows to a height of eight and ten feet in Bengal. 
 
 Hampton had kept up steadily on Campbell's left hand, 
 watching all his motions and wondering when their part 
 of the play was to begin. Neither of them had as yet fired 
 a shot. The latter now pointed to an enormous bull, which, 
 bewildered at the separation of the cows, was galloping 
 along after a few of them which still kept together. 
 
EEALITIES OF IXDIAK LIFE. Ill 
 
 " Kow, Templemore," said he, "take a pull on your horse, 
 and we'll make a dash at that big brute, but reserve your 
 shots, for if we don't hit him hard, I am afraid from the 
 look of the ground (which was becoming wet) that we shall 
 not have time to reload. You had better let me fire first, 
 and then you can go in and see what you can do." 
 
 Neither of the plucky Arabs wanted spurs, a jerk of the 
 elbow sent them at racing pace up to the bulky monster, 
 who, with the white foam gathered round his mouth, glared 
 back on his pursuers with his vicious black eyes, and was 
 indeed a formidable foe. Keeping about twenty paces on 
 one side of him, Campbell fired one barrel of his carbine 
 right into his shoulder, but it did not stagger him at all ; 
 he only seemed to put on more steam, and went faster than 
 ever. The ground, as Campbell had foreseen, became a 
 little heavy, and the horses did not go quite so freely. He 
 feared that they would lose their prey if he was not brought 
 up at once, so he daringly rode up close to his shoulder. 
 He fired. His horse slipped. The buff'alo saw his chance, 
 and before he could recover himself, rushed on him. He 
 gave a side sweep of his horns, which would have thrown 
 horse and rider on the ground like nine-pins had he 
 touched them, but he luckily almost missed his mark. 
 One horn went through Campbell's jacket, underneath 
 his braces and would have lifted him from his saddle 
 had these not snapped in two.* The active little horse 
 * This is a fact. 
 
112 EASTWAEDS, OE 
 
 did his best to get out of his enemy's reach, and bounded 
 forward. 
 
 Hampton, who had anxiously been watching the fray, 
 now dashed his horse up and fired both barrels right into 
 the buffalo's face. This staggered him, but not bdng 
 injured mortally, he only stopped short, deliberated for a 
 moment, then turned and swung once more into his long 
 clumsy gallop. The tournament was over. In the melee 
 Campbell's carbine had been thrown into the mud and 
 trampled on, smashing the stock. His horse was going 
 slightly lame, and the bull was every moment increasing 
 his distance from his pursuers. The ground was getting 
 worse and worse, so for once the hitherto unconquered 
 sportsman had to give in. 
 
 " It would be madness for you, Templemore, to go after 
 that ironsided brute by yourself, so you must be content 
 with what you have done. That was a narrow squeak I 
 had," he said to his companion as they rode slowly back, 
 " I am much indebted to you for taking off the animal's 
 attention when you did, or he probably would have had me 
 again before my horse had thoroughly recovered himself." 
 
 Hampton expressed his pleasure at having been of service, 
 but was much disappointed at not being able to say that 
 they had been successful in their pursuit. 
 
 On reaching the main party, they found that two or 
 three cows had been knocked over, and a fine bull was jast 
 on the point of giving in to the numerous wounds he had 
 
REALITIES OF T^TDIAN LIFE. 113 
 
 received. One of his front legs was broken at the knee, 
 and it was piteous to see the noble animal, when he tried to 
 charge his destroyers, come down headlong, as his shattered 
 leg gave way under him, 
 
 "Bring up the big rifle," said Besborough, "and I will 
 put him out of his pain." 
 
 It was taken out of the howdah of the elephant belonging 
 to that gentleman, which had come up to the scene of 
 action, and, walking to within a few paces, he sent an ounce 
 ball into the beast's head. This ended his struggles and 
 he sunk with a low groan on the grass. 
 
 Campbell recounted his adventure, and Hampton was 
 not a little complimented on the part he had taken in the 
 matter. 
 
114 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 CHAPTEE YII. 
 
 COMBAT BETWEEN AN ELEPHANT AND BUFFALO. 
 
 ENCOUNTER WITH A TIGEB. 
 
 In our last, Campbell and Hampton had just rejoined 
 the main party of sportsmen. " I sent him with you, 
 Campbell," said Besborough, laughing, " to be looked after ; 
 but the tables were turned — he looked after you. Now," 
 continued he, "it is useless thinking anymore of that herd, 
 they are miles off by this time. What say you to try 
 for the Urna bull which my mahout says the villagers have 
 reported to him as living amongst the crops, defying every 
 one, and destroying everything that is sown ?" 
 
 Campbell and the rest of the party were delighted to 
 prolong the day's sport, so, changing their horses for 
 elephants, and light carbines for rifles, they steered for the 
 village in which the solitary bull had taken up his quarters. 
 They were not long in learning something about him. " He 
 tossed Sheyk Euheem's mother clean over the hedge of her 
 yam garden yesterday, curses be on him to the seventh 
 generation," said an old man they met. He forgot to say 
 that the aged dame had thrown an earthen pot at the 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 115 
 
 buffalo, and abused him, as only Bengalee women can abuse, 
 for trespassing on her domain. 
 
 " He ate up half my new-planted sugar cane the other 
 day," added another. " Oh, he is a brute, and his eyes are 
 like balls of fire." Warming in his description, he made 
 out that the buffalo was about ten feet high, and would 
 scatter the elephants like chaff. 
 
 " "We'll see about that," said Besborough. "You give us 
 some one to show his whereabouts, and we will stop his 
 sugar cane eating for the future." The man sent one of 
 his sons, who, crossing the village, led them to a highly 
 cultivated plain. On reaching the middle, he pointed with 
 his hand, and said, " He was last seen in that ruhur field, 
 and may be there now ; so, please your lordships, I'm off to 
 that mango tree, and you can find him out for yourselves." 
 
 The ruhur stands about six or eight feet high, and yields 
 a kind of pea, used all over India to make dall with. This, 
 we may explain, is nothing more than split peas which are 
 boiled nearly into a soup, and eaten with rice. 
 
 The elephants were formed into line, and beat slowly 
 down the field, crushing and eating the crop as they went 
 along. Suddenly they left off feeding, and the low trum- 
 petings and beating of trunks on the ground show that 
 there is something ahead. 
 
 " There he is !" shouts a sportsman in the middle of the 
 line, and Hampton saw a splendid pair of horns glance 
 over the high cover. No sooner did the buffalo see his 
 
116 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 enemies than, with a loud grunt, he charged right down on 
 them. Crack went every rifle, but, going at the pace he 
 was, and being hidden in the bushes, he was only hit slightly 
 in one or two places. The wounds infuriated him the more, 
 and he made steadily for one of the elephants, who, coward 
 like, turned round and received the charge behind. The 
 shock was terrific, and nearly sent him on his head. He 
 recovered, but the buffalo charged home again, and this time 
 stuck one horn into his hip. He roared with agony, and ran 
 into the open with the animal still goring him. Besborough 
 was riding the famous male elephant called Hadji Baba, valued 
 at five hundred pounds, and renowned all over Bengal.* 
 He was taken up as quickly as possible, and his rider put 
 two balls into the bull, which made him turn vrith fury on 
 him. Now came a sight worthy of an imperial arena, 
 and which has not often (if ever) been witnessed by any 
 of the present generation of sportsmen in India. 
 
 With the blood streaming from his wounds, he made a 
 desperate rush, and was received on Hadji Baba's massive 
 tusks. Unluckily, these last, according to custom, had been 
 deprived of their tips, and were bound round with hand- 
 some silver bands, partly for ornament and partly to pre- 
 vent the ivory splitting. The blunt ends, therefore, could 
 not pierce his tough hide, but only served to press him 
 back, making his ribs crack again, for, powerful as the 
 
 * The Hadji originally belonged to Col. Gairdner, 16th N. I. He 
 died, eveatually, of fever brought on by a single combat with a tiger. 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 117 
 
 monarch of the swamp was, he had his master now before 
 him. He dashed his horns right and left, trying to get 
 under the elephant's guard, but his efforts were useless. 
 They push, they strain, the ground is torn up by their 
 desperate struggles. At last Hadji Baba knelt down, and 
 inch by inch forced his opponent back, till, with one good 
 heave, he sent him on his side. The spectators of this 
 tremendous fight had not been able to get their elephants 
 up near enough to enable them to fire with certainty ; their 
 animals, notwithstanding mighty sounding blows from the 
 heavy driving irons used by the mahouts, having bolted in 
 all directions the moment the fight commenced. One or 
 two of the staunchest, however, were at last urged up, and 
 as the buffalo fell over, two or three balls were put into 
 him. He rose, staggered a few paces, stopped, swayed to 
 and fro, and then fell to the ground. 
 
 Besborough had not, of course, been able to fire after the 
 fight commenced, and had held on to his howdah for bare 
 life. He was enchanted at the way his mahout, as well as 
 his old favorite the Hadji, had behaved, and at once 
 promised the former a handsome bukshish. 
 
 Every one now dismounted to view their prostrate foe, 
 and an animated discussion took place as to who was to 
 have the horns, hoofs, &c. After a great deal of laughing, 
 joking, and brandy-and- water, it was decided that Hampton 
 was to have the former to take to his uncle, and to give 
 greater eclat to the occasion, an old Scotch assistant of 
 
118 EASTWAEDS, OE 
 
 Besborough's, who, I am sorry to say, was much too fond 
 of whiskey (and, in fact, was a privileged pensioner of that 
 gentleman's), insisted on mounting the back of the dead 
 animal, glass in hand, a,nd giving them a slight oration. 
 "Ye see, gentlemen, that it wad be a maist inveedious 
 thing to gie the spoils o' this muckle black deevil to any 
 other than oor young military friend, wha has distinguished 
 himself in a way that wad no hae disgraced "Wallace or 
 Bruce, or any ither of our immortal Scottish heroes. I 
 therefore propose that we mak the horns a present to him, 
 to be safely delivered in Calcutta, and mairover I beg you 
 to drink Mr. Hampton Templemore's health with three 
 times three." Amid shouts of laughter old Macsneeshan 
 continued, '"Hip, hip, hurrah!" when lo and behold the 
 buifalo slowly rose, and walked away with the petrified Scot 
 astride on his back.* " Hand him, shoot him, or I'm a dead 
 man," screamed Mac, and a dozen rifles were raised to knock 
 the bull over again, but it was soon seen that such means 
 were not necessary to secure him. It was his last struggle. 
 As Macsneeshan fell off on one side, he dropped down so 
 suddenly that he nearly shook his horns out of their sockets. 
 " Well, Mac, how do you feel ?" said Besborough, ad- 
 dressing his friend, as he sat the picture of astonishment on 
 the ground. "Hech, sir, I'm clean dazed; and if ye hae a 
 drap o' Glenlivet in your flask, just hae the kindness to 
 hand it to my mouth, for my ain hands tremble sae I hae 
 * Tliis is a fact. 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 119 
 
 mj doubts whether I could help mysel, and it wad be an 
 awfu' peety to waste good liquor by spilling it." Bes- 
 borough did as he was requested, and, amid a chorus of 
 laughter, the old Scotchman was helped into his howdah. 
 Hadji Baba was not hurt in the conflict, but he was fright- 
 fully excited, and was taken home at once under charge of 
 two female elephants, who coaxed him along, and it was a 
 week before he would eat willingly, and, although a splen- 
 didly tempered animal, he tore down everything that came 
 in his reach when taken out, for some time. 
 
 It was voted unanimously that the party had had enough 
 for one day, so the cavalcade wended their way home, short- 
 ening the road by smoking, talking, and laying plans for 
 the morrow. 
 
 Hampton could hardly believe that he had been one of the 
 actors in such stirring scenes, and promised himself not a little 
 satisfaction when he should recount his doughty deeds to 
 Laura, or send home an account of them to Jack Sterndell. 
 
 He thought he had never seen such a glorious set of 
 fellows as the Kishnaghur planters, and he was right, for 
 at the time of our story the district could boast of as fine 
 a set of men as ever earned the name of sportsmen. They 
 were splendid in the field, and hospitable after a fashion 
 not known elsewhere, for they had not only the kindly spirit of 
 the settler in new countries, but they were wealthy, and could 
 offer their guests every luxury that money could command. 
 
 Hampton had already had half a dozen invitations to go 
 
120 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 and ''spend a month with me, old fellow," but he was 
 obliged to disappoint all his would-be hosts by saying he 
 must join his regiment in a week or two. 
 
 If he thought highly of the guests at Shikargurh, great 
 also was his contentment at the breakfasts and dinners 
 spread before him. Hardly any luxury to be had in Eng- 
 land was wanting, while the numerous native dishes, and 
 the turbaned line of servants (each guest bringing his own) 
 gave a most imposing look to every meal. Here he tasted, 
 at breakfast, the real " Nawabee Pillaw" — rice, butter, 
 almonds, raisins, and spices, piled up in fascinating con- 
 fusion over a tender joint of lamb or pair of well-fed 
 chickens. Cutlets, done to a turn, of the splendid Biktee 
 and Ruhoo fish, invoked him by their crispy brownness to 
 eat them. For the first time in his life did he find wild 
 ducks so common that a savoury stew was made of their 
 breasts only, sliced fine in a gravy the secret of which the 
 old Khansamah (butler) would not divulge for untold gold. 
 Here the plump quail and still plumper little ortolan af- 
 forded gentle amusement after the graver labours of the 
 table, while the piquant Bombay duck (a kind of dried 
 fish) gave zest to the vintages of Lafitte or La Eose. Oh, 
 those glorious feasts at Shikargurh. Youth, health, hunting 
 — a kind welcome, and a hearty good wish at parting — what 
 more was wanting to make them perfect ? 
 
 Mr. Besborough, Hampton's host, was proprietor of the 
 largest indigo estate in Lower Bengal. It extended over 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 121 
 
 some four hundred square miles, had thirty or forty factories 
 for manufacturing the dye, with about thirty thousand acres 
 of land (held in lease from the natives) actually cultivated in 
 indigo, while the remainder grew crops such as rice, sugar 
 cane, linseed, &c. The business was superintended by Mr. 
 Besborough and a dozen European sub-managers and assis- 
 tants, who had again under them a staff of natives of all ranks 
 and castes, numbering, perhaps, one thousand. In a good 
 season the concern produced about £80,000 worth of the 
 dye, on an expenditure of about £50,000. All this develop- 
 ment of the resources of the country resulted from the 
 energy of a small body of Englishmen, but for whom the 
 whole tract of land would have been in the same savage 
 state in which it was found some fifty years ago. Then 
 there were no roads, no money ; oppression for the poor, 
 immunity from punishment for the rich, were the order of 
 the day. The good change came by the advent of the much- 
 maligned indigo-planter, who rented lands from the native 
 proprietors at such remunerative rates that, whereas their 
 fathers and grandfathers had generally been content to 
 live in mud-built huts, the present race of zemindars re- 
 joice in grand brick-built mansions, painted and bedecked 
 as Hindoos love them to be. They have also now accumu- 
 lated sufficient wealth to become indifferent to the white 
 man's gold, and to hate the influence which he, from his 
 vastly superior energy and honesty, commands from the 
 masses of the people. This feeling, a rise in the price of 
 
122 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 all native products and in tHe rent of land and labour, all 
 combined to cause the indigo riots which took place some 
 few years ago in Lower Bengal, and which, backed by the 
 countenance of the Grovernment officials, some of whom 
 shared in the jealous feelings of the zemindars, ruined a 
 most meritorious body of men, many of whom had been 
 toiling for thirty years. We believe that a reaction has 
 now taken place ; and when we see the very men who hated 
 such things while in Bengal, becoming the directors of 
 joint-stock eries in London, whose result will be the intro- 
 duction of more and more Europeans into India, it is 
 probable that the unfortunate Bengal planters may yet 
 recover some of their ancient prosperity. 
 
 As Mr. Besborough had some work to do in his cutchery, 
 or office, Hampton volunteered to accompany him, and was 
 not a little astonished at the mob of clerks or native writers, 
 accountants, rent-collectors, land-superintendents, &c., &c., 
 who swarmed out of the verandahs and different rooms at 
 the approach of the burra sahib (great gentleman). This 
 being a holiday, Mr. Besborough did not go through his 
 usual routine of work, which consisted of auditing accounts, 
 hearing Bengalee correspondence, settling disputes between 
 tenants, and many such matters. He contented himself with 
 an hour or so of business. Here is a sample of the cases 
 brought before him. There has been an up-and-down fight 
 between the grain-seller and hide-skinner of the nearest vil- 
 lage. " Protection, most noble lord!" shouts the former, hold- 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 123 
 
 ing out a bunch of hair which had been torn from his top- 
 knot. 
 
 " Justice !" moans the latter, with outstretched arms ; 
 " see how my life has been taken ; look at these wounds !" 
 
 These, to say the truth, are not very frightful, being 
 scratches made the most of by assiduous rubbing. 
 
 " What is the case?" inquires Mr. Besborough. 
 
 "My cow!" responds the grain-seller. 
 
 " My wounds !" groans the hide-skinner. 
 
 And so they would go on with their frenzied duet were 
 they not forcibly made to sit down while the quarrel is 
 explained by a bystander. 
 
 The grain-seller's cow died suddenly last night, and he 
 swears that the hide-skinner poisoned it, to get the hide. 
 But how is this to be proved ? No one would cut up a cow 
 in Bengal for love or money — the Hindoos from religious 
 scruples, and the Mussulmans from fear of the Hindoos. 
 Analysis of the cow's stomach, therefore, was impossible, even 
 if she had not been eaten up entirely by the jackals and vul- 
 tures an hour or two after her death. All the native servants 
 are against the poor hide-skinner, who is of the lowest caste, it 
 being pollution to be touched by him. For this very reason 
 Mr. Besborough sides with him as long as possible, but 
 nothing can be made of the affair from the contradictory 
 evidence adduced, so, with an intensely judicial look, he 
 said, " You are both sons of the evil one, to fight in this 
 way. The order is that you be fined one shilling each, and 
 
124 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 sign an agreement to keep the peace." This was a trifling 
 case, but in purely native society the skinner might have 
 been half killed and expelled from his home, there being 
 no justice for a low-caste man. Suitors and servants were 
 on the point of being dismissed, when an old Brahmin 
 came up and made his obeisance, which was politely ac- 
 knowledged. 
 
 "What are your wants to-day, Bisnanth Acharjea?" 
 " Cherisher of the poor ! I require the services of your house- 
 watchman." "In what way?" said Mr. Besborough. " In- 
 carnation of religion ! your watchman is the head thief 
 of the country ; and if you will only give him a hint, my 
 bullock, which was stolen last night, will be quickly re- 
 stored." Mr. Besborough seemed to believe that this was 
 not far from true, and sent for the aforesaid watchman, by 
 name Dursun Gwala. "Dursun, do you hear what the 
 Brahmin has been saying?" "Yes, my lord." *'"Well, that 
 bullock must be returned, sharp '^ '* How can I return it ?" 
 whines the arch-thief; "I have no power." 
 
 "Yes, you have," rejoins Mr. Besborough, "and the 
 bullock must come back." " Good, my lord," mutters 
 Dursun ; " if any of my boys hav^ it, it will be found tied 
 up near the Brahmin's house to-morrow after dusk." " Did 
 you ever hear of such a scoundrel ?" asked his host, turning 
 to Hampton. " I and all other Europeans are obliged to 
 keep the sirdars, or chiefs of the gang of thieves, as servants. 
 Did we not do so, our cattle and goods would not be safe 
 
REALITIES OF liN'DIAN LIFE. 125 
 
 for an instant. That fellow Dursuii does not thieve himself, 
 but he knows of every robbery in this part of the country. 
 I have known him trace a bullock for forty miles, from 
 village to village, and bring it back to its owner, charging, 
 of course, handsomely for his trouble." The Brahmin 
 folded his hands, salaamed, and retired, while our friends 
 wended their way back to the house. 
 
 On Hampton's second day it was decided that they should 
 beat some very heavy cover in an old deserted village, part 
 of which had been swept into the Ganges, forcing the in- 
 habitants to retire a mile or two inland. 
 
 Their host did not accompany them, and the leadership 
 of the party was entrusted to Campbell. As the morning 
 fog cleared away, the hunters found themselves at the edge 
 of the jungle. 
 
 " Take care of your head to-day," said one of the old 
 hands to Hampton ; " about the most dangerous things in 
 village hunting are the over-hanging branches of trees, 
 which will knock you out of your howdah if you don't look 
 out. Again, never urge your elephant too fast ; if you do 
 so, the driver and he may get flustered, a bolt under the 
 trees will ensue, and you are done for." 
 
 The order was given, and they advanced. It was a 
 wondrous sight, that tangled mass of vegetation : who shall 
 describe it ? Now the treacherous hooked streamers of the 
 rattan seize on howdah trappings, your hat, your coat. 
 If you advance, they will be torn to pieces. Carefully 
 
126 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 each hook is undone, and you slowly creep along. The 
 ground, where it can be seen, is a crumbling black mould, 
 rich with the decayed leaves of centuries. There is a damp, 
 fetid, feverish smell about the place. Now a group of Areca 
 (betel-nut) palms, graceful as the trees of fairyland, shoot 
 up to the light. They are fifty feet high, straight as an 
 arrow, without a branch, and no thicker than one's arm. 
 In the open, one blast of wind and they would be down ; 
 here they are supported by their closeness to each other 
 and by their stalwart neighbours, the mango and the 
 tamarind. 
 
 ^Numerous, to him unknown, animals attracted our hero's 
 eye as they plunge deeper and deeper into the forest. The 
 beautifully marked Khutass, or civet cat, of Lower Bengal, 
 runs with wondrous activity along the branches of that 
 splendid evergreen, the Jack tree {Arto carpus incisd), and 
 is out of sight in a moment. Lazy jackals, retired for the 
 day, wonder why their dark haunts are invaded in such a 
 rude manner. The pretty little gray-and- white squirrel 
 seems almost paralysed with astonishment, and allows 
 Hampton to nearly put his hand on his tail. The great 
 tree lizard glares at him with his protruding eyes, and gets 
 out of the way most unwillingly, having nearly induced a 
 silly fly, for which he has been watching, to come and be 
 eaten. Insects in myriads harbour in every trunk and 
 bough and leaf. The wild silkworm builds his cocoon in 
 yonder Peepul. Here, on your arm, settles the wonderful 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 127 
 
 green butterfly, not to be distinguislied from the leaf of a 
 tree. Whew ! now you liave a colony of the big red ant 
 scattered over you. Brush them off carefully and quickly 
 for if you have bad blood and they should sting you, they 
 will make your arm swell into a bolster in a few minutes. 
 
 As the elephant slowly passes the fork of that huge 
 Tamarind, see clustered together a heap of beautiful rose- 
 coloured beetles, spotted with black, two inches long, and 
 most charming to the eye. On that tall tree, withered by 
 the lightning's stroke, are hanging in dozens (by the hooks 
 in their wings), head downwards, the huge bat (the fruit- 
 eating flying fox) as it is called, and on its neighbour, that 
 gigantic cotton tree's topmost branches, is gathered to- 
 gether a huge bunch of dried brushwood, which is the bald- 
 headed vulture's home, her hideous brood being now and 
 then visible as they crane over to look for their dear parents, 
 who are, perhaps, enjoying themselves at some ghoul's 
 feast miles and miles away, or soaring on broad- stretched 
 pinion in wide-sweeping circles, a mere speck in the vault 
 of heaven, from which their wondrous eyesight will enable 
 them to mark the fall of patient ox, or body of wretched 
 Hindoo floating down great Gunga's tide. 
 
 But we must cut short our catalogue or it would be- 
 come a book in itself and attend to our sport. 
 
 The line of elephants moves slowly along, here pulling 
 down a juicy branch, crushing it between their millstones 
 of teeth, or wantonly planting their ponderous feet against 
 
128 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 the tall saplings which stop the way, and bending them to 
 the ground. At last they all met in an open space. 
 
 " T hear," said their leader, "that there is a tiger, tigress, 
 and two cubs in this jungle, but it will be a tough job to 
 get them out. We can at any rate beat the remaining half 
 of the forest, and then, if nothing starts, we will try back." 
 
 " Advance !" is again the word. In a few minutes the 
 elephants show by their uneasiness that their ancient enemy 
 is not far off. By this time the party had approached the 
 bank of the river, which was on their left. Campbell, 
 Hampton, and two others, formed the line on that side, and 
 were all within speaking distance of one another. Suddenly 
 Hampton's mahout seemed galvanized, and without speaking, 
 pointed with his hand, and there, sure enough, gliding quietly 
 but quickly away, was a noble male tiger. He was sleek and 
 glossy, being well fed on the village cattle which fell into 
 his hands — or rather claws. The feeling which is generally 
 experienced on first seeing the jungle monarch was also 
 shared by Hampton. He wondered and admired, and 
 almost forgot that he had to fire. A moment or two 
 sufficed to collect himself, and the ring of his rifle echoed 
 through the wood, but he has missed. Now Campbell sees 
 him, and he also fires, but the ball only buries itself in a 
 tree. The tiger has a charmed life, and is lucky in having 
 such heavy cover to hide himself in. He is driven out of 
 two or three heavy patches, and at last seems inclined to 
 make for the river. Tigers swim like otters, and if once 
 
EEALITIES OF IXDIAX LIFE. 129 
 
 he takes to the water he will make for one of the islands 
 and be lost. 
 
 The hunter nearest him, shouted to Campbell, "he is 
 going to swim for it, what shall we do ?" The elephants 
 could not be taken fast enough through the cover, to stop 
 this manoeuvre, at least not fast enough to please the 
 impetuous Campbell, he therefore, who ought to have 
 known better, made his animal kneel, jumped otf his back, 
 and rifle in hand rushed in pursuit. 
 
 " Follow me," he cried to those nearest him, and in a 
 moment Hampton and two others joined him. They clear 
 the trees. In front lies a hundred yards of sward smooth 
 as a bowling green. He is down tlie bank, no doubt, and 
 the first up, will get the best shot. All four race to the 
 spot. 
 
 'V\Tiat stops them in their breathless haste ? "What means 
 that broken exclamation of horror ? What, that slight 
 inch by inch recoil from some dread object in front ? The 
 men are close together in a little line. They glare at 
 something before them. 
 
 There ! just sunk under the bank, watching them with 
 his cold relentless eye is the tiger. He is motionless, but 
 for a convulsive twitching of his limbs. His lips are drawn 
 up over his shining fangs, in a horrid grin, the bristles of 
 his neck are stiff and erect. 
 
 Now gallant Englishman show your pluck ! now prove 
 that shoulder to shoulder, nothing mortal can make you 
 
 9 
 
130 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 flinch ! Now Hampton think of your gallant father, and 
 bear yourself as his son ought to do ! 
 
 Campbell was the bravest of the brave, and he knew the 
 result of the slightest symptoms of hesitation. Placing 
 himself firmly with one foot slightly advanced, he hoarsely 
 whispered, " Stand like men, don't waste your shot for 
 God's sake," when the tiger, with a gurgling roar, was on 
 them. Bang ! bang ! ! He rears in the air, tears at the 
 bullet wounds with his teeth, falls, but again writhes 
 forward in mortal agony. Bang ! bang ! ! four barrels 
 more. The blood and foam bubble from his mouth, a few 
 furious struggles, and he is dead ! ! ! 
 
 No cheers, no hurrah, silently the four men grasp each 
 others' hands, and draw a deep long breath. The bullet 
 marks are all there. Hampton, young as he was, was true 
 as steel, and his ball had gone straight as the rest. Campbell 
 put his hand on his shoulder and walked slowly back to 
 their elephants. " I was very wrong to lead you into such 
 u trap," he said, " and should never have forgiven myself if 
 anything bad happened to you, but it's over now, and you 
 have had a trial which never fell to my lot before." 
 
 The men on the right of the line on hearing the firing, 
 bad made to the river side also, but only in time to see 
 the tiger fall. 
 
 " That fellow Campbell will be killed some day," said 
 one of them ; but he was wrong, for after a few years' 
 sojourn in India, he returned to England still in the prime 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 131 
 
 of manhood, and is alive now to talk over his exploits in 
 the far East. The remainder of the village was beaten, 
 but the tigress and her cubs were not at home, and sooth 
 to say the events of the morning had cast a shade of gloom 
 over the party, and rendered them careless about the 
 matter. 
 
 " What say you to knock over some hares and par- 
 tridges?" said one of the party. 
 
 This was agreed to, and they shot their way home on 
 foot, making up a pretty good bag. The tiger had been 
 tied on a pad elephant, and arrived at Shikargurh before 
 the hunters, who were met some way from the bouse by 
 Mr. Besborough. 
 
 " What is all this I hear," said he, " about shooting 
 tigers on foot. Surely, Campbell, you were not such a 
 griff as to do so, especially with this youngster (pointing 
 to Hampton) under your care." 
 
 Campbell expressed his deep regret, but excused him- 
 self on the score of his not thinking the tiger was on land 
 at all, and after a few more remarks the subject was dropped. 
 
 Mr. Besborough seemed unwilling to go after any large 
 game for a day or two, so Hampton had an opportunity of 
 trying his skill with the fowling-piece on snipe, wild duck, 
 and other water-fowl which swarm in Bengal during the 
 cold weather. The ladies of the party made the afternoons 
 and evenings pass away pleasantly, with billiards, music or 
 dancing, and Hampton felt almost sorry that his lot had. 
 
132 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 not been cast among tlie planters, who seemed to lead such 
 a jovial life. 
 
 One morning, when the elder sportsmen seemed disin- 
 clined to hunt, and Mr. Besborough had some business to 
 settle, the younger guests proposed to take out all the dogs 
 they could muster, and have some amusement on foot in a 
 neighbouring village, which was of great extent and had 
 heavy coverts round it. Coolies with spades accompanied 
 them to dig up any jackals or other vermin which might be 
 found, and double-barrel fowling-piece in hand, the light- 
 hearted boys started. " Keep a bright look out for snakes," 
 said one of Hampton's companions, "we are very likely to 
 come across some to-day, especially if we stumble upon any 
 old ruins, so beware of putting your feet or hands into any 
 suspicious-looking holes." The dogs, belonging to a dozen 
 different masters, were of all breeds, from the little skye 
 terrier to the big mastiff, and the amount of fighting, 
 yelping, and snarling which ensued when they were let 
 loose, was appalling. " What on earth are we expected to 
 hunt with this extraordinary pack ?" said Hampton. " Oh, 
 nothing in particular, and everything in general," replied a 
 young fellow, who had been in the country a few months 
 only, " the great fun is, that you never know what may 
 turn up. It may be a thundering ' cobra capella,' a 
 iackal, or the dragon of Wantley that the dogs tackle, they 
 are not fastidious, and as we do not know what strange 
 monsters the jungle contains, there is great excitement 
 
REALITIES OE INDIA:N^ LIFE. 133 
 
 when the dogs find anythmg." "With some difficulty tlie 
 pack is turned into the cover ; masters follow ; coolies 
 begin to yell, dogs to bark, and the village resounds to the 
 hideous din. There is a great amount of creeping under 
 bushes, forcing their way through thorns, jumping over 
 hedges and ditches, and altogether it is very warm work. 
 
 After a while there is a short silence followed by a great 
 deal of scuffling about, and then the dogs seem to go mad al- 
 together. The hunters rush to the spot as fast as creepers 
 and thickets will allow, and find them collected under a 
 bushy tree, which a few of the most eager attempt to climb, 
 while some sit whining at its foot. No one could make 
 out what M^as the cause of the disturbance, till a cooly 
 forced his way through and examined the tree, and there, 
 trying to hide himself on a branch, was a large brindled 
 tiger-cat. These are formidable opponents to a dog single- 
 handed, but of course would have no chance against a pack. 
 After several unsuccessful attempts to dislodge the animal, 
 a couple of barrels of small shot send him flying into the 
 air, and the dogs soon finish him when he reaches the 
 ground. Again they are urged on, and this time the 
 barking is varied every now and then by a sudden cry of 
 pain. One little skye terrier runs up to Hampton with 
 his tail between his legs and whining piteously. On 
 stooping down to examine him, he finds a porcupine-quill 
 stuck an inch or so deep into his shoulder. After relieving 
 the poor little fellow, Hampton pushed forward, and there, 
 
134 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 with his back arched and every quill quivering on end, 
 stood the irate animal. The dogs were in a frantic state 
 round him, at a respectful distance, however, for no sooner 
 did they approach than they met with the same reception 
 as the little skye terrier. The coolies, having an eye to a 
 delicious roast, begged the gentleman to make him over to 
 them, which was readily agreed to, as the dogs were unable 
 to close with their bristling enemy. They were now 
 whipped off, and made for another part of the village, near 
 which was an old tank. After a while the dogs seemed to 
 have found something particularly exciting, and this time 
 the din is perfectly unearthly. 
 
 The youngster who had jokingly referred to dragons, 
 now shouted out, *' Here he is at last, Templemore, spikes 
 and tail all complete." 
 
 Hampton ran up, but started back at the hideous ap- 
 pearance of the creature before him. It was a large guana, 
 which, with tongue protruding and hissing loudly, was 
 making short charges at the dogs. He was seven feet long, 
 of a yellowish green colour, and seemed the link between 
 the lizard and the alligator. 
 
EEALITIES OF I^'DIAN LIFE. 135 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE CIVILIAIf's HrEDLE EACE BOAE HUNTING — ALLI- 
 
 GATOE FISHING — CALCUTTA BOTANICAL GAEDENS. 
 
 Aftee gazing their fill at the strange monster mentioned 
 in our last, he was left to the tender mercies of the coolies, 
 who doubtless cut him up and ate him at their evening 
 meal. The pack was called off, cigars were lighted, and 
 with torn clothes and dust-begrimed faces, our huntsmen 
 wended their way home. 
 
 The account of their adventures made Mr. Besborough 
 laugh not a little. 
 
 " You will soon tire of such vermin killing," he said to 
 Hampton, " but I used to be very fond of it myself when I 
 was a boy, and many a strange adventure I have had when 
 hunting on foot. I am surprised you did not come on a 
 leopard, as there are some in the village you were in to-day, 
 and if you had met one, a few of the dogs would have been 
 finished to a certainty." 
 
 Next morning was to be our hero's first experience of 
 hog-hunting, and his anxiety as to his own capabilities was 
 
136 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 not a little raised, when he heard of the prowess of the wild 
 boar of Bengal. 
 
 " Where do you intend to go ?" asked one of the guests 
 of his host after dinner. 
 
 *' Well," he said, " I am not very sure, but T think the 
 Hurree Shunker jungle will be the best. A good deal of it 
 is burnt and cut down by this time, and we may have some 
 decent riding ground. Last year we went there too early, 
 and could do tiothing." 
 
 Their host's motion was agreed to, and great was the 
 speculation as to the first spears that would be ridden for, 
 and the amount of disabled horses or riders there would be. 
 
 Hampton suited himself with a nice light weapon from 
 Mr. Besborough's armoury, and begged him to let him have 
 the same horse he had ridden before. 
 
 Mrs. Besborough was very unwilling that he should run 
 any more risks, after his dreadful encounter with the tiger, 
 but she was laughed out of her fears, and he promised to be 
 as careful of himself as he possibly could. 
 
 Next morning saw a gallantly mounted party cantering 
 gently to the jungle, to which the elephants had been sent 
 before day-break. The cover which was to be beaten by 
 them consisted for the most part of reeds, through which 
 they forced their ponderous bodies, bringing down large 
 masses to the ground. The crashing noise mingled with 
 their shrill trumpeting, was more than the pigs could stand, 
 and they began to run about in all directions, charging 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 137 
 
 through the line. At last a fine boar broke in front of the 
 horsemen. " Tally ho " was the cry, and they bound madly 
 across the plain. 
 
 The boar was a very fast one, and led them at best pace 
 over some very bad ground, in which the cut reeds stuck up 
 like sjjears, and it was lucky that he was not brought to 
 bay in this, or many a fine horse would have been injured. 
 
 Hampton was a light weight, and was in the front rank 
 of the riders. Grradually he found that he was creeping 
 ahead of the others. Taking a good pull at his horse's head 
 be urged him on gently but firmly. The noble Arab 
 answered to the call, and gained on the boar. A few more 
 yards and the first spear is his ; but not only must you ride 
 well, but you must have a practised hand, or you miss your 
 blow, and till blood is drawn the spear is not won. Hampton 
 wondered, as he closed on the boar, why he did not charge, 
 and when, at last he did, it was so suddenly, that the sj^ear 
 glanced over his back. The Arab bounded in the air, 
 jumped right over him, and thus saved himself, but Hampton 
 had lost the prize. He now took a pull at his horse to see 
 how the others got on. The next nearest hunter was an 
 experienced hand, and as he was charged, buried the spear 
 deep between the boar's shoulders. He now stood at bay, 
 and another novice, who, like Hampton, had come from 
 Calcutta, and was splendidly mounted on a very impetuous 
 English mare, rode like the wind at him. They met. In- 
 stead of gently holding out his spear, he waved it in the air 
 
138 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 and dashed it, as lie thought, into the boar, but, alas, his 
 want of skill and his flurry, made him lose his aim ; the 
 leaded spear, slightly over-balanced, went right through his 
 own leg above the ancle, and with a shriek of pain, he fell 
 headlong on the ground. 
 
 Besborough and the rest of the party were now after 
 another boar, and Hampton, with one or two who were near 
 him, took care of their wounded companion. Luckily among 
 the sportsmen there was a medical man who tied up the 
 injured leg, and the patient was taken home by him on one 
 of the elephants. Hampton then galloped on to see if he 
 could not have one more chance, and luckily for him, as the 
 second boar doubled, he came quite close to him. He was 
 now more cautious^and as the animal slightly slackened his 
 pace preparatory to his charge, he leaned a little over to the 
 right, poised his spear, held his horse well in hand, and at 
 the exact moment turned him aside while he delivered his 
 blow. 
 
 "Well done, Templemore," shouted Besborough, "you'll 
 be as good a rider as your uncle in time." 
 
 This boar had been slightly wounded before, so that Hamp. 
 ton could not claim his spear, but he was very well satisfied 
 with his performance on this his first day. 
 
 The third animal which broke cover was a small but very 
 nimble one, and none but the younger members of the party 
 thought it worth their while to ride him. Hampton, of 
 course, followed, and here, for the first time, came to 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 139 
 
 grief. As he was racing along neck and neck with another 
 light weight, he suddenly felt, as Marcus Quintius Curtius 
 must have done when he jumped into the chasm. His horse 
 sank from under him, he felt a tremendous shock, and turned 
 a somersault over his head. He had fallen into a pit used by 
 sugar-cane crushers to put their mill in. It was about ten 
 feet in diameter and some five feet deep, luckily it was 
 covered with long silky grass, which broke the horse and 
 rider's fall, and excepting a little sprain of his left shoulder, 
 our hero was none the worse. 
 
 His charger scrambled out of the hole and stood quiet 
 as a lamb till Hampton mounted him, and then rather 
 crestfallen walked him gently to where the main party were 
 assembled. 
 
 " Well, Templemore ; you've been down I see," said his 
 host; "NotMrt, I hope." 
 
 Hampton explained how his mishap had occurred, and 
 making a temporary sling for his arm, joined Mr. Besborough 
 and some others in riding quickly home, that gentleman being 
 anxious to know how it fared with his Calcutta friend. Some 
 of the hunters remained on the field, and five boars were 
 killed, which was considered not a bad morning's sport. 
 
 What with hunting, love-making, and good fellowship of 
 all kinds, the hunting week at Shikargurh passed by only too 
 quickly for the generality of those to whom such golden 
 hours were, alas ! not likely to come round again for many a 
 long day. The best of friends must, however, part, and things 
 
140 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 were packed up, and meetings for the future concocted prepa- 
 ratory to the final breakuig up of the meeting. All thoughts 
 of sport had given way to sad and silent regrets, when just as 
 the batchelors were preparing for dinner, in walked Besborough 
 amongst them, and asked them to defer their departure for a 
 day, and join him in a fishing party, on a grand scale, next 
 morning. Every one of course volunteered, and their host 
 explained the matter. 
 
 *' You see, I have a large fishery in the Nebis Khally Lake, 
 and this year, a rascally man-eating alligator has got in from 
 the Granges, and after eating all the fish, by George, he is 
 trying his hand on the poor villagers. They have been to 
 me an hour ago, and report one man, a woman, and a child, 
 as having fallen victims already to the greedy brute. They 
 say also that he watches at the principal bathing places, and 
 no one dares to go near the water. What say you to try and 
 catch him alive ? I have had a proper hook and line made 
 and we can go to-morrow and spend the forenoon in trying to 
 rid the country of such a pest. We might shoot him, but 
 they say he is very wary, and we could not fire indiscrimi- 
 nately in a place surrounded by villagers. " 
 
 After an early breakfast, a motley group of ladies, gentle- 
 men, natives of all sorts in a variety of costumes, on horses, 
 elepljants, and in toujons (open chairs), start for the lake, 
 which is really a beautiful one, and deserves description. At 
 some remote period it had been a reach of a large river, but as 
 is the history of all such places in Lower Bengal, the alluvial 
 
BEALITIES OF I^'DIAX LIFE. 141 
 
 deposit borne down by the Ganges had raised the whole 
 country, and turned the river into a series of lakes. The 
 luxuriant vegetation of the tropics soon changed the banks 
 from a barren waste to thickly wooded scenery, and the now 
 flourishing villages have brought with them the fruit-bearing 
 mango and graceful tamarind. The peepul and banian hang 
 over its banks, throwing a deep shade on the clear sweet 
 water, forming numberless bowers where the much-guarded 
 Hindoo maiden may bathe unseen. The cooing of the plain- 
 tive turtle-dove vies with the notes of the coqueel, the bird of 
 Indian lovers, while the loud tap of the woodpecker surprises 
 the European, who may never have heard its magical per- 
 formance.* 
 
 A shady spot is selected for the ladies on the banks of the 
 lake, where they can see some of the sport, and the gentlemen 
 leave them awhile to go and superrntend preliminaries. A 
 live goat is to be the bait used to attract bis alligatorship, 
 and the hook is attached carefully to its side by numerous 
 tine strings. To the hook is joined, not one rope, but for the 
 first yard, about fifty pieces of twine, which cannot be bitten 
 in two, as they separate when the teeth close on them. To 
 the twine is added some sixty yards of thin rope, and lastly a 
 large plantain tree is attached as a float, so that if the alliga- 
 tor takes to deep water his whereabouts can always be guessed 
 by the tale-telling tree. 
 
 • This little bird can be heard on a still day for, I should say, a mile 
 •r more. 
 
142 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 All the tranquillity and charm of the spot had been 
 rudely disturbed by the advent of the much-dreaded alli- 
 gator, and even the apathetic Bengalee was thoroughly 
 roused to a sense of the unpleasantness of the situation. 
 Besborough and his party soon reach the spot where their 
 game lies hid. The goat is brought up, squalling most 
 plaintively, and is attached to the hook. A native fisher- 
 man quietly glides down the bank, takes all the fishing 
 apparatus into his canoe, and paddles noiselessly to the 
 opposite shore which is the most unfrequented. The goat 
 still keeps up his unavailing remonstrance, and as it reaches 
 half way across the lake, say two hundred yards, one of 
 Besborough's servants hurriedly touches his shoulder, and 
 points with starting eyes to a black spot in the water. His 
 master sees it, and with a quiet " Hush, gentlemen ; no 
 talking," they all lie flown, peering over the bank with 
 breathless attention. There, sure enough, are six inches of 
 his forehead and his two protruding eyes. How he heard the 
 goat from under water I know not, I relate the fact as it 
 happened ; but it was evidently its bleating which brought 
 him from his lair. After a minute's survey he sinks again 
 out of sight. The fisherman reaches the other bank, coils 
 his line on the trunk of the plantain tree, pegs down the 
 goat near the water, and paddles away down the lake. 
 Besborough and his friends strain their eyes almost to 
 blindness, watching for the slightest sign of a *' bite," but 
 the sun rises higher and higher, and they are still watchers. 
 
EEALITIES OF IXDIAX LIFE. 143 
 
 A little more patience is generally agreed to when again one 
 of the eagle-eyed natives whispers, " There he is, to the south 
 of the goat." Many of the party could hardly make out the 
 little black object pointed to, amidst the drift wood and 
 other flotsams and jetsams which the wind is taking over to 
 that side to-day, but they are not long in doubt. Creeping 
 silently as the lizard does on to the fly, he closes to within 
 springing, or rather rushing, distance of his victim, A 
 splash of water, a faint sound of snapping teeth, and the 
 goat is gone as if by magic. In a few minutes the water 
 parts at the same spot, and the now triumphant monster 
 drags half his body on the shelving bank, with the dead goat 
 hanging from his mouth like a tassel. A dozen fierce 
 shakes, a wide opening of the jaws, and down goes master 
 Billy like a pill. A rifle ball soon conveys the unwelcome 
 intelligence to him that his meal must be digested elsewhere, 
 and sinking back into the water, the frightened beast swims 
 away. 
 
 "Now we will see if he is hooked," said Besborough. 
 
 Coil after coil of the line glides into the depths, and, 
 hurrah ! there goes the plantain tree, like a small frigate 
 majestically down the lake. Now there is no holding anybody. 
 Out of every creek and bay canoes laden with natives come 
 paddling across the lake. The women, forgetting their usual 
 painful mock modesty, come round the spot where they think 
 the alligator may be hauled on shore, some waddling along 
 with their little ones seated monkey-fashion on their hips. 
 
144 
 
 *' Kill him ; tear him to pieces," is the cry, and the air re- 
 sounds with the abuse heaped upon the pubhc enemy. 
 
 A canoe draws up to the float, and laughing till his teeth 
 shine again, one of the fishermen shews the admiring spectators 
 by pulling the line, that it's all right down there, adding a 
 little pantomine of his own, expressive of the state of the alli- 
 gator's stomach, by hum.orously rubbing his own. A gentle 
 pull suffices to bring him along to a shallow bay, where he is 
 quickly surrounded by double nets. The natives think he is 
 now safe, and as he throws his head and shoulders out of the 
 water, snapping terribly at the rope, one of the most coura- 
 geous sidles his canoe up and tries to plant a harpoon in his 
 head, but it bounds off as it would from iron. The alligator, 
 maddened by the blow, rears up and throws himself backwards 
 right across the canoe ; out go the occupants head foremost 
 into the mud and water, and the alligator changes places with 
 them. After a little rolHng and struggling he slips into the 
 water and dashes through the nets as if they were cobwebs. 
 Besborough sees that the white man must come to the rescue, 
 and orders the line once more to be pulled in. Again the 
 alligator touches the ground, and as he fiercely shakes his 
 head out of water, a rifle ball or two in the neck finish his 
 career. With one hissing roar he rolls over and is at once 
 dragged on shore by half a hundred excited villagers. He is 
 tied on bamboos, and taken to be shown to the ladies, and 
 from thence to Shikargurh. He is there cut open and in his 
 stomach are found some human bones, the bracelets of the 
 
KEALITTES OF INDIAN LIFE. 145 
 
 woman and child, a few turtles' heads, and the goat which he 
 had lately swallowed. Great was the glee of all at the suc- 
 cessful ending of their fishing party, and Besborough was 
 voted unanimously to he the king of all hosts, past, present, 
 or future. The bracelets were sent home to England by one 
 of the ladies, to a relative, on whose drawing-room table they 
 are conspicuously displayed at the present day. 
 
 We must now leave Hampton Templemore to find his way 
 back to Calcutta, after bidding a reluctant adieu to his host 
 and hostess, and accompany Mrs. Templemore to the grand 
 hurdle race, which our readers may remember was talked of 
 at Mrs. Blandon's "At home." It was not to be one of your 
 common-place affairs, got up by the poor young officers at 
 Barrackpore or Dumdum. No, no ! This was to be a much 
 more aristocratic thing altogether. All the elite of the Civil 
 Service were expected. The riders were to be young civilians. 
 Their jackets and caps had been got up by a committee of 
 ladies, (after a world of trouble and anxiety) regardless of ex- 
 pense. They were of red, blue, yellow, green, and white silk. 
 But the startling characteristic of the costume consisted in 
 a broad ribbon of contrasting colour placed across the breast 
 in imitation of the order of the Bath or G-arter. The horses 
 were the property of civilians, and the very hurdles were made 
 of bran new mats. 
 
 Drawn up in dazzling array before the grand stand of the 
 Calcutta race course, might be seen the carriages of those 
 
 well-known members of the nobility, the Hogyns Mogyns,- 
 
 10 
 
146 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 the De Robinsons, the Flushingtons, the Toodaws, and 
 last, though not least, Montmorency Struggles. This gentle- 
 man came up to Mrs. Templemore's carriage and shed a few 
 beams of radiance on its occupants. 
 
 "Aha, Miss Templemore," he was pleased to observe, 
 " glad to see you out so early in the morning ; 'tis the only 
 plan to preserve your roses. Hope I shall meet you at 
 Mrs. Blandon's fete to-morrow. We shall have a charming 
 race this morning. Sure to be well-ridden, as the men are 
 all in our service. I must go and see them weighed. Good 
 morning." 
 
 Some of the young ladies and their chaperones were in a 
 state of ecstatic delight, laughing and joking merrily, till they 
 found out that the Hogyn Mogyn girls, who led the fashion, 
 were almost in tears at the thought of any of the " dear young 
 fellows being ki-ki-killed," as Julia Hogyn Mogyn, (who 
 stuttered a little) called it, and then sentiment became the 
 order of the day. 
 
 The famous Mrs. Macaroon was there, betting dozens of 
 gloves with everybody, and inflaming the hearts of the sus- 
 ceptible by the tender glances she threw on them. She had 
 made three little attempts to run away from her husband, but 
 being rather fickle, tired of the novelty, and managed to get 
 back before that good man, (who was wholly absorbed in his 
 new work "on the structure of the cockroach's wing") had 
 missed her much, and as he seemed perfectly satisfied, it 
 was only looked on as a little eccentricity on her part, except 
 
EEALITIES or I^^'DIAN LIFE. 147 
 
 perhaps bj^ the very strict portion of the community. At any 
 rate, she was received into society. 
 
 Of course Conrad Daymer was present, and installed himself 
 as explainer-general of the proceedings to Laura. 
 
 "You see there are six hurdles, Miss Templemore, three 
 feet and a half high, and the horses have to go all round the 
 course. The favorite is an English horse, but as he is heavily 
 weighted, some of the little Arabs may beat him." 
 
 All the preliminaries of weighing, and saddling, and blowing 
 
 of bugles, being finished, the riders emerged from the weigh- 
 
 insr enclosure and cantered down in front of the stand. The 
 o 
 
 almost painfully scientific attitudes assumed by the would-be 
 jockeys, were delicious. Their new buckskins must have 
 been sown on to their limbs, their new boots were shiny as 
 looking-glasses, and their new saddles and bridles were spot- 
 ess. None of these gay cavaliers were very experienced 
 hurdle-race riders, in fact, they had never done such a thing 
 in their lives before. They were all very beardless, and at 
 what might be called the curly and fluffy-whiskered age. A 
 common observer might have been inclined to think that 
 they had unusually slippery seats, and that on leaning for- 
 ward as jockeys do, they looked very much inclined to clasp 
 their horses round the neck ; but this view was onl}^ that of 
 ordinary mortals. It must not be forgotten that these young 
 men belonged to a service that could anything, and therefore 
 why not ride hurdle-races, of course, why not ? 
 
 All eyes were strained to make out the different riders as 
 
148 EASTWAllDS, OE 
 
 they formed in line. There is a great inclination on the 
 part of two or three of the horses to start tail first, and young 
 Hogyn Mogyn was once clasped in young De Robinson's arms 
 when their steeds would jumble up together, but at last, 
 yes ! they are off! 
 
 They dashed past at full gallop. The first hurdle is a little 
 way past the Stand. They reach it ! Every young lady shuts 
 her eyes and shrieks faintly. One was distinctly heard to 
 scream out " Edward !" There is a tremendous melee, three 
 of the riders are in front of their saddles, and the rest have 
 then' feet out of their stiiTups or are going through some other 
 little performance of the kind. There is a great deal of slash- 
 ing of whips and sawing of horses' mouths, but not one horse 
 has cleared the jump ! This was an intolerable state of things. 
 The riders were gentlemen although vain ones, and the hot 
 blood mounted to their faces as they felt the eyes of the 
 spectators burning holes in their gay silk coats. But it was 
 no use, the horses were perfectly untrained, and had, more- 
 over, found out that none of their masters could ride. Re- 
 fusing a leap is a catching disease, and never proved more so 
 than on this occasion. 
 
 Again and again an attempt is made, but only results in 
 young Elushington being made to stand on his head in the 
 most ignominious manner. Some of the gentlemen specta- 
 tors, amongst whom were some really good riders, began to 
 laugh. The Lieut. -Governor's carriage drove off. Others 
 gloomily followed. T}iat hurdle race was never talked of in 
 
EEALITTES OF INDIAN LIFE. 149 
 
 polite circles. It was, we are almost afraid to record it, a 
 failure ! Only one horseman, goaded to desperation, got his 
 steed over the first jump, and then flew pluckity over the rest. 
 The others were nowhere. 
 
 Laura Templemore had seen Conrad nearly every day 
 since his arrival in Calcutta, and the knowledge that he was 
 likely to be a partaker of her pleasures, shed a lustre over 
 things which otherwise would have been but common-place. 
 Her aunt never now referred to Captain Desmond, and that 
 gentleman seemed rather to avoid meeting her, since her can- 
 did avowal at Mrs. Blandon's. He had not, however, given 
 up all hope, and trusted to the chapter of accidents to afford 
 him an opportunity of some day gaining a place in her affec- 
 tions. He had spoken a few words to her at the hurdle race, 
 expressive of the pleasure he would experience at the next 
 day's fete at the Botanical Grardens, but he was in no way 
 marked in his attention. A lover's quick eye could, however, 
 see that there was something constrained in Laura's manner, 
 as long as Captain Desmond was by her side, and Conrad 
 felt the first pang of jealousy creep across his heart, when, 
 on his questioning her, she blushed and hesitated slightly. 
 
 " Captain Desmond came out with me," she said, " and 
 some of the ladies thought him handsome, but I do not like 
 his manner, although he is, doubtless, very accomplished." 
 
 Conrad too thought him very good looking, and instinc- 
 tively marked him out as his rival. 
 
 ''You have not promised to walk in the garden with him 
 
150 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 to-morrow," said lie in alow tone as he leant over the side of 
 the carriage. 
 
 " I have not," she replied, " but really, Mr. Daymer, I do 
 not see why I should refuse to do so." She was piqued at 
 Conrad's tone, and woman-like thought she would teach him 
 a lesson. But alas, hers was but a very soft nature, and 
 when she saw him turn away from her, she would have given 
 a great deal to recall the petulant speech. He said no more, 
 but, bidding the ladies adieu, walked away from the spot. 
 
 Laura drove home absorbed in thought, and had little 
 heart to enjoy a visit to the different shops which her aunt 
 had proposed to visit during the morning, although she 
 could not help being amused at the strange contrast to 
 those she had been accustomed to in England, presented 
 by the Exchange, and the different millinery establish- 
 ments where the beauty and fashion of Calcutta loved to 
 spend their mornings. At the first of the above-named 
 places, which is an omnium gatherum of every species of 
 merchandise, our heroine noticed with surprise the durwans 
 or door-keepers with their caste-marked faces, and on 
 reaching the grand saloon which is up-stairs, instead of trim 
 neatly dressed shopwomen, found it lined by natives dressed 
 in turbans and white muslin robes who were ready to 
 supply her wants whatever they might be. Many of these 
 men were strapping moustached fellows, and the idea of 
 asking them for some of the little articles which men are 
 not supposed to know anything about, was so ridiculous, 
 
EEALITIES OF I^^DIA:N^ LIFE. 151 
 
 that she could cot help laughing merrily. " My dear aunt, 
 I cannot ask that fierce-looking man about the silk 
 stockings I require, I cannot indeed, so if it must be done 
 I leave the matter to you." " Oh," replied Mrs. Temple- 
 more, " poor Gunga Baboo is a most inoffensive man, and 
 you will hear what capital English he talks. Here, Baboo, 
 I want some silk stockings for the Miss Baba." 
 
 "We are sorry we cannot do justice to the Baboo's 
 English, but Laura could not help turning away every now 
 and then, and laughing heartily, for the difference between 
 the man's appearance and the subject of his conversation, 
 was so great that it was utterly absurd. In time English- 
 women become accustomed to natives, and treat them as 
 if they were not men at all, but little do they know the real 
 hearts of these cunning sycophants, and it is lucky that the 
 remarks made by them about our unsuspecting country- 
 women are not generally known. Erom the Exchange our 
 friends drove to one of the Erench modistes in Chowringhee, 
 which was not like a shop at all, but consisted of a suite of 
 rooms in one of the large dwelling-houses of that aristocratic 
 quarter, furnished with glass-covered cases in which were 
 displayed ribbons and laces in charming array. The glass 
 cases are, alas, a necessity, and not merely ornamental, in 
 the damp climate of Bengal, for silks or ribbons if at all ex- 
 posed, are mined in a few hours, and woe be to the innocent 
 English bride who lays in a store of gloves, for if they are 
 not hermetically sealed they are of all the colours of the 
 
152 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 rainbow in one week of tlie rains. Althougli it was the cold 
 weather season the sun became oppressively hot in the 
 dusty streets of the town, and our heroine was glad to find 
 herself on the road home, with the prospect of an hour or 
 two of rest in her own room, where she might think quietly 
 over the events of the morning. 
 
 "You look tired and pale, Laura," said her aunt, as they 
 drove home, *' I must not keep you out in the sun shopping 
 so long, or we shall have you laid up with fever, and that 
 will never do during the gay season. Tou must to bed 
 early to-night, and be ready to enjoy yourself thoroughly 
 to-morrow." 
 
 In the evening she vainly looked for Conrad amongst 
 the riders on the strand, but he was not to be seen, and she 
 could not extend the hand of forgiveness which she had 
 intended to do at their very first meeting. 
 
 The morning of Mrs. Blandon's party proved a most 
 propitious one, and conveyances were to be seen leaving all 
 parts of the town at the appointed hour. The programme 
 of the route was as follows : Ladies and gentlemen were 
 to meet opposite the garden, and then to cross the river 
 in sundry pinnaces and bhauleahs, which were to be in 
 waiting. After the amusements of the day were over, all 
 were to re-embark, and float up with the tide in the evening. 
 
 The botanical gardens of Calcutta are situated in the 
 most beautiful part of Garden Reach, on the opposite side of 
 the river to the town. This is a great drawback, for the 
 
REALITIES OF IXDIAN LIEE. 153 
 
 Hooghly is at all times, and especially at the period of the 
 freshes, a very dangerous river for boats. • The tides run at a 
 tremendous pace, the stream is crowded with large ships, and 
 to add to other bad qualities, the bore rushes up at the com- 
 mencement of the flood, with racehorse speed. 
 
 Since the river has been so crowded and the primitive man- 
 ners of the residents have been so much changed, parties to 
 the gardens have nearly gone out of vogue, but at the time 
 we write of, a few used to come ofi" in the cold season. A 
 more beautiful place could not be selected for a fete champetre, 
 for here have been collected from all corners of the tropics, 
 trees and flowers of the most fantastic or beautiful growth. 
 Parties picnicked under the shady trees, as in England, with 
 this slight difference that mighty tables were spread and 
 chairs were used, while dancing was carried on in a covered 
 room built for the purpose. 
 
 Laura was dehghted to find Conrad ready to assist her to 
 land, and to see that the shade which had been cast over him 
 at their last meeting had passed away. Perhaps his bright 
 face was only a reflex of her own, for she was indeed glad to be 
 once more near him, with the prospect of a delightful ramble 
 through the beautiful garden which presented to them so 
 many strange objects of admiration. " You will walk with me, 
 Miss Templemore, will you not ?" said her lover, and hardly 
 waiting for an answer, he asked Mrs. Templemore's permission 
 to take her niece on an exploring expedition. Neither of the 
 youthful pair had seen ought of India that was repulsive. 
 
154! EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 To them tlie shady wood brought no thoughts of wasting 
 fever ; hidden to them was the deadly snake coiled up in 
 yonder thicket. The brilliant sky could surely never change 
 to the darkness of the storm-laden season, the balmy breeze 
 had nothing in it to warn them of the scorching winds of the 
 Indian summer. 
 
 Conrad only saw before him, beautiful and blooming, the 
 lovely English girl with whom were associated all the ten- 
 derest feelings of kindred and native land. She looked up 
 and felt that with him no place could be dreary, no situation 
 trying. And thus in their own bright fairy land they wan- 
 dered on, happy, thrice happy. 
 
 '*Do you know. Miss Templemore," he said to her, "that 
 I think India is peculiarly the country to bring out a man's 
 better nature. We all feel that we are pilgrims in a foreign 
 land, and surrounded as we are by the native population, cling 
 to our own countrymen in a way not understandable by peo- 
 ple in England." 
 
 Laura had indeed felt the truth of this remark, and could 
 not help saying " Yes, and then only think how much more 
 these feelings must be intensified in my case, who am an or- 
 phan, and who, should my uncle go home, w^ould only have 
 my brother to protect me. He too might be called away by 
 duty, to places where I could not follow." 
 
 " Do not say, dear Laura, that you would have only 
 Hampton as your protector, I pray you think of me as a 
 second brother, as one who is ready to devote his every 
 
REALITIES or INDIAN LIFE. 155 
 
 thouglit and action for your welfare, and will only be too 
 well rewarded if you will deign some day, when he has de- 
 served it, to allow him to call himself by a warmer, dearer 
 title than even brother, your true, your loving" 
 
 The sentence was stopped by a great puffing and blowing 
 behind them, which announced Montmorency Struggles. 
 
 "I have been sent for you, Miss Templemore, by your 
 aunt ; we are all going to see some native Juggling under 
 the banyan tree, and she begs you to come as quickly as 
 possible." 
 
 Poor Conrad wished Mr. Struggles at the bottom of the 
 Hooghly, but go they must. They therefore joined Mrs. 
 Blandon and the other guests under the far-famed Banian* 
 tree, which spreads over a large extent of ground, and being 
 protected, is more perfect in its arcades of pendent trunks, 
 than is generally the case in open villages where the cattle 
 constantly browse on their soft rooted ends, and thus pre- 
 vent them reaching the ground. 
 
 The Calcutta one is a very fine specimen, but there are 
 some known only to a few old Indians, which would exhaust 
 our vocabulary of superlatives if we tried to describe them. 
 One is at Colgong, some two hundred and fifty miles north of 
 Calcutta, and two others are in the district of Tirhoot. Under 
 one of the last a fair is lield. It is called " Kuttay Thacoor," 
 from a shrine which is built under its central trunk, and 
 
 * There is no such native name as Banian. The tree is the Ficiis 
 
156 EASTWAEDS, OE 
 
 covers four acres of ground without a break. It is perfectly 
 mushroom shaped, so intensely thick that a splendid shade is 
 afforded under its green canopy on the hottest day, and the 
 ground underneath is beautifully clean and free from under- 
 growth of any kind. 
 
 The jugglers whom Laura was called to see were of the 
 wild race called Nutts, the gipsies of India. 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAIS" LIFE. 157 
 
 CHAPTEE IX. 
 
 INDIAN JUGGLEES — WRECKED IN THE HOOGHLT 
 
 STRUGGLES PROPOSES. 
 
 I^' oui' last, our heroine had been summoned to witness 
 the performance of a party of gipsies, who are generally acro- 
 bats and jugglers by profession. Their matted locks, large 
 necklaces made of beads, shells, tigers' teeth, and other 
 charms, gave them a particularly strange look. In real 
 sleight of hand and dexterity they far excelled their Euro- 
 pean brethren of the magic art, having no aid from appa- 
 ratus, clothing, or confederates, and yet they made eggs and 
 stones and birds disappear and reappear in the most extra- 
 ordinary manner, being surrounded all the time by a circle of 
 spectators, and being nearly naked down to the waist. This 
 party did not profess to be masters of some of the almost 
 incredible feats which have been (truthfully or not) recorded 
 of Indian wizards, but some of their displays were, we think, 
 sufficiently startling, their peculiar excellence consisting in 
 their being the results of long practice and unrivalled delicacy 
 of hand and keenness of eye. 
 
 The first was called the '* Cheerea-ki-shikar," or bird-shoot- 
 
158 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 ing. One of tlie men balanced a wooden representation of a 
 tree with ten branches, on his nose. He then placed an arti- 
 ficial bird on the end of a skewer with his hands, transferred 
 it to his mouth, and with his lips and tongue only, stuck the 
 bird on one of the above branches. He did this ten times, 
 and then shook them about to show their perfect balance. 
 He now dropped ten shots into his mouth, placed a tin spout 
 between his lips, and without using his hands, knocked the 
 ten birds off the ten branches, each with a single shot. 
 
 The sportsman now gave place to a performer with the 
 sword. His first act was to send for a packet of the soft 
 milky 'leaves of the native plant called the " Bhenda." 
 These he counted, and muttered some incantation over, finally 
 tying them up with a blade of grass into a roll. A boy was 
 ordered to lie down flat on his back on the grass, and the 
 roll was placed on his naked abdomen. The man now un- 
 sheathed a bright native tulwar, or scimetar, and with out- 
 stretched arm balanced himself over him. He waved the 
 sword twice or thrice in the air, and then with a sharp cut 
 brought it down on the leaves. The ladies were very much 
 alarmed, and begged that this might be the last of this species 
 of display, but the man only smiled, and took round the 
 little packet to show that it had been fairly cut in two, while 
 there was not even a mark on the boy. 
 
 A little girl now stepped forward and requested the audience 
 to observe a novel way of stringing beads. She put a hand- 
 ful of these of the smallest description into her mouth, and 
 
EEALITIES or IXDIA^-^ LIFE. 159 
 
 tlien, holding a horse-hair between her teeth, began rapidly 
 to thread them with her tongue and lips, each following the 
 other to the knotted end of the hair, which hung to the ground. 
 
 The next trick demanded an immense amount of dexterity. 
 A large top was spun iu the air, and then caught in the palm 
 of the hand, never having touched the ground. It was then 
 transferred from the hand to the thumb nail, and from this to 
 the end of a slip of bamboo, which bent into the segment of 
 a circle. This was then balanced on the forehead, and the 
 top was kept spinning for an indefinite time. 
 
 The entertainment closed by one of the women being en- 
 veloped in a cloth, which in a few seconds was withdrawn and 
 discovered her seated in the air, over the point of a sword, the 
 hilt of which rested on the ground. One of her hands leant 
 on a stick, and this was the actual point of support, but the 
 situation of the woman appeared so unpleasantly dangerous, 
 that it had the effect of making all the ladies leave the spot 
 rather abruptly. This trick was the only one in which ap- 
 paratus was used, and the modus operandi is understood in 
 Europe. 
 
 Numerous sources of amusement kept the company in an 
 agreeable state of excitement till their appetite warned them 
 that time was passing, and it was pleasant to see the unani- 
 mity of purpose displayed in making for the grove, in which 
 the luncheon, laid out with enchanting elegance, invited all 
 to come and approve. If they were merry from the com- 
 bined influences of the cloudless day, agreeable society and 
 
160 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 brilliant music, what were they after the iced champagne ? 
 Montmorency Struggles was in his glory. He had found a 
 chicken ''mayonnaise/* which exactly suited his refined 
 taste. He had washed it down with imperial Clicquot. 
 Sweet Laura Templemore was sitting opposite to him. 
 Could life be viewed under a more charming aspect ? 
 
 Reader, have you ever seen a large " cobra " fed with frogs ? 
 With sparkling eye and arched neck, he gloats over his vic- 
 tim, and yet he seems stupid, for he gloats and gloats, but 
 delays his spring so long, that you get tired of him. We say 
 it with all due respect, but the look of Struggles and of the 
 snake were identical. 
 
 Laura felt a strange fascination creep over her when, ever 
 and anon, as her eyes involuntarily turned in his direction, 
 she saw he was staring still. She thought he meant some- 
 thing, and she was right. He was debating how he could 
 devour his froggy, that is to say, he intended to ask her to 
 walk with him, and then propose. But the proposal — there's 
 the rub. Was it to be business-like — this kind of thing — heart 
 and hand ; thousand a year ; settlement ; carriage and jewels ; 
 
 Miss Templemore ; Madam ? Or was he to sink down 
 
 on his knees, and do the youthful lover ? He was fearfully 
 perplexed. Suppose he was caught on his knees. He was 
 stout — suppose he could not get up again easily. The thought 
 made him perspire. He wiped his forehead. A glass or two 
 of champagne will set all right. It does and he advances to 
 begin the action. 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 161 
 
 Laura of course could not refuse to walk with him till the 
 dancing commenced, and casting a serio-comic look at Con- 
 rad, who was sitting next her, she placed her hand on his 
 paternal arm, and glided away. We shall follow. They 
 sauntered on till they reached a very retired portion of the 
 grounds, and after a few common places, which greatly re- 
 lieved Laura's mind, her companion seemed suddenly to be 
 attacked with a combination of bronchitis and asthma, and 
 was painfully silent. She felt his arm tremble. 
 
 *' Do you admire veri/jonng men ? " he at last rather spas- 
 modically asked. "Do you admire very young — inexperienced 
 — foolish you know — boys, in fact, you know. Miss Temple- 
 more ? " 
 
 Laura said she rather hated that class of the Queen's 
 subjects. 
 
 '* Ah ! " he said, '' I thought so; the late Mrs. Struggles 
 thought so, and all sensible women do the same. You are 
 aware, I .dare say, my dear Miss Templemore, that I am very 
 well off ; rich in fact, you know ; Company's paper, and all 
 that sort of thing. I have a splendid place at Khosamud- 
 pore, and by Jove, (here his asthma left) my cook and khan- 
 sumah are treasures. And yet I am unhappy — ahem ! " — 
 
 It was Laura's turn now to be slightly asthmatic, and she 
 coughed. 
 
 *' Yes, I am unhappy (he seized her hand), very unhappy, 
 
 unless you choose to make me otherwise, Miss Templemore. 
 
 May I presume to call you dearest Miss Templemore ? Will 
 
 11 
 
162 " EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 you ?- that is to say, can you? — in fact, may I have the 
 honour ? — that is, will you marry me ? " 
 
 None of the trees fell down, the earth remained unopened, 
 and yet Struggles had proposed ! 
 
 Laura felt sorry for his false position. "Mr. Struggles," 
 she said, kindly but firmly, " I appreciate the compliment you 
 have paid me, but I can never marry you ! " 
 
 Still the trees retained their equilibrium, the earth trem- 
 bled not, and yet Struggles was refused. He felt hot, then 
 cold, and then hot again. With five lacs of rupees, a man in 
 the prime of life (fifty), who had so often been complimented 
 on his looks, refused by that chit-— well ! 
 
 " Madam ! " he said, with a state of deportment worthy of 
 Mr. Turveydrop. " Madam, let us return to the dancing- 
 room." 
 
 Laura was not a little agitated by the events of the day, 
 and was glad to sit down by her aunt to recover herself. She 
 wondered how she would receive the news, on their return 
 home, of her refusal of Mr. Struggles, but her courage re- 
 vived when she thought that Conrad would never desert her. 
 
 Captain Desmond, who was one of the party, but had 
 rather kept aloof from Laura, now came and asked her to 
 dance. He seemed in bad spirits, and she could not help ob- 
 serving the great change in his manner, and also that he 
 looked haggard and ill. He only once spoke to her. 
 
 "I am afraid," he said, "the last time we met at Mrs. 
 Blandon's, I must have displeased you by mentioning a sub- 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 163 
 
 ject which I ought to have refrained from alluding to, I 
 deeply regret my mistake, and trust you will forgive me. 
 If you ever think of Frank Desmond let it be, at least, with 
 kindly feelings." 
 
 Laura was relieved, when he left her, and although she 
 felt a certain womanly gratification in the interest which 
 such a general favorite as Captain Desmond had evinced, 
 yet with that feeling was mingled a sense of dread which 
 some men seem to have a fatal gift of inspiring in women. 
 
 The dancing lasted till the evening; the guests were 
 delighted with the fete, and mid jokes and laughter, em- 
 barked on board the difierent boats which were to take them 
 back to town. 
 
 We may here mention that in former days Pinnaces, 
 Eudgerows, and Bhauleahs were universally used in going up 
 country, and to all the stations of Bengal, which are generally 
 situated on one of the numerous rivers intersecting that pro- 
 vince. Steamers, wheeled carriages, and now the railway, 
 have of course finished the career of these slow but comfort- 
 able conveyances, but at the time of our story, a few still 
 lingered at the different Grhauts, and were generally in a ter- 
 ribly rotten and leaky state. Paint and putty will do won- 
 ders, however, and in the cold weather, the old tubs were 
 made to look quite gay. The pinnaces were of ten to 
 twenty tons burden, schooner rigged; the budgerows were 
 something like the Lord Mayor's State Barge, and the bhau- 
 leahs similar in shape, only smaller. 
 
164 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 Mrs, Templemore, with a few of her most intimate friends, 
 took possession of the largest pinnace, called the Monarch, a 
 big heavy old craft, which pulled four sweeps. Among her 
 party were Conrad Daymer and Captain Desmond, who, with 
 Laura and some of her young companions, had chairs on the 
 upper deck or roof, while the elder ladies sat in the state 
 cabin. The Monarch took the lead, and with a great splash- 
 ing of oars and singing of native songs, the little fleet steered 
 up the river with the flood tide, which was about half spent. 
 The journey was only one of half-an-hour's duration ; the 
 slow progress, therefore, of the boats was rather agreeable 
 than otherwise, as it enabled those on board to see both 
 banks of the river, with their picturesque villas and gardens, 
 while every now and then they glided past some majestic ship, 
 from the decks of which the duty-restrained oflicers looked 
 over longingly at the merry company floating past them. 
 
 '* This boat seems to answer her helm very badly," said 
 Captain Desmond to Conrad. " We passed a great deal too 
 close to that last buoy ; don't you think so ?" 
 
 Conrad assented, and they tried to explain to the serang, 
 (native Captain) that he ought to steer better, but the 
 advice was lost upon the man, and he seemed quite satisfied 
 with the boat's performance. He knew perfectly well that 
 it was a dangerous task to guide such an old broken-backed 
 ark through the shipping, but native-like, he trusted to 
 destiny . more than to his own exertions. The Bengalees, 
 moreover, are almost amphibious, and the matter of swimming 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAK LIFE. 165 
 
 a mile or two is nothing to them ; they are therefore per- 
 fectly reckless on their own rivers. 
 
 The boats had hitherto kept in the middle of the stream, 
 but now had to cross to the Calcutta side. This involved 
 threading their way through the ships, which were anchored 
 closer and closer together. The rapid tide surged against 
 the double chains of the heavy merchantmen, making the 
 turbid waves rise a foot in front of their cutwaters. The 
 Monarch pulled behind the stern of one vessel, and attempted 
 to clear the bows of the next, but she was going too slowly 
 to attain her object. It was evident, notwithstanding the 
 frantic efforts of the boatmen, that she was dropping broad- 
 side on to the chain cable. 
 
 A cry arises from all, as they near the towering bows of 
 the ship. Desmond and Daymer rushed to the sweeps, but 
 it was too late ; with one heavy roll, the ill-fated pinnace 
 becomes firmly fixed on the chains. The tide now presses 
 her till her old timbers crack again. They give way in a 
 dozen places, and the water rushes into her hold and cabins. 
 She is sinking ! She falls over on her side ; shrieks rend the 
 air ; the sailors from the nearest ships hasten to give their 
 aid ; the lighter boats of the party come to the rescue ; and 
 the ladies are torn out of the state cabin windows, some of 
 them half drowned.* 
 
 "Where is Laura?" screamed Mrs. Templemore. "Oh, 
 save her!" she said to a fine young fellow who had let him- 
 
 * This incident happened some years ago, exactly as it is narrated. 
 
166 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 self down from the dolphin striker of his own vessel, (which 
 they had struck against). 
 
 He jumped on board the wreck which was gradually settling 
 under water, and at the risk of his own life searched every 
 part of it ; she was not there. 
 
 It was now seen that Desmond and Daymer were also 
 missing. Some of the party pulled away with the tide in the 
 hopes of finding some traces of the lost ones. The young 
 sailor was first. What is that he sees ahead ? Yes it must 
 be ; there they are ! He shouts back, *' They are saved, they 
 are swimming close to the shore." 
 
 At the first heavy roll, after the Monarch struck, Laura 
 and the othpr young ladies had been throw^n over, but with 
 the exception of herself, they all managed to cling to the 
 rigging on the lee side. "Desmond and Conrad were both 
 rushing back from the sweeps, when they saw her fall into 
 the water. They dashed after her, and being splendid 
 swimmers, soon had her between them. Conrad felt his 
 courage rise high, as he seized Laura's silken hair, and drew 
 her head on to his shoulder with his right arm ; Desmond 
 had her round the waist with his left, and using one arm 
 each, they manfully breasted the treacherous waves of that 
 fatal river, and after a hard struggle with the eddies and 
 under current, safely reached the shore.* 
 
 * Hardly a year passes without some one of the citizens of Cal- 
 cutta being drowned. As to sailors and soldiers, they are lost by 
 the dozen. 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 167 
 
 The boats with the other members of the party quickly 
 gained the bank, and found the two young men chafing 
 Laura's hands, to recover her from the faint she was in. 
 They lifted her into Mrs. Blandon's carriage, who insisted 
 upon Conrad and Desmond driving with Laura and her aunt, 
 to her house, which was the nearest, while she made use of 
 a friend's conveyance to bring the family doctor, with the 
 least possible delay. 
 
 "You can have Blandon's things till your own arrive," she 
 said, " so hurry home as fast as the horses can gallop." 
 
 After a few hasty adieus the rest of the party scattered in 
 different directions. 
 
 Mrs. Templemore was almost beside herself, but as well as 
 she could, with tearful eyes and trembling voice, thanked her 
 companions for their gallant conduct. They begged her not 
 to agitate herself, and said they should be well rewarded if 
 Miss Templemore came to no harm. 
 
 They had only half-a-mile to drive, but the horses seemed 
 to crawl, and all thoughts about themselves were lost in their 
 anxiety to see Laura conscious once more. 
 
 Mr. Blandon, who had not been of the party, and had 
 just returned from his office, was astounded to see four 
 dripping figures come out of his carriage, one of them, as he 
 fancied, a corpse ; but he quickly comprehended the matter, 
 and every one in a few minutes was made as comfortable as 
 circumstances would admit. The young men explained the 
 misfortune which had befallen the party, and while the 
 
168 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 carriage was again hurried off for their clothes, all waited 
 anxiously for the arrival of Mrs. Blandon and the doctor. In 
 a few minutes they came in, and the latter soon brought 
 the welcome intelligence that Laura was fast recovering, 
 although not well enough to thank her deliverers in person. 
 Intelligence had also been sent to Mr. Templemore, and 
 he arrived in hot haste to find things progressing favorably. 
 
 They had but a gloomy dinner that night at Mrs. Blandon's, 
 and although she and her daughters tried their utmost to 
 make their guests forget the terrible incidents of the day, all 
 their efforts were unavailing. Every one's thoughts would 
 recur to the dangers they had passed through, and then 
 silence gradually stole over them. 
 
 Before Laura's deliverers left, Mrs. Templemore begged to 
 see them again. She intended to say something more 
 warmly expressive of her gratitude, more worthy of the 
 occasion ; but when they came up to her, looking pale and 
 worn, her eloquence left her. She burst into tears, clasped 
 their hands in hers, and feebly sobbed out, *' Thank you, a 
 thousand times, thank you." 
 
 What thought Conrad and Desmond as they lay on their 
 sleepless couches that night ? What a wide difference of 
 feeling disturbed their rest ! The first was all hope. His 
 heart bounded with dehght, as he exultingly said to himself, 
 " Now I have shown myself her own true knight, she will 
 surely believe in my deep, deep devotion." Then he pictured 
 her drowning in that horrid river, while he was bound fast by 
 
EEALITIES OF liNDIAI^ LIFE. 169 
 
 chains which he could not hreak. He tugged and strained 
 for bare hfe, to plunge in and save her, and then he woke 
 and sprang out of bed, glad to drive away the hideous night- 
 mare, by pacing up and down hour after hour. 
 
 Desmond's mind was racked by a thousand conflicting 
 emotions. "I helped to save her life," bethought, "for 
 without me they never could have struggled against those 
 fearful eddies ; but will this bring me any nearer my mark. 
 Will it make her love me ?" Then a dark shade of the past 
 would spectre-like rise before him, and the hot blood coursed 
 through his hrain, till like a raging maniac he paced wildly 
 up and down, almost unconscious of what he was doing. 
 After a while he collected his thoughts. *' That boy, my 
 rival ! I could quarrel with him easily enough ; and then if I 
 shot him or he me, it would be gain either way." And yet, 
 no ! Was woman ever thus won ? His wide experience told 
 him never. Then came black despair, and he could hardly 
 keep his hands off his pistol-case, lying so temptingly near. 
 'Tis hard, that crossing of one's only real passion : that 
 snatching away of the idol, which has been worshipped with 
 a blind uncalculating faith. What if the report he had 
 heard before leaving England were true ! What if that 
 wretched woman still lived! "No, no! she is dead!" and 
 he tried to laugh down his fears, but still the phantom would 
 rise before him. Suddenly the cool devil in his nature re- 
 turned, and he calmed down, and then a little laudanum and 
 brandy did what tired nature refused to do ; he slept. 
 
170 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 The whole of Calcutta rung with the account of the acci- 
 dent, and when it was ascertained that Laura was in no 
 danger, speculation was rife as to which of her deliverers she 
 would reward with her hand. The gossips were, however, 
 terribly disappointed when, after a few weeks of breath- 
 less expectation, our heroine's engagement was not an- 
 nounced. 
 
 In the mean time, Desmond had to join his regiment, 
 which had gone up country, and Mr. Templemore was offered 
 a judgeship some 400 miles from Calcutta, which he accepted. 
 His wife, never a strong woman, was much shaken by the 
 fright she had experienced, and as Laura also looked pale and 
 delicate, it was resolved that they should go up to the hills to 
 spend the hot weather. Mr. Templemore proposed to enter 
 on his new appointment as soon as his wife left, and would 
 be rejoined by her and Laura at the commencement of the 
 cold weather, by which time the house, &c., would all be in 
 good order. 
 
 Conrad Daymer had still some months to remain in Cal- 
 cutta, to enable him to pass through the Civil Service 
 College, which he hoped to accomplish in less than the usual 
 time, as he showed great aptitude in learning the languages 
 of Bengal. 
 
 Hampton Templemore had started from Calcutta as agreed 
 on, shortly after his return from Kishnaghur, and without 
 any incident worth recording, found himself at Allahabad, 
 after five days of railway and dawk carriage travelling. An 
 
EEALITIES OF IKDIA?? LIFE. 171 
 
 unwonted number of ensigns were doing duty with the regi- 
 ments at the above station, so having numerous companions, 
 he did not find the time hang very heavily on his hands. He 
 at once employed a moonshee, and after a good deal of rubbing 
 of the forehead and clutching at the hair, (by which great 
 mental perturbation is meant to be described) he mastered 
 the first difiiculties of Persian and Hindostanee. After this 
 he found it plain sailing, and took a great interest in his 
 work. The Colonel and officers of his regiment were very 
 kind, and ready to put him in the way of managing properly 
 on his slender pay, and in this he was more fortunate than 
 the ensigns of the Queen's regiments, for these had no one to 
 give them advice, the colonels and officers being all griff's 
 alike. 
 
 Conrad Daymer had been constant in his attentions to 
 Laura, and had spoken to Mrs. Templemore and her husband 
 of his attachment to their niece. He was looked upon by 
 them as her future husband, but had not, however, formally 
 proposed to Laura herself, her reciprocation of his aff'ection 
 being so apparent that he had almost forgotten the bounden 
 duty of every bachelor in this respect. He, however, made 
 amends for his remissness in the following manner. Before 
 she was thoroughly recovered from the effects of the shock 
 she had received, he used to spend his leisure hours in reading 
 to her, or sit talking of olden times on the terrace overlooking 
 the river. On one of these occasions, their conversation 
 strayed from one subject to another, till they began discussing 
 
172 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 the marriage and domestic economy of a young couple whom 
 they knew — the Bartletts. 
 
 *'Well," said Laura, '* I cannot agree with you in thinking 
 she has shown great taste in furnishing her house ; you don't 
 mean to say that red and yellow form a nice contrast ?" 
 
 " No, I don't exactly mean to say that, but then I firmly 
 believe the unfortunate mixture of colours you talk of, is the 
 work of that vulgar fellow Bartlett ; you can always tell him 
 a mile off by his waistcoat and necktie ; and it is about the 
 only mistake in the house. I am sure you will never allow 
 me to interfere in that way," said Conrad, warming with the 
 subject, but totally forgetting that he had not yet received 
 permission to use the word " we." 
 
 "Oh, indeed, Mr. Conrad, what do you mean," said Laura, 
 her eyes dancing with mischief, " you have not yet informed 
 me by what right I should exercise any control whatever in 
 your domestic arrangements. I am reall}'- quite surprised at 
 your language." 
 
 " Then you are a sweet little humbug, that's what you 
 are," and [here turn away your heads, young ladies] he gave 
 her a kiss, then laughingly dropping on one knee, said, 
 ''Angelic Miss Templemore, will you deign to accept the 
 homage of your devoted slave, and some day condescend to 
 arrange his drawing-room furniture ?" after which [we are 
 only recording the truth] he kissed her again a dozen 
 times. 
 
 In a few days more Mrs. Templemore broke up her es- 
 
REALITIES or ITfDIAN LIEE. 173 
 
 tablisliment, for the hot weather was creeping on, and the 
 journey to Mussooree would take at least fifteen days, so 
 sending their heavy luggage on first by steamer, our friends 
 made ready for that not over pleasant trip for ladies, a jour- 
 ney by dawk. 
 
 The worst part of the undertaking, as far as roads were 
 concerned, was accomplished by railway, which extended at 
 this time to a place in the coal districts, some hundred and 
 twenty miles north of Calcutta, called Eaneegauge. 
 
 Mrs. Templemore had friends or acquaintances at many of 
 the stations on their route, so was enabled to travel much 
 more comfortably than those who were not so fortunate. 
 They rested at Burdwan, Shergotty, Benares, and Allahabad. 
 
 Here of course they were met by Hampton. He was look- 
 ing well, and talked of "my regiment," and was great about 
 parades, drilling, &c. He "chummed" with another ensign, 
 and was very proud and delighted to show Laura over their 
 little dwelling. When Mrs. Templemore said that she would 
 come and breakfast with him next morning, he and his friend 
 nearly lost their heads altogether. Their two khidmutgars, 
 who had only lately been, promoted from mussalchees (plate 
 washers), became so excited that they smashed half the 
 crockery which Hampton had borrowed from the Colonel to 
 do honour to his guests, and for fear of the consequences, 
 bolted next morning across country, and were never seen 
 again. 
 
 After a few days spent together, brother and sister had 
 
174 EASTWABDS, OE 
 
 again to part, with the hope, however, of meeting after the 
 hot season, when Mrs. Templemore would return through 
 the station, en route to their new home at Neelapore. 
 
 To those of our readers who have never been in India, it 
 may not be uninteresting to know that there was only one 
 land and one water route from Calcutta to Allahabad. The 
 former was called the Grand Trunk Eoad, and was traversed 
 in primeval days by the heart-sick traveller in a palanquin. 
 As far as it went it was a blessing (the road we mean), but 
 when you consider that most of the rivers were unbridged, 
 the jungles teemed in places with tigers, the dawk bungalows, 
 or resting places, were comfortless little thatched cottages, no 
 aid obtainable from any European for sometimes a hundred 
 miles, and in the hot weather great danger from fever, dysen- 
 tery, or cholera, it was enough to make one shudder to think 
 of unprotected women being sent such a journey, and yet it 
 was done every day. 
 
 After many years, the ordeal by palanquin gave place to 
 the lesser one by dawk carriage. This conveyance was not 
 at all unlike one of the former abominations enlarged, and 
 placed on four wheels. They were very strong, their roofs 
 and walls being adapted to carry luggage and nick-nacks of 
 all kinds. 
 
 To the humorous mind there was a fund of amusement in 
 this mode of transit, and as in the course of ten years we only 
 heard of one coachman being killed, a syce, or groom, having 
 both legs broken, one gentleman an arm ditto, and of another 
 
EEALITIES OF IlfDIA?^ LIFE. 175 
 
 losing one of his ears (an extraordinary case to be sure), it 
 may be considered that a special providence protected the tra- 
 veller through the perils of this method of locomotion. The 
 fun we have alluded to was to be found chiefly in the horses — 
 save the mark ! Three to five pounds was the price paid for 
 the best of them — need we say any more ? They were 
 generally ponies or galloways, vicious to such an extent that 
 when in process of being conquered by the superior malignity 
 of the demons who drove them, their performances became 
 laughable. 
 
 The whole affair of harnessing and starting was a stand up 
 fight, ending usually in the equine side being hit in a very 
 soft place by some stupendously knowing dodge, when he gave 
 in, and then he galloped like, well ! I have no comparison 
 except Mazeppa's horse, or one driven by a drunken Irish- 
 man after a fair. Fortunately the road was pretty straight, 
 and though above the level of the surrounding country, the 
 chances were so far diminished of being carried right off it. 
 But in the hills the risks run were really appalling. It was 
 the common practice to dash down a mile of steep declivity, 
 sometimes with a sharp turn, ending in a bridge over a 
 ravine fifty feet deep. Horses have been found in such 
 places hanged in their own collars, from having jumped over 
 the parapet, and an instance of this happened to a friend of 
 the writer a few years ago. Sometimes when the horse was 
 tired of galloping he used to shy off the road, and then there 
 was an upset or a concussion against the first tree in the 
 
176 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 track. In either case, but especially in the forrner, the tra- 
 veller found himself in the midst of the mere wreck of his 
 former grandeur. He was generally bathed in a mixture of 
 A.llsopp's beer, soda water, Eau de Cologne, and hair oil, and 
 was lucky if the guava jelly had not been upset into his best 
 hat or box of five hundred cigars. 
 
 As a case in point, we will narrate what happened to young 
 John Brown, of the uncovenanted service. He had persuaded, 
 not to say entrapped, his revered maternal parent into 
 going to Mussooree. This lady had a perfect horror of 
 horses. With her they were a species of supremely vicious 
 tigers, who had drunk of the concentrated essence of hatred 
 to the human race. She would only consent to travel by day 
 — slowly ! Well ! as slowly as bribes and entreaties could 
 accomplish, for remember, kind reader, that the horses had 
 only one pace and that was a gallop. She travelled in one 
 carriage with a daughter, her son following in another to 
 watch over their safety, and literally to pick up the pieces if 
 necessary. Judge what must have been his feelings, when he 
 saw that vehicle, containing all he loved and all the provisions 
 and crockery, with a black ayah and six tin boxes on the roof, 
 rush off the road, reel, go on two wheels, and disappear down 
 a slope into a grove of mango trees. We will draw a veil 
 over the sequel, as novelists say. 
 
 The above is one view of Dawk travelling. 
 
 Take another. At one of the halts you may^ be drinking a 
 glass of ale or lighting a cigar, or stooping forward to get 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 177 
 
 something out of the well, or feeding the baby from a bottle, 
 or a hundred similar things, when that Roman-nosed pony 
 which has been torn by main force from its stable, rears as it 
 is harnessed ; bounds forward just one yard and then stands 
 stock still. Think what becomes of that foaming beverage, 
 or how nearly your eye is put out by that lighted stick, or 
 what a blow your nose may get, or how far down that devoted 
 infant's throat that bottle may go, and agree with us in 
 thinking that they were fools who had such an experience 
 twice — 07ice was the common lot. 
 
 12 
 
178 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 MUSSOOEEE ; THE CAPTAIN' S WALL ; EOSA MAETIN'E. 
 
 Latjea and her aunt experienced some of the inconveniences 
 of dawk travelling mentioned in our last chapters, but they 
 were greatly modified by judicious halts, and very often by 
 the assistance of the police who had orders from the different 
 magistrates, in whose jurisdiction they might happen to be, 
 especially to protect their friends. They rested at the great 
 military station of Meerut for two or three days, and were 
 then about a thousand miles from Calcutta — ninety more and, 
 hey presto ! the hot, dusty plains of the Gangetic valley 
 change into the smiling Eden of Dehra Doon, (which lies at 
 the foot of the hills), and a little further on into the cool, 
 cottage-dotted, snowy-mountained, gay, delicious, Mussooree. 
 
 At Dehra, Laura, for the first time since leaving England, 
 saw the roses clustering over the roadside garden gate, and 
 heard the ripple of the clear mountain stream which supplies 
 the town with water. This is led on to a turreted reservoir, 
 from which it falls in tiny cascades, and is surrounded by an 
 ever changing group of picturesquely-clad natives who come 
 here daily to bathe. 
 
 Mussooree itself rises abruptly from the valley, having some 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAIS" LIFE. 179 
 
 seven thousand feet of elevation in a distance of only six miles. 
 The ascent, therefore, in some places is very precipitous. One 
 of the peculiar features of this sanatarium consists in there 
 being no intervening range of hills to destroy the view of the 
 plains, which, on a clear day, appear spread out as on a map 
 for hundreds of miles, south, east, and west. The white- 
 washed houses of Eoorkee, the great engineering depot, and 
 even those of Meerut, ninety miles off, being sometimes visible 
 to the naked eye. Large rivers, reduced to the semblance of 
 ribbons of a pale straw colour, can be traced in all their wind- 
 ings till lost in the extreme distance, being marked distinctly 
 against the light green shade of the cultivated land, or the 
 darker hues of the forest. In the hot weather it is a wonderful 
 contrast to turn from this scene, quivering in the mirage 
 caused by the fierce sun and burning hot winds, to the cool 
 north, where ranges upon ranges of mountains are bounded by 
 the awe-inspiring regions of eternal snow, from which the 
 cool breeze blows so refreshingly, bringing down the ther- 
 mometer, even in May, to 60°. Nor do comparisons cease 
 here, they are offered in almost everything animate or inani- 
 mate. On our right hand will be a fair hillman clothed in 
 blanketing, with a creel full of wild apricots, or, perhaps, a 
 pottle of blackberries (real English-looking blackberries) for 
 sale, while on our left stands, patiently, a dark Hindustanee 
 of the plains, lightly clad in muslin, who insinuatingly 
 offers his luscious mangoes or rich ripe plantains. On the 
 road before us two little gynee bullocks (about three feet 
 
180 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 high) are creepmg along with their tiny load of lime, which 
 they have doubtless brought up some break-neck path ; while 
 stalking majestically past them, is that long-legged, high- 
 humped braminee ox of the plains, laden with two large skins 
 of water from the nearest spring. The native market is sup- 
 plied with all the usual Indian vegetables mingled with the 
 products of Europe. The most delicious peaches are grown 
 in the the Dehra valley, and Orleans plums of a coarse 
 description can be bought for a shilling a hundred-weight ; 
 strawberries too at six anas a seer, or fivepence a pound. 
 These may seem uninteresting details, but who that has lived 
 for years in the tropics will not understand the delight of 
 even loohing at English fruit or flowers ? Among these last 
 the dahha blooms conspicuously in the gardens of the residents, 
 and the surplus roots having from time to time been thrown 
 out here and there over the hillside, they now grow in sheets 
 of glowing colours. 
 
 It is a strange feature of the Himalayahs at Mussooree, 
 that properly speaking there are no valleys, by which we 
 understand a plain between two hills. One range rises 
 after another in a never varying series of steep ascents 
 or tremendous precipices, beginning in a narrow ravine 
 and ending in a sharp ridge, which generally runs east and 
 west, the prevailing direction of these mountains for two 
 thousand miles. On one of these ridges are scattered the 
 villas and cottages of Mussooree, while towering seven hun- 
 dred feet above is Landour, the military sanatarium. At the 
 
EEALITIES OP INDIATf LIPE. 181 
 
 junction of the two stations stands the native bazaar. The 
 crest of the ridge is here not more than thirty yards across, 
 having on each side a precipice a thousand feet deep. The 
 shops on both sides of the street actually hang over the"abyss 
 (being here and there propped up on poles) and appear in an 
 awfully precarious position. As we leave the bazaar behind 
 and proceed westwards the ground available for building be- 
 comes more extensive, the southern face of the mountain is 
 less steep and every little shelf is appropriated for houses. 
 Now and then a spur runs out, and these are all dotted with 
 picturesque dwellings. 
 
 The whole had originally been thickly wooded with the 
 oak and rhododendron, but with the most culpable want of 
 foresight, these were nearly all cut dow^i for firewood, the 
 result being that the gravelly soil was left unprotected from 
 the action of the rain, often causing landslips and consequent 
 loss to the householders. An instance of this once came 
 under the writer's observation, 
 
 A family, consisting of a very timid lady and her daughter, 
 rented a pretty cottage, the proprietor of which had scooped 
 and blasted the hill side till he had obtained sufficient room to 
 build it. In doing this he had created quite a precipice below 
 the next property, which belonged to an invalid and irascible 
 officer, who had planned and erected for himself, as he thought, 
 the perfection of a residence. A rainy season passed, and the 
 gallant captain found that the earth of his little garden was 
 being gradually washed down on to the roof of his neighbour's 
 
182 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 titchen, which, Indian fashion, was detached from the house. 
 He would often stand on the edge of the gulf, some fifty feet 
 deep, and as he mournfully looked down the kitchen chimney, 
 meditate on what he should do. One day a bright idea, 
 clouded however by visions of the cost, crossed his mind. He 
 must spend another five hundred rupees, and build a stone 
 wall right up the face of the scarp. His neighbour who had 
 caused the dilemma, made him a present of the materials, of 
 which he happened to possess a store. The wall rose rapidly. 
 It looked stupendously imposing. It was a labour of love for 
 the captain to superintend it. 
 
 " You shan't have any more of my garden soil down into 
 your place," he used triumphantly to say to the landlord of 
 the ^'Acorns," as the cottage below him was called, "I think 
 I have put a stop to tliatP 
 
 When it was finished, all his visitors were taken to admire 
 his chef d'^oeuvre. 
 
 " There !" he exclaimed, '' That's the style of wall you ought 
 to build up here. None of your rubbishing afi"airs, but a 
 regular business-like bit of masonry. Cost me five hundred 
 rupees !" 
 
 Alas for all human projects ; how often do they not fail ! 
 The rains commenced ; the captain had neglected to carry 
 the roof drippings of his house clear of the new wall. It 
 stood out, however, bravely for a while. One day the timid 
 lady was writing a letter ; her daughter sat by her side 
 plying the swift crochet needle. Their thoughts were calm ; 
 
REALITIES OE INDIAN LIFE. 183 
 
 the day was rainy but serene. Nothing had lately happened 
 to frighten them- — no storms, no lightning, no desperate 
 young ladies scrambling their ponies over breakneck places, 
 no nerve-shaking hillmen balancing themselves across danger- 
 ous ledges. 
 
 " Thank goodness, Emma," said the lady to her daughter, 
 " I am becoming more accustomed to the dreadful precipices 
 and other horrors up in these wild mountains, and I hope 
 there will be nothing to make me nervous again for a long 
 time," when crash ! — rumble ! — thud ! — bang ! — down came 
 the whole of the famous wall ! 
 
 It was at the back of the house. The cause of the commo- 
 tion could not be seen from where the ladies were seated. 
 The mother thought the world had come to an end, and 
 fainted off dead in her arm chair, while the daughter rushed 
 to the verandah in time to see the servants creeping out of a 
 small side window of the kitchen, on which the avalanche had 
 fallen, covering it over, and hermetically sealing its doors and 
 windows, while the captain stood on the edge of the ruins, 
 surrounded by his wife and family, and waved his arms wildly 
 in the air. 
 
 The cottage taken for Mrs. Templemore was called "The 
 Oaks." It was embosomed in a grove of the trees after which 
 it was named, and perched on such a small spot, scooped out of 
 the mountain side, that you could have jumped from Laura's 
 accustomed seat down hundreds of feet without a break, while 
 at the back of the house, their next neighbour, being nearly 
 
184 EASTWAEDS, OB 
 
 straight over head, could have annihilated them by dropping 
 a rock or two on their thatched roof. It was in a bay 
 between two little spurs of the hill, and thus shaded and 
 slightly darkened except at mid-day, you could look down on 
 the plains sweltering in the rays of the fierce Indian sun, while 
 (strange contrast) everything around was cool and calm and 
 beautiful. 
 
 Laura never tired of looking at that wondrous scene, it 
 seemed so much more like some artificially produced ejBfect of 
 the cunning scene-painter, than anything in nature. Then 
 the cuckoo would come and sit quite close, and make the 
 echoes answer to its clear, time-marked notes. To Laura 
 they sounded mournfully ; they drew her thoughts to child- 
 hood, to Conrad and Hampton, to her father's and mother's 
 graves (now only a comparatively short distance away), to 
 her .deliverance from the dread waters, and then she would 
 weep, and pray to God to preserve those whom she loved so 
 well. 
 
 The cottage had only four rooms and two dressing rooms, 
 was thatched and had green windows and Venetian doors, 
 with a verandah on three sides. This was made into quite a 
 bower by the roses and honeysuckles, which were twined all 
 over it, there being no danger in the hills from snakes or 
 other creeping things. 
 
 The hill which bounded the view on the left was the 
 famous Purree Puhar, or Fairy's Mountain. It was wooded 
 up to the summit, in the centre of which might be seen the 
 
EEALITIES OF I:N'DIAX LIFE. 185 
 
 remains of what had been a large house. To the mountaineer 
 the hill was haunted, and rash was he considered who ven- 
 tured within its spirit-peopled boundaries after nightfall. A 
 wild romantic tale was connected with the blackened walls, 
 which stood out clearly in the bright sunlit atmosphere, 
 and the natives, as they passed within sight of them, would 
 shake their heads and whisper to each other " The fairies are 
 generally powerless against the white man, but this time they 
 have shown their might indeed." 
 
 The story ran thus — Rosa Martine was the eldest daughter 
 of an officer, to whom promotion had crept with even more 
 laggard steps than it generally does to the moneyless soldier. 
 A large family had kept him poor, and it was only by ex- 
 changing into regiments serving in India, that he managed 
 to struggle on with his captain's pay. Rosa, his pet, had 
 been sent to England, where some kind relations had educated 
 her for a merely nominal sum. At seventeen she returned to 
 her parents and to her shabby home. After dreaming, as 
 children viH dream, of all kinds of luxury and pleasure which 
 she was to enjoy in India, the reality of course proved doubly 
 vexatious to her, and being a fine-looking girl, she experienced 
 great mortification in not being to make as good an appearance 
 as her young companions at the station. Among the officers 
 of her father's regiment was a lieutenant of the name of 
 Annerly, who interested Rosa more than any of the other 
 young men who danced or flirted with her, and who, in his 
 quiet modest way, showed that he had the deepest regard for 
 
186 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 her. Ud fortunately, although a man of good family he was 
 very poor. When, therefore, he proposed for Eosa's hand, 
 his suit was rejected by her father, who would not entertain 
 the idea for a moment. 
 
 "You see," he said to his daughter, "what poverty has' 
 brought my home to, take warning by my fate, and let not its 
 curse follow you." 
 
 Young Annerly felt the disappointment bitterly, and ob- 
 taining leave of absence, started for England. 
 
 Eosa, as is usual with pretty girls in India, had several 
 offers from men much her senior, and, persuaded by her mother 
 and father, she accepted one of them Major Gorton, by marry- 
 ing whom she gained wealth and luxury, but with them 
 misery. Her husband, as many men had done before, thought 
 he would have a pretty, easy-tempered plaything, when in 
 fact he had secured a sneering, fretful, discontented wife, who 
 seemed to think that title gave her a right to render his home 
 miserable. 
 
 Some years passed away, and she became the mother of two 
 children, as pretty as herself. 
 
 Her father's regiment had for some time been removed to 
 a distance, and she had heard little of the movements of its 
 different members, Annerly' s name being purposelj' omitted 
 in the letters received from her family. On an evil day she 
 determined to spend the hot season at Mussooree. It would 
 do her children good, and she would escape the daily quarrels 
 with her husband. A pretty cottage was taken for her, and 
 
EEALITIES OF I?s^DIAN LIFE. 187 
 
 charmed with the climate and novelty of everything around 
 her, she watched with delight the bright hue of health rise in 
 her children's faces. 
 
 Separation and reflection on the folly of the life they had 
 been leading, led both husband and wife to inwardly vow 
 amendment for the future, and their letters grew kinder and 
 more confidential than their personal intercourse had ever 
 been. All promised w^ell for a reconciliation, and Grorton 
 looked upon that trip to the hills as a most fortunate occur- 
 rence. 
 
 It was willed to be otherwise. By some fatality, Annerly, 
 who had long ago returned from England, had taken six 
 months' leave, and gone up to Mussooree. Too late for his 
 happiness, he had unexpectedly inherited a large fortune from 
 a distant relative, and the once poor lieutenant was now rich. 
 In the comparatively limited circle of a hill station, Eosa 
 Gorton and her former lover were frequently thrown into each 
 other's society. But what necessity is there to detail the 
 usual incidents of such a story ? Human passion, want of 
 principle, and unhmited opportunity did their usual work of 
 ruin. Her letters to her husband became less frequent. He 
 grew suspicious, or perhaps some one gave him a hint or two, 
 and suddenly he intimated his intention of visiting the hills. 
 This severed the last link. Sending her children to a friend, 
 she eloped. Major Gorton arrived almost immediately after 
 her flight, called out his enemy, and was severely wounded 
 in the encounter. A broken-hearted man, he returned to the 
 
188 EASTWAKDS, OR 
 
 plains with his little ones, intending to start for England, 
 where he purposed to sue for a divorce as soon as possible. 
 
 Annerly and the wretched woman he had seduced were so 
 shunned by every one, that he withdrew from the station, and 
 rented the solitary house on the Purree Puhar. It was 
 known to the hillmen that this and one or two of the neigh- 
 bouring peaks were subject to be struck by hghtning, 
 (probably from the large quantity of iron ore contained in the 
 rocks). The landlord had been dissuaded from building on 
 such an exposed site, but he would listen to no one, and 
 carried out his whim. The stormy season came on, and our 
 two fugitives were installed in their new^ home. 
 
 " Their sneers cannot reach us here," Annerly would say to 
 poor Rosa, and then he would swear to be true to her, and 
 to marry her the moment he could legally do so. 
 
 One night the inhabitants of Mussooree were startled by a 
 sudden blaze on the fairy's hill. They looked and wondered. 
 In an hour or so a band of horror-stricken servants rushed 
 into the station magistrate's compound, and breathlessly de- 
 scribed what had happened. 
 
 The sahib and mem (lady and gentleman) had just retired 
 to rest when a storm broke over the hill. One fearful flash of 
 lightning was followed by a peal of thunder, which shook the 
 walls of the house. In a few minutes the thatched roof burst 
 into flames, and, by their account, their eff"orts to penetrate to 
 their master's room had been unavailing, the fire aAd smoke 
 driving them back at each attempt. Assistance was immedi- 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 189 
 
 ately sent from the station, but it was of no avail. It appears 
 that the inmates had been struck by the lightning as they 
 slept, and the house being burnt over them mattered little to 
 the dead. 
 
 It has never been rebuilt, and its mouldering ruins are the 
 onl}^ memorial of the unhappy pair, who were buried in a 
 little garden adjoining. 
 
 A month or two of the invigorating climate soon restored 
 Mrs. Templemore and Laura to health, and they were able to 
 discard their jumpans (or Sedan chairs), and take long walks, 
 or canter about on two little hairy ghoouts (hill ponies), 
 which a friend had sent them from Almorah, another of the 
 stations in the Himalayahs. They received letters daily from 
 one or other of those they had left behind them, and as every- 
 thing progressed well with their loved ones, their spirits rose, 
 they forgot the trials they had gone through, and looked for- 
 ward with happy longing to their meeting in the cold 
 weather. 
 
 Mr. Templemore wrote in high spirits about his judgeship, 
 and the district he was appointed to. He had secured a 
 beautiful house, and hoped to have everything in order by 
 October. 
 
 The last news from Conrad Daymer was most cheering. 
 He expected to pass through the College in six months, and 
 intended to apply for an assistant-magistrateship at (only 
 fancy) Neelapore. This Mr. Templemore could easily manage 
 for him, so he looked upon it as a certainty. His letters 
 
190 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 used to make Laura's thoughts wander to the future, and 
 with one of them in her hand, she would lean back in her old 
 seat in the verandah, and dream for an hour or two at a 
 time. 
 
 There was no lack of gaiety at Mussooree. The fact of all 
 being in one service prevented any difference of caste in the 
 residents, and individual likes and dislikes, with disparities 
 of age or fortune were the only governing elements of 
 society. 
 
 The beauty of our heroine very soon attracted a host of 
 butterfly admirers, who lounged by the side of her chair on 
 the Mall, or rode with her round the " Camel's back," but 
 she flirted with none of them, and was voted decidedly slow 
 by all the lady-killers of the station. 
 
 *'That girl Templemore is sweetly pretty," said young 
 Wheedler to his friend Lispey as they sat in his room one 
 day at the Himalayah Club, " Sweetly pretty !" 
 
 "Ah!" replied Lispey,"! should think so; but she has 
 no heart, not a bit. She asked me— Why ? I wished a rose 
 from her bouquet the other night, — and did it so naturally 
 that hang me if I could tell her why, by Jove, I couldn't ; 
 and I'll tell you what, old boy, she's either a fool or en- 
 gaged." 
 
 "Shouldn't wonder, now I think of it," said the other. 
 " That's the reason she seemed so deaf one evening, when I 
 asked her to walk in the moonlight after dancing with her. 
 You know a fellow can ask a girl tenderly in a whisper, to 
 
EEALITIES or IlffDIAN LIFE. 101 
 
 walk in the moonlight, but when you have to repeat it out 
 loud for the benefit of the bystanders, it is more than any 
 fellow can stand." 
 
 After May the rains set in on the hills, and then the 
 bright panorama which Laura had always spread out before 
 her was hidden altogether by the heavy clouds. Not the 
 least novel and beautiful of the sights at this season in the 
 Himalayahs, are these wonderful evidences of an Almighty 
 power which bring from the far off ocean their burden of 
 moisture, and pour it out on those old giants, the high 
 mountains, who catching the precious treasure in their out- 
 stretched arms, pour it down again to mother earth, making 
 her smile with cities and green fields. As each relay of 
 clouds creeps slowly up from the plains, you mark their 
 fleecy masses at first no bigger than your hand, plainly shewn 
 against the wooded mountain side, thousands of feet below ; 
 gradually they cover distant objects from the sight; now 
 that rock, now yon trees, then the cottage which lies a few 
 hundred feet beneath you. After a short interval the ob- 
 server feels himself enveloped and the drops begin to trickle 
 down the leaves and off the thatch of the verandah under 
 which he is standing, while the cloud gently melts away in a 
 soft shower. 
 
 No one cares much for the rain in the hills, a wetting not 
 necessarily bringing on fever, or some other ailment, as it 
 generally does in the plains. The ladies' chairs, too, are made 
 with waterproof covers, and it is only in the event of being 
 
192 EA.STWAEDS, OB 
 
 taken unawares while out riding, that they are Hkely to be 
 inconvenienced. 
 
 The appearance of some of the gentlemen while paying a 
 morning visit during this season, is decidedly ridiculous, 
 elegance being completely sacrificed to comfort, and it is odd 
 when you go out to welcome Colonel and Mrs. Wellington 
 Buckram to find that proud warrior in a blanket round his 
 waist, complete oilskin suit and dustman's sou-wester hat. 
 The blanket, we must explain, being to keep the saddle dry. 
 
 Hampton's letters to Laura after the warm weather com- 
 menced were not so cheerful as they used to be. 
 
 "You see," he said in one of them, " it is not very pleasant 
 just as you are really getting a little sleep to hear that con- 
 founded bugle and be half pulled out of bed by your bearer at 
 four o'clock for morning parade. Then when the sun rises it 
 gives us a tremendous headache, whenever we have to wear 
 the wretched infantry shacko. Parade over, we lounge about 
 the messroom verandah, where we have tea, coffee, &c., and 
 where brandy and water pegs are drunk by some of the 
 youngsters. Then there is a late breakfast, a morning call 
 or two and billiards. After that comes tiffin, with billiards. 
 Dinner closes the amusements of the day with again billiards, 
 till perhaps midnight. I eschew all the dissipated part of 
 the above amusements and try to keep my head cool for 
 study, which I am prosecuting as hard as one can with the 
 thermometer at 90°. We have had some pretty good amateur 
 theatricals, which were exciting as long as they lasted, but 
 
EEALITIES or INDIAN LIPE. 193 
 
 life in the plains in the hot weather is very trying unless you 
 have some staff or other appointment in which the work is 
 congenial to your temperament. After passing as inter- 
 preter I shall try for an appointment on the Punjaub frontier 
 in one of the irregular corps, and then I shall probably see 
 some service." 
 
 Hampton Templemore might well complain of the heat of 
 Bengal, and to those who have not been in India a sketch of 
 a day in the hot weather may not be uninteresting. Please 
 then, kind reader, to fancy that you are our guest at our 
 home in the district of Tirhoot, some 400 miles to the north 
 west of Calcutta, and that you are waking out of an apology 
 for sleep, the last scene of some troubled dream having just 
 faded away. You find on collecting your thoughts that the 
 punkah has stopped and that you are as wet as if you had 
 been in a vapour bath. As a last resource, you languidly 
 leave your couch, and try if the air in the open verandah will 
 revive your fevered body. Alas, vain hope ! 
 
 This is to be one of those days which remind the exiled 
 European of the heavy price he is paying for the now very 
 questionable pleasure of having a shake at the Pagoda tree, 
 and it is one of those which draws on his precious stock of 
 vitality, the exhaustion of which leaves him an easy prey to 
 the numerous tropical diseases which so insiduously creep on 
 their victims. 
 
 Whew, it is liot ! There is a portentous stillness in the 
 air. Now a bright scorching arrow of light is thrown on 
 
 13 
 
194 EASTWARDS, Oil 
 
 those light fleecy morning clouds which hover over the hori- 
 zon, and presto ! they are gone. A few seconds more and 
 old Sol surges into sight, a huge, quivering, red-hot ball. 
 
 A long succession of rainless months has parched up the soil, 
 and in the low-lands left it gaping in large ragged cracks, 
 while on the higher sandy plains the stunted grass is yellow 
 and to all appearance dead. All agriculture is put a stop to, 
 for the plough, where it can be urged through the soil, 
 brings up only brick-like clods. The rivers trickle gently 
 over the frequent shoals, stagnate in slimy pools, or disappear 
 altogether. The cattle wander about dejectedly, and in des- 
 peration browse on the sapless foliage of the jungle plum, or 
 rearing on end, pluck the leaves off the trees in the different 
 groves. Nor, where they slyly can, do they despise a pull at 
 the old straw thatch of their master's dwelling. 
 
 All nature pants for water ! ! 
 
 The hardy native, who generally seems to get cooler as the 
 white man gets hotter, has now to give in, and fans himself 
 as he walks along, or keeps his bathing cloth wetted so that 
 he may swab himself at intervals. 
 
 If you attempt to take a ride, your horse is bathed in 
 sweat, although only moving at a walk, while he is 
 nearly maddened by the attacks of the large gad-fly, which 
 brings blood each time it rests on its victim, and whose 
 high carnival is at this season. If you w^ish a sensation 
 gallop, turn your steed towards his stable, and tell him to 
 go. A bound, a kick, and he rushes like a mad thing to the 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 195 
 
 welcome shelter. As the sun rises higher, a lurid haze ob- 
 scures the horizon, which on the flat plains of Bengal is often 
 visible, without a break, from two or three points of the com- 
 pass. Stand out now, and if you have good strong eyes look 
 at the W' onderful mirage. The trees seem to dance high in the 
 air, and j^onder herd of diminutive Bengalee oxen are magni- 
 fied into elephantine proportions. Patiently these stand with 
 lowered heads till it pleases the little naked urchin in charge, 
 who is burnt to the blackness of a cinder, to take them to 
 the nearest water, or to the welcome shelter of some neigh- 
 bouring grove, the charms of whose shade can now be 
 thoroughly appreciated. 
 
 No wonder it is a religious duty in such a land as this to 
 plant the leafj?-, evergreen mangoe and majestic banian, for 
 without them the country would almost be untenable and 
 impassable to the weary traveller, to whom they are parlour 
 and bedroom and kitchen and all. 
 
 Would you wish to examine more closely a Hindoo grove ? 
 Come then, notwithstanding the unpropitious day, don your 
 pith helmet, call the Bearer to unfold the great gaudily painted 
 wax cloth umbrella, while we step across our garden, which, 
 as you see, nearly joins that forest of leafy patriarchs. Ten acres 
 at the least have been planted in lines at distances of about 
 twenty feet between each tree. This would appear to be too 
 close were we not to consider that shade is the great object 
 sought after, and not the fruit, which, however, is borne in 
 great quantities every second year by the mangoe tree. 
 
196 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 Not a blade of grass grows under the thick mass of fohage 
 overhead, and we can pace up and down without in the least 
 soiling our thin Indian shoes. 
 
 Look at these trunks ! Most of them from twelve to fifteen 
 feet in circumference, spreading at ten or twelve feet from 
 the ground into a hundred branches, and bushing out 
 into a magnificent screen of evergreen leaves, the topmost of 
 which is fifty feet from the ground. Try his best, the sun 
 can only here and there dart down an arrow of light, piercing 
 on its way some monster cobweb which shines and quivers 
 in the bright red ray. 
 
 No fear of sunstroke here, but it is stiflingly hot. A few 
 minutes more is all we ask you to remain in the oven-like 
 spot, while we watch quietly the little grey squirrel peer- 
 ing slyly down at us, and the green-scaled tree-lizard, who, 
 tongue protruding, pantingly watches for that unwary fly. 
 
 Move not ! but listen to the rustling midst yon clump of 
 bamboos which fringes the grove. It is the dhamin snake* 
 gliding through the dried up leaves. How listless he seems. 
 He is perfectly harmless, except to birds, rats, and other ver- 
 min, so there is no danger in throwing this clod at him, 
 though he looks so formidable and is some nine feet long. 
 Now, see how he can travel; head thrown proudly up, 
 and keen black eye glistening in anger at his haunts being in- 
 vaded ! A few leaps and twistings and he is gone, scattering 
 
 * One of the Boa Constrictor species. The natives fancy that it 
 sucks their milch kine. 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 197 
 
 in dismay that family of mina birds, who were not at all 
 aware of the proximity of their ancient enemy. 
 
 If we were to dig up this hole we should probably find that 
 it contained a jackal, or a pair of them, and with a good ter- 
 rier or two there would be fine sport for those who like such 
 amusements. 
 
 And now back w^ith hast}^ steps to the house, and call with 
 parched mouth for a glass of sherbet and the punkah. The 
 water for your bath is actually tepid, but bathe you must, 
 and then to dress, an operation of no small trouble and vexa- 
 tion, for no sooner are you out of your bath than the perspiration 
 pours in streams over you, and although the punkah is taking 
 the most vigorous bounds through the air, you cannot keep 
 cool. If you are of Falstaffian proportions, you will spoil at 
 least one clean shirt before you can make your entree into the 
 breakfast room. Our poor wife comes in dressed in the thin- 
 nest of muslins, and imploringly asks us to speak to that 
 punkah cooly. He, poor wretch, is pulling manfully, but even 
 lie is hot, and the perspiration trickles down his face and set- 
 tles in a drop at the point of his nose. The poor lady's hair is 
 actually sticking to her forehead, and as to the children, one of 
 them, who has just come into the room with only one cotton 
 garment on, has incrustations of salt on its little neck and 
 shoulders, which sparkle like tiny brilliants when she crosses 
 any bright ray of light, while the baby, poor thing, is as red 
 as a lobster from that eruption called in India prickly heat. 
 Nobody can eat anything, and it is unanimously agreed that 
 
198 EASTWAEDS, OB 
 
 if this lasts we shall all melt away. We, who are weather- 
 wise, predict a storm very shortly, and if it does come it will 
 be a severe one. It is now two p.m. The thermometer marks 
 95 degrees, but this does not really show how hot it is, for the 
 effect on the human body depends greatly on the presence or 
 absence of wind. 
 
 It is no use to try and remain dressed all day, so ladies and 
 gentlemen retire to their different rooms, and divesting them- 
 selves of boots and dresses, throw themselves under the pun- 
 kah. We have looked out once or twice on the road which 
 runs past the house, but no one is mad enough to travel at this 
 hour. The birds are silent, our favorite dog has laid himself 
 in a wet dark corner of our bath room, and we almost feel in- 
 clined to follow his example. Were this state of things to con- 
 tinue, Europeans could not live beyond a few days, but 
 luckily it is not so. In the North West provinces of Bengal 
 there is generally a strong west wind blowing, which, acting 
 on wetted tatties (or screens), renders life bearable, and in 
 lower Bengal, such a day as we attempt to describe generally 
 ushers in a tremendous storm of wind and rain, which cools 
 the air for a week. 
 
 It is strange that the several earthquakes which we have ex- 
 perienced in our twenty years' sojourn in India, all hap- 
 pened on awfully hot, still days, and in the deep silence it 
 is singularly mournful to hear the peculiar wail which the 
 village women make, when the first shock warns them of the 
 advent of their mysterious visitor. 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 199 
 
 On looking out at about 4 p.m. we make sure that, from 
 the appearance of the sky, we are to have one of those 
 terrific orales called in Beng^al " Nor- westers." A Ions' 
 succession of rice land lies to the north of the house, then 
 a river, and again on the other side of that, to the horizon, 
 comes a treeless plain. We can therefore plainly see the very 
 first brewing of the storm. There is at thecommencement only 
 a thin smoky-looking Hne of vapour, which, however, gradually 
 becomes denser and denser, till its outlines become black and 
 defined against the sky. Gradually it creeps upwards and 
 hides the sun, and soon it is time to bolt and bar doors and 
 windows, and to see that all fires near thatched house are put 
 out, for it will blow in a way that will astonish any one but 
 an " old hand." The cattle herds know what is coming, and 
 scream to their half-starved charges to try and entice a gallop 
 out of them. There is the shrill call of our old elephant, 
 "Anar Kullee." She knows that there are hailstones as big 
 as eggs in yon black cloud, and screams to be taken under 
 shelter of the nearest thicket of trees, for if elephants are 
 maddened by one thing more than another it is by hailstones. 
 
 Our khansamah, or butler, comes in and anxiously inquires 
 what is to be done with the dinner ? " Let it wait, Sahadut 
 Khan, till the storm is over, for will not the dust, and 
 then the constant thunder and hghtning, make any dinner 
 unpleasant ?" " True my lord. I go to cover everything over 
 till the storm has passed." 
 
 All this time there is not a breath to shake the tiniest leaf 
 
200 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 on that tall peepul tree, and the mind feels oppressed by the 
 deadly stillness. The lively, never-tiring, thieving Indian 
 crow, feels the solemnity of the occasion, and has retired with 
 his mates to the nearest thicket. 
 
 Now a small column of dust comes twisting and twirling 
 down the road, and we know that the play is going to com- 
 mence. All still again, and we watch with bated breath for 
 the first crash. Ah ! we were nearly blinded by that flash, 
 and the old house rings again with the peal which follows 
 without the interval of a second. A puff of hot air, a rushing 
 sound, and you are nearly blown away by the cold north wind 
 which tells of rain and the icy hailstone. Now the hurricane 
 howls through the nearest groves and against the three^feet- 
 thick walls of our old-fashioned mansion, almost drowning 
 the noise of the rolling thunder. It is nearly pitch dark, and 
 all in the house sit quietly watching the progress of the 
 storm. 
 
 The thermometer will go down twenty degrees within the 
 next hour, and wise is the man who cases himself in flannel at 
 once. The house bravely stands the storm, but we have 
 doubts as to our stable, and think anxiously of our favorite 
 horses, who are doubtless trembling and starting at every 
 fresh roar of the wind, or flash of the bright thunder-bolt. 
 At the crisis of the storm the lightning conductor has been 
 struck three or four times, and has rattled in its fastenings 
 as if it would come down. 
 
 After half an hour of the most tremendous hurly burly we 
 
EEALITIES OP INDIAN LIFE. 201 
 
 know by the rolling sound of the thunder that the worst is 
 over, and we begin to congratulate ourselves on the change 
 there will be in a day or two, when, as if by magic, the grass 
 will be green and the fields alive with the quickly pacing 
 husbandmen, anxious to get in an early crop. 
 
 At last it is fairly over. Open doors and windows, and let 
 in the deliciously cool breeze which will dispel all gloomy 
 thoughts, and make us look on hfe with brighter eyes. 
 
 Our rain guage says we have had five inches in this one 
 shower. The ditches are running like sluices, and there are 
 three or four inches of water over our lawn, or compound, as 
 we call it. This is the time for the village. boys and the 
 servants to secure a feast of fish. The whole place is alive 
 with them, and men and boys are stumbling over one 
 another in the most amusing manner in their anxiety 
 to secure a basketful. Some of them must have come 
 down with the rain, or how could they be in yonder 
 isolated pool ; but the majority have struggled up from the 
 lake at the back of the house, and are making the best of 
 their way to their spawning grounds in the low rice lands 
 which spread for miles in front of us. In an hour or two 
 after the rain, the air resounds with the croaking of countless 
 legions of frogs, full-grown monsters, yellow as saffron, who 
 will line every ditch and tank for miles round. We shall see 
 them to-morrow, in our morning drive, in one continuous 
 string for ten or fifteen miles, and yet if there is no more rain 
 and the pools dry up again, they disappear as suddenly as 
 
202 EASTWARDS, OB 
 
 they came. They must of course bury themselves in the soft 
 mud, and He hid till the rains set in in earnest. 
 
 And thus our hot day 6nds. The storm we have chronicled 
 is the harbinger of the rains, and for this year our fears of 
 being parboiled are over. It will be damp and dreary 
 enough sometimes, but it will generally be cool. Let us then 
 at last sit down to the long delayed dinner, with real appetite. 
 The wine is beautifully cooled in the hailstones, a store of 
 which has been collected by the servants. There will be no 
 punkah required, and the insects which are the general 
 accompaniment of a hot weather dinner, are all blown 
 away. 
 
 And now, kind reader, we will take up the thread of our 
 story, hoping that it may never be your lot to encounter even 
 half the annoyances which are sure to accompany a hot day 
 in Bengal. 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 203 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 A. PICNIC IN THE HIMALATAHS. 
 
 Among the two or three hundred families, living for the 
 season at Mussooree, Mrs. Templemore and Laura had 
 selected one with whom they were particularly intimate, the 
 Branscombes. 
 
 The head of the family was a civilian of the same year as 
 George Templemore, and remembered him well at College ; 
 during their sojourn in India, however, they had never met, 
 having been appointed to widely separated districts. Mrs. 
 Branscombe and his onl}'" daughter Jane were with him, the 
 remainder of his children being in Europe. Jane was a 
 thoughtful, sensible girl, and being engaged, like our heroine, 
 to a young man witliout any great position, but whom she 
 sincerely loved, it was highly natural that their confidences 
 should be unbounded. 
 
 "You will see my James,'' she said to Laura, "when the 
 rainy season is over, he will then get a month's leave, and 
 I hope, indeed I am sure, when you know him, you will like 
 him almost as much as I do." 
 
204 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 Laura sighed, and wished that Conrad had not been so far 
 away, but she was too unselfish not to sympathise with her 
 friend in her prospective pleasures, and listened untiringly to 
 all her schemes for the future. 
 
 One morning in the middle of October, Jane Branscombe 
 came running into the "Oaks" in a breathless state of 
 joyous excitement and announced the important fact of the 
 arrival of her James at last. " He is determined to make 
 the most of his trip to the hills, and is full of projects for my 
 enjoyment. One of his schemes is a picnic to the Murray 
 Falls, and I have come to-day to ask your permission, Mrs. 
 Templemore (addressing that lady), to take Laura with us. 
 We are only going to have Maria and Lizzy Jones, and a 
 friend of James', a Mr. Wapshott, who rather admires Maria. 
 We shall make such a capital gipsy party, you must allow 
 Laura to come." Mrs. Templemore laughingly gave her con- 
 sent, and next day was fixed upon for the expedition. 
 
 According to appointment, they all met at Mrs. Brans- 
 combe's and concentrated their forces before finally setting off. 
 
 James Lockley, Jane's fiance, was a dashing, good-look- 
 ing, young cavalry officer, and was in the highest possible 
 spirits at the prospect of a glorious ramble on foot, a pleasure 
 impracticable in the plains. 
 
 " The falls ought to be especially beautiful at this time of 
 the year " remarked he to Laura, "for just after the rains the 
 volume of water must be at its highest." 
 
 Little did he know that these same rains had made sad 
 
EEALITIES OF ITfDTA:^ LIFE. 205 
 
 havoc with the roads leading to the falls, nor had he asked 
 the advice of any of the older and more experienced residents 
 of the station. Hence the difficulties that were encountered ; 
 difficulties long to be remembered by those who experienced 
 them. 
 
 The distance from Mussooree to the falls \vas about six 
 miles, and when the road was in repair, there was no danger 
 or any great trouble in reaching them, though in some places 
 the track was startlingly narrow, and the precipices, over which 
 it^hung, were terrible in their unfathomable depth. 
 
 To the hillmen (Puharees) these breakneck goat paths of 
 the Himalayahs doubtless represent the most delightful of 
 promenades, but to the natives of a level country, they are 
 replete with horrors, and we have seen a native woman- 
 servant of the plains who was making her first ascent to 
 Mussooree, wrap her face up in her sheet and lie down in her 
 charpo^^ (native hed) while four sturdy hillmen carried it 
 along on their shoulders. She fancied that being dashed over 
 one of the horrible chasms, was a matter of certainty, so after 
 a little moaning and wringing of the hands, she laid herself 
 down decently to die, and thus corpse-like safely arrived 
 (much to her astonishment) at her mistress's door. 
 
 To those who have never seen anything higher than an 
 Enghsh hill or have passed half a lifetime in the flat plains of 
 Bengal, the effect produced on the nerves by the awful vast- 
 ness of the precipices of the Himalayahs is as overpowering as 
 it is painful. No Englishman ever thoroughly attains the 
 
206 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 coolness and nonchalance of the puharee, and to follow one of 
 the latter for a daj^'s journey» except on established roads, is 
 simply an impossibility. 
 
 Numerous accidents happen every year, but as it is the 
 fashion to ride in the most reckless manner, the only wonder 
 is that more do not occur. This is owing to the sagacity of 
 the horses (the wildest of which become steady on the hills) 
 and not to the prudence of their riders. 
 
 Apropos of accidents, we may here record- some which came 
 under the immediate notice of the writer. A gentleman was 
 strolling along the lower road at Landour, accompanied by a 
 favorite dog, which in its gambols ran between his legs, and 
 tripped him over. He fell slightly to one side, and went 
 headlong down some seven hundred feet. The place was not 
 a sheer precipice, but he could not recover himself, and rolled 
 with ever increasing impetus, till he reached the bottom a 
 corpse. 
 
 In another instance a lady and gentleman were riding up a 
 narrow bye path leading from the main road to the top of the 
 Camel's back, a hill so named from its shape. Their ponies 
 began to fight, rearing and kicking furiously. In the melee 
 horses and riders broke through the slight side paling and rolled 
 down the steep, which was intersected by the main road at 
 the depth of some two hundred feet, the precipice continuing 
 on the other side of it. In consequence of their being 
 entangled with their horses, nothing but certain death seemed 
 to await them, and yet both were saved in the most miracu- 
 
REALITIES OE 1NDIA>^ LIEE. 207 
 
 lous manner. The lady was stopped after rolling clear of her 
 horse by a projecting rock, and the stump of a tree caught 
 her companion in like manner. Their ponies met with a 
 terrible fate, for after reaching the main road their impetus 
 carried them across it, and after breaking the solid rail which 
 was put up for public protection, they were launched over the 
 terrific abyss, and never more seen. 
 
 Another poor animal met a similar fate in the following 
 nianner : — His master was enjoying himself at one of the 
 evening parties of the season, the horses of the guests being 
 all clustered together on the few feet of level ground surround- 
 ing the house. Beneath this was a fall of some hundred feet. 
 The groom after waiting patiently for many an hour, squatted 
 down, native like, with the unfortunate Arab's head rope in 
 his hand, and fell fast asleep. He probably dreamt of his home 
 in the far off sunny south, and forgot the terribly dangerous 
 spot he was on. Suddenly lie hears his master's voice, 
 " Get up sleeper, get up." The poor wretch awakes, is 
 flustered, and spasmodically jerks the rope ; now when a 
 horse's head is jerked, he is certain to back instead of advanc- 
 ing, and the rule held good on this occasion ; after a frantic . 
 effort to recover himself, over he went, the very saddle being 
 torn to ribands before his mutilated carcase reached the 
 bottom. 
 
 We think our readers will say — enough of such horrors, we 
 therefore return willingly to our picnic. 
 
 None of the party knew much of the hills, and the thoughts 
 
208 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 of having any dangerous adventures never occurred to the 
 gentlemen, or of course they would have declined taking 
 helpless girls on such an excursion. The Murray falls were 
 one of the lions of the neighbourhood, and that was all they 
 knew about them. 
 
 They had with them some twenty JamiDanees, or hill porters, 
 who took the ladies as far as practicable in their chairs, the 
 spare men carrying conveyances called Dandees (likehammocks 
 slung on poles) for their use should they tire of walking, the 
 paths being, we may observe, much too narrow for the ordi- 
 nary Jampan, or chair, used in the hills. 
 
 The road at first was quite an ambitious one, being six or 
 eight feet wide, and winding gradually down to a romantic 
 dell, still in sight of the houses of Landour, through which a 
 sparkling stream bustled and bounded along. In Switzer- 
 land or Scotland this would have turned the wheel of some 
 quaint old mill, passed by the rose scented garden of some 
 many gabled chalet, or rippled through some picturesquely 
 sited Alpine village, laving the feet of village maid, as she 
 crossed its mimic ford in charge of her flocks. Here, alas, 
 the only substitutes for these poetic accessories was a party of 
 native washermen, bare-legged, bare-armed, and bare-headed, 
 who with many a groan and hiss (ostler fashion) switched 
 high in air, and brought down with sounding thump on boards 
 placed at their feet, long twisted rolls of linen, which once 
 represented shapel}'- garments. Little recked they of crystal 
 stream or clear blue sky, and as long as master's duck panta- 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN' LIFE. 209 
 
 loons did not lose too many buttons, or mistress' muslin dress 
 was not in strips, the pretty burnie might run on for ever, 
 without producing any other reflection than, that it was very 
 good washing water, and yielded fourteen shillings a month 
 to each miserable utilitarian. 
 
 After leaving this spot, the track at once assumed most 
 shrivelled proportions, here slippery from the dripping of tiny 
 springs which trickled down the mountain side, or there 
 slirinking close to the wall of rock, from whose sides it had 
 been blasted, and round whose giant form it wound zone-like. 
 
 Here for the first time some slight misgivings crossed the 
 gentlemen's minds as to their prudence in coming on such a 
 journey without some previous reconnaissance, especially as 
 their fair convoy every now and then uttered little exclam- 
 ations as they crossed some extraordinarily narrow place. 
 
 It was, of course, very pleasant for Mr. Wapshott to hand 
 Maria Jones round projecting angles, which hung like cornices 
 over the oft-recurring precipices, and as long as there was a 
 margin of say two or three feet, it was quite delicious to feel 
 the pressure of her plump litfcle hand as she clung to him for 
 aid, but when there was no margin at all, and one slip sent 
 you literally to nobody knows where, flirting was out of the 
 question. Not only did the path grow narrower, but on the 
 scarped side of it, brambles threw down their cunninglj'- sus- 
 pended creepers, so that to avoid having their hats torn 
 off or eyes scratched out, it was necessary to keep as close to 
 the precipice as their nerves would allow ; seeing moreover 
 
 14 
 
210 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 that, on the average, there were only some three feet in width 
 to walk on, there was not much room for eccentricities of srait. 
 Crinoline was happily unknown in those days, so by dint of 
 pinning their dresses in as small a compass as possible, the 
 ladies managed to get on pretty well, and especially Jane 
 Branscombe, who, with her James, had lightly tripped some 
 hundred yards ahead of the rest of the party. 
 
 Neither of the Misses Jones, who were from Calcutta, had, 
 till their arrival at Mussooree, ever seen anything higher than a 
 molehill, and were terribly bad walkers ; but the spirit they dis- 
 played on this occasion, deserved the highest commendation. 
 
 As the dangers of the road increased, all the little airs and 
 graces of young ladyhood had to be summarily discarded, and 
 Maria Jones having stumbled in the most dangerous manner 
 half a dozen times, Mr. "Wapshott tied her shawl baby fashion 
 in a knot at her back, and held her up by the same at every 
 one of the bad places. All, of course, walked in Indian file, 
 and Lizzie Jones and Laura being light and active, managed 
 almost to keep up with Jane Branscombe, who, with the 
 assistance of her lover, seemed to flit over places which were 
 enough to make one shudder. Mr. Wapshott, who weighed 
 about sixteen stone, and who had long ago given over the 
 idea of flitting over anything, several times contemplated a 
 retrograde movement, but the others had advanced beyond 
 shouting distance ; and Maria Jones, his special charge, seemed 
 to be determined to follow them or die. 
 
 Under these circumstances, it was impossible for him to 
 
EEALTTIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 211 
 
 suggest a more prudent course, so on they struggled with 
 desperate resolution. 
 
 At last they came to a place which made their past diffi- 
 culties appear mere child's play, and in a moment one life 
 was terribly imperilled. 
 
 The path had originally overhung a ravine or cleft in the 
 hill side, but was now washed away, they were therefore 
 forced to descend into it, and regain the track by climbing 
 up the opposite side. On the left was a precipice of un- 
 known depth, sheer from the side of which the descent com- 
 menced. One of the hillmen stood on the brink of the 
 chasm, another stationed himself a few feet lower down the 
 ravine, and with their aid Mr. Wapshott handed their fair 
 companions one after the other down to James Lockley, 
 who stood on comparatively level ground. 
 
 Poor dear Dudu-like Maria, who was the last to descend, 
 did not fare so well as the others. Her feet and ankles 
 seemed to have arrived at a nearly imbecile state. 
 
 " A good hold of my hand," said Mr. Wapshott, " now plant 
 your feet firmly above that root, your other hand to the 
 Jampanee, one step, two, three, the next man will have you, and 
 you will be safe." This calculation was a little too rapid however, 
 for without taking time, she, with a small scream, plumped 
 light down on the first hillman, and cut his feet away from 
 under him. He had only to fall backwards, and he was gone 
 for ever, but with native coolness he clutched more firmly the 
 long tuft of grass, with which he had steadied himself from the 
 
212 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 beginning, and by its aid lightly swung himself back again to 
 his place. The second Jampanee caught Maria before she 
 had gained any great impetus from her fali, and Mr. Wapshott 
 with one hand leaninq; over, seized her shawl. " Thank God 
 you are safe," gasped he. 
 
 She was too frightened to speak then, but she thanked him 
 so sweetly afterwards — of which more anon. The man who 
 had the narrow escape seemed to think nothing of it, and at 
 once smilingly offered his services down the rest of the descent. 
 
 After this exciting incident the road was for two or three 
 miles comparatively good, and all recovered their spirits and 
 gaiety, which were, however, soon damped, by their coming 
 to a most appalHng place, which we shall try to describe. The 
 portion of the hill out of which the path had been scarped, 
 was composed of a loose mass of shale and pebbles, the artifi- 
 cial supports of which having given way for about fifty feet, 
 the road had shpped, till it formed the same angle as the 
 debris above and below it. The whole was in such an unstable 
 condition, that a stick thrust into it, at once formed a little 
 rivulet of pebbles. About thu'ty feet below^ where the road 
 had been, this treacherous slope suddenly stopped, and the usual 
 unfathomable precipice began. Any one, therefore, missing 
 his footing and being unable to recover himself before he 
 reached the chasm was lost beyond recall. 
 
 When the rest of the party reached this spot they found Jane 
 Branscombe and her companion holding an animated discussion 
 with the hillmen. She had urged her lover not to return, and the 
 
REALITIES OF INDIA?^ LIFE. 2l3 
 
 Jampanees had already commenced to make a path, by creep- 
 ing across the crumbling face of the hill, and patting down 
 with their hands the pebbles in front of them, but even they 
 with their monkey-like feet and slight bodies made deep holes 
 wherever they rested; what then would happen when the 
 heavy-booted Englishmen attempted to cross it ? 
 
 The gentlemen now thought it their duty to interfere, and 
 said, however much they might be laughed at on their return 
 it was wrong to run so much risk without an adequate object, 
 especially as they had a good excuse in being the first travel- 
 lers on this route since the rains. But words were of no avail, 
 some horrid fascination seemed to exist in the word on, and 
 the four girls were determined to accomplish their purpose 
 at all hazards. A chain was formed, by a dozen hillmen 
 holding each other's hands, from one side of the gap to the 
 other. Lockley, who was to show the way, seized the last 
 one's hand firmly, and then all ran lightly across. The ladies 
 then followed, having the further security of some of the long 
 dandee poles held on the precipice side at about the level of 
 their waists. Last of all ponderous John Wapshott ploughed 
 his way to the other side. 
 
 It is no wonder that the natives of India consider all 
 Europeans more or less mad, from the, to them inexplicable, 
 vagaries which they indulge in, and here was a case in point. 
 Four girls did, for hardly any object, what to then: was a feat 
 involving difficulty and danger, and yet like high spirited 
 Englishwomen they went through it. 
 
214 EASTWAEDS, OE 
 
 A party of men were set to work to plant boulders along the 
 hillside against their return, and as they were near their jour- 
 ney's end, the day beautiful, and the place they had reached 
 romantic beyond description, they sat down for a while to 
 calm their excitement and silently drink in the beauties of 
 the scene. 
 
 The spot they had chosen afforded the greatest breadth of 
 level land they had met in their day's walk, and its beauty 
 invited them to lie down and rest luxuriously mid the long 
 silky grass. Above, was a pure cloudless sky, around, moun- 
 tains upon mountains raised their majestic forms, while the 
 most tremendous precipices in the world frowned on all sides. 
 The air was perfectly still, not a leaf stirred in the thick 
 forests at their feet, no signs of human habitations met the 
 eye, solitude in its grandest and most awe-inspiring form 
 reigned supreme. Giant trees were diminished to the size of 
 mushrooms down in the far off valleys, or were blended into 
 one indistinct mass of green on the higher ranges of hills, 
 which are here about ten thousand feet above the sea level, 
 while shining above them, in all their indescribable grandeur, 
 the silvery peaks of the snowy range towered into the very 
 heavens, the grandest monument of omnipotence that mortal 
 eye can behold. 
 
 It was a dreamy, delicious moment — no one spoke. Pic- 
 turesquely grouped, they reclined in careless ease on that 
 grassy bank, each absorbed in thought. 
 
 The girls, with their hair dishevelled and faces flushed 
 
REALITIES OF INDTAT^ LIFE. 215 
 
 with excitement and exercise, looked different beings to 
 what they had been when they started in the morning, and 
 were, we have no doubt, not a little delighted at the ad- 
 miration and compliments which the gentlemen could not 
 help bestowing on their determination and rosy faces. 
 
 The small eyed, Tartar- visaged Jampanees sunk down in 
 all possible attitudes in a circle round them, making the 
 fair English girls look all the more beautiful by the 
 contrast. 
 
 Dear countrywomen who are lost in the crowd in England, 
 would you be appreciated, go to India and you will realize 
 all your dreams. 
 
 After a while, Maria Jones took the opportunity, timidly 
 but with heartfelt emotion shown in each trembling accent, 
 of thanking Mr. A¥apshott for the aid he had afforded her ; 
 and for the only time in his life that really eloquent young 
 bachelor could not say anything appropriate in reply. 
 There is no doubt, however, that that romantic hillside 
 put, as it were, the last nail into the coffin of his single 
 blessedness, and indeed we cannot help saying that he 
 must have been a hardened wretch if he could have with- 
 stood the combination of fascinations of that eventful day. 
 Mrs. Wapshott (late M. J.) often jokes him about it now, 
 and says when her daughters grow up she kn'ows an in- 
 fallible way of bringing all wavering admirers to the point. 
 
 At this place the gentlemen, fowling-piece in hand, 
 sauntered into the adjoining valley in the hopes of finding 
 
216 EASTWAllDS, OB 
 
 a plieasant or two, or maybe a brace of the beautiful chick- 
 ore partridge of the hills, but they were not successful, 
 and soon returned to their fair companions. 
 
 In half an hour the ladies reluctantly rose, and left the 
 rest-invitiiig spot, for they had still a mile to go. Tip and 
 away is the word, and they march along full of curiosity to 
 behold the far-famed falls which had led them over such 
 break-neck places. 
 
 The roar of the water was the first intimation of their 
 arrival at their destination, and after some search (for none 
 of the hillmen had been there before) they found that the 
 approach to the falls lay some hundred feet below. It was 
 a mere semblance of a track, scrambling down which, they 
 were soon encompassed by trees. These thickeued as they 
 descended, and gradually formed a canopy over them. A 
 little further on they reached the edge of the mountain 
 side, overhanging the falls, and in an instant the wondrous 
 scene burst upon their view. 
 
 On all sides the hills had closed in, forming a narrow 
 bottomless abyss, hidden in its lower depths by dense forest 
 — above the same cause bounded the vision. Down this 
 beginningless, endless chasm poured in a solid stream, a 
 hundred feet high, the irresistible mass of water, the distant 
 rumbling of which came back to the ear in fitful cadences. 
 
 These falls are not remarkable for their great breadth, 
 but, as we have explained above, no distinct view of 
 the point from which they leap can be obtained, nor can 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 217 
 
 the eye reach the spot where they thunder down into the 
 valley below. 
 
 This makes them all the more mysteriously beautiful, and 
 sets the imagination to work to picture the wild crags from 
 which this embryo river springs, and the awful leaps it 
 must take before it finally settles down in its soft bed of 
 sand far away in the level plains. 
 
 The sun shone brightly on the dazzling column of water, 
 while our friends were in the deepest shade, the oak and 
 walnut covering them with their thick foliage, while grace- 
 ful ferns of every size and hue filled every nook and corner. 
 
 After silently feasting on the strange beauties of the 
 place, our party chose a grassy spot, and throwing them- 
 selves down discussed the good things they had brought 
 with them. The girls amused themselves by making the 
 hillmen bring them the broad green leaves of the walnut, 
 which they wreathed round their riding hats, thus making 
 them sun-proof for the journey home, while their cavaliers 
 lay at lordly ease, and smiled approvingly. 
 
 The lengthening shadows at last warned them that they 
 had their difficulties to encounter over again, so bracing up 
 their strength and courage they started, if not so merrily 
 as in the morning, at any rate more determinedly, and with 
 some of the nonchalance of custom. 
 
 After walking a mile or two, James Lockley, who led the 
 way, saw, on the other side of the bay formed by the road 
 following the indentation of the hill- side, a herd of tame 
 
218 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 buffaloes evidently returning to some village in tlie direction 
 of the falls, but which had been invisible to our travellers. 
 
 A hot flush of blood coursed through his veins, when he 
 thought of the possibility of the sulky quadrupeds disputing 
 the path with them, and he at once ordered on some of the 
 most active hillmen to try to turn the animals down one of the 
 less precipitous gullies, near which they had been feeding. 
 
 The spot the ladies had arrived at was one in which the 
 road had narrowed to about three feet, and a wall of rock 
 on the left, some twenty feet high, defied all efforts at 
 escalade, while on the right, the thick tangled forest just 
 topped the level of the path. 
 
 It was an anxious moment, for Lockley knew that if the 
 buffaloes, which were only half tamed, once became excited, 
 or saw the unwonted dress of Europeans, they would be- 
 come quite unmanageable. 
 
 Preparing for the worst, he and Mr. Wapshott stood in 
 front of the girls, and dropping a ball into each barrel of 
 their guns, stood breathlessly watching the movements of 
 the Puharees, These last quickly reached the flock of 
 buffaloes, and native like, halloed and screamed to make 
 them leave the road, pelting them with no gentle hand 
 with pieces of rock. The huge, sulky brutes, tossed their 
 horns over their backs, and after staring awhile, grunted 
 out a series of signals to one another, and then for the 
 most part dropped one by one, down to the most con- 
 venient ledges below where they had been standing. 
 
REALITIES OF IXDIAl^" LIFE. 219 
 
 One cow, however, wliich had been severely struck on 
 the head by a stone, and was probably thinking of the calf 
 which she had been expecting to join ere long, would not 
 follow the rest, and with a loud bellow thundered along the 
 track. The puharees threw themselves monkey-like among 
 the trees, and one or two braver than the rest who tried to 
 stop the infuriated animal were tossed over the precipice 
 or galloped over by the infuriated monster, who made 
 straight for the place our friends were standing. As the 
 gentlemen heard the bellowing of the fast approaching 
 buffalo, they begged the girls to lie down close to the foot 
 of the rock, and then with clenched teeth and beating 
 hearts knelt down and cocked their guns. 
 
 " Don't fire till she is right on us," whispered Lockley, 
 " let us give her the four barrels all at once, and the chances 
 are we will stop her." 
 
 A few seconds elapse — the sharp clatter of the heavy 
 hoofs of the buffalo are heard, as she winds round the few 
 projecting angles which separate her from our unfortunate 
 friends — now she comes full upon them, and suddenly 
 falters as she sees the unexpected apparition of two figures 
 in white kneeling before her. It was impossible for her to 
 turn, and with a louder bellow she rushed straight on. As 
 she reached within a few paces, both guns were levelled, 
 and when Lockley whispered '' Xow'' she received the four 
 barrels full in the face. 
 
 One frantic attempt was made by her to stop, and then 
 
220 EASTWARDS, OH 
 
 she tried to turn, but it was useless, a little of the path 
 gave way under her feet, and she was launched headlong 
 into the mass of trees, the crushing branches of which told 
 of the depth down which she had fallen. 
 
 The poor girls were nearly dead with terror, and it was 
 some minutes before they could be assured that they were 
 safe. 
 
 The puharees having after a while returned, they were 
 put into the dandees and carefully carried along. 
 
 None of the men had been killed by their fall, but two of 
 them had broken arms, while one had two or three ribs 
 fractured by the ponderous tread of the buffalo as it gal- 
 loped over him. The poor fellows were carried along on 
 litters extemporised for them by their fellow porters, and in 
 melancholy procession all slowly wended their way home- 
 wards. 
 
 The dandees are anything but a comfortable or elegant 
 conveyance, the rider having to sit sideways in the ham- 
 mock-like cloth of which it is formed, and nothing but 
 sheer necessity could possibly tempt any one, who has a 
 sense of the ridiculous, to get into one of them. The pole 
 comes just under the chin of the occupant, and we must say 
 that a more ungraceful seat was never fashioned. Turning 
 some of the projecting portions of the path the ladies' feet 
 sometimes projected over the pracipices, and at these places 
 the slightest stumble on the part of the bearers would have 
 been certain death to all. 
 
EEALITIES OP INDIAN LIFE. 221 
 
 Tired and Trorn out by their exertions both mental and 
 bodily, our party were at length glad to find themselves at 
 the place where their horses and chairs awaited them. 
 
 Jane Branscombe and James Locldey saw Laura safely 
 home, while Mr. Wapshott accompanied the Misses Jones, 
 who lived at the other end of the station. 
 
 After hearing their adventures Mrs. Templemore could 
 not help saying, *' Well Laura, you seem determined to 
 make your experiences of India as sensational as possible. 
 I wonder what Conrad will say when he hears of the dangers 
 you have gone through." Laura could not help feeling the 
 imprudence of her conduct, but determined in her own 
 mind to make all amends she could for it by telling her 
 lover the whole truth when they met, and she felt sure that 
 he would speedily pardon her. 
 
 The rainy season being fairly over, Mrs. Templemore 
 once more made ready for a long journey. It was now to 
 be diversified by a trip in one of the river steamers from 
 Allahabad which would land them near their destination, 
 Neelapore. Thoughts of meeting those they had loved ren- 
 dered the leaving the hills a less unpleasant task than it 
 would otherwise have been, and proved the truth of the 
 remark, that persons more than places make home the para- 
 dise it is, or at any rate ought to be. The African mission- 
 ary, with his wife and family has his in an old bullock wag- 
 gon, still it is home. No doubt love of locality is also a 
 stronfi' feeling, but remove all old friends and relations from 
 
222 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 your boyhood's haunts, and you will then seek in vain for 
 the charm with which you had once invested them through 
 all your long years of foreign wanderings. 
 
 Everything was at last ready, and our heroine and her 
 aunt got into their chairs (the ponies having already been 
 sent on) for the last time, and turned their backs on the 
 glorious scenery which they w^ould probably never see 
 again. 
 
 Tramp, tramp, the sturdy little hillmen trot down the 
 descent, past mules laden with the produce of the plains, 
 past groups of hill coolies toiling up with their heavy creels, 
 down through the region of the oak, wild pear tree, gigan- 
 tic rhododendron and pine, till the clump of bamboos waving 
 at the foot of the pass tells them they are in the plains once 
 more. Now they travel in doolies, long things like meat- 
 safes, as far as Meerut, where their old friend the dawk 
 carriage is waiting to take them down to Allahabad. 
 
 Eour days of the usual routine of such journeys is passed 
 through, and here is Hampton on his pony come out to 
 meet them, having heard of the probable time of their 
 arrival in a letter from their last resting place. 
 
 '• Good gracious, Laura," he said, " what a stock of rosy 
 colour you have laid in, and aunt, positively you look like 
 her sister." 
 
 You see Hampton was learning the ways of the world 
 pretty fast. 
 
 " But you, Hampton, how can you have got up such a 
 
REALITIES or INDIA5^ LIFE. 223 
 
 moustache," said his sister, " in so short a time, it is alarm- 
 ing, positively." 
 
 Hampton laughed cheerily, and, as he passed his 
 hand over liis upper lip, said that " we military men make 
 everything subservient to discipline, and why not mous- 
 tache, ahem!" and with this sage remark he put heels to 
 his pony and cantered off to apprise their friends of his 
 aunt's arrival. 
 
 The steamer started in a couple of days, and now the 
 comfortless carriage was exchanged for a nice roomy cabin. 
 
 Nothing can be more pleasant than a short trip in one of 
 these river boats during the cold weather. They are 
 thatched over from stem to stern, and the whole of the deck 
 in front of the engine is given up for the comfort of the 
 passengers. Side curtains keep out the glare of the midday 
 sun, the river air is cool and bracing and the motion is scarcely 
 perceptible ; so with a gentlemanly and liberal captain and 
 an agreeable party many a happy hour can be passed on 
 the bosom of old mother Granges. At the commencement 
 of the cold weather numbers of officers and their families 
 go down by this route to Calcutta on their way to England, 
 and if they have been long up country, the observant and 
 critical g^-iff may find ample food for reflection and wonder 
 at the ease with which people can make guys of themselves 
 and yet be perfectly satisfied. The bonnets and dresses of 
 the ladies are some five years behind the fashion, and the 
 faded washed-out look of the wearers, and their silks and 
 
224 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 ribbons, would be laughable were it not almost pitiable. 
 The men are generally ten years older in appearance than 
 they are in reality, and rather affect raggeduess as to flannel 
 coats and ruggedness as to beard and hair. They are full 
 of hope at the idea of once more visiting boyhood's scenes, 
 and their wives calculate on being able " to manage so 
 well on that extra thousand pounds which John has saved 
 out of his pay," but which gigantic sum dwindles down in 
 so short a time that, poor man, he is glad to make his way 
 back as soon as possible to his old quarters, and hugs his 
 Indian pay and allowances closer and m.ore fondly in his 
 arms. 
 
 We must now leave our travellers for a while, and enter 
 upon a subject which will influence the remainder of our 
 narrative. 
 
KEALTTIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 225 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 THE MUTINIES OF 1857. — THE SHEEISTADAR AND THE 
 BANIAN. — A TENTING SCENE. — THE GIPSY GIRL. 
 
 About this time were heard the first faint mutterings of 
 the storm which was to dash the crazy fabric of British 
 power in Bengal to the ground, leaving here and there 
 intact, that portion which was built, not on the mercenarj 
 affections of its Sepoy army, or supposed attachment of the 
 people, but on the true hearts and stout arms of its handful 
 of English officers and soldiers. 
 
 Numerous accounts have been written of this great tragedy, 
 the Indian Mutiny. Each member of Grovernment, both in 
 India and in England, has thought his solution of the 
 question the right one. The diagnosis of the disease, with 
 its minutest symptoms, have been faithfully recorded, but 
 there has been no accord in naming the cause of the dread 
 malady. " Greased cartridges," exclaims one, " That cause, 
 simple as it may appear, was the real one." " The annex- 
 ation of Oude had something to do with it," whispers 
 another. "The paucity of European officers in, and lax 
 discipline of, the Sepoy army," a third very boldly asserts 
 
 15 
 
226 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 to be the undoubted reason. This great soldier and that 
 distinguished civilian had often said the native army v^ould 
 one day be our worst enemies, but did any man in England 
 or India act as if he saw into the future ? Not one. 
 
 In India when the plot began to disclose itself, unbelieving 
 astonishment was the principal feeling in every breast 
 among the Government employes, and it is not surprising 
 that in the European portion, the grossest ignorance of the 
 machinations devised against them should have prevailed ; 
 but how the Eurasians, forming a large part of the un- 
 covenanted* civil service, and who are half natives by blood, 
 kept in the dark, w^as more wonderful, and was decidedly 
 creditable to the powers of combination and reticence pos- 
 sessed by the wily Hindoo or vindictive Mahomedan. 
 
 "When we affirm that the European servants of Govern- 
 ment were in total ignorance of the plot, and when, also, 
 we say that it was not astonishing they were so, we may 
 be asked how this could be? Judges, collectors, magis- 
 trates, living among the people, did they hear or see nothing ? 
 " No," we answer, "nothing !" But the reason ? Because 
 they were hedged in by their own vanity, by comparative 
 ignorance of the language or feelings of the people, and by 
 a mob of lickspittle, cringing, despicable native officials and 
 private servants, who persuaded each civilian that he was 
 the only true incarnation of wisdom, while really the rascals 
 
 * Uncovenanted is the term used to describe those civil employes 
 who did not sign a covenant in England. 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 227 
 
 had their tongues in their cheeks, visibly to their brethren, 
 but hidden from the hood-winked white man. This may 
 appear an exaggerated account of the matter, but it is not 
 so, and no one with only European experience, can come to 
 a just appreciation of the subject. 
 
 Suppose some amiable British nobleman were appointed 
 to administer the law in the Peejee Islands, having only a 
 moderate knowledge of the legal language and intricate 
 customs of those fascinating savages, and being assisted 
 through two-thirds of every difficult decision by his head 
 Feejeean assistant (in India the sheristadar). Suppose, 
 moreover, the Feejeeans to be utterly unprincipled, talented 
 to a degree unknown in Europe in the science of lying, 
 forging, and dissimulation; the most accurate judges of 
 character, and therefore able to fool any one to the top of 
 his bent. Suppose them to abhor any one who is a Christian, 
 with whom all social intercourse is forbidden on account of 
 caste. And lastly, suppose these people to be so reticent, 
 so suspicious of motives, that they weigh each question, and 
 then answer it, not according to the truth, but as it suits 
 them, and you have some idea of the chances of utility of 
 the British nobleman to the Eeejeean empire, and you have 
 the exact counterpart of the Bengal civilian. 
 
 "We do not impugn the understanding of the civilians as 
 a body, for they were average Englishmen, but they were 
 helpless in the hands of their officials, who lived upon bribes, 
 and not only so, but bought large landed estates with the 
 
228 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 accumulations thereof. Go into any district in Bengal, and 
 inquire whose is that fine house ? or who is the proprietor 
 of such a zemindarry, or grand state elephant ? or, in fact, 
 anything strikingly good, and in seven cases out of ten you 
 will be told it belongs to so-and-so, who (or his father or 
 grandfather) was a court official in such a district, the salary 
 of that office being formerly, perhaps, sixty pounds sterling 
 a year, and now-a-days say two hundred pounds. 
 
 "We have one more strange fact connected with this sub- 
 ject to explain. It is that justice was to a certain extent 
 to be found in the courts (really though not nominally) pre- 
 sided over by these men. They were too wise to kill the goose 
 hy flagrant acts. The established routine was thus : — A 
 bribe was demanded, through their attorneys, at the com- 
 mencement of each case, graduated to its importance, from 
 both plaintiff and defendant, and woe be to either who did 
 not deposit the same with a mutual friend (a banker), or 
 otherwise guarantee the payment of it when due. The suit 
 was then entered on, documents, witnesses, &c., being all 
 examined in due form. The native officials soon saw on 
 which side the right was, and unless it was a great man 
 against a very little one, or an outrageously large douceur 
 balanced against a very small one, generally led their 
 European puppet to decide in favour of the proper party. 
 Where every witness was false, or only partially truthful, 
 and nearly every document the same, this was easily 
 managed. The settled commission of the attorneys on each 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 229 
 
 bribe was ten per cent., and the losing party had his money 
 returned to him. 
 
 We may here make a few remarks on a subject, the right 
 reading of which will place the position of Englishmen in 
 India in a clearer light to the European reader, and enable 
 him to realize the inner details of life in the East, without 
 knowing which, he is apt to form his opinions on a false 
 standard, viz., that of his own country. 
 
 The topic we would discuss is the position held by the 
 natives of India, as the instruments by which every detail 
 of work whether political, mercantile, or domestic is con- 
 ducted. On the willingness of the latter to undertake such 
 work hinges our possession of that vast empire ; and from 
 the first day of our landing to the present moment, the co- 
 operation of the natives, whether as allies, or as betrayers of 
 their fellow-countrymen and often kinsmen, or as servants, 
 has enabled us to gain the footing which the mere bravery 
 of our handful of English troops, or the intrinsic merit of 
 the governing units could never have accomplished. This 
 willingness to side with the invader we firmly believe to be 
 instinctive, and therefore decreed by an all wise but in- 
 scrutable Providence, which has ordained that for a longer 
 or a shorter period the light of western civilization sliQuld 
 illumine the scene which the worn out lamp of ancient 
 heathenism has for so many ages, but with gradually de- 
 creasing strength, kept in a mysterious and truth destroying 
 gloom. 
 
230 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 No doubt the invincible bravery of our race bas been 
 
 as the spirit of our conquest, but tbe body containing or 
 
 co-operating with that spirit, each being a mutual necessity 
 
 to the other, has been the enlistment of the conquered on 
 
 our side. This is proveable in a few words, and in fact 
 
 requires no proof to the thinking Indian reader, but to the 
 
 uninitiated, we may simply and briefly state, that for eight 
 
 months in the year, the transportation of a regiment of 
 
 English soldiers one hundred miles from Calcutta without 
 
 native agency would be an impossibility. Their live stock 
 
 and bread materials would firstly be gathered together by 
 
 natives ; their very baggage would be placed by natives on 
 
 carts guided by natives, or in boats manned by them ; and 
 
 even in the case of the river steamers, the crews of which 
 
 are all native, we do not believe that European seamen, 
 
 except in a desperate strait, could conduct them beyond a 
 
 few days' journey. The grand secret being that physical 
 
 exertion in the sun is certain death to the white man. 
 
 Exceptional cases only prove the rule, and no one, we 
 think, will gainsay our assertion. 
 
 Seeing that the above is the case, it will be understood at 
 once why there can be no such class as poor whites in India, 
 and why every detail of life is entrusted to the native. 
 There is a race of Eurasians numbering many thousands ; 
 but the respectable portion of it is gradually being absorbed 
 by intermarriage with Europeans, and the disreputable 
 portion is beneath the standard of the natives. As we have 
 
BEALITTES OF INDIAN LIFE. 231 
 
 said above, we believe there is an instinctive attraction 
 to the white man on the part of his darker brethren ; but 
 this does not take the form of love or reverence, not in the 
 least, it takes its material form in the worship of rupees, 
 bright glistening rupees, for which " son has sold father, and 
 brother," brother, ever since our rule commenced, and for 
 generations before that event, during the Mogul occupation. 
 
 The one trait in the English character which overwhelms 
 the native by its sublimity, in which he excels the Maho- 
 medan conqueror of Hind by a thousand-fold, is his lavish 
 expenditure of rupees. To the native, the sums which 
 great and small, from the commissioner of a district down to 
 spendthrift Bill Jones, the indigo planter's assistant, throw 
 about with reckless hands have, for the last hundred years, 
 been conception-bewildering, and soul-entrancing. 
 
 " Ingreze Ki Nowkree Dhun Ka Grhur." An English- 
 man's service is the abode (storehouse) of wealth. 
 
 Thus has said the Hindoo for many a long day, but there 
 have been signs (such as the mutiny of 1857), and there are 
 many now, that the higher classes of the native community 
 have had enough of the foreigners' gold ; and when this 
 feeling extends to the lower, there will come a crisis in 
 Indian affairs, the end of which it is not difficult to foresee. 
 
 In the mean time, there are multitudes who are slaves of 
 the ring, (of rupees,) and we shall try to show how they 
 behave under its magic influence. 
 
 Before, however, lifting our drop scene or introducing 
 
232 EASTWARDS, OB 
 
 our actors, we must for the second time ask our English 
 reader to accept another great fact in connection with our 
 tenure of India, which will perhaps surprise him as 
 much as the first we have begged him to believe, it is, 
 that in all the governing or official classes, about one 
 pure Englishman in a thousand understands the language 
 of the district he may be in, not as well as Charles 
 Matthews does French, but say as well as a Hebrew pro- 
 fessor at Oxford or Cambridge understands that ancient 
 language — ninety and nine out of the thousand can speak 
 it correctly, without having the slightest knowledge of its 
 poetry, proverbs, domestic economy, religion, &c, ; five 
 hundred of the remainder can make themselves understood 
 in their courts and offices in a more or less anglicised jargon ; 
 and the balance vary in efficiency from the man who 
 thinks he can read and write the language, because he can 
 scrawl two lines of a stereotyped order, to him who wanted 
 to know what Grao was (Hindee for cow), and was told that 
 it was Bail, Ka, Beebee, or the ox's wife. 
 
 In every transaction, whether in a court of law or in a 
 merchant's office, there is a private discussion on the merits 
 of the case held by the native subordinates in secret con- 
 clave, of which some of the more astute of their masters have 
 a suspicion, but of which the less experienced know nothing. 
 
 Let us analyse a law-suit. 
 
 The principal actors in this are — 
 
 Eirst. A judge or magistrate. 
 
REALITIES or INDIAN LIFE. 283 
 
 Secondly. The Sheristadar, who is chief clerk, translator 
 general, reader, interpolator (as it may suit him), 
 influencer, legal adviser, and head conspirator. 
 Thirdly. The Juban bundee nuvees, or deposition-taker, 
 who writes in the language of the particular district 
 the case is laid in. He is seated out of hearing of 
 the judge, and is conspirator jS'o. 2. 
 Fourthly. Mohurir who does the sheristadar's junior's 
 work. This is conspirator No. 3, and is of a humble 
 type. 
 Fifthly. Vakeels or Grovernment pleaders. 
 Sixthly. Mooktars, attorneys for the litigants. 
 Seventhly. Witnesses. These are generally professional, 
 and paid from sixpence to ten shillings a day. When 
 they are relatives of plaintiff or defendant they are 
 generally the most disreputable members of their 
 families, who sacrifice themselves on the altar of 
 friendship, and are despised by every one belonging 
 to them. 
 The first step in a suit is of course to submit the papers 
 to the vakeels and mooktars, who decide on the probabilities 
 of success ; not basing such decision on its equity or law, 
 but on the plausibility of its fictitious documents, and the 
 amount of gullability of the judge. 
 
 This settled, the mooktar steals quietly at night, (perhaps 
 midnight, for the natives are very owls in their habits) to 
 the sheristadar's house. He gently coughs outside the 
 
234 . EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 wall or screen surrounding all eastern dwellings, and in 
 answer to the challenge of some dependant who is lounging 
 about, whispers " It is I, Beharee Lull." He walks in, and 
 knowing the geography of the place, at once makes for the 
 verandah where he will find the great man's rossyah (cook), 
 who is always a favorite confidant. To him he states that 
 he has occasion to see his master, and is referred to con- 
 fidant No. 2, generally a fifteenth cousin, and hanger-on of 
 the sheristadar's, whom we will call Mukes Chunder E-ay. 
 This gentleman calls the mooktar into some verandah or 
 ante-room, and politely ofiers him a seat on a mat, then 
 calls for his hookah, and waits patiently for the story. 
 
 This is glibly told, and then a long silence ensues, broken 
 only by the guggle guggle of the hookah. " "Well, Moktar- 
 gee," at last replies confidant No. 2, " yours is a bad case ; 
 you can't expect me to speak to the E-ay sahib (supposing the 
 sheristadar's name to be Hay, say Bisnauth Chunder Eay) 
 on such a very poor case, really you can't.'''' The mooktar 
 knows this is only a form, and so does the first speaker, for 
 the matter of that. " Hum," he says, "there are certainly 
 difficulties ; but we can get over them. The papers will be 
 in proper form, and the witnesses excellently tutored, and 
 of course the E-ay sahib need not tell the judge that the 
 succession in that family is well known by the whole country 
 side to be in such and such a line." 
 
 " Hah, it will be rather difficult to hide the facts ; for 
 the judge becomes more and more particular every day." 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAK LIFE. 235 
 
 "Bhala" (all right), replies tlie mooktar, " my master is 
 
 rich, and " and here he goes through a certain pan- 
 
 tomine. 
 
 Perhaps he holds up one finger, meaning thereby one 
 hundred rupees. 
 
 This only produces a shake of the head. 
 
 Two fingers — 
 
 Another shake, not quite so energetic. 
 
 Then more fingers, according to the magnitude of the 
 case, and when the amount is settled, the jackal retires to 
 consult the lion who dares not commit himself to any one. 
 After a while he returns and says, " You can come and see 
 the Eay sahib." 
 
 After polite salutations, the mooktar probably inquires 
 whether his journey (juttra) will be attended with success, 
 and the oracle answers in similarly enigmatical language, 
 "Yes, if the proper rites are performed, of which my cousin 
 will give you particulars, there need be no fear." 
 
 At the due time, the sheristadar stares the mooktar in the 
 face, during the course of the mock trial, bullies him well 
 when the opportunity ofi'ers, and goes through the whole 
 farce charmingly ; while the poor judge patiently wades 
 through the case, and heartily wishes himself thousands of 
 miles away in any country, where he might have one real 
 friend in court to assist him, and where the atmosphere is 
 not so pestiferous as that of a crowded Bengalee cutchery. 
 
 If the dignity of the law is thus made a laughing-stock 
 
236 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 of, what shall we say of the details of a merchant's office in 
 Calcutta. 
 
 Some of the civilians can talk the language of the country, 
 but the English heads of the trading firms do not pretend 
 to even a smattering of it. 
 
 Instead of acquiring the necessary knowledge, they have 
 ordered their language to be learned, and seeing the fabulous 
 profit accruing therefrom, all native clerkdom has obeyed. 
 
 But this does not advance them a step out of the thral- 
 dom which every white man is under in India. 
 
 If the judge has his sheristadar, the merchant has a 
 familiar spirit quite as potent, a Mephistopheles who lures 
 him to his ruin, fattening like a horse leech on his victim's 
 life blood, who allows him to sell or buy only as he thinks 
 fit, who worms out all his secrets, and tells him none in 
 return ; who finds him in cash, and takes all his profits, he has 
 that veritable skeleton in his closet — the Calcutta Banian. 
 
 The whole wealth of Bengal is centred in these men ; and 
 when we consider that not one Englishmen in ten for the 
 last fifty years has left Calcutta with great riches ; while 
 thousands of these scoundrels have amassed colossal fortunes, 
 made in the very offices of the men who have remained 
 beggars ; it will easily be believed that the whole of the real 
 profits of trade are absorbed by them. 
 
 The banian is a kind of private banker, keeping a certain 
 amount of cash available for his master's business. He also 
 guarantees all sales made to natives, being allowed for so 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAIN^ LIFE. 237 
 
 doing, interest for his money, and what is called dustooree, 
 which is about 2 per cent, on every transaction. This gua- 
 rantee system arises from the absurd custom of there being 
 credit allowed to native purchasers, while the European has 
 to pay cash. The banian being really master, when acting as 
 the slave, is enabled to ascertain the real invoice prices 
 of English goods, as well as the real account sales of produce 
 shipped home, and having arranged with his colleagues in 
 their secret rendezvous what is to be done, only allows 
 purchasers to appear who have guaranteed him a certain per 
 centage on the purchase or sale, whichever it may be. 
 
 If they see a large profit realizable on any goods held by 
 their masters, they secure them, le namee, (that is in 
 another name) at perhaps a trifling rise above the invoice 
 cost ; and by their influence they never allow a combination 
 of white men against black, while there is a chronic state 
 of exactly the reverse. 
 
 A Calcutta merchant has very tritely remarked, " the 
 European competes, the native combines." 
 
 This gentleman has told us that he could hardly ever 
 repeat a favorable order from Europe, from the treachery 
 in his office. 
 
 He made a large profit once on a certain shipment, and 
 repeated it for some time successfully. Suddenly his profits 
 stopped, and he found that a man in his office on the 
 magnificent pay of twelve shillings per mensem, had shipped 
 against him, and swamped the market. When he came to 
 
238 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 England, he accidentally saw in a wholesale dealer's book, 
 orders from his own banian for the very goods he had dealt 
 in for years. If advices from Europe are not favorable, 
 every banian gives the hint in the bazaar, and up country 
 goods are either held in store, some distance from the 
 capital, or if in Calcutta, none are allowed to be visible. If 
 rates of interest are low and goods unsaleable, the cash 
 balance against the merchant is kept at its highest. If 
 that unfortunate suddenly finds some means of employing a 
 large sum profitably, the banian is ahead of him again, and 
 as suddenly discovers that he has to settle accounts with 
 some up-country dealer. Finally, the grand result of the 
 plot is, that the whole trade of Calcutta is in the hands of 
 the natives, and if they could obtain orders direct from 
 English houses, there would not be a white merchant left. 
 Even this they have done, and are doing, and with a few 
 exceptions of men who have had only dealings with the 
 European population, (such as hotel-keepers, jewellers, 
 &c.) or others who have made some stupendously inde- 
 pendent speculations, as lately in cotton, we do not know 
 of one man who has come to England for the last twenty 
 years with a large fortune. One gentleman, who will be 
 recognised by Indians under his soubriquet of King David, 
 left Calcutta with some twelve lacs (£120,000), but more 
 than half of this was made in the China trade. 
 
 We have had some princely fortunes lately accumulated 
 by indigo-planters ; but for many reasons they are inde- 
 
REALITIES OF I^^DIAN LIEE. 239 
 
 peudent to a certain extent of native influence, although 
 they too have to submit to a tax of at least a quarter of 
 their profits. 
 
 If they take land, their agent stipulates for a certain bribe, 
 but as indigo cannot be eaten by the population, is only 
 used by native dyers to a limited extent, and is only saleable 
 in Calcutta for immediate transport to England, they come 
 oif better than the merchant. Another saving clause for 
 this class is that no native landholder will permit another 
 native to grow indigo on his lands, for fear of broken bound- 
 aries, or forged sales during occupancy, whereas he allows 
 the honester Englishman to do as he likes during his lease. 
 
 To return to the banian, if our feeble voice can give the 
 key-note to one prolonged shout of reprobation of his 
 rascally doings, we shall consider that a great object is 
 attained, and we would conjure the merchants of Calcutta, 
 if they would thrive, to get rid of them and their system. 
 If there are to be banians, let them "be as sworn brokers 
 are in England, who are prohibited from dealings in the 
 articles their principals export or import. 
 
 To descend from great things to small, we may remark that 
 from the Khansamah (or superintendent of the cuisine) who 
 gives the unfortunate griff goat mutton, and cooks his food 
 with tallow instead of butter, to the syce (or groom) who 
 sleeps in his master's horse's blanket, and steals half his gram 
 (a kind of lentil), there is one unbroken system of plunder, 
 and the knowing and wearied masters come off the best 
 
240 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 who allow one man to steal as much as he can safely do, 
 and make him their guarantee against the rest of the robber 
 horde. We could fill a book with amusing and instructive 
 tales about Indian domestics, but we must now return to 
 the consideration of the causes of the rebellion of 1857. 
 
 Before stating our own idea of the matter, we will 
 examine the theories of others. 
 
 First, then, as to the greased cartridge question. We 
 believe that the dread expressed by the natives in reference 
 to these was entirely simulated, and we can give instances 
 in which the same kind of stalking-horse was used to raise 
 the populace against the government. Two or three years 
 before the mutinies, when English salt was first imported 
 into Calcutta, the natives immediately gave out that it was 
 refined with bullock's blood, and, therefore, abominable. 
 Thousands of tons were, in consequence, thrown into the 
 Hooghly as no one would buy a pound of it. We see that 
 the clearances of that very same description of salt in 
 December, 1862, were 86,000 tons. Again, during the 
 mutinies, reports were spread through every bazaar that 
 bullocks' bones were mixed up with the government-made 
 salt in India, and the population for a time pretended to 
 believe this, but after the success of our arms the report 
 died away, and the consumption of the quasi-polluted salt 
 was never for a moment stopped. No Sepoy really believed 
 that the greased cartridges were intended to take away his 
 caste. Accidental pollution does not always involve its loss 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 241 
 
 to the Hindoo, and under certain circumstances the strict 
 observance of its rules is impossible, hence the declaration 
 to pilgrims that at places like Jugurnauth, or the different 
 bathing or sacred places on the Ganges, caste is not to be 
 considered. A wanton infringement of it is, of course, 
 never overlooked, and if greased cartridges had been served 
 out purposely, after protest, then the Sepoy might have 
 rebelled for that reason alone. But as this was not the case, 
 we say the cartridges had nothing to do with it. 
 
 The annexation of Oude is next on our list, and, doubt- 
 less, this lauded act of Lord Dalhousie's did precipitate the 
 rebellion, but it was not the chief cause. Our reason for 
 saying this is, that the general disaffection of the native army 
 must have been correctly ascertained before the grandees and 
 great proprietors of Oude would have run the risk of failure 
 and ruin, by bringing on a collision with our native troops, 
 who, even supposing that portion which was enlisted in 
 Oude had mutinied, could, led by our European forces, 
 have crushed the rebellion in the bud. But the rising was 
 general, not in Oude particularly ; and the principal focus 
 was Delhi not Lucknow. Hence we say that the annexa- 
 tion precipitated, but did not cause the rebellion. 
 
 Paucity of officers and lax discipline are the last causes 
 in our catalogue. The answer to these is that the natives 
 of Bengal and the north-west provinces from whence our 
 army was recruited, were (especially in the case of the 
 Hindoos) a sober, frugal, penurious race, and in these 
 
 16 
 
242 EASTWAEDS, OE 
 
 qualities materially differed from British, or, in fact, anj 
 European soldiery. They were recruited from the re- 
 spectable yeomen or well-to-do village classes. Kow, does 
 the reader see in these component elements of the native 
 army anything which would lead him to suppose that they 
 would ever rebel? "We think not. In themselves they 
 were the representatives of order ^ not rebellion. Paucity 
 of officers and lax discipline might have made them bad 
 soldiers, but not rebellious subjects. 
 
 Let us name some other causes which miffht make an 
 army murder its officers and attempt ^i^jBm its masters. 
 Eirst, arrears of pay ! Such a thing didnS^xist. Second, 
 ambition amongst some of the leading native officers ! As 
 a body, the Hindoos are highly conservative, and revere old 
 families, rank, <fec., and not one Sepoy in the whole rebellion 
 came out as a general leader, or, in fact, would for an 
 instant have been allowed to do so. The leadership was in- 
 stantly taken up by men of ancient family and high station, 
 for instance the king of Delhi and his sons, Nana Sahib, of 
 Cawnpore, the Nawaub of Eutteghur, Koowur Sing, &c. 
 
 Let us suppose patriotism as the cause of the rising. 
 Again we answer no. This feeling is crushed out of the 
 people by caste. No five men can be patriots together who 
 have to cook five separate dinners for fear of one polluting 
 the other. 
 
 We have now given every one a hearing, and will state 
 our own idea of the case. 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAT^^ LIFE. 243 
 
 The real cause of the mutinies was an intense and general 
 hatred among the native aristocracy, which includes every 
 one of high-caste, to the white man. This was caused by his 
 being the conqueror, by his (sometimes involuntarily so) 
 insulting air of superiority, by jealousy of his bravery, (not 
 of his physical powers, how^ever,) by his radical and levelling 
 method of treating the high-caste native on an equality with 
 the low, (this we have heard them grind their teeth at,) and 
 lastly by an indistinct dread that the time is approaching 
 when Christianity must spread over the land. The annex- 
 ation of Oud^nm^^xactly in the nick of time to consoli- 
 date these cor^ment parts. A native never bets without 
 a hedge, never does wrong without a previously prepared 
 excuse. They are a logical people ; they like to give a 
 reason ; they gave the cartridges. 
 
 They succeeded to admiration in concocting their hell- 
 broth, but its fumes were too potent for the cooks ; they 
 spilt it in administering it. Talking plainly, nothing pre- 
 vented the success of the rebellion, but the want of pluck 
 in its instruments. Intellect against intellect, the native 
 had the best of it. Courage against courage, he was no- 
 where. But if the hatred was universal, how is it that 
 some stood aloof, some even aided us ? The answ^er is that 
 the Bengalees were neutral because they are not a fighting 
 race, and had the blessing of a perpetual settlement of their 
 lands at a fabulously low rate. They were certainly neutral, 
 but that was all, and they felt a sullen satisfaction in 
 
244 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 looking on at tlie temporary degradation of their masters. 
 If the millionaires of Calcutta had come forward as they 
 ought to have done, there could never have been the panic 
 which did exist in that city. The lower orders generally 
 throughout India stood aloof, because the movement was 
 an aristocratic or high-caste one entirely, by which they 
 would not benefit, and hence we Avere supplied with coolies, 
 boatmen, cartmen, private servants, &c., without whom our 
 armies could not have moved one inch. If patriotism had 
 been the moving cause of the rebellion, these would have 
 gone with their betters ; but as we h&Y^jf^n, caste pre- 
 vented this. 
 
 Lastly, some natives befriended our poor naked runaways. 
 Yes, they did so. Human nature, although rather dis- 
 torted in the East by Paganism, a low standard of morals, 
 &c., is still human nature. Men's idiosyncracies differ, and 
 it is not astonishing that the moderate rebel should have 
 shown a few feelings of humanity in contradistinction to 
 the red-hot one who showed none. And now, having nearly 
 exhausted our arguments, we will return to our story. 
 
 Mrs. Templemore and Laura were soon comfortably 
 settled on board the steamer, which brought them pleasantly, 
 in about four days, to their destination, Nadanpore. On 
 the second day they passed the great cotton mart of Mirza- 
 pore, and enjoyed the best view obtainable of the ancient 
 Hindoo city of Benares, steaming slow^ly under the very 
 walls of its wondrous conglomeration of temples, palaces, 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 245 
 
 and ornamental bathing ghauts. The rest of the passage 
 passed without any very striking incidents occurring, and 
 on the fourth evening, as they made fast to the bank at 
 Nadanpore which was the nearest point on the river to 
 their future home, Mr. Templemore was ready to meet 
 them. 
 
 After a night's journey by palanquin, they arrived at 
 Neelapore, as day was breaking. They found their house 
 situated on the banks of a lake, which stretched the whole 
 length of the station, and was visible from the drawing- 
 room windows for a mile or two of its winding course. 
 Here and there a thick grove grew down to the water's 
 edge, while the boats of the native fishermen constantly 
 passing and repassing, gave life to the scene. On either 
 side of the mansion extended a tastefully laid out garden, 
 and a flight of steps from the drawing-room verandah led 
 down to the terraced ghaut, at which was lying a gaily 
 painted pleasure boat. Everything exceeded Mrs. Temple- 
 more' s expectations, and she soon ceased to regret the 
 beautiful home she had left on the banks of the Hooghly. 
 
 In the month of December Conrad Daymer was ap- 
 pointed to an assistant magistracy at Neelapore, and he and 
 Laura were once more together. It was the height of the 
 cold weather, and nature wore her brightest hues. 
 
 The usual monotony of life at a moffussil (country) 
 station was broken by visits from the neighbouring planters, 
 races, amateur theatricals, sailing or rowing on the lake, 
 
246 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 and lastly by spending some weeks in tents, it being a part 
 of each official's duty to make an annual tour through his 
 district. A sketch of this patriarchal mode of life may not 
 be uninteresting, and if we are successful in our picture, 
 our readers will agree with us in thinking that there is a 
 great charm in such luxurious gipseying. 
 
 Behold ! then. The usual morning fog has just melted 
 away. The sky is blue — a deep Italian blue. The tempe- 
 rature is that of a bright summer's day in England. To 
 the left of the encampment we are about to describe, winds 
 one of the rivers which, rising in the Himalayahs, runs 
 through the district, and yields its tribute to the great 
 Ganges. A short distance down the stream is a native 
 ferry, with its curiously picturesque passengers, grouped 
 here and there, crossing, or waiting to be taken across. 
 High humped bullocks seize the opportunity to take a 
 little rest, and mildly chew the- cud, lying down the while 
 beside the quaint-looking carts they have been drawing. 
 Gaily dressed horsemen on fiery little ponies impatiently 
 await the slow movements of the ferrymen. Painted and 
 jewelled native women sit huddled up in that primitive 
 conveyance, the nalkee (something like the palkee), com- 
 placently chewing the pungent pawn Jeaf, or inhaling a few 
 puffs from the cheering hookah. A couple of hideously got 
 up fakeers wander about taking toll from all who are 
 charitably inclined, some giving them a handful of rice, 
 others a pinch of salt or a few cowry shells. They are a 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 247 
 
 poor, frugal race, these Hindoos, and all the finery and 
 colouring that we see is managed for a few shillings. 
 Above the ferry, on the opposite side, is a heavily wooded 
 village, with its bustling bazaar, on the skirts of which a 
 Mussulman mosque shines out in all the glory of a new 
 coat of whitewash. On this side the river the view is 
 limited to the grove, in which the tents are pitched. It is 
 a fine one, perhaps a quarter of a mile long, and nearly as 
 broad, the leaves of the mango tree, of which it is com- 
 posed, being so thick that the sun can only pierce them 
 here and there with a ray of light. 
 
 What a busy scene meets the eye, as we enter its grateful 
 shade ! 
 
 These three or four holes, cut in the ground, in which are 
 bright charcoal fires^ protected from the wind by a few 
 mats, form the kitchen, from which none but an Indian cook 
 could conjure the marvellous dinner he does. Everything 
 appears nice and clean and those frizzling lamb chops give 
 one quite an appetite to look at them, while if we lift this 
 cover, we shall find the most delicious of omelets nestling 
 beneath it. Conveniently close is the servants' tent, in front 
 of which, as you see, the khansmah and khidmutgars are 
 robing themselves for breakfast. 
 
 A little further on, knee deep in fresh rice straw, are three 
 or four satin-skinned Arabs, and our two little friends, the 
 ghoonts, which have come all the way down from Mussooree. 
 They are picketted under the trees during the day, but yonder 
 
248 • EASTWAEDS, OK 
 
 is the stable tent to shelter them from the night winds and 
 dew. On the other side of the stables is the cutcherj or 
 office tent, guarded by a file of Sepoys. Complainants, de- 
 fendants, and witnesses are grouped about under the trees in 
 deep converse with the vakeels (pleaders) and mooktars (at- 
 tornies) preparatory to the opening of the court. 
 
 Now let us turn back again. Under the tree of the grove 
 is stretched a shamianah or awning of striped white and red 
 cloth. On the ground beneath this is spread first a layer ot 
 clean straw which is hidden by a drugget, and above all is a 
 bright Mirzapore carpet. In the centre a camp table is laid for 
 breakfast, round it are three or four easy chairs, and, lastly, — 
 most charming sight — are seated our two English ladies, dressed 
 in light and elegant morning robes, one of whom is just pouring 
 out a cup of fragrant tea, while the other is working and at 
 intervals watching the curious panorama before her. Behind 
 the shamianah is the reception tent, and again in the rear of 
 that are those for sleeping in. These last are surrounded by a" 
 wall of cloth (kanauts) eight feet high which hides them from 
 the public gaze. The grove is perfectly free from bushwood 
 or undergrowth of any kind, and is dry and clean throughout. 
 
 Mr. Templem^ore now walks in. He has been out for an 
 hour or two shooting and lays his trophies at Laura's feet 
 to be admired. There are a brace of black partridges of 
 beautiful plumage, a fat little grey quail and a small Indian 
 hare. The sportsman looks so rosy and so farmerified in 
 gaiters and velveteen coat that one can hardly believe he 
 
REALITIES or INDIAN LIFE. 249 
 
 is an old Indian and that in an hour or two he will be trans- 
 . formed into the solemn judge. He is followed by the dawk- 
 wallah or postman, who throws down a bundle of papers, 
 letters, and magazines, which are eagerly opened, especially 
 a little note from Coni'ad, and examined. 
 
 "Here's more of that chapatty business," said Mr. Tem- 
 plemore as he scanned the last Calcutta news, " I wonder 
 what it means, none of my amlah seem to understand it at 
 all, and yet they ought to know." " I see our friend 
 Desmond," he continued, "has got his majority, and his 
 regiment is ordered to Nadanpore. I should not be surprised 
 if he rides over some morning to see us. By the by, what 
 an assistance he would be in our theatricals." 
 
 Breakfast over, Mr. Templemore goes to office where he 
 will be engaged till the afternoon. The ladies write letters, 
 work, and gossip till the lengthened shadows warn them to 
 get ready for their evening ride. 
 
 Here are their horses, mincing, and tossing their heads 
 behind their smartly dressed grooms, who with silver-handled 
 chowry, or yaks tail, in hand bring up the pets to have their 
 little tid bits of sugar cane. They are called Butterfly and 
 Peacock, one a bright chestnut, the other a ■ very 
 purely-bred flea-bitten gray. Butterfly's characteristic is 
 that he has peculiarly light paces, and the gray holds up his 
 tail so much like a picture-horse, that hence his name. Mr. 
 Templemore rides a larger, heavier animal than either of tlie 
 others and it is as much as he can do to keep up with the 
 
250 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 ladies. They ride about exploKing here and there, now- 
 looking at a ruin, now admiring some curious freak of nature, 
 such as a peepul tree growing round an aged palm, which it 
 has encased in its roots, and will gradually cover over alto- 
 gether. The palm will not die, however, for many a day, and 
 will year after year wave its feathery frond from out its de- 
 stroyer's bosom. Now 'tis a fisherman whom they stop to 
 watch, he is throwing the peculiar kewla net of Bengal, un- 
 known in Europe. See, he gathers up a portion in his hand, it 
 looks a mere entangled mass. Whisk ! it flies round his head, 
 and lands on the water a fair un wrinkled circle of nine feet in 
 diameter. It is leaded round the edge, and held by a string 
 attached to the centre. Pull this, the weights bring the 
 edges together and lo ! a dozen sparkling chulwas and pubtas* 
 are added to the basket swung at his back. 
 
 ''Who are these ?" said Laura to her uncle, as they passed 
 a straggling cavalcade of natives whom even she could see 
 were of a different race to the inhabitants of the district they 
 were in. 
 
 He had barely time to answer her question by saying they 
 were gipsies, (nutts, in Hindustanee) when one of the women, 
 a tall, bright-eyed, bold-looking girl ran in front of his horse 
 and, at the risk of being ridden over, held up her baby close 
 to its head. Half whiningly, half impudently, she said, in 
 strange Hindustanee, " for the sake of the nunkee (little one) 
 make your poor slave a present." 
 
 * These are two of the commonest species of fish in Bengal. 
 
EEALITIES OF I:N"DIAN LIFE. 251 
 
 He was annoyed at her impertinent manner and told her 
 to be off for a shameless one. The girl tripped back to 
 her companions screaming with laughter and jokingly alluded 
 to her having bantered the white man. 
 
 A wild,'*shaggy-bearded, desperate-looking set of ruffians 
 were the men. Their long locks hung down to their waists, 
 or were tied up in huge shapeless masses, bleached into 
 dirty red by exposure to the weather. They reminded one 
 of wolves, they were so gaunt, so sulkily-fierce looking. 
 You could tell their race at a glance. Nothing can hide 
 the true gipsy eye. Once seen in the nutt women of 
 India it can never be forgotten. ' There is a size, a wild 
 glitter in that dark orb, which is absolutely fascinating. 
 This party, as one of the grooms ascertained, had journeyed 
 all the w"ay from the burning plains of Scinde. 
 
 "They call themselves Khuttuks by race, but they are a 
 bad set or I'm mistaken," said the man, shaking his liead. 
 
 They had numerous donkeys and buffaloes on which they 
 carried' til eir tents made of the sirkee reed sewn together, 
 with their charpoys or beds and other household gear. 
 
 Mr. Templemore was astonished to see, also, that they had 
 a number of English dogs with them of all kinds, from the 
 greyhound to the little spaniel, and he wondered much 
 where they could have possessed themselves of these. " They 
 liave stolen them, I suspect," he said to his wife, "from the 
 different cantonments they have passed through, and I must 
 tell the police to keep an eye on them, especiall}'- as we are in 
 
252 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 curious times." *' I don't like their looks at all," he mut- 
 tered, as they rode on. And now the evening fog gently 
 creeps over village and grove, mingling with the smoke of 
 the wood fires just now beginning to be lighted to cook the 
 much-loved evening meal, and presses it down to the ground 
 nearly choking our party as they ride through some native 
 hamlet or bazaar. 
 
 The snow white heron, tired with his silent, monotonous 
 day's work, flies lazily home, uttering discordant greetings to 
 his brethren, whom he hastens to join in yonder tree. The 
 giant cricket suddenly commences his ear-piercing perfor- 
 mance, and almost prevents you hearing what your companion 
 is saying, his whir-r-r-r is so distressingly loud. Every- 
 thing cries " Homeward !" The lowing herds come strag- 
 gling down the lanes, crowding and struggling as they press 
 through some narrow pass, while the thumps showered by 
 the herd-boys, on their drum-like sides resound through 
 the still evening air. Darkness comes on very suddenly in 
 India, our friends must therefore haste or daylight will be gone. 
 
 Now Butterfly, now Peacock, pull your fair burdens' arms 
 nearly off", as you rush home to your suppers, but no jostling, 
 and no pretending to bite one another, no ! let it be a fair 
 race, and we will back the Peacock to take his laughing and 
 flushed rider first to the edge of the grove. Grove did we 
 say ? that word does not describe it. It is a scene at the 
 opera ; there are the watchfires and the robbers, and gloomy 
 caves, and bright bits and vistas in the trees, ending in black 
 
REALITIES OE II^DIAN LIEE. 253 
 
 darkness. There are the captives bound and awaiting their 
 fate (the court prisoners), and here is the brigand chief's tent. 
 Well, it is a very comfortable one and his people seem to 
 know how to spread a dinner table remarkably well. So 
 covers off, if you please, khansamah, and the bandit and his 
 women will dine. 
 
 At day-break next morning, as Mr. Templemore was 
 sipping his early cup of coffee under the shamianah (awning), 
 and most of the carnp followers were still asleep, he was star- 
 tled by seeing a woman with dishevelled hair and blood- 
 stained garments rush through the trees, and throw herself 
 frantically at his feet. 
 
 " What in the name of Heaven is the matter ?" he said, 
 leaning over, and trying to raise her, but she only grovelled 
 the more on the ground, wildly repeating, " Ai ullah, ai ma ; 
 oh ullah, oh mother !" 
 
 He thought she must bemad, and made two of his orderlies 
 raise her up, when to his further astonishment, he recognised 
 the gipsy girl of the previous evening. 
 
 The men gradually soothed her, and in broken, gasping 
 sentences, she told her tale. 
 
 " I am the nutteen (the gipsy girl) your lordship knows. 
 They married me to the Sirdar (leader) of our gang ; you 
 may have noticed him — the tall gray-haired man. Of all the 
 ruffians he is the worst. He used to beat me. I bore all 
 for my child's sake — you saw it, a little thing, soft as a ball 
 of cotton." 
 
254 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 Here she tried to throw herself down again, but was for- 
 cibly held up by the men, who sprinkled water over her face, 
 and begged her to continue her story, 
 
 "I will," she gasped. "Well, last night, in one of his 
 drunken fits, he took up his hatchet because I had burnt his 
 rice, and (here her voice became almost inaudible from 
 emotion) he killed the nunkee (the little one). I had blood 
 for blood," she whispered. " I stabbed him — once — twice, 
 but he did not die. They seized and tied me down with 
 cords. I bit them through, and flew to your lordship's feet 
 for justice. Send out your police ; the whole band are thugs. 
 Break open the legs of their charpoys (camp beds) ; they are 
 hollow, filled with jewels and money, robbed from road-side 
 traveller or strangled villager. Be quick ! The men will 
 scatter when they find me gone. Oh, my child ! my child !" 
 Mrs. Templemore and Laura, hearing the screams and 
 moans of the wretched woman, hastily put on dressing-gowns 
 and came out to ascertain the cause, and after learning the 
 story from her husband, the former made the girl over to 
 her woman-servants to be watched and taken care of. 
 
 Mr. Templemore roused the camp, and sending messengers 
 for aid to the nearest police-station, started a party in pursuit 
 of the gipsies. 
 
 As the woman had predicted, not a man was found in 
 their tents. The women, much to their pretended surprise, 
 were marched off to the police station, with all their goods 
 and chattels, and on their beds being examined, the legs were 
 
EEALITIES or INDIAN LIFE. 255 
 
 found to be filled with all kinds of valuables, among which 
 were jewelled nose-rings, bracelets, and in one, some hundred 
 counterfeit rupees, each coin wrapped up in cotton, to prevent 
 it jingling while being carried along. 
 
 After a short pursuit, the party sent by Mr. Templemore 
 came upon the leader, who, weak from the wounds he had 
 received from his wdfe, could not keep up with his comrades, 
 and had been deserted by them. He was secured, and from 
 inquiries made of the villagers round about, it was found that 
 the band had made for some heavy grass cover, which extended 
 along the banks of the river. A few of them were caught, 
 after four days' search, in a wretched plight from want of 
 food, and some managed to escape into the territory of Jung 
 Buhadur, of Nepal, where they were safe. 
 
 In due course of time those who had been captured were 
 tried. The leader was condemned to death for the murder 
 of his child, and one of the gang having turned Queen's 
 evidence, the others were all transported for life. 
 
 The unfortunate gipsy girl sank into a state of low melan- 
 choly, and was looked on as quite harmless. One day, how- 
 ever, her keepers missed her, and not for a week did they 
 receive any tidings of her fate. Her body was at last washed 
 ashore some miles below the station she had been removed 
 to, and it was conjectured that in a fit of despair she had 
 thrown herself into the stream. 
 
256 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 THE DUEL. — POOR STRUGGLES. THE AFFAIR AT ARRAH. 
 
 As Christmas drew near those residents of Neelapore 
 who had been living in tents, returned to the station to 
 feast and be as merry, in as English a manner as circum- 
 stances and climate would allow. Ladies read up receipts 
 for mince pies and plum pudding, while the gentlemen 
 (much to the horror of the Hindus) paid enthusiastic visits 
 to the fattening oxen, joints of which were to crown the 
 festive board. 
 
 The weather was serenely bright as it generally is at this 
 season, and no very heavy clouds, up to this period, having 
 obscured the political horizon, men saw no reason why they 
 should not enjoy themselves as much as formerly. Baces, 
 theatricals, cricket, dancing and dinner parties, with rowing 
 and sailing matches on the lake, all combined to make the 
 time pass pleasantly. Everybody ran something at the 
 races and the excitement was, therefore, as general as it was 
 great. This feeling, however, soon cooled down, when the 
 owners discovered that untrained horses cannot gallop 
 
REALITIES or INDIAN LIFE. 257 
 
 without suffering for it, and the number of thick legs and stiff 
 shoulders in the different stables became quite alarming. 
 
 Among those who had been invited to join in the gaieties, 
 and were generally the leaders in the sports and amusements, 
 were Major Desmond and a party of officers from Nadan- 
 pore. Desmond was looking more haggard and older. The 
 hue of health which he had brought with him from 
 England, had given place to a pallor which made his dark 
 eyes more expressive by the contrast, and it was evident 
 that climate and dissipation were telling upon him fiist. 
 
 He entered into all the amusements with an apparent 
 abandonment and gaiety, but Laura noticed once or twice 
 that he would suddenly fall into a reverie, with his eyes 
 fixed on vacancy, though the moment before he had been as 
 loud in his merriment as the rest. He had, of course, 
 heard thavt Laura was engaged, but had not in any way 
 alluded to it, although his conduct made it evident that his 
 smouldering jealousy only awaited an occasion to burst 
 into a flame. Once or twice he nearly provoked a quarrel 
 with Conrad, refusing to row next him in one of the pleasure 
 boats, and at another time contemptuously throwing a 
 cricket ball at his feet, instead of tossing it to him courte- 
 ously. Conrad was not one to put up with the slightest 
 insult, but the instances we have mentioned were just those 
 kind of impertinences which were hardly worthy of serious 
 notice. He had, however, a presentiment that something 
 more marked would oblige him to call Desmond to account, 
 
 17 
 
258 
 
 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 especially as it was seen by all that the latter often drank 
 to an extent which rendered him incapable of weighing his 
 actions. 
 
 On the night of the last ball at the station, as Conrad 
 was walking with Laura after one of the dances, she drew 
 him gently into the verandah and said — 
 
 '* Do you know, dearest, that I am very much alarmed at 
 the way Major Desmond acts towards you, and for my sake 
 I hope, now that he is going away, you will not allow your- 
 self to be drawn into a quarrel. He seems to be in such a 
 fierce reckless mood, that I believe him capable of any 
 extravagance, and this evening he has been drinking a great 
 deal too much champagne." 
 
 " Yes," replied Conrad, " the man is half mad with drink 
 and jealousy, and were it not that I abhor a scene, I would 
 bring him up before he left the room, but two or three of 
 my best friends whom I have spoken to, advise me to l^eep 
 out of his way. Had we been living at the same station I 
 am afraid nothing earthly could have prevented some open 
 disagreement," 
 
 Laura again reiterated her request, and they re-entered 
 the ball room, both looking sad and lost in thought. At 
 the conclusion of the evening Desmond came up to her and 
 stood for a few moments at her side without speaking ; then 
 suddenly bending down, he whispered " I have to congratu- 
 late you, I believe, Miss Templemore, on your engagement 
 to Mr. Daymer." He paused as if waiting for a reply. 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 259 
 
 Laura stammered out sometliiug unintelligible, and felt as 
 if she must faint. Her face became pale, then flushed, and 
 the room seemed to swim round. Still he waited, and 
 again bending over her, muttered, may my curse follow him 
 to Ms dying day ; and without another word abruptly left 
 the room. 
 
 Laura feared to tell any one then of what had happened, 
 and was glad to see Conrad approaching to escort her to the 
 carriage and to know that he had been able to avoid a 
 collision with his infuriated rival. " Gro home," she whis- 
 pered, " dear Conrad, if you love me, go home." 
 
 Unfortunately he had engaged to play a match of billiards 
 after the ball, which broke up early, he therefore jumped 
 into his buggy and drove to the room, which was a detached 
 building at the other end of the station. On entering he 
 put do^Ti his name on the slate, and his friend being already 
 there, they only waited till they could claim the table. 
 
 Just as the game in progress was finished Desmond and 
 some of the officers sauntered in, and the former scowling 
 on Conrad, went up to the slate, and not in the clearest 
 accents told the marker he should play next. 
 
 The man replied " the table is engaged by Mr. Daymer, 
 sir." 
 
 " Oh ! Mr. Daymer is always first, is he ? He must 
 wait this time. Come along Eussel, get your cue and we'll 
 begin." 
 
 There was, of course, a murmur through the room, and 
 
260 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 several of the men were about to interfere, when Conrad saved 
 them the trouble by walking up to the table and, placing 
 his cue upon it, requested Desmond, in as quiet a tone as 
 he could command, to allow him to begin his game. The 
 latter, who was in the quarrelsome stage of intoxication, 
 only answered by placing Ms cue across Conrad's. 
 
 This was more than any man of spirit could endure, and 
 he dashed his hand up so violently that one of the sticks 
 struck Desmond smartly over the forehead. 
 
 As quick as lightning the latter brought his cue down 
 on Conrad's head, who, however, saved himself by warding 
 off the blow, and the bystanders at once separated the 
 combatants. Desmond was taken into another room foam- 
 ing with passion and declaring that he would have his 
 rival's life. " He brought it on himself, and I'll shoot him 
 if I can." 
 
 There was a gloomy silence in the billiard room, and 
 every one foreboded mischief. At last Eussel, whom we 
 have mentioned, walked into the room, and, waiting till 
 Conrad had finished his game, beckoned him aside and spoke 
 a few words. They were to the effect that Desmond de- 
 manded instant satisfaction, that it was a bright moonlight 
 night, and that he was waiting near the big mango tree 
 by the lake. Conrad replied " he shall not have long to wait," 
 and, asking his friend to accompany him, they walked away 
 to the appointed spot. One sickening thought of Laura 
 and of those dear to him in England crossed his mind ; but 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 261 
 
 the die was cast ; he could not now retreat. He, however, 
 made up his mind what course he should pursue and briefly 
 mentioned his intention to his friend, who quite approved 
 of it. 
 
 After the seconds had conversed a little, Conrad's came 
 up to him and said, " Desmond insisted on being put up at 
 twelve paces, but I have arranged it is to be fifteen. He 
 seems almost insane, and if he misses the first shot I shall 
 take care he does not have a second." 
 
 They were placed opposite one another, the word was 
 given, but the report of one pistol only sounded through 
 the night air. It was Desmond's, whose ball had pierced 
 Conrad's side. He staggered as he felt the shock, but 
 mustering up all his courage, advanced a pace or two and 
 said — 
 
 "You have had your satisfaction I presume. Major 
 Desmond," but to show my utter contempt of such worth- 
 lessness as yours, I take mine difierently — thus ;" and firing 
 his pistol in the air, sank into his second's arms. The 
 medical man present at once examined his wound, and 
 found that, although bleeding profusely, it was only 
 superficial, the ball having glided over the ribs. After 
 bandaging it up, he was lifted into his buggy and driven 
 home. 
 
 Desmond seemed unsatisfied at the result of the meeting, 
 and as he left the ground muttered something about future 
 revenge. 
 
262 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 At day-break lie took his departure from Neelapore, with 
 hatred and jealousy still gnawing at his heart, mingled with 
 the certain knowledge that he had estranged himself from 
 the society of the Templemores for ever. 
 
 Mr. Templemore, who had been awakened by the station 
 doctor, accompanied that gentleman to Conrad's bed-side, 
 and was at first much alarmed at his appearance, but after 
 being assured by both medical men, that, humanly speaking, 
 a fortnight would see him convalescent, and in compliance 
 with Conrad's entreaties, he hurried home to relieve the 
 anxiety of his wife and Laura, who were awaiting his arrival 
 in a state of great agitation, not knowing exactly what had 
 happened. The latter had dropped some hints to her aunt 
 as to Desmond's conduct during the ball, and they were 
 therefore not so much surprised as they might otherwise 
 have been at Mr. Templemore' s account of the affair, 
 and both felt relieved and thankful that matters were no 
 worse. 
 
 In a few days, when all symptoms of fever had passed 
 away, the two ladies were constant in their visits to Conrad's 
 bungalow, and Laura was now enabled to return some of 
 the fond care and attention which she had received from 
 her lover in Calcutta. The cruel attempt which had been 
 made to sever them only increased their devotion, and, 
 secure in each other's affections, they looked forward to the 
 future with the hopeful feelings of youth, and the conscious- 
 ness of the purest and most disinterested love. 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 268 
 
 In a month's time Conrad was again at his official post, 
 and was nearly as strong as ever. He and the other 
 residents of the station now began to have their sus- 
 picions that the flying rumours of the past three months 
 had something more in them than the every-day exagge- 
 rations so loved by the gossiping natives. An officer at 
 Barrackpore (near Calcutta) had been cut down by one 
 of his men, who had been aided and abetted by his 
 brethren in doing so. Luckily the native regiments 
 there and at Berhampore (60 miles ofl") were imme- 
 diately disarmed. If these men could have stuck to their 
 original role, which was a simulation of loyalty till all 
 the European troops were ordered away from Calcutta, 
 that city would have been the scene of a terrible conflict. 
 The bravado, however, of one drunken scoundrel, spoilt 
 the plot. 
 
 Hardly had this news grown stale when rumours came 
 down of rebellion at Meerut, then at Lucknow, and as the 
 sun became more and more unbearable to the white man, so 
 each station rose. 
 
 We will not discuss the old question of incapacity 
 here or infatuation there ; somehow or other we blundered 
 through the ordeal, and doubtless by the fiat of Providence, 
 working through the instrumentality of the British army, 
 the empire was saved. But what if the Sikhs had joined 
 the mutineers ? or the Chinese troops had not (by chance) 
 been available ? or the lower orders of India had struck 
 
264 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 work ? Without a question the country would have been 
 lost to England. 
 
 One morning as Mr. Templemore and his family were 
 sitting at breakfast, the post came in, and after reading, or 
 rather glancing at, the numerous items of news, all contain- 
 ing more or less gloomy tidings, he suddenly started, and 
 said to his wife, " What do you t"hink, my dear, there has 
 been a terrible esclandre at Nadanpore, and Major Des- 
 mond is the hero of it." 
 
 Both Mrs. Templemore and Laura eagerly asked what it 
 was. 
 
 " 1 will read you an extract," he replied : " ' There has been 
 a terrible exposure here. A letter has been received by the 
 Colonel of Desmond's regiment, written by a person in 
 England, who claims to be the wife of the latter. [Here 
 both ladies uttered an exclamation.] She says that having 
 heard a report that he was about to marry the niece of 
 some civilian in India, she could not allow an innocent 
 girl to be sacrificed, when the disclosure of her existence 
 would prevent such a crime. That from her husband's 
 cruel conduct and dissipation of her fortune by gambling, 
 she had, some ten years before, taken refuge in flight, sup- 
 porting herself by different methods, but latterly by talking 
 the situation of nursery governess with a Eussian family in 
 Paris. That with the connivance and assistance of her 
 friends she had eluded all pursuit, and had even advertised 
 her death in the papers, and that so far he was blameless. 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN^ LIFE. 265 
 
 She concluded by saying that every necessary proof of her 
 assertions was ready, but that Major Desmond would hardly 
 dare to deny the truth of her story. The Colonel immedi- 
 ately showed Desmond the letter, and was shocked to find 
 that he could give no denial to the facts, though he solemnly 
 asserted that he thouglit his wife was dead. As the regiment 
 was ordered on active service, Desmond could not leave it, 
 but it was supposed he would sell out at the earliest 
 opportunity.' " 
 
 " What a terrible rascal the fellow seems to be," said Mr. 
 Templemore. " I suspect, my dear," addressing his wife, 
 "that you will not again in a hurry be fascinated by a 
 polished exterior only, and you may thank your stars, that 
 the civilian's niece was not made the victim of such a 
 villain." Mrs. Templemore seemed to feel her husband's 
 remark acutely, and with tearful eyes, holding out her hand 
 to Laura, said, " You have forgiven me long ago, Laura, 
 have you not?" "Yes," said the latter, kissing her 
 tenderly, " I have, and if this sad experience should 
 strengthen your regard for me, I shall almost remember 
 the subject with pleasure instead of with terror and 
 disgust." 
 
 After opening some other letters, Mr. Templemore looked 
 up with a curious expression on his face, and exclaimed, 
 " Here is some extraordinary news from Khosamudpore. 
 From what my friend Douglas writes, poor Montmorency 
 ►Struggles must have been badly used. He says, * we were 
 
266 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 petrified last night by the apparition of the Commissioner 
 of Khosamudpore riding into our compound, dressed very 
 badly as a native, on a terribly thin and broken down pony. 
 It seems that after the native troops at the station mutinied, 
 he was by some accident prevented joining the other 
 fugitives, and was laid hold of by his amlah (native officials) 
 to whom he had been so kind, and made to suffer great 
 indignities. They actually bound liis hands, and sat in 
 judgment over him in his own court. They addressed him 
 as the motha soor, (fat pig), as the churbey dar (the fat 
 one) and wished to know when he thought they would 
 become Christians. Some of the Mahomedans proposed to 
 make him join their sect, while others suggested hanging. 
 At last they abandoned these ideas, and in place of them 
 adopted what they doubtless thought a good joke. They 
 made poor old Struggles put on a Khidmutgar's drawers 
 and skull cap, shaved off one of his whiskers, and giving 
 him an old greasy sheet to throw over his body, mounted 
 him on the most wretched tatoo they could find in the 
 place, and pelted him with clods, till he made it gallop. 
 Poor man, he was not able to get out of bed for two days 
 after he reached this, he was so stiff and sore. Tou 
 remember Struggles always loved the natives so much. 
 Well, he does love them now. He is an altered man. He 
 has got hold of a tremendous cavalry sabre, which he is 
 constantly sharpening, and swears that he will have his 
 revenge. The first party of troops that goes to Khosamud- 
 
EEALTTIES OP IXDIA>" LIFE. 267 
 
 poor will Lave liim Avith tliem, and if he can only catch his 
 sheristadar (head native assistant), I firmly believe he will 
 eat him or a portion of him at least.' " 
 
 "A nice state of things, is it not?" continued Mr. 
 Templemore. " The world seems to be turning upside 
 down altogether, when these cringing smooth-tongued, 
 sententious natives can mix up jocularity with their 
 cruelty. I have long had my suspicions that we did not 
 hnow them thoroughly, and it appears I was right." 
 
 After a pause he again addressed his wife, this time with 
 a grave aspect, while the care-lines in his face seemed to 
 deepen as he spoke — " There is worse and worse news from 
 all the up-country stations above Benares, where there has 
 been a fearful conflict, and the next place to enter the 
 flames will, I am afraid, be Allahabad. 
 
 Mr. Templemore leant his head on his hands, and remained 
 buried in thought, while the ladies were struck dumb by 
 the evil tidings they had heard, and, ashy pale, sat motion- 
 less in mute despair. 
 
 Who shall describe the feelings of the dwellers in Bengal 
 during that dark period of trial ? They felt that they were 
 such a handful among the myriads of natives, who had shown 
 so little mercy to those who had fallen into their power. The 
 horizon looked black indeed. Men's hearts sank at the con- 
 templation of the awful odds arrayed against them, and for 
 a time were chilled by hopeless despair. Then would come 
 that glorious inspiration, which is the birth-right of each 
 
268 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 true-born Englishman, that feeling which saved India, and 
 has led them on to heroic deeds from their remotest history, 
 which the degraded Asiatic has not in his servile breast, and 
 which, in the hour of his direst need, cries to each free-born 
 man, Do, and fear not to die ! 
 
 '' Poor Hampton," sobbed Laura, ''I hope his regiment will 
 stand fast ; his last letter was full of hope, was it not, uncle ?" 
 
 He shook his head, and said, " If they secure the fort, 
 there is a chance of things going right, but they have only 
 some seventy old invalid Europeans, and the handful of troops 
 with Neil may not reach in time." 
 
 This was the brave Major Neil, of the Madras Fusiliers, 
 who was killed at Lucknow after the most brilliant services. 
 He and he alone saved lower Bengal from at least temporary 
 conquest. 
 
 To give a detailed account of the mutinies is not our 
 object. We will, therefore, only relate those circumstances 
 which particularly influenced the welfare of the friends 
 whom we have introduced to our readers. 
 
 When Mr. Templemore and the other residents of Neela- 
 pore found matters becoming daily more threatening, they 
 determined to send off their families to take shelter in the 
 nearest military station, which was Nadanpore, or to Calcutta, 
 but breaking up their establishments would appear such an 
 equivocal, or rather unequivocal, act of timidity, that it was 
 put off to the last moment. The officials, too, of Neelapore, 
 were placed in a doubly difficult position from having a very 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 269 
 
 large amount of treasure in hand, which they were afraid to 
 send away, afraid to keep, and which they dared not abandon 
 till the last extremity. The troops at the station consisted 
 of a jail-guard of some two hundred men, a perfect rabble, 
 only formidable to their masters, and a troop of irregular 
 cavalry, which had been sent by the commanding officer of 
 the nearest military station as an extra protection, but which 
 only proved an extra curse. 
 
 Before the end of another week the news became so 
 alarming that the day was fixed for the ladies' departure. 
 On that very morning, however, the distressing tidings came 
 in that there had been a terrible disaster at Nadanpore, and 
 that the roads were now impassable, being infested by bands 
 of insurgents, who watched for any stray Europeans like 
 hungry hawks. When Mr. Templemore communicated these 
 tidings to his wife and Laura, they clung round him, and 
 begged him not to distress himself on their account, as thev 
 were prepared to share his fortune, whatever that might be, and 
 he had at least the satisfaction of knowing that they were 
 resigned to their fates. Conrad, who had urged their de- 
 parture long before, now did his best to solace them by various 
 arguments, all tending to show that as Government assured 
 every one that the rebellion was only a military emeute, it 
 must speedily be put a stop to on the arrival of reinforce- 
 ments. 
 
 The actual inhabitants of the district round Neelapore 
 were still perfectly quiet, and no one believed that matters 
 
270 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 would proceed to extremities. All eyes were anxiously turned 
 towards Nadanpore- as the key to their position, and details 
 of the catastrophe which had occurred there were eagerly 
 looked for, but the irregularity of the post, consequent on the 
 blockade of the roads, prevented the news from reaching for 
 some days. At last one messenger forced his way through 
 and the worst was known. The three native regiments at 
 Nadanpore had mutinied, and by the imbecihty of the 
 General commanding had been allowed to slip away, when 
 they might have been attacked and at least prevented doing 
 further mischief. Instead of this they marched in a body to 
 a civil station some twenty-four miles distant, and laid siege 
 to the handful of civihans and others who had fortified, and 
 heroically defended, the post. When it was found that they 
 must be massacred unless assistance were sent, an expedition 
 was organised and despatched for their relief, which resulted 
 in the loss of nearly one-third of the European force sta- 
 tioned at Nadanpore. This was the fruits of the most woeful 
 mismanagement, and as a specimen of how the bravest troops 
 may be sacrificed is worthy of record. The officer sent in 
 command was notoriously unfit for the task, and it was said 
 of him, as the detachment moved out of their quarters, " He 
 was never anything but too late ; this time the odds are that 
 he is too soon. " This was verified to the letter, and retri- 
 bution followed swiftly on his unwarrantable neglect of the 
 most ordinary precautions to prevent a surprise. 
 
 The small force of some three hundred and eighty Europeans 
 
REALITIES OE IXDIAN LIEE. 271 
 
 and fifty Sikhs, witli ten or fifteen volunteers, started, full of 
 hope, in one of the river steamers, which conveyed them to 
 within twelve miles of their destination. Before, however, 
 they had been many hours in the crowded vessel, they were 
 completely overpowered by the heat, and, half dead with ex- 
 haustion, began their long journey in the afternoon. They 
 had no proper meal the whole of that day, and at one of the 
 halts were so completely exhausted that they fell asleep as 
 they sat, and begged to be allowed to take a short rest. No ! 
 they were doomed. On their arrival at a thick grove, half a 
 mile from the station they were marching on, the advanced 
 guard of hardy Sikhs passed through, followed by the half 
 asleep, staggering Europeans. Suddenly they were aroused 
 by the deafening report of three vollies from the muskets of 
 at least fifteen hundred men. They were dead beat, trapped, 
 and in the confusion each m.an shifted for himself. The 
 Captain in command was one of the first who fell. Those 
 who escaped sheltered themselves for the remainder of the 
 night behind the bank of a tank, but at last had to retreat, 
 their relentless pursuers being afraid to close with their worn- 
 out enemy, but taking advantage of every ridge and mound 
 to deliver their shots. 
 
 Here the brave Mangles won his Victoria Cross, carrying a 
 wounded comrade three miles on his back. Here also the 
 gallant McDonell gained the same decoration for his gene- 
 rally heroic conduct, but especially for clearing the rudder of 
 the boat (amidst a storm of shot) which conveyed the 
 
272 
 
 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 fugitives a^'oss a stream, lying between them and the 
 steamer. 
 
 Out of tlie little band only one hundred returned unhurt, 
 the rest were all killed or wounded, and the reception of the 
 party on their return by the wives and families of the poor men, 
 will not soon be forgotten hj those who witnessed their frantic 
 gestures and heard their heart-rending screams, when they 
 were told of the terrible massacre.* One body of Irishwomen 
 went off howling to the General's quarters, and if he had not 
 hidden himself (as it is reported) would have taken summary 
 vengeance on him there and then. Thus ended this calami- 
 tous affair. The besieged station was ultimately succoured, 
 in a few days, by a small force of two hundred men, properly 
 led, thus showing what might have been done by theNadan- 
 pore troops. 
 
 Let us now see how it fared with Hampton Templemore 
 in these dreadful times. His regiment had been so virtuously 
 indignant at the mere suspicion of disloyalty that the Colonel 
 was prepared to defend them from all traducers and wrote to 
 that effect to the Calcutta newspapers. The officers, too, 
 were flattered, wept over and cajoled by the men to such an 
 extent that any native would at once have suspected them. 
 Not so, however, the poor confiding Englishman. To the 
 last they trusted to the soldiers' honour, a sentiment which 
 they forgot does not exist in the Asiatic breast. 
 
 * This party of only about 200 men was led by Major Vincent 
 Eyre. 
 
KEALITTES OF INDIAN LIFE. 273 
 
 One evening, after the excitement of the day was over and 
 everything apparently quiet, the officers met in the mess 
 room. The party was unusually large for a native regiment, 
 being augmented by a number of unposted ensigns. 
 
 The dinner was served as usual, and though there is little 
 doubt that the mess servants knew what was coming not one 
 scoundrel gave a hint. 
 
 Dinner half over, the alarm sounded, and as every one 
 started from his seat and rushed to the doors, they were 
 met by volley after volley, fired by their own men. 
 
 Fifteen of these victims of treachery were shot down, 
 and the survivors scattered and fled. 
 
 Hampton was wounded slightly in the leg and more 
 severely in the arm, but with a few others, among whom was 
 his chum, rushed back into the mess room and escaped by a 
 side entrance. Darkness favoured them and they made for 
 the river, into which, maddened by despair, they dashed, and 
 after fearful exertions managed to reach the shore near the 
 fort, to the gates of which they had hardly strength to crawl. 
 
 Thus far they were safe, but they had many trials to 
 encounter before the end of that troublous time. 
 
 The dastardly mob of sepoys joined the rabble of the town 
 in murdering every European they met or could ferret out, 
 and by next day the work of slaughter was finished. The 
 little garrison of the fort had not only to contend against semi- 
 starvation and disease in its most appalling forms, but they 
 had to watch the native troops quartered with them, consisting 
 
 18 
 
274 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 of four hundred Sikhs and a company of the very regiment 
 which had mutinied. These last had possession of one of the 
 gates, and the wonder is that they did not at once betray their 
 post. They were, however, disarmed, and turned out, the 
 Sikhs were persuaded to encamp outside under the pretence 
 of making more room for the fugitive women within the ram- 
 parts, and after they left the defenders breathed more freely. 
 The weather was fearfully hot, and deaths by sunstroke 
 were frequent. Cholera too, broke out and half the fighting 
 men were carried off by it, as well as numbers of women and 
 children. 
 
 After undergoing the most trying privations, the fort was 
 relieved by Major Neil at the head of a handful of the Madras 
 Fusiliers, with whom he had pushed on from Benares. After 
 some days further reinforcements arrived and the garrison 
 was able to march out and take vengeance on the cowardly 
 foe who had gathered round them by thousands. 
 
 Youth and a good constitution aided Hampton in his re- 
 covery from his wounds. In a month or so he, with the 
 remnant of the officers whose regiment had mutinied, were 
 enabled to join Neil and Havelock's column, and share in all 
 the glories of the campaign which ended in the relief of 
 Lucknow. 
 
KEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 275 
 
 CHAPTER XIY. 
 
 THE SIEGE — THE TIMELY DELIYEEANCE — FINALE. 
 
 When tlie chances of Neelapore being attacked became 
 daily greater, the residents took shelter in the strongest 
 built house in the station, and fortified it to the best of 
 their ability. All the trees for a hundred yards round 
 were cut down, provisions were laid in, and, in humble 
 submission to the will of the Almighty, the little band 
 awaited the result. 
 
 The planters of the district had been warned to combine 
 for mutual protection : this they did at one or two of the 
 most defensible points ; and about twenty joined the party 
 at Neelapore. 
 
 It was a pitiable sight to see them come in, young and 
 old, in crowded conveyances ; for when the rains are delayed 
 till late in June, the heat is terrible beyond conception, 
 and travelling by day is never in ordinary times attempted. 
 
 Some of the men were mad enough to drive with the 
 hoods of their buggies down, or in open dogcarts ; and on 
 their arrival at their destination, found their faces raw and 
 
276 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 blistered, as if by actual contact with fire ; but the ex- 
 citement was so great, the wish to place their families in 
 security so absorbing, that the deadly effect of the sun was 
 nearly forgotten. 
 
 One buggy load was such a mixture of tragedy and 
 comedy that we are tempted to describe it. 
 
 Eancy, then, a white horse, which had been bathed in 
 sweat, and then gradually covered over with a coating of 
 dust. On slackening its paces, this had dried into large 
 dirty patches. Down its face rolled two muddy tears, 
 its head hung to the ground, and its flanks heaved dis- 
 tressingly. Out of the vehicle it had been dragging 
 jumped a short, stout man, dressed in a loose flannel suit, 
 with a pith hat, the brim of which was so broad, the crown 
 so high, and the shape so suggestive of Bedlam, that the 
 wildest imaginings of our English readers will fail to 
 picture it.* Indians, however, will recognise an old friend 
 at once. The wearer had fiery red hair and whiskers, with 
 a face to match, and was evidently of an irascible tem- 
 perament. Next descended a tall, gaunt, dark woman, his 
 wife, whose bonnet and hair were in such a state that a 
 little more dishevelment, and a little more dust, would 
 have fitted her exactly for the character of Madge Wild- 
 fire. She had been weeping bitterly, and suffering in- 
 
 * The sola or pith hat is worn in a variety of eccentric shapes, but 
 it is a real blessing, as it combines the most extraordinary lightness, 
 with strength, of any material in the vegetable kingdom. 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 277 
 
 tolerable agonies of mind on account of the little infant 
 which is handed to her by its black wet-nurse, who has 
 been coiled away at the foot of father and mother for those 
 weary forty miles. 
 
 Let us lift the handkerchief from baby's face. Poor 
 little thing ! Only six weeks old, and it has travelled all 
 through that terrible sun, a ray of which has hitherto 
 never been allowed to shine upon it ; and yet it opens its 
 bright little blue eyes, and is as jolly as possible. 
 
 The advent of so many people certainly increased the 
 power of defence, but it diminished the comforts of all ; for 
 the rooms of the house of refuge, though large, were not 
 numerous : the ladies, therefore, gave up the idea of sepa- 
 rate beds, and slept in parties of four or five on the floor, 
 while the men had tents which were pitched close to the 
 house. 
 
 Conrad Daymer, among others, was indefatigable in his 
 endeavours to make it siege proof, and at last even the 
 ladies took an interest in our fortifications. 
 
 Notwithstanding the warlike preparations which were 
 being made, and which shewed that the inhabitants of 
 Neelapore were in dread of being attacked unawares, the 
 business of the station went on as usual, the gentlemen 
 messing and sleeping at the rendezvous, their houses being 
 shut up, and left in charge of a servant or two. 
 
 The fortified house stood on the banks of the beautiful 
 winding lake of which we have spoken, and its garden- 
 
278 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 terrace, overlooking tlie water, afforded the inmates an 
 agreeable spot in which they might enjoy the comparatively 
 cool evening air ; for still no rain had fallen, and it was 
 hot, awfully hot. The pleasure-boats lay idly at the steps, 
 for there was not enough breeze in the evening to fill their 
 sails, though it blew a gale of hot wind during the day ; 
 besides, who could tell, if they ventured out, whether a 
 rifle ball from the wooded banks might not be stealthily 
 aimed at them ? 
 
 Sometimes a call would be made on Laura for her guitar 
 and a song to cheer the lonely hours ; but the music seemed 
 to fall harshly on the ear, and the performer generally 
 ended by abstractedly striking some low, melancholy 
 chords, more in unison with the thoughts of those around 
 her, than merry strains could possibly be. 
 
 " Laura, dearest Laura," said Conrad, one evening as 
 they sat together after daylight had departed, and the 
 faint light of the stars revealed objects in a dim, ghostly 
 light, " how brave, how good you are, to cheer all around 
 you with your hopeful voice. Oh, that this terrible trial 
 were over, for I see that anxiety is wasting you day by 
 day, and the sight almost drives me mad. I would rather 
 that we had sunk together, and been at rest in the Hooghly, 
 than that you should become the victim of these fiendish 
 natives." 
 
 " Dear Conrad, it is not manly of you to say so ; and if 
 Grod in His kindness should deliver us from these straits, 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIPE. 279 
 
 we shall enjoy all the more the many blessings which, 
 perhaps, we have never hitherto fully appreciated." 
 
 A sad time, truly, for the youthful pair, for vs^hom every- 
 thing had worn such radiant hues but a short space before. 
 
 As yet, however, their trials were not to be compared 
 with those experienced by the numerous victims to the 
 relentless cruelty of the natives at many of the stations in 
 the north-west provinces. They had still some faithful 
 servants, who seemed to show no sympathy with the sepoys 
 in their murderous animosity to their English masters, and 
 even to the last moment it was hoped that the rebellion 
 would not spread so far to the south. These hopes, how- 
 ever, proved fallacious, and in a short time, they were 
 doomed to experience some of those horrors which can 
 never be forgotten by the unfortunates who experienced 
 them, but which have almost faded away, as does the hideous 
 nightmare, from the memory of our countrymen. 
 
 Had there been no native troops at Neelapore, it is highly 
 probable that no rising would have taken place, but un- 
 fortunately such was not the case, and there is no doubt 
 that the capture and death by hanging of an emissary of the 
 King of Delhi at Nadanpore, brought matters to a crisis. 
 We have been told since by natives that the Mahomedan 
 troopers of the irregular corps at the nearest military sta- 
 tion to Neelapore, had sw^orn, that if the above man w^ere 
 hanged, they would, within two days, murder their officers 
 and join the mutiny in a body, and it actually happened as 
 
280 EASTWARDS, OB 
 
 they liad vowed. A troop of these irregular horseman sta- 
 tioned at Neelapore, was commanded by a gigantic Mahome- 
 dan, named Sureef Khan. He was six feet four in height, 
 and proportionately broad and strong, with a very sinister 
 look, quite at variance with his manner, which was in- 
 tensely polite and obsequious. He had sworn upon the 
 beard of the collector of the station, who had, by-the-bye, 
 particularly fraternised with him, that, so far as he could 
 prevent it, no harm should come to any one ; and the ir- 
 regular cavalry throughout India having up to this time 
 been faithful, he was almost believed. 
 
 This half belief was, however, soon resolved into a 
 certain assurance of his treachery, in the following 
 manner : — One morning, Jayram, an old Hindoo servant 
 of Mr. Templemore's, begged him to come into the ve- 
 randah, as he had something of importance to communi- 
 cate. " Sahib," he said, " last night out of curiosity, I crept 
 up to the sowars' (cavalry) encampment, and heard Sureef 
 Khan and one or two others discussing some news which a 
 secret messenger had brought them from the head-quarters 
 of their regiment. Oh, sir, I am almost afraid to tell you ; 
 but they said the Major Sahib and his wife were shot while 
 driving round the parade ground, and that the rebellious 
 Mahomed Hassain, of Goruckpore, had offered a thousand 
 rupees for the Major's head. He was, therefore, decapi- 
 tated, and thrown by the road side, near the dead body of 
 his poor wife. They then killed the doctor and his family, 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 281 
 
 and burnt the house over them. After a little discussion, 
 Sureef Khan proposed they should join the jail guards here, 
 murder all the Europeans, and then divide the seven lacs 
 (£70,000) in the treasury." 
 
 Mr. Templemore felt the sickness of death creep over 
 him as he listened to the man's tale ; but to betray any 
 symptoms of fear would have been so impolitic that he 
 thanked and rewarded him, and pretended not to quite 
 credit his story. Alas ! he had scarcely reached the break- 
 fast room when a travel-stained messenger, who had been 
 heavily bribed, came in with a note concealed in his hair. 
 It was from Nadanpore, and said, "poor Major Holmes 
 and his wife* were barbarously murdered two days ago, as 
 were also Dr. Garner, his wife, and infant ; one child, a 
 girl, who was out walking with the ayah, was concealed in 
 the house of a woman of bad character, and was saved." 
 In fact, the note confirmed the old servant's account, and 
 it concluded by stating that as soon as they could be spared 
 a hundred Europeans would be sent to their aid. 
 
 As the news was whispered from one to another, the sad, 
 fixed, look of despair stole over the faces of the unfortunates 
 at Neelapore, the men solemnly swearing to fight to the 
 last breath, and to shoot the women rather than allow them 
 to fall into the hands of the natives. 
 
 * This lady was the daughter of Lady Sale, who was a prisoner 
 among the Affghans, gave birth to a daughter there, lost her first 
 husband, was remarried, and ended lier eventful life as we relate ; she 
 used to behave like a mother to the men of her husband's regiment. 
 
282 EASTWAEDS, OE 
 
 As we liave mentioned before, the officials still attended 
 their different offices, and though everyone about the courts 
 knew what was brewing, they still went through the 
 mockery of respect and obedience to the officials. This 
 almost absurd state of things was at last brought to a close 
 by an attempt being made on the Judge's life, as he was 
 driving home from his court. 
 
 As usual with the natives, the assassination was well 
 planned but badly executed. A shot was fired from be- 
 hind a tree, two or three men rushed up to the buggy, 
 and tried to cut down Mr. Templemore with their 
 tulwars : but he was driving too fast for them to make 
 sure of their aim, and the hood of the buggy warded 
 off their blows, while a few bounds of the high-spirited 
 blood mare took him past the danger, and he was so far 
 safe. 
 
 None of the natives about the courts, nor any of the 
 townspeople, came to sympathise with him or express their 
 regret at the dastardly attack ; and it was seen by all that 
 matters had reached their crisis. That night the guard on 
 duty at the house of refuge were startled by the sudden 
 illumination of the sky in the direction of the Collector's 
 and Magistrate's houses, and men, women, and children 
 turned out to look at the awful sight, while the yells from 
 the mob, who were fairly let loose, echoed through the still 
 night air. 
 
 " There go all your things, Harrington," said some one 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 283 
 
 to the Magistrate; "and now there's another fire — that 
 must be Edwards's house." 
 
 The two poor men and their wives looked on in a kind of 
 stupor, at the destruction of every valuable they had, and 
 strange to say, seemed almost indifferent, so absorbed were 
 they in the thoughts of what might happen to-morrow. 
 
 The first act of the insurgents was, of course, to let the 
 jail-birds loose, and their next to take possession of the 
 treasury. Here, however, a slight hitch in the arrangements 
 took place, as the cavalry claimed more than their share. 
 At last it was settled that the boxes of treasure should not 
 be touched till all the Europeans had been killed, and then 
 a fair division should be made. All the property in the 
 different houses in the station was looted, and the col- 
 lector's great friend, the arch-scoundrel, Sureef Khan, 
 open that gentleman's wardrobes, and took everything of 
 the best for himself, down to — and this annoyed him most 
 — his Shetland wool stockings. 
 
 Early in the morning, after burning and destroying 
 everything belonging to their masters, a disorderly onslaught 
 was made on the house. Headed by a few of the bravest, 
 they attempted to carry it by a sudden rush, but the 
 besieged being all sportsmen, were first-rate shots, and 
 knocked over the leaders like nine-pins, before they reached 
 within fifty yards. The result was that the besiegers 
 retreated, vowing terrible retribution for their losses. 
 
 They now seemed to change their tactics, and no more 
 
284 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 assaults were made, but their new method of attack was 
 much more harassing. They took possession of all the 
 outhouses which covered the approaches to the wells, and 
 dug trenches on either side of the compound which led 
 down to the lake, from which they could fire on any one 
 going down for water, thus preventing the besieged from 
 procuring any. The supply of provisions was entirely cut 
 off, and the store they had laid in was now all they had to 
 depend upon. Only three or four native servants remained, 
 and the poor ladies helped in the cooking and all the 
 menial duties. 
 
 Volleys were fired every now and then at the doors 
 and windows, but as these were all half bricked up, and 
 the upper portions protected by mattresses and rubbish 
 of every description, no harm was done. 
 
 The heat inside now became awful, and it was lucky 
 that at night the wretched defenders could creep up the 
 turret stairs to the terraced roof, to enjoy the cool night 
 air. This, although refreshing, brought on fever with some, 
 and the likelihood of a pestilence breaking out in a place 
 so crowded became more and more imminent. No letters 
 were of course received, and our friends could not tell what 
 steps were being taken to relieve them. 
 
 As day after day passed without a sign, they began to 
 fear that the messenger they had despatched to Nadanpore 
 on the night of the conflagration had betrayed them, and to 
 add to the horrors of their position, they became aware 
 
EEALITIES or INDIAN LIFE. 285 
 
 that the natives were mining their way to the house. They 
 had a long distance to dig, but it was quiet slow work, just 
 suited to their character, and was likely to be successful 
 without involving much risk. The besieged now attempted 
 to countermine, but they were perfectly unskilled in such 
 matters, and could not for a time ascertain the real direc- 
 tion of the gallery. 
 
 In the mean time the duty of watching this, and being 
 contantly ready for a rush, so fatigued them that they could 
 hardly stand, and it was seen that unless assistance came 
 speedily, exhaustion, bad food, and vitiated air would fore- 
 stall the enemy. The water, too, was fast disappearing, 
 and they were now living on rice and dall (di'ied peas), the 
 live stock, consisting of fowls, having been soon consumed. 
 The poor women became utterly regardless of appearances, 
 and the men, blackened with gunpowder and pale as ghosts 
 with the heat, were hardly to be recognised. 
 
 The house had been so well protected and was so massively 
 built, that up to this time none of its defenders had 
 been wounded, but the privations and suffocating atmosphere 
 had already prostrated many of the women and children. 
 The latter suffered the most, and the poor little baby which 
 we have mentioned died in Laura's arms, its mother lying 
 unconscious from fever. It was buried just outside the 
 walls during the night, mid solemn silence, and the burying 
 party escaped without being fired on. 
 
 Conrad Daymer was frenzied when he looked on Laura, 
 
286 EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 and saw her loved face day by day becoming more death- 
 like, and he determined to make one effort to save her and 
 the garrison. He proposed to Mr. Templemore and the 
 others that he should slip out disguised, and make the best 
 of his way to Nadanpore for assistance. The old servant, 
 Jayram, whom we have already mentioned, upon being: 
 interrogated as to the route, said that his house lay about 
 half way between the two stations, and that he was willing 
 to accompany Conrad. His offer was thankfully accepted, 
 and with the aid of a suit of his clothes, and a plentiful 
 smearing of lamp black, turmeric, and oil, Conrad was con- 
 verted into a very disreputable-looking native. 
 
 At midnight the lovers bade each other what perhaps 
 might be their last adieu, but necessity is a stern master, 
 and strengthened by despair, the one begun his task with a 
 hopeful heart, while the other resigned herself in tearful 
 agony to the will of Providence. 
 
 It was arranged that the besieged should attract atten- 
 tion to the front of the house, and while the usual fusilade 
 consequent on any movement was going on, Conrad and old 
 Jayram should creep down to the edge of the lake, and get- 
 ting into the old canoe moored there, should lie dowTi in it, 
 and paddle with their hands only, and thus silently pass 
 down beyond the line of sentries, whose attention would 
 doubtless be attracted to the commotion in front. 
 
 Laura and one or two others, crouching on the terrace, 
 with scarcely beating hearts and bated breath, saw the two 
 
REALITIES or INDIAN LIFE. 287 
 
 dark forms glide down to the water, and did not cease to 
 watch for any movement on that side which might betoken 
 the miscarriage of the scheme, till the signal that all was 
 well struck plainly on their eager ears. It was the prolonged 
 scream of the jackal (uttered by Jayram) which the natives 
 can imitate to the life. One prayer for their success, and 
 our heroine and her companions stole down again to comfort 
 the sick and tend the dying. 
 
 It was wonderful to see the patience and resignation of 
 the women under all the trials they had to undergo, and 
 there is no doubt that the heroic attitude sustained by all, 
 through the withering storms of that calamitous year, 
 wonderfully raised the prestige of England's sons and 
 daughters in the eyes of the merciless natives. 
 
 After Conrad's departure, the garrison calculated the 
 amount of food left in store, and it was found that they 
 must curtail their already insufficient meals to enable them 
 to hold out for another week. 
 
 The expression of feelings of misery has a limit, and when 
 the worst was known, no remarks were made ; a deep-drawn 
 sigh from one, or a long look at those he loved from another, 
 were all the outward marks of despair. Day by day those 
 of the ladies who had been able to work for tlie rest were 
 deprived of one or two of their members, and those who 
 still could crawl about had double duty to perform. Poor 
 Laura's youth and short residence in India still carried her 
 through every trial, but her aunt, and many others, were 
 
288 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 struck down from tlie very first from fright, and she now 
 lay in an alarming state of exhaustion and low fever. 
 
 The operations of the miners, although frustrated once or 
 twice, still continued, and lacking any scientific knowledge 
 of such things, the besieged wasted a great deal of time and 
 strength in their ill-directed efforts to avert the danger. 
 Besides this, the foundations of the house were deep and 
 strong, and presented formidable obstacles to the wearied 
 hands who had to break through them to commence 
 the countermines. Their only hope lay in succour arriving 
 in time. They hardly considered that Nadanpore itself was 
 in a very precarious state, placed on one side of a large 
 Mahomedan town, which would undoubtedly have risen had 
 our arms been unsuccessful in the North West. But how 
 could they judge fairly ; they only knew they were in des- 
 perate straits, and hope's sweet angel, the last always to 
 quit poor sorrowing mortals, still hovered over them and 
 cheered them with her smile. 
 
 Two days more passed away — still no help. The strongest 
 now gave in, and very few shots were fired in answer to the 
 volleys which the fresh relays of besiegers poured into the 
 battered doors and windows. The women were all huddled 
 away on the side of the house remotest from the supposed 
 direction of the last mine. Those of the men who could 
 hold their guns sat watching the place, but with little hope 
 of being able to withstand their assailants if it did 
 succeed. 
 
EEALITIES OF IlfDIAN LIFE. 2S9 
 
 At last a loud but muffled report told that it was 
 sprung, and was followed by a tremendous yell from tbe 
 infuriated fiends around them. A large verandah and two 
 rooms came down with a crash, and the air was darkened by 
 a cloud of dust. The besiegers made a rush, but were met 
 by a volley from the few desperate defenders of the breach, 
 who, now that they were exposed, lost two of their number, 
 and had to retire into the shelter of the nearest room. There 
 was a hesitation for a moment or two in the attack. A short 
 silence, when, merciful Heavens ! — can it be ? It is, it is ! 
 — an English cheer. 
 
 The cowardly rabble are taken unawares ; they fly like 
 sheep, and are bayoneted in scores. A few of the deliverers 
 are mounted, and cut up the fugitives, who scatter in 
 every direction. 
 
 In half an hour the fight is over. 
 
 "Who shall describe the feelings of gratitude of that poor 
 hunger-stricken band, or the joy of their deliverers to think 
 that they had been in time. In time, but not for all. Two 
 of the ladies lay dead in one corner, and one or two more 
 were not expected to survive. 
 
 " Let us try to save those who still live," said the medical 
 man who accompanied the party, and fifty willing hands 
 tore open the windows and doors, and allowed air to enter 
 the house. 
 
 Conrad, who had been in the thickest of the fight, and 
 was covered with blood and blackened with powder, rushed 
 
 19 
 
290 EASTWARDS, OE 
 
 madly to find Laura and was horror stricken when he saw 
 the ravages that the last few days had made in her and her 
 companions. 
 
 She folded him proudly in her arms and thanked God 
 that he was safe, while he, still hot from the strife, could 
 not repress his almost savage exultation at the retribution 
 which he had aided in bringing down on the authors of such 
 a pitiful scene. 
 
 The joy of their meeting was however clouded by anxiety 
 about Mrs. Templemore, who seemed in the last stage of 
 weakness, hardly recognising Conrad when he knelt at her 
 bed-side, and in whispered accents told her to be of good 
 cheer. 
 
 A day or two more of hardship and she must have suc- 
 cumbed, but after a week's nursing she began to rally, and 
 then her recovery was rapid. 
 
 Conrad insisted on Laura placing herself on the sick list 
 with her aunt, and constituted himself head nurse and com- 
 forter to both of them, and great was his joy and satis- 
 faction when, after a week's care, he could take out his 
 patients for a gentle drive. 
 
 Mr. Templemore was terribly altered, and looked ten 
 years older, but he had stood the trial better than most of 
 his companions, and sooner recovered from its efiects. 
 
 In following the fortunes of Conrad, we had almost for- 
 gotten old Jayram who was thanked and feted all over the 
 station and became such an authority in all matters, that 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 291 
 
 the native officials of tlie different courts sent him heavy 
 presents as propitiatory offerings, with humble requests 
 that he would use his influence to have them reinstated in 
 the judge's favour. The old fellow took everything that 
 came, quite coolly, gave his moustache an extra curl, put on 
 a resplendent gold necklace, laid in a small barrow load of 
 brass cooking utensils, and a stock of new clothes, of which 
 the most modest colours were canary and scarlet, bought a 
 long-tailed ambling pony, and sent home orders to his 
 native village by a trustworthy relation to feed all the 
 Brahmins for four miles round, and to look out for a nice 
 little girl of twelve or fourteen years of age, whom he would 
 honour with his hand, when next the marrying months 
 came round. The old man had acted splendidly throughout, 
 and Conrad, in recounting the story, candidly confessed 
 that without his aid, he never could have accomplished his 
 task. He was first taken by his guide to his village, where 
 he procured him a hearty meal of milk and rice, and per- 
 suaded him to rest for three hours. He then either stole 
 or borrowed a couple of ponies, and with blankets for 
 saddles, they rode into Nadanpore. Here they heard of 
 Niel and Havelock's victories, and were able to secure two 
 hundred Europeans and twenty mounted volunteers. With 
 these they pushed on night and day, but they had to keep 
 together, and it was the third morning before they could 
 reach Neelapore. 
 
 It hardly needed the defeat they had experienced to make 
 
292 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 the besieging parties disperse in all directions, for they also 
 had heard of the success of the British arms in the North 
 "West, and had intended to make for Oude so soon as they 
 had massacred the garrison of Neelapore. 
 
 In the course of a week or two the force at Mr. Temple- 
 more's disposal enabled him to punish those of the towns- 
 people of Neelapore who had joined in the rising, as well as 
 those of the native officials who had not fled the country. 
 Some of those who remained, and at the best had been but 
 neutral, now came forward and proved in the most satisfactory 
 manner, that even had the European troops not arrived, 
 they had made arrangements to raise the siege. Of course 
 they were not believed. The scales had fallen from the eyes 
 of every civilian in India, and although it was impos- 
 sible to punish all concerned, the authorities had their 
 own ideas on the subject, and the natives could tell by the 
 look and gesture of their rulers, that the time for trifling had 
 gone by. 
 
 The actual inhabitants of the district had certainly not 
 joined in the attack on the station ; but if they had chosen 
 they might easily have raised a force which would have 
 scattered the jail-guards and the irregular cavalry, who were 
 the leaders in the outbreak. 
 
 When the large landed proprietors saw that the British 
 star was again in the ascendant, they were profuse in their 
 expressions of loyalty and regret at the indignities suff'ered 
 by the officials of their district ; and the Grovernment had to 
 
REALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 293 
 
 accept their apologies for non-action with the best grace it 
 could. 
 
 After Mrs. Templemore and Laura had recovered a little, 
 Conrad gave them an account of all he had heard at Nadan- 
 pore, especially with regard to Desmond. " Poor misguided 
 fellow," he said, "he is no more. He shunned everyone 
 after the exposure about his wife, and when his regiment 
 met the enemy, he evidently only wished to throw away his 
 life. At one of their attacks on a fortified village, the strong- 
 hold of the defenders was a Mahomedan mosque, which a few 
 desperate men held to the last. Not having guns with them, 
 the only method of dislodging the occupants was by blowing 
 open the door. This Desmond volunteered to do with his 
 own hand, and after he had succeeded, rushed in upon the 
 enemy, when he was cut to pieces, before his men could over- 
 power the band of desperadoes." 
 
 " Did you hear anything about poor Mr. Struggles ?" 
 said Laura. 
 
 "Yes," replied Conrad. "He never had an opportunity 
 of revenging himself on his sheristadar, as that worthy 
 quietly poisoned himself when his house was surrounded by a 
 party sent out to surprise him. He has resigned the service, 
 and leaves shortly for England. He says that, what with 
 " competition civilians, railways, and European interlopers 
 of all kinds, India is no longer a fit place for a man of familj'- 
 to remain in." 
 
 By the end of the rains the rebellion was stopped in its 
 
29i EASTWARDS, OR 
 
 progress, and all the lower provinces of Bengal returned to 
 their usual quiet state. Communication was restored with 
 the up country stations, and Laura heard, every now and then, 
 from Hampton, who had joined the small body of volunteer 
 cavalry which accompanied Havelock's column to Cawnpore 
 and Lucknow, and in which he had greatly distinguished 
 himself. He had been lucky enough to escape sun- 
 stroke and wounds, and when the weather became cool, 
 wrote in high spirits of his share in the different fights. 
 He seemed also to have secured the friendship of those 
 in power, and had been promised an appointment in the 
 Punjaub. 
 
 As the bracing north winds of the cold weather began 
 to blow on the plains, Mrs. Templemore and Laura once more 
 looked themselves again. They had indeed passed through the 
 valley of the shadow of death, and many a day of peace and 
 cfuiet must pass before their minds could recover the dreadful 
 shock they had received; but in a calm, placid way, they 
 were happy, and thankful when they considered how many 
 homes had been made miserable, while all the members of 
 their family had been spared. 
 
 And now, with reluctant hand, we must lay our last sketch 
 before our readers. It is one over which we linger with 
 more than ordinary interest, for in it we must bid adieu 
 to all the friends whom we have accompanied through 
 so many perils, and wish "God speed" to our gentle 
 Laura. 
 
EEALITIES OF INDIAN LIFE. 295 
 
 It is a bright, breezy morning in the month of February. 
 The mimic waves are dashing on the shore, or curHng them- 
 selves into tiny breakers on the sparkHng bosom of the 
 Neelapore Lake. The trees are beginning to shew their 
 bright green leaflets, and the fields glow with the dazzling 
 contrasts presented by the different bright-coloured crops 
 which flourish under the tropical sun. The roads are covered 
 with crowds of gaily dressed natives (who are more obsequious 
 and polite than ever), with heavily-laden carts, elephants, 
 strings of camels, droves of little knock-kneed, humble-looking 
 donkeys, files of milkmen trotting in with their wares slung 
 on their shoulders by bamboo yokes, richly clothed grandees 
 in palankins, fakeers with no clothing at all, goats, dogs, 
 cows, old women, toddling children, and the fifty other com- 
 ponent parts of the scene presented by the main road of a 
 native town on a fine, cold weather morning. Through the 
 tangled mass comes driving an English carriage and pair and 
 several buggies, which are whirling along to the tune of 
 twelve miles an hour. 
 
 But what means all this gathering of vehicles in the 
 Judge's compound, this rushing to and fro of snowy-gar- 
 mented servants, and this constant arrival of guests ? Why 
 are all the gates and verandahs festooned with flowers ? and 
 why in the dining-room this tremendous long table, laid out 
 for at least fifty ? 
 
 As we enter the lofty drawing-room, our questions are 
 answered at a glance. ' 
 
296 EASTWAEDS, OR 
 
 Here, in the centre of a group of friends, stands Laura in 
 her bridal dress, with Conrad beside her. He looks supremely 
 happy, and as he, ever and anon, bends down to whisper 
 softly to her, almost touches the orange blossoms in her 
 wreath with his lips. Near them are Mrs. Blandon and her 
 charming daughters, all looking as lively as if the atmos- 
 phere of marriages had some peculiarly exhilarating effect. 
 They are come up from Calcutta to spend a month with Mrs. 
 Templemore, and the young ladies are to officiate as brides- 
 maids. Graily talking to them is Hampton Templemore 
 (down on a fortnight's leave of absence), bronzed, moustached 
 and bearded, with such a dashing, take-you-by-storm look 
 that it is .the sisters' turn now to guard the citadels of their 
 hearts, and we really do believe this time he will settle which 
 one it is to be. 
 
 Mr. Templemore looks as rosy and as little like an Indian 
 as ever, and, forgetting all the troubles he has gone through, 
 is laughing and joking merrily. His wife, pale, delicate, and 
 exquisitely dressed, is radiant with smiles as she receives the 
 felicitations of her friends. 
 
 Now the clergyman is ready. The youthful pair plight 
 their troth, and, after receiving the congratulations of the 
 party, Conrad proudly leads his blushing bride into the 
 banqueting room. The champagne corks fly in all directions, 
 toast follows toast, cheer echoes cheer. Here is the carriage 
 at the door. One cheer more — a hundred good b3^es. Now 
 for the old slippers — that's right. Crack goes the whip, the 
 
EEALITIES OF IKDIA:^- LIFE. 297 
 
 horses bound forward, and they are off, with whom do jou 
 think tucked up behind in the dickey ? — why old Jayram, 
 who saved the garrison, and who is to be provided for by 
 Conrad for the rest of his days. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 PRINTED BY F. C. HAKRISOK, QTJEEN'S TERRACE, ST. JOHK'S WOOD. 
 
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