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VOYAGES 
 
 TRAVELS ROUND THE WORLD, 
 
 
 REV. DANIEL TYERMAN AND GEORGE BENNET, ESQ. 
 
 DEPUTED FROM THE 
 
 LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY 
 
 TO VISIT THEIR VARIOUS STATIONS 
 
 IN THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDS, AUSTRALIA, CHINA, INDIA : 
 MADAGASCAR, AND SOUTH AFRICA, 
 
 BETWEEN THE YEARS 1821 AND 1S20. 
 COMPILED FROM ORIGINAL DOCUMENTS 
 
 BY JAMES M O N T G O M E R Y. 
 
 THE SECOND EDITION, CORRECTED. 
 
 I'.F.M I II i l.l.v ILLUSTRATED WITH TWENTY-SIX ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 " Clovify y ( > the n.imo of thn Lonl r;oil of Israel in tli.> isl.-s of the sea. From tho uttermost part of tlio earth 
 h:uv w.; li.vinl son-.'s ^vn lory to the risfhteoua." ISAIAH xxiv. 15, 16. 
 
 LONDON: 
 PUBLISHED BY JOHN SNOW, 35, PATERNOSTER ROW. 
 
 1841. 
 
c 4-1 
 
 LONDON i 
 
 I'riiilcd hy \VIM.IAM Ci .o\\ 
 Sumicml Street. 
 
Bancroft 
 
 TO THE KING'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY. 
 
 (WILLIAM IV.) 
 
 SIRE, 
 
 BY YOUR MAJESTY'S gracious permission, the Directors of the London Missionary 
 Society, with profound sentiments of loyalty and respect, have the honour to present 
 to YOUR MAJESTY the following ' Journal of Voyages and Travels,' performed by a 
 Deputation from the Society commissioned to visit its Missionary Stations, in the South 
 Pacific Ocean and various other parts of the World. 
 
 More than thirty years have elapsed since the Founders of the Society dedicated to 
 YOUR MAJESTY'S August Father 'The Missionary Voyage of the Ship Duff;' under- 
 taken to convey to the inhabitants of Otaheite, and other islands in that part of the 
 Pacific, the Missionaries whose persevering labours, in conjunction with those of others 
 who have followed them in the same benevolent career, have, by the blessing of the 
 Almighty, led to the happy change of which YOUR MAJESTY will in these volumes 
 find an Authentic Narrative. 
 
 That the Knowledge of the Divine Author of our Holy Religion is thus diffused 
 amongst Mankind cannot fail to afford high satisfaction to YOUR MAJESTY, as a 
 Philanthropist ; that any portion of the Subjects of your Realm should be rendered the 
 instruments of promoting that Object will increase the happiness enjoyed by YOUR 
 MAJESTY, as the Father of your People. 
 
 That YOUR MAJESTY may long reign over a free, loyal, religious, and happy People, 
 and may at last receive the Crown of Immortal Life, is the devout prayer of 
 
 YOUR MAJESTY'S 
 Most humble, 
 
 Most dutiful, 
 And most devoted Subjects and Servants, 
 
 THE DIRECTORS OF 
 
 THE LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 THE Missionary Society,* founded on the Ca- 
 tholic principle of union among Christians of 
 various denominations, was established in the 
 autumn of 1795. The first undertaking of its 
 founders and patrons was to send the Gospel 
 to the islands of the Pacific Ocean. Accordingly 
 in the year following, the ship Duff, commanded 
 by Cap tain Wilson, sailed with twenty-nine Mis- 
 sionaries (of whom several were married, and 
 had their wives and children with them) on 
 board, and arrived in March, 1797, at Tahiti, 
 then, and still, by some reputable writers, mis- 
 called Otaheite, where the greater part of the 
 company took up their residence. Others were 
 settled at St. Christiana and Tongatabu. For 
 nearly seventeen years, under many adverse and 
 discouraging circumstances, the work (thus be- 
 gun) was continued with apparently little suc- 
 cess. It afterwards pleased God, in his own good 
 time and way, to display his power and glory 
 among the people who there sat in darkness and 
 the shadow of death ; nor hath his word, since 
 that time, ceased to grow and prevail : island 
 after island has abandoned idolatry, and, while 
 multitudes of the inhabitants have professed obe- 
 dience to the faith, many have given satisfactory- 
 evidence of genuine conversion. All the prin- 
 cipal events contributing towards this great 
 change, or accompanying and following it, are 
 touched upon in the volume here submitted to 
 the public, with sufficient clearness, it is hoped, to 
 render any explanations unnecessary in th is place. 
 In the year 1821, the Rev. Daniel Tyennnn, 
 of the Isle of Wight, and George Bennet, Esq. 
 of Sheffield, were deputed by the Parent Society 
 to visit the various stations in those uttermost 
 parts of the sea, both for the purpose of cheer- 
 ing the hearts and strengthening the hands of 
 the Missionaries, and, as representatives of the 
 Christian community at home, to witness ami 
 report what great things the Lord had done for 
 the heathen there. The following quotations 
 from a circular, issued by the Directors, in 
 1820, will more particularly show their inten- 
 tions in making the appointment which, at first 
 embraced the South Sea Islands only, though, 
 in the sequel, it included the Stations in the 
 
 * Now known by the name of the Iwdnn Missionary 
 Society, to distinguish it from similar institutions of 
 later date, and which are confined principally to th 
 particular bodies of Christians to which they are respect- 
 ively attached. 
 
 other quarters of the world : " The great ob- 
 jects of the Deputation will be, to make them- 
 selves thoroughly acquainted with the state of 
 the Missions, and of the islands ; and to suggest^ 
 and, if possible, carry into effect, such plans 
 as shall appear to be requisite for the further- 
 ance of the gospel, and for introducing among 
 the natives the occupations and habits of civi- 
 lised life. In order to the attainment of these 
 objects, it is proposed to form such arrange- 
 ments as shall tend to the introduction of 
 Christian Churches ; the establishment and 
 improvements of schools for the children of the 
 Missionaries and of the natives, and, eventually, 
 of trades; and a proper and constant attention 
 to the cultivation of the ground." 
 
 These first objects of their appointment lieinir 
 fulfilled, the Deputation were subsequently in- 
 structed by the directors to proceed to Ja\a, 
 the East Indies, &c., on a like embassy of good- 
 will and friendly enquiry, to the numerous 
 establishments, insular and continental, in that 
 quarter of the world, where the society had 
 agents, doing the work of evangelists, 
 additional duties having been likewise accom- 
 plished, the Deputation, under special circum- 
 stances, were authorised to survey another Held 
 of Missionary labour in Madag;> 
 important results might be expected from their 
 presence at that particular time. Then 
 ever, Mr. Tyerman was suddenly removed by 
 death; and Mr. Bonnet, in consequent 
 political revolution in the island, was compelled 
 to leave it. After visiting some of the stations 
 in South Africa, he reached England in the 
 summer of 1S29 ; and, as early as ar: 
 ments could be made, the work now pn 
 to the public was undertaken. 
 
 The documents, official and private, from 
 which this volume has been composed, were 
 of great bulk, and exceedingly multifarious. 
 They consisted chiefly of a journal kept by both 
 members of the Deputation, jointly, during the 
 first two years of their travels, and a separate 
 one by Mr. Tyerman, continued to nearly the 
 day of his death. Mr. Bennet subsequently 
 furnished several interesting narratives and 
 other valuable contributions. These materials, 
 however, were so extensive and miscellaneous, 
 as well as so minute, that it became the duty of 
 the compiler, instead of abridging or condensing 
 the mass, to recompose the whole, in such a 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 form as should enable him to bring forth, in 
 succession, as they occurred to the travellers 
 themselves, the most striking and curious facts 
 relative to their personal adventures, or which 
 came to their knowledge by the way. He has 
 therefore trod step by step after them, confin- 
 ing himself; as faithfully as practicable, to the 
 order of subjects, under the original dates, after 
 exercising his best discretion in the use of his 
 materials, chiefly consisting of memoranda, gene- 
 rally rough and unshapen the first thoughts, 
 in the first words of the writers, at the time, 
 and upon the spot, recording the actual impres- 
 sions and feelings awakened or confirmed by 
 the things themselves. These he has endea- 
 voured so to exhibit as to do full justice to the 
 individuals whose journals he was thus retra- 
 cing, and on whose authority the statements 
 derived from them must rest. 
 
 Throughout the whole of this ample narra- 
 tive and the occasional episodes, great care has 
 been taken to preserve as many personal, 
 national, and moral traits of character, tradi- 
 tions, fragments of history, and anecdotes of 
 the superstition, forms of government, manners, 
 customs, and practices, of the inhabitants of the 
 South and North Pacific Islanders, as could be 
 published without offence to decorum. But it 
 must be plainly stated that the half of their abo- 
 minations may not be told however harmless, 
 amiable, and happy they have been represented 
 in their former state by occasional visitors, too 
 many of whom loved them for their licentious- 
 ness, and knew little, and cared less, about the 
 reckless tyranny of their chiefs, the diabolical 
 frauds of their priests, their wars of massacre, 
 and their unnatural cruelties one towards ano- 
 ther, especially their nearest connexions. No- 
 thing which has contributed to make a class of 
 human beings either better or worse than other- 
 wise they Avould have been, and at the same 
 time different from all others of their fellow- 
 creatures, can be insignificant or uninteresting ; 
 and however puerile, absurd, horrible, or revolt- 
 ing, many things here stated may be in them- 
 selves, it was from the accumulation and pres- 
 sure of these that society, through unregistered 
 ages, took its form in the most fertile and beau- 
 tiful regions of the Pacific. Hence the slight- 
 est memorial of the least influential of such 
 co-operating causes must be of some value, and 
 worthy of preservation, if it add but an atom 
 to our knowledge of human nature, essentially 
 the same everywhere, though varying in its 
 aspect according to external contingencies. A 
 chapter would have been wanting in the his- 
 tory of our species, or at best the contents of 
 
 it, collected from other sources, would be ex- 
 ceedingly deficient, if the authentic information 
 furnished by resident Missionaries, and collected 
 by the late Deputation, were not noio rescued 
 from oblivion, and put upon record, in such pub- 
 lications as Mr. Ettis's Polynesian Researches 
 and the following Journal. From the plan of the 
 latter it will be found that the same topics are 
 occasionally referred to again and again ; but 
 in each instance presented under new phases, 
 and with additional particulars, as the travellers 
 obtained fuller and clearer intelligence on points 
 which were continually the object of inquiry 
 and examination. In a few years all traces of 
 the former things which are now done away 
 would have been 1 for ever obliterated : the old 
 who still remember them would be dead ; the 
 rising generation, of course, are brought up in 
 the knowledge of those better things which arc 
 regenerating society throughout all the Chris- 
 tianised islands. This, then, which would have 
 been expedient under any circumstances, has 
 become necessary at the present time, when 
 the grossest fictions arc invented, industriously 
 circulated, and in some instances eagerly re- 
 ceived to bring the Missionaries and their 
 labours into contempt. 
 
 In chapter xxxii. page 170, of this work, 
 will be found some mention of a visit paid by 
 the Russian Captain Kotzebue to Tahiti, at a 
 time when the Deputation were there. There 
 has lately been published in England what is 
 called " A New Voyage Round the World," 
 &c. by this gentleman. In a section of more 
 than a hundred pages, entitled " O Ta/uiiti," 
 the writer has thought proper to assert as his- 
 torical facts things which never happened under 
 the sun, and to express sentiments concerning 
 the Missionaries and their converts, which no 
 man could entertain who was not under strong 
 prejudice, if not actual delusion. This is not 
 the place to expose his errors in detail. That 
 will, probably, be done from another quarter, 
 and by an abler hand ; but two or three of his 
 misrepresentations must not be passed over, as 
 they stand in direct contradiction to much that 
 will be found in the following pages respecting 
 the introduction of Christianity and its benign 
 effects in the Society Islands. The captain says : 
 " After many fruitless efforts, some English 
 Missionaries succeeded at length, in the year 
 1797, in introducing what they called Chris- 
 tianity into Tahaiti, and even in gaining over to 
 their doctrine King Tajo, who then governed 
 lie whole island in peace and tranquillity. 
 This conversion was a spark thrown into a 
 :>owder magazine, and was followed by a fear- 
 'ul explosion. The maraes were suddenly de- 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 stroyed by order of the king every memorial 
 of the former worship defaced the new religion 
 forcibly established, and whoever would not adopt 
 it put to death. With the zeal for making pro- 
 selytes, the rage of tigers took possession of a 
 people once so gentle. Streams of blood flowed ; 
 whole races were exterminated ; many resolutely 
 met the death they preferred to the renunciation 
 of their ancient faith," &c. * * * * * "King 
 Tajo, not content with seeing, in the remains 
 of his people, none but professors of the new 
 faith, resolved on making conquests, that he 
 might force it on the other Society Islands. lie 
 had already succeeded with most of them, when 
 a young warrior, Pomare, King of the little 
 island of Talma, took the field against him. 
 What he wanted in numbers was supplied by 
 his unexampled valour, and his superiority in 
 the art of war. He subdued one island after 
 another, and at last Tahaiti itself, and, having 
 captured its king, offered the zealous mvnlci; r 
 of his subjects as a sacrifice to their manes." 
 Vol. i. pp. 159, 160. 
 
 How much truth is thore in this straight- 
 forward statement? Let the reader judge. 
 There never existed such a personage as King 
 Tajo. Pomare the First was King of Tahiti 
 during the early residence of the Missionaries 
 in that island. He died in 1803, having never 
 so much as pretended to embrace Christianity. 
 He was succeeded in the sovereignty by his 
 son, Otu ; who eventually assumed the name 
 of Pomare II. Christianity was not received, 
 " after many fruitless efforts," in 1797 ; nor till 
 1814 were a "praying people" found among 
 the inhabitants. After that time they rapidly 
 multiplied. In the latter end of the following 
 year, 1815, the only battle that over took place 
 between Christians and idolaters, in Tahiti, 
 was fought, in which the latter were the 
 aggressors, and, after being defeated in the 
 field, Avere wholly subdued by the clemency of 
 Pomare in sparing his vanquished enemies, a 
 thing unheard of before in the exterminating 
 wars of these islanders. Since then neither 
 war nor battle has been known throughout the 
 whole windward group. [See Ellis's Polynesian 
 Researches, vol. I. chap. x. pp. 245 to 280; 
 and this Journal, chap. vi. p. 40.] In the 
 Leeward Islands, at Huahine, an idolatrous 
 army of rebels yielded, without a blow, to 
 Hautia, when that Christian chief offered them 
 pardon and peace. [See this Journal, chap. 
 xiii. p. 75.] In Tahaa the idolaters, under 
 King Fenuapeho, were routed by Tamatoa 
 King of Raiatea, and after the conflict the lives 
 of the prisoners, including Fenuapeho himself, 
 
 being spared, this chief and all his people sub- 
 mitted to the conqueror, who restored to the 
 former his sovereignty, and to the latter their 
 insular independence. [See this Journal, chap. 
 xxvi. p. 145. J The universal rejection of 
 heathenism, and acceptance of the gospel, in 
 each of these cases, followed the merciful use 
 of victory by the champions of the truth. There 
 are on record shocking instances of the murder 
 of natives for embracing the " new religion," 
 by the bigoted adherents of the old ; but Cap- 
 tain Kotzebue may be safely challenged to pro- 
 duce one example of an individual being put to 
 the alternative of preferring " death to the re- 
 nunciation of his ancient faith." It rests with 
 him also to show when, hoir, where, and by 
 whom, "whole races were exterminated;" 
 certainly not in any island, whose inhabitants 
 have been converted to Christianity, in the 
 South Seas. What he means at p. 100, vol. i., by 
 " the bloody persecution instituted by the .Mis- 
 sionaries, which performed the work of 
 1'itinir infection," he would find hard to explain 
 before the bar of God or man. At each he is 
 answerable for it. 
 
 He roundly affirms, that "the religion taught 
 by the Missionaries is not true Christianity." 
 [Vol. i.p. 168.] If that which Captain Kot/.chuo 
 practices be "true Christianity," assuredly that 
 which tho Missionaries teach is not. Try him 
 by his own test. In an interview with tin- 
 queen, he says, " She asked me whether I was 
 a Christian, and how often I prayed daily f 
 I merely replied, that we should be judged 
 according to our actions, rather than the num- 
 ber of our prayers." [Vol. i.p. 183.] 1 
 his fables and lucubrations, respecting tho Mis- 
 sionaries and thoir people, proves that he is not 
 of that religion which says, " Thou shalt not 
 bear false witness against thy neighbour." One 
 example may snilioe. Vol. i. p. I !'*, ho observes, 
 " Though the vice of theft has certainly greatly 
 diminished among the Tahaitans, they cannot 
 always refrain from endeavouring to appro- 
 priate tho articles they prize so highly. / 
 stance, I THINK, if any one of the Tahaitan 
 ladies had found an opportunity of stealing a 
 bit of the mock gold-lace, the temptation would 
 be too great to withstand." Thus, as an in- 
 stancc of irresistible thieving propensity in 
 ''the Tahaitan ladies," he thinks if something 
 which did not happen had happened, then a 
 certain consequence would have followed ; 
 What can any honest man think of " Otto von 
 Kotzebue, Post Captain in tho Russian Imperial 
 Navy, and Commander of the ship Pred- 
 priatie !" 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 vii 
 
 The rest of his slanders, sarcasms, and in- 
 sinuations, (especially at pp. 19G-7, which are 
 fitter for a court of justice than of criticism,) 
 may be left, for the present, to the exposure 
 which awaits them. It must be acknowledged 
 that in these the renowned circumnavigator 
 has afforded the public opportunity enough for 
 judging of his Christianity by his " actions ;" 
 one cannot help wishing, however, that he 
 had left one solitary specimen of his "prayers." 
 If he had, it is not uncharitable to suppose that 
 it might have begun thus : " God, I thank thee 
 that I am not like," &c. The reader may fill 
 up the form ; and, to assist him in doing this, 
 the following paragraph may be useful. It 
 seems that, on a former voyage, Captain Kotze- 
 bue had introduced yams into Otdia, one of 
 the Navigators' Islands, where, during his ab- 
 sence, they had been so successfully cultivated, 
 that (in his visit there after leaving Tahiti, he 
 -liown a pretty large field very well 
 stocked with them." He says, " The delight- 
 ful feelings with which I surveyed the new 
 plantation may bo imagined, when it is recol- 
 lected that these poor islanders, from want of 
 means of subsistence, are compelled, assuredly 
 with heavy hearts, to murder their own off- 
 spring, and that this yam alone is sufficient to 
 ivmove so horrible a necessity. I might joy- 
 fully aflinn, that, through nnj insfnoticntalify, 
 the distressed mother nri'd no longer look for- 
 ward to the birth of her third or fourth child 
 with the dreadful consciousness that she lias 
 endured, all her pains only to deliver a sacrifice 
 to the hand of tfte murderer. When she should 
 c!:is|) her child to her breast, and see her hus- 
 band look on it with a father's tenderness, they 
 might both remember Totabu,* and the bene- 
 ficent plants which he had given them." The 
 man who bad done this good deed, and could 
 enjoy, by anticipation, such a reward of it in 
 hi- own bosom, might have been taught, by his 
 hotter feelings, to "think"' and speak otherwise 
 than he has done of men, who have not only 
 introduced fruits and roots, but herds, and 
 Hocks, mechanic arts, reading and writing, 
 civilised manners and domestic comforts, (to 
 say nothing of " true Christianity,") into not 
 one but many islands men who, according to 
 his own confessions, have almost banished 
 drunkenness, thieving, and profligacy, so far as 
 their influence has reached ; men, through 
 whose " instrumentality," not in imagination, 
 but in fact, thousands of mothers have been 
 taught to spare all their children, instead of 
 " delivering" not the " third or the fourth*' 
 * Kotzebue, in t e island-dialect. 
 
 only, but three-fourths of them, as soon as they 
 were born, as "sacrifices to the hand of the 
 murderer." 
 
 To return to the main burthen of the present 
 Journal of the first Missionary Voyage ever 
 made round the world : an authority of a far 
 higher standard in literature and morals than 
 Captain Kotebue thus speaks of the humanis- 
 ing effects of the gospel : " Even over the 
 wild people, inhabiting a country as cavage as 
 themselves, the Sun of Righteousness arose 
 with healing under his wings. Good men, on 
 whom the name of saint (while not used in a 
 superstitious sense) was justly bestowed, to 
 whom life and the pleasures of the world were as 
 nothing, so they could call souls to Christianity) 
 undertook, and succeeded in the perilous task of 
 enlightening these savages. Religion, although 
 it did not at first change the manners of nations 
 waxed old in barbarism, failed not to introduce 
 those institutions on which rest the dignity and 
 happiness of social life. The law of marriage 
 was established among them, and all the 
 brutalising evils of polygamy gave place to the 
 consequences of a union which tends, most di- 
 rectly, to separate the human from the brute 
 species. The abolition of idolatrous cere- 
 monies took away many brutalising practices ; 
 and the gospel, like the grain of mustard-seed, 
 grew and flourished, in noiseless increase, in- 
 sinuating into men's hearts the blessings inse- 
 parable from its influence." Sir Walter Scott's 
 History of Scotland. 
 
 All this has been literally realised in the 
 islands of the South Seas, so far as they have 
 received Christianity. Innumerable proofs of it 
 will appear in the following pages. The former 
 and present circumstances of these minute por- 
 tions of the inhabited globe are not less truly than 
 poetically contrasted by a living writer : 
 
 " Where, ill tin- furthest deserts of UK; deep. 
 
 Tin- c"i. 1 1 \vorin its architecture vast 
 
 Tin-cars, and new -made islands have their birth, 
 
 The Paphiau Venus, driven from the \\e-l, 
 
 In Polynesian groves, Ion;,' iiiidislurli'd, 
 
 Her shameful rites and orgies foul mainl.ain'd; 
 
 The wandering voyager, at Tahiti, found 
 
 Another Daphne. 
 
 On his startled ear, 
 
 What unaccustomed sounds come from those shores, 
 Charming the lone Pacific ? Not the shouts 
 Of war, nor maddening songs of Bacchanals ; 
 But, from the rude Marae, the full-toned Psalm 
 Of Christian praise. A moral miracle ! 
 Tahiti now enjoys the gladdening smile 
 Of Sabbaths. Savage dialects, unheard 
 At Babel, or at Jewish Pentecost, 
 Now first articulate divinest sounds, 
 And swell the universal Amen." 
 
 From the Star in the East, by JOSIAH CONDKR. 
 May 2, 1831. 
 
ON THE TIDES IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 TO JAMES MONTGOMERY, ESQ. 
 
 MY DEAR FRIEND, 
 
 Immediately, after perusing Kotzebue's 
 gross and unfounded attacks on the Missions and 
 Missionaries in the South Seas, particularly at 
 Tahiti ; and, perceiving the inexcusable profes- 
 sional blunders which he has committed in re- 
 gard to the tides on the shores of that island, as 
 well as respecting the position of Pape etc har- 
 bour, and the small island Motu utu, I wrote 
 to several of our oldest and most intelligent 
 Missionaries, desiring that they would transmit 
 to me, by letter, a description of the actual phe- 
 nomena of the tides in Tahiti and the islands 
 adjacent. At the same time I stated to each of 
 them what Mr. Tyerman and myself had re- 
 corded from our three years' daily observation 
 on the subject, namely, that there are always 
 two full and two ebb tides in every twenty-four 
 hours ; that the full tide occurred regularly at 
 twelve o'clock in the day, and again at twelve 
 in the night ; while the ebb tide, in strict cor- 
 respondence, was always at six o'clock in the 
 morning, and again at six o'clock in the even- 
 ing ; moreover, that the tide seldom rose higher 
 than fifteen inches. But, as the accuracy of our 
 testimony had in this country been questioned 
 since my return, I desired them individually to 
 say what they knew to be the actual condition 
 of the tides in Tahiti, &c. 
 
 In June 1834 I received a letter from my 
 much valued friend, our excellent Missionary, 
 Mr. Nott, dated Tahiti, Jan. IH, of that yaV, 
 from which the following is a faithful extract : 
 
 " With respect to your inquiries about the 
 tides, from what I have observed during a long 
 residence here, the rise of the tide is seldom 
 more than a foot or fifteen inches, and tin ;< is 
 no difference between what is called the neap 
 and the spring tides ; or, in other words, then- 
 is no difference in the tides at Tahiti, whether it 
 be the full or change of the moon, half moon, or 
 quarter. There is, however, sometimes a higher 
 sea about the change of the moon, because a 
 change of the wind then frequently (but not 
 always) happens. Nevertheless, this higher sea 
 is not a higher tide, but it is owing to the change 
 of the wind, or some great commotion at a dis- 
 tance, and never lasts more than four or five 
 da\s. during which time the tides continue as 
 usual, namely, high or full tide about noon (or 
 from twelve to one in the daj ) and about twelve 
 at night, and ehh tide about six o'clock in the 
 morning and about the same hour in the even- 
 ing. This is uniformly the time of full and ebb 
 tides at Tihiti. Respecting the tides at the 
 islands to the westward as the Figiis, and 
 Samao (Navigators) islands I believe they rise 
 several feet, but whether the times of high and 
 low water are the same as here I am not pre- 
 pared to say. At the island of Tubuai anil 
 Ilaivavai the tide is much greater than at Ta- 
 hiti, rising about two feet, and a half." 
 
 The following is also a faithful extract from a 
 
 letter of our excellent Missionary, the llev. 
 John Davis, many years resident in Tahiti, 
 dated Papara (west side of Tahiti), Jan. 'l'^, 
 1834 ; received also on June 23rd, 1 
 
 " You inquire about the tides, &c. I have 
 not much to say on the subject; yet, having 
 observed that the common theory about the in- 
 fluence of the moon did not apply to these 
 islands, I have at different times at the full and 
 change of the moon, the quarter, and the whole 
 of the lunar month, observed and marked the 
 rise and fall of the sea on our shores (of Tahiti), 
 and the result of my observations is, that tin- 
 tide is not perceptibly and regularly governed 
 
 by the age of the moon. There are no oler\- 
 able differences of spring and neap tides; but 
 there is a change every six hours ; at sun-rise 
 or about six o'clock the sea is lowest, and the 
 same about sun-down or six o'clock in the 
 evening. At noon, or ten minutes past twelve, 
 the sea is highest, and the same again at mid- 
 night. "When the sea is not affected b\ wind, 
 the rise or difference between high and low 
 water is from nine to fourteen inches; or, upon 
 an average, about a foot. When it differ;- from 
 this, it seems to me to be caused by the wind, 
 or the position of the shores, as to capes, inlets, 
 &c. There is often an irregularity in 
 quence of the wind retarding or impelling the 
 water on the shores. I am not aware of any 
 material difference besides what 1 have men- 
 tioned in any of these islands, viz. : Tahiti, 
 Eimeo, Maioiti, the Society Islands, raumotu, 
 Tubuai, Ilaivavai; but in the islands far to the 
 west there is. I was in the 1'i-iis in 1MO. 
 I there observed that the tide varied with the 
 age of the moon, and also that it rc^e. very hiirh. 
 < >r<-;iM,,iiaIl\ ;ilso we ha\e seen at Tahiti an 
 uncommon swell and rise of the sea without 
 any wind in our neighbourhood, the wa\es 
 rolling on the shores and rising many feet." 
 
 The following is a copy from a letter of my 
 late e-ti-emed and beloved friend, the la- 
 John Williams, from the South Seas, dated 
 March 1S34, in reply to my questions made to 
 him : 
 
 In answer to your inquiries concernini: the 
 tides in the Tahitian and other islands in the 
 jreat South Pacific, I forward you the following 
 observations: they contain the suK-t 
 information obtained by a long ; 
 you know, in those parts. In the ( 
 and Society groups, comprising the fol! 
 named islands : Tahiti, Eimeo, Sir Charles 
 Sanderson's Islands, Huahine, Haiatea, Tahaa, 
 Borabor.i, and Maioiti, the tides are regular as 
 to the ebb and flow ; also as to the height to 
 which the tide rises, that is, it is imaiiably low 
 water at six o'clock in the morning, high water 
 at twelve o'clock in the day, and low water 
 again at six in tho evening, and a^ain high 
 water at twelve at night. From this surprising 
 regularity, there is little or no deviation from 
 
ON THE TIDES IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 the beginning to the end of the year. The rise 
 and full also are very inconsiderable, averaging 
 from twelve to eighteen inches. The islands 
 (as you, my friend, Avell know) are surrounded 
 by that admirably adapted and invulnerable 
 barrier, which we designate the reef. When 
 strong winds prevail, they throw what is termed 
 a heavy surf over the reef: this occasions a 
 slight additional rise on that part of the shore 
 which may be exposed to its effects. In 
 addition to this, there is another rather sin- 
 gular circumstance connected with the rise 
 of the sea 011 the Tahitian and Georgian is- 
 lands. On the south-west, and as far as the 
 north-west sides of the islands, there are annu- 
 ally what are termed heavy seas, rolling in 
 whether the winds prevail that way or not. 
 These were so destructive to our original settle- 
 ment (that settlement we occupied when you 
 were with us in 1822 and 1823) at Eaiatea, 
 that we were obliged to abandon it ; for no 
 sooner had we got our roads and bridges in 
 good order, than by these ' heavy seas' all the 
 effect of our labour was destroyed. You doubt- 
 less recollect our hmtse ; it was about five feet 
 above the high water mark, and it stood about 
 twenty yards from the beach. One calm night 
 we were awakened about twelve o'clock ; the 
 strong fence in front of the house being driven 
 down with a frightful crash by the violence of 
 the waves ; they dashed also against the house 
 itself, but did no damage except wetting the 
 mats and setting some of the furniture in motion. 
 There are in general from three to five high 
 seas in the season, which are usually of about 
 three days' continuance. These are the only 
 important things I have to mention in answer 
 to your inquiries: 1st. The regularity of the 
 ebb and flow, without being influenced, as in 
 other places, by the moon ; 2nd. The regularity 
 of the rise and fall, and the smnllness of that 
 rise ; 3rd. The annual high seas on the south- 
 west and north-west sides of the islands, while 
 the north, the east, and the south-east are en- 
 tirely free, except when a gale of wind happens 
 to blow from those quarters. 
 
 1 believe in most of the remaining islands 
 the tides are affected by the moon, as in other 
 parts of the world. In the Austral groups 
 about :5.")0 miles to the southward, and in the 
 same parallel of longitude ; in the Hervey 
 Islands group, about, UOO miles south-west of 
 Tahiti, consisting of the islands of Mauti, 
 Matiaro, Atui, Maquaia, Rorotonga, and Aitu- 
 taki, the tides are affected by the moon, and 
 rise above four feet. At the Navigators' Islands 
 and the Figii Islands the tides are as in other [ 
 
 , I'gulated by the moon; so that the phe- 
 nomena of the Tahitian Islands are rendered 
 
 still more remarkable if they exist only there. 
 There are other groups of islands, as the Sand- 
 wich Islands, &c., with which I am unac- 
 quainted, but which you have visited, and which 
 are, I suppose, influenced by the moon," 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Darling, our respected Mis- 
 sionary, who has been long residing at Buiiaauia, 
 (Burder's Point), on the west side of Tahiti, 
 answers my questions respecting the tides there 
 as follows : 
 
 " You are correct in what you say about the 
 tides in these islands ; they are always at the 
 same times high water at mid-day and mid- 
 night low water at six o'clock in the morning, 
 and again at six o'clock in the evening. The 
 natives can always tell when it is midnight, as 
 they have no watches, by going to the sea- 
 shore. This regular state of the tides I have ob- 
 served to be at all places I have visited the 
 same." 
 
 These important and decisive testimonies to 
 the actual phenomena of the tides, as we found 
 them, and as they truly exist, you will please to 
 attach to the introduction of the present cor- 
 rected Edition of our Voyages and Travels. 
 
 I am always, 
 Most faithfully, your attached friend, 
 
 GEORGE BENNET. 
 
 London, Oct. 24, 1840. 
 
 Postscript. Among other inaccuracies of 
 statements, which a professional gentleman 
 ought not to have hazarded, Kotzebue says, 
 vol. i. p. 215, " The plan of Matavai and the 
 bay which bounds it on the north-east, com- 
 pleted by us with the utmost care from trigono- 
 metrical surveys, is attached to this volume, 
 and renders any further description of the coast 
 it embraces unnecessary." Yet has this navi- 
 gator placed Port Pape-ete on the cast side of 
 Point Venus, and close to the latter, where there 
 is no harbour, whereas Pape-ete is actually 
 from eight to nine miles to the westward of 
 Point Venus ; as every one having visited 
 Tahiti knows or ought to know. This blunder 
 is about on a par in contradiction to fact with 
 his assertion, that there is in Matavai Bay but 
 one ebb and one full tide, in twenty-four hours! 
 though every man, woman, and child on the 
 island knows familiarly, that there are two full 
 and two ebb tides, the former at noon and mid- 
 night, the latter at six o'clock in the morning, 
 and aLrain at the same hour in the evening; as is 
 most satisfactorily shown in the foregoing letters 
 from'Missionarics long resident in the various 
 islands. Kot/ebue says, vol. i. p. 125, "Here 
 arc neither ants nor musquitocs." Now there 
 are in Tahiti myriad* of bolh, as well as in all 
 the other Society and Georgian Islands. 
 
TO MY FRIEND, GEORGE BEN NET, ESQ., 
 
 Of Sheffield, on his intended Voyage to Tahi 
 Christianity had been 
 
 Go, take the wings of morn, 
 And Hy beyond the utmost sea ; 
 Thou shalt not feel thyself forlorn, 
 
 Thy God is still with thee ; 
 And where his spirit bids thee dwell, 
 There, and there only, thou art well. 
 
 Forsake thy native land, 
 Kindred, and friends, and pleasant home ; 
 O'er many a rude barbarian strand j 
 
 In exile though thou roam, 
 Walk there with God, and thou shalt find, 
 Double for all thy faith resign'd. 
 
 Launch boldly on the surge, 
 And in a light and fragile bark 
 Thy path through Hood and tempest 
 
 Like Noah in the ark ; 
 Then tread like him, a new world's shore, 
 Thine altar build, and God adore. 
 
 Leave our Jerusalem, 
 
 Jehovah's temple, and bis rest ; 
 Go where no sabbath rose on them, 
 
 Whom pagan gloom oppn 
 Till bright, though late, around their isles, 
 The gospel-dawn awoke in smil.-s. 
 
 Amidst that dawn, from far, 
 Be thine expected presence shown ; 
 Kise on them, like the morning star, 
 
 In irlory not thine own ; 
 And tell them, while they bail the si-lit, 
 \Vlio turn'd ///// darkness into light. 
 
 Point where bis hovering ra\s 
 Already gild their ocean's brim, 
 
 long o'er hea\en and earth to blaze ; 
 
 Direct all e\es to Him 
 The S\m of Righteousness, who 1 
 Mercy and healing on his 
 
 Nor thou disdain to teach " 
 To sa\age hordes celestial truth, 
 To infant tongue* th\ mother's speech, 
 
 Ennobling arts to jouth ; 
 Till warriors Hing their arms aside, 
 O'er bloodless iields the plough to guide. 
 
 i, and other Islands of the South Sea, where 
 recently established. 
 
 Train them, by patient toil, 
 To rule the waves, subdue the ground, 
 Enrich themselves with Nature's spoil, 
 
 With harvest-trophies crown'd, 
 Till coral-reefs, midst desert seas, 
 Become the new Hesperides. 
 
 Thus, then, in peace depart, 
 And angels guide thy footsteps : 
 There is a feeling in the heart 
 
 That will not let thee go : 
 Yet go, thy spirit stays with me ; 
 Yet go, my spirit goes with thcc. 
 
 Though the broad world, between 
 Our feet, conglobe its solid mass; 
 Though lands and oceans intervene, 
 
 Which I must never pass ; 
 Though day and night to thee be chai. 
 
 '.!, and climes estranged: 
 
 Yet one in soul, and one 
 In faith, and hope, and pu. 
 
 - witness in the he;nen, yo:. 
 Forbid thee to forget 
 
 Those from who- :b n tin s, 
 
 When thine his morning-beauty B 
 
 When tropic gloom returns, 
 Mark what new sar> their \ 
 
 .v glares the wolf, the plm-nix bin 
 
 [CM deep. 
 
 The ship of I Ie;-> en the patriarch's dove 
 The emblem of redeeming love.* 
 
 While these em-bant thin. 
 (), think how often v. .k'd, 
 
 ! on the i;! 
 
 Of higher glorifs talk'd, 
 Till our I; ' a kindling r:i}, 
 
 And burn'd within us b\ t! . 
 
 Those hours, i 
 We part, and i 
 AN by are the joys that will not i 
 ;ishingly s\ 
 
 iiely meet 
 In life or death ; farewell till then ! 
 
 JAM 
 Mil-flit- l.l. March M, 1821. 
 
 Tin- I'ro-s ;m.l other SouuVrn I'oii- 
 
 TIIE REV. DANIEL TYERMAX. 
 
 The following Inscription for a Tablet, intended to be placed in the Chapel, where 
 ministered for se\enteen years, at Newport, in the Isle of Wight, pre>ious to hi 
 witli Mr. HiT.nct, on their Missionary \isitation, was written at the request ef^ome M 
 of the late Mr. T\erman's Church ;>.nd Congregation. His last intelligible won!- 
 
 ;iant of Grace !" and, with this hope Ln hfe mind, he died in the capital of x 
 after a brief illness, on the :i(.)th of July, 1828. 
 
 " The covenant of grace" shall stand, 
 
 When heaven and earth dep,:rt ; 
 On this he laid his dying hand 
 And clasp'd it to his heart. 
 
 '_ In a strange land, when sudden death 
 
 Stopt his unrinish'd race, 
 This was the plea of his last breath 
 " The Covenant of Grace !" J. M. 
 

 

xi 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 The Tuscan sails Avith the Missionaries on 
 board, May 2, IS'21 Novelty of Nauti- 
 cal Arrangements Whaler's Anecdote 
 Drop doAvn the Channel Bay of 
 Biscay Colour of the Water Cape 
 Finisterre Luminous Appearances in 
 Ship's Track Charnel House at Ma- 
 deira North-east Trade Wind Suck- 
 ing Fish Cross the Tropic of Cancer 
 Fixing Fishes The Black Whale The 
 Southern Cross Whit Monday A 
 Shark caught Exploit of a Tahitian 
 Crossing the Line Booby-birds Ma- 
 gellan. Clouds Animals of the Deep . 
 Spermaceti Whale -Marine Rainbows 
 The Albatross Thunder, Lightning, 
 and Fiery Meteor A Hard Gale Peo 
 and Egmont Hen Grampus Falkland 
 Islands Porpoises and Penguins The 
 Turpin Staten Island Mr. Tyerman 
 relates a singular passage of his early 
 life "Long-footed" swells of the Ocean 
 Doubling Cape Horn Accident 
 Superstition of Sailors . . . . 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Commemoration of the sailing of the Shi]) 
 Duff, with the first Missionaries to the 
 South Seas Mollymauks Agitated 
 Sea-scene A Storm Imminent Peril 
 and great Deliverance Tropic of Capri- 
 cornThe " Prickly Heat" The Gan- 
 i:et War HaAvk Lunar Influence 
 Dangerous Archipelago A Whale struck 
 The Tropic Bird Planet Venus- 
 Lunar Rainbow Water-spouts Sai- 
 lors' Dreams A Booby-bird taken 
 Retrospective Reflections Indications 
 of Land An unknown Island Resolu- 
 tion, Doubtful, Tuscan, Bernie, Chain, 
 and other Islands Arrival at Tahiti . 9 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Pomarc's Residence Account of a League 
 of Pacification among the Natives 
 Strangers in Tahiti Upuparu's House 
 Cocoa-nut Water Exotic Trees 
 Dress of Natives St. Luke's Gospel 
 transcribed by Pomare Visit to Pape- 
 ete Preparations for the Sabbath Sin- 
 gular Consequence of a Mistake in Cap- 
 tain Wilson's Sea-reckoning First 
 Sabbath at Matavai Prevalence of 
 Infanticide in former times Canoc- 
 
 Faqo 
 
 making Fishing Incident by which 
 the Gospel was carried to Raiatea 
 Horrors of Idolatry Pomare Spiritu- 
 ous Liquors Progress of Christianity at 
 Raivavai Tahitian Supper Tabued 
 
 Trees 16 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Islands which have received Christianity 
 Language of the Natives of the Society 
 Islands Destruction of Idols Domestic 
 Manufactures Presents from the King 
 Hiro, the God of Thieves War-spear 
 Missionaries prepare a Code of Laws 
 Tatooing abandoned Visit toEimeo 
 Strolling Players; Public Service In- 
 troduction to Pomare Interview Avith 
 Christian Church and Congregation 
 Social Meetings for Religious Improve- 
 ment 23 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Project of a Cotton mill Shells, &c.~- 
 Magnificent natural Panorama Night- 
 scene Banns of Marriage Palma 
 Christi and other plants Native Martyrs 
 Great Marae Arabu, chief of Einico 
 Cowries, &c. Roman Catholic Mis- 
 sionary Trials of the first Preachers of 
 the Gospel here Roguery of the Island- 
 ers formerly Their present character 
 contrasted Idolatrous Priests Second 
 Interview with Pomare Tatooing 
 Mosquitoes Return to Tahiti House- 
 keeping Native Manners Barter Trade 30 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Fishing by Torch-light Valley of Matavai 
 Sufferings of first Missionaries Rare 
 Birds Ora Tree, &c. Basaltic Cliffs- 
 Simple Method of producing Fire 
 Traits of Tahitian Character Mode of 
 Living Administration of the Sacra- 
 ment Diseases of the Natives Burial 
 of a Child Proper Names Phosphoric 
 Matches Apprehensions of a Disturb- 
 ance American Ship in Matavai Bay 
 Account of a Plot once formed by Tahi- 
 tians to seize a European Vessel Pro- 
 
 " vidential Preservation of the Lives of 
 Mr. Wilson and Mr. Bennet at Sea 
 The last Battle of the last Native War 38 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Visit to Bunaauia Maubuaa, or the 
 SAvine-OAvner Man punished for Swear- 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 ing Return to Matavai Coral-groves 
 King of Borabora's Solicitude to have a 
 Missionary Eagerness of the People to 
 obtain Books Anecdote of Pomare 
 Visit of Captain Walker Simple Sub- 
 stitute for Bellows Interview with Po- 
 mare Sail to Eimeo Examination of 
 Candidates for Church-fellowship Pub- 
 lic Fast and Prayers for the King 
 Anecdote of Raiatean Affection towards 
 a Missionary Shaving Process Sin- 
 gular Species of Crab Native Gene- 
 rosity Evils resulting from the use of 
 Stills T arc-Plantation The Hoop- 
 Snake A Court of Justice First 
 Burning of Idols 45 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Departure for the Leeward Islands Hua- 
 hine Distinguished Natives Speeches 
 Death of Pomare Grounds on which 
 the Effects produced by Christian Mi-- 
 sions in these Islands have been mis- 
 represented Last Injunctions and 
 Dying Scene of Pomare . . .49 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Native Marriage Missionary Settlement 
 (inflations of Society Interesting Visit 
 and Conversation Shocking Practices 
 of the old Idolaters Strata Coral 
 formations 54 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Manual Occupations of the Natives Plan 
 
 for :m Insurrection Native Carpentry 
 
 The Bread-fruit Tree Aromatic Grass 
 
 -Mountain Prospect The Cocoa-nut 
 
 Tree 58 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Coasting-tour round Huahine Rocking- 
 stone Hurricane by Night Mahabu 
 1 1 jirbour Matara Sea-side Meal 
 Native Sayings Larire Marae Con- 
 verted Priest of Oro Picture of a Party 
 asleep Converted Shark- worshipper 
 A Shark-niarae Accident Bird Value 
 of a Nail G2 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 I.i/.ard-God Motley Dinner Company 
 Traditions Dog-Marae Rock Scenery 
 
 District of Hiro, God of Thieves 
 
 Puerile Prerogative of Areois Cascade 
 
 Fern-leaf Printing Memorial Trees 
 planted Columnar Hock ( 'onifortless 
 Plight of the Coasting Party Curious 
 
 i-ies of Lobster Marae <>{' Taue 
 Idol- 1'Ystival l-Xteusive Lagoon Ex- 
 traordinary Aoa Tree Ko\al 15ur\iiiL, p - 
 place Native Contributions to Mis- 
 sionary Society Gross Notions formerly 
 entertained concerning a Future State 67 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Tempestuous Weather Case of Conscience 
 Rights of Fishery Native Frankness 
 
 Pago 
 
 Tane's Bed Destruction of Tane's 
 Idol Tane's converted Priest Ancient 
 Forum Fortified Eminence Ludicrous 
 Tradition Meteors Offerings to Tane 
 End of the Cruise round Huahine 
 Astronomical Notions of the Islanders 
 Divisions of the Day, &c. Prompt Jus- 
 tice Singular Moth Terms for the 
 Winds Appointment of Deacons in the 
 Church Visit to Tiramano Exotic 
 and Naturalised Vegetables . . .74 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 A Feeding Warning Discourse against 
 Apostacy A Native Hog a rare Ani- 
 mal now A Singular Fish Handi- 
 crafts Tahitian Language and Figures 
 of Speech Sugar-cane Crop Dauntless, 
 Ship of War Questions proposed for 
 consideration Co-operation in House- 
 huilding Presents to Deputation Mr. 
 Tycrman and Mr. Ellis sail for Borabora 
 A Shark captured Placid Beaut \ 
 111,. Sea Arrived at Borahora V 
 sionary Station Influence of Conjurors 
 
 Visit to two English Vessels Open- 
 ing of a new Chapel . . . .81 
 
 CHAPTER X \ . 
 
 Arcois, or Vagabonds Custom of despatch- 
 ing Infirm Persons Method of Nego- 
 eiiitiiiLr respecting Peace or War 1 
 tastie Superstitions Maniages of I'!, 
 in former times Conversation-mectim; 
 Messrs. Kllis and T\ennan return 
 Huahine Native Numeration Bap- 
 tism administered Indigenous Diseases 
 Animals, aboriginal and naturalised 86 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Two Vessels in the Offing Tarouarii 
 Projected Visit to the Marquesas Islands 
 Auna, Matatore, and their Wives, set 
 apart sis native Missionaries to the Mar- 
 quesas Birth of Tarouarii's Daughter 
 Two brigs Embarkation for the Mar- 
 quesas Amphibious dexterity of the 
 1 -landers Nocturnal amenity of th> x 
 Cock-roaches Towaihae Bay, Sand- 
 wich Islands Motley appearance of 
 Natives 93 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Landing at the Point where Captain Cook 
 M:IS killed Native Huts The Hattle- 
 stick Performer Incidental Notices 
 Entertainment by American Captains 
 Coast Population Mr. Young Idol- 
 
 j,"atry abolished in the Sandwich Islands 
 in 1819 Intoxication and Smoking 
 Native Amusements Salt-works Li- 
 centiousness Irregularity of Seasons 
 f Providential Deliverance from the up- 
 s.-ttin- of a AVhale-lx.at Want of Water 
 
 Sterility of the Land Animals 
 Cooking Canoes Various Sandwich 
 Notices Landing at Oahu Introduc- 
 
CONTENTS. xiii 
 
 Page 
 
 Page 
 
 tion to Klhoriho, King of the Islands, 
 
 Royal Family learning to read Anec- 
 
 and his Court American Missionaries 99 
 
 dote Juvenile Teachers First Chris- 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 tian Marriage in the Sandwich Islands 
 
 Extracts from an Official Letter of Messrs. 
 
 Injunction against drinking ardent 
 Spirits Kamschatka Sledge Watch 
 
 Tyerman and Bennet, addressed, to the 
 Directors of the London Missionary 
 
 seal presented to Rihoriho Deputation 
 leave Oahu Letter from Rihoriho to 
 
 Society, from the Sandwich Islands 105 
 
 George IV. Extracts from Auna's 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Journal in Hawaii . . . .125 
 
 Food of the Natives of the Sandwich 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Islands Card-party The five Queens 
 
 Distressing Weather at Sea Nocturnal 
 
 M. Manine's Gardens Dram Shops 
 A Sorcerer Sandal-wood Candle-nut 
 
 Beauty of the Heavens Voracity of a 
 Shark A Coral Island Sperm Whales 
 
 Strings Conversations of Auna and his 
 
 Woman dies oil Board Burial at Sea 
 
 Wife with the Natives of Oahu Tau- 
 muarii, king of Tauai Town of Hono- 
 
 Arrival at Rurutu Reception by Na- 
 tives Chapel Coral formations A 
 
 ruru Murderous Practices of the Shark- 
 worshippers Yellow Fever Cannibal- 
 ism A rich Negro Resident Excur- 
 
 Village Ingenuity of the Inhabitants 
 Missionary Addresses Adventures of a 
 Chief at Sea Introduction of the Gos- 
 
 sions among the Mountains Method of 
 
 pel in Rurutu Extracts from Mission- 
 
 carrying Burthens Volcanic Crater 
 Distillery Traditions Animals . . 107 
 
 ary Letters Idols exposed to contempt 
 Raiatean Missionaries Speeches by 
 
 O TT A "OfT 1 1? T> "V "V" 
 
 Natives 128 
 
 LnAJr I.L.K. A.A. 
 
 Captain Kent presents the Schooner to 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Rihoriho, in the name of his Britannic 
 
 Return to Huahine Native Missionary Se- 
 
 Majesty Anecdotes of Cruelty Mr. 
 
 minaries Deputation proceed to Raia-' 
 
 Iluggles, the American Missionary 
 
 tea Conference Ribbons of Bark A 
 
 Conversation with the King Tabued 
 
 Borabora Convert Dungeons for Crimi- 
 
 Sugar-plantation Rainbows Anniver- 
 
 nals Tobacco, Sugar, and Salt prepared 
 
 sary of Rihoriho's Accession Circum- 
 
 Tamatoa, King of Raiatea Trial and 
 
 stances which tended to the spontaneous 
 
 Punishment for Tatooing Yoke-fellows 
 
 Overthrow of Idolatry, before Christian 
 Missionaries had arrived in the Sand- 
 
 Pic-nic Parties Superstitious Respect 
 for a Scallop-shell Raiatean Mythology 
 
 wich Islands Royal Dinner Native 
 Houses Proposition from the Chiefs to 
 
 King formerly worshipped Feat of 
 Juggling Traditions Investiture of 
 
 receive Missionaries from the London 
 
 the Kings Local Falls of Rain . .135 
 
 Society Bravery of some of the old 
 Chiefs Child-murder Felling of Trees 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 to make Idols Want of Parental 
 
 Visit to Opoa, the chief Seat of ancient 
 
 Authority Foolish Etiquette of the 
 
 Idolatry Public Festival Singular 
 
 former King 113 
 
 Appearance of the Feasters Speeches 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 Tea-drinking Breaking up of the 
 Company Expulsion of an Idolater 
 
 District of Waerua Ava-plantations 
 
 from the Church Ingenious Scruple 
 
 Arbitrary Power of the Chiefs Tax- 
 
 Den of the Evil Spirit Strata Crea- 
 
 natherer's Memorandum-cord Singular 
 
 tures of the Sea Romantic Tradition 
 
 Pile of Coral Arrival at Waerua 
 
 Confessions of Infanticide Marriage of 
 
 Printing Flowers on native Cloth 
 
 Aimata and Pomare of Huahine Con- 
 
 Way-side Idols Honoruru Shampoo- 
 
 fessions of a Sorcerer One Hundred 
 
 ing Queen at her Lesson A Salt-lake 
 
 and Fifty-one Persons baptized . .139 
 
 Interview with Rihoriho Mortality 
 among Fishes A clever Woman 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 Trade with the Sandwich Islanders 
 
 Deputation arrive at Tahaa Appearance 
 
 Evil Effects of ardent Spirits De- 
 
 of the Natives Public Religious Ser- 
 
 pravity of native Children Pilfering 
 
 vices An Ex-high priest Battle and 
 
 Two Men devoured by Sharks Anni- 
 
 Reconciliation between Fenuapeho and 
 
 versary of American Independence 
 
 Tamatoa An old Custom Description 
 
 Royal Repast Good News from Nuka- 
 
 of Tahaa Extraordinary Rock Reli- 
 
 hiva Thomas Hopoo Rumour of pro- 
 
 gious Address by the King Equality of 
 
 jected American Aggression Flies an 
 
 Justice Marriage in former times 
 
 Abomination to the Natives Dream of 
 
 Remarkable Coral-reef Coast-indenta- 
 
 Keramioku Proposal that all the Peo- 
 
 tions Motus Ants Large Draught of 
 
 ple should be taught to read and write 118 
 
 Fishes Thievish Instinct of Hogs 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 Baptism of One hundred and ninety- 
 eight Persons Proper Names Punish- 
 
 The King and Chiefs attend Divine Service 
 
 ment for scandalous Crimes . . . 144 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 Page 
 
 Arrival at Borabora Appearance of Native 
 Congregation Congratulatory Addresses 
 and Presents Marriages Island of 
 Maupiti Reflections on its Loneliness 
 The Deputation welcomed Savage Prac- 
 tices of the People of Maupiti in former 
 times Effects of Infanticide Ninety 
 Persons baptized Deserted Maraes 
 Missionary Collection Return to Bora- 
 bora Estimation of the Scriptures 
 Rogues and Vagabonds Execution of a 
 Criminal Missionary Meeting Laws 
 revised Prisoners' Sentences commuted 
 Fortifications 148 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 Return to Raiatea Singular Water-spout 
 Mr. and Mrs. Chamberlain Dreadful 
 Narrative of Captain Pollard News 
 from the Sandwich Islands Raiatean 
 Tradition First Overthrow of Idolatry 
 in Raiatea Land Crabs Departure for 
 Huahine Missionary Meeting held, and 
 the Code of Laws settled . . . 153 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 Embarkation for Tahiti Captain Duperre 
 in Matavai Bay Tomb of Pomare 
 Three Thousand Persons attend Divine 
 Service at oner Missionary Meeting- 
 First Stone of Chapel laid at Pape-cte 
 Feast on that Occasion Rites formerly 
 used on laying the Foundat ion-stones of 
 Maraes and Royal Residences Unset- 
 tled State of the Government of Tahiti 
 Houses tabued AnEarthquake Names 
 fend Abode of first Native Converts 
 Punishment lor drinking Ava Captain 
 Riggs His Escape Ferocity of Marquc- 
 saus ....... 157 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 Russian Captain Lazaroff Decision on a 
 (liHicult 1'oint of Tahitian Law Inij 
 tures of ancient Priests Basaltic For- 
 mation Mountain-peak of Arofena 
 Magnificent Scenery Valley of Arofena 
 A perilous Feat Visit to Papara 
 Presents of Native Articles The Fara- 
 trec Opening of a Chapel Fare na 
 Atua, or House of a God Rugged Ways 
 into the Interior of Tahiti A Mountain 
 Lake 161 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 The Deputation at Eimco A Cow Slaugh- 
 tered there Roby's Place Style of 
 Ancient Kings Meridian Rainbow 
 Old Superstitions The Deputation sail 
 for the Pearl Islands Chapel at Raivavai 
 Taro-grounds Chapel opened Inter- 
 change of Presents Visit to Tubuai 
 Gospel introduced at Tubuai Difficul- 
 ties about the Sabbath . . 165 
 
 Page 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 Voyage to the Pearl Islands postponed, and 
 the Deputation return to Eimeo and 
 Tahiti Parliament of the Windward 
 Islands Discussion and Adoption of the 
 revised Code of Laws Russian Ships 
 under Captain Kotzebue visit Tahiti 
 Transportation of a House Coronation 
 of the young King Pomare III. . . 168 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 The Deputation take a final Leave of Tahiti, 
 and proceed by Eimeo for New South 
 Wales, touching at Huahine, Tahaa, and 
 Raiatea Anecdotes, and a remarkable 
 Native Prophecy Tides in the Pacitic 
 Ocean An odd Incident in Fishing 
 A perilous Adventure Borabora Sum- 
 mary of Observations on the State of the 
 Missions in the South Sea Islands, by the 
 Deputation 173 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 A Dead Calm The Harvey Islands Two 
 Native Missionaries left there Tlu-ir 
 Labours and Success The Deputa- 
 tion land at Atui Christianity on that 
 Island- -Extraordinary 1'ieM-rvation of 
 five Christian Natives Karotonga- 
 flectioiis Affecting Account of OH and 
 Mydo, the two first Converts to Christi- 
 anity fromthe South Sea Islands Sailing 
 on the Great South Sea K- uch Wanga- 
 roa Bay, New Zealand . . . .177 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 Coast-scenery of New Zealand Approach 
 and Appearance of the Natives Their 
 Canoes Their ferocious Conduct, and 
 the perilous Situation of the Deputation 
 and the Crow, while the Ship was in 
 Possession of the Savages Delmr 
 from Captivity and Death by the Chief 
 George, and the \Ve>le\an M 
 Mr. White Visit to lh' 
 lion Remarkable Cure of a 
 
 Native, with his own Description of it 
 Sail from Wan^aroa Bay Anchor in 
 Sydney Cove, New Holland . . . M 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 Town of Sydney Comfort Interchange 
 of Kindness with good Men British 
 Convicts Visit to Parramatta Jojful 
 Feelings on the reception and perusal of 
 many Letters from friends in England 
 Sir Thomas Brisbane Factory for 
 Female Convicts Mr. Cunningham, the 
 Botanist Nettle-tree Native Popula- 
 tion of New Holland Excursion from 
 Parramatta Black Ants Wild Native 
 Animals Orphan School Kissing Point 
 Conversion of the New Hollanders 
 Methods of Civilization Customs and 
 Habits of the Natives their Deaths and 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 Marriages, Sagacity, Indolence, Ceremo- 
 nies, and Traditions .... 185 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 Visit to Parramatta Sir Thomas Brisbane 
 Barbarous Remark of a Settler respect- 
 ing the Aborigines Methodist Mission- 
 ary Meeting Note from Major Ovens 
 Effects of Rain on Vegetation Large 
 Serpents Opossum Tribe Native Dogs 
 Kangaroos Pelicans, Cranes, Black 
 Swans, &c. Notices of the Aborigines 
 A Missionary Station among them deter- 
 mined upon Mode of Punishing a Mur- 
 derer by the Natives Interview with 
 Wesleyan Missionaries Further Notices 
 of the Aborigines Sunday Schools at 
 Parramatta Macquarrie Anniversary 
 Missionary Stations examined Charac- 
 teristic Traits of the Natives Reed'a 
 Mistake, a Colonial Station A Receiver 
 of Stolen Goods Two Classes of Colon- 
 ists The Rev. Mr. Sheppard, from New 
 /caland Arrival of Captain Kent New 
 /aland Flax Curious Superstitions and 
 Practices of New Hollanders Arrival of 
 the Brutus from the Society Isles Nar- 
 row Escape of some of that Ship's Com- 
 pany at the Friendly Islands Anecdote 
 of horrible Cruelty Execution of Mur- 
 derers, &c. Mission to the Aborigines 
 Embarkation for Batavia . . . 189 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 
 Torres Straits Death of a Sailor at Sea 
 Bay of Batavia Mr. Medhurst, Mis- 
 sionary in Java Chinese in Batavia 
 Malays Hospital Visit to the Dutch 
 Governor of Java Appearance of the 
 Country Village of Braitenzorg Pre- 
 mises and Hospitality of the Governor 
 Picture of Buonaparte Christian Village 
 Journey to Samaraiiir A Javanese 
 Prince Suspension and floating Bridges 
 Volcanic Mountains Tiger-traps Ce- 
 meteries Marvellous Story Revellers 
 Method of frightening Birds from Rice- 
 fields Buffaloes Mr. Bruckner, Bap- 
 tist Missionary Chinese Temple and 
 Priests Visit to Solo A Grandee . 197 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 Arrival at Solo Description of that City 
 Enormous Cannon Emperor going to 
 the Mosque Deputation introduced to 
 the Emperor Ceremonies and Amuse- 
 ments in the Palace Sumptuous Repast 
 "God save the King" Reflections 
 Samarang A Cavern A Grotto 
 Cheangor Upas Tree Return to Bata- 
 via An Incident Mr. Deering Coffin 
 Dealers Javanese New Testament 
 Chinese School Origin and Progress of 
 an Insurrection Idol Temple Mahom- 
 medan Superstition Chinese Block- 
 printing Rice-food Chinese Festival 
 
 Page 
 
 A peculiar Village The Javanese and 
 their Masters English highly esteemed 
 Feeble Effects of Religion in Java 
 Tradition respecting Budhu . . . 203 
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 
 Passage to Singapore Circumstances of 
 that Place Hinderances to the Gospel 
 Preparation of Sago The Camphor- 
 dealer Ludicrous Mistake of a China-lad 
 Mission-ground U ndeciphei able In- 
 scription Voyage to Macao Lord's Day 
 Appearance of the Island Chinese 
 Pagoda Statistical Notices Idol-wor- 
 shippers Cave of Camoens Ancient, 
 Nunnery Crippled Feet of Chinese 
 Ladies Portuguese Catholics Tea- 
 plantations 210 
 
 CHAPTER XLI. 
 
 Deputation sail to Canton Chinese Drama- 
 tic Exhibition Music Deputation Visit 
 the Governor Description of the Sub- 
 urbs of Canton Hong Merchants City 
 Wall Trades and Shops Cracker-cages 
 Beggars A Tea-house Population of 
 Canton British Factory Edible Birds' 
 Nests Bad Food of the Poor Chop- 
 sticks Idol-worship Ancient Temple 
 Sacred Swine A Hong Merchant 
 Wampoa The Three Forts Contriv- 
 ances on the River Magnificent Enter- 
 tainment A Chinese Bride . . . 214 
 
 CHAPTER XLII. 
 
 Another Hong Merchant's Hospitality 
 Dancing Taking Leave of a Friend 
 Marriage-procession Smugglers of Opi- 
 um Christmas Day Deputation return 
 to Singapore Clanship and, Inhumanity 
 of the Chinese Deputation proceed to 
 Malacca Description of that Town 
 Extraordinary Tree Pepper-plantations 
 Schools in Malacca Chinese Foppe- 
 ries Proficiency of Native Scholars 
 Foundation of a Chapel laid Tomb of 
 Dr. Milne Process of Extracting Toddy 
 Land-crabs, Frogs, and Alligators 
 Arrival at Pinang Sabbath Exercises 
 Fantastic Marriage-procession Popish 
 Mission College Singular Paintings A 
 deposed King The Great Tree Mon- 
 keys and Birds Sensitive Plant Dress 
 and Habitation of the Malays Personal 
 Habits Musical Cricket Ingenious 
 Spider 219 
 
 CHAPTER XLIH. 
 
 Voyage to Calcutta Enter the River 
 Hooghly Approach to the City The 
 Rev. James Hill Visiting various Places 
 Archdeacon Corrie Female Orphan 
 School The Black Town Fort Wil- 
 liam Museum of the Asiatic Society 
 Town Hall Visit to the Episcopal Clergy 
 The Palanquin Ilamohun Roy In- 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 tensity of the Heat Bishop's College 
 Botanical Garden Banyan-trees -Visit 
 to Serampore Dr. Carey and his Col- 
 leagues A Temple of Juggernaut Ma- 
 hommedan Mosque Baptist College 
 Return to Calcutta Bridal Pageant 
 Bullocks Mr. Trawin, at Kidderpore 
 Dancing Serpents Docility and Sagacity 
 of Elephants Kali . . . .220 
 
 CHAPTER XLIV. 
 
 Sailing up the Hooghly Buffaloes crossing 
 the River Milkmen on the Ganges- 
 Evening Sights and Sounds Strong Cur- 
 rent River-scenery Shocking Specta- 
 cle Burning of a Hindoo Corpse A 
 Yogee or Hindoo Saint A Funeral by- 
 Water Benares Allahabad Volun- 
 tary Drownings Baboon-worship Sub- 
 terranean Temple Barbers and Bathers 
 
 Superb Mahommedan Procession 
 Privileged M o 1 1 k i \ s N ati ve Termagants 
 
 Fashions at Benares .... 233 
 
 CHAPTER XLV. 
 
 Departure from Benares Farm-establish- 
 ment Monument at Patna Boat 
 swamped Hot Springs near Monghir 
 Singular Superstition An Entertain- 
 ment Worship of Working-tools Rid- 
 ing on Elephants Sagacity of those Ani- 
 mals Hindoo and Mahtmiinrtlau Oaths 
 Indifference of Criminals to the Sen- 
 tences passed on them Infanticide A 
 great Piece of Ordnance The Adjutant- 
 crane Festival of Doorga The Bull- 
 god Tongue-boring Worship of a black 
 Stone 240 
 
 CHAPTER XL VI. 
 
 Deputation sail for Madras Arrival at 
 Vi/aLrapatam Dr. Bell's School-system 
 Madras Sir Thomas Monroe C howl- 
 tries, or Caravanseras Arcot Punga- 
 lore Palanquin-bearers G uramconda 
 Tigers Arrival at Cuddapah Hindoo 
 Villany Festival of Cama, at Bellary 
 Ruins of Bijanaghur The Cow and 
 the Tiger New-year Festival at Gud- 
 diick Village Fortresses Whirlwind at 
 C'liittoor Christian Natives at Bclgaum 
 Bathing of Buffaloes Ants Indian 
 Gipsies 245 
 
 CHAPTER XLV 11. 
 
 Arrival at Goa Condition of Inhabitants 
 Buildings of the Inquisition Visit to 
 the Dungeons, &c. Roman Catholics in 
 India Visit Canuonmore Lion-ant 
 An Anecdote Vengeance of an Elephant 
 
 Destruction of Tigers Pendulous 
 Bees' -nests Fish fed b'y tin- Hand Ar- 
 rival at Mysore Royal Elephant-carriage 
 Pagoda Animal-fights Colossal Bull- 
 image Seringapatam U himsieal M is- 
 take Ants' Nests Chameleon Nil- 
 
 gherry Mountains Boa Constrictor 
 Scarecrows Civet-Cats Cape Comorin 
 Right and Left-hand Castes Hindoo 
 Covetousness Quilon Travancore, 
 Madras 251 
 
 CHAPTER XL VI II. 
 
 Abstract of the Farewell letter of the Depu- 
 tation to the Missionaries on the various 
 Stations of the Society in India . . 201 
 
 CHAPTER XLIX. 
 
 Embarkation for the Mauritius, or Isle of 
 France Arrival at Port Louis Deliber- 
 ations about visiting Madagascar Town, 
 College, Churches, &c. of Port Louis 
 State of Society Slavery M. Perille 
 Anecdotes of Slaves Dreadful Hurri- 
 cane Information respecting Madagas- 
 car Examples of Barbarous Usages and 
 Despotic Cruelties .... 205 
 
 CHAPTER L. 
 
 Further Information respecting Madaga- 
 the late Mr. Hastie, British Agent at 
 Tananarive Customs in Madagascar on 
 the Death of a Native Tribute to the 
 King Royal Exhortation in favour of 
 Husbandry Punishment of Offenders 
 Sumptuary Laws Cleanliness Burying 
 Valuables with the Dead Child-murder 
 Singular Release of Prisoners Ratnti'r 
 Charms, or Amulets Barbarous Or- 
 deal Expedition of King Radama 
 King's Army Peculiar Burial-sen-ice 
 Spirituous Liquor Band of Robbers at- 
 tacked Moderation of Radama North- 
 ern part of Madagascar Preserved Skulls 
 Favour shown to British Ships Cha- 
 racteristic Dialogue Mode of catching 
 Fish Alligators Monkeys The word 
 Vahing Large Bamboos Wild Bulls 
 Prayer of an aged Chieftain for Succes- 
 an Enterprise Vampire-Bats Wild 
 Boars Native Greetings Domestic 
 Animals Grain cultivated Malagaue 
 Women Notices of the Country Con- 
 duct of the King during an Expedition . 'JT" 
 
 CHAPTER LI. 
 
 ABullock-ship arrives at the Mauritius The 
 Deputation sail for Madagascar Arriveat 
 Tamatave Proceed towards Tananarive 
 Various Circumstances and Incidents 
 by the way Fortified Villages Tombs 
 Arrival and Reception at the Capital 
 Death of the Rev. Daniel Tycrman 
 Death of the King of Madagascar Mis- 
 sionaries' Letter to Mr. Bennet . . ~~ s 
 
 CHAPTER LII. 
 
 Funeral of King Radama Abstract of a 
 Letter from Mr. Bennet, the surviving 
 Deputy, to James Montgomery, givii 
 brief Account of his Proceedings mat 
 the Death of Mr. Tyerman His return 
 to the Mauritius His Visit to South 
 Africa and his Voyage Home 
 
xvi 
 
 LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 Frontispiece. Portrait of the Rev. Daniel 
 Tyertnan. 
 
 Portrait of George Bennet, Esq xi 
 
 PLATE I. 
 
 Missionary Settlement in the Harbour of 
 Papetoai, on the North side of the Is- 
 land of Eimeo. Cotton Factory on the 
 left ; on the right the Houses of the two 
 Missionary Artisans, Messrs. Blossom 
 and Armitage. The Trees are the Pan- 
 danus, Cocoa-nut, and Banana 27 
 
 PLATE II. 
 
 Fare Harbour, in the Island of Huahine. 
 The Chapel is seen in the centre, near 
 the sea; the Mission-house on the right; 
 the House of Mahine near the sea, on 
 the left 50 
 
 PLATE III. 
 
 Beulah Missionary Settlement in the Is- 
 land of Borabora, on the North-west side. 
 In the centre is the Chapel, the Mis- 
 sion-house on the left. The Pier is 
 formed of coral-rock 84 
 
 PLATE IV. 
 
 Towaihae Bay, in the Island of Hawaii, 
 on the North-west. The Mountains are 
 Mouna Koa, Mouna Roa, and Mouna 
 Huararui: they are covered with per- 
 petual snow. 97 
 
 PLATE V. 
 
 City of David Missionary Settlement in 
 the Island of Raiatea. The Chapel is 
 seen above the mast of the canoe; the 
 M ission-house near the centre ; on the 
 highest hill on the left is the Po, or Ha- 
 des of this and of all the other islands. 
 The white surf marks the situation of 
 the coral-rocks 135 
 
 PLATE VI. 
 
 Opoa, the former Seat of Government and 
 of Idolatry in the Island of Raiatea. 
 In the centre is the Ficus Racemosa, a 
 spcries of Indian fig. The House of 
 Tamatoa near the sea 139 
 
 PLATE VII. 
 Water-spouts seen from Raiatea. Island of 
 
 Borabora in the distance ; Tahaa on the 
 right 154 
 
 PLATE VIII. 
 
 Missionary House at Buanaauia, or Bur- 
 der's Point, in the Island of Tahiti. 
 The large Tree on the left, the Vii or 
 Brazilian Plum the Spondias Dulcis of 
 Parkinson ; on the right the Bread-fruit 
 Tree; in the centre the Cocoa-nut, the 
 Banana, and Pandanus-palm ; Arofena, 
 the central mountain, rises above. . . . 162 
 
 163 
 
 PLATE IX. 
 
 Missionary Settlement at Buanaauia, or 
 Burder's Point, in the Island of Tahiti. 
 
 PLATE X. 
 
 Scene at the Head of Fare Harbour, in the 
 Island of Huahine, taken from the back 
 of the Chapel, looking inland.- The tall 
 Trees are Cocoa-nuts ; in the centre is 
 the Bread-fruit Tree ; and in the fore- 
 ground, on the right, the Pandanus Odo- 
 ratissimus, or Prickly Palm 173 
 
 PLATE XI. 
 
 Wesleyan Mission Station, as seen June, 
 1824, in Wesley Dale, in the Harbour of 
 New Zealand 184 
 
 PLATE XII. 
 
 Hindoo Temple, upon the Fakeer Rocks, 
 on the Ganges. The Pinnace, in which 
 the Deputation sailed, is seen in the 
 centre 229 
 
 LIST OF WOOD ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 Eimeo 21 
 
 Pomare's Idols 24 
 
 Portrait of Porn are 29 
 
 The Bread-fruit 59 
 
 Warrior of Nukahiva 124 
 
 New School-house at Rarotonga .... 179 
 
 Chinese School 221 
 
 Chapel at Pinang 223 
 
 Palanquin 228 
 
 Mahomedan Mosque 231 
 
 Hindoo Idol 241 
 
 Boa Constrictor 257 
 
JOURNAL. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 The Tuscan sails with the Missionaries on board, May 2, 
 1821 Novelty of Nautical Arrangements Whaler's 
 Anecdote Drop down the Channel Bay of Biscay 
 Colour of the Water Cape Finisterre Luminous 
 Appearances in Ship's Track Charnel House at Ma- 
 deiraNorth-east Trade Wind Sucking Fish Cross 
 the Tropic of Cancer Flying Fishes The Black 
 Whale The Southern Cross Whit Monday A Shark 
 caught Exploit of a Tahitian Crossing the Line 
 Booby-birdsMagellan Clouds Animals of the Deep 
 Spermaceti Whale Marine Rainbows The Al- 
 batross Thunder, Lightning, and Fiery Meteor A 
 Hard Gale Peo and Egmont Hen Grampus Falk- 
 land Islands Porpoises and Penguins The Turpin 
 Staten Island Mr. Tyerman relates a Angular passage 
 of his early lite" Long-footed" swells of the Ocean- 
 Doubling Cape Horn Accident Superstition of Sailors. 
 
 THE Tuscan, a South Sea Whaler, of about 360 
 tons burthen, commanded by Captain Francis 
 Stavers, was provided to convey us on our voy- 
 age to the islands of the Pacific Ocean. To 
 Alexander Birnie, Esq., the Society which we 
 represented was indebted for the grant of a free 
 passage, not only to ourselves, but also to the 
 Mr. Jones, a missionary to the Georgian 
 Isles his wife Messrs. Armitage and Blossom, 
 artisans their wives and two children be- 
 longing to Mr. Armitage. This act of noble 
 liberality, on the part of the proprietor of the 
 vessel, will ever be recollected by the directors 
 and representatives of the London Missionary 
 Society with peculiar gratitude. The ship's 
 crew consisted of thirty-five young and healthy 
 men and boys, including a first, second, and 
 third mate. Besides these, there was a surgeon 
 on board, and a native of Tahiti, about twenty- 
 five years of age, who had been baptized by a 
 missionary in that island, and received the name 
 of Robert. 
 
 All things having been prepared for our long 
 and interesting voyage, the ship sailed from 
 London to Graveseiid, on Wednesday, the 2d of 
 May, 1821. On Saturday, the 5th, having 
 parted with many friends and ministers who 
 accompanied us to the latter place, we went 
 on board ; the anchor was weighed, and the 
 weather being favourable we dropt down the 
 river, five or six miles, when we came to anchor 
 again to wait for the next tide. On this evening 
 after social worship, in which we committed 
 ourselves and each other to Him whose we are, 
 and whom we wish to serve, we retired to rest 
 for the first time on board, under circumstances 
 which called for humble gratitude and heartiest 
 praise ; goodness and mercy surrounding us on 
 every side. 
 
 M ay 6. (Lord's day.) This forenoon we had 
 divine service in the cabin. The forty-third 
 chapter of Isaiah was read ; and Mr. Tyerman 
 preached from our Lord's last words : " Lo, I 
 am with you alway, even to the end of the 
 world." Matt, xxviii. 20. In the afternoon, 
 notwithstanding the hurry and uproar above 
 from tacking, &c., we had the privilege according 
 
 to our Saviour's appointment, to eat bread and 
 drink wine together, in memory of his death ; 
 and we trust that we had fellowship in that hour 
 with all our Christian friends elsewhere who 
 were then observing the same blessed ordinance 
 or, like our female companions, (from sickness 
 in their case,) providentially detained from the 
 table of our common Master. 
 
 May 7. We proceeded to the Downs, where 
 we anchored. This evening we enjoyed the 
 pleasure of uniting in spirit, at a missionary 
 prayer-meeting, with the thousands of our 
 Israel, who, in different parts of the earth, at 
 the same time (on the first Monday in the 
 month) offer their fervent supplications for the 
 universal prevalence of that glorious gospel 
 which brings life and immortality to light. 
 
 May 8. Yesterday and to-day we have been 
 busily occupied in arranging our packages in 
 our berths and the cabin, so that those things 
 which would oftenest be wanted might always 
 be nearest at hand. Much and grievous incon- 
 venience is frequently suffered by passengers 
 from lack of a little foresight and good manage- 
 ment in this respect. Being ourselves almost 
 new to the sea, the effect of everything on board 
 was strange to us. The grunting of the swine, 
 the bleating of the sheep and goats, the clamour 
 of the ducks, the cackling and crowing of the 
 fowls, but, above all, the appearance, activity, 
 and language of the sailors, could not fail to 
 amuse us. The manner of heaving the lead to 
 sound the depth of the water, (a frequent pro- 
 cess at this commencement of our navigation,) 
 particularly struck us. But the following in- 
 cident maybe more intelligible than a description 
 of a nautical ceremony. " Cook," says the 
 steward, " milk the goat." The cook proceeds 
 to the operation : ordering one of the boys to 
 hold the animal's horns, and resting the under 
 part of his own thigh on the calf of his opposite 
 leg, he adroitly places a hind-leg of the goat 
 between these, and proceeds to discharge his 
 duty with inflexible composure, while the poor 
 kid stands by, with piteous looks, beholding the 
 beverage provided for its sustenance thus reck- 
 lessly taken away. 
 
 May 10. The wind being strong, but contrary, 
 we have hitherto made slow progress. To-day 
 we had fine views of Hastings, and Seaford, and 
 other places near shore. Conversing with the 
 captain, who has been for many years engaged 
 in the whale fishery, he related the following 
 circumstance. Being once pursued by a whale, 
 which he had wounded, he parried the assault 
 for some time with a lance ; but the furious 
 monster at length rushed on the boat, and with 
 one crash of its jaws bit it in two ; himself and 
 his comrades only being preserved by leaping 
 into the water when they saw the onset was inevi- 
 table. They were rescued from their peril by 
 other boats at hand. He observed, that the 
 
WHALER'S ANECDOTE CHARNEL-HOUSE AT MADEIRA. 
 
 black whale of the North Seas discovers such 
 affection for her young one, that when she per- 
 ceives danger, she takes it under one of her tins, 
 and swims off with it. If the latter be struck, 
 the clam never leaves it, but risks her own life 
 to save that of her calf. On the contrary, the 
 sperm whale of the South Se'as will suffer her 
 offspring to be taken without manifesting any 
 concern, and providing only for her own safety ; 
 or occasionally, when escape is difficult, turning 
 as in the instance above mentioned, with the 
 most savage ferocity on her pursuers. Our 
 captain's father lost his life in attacking one of 
 these formidable monsters. 
 
 May 12. This day we reached Portsmouth, 
 when, the wind being contrary, we went on 
 shore, and thence passed over to Newport, 
 Isle of Wight, where we were cordially wel- 
 comed and entertained by Mr. Tyerman's 
 friends, to whom his sudden re-appearance was 
 equally unexpected and delightful. 
 
 May 19. The wind having become fair we 
 went on board ^again this morning, and pro- 
 ceeded with great rapidity down the English 
 Channel, presenting a great press of sail to a 
 powerful and prosperous breeze. 
 
 May 20. (Lord's day.) This morning we 
 had public worship, for the first time, on deck ; 
 the captain, officers, and crew, being all in 
 attendance. Mr. Tyerman preached from 
 Psalm cvii. 23, 2-i : " They that go down to the 
 sea in ships, find do business in great w:it< TS 
 these sec th- works of the Lord, and his 
 wonders in the deep." Mr. Jones preached on 
 deck in the afternoon. 
 
 May 22. We have this day passed into the 
 Atlantic, crossing the mouth of the Bay of 
 Biscay. Early in the morning we had a strong 
 gale, and proceeded, amidst prodigious waves, 
 at the rate of eleven knots an hour, with scarce- 
 ly any sail spread. Towards noon the wind 
 died away, and left us for several hours at the 
 mercy of a troubled sea that could not rest, but 
 rolled and rocked with awful agitation. In the 
 evening the gale revived, and hurried us on in 
 our desired course. A linnet and two swallows, 
 taking refuge in our shrouds, were caught by 
 the sailors ; but the poor birds were so ex- 
 hausted, by the violence of the wind and the 
 length of their flight, that they soon expired. 
 
 May 28. To-day we first perceived the 
 change of the colour of the water from green 
 to dark blue ; the former indicating compara- 
 tive shallowness, the latter, unfathomable 
 depth. 
 
 May 24. We are off Cape Finisterre, having 
 experienced favourable weather since the 22d. 
 The night is beautiful with stars, amidst a pure 
 unclouded sky. The ship sails majestically 
 over an invisible expanse of water, marked only 
 by siher-topt breakers, accompanying and fol- 
 lowing in its wake. The only persons on deck 
 are the man at the helm with his eye on the 
 compass, and his hand on the wheel and the 
 mate, who silently paces the deck, listening and 
 looking through the gloom. 
 
 May 25. Multitudes of porpoises playing 
 round the vessel; two were harpooned, and 
 
 brought on board. The blubber yielded three 
 gallons of good lamp-oil. The liver and some 
 of the fleshy parts were dressed and eaten by 
 the sailors. In the evening the foam round the 
 vessel was spangled with luminous but evanes- 
 cent points ; the flakes occasionally emitting 
 their brilliant rays for several seconds. This 
 phenomenon, not ,yet satisfactorily explained 
 by philosophers, though common every night, is 
 very striking ; the track of a ship is sometimes 
 so highly irradiated as to present the appear- 
 ance of a train of fire for a considerable 
 distance. 
 
 May 27. (Lord's day.) We had public service 
 twice in the cabin. The deck had been cleared 
 last night, and no work that could be avoided 
 was done on the sabbath. It was pleasing to 
 see the crew, clean and in their best clothes, 
 engaged in reading the bibles and tracts which 
 we had given them. 
 
 May 28. This morning we had the satisfac- 
 tion to descry Porto Santo, one of the Madeira 
 Islands. Our party have been fully occupied 
 to-day in writing to friends in Old 1'.' 
 This is a peculiarly hitm-tin- ship-board 
 scene, whenever an immediate opportunity of 
 communicating with home is presented in the 
 course of a long voyage. 
 
 May 29. We reached Madeira, and went on 
 shore at Func.hal ; the captain ] 
 take in a supply of various No 
 
 description of this lovely, magnificent, and 
 well known island, by trn.-irnt \i- 
 necessary here. One of the most remarkable 
 objects of curiosity which w> \i-it.d was a 
 room in the church of St. Frrn 
 feet square and the same in li idetcly 
 
 lined, or rather embossed, both on t! 
 walls and the ceiling, with him; nn skulls, set in 
 squares composed of arm and thigh bones, 
 which form a separate frame for each skull. 
 These hideous relics are said to be th 
 saints and eminent personages f which the 
 sepulchres have been defraud' .te this 
 
 Golgotha of superstition. Tlx- whole 
 horrible and ghastly a]< \ hich is ag- 
 
 d by the tilthiness of the place, and the 
 dilapidations continually occurring the skulls 
 and bones from time to time falling from their 
 -.\in:,' the Moor with moulder- 
 ing fragments. On inquiring the cause of tin- 
 neglect of a sanctuary so peculiar!} 
 devotees as this must have been, we were told 
 that the funds Bequeathed for the main: 
 of its melancholy state had been lost ; and there 
 was not charity in the present day found to 
 keep this charnel-house in repair. On 
 may be added concerning the vines. Th 
 planted at the fronts of the houses 
 lattice-works, about seven feet hiu r : 
 and extended over the whole ground-plot. The 
 vines, being conducted over these frai; 
 only repay the owners by their delicious fruits, 
 but afford a most refreshing shade, under which 
 the whole family may be sheltered from those 
 fierce rays of the sun which give exquisite fla- 
 vour to their grapes, and make the \\ 
 Madeira one of the choicest beverages " to 
 
SUCKING-FISH, &c. PORTUGUESE MAN-OF-WAR. 
 
 gladden man's heart," not here only, but at the 
 uttermost ends of the earth. 
 
 May 31. Having re-embarked last evening 
 we this day lost sight of Madeira in oar progress. 
 
 June 1. We have been amused by observ- 
 ing luminous objects floating in the sea, at the 
 sides and in the wake of the vessel : they were 
 generally of a beautiful blue or green colour, 
 sometimes appearing at the depth of several 
 feet, and occasionally rising to the surface, 
 when their brilliancy forthwith vanished. 
 These, we conjectured, might be the same sub- 
 stances (of whatever nature) which in the dark 
 nights have heretofore exhibited such splen- 
 dour in the water. 
 
 June 2. This morning we got into the N. E. 
 trade wind, which continued to freshen for 
 several hours. A sun-fish, (the tetrodon mola 
 of Linnaeus) was harpooned from one of our 
 boats, and brought on board. It measured 
 five feet and a half in length, and four and a 
 half in width. While it was towed along-side 
 of our ship several sucking-fish (echineis re- 
 mora of Linnaeus) accompanied it, adhering to 
 different parts of the body. One of these 
 singular animals was taken by a spear. It was 
 eleven inches in length, in form resembling a 
 trout, of a brown colour, without scales, slimy 
 and loathsome to the sight. When put into a 
 vessel of water, it immediately attached itself 
 to the side by its suckers, which are twelve in 
 number, placed in the throat within a flat oval 
 surface, two inches in length, and barely an 
 inch and a half in breadth. By these the crea- 
 ture sticks with surprising firmness to whatever 
 uls. Fishes of the same kind, though 
 much larger, are a grievous annoyance to the 
 whales, and often cause them to bound out of 
 the \\ater, to shake off their tormentors by the 
 fall. 
 
 June 5. This evening we have crossed the 
 tropic of Cancer. A flying-fish (exocatus voli- 
 tans) having lighted on board, we had an 
 opportunity of examining its curious formation. 
 Thi> specimen was in size and shape much like 
 ;i hcrriim ; the sides and belly were bright as 
 burnished silver, with a tinge of blue along the 
 back the eye large ; the two pectoral fins 
 rising from the gills had each twelve rays, six 
 and a half inches long, connected by a delicate 
 transparent membrane ; with these it can rea- 
 dily direct itself forward or backward, swim in 
 the water or dart through the air. These fish 
 abound in the Atlantic, and are sometimes seen 
 singly, sometimes in shoals ; often in their 
 brief flight falling upon the decks of vessels. 
 Occasionally also they continue on the wing 
 for two or three hundred feet, then suddenly, 
 if in flocks, disappear altogether ; nor do they 
 seem to experience any difficulty in flying 
 ! the wind. Their course, when we have 
 observed them in our vicinity, was always yVow 
 the ship, their motion apparently undulating 
 with the billows, and nearly parallel with the 
 surface. They have many enemies in both 
 elements; rapacious fishes and birds of prey. 
 Our mate told us that he once saw a man-of- 
 war eagle an albatross, (Diomedea cxulans) 
 
 pounce downward upon a flying-fish, while, 
 at the same instant, a thunny, or albacore, 
 sprang from below to seize it. Neither seemed 
 to see the other, and so eagerly did they aim 
 at their common prey, that the thunny's head 
 bolted into the open beak of the albatross. The 
 latter struggled hard to carry off its unexpected 
 prize, which, however, proved too weighty, and 
 fell back into the water. Meanwhile the flying- 
 fish escaped with life from both the deaths that 
 threatened it. 
 
 June 6. At noon we were under a vertical 
 sun ; our latitude being 22 46' N. Thermo- 
 meter in the shade stood at 72, but in the sun 
 the mercury rose to 1 06. 
 
 June 7. The cry of " a whale ! a black 
 fish !" occasioned much commotion in lowering 
 down the boats, and for a while pursuing it ; 
 but the prey escaped. At dinner the second 
 mate related the following incident, confirmed 
 by the testimony of the captain. On a late 
 voyage, when near to the coast of South Ame 
 rica, an inmense whale suddenly rose at the 
 side of the ship to such an height out of the 
 water, and flung himself (unconscious of its 
 presence, having come up with great impetuo- 
 sity from the deep) with such force athwart 
 the bow of the vessel as to cut it sheer off. 
 Being but a small whaler, she filled and sunk 
 so speedily that the crew had barely time to 
 take to their boats. They were soon after 
 received on board of a companion-ship which 
 was fishing hard by. 
 
 June 9. We have been much gratified by 
 seeing what the sailors call a Portuguese man- 
 of-war, and a galley-fish. These beautiful 
 creatures are of various sizes : this was about 
 as large as a hen's egg. The animal resembles 
 a bladder, transparent, rose-coloured, with a 
 kind of keel formed in festoons, plaited like a 
 ruff, on the upper part. This appendage being 
 raised ahove the water serves for a sail, while 
 numerous tentacula, proceeding from the under 
 side, enable it to steer its course, seize its prey, 
 or to cast anchor, as it were, and fix itself on 
 the moving surface of the waves. It is said to 
 be exceedingly venomous, and one of the mates 
 told us that he had frequently been stung by it 
 while bathing. Though we handled that which 
 was brought on board very freely, none of us 
 felt any annoyance from it. Linnaeus denomi- 
 nates this kind of mollusca holocuria physalis. 
 
 Towards evening there was again a sudden and 
 loud cry, "There she goes! she spouts! a 
 sperm ! I see her fluke '." and in an instant both 
 starboard and larboard boats were lowered, man- 
 ned, and out in pursuit of a whale. They returned 
 disappointed of their object. The captain and 
 his party, hoAvever, had themselves a very 
 narrow, providential escape ; for while their 
 boat was lowering, the davits (posts to which 
 the tacklings for that purpose are attached) 
 gave way, when boat and men in it were preci- 
 pitated upon the sea, but immediately rescued, 
 with some slight personal injuries only, though 
 the captain had no expectation but that the 
 boat must have been stoved to pieces by the fall, 
 and some lives lost, if not all. 
 
 B 2 
 
THE BLACK FISH A SHARK CAUGHT. 
 
 June 10. (Lord's day.) Mr. Tyerman preach- 
 ed in. the morning, from Matt, xvi 26 : "What 
 is a man profited, if he shall gain the whole 
 world, and lose his own soull " and Mr Jones, 
 in the afternoon, from Psalm 1. 15 : " Call on 
 me in the day of trouble ; I will deliver thee, 
 and thou shalt glorify me." The latter sendee 
 was somewhat interrupted by the appearance of 
 a vast shoal of what the sailors call black fish. 
 Judging by the space which they occupied, 
 there must have been several hundreds. Two 
 boats were sent after them, and soon returned, 
 each with a prize. These were of that species 
 of whale called delphinus delphis, or the bottle- 
 nosed dolphin. The length of the larger was 
 twenty feet, and its girth at the shoulder eleven. 
 The colour of the whole body was black, except 
 a small white spot mid-way between the shoul- 
 ders and the tail ; the latter was divided into 
 two lobes, forked, lying in the plane of the 
 horizon, and thirty inches from tip to tip. The 
 form sloped both ways, from the shoulders to 
 the head, and also to the tail. The nose was 
 truncated and remarkably blunt and angular. 
 Two-thirds up the face was the blow-hole, 
 through which the animal breathes. "When the 
 skin was removed this orifice would admit the 
 open hand. The mouth was wide, provided 
 with lips ; and the jaws were armed with teeth, 
 sharp, bent rather inward projecting an inch 
 and a half from the gums, an inch in diameter 
 at the root, and two inches asunder. The 
 tongue was the size of that of a full-grown ox ; 
 the roof of the mouth hard, rough, and of a 
 dark green. The eyes were larger than those 
 of an ox. Two pectoral fins, hard and strong, 
 about two feet and a half in length, and pointed, 
 bent inward ; these were articulated with the 
 shoulder-blades by the ball and socket joint, as 
 the upper part of the arm in the human subject. 
 On the back was a protuberance of solid fat, like 
 a fin, two feet high, diminishing towards the 
 tail. The flesh was black-red ; the heart about 
 the bulk of an ox's ; the lungs and liver large 
 in proportion. In the stomach were found the 
 remains of various fishes, as the John-dory, 
 (zeus auratus), a conger-eel, (mureena conger J, 
 and the squid (sepia octopodia}, or cuttle-fish, 
 with several of their fine transparent eyes. The 
 weight of the greater of these creatures must 
 have been nearly a ton and a half. The fat was 
 from one to two and a half inches thick ; \inder 
 the forehead seven inches. The blubber of both 
 yielded ninety gallons of oil, of which the 
 larger furnished two thirds. The stomachs 
 were preserved and dried to make drum-tops, 
 for which it is said their texture is admirably 
 adapted. 
 
 At night, (the sky being clear, after much 
 cloudy weather), for the first time, we descried 
 the constellation crux, or the cross. The four 
 stars composing this glorj of the southeni hemi- 
 sphere are of large but varying magnitudes, and 
 so placed as readily to associate with the image 
 of the true cross, the lowest being the brightest. 
 Another beautiful constellation attracted our 
 notice, nearly in the zenith. This was the 
 northern crown, in which seven stars brilliantly 
 
 encircle two thirds of an oval figure. We were 
 reminded and though the idea may seem fan- 
 ciful, yet it was pleasing to ourselves amidst 
 the still night, and on the far sea that while 
 we kept in constant view the cross, that cross on 
 which our Saviour died for our redemption, we 
 might venture to hope that the crown, the crown 
 of life, which "the Lord, the righteous jut lire," 
 hath promised to " give unto all them that love 
 his appearing," might be bestowed upon ' us 
 (though so unworthy) in that day." 
 
 June 11. This 'being Whit-Monday, we 
 remembered many of our dear friends and 
 connexions, who were celebrating, in the land 
 that we love, 'their Sunday-school anniversa- 
 ries ; and with these, in spirit, we held delight- 
 ful communion. This day has been chiefly 
 occupied by the crew in cutting up the black 
 fish caught yesterday, boiling the blubber, and 
 other necessary but disgusting operations. Se- 
 veral holes in the sides and heads of thoe 
 animals were found crowded with crab-like lice. 
 The same insects are such tormentors of the 
 sperm-whales, that a small fish which 1' 
 them is said never to be disturbed at his meals 
 by the grateful creatures to whom he r 
 such welcome service. 
 
 June 14. The weather being calm, we have 
 lately made little progress. The sailors amused 
 themselves with bathing and swimming about 
 the ship; occasionally throwing themselves 
 into the water from different parts of the vessel 
 at considerable elevations. Robert, the Tahi- 
 tian, however, excelled them all in this daring 
 -. He climbed the foreyard, and from 
 the end of it precipitated himself without fear 
 or injury into the sea. The height could not 
 have been less than forty feet. 
 
 June 10. Two ships were seen this m 
 at considerable distances on either side of ours. 
 Perceiving that one of them was standing 
 towards us, our captain manned a bi 
 went on board, thinking that the crew ini-ht he 
 in want of some assistance. It was a Portu- 
 guese brig, laden with salt, and bound to one 
 of the South American ports. On the captain's 
 return, we paid a visit to the stranger, ; 
 the scene, which had become somewhat dull on 
 our own vessel, from the long-continued culm. 
 \\e were politely received, but could not help 
 pitying the misery and discomfort of th 
 board ; for though the sea was quite still, the 
 water with them was running over the deck. 
 On contrasting our tight, trim ship, and all its 
 internal conveniences, with this crazy hulk, we 
 felt truly thankful for our superior lot. 
 
 This evening, while several of the crew were 
 bathing, the captain and others from the deck 
 observed a shark preparing to attack the boat- 
 swain, who was not aware of his peril till 
 alarmed by their cries, warning him instantly 
 to make for the ship. Happily lie escaped, 
 when the monster was within three yards of 
 him, in the very attitude and act to seize his 
 prey. A boat was immediately sent out to 
 return the assault upon the enemy. The boat- 
 swain, whose cholcr had been most vehemently 
 moved by his danger, rinding himself left be- 
 
EXPLOIT OF A TAHITIAN. BOOBY-BIRDS. 
 
 hind, immediately baited a large hook with 
 about half a pound of pork, and suspended the 
 line over the stern of the vessel, hoping to allure 
 his late voracious pursuer to its own destruc- 
 tion. In less than five minutes his hope was 
 realised ; and his transport then was equal to 
 his former rage, when he saw the shark fast 
 upon his snare. It was quickly hauled on deck, 
 by means of a rope dexterously noosed round 
 its tail. The captive made a desperate floun- 
 dering, but was overpowered and dispatched as 
 fMsily as an animal so horribly tenacious of life 
 could be. The motion of the heart actually 
 continued for some minutes after it was taken 
 out of the body. It may be observed, that for the 
 bulk of the fish the heart was remarkably small, 
 not being larger than a pullet's egg. The sailors 
 called this the brown shark (squalus carcharias ). 
 It measured six feet in length. Not contented 
 with what had been already taken, the hook 
 was again baited, and presently another shark 
 (squahis ylaucus} was hoisted on board : this 
 was eight feet long, and differed in various 
 particulars from the former. It proved to be a 
 female, which on being opened was found 
 to include thirty-four young ones, each about a 
 foot in length. 
 
 June 17. Talking, during dinner, of the 
 character of those islanders whom we hope 
 soon to see, the captain said that on his last 
 voyage, when he had gone out as mate only, 
 they had on board two New Zealanders, and a 
 native of Tahiti. The latter, on many occasions, 
 displayed fearless courage and prompt intelli- 
 gence, of which he gave us a strange example. 
 
 Late one evening, he (our captain, then mate) 
 had striu-k a very large sperm whale, not far from 
 the ship. The fish, after some convulsions, re- 
 mained motionless for a considerable while, ap- 
 parently about three yards below the surface of 
 the water. The crew having waited in vain to 
 see her rise, the captain of the vessel was afraid 
 that he should lose her. On looking down ear- 
 ncstly, however, he thought she must be dead, 
 the mouth being open. Hereupon he observed, 
 that he should like to have a noose-rope thrown 
 round the lower jaw ; and told the Tahitian 
 youth that he would give him a bottle of rum 
 if he would venture to dive down and perform 
 that office. The chief mate (our captain), 
 whose harpoon was in the whale, protested 
 against such an attempt as too hazardous ; but 
 the captain urged the necessity of making sure 
 of so valuable a booty. The Tahitian, mean- 
 while, surveying the body as it lay, and tempted 
 by the proftei'ed reward, exclaimed, " Ay, ay, 
 she dead I go." Accordingly, taking the rope, 
 ready for application, between his two hands, 
 he lowered himself directly over the monster's 
 mouth, put the noose over the lower jaw, placed 
 his foot against the jaw to tighten the rope, and 
 then buoyed himself up, sprang into the boat, 
 and claimed his reward. The carcass was thus 
 secured, (for happily the whale was dead,) and 
 towed to the ship. We shall not inquire whether 
 this story most displays the extraordinary bold- 
 ness of the South Sea islander, or the inhuman 
 cupidity of the European captain of that vessel. 
 
 June 20. The brilliancy of the sea this even- 
 ing far surpassed what we had hitherto seen of 
 the kind. The ship was going rapidly along, 
 throwing up a furrow of foam about the bow. In 
 this, the luminous appearances before mentioned 
 glittered with peculiar delicacy; but it was after 
 the foam had subsided in the frothless water 
 (itself of a deep black hue,) that they displayed 
 their full splendour, gliding, like millions of 
 diamonds, in giddy succession by the side of 
 the vessel, or flashing in her wake. Lifting our 
 eyes above, we beheld the stars, in the absence 
 of the moon, sparkling with unmitigated lustre, 
 amidst a sky of such intense purity, that the 
 heavenly bodies far excelled in glory their ap- 
 pearance through our native atmosphere. 
 
 June 23. This day we passed the equator ; 
 when certain preposterous ceremonies, as usual, 
 were observed on board, during which we did 
 not escape a little sprinkling of salt water. 
 
 June 24. (Lord's day.) Mr.Tyerman preached 
 this morning upon deck, from Isaiah xxxiv. 17 : 
 " His hand hath divided it to them by line." 
 His object being to improve the event of yes- 
 terday, he made the following observations : 
 
 I. There is a line of being, which we all crossed 
 when we were born ; then we were endowed 
 with a rational and intelligent nature ; and 
 then we entered upon our state of probation. 
 
 II. There is a line of regeneration, dividing the 
 moral world into two hemispheres, in one of 
 which dwell the righteous, and in the other the 
 Avicked. This line must be crossed by all, be- 
 fore they can become Christians indeed, and 
 enjoy the privileges of the gospel. III. There 
 is a line of death, which we must each cross 
 when we have finished our probationary course, 
 and go before the tribunal of God to render an 
 account of the deeds done in the body ; but 
 when, where, and how we shall cross this line, 
 we know not. IV. There is a line which di- 
 vides between heaven and hell: this, none shall 
 ever cross who have once taken up their abode 
 in either of those regions. In application it was 
 remarked, that if we would not lament having 
 crossed the line of being, nor fear crossing the 
 line of death, we should be concerned to cross 
 the line of regeneration ; that when we fail on 
 earth we may be received into everlasting ha- 
 bitations, on the right side of the line that di- 
 vides heaven and hell. 
 
 June 25. We have been agreeably interrupted 
 in our usual occupations by the sight of many 
 booby-birds (pelicanus sula) wheeling round 
 the vessel, and pouncing upon such flying-fish 
 as happened to be on the wing. Two were 
 shot ; one of which was brought on board. It 
 was about two and a half feet in length, and 
 measured five between the extremities of the 
 wings. The inside was nearly all stomach, and 
 contained five flying-fishes, three of them re- 
 ently swallowed. This, arid some other species, 
 have been called boobies, from their excessive 
 stupidity, and the marked silliness of their as- 
 pect. When they alight on the yards or rigging 
 of vessels, they shiver, and shake their heads in 
 a peculiar manner, and often suffer themselves 
 ;o be taken with the hand. They have a re- 
 
MAGELLAN CLOUDS. MARINE RAINBOWS. 
 
 morseless enemy of their own tribe, the man-of- 
 war bird, (pelicanus aquilus,) which rushes upon 
 them, and by severe blows with its pinions and 
 bill forces the booby to surrender the prey from 
 between its beak, which the spoiler instantly 
 swallows. 
 
 June 28. The flying-fish which we have seen 
 for some days past are much larger than those 
 that appeared in higher latitudes. Several 
 storm-birds (procellaria pelayica), or Mother 
 Cary's chickens, have been observed. The 
 spectacle of the nocturnal heavens (under their 
 new aspect, adorned with constellations never 
 seen in the north,) has been occasionally en- 
 livened of late by meteors of great splendour, 
 emerging from immensity, and as suddenly ab- 
 sorbed, leaving darkness more sensibly dark 
 from the effect of the momentary lucid interval. 
 June 30. We descried two whales this morn- 
 ing. They were of the Greenland species (ba- 
 Icena mysttcetus), or right whale, as the sailors 
 significantly call them. These are distinguished 
 from the sperm whale by the manner in which 
 they spout, the former having the spiracle, or 
 l)i isthing hole, at the top of the head ; conse- 
 quently, when they breathe, the column of 
 water which they eject rises perpendicularly. 
 On the contrary, the sperm whales having the 
 corresponding aperture in the nose, the water is 
 thrown horizontally. 
 
 The two which we now saw, not being of 
 the sperm kind, our captain did not order chase 
 of them. We observed one of these " hugest of 
 things that swim the ocean stream," twice come 
 up to breathe, and each time it cast forth a large 
 volume of water to the height of from twenty to 
 thirty feet, not in a fountain form, but in a cloud 
 of spray, that something resembled a small ship, 
 in full sail, at a distance. 
 
 July 2. This evening one of the Magellan 
 clouds appeared in the south, about ten o'clock. 
 Of these there are three, called after the Portu- 
 ;:i visitor, whose name is thus recorded at 
 om-c in heaven and on earth, by being associ- 
 ated with these beautiful phenomena in the 
 southern hemisphere, and also with the straits 
 at the extremity of the South American penin- 
 sula, both of which he discovered on the first 
 made by man round the world, though 
 he unfortunately perished before he had person- 
 ally accomplished it ; leaving that honour to his 
 companion Cano, who brought the vessel home. 
 The nebula! before mentioned are of the colour 
 of the galaxy, and probably, like it, composed of 
 a multitude of stars, indiscernibly small. The 
 galaxy itself, from these Austral regions, is much 
 more clearly defined to the eye than in England. 
 It seems avast attenuated cloud, most delicately 
 white, and apparently nearer to the earth thaii 
 the starry concave that swells into infinity above, 
 and shines out in the lustre of the brightest con- 
 stellations df both hemisphi 
 
 July 5. The monstrous figures, and unwieldy 
 floundering of the fin-backed whales (baltcna 
 phyaahis), which often reach the length of 
 eighty or ninety feet, but are of no value to the 
 fishers, yielding little oil, greatly amused us this 
 morning, till our attention was diverted for we 
 
 are always on the look-out for new objects by 
 id and graceful motions of the noddy 
 (sterna stolida}, a bird which skims, like a 
 swallow, along the smooth surface of the ocean, 
 clamouring and snapping up the flying-fishes 
 that cross its flight. 
 
 July 8. We find ourselves in the midst of 
 the great and wide sea, wherein are thiny.s 
 innumerable, both great and small," according 
 to the language of the Psaln,i>t. The deep was 
 full of animation, and the surface turbulent with 
 the pastime of leviathan and his attendants. 
 Birds of different kinds followed the whales, 
 and perched on their backs when they emerged, 
 to pick off the small insects, like lice, 
 prey on these enormous creatures, and often 
 make large holes in their well-lined flanks. 
 
 July 10. A shoal of sperm whales (]>/ 
 macrocephalus) passed us, within a quarter of a 
 mile from the ship. They were known kr 
 In-own colour, and their peculiar manner of 
 spouting; but the wind blew too hard to allow 
 our crew to venture after them. This species 
 of whale, as well as the Greenland u 
 backed, grows sometimes to t "t" from 
 
 eighty to ninety feet. The hea<l is imii! 
 proportion to the body; and it is in the i 
 of the skull that the \aluable matter. 
 spermaceti, is found, in a liquid form. To ob- 
 tain this, a hole is made in the cranium, v 
 it is taken out with buckets, in very great 
 tities. Our captain, who has long bet 
 
 in this fishery, tells us that he has some, 
 times laded as much as four an 
 hundred gallons of spermaceti out of the head 
 of a single v\ 
 
 July 11. The wind having been boi 
 last night, aa we were contemplating the agita- 
 tion of the waters this morning, <m ' 
 quarter, the sun at the sa 
 brightly, we were pleased on beholding, for the 
 Hist time, many marine rainbows, 
 formed on the spray from the tops of s 
 the higher waves. The prismatic colours were 
 vi\id anil distinct, tliov 
 nescent. The albatross begins to si 
 ige of our course. It is a i; 
 especially when seen among the pintado- 
 great numbers of which are continually on the 
 wing in our wake. 
 
 July 12. The thermometer stood this morn- 
 ing at 55. The anchors were removed from the 
 bow to the deck. We are daily makii 
 necessary preparation for doubling Cape Horn. 
 A pintado was shot, and f 11 into the 
 when immediately the large flock of i!- 
 panionsalighti <1 around it, but for what purpose 
 we did not discover. A small bird, about the 
 size of a thrush, called by mariners the quarter- 
 moon bird, because its wings, when expanded, 
 bear some resemblance to the crescent moon, 
 joined the feathered tribes which, da\ and night, 
 follow in the wake of our vessel. It 
 light grey colour, and glides with 
 ness close to the water, precisely < 
 curvilinear flight according to the undulation of 
 the sea. 
 
 July 14. We had much thunder and light- 
 
A HARD GALE. TURPINS. CAPE-HORN. 
 
 ning last night. During the storm, a fiery 
 meteor, apparently the size of a man's head, 
 shot through the atmosphere, and fell into the 
 sea near our ship. The light which it diffused 
 was so sudden and intense that night became as 
 noon-day. Had it struck our vessel, we might 
 have all perished on the spot, and no record of 
 our end been discovered till the day of judg- 
 ment. We are in the hands of God, and on 
 Him, whom all the elements obey, is our sole 
 dependence. 
 
 July 18. A magnificent albatross, snowy 
 white, except the tips of the wings, which were 
 dark brown, came suddenly near our ship this 
 forenoon ; then passed away, like an apparition 
 of beauty. This might be deemed a bird which 
 had attained full maturity, or rather great age, 
 not only by its size, but by the pure colour of 
 its plumage, which, in the younger ones, is much 
 more dusky. 
 
 Towards night the gale came on with such 
 fury that there was no rest for us in our beds ; 
 but, " in the multitude of our thoughts within 
 us," the remembrance of friends afar off, and of 
 God ever present with us as with them, " re- 
 freshed our souls." 
 
 July 19. Having requested the captain to 
 inform us whenever anything novel or striking 
 was to be seen from deck, by day or by night, 
 he sent for us early this morning to witness the 
 approach of a tremendous squall. Sky and 
 indeed, wore an aspect so wild and mena- 
 cing that wo landsmen might well have been ex- 
 it' wo had felt greatly appalled. From 
 overwhelming fear, however, we were graci- 
 ously prosened by Him whose strength is made 
 perfect in weak;;. B8. To us it was intensely in- 
 teresting to observe the vigilant care which 
 marked the countenance of our commander, 
 whose rapid glances seemed to take in, at once, 
 every part of the ship, and the whole surround- 
 ing hemisphere of horrors and perils ; especially 
 . with instinctive jealousy, the quarter 
 from which the instant storm was coming down 
 in its fury, and prepared in a moment to meet it 
 with all the resources of his skill, and the capa- 
 bilities of his vessel ; to see that half of the crew 
 whose watch it was, standing, each at his post, 
 (alongside of brace, tack, sheet, or lift,) waiting 
 with an air of prompt yet patient attention for 
 the sudden and urgent commands that might be 
 given ; but particularly to behold the timonecr 
 (the man at tho helm), whose hands firmly 
 1 the wheel, and whose eye alternately. 
 anxiously, intelligently glanced from the com- 
 pass-box to the sails, from the sails to the eye of 
 the captain, and thence again to the compass. 
 The picture, the reality, which this scene pre- 
 sented, was sublimely affecting, and produced 
 an exaltation rather than a depression of mind, 
 amidst all the terrors of conflicting elements 
 around us. A fall of snow that followed covered 
 the deck four inches deep. The squall, how- 
 ever, passed away without having harmed us. 
 
 July 24. Several grampuses (delphimis orca) 
 passed the stern of the ship this morning. This 
 species is called by seamen the killer, from its 
 successfully attacking and destroying whales. 
 
 When the latter, even in a shoal, find a gram- 
 pus among them, they are said to be so terrified 
 that those which have young ones take them 
 upon their backs, and leave them completely out 
 of the water to preserve them from the ravenous 
 enemy. The tongue of the whale is the deli- 
 cacy which the grampus seizes in his assault, and 
 he tears it out with surprising dispatch. 
 
 July 26. In the afternoon we were near the 
 Falkland Islands, which lie off the Straits of 
 Magellan. Whale-porpoises and penguins were 
 the principal novelties discovered within the last 
 few days. Our captain and crew have often 
 spoken of an animal which they call Turpi-n, 
 found on the Galipagos Islands, on the west coast 
 of South America, near the equator, about ninety 
 degrees west longitude ; to-day we have taken 
 down a description of it. They represent this 
 creature as a species of tortoise, the shell of 
 which is black, carinated and reflected at the 
 neck. The scutilla is oval and composed of ir- 
 regular plates ; the head and eyes are small, 
 the neck slender and much longer than in other 
 species of the tortoise, being about twenty-eight 
 inches in one of the middle size. The legs are 
 twelve inches in length, the foot consisting of 
 five toes, the claws of which are hooked and 
 strong. Turpins, at different ages, are found 
 from three inches long to six feet; some being a 
 load for four or five men. They live entirely on 
 shore, feeding upon plants, and resort much to 
 springs and rivulets of fresh water, where they 
 are generally taken. Though so strong, in some 
 instances, as to carry four or five men standing 
 upon their backs, they are so slow of motion as to 
 be easily caught ; when turned upon their backs 
 they are unable to recover their legs, and are 
 thus secured, Their flesh is such excellent and 
 nourishing food that we are informed a ship's 
 crew is never weary of it ; and they are, there- 
 fore, eagerly sought by sailors at the landing 
 places. As these animals are exceedingly ab- 
 stemious, and can live for months without eat- 
 ing (in a state of torpor), they are particularly 
 useful on long voyages in the South Pacific. 
 When taken, these live lumps of stock are stowed 
 away, like dead lumber, in the hold between 
 decks, and constitute a valuable store of fresh 
 provisions. The female lays a considerable 
 number of eggs, which are spherical and about 
 three inches in diameter ; these she buries in 
 the sand, where they are hatched by the heat of 
 the sun. 
 
 July 29. (Lord's day.) The sun rose bright 
 from the sea, which was but lightly in motion, 
 the wind being moderate. We have found this 
 indeed a Sabbath, a day of rest and holy plea- 
 sure, amidst the loneliness of savage lands in 
 view, and meeting oceans, on which we are sail- 
 ing, round Cape Horn. This celebrated point, 
 " placed far amidst the melancholy main," pre- 
 sents none of those tremendous horrors (though 
 still in the depth of winter) with which, the cap- 
 tain nnd crew tell us, it is almost always in- 
 vested. Mr. Tyerman preached in the morning 
 from Psalm cxxi. 4 : " Behold, He that keep- 
 eth Israel shall neither slumber nor sleep." At 
 the close of his discourse he mentioned the 
 
ANECDOTE OF MR. TYERMAN. DOUBLING CAPE HORN. 
 
 following circumstance. " Yesterday was the 
 anniversary of -a great and very remarkable de- 
 liverance which I experienced in the year 1793. 
 At that time I was intimate with several young 
 men as gay and trifling as myself; and we fre- 
 quently spent our Sabbaths in pleasure on the 
 Thames. Early in the week on the occasion 
 referred to, I and four others had planned a 
 Sunday party down the river ; to make the most 
 of it, we agreed to embark on Saturday after- 
 noon, and proceed to Gravesend. On Friday 
 night, when I lay clown to rest, a transient mis- 
 giving, whether it was right so to profane the 
 Sabbath of the Lord, gave me a little uneasi- 
 ness ; but I overcame the monitory feeling, and 
 fell asleep. On Saturday morning, when I 
 awoke, the thought again came upon me, but 
 again I resisted it, and resolved to meet my 
 companions in the aftemoon. I was about to 
 rise, but while I mused I fell asleep again, and 
 dreamed. I thought myself in a certain place, 
 whither divine Providence often led me at that 
 season of my life. Here a gentleman called me 
 to him, saying, that he had a letter for me, 
 which I went to receive from his hand. When 
 I reached him, he had opened the enclosure and 
 appeared to be reading the contents. 1 imagi- 
 ned then that I looked over his shoulder, and 
 perceived that the letter was closely written, but 
 a pen had been drawn through every line, and 
 had obliterated all the words. Wondering what 
 this could mean, I was going to take hold of the 
 letter, when a large black seal presented itself 
 to my sight, and so startled me that forthwith 
 I awoke, with this sentence upon my mind, 
 ' You shall not go !' Though I had never been 
 in any way superstitious regarding dreams, this 
 so affected me, and the words ' You shall not 
 go,' seemed so perpetually sounding in my ears, 
 and haunting my imagination, that I determined 
 to be obedient and not go ; persuaded that some 
 (Nil would befall me if I did. I spent that day 
 and the two following in great anguish and 
 anxiety, expecting hourly to hear something that 
 would explain this singular presentiment. No 
 tidings, however, arrived till Tuesday morning, 
 when I read in a newspaper the following para- 
 graph : Last Sunday, in the afternoon, as a 
 boat, with four young gentlemen, a waterman, 
 
 and a boy, belonging to Mr. , of Wapping, 
 
 was coming up the river, in' Bugsby's hole, a 
 little below Blackwall, a gust of wind upset the 
 boat, and all on board perished.' That was the 
 identical boat on which I was to have embarked. 
 I could scarcely believe my eyes ; I read the 
 paragraph again and again. There it was, and 
 there it remained, speaking the same words. I 
 cannot express the horror and consternation of 
 my mind. I was constrained to exclaim, * This 
 is the finger of God ! Who am I, that God 
 should in so wonderful a manner interpose for 
 my deliverance t What'a warning against Sab- 
 bath-breaking ! What a call to devote myself 
 to the Lord and his service !' A warning which 
 I took, and a call which I humbly hope I was 
 thenceforward enabled to obey : ' For God 
 speakcth once, yea twice ; yet man percciveth 
 it not. In a dream, in a vision of the night ; 
 
 when deep sleep falleth upon man, in slumber- 
 ings upon the bed ; then He openeth the ears 
 of men, and sealeth their instruction, that He 
 may withdraw man from his purpose, and hide 
 pride from man. He keepeth back his soul 
 from the pit, and his life from perishing.'" 
 Job xxxiii. 14, 18. 
 
 July 31. Our course has been W. S. W. with 
 little interruption. At noon we were about 105 
 miles short of the meridian of Cape Horn. The 
 captain prognosticated that we should soon have 
 some genuine Cape Horn weather. This he in- 
 ferred from the aspect of the sky, and the heav- 
 ing of the ocean, continually on the increase, 
 though the breeze was inconsiderable. Every 
 swell of the waves seemed a mile in extent, hav- 
 ing what the sailors call a long foot ; that is, the 
 sea rose and fell gradually and majestically, not 
 short and abruptly as we have generally ob- 
 served to be the case, especially in the Bay of 
 Biscay. These long-footed swells are almost pe- 
 culiar here, and would seem to have been ap- 
 pointed by Providence, (in that merciful eco- 
 nomy which forgets not to care for ma i 
 where he most seldom ventures,) to render these 
 seas navigable, which, according to our captain, 
 they would not be in fresh weather, were the 
 waves as precipitous, and liable to break sud- 
 denly, as they are in most parts. To-day we 
 have had the first heavy fall of snow. 
 
 Aug. 1. Having reached a southern latitude, 
 59, 30', sufficiently high for doubling 
 Horn, and being in the longitude of the latter, 
 we wore ship, and took a northern course to 
 avoid meeting icebergs in the niyht, which arc 
 not unfrequent here. We escaped ; indeed, we 
 saw none, though the snow-birds, which most, 
 upon them, were our visiters. By doubling 
 Cape Honi is meant, not merely j 
 point of land, but sailing quite round the other 
 side of the extreme peninsular projection of 
 South America, into the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 Aug. 5. We began |p shape our course in a 
 W. N. W. direction, to obtain the advair 
 the trade winds, when we reach their : 
 The captain and crew daily express their sur- 
 prise at the unwonted continuance of that pro- 
 pitious weather which has hitherto brought us 
 safely through the very realm of tempests, where 
 Anson, Byron, and other navigators, suffered so 
 much. 
 
 Aug. 7. A sailor being aloft, eight or nine 
 feet above the leeward shrouds, his foot slipped, 
 and he fell over the rail into the clue, or lower 
 corner of the mainsail, which was stretched a 
 little above the leeward bulwark. The captain, 
 having seen his first slip, ran to help him, and 
 providentially caught the poor fellow just as he 
 was sliding off from the sail into the water. 
 Had he not been rescued that moment, he must 
 have been drowned, for the ship was going at 
 great speed, and the boats were lashed upon 
 the deck. Happily he received no serious 
 harm. The same man had fallen from the 
 deck into the hold of the vessel in the London 
 Dock before she sailed ; and then had as narrow 
 an escape from death, though with a severe 
 contusion on the head. 
 
MOLLYMAUKS. 
 
 Sailors are proverbially superstitious. This 
 escape of their comrade occasioned much con- 
 versation among the crew, and sundry stories 
 were told, which though awful enough at sea, 
 may appear puerile on land. Two of these (for 
 the sake of exemplifying the only fears that 
 seamen feel, and the groundlessness of them,) 
 we shall record. Our chief mate said, that on 
 hoard a ship where he had served, the mate on 
 duty ordered some of the youths to reef the 
 main- top-sail. "When the first got up, he heard 
 a strange voice saying, " It blows hard." The 
 lad waited for no more ; he was down in a 
 trice, and telling his adventure. A second im- 
 mediately ascended, laughing at the folly of his 
 companion, but returned even more quickly, 
 declaring that he was quite sure that a voice, 
 not of this world, had cried in his ear, "It 
 blows hard." Another went, and another, but 
 each came back with the same tale. At length 
 the mate, having sent up the whole watch, ran 
 up the shrouds himself, and when he reached 
 the haunted spot, heard the dreadful words 
 distinctly uttered in his ears, " It blows hard." 
 " Ay, ay, old one ; but blow it ever so hard, 
 we must ease the earings for all that," replied 
 the mate, undauntedly ; and looking round, he 
 spied a fine parrot perched on one of the clues, 
 the thoughtless author of all the false alarms, 
 which had probably escaped from some other 
 vessel, but had not previously been discovered 
 to have taken refuge on this. Another of our 
 officers mentioned, that on one of his voyages, 
 he remembered a boy having been sent up to 
 clear a rope which had got foul above the mi/en- 
 top. Presently, however, he came back, tremb- 
 ling, and almost tumbling to the bottom, 
 declaring that he had seen " Old Davy," aft the 
 cross-trees : moreover, that the Evil One had a 
 huge head and face, with prick-cars, and eyes 
 as bright as fire. Two or three others were sent 
 up in succession ; to all of whom the apparition 
 glared forth, and was identified by each to be 
 " Old Davy, sure enough." The mate, in a 
 rage, at length mounted himself; when reso- 
 lutely, as in the former case, searching for the 
 bugbear, he soon ascertained the innocent cause of 
 so much terror to be a large horned owl, so lodged 
 as to be out of sight to those who ascended on 
 the other side of the vessel, but which, when 
 any one approached the cross-trees, popped up 
 his portentous visage to see what was coming. 
 The mate brought him down in triumph, and 
 " Old Davy," the owl, became a very peaceable 
 ship-mate among thr crew, who were no longer 
 scared by his horns and eyes ; for sailors turn 
 their backs on nothing when they know what 
 it is. Had the birds, in those two instances, 
 departed as secretly as they came, of course they 
 would have been deemed supernatural visit- 
 ants to the respective ships, by all who had heard 
 the one or seen the other. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Commemoration of the sailing of the Ship Duff, with the 
 first Missionaries to the South Seas Mollymauks 
 Agitated Sea-scene A Storm Imminent Peril and 
 great Deliverance Tropic of Capricorn The " Prickly 
 Heat" The Gannet War Hawk Lunar Influence 
 Dangerous Archipelago A Whale struck The Tropic 
 Bird Planet Venus Lunar Rainbow Water-spouts 
 Sailors' Dreams A Booby-bird taken BetKWPective 
 Reflections Indications of Land An unknown Island 
 Resolution, Doubtful, Tuscan, Bernie, Chain, and 
 other Islands Arrival at Tahiti. 
 Aug. 10. This day, twenty-five years ago, 
 the first missionaries to the South Sea islands 
 embarked at Blackwall, with that distinguished 
 servant of God, Captain James Wilson, in the 
 ship Duff. The remembrance of this great event 
 (as it has proved) in the history of those remote 
 regions of the globe, which but a few years be- 
 fore were not known to exist, and for centuries 
 upon centuries, it may be presumed, had been 
 inhabited by generations of idolaters furnished 
 us with much matter for interesting conversation, 
 devout thanksgiving, and fervent prayer, in the 
 course of the day. We were especially led to 
 commemorate, with gratitude and joy, the 
 patient perseverance in well-doing of 'those 
 good men by whom it pleased God eventually 
 to commence one of the most signal gospel 
 miracles, in the convertion of heathen tribes, 
 recorded in the annals of the church of Christ. 
 Nor did we forget with what zeal, faith, and 
 love, in this sacred cause, the directors of the 
 London Missionary Society had been enabled, 
 during many fruitless years, to support their 
 patient labourers in that untried field, sowing 
 precious seed, watering it with tears, and wait- 
 ing the Lord's own " appointed weeks of har- 
 vest." Those " weeks" are come, and the harvest 
 is great ; the reapers, indeed, are comparatively 
 few, but many among the natives are entering 
 upon the work. 
 
 Aug. 13. Two sea-fowls, called by the sailors 
 Mollymauks (a variety of the Diomeda fuUgi- 
 nosa) were taken. This bird is about the bulk 
 of a goose in body, but the expansion of the 
 wings, though these are remarkably arched, 
 reaches seven feet. Their flight is very graceful, 
 and performed with little apparent exertion; 
 though long in the air, they arc seldom seen to 
 flap a pinion, whether they rise or descend, go 
 with the wind, or sail against it. The plumage 
 on the back and upper parts is dark blue, and 
 white beneath. When they alight on the water 
 to seize their prey, these large fowls buoy them- 
 selves over the surface, with their wings balanc- 
 ing above their bodies, either to preserve their 
 steadiness, or to be ready to take flight. When 
 placed upon deck they are unable to raise them- 
 selves from the level ; and when upon the sea it 
 is curious to watch them taking advantage of the 
 tops of the waves to mount aloft. When the 
 water is smooth, they seem to run upon it with 
 their feet for a great distance, and then rise very 
 gradually before they can obtain full play for 
 their wings. Having just killed the last of our 
 live-stock, a sheep, we must hereafter be content 
 without fresh meat, with which we have been 
 moderately indulged ever since we left home. 
 Hitherto our health has been unimpaired ; truly, 
 
10 
 
 IMMINENT PERIL AND GKEAT DELIVERANCE. 
 
 goodness and mercy have followed us day by day ; 
 may our gratitude correspond with our obliga- 
 tions, and God be acknowledged in all our 
 ways ! 
 
 Aug. 15. Yesterday and to-day have been 
 exceedingly tempestuous ; and the spectacle of 
 the sea the most, sublime and appalling that we 
 ever beheld. The diversity of forms assumed 
 by the stupendous billows was very striking ; 
 they confounded the eye, and made giddy the 
 brain, in attempting to follow their motions and 
 their changes. There they rolled along in a 
 continuous range of vast height, and several 
 miles in length ; while here they were followed by 
 huge masses of heaped-up water of lesser extent, 
 with steep and rugged declivities; others again 
 rose like immense cones, or insulated mountains 
 of fearful elevation, while the foam broke over 
 their summits, and poured down their sides, glist- 
 ening in the sunbeams with dazzling whiteness, a 
 vivid green appearing beneath it, and the colours 
 of both being rendered more brilliantly conspi- 
 cuous by the black sides of the billows down 
 which these streams of splendour were hurried 
 into the abyss below. The whole horizon pre- 
 sented a tumultuous succession of similar images, 
 perpetually intervolving on every hand. We 
 were preserved, amidst all this uproar and con- 
 fusion, by Him who holdeth the waters in the 
 hollow of his hand, and there, when the danger 
 was most imminent, we were safe. It is worthy 
 of note, that not at the shore only, but in the 
 midst of the wide ocean, He sets bounds to the 
 sea, saying to it, " Thus far shall thou go, and 
 no farther :" by the very element that raises the 
 tl icy are restrained from increasing in the 
 1:1; io of the gale, or no vessels could live among 
 them; for when the wind exceeds a certain 
 of strength, it actually blows doirn and 
 keeps under the wild surges, which it had previ- 
 ously swollen to their limited height by a less 
 impulse. The clue of our m:iin-st ay-sail broke 
 loose while the storm was thus raging, and flap- 
 ped with such violence that no one dared to 
 approach it, for a blow would have been death ; 
 such was the force with which it struck, that, 
 pelting entangled with one of the largest of our 
 anchors, it immediately heaved the shaft upon 
 the bulwark. The sailors mastered it at length 
 by hauling down the sail itself, and making it 
 fast. 
 
 Aug. 16. Last night has been one of horrors 
 and deliverances beyond all that we have yet 
 experienced. We had retired to rest, as usual, 
 though few could sleep, on account of the creak- 
 ing and rocking of the vessel, the yelling of the 
 winds, and the roaring of the waves. About 
 one o'clock Mr. Bennet heard a tremendous ex- 
 plosion or crash, as though the ship had been 
 violently disrupted, or all her timbers compressed 
 together by some inconceivable force ; a hideous 
 glare of light at the same time bursting through 
 the bull's-eye above, upon the darkness. In- 
 s! 'inlly afterwards, he heard the captain calling 
 out of the cabin below, with vehemence, the 
 hvo names of the deputation: "Mr. Bennet! 
 Mr. Tyerman! did you hearl did you hear 
 that' ' Oh, pray to God for us! All is over! 
 
 all is over ! Lord have mercy upon us !" A 
 second time, before Mr. Bennet could answer, the 
 terrible light flashed like a momentary conflagra- 
 tion of all around, and a louder peal of thunder 
 than before accompanied the blaze, followed by 
 what seemed to be the sea itself rushing in 
 cataracts between decks. This, however, proved 
 to be a storm of hail, the stones of which were 
 as large as pigeons' eggs, and severely smote the 
 faces and hands of those above, who were per- 
 sonally exposed to it. Again the captain cried 
 out, "It is now all over! pray, pray for us! 
 Lord, have mercy upon us !" Mr. T\ 
 and Mr. Jones, who had been asleep, now came 
 running from their berths, enquiring w! 
 the nature of the occurrences, and what harm 
 had been sustained. Just then a third flash of 
 lightning, and a crack of thunder, the one more 
 faint, the other less deafening than before, and 
 with four distinct pulsations between them, 
 gave token that the danger, though still near 
 upon us, might be passing away. The chief 
 mate, whose watch it was upon deck, now in- 
 formed us that the hurricane bc^an about nine 
 o'clock, but it had not reached 
 towards one, when we fir icd the voice 
 
 of the thunder from the waili; -id, and 
 
 the booming of the waves; and when that 
 dreadful shock convulsed the vessel, which con- 
 vinced the captain that it must have born fatally 
 struck, as at the same time he heard the expres- 
 sion aloud, " That pumps are of tio use 
 The mate said that this first groat flash 
 his face, and he felt as if stunned for a moment 
 or two, the sulphurous flame appearing to run 
 down his jacket-sleeve. The second peal was 
 accompanied by a crimson bla/.e, which v 
 stantaneously followed by the tempest of hnil, 
 pouring like shot upon himself and his 
 comrades, who (to use his own 
 crowded about him like a flock of sheep, and 
 could scarcely be prevailed on to quit his side on 
 the necessary duties of the ship. I : 
 that the main-top-sail had happily been taken 
 in before the squall, or it must inevitably have 
 been carried away and perhaps involved the 
 destruction of the vessel, with all on board. 
 This he thought a very providential act, for he 
 had only done it under an impression which 
 urged him, as if he had heard a \ 
 " Take it in take it in take in the main-top- 
 sail I" The Lord, however, so ordered it, that 
 amidst all these perils not a mast was sp: 
 struck; not a sail carried away or ripp< 
 a timber suffered damage ; not a life w; 
 nor limb injured, of passenger or crew. 
 
 The captain was most powerfully affected 
 with the terrors and mercies of the past night, 
 and appears very serious this day. I! 
 that, on the preceding evening, when he returned 
 to the cabin from deck, he read a portion of 
 Scripture before lying down in his cot, wht 
 words were deeply impressed upon his heart, 
 "Jesus answered them, Do ye now believe?' 
 Oh, that both he and we, and our fellow-voj - 
 agers, may have grace to profit, as we ought, by 
 this display of divine goodness towards us ; and 
 more fully than ever before to consecrate our- 
 
THE PRICKLY HEAT. 
 
 11 
 
 selves, body and soul, for time and eternity, 
 to his service ! May he give to each of us that 
 spiritual discernment and understanding 
 
 " "Which hears the mighty voice of God, 
 
 And ponders what he" saith ; 
 His word and works, his* gifts and rod, 
 Have each a voice to faith." 
 
 S. Iat42 19'. W. long. 88 30'. Therm. 48. 
 
 Aug. 17. This afternoon the gale had greatly 
 abated from its violence, the sea gradually sub- 
 sided, and we set more sail. The evening was 
 calm and the night serene. The two Magel- 
 lauic clouds were conspicuous objects in the 
 southern sky, to the east of the galaxy, of which 
 they seemed fleecy fragments, rent from that 
 beautiful zone with which the hand of Omnipo- 
 tence has invested the heavens. 
 
 Aug. 22. This day, and not before, the dead- 
 lights (close shutters) have been removed, and 
 we have again the pleasure of viewing the ocean 
 from our cabin windows. The last week has 
 been employed by the officers and crew in 
 making preparations for their fishery, these be- 
 in-- tin- chief regions for sperm whales in the 
 Pacific. From the winter, which we experi- 
 enced beyond Cape Horn, we are a second time 
 enjoying the warmth and splendour of summer 
 within less than two months, being now about 
 as far to the w<-M as we were to the east of South 
 America, when we were in the same latitude 
 before. Our captain informs us that he was 
 once becalmed for fourteen days in these seas, 
 during which he made but 1 40' of progress. 
 In this deplorable situation, which might have 
 been prolonged indefinitely, he was so short of 
 water that not more than a pint and a half per 
 day was allowed to e.ach man, for every purpose. 
 Providence hath more bountifully dealt with us. 
 careering in safety before a fair wind ; 
 our bread has been given to us, and our water 
 is sure. What blessings are bread and water, 
 when these are literally the only food of voyagers 
 on the great deep ! We all assent to the tad 
 that they are so, but how much so they only can 
 tell who have been ready to perish for want of 
 the one, or the other, or both. In the afternoon, 
 the surface of the sea was almost covered with 
 young Portuguese men-of-war (formerly de- 
 scribed), all exceedingly small, and resembling 
 lent bubbles yet bubbles instinct with 
 I any sheer-waters were flying around us 
 at this time. These birds appear to be equally 
 fitted to fly in both elements ; for when they 
 dive after their prey, they move in pursuit of it 
 under water with a velocity and force hardly 
 UM than the speed and the power that carry 
 them through the air. 
 
 . 25. This evening we crossed the tropic 
 "f Capricorn, and rejoice to find ourselves again 
 in the torrid zone. Our captain, who is a man 
 of shrewd observation, states that in passing 
 from a cold into a hot climate (by the swift 
 transitions made in voyaging) he has generally 
 remarked more than usual irritability and quar- 
 .eness among sailors. This, if it be so, 
 may arise from the same physical cause which 
 generates the complaint denominated prickly 
 heat a peculiar itching sensation over the whole 
 
 skin, or tormenting one particular part only. This 
 disease, if such it may be called, is often expe- 
 rienced by persons, whether accustomed to the 
 sea or not, when they enter the tropical latitudes, 
 and is probably the effect of heated blood, which 
 may very naturally have a provoking influence 
 over the temper. It soon, however, passes off. 
 
 Considering that the islands of the Pacific 
 may have been originally peopled from the 
 continent of South America, we enquired of our 
 captain, who is well acquainted with the persons 
 and manners of many of the tribes of each, 
 whether he could discern any resemblance be- 
 tween them. He says that there is a manifest 
 similarity as to form, stature, and complexion, 
 but none in language that he could ever perceive. 
 Of the latter, however, we may doubt his com- 
 petency to judge. It is observable that the 
 natives of the islands can learn to speak the 
 languages of the South American Indians much 
 more easily and perfectly than the English, or 
 any other European tongue. 
 
 Aug. 26. " A sperm whale," was several 
 times announced from the mast-head to-day, but 
 in every instance proved to be of the physaiiis or 
 Finback kind, of which we were glad, though the 
 crew were disappointed. We had much feared 
 that the sanctity of the Sabbath would be broken 
 by this adventurous sort of fishing. Mr. Tyer- 
 man aptly chose for the text of his sermon, in 
 the forenoon, " Hinder me not, seeing the Lord 
 hath prospered my way." Gen. xxiv. f)(>. 
 
 Aug. 27. Among other birds that wo have 
 lately seen for the first time, this day a solitary 
 gannet (pelicamis bassanus) approached us, but 
 soon disappeared. It is about three feet in 
 length ; the body white, excepting the tips of the 
 wings, which are dark brown ; the tail wedged ; 
 the beak and quill-feathers black. While the 
 female of this species of pelican is engaged with 
 incubation the male provides food, and brings 
 it to her. This consists principally of herrings 
 and sprats. In the bag, under his bill, he is 
 able to carry four or five herrings at once. In 
 proof of the affection which some of the feathered 
 tribes occasionally manifest towards one another, 
 the following statement was made by one of our 
 respectable officers on board, and he assured us 
 that the circumstance came within his own 
 knowledge. On the island of Natividad, in the 
 South Seas, one of the pelicans frequenting there 
 had received some injury, which maimed a wing 
 and disabled it from flying or diving. The un- 
 fortunate bird must have perished speedily, had 
 not other pelicans, of the same species, regularly 
 foraged for it, and day by day brought a supply 
 of various kinds of small fishes from the sea, 
 which they disgorged before it, and left for their 
 invalid companion to feast upon. When the 
 sailors discovered this, they often watched the 
 opportunity, and robbed the poor creature of 
 its charitable subsistence making many a good 
 meal of what was compassionately intended for 
 the cripple, that could not help itself, much less 
 avenge its wrongs. 
 
 We were much pleased this morning to be 
 told by the captain that he was resolved to put 
 down the practice of profane swearing on board 
 
SPERM WHALE. 
 
 the ship, and that he had just given notice of 
 his determination to carry the law on this sub 
 ject into effect in future, and fine every man a 
 shilling for each oath he should be known to 
 utter. (N. B. Every master of a ship who 
 does not enforce and execute this law among 
 his crew, is himself liable to a fine of five 
 pounds. So says our authority.) 
 
 Aug. 28. Last night the south-east trade 
 winds, for which we have been daily looking, 
 hoping, and praying, sprang up, and we are 
 now steadily and pleasantly proceeding on our 
 way. The heavens have assumed much the 
 same appearances as they wore between the 
 tropics, on the Atlantic ; innumerable small 
 white clouds fleck the sky, and temper the sun- 
 beams, which otherwise would be oppressive. 
 We saw a pilot-fish (scomber ductor) to-day, 
 near the stern of our vessel : it is of a silvery- 
 blue colour, with four transverse bands of a 
 deeper tinge ; four dorsal spines, and the tail 
 marked with black ; the length is about eighteen 
 inches,' and the general shape like that of a 
 tunny, but the head much shorter. It takes its 
 name from often swimming before or near the 
 shark, which it is supposed to pilot to its prey. 
 
 Aug. 31. We are flying swiftly and delight- 
 fully on the wings of the trade wind, and 
 though now within the tropics, and in so low a 
 latitude as 19 U S., yet the weather is by no 
 means uncomfortably warm. No climate, in- 
 deed, can be conceived finer, or more congenial 
 to our feelings and general health, though some 
 allowances of course must be made for our 
 being upon the water, and having the advan- 
 tages of cooling sea breezes by night and by day. 
 About this time, however, we first perceived the 
 tropic bird (Phaeton tetherius), as it is called, 
 from the zone to which its range is supposed to be 
 confined. It preys upon flying-fish exclusively, 
 as our sailors say, and not upon dolphins and 
 albicores, as some naturalists affirm. It is rarely 
 seen on land, except during the breeding season : 
 there it perches on trees, but makes its nest on 
 the ground in the bushes. 
 
 Sept. 4. Another stranger visited us this 
 morning the war-hawk (pelicanus minor), or 
 lesser frigate pelican. The bill and head of 
 this bird are of a dingy white ; the body ferru- 
 ginous, with a large, diamond-shaped, white 
 patch on the belly, which gives it a singular 
 appearance when flying ; this spot forming a 
 strong contrast with the rest of the plumage. 
 The tail is forked. The male has a red gill 
 hanging below the throat. The talons re- 
 semble those of an hawk, connected with a foot 
 which is partially webbed. We are told that 
 these creatures are so fierce and mischievous 
 that they often perch on the masts of ships, and 
 delight to tear in pieces the vanos. While en- 
 gaged in this work they are so eager and heed- 
 less of anything else, that it is not difficult to 
 approach and knock them down. In general 
 they soar very high, watching for flying-fishes, 
 on which they pounce with incredible velocity. 
 
 According to our captain, who has had much 
 experience in the favourite fishery of these 
 seas, the whales are considerably under the in- 
 
 fluence of the moon, as to the course which they 
 take and their appearance above water ; the full 
 and change of that luminary being the periods 
 at which they may be sought with most pro- 
 bability of success. Indeed lunar influence 
 seems to occasion phenomena of a very curious 
 nature. It is confidently affirmed that it is not 
 unusual for men on board a ship, while lying in 
 the moonlight, with their faces exposed to the 
 beams, to have their muscles spasmodically dis- 
 torted and their mouths drawn awry affections 
 from which some have never recovered ; others 
 have been so injured in their sight as to lose it 
 for several months. Fish, when taken from the 
 sea- water and hung up in the light of the moon 
 during a night, have acquired such deleterious 
 qualities, that when eaten the next day the in- 
 fected food has produced violent sickness and 
 excruciating pains. We have conversed with 
 people who have been themselves disordered 
 after having partaken of such fish. It is ha- 
 zardous to touch on this subject ; we only repeat 
 what we have heard from those who ought to be 
 believed, and who would not affirm tint of 
 which they themselves were not persuaded. 
 The statements are left to be confirmed or dis- 
 proved by others who have better opportun it y t h:m 
 we had of ascertaining their foundation in fart.* 
 
 Sept. 5. The captain has been very anxiously 
 examining his charts of these seas, because we 
 are now in a situation from which we mu-t pro- 
 ceed from the east to Tahiti, in which din rtioi 
 lie so many small islands, and coral reel-. 
 entitle the section which they occupy to the 
 name of the " Dangerous Archipelago ;" and the 
 peril of navigating it may be much ; 
 our coming thither about the equinox. 
 
 This evening, about seven o'clock, a fiery 
 meteor was discerned from the deck, travertin,' 
 the heavens due west, and seeming to sink into 
 the ocean at the horizon. It continued visible 
 nearly eight minutes, and had about twehe de- 
 grees of elevation when first discovered. Its 
 course was steady and majestic ; in apparent 
 magnitude greater than that of the planet Jupi- 
 ter, and in colour deeper than that of Mars. \. - 
 it descended towards the sea it had the glowing 
 hue of intensely-heated iron. No train, nor 
 any radiations, diverged from its clear and well- 
 defined disk. The sky was remarkably serene 
 at the time, with the exception of a few A cry 
 light, thin clouds, behind one of which it was 
 obscured for some moments. It was followed 
 within an hour by thick dark clouds, and tor- 
 rents of heavy rain fell during the night. 
 
 Sept. 8. After laying to some hours last niirht 
 to give the whales which we had recently seen 
 an opportunity of getting a-head of us, in which 
 direction some of them were going, we a^ain 
 set sail, in hopes of coming up with them by 
 break of day ; but we were disappointed, and 
 
 * In the Baptist Missionary Accounts, No. XV., we find 
 the following passage : " Hi 1 who has slept in the moon 
 light is heavy when he awakes, and as if deprived of hi> 
 sense*, and, as it were, oppressed by the weisjht of the 
 dampness which is spread over his'whole body." This 
 is stated by the writer m proof of the fact which he 
 that " the moonbeams have a pernicious influence iu the 
 East," if not generally in tropical climates. 
 
THE PLANET VENUS WATER-SPOUTS. 
 
 13 
 
 saw no more of the shoal. This we, who were 
 but passengers, regretted the more, because we 
 feared that the sailors might be disheartened, 
 after being so long from home without having 
 made any capture. The officers and the whole 
 crew, in these expeditions, are interested in the 
 result of the voyage, depending upon the cargo 
 which they can take back for the reward of their 
 labours and perils. The owners of the vessels 
 reserve a certain portion of the oil, &c., ob- 
 tained, as a remuneration for the expense of 
 fitting out, risk, wear and tear, &c. ; the remain- 
 der is then divided among the ship's company, 
 each according to his rank, as previously agreed 
 upon. This reciprocity of interest in the suc- 
 cess of a voyage a voyage often lasting three 
 years gives energy and boldness in the prose- 
 cution of their common object which probably 
 no other principle could effect. 
 
 The captain shot a tropic bird (Phaeton ccthe- 
 rius) ; it was of the red-billed species. When 
 brought 011 board, being only wounded, it was 
 exceedingly fierce, biting everything that came 
 near it. The two long red feathers in the tail 
 of this bird is a remarkable appendage, and 
 small as they aje, conjecture is puzzled to assign 
 any use for them in the economy of the pos- 
 sessor. The planet Venus shone out this even- 
 ing with a beauty and splendour incomparably 
 excelling her loveliest appearance in our native 
 land, of which we were so often reminded by 
 those luminaries of the heaven which are com- 
 mon to every region of the earth, and familiar 
 from infancy to every eye that owns the light. 
 
 Sept. 9. (Lord's day.) The public sen-ices 
 on deck have been well attended, and uninter- 
 rupted by temptations from the sea, in the forms 
 of sperm Avhales. \Ye observe, with pleasure, 
 that those seamen and boys to whom Bibles or 
 Testaments have been presented have care- 
 fully covered the backs with canvass, and are 
 frequently employed in reading, not only this best 
 of books, but religious tracts also, which from 
 time to time have been put into their hands. 
 
 Sept. 11. There has been exhibited the rare 
 speetacle of a lunar rainbow this night, off the 
 starboard, and towards the north-west. It pre- 
 sented a complete semicircle for a few minutes, 
 and for several moments was attended by a 
 secondary arch above. The green and orange 
 were the prevalent hues. 
 
 Sept. 12. This morning we were gratified 
 with the sight of several water-spouts, and as 
 they were at sufficient distances to forbid the 
 apprehension of danger, we could view them 
 without terror, and leisurely indulge our philo- 
 sophical curiosity. The first two that we per- 
 ceived were diffused and ill-defined, each having 
 the appearance of a local shower of rain. The 
 third, however, was perfect in form, and fully 
 realised the expectations which we had con- 
 ceived of these singular phenomena. It ap- 
 peared in the north-east, a-head of the ship, 
 and, as we presumed, about six miles off. The 
 atmosphere was rather sultry ; the thermometer 
 stood at 77. Many white clouds were scattered 
 abroad, with a few dark and lowering ones, which 
 in England would have been regarded as signs 
 
 of thunder. There was but little wind at the 
 time, and we could observe that heavy showers 
 were falling at a distance. The cloud with 
 which the water-spout communicated was black 
 and highly charged with aqueous vapour, pretty 
 widely stretched, and probably half a mile in 
 elevation. From the bottom of this dense mass, 
 which was jagged and uneven, the water-spout 
 reached downward to the sea, not in a direct 
 line, but at the upper part sloping towards the 
 north, making an angle of about sixty degrees 
 with the horizon, for nearly one-third of its 
 whole length ; and thence striking perpendicu- 
 larly to the surface of the water. At the place 
 where it communicated with the cloud the 
 diameter was the largest, being, at the distance 
 from which we viewed it, of the apparent size of 
 the trunk of a great oak-tree, cut off imme- 
 diately at the root and inverted ; of course its 
 real dimensions must have been very con- 
 siderable. The column tapered gradually to the 
 bottom, where its diameter might equal half 
 that of the upper end. One-third from the top 
 it was compact and well shapen to the eye, as 
 traced on a back -ground of white clouds, which 
 made the outline more conspicuous, the edges 
 being comparatively dark, and the central part 
 lighter by several shades. The lower end was 
 less distinct, yet visible down to the water, 
 notwithstanding the haziness near the horizon. 
 We watched it for a quarter of an hour : how 
 long it had held together previously we could 
 not tell, but it was completely formed when 
 discovered from our vessel. 
 
 This curious phenomenon began to disperse 
 from the bottom, gradually disappearing upwards, 
 till there remained only the shape of an inverted 
 cone attached to the cloud ; and this continued 
 several minutes after the pillar had vanished. 
 The vapours, into which it had been visibly 
 drawn up, being then surcharged, broke asunder, 
 and poured down a deluge of dark rain upon 
 the spot where the apparition had stood. As 
 we were going in the direction of this danger, 
 the ship was put about to avoid coming nearer, 
 for such a body of water falling upon it would 
 probably have been destructive. Such exhala- 
 tions may be sometimes dissipated by firing a 
 gun towards them. The breeze increased after 
 the water-spout had disappeared. The evening 
 was very fine. In the trade winds it is no un- 
 common thing to see two strata of clouds, one 
 above the other, sailing in contrary directions. 
 This evening, however, we witnessed distinctly 
 three strata, the upper and lower going rapidly 
 northward, and the middle one southward. 
 
 Sept. 13. A man-of-Avar hawk, many tropic 
 birds, and innumerable porpoises, gamboling be- 
 fore, behind, and on either side, have attracted 
 our attention to-day, but no sperm-whales. 
 The long delay is discouraging to our crew, who 
 may imagine there is some truth in the old say- 
 ing among whale-catchers, " There is no luck 
 while a woman is on board." Most probably, 
 though they are too civil to say so, they heartily 
 wish to be rid of us, by a safe deliverance at 
 our desired haven, in the Pacific Isles. The 
 superstitious notions of mariners are inveterate, 
 
14 
 
 SAILORS' DREAMS. INDICATIONS OF LAND. 
 
 and some of them grotesque enough. They lay 
 great stress upon their dreams (and every sailor 
 dreams, from the captain down to the cabin- 
 hoy), often telling them one to another, and to 
 the passengers, at the same time most anxiously 
 asking for the interpretation of them. We have 
 been repeatedly entertained, at breakfast and 
 dinner-times, with narrations by our own in- 
 telligent officers of their dreams, some of which 
 have been strange and fearful indeed, and cal- 
 culated to quail the stoutest heart that believes 
 such things realities the actual experiences of 
 the soul herself in sleep, or prognostications of 
 wlnt must befal her awake and in the body. 
 
 Sept. 14. A booby (a variety of the pelicanus 
 sula) was caught, which differs considerably 
 from those of this species that we had seen and 
 have mentioned before. It measured, from the 
 point of the bill to the end of the tail, two feet 
 eight inches. The bill was four inches in 
 length, serrated half way, straight, but a little 
 bent at the tip, and of a yellowish-grey colour. 
 The eyes, which are hright with a very light- 
 tinctured iris, being placed at the upper part of 
 the bill, where it is quite destitute of plumage, 
 gives this singular fowl an aspect so vacant as 
 at first sight to justify its name ; especially as 
 pe of the heak extends backwards beyond 
 the sockets of the eyes. We were much struck 
 with the uttor simplicity of this bird vshieh we 
 had obtained, having an opportunity of observ- 
 ing its manners. It had received no injury that 
 we could discover, except the destruction of 
 one eye, which the shot had entered ; it fell the 
 instant it was struck, and was picked up by 
 one of the hoats without difficulty. As soon as 
 ii \v;is plaeetl on deck the creature seemed per- 
 fectly at home, and without fear, among 
 ers. Though it had so recently suffered the 
 loss of ; ,il must have been suffering 
 
 from the wound, it presently laid its head upon 
 its back, between its wings, and went to sleep 
 as if nothing had been amiss; nay, its slumbers 
 were so sound, that th. : -on put his 
 
 mouth to its ear, and hauled with all his might, 
 it did not awake. After remaining with us all 
 night, without any attempt to escape, in the 
 morning it was placed upon a boat at the stern 
 of the ship, whence, it might have flown off at 
 its pleasure ; it chose, however, to stay there, 
 and began to divss and oil its feathers with the 
 most unaffected composure, as if it had been 
 bred and trained up among us. When we ap- 
 proached too near, or touched it, though it 
 would bite sharply in self-defence, it seemed to 
 have no notion of retreating. Afterwards, when 
 it was thrown overboard, it coolly washed itself 
 for a few minutes, then took wing without dif- 
 ficulty, and steered its course exactly towards 
 Dog Island, which lay not far distant, and 
 v\here the booby family abound. 
 
 Sept. 16. (Lord's day.) Mr. Tyerman, in the 
 forenoon, preached a sermon peculiarly address- 
 ed to young persons, of which class our crew is 
 principally composed, from Matt. xix. 16, &c. 
 " What good thing shall I do that 1 may inherit 
 eternal life t" &c. Mr. Jones preached in the 
 afternoon from Isa. xxvi. 24 : " Thou wilt keep 
 
 him in perfect peace, whose mind is stayed on 
 Thee." We have reason to hope that our feeble 
 instructions have not been bestowed in vain 
 upon our companions ; several who were at 
 first very reprobate seem to be much reformed. 
 
 It is now nearly four months since we saw 
 land, or (with the exception of two) any other 
 ship than our own any other human beings 
 than ourselves. All this time we have been in 
 the centre of a circle of ocean, whose circum- 
 ference may be a hundred miles, under a canopy 
 of sky, diversified by day with ever-varying 
 clouds, and beautiful by night with those re- 
 splendent stars and planets which are seen no 
 where to so much advantage as from the plane 
 of the great deep. Every instant the centre of 
 our floating circle has been changing place, 
 while the horizon-ring has moved with it in 
 exact agreement, and at the same invariable 
 distance. This idea, and the image com 
 with it, reminds us of Him, concerning whom 
 the ancients said, " His centre is < 
 his circumference no where." S. lat. 16 59'. 
 W. long. 133. Thermometer 77. 
 
 A magnificent meteor was seen this evening, 
 about eleven o'clock. Its apparent diameter 
 was equal to that of the moon, and during its 
 appearance the whole horizon, sea, ai; 
 were lighted up like mid-day. It com:: 
 its progress from the zenith, eastward, d, 
 ing with great velocity, and being visible about 
 fourteen seconds, when it exploded into 
 twelve fragments, each of which for an 
 was as bright as the planet Venn*, and immedi- 
 ately afterwards the whole A 
 
 Sept. 18. Many small white l>inl- 
 been fluttering about us this morning, we j 
 that we must be near some land ; of wh: 
 deed, there had been other usual in!i 
 yesterday. On account of the impeifections of 
 all our charts, the captain deems i; 
 send a boat a-head, with a light on ' 
 ni_rht time, about two miles in advance, t< 
 signals if any reefs or islands should be per- 
 
 these seas being crowded, in som< 
 with sunken rocks and coral promii 
 a star on the face of the dark ocean, thi- ! 
 torch glides on before, and pn 
 an assurance of safety or a warning of d 
 
 Sept. 19. The first green island of tl 
 saluted our view about sunrise ; and how wel- 
 come it was to our hearts, how lovely to our 
 eyes, they only can know who have endured 
 the captivity of months on board a narrow ship, 
 ever floating, yet never in appearance approxi- 
 mating the harbour, which thought can 
 in a moment, and there linger and weai 
 with looking, in imagination, from the shore, 
 for the first glimpse of the expected vessel ; as 
 though the spirit could spring to its destination 
 at once, and wait, for days and weeks to.. 
 the slow arrival of the body. Such romantic, 
 yet perfectly natural feelings, they must have 
 experienced, who, like us, have traversed thou- 
 sands of leagues of watery waste, with their 
 whole desires towards the haven whither they 
 were bound, and yet, only knowing by lapse of 
 time that the space between them arid their 
 
RESOLUTION AND OTHER ISLANDS. ARRIVAL AT TAHITI. 
 
 16 
 
 destination was diminishing in proportion. The 
 sea-birds below, and the stars above, changing 
 according to the latitudes which we crossed, had 
 hitherto been the chief tokens and evidences to 
 our sight of progress on our voyage over the 
 monotonous abyss ; one horizon of water being 
 as undistinguishable from another as two hemi- 
 spheres of sky. We gazed, therefore, with un- 
 satisfied delight on this first nameless spot of 
 earth on the face of the Pacific, which we had 
 discovered, and on which (so little explored as 
 yet are these regions) probably no eye of Euro- 
 pean had ever rested before, and perhaps no hu- 
 man eye which could see, in its existence and 
 productions, the being and beneficence of the 
 Creator and Upholder of all things. This is- 
 land was about five miles in length, well wooded, 
 and indicating the climate under which it flou- 
 rished by the cocoa-nut and palm-trees with 
 which it was adorned. The land was flat, and 
 surrounded by a coral reef, on the south-east and 
 north- west of which the waves broke tremen- 
 dously, forbidding all approach. We could per- 
 ceive many of the natives running along the 
 white shore. They were nearly naked, and 
 seemed to look very earnestly but hesitatingly 
 towards us, whether they should put out in their 
 canoes, of which there were several on the mar- 
 gin of the beach. One carried a long staff, pro- 
 bably a spear, which he often brandished in his 
 hand. We find no distinct account of this 
 
 by former voyagers. 
 
 Sept. '-><). Early tins morning land was again 
 announced from the mast-head, as being under 
 our larboard-bow. It proved to be Resolution 
 Island, disco* .plain Cook, and named 
 
 alter his ship. It is smallj and not ascertained 
 to be inhabited. Doubtful Island, first seen by 
 M. de Bougainyille, next presented itself; it is 
 of considerable extent : we observed smoke 
 
 In various places from among the I 
 
 -ed, at the distance of seven miles in the 
 evening. Our hearts yearned over the benight- 
 ed people of these sequestei-ed tracts, umMiid 
 by the dayspring from on high, while in low 
 accents lost amidst the murmur of the waves, 
 except to that ear with which the spirit listens 
 to the still soft waitings of humanity, wherever 
 
 e uttered we seemed to hear the forlorn 
 inhabitants saying, " No man careth for our 
 souls!" In the name of the Society that sent 
 us, in the name of the Lord, whom we serve, 
 our hearts responded, "God be merciful unto you, 
 and bless you, that his name may be known 
 throughout your islands, and his saving health 
 experienced by all the dwellers upon earth." 
 
 Sept. 21. Having lain to for the night (being 
 now in the maze of the Dangerous Archipelago), 
 at day-light land was again discovered ; and as 
 no name was found for it, nor its existence 
 traced in the charts, we called it Tuscan Island, 
 from our vessel. It lies S. lat. 17 22'. W. 
 long. 143 20'. In the afternoon, the captain 
 sailed towards the shore in one of the boats, and 
 haili-d the natives, who were assembled to gaze 
 at the strange spectacle of an European ship on 
 their lone waters. Several of them came off in 
 their little canoes, two of them ventured, though 
 
 timidly, into his boat. He gave them some tri- 
 fling matters, and they presented him with two 
 large pearl oysters in return. 
 
 Sept. 22. To another undescribed island, 
 which we passed to-day, we gave the name of 
 Birnie, in honour of the worthy owner of that 
 ship in which we were enjoying a free passage 
 to the scene of our appointment. * 
 
 Sept. 23. We passed the curious scries of 
 islets,- linked together, on which captain Cook 
 conferred the appropriate appellation of Chain 
 Island. The young Tahitian (as we have been 
 wont to suppose him), Robert, who came out 
 with us, viewing this group with remarkable 
 emotion, was asked the reason ; when he in- 
 formed us that his father and mother resided 
 there ; also that he himself was born there, 
 though he had lived a long time in Tahiti. 
 
 Sept. 24. About one o'clock P.M., our cap- 
 tain discerned the loom of Tahiti over the lav- 
 board-bow. This was a dark black shade in- 
 dicating its site ; and as we were advancing at 
 the rate of nine knots an hour, we hoped to 
 anchor in Matavai Bay by sunset. But the 
 wind, which had blown hard all day, increased 
 so much in violence towards evening that, wo 
 were reluctantly compelled to stand off from 
 the land, and lay to for the night; the atmo- 
 sphere, moreover, being very hazy, and frequent 
 heavy showers descending. 
 
 Sept. 25. Tahiti, " the desire of our eyes," 
 came upon us at sunrise, in all its grandeur and 
 loveliness : more grand in the height of its 
 mountains, and more lovely in the luxuriance 
 of its valleys, than our imaginations had ever 
 pictured it from the descriptions of former 
 visitors and Missionaries. We had before us, 
 in exquisitely undulated outline, the two pe- 
 ninsulas of which Tahiti consists; the whole 
 rendered more striking by the shadowy ob- 
 scurity which clouds of different hues and den- 
 sity cast over it. In a few hours, as we drew 
 nearer, the beautiful region unveiled itself in 
 all its enchanting variety of hills and plains, 
 woods and waters : hills green up to their 
 peaks, twice the height of Snowdon ; plains 
 spaciously opening from between the high 
 lands towards the shore, where the dwellings 
 of the population were thickly sprinkled, under 
 the shade of scattered trees; woods of gi:..aitic 
 growth and tropical ramification, so different 
 from British forest-scenery ; and water burst- 
 ing in brilliant cascades from the rocky emi- 
 nences, then winding in rivulets through the 
 valleys to the sea. 
 
 About eleven o'clock in the forenoon the first 
 canoe came off towards us, for which the cap- 
 tain hove to. This small piece of excavated 
 bread-fruit tree, balanced by an outrigger (that 
 is, a piece of purau wood, lashed to the ends 
 of two smaller pieces, which project from the 
 sides of the vessel), amused us by the simplicity 
 of its construction, and the dexterity with which 
 it was managed by the two natives who oc- 
 cupied it ; though, the sea being rather rough, 
 we were inexperienced enough in their tactics 
 to feel considerable apprehension for their 
 safety. They proved to be a chief of a neigh- 
 
16 
 
 ARRIVAL AT TAHITI. POMARE'S RESIDENCE. 
 
 bouring district and one of his followers, bring- 
 ing bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, plantains, and 
 lemons, which they hoped would be acceptable 
 to the strangers. Our visitors were neatly ap- 
 parelled in native cloth, and their modest and 
 courteous demeanour exceedingly engaged our 
 attention. Great numbers of their countrymen 
 followed, in canoes of various sizes, from which 
 they poured upon our deck ; others, with their 
 little vessels, lined the passage by which we 
 were to enter the port of Matavai, while mul- 
 titudes of both sexes and all ages ranged them- 
 selves in groups on Point Venus (the place 
 whence the transit of the planet of that name 
 across the sun was observed on captain Cook's 
 first voyage), and along the adjacent reef that 
 runs out into the sea to witness and welcome 
 our arrival. At length, by the Providence which 
 had thus helped us, we came to anchor in the 
 bay, after narrowly escaping shipwreck, even 
 at the last moment, by keeping too closely to the 
 Dolphin Rock. Among the chiefs who had 
 come on board and crowded our cabin, one, 
 according to the custom of the country, chose 
 Mr. Tyerman, and another Mr. Bennet, for his 
 tayo, or friend, and desired a return of similar 
 acknowledgment on their part. As a charac- 
 teristic signal of our arrival we had hoisted the 
 Missionary flag, which had been prepared on 
 our voyage, having the insignia, on a white 
 ground, of a dove flying, with an olive branch 
 in its bill, enclosed in a circle made by a ser- 
 pent with the tail in its mouth, and this fenced 
 with a triangle, on the sides of which was the 
 motto, " Glory to God in the highest, on earth 
 peace, good will to men." By this our brethren 
 on the island had recognised the expected De- 
 putation, and informed the natives of our cha- 
 racter and object. Mr. Nott and Mr. "WiUm. 
 the Missionaries at this station, came on board, 
 and most cordially received us as hoped-for 
 partakers and helpers of their joy. After 
 dinner we landed, and arrangements were made 
 by these kind friends for our accommodation in 
 their dwellings during our stay in this neigh- 
 bourhood. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Pomare's Residence Account of a League of Pacification 
 among the Natives- Stv.umci- in Tahiti- I'puparu's 
 House Cocoa-nut Water Exotic Trees 1 
 Natives St. Luke's Gospel transcribed by 1'oinan 
 Vi-it to Pape ete Preparations lor the Sabbath Sin- 
 gular Consequence of a Mr-take in Captain Wilson's 
 Sea-reckoning First Sabbath at Mata\ai Prevalence 
 of Infanticide in former times Canoe-making Fish- 
 ing Incident by which the Gospel \\as carried to 
 Kaiatea Horrors of Idolatry Pomare Spirituous 
 I. iquors Progress of Christianity at Raivuvai Tahi- 
 tian Supper Tabued Trees. 
 
 SEPT. 26. After bringing some of our packages" 
 on shore, Captain Stayers, haying leamt that 
 there was better anchorage in Pape ete, or 
 AVilks's harbour, eight miles to the west, pro- 
 ceeded thither. 
 
 Kiii^ Pomare, we found, was residing on the 
 adjacent island of Eimeo when we arrived. 
 One of his houses standing near Mr. Nott's, 
 the latter accompanied us to see it. This struc- 
 
 ture, about a hundred feet in length by forty in 
 breadth, is nothing more than a thatched roof, 
 supported by wooden pillars tapering from the 
 base to the top, leaning a little inward, and not 
 more than eight feet high. There were umities 
 (a kind of wooden dishes), baskets, bundles of 
 cloth, and various articles of domestic furniture, 
 hanging up under the roof. On the floor, which 
 was covered with grass, several bedsteads were 
 standing. Near this large shed (for such it ap- 
 peared to us) there was a smaller dwelling, the 
 walls of which were framed of slight bamboos 
 fixed perpendicularly in the ground ; and there 
 was a door at each end. "When the king is 
 here, it is in this small place of retirement that 
 Mr. Nott and he meet for the purpose of trans- 
 lating portions of the sacred Scriptures ; and 
 here, from day to day, have they often been 
 employed, in settling the text and copying out 
 the completed portions, from morning till niirht. 
 The king is remarkably 'fond of writing ; lie 
 was the first who learned the art, and is, pro- 
 bably^the greatest proficient in it among all his 
 countrymen: when he writes he lies down mi 
 the floor, with a support for his chest, and a 
 desk before him. Between this sequestered 
 apartment and the larger dwelling are courts 
 belonging to each. Here a \rr\ interest inir 
 scene took place, about six weeks before our 
 arri\al. A number of the Ana people, or in- 
 habitants of Chain Island, and Pomutaus (both 
 subjects of Pomare) assembled b 
 tribes had long indulged towards each other the 
 most rancorous hatred, and their islands lieinij 
 adjacent they were continually at war, in con- 
 ducting which neither side gave quarter. The 
 king determined, if possible, to subdue this 
 enmity, and establish permanent peace ! 
 them. He therefore convened a meeting of the 
 chiefs and principal personages, unarmed, on 
 both sides. These were separately ranged in 
 the two courts above mentioned, divid. 
 low fence. There stood Pomare between the 
 two parties, and in an impressive speech ex- 
 horted them to reconciliation. His arguments 
 and his authority prevailed, and the represent- 
 atives of both islands entered into an agr> 
 upon the spot, that there should be no more 
 war between their respective people, but that 
 friendly intercourse should take place of per- 
 petual strife. It was laid down, upon mutual 
 understanding, that if two or three canoes, in 
 company, arrived from one island to the other, 
 their visit should not be regarded as an indi- 
 cation of hostility, but if eight or ten came to- 
 gether evil intentions should be suspected, and 
 their landing resisted." Thus the treaty, simple 
 in its object, and plain in its conditio: 
 ratified at once, and the issue promises to be 
 happy. 
 
 Near the king's two residences a number of 
 persons were living in small hovels, natives of a 
 distant island, who had been driven by a storm 
 on this coast, and received with the hospitality 
 which their pitiable circumstances needed. 
 Though of the same colour as the Tahitians 
 these strangers differ considerably from the 
 latter hi language and manners. They are not 
 
UPUPARU'S HOUSE DRESS OF THE NATIVES. 
 
 17 
 
 tatooed, and in 'all respects seem an inferior 
 caste of savages. We could not find that they 
 either profess any form of idolatry, or have any 
 idea of a Supreme Being. They are now learn- 
 ing the Tahitian dialect, both to speak and to 
 read it ; they regularly attend public worship ; 
 and should any of them be made rightly ac- 
 quainted with the gospel, they may become 
 teachers of it to their countrymen when they 
 shall be returned to their homes. As by the 
 agency of storms population had been carried 
 to remote islands of these seas in ages past, so, 
 in the wisdom of Divine Providence, storms 
 have been occasionally made instrumental in 
 extending the knowledge of the gospel, by cast- 
 ing heathen barks upon coasts already evan- 
 gelised, as well as by diverting European Mis- 
 sionaries or Gentile converts from their course 
 on temporary voyages, and detaining them on 
 barbarous shores, where, in the sequel, they 
 have planted churches of Christ. 
 
 In the progress of our walk along the beach 
 we came to the house of Upuparu, the chief 
 who had engaged Mr. Tyerman to be his tayo, 
 or friend. He is related to the royal family, 
 and is, moreover, secretary to the Tahitian 
 Missionary Society. When we entered, he and 
 his wife, a young woman about seventeen years 
 of age, and several of his attendants the chiefs 
 always having a number of such in their train 
 immediately seated themselves cross-legged 
 on the floor. The house was about a hundred 
 and twenty feet in length, having one side sepa- 
 rated from the other, and partitioned into small 
 bed-rooms for the use of the family. The re- 
 maining half formed an open court from end 
 to end. Many of the neighbours having flocked 
 in after us to gratify their curiosity by looking 
 at the visitors, si'atrd themselves without cere- 
 mony, as though they were at home. At our 
 request,Upuparu's attendants fetched their New 
 Testaments, out of which they read sundry 
 portions, verse by verse, alternately, with fluency 
 and .emphasis ; answering also with great rea- 
 diness such questions arising out of the context 
 as Mr. Nott put to thorn. Wo addressed a few 
 sentences to them through the latter, as our 
 interpreter, on the great love of God, manifested 
 towards them in sending the gospel of his Son 
 to their islands. A dish ofpo2)oi, a preparation 
 of bananas, mixed with cocoa-nut water, some- 
 thing like pudding, was now handed tons, in 
 clean cocoa-shells. Though a favourite kind 
 of food here, we did not much relish it, having 
 yet to learn to like the luxuries of the South 
 Seas. 
 
 Wo afterwards prolonged our ramble nearly 
 two miles towards tho extremity of the district 
 of Matavai, accompanied by groups of natives, 
 who joined us from time to time, eager to have 
 the pleasure of carrying our umbrellas, or doing 
 any kind office in their power. Being thirsty, 
 we requested some pape-haari, or cocoa-nut 
 wator, whereupon two or three of them ran to 
 the nearest trees, which they climbed with sur- 
 prising facility, by clasping the stems with their 
 arms, and pressing their naked feet against the 
 bark ; and thus these tall and branchless stems 
 
 were apparently ascended with almost as much 
 ease as they walked on level ground. Presently 
 several fine nuts were brought to us, the husks 
 of which the men tore off with their teeth ; 
 then, having punctured one end of the shell, 
 we were each presented with a draught of this 
 most delicious beverage for appeasing thirst in a 
 tropical climate. On our return we passed 
 through a rich grove of orange, lime, tamarind, 
 and other fruit-trees, planted five -and- twenty 
 years ago by the first missionaries, and now in 
 their prime. Here stood the house which they 
 built after their landing, and occupied for some 
 time, while they were sowing in tears the pre- 
 cious seed of the word, apparently on the barren 
 and unimprovable rock alone : that structure 
 was afterwards burnt during one of the fre- 
 quent wars, and no other has been since reared 
 on its site. 
 
 All the remainder of the day Mr. Nott's 
 dwelling was thronged by the natives, who 
 came to see and welcome us with their national 
 salutation la-ora-tia every blessing be upon 
 you! Without hesitation, and in the most 
 affable manner, many came in and seated them- 
 selves cross-legged upon the floor, while others 
 stood at the door, or peeped through the win- 
 dow at us. This, it seems, is the custom of the 
 country, and considered no way obtrusive. We 
 asked them to sing one of their hymns, which 
 they did very harmoniously, to a tune familiar 
 to our ears. When they had gratified their 
 curiosity, and not less manifested their good 
 will, they quietly went away, one by one, 
 others in succession supplying their places till 
 evening. 
 
 Most of the men wore no other dress than a 
 piece of native cloth wound about the loins, 
 and passed between the legs. Some had a 
 loose mantle of the same thrown over their 
 shoulders ; and a few were more closely covered 
 with an upper garment called a tibuta, which 
 is a length of similar stuff, with a hole cut in 
 the middle, through which the head appears, 
 while the two ends hang down before and 
 behind as low as the mid-leg, the sides being 
 loose and open. The women were clad much 
 in the same style with a girdle sufficiently 
 broad to serve for a petticoat, a shawl-like 
 cloth gracefully gathered round the shoulders, 
 and in general a. bonnet, made after the Eng- 
 lish fashion, of platted grass. 
 
 Mr. Nott, among other curiosities, showed 
 us a manuscript copy of the translated Gospel 
 of St. Luke, executed by King Pom arc in a 
 very neat, small hand.* It was from this copy 
 that the first edition of that Evangelist was 
 printed. Mr. Nott stated that he had been 
 greatly aided by Pomare in making that version, 
 the king being better acquainted with the Ta- 
 hitian language, and its capabilities, than most 
 of his subjects. This is probably an unparal- 
 leled instance, of a prince and that no mo:m 
 one, for he had the power of life and death, and 
 
 * This royal transcript of tho Evangelist's work w;ts 
 
 G-rscntrd to tin- I'.ritish :in<l ForiM-rii I'.ihlc Sor : c(y l.y 
 r. Beimet, in the year 1830, after his return to ling- 
 laud. 
 
 C 
 
18 MEETING WITH MISSIONARIES PREI> ARATION FOR THE SABBATH. 
 
 his will was law in all cases throughout his 
 dominions devoting time and talents to the 
 slow and painful labour of translating the 
 sacred Scriptures, and copying out the work 
 for the press with his own hand, that he might 
 be the means of bestowing upon his people the 
 greatest earthly boon which God has bestowed 
 upon man. The Gospel of St. Luke was 
 indeed the first volume ever printed in any 
 language of the South Sea Islands, except a 
 small spelling-book, necessary to prepare the 
 way for it by teaching the natives to read their 
 own tongue. 
 
 Sept. 27. We all sailed to Pape etc, Wilks's 
 Harbour, in the Tuscan, where our property 
 was landed, and lodged on the premises of Mr. 
 Crook, at that station. This day we had the 
 satisfaction to meet several of the Missionaries, 
 with their partners and children, namely, Mr. 
 and Mrs. Ellis, and their family, from Hua- 
 hine ; Mr. and Mrs. Williams, and their infant, 
 from Raiatea ; also Messrs. Bourne and Darl- 
 ing, from Bunaauia. A meeting being specially 
 appointed for the purpose of receiving the 
 deputation, and the persons accompanying us, 
 we delivered our official credentials :md declar- 
 ed, each in a few words, our joy and gratitude 
 on having, by the blessing of God, arrived 
 safely at the scene of their labours, after our 
 long voyage. The brethren then passed a 
 resolution, recording their pleasure in behold- 
 ing us as the representative's of the Society at 
 home ; also expressing their hope that benefi- 
 cial effects, to the cause of the gospel here, 
 would be the result of our embassy. They 
 passed another resolution of cordial thanks to 
 the directors, for the very seasonable and valu- 
 able supplies, c., which had been sent out to 
 them through us. We soon felt ourselves truly 
 happy and at home among these pious and 
 devoted ser\ants of the Lord, who, possessing 
 a remarkable diversity of gifts and dispositions, 
 appear to us well qualified to promote the cause 
 of the gospel in this new and interesting 
 field. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Crook have nine children ; yet 
 the comfort of their habitation, the order in it 
 in-doors, and the behaviour of every member 
 of their family, reflect the highest credit on 
 their prudence and economy. We have here 
 had a good opportunity of remarking how 
 much the skill and ingenuity of Missionaries 
 are called into exercise, to supply the lack of 
 many European conveniences and accommo- 
 dations. But though we had perceived much 
 admirable foresight in managing affairs during 
 the day, we still wondered where and how we 
 were all to be lodged for the night. Without 
 any bustle, and seemingly with little difficulty 
 on the part of Mrs. Crook, sufficiently commo- 
 dious berths were found for every one of us 
 thirty-two persons, young and old ; and a 
 peaceful night followed a gladsome day. 
 
 Sept. 28. We went on board the Tuscan 
 again this morning, for some packages which 
 we wished to be conveyed to Matavai. In 
 setting out, we were delayed some time, while 
 the natives who were to accompany us to the 
 
 latter place collected their provision of cocoa- 
 nuts and bread-fruit for the Sabbath, as they 
 were not to return hither till Monday. This 
 (our Friday) was their Saturday, and it is the 
 universal practice of all the Christian natives of 
 these islands to prepare their Sunday's food on 
 the last day of the week Not a fire is lighted, 
 neither flesh nor fruit is baked, not a tree is 
 climbed, nor a canoe seen on the water, nor a 
 journey by land performed, on God's holy day ; 
 religion religion alone is the business and 
 delight of these simple-minded people on the 
 Sabbath. 
 
 The men having laid in their stores, we 
 proceeded, in Mr. Ellis's boat, on our little 
 cruise along the coast. Where we could see 
 the bottom of the water, the ground was co- 
 vered with the most beautiful corals, of different 
 colours, and singularly diversified forms ; some- 
 times rising so near to the surface that our keel 
 grazed upon their crests ; then again we sailed 
 over depths unfathomable to the eye. Towards 
 evening we landed safely at Mr. Nott's, in .Ma- 
 tavai Bay. 
 
 Sept. 30. On Friday night we retired to 
 rest, but waked not till Xunduij morn ina, though 
 the interval allowed for sleep had not been 
 longer than usual! This was the consequence 
 of a miscalculation by Captain James Wilson, 
 and the first Missionaries who settled here. 
 Coming from the east, and keeping up the 
 reckoning with which they set out, they gained 
 a day, instead of dropping one, not bearing in 
 mind that as London comes under the meridian 
 ten hours earlier than Tahiti, which is K>0" of 
 longitude to the west, the day, at the latter plaee, 
 is proportionably later. Some inc;>n\enicnce 
 has been suffered from this mistake, since the 
 intercourse with Europeans has become more 
 frequent than formerly here; but not so much 
 as to induce the Missionaries to correct it, at 
 the hazard of occasioning worse confusion in 
 the minds of a people to whom it would pro- 
 bably be difficult to make the change intel- 
 ligible. 
 
 This has been to us, at Matavai, a Sabbath 
 of peculiar enjoyment and sanctity. A i siinri-e, 
 we went to the chapel on the beach, near Mr. 
 Nott's house a neat structure, having bamboo 
 walls, thatched with palm-leaves, furnished 
 with benches made of bread-fruit-tree planks, 
 and capable of holding about four hundred 
 persons. It is now used only as a school and 
 pr:;\ er-meeting house. On our arrival, we 
 found the place filled with natives, of both 
 sexes, and various ages. They were all kneel- 
 ing, while one of them was offering up pnn er 
 in the. 'most fervent and devout manner. 
 Scarcely a head was lifted up when we entered, 
 and stepped as softly as might be to a place 
 near the person who was officiating at the time. 
 When he had finished his address to the Deity, 
 he gave out a hymn, which was sung with much 
 animation by the people. He then read a 
 portion of St. John's Gospel, many of those who 
 were present producing their Testaments, and 
 following his voice with their eyes on the words 
 of the book. Another prayer was then offered 
 
FIRST SABBATH AT MATAVAI PREVALENCE OF INFANTICIDE, &c. 19 
 
 up, and the assembly departed, in the most 
 I quiet and becoming order, to their homes, after 
 having continued together about an hour in this 
 spontaneous service, for none but natives were 
 present, except ourselves two strangers, who, 
 coming into their meeting under such circum- 
 stances, though we understood not a word that 
 was sung or said, yet were constrained, by 
 evidence which we could not mistake, to con- 
 fess that of a truth God was in the midst of 
 them ; and so, falling down, we felt that we 
 could, with them, worship Him who is no 
 respecter of persons, but Avho accepteth those, 
 in every nation, that fear him, and work right- 
 eousness. 
 
 After breakfast, at nine o'clock, we accom- 
 panied Mr. Nott to public service, in the greater 
 chapel over the river. This we found filled 
 with a silent, decorous, and neatly-clothed 
 congregation, of nearly six hundred persons ; 
 many of the females wore bonnets of the Eng- 
 lish shape, and other parts of European dress. 
 Mr. Nott preached from the words, " Sanctify 
 them through thy truth." John xvii. 17. And 
 what indeed but the truth the truth of God 
 could have sanctified such a people as they 
 were, within this generation yea, less than 
 seven years ago 1 The audience were exceed- 
 ingly attentive, and appeared to join heartily in 
 songs of praise, and silently to engage in prayer 
 with the minister. We dined at Mr. Wilson's, 
 whose house is hard by ; from whence, learning 
 that some native teachers would catechise the 
 children, we returned to the chapel ; and there 
 witnessed a scene at once exhilarating and 
 affecting. About sixty young persons were on 
 their knees when we entered, while a chief of 
 the district was praying with them. During 
 the catechism which followed, the questions 
 and answers were repeated to us in English, 
 when we were gratified to observe that the 
 former were well adapted, and the latter, for 
 the most part, intelligent and satisfactory. At 
 four o'clock there was public worship again. 
 Mr. Wilson preached from Heb. ii. 3 : " How 
 shall we escape, if we neglect so great salva- 
 tion t" After the morning native service, Mr. 
 Tyrnmin addressed us from Luke xiii. 7: " Cut 
 it down; why cumbereth it the ground t" 
 and Mr. Jones, in the evening, from Numb, 
 xxiii. 23 : " What hath God wrought '." We 
 closed this first Sabbath among these Christians 
 of the Gentiles with edifying conversation, in 
 company with Mr. Nott and Mr. Wilson, our 
 host. What we have witnessed and recorded 
 now, we believe to be a fair exemplification of 
 what occurs every Sabbath here, and at all the 
 Missionary stations in these parts. Oh, that 
 every friend of this cause at home could see the 
 things that we have seen, and hear what we 
 have heard, and feel what we have felt, this 
 day, of the presence and power of God to heal, 
 revive, yea, new-create, the souls which sin 
 hath fatally wounded, and exposed to " the 
 second death !" How would their zeal, their 
 faith, their hope, their love be increased, and 
 their labours, their prayers, and their sacrifices, 
 multiplied in proportion ! 
 
 While going to Mr. Wilson's in the morning, 
 we conversed with Mr. Nott, who has resided 
 here from the commencement of the mission, 
 on the subject of infanticide, and learned, with 
 horror, that it had been practised to an extent 
 incredible, except on such testimony and evi- 
 dence as he, and the brethren on other stations, 
 have had the means of accumulating. He 
 assured us that three-fourths of the children 
 were wont to be murdered as soon as they were 
 born, by one or other of the unnatural parents, 
 or by some person employed for that purpose 
 wretches being found who might be called 
 infant-assassins by trade. He mentioned having 
 met a woman, soon after the abolition of the 
 diabolical practice, to whom he said, " How 
 many children have you V " This one, in my 
 arms," was her answer. "And how many did 
 you kill!" She replied, " Eight!' 9 Another 
 woman, to whom the same questions were put, 
 confessed that she had destroyed seventeen ! 
 Nor were these solitary cases. Sin was so 
 effectually doing its own work in these dark 
 places of the earth, that, full as they were of 
 the habitations of cruelty and wickedness, war, 
 profligacy, and murder, were literally extermi- 
 nating a people unworthy to live ; and soon 
 would the " cities have been wasted without 
 inhabitant, the houses without a man, and the 
 land been utterly desolate." But the gospel 
 stepped in, and the plague was stayed. Now 
 the married, among this Christianised popula- 
 tion, are exceedingly anxious to have offspring, 
 and those who have them nurse their infants 
 with the tenderest affection. 
 
 Oct. 1. We visited Mr. Crook. In the 
 aftenioon, as we were walking round the head 
 of the beautiful harbour, we observed a man 
 and woman stitching together the parts of a 
 canoe, which had been previously shapeii from 
 planks of the bread-fruit, and fitted together. 
 The thread used for this purpose is called nape 
 by the natives ; by the English, cinet. It is 
 prepared from the fibres of the cocoa-nut husk, 
 and platted into small cords, remarkable for 
 strength and durability. Holes are bored, two 
 and two, about an inch apart, with two feet 
 distance between each two ; these, in the pieces 
 to be fastened together, being opposite each 
 other, and wide enough to allow the cinet to 
 be drawn three or four times through. The 
 couple whom we saw at work proceeded very 
 deliberately : when the cinet was passed through 
 a hole, it was pulled tight by means of a short 
 stick, whereby a strong purchase was obtained : 
 and while this was employed on one side, a 
 stone was used on the other to beat the cord 
 flat, that it might lie close. A peg was then 
 driven into the hole, to keep it from slackening, 
 till another stitch had been taken ; and the 
 work was secured after the last stitch in the 
 same way by a pin that filled up the hole, and 
 wedged the end fast. In this manner the 
 largest canoes are built, or rather are manufac- 
 tured; the numerous pieces of which they 
 consist being compactly held together by this 
 kind of thread, which lasts as long as the timbor 
 itself, however exposed to the changes of wea- 
 
 c 2 
 
20 
 
 THE GOSPEL AT RAIATEAITS HAPPY RESULTS. 
 
 thcr, action of water, and ordinary wear and 
 
 tear. The joints are made to correspond as 
 
 I exactly as possible before the parts are sewed 
 
 I together, and they are afterwards caulked with 
 
 the shorter fibres of the cocoa husk. 
 
 Near this industrious pair some men were 
 fishing. One of these had a spear, with two 
 iron arrow-shaped heads, fixed on the top of a 
 bamboo shaft, upwards of ten feet in length. 
 The other had a similar shaft with a bunch of 
 slender sharp-pointed sticks tied at the upper 
 end, resembling a small carpet-broom. Armed 
 with these simple instruments, they waded knee- 
 deep into the water, watching for their prey, 
 which they struck with admirable dexterity as 
 soon as it came within their reach. 
 
 Oct. 3. This day the division of stores and 
 I presents sent out by the directors, under our 
 care, to the resident Missionaries was completed, 
 when they all expressed themselves highlygratified 
 with the kindness and liberality which had thus 
 remembered them on their distant stations. Mr. 
 Wilson mentioned the following circumstance 
 in the course of conversation. Five years ago, 
 being at Eimeo, a ship was driven upon tin- 
 reef which circumscribes its shores. Pomare, 
 with nineteen of his subjects, accompanied by 
 Mr. Wilson, went off to assist the crew in get- 
 ting the vessel from the rocks, where she \v:is 
 in danger of being beaten to pieces. No sooner 
 had they set her afloat than a violent gale came 
 on, which drove the ship with them ;ill mi hoard 
 :ts fur ;is Raiatea, one of the Leeward Islands, 
 when- they landed. A great feast was imme- 
 diately prepared bj the hospitable inhabitants 
 for Pomare and his company. Mr. Wilson em- 
 braced this opportunity of preaching the gospel 
 where it had never been heard before. This 
 he continued to do for three months, during 
 which he was detained there by contrary \\inds; 
 and he had good reason to believe that many 
 who heard the joyful sound learned t;> know if, 
 and to walk in the light of ( lod's countenance. 
 One day. while lie \\.is teaching the people, an 
 old man stood up, and exclaimed, " My fore- 
 fqthers worshipped <)><>, the god of war, and so 
 have I; nor shall anything that you can say per- 
 suade me to forsake this way." "And," conti- 
 nued he, addressing the missionary, "what do 
 you want more than yon have already 1 ? Have 
 you not won over such a chief, and such a chief t 
 ay, and you have Toman- himself! what, 
 want you morel" " All all the people of 
 Ivaiatea; and you yourself, I want!" replied 
 Mr. Wilson. " No, no," cried the old man ; 
 " me you shall never have me! I will do as 
 my fathers have done I will worship Oro ; you 
 shall never have me, I assure you." Yet, with- 
 in six months from that time, this staunch, in- 
 flexible, inveterate adherent of the bloody super- 
 stition of Oro (the Moloch of the Pacific) aban- 
 doned his idol, and became a worshipper of the 
 true God. 
 
 Some time afterwards, when Mr. Wilson was 
 coasting on a preaching tour round Tahiti, bis 
 boat struck upon a reef; his books and his stores 
 were all drenched in water, and his little boy 
 narrowly escaped being drowned. In this di- 
 
 lemma, when he was ready to abandon his object, 
 and return home, a man came to him, and said, 
 " Do you remember what you told me at Kaia- 
 tea?" " No," replied he ; " who are you, and 
 what was it that I said to you V Thereupon, with 
 much emotion, the other informed him, that his 
 preaching, while he was detained at Raiatea (on 
 the above occasion), had made him so unhappy, 
 under the burthen of his sins, that he could no 
 longer continue his idolatrous practices, but had 
 renounced them, and begun to serve and pray 
 to Jehovah alone. The missionary, at these 
 unexpected good tidings, thanked God, took 
 courage, and proceeded on his way. 
 
 We see and hear, wherever we go, evidences 
 of the glorious and blessed moral, religions, 
 social and political revolution, which the gr.sp,-! 
 has wrought in these islands. Pomare, while \et 
 a heathen, was, like all his barbarian an 
 exceedingly cruel in wreaking vengeance on his 
 enemies. A king of Tahiti has been known to 
 take the living children of those whom he had 
 slain in battle, make holes through their heads 
 at the juncture of the neck, and passing a cord 
 of cinet through the wounds, drag the little 
 innocents, shrieking and struggling, along the 
 beach, till they expired in agonies; tin 
 conqueror meanwhile remors. ing in 
 
 his trophies like a tiend incarnate. The princes 
 and chiefs wen- equally regardless of justice 
 towards their subjects, as of mercy towards their 
 foes. A certain man having a line sow and ten 
 pigs, the sovereign sent him word that he de- 
 sired to have them. The owner surrendered 
 the pigs, but kept back the sow, at which his 
 majesty was furiously enraged, but forbore to 
 take by force what he had failed to obtain by 
 intimidation. Another person had r: 
 luxuriant crop of tobacco on his ground ; the 
 king heard of it, and ordered the whole to be 
 cut down and cured for his own i 
 mice would have been sain, or 1; 
 injured man his life. If he wanted a canoe, he 
 had only to demand and have the best that be- 
 longed to any of his people. The very : 
 which a man and his family slept have been 
 unceremoniously, and without any offer of com- 
 pensation, required and given up to gratify the 
 royal rapacity. Some time au r o, choosing to 
 send a present of hogs and canoes to one of the 
 Lee-ward Islands, !' .-ven thing of the 
 
 kind that lay readily within his grasp; but the 
 objects of his bounty were as little benefited by 
 it as his subjects from whom it was extorted*. 
 The messengers whom he despatched with the 
 gift to Huahine remained so long there, that 
 they devoured ninety-eight large hogs, and con- 
 sumed a proportionate quantity of fruits and 
 other provisions, to the great distress of the 
 inhabitants. All the inconveniences attending 
 this mode of exaction from his subjects are not 
 yet removed; though more regular forms of 
 paying tribute are gradually introduced . 
 circumstances connected with Pomare's com- 
 mercial speculation, which have involved him in 
 difficulties, have urged him to be more rigorous 
 in taxing his subjects in the old arbitral 
 Yet he keeps nothing for himself more than is 
 
CONSPIRACY AGAINST POMARE. 
 
 21 
 
 Eimco. 
 
 . i-y for the mainti'nancc of his household ; 
 tin- large remainder of his revenue being s\\al-, 
 l"Wed up by those hungry chief's and soldiers 
 who usually attend him, as counsellors and 
 guards, and on whom he is principally de- 
 pendent. 
 
 At Eimeo a Christian chapel has heen built, 
 upon the site of a marae, or temple. "When 
 this place of worship was opened, and the sacra- 
 ment was administered alike to converts of both 
 \< s. an aged man, who had been a priest 
 under the n-ign of idolatry, was indignant that 
 the women should be admitted to eat with the 
 men, and seriously proposed to the king that all 
 the females who had communicated at the Lord's 
 table should be killed, because the spot on 
 which tin's offence against heathen prejudice 
 had been committed was holy ground, which 
 women had never been permitted to pollute by 
 tn-adiug upon it. Pomare of course rejected 
 the Satanic counsel, and the hoary-headed priest 
 himself afterwards saw and acknowledged his 
 error. 
 
 A lew weeks before our arrival some dissatis- 
 faction had arisen in a district of Tahiti, in con- 
 sequence of the king's partiality in distributing 
 his property among his chiefs. An individual 
 had sent Pomare a large hog, for which hehum- 
 lly asked a black-lead pencil in return. This 
 being refused, he and some others who had 
 taken offence for similar causes, formed a con- 
 spiracy to destroy the king, and to effect a revo- 
 lution in the government. The plot being dis- 
 covered, the two ringleaders were apprehended, 
 tried, and condemned. Tahitians seldom deny 
 a crime of which they have been guilty, when 
 charged with it; and these culprits frankly ac- 
 knowledged theirs. They were sentenced to 
 death, and hanged upon a tree in the presence 
 
 of multitudes, who witnessed the execution with 
 indescribable horror, as a scene equally new 
 and terrible ; justice not having been w\mt to 
 be administered with such solemnity, of old, 
 when the most summary and cruel punishments 
 were inflicted on offenders without any legal 
 forms. Mr. Crook attended on the spot, and 
 while the bodies were hanging (which they did 
 for an hour) earnestly addressed the spectators, 
 and " reasoned with them of righteousness, 
 temperance, and a judgment to come," allow- 
 ing brief intervals of awful silence, that their 
 minds might be more affected by ruminating on 
 the subjects thus brought home to their con- 
 sciences. 
 
 In connexion with the vengeance formerly 
 wreaked upon criminals, and the monstrous 
 atrocities committed against vanquished enemies, 
 we have been told that there are wild men in 
 the mountains who have haunted the highest 
 accessible eminences for many years, and live 
 there in such deplorable degradation, that the 
 barbarism of their countrymen, before they re- 
 ceived the gospel, was civilization in compari- 
 son with their state. These are principally 
 persons who had formerly offended the king, the 
 chiefs, or the priests, or had been vanquished in 
 battle, and fled to the fastnesses and woods in 
 the interior of the island for refuge. One of 
 these stray beings was taken alive some short 
 time ago, and brought to a Christian village, 
 where he was treated with the utmost kindness 
 and hospitality by the people, as well as intro- 
 duced to their religious meetings, but without 
 any apparent happy influence upon his sullen, 
 and untractable disposition. He seized the 
 first convenient opportunity, when unobserved, 
 to steal away from the custody of benevolence, 
 and escape back to his rude freedom and hard 
 
22 
 
 SPIRITUOUS LIQUORS POMARE VISITS RAIVAVAI. 
 
 fare among the mountains ; nor has he since been 
 heard of. Several others are known to be yet 
 living in those forlorn and hideous solitudes. 
 
 Oct. 5. Mr. Nott received a letter from the 
 king, at Eimeo, who expresses high satisfaction 
 on hearing of the arrival of the deputation, and 
 those who accompanied them as future settlers. 
 He says that he regards us as friends, shall treat 
 us as such, and furnish us with food and other 
 necessaries. He proposes to return from Eimeo 
 as soon as his health will allow him, and parti- 
 cularly requests that, in the mean time, the pre- 
 sents from the society intended for him may not 
 be shown to any one else. 
 
 We are glad to hear that Pomare spends his 
 evenings in listening to " the words of eternal 
 life," portions of the Scriptures which he him- 
 self has essentially aided to translate' into his 
 own tongue being read to him by the chiefs and 
 other persons in attendance. He has some- 
 times twenty and more of these sitting around 
 him, taking verse by verse in turn. Of these 
 he has himself taught several to read, and he 
 delights to improve others. He learned to read 
 in the year 1802, and began to write about the 
 same time. He maybe said in a great measure 
 to have taught himself both these accomplish- 
 ments, which were never acquired by a South 
 Sea Islander before. He engaged the mission- 
 aries to furnish him with lessons, consisting of 
 syllables, words, sentences, and paragraphs, in 
 gradation, upon slips of paper : these he took 
 with him when travelling from place to place, 
 and copied at his leisure, with unwearying dili- 
 gence and application ; thus reading and ui it- 
 ing at the sainr tiini 1 , and giving his instructors 
 very little trouble. He is wont also to engage 
 in extemporary prayer in his own family; 
 though he occasionally calls upon one or other 
 of his attendants to officiate. Prayer is thus 
 oH'en-d twice a-day beneath his roof, and lie 
 permits no business \\hatever to prevent the 
 regular discharge of this duty. 
 
 It is lamentable, however, that an exam pit- 
 in many respects so much to be commended, 
 and so worthy of imitation, should be counter- 
 acted in its benign influence by some debasing 
 habits to which the king is unhappily addicted, 
 lie is inordinately fond of spirituous liquors ; 
 but as he is dependent upon ships touching on 
 his coast for supplies of these, he is frequently, 
 for long intervals, abstemious from necessity. 
 This is remarkable, when it is known that he 
 has ample materials for making spirits in his 
 own land, and is well acquainted with the art 
 of distilling. Not only does the sugar-cane 
 grow luxuriantly here, but also the fit plant 
 (dracocna terminate), from the root of which 
 an excellent spirit may be extracted. Before 
 Christianity was embraced there were multi- 
 tudes of stills throughout Tahiti and the adja- 
 cent islands, and vast quantities of spirits were 
 manufactured. But when the gospel change 
 took place every still was destroyed, and their 
 use in future entirely prohibited. Thus is this 
 extraordinary man so deeply sensible of the evils 
 of intoxication, that he will not suffer ardent 
 spirits to be prepared even for himself, notwith- 
 
 standing his infatuated love of strong drink, 
 rather than hazard the consequences to his peo- 
 ple, were they again to be exposed to such peril- 
 ous temptations. When some Russian ships of 
 discovery touched at Tahiti, not long ago, the 
 commander soon discovered Pomare's besetting 
 infirmity, and expressed his astonishment that, 
 having the means of indulgence within his 
 power, he did not avail himself of them. His 
 astonishment was of another kind when the mis- 
 sionaries explained to him the reason of such 
 extraordinary self-denial. 
 
 But whatever Pomare may have been for- 
 merly, while he was a heathen ; whatever he 
 may be now in the sight of God, professing as 
 he does the Christian faith, without works, in all 
 respects, corresponding thereto ; he has always 
 acted in the most friendly manner towards the 
 missionaries, and the cause in which they have 
 been labouring among his subjects ; never tailing 
 when opportunity offered, to employ his influ- 
 ence for the promulgation of the gospel. In 
 the year 1820 he visited R.iivavai, or High 
 Island, lying about four hundred miles south- 
 ward of Tahiti, where, notwithstanding it- dis- 
 tance, his authority was acknowledged. On 
 his arrival, he found two parties at war \\ ith each 
 other, and devastating the country by their 
 feud*. Pomare interposed, brought the hostile 
 leaders together, and reconciled them. 
 he was about to return home, he left this charge : 
 " Watch and sec; the man who stirs up war 
 again, let him be put to death." The inhabit- 
 ants, at his persuasion, had cast away their 
 idols ; and twoTahitian ron\. iN were stationed 
 among them, at his departure, to instruct the 
 willing sa\ai. r f> in reading, writing, and other 
 useful arts. The kin-'s \Mt on this occasion 
 appears, from accounts received a lew months 
 ago, to have been followed by the most auspi- 
 cious effects. The peace had not been In. .ken ; 
 a larire chapel had been erected, \\hich M, a-. 
 crowded on the Sabbath with eager audiences. 
 The ship's captain, who brought this intelli- 
 gence, said, that on the Sunday when 
 there, he counted eight bunded and fort \ 
 persons at public worship seven hundred 
 within, and the rest standing without, hearing 
 the Scriptures read, ami pravers ottered, by 
 teachers, who had themselves not long before 
 been dark idolaters. The whole population ol 
 Rai\a\ai is little more than sixteen hundred 
 souls. They had turned the stocks, which they 
 formely reverenced as gods, into stools to sit 
 upon in the temple which they had dedicated to 
 the true God. They are now earnestly di siring 
 European missionaries to be placed over them, 
 and Para, the chief of the Island sent hither a 
 message by the aforementioned captain to that 
 effect. 
 
 As we were returning from a visit to Matavai, 
 this evening (Oct. 5), we were invited by some 
 nathes to partake of such hospitality as they 
 could afford, which gave us an opportunity of 
 witnessing, and enjoying too, a meal in the 
 genuine Tahitian style. In a court, surrounding 
 a good habitation, we were placed on a bench 
 under a purau tree (hibiscus). As it soon 
 
TABUED TREES PAGANISM ABANDONED. 
 
 23 
 
 grew dark, two rude lamps each a stone about 
 four inches square, in the middle of which was 
 a hole, the shape and size of a tea cup, filled 
 with cocoa-nut oil, having an upright cotton 
 wick blazing above it were placed on the 
 ground, and gave sufficient light during the en- 
 tertainment. The table-cloth purau-leaves, 
 spread in a circle was laid on tbe ground. On 
 this was placed a hot bread-fruit, smoking from 
 the oven, a piece of a baked fish, and a cocoa- 
 nut shell of salt water, into which the mor- 
 sels of the fish were to be dipt before they 
 were put into the mouth. Cocoa-nut and spring 
 water constituted the beverage. We relished 
 the repast, and were delighted with our host. 
 He was an old man, and had known Captain 
 Cook, and culled himself his friend. We were 
 much amused with his conversation, which a 
 little broken English, mixed with the native 
 dialect, sunn-times rendered ludicrously intelli- 
 gible. He described Captain Cook as a tall, 
 stout man ; and said, that at the lirst visit of 
 the latter to the island, he himself had one 
 child ; at the second, three, and at the third, five. 
 The English, he observed, had tables, chairs, 
 and dishes at their meals; but the Tahitians 
 took their food in the primitive; manner which 
 wesau. \\ e hade him farewell with hearty 
 expressions of thanks, which were returned to 
 us with not less hearty good wishes by our host 
 and his family. As we went home through 
 the darkness, our guide was very careful to warn 
 us airainst obstructions in the way, especially 
 when we (-limited " One-tree Hill," which is 
 vi i \ steep and rough. At a particular point he 
 stopped, and directed our attention to the bay 
 below, which extends at the foot of the moun- 
 tains, observing that there Pomare, father of the 
 present king, had fallen down in his canoe, and 
 died instantly. 
 
 i al of the cocoa-nut trees, which we 
 parsed in our walk, having patches of leaves 
 tied about -the stems, at the height of six or 
 seven feet, we inquired the reason, and were 
 told that such trees were tabu set apart as pri- 
 vate property, and that all persons, except the 
 owners, were thus prohibited from climbing or 
 gathering fruit from them. A tree so tabued is 
 seldom violated ; when it is, the delinquent, if 
 found out, is punished with banishment to a 
 desolate island, as unworthy of honest society. 
 
 Two natives came into Mr. Nott's house, and 
 sat till late at niu;ht, apparently listening to our 
 conversation with the most reverential respect. 
 At length they rose up from the floor, and one 
 of them said to Mr. Nott, " I don't understand 
 a word that you all have been thinking and talk- 
 ing about; but I'll tell you what I have been 
 thinking : there are many parts of this island, 
 especially Taiarabu, that have no teachers ; 
 why don't you send teachers to theml" So say- 
 ing, he and his companions departed. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Islands which have received Christianity Language of 
 the Natives of the Society Islands Destruction of Idol* 
 Domestic Manufactures Presents from the King 
 
 Hiro, the God of Thieves War- spear Missionaries 
 prepare a Code of Laws Tatooing abandoned Visit to 
 Eimeo Strolling Players Public Service Introduc- 
 tion to Pomare Interview with Christian Church and 
 Congregation Social Meetings for Religious Improve- 
 ment. 
 
 Oct. 7. WE have spent a second blessed 
 Sabbath-day here. The following islands are 
 known to have cast away their idols and de- 
 clared themselves worshippers of the living 
 God: Tahiti, Eimeo, Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa, 
 Borabora, Maupiti, which may be seen from 
 Borabora, thirty miles off; also Tetaroa, twenty- 
 eight miles north-west of Tahiti ; Maiaoiti, 
 Tubuai, three hundred miles south of Tahiti ; 
 Kaivavai, upwards of sixty miles east by south 
 of Tubuai ; and Rurutu, upwards of three hun- 
 dred miles south of Maiaoiti. It is believed, 
 that several of the islands in Dangerous Archi- 
 pelago have likewise abandoned paganism, and 
 are waiting for the gospel. Though some of the 
 avowedly Christian islands have no European 
 missionaries resident xipon them, native teach- 
 ers, by the blessing of God, conduct the Sab- 
 bath and week-day devotions, reading the.Scrip- 
 tures, singing and praying, " in the great con- 
 gregation ;" as well as privately, and from house 
 to house, expounding the truths of Christianity 
 according to their knowledge ; exhorting those 
 who say that they are believers to adorn the 
 doctrine of God our Saviour by a suitable walk 
 and conversation. 
 
 Oct. 8. "We are daily learning for ourselves, 
 from the lips of the natives, words and phrases of 
 the language. By these means we have already 
 a considerable vocabulary written down ; which 
 we often rehearse before our teachers of this 
 class, who, sometimes seated in a circle about 
 us, for hours together, exercise all their inge- 
 nuity and patience too, in giving us instructions, 
 especially in the pronunciation, which is most 
 difficult to catch, and delicate to use, there being 
 a nicety and refinement in this, which our Bri- 
 tish friends would hardly believe could exist in a 
 language of uncivilised men. Sometimes, in 
 our walks, as they run alongside of us, they 
 pick up a stone, a stick, a leaf, a flower, a fruit, 
 and name it to us in Tahitian, giving it also in 
 parauBretane (English) if they happen to know 
 that: and all this they do with unaffected good 
 nature, never being tired of repeating the word, 
 till we have caught the correct accent and sound, 
 or come as near as we can. 
 
 Oct. 9. We make a point of putting down, 
 from day to day, such information respecting the 
 past and present state of these islands as we 
 receive. The mighty moral change commenced 
 from the king himself. Pomare, like his proge- 
 nitors and his subjects, was a gross idolater ; 
 and so he remained for many years after the 
 arrival of the missionaries, though he was al- 
 ways their steady friend and patron. At length 
 he began to suspect the power of his national 
 divinities, and by a bold experiment, in which 
 he felt that he hazarded both his kingdom and 
 life, he resolved to put them to the test. It had 
 always been customary for the people when they 
 caught a turtle, to present it to the Soveieign. 
 This royal perquisite was immediately taken to 
 
'24 
 
 EXAMPLE OF POMARE. 
 
 the marae, and there baked ; which being done, 
 part of it was offered to the idol, to render him 
 propitious, and the remainder was brought to 
 the king and his family, who were then, but not 
 before, allowed to eat of it. It was pretended 
 by the priests, and of course believed by the 
 multitude, that if this ceremony were not per- 
 formed, some supernatural punishment would 
 be inflicted on the offenders. On a certain 
 time, a turtle being brought to Pomare, he com- 
 maiided it to be dressed at his own house, and 
 tori mile any portion of it to be presented ;it the 
 
 temple. He then sat down with his household, 
 but no one except himself had the hardihood to 
 taste. The superstitious chiefs and people 
 naturally expected to see vengeance poured upon 
 the sacrilegious prince; nor was he himself 
 without secret misgivings that spoiled the kern 
 relish with which he would otherwise have 
 rioted on the delicious food. But nothing dis- 
 astrous following, he was convinced of the folly 
 of idolatry and the impotence of his gods ; he 
 therefore determined to cashier them, and em- 
 brace the religion of the missionaries. 
 
 No. 1. TERMAPOTUURA, said to be the sou of tin? inv;it 
 {,'cid Oro. 
 
 N<>. :_'. Name not known. 
 
 NO. :{. TKMEHAKE, the principal god of Pomare's 
 family. 
 
 Nos. 4, 5, and 6. Called OROMATUAS. 
 
 Hereupon he convened his chiefs, told thorn 
 what he had done, and exhorted them to follow 
 his example, at the same time assuring them 
 
 No. 7. TUPA, a god of Otahcite. 
 
 No. 8. A family TV. 
 
 No. 9. TAHIVI ANUNAEHAU, the .handle of the sacred 
 fan with which the priest drove off the flie.<, win, 
 his prayers and siinil'uvs. 
 
 No. 10. An ugly wooden image called a TIT. 
 
 that he should employ no coercion, but leave 
 every one tree to do as he pleast-d. For himself 
 and his house, however, he declared like Joshua 
 
COCOA-NUT OIL COOKERY PRESENTS. 
 
 of old, that they would serve the Lord. By an 
 extraordinary correspondence of feeling, the 
 principal men and a great proportion of the 
 common people, in a comparatively short time, 
 came to the same resolution. The majority of 
 the idols were, in' the sequel, committed to the 
 flames, or delivered to the missionaries! as spoils 
 of the gospel, and Jehovah was publicly con- 
 fessed to be the only God of the Tahitians. 
 After repeated inquiries we are fully satisfied 
 that no compulsion was used to carry this won- 
 derful measure ; and human compulsion, if 
 attempted, would probably never have carried 
 it against priests, and chiefs, and people, all in- 
 veterately attached to the superstitions of their 
 fathers. What but the great power of God 
 alone could have done this I 
 
 On our walk to-day we called at several 
 houses of the natives, by all of whom we were 
 cordially welcomed. In one, we saw two women 
 making cloth of the inner bark of certain trees. 
 A strip of this, being carefully cleaned from the 
 outer rind, is placed upon a piece of wood, 
 called tutu, about four inches square, with two 
 deep grooves on one side, and smooth on the 
 other. This is beaten by women sitting on the 
 ground, with an instrument of the wood called 
 Ic. This is about eighteen inches long, and two 
 inches square, one end being rounded for a 
 handle. The four sides of this instrument are 
 cut longitudinally into grooves, graduating in 
 ; the coarser being applied first, and tin- 
 finer successively till the cloth is finished. This 
 bark, being glutinous, the pieces are united 
 without difficulty, either sidewise, or end to end, 
 
 -trokes of the le ; these strokes also, reducing 
 the thickness of the materials, both widen and 
 1 lengthen the cloth, till the whole is completed, 
 in measure and substance, as may be required. 
 When thus prepared the web is first bleached, 
 and afterwards stained the colour intended. 
 This is altogether women's work. 
 
 In another house, we witnessed the manner 
 of making that sort of matting called pini, 
 which is of a coarse texture, woven of rushes 
 by the fingers. The ends of the rushes where 
 the joints occur are cutoff with a muscle-shell, 
 as expertly as they might be with a pair of scis- 
 sors. When the makers offer these mats for 
 sale, they expect an equal length of white calico 
 in exchange. They are used for flooring and 
 bedding; the latter by the natives, the former 
 by the missionaries. We found others of the 
 industrious people employed in manufacturing 
 the mats, which they call paua, of cocoa-nut 
 leaves, cut into necessary lengths and breadths, 
 which are admirably platted together, and form 
 very strong protections to keep out the rain,when 
 laid, as they generally are, at the doors of the 
 dwelling!. 
 
 The process of obtaining cocoa-nut oil next 
 caught our attention. The kernel is first scraped 
 into thin flakes, being ingeniously scooped out 
 of the shell by means of a semicircular piece of 
 flat iron, sharpened and fixed upon the angular 
 point of a sloping stool, on which a person sits, 
 and turns the nut* open at one end, over this 
 edge till the contents are cleared out. The 
 
 sliced kernels are then put into a trough, or an 
 old canoe, where, in a few days, the oil drains 
 from them, is carefully collected, put into bam- 
 boos, and corked up for use. This oil is called 
 mori, and has entirely superseded the candle- 
 nut for lighting. To the missionaries, however, 
 the natives are indebted for this valuable pre- 
 paration. 
 
 An opportunity was afforded us ot observing 
 the Tahitian method of baking. A broad, 
 shallow excavation, shaped like a tea saucer, six 
 inches in depth, and wide in proportion, was 
 made in the ground by means of a pointed 
 stick. A fire was then kindled in it with dry 
 wood, over which a number of stones, the size 
 of a man's fist, were piled, and left till they 
 were highly heated. The wood ashes being 
 then carefully separated, the glowing stones 
 were spread over the bottom of this oven. A 
 pig's head and feet were placed on one side, upon 
 the stones, and on the other two pieces of bread- 
 fruit, from which the rind had been scraped. 
 The whole was then covered with purau-leaves 
 to a good depth, upon which was heaped the 
 earth that had been scooped out of the hole, to 
 keep in the heat and steam. In less than an 
 hour and a half the flesh and fruit were ready ; 
 and the earth and leaves being carefully re- 
 moved, the food was brought out perfectly clean 
 and well cooked. The whole was cleverly 
 managed by a little boy ten years of age. Large 
 hogs are sometimes roasted whole in these earth- 
 ovens, having some of the hot stones put into 
 the inside. Being thus prepared the gravy is 
 retained, and the meat is excellent. 
 
 Oct. 10. The old man, who calls himself Mr. 
 Mane, and Captain Cook's friend, whose new 
 house we expect to occupy, has engaged, at Mr. 
 Nott's request, to make the necessary division 
 of it into four roonis, for our accommodation. 
 He is very civil, and will not employ any one 
 to help him in the work, being determined to 
 do every thing himself. The people of Tahiti 
 are not of various trades and occupations, every 
 man, even the chiefs, with few exceptions, be- 
 ing able to build his house, construct his canoe, 
 manufacture his fishing tackle, &c. ; and when 
 we consider with how few and simple tools he 
 contrives to do all this, his skill and dexterity 
 are admirable. 
 
 One of our taios (or friends) has presented 
 us with a hog, some cocoa-nuts, maias, or bana- 
 nas, (musa paradisaica) and mountain-plantains, 
 feiis (musa sapientiee). When a present is thus 
 made, it is usually placed 011 the outside of the 
 house, and the chief, whose servants have 
 brought it, himself enters and invites his friend 
 to come out and look at it. The latter of course 
 complies, and orders his attendants to bring the 
 articles within doors. No expressions of thanks 
 are used on these occasions, and we cannot find 
 out that the language contains any terms for 
 such acknowledgments. We have learnt, how- 
 ever, that those who are favoured with such 
 gifts from great men are expected to make re- 
 turns of something more valuable to the mer- 
 cenary donors. 
 
 Oct. 12. A considerable number of chiefs 
 
2fi 
 
 HIRO, THE GOD OF THIEVES TATOOING ABANDONED. 
 
 waited upon us, with a great train of attendants, 
 bringing various presents, consisting of hogs 
 and fruits. "When we went out to receive them, 
 the whole party were sitting on their heels in 
 silence, with their faces towards the house, at 
 the distance of twenty yards from the present 
 the pigs being tied up, and the fruits spread 
 upon the ground. At our appearance they all 
 rose, and the chiefs informed us of the object of 
 their visit. According to the custom, in such 
 cases, we went and looked at the gifts, but our 
 feelings compelled us to go beyond the usual 
 courtesy, and express our sense of their kind- 
 ness thus manifested to strangers. A present 
 from the king to us having been announced, 
 we went to the house of Manaonao (Pomare's 
 vicegerent at Tahiti, during his absence), at 
 Pape etc, where his majesty has a house, it be- 
 ing necessary that his bounty should be admi- 
 nistered on his own premises. We were 
 then informed by the old chief (who is griev- 
 ously afflicted with a species of elephantiasis, 
 and has also an immense sarcocele), that the 
 presents were made to us in the name, not only 
 of the king, but of the chiefs, the people, and 
 of the missionaries, to the deputies of the Lon- 
 don Society, :ind tlm>e who had accompanied 
 us hither. There were five hogs, a groat bun- 
 dle of native cloth, as much as three men could 
 lift, and a large quantity of cocoa-nuts, bananas, 
 and mountain plantains. We were requested 
 to look at these things, which we did, and, us 
 in the former case, expressed as well as we 
 could our pleasure on receiving such tokens of 
 friendship from the king and the several classes 
 of his subjects, which had been named to us. 
 
 Ha\ing frequent occasion to recur to the for- 
 mer state of society in these island;*, we h;i\e 
 just heard, that among other idols there \\as a 
 god of thieves, held by his worshippers in the 
 highest honour. He was called Iliro, and 
 among his votaries were many of the cleverest 
 men, not from the lower ranks only, but even 
 some of the principal chiefs. The arts and con- 
 trivances which these resorted to, in order to 
 obtain the property of their neighbours and 
 strangers, proved that this strange representa- 
 tive of Satan was served with more than ordi- 
 nary devotion. His rites were celebrated in 
 darkness, at the change of the moon. While 
 the husband prowled forth to rob, the wife went 
 to the marae to pray for his success ; yet, if 
 success were not always found, it would be with 
 an ill grace if they should charge Hiro with 
 bad faith towards his followers, for faithful as 
 they were in making vows, they were knavish 
 enough hi performing them : thus, if a hog had 
 been stolen, an inch or two of the end of the 
 tail was deemed a sufficient thank-ottering to 
 him. With this in his hand, the thief went to 
 the marae, and laying it down on the ground, 
 he would say cuntingly, "Here, good Hiro, is 
 a piece of the pig that I stole last night for you, 
 but don't you tell." Then he would slink 
 away, persuading himself that, if he had wronged 
 his neighbour, he had not wronged his god, 
 though, to do his ingenuity justice, he had tied 
 such a triple knot of villany, that it would be a 
 
 nice point for a casuist to determine, whether 
 he had cheated his neighbour, his god, or him- 
 self, the most. 
 
 An idea of the savage barbarity with which 
 wars were accustomed to be carried on among 
 these tribes may be formed from the horrible 
 weapons with which they mangled and slew 
 one another. Among these, there was what 
 might be called a trident; an instrument con- 
 sisting of a long shaft to the head of which 
 were attached three spines from the tail of the 
 ray-fish. These are strong sharp bones, deeply 
 barbed ; and they were so artfully fastened, 
 that, when struck into the body of an enemy, 
 they were instantly detached from the handle, 
 and remained rankling in the wound, from 
 which the barbs prevented their being with- 
 drawn. To be pierced by one of these was Al- 
 most certain death, and death accompanied by 
 the most excruciating torture. 
 
 But when the gospel changed their hearts, it 
 softened their manners, and enlightened their 
 understandings. Finding their religion to be 
 false, they suspected that e\ en thing el-e l.\ 
 which they had been ruled must be wrong 
 their customs, their manners, their legislation. 
 Hence, at their paraprouras, or c<>n\ creations 
 for improvement, instituted by the missionaries, 
 they would frequently solicit information, nut 
 on moral and religious subjects only, but also on 
 government and jurisprudence. The mission- 
 aries, howe\er, always referred them to the 
 king and the chiefs when questions of policy 
 were put to them, saying, that they came not 
 thither to meddle with the la\\s ami" civil insti- 
 tution-, but to teach them the true religion, 
 which would itself prepare them to rece. , 
 practise what was true, and ri-ht, and yood, in 
 her respect. At length the king him- 
 self requested their assistance in Ionian- 
 code of laws, founded on scriptural authority 
 and principles. Even this they decli 
 long as they could with propriety, but being 
 often importuned, they consented to prepare a 
 code of legislation, suited to the changed cir- 
 cumstances of the people. This, though 
 sarily imperfect in the first instance, but capable 
 of being improved from time to time, ns 
 vation or experience might warrant, di<; 
 credit to those who framed it, to the kin:: who 
 adopted it, and to the people who submitted to 
 a s\stem of polity and jurisprudence so 
 tiaily different from that under which they had 
 lived. The practice of tatooing their ] 
 was one in which all classes delighted, but 
 which they willingly abandoned, as associated 
 with idolatry and licentiousness, when they re- 
 ceived a purer religion. It was made a crime 
 under the new laws, and when committed 
 (which is very rare indeed) punished with M-ry 
 great severity. Such sacrifices of passion, pride, 
 superstition, vanity, self-indulgence, ferocity, 
 with all the malignant and inveterate evils in 
 which they had been nurtured, have seldom 
 been made by whole natiotis at once, as, on the 
 adoption of Christianity, were resolutely, spon- 
 taneously, and almost universally made" by tin- 
 people of these small islands, each of which was 
 
STROLLING PLAYERS IDOLS BURNT IN EIMEO. 
 
 27 
 
 in fact a country by itself, and the few hundreds 
 or thousands of its inhabitants a distinct nation. 
 
 We left Pape etc about noon, this day, (Oct. 
 12) and sailed with a pleasant breeze in Mr. 
 Bicknell's boat, for Eimeo, which lies twenty- 
 five miles from this harbour ; presenting, as we 
 approached it, a landscape on the sea, whence 
 it rises, and on which it seems to repose under 
 the blue firmament, having an undulated out- 
 line that swells from the coral-reefed shore to 
 the elevation of three or four thousand feet at 
 its sharp pointed summits. In one of the high- 
 est of these peaks there is a hole open to the 
 sky beyond, which may be seen through it. 
 Tradition says, that the god Pae being angry 
 with this island, shot an arrow at it from Tahiti, 
 which passed through the heart of the rock, 
 leaving this orifice behind as a memorial of his 
 prowess. On the south side of the same emi- 
 nence is a vast amphitheatre, which in the last 
 war commenced by the idolatrous party against 
 the king and his Christian adherents was 
 selected by Pomare as a place of refuge, in the 
 issue of his being defeated and driven from his 
 own island by the rebels. In this natural strong 
 hold, almost impregnable to barbarian assail- 
 ants, he hoped to be able to conceal himself 
 ;iinl his friends, including the missionaries, till 
 eventual safety could be secured. The battle, 
 however, was in favour of the righteous cause ; 
 idolatry itself was overthrown by the decision 
 of that day, and those whom his aVms had not 
 destroyed in the conflict, his clemency after- 
 wards subdued and endeared to his sway. 
 
 As we drew near the island, Mr. Nott added 
 to the pleasure which we felt in contemplating 
 the majestic scenery before our eyes, by relat- 
 ing various circumstances of the age gone by, 
 and the new one that is begun. During the 
 former period tin re \v;is :i description of persons 
 called Papauiomu, (Areois) a kind of strolling 
 players, who went about the country from one 
 chiefs district to another, reciting stories and 
 singing songs for the entertainment of the 
 people. The stories were called Aamu, and 
 were dramatic in form, so that several speakers 
 might take their distinct parts, and not merely 
 recite but act them. These compositions, we 
 are told, frequently did credit to the talents of 
 the authors, while the accuracy and liveliness 
 Avith Avhich they were repeated showed consi- 
 derable powers of memory as well as of imita- 
 tion in the performances. But they were con- 
 nected with unutterable abominations, and 
 therefore have been entirely discontinued since 
 purer manners have followed in the train of 
 Christian principles. The licentious dances, 
 the barbarous cock-fightings (for these were 
 favourite games formerly), with other detestable 
 and cruel sports have been likewise abandoned; 
 the natives confining themselves to the innocent 
 and healthful exercises necessary in fishing, 
 sailing, climbing trees, &c., in pursuing their 
 daily manual occupations ; many of which are 
 new to them since civilization has multiplied 
 the number of their wants, and increased their 
 means of supplying them. We have not de- 
 tected any instance of wanton barbarity in- 
 
 flicted on animals either by children or adults ; 
 whatever be the state of their hearts, they have 
 received the gospel as a dispensation of mercy, 
 and externally at least it appears in this charac- 
 ter to influence all their conduct. 
 
 When we got into shoal water, the bottom of 
 the sea was covered with forests of the most 
 beautiful corals, exquisite in colouring, and 
 endlessly diversified in ramification ; while 
 fishes of hues yet more brilliant, and shapes as 
 peculiar, were playing among their intricate 
 mazes. 
 
 About eight o'clock in the evening we reached 
 Pape-toai, on the north-west of the island, where 
 the missionaries reside. Messrs. Henry and 
 Platt were waiting with a great concourse of 
 the people to welcome us. We had scarcely 
 got under cover of Mr. Plait's hospitable roof 
 when five of the deacons of the church came to 
 aroha us, that is, to express their joy at our 
 arrival in Eimeo. Most heartily we returned 
 their congratulations by declaring our wonder 
 and delight at beholding what great things the 
 Lord had done for them. One of these who 
 was spokesman for his brethren, said, ("among 
 other strong observations) " We are brands 
 plucked out of the burning. Satan was destroy- 
 ing, and casting us one after another into the 
 flames of hell ; but Jehovah came and snatched 
 us out of his hands, and threw water upon the 
 fire that was consuming us so we were saved!" 
 After inviting us to meet the whole con^rc^i- 
 tion on Monday, to have a friendly talk to- 
 gether, they departed. 
 
 Oct. 14. We visited one of the deacons, who, 
 on account of lameness, was unable to wait 
 upon us yesterday with his brethren. The 
 benevolent and intelligent expression of his 
 countenance exceedingly struck us, and inte- 
 rested us to know something of his personal 
 history. He is a chief and also a judge of the 
 island, who, both in his official and private 
 character is venerated by his people, and re- 
 garded by the Missionaries. The latter bear 
 testimony, that by his uniform Christian de- 
 meanour he has hitherto adorned that gospel, 
 which he was the first in Eimeo publicly to 
 confess by throwing his idols into the flames. 
 This he did in the presence of his countrymen, 
 who stood shuddering at his hardihood, and ex- 
 pecting that the evil spirits to whom the sense- 
 less stocks were dedicated would strike him 
 dead on the spot for the profanation. He 
 remained unharmed, however, and it was not 
 long before other chiefs followed his example, 
 and the people joining in with them, the tem- 
 ples, the altars, the images of Satan were 
 universally overthrown. We have remarked, 
 both here and in Tahiti, that in various in- 
 stances the churches of the true God have been 
 erected on the very sites of the demolished 
 maraes ; so that where their murdered brethren 
 were wont to be ottered up to devils, the rege- 
 nerated natives now present themselves, body 
 and soul, as living sacrifices to Him, who spared 
 not his own Son for them, and who with Him 
 is how freely giving them all things. 
 
 A new chapel being much needed at this 
 
28 
 
 INTRODUCTION TO POMARE KIND RECEPTION. 
 
 station, many of the materials are already pre- 
 pared. The stone work for the windows has 
 been wrought with peculiar neatness, and would 
 do credit to European masons. A chief, who 
 resides in another part of the island, hut comes 
 every Saturday night, with his family to spend 
 the Sabbath here, is building a substantial ha- 
 bitation near the intended place of worship. 
 This is to be plastered both within and without, 
 and when complete will be a really handsome 
 and comfortable mansion, such as had never 
 been known among his pagan ancestors, nor 
 might have been attempted for ages to come, 
 had he and his posterity remained pagans. We 
 were surprised and pleased, to-day, to see so 
 large a proportion of the congregation, clothed 
 after the English fashion, and with English 
 manufactures, which they have already learned 
 gracefully and modestly to adapt to their persons, 
 as well as accommodate to the climate. 
 
 We are informed that Pomare has appointed 
 to-morrow for our introduction to him. The 
 missionaries deeply deplore his present threat- 
 ening illness ; always speaking of him in the 
 most grateful terms, as the decided and steady 
 fririnl of them and their work, notwithstanding 
 his insane propensity, at times, to drink ardent 
 spirits to excess. Oh, what a lesson is here 
 afforded of the infatuating, enslaving, destroy ini: 
 ascendancy of sin over human weakness, in the 
 form of but one gross habit inevitably fixed! 
 He employs, indeed, all his influence and au- 
 thority to prevent others from committing tin- 
 same folly ; often laments his own infirmity 
 with vain remorse and impotent resolution to 
 shun the snare in future, but when the temp- 
 tation again presents itself, again befalls. Tlu> 
 sad spectacle of their monarch, thus led captm- 
 by an enemy the most insidious, we have reason 
 to believe, has made both young and old, among 
 his subjects, more watchful against sensual in- 
 dulgences, and more constant in prayer to be 
 delivered from evil. 
 
 Oct. 15., Being summoned to wait upon Po- 
 mare, we set out, accompanied by Messrs Nott, 
 Henry, and Platt. The king was confined by 
 indisposition at a house, not far from hence, on 
 the north-west side of T aloo harbour. Before 
 we reached the sovereign's residence we passed 
 the Queen's, a long low building, with several 
 small square windows in front, and enclosed by 
 a high fence of purau sticks. On the way we 
 had to cross several small streams, over which 
 we were carried on men's shoulders. The 
 natives are very powerful and expert for such 
 service, which, in traversing these islands, is 
 often needed. As we approached the palace, if 
 we may call it so, the royal guards fanned a 
 lon.ir line on one side of the road, with their 
 fire-locks shouldered; some of these were 
 dressed in English costume, and others in native 
 cloth, without any regard to uniformity. This 
 train of soldiers reached to the bamboo fence 
 surrounding the dwelling; when, by aid of 
 step ping-stones on each side, we had surmounted 
 this stockade, we were desired by an oflicer in 
 a scarlet coat to halt. Immediately he gave a 
 signal, and a volley of musketry was tired ; this, 
 
 we understand, is the highest token of respect 
 which the king ever confers upon his visitors. 
 
 After waiting a few moments in this court, 
 we were admitted into the house, and intro- 
 duced by Mr. Nott to Pomare. The king, after 
 the first recognition of his visitors, pointed to 
 some low stools, on his right hand, siirnifyini,' 
 that we should sit down upon them. He him- 
 self was seated on the ground immediately 
 before the door, a large mat being spread over 
 the long dry grass that covered the floor, and a 
 calico sheet laid upon that part of the mat which 
 the king occupied. Several pillows were placed 
 behind him against one of the pillars that sup- 
 ported the roof, and on these he leaned during 
 the audience. He was handsomely arrayed in 
 his best robes. He wore on the upper part of 
 his body a white calico shirt, over which was 
 thrown a beautiful tibuta, of native cloth, bril- 
 liantly coloured and ornamented ; the ground 
 being yellow, and various figures stained upon 
 it, with great taste, in the Tahitian style. H U 
 lower limbs, as he reclined, were enveloped with 
 the white sheeting on which he was placed, 
 gathered loosely about him. On a stool, at 
 his left hand, sat the queen Taaroa Vahine ; u 
 young woman about twenty-five years of age, 
 with her son, a fine boy not yet a year and a 
 half old ; and her sister, Taaroamaiturai. at her 
 side. The queen is a short good-looking person, 
 and, comparatively, of a fair complexion. She 
 and her sister were well dressed in the English 
 fashion, with gowns, bonnets, and, what 
 rare, shoes and stockings. The little prince had 
 nothing on but a thin muslin vest, that reached 
 below his knees. He is not yet weaned; the 
 queen, his mother suckles him, and she per- 
 formed that maternal duty several times in our 
 presence. The boy's name is Teariitaria. Near 
 this group sat the princess Aimata, a healthy 
 girl about ten years of age, by Pomarc's fornur 
 spouse. Her skin is of a darker tincture than 
 her half-brother's. She was neatly clad in a 
 blue-flowered frock, and wore a straw bonnet. 
 Next to her were .seated three ladies of honour, 
 dressed in English cottons : two of thes> 
 very corpulent. To the queen, her son, the 
 princess, her sister, and these three female at- 
 tendants, we were formally introduced, and h-.ul 
 the honour to shake hands with each. On one 
 side of the door, nearly in front of the king, sat 
 Tati, his prime minister; and further off ranged 
 through the interior of the spacious apartment, 
 stood a great number of chiefs and servants of 
 the household. Many other persons on the 
 outside were permitted to look in upon the 
 scene, through the interstices of the enclosure or 
 walls, which were nothing more than purau 
 staves fixed in the ground, in the usual manner. 
 In a corner of the building stood the king's bed, 
 screened by a curtain of native cloth, which 
 formed a small recess, with space sufficient for a 
 bedstead. The house was about sixty feet Ions; 
 by forty wide, without division of rooms; and, 
 besides the bed already mentioned, contained 
 no furniture, except a few Areoi stools, s 
 mats, and some small articles of domestic 
 
 convenience. 
 
BOUNTY OF POMARE. 
 
 2 9 
 
 Tomare. 
 
 When \ve were duly seated, we firs) inquired 
 after his majesty's health ; to which he replied, 
 that it was the same as it had been for some 
 time, and he was still suH'cring pain. We then 
 announced the purpose of our visit to his domi- 
 nions, and delivered to him the most respectful 
 remembrance and regards of the society which 
 we represented ; assuring him of the gratitude 
 and esteem, in which his protection and encou- 
 ragement of the missionaries were held by 
 the directors and officers. We then produced 
 the letters which we had brought for him, from 
 the society, and stated that the presents, ac- 
 cording to his own desire, had been left at 
 Tahiti. He returned a very gracious answer, 
 expressing his pleasure at beholding us on his 
 islands, as a deputation from the Society in Eng- 
 land. We next thanked the king for his kind- 
 ness towards our brethren, who were stationed 
 here as preachers of the gospel, and cordially 
 congratulated him on the glorious and peaceful 
 triumphs of that blessed gospel over the ancient 
 cruel and abominable idolatries that prevailed 
 before missionaries visited these shores ; 
 triumphs, in which we were confident he him- 
 self must heartily rejoice, since, under God, he 
 had been eminently instrumental in promoting 
 them. 
 
 Pomare now inquired concerning the opera- 
 tions of the Society in other regions of the earth, 
 and seemed highly gratified with the glad tidings 
 which we were enabled to bring him, respecting 
 the progress of the gospel in Africa, the East 
 and West Indies, and elseAvhere. We took 
 this opportunity of recognising the establish- 
 ment of missionary associations, within his own 
 dominions, and returned thanks, on behalf of 
 the parent Society, for the munificent contri- 
 butions of cocoa-nut oil, and other articles of 
 
 native produce, which had been sent by himself 
 and his subjects, and received by our treasurer. 
 We further informed him, that we had brought 
 another missionary and his wife, to be stationed 
 among his people ; also two artisans, the one a 
 carpenter, the other well skilled in the manu- 
 facture of cotton cloth. These we recommended 
 to his special protection ; as it was the desire of 
 the Directors of the Missionary Society to benefit 
 him and his subjects, by teaching them (next to 
 the lessons of eternal truth) useful arts and 
 occupations, whereby, even in the comforts of 
 this life, they might be raised far above their 
 former state. In this he appeared cheerfully to 
 concur. 
 
 The discourse then turned on European 
 politics. He asked concerning the state of 
 France since the restoration of the old family 
 and government ; and mentioned Buonaparte 
 as being in safe custody. We told him that we 
 had left France, England, and all Europe at 
 peace ; that the King of the British Islands, 
 George the Fourth, was in good nealth, and the 
 country in a state of increasing prosperity in its 
 commercial concerns; we laid particular stress 
 on the benefits which England derived from the 
 influence and example of his (Pomare's) late 
 friend, George the Third, in encouraging agri- 
 cultural improvements, general industry, and 
 education by means of schools, in which not 
 only ordinary, but Christian instruction was 
 given to the children of the poor; we added, 
 that our present enlightened Sovereign and 
 many of the nobility, as well as the ministers of 
 the Gospel, and a vast number of the pro- 
 fessors of religion among us, were promoting 
 the knowledge of the sacred Scriptures, in every 
 quarter of the earth, to which access could 
 be obtained, by sending to all people in their 
 
30 
 
 SOCIAL MEETINGS COTTON MILL. 
 
 own language translations of the words of 
 eternal life. We had not sat long, when he 
 ordered wine to be brought, with glasses, which 
 were placed on a low stool before us. We 
 each, after the manner of our own country, 
 drank to the king's better health, with good 
 wishes for the welfare of the queen, his son and 
 daughter. Pomare himself took a small quan- 
 tity of wine, mixed with water, in a large 
 tumbler. Fearing that our presence and con- 
 versation might prove fatiguing to him, as he 
 was evidently very much indisposed, we rose to 
 depart, but he requested us to stay a little longer, 
 and then we were conducted to the court-yard 
 t<> view the presents which he had provided for 
 us. These consisted of fourteen fine hogs, and 
 five large heaps of bananas, mountain plantains, 
 taro, (arum costatum,) bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, 
 &c., placed on frames, like hand-barrows, each 
 as heavily loaded as two men could carry. We 
 returned to acknowledge the royal bounty, ma- 
 nifested by these gifts, as well as those we had 
 received in Tahiti, on Friday last, after which 
 we took our leave, highly gratified with the 
 circumstances of this audience. 
 
 Pomare, so far as we could judge, for we only 
 saw him seated, has more of personal dignity 
 than could be expected from one who had been 
 so lately a rude and fierce barbarian. In stature, 
 we are told, he reaches six feet two inches, with 
 limbs and frame athletic in proportion. His 
 countenance is far superior in comeliness, as 
 well as in expression, to the engraved portrait 
 which has been published in England, though 
 that presents a general likeness. The visage 
 is long, the features bold, the lips thick, and the 
 nose broad-set, according to the prevailing traits 
 of the Tahitians ; but his complexion is swar- 
 thier than ordinary among his countrymen. He 
 wears his beard rather long on the upper lip, 
 reserving also a small tuft between the lower 
 lip and the chin. His hair is worn short round 
 the front and sides of the head, with one long 
 lock behind, which was rolled up and fastened 
 at the crown. His hands are considerably 
 tatooed, particularly round the joints of the 
 fingers. His manner appeared courteous and 
 all'able, though grave, and he was occasionally 
 languid from ill health ; but, as we are informed, 
 he is never loquacious. Every one speaks of 
 him as a man of talents, judgment and foresight ; 
 as well as possessed of far more general know- 
 ledge than could be expected, considering the 
 few and imperfect means he has enjoyed of 
 gaining instruction. His subjects look up to 
 him as an oracle, and behave, in his presence, 
 with profound veneration. When we remem- 
 ber how lately he was sole and despotic arbiter 
 of life and property throughout these islands, 
 much credit is due to him for having exercised 
 his authority with comparative mildness and 
 equity ; those instances of rapacity and op- 
 pression, which occasionally .occur, being in 
 fact exceptions from the acknowledged for- 
 bearance and lenity of his usual government. 
 
 In the after part of the day we proceeded to 
 the place of worship, to meet the church and 
 congregation of believers here, according to ap- 
 
 pointment. These were all assembled to meet 
 us in their best apparel ; and, with looks of the 
 most animated satisfaction, they welcomed us 
 as we entered, and made our countenances to 
 reflect corresponding delight, even as face an- 
 swereth to face in water. ]VIr. Tyerman opened 
 the meeting with prayer. We were then con- 
 ducted to that part of the chapel where the 
 deacons and church-members, a hundred and 
 three in number, were seated. To these we 
 gave the right hand of fellowship, in the name 
 of the Missionary Society, and all those Chris- 
 tian friends in England whom we represented 
 on this occasion. We afterwards addressed the 
 audience, and congratulated them on what God 
 had done for them, since it had pleased Him to 
 open the eyes, the ears, and the understandings 
 of the population of these beautiful and seques- 
 tered isles, (long under the dominion of the 
 prince of darkness) to see and hear and know 
 the things that belonged to their peace. After 
 expatiating at some length on the propagation 
 of the gospel, in other parts of the world, by 
 Missionary, Bible, Tract, and School ^Societies, 
 the word preached and taught being every- 
 where accompanied by signs following, a hymn 
 was sung, and Mr. Bemiet closed the meeting 
 with prayer. Mr. Nott was our interpreter. 
 We then shook hands with all the baptized and 
 candidates for baptism. Never had we wit- 
 nessed more Christian affection 'and unity of 
 spirit. The fruits of the gospel are the same 
 everywhere, love, joy, and peace, social as 
 well as personal. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Project of a Cotton mill Shells, &c. Magnificent na- 
 tural panorama Night-scene Banns of marriage 
 Palma Christi and other plants Native n. 
 Great Marae Arabu, thief of Eimeo Cowri- 
 Kc.nrin Catholic missionary Trials of the tir>t preach 
 ers of the Gospel hen iogoerj of UM falaawn fn 
 morly Their present character contrasted Idolatrous 
 1'ri. Ms Second interview with I'.nnare T.it'>..in-_ 
 Mosquitoes Return to Tahiti Housekeeping Native 
 manners Barter trade. 
 
 Oct. 16. THIS morning, accompanied by the 
 Missionaries, we went up the valley, to exa- 
 mine a situation which had been pointed out 
 as eligible for a mill of any kind, but especially 
 for cotton works, such as were proposed to be 
 constructed by Mr. Armitage. The supply of 
 water by a plentiful stream, the pleasantness, 
 healthfulness, and fertility of the situation, with 
 its proximity to the residences of the Mission- 
 aries, seemed to render this spot in every way 
 suited for such an establishment. The vast 
 amphitheatrical bosom of the mountains might 
 graze thousands of cattle ; and it was with plea- 
 sure that we saw several cows and a bull eating 
 the luxuriant herbage on their slopes. This 
 small herd belongs to Mr Henry, and supplies 
 him abundantly with milk and butter. Pomare 
 has signified his approbation of this plan of a 
 cotton factory, " if the man can carry it into 
 effect." These words repeated several times, 
 intimate not only some doubt on the part of the 
 king of success, but some prejudice against the 
 
TALOO HARBOUR MOUNT GYLES. 
 
 31 
 
 undertaking, from the failure of Mr. Gyles's 
 previous experiment. 
 
 In the afternoon we ascended the fine har- 
 bour and river-mouth in two canoes. On the 
 coral rocks and the beach as we proceeded we 
 collected the following shells : the areho, a 
 small brown turbinate, a quarter of an inch 
 long, found adhering to a leaf in the water ; a 
 small muscle of delicate taste, called by the 
 natives pice; tona, a large cockle; the ehi, 
 another bivalve of the same species, but larger 
 even than the former ; also the pui, a brown 
 worm, marked with black rings, an inch apart ; 
 some of these worms were from one, to one and 
 a half, and two feet in length ; they lay at the 
 bottom of the shoals, and when taken out seem- 
 ed to be nothing more than long slender blad- 
 ders of water. The piao t or brown butterfly, 
 was flying in great numbers around. We met a 
 man who had caught a singularly splendid fish. 
 It resembled a flounder in shape, being twelve 
 inches by six in length and breadth. The pre- 
 vailing colour was a silvery grey, the tail and 
 side fins of the richest gold, the delicate shades 
 of which were radiated beyond the junctures of 
 these with the body. The natives call this fish 
 paraha, and consider it excellent food. We 
 ob-rrved likewise a small species of sprat called 
 ona, the body of which is brown, the fins black. 
 The maau toria, a small bird like a plover, was 
 frequently seen sitting on the rocks. 
 
 This, which is the Taloo harbour of Captain 
 Cook, is one of the finest in the world for 
 depth, safety, and convenience of obtaining 
 fresh water and wood. It is nearly three miles 
 in length, by half a mile in width. The deep 
 water continues at the sides to the A cry 
 shore, so that a ship may approach close, and 
 be moored fast to a tree with perfect security. 
 The entrance is through the opening of a reef, 
 which runs across the mouth, and protects it 
 from heavy seas. When we had a<l\anrr ( | 
 about two miles towards the head of this bay, 
 we came to a bar of sand brought down by the 
 river. Over this the natives dragged the ca- 
 noes, and then we were paddled a mile up the 
 stream, on either bank of which the most luxu- 
 riant tropical vegetation expanded, in the ma- 
 jestic aito t (Cassuarina,} chestnut, vi-apple, and 
 cocoa-nut trees; with innumerable puraus of 
 every size and form ; shrubs and plants, espe- 
 cially the cryptogamous ones, flourishing in the 
 richest abundance, and often of prodigious mag- 
 nitude. 
 
 We landed near the site of the sugar-mills 
 formerly erected by Mr. Gyles, now in ruins ; 
 the valuable parts of the machinery having been 
 removed by Mr. Bicknell junior, and Pomare, 
 with the view it is said of recommencing the 
 works at Tahiti. The sugar scheme failed here, 
 in consequence of the king's jealousy, excited 
 by false alarms insinuated into his mind by 
 foreigners, that slavery and the culture of the 
 cane were necessarily associated ; as though the 
 Europeans would presently come and possess 
 themselves of the islands, when they found that 
 sugar was produced in them. From the site of 
 the dilapidated mills we ascended Mount Gyles, 
 
 (so called from the late settler here) which 
 stands nearly in the midst of a vast circumval- 
 lation of toAvering eminences, that meet and 
 astonish the eye at every turn. 
 
 The mountains, with surpassing grandeur, 
 and not less beauty of contour and colouring, 
 when seen at due distance, do indeed form cor- 
 responding Avails to what may be styled an 
 immense rotunda, roofed with a blue expanse 
 of firmament, overhanging the pinnacles of the 
 everlasting hills. Here, were such an occasion 
 to arrive, a fit theatre might be found for the 
 assembled population of an empire, to receive a 
 message from heaven by the voice of the arch- 
 angel, and the trump of God, whose sound 
 should go forth, and be heard throughout the 
 whole area and circumference, croAvded with 
 gazing, listening, or adoring multitudes. The 
 proportions of this temple of earth and sky (for 
 such it appeared) were so harmonious and 
 exact, that its immensity was lost at first sight, 
 for want of a contrast Avhereby to measure its 
 parts. But Avhen AVC looked back upon the 
 harbour of Taloo, and saw the steep decliAdties 
 by which we had ascended from the beach, di- 
 minished like peaked points beneath our feet, 
 AVC were then made almost tremblingly sensible 
 of the magnitude of the mountains that here 
 engirdled our horizon, and the breadth of the 
 interjacent valley, in the middle of which we 
 stood, and felt hoAV little is man when he per- 
 ceives but a glimpse of the greater Avorks of 
 God, though they are unconscious matter, and 
 he a living intellectual soul. Yet is there an 
 exaltation (akin to the immortality that stirs 
 within him), even in that humbling sense of 
 littleness ; for it is not his inferiority to mounds 
 of earth, and tracts of Avater, which he feels, 
 but his utter nothingness before Him Avho made 
 all these, and into whose presence-chamber he 
 seems to be brought, when scenes like that 
 Avhich we Avere contemplating overpower the 
 nerves, and almost disembody the spirit by the 
 entrancement Avhich they induce. Language 
 can convey no distinct idea of such a panorama 
 as here stretched around us. The ground, 
 clothed with exuberant vegetation, rises gra- 
 dually from the coast tOAvards this interior dis- 
 trict, where the whole surface bursts as it were 
 into abrupt and precipitous elevations, the 
 crests of Avhich are naked rocks of stupendous 
 bulk and strangest forms. Some seem to stand 
 on very narroAV bases, Avith broad and beetling 
 fronts ; one facing the harbour resembles a 
 huge to Aver, surmounted by a sharp spire ; in 
 another place, a mass of dark stone apart from 
 the adjacent range, (Avhich is broAvn basalt) 
 bears a rude likeness to the head and shoulders 
 of a man. The valleys intersecting these gigan- 
 tic heights are as lovely and fertile as the eye 
 can desire to look upon, Avhen, giddy and be- 
 Avildered with gazing on fhe terrible sublimities 
 above, it seeks repose in the green dells and 
 shady solitudes below. 
 
 In the evening, while we slowly returned 
 across the harbour, the glimmering of the stars 
 as they multiplied over head gave to the faded 
 realities of day-light the unsubstantial forms of 
 
33 
 
 NATIVE MARTYRS. 
 
 shadows ; woods, rocks, and mountains being 
 alike dark shapes, and the sea itself an invisible 
 mirror of the firmament, in which, beneath as 
 above, the planets Jupiter from the east, and 
 Venus from the west, contended with each 
 other in brilliancy and beauty. 
 
 It added much to our enjoyment on this ex- 
 cursion to be in company with the only two 
 remaining Missionaries, Mr. Nott and Mr. 
 Henry, who first came out in the ship Duff with 
 Captain Wilson ; and while on our return at 
 night-fall, we sang in our boat upon the water, 
 " God moves in a mysterious way his won- 
 ders to perform," &c., these fathers of the Poly- 
 nesian church acknowledged that He had often 
 thus dealt with them, and having found Him 
 ever faithful, they had learned to trust in Him 
 under the darkest dispensations cf Providence. 
 
 Oct. 17. Mr. Nott preached this afternoon to 
 a congregation of about three hundred persons. 
 At the close of the service, the banns of mar- 
 riage were published between a young man and 
 woman, who, having formed a strong attach- 
 ment, desired to be united. A relative of the 
 female however, disapproving of the match, 
 stood up and forbade it. This brought on a 
 short altercation between the parties. Some 
 friends of the young man had objected in the 
 first instance, but having been induced after- 
 wards to consent, the young woman's friends 
 determined to retaliate, and were not now to 
 be appeased. The disappointed couple, there- 
 fore, in great affliction were obliged to post- 
 pone their nuptials till all who were interested 
 should be reconciled. After public worship 
 most of the people retired to the adjoining 
 school-room, to attend a prayer meeting at 
 which the queen and her sister were present. 
 These personages are always accompanied by 
 two soldiers armed with muskets wherever 
 they go. 
 
 Towards evening we visited some of the 
 plantations in the neighbourhood of the king's 
 house. Here we saw tin- plant called /xr/Hi, a 
 kind of rush, the long spires of which are used 
 in making the finest mats. The paper mulberry 
 called auti, (Mortis papijrifcra,) grows in great 
 luxuriance here ; its bark furnishes the mate- 
 rial for the best native cloth. The stem is sel- 
 dom more than an inch in diameter, rising to 
 tin- height of six or seven feet, and producing a 
 broad, rough, light-green leaf. We wore shown 
 a it hi ii, or press, by which the residue of the 
 cocoa-nut oil is extracted, after the better por- 
 tion has been drained oil' by the process for- 
 merly described. The bamboo-bottles, in which 
 the oil is kept, are single joints of that cane, 
 which hold from two to three quarts each. The 
 oil is introduced by a small hole pierced 
 through the partition at one (Mid: when full, 
 the aperture is plugged up, and bound over 
 with the leaf of the fara, (Patidanus) tied tight 
 with purau bark. The palina christi, or castor 
 oil plant, irrows plentifully in these islands. It 
 produces its berries, at the same time, in every 
 sta^e, from small green clusters to full ripe 
 ones; and frequently in the same bunch the 
 crude and the yellow appear intermingled. 
 
 This seems to be the case in some degree with 
 most of the fruit-bearing trees in this climate, 
 which being evergreen themselves, yield, con- 
 temporaneously and in succession, leaves, blo>- 
 soms, and fruit the vi-apple (Spondieu dull-in 
 of Parkinson), and one other tree alone being 
 deciduous. 
 
 We called upon the church deacon already 
 mentioned, as being a chief and judge under 
 the king. "When this man first embraced the 
 gospel, he became an object of hatred and 
 abhorrence to the idolaters. A party of these 
 had once conspired to kill him, when he and a 
 few other pious persons were assembled together 
 in the evening for prayer. The ruffians came 
 secretly upon them armed with muskets, and 
 levelling their pieces, were about to destroy the 
 whole group at a volley. Their deliverance 
 was singularly providential ; the marked vic- 
 tims within knew nothing of the lurkinu 
 sins without, yet were the latter restrained 
 from executing their diabolical purpose by an 
 influence which (as they declared afterward*) 
 they could not understand. Seized with sud- 
 den horror at the deed on which they had been 
 so desperately bent, they threw down the mur- 
 derous engines, and rushing into the room, 
 confessed their guilt. The Christians i 
 them with so much kindness, and so freely tor- 
 gave them, thus heaping coals of fire upon 
 their heads, that they were xitterly overcome, 
 and went away, promising never to molest them 
 again ; and they kept their word. Two others 
 ho\ve\er who had professed the Christian faith 
 were called to seal their testimony with their 
 blood. Their persecutors having surprised 
 them, and escape being cut off, they meekly 
 said, " We know what you want. You may 
 kill our bodies ; our souls you cannot kill ; 
 do your pleasure." They were slauirht- 
 cold blood, and their remains offered at the 
 marae in sacrifice to the idol-godi ; bn: 
 fices of every kind to the " abominati- 
 Eimeo, were soon after abolished for . 
 
 Oct. IS. Wishing to visit a marae once held 
 in extraordinary \eneration, at th 
 seven mile* westward, we sent to the king to 
 request the loan of a suitable canoe. Oi 
 immediately sent, with a sufficient number of 
 nathes to paddle it to the desired spot. On 
 our wa\ we touched at two small iiwtir* 
 pient islands) composed of coral rock, and 
 scarcely above the level of high water. On 
 these, the aito (ca-suarina M&roryioM, the iron- 
 wood of Europeans) grows in great luxuriance, 
 entirely covering the surface, and presenting 
 the appearance of a forest upon the 
 of these islets is about a mile and a half in cir- 
 cuit, and distant half a mile from the i-< 
 Eimeo. Some rabbits have been turned loose 
 upon one of them, in hope that they may breed 
 there. 
 
 The wind being contrary, we landed before 
 we had reached the marae, and walked thither 
 along the shore. Here we passed a spacious 
 chapel (itself formerly a marae), where had 
 been held the annual Missionary Meeting for 
 the -adjacent islands, in May last. On that oc- 
 
GREAT MARAE ARABU, CHIEF OF EIMEO. 
 
 casion three thousand persons were assembled. 
 This building is famous for having been the 
 rendezvous of the Areois. Here they celebrated 
 their horrid excesses ; and here the doom of 
 thousands, when hostilities were meditated, had 
 often been decided by the auguries of the 
 priests. This structure, in the native style, is 
 two hundred and ten feet in length, forty-five 
 wide, supported by seventy pillars at the sides, 
 and having nine others withiu, placed along the 
 middle to support the ridge-tree. When the 
 glorious revolution took place, the king trans- 
 formed this haunt of all that was unclean into a 
 Christian sanctuary. 
 
 Thence we proceeded to the great marae, or 
 rather assemblage of several maraes, built on a 
 projecting point of land ; such situations often 
 being chosen as most conspicuous at sea, ami 
 most convenient for landing canoes. Near the 
 sea, upon the very beach, is a large heap of 
 massy stones a hundred feet long, and twenty 
 feet high. The side near the Avater is in ruins, 
 many of the blocks having fallen down ; the 
 other side bears more distinct traces of its ori- 
 ginal construction, several of the steps or 
 courses of hewn stone remaining entire. Ad- 
 joining are the dilapidated walls of tAvo enclo- 
 sures. In one of these the priest was Avont to 
 officiate in a sitting posture, with his back rest- 
 ing against a huge stone, formerly erect, now 
 prostrate. In this attitude he offered up pray- 
 ers to the idol, which Avas placed at the oppo- 
 site end. Fragments of carved ornaments in 
 Avood Avere lying about, mingled Avith the n lies 
 of hogs and fishes, once offered in sacrifice. 
 At a short distance stands a second marae, 
 nearly perfect. This consists of three steps, 
 the front stones of which are hewn, having 
 courses of rounded ones ranged alternately in 
 I:IJMX \\ith tin-in. The summit is half the 
 width and length of the basement; the interior 
 has been filled up with coral blocks. A quarter 
 of a mile from this stood the house of the gods. 
 Here their images AVITU deposited, but having 
 been ejected, their dwelling has fallen into irre- 
 parable decay ; stones, beams, and rafters are 
 ottered over the ground, mouldering and 
 overrun Avith rank vegetation. These hideous 
 dens and dungeons of idolatry are surrounded 
 by a gloomy grove of what once A\*ere sacred 
 trees the ati, aito, and others ; beneath whose 
 melancholy shades the rites of blood and the 
 orgies of darkness were celebrated, a specta- 
 cle for fiends to glory in, and from which, an- 
 gels, if they came nigh, Avould turn aAvay and 
 Aveep. 
 
 A* we came aAA'ay AVC met Tarahoi, a hoary- 
 headed man, who had formerly been a prophet 
 of Oro (the god of Avar). At this place Mr. 
 Henry has seen him, in a fit of pretended in- 
 spiration, convulsed through all his limbs, dis- 
 torting his countenance, and foaming at the 
 mouth like one A r erily possessed by an evil spi- 
 rit. His oracles, uttered in unnatural ejacula- 
 tions, Avert; Avords of fate, and on them depended 
 life or death, Avur or peace; kings and people 
 being equally sAvaycd by bis mysterious coun- 
 sels. Leaving him, AVC proceeded to the resi- 
 
 dence of Arabu, the principal chief of Eimeo, 
 AA'ho, though he Avas one of the last to yield to 
 Christianity, has been among the first of its 
 professors in every good word and work. He 
 had prepared a bountiful refreshment for us ; 
 but Avhile it Avas setting out, presented us Avith 
 cocoa-nut Avater, of which we took a welcome 
 draught after the morning's fatigue. A number 
 of natiA'es meanwhile came into the house, the 
 whole floor of Avhich Avas carpeted with hand- 
 some mats in honour of our visit. "We seized 
 the opportunity of addressing the company, in 
 earnest and affectionate terms, on their eternal 
 interests. They listened with humble and ap- 
 parently sincere devotion. The entertainment 
 which Avas HOAV brought in, consisted of an en- 
 tire hog, smoking from the oven, borne by tAvo 
 men, who placed it on a tray upon the floor, 
 at the side of a large wooden bo\vl called an 
 umitl, containing a baked foAvl and bread-fruit. 
 The table-cloth, consisting of purau IcaA'es, was 
 spread beside these dishes before us (the guests), 
 in a circular form about four feet in diameter. 
 After a blessing had been implored, a native 
 carver with a large knife separated portions of 
 the flesh, foAvl, and bread-fruit, laying them in 
 turn before us ; when we all ate and were sa- 
 tisfied. While AVC Avere enjoying this repast, 
 AVC could not prevail upon our kind host to par- 
 take of any thing with us. This is the custom 
 of the country. Whatever is set before their 
 guests is expected to be eaten by them, or taken 
 away. Here Avas an ample supply both for 
 ourseh-es and our attendants, who gladly car- 
 ried off all that remained. We stayed so long 
 Avith this hospitable chief, that night overtook 
 us in our canoe before we could reach home. 
 But the evening Avas serene ; not a breeze ruf- 
 fled the lagoon, and the natives think nothing 
 of striking upon sunken rocks in these still 
 Avaters; when such an accident happens, they 
 jump out, and heave the light bark over the 
 obstruction, then spring back to their seats, and 
 paddle aAvay again in perfect security from 
 fear at least. We arrived safe, but late, at the 
 missionary station. 
 
 Oct. 19. In rambling among the rocks and 
 coral reefs, \ve have found many objects of in- 
 terest and curiosity, in natural history. The 
 poreho, or cowrie, abounds in its numerous and 
 elegant varieties. The rimu, a purple spunge, 
 adheres to the corals, and looks beautiful under 
 the Avater. TAVO species of eels are common 
 here ; the one about six inches long, and the bulk 
 of a goose-quill ; the other smaller still, Avith a 
 mouth projected far beyond the head, at the 
 extremity of a large snout. We remarked also 
 the tiokit, a description of toad-fish, fiA r e inches in 
 length, thick and chubby in its form ; Avith small 
 eyes, sunk deep into its head, and just behind 
 an uncouth mouth, which opens xnrvvards. It 
 has gills and fins, with a TOAV of sharp spikes 
 upon its back, and is assuredly one of the most 
 loathsome things to look upon in the animal 
 creation. It lies at the bottom of the Avater, 
 and is so nearly the colour of the sand as not to 
 be easily discoA'ered. This creature is the dread 
 of the natives, Avho sometimes tread upon it 
 
 D 
 
:u 
 
 POPISH MISSIONARIES TRIALS OF THF, FIRST PRL'ACJi 
 
 with their naked feet, which the keen prickles 
 upon its back pierce deeply, and cause excruciat- 
 ing torture. A locked jaw, and death, are some- 
 times the results of being lacerated by this miser- 
 able little urchin, which happily is not common. 
 Another plague to the natives is the kuruhuru- 
 mau, a crab-like insect, which also pricks their 
 feet, and gives exquisite pain. We found a 
 brown, speckled gelatinous animal, a species of 
 Sepia, having two horn-like projections on its 
 head, and two below the neck; also two flaps, 
 that double over its back, from which it ejects a 
 purple fluid, when disturbed. Many small fishes, 
 singular in shape and splendidly tinctured, play 
 among the coral groves, or glide beneath the 
 smooth lagoons. 
 
 Oct. 20. We ascended, to a considerable 
 height, the mountain behind, the missionary 
 settlement, from which a commanding prospect 
 of the adjacent reefs and winding shores is ob- 
 tained. The rocks are basaltic, of close and 
 hard texture, containing a considerable portion 
 of ferruginous matter; when exposed to tin- 
 atmosphere the metal oxydizes, and the mass 
 assumes a deep-black colour. 
 
 Wt> received a present of fishes from Pomare. 
 One of these, called oirihumu, is curious. It is 
 eighteen inches long and half as many broad ; 
 the shape oval; the tail and fins yellow, with :i 
 border of bitch ; strong and sharp teeth arm 
 either jaw; besides which, it lias a formidable 
 defensive apparatus, both on the back and under 
 the belly, namely three sharp pointed bones 
 curving backwards, connected by a membrane ; 
 these the fish can raise for the annoyance of an 
 enemy, or contract, so as to lie Hat with the 
 body at pleasure. There are in e rous, also, of 
 short spires extending about the tail. It is 
 esteemed delicate food. 
 
 Oct. 21. We have lately been told th:.:. 
 ral years before the arrival of our missionaries, 
 some Popish adventurers, from Lima, in IVrn, 
 came to establish the Roman faith here, as had 
 been done by their church throughout South 
 America. They settled in Tahiti, where they 
 built a commodious house, and enclosed the 
 spaee about it with a strong fence, to protect 
 their live stock of hogs and fouls. The natives, 
 howe\ er, l, v one ingenious stratagem or another, 
 contrived to rob them of everything ; by fish- 
 hooks and lines catching the fowls, and by more 
 violent means possessing themselves of the 
 swine. At length, finding that the natives 
 treated all their attempts to convert them with 
 derision, and besides plundering them of their 
 property, continually harassed them with knavish 
 pranks on one occasion alarming them with 
 the apprehension that poison had been given to 
 them, when they had been induced to taste of 
 the ft r<; (mi acrid plant so called) which blis- 
 tered their lips as soon as they touched it these 
 unfortunate emissaries abandoned their project 
 in despair, and returned home. 
 
 For many years our Missionaries were used in 
 the ~;ime reckless and mischievous manner ; but 
 neither mockery normal-treatment moved them. 
 Knduring hardness as good soldiers of Jesus 
 Christ, they couldnot be conquered, because they 
 
 would not yield. "These devoted men, so soon as 
 they had gained sufficient mastery of the language, 
 made frequent tours through the islands, pub- 
 lishing from village to village the gospel of 
 peace. They generally travelled two and two 
 together; and when they arrived in a populous 
 neighbourhood, one went to one extremity, and 
 the other to the other, inviting the inhabitants 
 from house to house, to attend at the appointed 
 place. After thus collecting a small flock, and 
 conducting them towards the central rendezvous, 
 one of their reluctant recruits would make this 
 excuse and another that, to go into the bush, to 
 call upon a friend, &c., so that seldom more 
 than ten or twelve could be mustered when the 
 service began. Some of these soon d 
 likewise, and the rest either made game of the 
 preacher, or were themselves laughed to scorn 
 by their profane neighbours. These would say 
 to a deformed person, " Go, you hump-back, 
 to the preacher, and he will set you straight ;" 
 or to a cripple, "Take }our lame leg to the 
 white man, he will cure it." For nearly twenty 
 years, the Missionaries bore reproach and shame 
 willingly, for the Lord Jesus; but it grieved 
 their feeling hearts to see the same ignorance, 
 superstition, lewdness, and cruelty, without 
 diminution, prevailing among the heathen as 
 they found at their landing. Meanwhile, like 
 their Roman Catholic predecessors they could 
 scarcely preserve any moveable p: 
 people who gloried in theft and roguery. One 
 day, when a great quantity of linen and other 
 apparel, which had been washed, 
 to dry in the garden, some expert pilfei 
 means of long bamboos, with tish hooks at the 
 end, abstracted every article, and escaped with 
 the spoil, unperceived ; the houses bein 
 like bird-cages, passers I . \ tiling 
 
 that was hung up within ; and they frequently 
 had the boldness and the skill to mak 
 they coveted their own. Mr. Nott, li- 
 on one occasion, having preached 
 some of them, on the c 
 the publican, the next day one of his : 
 brought a gimblet, a second an axe, a third a 
 hammer, a fourth a book, and other> vinous 
 article* all stolen, and some of them long ago, 
 from ships and strangers the eonscieii- 
 ten culprits confessing their depredatb 
 promising amendment. This afforded some en- 
 couragement, and indeed it was one of the first 
 satisfactory fruits of the labours of our br- 
 ae re. 
 
 Contrasted M-ith by-gone times, in thi< re- 
 spect, and in proof of the honesty of the people 
 now, it may be mentioned, that a pair of | 
 which Mr. Tyerman had lost one night upon 
 the public road, were brought .back to be owned 
 the next day, by a young woman who had found 
 them. We are not yet aware that any tiling 
 has been purloined from us since our landing. 
 Many package*, brought from the ship, have 
 been" (from necessity) left out, night after night. 
 under a shed, which is quite open at OH 
 and nothing has been missed. Let men of the 
 world, in the exercise of ordinary candour, 
 account for this change in the character of a 
 
IDOLATROUS PRIESTS SECOND INTERVIEW WITH POMARE. 
 
 whole people not in one island but in several 
 on any other ground than that of a pure and 
 divine principle superseding a corrupt human 
 one, wherever the gospel has been victorious 
 over idolatry. 
 
 But the most formidable obstacle to the suc- 
 cess of the Missionaries, in their evangelical 
 work, was the apparently indissoluble union of 
 statecraft and priestcraft here ; the civil and 
 ecclesiastical offices, if not lodged in the same 
 individuals, being confined to those who were 
 interested in upholding both force not being 
 sufficient, without fraud, to hold even barbarians 
 under their bondage. Justice and humanity 
 were out of the question ; nothing was too vio- 
 lent or too infamous to be adopted, if it pro- 
 mised to strengthen or to increase royal or sacer- 
 dotal usurpations. The king stood at the head 
 of all the chiefs on the one hand, and of all the 
 priests on the other; consequently, these two 
 bodies supported their common head, while he 
 protected and aggrandised each in return, that 
 he might secure his own ascendency. This 
 crafty and cruel system kept the people in the 
 most abject servility. Whatever the king, the 
 chiefs, or the priest required or commanded, 
 none durst refuse or resist. If any one were so 
 rash, he was marked out as a victim to be sacri- 
 ficed to the demon-divinities, in whose name, 
 and by whose sanction, all acts of oppression 
 were decreed and justified. A poor fellow who 
 had committed an offence of this kind, being 
 aware of his danger, sought sanctuary on the 
 premises of one of the Missionaries, and so long 
 as he remained within the enclosure he was 
 sat,'. Several months had elapsed, and the 
 I affair seemed to be forgotten, when the man 
 ventured forth again. Within three days he 
 was caught, and murdered. His body was 
 carried to the manie, in a basket called haape, 
 made of cocoa-leaves twisted together ; such as 
 the priests used in presenting human sacrifices 
 (after they had been slain at a distance) to their 
 atrocious idols, in whose presence the carcases 
 were hung upon the sacred trees around the 
 shrine. 
 
 Though the king was supreme over the priests 
 as well as the chiefs, it is remarkable what 
 power the former, especially those of Oro, who 
 pretended t<> inspiration, sometimes affected to 
 exercise over him. In their fits of fanatical 
 fren/.y, while delivering oracles, they would 
 a the sovereign's implicit compliance 
 with their mandates, denouncing the most 
 dreadful judgments if he were refractory. One 
 of these insolent impostors, on a certain occa- 
 sion, vehemently urged Pomare to commence 
 some horrid operations on the day following. 
 The king hesitated, saying, " If it rains we shall 
 not be able to proceed." " The weather is in 
 my hands, and there shall be no rain to-morrow," 
 replied the priest. Next day, however, the 
 lain descended in torrents till noon. Mr. Nott, 
 who had heard of what had passed, went to the 
 kin'.:, and pointing to the clouds, as they poured 
 do\\n the water, exclaimed, "What is this, 
 kingl" " What is it 1 ? why, it is rain," an- 
 swered Pomare. " But did not the prophet of 
 
 Oro tell you that the rain was in his hands, and 
 that there should be none to-day V 1 enquired 
 the Missionary. " He did ; but no doubt Oro 
 is angry on some account," replied the king, 
 evidently evading the consequence of such failure 
 in the prediction. This circumstance, and 
 other exposures of the knavery of the pretended 
 prophets, no doubt, had their effect upon that 
 shrewd and intelligent prince, when the eyes of 
 his mind became once a little enlightened to 
 discern the fooleries and atrocities of the an- 
 cient superstition. 
 
 The following circumstance will tend to show 
 how the chiefs, leagued with the priests, main- 
 tained their dignity in the eyes of the people. 
 When a chief was seized with sickness, or when 
 his wife bore him a child, the whole district was 
 immediately laid under a restriction, which 
 they called rahu. This was done by the direc- 
 tion of the priest, who sent a poro (a herald), 
 dressed in green leaves, fastened round his 
 neck, and hanging down to his girdle, to make 
 proclamation, in these words, " Let no fires be 
 kindled; let no food be cooked ; let no canoes 
 put to sea," &c. &c. So long as this prohibition 
 remained, the people were obliged to go to 
 distant parts of the island to prepare their 
 victuals ; nor was it removed till certain prayers 
 had been made, and sacrifices offered at the 
 marae. Meanwhile, if any one dared to violate 
 the interdict, immediate death was the penalty. 
 The gospel was the fittest instrument to break 
 such a yoke ; and it has broken it. 
 
 Oct. 22. We have had a second interview 
 with the king. He proposes to make an aquatic 
 tour round the island of Eimeo, by short stages, 
 for the benefit of his health. He came from 
 his house, early this morning, in his canoe, and 
 being unable to walk appointed us to meet him 
 at the residence of Mr. Bicknell, which is near 
 the beach. His prime minister, Tati, waited 
 upon us to announce his master's wish to take 
 friendly leave of us before his departure. Ac- 
 cordingly we accompanied him to Mr. Bicknell's 
 where we found Pomare lying on a sofa, with 
 his legs and feet covered as before. His breath 
 was short, he often coughed, and showed symp- 
 toms of great weakness as well as pain from 
 indisposition. He told us that he had given 
 orders for all such things to be collected for us 
 (curiosities of the country) as we might desire 
 to take home on our return. We intimated 
 that we should like to have the model of a canoe. 
 He replied, " It is made long ago ;" meaning, 
 that it should certainly and immediately be 
 done. He enquired concerning our plans for 
 future operations ; especially, when we thought 
 of making the tour of Tahiti, as he himself 
 intended to return thither, after having com- 
 pleted his voyage round Eimeo. We explained 
 to him, as far as we could foresee, our purposes 
 in respect to cursorily visiting those windward, 
 and also the leeward islands, in the course of a 
 few months. He afterwards asked what o'clock 
 it was, probably that he mi^ht Anility his curi- 
 osity with the sight of our watches ; being fond 
 lit' all such articles as display exquisite mecha- 
 nical skill in their construction. He is said to 
 
 D 2 
 
;;i; .MAMA, FORMERLY A PROPHET OF ORO POMARE'S PRAYER-HOUSE. 
 
 possess many valuable watches of his own, and 
 to have given no small number away among his 
 chiefs. Having examined ours with much at- 
 tention, he enquired if we had any spectacles. 
 Mr. Bennet produced a pair, with green shades. 
 Pomare put them on, looked through them, and 
 seemed much delighted, but returned them very 
 quietly. When we had .left the house, however, 
 he requested one of the Missionaries to follow 
 us, and propose an exchange of his own green 
 shades, which were too small, with those of Mr. 
 Bennet, which precisely fitted him. The request 
 was of course readily complied with. 
 
 When we had retunied to our friend's house, 
 the queen, her daughter, and her sister, came in, 
 to take leave of us, before commencing their 
 journey with the king. They were all attired in 
 the native fashion, with a cloth girt round the 
 loins, and another thrown loosely over the shoul- 
 ders. Their English dresses, it seems, are 
 their robes of state, and for Sundays. They 
 wore small bonnets, however, and shoes and 
 stockings. 
 
 Two chiefs afterwards visited us. One of 
 these, named Mama, is a man of great influence 
 in Eimeo, and formerly was a prophet of Oro. 
 He assured us, that although he sometimes 
 feigned his fits of inspiration, to deceive the 
 credulous multitude, yet, at other times, they 
 came upon him involuntarily and irresistibly. 
 Something seemed to rush through his whole 
 frame, and overpower his spirit, in a manner 
 which he could not describe. Then he frothed 
 at the mouth, gnashed his teeth, and distorted 
 his limbs with such violence that it required 
 five or six strong men to hold him. At these 
 times his words were deemed oracles, and what- 
 ever he advised respecting state affairs, or other 
 matters, was implicitly observed by king and 
 chiefs. However loath any person might be to 
 admit the reality of satanic possession, in these 
 days, all who have witnessed the fearful inhi- 
 bitions of idolaters while affecting preternatural 
 influences, or have conversed with such as have 
 themselves been actually, or in imagination, 
 under those influences and who, after they 
 have become Christians (when no doubt of their 
 sincerity could be entertained), have declared 
 ingenuously how far they had wilfully imposed 
 upon others, or how far (judging by their pre- 
 sent feelings and convictions) they have been 
 themselves deceived by fanatic excitement, so 
 as to have become the passive instruments of 
 him whose business it is " to deceive the na- 
 tions ;" would feel it very difficult to invali- 
 date the pretension, though there is by no 
 means sufficient evidence absolutely to establish it. 
 
 The two chiefs who called upon us to-day, 
 with many others, are about to accompany the 
 king on his coasting voyage round Eimeo, and 
 thence to Tahiti, to witness the event of his 
 alarming malady ; and to know, as they them- 
 selves informed us, his mind concerning the 
 future government of his dominions. Pomare 
 seems to be very generally esteemed by all 
 classes of his subjects, who regard him as the 
 ::Teate.st. sovereign that ever reigned in these 
 
 In the evening we walked along the foot of 
 the mountain towards the king's house, where 
 we had had our first audience of him. Hard 
 by observing a small cabin, composed of leaves 
 and mats, about the size and shape of a gi]>s\- 
 tent, and open at one end, we enquired of the 
 neighbours what it was ; when we were an- 
 swered that it was a fare bure raa t a housa of 
 prayer, belonging to Pomare, into which he is 
 accustomed often to retire, for secret devotion. 
 It stands near the beach, is shaded by a feu- 
 trees, 'and surrounded with a fence. We could 
 not look upon such an orator)-, for such a man, 
 without deep emotion. 
 
 Oct. 23. We have often been struck with 
 the singular ingenuity displayed in the tatooing 
 of the bodies and limbs of these people. N ! 
 two are marked alike. Different figures and 
 devices, according to every one's fan 
 imprinted upon their skins, with a regularity 
 and beauty which cannot but excite admiration. 
 In very few instances the face was tatooed ; the 
 chest, arms, loins, legs, and hands of the men 
 were principally thus ornamented. The women 
 are tatooed 011 the same parts, but more 
 ally and curiously about the ancles, and over the 
 foot as far as the toes. The rank of th 
 vidual might frequently be guessed by the 
 quantity ami character of these elegant delinea- 
 tions. We cannot learn that tatooing had any 
 immediate relationship to idolatry, or any of its 
 rites; there is little doubt that it was an artiiir,- 
 employed to enhance personal beauty, according 
 to the notions prevalent here, as well as amon.r 
 other barbarous nations, with whom this usage 
 obtains. As soon as Christianity v. 
 the practice was conscientiously aband.me.l. 
 None of the young people are seen thus deco- 
 rated, though some attempts have been inaile to 
 revive the fashion in several of the island-. In 
 fact, it is now looked upon as a badge of hea- 
 thenism, and if openly resumed, in any district, 
 would be regarded as a symptom and signal of 
 revolt against the existing government, of which 
 Christianity is the avowed basis. Tatooi: 
 executed by professional artists, who travelled 
 about the country for employment, and obtain- 
 ed ample recompence from their customers, m 
 hogs, cloth, fruit, and whatever else they 
 wanted. The operation was generally per- 
 formed at the age of twelve or thirteen years. 
 The whole was not accomplished at once, but 
 at different times, as the patient was able to 
 bear the pain and inflammation that followed 
 every stage of the process. The instruments 
 used were flat bits of hard bone, an inch in 
 length and of different widths, from an eighth 
 to a quarter of an inch. One edge of each 
 piece was cut into fine, close spikes, like a very 
 small-toothed comb ; it was then fastened to a 
 stick four inches long, as the head of a rake i- 
 attached to the handle. This being held be- 
 tween the fore-finger and thumb of one hand 
 of the operator, and the indented eilire struck 
 gently with a piece of wood, held in like man- 
 ner in his other hand, inflicted as many punc- 
 tures in the skin as there were points in the 
 instrument. The colouring matter was intro- 
 
MOSQUITOES RETURN TO TAHITI. 
 
 duced with the strokes, the teeth of the bony 
 tool being each time dipped into a preparation, 
 of soot, produced by the burnt candle-nut, 
 collected in a small oven, and mixed with water 
 to the consistency of cream. This colouring, in 
 the olive skins of the natives, becomes an inde- 
 lible dark blue ; and where the tatooing has 
 bct-n well executed the patterns resemble ex- 
 quisite network, or delicate embroidery. It is 
 remarkable, that though the parts which bear 
 these impressions are liable to be affected with 
 blotches and scars, like the rest of the body, yet, 
 when the wounds are healed, the figures reap- 
 pear on the sound skin, though sometimes t a 
 little distorted. 
 
 Oct. 24. The weather being favourable, we 
 took leave of our friends, many of whom came 
 to say, " laorana," " all blessings be upon 
 you !" and at eight o'clock a. m. we put of!' in 
 a boat for Tahiti. We were, however, soon 
 compelled, by a cross wind, to land a few miles 
 from the missionary settlement. 
 
 On the beach here there is a marae, built of 
 coral blocks, twenty feet by twelve in length 
 mid breadth, and sloped from the ground like 
 the roof of a house. It is less dilapidated than 
 these forsaken structures generally are. We 
 had often heard of the pious people of these 
 islands retiring among the bushes, for the pur- 
 poses of prayer and communion with God. To- 
 day, we were happy to follow their practice, 
 anil under the shade of thickets or embowering 
 trees, poured out our souls before Him who 
 inhabiteth eternity, and whom we found as 
 verily present among the woody solitudes of 
 Eimeo, as in temples made with hands in our 
 own country at the domestic altar, round 
 which we have worshipped with Christian 
 friends, or in the closet, at our own home, when 
 \\e have shut to the door, and prayed " to our 
 Father which seeth in secret." 
 
 Oct. '21. On our return to Tahiti, feeling the 
 necessity of having some rallying point, as well 
 as store-room for our luggage and provisions, 
 we had engaged a small house at Matavai, 
 which being now conveniently fitted up for our 
 reception, we removed into it from Mr. Nott's. 
 It is :i native dwelling, situated at the head of 
 the bay, and near the river, commanding views 
 of land and water of great extent on the Tahi- 
 tian coast, with the graceful island of Eimeo 
 reposing in aerial perspective, at the distance of 
 ten leagues. On the one hand, about a stone's 
 throw, a chapel of superior architecture, and 
 lartrc dimensions, is rising towards completion; 
 on the other, a rich and productive orchard of 
 orange, lime, citron, and tamarind trees, planted 
 by the first Missionaries. Near this stood their 
 original residence, built by themselves, substan- 
 tially, of wood and stone, but burnt down by 
 the enemies of Pomare, in the first war against 
 Christianity, which drove the king and our 
 brethren from Tahiti, to take refuge in Eimeo. 
 
 The house which we have taken measures 
 thirty feet in front, and is eighteen feet wide. 
 The walls are of purau sticks, placed an inch 
 and a half asunder, so that to European con- 
 stitutions it is airy enough. The roof slopes to 
 
 within six feet of the ground, and is thatched in 
 the native style with broad leaves of the pand anus 
 palm. The door is composed of a few rough 
 boards, clumsily nailed together, and hangs 
 upon leathern hinges, which have once been the 
 soles of a pair of shoes. In front of this, on 
 the outside, there is a small enclosure, formed 
 of stakes driven into the ground, and so high 
 as not very easy to be stepped over. This is to 
 keep out the pigs, which would otherwise visit 
 us in our dwelling, with as much freedom and 
 as little ceremony as the people themselves. At 
 some points boards, and at others mats, arc 
 attached to the walls to keep out a little of the 
 wind and rain. We, however, shall find it con- 
 venient to line the inside with native cloth, to 
 prevent being continually overlooked by curious 
 eyes, hundreds of which are daily peeping and 
 prying around us. The interior arrangements 
 are open-work partitions, like the extreme 
 walls, forming a bed-room and also a place for 
 stores, at each end, with a spacious drawing- 
 room between, carpeted with long grass. Two 
 canteen tables have been lashed together to form 
 one ; boxes placed upon each other are our 
 seats, but not much to be depended on, as their 
 crazy support is very apt to be withdrawn if 
 slightly overbalanced. Our landlord's old bed- 
 stead, a number of casks, and other lumber, 
 furnish one side of this grotesque apartment. 
 Our own iron bedsteads were at first placed on 
 the floor, but we were then so liable to be in- 
 vaded by armies of fleas, peopling the grass 
 with which the floor was strewn, that we were 
 obliged to raise them on stilts, to a height which 
 made the evil of climbing into bed only less 
 than the evil of falling out might have been. 
 lyvcn this precaution did not prevent our be- 
 siegers, the fleas, from storming our nocturnal 
 citadels ; it only put them to a little more trouble 
 in scaling the outworks. But we had multi- 
 tudes of assailants in the air as well as on the 
 ground ; from these (the mosquitoes) our lawn 
 curtains proved a sufficient defence, when we 
 had once excluded the enemy from within, and 
 drawn them round our beds. 
 
 When we commenced housekeeping, we each 
 engaged a native man-servant to wait upon us, 
 cook our victuals, carry us across fords, and help 
 to manage the boat Avhen we had to sail from 
 one place to another. But, however humble 
 our dwelling and scanty our accommodations, 
 we envy not kings their palaces nor great men 
 their splendour. The presence of God, not 
 visible but felt, hath hallowed and blessed our 
 frail tabernacle, which we dedicated to Him 
 from the hour that it became our abode. Here 
 it is our duty and our happiness to serve Him, 
 in that cause to which He has appointed us. 
 Though our slightly-wattled dwelling could have 
 afforded no security against violence, we needed 
 none ; shelter from the elements was all that 
 we wanted. Hither, during the intervals of 
 visiting, and after the fatigues of the day, we 
 retired for privacy ; and at night lay down in 
 peace, fearing no evil, under the never-slumber- 
 ing eye of Him that keepeth Israel ; and amidst 
 a people, lately savages, now Christians 
 
38 
 
 BARTER-TRADE VALLEY OF MATAVAI. 
 
 Christians in their infant state. On an island 
 inhabited only by children, we should not have 
 been more at home and at ease. 
 
 Oct. 29. The Tahitians are very early risers. 
 No sooner does the day begin to dawn than 
 they quit their couches, and proceed to their 
 occupations, beginning with their private and 
 social devotions, for in every house there is 
 family prayer, morning and evening. Whatever 
 these islanders may have been, in their heathen 
 state, they are not the indolent beings now 
 which they were formerly represented to be. 
 They do a great deal of work, but it is chiefly 
 done in the early part of the day, while Euro- 
 peans are in bed. This morning many had 
 assembled about our house, between five and 
 six o'clock, bringing different articles for sale. 
 They were careful, however, not to disturb us. 
 By seven o'clock our sitting-room was crowded. 
 Our visitors brought a great variety of mer- 
 chandise, to tempt us to barter ; such as hogs, 
 goats, fowls, eggs, native cloth, pearl-shells, 
 fishing-hooks (very ingenious and beautiful con- 
 trivances), lines, cordage made of various ma- 
 terials, mats, bags, nets, calabashes for writer 
 vessels, sweet-scented oil, urn it is (large wooden 
 dishes), penus (stone-hammers), stools, spears, 
 hows and arrows, &c. &c. We made various 
 pun-liases by barter; knives, forks, and scissors 
 were in the greatest request, but European 
 doth would have been more acceptable, now 
 that civilization is increasing their wants and 
 their comforts, the former stimulating them to 
 procure the latter by honest industry, and im- 
 provement in such arts and manufactures as 
 the\ already practice, or are learning. 
 
 Among the wares offered for sale wore 
 mourning-bells. These are made of two large 
 pearl-shells, loosely fastened back to back ; 
 when knocked against each other they omit a 
 singularly shrill noise, which may be heard at 
 a considerable distance. These bells were used 
 when a member of a family died, or whon a 
 chief was ill. In the latter instance, the priests 
 went about at night, ringing these hells, making 
 the most dismal noises, and uttering such in- 
 tercessory prayers to the gods as follow : 
 " 7V//// //</; have mercy! Tahi po tc<i ; have 
 mercy, this night! Faa hoia mai to mam; re- 
 store thy own servant ! Kiatoa tenaia ; quench 
 not his life!" This lugubrious mummery was 
 all deceptive and hypocritical, to impose on t In- 
 credulity of the people. The crafty priests 
 cared not for the chiefs any further than as the 
 chiefs were necessary instruments of extortion 
 upon the vassals for the maintenance of idolatry. 
 Kver\ conceivable trick was resorted to for the 
 acquisition of property ; people, chiefs, the 
 sovereign himself, were all fleeced to enrich the 
 greedy hierarchy. The most valuable presents 
 which the king received from England, or ob- 
 tained from the captains of vessels* touching 
 upon his coast, he was generally compelled to 
 oner to the gods. 
 
 Towards evening we walked out into the 
 neighbourhood. In one house we found twelve 
 women diligently employed in beating out cloth 
 from the bark of trees, keeping up a regular 
 
 stroke, to a tune, with their wooden hammers. 
 In the midst of this den lay a new-born infant, 
 upon the floor, fast asleep. As we walked 
 through the grass our clothes, before VM 
 aware, had become studded, nearly all over, 
 with a small burr, called jnripiri, which is so 
 keen that it instantly adheres where it touches ; 
 and, piercing through the thinner parts of the 
 clothing, scratches and inflames the skin. This 
 little plant abounds everywhere, and is, in the 
 vegetable world, what fleas and mosquitoes are 
 in the animal a vexatious companion. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Fishing by Torch li,'ht Valley of Matavai Suffering of 
 tirM Missionaries Rare Birds Ora Tree, &c.] 
 ( Mills Simple Method of producing Fire Traits of 
 Tahitian Character Mode of Living Administration 
 of the Sacrament Diseases of the Natives Hurial of 
 a Child I'TOJHT Names Phosphork-'Matcht's Appre- 
 hensions of a Disturbance American Ship in 
 Hay Account of a Plot onre formed by Tahitiaus t<> 
 seize a European Vessel Providential Preservation of 
 tin: Lives of Mr. Wil>on and Mr. Hennet at Sen The 
 1..M battle of the last Native NVar. 
 
 Oct. 31. Last night our house was surround- 
 ed and assaulted by depredators, who made re- 
 peated attempts to force an entrance, bi. 
 unable. The circun-stance did not give us 
 much uneasiness, the rogues being only pigs 
 and dogs. We were much more anno\ed by 
 our enemies within doors the tleas, which, in 
 spite of our stilted bedsteads, obtruded upon us, 
 and were so ardent and active that sh ep was 
 hopeless in such society. The 11 
 much smaller than those in I'.n-land, and are 
 so nimble that it is next to impossible to 
 them. They breed in the herbless sand, and 
 shelter in the grass that covers the floors of the 
 houses ; happily, the light clothing of the natives 
 affords these vermin little cover for hiding them- 
 selves. 
 
 Several women, accompanied by a ma. 
 engaged this evening in catching iisli, by torch- 
 light. They first made a da i ; 
 of the branches of trees, <-lo>e tutted together. 
 In this three openings were left, through which 
 the water was allowed to run. At each of these 
 one of the party was stationed with a net, 
 which was held in such a manner that - 
 a fish could pass without being entangled. Two 
 others, with their torches, made of dry cocoa- 
 leaves, commenced operations at some distance 
 above ; the one on this side of the stream, the 
 other on that, walking slowly, and striking the 
 water with part of the leaf, to drive the rish 
 downwards into the nets. By this simple con- 
 trivance a large draught was taken. 
 
 Clocks are not yet common in Tahiti, and but 
 few of the people have watches. It is very diffi- 
 cult, therefore, to convey an idea of the exact 
 time when any thing is to be done. "We wished 
 to have an early breakfast to-morrow ; our old 
 landlord told the servants to bake some bread- 
 fruit for us ; he then imitated the crowing of 
 the cock, to signify that it was to be ready when 
 the cock himself should make such a noise in 
 the morning. This venerable man is unwea- 
 ried in his endeavours to accommodate us. He 
 
SUFFERINGS OF FIRST MISSIONARIES RARE BIRDS ORA TREE. 
 
 learned to read and write at an advanced age. 
 This evening we were singing some Tahitian 
 hymns, with the people who came to see us, 
 when he produced a hymn-book, transcribed by 
 himself in a legible hand from a printed copy. 
 The impression first issued was so inadequate 
 to supply the eager demands, that many per- 
 sons were at the pains of thus writing out the 
 hymns for their own use. 
 
 Nov. 1. This morning, accompanied by the 
 Rev. .Messrs. Wilson and Jones, we set out to 
 ascend the valley of Matavai. This valley lies 
 north-west and south-east. Towards the sea 
 it opens into a rich champaign of considerable 
 extent, covered with groves of bread-fruit and 
 cocoa-nut trees; while, inland, it grows nar- 
 rower and narrower, trending like the curva- 
 ture of the stream that winds through it. This 
 stream has a considerable fall in several places ; 
 the bed consists of large black stones ; the width 
 varies, but is generally about twenty yards. 
 The base of the high mountains, on both sides, 
 occasionally comes down to the edge of the 
 water, so that we had, from time to time, either 
 to ford it, or submit to be carried across on 
 men's shoulders. In one part of our progress, 
 we took off our shoes and stockings, and Avalk- 
 ed about a mile barefoot, having to cross the 
 stream six times within that distance. In this 
 short exercise we learned to sympathise with 
 our elder Missionaries, who for many \ears 
 were wont to travel barefoot over the stony 
 tracks of this mountainous and uncultivated 
 country, preaching the gospel wherever they 
 could persuade a few natives to listen to them 
 though that was often with scorn and derision. 
 Sometimes, when they had to cross great 
 breadths of burning sands, they used to furnish 
 themselves with bundles of foliage from the ad- 
 jacent woods, and, laying down a green leaf at 
 every step, they set the soles of their feet suc- 
 cevshrly upon these cool, soft patches of carpet- 
 ing, and thus escaped the blistering effects of 
 treading upon a soil that resembled hot ashes 
 concealing half-extinguished fires. Recollection 
 tit' (lie hardships of these faithful men, while they 
 thus trod their painful way over gravel that cut, 
 and sand that scorched, their feet, in miserable 
 worn-out vestments, and often scantily supplied 
 with food, humbled us by comparison with 
 our easier cross and lighter load ; while it en- 
 deared them also to our affections, as those to 
 whom it was given not only to labour but to 
 suffer for the sake of the Lord Jesus. 
 
 The mountains on either hand rise abruptly 
 and to a considerable altitude : their sides are 
 generally clothed with trees and bushes, which 
 overhung our heads as we went, and closing or 
 opening the scene of sky and valley, frequently 
 presented the most singular and pleasing pic- 
 tures. In several places the crags towered per- 
 pendicularly from the bed of the current, to the 
 height of five hundred feet and more, decorated 
 Avith trees and shrubs, which, starting out of 
 the fissures in their bold faces, seemed to grow 
 in air, suspended and supported of themselves. 
 From the tops of these huge masses of rock, 
 which are but the basement-story of the stupen- 
 
 dous superstructure of mountains, the upper 
 eminences sloped to a fearful elevation beyond, 
 and appeared to hide their sunny peaks in the 
 deep-blue firmament. Throughout the whole 
 valley there are objects of grandeur and awe 
 that overwhelm the beholder and defy descrip- 
 tion. Some years ago, part of an adjacent cliff 
 slid down to the bed of the river here, and 
 dammed up the channel, till the water had 
 spread into a broad pool, which threatened, 
 when it should burst by accumulation, to de-^ 
 vastate all the lower lands. The terrified in- f 
 habitants expected to see their dwellings, plan- 
 tations, and all they possessed, borne onward 
 into the sea, while they had no power to avert 
 or restrain the calamity. Providence, however, 
 so ordered, that the water gradually made its 
 way through the looser materials, till the leak- 
 age had slowly opened a moderate vent, through 
 which the whole body drained off, without 
 doing any further injury. 
 
 The stones of the river are volcanic and cor- 
 respond with those of the adjacent rocks, being 
 chiefly a coarse breccia or pudding-stone, com- 
 posed of blue rag and chert in brown clay ; the 
 material is exceedingly hard and resembles the 
 substance of Roman walling found in our own 
 country. Some of the porous blocks contain 
 small quantities of iron pyrites, and occasionally 
 minute sparks of silicious crystals in the cavities. 
 The nwuroa, a tropic-bird (Phaeton), was 
 occasionally seen flying from point to point, at 
 a vast height in the narrow sky, between the 
 opposing cliffs, in which it builds its nest. We 
 observed also the otu teatea, or white crane, 
 the paddy-bird of Java ; and the opia, which 
 resembles the swallow in shape and habits ; but 
 the tail is short and not forked ; the body is of 
 a glossy blue, the wings, tail, and head dusky- 
 brown, and the bill yellow. It often swept by 
 us, in its pursuit of flies, low along the ground, 
 or following the course of the river. Lizards of 
 various kinds, from four to five inches long, 
 were numerous in our path ; their bodies gene- 
 rally brown and speckled, with blue or green 
 tails. They are harmless and vivacious, but 
 sluuk under cover at our approach. The brown 
 libellula, or dragon-fly, abounds here. Black 
 flies, like those of England, and mosquitoes, 
 swarm every where. 
 
 We passed a remarkably large tree, called ora, 
 of that species from the bark of which the 
 natives make a valuable brown cloth ; the leaf 
 is shaped like that of the laurel. The speci- 
 men, at its root, measured nearly forty feet in 
 circumference. The upper part of the stern 
 divided itself into two lateral branches, exten- 
 sively ramified, while the bark, from the ground 
 to the head, was thickly mantled with ferns 
 and parasitical plants. The vii-apple, spondius 
 dulcis of Parkinson, in this valley, flourishes 
 amazingly. The lower part of the trunk is 
 curious, expanding into five or six flat buttresses, 
 admirably adapted to support the wide-spread- 
 ing top. We found the Tara papa, or pine- 
 apple, (Anana) growing wild, on which the 
 rats feed deliciously. T lie ape, a plant of the 
 arum species, springs up here to a great si/e. 
 
10 
 
 BASALTIC CLIFFS TRAITS OF TAHITIAN CHARACTER. 
 
 One of its broad, deep-green leaves, carried over 
 the head, is a sufficient shelter from rain or in- 
 tense heat ; arid these were so used by the 
 unlives, who, when they first saw the European 
 umbrella, naturally called it farcraauape from 
 fare a house, raau a leaf, and ape the sibove- 
 mentioned plant, the arum-leaf-house. 
 
 As we advanced up the valley, the sun shone 
 with great strength, and we found it a fatiguing 
 journey to the point at which we aimed. At 
 length we reached the object (called by the 
 natives pihaa), a singularly fine basaltic cliff, 
 with the rivulet flowing at its basis, from which 
 it rises almost perpendicularly, to the height of 
 two hundred feet, by three hundred in breadth. 
 Above, it is covered with dark earth, fragments 
 of rock, and towering trees. The whole mass 
 is basaltic ; the pillars being irregular pentagons, 
 the sides of which vary from five to eight inches 
 in width ; and all the pillars stand close to one 
 another without adhering. There are no joints 
 nor natural divisions in the shaft, from the 
 bottom to the top ; though in some arc seen 
 casual fractures, which cross the diameters at 
 different angles, evidently occasioned by exter- 
 nal injuries from falling substances, as those 
 columns which are not exposed to similar injury 
 from above are perfect. This magnificent 
 breast-work stands nearly perpendicular, with 
 u slight inclination towards the south-east. 
 Hut the most singular feature of this basaltic 
 foi ination is presented on that quarter which is 
 highest up the stream. The columns there 
 descend from the same elevation with the rest, 
 and are parallel to them, till within twenty-five 
 feet of the water, where they swerve into a 
 graceful sweep, or segment of a circle, of which 
 the diameter might be forty or fifty feet. The 
 shafts of this curved part preserve their exact 
 j u xt a- position to each other, and have been as 
 entire as the upright ones, though now they 
 appear considerably more shattered, by frag- 
 ments of rock precipitated from the top! The 
 whole hulk consists of hard compact basalt, of a 
 dark-blue colour, much resembling many of the 
 beds of trap-stone in Europe. 
 
 On the contrary bank of the river, the rocks 
 are so intricately over-grown with underuood 
 thfkt it was too difficult for us to ascertain 
 whether they were of corresponding structure ; 
 but about a quarter of a mile higher up the 
 current, the basaltic form was apparent on both 
 sides. There the clustered columns are lying 
 in almost every conceivable position with respect 
 to each other, yet all in so regular a state as to 
 imply that they have not been disturbed since 
 their first arrangement, by whatever means that 
 may have been produced. 
 
 A heavy shower of rain hastened our depar- 
 ture, after some time spent in beholding and 
 admiring this stupendous work of almighty 
 skill. On our way home, wo had an opportunity 
 of observing the simple, and ingenious process 
 1>\ which the islanders obtain fire. A man took 
 a piece of dry purau wood, twelve inches long, 
 and two thick. "With another stick of the same 
 tree, sharpened to a point, and held with both 
 his hands, at an angle of about 45, he rubbed the 
 
 former gently, as it lay on the ground, till he 
 had scratched a groove in it several inches 
 long. Then, continuing the same operation, but 
 pressing the point harder upon the lower piece, 
 and increasing the velocity of the motion, some 
 brown dust was soon formed within the groove, 
 and collected at one end. In a few seconds 
 smoke was apparent, and the dust was ignited. 
 The spark was then immediately conveyed into 
 a finger-hole opened in a handful of dry grass. 
 The man blew upon it, and, waving the tuft in the 
 air, the grass was quickly in a flame. The whole 
 experiment did not occupy more than two mi- 
 nutes. 
 
 Nov. 2. From an interesting conversation 
 with Messrs. Nott and Wilson, this evening, we 
 obtained the following information. King 
 Pomare, though his power has long heen abso- 
 lute, has never intermeddled with the spiritual 
 concerns of the missions, or of the Christian 
 churches formed in his dominions. He was 
 long ago baptized, but has never yet partaken 
 of the Lord's Supper, nor sought admission to 
 it, often saying that he is not a fit subject. In 
 fact, he seems to have a dread of this ordinance, 
 lest, by unworthily receiving it, he should incur 
 the Divine displeasure. 
 
 The Tahitians, in their heathen state, never 
 forgot a benefit or forgave an injury. In the 
 last war between the Christians and idola- 
 ters, the latter being vanquished fled to the fast- 
 nesses of the mountains. A chief of the victo- 
 rious party, learning that, among the enemy who 
 had thus scaped, there was a man who had 
 shown kindness to himself in a former \\ 
 off to find him, tracking the fugitive as well as 
 he could from hill to hill, and thicket to thick, t, 
 frequently calling him by name, to the extent 
 of his voice, imploring him to come forth, and 
 promising him safety and subsistence. At length 
 he found the poor fello i him under 
 
 his protection, brought him from the wilder- 
 ness to his own house, and there fed ami 
 him with the hospitality of a kind friend. N : 
 were instances of such gratitude rare. On the 
 other hand, their revenge was implacable, fol- 
 lowing its victim from island to island, or 
 waiting from year to year, till it could re\. I in 
 his agonies and exult over his death. Chris- 
 tianity has confirmed what Avas good, and ex- 
 tinguished what was evil, in the habits and 
 dispositions of these people. They lo\e as 
 brethren, and they can forgive, as they pr.iy to 
 be forgiven. This was signally exemplified in 
 the war above alluded to, which was conducted 
 without ferocity, and in which, for t! 
 time mercy was shown to the vanquished. 
 The Christians conquered by their valour, but 
 they triumphed by their forbearance. Neither 
 plunder, nor violence, nor massacre followed 
 the defeat of their foes; and the lattei, aston- 
 ished at this new thing in the islands, were 
 soon induced to submit to such magnanimous 
 conquerors.* 
 
 The ancient wars of this people were horribly 
 destructive when the* weapons were slings, 
 
 * The false statement* ,,f Kot/.eVnie are exposed and 
 refuted in the introduction to the present work. 
 
UNEQUAL MARRIAGES DISEASES OF THE NATIVES. 
 
 41 
 
 spears, clubs, &c. and the conflict was decided, 
 man to man, at close quarters. The greater part, 
 011 both sides, often fell ; the prisoners were 
 butchered in cold blood ; and those who fled 
 to the mountains were hunted down and slain, 
 like wild beasts. Since they have procured 
 fire-arms from European visitors, and learned 
 the use of them, the slaughter on their battle- 
 fields has not been so great in proportion as 
 formerly. The gospel of peace, however, has 
 abolished all wars in those islands which have 
 cordially received it. 
 
 Nov. 3. Several persons brought us presents 
 of fruit, this morning, among whom was a female 
 chief, whose husband is "a man of low degree." 
 Such unequal matches are frequent, but they 
 affect the condition of neither ; the woman re- 
 tains her rank and authority, but does not exalt 
 her partner to an equality with herself in these 
 respects. The children of such marriages, 
 under the reign of idolatry, were always de- 
 stroyed at their birth, as being degraded by the 
 inferiority of their father. Now all children 
 are not only spared, but tenderly nourished and 
 trail ifd, by both parents, who are affectionately 
 fond of them. Yesterday we saw at the church- 
 meeting a woman, who is now regarded as a 
 pious character, who, " in her times of igno- 
 rance," had killed eight of her offspring with 
 her own hands. What ought to be our detesta- 
 tion of a system which thus outraged Nature in 
 her dearest charities ! What our admiration of 
 that religion which proposes to reclaim the 
 beinir-; whom that system had perverted and 
 which lias reclaimed them, in hundreds, yea, 
 thousands, of instances! 
 
 Nov. 4. Beinir sacrament-day, we partook, 
 for the first time, of this ordinance, with our 
 brethren and sisters from among the Gentiles. 
 We had the privilege of carrying the elements 
 to the communicants, and were deeply affected 
 to observe the becoming solemnity with which 
 they wen? received, in some cases, with tears, 
 and with trembling. From the devotion which 
 was manifested, and the great care taken by their 
 pastors in receiving candidates to the Lord's 
 table, there was good cause to hope that those 
 who here commemorated the dying love of their 
 Redeemer were worthy, however little they 
 might seem in their own eyes. There were 
 sixt \-five natives, men and Avomen, present. 
 All v\ho have been baptized are candidates for 
 this ordinance ; but none are admitted till the 
 Missionaries are fully satisfied of the sincerity 
 of their professions, and the reality of their re- 
 ligion, by the consistency of their conduct and 
 conversation. Among the communicants, this 
 day, was a man who had been a priest and a 
 prophet of Oro, the god of war and not the 
 Mars only, but the Moloch of Polynesia so 
 cruel and abominable were the rites with which 
 that representative of Satan was worshipped. 
 This votary, however, once so honou'red and 
 enriched by his office, when h^ felt the gospel 
 as the power of God, renounced 1 ^is distinctions, 
 forsook the craft whereby he gofv^iis wealth, 
 and became, so far as man can judge^ sincere 
 and humble disciple of the Lord Jesus. ^ 
 
 In the afternoon we were present at the cate- 
 chetical instruction of the children, by Upuparu, 
 a chief who lives in this vicinity. There were a 
 hundred and four of these little ones assembled 
 round the patriarchal teacher ; among these we 
 observed but one who had any personal defect ; 
 the rest were healthy and cheerful, sound in 
 mind and limb. The sight was beautiful, but 
 ita moral aspect was yet more so to the eye of 
 faith, at once seeing and foreseeing the effects 
 of Christianity thus supplanting paganism on a 
 soil, which the latter had cursed with thorns and 
 briars, through unrecorded ages past. 
 
 In the evening we distributed medicines for 
 the use of men, women and children, who came 
 to us, afflicted with a complaint (very prevalent 
 just now) which occasions great difficulty of 
 breathing, but which soon gives way to such 
 simple remedies as we may venture to recom- 
 mend. Mr. Nott says that he remembers several 
 occasions when epidemic disorders have visited 
 these remote regions, brought by strangers from 
 the other side of the globe. A grievous ulcer, 
 at one time, was thus introduced, which spared 
 neither chiefs nor people nor the missionaries 
 themselves ; and a canoe coming hither from the 
 Leeward Islands, while this plague raged, took 
 back the infection to their shores. It does not 
 appear that the children here are subject to 
 such infectious disorders as prevail in Europe ; 
 the small-pox, measles, hooping-cough, croup, 
 &c. are unknown. Scrofulous complaints are 
 common, and make shocking ravages. There 
 are a few lepers; we have seen one in attend- 
 ance on the king ; his skin is white, covered 
 with a scaly scurf, and exceedingly unsightly ; 
 his hair and eye-brows are of a flaxen colour, 
 and his eyes very tender. The disease is not 
 considered contagious. Consumptive cases oc- 
 cur, and cut oft' many of the young. 
 
 Nov. 10. The corpse of a child was interred 
 this morning, according to the Christian rites 
 now observed here. The coffin, shaped as in 
 England, was neatly covered with white native 
 cloth, bound about with cinet cordage, made 
 from the fibrous husk of the cocoa-nut. While 
 borne on the road, a mat, for a pall, was thrown 
 over it, but when set down at the grave-side 
 this was removed and spread on the griyss. 
 The Missionary (Mr. Wilson) having read a 
 chapter from the New Testament, prayed and 
 delivered a brief discourse. The coffin was 
 then let down into the ground by slips of purau 
 bark which served for cords, and the mat folded 
 up, being spread upon it, the earth was thrown 
 in and the grave closed. What seemed to us 
 remarkable was, that the father himself assisted 
 in depositing the remains of his ofl'spring in the 
 dust, and was the first to begin filling up the 
 opening by pushing the earth into it. This, 
 however, he did with afl'eeting solemnity, though 
 not a tear rose in his eye. The mother was not 
 present. 
 
 We have learnt that there is no class of 
 names here appropriated exclusively to either 
 sex. Parents give their children such as they 
 please, which are often chosen from local or in- 
 cidental circumstances, and arc sometimes ab- 
 
PROPER NAMES AMERICAN SHIP IN MATAVAI BAY. 
 
 surd enough. Thus there is a boy, in this neigh- 
 bourhood, -who is called Vahineino, which means 
 a bad woman ; also a girl, Taata-maitai, a good 
 man. Children do not take the names of their 
 parents, and each person has but one at a time ; 
 this, however, he may change at will, and go by 
 ten or more in the course of his life ; but for- 
 merly no one durst appropriate that of the sove- 
 reign, which would have been death; and so 
 sacred was this prohibition that if there were a 
 slight resemblance only between a subject's 
 name and the king's, the former must be aban- 
 doned. Hence we have never met with either 
 person or thing called by any sound at all like 
 I t omare. As this proscription extended to the 
 whole family of the Arii, or blood royal, and also 
 to the principal chiefs, the names of their vassals 
 and inferiors, nay, those even of plants and 
 animals (to avoid desecration), were wont to 
 be changed when any of the privileged order 
 received at birth, or afterwards adopted, similar 
 ones. In their heathen state, the designations 
 which many persons bore were such as char- 
 acterised the national impurity of manners and 
 grossness of mind. Christianity has, in this re- 
 spect, wrought a happy reformation ; the Mi-- 
 sionaries, of course, refusing to acknowledge 
 any convert or baptize any child by an im- 
 proper name. 
 
 Nov. 6. This evening, after the Missionary 
 prayer-meeting, many persons followed us to 
 our home : when the) had sat awhile they in- 
 formed us that they were come to see some fire- 
 works, which they had heard we could show 
 them. At first we were quite at a loss to guess 
 what could have given rise to such a report, till 
 recollecting, that yesterday we had tried some 
 phosphoric matches which we had brought with 
 us, we concluded that these must be the fire- 
 works of which they had been told. Accord- 
 ingly we gratified the simple people exceedingly, 
 when we exhibited the process of lighting a 
 few such matches by introducing them into a 
 phial containing the chemical preparation for 
 that purpose. Upuparu, the aforementioned 
 chief, coming in, stood astonished,, as at the 
 performance of a miracle, when he witnessed 
 this well-known experiment. Being invited to 
 dip a match himself, he held the apparatus at 
 arm's length, and tremblingly complied. He 
 succeeded, and was delighted with the result ; 
 but his success could not embolden an ancient 
 warrior, one who had fought many a battle, and 
 faced the greatest dangers in the field, to touch 
 the phial or even to come near it ; he was panic 
 struck at the mysterious spectacle of light coming 
 out of darkness, though the simple method 
 of producing fire by the friction of two pieces of 
 wood among his own countrymen is, in reality, 
 much more curious and surprising to the eye of 
 an intelligent stranger. 
 
 Nov. 7. We went to the chapel this morning 
 to see the schools. That for adults commenced 
 at six o'clock with singing and prayer. There 
 were between two and three hundred present, 
 whose names were called over, each answering 
 to their own. A chief superintended the les- 
 sons ; the people read one to another, some in 
 
 elementary books, others in the Scriptures ; 
 many with great fluency. At the end of an 
 hour they went away, when the children came 
 in with their teachers. This attendance also 
 lasted no more than an hour. The portions of 
 time devoted to instruction are necessarily short, 
 but adapted to the circumstances of the people, 
 who, having been unaccustomed either to 
 close mental application or personal confine- 
 ment, would be wearied by longer r\ 
 But these brief seasons often recurring, and 
 the minds of the learners both old and young 
 being quick of apprehension, and their me- 
 mories tenacious, they make surprising pro- 
 gress. 
 
 Intelligence has just been received from 
 Eimeo, that the king is worse indeed, in immi- 
 nent danger. Should he die at this time it is 
 apprehended that there may be a serious struggle 
 among the chiefs of this island for the ascendancy; 
 jealous symptoms occasionally appearing. 
 
 Nov. 8. We were presented with a bunch of 
 bananas of extraordinary si/.e, weigh 1 , 
 number of fruits; of the latter th< 
 hundred and fourteen, most of them full-grown. 
 It was as much as the strength of one of us 
 could accomplish to lift this single cluster from 
 the ground. 
 
 Nov. 10. Early in the afternoon a ship was 
 descried in the offing, and by six o'clock she 
 cast anchor in Matavai ba\. She proved to be 
 the General Gates, Captain Ri.ggs, an An 
 in the seal-fishery, three years from home, but 
 unsuccessful, having taken no more thai 
 thousand seals, when seventy thousand were 
 wanted to complete her cargo. The captain had 
 touched a few days ago at Raiva\ai, 
 Island, where, having detected a native in the 
 act of stealing a musket from his boat, he at- 
 tempted to recover it, but received a blow 
 from a sabre (which the savage had concealed) 
 that had nearly cost him his life, having 
 cut through his hat. This -island acknow- 
 ledges the sovereignty of Pomare, w; 
 visited it some time ago and left two Tahi- 
 tians there to teach the inhabitants the truths 
 of the gospel. In the affair just mentioned, the 
 captain was about to take veimvanre upon the 
 nathes for the affront which he i 
 but the Tahitian Missionaries interposed and 
 made peace. Captain Riggs speaks well of the 
 people generally, who have abjuied idolatry 
 and embraced the doctrines of Christ. In- 
 stances have not unfrequently occurred in 
 which Missionaries at Tahiti have prevented 
 the commanders of foreign ships from com- 
 mitting or sustaining injuries. Once in war 
 time, a party under some provocation had de- 
 clared that they would seize the firs; 
 which should arrive on the coast. Mr. Nott, 
 then residing with the king, who was a fugitive 
 from his own island in Eimeo, heard of thi> and 
 determined, if possible, to prevent it. He there- 
 fore wrote a letter to warn any captain who 
 might arrive of the desperate design. I? 
 matter of no small difficulty to find a trust- 
 worthy messenger who would watch the op- 
 portunity and deliver the caution in time to ob- 
 
A PLOT PREVENTED PROVIDENTIAL PRESERVATION AT SEA. 
 
 Ill 
 
 viate the clanger. By the advice of Pomare, a 
 native of the Pomotu Islands was selected for this 
 service. The letter Avas given into his charge, 
 and he was directed to go and reside among 
 others of his countrymen at Matavai. It is 
 said that, notwithstanding he acted with the 
 utmost discretion, he was suspected by the 
 Tahitians ; however, he proved true to his em- 
 ployers, and by good management contrived to 
 secrete the letter till the opportunity of using 
 it came. At length His Majesty's ship, the 
 Hibernia, Captain Campbell, appeared, and 
 anchored in the Bay of Matavai, for it was not 
 in the man's power to get on board before she 
 came in. The natives immediately put out in 
 their canoes, and, being welcomed by the crew, 
 soon crowded the deck. They were headed 
 by the chief of Pare, who was to conduct the 
 execution of the plot. To throw the captain oft' 
 his guard this chief presented him with a large 
 roll of native cloth, and behaved with the 
 greatest semblance of good will. Two or three 
 days were necessary to complete the prepara- 
 tions for the capture. When the crisis arrived, 
 the chief of Pare gave the signal of attack, but 
 the chiefs of Matavai who were leagued with 
 him, perceiving that there were more of his 
 people than of -theirs on board at the time, and 
 fearing that the^c would get the greatest share 
 of the plunder, tacitly forbore to act. This pro- 
 videntially caused tin- delay of another day. 
 Karly the next morning, the Pomotu man, 
 finding part of an old canoe on the beach, with 
 perilous resolution hazarded his life in it, and 
 ile to keep it afloat till lie was received 
 on board of the British ship. Proceeding in- 
 stantly to the cabin where the captain lay 
 asleep, he awoke him and presented the letter. 
 A favourable breeze was blowing, and the ves- 
 sel Avas soon under weigh, and out of reach of 
 danger, either from the natives already on 
 board (including the chief of Pare), or the 
 multitude in canoes that were putting off 
 from the shore to join them and carry the 
 design into effect. Enraged by this unex- 
 pected failure the occasion of which they 
 instantly perceived the Tahitians on board 
 rushed towards the cabin to murder the man 
 who had given the strangers the hint to es- 
 cape. The captain, however, protected him 
 with a loaded pistol, which kept the assailants 
 at bay, and they were presently all driven mer 
 board, and picked up by their companions, in 
 canoes, as they swam for their lives towards the 
 harbour. ( 'aptain Campbell immediately sailed 
 for Kimeo, where he waited on Mr. Nott, and 
 gratefully acknowledged his very considerate 
 kindness, to which the preservation of the ship 
 and crew appeared to be owing. The same 
 captain had an armed schooner on her way to 
 Tahiti, the arrival of which was expected in a 
 few weeks. He therefore left a boat's crew at 
 Eimeo, with directions to keep a good look out 
 to prevent that vessel from proceeding to Tahiti. 
 The men failed in this duty, from neglect or 
 accident ; the schooner reached its appointed 
 destination, and was immediately boarded, 
 stormed, and plundered by the savages. One 
 
 man was killed in the conflict ; the rest of the 
 crew, though overpowered by numbers and 
 taken prisoners, eventually made their escape 
 to Eimeo, and the schooner was afterwards 
 recovered. 
 
 Nov. 12. We have agreed with Captain 
 Riggs, of the General Gates, to convey us to 
 the Leeward Islands, which he intends to visit, 
 and whither, but for this favourable opportu- 
 nity, we had not expected to be able to go before 
 next spring. 
 
 In the afternoon, wishing to visit Captain 
 Riggs, to agree upon the terms of our passage, 
 we went, accompanied by Mr. Wilson, down to 
 the beach to look for a conveyance. The ship's 
 boat had not come on shore, and we saw no 
 canoes at hand, though there were many out of 
 call round the vessel. At last we found a small 
 canoe lying under the shade of some 'paiidaiius 
 palm-trees, and not far from the water's edge ; 
 but there were no able-bodied natives near the 
 spot to paddle us, all the men being gone to the 
 mountains to procure food, or to the ship for 
 traffic and curiosity. Several mothers with 
 their children having followed us, we asked a 
 woman and a boy if they could row us to the 
 ship. They readily answered, " Yes, surely 
 we could ;" " but," said the female, " no wo- 
 man is now permitted to go out to any ship that 
 comes here, as they used to do." The Mis- 
 sionary, however, under the peculiar urgency 
 of our circumstances, granted her a dispensation 
 in this case. Thereupon we dragged the canoe 
 to the water, and shipped ourselves into it with 
 no little difficulty, on account of the narrowness 
 of the vessel, and its extreme liability, from 
 lightness, to be upset by the smallest derange- 
 ment within. The woman and boy took their 
 stations fore and aft ; Mr. Tyerman sat near 
 the head, next to the boy ; while Mr. Bennet 
 and Mr. Wilson occupied the space between 
 them and the woman at the stern. We got 
 pretty well over the surf, but as we proceeded 
 from the shore, and found the swell of the sea 
 regularly increasing, while the upper edge of 
 our little bark was nearly even with the water, 
 we began to feel the peril of our situation, and 
 heartily repented having quitted the linn land 
 in such a cockle-shell. But, as Mr. Wilson 
 thought there would be quite as much danger 
 in attempting to return now, as in going forward, 
 we pushed away, and Avere soon alongside of the 
 General Gates ; when, as might have been ex- 
 pected, we perceived the agitation of the water 
 to be greatly heightened by the rocking of the 
 ship. Our canoe, however, was paddled up to 
 the gangway ; whereupon, Mr. Tyerman, being 
 nearest to the ladder, stood up and caught hold 
 of the ropes; but, as the first step was rather 
 high, he inadvertently, though very naturally, 
 set his foot on the edge of our tiny vessel, which, 
 before a word could be uttered to warn him of 
 his imprudence, was fairly overset and floating 
 bottom uppermost. Here Mr. Bennet must 
 speak for himself " Anticipating this catas- 
 trophe when I saw Mr. Tyerman get up, and 
 not being able to swim, I seized hold of the side 
 of the canoe, and kept hold when it was capsized ; 
 
14 
 
 THE LAST BATTLE OF THE LAST NATIVE AVAIL 
 
 but having only the round bottom to rest my 
 arm upon (canoes being without keels,) I felt 
 I should not be able to maintain my buoyancy 
 long ; I recollected also that many sharks are 
 usually in the neighbourhood of ships offshore. 
 In this extremity I cried out loudly for help, 
 and soon saw many of the natives peeping care- 
 lessly over the sides of the vessel, and saying 
 one to another, ' Te papaa i roto te miti ! te 
 papaa i roto te miti!' ' The foreigners are in 
 the water ! the foreigners are in the water ! ' 
 But they moved not to my assistance ; in fact, 
 being themselves almost amphibious, and such 
 accidents often occurring to them, they thought 
 we were sporting among the waves ; it never 
 came into their heads that we could not swim ! 
 Mr. Tyerman, however, on looking back, and 
 perceiving our plight, hastened to obtain a rope, 
 which he and another person threw overboard, 
 when one end falling across the canoe, within 
 my reach, I eagerly grasped it, first with one 
 hand, then Avith the other ; but I had no sooner 
 let go the canoe, expecting to be hoisted up into 
 the ship, than down I sank close under its side. 
 My instant thoughts were these: they have 
 dropped the rope without keeping hold of the 
 other end ; I shall now certainly be drawn 
 under the vessel; and thus I enter eternity: 
 It is the will of God ; and I commit in 
 his mercy, in whose presence I must appear in 
 a few moments! AVhile these presentiments 
 were rushing through my mind, suddenly I felt 
 the rope tighten within my hands, for I con- 
 tinued to clasp it instinctively, though my head 
 hud already become confused, from the quantity 
 <>f \\:iter which I had swallowed, and the horror 
 of my natural feelings though perfectly willing 
 then and there to die, if such were the ap- 
 pointment! of Providence. But a gracious 
 Power was present t< preserve me, and happily 
 1 was hauled on hoard, when I speedily re- 
 co\ered, to the delightful enjoyment and ex- 
 pression of gratitude and praise for tin 
 deliverance. Mr. AVilson, who held by the 
 alter-part of the canoe, was lesein-d ! 
 natives, who sprang from the ship into the sea 
 as soon as they Avere aware of his actual danger. 
 As for the woman and the, hoy, who had paddled 
 us from shore, they swam about quite at their 
 ease, till they could conveniently climb on board 
 of the ship." 
 
 This evening, after our return to land, Mr. 
 Noit related to us sex eral particulars concerning 
 the last battle of the last war and may it ever 
 he the. last! in this island; when Ponnrc 
 ha\ ing professed himself a Christian, was op- 
 posed by a powerful idolatrous party, and over- 
 came them, not less by his clemency after the 
 conflict than by the prowess of himself and 
 his followers in it It was on the twelfth of 
 November, 1*1 .">, that this decisive action Avas 
 fought, and it was the Sabbath. Pomare had 
 previously landed from Kimeo, with a consi- 
 derable number of his faithful adherents, most 
 of whom, like himself, had renounced the wor- 
 ship of idols ; and with the force which he then 
 mustered, (about eight hundred, including those 
 who had joined him in Tahiti,) he hoped to be 
 
 able to quell the insurrection and recover the 
 sovereignty of this Wand. Mr. Nott, who had 
 resided with him during :Jiis temporary exile, 
 forewarned the king to be on his guard during 
 the Sabbath, while the army rested for the pur- 
 poses of devotion, since it was probable that the 
 enemy would seize that opportunity to attack 
 him during the time of divine worship. Ac- 
 cordingly he commanded his people (as m my 
 as had the opportunity) to assemble armed, and 
 to be prepared at any moment against surprise, 
 but on no account to move except in obedienc-> 
 to his signals. Having planted their muskets 
 on the outside of the building in which they 
 were convened, at the hour of prayer, they 
 entered upon the solemn service, but were soon 
 interrupted by the cry, " it is war! it is Avar!" 
 Pomare, who remained without, on a spot A\ here 
 he had an ample vieAV of the neighbourhood, 
 having discovered a considerable body of the 
 enemy, hastening in martial array towards the 
 place where he and his people Avere met. He. 
 however, maintained his presence of mind, and 
 ordered that the singing should proceed, praver 
 should be made, and the whole duty < ; 
 bouse be performed, unless actirtl hostilities 
 were commenced before it could be concluded. 
 This was done, when, under the di 
 laid upon them, they ros,. from A\m-ship, and 
 went forth to battle, resolved, in the spirit of the 
 exhortation of Joab to Israel, to " be < : 
 courage, and play the men for their people, ;md 
 for the (cities) of their (iod;" content aK<> (> 
 add, "the Lord do that which seemeth him 
 good!" Thus they marched in several hands 
 one following another, to meet tin- foe. AVhen 
 the first troop had advanced some di-; 
 signal was given, A\ hereupon they halted, and 
 falling down on their knees, implored divine 
 protection, and success ngain^t the idolaters. 
 They then went forward, and the second division 
 at the same place, boAved themselves on the 
 ground in like manner, supplicating help from 
 above; division after division followed t 
 ample, and thus, not Avith carnal Aveapons only, 
 but with the most effectual missile from the 
 armoury of God with " all prayer," the;. 
 they fought, and they discomfited the 
 One of the chief prophets of Oro, the god of 
 Avar, animated the idolaters, promising them 
 virtory, the spoil of their antagonists, and the 
 sole dominion of the island. The struggle Avas 
 long and fierce, and Avavering in it 
 the desultory conflicts of undisciplined comba- 
 tants must be. AVhile the foremost Avarriors of 
 the king's army Avere thus engaged with open 
 breast, and arm to arm, against their desperate 
 assailants, a corps of chosen men, defiling 
 through a wood that flanked the field, emerged 
 from ihence in the critical juncture, and fell 
 with irresistible impetuosity upon the rear of 
 the latter, levelling and routing all before them. 
 The chief commander of the idolaters Avas slain, 
 and the intelligence of his death being rapidly 
 communicated through the ranks of his followers, 
 already broken, a panic seized them, and they 
 lied in utter confusion to the mountains. 
 
 The prophet of Oro, among the most dis- 
 
REBEL PRIESTS OF ORA SPARED MAUBUAA, OR THE SWINE-OWNER. 45 
 
 heartened and terrified, sought refuge with the 
 rest in the recesses of the interior. He has 
 since declared that the power of Oro then for- 
 sook him the evil spirit went out of him, and 
 never afterwards returned. Pomare's conquer- 
 ing bands were eager to pursue the fugitives 
 and complete the victory, though they disavowed 
 the purpose of destroying them. " The king, 
 however, interfered, and said, in a style of ori- 
 ental magnificence, " the mountains are mine : 
 follow not the vanquished thither ! The motus 
 (the low coral islets where the enemy had left 
 thi'ir wives and children) are mine : let them 
 alone there also. Proceed only along the open 
 wavs. Take no lives: take nothing but the 
 spoils which you find in the field or on the roads." 
 The idolatrous prisoners were so affected by the 
 king's lenity, and the forbearance of the victors 
 generally having expected, as a matter of 
 course, to be barbarously murdered in cold blood 
 that many of them immediately offered to 
 join r<>m:m-'s army. These were magnani- 
 mously pardoned, and received into his service ; 
 so tint, on that very day, idolaters who had 
 fought for Oro and his priests united in render- 
 ing thank-, to the only true God for the victory 
 which tin- Christians had obtained. Others of 
 tin- dispersed adversaries, when they s:iw and 
 heard how differently the king acted on this 
 great occasion from the inhuman usages of their 
 country, gave themselves up at discretion, 
 coming with their weapons in their hands, and 
 words of peace on their lips. They were all 
 made welcome. Thus elided that glorious day 
 for Tahiti glorious, not for Tahiti only, but for 
 all the islands in the Pacific, whither the gospel 
 has subsequently been carried from that /ion 
 in the West.* 
 
 On the evening of the battle the aforemen- 
 tioned prophet of Oro stole down from his re- 
 treat to the beach, with one attendant only. 
 There they sei/ed a small canoe and put oil' to 
 sea ; but the courage of the attendant failing 
 he flung himself into the water, at the reef, and 
 swam on shore. The prophet, therefore, pur- 
 sued his voyage alone, through the darkness of 
 the night, and, by almost incredible exertions, 
 reached F.imeo in safety. On landing he went 
 and delivered himself up to the queen, whom 
 1'omare had left behind under the care of Mr. 
 Nott. The Missionary was consulted as to 
 what ought to be done with this strange and 
 terrible being, who was known to be at once 
 one of the most implacable of the king's ene- 
 mies, and the most malignant of the opposers 
 of Christianity. A hesitating Avord from Mr. 
 Nott might have caused him to be massacred, 
 without mercy, on the spot. " Let him live ; 
 do him no harm ; give him food," said the 
 Christian teacher; and his advice was obeyed. 
 The humbled and astonished captive was over- 
 come by such unexampled kindness ; and, being 
 allowed his liberty, he began to attend the school 
 for adults ; soon afterwards he made open profes- 
 sion of the faith of the gospel, and has thencefor- 
 ward conducted himself as a sincere convert. 
 
 See the introduction to this work for further illuhtra- 
 tiou oftlie facts here recorded. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Visit to Bunaauia Manbuaa, or the Swine-ownerMan 
 punished for Swearing Return to Matavai Coral- 
 groves King of Borabora's Solicitude to have a Mis- 
 sionaryEagerness of the People to obtain Books- 
 Anecdote of Pomare Visit of Captain Walker Simple 
 Substitute for Bellows Interview with Pomare Sail 
 to Eimeo Examination of Candidates for Church- 
 fellowship Public Fast and Prayers for the King- 
 Anecdote of llaiatcan A flection towards a Missionary 
 Shaving Process Singular Species of Crab Native 
 Generosity Evils resulting from the use of Stills 
 Taro- Plantation The Hoop-Snake A Court of Justice 
 First Burning of Idols. 
 
 Nov. 15. WE sailed coastwise this afternoon? 
 to Bunaauia, to visit the Missionary station 
 where Messrs. Darling and Bourne labour. 
 By the way we touched, in our slight boat, 
 upon many sunken rocks, which lie thick be- 
 tween the reef and the shore ; but in every in- 
 stance we escaped without injury. 
 
 We have been gratified with a sight, of the 
 printing-office, from which, besides portions of 
 the Scriptures, a translation of Dr. Watt's 
 Catechisms, and a complete edition of Tahitian 
 Hymns, have recently been issued. We after- 
 wards proceeded to the chapel : it occupies a 
 piece of ground formerly desecrated by a vast 
 marae, of which there is yet a relic undestroyed 
 a memorial reminding beholders of what hath 
 passed away, and from what thraldom the chil- 
 dren have been delivered, whose fathers Satan 
 had bound, it may be through a scries of ages, 
 since these islands were first colonised by sin- 
 ners, who, descended from Adam, " have gone 
 in the way of Cain." The country hereabout 
 is well cultivated, and proportionately fruitful. 
 
 A few mornings ago a woman, with an in- 
 fant in her arms, called 011 the Missionaries 
 here to beg a little milk. Being asked whose 
 child it was that she carried, she answered, 
 " mine." To a second question, as to its age, 
 she said, ' It was born last night, when the 
 moon Avas yonder," pointing to that part of the 
 heavens from which the beautiful planet had 
 lighted her babe into the world. The pains of 
 parturition are comparatively mild in this genial 
 clime, and under the favourable circumstances 
 which freedom from artificial restraint in cloth- 
 ing, and bodily exercise, naturally produce. 
 
 Nov. 17. Several chiefs of this district have 
 waited upon us with presents of fruit and hogs. 
 Among these was one named Maubuaa, or pig- 
 owner. His office under the idolatrous system 
 was to provide human sacrifices when the king 
 required such from this neighbourhood. With 
 a stone, or other weapon, he used to spring 
 upon his selected victims, unawares, and, Avhcii 
 slaughtered, packed the bodies in cocoa-leaf 
 baskets, and delivered them to be hung up, ac- 
 cording to custom, on sacred trees, round the 
 maraes of Oro. This man has slain many for 
 such horrid offerings. He is now a member 
 of a Christian church, and, to all appearance, 
 " a new creature." 
 
 Nov. 18. Being the Sabbath, public worship 
 was devoutly attended by congregations of 
 seven to eight hundred persons. An ignorant 
 old man, who had made no decided profession 
 of religion, was excluded from divine service, 
 
-1C, 
 
 EAGERNESS TO OBTAIN BOOKS ANECDOTE OF POMARE. 
 
 and required to stand on the outside of the 
 chapel during its performance. He had been 
 guilty of profane swearing, which, in the eyes 
 of these people, is a heinous offence. In a fit 
 of passion he had threatened one who had 
 provoked him, in very peculiar phraseology, 
 namely, " that he would kill, and deliver him 
 to be eateu by his God." This menace, in 
 their idolatrous state, was regarded as the most 
 dreadful that could be uttered ; and the culprit, 
 on the present occasion, was punished by the 
 authority of the chiefs, who, though they mingle 
 not only in the sanctuary but in general with 
 the people, as their equals (all being under the 
 government of the laws), yet when they please 
 to command are still obeyed with implicit de- 
 ference. 
 
 Nov. 19. In traversing the bay of Matavai 
 we found a considerable swell breaking upon 
 the beach, at the foot of One-Tree Hill, from a 
 cavern whence the foam came rolling and flash- 
 iiiLT with furious precipitation. On reaching 
 Mr. Nott's house we found there the King of 
 Borabora, whose name is Mai. He had brought 
 a letter from Mr. Orsmond, the Missionary on 
 that station, expressing great joy at our arrival 
 here, and affectionately inviting us t<> ^isit that 
 island. On hearing that Mr. Jones had come 
 out with us as a Missionary, the people of 
 Borabora had held a public meeting, and re- 
 sohcd to request Mr. Jones to settle with them. 
 S<> earnest were they to obtain their object that 
 the king himself had been deputed as their am- 
 bassador, and had come a hundred and thirty 
 miles hither in an open boat. By the way he hud 
 hem driven from island to island by contrary 
 winds, and at length reached Tahiti with his 
 lift- in his hand, preserved to him by a merciful 
 Providence. 
 
 Before we left Bunaauia, this morning, we 
 had an opportunity of witnessing how eager 
 the natives are to obtain such books as are, 
 from time to time, printed here. Mr. Bourne 
 had jusjt completed a compendious spelling- 
 book,* with a translation of Dr. Watts's small 
 catechism. This book they call the B A Ba. 
 It having been announced for publication to- 
 day, before six o'clock in tin- morning about a 
 hundred persons crowded the house, anxious to 
 secure the precious volume ; and, being fearful 
 that there might not be copies to supply all, 
 each urged his claim to priority of purchase. 
 Tin- price was a bamboo of cocoa-nut oil. 
 " See," cried one, " how large a bamboo mine 
 is ! let me have a book first." " But mine is 
 much larger than his," exclaimed another; " let 
 me have one before him." A poor man, lest 
 he should be too late, had applied on Saturday 
 night, but could not get his Baba then. He, 
 ho\\e\er, refused to take back his bamboo of 
 oil, and lashed it to one of the posts of the 
 house, to hang there in readiness against the 
 Monday. All, at length, were gratified. 
 
 Nov.* 20. We had invited Mai to breakfast 
 with us at eight o'clock. He arrived before 
 se\en, having previously attended the adult- 
 school in the chapel. He brought in his hand 
 a copy of the three Gospels which have been 
 
 printed in the Tahitian language. The word 
 of God is made the travelling companion of 
 these people, who go not from home a day 
 without it. The king appeared to prize his 
 treasure exceedingly. At breakfast he sat at 
 table with us, and used his knife and fork with 
 tolerable address, after the European fashion. 
 He ate heartily, but not immoderately. The 
 Tahitians often take a large quantity of food at 
 once, but then they have but one principal 
 daily meal, in the forenoon, and that consists 
 chiefly of vegetable provision. Pomare once 
 dining on board a ship, the captain asked him 
 what part of the fowl he would please to have. 
 " All of it," replied the king, to the astonish- 
 ment and amusement of the foreigners, who 
 soon, however, perceived the purpose for which 
 his majesty chose " the lion's share ;" he had 
 several attendants, to each of whom he sent a 
 part. 
 
 Nov. 22. Mr. Davies, the Missionary at 
 Papara, arrived here with intelligence that tin- 
 king, with his chiefs, had landed at Atehura, 
 from Eimeo, last evening. He gives an encou- 
 raging account of the progress of the gospel on 
 his station. In the afternoon a brig, direct 
 from Port Jackson, anc hon i lJa\. 
 
 It proved to be the Dragon, Captain Walker, 
 who brought a letter for the Missionaries here, 
 from the Rev. Mr. Marsden, informin_- 
 that in a late trial between a Mr. E. and him- 
 self, as the friend of King Pomare, damages to 
 the amount of 1200 had been given in 
 of the latter. Captain Walker said he had 
 lately been in Bengal, and that at a place where 
 he had given an account, in a public assembly. 
 of the wonderful changes which tl. 
 Christ had effected in these inlands, a \oung 
 man, a Brahmin, stepped forth, and, in a long 
 and energetic address, declared his astonish- 
 ment and delight at hearing such go 
 concluded by saying that thenceforth he him- 
 self would abandon idolatry, and embrace the 
 faith which had wrought such mam-U ' 
 
 As we returned home from Mr. 
 Wilson's, where we had dined, we observed on 
 an open, airy plot of ground, near the sea, a 
 Tahitian apparatus to perform the work of a 
 pair of bellows, in blowing a fire to heat iron. 
 This contrivance was under a fara-tree, or 11:111- 
 danus palm. In order to concentrate the wind 
 to a point, and bring the blast upon the fiame, 
 several mats, made of cocoa-leaves, were placed 
 so as to fonn a sort of funnel, behind which the 
 fire was kindled. Some of these mat- 
 fixed upon their edges, forming an acute angle, 
 at which two others were placed on their ends, 
 about a foot from the ground. Thus all the 
 wind falling within this opening was made to 
 pass through the aperture at its contracted end, 
 and thereby brought to bear upon the fire. 
 Though there was only a gentle breeze abroad, 
 yet the blast here was sufficient to produce the 
 intensity of heat required. 
 
 Nov. 'Jt'>. Accompanied by Messrs. Xott 
 and Crook we sailed to Bunaauia, in Captain 
 Walker's boat, on a visit to Pomare. In ap- 
 proaching the royal presence we had to j 
 
SAIL TO EIMEO SINGULAR SPECIES OF CRAB. 
 
 47 
 
 a long line of soldiers, who had been stationed 
 in advance to receive us. Several of them 
 carried bells in their hands, which they tinkled 
 from the time when we came in sight till we 
 had passed them. These body-guards stood 
 with their muskets shouldered, but did not fire 
 them. We found the king lying upon a couch, 
 covered with a white counterpane, and his head 
 considerably raised by pillows. He received us 
 very graciously, and we, in return, wished him 
 " every good," according to the most approved 
 form of salutation used here. He looked 
 better, we thought, than when we last saw him 
 in Eimeo ; but yet his person was much swollen, 
 and, 'on feeling his pulse, the arm remained 
 pitted where the pressure had been. The 
 queen, with her son upon her knee, sat near 
 the king, and a number of chiefs, both men 
 and women, were in attendance, all sitting 
 cross-legged on the floor, at the extremity of 
 the shed in which this audience was given. A 
 table was placed near Pomare, on which were 
 spread various fruits and wines, of which we 
 were invited to partake. 
 
 The king being too unwell to converse much, 
 after sitting a little while and talking on sub- 
 jecN i-imiu'cted with our visit to his dominions, 
 we took our leave. 
 
 Nov. 29. In the forenoon we embarked on 
 board of the General Gates, and sailed for 
 Eimeo, where we landed, in the course of five 
 hours, in Taloo harbour. This is one of the 
 most secure, capacious, and beautiful ports in 
 the world : five hundred vessels might ride here 
 in perfect safety, while wood and water might 
 be obtained within a few yards of the anchor- 
 age. In the evening we hud an opportunity of 
 witnessing with what circumspexioii the Mis- 
 sionaries admit natives to religious privileges, 
 by strict and scriptural examination concerning 
 the faith that is in them. 
 
 We find that the chiefs of Tahiti and Eimeo 
 have sent messengers round the islands, to re- 
 quest that to-morrow may be observed as a day 
 of fasting and prayer for the restoration of the 
 king's health ; but, if it should be otherwise 
 ordained, then directing supplication to be made 
 that it would please God to prepare his soul for 
 the kingdom of heaven. Accordingly, we found 
 all the people here busily setting their house- 
 hold affairs in order, that the day might be 
 kept holy as a Sabbath ; it having been also de- 
 termined that, till after sunset, the inhabitants 
 should abstain from food of all kinds. 
 
 Nov. 30. Though fast-days had been partially 
 held by those who were Christians here, on oc- 
 casion of actual or apprehended war, yet this 
 was the first national fast that had ever been 
 observed in the islands since the gospel was 
 planted in them. It was, therefore, solemnised 
 with deep and peculiar feelings of awe and 
 devotion. 
 
 Dec. 1. The following circumstance deserves 
 honourable record : Mr. Orsmond says, " Once, 
 a I liaiatca, on my arrival, the king, the chiefs, 
 and great numbers of the people, ran into the 
 water, laid hold of my little boat, and carried 
 it, including myself and all my cargo, upon 
 
 their shoulders, about a furlong inland, into 
 the royal yard, with masts, sails, and rigging 
 all displayed ; the bearers and the accompany- 
 ing multitude shouting as they went, ' God 
 bless our teacher, Otomoni !' (Orsmond, as 
 softened down in the delicate Pacific tongue.") 
 A circumstance nearly similar occurred to the 
 same Missionary at Borabora. 
 
 On our walk, in the afternoon, we were 
 amused by observing the process of shaving 
 here. The operator was sitting on the ground, 
 holding between his legs the head of the patient, 
 who lay most resolutely on his back during the 
 infliction ; and it was difficult to award the 
 meed of praise between them the barber for 
 his skill and perseverance in clearing away a 
 week's growth of harsh bushy beard, with a 
 razor little better than an iron hoop, and with- 
 out either water or soap to facilitate its pro- 
 gress; or the victim of his bad tool, but dexte- 
 rous management, for the patience and good- 
 nature with which he bore the torture to the 
 last bristle of his chin. 
 
 On the beach, near the king's house, we found 
 a small but curious crab, which is common 'here. 
 These creatures bury themselves in the moist 
 sand or mud to the depth of a hand-breadth or 
 more. One of the largest which we dug up 
 was three-quarters of an inch in length, of a 
 dark brown colour ; others, however, are 
 marked with blue spots. The peculiarity of 
 this little animal is, that one of its fore-claws is 
 disproportionately large, being sometimes the 
 size of its whole body, and of a bright red tint ; 
 while the corresponding claw is of the same 
 colour with its legs, and so small as scarcely 
 to be perceptible without being sought out. 
 The eyes stand at the extremity of two pro- 
 jections, each half an inch in length. When 
 the crab enters its hole, these flexible instru- 
 ments, which can be moved in all directions, 
 turn downwards into grooves of the under shell, 
 where they are sheathed in perfect security. 
 On the approach of danger, these helpless crea- 
 tures burrow into the sand with surprising ce- 
 lerity ; but the sagacious hogs as quickly grub 
 them up with their snouts, and greedily devour 
 the delicate morsels. The natives call this 
 species ohitimataroa, the big-eyed crab. 
 
 In the evening, a person brought us a very 
 fine mat for sale, and requested to have a shirt 
 in exchange. He said that the reason why he 
 came so late was, that he wished to appear be- 
 comingly dressed on the morrow, the Sabbath. 
 Some friends of his, who had arrived from the 
 Leeward Islands, being poorly and scantily 
 clad, he had generously given them the best 
 clothes he had, leaving himself without suitable 
 covering for the public assembly. It is an an- 
 cient custom to give to a friend whatever he 
 asks for, whether food or raiment, and however 
 the owner may want it himself. To refuse a 
 request of this kind would be deemed such a 
 breach of hospitality as to bring upon the person 
 the reproach of being a churl, a character held 
 in abhorrence by these people, who, in some 
 respects, live as if they were all of one family, 
 and had everything in common. It was for- 
 
4S 
 
 TAIIO PLANTING A COURT OF JUSTICE. 
 
 merly so imperative to divide their morsel one 
 with another that when a man killed a hog it 
 was haked whole, and all his neighbours who 
 chose came to partake of it ; he himself having 
 only as much as he could eat, and the entire 
 carcase being devoured at a meal. Customs of 
 this kind, which suited the lazy and the sen- 
 sual, in their heathen state, are now fast falling, 
 as they ought, into disuse ; while Christian 
 charity, the principle of the purest benevolence, 
 makes them ready to communicate of their 
 good things to those that are in need, without 
 reckless waste or unnecessary impoverishment 
 of themselves for worthless vagabonds, of whom, 
 formerly, there were multitudes consuming the 
 fruits of the soil, and the produce of industry, 
 without cultivating the one or contributing to 
 the other. 
 
 Dec. 3. Mr. Platt, wishing to have a piece 
 of ground adjacent to his house planted with 
 taro (ammesculentum), had mentioned it to the 
 deacons, who assembled the congregation, last 
 Saturday, to consider whether they would do 
 the work for their minister. On the question 
 l>. -MIL: put the people gladly offered their ser- 
 vices, and this morning they came to fulfil their 
 engagement. The ground for the cultivation 
 of this root is low ami wet, and here it was co- 
 vered with rank and coarse vegetation. In a 
 few hours, however, the whole plot was cleared 
 and planted. The many hands made light 
 work, by an easy division of the whole into 
 small portions. Except two or three spades, 
 short, pointed sticks were the only tools em- 
 ployed to root up the grass, dig the soil, and 
 plant the taro. The labourers were very soon 
 ludicrously bespattered with mud, yet nothing 
 could exceed the good-humour with which they 
 performed their disagreeable task ; many of 
 them sat down iu the mire to gather out the 
 stones, and put in the plants. One woman 
 only was among them, with several boys. In 
 one quarter the king's servants were employed, 
 in another the queen's, and several bands else- 
 where ; all keeping to their own departments. 
 By noon, the whole was nearly completed, when 
 the work-people were entertained with a baked 
 hog and the usual vegetable fare, provided by 
 Air. Platt. On the occasion, sundry chiefs 
 headed their vassals, and toiled with their own 
 hands as hard as any of them. This is always 
 the case when any public service is to be done, 
 the principal men deeming it their honour to 
 be the ablest and busiest of the multitude, 
 who, under such encouragement as well as 
 superintendence, vie with each other who shall 
 do the most and the best in accomplishing the 
 common object. The taro plants are placed 
 something less than a yard apart ; this is neces- 
 sary, both to allow their luxuriant 'growth, and 
 that they may be regularly supplied with water. 
 The roots are fit for use in six months, but 
 both the bulk and quality are much improved 
 if permitted to remain in the ground a-year. 
 Roasted or boiled, the taro is excellent food. 
 
 Dec. 4. We have just witnessed the novel 
 scene of a court of justice here. Hard by the 
 chapel, there stamts a magnificent purau-tree, 
 
 round about and under the expanded shade of 
 which long forms for seats were fixed, enclosing 
 a square of about twenty-five feet across. No 
 pains had been taken to clear the ground, which 
 happened to be strewn with loose stones. The 
 judges took their places on the benches. Mo-t 
 of these were secondary chiefs, the superior 
 ones being with Pomare at Tahiti. They were 
 handsomely robed in purau mats and cloth 
 tibutas, with straw hats, and made a most 
 respectable appearance. There were nearly 
 thirty of these ; among whom one, called Ta- 
 pnni, having been previously appointed chair- 
 man of the tribunal, was distinguished above 
 the rest by a bunch of black feathers, gracefully 
 surmounted with red, in his hat. Hundreds of 
 people seated themselves on the outside of the 
 square. Two young men were then introduced, 
 who sat down quietly at the foot of the tree. 
 These were the culprits : they were e barged 
 with having stolen some bread-fruit. Silence 
 and earnest attention prevailed. Tapuni now 
 rose, and called upon the accused to stand up, 
 which they immediately did. He then 
 the offence for which they were arraigned, and 
 as their guilt was clear, having been detected in 
 the fact, he told them that they had committed 
 rebellion, by breaking the law, outraging the 
 authority of the king, and disgracing the cha- 
 racter of their country. One of the young men, 
 hereupon, frankly confessed that he had perpe- 
 trated the theft, and pursuaded his comrade to 
 share with him the crime and the plunder. 
 Witnesses are seldom called in such cases, of- 
 fenders generally acknowledging' their mi 
 and casting themselves on the justice of the 
 court to deal with them accordingly. This is 
 a remarkable circumstance, and \\, 
 that it is so common as to constitute a trait of 
 national character. A brief conversation fol- 
 lowed among the judges, respecting the ulna, or 
 punishment, to be inflicted on the youths, as 
 they were thus ftitihupa, or found guilty. Tin- 
 sentence was th'en delivered by the president ; 
 this was, that they should each build four 
 fathoms of a wall, now erecting about a plot of 
 taro ground, belonging to the king. In such 
 cases, the condemned are allowed their own 
 reasonable time to execute the task required, 
 and it generally happens that their friends, by 
 permission, lend them assistance. We have 
 seen an aged father helping his son to perform 
 hard labour of this kind, which must> never- 
 theless, be finished to the satisfaction of an 
 authorised inspector. It is remarkable, in the 
 administration of justice here, that, when the 
 sentence is pronounced, the criminal is 
 asked whether he himself agrees to it, and he 
 generally replies in the affirmative. There is 
 something very primitive and patriarchal in 
 this simple yet solemn form of conducting 
 trials. 
 
 A second cause now came on. The plaintiff 
 had engaged certain persons to plant a quantity 
 of land with tobacco, at a stipulated price. 
 While these were at work, two fclK>\ 
 employed by the plaintiff, volunteered their 
 assistance to the hired labourers. ^ hen the 
 
DEPARTURE FOR THE LEEWARD ISLANDS HUAHINE. 
 
 49 
 
 tobacco was ripe, these two came and took away 
 a quantity of the crop, as a compensation for 
 their officious services. The action was, 
 therefore, brought against them, to recover the 
 tobacco, or damages to the value of it. When 
 the case had been stated, much discussion 
 arose ; but, as it could not be found that the law 
 had made express provision for such an anoma- 
 lous offence, the consideration of the subject 
 was deferred till another time. 
 
 Near this Missionary station, called Papetoai, 
 the first destruction of idols took place. Mr. 
 Henry, still resident there, was present. A 
 chief named Pati, having fully made up his 
 mind to the perilous experiment, which should 
 prove whether the objects of his father's 
 worship and his own were gods or not, pub- 
 licly announced, before Fotnare and a great 
 number of the natives, that he would bring the 
 images from the marae in the adjacent valley, 
 and burn them, before the sun, next day. Some 
 of the Missionaries, fearful of the consequences, 
 advised him to consider well what he was about 
 to do ; but Mr. Henry, young, and zealous for 
 the Lord of Hosts, clapped the heroic chief on 
 the back, and encouraged him to lose no time 
 in carrying his good purpose into execution. 
 Accordingly, on the morrow, Pati brought his 
 family idols, three in number, upon his back, 
 to the place of execution. There throwing the 
 lumber down upon the ground, he took an axe, 
 hewed away the wicker-work that encased 
 them, and split the uncouth shapes, to see what 
 illicit be within, when bones of fishes and men, 
 that had been sacrificed, were found in the 
 cavities. The dumb logs and stocks were then 
 cast into the flames of a large tire, and presently 
 consumed to ashes the people gazing with 
 horror and astonishment on the sacrilegious 
 act, expecting that some signal vengeance 
 would overtake the bold assailant of the gods. 
 The latter, however, could not help themselves ; 
 and the spectators, witnessing such total impo- 
 tence, felt their faith in the superstition of their 
 ancestors not a little shaken. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Departure for tin; Leeward Islands Ilunhinc Distin- 
 guished NativesSpeeches-- Death of Pomare Grounds 
 on which the Effects produced by Christian Missions 
 in these Islands have been inisre presented Last 
 Injunctions and Dying Scene of Pomarc. 
 
 Dec. 5. TAKING leave of our friends in 
 Eimeo, we embarked on board the General 
 Gates, and were soon under way on our 
 voyage to the Leeward Islands. The breeze 
 was slight, but towards evening we came to 
 anchor off Tituroa, eight leagues distant from 
 Tahiti, Captain Riggs having determined to 
 land here for the purpose of purchasing a 
 further stock of provisions. 
 
 Dec. 6. Glad to escape from our confined 
 berths in the ship, we rose early. A large shark 
 being on the scout near the vessel, a hook well 
 baited was let down, and in a few minutes the 
 voracious animal was floundering on the deck, 
 where he was quickly despatched, and the fins, 
 
 or flippers, taken off, to be preserved for the 
 China market, where such commodities fetch 
 a good price. Mr. Tyerman accompanied 
 Captain Riggs in the boat, intending to land, 
 which, however, was a matter of no small diffi- 
 culty, and some peril. Tituroa is, in fact, a 
 group of coral islets, ten in number, compre- 
 hended within one general reef, and separated 
 from each other by interjacent lagoons. On the 
 reef the surf breaks perpetually, with great, 
 violence ; here the boat narrowly escaped being 
 wrecked in attempting to push into calm water. 
 At length an entrance was found, where the 
 Captain got on shore, by sometimes wading up 
 to the loins, and sometimes being carried on 
 men's shoulders. To his great disappointment 
 neither hogs nor fowls could be procured, and 
 only a small quantity of fruit and fish. An 
 effort to land on a second island proved inef- 
 fectual. 
 
 This group of motus (as they are called) is 
 about twenty miles in circuit. They are low, 
 flat spots, beautifully covered with cocoa-nut, 
 vii-apple (spondias dulcis), and other -trees ; 
 but the bread-fruit is not found growing here, 
 nor, indeed, on any of the coral islands to which 
 the salt water has access. On the contrary, the 
 cocoa frequently stands within the margin of 
 the sea, and shoots up in stately luxuriance, 
 with its shadow perpetually floating upon the 
 brine. There are no mountain-plantains nor 
 bananas here. The inhabitants of these com- 
 parative solitudes are few and poor ; and, though 
 they have acknowledged Christianity, are as 
 yet less instructed in it than those of the more 
 fertile and favoured adjacencies. 
 
 Dec. 7. Pursuing our course, about noon 
 the island of Huahine hove in sight, at the 
 distance of twenty-five miles over the lee-bow. 
 At lirst the appearance was conical, blue, and 
 dimly discernible ; but, as we approached, the 
 outline broke into distinct hills, and in the glow 
 of sunset many sharp peaks were seen crowding 
 through the evening sky. 
 
 Dec. 8. At day-break we neared Huahine. 
 The island, which is irregularly oval, much 
 resembles Eimeo in its aspect to the eye, 
 though the eminences are neither so high nor so 
 peaked as those of the latter, and are wooded 
 even to the summits ; their flanks, in some 
 places rocky and steep, are hollowed into nar- 
 row fissures or deep ravines. Numerous valleys, 
 descending from the interior, open towards the 
 beach. Many small islands, studding the face 
 of the sea on all sides, add a variety of graceful 
 objects, whether contemplated from the deck 
 or from the shore. One of very peculiar form, 
 standing apart, might have been taken for a 
 Chinese temple built upon the waves, when 
 seen from the point where we first descried its 
 tapering height against the horizon. It was 
 covered with cocoa-nut and other trees. Soon 
 afterwards, the Missionary settlement, at the 
 head of the bay, saluted our view, and was most 
 welcome to our hearts. It has an imposing 
 appearance, and reminded us more of a large 
 town than any place we had lately seen ; many 
 of th^ houses being of considerable size, all 
 
 E 
 
DISTINGUISHED NATIVES AT HUAHINE. 
 
 white, and the chapel, a noble edifice, in the 
 centre. A lofty mountain rises in the back- 
 ground of this expanded picture, between the 
 foot of which and the sea there runs a narrow 
 border of low land, rich in tropical trees, 
 pleasant to the eye and good for food. 
 
 Fronting this station, which is on Fare 
 Harbour, where Captain Cook formerly an- 
 chored, we could discern, towards the north- 
 west, the adjacent islands of Raiatea, Tahaa, 
 and Borabora, beautifully displayed between the 
 level ocean and the bending sky, that seemed 
 to enclose them behind and above with an 
 invisible fence. The morning was delightfully 
 serene, and with a gentle breeze we were soon 
 wafted through an opening of the reef into the 
 calm and safe lagoon. This reef of coral 
 extends across the bay, having two passages 
 through which entrance or egress may be made, 
 each about a quarter of a mile in breadth, with 
 great depth of water; while upon the rocky 
 barrier itself the surge is for ever rolling and 
 retreating in foam and spray, through which no 
 bark, however light or strong, can live to carry 
 a crew or cargo. The bay here is a mile wide, 
 and about as much inward from the reef to the 
 shore; and anchorage is so secure that vessels 
 generally He close upon the beach, and are 
 moored to a tree, head and stern. Two streams 
 of fresh water, one at the south and tin- other 
 at tin- north side, flow into the harbour, and 
 fcrtili/c the laud round the settlement. 
 
 Mr. Ellis and Mr. Barff, the Missionaries 
 here, sent their boat to bring us on shore, and 
 gave us a most cordial welcome to Huahine, on 
 which we were glad to set our feet, as on a field 
 which the Lord had blessed. By the time 
 when we had reached Mr. Barffs house, hun- 
 dreds of the natives had assembled to greet us, 
 whose laoranns "all good be with you" 
 rang in our ears ; but to shake hands WJttfe all 
 that, ollered was almost more than our strength 
 could endure; many children were among them, 
 and shouted for joy with the rest. With the 
 lirst whom we saw came Mahine and Mahine 
 Yahine, the king and queen of Maiaoite, who 
 ha\e great influence in this island, where they 
 usually reside. Mahine, when an idolater, 
 nas a mighty man of valour, and rendered 
 essential service in raising Pomare to his dignity 
 in Tahiti. In the last conflict, also, with the 
 heathen insurgents, he had distinguished him- 
 self pre-eminently. He commanded the third 
 division in the order of march to battle, and 
 when the first and second were compelled to 
 fall back he firmly advanced to charge the 
 enemy, whose chief leader was soon afterwards 
 slain by a shot from one of his men : total dis- 
 comfiture soon followed. On Mahine's return 
 to this island, after the war, as he leaped on 
 shore he exclaimed, " The idolaters were con- 
 quered by prayer." He seems about sixty years 
 of age, a tall and venerable man, and generally 
 in European costume. He might at 
 the time above mentioned have obtained ex- 
 tensive dominions, with great civil power, bnt 
 he nobly resigned the whole into the hands of 
 others, saying that he would have nothing to do 
 
 thenceforward with political affairs, but should 
 give himself to hearing the word and obeying 
 the will of God during the remainder of his 
 days. His consort is a woman of royal blood 
 and majestic presence, with courteous manners. 
 She dresses in the English fashion. This exalted 
 and good man has lately sustained a severe 
 stroke of affliction in the death of his son, by a 
 former wife, who, had he lived, would have 
 been king of Huahine. He was cut off by 
 rapid consumption in his twentieth year. To 
 aggravate the grief of the aged parent and the 
 community at large, who had a national in- 
 terest in his life, the youth was the last branch 
 of his family that had seen the light. He left, 
 however, a wife far advanced in pregnancy ; 
 and on the expected birth of a grandchild the 
 poor bereaved father hangs his hope of repara- 
 tion of the ruin of his house. In this prospect- 
 ive solace all the people affectionate! 
 pathise. His son died about a month since, 
 and was buried in the chapel-yard ; on which 
 occasion, close by the grave, Mahine hail a 
 little hut erected, wherein he remained, night 
 and day, sorrowing and seeking resignation, 
 till a few days ago, when he came forth as one 
 who could say, " Father, th\ \\i\l be done." 
 
 Our next visitor of rank was Pomare Vahine, 
 sister to Pomare's queen, and herself the queen 
 of Huahine. Her robe was a long shirt, which 
 reached nearly to the ground. She is an agree- 
 able woman in person and manners. 
 came Hautia, another princely personage, with 
 his wife, a helpmate worthy of him. 
 prime minister to the queen in fact he is re- 
 gent, and governs on her behalf. He was fol- 
 lowed by Taua, who was once the chief of all 
 the sooth<a\e!s, hut who now appears u pious 
 and exemplary Christian. The deacons of the 
 church, and many of the second rank of chiefs, 
 who are the landowners, also waited upon us 
 with their cheerful congratulations. This hearty 
 reception of ourselves, as the n-pn - 
 the Parent Society, Mas the more peculiarly gra- 
 tif\inu r to us because it proved the high 
 in which the resident Missionaries are held 
 here. Mr. Benuet was invited to take up his 
 abode with .Mr. Harff, and Mr. Tyerman with 
 Mr. Ellis, These excellent men, with their 
 amiable wives and families, occupy comfortahle 
 dwellings, built in the English style, surrounded 
 by neat and well-stocked gardens ; and while 
 they zealously devote their talents to the - 
 of man and the glory of God, they enjoy the filial 
 affection of the people among whom they labour. 
 Similar testimonies we can bear in reference to 
 all the faithful Missionaries whom we ha\c \ t 
 seen on the other islands. 
 
 Dec. 8. Being the Sabbath, we went to the 
 early prayer-meeting in the chapel, and were 
 astonished to find not fewer than a thousand 
 persons assembled to pay their morning Mm* to 
 God. These devout e\. . Tahiti and 
 
 Eimeo, were conducted entirely by natn< 
 consisted of singing, praying, and reading the 
 scriptures. About twelve hundred men, women, 
 and children, afterwards constituted th. 
 gregation, at the public service in the forenoon. 
 
MEETING TO WELCOME THE DEPUTATION SPEECHES. 
 
 51 
 
 The chapel is very compact and commodious, 
 and as many as sixteen hundred auditors have 
 occasionally been crowded into it. The pulpit 
 stands on one side of the square area. Around 
 it are placed the pews of the royal family and 
 those of the prineipal and secondary chiefs, ac- 
 cording to their rank ; beyond these are the forms 
 on which the commonalty sit, and also the Sun- 
 day scholars, of whom there where four hundred 
 present. Among these were the children of the 
 royal line, and of the great chiefs, prettily at- 
 tired, as their only distinction, in purau-mat 
 tibutas. After the sermons, in both parts of 
 the day, it was difficult for us to escape from the 
 good folks who thronged around us to express 
 their gladness at our arrival. But what pleased 
 us most was a notice, given out after service, 
 that to-morrow there would be a public meeting 
 of the islanders to aroha us among them. The 
 word aroha strictly means to compassionate, but 
 it is used also to signify love and delight, as 
 well as earnest desire, towards an object. Here 
 it implied, to give us a fervent welcome a wel- 
 come in which the tenderness of affectionate 
 hearts should be mingled with the joy of grate- 
 ful minds, on seeing the representatives of those 
 Christian friends, in a far country, who did not 
 neglect to aroha them in their low estate, but 
 sent the messengers of the everlasting gospel to 
 raise them from the dust and set them among 
 the princes of the Lord's people, yea, to make 
 them sit in heavenly places with Christ Jesus. 
 
 Dec. 9. Agreeable to the notice yesterday, the 
 people assembled in the chapel at three o'clock 
 this afternoon, to aroha us on our arrival. The 
 royal princes, chiefs, raatiras (landowners), 
 and other persons, of both sexes, all ages, and 
 divers classes, were present. A beautiful, heart- 
 moving spectacle it was, to look upon a thousand 
 human beings, so changed, as the adults all 
 were, from what they and their fathers had been, 
 through untold generations, and especially to 
 meet the lovely countenances and gazing eyes of 
 four hundred children among them, now train- 
 ing up in the nurture and admonition of the 
 Lord who, had the gospel not found them on 
 the threshold of life, and rescued them, would 
 (for the most part at least) have been murdered, 
 at their birth, by the parents to whom they owed 
 their existence, and from whose hands, perhaps 
 (as idolaters, wallowing in all manner of abo- 
 minations), death was the best boon they could 
 have received. After singing and prayer, we 
 each addressed the assembly on what God had 
 done for them, in them, and by them ; exhorting 
 these Christian professors, not only to nold fast 
 that whereunto they had attained, but to go on to 
 perfection, following after holiness with entire 
 devotion of heart, soul, mind, and strength to 
 the Lord's service. We also explained to them 
 the purposes of our visit, as a deputation to these 
 islands from the London Missionary Society. 
 Several speeches were then addressed to us ; our 
 good brethren, the Missionaries, acting as inter- 
 preters to both parties. We shall record speci- 
 mens of these as translated for us on the spot. 
 
 A 1111:1, one of the deacons of the church, said : 
 " Brethren, our hearts rejoice exceedingly on 
 
 account of the great goodness of God in bring- 
 ing you among us this day. Our hearts are filled 
 with love and affection towards you, though we 
 never saw your faces before yesterday. My tears 
 of gladness almost prevent my saying more. 
 You come from a very far land, on an errand of 
 good-will to us, and we desire that your visit 
 should be such an one as that of Barnabas to 
 Antioch, who, when he had seen the grace of 
 God, was glad, and exhorted them all, that with 
 purpose of heart they should cleave unto the 
 Lord. We, here, were in darkness, without the 
 knowledge of God or the way of life, when you, 
 in your country, turned your) eyes towards us. 
 But it was God who inclined* you to think of 
 us, and send teachers to instruct us in the good 
 word, and lead us into the way to heaven. We 
 now, with you, look to that Saviour who gives 
 endless life to those who believe in his name ; 
 and we, as well as you, love Him because He 
 first loved us, and sought us out when we were 
 running along the road to destruction. We 
 are pleased [to find that you have received our 
 little property, which we sent to the Society to 
 help them in causing the word of God to grow 
 in every country; and we pray that we may 
 never be weary in thus well-doing, but go on 
 and increase in our endeavours, that others may 
 be made as happy as we are. Pray you, dear 
 friends, for us, that we may hold on to the end ; 
 and if at any time we faint in this work, may 
 we remember the word of Him who hath said, 
 " Come unto me, all ye that labour and are 
 heavy laden, and I will give you rest." 
 
 Narii, a church-member, next spoke : "Friends, 
 elder brethren, fathers ! Peace be unto you, on 
 coming among us, from God and from Jesus 
 Christ! Our prayers have been answered, and 
 you have been brought hither in safety to the 
 delight of our hearts. We long ago learnt that 
 you were on your way, but now we have heard 
 your voices and seen your faces, in the midst of us 
 and our teachers, in the house of our heavenly 
 Father, yours as well as ours. Our faith is con- 
 firmed this day, by hearing from you the same 
 things which we hear from our teachers ; because 
 we see that your word and theirs is one. Some 
 of our brethren, who had heard that you were 
 coming, have died without seeing you. It is 
 the goodness of God which has lengthened our 
 breath to bid you welcome. These children, 
 on whom you love so much to look, we also 
 rejoice to behold alive at this time ; they are 
 property given unto us of the Lord, which we 
 dearly prize, and which we are determined to 
 dedicate to him ; in former days they might 
 have been all murdered ! But they and we now 
 meet you in the temple of Jehovah ! Ah ! it 
 was not BO once. Pray then for us, that the 
 Spirit of Christ may dwell in our hearts, and we 
 will pray for you. If we never meet you again 
 on earth, may we meet you and all our friends 
 beyond the sea, at the right hand of our Re- 
 deemer, in the kingdom of God." 
 
 Mahine, king of Maiaoite, then rose and said : 
 "We were on the brink of the fire of hell when 
 the first English captain found ,us ; and when 
 the second came we were all leaping do\\n the 
 
 K 2 
 
SCANDALOUS REPORTS OF VISITORS DESERTED DWELLINGS. 
 
 precipice of death. The ship Duff brought us 
 the love of God, and the message of mercy. And 
 yet we continued in the same wicked way. 
 That time however is past. The grace of God 
 lias turned our feet into the paths of peace and 
 endless life. We never thought of looking to 
 Him ; we desired neither Him nor his salva- 
 tion ; but He sought us, He called us, and He 
 made us to hear his voice. We old people well 
 remember what we formerly were. We hated, 
 and hunted, and killed one another. We once 
 fed on husks, but now we feast on the ripe bread- 
 fruit of the word of Christ. Through God's 
 love alone that word was brought to us, by our 
 kind friends and teachers, who leaped hither 
 over the tops of the breaking waves to help us. 
 May we then be faithful and steadfast to the end ; 
 never may you hear, after your return to Bri- 
 tain, that we have gone back to our evil ways ! 
 never may you have cause to exclaim ' Behold, 
 the land which we so much rejoiced to see 
 is become a land to be sorrowed and wept 
 over!' This is truly a harvest of joy. We 
 have long waited for it, and it is come at length. 
 I am an aged man, and I trust I am going to 
 Jesus : had I died before I saw your faces, I 
 should not have died so happily as I shall 
 now." 
 
 Teaua, one of the raatiras, made the follow- 
 ing remarks : ' Friends, you have come from 
 a very far country, out of love to our kings and 
 chiefs, and to us raatiras, and to all our people. 
 By the goodness of God you are come. We did 
 not love you ; we did not send anybody to you 
 to show you kindness. We never had such 
 friends before. The former king of Tahiti saw 
 your former brethren, and died. He is 110 more ; 
 but we live to see you among us and our rulers ; 
 and having seen you, they and we rejoice and 
 are happy together. Our kings are glad ; our 
 chiefs are glad ; our raatiras are glad ; our 
 people are glad ; and we all bid you, our two 
 elder brethren, welcome to Huahine, with praise 
 and thanksgiving to Jehovah for conducting 
 you safely hither." 
 
 It may be observed that these four persons 
 addressed us in the name of their respective 
 ranks which they represented. They all spoke 
 with ease, animation, and fluency. No transla- 
 tion can be expected to convey more than the 
 sentiments that were delivered, which, clothed 
 in their native idioms, possessed a grace and 
 simplicity not easily transferable into the diction 
 of a more polished tongue. 
 
 Dec. 8. At six o'clock this morning we visited 
 the schools, and were surprised to find two large 
 rooms well tilled : the one appropriated to men 
 and boys, the other to women and girls, all atten- 
 tive to their teachers, and employed upon their 
 various branches of learning. Among the rest 
 were the old king Mahine and his queen, who, 
 with their class-fellows, were conning their 
 Scripture lessons verse by verse, and answering 
 interrogatories which were put to them as they 
 proceeded. This is the exercise of every morn- 
 ing in the week, except Saturday and Sunday. 
 Some were learning their letters, others spelling, 
 many reading, and several were writing. 
 
 Mai, king of Borabora, has arrived here from 
 Tahiti, with tidings of the death of Pomare on 
 Friday last. The island was in great sorrow 
 and anxiety. Many rumours were afloat, and 
 fears excited, as to the result of this momentous 
 event. The mission is in the hand of God, and 
 we are content that He should do what seemeth 
 Him good with his own work and his own 
 servants. 
 
 Dec. 10. To show how little confidence is to 
 be placed in the reports of worldly-minded 
 strangers, who visit these islands, and are ill 
 disposed towards the moral revolution which has 
 taken place since the old licentious times, we 
 state the following circumstances. Captain R. 
 having given out that one of the principal chiefs 
 here had asked him for rum, which is a prohi- 
 bited liquor, on investigation of the fact we 
 found that the chief had inquired if he had any 
 trim; the Missionaries having ad-vised him to 
 obtain some, to take medicinally. The captain 
 thereupon insidiously set before him a glass of 
 rum, which the honest man, as soon as he per- 
 crivfd to he spirit, set down upon the table, and 
 resolutely refused to taste it, notwithstanding 
 the importunity of the captain. 
 
 Too many seamen who toucli at these islands, 
 expecting to revel, as of old, in all manner of 
 impurity, are ready, in their rage and disap- 
 l>nintinrnt, to propagate the most atrocious 
 slanders against these islanders and their Chris- 
 tian instructors, through whose influence they 
 are almost wholly prevented from alluring 
 females on board their vessels. A Captain P., 
 of the ship W., was so horribly provoked, when 
 he was off here, that he threatened to tin- a 
 broadside, at his departure, on the innocent in- 
 habitants, because they were more virtuous 
 than himself, impudently telling them, that if 
 any of them were killed, the Missionaries must 
 bear the blame. While this profligate fellow 
 was lately at Eimeo, he wrote a letter to a bro- 
 ther captain, at Tahiti, at the foot of which was 
 this postscript : " This is a desperately wicked 
 
 island ; there is not a to be had for 
 
 love or money." These things would be too 
 disgusting to record, but truth and justice re- 
 quire that the British public should know of 
 what spirit those men are who bring home evil 
 reports of these Christian converts, and vilify 
 the change of character and manners wrought 
 by the gospel upon these quondam idolaters, 
 who then were all that reprobate visitors could 
 desire, and now are .all that they hate. 
 
 We took a walk this evening up the side of 
 the mountain. Many traces of houses are scat- 
 tered abroad, the foundations of which only 
 remain. At a considerable height are the ruins 
 of a marae. Here, as in Eimeo and Tahiti, we 
 find similar proofs of a population, in former 
 years, far more abundant than at present. Hua- 
 hine was subjected to the same devastating 
 system of superstition and licentiousness as the 
 other islands. There was not, indeed, compa- 
 ratively, so much of war, human sacrifice, and 
 pestilent disease, but infanticide was awfully 
 frequent. An old chief informs us, that his 
 father told him that this was a modern practice, 
 
MISSIONARY SPEECHES OF NATIVES LAST WORDS OF POMARE. 53 
 
 resorted to by the women to prolong a youthful 
 and attractive appearance, which they supposed 
 would be lost if they suckled their offspring ; 
 and the innovation was sanctioned by the chiefs 
 in regard to their own children, the fruit of un- 
 equal marriages, to preserve a pure and legiti- 
 mate lineage of aristocracy. The Areois de- 
 stroyed their children, because they would not 
 be encumbered with them in pursuing their 
 migratory habits ; and girls were more especially 
 made away with than boys, because it was very 
 troublesome to rear them the abominable pro- 
 scription of the female sex requiring that their 
 food should be dressed in separate ovens from 
 that of their fathers and brothers, their hus- 
 bands and male kindred. 
 
 We have just learnt that Pomare, before his 
 demise, nominated his son, an infant of eighteen 
 months, to be his successor ; and also appointed 
 the queen (the boy's mother), her sister, Po- 
 mare Vahine, and five principal chiefs of Tahiti, 
 to be a regency during the long minority to 
 come ; he had further directed that the young 
 king should be solemnly crowned in the Euro- 
 pean manner, and requested that all the Mis- 
 sionaries would attend, and take their part in 
 I the ceremony. Pomare's dying charge was, 
 " If my son grow up a good man, receive him 
 as your king ; if a bad one, banish him to Hua- 
 hine !" He requested that his queen and her 
 sister would continue to reside in Tahiti with 
 his successor ; but if they should ever remove 
 to Huahine (of which Pomare Vahine is queen), 
 then that they would take his bones along with 
 them. These things he carefully settled with 
 his chiefs the day before his death. He like- 
 wise expressed anxious concern for the prospe- 
 rity of the religion of the gospel among his 
 people, to the last ; enjoining all classes to give 
 heed to the things that were spoken to them by 
 their teachers. He gave a special charge con- 
 cerning the cocoa-nut oil which had been con- 
 tributed by himself and his subjects for the 
 Missionary Society, that it should be intrusted 
 to a New Holland captain about to return 
 thither, but be held at the disposal of the Depu- 
 tation. 
 
 The contributions from the Missionary Asso- 
 ciation of this island (Huahine) in the present 
 year have been twelve balls of arrow-root, and 
 six thousand three hundred and forty-nine bam- 
 boos of cocoa-nut oil. At the Anniversary 
 Meeting in May last, among the memorandums 
 of addresses delivered, the following deserve 
 notice : Teaua, the secretary, said, " Another 
 master formerly was ours. Great was the work 
 we had then to do to build canoes, and to 
 make/aM (dresses) and taumi (head ornaments) 
 for warriors. Much property we gave to our 
 gods ; our great hogs, and even men, were sacri- 
 ficed to idols. Those days are gone by : let us 
 now be active in doing the good work in which 
 we are engaged ; let us do it with joy, and with 
 all our hearts ; let us not be spiritless in this 
 cause ; let us all be invincible heroes ; let us 
 drink the bitter sea-water" (i. e. willingly suf- 
 fer any privation in carrying it on). Hautia 
 
 said, " Our fathers are dead. They knew not 
 the good Avord nor the good customs of the pre- 
 sent days ; but through the grace of God we 
 know these things, and we must not sit still. 
 Solomon had work to do in his time ; he built 
 the house of Jehovah at Jerusalem. My friends, 
 God has given work into our hands also that his 
 house may be erected, and all the heathen en- 
 ter in. Remember the words of Isaiah : ' En- 
 large the place of thy tent ; and let them stretch 
 forth the curtains of thine habitation ; spare 
 not, lengthen thy cords, strengthen thy stakes.' 
 Well then, I say to you, let that place be en- 
 larged ; let those curtains be stretched out ; and 
 it will be well. I say also spare not: say not 
 that it is a great work, but let us collect the oil 
 again for next year." Mahine said } "We have 
 been in darkness, and had nearly died there- 
 in. We are a remnant left by Satan ; for if his 
 reign had been lengthened, all the people would 
 have been his, and they would all have been 
 destroyed by him for ever. We have lifted up 
 our hands, all of us, even the eight divisions of 
 Huahine ; but let not the hand only be lifted 
 up; my friends, we will lift up our hearts. 
 Behold our contributions ; they are less during 
 the past than the former year ; like the ebbing 
 tide they are falling off. It must not be so 
 again ; let the tide return, and let it always 
 increase. Our fathers are dead. They perished, 
 some by the club, some by the spear, some by 
 the stone from the sling, and some by quarrels 
 concerning their wives. We are saved from all 
 these evil things. Let us then be diligent to 
 do our duty. Like Caleb and Joshua, let us all 
 folloAV the Lord fully. Let us not hear the 
 good word of God with the outside of our 
 hearts, but let us keep it in the middle of our 
 hearts." 
 
 The great chief and regent here, Hautia, 
 speaking of the late king's death, said " I 
 could not sleep all night for thinking of Pomare. 
 1 \\;is like a canoe rocking on the stormy waves, 
 which cannot rest. I thought of his body, and 
 I said, in my heart, that is dead, and will soon 
 be in the grave ; but his soul, where is it?" 
 
 Mr. Red fern, a surgeon from Port Jackson, 
 and Mr. Crook, the Missionary, were present 
 with the king in his last hours. They found 
 him in a very low, comatose state, with short 
 lucid intervals. During one of these, Mr. Crook 
 addressed a few brief words of exhortation to 
 him ; and afterwards, seeing his end approach- 
 ing, observed, " I would gladly do for you Avhat 
 I can, but I fear my best will be of little avail. 
 You have indeed been a great sinner, but Christ 
 is a great Saviour, arid none but Jesus can help 
 you now." He replied, "None but Jesus!" 
 These were his last accents. He fell into a 
 lethargy. The queen and her sister hung over 
 him, weeping aloud. Aimata, his daughter, 
 seemed but little affected ; but his cousin Mani- 
 hinihi cried bitterly. The Missionary held the 
 young prince at the foot of the bed, and sat 
 mournfully watching the king's countenance. 
 At eight o'clock in the evening Pomare ceased 
 to breathe. Mr. Crook then kneeled down 
 
NATIVE MARRIAGE MISSIONARY SETTLEMENT. 
 
 with his afflicted family, and prayed for them. 
 Their anguish afterwards broke out in brief 
 ejaculations : " Alas ! alas ! our king ! He 
 brought us hither ! and now, alas, alas, for the 
 children !" These were uttered in a singing 
 tone, and were very loud and vehement at 
 times. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Native Marriage Missionary Settlement Gradations of 
 Society Interesting Visit and -Conversation Shocking 
 Practices of the old Idolaters Strata Coral forma- 
 tions. 
 
 Dec. 11. WE have had much conversation 
 with M:ihmc Vahine, the old king's consort, on 
 religious subjects. She spoke like a truly pious 
 and intelligent woman. We made her a few 
 slight presents ; among these was an engraved 
 portrait of Pomare, with which she was much 
 pleased, and touched to the heart, saying, 
 " Every time I look at this, it will make my 
 affection to grow." 
 
 A marriage has just been solemnized here. 
 Mr. Barff officiated as minister. The bride- 
 groom and the bride were of respectable rank, 
 and several persons attended to witness the cere- 
 mony. This commenced with reading a por- 
 tion of scripture from St. Matthew's Gospel, 
 concerning marriage. The young couple, who 
 had first taken their seats on a bench in front 
 of the pulpit, the woman on the left hand of her 
 intended husband, now stood up. The bride- 
 groom was then directed to take the bride's right 
 hand in his own, and answer the question, " Wilt 
 thou take this woman to be thy wife, and be 
 faithful to her till death V Having replied, " I 
 will," the converse of the question was put to 
 the bride, she, at the same time, taking his 
 riijht hand into hers, and answering *' I will." 
 The Missionary then told the congregation that 
 these two persons were man and wife. A charge 
 on their mutual duties was addressed to them, 
 and the ceremony was concluded with prayer. 
 The names of the parties, with those of two 
 witnesses, were then registered in a book kept 
 for that purpose. In all the islands marriages 
 are performed in this simple manner, the banns 
 having been once previously published in the 
 congregation to which the families belong. 
 When we came out of chapel, we saw the pro- 
 vision made for the wedding dinner. It con- 
 sisted of a large hog, baked whole ; about sixty 
 baskets of bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts ; many 
 fishes, of different kinds ; and several umitles 
 (wooden dishes) containing popoi, a kind of 
 pudding, and other delicacies. The feast was 
 laid out under an extensive shed. Several 
 hundred guests had been invited, and it was 
 expected that all the provisions would be con- 
 sumed. 
 
 Dec. 12. A meeting of the baptized has been 
 held in the chapel this afternoon. From six to 
 seven hundred persons were present. After a 
 brief discourse by a Missionary, several of the 
 congregation stated their Christian experience ; 
 they also quoted portions of Scripture on which 
 they had been meditating, and asked questions 
 
 on these and other religious topics, which were 
 answered by the minister. Interrogatories were 
 likewise put to them ; and in their replies, as 
 well as in the narratives which they gave con- 
 cerning their past lives, great ingenuousness was 
 manifested by all. 
 
 Here, as elsewhere, old things are passing 
 swiftly away, and, behold, all things are be- 
 coming new. Though the gospel had been in- 
 troduced before Mr. Ellis and Mr. Bartf came 
 hither, it had made little progress. These 
 able and diligent Missionaries, having fixed 
 their abode at this place, itinerated from hence 
 throughout the whole island, preaching every- 
 where, and instructing all classess of the popu- 
 lation that they should forsake dumb idols, and 
 turn to the living God. This laborious and 
 inconvenient system was continued till last year, 
 when, at a public meeting expressly convened, 
 it was proposed that the people should come 
 to their teachers, and settle in their immediate 
 neighbourhood, for the purpose of more fre- 
 quently and fully hearing the words whereby 
 they might be saved. A large majority of the 
 inhabitants acceded to this proposition, and, 
 flocking from all quarters, they soon began to 
 erect their humble but neat dwellings about 
 this beautiful bay ; the families of each of the 
 eight districts, into which the island is dhided, 
 voluntarily choosing to associate, and build near 
 to each other. Thus was the camp of this little 
 Israel distinguished by its several tribes, occu- 
 pying their adjacent tents. This plan was pro- 
 ductive of immediate and permanent benefit. 
 The former residents here were indolent and 
 slovenly, careless of comfort, and equally uncon- 
 cerned about spiritual improvement; in fact, 
 there was not a decent dwelling in the whole 
 place. Other portions of the island A\ ere much 
 in the same situation ; but since the new settle- 
 ment has been begun, the character and man- 
 ners of the people have been rapidly and happily 
 changed ; they are becoming more and more in- 
 dustrious, orderly, and cleanly, as well 
 intelligent and willing to b* instructed in the 
 things that pertain to godliness, finding it 
 profitable to this life, in addition to the promise 
 of the life to come. Many well-framed and 
 plastered houses have been built, and do- 
 mestic accommodations unknown to their an- 
 cestors are found under every roof. The in- 
 habitants still continue to keep and cultivate 
 the lands from which they removed, in the 
 distant matainaag, or districts, where much 
 timber is grown, suitable for all general pur- 
 poses. Thirteen or fourteen saw-pits are con- 
 stantly occupied by workmen, who manage the 
 pit-saw far better than might be expected ; and 
 now the same sized tree from which they could 
 formerly (by splitting the bole, and hewing 
 each part thin) produce only two planks. i> 
 handsomely cut into nine or ten good boards, 
 at less expense of time and labour. Those who 
 have plastered their habitations are much de- 
 lighted with the security which they afford 
 them. They say, also, that they are cooler in 
 warm, and warmer in cold, weather (being, 
 
IMPROVED CIRCUMSTANCES OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 f>f) 
 
 indeed, less affected by atmospheric changes) 
 than their old ones were, which they now con- 
 sider as only fit for pig-sties and lumber-stores. 
 One of the chiefs was observing, the other day, 
 that he and his family could now sleep in com- 
 fort in the night-time, when wind and rain are 
 beating against the walls, or pouring down upon 
 the roof ; whereas, while he lived in his old wat- 
 tled shed, on such occasions he was disturbed by 
 thinking Is such a piece of cloth out of the 
 way of the wet '? Where are the books'? won't 
 they all be spoiled 1 The provision, too, is it 
 safe ? 
 
 While these village-erections are thus carry- 
 ing forward, a new form of society is growing 
 up with them. The advantages of neighbourly 
 intercourse and religious instruction tend to 
 localize the settlers, and to wean them from 
 their vagrant habits of strolling from place to 
 place, and eating idle bread wherever they 
 could get it. The gospel may be said to have 
 first taught them the calm, enduring, and en- 
 dearing sweets of home, which their vagahoiid 
 forefathers, and many of themselves, hardly 
 knew to exist, till the religion of Him who had 
 not where to lay his head taught them how 
 good and how pleasant a thing it is for brethren 
 to dwell together in unity, instead of roving 
 like fishes, or littering like swine. 
 
 We also observe, with great satisfaction, that 
 Christianity, so far from destroying those dis- 
 tinctions in social life which a wise Providence 
 has made so necessary to human happiness that 
 no barbarians are entirely \\ it hunt them, has both 
 sanctioned and sanctified them here. The kings 
 and chiefs were never held in higher esteem h\ 
 their subjects and dependants than the} are 
 now ; nor are the gradations of rank in any part. 
 of Europe more easily recognised than in these 
 uttermost parts of the sea. High birth is ob- 
 servahle, not only in the countenances, speech, 
 and personal carriage of the may nates t but even 
 in the manner, or rather the order, in which 
 they walk. Though a causeway has been made 
 from the houses of the Missionaries to the 
 chapel, protected by cocoa-nut trees, laid along 
 the sides, the middle part being covered with 
 pebbles, and wide enough for several persons to 
 walk abreast, yet the people continue one to 
 follow another in line, as formerly, in the nar- 
 row tracks. If both be of the same rank, the 
 wife comes after the husband ; but if the wife 
 be a woman of rank, and the husband of an 
 inferior class, she goes first, and he, without ever 
 imagining himself degraded, treads in her steps. 
 A curious instance of this kind occurred to-day. 
 Mahine, the king of Maiaoiti, and Hautia, the 
 regent of Huahine, had hitherto received us in 
 their character as members only of the Christian 
 church ; but though they had paid us the most 
 grateful attention at the public Aroha, this was 
 not enough for their dignity as royal personages. 
 They, therefore, determined on giving us a token 
 of their esteem, in their political capacity, as 
 heads of the government. 
 
 To-day being appointed for our visit and au- 
 dience at the house of Hautia, we set off in the 
 afternoon from the chapel, accompanied by Mr. 
 
 Ellis and Mr. Barff. As we approached, we 
 passed between two rows of soldiers, with their 
 firelocks shouldered, and beyond these, drawn 
 up in like manner, all the raatiras, or land-pro- 
 prietors, with their war-spears grasped in their 
 hands. On entering the house, we found there 
 Mahine and Hautia, with their wives ; who 
 were presently joined by all the Hui Arii, or 
 royal family of this island, eleven persons, of 
 princely rank, in the whole. The wife of one 
 of these being an Arii by birth, and her husband 
 of inferior blood, he would not enter the house 
 till she had gone in before him, though all the 
 others, as a matter of course, took precedence 
 of their partners. As soon as we were all seated 
 on a signal given the soldiers fired their 
 muskets, and then retired, along with the ra- 
 atiras, to a shed which had been prepared for 
 their reception. 
 
 Hautia and Mahine occupied a very large 
 Arioi stool, at the upper end of the room. Mr. 
 Tyerman first addressed them, expressing our 
 high sense of gratitude for the honour which 
 they had done us by this signal mark of their 
 attention. He briefly stated the objects which 
 the Deputation contemplated, and the Christian 
 purposes of the London Society in sending us 
 so far. Ours, he said, was a visit of love to the 
 Missionaries, and of high respect to the kings 
 and chiefs of the various islands. The Depu- 
 tation rejoiced to see what God was doing here, 
 both in advancing the cause of religion and of 
 civili/ation. lie added the heartfelt thanks of 
 the Deputation to the sovereigns and their prin- 
 cipal officers, for the great kindness which had 
 heretofore been shown to the Missionaries, and 
 our hope that such protection would never be 
 withdrawn. Mr. Kills interpreted. llaulia 
 replied with much fervour; alluding to the for- 
 mer reprobate condition of the people with ab- 
 horrence, and then with delight acknowledging 
 the blessedness to which they had been called 
 by the gospel, and led by the Missionaries. Mr. 
 Bennet afterwards enforced similar sentiments ; 
 Mr. Barff interpreted, and Mahine returned a 
 pious and animated answer. There was a ua- 
 t ura I air of dignity and grace, both in the speech 
 and conduct of these two not less excellent than 
 exalted men, on the occasion. Command and 
 condescension alike became them. 
 
 Wine, pine-apples, bananas, and other fruit, 
 were theu placed upon the table, and we were 
 invited to partake. 
 
 After sitting some time, we walked out with 
 some of the company up the side of the moun- 
 tain, on the slope of which Hautia's house is 
 built. It is very steep, rocky, and covered with 
 fern, grass, &c. Having reached a considerable 
 elevation, we enjoyed superb views of the har- 
 bour, the reefs, the adjacent islets, the sea in its 
 boundless magnificence, on the one hand ; and 
 on the other, rich tropical prospects of hill and 
 dale, and woods of ample breadth, engirdled 
 by the winding shore, or leaning against the 
 dark-blue heaven, where distant uplands, with 
 their green declivities and craggy summits, 
 looked down from the very firmament upon the 
 puny eminence on which we had taken our 
 
5G 
 
 CORAL FORMATIONS CHANGES WROUGHT BY THE GOSPEL. 
 
 stand, and where we felt ourselves at a giddy 
 height, so little were we, individually, amidst 
 grandeur and beauty so overwhelming. In the 
 scene beneath, the coral barrier, rising from 
 unfathomable darkness to " the warm precincts 
 of the cheerful day," and stretching across the 
 harbour, formed a conspicuous object. On this, 
 the ocean-billows broke in foaming light, while, 
 smooth within, the bright lagoon lay culm and 
 exquisitely pictured with patches of landscape, 
 shapes of floating clouds, broad paths of sun- 
 shine, and clear depths of downward sky, re- 
 flected from its surface. Our companions told 
 us that, in their days of ignorance, they believed 
 the long rough coral reef to be a rib of one of 
 the gods, but how it came there they did not 
 pretend to know. We explained to them as 
 well as we could how these marvellous structures 
 I are formed by multitudes on multitudes of the 
 feeblest things that have life, through ages work- 
 ing together, and in succession, one mighty on- 
 ward purpose of the eternal God ; while each 
 poor worm, among the millions which perhaps 
 an angel could not count, is merely performing 
 the common functions of its brief existence, and 
 adding perhaps but a grain to a mass of mate- 
 rials which, in process of time, may fill up the 
 bed of the Pacific Ocean, and convert it into a 
 habitable continent. We showed them how thus 
 the motus, or low coral islands, had been gra- 
 dually raised above the flood, and become lovely 
 spots of verdure, capable of maintaining both 
 animals and men ; producing trees for food and 
 for building ; as well as plants to nourish hogs 
 and fowls, or sheep and cattle, such as had been 
 introduced into Eimeo, and might hereafter be 
 bred in all the fertile islands of this southern 
 hemisphere. This turn of the conversation led 
 us to speak of our wells, and the depth to which 
 we must often penetrate to obtain water ; also 
 of our mines and coal-pits, which sometimes 
 were extended even under the sea, as well 
 as sunk into stupendous caverns, in the hearts 
 and beneath the foundations of the highest hills. 
 They listened with patient but gratified curio- 
 sity ; and informed us that, when our country- 
 men first visited their shores, they thought that 
 England must be a poor hungry place, since the 
 people sailed so far to obtain their abundant 
 and delicious food ; nay they used to wonder 
 much that king George had not long ago come 
 hither himself, as he must have tasted or been 
 told of their fine pork. 
 
 On our return to the house, the raatiras were 
 attain drawn up to honour our entrance, holding 
 their war-spears :is ensigns of dignity in their 
 hands, there being happily now none but holi- 
 day use for such barbarous weapons here. 
 These persons are the possessors of landed 
 estates in capifr. They are an important class 
 of the community, and well aware of their im- 
 portance. In their public speeches they com- 
 pare the island to a canoe upon the ocean. 
 The king is the mast, and they (the raatiras) 
 are the ropes by which it is supported and the 
 sails are managed. While the ropes continue 
 good the mast is strong, and winds and waves 
 in vain Avould overset the vessel of the state. 
 
 Tea was now served to us in the English man- 
 ner, with all the complete apparatus of cups and 
 saucers, teapot, caddy, tray, spoons, &c., all 
 which had been purchased from ships touching 
 on the coast. Fried bananas and sea-biscuits 
 were Banded round, and nothing that hospi- 
 tality in such a place could offer was withheld 
 from us. After tea a prayer-meeting was pro- 
 posed and gladly acceded to. It was a heart- 
 humbling and heart-cheering sight to behold 
 all these ruling personages joining in such an 
 act of devotion, and pouring out their souls in 
 fervent supplication before the King of kings. 
 Nor let it be imagined that these are insignifi- 
 cant barbarians vested with a little brief autho- 
 rity. No European potentate possesses the 
 despotic sway which they once exercised ; and 
 in their evangelized state, their conduct and 
 demeanour as rulers and ministers of secular go- 
 vernment becomes them well, and would adorn 
 more polished and splendid courts in all that, 
 constitutes simple dignity and honest courtesy. 
 Dec. 14. The more we consider it, the more 
 marvellous in our eyes becomes the change 
 which the gospel the great power of God in- 
 deed ! has wrought in the hearts and minds of 
 these people. Meekness, gentleness, generosity, 
 are their leading characteristics. They seem 
 incapable of a cruel deed, owing to principles 
 engrafteft upon the once harsh but now rege- 
 nerated stock of nature, which forbid every act 
 of injustice, and are favourable only to kind- 
 ness, forbearance, and forgiveness of wrongs. It 
 is hard, perhaps impossible, for British Chris- 
 tians to divest themselves entirely of those feel- 
 ings of horror with which they arc wont to 
 look upon murderers, adulterers, and criminals 
 of the foulest die in their own country, when 
 they judge of heathen and savages who for- 
 merly were all these, and worse than may be 
 named in the ear however holy, harmless, and 
 exemplary may be the lives they now are lead- 
 ing in the fear of God, and in charity with all 
 mankind. Though such converts ^ive every 
 testimony that men can give, of " being born 
 again of water and the Spirit," yet even expe- 
 rienced " masters of Israel," when they hear 
 the report thereof, are ready to exclaim with 
 Nicodemus, " How can these things 6c?" We 
 answer, they ore; and "the day will declare 
 it." A man called upon us to offer a small 
 present. In conversation with him we were 
 struck with the humility, kindness, and devo- 
 tional spirit which he manifested. On inquiry 
 afterwards, it appeared that this very person 
 had been one of the most savage and remorse- 
 less of his species so long as he remained an 
 idolater and a warrior. On one occasion, hav- 
 ing been sent by Pomare to destroy an enemy, 
 he went, surprised his victim, ripped him up 
 alive, and actually left the wretched man on the 
 spot after his bowels had been torn out the 
 assassin not having mercy enough to put him 
 out of torture by another stroke. After their 
 ferocious conflicts were over, the conquerors 
 were wont to pile the slain in heaps, with their 
 heads towards the mountains, and their feet 
 towards the sea. Next morning they would 
 
MOUNTAIN STRATA AN EXTRAORDINARY TREE. 
 
 57 
 
 visit the carcases to wreak the impotence of an 
 unappeasable vengeance upon them, by man- 
 gling and polluting them in the most shocking 
 ways that brute cruelty or demoniac frenzy 
 could devise. One would turn up the face of a 
 slaughtered enemy, and, grinning with a fiend- 
 like malice at it, would exclaim, " Aha ! you 
 killed my father at such a place ; now I will 
 punish you !" Their outrages upon the women 
 and children, both living and dead, of their 
 vanquished foes, when they sacked their dwell- 
 ings, cannot be described. If the enlightened 
 Greeks and the heroic Romans in their heathen 
 state were " without natural affection, impla- 
 cable, unmerciful," what better could be the 
 ignorant barbarians of the South Seas, insulated 
 as they had been, till our own times, from all 
 communication with civilized nations 1 And if 
 some of those Romans afterwards, through 
 " obedience to the faith," were " called of 
 Jesus Christ," and " beloved of God ;" and if 
 many of those Greeks were " sanctified in 
 Christ Jesus, called to be saints," who shall 
 doubt that these " Gentiles in the flesh," 
 " aliens from the commonwealth of Israel, and 
 strangers to the covenants of promise, having 
 no hope, and without God in the world ;" 
 who shall doubt that these may be " brought 
 nigh by the blood of Christ," and be " no more 
 strangers and foreigners, but fellow-citizens 
 with the saints and of the household of God 1" 
 
 Dec. 10. We walked this morning north- 
 ward of the settlement. About the centre 
 point of the head of this harbour, and a hun- 
 dred yards from the shore, the rocks project, 
 and form a bold feature of scenery. On exa- 
 mining these, we found that they were com- 
 posed of alternate strata of blue stone and 
 coarse breccia, eacli layer about two feet thick, 
 and all dipping towards the north-west, at an 
 angle of 25 with the horizon. The blue stone 
 is] much honeycombed, abounding with cavi- 
 ties. Most of the rocks of this and the other 
 islands have the same character, which, with 
 their black surfaces, seems to prove that they 
 have been subjected to volcanic action. In 
 the neighbouring mountains a firm blue clay 
 abounds, which contains great quantities of 
 nodules, resembling charcoal ; and the rocks 
 themselves appear to be of the same material, 
 only differing from the clay in hardness. 
 
 A little further to the north, the dip of the 
 strata inclines more towards the plane of the 
 horizon, and the blue stone has been removed 
 from the incumbent breccia, so as to divide it 
 beneath. On one side of the breccia are per- 
 pendicular strata of ragstone, of a slaty struc- 
 ture, furrowed at the edges, where they cross- 
 cut. From these run two thinner strata of the 
 same kind, about three inches in thickness, and 
 three inches apart, athwart the breccia. A soft 
 earthy substance fills up the interstice, in which 
 are fragments of shells; and among these a 
 specimen of the genus turbini, nearly perfect, 
 was found. These parts of the rock, from the 
 presence of such remains, must be presumed 
 not to have been subjected to the fusing and 
 consuming violence of fire. 
 
 "We proceeded along the level ground, be- 
 tween the abrupt ascent of the mountains and 
 the sea. This fertile border is in some places a 
 mile in breadth, and forms the valuable district 
 of Puaoa. That the tide formerly flowed here, 
 even to the mountain-foot, cannot be doubted, 
 the soil consisting of earth, intermingled with 
 marine relics, shells, coral, sand, &c. Much of 
 this champaign tract is planted with bananas, 
 sweet potatoes, &c. ; bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, and 
 Chinese paper-mulberry-trees (Ficus racemosa], 
 also thrive upon it. On one part stands an ex- 
 ceedingly remarkable tree, of the aoa, or oro 
 species (the banyan of India), from the bark of 
 which the cloth of that name is manufactured. 
 This grotesque tree grows upon one side of a 
 rock, nearly perpendicular, over the front of 
 which (being from thirty to forty feet high, and 
 as many broad) hundreds of its roots descend, 
 singularly implicated, and forming a kind of 
 net-work. The stems of the tree above rise up 
 thirty feet at least from the rock, being sup- 
 ported by multitudes of roots, which find their 
 sustenance in the soil below. These occupy a 
 space nearly a hundred feet in compass, and 
 display various arches and recesses of most cu- 
 rious appearance. On one side, the impending 
 branches have sent down a root of forty feet, 
 which, having got footing in the ground, has 
 given birth to a young tree. Multitudes of 
 other long fibrous shoots, of a black colour, are 
 growing downward from the horizontal branches 
 above, which, though dangling wildly in the air 
 now, Avill strike root as soon as they reach the 
 ground, and add their antic columns to " the 
 pillar'd shade." The natives have a tradition 
 that the seed of this gigantic plant was brought 
 by a bird from the moon. 
 
 In calling at several houses, we found two 
 dreadfully afflicted persons sitting upon the 
 floor. The complaint is called foe-fee, a species 
 of elephantiasis, the direst plague in the shape 
 of a disease of these islands. The legs and 
 thighs of one of these were swollen to a pro- 
 digious size ; the bulk and weight of the lower 
 part of the body of the other prevented the poor 
 patient from rising up. He was a young man, 
 about twenty-five years of age, and had not 
 been more than three years under the oppression 
 of this cruel and inveterate malady. He bore 
 his hard lot with exemplary patience. 
 
 The cause why the sea has abandoned so 
 much ground, now constituting the low borders 
 of this and other islands, may be sought in the 
 extraordinary formation of the coral reefs which 
 encircle them. Before these had attained suf- 
 ficient extent and elevation, the tide must have 
 had full access to the foot of the mountains ; 
 and the many high cliffs which rise abruptly 
 from the inland side of these level tracts seem 
 to indicate that the islands themselves were 
 once much larger than they now are ; and, con- 
 sequently, that the sea has removed all the 
 ground which lay between the present steep 
 faces of the mountains and their original bound- 
 ary. At a very remote period, no doubt, the 
 coral-worms began their labours, and these mi- 
 nute but wonderful artificers probably laid the 
 
58 
 
 MANUAL OCCUPATIONS OF THE NATIVES. 
 
 foundations of their stupendous structures upon 
 the rocks, from which the washing of the sea 
 had cleared the earth and looser strata. *" As the 
 reefs grew beneath the flood, the force of the 
 ocean against the land would be gradually di- 
 minished ; and when the former reached the 
 surface of the water, they would afford (as they 
 do now) protection to the shore from all fur- 
 ther encroachment on the part of the tide. 
 Depositions from the sea, and earth brought by 
 rains from the high lands, would gradually fill 
 up the space left between the reefs and the 
 mountains. This has been done to a consider- 
 able extent, and the soil so accumulated is now 
 covered with the richest vegetation. Thus 
 those immense basins (called lagoons, so far as 
 they are occupied by water) were formed, of 
 which the coral ramparts on the one side, and 
 the tall cliffs on the other, are the boundaries. 
 In some cases, the reefs run to the foot of the 
 mountains ; but, in general, they rise at some 
 distance from a few yards to two or three 
 miles. Upon these rugged circumvallations the 
 waves beat with perpetual violence ; while, in 
 those hollows between them and the low flat 
 coast, the lagoon is diffused in blue tranquillity, 
 and, except when lashed into turbulence by the 
 winds, scarcely a breaker is seen on the beach. 
 Under the direction of a wise and beneficent 
 Providence, how much Are these islands in- 
 debted to the poor and slender coral insect, for 
 the construction of those mighty moles that 
 curb the fury of the mightier deep, and, by their 
 happy interference, have occasioned those fruit- 
 ful lines of level soil to spread between the hills 
 and floods, which furnish the inhabitants with 
 the principal part both of their food and rai- 
 ment! 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Manu:il Oorui>atimis ,,f the Natives Plan for nn Insur- 
 rection N.itiM* Carpentry TlM Bread-fruit Tree 
 Aromatic Grass Mountain Prospect The Cocoa-nut 
 
 TriM-. 
 
 Dec. 17. THE daily occupations of these 
 islanders are household affairs, providing food, 
 building their houses, constructing canoes, sail- 
 ing, fishing, planting their grounds, making 
 fences, manufacturing cloth, hats, bonnets, all 
 kinds of apparel, &c. Before Christianity found 
 them, the principal part of their time was spent 
 in eating, sleeping, and profligacy; but now 
 their hours are generally employed in honest 
 and profitable labour, or useful and pleasant 
 engagements, among which school-learn im; and 
 tasks at home are highly prized. Few indulge 
 themselves in unnecessary sleep, even in the 
 middle of the day. The kings, queens, and 
 chiefs of both sexes, take the lead, and love 
 to excel in all sorts of work. Though they have 
 many persons at their command, and ready to 
 execute all their wishes, they are not ashamed 
 to labour with their own hands, both for ex- 
 ample's sake, and for the delight they take in 
 doing every thing well yea, better than others. 
 If any of their dependants should leave them 
 behind in carpentry, boat-building, or other 
 
 handicraft, the highest among them would be 
 mortified. In the same spirit, if any of the fe- 
 male servants of a principal woman could make 
 a finer cloth, or devise more elegant patterns 
 wherewith to ornament it, than she, the mis- 
 tress would feel herself humbled. 
 
 Dec. 18. About half a year ago, a spirit of 
 insubordination manifested itself in Huahine. 
 There were upwards of a hundred of the most 
 headstrong young men in the island, who, being 
 dissatisfied with the strictness of Christian dis- 
 cipline, determined to restore or at least among 
 themselves to practise, the old habits of licenti- 
 ousness. They had conspired to take away the 
 life of Hautia, the regent ; and hoping that the 
 raatiras would join them against the Hui Arii 
 (royal family) and the Christians, they actually 
 took up arms, though their array was not very 
 formidable, a few muskets, clubs, and spears 
 being all the weapons they could collect. The 
 civil authority mustered its forces promptly, and 
 coming suddenly upon the rebels demanded 
 their immediate unconditional surrender. They 
 acquiesced, and the ringleaders were brought to 
 justice. It was found that they had tattooed 
 themselves, which, though harmless in itst-lf, is 
 now contrary to law, as associated with obsolete 
 abominations ; by them it was used as a s\ mhol 
 of their dissatisfaction with the better order of 
 things, and a signal for revolt against the exist- 
 ing government. Many of these malcontents 
 proved to be refugees from other islai:< 
 had resorted hither that they might retuni to 
 their heathen freedom from religious restraint. 
 These aliens were all sent home, and the nathes 
 were condemned to hard labour on the public 
 works, such as roads, piers, &c. Their chief, 
 a youth of high rank, was equally degraded and 
 punished with the rest. It is remarkable that, 
 about the same time, there were similar insur- 
 rections in Tahiti and Raiatea, but in both those 
 islands the projects of the factions wen : 
 and frustrated. 
 
 The Hui Arii here, having just now r< 
 a communication from Tahiti, requeuing their 
 attendance at that metropolitan station, to con- 
 sent to tin- young Pomare's accession to his late 
 father's sovereignty, Mahine came to consult the 
 Missionaries; for the confidence which all ranks 
 place in their teachers leads them to ask their 
 advice on anything of importance ; and truly 
 these excellent men are worthy of the 
 and confidence reposed in them. Mahine, be- 
 ing king of Eimeo, and chief of a large district 
 in Tahiti, it was necessary that he at lea-t 
 should make the voyage. But mark the active 
 piety of this venerable man. Recollecting that 
 his other island, Maioiti, was not yet full) -up- 
 plied with copies of all the translated portions 
 of the Scriptures, he requested to have a hun- 
 dred copies of the Gospel of St. John, which i* 
 only just printed, that he might call and dis- 
 tribute them among his subjects there, on his 
 way. 
 
 Dec. 19. The Deputation agreed to address 
 a letter of condolence to the queen of Tahiti, 
 on the death of her husband, Pomare, which 
 was done, and intrusted to the care of Mahine, 
 
NATIVE CARPENTRY THE BREAD-FRUIT TREE. 
 
 59 
 
 at whose house we spent a pleasant afternoon. 
 In the evening he and several chiefs, with their 
 suite, between seventy and eighty persons in all, 
 embarked in a large boat, with a favourable 
 breeze, hoping to reach Tahiti in twenty-four 
 hours. 
 
 We took the dimensions of the chapel here, 
 and found them a hundred feet by sixty. One 
 end of this spacious structure was built by king 
 Mahine, the other by Hautia, the regent, and 
 the middle by the raatiras. The pews were put 
 up by the different chiefs, according to their 
 respective taste and fancy, yet following a ge- 
 neral plan laid down for them. The work- 
 manship was executed by hands which had 
 never done anything of the kind before. When 
 this is considered, and also that they had 
 scarcely any tools (those which they had being 
 indifferent ones), it must be confessed that the 
 result of their labours was very creditable to 
 their skill and industry ; though, being unaccus- 
 
 tomed to square and line, some parts lean one 
 way and some another ; while the whole, of 
 course, is more compact than symmetrical. The 
 pulpit, however, is a fair piece of carpentry. 
 One ingenious workman, who had made a sofa 
 for his seat in the chapel, to his utter astonish- 
 ment, when he placed it there, discovered that 
 it would not stand upon its legs, though it had 
 six substantial ones. When he sat down at one 
 end, the other tilted up no small height in the 
 air ; and when he rose, down came that which 
 had been in the ascendant, according to the 
 laws of gravitation. Not discouraged by this 
 ill-omened beginning, he addressed himself to 
 construct another on more geometrical prin- 
 ciples. This perfectly answered his hopes, and 
 very quietly bears both its own weight and his. 
 Such pieces of furniture are now made, with 
 great neatness and accurate adjustment, for 
 private houses. 
 
 Dec. 21. The bread-fruit trees are at this 
 sr;i-<m in full bearing, and grow to the highest 
 perfection in this island. The Linnscan name is 
 artocarpua incisa. This tree being well known 
 
 to voyagers, and through them by name to the 
 public, a popular rather than a scientific de- 
 scription of it may be acceptable here. It grows 
 to the size of an ash in England, and is not 
 
60 
 
 THE BREAD-FRUIT TREE AROMATIC GRASS. 
 
 unlike that tree in form and the colour of its 
 bark. The branches affect an upright position. 
 The leaves are much like those of the fig, but 
 more deeply indented, besides growing to a far 
 
 . greater size, some being a foot and a half long. 
 
 I Its appearance is \ery stately and luxuriant. 
 The fruit is egg-shaped, and sometimes measures 
 twenty-two inches in its shortest, and twenty - 
 
 I five in its largest circumference. The rind is 
 
 | smooth, green, and marked with hexagonal 
 specks. Under this skin lies the pulp which is 
 eaten, and within that a fibrous core, con- 
 taining the seeds. The tree is propagated by 
 scions springing from the root of the old stock. 
 These are either suffered to remain and grow 
 up in a clump, or are transplanted singly. 
 They require to be carefully attended to ; the 
 ground must be kept clear from weeds for some 
 time, and also well fenced from the hogs, who 
 devour the plants greedily wherever they can 
 light upon such dainties. They are cultivated 
 almost entirely on the low- grounds, rarely 
 thriving on the mountain-sides, or very near 
 the sea. The trees retain perennial ver- 
 dure, and bear four crops of fruit in the 
 year. The manifold bounty of Providence is 
 remarkably manifested in giving this valuable 
 product of a soil not copious in variety of 
 plants to the people of these islands. It sup- 
 plies them with food, raiment, and timber 
 each in its kind abundant and excellent. Their 
 canoes are hollowed out of its trunk, or framed 
 from its planks ; the beams, rafters, and flooring 
 of their houses are hewn out of its substance ; 
 and it also furnishes a good pitch, in the gum 
 which exudes from holes bored into its stem. 
 Of the bark a very useful description of cloth is 
 prepared, and with this, indeed, they would 
 want no other. The fruit is a delicate and 
 wholesome substitute for bread ; being very 
 nutritious, and of a sweet and pleasant flavour. 
 Various modes of dressing this food are in use 
 among the natives, which is never eaten with- 
 out being cooked. The skin being pared away, 
 the pulp is most generally split and roasted, or 
 rather baked, in earthen ovens, upon and under 
 hot stones ; and it is often thus cooked with 
 part of a hog, a fowl, or a fish. When taken 
 out, it is soft and mealy, much resembling, in 
 colour and taste, fine sponge biscuit. The 
 natives frequently beat or squeeze it in their 
 hands, and dip the pieces in salt water, when 
 they eat it. This fruit, in fact, is the principal 
 support of the people, who seldom make a meal 
 without a large proportion of it. They call it 
 maiore. Though there are about thirty varieties 
 of this tree, which come in contemporaneously, 
 or in close succession, each bringing four crops 
 in the year, yet there are more than three months 
 out of the twelve when the fruit is either not to 
 be obtained or very scarce. To compensate 
 this inconvenience, the inhabitants preserve 
 great quantities of that which is quite ripe, in 
 pits, about four feet deep, and of the same 
 width. These pits are carefully lined with grass, 
 and then with the leaves of the tii-plant, dra- 
 c(r)ia terminally, which give an agreeable flavour 
 to the preserved fruit. The latter, being cleared 
 
 of the green coating, and split, is thrown to- 
 gether in a heap, and covered with leaves, for 
 from twenty-four to forty-eight hours, as the 
 state of the weather may be. The pile is then 
 opened, and the cores of all the split pieces 
 being extracted, these are again laid together ; 
 after which the whole undergoes a process of 
 fermentation, and becomes soft. It is then 
 stowed in the pit, covered with grass, and the 
 grass pressed down with stones. The bread- 
 fruit thus cured is taken out of these store-pits 
 from time to time, as it may be wanted, in the 
 state of a sour paste, when it is dressed according 
 to every man's taste. Though the natives, from 
 habit, are fond of it in this way, the food is 
 difficult of digestion, and by no means whole- 
 some. 
 
 Dec. 22. We walked up the valley this after- 
 noon, that we might reach, if practicable, the 
 summit of the right-hand mountain, and examine 
 the rocks which crown it. Having tracked the. 
 stream for some distance, we began to climb the 
 steep acclivity through a forest so tangled 
 with underwood that it was often difficult to 
 thread or force our way. Many of the trees 
 grow to a prodigious bulk, especially the mape, 
 a species of large chesnut, (tuscarpiis edulis,) the 
 fruit of which the natives roast ami reckon de- 
 licious. This tree writhes itself into most 
 fantastic shapes, and attains an enormous 
 breadth as well as height. The trunk 
 gularly indented, like a deeply and irregularly 
 fluted pillar, leaving in some places scarcely 
 more than the thickness of a plank in the 
 middle. Some specimens were evidently of 
 incomputable age, measuring from forty to fifty 
 feet in girth. Higher up the mountain we found 
 traces of ancient but long-forsaken dwellings, 
 and contiguous to them groves of bread-fruit 
 trees that once had fed the generations gone by. 
 A great variety of parasitical plants, especially 
 ferns, clothed the stems and branches of the old 
 trees to the very top. One fern display <! 
 from three and a half to fourteen feet in length, 
 growing on the side of a deep ravine, and 
 was of that kind the roots of which the natives, in 
 times of great scarcity, are constrained to eat, but 
 it is very indifferent food even to their ; 
 
 Dec. 2i. We- scaled the mountain Aridi, on 
 the south of Mr. Ellis's house. The sides arc 
 very steep, and it was a laborious effort to train 
 the top, which is computed to be three thousand 
 feet above the lagoon. Red and blue clay, and 
 stone of the same colours, compose this moun- 
 tain. Among other plants we observed many 
 tufts of a short kind of grass, which the natives 
 call More tohe noanon on account of its strong 
 aromatic scent, which is most rank in the tohc, 
 or part above ground : in the blade there is 
 nothing remarkable. From the crest of this 
 eminence the panorama of land and 
 truly sublime ; and the mind is expanded and 
 elevated as the eye expatiates over its various 
 and richly-contrasted features. There are but 
 two points of land so high as to interrupt the 
 sight from losing itself within a ring of horizon 
 immeasurably spread. At the head of the bay, 
 and the foot of the hill, lies the Missionary set- 
 
MOUNTAIN PROSPECT THE COCOA-NUT TREE. 
 
 61 
 
 tlement, with its multitude of small buildings 
 in every stage of erection. Northward, a grace- 
 fully curved tongue of land, green and flourish- 
 ing with tropical fruit-trees, runs several miles 
 into the sea. North-east appear the sharp 
 ridges which, rising abruptly tier above tier, 
 accumulate into the great mountain already 
 mentioned as the loftiest in the island. This 
 may be five thousand feet above the sea ; and, 
 from the champaign below even to the peak, 
 it is clad with copses and woods covering the 
 fissures and ravines which descend along its 
 sides towards a deep valley, that opens to the 
 harbour, and pours into the lagoon its perpe- 
 tual stream of clear, fresh water. A little be- 
 low, the summit of this mountain juts out of 
 the broad face of an immense rock, striped with 
 various strata, some nearly horizontal and others 
 dipping towards the north-west, at an angle 
 of about 45. The extremity of the subjacent 
 valley forms a vast amphitheatre, crowded with 
 majestic trees. The chain of heights appears 
 continuous Avith this paramount one, quite 
 round the south to south-west ; and, over the 
 hollows of the undulated outline, the sea gleams 
 blue and crystalline beyond. The harbour of 
 Haapape lies at the foot of the hill on which we 
 stood, and which, on this flank, is nearly per- 
 pendicular. The basin is deep to the very 
 shores, which are coral-reefs, where ships may 
 lie close and perfectly secure. South-west of 
 this lagoon an eminence, loftier than that which 
 we now occupied, rises with imposing grandeur 
 of form and ruggedness of character. Instead 
 of being clothed from head to foot, like the 
 former and superior one, on the opposite quar- 
 ter, with tall groves and verdant thickets, this 
 sterner mass is composed of rocks, of which 
 the abrupt edges and diversified strata, at 
 various degrees of obliquity, break out, at fre- 
 quent intervals of space, from the top to the 
 bottom. Turning our eyes seaward, the is- 
 lands of Raiatea and Tahaa, at the distance 
 of thirty miles, lay in miniature beauty, yet 
 filling the mind with the idea of remote 
 magnificence by the boldness of their contour ; 
 while the pyramidal peaks of Borabora, at thrice 
 the breadth of intervening water, were distinctly 
 visible. But words cannot paint images with 
 sufficient accuracy to justify lengthened de- 
 scription ; on no subject is the impotence of 
 language so perplexingly felt, by those who 
 best know its utmost capabilities of delineating 
 natural scenery, as when one man, from per- 
 sonal knowledge, endeavours to convey to the 
 apprehension of another the colour, form, ar- 
 rangement, and effect of fixed and definite ob- 
 jects. 
 
 Dec. 25. Being Christmas-day, we were in 
 spirit at home, among our English friends and 
 kindred ; and trusted that they would also 
 though unknowing where vse were remember 
 us, at " the ends of the earth," or " afar off upon 
 the sea." 
 
 Next to the bread-fruit, already described, 
 the cocoa-nut tree, cocos-micifera, is the most 
 valuable product of the soil in these islands. 
 It grows to the height of seventy or eighty 
 
 feet. The stem tapers from the bottom gra- 
 dually to the top, without branch or offset ; 
 but at the summit it shoots forth from twenty 
 to thirty vast leaves, some of which are six or 
 seven yards in length. These hang in a grace- 
 ful tuft all round the crown of the trunk. When 
 young and small the leaves are entire, but as 
 they lengthen they divide into narrow slips, 
 each of which has a wiry rib running up the 
 middle, and diverging from the spinal stalk of 
 the leaf as it may be called. Though strong 
 at the point of contact with the tree, the weight 
 of this enormous foliage would soon break it 
 off, but, where it branches out, a cloth-like sub- 
 stance called Aa, whose fibres run at right 
 angles with each other, is formed, and invests 
 the tree with a strong and needful intertexture, 
 running also about twenty-four inches up the 
 leaf, and affording it complete support. From 
 among the junctures of these leaves with the 
 head of the stock spring branches of tendrils, 
 on which grows the fruit, a nut enveloped with 
 a husk about two and a half inches thick, green 
 on the outside, and composed of close- tough 
 fibres, which run longitudinally from end to end, 
 presenting an oval shape, rather angular at 
 the sides. The shell is hard and black, the 
 kernel white, lining the shell, and containing 
 the milky water within ; but the nut being 
 often brought to England, no minute descrip- 
 tion can be necessary in this place. Some 
 trees will produce, at the same time, a hundred 
 nuts, each containing from half a pint to a 
 wine-quart of the liquor : and these noble fruits 
 closely encircle the top of the stem, like a beaded 
 belt, or coronet, beneath the pendent crest of 
 plume-like leaves. 
 
 The trunk of this remarkable tree is a bundle 
 of fibres closely connected by a cementing mat- 
 ter. "Within two or three feet of the ground, 
 these fibres spread forth into thousands of small 
 roots, which insinuate themselves through the 
 superficial earth, and spread horizontally twelve 
 or fourteen feet from the bole in all directions. 
 This cordage must be amazingly strong, for it 
 supports the whole tree with all its bulk and 
 weight of stem, foliage, and fruit. The bark 
 seems to be of little use in this species, as it 
 generally rots off towards the ground at an early 
 stage. We have seen cocoa-stocks decayed 
 through the heart, and others of which large 
 portions of the outside had been cut away to 
 a considerable depth, which yet continued to 
 thrive and bear leaves and nuts. The timber 
 (if these live fagots of well-packed fibres can 
 be called timber) is of some value, being used 
 for rafters in sheds and cut into short lengths for 
 fences ; spears were formerly made of it. The 
 leaves are tunied to better account, being platted 
 into mats, shaped into baskets, and occasionally 
 manufactured into bonnets. The fibres of the 
 husks are twisted into ropes and lines of 
 various sizes, which are exceedingly strong. 
 The shell of the nut is converted into drinking- 
 cups, lamps, and other small vessels. The 
 water is a delicious beverage, always cool and 
 refreshing; those who have only tasted it in 
 England have no idea what a luxury it is be- 
 
G2 
 
 COASTING-TOUR ROUND HUAHINE ROCKING-STONE. 
 
 tween the tropics. The kernel, when scraped 
 out of the shell, is either eaten raw, or, being 
 squeezed through the fibres of the husk, yields a 
 pleasant and nutritious milk, which is some- 
 times mixed with arrow-root, and a kind of 
 pudding is compounded of both. The kernel 
 also produces the oil, now so abundantly made 
 here by a process formerly described in this 
 journal. Thus timber, fuel, mats, baskets, 
 ropes, drinking-vessels, a wholesome beverage, 
 good food, liquor-strainers, bonnets, oil, and 
 bowls for lamps, are produced from this conve- 
 nient tree ; which, with the bread-fruit, were 
 there no other sources of supply, would nearly 
 meet all the necessities of the people. 
 
 The natives distinguish the cocoa-nut by 
 various names, according to its various stages of 
 growth. When young and before the kernel is 
 formed, they call it orio ; when it has only a 
 thin jelly within it is called nina; when the 
 kernel becomes more palpable, nimaha ; when 
 harder still, omoto; when quite ripe, opaa ; 
 afterwards, when the whole interior is filled up 
 with a kernel, from which the young leaves 
 spring, it is called uto ; at this time the outside 
 turns brown, and it is from the fruit in this 
 state that the oil is drained. When the nuts 
 are intended for propagation they are hung, 
 being quite ripe, upon a tree. In about six 
 months a green leaf shoots out of one of the 
 three holes at the smaller end. The nut is 
 then put into the ground to the depth of the 
 shell with the sprout upwards, when from the 
 other two holes a pair of roots strike down- 
 ward, and the plant is nourished by the decay 
 of the nut till it can draw its entire sustenance 
 from the soil ; and such is its freedom of 
 growth that there is scarcely a spot, howe\er 
 otherwise barren and unpropitious to \ 
 tion, from which this stately plant will not 
 spring up, with its diadem of beauty and girdle 
 of fertility. In about six years it begins to 
 bear ; the fruit is nearly twelve months in com- 
 ing to perfection. Though the cocon-t; 
 to such amazing height, the natives climb them 
 with the facility of cats. This they do, some- 
 times, by what may be called walking up the 
 stems, the motion of the leg following that of 
 the hand; but more generally they effect their 
 purpose by fastening their legs together, about 
 twenty-four inches apart, with a rope; when, 
 placing a foot on each side of the tree, they 
 draw up their bodies by the action of their arms 
 without difficulty. 
 
 CHAFER XI. 
 
 Coasting-tour round Himhine Rocking-stone Hurricane 
 l.\ M.'ht Mahalm Harlx>ur Matara Seaside Meal 
 Native Savings Large Marae Converted Priest of 
 Oro Picture of a Party asleep Converted Shark - 
 worshipper A Shark-marae Accident-bird Value of 
 a Nail. 
 
 Dec. 26. ACCOMPANIED by Mr. Ellis and Mr. 
 
 liartf', and their servants, together with the 
 queen of Ilautia, several of the royal family, 
 and many people, we set off about noon to 
 make a tour of this island. The da\ was 
 favourable, and a gentle breeze wafted us out of 
 
 the harbour. As we sailed along the coast we 
 admired the mountain precipices starting up- 
 right from the beach, and the gradual slopes 
 beyond towering into wooded knolls or piked 
 pinnacles, that sharpened into vanishing points 
 amidst the immensity of heaven above. The 
 nether rocks were generally dark-coloured ; the, 
 strata diverse in dip and material ; in one 
 instance the layer appeared slaty and horizontal. 
 On the summit of a high cliff to the south 
 stands a huge rocking-stone, shaped like a 
 bishop's mitre, which moves to and fro on the 
 application of a very small force. Expanding 
 from their serpentine recesses between the in- 
 land mountains to the shore, valley after valley 
 saluted our view, and gladdened our hearts with 
 the exuberance of their vegetable riches, pro- 
 mising yea, producing day by day, inexhausti- 
 ble provisions for all that live around their pre- 
 cincts. At three o'clock we reached the island 
 of Papeorea, on the south-western extremity of 
 Huahine. This little spot, which seems but a 
 hillock amidst the sea, stands about si\ 
 above high-water mark, and is exquisitely 
 adorned with the trees common to the climate. 
 The rock is of the same black stone as prevails 
 throughout the adjacent islands, intersected 
 with breccia ; though in one part we discovered 
 a hard blue vein of basalt, in a contrary direc- 
 tion to the other strata, and nearly vertical. 
 This is divided into fragments of various shapes, 
 but all approaching to rude regularity of figure, 
 square, triangular, &c. In another place the 
 formation is very singular, one portion beini: 
 Lent and pointed like horns, and another 
 rounded like cylinders ; the exterior of this 
 stone is yellow, the interior slate-blue ; and all 
 these rocks are much impregnated with ferru- 
 ginous matter. We are not aware, In 
 that iron, or indeed any other metallic ore, has 
 been traced in any of these islands. 
 
 Having perambulated the whole of this petty 
 domain, won from the deep in some far distant 
 age, we dined and supped in one meal, had 
 family prayer in the Tahitian langu:t_ 
 made arrangements at an early hour to bivouac 
 for the night. Our company, including the 
 queen and her retinue (who met us here), con- 
 sisted of a hundred persons. Our four small 
 beds were put up in a native house, open at one 
 side. This we contrived to partition with sails 
 and blankets, and deemed ourselves very suffici- 
 ently sequestered in our tent-like chambers. 
 The people without found no difficulty, < 
 ently with their simple habits and few wants. 
 in | accommodating themselves on the ground, 
 partly under another shed, and partly in the 
 open air around it. We had not long composed 
 our little camp to rest when we were suddenly 
 assailed by a violent shower of rain, accompa- 
 nied with a tempestuous wind which had 
 nearly dislodged us all. The natives awoke im- 
 mediately ; those tinder the shed were driven 
 out by the crazy roof coming down in fragments. 
 though with no very heavy ruin, upon them. 
 The out-of-door sleepers, of course, were soou 
 roused by the pelting of the storm, and ran in 
 all directions to the trees and bushes for refuge. 
 
HURRICANE BY NIGHT MAHABU HARBOUR. 
 
 (53 
 
 A strange scene of confusion followed ; the hogs 
 were screaming, the goats bleating, and forcing 
 their way into our bedroom for shelter, from 
 whence it was not easy to repulse them ; men, 
 women, and children were hurrying to and fro, 
 and mingling their voices of surprise and con- 
 sternation. But the uproar soon subsided ; the 
 people, cowering under cover wherever they 
 could find it, presently resumed their character- 
 istic good humour, and, after talking and laugh- 
 ing for several hours while the turmoil ; of 
 elements continued, they gradually sunk with 
 the wind and the rain to rest. 
 
 Dec. 27. Though there were some showers 
 this morning, we got under way at an early 
 hour. East of the island on which we had 
 lodged Huahine presents a spacious harbour, 
 surrounded on the landward by hills and moun- 
 tains of indescribable beauty, and singularly 
 contrasted, yet richly harmonized. The slopes 
 are verdant to the water's edge ; while above, 
 height over height, clad in different-coloured 
 foliage, and ridge beyond ridge, grey and black, 
 and cragged, present successive scenes of land- 
 scape which pen cannot trace, nor pencil follow, 
 through their ever- varying, yet always pleasing, 
 combinations, as the lights and shadows change 
 upon their surface, or the beholder changes the 
 place whence he contemplates them. We sailed 
 nearly round this ample basin, which is about 
 three miles across, and of which the shores, 
 though irregularly winding, are as gracefully 
 curved as the convolutions of a shell. Making 
 our exit at the southern outlet, on our right lay 
 Papeorea, which we had lately quitted ; and on 
 the left Huahine-iti, or Huahine the less a 
 vision of enchantment to the eye. Nothing in 
 nature can exceed in picturesque unity of sub- 
 ject (if the phrase may be allowed) the spectacle 
 of one of these modern Hesperides, having its 
 mountains, woods, and waters, all lovely and 
 lighted with sunshine, reposing on the flood, 
 and doubling its image beneath : nor can any- 
 thing ideal exceed in romantic effect the bewil- 
 dering illusion produced by looking upon it 
 askance, with the head inclined downward, 
 when the reality and the reflection are so iden- 
 tified as to make both appear one an island 
 alone in the midst of a sea as deep as the firma- 
 ment or, as fancy might easily feign, an entire 
 little world (a satellite to this) invisibly sus- 
 pended " 'twixt upper, nether, and surrounding" 
 sky. This may be deemed puerile by the very 
 profound or the very superficial ; but the true 
 lover of nature must always have a boy's feel- 
 ings of delight in contemplating her beauty ; 
 nor can he forbear gazing at her occasionally, 
 under her peculiar aspects, with a boy's eye 
 not indeed rolling in the fine frenzy of the 
 poet's, but revelling in the deliciousness of pure 
 admiration and discovering, no matter whether 
 actual or imaginary, 
 
 " More tilings in heaven and earth 
 Than are dreamt of iu your philuxop/iy." 
 
 Opposite Papeorea a vast rock rises out of 
 the water with great majesty. This mass is 
 generally composed of alternate strata of basalt 
 and breccia. There is a remarkable vein, about 
 
 two feet in thickness, which runs aslant, and in 
 a contrary direction to all the rest. Strong 
 marks of the action of fire are visible on the 
 surface, and in one side we found a hole which 
 may have been a volcanic crater. Here and 
 there also there are strata of black stone, 
 which, when broken, has a pitchy appearance. 
 
 We next reached the harbour of Mahabu, on 
 the north-west side of Huahine-iti. There is 
 no passage between the coral-reefs into this 
 lagoon, which is of an oval shape, and of capa- 
 city to accommodate all the war-ships of Europe 
 with safe anchorage. Like the former bays 
 which we have visited, this is overlooked by 
 craggy cliffs, between which and the water 
 there is a breadth of fertile low land. In the 
 middle appears a single small coral-motu, with 
 a tuft of cocoa-nut trees waving upon its circlet 
 of rock. We landed at the head of the bay, 
 where a place of worship has been erected. 
 Near it stands an old native house which had 
 been cleaned and strewn with grass for our ac- 
 commodation. Here we put up our beds, and 
 after dining a raatira said he had a little speech 
 to say to us, if we would accompany him. We 
 went, and lo ! he presented each of us with a 
 hog. Other presents of fruit were brought to 
 us in the course of the day. In the evening 
 divine service was held in the adjacent chapel, 
 wherein about a hundred persons assembled. 
 This is a very rich district, and the produce 
 might well maintain ten thousand inhabitants 
 round the margin of the lagoon. The late 
 population have all removed to the Missionary 
 settlement at Fare, and only visit their old 
 neighbourhood occasionally, to gather the fruits 
 which the bounty of Providence causes to grow 
 here without their care or culture. 
 
 Dec. 28. We spent many hours in exploring 
 the valleys, declivities, and remoter elevations, 
 which everywhere presented similar objects for 
 curiosity in the productions of the soil, and for 
 admiration in the sections of sea and land 
 scenery, on which the sight was never weary of 
 dwelling, or rather roving from point to point ; 
 finding at once action and repose in expatiating 
 as freely as the wind that breathed over the 
 mountains and rippled the ocean. 
 
 In the afternoon we proceeded on our cruise, 
 keeping within the reefs, which are two miles 
 from the shore, and afford perfect security from 
 the breakers on the side of the sea. A high 
 rock, projecting from the flank of one of the 
 mountains, was pointed out to us, over the brow 
 of which a man once leaped, to escape the spear 
 of his pursuer, from whom he had stolen some 
 property. Happily the fugitive alighted on a 
 quantity of loose earth, which had been thrown 
 up only the day before, and missed being dashed 
 to pieces on the spot. We soon afterwards 
 passed by one of the two districts whose in- 
 habitants declined to emigrate to the Missionary 
 settlement, to be nearer the means of Christian 
 instruction, of which, at that time, they thought 
 more lightly than the bulk of their countrymen. 
 They come, however, occasionally to Fare to 
 hear the gospel, and their teachers in turn visit 
 them when opportunity offers. In the evening 
 
SEA-SIDE MEAL NATIVE SAYINGS LARGE MARAE. 
 
 we landed as M:it;ir:i. where there is a small 
 native village and a chapel. A beautiful motu 
 stretches across the mouth of the bay here, and 
 presents a complete specimen of a coral-island, 
 where the rude structure of thousands of mil- 
 lions of minute worms, growing up, through 
 successive ages, into a barren reef, has gradually 
 been invested with soil, and now is as " a field 
 which the Lord hath blessed." Our sleeping 
 quarters had been comfortably arranged, and 
 we passed a quiet night, in a large native dwell- 
 ing, divided into three apartments, of which we 
 occupied one end; the queen, with her attend- 
 ants, the other; and the middle space served 
 for a common eating-room. 
 
 Dec. 29. After an early breakfast and family 
 prayer, we visited the aforementioned motu. 
 A beach, composed of fragments of shells and 
 other marine exuviic, surrounds the island, 
 which is nearly two miles in circumference. The 
 coral-rocks themselves incorrigibly sterile, but 
 o\er which nature has spread prolific tillage 
 nt several points jut out into the sea, and again 
 disappear in the sand. Even in the centre and 
 highest part of this new-made land coral is 
 everywhere visible, as the substratum of the 
 whole. In addition to the trees and plants 
 commonly found on such spots, we collected 
 eleven which were new to us. 
 
 Having caught a sufficient number of fishes, 
 we ordered them to be dressed. Immediately 
 a fire was kindled on the beach, and the repast 
 was ser\ed up in s-> primithe a st\le that we 
 could not. liut lie reminded of that scene, by tin- 
 lake of Tiberias, where the risen Redeemer 
 showed himself to his disciples, and conde- 
 scended to sit down with them by "a fire of 
 coals" on the shore, and lish laid thereon, and 
 bread, of w Inch He gave to them with his own 
 hands, as He was wont to do, in the character 
 of their Lord and Master, before his passion. 
 Ah ! who can remembi r the sequel for " when 
 they had dined, Jesus saith to Simon Peter, 
 Son of Jonas, lovest thou met" without 
 " being grieved," less because of his thrice-re- 
 peated question, than because he who has imt 
 experienced a Saviour's love his pardoning 
 love is most sensible how imperfectly he can 
 answer, " Lord, Thou knowest all things; Thou 
 knowest that I lo\e Thee." 
 
 On this occasion, a trilling circumstance oc- 
 curred which is only worth mentioning as 
 exemplifying the style of conversation in this 
 remote corner of the world, where great plain- 
 ness of speech is quite consistent with good 
 manners. Mr. Uarff, not having observed the 
 lire which had been lighted, asked a native 
 where it was. " You are a strange-eyed man," 
 was the reply that he recei\cd, and this was gi\en 
 in perfect good humour, meaning no more than 
 that if you will use your eyes you cannot help 
 seeing it before your face. Such abrupt and 
 significant answers are common among these 
 people, who, though loquacious, strive to make 
 their remarks in the fewest possible words ; 
 and often both matter and manner an- equally 
 pithy. One e\ening the queen was amusing 
 herself with peeping through a small opera- 
 
 glass belonging to one of our party. Having 
 never seen anything of the kind before, she- 
 was delighted with trying its powers, as she 
 imagined, first on one and then on another of 
 the company, seated in different and di-tant 
 parts of the spacious room. At length she ex- 
 claimed, " This is a short way of getting at a 
 person !" The surprise of children in such a 
 case is the reverse ; they think the -lass brings 
 the objects near to themselves ; she seemed to 
 imagine that it carried her to the object. 
 
 Towards evening we walked to the great 
 marae of Oro, which is within a mile of this 
 bay. The queen and her friends accompanied 
 us. Near " the high place" of this " abomi- 
 nation" of Huahine we called upon an aged 
 man, who was the last priest here at the mur- 
 derous shrine of the god of war. In youth la- 
 must have been uncommonly large and power- 
 ful. His face was singularly tatooed, A\ Inch is 
 in itself remarkable (indeed only the second 
 instance that we have seen), as the >ainest 
 among the one sex, and the iiercest of tin- 
 other, were not wont thus either to adorn or 
 disfigure their countenances. And herein the.-e 
 Pacific islanders differed entirely from other 
 savages who practise the same fanciful method 
 of marking themselves. The North American 
 Indians, the New Zealanders, &c., glory in Un- 
 characteristic imagery which they depict on 
 their foreheads, cheeks, and chins," by tl 
 barous species of embroidery. The grey hair 
 of the patriarch before us was cut short. 
 one thin lock, which was allowed to grow lonir, 
 behind. Hut what gave peculiar interest to his 
 person and character was the circumstance of 
 his being blind, the occasion of his 1.1 1 
 and its effect upon his future life. The dark 
 idolater had long withstood the gospel, and 
 refused to acknowledge the sanctity of the Sab- 
 bath, after the former was received, and the 
 latter commanded by authority to be ch- 
 in these islands. One Sabbath morning, in 
 contempt of the day, he went out to work in 
 his garden. On returning to his] house, he be- 
 came blind in a moment. Dreadfully alarmed, 
 he cried out, " I am a dead man ! a <h;i,: 
 In jMt/tc ou, ua poke an .'" His neighbours, 
 in amazement, came running to his assi-- 
 but vain was human help; an invisible hand 
 was upon him, and had closed up his eyes for 
 cM'i- from seeing the sun. But the same hand, 
 we may believe, opened the eyes of his under- 
 standing by the stroke which destroyed the 
 light of the body ; he immediately concluded 
 that this atHiction was a judgment upon him 
 for disobeying (probably against strong, though 
 long-resisted, internal convictions) the gospel 
 of our Lord Jesus Christ. His countrymen 
 were under the same impression. lie humbled 
 himself in the dust, mourned over his sins, con- 
 fessed them, abjured idolatry, and embraced 
 that religion which had already triumphed <>\er 
 almost every other heart in the island except 
 his own. To this day he has continued in that 
 renovated state of mind, and his conduct has 
 been conformable to his profession. 
 
 After some conversation with him respecting 
 
CONVERTED NATIVE PRIEST ORO'S IMAGE BURNT. 
 
 (if) 
 
 what he had been, and what he is now, we in- 
 formed him whither we were going; he then 
 got up, and accompanied us, finding his way 
 without difficulty by the aid of a long stick. 
 We were soon at the marae. This measured a 
 hundred and forty-six feet in length, by eighteen 
 in width, and was in a tolerably complete state, 
 
 I only a few of the great stones having been dis- 
 placed. It is built of large flags of coral-rock, 
 placed upon their edges in the ground, and 
 forming an enclosure, which is filled up with 
 earth. On this a second smaller enclosure had 
 been raised in the same manner, leaving a plat- 
 form all around, four feet wide. Within this 
 upper story were 'interred the bones of the 
 miserable victims, human and brute, which 
 from time to time had been sacrificed to the 
 demon-idol worshipped here. One of the large 
 flag-stones measured nine feet by ten. The 
 labour of heaving such blocks from the bottom 
 of the sea, bringing them so far, and building 
 them up here, must have been immense. 
 
 Fare no Oro, or Oro's house, stood behind 
 this long range of earth and stones, about the 
 middle of the farther wall. It was a small 
 structure, only eight feet long by six in width. 
 About three yards beyond, and upon the 
 ground, lay a flat stone, twelve or fourteen 
 inches square, on which the priest of Oro for- 
 merly was accustomed to stand, when he of- 
 fered his prayers and practised his enchant- 
 ments. Close to this, rising behind it, was 
 another stone, sufficiently broad and elevated 
 to form a seat for him when weary, or when 
 the duty of his office required him to assume 
 the posture of repose. 
 
 Without due consideration, we requested the 
 old priest to take his stand, and show us in 
 what manner he prayed to Oro, and delivered 
 .ric|.-s to the people. With undisguised re- 
 luctance he consented, and stepped upon the 
 
 | accur-'-d spot, from which he had so ofien, in 
 times past, acted the part both of the deceiver 
 and the deceived. But when he was about to 
 repeat one of the prayers to Oro as though he 
 had come within the grasp of the pouer of 
 darkness, ; ,inl felt himself in the act of apostncy 
 " fear came upon him, and trembling, that 
 made all his bones to shake ;" and down from 
 his station he leaped with precipitancy, crying 
 out, " 1 dan- not do it! I dare not do it!" He 
 was so troubled that he left the scene as hastily 
 as he could, dreading a second judgment, and de- 
 claring that, if he did such a thing lie should die 
 immediately. We were much affected, and 
 regretted having inadvertently brought him into 
 such terror and peril, while'we could not but 
 admire his conscientiousness. At the further 
 end of this liuire mass stood a small marae, 
 t \vel\e feet by seven, long and broad. This, 
 we were told, had been built on the occasion of 
 making an arii ; that is, adopting into the royal 
 family a person of inferior birth. Ceremonies 
 were then observed, which the worst words in 
 our language would be abused in describing. 
 
 When the house of Oro bad been erected, 
 several human sacrifices were slain, and every 
 pillar that supported the roof was, as it, were, 
 
 planted in the body of such a victim, having 
 been driven, like a stake, through it into the 
 ground. There had been fourteen grand occa- 
 sions, when human sacrifices had been thus 
 offered, within the remembrance of the old 
 priest. As he enumerated these, he took a 
 piece of taro-leaf in his hand, a shred of which 
 he tore off and threw upon the ground, to mark 
 each when he mentioned it in order. 
 
 In surveying this wreck of Satan's throne, 
 melancholy retrospection carried our spirits 
 through the dark ages which had passed over 
 these lands, while they were full of the habita- 
 tions of cruelty and wickedness ; when one 
 generation went, and another came, without 
 change, or hope, or possibility of deliverance, 
 till the messengers of mercy, with their lives in 
 their hand, and the love of Christ and the souls 
 for whom He died in their hearts, appeared 
 upon their shores to preach liberty to the cap- 
 tives, and the opening of the prison-doors to 
 them that were bound. The idols, the temples, 
 the bloody rites, the detestable profligacy, the 
 gross ignorance, the spiritual slavery, and the 
 personal abasement, of the people, have all dis- 
 appeared ; and, however imperfect yet, society 
 is advancing in genuine civilization; and, how- 
 ever deficient, still the church of God is grow- 
 ing in grace, and in tin; knowledge, practice, 
 and enjoyment, of pure and undefiled religion. 
 Those of the natives whose habits were formed 
 under the old atrocious system, in contemplat ing 
 the transformation, not in themselves only, but 
 in all things around them, scarcely know how 
 to reconcile the former and the present state of 
 things ; it is to them as though the one or the 
 other must be a dream ; yet by bitter remem- 
 brance and happy experience, " the wormwood 
 and the gall" not less certainly were their por- 
 tion once than " the milk and honey" are now. 
 In their prayers and discourses they love to 
 contrast, the two states. They compare the 
 present to peace, after long and murderous Avars 
 to an abundant fruit-harvest, after famine and 
 drought to undisturbed, refreshing sleep, after 
 days and nights of toil, and watching, and 
 dish-ess. 
 
 When the altars were overthrown, and the 
 idols burnt, the image of Oro, which made tins 
 place hideous, was also demanded by the re- 
 generators of their country, that execution 
 might, be done upon it. The old priest, seeing 
 his craft in danger, but determined to cleave to 
 the hope of reviving it till the last, hid his god 
 a shapeless log of timber in a cave among 
 the rocks. Hautia, however, was not to be 
 trifled with, nor could such a nuisance as the 
 pestilent stock, to which human beings had 
 been sacrificed, be permitted to exist any longer 
 on the face of the earth, lest the plague of idol- 
 atry should again break out among its reclaimed 
 followers. He insisted upon its being brought 
 forth, and committed to the flames, in the pre- 
 sence of the people who had but the day before 
 trembled and fallen down before it. This was 
 done; but still the priest himself held to the 
 superstition of his fathers, tbon'.'li be bad seen 
 their god consumed to ashes by mortal man 
 
r.i; 
 
 PICTURE OF A PARTY ASLEEP A SHARK -MARAE. 
 
 with impuriity ; and he ceased not to spurn at 
 the religion of the strangers till the signal event 
 already mentioned, when blindness fell upon 
 his outward, and light upon his inward, vision. 
 One of the largest stones of the dilapidated 
 marae was taken away, a few weeks ago, to 
 Fare, and there placed over the grave of the 
 young heir to the kingdom of these islands, the 
 son of Mahine, formerly mentioned. Near this 
 marae there are two stones, one upright, the 
 other prostrate, the only remains of a very an- 
 cient structure of a similar kind. They are 
 both basaltic fragments, of irregular angular 
 shape ; but whence they were brought we could 
 not learn. To these dumb blocks divine ho- 
 nours were accustomed to be paid, and prayers 
 offered, by the fanatic priests and the deluded 
 multitude. 
 
 The night-quarters, in the house where our 
 servants, and those who accompanied us of 
 their own accord, were lodged, presented a 
 singularly grotesque spectacle after they were 
 all laid down to sleep. Each spread his mat 
 on the ground, and threw himself upon it, ap- 
 parently at random, but perfectly at ease; heads 
 and feet lying in all directions. Some made 
 pillows of their mats, some made pillows <>f 
 their neighbours, and some did without pillows 
 at all. If it had rained down sleepers through 
 the roof upon the floor, they could hardly have 
 fallen more unpreineditatcdiy, or been more 
 whimsically disposed ; yet all slept soundly, as 
 though, having nothing to do but to sleep, each 
 was making the best use of his time ; their 
 coverings were the native mantles which they 
 wore in the day ; yet, ludicrous as the spectacle 
 at first view appeared, there was not the slight- 
 est indecorum observable among the group. 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds has remarked that all the 
 attitudes of children are graceful, because they 
 are unconstrained ; the same may be ->aid of 
 the unconscious acts and positions, sleeping or 
 waking, of people like these, who follow simple 
 instinct in whatever they do. Nature herself 
 might have put her children to bed here, having 
 given them such pliancy of limbs and healthi- 
 ness of frame, that, as they sunk down, so 
 they lay, in sweet, untroubled, and profound 
 repose. 
 
 Dec. 30. Being Lord's day, the usual services, 
 in Tahitian and English, were duly performed 
 and devoutly attended. At our evening prayers 
 we could not but observe how dili'erently'the 
 very ground on which we were kneeling, sing- 
 ing, and ollering supplications at a throne of 
 grace, had been but lately occupied. Our house 
 stands upon part of a marae, which was dedi- 
 cated to the worship of the shark a fit repre- 
 sentative of him who is the prototype of all 
 idols the devourer, the destroyer! " This was 
 a family marae, and the owner, who had often 
 pra\ed and sacrificed hereto tin 1 most voracious 
 ot tilings that swim, was present with us at the 
 worship of the Father of all mercies. He in- 
 formed us that, according to the traditions of 
 his fathers, a horrible monster once worked its 
 way upwards through the solid -round. As it 
 approached the surface, the people were alarmed 
 
 at the convulsion of the earth beneath their 
 feet ; and while they were flying on all sides a 
 huge shark reared its head, and opened its jaws, 
 through the cleft soil on this very spot. In com- 
 memoration of so great a prodigy, the ai. 
 of our informant had built the marae, which 
 came into his possession by inheritance. 11< 
 had, however, desecrated the shrine, or rather 
 consecrated it to a better purpose, having con- 
 verted it into a dwelling for himself and his 
 family, now acknowledging the true God. 
 
 Sharks are numerous about this coast, and 
 they were formerly worshipped from fear ; in- 
 deed, the fear that hath torment was the mother 
 of devotion here, as it is invery other heathen 
 land. Large oblations were frequently offered to 
 them by the priests who served at their altars. 
 We are assured that numbers of these ravenous 
 animals were so far tamed in this bay that they 
 came regularly to the beach to be fed with fish 
 and pork, which were provided for them in 
 large quantities. This marae being situated 
 very near the lagoon, a shark once worked his 
 way through the sand, and took personal pos- 
 session of his temple, the water flowing in with 
 him; whereupon, the reservoir thus formed he- 
 ing properly dammed up, and from time Jo time 
 replenished, he luxuriated in his sanctuary, and 
 daily received his food from the devotees who 
 flocked thither. Whenever the natives, in their 
 canoes, encountered a shark at sea, they endea- 
 voured to propitiate him by throwing out some 
 of the fish which they might have caught ; and 
 such offerings were so acceptable to tlu-e di\i- 
 nitics that the latter would follow the ! 
 the shore, and gradually become familiar . 
 to wait till their portion was dealt forth to them. 
 Nevertheless the ungrateful sharks, bavin- a 
 god of their own " their belly" never failed 
 to sacrifice even their worshippers to that idol 
 when they could catch a Mi ay man, woman, or 
 chilil, in the \\atcr or on the beach, near enough 
 to be seized and carried into the i 
 
 Dec. 31. To-day we explored the neighbour- 
 hood of this luy. About a furlong from the 
 head of it is a cliff, nearly perpendicular, seven 
 hundred feet hi-h, according to our calculation, 
 and extending a quarter of a mile laterally. It 
 consists of one enormous m: black 
 
 chert. Many huge fragments lie at ti. 
 which are, for the most part, overrun with grass 
 and low shrubs. From the upper face of the 
 precipice itself spring scattered tufts of aito and 
 purau plants. We walked upwards of three 
 miles into the valley, from whence the inland 
 mountains tower away to an elevation which 
 gives the sense of toil to the eye that climbs 
 them, stage by stage, over thick forests and in- 
 terrupting crags, following their sinuosit; 
 marking their slopes, as they diminish in dis- 
 tance. One of these acclivities we ascended, 
 to visit a marae situated in a solitude of vtoods 
 and rocks which gave more than ordin;. 
 lemnity of horror to the idolatrous temple. 
 Here, 'again, sharks were the tutelary deities, 
 or rather the hostile fiends A\ho>e fury was 
 sought to be appeased by the superstiti' 
 vereuee paid to them. 'Several of tin-- 
 
A BIRD DIVINITY VALUE OF A NAIL LIZARD-GOD. 
 
 r,7 
 
 monsters were distinguished above the nameless 
 multitude that prowl for prey throughout the 
 boundless ocean. One, named Tuarikono, had 
 the pre-eminence, because he was a foreigner, 
 and came from the island of Maupiti. It is a 
 remarkable fact, that the natives here were al- 
 ways more prone to think highly of what was 
 brought from a strange country than what be- 
 longed to their own. A second was called Tea- 
 bua, a third Teariihioroa, a fourth Teareautnita, 
 &c. How many others were thus distinctly 
 recognised we could not ascertain. Indeed, 
 almost every family had its particular shark, to 
 which it vowed and made oblations here, or at 
 other maraes. They always gave a name to 
 these savage creatures when they numbered 
 them among the gods, by some ^circumstance 
 connected Avith the fish itself, the place where 
 it appeared, its size, colour, &c. ; but all the 
 appellations were magnificent and sounding, it 
 being understood that the sharks would be of- 
 fended with paltry and vulgar ones. On this 
 spot the raatiras, or landowners, used to meet 
 to practise the sacred exercise of the bow and 
 arrow, which, being tabued, were never em- 
 ployed as weapons in war. 
 
 In the course; of our excursion this day we 
 visited aiiothrr marae, on the beach, larger than 
 either of the former, but learnt nothing parti- 
 cular in reference to its history. A white bird, 
 with a long blue bill, and web-footed, about 
 the size of a dove, was brought to us. The 
 natives call itpirai\ and this harmless creature 
 was also one of " the lords many, and gods 
 many," worshipped here. It was supposed to 
 preside o\er accidents, and, being often found 
 sitting in the broad-fruit trees, its protection 
 against falls in climbing them was sought. It 
 was believed that when this bird perceived any 
 one thus precipitated by an unlucky slip, it 
 would immediately fly beneath his body, as if to 
 rescue him before he reached the ground, or, at 
 least, lighten his descent. The chief who gave 
 us this curious information assured us that he 
 had proved it to be true by personal experience ; 
 for, on a certain occasion, when he was dis- 
 lodged from a bread-fruit tree, one of these 
 compassionate birds glanced under him so 
 closely as to touch his neck with the flapping of 
 its wings, and he sustained no injury, in con- 
 sequence fas he presumed) of this happy inter- 
 fercnee of one of the gods; whereupon he im- 
 mediately cut a lar^-e bunch of bananas, and 
 went and offered them to his deliverer at the 
 This day, in the course of our ramble, 
 we caught a vi vi (mantis), a giant of a grass- 
 hopper, which measured nearly five inches in 
 length. The body Avas green, the wings red. 
 
 We have been told that the first nail ever seen 
 in this island Avas taken from a boat at Raiatea. 
 It Avas a spike-nail, and brought hither by its 
 fortunate possessor as something of rare value. 
 And so it proved, for he made no small gain by 
 lending it out for hire, to canoe-builders, to 
 bore holes in the sides of their planks. After- 
 wards another lucky felloAV got hold of a nail, 
 and not knowing how such a thing came into 
 existence, he shrewdly conjectured that it must 
 
 haA r e been formed by a process of vegetation. 
 Wherefore, to propagate so valuable an exotic, 
 he planted his nail in the ground, but Avaited in 
 vain for the blade, the bud, the blossom, and 
 the fruit. This man is still living, and has not 
 heard the last of his speculation, being often re- 
 minded, to his no small chagrin, of the folly by 
 which he acquired at least one piece of knoAV- 
 ledge. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Lizard-God Motley Dinner Company Traditions 
 Dog-Marae Rock Scenery District of Hiro, God of 
 Thieves Puerile Prerogative of Areois Cascade 
 Fern-leaf Printing Memorial Trees planted Colum- 
 nar Rock Comfortless Flight of the Coasting Party- 
 Curious Species of Lobster Marae of Tane Idol- 
 Festival Extensive Lagoon Extraordinary AoaTree 
 Royal Burying-place Native Contributions to Mis- 
 sionary Society Gross Notions formerly entertained 
 concerning a Future State. 
 
 1822. Jan. 1. PROCEEDING on our circum- 
 navigation of the island, along the north-east 
 coast, AVC landed about tAVO miles from our last 
 quarters to visit a ravine Avhich has been opened, 
 by some unrecorded convulsion, to a great 
 depth through a solid rock of basalt and breccia. 
 This singular fissure is a quarter of a mile in 
 length, from tAvelve to fifteen feet wide near the 
 entrance, but narroAving to eight or nine towards 
 the upper end. A strange tradition existed 
 concerning this place : in a remote age a lizard 
 was born of a human mother, arid immediately 
 translated into a god Avhen it saAV the light. 
 Here Avas its retreat and its temple ; and here 
 divine honours have been paid to the four- footed 
 reptiles of that species ever since. From thence 
 Ave Avalked along the beach, though it was hard 
 to pick our steps among the protruding rocks 
 and sharp prickly corals that interrupted our 
 path in many places. We rested at a native 
 house whither the queen and her retinue had 
 gone last night, and where they had noAV pre- 
 pared a sumptuous entertainment, of the usual 
 country viands, for us and our attendants and all 
 that cliose to partake of it. The house Avas a 
 miserable shed, though spacious, the roof being 
 rent, into skylights and the Avails into breaches. 
 The dinner-party was more numerous and 
 hearty than either select or congenial the 
 queeu and her friends, ourselves and our ser- 
 \ants, with sundry hangers-on of the natives, 
 also a rabble of dogs, cats, hogs, and foAvls, 
 eagerly and unceremoniously putting in their 
 claims for a share of the feast. Good humour, 
 hoAvever, prevailed, and there Avas abundant 
 fare both for man, and beast, and winged fowl. 
 In addition to our portion of this social meal 
 AVC each received a present of a live hog. 
 
 Near at hand was the ruin of a marae, out 
 of Avhich AVC picked several human skulls, being 
 those of victims who had beenhere offered toOro. 
 An intelligent native of high rank, noAV a Chris- 
 tian, formerly an Areoi, told us, in ansAver to a 
 question, that the belief of these vagabonds (the 
 Areois) respecting a future state Avas this : The 
 spirits of themselves and their friends Avent 
 into some place far aAvay, Avhere they enjoyed 
 happiness in the tenth degree, or of the highest 
 
DOG-MARAE ROCK SCENERY. 
 
 kind. They lived at large, in the midst of an 
 immense plain, round which stood all the gods, 
 joining hands, with interlocked fingers, and 
 forming an impregnable protection ; while those 
 within the circle revelled in all manner of sen- 
 sual delights. "We have heard other traditions 
 on the same subject ; little dependence can be 
 placed on any as being universal ; one was be- 
 lieved here, and another there, and they had 
 only one common quality that of being equally 
 preposterous in mass and abominable in detail. 
 
 We afterwards took to our boat again, sailing 
 between the land and a coral islet, oversha- 
 dowed with trees, nearly two miles in length 
 and half a mile in breadth. At the further point 
 of this motu a scene of startling peculiarity 
 and grandeur burst upon our view. Immedi- 
 ately before us a vast conical mountain stood 
 up from the shore to the heavens, having on its 
 peak the faded crown of a perishing marae, 
 once held in profound veneration, having been 
 dedicated to the worship of the dog. On either 
 side of the straits, between Huahine and Hua- 
 hine-iti, craggy precipices crowd one upon the 
 back of another to the height of three thousand 
 feet. Over the top of one of these hangs a 
 huge rock, as though it were disrupted from its 
 seat and falling instantly upon the valley be- 
 neath. On the contrary shore gigantic masses 
 of the same character rear their weather-beaten 
 but immoveable ridges, as in defiance of earth- 
 quakes or storms, passively maintaining their 
 ground till they shall be crumbled into dust, 
 under the perpetual foot of time, on the very spot 
 where they were first fixed at the creation,left bare 
 by the retiring waters of the deluge, or heaved 
 from the bottom of the abyss by the volcanic 
 throes that gave birth to the islands of which 
 they are at once the ornaments and the stabi- 
 lity. These stupendous eminences are moul- 
 dered into many singular but not mis-shapen 
 forms, for grandeur and grace are distinguish- 
 able among all their variations ; while, through 
 tho thick verdure that generally arrays them, 
 break forth denuded crags, black, crimson, and 
 gray, and frequent fissures open into their re- 
 cesses, yet conceal what they disclose, their 
 borders being curiously curtained with foliage 
 that seems to live in the air as its element, and 
 scarcely to be indebted to the stone cliff, 
 whence it springs, either for nourishment or sup- 
 port. Even the perpendicular faces of the 
 rocks are often overgrown, in this genial cli- 
 mate, with rank and luxuriant vegetation. 
 
 Crossing over the district called Apoomatia, or 
 the hvle in the wind, the meaning of which we 
 have not been happy enough to learn, we took 
 up our quarters for the night at a preaching- 
 place, where there is a small chapel, and a house 
 for the use of the Missionaries when they come 
 hither. We had evening service in the former, 
 attended by about, fifty persons, and in the latter 
 we prepared our beds, but expected no sleep, 
 on account of the multitudes of mosquitoes. 
 The natives, however, to our 110 small surprise 
 and pleasure though it was hard to believe such 
 good news told us that the pestilent swarms 
 would retire at the close of day. And so they 
 
 did . this place has somehow become tabued 
 from their visits during the night, lor, every- 
 where else, the matins, the vespers, and the 
 vigils of these everlasting tormentors of flesh 
 and blood, are little less annoying than their 
 noon-day inflictions. 
 
 Near this privileged spot, and before we en- 
 joyed the unhoped-for comfort of undisturbed 
 repose, we visited a lofty mountain, rising just 
 behind our lodging. We estimated the eleva- 
 tion at three thousand feet. A spring spouts 
 from its hanks, at two-thirds of the way, which 
 the traveller finds very refreshing in the toil- 
 some ascent. From the summit, as from every 
 other, the views were sublime and enchanting 
 loveliness of colour and grace of form mark- 
 ing every feature of land and sea scenery ; com- 
 bined with amazing height of interior moun- 
 tains, winding irregularity of coast, smooth water 
 within the lagoons, rough breakers on the reefs 
 without, coral islands here and there ; all com- 
 passed with the infinity of sea beyond and of 
 sky above. Here is the extreme verge of 
 Huahine. An insulated rock projects from the 
 head of this mountain, presenting a panorama- 
 stand by day, and a point on which star after 
 star may be seen by night, from the depth bi-low, 
 lingering over its pinnacle, and cresting it with 
 their beams, as they pass in their courses. The 
 strata of this rock are irregular, and consist of 
 volcanic rubble and basaltes, both quite black. 
 We remarked a second spring trickling from 
 the under stratum of this pile, notwithstanding 
 its great elevation. The same plants were also 
 found in this superior region as on the lower 
 slopes. The cotton-plant was abundant, and 
 an uncommon kind of stonecrop. But the 
 most curious was a species of mimosa, or sensi- 
 tive plant, with a white blossom, like that of the 
 pea, but very minute. It rises to the height of 
 fourteen inches, and is called by the natives 
 hora. The sweet-scented grass, formerly men- 
 tioned, grows exuberantly here, and is now in 
 full blow and fragrance. Ferns and reeds also 
 flourish in every rn-uce and hollow. The 
 structure of the middle part of this mountain, 
 so far as the soil was laid bare, is the same red 
 loam which is traced everywhere in the hiu'h 
 lands here, and which appears to be decomposed 
 lava, containing many fragments of honey- 
 combed stones of the same colour. This is a 
 royal domain, and formerly was a favourite 
 haunt of those human harpies, the Areois, in 
 whose character and habits all that is mo^t 
 loathsome " earthly, sensual, devilish" was 
 combined. The low land between the beach 
 and the foot of the mountains is little more than 
 a hundred yards in length, but exceedingly fer- 
 tile. Towards the south, however, it expands 
 gradually into a spacious and beautiful valley 
 a lap into which the horn of plenty has been 
 unsparingly poured. 
 
 Auna, who was formerly one of his most 
 zealous and favoured votaries, informs us that 
 Hiro, the patron divinity of thieves, was devoutly 
 worshipped here and throughout these islands, 
 though he was a god of but recent creation. 
 He is said to have been a native of Raiatea, and 
 
HIRO, GOD OF THIEVES PUERILE PREROGATIVE OF AREOIS. 
 
 (59 
 
 so far from being born an immortal that (if the 
 ambiguity may be allowed) he did not even die 
 one his skull having been preserved at Opoa, 
 in that island, and seen by persons now living 
 there, though it has recently disappeared with the 
 other relics of idolatry. This Hiro was so subtle 
 and audacious a robber that even the altars and 
 maraes of the gods were not safe from his sacri- 
 legious lingers. To his skill in. thieving were 
 added all those other accomplishments for 
 which heathen deities in all countries, from 
 Greece and Rome to Tahiti and Raiatea, have 
 been celebrated, lying, murder, debauchery, 
 &c. &c. Nor was he less famous for managing 
 a canoe, and playing the pirate by sea, than the 
 burglar and bandit on shore. After his death, 
 when enrolled among the gods for his atrocities, 
 he was reverenced even above Oro, to whom he 
 proved himself superior by throwing him down 
 and lying upon him. His skull, as already 
 mentioned, was deposited in a large marae, 
 which he had himself erected, and his hair was 
 put into the body of Oro's image and committed 
 to the flames at Maeoa. The devotees of this 
 idol were all persons of more than vulgar rank ; 
 our friend Auna, being of royal kindred, was 
 admitted to that honour. Indeed, it was not to 
 be expected, even in such a state of savage so- 
 ciety us then existed, that any except the great 
 should be permitted to seize their neighbours' 
 goods with impunity. 
 
 The fraternity of Areois had some customs 
 and practices which they affected to reserve 
 to themselves, and which it would have been at 
 the peril of others to adopt. These were either 
 exceedingly gross or exceedingly puerile. Of 
 the latter we are assured that the following was 
 a favourite one, which it might have been death 
 for an uninitiated person to imitate. "When 
 they sate on the ground, or on a low stool, they 
 put one foot on the other thigh, and continued 
 givinir the toes a particular motion, while in 
 the one hand they waved at arms' length a fan, 
 made of the white hairs of a dog's tail, to drive 
 away the mosquitoes ; and in the other held a 
 nasal lluto, on which occasionally they made a 
 flourish of notes by blowing into it through one 
 of the nostrils. It is remarkable that this little 
 musical pipe is shaped like a German flute or 
 fife, and is sounded, as above, through a hole 
 in the side, near the upper end, which is 
 plugged. 
 
 Jan. 2. After we had each planted a cocoa- 
 nut in front of the house where we had lodged, 
 in memorial of our visit, we proceeded in the 
 boat to reconnoitre the straits which separate 
 the greater and lesser of the Huahines. The 
 opi'iiing between the two islands is about a mile 
 in width, with steep declivities on either shore. 
 This narrow channel expands into a capacious 
 basin and fine harbour, round which the most 
 romantic scenery extends along the coast, and 
 rises inland to the loftiest elevations. Indeed, 
 this is the character of all these scattered islands, 
 throughout the Southern Pacific, they are 
 mountains in the midst of the sea, whether seen 
 from afar or at hand ; from afar, nothing more 
 exquisite in aerial perspective can be imagined 
 
 than their slim and unsubstantial forms first 
 peering above the horizon, but gradually grow- 
 ing in bulk, in clearness, and in beauty, on 
 approaching them; till, at hand, the richest 
 colouring and the most harmonious combinations 
 of the contrasted elements of loveliness and 
 magnificence that constitute picturesque land- 
 scape are found, in a degree of diversity at once 
 inexhaustible, and unexhausting to the eye, the 
 imagination, the intelligence, and even the 
 heart of the beholder associated, as these 
 "fortunate islands" now are, with all the 
 "blessings" which the dying Jacob prayed 
 might be the portion of his beloved Joseph 
 "blessings of the heaven above, blessings of the 
 deep that lieth under, blessings of the breasts 
 and of the womb ; blessings * * * * *" 
 which "have prevailed above the blessings of 
 (their) progenitors unto the utmost bound of 
 the everlasting hills." Gen. xlix. 25, 26. How 
 literally, how locally, how spiritually, these have 
 been verified in reference to Tahiti, Huahine, 
 and their adjacencies, must be manifest to every 
 one who has heard or read what God hath 
 wrought for them, by the gospel of his Son, 
 Avithin the last ten years : how much more evi- 
 dent must it be to us, whose eyes have seen all 
 these things, and whose hearts have thrilled 
 with delight at the contemplation of so mucb 
 bliss, where so much misery lately reigned ! 
 Here, truly, " where sin hath abounded, grace 
 doth much more abound." So be it, till the 
 end of days ! 
 
 The queen was in the boat with us as we 
 sailed into this harbour, and, part of the district 
 belonging to her, we determined to rest a few 
 hours for refreshment. While dinner was pre- 
 paring on shore, we proceeded along the coast 
 towards the western side of the bay to examine 
 the site of a cascade, whose waters we had for 
 some time observed flowing down a steep chan- 
 nel. When we had approached it at the nearest 
 point, the stream appeared to fall from the 
 height of little more than a hundred feet ; but 
 what much more powerfully arrested our curio- 
 sity was the columnar formation of the face of 
 the rock over a section of which the water Avas 
 precipitated. We landed, and were detained a 
 considerable time by a heavy shower of rain. 
 We gathered some small oysters, of a very deli- 
 cate flavour, on the beach here ; they were at- 
 tached to the stones and trees which were at 
 the edge of the water. In ascending the moun- 
 tain we experienced great difficulty on account 
 of the steepness and slipperiness of the ground ; 
 the latter inconvenience being much increased 
 by the recent shower, which had saturated the 
 herbage and made the clay (a red loam) like 
 mortar under our feet. The sides of this emi- 
 nence were overrun with forests of tall fern and 
 dwarf ito-shrubs. When we reached the top, 
 which may be calculated at two thousand feet, 
 we had to descend into a glen beyond, where 
 the stream that supplies the fall has its source. 
 The spring is strong and sallies out of the earth 
 at all times abundantly, but in consequence of 
 the late rains it was unusually swollen and vi- 
 gorous when we were there. The water thus 
 
70 
 
 FERN-LEAF PRINTING COLUMNAR ROCK. 
 
 projected pours at once over the verge of a pre- 
 cipice of chert-stone, to look over which makes 
 the head swim and the nerves instinctively 
 recoil with horror, the abyss being so profound, 
 when contemplated from this point, that the 
 whole height of the mountain itself seems to be 
 the leap of the cataract from its summit to the 
 sea. The actual fall we ascertained to be 
 three hundred and fifty feet. Of course, hi its 
 headlong career, the rounded volume, that rolls 
 over the verge like molten crystal, expands into 
 azure sheets, or darts in silver streams 011 its 
 middle passage, tumbles into foam a little lower, 
 and resolves into spray towards the bottom, so 
 widely scattered that a bath may be taken under 
 the atfusion without any inconvenience. The 
 face of the crags down which it rushes, and 
 leaps, and sparkles in the sun-beams, being 
 quite black, gives intensity of brilliance to the 
 many-coloured waters, under all their changes 
 of form, from the torrent above to the shower of 
 dewdrops below. Here we gathered specimens 
 of the elegant small ferns, with which the native 
 women impress figures, in divers colours, upon 
 their cloth, literally a method of print hut, 
 which is but one remove below the boasted 
 invention of the Chinese by means of engraved 
 blocks, before the art was discovered in Europe. 
 It is true that the delicate patterns of leaves and 
 flowers, taken from living plants, upon their 
 apparel, may be said to teach these ingenious 
 females only so many letters of the alphabet of 
 nature; yet, though incapable of instructing 
 them in anything else, they do always remind 
 them of some of her most exquisite productions, 
 and may often revive in recollection the places 
 where such are to be found, as well as the cir- 
 cumstances under which particular specimens 
 were gathered upon the spot the weather, the 
 company, the pleasures, or the disappointments 
 of the day on which they were sought. Here 
 each of us left a memorial of our visit, by plant- 
 ing a cocoa-nut ; and though the future trees 
 may not, indeed cannot, tell "the story of their 
 birth," to those who sit under their shadow, 
 and find their fruit sweet to their taste, yet to 
 ourselves they will be mnemonics of the mind ; 
 and, when in distant regions we picture the 
 scenery of this sequestered spot, we shall add to 
 the beautiful objects which we saw here the 
 images of those which we left, though but in 
 their germs ; and these will be endeared by the 
 thought that they are our representatives, flour- 
 ishing and fulfilling in solitude the purposes 
 for which the Lord God caused them to grow 
 out of the ground. Would that ire were ever 
 doing the same, in our emigrations ! Mr. Ellis 
 and Mr. Barff planted two on the one side of the 
 stream, and we (the Deputation) two on the other. 
 But, as we have intimated, it was the colum- 
 nar structure of the face of the rock itself that 
 excited our most curious attention. The stone 
 is basalt, but differing in some respects from the 
 singular specimen of the latter in Matavai valley. 
 The columns here are generally large ; in form 
 a great part are pentagonal, in a lew instances 
 they are only quadrate ; some again approach to 
 the triangle, while others are nearly hexagons. 
 
 One of them measured four feet four inches. 
 Those of the four-sided pillars varied from a 
 foot and a half to thirty inches. The same 
 shafts also differ often in diameter, in their se- 
 veral parts, as much as they do from each other. 
 The divisions of the pentagons and the hexagons 
 are also much at variance ; a side, in some cases, 
 being not more than an inch or two, in others 
 upwards of a foot, wide. The whole colonnade 
 declines from the perpendicular towards the 
 east, at an angle of seventy-five degrees with 
 the horizon. The height of this naked front of 
 rock is three hundred and fifty feet, and the 
 length a quarter of a mile. Hut, from small 
 denuded patches on other parts of the mountain, 
 where similar phenomena are discernible, it is 
 probable that the whole mass is of tli> 
 formation. The lower ex|remities of many of 
 the columns, near the water-fall, having hern 
 broken off, the stumps above jut out and show 
 their respective shapes, \\henwet the stones 
 are deep black, but when dry a light blue, ex- 
 cee.lingly agreeable to the eye. 
 
 Reluctantly descending from this secluded 
 spot, so interesting**to the traveller in search 
 of rarities, and the philosopher in quest of geo- 
 logical data, we arrived at our boat. It AS as 
 then near six o'clock in the evening. We had 
 previously heard distant thunder, and now, in 
 the course of a few minutes, v\ < \\ ere th: 
 drenched with rain, from which neither um- 
 brellas nor wrapping could protect us. The 
 torrents continued to fall till we hail reached 
 our party on shore. Here, ha\ing changed 
 our clothes and dined, the house heir .. 
 dirty and uncomfortable, we resolved to ; 
 to our next station at the foot of the 8 
 Mountain, called Mow, about four miles off. 
 We accordingly set out for the desired ha\en 
 some time after sunset, the glimpses of the moon 
 affording us precarious but welcome assistance 
 in exploring our way. Incessant lightnings 
 and the perturbed state of the clouds, 
 while, excited apprehensions which were soon 
 realized. On our passage the utmost caution 
 was requisite in steering the boat, the 
 the distance of two miles from the shore, being 
 so covered with coral-rocks and their spiky 
 ramifications, as, in many places, to be unnavi- 
 gable, and in all very shallow; hence we wen-, 
 every few minutes, aground and afloat alter- 
 nately ; nor was this to be wondered at, for 
 our boat, having onboard, in all, -ixtv ] 
 was much too heavily laden for such a perilous 
 cruise, especially after nightfall, when the depths 
 and shoals could not be distinguished. Thus, 
 when we struck upon the reef, all the native 
 men were obliged to jump out into the water 
 to lighten the vessel and heave her over the ob- 
 struction. But they were invariably cheerful, 
 and worked with all their might, so 'that by tits 
 and starts, as it were, we at length landed at 
 the destined point. Before, however, we could 
 reach shelter, the long-threatening clouds poun <\ 
 down all their vengeance upon us, and v. 
 a second time soaked through all our apparel, 
 as though we had been dragged through t ; 
 Our female companions, with their infants, 
 
NIGHT-QUARTERSCURIOUS SPECIES OF LOBSTER. 
 
 71 
 
 suffered much from the pitiless pelting of this 
 storm, there being violent wind as well as rain, 
 while, in the midst of all, they were compelled 
 to be carried onshore upon the backs of our men, 
 and afterwards had to run the distance of a quar- 
 ter of a mile before they could get under cover. 
 
 The place provided for our reception was a 
 laix'e chapel built in the native style, on pillars, 
 and open on all sides. Here, then, we were at 
 last threescore of us! comfortless enough, 
 but having nothing to do but to make the liest 
 we could of our quarters. It was midnight 
 when we landed : the lights in the place had 
 all been put out by those of our party who had 
 previously arrived there, and who, never expect- 
 ing that we would A'enture to follow them over 
 such a sea of sunken rocks and shallows, in the 
 dark, had retired to rest. With wet clothing, 
 wet bedding, and nothing ready to dry either, 
 we were loudly welcomed with 'idorunas (may 
 you be blessed !) of our friends, whose slumbers 
 we had disturbed. Presently, however, a tire 
 was kindled at one end of the chapel, and we 
 found ourselves in a noble place of worship, 
 open, indeed, on every side, to all the elements 
 in all their moods, but having a sound roof to 
 ward off some of the deluging rain at this time, 
 and in other respects affording plenty of room 
 for the accommodation of most of our clan. 
 Notwithstanding the noise, the bustle, and ap- 
 parent confusion, among so numerous and hete- 
 rogeneous a party, we composed ourselves for 
 rest without much difficulty, each in his own 
 way ; and, sooner than could have been ex- 
 pected, silence and general tranquillity prevailed 
 throughout the spacious and well-occupied tene- 
 ment. 
 
 While we were exploring the neighbourhood 
 of the cascade this day, some of the men, whom 
 we had left at the landing-place, caught two 
 vcr\ curious fishes of the lobster species. The 
 natiye name of this animal is Varoo. The 
 general form is that of the lobster ; the length 
 nine inches ; the body is covered with a delicate 
 shell, of which the jointed compartments, nine 
 in number, beside the tail-piece, admit of free- 
 dom of motion. Under the five central ones 
 there are fringes, like fins, and to that which lies 
 between these five and the tail are attached two 
 flappers on either side, projecting outward and 
 backward. Under each of these there is a strong, 
 bony, sharp-pointed weapon, with which the 
 creature can defend itself, and probably secure 
 its prey, by clasping the latter beneath its belly, 
 when the forks must pierce whatever comes 
 between them. These are said to bevenemous, 
 and the natives are much afraid of being 
 wounded by them. To each of the three plates 
 of the shell, next the head, arc fitted two legs, 
 one on either side. The head is an inch and 
 three quarters long, and narrowing in width 
 from an inch and a half at the hinder part, to 
 three-quarters of an inch at the frontage. 
 Towards the middle are the eyes, the rnouth, 
 and -four antennae, with a kind of fin on each 
 sid'-. But the most singular and novel charac- 
 teristics of this animal are its large claws, which 
 grow from the upper part of the body and the 
 
 neck. These have four joints each, that at 
 the extremity being a fine and almost transpa- 
 rent bone, Avith ten sharp rays shooting out- 
 wards, longer and longer, and stronger also in 
 proportion, to the outermost. This ten-toothed 
 appendage closes doAVii into a corresponding 
 groove, or slit, of the inner joint, which exactly 
 fits it as a sheath the Avhole resembling a 
 common pocket-comb that shuts into a case. 
 The mouth and adjacent organs are like those 
 of the lobster. The colour, Avheii alive, is pale 
 yellow Avith lilac and black spots. This also was 
 one of the divinities of these benighted regions, 
 where men "changed the glory of the uncor- 
 ruptible God into an image, made like to cor- 
 ruptible man, and to the birds, and to four-footed 
 beasts, arid to creeping things." 
 
 Jan. 3. We are IIOAV in the district of Aruri, 
 a royal domain, where parties of pleasure, or 
 for Avar, Avere Avont to assemble. The land being 
 exceedingly fertile, abundant food was always 
 to be found for such occasions, Avhen the con- 
 sumption was great indeed. The chapel, built 
 on the site of a demolished niarae, is eighty feet 
 long by thirty \vide. It has a pulpit, but no 
 fixed benches nor pews, and Avas therefore 
 better suited, in some respects, for our noctur- 
 nal encampment than if it had been more com- 
 pletely furnished. Near it stands a large house, 
 tAvice as spacious as the chapel, formerly the 
 haunt of the Areois, a " stye of Epicurus' herd," 
 rendered abhorrent to every pure feeling by the 
 bloody and obscene rites of those " unclean spi- 
 rits" that once possessed it. Within this no longer 
 desecrated enclosure, a number of our fellow- 
 travellers had been lodged ; and we Avere awak- 
 ened, soon after daybreak, by the songs of 
 Zion, Avhich they were singing at their morning 
 worship ; and sAveeter minstrelsy we never 
 heard. A few years ago our brethren, the Mis- 
 sionary servants of Jehovah, dwelt here like 
 men in exile, if not in captivity ; and Avhen the 
 heathen mocked them, and required of them 
 mirth, saying, ' Sing us one of the songs of 
 Zion !" they might have indeed replied, in bitter- 
 ness of spirit, " HOAV shall Ave sing the Lord's 
 song in a strange land 1" 
 
 There are various other houses in this district ; 
 but feAV are tenanted, the former inhabitants 
 having removed to the Missionary settlement, 
 and only visiting their lands here occasionally. 
 The beach is IOAV and marshy ; three extensive 
 valleys open upon it from the interior. On the 
 Avest stands the Sacred Mountain, rising in 
 great majesty, and almost perpendicularly, on 
 every side ; hence the summit cannot be reached, 
 even by the natives, in Avet weather. Ito-trees 
 run all the Avay up its steep declivities, and 
 flourish superbly on the top, Avhich is broad and 
 flat. Some crags jut out on the south side. In 
 times of Avar this Avas a stronghold to Avhich the 
 vanquished fled, and Avhere they could not be 
 successfully assailed ; for, Avhen once they had 
 ascended the precipices, they could hurl doAVii 
 stones, like thunderbolts, upon their pursuers 
 beloAV, and throAV back their besiegers them- 
 selves, like stones, Avhenever they attempted 
 to scale those impregnable ramparts. On this 
 
MARAE OF TAKE IDOL FESTIVAL. 
 
 proud eminence stood a marae devoted to the 
 worship of the dog. 
 
 From the west to the south are seen vast 
 ranges of hills, with sunny valleys, or dark 
 ravines, intersecting ; the flanks of those are 
 generally clad with verdure, though often em- 
 bossed with towering rocks or overhanging crags. 
 Between the south and east are the straits 
 through which we sailed; and there we distin- 
 guished the termination of the motu, and the 
 commencement of a further range of low islands, 
 to the extent of ten miles, a very narrow line 
 of sea separating between them and the main 
 land. An opening into the broad ocean beyond, 
 a mile in width, with a reef over which the surf 
 continually breaks, divides this chain into two 
 parts, of which each motu is a link. The rain 
 continued to fall heavily all this day, so that we 
 could scarcely leave our abode. At night the 
 storm came down with hitherto unprecedented 
 violence, and we seemed to be in the midst of 
 a land-flood, so vehemently did the storm 
 beat and the winds blow about our frail yet 
 stable tenement. 
 
 Jan. 4. The weather not permitting us to 
 resume our journey, we made an excursion to 
 the neighbouring motu, to visit the marae of 
 Tane, the chief god of Huahine in the age of 
 idolatry. It stands about a hundred yards from 
 the shore, embosomed among trees of many 
 kinds, which wholly obscure the edifice till the 
 spectator arrives upon the spot. Like most 
 erections of the kind, it consists of two stories, 
 of oblong shape ; the lower, a hundred and 
 twenty-four feet by sixteen, and the upper 
 diminished proportionately, with a small wing 
 at the back. The basement is about ten feet 
 in height, and fronted with coral blocks, placed 
 on their edges, some of which are as high as the 
 story itself; these form the walls of an enclo- 
 sure, which is filled up with earth. The supe- 
 rior but smaller part is faced with coral, and 
 tilled \\ ith earth in like manner, but not more 
 than three feet high, having at each end an up- 
 right stone of twice that elevation. In the 
 centre of the principal front stands the bed of 
 Tane, a stone-framed pile, eighteen inches above 
 ground but twenty-four feet long by thirteen 
 wide ! Hard by is another and lesser enclosure, 
 not more than half the dimensions of Tane's 
 bed, yet large enough to hold all the gods beside 
 that belonged to this celebrated grove and tem- 
 ple. All these various structures were exceed- 
 ingly rude, but massy in materials and masonry. 
 Not a tool seems to be lifted up upon any of the 
 stones; the angles are ill formed, nor are the 
 walls in right lines ; but the whole pandemo- 
 nium is in rare preservation, scarcely a block 
 having being dislodged from its place. Trees 
 of centuries, judging from their venerable and 
 magniticient appearance, overshadow this " dark 
 place," with meeting arms, and foliage "star 
 proof." One of these ancients measured fifteen 
 yards in girth above the root. There is a tradi- 
 tion worthy of the superstition attached to this 
 shrine of folly. Tane often wanted to fly away 
 from his bed here, we presume but having a 
 very long tail like a boy's kite, that unlucky 
 
 appendage always caught in the boughs of this 
 sacred tree, by which he was instantly dragged 
 down to earth again. However, he has now 
 escaped escaped for ever though not by flight, 
 but by fire, having been burnt (in effigy, of 
 course) in his own house, called Taumatai, in 
 the year 1817, by those resolute image-destrov- 
 ers, Hautia and Tiramano, in their zeal for the 
 Lord of Hosts. The idol, a huge mis-shapen 
 block of wood, was about the height and bulk 
 of a very tall and stout man ; but, like many of 
 his fraternity here (" the gods made with 
 hands"), by the bungling of the artists, he was 
 one of those " whose heads do grow beneath 
 their shoulders," there being no separation of 
 those parts above ; whilst below, the uncouth 
 body terminated in a point (without legs) like 
 a cone inverted. It had likewise the usual 
 mockeries to represent eyes, ears, nose, and 
 mouth, and arms; but these were " most lame 
 and impotent conclusions" of such matters. Tin- 
 whole was covered with cinet, or platted twine, 
 made from the fibres of the cocoa-nut husk. 
 
 At this marae, once a-year, when the kings 
 and priests thought proper, there was what 
 might be called a national assembly and to-thai 
 held. Hither all the idols of Huahii 
 brought from their various temples to be clothed 
 with new dresses and ornaments. On this 
 occasion Tane was laid ou the middle of his 
 bed, having the gods of four districts placed on 
 his right hand, and the gods of four other dis- 
 tricts, into which the 'island was di\ided, on his 
 left. The chiefs stood in rows opposite to their 
 own divinities, and the priests round Tane, as 
 lord over them all. Various antic ceremonies 
 having been performed, and prayers offered, the 
 images were stripped of their old vestments. 
 Many of these wooden stocks, being hollow, 
 were filled with beautiful feathers and other 
 precious trinkets, which were also brought out, 
 and either renewed or replaced. None but men 
 were allowed to attend this anniversary. One 
 who had often been present assured us that, on 
 these occasions, a quantity of urn, for the pur- 
 pose of making a detestable intoxicating liquor, 
 nearly a< lari_'o as the marae itself in bulk, used to 
 be collected, besides provisions in an immense 
 quantity; eighty or a hundred hogs also Mere 
 slaughtered and roasted to entertain the mul- 
 titudes that were attracted hither by their devo- 
 tion to the gods and their love of good cheer. 
 The feast lasted three days, and was a season of 
 gluttony, drunkenness, and debauchery of every 
 kind. The priests themselves were often so in- 
 toxicated as to be unable to repeat their de^>- 
 tional addresses in the required posture ; they 
 would then grovel upon the ground, like swine, 
 muttering and hiccuping their incantations. 
 While this carnival lasted, no fire was allowed 
 to be lighted nor labour to be performed 
 throughout the island. At the close of the 
 ceremonies, a particular god called Maavai 
 was brought forth, stripped and gntted like the 
 rest, when immediately, they say, it began to 
 rain tremendously. This was the signal for the 
 removal of all the new-clad idols to their re- 
 spective maraes. No female was permitted to 
 
EXTENSIVE LAGOON ANCIENT BURIAL-PLACE OF KINGS. 
 
 approach one of these sacred edifices on pain of 
 death, which was instantly inflicted by whoever 
 Avitnessed the sacrilege. Nay, such was the 
 cruel and remorseless proscription of the sex 
 from religious rites or privileges, that, if the 
 wives or children of the priests themselves came 
 within a certain distance while they were en- 
 gaged in some particular services, they were 
 murdered on the spot, even by their husbands 
 and fathers, with the most desperate ferocity. 
 
 Jan. 5. We proceeded on our coasting cruise 
 to-day, sailing through a strait no wider than the 
 Thames, which divides the motu from the main 
 land. Though little more than a mile in length, 
 the passage presented us with most gratifying 
 prospects on either hand. On the right lay a 
 lovely low island overflowing (if we may use 
 the expression) with verdure to the water's 
 edge, and displaying a rich variety of the most 
 luxuriant vegetation, from the gigantic cocoa-nut 
 to the common grass, running riot in the ferti- 
 lity of its sea-formed soil. On our left the 
 Sacred Mountain towered up to the firmament, 
 of which, in some aspects, it seemed a pillar, so 
 stately and lofty were its proportions. The 
 relics of maraes the worst works of man 
 and some of the most beautiful, sublime, and 
 beneficent of the works of God the everlast- 
 ing hills and the forests of fruit-trees, pre- 
 sentedjtheir melancholy piles of tumbled stones 
 at brief intervals, exciting horror in respect to 
 the past, and gratitude for the present state of 
 the people of these terrestrial paradises to the 
 
 Of these ruins we counted ten within the 
 
 circuit of view from our boat, some on the flat 
 shore, others on the declivities, and others in 
 the recesses of the valleys. Several stone walls, 
 of rough blocks, were built in this small chan- 
 nel for the purpose of catching fish. These are 
 composed of loose materials, broad at the base, 
 narrowing towards the top, and even with the 
 surface of the water. These rude dams are 
 curved, and constitute enclosures or pinfolds, 
 into which the natives drive the fish from the 
 open water and there take them with facility. 
 
 At the extremity, the strait, through which we 
 had been delightfully sailing and singing hymns 
 as wi; sidled, suddenly opened into a large oval 
 lake, of which the motu formed one side and 
 the high cliff of Huahinc the other. This 
 spcndid lagoon, now as smooth as a mirror, we 
 ascertained to be five miles in length by one 
 wide. The scenery around forbids description ; 
 exemplifying all the varieties of natural grandeur 
 and vegetable affluence to be found in these tro- 
 pical climes and insular situations. A small 
 village and chapel at length fixed our eyes, 
 which nothing else but the traces of man (al- 
 ways pre-eminently interesting to us) could long 
 detain, where such bewildering glories of the 
 inanimate creation met us, surrounded and 
 pursued us, on every side. "We were informed 
 that this was the most renowned place in all Hua- 
 hine, having been, from generation to generation, 
 the abode of the kings, and, consequently, the 
 metropolis of the kingdom. 
 
 We landed to examine a famous marae, and 
 also a far more famous tree, which may be re- 
 
 garded as the most extraordinary natural pro' 
 duction of these islands ; indeed we gazed upon 
 it with overwhelming astonishment. This tree 
 is called aoa by the natives. It is the banyan 
 (Ficus Indica). The trunk is composed of a 
 multitude of stems grown together, and exhibit- 
 ing a most fantastical appearance from the nu- 
 merous grooves, which run vertically up the 
 bole, and arc of such depth that a transverse sec- 
 tion would rudely resemble the axle and spokes 
 of a wheel without rim. The girth, near the 
 foot, is seventy feet. From the height of eight 
 feet and onward to forty, immense branches 
 proceed, in nearlyjiorizontal lines, on every 
 hand ; from which, as from similar trees which 
 we have seen and already described, perpendi- 
 cular shoots tend downward, till they reach the 
 ground, take root, and become columns of the 
 "pillared shade." More than forty of these we 
 counted, standing like a family of earth-born 
 giants about their enormous parent. A circle 
 drawn round all these auxiliary stems measured 
 a hundred and thirty-two feet in circumference; 
 while a circle embracing the utmost verge of 
 their lateral ramifications was not less than four 
 hundred and twenty feet. The upper stories (if 
 such we may call them) of this multiform tree 
 presented yet more singular combinations of 
 intersecting and intertwisting boughs, like 
 Gothic arches, oriels, and colonnades, propped, 
 as by magic, in mid-air. These were occasion- 
 ally massy or light, and everywhere richly em- 
 bellished with foliage, through which the flicker- 
 ing sunshine gleamed in long rays, that lost 
 themselves in the immensity of the interior 
 labyrinth* or danced in bright spots upon the 
 ground black with the shadows of hundreds of 
 branches, rising tier above tier, and spreading 
 range beyond range, aloft and around. The 
 height of this tree (itself a forest) cannot be 
 less than eighty feet. It stands so near the 
 lagoon that some of its boughs overhang the 
 waters. Not far from its site there is a Chris- 
 tian chapel, and a pagan marae hard by, where 
 the sovereigns of Huahine were buried and 
 where, indeed, they lay in more than oriental 
 state, each one resting in his bed, at the foot of 
 the Sacred Mountain, beneath the umbrage of 
 the magnificent aoa, and near the beach for ever 
 washed by waters that roll round the world, 
 and spend themselves here after visiting every 
 other shore between the poles. The great 
 marae itself was dedicated to Tane, the father 
 of the gods here ; but the whole ground adja- 
 cent was marked with the vestiges of smaller 
 maraes private places for worship arid family 
 interment while this was the capital of the 
 island, and the head-quarters of royalty and 
 idolatry. On the limbs of the tree already de- 
 scribed there is reason to believe that thousands 
 of human sacrifices have been hung. One low 
 bough, of great length and bulk, was pointed 
 out to us as having been the principal gibbet for 
 such victims, century after century. The tree 
 itself was sacred to Tane ; but he has been ex- 
 pelled hence, and, for ages to come, under the 
 shadow of this prodigy of vegetation, it is to be 
 hoped that "incense and a pure offering" the 
 
7-1 
 
 GROSS IDEAS OF A FUTURE STATE TEMPESTUOUS WEATHER. 
 
 incense of prayer, and the pure offering of 
 bodies, presented as " living sacrifices" will 
 continue to be made here to the true God, by 
 more of his spiritual worshippers than Satan 
 had of his deluded votaries in all the times gone 
 by. We have already stated that this island 
 contributes largely, according to its means, to- 
 wards the support of the London Missionary 
 Society. Silver and gold she has none, but 
 what she hath oil, and cotton, and arrow-root, 
 and hogs these she gives witli a perfect heart 
 and with a willing mind; or, if her children 
 grudge the sacrifices which they bring, she re- 
 fuses to accept them for the service of the sanc- 
 tuary. When a Missionary Association was 
 first established here, and contributions were 
 solicited, the people were explicitly informed 
 that they should not be compelled to give any- 
 thing ; whatever they did, therefore, must be of 
 their own free will. One day a native brought 
 a hog to Hautia, who was the treasurer, and, 
 throwing the animal down at his feet, said, in 
 an angry tone, " Here's a pig for your Society." 
 " Take it back again," replied Hautia, calmly ; 
 " God docs not accept angry pigs." He then 
 explained to the man the objects of Missionary 
 institutions, and the necessity of those who 
 supported them doing so from right motives, 
 (specially enforcing the Scripture words, "The 
 Lord lov'eth a cheerful giver." The man was 
 ohligi-d to take his hog home again ; for though 
 exceedingly chagrined to have it rejected re- 
 fusal being considered a great affront when a 
 pri-eut is offered Hautia was too sternly con- 
 scientious to accept it. In Tahiti, on a similar 
 occasion, a person brought a quantity of cocoa- 
 nut oil to Pomare, in a like bad spirit, exclaim- 
 ing, " Here are five bamboos of oil, take them 
 for the Society." " No," said the king, " I 
 will not mix your angry bamboos with the Mis- 
 sionary oil; take them away." And he dis- 
 missed the reluctant contributor from his pre- 
 sence, with his gifts in his hands, bitterly mor- 
 tified at having betra\ed his meanness, and ex- 
 posed himself to such a rebuke before his neigh- 
 bours. He would afterwards have been glad to 
 redeem his character with twice the number of 
 bamboos, but the reproach clave to him. 
 
 Our friend Auna : this evening gave us some 
 further particulars of the absurd notions held by 
 ih- Areois concerning a future state. The land 
 of graves around us naturally led to conversa- 
 tiou on subjects which lie beyond the grave. 
 Some of these dissolute reprobates believed that 
 when a father or a son died, and went to heaven 
 the heaven formerly described by Anna as a 
 great plain amidst a circle of the gods the sur- 
 vivor, at his decease, was met by the former 
 just on this side of the celestial barrier, who 
 there sei/.ed tin- new comer, and having baked 
 him whole in an earth-oven, as hogs are baked 
 below, put his body, thus dressed, into a basket 
 made of cocoa-nut leaves, and then presented 
 him as a dainty offering to the god whom he 
 had worshipped when alive. By this cannibal 
 divinity he was now eaten up; after which, 
 through some inexplicable process, the dead and 
 devoured man emanated from the body of the 
 
 god, and became immortal. If a father buried 
 his son, or a son his father, in an unconsecrated 
 place, it was said that the deceased woidd ap- 
 pear to the survivor the next day, and say, 
 " You have buried me in common earth, and so 
 long as I lie there I cannot go to heaven, of 
 course always meaning the sensual heaven of 
 the Areois " you must bury me with ceremo- 
 nies, and in holy ground." The coi| 
 then taken up; the arms bound to the shoulders, 
 and the knees up to the body ; it was then in- 
 terred in a hole dug to fit its dimensions, in a 
 sitting posture, but so shallow that th. 
 barely covered the head. This was the most 
 honourable form of sepulture, and principally 
 confined to high personages. But it was more 
 usual to keep the corpses of their friends above 
 ground, on frames, or in the recesses of maraes, 
 allowing them to putrify and contaminate the 
 air all round the depositories of such nuisances. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Tempestuous Weather Case of Consciewt Rights of 
 FMnTN Native Frankness Tane's Bed I), 
 of Tanc's Idol Tune's converted l'rie>t Ancient Fo- 
 rum Fortified F.niineive Ludicrous Tradition Me- 
 teors Offerings to Tane End of the Cru.- 
 lluahine Astronomical Notions of the 1-i.ui . 
 \isions of the Day, &c. Fromjit .lu>tiee Singular 
 Moth Terms for the Winds Apiointment of : 
 in the Church Visit to Tiramano Exotic and Na- 
 turalized Vegetables. 
 
 Jan. 6. (Lord's day.) WE had tremendous 
 weather last night rain and wind which occa- 
 sioned us no small inconvenience in our 
 dwelling. Mr. Bennet complained on Friday 
 of indisposition, from cold taken in consequence 
 of being incessantly exposed to rain and sea- 
 spray for upwards of twenty-four hours, and 
 afterwards (having lent his blanket to accommo- 
 date a friend) lying in his undried clothes, on a 
 board, all night. The usual - hiding 
 
 prayer-meetings and sermons, were performed 
 in the chapel here. Notwithstanding the tem- 
 pest and torrents of rain in the forenoon, the 
 place was filled by an attentive audience, all 
 seated on the floor (there being but one bench 
 in the place), which, however, had been com- 
 fortably strewn with grass for their accommo- 
 dation. As an example of the conscientious- 
 ness with which the Christian natives here ho- 
 nour the Sabbath, we may mention that a man 
 came to us this evening, in some perplexity, 
 saying, "I saw a great many fishes in t ; 
 (one of the stone enclosures above mentioned), 
 and being afraid that they would escape before 
 morning, I put a few larire stones at the entrance, 
 to prevent them from getting out. Have I done 
 wickedly t" Such nice inquiries the people 
 often make, and they are sometimes of a nature 
 so peculiarly delicate that it requires great dis- 
 cretion, and much acquaintance with their 
 habits of thinking and feeling, to answer them 
 satisfactorily. These questions, however, show 
 1 that many keep their hearts with great dili- 
 gence, and watch with a single eye over their 
 conduct. 
 
 Jan. 7. The violence bf the- weather pre- 
 vented us from getting abroad to-day. The 
 
RIGHTS OF FISHERY CONVERTED PRIEST OF TANE. 
 
 75 
 
 lake here abounds with fine fish, of which 
 large quantities have just been taken by the 
 natives, the prevalence of the north wind hav- 
 ing occasioned the shoals to emigrate from the 
 upper end of the lake, and flock for shelter into 
 the weirs. This lake is divided among several 
 chief's, who own the adjoining districts, and 
 such kind of property is considered so valuable, 
 that every superficial inch is claimed by one or 
 another great man ; each of whom maintains 
 his right as stanchly as game-preserves are held 
 in England. The salmon caught here are re- 
 markably delicate, and breed abundantly. 
 
 In the* afternoon, at the conversation meeting 
 (whore all kinds of profitable questions are 
 allowed to be asked by the natives, and are 
 frankly answered by the Missionaries), one of 
 the raatiras said " I have been thinking this 
 day on that passage in the Psalms, ' "Who will 
 show us any good'?' and I said in myself, ' Who 
 will show -? any good {' My heart has been 
 thinking evil against the king (Hautia) who is 
 sitting there. I have been told that he intends 
 to tak" my fishing-ground from me. I want to 
 know whether it is so, because my heart has 
 been full of bad thoughts against him for it." 
 The Missionaries very properly declined to inter- 
 fen- \vithsuch a case; indeed they uniformly 
 forbear from meddling, without special neces- 
 sity, with disputes among the natives, which are 
 ;tled .by arbitrators chosen from them- 
 selves. Their reply, 011 this occasion, ill the 
 presence of both parties, was that, so long as 
 the hue raatiras acted with justice and due re- 
 spect towards their chiefs, they might be assur- 
 ed that these would deal justly and kindly with 
 them. This little circumstance shows the Tahi- 
 tian frankness and fearlessness of speaking all 
 their mind, even before their highest superiors ; 
 and the patience with which Hautia permitted 
 the ailair to pass, in public, equally exemplified 
 the noble forbearance of which such generous 
 spirits as his at once refined and elevated by 
 Christianity are capable. 
 
 Near the chapel there is a stone on which 
 the idol Tane was wont to be set down, that he 
 might reet himself after the fatigue of being car- 
 ried in a man's arms (whose peculiar office it 
 was) down the steep hill adjacent, from his 
 grand marae above, when, on certain extraor- 
 dinary public occasions, it was necessary that 
 he should be removed. The stone is a rough 
 flag, as it was separated from the rock, four feet 
 long, one and a half broad, and nine inches 
 thick. It is placed horizontally on the edge of 
 the lake, about half a mile from the sacred tree. 
 While we were looking at this relic of puerile 
 idolatry, one of the hue raatiras came up. He 
 is now a pious, inoffensive man ; but he long 
 and stoutly stood against the gospel in this 
 neighbourhood, and was one of the ringleaders 
 of the rebel-party who opposed the chief's when 
 they renounced idolatry. Being asked when 
 the idol Tane was last brought down hither,' he 
 replied, " It was when the servants of the true 
 God came to attack us for going to war with 
 them because of their new religion. Tane was 
 brought down by us, and laid upon that stone. 
 
 The two bodies of warriors stood, face to face, 
 so near together as to be ready to begin the 
 battle. Hautia, one of our friends who is now 
 with us, and Tiramano, the chief woman, were 
 at the head of the Christians for you must 
 know that the chief women here buckle on" the 
 cartouch-box, and bear the musket before their 
 troops, as well as the chief men. When both 
 sides were about to strike the first blow, Hautia 
 and Tiramano made an offer of peace. They 
 said, ' You must soon fall into our hands, or we 
 must soon fall into yours ; but, if you will lay 
 down your arms now, we will be friends with 
 you.' Then the true God caused the desire of 
 peace to grow in our hearts, and we answered, 
 ' We will have peace ; we will not fight, for 
 those false gods any more ; we will submit to 
 the true God ! ' And so it ended ; peace was 
 made between us ; a fire was lighted just here ; 
 Tane's image was thrown into the flames, and 
 burnt to ashes, before the eyes of both parties. 
 Immediately afterwards we consumed his house 
 and destroyed his marae. We, who had been 
 rebels on account of our idols, turned to the 
 true God. And then a great feast was made, 
 and the men and the women ate together, in 
 proof that we had all embraced the gospel in 
 our hearts. It was never so before ; if a wo- 
 man had sat down on this stone, or even touch- 
 ed it with her finger, she would have been in- 
 stantly murdered." We congratulated Hautia 
 on having been made the Lord's instrument in 
 accomplishing so great a deliverance of his na- 
 tion from the thraldom of Satan. He replied, 
 with much emotion, " All my forefathers wor- 
 shipped Tane where are they nowl It is my 
 mercy to live in better days." 
 
 Jan. 8. We visited several maraes, accom- 
 panied by Mr. Ellis and a native namedl Tou- 
 mata, who formerly held the illustrious office of 
 to amo atua, or bearer of the god Tane. He 
 belonged to the order of priests, and was a per- 
 sonage of such superhuman sanctity that every- 
 thing which he touched became sacred; he was, 
 therefore, not suffered to marry, as the honour 
 of being his wife was too much for any mortal 
 woman. But this was not all; he would him- 
 self be so defiled by such a connexion that he 
 would he disqualified for his office, and must 
 immediately resign it ; nay, if he did not repent, 
 and return with a great peace-offering to Tane's 
 house, he might expect to be first struck blind, 
 and afterwards strangled in his sleep. He was 
 not allowed to climb a cocoa-tree, because if he 
 did it would be so hallowed that nobody else 
 durst afterwards ascend it. He was the only 
 man living who had a right to handle the god 
 Tane ; and it was his special prerogative to 
 carry the idol when it was annually removed to 
 the neighbouring motu to be stripped and new 
 dressed, as already described ; and though the 
 latter ceremony was permitted to be performed 
 by the priests, he alone could carry back the 
 image to its marae on the mountain-side. To 
 do this, and reinstate it in its upper chamber, 
 he had to climb a post of Tane's house, twenty- 
 five feet high, with the unwieldly block on his 
 shoulders. This office he voluntarily resigned, 
 
76 
 
 ANCIENT FORUM LUDICROUS TRADITION. 
 
 with all its privileges and emoluments, and em- 
 braced Christianity, on the day and at the place 
 where Tane was burnt by Hautia and the zeal- 
 ous warriors who overthrew their country's 
 idols with violence, but subdued their pagan ad- 
 tersaries with meekness, as stated in yesterday's 
 journal. Toumata is a stout man, about thirty- 
 five years of age, and very well versed in the 
 traditions of his heathen forefathers, which en- 
 abled him to give us much information con- 
 cerning the objects that attracted our curiosity 
 in this day's excursion. 
 
 The first marae that we visited was the sepul- 
 chral one of the kings of Huahine for many- 
 generations. It was an oblong enclosure, forty- 
 five feet long by twenty broad, fenced with a 
 strong stone wall. Here the bodies of the de- 
 ceased, according to the manner of the country, 
 being bound up, with the arms doubled to their 
 shoulders, the legs bent under their thighs, and 
 both forced upwards against the abdomen, were 
 let down without coffins into a hole prepared 
 for their reception, and just deep enough to 
 allow the earth to cover their heads. 
 
 Close behind this was another enclosure, 
 thrice the length and twice the width of this; 
 tin? whole raised to the height of five feet above 
 the ground ; the walls of oblong, and the pave- 
 ment of flat, stones, forming a pretty level plat- 
 form. On this were held the national councils, 
 when the kings, priests, chiefs, and landowners 
 assembled to determine questions respecting 
 peace, war, or other great public concerns. On 
 such occasions this stage was crowded with the 
 great actors in those scenes of violence which 
 used to convulse the island with civil strife ; 
 while thousands of the people, the sufferers in 
 such tragedies, thronged around it to hear tin- 
 issue of consultations Avhich wore to relieve 
 them from hostilities already raging, or to break 
 tranquillity then reigning by letting loo 
 against man, family against family, and district 
 against district, till rapine, murder, and de\as- 
 t at inn had done all but their worst, by stopping 
 short only of utter extermination in their pro- 
 gress. The political and priestly orators \\ ho 
 were wont, at such times, to harangue the mul- 
 titude, often displayed no mean powers of 
 s;i\ Hire eloquence. 
 
 Close upon the margin of the lagoon, and 
 under the shadow of the sacred tree, stands a 
 marae, dedicated to the departed spirits of the 
 kings whose bodies are interred in the adjacent 
 one. This, like the rest, is composed of rough 
 coral blocks for walls, and raised to a second 
 story by small flags and stones. A third, be- 
 longing to a family of the hue Raatera, built in 
 like manner, is seen in the same vicinity. 
 Others appear on the lower slope of the hill, 
 which are respectively dedicated to Tane, Raa, 
 and Oro, the principal idols of Huahine. 
 
 On the north of the great marae was Tane's 
 house (now destroyed), a little wooden cham- 
 ber, built on posts, twenty-five feet high, and 
 to which there was no access except by climb- 
 ing one of them. This was the sanctuary 
 where the image was usually kept, and from 
 and to which it was always carried by our com- 
 
 panion, Toumata, till the day when the idol, 
 the sanctuary, and the worship of Tane were 
 destroyed. AVe are told that, when the people 
 saw the flames ascending from the pile on 
 which Tane was laid by Hautia and his Chris- 
 tian warriors, they were powerfully affected 
 some with joy, others with sorrow, and not a 
 few with apprehension that the god would 
 speedily arise, and inflict summary vengeance 
 on his enemies, if not destroy the whole island 
 and its inhabitants, for the indignity offered to 
 his wooden proxy. It ought to have been 
 mentioned that on one side of Tane's house 
 there is a remarkable stone, set on end, which 
 (like the tree on the motu formerly mentioned) 
 is said to have caught his long tail, when, from 
 the top of it, he attempted to mount into the 
 air on a journey of mischief. This tail, it seems, 
 was a grievous drawback to Tane, and various 
 trees, in the boughs of which it had been en- 
 tangled when he was taking his flight, have be- 
 come sacred in consequence of being touched 
 by it, though to his own bitter disappointment, 
 when they caught him and prevented his ai ; rial 
 flight. The old people say that metccu 
 formerly much oftencr seen from tin se inlands 
 than they are now. These, as well as comets, 
 they imagined to be the tails of the 'god 
 therefore, when they saw them streaming 
 through the atmosphere, they immediately 
 threw off their upper garments, and exclaimed, 
 "A god! a god!" Tane's unlucky appendage, 
 probably, was of celestial origin in this \-> 
 and, instead of being translated to the 
 like Berenice's locks, was attached to the popu- 
 lar image of his person, in commemoration of 
 some magnificent meteor, whose train in its 
 flight measured ninety or a hundred .dog: 
 
 Toumata tells us that, when he was a boy, 
 the whole of this hill was covered with dwell- 
 ings and gardens. Now there are but three 
 houses standing \ipon it, of which one only is 
 inhabited. Similar evidences of decay and de- 
 vastation meet our eyes everywhere on this 
 tour. Bo fetal indeed were the effects of war, 
 
 licentiousness, infanticide, and idolatry, towards 
 the close of their reign, that the population of 
 Huahine in the course of a 
 duced from at least ten, some say tir<-ti(y, thou- 
 sand, to little more than as many hundi 
 
 When li\ing animals were brought to be 
 sacrificed to Tane no blood was shed. They 
 were laid upon the stone, and most cruelly, 
 because most clumsily, strangled by th 
 sure of their necks between two pieces of wn<nl. 
 Not hogs and fowls only, but fishes, fruits, and 
 intoxicating spirits, were offered at this altar. 
 Of these good things though presented on the 
 frame, before described, for Tane to feast upon, 
 or rather to be consumed by the birds or perish 
 by putrefaction it w as shrewdly suspected that 
 few were consumed by so slow a proce 
 
 having found a much more convenient 
 way of disposing of them. It is remarkable 
 that among the contributions to Tane'-. 
 Were^rt^/TMCte, according to the season of the 
 year; a poor person w*s expected to bring two 
 of the earliest gathered, of whatever kind, a 
 
NUMEROUS MARAES NATIVE ASTRONOMICAL NOTIONS. 
 
 77 
 
 raatira ten, and the chiefs and princes more, 
 according to their rank and riches. These were 
 thrown down upon the ground, at the marae, 
 with the expression, " Here, Tane, I have* 
 brought you something to eat." In general, 
 when hogs were presented, the heads only wore 
 laid upon his altar, the remainder being baked 
 and devoured by the worshippers and the 
 priests. Many kinds of fish, but neither sharks 
 nor turtles, were thus offered. Human sacri- 
 fices were never slain or exposed here ; these 
 were all gibbeted at the enormous aoa-tree, on 
 the beach below. For Tane's bearer (our 
 friend Toumata) there was set apart, out of 
 these gifts, a certain portion of food, which even 
 the kings dared not to take away or touch. At 
 a marae on the beach we were shown a pre- 
 cious relic. This was said to be a fragment of 
 Tane's canoe, which, though a stone, could 
 swim as well as if it had been timber. To 
 prove this a man threw it into the water, and it 
 actually floated ! The fact and the solution of 
 the puzzle were equally apparent ; it was a 
 large piece of pumice-stone. Whence this spe- 
 cimen came the people could not inform us, 
 but they said that there were more pieces of 
 the same substance at other places 011 the island, 
 which, according to an old tradition, had been 
 collected by some devout person, formed into a 
 canoe, and'presented to Tane. The priests, no 
 doubt, knew well how to avail themselves of a 
 natural circumstance to hold an ignorant and 
 credulous people in delusion by the semblance 
 of a miracle. 
 
 Jan. 9. This day we proceeded on our voyage 
 in Hautia's double canoe. Along the coast we 
 counted nine maraes in the space of a mile. 
 Most of these were curiously, and indeed pic- 
 turesquely, placed on tongues of land projecting 
 into the lagoon, and were "monuments of piled 
 stones," nearly as they came out of the quarry 
 which an earthquake may have made in the 
 rifted rocks on shore, or as they had been 
 broken by the fury of the surge from the coral- 
 reefs that shut out the main sea from beating 
 upon these well-defended coasts. This chain 
 of Moloch's posts, as they may be termed, ex- 
 tended to the foot of the Sacred Mountain, 
 which at this quarter rises immediately from 
 the water's edge with awful grandeur. De- 
 scription, after what we have already attempted, 
 would be mere verbiage here. What most pe- 
 culiarly strikes the eyes of European beholders, 
 accustomed to associate nakedness and sterility 
 with mountains of the highest order, is that the 
 loftiest mountains of these islands are verdant 
 to the very peaks, as though they were them- 
 selves masses of gigantic vegetation, springing, 
 budding, branching, flowering, and bearing 
 fruit, from the sea-beach upward to the firma- 
 ment. Great quantities of rain having de- 
 scended during the last few days, the waterfalls 
 that came tumbling, in white volumes of foam, 
 from the cliffs and through the ravines, added 
 much of splendour and animation to the re- 
 posing magnificence of surrounding objects, 
 which, from their nature, were for ever at rest. 
 
 In the afternoon we disembarked, and having 
 
 taken some refreshment proceeded homewards 
 to the Missionary station at Fare harbour by 
 land. The distance was not more than three 
 miles, but the floods, in consequence of the late 
 heavy rains, being out in many places, the path 
 was overflowed, and made very uncomfortable 
 for foot-passengers. Had not Mr. Bonnet 
 been much refreshed and re-invigorated with 
 change of air and agreeable motion on our 
 cruise alongshore of the lagoon, he would not 
 have been able, in consequence of his late 
 severe indisposition, to make his way with the 
 rest of us. Thanks be to God, however, he 
 was mercifully supported, and we all arrived in 
 safety, and with grateful hearts, at the com- 
 fortable abodes of our friends. The natives 
 thronged to welcome their teachers and our- 
 selves among them again. 
 
 Jan. 10. The inhabitants of these islands, dur- 
 ing their sequestration from the rest of the world, 
 had very scanty ideas of astronomy, and were 
 very defective in their calculations of time. 
 They had some notion of a year by observing 
 the return of the Pleiades, which they called 
 Matarii. The six months during which that 
 cluster of stars appeared above thft horizon, at 
 the going down of the sun, they called Matarii 
 i nia, or above; and the remaining six, during 
 which they are not seen after sunset, they 
 called Matarii i raro, or below. Though the 
 common people do not seem to have known any 
 other constellations by special names, there 
 were among the priests and chiefs some who dis- 
 tinguished Gemini, Ursa Major, Orion, &c., by 
 particular appellatives ; but we found none who 
 could give us any satisfactory account of them. 
 We learned, however, that they had noticed the 
 wandering tracts of the planets, and have names 
 for each of them. The morning star (whether 
 Jupiter or Venus) was called Horo poi poi, or 
 Tauroa. Having observed that the rest of the 
 stars were fixed in their relative stations, they 
 imagined that the sky was a substantial dome, 
 the concave side (like a cocoa-nut cup turned 
 upside down) being spread over the sea, and 
 held in its place by the stars, answering the 
 purpose of fasteners, or nails with shining 
 heads. The latter idea they must have got 
 since their intercourse with Europeans, as pre- 
 viously they had nothing in their carpentry- 
 work resembling nails ; the planks of their 
 canoes being all attached with fibrous cordage, 
 in the manner of sewing. When a strange 
 ship arrived from a great distance, they sup- 
 posed it had come from under another inverted 
 cope of sky, through a hole in the lower part of 
 their own ; the perpetual expansion of space, 
 everywhere presenting the same hemispheric 
 appearance, had not entered into their concep- 
 tions. 
 
 Having no Sabbath, they had no division of 
 time corresponding with a week, nothing in 
 external nature pointing out such an artificial 
 arrangement to a barbarous people : the moon, 
 of course, attracted their attention, and they 
 marked the number of days which elapsed from 
 one lunation to another, and had a separate and 
 significant name for each. The gradations and 
 
DIVISIONS OF THE DAY SINGULAR MOTH. 
 
 sections of day and night were very accurately 
 
 ascertained, as will be seen by the following 
 
 curious table : 
 
 Eao is a day, or the time from dawn to dark. 
 
 Hue mahaua One day, or the time from sun- 
 rise to sunset. 
 
 Maruao The very earliest indication of ap- 
 proaching day. 
 
 Anluttta \ The firgfc breaking of the cloudg 
 
 " 
 
 5wrt,j F"*"*"* 
 
 Arehurchuroa the dawn of day, or the time 
 when objects just begin to appear, though 
 but indistinctly. 
 
 Feraorao When objects appear a little more 
 distinct, and when birds, flies, &c., be- 
 gin to move. 
 
 Poipoi Morning-, when the faces of people are 
 distinguishable; also the time from full 
 daylight to noon. 
 
 Ao Daylight. 
 
 ///// raaotora Simrising. 
 
 Ua teitei ti ra When the sun is high, or fore- 
 noon. 
 
 Avatea Noon, when the rays of the sun fall on 
 the crown of the head. 
 
 Toh'tbu te ra When the rays fall a little on one 
 side of the head. 
 
 Taupe te ra) When the shadow is as long as the 
 
 Tiiiiji, njic } object is high. 
 
 Tah a lc ra ) When the shadow is longer 
 Tu/iataha te ra ] than the object is high. 
 Tuprtape ) When the sun approaches thehori- 
 Ttr/>r ti' ra I zon. 
 
 '/'/ nut in raa i te iria tai When the sun's up- 
 per limb is level with the horizon. 
 A /i id/i i livening.. 
 Art Imrchu raa Rtireing twilight. 
 I'oiri Darkness. 
 
 &"} 1 "** 
 
 Tuii-iia po, or 
 Tuifitit nd 
 
 Veheraa mi The division of the night at mid- 
 night. 
 I'diidnii raa tai The flowing of the tide, or the 
 
 time before midnight or noon. 
 rain TIKI (<ti The ebbing of the tide, or the 
 time after noon or after midnight. (In 
 these seas it is always high water at 
 noon and at midnight, but the tide rises 
 M-ry little.)* 
 
 Jan. 11. There is little reason, as yot, in 
 these islands, to complain of the law's* delay. 
 .Justice is prompt, and punishment certain, in 
 the present inartificial state of society ; a cir- 
 cumstance which, according to the English 
 legislative authorities of the old world, is the 
 best security for public peace and private wel- 
 fare, by presenting many crimes which would 
 be committed, at a venture, were the penal- 
 ties a hundredfold more severe, and the chances 
 ;>e numerous in proportion. A short 
 
 * For the phenoiui'iia of the tides above these islands, 
 s.v Mr. Bennet't true ftatement among the introductor\ 
 
 artirl.-s to this volume ; ami his iii-ivssar\ exposure tit' 
 Kot/i'i'm-'s (lis^raci-i'iil ignorance on the subject, though 
 In- iiiirtii-ul illy ivl'ers to it as lu-in^ M-IV ^i-culiar. 
 
 time ago a woman had got herself tatooed. It 
 was discovered, in the course of a day or two, 
 one afternoon ; she was immediately brought 
 to trial, convicted, and next morning she was 
 at work, carrying stones to the pier, which was 
 constructing on the beach by the hands of pub- 
 lic offenders like herself. Four men were lately 
 detected in a house, having a quantity of ava, from 
 which they were about to prepare the favourite 
 intoxicating liquor of these islands in their 
 idolatrous state. The building was imme- 
 diately condemned to be pulled down, while the 
 fellows were in it ; and a message \\ 
 patched to the chief, whose vassals they were, 
 informing him that there was a house belonging 
 to some of his people, which would be sent t<- 
 him to do what he pleased with it. Accord- 
 ingly the roof was presently removed, and car- 
 ried away on men's shoulders ; the inhabitants 
 being left to follow it, if they thought 
 remain exposed to the inclemency of tl 
 ther. The night being >ery tempestuous, they 
 went from house to house imploring - 
 but were everywhere denied; the good folks 
 within declaring that they were taata ino, had 
 men, with whom they would have nothing to 
 do. At last the outcasts came to the M 
 aries, beseeching them to have compassion on 
 them. Their misery found pity there, and they 
 were allowed to take up their quarters in a 
 neighbouring shed, as a refuse from the tor- 
 rents of rain which were descending. 
 
 Jan. 12. This day we saw one of tin- 
 moths which the natives call pin 
 beautiful insect is an ii.ch long, witli v 
 black eyes; the body and wings an brown, 
 spotted with white. But the most remarkable 
 fiat 11 re is the proboscis, which is from four to 
 five times the length of the creature itself; ami 
 it is very amusing to see with what skill, deli- 
 cacy, and quickness, it collects its food from the 
 nectaries of flowers of all sizes and >lr 
 means of this exquisitely sensitive and pliable 
 instrument, with which it ran^ick- their- 
 while it flutters on the win:: three inches above 
 their untouched petals. And then it Hit 
 blossom to blovMnn, darling out or withdraw- 
 ing this penetrating sucker, which finds r 
 without difh'eulty into the de.-pest tubes \\ 
 nature hides the honey, elaborated foi 
 but not to be come at without a diligent 
 
 Talking about the weather, our friends in- 
 formed us that these islanders formerly believed 
 that the winds wen- confined in two ca\ 
 one where the sun rises, and tho other AS here 
 he sets; and that, according to ti. 
 the year, those from the east, or those from the 
 west, were let loose to blow over land and 
 ocean. This poetical theory had evident re- 
 ference to the trade-winds. But tin \ 
 \ery nice ol servers of the winds in their 
 and their language was as copious in terms to 
 characterize these as we have found it rich in 
 those that distinguished the natural portions of 
 the day. The east wind they called maoai ; 
 the east-north-east, maoai-taraua ; the north- 
 east, pafa apiti ; north, paftiiti ; the winds from 
 north to west, taeruu ; west-and-by-south, ant- 
 
VISIT TO TIRAMANO HER CHARACTER. 
 
 79 
 
 fenua ; west-south-west, aruimaoro ; and those 
 from east-by-south to south-west, maraamu, 
 &c. A strong south wind was called maraamu 
 moano ; a gentle one from south-east, moraamu 
 hoe ; a gusty wind, with heavy blasts and rain, 
 from whatever quarter, haapiti ; a hurricane, 
 tearing up trees, overturning' houses, &c., Jntri ; 
 a squall with showers, papape ; a high tempest 
 at sea, ahoahoa hurifcnua, &c. 
 
 Jan. 13. Being Lord's day, in addition to 
 the usual services the sacrament was adminis- 
 tered. There were thirty native communicants 
 present ; others were gone with Muliine to 
 Tahiti. Among the church members are Ma- 
 hine and Mahine Yahine, king and queen ; 
 Hautia and his wife Hautia Yahine, who, in 
 fact, administer the government in Huahine, 
 under Queen Pom are Yahine ; with nearly all 
 the other resident members of the royal family, 
 who have been admitted to religious privi- 
 leges, not because they are great and powerful, 
 but because they appear to be consistently and 
 eminently pious. Our brethren here, on the 
 establishment of their Christian church, mani- 
 fested a spirit of wisdom and sound judgment 
 on a very delicate point, which reflected the 
 highest credit upon their independence of cha- 
 racter. When deacons were to be appointed, 
 though Mahine, Hautia, and other principal 
 persons, were really the best qualified for the 
 responsible trust, both by their talents and de- 
 votedness to the service of God, yet, from an 
 apprehension that it might form a dangerous 
 precedent, and be pleaded thereafter as autho- 
 rity why their successors in the kingly dignity 
 should also be chosen to this office in the 
 church; and, likewise, lest temporal chiefs 
 should imagine that their rank gave them right 
 to lord it over God's heritage the Missiona- 
 ries conscientiously opposed the election of dea- 
 cons from that class. To the honour of those 
 who were thus passed by, they all had the good 
 sense to acknowledge the validity of such an ob- 
 jection, and the good feeling not to be offended, 
 but meekly to submit to the decision of those in 
 whom they confided, not only as their spiritual 
 fathers, but as their best counsellers in matters 
 concerning which theydeemed it right to interpose 
 with their advice ; and the interference of the 
 Missionaries in peculiar cases, like the present, 
 lii-ing never either officious or impertinent, has 
 alu-i\> curried weight and influence in pro- 
 portion. Under the idolatrous system, the 
 kings had uniform!} been chief-priests; and it 
 required no little firmness to pie\ent a similar 
 association of secular and ecclesiastical pre- 
 eminence being introduced in Christian insti- 
 tutions. In the places of common worship, 
 therefore, kings, chiefs, raatiras, and people, 
 meet as equals ; but elsewhere, we may affirm 
 from what we have seen, in no country is 
 greater respect and obedience paid to civil 
 authorities. 
 
 Jan. 14. Mr. Ellis and Mr. Tyerman (Mr. 
 Bennet being too unwell to accompany them) 
 were sent for late in the evening, to visit the 
 distinguished female chief Tiramano, who was 
 considered to be dangerously ill, in conse- 
 
 quence of having ruptured a blood-vessel a few 
 days ago ; but who had also been made worse 
 by taking some violent medicine, administered 
 by a native practitioner, which had produced a 
 much greater hemorrhage. She was lying on a 
 mat, on the ground, under an open shed, 
 covered with a piece of native cloth, and sur- 
 rounded by her friends and dependants, who 
 were sitting cross-legged in great numbers on 
 every side, and directing all their eyes towards 
 her with intense solicitude to see the issue. 
 Distress was visible in every countenance, and 
 the tears were rolling down the cheeks of seve- 
 ral, amongst whom were the principal per- 
 sonages of the island ; she herself is the third in 
 rank. ' It may be remembered (see January 7) 
 that this'heroic female, at the head of her peo- 
 ple, herself shouldering a musket, marched 
 with Hautia and his Christian warriors against 
 the rebels who had risen in defence of their 
 maraes and idols ; and that the latter were van- 
 quished without a battle by words of peace, in- 
 stead of threatenings and slaughter breathed 
 out against them. To look at Tiramano one 
 would not imagine her a feeble, quiet, re- 
 tiring woman capable of such courage and 
 decision as she then manifested ; but when her 
 spirit was moved in a righteous cause she became 
 a Deborah in the field, though a Mary in the 
 house sitting at Jesus' feet ; and so devoted were 
 her followers to their magnanimous mistress that 
 it was believed had an engagement taken place 
 they would have fallen man by man at her side, 
 rather than she should have been slain or 
 captured. Her visitors found her a little re- 
 covered from a fainting fit, and in a devout and 
 patient frame of mind. Her piety and good 
 conduct reflect honour upon the sex to which 
 she belongs, and which heretofore was deemed 
 unworthy even to eat at the table or taste the 
 same food with man the barbarian himself 
 but a step above the hog on which he fattened. 
 
 We find that the following valuable exotics 
 have been introduced into this island : 
 
 The pine-apple (Brumelia Anana) and the 
 papau (caricd papaya) ; both brought hither by 
 the unfortunate Captain Bligh. 
 
 The superior kinds of cotton brought by the 
 Missionaries. There is a small incligi nous 
 cotton-tree (goKsi/pium Arborcnm},c>^\\\\\^\^\\\\(\ 
 
 The coftee-plant, lately introduced, of whicli 
 some very promising specimens are growing in 
 Mr. Ellis's garden. 
 
 Oranges, lemons, and limes; also tamarinds, 
 planted by Captain Cook, but principally cul- 
 tivated with success by the first Missionaries, 
 and now everywhere flourishing and bearing 
 abundantly. 
 
 The custard-apple (Annona squamosa), 
 brought by Air. Ellis from Rio Janeiro ; of 
 which he has three plants, now producing fruit 
 for the first time. 
 
 The Indian shot (canna Indicd) thrives pro- 
 digiously, though not long ago received from 
 the captain of some vessel which touched here. 
 The berries are round, black, exceedingly hard, 
 and bear a fine polish. They are strung toge- 
 ther for beads. 
 
80 FUTURE COMMERCIAL ADVANTAGES NATIVE FLOWERING SHRUBS. 
 
 Cabbages and onions succeed tolerably well 
 for one season, but the seed will not come to 
 maturity. 
 
 Maize, or Indian corn, has found a genial soil 
 here, and must hereafter be a great acquisition, 
 by supplying a variety of substantial food, which 
 the increasing population and improved state of 
 society in these islands will need, both for 
 health and sustenance. It is not to be ima- 
 gined that a civilized people, whose habits, 
 through cultivation of mind, and consequent 
 personal delicacy, shall be proportionately raised 
 above mere animal nature, could, under any cir- 
 cumstances, remain satisfied to subsist on bread- 
 fruit and plantains, with occasional relishes of 
 hogs' flesh. 
 
 Potatoes will bring a crop, for one season, 
 from foreign seed ; but afterwards they fail 
 entirely. 
 
 French beans are prolific, and seed well. 
 Radishes, turnips, and pease, have not yet 
 been reared to any advantage, and most proba- 
 bly cannot be naturalized. 
 
 Vines, so far as they have been tried, ap- 
 parently would thrive well. There are but two 
 or three of these left, and unfortunately the 
 swine have nearly destroyed them. 
 
 Guavas ( Psydi um pyreforuni ) , Cape mulber- 
 ries (P/ti/sulis Etltilis), and tigs, produce fruit of 
 fine flavour, and might if duly trained be 
 brought to high perfection. 
 
 Tobacco might be raised and cured to any 
 extent which mercantile speculation could re- 
 quire. 
 
 The castor-nut (ricinus) by whom intro- 
 duced we know not has evidently found a soil 
 which it loves and luxuriates in, growing wild 
 and in astonishing profusion. The oil might 
 become an important article of commerce. 
 
 The spices (at least many of them) which be- 
 long to tropical climates might be cultivated 
 here ; but they have not been at all introduced. 
 The present generation of inhabitants will not 
 see the commercial advantages which might be 
 reaped by their birthplaces ; but, though these 
 are but specks on the face of the ocean, it can- 
 not be doubted that they are destined to share 
 in the prosperity of other parts of the recently 
 colonized world adjacent. They will, imper- 
 ceptibly perhaps, grow into importance with 
 New Holland, which is geographically so situ 
 ated as to hold the keys of east and west ; 
 I whereby it will necessarily become the medium 
 I of communication between the Indian Archi- 
 pelago and the Pacific Islands, as well as a cen- 
 tral emporium for the sale and interchange of 
 the commodities of each. 
 
 .Ian. IT). Besides the broad-fruit, the cocoa- 
 nut, and the plantain, formerly described, we 
 have obtained a knowledge of the following use 
 ful trees, which are indigenous in both irroup: 
 of islands, the windward and the leeward: 
 
 The purau we have frequently had occasion 
 to mention as employed for various purposes 
 The slender shoots are converted into light 
 rafters and paling for fences. The inner bark 
 of the trunk is twisted and drawn into strong 
 cordage. The elegant purau-tibutas and mats 
 
 are made of the same bark, stripped from the 
 young branches. The leaves are spread for 
 ablecloths at entertainments. The timber is 
 used in many ways : when well dried, for pro- 
 curing fire by friction ; for walling houses with 
 he planks, and wattling them with the twi<_rs ; 
 for manufacturing paddles and constructing 
 canoes ; now also for oars and boat-building, 
 which are gradually superseding the former. 
 
 The ati furnishes a suitable material for 
 umities, or dishes ; likewise stools, the keels of 
 canoes, and other massy wood-work. The gum 
 of this tree is administered medicinally. 
 
 Of the bark of the aoa (Ficus racemosa), 
 peeled from the branches and small roots, 
 beautiful brown cloth is made, which is highly 
 valued here.. 
 
 The mape is a species of chesnut, which at- 
 tains a great size, and bears abundant fruit. 
 The nut is enclosed in a thick husk, oval- 
 shaped, flattened, and about three inches IOIILT. 
 The natives esteem the kernel pleasant food 
 when roasted. The timber makes tough handles 
 for axes, and other heavy edge-tools. The matt 
 is a kind of mountain sloe. "With the juice of 
 its berries the Tahitian red cloth is dyed ; from 
 the bark fine cordage is prepared, when the 
 shrub itself is not more than two years old. 
 
 Of the aito weapons of war were fashioned of 
 old; but the spear and the club are no long.T 
 wrought out of this once sacred, or rather once 
 cursed, wood, which was the raw material 
 whereof the gods were made. It is now applied 
 to the much more humble and homely, v-t far 
 better, purposes of supplying middle i 
 support the frame-roofs of dwelling*, and occa- 
 sionally for rafters. The mallets also, with 
 which bark is beaten into the cloth called />, 
 arc often carved out of the aito. 
 
 Mii'o, or antac, is a superior timber for car- 
 pentry and cabinet-work. It was formerly 
 much employed about the maraes, for imple- 
 ments and ornamental furniture. The altars 
 were frequently decorated vuth its g 
 foliage. The grain is as close as that 
 hogany. 
 
 Mara is a very hard and enduring timber. 
 The altars were constructed of it ; also the 
 larger paddles, the keels of canoes, and posts 
 on which to hang the most valuable utensils or 
 articles of dress in dwelling-houses. 
 
 The bitaa (a yellow large-jloiccrcd J<. 
 furnishes a ^ery white and lasting wood, but it 
 is short-grained ; yet found suitable for many 
 ordinary purposes. With the flowers the peo- 
 ple, especially the women, were fond of adorn- 
 ing their hair. 
 
 We may enumerate, without discriminating 
 notice, the fo,ta y tou, tierc (the whitt Jusinim- ), 
 fara, paiori, attic, ante, &c., which are used for 
 domestic furniture, house and boat-building, 
 manufacturing dresses, or, borrowing their rich 
 blossoms on festive occasions, as head-garlands 
 according to their various qualities. 
 
NATIVE HOG HANDICRAFTS INDUSTRY OF THE ISLANDERS. 
 
 81 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 A Feeding Warning Discourse against Apostacy A 
 Native Hog a rare Animal now A Singular Fish 
 Handicrafts Tahitian Language and Figures of Speech 
 Sugar-cane Crop Dauntless, Ship of War Ques- 
 tions proposed for consideration Co-operation in 
 House-building Presents to Deputation Mr. Tyer- 
 man and Mr. Ellis sail for- Borabora A Shark cap- 
 tured Placid Beauty of the Sea 'Arrived at Borabora 
 Missionary Station Influence of Conjurors Visit 
 to two English Vessels Opening of a new Chapel. 
 
 JAN. 16. In the forenoon a messenger an- 
 nounced that Hautia and the raatiras had sent 
 us a feeding a present of eatables ; and, before 
 it was delivered, a similar token of good will 
 was brought to us from the members of the 
 church. When the whole was set out for our 
 acceptance in the chapel-yard, there appeared 
 provision enough to feast all the island. There 
 were seven hogs, and heaps upon heaps of 
 cocoa-nuts, maias, bananas, and mountain- 
 plantains ; with taro, pine-apples, pumpkins, 
 sugar-canes, &c. &c. 
 
 In the evening Mr. Ellis chose for the text of 
 his lecture, " Israel slideth back, like a back- 
 sliding heifer; now the Lord will feed them as 
 a lamb in a large place." Hosea iv. 16. At 
 the close of the discourse, we perceived that 
 there was much earnest talking at the lower 
 end of the chapel ; when, on inquiring the 
 cause, we were pleased to find that the text, 
 and the application of it by the preacher, had 
 come with such force to the hearts of the people 
 that they were constrained to express their 
 godly fears, lest they also, like Israel of old, 
 might be tempted to slide back to their idola- 
 tries, and depart from the Lord their shepherd, 
 who now fed them " as a lamb in a large place." 
 Such discourses often produce exceedingly 
 wholesome impressions upon the minds of these 
 unsophisticated converts to the truth, to whom 
 nothing appears so revolting as the idea of apos- 
 tacy from that faith which they have found to 
 be an inestimable blessing to themselves, their 
 families, and their country. 
 
 Jan. 17. We have just seen what is now a 
 rare animal a hog of the native breed, such as 
 were found on these islands by the first navi- 
 gators, but which have been nearly killed oft' ; 
 or, being crossed with swine of European origin, 
 have been superseded by a mixed race, much 
 superior in size and value. This was an un- 
 eightly creature ; very small, short, and hump- 
 backed, with a disproportionately long head, 
 and dwarf cars turned backward. But the 
 main singularity was its tail, placed as if it grew 
 upon the back : this was not more than two 
 inches long, but bushy with thick hair, that 
 covered the adjacencies. The colour of the 
 bristles and hide was reddish-brown. 
 
 A singular fish, which had been struck with 
 a spear and caught in the bay, was brought to 
 us. It is called Aavere. It resembles an eel, 
 and is a yard long, with a remarkably projecting 
 snout one-fourth of its whole length, at the ex- 
 tremity of which is the mouth. The upper part 
 of this proboscis consists of several bones so ex- 
 quisitely articulated, side by side, as to be capa- 
 ble of enormous expansion, while below, where 
 
 these bones seem to unite closely, by an equally 
 curious contrivance, there is a connecting mem- 
 brane which falls inward and admits of corre- 
 sponding distension with the cavity above ; so 
 that this small snout (in shape like a gun- 
 barrel) might be enlarged enough to receive a 
 substance equal in bulk to the whole body of 
 the animal itself. It has pectoral, dorsal, and 
 ventral fins, of very delicate structure. The 
 tail-fins are finely arched backwards, and from 
 between them, as from the centre of a crescent, 
 shoots out a tapering tail four inches long and 
 ending in a point. The colour is blue on the 
 back, and grey below ; the eyes are large, and 
 the pupil is surrounded by a glaring yellow iris. 
 It is said that this arrow-like animal can dart 
 itself out of the water with such violence as to 
 pierce with its snout the body of a man. This 
 fish is esteemed delicious food. 
 
 We were amused to see some of the natives 
 here working at a smithy belonging to the Mis- 
 sionaries ; and, considering their indifferent 
 tools and the few instructions which they had 
 received, it must be confessed that they did 
 very well. They were forging and hammering 
 into form hinges and fish-spears ; but, under- 
 standing the nature and use of the latter much 
 better than the former, they made them more 
 neatly. Many of these people may be called 
 tolerable carpenters, but they have little notion 
 of fashioning good joints or geometrically pro- 
 portioning their work, except when they do it 
 their own way. Thus, in constructing their 
 canoes and building their houses in the style to 
 which they have been accustomed, though they 
 use neither plumb-line, compass, nor square, 
 yet they finish every part with great accuracy 
 and symmetry. Their deficiencies in the me- 
 chanical arts are not those of capacity, but the 
 mere habits of untaught practice, or rather, 
 practice according to different and less perfect 
 rules and models. The women, in devising and 
 executing patterns upon their many-coloured 
 and diversely ornamented cloths, frequently dis- 
 cover fine fancy and delicate taste ; while the 
 men, in the few handicrafts exercised by them 
 in these islands, prove that they are not in any- 
 wise inferior to Europeans, according to their 
 means, in ingenuity or invention. Having 
 little choice of tools, and those often much the 
 worse for wear, whatever they do costs them 
 immense application, yet, by sheer patience and 
 perseverance the most commendable, they sur- 
 mount every ordinary difficulty, and, in fact, 
 are daily improving in such kinds of new-learnt 
 modes of manual labour as have been hitherto 
 introduced among them. Whatever they were 
 formerly, when profligacy and idolatry prevailed, 
 the present generation are by no means the 
 lazy and inactive race which the earlier visitants 
 have represented their fathers to have been. 
 Being under no obligation to toil like slaves for 
 a scanty maintenance, and, moreover, being 
 very lively and inquisitive when a ship arrives, 
 the people of course will crowd about it in their 
 canoes to see what is to be seen, as well as to 
 barter provisions for hardware, &c. Day after 
 day new companies, from different parts of the 
 
 G 
 
82 
 
 FIGURES OF SPEECH CANNIBALISM AT THE MARQUESAS. 
 
 coast, may do the same ; and while they skim 
 upon the sea like water-spiders in their light 
 vessels with their busy paddles, or dive and 
 swim about in it as if they were amphibious, 
 they may indeed appear to strangers to have 
 nothing else to do, or too fond of ease and en- 
 joyment to do anything else; but those who 
 should thus judge would be greatly mistaken. 
 The fact is everywhere manifest that industry, 
 civilization, and good morals, are entirely trans- 
 forming the character, the habits, the plea- 
 sures, and the occupations of this people. 
 
 Jan. 18. We have been diligently endea- 
 vouring, since our arrival at Tahiti, to acquire 
 some knowledge of the Polynesian language, 
 which, with few and easy varieties of dialect, is 
 spoken throughout all the peopled islands of 
 the Pacific. When we first heard the natives 
 conversing together we could scarcely conceive 
 that the sounds were those of speech ; so smooth 
 and well-vowelled and liquid were all these, 
 that they seemed only indistinct murmurings in 
 the air round our ears. The hum of bees under 
 a lime-tree in blossom might, to our apprehen- 
 sion, have been as easily resolved into word- as 
 the audible breath that came from lips on which 
 our eyes were fixed, but which were dumb to 
 our understandings. And yet it was evident, by 
 the animation of look and grace of action which 
 accompanied this delicate confusion of tongues, 
 that every tone and inflection was full of intelli- 
 gence. This must be, more or less, the strange feel- 
 ing which the hearing of an unknown language 
 excites in every one's mind, but which gradually 
 wears away as frequent recurrence enables him 
 to detect articulation in the undulating syllables, 
 which were before but as the lapse of free waters, 
 and to disentangle the maze of running accents, 
 which, at first, were to him no accents at all. 
 By little and little, in like manner, and by the 
 exercise of minute attention, we learned to un- 
 ravel the implicated cadences of low, soft voices, 
 which, from unintelligible monotony, grew into 
 emphatic expression, and at length rose into the 
 harmonious utterance of ever- varying thought, 
 in diction correspondingly copious and clear. 
 Nay, so voluble, sweet, and agreeable to the 
 ear, is the speech, but especially the song, of 
 the lonely inhabitants of these uttermost isles, 
 that we cannot more aptly illustrate its pecu- 
 liarity than by calling it the Italian of Barba- 
 rians. In common conversation much of figure, 
 though very brief and unostentatious, is em- 
 ployed. In speeches and in prayer, likewise, 
 the allusions and similitudes of the natives are 
 often exceedingly beautiful and appropriate ; 
 never redundant, nor verbose, but for the most 
 part so condensed and perspicuous as to prove 
 that they think with accuracy, and can place 
 their conceptions, by means of simple yet forci- 
 ble phraseology, in the happiest points of view 
 for being understood and approved by others. 
 
 As examples of the kind of figures which they 
 employ we have preserved the following ; and 
 they may be said to be indigenous. Those per- 
 sons who attend public worship, but turn a deaf 
 ear to the truths which are continually preached 
 to them, are like the sea-eggs (echini), which, 
 
 though they live upon the coral-reefs, where 
 there sea is breaking day and night above them, 
 yet never hear the sound of the waves. Those 
 who have the means of grace, but make no im- 
 provement in divine knowledge, are like the 
 teliu (a kind of fish), which takes a prodigious 
 quantity of food into its mouth, but discharges 
 the greater part through its gills, withoir 
 lowing or digesting; and, therefore, with all 
 its voracity, it remains lean. In his duties, es- 
 pecially in religion, a man's spirit should be 
 like water flowing down the shallow channel of 
 a brook ; which, though it meets with stones, 
 and sticks, and innumerable obstructions, in 
 its course, continues to ripple and wind, and 
 insinuate itself, perseveringly, through every 
 opening, till it has left them all behind ; when, 
 deep and broad, at length, it runs into the sea. 
 Those who refuse to hearken to the voice which 
 warns them to flee from the wrath to come, but 
 who will hold on in their headlong career of 
 folly that leads to destruction, are aau tuehau 
 men who will not heed their chief, when he 
 calls them up in the night, and says, " It is war ; 
 the enemy is at hand to attack you in your 
 houses ; and before morning you and your 
 family will be murdered if you do not immedi- 
 ately get up and stand upon your defence." 
 But the sluggard, from within, impatiently re- 
 plies, " Go your way ; you talk random words ; 
 you know nothing about it; 'and I won't 
 believe you." He then lies down again to sleep, 
 and is awoke when it is too late by the war- 
 cries of the assailants, who have surrounded his 
 house, and are taking it by storm, while he in 
 vain would attempt to escape, or yet more hope- 
 lessly implores mercy of the destroyers. 
 
 Jan. 21. Early this morning a large vessel 
 hove in sight, and lay off the mouth of the har- 
 bour. It proved to be His Britannic M;ij>M\'s 
 ship of war, the Dauntless, Captain Gambier, 
 which was on the Indian station, but had been 
 despatched to the Marquesas, to search out the 
 fate of several Englishmen, who, it was report- 
 ed, having landed there some months ago from 
 two whale-boats, were captured, killed, and de- 
 voured by the cannibal inhabitants. We have been 
 informed that the circumstance was this : A 
 whale-ship coming to anchor off one of the 
 islands of that group, the captain bargained with 
 the natives for the purchase of some hogs, but 
 when the sellers were about to deliver them, the 
 property which ought to have been given in ex- 
 change was withheld.* The captain afterwards 
 sent two boats ashore, manned with ten hands. 
 These the savages overpowered, upon their 
 landing, seized the boats and dragged the sailors 
 among the bushes, where they slaughtered eight, 
 and devoured their bodies. The other two 
 were spared, but only on condition that they 
 should be tattooed all over, and thus become 
 naturalised. The poor fellows submitted, to 
 save their lives. Captain Gambier, on his ar- 
 rival, demanded restitution of the boats ; and, 
 
 This was Captain Rijjirs. of the General Gafcs. The 
 account here given i> an utter ntarapHMBtattap byCapt. 
 R. ; for the true account, as given by himself to us after- 
 wards atPape ete, in Tahiti, see Chap. xxix. G. BZNNET. 
 
VISIT TO THE DAUNTLESS CO-OPERATION IN BUILDING. 
 
 83 
 
 being refused, an altercation ensued, during 
 which the Dauntless fired upon the savages, of 
 whom, it is said, several were killed. Some of 
 the natives, happening to be on board at the 
 time, witnessed the affray with cool indifference 
 as to its worst consequences, and were childishly 
 amused with the explosion of the guns, and 
 seeing their wooden houses knocked down by 
 the invisible stroke of the shot. But though 
 the people of that bay were thus ferocious and 
 unappeasable, the captain visited another har- 
 bour, at the distance of a few miles, where the 
 residents were peaceable and well-behaved. 
 These islands are represented to us as being very 
 populous, and the natives, especially the men, 
 a remarkably fine race, far superior in muscular 
 strength to the Tahitians, and much fairer in 
 complexion. 
 
 Captain Gambier, with several of his officers, 
 came on shore here this morning, and dined 
 and spent the day with us very pleasantly, at 
 the houses of our Missionary friends. 
 
 Jan. 22. Attended by the queen and her 
 daughter, with others of the royal family, we 
 went on board the Dauntless, to return the visit 
 of yesterday. The queen, as well as Messrs. 
 Ellis and Barff, took with them presents of 
 hogs, arrow-root, cocoa-nuts, maia, native cloth, 
 &c., for the captain ; by whom we were very 
 kindly received and hospitably entertained. 
 This being the first ship of war which had ever 
 visited these shores, the natives viewed every 
 part of it with minute and intelligent curiosity, 
 inquiring the use of all that was new to them. 
 The superb dresses, as they appeared to their 
 unpractised eyes of the captain and officers, 
 especially excited their admiration. They called 
 the epaulettes muni (money) because of their 
 resemblance to gold. 
 
 We returned on shore, at noon, and in the 
 veiling had a long conversation with the Mis- 
 sionaries respecting the notions which their 
 converts entertain of God, time, and eternity. 
 Their views of God, our friends think, are truly 
 scriptural. Of time, as time, their ideas are 
 necessarily imperfect, there being no original 
 word in their language to signify length of dura- 
 tion that, apparently, having never entered the 
 mind of their ancestors, or themselves, even in 
 reference to present existence. Day and night 
 were the only distinctly acknowledged divisions 
 of time among those who lived but from day to 
 day ; few having observation enough to compute 
 a year of moons as a regularly recurring period, 
 much less a year by the sun's journey along the 
 ecliptic ; their two annual sections, according to 
 the relative position of the Pleiades, have been 
 ah x-ady described ; but practical chronology may 
 be said to have been undiscovered by a people 
 who had no annals and but few traditions. Of 
 futurity, it may therefore be taken for granted 
 that they had no definite anticipation, nor can 
 anything like consistent belief in a state after 
 death be gathered from the crvide and contra- 
 dictory fables which we have heard repeated on 
 that subject. 
 
 Jan. 24. At a meeting of the people belong- 
 ing to the Missionary settlement here, held in 
 
 the chapel this afternoon, Auna, one of the 
 deacons, proposed two subjects for considera- 
 tion. The first was that all the women should 
 set themselves to icork to make cloth for those who 
 were poor or afflicted, and unable to procure de- 
 cent apparel. The cloth thus contributed was 
 to be laid up in store, and dealt out to the ne- 
 cessitous, by trust-worthy persons, as occasion 
 required. This proposal was immediately agreed 
 to. Twenty years ago, and, probably, through 
 twenty hundred years antecedent, such an idea 
 would not have come into the mind of a native 
 of these islands ; and, had such a scheme of de- 
 liberate charity been suggested, it would have 
 been treated with neglect, as something not to 
 be understood, or, perhaps, heard with scorn, 
 as too monstrous to be thought of. Auna's 
 second subject for consideration was by what 
 means their houses might be more expeditiously 
 completed? Many dwellings have been begun 
 here, of which the walls are wood, to be covered 
 with plaster. All the people have determined 
 to construct theirs on this improved plan ; but, 
 as every man must be his own architect and 
 builder, from the foundation to the roof, the 
 labour is long and excessive, and necessarily, in 
 many instances, very indifferently performed. 
 Much discussion arose upon this subject, every 
 individual present being more or less interested 
 in it. The business Avas conducted in the most 
 regular manner. Several persons made speeches 
 some, indeed, of considerable length on the 
 question. Each, in turn, Avas patiently heard, 
 and there never appeared the smallest disposi- 
 tion to interrupt any one. Without going into 
 details of the various suggestions that were suc- 
 cessively canvassed and dismissed, we need only 
 mention the result, in proof of the good sense 
 of the people. It was resolved to divide them- 
 selves into two companies, the one consisting of 
 those who resided on the right side of the bay, 
 and the other of those who resided on the left. 
 The company belonging to each section were to 
 assist the members in turn in building their 
 houses. The owner, in every case, was to set 
 the side pillars and to thatch the roof. His 
 neighbours were to do the rest for him, all 
 working together ; by which means, instead of 
 many imperfect skeletons, scattered along the 
 shore (some falling to ruins before they were 
 finished), in a short time a neat and comfort- 
 able village of white-plastered dwellings would 
 be seen among the trees, at the foot of the moun- 
 tains, and looking towards the sea. This plan 
 delighted the people, who are exceedingly fond 
 of doing or enjoying whatever they can in com- 
 pany, whether it be hard labour, innocent re- 
 creation, or religious exercises. 
 
 Jan. 25. While we were at Mr. Barff's, this 
 evening, the queen, followed by the deacons of 
 the church, and their wives, arrived with pre- 
 sents for each of the Deputation, in token of 
 their esteem and affection. They entered one 
 by one, seating themselves quietly upon the 
 parlour floor, without speaking a word. Pre- 
 sently a beautiful purau mat, and one of more 
 ordinary texture and larger size, were spread 
 upon the floor. Each individual, in order, then 
 
 02 
 
S4 
 
 CAPTURE OF A SHARK ARRIVAL AT BORABORA. 
 
 brought out what he or she had prepared. The 
 sundry articles, as they were set down, were 
 equally divided, a portion being laid upon either 
 mat. These were principally mats of many 
 kinds, some exquisitely wrought and ornament- 
 ed ; and a considerable number of small baskets. 
 One of the deacons then, in a brief and modest 
 address, requested our acceptance of their gifts, 
 which were presented personally to the Deputa- 
 tion, those on the one mat to Mr. Tyerman, 
 and those on the other to Mr. Bennet, who 
 each expressed their grateful sense of the kind- 
 ness of their Huahine friends. 
 
 .Jan. 28. Accompanied by the king, and his 
 nephew, a youth twelve years of age, who has 
 been married no small part of his short life to a 
 girl of the same age, Mr. Tyerman and Mr. 
 Ellis (Mr. Bennet being detained by indispo- 
 sition) set sail for Borabora. As we pushed 
 from the pier, a salute was fired from a small 
 cannon and a few muskets, which was con- 
 tinued with repeated vollies for some time. 
 Other guns were discharged from various points 
 as Ave proceeded along the shore, and amongst 
 the rest, from negligence, a full-loaded piece, 
 of which the ball whizzed over our heads as we 
 sat iu the boat a boat filled with people, each 
 of whom had cause to thank God for having 
 escaped the shot, which might have fatalU 
 struck any one of us had it passed a few inches 
 lower. There being no wind we had to depend 
 on the use of the oar, throughout the whole 
 day, which occasioned great exertion, on the 
 part of our men, under a vertical sun. But no 
 European crew, however well trained, could 
 have held more steadily to their work, or per- 
 formed it with more alacrity, than our native 
 rowers. As we were thus laboriously proceed- 
 ing, a large shark had the audacity to spring at 
 one of the oars, and fasten upon it with his 
 teeth. On being disappointed of his prey, by 
 mistaking so indigestible a substance for pa- 
 latable food, he approached quite near the boat, 
 as though he meditated an attack for the pur- 
 pose of carrying off a living victim ; but he was 
 anticipated by our brave fellows, one of whom 
 laid hold of a fin, and kept his gripe, regardless 
 of the danger. The terrible animal instantly 
 raised his tail out of the water over the gunnel 
 of the boat, which, notwithstanding his de- 
 sperate floundering, several of our stout hands 
 seized, and detained him by it till the rest had 
 made a rope fast round his belly, when, by 
 their united force and after many efforts, they 
 actually succeeded in hauling him out of his 
 element, and laying him a prisoner at the bottom 
 of the boat. There, with mallets and staves 
 which they had on board, they soon dispatched 
 him. This was more than either fighting or 
 amusement to the conquerors, for they took 
 their slain enemy on shore, in the evening, and 
 baked and made their suppers of him. Such 
 assaults upon canoes are not uncommon by 
 these voracious and persevering fishes, who will 
 follow in their wake, frequently biting the oars, 
 and watching unweariedly to snatch one of the 
 crew overboard, for a day together. Many of 
 the natives are fearless of the most savage shark, 
 
 when they are properly equipped with weapons 
 to repel or attack, and ropes to secure the for- 
 midable but precious carcase, dead or alive. 
 
 Our voyage, though slow, was exceedingly 
 pleasant. We were sailing on a " sea of glass, 
 mingled with fire," from the splendour of the 
 sunshine upon it; while on every hand, like 
 halcyon's nests, above the tranquil surge, that 
 only broke in wreaths of snow-white spray 
 upon the circumambient reefs, appeared the 
 little peopled spots of mountain wood, and 
 level beach, that form these western Cyclades. 
 
 On approaching Borabora, with its stately 
 and most magnificent peaks, about four thou- 
 sand feet in height, we found that what ap- 
 peared at a distance but one, was in reality a 
 cluster of islands. In the centre of these stands 
 Borabora, with its belt of motus, like a prince 
 among his courtiers. The coral reefs, on which 
 the latter are founded, branch out to great 
 lengths in the deep sea; and, on the side of 
 Tahaa, whither we were steering, completely 
 fortify the shores with ramparts, through which 
 there are no openings. We were, therefore, 
 obliged to diverge to the north-west, at which 
 there is a good entrance to a commodious har- 
 bour. As we struck into the lagoon, and 
 rowed towards the beach, the descending sun 
 had turned the waters to name, and the tower- 
 ing rocks beyond into palaces and pinnacles, 
 more superb in architecture, and richer in ma- 
 terials, than the visions of romance e\ 
 hibited in fairy-land. We diM-mbarked at the 
 pier, which has been carried out in a triangular 
 form, having a middle path, with two sheets of 
 water between the exterior walls, a quarter of a 
 mile in length, towards the reef. This must 
 have been reared at an immense expense of 
 native labour, to heave the coral blocks out of 
 their sub-marine quarries, and fix them in com- 
 pact bulwarks within the domain of the deep. 
 Mr. Orsmond, the Missionary, with a great 
 concourse of people, wa> waiting to welcome 
 us on the pier. Hither, be it recorded, by the 
 mercy of God, we had been brought seventy 
 miles in an open boat, without injury or mis- 
 chance, though the death-shot had passed over 
 our heads at our outset, and the shark had 
 rushed from his ambush upon us by the way. 
 
 Jan. 'Ji. Mi. Tyerman, with his companion 
 Mr. Ellis, under the guidance of Mr. Orsmond, 
 walked through the Missionary settlement, 
 which extends two miles and a half aloni; the 
 shore, having a wide footpath through the 
 whole, formed by laying the trunks of cocoa- 
 nut trees on either side, and filling up the space 
 between with earth. The dwellings of the 
 natives are built on both sides of this road, at 
 convenient distances, all the way. Many of 
 these are in the new style, wattled ami plas- 
 tered. The place of worship does great credit 
 to the industry of the builders. It is seventv- 
 tive feet long by forty-five broad, and is most 
 commodiously furnished with benches ; the 
 floor is lowest along the middle line, from each 
 side of which it slopes very gradually towards 
 the walls, and the forms are so placed that all 
 may, without interruption, see the preacher. 
 
iillllllli 
 
FORMER INFLUENCE OF CONJURORS HONOURS TO THE DEAD. 85 
 
 The pulpit is a specimen of remarkably neat 
 workmanship. At one end of this chapel is a 
 large room, used as a court-house, and suitably 
 fitted up for the transaction of public business. 
 At the front of Mr. Orsmond's house there is a 
 large plot of open ground towards the beach. 
 Here a feast is intended to be held, on Friday 
 next, by the two kings and their chiefs, with 
 the raatiras, in token of their cordial union and 
 common friendship. Mr. Orsmond having pro- 
 mised the children of the school a half-holiday 
 if they would prepare this place for the occa- 
 sion, the little creatures were as busy as bees, 
 running and returning in all directions, to col- 
 lect and bring arms'-lull of grass, to strew over 
 the ground, for the company to sit down upon 
 when they should assemble. And well and 
 expeditiously they performed their pleasant 
 task, on which it was quite exhilarating to see 
 them employed. 
 
 There were among them, in their heathen 
 state, conjurors, who pretended that they could 
 not only tell their dupes where they might find 
 lost goods, but could bring back their runaway 
 wives. In the latter case, the bereaved hus- 
 band who sought the advice and help of such 
 a wise man brought a good fat hog, as a pre- 
 sent, with him, together with something which 
 had belonged to his faithless spouse as a ticre 
 or flower, which she had worn in her ear. But 
 if, in going to the consultation, he crossed a 
 brook, and carried the flower in his hand, all 
 spells and cantrips would be fruitless ; he, there- 
 fore, would throw the precious relic to the op- 
 posite bank, and wade after it ; when, having 
 put it into the hands of the conjuror, he was 
 prepared to expect that, by virtue of this man's 
 charms (which were pretended prayers to some 
 idol) the false one would, of her own accord, 
 return to her husband, follow him every where, 
 and love him with entire affection. An old 
 sorcerer, of this class, lately died here, who 
 was reported to have slain his hundreds. 
 " Bloody and deceitful men" indeed they were, 
 whose " words were drawn swords ;" and who 
 bent their lips " as bows to shoot their arrows, 
 even bitter words;" which they did that they 
 might " shoot in secret," and " kill suddenly." 
 A late king of one of these islands is said to have 
 been an adept in this mystery of iniquity. One 
 of his subjects having refused to obtain for his 
 sovereign something which he had been re- 
 quired to furnish, on being informed of his dis- 
 obedience the king instantly hung down his 
 head, and remained silent several minutes, re- 
 peating, as it was supposed, within himself, the 
 words of doom, from which there was no es- 
 cape. Soon afterwards the man fell down, as 
 in an epilepsy, and expired, without any sus- 
 picion that other violence had been exercised 
 upon him than, probably (though the conjurors 
 generally concealed their designs from their 
 victims lest they should employ other conjurors 
 to counteract their spells), the terror of know- 
 ing that he was laid under the magic curse. 
 
 A frequent trick of the malicious conjurors 
 was to obtain (as usual and indispensable) 
 something which had come from the person 
 
 whom they meant to destroy, or which had be- 
 longed to him. This they inclosed in a cocoa- 
 nut shell, and watched an opportunity to bury 
 it, unobserved, in the earth, under the oven of 
 stones in which he was accustomed to bake his 
 provisions. When, therefore, the destined 
 victim attempted to put bread-fruit or hog's- 
 flesh into this oven, to be dressed, the mortal 
 agony seized him, and he died on the spot. 
 All the deaths, in these cases, were of this 
 hideous kind, and by their symptoms they may 
 be supposed to have been accomplished by 
 poison ; but, however this might be, " the 
 poison of asps was under the tongues" of these 
 men who assassinated with their breath. Yet 
 the Avorst of them (we state the facts as they 
 have been confirmed to us by the best testimony 
 that could be procured) the worst of them 
 never had any power over those who had em- 
 braced Christianity. Of these there is reason 
 to believe that they were actually afraid, having 
 a secret misgiving that they bore " charmed 
 lives," which no power of theirs could touch. 
 "When, therefore, they would harm them, it was 
 attempted by open violence or ordinary stra- 
 tagem, seeing their false gods were impotent 
 against the servants of the true God. In like 
 manner they acknowledge that all Europeans 
 were beyond their reach. Some time ago an 
 English sailor had been left on shore by a ship 
 touching at Matavai bay. There he lived a 
 considerable time. The conjurors, having con- 
 ceived some spite against the stranger, tried all 
 their jugglery to kill him, but he remained un- 
 hurt. One night a number of the murderous 
 fraternity stole into the hut, Avhere he was in 
 bed, and put a piece of fish into his basket. 
 The sailor, however, happened to be awake, 
 though he thought it prudent to pretend sleep. 
 When his visitor was gone he quietly got up 
 and removed the fish out of his basket into that 
 of a native, a fellow-lodger. In the morning 
 the latter cooked and ate the fish, which caused 
 him to be seized with the customary convul- 
 sions and to die in the course of a few hours. 
 
 When the natives buried their relatives they 
 were accustomed to put the blossoms of bread- 
 fruit, with leaves of the edible fern, under their 
 arms, saying, " You go to the Po, plant bread- 
 fruit there, and be food for the gods ; but do 
 not come and strangle us, and we will feed 
 your swine and cultivate your lands." But 
 often, as we have already mentioned, they did 
 not bury at all the corpses of their favourite re- 
 latives or friends ; keeping them above ground 
 till the bones were left bare from the decay of 
 the flesh. They would then take the sculls, 
 place them in conspicuous situations, near their 
 abode, and deck them with flowers, stuck in 
 the cavities or wreathed about the temples, and 
 these they renewed daily. 
 
 Feb. 1. This day the new chapel was opened 
 with suitable services. Upwards of a thousand 
 persons, old and young, crowded the chapel at 
 the opening, and probably the whole population 
 of the island, except the few detained by sick- 
 ness or infirmity, visited it in the course of the 
 day. All were attired in their best, and prin- 
 
BORABORA CARPENTRY AREOIS, OR VAGABONDS. 
 
 cipally native, apparel, few opportunities oc- 
 curring here to traffic for European articles of 
 dress. This gave a peculiarly characteristic 
 appearance to the scene it was a perfect 
 South-sea-island assembly, and as such beau- 
 tifully picturesque. The public feast in the 
 open air, for which preparations had been 
 made, was abandoned on account of the in- 
 clemency of the weather ; but the congregation, 
 dividing into several companies, adjourned to 
 so many private dwellings, and celebrated the 
 great event in social enjoyment after the solem- 
 nities of the sanctuary were over. 
 
 This is the largest chapel which we have yet 
 seen. It has been built under the superin- 
 tendance of Mr. Orsmond ; and all the people 
 of the eight districts into which the island is 
 divided contributed their share of materials and 
 manual labour towards the erection. This 
 occupied the builders twelve months ; and 
 workmen in Europe, furnished with requisite 
 tools, as well as brought up to the trade, can 
 form no idea of the amount of toil and pains 
 expended by these unpractised hands, with no 
 implements which they could use except the 
 rude ones of their forefathers, and a few of a 
 better fashion, but so worn as to be nearly use- 
 less to men unskilled, at best, in the use of 
 them. The bread-fruit-tree timber was, for the 
 most part, cut down in the mountains, and 
 dragged, by main force, to the place, where 
 large boles were split in two pieces, each 
 making a separate plank, and no more. The 
 rafters and flooring were formed in like manner. 
 But, though often weary and sometimes dis- 
 couraged by the length and difficulty of the 
 tusk, tnfe zealous converts from idolatry felt the 
 inspiring principles of the new religion which 
 they had chosen sufficient to renew their 
 strength, from time to time, and enable them 
 to persevere till the last beam was laid, and a 
 temple to God raised, by the first hands which 
 had ever been lifted up to him in prayer within 
 the borders of the island. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Areois, or Vagabonds Custom of despatching Infirm Per- 
 sons Method of Negociatinj; respecting I'.-M. 
 Fantastic Super>titions Marriages otriiietV informer 
 times Conversation-meet int, r Messrs. Kills and T>er- 
 man return to Huahine Native Numeration Baptism 
 administered Indigenous diseases Animals, abori- 
 ginal and naturalised. 
 
 FEB. 2. We shall here put down a few circum- 
 stances which we have lately learned concern- 
 ing the Areois, the legion-fiends of these volup- 
 tuous haunts of Belial. They were one con- 
 fraternity throughout both the windward and 
 the leeward group, though each island had its 
 native band ; but, being a vagabond race, they 
 roved from one to another, at home every 
 where, and every where welcomed on account 
 of the merriment which they carried with them, 
 or obsequiously reverenced for the terror which 
 they inspired when they had occasion to extort, 
 property from those who durst not withhold it, 
 whether they sued, or whether they threatened. 
 They consisted generally of the cleverest and 
 
 handsomest of the people of both sexes, though 
 the proportion of men to women was as five to 
 one. On their lewdness we shall not dwell ; 
 their habits of this kind have been made noto- 
 rious (even beyond the truth) by former writers. 
 When a company of these " chartered liber- 
 tines" landed, after one of their brief voyages, 
 upon a shore where they meant to make some 
 stay, their first business was to take a small 
 sucking-pig, and present it at the marae, as a 
 thank-offering to the god for having brought 
 them in safety to that place. This, we under- 
 stand, was the only sacrifice ever offered in 
 token of gratitude to their imaginary divinities 
 by any of the South-sea islanders ; all other 
 gifts which they brought to the altars were to 
 turn away wrath, or bribe their malignant 
 deities to be propitious to them in war, or on 
 other important enterprises not acknowledg- 
 ments of mercies or favours bestowed. But 
 the sacrifice of the sucking-pig by the 
 had a further meaning than to express grati- 
 tude, which they probably never felt; 
 nified to the people among whom they had 
 come that they wanted food. This rite, there- 
 fore, was followed by a feeding (as it was 
 called), when fifty or sixty hogs, perhaps, and 
 fruit in proportion, were presented to them, 
 together with rolls of cloth, and every necessary 
 for their personal accommodation. This " feed- 
 ing" was not all consumed at once, nor upon 
 the spot, but portions of it were set apart, 
 and sent to their brethren in other islands by 
 early canoes. Thus when they alighted, like a 
 swarm of locusts in a rich district, tin 
 not, like locusts, contented with \\hat they 
 could devour themselves, but swept awa 
 the miserable inhabitants whatever they could 
 obtain, for the support of those of their order 
 who were wallowing at their ease on dunghills 
 of sloth, while these were labouring abroad in 
 their vocation. That vocation was principally 
 the exhibition of licentious dances, and oeea- 
 sionally dramatic scenes, rudely constructed, or 
 the recital of romantic and diverting tales con- 
 cerning their ancestors and the irnds. Man\ of 
 these were very long, and regular! \ 
 so as to be repeated verbatim, or with such 
 illustrations only as the wit or fancy of the 
 narrator might have the skill to introduce. 
 Their captain, on public occasions, was placed 
 cross-legged on a stool seven feet high, with a 
 fan in his hand, in the midst of the circle of 
 laughing or admiring auditors, whom he de- 
 lighted with his drollery, or transported with 
 his grimaces, being, in fact, the merry-andrew 
 of the corps, who, like a wise fool, well knew 
 how to turn his folly to the best account. 
 
 The Areois were countenanced, not by the 
 vulgar only, but by the kings and chiefs, who 
 indulged them in all their licentious practices, 
 and probably found them very convenient tools 
 for the furtherance of their own purposes of 
 fraud and oppression. Availing themselves of 
 the influence which they thus possessed, these 
 reprobates were guilty of the most cruel exac- 
 tions wherever they went. One of them, for 
 example, would enter the house of a poor man, 
 
CUSTOM OF DESPATCHING INFIRM PERSONS PLACE OF THE DEAD. 87 
 
 and by certain ceremonies pretend to make his 
 little boy playing on the floor a king; then, 
 with mock homage, he would say, "I am come 
 to the king's house ; I want food, give me that 
 pig ; I want apparel, give me that piece of 
 cloth." And the father of the new-made king 
 seldom had the hardihood to refuse the boon so 
 flatteringly demanded. If he did refuse, his 
 visitor would threaten him with banishment or 
 death ; and such threats were not to be despised. 
 
 One of the monstrous practices of these 
 islanders, before they embraced the gospel, was 
 to bury their friends alive when, from their in- 
 firmities, they became burthensome to the 
 young and the vigorous. They would dig a 
 hole in the sand on the sea-beach, then, under 
 pretence of taking their aged or sick relative to 
 bathe, they would bear him on a little to the 
 spot and tumble him into the grave which had 
 been prepared, instantly heaping stones and 
 earth upon him, and trampling the whole down 
 with their feet, till whether they left him dead 
 or alive was of little moment, as it was impos- 
 sible for him to rise again. In other cases the 
 unnatural kindred would rush into the invalid's 
 house at once, from opposite ends, and make 
 their spears meet in his body. Then they 
 would coolly share the spoil of his little pro- 
 perty, and depart without any other reflection 
 except that they had rid themselves of a nui- 
 sance, and perhaps gained a paltry article of 
 dress or furniture as the price of blood. 
 
 The following method was sometimes adopted 
 in negociating peace between two belligerent 
 parties. The principal warriors of each met by 
 appointment at a particular place, standing 
 aloof at a short distance from one another. An 
 orator then stepped forth from the ranks on one 
 side, and addressed the adverse chiefs, proposing 
 terms of reconciliation. When he had done, 
 he threw a piece of coral among them. If the 
 terms were approved, assent was declared; if 
 not, the coral was flung back. In that case a 
 second, and sometimes a third or fourth, of the 
 party disposed for conciliation came forward 
 offering better and better conditions, till they 
 were either wholly accepted or rejected. In 
 the latter event, of course, hostilities were im- 
 mediately renewed ; but in the former, those 
 who had just before been mortal enemies flew 
 into each other's arms, and celebrated the end of 
 strife by a feast of friendship. Peace was occa- 
 sionally sought in another manner. The depu- 
 ties empowered to make proposals embarked in 
 the handsomest canoe belonging to their friends, 
 taking with them the stem of a mountain-plan- 
 tain, and a piece of very fine cloth about eigh- 
 teen inches square, on which was laid a wreath 
 of sweet-scented fern, garnished with a few red 
 feathers. With these pacific emblems, and a 
 priest at their head, they paddled towards the 
 shore of the enemy's district. When they had 
 arrived at a convenient station, the priest rose 
 up in the canoe and addressed the representa- 
 tives of the other party, who were standing on 
 the beach, telling them who he himself was, 
 who was his god, who they were from whom he 
 came, and what kind of offers he had to make 
 
 to them. If these were not favourably received 
 the priest and his friends were answered by a 
 volley of stones from the shore, and compelled 
 to sheer off as hastily as might be. Otherwise 
 they were invited to land, when the terms were 
 immediately ratified. A large hog was then 
 brought and made to stand upright, while some 
 men of both parties, with two strong sticks, 
 one placed upon the neck and the other against 
 the throat, strangled the poor animal by main 
 force in pressing them together. They then 
 stabbed it, caught the blood in a vessel, and 
 sprinkled the carcase with it all over from head 
 to tail ; after which it was carried to the marae 
 and offered to Oro, or Tani, or whatever idol 
 might be worshipped there. The negociators 
 on each side afterwards took the cloth, in turn, 
 and said to the others, " If you tear this cloth 
 (that is, if you violate this treaty} you shall bear 
 the blame, and we will tear you to pieces." 
 Words to the same purport were uttered alter- 
 nately by " the high contracting parties " over 
 the garland, the feathers, and the plantain-stem, 
 signifying that those who were guilty. of bad 
 faith should be scattered like the former, and 
 broken like the latter, by those whom they now 
 deceived and hereafter assailed. 
 
 We have already mentioned a few of the 
 many incoherent notions which these people 
 entertained regarding a future state. With re- 
 spect to this, whatever hopes of a sensual para- 
 dise the Areois might cherish, the views of the 
 multitude were gloomy and terrifying. They 
 called the hades to which the departed went by 
 the same name as night, Po. They knew not 
 where or what it was, but imagined that the 
 gods resided there and preyed upon the dead, 
 who, after being made their food, by a singular 
 metamorphosis became spiritual and immortal, 
 in some sense which our informant could not 
 comprehend, and therefore could not explain to 
 us. The destiny of their kings in the world to 
 come was little flattering to their pride and 
 supremacy on earth. They believed that each 
 of these illustrious personages was converted, 
 after death, into a very useful piece of furniture 
 common in native nouses here, and conse- 
 quently not less necessary in the palaces of the 
 gods, called f alamo, ; which something resem- 
 bles the pedestal and pegs, in English passages 
 and entrance-halls, on which hats and great- 
 coats are hung. Here it is the branch of a tree, 
 with the lateral forks cut short, on which bas- 
 kets, bonnets, and other utensils or portions of 
 dress are hung, fixed upright in the middle of 
 dwellings, for the convenience of all the occu- 
 pants. To escape this degradation and to be 
 numbered among the gods, those sovereigns 
 who were rich enough made friends of the 
 priests by the most costly presents. When in 
 danger of death, a king who had been great and 
 powerful in this life, and wished to be so in tin: 
 next, sent four or five of the largest and fattest 
 hogs, and as many of the best canoes that he 
 could procure, with any rare and valuable Eu- 
 ropean article which lie might happen to pos- 
 sess, to the priests. These loyal and grateful 
 subjects, in return, put up daily prayer in his 
 
88 
 
 A MARRIAGE CEREMONY OFFICES OF THE PRIESTS IN WAR. 
 
 behalf at the maraes till his decease; after 
 which his hody was brought to one of these 
 sacred places, and kept in an upright attitude 
 for several days and nights, during which yet 
 larger gifts were sent by his relatives, and the 
 most expensive sacrifices offered to the idols, of 
 which the priests as their proxies were the prin- 
 cipal recipients. The putrid carcase was then 
 taken away and placed in a canoe, which was 
 rowed out on the lagoon as far as an opening in 
 the reef, and thence brought back again ; the 
 farce of fanatical prayers and lugubrious cere- 
 monies being performed by the priests over the 
 corpse on the water as well as on land. The 
 royal remains were at length laid out to rot in 
 state upon one of the platforms already de- 
 scribed as the usual depositories of " the mighty 
 dead." 
 
 Many of the sacrifices which were formerly 
 offered by these Gentiles were, in their design 
 at least, expiatory. When a subject had offend- 
 ed the king, and dreaded his vengeance, he fled 
 into the mountains, or crossed to another shore, 
 and did not dare to approach the sovereign till 
 his wrath had been allayed by a peace-offering. 
 This was generally done by some prudent rela- 
 tive, who watched the opportunity to take a 
 good fat hog to his majesty, and say, " Let this 
 pig reconcile you to such an one." According 
 as that present was accepted or refused the cul- 
 prit judged of his safety or peril if he appeared 
 again in the presence of the king. When swine, 
 fowls, fruits, and human victims were taken to 
 the altars of their mercenary and vindictive 
 divinities, it was frequently in atonement for 
 some crime committed, or in anticipation of one 
 meditated by the devout worshippers. A wo- 
 man, intending to effect abortion during preg- 
 nancy (which was atrociously common), or to 
 murder her offspring as soon as it should be 
 born, presented herself if possible a day before 
 the time at the marae with a rau maire a sprig 
 of sweet-scented fern in her hand, which she 
 threw down upon the sacred stones, saying, 
 " I intend to give you a man to-morrow ; do 
 not be angry with me." 
 
 Marriages among the higher orders were 
 often contracted in the following manner. A 
 person who had a beautiful daughter brought 
 her, while yet a child, to a chief, saying, with 
 the utmost frankness, " Here is a wife for you !" 
 If the great'man liked the girl's appearance he 
 took her off her father's hands, and placed her 
 with some trusty dependant, to be trained and 
 fattened, like a calf for the slaughter, till she 
 had attained a suitable age. When her master 
 chose to take her for his wife, the betrothed 
 and their friends met at the marae. The girl 
 appeared there with a cord about her neck, 
 supported by one of her nearest kin, and 
 accompanied by a man holding some leaves 
 of sweet-smelling fern in each of his hands, 
 which he pressed on either side of his head 
 above the cars. When the procession reached 
 the altar these leaves were cast upon the ground. 
 The priest, having muttered his prayers, took 
 up one of the sprigs of fern, and, while each of 
 tin- dead ancestors of the bride (so far back as 
 
 they were remembered) was named, he doubled 
 down or tore off one of the side leaflets. Then, 
 while the names of her living relatives were 
 mentioned in due order, one of the remaining 
 leaflets was successively pointed out as the 
 number of each. When that which represented 
 the nearest in blood of those who were at hand 
 occurred, that kinsman stepped forth, loosed the 
 rope from the bride's neck, and delivered her to 
 her husband. The friends on both sides then 
 presented the couple with hogs, bundles of 
 cloth, wooden dishes, canoes, &c., &c., accord- 
 ing to their rank and ability. In less time than 
 the honeymoon requires to fill and empty her 
 horn, the chief probably grew weary of his 
 spouse, and said to her, Atira (it is enough), 
 hacre e oe (go away). The woman was then 
 abandoned, and what often became of her may 
 be 'easily guessed. In this manner the great 
 people took and put away as many wives as they 
 pleased, or could get. 
 
 The priests of these islands were not confined 
 to the exercise of their devotional functions ; 
 they were also warriors and -statesmen, who ac- 
 companied their kings both at the council- 
 board and in the field by sea as well as by 
 land. On the water the priests carried their 
 idol in a separate canoe ; in which the image 
 was sometimes placed on a high stool, some- 
 times laid downjwhen immediate danger was 
 apprehended, and sometimes held up in the 
 hands of his bearer during a battle. This sacred 
 canoe always led the van of the rest, and the 
 priests were accustomed to fight to the most 
 desperate extremity in defence of their palla- 
 dium, for while this was uncaptured the con- 
 flict might be maintained, but, as soon a- 
 lost, the party to which it belonged would Hirht 
 no more. The moment the god fell into the 
 adversary's hands his divinity forsook him, and 
 so did his adherents. Panic-struck, they fled 
 in all directions. 
 
 The superstition of these islanders v 
 deed interwoven with even' thing that was done 
 by them, whether national and on a large scale, 
 or personal and domestic ; from affairs the 
 most important, to those that were least signifi- 
 cant. Before a Tahitian would put off in his 
 canoe from the beach, to go a fishing, he made 
 a point to pray to his god for success. Was 
 this the case with an ignorant, degraded, idola- 
 trous race of barbarians, whoso religion was as 
 base as their deities were impotent t What ex- 
 cuse, then, will those offer, for their uniform 
 disregard of God in all their ways, who profess 
 the only true religion in the world, and yet 
 exclude that religion from every thing they do ! 
 
 Feb. 5. The last three days have been so 
 tempestuous that we could do little more than 
 hold our meetings, religious and social, within 
 doors, and collect such points of information 
 concerning the former practices of these people 
 as we have recorded under the foregoing date. 
 Yesterday evening about fifty natives came into 
 Mr. Orsmond's house to hofd a free co: 
 tioii with us. Many exceedingly curious (and 
 some very subtle) questions were asked, which 
 showed comprehensive thought, acute reasoning, 
 
RECENT CHANGE IN THE NATIVE LANGUAGE. 
 
 and fine moral feeling, to be no uncommon 
 qualities of mind here, little as the higher intel- 
 lectual powers have hitherto been brought into 
 exercise. As to original capacity, we cannot 
 doubt that the reclaimed savages, who are re- 
 ceiving instruction of every kind as little chil- 
 dren, need not be ashamed to measure their 
 standard with that of the bulk of mankind in 
 civilised countries. We have often been asto- 
 nished when we have visited their schools and 
 been assured as in this island that not more 
 than three or four persons knew so much as 
 the letters of the alphabet eleven months ago 
 we say we have been astonished to find scores, 
 both among adults and children, who can now 
 read the New Testament with fluency and cor- 
 rectness ; while the progress of intelligence 
 keeps pace with the acquisitions of memory. 
 At the conversation-meeting yesterday evening 
 a man, who was sitting among the rest upon 
 the floor, suddenly cried out, in great agitation 
 of spirit, " "What shall I do? I have continually 
 before my eyes the likenesses of my children 
 whom I killed in their infancy when I was a 
 heathen. Wherever I go they meet me ; and I 
 seem to see them as plainly as I did when I 
 took] them from my wife's arms, immediately 
 after they were born, and destroyed them. I 
 know not what to do !" Suitable repentance, 
 and fruits meet for repentance in his future con- 
 duct, were of course earnestly and faithfully re- 
 commended to the self-accused and self-con- 
 demned sinner. He had been the murderer of 
 four of his offspring, but was happily himself 
 rescued fromthe service of him" who was amur- 
 derer from the beginning" in time to prevent 
 him from laying violent hands on four more 
 who have since been born to him, and whom 
 we trust he is now endeavouring to train up in 
 the service of Him who came " not to destroy 
 men's lives but to save them." This afternoon, 
 the weather being more favourable, we (Mr. 
 Tyerman and Mr. Ellis) returned to Raiatea. 
 
 Feb. 6. The morning being fine we embarked 
 :iLr;iin in our boat for Huahine, but were obliged 
 to put back before noon. Our conversation, 
 while at sea, turned upon the language of these 
 islanders. On enquiring whether the change 
 from paganism to Christianity had been favour- 
 able to its improvement or otherwise, we were 
 informed that, hitherto it had made little differ- 
 ence, except in the vocabulary, by rendering 
 obsolete many obscene terms which formerly 
 were much employed, and naturalising some 
 words, such as Hinieni, a Hymn, Sabati, the 
 Sabbath and Scriptural names, as Jehova, and 
 Jesus Christ, &c., necessary for Christian wor- 
 ship. The language, expurgated of the abomi- 
 nations above mentioned (which were necessa- 
 rily Associated with the worst possible taste), is 
 becoming more delicate and refined, both in 
 pronunciation and rhythm, in proportion as 
 purer, nobler, and more graceful modes of 
 thinking and speaking have naturally resulted 
 from familiarity with worthier subjects for 
 thought and speech, among the natives. The 
 violent harangues to which war and danger for- 
 merly gave birth, and the bitter invectives which 
 
 were wont to be uttered in the quarrels, jealou- 
 sies, and recriminations of private life, are now 
 the former never, and the latter rarely, heard ; 
 yet the Tahitian tongue lacks neither nerve nor 
 copiousness : nor are opportunities wanting to 
 display all its excellences on glorious themes 
 and great occasions as in courts of justice, 
 national and religious assemblies, but especially 
 on Missionary anniversaries. And (which 
 might hardly be expected) there is as much 
 diversity of talent, among the untaught orators 
 of these little islands of the west, as may be 
 found among the leaders of the British senate ; 
 we make no invidious or absurd comparisons as 
 to quantity. Their speeches, whether argumen- 
 tative or declamatory, are seldom long. They 
 feel much annoyed by a tedious talker, and when 
 such a one gets up they will say to each other, 
 " Now we must look about for our patience." 
 Though very careful not to wound, in public 
 debate, the personal feelings of those to whom 
 they are opposed, they can be sufficiently sar- 
 castic in conversation. If asked, " Did you not 
 like such a speaker 1 ?" "Oh, yes!" "And did 
 you not like such a speech 1" " Yes, to be sure ; 
 and we like the bleating of a billy-goat." 
 
 Feb. 7. It was not till evening that we were 
 able to put to sea again, in the hope of reaching 
 Huahine by rowing hard all night that island 
 lying thirty miles distant and the surge being 
 still greatly agitated by the recent long-prevail- 
 ing high winds. We were, on board, sixteen 
 persons, Europeans and natives, exposed in an 
 open boat, with little provision in case of need, 
 and the probability, were a hard gale to come 
 on (which the lowering aspect of the heavens 
 portended), of being driven we knew not whi- 
 ther on the limitless ocean. But, after a suffi- 
 cient trial of faith and patience to make us feel 
 ourselves wholly at the mercy of Him " who 
 layeth the beams of his chambers in the waters, 
 who maketh the clouds his chariot, and walketh 
 upon the wings of the wind," the moon arose, 
 and the remainder of the night was serene 
 above, and not uncomfortably turbulent below. 
 At five o'clock in the morning we landed at 
 Huahine : a number of the kind-hearted peo- 
 ple were standing on the shore, who welcomed 
 our return with their joyful iaoraanas : these we 
 heartily re-echoed, and added our hallelujahs 
 to the Lord, who, amidst the perils of the deep, 
 had delivered us from all our fears. 
 
 Feb. 9. Among the peculiarities of the Tahi- 
 tian language is one which (so far as we are 
 aware) has no parallel in any other. The 
 numerals have what may be called the distinc- 
 tion of tense ; prefix A being the sign of the 
 past and present, and E the sign of the present 
 and future. Several of them also have two 
 names. Thus : 
 
 Past and Present. Present and Future. 
 
 Atahi .... One . Etahi, or Hoa. 
 Apiti, or Arua . . Two . Epiti, or Erua. 
 
 Atoru Three , Etoru. 
 
 Amaha .... Four . Emaha. 
 Apai, or Arima . . Five . Epai, or Erima. 
 Aono, or Afene . . Six . Eono, or Efene. 
 Ahitu Seven. Ehitu. 
 
Ill) 
 
 NATIVE NUMERATION INDIGENOUS DISEASES. 
 
 Past and Present. Present and Future. 
 
 Avau, or Avaru . . Eight. Evau, or Evaru. 
 
 Aiva Nine . Eiva. 
 
 Ahuru ...... Ten . Ehuru. 
 
 If a person, therefore, were asked how many 
 articles of a particular kind he had yesterday, 
 how many he has to-day, or how many he shall 
 have to-morroio (or at any past or future time), 
 he would use different words in answering the 
 question. Thus: " A ae buaananahi?" How 
 many hogs had you yesterday!" If he had six, 
 he would say " Aono" meaning I had six." 
 " But how many have you to-day !" If the num- 
 ber were the same as yesterday, he would say 
 "Aono" meaning "I have six." "But how 
 many shall you have to-morow 1" He would 
 then change the prefix from A to E, and say 
 " Eono" meaning I " shall have six." Or in the 
 three cases he might use the second terms for six, 
 and say afene, or efene. When the numbers run 
 above ten they compute upon the usual princi- 
 ples ; eleven being ten and one, twelve ten and 
 two, &c. "When they come to twenty, they say 
 two tens; thirty three tens, &c. A hundred 
 has a distinct appellation, rau. They afterwards 
 proceed by hundreds as previously by tens one 
 hundred, two hundred, &c. till they reach a 
 thousand, which is called memo. Again con- 
 necting the units in succession with the mano, 
 when they arrive at ten thousand they call that 
 sum manotini. Then numbering manotinit as 
 they hud done manos, up to ten times ten thou- 
 sand, they call a hundred thousand rehu ; and 
 counting upward on this, in like manner, to a 
 million, they call that ihu ; beyond which they 
 have no specific name for any specific number, 
 though, by the use of ahurus, raus, manos, man- 
 dtiniti, ami rchus, they can multiply the thus 
 (millions) to any amount expressible by human 
 terms. 
 
 Feb. 10. (Lord's day.) Mr. Ellis preached in 
 the forenoon from the words " Jesus answered 
 him, If I wash thee not, thou hast no part with 
 me." John xiii. 8. After this service the 
 public baptism commenced, when nearly a 
 hundred men, women, and children, were thus 
 admitted into Christ's visible church. A hollow 
 square having been made with benches at the 
 lower end of the chapel, where there are no 
 pews, the candidates took their seats, with their 
 faces towards a table placed in the middle for 
 the accommodation of the officiating ministers. 
 Mr. Ellis, after a brief address, proceeded to ad- 
 minister the sacramental ordinance to the adults, 
 seated as they were upon the forms before 
 him ; repeating over each the words of the In- 
 stitution : " liapatizo [This is an engrafted 
 word, there being no corresponding term in the 
 
 native tongue] , te ioa no te Mcduu, 
 
 e no te Tamaidi, e no te Varua Maitai." " I 
 
 baptize thee, , in the name of the 
 
 Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost." 
 
 When the adults had all received baptism, 
 an infant belonging to Mr. and Mrs. Ellis, and 
 another belonging to Mr. and Mrs. Barff, were 
 dedicated to God by the same rite the symbol 
 of regeneration, which Mr. Tyerman, at the 
 request of the parents, administered. The 
 
 children of the adult natives (on whom the 
 ceremony had just been performed) some in 
 the arms, and some four or five years old 
 were then baptized by Mr. BarfF; fathers and 
 mothers, sons and daughters, being thus brought 
 into " the communion of saints" on earth in the 
 same hour ; the former first giving themselves 
 " unto the Lord," and then entering into cove- 
 nant for those little ones which the Lord had 
 given to them, to bring them up in his nurture 
 and admonition. The scene was affecting and 
 solemn beyond any thing that we had yet wit- 
 nessed, and the season was truly refreshing from 
 the presence of the Most High. 
 
 Feb. 11. At the conversation-meeting, which 
 was numerously attended, many texts were 
 quoted, both by men and women, from various 
 parts of Scripture, that they might be particu- 
 larly expounded by the Missionaries. It is 
 surprisinir with what eagerness these new con- 
 verts to the gospel seize and treasure up the 
 precious words of grace which they catch from 
 the lips of their teachers, when quoted from still 
 untranslated books of the Bible; as well as 
 with what diligence they commit to memory 
 numerous chapters and whole gospels which 
 have been rendered into their mother tongue. 
 Some who cannot read themselves can repeat 
 almost every text which they ever heard, and 
 even large portions of the New Testament, 
 which they have learned by hearkening to ot hers, 
 while these read aloud to little audiences which 
 they sometimes collect in the open air, under a 
 tree, or in their family circles. There are few, 
 indeed, of those who regularly attend public- 
 worship who do not know by heart all the 
 hymns that are usually sung there. 
 
 Wr have made minutes, from time to time, 
 of the diseases which are most frequent in these 
 islands : the following are the principal : 
 
 Hotiti, pulmonary consumption, which carries 
 ofF, on an average, three of every hundred that 
 die. 
 
 Fefe, a species of elephantiasis, causing hide- 
 ous enlargements of the arms and legs. About 
 four in a hundred are affected by it here ; though 
 in Borabora, among a thousand inhabitants, 
 there is only one invalid of this class. Un- 
 wholesome food, or too much food, heat, damp, 
 ill-constructed dwellings, want of cleanliness 
 and indolent habits, induce this deforming com- 
 plaint, which will, probably, be much more rare 
 in future, from the exceedingly improved state of 
 society. 
 
 Sarcocele, another gigantic tumefaction of 
 morbid parts of the body, too frightful for de- 
 scription ; which, it is to be hoped, purer and 
 more temperate modes of living will likfu i<e 
 subdue. One in a hundred is more or less 
 afflicted in this way. 
 
 Monumonu, or the throbbing, that is the tooth- 
 ach, is not common. The natives have the finest 
 and most perfect teeth, perhaps, in the world. 
 
 Tariaturi, a deaf ear ; and vava, dumbness. 
 Both these terms are used to signify the condi- 
 tion of a person born deaf and dumb. There 
 is but one case of it in Huahine, where there 
 are two thousand inhabitants. 
 
ABORIGINAL ANIMALS ANIMALS NATURALISED. 
 
 1)1 
 
 Matapo, Blindness. Of this, in the same 
 population, there are three instances. 
 
 Bupa, a shivering fit ; and ahu, a burning 
 fit are employed to express the symptoms of 
 intermittent fevers, which are frequent here, 
 especially during the rainy season. They some- 
 times assume the form of ague. 
 
 Matapofo, a spasmodic affection of the face. 
 It discovers itself by a pain in the forehead, 
 which, proceeding downward, successively 
 affects the eye, the ear, and the neck : this is 
 followed by lock-jaw, when the patient swoons 
 outright, and, unless prompt relief be adminis- 
 tered, speedily expires. The natives have a 
 specific of some efficacy, which they immediately 
 prepare, and force into the stomach by wrench- 
 ing open the jaws. This malady, which is 
 not uncommon, is most rife after long dry wea- 
 ther. 
 
 Tuabu, Hump-back. Two in a hundred 
 have this unsightly encumbrance. It is induced 
 by a fever, which leaves a tumour on the verte- 
 bral column. Children from four to five years 
 of age are frequently thus afflicted. If the 
 spine curves at a certain crisis of the complaint, 
 the patient recovers ; if not, he dies. Men are 
 generally more distorted in this manner than 
 women. 
 
 Of ao, taniri, auti, and obu, are names given 
 to different symptoms of bowel disorders, which, 
 though often produced by the nature of their 
 food, ;ire seldom fatal. 
 
 Perioi, signifies a cripple ; of these there are 
 few. 
 
 Avaehape, means bandy-legged ; this defor- 
 mity is also rare, though it is the universal 
 practice to carry young children astride upon 
 the hips. 
 
 Tena, a relic of that loathsome disease which 
 is the scourge of licentiousness, and which was 
 very destructive in these islands after its intro- 
 duction by European visitors. 
 
 Tabu, Scrofula. The word tabu signifies a 
 cut or scar. Many deeply-indented and dis- 
 figured faces and necks bear testimony to the 
 prevalence of this ravager of strength and poi- 
 soner of health. 
 
 Oniho, a kind of small-pox, mild in its form, 
 but leaving the skin pitted. It is infectious, 
 attacks persons of all ages, and the same sub- 
 ject is liable to take it repeatedly. 
 
 Aropoabu, a disease of the neck, resembling 
 the yuitres of Switzerland. We have seen a 
 few prodigious instances of these glandular 
 swellings. 
 
 Feb. 13. Having some leisure at present, we 
 transcribe from our memoranda occasional in- 
 formation on general subjects. We shall here 
 enumerate the few quadrupeds which are found 
 on these islands. 
 
 Buaa, the hog. We have formerly described 
 the only native specimen which we have seen, 
 (ugly, stunted, and small,) and mentioned also 
 that the breed being now nearly extinct, the 
 loss has been more than compensated to the 
 people by the present race, which are a cross 
 between the British and the former, with :m 
 intermixture of the Chinese ; the first and the 
 
 last having been introduced by Captain Cook 
 and other early circumnavigators who touched 
 here. These gluttonous animals, having abun- 
 dance of nutritious food, thrive amazingly, and 
 soon become fat enough for the slaughter. We 
 have seen some weighing twelve or thirteen 
 score pounds. These swine are characterised 
 by their deep flanks, flat bodies, and long tusks. 
 Some of the boars, which run \vild among the 
 mountains, are very formidable if attacked and 
 compelled to act on the defensive. When sur- 
 rounded, they will rush through the ring of 
 their antagonists, striking right and left, and 
 with a single well-directed blow of their sharp 
 tusks, rip the flesh of a man's leg from the bot- 
 tom to the top, or even gore him in the body 
 till the bowels drop out through the wound. 
 
 Uri, the dog. Commodore Wallis and Cap- 
 tain Cook found dogs here. They had long 
 bodies and short legs like our terriers ; but that 
 pure breed is no longer seen, a nondescript 
 tribe having sprung up in their stead from the 
 introduction of " mongrel, puppy, whelp, and 
 hound, and curs of low degree," by foreign 
 vessels. They are generally very ill-lookiug 
 creatures, lean, feeble, and diseased, as might 
 be expected from the wretched fare on which 
 they feed, the refuse of their owners' tables. 
 Yet hydrophobia is unknown. There is no 
 remembrance of a mad dog having ever been 
 seen here, notwithstanding the torrid climate. 
 
 lore, the rat. The native rat is much smaller 
 and of a lighter colour than the English ; but 
 the lore paapa, the foreign rat brought from 
 shipboard is large, and has all the bad qualities 
 of the worst European vermin. 
 
 Moo, the lizard. Reptiles of this species are 
 very numerous ; they are small, beautiful in 
 colouring, and perfectly harmless. 
 
 These four are the only quadrupeds that were 
 aboriginal here. The following have been in- 
 troduced. 
 
 The horse, which the natives called buaa Jioro 
 fenua, the hog * that runs over the ground, 
 when they first saw with what fleetness he could 
 traverse the beach on which he was landed as a 
 present to Pomare. There is but that one of 
 the kind here, which " roams over the plain" 
 at his ease, having never been used for riding, 
 yet he is perfectly gentle. 
 
 The cow, buaa toro. This useful animal was 
 brought hither by the Missionaries, who have, 
 here and at Eimeo, small but improving herds. 
 They thrive well, breed early and fast, and 
 give abundance of milk. The long grass, which 
 they find every where, is excellent food for 
 them, and they are subject to no particular 
 diseases. Several have been killed, and the 
 beef proved very good ; but they are yet too 
 few and precious to be made every-day food. 
 The natives are very much afraid of them. 
 
 The sheep is called here buaa mamoe, the 
 inoffensive hog. There are half a dozen of 
 these animals on the islands, brought hither by 
 the Missionaries, but they are lean, small, and 
 ill-shapen. The climate is too hot, and they 
 will probably never be kept to any advantage. 
 * Buaa seems to be a generic name for a quadruped. 
 
92 A CHRISTIAN ENTERTAINMENT FORMER HEATHEN ENTERTAINMENTS. 
 
 The little tormenting burr called piripiri, ol 
 which we have formerly spoken as a vegetable 
 pest here, sticks to the wool, and gradually 
 forms a close mat about its body, which greatly 
 annoys the poor sheep, and would hinder it 
 from thriving freely were there no other ob 
 struction. 
 
 The goat, called here buaaniho, the hog with 
 horns, was introduced by some of the first 
 ships, and lighted upon a soil and clime en- 
 tirely suited to its wants and habits ; of course 
 it breeds rapidly and grows to a great size. As 
 there is no occasion for woollen clothing here, 
 and the flesh of the goat and her kid is as deli- 
 cate and well-flavoured as mutton and lamb in 
 England, sheep may very well be dispensed 
 with. The goats are exceedingly beautiful 
 creatures, and on the lofty mountains they find 
 green pastures, fresh air, and that freedom in 
 which they delight. Their milk is richer than 
 that of the cow. There are flocks consisting 
 of several hundreds on some of the islands. 
 These are the property of the Missionaries ; 
 but the natives, who at first abhorred them on 
 account of the new and offensive odour to 
 which their nostrils had not been accustomed, 
 begin to manifest an inclination to possess ani- 
 mals in every other respect so useful and desir- 
 able ; and the Missionaries encourage them 
 in this, as in every other wish that may lead 
 them to improve their condition in life. Be- 
 sides, to keep goats there is neither trouble 
 nor expense required. They forage for them- 
 selves. 
 
 The cat, called here tore pii fare, the house- 
 climbing rat ; because when strange cats were 
 brought from ships into the native dwellings, 
 they naturally ran up the wooden walls or bare 
 poles which support the roofs. Cats have now 
 become domesticated. 
 
 Feb. 14. We were this day invited to a pxib- 
 lic dinner, given by the principal chiefs of the 
 island to the members of the Christian church 
 here (as a token and pledge of union among all 
 true believers), whatever were their rank or 
 circumstances in civil society. It was truly a 
 love-feast to welcome the newly baptized among 
 the flock of Christ. The candidates for baptism 
 also were invited to be partakers of the general 
 joy. It was held in a spacious house, a hun- 
 dred and sixty feet long, by forty wide, belong- 
 ing to a distinguished chief named Tiramano. 
 This banqueting room was quite a native 
 structure in the old style, a long roof, resting 
 upon two ranges of pillars, twenty-four on each 
 side, and a row of nine loftier ones down the 
 middle, to support the ridge-pole. At the 
 upper end a table covered with a white cloth, 
 and furnished with knives and forks, also two 
 convenient settees with benches and stools 
 were placed for the accommodation of the royal 
 family, the Missionaries, and ourselves. The 
 whole of the floor beside was occupied by the 
 natives sitting cross-legged in companies, with 
 the food before them spread upon purau-le-ives 
 for plates. The enclosure in front of the house 
 was occupied in a similar way by a portion of 
 the numerous guests. The sight was exceed- 
 
 ingly impressive and delightful, for they were 
 clean in their persons and apparel; pleasure 
 beamed in every countenance, and all were of 
 one heart and one mind, to be happy and to 
 make happy so far as they could. The enter- 
 tainment, consisting of the usual provisions, was 
 well laid out : it was abundant, and all things 
 were done decently and in order, though more 
 than a thousand persons shared in it. Many of 
 the mothers had their young children with 
 them ; yet not a cry was heard. Temau poti iti 
 (the little milk-drinkers, as infants are prettily 
 called here,) behaved as well as their parents, 
 and by their presence added interest and beauty 
 to the scene. In addition to the native luxuries 
 of baked hogs and fruits of every kind that 
 were in season, boiled pork, boiled fowls, fruit 
 pies, and puddings of various kinds were served 
 up course after course at our table. There was 
 such plenty for all the guests, that after heartily 
 enjoying the good cheer, enough remained for 
 the guests to take home with them, and renew 
 the feast another day in their family circles. 
 The residue of our own messes (which were as 
 large as Benjamin's when Joseph entertained 
 his brethren) our servants took care of as their 
 customary perquisite. It is hardly necessary to 
 say, that in such an assembly, when all the 
 dishes had been placed, before any were touched 
 the blessing of God was asked upon the bounty 
 of his providence. After the meal, several of 
 the chiefs, the Missionaries, and ourselves, suc- 
 cessively addressed the company on such topics 
 as the occasion suggested. In conclusion a 
 hymn of praise was sung, and one of the chiefs 
 returned thanks for this day's mercies, and 
 offered up earnest supplication that goodness 
 and mercy might follow his country-people and 
 their teachers, all the days of their lives. Tin- 
 people afterwards quietly dispersed, and in their 
 peaceful dwellings presented their evening sa- 
 crifices at the family altar. 
 
 Feasts were frequent in the times of igno- 
 rance, but they were only for the men ; tin 
 women never being allowed either publicly or 
 privately to sit down with their tyrants, or eat 
 of the same food. Surfeiting, drunkenness, de- 
 bauchery, quarrelling, and murder were the 
 usual felicities and excesses on such occasions. 
 Here there was no riot, no intoxication, no 
 evil-speaking, but in their place temperate re- 
 freshment, cheerful converse, and universal 
 harmony. Yet it would be impossible to ex- 
 press the conflict of emotions, hardly reconcile- 
 able, with which we looked round upon this 
 great assembly, remembering what they had 
 been, and beholding what they were ; and re- 
 flecting that the mere wisdom of man, employed 
 to its utmost power and with its utmost charity 
 through an equal number of years, by agents a 
 hundred fold more gifted in worldly policy than 
 the humble Missionaries who had brought the 
 gospel hither, could have done little towards 
 transforming such a people from savage to 
 civilised society ; nothing in fact, compared 
 with what has been done by " the foolishness 
 of preaching." "VVe could only resolve the 
 moral miracle before our eyes by the declara- 
 
FORM OF ROYAL MESSAGES TAROUARII. 
 
 tion of our Saviour, " The things which are 
 impossible with men are possible with God." 
 
 This feast was given by the voluntary contri- 
 butions of many persons, and designed, as we 
 were informed, among other things, particu- 
 larly to express their happiness in having us 
 (the deputation) among them. One of the 
 speakers said, in the fulness and simplicity of 
 his heart, that he had been praying to the Lord 
 not to let us go away, but keep us here as long 
 as we lived. Feasts were formerly made in 
 this manner by the taniau. The niau is a mes- 
 sage of royal authority, issued sometimes to a 
 single district, and sometimes throughout the 
 whole island. The king's messenger in such 
 case took one of the feather-like branches of 
 the cocoa-nut tree upon his shoulder, or a 
 bundle of the side leaves in his hand. Thus 
 charged with his dispatches, he went from chief 
 to chief, putting into the hands of each a piece 
 of cocoa-leaf four or five inches in length, and 
 delivering with it the royal commands. Each 
 principal chief in like manner communicated 
 the message to those in rank below him ; these 
 to raatiras ; they to their inferiors ;" and the 
 latter to the people at large. By this simple 
 process the whole island was put in motion in 
 the course of a few hours, all classes promptly 
 contributing their quota of provisions towards 
 the great entertainment, or towards carrying 
 into effect the sovereign's wishes whatever they 
 might be. Business done thus is called taniau, 
 or by message. Whoever accepts the bit of 
 cocoa-leaf offered by the messenger thereby 
 signifies his compliance with the royal mandate. 
 Whoever should refuse to accept it would run 
 great risk of being banished to some remote 
 island for his contumacy ; disobedience under 
 such circumstances being " constructive trea- 
 son." 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Two vessels in the offing Tarouarii Projected visit to 
 tin- Marquesas Islands Anna, Matatore, and their 
 \vives, set apart as native missionaries to the Marque- 
 sasBirth of Tarouarii's daughter Two brigs Lm- 
 barkation for the Marquesas Amphibious dexterity of 
 the islanders Nocturnal amenity of the sea Cock- 
 roaches Towaihae bay, Sandwich Islands Motley 
 appearance of natives. 
 
 FEB. 16. Two vessels appeared in the offing 
 at day-break. They proved to be the Mermaid, 
 sixty-one tons burthen, Captain Kent, a small 
 sloop, and the Prince Regent, Captain Brown, 
 a schooner. The latter, seventy tons burthen, 
 had been built at Port Jackson, was a neat 
 copper-bottomed bark, carrying six guns, and 
 was now on its way as a present from the King 
 of England to the sovereign of Owhyhee (Ha- 
 waii), under the convoy of Captain Kent. In 
 the course of the afternoon we went on board, 
 and were very politely received by the captains 
 of both vessels. 
 
 Feb. 17. We accompanied Mr. Ellis on a 
 visit to Tarouarii, King Mahine's daughter-in- 
 law, who expects soon to be the mother of a 
 posthumous child, which if spared to live, will 
 be the future sovereign of Huahine ; its de- 
 
 ceased father having been heir-presumptive to 
 the reigning queen. We were surprised to find 
 this great lady, on whom the hopes of the na- 
 tion are placed, in a small shed about seven feet 
 square, separated from a larger dwelling, for her 
 special convenience on the august occasion of 
 giving birth to a prince. She was reposing 
 upon grass spread over the floor, and there was 
 no other furniture in the apartment but a lamp 
 made of cocoa-nut shell, glimmering with its 
 faint beams upon the ground, and on the posts 
 and rafters which formed the walls and roof, 
 presenting to the eye their deep intersecting 
 shadows, strongly contrasted with the flickering 
 lines and spots of feeble light between. The 
 queen of the island, Hautia, and Hautia Vahine, 
 her father and mother, with another female, 
 were her attendants. The shed stood within a 
 few paces of the sea, and had been purposely 
 chosen according to the approved custom, for 
 the benefit of free air, and to afford her an op- 
 portunity as soon as she should be delivered, 
 to plunge into the sea and there sit in the water 
 for half an hour. This strange, and we might 
 deem perilous practice, to a woman- in such 
 delicate circumstances, is common here ; and 
 we are assured, that in most instances it is the 
 means of restoring strength and animation to 
 the exhausted mother, who frequently goes 
 about her ordinary household business an hour 
 or two after she has come out of the purifying 
 flood. 
 
 Feb. 21. During the last few days we have 
 made an engagement with Captain Kent to 
 carry Mr. Ellis, ourselves, and some native 
 teachers (whom it has been determined by the 
 church here to send thither) to the Marquesan 
 Islands, about a thousand miles distant from 
 these groups. This day was fixed for holding 
 a full religious assembly, to set apart two na- 
 tives willing and qualified to carry Christianity 
 and civilization to the barbarous Marquesans, 
 who are represented as the most ferocious sa- 
 vages in these seas. About twelve hundred 
 persons assembled in the great chapel. After 
 a suitable hymn and prayer, Hautia the regent 
 was called to the chair. Several short addresses 
 were then delivered to the people by the Mis- 
 sionaries and the Deputation, on the nature, 
 importance, and difficulties of the proposed 
 engagement ; the labours, privations, and pe- 
 rils to which those who undertook it would be 
 exposed ; and the only reward to which they 
 must look for such sacrifices the blessing 
 of God upon themselves and the work of their 
 hands, in their benevolent endeavours to com- 
 municate the benefits of the gospel of peace to 
 aliens and enemies perishing for lack of instruc- 
 tion. 
 
 Our late travelling companion, Auna, a prin- 
 cipal chief, formerly a leader among the Areois, 
 and a priest of Hiro, the god of thieves, then 
 stood up in the midst of the meeting. His 
 lofty stature and commanding presence, the 
 sanctity of his regenerated character, and above 
 all (so far as the eye was concerned) his coun- 
 tenance beaming with benignity and intelli- 
 gence, filled every bosom with emotions of awe, 
 
94 
 
 AUNA MATATORE HAUTIA AND THEIR WIVES. 
 
 delight, and expectation. He looked round 
 with an air of unaccustomed anxiety and em- 
 barrassment, and at first perhaps for the first 
 time in his life hesitated in the utterance of 
 his sentiments on a public occasion. At length, 
 with a noble modesty, he began "Mea maitai 
 teie It is a good thing that some of us should 
 go from Huahine to carry the blessings of 
 Christianity to those people who are yet lying 
 in the same ignorance, wickedness, and misery, 
 as we ourselves were but a few years ago. It 
 is our duty, then, to take to the Marquesas that 
 (parau maitai na te atua) good word of God 
 which has been sent to us from (Beretane) 
 Britain by the hands of Missionaries, and which 
 has been made so great a blessing to us. I 
 have, therefore, (parau iti) a little speech to 
 make to the meeting, which is this : if I and 
 my wife might be so favoured as to be sent on 
 this errand to the heathen at the Marquesas 
 but, perhaps, we are not worthy ; yet, if we 
 could be thought suitable for this great and 
 good work, both my wife and I would be 
 very happy to be the bearers of the gospel to 
 those wicked islanders." 
 
 When he had thus spoken he sat down, with 
 the most affecting humility, waiting for the de- 
 cision of the assembly. Hautia, the president, 
 immediately rose, and said, " Auna is the mar. 
 to go !" Others exclaimed, " Auna is the 
 man !" A chief then stood up, and observed, that 
 he also had a little speech on the subject, 
 which was, that Auna was not only the man to 
 go, because he could himself both teach many 
 things, and set the example of all he taught, 
 but because Auna was "a two-handed man :" 
 I he had a good wife, Auna Vahinc, who would 
 help her husband in every pious work, and 
 would also teach the women to read and to 
 pray, to clothe themselves decently, to make 
 their own dresses, plat straw bonnets, manage 
 their families, and bring up their children in 
 the right way. This being universally as- 
 sented to, Auna and his wife were appoint- 
 ed as it were by acclamation, so greatly was 
 the meeting moved the first messengers 
 from this church to their heathen neighbours ; 
 neighbours, in fact, though they dwelt a thou- 
 sand miles off, and neighbours in the language 
 of the gospel, because they loved them as them- 
 selves. 
 
 Another chief was then named, Matatore, 
 a pious, intelligent, and remarkably ingenious 
 man in every kind of work to which he turned 
 his hand. Several of the congregation suc- 
 cessivelystood up, and, in their " little speeches," 
 recommended him and his partner (for he also 
 was "a two-handed man") as suitable fellow- 
 labourers with Auua and his wife. Mata- 
 tore, disclaiming with unaffected diffidence 
 any superior qualifications for the honourable 
 work, added, that if his partner and himself 
 were deemed worthy to be entrusted with it, by 
 the Deputation from Beretane, the Mission- 
 aries, and their Christian country-people, they 
 should be happy to undertake it. The whole 
 congregation then looked towards Hautia, 
 who, to the surprise of every one, remained 
 
 silent, and appeared sad ; his noble countenance 
 expressed much agitation of spirit, and he hesi- 
 tated for a while to unburthen his mind in words. 
 At length he rose, and, with an air of meekness 
 and humility which gave inexpressible grace 
 to the dignity of the high-born island-chief, 
 he said, " I have a little speech, because a 
 thought has grown up in my heart, and it 
 has grown up also in the heart of Hautia Va- 
 hine (his wife). But, perhaps, it is not a 
 good thought; yet I must speak it ; and this is 
 our thought. If the Missionaries, and the De- 
 putation, and the church of Huahine think 
 that I and my wife would be fit companions for 
 Auna and his wife, to teach the good word of 
 God to those idolatrous people who are as we 
 were, and cause them to become as we are here, 
 and in Tahiti, and Eimeo, and Raiatea, and 
 Borabora, we should be rejoiced to go ; but, 
 perhaps we are not worthy, and others may be 
 much better suited for the blessed work; yet 
 we should love to go." 
 
 This declaration from one who, as regent, 
 was virtually king of the island, who held 
 valuable hereditary possessions upon it, as 
 well as received large contributions, to sup- 
 port his royal state, both from chiefs and peo- 
 ple who, besides his political and civil func- 
 tions, filled a wide sphere of usefulness in 
 the church, as superintendent of schools, as 
 patron and promoter of infant ai: 
 thriving industry among his subject- 
 who was himself an example of all that he 
 recommended to others or required of them ; 
 this declaration produced a most extraordinary 
 sensation throughout the whole assembly, but 
 especially in our breasts emotions never to be 
 forgotten nor ever to be recollected without a 
 renewal of the strange and overwhelming de- 
 light which we experienced on witnessing such 
 a proof of the power of divine grace, in making 
 the blind idolater, the stern warrior, the proud 
 chief of a barbarous people, under the influence 
 of a new and regenerating principle, willing 
 to forsake all, deny himself, and take up his 
 cross, that he might follow the Redeemer to 
 regions of despair, where Christ was not named, 
 and where his disciples might expect both " to 
 know the fellowship of his sufferings and to be 
 conformed unto his death." But, having al- 
 ready experienced "the power of his resurrec- 
 tion," " none of these things moved" the vo- 
 luntary candidates for aperilous service; "neither 
 counted t/iey their lives dear unto them, so that 
 they might finish their course with joy, and the 
 ministry which they had received of the Lord 
 Jesus, to testify the gospel of the grace of God.*' 
 Of Hautia and his wife we could not but thus 
 judge. As soon as we had a little recovered 
 from our surprise, we rose and thus addressed 
 the royal pair : " Hautia ! we have heretofore 
 been pleased, beyond our hopes, with 
 thing which we have seen of the happy effects 
 of the gospel, in this island and others, since we 
 arrived from England to visit you. Truly the 
 Lord has caused his good word to grow up 
 among you and bear fruit abundantly. But 
 nothing which we have heard, or seen, or felt, 
 
BIRTH OF TAROUARIFS DAUGHTER. 
 
 has delighted us more than what you have done 
 and said, and made us to enjoy in our own 
 souls this day. It was a good thought that 
 grew up in your own heart it was a good 
 thought that grew up in the heart of our wife, 
 Hautia Yahine ; and we believe that it was 
 God himself who caused the thought to grow in 
 each of you. But we also bejieve that it is his 
 will that we should now say to you, as the pro- 
 phet, in the name of the Lord, said unto David 
 (whose history and character you know) when 
 he desired * to build an house for the name of 
 the Lord God of Israel ;' Thou didst well that 
 it was in thine heart ; nevertheless thou shalt not 
 build the house, but thy son shall build it.' 
 We say, therefore, it is well that it was in your 
 hearts to go to the Marquesan Islands on this 
 errand of mercy ; yet you must not go your- 
 selves ; others must do that good work. Hautia, 
 God hath placed you here as king, in a station 
 of the highest honour and most extensive use- 
 fulness. Here you have great influence, and 
 that influence you employ largely for his glory 
 and for the benefit of your people. Here you 
 are a nursing father, and Hautia Vahine is a 
 nursing mother to the church. Here you are a 
 terror to evil doers and a praise to them that do 
 well. In no other place could you do so much 
 good, by authority, by precept, by persuasion, 
 and by example, as you are necessarily doing 
 here, in the exercise of that power and those 
 talents with which you have been invested. 
 We again say that we are glad that the thought 
 did grow up in your heart ; but we believe that 
 the Lord says to you, by us, you must not go 
 on this mission, for He hath need of you here. 
 Other chiefs (as deputies from you and your 
 subjects) may be as useful among the ferocious 
 Marquesans as you could be whereas, in 
 Huahine, none can equal you in usefulness." 
 Hautia, deeply affected, replied: "Since you 
 say so, perhaps it is the Lord's will that we 
 should not go to the Marquesas, but stay in 
 Huahine ; perhaps we may serve him better 
 here. Be it so ; and yet I wish that it had 
 fallen to me and my wife to go." 
 
 Anna andMatatore and their wives were then 
 set apart to this new ministry in special prayer, 
 by Mr. Ellis ; after which while they yet re- 
 mained kneeling at the table in the front of the 
 pulpit, Mr. Barff delivered to them a solemn 
 charge respecting their future duties among the 
 heathen to whom they were thus ordained to 
 preach the unsearchable riches of Christ. The 
 whole service was concluded with singing and 
 prayer; and the people departed with hearts 
 that burned within them, both with affection 
 towards the friends from whom they were thus 
 parting, and with humble thankfulness to God 
 that they were permitted to give up those who 
 were most deservedly dear to them to his ser- 
 vice and to the heathen, to bring them to the 
 knowledge of the truth. 
 
 Feb. 23. This day Tarouarii, Mahine's wi- 
 dowed daughter-in-law, became the mother of a 
 posthumous child. To the disappointment of 
 the families to which she was allied the infant 
 was a girl ; but though a boy had been anxiously 
 
 desired, both by chiefs and people, recognising 
 as they now do, a divine superintending Provi- 
 dence, they soon soothed their minds into ac- 
 quiescence, and are contented to believe that 
 this will be for the best. Yolleys of musketry 
 were fired repeatedly in the course of the day, 
 in honour of the birth of the princess, and in 
 hope that she their only hope in the direct 
 line may live to be the future queen of Hua- 
 hine. The wife of one of the Missionaries was 
 sent for immediately, to dress the babe in the 
 English fashion, as it has been determined, on 
 every occasion, to conform as nearly as possible 
 to the manners and customs of the nation which 
 has sent them spiritual fathers and instructors 
 in righteousness. 
 
 Captain Walker, of the Dragon brig, and 
 Captain Hunter of the Macquarrie, both came 
 into the harbour this morning. Here, then, 
 for the first time since a European ship was 
 seen in these waters, there are four vessels at 
 anchor at the same time. Four hundred in a 
 British port would not excite greater curiosity 
 and admiration. We have just been told that 
 Captain Walker, with some of his crew, having 
 landed on one of the multitude of little islands 
 with which these latitudes are spotted, and 
 having taking on shore with them a goat, the 
 people at once imagining it must be a god, 
 flocked round it to gratify their curiosity and 
 show their veneration, no such animal having 
 been ever seen there before. The goat, feeling 
 itself incommoded by their handling and crowd- 
 ing, began to manifest its displeasure butting 
 at one child, knocking down another, and pur- 
 suing a third, so that the groiip were soon put 
 to flight. Alarmed and enraged at this hostile 
 conduct of the new god, the people appeared 
 about to take vengeance on the strangers ; but, 
 before they had wrought up their minds to 
 make an attack, the captain and some of his 
 party, by a singular stratagem, contrived to 
 amuse the enemy till they could safely venture 
 to turn their backs upon them. Having some 
 razors in their possession for traffic, they made 
 signs that they would shave any of the people 
 that wished to be so accommodated. This was 
 eagerly accepted, and one man after another 
 offered his chin, which was quickly cleared of 
 the stubble, the sailors gradually retreating, till, 
 having reached the shore, they leaped into their 
 boat and rowed away. 
 
 Feb. 25. The last three days having been 
 employed in making preparations for our voy- 
 age, and taking leave of our friends, English and 
 native, here, we embarked with Captain Kent 
 about noon. A breeze from the east quickly 
 carried our little sloop, and its associate the 
 schooner, out of Fare harbour. Before night- 
 fall the heights of Huahine had vanished, and 
 we were once more upon the broad ocean, 
 committing ourselves, in fervent and believing 
 prayer, to His guidance " whom winds and 
 seas obey." Our ship is little more than sixty 
 tons burthen. Our company consists of twelve 
 persons ; namely the Deputation (Messrs. Ty- 
 erman and Bennet), Mr. Ellis, Auna and Ma- 
 tatore, and their wives, and our Tahitian ser- 
 
96 NOCTURNAL AMENITY OF THE SEA A BOY FALLS OVERBOARD. 
 
 vants. Our provisions, both live stock and 
 vegetables, occupy considerable room ; so that, 
 with the captain and crew, both deck and 
 cabins are well peopled and tilled. 
 
 Feb. 28. The wind having been very light, 
 and somewhat variable, our progress has not 
 been rapid, but quite pleasant to the feelings of 
 those of us who have been accustomed to the 
 motion of a ship. This day one of our finest 
 store hogs fell overboard, not having yet got his 
 " sea-legs," we presume a happy phrase to 
 express the oscillating gait of persons accus- 
 tomed to walk on deck with a motion corre- 
 sponding to the swing of the vessel. While the 
 sailors were lowering a boat to recover the un- 
 fortunate animal, two of our Tahitian servants 
 leaped after it, and brought it close under the 
 ship's side, where they fastened a rope round 
 its body, by which it was presently hauled upon 
 deck. The dexterity of these people in the 
 water is surprising. Men, women, and chil- 
 dren, can all swim and dive ; indeed, infants 
 are so early taught these necessary accomplish- 
 ments of a half-amphibious life that they some- 
 times excel iu them before they can walk. On 
 a certain occasion, as our Missionary friends at 
 Huahine, with their children, were crossing the 
 upper part of the bay at Fare, their canoe was 
 suddenly upset, when they and several helpless 
 infants were plunged at once into deep water. 
 The queen, a woman of vast bulk, being near at 
 hand, and perceiving their danger, immediately 
 threw herself into the lagoon, swam to their as- 
 sistance, and with her own hands saved the life 
 of one of the party from destruction. A female 
 servant followed the children, caught them in 
 her aims, and swam to shore with her rescued 
 treasures, which she delivered safely into the 
 hands of their overjoyed parents, themselves 
 just snatched from death by their wonted in- 
 trepidity, habitual presence of mind, and fear- 
 lessness of peril, in situations where the fear it- 
 self probably constitutes the chief part of the 
 danger. 
 
 Nothing can exceed the salubrity of the at- 
 mosphere in these regions during the night- 
 time. So soon as the sun goes down, the 
 temperature becomes agreeable and refreshing. 
 Elsewhere, between the tropics, heavy dews are 
 wont to follow the oppressive heat of day, and 
 render any exposure of the person to the night- 
 breeze dangerous. Here there is no humidity 
 that need be dreaded. We have been repeat- 
 edly, during our insular circumnavigations, 
 whole nights upon the water, in open boats, 
 without experiencing either damp or chill, or 
 observing any clamminess upon our clothing or 
 the rigging of our scallop-shell vessels. Hence 
 the islanders frequently sleep upon the ground, 
 under the open sky, without fearing or feeling 
 any inconvenience. On board of European 
 ships, also, the sailors, in these seas, lie down 
 to rest on the bare deck with the same im- 
 punity. The most delicate constitution may 
 luxuriate in breathing the pure, mild, midnight 
 air of these voluptuous climes. 
 
 March 7. (South lat. 7 58'. West long. 
 153 7".) We have been becalmed for the last 
 
 two days. The dulness of the scene was inter- 
 rupted this morning, by the approach of a large 
 shark to the vessel, sufficiently near, to its own 
 cost, to be harpooned, and hauled on board. It 
 measured eight feet four inches in length, and 
 proved to be a female. When opened, eleven 
 young ones, each two feet three inches long, 
 were taken out of two wombs within her. She 
 seemed to be near the time of regular parturi- 
 tion ; for, when separated from their dam, they 
 floundered about the deck, with great strength 
 and vivacity, for a considerable while. After 
 the mother-shark had been cut quite in sunder, 
 across the middle, and received several heavy 
 blows from a large hatchet, wielded by a power- 
 ful man, she still writhed in her death-pangs, 
 and opened and closed her jaws with spasmodic 
 force so frightfully tenacious are these animals 
 of life. The islanders say that immediately be- 
 fore the females bring forth their young they are 
 particularly savage and voracious ; they are 
 then, also, most daring in their attacks, and 
 most difficult to subdue, or to kill when resist- 
 ance on their part is vain. It was horrible to 
 look upon the massacre on our deck, of sui-h a 
 parent and her numerous progeny, infuriated 
 with pain, and burning with life, 'till the final 
 spark became extinct in the last drop of blood 
 that coagulated. 
 
 March 11. (S. lat. 8 42'. W. long. 148 
 41'. Therm. 83.) W r e have made little pro- 
 gress. Variable winds, and rains occasionally, 
 have exercised our patience, but it is n<t 
 for us to choose our course at s.-a any more 
 than " it is in man that walketh to direct his 
 steps." 
 
 March 15. A native New Holland boy an 
 orphan, whose father was drowned, and whu>e. 
 mother died while he was young, whom our 
 captain has kindly taken into his service fell 
 overboard, this morning, unperceived l>y any 
 body, till his cries, as he followed the ship, 
 swimming with desperate but unequally- 
 matched exertion, to overtake her, summoned 
 all hands that could be employed to his assist- 
 ance. Again, as in the case of the hog, while 
 the boat was launching, our two Tahitian 
 servants flung themselves into the sea, with a 
 rope. When they met the poor lad among the 
 waves resolutely buffeting them, but almost 
 exhausted the one received him upon his back, 
 and the other swimming beside, they thus 
 brought him to the boat, which took up all 
 three, and they were soon safe on board. This 
 youth, like his countrymen, goes almost entirely 
 naked, and cannot be persuaded to encumber 
 himself with clothes. His hair is brown, and 
 the colour of his skin like that of the Tahitians, 
 but darker, probably from continual exposure 
 to the elements. His escape was \, i v n-marka- 
 ble. On inquiring we learned that he fell over- 
 board from the lee bow. He had, therefore, 
 gone clean under the vessel, and been borne up 
 at the weather quarter, when first disn 
 Had he come up astern, it is probable that lie 
 must have : perished before he was missed, no 
 one being there to be alarmed by his shrieks. 
 He was washing himself, as was his custom, by 
 

LUMINOUS TRACTS IN THE SEA JOHN ADAMS, OF HAWAII. 
 
 drawi. ig up buckets of sea-water, and throwing 
 them 'Over his body, when he lost his balance, 
 and fell headlong into the deep. 
 
 March 16. Yesterday the sun was vertical 
 to-day we have passed him, and, after long 
 witne ssing his daily course through the north, 
 again j behold him, as in. our native country, to 
 the so nth of us. We have not been more than 
 ten months absent from England, yet this is the 
 fourth time that we have come under his ver- 
 tical rays. This track of ocean is remarkably 
 full c f the nocturnal spangles which we have 
 noticed elsewhere. Millions of these efflores- 
 cences of fiame, as they seem to the eye, pass 
 the sides of the vessel every moment, and form 
 in her wake a train of brilliancy such as 110 
 comet, in its perihelium, ever drew " o'er half 
 the heavens." Beautiful illuminations of the 
 same kind, whatever be their nature, are fre- 
 quently seen at a great depth in the clear water, 
 which in the night-time becomes jet black. 
 Often through this dark but limpid medium 
 have we amused ourselves by tracking the routes 
 of large fishes, such as porpoises or sharks, 
 gleaming along in lines of light beneath the 
 abyss, itself invisible with gloom. These, like 
 coruscations of a submarine aurora, might 
 sometimes be discovered at far distances, 
 shooting and disappearing, slowly or suddenly, 
 according to the courses of the sea-monsters, 
 each of which, like the leviathan of Scripture, 
 " makcth a path to shine after him; one would 
 think the deep to be hoary." Job xli. 32. 
 
 March 17. The minutest circumstances rela- 
 tive to animal life, even in its lowest classes, 
 are worthy of record. Last night, about ten 
 o'clock, hundreds of cockroaches issued, at the 
 same instant, from all their hiding-places in the 
 cabin, and began to fly about. In the course 
 of a few minutes they all retired again, without 
 assigning any reason (which we could under- 
 stand) for their spontaneous and simultaneous 
 irruption or retreat. Some on board said it 
 was a sign of rain, but none fell in the night, 
 nor is there yet any less ambiguous sign of such 
 downfall in the sky. 
 
 March 20. (N. lat. 5 40'. W. long. 149 
 14'.) At noon we had a strong squall, accom- 
 panied by heavy rain from the east. Since the 
 evening when the cockroaches swarmed out of 
 their holes in the cabin, to take an airing by 
 candle-light, and re-tired as unaccountably as 
 they came, the weather has certainly changed 
 from almost unbroken calm and drought to fits 
 of wind and showers, with sluggish intervals, 
 when air and ocean seem alike inert and impo- 
 tent to speed our way. 
 
 March 28. At three o'clock p. m. land ap- 
 peared right ahead, that is, wearing west, dis- 
 tance about twenty leagues ; and, though clouds 
 covered the highest mountains, the lower 
 ranges, to a great extent, were distinctly visible. 
 We could not doubt, from our observations, 
 that this was one of the Sandwich Islands, our 
 north latitude being 19 23', and west longi- 
 tude 154 5'. This was a joyful sight to all on 
 board. Towards evening we lost it again, the 
 fog being considerable ; but the loom of land 
 
 was, nevertheless, cognizable by the thick dark 
 clouds overhanging it. 
 
 March 29. Having lain- to in the night, at 
 break of day the land was clearly seen about 
 fifteen miles off, though the eminences were 
 still shrouded in thick vapour. As we ap- 
 proached, the coast seemed to be rock-bound, 
 the waves dashing at the bottom of the cliffs. 
 These might be a hundred feet in average 
 height; while beyond them the land sloped 
 gradually up to ten times that elevation, green, 
 and occasionally studded with clumps of trees. 
 This declivity was rent into ravines, opening 
 towards the sea, artd manifestly furrowed by 
 fierce cataracts in rainy seasons. When we had 
 proceeded about ten miles along the coast, its 
 character changed into sterner magnificence, the 
 cliffs rising to five hundred feet, and being more 
 deeply indented with vast chasms, of which the 
 black and almost perpendicular fronts wore 
 brilliantly enlivened with numerous cascades, 
 rolling, as their course lay, over rocky beds, 
 oblique or abrupt, in all the forms that water 
 can assume rushing through steep or straitened 
 channels. 
 
 By the time that we had reached Towaihae 
 bay, the wind fell, and we were perfectly be- 
 calmed. This bay forms the segment of a large 
 circle, receding about a mile inwai'd, but of 
 much more considerable width, having three 
 stately mountains at its head, whose bases come 
 down to the sea. Along the ridge of one of 
 these were several streaks of snow, though the 
 height was not so great as to warrant the expect- 
 ation of so rare i spectacle in these tropical 
 regions. 
 
 In the dusk of the evening a personage of 
 some importance came off to us from the shore, 
 in a boat of four oars, who called himself John 
 Adams. He is a native of Hawaii, and said 
 that he was governor of the island in tin* ab- 
 sence of the king. He was a very stout man, 
 much resembling the superior chiefs of Tahiti, 
 (who are distinguished far above the common- 
 alty by their " limbs of giant mould,") but of a 
 much swarthier complexion than they. Our 
 visitor was dressed in European costume, with 
 jacket and trousers. He informed us that 
 Itihoriho, the reigning king, resides at present 
 on another island of the cluster, called Oahu 
 (Woahoo, as it is generally written), that lie has 
 five wives, and drinks an immoderate quantity 
 of ardent spirits. Various scraps of local intel- 
 ligence this John Adams very freely communi- 
 cated ; and as he speaks English (which he 
 learnt from the American visitors and residents, 
 though he can neither read nor write) suffi- 
 ciently well for the purpose of gossiping con- 
 versation, we found no difficulty in talking with 
 him. As he wished to go with us to Kearakekua 
 bay, the captain permitted him to remain on 
 board, and he sent back his attendants with the 
 boat. 
 
 March 30. The wind having gone down, we 
 were detained in the bay. Several canoes came 
 from the shore, crowded with persons of both 
 sexes, who manifested considerable curiosity at 
 the sight of our two little vessels though 
 
 ir 
 
98 FIRST LANDING ON HEATHEN GROUND RECEPTION ON SHORE. 
 
 European and American ships of far greater 
 burthen are no rarities here but they brought 
 us nothing either for presents or for sale. They 
 are evidently in personal appearance of an in- 
 ferior race to our Tahitians ; though probably 
 hardier in their habits, and certainly more 
 savage in their dispositions, not having yet ex- 
 perienced the transforming and softening influ- 
 ence of that Christianity which has improved 
 the inhabitants of the Society Isles almost, as 
 much to the eye as in the spirit of their mind. 
 Most of these visitors wore their fine curled 
 hair long on the top of their heads, which had a 
 graceful appearance. We scarcely observed 
 one of them who had not lost three or four 
 front teeth, either in the upper or lower jaw, 
 which much disfigured their mouths. John 
 Adams says, that when a particular friend or 
 near relative dies, they usually knock out a 
 few of these, in token of their affection. He 
 himself had lost two, which he had sacrificed to 
 the memory of the late king Tamehameha. 
 
 March 31. Being still becalmed,' here, John 
 Adams's boat brought us a fresh supply of 
 cocoa-nuts, sugar-canes, and a calabash of 
 water, from the shore. This present was \n\ 
 acceptable, and soon furnished employment for 
 all on board. It was amusing to see Avith what 
 relish our Tahitians, after a month's abstinence 
 (or rather penance on sea-stores,) enjoyed a 
 meal of their o\vn sweet food, though both the 
 canes and the o.coas were inferior to those of 
 their native soil. The hogs, the goats the 
 fowls, and tin- \cr\ do^s, which had fared in- 
 diiTerently enough on hoard, all came in for 
 their -hare of (he delicious repast. So many 
 mouths, and so many kinds of appetite, were 
 brought, to bear upon the crude provisions, that 
 while- one ate one part, and another another, 
 scarcely a fragment was left : le:m-s and stalks, 
 shells and husks, hein^ greedily devoured by 
 this or that class of guests, at an entertainment 
 where each might, have said ( in their own par- 
 ticular dialect) to any other of the company, 
 "Hail fellow! well m'. t '." 
 
 Being yet unable to proceed to our proposed 
 harbour, we went on shore, and for the first 
 time set foot on a heathen soil. Ti 
 thoiight went to our hearts and through them, 
 exciting emotions which we shall not pretend to 
 particulari/.e. Here, where the gospel as yet 
 has done but little in its spiritual dlccis, we 
 were taught to estimate, more truly than we 
 could even upon the spot, how much it has 
 done in the Society Islands. The contrast was 
 powerful, and it was saddening ; yet not with- 
 out hope. 
 
 The natives flocked to the water-side when 
 we landed, shouting, exulting, and running to- 
 wards us from all quarters. On the beach we 
 were met by an old man, bearing in bis band 
 a small white stick newly peeled of the bark, 
 with a green leaf stuck transversely at the top. 
 This we took to be either a wand of oih'ce or 
 an emblem of peace. It was probably both, 
 for the patriarch conducted ns very courteously 
 to the residence of the principal chief of the 
 district. This personage and his wife were 
 
 sitting on one side of the entrance, and rec eived 
 us in the most friendly manner, but without 
 rising. The house consisted of one very large 
 apartment, having wide folding-doors at each 
 end, but without windows. The floor was 
 handsomely carpeted with mats. On thei;e we 
 seated ourselves cross-legged, according to the 
 style of the country. Both the folding- loors 
 were then thrown open, and the natives, young 
 and old, unceremoniously rushed in, to - 
 the strangers. Everything appeared disadvan- 
 tageously different from what we had been ac- 
 customed to see in the Christianized islands. 
 The women wore no covering except a ; lii;ht 
 cloth about their lions ; while a peculiar kind 
 of head-dress gave them a very odd appea -ance. 
 The hair in front was left about two .nches 
 long, and made to stand upright by being daub- 
 ed with a composition of lime and water. One 
 girl, in addition to this grotesque toupee, had 
 bound her long natural tresses into a pig-tail. 
 The hair of our host was tied in a knot upon 
 the crown of his head, and a corresponding 
 knot was made of his beard under the chin. 
 His consort's locks were not drilled with dirty 
 powder, like those of the other females ; but 
 her legs, and various parts of her person, were 
 superbly tatooed. The only ornament in the 
 house was a print, taken from Cook's ^ 
 of a man and woman of this island. \ 
 repast heim: set before us, which consisted of 
 cocoa-nuts, a liquor prepared from the sugar- 
 cane, tasting like cider, a pudding of some kind 
 of farinaceous paste, and pieces of an insipid 
 root, several feet loiiir, :md as thick as a man's 
 le-r. unknown to us, we took a little . : 
 ami then walked out, accompanied by -the chief 
 himself, to the neighbouring village. 
 
 The inhabitants presented a HP 
 ance, from the disgusting scantiness c>- 
 
 :u most of them, and the prep- 
 fashion of it in others. One man, who had an 
 English shirt on, gave us to understand that he 
 was a priest, and pointed to the 1 adjacent marae, 
 at which hi- otliciated. This idolatrous temple 
 was built upon a projection of lava ; and large 
 masses of the same sub-: .tiered about 
 
 the houses and the sea-shore. On eit! 
 of the \illage, two vast ri\ers of lava, a quarter 
 of a mile wide, reaching from the mountain- 
 heights to the water, and of prodk'ous thick- 
 ness, showed the tracks of devast:.,;n which 
 they had respectively followed, when, molten 
 and burning, they bad been cast forth from the 
 adjacent crater, which reared its head amidst 
 the bright and genial heaven, far above the 
 green and fruitful earth, on which it had stamped 
 the curse of everlasting sterility ever si 
 igneous torrent had, from its mouth, rolled over 
 the land. 
 
 The houses were all built according to one 
 uncouth model, bearing very little resemblance 
 to theTahitian dwellings. They have no side- 
 walls, but are, in fact, mere thatched 
 rest inu: on the ground, and shaped like the top 
 of a haystack in Knirhind. On the brach we 
 found a company of nearly thirty persons sit- 
 ting in a circle, with their laces inward, all ap- 
 
KEARAKEKUA BAY THE RATTLE-STICK PERFORMER. 
 
 9!) 
 
 patently paying the most humble deference to a 
 female .who occupied the chief place, and who 
 was not ungracefully attired in a scarlet woollen 
 under-dress, of European manufacture, and an 
 upper rohe of fine native cloth. She wore, 
 also, a curious necklace, composed of a great 
 number of flat circular black beads, fastened 
 upon a thick cord, which was tied behind ; a 
 crooked ornament, made of the tooth of the 
 spermaceti whale (Physeter macrocephalus),* 
 being suspended in front. Over her bosom, 
 also, was slung a small looking-glass, by a slip 
 of brown list. Her demeanour was remarkably 
 modest. We learned that she was the woman 
 of highest rank in the village. 
 
 March 31. We are just arrived in Keara- 
 kekua Bay, where Captain Cook lost his life. 
 It was like entering a British harbour; here 
 being no less than eleven American whalers, 
 from 300 to 350 tons burthen each. Numerous 
 canoes immediately flocked round our anchor- 
 age, whicli is within a quarter of a mile of the 
 beach. These came, not from idle curiosity, 
 but to offer their merchandize and provisions, 
 of various kinds, for sale. All the American 
 captains visited us, in the course of the day, 
 with the most hospitable offers of any thing which 
 we might want and their ships could supply. 
 Many native women and girls having come on 
 board to see our Tahitian female friends, the 
 latter, perceiving how much the Hawaiians 
 were gratified with their personal attire, took 
 the opportunity frankly to reprove them for ap- 
 pearing abroad with so little clothing on ; as- 
 suring them that in the southern islands no 
 modest woman durst go out of doors so unbe- 
 comingly exposed. They added, moreover, 
 " and we will not acknowledge you to be 
 women if you do not dress more decently." 
 The dialects of both nations are so nearly akin 
 that the natives can converse very well with 
 one another. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 I Landing at the Point where v Captain Cook was killed 
 Native Huts The Rattle-stick Performer Incidental 
 
 Entertainment by American Captains Coast 
 Population Mr. Young Idolatry abolished in the 
 Sandwich Islands in 1819 Intoxication and Smoking 
 Native Aniu>einents Salt-works Licentiousness 
 Irregularity of Seasons Providential Deliverance from 
 the upsetting of a\Vhale-boat Want of Water Sterility 
 of the Land Animals Cooking Canoes Various 
 Sandwich Notice* Landing at Oahu Introduction to 
 Rihoriho, King of the Islands, and his Court Ame- 
 rican Missionaries. 
 
 APRIL 2. We landed this morning near the 
 point where Captain Cook fell, and were con- 
 ducted to the rock on which he stood when he 
 received the fatal wound. It is part of the 
 volcanic scoria, which encrusts much of the sur- 
 face of this section of the island, and occasion- 
 ally runs out, as here, into the sea. A small 
 native house, and some stunted cocoa-nut 
 trees, are the landmarks of a spot at which the 
 eye of every stranger who visits this coast will 
 
 These are found from sixty to ninety feet in length ; 
 they have teeth only in the lower jaw, which fit into 
 bony sockets in the upper. 
 
 look with intense curiosity and interest, and of 
 which every reader of the voyages of the great 
 circumnavigator will have his own ideal pic- 
 ture ; and this, however little like the reality, 
 must be far more distinct than such creations 
 of fancy often are, from the minute descriptions 
 of the scene, and details of the tragic event, 
 repeatedly given to the public by the eye-wit- 
 nesses of the latter and the visitors of the former. 
 We need not dwell on either* The bay is about 
 three miles across in the widest, and two in the 
 narrowest, direction. 
 
 The neighbouring village consists of about 
 sixty huts ; all, except two or three, exceedingly 
 mean, and the circumstances of the inhabitants 
 proportionally wretched. We crept into one 
 of these hovels, through a hole in the side, 
 which required that we should stoop nearly 
 double to get admittance. Though all was 
 slovenly within, there were various articles of 
 domestic convenience, such as calabashes, stools, 
 mats, &c. Observing, among other things, a 
 stick rather neatly fashioned, five feet long, and 
 tapering to a point at each end, with a -hole to- 
 wards one of these, we inquired the use of it. 
 On this, the master of the house, an old man, 
 started up, and produced a companion-stick, 
 something shorter, which we found was to be 
 to it what the bow is to the fiddle. Grasping 
 the first by the middle, he began to beat upon 
 it with the second, while a boy, with two other 
 corresponding sticks, did the same, to some- 
 thing like measured time, which the master 
 kept with his left foot. This miserably mono- 
 tonous clatter of sticks, which was anything 
 but music, was accompanied, by both minstrels, 
 with noises which were anything but singing ; 
 the old man, all the while, writhing his limbs 
 and distorting his visage in the most grossly 
 ludicrous manner, which it would be as difficult 
 to describe as it will be to forget. Brutes never 
 make themselves ridiculous ; that is the peculiar 
 prerogative of men. The former, in their 
 strangest vagaries, act according to nature ; while 
 the latter, in trying to go beyond her, redder 
 themselves contemptible in the eyes of others, 
 just in proportion as they excel in their own. 
 
 Proceeding along the beach, over an immense* 
 bed of lava, we arrived at a marae of great ex- 
 tent, now neglected, and falling into ruins. It 
 consisted of an enclosure of rough stone walls, 
 a hundred feet square and six feet high, within 
 which cocoa-nut trees are growing, and idol- 
 images stood. Two of the latter remain on the 
 north-east side. These are notched posts, 
 twelve feet high, across the middle of each of 
 which something to resemble a human face has 
 been carved, of monstrous size and uncouth 
 features, once regarded with awe and veneration 
 worthy of men who could think such bugbears 
 divinities. They affect to know better now, 
 and profess to have renounced all their idols. 
 To say the truth, they have done this literally ; 
 but their escape from the superstitions of their 
 ancestors as yet amounts to no more than this : 
 that he who formerly worshipped an idol, 
 " which is nothing in the world," now worships 
 " nothing in the world," not even an idol. 
 
 H 2 
 
100 RELICS OF CAPTAIN COOK WORSHIPPED MR. YOUNG, A SETTLER. 
 
 In the course of our ramble our guide pointed 
 out the hollow, in the volcanic mass, where 
 the body of Captain Cook was roasted, and, a 
 little further on, the place where his arms and 
 legs were submitted to the same process. This 
 was, in fact, the highest honour that his mur- 
 derers (with the inconsistency of savages) could 
 show to his remains ; the corpses of their kings 
 and chiefs being prepared in a similar manner, 
 that the flesh might be more easily separated 
 from the bones, and the skeleton afterwards 
 be put together and preserved, as an object not 
 only of reverence, but even of religious homage. 
 The relics of Cook were thus worshipped in a 
 temple of Rono, one of the gods of Hawaii, of 
 whom the people had a notion that the British 
 navigator was the representative, if not au in- 
 carnation of him. The torrent of lava, now 
 fixed as adamant, must have rolled in treincn- 
 dous force and quantity from the far-distant 
 and elevated crater to the coast, being at this 
 place two miles in breadth, of great thirkn.-s 
 and presenting a surface of utter desolation. 
 In a cavern which we passed we found a quan- 
 tity of unfinished cloth, and the wooden instru- 
 ments with which it is beaten out of bark. 
 Hard by was a little walled enclosure, where 
 we were told that the body of an American was 
 interred, who, for some offence given to the is- 
 landers, had been stoned to death. In a native 
 burying-ground adjacent, over one grave a pole 
 had been erected, on the top of which \\eiv 
 suspended, according to the native usage, two 
 bags of provisions for the deceased, which, how- 
 ever, he had left behind him on the long journey 
 whither he had gone, T and whence he could not 
 return to take anything out of his house. 
 
 "We dined this day with all the American cap- 
 tains, on board the Planta, Captain Coffin, and 
 were treated with great hospitality. H, sides 
 the twelve ships now at anchor here, there are 
 seven others visible in the ofRng, and endea- 
 vouring to get in. The commerce with these 
 islands, through the American whalers, and 
 certain other vessels which come hither prin- 
 cipally to obtain sandal-wood for the China 
 market, is very considerable. 
 
 In our excursion this day we counted 
 twenty-nine villages, containing, as nearly as 
 might he ascertained by cursory inspection, six- 
 teen hundred :md forty-four dwellings, which, 
 computing five persons to a family, give a po- 
 pulation of eight thousand two hundred and 
 twenty, in a line of twelve miles along the 
 shore. 
 
 Mr. Young, to whom we have been intro- 
 duced to-day, and who has resided thirty-six 
 years on this island, informs us that the whole 
 circuit of coast is equally well peopled, but that 
 there are comparatively few inhabitants re- 
 siding more inland, among the woods and 
 mountains, where the climate is colder and the 
 soil less productive. 
 
 Mr. Young, above-named, whom we met at 
 the governor's house, is now seven) 
 years of age. He was made prisoner here at 
 first, but has voluntarily remained for nearly 
 half of his long life ; having found favour with 
 
 kings, chiefs, and people, among whom in 
 reality he soon became a great and influential 
 character. He is yet warmly attached to Eng- 
 land, as his native country, and has had it in 
 his power, on many occasions, to render essen- 
 tial services to vessels touching on these shores. 
 For nine years he was governor of Hawaii, 
 during the absence of the king. He is married 
 to a native woman, by w r hom he has had six 
 children. Accompanied by him we visited a 
 neighbouring maraej which, like other obsolete 
 abominations of the kind, is now a ruin. A 
 house has been built on that part where the 
 corpse of the late king was laid, previous to the 
 flesh being taken from the bones, the latter dis- 
 tributed among his principal chiefs, and the 
 former committed to the flames, according to 
 ancient usage. At this funeral pyre five hun- 
 dred dogs were sacrificed with the royal re- 
 mains a holocaust of no mean value, when it 
 is considered that such animals constitute the 
 most precious article of food to the rich and 
 luxurious in these islands. 
 
 From this marae we went to the house 
 where, in the year 1819, idolatry was abolished, 
 by the present king Rihoriho, at a feast given 
 by him in commemoration of his late father, 
 Tamehameha. In this large building, n 
 hundred feet long by thirty broad, s> 
 tables were set for the men and the ^\ 
 the latter being held, if possible, in more con- 
 tempt in the Sandwich than in the Society 
 Islands. "When all the guests (including many 
 foreigners from ships or residing in the vicinit\ ) 
 were in their places, and ready to fall upon the 
 abundant provisions 'spread before them, lin- 
 king rose up and said to Mr. Yonnir, " Cut up 
 those fowls and that pig ;" which being done, 
 instead of partaking with tlio company of his 
 own sex, he suddenly started off, and wont to 
 the women's table, where, settling himself !>\ 
 his queens and their attendants, he b 
 eat with a fury of appetite that showed be w.ts 
 doing violence to himself, but determined, 
 whatever might be the issue, to overcome both 
 superstitious fear and habitual repugnance at 
 doing what had heretofore been deemed unlaw- 
 ful, and not to be attempted but at the peril of 
 life sacrilege itself not being more abhorrent 
 to the gods than the condescension of lordly 
 man to eat of the same food, at the same table, 
 as his bosom-slave, woman. The whole native 
 assembly was struck with horror and < 
 nation at the sight, but, no harm to the king 
 ensuing, they at length cried out, with one 
 voice, " The tabu is broken ! The eating-tabu 
 is broken!" "When the feast was ended the 
 king issued his commands that all the maraes 
 should be destroyed, the idols overthrown, and 
 the priesthood abolished. Thus, in a day, a 
 nation abjured its false gods, though, ; 
 they know not the living and true God. Here, 
 then, was a people without religion, but wait- 
 ing till the only true one should be brought to 
 them. It is remarkable that the American Mis- 
 sionaries, bringing what they wanted, were on 
 their voyage at that very time-, and soon after- 
 wards landed on a shore prepared to receive 
 
IDOLATRY ABOLISHED IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS SALT-WORKS. 101 
 
 them. The priests, a reprobate gang of im- 
 postors banded together to deceive the mul- 
 titude and rule even the princes, were enraged 
 at this sudden revolution by which their craft 
 was prohibited. Availing themselves of the 
 influence which they possessed, they stirred up 
 an insurrection so formidable that it required 
 the utmost force of the king to encounter them 
 in the field. A terrible battle was fought, in 
 which the leader of the idolatrous party, a 
 priest, named Trimaga, being slain, covered 
 with wounds, and his wife also falling at his 
 side, with arms in her hands, by a death as heroic 
 as his own, the rebels fled, after a conflict of six- 
 and-thirty hours. They afterwards submitted, 
 favourable terms of peace being granted to 
 them, and the king's authority has thencefor- 
 ward been universally recognised. 
 
 The right of the soil here belongs solely to 
 the king, and his subjects hold their portions 
 on payment of certain taxes, or rents, of dogs, 
 hogs, or canoes, according to special agree- 
 ments. Mr. Young occupies so much land that 
 his contribution amounts to a hundred dogs per 
 annum. 
 
 The government is purely despotic, the sove- 
 reign's will being the only law, beyond which 
 every man lays one down for himself, and u>'s, 
 at his peril, whatsoever is right in his own 
 ejMfa injuring his neighbour or taking ACU- 
 geance, as opportunity or temptation may offer. 
 Thus, if a thief be detected in the act of stealing 
 anything, howew>r small for example, cutting 
 down a sugar-cant 1 the owner may kill him 
 upon the spot, and no account of his death will 
 be required. The only check upon such san- 
 guinary violence is the reaction of it ; the 
 friends of the deceased may retaliate, and de- 
 stroy the destroyer, if they please. 
 
 From the highest to the lowest the natives are 
 addicted to intoxication with ardent spirits, when 
 they can procure them from ships or of home 
 manufacture. Smoking of tobacco is a common 
 and very social practice nor have we seen it 
 indulged to excess. A company of eight or 
 ten, men, women, and children, squat on the 
 ground ; a pipe is lighted ; one takes three or 
 four puffs and passes it on ; and so from hand 
 to hand and lip to lip it goes till the last spark 
 dies out, each retaining the precious fume as 
 long as he can, and then breathing it gently 
 forth from mouth and nostrils. 
 
 Spending the evening with Governor Adams, 
 Mr. Young, and several native chiefs, we pro- 
 posed family worship, to which they courteously 
 assented. In the course of conversation after- 
 wards, they expressed a desire to have English 
 Missionaries ; saying that, since they regard 
 their country as belonging to King George 
 (this idea seems to have taken strong possession 
 of the minds of all classes of natives), any plan 
 countenanced by him, and any persons acting 
 as under him, would be well received. It was 
 proposed by one of the company to tabu our 
 Missionary companion, Mr. Ellis, and thus pre- 
 vent him from returning to the southern islands. 
 We told them that if they did so they must also 
 tabu Mr. Ellis's wife and children, from whom 
 
 he would not choose to be separated, nor they 
 like to lose him. " Oh !" said they, " we will 
 send a ship to Huahine, and fetch them hither." 
 
 April 4. Mr. Young informs us that eruptions 
 of the volcanoes occasionally take place, and 
 that earthquakes are not unfrequent during the 
 longer intervals of these. We passed a valley of 
 considerable depth, which was filled np by the 
 lava about sixteen years ago. Observing certain 
 lines like roads (one of them a mile in length) 
 descending on the slopes of the mountains, we 
 inquired for what purpose these had been formed, 
 as they were evidently not adapted for the con- 
 venience of pedestrians. We were answered, 
 that on great festivals a singular kind of amuse- 
 ment was practised here. A board is conveyed 
 to the highest part of the hill, at which the road 
 terminates. A man throws himself at full length 
 upon this, and, with daring and dexterous force, 
 propels it forward, when the board carries him, 
 with increasing velocity, straight down to the 
 foot of the descent. 
 
 April 5. We had an opportunity of seeing 
 how the natives collect salt, of which they fur- 
 nish large quantities to ships, besides what they 
 consume themselves. Small ring-fences of 
 masonry-work are formed near to the sea, 
 within which are placed rude stones, of all 
 shapes, having deep cavities, which may hold 
 from one to two or three gallons of water. 
 These being filled and evaporated from time to 
 time, the salt is deposited and ready for use 
 wi'.hout further trouble. In one of these basins 
 we 'observed about half a gallon of fine salt. 
 
 Mi. Young informs us that though idolatry 
 is abolished, yet the multitude of gods of wood 
 and st Mie, formerly worshipped, have been 
 rather hidden than extirpated, many of its in- 
 veterate ahettors still hoping for a counter-re- 
 volution in their favour ; a notion fostered by 
 the priests, vho have lost their occupation, but 
 naturally exercise their subtle influence to re- 
 cover it. Not a single image has been brought 
 to us for sale, aAid the only one that we have 
 obtained was a gift from the governor. But the 
 change of system, rom a religion of devils to no 
 religion at all, it is acknowledged, has produced 
 some beneficial effect on the morals of the 
 people. They are certainly less dishonest than 
 they were formerly, both among themselves and 
 towards strangers. \V : e have lost nothing either 
 from the ship or on slk>re. The only theft of 
 which we have heard wV one committed by a 
 man who stole a hat whem he was drunk, and 
 brought it back when he* became sober, with 
 humble and penitent confession of his fault. A 
 sailor belonging to an American vessel lying 
 here, intending to desert, lofferecl one of the 
 native pilots two dollars tt>, smuggle him on 
 shore. The Hawaiian pn \mised to do so. 
 When, however, he got the n^oney, he refused 
 to take the man on board his 'canoe, but went 
 immediately to the captain, told) him all the cir- 
 cumstance, and gave the two dt&Hars which he 
 had received to him ; apparently acting from a 
 sense of justice in rather a difficult case. The 
 traffic of prostitution carried on iby the natives 
 with foreigners, on ship-board, ;A* ^ell as on 
 
102 
 
 IRREGULARITY OF SEASONS PROVIDENTIAL DELIVERANCE. 
 
 shore, is most public and shameless here. But this 
 is a subject on which we must not, we dare not, 
 record " what we have seen and do know." The 
 utter abolition of this 'infamy in the Christian- 
 ized islands of the Southern Pacific is one of the 
 most signal triumphs of the gospel in the history 
 of human wickedness in any age or part of the 
 world. It is painful to add (as we have inti- 
 mated before), that for this very cause the gos- 
 pel and its other triumphs are evil spoken of by 
 many Christians (falsely so called) who visit 
 these seas, and are filled with rage, disappoint- 
 ment, and malice, when they find that they 
 cannot riot in licentiousness, as former voyagers 
 did, on these once polluted shores ; therefore do 
 they abhor the change, and calumniate those 
 who have been instrumental in its produc- 
 tion.* 
 
 April 6. This island has no regular dry and 
 rainy seasons, such as are usual between the 
 tropics. Planting and sowing go on as fruits 
 and harvests come in. Fresh water is very 
 scarce, there being none near the coast, so that 
 what is used must be brought from considerable 
 distances and generally from the high lands. 
 The principal mountain is seldom entirely di- 
 vested of a coronet of snow, and sometimes the 
 upper region appears altogether clothed with a 
 splendid mantle of the same. Our Tahitians, 
 whom the Missionaries could never make per- 
 fectly to understand how water could beconje 
 solid, were much delighted with the first \i w 
 of snow and ice on this elevation, and propt sed 
 climbing thither to bring away, and take J.ome 
 with them to Huahine, some of the hard 
 Whenever rain falls upon the peak it freezes ; 
 and on the slopes, whenever there is a shower, 
 calabashes are placed under the shin, ing leaves 
 of fara and other trees, to catch t)ie precious 
 moisture as it drops from the e\t .vmities. In 
 some instances we. have seen thi keels of old 
 canoes fixed in a sloping position, having the 
 hollow side uppermost, to co'.iduct the water 
 into vessels placed at the lowvt end. To-day, 
 when we called at a native v-ottage on the de- 
 clivity, an old man gave us t delicious draught 
 of water, which he had brought home in a cala- 
 \ hash, as he told us, a Ion- way. The whole of 
 this portion of the soil be ing crusted over with 
 volcanic matter, there is no possibility of digging 
 wells by such implements as the natives employ. 
 April?. We went 014 shore in a whale-boat 
 belonging to one of oijft- new friends, an Ameri- 
 can captain. Beside?; the boat-stecrer and oars- 
 men, there were \\it'i us our two personal ser- 
 vants, natives of H i lahine, whom we had engaged 
 to accompany us ovi our voyage to the Sandwich 
 and Marquesim Islands. On both sides of this 
 bay there is alway a turbulent surf, fluctuating 
 with greater ,,r JMger vehemence, alternately 
 on the north amrf O n the south shore. On the 
 latter, when- w intended to land, the surge was 
 
 It is s.it Mart )r y i,, know that the same moral im- 
 provement has .. .,. t oii ow ,.,i t | H , introduction ,,,- ,1,,, 
 
 OSpel into the 8*ldwicb Islands; while it is melancholy 
 add that the ,!,;,,;,. i, as j u some instances, brought 
 upon the Miss Iliiri ,. s illul 11;i{ i Vl . s the most shameful 
 '"'' individuals >.-arinir the name of Krilons 
 Minus. 
 
 breaking, at this time, with full fury. The 
 vessel lay about a mile from thence, and the 
 steersman of the boat directed her course right 
 thitherward, without asking any question. We 
 doubted not, therefore, that he had been previ- 
 ously on shore, and well knew what he was 
 about. But when we came upon the larger 
 swells, seaward of the breakers on the reef, 
 what was our dismay to hear the inconsiderate 
 fellow asking us where was the best place to 
 land ! as if anything could then be done in the 
 midst of peril so imminent as that into which 
 he had blindly led us, except to dart (if possi- 
 ble) over the surf, with the head of the boat 
 kept right ashore. Mr. Tyerman, who was 
 seated at the fore-end (unaware of the conse- 
 quence of swerving a hair's-breadth on either 
 hand), pointed to a spot at some distance, and 
 said, " We landed there yesterday." Mr. Ben- 
 net must supply the sequel. " The stupid 
 steersman immediately brought our long, nar- 
 row, and shallow bo^t, nearly broadside against 
 the swell, and '^- next moment it was com- 
 pletely upset, bitting at the stern, and foresee- 
 ing, as I did, this inevitable result of the sudden 
 tack, I laid fast hold with both hands of the 
 seat (or thwart, as the sailors call it), that, 
 aid not swim, being my only resource. 
 Vhough how my life was to be saved by it I did 
 not consider in the instinctive act of self-preserv- 
 ation. I felt a sharp wrench in either arm as 
 the boat turned over, and held me under it, 
 suspended by the hands, in darkness, and amidst 
 the weltering water. Here I found that I could 
 just continue to breathe, while I buoyed myself 
 up so as to keep the top of my head clo-e to 
 the inside of the boat, except when the dreadful 
 rushes of the sea broke under, and for a moment 
 tilled the hollow of the inverted vessel, some- 
 times dashing into my face, sometimes booming 
 against the back of my head. 
 
 "Once more, as on a similar or 
 vember 12, last year) in the South Paeilic, 1 
 felt perfectly assured that I was about to enter 
 into eternity, for the boat was afloat in deep 
 water, and I being completely concealed beneath 
 it, none of my companions, if they had H 
 or were even swimming about, could see where 
 I was. I also recollected that there were num- 
 berless sharks, always on the scout, in this 
 bay. I, therefore, committed myself a; 
 with resignation, to that merciful and faithful 
 Creator at whose bidding, I was fully persuaded, 
 I had come hither from England: nor did 1 
 feel any regret that I had come, becau-e 1 be- 
 lieved that I A\as in the path of duty. During 
 this brief but dreadful interval, which seemed 
 an age of suspense, something suddenly clasped 
 me round the loius ; 1 recoiled with ir. 
 sible horror, imagining, at the first touch, that 
 my body was within the jaws of a shark, whose 
 fangs 1 expected instantU to feel cutting me 
 asunder at a crash. But experiencing a softer 
 pressure, and a gvntle pulling, I carefully put 
 down one hand, and found that they were 
 human arms, not a sea-monster's ja\\ 
 enfolded me; in fact, they were the arms of 
 my faithful, pious, ;uid affectionate Talutian 
 
STERILITY OF THE LAND DEXTERITY IN SWIMMING. 
 
 103 
 
 servant Purahah. Readily then I loosened 
 my other hand, and committed myself to his 
 strength, dexterity, and courage, to bear me 
 through the breakers. He did so triumphantly, 
 and set me on land unharmed, except a little 
 nauseated with having taken in some large 
 draughts of salt water. On asking Purahah 
 how he happened to discover where I was, since 
 I must have disappeared from among my com- 
 panions, he answered, ' I looked on this side, 
 and on that side, and on every side, and when I 
 saw that you" were not anywhere about, the 
 thought grew up in my heart perhaps he is 
 under the boat; so I went and looked, and 
 found you there.' These people, as we have 
 repeatedly observed, are half amphibious, and 
 from habit can see almost as well under water 
 as out of it. I have 110 words to express my 
 gratitude to God for this new deliverance. 
 Ought not the dexterity and affectionate de- 
 votion of such a servant to be honoured ( 1 
 need not add how lively and grateful are the 
 recollections which I must entertain to the end 
 of life of the noble form and olive countenance 
 of my heroic preserver, when he stood up before 
 me after having thus accomplished my deliver- 
 ance. I had the happiness to find my friend 
 Mr. Tyerman safe on shore. He had been 
 flung out from the head of the boat, Avhere he 
 was sitting, among the breakers, but his Tahi- 
 tian servant and the seamen, having leaped out 
 before the overset, saved both themselves and 
 him, at no other inconvenience than a thorough 
 drenching of their clothes, and a temporary but 
 truly terrific alarm." 
 
 April 9. Though the climate of the Sandwich 
 Islands is fine, yet the soil, generally, is much 
 less productive than that of the Society group. 
 The volcanic devastations have rendered great 
 tracts of land utterly steril for ages to come. 
 The higher eminences are less affected by this 
 evil, consequently the largest trees and the most 
 luxuriant vegetables grow on their slopes or in 
 their sunny hollows. There, also, are found 
 the purest springs of water. We have seen few 
 insects here, except a species of ant, black and 
 very small, two or three moths, as many dragon- 
 Hies, and several kinds of common flies, resem- 
 bling those which most abound in England. 
 We heard a singing-bird among the mountains 
 the other day. To our ears, long unaccustomed 
 to such music, the notes were very sweet, 
 and carried us home with awakened affections. 
 A beautiful red paroquet, much like a bullfinch, 
 and a green bird, the size of a sparrow, are 
 frequently seen. Domestic fowls, common in 
 the southern islands, are scarce here, and very 
 inferior. The hogs and dogs, though the fa- 
 vourite animal food of the natives, are wretched 
 creatures, and at this time of drought are many 
 of thorn half famished. 
 
 Observing several small companies seated on 
 the rocks over against the harbour, and engaged 
 apparently in cheerful conversation, while others 
 were preparing different repasts for them, we 
 had the curiosity to examine the utensils, mate- 
 rials, and manner of their' cookery. In the 
 smaller cavities were reservoirs, from three to 
 
 six feet in diameter, the sides and bottoms of 
 which were lined with leaves, containing a thin 
 kind of pudding-batter, to the depth of three 
 inches, which persons were stirring about with 
 their fingers. This was composed of taro (arum 
 OOttututn), reduced by hand to the consistency 
 of pulp, after having been baked, and then 
 mixed with water. To us the taste was per- 
 fectly insipid, but, poor as such food must be, 
 the people look well. We remarked the pre- 
 paration of another dish, scarcely more savoury 
 a yellowish kind of bark, which a woman was 
 pounding to powder in a wooden trough. An 
 oven for roasting sweet potatoes next attracted 
 our notice. It was differently formed from the 
 earth-bedded ovens of Tahiti, being a hollow 
 dome-shaped pile of stones, within which the 
 fire was kindled, and kept up till the whole 
 structure was sufficiently heated. 
 
 A man was employed in making a canoe near 
 the same place. In this art these islanders ex- 
 cel. The bottom was the trunk of a tree, care- 
 fully hollowed out ; over which the sides were 
 raised of light-coloured planks, skilfully fitted 
 together, and bound with cinet. The principal 
 tool with which this simple shipwright' wrought 
 was a small adze, and it was surprising to note 
 with what precision he used it, seldom missing 
 a stroke. Canoes thus constructed look very 
 neat, being formed of different coloured woods, 
 besides being remarkably well shaped, and 
 adapted to desultory and coast-navigation. They 
 are all furnished with outriggers, which are ab- 
 solutely necessary to prevent them from upset- 
 ting, the bottoms being deeply concave, and the 
 cuds high and peaked. 
 
 The people whom we have seen were gene- 
 rally talooed, an operation performed here very 
 early in life. The goat is the favourite figure, 
 which they bear on their legs and arms ; but 
 the artists are not so expert as those of the 
 Society Islands, neither are the designs so curi- 
 ous, nor are the colours so clear and delicate, as 
 the latter employ and execute. 
 
 There arc fewer personal deformities met 
 with in this island than we have been accustom- 
 ed fo see elsewhere, with the exception of many 
 hideous ulcers, and some horrid ravages of that 
 disease which is the consequence of profligacy. 
 The women do not swaddle their new-born in- 
 fants ; several we have seen, without any cover- 
 ing, held by their mothers on their arms, across 
 a little mat. Men, women, and children, of 
 course, can all swim, and delight to refresh 
 themselves, even to weariness, if the expression 
 may be allowed, in the water. One day an old 
 woman, being on board of our vessel, while her 
 little canoe was rocking at some distance on the 
 \v;t\es, when she wished to return ashore made 
 no more ado than to leap overboard, and swim 
 to it ; but, arriving at the wrong end for enter- 
 ing without danger of capsizing, she instantly 
 dived under, re-appeared on the other side, 
 sprang into the vessel, and paddled away with 
 the agility of a young rower and the skill of an 
 old one. 
 
 April 11. The schooner, which had purled 
 from us on our voyage from Kuahine, and for 
 
104 
 
 ARRIVAL OFF OAHU AMERICAN MISSIONARIES. 
 
 which we have been waiting here, not having 
 yet arrived, Captain Kent resolved upon pro- 
 ceeding to Oahu (Woahoo), in hope of meet- 
 ing with it there. Accordingly we set sail this 
 day and proceeded up the west side of the island, 
 in 'the track !>y \\hich we had come. 
 
 April 12. Tliis evening we stood out from 
 Toeigh T.ay, which we reached yesterday, and 
 where Mr. Young resides, towards the island of 
 Maui. On this passage a whale (we could not 
 ascertain the species) of great bulk diverted us 
 with its unwieldy gambols, at a short distance 
 from the ship. Sometimes it raised its enormous 
 head and shoulders perpendicularly out of the 
 deep, then it fell backward, rolling amidst the 
 foam which it excited, and flapping its pectoral 
 fins like "sail-broad vans" above the water; 
 again it dived downward, and, re-appearing at 
 the other side, flourished its huge tail high in 
 the air ; 'spouting at intervals, and at length sail- 
 ing majestically off. At night, for the first lime 
 on this ocean, we discerned the entire constella- 
 tion of Ursa Minor ; for, though the pole-star 
 had long been within scope, the horizon was in 
 general so hazy that we had seldom been able 
 to catch more than a glimpse of it. How many 
 eyes have been fixed upon that one small point 
 in the heavens, since the first navigator, on 
 faith of ils guidance, trusted himself in a frail 
 bark beyond sight* ,pf 'land! How many eyes 
 have looked in vain for its steadfast and unset- 
 ting watch-light, when vapours, clouds, and 
 storms obscured it ! 
 
 April 13. At day-break we passed Tahurawa, 
 and, over its comparatively low shore, could 
 plainly distinguish, northward and westward, 
 the loftier forelands of Maui, Ranai, and Mo- 
 roka, while the vulcanic crest of Hawaii, a cone 
 of snow, empurpled with the morning beams, 
 rose in aerial perspective far and beautiful be- 
 hind. About the middle of the forenoon 
 Oahu hove in sight, and we were following our 
 course amidst a. gulf of islands nearly the 
 whole Sandwich group, from different ppints 
 of the horizon, rising in mountainous peaks 
 around us. 
 
 April 14. As we approached Oahu it was im- 
 posMhle not to be struck with the extraordinary 
 contour of the coast. From the western ex- 
 tremity the land slopes gradually upward to the 
 east, where it culminates in irregular jagged 
 peaks, and breaks off in stupendous precipices. 
 At this end, about half a mile from the shore, 
 a shapely conical rock tapers to a considerable 
 height out of the deep water; and further along 
 another insulated mass of naked crags, and 
 ruder form, bears the brunt of the everlasting 
 surges breaking round its base. We made for 
 the southern side, where two bold eminences, 
 " horns of land,*' project towards the sea, and 
 give a singular aspect of defence and defiance to 
 the shore. The flanks of both are deeply in- 
 dented with water-courses ; or, more probably 
 river by volcanic earthquakes, for we rcmarkei 
 that the trenches were partly oblique some o 
 them almost zig-zag and partly vertical, as i 
 a ploughshare had forced a furrow, at one stroke 
 from top to bottom of the declivity. Unable to 
 
 double the point towards which we had been 
 leering, we were compelled to tack and stand 
 iff from the land till to-morrow. In the night 
 >ur ship was becalmed, and all the following day 
 the Sabbath) we still remained at sea. 
 
 April 16. This morning, the wind being too 
 veak to carry us through, we were towed into 
 larbour, under the guidance of a native pilot. 
 Twenty-four ships were lying in the port and 
 the offings, principally American whalers. Soon 
 after landing we were introduced to the king, 
 who is resident there. We found the king ( Ri- 
 loriho) in company of his five wives and a 
 number of chiefs, with a large train of other 
 attendants. He was seated in the midst, upon 
 a mat, on the floor of an extensive native house. 
 He appears to be a young man of courteous 
 manners, about the middle size (inferior in that 
 respect to the Tahitian princes) and of a light 
 complexion. He vvas dnxed in European 
 style, having on a shirt, jacket, waistcoat, and 
 pantaloons. Captain Kent told the king his 
 errand, and produced his credentials from Port 
 Jackson. His majesty appeared exceedingly 
 gratified by the present of the schoon 
 pledge of good-will, on the part of the British 
 Government, with which he wishes to secure 
 and perpetuate an alliance, even as a vassal of 
 King George, so that he may but rely on his 
 paternal protection. Kihoriho, at this audience, 
 w.is attended by an officer, sitting behind him, 
 with a fan of long white feathers, which he 
 \\aM il continually in the air, over his head. 
 Ueside this person sat one of the queens, hold- 
 ing in her hands a wooden dish, covered with a 
 handkerchief, which she occasionally presented 
 to the royal lips, to spit into it. The tobacco- 
 pipe, also, was occasionally introduced, when 
 the king, having amused himself with a whiff or 
 two, handed it to his favourite queen, and she 
 to another ; in which manner it travelled round 
 the circle of grandees as long as the fumigation 
 could be kept up. Wine was brought to us in 
 which we pledged his majesty's health. His 
 five queens are women of no ordinary magni- 
 tude ; two of them must be, at least, s 
 high each, and of a comely bulk in proportion. 
 Their dresses were silken girdles, of divers 
 colours, thrown round the body, with necklaces 
 of flowers, and wreathes of fern-leaves on their 
 heads. Each of these great ladies was disfi- 
 gured by the voluntary loss of two or three 
 front teeth, in memory of the death of the late 
 king. We have hardly seen a mouth since we 
 landed in Hawaii which has not been thus bar- 
 barously dismantled of some part of its most 
 useful as well as most ornamental furniture. 
 
 On returning from this audience we dined 
 at the house of the American Missionaries, who 
 indeed received us as brethren as soon as they 
 were apprized of our arrival. We learn tha 
 from two to three hundred natives usually attem 
 their public sen-ices ; but as yet there is smal 
 appearance of the gospel having taken root evei 
 in a few hearts. These faithful messengers o 
 it have hitherto laboured, but not fainted, under 
 many disadvantages. A little boy, who had 
 been accustomed to wait on the .Missionaries 
 
REPORT OF THE DEPUTATION FROM THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 105 
 
 carried home to his father, who was blind, in- 
 telligence of what he had seen or heard, from 
 time to time, in their company. The old man 
 was deeply touched by these communications, 
 and soon began to inquire for himself " if these 
 things were so ;" and manifested, meanwhile, 
 a corresponding concern for his soul's salvation. 
 He professes a full reliance on the atonement 
 of the Lord Jesus Christ, and prays daily, and 
 often in the day. Nor does he stop here, but 
 he has begun to speak to his countrymen, re- 
 proving sin, and recommending the righteous- 
 ness which is of faith. Wherefore some say, 
 " He is a good man ;" others say, " Nay, but 
 he deceiveth the people." John vii. 12. We 
 trust that he is a true convert, who deems it 
 enough, in taking up the cross, that the " dis- 
 ciple should be as his Master, and the servant as 
 his Lord." Matt. x. 25. A few days ago the 
 king sent for him, and questioned him eoncern- 
 ing his new religion, when the poor man is said 
 to have witnessed so good a confession that lie 
 was sent away from the royal presence Avith 
 liberal appro val. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Extracts from an Official Letter of Messrs. Tycrman and 
 Hcnnrt, ailchrs-cil to the Directors ot the London Mis- 
 sionary Society, from the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 [It will be expedient, in this place, to introduce 
 some extractsjfrom a letter, written by Messrs. 
 Tyerman and*Bennet, during their residence at 
 the Sandwich Islands, ;is these will, in a few 
 pages, give the reader a comprehensive view of 
 the important changes which took place while 
 they were providentially detained there.] 
 
 Oahu, May 8, 1822. 
 
 *** 
 
 ON landing we were most kindly welcomed by 
 theMissionaries, who immediately introduced us 
 to the king, by whom we were well received. 
 He was a young man, and was dressed in the 
 European costume. He was highly delighted 
 with the present of the schooner, sent him by 
 the king of England, though not for its value 
 he possesses ten ships of his own, and consi- 
 derable property in dollars and goods of various 
 kinds but as an expression of the friendship of 
 the English, to whom he is strongly attached, 
 and under whose protection he considers him- 
 self as holding these islands. He immediately 
 engaged to supply the crew of the cutter with 
 provisions so long as she may remain here, and 
 invited Captain Kent to take up his abode in 
 his house during the same time. Here is a good 
 harbour, which is also a place of great resort to 
 American whalers for refreshment. On enter-' 
 ing the port, which is divided into an outer and 
 an inner basin, we counted twenty-three ships 
 and vessels of different descriptions. For com- 
 ing to an anchor in the outer harbour ships pay 
 forty dollars ; in the inner, eighty dollars be- 
 sides pilotage. This harbour is protected by a 
 battery, built at the head of it, which mounts 
 fifty guns, of large calibre, and another bat- 
 tery at the summit of a neighbouring hill, 
 where there are ten cannons. On landing we 
 
 found ourselves in a village called Honoruru, 
 containing between 2000 and 3000 inhabitants, 
 living in grass houses, resembling hay-ricks of 
 different sizes, with but one small opening as 
 the door-way, scattered over an extensive plain, 
 which lies between the sea and the foot of the 
 mountains. The taro-plantations, Avhich are 
 seen near the village, afford striking proofs of 
 great industry on the part of the people, and no 
 small ingenuity in so directing the water, which 
 runs doAvn the adjacent valleys, as to convey it 
 from one bed of taro to another, for three or 
 four miles in extent. Here are resident an 
 American Consul, and several persons from that 
 country, with a view to mercantile employment ; 
 their specific object is sandal-wood, which 
 grows in these islands, and finds an advantage- 
 ous market in China. Goods of various kinds 
 are imported here, and almost everything may 
 be obtained. Dollars constitute the circulating 
 medium of these islands. 
 
 After our interview witli the king, the Mis- 
 sionaries most affectionately invited us all to 
 take up our abode with them at their house 
 during our stay, to which we gratefully con- 
 sented. Their house is at a short distance from 
 the village. Here are two Missionaries, Messrs. 
 Bingham and Thurston, with their wives ; the 
 former, with Mrs. Bingham, was at the island of 
 Tauai Avhen AVC arrived, but has since returned. 
 Besides these pious and excellent men, there are 
 four others, and their Avives; Mr. Chamberlain, 
 who is acquainted Avith agriculture; Mr. 
 Loomis, a printer ; Mr. Ruggles, who is en- 
 gaged in superintending a school ; and Mr. 
 Whitney ; the two latter are stationed at the 
 island of Tauai, Avhich is about seventy miles 
 from hence, and where a school of about thirty 
 children has been raised. There is also a school 
 here, containing the same number of children. 
 All the children in both schools are clothed and 
 boarded at the houses of the Missionaries, at 
 the Society's expense. 
 
 This day three years ago the old king died, in 
 full and firm attachment to his idols. Soon after 
 this his son and successor held a public feast 
 to commemorate this event. At this feast he 
 publicly set at defiance the tabu, or idolatrous 
 system, by sitting doAvn and eating- Avith his 
 Avives, and the wives of many other chiefs. This 
 took place when the American Missionaries 
 were on their voyage to these islands, where 
 they arrived on the 31st of March, 1820, and 
 were allowed by the king' and his people to 
 settle among them. HoAvever, it does not ap- 
 pear that the king demolished idolatry from any 
 preference to Christianity, or any other religion. 
 His father charged him, immediately before his 
 death, to support the idolatrous system, and to 
 abstain from drinking spirituous liquors, both of 
 Avhich lie has equally disregarded. 
 
 The prospects of the Missionaries are very 
 promising. These islands are populous, and 
 seem to be waiting for the Saviour's law. This 
 small island contains not feAver than 20,000 
 souls ; and the other islands of this group are 
 populous in proportion. 
 
 A place of worship has been erected near the 
 
108 
 
 THE FIVE QUEENS A SORCERER. 
 
 some persons gathering the slender greeu sea- 
 weed from the rocks for food. In one of the 
 houses which we entered, a man was eating 
 small crabs alive. In another place they had 
 just killed a dog, and were dressing the carcase 
 for the oven by singeing and scraping off the 
 hair. These people in general are very gross 
 feeders. When a hog which the king had sent 
 on board was slaughtered, on the entrails being 
 thrown into the sea, some natives from the 
 shore instantly plunged into the water, swam to 
 the ship's side, and had a stiff struggle in the 
 water for the prize. 
 
 In the house of one of the queens where our 
 Tahitian friends are accommodated, we found 
 three women and a man playing at cards (whist) 
 for money, with all the cool, keen interest, and 
 stem self-possession of inveterate gamblers. 
 One of the persons sitting by said that these 
 games often ended in quarrels, when not hands 
 only but clubs were furiously employed. He 
 confessed that it was a bad custom, but that 
 they knew no better, not having received " the 
 I good word " as the Tahitians had. One of the 
 queens coming in threw herself upon the floor, 
 yet with an air of no unconscious superiority, 
 and professed a desire to learn the things which 
 hud been taught to the South Sea Islanders, 
 observing, that if the king would give his con- 
 sent they should all be willing to be taught. 
 Two of these illustrious females were seen the 
 other day riding in one large wheel-barrow. 
 After being pushed along by main force for a 
 few puces at a time by two stout men, the latter 
 were repeatedly obliged to rest and take breath, 
 at which nobody would wonder who knew what 
 a weight of royalty they hud in charge. Their 
 majesties vastly enjoyed the novelty, if not the 
 pleasantness of the motion ; this being probably 
 the only kind of carriage in which they had 
 ever taken the air. Soon afterwards the same 
 ladies were strenuously exercising themselves 
 in fetching bundles of rushes upon their naked 
 backs from the swamps, to strew the floors of 
 their habitations, and felt themselves as un- 
 ashamed of their honest labour in this instance 
 as of degrading amusement in the other. This 
 example of feminine industry was the more re- 
 markable, because the chiefs here affect to be 
 above all kinds of drudgery, and never suffer 
 their children to do anything like work. 
 
 In the afternoon we visited M. Manine, a 
 Spaniard, who has resided here thirty years. 
 This person occupies three acres of ground, 
 which he has with groat taste laid out as a gar- 
 den, vineyard, and orchard ; and in which trees, 
 plants, and fruit of European growth have been 
 very successfully cultivated. The vines in par- 
 ticular, trained after the Spanish fashion in 
 bushes, nourish luxuriantly. The proprietor 
 tells us that they would bear three crops in the 
 year, though he prudently prevents the third, 
 lest it should too much exhaust the stocks. 
 Figs and roses, neither of which we had seen 
 in the Society Islands, have been also intro- 
 duced by him, and promise well. In the vil- 
 lage, observing several houses over which small 
 flags raised on poles were flying, it was natural 
 
 to suppose that these buildings were tabued for 
 some sacred purpose. On inquiry, however, 
 it turned out that they were dram-shops, where 
 spirits distilled from the tii-root were sold to 
 sailors. It was not however denied that na- 
 tives as well as foreigners might be accommo- 
 dated with the luxury of this slow poison, if 
 they could afford to pay the price of self-de- 
 struction by such means ; and unhappily, among 
 the highest class there are not a few who sacri- 
 fice health and life itself to an infatuated j 
 for strong drink. 
 
 April 18. A system of sorcery similar to that 
 which formerly existed in the Society Islands 
 yet prevails here, though virtually abolished 
 with the idolatry on which it was engrafted. 
 The adepts in this black art pfetended to have 
 power to pray their victims to death ; and it is 
 probable that many a one may have died from 
 fear of such an apprehended death. Some time 
 ago one of these impostors entered the house 
 of Mr. Young in Hawaii, with an eye to pil- 
 lage. Being surprised by the owner in the fact, 
 he endeavoured to escape through the window, 
 which proving too small, he was caught in it as 
 in a trap, and received upon the spot the chas- 
 tisement which he had taken such unlucky 
 pains to deserve, t'nder the infliction of a se- 
 vere cudgelling, he suddenly fell down and 
 affected to be dead. The neighbours who had 
 collected round the house were shocked and 
 terrified at the audacity of Mr. Young, in dar- 
 ing to lay violent hands upon so dangerous an 
 opponent as the conjuror, and expected that 
 some dreadful judgment would fall upon him 
 for the deed. Mr. Young himself, howe\ 
 no such fear, knowing better with what a sub- 
 tle knave he had to deal than his countrymi n 
 did. Instead, therefore, of leaving him for 
 dead, he quickly revived him by a few more 
 well-directed strokes of the stick, on the unex- 
 pected application of which, the rogue jumped 
 up and ran off, but not without threatening to 
 pray his castigator to death. Accordingly he 
 retired among the mountains, erected a 
 to his familiar demon, and commenced his in- 
 cantations. The natives day after day looked 
 for the sudden destruction of Mr. Young, but 
 in the mean time the sorcerer himself came to 
 a miserable end. It was then currently be- 
 lieved that Mr. Young had prayed him to death 
 by his skill in the counter-art, which is pro- 
 fessed here as well as in Tahiti. This -rave him 
 great influence and authority over an ignorant 
 and superstitious people, who have such terror 
 of these magic imprecations, that in various 
 instances, where captains of ships have been 
 plundered of valuable property by ^sitors from 
 the shore, they ha\o threatened to pray the 
 thieves to death in case the same was not im- 
 mediately brought back; and the menace has 
 generally been sufficient to save them from the 
 alternative of trusting to the efficacy of their 
 prayen. 
 
 The most precious commodity for commerce 
 produced in these islands is sandal-wood (san- 
 tahon aUni/n ), which grows on the highe-t 
 mountains. The king monopoli/.es the property 
 
REPORT OF THE DEPUTATION FROM THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 107 
 
 what he had previously told us, and we desired 
 their sentiments freely ; which, after exchanging 
 a few words with Mr. Ellis, they gave. Our 
 Missionary friends unanimously declared their 
 opinion that the thing was from God ; that at 
 present there appeared a decisive indication 
 that Mr. Ellis and the Tahitiaus should enter 
 this Missionary field ; and that, if after due de- 
 liberation, inquiry, and prayer, it should conti- 
 nue to appear so, they should rejoice to receive 
 them as brethren. 
 
 They had no doubt but Mr. Ellis's expe- 
 rience in Missionary labours among a people in 
 many respects similar, and his acquaintance 
 with the language, would prove a great blessing 
 to all parties. This unanimous opinion of our 
 friends, and Mr. Ellis's willingness to remove, 
 notwithstanding his great usefulness at Hua- 
 hine, have left no choice. The path appears 
 quite plain ; and we may add, the king Riho- 
 riho,- and his favourite queen also, desire Mr. 
 Ellis to come. 
 
 It is now two months since Mr. Ellis con- 
 sented to settle here in aid of the Mission at 
 this place, though of course at the expense and 
 under the auspices of our Society. Since this 
 determination, a very close attention has been 
 paid to the language of Hawaii ; and lie now 
 preaches in it with ease and fluency, two or 
 three times a-week, to attentive and increasing 
 congregations. 
 
 Mi-. Kills ha< composed four hymns in the 
 Hawaiian (or Owhyheean) language, which are 
 sung in the chapel. You will hardly be able 
 to conceive the delight AVC had in hearing 1 these 
 people for the first time uniting to sing th" 
 praises of Jehovah in their own tongue! A 
 scene of great usefulness appears to be opening 
 here. One, indeed, of greater interest and im- 
 portance than that which is presented by the 
 Sandwich Islands could scarcely be found. A 
 group of twelve or thirteen fine fertile islands, 
 in one of the most delightful climates perhaps 
 anywhere to be met with, rising rapidly into 
 consequence, as places at which vessels may re- 
 fresh in passing from the western side of the 
 new world to tin eastern parts of the old world, 
 and affording ports for repairs and refreshments 
 to great numbers of Pacific Ocean whalers, 
 having also a population of above 200,000 inha- 
 bitants, must have great importance as a Mis- 
 I sionary field. We made a tour round the 
 greater part of this beautiful island, accompa- 
 nied by our Missionary friend Mr. Bingham, 
 and a messenger from the king, and were e\er\ - 
 where received with the greatest kindess both 
 by chiefs and people. While we deeply mourned 
 over the deplorable state of ignorance, vice, and 
 wretchedness in which we found the people of 
 all ranks, we could not but rejoice at the readi- 
 ness wo everywhere found to listen L> the 
 gospel, which was addressed to various assem- 
 blies sometimes within a house, sometimes 
 under a tree, or in the shade of a rock. We 
 did not find any native who had the least no- 
 tion who it was that made the sea, the sky, or 
 'ves ; l,ut, they all paid if was mtttktfi 
 (good) to learn these things, and to worship 
 
 Jehovah ; and that as soon as the king told 
 them to do so, they w r ould all come to learn. 
 At one place ( Uarua) we were kindly received 
 and hospitably entertained by an intelligent 
 chief, who was one of the principal priests of 
 the abolished system. He made many inquiries 
 about the nature of this new religion, and pro- 
 posed some difficulties for solution. Among 
 other questions he asked whether Jehovah could 
 understand if they prayed to him in Hawaiian, 
 or whether they must all learn English "? When 
 he had received answers which appeared to 
 satisfy him, he said it was maikai (good), and 
 he was ready to receive instruction and to wor- 
 ship Jehovah as soon as Rihoriho (the king) 
 should order it. All seems to hang on the 
 word of the king! The government of these 
 islands is an absolute monarchy; there is no 
 law but the king's will. The king (Rihoriho) 
 says to the Missionaries and to us, that by and 
 by he will tell his people that they must all 
 learn the good word, and worship Jehovah ; but 
 that the Missionaries must teach him first, and 
 themselves get well acquainted with Hawaiian. 
 But alasl the king is slow to learn. Neverthe- 
 less these difficulties and all others, we trust, 
 will be overruled, and in due time removed, 
 that the glorious gospel may have free course 
 to promote the happiness of man and the glory 
 of God ! Two weeks ago the names of twelve 
 persons were given in, who appear to be sin- 
 cerely attached to the word ; so that ere long 
 we hope the administration of Christian bap- 
 tism to the natives will commence by the Mis- 
 sionaries. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Food of tin- natives of the Sandwich Islands-Card party 
 
 The (he Queens M. Maaine'a gardens Dram-wops 
 
 A sorcerer Sandal-wood Caiidle-imt strings Cou- 
 
 of Anna and his wilt; with the natives of 
 Oahu Taumarii, kinjjof Tauai Town ot Ilonoruru 
 Murderous practices of the shark-worshippers Yellow 
 fever Cannibalism A rich Neyro resident Excur- 
 sions among the mountains Method of carrying bur- 
 thensVolcanic crater Distillery Traditions - Ani- 
 mals. 
 
 APRIL 17. We waited upon the king, and 
 found him surrounded by his usual attendants, 
 loitering and looking about with vacant eyes, or 
 humming a low, dull, monotonous air, without 
 melody, as though they knew not what to do 
 with themselves. Two of his queens were 
 rather more amusingly employed. Each had 
 made a small pipe of the tii-leaf (draccena ter- 
 iiihtdUfi) rolled up ; holding up this in the hol- 
 low between her hands globularly clasped, the 
 lady blew into the little instrument, which, as 
 she opened and closed her fingers upon it, pro- 
 duced a few squeaking notes like those of a 
 child's trumpet. With such music, ho\\e\er, 
 the royal dames appeared surprisingly delighted. 
 The king expressed his gratitude for the pic- 
 sent of the schooner, by giving our two captains 
 quarters in his own residence while on .shore 
 here, and engaging to furnish both ships'' com- 
 panies with provisions during their stay in the 
 harbour. 
 
 Walking along the beach to-day, we observed 
 
108 
 
 THE FIVE QUEENS A SORCERER. 
 
 some persons gathering the slender green sea- 
 weed from the rocks for food. In one of the 
 houses which we entered, a man was eating 
 small crabs alive. In another place they had 
 just killed a dog, and were dressing the carcase 
 for the oven by singeing and scraping oft' the 
 hair. These people in general are very gross 
 feeders. When a hog which the king had sent 
 on board was slaughtered, on the entrails being 
 thrown into the sea, some natives from the 
 shore instantly plunged into the water, swam to 
 the ship's side, and had a stiff struggle in the 
 water for the prize. 
 
 In the house of one of the queens where our 
 Tahitian friends are accommodated, we found 
 three women and a man playing at cards (whist) 
 for money, with all the cool, keen interest, and 
 stern self-possession of inveterate gamblers. 
 One of the persons sitting by said that these 
 games often ended in quarrels, when not hands 
 only but clubs were furiously employed. He 
 confessed that it was a bad custom, but that 
 they knew no better, not having received " the 
 good word" as the Tahitians had. One of the 
 queens coming in threw herself upon the floor, 
 yet with an air of no unconscious superiority, 
 and professed a desire to learn the things which 
 had been taught to the South Sea Islanders, 
 observing, that if the king would give his con- 
 sent they should all be willing to be taught. 
 Two of these illustrious females were seen the 
 other day riding in one large wheel-barrow. 
 After being pushed along by main force for a 
 few paces at a time by two stout men, the latter 
 were repeatedly obliged to rest and take breath, 
 at which nobody would wonder who knew what 
 a weight of royalty they had in charge. Their 
 majesties vastly enjoyed the novelty, if not the 
 pleasantness of the motion ; this being probably 
 the only kind of carriage in which they had 
 ever taken the air. Soon afterward* the same 
 ladies were strenuously exercising themselves 
 in fetching bundles of rushes upon their naked 
 backs from the swamps, to strew the floors of 
 their habitations, and felt themselves as un- 
 ashamed of their honest labour in this instance 
 as of degrading amusement in the other. This 
 example of feminine industry was the more re- 
 markable, because the chiefs here affect to be 
 above all kinds of drudgery, and never suffer 
 their children to do anything like work. 
 
 In the afternoon we visited M. Maninu, a 
 Spaniard, who has resided here thirty \cars. 
 This person, occupies three acres of ground, 
 which he has with trveat taste laid out as a gar- 
 den, vineyard, and orchard ; and in which trees, 
 plants, and fruit of European growth have beeu 
 very successfully cultivated. The vines in par- 
 ticular, trained, after the Spanish fashion in 
 bushes, flourish luxuriantly. The propi'ietor 
 tells us that they would bear three crops in the 
 
 Jear, though he prudently prevents the third, 
 i st it should too much exhaust the stocks. 
 Figs and roses, neither of which we had seen 
 in the Society Islands, have been also intro- 
 duced by him, and promise well. In the vil- 
 lage, observing several houses over which small 
 flags raised on poles were flying, it was natural 
 
 to suppose that these buildings were tabued for 
 some sacred purpose. On inquiry, however, 
 it turned out that they were dram-shops, where 
 spirits distilled from the tii-root were sold to 
 sailors. It was not however denied that na- 
 tives as well as foreigners might be accommo- 
 dated with the luxury of this slow poison, if 
 they could afford to pay the price of self-de- 
 struction by such means ; and unhappily, among 
 the highest class there are not a few who sacri- 
 fice health and life itself to an infatuated passion 
 for strong drink. 
 
 April 18. A system of sorcery similar to that 
 which formerly existed in the Society Islands 
 yet prevails here, though virtually abolished 
 with the idolatry on which it was engrafted. 
 The adepts in this black art pfetended to have 
 power to pray their victims to death ; and it is 
 probable that many a one may have died from 
 fear of such an apprehended death. Some time 
 ago one of these impostors entered the house 
 of Mr. Young in Hawaii, with an eye to pil- 
 lage. Being surprised by the owner in the fact, 
 he endeavoured to escape through the window, 
 which proving too small, he was caught in it as 
 in a trap, and received upon the spot the chas- 
 tisement which he had taken such unlucky 
 pains to deserve. Under the infliction of a se- 
 vere cudgelling, he suddenly fell down and 
 affected to be dead. The neighbours who had 
 collected round the house were shocked and 
 territied at the audacity of Mr. Young, in dar- 
 ing to lay violent hands upon so dangerous an 
 opponent as the conjuror, and expected that 
 some dreadful judgment would fall upon him 
 for the deed. Mr. Young himself, however, felt 
 no such fear, knowing better with what a sub- 
 tle knave he had to deal than his countr\m< 11 
 did. Instead, therefore, of leaving him for 
 dead, he quickly revived him by a few more 
 well-directed strokes of the stick, on the uncx- 
 pected application of which, the rou'ue jumped 
 up and ran off, but not without threatening to 
 pray his castigator to death. Accordingly he 
 retired among the mountains, erected a marae 
 to his familiar demon, and commenced his in- 
 cantations. The natives day after day looked 
 for the sudden destruction of Mr. Young, but 
 in the mean time the sorcerer himself came to 
 a miserable end. It was then currently be- 
 lieved that Mr. Young had prayed him to death 
 by his skill in the counter-art, which is pro- 
 fessed here as well as in Tahiti. This gave him 
 great influence and authority over an ignorant 
 and superstitious people, who have such terror 
 of these magic imprecations, that in various 
 instances, where captains of ships have been 
 plundered of valuable property by \isitors from 
 the shore, they have threatened to pray the 
 thieves to death in case the same was not im- 
 mediately brought back; and the menace has 
 generally been sufficient to save them from the 
 alternative of trusting to the efficacy of their 
 
 The most precious commodity for commerce 
 produced in these islands is sandal-wood (san- 
 tnltim album), which grows on the hiirluM 
 mountains. The king monopolizes the proju. 1 1\ 
 
CANDLE-NUT STRINGS FIRST SERMON PREACHED IN OAHU. 
 
 109 
 
 of these trees, and requires his subjects, at their 
 own cost and toil, to cut and bring down the 
 supplies as they are wanted to the coast. Lat- 
 terly he has permitted some of his more fa- 
 voured chiefs to share with him in this traffic. 
 The wood, which is used by the Chinese for its 
 agreeable fragrance in the manufacture of fans and 
 other toys, as well as burnt by them for incense 
 before their household and other deities, is ex- 
 ported to Canton and the islands of the Eastern 
 Archipelago, in vessels belonging to the king 
 himself, or in foreign bottoms. On one occa- 
 sion we saw nearly two thousand persons, laden 
 with fagots of sandal-wood, coming down from 
 the mountains to deposit their burthens in the 
 royal storehouses, and then depart to their 
 homes, wearied with their unpaid labours, yet 
 unmurmuring at their bondage. In fact, the 
 condition of the common people is that of 
 slavrs ; they hold nothing which may not be 
 taken from them by the strong hand of arbitrary 
 power, whether exercised by the sovereign or a 
 petty chief. 
 
 Near the shore, where the bulk of the popu- 
 lation reside, on the level ground, are many 
 fish-ponds belonging to the chiefs. These are 
 as carefully preserved for the use of their own- 
 ers as though they were guarded by game-laws. 
 The fish are taken by means of a deleterious 
 composition, made from a native shrub and 
 moulded into little balls, which, being thrown 
 into the water are eagerly devoured, and have 
 such an intoxicating effect upon the fishes that 
 they come up to the surface, where they float 
 powerless, and are easily collected by the hand. 
 There are many wild cattle in the sequestered 
 valleys and on the hills on these islands. We 
 have seen a large herd of cows belonging to the 
 king, which thrive well upon the abundant 
 pasturage. Some horses, asses, and sheep are 
 also kept, but in no great numbers, nor are they 
 as \ ( t turned to any particular account. 
 
 In the cottages we often observe long strings 
 of candle-nuts (aleuritcs triloba) suspended 
 from the rafters. The kernels of these, being 
 cut into the form of convex lenses about three- 
 fourths of an inch in diameter and a third of an 
 inch thick, are stuck one over another like 
 beads, upon a fibre of cocoa-nut leaf a foot 
 long ; and, containing a considerable proportion 
 of inflammable oil, they give sufficient light for 
 ordinary purposes, the flame communicating 
 downward till the last piece is consumed. 
 Sometimes five or six such strings, two yards in 
 length, are wrapped together in a leaf of banana 
 and carried before the king as flambeaux when 
 he travels by night. 
 
 This evening Mr. Ellis preached to our Ta- 
 hitian friends in the chapel of the American 
 Missionaries. The king, three of his queens, 
 and most of the native grandees were present, 
 besides a great number of people who not only 
 filled the place but crowded round the doors 
 and windows to see and hear what they could. 
 The scene was strange to us, and might have 
 seemed ludicrous, but for the affecting thought 
 that this was an heathen audience to whom an 
 unknown God was about to be declared. Paul's 
 
 audience on Mars Hill no doubt presented a 
 very different aspect to the eye, but whether 
 the intellectual Athenians, whose " city was 
 wholly given up to idolatry," or these untaught 
 natives of the North Pacific, who had volun- 
 tarily cast away " their gods, which were yet 
 no gods," appeared more pitiable objects in the 
 sight of Him who " seeth not as man seeth, for 
 man looketh on the outward appearance, but 
 the Lord looketh on the heart," we presume 
 not to judge. Rihoriho sat upon a chair in the 
 middle of the chapel; the queens reclined on 
 the floor at his feet ; and each of these mem- 
 bers of the royal family had servants in atten- 
 dance with fly-flaps and fans of peacock's 
 feathers, to cool their faces and drive away the 
 troublesome insects. The king seemed greatly 
 surprised at the singing of our Tahitian friends ; 
 the sweetness, compass, and variety of their 
 notes being new and almost marvellous to ears 
 like his, accustomed only to the wretched music, 
 vocal and instrumental, of his country, which is 
 probably as little worthy of the name as any 
 artificial combination of dead or living sounds un- 
 der heaven. To the sermon also he listened with 
 apparently pleased attention ; once or twice he 
 smiled, and it was evident that he understood 
 (from the similarity of dialects) the greater part 
 of what was said. In the course of the service 
 several of the chiefs, wearied or caring nothing 
 about the matter, flung themselves upon their 
 backs on the floor, lolling or dozing with utter 
 indifference. At the close the king stood up, 
 wheeled round, and swinging his stick about 
 with an air of barbarian dignity, marched out, 
 followed by all his train. The general congre- 
 gation then broke up and departed peaceably. 
 
 Nothing more attracts the attention, and at 
 the same time awakens the minds, of all ranks 
 of people here, than the appearance, dress, and 
 conversation of our Tahitian friends ; for all 
 can perceive that, while the latter are of a kin- 
 dred race with themselves, they are far superior 
 in manners and intelligence. When they are 
 told, therefore, that the gospel, " the good 
 word," has made the difference, they feel a 
 reverence for it, and express a desire to be in- 
 structed in it which might otherwise not have 
 been so early or powerfully excited in the minds 
 of indolent and untractable heathens. Auna 
 and his wife are guests of Kaahumanu, one of 
 the late king's wives, now queen of Taui, and 
 next to Rihoriho in authority. Calling upon 
 her one day, we found this lady and her native 
 attendants lying on mats upon the floor, and 
 letting time fly over their heads as it might ; 
 she indeed was unwell, which might excuse her 
 supineness. On the other hand our female 
 Tahitians were sitting up, and diligently em- 
 ployed in shaping and sewing a gown for their 
 generous hostess. Her majesty is rich in what 
 here is considered valuable furniture, such as 
 mats, fly-flaps, fans, and other articles of con- 
 venience or finery. Her house consists of one 
 large undivided room, in which, at considerable 
 distances, are placed three beds* Kaahumanu's 
 was a low platform, eight feet square, and con- 
 sisted of between twenty and thirty beautiful 
 
110 
 
 TAUMUARII, KING OF TAUAITOWN OF HONORURU. 
 
 I mats, of the finest texture, laid one upon ano- 
 ther with a single pillow, and over the whole'a 
 hlack velvet coverlid. There were neither blan- 
 kets nor sheets, it being the practice to use no 
 other bed-clothes than those which they wear 
 when awake. Here, as formerly in the Society 
 Islands, there are no particular times for sleep- 
 ing or eating ; each individual indulging in the 
 refreshment of food or of rest as he feels dis- 
 posed. We seldom enter a house in which we 
 do not find some of the family asleep ; and we 
 are told that during the night some are gene- 
 rally up, and about their business or their 
 amusement. 
 
 April 20. We have been much pleased to 
 meet with Taumuarii, lately king of Tauai. 
 He speaks English tolerably well, and has been 
 a steady friend to the American Missionaries 
 since their arrival at Oahu. In his former state, 
 having been threatened with invasion of his 
 little island-kingdom by Rihoriho, he did not 
 choose to hazard the consequences of unequal 
 war against so formidable a neighbour, and 
 prudently consented to hold his government as 
 a fief under the latter. Rihoriho, pleased with 
 so easy a conquest, permitted him to remain in 
 peace for some time, and whenever he received 
 presents from his vassal sent back others as 
 valuable, or more so, in return. Meanwhile, 
 one of the widows of the late king Tameha- 
 meha, having set her affections on Taumuarii, 
 with that frankness which such a personage 
 might exercise towards an inferior, sent him 
 word that it was her royal will and pleasure for 
 him to come over to Oahu and marry her. He 
 In -hated at first, but in the sequel surrendered 
 himself at discretion, and, if not a king, became 
 a queen's husband. Soon after the marriage 
 the royal pair passed over to Tauai, hoping to 
 reign in undUtuilu <1 possession of that quiet 
 spot. Rihoriho, however, one night, when he 
 was abroad upon the water and in a state of in- 
 toxication, suddenly ordered his attendants to 
 vow him to Tauai. Having little provision on 
 board, the weather being precarious, and the 
 distance considerable, the boat's crew demurred, 
 and ventured to remonstrate with their master; 
 but winds and waves are not more deaf to 
 reason, or impatient of contradiction, than a 
 drunken man, especially if that man be what 
 every sot thinks himself a king. He stormed 
 and foamed, and insisted on obedience to his 
 commands, threatening, if they continued re- 
 fractory, to tkrow himself into the sea and swim 
 to the island alone. Finding him utterly un- 
 manageable, his people submitted, and, by dint 
 of excessive labour and at no small hazard of 
 their lives, made the desired port, where he was 
 received by the inhabitants with all the servile, 
 homage due to a despotic sovereign. Affecting* 
 the utmost friendliness towards Taumuarii anoF 
 his dowager queen-consort, he remained with 
 them several days, when a large vessel of his 
 own arrived at Tauai from hence to fetch him 
 away. On board of this he persuaded his vassal 
 to accompany him, when, instantly giving 
 orders to wei^h anchor, the king brought him 
 to Oahu, where he has been detained ever since, 
 
 not indeed as a state prisoner, Jjut under a spell 
 of authority which makes him feel that it would 
 be at his peril were he to attempt to return 
 home. However, he and his wife live here in 
 great plenty and comfort, surrounded by nume- 
 rous dependents, and displaying as much of 
 barbarous pomp as the king himself. 
 
 Rihoriho has no fixed residence, but moves 
 about from place to place, and island to island, 
 as humour prompts. This, however, is his 
 favourite sojourn, and well deserves to be so, 
 for it is the most magnificent in external fea- 
 ture, and the most exuberant in natural pro- 
 duce, of all the Sandwich group. The principal 
 town is Honoruru, which contains five or six 
 hundred houses, partly extending in a long line 
 upon the beach, and the remainder scattered 
 over the broad plain between the mountains 
 and the sea. This plain is a coral rock, covered 
 with a thin stratum of soil, which bears grasses 
 of different kinds, and wears the appearance of 
 a beautiful flat meadow. What is remarkable, 
 good fresh water is obtained from wells sunk 
 eight or ten feet through the coral reef. There 
 are only two mansions, each two stories high, 
 in the English style, in this town, and a third 
 of Spanish fashion, with a store-room below, 
 and a range of chambers on the upper floor, to 
 which access is obtained by a flight of 
 There is also a large warehouse, belonging 
 to the king, resembling the body of a church 
 without a tower. 
 
 The following cruel practice is said to have 
 been observed during the dark age of it! 
 and so late as the reign of the last king, Tame- 
 hameha. The shark 'was distinguish 
 divine honours here as in the South 1' 
 When, therefore, the king or the priests of r this 
 divinity, so worthy of its worshippers, inr 
 that the shark wanted food, they sallied forth 
 with their attendants, one of whom carried n 
 rope with a ready-prepared running noose 
 attached to it. Then, wherever they found a 
 number of persons assembled, the rope was 
 thrown unexpectedly among them (in the same 
 manner as the Spaniards of South America 
 catch wild cattle in the herd), and whoever hap- 
 pened to be taken in the snare, whether man, 
 woman, or child, was strangled upon the spot, 
 the body cut in pieces, and thrown into the 
 sea to be bolted down by the rapacious fishes, 
 to appease their supposed anger or propitiate 
 their favour in some iniquitous enterprise. 
 
 At the village of Wytiti, about four miles to 
 the east of Honoruru, there formerly lived a 
 chief of singular ferocity ; Giant Despair him- 
 self, in the Pilgrim's Progress, was not more 
 brutal and reckless. When he had a fancy to 
 offer a human sacrifice he would set out in his 
 ttflaoe, with a single servant in the dead of the 
 night, and come down the bay till he got along- 
 shore close by the town. The two harpies 
 would then raise a lamentable cry, as though 
 they were perishing in the water ; when the 
 first person who happened to be alarmed, and, 
 from the instinct of humanity, flew to their re- 
 lief, was pounced upon, his back broken, and 
 his corpse carried off to be presented at the inarae. 
 
CANNIBALISM A RICH NEGRO RESIDENT. 
 
 Ill 
 
 In the year 1804, when the late king Tame- 
 hameha was on his way from Hawaii to invade 
 Tauai, he halted with an army of eight thou- 
 sand men at Oahu. The yellow fever broke 
 out among the troops, and in the course of a 
 few days swept away more than two-thirds of 
 them. " During the plague the king repaired to 
 the great marae at Wytiti to conciliate the god, 
 whom he supposed to be angry. The priests 
 recommended a ten days' tabu, the sacrifice of 
 three human victims, four hundred hogs, as 
 many cocoa-nuts, and an equal number of 
 bunches of plantains (tnusa paradisaica) . Three 
 men, who had been guilty of the enormous tur- 
 pitude of eating cocoa-nuts with the old queen 
 (the present king's mother), were accordingly 
 seized and led to the marae. But there being 
 yet three days before the offerings could be 
 duly presented, the eyes of the victims were 
 scooped out, the bones of their arms and legs 
 were broken, and they were then deposited in 
 a house to await the coup de grace on the day 
 of sacrifice. While these maimed and miserable 
 creatures were in the height of their suffering, 
 some persons, moved by curiosity, visited them 
 in prison, and found them neither raving nor 
 desponding, but sullenly singing the national 
 fmni dull as the drone of a bagpipe, and 
 hardly more variable as though they were in- 
 sensible of the past and indifferent to the future. 
 When the slaughtering time arrived one of 
 them was placed tinder the legs of the idol, and 
 the other two were laid with the hoijs and fruit 
 upon the altar-frame. They wore then beaten 
 v\ith clubs upon the shoulders till they died of 
 the blows. This was told us by an eye-witness 
 of the murderous spectacle. *And thus men 
 kill one another, and think that they do God 
 service. 
 
 We are assured that cannibalism was for- 
 merly not unusual here. At the close of a 
 battle the victors kindled tires upon the field, 
 and, after slighth broiling the bodies of their 
 slain enemies over the flames, they greedily de- 
 voured the flesh, tearing it from the bones like 
 vultures or dogs, and glorying in their gluttony 
 n - eet part of their revenge. 
 
 There is a man in prison here, at this time, 
 for having beaten another so cruelly as to en- 
 danger his life. The law in such a case is, that 
 if the injured person die the assailant must cat 
 him. This is considered the most horrible and 
 degardin^ of punishments, though cannibalism 
 was formerly a feat of heroism. Where the 
 issue proves fatal the body of the dead man is 
 thrown into the prison, and his murderer must 
 either live upon the loathsome provision while 
 it lasts, or perish, as no other food is allowed 
 till that be entirely consumed. We should ques- 
 tion, however, whether so unnatural a. penalty ( 
 would be enforced under the improved state of 
 national feeling which has superseded so many 
 other barbarian u 
 
 April 23. Near the village of Wytiti we were 
 introduced to an African negro, named Allen, 
 who has resided here several years in good 
 circumstances. He is married to a native wo- 
 man, by whom he has three children. His 
 
 grounds are extensive, well cultivated, and lie 
 within a ring-fence, having, besides those in his 
 own occupation, several comfortable dwellings 
 tenanted by families in his employment. It is 
 common for persons who can afford such an 
 establishment to have distinct buildings for 
 eating, sleeping, cooking, &c., each being only 
 one room. This negro's premises and lands 
 are all in remarkably good order ; cleanliness 
 and regularity distinguishing the houses, furni- 
 ture, persons, and behaviour of all his associates 
 and dependents. His present flock of goats 
 amounts to two hundred, having been lately 
 reduced one half below the usual average by 
 the great demand, from ship-captains, for pro- 
 visions of this kind : he sells the animals to 
 them at prices according to their size, from half 
 a dollar to three dollars a-head. He also breeds 
 and keeps a great number of dogs to supply the 
 native flesh-market, and deals largely in spirit- 
 uous liquors a trade more profitable, we fear, 
 than beneficial to himself or his customers, for, 
 the latter being principally sailors, the Sabbath- 
 day is miserably profaned by the traffic, and 
 the debauchery attending the traffic, in these 
 pestilent commodities. We ventured to expos- 
 tulate with him on the subject, but he justified 
 himself by saying that he could not help it. We 
 hear that he practises physic, in addition to 
 farming, grazing, and dram-selling, and is often 
 consulted both by natives and seamen, having 
 gained credit also in this profession. We could 
 not but rejoice in beholding the prosperity of 
 the poor African in this land of exile, but not 
 of slavery, to him, though living, like all the 
 rest of its inhabitants, at the mercy of an arbi- 
 trary sovereign, who might at any time take all 
 he has, and life itself, away in a fit of caprice. 
 
 April 25. We walked to the mountains which 
 rise north-east of the Missionary-house. The 
 footpath up the highest eminence lies along a 
 very steep uneven ridge, and is very difficult as 
 well as hazardous to scale. This task occupied 
 several hours to accomplish. By the way we 
 passed some plots of ground curiously prepared 
 and planted with the sweet potato. This was 
 clone by pulling up, by the roots, the long tufts 
 of grass and leaving them upon the ground to 
 keep in the moisture. The earth had been 
 loosened by means of a small iron tool, three 
 inches broad and five long, fastened by a socket 
 to a long wooden handle. In the furrows or 
 holes thus opened stalks of the potato are in- 
 serted, which, in the course of a few weeks, 
 produce abundant roots ; and thus three crops 
 are annually obtained. The flanks of the 
 mountains or rather the upper two-thirds of 
 their ascent are, in general, the richest soil 
 of this island; the lower slopes, and the 
 levels between their base and the lagoon, 
 being comparatively unproductive. On this hill 
 we found the gigantic fern (cyathea arborca), 
 the roots of which the natives in times of 
 scarcity use for food, growing in prodigious 
 fecundity. The stem sometimes measures six 
 feet in height and twenty-two inches in cir- 
 cumference. The root, when baked with hot 
 stones, has an insipid and slightly acrid taste. 
 
112 
 
 DISTILLATION FROM THE TII-PLANT MOUNTAIN SCENERY. 
 
 The summit of this mountain is exceedingly 
 abrupt, and yet vegetation in all its indigenous 
 forms climbs to the very top, and makes it 
 " shake like Lebanon." Here the prospect is 
 magnificent and multifarious. North, east, and 
 west, peaks over peaks of singular grandeur and 
 diversity of shape present themselves, as monu- 
 ments of omnipotence and supporters of " the 
 pillared firmament." Southward, beneath and 
 beyond to the uttermost horizon, where sky 
 and ocean are " one and indivisible," the double 
 harbour, the reposing ships, the reefs on which 
 the waves are breaking, the scattered islets, and 
 the nearer sea stretching its many arms far in- 
 land, arrest and enchant, in succession, but 
 cannot detain the eye that delights to be be- 
 wildered amidst a multitude of beautiful objects, 
 rather than dwell individually on the loveliest of 
 them. Immediately below the pinnacle on 
 which we stood a confluence of valleys, that 
 intersect the everlasting hills adjacent, here 
 meeting, reveal their irregular. recesses, of intri- 
 cate length, and from two to three thousand 
 feet deep, enclosed by precipices which, to the 
 unpractised sight, seem nearly perpendicular. 
 Yet, steep as these declivities may be, they are 
 covered with flowering shrubs or lofty trees ; the 
 tii-plant, the ginger, bananas, &c., grow abun- 
 dantly upon their sides ; and, what gives to an 
 English ear the charm (without which woods 
 are wildernesses), the notes of " birds that sing 
 among the branches" mingle with the murmurs 
 of the wind, the pattering of casual rain-drops 
 on the leaves, and the low undefinable harmony 
 of sounds ascending from a spacious lagoon, 
 spotted with vessels at anchor, or alive with 
 boats in motion, and a shore thronged with idle 
 yet busy groups, issuing from the village or 
 sauntering by the water-side. 
 
 April 26. In the afternoon we rambled 
 through some of the valleys on the west side 
 of the great mountain, called by foreigners 
 Punch-bowl Hill, from its singularly hollowed 
 summit, having been doubtless the crater of an 
 extinguished volcano. There are many dwell- 
 ing! scattered through these retired sceii' 
 we were much struck with the circumstance 
 that the further we penetrated into the interior 
 the comelier and healthier the people appear 
 few being disfigured with those horrible ulcers 
 and blotches which are sad tokens that vicious 
 European intercourse has brought plagues into 
 these remote regions, from which the inhabitants 
 were previously exempt, impure as were their 
 morals and habits. 
 
 Children are placed on the mother's back as 
 soon as they can be taught to cling with their 
 arms round her neck, while her hand* are 
 clasped behind to form a footstool for the little 
 one to stand upon. In the Society Islands in- 
 fants are always borne astride on the hips. Per- 
 sons of both sexes walk remarkably erect, and 
 with a certain natural gracefulness; they run 
 and climb also with surprising agility. In 
 many houses we saw the boards, called papa 
 li run, with which they amuse and exercise 
 themselves in swimming. These boards are 
 eight or ten feet long, wider at one end than 
 
 the other, and convex on both sides. From the 
 pains with which these are constructed, and 
 their recurrence almost everywhere, the natives 
 must greatly delight in the diversion for which 
 they are adapted. 
 
 April 28. On our walk to-day, nearly five 
 miles from the Missionary-house, we had an 
 opportunity of examining a distillery, where a 
 bad but very potent spirit, something like rum 
 in flavour, is extracted from the tii-plant (dra- 
 ccena terminalis). For this purpose the roots 
 only are used. These are three or four inches 
 in diameter, and from a foot and a half to two 
 feet long. They are first baked among hot 
 stones, when the taste becomes very sweet, and 
 the substance assumes a yellowish brown colour. 
 This, being macerated in water, in vast quanti- 
 ties at a time, undergoes fermentation. There 
 were on these premises six old canoes filled with 
 pulp in that state. The apparatus consists of 
 two iron boilers, fixed on one side of a trench, 
 twenty feet long, eight broad, and two deep. 
 Upon these, which contain about tw-. 
 Ions each, are placed wooden covers perforated 
 with wide holes, over which are erected cylin- 
 ders eighteen inches high and twelve wide, 
 having attached to each of them a wooden tube 
 two feet in length, considerably wider towards 
 the upper end, and surmounted by a conical 
 copper cap, which condenses the steam. The 
 pulp being put into the boilers, and fire applied, 
 the liquor runs from a small pipe into a vessel 
 below, no worm being used in the process. 
 
 Not far from this spirit-manufactory we 
 reached one of the highest accessible points in 
 this island, and stood in front of another and 
 far loftier precipice, probably 5000 feet in nearly 
 perpendicular elevation, which the eye m> 
 from top to bottom at a glance, while behind it 
 a mountainous ridge, nearly two-thirds of that 
 height, rises with an aspect apparently as steep, 
 but more broken and singularly indented with 
 projections and interstices ; the head of the 
 whole being adorned " with a peculiar diadem 
 of trees." The rock on which we stood con- 
 sists of volcanic materials. Many beautiful 
 plants and shrubs, including a new kind of 
 stonecrop (secdum dimricatuin), and a heath 
 bearing a red berry (erica baccans), overrun its 
 declivity and apex. From the latter it makes 
 the head swim to look down the former ; yet 
 over its tremendous verge the late king, Tame- 
 hameha, drove the remnant of an army of his 
 enemies, whom he had defeated in the valley 
 below, and pursued with unquenchable t hirst 
 f revenge up this eminence, whither they lied 
 for sanctuary, but found it not till they leaped 
 the gulf and perished miserably in mass, heaps 
 upon heaps, in the glen at its foot. Hard by were 
 pointed out to us four uiishapen stones, on 
 which no tool had been lifted up to profane 
 them, the highest eighteen inches above ground, 
 the others less. These are still regarded as the 
 tutelary divinities of the place, and their pro- 
 tection is sought by those who clamber these 
 perilous cliffs, that they may be preserved from 
 slips and broken bones in returning. The 
 offerings are flowers and foliage, scattered about 
 
TRADITIONS SCHOONER PRESENTED TO RIHORIHO. 
 
 113 
 
 the senseless blocks by intellectual beings as 
 senseless as they having reason without exer- 
 cising it, or even knowing that they possess it, 
 in reference to such subjects. The top of one, 
 probably the chief idol, was covered with a 
 piece of native cloth, to prevent (as we presume) 
 vulgar eyes from impiously gazing upon its 
 hidden majesty. While we were looking on, a 
 man came by, having three large fern-leaves in 
 his hand, which he placed reverently before 
 three of these genii loci. We shook our heads, 
 and said, " Kino, Kino !" (bad, bad !) He only 
 smiled and Avent forward, having thus insured 
 his neck and limbs on his way downward. 
 This was the first instance of actual idolatry 
 which we have witnessed; and, what hor- 
 ror soever mingled with pity we felt at the 
 strangeness of the sight, it must be allowed that 
 there are superstitious observances yet in vogue 
 in our own land not a whit less absurd than 
 propitiating the favour of a stone with a fern- 
 leaf; such, for example, as placing two cross 
 sticks of mountain-ash over the door of a house, 
 to keep the witch out ; which is done to this 
 day, not in dark country corners only, but occa- 
 sionally in the streets of populous towns. We 
 were told that if a man and his wife be coming 
 this way, and the woman have a good piece of 
 cloth about her person, the man will run for- 
 ward and throw his own cloth over the princi- 
 pal stone till she has passed by, lest the blind 
 idol should see and covet her garment, which 
 must then be given to it. 
 
 To the spot where we were standing, and 
 from which the sea on both sides of the island 
 (sixteen miles across here) lies in full prospect, 
 some time ago, a woman was compelled by her 
 husband, when he was in a state of intoxication, 
 to carry him up those very precipices which we 
 had found such imminent danger in scaling un- 
 encumbered with any weight but our own per- 
 sons. This Herculean feat she performed, and 
 lodged him safely on the top. The greater 
 wonder is that she did not, under such provo- 
 cation from a wretch utterly in her power, let 
 him down by the shortest way. The fellow was 
 an Englishman, a pilot of this harbour ; and it 
 is difficult to say which exceeded his brutish- 
 ness or her strength ; her forbearance, at any 
 rate, equalled either. 
 
 April 29. There are no mosquitoes here ; 
 neither are there any bugs. When the latter 
 are brought on shore, in bedding or packages, 
 from ship-board, they presently die : the climate 
 of the Society Islands is equally fatal to them. 
 Flies are very numerous and annoying. Toads, 
 frogs, and serpents, we believe, are not found 
 on any of these shores. The variety of birds is 
 small. The tropic bird, a grey owl, a kind of 
 plover, and common poultry, may be added to 
 the few that we have previously mentioned. 
 Quadrupeds are nearly as little diversified, 
 there being few besides dogs, hogs, rats, mice, 
 and (latterly introduced) horses, cows, sheep, 
 goats and cats. Entering a cottage one day, 
 where there was a very fine animal of the latter 
 species, we asked the woman of the house whe- 
 ther the natives of Oahu ate cats ; on which she 
 
 pointed to a fowl, that was picking up its food 
 at her feet, and said, " The cat is as good to eat 
 as the hen." These people, though they feed 
 greedily upon the flesh of dogs and cats when 
 they can procure it, are singularly tender and 
 kind to them. In travelling, they frequently 
 take up their dogs, and carry them over dirty or 
 rugged parts of the road, lest they should soil 
 their skins or hurt their feet ; and it is said a 
 man would sooner resent an injury done to his 
 dog than to his child. The few spiders, moths, 
 and dragon-flies, which we have seen, much re- 
 semble those of the South Sea Islands. 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 Captain Kent presents the Schooner to Rihoriho, in the 
 name of his Britannic Majesty Anecdotes of cruelty 
 Mr. Haggles, the American Missionary Conversation 
 with the King Tabued Sugar-plantation Rainbows- 
 Anniversary of Rihoriho' s Accession- Circumstances 
 which tended to the spontaneous Overthrow of Idola- 
 try, before Christian Missionaries had arrived in the 
 Sandwich -Islands Royal Dinner Native Houses 
 Proposition from the chiefs to receive Missionaries 
 from the London Society Bravery of some of the old 
 Chiefs Child-murder -Felling of Trees to make 
 Idols Want of Parental Authority Foolish Etiquette 
 of the former King. 
 
 APRIL 30. The king and several of his wives 
 came to the English service in the Missionary 
 chapel this morning. All behaved as well as they 
 could, but presently retired. Rihoriho threw 
 himself at full length on a form, and while one 
 attendant, squatting beside, fanned him with a 
 long fly-flap, another lay down on the ground, 
 and covered himself with a piece of cloth, for 
 the purpose of being his majesty's pillow, had 
 he chosen to rest on the floor rather than on the 
 bench. His ladies, who were not ungracefully 
 attired in loose green dresses, sat and lolled in 
 a group, just within the door, from time to time 
 handing a pipe about among themselves. 
 
 May 1. At noon Captain Kent formally de- 
 livered up the schooner which he had brought 
 from Port Jackson, as a present from his Bri- 
 tannic Majesty, to the King of the Sandwich 
 Islands. The latter came on board to take 
 possession. When Captain Kent proposed to 
 take down the English colours, the king said 
 " No no ; I shall always hoist the English flag." 
 In fact, he makes no secret of acknowledging 
 his dependence for friendly protection, at 
 least, against all other nations on our country 
 and its illustrious sovereign, of whom he has 
 conceived no insignificant idea. Royal salutes 
 were fired from the ships and the batteries on 
 shore. A substantial entertainment, in the 
 English fashion, being prepared, meanwhile, in 
 the king's house, at Captain Kent's expense, a 
 company of twenty-five, consisting of Rihoriho, 
 his principal chiefs, the officers of the two ships, 
 several Americans, and ourselves, sat down, to 
 it in the afternoon. Before dinner, while we 
 were conversing in the house with Taumuarii 
 (lately king of Tauai), a man from that island 
 a minstrel came, and, sitting down without 
 ceremony, sang a long, dull lay of a few low, 
 slow, notes, unweariedly repeated, in which 
 were celebrated the deeds and virtues of the 
 monarch and his ancestors. Two elegantly 
 
 I 
 
114 
 
 ANECDOTES OF CRUELTY. 
 
 carved paddles were then presented to him ; 
 and a large bundle of cloth was likewise brought 
 to his queen, by a woman from the same island. 
 The latter was dressed in the first style of na- 
 tive fashion, having ten folds of fine wrapping 
 round her body, and a mantle thrown over her 
 shoulders. 
 
 After dinner, at the house of Mr. Davies, we 
 had much conversation with him and a person 
 Avhom he employs, who has resided at this 
 
 | place many years, respecting former tyrannical 
 and idolatrous practices of priests and princes 
 here. Two circumstances, among others, were 
 mentioned, horribly illustrative of these. A 
 man being convicted of stealing some of the 
 king's clothes, and condemned to death, a stone 
 was fastened about his neck, and he was placed 
 
 I in a canoe, in charge of an executioner, with a 
 bayonet in his hand, ready, as soon as they had 
 been paddled out to a sufficient distance and 
 depth of water, to stab the criminal, and then 
 throw him overboard to perish among the waves. 
 Captain Davies's ship happening at that time to 
 be at anchor in the harbour, and he on deck, 
 the suspicious circumstance was observed, and, 
 the meaning of it being ascertained, a boat 
 was instantly manned, which put oft' towards 
 the canoe, attacked it, and rescued the unfor- 
 tunate wretch before the punishment could be 
 inflicted on him. Mr. G. (the person above 
 mentioned) being present once at a marae, 
 when certain execrable rites were to be per- 
 formed, and a human sacrifice being wanted, 
 one of the priests looked out for a subject, 
 when, seeing a man sitting on the ground, near 
 the entrance of this temple of Satan, he stole 
 softly behind him, ainl with one stroke of a 
 club broke his neck. Then, instantly scooping 
 out one of the eyes of the murdered victim, he 
 coolly presented it on a plantain-leaf to the 
 idol. These are traits of man in what is called 
 his state of nature, which many, who ought to 
 know better, imagine to be a state of inno- 
 cence, and talk, very poetically no doubt, of the 
 primitive simplicity of these happy islanders ; 
 at the same time lamenting that their peace in 
 this world, ;unl their prospects in the next, 
 should be disturbed by Missionaries, who have 
 nothing superior to the gospel to give them ! 
 
 May 3. Mr. Ruggles, one of the American 
 Missionaries, gave us the following anecdote 
 respecting his late father, who was a minister of 
 the gospel. One day, while he was preaching, a 
 party of Indians came suddenly upon the con- 
 gregation, scattered them, and carried him away 
 into the forest. At night he was left under the 
 charge of two women, while the men went to 
 rest ; but his female keepers, as well as Un- 
 faithful dogs, falling asleep also, he took the 
 opportunity to make his escape. lie had not 
 fled far before he heard the alarm-cry, and the 
 crashing of the bushes behind warned him that 
 the enemy were already in close pursuit of him. 
 In his distress he crept, with little hope of 
 safety, into a hollow tree, at whose foot there 
 happened to be an opening through which he 
 could squeeze his body and stand upright 
 within. The Indians soon rushed by in full 
 
 
 chase, without stopping to search his retreat, and, 
 what is more extraordinary, their dogs had pre- 
 viously smelt about the root of the tree, and 
 run forward without barking, as though they 
 had discovered nothing. AVe were told also of 
 another capture and escape, yet more singular. 
 Two boys were seized by two Indians, the one 
 of whom was armed with a musket and the 
 other with a tomahawk. They marched their 
 little prisoners before them as far as they could 
 that day into the wilderness. At night, when 
 all were well wearied, the men lay down and 
 slept soundly : the boys lay down also, but re- 
 solutely kept themselves awake, meditating the 
 means of recovering their liberty. There ap- 
 peared but one way to kill their captors on 
 the spot ; nor were they long before they had 
 concerted a plan to do this, in whispers that 
 disturbed not the enemy. The elder (thirteen 
 years of age) took up the tomahawk, and held 
 it over the head of one sleeper, directing the 
 younger (only eleven years old) to place the 
 muzzle of the musket close to the head of the 
 other, and keep his hand upon the trigger, ready- 
 to fire the moment when he himself should 
 strike. Daring as the experiment was, it suc- 
 ceeded ; for though the Indian nearly i 
 after the first blow of the tomahawk", the se- 
 cond brought him to the ground again, where 
 he was quickly dispatched, while the contents 
 of the musket at once passed through the head 
 and blew out the brains of his comrade. The 
 lads then returned home, with the trophies of 
 their bloody triumph, to the joy and amaze- 
 ment of their relatives, who concluded that they 
 must have been irrecoverably kidnapped, and 
 least of all expected that they could be de- 
 livered by their own pro 
 
 We had a long interview with the kin^, 
 to-day, at which we urged upon him the 
 propriety of publicly adopting Christianity, as 
 the religion of his dominions, on the ensuing 
 anniversary of the tabu (as formerly narrated, 
 ee April 3,) and the destruction of idolatry. 
 He readily professed a wish that his family and 
 subjects should become Christians, but inti- 
 mated that the principal chi .\crseto 
 it at present ; and that it would require time, as 
 well as a further knowledge of the subject, to 
 reconcile them to so great a change. How- 
 ever, at the coming festival, we might say 
 something to the people who should be assem- 
 bled, to instruct them rightly concerning the 
 advantages that would accrue to them if they 
 received and obeyed the good word ; after which 
 he would sanction what we had advanced, and 
 thus endeavour to prepare their minds for the 
 reception of the gospel : ' And yet," he added, 
 ' I am afraid that there will be such a noise of 
 cannon, and such a shouting of the multitude, 
 that nothing will be heard." 
 
 May 4. Passing across the large plain near 
 the town, we observed, in a sugar-plantation, 
 a pole, ten feet high, on which was suspended 
 a bit of white stick, twelve inches long, notched 
 at one cud, and having remnants of the bones 
 of a fowl attached to it. This we leannd was 
 a tabu, prohibiting anybody from stealing the 
 
ANNIVERSARY OF RIHORIHO'S ACCESSION. 
 
 115 
 
 canes growing there. The bones intimated 
 thnt a certain dog having killed that fowl, if he 
 had the audacity to venture near the premises 
 again he would be killed in his turn ; nor was 
 this a silly warning to a brute that could not 
 take it, but a necessary legal notice, dogs being 
 so valuable that it would be a heinous crime, 
 and severely punishable, to destroy one, the pro- 
 perty of another "person, except under the sanc- 
 tion of a tabu which the animal had violated. 
 
 We found a man plucking out his beard in- 
 stead of shaving himself. In one hand he held 
 a small looking-glass, and with the other, by 
 means of an elastic fish-scale, doubled between 
 his finger and thumb and used as a pair of 
 tweezers, he very deliberately rooted up hair 
 after hair, without any contortions of face, and, 
 if he was to be believed, without much pain. 
 
 The frequency of rainbows, in these volcanic 
 islands, must strike every stranger who remarks 
 the characteristic phenomena of nature in dif- 
 ferent regions. The ground being heaved into 
 enormous mountains, with steep and narrow 
 dells between, the sun, both before and after he 
 passes the meridian, is continually faced by 
 superb eminences, on which 
 
 " The weary clouds, oft labouring rest," 
 
 and showers fall many times in a day, from 
 divers quarters, accompanied by brilliant seg- 
 ments of the glorious arch, which, under certain 
 happy circumstances, may be seen bestriding 
 the island itself, from sea to sea or resting one 
 foot upon the sea and the other on the earth, 
 like the angel in the Apocalypse, who was him- 
 self " clothed with a cloud, and had a rainbow 
 over his head." 
 
 May G. Having previously endeavoured, in 
 vain, to persuade the king to adjourn till to- 
 morrow the anniversary feast of his accession to 
 power and the abolition of idolatry, this being 
 the Sabbath, we declined an invitation to dine 
 with him, which he took in good part. The 
 morning was ushered in with firing of guns, 
 both from the shore and the ships, the latter 
 displaying their national flags. Great quanti- 
 ties of clothing had been distributed by the 
 king and his queens to their guards and officers, 
 for military and court dresses, wherein they 
 appeared, in public, on this occasion. We held 
 divine service, as usual, at which a few strag- 
 glers, from the crowds about the royal resi- 
 dence attended. Mr. Tyerman preached in the 
 forenoon, from Isaiah Ix. 1. "Arise, shine, 
 for thy light is come ;" and his discourse was 
 interpreted, paragraph after paragraph, by Tho- 
 mas Hipoo, a native; but, though it was "the 
 voice of one crying in the wilderness," yet was 
 the messenger of mercy emboldened to " spare 
 not ;" for this was the proclamation, " Prepare 
 ye the way of the Lord ; make straight in the 
 desert a highway for our God." Yes, and even 
 here, where the natural scenery so picturesquely 
 realizes the prophetic images, " Every valley 
 shall be exalted, and every mountain and hill 
 shall be made low ; and the crooked shall be 
 made straight, and H\G rough places even: * * * 
 for the mouth of the Lord hath spoken it." 
 
 Mr. Ellis preached in the afternoon, in Tahi- 
 tian, from Acts xvii. 30 : " And the times of 
 this ignorance God winked at, but now cqm- 
 mandeth all men, everywhere, to repent." 
 And, truly, " this scripture was fulfilled, this 
 day, in ears" that probably never heard the 
 joyful sound before ; yet we had reason to fear 
 that the " words seemed to them as idle tales, 
 and they believed them not." No marvel ; and 
 no discouragement, we confidently add ; for so 
 to the disciples themselves seemed the words of 
 those who first preached Jesus and the resur- 
 rection the women who had met him as they 
 returned from the sepulchre, where they found 
 Him not. Luke xxiv. 11. Yet, during this 
 latter discourse, some of the young women who 
 had lived in the Missionary families appeared 
 much affected by what they heard, and shed 
 many tears. 
 
 May 7. Various circumstances had gradually 
 prepared the mind of the king and his people 
 for the abandonment of idolatry, before the bold 
 decision was adopted. Since the discovery of 
 these islands, many natives had, from time to 
 time, visited foreign lands by vessels that came 
 hither for purposes of commerce. These, when 
 they returned, informed their countrymen that 
 the people of England, America, and New 
 Holland, did not worship such stupid blocks as 
 their stone and wooden idols, but had one God 
 only, who was not to be seen himself, though 
 he saw and heard and knew everything in the 
 world. A youth, called Joseph Banks (after 
 Sir Joseph Banks, Captain Cook's companion), 
 had been much abroad, and was a shrewd ob- 
 server of all that came under his notice. One 
 day, when he was disputing against the super- 
 stitions of his country, a priest affirmed that, if 
 the maraes were forsaken, there would be no 
 rain, and everything would be burnt up. He re- 
 plied : " In England and America there are no 
 idols, no tabus, yet there is plenty of rain there 
 and fine crops too. In Tahiti and Huahirie 
 they have broken the tabus and destroyed the 
 idols, and worship the God of the white men, 
 yet the rain falls there, and the fruits grow as 
 abundantly as ever. And why should not rain 
 fall and the ground produce food here as well 
 as elsewhere, when these senseless things are 
 done awayl" The priest was confounded. 
 
 Foreigners, also, experiencing much annoy- 
 ance from the tabus, which frequently prevented 
 commercial intercourse on days thus set apart 
 for idleness, endeavoured to prejudice the people 
 against such absurd restrictions ; and they suc- 
 ceeded at least in loosening their bigoted attach- 
 ment to them. Besides this, the present king 
 had been brought up, almost from his infancy, 
 among European and American traders and 
 whalers. From these, of course, he received 
 some degree of bias, which eventually produced 
 indifference towards the religion of his ances- 
 tors, if not contempt for it, long before the death 
 of his father. The chiefs also from familiarity 
 with strangers, insensibly adopted portions of 
 their manners and notions, as well as of their 
 dress. Many of these, indeed, were impious 
 enough to eat at the same board, and of the 
 
 i 2 
 
116 
 
 POWER OF SUPERSTITION WEAKENED ROYAL DINNER. 
 
 same food, with their wives, in private, years 
 before the caste of sex was broken by Rihoriho, 
 at a public feast, quitting the table of the men 
 to dine with the women. 
 
 John Adams, the present governor of Hawaii, 
 having been ill a longtime, consulted the priest, 
 who advised him to sacrifice liberally to the 
 gods, otherwise he had no chance of recover- 
 ing. Hog after hog, therefore, was sent to the 
 marae, and duly disposed of by the priests, till 
 the number amounted to forty ; yet the patient 
 grew no better. Upon this, he resolved to save 
 his bacon in future, and take the consequences. 
 The priests were mightily enraged, and threaten- 
 ed sad things, none of which came to pass ; on 
 the contrary, John soon afterwards became well. 
 
 Towards the latter end of the late king's 
 reign, a volcanic eruption in Hawaii threatened 
 the total destruction of that island, according 
 to the fears of the natives. To appease the angry 
 demon who was the supposed author of this 
 havoc the priests demanded of the king a great 
 number of hogs, which were to be thrown into 
 the sea. Tamehameha, though a-sturdy idolater, 
 had the hardihood to refuse compliance with 
 this preposterous request ; and the island, in due 
 time, recovered " its propriety." We are as- 
 sured that, a short time before his death, lie 
 sought information concerning the Christian re- 
 ligion from one who professed it, and resided here 
 at that time ; but this person either could not or 
 would not give it. The old sovereign, therefore, 
 died an avowed idolater, though it was suspected 
 that his religion was only a part of his policy. 
 
 We are informed, by those who attended the 
 festival yesterday, that it was celebrated with 
 unusual decorum. The dinner, at ;the king's 
 house, was in European style. At the principal 
 table, turtle soup, roasted pigs, fowls, beef, &c., 
 with abundant supplies of fruits, were set before 
 the guests, who, besides the king's own family, 
 were, for the most part, Americans and English, 
 captains of ships or residents. About eighty 
 dogs were killed and cooked on this occasion ; 
 but the natives never offer this deli< 
 strangers, who hold it in abhorrence. The chiefs 
 and their attendants, therefore, monopolized 
 that part of the provision. The favourite queen 
 presented herself to her husband, according to 
 etiquette, wrapped round with a piece of native 
 cloth, so long and broad that she was almost 
 hidden under th'e folds, like a caterpillar beneath 
 its web. To array herself in this unwieldly 
 robe, the cloth had been spread out on the 
 ground, when, beginning at one end, she threw 
 her body across it, and rolled over and over, 
 from side to side, till she had wound the whole 
 about her. After she had shown herself thus 
 apparelled in " the presence," her majesty lay 
 down again upon the floor, and unrolled the cloth, 
 by reversing the process of clothing ; she then 
 gathered it up and presented the bundle to the 
 king. While engaged in this ludicrous court- 
 ceremony, women were dancing and singing 
 around her in the most frantic native style. 
 But though the feast, in other respects, was 
 conducted with comparative decency and tem- 
 perance in the royal circle, the multitude with- 
 
 out, and at their own homes, indulged in all 
 the excesses and abominations which were com- 
 mon in their state of savages and idolaters 
 a state as yet little changed, except in name. 
 
 This day, on our walk, we entered a house 
 adjacent to the king's, in which several of his 
 queens, and a number of the wives of principal 
 chiefs, about twenty in all, were seated at a large 
 table, while a servant in waiting supplied them 
 with ardent spirits, raw, or mixed with water, 
 as each in turn required. These they drank in 
 quantities which showed that they were no 
 novices. The social pipe circulated with the 
 glass from hand to mouth. These high dames 
 were variously dressed in native or European 
 costume ; some having on silk or calico gowns, 
 with rich coloured feather tippets, while 
 others wore a few folds of scarlet cloth about 
 their loins, and necklaces made of platted 
 human hair, with a crooked pendant made of 
 the tooth of the sperm whale, in \ front. One 
 of these necklaces will frequently consist of four 
 or five hundred strings, and measure, when 
 drawn out in one length, from two hundred and 
 fifty to three hundred yards. They are very 
 highly prized, and none but the chief women 
 can afford such costly ornaments. 
 
 At another table sat a goodly company of 
 men, in military array, namely in European 
 clothes, with cocked hats on their heads, and 
 canes in their hands. These were] chiefs. Be- 
 hind the tables lay two groups of native soldiers, 
 head and feet, on the floor ; some in blue uni- 
 forms, faced with red, and others in white, 
 turned up with blue. The whole scene was 
 heterogeneous, and, as a mere spectacle for the 
 eyo, amusing enough ; but the heart aches with 
 misgivings, which cannot be expressed, at the 
 sight of human degradation in lands which 
 (jod has made so beautiful, and Satan so vile. 
 
 May 10. In the afternoon, Anna came to tell 
 us that all the great chiefs, including the king 
 and queen of Tauai, had met this morning, and 
 come to a resolution to request him and our 
 Tahitian friends, to remain with them ; and 
 also, if possible, to prevail upon us to consent, 
 on the part of the London Missionary Society, 
 that Mr. Ellis should be stationed here, as their 
 oromedua their teacher, since they were all 
 desirous to learn the good word of God. Though 
 not unprepared for such a proposal, by previous 
 intimations, we were overwhelmed with joy and 
 gratitude at the prospect of the glory of the 
 Lord being indeed risen upon these regions of 
 darkness. To ourselves, now, the reasons began 
 to be manifested why we had been providen- 
 tially diverted from our course to the Marquesas, 
 brought hither, as it were by mischance, and 
 detained here, contrary to our will, by perverse 
 circumstances, which had grievously discon- 
 certed us, though, being of a private nature, 
 we have not particularized them. We allude, 
 generally, to the conduct of captain Kent in 
 refusing to take us back to the Society Islands 
 till he has accomplished a voyage, on a commer- 
 cial speculation, to Tanning's Island, which may 
 occupy several weeks, if not months. Mean- 
 while' it is doubtful whether we can obtain a 
 
BRAVERY OF SOME OF THE OLD CHIEFS. 
 
 117 
 
 passage back to the South Pacific by any other 
 vessel ; those which visit this group being prin- 
 cipally whalers, or sandal-wood merchants, that 
 seldom touch at the former islands. 
 
 May 12. Till this day, no fit opportunity had 
 occurred for waiting upon the king, to know 
 his mind respecting the overture made by the 
 chiefs. Mr. Bingham and Mr. Ellis being ad- 
 mitted to an interview our American Mission- 
 ary friends heartily approving of the plan 
 Rihoriho said at once that he had no objection to 
 Mr. Ellis and his family coming to settle in any 
 part of his dominions ; " but," he observed, " you 
 may find it hard to get food ; this is a poor coun- 
 try ; my subjects are given up to drunkenness, 
 and what will be the use of trying to teach such 
 people !" He seemed, however, much pleased at 
 the idea of Mr. Ellis being stationed near him, 
 and said that he would consult with Krimaku 
 (his prime minister) and other principal advi- 
 sers ; but these having already sanctioned the 
 measure, we feel assured that it may be happily 
 arranged ; the Lord bless and prosper it ! 
 
 May 14. We sailed this morning, in an Ame- 
 rican sloop, for the Pearl River, the mouth of 
 which opens into the sea, on the western coast, 
 about sixteen miles from Honoruru. What we 
 have called the mouth of the river is, in fact, a 
 magnificent arm of the sea, stretching from 
 three to four miles through the level ground, and 
 branching off, in various directions, so as to 
 form a number of beautiful islets, covered with 
 verdure, and one of them stocked abundantly 
 with rabbits. Beyond these, the creek expands 
 into a fine basin, three miles in diameter. 
 Within this there are large sections, enclosed 
 by embankments of earth, raised above the 
 water, in which vast quantities of fish are bred 
 and preserved for the use of the chiefs to whom 
 the several ponds belong. These are said to 
 have been constructed more than a hundred and 
 fifty years ago, by a king named Tatuihava. 
 
 On our cruise we gathered up sundry frag- 
 ments of information concerning the state and 
 manners of the people while they were professed 
 idolaters. In their wars, before Europeans came 
 among them, hostilities were carried on in a 
 very desultory manner, and rarely was a pitched 
 battle fought between two parties of combatants 
 sufficiently numerous to be called armies. There 
 was one very gallant custom common in their 
 skirmishing conflicts. A chief would take the 
 field, clothed in a long cloak of yellow and Ted 
 feathers exquisitely wrought, and reaching to 
 the heels, as well as amply folding over the 
 chest ; his head was likewise accoutred with 
 a gorgeous helmet, correspondingly decked with 
 party-coloured plumage. He bore neither spear 
 nor shield, nor any weapon offensive or defen- 
 sive, but only a fan in his hand, which he bran- 
 dished in front of his antagonists (who were 
 drawn up in a line before him), thus challenging 
 them to begin the attack upon himself singly, 
 while his followers were drawn up, in like man- 
 ner, behind, to support him if necessary. A 
 number of spears were then thrown at him by 
 the enemy ; which, with wonderful dexterity, he 
 contrived to avoid or divert by a stroke of the 
 
 hand, or by stooping, twisting, and turning aside 
 his body ; even when twenty or thirty at a time 
 were falling around him. This fact is attested, 
 whatever be the inference in favour of his skill 
 in defence, or to the discredit of his assailants for 
 aiming their shafts so unluckily. But his task was 
 not all mere evasion. Whenever he could, he 
 caught the spears in the air, and hurled them 
 back, with deadly retaliation, upon his foes. If, 
 in the combat, himself or one of these were slain, 
 a battle royal ensued between the two parties for 
 the dead body, when, of necessity, several others 
 were killed on both sides. On these occasions, 
 the living seemed to fight more desperately for 
 the possession or rescue of the fallen than for 
 themselves ; the bodies of their opponents which 
 could be captured being always sacrificed to the 
 idols, or devoured by the victors. 
 
 Till lately multitudes of children were de- 
 stroyed before or immediately after the birth, 
 when the parents thought their families large 
 enough. Even boys and girls, up to six and 
 seven years of age, were inhumanly murdered, 
 when their fathers and mothers were top idle to 
 provide food and raiment for them any longer. 
 They were the absolute property of those who 
 gave them life, and who might with impunity, 
 any day, give them death. A native and his 
 wife had an only child, a boy about seven years 
 old, of whom they were both passionately fond. 
 On a particular occasion, the father being about 
 to go from home, wished to take his son with 
 him ; the mother objected. He insisted ; high 
 words and hard words ensued, till each was 
 wrought up to a frenzy of obstinate rage. In 
 his paroxysm the father suddenly snatched up 
 the object of contention, and grasping the child's 
 legs above the ancles within one hand, and its 
 arms above the wrists within the other, he broke 
 its back with one stroke across his knee, and 
 then threw the expiring victim of his demoniac 
 passion at the feet of his wife, scarcely less 
 possessed by an evil spirit than himself. Even 
 in this barbarous land such an atrocity shocked 
 the by-standers, one of whom ran off and told 
 the king in great horror, that a man had killed 
 a boy ! " Whose boy was it t" enquired his ma- 
 jesty. "His own," replied the other. "Then 
 that is nothing either to you or to me," was the 
 decision of the sovereign ; implying, that had it 
 been a pig, or a dog, or a boy, belonging to 
 somebody else, which had been killed, the 
 offender must have answered and suffered for 
 it, but that every body had a right to do what 
 he pleased with his own. 
 
 When a new idol was to be manufactured, a 
 royal and priestly procession went forth, with 
 great ceremony, to the destined tree, where the 
 king himself, with a stone axe, laid the first 
 stroke to the root ; and, after it had been felled, 
 a man or a hog was butchered and buried on 
 the spot where it had grown. The principal god 
 of the late Tamehameha was named Turkiidi- 
 maku, a huge unsightly block (for there were 
 no " cunning workmen" here to make " graven. 
 images") ; yet so soon as this scaramouch, fan- 
 tastically dressed with flowers and feathers, was 
 heaved upon a man's shoulders to be carried to or 
 
11H 
 
 \VANT OF PARENTAL AUTHORITY A VA-PLANTATIONS. 
 
 from any particular marae, all the people in the 
 way were obliged to uncover their persons and 
 prostrate themselves on the ground. Karaipa- 
 hoa, however, was the most formidable of their 
 deities, and the fittest symbol of that malignant 
 being, "the god of this world," whom they all 
 represented. This idol was more elaborately 
 shapen and curiously adorned than most of its 
 kindred. It was carved out of a tree that grew 
 in the island of Morokai, the wood of which 
 was said to be so dreadfully deleterious that a 
 little of it, scraped into a mess of food, would 
 turn it into deadly poison. Even the chips of 
 the raw material of this divinity, during the fell- 
 ing of the tree, were so venomous that they killed 
 several persons who happened to be hit by them 
 as they flew off at the blows of the axe, so that 
 the workmen were obliged to cover themselves 
 from head to foot till they had brought trust/pas 
 to the ground. Before the priests ventured to 
 scrape a few particles from the idol, for their 
 devilish purposes, they washed their hands in 
 ava, which was said to be an antidote against 
 the infection. No doubt, however, the bane- 
 ful qualities attributed to this sacre<l 
 were as fabulous as all the other powers ascribed 
 to " the image of the beast" which they sculp- 
 tured out of it. The idol itself is supposed to 
 be still in the possession of Rihoriho, but the 
 Missionaries have never seen it. 
 
 It is a singular custom in these islands, that 
 sons seldom care to work for their own in iin- 
 tenance during the lives of their fathers, the 
 lattrr being compelled to support their wives 
 and children as long as they are able. It is 
 true that none need work very hard for a living 
 in these prolific climes ; but yet indolence is a 
 national sin of the people ; and hence it is the 
 less wonderful that they should heretofore 1m e 
 murdered so many of their offspring when tin- 
 latter became burthensome to them not (as 
 was the case in the Society Islands) that they 
 might indulge in licentiousness, but in idleness. 
 Those, however, whom they did spare, they 
 utterly spoiled, by allowing them uncontrolled 
 liberty to be as mischievous as they chose ; never 
 contradicting or correcting them, though the 
 rebellious children often and unmercifully 
 abused their parents. 
 
 The late king was exceedingly severe and 
 arbitrary. If he were on board a ship in the 
 cabin, and found that any of his own subjects 
 had walked even inadvertently on that part of the 
 deck which was over his head, it would have 
 cost them their lives as soon as they reached 
 shore. When the British government proposed 
 to make him the present of a ves-el, he desired 
 that it might he so built as not to require, in 
 the management, that the sailors should ever 
 step upon the cabin-roof, as none of his people, 
 by the law of his country, were allowed to be 
 above him at any time. So stately, too, was 
 the royal etiquette, during his reign, that who- 
 ever happened to meet the king's calabash of 
 water, as it was brought from the spring to the 
 house, was required to unrobe, and lie down 
 upon the earth, till the bearer of the vessel had 
 gone by. 
 
 About thirty years ago the King of Mauai in- 
 vaded and conquered this island. But, though 
 conquered, the inhabitants were not subdued ; 
 and they conspired to destroy, by stratagem, 
 the enemy whom they could not expel by force. 
 A plot was laid to massacre, in one day, all the 
 chiefs of the invaders. This being discovered, 
 the conqueror determined to cut oft' every native 
 man, woman, and child. For several months 
 he was occupied in this work of extermination, 
 pursuing and huuting out his victims among 
 the woods and mountains. To what extent he 
 was able to carry his vengeance we did not learn. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 District of Waerua Ava-plant.itions Arbitrary Power 
 otthc Chiefs Tax gatherer ; Memorandum-cord Sin- 
 gular Pi'.e of Coral Arrival at Waerua Printing 
 Fibers on native Cloth Way-side Idols IKmoriiru 
 Shampooing Queen at lier Lesson A Salt-lake 
 
 Interview with llihoriho Mortality among Fi-lu 
 
 A clever Woman Ti ad.- with th-- Sandwich M.mders 
 K\il Kl'.cct-, of ardent Spirit* Depiavity of native 
 Children Pilfer ins Two Men devouied l.y Shark* 
 Anniversary uf American Independence Renal Kep:i>t 
 GoodNe>!n>mNukahiva Tliomaslloptxv Hunu ur 
 of projected Awet;. K:ie> .111 Aliornilia- 
 
 ation to the Nathe.- Dn-.im of Kcramioku I'mposal 
 that all the People should be tavu'ht tu i-ad and write. 
 
 MAY 15. "NVe traversed a great part of the 
 north-west coast to reach the district of "Waerna, 
 about twent \-cight miles from the place where 
 we lodged last night. The road lies over an 
 extensive plain, between two chains of moun- 
 tains which run in parallel directions, and the 
 flanks of which are deeply furrowed by vertical 
 ravines, the channels of trickling streams, that 
 often crossed our path. The plain is of red 
 loam, with beds of pebbles and brown sand- 
 rocks breaking through the surface. The hills 
 are decidedly volcanic. On our right hand was 
 pointed out a glen, formerly the haunt of can- 
 nibals, and known by an appellation signifying 
 the same. The wretches who lived in that 
 hideous retirement not only devoured their 
 prisoners taken in war, but preyed upon strag- 
 glers, of any class, whom they could surprise 
 and carry oif to their dens. A large stone is 
 yet seen in this valley hollowed out for the pur- 
 pose of cutting up and dressing their horrible 
 food. The remnant of these worst of wild limits 
 was exterminated, or dispersed, about thirty- 
 years since, and it is said that there is now but 
 one of the tribe surviving, a very old man, who 
 has confessed to Mr. Moxley, our informant, 
 that he has partaken of many a feast on human 
 flesh. Nearly opposite to this valley is another, 
 not inhabited by man-eaters, but cultivated fora 
 purpose eventually much more destructive of the 
 species than the unnatural appetites of the former; 
 cannibals may have slain their hundreds, but 
 ardent spirits their thousands ; and this track 
 is planted, to a great extent, with ava, from 
 which a most pernicious liquor is distilled. 
 
 "We found a shrub here, called kakarioa-, 
 which produces a nut of a very poisonous 
 nature. An herb, called hora, also grows in 
 this district : when pounded into paste it is 
 laid upon stones, at the bottom of pools and 
 streams, when the fish, greedily taking the bait, 
 
SINGULAR PILE OF CORAL PRINTING FLOWER-PATTERNS ON CLOTH. 119 
 
 are intoxicated by it, and easily caught. The 
 opora is a plant used by the natives both to 
 colour and perfume their clothes. 
 
 From the openings into these valleys, after 
 ascending for some time, we came suddenly 
 upon the brink of a stupendous precipice, 
 striking downward, with scarcely any per- 
 ceptible declination from the perpendicular, to 
 the dell beneath, through which ran a rivulet 
 of fresh water ; and on the other side, nearly as 
 steep, but of greater elevation, and crowned 
 with mountains at least seven times higher still, 
 rose a ridge of rock corresponding to that on 
 which we stood. This immense chasm may be 
 seen stretching, on either hand, to a consider- 
 able extent. Our guide said that once when 
 he came hither, being very weary and fainting 
 with thirst, he had offered a native, who was 
 with him, a dollar to fetch him a draught of 
 water from the stream below. The man re- 
 fused, saying, ' What good would a dollar do 
 to me, for it would soon be known that I had 
 it, and then I must give it up to the chief 1" 
 Thus were these miserable peasantry plundered 
 by their rapacious land-owners, of whom they 
 held their little farms. Pigs, dogs, taro, and 
 other produce, are paid by them instead of rent, 
 according to mutual agreement ; but the chief, 
 in addition, can at any time extort from his 
 tenant whatever he sees in his possession and 
 covets ; for, if refused, he may take away his 
 lands immediately, and the poor man has no 
 redress. The tax-gatherers, though they can 
 neither read nor write, keep very exact accounts 
 of all the articles, of all kinds, collected from 
 the inhabitants throughout the island. This is 
 done principally by one man, and the register 
 is nothing more than a line of cordage from 
 four to rive hundred fathoms in length. Dis- 
 tinct portions of this are allotted to the various 
 districts, which are known one from another by 
 knots, loops, and tufts, of different shapes, sizes, 
 and colours. Each tax-payer in the district 
 has his part in this string, and the number of 
 dollars, hogs, dogs, pieces of sandal-wood, quan- 
 tity of taro, &c., at which he is rated, is well 
 defined by means of marks, of the above kinds, 
 most ingeniously diversified. It is probable 
 that the famous quippos, or system of knots, 
 whereby the records of the ancient Peruvian 
 empire are said to have been kept, were a simi- 
 lar, and perhaps not much more comprehensive, 
 mode of reckoning dates and associating names 
 with historical events. 
 
 May 16. Continuing our circuminsular tour 
 we crossed a spacious plain, on the coast, of 
 which the base was coral, and the soil a thin 
 layer of vegetable mould. On this level stands 
 a mound, which might be taken for an artificial 
 monument, consisting of two prodigious masses 
 of coral-rock, the lower about six feet above the 
 surface of the ground, but evidently imbedded 
 in the stratum below ; the upper, laid flat upon 
 this, and overspreading it on every side, mea- 
 sured ninety-three feet in compass, and eight, 
 at least, in the thickest part, the shape being 
 conical. The whole pile reached nearly five 
 yards in height, and, when we consider that the 
 
 substance must have been wrought under water, 
 it is almost a necessary conclusion that the sea 
 has considerably retired from this coast from 
 twenty-five to thirty feet in depth or been re- 
 pelled by some of the volcanic convulsions, 
 which probably heaved the island itself from 
 the bottom of the abyss, at a far distant period 
 in the agency of that Providence of which the 
 records are only preserved in the Eternal Mind. 
 There is no other rock of the same kind within 
 several miles of this irregular formation. It 
 was recently a marae, to which the kings and 
 chiefs repaired to consult Tani, who was wor- 
 shipped at it, on questions of peace and war, 
 and to pray that in battle their bodies might be 
 rendered invulnerable to the spears of their 
 enemies. 
 
 We arrived at Waerua about noon. This is 
 certainly one of the most romantic scenes, con- 
 sisting of mountain, rock, w r ood, river, beach, 
 bay, and sea beyond, that we have yet visited ; 
 but description would so imperfectly distinguish 
 it from others of a similar character, already de- 
 lineated, that we need not expatiate upon it. 
 In the course of this day's journey we passed 
 through many small villages, the inhabitants of 
 which flocked round us and followed us, but, 
 on all occasions, behaved with great respect ; 
 while, everywhere, by the way-side and on the 
 rock, like the sower in the parable, we scattered 
 the " seed of the word," saying to the people, 
 " Krpent, for the kingdom of God is at hand." 
 
 Night overtook us before we could reach the 
 point at which we aimed, but we persevered, 
 and walked a considerable way in the dark. 
 This was very annoying to the king's mes- 
 senger, the guide who accompanied us, who 
 wished to go to roost as soon as day-light failed; 
 but we were birds of another feather. He said, 
 " You white men will always do what you in- 
 tend to do ; nothing can stop you till it is done ; 
 whether over land or through water, by night 
 or by day, nothing can turn you aside. I never 
 saw such men in our islands." Our quarters, 
 when we reached them, appeared very indif- 
 ferent ; but weariness made them welcome, 
 and their shelter comfortable. For several fol- 
 lowing days our progress which was rendered 
 more and more interesting to ourselves by the 
 hospitality of the natives, and the inexhaustible 
 variety of forms of loveliness and grandeur as- 
 sumed by visible nature in this strange province 
 of her Maker's works afforded few incidents 
 to gratify the curiosity of general readers by the 
 detail. At one place, in the house of a chief 
 where we were hospitably entertained, we had 
 an opportunity of witnessing the method of 
 printing flowers and other ornamental figures 
 on the native cloth. Four women were indus- 
 triously employed in this work. The design is 
 neatly engraved upon the sides of thin pieces of 
 bamboo, into the lines of which the colours are 
 introduced by dipping them into calabashes 
 (cocoa-nut shells) containing the dye in a liquid 
 state, and the superfluous matter is thrown off 
 from the smooth surface by striking the bamboo 
 smartly upon the edge of these vessels. The 
 pattern is then carefully transferred to the cloth 
 
120 
 
 WAY-SIDE IDOLS A SALT-LAKE. 
 
 by pressure of the hand ; after which, with the 
 fibre of cocoa-husk, dipped in the colouring 
 matter, any imperfections are supplied, and the 
 whole is delicately finished off. This work is 
 executed with considerable expedition as well 
 as accuracy ; and, if not borrowed from the 
 suggestions of European visitors (which is 
 hardly probable), it maybe said that printing, 
 as well as engraving, are original inventions of 
 the Sandwich islanders, both being used in this 
 ingenious process. 
 
 As we proceeded towards an adjacent village, 
 we had to cross, with great difficulty and some 
 peril, a range of black rocks which overhung 
 the dashing surges with precipices of giddy ele- 
 vation. The path being exceedingly rough, 
 there were placed, at intervals, small heaps of 
 stones with a large block set upright in the 
 centre of each. The latter, in fact, was a local 
 divinity, tufts of grass and wreaths of leaves 
 being devoutly laid around these sanctuaries, 
 by passengers, who thus propitiated his favour 
 that they might be protected from slips and 
 falls by the way. In every instance, when we 
 were strong enough, we tumbled these idols 
 over the edge of the cliffs into the sea, and scat- 
 tered the votive offerings to the wind. On the 
 summit of this stupendous range we found a 
 perfect Pandemonium, consisting of multitudes 
 of these dumb, shapeless fragments of the rock 
 on which we were treading, set up to receive 
 the honours due to God alone. These seemed 
 to be of a superior order, entitled to inhabit a 
 higher region than those on the declivities ; 
 for, in addition to the grass and leaves that 
 strewed their respective shrines, their tops were 
 wrapped round with native cloth. The savage 
 aspect of nature in this scene of utter loneliness 
 and desolation where not a tree or plant grew 
 among the innumerable crags, loose or fixed, 
 that lay like the ruins of a mountain shattered 
 to pieces around and below where we stood 
 was well calculated to affect with superstitious 
 awe an ignorant people, the dupes of wily and 
 mercenary priests, themselves the tools of 
 tyrannical chiefs. Upwards of threescore of 
 these images images no farther than as they 
 were representatives of Satan we hurled from 
 their seats down the precipices, without think- 
 ing that we did any wrong to future travellers 
 who might venture their limbs and lives upon 
 these same dangerous ridges, where, in many 
 places, every step secured might be considered 
 as an escape Avith one's life. Soon, as we 
 hope, will all who visit those scenes be taught 
 to commit their ways to " Him who keepeth 
 Israel," and in whom none who place their 
 confidence shall be confounded ; for they who 
 know Him rightly will put their trust in Him 
 unfearingly. We reached Honoruru on the 
 21st of May. 
 
 At several stations where we halted, on this 
 tour, the people came, and, sitting down beside 
 us, began to perform a native office of kindness, 
 by gently pressing the muscles of our legs and 
 thighs with their hands, to remove any sense of 
 fatigue with walking, Avhile others performed 
 the same courteous office on the back and 
 
 breast. And certainly the operation, though 
 strange at first, was not unpleasant in itself, 
 and it afforded considerable relief from lassitude 
 and the pain of overstrained bodily exertion. 
 This solace to indolence as well as weariness is 
 often administered to the chiefs, who love to lie 
 down flat, with their faces towards the earth, 
 while their attendants knead the small of the 
 back, on either side of the spine, with their 
 hands. Contusions from falls, we are informed, 
 are often successfully treated in this way, by 
 skilful practitioners, to abate the anguish and 
 heal the hurt sustained. 
 
 May 23. Calling upon the king, this day, to 
 thank him for the assistance which he had 
 afforded us, by the appointment of a messenger 
 to accompany us on our late tour, we found the 
 younger queen at her reading-lesson, and were 
 desired to sit down on the mat to help her to 
 get her task. She can spell some easy words, 
 and seems very desirous of learning the English 
 language ; but the king is more disposed to 
 master his own, when reduced to grammatical 
 rules ; saying, that, when he attempts ours, it 
 makes his head ache. 
 
 May 27. Accompanied by the American 
 Missionaries we visited a salt-lake, in the adja- 
 cent village, encompassed by rude hills not more 
 than a hundred feet in elevation, which seem to 
 have been broken into their present forms, out 
 of one agglomerated mass, by a volcanic explo- 
 sion. The lake is a mile and a quarter in length 
 by three quarters in breadth, at the utmost. 
 The water, in no part, we should judge to be 
 more than five or six feet deep ; the whole bot- 
 tom being encrusted with a layer of salt above 
 the black mud, which gives a brilliant and 
 singular appearance to ithe pool as you look 
 down upon it ; while, round about the margin, 
 the flakes of pure salt, snowy white, lie glitter- 
 ing in the sunbeams. The water is a strong 
 brine, clear as crystal, above the surface of 
 which are many small stones covered with salt, 
 that resemble mushrooms growing from below. 
 The plants, sticks, and tufts of grass, scattered 
 on the beach, are, in like manner, delicately 
 frosted with spangles of salt. Here and there 
 distinct masses of the same, attached to the 
 rocks, consist of large cubes, regularly 
 lized, and very beautiful. This lake is the 
 property of the king's mother, who derives a 
 considerable revenue from the sale of its pro- 
 duce. The sal;, when taken from the bottom of 
 the basin, is of the finest grain. This is laid up 
 to dry, in conical heaps, within circles of stones, 
 from three to five feet in diameter, upon long 
 grass spread over the ground. Stones and grass 
 are also laid on the top of each pile, to preserve 
 the bulk, till carried away to market. Near 
 these wholesale stores of the commodity lay 
 quantities of baskets, in which to pack it for 
 use. These were made of tii-leaves, and many 
 of them, containing five or six pounds each, 
 were filled with salt. Hard by there is a salt 
 spring, bubbling up into a basin, a yard in 
 diameter, and running into the lake at the rate 
 of about a gallon a minute. The brine is twice 
 the strength of sea- water, and it is probable that 
 
INTERVIEW WITH RIHORIHO TRADE WITH THE ISLANDERS. 
 
 121 
 
 the large reservoir itself is supplied from this 
 and similar sources ; but whether from a sub- 
 terranean communication with the sea (from 
 which it is a mile distant, with a considerable 
 mount between) we had no means of ascertain- 
 ing. There is, however, much salt mingled 
 with the neighbouring soil, as may be seen 
 where the strata break out in various places. 
 
 June 2. A vessel arrived from America in a 
 hundred and forty-five days, bringing letters for 
 the Missionaries. Knowing that the king 
 would be anxious to learn what intelligence had 
 been brought, we accompanied Mr. Bingham 
 on a visit to his majesty. In this interview 
 Rihoriho appeared to more advantage than 
 usual, being exceedingly affable, and discover- 
 ing considerable shrewdness in some of his re- 
 marks. He appeared particularly favourable to 
 the plan of Mr. Ellis being stationed here, and 
 promised his protection and encouragement to 
 the Missionaries, if they would benefit his sub- 
 jects, as the people of the South Pacific Islands 
 had been benefited by receiving the gospel. To 
 several chiefs who were present the king signi- 
 fied his pleasure that Mr. Ellis should take up 
 his abode here. It was observed that the other 
 islands would want Missionaries. The king 
 said, " They may wait a while ; I must first be 
 taught and therefore where I am the Mission- 
 aries must be ; afterwards, when we see the 
 effect upon myself, my people may have teachers 
 too." He then turned the discourse upon 
 strangers visiting these islands, and described 
 with much humour and no mean knowledge of 
 human nature, the principal foreigners whom 
 he had known, telling both the good and the 
 evil which they had done among the natives. 
 In recounting the mischievous practices which 
 they had introduced, he mentioned drunken- 
 ness, his own unhappily over-mastering sin, 
 and the licentiousness in which Europeans and 
 Americans indulge when they come hither for 
 relaxation after the labours and sufferings of 
 long voyages. 
 
 June 5. Dining to-day with Captain Davis, 
 two of the company, Messrs. Stevens and 
 Conant, mentioned that, when they were upon 
 the western coast of North America (we do not 
 recollect the latitudes), in the year 1819, there 
 occurred so extraordinary a mortality among 
 the fishes, near the shore, that in some places it 
 was difficult to row a boat among the dead and 
 
 Putrefying bodies that were drifted thither, 
 'his destructive plague was traced by its 
 ravages for upwards of two hundred miles. 
 The cause was utterly unknown, and not even 
 imaginable ; no volcanic eruption had poisoned 
 the waters, no symptoms of earthquake had 
 been perceived throughout the adjacent land, 
 nor had the state of the atmosphere been other- 
 wise disturbed than by a tremendous storm of 
 thunder and lightning, which, in that region, 
 was rather unusual. The devastation of sub- 
 marine life, of course, occasioned great distress, 
 from scarcity of their wonted food, among the 
 poor and scattered population along the shore. 
 June 0. Before the breaking of the tabu, the 
 women here, as elsewhere throughout the Pa- 
 
 cific, were kept in the most degrading subjec- 
 tion. Certain kinds of fish, hogs, cocoa-nuts, 
 &c., were forbidden food to them. If they 
 passed a marae, they were required to turn 
 their faces another way ; and it Avas death for 
 a female to be caught looking at an idol's tem- 
 ple. One day the late king, Tamehameha, 
 meeting a woman carrying something on her 
 back, as she stepped out of the path, called to 
 her, and inquired what she had got there so 
 snugly covered up. " My dog," said the woman. 
 " Your dog !" exclaimed the king ; " ay, ay, 
 and here is its snout!" laying hold upon the 
 end of a banana, which happened to be bare, 
 and belonged to a large bunch of the same fruit 
 that was concealed. His attendants demanded 
 permission to kill the poor creature on the spot, 
 for attempting to deceive their sovereign. " No, 
 no ; you shall not hurt her ; she is akamai 
 (very clever) !" 
 
 June 8. The blind man, formerly mentioned, 
 gives increasing evidence of his conversion by 
 consistency of conduct. He lives in a house 
 belonging to the principal queen, and, when- 
 ever her majesty takes a meal there, she requests 
 him to ask the blessing of his God upon her 
 food. He himself has discontinued eating dog's 
 flesh, live vermin, and other loathsome garbage, 
 of which the natives are ravenously fond. A 
 man, who lives under the same roof with him, 
 feeling this abstinence as a tacit reproach of his 
 own filthy feeding, lately became indignant, and 
 complained to the king that his blind neighbour, 
 under the influence of his strange religion, re- 
 fused to taste the national dainties above alluded 
 to, and begged that he might be punished, to 
 compel him to do as other people did. " The 
 man is right," replied Rihoriho, 4< I will not 
 suffer him to be harmed ; I intend, myself, soon 
 to learn the new palapala, and to leave oft' these 
 bad ways ; and then you must all do the same." 
 
 June 10. The barter- trade, carried on here 
 between natives and foreigners, must be very 
 profitable to the latter. Several vessels, built in 
 America, have been thus bought and sold at 
 enormous prices. About a year ago, a brig, of 
 a hundred and seventy tons burthen, which had 
 been built for a pleasure yacht, and afterwards 
 made a voyage to the Mediterranean, was dis- 
 posed of to the king for sandal-wood, of the 
 value of ninety thousand dollars upwards of 
 twenty thousand pounds sterling. Since we 
 have been here she was brought into port, to 
 repair, when her principal timbers were found 
 to be rotten. She can last but a short time 
 longer. She is indeed built after a beautiful 
 model, and has a spacious cabin, elegantly 
 ornamented, which might well attract the eye of 
 an unskilled native ; but her utmost, cost in 
 England, we believe, would not have been more 
 than one-tenth of what Rihoriho gave for her. 
 
 June 11. Yesterday the king drove away 
 some drunken company from his own house, 
 and would not suffer them to remain near his 
 person. Again, to-day, on his walk, he turned 
 his l;ic.o in a contrary direction where he per- 
 ceived some fellows, riotous with liquor, before 
 him. These are good signs and quite new with 
 
122 
 
 DEPRAVITY OF NATIVE CHILDREN PILFERING. 
 
 one who is so apt to be ensnared by the same 
 fault. When our friends called upon him this 
 day, he and his favourite queen were hard at 
 work on their spelling-book ; and afterwards 
 they endeavoured to learn by heart a little 
 hymn, composed by Mr. Ellis in the native 
 lim^ua^e, the first in which the praises of God 
 have been so arranged, since it was spoken by 
 human lips. 
 
 June 14. We have had much serious conver- 
 sation with Mr. Chamberlain and the other 
 Missionaries, respecting the family of the 
 former. As a Christian parent, he is naturally 
 very anxious to preserve the minds of his off- 
 spring from the moral contamination to which 
 they are liable from their inevitable exposure to 
 the society (occasionally at least) of native chil- 
 dren of their own age, whose language they 
 understand, and whose filthy talk they cannot 
 but hear at times. The abominable conversa- 
 tion (if such it maybe called) of infants as soon 
 as they begin to lisp out words, is such a jargon 
 of grossness and obscenity as could not be ima- 
 gined by persons brought up even in those 
 manufacturing towns of our country where 
 manners are the most depraved. And, so far 
 from reproving the little reprobates, their 
 fathers and mothers, both by voice and exam- 
 ple, teach them what they are most apt to learn, 
 the expression and indulgence, at the earliest 
 possible period, of every brutal passion. The 
 subject is one of great delicacy and perplexity 
 to faithful Missionaries in all stations among 
 uncivilized heathens, but particularly in these 
 islands, where European and American inter- 
 course, instead of civilizing and humanizing a 
 barbarous population, has hitherto tended to 
 corrupt their habits and practices more and 
 more, in proportion as its influence has been 
 increased, by the establishment of regular com- 
 merce for sandal-wood, as well as from the 
 multiplied visits visitations they may he 
 called, in the afflictive sense of the term of 
 whale-ships. 
 
 June 15. On our walk, we found a man bent- 
 ing a woman unmercifully. She was sitting 
 upon another man's knee, who not only held 
 her to receive the chastisement, but himself 
 slKiinet'ully maltreated her, by tearing otF her 
 clothes, and exposing her to the scorn of passers 
 by. She cried bitterly and spat in his face. On 
 asking the reason of tin's outrage, we were in- 
 formed that the woman was wife to him who 
 was thrashing her, and sister to him who de- 
 tained her upon his knee. We were further 
 told, that her husband having stolen something, 
 she hud betnned the theft. We were not able 
 to pacify the ruffians, and were obliged to leave 
 the sufferer in their clutches. 
 
 Though the Sandwich Islanders frequently 
 commit depredations on strangers, they rarely 
 steal from each other. Their chattels within 
 doors are seldom secured by locks or bolts, and 
 their plantations of course, must be completely 
 exposed. The terror of retaliation, however, 
 which every injured man may execute with im- 
 punity upon his offending neighbour, serves as 
 a sufficient general protection of property. The 
 
 individual robbed may kill the thief if he can ; 
 or he may collect a party of friends and spoil 
 the spoiler of everything he has. On the other 
 hand, it is but justice to state, that though they 
 eagerly pilfer from foreigners, when temptation 
 and opportunity favour the exercise of that 
 kind of dexterity, we are assured that they may 
 generally be intrusted with the care of anything 
 valuable without much fear of dishonesty on 
 their part. An American captain, on his re- 
 turn home, left in the hands of his native ser- 
 vant here, a few dollars, which both had forgot- 
 ten. Five years afterwards, revisiting these 
 islands, he had scarcely landed when the young 
 man came running towards him, to deliver up 
 the dollars, which he had preserved ever since 
 his former employer's departure. On the whole, 
 we have conceived a favourable opinion of 
 these poor heathen. There is a peculiar frank- 
 ness about them, which cannot but make a 
 favourable impression upon strangers. They 
 want nothing but what the religion of Christ 
 would give them, or would bring in its train, 
 to make them a fine race of people. 
 
 June 18. We have just heard of one of those 
 melancholy accidents which frequently occur on 
 these coasts. A young man, who had been 
 banished by the king, for some family offence, 
 to Maui, was going from that island to Kanai, 
 when his canoe was upset. The sharks, which 
 are always on the watch after such vessels, in- 
 stantly seized and devoured two of his com- 
 panions. He himself escaped with great ditH- 
 culty ; as also did a young woman, in a very 
 singular manner. When thrown into the water, 
 she forthwith began to swim, with all her 
 strength and speed, towards the shore. This 
 she reached in safety, though accompanied all 
 the way by two sharks, one on each side of her, 
 as though the three were engaged in a sea-race, 
 which she happily won in this respect that 
 neither of the monsters attempted to devour her. 
 
 June 20. On the last Sabbath, when \v 
 to inform the king that divine .-ei vice was about 
 to be held, at which we should be glad to see 
 him present, his mnjesty returned for answer, 
 that he was pvpuka, (hat is, bad; being en- 
 i:au'ed in drinking rum, which he knew to be 
 MTV wroiiL'. To-day we learn that he has 
 emerged from his long fit of drunkenness, is 
 clothed, and in his right mind. 
 
 July 4. The American captains and residents 
 have been commemorating the establishment of 
 their national independence, forty-six years ago. 
 An oration, in honour of the revolution of their 
 country at that time, and of its present institu- 
 tions, was delivered, at the Missionary chapel, 
 by Mr. Jones, the consul ; after which Mr. Bing- 
 ham recited some stanzas, composed by Mr. Ben- 
 net for this anniversary, at the request of our 
 friends from the United States.* A prayer had 
 
 * The following is a copy of these stanzas, with some 
 slight corrections, from the 'hastily-composed original. 
 
 COLUMBIA still prospers! our spirits rejoice, 
 
 Tis the Land of our fathers, the Land of our choice; 
 
 Fair LIBK.UTY tin-re, in her beauty is soon. 
 
 The fruit is all wholesome, her tree ever -green. 
 
 For 
 
ROYAL REPAST GOOD NEWS FROM NUKAHIVA. 
 
 123 
 
 been offered up, and a psalm sung, at the com- 
 mencement of this patriotic assembly, and the 
 apostolic benediction was pronounced at the 
 conclusion. At the public dinner given on this 
 occasion, there appeared a singular group of 
 guests Americans, English, Sandwich Island- 
 ers, Africans, and Spaniards from the colonies. 
 We were invited and treated with great respect, 
 but retired soon after the cloth was drawn. 
 Rihoriho, who was present, also went away 
 early, being very unwell from the effects of 
 another round of intoxication, which had lasted 
 several days. In his fits, either of violent 
 passion or drunkenness (but at no other time), 
 he spouts the few English phrases which he can 
 master, and especially utters oaths and impreca- 
 tions of the more horrible kind, with a fluency 
 and energy which prove that he has been tho- 
 roughly taught what it had been better he had 
 never learned at all. 
 
 July 5. Calling at the king's house, we found 
 the principal queen and five of her chief women 
 at dinner. The latter were sitting in a circle, 
 cross-legged, but her majesty lay upon her mat 
 at full length, resting her cheek on a pillow, 
 The provisions consisted of a baked dog in one 
 dish, the raw entrails of a large fish in another, 
 a piece of raw fish in a third, some green sea- 
 weed in a fourth, and two bowls of poi. Nei- 
 ther knife, fork, nor spoon, was used at this 
 disgusting feast. Each person took what she 
 wanted from any dish with her fingers, which 
 she plied with great but indescribable dexterity 
 in conveying the victuals to her mouth. Five 
 or six boys, their pages, sat in the circle, and 
 partook with their mistresses of the dainties be- 
 
 For conscience, our ancestors suller'd of old, 
 And when by its dictates they wonhipp'cl, were told. 
 That unless they conform'd, as the priests should direct, 
 The laws of old England should cease to protect. 
 
 Then multitudes fled from the land of their birth, 
 Though to them, the most dear of all places on earth ; 
 AMERICA'S bosom, those Exiles received. 
 She promised them Freedom, nor were they deceived. 
 
 NEW-ENGLAND was planted ; she gave her increase ; 
 " Pilgrim-Fathers" rejoiced in a region of peace ; 
 Though trials still met them, both many and great, 
 Sweet Freedom out-balanced the rigours of fate I 
 
 'Tis long since AMERICA cast off that yoke, 
 Which Hritnin, by pressing too closely, had broke. 
 In Science and Arts, now in Commerce and Trade, 
 To compete with the best, she is never afraid. 
 
 Her Government, formed upon Liberty's plan. 
 The rules of the Gospel, the interests of man, 
 Has sprung from that germ " a plant of renown," 
 And o'ershadows the earth, so majestic 'tis grown. 
 
 Yot must it be told, that the sons of the brave, 
 The founders of freedom, persist to enslave 
 The "swart sons i/f Afric. f" Alas ! it is so ! 
 And shall it continue ? It shall not, O, no ! 
 
 Arise, O, COLUMBIA I shake off the disgrace ; 
 In Liberty's Hume, let not bondage have place! 
 Tell the cruel, the heartless, the holders of slaves. 
 Desecration they cast on their forefathers' graves. 
 
 Be the sons of " America's Pilgrims" then true 
 To themselves, nor occasion their country to me : 
 For th<; stigma of slavery branded upon her, 
 Endangers her welfare, and sullies her honour. 
 Wise, upright and jus;t, let her race ever be, 
 Humane as courageous, benignant as five ; 
 N\ iii'iuver they reot, or wherever they roam, 
 lie they blessings abroad, and thrice blessed at home. 
 
 fore them. A calabash of water stood in the midst, 
 in which, when they had dined, they all washed 
 their hands. Tobacco was then introduced, 
 and the pipe went round from mouth to mouth 
 as usual. When the queen had taken a few 
 whiffs, she began to dress her long, dark hair 
 with fuller's earth, which she moistened in 
 water, and rubbed over her head, wreathing 
 and pressing the locks into such forms (fantas- 
 tic enough) as seemed most becoming to her- 
 self. She used a small looking-glass to assist 
 her in this operation, which she went through 
 without the slightest embarrassment from our 
 presence. The natives, indeed, seem not to 
 have the sense of shame. 
 
 July 7. From a native of this island, who has 
 just returned from Nukahiva, one of the Mar- 
 quesas, where he has resided twelve months, 
 we learn that the two antagonist parties there 
 are now dwelling in peace. A native of Tahiti, 
 who has lived among them some time, has told 
 the Marquesans how his countrymen have 
 transported, burned, or destroyed their dumb 
 idols, and now worship the living God alone, 
 in consequence of the Missionaries from Eng- 
 land having taught them the way of truth. On 
 this representation, our informant says, the inha- 
 bitants of Nukahiva have abandoned cannibal- 
 ism, and are now praying to our God to send 
 them instructors in his own will. Here, then, 
 we hope the fallow ground is in the course of 
 being broken up, previous to the appointed 
 sowers going forth, in the Lord's time, to sow 
 the seed, which is the word of eternal life. 
 
 July 12. Thomas Hopoo a young man, a 
 native, who resided many years in North Ame- 
 rica, where he became a convert to Christianity, 
 and gave evidence that his faith was genuine 
 has addressed a letter to Mr. Bingham, request- 
 ing permission to preach the gospel to his coun- 
 trymen. He says his heart burns within him 
 to engage in this work, for the love of Christ 
 and the souls of men ; adding, in the words of 
 the apostle of the Gentiles, " Woe be unto me 
 if I preach not the gospel!" We strongly ad- 
 vised our Missionary friends to admit him on 
 trial, and send him forth into the villages round 
 about, to instruct the people. He appears to 
 have sound piety, correct views of divine truth, 
 and ardent zeal for the salvation of sinners ; at 
 the same time maintaining a consistent walk 
 and conversation. 
 
 July 20. We witnessed a scene of idle lux- 
 ury, worthy of a barbarian epicure. In the 
 king's house a woman was feeding a man with 
 poi, of tho consistence of oatmeal porridge, or 
 pudding-batter. The fellow was lying upon 
 the ground ; but on her approach he raised 
 himself, leaned on his elbow, and held up his 
 face, with his jaws wide open. The woman, 
 then, taking a large handful of poi out of the 
 bowl, held it about a foot above his head, and 
 dropped the mess as from a ladle into his mouth, 
 through which it ran down his throat, without 
 chewing. 
 
 July 23. Having waited upon the king, so 
 early as six o'clock this morning, we found him 
 with a number of his chiefs, drinking spirits. 
 
124 WARRIOR OF NUKAHIVA FLIES LOATHSOME TO THE NATIVES. 
 
 All were far gone towards intoxication. But, 
 though such a slave to the pestilent liquor 
 himself, he, as already stated, discountenances 
 drunkenness in his meaner subjects. On Sun- 
 day last he ordered a man to be laid in irons, 
 
 and imprisoned in the fort, for being overtaken 
 by his own besetting sin ; and there the poor 
 fellow remains at this very time, when his sove- 
 reign is revelling in the same excess. 
 
 ./:-6s&*5* 
 
 Warrior of Nukaluva. 
 
 July 24. Two of the queens dined with us 
 to-day. They brought their own provisions 
 two raw fishes, and a bowl of poi. Of the lat- 
 ter they sometimes drank, but occasionally em- 
 ployed their fingers to carry the slimy beverage 
 to their mouths. One of the fishes was dressed 
 by their desire ; the other they ate raw, just as 
 it came out of the water, scales, tins, and in- 
 testines unremoved. This they tore to pieces 
 with their hands and their teeth, as best served 
 their purpose ; first one and then the other 
 
 helping herself to such portion as she liked best, 
 each taking special care that none of the blood 
 which oozed from the mangled fragments should 
 be lost. But, though it excited very inconve- 
 nient qualms of stomach in us to see their filthy 
 feeding, when a common fly was found drowned 
 in one of their messes they seemed at once to 
 grow sick, and turned away their faces with no 
 equivocal expression of utter loathing. Flies, 
 indeed, may be said to be an abomination with 
 these savages, probably from some supersti- 
 
TANNING'S ISLAND JUVENILE TEACHERS. 
 
 125 
 
 tious prejudice, for vermin far more disgusting 
 are greedily picked by them from their own 
 bodies nay, from the very dogs and de- 
 voured. 
 
 July 29. The Mermaid cutter, by which we 
 came hither four months ago, arrived in the 
 harbour. Captain Kent accounted for his long 
 absence by stating, that instead of reaching 
 Tanning's Island in seven days, as he had ex- 
 pected, the voyage occupied eight and twenty. 
 This noted spot is a coral reef, very little ele- 
 vated above the surface of the sea ; having a 
 large lagoon, in the middle of a ring of rock 
 covered with no other soil than sand from the 
 attrition of the scattered blocks by the washing 
 of the waves, and the decomposition of the 
 coast-foliage and perished fruit of some cocoa- 
 nut trees, and a few shrubs, which grow upon 
 its narrow margin. Here are about fifty inha- 
 bitants, foreigners and Sandwich Islanders, 
 whose business is to collect the buhe (beche de 
 merj, a kind of slug or sea-worm, of a dark 
 brown colour, which is found in water of fifteen 
 or sixteen feet in depth, and obtained by diving. 
 This delicacy is preserved with lime and salt, 
 and, after being dried in the sun, is packed in 
 large quantities, and carried to the Chinese 
 market, where it fetches no small price. 
 
 This evening a messenger came from Keau- 
 moku, the governor of Maui, to request two of 
 the Missionaries to visit him. He had been 
 greatly alarmed by a dream, in which he saw 
 the whole island on fire, and all the water in 
 the surrounding sea could not quench the flames. 
 He had sought for safety, but in vain ; he could 
 find no shelter. Awaking in horror, therefore, 
 he grasped at the hope set before him in the 
 gospel. This, Mr. Ellis and Mr. Bingham faith- 
 fully unfolded to the dreamer, and to the per- 
 sons assembled round him. These consisted of 
 a goodly number of chiefs, many of whom were 
 lying on the floor learning to spell or read, and 
 some to write. Thomas Hopoo, the native 
 convert, offered a fervent prayer for the salva- 
 tion of his countrymen, and Mr. Ellis delivered 
 a suitable discourse on the name of Jesus. 
 
 July 31. This morning the afore-mentioned 
 chief had an interview with Kaahumanu, queen 
 of Tauai, when he proposed to her to unite 
 with him in commanding all their people to at- 
 tend to the palapala, that is, to their learning. 
 She gave him an evasive answer, saying that by 
 and by she would. He was not, however, 
 thus to be put off, and told her plainly that 
 she might do as she pleased, but, for his part, 
 he should send all his men to be taught to read 
 and write, and understand the great word. He 
 proposes to build a large school-room immedi- 
 ately. The evening was spent in prayer and 
 Christian discourse at his house, and the Mis- 
 sionaries were requested to repair thither again 
 by day-break to-morrow morning, to conduct 
 family worship, which he says he is determined 
 shall henceforth be daily performed under his 
 roof. Upwards of sixty natives of rank were 
 present, and all behaved with an affecting de- 
 corum which we have rarely seen at the public 
 services. 
 
 Aug. 3. Keaumoku's example already pro- 
 duces some happy effect. The king has just 
 been with us. After expressing high displea- 
 sure against those who are ever on the watch to 
 ensare him into drunkenness, folly, and violence, 
 for their own mercenary ends, he declared that 
 he and his chiefs would begin in earnest to 
 learn to read next Monday, and that, when 
 they had made some progress, all his subjects 
 should be instructed. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 The King and Chiefs attend Divine Service. Royal Fa- 
 mily learning to read Anecdote Juvenile Teachers 
 First Christian Marriage in the Sandwich Islands- 
 Injunction against drinking ardent Spirits Kam- 
 schutka Sledge Watch -seal presented to Rihoriho 
 Deputation leave Oahu Letter from Rihoriho to George 
 IV. Extracts from Anna's Journal in Hawaii. 
 
 AUG. 4. Being Lord's day, the king and 
 many of his principal people attended divine 
 service. They were more becomingly dressed, 
 and behaved with more decency than on any- 
 former occasion. Mr. Ellis's text was peculi- 
 arly appropriate at the present crisis; when 
 symptoms of a favourable change are daily mul- 
 tiplying : " How long halt ye between two 
 opinions 1 If the Lord be God, follow him ; 
 but v if Baal, then follow him." 1 Kings, xviii. 
 21. Again, in the afternoon, with equal felicity 
 of application, our friend discoursed on those 
 words of our blessed Saviour ; " Yerily, verily, 
 I say unto you, the hour is coming, and now is, 
 when the dead shall hear the voice of the Son 
 of God; and they that hear shall live." 1 John 
 v. 25. We cordially reply, "Amen; even so, 
 come, Lord Jesus ! " 
 
 Aug. 5. This being " Monday," the king was 
 punctual to his promise. He and his family 
 began to learn their alphabet like little children. 
 Mr. Ellis and Mr. Bingham were engaged with 
 them all the forenoon. Mr. Thurston and we 
 (the Deputation) were at Keaumoku's. We 
 attended again in the evening, and found all 
 our scholars, old and young, diligently conning 
 their lessons. This may be recorded as a great 
 day for the Sandwich Islands. What was begun 
 upon it may nay, it must influence to an 
 incalculable degree, the future state of all gene- 
 rations who shall dwell here, even to the end 
 of time. We may quote a specimen of native 
 teaching : Keaumoku, having made sufficient 
 progress himself, was telling some of his people 
 how to join a consonant with a vowel so as to 
 produce a syllable; which he illustrated thus: 
 "The consonnnt is Tane (the husband), and 
 the vowel Vahine (the wife). Bring them to- 
 gether they become one, and they are some- 
 thing ; alone, they are nothing." 
 
 Aug. 9. The king continues not only very 
 diligent in learning himself, but, so far as he 
 knows, in teaching others. He is, however, 
 very careful to have somebody near him, to cor- 
 rect him when he goes wrong in leading the 
 new way, lest his followers should err after him. 
 The eagerness for instruction is so great that all 
 the little boys in the school are daily, during 
 their play-hours, in requisition as masters. Three 
 
126 
 
 FIRST CHRISTIAN MARRIAGE IN OAHU. 
 
 chiefs, men of magnificent stature and lofty bear- 
 ing, came early this morning to obtain a kumn, or 
 teacher. They could engage none but a child, .six 
 years of age, lisping over its spell ing-book. Find- 
 ing, however, that he could tell his letters, and 
 repeat his ba, be, bi, bo, bu, one of them caught 
 him up by the arm, mounted the little fellow 
 upon his own broad shoulder, and carried him 
 off in triumph, exclaiming, " This shall be my 
 kumu !" The lads, themselves, take great de- 
 light in reciting their simple lessons to the older 
 folks, and helping their fathers and mothers to 
 say their A, B, C. It is beautiful to behold 
 one of these little ones standing up amidst a 
 ring of grown people, with the ejvs of all icait- 
 imj upon him, earnestly hearkening to his words, 
 and repeating them from his lips, that they may 
 impress both the sounds and the import on their 
 memory. Nor is the implicit confidence with 
 which they receive his instructions, delivered 
 with the ingenuous gracefulness of boyhood in 
 its prime, the least interesting circumstance 
 connected with this " new thing in the earth." 
 Did our Saviour set a child in the midst of his 
 disciples, to teach them how they must receive 
 the kingdom of heaven, and shall He not, out 
 of the mouths of babes and sucklings, here, 
 both ordain strength and perfect praise! 
 
 Aug. 11. The first Christian marriage that 
 ever took place in these heathen isles was cele- 
 brated this morning. Thomas Hopoo and Delia, 
 both inmates with the Missionary family, joined 
 hands, and avouched themselves husband and 
 wife before a large congregation. Mr. Bing- 
 ham performed the ceremony, Mr. Ellis pr.t\rd, 
 and we had tin- satisfaction to sign the register 
 as witnesses of the contract. Mr. Ellis after- 
 wards preached from Rev. xxii. 17 : " Let him 
 that is athirst come. And whosoever will, let 
 him take of the water of life freely." At the 
 close of the discourse a man said, " I shall take 
 this and tie it up in my cloth;" alluding to 
 the practice of binding up dollars or any thing 
 particularly valuable in one end of their maro, 
 the girdle about their waist, which is indeed 
 the only clothing of most persons here. 
 
 Aug. 13. This day the King and Queen of 
 Tauai, the Governor of Maui, and their retinue 
 of chiefs and servants, consisting of nearly 
 twelve hundred persons, sailed for the Leeward 
 Islands on board of two brigs and two schoon- 
 ers, the decks of which were so crowded that 
 the people could scarcely find room even to 
 stand. The object of their majesties on this 
 expedition was to receive homage and presents 
 from their subjects, and to collect sandal-wood. 
 They took several persons with them as teach- 
 ers, and among others our companions from 
 Huahine, Auna and his wife, of whom they 
 promised to take the kindest care. 
 
 Aug. 15. On board the Pedler, Captain 
 Meek, we saw a curious sledge from Kam- 
 schatka, made to be drawn upon the snow and 
 ice-tracts by four or six dogs. The animals are 
 harnessed by their necks with leather straps, 
 and instead of being guided with reins, are pre- 
 ceded by another dog that is loose to lead the 
 way ; his own course being directed to the 
 
 right or the left by the sound of a rattle which 
 the driver uses as occasion requires. The sledge 
 itself is of ingenious construction, hollow like 
 a canoe, three feet and a half in length, twelve 
 inches across, and fourteen high in the lower 
 part, but thrice as much at each end. The 
 rider sits with his back inclined against the 
 after part, his legs thrown over the sides, but 
 resting on a ledge beneath, while lie holds by a 
 thong extending from side to side of the front 
 part. The dogs will travel at the rate of eight or 
 nine miles an hour, drawing nearly ten hundred 
 weight, including the driver and his luggage. 
 
 Aug. 10. The king having expressed great 
 admiration of a watch-seal belonging to Mr. 
 Bennet, the latter presented him with it as a 
 token of friendly remembrance. Rihoriho 
 gladly accepted it, and promised to adopt the 
 arms and motto (De bon vouloir servir le Roy) 
 engraven upon it as his own. 
 
 Aug. 22. Ever since the arrival of the Mer- 
 maid, we have been packing and preparing for 
 our return by her, according to agreement, to 
 the Society Islands. This morning we sailed 
 out of the harbour with a fair wind, amidst the 
 cheers and salutes of all the vessels, and in sight 
 of multitudes of natives whom we left standing 
 on the shore. We had previously taken a most 
 affectionate leave of the American Missionaries 
 and bade farewell to the king, his family, and 
 those chiefs with whom we had formed an ac- 
 quaintance during our residence of five months 
 here, as " the prisoners of the Lord," having 
 been providentially detained for purposes which 
 future time will gradually reveal, but eternity 
 alone can estimate. 
 
 Soon after we had gone on board, we were 
 surprised by the appearance of Kamam ilu, the 
 favourite queen of Rihoriho, who had been ab- 
 sent at our parting with him, paddling towards 
 our vessel in a canoe, with only one attendant. 
 When she had come within a bowshot, she 
 sprang out of the canoe, dived into the sea, and 
 emerged just under our ship's side, up which 
 she readily climbed, and was presently on deck, 
 expressing at once her joy and her sorrow 
 her joy on overtaking us before we had sailed, 
 and her sorrow at our departure. After taking 
 leave of us, her majesty jumped into the sea 
 again, swam to her little boat, into which she 
 fiung herself with inimitable dexterity (the most 
 skilful of our seamen would have overset a ca- 
 noe with attempting thus to board it), seized 
 a paddle, and quickly reached the shore. 
 
 The king had behaved in the most liberal 
 manner to Captain Kent, both on the former 
 and the latter occasion while he was in this har- 
 bour ; having daily sent provisions for the sup- 
 ply of his whole crew. Before the ship sailed 
 at this time, he furnished a stock of hogs and 
 goats, likely to serve for the whole voyage, and 
 as many vegetables as could be used while they 
 were eatable. Captain Kent was also charged 
 with a letter to our sovereign, George IV., 
 worded in English as follows : 
 
 " palm, Sandwich Islands, Aug. 21, 1822. 
 " May it please your Majesty, 
 
 " In answer to your Majesty's letter from 
 
RIHORIHO'S LETTER TO GEORGE IV. AUNA'S JOURNAL. 
 
 127 
 
 Governor Macquarrie, I beg to return your 
 Majesty my most grateful thanks for your hand- 
 some present of the schooner, Prince Regent, 
 which I have received at the hands of Mr. J. R. 
 Kent. 
 
 " I avail myself of this opportunity, of ac- 
 quainting your Majesty of the death of my fa- 
 ther, Tamehameha, who departed this life the 
 8th of May, 1819, much lamented by his sub- 
 jects ; and having appointed me his successor, 
 I have enjoyed a happy reign ever since that 
 period ; and I assure your Majesty it is my 
 sincere wish to be thought as worthy your at- 
 tention as my father had the happiness to be, 
 during the visit of Captain Vancouver. The 
 whole of these islands having been conquered 
 by my father, I have succeeded to the govern- 
 ment of them, and beg leave to place them all 
 under the protection of your most excellent 
 Majesty ; wishing to observe peace with all na- 
 tions, and to be thought worthy the confidence 
 I place in your Majesty's wisdom and judg- 
 ment. 
 
 " The former idolatrous system has been 
 abolished in these islands, as we wisli the Pro- 
 testant religion of your Majesty's dominions to 
 be practised here. I hope your Majesty may 
 deem it lit to answer this as soon as convenient ; 
 and your Majesty's counsel and advice will be 
 most thankfully received by your Majesty's 
 most obedient and devoted servant, 
 
 TAMEHAMEHA II. 
 " King of the Sandwich Islands." 
 " To George IV., King of England." 
 
 By whomsoever this letter may have been 
 penned, under direction of Rihoriho (who here 
 signs himself, after his father's name, Tameha- 
 meha II.), we can vouch for it containing the 
 same sentiments as he had repeatedly expressed 
 through interpreters to Mr. Ellis and ourselves. 
 We left these shores where a new era has assur- 
 edly commenced, with feelings very much ex- 
 alted above those which had sunk our hearts on 
 our first arrival, when we beheld their inhabi- 
 tants wholly given up to the power of darkness, 
 though the idols had been removed, and faith- 
 ful men were preparing to turn them to light. 
 
 The following extracts from the journal of 
 Auna,* our Tahitian companion on a voyage to 
 Hawaii (during our residence at Oahu), with 
 Taumuarii and Kaahumanu, king and queen of 
 ! Tauai, are so characteristic of the man himself 
 the simple-hearted Christian convert from 
 the foulest idolatry and also of the state of 
 heathen society in these islands, that they can- 
 not fail to interest every right-minded reader. 
 Anna's Journal. 
 
 " May 12. (Lord's day.) About eleven o'- 
 clock in the forenoon' we went on shore, and 
 were much pleased with the appearance of this 
 place (Rahina, in the island of Maui). We 
 found a great many chiefs and people collected 
 together to welcome us from the ship. I asked 
 Teaumotu, ' Whose is this house 1' To which 
 he answered, ' It is mine.' I said, ' Let us go 
 in and worship.' He answered, ' Yes, let us 
 go and pray there.' He and his wife Kekuaiaia 
 * Translated for the Deputation by Mr. Ellis. 
 
 accompanied us, and so did Ranui Opiia, and 
 several more, till the house was filled. I read 
 a portion of the Tahitian Gospel by Matthew, 
 and then prayed to Jehovah to bless them with 
 his salvation. After the meeting, we sat down 
 under the shade of the large tou-trees. Many 
 gathered round us, and we taught them letters 
 from the Hawaiian spelling-book. 
 
 * * * * * 
 
 " May 15. We were not joined this morning 
 by any of the people in family worship, though 
 several of them sat at the door and looked on. 
 The chiefs and people of Marokai brought a 
 present of food and cloth to-day to the King 
 and Queen of Tauai, namely, fifty-four bundles 
 of native cloth, forty-two live dogs, and twenty 
 great calabashes of poi paste made from taro- 
 root. 
 
 * * * * * 
 
 " May 17. The people were very busy divid- 
 ing the food and cloth, another great present 
 having been received yesterday, namely, thirty- 
 four baked dogs, thirty-eight calabashes of poi, 
 and a quantity of cloth. I wrote several letters 
 to friends in the Society Islands, to be taken to 
 them by Mr. Ellis when he returns. In the 
 afternoon we went on board to sail for Hawaii. 
 
 * * * * * 
 
 " May 26. Hawaii. (Lord's day). The cap- 
 tain of our ship, having lost his watch, applied 
 to Kaahumanu, and it was found out to have 
 been stolen by some of her people. So she or- 
 dered one to be put in irons on suspicion that 
 he was the thief, and sent all the rest to seek for 
 it. We had public worship, but it was amidst 
 very much confusion. The man in chains made 
 a great noise, and those that were seeking the 
 watch made almost as much. At noon it was 
 brought back, having been sold by the man 
 who stole it to some persons living here. The 
 man in confinement was released, and the watch 
 was restored to the captain. 
 
 f * * * # 
 
 " May 28. About noon we anchored off the 
 large district of Hiro. We went on shore to- 
 wards evening at ISutwokemanu, by the bank 
 of a broad and swift stream of water. The 
 place was well shaded with trees, and there was 
 a vast deal of taro under cultivation. The 
 houses were thickly scattered, and there were a 
 great many people. Some had been out fish- 
 ing, and they brought a present of anae (mul- 
 lets) for Kaahumanu. We went into a small 
 house belonging to Rihoriho, and held our fa- 
 mily worship. A few of the natives joined us. 
 There was much singing and dancing to the 
 beating of the huru till midnight. 
 
 " May 30. We removed to Puhonua and Vai- 
 rutu. The people of the land were glad to see 
 us. One of them brought us some plantain- 
 leaves, for which he had to swim across the 
 river. He afterwards helped us to put up our 
 temporary habitation. I talked to the neigh- 
 bours as opportunity offered, about the salva- 
 tion of their souls. Many of them said, ' What 
 you tell us is very good ; and when our king 
 turns to the religion of Jesus Christ, we shall 
 all be glad to follow him.' 
 
128 
 
 AUNA'S JOURNAL DISTRESSING WEATHER AT SEA. 
 
 " June I. The chiefs were employed in pre- 
 paring a large house for their visitors. I was 
 walking about among them most of the day, 
 telling them what good things God had done 
 for our islands. With this they seemed to be 
 delighted. 
 
 u< June 2. (Lord's day.) We had public wor- 
 ship in Opiia's house, who, with her husband 
 and family, attended. But so great was the 
 disturbance with the companies of dancers, the 
 singing, and the beating upon the huru, that we 
 could only have one service. 
 
 " June 3. The people of the land brought 
 many presents to Taumuraii and Kaahumanu. 
 There were twelve baked dogs, sixty live ones, 
 five hundred and ninety pieces of cloth, thirty- 
 five calabashes of poi, and two large canoes. 
 
 " June 4. Kaahumanu having commanded 
 some of her people to go for the idol of Tame- 
 hameha, namely, Teraipahoa, it was brought 
 to-day with nine smaller- idols, and they were 
 all publicly burnt. My heart rejoiced in be- 
 holding them in the midst of the flames. 
 * * * * * 
 
 " June 19. At Kairua, the residence of 
 Kaakini, nephew to Kaahumanu, the chiefs 
 brought us two hundred and twenty-nine fishes, 
 twenty dogs, three calabashes of poi, and forty 
 pieces of cloth. There was afterwards a grand 
 huru. Thirty-three men played on the sticks, 
 there were twenty-five dancers, and five great 
 drums were beaten all the while. 
 
 " June 20. To-day the chiefs brought four 
 hundred baked dogs, and of cloth, mats, and 
 other articles, four thousand. The feasting 
 continued with terrible confusion all day long. 
 Forty-one men danced in four rows; behind 
 them were thirty-one musicians beating time 
 on the sticks, besides five great drums. The 
 people drank very much of an intoxicating 
 liquor made from the juice of the sugar-cane. 
 They often brought us some, and entreated us 
 to taste, but we always refused, saying ' Once 
 we were as fond of it as you are, but now we 
 know it to be a bad thing, and therefore do not 
 wish to drink it, and we advise you to let it 
 alone also.' But this was said in vain. 
 
 " June 21. Kuakini the governor has pre- 
 sented to his visitors six hundred and twenty- 
 two dosjs, fifty-eight calabashes of poi, three 
 feathered cloaks, and t\vo canoes. 
 
 ' June 23. (Lord's day.) The chiefs were 
 all gone to sport in the surf this morning. At 
 noon they returned, and then we had public 
 worship. I read a chapter in one of the Gos- 
 pels, and afterwards prayed with them. Aore, 
 Kuakini, and several others attended. Many 
 more came to our family worship in the evening. 
 
 " June 24. In the morning Miomioi, a man 
 belonging to the queen, was sent on board of 
 the vessels to fetch eight of the idols which had 
 been brought from the other side of the island, 
 and were intended to have been carried to 
 the king at Oahu. The reason why they 
 sent for them now was the man who had 
 been left on board to take care of the goods 
 was seized with illness in the night, and re- 
 moved from the ship to the shore. The chiefs 
 
 immediately said, * It is the spirits of the idols 
 which are trying to kill the man ; let us, there- 
 fore, send for them and burn them.' In the 
 afternoon the messenger returned with Terai- 
 pahoa, Tetonemotu, Paparahaamau, Hatuahia, 
 Kaunaruura, Maiora, and Akuahanai. These 
 were all soon after devoured by the fire, at 
 which my heart rejoiced. 
 
 " June 26. Early this morning Kuakini's 
 men, who had been sent on board of all the ves- 
 sels to search for idols, returned. The chief man 
 then ordered his people to make a large fire, 
 and he himself set to work to help them. So 
 he and his people burnt one hundred and tiro 
 idols on the spot. Then I thought of what I 
 had witnessed in Tahiti and Moorea, when our 
 idols were thrown into the flames, particularly 
 those that were consumed at Papetoai by the 
 chief Patii ; and with my heart I praised Jeho- 
 vah the true God, that I now saw these people 
 following our example. 
 
 " Taumarii and Kuakini talked a great deal 
 with me this day about our destruction of the 
 idols at Tahiti, and seemed very glad indeed 
 that they had burnt theirs, though not all yet, 
 for the people, they said, had hid some among 
 the rocks." 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Distressing Weather at Sea Nocturnal Heauty of the 
 HiMM-n-. V(ir:irity nf a Shark A Coral Inland Sperm 
 Whales Woman 'dies on Board -Itanal at Sea Ar- 
 rival at Rurutu Reception by Natht-s Chapel Co- 
 ral-formatipns A Villi-i In'-fiiuity of the Inhabit- 
 ant Missionary Addresses Adventures of a Ch'n-f 
 at Sea Introduction of the Gospel in Rurutu Extracts 
 from MU-ioiMry Letters Idols exposed to contempt 
 Raiateaii Missionaries Speeches by Natives. 
 
 FRIDAY, Aug. 23. During the forenoon we 
 (the Deputation, Mr. Ellis, and our ship's com- 
 pany) were becalmed, while a rolling cross-sea 
 occasioned such violent pitching of our little 
 vessel that some of us were more disordered by 
 it than we had been before in all our voyages 
 since we left England. Towards evening the 
 wind sprang up, and our ship's motion became 
 yet more distressing. The hogs and goa: 
 exceedingly disturbed, and plunged about in 
 their alarm ; one of the largest of the former 
 even leaped over the bulwarks, and was lost. 
 
 Aug. 24. The high gale of last night abated 
 towards dawn, and we should have been again 
 becalmed but for the turbulence of the 
 We are now making our course eastward of the 
 islands. Yesterday evening, amidst the fading 
 glory of sunset, and through the gathering 
 gloom of night, the snow-topped mountains of 
 Hawaii, at the distance of fifty miles, presented 
 images of splendour that seemed scarcely to be- 
 long to this earth glittering, then glimmering, 
 then slowly disappearing, as we saw them be- 
 tween the flat sea and the arched sky. The 
 rolling of our small bark, the flapping of her 
 loose sails, the rattling of idle ropes, and the 
 uneasiness of most of the living creatures, both 
 human and brute, on board, made the day irk- 
 some and the night dreary. 
 
 Sept. 2. The last sentence, under date of 
 Aug. 24, sufficiently describes the circumstances 
 
VORACITY OF A SHARK BURIAL AT SEA. 
 
 129 
 
 and feelings by which our patience was exer- 
 cised during the intervening days. A comfort- 
 less calm, occasionally interrupted with a brief 
 brisk gale, or diversified with heavy showers, 
 continued all this while, and AVC made compara- 
 tively little way. A few tropical birds visited 
 us from time to time. These, when they came 
 towards the vessel, or receded from it, were al- 
 ways welcomed or regretted, as inhabitants of 
 shores invisible to us, which they could reach in 
 a fe\v hours on their wings of surpassing swift- 
 ness, while we were ever moving, yet never 
 perceived ourselves nearer, by any way-marks, 
 to the island-harbours which we sought. The 
 evenings, during this interval, were often gorge- 
 ous with the array of clouds, intensely brilliant, 
 dark or flecked with every hue the setting sun 
 could shed upon their skirts, and modified in 
 every form, fantastic, flimsy, or sublime, the 
 varying winds could give them, as they came, 
 and were, and went, we knew not whence, or 
 how, or whither. The nights, too, after these 
 twilight apparitions, were correspondingly se- 
 rene and beautiful with stars ; while frequent 
 meteors, as we looked upon the figured firma- 
 ment, startled us out of silent thought into sud- 
 den ejaculations. 
 
 Sept. 7. A shark gave us a singular proof of 
 pertinacious voracity. In bolting at a bait, he 
 ran off with a large hook, which we saw hang- 
 ing in his snout. He also received five or six 
 horrid gashes on his back from a harpoon, 
 which shared off large flakes of skin where it 
 struck, and yet the reckless animal returned 
 with desperate instinct to his prey, which he 
 followed for several hours close to the stern of 
 the vessel. Both he and we were disappointed 
 when he escaped with life, but without the prize 
 for which he had so long hazarded it. 
 
 Sept. 19. Squalls, breezes, calms, and showers, 
 alternately have helped or hindered us, during 
 the last ten days. In the evening the man at the 
 mast-head announced land, south-west, about 
 fifteen miles oft'. Next morning (20th) we passed 
 it within three miles. It proved a coral-lagoon 
 island, on which we discerned cocoa-nut trees, 
 towering above the thick underwood, but no in 
 habitants, except birds, of which several kinds 
 were flying to and fro. We could not find this 
 island in the chart. By lunar observation it 
 lies South lat. 15" 51'. West long. 154 43'. 
 When we consider that not a sparrow can fall 
 to the ground without the knowledge of our 
 " Father which is in heaven," a solitary coral- 
 rock, growing through ages into land, though 
 never trod by human foot, yet peopled by innu- 
 merable myriads of insects, reptiles, and fowls, 
 presents a province of God's universal empire, 
 not for one moment forgotten or overlooked, in 
 respect to its meanest ephemeral inhabitant, 
 amidst the cares of the whole creation so wise, 
 so good is He ; and, oh! the delight to think, 
 that, in grace as well as in providence, he is 
 " our Father in heaven." 
 
 Sept 21. We have been carried sevenl 
 leagues past the latitude of Huahine, 10 42', 
 which we hoped to have reached by this time, 
 but have little prospect of soon doing so, at pre- 
 
 sent. A shoal of sperm whales has been going 
 parallel to our course, and not quicker than our 
 vessel, about two miles to windward, in the 
 same direction. There must have been many, 
 as we repeatedly saw seven or eight of them 
 spouting at the same time. 
 
 Sept. 23. The wife of the native Missionary 
 Mattatore died in the night. She had been 
 seized with an inflammation of the bowels some 
 days ago, but had passed the crisis and was re- 
 covering, when she insisted on being taken on 
 deck this morning. There she got wet with 
 the flashing of the spray over the sides of the 
 ship, and refused to be removed, till she was at 
 length carried below by force. The dangerous 
 symptoms soon returned, and she expired at 
 midnight. Mr. Ellis, who conversed with her 
 in her last hours, hopes that she, like the " wo- 
 man who was a sinner," sought and found 
 mercy. Her conduct^at Oahu had brought dis- 
 grace upon herself, and occasioned much grief 
 to her Christian relatives and friends. 
 
 Sept. 24. The remains of the deceased were 
 this day sewed up in a strong canvass, weighted 
 witli two eighteen-pound balls, and committed 
 to the deep, after suitable religious addresses 
 had been delivered by Mr. Ellis, intheTahitian, 
 and by Mr. Tyerman, in the English, language, 
 to the islanders and the crew, respectively. It 
 is but a small circumstance among the things 
 that have been done under the sun, yet, as con- 
 nected with the destiny of an immortal spirit, 
 the record may hereafter awaken solemn thought 
 in the minds of man v living, and of some unborn, 
 that on the 24th day of September, 1822, S. 
 lat. 18 25', and W. long. 150 51', the corpse 
 of Mattatore Vahine, a heathen by birth, when 
 all her people were heathen, and who died pro- 
 fessing faith in the gospel, when all her people 
 had renounced idolatry, was thus buried, with 
 Christian rites, no more to be seen on earth, till 
 the sea shall give up its dead, in the resurrec- 
 tion, at the sound of the last trumpet. From 
 what point of the earth's surface, or the ocean's 
 bed, each of us may wake up, in that great and 
 terrible day of the Lord, is of small import, 
 though the anticipation may make flesh and 
 spirit fail, in speculating upon it ; but to " wake 
 up" in his " likeness," and " be satisfied," is 
 verily the consummation of " the hope" of " his 
 calling;" for then we shall "know what are 
 the riches of his inheritance in the saints." 
 " A life in heaven ! Oh ! what, is this ? 
 The sum of all that faith believed ; 
 Fulness of joy, and depths of bliss. 
 Unseen, unfathom'd, unconceived !" 
 
 Sept. 30. At day-break we plainly distin- 
 guished an island, about seven miles in length, 
 of which we had caught an imperfect view yes- 
 terday evening. It reminded us so much of the 
 lovely spots with which our eyes had been 
 formerly familiarized in the South Pacific, that, 
 after an absence of six months in the North, we 
 felt as though we were coming home. A high 
 central peak, with lower eminences sloping to- 
 wards the shore, and intervening valleys, 
 through which ran fertilizing streams, supplied, 
 in part, from mountain-cascades these, with 
 the luxuriance of tropical vegetation, at once re- 
 
130 
 
 AN ISLAND DESCRIED FROM DECK ARRIVAL AT RURUTU. 
 
 minded us of Tahiti, Huahine, Raiatea, and 
 others, and made us long to be acquainted with 
 this younger sister, as she seemed, dwelling 
 alone amidst the solitary sea, and at so great a 
 distance from "the family circles," if so we 
 may call the windward and the leeward groups. 
 We did not yet know the name of this island, 
 but stood into the bay before us, which forms 
 the arc of a circle, receding about a mile from 
 the open main, and three miles' span from point 
 to point across. At the head of this bay we 
 were surprised to see several neat-looking white 
 houses, built in the English fashion, as used in 
 the Christianized islands, and on an elevation a 
 staff, with a white flag flying upon it, as a signal 
 that we were descried and invited to land. 
 
 Our boats were in such crazy condition that 
 neither of them were fit to lower upon the water, 
 and it was some time before a canoe of am kind 
 came off to us from the shore. We began, 
 therefore, to fear that we should neither obtain 
 wood nor water, of both of which we were in 
 such need that we had not enough of either 
 left to dress the dinner of the day. Our joy 
 was proportionately great when we perceived u 
 man coming towards us, paddling himself in an 
 exceedingly small vessel, which proved to be 
 nothing more than a poi-dish, about seven feet 
 long and thirty inches wide. In this platter he 
 buffeted the waves and dashed through the 
 spray, upon the reef, which kept him employed, 
 with one hand, continually baling out the watrr. 
 When, at length, he reached us, he seemed shy 
 of drawing too near ; but he told us that the 
 name of the island was Rurutu, and that the 
 king had sent him to inquire who we were, 
 what we wanted, and whither we were bound. 
 By our answer he was delighted to find that 
 there was a Missionary on board who could 
 speak his own language, and also some natives 
 of Huahine. He now told us that his country- 
 men had but one canoe, which was almost 
 rotten; for, having been for some time pastern- 
 ployed in building a chapel and dwelling-houses, 
 of a better construction than those of their 
 fathers, they had neglected to repair or replace 
 their canoes as they fell to decay. He added, 
 that being expressly commanded by the king to 
 return forthwith, after obtaining the information 
 which he sought, he must now leave us, but we 
 might expect another visit presently. And back 
 he paddled, with great joy, to bear the good 
 tidings to his people. 
 
 Scarcely had he landed when two vessels 
 started from the shore ; the one (that which he 
 had mentioned) a canoe, built after the fashion 
 of the country, with high stem and stern, both 
 pointed, and the sides ingeniously carved ; the 
 other the mere trunk of a tree, hollowed out 
 and very clumsy. These were soon alongside 
 of us. In one of them came, with the natives, 
 an American, who had resided here seven years. 
 But the ship's carpenter having by this time 
 made one of our own boats tolerably water- 
 tight, we immediately went on shore, accompa- 
 nied by a native acquainted with the passage 
 through the reef to the beach. This was a nar- 
 row, irregular, crooked opening, just wide 
 
 enough to admit the oars of our boat to ply be- 
 tween the coral-rocks, over which the surf was 
 beating tremendously, and bursting from the 
 right hand and from the left over our path, 
 so that had one of the heavier swells fallen 
 upon our crazy conveyance it must have been 
 swamped instantaneously, and probably our lives 
 been lost in the attempt to cross the intricate 
 strait. But we were mercifully preserved, and 
 reached the quay unharmed. Mr. Ellis and the 
 captain had preceded us in the native canoe. 
 A pier, a quarter of a mile in length, had been 
 recently constructed of vast coral blocks, as in 
 other harbours of the Society Islands, which 
 afforded a convenient landing-place. Nearly 
 the whole population were standing on the 
 beach to receive us, which they did with affec- 
 tionate joy, as though we had been friends and 
 brethren returning home, after long absence, 
 rather than strangers and visitors from a far 
 country. The king advanced to meet us. To 
 him we were introduced by Mr. Ellis, who 
 spoke the language, and well knew the history 
 of his little kingdom. He is a young man, about 
 eighteen years of age, very light-coloured, and 
 of remarkably mild aspect and graceful de- 
 meanour. His consort also appears exceedingly 
 amiable and modest. Their infant son may be 
 compared with most European children in 
 whiteness and delicacy of complexion. His 
 majesty's name is Teuruarii ; he was accompa- 
 nied by a tall chief, called Auura, his friend 
 and guardian, a dignified and agre > ahlr j. r- 
 sonage. Two native teachers, from 1; 
 who had been sent hither eighteen months ago, 
 were delighted to see and welcome Mr. Ellis, 
 whom they knew, and ourselves, as the repre- 
 sentatives of that Society through whose agency 
 the blessings of Christianity have been communi- 
 cated, from shore to shore, throughout so wide 
 a section of the South Pacific. After we had 
 taken some refreshment at the houses of these 
 two humble preachers of the gospel, where it 
 had never been preached before, and where no 
 Christian-born minister had ever laboured, Mr. 
 Ellis preached to a congregation of about two 
 hundred people, in the very commodious chapel 
 recently erected, according to models furnished 
 by the Raiateau residents. Here, our eyes 
 were struck, and our hearts affected, by the ap- 
 pearance of certain simple yet signal trophies of 
 " the \\onl of God," which in these islands is 
 verily going forth "conquering and to con- 
 quer." These were the spears, not indeed 
 " beaten into pruning-hooks," but converted 
 into staves to support the balustrade of the 
 pulpit-staircase ; for the people here " learn war 
 no more," but, all submitting to the sceptre of 
 the Prince of Peace, they have cast away their 
 instruments of cruelty with their idols. 
 
 In the afternoon we walked to a conspicuous 
 rock at the western extremity of the bay. The 
 road leads over the low ground between the 
 water's edge and the foot of the mountains. 
 This plain is about a quarter of a mile in 
 breadth, and has manifestly been recovered 
 from the sea, being a coral formation, now well 
 covered with earth, washed from the flanks of 
 
A TILLAGE GREAT MORTALITY AT RURUTU. 
 
 131 
 
 the adjacent eminences, which has gradually 
 constituted a soil teeming with luxuriant vege- 
 tation. The plants, shrubs, and trees, are simi- 
 lar to those of Tahiti. We measured the trunk 
 of one of the latter, and found the girth, at two 
 feet from the ground, to be nearly seven yards ; 
 this enormous bole was hollow from the bottom 
 to the top : the diameter at the root was twenty 
 feet. "When we reached the aforesaid rock, the 
 object of our curiosity, we were greatly sur- 
 prised (even after all that we had seen elsewhere 
 of the kind) to perceive that it was a coral mass, 
 rising to the perpendicular height of two hun- 
 dred feet above the beach. In the evening we 
 went over to the opposite side of the harbour, 
 and examined a corresponding rock at the point 
 there, which proved to be of the like structure, 
 yet exceeding the former by one-third in bulk 
 and elevation, being full three hundred feet 
 above the shore. The unanswerable question 
 naturally arises, Was the level of the sea, at any 
 remote period, above these formations, as the 
 coral insects are never known to work upward 
 beyond high-water mark 1 Or, have these pro- 
 digious fragments of animal labours been heaved 
 from their ocean foundations, by some convul- 
 sion of nature, whicli has left them in situations 
 where they never could have been raised by 
 their minute architects, in the ordinary course 
 of Providence ! In the sides of these cliffs are 
 many caverns, richly adorned with stalactites, 
 of the sulphate of lime, and multitudes of sea- 
 fowl build and rear their young there. 
 
 The principal village is situated at the head of 
 the bay, consisting of the chapel aforemen- 
 tioned, and from sixty to seventy houses, scat- 
 tered at pleasant distances among the trees. 
 These are pretty oval structures, built on plat- 
 forms of broad stones. The materials are timber 
 and bamboos, very ingeniously put together, 
 rounded at either end, having roofs which pre- 
 sent the cove of a Gothic arched ceiling within. 
 They are often fancifully ornamented both ex- 
 ternally and internally ; the people of this little 
 island being distinguished, above all others in 
 these seas, for their taste and skill in h'nery of 
 every kind, from the feathered helmets of their 
 warriors to the carving on their canoes. The 
 tattooing of their limbs appears to us less elegant 
 than the style in which this barbarous art is 
 executed in some other islands. In manners, 
 dress, and language, they very nearly resemble 
 the inhabitants of Tahiti and Huahine. Their 
 number is very small, not exceeding three hun- 
 dred and fourteen at this time, though a few 
 years ago, it is said, the population exceeded 
 six thousand. A pestilential disease ague and 
 violent fever, broke out at that time, which 
 continued, year after year, to sweep away mul- 
 titudes, and had not the plague been provi- 
 dentially stayed, Rurutu had, ere this, been a 
 wilderness. 
 
 Oct. 1. In compliance with their own re- 
 quest we met the people from every part of the 
 island, at the chapel. Mr. Ellis explained the 
 circumstances of our being providentially obliged 
 to sail to the Sandwich Islands, when we had 
 intended to go to the Marquesas ; and how, as 
 
 little of our own choice, we had been brought 
 hither, by having been diverted from our course, 
 and carried thus far beyond it, to witness, as it 
 now appeared, what the Lord had already done 
 for Rurutu, and to forward, so far as He might 
 give us grace and opportunity, the greater things 
 which we trusted He was about to do here. 
 The Deputation, then, by aid of an interpreter, 
 addressed the congregation in the name of the 
 London Missionary Society, bidding them God's 
 speed in the good work which they had begun, 
 and praying that it might be effectually carried 
 on. Auura, the king's guardian and prime 
 minister, then addressed us in the most gratify- 
 ing terms of friendship and Christian love ; 
 acknowledging the obligations of the king, the 
 chiefs, and all the inhabitants, to the noble 
 body of British philanthropists from whom they 
 had received the gospel, and were already reap- 
 ing and enjoying its happy first-fruits. He 
 said, emphatically, " We have given up our 
 island to Jesus Christ, to be governed by Him, 
 as our King ; we have given ourselves to Him, 
 that we may serve Him ; we have given our 
 property to Him, for the advancement of his 
 glory ; we have given Him our all, and we de- 
 sire to be entirely His." The native Mission- 
 aries here then congratulated the meeting on 
 this occasion, and hoped that our visit would 
 prove a national blessing. 
 
 The circumstances under which Rurutu was 
 visited by the gospel were, perhaps, the most 
 remarkable among all those wonders of Divine 
 grace which have been recently wrought in 
 these uttermost parts of the sea. While the 
 destroying angel was, day and night, passing 
 through the land (as noticed before), slaying, 
 not the first-born only, but, without regard to 
 age, sex, or station, men, women, and children, 
 till scarcely a twentieth part of the former po- 
 pulation survived the unremitting and unsparing 
 stroke Auura, the chief mentioned in the fore- 
 going paragraph, was haunted by a strange 
 feeling which he could not resist, nor yet un- 
 derstand, except that it prompted him to leave 
 his own in quest of some other isle, where he 
 should hear of something good. He commu- 
 nicated the burden of his thoughts to a friend, 
 who heartily entering into his purpose, they in- 
 fluenced their wives, with a chosen number of 
 their dependents, to embark with them in a 
 double canoe, and sail in search of happier 
 shores, where they might themselves find refuge 
 from the pestilence at home, or obtain help and 
 deliverance from its devastation, for their coun- 
 trymen. After a voyage of several days, they 
 reached Tubuai, an island about a hundred 
 miles distant from Rurutu. There they were 
 hospitably received and entertained. Having 
 refreshed their spirits, as well as reinvigorated 
 their bodies, by a sojourn in that healthful spot, 
 they re-embarked for their own island, hoping 
 that the plague might then be ceased, by the 
 abatement of the anger of the god from whom 
 they believed it had been sent; or, if there were 
 no other means of escaping from destruction, 
 that they might persuade many of their perish- 
 ing countrymen to emigrate to Tubuai, or any 
 
 K 2 
 
132 EXTRACTS FROM MISSIONARY LETTERS RESPECTING RURUTU. 
 
 other island on which the curse had not fallen. 
 In tin's attempt they were frustrated, being 
 crossed by a tempest which drove them out of 
 their track, and beyond their simple reckoning ; 
 so that, day after day, and week after week, 
 they were rowing when they could row, right 
 onward, they knew not whither or drifting, 
 when wearied and bewildered they could do 
 nothing better than yield to the current or the 
 wind, that bore them along the surface of a 
 measureless ocean still hoping to light upon 
 some fortunate isle, where they might land, if 
 it were but to die, that they might escape being 
 " devoured by the Evil Spirit of the great 
 waters." 
 
 The following document will show the happy 
 issue of this very singular adventure : 
 
 Extracts from a Communication by Messrs. 
 Threlkeld and Williams, Missionaries in tlie 
 Island of liaiatca, dated Raiatea, Oct. 18, 
 1821. 
 
 " On the 8th of last March we saw a strange 
 sail at sea, which made towards the reef, and 
 appeared to be determined to hazard running 
 on it, instead of bearing up for the proper har- 
 bour, a practice resorted to by the natives when 
 in extremity. Perceiving their imminent dan^r;-, 
 the elm-fa manned our boats and went off to 
 pilot the strangers safely into the harbour ; 
 when they armed we found they were natives 
 of the Island of Rurutu. They had come from 
 Maupiti, touched on their voyage at Borabora, 
 but could not get in for the contrary wind. 
 They had been drifted about at sou tor three 
 weeks, and latterly, without either food or water, 
 except sea-water, which they were obliged to 
 drink. Contrary winds drove them from their 
 own island ; but the Lord, to whose merciful 
 designs winds and waves are subservient, pro- 
 tected and guided th. m to these islands. 
 Maupiti was the first island they could make. 
 
 " They were exceedingly astonished at the 
 difference of customs here, particularly in seeing 
 men and women eating together, and the Areoi 
 Society, their dances, and every lascivious 
 amusement, completely put away. When they 
 heard of the new system of religion, and saw 
 the people worshipping the living and true 
 God, they were convinced of its propriety and 
 superiority, and immediately began to learn to 
 read. 
 
 " The chief, with his wife and a few others, 
 went on shore at Borabora. Mr. Orsmond, 
 the Missionary at that station, paid every atten- 
 tion to them during their short stay, gave them 
 books, and begun to teach them to read ; but, 
 as the canoe and the greater part of the people 
 were at Raiatea, they soon followed. They 
 were about twenty-five in number, men and 
 women. We set apart a certain time for their 
 instruction, supplied them all with elementary 
 books, and gave them in charge to our deacons, 
 who were very much pleased with and diligent 
 in the discharge of their new office. Their 
 language being somewhat different, the deacons 
 could make themselves understood better than 
 we could. 
 
 " Auura, their chief, paid particular atten- 
 tion, as well as his wife ; the greater part of the 
 others appeared slothful. He appeared to ap- 
 preciate the worth of knowledge, and the value 
 of the good tidings of salvation ; his attention 
 was great, and lus questions upon general sub- 
 jects very judicious ; but his attention to and 
 questions upon our discourses were such as 
 surprised not only the Raiateans but ourselves 
 also. We think he possesses a very acute judg- 
 ment so far as he knows ; and we have now 
 indubitable evidence that he is a true convert 
 from idolatry to Christianity. Auura was con- 
 tinually expressing his anxious desire to return 
 to his own land, and to carry to his poor coun- 
 trymen the knowledge he had obtained of the 
 true God, and his Son Jesus Christ, expressing 
 his fears, in an affectionate manner, that when 
 he got back he should find very few left, as the 
 Evil Spirit was killing them so fast. 
 
 " The brig Hope, Captain Grimes, from 
 London, touched at Raiatea on July the 3d : 
 we mentioned to the captain our wish to get 
 these poor people to their own island ; he, with 
 a readiness which does him the highest credit, 
 offered immediately to touch at their island, 
 and to take our boat in tow, that we might 
 have an opportunity, should our boat return 
 from this, to us, unknown land, to open a com- 
 munication with the natives. We sent for 
 Auura, the chief, and his wife, who were highly 
 delighted with the prospect of returning, but he 
 raised an objection to going to his land of dark- 
 ness, unless he had some one with him to in- 
 struct him and his people. We were rather at 
 a loss how to act ; however, we immediately 
 called the deacons, informed them of the cir- 
 eumstanee, and desired them to inquire who 
 would volunteer their services to go as teachers 
 to these poor people. They assembled the 
 church, when two came forward, we hope with 
 the spirit and language of the prophet of old, 
 ' Here are we, send us.' They were the very 
 in. n we should have chosen, had we thought it 
 prudent to nominate ; but we left it to Him 
 who disposes the hearts and thoughts of men 
 according to his own will. Mahamene, a 
 deacon, having a wife, but no children, was 
 one ; Puna, a steady, and we hope a truly 
 pious, man, having a wife, with two children, 
 was the other ; they were both men we could 
 ill spare, on account of their steadiness and our 
 confidence in them ; but such characters are the 
 only proper persons for such a work, therefore 
 every other consideration was obliged to give 
 way. To select a crew to bring back our boat 
 was the next consideration ; as this took up the 
 greatest part of the night, they had but a short 
 time to get ready for the ship, which was to 
 sail early the next morning. 
 
 " The brig got under weigh the 5th of July, 
 and after most affectionately committing Maha- 
 mene and Puna, with their wives and little 
 ones, to the care of our Lord and God, in the 
 presence of the congregation, we gave to each a 
 letter in English and Tahitian, recognising 
 them as under the patronage of the London 
 Missionary Society, with our sanction, and re- 
 
EXTRACTS FROM MISSIONARY LETTERS RESPECTING RURUTU. 133 
 
 commending them to any captains of vessels 
 that might touch at Rurutu. 
 
 '* As the vessel lay outside the reef, we were 
 prevented from having a regular service ; but, 
 though short, it was both affecting and interest- 
 ing. At length we conducted our new fellow- 
 labourers to the brig. The captain paid every 
 attention, took our boat in tow, and departed, 
 leaving us anxiously waiting to hear in due 
 season of their reception and success ; nor were 
 we disappointed. 
 
 " Part of the night previous to their de- 
 parture was spent in providing for them, as well 
 as we could, those articles which they would 
 rind both necessary and useful. Every member 
 of the church brought something as a testi- 
 monial of his affection; one brought a razor, 
 another a knife, another a roll of cloth, another 
 a few nails ; some one little thing, and some 
 another ; we gave them all the elementary books 
 we could spare, with a few copies of the Tahi- 
 tian Gospel of Matthew. Thus we equipped 
 them for this interesting little mission as well 
 as our circumstances would allow. 
 
 " On August 9th, after little more than a 
 month's absence, we had the pleasure of seeing 
 the boat return, laden with prisoners, the gods 
 of the heathen, taken in this bloodless war, Avon 
 by the blood of Him who is the Prince of 
 Peace. They were six days at sea in the open 
 boat. On reading the letters brought by the 
 boat, we felt, perhaps, something of that holy 
 joy and sacred pleasure that the angelic hosts 
 will experience when they shall shout, The 
 ki)iy<1<ns of this world are become the kingdom 
 of our God and of his Christ. The letters were 
 from Auura,* the chief of Rurutu, and from 
 Mahamene and Puna. The following is a 
 translation of the letter of Mahamene and Puna, 
 the two native teachers, to Messrs. "Williams 
 and Threlkcld, dated Rurutu, Friday, July 13, 
 1821." 
 
 " Rurutu, July 13, 1821. 
 
 " May you two have peace through God, in 
 your residence at Raiatea! 
 
 " We think God has heard your prayers, be- 
 cause we received no ill treatment on board the 
 ship, and because we are both now alive at 
 Rurutu. Behold ! they have given to us this 
 land.f not because we asked it, but because of 
 their own hatred to the Evil Spirit. Pray ear- 
 nestly to God that we may have a permanent 
 residence at Rurutu, whilst we are teaching 
 them their letters, and to know the name of the 
 Son of God, and showing them the evil of their 
 ways. On the 8th July the meeting of the 
 chiefs and king was held, when Auura spoke 
 thus to the chiefs and king : Friends ! this is 
 my desire, and therefore am I come back to 
 this land, that you may know the name of the 
 Son of God, and the work of the Holy Spirit, 
 in enlightening our hearts, and the mercy of 
 
 * Although Auurn was with us only a short time, he 
 made such JTO^I-I-SS that he had completely learned the 
 SpelltDg-buok, pait of the Catechism, and could road in 
 the Gospel of Matthew ; before he left he could write 
 and sj'ell correctly. 
 
 t That the people may be instructed in Christianity. 
 
 God towards us. This is my desire, let the 
 Evil Spirit be this instant cast into the fire. Is 
 it agreeable to you, king and chiefs 1 shall we 
 burn the Evil Spirit even now"?* shall we over- 
 throw his kingdom 1 Do not any more let us 
 worship him ; never more let us implore him ; 
 let him have no more reign in our hearts. Let 
 him have nothing in this land that has no 
 teachers.f Let the government of these little 
 lands become Jehovah's, and his alone, then 
 my heart will rejoice through you. Behold ! 
 you thought I had been eaten up, in the depths 
 of the sea, by the Evil Spirit ; but, behold ! I 
 am not destroyed by him. He is the great 
 father of all deceit. I did not know that God 
 would give me to that land, Raiatea, where the 
 word of God flourishes and grows ; and behold ! 
 God has also guarded me back again. Will it 
 please you that we should all assemble together, 
 at one place, and all eat together 1 !!' 
 
 " Tho king and chiefs answered thus : ' It 
 will entirely please us ; we will receive and 
 hold fast the word of life. We are glad becavise 
 of your saying, ' Burn the Evil Spirit in the fire. 5 
 Let every thing made by our hands, as a god, 
 be charred in the fire. Behold, you say, O 
 Auura, we have spirits or souls we never 
 knew that man had a spirit within him no, 
 never !' 
 
 " Auura then answered thus : * I have one 
 word more to say to you these two men (the 
 teachers) are chosen by the church at Raiatea. 
 God caused the thought to grow in the hearts 
 of the Missionaries, and, behold, they have sent 
 them to teach us to read ; because of their great 
 love to us, these two are sent. The Mission- 
 aries think very much of them, for the Mission- 
 aries are very compassionate towards us. The 
 people of Raiatea thought, in their regard to 
 these two men, that they would be killed in our 
 land, and that the boat would be seized by us. 
 The Raiateans think our land is a barbarous 
 land ; therefore do not ill use these men, but 
 behave with the greatest kindness to them, and 
 then it will be well.' 
 
 *' The king and chiefs answered ' It is quite 
 agreeable to us. Now do 1' 
 
 " Then up started two men inspired by the 
 Evil Spirit. One of the evil spirits said' It is 
 agreeable it is agreeable : we will hold the 
 good word !' J The other man, Avho was also 
 inspired by the Evil Spirit, thus spake : ' I have 
 seen the foundation of the firmament, up in the 
 sky. Taaroa (the great idol) brought me 
 faith.' 
 
 "Auura then said, ' There answered the Evil 
 Spirit ; thus then do leap up, that we may see 
 thee flying up into the sky. Do so, now, im- 
 mediately. Truly thou art even the very found- 
 ation of deceit. The people of Rurutu have 
 been completely destroyed through thee, and 
 through thee alone ; and now thou shalt not 
 deceive us again we will not be deceived again 
 through thee. We know the true God ; begone ! 
 
 * The Idols of the Evil Spirit. 
 
 + Ivo Missionaries, nor Christian teachers, actually in- 
 structing the people. 
 
 J Speaking feigncdly. Or principal ,'od. 
 
i:U EXTRACTS FROM MISSIONARY LETTERS RESPECTING RURUTU. 
 
 If the Son of God stood in our presence, thou 
 wouldest be ashamed.' When Auura had done 
 speaking, he sat down. 
 
 " Mahamene then stood up, and said : ' You 
 have agreed, and your desire is to Jesus, that He 
 may save your spirits. Ye are the lands for 
 which the Christians at Raiatea, Tahiti, Eimeo, 
 Huahine, Borabora, and England have prayed. 
 The churches, wherever there are Missionaries, 
 have compassion upon the lands that have no 
 teachers ; therefore they subscribe property, 
 that the word of God may be sent to the lands 
 that are without teachers. The Missionaries of 
 Raiatea have sent us two to teach you letters, 
 and the name of the true God. May you be 
 saved through Jesus Christ !' Mahamene then 
 sat down. 
 
 "Puna (the other teacher) then rose, and 
 said, ' Dear friends, this is my thought towards 
 you and affection grows in my heart now to- 
 wards you, in your living in darkness, and in 
 the shade of death. Behold, you are eating tin- 
 food of death the poisonous fish and drinking 
 the bitter waters. Behold, we are here before 
 you, to make known to you the true God, that 
 you may know Him. This I say to you, O king 
 and chiefs ! Prepare one place where you may 
 all cat together, you, and your wives, and your 
 children, and your king, at one eating-place ; 
 and there the Evil Spirit, who has just now in- 
 spired that man, shall be completely ashamed. 
 He has no refuge ; cast away every disgraceful 
 thing from among you, for that is the reason he 
 remains among you. You worship him, and he 
 is accustomed to deceive you ; but now be fer- 
 vent in prayer to God that you may escape. 
 Should you not listen to that word you will die, 
 and you will bear the wrath of God, ami you 
 will be led by the Evil Spirit, you have now cast 
 away, into the fire of hell ; but if you regard the 
 word and the name of the Son of God, you will 
 in that means be saved. May you be saved 
 through Jesus Christ '.' 
 
 (Signed) "MAHAMI 
 
 "PUNA." 
 
 " To the Missionaries Williams and 
 
 Threlkeld, Raiatea. 
 
 " The eating together (observe the Mission- 
 aries) was on the day after the above meeting, 
 and was to be the test of the truth of the 
 word of God : if they died, according to the 
 predictions of the priests namely, that any 
 woman eating either hog or turtle would be 
 devoured by the Evil Spirit, or any one eating 
 on a sacred place would surely die, and be de- 
 voured also then they would not destroy their 
 idols ; but, if no one sustained any injury, they 
 would then utterly destroy all their gods. They 
 met accordingly ; and, after satisfying their ap- 
 petites without sustaining any injury, proceeded 
 to demolish totally the maraes a work which 
 was completely effected that day. It is worthy 
 of remark that, when the boat first reached the 
 shore, Mahamene and Puna, with their party, 
 had knelt down on the spot to return thanks TO 
 God for their preservation, not knowing that the 
 spot was sacred to Oro, one of their idols. The 
 Rurutuans said immediately, This people will 
 
 die.' The party also ate inadvertently on a 
 sacred spot. When the Rurutuans saw that, 
 they said, * No doubt they will die for this tres- 
 pass on the sacred ground,' and looked earnestly, 
 expecting some one to have swollen or fallen 
 down dead suddenly ; but after they had looked 
 a considerable time, and saw no harm come to 
 them, they changed their minds, and said, 
 Surely theirs is the truth ; but, perhaps, the 
 god will come in the night and kill them we 
 will wait and see !' One man actually went in 
 the night to the wife of the chief (Auura), who 
 also ate part of a hog or turtle on the sacred 
 spot, and said, Are you still alive V When 
 the morning arrived, and the Rurutuans found 
 no harm had happened to any of them, they be- 
 came exceedingly disgusted at their having been 
 deceived so long by the Evil Spirit. 
 
 " On the arrival of the boat with the trophies 
 of victory, a general desire prevailed to see these 
 objects of adoration. Wishing to gratify all, 
 we set apart an evening for the exhibition of the 
 Rurutu idols. The large place of worship was 
 lighted up with wooden chandeliers and cocoa- 
 nut shells for lamps. Brother Threlkeld com- 
 menced the service with the hymn, ' Blow ye 
 tin- trumpet, blow,' which had been translated 
 into the Tahitian language ; he then prayed, 
 and delivered an introductory address. Brother 
 Williams next read the letter from the chiefs, 
 &c. 
 
 " The several idols were then exposed t 
 by three of the deacons. The first \\ 
 great national god, Taaroa, which was exhibited 
 by Paumoana. This idol is a rude figure, made 
 01 platted sinnet, in the shape of a man, with 
 an opening down the front, through which it 
 was filled with little gods, or the family gods of 
 the old chiefs, the points of spears, old slings, 
 &c., of ancient warriors. He made some ap- 
 propriate remarks on the great power of Jehovah 
 in turning that people from dumb idols, 
 that it was not by human strength. Formerly, 
 he observed, war must have ensued, and blood 
 must have been shed, before the evil spirits 
 would have given up ; but these had been ob- 
 tained without either by the power of God 
 alone. 
 
 " Temauri then rose and exhibited Rooteabu, 
 an idol inferior to the former, and made some 
 suitable remarks. 
 
 "Uaeva next exhibited all the family gods, 
 turning them first to one side, and then to the 
 other, inviting every eye to behold them ; and 
 remarked on the superiority of this war to all 
 the wars in which they had ever been engaged, 
 ascribing the victory to Jesus, the great con- 
 queror. 
 
 " One of the men who went in the boat to 
 Rurutu, and returned to Raiatea, related, that, 
 on the day they left Rurutu, a canoe, full of the 
 natives of Rimatura, a small island about forty 
 miles distant from it, also left it on their return 
 home. They had renounced idolatry, received 
 books, and said they would go to thoir chief, 
 and persuade him also to receive and learn the 
 word of God. Puna and Mahamene wished to 
 detain them ; but as they promised not only to 
 

MERCIFUL PRESERVATION NATIVE SEMINARIES. 
 
 135 
 
 return to Rurutu, but to bring their chief and 
 as many natives as they could with them, they 
 let them depart. 
 
 " Another of the boat's crew informed us of 
 Auura's great diligence in teaching his country- 
 men to read, and of his going from house to 
 house, every night and morning, performing 
 family prayer for them." 
 
 (Signed by the Missionaries Threlkeld 
 and Williams.) 
 
 The visit of Auura and his companions was 
 a great event in the history of Raiatea, and their 
 return to Rurutu was the commencement of a 
 new era' in the annals of that little island. In 
 Raiatea the forlorn state of these adventurers 
 excited the deepest sympathy. Their personal 
 necessities were soon and bountifully relieved ; 
 but the compassion which the new Christians 
 there felt towards the poor, blind, perishing 
 countrymen of the strangers was not to be satis- 
 fied with less than offering some of their own- 
 selves to accompany them home to carry the 
 gospel thither, though it might be at the peril of 
 their lives. Hence originated the first attempt 
 to evangelize distant tribes by native converts, 
 unaided by European Missionaries. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Return to Huahine Native Seminaries Deputation 
 proceed to Raiatea Conference Ribbons of Bark 
 A. Borabora Convert Dungeons for Criminals To- 
 bacco, Sugar, and Salt prepared Tamatoa, King of 
 Raiatea Trial and Punishment for Tatooing Yoke- 
 fellows Pic-nic Parties Superstitious Respect for a 
 Scallop-shell Raiatean Mythology King formerly 
 worshipped Feat of Juggling Traditions Investi- 
 ture of the Kings Local Falls of Rain. 
 
 1822. OCT. 2. Yesterday evening, after taking a 
 cordial farewell of our new friends in Rurutu, 
 and each having planted a cocoa-nut, in the 
 enclosure before the chapel, in memorial of our 
 visit to this lovely little island, we re-embarked 
 for Huahine, with a favourable breeze, south- 
 east, which continued with us all day, and has 
 already brought us far towards our desired and 
 destined haven. 
 
 Oct. 8. We landed, on the 4th instant, 
 amidst thousands of welcomes from natives, 
 hastening in canoes to meet us, or standing in 
 crowds on the shore to receive us, at Huahine. 
 The vessel, in which we had performed this 
 voyage or rather these two voyages to the 
 Sandwich Islands and back hither (between six 
 and seven thousand miles) was scarcely sixty-one 
 tons burthen, and by no means in the best con- 
 dition. But the Lord led us all the way, and 
 mercifully hid from us some of our greatest 
 perils until He had delivered us from them. 
 Then, indeed, we trembled to look back upon 
 our very escapes, so signally was his good hand 
 discovered not when He stretched it forth, but 
 as He withdrew it, after having accomplished 
 our rescue. For example ; it was not till three 
 days after our arrival here, that one of our crew, 
 bathing and diving under our little bark, per- 
 ceived that the rudder had broken two of the 
 
 hinges or pivots 011 which it turned. Had the 
 third yielded we must have drifted ov* the 
 trackless ocean, till we had been carried to some 
 friendly port, wrecked on some hideous reef, 
 had foundered in the fathomless abyss, or per- 
 ished for want of food ; wood and water had 
 actually failed when we reached Rurutu and 
 our vessel might have been cast (as native 
 canoes on these seas occasionally have been) 
 upon some barbarous coast, with " all dead men" 
 on board. 
 
 Our friends at Huahine, both Europeans and 
 natives, have been overwhelmed with joy, as- 
 tonishment, and thankfulness, to learn the ex- 
 traordinary circumstances of our late unintended 
 visit to the Sandwich Islands, and those blessed 
 results, on which we may confidently calculate, 
 in the establishment of Christianity there. 
 
 Oct. 15. The people presented Captain Kent, 
 of the Mermaid, with what is called a feeding 
 here, in consideration of his attention to us, on 
 our late voyages with him to and from the North 
 Pacific. This feeding Consisted of six large 
 hogs, a great quantity of cocoa-nuts, some 
 bread-fruit, and other presents of native growth 
 or manufacture. 
 
 Oct. 16. At Mr. BarfPs we held a long con- 
 versation on the importance of establishing a 
 seminary in one of these islands for the educa- 
 tion of native youths, expressly for the Mission- 
 ary work, as there is likely to be a great demand 
 for such to carry the gospel to stations unvisited 
 yet by European Missionaries, and where indeed 
 the latter cannot be spared to settle. Four 
 promising boys, each about fourteen years of 
 age, were mentioned by Mr. Barff as suitable 
 candidates for such training, in which it was 
 especially deemed necessary that they should be 
 taught the English language. 
 
 Oct. 21. This day we sailed on board of a 
 schooner, belonging to Tamatoa, for Raiatea, 
 which we reached in safety, after an exceedingly 
 pleasant cruise, having the islands of the lee- 
 ward group, with their numerous motus, con- 
 tinually changing attitudes to our eye, as we 
 changed place, and viewed them from new 
 points, by morning, noon, and evening lights 
 and shadows, till the moon, rising from the 
 ocean as night came on, threw all the mildness 
 of her beauty over the scene. These volcanic 
 islands appear to have been, as it were, flung 
 upon the deep ; but the hand that moulded their 
 majestic forms by the agency of fire, and rooted 
 them in darkness, has, since the conflagrations 
 became extinct, been clothing them with ver- 
 dure, and crowning them with fruits, while sun 
 and stars have brought uncounted seasons ; 
 till now they sit upon the waters, and tower to 
 the heavens, among those mighty works of wis- 
 dom and goodness in which man, were he not 
 himself both evil and foolish, would at once ac- 
 knowledge and adore the eternal power and 
 godhead of the Creator. 
 
 Oct. 22. Messrs. Orsmond, Barff, and Bourne, 
 having arrived from Tahaa, and.all the Mission- 
 aries of the leeward group being present, we 
 held a solemn conference with them on the 
 various concerns of this station, especially on 
 
136 
 
 RIBBONS OF BARK TAMATOA, KING OF RAIATEA. 
 
 the removal of Mr. and Mrs. Ellis to the Sand- 
 wich Islands, and the establishment of two se- 
 minaries here, or at Huahine ; one for the edu- 
 cation of the children of the Missionaries, and 
 another for preparing natives themselves to go 
 forth as Missionaries to heathen lands, which 
 our brethren were too few to visit and care for 
 on the spot. It was unanimously decided that 
 Mr. and Mrs. Ellis should be appointed to the 
 new field of labour so providentially opened for 
 them, and they were accordingly invited to un- 
 dertake that charge by a letter, under the hands 
 of the Deputation and all their brother Mis- 
 sionaries. No final determination could be 
 adopted respecting the projected schools at 
 present. 
 
 After the close business of this day, we were 
 glad to refresh ourselves with an evening-walk 
 along the southern beach. The neatly con- 
 structed houses of the settlement, in this and 
 the contrary direction, are scattered amidst 
 trees arid plantations to the extent of two miles. 
 Two streams fall into the sea in this line, over 
 one of which a bridge, Avith wooden arches, has 
 been thrown. On every hand we remark in- 
 creasing evidences of enterprise and industry, 
 of peace and plenty, of social order and religious 
 principle. Observing on the bonnets of many 
 of the females bows of ribbon, of different tints 
 and curious patterns, some of which were ex- 
 ceedingly rich, we enquired how they had pro- 
 cured such ornaments, and were amusingly 
 surprised to hear that these gay articles were 
 nothing more than slips of the flexile inner bark 
 of the purau-tree, stained with various brilliant 
 colours ; and, moreover, that this discovery in 
 native manufactures was the happy thought of a 
 little girl at the school here, who had been re- 
 warded with a real English ribbon for her in- 
 genuity. 
 
 Mr. Orsmond mentioned a pleasing circum- 
 stance respecting an old man, of Borabora, 
 who, under the idolatrous system, had been a 
 famous priest, and enjoyed great wealth in land, 
 hogs, and all the produce of the soil, as well as 
 exercised corresponding influence by power and 
 terror over the minds of the superstitious people ; 
 the kings and chiefs themselves living in awe of 
 him. This man has heard the voice of Him 
 who said to Matthew, the publican, " Follow 
 me ;" and he rose up, forsook all, and followed 
 Jesus. In consequence of this, he is become 
 comparatively poor, and no more than an ordi- 
 nary person. Being asked, afterwards, whether 
 he did not repent of having embraced a religion 
 | which had cost him so much, he calmly replied, 
 " Oh, no ! while I was an idolater and a priest, 
 I could never lie down to sleep in peace. 1 was 
 always in fear of being robbed or murdered 
 before morning. Often have I awoke in the 
 night, trembling with horror ; and then I have 
 sprung up and run among the bushes to hide 
 myself, lest any one should come to kill me. 
 Now I go to rest without suspicion; I sleep 
 soundly, and never run into the bush for safety, 
 because I know no danger. I might lie on my 
 mat. till it rotted beneath me, before any one 
 would hurt me, by night or by day. I am 
 
 happy ; and therefore I do not repent of what I 
 have done." 
 
 Oct. 26. As we were walking along the slope 
 of the adjacent mountain, at the height of about 
 three hundred feet, we found two pits, fifteen 
 feet deep, each the width of a common draw- 
 well at the top, and widening downwards. AVe 
 were informed that these had been dug, as dun- 
 geons, for two refractory and profligate persons 
 till they should be brought to repentance. The 
 one was a woman, who had run away from her 
 husband, and got herself tatooed, contrary to 
 the law. When she was let down into this soli- 
 tary place she was told that she must remain 
 there till she asked forgiveness and pledged her- 
 self to return to her husband. She continued 
 contumacious for upwards of two days, when 
 some of the loose earth, from above, falling in 
 upon her, she was frightened, and thought it 
 must be a tia papau, orghost, that was coming to 
 torment her. She therefore made a desperate 
 effort, escaped from her confinement, and re- 
 turned home, well disposed to submit to her 
 offended partner, who received and forgave her. 
 The other culprit was the man who had tatooed 
 her, and he was kept in captivity till he mani- 
 fested satisfactory signs of contrition. The 
 sustenance of each had been a small portion of 
 bread-fruit and water while they were in du- 
 rance. 
 
 Around the dwellings and up the valleys there 
 are about a hundred and forty plantations, on 
 which tobacco, recently introduced, is cultivated. 
 A person named Scott, has come hither from 
 the colony of New South Wales, to instruct the 
 inhabitants in the art of growing and curing 
 this valuable article of commerce, as well as 
 boiling sugar and preparing salt from sea-water 
 on several of the coral motus off the shore. 
 The fences of the enclosures are of bamboo, 
 which thrives amazingly on this soil, overrun- 
 n ing the unbroken ground, and frequently 
 shooting to the height of from seventy to eighty 
 feet. 
 
 We are told that Tamatoa, the king of Raia- 
 tea, in his youth was sovereign also of Tahaa, 
 Borabora, and Huahine, not only possessing tin- 
 lands, as royal domains, but the absolute MM, 
 or government. Some years ago, a chief, called 
 Tapoa, made war upon him and conquered him ; 
 but with extraordinary magnanimity, left the 
 vanquished sovereign in possession of the lands; 
 usurping only for himself the government, 
 which he exercised till his death. Sine* then 
 Tamatoa has recovered his authority in this 
 island, but has given Huahine to the sister of 
 Pomare's widow and resigned his nominal sway 
 over Borabora and Tahaa to their respective 
 kings. Tamatoa is of the genuine royal blood, 
 which, from time immemorial, has supplied 
 princes to all these islands, both windward and 
 leeward. He is a personage of most imposing 
 presence, being six feet three inches high, and 
 amply proportioned : he has three brothers, of 
 equal stature and corpulence, named Tahitoi, 
 Taita, and Pahi. Since the gospel has been 
 received here a code of laws has been instituted, 
 whereby life, liberty, and property are secured 
 
TRIAL AND PUNISHMENT FOR TATOOING PIC-NIC PARTIES. 
 
 137 
 
 to all the people ; and neither chief nor king 
 can violate either of these. In lieu of the 
 power of spoiling his subjects, at his pleasure, 
 the king receives for himself and his family 
 three annual contributions of cocoa-nut oil in 
 January, of arrow-root in June, and of hogs in 
 October. The chiefs are paid their rents in 
 similar commodities. 
 
 Nov. 4. We were present at a court of justice, 
 at which the king took his seat beside his bro- 
 ther Pahi, who is the chief judge. The latter was 
 gorgeously attired in his official cap and robe of 
 feathers. On either hand of him were sixteen 
 local officers, who have, two and two, the civil 
 superintendence of the eight districts into which 
 the island is divided. Each of these, as the sym- 
 bol of authority, held in his hand a printed copy 
 of the laws, rolled up and inclosed in a joint of 
 bamboo. The jury consisted of six persons of 
 well-approved character. The principal cause, 
 to-day, was one in which eight men were charged 
 with having got some part or other of their bodies 
 tatooed. They all pleaded guilty, and were sen- 
 tenced according to circumstances; some lightly, 
 this being their first conviction ; but others, who 
 had been punished in vain before, Avere visited 
 more severely. One of the culprits confessed 
 that, on the very day when lie had completed 
 the task of his former punishment hard labour 
 on the public works he had gone to a cunning 
 artist and been tatooed again. The truth ap- 
 peared to be that neither men nor women of 
 licentious principles Avere to be deterred from 
 this vanity to which they are infatuatedly at- 
 tached by such penalties, being quite Avilling 
 to suffer them, from time to time, till the tatoo- 
 ing of their persons is completed according to 
 their taste. A neAv mode of visiting this 
 offence has, therefore, been adopted, Avhich is 
 more likely to be effectual in putting it doAvn, 
 namely, to scarify the tatooed parts, and make 
 foul blotches where elegant devices had been 
 pricked in. 
 
 This being the first Monday in the month the 
 Missionary prayer -meeting was held in the 
 afternoon, at Avhich about seven hundred per- 
 sons attended. On this day, likeAvise, every 
 month, the people throughout the Avhole settle- 
 ment divided themselves into bands, or compa- 
 nies, of ten or tAvelve families each, and hold a 
 feast together. These parties are formed for the 
 purpose of facilitating all kinds of common 
 labour, such as building houses, clearing and 
 planting land, &c. The natives are naturally 
 loquacious and fond of society, and it is found 
 that labour always goes on much more expedi- 
 tiously, as Avell as pleasantly, Avhere numbers 
 are thus made yoke-fellows "many hands," 
 according to the English proverb, " making light 
 Avork." The lazy, also, by this arrangement, 
 are compelled to bestir themselves, that they 
 may keep pace Avith the diligent \vith whom 
 they are linked. 
 
 In the evening AVC looked into several houses, 
 and found in each one of these festiA'e groups of 
 neighbours, from forty to fifty individuals, seated 
 round the room, the floor of Avhich Avas carpeted 
 Avith purau-leaves, on Avhich their baskets and 
 
 dishes of food Avere placed. The entertain- 
 ments are, literally pic-nic ones, each family 
 bringing their own contribution, Avhatever it be, 
 flesh or fruits, to the common stock, so that the 
 banquet is made Avith little expense or trouble 
 the provision Avhich Avould otherwise have served 
 for supper to a dozen families, in as many dAvel- 
 lings, being eaten by the same persons assembled 
 for social intercourse and innocent enjoyment 
 under one roof. At an eai'ly hour they retired 
 to their respective quarters, exhilarated, but not 
 inebriated, and lay doAvn in peace, after their 
 domestic devotions, without fear of nausea or 
 head-ache in the morning. We called at the 
 house of Pahi, Avhere the king and royal party 
 were regaling themselves on the same simple 
 fare as the humblest of their subjects, and need- 
 ing no stronger beverage than cocoa-nut Avater 
 to Avash down the temperate morsels, or excite 
 their animal spirits beyond that degree of cheer- 
 fulness Avhich is favourable to the true pleasures 
 of social intercourse. 
 
 Nov. 5. A small scallop-shell Avas brought to 
 us, found on the reefs, remarkable for nothing 
 in respect to beauty, shape, or magnitude, and 
 yet an object of no ordinary curiosity, since, in 
 former times, this species Avas an object of Avor- 
 ship. The slimy animal that inhabited it was 
 named tupe, and regarded Avith such reverence 
 by itsA'otaries that none durst hurt it on peril of 
 the seA-erest visitation of an offended deity. Nor 
 Avere its divine honours confined to the living ; 
 in the Po, the place of the dead, the god Oro 
 was represented as employing this shell, Avith its 
 indented edge, to scrape the flesh from the bones 
 of iieAvly deceased bodies, previous to their be- 
 ing converted into pure spirits by being deA'oured 
 by him, and aftenvards transformed by passing 
 through the laboratory of his cannibal stomach. 
 The great Po, or burying-place, not for Raiatea 
 only, but for the neighbouring islands, Avas here. 
 Adjacent to the Missionary settlement there is 
 a considerable lake, surrounded by trees, Avhich 
 from some unexplained peculiarity, appear flat 
 at top, presenting to the ey& a long and level 
 parade, on which the neAvly-formed spirits Avere 
 said to dance and feast together, till, in a sub- 
 sequent stage of their existence, they Avere con- 
 verted into cockroaches. 
 
 Tamatoa, the king of Raiatea, is noAv about 
 sixty-five years of age, and, as he is remarkably 
 Avell acquainted, not only Avith all the events and 
 circumstances of his own time, but Avith the 
 traditionary lore of these islands, AVC have col- 
 lected, in conversation Avith him, most of the 
 facts and fables of which the history and mytho- 
 logy of a barbarous people are necessarily com- 
 posed ; but the facts are so few, and the fables 
 so monstrous or so puerile, that we can add 
 little information on these subjects to Avhat has 
 been already recorded. He tells us that though 
 his countrymen had gods many, and lords many, 
 they had yet some indistinct notion of a God, 
 who was not made by any one as the rest had 
 been, and Avho was above them all. His name 
 Avas Taroa. He Avas the parent from Avhom all 
 men sprang : these were, in their vieAV, the 
 population of the islands known to them. He 
 
138 
 
 KING FORMERLY WORSHIPPED TRADITIONS. 
 
 was also believed to be the maker of the land, 
 and they thought he could destroy at pleasure 
 what he had made. This idea was probably 
 suggested to them (if not derived from Euro- 
 pean information) by the changes which they 
 observed in the coral formations around them. 
 He was represented as living in a shell, which 
 he cast from time to time, and as he did so the 
 world grew larger and larger, till it had reached 
 its full size. He is said to have made a woman, 
 whom he himself married, and lived with her 
 from island to island, assuming a different 
 form in every one, as though he were another 
 husband, till in each they had a family of chil- 
 dren, and thus peopled all the islands. 
 
 Tamatoa himself had been enrolled among 
 the gods. This impious ceremony, with the 
 particulars of which we must not pollute our 
 pages, took place at the principal marae here, 
 dedicated to Oro. As one of the divinities of 
 his subjects, therefore, the king was worshipped, 
 consulted as an oracle, and had sacrifices and 
 prayers offered to him. There is now, we trust, 
 good reason to believe that the same man is 
 become a humble, self-denying, and devoted 
 servant and disciple of the Lord Jesus Christ. 
 In what follows, we must be merely considered 
 as narrators. Tamatoa assures us that, during 
 the reign of idolatry, he has seen one of the 
 priests, when the fit of demoniac inspiration was 
 upon him, thrust his hand and arm up to the 
 shoulder in the solid ground. And though one 
 of these frantic hierophants could thus plunge 
 his arm into the earth as though it were water, 
 yet, if the paroxysm went off while it remained 
 there, he pretended that it required the strength 
 of several men to help him to withdraw it. When 
 this was done, the skin was found sound and 
 undiscoloured, notwithstanding the violent fric- 
 tion it had encountered. Tamatoa is of opi- 
 nion (notwithstanding the incredulity which 
 we evinced) that no deception was practised; 
 for the priest would perform this marvellous feat 
 on any spot of ground, where the people desired 
 him, while they stood around looking on, and 
 some vainly endeavoured to do the like ; which 
 indeed he himself could not achieve without his 
 " enchantments." Captain Henry (son of the 
 Missionary of that name at Eimeo), also states 
 that he has witnessed this prodigy of juggling 
 himself, without being able to detect the fraud. 
 The infuriated priest, on that occasion foamed 
 at the mouth, distorted his eye-balls, convulsed 
 his limbs, and uttered the most hideous shrieks 
 and bowlings. After he had seemingly buried 
 his arm, like a spear stuck suddenly in the 
 ground, he held it there for a considerable time ; 
 then, drawing it out uninjured, he rushed to- 
 wards the shore, and laying hold upon a large 
 canoe, which ordinarily required three or four 
 men to launch, he shoved it before him with 
 apparent ease, and sent it adrift. He afterwards 
 threw himself into the sea, wallowed about in 
 it, and kept his head under water for a long 
 time. When this act of the tragical pantomime 
 was finished, he sat among the waves, and de- 
 livered his prophecies in very figurative and hy- 
 perbolical langnage, at the same time sufficiently 
 
 ambigious to be fulfilled in one of two senses, 
 whatever might happen. 
 
 Captain Henry states that he was one day 
 sitting in a large house, where many persons 
 were assembled. At the opposite end of the 
 apartment a signal was given for a certain one 
 of the company to be put to death. The signal 
 was nothing more than a significant wink, or 
 downcast look, when the destined victim was 
 instantly murdered. Alarmed at this treachery 
 and violence, Captain Henry burst through the 
 rotten fence of the wall against which he was 
 sitting, and ran home as for his life. Soon after 
 he saw the body of the unfortunate man, borne 
 by the assassins past his father's house, bleeding 
 and marking the way with a line of gore, down 
 to the marae, where it was offered to " the abo- 
 mination" there worshipped. 
 
 There was a tradition here that the sky origi- 
 nally lay flat upon the face of the earth and 
 ocean, being held down by the legs of a huge 
 cuttle-fish. But, at a certain time, a man named 
 Maui dived to the bottom of the sea, and grap- 
 pling .with the monster, utterly dismembered 
 him ; whereupon the sky flew up, and expanded 
 into its beautiful convexity, resting on the 
 horizon, and having the vertical sun as its key- 
 stone. But Maui may have rendered his coun- 
 trymen a much less doubtful service, as he is said 
 to have .invented the ingenious mode of obtain- 
 ing fire by rubbing a grooved stick with a pointed 
 one, as formerly described. If BO, his name 
 must be considered as the most illustrious on 
 record, in this part of the globe, where, over thou- 
 sands and tens of thousands of square leagues, 
 no authentic account of warrior, legislator, or 
 patriot, can be found of earlier date than the 
 last generation. Indeed, there existed among the 
 people no form of writing, hieroglyphic, or mne- 
 monic (like the Peruvian quippos, or knots, and 
 the Sandwich Island ropes, for registering popu- 
 lation and taxes), but the traditions of past ages 
 were literally oral. Almost every chief had among 
 his dependents a priest, who learnt by heart from 
 his predecessor, and taught to his successor, all 
 the family anecdotes of his patron, and the 
 national events of his own times. These accu- 
 mulated memorials, some in prose and others in 
 verse, were occasionally rehearsed at feasts and 
 public assemblies, in .the most exact manner, 
 though frequently of great length, and embra- 
 cing a vast variety of heterogeneous narratives, 
 in which fiction and fact were inextricably 
 blended. Tamatoa himself is an eminent chro- 
 nicler in this way, and on a certain great 
 national occasion, not long ago, traced up his 
 own genealogy to Taroa. 
 
 When a new king was consecrated, by cere- 
 monies too filthy to be detailed, he was invested 
 with the metro or hereditary robe of royalty, of 
 net- work covered with red feathers, and to 
 which an additional lappet is annexed at the 
 accession of each sovereign. This splendid 
 train, which was wont to be wound about the 
 body, and flowed upon the ground, is twenty- 
 one feet in length, and six inches broad. The 
 needle by which the fabric was wrought is still 
 attached to it, and according to report no stitch 
 

 
 '.'.< 
 
VISIT TO OPOA PUBLIC FESTIVAL. 
 
 139 
 
 could be taken with it, but thunder was forth- 
 with heard in the heavens. The symbolical 
 marks, Avhich are apparent on the plumage 
 and texture, indicate that many hundreds of 
 human victims have been sacrificed, during 
 its gradual making and extension, when the 
 sundry monarchs, by whom it has been worn in 
 succession, wrapped themselves with its folds, 
 as their insignia of authority. This sacred 
 maro has, therefore, never been completed, nor 
 might have been, so long as the ancient system 
 continued, for it was intended to be lengthened 
 to the end of time, or at least to the end of em- 
 pire in the island. Hence, almost every hand- 
 breadth of the patchwork that composed it re- 
 presented a separate reign, and reminded the 
 national chroniclers of the prince's name, cha- 
 racter, achievements, and the main incidents of 
 his time ; this robe might be regarded as an 
 hieroglyphic tablet of the annals of Raiatea. 
 Tamatoa has cast off this relic of idolatry and 
 sent it, as another trophy of the gospel victories 
 here, to the Museum of the London Missionary 
 Society. 
 
 Nov. 24. We have just had a remai-kable in- 
 stance of the occasionally limited locality of 
 rains in these latitudes. At the settlement 
 there has not been a shower all day ; but on 
 the mountain-tops, immediately adjacent, such 
 floods have fallen that we can count twelve cas- 
 cades pouring down with great impetuosity and 
 in large volumes, over the rocks into the val- 
 leys, from heights of not less than three or four 
 hundred feet. 
 
 CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 Visit to Opoa, the chief Scat of ancient Idolatry Public 
 Festival Singular Appearance of the Feasters 
 Speeches Tea-drinking Breaking up of the Com- 
 pany Expulsion of an Idolater from the Church 
 Ingenious Scruple Den of the Kvil Spirit Strata- 
 Creatures of the Sea Romantic Tradition Confessions 
 of Infanticide Marriage of Aimata and Pomare of 
 " Huahine Confessions of a Sorcerer One Hundred 
 and Fifty -one Persons baptized. 
 
 1822. Nov. 30. We have just returned from a 
 visit to Opoa, the metropolis of idolatry, not in 
 Raiatea only but throughout all the South Pacific 
 Islands, within a compass of five hundred miles. 
 Hither, from every shore, human victims ready 
 slain were sent to be offered on the altar of Oro, 
 the god of war, whose principal image was wor- 
 shipped here with the most bloody and detest- 
 able rites. To describe the various maraes and 
 their appurtenances, the priests and their sorce- 
 ries, the sacrifices, feastings, and fightings of 
 the votaries, at this hideous rendezvous, would 
 only be to exhibit in aggravated language scenes 
 of disgusting horror, similar to those which have 
 too frequently perhaps already occupied our 
 pages. Opoa was also the residence of the 
 kings of this island, who, beside the preroga- 
 tives of royalty, enjoyed divine honours, and 
 were in fact living idols among the dead ones, 
 being deified at the time of their accession to 
 political supremacy here. In the latter charac- 
 ter we presume it was that these sovereigns 
 (who always took the name of Tamatoa) were 
 wont to receive presents from the kings and 
 
 chiefs of adjacent and distant islands, whose 
 gods were all considered tributary to the Oro of 
 Raiatea, and their princes owing homage to its 
 monarch, who was Oro's hereditary high-priest 
 as well as an independent divinity himself. 
 Happily nothing but the ruins of maraes re- 
 main, and Opoa, flourishing in all the unpruned 
 luxuriance of tropical vegetation, is one of the 
 loveliest and most peaceful spots in all these 
 regions of beauty and fertility. The population, 
 since the removal of the king and his family to 
 the Missionary station on the shore, having for- 
 saken their former haunts, this place, which for 
 ages scarcely knew quiet by day or by night, is 
 now a solitude. 
 
 Dec. 4. This day was celebrated as a public 
 festival by the inhabitants of the settlement. 
 The entertainment was prepared on the large 
 patu, or stone pier in the sea, commencing at 
 the length of a plank from the beach. On the 
 last occasion of the kind, about six months ago, 
 the company squatted on their hams according 
 to the ancient practice, except the members of 
 one family, who had provided a sofa, a table, 
 and knives and forks for themselves, to the 
 admiration, if not the envy, of all the rest. To 
 prompt the people to industry, and by industry 
 to increase their domestic comforts, the Mis- 
 sionaries at that time had strenuously recom- 
 mended that all who meant to join in partaking 
 the good fare at the next opportunity should, 
 if possible, supply themselves with the like ac- 
 commodations. And so cordially was the ad- 
 vice received, and so diligently acted upon, 
 that, though a thousand persons dined together 
 on this occasion, all were seated on sofas, chairs, 
 or stools, with convenient tables before them, 
 on which their provisions were decently set out, 
 and around which they enjoyed their social 
 meal in such a manner as had never been wit- 
 nessed before in their own or their fathers' 
 times. 
 
 Before day-break, the people began to make 
 the necessary arrangements. The rough coral 
 pavement of the patu was overlaid with fresh 
 grass, and an awning of native cloth was ex- 
 panded over the whole space to be occupied, so 
 as effectually to protect them from the fierce 
 rays of the sun. Before noon all things were 
 ready, and the guests had taken their places ; 
 where each family found their own food, prin- 
 cipally vegetable, and cooked in various ways. 
 A few brought baked hogs and fish. The tables 
 were covered with purau-matting, and native 
 cloth. The utensils upon them, as may be 
 imagined, were very miscellaneous. Those who 
 had plates, knives, forks, spoons, crockery, or 
 metal wares of any kind which could be used 
 in eating or drinking, exhibited all their tana 
 papa (foreign property), and handled the strange 
 things with more dexterity, but not with more 
 good humour than might have been expected, 
 where each was determined to do his best and 
 to be pleased with what his neighbours did. 
 
 A large space in the centre was set apart for 
 the Missionaries and the Deputation, Avhere a 
 table and chairs, with suitable covers, &c., were 
 very satisfactorily furnished under an awning 
 
 V 
 
140 
 
 RAIATEAN FASHIONS OF DRESS TEA-DRINKING. 
 
 for our accommodation. We never beheld a 
 more singular, nor indeed a more animating 
 spectacle, when the eye contemplated it, with 
 all the warm and grateful associations awakened 
 by it in the mind. We counted two hundred 
 and forty-one sofas, and about half as many 
 tables ; the latter abundantly loaded with the 
 rich provision which Nature throws from her 
 lap at the feet of her children in these remote 
 nurseries of those who may yet be considered in 
 their minority ; and where they have little more 
 to do than to gather up her bounty from the 
 ground, or, for healthful exercise, climb the 
 trees to pluck it. There they sat on every side 
 of us, men and women, with their boys and 
 girls, on the right hand and on the left, family 
 by family, so cheerful and orderly that it verily 
 did us good to look upon them, motley as ap- 
 peared their costume and their dinner services, 
 while they " did eat their meat with gladness, 
 and singleness of heart praising God." 
 
 All the people, young and old, rich and poor, 
 on these occasions, apparel themselves in their 
 best ; and we were not more surprised than 
 pleased to behold them, in general, so decently, 
 and, in many instances, so gracefully clad; 
 though, in others, the mongrel mixture of Euro- 
 pean and native habiliments, on the same shoul- 
 ders, was not a little whimsical. An a.-fd 
 chief, who was so wealthy as to possess both a 
 white shirt and a black coat, had put the former 
 over the latter, taking care that some of the 
 cloth should be seen at the bosom, and the laps 
 fall below the linen behind ; while an ample 
 roll of native cloth was wound about his body. 
 Some of the men had three tibutas (upper robes) 
 piled one upon another, and not a few women 
 seemed loaded with flowered and figured gar- 
 ments of native or English manufacture. Hats 
 of bark or rushes, neatly platted, were worn by 
 one sex, and bonnets of the same materials, 
 ornamented with silk or purau ribbons, curi- 
 ously coloured, by the other. 
 
 After dinner various chiefs and otlv 
 dn-sscd the company, in brief and spirited 
 appeals to their memory of the abominations of 
 past times, and to their gratitude for the glorious 
 and blessed changes which the gospel of Christ 
 had wrought among them. They compared 
 their present manner of feasting, their improved 
 dress, their purer enjoyments, their more cour- 
 teous behaviour, the cleanliness of their persons, 
 and the delicacy of their language in conversa- 
 tion, with their former gluttony, nakedness, 
 riot, brutality, filthy customs, and obscene talk. 
 One of the speakers observed, " At such a feast 
 as this a few years a^o none but kings, or great 
 chiefs, or strong men, could have got anything 
 good to eat ; the poor and the feeble, and the 
 lame, would have been trampled under foot, 
 and many of them killed in the quarrels and 
 battles that followed the gormandizing and 
 drunkenness." " This," said another, " is the 
 re ii, r n of Jehovah that was the reign of Satan. 
 Our kings might kill us for their pleasure, and 
 offer our carcases to the Evil Spirit; our priests 
 and our rulers delighted in shedding our blood. 
 Now, behold our persons are safe, our property 
 
 is our own, and we have no need to fly to the 
 mountains to hide ourselves, as we used to do 
 when a sacrifice was wanted for Oro, and durst 
 not come back to our homes till we heard that 
 a victim had been slain and carried to the 
 marae." 
 
 A shower of rain coming on in the afternoon, 
 the assembly broke up for an hour or two, but 
 rallied again in the evening upon the patu, to 
 drink tea or enjoy, as they, call it, pape maha- 
 nahana warm water. By the bye, warm tcater 
 seems to have been a luxury unknown in these 
 islands before the visits of Captain Cook. No 
 utensils for boiling were found among the 
 natives no such process was employed in their 
 cooking. An iron pot, when they had been 
 taught the use of it, was the most acceptable 
 present to a king or a queen, and the richest 
 booty that a thief could lay his hands upon, 
 when all were thieves by instinct, and had 
 scarcely an idea of dishonesty, or rather, had 
 none of honesty. The equipage for tea-drink- 
 ing was quite as heterogeneous as the dinner- 
 sen ices had been. Some had kettles, and 
 others had tea-pots; these could mana. 
 well together if, in addition, one could ; 
 cup, a second a saucer, and a third a porringer. 
 A few a few only had got tea, many had no 
 sugar; but every one had something whether 
 an ingredient or a utensil employed in pre- 
 paring or partaking this favourite refreshment. 
 A spoonful of tea, for example, was put into a 
 kettle full of water, and brewed into a beverage 
 MMV passable for such accommodating palates as 
 were waiting to taste it. One party heated 
 water in a frying-pan, and were happy to ex- 
 hibit so precious a sample of outlandish luxury 
 to their less fortunate neighbours. But the 
 principal supply was from a large vat, or 
 boiler, which was brought down to the shore 
 and filled with water slL'hth sweetened, but 
 without any infusion of the Chinese plant. 
 The variety of drinking-vessels was ludicrous 
 pots, plates, delf-ware, porringers, cans, j 
 and eAen bottles ; but principally eocoa-nut 
 shells, their own native and elegantly-sculptured 
 cups. More enjoyment, with less indecorum, 
 among so numerous a company of revellers, is 
 rarely to be found in this world, where a feast 
 and a fray are so often concomitants as to con- 
 veit the words thein-elves into synonymes in 
 certain regions even of civilized Europe. 
 
 When tea was over, and the company began 
 to retire, it was amusing to see the people set- 
 ting off to their homes in every direction, by 
 land and water these with their tables, sofas, 
 and chairs, hoisted upon their shoulders those 
 carrying away their goods on board of canoes, 
 or floating them on bamboo rafts, which they 
 paddled along the coast. The owners them- 
 selves, to their credit, were in general the 
 makers of their respective pieces of furniture, 
 from the elaborate sofa to the joint stool, with 
 the exception of the front pillars of the former, 
 which were handsomely turned by the only four 
 arti/ans in the island who Mere privileged to 
 use the lathe ; and, as these cunning craftsmen 
 received a bamboo of cocoa-nut oil (nearly 
 
AN IDOLATER EXPELLED THE CHURCH AN INGENIOUS SCRUPLE. 141 
 
 three quarts) for each pair of legs which they 
 furnished, they had carried on a profitable 
 trade during the last six months. 
 
 At nightfall nothing was to he seen but the 
 flitting or fixed lights in the scattered dwellings, 
 and nothing to be heard by the casual passen- 
 ger but the song of praise or the voice of prayer 
 in family circles at their evening devotions. 
 
 Dec. l>. At the evening meeting for the bap- 
 tized, an old man who had lately lost his wife 
 was charged with the heathen custom of having 
 presented an offering to her spirit, by placing 
 on the bed where she had usually reposed cer- 
 tain provisions for her use. The accused denied 
 the fact ; but two deacons of the church being 
 despatched to his house to examine the evidence 
 of his guilt, presently returned with two pieces 
 of sugar-cane, a fresh banana, and a cocoa-nut 
 shell with some of the water of the fruit in it. 
 The culprit still held out, and said that he had 
 set the food there for his cats ; but he was 
 silenced by one of his neighbours coolly asking, 
 whether it was usual for cats to eat sugar-cane 1 
 His fault, however, was directly brought home 
 to him by a witness, who deposed that he him- 
 self had gone into the forlorn widower's house 
 anil asked him for that very cocoa-nut, which 
 the latter refused, alleging that he had given it 
 to his d2ad wife, and could not take it back 
 from her. Thus convicted and confounded 
 before the whole assembly the old man acknow- 
 ledged his offence, and begged to be forgiven, 
 saying, " I loved my wife ; we had lived very 
 happily together ; and, as her spirit might per- 
 haps choose to come home again, I thought it 
 would be a grievous thing if she should find no 
 food prepared for her." Had he pleaded his 
 affection, in mitigation of his superstitious in- 
 firmity at first he would only have been reproved 
 and pardoned on expressing due penitence ; 
 but his contumacious denial, and perseverance 
 in wilful falsehood, had excited so much indig- 
 nation that it was proposed that he should be 
 excluded till he became repentant from the 
 same. There were about six hundred men and 
 women present, and these, by a vote so nearly 
 unanimous that there were scarcely ten excep- 
 tions, adopted and confirmed the sentence of 
 exclusion. These people are very jealous and 
 watchful against any revival of idolatry, and 
 visit every apostate symptom with the severest 
 penalty which their congregational discipline 
 will allow. 
 
 Dec. 7. Some persons were found guilty be- 
 fore the local tribunal, this morning, of having 
 killed a wild hog in the mountains, which they 
 appropriated to their own use. As these ani- 
 mals, ferce naturce, are royal game, each of the 
 poachers was adjudged to make five hundred 
 fathoms of twine, towards the manufacture of a 
 public fishing-net, for the benefit of the whole 
 settlement. At the time of passing it, this sen- 
 tence seemed wise and equitable ; but one of the 
 chiefs started a difficulty which could not in an 
 instiint be disposed of by unsophisticated minds, 
 only just ceasing to do evil and learning to do 
 well. " Would it be right," said he, "to eat 
 fish which had been caught in a net made by 
 
 men who had broken the law 1 ?" Such ques- 
 tions (and such are frequently asked of the 
 Missionaries) may be deemed trifling and even 
 foolish by superficial reasoners ; but, in the cir- 
 cumstances of these converts from a system of 
 moral imposture to a pure faith, they discover 
 awakened intellect as well as genuine conscien- 
 tiousness ; and it is only by thus feeling their 
 way with the most delicate application of their 
 best faculties, that they can arrive at the whole 
 truth*bii any point of doctrine or practice. 
 
 Dec. 9. We visited several maraes on the 
 northern side of the harbour, accompanied by an 
 old man named Hopo, who though a professed, 
 and we would hope, a real Christian, has an ima- 
 gination haunted with many superstitious ter- 
 rors connected with the idolatry under which he 
 grew grey, and which, though the spirit be wil- 
 ling, the flesh is too weak to shake off entirely. 
 At the extreme western point there is a vast pro- 
 jecting precipice, to the foot of which the sea 
 flows. Up this steep eminence the spirits of 
 the departed were said to climb on their way to 
 the Po, and Hopo says he has often seen them 
 ascending, both men and women. The Po is a 
 mysterious and unexplored cavern at the top of 
 a neighbouring mountain, probably a volcanic 
 crater, communicating, by subterranean pas- 
 sages, with a cave on the coast, which was 
 shown us to-day, and the aperture to which is 
 so sinull that a child of two years could scarcely 
 creep into it. Hopo told us that this was the 
 den of the varua mo, or Evil Spirit, who t "sprang 
 out of it on careless passengers, and dragged 
 them into its darkest recesses to devour them. 
 The whole neighbourhood was so awful to his 
 feelings that he would not accompany us to the 
 ruins of an adjacent marae, where multitudes 
 of the corpses of combatants slain in battle 
 had been either buried or left to rot above 
 ground. Many fragments of skeletons were still 
 mouldering around this dilapidated temple of 
 the god of war. Mr. Tyerman having brought 
 away a skull, when we overtook Hopo he cried 
 out with horror, Tia papau ! the term by 
 which they equally designate any relic of the 
 human frame, or the spirit itself that which 
 survives death. The old man could not be 
 prevailed upon to come near the frightful ob- 
 ject ; and, when we had to ford a stream which 
 interrupted our path, Mr. Tyerman's servant 
 would not carry him across till he had laid it 
 out of his hand. He found a boy, however, 
 who carried it over after him at the end of a 
 long stick. In passing several houses, men, 
 women and children, were all alarmed, and ex- 
 claimed, " Tia papau !" So difficult is it to 
 eradicate from the mind impressions which 
 have " grown with our growth, and strength- 
 ened with our strength." Having stopped at 
 a neighbouring spring which spread into a 
 pool, and Mr. T. having taken some water into 
 the scull to cleanse it from the earth within the 
 crannies, several natives observed the water 
 dropping from it upon the ground, and, judg- 
 ing whence it had been drawn, they exclaimed, 
 in lamentable tones, " Uae net ! alas, our bath 
 is polluted! our bath is polluted !" 
 
142 
 
 CREATURES OF THE SEA ROMANTIC TRADITION. 
 
 At the bottom of the great Po, which is a ca- 
 vern in the highest mountain of Raiatea, there is 
 said to reside a most savage fiend, called Taih6, 
 an ancient king who was exceedingly cruel to his 
 subjects, and hated accordingly by them. One 
 day he resolved to descend into this cave, and 
 search out its secrets. Accordingly, taking with 
 him his principal chiefs, they at his request, by 
 a fastening round his body, let him down into 
 the abyss ; it being agreed that when he pulled 
 a small string which was connected with the 
 stronger they should instantly draw him up 
 again. But, when the tyrant had reached firm 
 ground below, it occurred to them that now 
 they had a very ready way of getting rid of him. 
 When, therefore, they felt him pull the string, 
 they all let go the rope, and ran off, leaving 
 him to his reflections ; amidst which, escape 
 being impossible, he perished by hunger. 
 
 Dec. 10. For several days past, the queen 
 has been busily employed in weeding the ground 
 which the king has in cultivation ; the royal 
 family being as industrious as any other in the 
 usual occupations of life. Tamatoa himself al- 
 ways prepares, with his own hands, the cocoa- 
 nut oil which he subscribes to the Missionary 
 fund, and he glories in this, saying, that it is 
 his delight to do something for the cause of God, 
 and towards the conversion of those who are 
 still heathen. 
 
 Dec. 14. In the afternoon, accompanied by 
 Messrs. Threlkeld and Williams, we went to 
 examine the reef opposite to the settlement. 
 It is about a quarter of a mile broad, and on the 
 land-side not very deep, but perilously pre- 
 cipitous towards the ocean. The surface, which 
 is nearly level with the water, is overgrown with 
 the stems and ramifications of corals, forming 
 forests and labyrinths to the eye, well-peopled 
 with echini, crabs, cowries, and shell-fish, of 
 the multiform kinds usually found on these 
 shores a motley and silent community, that 
 lead their harmless lives in those enjoyments of 
 which an existence half animal and naif vege- 
 table can participate, provided out of the inex- 
 haustible resources of that Providence whose 
 bounty fills " this great and wide sea," with 
 the tokens of wisdom and might, not less " mar- 
 vellous in our eyes " than the evidences of his 
 eternal power displayed in the heavens when 
 they declare his glory, and on the earth when 
 " He crowneth the year with his goodness." 
 
 There is a species of echinus on this reef of 
 which the natives are much afraid the spines, 
 or rather stings, which are very sharp, occa- 
 sioning exquisitely acute pain when inadvert- 
 ently touched. These weapons of defence are 
 curious microscopical objects, being singularly 
 serrated along the edges, like shark's teeth. 
 The shell is of a rich velvet- black, hemispheri- 
 cal in form, with radiated spines, diverging in 
 all directions, to protect the helpless inhabitant 
 against its enemies. In the water these crea- 
 tures, with various others of the urchin-family, 
 are remarkably beautiful. l 
 
 Here, also, is that huge, unshapely, black or 
 brown slug, beche de mer, (here called, buhe, 
 such as are found 011 the coasts of the Sand- 
 
 wich Islands, from six to seven inches long, and 
 five to six broad. It is caught in vast quanti- 
 ties, and not only regarded as a great delicacy 
 by the natives, but, being cured, has become a 
 valuable article of commerce to the China mar- 
 ket, whither it is carried from many insular 
 coasts of the Pacific, by American ships. One 
 of these disgusting masses of morbid matter, 
 endued with sensation, was taken into our 
 boat ; being wounded, the dying animal pro- 
 truded all its entrails at the tail end, leaving the 
 apparent body a mere thick skin. We have 
 seen a number of lads fill three canoes in tno 
 hours with these sea-snails. 
 
 The natives have a romantic tradition con- 
 cerning this reef that it is the back-bone of 
 the giant Honoura, who wa so tall that his 
 head glittered with the stars as they passed over 
 it at night. When he came hither from Tahiti, 
 his birth-place, he set one foot on the neigh- 
 bouring island of Taiarabu, and with one step 
 set the other on Raiatea. At his death his skele- 
 ton was cast into the sea, and the various bones 
 were converted into coral rocks. From the 
 reef we visited a beautiful little motu to the 
 north, not more than a quarter of a mile in 
 circumference a fairy paradise to look upon, 
 being wholly overrun with the raan 
 an elegant and odorous plant, now in full 
 bloom, and bearing profuse clusters of flowers, 
 thickly powdered with farina, which the people 
 were wont to employ as a perfume. Flowers 
 and scents, indeed, in their days of profligacy, 
 were much used among them to attract favour ; 
 the latter are now regarded with aversion, and 
 the former have lost their hieroglyphic mean- 
 ings. When presented by persons of different 
 sexes, according as they were accepted, re- 
 jected, or interchanged, the parties understood 
 each other's minds. When the blossom was 
 torn in two by a lover and his mistress, and 
 each retained one half, it was a pledge of reci- 
 procal fidelity till these parts should unite again 
 an impossible conjunction of the petals, sig- 
 nifying an impossible separation of their hearts. 
 Dec. 19. This evening, at the prayer-meeting 
 of a 'select association of females, principally 
 the wives and daughters of chiefs, including the 
 queen, an inquiry was made whether any of 
 them, when under the infuriating influence of 
 idolatry, had destroyed their children. Six of 
 those present acknowledged that they had re- 
 spectively killed from one to six of their pro- 
 geny ; a seventh said that she had never 
 strangled a babe of her own, but many for 
 other women. Being asked how she could find 
 in her heart to do so, she answered that it then 
 was her business, and she was hired to do it. 
 Among the rest, one of the mothers before us 
 said that she had destroyed her infant because 
 she was nursing one of the royal family ; an- 
 other, because she did not like the encum- 
 brance ; and several, because they wished to be 
 at liberty to leave their husbands when they 
 were tired of them ; for married couples who 
 kept their offspring generally remained toge- 
 ther for life, unless some violent cause of quar- 
 rel arose, and compelled them to part. It was 
 
MARRIAGE OF AIMATA AND POMARE. 
 
 143 
 
 acknowledged, also, that women disposed to gad 
 about, and live after their own inclinations, 
 thought that to suckle children impaired their 
 comeliness, and made them look old too soon. 
 Those present (like others with whom we have 
 conversed elsewhere) declared that they often 
 seem to have their murdered children before 
 their eyes ; and their own wickedness appears so 
 great that they sometimes think it cannot be 
 pardoned. But then, again, they have heard 
 that the blood of Jesus Christ cleanseth from all 
 sin, and this preserves them from falling into 
 despair. These, with one exception, were all 
 young women, apparently from twenty-five to 
 thirty years of age ( They spoke with great 
 humility, and, we had reason to believe, with 
 sincere contrition, in respect to these sins of 
 their heathen days ; but their hearts and eyes 
 overflowed with gratitude while they acknow- 
 ledged the mercy of God in sending his faith- 
 ful servants, and his word, to turn them from 
 their evil ways, and show them the path of life. 
 Dec. 20. "We received a letter from Mr. Ellis, 
 at Huahine, giving an account of the nuptials 
 of Aimata, daughter of the late sovereign of 
 Tahiti, and a son of Tapoa, the former con- 
 queror of the Leeward Islands, whom as an 
 orphan, Pomare adopted, and gave him his own 
 name. The youth is sixteen years old, and his 
 bride fourteen. The parties met in the pre- 
 sence of their relatives, and, being mutually 
 pleased, were forthwith betrothed to each other. 
 The marriage was solemnized on "Wednesday 
 last (two days ago), at twelve o'clock at noon, 
 in the large place of worship at Apootava. The 
 spectacle, we are informed, was remarkably im- 
 posing and novel, both to Europeans and na- 
 tives. The relatives of the youthful pair, the 
 chief? from Tahiti, and those of Huahine, with 
 Fenuapeho, king of Tahaa, took their station 
 within the area before the pulpit on the one 
 hand ; and the queen, at the head of her train 
 of females of rank, stood on the other. Tama- 
 toa, King of Raiatea, Aimata and Pomare (the 
 bride and bridegroom), and the Missionaries, 
 were placed between these groups, immediately 
 in front of the communion-table. The space 
 within which the ceremony was performed was 
 surrounded by the hue raatiras, or yeomanry 
 (the land-owners), who were marshaled three 
 deep, to the number of a hundred and fifty. 
 These, in honour of the occasion, appeared in 
 their native war-dresses fine, white-fringed 
 matting wound about the loins, with a robe of 
 the same, thrown, broad and graceful, over the 
 shoulders, and fastened across the breast. 
 Each man rested on his spear of aito-wood, 
 which he bore as a sign of the rank which he 
 held in the state. Happily this exploded in- 
 strument of slaughter has now no other use 
 than to adorn the triumphs of peace. The two 
 principal raatiras were distinguished by their 
 ancient helmets, superbly covered with red 
 feathers, and surmounted with the tails of tropic- 
 birds. The' picturesque costume and stately 
 carriage of these now holiday soldiers, thus sup- 
 porting the dignity of their hereditary chiefs, 
 and their royal visitors, added singular interest 
 
 to the scene. The two kings, the queen, and 
 all the members of their respective families, 
 were clothed in the English style ; the females 
 having on white robes, with pink or scarlet 
 shawls and scarfs, which produced a striking 
 contrast to the quaint array of the native war- 
 riors ranged behind them. All present ap- 
 peared very attentive and devout during the 
 service, and Tamatoa, the venerable king of 
 Raiatea, grandfather to the bride, more than 
 once dropped a tear, as he waited to give her 
 away to her future partner ; but it was the tear 
 of joy, for young Pomare was Aimata's own 
 choice, and there was every prospect (accord- 
 ing to human views) of their union being a 
 happy one. At the close of the solemnity in 
 the chapel, the royal parties, escorted by the 
 raatiras, amidst discharges of musketry and 
 canon, returned to the house of Maeore, where 
 a plentiful feast was prepared. 
 
 Dec. 21. Tamatoa and his family spent the 
 evening with us. Faita, one of the king's 
 brothers, who had formerly been a reputed 
 sorcerer, very frankly acknowledged that his 
 arts were deceitful, for they deceived and dis- 
 appointed himself whenever he put them to the 
 proof. There was, on one occasion, a man who 
 had given him mortal offence, and whom, 
 therefore, he determined to conjure to death. 
 Accordingly he enclosed (as the practice was) 
 his own house with a fence all round, except at 
 one point, where he left a narrow opening. He 
 then swept the floor, arranged the furniture, 
 hung the walls Avith cloth and garments of the 
 finest texture, and adorned the whole with 
 shells, flowers, and every toy or gewgaw which 
 he thought could make it gay and attractive to 
 the tutelar divinity, whose image he placed 
 upon a stone in the midst, and prayed to it, 
 day and night, saying, " Goto that man's house 
 and kill him." It was the rule for the sorcerer 
 to remain thus praying, and fasting all the 
 while, at least five days, when the object of his 
 enmity was to die ; if not, it was plain that one 
 of the anti-sorcerers (of whom we have formerly 
 spoken) had been busy counteracting his en- 
 chantments and imprecations. But Taita grew 
 so thirsty and impatient, at the end of the third 
 day, that he broke the spell himself, by secretly 
 stealing out to a spring, and drinking some 
 water. He felt that all was spoiled by this in- 
 discreet indulgence, and abandoned the pro- 
 cess. These conjurors, he is now convinced, 
 were, like himself, either dupes of their own 
 silly craft, or arrant knaves, who, if they did 
 not murder by surer weapons than their charms, 
 availed themselves of incidental evils, such as 
 contagious disorders, which they pretended that 
 they had brought upon their countrymen, or 
 had removed at their pleasure, in order to main- 
 tain a wicked influence over a credulous people. 
 
 Dec. 22. On this Sabbath a hundred and fifty- 
 one persons, of both sexes, and various ages, 
 including parents and their children, in families, 
 were baptized by the Missionaries Williams and 
 Threlkeld. The services on this occasion were 
 very solemn, and a deep sense of the power of 
 Christ rested uj-on his church here, while so 
 
144 
 
 ARRIVAL AT TAHAA AN EX-HIGH PRIEST. 
 
 goodly a company was added to its members. 
 In the evening we took an affectionate leave of 
 our Christian brethren and sisters gathered from 
 among the heathen, as well as their excellent 
 teachers, by whom we have been hospitably eii- 
 tertaiiied. 
 
 CHAPTER XXYI. 
 
 Deputation arrive at Tahaa Appearance of the Natives 
 
 Public Religious Services An Ex-high-priest 
 Battle and Reconciliation between Fenuapeho and 
 Tamatoa An old Custom Description of Tahaa 
 Extraordinary Rock. Religious Address by the King 
 
 Equality of Justice Marriage in former Times- 
 Remarkable Coral-reef Coast-indentations Motus 
 Ants Large Draught of Fishes Thievish Instinct of 
 Hogs Haptism of One Hundred and Ninety-eight 
 IVi ~ous Proper Names Punishment for scandalous 
 Crimes. 
 
 DEC. 23. We left Raiatea in a boat, at eight 
 o'clock in the morning, and before noon were 
 landed at the Missionary station in Tahaa, where 
 Mr. Bourne resides, and has assembled round 
 him a considerable number of native dwellings. 
 For himself he has built a commodious house 
 a palace for this small island sixty feet long, 
 containing a double suite of rooms, seven in all, 
 with a handsome veranda in front, commanding 
 a most enchanting view of Raiatea across the 
 smooth lagoon, and Huahine, more distant, 
 towering in mountain grandeur from the deep, 
 and breathing, it might seem, the atmosphere 
 of the upper sky, so aerial are the eminences 
 and so exquisitely harmonizing with the blue 
 firmament and white clouds that surround them. 
 Several pretty villages adjacent to the Mission- 
 ary's abode adorn the openings between the 
 steep hills, that come down almost to the beach. 
 A patu or pier, of huge unwrought stones, has 
 been built to facilitate the landing of boats and 
 canoes here, as in other islands which we have 
 visited. This connects with another structure of 
 the same kind, crossing a small arm of the sea, 
 and forming a chain of communication with the 
 various groups of houses scattered along the 
 strand. The present place of worship is in the 
 obsolete native style purau-stakes supporting 
 a long roof; but a new square pier is now in 
 the course of being laid down in shoal water, 
 which reaches a hundred and forty feet in 
 length beyond the shore ; and on this stable 
 foundation, according to the favourite practice 
 in ether places, a substantial chapel, well walled 
 and plastered, is to be erected with all conve- 
 nient despatch. 
 
 We were much struck with the personal ap- 
 pearance and dress of the natives of Tahaa, in 
 which they seem superior to all their neighbours. 
 They were assembled, indeed, in their best attire 
 to welcome us, in the chapel, when their coun- 
 tenances not only expressed unfeigned pleasure 
 on beholding us as their visitors, but shewed 
 remarkable signs of health, intelligence and 
 food-nature. 
 
 Dec. 29. At the public services four hundred 
 adults and two hundred children were computi-d 
 to be present, amounting to nearly the whole 
 
 population of the district. Nothing is seen 
 throughout this neighbourhood, from dawn till 
 nightfall, unbecoming of Christian conduct, on 
 the Sabbath. Young and old appear, at least, 
 and we doubt not many of them are, " in the 
 spirit on the Lord's day." All go to and return 
 from the house of prayer, quietly, seriously, and 
 yet cheerfully. In their dwellings they read 
 and sing, teach their children, conduct their 
 family devotions, and enjoy their temperate 
 meals which have been prepared 011 the Satur- 
 day. 
 
 1823. Jan. 2. We have had a long conversa- 
 tion with Faaridi, who was formerly the high- 
 priest of Oro, in this island, but now appears to 
 be a genuine convert to Christianity. He is 
 himself persuaded that he was, in some way 
 which he cannot explain or account for, actually 
 possessed of an evil spirit, which used to come 
 upon him unexpectedly, without any excitement 
 of imagination in himself, or voluntary assump- 
 tion of prophetic phrenzy to deceive others. 
 He affirms that frequently, while sitting, in 
 perfect composure, the foul tiend has fallen 
 upon him like a dead weight upon his neck, 
 under which he sunk to the ground, and writhed 
 and wallowed there with horrible agony, till the 
 foam thickened about his mouth, and words, 
 unpremeditated by him, but expressive of in- 
 fernal sentiments forced into his mind, broke 
 from his lips. These were caught up, l>\ the 
 superstitious throngs that gathered round him, 
 as inspired oracles ; and life, death war, peace 
 whatever happened to be the subject of his 
 ravings were determined by these. On such 
 occasions he could get for himself almost any 
 thing he desired, and accumulated no little 
 wealth by demanding hogs, cloth, and other 
 property, as the price of his counsel, or at the 
 peril of his malediction. 
 
 Wlu-ii Tamatoa, king of Raiatea, to whom 
 Fenuapeho, king of Tahaa, was tributary, had 
 overthrown idolatry at its head-quarters, Opoa, 
 and thence commanded its abolition throughout 
 all his dominions and dependencies he (Faari- 
 di) stirred up the king and people hereto resist 
 the decree, and fight for the altars and divini- 
 ties of their fathers, not on their native soil 
 only, if that should be needful, but to strike a 
 bold blow and at once join the malcontents who 
 yet clave to the old system in Raiatea, which 
 island he might happily conquer for himself in 
 such an holy war. Accordingly Fenuapeho, with 
 his followers, promptly embarked, landed before 
 Tamatoa was aware, and, being reinforced by 
 insurgents upon the spot, presented a formidable 
 front of battle. Tamatoa, however, soon col- 
 lected a band of heroes. " Few, but undis- 
 mayed," they met Fenuapeho, with his far su- 
 perior numbers, eager for blood and Hushed 
 with the assurance of an easy victory. But the 
 conflict had scarcely begun, when the main body 
 of the idolaters were seized with panic and fled 
 on every hand. Fenuapeho, with his stout ad- 
 herents, notwithstanding this fearful p 
 maintained his ground, but at length was com- 
 pelled to retreat. Being pursued and taken 
 prisoner he was brought into the presence of 
 
AN OLD CUSTOM DESCRIPTION OF TAHAA. 
 
 145 
 
 Tamatoa, before whom appearing 1 , not as an 
 ordinary foe but as a rebel, he expected to re- 
 ceive instant death at his hand. But when he 
 offered his naked breast to Tamatoa's spear, the 
 king of Raiatea nobly bade him live ; and thus, 
 by his merciful conduct towards the vanquished, 
 taught them such lessons of Christianity that the 
 king, the chiefs, and the people of Tahaa readily 
 forsook their gods, whom they had proved to be 
 impotent against his God. Fenuapeho being 
 restored to his little kingdom, by the generosity 
 of his conqueror, not only nominally embraced 
 the gospel, but, ever since his conversion, has 
 been its ardent and consistent advocate and 
 promoter. One of the first fruits of his new 
 profession was a striking evidence of its sincerity, 
 for he established a Missionary Society among 
 his subjects, who, though not exceeding eight 
 hundred, of all ages, have raised contributions, 
 in produce, to the annual value of seventy 
 pounds sterling. Faaridi, astonished at the 
 victory obtained by Tamatoa, was equally con- 
 vinced, with the latter, of the irresistible power 
 of the God of the Christians. Nor was he less 
 affected by a sense of his mercy (an attribute of 
 Deity never known before in these parts) in the 
 clemency shewn by the king of Raiatea, when 
 he had his enemies at his feet and might have 
 utterly extirpated them. He, therefore, aban- 
 doned Oro and acknowledged Jehovah ; nor do 
 we learn that he has, since then, acted other- 
 Avise than became a true worshipper of the only 
 true God. 
 
 Jan. 7. An old custom one of the very few 
 good ones which have survived the wreck of 
 heathenism was acted upon a few days ago. 
 A man, of low rank, sent a great black hog 
 through the district, with an intimation to all 
 whom it might concern, that he wanted thirty- 
 six fathoms of cloth. The carcase w:is carried 
 from house to house, but no one would receive 
 it, nor could any company of neighbours be per- 
 suaded to take the bait, tempting as it was, the 
 practice being, in such a case, that whosoever 
 tastes of the flesh is bound to do his proportion 
 of the work, or furnish his quota of the commo- 
 dity, requii'ed. Undiscouraged by his ill luck, 
 and determined to try all fair means of obtain- 
 ing his object, the owner forwarded his pig to 
 the king, who not being at home at the time, 
 the queen received it and ordered it to be cookod. 
 A number of women, who had themselves re- 
 jected the overture, hearing of her majesty's 
 acceptance of it, and knowing that she must 
 manufacture the whole quantity of cloth with 
 her own hands unless voluntary assistance were 
 given, ctroha'd her, that is, they had compassion 
 upon her, which they shewed, first, by going to 
 her and partaking of the dressed hog, and then 
 by making each a portion of the quantity de- 
 manded, which was thus soon completed and 
 sent to the poor man's house. 
 
 In the evening we attended the meeting of 
 the candidates for baptism, of whom there are a 
 hundred and thirty-six, men and women. 'We 
 have frequently been struck with the native 
 figures of speech used by these islanders in their 
 exhortations to one another, as well as in their 
 
 prayers. One said, on a late occasion, " If we 
 do not acknowledge God in the bananas, which 
 furnish so much delicious food to our mouths, 
 they will appear in judgment against us for our 
 ingratitude." Another remarked, " Let us not 
 resemble the bamboo, which has a smooth and 
 polished rind but is hollow within ; let us not 
 resemble the raau faro, (a species of palm) 
 which is hard and solid on the outside but rot- 
 ten at heart ; let us not resemble the cocoa-nut 
 tree, which grows quickly but soon decays ; but 
 let us resemble the ati and the miro, and the 
 pit i'(t u trees, which have not only a sound ap- 
 pearance but are firm and solid throughout." 
 
 Jan. 15. We have just concluded a tour of 
 this island during the past week. In general 
 features, both of sublimity and loveliness, Tahaa 
 appears so much akin, if the phrase may be 
 allowed, to her beauteous sisters which have 
 been already delineated, that we need not dwell 
 on any topographical particulars. 
 
 The inhabitants of Tahaa were esteemed 
 among the bravest and the fiercest warriors of 
 the west, but, from their proximity, were espe- 
 cially the terror of their neighbours the Raia- 
 teans. At the head of a bay, called Taata-luai, 
 a singular rock was pointed out to us, the 
 surface of which exhibits an inclined plane, 
 between four and five hundred feet in ascent, 
 at an angle of about 45 degrees. Here the youth 
 of Tahaa used to exercise their limbs and their 
 breath by running, at full stretch, from the bot- 
 tom to the top without stumbling, stopping, or 
 touching anything except the ground with their 
 feet. Those who could accomplish this were 
 reckoned first-rate men for the feast or the fray. 
 Champions from other islands frequently came 
 hither to vie with the natives in performing the 
 same feat, though few succeeded. Several of 
 our native boat's company tried the experiment, 
 but, though active able-bodied men, there was 
 only one who could scale two-thirds of the 
 elevation without having recourse to his hands. 
 The rock itself, in a geological view, is the 
 greatest curiosity of the kind that we have seen 
 for a long time. It is an agglomeration of 
 basaltic columns, of different shapes arid dimen- 
 sions, some triangular, others four-sided. The 
 shafts, which are about twenty feet long, all lie 
 horizontally, and being exposed at one end, 
 towards the valley, it is manifest that they are 
 fragments which have probably been disrupted 
 from the superior mountain, and, having slidden 
 down the slope, remained in bulk at its base 
 like a mass of sculptured ruins dislodged from 
 the cornice of an ancient temple, whose walls, 
 though dilapidated, still stand, in defiance of 
 earthquake, war, and wasting elements time's 
 ministers of destruction. 
 
 Jan. 17. At the meeting of the baptized, seve- 
 ral addresses were delivered by the natives. 
 That by the king was worthy of a Christian pa- 
 triarch, the character which Fenuapeho now 
 nobly sustains among his willing and affection- 
 ate subjects. He warned them against resting 
 in forms and professions of godliness, telling 
 them that they had now the outside of religion 
 the Sabbath, the Scriptures, the ministry, 
 
 L 
 
14(5 REMARKABLE CORAL-REEFSTRENGTH AND INSTINCT OF ANTS. 
 
 baptism, and the sacrament but these, how- 
 erer excellent, would be of no avail unless they 
 had a new heart and a right spirit within them. 
 This prince is a faithful hut stern dispenser of 
 justice. His own wife and one of his daughters, 
 on two several occasions, having offended iu a 
 manner not to be passed over without flagrant 
 partiality in their favour, were sentenced to do 
 the usual portion of labour on the pier, and no 
 person was allowed to help either of them to 
 complete her task. In highly civilised society 
 discreet statesmen may question the wisdom of 
 degrading exalted personages, when they do 
 wrong, by condemning them to vulgar punish- 
 ments, but in the transition-state of manners 
 which exists here, both the equity and the expe- 
 dience of undiscriminating policy may be vindi- 
 cated on legitimate grounds. 
 
 The marriages of the common people, in 
 former days, were simple compacts between the 
 parties to live together as long as it suited their 
 convenience or their caprice. But thefeia niaua, 
 the order of kings and head-chiefs, celebrated 
 their nuptials with extraordinary rites. When 
 one of these high and mighty ones had chosen 
 a wifo hi; went and stood before the marae, 
 while the woman cut down some sugar-canes 
 which she brought and laid at his feet. The 
 mother of the bride thru cut her own person 
 cruelly with a shark's tooth, and, having iilled 
 a cocoa-nut shell basin with the blood which 
 flowed from her wounds, she presented it to the 
 bridegroom, who immediately threw both it and 
 the sugar-canes from him, and the latter being 
 considered sacred, nobody was allowed to eat 
 them. A hog was then slaughtered, and a feast 
 concluded the ceremony. Polygamy was com- 
 mon in these islands among those who could 
 support the expense of it. The present King 
 of Tahaa had four wives; old Manimani, of 
 Tahiti, had upwards of thirty. This practice is 
 now utterly abolished. 
 
 The islands of Tahaa and Raiatea lie within 
 the enclosure of the same reef, in which there 
 are only a few narrow openings that will admit 
 the passage of large vessels. The water within 
 this rocky circumvallation is generally shallow, 
 af lord ing good anchorage ; without, the depth 
 is unfathomable, The reef is from forty to fifty 
 yards in breadth, and stands little above the 
 level of the sea, of which the breakers are con- 
 tinually foaming upon it. This amazing mole 
 is one mass of dead coral as the material of 
 which it is composed is called when the insects 
 that wrought it have finished their labours, and 
 die sepulchred in their own dwellings. 
 
 Tahaa lies northward of Raiatea, the straits 
 between being from one to two leagues broad ; 
 the former about forty, and the latter fifty, miles 
 in compass, though twice that length would 
 scarcely measure the one or the other, if the 
 bays and harbour were coasted. Tahaa, in par- 
 ticular, is so irregularly shaped that the people 
 themselves compare it to the cuttle-fish, thepro- 
 jeeting headlands and intrusive creeks resem- 
 bling the many tails or tentacula by which that 
 animal, so frequent in these seas, catches its 
 I'm- t'od, and which, being furnished with 
 
 suckers, have power, in the larger species, to 
 detain a man under water till he is drowned, as 
 by an incubus, and becomes the monster's un- 
 resisting prey. Tahaa and Raiatea (like a well- 
 wedded couple) are also distinguished I 
 others of the group to which they belong by the 
 number of beautiful little motus that peep above 
 the water around them, and might pass for their 
 infant progeny. Nor need this be regarded as 
 altogether a fanciful assimilation ; these motus 
 all stand upon the reef, waving their palms over 
 the lagoon ; and, if the invisible architects con- 
 tinue to aggrandize them, only atom by atom, 
 through a computable period, they must arrive 
 at length at the state and dignity of islands. 
 Not less than fifty-four of such dependencies 
 encircle Tahaa alone. These, though unpeo- 
 pled, are valuable property, claimed by the land- 
 owners of the opposite district of the mother 
 land ; and they are much frequented for the 
 i'ontaneously produced upon them, and 
 the fish which abound on their shores. 
 
 Jan. 21). We find two species of ants here, of 
 which the most annoying are the most prolific, 
 swarming everywhere, and de\ouring all they 
 can penetrate and swallow, with their locust'- 
 likejaws and wolf-like stomachs. The compa- 
 ratively innoxious species are barely half tin- 
 size of the Knglish ant, whereas the de-- 
 are ten times their bulk and number, 
 pests are surprisingly active, and in doing mis- 
 chief indefatigable. Our friends, the .M 
 aries, are obliged to place their provisions on 
 Is standing in water-M els, to fortify 
 them against these ravenous marauders, w ho^e 
 strength is yet more remarkable than the sub- 
 tilty nf inst'inct and perpetuity of motion. A 
 single insect of this kind seized upon the spine 
 of an echinus, three inches long, and which 
 must have contained both bulk and i 
 c\eral hundred times exceeding those of the 
 ant itself. The latter, notwithstanding, dragged 
 away the booty with apparent ease. A few of 
 the>e in-ects will attack one of the huge brown 
 cockroaches of this country, quickly overpower, 
 kill, and hurry the carcase off to their huh >. 
 This morning Mr. Tunnun had taken a large 
 mosquito, and laid it upon his desk for the pur- 
 pose of microscopic examination. Two of the 
 smaller ants, being on the scout, found it, and 
 immediately fell to the work of demolition. 
 These were presently joined by six of their com- 
 rades, whose assistance was both timely, and, 
 as will be seen, well rewarded. The long wings 
 and legs being unmanageable, except on the 
 spot, the whole party united to gnaw thorn off, 
 and lay them aside. They then divided tin- 
 body from the head and shoulders, when (as it 
 appeared to us) the two first ants, to whom the 
 property belonged, each carried off Jus moiety 
 of this most precious part of the prize, and 
 abandoned the offal (the wings and legs) as the 
 perquisites of their auxiliaries, who soon left 
 nothing of their share unconsumed. 
 
 Jan. 30. We witnessed the division, on the 
 shore, of an extraordinary draught of fishes, of 
 the salmon species, which loaded two c 
 There were a hundred and thirty-two, weigh- 
 
BAPTISM IN TAHAA NATIVE NAMES. 
 
 147 
 
 ing, on an average, seven pounds each, or more ; 
 probably half a tori in the whole. They had 
 been caught, in the course of the day, with a 
 large new net, in the making of which almost 
 everybody in the island, we were told, had had 
 a hand. The man to whom it belonged, some 
 days ago, sent two hogs round the country, an- 
 nouncing that he wanted a net of such dimen- 
 sions immediately ; and, since nearly all the 
 people had tasted of the savoury meat, each was 
 thereby bound to take a part in the manufacture 
 of the article required. As this was the trial 
 of the net the products were considered sacred, 
 being first-fruits, and, according to ancient cus- 
 tom, were presented to the king. But, though 
 Tamatoa received all this mass of fish, he took 
 no more for the use of his own family than they 
 could eat at a meal ; and the rest, after selecting 
 a few of the finest for the Missionaries, he or- 
 dered to be distributed among the people, by 
 whom they were carried joyfully to their homes; 
 and it might be said that a whole population 
 supped on fish that evening. 
 
 liuf the ants are by no means the only de- 
 structive animals here the hogs may dispute 
 with them the pri/.e of devastating voracity. 
 They devour or destroy all before them. They 
 rob the very ovens of the food preparing in 
 thnn, not sparing the flesh of their own slaugh- 
 tered companions which may be deposited there. 
 These ovens, it will be recollected, are scooped 
 in the ground and lived with wood, under the 
 ashes of which, with the addition of heated 
 -tones, the provisions are laid, and covered up 
 with earth, till the batches are sufficiently baked. 
 The swine, whose wits, in this respect, are as 
 sharp as their appetites, will carefully open such 
 tumuli, grub out the hot stones, and, seizing the 
 delicious morsels, run, with the spoil smoking 
 I between their teeth, to the next water, into 
 which they plunge it to cool, and then greedily 
 enjoy the repast. This morning it was disco- 
 vered that seven or eight hogs, old offenders, 
 had committed a burglary upon the large oven 
 near Mr. Bourne's house, in which nearly forty 
 bread-fruits, split and intended for breakfast, 
 had been placed. The whole apparatus had 
 tieen demolished, the earth, ashes, and stones 
 were scattered abroad, and the precious con- 
 tents consumed. Scarcely any fence will pre- 
 serve plantations from their invading prowess, 
 in mining, sapping, and storming, when they 
 are sufficiently tempted to make the effort. 
 They will walk round a large enclosure, trying 
 every yard of paling or wattling, to discover a 
 Maw through which to effect a breach. If the 
 -ion of insinuating snouts, or the violence 
 of rampant feet, will not accomplish this, they 
 will retreat ten or twelve yards backward, and 
 rush head foremost against the obstruction, 
 through which they seldom fail to make aneck- 
 or-nought entrance. When one of these raven- 
 ous animals is happy enough to find a banana- 
 tree \\-itli a bunch of ripe fruit suspended above 
 his reach, but not above his ambition, he does 
 not waste his strength, like jEsop's fox with the 
 grapes, leaping at an unattainable object, but 
 wisely and leisurely sets himself to gnaw through 
 
 the trunk, and bring the treasure to the ground ; 
 and this he will never relinquish though he 
 toil for hours, till his industry has been reward- 
 ed, and he literally eats the fruit of his labours. 
 
 Feb. 9. Having been detained here by con- 
 trary winds during the past week, after we had 
 taken leave previously to embarking for Bora- 
 bora, we had the privilege, this day, to witness 
 the baptism of a hundred and ninety-eight can- 
 didates, of whom eighty-four were adults and a 
 hundred a.nd fourteen children. Of the latter, 
 sixty-five were boys and forty-nine girls ; and 
 of these ten or twelve only appeared to be up- 
 wards of seven years old. It was an affecting 
 consideration, as we looked upon the lovely and 
 innocent countenances of these little ones, to 
 reflect that a large majority of them owed their 
 lives to the gospel. These ought indeed to be 
 children of God ; for previous to their birth, 
 two-thirds of the infants that came into exist- 
 ence were put out of it as soon as they breathed 
 the atmosphere of a region under the dominion 
 of the prince of the power of the air, who 
 wrought in the hearts of parents " without na- 
 t-iral affection" to destroy their own flesh and 
 blood. There have now been baptized, in 
 Tahaa, four hundred and sixty-eight persons, 
 old and young, all of whom are under Christian, 
 discipline and daily instruction. These consti- 
 tute two-thirds of the population; the remain- 
 der, with a few idle or profligate exceptions, 
 attend the schools and the public means of 
 grace. 
 
 Feb. 10. A youth, not more than sixteen 
 years of age, having been found guilty of at- 
 tempting to persuade another boy, younger than 
 himself, to be tatooed by him, was sentenced to 
 be daubed from head to foot with black and 
 white. He was then tied to a pole, and carried 
 upon men's shoulders, before all the inhabitants 
 of the district, to the pier, where, being laid 
 down, the lad whom he had tried to seduce to a 
 heathenish custom was directed to flog him 
 smartly till he begged pardon, and promised to 
 leave off his wicked ways, for this was not the 
 first offence of the kind of which he had been 
 convicted. He was accompanied to and from 
 the place of punishment by a crowd of young 
 folks, who shouted and hooted at him. 
 
 Feb. 11. The following are the names of a 
 few of the persons who were baptized on Sun- 
 day last, and we give them as specimens of the 
 style and character of such appellatives : 
 Metro, a girdle ; Moiri, cloudy; Fara e, foreign- 
 pine-apple, (bromelia ananas,) which, in Tahiti, 
 is an exotic ; Tipape, a water-fetcher ; Rcia- 
 tura, neck of a god ; Haamarurai, a cloudy sky ; 
 Teaparai, lost in the clouds ; Ariiori, a dancing 
 king ; t'iivii, polluted with mire ; Vaiurii, 
 water for the king ; Faretaata, a house full of 
 people ; Otahia, a laughing-stock ; Vahapata, 
 a mouth that sputters out food as children ; 
 Pauma, a kite ; Uvini, a parrot ; Ohi, a bam- 
 boo ; Raipoai, a hungry sky, &c. &c. It is often 
 difficult to ascertain what meaning is associated 
 with the words of which proper names are com- 
 posed, the literal sense being almost none at all. 
 
 Feb. 12. Four men and two women being 
 L 2 
 
148 ARRIVAL AT BORABORA APPEARANCE OF NATIVE CONGREGATION. 
 
 convicted of indecent practices, to the great 
 scandal of the neighbourhood, and the confirmed 
 disgrace of their own characters similar crimes 
 having been proved against all of them before, 
 and the chastisements then inflicted having 
 failed to reclaim or deter them they were con- 
 demned to be fastened singly to a kind of pil- 
 lory, and carried upon the shoulders of stout 
 men all through the settlement, and back again 
 to the pier, and there compelled to finish the 
 work which was uncompleted under their 
 former sentences ; after which new tasks were 
 assigned to each, which they would scarcely be 
 able to perform in less than several months. 
 All the stones which are employed in building 
 the pier must be brought by the convicts out of 
 the sea, from a considerable depth ; and being 
 of no small weight, the drudgery, one might 
 suppose, in such a climate as this, would be 
 intolerable ; but, severe as it is, there are those 
 who seem to disregard it, or rather love their 
 crimes in spite of it ; and here, as elsewhere, 
 culprits who have oftenest suffered the penalties 
 of the law are most hardened in their iniquity, 
 and reckless of its wages shame, toil, and ser- 
 vitude. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 Arrival at Borabora Appearance of Native Conirrou'atiim 
 Congratulatory Addresses and Presents Mamai;i-* 
 Island of Maupiti Kcllcctioiis on its Loneliness 
 The Deputation welcomed Savage I'r.u tiers of the 
 People of Maupiti in former Times Effects of Infan- 
 tiride Ninetv IVrsons baptized Deserted V 
 M is- iniiarv Collection Return to Uorabora Estima- 
 tion of the Scriptures Rogues and Vagabonds 
 Kxeeiition of a Criminal -Missionary Meeting Laws 
 revised Prisoners' Sentences commuted Fortifica- 
 tions. 
 
 1823. FEB. 13. With a fine breeze we embarked 
 this afternoon in Mr. Orsmond's boat, accom- 
 panied by Mai, one of the two kings of Bora- 
 bora, who had kindly come over from thence 
 expressly to convoy the Deputation, in honour 
 of the Society whose servants we are for Christ's 
 sake. That singular island, at the distance of 
 fifteen miles, came full upon our view when we 
 h:ul passed the reef of Tahaa and entered tin- 
 open sea. It consists of one pyramidieal moun- 
 tain, towering as it fronted us, very steeply to 
 the height of four thousand feet, and crowned 
 with :ui inaccessible crag of bare rock, which 
 appeared to be a quadrangular mass laid on like 
 a topstone. Below this, herbage and trees gra- 
 dually thicken downwards to the shore. On 
 the cist and west the Hanks slope more gradu- 
 ally, and the lower end presents a gently undu- 
 lated surface till it dips into the sea. The light 
 wind bore us slowly towards this noble object, 
 which we contemplated with unsatisfied but im- 
 perceptibly changing delight, as its features in- 
 creased in magnitude and distinctness, till, in 
 the luxuriance of a fertile, fair, and peopled 
 isle, we forgot the dim and visionary grandeur 
 with which we had first beheld it, looming upon 
 the horizon, and scarcely seeming to be "of the 
 earth, earthy." Near though it seemed, at the 
 end of four hours, and as if we might have 
 swam to it, yet, before we could reach the port 
 we aimed at, the sun went down, and the glori- 
 
 ous scene became a black shadow, whose out- 
 line was barely distinguishable from the sky 
 on which it was delineated, while it darkened 
 our path upon the deep waters beneath as we 
 warily steered round the western extremity 
 that terminates in a reef far stretching into the 
 sea. This point must be doubled to enter the 
 lagoon of the Missionary harbour, which is fur- 
 ther defended by a barrier of coral rock, a small 
 island called Tabua, and several motus, encir- 
 cling the basin. The night was clear and calm, 
 the firmament alive with stars, and the sea as 
 quiet as a slumbering infant. Thus favourably 
 circumstanced at midnight, a time most unsea- 
 sonable for threading an intricate and perilous 
 maze of rocks, and shoals, and fathomless gulfs, 
 we were mercifully brought through the open- 
 ing in the reef ; and about two o'clock in the 
 morning landed in Borabora. 
 
 Feb. 14. We shall forbear to expatiate on the 
 local scenery, the patriarchal form of govern- 
 ment, the church services, the improved style of 
 building, and the progress of civilization, in the 
 train of the gospel, among these people, having 
 recorded at sufficient length corresponding cir- 
 cumstances in our observations upon other 
 islands. Borabora, in these respects, is behind 
 none which we have visited in the windward 
 group ; or, to say the least, it might be exhibited 
 as a favourable average specimen, on all the 
 points above mentioned, of the whole. 
 
 Borabora is divided into seven districts, over 
 which there are two kings, Mai and T faaoro. 
 Mai is distinguished, like his royal brethren of 
 Raiatea and Tahaa, for his fervent piety, his 
 peaceful spirit, and the wise administration of 
 his government. When Mr. Orsmond can:e 
 hither, in 1820, this prince, who owned the dis- 
 trict in which the settlement stands, gave him 
 possession of a considerable portion of land 
 adjacent, for the maintenance of the Mis-ion. 
 
 Feb. 1C (Lord's day). At the early ; 
 meeting nearly the whole congregation, amount- 
 ing to a thousand persons, were present. T\\ o 
 names, including .Mai the king, engaged in tin- 
 public services, by offering such prayers as one 
 would wi^h ini-rht ascend every Sabbath-day 
 from the lips of all Gentiles under heaven, for 
 such could not fail to bringdown upon the earth 
 blessings that would soon remove the dire-t 
 effects of the transgression for which the ground 
 was cursed after the fall of man. Mr. Orsmond 
 preached twice, in the fore and afternoon. The 
 people were exceedingly quiet, and seemed to 
 hear with devout attention, and to join heartily, 
 with sweet voices and delighted counten 
 in singing the praises of God. The aspect of 
 the assembly was more native than the motley 
 garments, of divers colours and patterns, to 
 which we had been familiarized in some other 
 places; most of the people being chid in the 
 simple, but beautifully becoming, array of their 
 ancestors, and that in full costume, not scanty 
 and immodest as it was generally worn in their 
 pagan state. This consisted of ample folds of 
 their own manufactured cloth, as white us snow, 
 girt about their loins, with the graceful tibuta of 
 the same thrown over their shoulder 
 
MARRIAGES ISLAND OF MAUPITI REFLECTIONS. 
 
 149 
 
 fastened upon the breast. The men wore hats, 
 and the women bonnets, made of the purau-bark, 
 delicately wrought into the only exctic article 
 of dress which they have yet adopted ; coverings 
 for the head (though these might be supposed 
 indispensable comforts in a tropical climate) 
 having been little used in former days, except 
 by warriors, and on festival occasions by dancers 
 and officers of ceremony. Not a dirty dis- 
 orderly individual of either sex was to be seen 
 throughout the whole congregation ; and the 
 behaviour, as well as the looks, of the children 
 in the house of God, to us appeared most inge- 
 nuous and engaging natural and simple, 
 though under restraint. Had the Redeemer 
 been visibly present, He surely would not have 
 disdained to say, even here, " Suffer the little 
 children to come unto me, and forbid them not." 
 
 Feb. 17. This morning was appointed to wel- 
 come us to Borabora. Kings, chiefs, raatiras, 
 and common people, assembled in the chapel. 
 After the devotions were concluded, and several 
 congratulatory addresses had been delivered on 
 both sides, two of the principal men stepped 
 forward, and presented each of us with a beau- 
 tiful mat, prepared of the finest materials, and 
 in the most ingenious style of native manufac- 
 ture, as a token of esteem and respect of all 
 the people of the island. A third chief then 
 delivered to our care another article of the same 
 kind, into the texture of which the name Griffin 
 had been wrought. This we were requested to 
 convey also in the name of all the people, as 
 their pledge of gratitude to the Rev. Mr. (irif- 
 fin, in England, from whose congregation their 
 mis>ionar\, Mr. Orsmond, had come out. In 
 the evening all the children, three hundred in 
 number, with their teachers, the king (Mai) 
 leading up the boys, and his queen the girls, 
 were assembled in the school-room to say 
 iauruna to u*. When we entered, the little ones 
 all stood up and sung a hymn, specially com- 
 posed for the occasion by Mr. Orsmond. They 
 afterwards passed in classes before us, when we 
 took a hand of each in turn and gave them our 
 blessing, praying that greater blessings than we 
 could give might ever be upon their heads. 
 
 Feb. 18. A wedding was solemnized here 
 this afternoon. The parties had met, been mu- 
 tually pleased, and agreed to live with one 
 another, after a few hours of well-spent ac- 
 quaintance. This is not unfrequent here, though 
 long courtships are; and so we may add are 
 matrimonial delinquencies, such as formerly 
 abounded, and involved the whole community 
 in the most revolting state of profligacy. Mar- 
 riage compacts are easily arranged, and the 
 o\erturc may he made by either party, the wo- 
 man as well as the man, and, according to an- 
 cient usage, as often by the former as the latter. 
 A message of affection, with the request of a 
 return in kind, is sent by a friend, or a note is 
 written on a plantain-leaf with the point of a 
 stick. The answer is generally as prompt as the 
 proposal is direct either aita, no, or ua tia, 
 it is agreed ; but in most instances, since the 
 knowledge of the gospel has led to more refine- 
 ment in conduct, those who are united in that 
 
 relation have obtained sufficient previous know- 
 ledge of each other's characters, as well as a 
 satisfactory understanding of each other's minds. 
 
 Feb. 19. Tero, king of Maupiti, having come 
 over to Borabora to invite and convey us to his 
 island, we sailed with him thither. The wind 
 being very moderate, our crew were obliged to 
 labour hard at the oar to make progress all day ; 
 and even at midnight we were several miles 
 from our desired haven. This is a very small 
 island, lying due west from the Missionary sta- 
 tion at Borabora. The opening in the reef is 
 on the south-west side, very narrow and deem- 
 ed difficult of access. Indeed, we found it so ; 
 for, though there had been little wind to stir the 
 sea, there was a great swell towards the en- 
 trance, and a strong current setting from it at 
 the same time. The moon had gone down 
 several hours before we reached this dangerous 
 strait, which darkness rendered doubly fearful. 
 The king himself, therefore, as being best ac- 
 quainted with the navigation, took the helm, 
 and steered our boat with great composure and 
 such good judgment that we shipped no sea, 
 though a heavy one broke upon our stern and 
 made our little vessel reel again. In the course 
 of half an hour, through a merciful Providence, 
 we had safely made the transit, from a swollen 
 ocean, through conflicting breakers, into the 
 calm lagoon. Day dawned, and the sun rose 
 upon its one high-peaked mountain, as we en- 
 tered the harbour and landed on this pretty 
 spot, which is so small, and yet so adorned*, 
 that it seems rather a resting-place for those 
 who traverse the vast Pacific, from continent to 
 continent of the extremities of the old and new 
 world, than the fixed and hereditary seat, of a 
 distinct population. In truth, there are hun- 
 dreds of islets scattered over this immensity of 
 water of which the same may be said; and yet, 
 upon their handbreadth of soil, after the fathers, 
 have come up the children, through untold 
 generations, leaving, as they disappeared, no 
 more trace of their fugitive existence than the 
 breakers that were contemporary with them 
 ha\e left of their foam upon the reefs. 
 
 Feb. 20. The whole population was waiting 
 to receive us at the pier, and all voices were 
 raised to say iaorana ; all countenances were 
 smiling upon us, as though we had been angels 
 just lighted from heaven upon their soil ; while 
 all hands were stretched out to welcome us, as 
 men of like passions with themselves, drawn by 
 affection from the ends of the earth to visit 
 them in their lowliness and in their loneliness 
 too ; for what a speck upon the ocean what an 
 atom among the nations is poor Maupiti '. 
 And yet to the father, whose father's bones lie 
 there to the mother, whose mother nursed her 
 on that very spot and to the babe that dances 
 in her arms, as full of life and spirits as though 
 it were all over wings, and could fly like a lark 
 into the firmament, if restraining love would 
 let it to those parents, and to that babe, Mau- 
 piti is home and country ; all that all the world 
 can be to them, 
 
 " Whose souls proud science never tauqht to stray 
 Beyond the solar walk or milky "Way." 
 
150 FIRST TEACHERS AT MAUPITI FORMER SAVAGE PRACTICES. 
 
 How false, yet how touching, are the lines that 
 follow these ! One almost wishes that they had 
 been true, the picture is so captivating: 
 
 " Yet, simple Nature to his hopes has given, 
 llehind the clond-topt hill, an humbler heaven ; 
 Some safer world in depth of woods embraced, 
 Some happier island in the waterv wa-te. 
 * * * * * 
 
 ***** 
 ' To be, contents his natural desire, 
 He asks no angel's win;,', no seraph's fire ; 
 Hut thinks, admitted to that equal sky, 
 IIU faithful do?,' shall bear him company." 
 
 ESSAY ON MAX. EPIBT. I. 
 
 Alas! such a race of " Indians" never existed 
 anywhere on the face of this fallen world, in a 
 state of nature or rather, in that state of hea- 
 thenism in which the best feelings of nnture 
 are incessantly and universally outraged. NY hat 
 notions the simple people of these islands had 
 of "heaven" has already been shown in the 
 course of this journal on various occasions, so 
 far a* we durst draw the veil from abominations, 
 not lawful to be uttered, which were associated 
 with their notions of the spiritual condition of 
 the dead. 
 
 Feb. 21. There was a general assembly of 
 the inhabitants to aroJia us, as the representatives 
 of the good people of Bcretani who had sent 
 them the great word, the word of God, which 
 hail sounded forth from our shores even to 
 theirs. M utual congratulations were exchanged, 
 and there was that feeling abroad among all 
 which had an enemy of the gosn.'l v\i;- 
 nessed, however hardened in unbelief, he must 
 have caught the infection for a moment, and ex- 
 claimed, "See, how these Christians love one 
 another ! " 
 
 Maupiti received the " s^ood tidings of 
 joy, which are to all people," in 1817. We say, 
 had received the "good tidings," not from 
 strangers, but from two native teachers, whose 
 lips the Lord hail opened, that their mouths 
 miijht show forth his praise, and who, in their 
 own tongue, \-ould tell the idolatirs of this 
 island what (Jod had done for Borabora, 
 whence, they themselves came. Th'-ir testimony 
 was believed ; the maraes, with their altars and 
 their divinities, were overthrown, and small 
 and Lrreat acknowledged "the only true (mil, 
 and Jesus Christ whom He hath sent." For 
 four years, these "two witnesses" continued to 
 " prophesy" to their brethren, and it was not 
 till December last that a European preacher 
 shewed his face among them. Mr. Orsmond, 
 from Borahoni, at that time visited the new 
 converts at Maupiti, as Barnabas the first Chris- 
 tians at Antioeh ; when lie likewise, experienced 
 the gladness of that "good man, full of faith 
 and of the Holy Clhost," expressed in the text 
 from which he has preached this day, when 
 "he saw th<- grace of (!od." We are mistaken. 
 if this lovely spot, alone as it lies at a consider- 
 able distance from the rest of the Society -rroup, 
 was not the first amidst these seas that w::s 
 e\aii'_relized by the labours of native teachers. 
 
 It is a very remarkable example of the influ- 
 ence of Christianity on the single-hearted, 
 generous-minded people of these petty but not 
 insignificant realms, where ambition, not less 
 
 than cruelty and licentiousness, formerly bore 
 sway, and the right of power alone gave a title 
 to rule, that, when Borabora had exc' 
 the bondage of Satan for the yoke of Him who 
 was meek and lowly of heart, her inhabitants 
 not only sent messengers to Maupiti to pro- 
 claim spiritual liberty to the captives there, but 
 Mai, one of her kings, who had held that 
 island by conquest, spontaneously restored it to 
 Tero, its rightful sovereign, who now reigns 
 here in righteousness, as his ancestors i 
 before him by violence. The warriors of .Mau- 
 piti were not a whit behind the most ferocious 
 of their neighbours, in the malignancy and in- 
 veteracy of their enmities, and the reckless 
 havoc of life which they made in their wars. 
 When a combatant had slain a distinguished 
 adversary, after the fray was over, the perishing 
 carcass was left upon the field for a day or two. 
 It was then dragged to the marae, when the 
 victor and his friends would stand over it, and 
 exult in the most savage manner over the cor- 
 rupted mass. Each taking a fibrous wand of 
 cocoa-nut leaf, tough as whalebone, in his 
 hand, to employ as a drum-stick, they would 
 beat the body with these till they - 
 saying to it, "Aha! we have you now : 
 tongue fills your mouth, your eyes stand out of 
 your head, and your : lien ; so it 
 
 would have been with us if you had prevailed." 
 Then, after a pause, they would renew their 
 impotent stripes, and not 1- -s impotent taunts : 
 "Now you are dead; you will no more 
 plague us ; we are revenged upon you ; 
 you would have revenirod yourself on u^. 
 fad been the strongest in battle." Again; 
 "Ah! you will drink no nion a\a; you will 
 kill no more men ; you will disembov 
 more of our whcs and daughters; as we u^,- 
 you, you would have used xis ; but we are the 
 conquerors, and we ha\e our \ 
 When they bad tired themsehes, and 
 the flesh of the coqe 1o mummy, they broke 
 the arms above the elbows, phio-d liowers 
 within the hands, and, fastening a rope about 
 the neck, they suspended the mangled i 
 upon a tree, and danced with tiend-like exulta- 
 tion about it, laughing and shouting 
 wind blew the dislocated limbs, and the rent 
 muscles, to and fro. 
 
 1 to murder in all its forms of battle, 
 sacrifice, assassination, and infanticide, robbery 
 was practised to perfection among these island- 
 ers Hiro, the god of thieves, boinu 
 with scarcely less devotion than Oro, the irod c.f 
 war. The devotees of the former, of course, 
 excelled in subtlety, as those of the latter in 
 courage. When they had marked a well->torni 
 house for purposes of plunder, one of the party 
 would steal into it, during the night, and secure 
 a leg of the master, and of every inmate likely 
 to be formidable, while they were asleep,* by 
 noosing the limb with a rope, which he fastened 
 to one of the posts that supported the building. 
 His comrades, in the meantime, climbed upon 
 
 These people sleep rrry soundly, of which fact we 
 have heard some remarkable proofs. 
 
EFFECTS OF INFANTICIDE NINETY PERSONS BAPTIZED. 
 
 151 
 
 the roof, and, opening holes through the thatch, 
 drew up, at their leisure, all such valuable pro- 
 perty as was wont to be hung upon frames or 
 kgainct the walls. While they were fishing in 
 tiiis manner, and, by means of strings and 
 hooks, catching one precious article after 
 another, if the owner or any of his household 
 awoke, and in alarm leaped forth to sally out 
 upon the burglars, the rope round his leg 
 checked and threw him upon the floor, and the 
 enemy precipitately decamped. To secure 
 their hogs, the natives sometimes chose to 
 sleep upon a board laid over the sty where the 
 animals were lodged. A rogue would watch 
 his opportunity to run against this precarious 
 bedstead, and roll the astonished occupant in 
 the dust, who, being thus suddenly awakened, 
 naturally ran after the assailant, who cunningly 
 acted as a decoy, and drew him away from the 
 premises, while his comrades roused the reluct- 
 ant hogs, turned them out of their quiet enclo- 
 sure, and drove or carried them off, squalling, 
 upon their shoulders. 
 
 Feb. 25. In the school we counted eighty 
 hoys and sixty ^irls : the disproportion between 
 the sexes among the adults is at the rate of 
 three men for two women. This inequality, so 
 far as regards the rising generation, (emphati- 
 cally rixintf, in this respect,) is gradually dimin- 
 ishing, since the abolition of infanticide, of 
 which formerly females, at their birth, were the 
 principal victims. There are now about two 
 hundred children in the island, under ten y-ars 
 of age ; while there are comparatively few be- 
 tween that age and twenty. The gap is fearful 
 in that interesting stage of human existence, 
 having been made by those whose progeny 
 would have filled it with youth and strength, 
 intelligence and loveliness, had not the parents 
 themselves killed all these in the bud, and left 
 the fairest branch of the tree of life almost 
 flowerless and fruitless. 
 
 It is remarkable that, though so many infants 
 were destroyed immediately after their birth, 
 those which were preserved were nursed with 
 the most passionate tenderness and jealousy of 
 affection. Not only would an injury a blow, 
 for example, casually or intentionally inflicted 
 by a man upon a child, be revenged sevenfold 
 by its father but if a boy or girl, in a quarrel, 
 hurt one of another family, the parent of the 
 sufferer would take his club and go to the 
 house of the offender's parents and demand sa- 
 tisfaction. This was either given, to a sufficient 
 amount to appease the challenger, or the other 
 parent seized his club also, when to battle they 
 went, and seldom desisted till one of the com- 
 batants was slain. 
 
 March 2. (Lord's-day.) Ninety adults and 
 children have been baptized yesterday and this 
 morning. There are not now more than sixty 
 unbaptized persons, of age to judge for them- 
 selves, in this island. A church, upon the in- 
 dependent plan, was also established here, of 
 which the first members were the two teachers 
 from Borabora, Tero, the king, and five others. 
 On this occasion the holy communion of the 
 body and blood of Christ was celebrated for the 
 
 first time in Maupiti ; thus may its inhabitants 
 " shew forth the Lord's death, until He come !" 
 What hath God wrought here, where Satan 
 formerly wrought his direst purposes ! In every 
 part of this beautiful island there are traces of 
 a population, once numerous and flourishing, 
 among the valleys and on the wooded sides of 
 the mountains, till reduced by war and infanti- 
 cide to a few families scattered along the shore. 
 But the gospel found the population thus 
 perishing, and said to the small remnant, 
 "live," when, forthwith, it revived. It is now 
 increasing on every side, and rebuilding the 
 waste places of former generations. The mul- 
 titude of maraes, not less than two hundred 
 and twenty, within a circumference of ten 
 miles, must, latterly, have equalled the number 
 of dwellings. These were of many sizes, but, 
 in general, small, and built in the rudest man- 
 ner mere squares of ill-shapen and ill-piled 
 stones, now more picturesque in decay than 
 ever they had been in their glory when they 
 were deemed to be temples of divinities. These 
 were erected in any place and at any time, 
 when the priests required, by the slavish people. 
 On such occasions the former overlooked the 
 latter at their work, and denounced the most 
 terrihle judgments upon those who were remiss 
 at it. The poor wretches were thus compelled 
 to finish their tasks (burthensome as they often 
 were, in heaving blocks from the sea, dragging 
 them ashore, and heaping them one upon 
 another) without eating, which would have 
 desecrated the intended sanctuary. To restrain 
 the gnawings of hunger they bound girdles of 
 bark round their bodies, tightening the liga- 
 tures, from time to time, as their stomachs 
 shrunk with emptiness. And, when the drud- 
 gery was done, it was not uncommon for the 
 remorseless priests to seize one of the miserable 
 builders and sacrifice him to the idol of the 
 place. After battles the dead bodies of enemies 
 were laid upon these maraes ; but the lower 
 jaw-bone of each was sent to Raiatea, as the 
 representative of the whole carcass, which was 
 supposed thus to be offered to Oro, at his head- 
 quarters, at Opoa. Long strings of these relics 
 might be seen there, suspended about ' his 
 marae. 
 
 March 5. A Missionary Society was formed 
 at a meeting held for that purpose : freely hav- 
 ing received the gospel, the people were pre- 
 pared freely to communicate it to tribes who 
 had it not. A thousand bamboos of oil were 
 subscribed, and men, women, and children all 
 expressed themselves eager to contribute what 
 they could, however great or however small 
 their offering might be. 
 
 March 0. We returned to Borabora. 
 
 March 10. The people here having learnt 
 that we had two copies of the Acts of the 
 Apostles, newly translated into their tongue, 
 we were applied to by many for the loan of the 
 same, in. the evening, that they might take the 
 books home to read in their families. So far as 
 was possible we were glad to accommodate 
 these eager inquirers after the word of God, 
 which, from the necessity of the case a neces- 
 
152 ESTIMATION OF THE SCRIPTURES EXECUTION OF A CRIMINAL. 
 
 sity attended by many valuable advantages is 
 tbus communicated to these uninstructed con- 
 verts, portion by portion, as they can bear it, 
 and as the slow labour of rendering its multi- 
 farious contents in their language will admit. 
 We doubt not, that those to whom we have 
 lent our two copies of this interesting section of 
 the sacred Scriptures will be occupied, all 
 night, in reading how the gospel of old was 
 preached among the Gentiles, as it is now 
 among themselves, to their friends and neigh- 
 bours. A little boy, who is very ill, requested 
 his mother to read something out of the New 
 Testament to him, saying, "I want the comfort 
 which that book can give me in my sickness." 
 His mother answered, that she could not yet 
 read a chapter in it. " Alas !" rejoined her 
 son, "my mother! have you been so long 
 learning, and cannot you yet read the Holy 
 Scriptures 1" The poor woman burst into tears, 
 and s;it down overwhelmed with grief, that she 
 h:id not the means of affording her child the 
 consolation which he desired. 
 
 March 13. Last night, Mr. Orsmond having 
 received a dozen copies of the aforesaid printed 
 version of the Acts of the Apostles, the house 
 was crowded with persons, wanting to purchase 
 them, bringing their measures of cocoa-nut oil 
 for money.. They were told that these were 
 not to be sold, but that copies, sufficient to sup- 
 ply everybody, were expected soon. Still it 
 \\:is difficult to pacify them. One man ex- 
 claimed, "I may be dead. before they arrive! 
 Here are my bamboos of oil ; why may I not 
 have a book now 1" It was late in the evening, 
 :m<l he was requested to go home to bed. 
 " What good will that do me," he replied, " to 
 go home and to bed, when I cannot sleep unless 
 1 have the pa ran mtritai?" (good word). 
 
 March 14. The rogues and vagabonds of 
 these islands, who commit most of the offences 
 that are punished here by hard labour on the 
 public works, have been failed tltta auri, 
 "rusty iron," a term which always provoked 
 them exceedingly when they were, so stigma- 
 ti/.ed to the face. Yesterday evening it was 
 resolved to discontinue this opprobrious desig- 
 nation, and call them, hereafter, fcia aroha, 
 " people to be pitied." How worthy they 
 were of such delicacy to their feelings, and 
 compassion for their condition, some of the 
 tribe proved at that very time ; for, while the 
 people were discussing this change of appella- 
 tion, in the public meeting, a gang broke up 
 the oven and carried away the hog and bread- 
 fruit that were baking in it, belonging to one of 
 the principal persons who was pleading their 
 cause, leaving 1m family supperless for his ill- 
 requited benevolence but not the less on that 
 account exemplifying the meekness and gentle- 
 ness of character which the gospel is inducing 
 upon a people, who, but a few years ago, 
 ranked with the most remorseless barbarians. 
 So inveterately vindictive were they, that if one 
 person happened to kill another's dog, what- 
 ever might have been the provocation, the 
 owner was not to be appeased with less than 
 the offender's blood ; and, if he found no op- 
 
 of spilling it, he would bequeath to 
 is son, with his dying breath, the legacy of 
 vengeance nay, even entail it upon his child- 
 ren's children, never to be abandoned till the 
 life of a man had been taken (though unborn 
 when the crime was committed) for the life of a 
 brute. 
 
 The only capital punishment which has been 
 inflicted throughout the whole group of Lee- 
 ward Islands, since the introduction of Christi- 
 anity, took place here about six weeks before 
 our arrival. The sufferer was a villain of all- 
 work, and had become a terror to the whole 
 island. One day, meeting two children wan- 
 dering alone among the mountains, he stopped 
 them and told the poor creatures he should 
 kill, roast, and eat them. The boys (who were, 
 severally, about the age of seven years) said, 
 "Do it, do it ; and don't pretend that you will, 
 and then you won't." He assured them that 
 they should find he was not frightening them 
 with a false pretence, for he would do as he 
 said. Accordingly he kindled a tire, and was 
 going as the children, who durst not attempt 
 to run away, said afterwards to kill, disem- 
 bowel, and bake them, in the manner that 
 hogs are slaughtered and cooked. -Meanwhile 
 some girls coming suddenly in sight, and shriek- 
 ing with alarm, the wretch lied into the woods, 
 lie was, however, soon hunted out, taken, and 
 brought to justice. On his trial he did not 
 deny his cannibal purpose ; wherefore, on the 
 testimony of the two lads, he was convicted, 
 and condemned to be hanged within a fortnight. 
 The sentence was executed, and he co: 
 its justice. The solitary instance of a lite thus 
 awfully taken away, probably produced more 
 terror among the reprobate, and excited more 
 sympathy among the pious, people of Borabora, 
 than the customary murders of ten years had 
 done before the nation was, in this respect at 
 least, converted by the power of the gospel. 
 
 April :*. llavinir, some days ago, addressed a 
 letter of Christian rcme:i.l>rance to tin- 
 and church of Maupiti, a canoe from that island 
 has brought us the following acknowledgments, 
 which we transcribe (in an English version) as 
 specimens of native epistolary style. 
 
 " O Miti Taiamani O Miti Peneti, $c. 
 ' To Mr. Tyerman and Mr. Bennet. 
 
 "Our dear brethren! who have come to 
 refresh ns, who have tome with kindness may 
 you be saved by the true God, the King of 
 Heaven, and by Jesus Christ, our good Lord, 
 who sent vou two to our land. This is one 
 word. 
 
 " We have great comfort of heart, yea, our 
 hearts are enlarged in praise to God. It is our 
 desire that the gospel of our Saviour may grow 
 in this land. 1 hat is another word. 
 
 " The brethren and sisters are delighted with 
 what you two have written to them. We re- 
 member the former sayings with which you 
 encouraged us. Your faces and your looks are 
 lost to us, but you are written in our, hearts. 
 We pray that you may be returned to your own 
 land, and that no sickness may come upon you 
 
MISSIONARY MEETING AMNESTY OF OFFENDERS. 
 
 153 
 
 in your dwellings. May you be saved, Taia- 
 mani and Peneti ! in the Lord. 
 
 the Teachers." 
 EVAE, 
 
 " Maupiti, April 2, 1823. 
 
 THE KING'S LETTER. 
 
 " Xa Taiamani ma ratio, Feneti, Porapora. 
 " Maurua, April 3, 1823. 
 
 " Dear Friends, Bennet and Tyerman, at 
 Borabora. 
 
 " May you two be saved by the true God, by 
 Jehovah, and by Jesus Christ our Lord ! This 
 is one little word to you. 
 
 " My heart is rejoicing because of the sayings 
 in that letter which you wrote to refresh me. 
 My love strongly remains towards you two, as 
 if your own little words were written on my 
 heart, because we have one object of affection 
 the gospel of our Saviour. My heart agrees 
 with you two, and with all the brethren, and all 
 the sisters and all the little children, boys and 
 girls. The end of my little word. TIERO." 
 
 April 9. The Missionary anniversary was ce- 
 lebrated by anticipation (being usually held in 
 the month of May), that we might be present. 
 The contributions amounted to two thousand, 
 four hundred and eighty bamboos of cocoa-nut 
 oil. The meeting lasted the whole day, includ- 
 ing an interval of not more than an hour for 
 n.'1'n.'sliment. Many partni ifi, "little speeches," 
 were made in the course of the proceedings, by 
 chiefs and other natives distinguished for their 
 piety and scriptural knowledge. These fre- 
 quently did not occupy more than three or four 
 minutes in the delivery; but this people speak 
 with admirable promptitude, fluency, and cor- 
 rect ness. Some of the more eloquent speakers 
 will harangue for ten minutes or a quarter of an 
 hour with great force, but always in brief, preg- 
 nant sentences. Strict etiquette is observed. 
 Each is heard with the most patient attention, 
 and never interrupted. AY hen one sits down 
 another rises, not hastily, but decorously, and 
 when he finds himself in possession of the 
 meeting, commends his " little word," dis- 
 tinctly, to the family of the kings, the chiefs, 
 the raatiras, the common people, the women, 
 and the young ones present. 
 
 April 10. This day was devoted to secular 
 business of great interest and importance here, 
 namely, the adoption of the amended code of 
 laws, which have long been under revision, and 
 to the improvement of which we have given our 
 -sistance. The proceedings were com- 
 menced by an act of amnesty to all state offend- 
 ers, under sentences of hard labour at the public 
 works, on their separately promising to endea- 
 vour to lead orderly and peaceable lives in 
 future. There were about sixty men and wo- 
 men ; of whom eight only had been baptized, 
 and only one appeared to be above twenty years 
 of age. Most of the culprits assented, without 
 hesitation, to the engagement, when they under- 
 stood that it did not involve a matter of fact, but 
 of purpose ; for (as some very honestly remarked 
 when the question was put to them) they did 
 not know whether they should ever again do 
 
 wrong or not. One man, a chief, was very 
 obstinate. He had married a certain woman,, 
 and on the same day eloped with another, with 
 whom he continued to live among the mountains 
 till he was apprehended, and brought to justice. 
 This renegade husband, for some time, peremp- 
 torily demurred to the condition of pardon 
 offered to him namely, to return to his own 
 house, and take his lawful wife thither. After 
 much persuasion, and on being threatened with 
 the punishment of the stocks, which is considered 
 very ignominious, he at length yielded, frankly 
 observing, " It is only from fear of the stocks 
 that I consent to go home and live with my 
 wife." 
 
 The debates on the code then commenced, 
 and continued till evening. Each law was sepa- 
 rately read, discussed, and put to the vote, for 
 acceptance or rejection. The whole was con- 
 ducted in a good spirit, and ended satisfacto- 
 rily. 
 
 April 11. This forenoon we visited the two 
 parts, as they are called, situated upon the great 
 mountain of Paia, being rude fortresses built on 
 the least accessible slopes of the hills, and en- 
 closing considerable spaces of the surface, inter- 
 sected with strong walls, which served not 
 merely as fences, but supplied ammunition 
 wherewith to annoy an ascending enemy. These 
 In-longed to the two kings of the island ; that 
 on the south to Mai, and that on the north to 
 Tefaaora. They were separated only by a 
 footpath, and extended along the rocky ridge of 
 the mountain. Each pari is about half a mile 
 in length, and furnishes a curious specimen of 
 rough but effectual fortification, suited to the 
 circumstances of the ground, and the modes of 
 warfare formerly existing among the people. 
 Within the enclosures are bread-fruit, cocoa- 
 nut, plantain, vi-apple, and other trees, to sup- 
 ply provisions, with water-springs, on which a 
 besieged garrison might subsist for months ; so 
 that it would be as difficult for their assailants 
 to starve them into surrender as to storm their 
 lines. In one place was the wreck of an old 
 canoe, built in the last war, and laid there to 
 appease the anger of some god. Offerings of that 
 kind were not unfrequently resorted to for the 
 same superstitious purpose. These canoes were 
 constructed entirely by the kings and chiefs them- 
 selves ; no vulgar hand was allowed to aid in the 
 sacred work. Both bulwarks and canoes are now 
 left to perish by exposure to the elements ; floods, 
 hurricanes, and burning suns are rapidly demo- 
 lishing these last memorials of departed horrors 
 and atrocities. 
 
 CPIAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 Return to Raialea Singular Water-spoutMr, and 
 Mrs. Chamberlain Dreadful Narrative of Captain 
 I'oll.-tvil News from the Sandwich Islands Raiatean 
 Tradition First Overthrow of Idolatry in Raiatea 
 Land Crabs Departure for Hnahine Missionary 
 Meeting held, and the Code of Laws settled. 
 
 1823. APRIL 10. Having concluded our official 
 duties here, we took an affectionate leave of our 
 friends, and availed ourselves of Mr. Orsmond's 
 kindness to convey us in his own boat to Raia- 
 
154 
 
 ARRIVAL AT RAIATEA NARRATIVE OF CAPTAIN POLLARD. 
 
 tea and Huahine, and embarked accordingly 
 this morning. The air was calm till we had 
 got into the open sea beyond the reef, when a 
 violent shower assailed us, and a water-spout 
 shot from a high cloud, slender and nearly per- 
 pendicular, reaching halfway downward towards 
 the water. It was visible for about three mi- 
 nutes, and then dispersed. Soon afterwards 
 our attention was arrested by another pheno- 
 menon of a similar kind, but of much more rare 
 occurrence. This was, or appeared to be, a 
 water-spout, slightly curved, and stretching ho- 
 rizontally between two clouds, connecting them 
 together and rapidly transmitting a stream from 
 one to the other, like that which passes between 
 the sea and the cloud in ordinary cases. The tube 
 was cylindrical, semi-transparent, smooth, and 
 well defined, except towards the extremities, 
 where, at its junction with the dense black masses 
 of vapour between which it was suspended, the 
 edges became ragged and fleecy. This singular 
 conduit, as well as we could judu r <', miirht he 
 three-quarters of a mile in length, and of pro- 
 portionate though slender diameter. The higher 
 end was directly above us, sloping at an angle 
 of about three degrees to the eye from the ze- 
 nith ; so that we gazed upon the suspended 
 flood-gate with admiration not unmingled with 
 awe, for had it broken downwards, our frail 
 vessel and all on board must have been instan- 
 taneously submerged. There was no agitation 
 on the surface of the sea, the breeze was liirht 
 and fluttering, and there had been some distant 
 thunder within the hour : the whole process of 
 formation and dissolution took place in the at- 
 mosphere, and was effected in little more than 
 five minutes from the time when we di-< 
 the first symptom of it in the sky, which was 
 otherwise lowering with clouds, on either side 
 of 1h" two biMwi-en which this transverse pipe 
 was projected, and into which it soon resolved 
 
 itself. 
 
 \\ <> were oblige;! to rely upon the strenuous 
 exertions of our rowers all day for the slow pro- 
 gress which could be made without a bree/e to 
 swell our sail. Not however till we had got 
 into smooth water within the reef of Tahaa, did 
 the patient and indefatigable natives drop their 
 oars to take any food, except an occasional mor- 
 sel, or a draught of cocoa-nut water. And no 
 sooner had they moderately refreshed themselves 
 at this point than they renewed their labours, 
 and pushed towards Vauaara, the missionary 
 station in Uaiatea, where we landed in safety in 
 the course of the night. 
 
 April 16. In the harbour here, we found the 
 American brig Pearl, Captain Chandler, which 
 had put in for repairs, having sprung a leak at 
 sea ; and on board of this vessel, to our great 
 joy and surprise, we met with our friends, Mr. 
 and .Mrs. Chamberlain, from the Sandwich 
 Islands. We never expected to have seen their 
 faces again in this world. They were however, 
 for reasons which we had known and approved 
 when we parted with them, on their return with 
 their young family to America. They gave us 
 the most gratifying account of the safe arrival 
 and cordial reception of Mr. and Mrs. Ellis, at 
 
 Oahu, by our American missionary friends there, 
 by the king also, the chiefs, and the people all 
 of whom rejoiced to welcome them as servants 
 of the Most High God, arrived among them to 
 teach a nation, without any religion^ the only 
 doctrines under heaven worthy of that name. 
 
 There were three captains on board this liriu r , 
 as passengers to America. The ships of two of 
 these had been wrecked, and that of the third 
 condemned. One of them was Captain < 
 Pollard, whose singular and lamentable story 
 in the case of a former shipwreck (as nearly as 
 can be recollected by Mr. Bennet), deserves to 
 be recorded in his own manner. It was sub- 
 stantially as follows : 
 
 " My first shipwreck was in open sea, on the 
 20th of November, 1820, near the equator, about 
 1 IS" W. long. The vessel, a South Sea Whaler, 
 was called the Essex. On that day, a^ we w-r. 
 on the look out for sperm whales, and had ac- 
 tually struck two, which the boats' crews were 
 following to secure, I perceived a AC: 
 one it might be eighty or ninety feet long 
 rushing with great -':roud) the 
 
 right towards the ship. We hoped that she 
 would turn aside and dive under when she per- 
 ceived such a baulk in her way. But no ! the 
 animal came full force against our stern-port : 
 had any quarter less firm been struck th' 
 must have been burst; as it \\a-. e\eiy plank 
 and timber trembled, throughout her whole 
 bulk. 
 
 " The whale, as though hurt by a severe and 
 unexpected concussion, shook its enormous 
 head and sheared off to so considerable 
 tance that for some time we had lost sight of 
 her from the starboard quarter; of which we 
 were very glad, hoping that the worst w;i 
 Nearly an hour afterwards we saw tin 
 fish we had no doubt of this, from 1" 
 and the direction in which she came n 
 again towards us. We were at once aware of 
 our danger, but < 
 
 dashed her head this time against the ship's 
 side, and so broke it in that the vessel filled 
 rapidly, and soon became water-logged. At the 
 second shock, expecting her to go down, we 
 lowered our three boats with the utmost 
 tion, and all hands, twenty in the whole, got 
 into them seven, and seven, and six. In a 
 little while, as she did not sink, we ventured on 
 hoard again, and, by scuttling the deck, were 
 enabled to get out some biscuit, 1>< ('. 
 rum, one sextant, a quadrant, and three com- 
 passes. These, together with some TVJ. 
 few muskets, powder, &c. we brought a\\a\ ; 
 and, dividing the stores among our thi> 
 crews, rigged the boats as well as we could ; 
 there being a compass for each, and a 
 for one and a quadrant for one, but neither sex- 
 tant nor quadrant for the third. Then, instead 
 of pushing away for some port, so amazed and 
 bewildered were we that we continued sitting 
 in our places ga/.ing upon the ship, as though 
 she had been an object of the tenderest affec- 
 tion. Our eyes could not leave her till, at the 
 end of many hours, she gave a slight reel, then 
 down she sank. No words can tell our feelings. 
 
NARRATIVE OF CAPTAIN POLLARD. 
 
 155 
 
 We looked at each other, we looked at the 
 place where she had so lately been afloat, and 
 we did not cease to look, till the terrible con- 
 viction of our abandoned and perilous situation 
 roused us to exertion, if deliverance were yet 
 possible. 
 
 " ~\Ve now consulted about the course which 
 it might be best to take westward to India, 
 eastward to South America, or south-westward 
 to the Society Isles. We knew that we were at 
 no nTc-at distance from Tahiti, but were so igno- 
 rant of the state and temper of the inhabitants, 
 that we feared we should be devoured by can- 
 nibals if we cast ourselves on their mercy. It 
 was determined therefor* to make for South 
 America, which we computed to be more than 
 two thousand miles distant. Accordingly Ave 
 steered eastward, and though for several days 
 harassed with squalls, we contrived to keep 
 together. It was not long before we found that 
 one of the boats had started a plank, which was 
 no wonder, for Avhale-boats are all clinker- 
 built, and very slight, being made of half-inch 
 plnk only, before planing. To remedy thi8 
 ularminsj; defect we all turned to, and, having 
 emptied the damaged boat into the two others, 
 we 1 raised her side as well as we could, and suc- 
 ceeded in restoring the plank at the bottom. 
 Through this accident, some of our biscuit had 
 become injured by the salt-water. This was 
 equally divided among the several boats' crews. 
 Food and Avater meanwhile, Avith our utmost 
 economy, rapidly failed. Our strength was ex- 
 hausted, not by abstinence only, but by the 
 labours which we Avere obliged to employ to 
 keep our little vessels afloat, amidst the storms 
 which repeatedly assailed us. One night we 
 were parted in rough weather; but though 
 the next day we fell in with one of our com- 
 panion-boats, we never saw or heard any more 
 of the other, which probably perished at sea, 
 being Avithout either sextant or quadrant. 
 
 " When we were reduced to the last pinch, 
 and out of everything. Inning been more than 
 three weeks abroad, we were cheered with the 
 si^ht of a low, uninhabited island, which we 
 reached in hope, but were bitterly disappointed. 
 There were some barren bushes, and many rocks 
 on this forlorn spot. The only provisions that 
 we could procur^were a few birds and their 
 iiis supply^fras soon reduced; the sea- 
 fowls appeared to have been frightened away, 
 and their nests were left empty after we had 
 once or twice plundered them. What dis- 
 : us most was the utter want of fresh 
 water ; we could not find a drop anywhere, till, 
 at the extreme verge of ebb tide, a small spring 
 was disco\ered in the sand ; but even that was 
 i.ty to aliord us sufficient to quench our 
 thirst before it was covered by the waves at 
 their turn. 
 
 " There being no prospect but that of starva- 
 tion here, we determined to put to sea again. 
 Three of our comrades, however, chose to re- 
 main, and we pledged ourselves to send a ves- 
 sel to bring them off, if we ourselves should 
 CM T < scape to a Christian port. With a very 
 small morsel of biscuit for each, and a little 
 
 water, we again ventured out on the wide 
 ocean. In the course of a few days our provi- 
 sions were consumed. Two men died ; we had 
 no other alternative than to live upon their re- 
 mains. These we roasted to dryness by means 
 of fires kindled on the ballast-sand at the bot- 
 tom of the boats. When this supply was spent, 
 what could Ave do * We looked at each other 
 with horrid thoughts in our minds, but Ave held 
 our tongues. I am sure that Ave loved one 
 another as brothers all the time ; and yet our 
 looks told plainly Avhat must be done. We east 
 lots, and the fatal one fell on my poor cabin- 
 boy. I started forward instantly, and cried out, 
 ' My lad, my lad, if you don't like your lot, I'll 
 shoot the first man that touches you.' The poor 
 emaciated boy hesitated a moment or tAvo ; 
 then, quietly laying his head down upon the 
 gunnel of the boat, he said, ' / like it as well 
 as any other.' He was soon despatched, and 
 nothing of him left. I think, then, another 
 man died of himself, and him, too, Ave ate. But 
 I can tell you no more my head is on fire at 
 the recollection ; I hardly knoAv what I say. 
 I forgot to say that we had parted c6mpany 
 Avith the second boat before now. After some 
 more days of horror and despair, when some 
 Avere lying doAVii at the bottom of the boat not 
 able to rise, and scarcely one of us could move 
 a limb, a A'essel hove in sight. We Avere taken 
 on board, and treated with extreme kindness. 
 The second lost boat Avas also picked up at sea, 
 and the survivors saved. A ship afterwards 
 sailed in search of our companions on the deso- 
 late island, and brought them ayvay." * 
 
 * The following particulars respecting tho three men 
 
 left on the island arc extracted i'ntin a religious tract, No. 
 579, issued by the Society, in Paternoster Row: "On 
 the 2Gth of December the "boats left the island : this was, 
 indeed, a trying moment to all : they separated with mu- 
 tual prayers and good wishes, seventeen venturing to sea 
 with almost certain death before them, while three re- 
 mained on a rocky isle, destitute <>(' water, and affording 
 hardly anything to support life. The pro>pects of these 
 three poor men were gloomy : they again tried to dig a 
 well, but without success, and all hope seemed at an end, 
 when providentially they were relieved by a shower of 
 rain. They were thus delivered from the immediate ap- 
 prehension of perishing l>y thiist. Their next care was to 
 procure food, and their difficulties herein we're also very 
 great ; their principal icx; urce was small birds, about the 
 si/.e of a blackbird, which they caught while at roust. 
 Bvry night they climbed the trees in search of them, and 
 obtained, by severe exertions, a scanty supply, hardly 
 enough to support life. Some of the trees bore a small 
 berry which gave them a little relief, but these they 
 found only in small quantities. Shell-tish they searched 
 for in vain; and, although from the rocks they saw at 
 time* a number of sharks, and also other sorts" of !Mi, 
 they were unable to catch any, as they had no fishing 
 tackle. Once they saw se\eral turtles, and succeeded in 
 taking five, but they were then without water : at those 
 times they had little inclination to eat, and before one of 
 them was quite finished the others were become unfit for 
 food. 
 
 " Their sufferings from want of water were the most 
 severe, their only supply being from what remained in 
 holes among the rocks after the showers which fell at in- 
 tervals; and sometimes they were five or six days without 
 any ; on these occasions they were compelled to suck the 
 l)lood of the birds they caught, which allayed their thirst 
 in some decree ; but they did so very unwillingly, as they 
 found themselves much disordered therehs. 
 
 "Among the rocks were se\eral caves formed by 
 nature, which afforded a shelter from the wind and rain". 
 In one of these caves they found eight human skeletons, 
 
156 
 
 HEATHEN FEAST AT OAHU RAIATEAN TRADITION. 
 
 Captain Pollard closed his dreary narrative 
 with saying, in a tone of despondency never to 
 he forgotten hy him who heard it " After a 
 time I found ray way to the United States, to 
 which I belonged, and got another ship. That, 
 too, I have lost hy a second wreck off the 
 the Sandwich Islands, and now I am utterly 
 ruined. No owner will ever trust me with a 
 whaler again, for all will say I am an unlucky 
 man." 
 
 April 17. We learn from Mr. and Mrs. 
 Chamberlain, that since we left the Sandwich 
 Islands Queen Kahumanu, with her husband, 
 Taumuarii, being on a visit at Oahu, attempted 
 to rc\ive idolatry there. For this purpose she 
 collected a great number of hogs and fowls, 
 which she caused to be killed, cooked, and 
 offered to the image of one of the exploded di- 
 vinities. For several days she kept up the 
 festivities of eating, drinking, and the usual 
 excesses at such orgies, having employed, in 
 order to rouse the spirits of the people, and in- 
 flame their passions, a hand of minstrels, v\ho 
 brought forth all the old drums, cross-sticks, 
 and instruments of barbarous music, that they 
 could lind, on which they made the most fright- 
 ful dissonance, accompanied by their own 
 voices, if possible more horridly untnneable, 
 while they chanted their national songs of 
 war, superstition, and lewdness. When all. the 
 provisions had been de\oured, the foolish 
 queen applied to the resident chiefs for fresh 
 supplies : but they, abhorring her conduct, told 
 her plainly, that if hogs were rained down from 
 the clouds they might, perhaps, have some to 
 spare ; but those which grow on the earth they 
 wanted for the use of themselves, their \vi\e-, 
 and their children ; they should not, therefore, 
 waste them in sacrifice to dumb idols, which 
 were only logs of wood, or blocks of stone. 
 
 in all probability the remains of some poor mariners who 
 had been ihipwncked on tin- Me. and perished lor want 
 til' ft ><>il ami water. They were side by side, as if they hail 
 lain down and died togWMf ! This Mi;ht deeply all'cctcd 
 the mate and his companions : their ca-e was similar, and 
 thr\ had e\ery reason to expert ere ImiL' the same end ; 
 f,.r 'many time- they lay down at ni-ht.with their tonuues 
 swollen and their lips parched with thirst. scarecU hoping 
 to see the morniiii; Mill ; and it is ini[>o-sil>lf to form an 
 idea of their feelini:s when the morning dawned, and they 
 found their prayers had been heard and answered by a 
 providential supply of rain. 
 
 " In this state they contiuned till the Mil of April fol- 
 lowing. <>n the inorninu' of that day the\ were in the 
 woods as usual, searehiny; for food and water, as v ell as 
 their weakness permitted, when their attention was 
 aroused by a sound which they thought was distant thun- 
 der ; bttt, looking to. v aids the s>a. they saw a .-hi]) in 
 the offini,', which had .in-t lived a -;un. Their joy at this 
 sii;ht may be more easily imagined than described : they 
 immediately fell on their knees, and thanked <;<>d for his 
 -oodnc-s. in thus sending deliverance when least ex- 
 pected; then, hastening to tl;e shore, they saw a boat 
 coming towards them. As the boat could not approach 
 tlie shore without ^reat danger, the mate, bcini: a good 
 swimmer, and stronger than his companions, plunged 
 into the sea, and pro\ identially escaped a watery irrave 
 at the moment when dclivcrarce was at hand. Hi- com- 
 panions crawled out further on the rocks, and. by the 
 j^reat exertions of the crew, were taken into the boat, 
 and soon found themselves on board the Surrey, com- 
 manded by Captain Kaine, by whom they were treated in 
 the kindest manner, and their health and strength were 
 speedily restored." 
 
 She was afterwards ashamed of her infatuation, 
 and will, probably, never again make a similar 
 attempt. 
 
 One of the Raiatean traditions respecting Taroa, 
 whom we have mentioned before as the reputed 
 father of gods and men, we have lately heard ; 
 which, though sufficiently puerile, bears such 
 analogy to one of the Hindu fables, concern- 
 ing the origin of all things, that it maybe noticed 
 here. Taroa first existed in the shape of I 
 which was buoyant high up in the etherial fir- 
 mament. Weary of rocking there, with every 
 wind that blew, he pushed his hands through 
 the shell and presently raised himself upright 
 in it. Before this all had been darkness about 
 him ; now all was light. Looking down from 
 this elevation he saw the sand on the sea-shore, 
 and said to it, " Sand, come up to me." The 
 sand replied, " I belong to the earth, and cannot 
 Hy up to you in the sky." Then he said to the 
 rocks, " Come up to me." The rock 
 " \\ e are rooted in the ground, and cannot leave 
 it to leap up to you." Thereupon he came 
 down to them nm! cast his shell, which, being 
 added to the substance of the world, prodi- 
 giously increased its bulk. lie then peopled it 
 with human beings that were produced from his 
 hack. In the end he himself was transformed 
 into a canoe ; when, being out at sea, in a great 
 storm, and carrying a crew of islanders the hol- 
 low of the vessel was filled with liquor, which, 
 being baled out with calabashes, proved to be 
 his blood, and quickly discoloured the sea, 
 from which, however, it was (allied into the 
 air and diffused over the morning and tin 
 ing clouds to add to the glories of day-break 
 and sunset. \Vh ther the canoe was metamor- 
 phosed back again into the B01 ap- 
 pear, but Taroa'* skeleton, alter his mortal 
 career on earth had been run, was laid upon 
 the land, the back-bone upwards and the ribs 
 resting upon the ground. Th< I house 
 for all the gods, and thenceforward the idol- 
 tcmples in llaiatea, were open sheds consisting 
 of thatched roofs, supported on posts, accord- 
 ing to the ca^e-like model of Taroa's relics. 
 
 1'ahi, the chief judge, and one of Tamatoa's 
 brothers, is said to have been the tirst of am of 
 these islanders who dared to burn hi- 
 Being at Tahiti, during the first awakening 
 there, when the gospel hair laid hold of the 
 hearts of many people, though the struggle be- 
 tween liu:ht and darkness, nature and uraee, 
 was yen sharp, and the issue doubtful one 
 night he dreamed that an exceeding la: . 
 fierce cat had pounced upon him and torn his 
 face in a shocking manner. He awoke i: 
 consternation, but falling asleep dreamed the 
 same thing again, and a third time. He then 
 said to himself, " This is my rarua ino, which 
 has disturbed me ; I will destroy it.'' 
 day, persevering in his purpose, he seized the log 
 of wood which he had heretofore worshipped, 
 threw it into the flames of his oven, and baked 
 some bread-fruit with it. The idolaters \\ 
 tounded at his audacity, in burning his god, but 
 more so when they saw him eat the bread- 
 fruit, which he took out of the hot ashes, not 
 
LAND-CRABSDEPARTURE FOR HUAHINE. 
 
 157 
 
 only with impunity, but with a good appetite. 
 Pomare, at the time, was very angry with Pahi 
 for what he had done, but soon afterwards imi- 
 tated his example and thus set one to his sub- 
 jects which they failed not to follow. 
 
 April 22. Two land-crabs, of a singular spe- 
 cies, which are found only upon a motu, nine 
 miles north of Borabora, were sent to us. The 
 natives call them ua. These two were of different 
 sizes and colours ; the one red, the other blue ; 
 but they were alike in form. The larger was ele- 
 ven inches long from point to tail. The head, 
 which is oval, measured three inches, and is 
 armed with a strong spike in front, as well as 
 furnished, on either side, with a pair of sensi- 
 tive antenna?, each of which branches off into 
 two, towards the extremity. Under the spike 
 are the eyes, set in two projecting tubes, each 
 a full inch long. The body is Hat and oval, 
 widest towards the tail, and about twice the 
 size of the head. The abdomen, which is se- 
 cured by a tough shell, is brown, and, in the 
 animal which we opened, was full of ova. The 
 main claws, in our specimen, were of unequal 
 bulk ; the largest extended to eight and a half 
 inches : two inferior ones, also equipped with 
 pincers, but not exceeding live inches, were 
 placed in the rear of the body. Between these 
 weapons of war, or implements of labour, in 
 procuring subsistence (as occasion might require 
 them for one service or the other), are four 
 legs, two on either side, each consisting of four 
 joints, and terminating in a straight sharp 
 claw. On these, when the creature walks, it 
 el. -\ates itself, as on stilts, being thirteen inches 
 long, and raising the body at least a foot above 
 the ground, on which it moves \\ith consider- 
 able, though awkward, facility. The tail, much 
 resembling that of a lobster, has joints which 
 allow it to be folded under the body. 
 
 These animals live under the cocoa-nut trees, 
 and subsist upon the fruit which they find on 
 the ground. "With their powerful front-claws 
 they tear off the fibrous husk ; afterwards, in- 
 srrting one of the sharp points of the same into 
 a hole at the end of the nut, they beat it with 
 violence against a stone till it cracks ; the shell 
 is then easily pulled to pieces, and the precious 
 fruit within devoured at leisure. Sometimes, 
 by widening the hole with one of their round 
 gimblet-claws, or enlarging the breach with 
 their forceps, they effect sufficient entrance to 
 enable them to scoop out the kernel without 
 the trouble of breaking the unwieldy nut. 
 These crabs burrow in the earth, under the 
 roots of the trees that furnish them with pro- 
 vision prudently storing up in their holes 
 large quantities of cocoa-nuts, stripped of the 
 husk, at those times when the fruits are most 
 abundant, against the recurring intervals when 
 they are scarce. We are informed that if the 
 long and delicate antennre of these robust crea- 
 tures be touched with oil they instantly die. 
 They are not found on any of these islands ex- 
 cept the small coral ones, aforementioned, of 
 which they are the principal occupants. The 
 people here account them delicious food. 
 
 April 2G. Having settled our official concerns, 
 
 we believe, to the satisfaction of the Mission- 
 aries and their congregation ' of Christian be- 
 lievers, after solemn deliberations on several 
 points, both of personal, local, and general in- 
 terest, early this morning we went on board the 
 small vessel which was to convey us, accom- 
 panied by Mr. Orsmond, to Huahine. Having 
 a favourable gale we reached the settlement in 
 Fare Harbour about noon, aiid were received, 
 as at our former visits here and everywhere else 
 we have been, with the kindest demonstrations 
 of joy. 
 
 May 1 and 2. These were " red-letter days," 
 in Huahiue, or rather to be remembered in the 
 calendar, according to another mode of regis- 
 tering days of distinguished happiness by de- 
 positing a white stone among the black, red, 
 brown, and other coloured ones that were laid 
 up in succession to keep the tale and designate 
 the character of each in the year. On the 
 former was held the annual Missionary meet- 
 ing: on the latter the revised code of laws, 
 corresponding in most respects with those 
 adopted in the adjacent islands, was read and 
 adopted after due discussion. Among other 
 remarks, made by the various speakers, one ob- 
 served, " The law will never do us any harm 
 unless we break it ; then indeed, like a serpent, 
 it will turn again and bite." 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 Embarkation for Tahiti Captain Dupcrre in Matavai 
 Hay Tomb of Pomare Three Thousand IVrsons 
 attend Divine Service at once Missionary Meeting - 
 First Stone of Chanel laid at Papeete" Feast on 
 that Occasion Kites formerly used on laying the 
 Foundation-stones of Maraea and Uoyal Residences 
 rnsrttlcd State of the Government of Tahiti Houses 
 tabued An Kartluniake Names and Abode of first 
 native Converts Punishment for drinking Ava Cap- 
 tain Kiggs, his Escape Ferocity of Marqnesans. 
 
 1823. MAY 12. After a weary week of alternate 
 calms and thwarting winds at sea in accom- 
 plishing a voyage which, under favourable cir- 
 cumstances, may be performed in twelve hours, 
 we had the inexpressible pleasure to reach the 
 harbour of Pape etc at noon. Here our Tahi- 
 tian friends once more bade us welcome to that 
 island of the west, whose celebrity in the 
 journals of former navigators had attracted the 
 attention of the world to hundreds of others 
 scattered over the face of the Pacific, form- 
 ing an entire class of countries, peoples, and 
 tongues, intimately akin to each other, but con- 
 siderably different from all previously known 
 regions in their inhabitants and their lan- 
 guages. 
 
 A French corvette of discovery, la Coquillc, 
 being at anchor, in Matavai Bay, Captain I)u- 
 perre, its commander, accompanied by a young 
 gentleman who speaks English, came on shore 
 and was introduced to us. The ship left France 
 eight months ago, being furnished with all re- 
 quisite means to effect the objects of its voyage 
 by the liberality of government. The captain 
 and his companion appeared much surprised 
 and delighted with the present state of things 
 at Tahiti, so different (and so superior, in the 
 best sense of the term) from what they expected 
 
J58 MISSIONARY MEETING FOUNDATION-STONE OF CHAPEL LAID. 
 
 to find, after reading the accounts of Cook, 
 Bougainville, and other early visitors.* 
 
 * The following is a faithful translation of an auto- 
 graph extract from Captain (now Admiral) Duperrey's 
 letter to the* Minister of the Marine in France, written in 
 Matavai Hay, ill Tahiti, on board the corvette La Co- 
 quille, ami given ("unsolicited) by Captain Duj . 
 liis own cabin to G. Bennct, on the- llth May, 1823. 
 And as the intelligent and honourable Admiral Du- 
 perrey's visit to Tahiti was within two or three months of 
 that of the mendacious Kotzebue, this extract (the ori- 
 yinitl autograph may IK- seen by any one who chooses to 
 call on Mr. HenneO may servo to place the (icrman 
 calumniator in something like his just position: 
 
 " The :5rd of May, 1823. We had at length the sweet 
 satisfaction of putting an end to all our anxieties, (hi 
 the rising of the sun the sky cleared itself: the black 
 vapours which unceasingly until then hounded our 
 hori/.oii were dispersed ; ami all at once the isle of Tahiti 
 presented to our regard the rich and seducing produc- 
 tions which nature has spre.ul with such prodigality over 
 her soil. "We ranged along the N. K. coa~t at 
 ciently short distance to be aoleto design with exactness 
 all the sites which the rapidity of our pas-.n;e ranged to 
 I \ary each instant. At length we reached Point I'mim 
 at 7 minutes past 4 p. M. We am.-hored in Mata\ai Hay, 
 I iet \\cen that point and the Dolphin Dank, in 1C fathoms, 
 bottom black sand. 
 
 " Captains Wallis, Kougainviile, Cook, and Van- 
 couver, ha;i been surrounded (when here) with 
 I a number of canoes, that we vere \ery mini; 
 
 no! to MC any canoe., direct their course towards uv We 
 learned presently, however, that everybody was gone 
 to church. Hut on the morrow morning the number ot 
 islanders who brought us pro-, isions of all kiln! 
 great that we were quite unable to count them. 
 
 " The island of Tahiti is, at the pre.-ent day, so differ- 
 ent from what it was in the days of Captain Cook, that 
 it is impossible for me to give you a complete idea in a 
 letter >:i abridged, and besides \\ ritten in so much haste ; 
 but 1 can give you the general results, i 
 know thai Messrs, the Missionaries of the London Mis- 
 sionary Society have totally changed the direction of the 
 manners and customs of these people. Idolatry no more 
 exists, Christianity is generally adopted. TtttWOHMO 
 are actually of so extraordinary a reserve, that they no 
 more come on l>oard any of tin- ships, &c., and even 
 when you meet them on shore you cannot by auv means 
 come in contact with them. 
 
 " Marriages take place amongst them as in F.urope, 
 and the king himself is subjected to ha\e but his own 
 wife. The women are admitted to the tables of their 
 husbands. That infamous society, the Armies, as also 
 human sacrifice's, and the bloody' wars to which these 
 people had so long delhercd themselves up. have no 
 more place since Is ID. 
 
 " All the natives are able to read and write ; they have 
 in their hands books of religion, (the Bible.) written in 
 their own language, and printed nt Tahiti, or Kimeu (or 
 lliHihiiir). Six. large (maynijitiues') churches have been 
 constructed round the island, ana all the people go 
 thither twice every week, and with great devotion listen to 
 the preachers. One there often sees many individuals tak- 
 ing notes of the most interest ing passages in the di-cour-e. 
 
 Mes.-rs. the Missionaries a-sembh- annually the 
 whole population of the island, at the church at Popooa. 
 Thi-< population in isiti consisted of 7000 souls. The 
 convocation of this year is taking place at the moment 1 
 v\rite to your Kxccllency ; they are now discussing the 
 articles of a code of laws proposed by the Mission ; and 
 one there sees the Tahitian chiefs stand up (in succes-ioni 
 and speak for hours, with a tone and earnestness truly 
 
 admirable. 
 
 " All the knowledge the natives have is drawn from 
 th.- Missionaries, for whom they have the greatest vene- 
 ration. The Mission has perfectly lo.ided me, and the 
 inhabitants have heaped upon me provisions and curio- 
 sities, which 1 have obtained for the merest trifle. 
 
 " 1 regret, my Lord, not to be able .to give yon more 
 details. The lively interest which this island" presents 
 invites me aain to go on shore, and I defer until 1 get to 
 1'oit .lacksou, towards which I now direct my course, in- 
 forming you of all that which may be worthy to tix the 
 attention of the moralist. 
 
 " Mv Lord, 1 have the honour to be, &c. 
 
 DUPERK1-Y." 
 
 May 14. This being the time appointed for 
 the annual meetings of the Missionary Society, 
 to be held at Papaoa, in the great chapel built 
 by the late Pomare, we sailed from 1'ape ete 
 thither in the morning. As we approached the 
 landing-place, long lines of people men, wo- 
 men, and children in their various picturesque 
 dresses, were walking along the beach towards 
 the place of resort, or coining in streams out of 
 the openings between the mountains, while 
 multitudes of canoes were pulling up the . 
 towards the shore. We proceeded to tin 
 of the present king, Pomare the Second, which 
 stands close by the sepulchre of his father. The 
 latter is a small plastered buildin_ 
 feet long by twelve broad, with \viml 
 each side, and a wide entrance at one end. On 
 the floor stands the tomb, a stone structure 
 with a wooden roof, three feet high, but 
 jviiiL r ne. uly the whole interior area of the 
 house. Herein is deposited the coiHn of 1'..- 
 inare, which is of great size; but it is under- 
 stood that since interment the bones of the 
 
 I kiiiLj have been removed into B 
 box, which is in the keeping of some of the 
 principal chiefs, that, in 
 out at any future time, these relics may D 
 into an enemy's hands. 
 
 The young king (only three years <>'. 
 attended bj Aimata his sister, and her In 
 proceeded with us to the chapel, the prodigious 
 dimensions of which have been formerlv 
 There the space being too narrow in proportion 
 to the length, and the multitude too - ; 
 any human voice to be distinctly heard tl; 
 out, Mr. Orsmond preached to one portion of 
 the audience (probably a thousand persons) 
 and Air. Barff to the remainder (about two 
 thousand); the former from Isaiah \i. 
 " The wolf also shall dwell with the laml . 
 and the latter from Matt. xv. 'M : And 
 said, I have compassion on the multitude." 
 The utmost stillness and attention pr< 
 and. without disturbing each other, both con- 
 gregations were editied by their respective 
 preachers. Even when they sani: at CM. 
 so great was the distance hetwoen, that tin- 
 voices were not unpleasantly heard at the other. 
 The officers of the French corvette, and all the 
 principal chiefs of Tahiti and Eimeo, were pre- 
 sent. After forenoon service, dinner v\ 
 vided at the kind's house for the visitors, amonir 
 whom we were included. Mr. Nott pr 
 in the afternoon. 
 
 May 15. The meeting for transacting the 
 Missionary business was held this day. 
 nao, the regent, was called to the chair. Vari- 
 ous resolutions were passed, and sj 
 made by natives as well as the Mis.sionari 
 contributions consisted of bamboos of cocoa-nut 
 oil, balls of arrow-root (maranta arundu 
 baskets of cotton, hogs, &c., and were very con- 
 siderable. 
 
 June 5. This day the foundation-stone of a 
 new chapel was laid here (at 1'apo ete) by 
 young Pomare, in the presence of the queen, 
 his sister, Aimata, and her husband, tl, 
 sionarics, the Deputation, the native chiefs, and 
 
AN EARTHQUAKE FIRST CONVERTS IN TAHITI. 
 
 159 
 
 the inhabitants of this district. The ceremony 
 was accompanied with hymns of praise, a dedi- 
 cation prayer, and a discourse by Mr. Crook, 
 from the words, " Other foundation can no 
 man lay than that is laid, which is Jesus 
 Christ." 1 Cor. iii. 11. The greatest order 
 and quietness prevailed ; the people sat upon 
 the ground under the shade of overspreading 
 trees. 
 
 A feast upon the usual magnificent scale was 
 prepared, of which a thousand persons partook. 
 The provisions were divided into portions, 
 according to the various classes of guests, 
 namely, the royal family and chiefs, the Mis- 
 sionaries and the Deputation, the enrolled mem- 
 bers of the church of Pape etc, the baptized 
 who were not members, the unbaptized, and 
 the convicts (those who for their offences were 
 employed on the public works), and lastly for 
 the Lnglish residents in the neighbourhood. 
 These, like the multitude whom the Redeemer 
 miraculously fed in the wilderness, sat down by 
 hundreds and by fifties, for " there was much 
 rrass in that place." After all had eaten and were 
 satisfied they gathered up the fragments that 
 nothing might be lost, and carried to their 
 homes food enough for another feast there. 
 Some of those present (and there were many) 
 who remembered the bloody rites and other 
 enormities of past times when the foundation- 
 stone of a marae was laid, or the first stake 
 driven of a new house for the king when new 
 houses were necessarily frequent from the fra- 
 gility of their materials and structure were 
 deeply affected at the contrast presented to their 
 eyes and their hearts this day. Then the work 
 was begun iii murder ; out of the assembled 
 multitude the prince or the priest would sud- 
 denly mark one at least for slaughter, when, 
 on a sct-ri't signal understood by the ruffians 
 employed, the brains of the victim were knocked 
 out, or he was run through witli a spear, and 
 the body warm, bleeding, palpitating with 1111- 
 extinguished life was hurried into the hole 
 dug tor the coral-block or the wooden post, 
 which being forthwith planted upon his breast, 
 the earth was trodden down about it by savages 
 who had no more sympathy with human suffer- 
 ing than the soil beneath their feet, and placed 
 as little value on human life as the stones and 
 tin- logs of which their kings' houses or their 
 devils' houses (the maraes) were built. 
 
 Since the death of Pomare, the government, 
 in consequence of the infancy of his son, has 
 been in a very unsettled state. The regent, 
 the old chief Mananao, has acted on several 
 occasions in a very arbitrary manner. The 
 queen is not the widow of the late king, but 
 ter, who, being the elder, takes prece- 
 dence of her. The widow, however, has the 
 guardianship of her own child, and, there being 
 no stipulated tribute paid by the subjects here 
 for the support of the royal family, means little 
 creditable are sometimes adopted to supply their 
 daily wants. For example, she has lately been 
 on a mendicant tour through a great part of her 
 little son's dominions. The boy is carried in 
 the arms of a stout soldier, and shown to his 
 
 faithful people, to whom, when they came out 
 of their dwellings, he is instructed to say, 
 " Buaa (hog), maia (plantain)," or the name 
 of anything else food, apparel, utensil, or fur- 
 niture which the prudent mother may fancy 
 on the spot ; and these are immediately and 
 joyfully given in almost every instance. A dis- 
 pute now subsists between the chiefs and their 
 dependants, the former insisting on being main- 
 tained, as formerly, out of the produce of the 
 lands held by the latter ; but these, questioning 
 the right thus claimed, as far as they can without 
 open violence, resist it, but are exceedingly will- 
 ing to support the royal family. Till the new 
 code of laws shall be adopted these differences 
 must prevail, and continue to produce un- 
 happy effects.* 
 
 June 8. We regret to find a remnant of the 
 old superstition here, which Pomare, the late 
 king, cherished from politic motives, to secure 
 the reverence which he claimed from his sub- 
 jects towards himself and his family. Whatever 
 belonged to him or any of his blood was sacred. 
 Hence there are many houses which, having 
 been built, or occupied, or entered casually by 
 him, are thus tabued, and no woman dare sit 
 down or cat in them ; nor will any person of 
 that sex taste food which has come from the 
 royal table, or which has been even touched by 
 one of Pomare's kindred. At the late feast 
 some spare victuals, which were brought to Mr. 
 Crook's house, were given away by one of his 
 female domestics, because the queen had dined 
 in company with us on that day. The infant 
 king, on the same occasion, running about, and 
 playi.ig on the ground, happened to touch, with 
 his foot, some fruit which lay in his way ; 
 whereupon the same servant would not ven- 
 ture to keep it for her own use. 
 
 This and the neighbouring islands exhibiting 
 indubitable signs of volcanic ravages probably, 
 indeed, having been originally heaved from the 
 depths of the immense ocean, on which they 
 appear but as specks amidst the waste of water 
 we have repeatedly inquired of the natives 
 whether they had any tradition of such convul- 
 sion in ancient times ; but we have never been 
 able to gather the fragment of a record that 
 seemed to bear upon this subject. Even earth- 
 quakes are very rare ; the only one that occa- 
 sioned great alarm, in the memory of the oldest 
 inhabitants, took place a few days before the 
 arrival of the ship Duff, with the first Mis- 
 sionaries. Hence the people attributed that 
 strange calamity to the prayers of the latter, 
 and called the vessel which brought them 
 Tarapu, which signifies a rocking of the ground. 
 On this occasion there were three considerable 
 shocks, the first in the morning, the second to- 
 wards sunset, and the third before midnight. 
 Many persons, sitting, standing, or walking, 
 were thrown down, and lay trembling with ter- 
 ror, while their wicker houses were shaken to 
 pieces about them. The utmost consternation 
 prevailed, men and animals alike being panic- 
 struck and confounded. We have not heard of 
 
 * These points have boon satisfactorily arranged by the 
 adoption of the code referred to, in April 1824. 
 
1GO PUNISHMENT FOR DRINKING AV A FEROCITY OF MARQUESAS. 
 
 any fatal accident ; but the immediate destruc- 
 tion of the island was naturally expected by the 
 inhabitants, to whom the notion of land, moving 
 like water, was equally new and appalling. 
 About the same time a tornado, unexampled in 
 devastating violence, passed over the islands, 
 sweeping down forests and plantations of bread- 
 fruit, cocoa-nut, and other trees, on which the 
 people principally depended for subsistence. 
 This tremendous visitation was necessarily fol- 
 lowed by a famine, during which the universal 
 distress from the want of food was aggravated 
 to a very high degree before the earth, super- 
 abundantly fertile at all times, could recover 
 from the effects of such havoc, and furnish the 
 usual supplies of food for man and beast. Hur- 
 ricanes, however, as well as earthquakes, are 
 very rare in these regions, the climate -being 
 singularly equal and tranquil. The range of 
 the barometer is generally between 2i) ; ' and 
 
 3( Vo- 
 
 J une 14. We walked up the valley of Hau- 
 taua, to visit the place where " men began to call 
 upon the name of the Lord," in Tahiti, after 
 the voice of tin- Missionary had cried, but seemed 
 to have cried in vain, for fifteen years in the wil- 
 derness, " Prepare ye the way of the Lord ; 
 make straight in the desert a highway for our 
 God. Every valley shall be exalted, and every 
 mountain and hill shall be made low !" 
 
 And verily this valley was exalted in the 
 year 1S13. King Pomare had but lately re- 
 turned to Tahiti, after long expatriation by his 
 insurgent subjects, whom he had not yet re- 
 duced to entire allegiance; and the Mission- 
 aries, who had accompanied him in his exile to 
 Eimeo, were yet residing in the latter island ; 
 the field of evangelical labour, which they had 
 painfully cultivated in the former, lying \vaste 
 meanwhile to the eye of man; not so to the e\e 
 of Him who had never for a moment ceased to 
 watch over it, as the selected spot on which the 
 first fruits of the gospel should be produced 
 under his own sole influence and observation. 
 It was in this sequestered spot that tin- two 
 natives, Otto and Titahinc (formerly domesti- 
 cated with the Missionaries, and consequently 
 under their instruction, though heretofore they 
 had given little evidence of improvement) began 
 to pray to pray in secret, and to pray toge- 
 ther. 
 
 When we reached the place it had a^ain 
 lapsed to the wilderness, the population having 
 removed from the vicinity to the coast for the 
 advantage of residing near the Missionaries, 
 and only visiting it to gather the fruits, in their 
 seasons, that grow, in exuberance and without 
 cultivation, here as everywhere else in these 
 fertile recesses, between mountains whose very 
 rocks are often wooded, through their fissures, 
 up to the summits. As soon as the Mission- 
 aries in Eimeo, heard the strange tidings of a 
 praying people being thus suddenly raised up 
 in the valley of Hautaua, they hastened to see 
 what God had wrought ; and their toils, their 
 sullorings, tears, and prayers, through years on 
 years of faith and patience, fear and hope, were 
 well repaid repaid a thousand and ten thou- 
 
 sand fold, by the joy of hearing, seeing, feeling 
 the grace of God, thus manifested, in his own 
 good time and his own best way. Then, to 
 their work, when they came back out of banish- 
 ment, with renewed strength, renewed zeal, 
 renewed love, they might have taken up the 
 song of those of old, in their own characters, 
 having experienced both the mournful and the 
 joyous burthen of the strain: " When the Lord 
 turned again the captivity of Zion, we were 
 like them that dream. Then was our mouth 
 filled with laughter, and our tongue with sing- 
 ing. They that sow in tears shall reap in joy. 
 He that goeth forth, and weepeth, bearing pre- 
 cious seed, shall doubtless come fit/a in with 
 rejoicing, bringing his sheaves with him." 
 Psalm cxxvi. 1, 2 5, 6. 
 
 June 17. Twenty men, all belonging to the 
 fcia aroha (the heedless or unconverted), have 
 just been tried and found guilty of drinking aca, 
 a rank inebriating spirit, prepared by the detest- 
 able process of a number of persons chewing 
 the root and spitting the decoction from their 
 mouths into a bowl. They were condemned to 
 a punishment which one might suppose must 
 be pleasanter to undergo than the enjoyment 
 of the horrid beverage for which they incurred 
 it : they were sentenced to make a large garden 
 for the king. 
 
 June 18. Captain Riggs, of the General 
 Gates, just arrived from the Marquesas, informs 
 us that he had a narrow escape for his life then . 
 At the island of Nukahiva, as he was attempt- 
 ing to go on shore, a native chief, assisted ly a 
 posse of dependants, seized and carried him oft, 
 stripped him of his clothing, and then pr. 
 him to the king, an infirm old man, who took 
 him under his protection. That pro:. 
 however, could have little availed him, for the 
 sovereign had not power to set the prisoner at 
 liberty unless a suitable random were paid for 
 him. The captors first demanded five muskets 
 and live barrels of gunpowder, which beim; 
 agreed to they rose in their insolent extortion 
 and required more; and this also being con- 
 ceded they still refused to liberate him unless 
 their rapacity were further gratified. The cap- 
 tain then resolutely stood out, and ins; 
 beinir set at liberty, at the same time having 
 small hope of obtaining it, or any other issue of 
 his captivity, except to be killed and eaten by 
 the cannibals, some of whom had conspired to 
 spear him, but the king's authority retrained 
 their violence. At length, however, the terms 
 of ransom being settled, he was ordered to In- 
 released ; but here an unexpected difficulty- 
 arose : the law of the land requires that who- 
 e\cr captures another, onboard of a boat, must, 
 when the prisoner is set at liberty, carry him 
 down to the water again and reinstate him in 
 the same situation as he was found. This the 
 cowardly and treacherous chief, who had readily 
 acted the part of kidnapper, was unwilling to 
 do, lest he should be shot from the ship. The 
 obligation, however, being indispensable, he 
 obtained the captain's assurance that no harm 
 should be attempted against him, and then per- 
 formed' the ungracious office. When Captain 
 
RUSSIAN CAPTAIN LAZAROFF DIFFICULT LAW CASE. 
 
 1G1 
 
 Riggs had reached his vessel the natives oil the 
 shore gave three hideous howls, which were re- 
 turned by three hearty cheers of the crew. The 
 same evening an attempt was made to cut the 
 ship's cahle, but the fellow who had undertaken 
 this capital sendee, and who was a great chiefs 
 son, was detected and shot in the act for his 
 temerity. It was afterwards discovered that 
 some more successful adventurer had fastened a 
 rope to the rudder, under water, with the in- 
 tention of hauling the ship on shore as soon as 
 the anchor should be weighed. Enraged at 
 such desperate and determined hostility, the 
 captain ordered his people to fire upon the 
 savages both with muskets and cannon, when 
 several were killed and others wounded ! We 
 lamented to learn such things concerning the 
 poor inhabitants of those islands, who are dis- 
 tinguished above all others in these seas for 
 their ferocity and inhospitality ; but for whose 
 conversion to a better mind, by the only means 
 that can soften those whom no man can tame, 
 the hearts of our Tahitian Christians, as well 
 as the Missionaries, have long been yearning. 
 But we afterwards learned from Capt. Riggs 
 himself, in Mr. Crook's house at Pape ete, 
 that their reason for seizing him was his having 
 previously deceived them in barter ; having 
 promised, if they would bring him hogs, bread- 
 fruit, &c., he would give them in return muskets, 
 gunpowder, axes, and adzes ; but when they 
 had (U divered the hogs and vegetables, Capt. R. 
 irave them only a few knives, fish-hooks, and 
 some powder mixed with charcoal, saying In- 
 had no muskets which he could spare, and had 
 no axes or adzes ! 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 Russian Ciiptnin La/arofY Decision on a diflicnlt Point 
 of Tahitian Law Imposture's of ancient l'ri<' 
 s.iltic Formation Mountain-peak of Arol'eiia 
 lict-nt Scenery 'Valley of Arofena A perilous Feat- 
 Visit to Pa'para Presents of native Articles The 
 Kara trefrOpeoing of a Chapel Fare na Atua, or 
 House of ; , God Rugged Wayi iuto the Interior of 
 Tahiti A Mountain Lake. 
 
 1S2JJ. JULY 21. Captain Lazaroff, of His Im- 
 perial Russian Majesty's frigate, the Cruiser, 
 uns, ha\ing just arrived in the harbour 
 of Matavai, paid us a friendly visit and invited 
 us to dine with him on board of his vessel. He 
 ami sewral of his officers speak tolerable Eng- 
 lish ; and we found them polite and intelli- 
 gent. 
 
 July 24. When the queen, with young Po- 
 maie, the other day, went on board of the Rus- 
 sian frigate, at anchor here, they were received 
 with distinguished honours. The captain got 
 the people who accompanied his royal guests to 
 procure the Tahitian ila- from shore'; which, 
 having obtained, he hauled upon some part of 
 the rigging. He was very liberal of his pre- 
 sents and rook great pains to impress upon the 
 minds of his visitors that they and his country- 
 men were friends and neighbours, who ought 
 to live on terms of the most pleasant intercourse. 
 He pressed them also to accept a Russian iiag, 
 and hoist it on shore. This equivocal gift, 
 
 however, they resolutely declined, but were 
 otherwise much pleased with his civilities. It 
 is shrewdly suspected, that 'he has some more 
 politic purpose in view than putting in here for 
 wood and water. Be that what it may, these 
 islands are not worth stealing, either by Russia, 
 America, or England. If they had offered any 
 booty in the shape of gold, silver, or precious 
 stones, to tempt the cupidity^ of Europeans, our 
 own countrymen would long ago have secured 
 possession of them. But cocoa-nuts, bread- 
 fruits, and plantains, may flourish uiipluiidercd 
 by us to the end of time. 
 
 July 29. A case came before the justice- 
 court this morning, which proves that laAVS, in 
 the simplest as well as in the most complicated 
 diction, are sometimes difficult of interpreta- 
 tion, and allow ample opportunity for special 
 pleading. Nine young men and hoys who had 
 been in the mountains stole a hog, which they 
 killed and baked for their own use. They were 
 apprehended and arraigned for the offence. 
 The fact was admitted, but a question arose as 
 to the punishment to be inflicted. The law in 
 the case states, that if a pig be stolen the thief 
 shall restore it fourfold. Here, however, were 
 nine thieves : was each then to deliver four 
 hogs for the one that had been taken, which 
 would have amounted to thirty-six in all; or 
 were four hogs to be furnished by the whole 
 gang, who were as one man in the robbery'? 
 For the defendants it was argued that the legal 
 compensation to the owner was plainly four 
 hogs for one, and no more. But, for the prose- 
 cutor, it was answered that each of the pri- 
 soners at the bar, having been individually 
 guilty of stealing a hog, ought to pay the same 
 damages as though he had been the only thief, 
 otherwise he would suffer only the ninth part of 
 the punishment prescribed by the law. More- 
 over, a precedent was quoted, according to 
 which the late Pomare, where a number of per- 
 sons had been convicted of a similar offenee, 
 ordered each to pay four hogs for that which 
 they had stolen in company. After much in- 
 genious discussion and due deliberation the 
 judges decided that, however ambiguous the 
 'letter of the law might be, the spirit and pur- 
 pose of it were obvious namely, that property 
 fourfold in value was meant to be restored to 
 the loser ; consequently that four hogs should 
 be paid for one stolen, without reference to the 
 number of accomplices in the crime. Had the 
 punishment prescribed been personal, then each 
 transgressor must have suffered the full amount 
 of infliction, as individually guilty of the whole 
 offence. 
 
 In conversation with Aihere, one of the dea- 
 cons of the church, on whose veracity we can 
 depend, he told us of one of the favourite tricks 
 of priestcraft formerly practised when the plun- 
 der to be gained was worth the trouble. They 
 had taught the people that, when a person died, 
 his spirit could go and take possession of the 
 body of some stranger ; and who became mad as 
 soon as he was thus seized. In such cases the 
 priest (being of course in collusion with the 
 knave, who affected to be insane and to speak 
 
162 
 
 IMPOSTURES OF ANCIENT PRIESTS BASALTIC FORMATION. 
 
 with a voice like the departed) was sent for, to 
 pray over the pretended patient, and employ 
 divers incantations till his senses came back to 
 him. Afterwards the spirit of the dead man led 
 the living one to the son, brother, or other kins- 
 man, who inherited his property; when the 
 stranger, laying hold of the arm of such survivor, 
 said, " I am your late relative ; I am come again 
 to live with you, and share the goods which you 
 have acquired by my death." The impostor 
 would then enumerate various articles whit- h the 
 deceased had possessed ; and his knowledge of 
 these (probably communicated to him by the 
 priest) was generally received as evidence that 
 the spirit of the dead man had actually transmi- 
 grated into the body of the stranger, who was 
 accordingly Deceived into the family in the same 
 relationship as the former had filled ; and which 
 lasted just so long as the spoil could be enjoyed, 
 or till it could be carried off. The priest, at any 
 rate, was sure to be well rewarded for having by 
 his prayers restored the lunatic to that reason 
 which he had never lost however little gratitude 
 he illicit deserve from the defrauded heir, to 
 whom he thus restored a relative whom he had 
 in appearance for ever lost. 
 
 Am,'. 7. In exploring the valley of Bunaro, 
 near Huanaauia, Mr. Darling, the Missionary at 
 this station, conducted us to a cave in one of 
 the immense masses of breccia which constitute 
 the dill's, where we were gratified with the 
 sight of one of the most remarkable and beauti- 
 ful basaltic formations in this part of the world. 
 It is called by the natives Marama ofai, or the 
 mooii-stono, on account of its resemblance in 
 shape at one end to an halt-moon. The 
 t\vel\e feet ill diameter, and ten deep. In the 
 centre of it appears this stone, presenting half of 
 a perfed cylinder, of which the other moiety i- 
 buried in the soil. The radius is four feet 
 above ground, and the visible length nine, ex- 
 tending into the cave, and dipping at an angle 
 of ten decrees \\ith the hori/on ; how far it 
 may be imbedded beyond then; is no possi- 
 bility of ascertaining, but what projects is evi- 
 dently only a small part of a column of basalt of 
 amay.ing bulk., The end is slightly hollowed, 
 to the depth of six inches, within the line of the 
 circular edge ; but both this front and the shaft. 
 to the length of six feet, are as smooth as though 
 the pillar itself had been wrought and polished 
 by the nicest art. On the sides, about the girth, 
 are some natural divisions or joints, from nine 
 to fourteen inches apart, which give it the ap- 
 pearanre of so many mill-stones, neatly attached. 
 one behind another. This singular fragment is 
 surrounded by many other circles of stone of 
 the same kind, and different thicknesses, alto- 
 gether increasing the whole diameter of the 
 cylinder to twelve feet. These concentric lunii- 
 n- having been removed to the extent above 
 mentioned (six feet), their broken ruins are dis- 
 cernible at the further end of the cave, intimat- 
 ing continuity in the bowels of the rock beyond. 
 The basalt is of a bright blue colour, very com- 
 pact and hard. It is incorporated with " upper, 
 inther, and surrounding" breccia, of which 
 the frontal pile is scarcely less than two 
 
 thousand feet above the sea, and nearly perpen- 
 dicular. 
 
 From this cave and its curiosity, enclosed like 
 a rare jewel in a casket, we proceeded to explore 
 the valley upward, and thence from steep to 
 steep, over many a perilous ridge, which seemed 
 to require the feet of goats, or rather the wings 
 of birds, to pass, and the brains of both steadily 
 to overlook, without being suddenly bewildered 
 and toppling down headlong we travelled to a 
 station from which we were informed that the 
 highest mountain of Tahiti, Arofena, might be 
 seen ; invisible from below, on account of inter- 
 vening eminences, that rise by a graduated scale 
 of narrowing circuit and increasing elevation, 
 till the whole is terminated in this stupendous 
 peak, alone amidst the firmament, and unap- 
 proachable by human foot. Having reached 
 the prospect-place at which we aimed, we found 
 ourselves still environed by richly wooded slopes 
 and terrible declivities of naked rock, as much 
 above our level now as those which we had 
 already ascended were above the sea-beach. 
 Fur in* the distance, to the south-east, Arofena 
 appeared, but only half-revealed below the 
 cloud that compassed its mysterious top to- 
 wards which, nevertheless, every eye was natur- 
 ally turned, as though the smallest point of it 
 vw-re more desirable to be seen than the whole 
 enormity of hill In-side, expanding downward, 
 and resting upon the multitude of piled-up 
 nd air-hung forests beneath. 
 
 \\ bile we g.ized the vapours -hilled, and yave 
 us, glimpse by glimp>e, now one and then 
 another section of the upper region of Arofena ; 
 but the full stature and proportion of tin- 
 son of earth we were never permitted to look 
 upon at once. The apex, which we repeatedly 
 caught, as it stood immoveable amidst the ever- 
 movinu'-elouds thai clustered round it, 
 on the western quarter perfectly perpendicular, 
 on the north making an angle of >*J, and on 
 the south 50 ; on every side being connected 
 with vast precipices, forming a stony girdle 
 round it^ breast, and losing themselves in laby- 
 rinthine, chasms, which both divided and conca- 
 tenated the everlasting hills that cnmded the 
 rill-/ and the area of the hori/on outspread at 
 the foot of Arofena. On our left hand we par- 
 ticularly remarked a solitary rang.' of blank rock, 
 high and inaccessible, shut! ing out the sky be- 
 hind, and so terminating the view, that imagina- 
 tion itself, however active and creative amidst 
 such scenes as here surrounded us, would hardly 
 have dreamed of any object beyond it, unless it 
 could have been made transparent. Yet, while 
 we took our refreshment under a shady recess, 
 and were still contemplating, with an eye " not 
 satisfied with seeing," the clouded majesty of 
 Arofena, the apparition of a rival mountain rose 
 unexpectedly from behind the craggy screen just 
 mentioned, and stood between heaven and earth 
 more as though it belonged to the former than 
 the latter. It took away our breath with amaze- 
 ment ; we knew not how to believe our senses ; 
 the sublime reality seemed begotten out of no- 
 thing; and it was some time before we could 
 reconcile and harmonize the parts of the niagni- 
 
POMARE AND THE ATEHURANS A PERILOUS FEAT. 
 
 163 
 
 ficent spectacle,, or conceive by what enchant- 
 ment its grandest feature had been so impervi- 
 ously hidden, and so suddenly disclosed, by the 
 agency of clouds, which we had unconsciously 
 disregarded both in their presence and their dis- 
 appearance. But there they stood, the mighty 
 twain, as though they were measuring heights 
 against each other, we being the judges ; and 
 verily it was hard to determine between such 
 antagonists, each worthy of the prize of the 
 highest admiration which intellectual beings can 
 bestow on unintelligent existences. We looked, 
 indeed, upon them with emotions that wound 
 up our animal spirits to a pitch of exaltation 
 rarely experienced, except while inhaling the 
 purer breath of Alpine air, and beholding the 
 veil lifted up from " great Nature's visage hoar." 
 But our thoughts went higher still ; we remem- 
 bered Him who hath been the refuge of his 
 people in all generations ; and this was the 
 inspired language of our souls: " Before the 
 mountains were brought forth, or ever Thou 
 haclst formed the earth and the world, even from 
 everlasting to everlasting, Thou art God." 
 Psa. xc. 2. 
 
 Arofena has been calculated (we know not 
 how correctly) to have an elevation of ten thou- 
 sand feet above the sea ; and the other summit 
 which we saw cannot be much lower. 
 
 Aug. 15. We walked up the valley of Arofena, 
 memorable for a sanguinary battle fought here, 
 fifteen years ago, between the late Pomare and 
 the Atehurans, the natives of this district, a 
 valiant people, and jealous of independence, 
 who were his determined opponents in his 
 schemes of universal dominion. They possessed 
 strong and hitherto impregnable parts, or fortifi- 
 cations, on the slopes of the mountains that 
 hemmed in the valley. But, by the assistance 
 of a few English sailors, the politic king got 
 possession of the eminences above these muni- 
 tions of rocks, and dislodged them by rolling 
 down upon their rear huge fragments of stone 
 an unexpected mode of assault, against which 
 no resistance could be made, since their walls, 
 eight feet high, and as many thick, being carried 
 along the flanks of the precipice to the extent of 
 several hundred yards, and slanting downward 
 to the river's margin, in the valley beneath, were 
 only calculated to protect them against an as- 
 cending force. Being driven from their rock 
 ramparts, they fled to the valley, where they 
 were met and slaughtered, like hunted animals 
 in a royal chase, when surrounded by a cordon 
 of men, horses, and dogs, drawing themselves 
 into a narrower and narrower circle, and driving 
 the game inward into closer and closer compass, 
 till a general massacre can be effected. This 
 glen in one part is so confined that the beetling 
 brows of the opposite cliffs approach within two 
 hundred feet of each other, a copious river 
 running in its darkened bed between. 
 
 A rock of this description, absolutely over- 
 hanging its base, was pointed out to us, the face 
 of which, to the height of five hundred feet, ap- 
 peared to be without a sprig of vegetation, and 
 so steep that we should have deemed it impos- 
 sible for human hands and feet to have found 
 
 climbing-hold one third of the way. Yet we 
 are informed that there is a man now living, 
 who, with a corpse in a coffin fastened to his 
 back, actually scrambled up the height above 
 mentioned to a place where there is a shelving 
 ledge ; and, having there securely deposited his 
 unwieldy load, descended in safety. This peril 
 was hazarded to place the bones of the deceased 
 beyond the reach of violation by enemies, who 
 were abroad in the neighbourhood. And we 
 are assured that such was the reverence of this 
 people to the remains of their departed friends, 
 and such the dread of their being desecrated 
 (which was the last revenge of a triumphant 
 champion over his slain antagonist), that many 
 bodies, in war-time, were thus shrined in rock 
 sepulchres, inaccessible to ordinary feet. When 
 we asked our attendant by what means such 
 feats could be performed, he answered, with 
 great simplicity, " It might be done by the help 
 of the Evil Spirit, whom we served so faithfully 
 in former times." 
 
 Aug. 16. Having taken leave of the church 
 at Buanaauia, we sailed in Mr. Darling'.s boat 
 for Papara, about sixteen miles distant ; but 
 the wind being contrary, we were obliged to 
 land when we had proceeded about half way, 
 and perform the remainder of the journey along 
 shore. 
 
 Sept. 3. Tati, the chief, with whom we dined 
 to-day, made us several presents of native manu- 
 facture ; but those which we most valued were 
 parts of the dress of Oro, including his bonnet 
 and two tawdry coverings which were cast over 
 his idol on grand occasions ; also a remnant of 
 the maro, or sacred mantle, with which Pomare 
 had been invested when he was publicly made 
 king, by a ceremonial too detestable to be 
 described. This robe had two lappets attached, 
 signifying that two monarchs had been arrayed 
 with it, and two human sacrifices offered at 
 their inauguration. The whole was overlaid 
 with red and yellow feathers, ingeniously stitched 
 upon the fibrous cocoa-nut cloth of the country. 
 Tati informed us that when Pomare abjured 
 heathenism, he ordered him (Tati) to take an 
 axe and chop his gods to pieces. Though ex- 
 ceedingly terrified with anticipation of the con- 
 sequences, should they resist and retaliate, as 
 the priests threatened, he nevertheless deter- 
 mined to put their divinity to the proof, and 
 with a trembling hand began the work, when, 
 no evil following, he completed it with all his 
 might. After the last decisive battle Pomare 
 commanded his people to go to the great marae 
 at Taiarabu, and fetch out Oro, and commit him, 
 together with all the rabble of blocks that occu- 
 pied his chamber of imagery, to the flames. 
 This was a perilous enterprise ; a few bold 
 spirits, however, were found to attempt, it. 
 These marched to the marae, but, instead of 
 entering, fired into the house where the idols 
 were kept, saying, " Now, ye gods, if ye be 
 gods, and have any power, come forth and 
 avenge the insults which we offer you." The 
 multitude who had assembled to witness the 
 sacrilege stood amazed not less at the impo- 
 tence of the deities than the rashness of their 
 
 M2 
 
164 
 
 CHAPEL OPENED A MOUNTAIN LAKE. 
 
 assailants. The house was afterwards pulled 
 down, when the wooden inhabitants were shot 
 through and through, and then consumed to 
 ashes. 
 
 Sept. 10. Our attention has been called to the 
 singular construction of the fara-tree, a species 
 of palm (pandanus spiralis), which grows abun- 
 dantly here, and with the leaves of which most 
 of the houses are thatched. The stem and 
 branches are composed of innumerable longitu- 
 dinal fibres; round which, under the bark, are 
 transverse fillets, about one inch asunder, each 
 including a bunch of from twenty to thirty 
 fibres. These circular fillets, which are exceed- 
 ingly tough, act as hoops to the trunk and 
 boughs, which without them might be in danger 
 of bursting in the progress of growth, whereas, 
 by their elastic envelopes, the fibres are enabled 
 to expand, and the tree to increase in diameter. 
 Sept. 24. At the opening of the new chapel 
 here, a hundred and twenty feet long bv,sixty 
 wide, two thousand five hundred persdfr*\vere 
 computed to be present. By desire of the peo- 
 ple themselves, young Pomifre, in the arms of 
 one of his attendants, accompanied by a body- 
 guard of seven soldiers, was taken first into the 
 building and carried all round it. He was then 
 placed beside his mother and her sister, the 
 regent queen. Afterwards the chiefs and com- 
 monalty took their seats. Formerly, when the 
 maraes'were consecrated, the king w:is always 
 the first who entered. Though unwilling to 
 countenance any ceremonial which may remind 
 the natives of their idolatrous customs, it would 
 have been hard to have hurt their loyal and 
 affectionate feelings towards the infant prince on 
 tliis occasion. 
 
 Oct. 1. Mr. Bennct obtained a fare na atna, 
 or house of a god, the only relic of the kind that 
 we have seen in these islands ;* so utter was the 
 demolition of such things oven when the idols 
 themselves were preserved Cor transportation to 
 England as trophies of the triumphs of the gos- 
 l>el. This shrine w:;s wrought out of one solid 
 block of timber ; in form it resembled a dwell- 
 ing-house, with roof and sloping ends, and was 
 three feet in length. Underneath there was a 
 cylindrical hole, having a door which closely 
 fitted the opening. This was the depository of 
 the idol. The fabric was supported on four 
 short legs resembling those of a tortoise. The 
 idol itself was of grout antiquity a female fiend, 
 hideously mis-shapen, to mimic humanity. Her 
 name was Tii Vahine, and we were told that 
 she had slain her thousands, having been held in 
 the highest veneration and worshipped from 
 time immemorial. At the general overthrow 
 of idolatry, this image and the house in which it 
 was kept were secreted, by some of her priests, 
 in a cave among the mountains, and not pro- 
 duced till lately, when the whole was brought to 
 market and sold, not for its value, but for its 
 curiosity, as a signal memento of human folly 
 and wickedness, when " such things were, and 
 were, to " rational beings " most dear and pre- 
 cious," yea, most sacred and awful. 
 
 Oct. 14. Yesterday and to-day we have been 
 Now in the Museum of the Missionary Society. 
 
 ravelling up the interior valleys, gradually 
 ascending among the rocky eminences, to visit a 
 amous lake called Pape Hira. 
 
 At the distance of fifteen miles from our 
 starting-place we reached the object of our 
 search a lonely tarn or lake about a mile in 
 circuit, of an oval form, and filled with ill- 
 coloured though sweet-tasted water, of a dirty 
 jreen and not clear, probably from being stag- 
 lant and having little vent or supply, except 
 when inundating rains swell it above the brim 
 and flood the steeps, which roll their burthens 
 down to the valley in numerous cataracts : the 
 depth is very great. Pomare is said to have 
 caused this gulf to be sounded, when, from what 
 we can learn, it was found to be from five to 
 six hundred feet. We understand, ho 
 that a French officer who fathomed it found it 
 not more than one hundred feet. It is probably a 
 volcanic crater where water has usurped the for- 
 mer seat of fire. The banks, from the margin, dip 
 very abruptly within the basin, while, on every 
 side, the peaked and wooded hills tower with 
 imposing grandeur, especially towards the north 
 and west, where, to the probable altitude of two 
 thousand feet, they seem to stand upright all the 
 way, so imperceptible is the angle of incidence. 
 Our companions say that this lake contai: 
 of enormous bulk, growing to the thickii' 
 man's thigh, and to six feet in length ; but they 
 are exceedingly fierce and difficult to catch as 
 may, indeed, be well imagined if thei; 
 ence be not rather traditional than authenti- 
 cated, no other fish inhabiting these v 
 In journeying from the northern to the southern 
 i ho island, the natives sometimes 
 choose to tako this way, hut the banks not being 
 accessible under many of the heights that hem 
 the verge, they make rafts of the stems of plan- 
 AO of which (the substance being porous 
 and light) are sufficient to support :. 
 Having fastened these together by me::: 
 
 .se stick, the person lies down upon 
 them at full length, and with his arms 
 paddles himself across, and leaves his r 
 the next traveller who wishes to return by the 
 course that he came. Many of these slight con- 
 veyances being scattered on the shore when we 
 arrived, five boys in our train immedia: 
 lected each his raft, filing himself upon it, and 
 sailed exultingly to the opposite side. All our 
 men followed their example. A gun being tired 
 a hundred echoes chased each other round the 
 hills, and the wild ducks, that brooded in their 
 quiet abodes on the water-side, rose on the wing 
 in flights that surprised us by their unexpected 
 appearance. 
 
 Here, to close the day, we enjoyed the privi- 
 lege of family worship, which was conducted in 
 the Tahitian language by Mr. Davis, 
 wards, under a temporary shed, partly erected 
 by our ingenious companions, we lay down to 
 rest, spreading our mats and blankets on the 
 ground. The natives reposed in conical tents 
 of leaves which they had constructed for thcm- 
 sel\rs. Meanwhile, during the night-watches, 
 and even till dawn i.f day, the birds sang among 
 the branches. Their notes, imh . 
 
STYLE OF ANCIENT KINGS MERIDIAN RAINBOW. 
 
 1(35 
 
 and inharmonious, but we were in solitude, and 
 their society was pleasant. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 The Deputation at Eimeo A Cow slaughtered there 
 Roby's Place Style of Ancient Kings Meridian Raiu- 
 1 )OW Old Superstitions The Deputation sail for the 
 Pearl Islands Chapel at Raivavai Taro-^rounds 
 Chapel opened Interchange of Presents Visit to Tu- 
 Imai Gospel introduced at Tubuai Difficulties about 
 the Sabbath. 
 
 1823. OCT. 30. Having visited all the stations 
 in Tahiti, and settled with the Missionaries (so 
 far as was practicable, and within! the duties of 
 our commission) all concerns referring either 
 to temporal or spiritual matters, we embarked 
 on board the Endeavour schooner, lying here, 
 this day for Eimeo, which island we reached in 
 the afternoon. Here there is but one Missiou- 
 ar\ settlement near the harbour of Taloo, ori- 
 ginally called Papetoai, but now Roby's Place, 
 in honour of the Rev. W. Roby, of Manchester 
 where most of the population reside. 
 
 Nov. 5. If, in the old religion of these islands, 
 the very name of religion was desecrated through 
 all its rites and ceremonies for doctrines and 
 precepts of morality it had none, the natural 
 pride of man, in every state of society showing 
 itself in one fastastical form of folly and ab- 
 surdity or another, here caricatured royalty with 
 its puerile and preposterous assumptions. The 
 king of every span of land was lord of the li\es 
 of liis two or three hundred subjects, and as- 
 sumed titles of distinction worthy of the great 
 Mogul, or the Emperor of China. Nothing in 
 public was said or done by him, or to him, in 
 the ordinary way. His house was called by a 
 word which denotes the clouds of heaven; his 
 canoe was the rainbow ; when he went to any- 
 place he was said to fly thither. He and his 
 queens had the sole privilege of riding across 
 men's shoulders, which was their usual mode of 
 travelling. No person was suffered to sit or 
 stand -ibove him, either within doors or on board 
 
 !, whether canoe or strange ship. When 
 he succeeded to the supreme authority he 
 altered according to his caprice a number of 
 words in the language, rejected others, and 
 substituted new ones of his own invention. 
 Circumstances sometimes caused him to change 
 his name. Old Pomarc, the grandfather of the 
 present infant king of Tahiti, having lost a son, 
 was about to bury him on the shore, when the 
 sea suddenly rushed in and filled the receptacle 
 prepared for the corpse, which the father was 
 thereupon obliged to hang upon an aito-tree. 
 After this, in memory of the incident, he chose 
 to be called Vairatoaa, the exact signilication of 
 which we have forgot. But besides their pro- 
 per names, both the kings and chiefs had official 
 ones, by which they were always addressed when 
 exercising their rights or duties. Thus Pomare 
 
 come the sovereign title of Tahiti ; but, 
 when the king of Tahiti is in Eimeo he is styled 
 Teraitua, which is the sovereign title here. 
 These are trilies certainly, but they arc charac- 
 teristic of human nature itself, infatuatedly fond 
 of singularities, however petty, provided they 
 
 imply superiority of rank. Man is everywhere 
 an aristocrat ; the tyrant and the demagogue are 
 only varieties of the species. 
 
 Nov. 7. While we were here, Mr. Henry, 
 whose herd of cattle (a bull and seven or eight 
 COAVS) we mentioned formerly, proposing to 
 treat us with something like an old English 
 dinner, had one of his cows slaughtered on the 
 outside of his compound, or enclosure about the 
 house. This was the first event of the kind, the 
 stock having hitherto been carefully bred up. 
 The skin of the slain animal was stretched upon 
 the branches of a tall tree, about four hundred 
 yards from the slaughtering-place, and the car- 
 case was removed to an out-building to be cut 
 up. Soon afterwards, while we were sitting in 
 the house, w r e heard a singularly low, then loud 
 and lamentable, noise ; and going out to see 
 what was the matter there stood the bull, 
 amidst his family of cows, near the spot yet 
 stained with blood ; all seemingly mourning in 
 pitiable tones over the fate of their companion. 
 The stately bull was pawing the sand with his 
 hoof, and casting round looks of such.fierceness 
 and defiance as made it quite prudent for us not 
 to disturb the sorrowful group. In about an 
 hour they all went away. But they were not 
 yet appeased ; for, in the course of another hour, 
 as Mr. Bennet was going that way to make a 
 call on Mr. Armitage, he observed the whole 
 herd oil their return, lowing and moaning, and 
 sometimes bellowing outright. He immediately 
 stepped within the enclosure, and watched the 
 poor animals gathered under the tree, whereon 
 was hung the skin of the dead beast. On this 
 they all gazed with strange wildness of eye and 
 evident discomposure, continuing their doleful 
 plaints nearly as long as before ; after which they 
 retired. Slaughter had never taken place among 
 their kin before, and the sensibility of these 
 animals, on the loss of their former associate, 
 was aiiecting even to human feeling. 
 
 Nov. 8. In conversation with Captain Henry, 
 he told us that on his voyage from New Holland 
 hither some years ago he had the privilege (for 
 so it may be called) to see a meridian rainbow, 
 a phenomenon of exceedingly rare appearance, 
 and which can only take place when the sun is 
 vertical, or nearly so, to the beholder. The 
 atmosphere was clouded overhead, and no doubt 
 there was rain above, though none came down ; 
 when, unexpectedly, during a brief but splendid 
 interval, an iris of great diameter, describing a 
 complete circle, with the sun in the centre, was 
 formed in the heavens, and hung over the hori- 
 zon, where no inequality of surface, as on land, 
 could break the perfect ring. The prismatic 
 colours Avere vivid, and distinctly defined, wheel 
 within wheel, on its sevenfold circumference, 
 arranged from the concave to the convex side, in 
 the same order and proportions as in the com- 
 mon rainbow. The spectacle, sublime as it Avas 
 novel, WMS hut of short duration. 
 
 Nov. 22. A circumstance occurred to-day 
 which exhibits a peculiar trait of the character 
 of these islanders their keen sense of the ridi- 
 culous, and that turn for sarcasm which distin- 
 guishes the whole people wherever we ha\e 
 
166 
 
 OLD SUPERSTITIONS DEPUTATION AT RAIVAVAI. 
 
 been. This humour was formerly indulged to 
 a mischievous excess, and even now, influenced 
 as their minds generally are by Christian princi- 
 ple, requires to be repressed rather than encou- 
 raged. On this occasion, however, they took 
 their own counsel, and the scene was singularly 
 ludicrous. A chief, having degraded himself by 
 some signal offence, was brought to trial for the 
 same by his brother chiefs, who conceived that 
 their order had been disgraced by the misconduct 
 of this unworthy member of it. As it was ne- 
 cessary for him to be tried by his peers, a certain 
 chief, not more than three feet eight inches 
 high, who, on account of his pigmy size, is held 
 in small repute among the fraternity (they, as 
 we have formerly remarked, being generally 
 " men of mighty bone" and huge stature), was 
 appointed judge. Before him, therefore, gorge- 
 ously arrayed in judicial costume, with :i fine 
 purau mat and a brilliant feather cap, the haughty 
 culprit, who would fain have looked down upon 
 him with the contempt with which a mastiff 
 eyes a cur, was forced to stand with due humility 
 and reverence. The dwarf, however, " dressed 
 in a little brief authority," played the giant 
 well ; while the giant, to his own inexpressible 
 mortification, and the delight of the bystanders, 
 enacted the part of the dwarf not less success- 
 fully, for he felt and looked as little as even his 
 accusers could desire. The court having heard 
 the evidence, on which a verdict of guilty was in- 
 stantly pronounced, the judge gathered himself 
 up in all his official dignity, lectured the criminal 
 with great but merited severity, and pronounced 
 sentence upon him with as much justice as can 
 consist without any mercy. 
 
 Formerly when the natives felled trees on the 
 mountains, after lopping the branches, they 
 paused, offered a prayer to one of their gods for 
 a safe passage, and then launched the trunk 
 down the side of the slope ; standing in silence, 
 holding their breath, and with their eyes fol- 
 lowing its course till it reached the ^ alley. 
 If any stranger who might be present uttered 
 a word while the huge bole was thus sliding 
 downward, at the peril of beini; broken when it 
 struck the ground below, they would be exceed- 
 ingly angry, considering such an interruption 
 ill luck. Once, when Mr. Henry was assi-t in- 
 some of his people to procure timber for build- 
 ing the brig Hawes, having descended from the 
 mountain to refresh himself at a brook which ran 
 at the foot of it, he sat down on the bank, and 
 was about to drink, but refrained in the instant, 
 and removed about two yards off, where access 
 to the water seemed more convenient. While 
 drinking there, a tree, which had been felled 
 above, came thundering down with such velocity 
 and force as scarcely to have been perceived by 
 him before it had plunged with the fore end 
 deep into the earth at the very spot from 
 which he had just risen. He could not regard 
 his escape as otherwise than strikingly provi- 
 dential. 
 
 Dec. 20. Having spent six weeks in delightful 
 and profitable intercourse with our Missionary 
 friends at Eimeo, and discharged our official 
 duties in reference to them and the church, we 
 
 sailed on board Captain Henry's vessel, the 
 Queen Charlotte (he being on his way to the 
 Pearl Islands with the purpose of procuring 
 shells), for Tubuai, Rahavai, and other islands 
 included in our plan of visitation. 
 
 Dec. 25. After a voyage of roiurh weather we 
 landed this day at Raivavai, or High Island, so 
 called on account of the precipitous cliffs which 
 environ its coast. We were met on the shore 
 by three native Missionaries, who had been sent 
 from Eimeo, eighteen months ago, to teach the 
 people here the way of the Lord more perfectly 
 than they had learned it from the instruction of 
 a Tahitian left among them by Pomare in 1820, 
 but who himself needed to be informed of the 
 first principles of Christianity, both in doctrine 
 and in practice, having neither well understood 
 the one nor consistently exemplified the other. 
 The converts from Eimeo have been more suc- 
 cessful, and the gospel as preached by them, not 
 only with their lips but by their lives, has 
 evinced much of its power, directly and indi- 
 rectly, in the moral and social improvement of 
 the people, who gladly received it. These good 
 men wept for joy at our arrival, and our hearts 
 were warmed towards them as the first Gentile 
 Missionaries whom we had met on ground of 
 their own planting and cultivating ; our English 
 brethren having had little opportunity of helping 
 them hitherto. 
 
 A cliapel has been built near the beach, of 
 wicker-work plastered, under their superin- 
 tendance. This structure is a hundred and 
 eighty feet long, and forty wide. The walls are 
 n feet in height, and contain forty-three 
 windows for light and ventilation, and three 
 doors. The ridge-pole of the roof is supported 
 by a row of fifteen pillars ; three of t 
 the centre, opposite to the pulpit, are symme- 
 trically formed, and curiously ornamented with 
 wreaths of human figures, carved out of the 
 solid wood. The other pillars, each forty feet 
 high, are covered with matting of divers colours, 
 ami wrought with a great variety of devices. 
 The effect of the whole interior, thus elaborately 
 embellished, is really beautiful ; and the skill, 
 ingenuity, and good taste of the labourers and 
 artists appear to great advantage. In a neigh- 
 bouring district there is another chapel little 
 inferior to this in dimensions or workmai^hip. 
 At the several corners, on the outside of the 
 latter, upon suitable platforms, stand four of the 
 deposed idols lately worshipped here. 
 which are of large size, are no despicabl- 
 mens of rude sculpture ; and certainly, as mere 
 statues, they better become the stations which 
 they now occupy than those which they formerly 
 held in the maraes. 
 
 We have been received, both by the king and 
 principal chiefs, with manifest tokens of good- 
 will, while the people everywhere gaze upon us 
 with equal curiosity and kindness, having rarely 
 seen so many transmundane strangers before; 
 being instructed, likewise, in the objects of our 
 visit to these remote regions, as the represent- 
 atives of the Christians of England, whom they 
 have been taught to reverence \\ith filial piety. 
 
 Dec. 26. We landed again, and ascended a 
 
TARO-GROUNDS CHAPEL AT RAIVAVAI OPENED. 
 
 1G7 
 
 high ridge, which separates the east and west 
 sides of the island. Here we were not only 
 gratified with the general view, which, though 
 smaller, was scarcely less exquisite in its kind 
 than most that we have seen elsewhere ; but we 
 were particularly pleased to observe the vast 
 proportion of ground, towards either shore, 
 which is planted with taro. The valleys in 
 which this useful root is grown approach each 
 other towards this central summit, consisting of 
 from two to three hundred acres each, every 
 bed being in good order, and kept quite clean 
 a circumstance indicating a large population 
 for so small a spot. This, we learn, is not less 
 than two thousand, there being eight hundred 
 men, and, as the custom of destroying children 
 never obtained here, the proportions of the 
 sexes an- nearly equalized, both among old and 
 young. The two sections of the island were 
 almost always in a state of hostility before the 
 introduction of the religion of Christ, the Prince 
 of peace. The mountain-ridge on which we 
 were standing was then the boundary of each, 
 whence, on the Hanks, their petty wars were 
 carried on by means of spears and stones, in the 
 use of which, for every evil purpose, they were 
 remarkably expert. The slain in battle were 
 ottered to their god, Oronuitipapa probably 
 one of the numerous personifications of Oro, 
 the universal .Moloch of the South Pacific 
 tribes. 
 
 Dec. 28. Being Lord's day, the people were 
 summoned to public worship by striking a 
 sonorous stone, a piece of compact basalt, sus- 
 pended from the branch of a tree, for a bell. 
 Mr. Henry preached from 1 Tliess. i. 9, 10: 
 " Ye turned to God from idols, to serve the 
 true and living God; and to wait for his Son 
 from heaven, whom he raised from the dead, 
 e\en Jesus, which delivered us from the wrath 
 to come." After this service, baptism was 
 administered, for the first time in this new 
 Christian colony, to fifty-two adults, the first- 
 fruits of these Gentiles, who were enabled to 
 witness a good confession, and sixty-nine of 
 their offspring. Among these were the king 
 and queen, with their three children. About 
 a thousand persons were present ; and we trust 
 that the same power was felt in this assembly, 
 while whole families were thus introduced into 
 the church of Christ, as fell upon the household 
 of Cornelius the centurion, and made Peter 
 exclaim, " Can any man forbid water that these 
 should be baptized 1" 
 
 Jan. 1, 1824. The beginning of the year was 
 signalized by the opening of a new chapel at 
 Atirona, about two miles from Tranuape, the 
 residence of the native teachers. There were 
 scarcely fewer than sixteen hundred persons 
 present ; twelve hundred within and four 
 hundred on the outside of the building. On 
 our arrival we found the aged chief of the 
 district and his wife (two grotesque figures) 
 superbly dressed in crimson cloaks, seated in 
 front of their house. Before them were spread, 
 on the ground, at full length, of twenty yards 
 each, many pieces of native cloth, besides many 
 more folded up and piled to the thickness of 
 
 twelve inches. These, which were for the most 
 part coloured black, double, and of the best 
 manufacture, had been brought as presents, or 
 rat Inn- as tribute, from the friends of the old 
 chief, together with a number of prettily-carved 
 paddles, which are highly prized here. The 
 various articles were received with impertur- 
 bable gravity by the great personages on the 
 one hand, and laid at their feet by the contribu- 
 tors with unccremonial silence on the other; 
 this being the customary etiquette, when gifts 
 are made to grandees oil festive or solemn 
 occasions. 
 
 When we left the place we went to the old 
 chief's house to receive a present which we had 
 been officially informed he had provided for us, 
 and were not a little surprised to find that it 
 consisted of all the piles of cloth which had 
 been brought to him by his dependants that 
 morning, besides a large quantity of cocoa-nuts, 
 bananas, taro, and some fish. Mr. Henry him- 
 self was astonished, and said that he had never 
 witnessed so large a quantity of cloth given, on 
 any occasion, in the Tahitian Islands. NN hen 
 rolled up, it made thirteen good bales, and 
 would have loaded an English cart. We wished 
 to return a considerable portion of it, but were 
 told that this must not be done. We therefore 
 presented a piece to each of the native teachers 
 and their wives, to whom it was very accept- 
 able, and sent the remainder on board of the 
 schooner, to be divided among ourselves. In 
 return, we made the old chief some small pre- 
 sents, with which he was as much delighted as 
 we were with his abundant bounty. 
 
 Jan. 3. Yesterday we sailed from Raivavai, 
 and arrived to-day at Tubuai, distant about a 
 hundred miles from the former, and lying to the 
 north-west. The general aspect of Tubuai, its 
 rocky coast and mountainous interior, so nearly 
 resemble the corresponding features of the other 
 islands that we need not describe them here. 
 We were joyfully received by Tamatoa, the 
 principal chief of the district where we went on 
 shore, and by Haapunea, the native teacher. 
 We were grieved to learn that a fatal disease 
 has long been ravaging the island, and has swept 
 away one half of the population within the last 
 four years. Several persons are still afflicted 
 with it. The symptoms are pains in the head 
 and stomach, followed by shivering fits and 
 fever. The sufferer then rapidly wastes away, 
 till death finds him a mere skeleton. This 
 plague has been most destructive among those 
 who had been previously tainted with an 
 abominable disease, introduced here by the 
 crew of a vessel, in their profligate intercourse 
 with the natives. 
 
 Jan. 4. All the inhabitants of the island 
 except a few sick, aged, and young children, 
 with their nurses attended the public service. 
 Their appearance and demeanour were credit- 
 able to them, and to their teacher, by whose aid 
 and instructions they had arisen from the dust 
 and defilement of idolatrous superstition and 
 political bondage. After the sermon the two 
 principal chiefs, and several others, who had 
 given satisfactory evidence of their faith in 
 
168 GOSPEL INTRODUCED AT TUBUAI CODE FOR WINDWARD ISLANDS. 
 
 Christ, received baptism ; this being the first 
 time of that rite being administered in Tubuai. 
 As the people departed, we counted them up to 
 two hundred and sixty-nine ; so that the whole 
 population of this beautiful and fruitful isle 
 cannot be computed" at more than three hun- 
 dred. Three years ago they were nearly thrice 
 that number. In the afternoon the Lord's 
 Supper for the first time also was celebrated 
 here, at which the native teachers and their 
 wives sat down with us. 
 
 Eighteen months ago, when Mr. Nott landed 
 here with two native teachers from Tahiti, the 
 inhabitants of the two districts into which the 
 land is divided were at war ; and on the day 
 following a desperate battle had been premedi- 
 tated. But the gospel of peace, in its first ac- 
 cents wrought so powerfully upon the hearts of 
 the savages even at that crisis when the savage 
 is the most himself, the most reckless, cruel, 
 and vindictive of animals that they consented 
 to suspend hostilities, and live in harmony, or 
 at least in forbearance, till they had more fully 
 heard "the great message," the glad tidings, 
 which the strangers had brought to then 
 tin- i -sue was blessed ; a teacher was stationed 
 by Mr. Nott in each district, and he became the 
 ttgel of t!ic church formed by himself out of 
 th<- heathen around him, who soon ceased to be 
 heathen at all, renouncing and destroying their 
 idols and all professing to be, what we trust a 
 goodly number are, Christians indeed. 
 
 Jan. <>. After a voyage of two days we arrived 
 at the island of Rurutu, a hundred miles west- 
 ward of Tubuai. It was here that we first 
 made shore on our return from the Sandwich 
 Islands, when "the barbarous people, showed 
 us no little kindness." Barbarous indeed they 
 had been, but these were already reclaimed by 
 the power of the gospel received under the very 
 peculiar circumstances formerly detailed. 11 
 we again experienced that brotherly hospitality 
 from the nati\es and their teachers which 
 Christianity alone inspires, and renders the 
 heart large enough to conceive, and rich enough 
 to confer. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 Yo\;ii;i! to the Pearl Islands postponed. and the Deputa- 
 tion return to F.iuieo and Tahiti Parliament of the 
 Windward Islands Di>eus-iim and Adoption of tlu 
 revised (\*le of L;i\\ s llussian Ships under Captain 
 Kol/.elMie visit Tahiti Transportation of a llou>e 
 Coronation of the yonni,' Kini; 1'oniare III. 
 
 JAN. 9. We sailed from Rurutu, and 
 reached Eimeo again on the l"th, Captain 
 Henry having postponed his intended voyage to 
 
 rl Islands. 
 
 Jan. 2."). (Lord's day.) Mr. Platt preached 
 in the morning, from Prov. xviii. 21 : " Death 
 and life are in the power of the tongue." In 
 t lie afternoon Mure, a native, delivered a \ery 
 animated and pious discourse from John iii. 3(3 : 
 " He that believeth on the Son hath everlasting 
 life ; but he that believeth not the Son shall not 
 see life, but the wrath of God abideth on him." 
 This was the first sermon, by a native, which we 
 
 had heard since we came hither ; and we were 
 both delighted and edified to perceive how, 
 "out of the mouths of" those who are yet 
 "babes and sucklings" in the divine life, the 
 Lord "ordaineth strength" and "perfecteth 
 praise." 
 
 Feb. 18. We returned to Pape etc, in Tahiti, 
 and proceeded on the 21st to Matavai, that we 
 might be in the immediate neighbourhood of 
 Papaoa, whither the chiefs and delegates of this 
 and other islands have been convened to con- 
 sider, amend, and adopt the new code of laws. 
 
 Feb. 23. This day and the eight following 
 (with the exception of two Sabbaths) HUA 
 employed by the chiefs and representat 
 the people, in a formal Parliament of the Wind- 
 ward Isles, in discussing and settling the laws. 
 The constitution of the isles provided that the 
 Parliament should consist of one house, wherein 
 each person should have one vote. The mem- 
 bers were the adult male branches of tin 
 family, the same of the principal chief- 
 being hereditary legislators; to which, as popu- 
 lar representatives, were added two of their own 
 body, out of the adult male inhabitants of each 
 M-itaaina, or district, appointed by themselves. 
 
 The business has, each day, been begun and 
 concluded with prayer ; every subject, in suc- 
 cession, has been temperately and wi-ely 
 handled by the various speakers ; and in the 
 event the whole has been satisfactorily an 
 Mr. Nott, the senior Missionary, 
 president ; his brethren and the Deputation 
 were also present, but none of these for. 
 took any part in the proceedings, bey.nd gmng 
 such information or opinion, on different points, 
 as was from time to time required of them. 
 The draught of the code had been pre\iously 
 prepared, in fit terms, by Mr. Nott, at ; 
 press desire of the chiefs and people, the g 
 principles and specific enactments havi:. 
 frequently canvassed in previous meetings, and 
 deliberately rccognis-d by all p;, 
 basis of the literal form in which th< 
 should be embodied and promulgated. This 
 code, thus adopted, consists of about forty arti- 
 cles, which appear to comprehend all the neces- 
 sary provisions for maintaining social order, 
 promoting public welfare, and preserving the 
 rights and privileges of all ranks am 
 . with ample security for life, lihc ; 
 property. The following are a few of the" prin- 
 cipal clauses : 
 
 Xo. 1. The punishment for murder. This 
 main question, which was to determine whether, 
 in any case, man's blood was to be shed under 
 the sanction of laws made by a Christ iai: 
 laturo, unfettered either by antiquated HI 
 prejudices, occupied, many hours of the I'.. 
 second days' sittings ;- detth, or perpetual 
 banishment to some uninhabited island, being 
 the alternatives proposed. At length, it was 
 unanimously resolved that the latter should be 
 adopted. 
 
 No. 2. Theft. Restoration fourfold ; for 
 repetition of the offence, hard labour to the ex- 
 tent of live wars. 
 
 No. 4. Sabbath-breaking. Admonition for 
 
SPEECHES OF HITOTI, UTAMI, UPUPARU, AND TATI. 
 
 169 
 
 the first offence, hard labour for subsequent 
 ones. 
 
 No. 9, 10, 11, 12. On marriage. Against 
 polygamy, adultery, and other violations of the 
 marriage contract. 
 
 No. 16. Defamation Penalty, two hogs. 
 
 No. 21. Drunkenness. Admonition on the 
 first, and hard labour after subsequent con- 
 victions. 
 
 No. 27. Repeal of the law against tatooing ; 
 leaving persons to act as they pleased in respect 
 to that custom. 
 
 No. 31 to 35. Appointment, duties, &c., of 
 judges, of whom the number is very consider- 
 able, there being two at least for every district, 
 - seven supreme judges for Tahiti, and 
 two for Eimeo. 
 
 Xo. 30. Juries to be composed of six persons, 
 peers of the accused. 
 
 No. 38. The respective revenues of the king, 
 the chiefs, and governors of districts, to be paid 
 according to the rank of the tributaries, in cloth, 
 hogs, oil, arrow-root, and other produce. 
 
 To show the spirit and candour, as well as 
 good sense, with which the discussions were 
 conducted, we shall furnish a sketch of some of 
 the principal speeches delivered on the first and 
 second day, in reference to death or banish- 
 ment for murder. 
 
 On tin: question being proposed, Hitoti, the 
 principal chief of Pape ete stood up, ami, bow- 
 ing to the president and the persons around 
 him, said: "No doubt this is a good law," 
 punishment was exile for life to a 
 desolate island, " but a thought has been 
 growing in my heart for several days, and when 
 you have heard my little speech you will under- 
 stand what it is. The laws of England, from 
 which country we have received so much good 
 of every kind must not they be good 1 And 
 do not the laws of England punish murderers 
 by death'? Now, my thought is, that as Eng- 
 land does so, it would be well for us to do so. 
 That is my thought." 
 
 Perfect silence followed ; and it may be ob- 
 served here that, during the whole eight days' 
 meetings of this parliament, in no instance 
 were two speakers on their legs at the same 
 time ; there was not an angry word uttered by 
 one against another; nor did any assume the 
 possession of more knowledge than the rest. In 
 fact, none controverted the opinion of a pre- 
 ceding speaker, or even remarked upon it, 
 without some respectful commend at ions of what 
 appeared praiseworthy in it, while, for reasons 
 which he modestly but manfully assigned, he 
 deemed another sentiment better. 
 
 After looking round to sec whether anybody 
 were already up before him, I'tami, the prin- 
 cipal chief of JJuanaauia, rose and thus ad- 
 dressed the president : " The chief of 1'ape ete 
 id well that we have received a great 
 "iod things from the kind Christian people 
 of England. Indeed, what have we not recei\ <(! 
 from IJeretane ? Did they not, send us (area) 
 
 But does not Hitoti's spe 
 too far '. If we take the laws of Kngland for 
 our guide, then must we not punish with death 
 
 those who break into a house'? those Avho 
 write a wrong name 1 those who steal a sheep 1 
 And will any man in Tahiti say that death should 
 grow for these"? No, no ; this goes too far ; so 
 1 think we should stop. The law, as it is writ- 
 ten, 1 think is good ; perhaps I am wrong ; but 
 that is my thought." 
 
 After a moment or two of ctillness, Upuparu, 
 a noble, intelligent, and stately chief, stood forth. 
 It was a pleasure to look upon his animated 
 countenance and frank demeanour without the 
 smallest affectation either of superiority or con- 
 descension. He paid several graceful compli- 
 ments to the former speakers, while, according 
 to his thought, in some things each Avas right, 
 and each was wrong. " My brother, Hitoti, 
 who proposed that we should punish murder 
 with death because England does so, was 
 wrong, as has been shown by Utami. For they 
 are not the laws of England which are to 
 guide us, though they are good ; the Bible is 
 our perfect guide. Now, Mltti Tmtu (the 
 Missionary Crook) was preaching to us on 
 (naming the day) from the Scripture, '.He that 
 sheddeth man's blood, by man shall his blood 
 be shed;' and he told us that this was the reason 
 of the law of England. My thought, therefore, 
 is not with Utami, but with Hitoti (though not 
 because the law of England, but because the 
 Bible, orders it), that we ought to punish with 
 death every one found guilty of murder." 
 
 Tin 1 re was a lively exchange of looks all 
 through the assembly, as if each had been deeply 
 struck with the sentiments of the speaker, espe- 
 cially when he placed the ground of the punish- 
 ment of death, not upon English precedent, 
 but Scripture authority. Another chief fol- 
 lowed, and "rising, seemed a pillar of state," 
 one whose aspect, and presence, and costume of 
 dress ( richly native) made the spectators forget 
 even him who had just sat down. His name 
 was Tati ; and on him all eyes were imme- 
 diately and intensely fixed, while, with not less 
 simplicity and deference to others than those 
 who hud preceded him, he spoke thus : " Per- 
 haps some of you may be surprised that I, who 
 am the first chief here, and next to the royal 
 family, should have held my peace so long. I 
 wished to hear what my brethren would say, 
 that I might gather what thoughts had grown in 
 their breast on this great question. I am glad 
 that I waited, because some thoughts are now 
 growing in my own breast which I did not 
 In ing with me. The chiefs, who have spoken 
 before me, have spoken well. But is not the 
 speech of Upuparu like that of his brother 
 Hitoti in this way 1 If we cannot follow the 
 laws of England in all things, as Hitoti's 
 thoughts would perhaps lead us, because they 
 go too far, must we not stop short of Upuparu, 
 because his thought goes too far likewise "? The 
 Bible, he says, is our perfect guide. It is. 
 But what does that Scripture mean, He that 
 sheddeth man's blood, by man shall his blood 
 be shed .' Does not this go so far that we can- 
 not follow it to the end, any more than we can 
 follow the laws of England all the way'? I am 
 Tati ; I am a judge ; a man is convicted before 
 
170 
 
 SPEECHES OF PATI AND OF A COMMONER. 
 
 me ; he has shed blood ; I order him to be put 
 to death ; I shed his blood ; then who shall shed 
 mine? Here, because I cannot go so far, I 
 must stop. This cannot be the meaning of 
 those words. But, perhaps, since many of the 
 laws of the Old Testament were thrown down 
 by the Lord Jesus Christ, and only some kept 
 standing upright, perhaps, I say, this is one of 
 those which were thrown down. However, as 
 I am ignorant, some one else will show me that, 
 in the New Testament, our Saviour, or his 
 apostles, have said the same thing concerning 
 him that sheddeth man's blood ns is said in the 
 Old Testament. Show me this in the New 
 Testament, and then it must be our guide." 
 
 Much cordial approbation was evident at the 
 conclusion of Tati's speech, and its evangelical 
 ;ij)]tc;il seemed to remove some difficulty and 
 doubt respecting the true Scriptural authority 
 applicable to the case. 
 
 Next rose Pati, a chief and a judge of Eimeo, 
 formerly a high priest of Oro, and the first who, 
 at the hazard of his life, had abjured idolatry. 
 "My breast," he exclaimed, " is full of thought, 
 and surprise, and delight. When I look round 
 at this fare bure ra (house of prayer) in which 
 we are assembled, and consider who we are that 
 take sweet counsel together here, it is to me all 
 iiu-ti Imrn c (a tiling of amazement), and mcafaa 
 oaoa te aau (a thing that makes glad my heart). 
 Tati has settled the question; for is it not the 
 gospel that is our guide 1 and who can find 
 directions for putting to death ( J know many 
 s which forbid, but I know not one 
 which commands, to kill. But then another 
 thought is growing in my breast, and, if you 
 will hearken to my little speed), ^ou shall know 
 what it is. Laws to punish those that commit 
 crime are good for us. But tell me, why do 
 Christians punish! Is it because we are angry, 
 and have pleasure in causing pain ? Is it lie- 
 cause we love revenge, as we did when we ^ en- 
 heathens t None of these: Christians do not 
 love revenge ; Christians must not be an-rv ; 
 they cannot have pleasure in causing pain. 
 Christians do not, therefore, punish for these. 
 Is it not that, by the suffering which is inflicted, 
 we may prevent the criminal from repeat ing his 
 crime, and frighten others from doing as he has 
 done to deserve the like 1 Well then, does not 
 everybody know that it would be a greater 
 punishment to be banished for ever from Tahiti, 
 to a desolate island, than just, in a moment, to 
 be put to death t And could the banished man 
 commit murder again there t And would not 
 others be more frightened by such a sentence 
 than by one to take away his life? So my 
 thought is that Tati is right, and the law had 
 best remain as it has been written." 
 
 One of the taata rii, or little men, a com- 
 moner, or representative of a district, now pre- 
 sented himself, and was listened to witli as 
 much attention as had been given to the lordly 
 personages who preceded him. He said : " As 
 no one else stands up, I will make my little 
 speech, ..because several thoughts have been 
 growing in my breast, and 1 wish you to hear 
 them. Perhaps everything good and n< 
 
 has been said already by the chiefs; yet, as we 
 are not met to adopt this law or that law be- 
 cause one great man or another recommend! it, 
 but as we, the taata rii just the same as the 
 chiefs, are to throw all our thoughts t<>_ 
 that out of the whole heap the meeting may 
 make those to stand upright which ar 
 whencesoever they come this is my thought. 
 All that Pati said was good ; but he did not 
 mention that one reason for punishing (as a 
 .Missionary told us when he was reading the 
 law to us in private) is to make the offender 
 good again if possible. Now, if we kill a mur- 
 derer, how can we make him better 1 But it 
 he be sent to a desolate island, where h. 
 solitary, and compelled to think for himself, 
 it may please God to make the bad thi 
 his heart to die, and good things to grow 
 there. But, if we kill him, where will ! 
 go?" 
 
 Others spoke to the same purport, and, in the 
 result, it was unanimously determined that ba- 
 nishment, not death, should be inflicted on 
 murderers. It followed, of course, that the ex- 
 treme exercise of magisterial power, to take 
 away life, was excluded from e>ery otln . 
 
 March 27. The Russian ship Knterprise, 
 captain Kotzebue, came to anchor in M 
 Bay. The captain had commanded the Rurich, 
 on a voyage of discovery, iu 1*1 T, v.v<-.. <>! which 
 the journal has been published. Hi- : 
 expedition is to the north-west coast of 
 America. He and several of his 
 on shore, and visited the Missionaries, by whom 
 they were hospitably entertained. 
 
 Si arch U9. The royal family arrived from 
 Pare to see the Russian vessel, and p . 
 compliments to the captain, who had taken up 
 
 lence in a house near Poiii' 
 longing to the late king. Some of his men 
 ha\iuir laid articles of common ' use on a 
 ! on which 1'omare was accustomed to 
 sleep, offence was taken by his relatiM 
 considered that piece of furniture tabued, or in 
 a certain degree sacred h\ the touch of the 
 royal person a qualm of superstition which 
 neither the chiefs nor the people have yet been 
 able entirely to overcome. 
 
 We paid a morning visit to captain Kotzebue, 
 on board his ship, where we found young Po- 
 mare, with his mother, and her sister the regent. 
 The priest who accompanies the expedition is a 
 monk of the Greek church. Bein^' willing to 
 show kindness to the young king, he took him 
 upon his knee, but the child, not less terrified 
 at the good father's long beard than Hector's 
 little son of old was at the " dazzling helm and 
 nodding crest," burst into a loud fit of crying, 
 and was taken away before he could be paci- 
 fied. Mr. Nott had a long conversation with 
 the captain concerning the relation in which 
 these islands stand towards England : 
 apparently coveting the petty but merely nomi- 
 nal distinction of adding these green 
 within the tropics to the me::- 
 snow-land which constitute her Asiatic empire. 
 
 Captain Kotzebue has brought his mathema- 
 tical instruments on shore, and put them up in a 
 
CORONATION OF POMARE III. 
 
 171 
 
 tent at Point Venus, in order to make observa- 
 tions to correct the ship's time-pieces, &c. But 
 that locality has been much changed since cap- 
 tain Cook was here, and witnessed the transit 
 of Venus. The tongue of land does not extend 
 so far into the water as it did then by sixty- 
 feet ; the ground, which was covered with vege- 
 tation, is now a bank of sand ; while the river, 
 which opened into the sea at some distance, has 
 found its way close by the point. Captain Kot- 
 zebue says that he finds Point Venus to differ six 
 or seven miles in longitude from captain Cook's 
 computation. 
 
 In consequence of the Russian vessel being 
 in the harbour, the schools are forsaken, and al- 
 most every ordinary occupation suspended. 
 The people are crowding about the strangers, 
 both on ship-board and on shore, with their 
 fruit, hogs, and other commodities for sale. 
 But it was gratifying to observe that not a canoe 
 went out yesterday, and the Sabbath was as 
 sacredly kept by the Tahitians (both converts 
 and half-heathens) as though there were no 
 temptation at hand to break it, for the indul- 
 gence of curiosity and the profits of commerce 
 eager as they are to visit the strange ships 
 and traffic witli the strange people. Very dif- 
 ferently, and very disgracefully, on the other 
 hand, have those born Christians, the Russians, 
 employed their Sabbath, which, with the ex- 
 ception of a formal and customary service per- 
 formed on board, could not be distinguished 
 from a day of labour and dissipation. 
 
 April 5. Captain Kotzebue dined with us. 
 He is no doubt an able navigator, but is not 
 possessed of those social habits and friendly 
 feelings which we have been in the habit of 
 meeting with in all the commanders of the ships 
 of other countries which we have met with. 
 His officers appear to be a number of highly 
 respectable young men. 
 
 April <>. Captain Kotzebue called upon us to 
 take his leave. He was bound immediately to 
 tin' Navigators' Islands. At his request Mrs. 
 Wilson had provided him several articles of 
 provision, which were to be ready by four p. m. ; 
 but he got under weigh before that time, and 
 went without them. The squally state of the 
 weather was probably the cause of his hasty 
 movement. The captain did not appear to 
 think the better of these islands on account of 
 their having renounced idolatry and embraced 
 Christianity, though he had every reason to be 
 satisfied with the general behaviour and con- 
 duct of the people.* 
 
 April 8. We concluded an agreement with 
 captain Dacre, of the small schooner Endea- 
 vour, to take us to New South Wales ; to sail 
 
 * The foregoing two paragraphs, dated Aprils and 6, 
 
 are from ilu; la to Mr. Tyerman's private journal. The 
 iui[>:Mon thus produced on tlio mind of Mr. T, serves 
 to cast . cmisidcrahle liv'ht on some .slanderous reflections 
 upon the Missionaries and their converts at Tahiti, lately 
 published in Knjjland, in captain Kot/.ebuc's journal of 
 bis voyage. It-is si.llicient here to say that the circum- 
 na\ L'ator. when he sat down " in the seat of the scornful" 
 to writi! those strictures, either misuud'Tslood or niisre- 
 prcM-nted what he saw of the moral and civili/.inj,' ell'cets 
 Of the gOfpel there. In such ; , case, ignorance is only 
 le.vs repp-hens'ilde than malice. Feb. lo, l,s:n. 
 
 six weeks hence from Eimeo. The vessel is 
 only sixty-one tons measurement, with very 
 confined accommodations. The prospect of 
 making a voyage of several thousand miles, and 
 which must occupy at least two months, in such 
 a bark, is not very pleasant ; but we are in the 
 Lord's hand, and the direction of his finger 
 may be interpreted as his voice, oaying, " This 
 is the way." "We have no choice but obe- 
 dience, and we desire to have no other. Our 
 work here is done. 
 
 April 13. The people here removed a house 
 this morning, and replaced it near Mr. Wilson's, 
 to be occupied as a Missionary warehouse for 
 storing up the annual contributions of oil to 
 the Parent Society. This transportation was 
 effected with great expedition. One-half of the 
 roof, frame-work, and thatch, without being 
 taken to pieces, was brought upon the shoulders 
 of twenty stout men, who put themselves under 
 the timbers, and carried it, without difficulty 
 or injury, to the new site. The other half was 
 fetched in like manner. Other labourers pulled 
 up, bore away, and replanted the pillars, where 
 holes had been prepared in the ground to re- 
 ceive them. In the course of a few hours the 
 whole was completed. 
 
 April 21. The following account of the coro- 
 nation of young Pomare is abstracted from The 
 Report of the Windward Division of the Tahi- 
 tian Mission for 1824 ; printed at the Mission 
 Press, Burder's Point, Tahiti. 
 
 THE CORONATION OF POMARE III. 
 
 " This ceremony took'place at Papaoa, in Ta- 
 hiti, on the 21st of April, 1824. It was an event 
 which excited great interest amongst the people 
 of Tahiti, Moorea, and the Leeward Islands, it 
 being the first coronation that has taken place 
 since they embraced Christianity, and conse- 
 quently will be a precedent for the time to come. 
 
 The laws having been revised and agreed to 
 by the chiefs and representatives of the people, 
 which consists of two persons from each dis- 
 trict of Tahiti and Eimeo, and other necessary 
 preparations being finished, the Missionaries and 
 people collected at the above-mentioned place. 
 The following Europeans were present at the 
 ceremony : the Rev. D. Tyerman, G. Bennet, 
 Esq., Messrs. Nott, Wilson, Darling, Davies, 
 Jones, Crook, Henry, G. Bicknell, and S. 
 Henry, resident in Tahiti, with their wives and 
 " part of their families. 
 
 Most of the people of Tahiti and Eimeo, and 
 all the kings and principal chiefs of the five lee- 
 ward islands, with their attendants, were as- 
 sembled. The number supposed to be present 
 on the occasion was about eight thousand. 
 
 At seven o'clock in the morning the whole 
 assembled at the queen's house. The young 
 king, who is about four years old, was brought 
 from Mr. Nott's house and placed in the chair ap- 
 pointed for him, which was covered with a neat 
 canopy. Mr. Darling having been appointed 
 by the chiefs to act as superintendent on the oc- 
 casion, he began, at half-past seven, to place 
 the order of the procession, which had been 
 agreed upon at a meeting held the day before 
 for the purpose, as follows : viz. 
 
172 
 
 CORONATION OF POM ARE III. 
 
 1. A woman conducting two girls witli 
 baskets of flowers, to be scattered along the 
 road to the place of the coronation, which was 
 about half a mile distant, in a field, where two 
 platforms of stones, one raised higher than the 
 other, had been erected for the convenience of 
 performing the ceremony. 
 
 2. The wives and children of the Missionaries 
 that were present. 
 
 3. One of the supreme judges, Mahine, car- 
 rying the large Bible, with one of the senior 
 Missionaries, Mr. Nott, and one of the gentle- 
 men of the deputation, the Rev. D. Tyerman, 
 on the right, and another senior Missionary, 
 Mr. Henry, and the other gentleman of the de- 
 putation, G. Bennct, Esq., on the left hand. 
 
 4. All the other Missionaries and friends that 
 were present, four abreast. 
 
 5. Three of the supreme judges abreast, the one 
 in the centre, Utami, carrying the code of laws. 
 
 6. The other three supreme judges abreast, 
 the one in the centre, Tati, carrying the crown. 
 
 7. The king, seated on his chair, carried by 
 four stout youths, sons of chiefs, and four others 
 supporting the canopy over his head. 
 
 8. The king's mother and sister on his right 
 hand, and his aunts on his left. 
 
 9. Pomare, the king's brother-in-law, close 
 behind the king. 10. Tapa and the other 
 parents of the royal family with the anointing 
 oil and the tables. 
 
 11. All the governors, four abreast. I?. 
 The district judges four abreast. 13. All the 
 magistrates four abreast. 
 
 On the arrival of the procession at the place 
 of the coronation 
 
 1. The wives and children of the Mission- 
 aries and friends were seated on each side of 
 the upper platform. 
 
 '2. The king was seated on his chair, in the 
 middle of the platform, with the canopy of 
 native' cloth over his head, the tables placed be- 
 fore him, upon which the crown was placed in 
 the centre, the Bible on the right side and the 
 laws on the left, with a small vial containing 
 the anointing oil. A large tree overshadowed 
 the royal seat from behind. 
 
 3. The queen and her daughter were seated 
 at the kind's right hand, and next to them one 
 half of the Missionaries, one of the members of 
 the deputation, and one half of the supreme 
 
 4. (-lose to the king's left hand, his adopted 
 mother and her sisters, next to them the other 
 half of the Missionaries, the other member of 
 the Deputation, and the rest of the supreme 
 
 i. Close behind the king, Pomare the king's 
 brother-in-law, and on his right and left hand 
 the lathers of the royal family. Mr. Davies, 
 who was appointed to act as speaker for the 
 king, sat close by him. 
 
 (i. On the lower platform all the governors 
 and district judges wen- seated on one side, 
 and their whes on tne other. On the go- 
 vernors* platform, and close to the royal plat- 
 form on each side, the singers were placed. 
 
 7. In front of and round about the governors' 
 
 platform the children were seated, and next to 
 them the women. Next to the women all the 
 magistrates were seated, and behind them the 
 multitude. 
 
 All things being thus in readiness, Mr. Dar- 
 ling gave out one of the hymns composed for 
 the occasion ; the tune was set by a native. 
 After singing, Mr. Crook offered up a prayer 
 for the divine assistance, guidance, and blessing. 
 After prayer, Mr. Nott addressed the people on 
 the nature of a coronation, as being a public 
 recognition of a king on the part of the people, 
 that he is their lawful sovereign and the ob- 
 ject of their choice ; and, on the part of the 
 king, an acceptance of that office : and he ex- 
 plained the importance and advantage of being 
 governed by just laws, to the well-being !' 
 society. After the address, Mr. Nott read an 
 abridgment of the code of laws to the people, 
 who were afterwards requested to signify their 
 approbation of them by holding up their hand*. 
 
 The code of laws being read and replaced on 
 the table, Mr. Bennet took the laws and put 
 them into the hands of the king, and Mr. N\ il- 
 son addressed his majesty at the s-une time 
 in the following language : " Do you promise 
 to govern your people in justice and in mercy, 
 agreeably to the word of God, and these lavs*, 
 and what oilier laws the national assembly may 
 agree upon, being sanctioned b\ 
 To which the king answered, I do, God being 
 my helper." 
 
 Mr. Henry then took the anointing oil from 
 the table and poured a little on the head of the 
 king, and in a few words stated what the 
 anointing was intended to signify, viz. " the 
 ily unction of the Holy Spirit, without 
 which he could not fulfil his high office as a 
 Christian prince." A short pray 
 offered, by Mr. Davies, for the grace and bless- 
 ing of the Holy Spirit to rest upon tin- kin;,', 
 and concluded with a few words pronounced in 
 the form of a benediction. 
 
 Mr. Nott, at the right hand of the king, ac- 
 cording to the arrangements previously made, 
 then took the crown from the table, and put it on 
 the king's head ; pronouncing a benediction as 
 follows: "May God grant you pro 
 health, length of days, and grace to rule in 
 righteousness, and in the fear of the Lord." 
 Here the people gave three shouts, 
 " Long live the king! may the king be saved 1" 
 &c. 
 
 The Rev. D. Tyerman, on the right hand of 
 the king* now took the Bible from the table, 
 and presented it to the king ; and Mr. Darling 
 addressed his majesty, at the same time, in the 
 following words : 
 
 " King Pomare, we present to you this book, 
 the most valuable thing in the world. Here is 
 wisdom; this is the royal law; these are the 
 lively oracles of God. Blessed is he that 
 readeth, and they that hear, the words of this 
 book, and keep and do the things contained in 
 
 * The crown was somewhat in the fonv 
 royal crown, very neatly maile of jnirple -velvet; the 
 lillet and winga covered with Woad gold laca enriched 
 
 with some very line i-eurls aud valuable stones. t 
 
NATIVE PROPHECY A HEATHEN MURDERER. 
 
 173 
 
 it ; for these are the words of eternal life, able 
 to make you wise and happy in this world 
 nay, wise unto salvation, and so happy for ever- 
 more, through faith in Christ Jesus, to whom 
 be glory for ever and ever. Amen." 
 
 Mr. Jones now gave out another hymn, and 
 Mr. Wilson concluded with a short prayer for 
 the king, for the nation, and for the church of 
 God. 
 
 An herald now proclaimed freedom to all 
 who were under the sentence of- the law, saying, 
 " Let those that have been banished return to 
 their lands, and let every man and woman be 
 freed from every penalty ; and let all be ex- 
 horted to become good members of society." 
 
 The coronation being ended, the procession 
 proceeded to the royal chapel to worship God. 
 
 The same order was observed in returning 
 as in going to the place of coronation, only the 
 king wore his crown, in returning. On the ar- 
 rival at the chapel, the Bible and the code of 
 laws were placed on the tables in the pew pre- 
 pared for the king. The king sat in his chair 
 in the pew, and his crown was taken from his 
 head :;iul placed 011 the table before him. His 
 mother, and aunts, &c., sat with him. 
 
 Mr. Wilson commenced the worship of God 
 by giving out a hymn, Mr. Crook read a por- 
 tion of Scripture, Mr. Darling engaged in 
 ]>:-a\iT. and Mr. i!enr\ preached a short and 
 appropriate sermon. Mr. Davies concluded 
 A\ith singing and prayer. 
 
 Public worship being over, all proceeded to 
 the place appointed for the coronation dinner, 
 where plenty of wholesome food was provided. 
 
 After dinner the brethren held a meeting 
 with the members of the Deputation, in order to 
 take leave of them, they being about to depart 
 from the islands. It is with pleasure we look 
 back upon the period these gentlemen have 
 spent amongst us, and we trust their visit to 
 1-inds will be followed with lasting bene- 
 fits to the mission. In the evening we re- 
 [ turned to our lodgings, and the next day to our 
 different stations." 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 Thf Deputation taku a final Leave of Tahiti, and pro- 
 ceed by Kim.-.) for N.-w South Wales, touching at 
 Huahine, Tahaa, .-Hid Raiatea Anecdote* and a re- 
 markable nativi- IViphecy T:d.>> in tin- I'acilic Ocean 
 An <xi(l Incident in Fi"shin_' A r.Tilmis Adventure 
 Borabora Summary of (li ..-rrvatiniis on tin- State of 
 flu: Missions in the South Seu Islands by the Deputa- 
 tion. 
 
 \rniL 24. This day we took our final 
 leave of Tahiti, and arrived in the evening at 
 Papetoai* in Kimco. 
 
 S. After a brief sojourn with our friends 
 here, to Avind up some concerns. respecting the 
 station^, the cotton-works, and the seminary for 
 the education of the children of Missionaries, 
 and other European agents of tl e Parent So- 
 ciety, in the various Christianized islands, of 
 both the windward and the leeward group, we 
 went on board of the Endeavour schooner, to 
 cmiimence our voyage to New South Wales. 
 We cannot express the pain which we felt at 
 this parting ; duty, however, calls, and we are 
 
 going forth, not knowing what may befal us in 
 the providence of God, but willingly and thank- 
 fully leaving the future in his hands, who has 
 guided and protected, blessed and helped us 
 thus far. Mr. Threlkeld, who has lately lost 
 his excellent wife, accompanies us to the colony. 
 
 May 10. We went onshore at Fare Harbour, 
 Huahine, to bid farewell to our brethren and 
 sisters there. When we landed, a trial was 
 being held on a charge of infanticide, by abor- 
 tion, against a widow, who had unhappily aban- 
 doned herself to a loose life. Though acquitted, 
 from a defect in Bvidence, the culprit afterwards 
 confessed her guilt, and pointed out the place 
 a land-crab's hole in which she had deposited 
 her untimely birth, wrapped in a piece of cloth. 
 On examination the cloth was found, but the 
 body had disappeared, having been devoured by 
 the crabs. Circumstances of this atrocious 
 nature were too common, under the idolatrous 
 system, to excite attention, but now this crime 
 filled every bosom with horror, and even the 
 tranquillity of the island seemed to have been 
 distressingly interrupted by its occurrence. 
 Indeed the diminution of the human species by 
 infant-murder was lately so notorious that a 
 prophecy was remembered, and, to some ex- 
 tent, believed, among the islanders, which 
 must have been fulfilled, at 110 very distant 
 period, had not Christianity come to rescue the 
 whole race from destruction : " Etupufiau, ctoro 
 tefarcro, Eore te taata." "The flan-trees shall 
 overspread the land, and the brandling corals 
 fill the drVp ; but extinct shall be the race of 
 man." There is a dark and terrible sublimity 
 in this prediction, rarely to be met with either 
 in the eloquence or the poetry of a barbarous 
 people, figurative a$ these almost, necessarily 
 are : the earth covered with forests ; the sea 
 choked up with coral-rocks ; and not a human 
 inhabitant ! here is as perfect and appalling a 
 picture of magnificent loneliness as imagination 
 ever bodied forth. 
 
 Another frightful instance of depravity lately 
 occurred here. An old man, who still adheres 
 to heathenism, worships a human scull as his 
 divinity, and sometimes eats his food out of it. 
 This wretch lately coveted a fish-pond, in a 
 piece of land occupied by a youth who was a 
 relation of his. The boy refused to part with 
 it, at which the other was exceedingly angry ; 
 but choosing to conceal his chagrin, to make 
 more sure of the objects both of his vengeance 
 and his cupidity, he pretended such friendliness 
 towards the unsuspecting lad that the latter 
 presented him with some fish. This the villain 
 accepted graciously, took it home, baked it, and 
 sent a portion back, with fair speeches accom- 
 panying the perfidious gift for the mess was 
 poisoned. The boy ate, was seized with sick- 
 ness, and soon died in excruciating torments. 
 It is affirmed, and believed, that this was the 
 thirteenth of the same family, his own kindred, 
 who have, at different times, fallen victims to 
 the arts of the same assassin. To the credit of 
 the rest of the population of Huahine, it ought 
 to be mentioned that he is the only surviving 
 idolater in the island. When it is remembered 
 
174 
 
 ODD ACCIDENT IN FISHING A PERILOUS ADVENTURE. 
 
 that such as the woman above mentioned, the 
 destroyer of her own offspring, and the hoary- 
 headed sinner now noticed, the murderer of his 
 relatives, were the multitude of the people of 
 these lands a few years ago, none but the 
 enemies of man, both in this world and the 
 next, can despise or hate what the gospel has 
 done for them. 
 
 May 25. We sailed from Huahine to Tahaa, 
 and on the following day reached Raiatea. 
 
 May 27. We have made arrangements to en- 
 able the brethren on the leeward stations to 
 visit, once a year, the various islands to which 
 the gospel has been sent by native teachers, and 
 where it is yet impracticable to establish 
 European Missionaries. 
 
 May 28. The sea, from some unknown cause, 
 rising here and overflowing the low lands 
 several times a year, whereby the dwellings 
 and grounds at Vamara are frequently much 
 damaged, the inhabitants have determined to 
 remove to a more secure situation a fertile 
 tract, along a winding coast, nearly three miles 
 in extent. There they have already reared a 
 plastered house for Mr. Williams, and are pro- 
 ceeding with buildings and enclosures for them- 
 selves. There are no rivulets in the immediate 
 neighbourhood, but a sufficient number of 
 spriims which promise to supply the popula- 
 tion with abundance of good water. It is 
 generally known, but may be repeated here, in 
 connexion with the aforementioned periodical 
 but irregular inundations of the sea, that the 
 tides throughout the Pacific Ocean do not ap- 
 pear to obey the influence of the mooH in the 
 slightest degree. It is always high water 
 about twelve, and low about six o'clock, day 
 and night.* 
 
 An odd accident lately endangered the life of 
 a native in a very unexpected manner. A 
 party went out on a fishing cruise about the 
 small islands adjacent to Tahaa, round which 
 great draughts are often taken of the fries that 
 haunt the shores of the coral motus. In the 
 e\ening, according to custom, they had assem- 
 bled for family worship upon the beach, <-lo>e 
 to deep water. The person whose office it was 
 to read the Scriptures and ensure in prayer 
 had left his line afloat, after fastening it round 
 one of his legs. In the midst of his exercises 
 a la rue fish seized the baited hook, and, feeling 
 itself entangled, plunged so desperately that the 
 poor man was dragged by the sudden jerk into 
 the sea, where he must inevitably have perished, 
 from the impossibility of disengaging himself, 
 and the strength of the creature, darting down- 
 ward with headlong precipitation, had not his 
 companions instantly rushed to his relief, and 
 laid hold of him before he was cngulphed. 
 
 .Many remarkable perils and deliverances 
 occur in these seas, when navigated by such 
 frail vessels as are used by these insular mari- 
 ners, who rarely from choice venture out of 
 si^ht of land. About the time when the gospel 
 was beginning to make its way in Raiatea, a 
 canoe, with four men in it, was upset at sea, 
 
 * Sec Mr. Kennel's remarks among the articles in the 
 Introduction to this work. 
 
 and the people were thrown into the water, 
 where (though nearly amphibious) they must 
 have been drowned amidst the everlasting 
 waves, drifting them to and fro, unless speedily 
 carried to shore or taken up by some vessel. 
 Two of the men, having embraced Christianity, 
 immediately cried, " Let us pray to Jehovah ; 
 for He can save us." " Why did you not pray 
 to Him sooner 1 !" replied their pagan comrades ; 
 " here we are in the water, and it is useless to 
 pray now." The Christians, however, did cry 
 mightily unto their God, while all four were 
 clinging for life to the broken canoe. In this 
 situation a shark suddenly rushed towards them, 
 and seized one of the men. His companions 
 held him as fast and as long as they could ; but 
 the monster prevailed in the tug between them, 
 and hurried the unfortunate victim into the 
 abyss, marking the track with his blood. He 
 was one of the two who were idolaters. After 
 some time the tide bore the surviving three to 
 the reef, when, just as they were cast upon it, 
 a second shark snatched the other idolater with 
 his jaws, and carried off his ]>r<-\, shrieking in 
 vain for assistance, which the two Christians, 
 themselves struggling with the breakers, could 
 not afford him. This circun, natur- 
 
 ally made a great impression upon the minds 
 of their countrymen, and powerfully recom- 
 mended to them the "God that heureth prayer." 
 
 June 2. The congregation held a meeting to 
 take- leave of us, at which all the baptized were 
 present. These had prepared presents of cloth, 
 working-tools, &c., for their friends, the native 
 teachers, residing on various islands at which 
 we intended to touch in our voyage to the 
 colony. There was a separate bundle for each ; 
 and all were delivered into our hands, with 
 letters of affection from the church to them, as 
 the absent and the beloved of this litti 
 munity of faithful men, who, having r- 
 the truth in the love of it, had sent out their 
 brethren to teach it to those who were yet 
 ignorant and out of the way, in heathen 
 lands. 
 
 June 4. This day we reached Borabora, 
 where we tarried till the 7th, and then took 
 the last of all our farewells in the Georgian 
 and Society Islands ; commending with tears, 
 ami prayers, and inexpressible emotions of gra- 
 titude, attachment, and regret at the thought 
 that we should see them no more, all the 
 people of all the stations, and all their faithful 
 and devoted teachers, the Missionaries, "to 
 God, and to the word of his grace, which is 
 able to build them up, and give them an in- 
 heritance among them that are sanctified." 
 
 As a summary of our observations on the 
 state of, the Missions in these islands, we sub- 
 join a copy of the circular which we ad<: 
 to the brethren, at all the stations, on our de- 
 parture. From them, respectively, we received 
 letters of the kindest character in reference to 
 our transactions and conversation among them 
 during our visits. 
 
FAREWELL-LETTER OF THE DEPUTATION, ETC. 
 
 175 
 
 Extracts from the Fareioell-letter addressed by 
 the Deputation to all the Missionaries, of both 
 the Windward and Leeward Missions, on their 
 leaving the islands. 
 
 "May, 1824. 
 
 " Dear and much-esteemed Friends and Breth- 
 ren, 
 
 " Having completed our official visit to these 
 highly-favoured islands, and to the various 
 churches and congregations over which you 
 preside as their pastors and ministers, and ex- 
 pecting to take our leave in a few days, to pro- 
 ceed to visit our brethren in other countries, we 
 cannot take our final adieu without addressing 
 to you a few lines. When that great Society 
 whom you and we serve proposed to us this 
 important undertaking, we found innumerable 
 difficulties opposing a compliance with the 
 duties which they proposed to devolve upon us. 
 We had Ijeard of this great change with our 
 ears, in our own favoured country, and believed 
 your report ; but now our eyes have seen, and 
 we rejoice with joy unspeakable, and unite 
 with you, with the Society, and with the whole 
 Christian church, in admiring and adoring that 
 distinguishing and sovereign grace whose invin- 
 cible energies have dethroned the powers of 
 darkness, so long dominant in these islands, 
 and established the glorious throne of Jesus, 
 the Prince of Peace, against which the gates of 
 hell shall never, we trust, again prevail. While 
 we unite to admire this stupendous work, and 
 seek in vain for its parallel in the history of the 
 world, let us also unite in ascribing all the 
 glory to Him by whose power and love these 
 islands have been rescued from the foulest 
 thraldom, and brought under the equitable 
 reign of the King of kings. Let the Society 
 let the Missionaries unite in singing, ' Not unto 
 us, O Lord, not unto us, but unto thy name be 
 all the glory !' 
 
 " It is true, however, that though wonders 
 have been wrought by the preaching of the 
 gospel, and the power of the Spirit of God, 
 everything has not been achieved that Christian 
 philanthropy is anxious to behold. Though all 
 name the name of Jesus, all do not depart from 
 iniquity: while the appearance of religion is 
 seen in the mass of the people, there are many 
 individuals who disregard its solemn sanctions. 
 Many have the form of godliness, but it is to be 
 feared they are strangers to its power. But be 
 not discouraged. W T here but a few years ago 
 nothing but crime was to be seen, and that of 
 the foulest nature that men in their worst state 
 could commit, you are not to be surprised at the 
 few crimes, and these, generally, of no ^i-eat. 
 aggravation, which are still committed : where 
 all triHed with religion, be not surprised that 
 some treat it with neglect: where all were 
 cruel idolaters in practice, be not astonished 
 that there are those who retain the world as an 
 idol in their hearts : where all were led captive 
 by Satan at his will, be not disheartened be- 
 cause some are still willing to bear his yoke 
 and remain under his bondage. That arm 
 which has been so signally revealed before your 
 eyes is sufficient to accomplish all you wish. 
 
 While you feel that you are nothing, remember 
 that God is all-sufficient. His past triumphs 
 afford the pledge of future victories ; and your 
 past success should fill your minds with confi- 
 dence that all the strongholds of sin and Satan 
 shall fall before you. Is anything too hard for 
 the Lord 1 
 
 " Deeply convinced, as we are assured you 
 are, that both the ability to preach the great 
 truths of the gospel with acceptance to God, 
 and success in the conversion of sinners, and in 
 building up the saints in their most holy faith, 
 are owing alike to divine influence, be it your 
 daily prayer, both in private and in public, that 
 He, with whom is the residue of the Spirit, 
 would pour down that influence upon you and 
 your congregations in still greater effusion. 
 
 " As God will never own anything but his 
 own pure and unadulterated truth, hold fast the 
 form of sound words which you have been 
 taught ; and let the unsophisticated doctrines 
 of divine revelation, studied with diligence and 
 prayer, and delivered with fervent zeal and 
 humble faith, be still presented to the people. 
 These you have preached, and these God has 
 honoured. Guard, brethren, against the wily 
 inventions of men, and do you pursue the good 
 old way. It has afforded us no common plea- 
 sure to perceive that you hold alike the grand 
 and distinguishing doctrines of the gospel ; and, 
 confident of the sincerity of your piety, and be- 
 holding its fruits and effects in your lives, we 
 calculate on no departure from the truth in 
 your sermons, resting assured that you will 
 continue to feed your flocks with wisdom and 
 knowledge ; and, by a constant, faithful, and 
 luminous exhibition of the doctrines of the 
 cross, in connection with the law as a rule of 
 moral conduct, you will commend yourselves 
 to God as his faithful servants ; and to men, as 
 worthy of their love, esteem, and confidence : 
 exemplifying in your own spirits and deport- 
 ment the great truths which you enforce upon 
 others. 
 
 " We have beheld with delight your nu- 
 merous congregations, and your flourishing 
 churches ; and that air of holy seriousness, and 
 reverential behaviour, which so well become 
 the house of God, and characterise your several 
 flocks ; as well as that decency of dress which 
 is everywhere apparent ; and we are persuaded 
 you will continue to guard against everything 
 of a contrary nature, that all things may be 
 done devoutly and in order, as becomes the 
 house of God. We also approve of the method 
 observed in conducting your various religious 
 services, and the principles on whick your 
 several churches are established, and which we 
 regard as both scriptural and adapted to the 
 local circumstances of these islands. Using 
 your best endeavours to ascertain the truth of 
 the piety of those whom you admit to the Lord's 
 table, to preserve the purity of your churches, a 
 firm and vigilant discipline will be essentially 
 necessary. With your greatest care, hypocrites 
 and false professors will obtrude themselves 
 into the church of God ; but a wise and scrip- 
 tural discipline will detect and remove them, 
 
176 
 
 FAREWELL-LETTER OF THE DEPUTATION, ETC. 
 
 and prevent them from tarnishing the spiritual 
 glory of your flourishing societies. A neglect of 
 discipline will be followed by disunion, a de- 
 clension of vital religion, a relinquishment of 
 the distinguishing doctrines of the gospel, con- 
 fusion, and every evil work. That your disci- 
 pline may be scriptural and beneficial, it must 
 be impartial ; and, to be impartial, it must ex- 
 tend alike to all, whether chiefs or common 
 people. You have properly set a high scale of 
 morals for those whom you admit to the ordi- 
 nance of baptism, but not more high than 
 scriptural. 
 
 " There is nothing in the aspect of things in 
 these favoured islands on which our minds 
 dwell with more solicitude and anxiety than 
 the state of the rising generation. In a few 
 years the children will take the places of their 
 parents, and the character of the profession of 
 religion which they will make will greatly 
 depend upon the manner in which they are 
 now educated, and the habits in which they are 
 trained. While you pour into their opening 
 minds that knowledge of which they :. 
 ceptible, it is of indispensable importance that 
 they should be formed to habits of order ami 
 industry. Habits of diligence, and of : 
 application to business, both of body ami of 
 miml, are among the principal advantages of a 
 good education ; and, unless such habits are 
 formed in youth, mere knowledge will be of 
 little avail in real life. We are aware of the 
 difficulties which are to be surmounted in ac- 
 complishing this object ; but the advantages 
 accruing \\ould be so great and many, that v\e 
 are assured you will see the importance of ma- 
 king a vigorous attempt, and extend the present 
 system of education to the objects here men- 
 tioned. A union of your endeavours with those 
 of the parents may be expected to be productive 
 of immediate consequences, highly beneficial, 
 while remote posterities will not fail to partici- 
 pate the blessing-. 
 
 "We see with delight so many catechisms 
 and elementary books in the hands of tl. 
 pie, all of which contain the forms of sound 
 words, and a lucid statement of the doctrines of 
 the Sacred Oracles. But we especially rejoice 
 that your industry and exertions have put into 
 the hands of your flocks so many portions of the 
 word of God, and that so many more are in a 
 state of forwardness ; all of which, we doubt 
 not, will prove to be faithful translations of the 
 several Scriptures which they profess to be. 
 We are anxious, dear brethren, that the emi- 
 nent knowledge of this language, and the 
 talents for translating the Scriptures into it, 
 which you possess, should be employed to the 
 best possible advantage, before death removes 
 you to your reward. 
 
 "As it is hoped that a period will arrive 
 when all the churches in these islands will be 
 supplied with native pastors, and when it will 
 be no longer necessary for the Society to send 
 them from England, we beg to remind you that 
 it is the wish of the Society that a college 
 should be established here, for the education of 
 young men (natives) for the ministry ; and that, 
 
 so soon as a suitable number of young persons 
 of promising piety and talent can be found, 
 such a college should be commenced. We 
 therefore suggest that you all should keep this 
 in mind, and endeavour to rind such men, in 
 your several congregations, and devote, them to 
 this great work. This is an object deserving 
 your very serious and constant attention. 
 
 "When it is considered what vast sums of 
 money have been expended upon these islands, 
 by the Society, in supporting this Mission, for 
 nearly thirty years, it will be admitted as highly 
 reasonable, that now, having embraced the gos- 
 pel, the people should do all in their power, if 
 not to reimburse the Society, at least to meet 
 the present expenses of the Mission, that its 
 funds may be devoted to the support of the 
 gospel in other parts of the heathen world. 
 Justice to the Society, and love to the perishing 
 .,, claim this reasonable service. The 
 Society receives with great satisfaction the 
 noble contributions which arc made from time 
 to time ; and thanks you, dear brethren, and, 
 through you, your numerous flocks, for your 
 united exertions, which have been so pro- 
 ductive. 
 
 Though it is the wish of the Rorii-fy that 
 the Missionaries whom it M-nds into the 
 heathen world should not interfere with the 
 politics of the countries wher 
 
 you have to instruct these peopl 
 the institutions of civilized socirty, ai 
 been called upon by them to assist in forming the 
 several codes of laws under which -u 
 to see them living, it is necessary th- 
 should continue to explain to them their own 
 lavs-; that you should watch against their fall- 
 ing into neglect on the one hand, or beini: un- 
 justly applied on the other, until such time as 
 the people become so thorough 
 their meaning and administration as to : 
 your assistance ui i! 
 
 whose modes of thinking and habits of actinic 
 were formed under the inituence of a cruel 
 despotism, will be liable to indulge in unjust 
 on ; while a people, trained to absolute 
 submission, without being allowed to exercise 
 either their own judgments or their own wills, 
 are in danger of a pusillanimous surrender of 
 their just rights and liberties. Hut with your 
 discreet and intelligent advice and assistance, to 
 which the people are prepared to pa\ th< 
 est deference, both these descriptions of evils 
 will be prevented, and the civil rights . : 
 the rulers and of the ruled will be secured, and 
 peace and harmony maintained. 
 
 " That the school, which proposes to afford 
 your dear children a suitable and useful educa- 
 tion, should have commenced its operati> 
 fore we finally leave you, is to us highiv 
 factory. AVe have assisted you in placin 
 the best principles, and under the most useful 
 and efficient regulations ; and we commit it to 
 your guardian care, trusting that you will 
 over it with an attention and an assiduity which 
 shall ensure, under the divine bl 
 benetits which it proposes to confer upon your 
 numerous families, and, perhaps, ou children 
 
A DEAD CALM THE HARVEY ISLANDS. 
 
 177 
 
 yet unborn. Accept of this institution as a 
 proof of the Society's affection for you, and its 
 concern for the welfare of your rising families : 
 a more convincing proof it could not give you. 
 " Never, brethren, were men placed in cir- 
 cumstances more important, more responsible, 
 and more desirable than yours ; and never did 
 men more need divine wisdom, prudence, and 
 circumspection than you. Not only the present, 
 but future, generations hang upon your deci- 
 I sions. In things both temporal and spiritual, 
 j the people, from the highest to the lowest, look 
 to you for counsel, and instruction, and ex- 
 ample. An error in judgment, or in conduct, 
 affecting any point of importance, might be fol- 
 lowed by results beyond calculation injurious. 
 While you will feel the indispensable import- 
 ance of constantly seeking that wisdom which 
 comes from above, and that aid which God 
 only can afford, your united exertions, your 
 mutual counsel, and your general co-operation, 
 will, under the smiles of Heaven, realize the 
 hopes which the Society and the Christian 
 world entertain. 
 
 " The period which we have spent with you 
 we reckon with the happiest of our lives ; and 
 we shall ever recollect it with the warmest 
 gratitude to God who kindly conferred this 
 honour upon us. Accept our affectionate grati- 
 tude for every kind and friendly attention 
 which we have received in your several families. 
 Allow us to share your esteem and your affec- 
 tionate prayers. Cultivate the spirit of strong 
 Christian love among yourselves, and that union 
 of heart and co-operation in all your plans and 
 exertions which will ever strengthen your 
 hands and promise success in your work, while 
 it will tend to establish the confidence of the 
 Society in the wisdom of your operations. 
 
 " Affectionately we commend you, and your 
 partners, and families, and flocks, to God, and 
 t;> the word of his grace, who is able to keep 
 you from falling, ami to present you faultless 
 before the presence of his glory with exceeding 
 joy. " We remain, 
 
 Dear Friends and Brethren, 
 Yours, with great esteem, 
 
 In the bonds of the Gospel, 
 (Signed) DANIEL TYERMAN, 
 
 GEORGE BENNET." 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 A Dead Calm The Harvey Islands Two Native Mis- 
 sionaries left there Their Labours and Success The 
 Deputation land at Atui Christianity on that Island 
 Extraordinary Preservation of five Christian Nati\es 
 Rarotonga Reflections Affecting Account of OH 
 ami M\ do, the two first Converts to Christianity from 
 the Booth Sea Islands Sailing on the (ireat South 
 Sea Reach Wangaroa Bay, New Zealand. 
 
 1824. JUNE 9. We are in a dead calm, rolling 
 upon the indolent waves beneath a burning sun, 
 and unable to proceed on our course. Nothing 
 can be more patience-trying than a rainy, hot, 
 breathless atmosphere, to those who are im- 
 prisoned in a small crowded vessel like ours, in 
 which there is scarcely room to turn round 
 without encountering one another, or stumbling 
 against furniture, ropes, masts, or tackle of one 
 
 or other description ; the ship meanwhile head- 
 ing in all directions, like a buoy fastened to the 
 bottom, but weltering on the surface, as though 
 it might rock without resting for ever and ever. 
 The confinement on board is not less noisome 
 than inconvenient, from the closeness of the 
 cabin and the stench of the bilge-Avater, which 
 so contaminates the air that articles of silver or 
 brass, within an hour or two of exposure to its 
 taint, become completely bronzed, so that the 
 metal of which they are made cannot be distin- 
 guished. However, the leakage being greater 
 during the voyage than in harbour, this pest has 
 already abated a little, or we perceive it less 
 as the so far happy effect of never being free 
 from it. 
 
 June 15. After much weary sailing, we 
 reached Manaia, or Mangeea (as Captain Cook 
 called it), one of the Harvey Islands, inhabited 
 wholly by heathen in a state of truly savage 
 barbarism. Last year Mr. Williams had sent 
 on shore here two Christian teachers and their 
 wives ; but, before the ship sailed, they all re- 
 turned on board, escaping barely with their 
 lives, their clothes having been torn from their 
 backs, their property seized, and the women 
 shamefully maltreated. These things, however, 
 did not discourage the church of Tahaa, two 
 unmarried members of which, named David a 
 and Tiere, offered to go thither at any peril, to 
 carry the gospel to those who only were what 
 they once were untamed, unprincipled, un- 
 courteous because they had it not. On our 
 arrival, Captain Dacre sent a boat with the two 
 devoted men as near to the reef as was practi- 
 cable, when, there being no opening, they 
 leaped into the surf, and swam across the still 
 water beyond to the beach, taking nothing with 
 them but the slight dresses which they wore, 
 and " the sword of the Spirit, which is the word 
 of God," in their hands namely, a copy of the 
 then translated parts of the Testament. Contrary 
 to expectation, they were kindly received by the 
 natives; a number of whom came off in small 
 canoes, containing a single person in each, bring- 
 ing fruit and other things to exchange for iron and 
 such European articles, of small value to us, but 
 treasures to them, as we could furnish. After 
 the lapse of a few hours, Tiere came back to us 
 in a canoe, to fetch what little property belonged 
 to himself and his companion, consisting of 
 clothes, tools, and books, saying that now they 
 durst trust life and everything among these poor 
 heathen. Confiding them not to the hands of 
 men, but to the care of God, we left these good 
 and faithful followers of the Lord Jesus Christ, to 
 tread in his steps, and, as his under-shepherds, 
 to go forth into this wilderness in search of 
 those lost sheep whom He came to seek and to 
 save, and who shall be hereafter gathered into 
 his eternal fold. 
 
 [We may add here the pleasing intelligence 
 which has since been received from this quarter. 
 Fifteen months after our departure, Mr. Bourne 
 from Tahaa visited this island, and witnessed 
 how much good can be done, in a small time, 
 and by weak instruments, when the gospel, 
 accompanied by the power of God, is preached 
 
178 
 
 THE GOSPEL AT MANAIA THE ISLAND OF ATUI. 
 
 with the utmost possible simplicity, and exem- 
 plified in the humble, holy, self-denying conduct 
 and conversation of its professors. Davida and 
 Tiere, after our ship had passed out of sight, 
 were confined by command of the king in tin- 
 house of one of the false divinities of Manaia. 
 Here, knowing the customs that prevail through 
 all the islands of the South Seas, they considered 
 that, being confined in his temple, their persons 
 had become tabued or sacred, and the property 
 of the god, to which, if the priest required, they 
 might be at any instant sacrificed. During 
 three days, however, they were kept in perfect 
 peace, their minds being stayed upon the true 
 God, against whom all idols of the Gentiles are 
 but as Dagon, of old, in the presence of the 
 ark. The king then suddenly ordered them to 
 be set at liberty, gave them land on which to 
 settle, and not only protected them in following 
 the manual arts which they exercised for the 
 benefit of themselves and the natives, but 
 allowed them free permission to pray and 
 preach as they thought proper. They were in- 
 formed that, SOOn :iftcr tin- first teach, -rs ami 
 their wives had been robbed and dri\eu away 
 by ill usage, an epidemical disease had broken 
 out in the island, \\hich swept away nearly one 
 in twelve of the whole population. Ascribing 
 this plague to the vengeance of the God of the 
 strangers, they carried the property which they 
 had taken from them and threw it into the IV, 
 a deep cavern in one of the mountains, which 
 was the common sepulchre of their dead ; and 
 further determined never again to behave with 
 brutal inhospitality i towards friendly visitors. 
 Providentially, some copies of portions of the 
 Tihitian Scriptures had been preserved, which 
 were now restored to the new Missionaries, and 
 with those which they had themselves brought 
 thither became useful school-books. The les- 
 sons of these they taught so successfully that 
 already a considerable change for the better 
 had been effected in the manners of the people 
 at large, and about a hundred and twenty con- 
 verts had joined their instructors in Christian 
 fellowship. These were easily distinguishable 
 by their improved personal appearance in dn-s* 
 and demeanour; as well as manifestly exalted 
 in domestic society, by learning to construct 
 more comfortable dwellings, to inanufactuie 
 better cloth and superior implements of hus- 
 bandry and fishing. Many of them had also 
 learned to spell and to read. The island afore- 
 time had been subject to frequent famines, 
 which had exceedingly thinned the population. 
 These, indeed, were judgments brought upon 
 themsehes, in a great measure by their idleness 
 and improvidence, and scarcely less by their 
 malignant dispositions, which prevented the 
 increase of the supply of provisions ; for if a 
 man planted a number of bread-fruit trees that 
 promised to enrich him, his envious neighbours 
 would wantonly pull them up : and he who 
 went to sleep at night under their shadow might 
 awake in the morning amidst their uprooted 
 trunks. 
 
 Davida and Tiere, by introducing to their 
 acquaintance several new sorts of native food 
 
 (of which it seems the people had been stupidly 
 ignorant before), taught them how to profit by 
 those neglected bounties of Providence, which, 
 had they been swine or dogs, they would have 
 instinctively found out, if good for sustenance. 
 Tiere had died in the interval, but Davida was 
 continuing the good work which his "deceased 
 brother and he had begun. Thus, by native 
 teachers alone (for, till Mr. Bourne's visit, not 
 a white man had ever stepped upon that shore), 
 religion, morality, agriculture, boat and house- 
 building, manufactures, &c. all that the tem- 
 poral and spiritual wants of a whole nation re- 
 quired were more advanced in sixteen months 
 than the same had been in all the centuries 
 which had elapsed before. "When Mr. Bourne 
 landed, the astonishment of the simple inhabit- 
 ants at his personal appearance was v 
 markable; they laid hold of his hands, and ex- 
 amined curiously, to see whether they were 
 verily made of flesh and blood. "When. 
 tify their curiosity, he turned up his 
 they were startled at the whiteness of his skin, 
 and one of them cried out that he must be a 
 great king, or he never would have been of that 
 complexion.] 
 
 June 19. This day we arrived at A tui, another 
 of the Harvey group, where teachers had 
 been placed some time ago. Here the tir.-t 
 intelligence communicated to us was tl 
 whole population had renounced their idols, 
 and built a large chapel. The circumM:; 
 this change were peculiar. Some time ago a 
 vessel, belonging to Uaiatea, with the nathes 
 on board, had been sent on an errand to us at 
 Tahiti ; but, since the time when they had 
 sail on their return, no intelligence coneernintr 
 them had e\er reached the relatives of the small 
 crew. The conclusion was that they must ha\v 
 perished at sea. To-day, as a canoe approached 
 our . ves<i 1, \\ i ot.M-nrd that the rowers, espe- 
 cially the helmsman, exhibited tokens of the 
 highest delight at the view of our ship. "When 
 they came on board, the helmsman was immedi- 
 atel'y rceogni>ed, and he and his companions 
 proved to be the very crew of the missing boat 
 from Raiatea. They said that, on their return 
 to Tahiti, being off Eimeo, night came on, when 
 they fastened up their sails and went If 
 in fearless security, leaving the boat to the 
 mercy of the waves till morning, expecting then 
 to be able, as usual, to direct their course home- 
 ward by known sea-marks. "When they awoke, 
 however, they found themsehes involved in a 
 thick fog, which turned to pouring rain, and 
 was followed by a violent wind that dr<>\ 
 utterly beyond their reckoning. Six 
 were they floating, they knew not whither, on 
 the pathless and fathomless deep, in which at 
 length there was no other prospect, so far as 
 man could calculate, but that they must be 
 finally engulfed; yet their faith never failed, 
 and flic simplicity as well as the strength of 
 that faith was very striking, for when -u 
 them if, in their forlorn situation, they did not 
 expect to perish of famine, or to be drowned in 
 the ocean, they replied, "Oh, no! for we prayed 
 to God I" When first carried away, they had 
 
EXTRAORDINARY PRESERVATION ISLAND OF RAROTONGA. 
 
 179 
 
 with them a quantity of vi-apples, cocoa-nuts, 
 bananas, a little water, and two bamboos (about 
 a gallon and a half) of cocoa-nut oil. On these, 
 by taking only a small portion twice a day, they 
 subsisted five 'weeks, when, the solid food being 
 all exhausted, and every drop of water long ago 
 spent, they kept life in them by dipping a few 
 fibres of the cocoa-nut husk in the oil, and 
 masticating these between their teeth, to extort 
 the slight nourishment, and moisten their 
 mouths, parched with tormenting thirst. Thus, 
 morning, noon, and night, as long as they were 
 able, they worked at the oars, prayed, and sang; 
 they read the Scriptures as the daily bread of 
 their souls, and duly remembered the Sabbaths. 
 It was very affecting to hear one of them say 
 how, amidst the roaring of the sea, they sang 
 till their " voices went away." Yes, truly, but 
 it was "into heaven" that their voices went 
 
 away, as those of the angels who sang " glory 
 to God in the highest," at the nativity of the 
 Redeemer : their prayers of faith, and their 
 songs of thanksgiving, were heard before the 
 throne, even when their lips had no longer 
 power to utter them, and they were answered 
 by deliverance. At the end of six weeks they 
 were drifted, by the millions of waves on which 
 they had been borne, to a motu near this island 
 of Atui, where some of the natives found them, 
 worn to skeletons with hunger, and strengthless 
 with fatigue, but "rejoicing in hope, patient in 
 tribulation." By these they were fed and 
 nursed, and, as soon as they could bear it, re- 
 moved to Atui, where they gradually recovered 
 health, and afterwards preached the gospel with 
 such power that the remaining half of the popu- 
 lation, till then unconverted, believed and cast 
 away their idols. 
 
 
 School hous at liarotonga. 
 
 At Atui we left two native Missionaries, 
 I Faride and Tubu, with their wives and two 
 children. These are destined for Alauti and 
 Mitiaro, two islands which we were prevented 
 from touching at by a storm on the days previ- 
 ous to our arrival at Manaia. 
 
 June 18. We left Atui and stood for Raro- 
 tongu, another island of the same group, where 
 the gospel has been planted, as in .Manaia and 
 Atui, by native teachers, and where it has 
 flourished more than in either of the former. 
 The people are building a chapel six hundred 
 feet in length, which was half finished when we 
 saw it. But a twelvemonth ago these were in 
 the state in which we saw the Manaians gross, 
 tierce, crafty barbarians; now gentle, upright, 
 and well behaved, attending with diligence to 
 
 the means of grace, and daily making progress 
 in the arts of civilized life. 
 
 June 19. We left Rarotonga on the evening 
 ul' this da\, and now, having completed our 
 work in the South Seas, we proceeded on our 
 \oyagr towards New /ealand. The foregoing 
 portions of our journal will show that, immedi- 
 ately before leaving the islands finally, AVC had 
 the opportunity of paying short visits to all the 
 Missionary stations ; when we rejoice to say 
 that we left all the churches in peace and har- 
 mony, and advancing both in spiritual and tem- 
 poral prosperity. The number of communi- 
 cants everywhere was rapidly increasing, while 
 not only those who had been admitted into full 
 church-fellowship, but also the baptized gene- 
 rally, were conducting themselves with great 
 
 N 2 
 
180 
 
 FIRST SOUTH-SEA-ISLAND CONVERTS OLI AND MYDO. 
 
 propriety. There were, indeed, very few ex- 
 ceptions to this statement. No errors in doc- 
 trine had been permitted to appear. All the 
 brethren were not only sound in the faith, and 
 regularly devoted to their glorious and blessed 
 work, but were held in high esteem by their 
 several congregations, and enjoying great con- 
 cord and friendship one with another, striving 
 together for the faith of the gospel. 
 
 We had the gratification of receiving, from 
 all of them, private letters of thanks, addressed 
 to us individually, as well as joint letters, un- 
 solicited on our part from them, as distinct 
 bodies of Christian labourers of the windward 
 and leeward islands, including every individual 
 Missionary. As we had endeavoured to dis- 
 charge our duties with the purest fidelity ever 
 since our arrival among them, nothing could be 
 more acceptable to us. We thus left all the 
 brethren our avowed and affectionate friends, 
 and we feel persuaded that we enjoy their entire 
 confidence. 
 
 And here, with propriety, may be introduced 
 a little history, scarcely remembered even by 
 the old friends of the London Missionary So- 
 ciety, and altogether unknown to the greater 
 portion of those who have become such within 
 the present century. It has been shown tlr.it 
 the Missionaries in Tahiti and Eimeo laboured 
 many years apparently without any regenerating 
 influence upon the hearts of their heathen 
 hearers, while the great multitude of the popu- 
 lation either would not hear them at all, or, 
 when they did for a moment or two either sus- 
 pend their labours or their sports to listen to 
 what such babblers (as they deemed them) 
 would say, only heard with mocking or enmity. 
 It was not till 'tin; year ISTJ that Toman- king 
 of Tahiti publicly professed his belief in Jeho- 
 vah, the true God, and his determination to 
 ohe\ the gospel. Laying out of sight the equi- 
 vocal conversion of this great but imprudent 
 man, in the year following signs of genuine 
 awakening appeared among several natives of 
 humbler station, and two of them " began to 
 pray ;" from which time the work of regenera- 
 tion has continued increasing and extending to 
 this day. 
 
 The first-fruits, however, of these Gentiles, 
 were two youths, the one called Oli, the other 
 Myclo, of Tahiti, who, in 17!'., engaged them- 
 selves on board of a South Sea whaler, because, 
 as they said, they wanted to see the country 
 from which the ship came. On their arrival 
 in Kngland, the following year, the directors of 
 the London Missionary Society took them up, 
 and the late Rev. Dr. Haweis, and Joseph 
 Hardcastle, Esq., especially, befriended them. 
 Two years afterwards, when they had learned a 
 little English, in order that they might have a 
 quiet asylum, and enjoy an opportunity of 
 Christian instruction in its simplest form, their 
 kind patrons placed them in a school, recently 
 established by the Moravian Brethren, at Mir- 
 field, in the West Riding of Yorkshire, where 
 they wen- indulged with the accommodation of 
 a private room, and placed under the particular 
 superintendance of the teachers and ministers of 
 
 the congregation. Here the poor heathen lads 
 lived comfortably for about twelve months, 
 attending the classes of the other scholars as 
 soon as they were qualified, and associating with 
 them in their leisure hours, and on their daily 
 walks in the neighbourhood. Owing, however, 
 to unpreparedness of mind in early youth, as 
 well as natural indolence, and delicate health in 
 a moist and cold climate, their progress in 
 learning was slow; but they could, in the end, 
 read and write tolerably well. In their general 
 conduct they were strictly moral, and rewarded 
 the kindness shown to them with corresponding 
 gratitude and affection. 
 
 Oli distinguished himself from his companion 
 by a certain conscious superiority, as though he 
 were of higher birth (probably the son of some 
 chief) and he occasionally showed his blood 
 not less in the pride and fierceness, than in tin- 
 more generous qualities, that are often associ- 
 ated with hereditary rank among sa\;m. -s. lie 
 had more stateliness of demeanour, with larger 
 intellectual capacity, than his unpretending 
 companion, and displayed greater order, 
 larity, and promptitude, in all his hah/ 
 transactions. Sometimes, indeed, the haughti- 
 ness of his manners, notwithstanding his help- 
 less and dependent situation, manifested a 
 spirit, even towards his benefactors, that could 
 ill brook submission, and scorned to be con- 
 trolled. Mydo, though apparently of humbler 
 origin and qualifications, gained the esteem of 
 his instructors and comrades not less than he. 
 
 But while these youths, in their character 
 and behaviour, exhibited much docility, arnia- 
 bleness, and intelligence, no traces of conversion 
 of heart \\eie discovered in either till they both 
 fell sick, and " that sickness was not unto de:.th, 
 but for the glory of God." Sometin. 
 their arrival at Mirlield they each caught the 
 measles; hut the l.onl blessed the HUM: 
 plowed for their recovery. Mydo bore hi 
 of affliction with great patience and fortitude; 
 thenceforward, too, he became more thoughtful 
 about himself, and more inclined to converse on 
 spiritual subjects. He ascribed his recent re- 
 covery, not to the skill of the physician, but to 
 the power and fielp of Cod. livery night, 
 therefore, on going to bed, he devoutly repeated 
 the Lord's prayer, and now and then was over- 
 heard praying to our Saviour in his own way. 
 These were gracious tokens, and rejoiced the 
 hearts of his teachers and friends, who did all 
 they could to lead him gently in the wa\ of 
 truth, and encourage him to endeavour to press 
 forward in the same. 
 
 One morning he thus addressed the person 
 who waited upon him (we attempt not to repeat 
 his broken English) : " You told me that my 
 soul could not die, and I have been thinking 
 about it, how it is. Last night my body lay 
 upon that bed, but T knew nothing of it, for my 
 soul was very far off. It was in Tahiti. I am 
 sure that I saw my mother and my companions 
 there. I saw the trees, and the houses, and the 
 hills, just as I left them. I spoke to the people, 
 and the people spoke to me; and yet all the 
 while my body was lying quite still in this 
 
OLI AND MYDO COAST-SCENERY OF NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 181 
 
 room. In the morning I was come back again 
 into my body, and was at Mirfield again, and 
 Tahiti was a great many miles off, over the sea. 
 Now I understand what you say about my body 
 being put into the earth, and my soul being some- 
 where else ; and I wish to know where it will 
 live then, when it can no more return to my 
 body as it did last night." This afforded a 
 happy opportunity of preaching the gospel to 
 him, and he heard it gladly. 
 
 Oli being again seized with dangerous indis- 
 position, Mydo showed the most earnest desire 
 that his poor countryman might be converted, 
 and frequently said, in his peculiar brief, point- 
 ed way, " Oli bad man ; Oli no love God ; OH 
 never pray!" In June, 1803, Mydo himself 
 was reduced to the borders of the grave by an 
 incurable abscess in the chest. This made him 
 very serious, and sometimes low-spirited. He 
 now urged a request, which he had often made 
 before, that he might receive baptism. "When 
 the design and importance of that Christian 
 rite were more particularly explained to him, 
 he seemed to enter fully into the meaning, and 
 with unfeigned humility answered several ques- 
 tions that were put to him, adding, "I bad 
 man; I know, I feel, I bad man!" On the 
 22nd of September he was brought upon his 
 bi-d into the chapel, by his own particular desire, 
 and in the presence of a great congregation, 
 who were all deeply affected by the solemnity 
 of the scene, he was baptized by the bishop of 
 the brethren's church (then residing at Ful- 
 iM-ck, near Leeds), in the name of the Holy Tri- 
 nity, and into the death of Jesus. He received 
 the appropriate name of Christian, being the 
 first of his people to whom it could be given. 
 He was baptized for the dead. Being carried 
 back to the sick chamber, his bodily pains 
 seemed to forsake him ; he remained in a com- 
 fortable frame of mind, and in the course of the 
 following day expired, leaving a firm conviction, 
 on the hearts of all who witnessed his last end, 
 that he died the death of the righteous. 
 
 .Meanwhile Oli, who, at the time when 
 Mydo had expressed such tender concern for 
 him, appealed hardened and blinded in igno- 
 rance and unbelief, began to show signs of 
 compunction. As the illness of his companion 
 and his own inHrmity increased, he became 
 more and more humbled and penitent, confess- 
 ing his sense of sin, and his sorrow on account 
 I of it, anxiously desiring to find pardon and 
 peace, through the mercy of God his Saviour. 
 Then, indeed whenever the love of the Re- 
 deemer, and the blessedness of those who follow 
 him hero, and are admitted into the mansions 
 which he is gone to prepare for them in heaven, 
 were the subjects of conversation he was so 
 much moved that the tears would roll plenti- 
 fully down his cheeks. These hopeful signs 
 that the Holy Spirit was regenerating his soul, 
 and bringing him to Christ, induced the 
 brethren no longer to postpone his admission 
 into the visible church. Accordingly, on the 
 day of Mydo's funeral, Oli was baptized, and 
 called Joseph, after the name of his venerable 
 benefactor, Mr. Hardcastle. He was very 
 
 feeble at the time, but able, nevertheless, to 
 walk into the chapel, and receive the sacred 
 ordinance in the manner usual with adults 
 among the brethren. When the question was 
 put to him, "Dost thou desire to be delivered 
 from the power of sin and Satan, and to be 
 received into the fellowship of Jesus Christ, 
 and of those who believe in him, by holy bap- 
 tism 1" he answered, "Yes, certainly I do," 
 with such fervency as drew tears from the eyes 
 of all present, according to the testimony of a 
 spectator. He died, in a gentle manner, in the 
 night between the 13th and llth of October 
 following, aged about nineteen years. Mydo 
 might be two years younger. Their bodies lie 
 in the brethren's burying-ground at Mirfield. 
 
 July 14. Ever since the 20th of June we have 
 been traversing the South Pacific in our small 
 vessel, of less burthen than the ordinary barges 
 on British canals, amidst the usual diversity of 
 weather, but without any extraordinary incident 
 to record ; and this day, by the good hand of 
 our God upon us, we discovered the Three 
 Kings ahead rocks standing above the water, 
 about thirty-five miles off the northern ex- 
 tremity of New Zealand. The wind having 
 been adverse for several days, which rendered 
 it impracticable to advance towards New Hol- 
 land, Captain Dacre determined to make for 
 Wangaroa bay, on this coast, to obtain supplies 
 of hogs, water, and wood our stores of this 
 kind being nearly exhausted, and a voyage, of 
 thirteen hundred miles yet to be accomplished. 
 The ship was, therefore, put about, and Ave 
 made for our proposed haven, at the distance 
 of a hundred and twenty miles. ' 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 uery of New Zealand Approach and Appear- 
 ance of the Natives Their Canoes Their ferocious 
 Conduct, and the perilous Situation of Hie Drputa 
 tion and the Crew, while the Ship was in possession of 
 the Savages Deliverance from Captivity and Death by 
 
 the Chief George, cod the \\esleyan Missionary, Mr. 
 White Visit to the. \Vesleyan s'talion Uernarkable 
 Cure of a Diseased Native, with his own description of 
 it Sail from Waiigaroa Bay Anchor in Sydney Cove, 
 New Holland. 
 
 1824. JULY 15. This bay, which we duly 
 reached, is so completely shut in, that it Avas 
 not discovered till we had approached nearly 
 alongshore of it. The entrance is about a 
 quarter of a mile in length, and no more than a 
 furlong in width, but of sufficient deptli of 
 water to admit any ship to sail into the har- 
 bour, which, at the extremity of the strait, 
 btoadeni into a beautiful basin, surrounded 
 with rocks and highlands. This, however, is 
 only the ante-port, and through another narrow 
 channel we passed into the main harbour an 
 immense expanse of sheltered water which 
 (with the loveliest image of repose that nature 
 can exhibit, as clear and tranquil as the over- 
 arching firmament itself) seemed to bring the 
 deliciousness of rest into our very souls, after 
 the anxieties and toils of a weary voyage on a 
 turbulent ocean. In front of this entrance ap- 
 pears a circular island, very precipitous, and 
 about seven hundred feet in elevation. On the 
 
182 
 
 NEW ZEALANDERS KNAVERY AND FEROCITY. 
 
 slopes are seen the houses and fatas (wooden 
 stages, on which potatoes are stored, out of the 
 reach of hogs, dogs, and vermin) of a consider- 
 able village. Leaving this island on the lar- 
 board, we came to anchor about a mile above 
 it, in six fathoms water. The view, on every 
 hand, from our vessel, was singularly attractive 
 to our eyes, and refreshing to our spirits, worn 
 out with the monotony of billow on billow, in 
 calm or in gale, presenting the aspect of an un- 
 inhabited, uninhabitable waste, rarely even 
 crossed by a solitary ship like our own, with 
 nearly as little probability of descrying another 
 sail as the raven of Noah, that never returned, 
 had the chance of meeting the dove on its first 
 excursion from the ark, while, as yet, 
 
 "One shoreless ocean tumbled round the globe." 
 This bay is coasted by bold headlands, between 
 which run numerous coves, bounded by emi- 
 nences of great height, some bare, others 
 wooded, and in many places patches of cultiva- 
 tion occasionally rising from the edge of the 
 beach to the mountain-top. The whole is 
 about ten miles in length, stretching north and 
 south, while the breadth varies from three 
 to four miles. 
 
 We were presently visited by the natives, in 
 their canoes, carrying six or seven each men, 
 women, and children. All appeared friendly, 
 without any war-weapons that we could dis- 
 cover, except two old spears at the bottom of 
 one of tke boats. They brought, in no great 
 quantity, potatoes, cabbages, fowls, and natural 
 curiosities for sale ; but their demands for arti- 
 cles in exchange were so cxorbiaut that few 
 bargains were made. The general appearance 
 of these people was sn\ :;:,'. and tilthy ; some of 
 them had smeared their bodies over with red 
 paint. Their faces, and other parts of their 
 persons, were frightful with tutooing, which, 
 witli them, is very deep scarification, and far in- 
 ferior in delicate and curious execution to \vhat 
 we have been accustomed to see in the Society 
 Islands. The lines appeared like grooves 
 ploughed upon the skin, yet the figures were 
 cleverly and ably expressed. People of both 
 sexes had great holes bored in their ear*. 
 through which were thrust bits of cloth rolled 
 tight, or rounded pieces of wood. Their cloth- 
 ing consisted chiefly of mats made of rushes, or 
 native flax, so intertwisted that the ends over- 
 hung the outside like thatch. This dress, being 
 flung over the shoulders, reached towards the 
 calf of the leg; few of the men used anything 
 beside ; but the women wore girdles of the same 
 materials. Both males and females hail hniir 
 hair, which some gathered up in a knot, with a 
 wreath of cloth, upon the top of their heads. 
 The manners of young and old were as disgust- 
 ing and contrary to decorum as their raiment 
 and persons were filthy and annoying to more 
 senses than one. They were unashamed of 
 what is most unseemly, and appeared as- 
 tonished at our insensibility to their courteous- 
 ness. Towards nightfall they all returned on 
 shore. Ammunition had been the principal 
 commodity for which they wanted to exchange 
 their produce. 
 
 Their canoes were from thirty to forty feet in 
 length,, and three to four in width, each hol- 
 lowed out of the trunk of a single tree, narrow 
 at either end, and broadest in the middle ; hav- 
 ing cross-bars to strengthen the sides. Some of 
 these were painted red, and rudely carved with 
 figures, which, without being in the secret of 
 what the sculptor aimed at, might be gu< - 
 by knowing what he had missed. Their pad- 
 dles were long, lancet-shaped, and very narrow. 
 With these they navigate their simple 
 sufficiently well ; the latter, being wide above, 
 and reduced to an angle along the keel, are cal- 
 culated for steady sailing. 
 
 'Anxious to see the Wesleyan Missionaries, 
 whose station lay about six miles from our 
 anchorage, we engaged a large canoe to take us 
 thither, but were obliged, on account of the 
 cold and squally weather, to relinquish the at- 
 tempt. Captain Dacre (one of our owners), 
 however, went in the ship's boat to inform the 
 brethren of our arrival. 
 
 July 16. This morning our little vessel was 
 surrounded with canoes, containing several 
 hundreds of the natives, of both sexes, who 
 presently climbed up, and crowded it so much 
 that we were obliged to put up a liar ac: 
 quarter-deck, and tabu it from intrusion. The 
 commerce in various articles, on both sides, 
 went on pretty well for some time, till one pro- 
 voking circumstance after another occurred, 
 which had nearly led to the seizure of the ship 
 and the loss of our lives. In the confusion oc- 
 casioned by the great throng within so narrow 
 a space, the natives began to exercise their pil- 
 fering tricks, opportunities for which are seldom 
 permitted to slip away unimproved. Suddenly 
 the cook cried out, "" They have stolen this 
 thing," but scarcely had he named the thing 
 (some kitchen article) when he called out 
 again, "They have stolen the bi-.-f out of tin- 
 pot!" and then a third time, They ha\e 
 stolen my cooking-pans!" Presently another 
 voice bawled out from the forecastle, " Captain ! 
 they have broken open your trunk, and carried 
 away your clothes " Up to this time \\ 
 IK in in friendly intercourse with the chiefs, 
 rubbing noses, and purchasing their p. 
 ornaments and other curiosities, suspecting no 
 mischief. I>ut now, in the course of a few mo- 
 ments, without our perceiving the immedi- 
 ate reason, the whole scene was changed. We 
 found afterwards that the captain ( Dibbs), on 
 hearing of the audacious thefts above men- 
 tioned, ^ad become anirry. and while" he was 
 endeavouring, rather boisterously. !> clear the 
 deck of some of the intruders, one of them, a 
 chief, on being jostled by him, fell over tin- 
 ship's side into the sea, between his ovwi canoe 
 and the vessel. This was seized instantane- 
 ously as the pretext for commencing hostilities. 
 The women and children, in the course of a 
 few seconds, had all disappeared, leaping over- 
 board into their canoes, and taking with them 
 the kakaous, or mantles, of the warriors. Tin- 
 latter, thus stripped for action, remained on 
 deck, of which, before we were aware, they 
 had taken complete possession, and forthwith 
 
VESSEL SEIZED BY THE NATIVES PERIL OF ALL ON BOARD. 
 
 183 
 
 made us their prisoners. Tremendous were 
 the howlings and screechings of the barbarians 
 while they stamped, and brandished their 
 weapons, consisting principally of clubs and 
 spears. One chief with his cookies (his slaves) 
 had surrounded the captain, holding their 
 spears at his breast and his sides, on the lar- 
 board quarter of the vessel. Mr. Tyerman, 
 under guard of another band, stood on the star- 
 board ; and Mr. Bennet on the same side, but 
 aft, towards the stern. Mr. Threlkeld, and his 
 little boy, not seven years old, were near Mr. 
 Bennet, not under direct manual grasp of the 
 savages. The chief, who, with his gang, had 
 been trafficking with Mr. Bennet, now brought 
 his huge tatooed visage near to Mr. B's, scream- 
 ing, in tones the most odious and horrifying, 
 " Tongata New Zealandi , tongata kakino? 
 Tongata New Zealandi, tongata kakino /" This 
 he repeated as rapidly as lips, tongue, and 
 throat could utter the words, which mean, 
 " Man of New Zealand, is he bad man 7 Man 
 of New Zealand, a bad man?" Happily Mr. 
 Bennet understood the question (the New Zea- 
 land dialect much resembling the Tahitian), 
 wherefore, though convinced that inevitable 
 death was at hand, he answered, with as much 
 composure as could be assumed, " Kaore 
 kakino, tongata New Zealandi, tongata kapai :" 
 "Not bad; the New Zealander is a good 
 man." And so often as the other, with inde- 
 scribable ferocity of aspect and sharpness of ac- 
 cent, askeil the same question (which might be 
 a hundred times), the same answer was returned. 
 " But," inquired Mr. Bennet, " why is all this 
 uproar? Why cannot we still rub noses, and 
 buy ;md sell, and barter, as before 1 ?" At this 
 moment a stout slave, belonging to this chief, 
 stepped behind Mr. Bennet, and pinioned both 
 his arms close to his sides. No effort was 
 made to resist or elude the gigantic grasp, Mr. 
 B. knowing that such would only accelerate the 
 threatened destruction. Still, therefore, he 
 maintained his calmness, and asked the chief 
 the price of a neck ornament which the latter 
 wore. Immediately another slave raised a large 
 tree-felling axe (which with others had been 
 brought to be sharpened by the ship's car- 
 penter) over the head of the prisoner. This 
 ruffian looked with demon-like eagerness and 
 iiii[t;itience towards his master, for the signal to 
 strike. And here it may be observed that our 
 good countrymen can have no idea of the al- 
 most preternatural fury which savages can 
 throw into their distorted countenances, ami 
 infuse into their deafening and appalling voices, 
 when they are possessed by the legion-fiend of 
 rage, cupidity, and revenge. 
 
 Mr. Hennet persevered in keeping up conver- 
 sation with the chief, saying, " We want to 
 buy buaa, kumara, ika, &c., (hogs, potatoes, 
 fish,) of you." Just then he perceived a youth 
 stepping on deck, with a large fish in his hand. 
 "What shall I give for that fish "J" " Why, so 
 many fish-hooks." " Well, then, put your 
 hand into my pocket and take them." The 
 fellow did so. " Now put the fish down there, 
 on the binnacle, and bring some more, if you 
 
 have any," said Mr. Bennet. At once the fish, 
 which he had just bought, was brought round 
 from behind and presented to him again for 
 sale. He took no notice of the knavery, but 
 demanded, "What shall I give you for that 
 fishl" "So many hooks." "Take them: 
 have you no other fish to selll" A third time 
 the same fish was offered, and the same price, 
 in hooks, required and given, or rather taken, 
 by the vender, out of his jacket-pockets, which 
 happened to be well stored with this currency 
 for traffic. A fourth time Mr. B. asked, 
 " Have you never another fish 1" At this the 
 rogues could contain their scorn no longer, but 
 burst into laughter, and cried, " We are cheat- 
 ing the foreigner," (tongata he,} supposing that 
 their customer was not aware how often they 
 had caught him with the same bait. Just then 
 one of the cookies, behind, plucked off Mr. 
 Bennet's seal-skin travelling-cap. This did not 
 give him particular alarm ; on the contrary, 
 expecting every instant to feel the stroke of the 
 axe, it slightly occurred to him that the blow, 
 falling upon his naked head, would more likely 
 prove effective, and need no repetition ; at the 
 same time, in earnest inward prayer, commend- 
 ing his spirit to the mercy of God, in whose 
 presence he doubted not that he should very 
 soon appear ; the thought of deliverance having 
 no conscious place in his mind during this ex- 
 tremity. While Mr. Bennet stood thus pin- 
 ioned, and in jeopardy, the axe gleaming over 
 his head and catching his eye whenever he 
 looked a little askance, he marked, a few yards 
 before him, his friend and companion, Mr. 
 Tyerman, under custody of another chief and 
 his cookies. These wretches were, from time 
 to time, handling his arms, his sides, and his 
 thighs, while, from the paleness of his counte- 
 nance though he remained perfectly tranquil 
 it was evident that he was not unaware of 
 the meaning of such familiarities ; namely, that 
 they were judging, Avith cannibal instinct, how 
 well he would cut up at the feast which they 
 anticipated, while each, like Milton's Death,- 
 
 " Ki-innM horribly, a "hastly smile, 
 
 And bless'd his maw, ili'stin'd to uiat good hour." 
 
 The captain, hemmed in with spears, con- 
 tinued a close, but evidently a very indignant, 
 captive, near the larboard-bow ; while Mr. 
 Threlkeld and his son moved backward and 
 forward, a few steps, on Mr. Bennet's left 
 hand. In the course of the scene the carpenter, 
 who had been in these parts before, and knew 
 the people*, came aft, till he got quite close to 
 Mr. Threlkeld, when, looking earnestly to- 
 wards Mr. Bennet, he said, "Sir, we shall all 
 be murdered and eaten up, in a few minutes." 
 Mr. Bennet replied, " Carpenter, I believe that 
 we shall certainly all be in eternity by that 
 time, but we are in the hands of God." The 
 carpenter then crept out of his view ; but Mr. 
 Threlkeld's little boy having heard, with 
 affright, what he had so emphatically pre- 
 dicted, grasped his father's hand, and cried out, 
 sobbing bitterly, "Father! father ! when 
 when they have killed us, will it will it hurt 
 us when they eat ust" The carpenter had 
 
184 
 
 SUDDEN DELIVERANCE VISIT TO WESLEYAN STATION. 
 
 some apprehension of the same kind as the 
 poor child's, and, apparently, felt greater hor- 
 ror of being devoured than of dying ; for pre- 
 sently Mr. Bennet who kept his eye, as much 
 as possible, turned from the impending axe, 
 lest the sight of it should affect his coun- 
 tenance, happening to glance aloof, spied the 
 carpenter athwart the larboard yard-arm, wait- 
 ing the issue, with a stern determination, 
 which indicated that, come what might, he had 
 chosen his lot. On being asked by Mr. Ben- 
 net, afterwards, why he had been so foolish as 
 to go aloft, as though there were a better 
 chance there of escaping the expected massacre 
 than below, he frankly answered, " I'knew that 
 I must die ; but I was resolved that the savages 
 should not eat me, and as soon as I saw them 
 cut you down with the axe, I would have 
 dropped down into the sea, and only have been 
 drowned, for I had weights about me which 
 would have sunk me at once." 
 
 The whole of this strange occurrence (during 
 which the cannibals never ceased to rage, and 
 threaten a destruction which an invisible and 
 almighty hand stayed them from executing) 
 lasted, as it seemed to us, nearly two hours. 
 At length deliverance came as suddenly as the 
 peril itself had come upon us. Several voices, 
 from different parts of the deck, cried out, 
 "A boat! a boat I" It sounded like, "Life! 
 life !" in our ears. Happily, it was our boat, 
 returning from the Wcsleyan settlement in 
 Wangaroa Bay, with the owner of our little ves- 
 sel, who had gone thither in it the night before. 
 He brought with him Mr. White, the Methodist 
 Missionary, and George, the principal chief in 
 this part of the island. The natives imme- 
 diately released us from restraint, and forbore 
 from violence, as soon as they perceived who 
 had come with the boat. When George got on 
 deck, his authority at once cleared it of our ene- 
 mies, who yielded implicit obedience, though 
 reluctantly, on account of the wrong which 
 they imagined had been wilfully done to their 
 chief, who fell overboard at the commencement 
 of the affray. To Mr. "White, also, we were 
 t,'re;itly indebted, for his friendly assistance and 
 seasonable interference on this occasion. At 
 his request, George consented to remain on 
 board, as our protector, till we should quit 
 the station. It is remarkable that this dreadful 
 chief, formerly the terror of Europeans, was 
 made the Lord's instrument for preserving our 
 lives, though, but fifteen years ago, at the head 
 of his cookies and clansmen, he had cap- 
 tured the ship Boyd, captain Thompson, and 
 slaughtered and devoured her whole company, 
 of ninety persons, except a young woman and 
 :i c:il)in-boy. This act of exterminating ven- 
 geance, for inhuman treatment which he had 
 himself experienced on board, while a passenger 
 in the same vessel from Sydney to New Zealand, 
 took place in this very bay ; and, while we were 
 held in durance, and menaced with the like fate, 
 a portion of the wreck of the Boyd was visible 
 from our deck, at intervals, as the waves between 
 rose and subsided in perpetual fluctuation. 
 
 Mr. White had come to invite us to visit the 
 
 settlement. When, therefore, peace had been 
 perfectly restored, and there appeared no rea- 
 son to apprehend any further attack from the 
 natives, we proceeded with him in a canoe to see 
 the Wesleyaii Missionary friends there. On our 
 way we sailed up a considerable creek, which 
 runs inland towards the east, and encounters a 
 river of fresh water. This stream is very wind- 
 ing, and in some places so shallow that the 
 native rowers were obliged to get out, and haul 
 the boat along. The banks are pleasingly di- 
 versified with flowering shrubs and scattered 
 trees, among which there is a species of pine, 
 rising to the height of seventy or eighty feet, 
 without a lateral ramification, and, near the 
 ground, more than two yards in diameter. The 
 foliage, in general, was full upon the shrubs 
 and trees, but many were bare, or withered, 
 and there is, by no means, that luxuriance of 
 vegetation to which our eyes have been so long 
 accustomed in the South Sea Islands that nature 
 here seems impoverished by the mere absence 
 of superfluity. 
 
 We passed many hovels, and were occasionally 
 addressed by their inhabitants, as well as by 
 straggling natives whom we met on the road, 
 with the national salutation, * Tenarki kokoe /" 
 Three hours after leaving the ship we arrhed at 
 the expected station, where we were most kindly 
 welcomed and hospitably entertained. The 
 little family consisted of the Rev. Mr. Turner, 
 Mrs. Turner, and the Rev Mr. White, with 
 Messrs. Hobbs and Stack, two assistants, and 
 ayounggirl, as domestic servant. Hitherto the 
 Lord has caused them to dwell in safety in this 
 dark land, amidst savages and cannibals, whose 
 menaces and aggressions have only been used as 
 means to extort property, occasionally, from them ; 
 but who usually dwell on fair terms with them, 
 though little inclined to hearken to the good word 
 ofGod. Onour walk in the neighbourhood, we 
 observed, at the door of one of the huts, a man 
 sit tini,', whose looks betokened late or actual 
 indisposition of a severe kind. On inquiry we 
 found that he was a principal priest who had 
 been tabued given over, in this case, to death 
 forsaken of his friends, and left to perish ; 
 the symptoms of his disease (a pleurisy) being 
 such that the superstitious people fancied the 
 god, or rather the devil, within was devouring 
 his heart. The Missionaries, hearing of his 
 distress, and guessing the real nature of the 
 complaint, obtained his consent to lay a larp- 
 blister a very large one, indeed, it was upon 
 his chest. In the night afterwards, the agony 
 of the disorder, and the irritation of the remedy, 
 were so intolerable, that the poor patient ap- 
 peared to become insane, and ran, like one 
 crazed, out of his house. The cure, however, 
 followed, and he is now convalescent. Hi- 
 says that, during the crisis of suffering, the bad 
 spirit within was pulling with all its might 
 against the Christian (the blister) spirit without, 
 so that between them he was almost torn to 
 pieces ; the Christian, however, proved the 
 strongest, and in plucking off the plaster fairly 
 dragged the bad spirit out of his breast. 
 
 For the encouragement of our Methodist 
 
TOWN OF SYDNEY BRITISH CONVICTS. 
 
 185 
 
 brethren here, we related to them, as far as time 
 would allow, what God had been pleased to do 
 for the poor heathen in the South Sea Archi- 
 pelago, and how even the Sandwich Islanders 
 had received the gospel. We spent the even- 
 ing, till a late hour, in Christian fellowship, in- 
 structive conversation, and prayer. 
 
 July 18. Yesterday we returned to the ship, 
 accompanied by Messrs. White and Hobbs, 
 who kindly staid with us till we sailed out of 
 the bay, early this morning ; and thus escaped 
 further anxiety and apprehension, lest the 
 treacherous people should again find a pre- 
 tence to assault and seize the vessel, which the 
 captain seemed fully persuaded they Avould at- 
 tempt. 
 
 Aug. 15. After a tedious voyage, we once 
 more saw land Cape Hawke and the Sugar- 
 loaf Point about twenty miles distant, and 
 something better than a hundred from Port 
 Jackson. 
 
 Aug. 19. We came to anchor at midnight in 
 Sydney Cove, New Holland, having been out 
 seventy-five days from Borabora. This harbour 
 is justly celebrated as one of the best in the 
 world, both for amplitude and safety, it branch- 
 ing off, in various directions (we are told), into 
 nearly a hundred coves. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 Town of Sydney Comfort Interchange of kindness 
 with sjooil Men British Convicts Visit to Parra- 
 
 matta .io\fui Feelings on the reception and penua] 
 
 of many letters from Friends in Filmland Sir Thomas 
 Brisbane Factory for Female Convicts Mr. ('unnin^- 
 h.im, the Hotanisf Nettle tre. Native Population of 
 New Holland Excursion from Parramatta lllac.k 
 Ants Wild Native Animals Orphan School Kiss- 
 ing Point Conversion of the New Hollanders Me- 
 thods of Civilization Customs and Habits of the 
 Natives Their Deaths and Marriages, Sagacity, In- 
 dolence, Ceremonies, and Tiaditions. 
 
 1824. Auo. 20. This morning the port-master 
 came on board, and granted us leave to land 
 wherever we chose. Accordingly we went on 
 shore at Mr. Campbell's wharf. The pro- 
 prietor received us very kindly ; he and several 
 other gentlemen, to whom we were introduced, 
 informed us that considerable fears for the 
 safety of our little vessel had been entertained 
 here. We, however, have cause to bless God 
 for having been permitted to set foot on board 
 of her, notwithstanding all the inconveniences 
 and perils which we have suffered and en- 
 countered on the voyage itself and off the coast 
 of New Zealand ; for every day has been to us 
 " a day of salvation." We took up our abode, 
 for the present, at the Sydney Hotel. 
 
 We are pleased, and rather surprised, to find 
 this town so large and well-looking ; to be sure 
 we have not seen anything like a European 
 town these three years and more ; so that 
 Sydney appears to high advantage in our eyes. 
 The buildings here are either stone or brick, of 
 which scarcely a specimen, however rude, can 
 be found on all the face of the Pacific. Many 
 of these, especially the recently-erected ones, are 
 in good style, and give the English idea of 
 comfort to the stranger who has long been ab- 
 
 sent from the only land (perhaps) in which 
 genuine comfort can be found as the pervading 
 genius foci of houses, villages, towns, and great 
 cities for comfort in England is not merely a 
 fire-side companion- on a winter-evening, but 
 " a presence" in which we feel oursejves every 
 day and everywhere, and which, like the poet's 
 ideal beauty, 
 
 r " waits upon onr steps, 
 
 Pitches her tents before us when we move, 
 An hourly neighbour." 
 
 The Greeks and Romans, had they known Com- 
 fort, would certainly have deified her : under 
 what type we pretend not to guess. 
 
 The barracks, hospitals, and other public 
 edifices here are very extensive. There are two 
 churches, two Methodist meeting-houses, one 
 Scotch and one Roman Catholic chapel. The 
 neighbouring country is good in soil, and di- 
 versified in feature, but its aspect at present is 
 dreary from long drought, which has exhausted 
 the springs, withered the herbage, and reduced 
 the cattle to living skeletons. We haA'e made 
 various calls on, or received visits from, naval, 
 military, and civil officers, to whom we had in- 
 troductions, as well as to the Wesleyaan Mis- 
 sionaries, who are here carrying on a blessed 
 work among all classes of colonists. 
 
 Aug. 31. Many persons have again honoured 
 us with visits at our quarters this day, all of 
 whom appeared highly gratified with the good 
 tidings which we bring from the far countries 
 wherein we have been so long sojourning. 
 Among these new friends we may mention the 
 Key. Mr. Hill, the Rev. Mr. Cowper, Mrs. 
 Wemyss, the Rev. T. Hassell, Mr. Haywood, 
 Mr. Erskiue, and Mr. Hutchinson, the Weslevuu 
 Missionaries. We received also a letter of wel- 
 come and salutation from the venerable apostle 
 of New South Wales, the Rev. Mr. Marsdcn, 
 inviting us to Parramatta as soon as we can 
 conveniently go thither. 
 
 One of the striking but repulsive peculiarities of 
 this colony, at all the stations, is the appearance 
 of numerous convicts in the field or in the 
 streets, going about their occupations in jackets 
 marked with the broad arrow or some other 
 badge of their servile condition. They are, for 
 the most part, miserable creatures, and more 
 basely branded with the looks of fallen beings 
 on their countenances than degraded by the 
 symbols on their garments. How great is the 
 change to us in one respect ! Among the South 
 Sea Islanders we had no fear for our persons or 
 our property by day or by night. Here we are 
 surrounded with thieves and violent men of the 
 worst character, and must look well to our- 
 selves and our locks for security. 
 
 Aug. 22. Being Lord's day, we attended 
 divine service at the new church, where we 
 heard a truly evangelical discourse by the Rev. 
 Mr. Hill. The congregation consisted of about 
 two hundred of the most respectable inhabitants, 
 and three hundred convicts. In the afternoon 
 Mr. Tyerman preached in one of the Method- 
 ist chapels before a crowded audience, who 
 eagerly listened to illustrations from our recent 
 experience and observations in the Pacific Is- 
 
186 
 
 RECEPTION OF LETTERS FROM ENGLAND. 
 
 lands, of the glorious and comprehensive truth 
 included in those words of the disciple whom 
 Jesus loved, " For this purpose the Son of God 
 was manifested, that he might destroy the 
 works of the devil."! John iii. 8. The Sab- 
 bath is observed here with more decorum than 
 might be expected. The shops are shut, and 
 great order is preserved in the streets, though 
 the population amounts to nearly ten thou- 
 sand. 
 
 Aug. 24. We went by coach to Parramatta, 
 a distance of fifteen miles along a turnpike-road, 
 as good as most in England, which runs prin- 
 cipally through forests of the darkest foliage 
 that we have ever observed, though here and 
 there a lovely glade lets in a little sunshine, and 
 calls up the wild flowering shrubs to pour forth 
 their blossoms to the breeze and the daylight. 
 We passed some fields of barley about a foot 
 high on government farms ; but neither the 
 corn nor the grass has its natural colour at pre- 
 sent from long want of rain. There are several 
 wooden bridges on the road, some over narrow 
 stn>;mis, others bestriding inlets of the bay or 
 harbour which reaches as far as Parramatta. 
 The navy of the world and all its merchant- 
 ships might ride within this noble harbour. 
 From a hill, about three miles from the latter- 
 mentioned town, we caught a glimpse of the 
 Blue Mountains, about forty miles' distance in a 
 westerly direction. They are correctly named, 
 being of a deep indigo hue, undulating upon 
 the grey horizon beneath the lighter firmament, 
 but are apparently of no extraordinary eleva- 
 tion. 
 
 From the next hill we had a bird's-eye view 
 of Parramatta, which is situated on a level 
 plain, cleared of trees to a considerable extent 
 but not very fertile ; while, far beyond, the 
 black forest still holds undisturbed po- 
 of the domain, which its ancestral trees have 
 bequeathed to it through unremembered aijes. 
 The government palace is seen on the west side 
 of the town, the factory for female coin-ids 
 stands on the east, the orphan school *on tin- 
 north, and the public granary on the south. 
 An arm of the sea stretches through the middle, 
 about the breadth of a third-rate Knglish river, 
 over which is a bridge. The government build- 
 ings arc very large, and there are a few good 
 brick houses ; but the dwellings generally are 
 poor, low structures or wretched hovels. The 
 streets are regularly laid out, crossing at rii*ht 
 angles. The town, or rather the rudiments of 
 the town, may be said to be extensive. The in- 
 habitants are estimated at throe thousand, though 
 there is space enough for thrice that numbe'r to 
 occupy. A commodious church, built of brick, 
 having two towers, surmounted by conical spires, 
 stands about the centre of this population. To 
 every house there is attached a garden, in which 
 British vegetables are cultivated. 
 
 Mr. Marsden's residence occupies an emi- 
 nence, commanding an ample view of town 
 and country, and possessing every other desir- 
 able local advantage. There our reverend 
 and excellent friend received us with Christian 
 affection, which we returned most heartily, 
 
 having long "esteemed him very highly in love 
 for his works' sake." He delivered to us de- 
 patches from the London Missionary Society, 
 and many letters from our connexions in Eng- 
 land, which had been accumulating in his 
 hands. This was indeed to us as " a day which 
 the Lord had made, and we rejoiced and were 
 glad in it." Those cordials for home-sickness 
 the epistles of dear, distant friends were 
 peculiarly seasonable and refreshing to our 
 spirits. How many past days and delights in 
 our own native land were remembered, and 
 lived over again ! how many perils, anxieties, 
 heart-sinkings, on sea and on shore, amidst 
 sailors, barbarians, and heathens just turned 
 .from their idols, were forgotten, while we drank 
 of these waters of consolation, almost at the 
 antipodes from the fountain ! Every stroke 
 of familiar hand-writing, every word, every 
 thought, every feeling, every article of intelli- 
 gence, however minute, and whether joyful or 
 mournful for something of the bitter 
 dcnth dashed even Mis cup of overflowing 
 ness were deeply and intensely interesting to 
 us in moments which summed up years of 
 events at home, and, as it were, brought us in 
 the journey of life to the points and the dates 
 at which our brethren and companions had 
 arrived when their epistles were penned. 
 
 In the afternoon of this day we had the 
 honour of being presented to Sir Thomas Bris- 
 bane, the governor of the colony, who r 
 us with great urbanity; and, when v 
 sented our letter of introduction from t! 
 surer and secretaries of the .Missionary So- 
 ciety, he assured us of his perfect willingness to 
 forward its laudable objects. His Excellency 
 made many intelligent inquiries respecting the 
 circumstances of the South Sea 
 progress of Christianity, and the fh.uu 
 savage to comparatively civilized society tin-re. 
 Our answers seemed to gratify him, and at 
 parting he engaged us to dine with him at an 
 early opportunity. For the present, t! 
 .Mr. Marsden considers u> as his gue^ 
 under a more hospitable roof we could not be 
 entertained. 
 
 Aug. 25. We have paid a visit to the factory 
 for the reception of female convicts, in which 
 they are usefully employed in dressing il;i\, 
 sorting wool, and spinning both, to be woven 
 into clothing materials by the men at their 
 quarters. This building is large and e 
 iugly well adapted for the convenien 
 comfort of the poor women. In the garden are 
 four stone structure-, each containing two 
 solitary cells for the confinement of refract on 
 inmates. There are at present a hundred anil 
 eight females lodged, and under strict but 
 humane inspection, here. As many more are 
 expected to be brought hither, in the course of 
 a few days. A respectable matron has tin- 
 superintendence of the establishment. This 
 house of refuge for the most forlorn of human 
 beings was erected at the suggestion of Mr. 
 Marsden, and has not been completed more 
 than two years. Formerly, when convicts ot' 
 their sex were landed from the transports, they 
 
MR. CUNNINGHAM, THE BOTANIST ORPHAN SCHOOL. 
 
 187 
 
 were left to provide for themselves ; the horrible 
 consequences of which, in such anomalous 
 society as exists here, need not be detailed. 
 When the inhabitants of Sydney and Parra- 
 matta, and the adjacent country, want domestic 
 servants, they apply here, and frequently find 
 themselves well supplied by those who have 
 not only been preserved from becoming worse 
 than they were when their native country cast 
 them forth, but who have been morally, if not 
 religiously, improved, under this merciful roof. 
 
 In the evening AVC had a long and gratifying 
 conversation with Mr. Cunningham, the king's 
 botanist, who is employed in collecting plants 
 throughout this unexplored, and, as it may be 
 called, this oruj'mal country. He has already 
 transmitted specimens of nearly four thousand 
 kinds to England. Mr. Cunningham lately 
 returned from the five islands (as the group is 
 designated) on this coast, where he discovered 
 a species of nettle-tree (urtica urens gigantea), 
 which grows to sixty feet in height. He showed 
 us a section of the stem of one specimen, 
 twenty inches in diameter. 
 
 Aug. 30. Having now settled ourselves in 
 private lodgings, we propose to spend our time 
 while in this strange land, so far as may be 
 consistent with other duties, in learning what 
 is known, or what may be gathered, concerning 
 the native population of New Holland. The 
 K'\. Mr. Cowper estimates them at three mil- 
 lions, which of course can be merely probable 
 conjecture on very imperfect data the interior 
 of the island, consisting of " wilds immeasurably 
 spread," bein<_r as undiscovered, and hitherto as 
 impenetrable, as the heart of Africa. Nor is 
 the coast itself (though circumnavigated by 
 Captain Flinders and others) yet laid down 
 with general correctness in the charts. All 
 attempts to civilize the savage occupants have 
 been fruitless; it must be confessed, however, 
 that those attempts have been few and feeble. 
 
 Sept. I. Mr. Marsdeii and Mr. Hassel having 
 kindly furnished us with carriages, we set out 
 on an excursion to survey the neighbourhood. 
 We proceeded through Parramatta along an ex- 
 cellent road which traverses the prodigious 
 forests that cover, like clouds, the uncleared 
 soil. Many farms have been, as it were, insu- 
 lated from "this boundless contiguity of shade," 
 which are not only enclosed at the outer limits, 
 but divided into fields, and well cultivated. In 
 many of these, amidst the corn and the grass, 
 stand the stocks of trees, about a yard high, 
 which have been left by the fellers to rot in the 
 ground, according to the practice of the back- 
 woodsmen in North America in breaking up 
 new land. The houses of the colonists who 
 follow agriculture, each in his little domain, 
 are generally neat and comfortable abodes : 
 some may even pretend to elegance. Thirty- 
 two miles from Parramatta (as indicated by the 
 stones) we turned from the main road to visit 
 some farms belonging to Mr. Marsden, on one 
 of which we observed a fine flock of Merino 
 sheep, and large herds of cattle grazing in rich 
 pastures. The others also were cleared of the 
 stumps, and in fine tillage. 
 
 In travelling through the native forests 
 (which, being nearly free from underwood, and 
 filled with magnificent trees standing suffici- 
 ently apart to allow their utmost latitude of 
 boughs to spread, resemble park-grounds in 
 England) we found many ants' nests. Some 
 of these were from two to three yards in dia- 
 meter, and two to three feet in height. These 
 Alpine cities as they may be called, in refer- 
 ence to their multitudinous and minute occu- 
 pants are inhabited by a species of black ant ; 
 and one of the mounds probably outnumbers, in 
 its insect population, the whole human race in 
 New Holland. Cockatoos, parrots, and paro- 
 quets, of various kinds, sizes, and plumage, were 
 squalling and scrambling among the branches ; 
 we also discovered here and there a magpie, 
 which reminded us of England ; and the laugh- 
 ing jackass, as it is strangely called, of which we 
 certainly had no home-recollections. Opos- 
 sums abound here. When they come out of 
 their retreats -in the evening in quest of food 
 they are hunted by dogs into trees, where they 
 are easily shot. At the place where we lodged 
 several were thus killed, which measured nearly 
 thirty inches in length each. The dogs also 
 worried a bandy-coot, on the ground ; an 
 animal of the opossum family, about the size of 
 a small cat, with a head and tail resembling 
 those of a rat, and a pouch under the belly for 
 the reception of its young. 
 
 Sept. 2. On our return to Parramatta various 
 enclosures were pointed out to us in the forest, 
 which are occupied by military gentlemen, who, 
 having obtained grants of land in consideration 
 of their services, are retired from the din 
 of arms to enjoy peace in these sequestered 
 regions. 
 
 Sept. 3. We visited the orphan school, an 
 admirable establishment, where upwards of a 
 hundred children of convicts, whom death has 
 deprived of their unhappy parents, are trained 
 up not to walk in the steps of their parents, 
 but in the way wherein they should go. After 
 having been kept here till fourteen or fifteen 
 years of age, they are usually taken into families 
 as servants or apprentices. From this esta- 
 blishment we proceeded to One Tree Hill, 
 whese there is a telegraph erected for the pur- 
 pose of communicating with one at Sydney, 
 when the governor is residing at Parramatta. 
 In the course of the day we called upon Mr. 
 Sheppard, who resides at Kissing Point, a de- 
 lightful spot. Mr. S. has an orchard and garden 
 upon his premises, in which peach, apple, pear, 
 and plum trees produce their respective fruits 
 in exuberance. The oranges here are the finest 
 .we have ever seen. He entertained us very 
 kindly. In the same neighbourhood we visited 
 Mr. Cooper, formerly a Missionary in the Tonga 
 Islands, and now master of a small school here. 
 It will be remembered, by those who are ac- 
 quainted with the early history of the Society, 
 that three of its Missionaries were murdered by 
 the natives, and the stations there abandoned, 
 nearly thirty years ago. 
 
 Sept. 4. In considering the circumstances of 
 the native population, and knowing what has 
 
188 CONVERSION OF NEW HOLLANDERS CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES. 
 
 been done in the islands of the South Seas by 
 preaching the gospel to them, in their own 
 tongue, through all its easy and obvious diver- 
 sities of dialect, we are perfectly convinced that 
 the same means may be employed for the con- 
 version of the New Hollanders. On the face 
 of the matter, it must be more rational for a few 
 Missionaries to learn their language, and teach 
 them knowledge of every kind in it, than to ex- 
 pect that, in mere commonplace intercourse 
 with Englishmen, three millions of barbarians, 
 of the lowest order of intelligence, scattered 
 over a wilderness nearly as large as Europe, 
 should learn our language, and listen to hidden 
 mysteries in it, without a motive to do so that 
 can be supposed for a moment to weigh with 
 beings in the grossest ignorance, and of habits 
 the most indolent. It is true that some of the 
 vagabonds from the forest, who haunt these 
 settlements, and for the sake of the rinsings of 
 a rum-cask, or the offal of the shambles, do the 
 basest drudgery, pick up a few phrases of 
 English, sufficient to communicate backward 
 arid forward with their employers ; but the 
 domestic animals in our own country, if they 
 could communicate by any signs which their 
 organs can utter what they actually do under- 
 stand of the words continually addressed to 
 them, of command, menace, or endearment, 
 would be quite as accomplished linguists as 
 these poor creatures of our own species are in 
 our vernacular tongue. Much more, undoubt- 
 edly, might be taught them ; but, if we wait till 
 they can hear and receive the words of eternal 
 lifc-*in any other audible sound than their own, 
 twenty generations may pass over this land of 
 darkness and the shadow of death, before the 
 true light shine upon it: or, which is morn 
 probable, f/n- M&0I0 abbrii/inal stock may be 
 I'.rtirminated (like the American Indians) by 
 the pro;/ rex* of colonizatitm. There are, in- 
 deed, two schools for the instruction of natives 
 liberally, in point of allowance (20/. for each 
 child), supported by government; the one is 
 kept by the Rev. Mr. CutWlightj a clergyman 
 of the established church, the other l>\ Mr. 
 Walker, a Methodist Missionary, at liiack-town. 
 The former teaches seven boys the latter seven 
 girls; but what are these out of three millions ! 
 One Missionary, learning the language of one 
 tribe, might be able to preach the simple truths 
 of salvation to hundreds and thousands, with 
 whom he might come in contact, on his journeys 
 of mercy ; and the acquisition of one of the 
 dialects would enable him, or his followers, to 
 master all the rest, as intercourse should be 
 opened, from time to time, with the remoter 
 hordes in the interior, or along the coast. 
 
 Sept. 13. At Sydney, whither we returned on 
 the 4th inst., we have this day seen a party of 
 the natives, and surely there never trod on the 
 face of this earth more abject creatures. Both 
 men and women were in a state of absolute and 
 shameless nudity, and several of them were 
 stupidly intoxicated. One woman had an in- 
 fant at her back, swung in a bag of kangaroo- 
 ,-kin. The\ were all of low stature, with 
 meagre limbs ; their hair black, but not curly ; 
 
 in their complexions as dark almost as Guinea 
 Negroes, and their persons loathsome with filth. 
 I)oth no man care for their souls 1 " Hare they 
 souls'!" it may be superciliously asked. We 
 answer, in words often used with impious 
 levity, " The Lord knows that they have." 
 
 Sept. 16. We went to Parramatta, M : . 
 den having invited several of the principal 
 persons of the colony to meet us at his house to 
 dinner. There were present the governor, Sir 
 Thomas Brisbane, Judge Forbes, Mr. Harness, 
 the sheriff, Mr. Stephen, the solicitor-general, 
 Mr. Balcombe, the treasurer, Dr. M'Cleod, a 
 physician, the Rev. Mr. Cartwright, and several 
 others ; who all behaved towards us with the 
 most gratifying condescension and kind; 
 
 Sept. 18. From a gentleman who has resided 
 three years at the Coal-rive-- (where there are 
 inany natives) we have received the following 
 information concerning their habits and cus- 
 toms. When one dies a natural death, the 
 col |i-e, shrouded in pieces of bark, is laid on the 
 -round, and four small fires are lighted at the 
 head and feet and on either side; a ::: 
 scratched up in the ground and another fire- 
 lighted in the hole, which is allowed to burn 
 out ; the body of the deceased is then laid upon 
 the ashes, with any little property which be- 
 longed to him his club, his spear, his clothes 
 and the earth is heaped over all. But if the 
 person fell in war, or his blood was shed by 
 murder or chance-medley, his body is not 
 buried but burnt to dust. Like all sava- 
 New Hollanders use their women cruelh . 
 iM their wives by violence, seizing them by 
 storm or springing upon them from ambush 
 when, if the unfortunate female makes any re- 
 sistance, her uncourteous suitor knocks her 
 down \\i(h his waddy (a tremendous ciuL r el) 
 and carries her off on his shoulders in a if 
 insensibility, with the blood streaming from the 
 love-tokens which he has inflicted on he:', 
 afterwards she is his slave ; at meals she and 
 her daughters sit behind her husband and her 
 sons, picking the bones or gorging on the refuse 
 of the garbage with which the lordly - 
 pease their ulnttony, and which are occasionally 
 thrown to them, asdoirsare fed in a poor man's 
 family in England. Their cross, deformed, and 
 diseased children are often killed out of the wa\ , 
 but they are very fond of those whom the} rear. 
 
 From the quick and eager exercise of their 
 e\es ia peeking for their prey, they are ex- 
 ceedingly keen-sighted, and discover birds in 
 the trees, or venomous reptiles in the grass, 
 where Europeans see nothing. Of serpents 
 they are much afraid, and flee from them as 
 from death. They are proportionately skilful 
 in tracking the kangaroo, the emu, or any other 
 animal over the grass, which might seem, to our 
 eyes, as undisturbed as though Virgil's Camilla 
 herself had passed over it, without bending a 
 blade or shaking the dust from the blossom of a 
 flower. They follow the trail of their country- 
 men with equal sagacity and confidence for 
 leagues together, through woods and over wilds 
 apparently as printless as the air ; and when 
 once they have seen the footmark of a Euro- 
 
NATIVE TRADITIONS BAD NEWS FROM NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 189 
 
 pean they never forget it, but can instantly re- 
 cognise the faintest vestige of the same. 
 
 They are inveterately idle and unwilling to 
 work or even to stir without a motive like com- 
 pulsion. A colonist, not far from hence, had 
 quitted a cottage to dwell in a more commo- 
 dious house which he had prepared for himself 
 and his family. A few of the savages took pos- 
 session of this during the rainy season, as a 
 place of most luxurious shelter. But, rather 
 than go a few steps from the door to collect lire- 
 wood, they pulled the house to pieces, as they 
 had occasion, till, from the thatch on the roof 
 to the last stake in the wall, they had burnt the 
 whole tenement, and left themselves bare to the 
 inclemency of the elements, which they had 
 sought to avoid. They were then fain to flee 
 into the bush and cover themselves with shreds 
 and patches of bark. 
 
 On some occasions they perform certain 
 ceremonies which seem to be of an idolatrous 
 nature. A European had an opportunity of 
 A\itnc-;sing the following. A whole tribe re- 
 tired into an unfrequented place in the forest, 
 where there was some open ground. Here 
 they cut a path through the grass, as though it 
 had been finely mown, nearly two hundred 
 yards long, following a line perfectly straight. 
 At the further end of this, in an area, were dis- 
 played (in like manner cut amidst the thick 
 grass) iigures, which, though rude in shape, 
 were easily recognised, to be of the kangaroo, 
 emu, opossum, and every other animal which 
 they an- accustomed to kill for food. Beyond 
 this hieroglyphic table (if such it may be called) 
 the path was continued forward to the foot of a 
 large tree, in the stem of which notches were 
 made like those by which they ascend to gather 
 fruit. The evil spirit, they said, climbed up 
 and down that tree. This labour being accom- 
 pli >hed, the women were assembled under the 
 I'oimhs, but were not permitted to look up 
 among them on pain of death. A man who re- 
 presented the devil then came down from the 
 top of the tree by the notches and walked off; 
 whereupon the females retired, and the boys 
 went through the same ceremony, but not till 
 each had one of his front teeth knocked out. 
 The girls did the same, but though on such oc- 
 casion-; they are not condemned to lose a tooth, 
 they are more barbarously mutilated by having 
 the first joint of the fore-finger of the left hand 
 chopped off at a certain age. The meaning 
 nf these rites has not been well made out; 
 but little doubt, however, need be entertained 
 that they are, by some virtue or another at- 
 tached to them, intended to secure good hunt- 
 ing, fowling, and fishing that is, abundance of 
 their usual food. AVhen they go to war they 
 paint their bodies and faces most hideously with 
 white lines on the black skin, to represent men 
 and animals whether for beauty or terror we 
 need not inquire. 
 
 They are said to have a tradition of the de- 
 luge, when the waters overtopped the BJue 
 Mountains, and two men only escaped the de- 
 vastation, in a kobou noe, or large ship. They en- 
 tertain some crude notions of a good spirit as well 
 
 as an evil ; but the former they disregard, and 
 pay all their homage of fear a fear which hath 
 torment to the latter. They are ridiculously 
 shy of being out, or alone, in the night. In 
 company with a European they will venture, 
 taking always a light with them. Three natives 
 once conspired against a white man, whom 
 they murdered. Being told by another white 
 man that the spirit of the deceased would haunt 
 them in the night till it had killed them, they 
 were so affected that the hours of darkness 
 were hours of the most distressing consterna- 
 tion to them, and within a short time all three 
 pined away and died. Some trace of the doc- 
 trine of transmigration has been discovered 
 among them. They imagine that the white 
 men are their ancestors come to life in new 
 bodies ; and sometimes, when they see one of 
 these with the scar of a wound on the face, they 
 will say he is such or such a person, who had 
 been murdered at some particular place in 
 memory or tradition. All painful disorders 
 they attribute to possession by a foul fiend. 
 A man who had a distracting pain in his head 
 was found lying on the ground, and his wife 
 standing upon the afflicted part with both her 
 feet, to drive out the devil-devil the redupli- 
 cation of the term signifying the great devil. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 Visit to 1'arramatta Sir Thomas Brisbane Barbarous 
 Remark of a Settler respecting the Aborigines Method- 
 ist Missionary Mooting Note from Major Ovens 
 Effect of Rain on Vegetation Large Serpents Opos- 
 sum Tribe Native Dogs Kangaroos Pelicans, 
 Cranes, Black Swans, &c- Notices of the Aborigines 
 A Missionary Station among them determined upon 
 Mode of punishing a Murderer by the Natives In- 
 terview with Wesleyan Missionarie's Further notice's 
 of the Aborigines Sunday Schools at Parraniatla 
 Maeqnarrie Anniversary Missionary Stations ex- 
 amined Characteristic Traits of the Natives Heed's 
 Mistake, a Colonial Station A Receiver of Stolen 
 Goods Two Classes of Colonists The Rev. Mr. Shep- 
 pard, from New /calami Arrival of Captain Kent 
 New Zealand Flax Curious Superstitions and Prac- 
 tices of New Hollanders Arrival of the Brutus from 
 the Society Isles Narrow Escape of some of that 
 Ship's Company at the Friendly Islands Anecdote of 
 horrible Cruelty Execution of Murderers, c. Mis- 
 sion to the Aborigines Embarkation for Batavia. 
 
 1824. SEPT. 23. This day we went to Parra- 
 matta, by invitation of the governor, who en- 
 tertained us sumptuously, in company with the 
 chief officers of the colony. We record the 
 hospitality of Sir Thomas Brisbane, on this oc- 
 casion, with the more pleasure and gratitude, 
 because it was shown to us, not for our own 
 sakes, as mere strangers, but in honour of that 
 great Christian Society, for sending the gospel 
 to the ends of the earth, of which we were the 
 humble representatives. 
 
 Intelligence has just been received of the ar- 
 rival of a small vessel from New Zealand, where 
 she had lost the master and six of her crew at 
 Cook's Straits. They had been cut off by the 
 cannibals ; for what provocation, or whether for 
 any, we have not learnt. 
 
 The attorney-general, to whom we have been 
 indebted for many civilities, invited us to ac- 
 company him across the harbour, to a part of 
 
190 
 
 EFFECT OF RAIN ON VEGETATION. 
 
 the coast whither many of the aborigines are ac- 
 customed to resort. Though we visited several 
 places, and found in some spots recent marks 
 where they had been such as low semicircular 
 screens from the wind, consisting of branches 
 laid horizontally, or bent downward, from the 
 neighbouring bushes, under which they had 
 rested we were disappointed in the hope of 
 seeing any of themselves. They are so vagrant 
 and superstitious a race that they seldom sleep 
 two successive nights on the same ground, 
 lest the evil spirit should find them out, and do 
 them they know not what mischief. We take 
 every opportunity to urge upon persons of 
 wealth and iiiflueu.ce here the necessity of at- 
 tempting to civilize these miserable beings by 
 the only prompt and infallible means which 
 modern experience, as well as scripture author- 
 ity, prove to be so namely, by Christian 
 teaching and Christian living. Other expe- 
 dients, we find, have been tried, but tried in 
 vain, and many people who ought to know 
 better are incurably convinced that the New 
 Hollanders are incurably stupid ; in short, that 
 they are as untractable as the kangaroos and 
 opossums that hold divided possession with 
 them of the forests and deserts of this strange 
 country. We are assured that one settler, 
 who is a magistrate, which, of course, -i\ < 
 him importance, has been heard publicly 
 to declare that, in his opinion, the best use 
 which could be made ot ' the black fellows " 
 would be to shoot them all, and manure the 
 ground with their carcases. Whether this was 
 spoken in savage earnest, or (as we are willing 
 to believe) in thoughtless jest, it indicates that 
 those of whom it could be said are deplorably 
 depreciated in the estimation of mereenan ad- 
 ventures, whatever be the secret feeling of 
 more respectable colonists in their fa\our. 
 
 Oct. 4. In the evening our friends il. 
 leyans, held their Anniversary Missionary Meet- 
 ing in one of their chapels here. By invitation 
 Mr. 15ennet occupied the chair. Several pious 
 and allccting addresses were delivered b\ the 
 ministers and gentlemen present; especially a 
 very powerful one by Mr. Stephen, the solicitor- 
 general, iu which he most satisfactorily defended 
 the Methodist preachers and their converts in 
 the West Indies from the cruel calumnies of 
 slave-holders and slave-drivers there; he himself 
 having formerly held oiliee in one of the islands, 
 where he had witnessed the faithful and blessed 
 labours of those servants of God among the 
 negroes. 
 
 Oct. (5. We were rejoiced by the receipt of an 
 official note from Major Ovens, private secre- 
 tary to Sir Thomas Brisbane, of which the follow- 
 ing is a copy : 
 
 "Government House, Oct. 6, 1824. 
 " GENTLEMEN, 
 
 " His Excellency, having reason to believe 
 that, since your arrival in this colony, you have 
 ir'm-n some attention to the state of the abori- 
 gines, has directed me to request that you will 
 l)t- pleased to favour him with the advantage of 
 any opinion which you may have formed as to 
 
 the manner in which they should be treated, 
 with the hope of improving their condition. 
 " 1 have the honour to be, &c. 
 
 " J. OVENS, Private Secretary. 
 
 " To the Rev. Daniel Tyerman, and 
 George Bennet, Esq." 
 
 We were more gratified than surprised by this 
 communication, from the previous knowledge 
 of his Excellency's disposition, and shall take 
 the earliest opportunity of complying with his 
 request, in the assurance that he will 1> 
 any M issionary plan which we may feel just i tied 
 in attempting to carry into effect for the evan- 
 gelization of the aborigines. 
 
 Oct. 9. We went down the harbour to a station 
 about two miles from hence, where Mr-, 
 quarrie a few years ago built sundry c< 
 to induce natives to settle with their families in 
 them. There yet remain traces of garden and 
 orchard grounds, overrun with weeds and bn-hes, 
 but not the wreck of a dwelling. The barba- 
 rians, youni: as well as old, appear to be irre- 
 claimable from their vagabond habits by the or- 
 dinary means of bettering their einmn- 
 The girls under the care of Mr. Walk 
 mentioned before) have lately all made their 
 i- scape from his house and run into tin- 
 where they prefer Ining upon vermin and worm-, 
 opossums or wild cats, when they can catch tin m, 
 to the restraint of a comfortable home with 
 plenty of wholesome provisions. 
 
 (hi. 13. This colony has lately been visited 
 with such abundance of refreshing sh 
 that the whole face of nature has been <. 
 from the semblance of an arid wa-: 
 and fertile expanse of land, at' once unlocked 
 from drought, and throwing out its ti 
 of vegetation as though the earth delighted in 
 being set at liberty, and were running in- 
 nocently riot with the bounty of 1 
 
 .- told this morning that more rain ha- 
 fallen here within the last three da\s than h :i- 
 sometimes come down in the course of three 
 years ; so ver\ uncertain and unequal is the 
 weather in this quarter of the- world. 
 
 Persons with whom we have conversed inform 
 us that there are serpents here which sometimes 
 grow to the length of thirteen feet. Their bite 
 is \er\ \enomous; a horse has been known 
 to fall down dead almost instantly after lieinir 
 wounded by one, and a dog will expire within 
 two minutes. They are said never to attack un- 
 less trodden upon, or otherwise irritated, hastily 
 making their retreat into their coverts at the 
 approach of man or the larger animals. Many 
 accidents, however, happen from those perilous 
 reptiles during the summer, when they are more 
 abroad, and frequently basking in the sun. The 
 bird called the laughing-jackass i- a mo-t formi- 
 dable enemy to the various kiini 
 especially the young and the smaller ones, which 
 he seizes with his powerful bill, as with a pair 
 of pincers, and dashes them to death against tin- 
 trees or stones. Nature has made an admirable 
 provision for the protection of almost all the 
 quadrupeds here against the insidious attacks 
 of serpents lurking in the thick grass, by furnish- 
 
NATIVE DOG MISSIONARY STATION AMONG THE ABORIGINES. 191 
 
 ing them with the double belly, as it is called, 
 or the pouch under the abdomen, into which 
 their young ones creep at the least alarm of dan- 
 ger. The females of the kangaroo, opossum, 
 bandycoot, wombat, and even the wild cat, are 
 all thus equipped for the accommodation of their 
 progeny while it is dependent upon their instinc- 
 tive tenderness. The teats are within this re- 
 ceptacle, which equally serves for a nest or a 
 travelling-bag, when the dam is reposing or mi- 
 grating in search of food. 
 
 The native dog resembles a mongrel between 
 the fox and the wolf, partaking of the evil qualities 
 of both, and wanting the real or fabled virtues 
 of either, as well as the proverbial good qualities 
 of his own species. This pernicious animal 
 makes such havoc among the sheep biting and 
 killing as many in a flock as he can seize (though 
 one is more than a meal for the capacity of his 
 gorge, if not for his voraciousness) that a re- 
 ward is paid for every head of the species that is 
 brought to the proper officer. 
 
 The kangaroo is hunted by large and powerful 
 dogs of the greyhound species. When pursued, 
 the kangaroo makes the most surprising leaps, 
 by means of its long hind legs, clearing bushes 
 and even trees of considerable height. At a 
 single spring they will often reach six-and-thirty 
 feet : and if their course be down-hill, no dog 
 can overtake them. On other ground they are 
 generally caught after running and bounding 
 from two to three thousand yards ; though, in 
 some rare instances, they have been known to 
 k-ad the chace for twenty miles. When caught, 
 they fight with great fury, seizing the dogs be- 
 tween their short fore-legs, and hugging them 
 to death, or ripping up their bellies by dint of 
 the sharp and long claws with which their hind- 
 art- armed. It is said that they never use 
 their teeth in combat. Their flesh is deemed 
 palatable food, and much resembles beef, except 
 that no fat is found on it. In its natural habits 
 the kangaroo is an inoffensive creature; but 
 when hemmed in, and driven to desperation, it 
 will turn upon man himself, and grapple with 
 him as it does with the dogs, till, unless speedily 
 rescued, it will go hard with him to escape alive 
 from the hostile embrace. Pelicans, cranes, 
 and black swans, are seen on the waters here ; 
 the formerly especially arc very numerous. 
 Then- is also a native hawk, exceedingly fierce, 
 and large enough to deserve the royal name of 
 eagle, though its legitimacy may be questioned. 
 
 Oct. 15. We met with an Englishman who 
 was wrecked near Morcton Bay, in lat. 27 5' 
 15'' S., and had lived two years among the black 
 natives in that neighbourhood. These, he says, 
 are more numerous, and of a superior order to 
 the wretched vagrants here, who are degraded be- 
 low their original wretchedness by their unhappy 
 intercourse with Europeans. He tells us that 
 those among whom he sojourned are compara- 
 tively stout and well proportioned in their per- 
 sons ; they wear little or no clothing, and lodge 
 in huts made of the bark of trees. They sub- 
 sist principally on fish, which they catch in the 
 river (now called Brisbane) and the bay afore- 
 named. They also eat a root found abundantly 
 
 in the marsh-land. In their wars, which are 
 merely family quarrels, the seldom kill each other, 
 throwing clubs and spears reciprocally, which 
 they are as quick in warding with their shields 
 as they are true in taking aim. When this per- 
 son came away, an old man presented him with a 
 fishing-net, saying, " You will want this to pro- 
 vide food for yourself where you are going." 
 And just as the boat was pushing off from the 
 shore, the same kindly-considerate old man 
 plunged into the water after it, and gave him a 
 basket, saying, " Take this also, and when you 
 have caught fish in your net, you can put them 
 into this basket, to carry them home to your 
 hut." 
 
 Oct. 19. At a special interview with the go- 
 vernor, this day, on the subject which presses 
 so heavily upon our minds, his Excellency was 
 officially informed that, after much deliberation, 
 we were disposed to recommend Mr. Threlkeld 
 (who had accompanied us from the South 
 Islands, intending to return to England from 
 hence) to remain here as a Missionary to the 
 aborigines ; to which he also had freely con- 
 sented. We were therefore prepared to say that 
 this arrangement should be made, and that Mr. 
 Threlkeld should be stationed at the new colony, 
 to be forthwith established upon the river Bris- 
 bane, at Moreton Bay, which had been lately 
 explored for more than a hundred miles into the 
 interior, provided government would make a 
 suitable grant of land for a Missionary settle- 
 ment. Mr. Threlkeld, of course, was to receive 
 his salary from the Society at home, and to be 
 considered, in all respects, as one of their regular 
 agents in the work of evangelizing the heathen. 
 The governor expressed great satisfaction at 
 this intelligence, and readily promised every 
 aid, in accordance with his duty, in promoting 
 the benevolent object thus proposed. It was 
 agreed in the sequel that a memorial should be 
 presented to his Excellency, stating the plan and 
 the means of effecting it, which should receive 
 the earliest and most liberal attention on his part. 
 
 Oct. 21. A singular mode { of punishment 
 among the natives was carried into execution 
 against a fellow who had murdered one of his 
 countrymen. Several tribes met in an open 
 field near Sydney. The criminal stood alone 
 in the midst, naked, having a wooden shield in 
 one hand, and in the other a stout staff. On 
 either side of him' at a little distance stood a 
 friend, and a select number of impartial indivi- 
 duals were stationed near, to see that fair play 
 was shown to him and by him. His sentence 
 Avas, that he should be speared; and this was the 
 manner of it : Two of the relatives of the 
 murdered man threw each a spear at the mur- 
 derer, with great accuracy of aim, but he readily 
 turned these aside with his shield. Two others 
 almost instantly stepped into their places, and 
 threw at him with similar ill success; the destined 
 victim not only foiling the strokes, but throwing 
 the missiles back to his adversaries, though not 
 with an intention of wounding them. Two by 
 two thus successively assailed him with the same 
 kind of weapons, till a hundred and fifty spears 
 had been hurled at him in vain ; some of which 
 
192 
 
 INTERVIEW WITH WESLEYAN MISSIONARIES. 
 
 missed altogether, a few were broken, but most 
 of them he warded off from his body with the 
 the shield, exhibiting wonderful skill and dex- 
 terity in that passive kind of defence. He was 
 then released from this "wager of battel," to 
 use an old English term for an old English mode 
 of deciding the guilt or innocence of persons 
 charged with the same offence. The whole 
 ceremonial was conducted with the most rigid 
 justice and publicity ; nor was any evil passion 
 or disposition to commit further outrage mani- 
 fested against the defendant, or by his backers 
 on his part against his antagonists. 
 
 Oct. 23. AVe called on our good friends the 
 Wesleyan Missionaries, Mr. Leigh and Mr. 
 Krskine, to explain our views in regard to com- 
 mencing evangelical labours at Moreton 15ay. 
 We told them, distinctly, that we did not wish 
 in any Avay to interfere with their useful ;md 
 commendable operations for the benefit either 
 of natives or colonists, and that, if they were in- 
 clined to occupy the station which we contem- 
 plated for Mr. Threlkelcl, we would at once 
 yield the preference to them. They assured us 
 that they had no means or agent to employ there, 
 and strenuously advised that Mr. Threlkek! 
 should enter upon that field, \vhich seemed t> 
 l)e providentially opened to our Society. There 
 appeared a cordial assent on their part to our 
 plan, and this much encouraged us to persevere 
 in it. 
 
 Dec. 14. In the course of the two preceding 
 months we have made sundry excursions in the 
 neighbourhood, particularly to Emu plains, and 
 obtained whatever information we could concern- 
 ing the aborigines, and the best human, as well 
 as spiritual, meaus of doing them good. It is 
 true that we meet with great discouragement 
 and many difficulties; but we comfort and 
 strengthen ourselves by asking that scriptural 
 question which involves in itself the most satis- 
 faetory answer, " Is there anything too hard for 
 the Lord?" All his works of creation, all his 
 ways of providence, all his dealings of grace, 
 say, \o. In his name, therefore, leaving the 
 event wholly to Him, what our hand tindeth t<> 
 do, in this object of our heart's desire, and 
 prayer, we will do with our might. 
 
 Towards Christmas the natives come in great 
 numbers to Sydney and Parramatta, from their 
 haunts, to obtain the baneful boon, which had 
 far better be withheld, of ardent spirits, or the 
 means of purchasing the pernicious beverage 
 from the ill-bestowed hospitality of the colonists. 
 .Many of these intoxicated and infuriated sa- 
 vages, therefore, are seen daily in the streets, 
 naked and filthy, shouting and reeling, quar- 
 relling and fighting, from the effects of unac- 
 customed good cheer as they deem bad rum, 
 and any offal meat that falls in their way. 
 (loin-; down to Botany Bay a few days since, 
 we found three of these unfortunate crea- 
 tures, sober and hungry enough, boiling some 
 mai/e in an iron pot. This mess, without 
 any savoury addition, they greedily devoured. 
 The pot seemed all their worldly property, for 
 they had not a rag of clothing about their per- 
 sons, ami we found that they were conscious of a 
 
 poverty that we did not suspect. Being all three 
 of the rougher sex, we asked them where their 
 jins (wives) were, when they answered, with 
 great simplicity, " We are poor men ; we have 
 no jins." Wives, it seems then, are treasures 
 among the New Hollanders ; but they certainly 
 do not prize them as other people, barbarian as 
 well as civilized, do their treasures ; jins miu'lit 
 be the mire under their feet, they spurn and 
 despise them so habitually. One evening we 
 had an opportunity of witnessing the manner 
 of fishing used by the natives here. Ha>imr 
 prepared long torches of the dried fibres of 
 triturated bark, which they bound together with 
 a running plant, gathered from the beach, when 
 it was sufficiently dark the two partners equipped 
 themselves for the venture, and while one 
 watched upon a rock the other remained in 
 their boat, each having a lighted flambeau in 
 one hand and a spear with four prongs in the 
 other. The fish, attracted by the blaze, rushed 
 into the snare, and were struck, with almost 
 infallible dexterity, by the man on the water, 
 or his comrade on the shore. They catch lish 
 (which, indeed, i.s a main part of their pr. > 
 with nets also, but we have not seen this prac- 
 tised. 
 
 Dec. 20. We had the privilege to attend the 
 annual examination of the Sunda\ 
 Pan-an, atta, under the care of the Ucv. Mr. 
 Maraden. A hundred and ten children, of both 
 
 peated catechism*, answered qn 
 and recited chapters of the Bible, hymns, and 
 other compositions, iu the most satisfactory 
 manner. It was delightful to see so many 
 scions of such wild stocks the offspring of con- 
 victs under irenuine religions instruction, and 
 willingly hearkening to it. The children and 
 youth at this town are generally well }> 
 and promise to form a better generation than 
 that from which they have sprung, notwith- 
 standing the influence of evil example continu- 
 ally before their eyes. Many of them are 
 ashamed of their parents, and weep over their 
 flagrant misconduct. There is only one i/oim// 
 man in 1'arramatta who is known as an habi- 
 tual drunkard. This school was begun by Mr. 
 Marnier, in lsl4. Many of those who were 
 his pupils are now grown up and married. 
 
 Dec. 28. This being the anniversary of the 
 landing of Governor Macquarrie, the event has 
 been commemorated as usual b\ 
 to the natives. Families from all the tribes, 
 within the utmost limits to which colonization 
 has found way, throng to Parramatta at this 
 time. ' In the morning these dark-\ 
 strangers in their own land (for such ti. 
 here) assembled in the market-place, under 
 their respective chiefs ; old and young, amount- 
 ing to four hundred. This, we are told, is the 
 greatest number that lias ever been known to 
 come together on a like occasion a circum- 
 stance which proves how thinly peopled these 
 immeasurable regions are, and at the same time 
 shows that, little actual wrong has been done 
 them by the unpurchased and even the ui 
 occupation of such tracts of their native wilder- 
 nesses as are now held by European settlers. 
 
NEW HOLLAND FEASTING NATIVE CUSTOMS. 
 
 193 
 
 The wretched beings for, though it was a 
 festival-day to them, their degraded condition 
 made our hearts ache to look upon them sat 
 on the ground in companies, according to their 
 clans ; every man having his wife behind, and 
 his children around him. Most of them were 
 partially clothed, some having skins of kan- 
 garoos or opossums, and some rags of European 
 dresses, sufficient to hide their nakedness. 
 Their personal appearance was exceedingly 
 mean and meagre, for the most part ; though a 
 few of either sex were less disagreeable. Several 
 of the men were shaved ; but the greater num- 
 ber wore their beards ; and all had long, but 
 not woolly, black hair. Many had beautified 
 their faces with i-ed-ochrc, others with white 
 clay, in streaks and circles about the eyes. The 
 principal ornaments worn by the men were 
 necklaces, composed of small joints of a reed 
 strung together. The dangling locks of the 
 women were tagged all round the head with 
 kangaroos' teeth ; they had also necklaces of 
 the same. Some of the more ostentatious of 
 the gentle sex were distinguished by a piece 
 of reed, three or four inches long, thrust 
 through the gristle of the nose, across the face. 
 
 A notorious character, known by the name 
 of Saturday, appeared among the rest, at the 
 head of his tribe, who had long been at war 
 with the settlers in the country, of whom he 
 confessed, or rather boasted, that he] had killed 
 fifteen with his own hand. On some under- 
 stood assurance of good treatment, he had 
 ceased from his acts of violence, and arrived to- 
 day to make his submission ; for which pur- 
 pose, and that it might be done with due so- 
 li'innity, he rode into town upon a horse, bear- 
 ing an olive branch in his hand. On present- 
 ing himself to the governor he was graciously 
 received and forgiven, 011 condition that he 
 would never again offend in like manner. This, 
 as a matter of course, he promised, and the 
 treaty of peace thus concluded is likely to last 
 as long, and be kept as faithfully, as more mag- 
 nificent things of the kind are, between "high 
 contracting parties," 011 the other side of the 
 globe. During the late hostilities, whatever 
 havoc may have been made among the settlers, 
 the latter are said to have cut off about a hun- 
 dred of the aborigines. 
 
 At noon the whole company were served 
 with roast beef, plum-pudding, bread, soup, 
 and other substantial fare, of which they ate as 
 much as they could on the spot, and stowed 
 away as much more in their bags. The provi- 
 sions were carried about on large trays,* and the 
 feast was conducted with as much decorum as 
 could be expected. About half a pint of grog 
 was afterwards distributed to eacli adult person. 
 Towards evening they all dispersed into differ- 
 ent parts of the forest to lodge according to 
 their tribes. 
 
 Dec. 31. We spent a delightful evening in 
 Christian fellowship and prayer at the Rev. Mr. 
 Marsden's, sitting up with the young people till 
 past twelve o'clock, to welcome in the new 
 year. 
 
 1825. Jan. 6. One of the deputy-surveyors 
 
 here informs us that the natives are, compara- 
 tively, numerous in the vicinity of the Five Is- 
 lands, and, being less debauched by intercourse 
 with the worst class of white men than in some 
 other parts of the colony, they have preserved 
 more of their primitive character and manners. 
 They come from the interior to the above- 
 mentioned quarter of the coast to obtain fish, 
 oystns, water-fowl, grubs, &c. He speaks on 
 the whole favourably of them, except in respect 
 of the hard usage of their wives, whom they 
 compel to fish for them, and, when they are un- 
 successful, cruelly beat them. They have not 
 many children ; but there is no reason to sus- 
 pect that they destroy any of them, either from 
 indolence or hard-heartedness ; indeed, they 
 appear fond of their offspring with the instinc- 
 tive' attachment of all animals to their young, 
 whether human or brute, in a wild state. They 
 bury their dead in the ground, marking the 
 place (and, probably, their name and the time 
 of their decease) by certain hieroglyphics on 
 the bark of neighbouring trees ; besides which, 
 in honour of distinguished persons, they cut 
 the rude figure of a man, with his legs stretched 
 out, on each side of the grave. They have a 
 notion of the rights of real property, the lands 
 which particular families occupy being marked 
 out and bequeathed from the father to his chil- 
 dren. Like all savages, whose subsistence is 
 precarious, they can go long without food, fre- 
 quently fasting for several days together ; but, 
 when they have abundance, gorging enormorsly. 
 They rarely think of the future, so as to pro- 
 vide for its necessities ; yet in one instance 
 they show singular sagacity even of this kind. 
 They get the limb of a large tree, the thickness 
 of a man's thigh, and plant it in the water. 
 Presently a certain kind of grub bores holes 
 into this stake, where it thrives and multiplies 
 so rapidly that, in no long time, the wood be- 
 comes like a honey-comb, full of cells, contain- 
 ing these delicacies. The natives then take it 
 out of the water, cleave it in pieces, and riot on 
 its animal contents. They throw the spear 
 with amazing precision and force, often killing 
 wild-ducks, herons, and other birds on the 
 wing. 
 
 v They generally broil their fish or flesh slightly, 
 by laying it upon the fire before they eat it, and 
 (which is very remarkable) reject any food that 
 is tainted, however little. Their smell in de- 
 tecting this is exquisitely acute. The same 
 may be said of their sight and hearing, from 
 the nicety and intenseness with which they 
 have occasion to exercise those senses. A short 
 time since some property had been stolen from 
 a house in the country : certain natives were 
 employed to discover the thieves, when, though 
 the latter had taken a very circuitous range of 
 the forest to secure their escape, the pursuers 
 followed the gang of bush-rangers (for such 
 they proved) to the very place where they had 
 deposited their booty, though the white consta- 
 bles who joined in the chase could not perceive 
 the trace of footsteps or passage on the grass or 
 through the underwood. When they discover 
 a kangaroo feeding, one, expert at the practice, 
 
 o 
 
194 
 
 A RECEIVER OF STOLEN GOODS NEW XKALAM) FLAX. 
 
 steals upon it by slow marches. The animal 
 generally sits upon its haunches, but, when it 
 feeds, stoops down with the head and short 
 fore-legs to crop the grass. While in that posi- 
 tion, the black man creeps gently towards the 
 spot, and the moment the kangaroo raises its 
 eye from the ground, he stands stock still. 
 Appearing, probably, to the creature like a 
 dark-coloured stump of a tree, of which there 
 are many in the woods, it continues to feed 
 without fear he always moving a few steps 
 while it is looking down, and becoming motion- 
 less as soon as it looks up. He thus gradually 
 approaches, and at length comes within the cast 
 of a spear from his victim. Its fate is then 
 almost inevitable. 
 
 Jan. 20. Having lately visited a jplace named 
 Reed's Mistake, near the town of Newcastle (so 
 called from coal of good quality being procured 
 there), about ten hours' sail from Sydney we, 
 this day, addressed a letter to Sir Thomas Bris- 
 bane, requesting a grant of land for the e 
 and sole purpose of a Missionary settlement 
 there to which Mr. Threlkeld should In- ap- 
 pointed, as a preacher of the gospel and teacher 
 of useful knowledge to the aborigines in their 
 own tongue. 
 
 Jan. 27. Much verbal discussion of the sub-. 
 ject, with the attorney -;rene!-al and other j.*w- 
 son^. having taken place in the interval since 
 our application, we, this day, received a very 
 favourable written answer IVuni^thf ir< senior, 
 expressing his good-will, ana* 'promising his 
 best services in promoting our Christian pur- 
 pose. 
 
 Feb. 2. The landlord of our lodging has been 
 taken into custody on a charge of receiving 
 stolen goods. The trunk containing the-c. 
 which were principally jewellen, on 
 being made, was found (to his no small astonish- 
 ment ) under Mr. Tyerman's hcd. The dexter- 
 ons and daring fellow had actually borrowed 
 four hundred dollars of the Jew who had heen 
 rohhed, to purchase that .leu's own JT..; 
 the villain who had stolen it. lie c.une here, 
 originally, as a comirt; hut, in the course of 
 time. li:i\inu- obtained his liberty, he ha- 
 carning on a profitable business, and acquiring 
 wealth. Making, however, too much haste to 
 get rich he has fallen into temptation and a 
 snare, out of which it is probable that nothing 
 but deatli can deliver him ; transportation for 
 life being the only prospect at present before his 
 eyes. 
 
 Here are two very distinct cla-ses of colonists, 
 those who came hither, as freemen, volunta- 
 rily, to try their fortunes, or in official capaci- 
 ties, and those who, having been convicts and 
 served out their terms, are at liberty to return 
 to their country, but choose to settle here in 
 business or in agriculture. Among these there 
 are some who have prospered greatly, and art- 
 wealthy persons, but can never regain respecta- 
 bility of station in society. Those who Avere 
 never in bondage are naturally jealous of those 
 who bear the barbarous name of eman<ci-i>ist* , 
 and their high and honourable spirit will not 
 allow them to associate with the latter, though, 
 
 of course, there are exceptions ; but to the 
 former it would be an offence to meet, at the 
 table of a friend, one whose character had been 
 tainted. The mark of the branding-iron is 
 never effaced, though the anguish of the wound 
 has been healed for years, and the wrong done 
 to society forgiven, if not repaired. This, 
 though hard upon some reformed transgressors, 
 cannot be regarded as mere etiquette, in so 
 anomalous a population as this colony exhibits, 
 for the tone of moral feeling should be strong, 
 indeed it is never likely to be too strong. 
 
 March 10. We had much conversation with 
 Mr. Sheppard, a Church Missionary from New 
 Zealand, concerning the people of that remark- 
 able country, who are magnificent barbarians, 
 both in person and intellect, compared with the 
 abject natives of New Holland. We speak of 
 intellectual capacity rather than attai, 
 for, except in regard to all the arts of war, and 
 violence in other forms, tl. .. ntalh 
 
 dark, and as stupidly credulous, as any savages 
 on the face of the . urth. 
 
 A !'.. Captain Kent, with whom A\ e 
 sailed to and from the Sandwich Islands. !, 
 armed in this port from New /ealand, 
 he has been, for the lust fifteen monti 
 curiiiLT native llax, of which he 
 bither twentv -five tons for the 
 nicnt. Tin's will in time be an article of ex- 
 it es that ^ 
 
 called \ ,,f three distinct 
 
 islands; a strait, called Tees's, from the ship 
 ..f that name which first found a passage through, 
 the southern extremity. The inhabit- 
 ants in that \icinit\ are exceedingly tierce and 
 cruel, \et he li\ed among them upwards of a 
 \e:tr in fearless safety. Hut, during that 
 
 . captured, killed, 
 .1 or pretended \ 
 
 The flax above-mentioned may be found 
 dantlv dand. It is procured from a 
 
 ^e-like plant, growing, in n. 
 to the height of eight or nine feet. The 
 prepare it by scraping the broad 
 with the sharp edges of shells, and 
 flexile fibrous part till it is fit for use. 
 manufacture most of their clothing and matting 
 from this llax, and we have seen beautiful as 
 well as thick and warm mantles made of it, by 
 hand-weaving or close netting. 
 
 March 'JO. Mr. Dunlop, the government 
 nomer, an intelligent gentleman, who ha- 
 much of the aborigines during his re-; 
 here, and on his excursions into the country, 
 
 BD us some curious accounts ofth< 
 tions and practices. He says that they have a 
 superstitious idea of a being wliom tl. 
 Tian, who made the sky, and the land, and the 
 black men who made the whites they know 
 not. Tian appears to be a good genius, since 
 he was the author of all the productions of the 
 earth and sea, animal and vegetable, on which 
 they subsist. But they also believe in t 
 istence of an evil spirit, to whom they pay far 
 more homage, from fear of being harmed by 
 him, than they do to the beneficent Tian from 
 gratitude for ail the good he does them. The 
 
SHOCKING CONJURATIONS ARRIVAL OF SHIP BRUTUS. 
 
 195 
 
 former they imagine, is always going about 
 seeking whom he may devour, like his great 
 prototype. If a child is lost, this demon has 
 stolen it ; and, whatever calamity happens, no- 
 body hesitates to lay it to his charge. 
 
 Some time ago a man dreamed that he had 
 been speared through the body, and died in 
 consequence of the wound. When he awoke 
 and found that it was but a dream, he was so 
 terrified lest it should be something more ere 
 long! that he came to Mr. Dunlop, told him that 
 he 'was going to die, and begged a little water. 
 A jug-full being given him, he poured the 
 whole over his head probably as a peace-offer- 
 ing to the evil spirit. Tea and food were offer- 
 ed him, but he refused to taste anything, and 
 went away disconsolate to his haunt, at a short 
 distance from the government-house. Mr. 
 Dunlop, calling upon him the next day, found 
 him very ill dyinir, absolutely, from fear of 
 death. He had" chosen the place where he 
 would give up the ghost, and the spot where he 
 was to be buried. Nearly a week elapsed, dur- 
 ing which he would take no food, grew worse 
 and worse, and it Avas plain that nature could 
 not hold out much longer. Two priests, or 
 rather sorcerers for it cannot be ascertained 
 that the New Hollanders have any other kind 
 of priests, having, in fact, no religious worship 
 came to do what they could for him with 
 their enchantments. By their order he was 
 carried down to the side of a running water, 
 and tumbled into the stream, where it was 
 pretty deep, head foremost. "When taken out 
 lie was rolled in the sand, till his body was 
 quite cased with it. This again was washed 
 oil', ly pouring water over him. Meanwhile a 
 \ouim woman of the company was perceived 
 platting a cord of kangaroo's hair, which, when 
 completed, was bound round his chest, and a 
 knot, very curiously implicated by one of the 
 operators, was placed over that part of his side 
 into which the spear of his dream had entered. 
 From this knot a line was passed to the young 
 woman who had prepared the bandage. This 
 she drew through her mouth backward and for- 
 ward (as children sometimes do with a piece 
 of packthread) till she began to spit blood, 
 which was said to be sucked by that process 
 from the wound in the sick man's side. There, 
 it Mas now perceptible that, from whatever 
 cause, a considerable swelling had risen under the 
 knot. Towards this one of the sorcerers began 
 to stroke the man's flesh from all the adjacent 
 regions of the back, belly, and chest, as though 
 to force the blood thither. He then applied his 
 mouth to the swelling, and, with hideous noises, 
 sometimes sucked it with his lips, sometimes 
 pressed it violently with his hands, till forth 
 came the point of a spear, four inches in length, 
 which he presented to the astonished spectators 
 and the expecting sufferer, as verily extracted 
 from the man's side! Then he applied his 
 mouth again to the swollen part, from which, 
 though there was no visible wound, he appeared 
 to draw blood and corrupt matter, stains of 
 both being soon seen on the surrounding skin. 
 At length, with distended cheeks, as though he 
 
 had rilled his mouth with the abominable mat- 
 ter, he ran about, anxiously looking for a fit 
 place to discharge it xipoii; but, affecting to 
 find none, he crossed the water, and deposited 
 the nauseous extract behind a bush. The poor 
 man's hopes revived, and he now believed that 
 he should get well again. Mr. Dunlop there- 
 upon sent him some tea, which, however, he 
 would not drink, but requested that it might be 
 given to the sorcerer, and, if he drank it, then 
 it would do himself (the patient) good. He 
 was deceived, disappointed, and died. 
 
 The dreams of these people are often deemed 
 oracles ; and as such, when a man has been vi- 
 sited with a prophetic vision, as soon as he 
 awakes in the morning he forms it into a song, 
 which he chants forth to those who are about 
 him. These, learning both the words and the 
 melody, repeat them exactly to others, by whom 
 they are again published, in like manner, at a 
 distance, till they are communicated to tribes 
 that speak different dialects, among whom, never- 
 theless, all who learn the mysterious strains 
 preserve the original sounds and cadences, 
 though, perhaps, they understand not a syllable 
 of what they are singing. But the air, what- 
 ever be the sense, is known by the name of the 
 tribe from which it originated. At their coro- 
 beries, or dances after a battle, each warrior 
 sings his own achievements in his own song ; and 
 no Achilles in New Holland is likely to be for- 
 gotten for Avan t of a Homer; though, among 
 a people so utterly illiterate, not Homer him- 
 self could either giA'e immortality or gain it. Yet 
 they have a notion of immortality by Avay of 
 transmigration, formerly alluded to ; namely, 
 that Avhen a black man dies he goes into the 
 earth, where he is buried, and by some marvel- 
 lous process, comes out in a distant country a 
 white man. 
 
 April 8. The Brutus, arrived here from the 
 South Seas, Avith Mr. Nott, on board, on his 
 Avay to England. He brings comfortable tid- 
 ings from the islands concerning our brethren, 
 the Missionaries, and the progress of the gospel 
 among the natives. On the passage hither the 
 Brutus touched at one of the Friendly Islands, 
 when t\\o of the ship's company went on shore 
 to trallic Avith the natives. After they had pur- 
 chased many articles they attempted to return to 
 their boat, but Avere seized, and detained as 
 prisoners in a house strongly guarded, and with 
 axes held OA r er their heads; till the captain, 
 learning their perilous situation, and having no 
 force Avherewith to rescue them, entered into a 
 treaty for their ransom, \vhich w r as effected at 
 the expense of forty pounds' Avorth of goods. 
 This villanous artifice the savages have been 
 taught by their civilized A'isitors from both sides 
 of the Atlantic, Avho have frequently detained 
 their countrymen from returning to their canoes 
 for purposes of extortion. 
 
 Mr. Nott mentioned to us an example of the 
 outrageous conduct of some of those adven- 
 turers, who, certainly not having the tear of 
 God before their eyes, seem to think themselves 
 warranted to commit any violence when they 
 are beyond the fear of man. A captain, whose 
 
 o 2 
 
196 SHIP SEIZED BY NEW ZEALANDERS MURDER AND EXECUTION. 
 
 name and ship we purposely suppress, trading 
 at one of the small Chain Islands, by some mis- 
 conduct on his part, or misunderstanding or 
 the part of the natives, so enraged the lattei 
 that they fell upon those of his crew who were 
 on shore, and killed two of them. Incensed to 
 the highest degree (though we are assured tha 
 the aggression began on his side), he deter- 
 mined to glut himself with revenge, at a safe 
 opportunity. Accordingly he sailed away, bul 
 returned soon afterwards, and decoyed the un- 
 suspecting natives to come out in their canoes 
 as to a strange vessel. After a sufficient num- 
 ber had been treacherously admitted on board, 
 he gave the signal to his men, who were pre- 
 pared to execute his murderous purposes, when 
 they .fell upon their innocent visitors, killed 
 eleven of them, and threw their bodies to the 
 sharks. But this was not enough ; for, touch- 
 ing soon afterwards at Rurutu, he induced seve- 
 ral of the natives of that island to visit his ship, 
 then, suddenly getting underway, he forced fif- 
 teen into their canoes, and turned them adrift 
 on the broad ocean, where eleven perished, and 
 the rest were happily enabled to find their way 
 back to land. A third time, having occasion to 
 call at the former island, the natives, as before, 
 came on board, with an understanding among 
 themselves that, if it should prove to be the 
 same vessel and captain, they would visit his 
 iniquity upon his own head. Accordingly they 
 watched a favourable moment, when, suddenly 
 surrounding him, one of the party, with a hand- 
 spike, struck him a mortal wound, and then 
 they threw him into the sea, neither doing nor 
 attempting further injury to anybody, though it 
 seems they were in force to have exterminated 
 the crew and make a prize of the ship. Mr. 
 George Bicknell was a passenger, and witnessed 
 the retaliation so signal and so discriminating. 
 When the wretch at Rurutu had exposed the 
 helpless people in their canoes upon the deep, 
 and far from land, he was so eager to secure 
 their destruction (though neither they nor their 
 countrymen had done aught to offend him) that 
 he called for his musket, that he might have the 
 fiend-like satisfaction of tiring into their canoes 
 as his ship abandoned them ; but tin 1 man who 
 handed the engine of death to him had the hu- 
 manity and good sense to shake out the priming. 
 When, therefore, he would have discharged the 
 piece, he only snapped the triiru r er in vain, and 
 repeatedly, to his great mortification, so in- 
 sanely was he enraged against he knew not 
 whom. 
 
 April 23. Intelligence has just been received 
 that a vessel was lately cut off in Wan-jama 
 Bay, New Zealand, where we were so awfully 
 endangered and providentially delivered. The 
 crew escaped, previous to the seizure, in their 
 boats to the Bay of Islands. The ship was 
 rifled of everything movable ; but, at the inter- 
 cession of the Wesley an Missionaries, she was 
 afterwards abandoned, and, drifting out of the 
 harbour, got aground at North Cape. The 
 Missionary station itself has been attacked by- 
 savages, but we are happy to learn that their 
 rage was disanmd before they had achieved 
 
 their violent purpose, whether of massacre, or 
 plunder, or both. 
 
 April 30. A murder was lately committed in 
 this neighbourhood, in which five persons four 
 men and a woman were concerned, and 'for 
 which they were all convicted and executed. 
 A settler, whose wife was in a state of d 
 ment that required the vigilance and care of a 
 female attendant, engaged a respectable-looking 
 person, of peculiarly insinuating address, about 
 thirty-two years of age, to undertake this office. 
 She, however, not only looked after the unfor- 
 tunate wife, but ensnared the more unfortunate 
 husband, and lived with him in a state of con 
 cubinage. Not content with that portion ol 
 ill-fame and present maintenance which she had 
 thus secured, she persuaded him to bequeath 
 his small property to her in case of his death 
 She then intrigued with other men, ami 
 cially with four convict-labourers (she hei>elt 
 was a convict) whom government had allowed 
 to be attached to the service of her master. In 
 the sequel, the five formed a diabolical plot to 
 murder the latter in his house, by night, that 
 they might secure his property before the time. 
 She opened the door and their purpose M 
 complished. In the morning she gave the alarm, 
 saying, that some burglars had made ti. 
 into the house, locked her up, and then robbed 
 and murdered her master. It appeared, h 
 upon examination, that the door had been broken 
 from within, and not forced open from without, 
 leaum,' no doubt that she had been the 1< 
 of the deceased. Suspicion was soon fixed upon 
 the four men, who, with herself, were lo>i 
 prison on the charge. While they were there, 
 and previous to their trial, Mr. Bennet \i^iti -d 
 them, in company with the Rev. S. \I 
 They all appeared confident of acquittal, >h<- 
 especially protesting that she was as inn< 
 the babe unborn. She was exceedingly shrewd 
 and plausible, but the four men were grossly 
 ignorant not one of them could write or read ; 
 two said they were Irish Catholics ; the others 
 supposed that they must be English 1'roti -slants 
 because they were not papists, and that 
 they knew about the matter. On their trial, 
 however, the most unanswerable evidence 
 (rou-rht the crime home to each of the a. 
 Mr. 15,-nnet again visited them, iu prison, on 
 the morning of execution. Their tone and car- 
 riage were then much altered ; they all acknow- 
 ledged their guilt. A Roman Catholic priest 
 ittended the two who were.of his profession ; and 
 the Rev. Mr. Cooper, of Sydney, the \ 
 and one of the other two. Such a livin_ 
 acle of horror, remorse, and despair, as the 
 .vretched female exhibited, Mr. Bennet 
 )eheld. She was on her knees, crying bitterly, 
 n the anguish of her spirit ; but at length she 
 composed herself sufficiently to listen to such re- 
 igious exhortations as could be addn- 
 me in circumstances so imminent and awful ; 
 at the close of which she declared her gratitude 
 o her Christian advisers, and prayed that slit 
 might find mercy. The five v\ere soon after- 
 vards brought out and sutl'ered death under the 
 erallows. 
 
AN ESCAPE FROM THE GALLQWS DEATH OF A SAILOR. 
 
 197 
 
 Some years ago a man, named Samuel, was 
 condemned to be hanged for a burglary. Ac- 
 cordingly, on the day fixed for his execution, 
 the criminal was tied up to the fatal beam, but 
 the cord broke in the middle and he fell down ; 
 a second time he was suspended, the knot then 
 slipped and he was again let down to the ground ; 
 a third time the persevering executioner launched 
 his victim from the platform, when the rope 
 snapped short and he was again delivered from 
 instant death. The provost-marshal, commiser- 
 ating the protracted sufferings of the wretched 
 man, forthwith repaired to the governor, and 
 pleaded so effectually in his behalf, that the 
 capital punishment, to which he had been sen- 
 tenced, was commuted for a milder doom. 
 
 June 9. Having settled the terms on which 
 an extensive allotment of land, for a Missionary 
 settlement at Newcastle, should be made 'by 
 government ; and having given Mr. Threlkeld, 
 whom we leave as the Christian instructor of 
 the ignorant natives in that place, the best ad- 
 vice which our knowledge and experience en- 
 abled us to offer, for carrying on, with zeal and 
 patience, the work of the Lord thus committed 
 to his charge, which instructions were submitted 
 to the governor, and approved by him ; we have 
 been wailing, during the last two months, for a 
 suitable opportunity by which we might proceed 
 on our mission towards China and India. Se- 
 veral weeks ago we engaged a passage to Bata- 
 viaon board of the Hugh Crawford, an excellent 
 vessel, which came into this harbour at that time, 
 and has since been on a cruise to Van Bieman's 
 Land : whence having returned hither, and be- 
 ing now ready to sail on her further voyage, we 
 embarked to-day. 
 
 We leave tliis land where we have received 
 marked hospitality and disinterested kindness, 
 from persons in all ranks of society, with whom 
 we have had intercourse with feelings of gra- 
 titude which will accompany us to our graves; 
 for so long as we have power to remember Syd- 
 ney and Parramatta, we must associate, with 
 tin' places of their abode, those affectionate 
 Christian friends, and those generous patrons of 
 our Missionary project, who made our sojourn 
 there delightful and profitable, at least to ourselves. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 
 Torres Straits Deathof a Sailor at Sea Buy of Batavia 
 Mr. Mcdhurst, Missionary in Java Chinese in Bata- 
 via Malays Hospital Vint to the Dutch Governor of 
 Java Appearance of the Country Village of Brait.cn- 
 /.ori: Premises and Hospitality of the Governor Pic- 
 ture of Buonaparte Christian Village Journey to 
 SamarangA Javanese Prince Suspension and float- 
 ing Bridges Volcanic Mountains Tiger-traps Ceme- 
 ln -i.-s- Marvellous Stor\ Revellers Method of fright- 
 euin^' Hirds from Rice-fields Buffaloes Mr. Bruck- 
 ner, Baptist Missionary Chinese Temple and Priests 
 Visit to Solo A Grandee. 
 
 1825. JUNE 29. This day we have completed 
 the intricate and dangerous part of the naviga- 
 tion of Torres Straits, winding between New 
 Holland and New Guinea on the north. We 
 record the date of this event, on our voyage, 
 because we feel that we have been continually 
 delivered from hinderances and difficulties, MM ii 
 and unseen, in the way, which might have 
 
 proved destructive to the vessel or fatal to our- 
 selves, under circumstances less favourable than 
 those which, by order of a gracious Providence, 
 have made our four days' passage (coming to 
 anchor every evening), about a hundred and 
 fifty miles in length, among sunken rocks, coral 
 islands, shoals and reefs, delightful by day and 
 secure by night. This was the more remarkable, 
 as there were two other ships (the Hercules and 
 the Asia) in company with ours, and no damage 
 has been suffered by either, nor any delay occa- 
 sioned, except in a single instance, when the 
 Asia ran aground, but was got off in the course 
 of half an hour. We are now eighteen days at 
 sea, from Sydney, andjhave had none but plea- 
 sant weather. The open ocean once again be- 
 fore us, we cheerfully commit ourselves to Him 
 whom winds and waves obey, desiring only to 
 be prospered as we trust we are sincerely endea- 
 vouring to do his "business," and not our own, 
 in the mighty waters. 
 
 July 5. S. lat. 9 52', E. long. 128 20'. 
 This morning a signal was made by the Her- 
 cules for the. surgeon, who sailed with us, to 
 come with assistance immediately wanted. A 
 sailor had fallen from the fore-tops upon the 
 deck, and fractured his skull. Mr. Bell, the 
 surgeon, lost no time in going on board that 
 vessel, but before he had reached it the unfor- 
 tunate sufferer was dead. He was said to be 
 the best man of the crew. At twelve o'clock, 
 at noon, his body was committed to the deep. 
 This circumstance threw a melancholy gloom 
 over the whole of our little fleet ; the three ships 
 which were sailing! together within a furlong 
 of each other, in a silence quite unconcerted, 
 but so inevitable and affecting, that the recol- 
 lection still brings the burden and shade of that 
 interval over our spirits; We (the Deputation) 
 were peculiarly touched, at once with glowing 
 gratitude, and humble awe, by the consideration 
 that this was the first death, in our presence, 
 by one of those accidents which daily expose 
 mariners to sudden destruction, since we left 
 our native country four years ago, during which 
 we have sailed thousands and tens of thousands 
 of miles, in all weathers and in almost all 
 climates. 
 
 July 17. Without any further occurrence ne- 
 cessary to be mentioned, we came into the Bay 
 of Batavia this evening. As we doubled the 
 Madura-point, or the extremity of land on the 
 eastern quarter, we were struck with the mag- 
 nificent picture presented to our eyes a long 
 range of lofty mountains inland ; thick forest- 
 jungles, stretching down to the edge of the 
 water ; on the one side many small islands, 
 with beacons upon them ; and in the middle 
 distance the broad plain between the shore 
 and the high grounds on which the city of 
 Batavia stands. It was so late before we 
 came to anchor, that we could not reach the 
 usual station, where from fifty to bixty ships, of 
 many sizes, and from various countries, were 
 reposing on the tide, at the distance of four or 
 five miles from us. Besides these the harbour 
 was thronged with barges, boats, and ether 
 small craft, some of very outlandish appearance 
 
198 MR. MEDHURST, MISSIONARY IN JAVA CHINESE IN BATAVIA. 
 
 to us, who have yet seen little of oriental ship- 
 ping. Four huge Chinese junks particularly 
 attracted our notice, and perfectly agreed vtiVD 
 all our preconceived ideas concerning the " Ce- 
 lestial Empire." Everything Chinese bears 
 such characteristic marks of the country and 
 the people to which it belongs, that, from a ship 
 to a tea-cup, you can scarcely be mistaken in 
 guessing whence it comes. 
 
 July 18. We came to the regular anchoring- 
 place at noon, near two massy piers, formed of 
 piles and planks, that run about three quarters 
 of a mile each into the bay, receiving betwafaji 
 them, as a channel, the waters of a considerable 
 river, which here disembogues itself. The ciii^- 
 rent is strong, and of a muddy, red colon; 
 and down this stream many small vessels were 
 plying, and there appeared about the whole scene 
 an air of business, and an activity of inter- 
 which we had not witnessed since we left the 
 Thames. 
 
 We were received by the resident Missionary 
 of the London Society here, Mr. Medhurst, 
 with great cordiality. Knowing that our stay 
 must be short, we took an early opportunity of 
 walking through the various quarters of this 
 great city, which everywhere bears evidence of 
 extensive commercial enterprise and traffic to 
 distant lands. Two considerable rivers rm etinir 
 here, canals have been made to branch forth 
 from them in different directions, to ventilate 
 and cleanse the place ; and down each of the 
 two principal streets a channel has been formed, 
 of depth sufficient for barges to pass to and fro 
 upon it. Trees are planted, at equal distances, 
 on the banks. .Many of the houses are large, 
 and sumptuous in appearance, having been con- 
 structed in the grotesque Dutch style. Must of 
 them are now converted into stores for mer- 
 chandise, of which immense quantities are laid 
 up in them. These mansions were formerly the 
 dwellings of the principal Dutch families, but 
 liaM- 1 teen deserted on account of the frequent 
 fevers to which a thick-peopled town, in the 
 torrid zone, and standing in the midst of a 
 prodigious swamp, is subject. The merchants 
 and the merchants here, like those of Tyre, 
 " are princes" have found both healthy and 
 pleasant situations for villas in the neighbour- 
 hood, within four or five miles of this me- 
 tropolis of Dutch India. Batavia is regularly 
 built ; the streets cross each other at right 
 angles, and are of suitable width, well paved, 
 and having broad footpaths of granite, or tiles, 
 on each side ; the carriage-way between is 
 gravelled. 
 
 There is a portion, however, of the city 
 strongly contrasted with the European parts, 
 inhabited solely by Chinese, and called their 
 camp. These foreigners live generally in small 
 low houses, to each of which is attached a shop, 
 with all manner of wares, drugs, fruits, &e. S:c., 
 exposed for sale both within and without. In 
 every shop, opposite to the front door, is an idol 
 painted on paper a fat, squat, old man, a firry 
 living dragon, a monstrous fish, or some horrible 
 figure, before which is placed a petty altar a 
 little pot, containing fragrant gums, or sticks ol 
 
 sandal-wood, which are kept continually burn- ; 
 ing. The ashes are carefully preserved, and 
 accumulate in the vessel, till one or another of 
 the family is going on a journey or a voyage, 
 when a handful is taken out of the precious de- 
 posit, and thrown upon the road, or the vt ater. 
 to make the way safe, and the adventure pros- 
 perous. Mr. Medhurst conversed from door to 
 door with many of these people, in their own 
 language. They were exceedingly courteous, 
 and offered us tea and tobacco from time to 
 time. The tea is prepared in porcelain pots, 
 holding about a pint each, and dealt out in very 
 small cups, without any addition of sugar or 
 cream. In one of these shops we found a fa- 
 mous quack-doctor, who tramps about town and 
 country, hawking his nostrums. He attracts 
 company by beating a drum which he carries 
 with him, made of a bamboo, five feet in length, 
 which he strikes alternately with a fan and with 
 his tit ; producing no very warlike sounds. 
 Attached to this dull drum is a large Hag, which 
 he flings over his shoulder, and displays at his 
 bark, having pencilled upon it in ('him- 
 
 . the marvellous cures which hi- 
 lotions and pills have performed. This fellow 
 is called a fool ; he maybe one, but th 
 fools enough beside to be delighted with his 
 drollerj', and taken with his preten 
 he lives well and thrives on his pin sic, whatever 
 his patients may do. 
 
 \\ next -visited a Chinese temple, 
 idol-worship is occasionally performed. It 
 stands within an enclosure of high brick walls, 
 and consists of various compartment 15 , quite 
 open to the air on one side. Before these are 
 placed tables for altars, behind which n 
 ous groups of images, of many s: 
 and colours; some gilt, others plain: 
 adorned with fantastic trappings ol 
 while sweet odours and sandal-wood are kept 
 burning in their presence. Transparent lau- 
 re also suspended at suitabl* 
 Ilowed to walk through the sanctuaries, 
 and even handle the id. . though 
 
 ndants were at \\>rk in the 
 court-yard. While conversing \\ith u p: 
 said to us, " Don't you think I am a very good 
 manl" " Why should we think so f" ^ 
 reply. " Because," said he, " I am so very tall." 
 
 Chinese men are seen every \\ he: 
 their shoulders a kind of apparatus whic 
 many useful purposes. At the end of a bain- 
 boo, a square cage-like frame, about eighteen 
 inches each way, is suspended, in which 
 a pot for cooking their food, or boiling water in 
 it to make tea. At the other end of the ham- 
 boo there is a similar cage, containing provi- 
 sions, or articles which they have to sell. These 
 they place in the street, under the shadow of a 
 tree, and are at once at home wherever they 
 happen to rest tent, kitchen, and shop, being 
 thus over their head, and on either hand. There 
 arc said to be fifty thousand of these people 
 here", who are distinguished, not only by the 
 peculiar cast of their countenances, but b\ long 
 plaited tails dangling from the back of their 
 heads. 
 
CHINESE AND MALAY HOSPITAL TRAVELLING IN JAVA. 
 
 199 
 
 The Malays are nearly as numerous as the 
 Chinese. They are, however, very differently 
 occupied, being employed by the Dutch and 
 English inhabitants in all kinds of drudgery. 
 Many are porters, others domestic servants, and 
 some of them artizans, jobbing in carpenters' 
 and blacksmiths' work, &c. Their wages are 
 very low, and they are altogether a servile race. 
 In features and form they much resemble the 
 South Sea Islanders, who are probably descend- 
 ed from the remote ancestors of these degraded 
 beings. 
 
 July 19. We have been much gratified to 
 find here an hospital, erected expressly for the 
 benefit of the Chinese and Malays. It is a 
 noble building, and of considerable extent. On 
 one side are apartments for lunatics, containing 
 forty-three cells, but not yet completed. We 
 saw many of the sick and diseased patients, of 
 whom no small proportion were afflicted with 
 leprosy in all its loathsome forms, maiming, 
 mutilating, devouring alive, its miserable vic- 
 tims. The accommodations appeared exceed- 
 ingly comfortable, and the medical attendants 
 are the best that can be procured. It is a beau- 
 tiful and affecting circumstance, that this blessed 
 institution should be supported by an " orphan 
 fund," from the unclaimed property of persons 
 ihin^ without will, and Avithout heirs. Yet 
 what a train of melancholy thoughts are awak- 
 ened by a few moments' reflection on such a 
 subject in this world of woe and death! 
 
 At Mr. Medhurst's city apartments, a con- 
 siderable number of ailing persons are in the 
 habit of coming to him for medical assistance, 
 which he kindly administers. To-day there 
 were twelve poor men and boys present, with 
 sores on different parts of their bodies. Hav- 
 ing first embraced the opportunity of giving them 
 spiritual instruction, and praying with them, 
 according to his practice, he caused all their 
 wounds to be dressed. 
 
 July 20. Having procured poneys, we set off 
 in a small four-wheeled carriage for Baitenzorg, 
 a village thirty-six miles from Batavia, to pay 
 our respects to the governor of Java, Baron 
 Vander Capellan. His Excellency last week 
 had appointed an interview with Mr. Medhurst, 
 to converse with him on the subject of the Chi- 
 nese version of the Scriptures. The road runs 
 nearly south from Batavia, is excellently formed, 
 and about thirty feet wide, with a low trim 
 fence on each side. This is called the gentle- 
 men's road, there being on either hand another, 
 for broad and narrow- wheeled carriages respec- 
 tively. The way, for the most part, lies through 
 a level country, of a deep red alluvial soil, very 
 fruitful and well cultivated. Many handsome 
 villas, and comfortable farm-houses are seen, 
 amidst gardens, plantations, and enclosures, to 
 the distance of six or seven miles from the city. 
 Most of the tre'es with which we had become 
 familiar in the South Sea Islands thrive here, 
 besides the teak, tamarind, and others, valuable 
 for their timber or their fruit, and highly orna- 
 mental by their breadth and luxuriance of foli- 
 Rge. Paddy-fields (or lire-grounds) frequently 
 occur along the line of our da\':s Journey, <>ii 
 
 the slopes of the hills, terrace above terrace. 
 The young plants are at this time about six 
 inches in height, and the whole surface of each 
 ridge on which they grow, is irrigated to the 
 depth of an inch above the root. 
 
 Every six miles we stopped to change horses, 
 relays being, at stages of that length, expressly 
 maintained for such accommodation to travel- 
 lers. Over the road where this operation is 
 performed, a high shed, with a thatched roof is 
 carried, of sufficient length for two carriages to 
 stand under it at once. These coverings are 
 deemed necessary for the protection both of 
 passengers and the cattle that draw their vehi- 
 cles, from the intense heat of the sun. The 
 stables adjacent are neat erections, with boarded 
 floors ; open on each side ; and having a parti- 
 tion down the middle, separating the whole 
 into two stands for the poneys, which are placed 
 head towards head, on either side of it. None 
 but horse-poneys are used here in travelling 
 carriages, it being deemed disreputable for any 
 but the poorest people to employ mares, and 
 those principally in the interior, where multi- 
 tudes of these animals are bred. They are ex- 
 ceedingly active and vigorous ; four of them 
 easily drew us at the i~ate of nine miles an hour. 
 Very few large horses are seen in Java, except 
 those kept by the governor. We met or passed 
 many carts and carriages of rude construction, 
 drawn by buffaloes of great size, with enormous 
 hoi % ns. We observe that the bamboo is one of 
 the most useful products of the soil. It grows 
 to a prodigious height and compass, and fur- 
 nishes the prime material for the walls, rafters, 
 and even the thatching for houses ; it is manu- 
 factured into doors, window-frames, lattice- 
 work, screens, floor-mats, tables, chairs, &c. &c. 
 
 We reached Baitenzorg in the evening, and 
 took up our quarters at an excellent inn there, 
 which is under the control as well as patronage 
 of the governor, who thus considerately secures 
 good accommodation and courteous behaviour 
 to travellers and visitors. On our arrival we 
 found a considerable difference of temperature 
 between this village and Batavia, the thermo- 
 meter being as low as 75, and the air very 
 agreeable. 
 
 July 21. We took an early walk round the 
 gardens and pleasure-grounds of the governor's 
 palace, which is a large and sumptuous white 
 building in the Dutch style, forming a crescent, 
 and surrounded by piazzas. The little park is 
 laid out with much taste ; beautifully diversified 
 with hill and dale, wood and water. The plan- 
 tations consist of a great variety of curious indi- 
 genous and foreign trees and shrubs, each of 
 which is labelled with its name. On the lake 
 are seen both black and white swans ; and in 
 proper cages, near the house, are kept wild na- 
 tive animals, such as the black bear, several 
 kinds of monkeys, the sloth, tiger, and fox, a 
 gigantic vulture, a boa-constrictor, and another 
 snake, each of enormous size, alligators, &c. 
 There are likewise aviaries occupied by many 
 rare and splendid birds, which are placed in 
 various parts of the grounds. But. the most. 
 remarkable curiosities preserved here, are sun- 
 
200 
 
 A CHRISTIAN VILLAGE SABBATH IN BATAVIA. 
 
 dry huge images, carved out of black lava, with 
 considerable dexterity of hand. These are of 
 great antiquity, and evidently of Hindoo origin 
 and workmanship, being representations of cer- 
 tain divinities of that people. They were dug 
 up some years ago in this island, from an old 
 mass of ruins, which probably had been a tem- 
 pter. We found a small coin lying upon one of 
 them, which some humble devotee had left in 
 token of recognition, that these were gods to 
 him, whatever he might be to them, who knew 
 neither of his existence nor their own. 
 
 Being afterwards introduced to the governor, 
 who behaved to us with perfect courtesy, and 
 entertained us hospitably, we availed ourselves 
 of the opportunity, as representatives of the 
 London Society, to return the thanks that were 
 due to him for his uniform kindness to our Mis- 
 sionary, Mr. Medhurst. His Excellency, who 
 speaks English well, made many intelligent 
 inquiries respecting the islands in the Pacific, 
 which we had lately visited, and he seemed 
 much gratified with the accounts which we were 
 enabled to give him respecting their improve- 
 ment in all the arts and comforts of life, which, 
 but for the gospel, itself the greatest of all be- 
 nefits, they might never have known. 
 
 In this village there is a street nearly a mile 
 long, inhabited solely by Chinese. "We called 
 at several of their houses, and found in each an 
 idol of some kind. That which most surprised 
 us was a French engraving of the Emperor 
 Napoleon Buonaparte, in a gilt frame, before 
 which incense was burning; and the old man 
 to whom the picture belonged, in our presence 
 paid it divine honours, bowing himself in va- 
 rious antic attitudes, and offering a prayer tor 
 blessings upon himself and his family. When 
 \\e asked him why he worshipped that as a god 
 which came from Europe, and not from his o\\ n 
 country, he frankly replied, " Oh, v\r worship 
 anything !" In this street are two temples one 
 a decent building under repair, the other an 
 open shed on a little mound, consisting of a 
 slight square roof, supported by four pillars. 
 In this sanctuary are several misshapen stones, 
 planted on their ends, to which prayers are 
 daily made by beings (in that respect) as stupid 
 as themselves. A cocoa-nut shell was placed 
 in the midst of these blocks, containing some 
 pmall offerings. We visited two other edifices 
 of similar construction, and consecrated to gods 
 of the same material as these, namely, shape- 
 less upright stones, which it seems the rude 
 Malays worship with not less devotion than the 
 shrewd Chinese. Behind one of these idola- 
 trous seats, we observed the wreck of an enor- 
 mous tree, hollow and rotten within, and mea- 
 suring ninety-three feet in girth towards the 
 root. The other temple gives the name of 
 I d(i/-titlis t or engraven stone, to the neighbour- 
 hood, from the incomprehensible divinity which 
 it encloses, namely, a triangular stone about 
 six feet high, inscribed with characters which 
 neither native nor European has yet been able 
 to decipher. These ha\e hcen conjectured to 
 lie unique specimens of the obsolete 
 writing. 
 
 July 22. On our way back to Batavia we 
 turned about four miles out of the main road, at 
 the third stage, to see a Christian village, called 
 Depock, inhabited by a race of Malay Protest- 
 ants, now amounting to a hundred and eighty 
 persons, of all ages. About a century since, a 
 Dutch gentleman, the owner of this village, and 
 also of a number of slaves, offered to give the 
 latter not only their freedom, but the estate 
 which they occupied, and secure the same to 
 their descendants, if they would embrace the 
 Christian religion. They agreed to this extra- 
 ordinary proposal, and he fulfilled his promise. 
 Their posterity enjoy the inheritance and 
 worthily enjoy it, we may say, for certainly they 
 are a reformed, if not a pious, class of their 
 uncultivated countrymen. Their houses and 
 grounds were comfortable and cleanly. There 
 is a little chapel in this pretty village, where 
 Mr. Medhurst occasionally preaches. In the 
 school-house we found a Malay version of the 
 Psalms, adapted to music ; also several excellent 
 forms of prayer, and catechisms. Most of the 
 children, thirty-nine in number, are 
 acquainted with the latter, and are duly taught 
 the former. The whole sequestered nook is 
 enclosed with large umbrageous trees, of various 
 kinds ; and, amidst the impenetrated 
 darkness, and the more bewildering Mahom- 
 medan mists, which overspread the noble island 
 of Java, there is light it may be but a little, 
 yet there is some of the true light in the habita- 
 tions of this Christian Goshen. 
 
 July 24. (Lord's-day.) Mr.Tyerman preached, 
 in the forenoon, in the Missionary chapel here. 
 Between forty and fifty English were ] 
 all of whom came in carriages to the door. This 
 ! is considered a large congregation. In the af- 
 | ternoon we attended the Dutch church, in which 
 service is performed by a Dutch minister in the 
 language of the Malays. 'There might be a 
 hundred of these people, professing Christianity, 
 present ; they behaved well, and their appear- 
 ance was far more respectable than that of their 
 wild countrymen in general. Mr. Medhurst 
 preached also in the Malay at this chapel in 
 the evening; but, in consequence of a heavy 
 fall of rain, the audience was small. Through- 
 out the city the population was all in motion, 
 as though there were no Sabbath, and no eter- 
 nity. Business, folly, pleasure, are pursued as 
 on other days, both by Dutch and English, in 
 the streets here, or at their villas in the country, 
 where hunting, shooting, and field-recreations 
 are considered no violations of decorum. Oh ! 
 what a contrast between this proud, rich, popu- 
 lous city, and the poor, humble, happy islands 
 of the South Sea, on that day which leads man 
 to " the end of all things," and antedates, to 
 him who duly considers this, the blessedness of 
 heaven. 
 
 July 20. Having consigned the principal part 
 of our lu^Lraire, which had not been removed 
 from the ship, to Singapore, we set out on an 
 expedition to Samarang, which lies nearly four 
 hundred miles eastward from Batavia. The 
 whole economy of posting being in the h; 
 government, travelling is accomplished with 
 
JAVANESE PRINCE CEMETERIES. 
 
 201 
 
 comparatively little inconvenience, and no un- 
 necessary delay. The stages for changing horses 
 (poneys) are at regular intervals, six miles 
 asunder, and where, in the mountainous re- 
 gions, the strength of these is not sufficient to 
 draw the carriages, buffaloes are attached, in 
 addition to them, without increased expense. 
 The poneys occasionally took us at the rate of 
 from ten to twelve miles in the hour, on level 
 ground. 
 
 July 30. We arrived safely at Samarang. We 
 shall not attempt to give any topographical de- 
 scription of the country through which we jour- 
 neyed thus hastily. Most of the way was upon 
 well-constructed roads, across plains, valleys, 
 mountains, swamps, jungles, and rivers. Several 
 very considerable towns are passed through on 
 this line of road. Among these may be men- 
 tioned Cheanjor, the residence of a Javanese 
 prince, who, with his subjects (and, indeed, the 
 bulk of the native population of the wholeisland), 
 an- Mahommedans. We were introduced to his 
 Highness, who received us very graciously ; and 
 when we gave him (through Mr. Medhurst) 
 some account of our visit to the South Sea, he 
 expressed himself as being much gratified to 
 hear the strange tidings of whole nations throw- 
 ing away their idols, and consenting to worship 
 the one true God. We were entertained with 
 cigars and sweetmeats ; after which tea was also 
 served to the company present. The prince, 
 who appears to be about forty-five years old, 
 was dressed after the Turkish costume. His 
 palace, in extent, if not in splendour, is truly 
 oriental. Apartment beyond apartment (the 
 doors being in a line and open) stretched in 
 perspective to the length of at least a furlong, 
 with lateral chambers diverging on either hand. 
 The room in which we had our audience was 
 very spacious, surrounded with tables, chairs, 
 and sofas, the floor covered with mats, and the 
 sides almost quite open. The town is esti- 
 mated to contain ten thousand inhabitants ; the 
 houses and shops are generally decent and 
 cleanly. A stream of fresh water is conducted 
 down cadi side of every street, so that the dwell- 
 ings are abundantly supplied with that prime 
 element of health and comfort in a torrid clime. 
 The Dutch local governor is brother to the go- 
 vernor-general, Baron Vander Capellan. 
 
 In leaving Cheanjor, we arrived upon the 
 brink of a formidable ravine, down which the 
 carriage was conveyed by men in front guiding 
 its course, while others behind prevented it from 
 rushing on too precipitately, by holding ropes 
 fastened to the frame-work. It was then drawn 
 across a hanging-bridge, over a deep gully, 
 through which a great force of water runs, furi- 
 ously roaring and foaming below. The road 
 on the opposite side of the ravine being as steep 
 as that which we had descended, the carriage 
 was dragged up to the height by four buffaloes. 
 The hanging-bridges, which are not uncommon 
 here, though very rough work to the eye, 
 are constructed with much ingenuity. Three 
 long and strong spars, about a yard asunder, 
 are lii-nil v planted on the opposile sides of the 
 si ream. These are so placed, slopingly, as to 
 
 meet at the tops, where' they are lashed toge- 
 ther. From the sides of the pointed arch, thus 
 formed, other spars are let doAvn, by which the 
 bridge of planks is suspended, with bamboo 
 fences, split bamboo floor, and a thatched awning 
 over the whole. These light fabrics trembled 
 through every fibre of all their frames (we might 
 say) when our carriage was whirled along them, 
 but we never feared nor met with nn accident. 
 
 In one place we had to pass over a floating- 
 bridge, the nature of the ground not allowing a 
 suspension one. A raft of bamboos is formed, 
 with a platform of the same upon it, over which 
 a carriage may be drawn. This, being laid upon 
 the water, rises and falls with the flood, and is 
 kept in its place by rattan ropes, the thickness 
 of strong ship-cordage. A bundle of these is 
 stretched from one side of the river to the other, 
 where each end is made fast. Ropes of the 
 same texture are then attached both to this 
 transverse cable of rattan and to the raft, so as 
 to prevent the latter from being drifted down 
 the current, which is sometimes very broad and 
 rapid, as in one of our crossings, where the 
 stream was seventy yards wide. At Korausam- 
 bourg we were ferried across the river on a raft 
 made of five canoes lashed together. 
 
 Near the town of Banda several volcanic 
 mountains rose upon the horizon, of such ele- 
 vation that clouds generally rested on their 
 summits. Beyond Sumadang our route lay 
 frequently through thick jungles, the haunts of 
 tigers, as we were from time to time reminded 
 by the traps set for them on the way-side, or by 
 the cries of the kids which are placed as live 
 baits in these. Stems of trees are laid on each 
 other horizontally, forming a recess within, ten 
 or twelve feet long by four or five broad, and as 
 many high ; at one end a strong door is made 
 to slide down at the pressure of his foot on 
 some wicker-work beyond, and cut oft' the ani- 
 mal's retreat, when it has entered to seize its 
 prey as some kinds of rat-traps are constructed 
 in England. The kid is secured at the further 
 end, beyond the tiger's grasp. We were happily 
 preserved from danger from any of these fero- 
 cious creatures. 
 
 At the village of Cheribon, where we entered 
 a Chinese house, and saw no idol, neither image 
 nor picture, with incense burning before it, we 
 inquired the reason, when we were told that 
 there had just been a death in the family, and 
 the god had been removed, that he might not 
 be offended with the sight of so disgusting an 
 object as a dead body. In several groves near 
 the same village were cemeteries, in which the 
 graves, by the neatness of their external struc- 
 ture, shewed extraordinary respect on the part 
 of survivors towards their deceased relatives. 
 Some were overbuilt with masonry in five or 
 six courses, narrowing to the height, like steps, 
 and surmounted by coffin-shaped ornaments at 
 either end. Others had blocks of wood, simply 
 or curiously carved, set up at the head and the 
 feet. These were native sepulchres. In the 
 neighbourhood we found a Chinese burial- 
 ground also -a gently sloping bank-side in 
 which the dormitories of the dead were exca- 
 
202 
 
 MARVELLOUS STORY CHINESE KKVKLLERS. 
 
 vatcd, in rows, with an opening into each like 
 the mouth of an oven, which is compactly closed, 
 and coloured white. These people are very 
 superstitious respecting the sites in which they 
 deposit the relics of their friends, imagining 
 that the future prosperity of their families de- 
 pends upon the lucky choice of them. To 
 secure such an advantage they will often consult 
 such crafty knaves as, under one name or an- 
 other, are found in all countries, who cast na- 
 tivities, tell fortunes, recover lost goods, and do 
 every thing that nobody else can do. The fol- 
 lowing marvellous story was told to Mr. Med- 
 hurst as a fact, by a Chinese, who solemnly be- 
 lieved it : A young man, at his death, having 
 left a father and several brothers behind, whose 
 success in after life was to be determined by tin- 
 hazard of his interment in good ground, one of 
 these wise men was applied to for advice. He, 
 being properly feed, pointed out a spot, which 
 he charged them to keep closed upon the dead 
 youth for seven years, at the expiration of which, 
 if they opened it, they would find in it a full- 
 formed dragon, the emblem of the highest ho- 
 nours and riches that they could desire, cither 
 for themselves or their posterity. Five or six 
 years afterwards the father fell dangerously ill, 
 and, as no means employed to relieve him were 
 of any avail, the family contluded that there 
 must be something unlucky in the place of his 
 son's burial. They, therefore, asked his per- 
 mission to open it. " No, no," cried the old 
 man ; " rather let me die than break the charm 
 and destroy the future hopes of my children." 
 But, agonized with disease, and harassed by 
 their importunity, he at length yielded to their 
 wishes. The vault was opened when lo ! to 
 their utter consternation, they found the dragon 
 so nearly perfected, that he only wanted one 
 leg and half his tail. In an instant the fortunes 
 of all were ruined; for the spell not being com- 
 pleted, left nothing but dust and disappointment 
 when it was violated. 
 
 While our horses were changing at a place 
 called Pamalang, wo heard music in a m-i 
 bouring house, and ventured to go in, ob 
 that it belonged to a Chinese. The owner had 
 boon ill, and vowed that if his god wonld heal 
 him he would make a great feast for his friends. 
 He recovered, and, giving his god credit for the 
 cure, the man was now perform!: 
 and the feast had already been kopt up with duo 
 merriment for three days. We were welcomed 
 with groat hospitality, and invitod to partake of 
 the dainties provided on the occasion, and with 
 which the tables were abundantly furnished. 
 Tea, spirits, and sweetmeats were cordially of- 
 fered to us. The house was crowded with revel- 
 lers. Some of those were playing at cards and 
 other games on the floor, till two Javanese 
 dancing-girls made their entry, and began to 
 skip about and exhibit all theaccomplishments 
 of that art, in which their bauds, their arms, 
 and thoir very ringers, had as much employment 
 a> their feet. Their voices also occasionally 
 screamed between, in short, broken sentences, 
 challenging and answering each other, while 
 they kept time to the noise of seventeen instru- 
 
 ments, on which as many skilful musicians wen; 
 playing in concert and producing sounds far 
 more melodious than the notes of the dancers. 
 We left them as we found them as happy as 
 mere animal exhilaration could make th-^. 
 who had forgot yesterday and thought not of to- 
 morrow. 
 
 The rice-fields being greatly infested with 
 birds, we were much amused with an ingenious 
 method which obtains here, of teaching the 
 pretty marauders to keep their distance. In the 
 middle of an extensive ground a small shed is 
 raised upon bamboos to the height of ab 
 or twelve feet. In this watch-tower a man takes 
 his station, holding in both of his hands the 
 ends of forty or fifty strings, which dhi 
 all directions to the extremity of tJic p> 
 where each is so fastened at the other end as 
 to l-a\e a slack length between. When then-- 
 fore the watcher perceives the birds about to 
 alight on any particular spot, ho has merely to 
 shake the line which runs tow-mis that i. 
 and the enemy an- instantU put to Hight. 
 
 Buffaloes are used throughout this island for 
 all kinds of hard labour to which their ri 
 can he applied. They appear to he \cr\ docile, 
 and little boys easily manage tin m. U hen tin- 
 day's work is over they are unyoked, and al- 
 lowed to swim in a pond or il 
 
 and reinvigorato their wean !: luxury 
 
 the poor animal- lo\e to indulge in tot: 
 tips of their muzzles, keeping their bodies com- 
 pletely under \\ater, except at those brcathing- 
 places, while the lads them- ;nirtho 
 
 cool element, continue to sit on their backs till 
 they are sufficiently refreshed, when ti 
 tiently submit to be guided home for tin- night. 
 
 .July :si. (Lord's day.) Mr. Bruckner, a Bap- 
 ti-4 Mi> ionary here, a! 8 ;erh of 
 
 . accompanied us to the Dutch 
 church. The congregation might amount to 
 thrVe hundred persons; the \ in the 
 
 middle of the church before the pulpit, in full 
 dress and without caps or bonnets, while i 
 occupied the galleries and the 
 them. After the sermon, two children were 
 baptized, and a couple of yoim_r peopl- 
 married. The lady came from I. 
 the gentleman from his, and mot in tVoi, 1 
 pulpit from which the ceremonial torn 
 read. The bridegroom and briii 
 other the right hand in presence of the whole 
 congregation, and then returned to the : 
 tive places whence they had risen. All these 
 services were conducted with appropri 
 lemnity. We afterwards repaired to Mr. Bruck- 
 ner's house, to attend a pra-. for the 
 universal diffusion of the gospel throughout this 
 island, and all the dark regions of the earth. 
 Mr. Bruckner formerly resided in this city, and 
 still continues occasionally to do tho wo: 
 evangelist in it; but ho lives principal!; 
 latega, a town about forty miles distant from 
 Samarang, whore, under many difficult: 
 discouragements, he occupies himself in visiting 
 the people from house to house, and, wherever 
 he ("in find an open door or an open 
 nouncing the message of salvation. Alas! it i> 
 
CHINESE TEMPLE AND PRIESTS ARRIVAL AT SOLO. 
 
 203 
 
 to be feared that as yet all hearts are closed 
 against it. Towards evening we accompanied 
 Mr. Medhurst into the Chinese camp (quarter), 
 to converse with such as would hearken respect- 
 ing the religion of Jesus. We met with ten or 
 twelve priests at their temple. These are dis- 
 tinguished hy having their heads entirely shaven, 
 otherwise they wear the ordinary dress of their 
 countrymen. Their superstition requires that 
 they should remain in celibacy as their brethren 
 do *iii their own land ; but here they take the 
 liberty to marry. They were very friendly to- 
 wards us, though they regarded the words of 
 eternal life but as the wind blowing where it 
 listeth, and passing them by, who neither knevv 
 nor cared whence it came or whither it went. 
 While we were taking a social refreshment of 
 tea with them, a kind of lizard (called, from the 
 sound it utters, geko) suddenly uttered a loud 
 noise from the roof of the temple, and presently 
 made its appearance among the timbers. The 
 priests were transported, and said that this was 
 a lucky omen, for we were good men, and the 
 god, being pleased with our visit to his temple, 
 had told the lizard to come and show itself as 
 his messenger. Would God that our coming 
 might have been an omen of destruction to that 
 and every other temple and idol of the kind ! 
 At nightfall the priests lighted up many lanterns 
 in the place; and sticks of sandal-wood, about 
 the thickness and length of > knitting-needle, 
 were fired before each of the several images that 
 formed the court of the presiding idol here. 
 
 A MIT. 3. After having inspected the various 
 public institutions, schools, hospitals, &c., at 
 Siunarang on the preceding days, we set out this 
 afternoon for Solo, a hundred miles oil', in a 
 south-east direction. This part of the island 
 has been much distracted lately, in consequence 
 of a dispute between the Dutch government 
 and a native prince who was disposed to resist 
 it* authority. We have been warned that the 
 road is still infested with banditti ; but, deem- 
 ing it our duty, as far as may be prudent, to see 
 for ourselves the extent and circumstances of 
 this vast uncultivated field of paganism and Ma- 
 hommcdan error, that we may judge how far 
 attempts may be made to introduce the gospel 
 anioiiir its multifarious population, we deter- 
 mined to proceed till we had stronger reasons 
 for fear, accompanied by an official guide, 
 whom the governor was so polite as to appoint 
 to MS. We' were lodged and entertained with 
 the most frank hospitality by Mas Reo Singuo- 
 rano, head man of the village of Boeilale, a 
 Mahommedan. Here we felt ourselves under 
 the protecting providence of God, on the de- 
 clivity of a volcano, great part of this village 
 being built upon lava, in the middle of a country 
 where civil war was raging military prepara- 
 tions were going on around robbers were 
 prowling about and the inhabitants were keep- 
 ing watch all night, to repel aggression upon 
 their families and their property. But we re- 
 mained in peace. The city of Djojokarta, the 
 second in .Java, is the centre of the present re- 
 hellion. The sultan is a child, and it is said 
 that his two guardians in his name have excited 
 
 commotion for the perfidious purpose of finding, 
 in the course of popular excess, some pretext 
 for dispossessing him of his rights, and seizing 
 the local government for themselves. 
 
 Our host, among other rarities in his posses- 
 sion, with peculiar pride and pleasure showed 
 us his criss, or family dagger, which he assured 
 us was three hundred years old. This, as well 
 as the points of his spears, arrows, and other 
 weapons of war, were poisoned so inveterately, 
 according to his account, that no length of time 
 could wear out their deadly virulence, killing 
 with a scratch almost as surely as with a deep 
 wound. He says that this pestiferous contagion 
 is communicated to them by the heads of ve- 
 nomous serpents, crushed and laid upon the 
 steel till they become putrid ; after which, by 
 some acid, the malignant matter is irremediably 
 fixed there. When the servants of this grandee 
 presented anything to him, it was upon their 
 bended knee, and with the most humiliating 
 deference. The distinctions of rank in Java 
 are rigidly observed. Sovereign princes, we 
 ai - e told, always speak to their subjects in the 
 same language, but they, according to their 
 situations in life, reply in different dialects ; 
 probably this may mean no more than such eti- 
 quette in speech as prevails between superiors 
 and inferiors in Europe. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX. 
 
 Arrival at Solo Description of that City Enormous 
 Cannon Emperor going to the Mosque Deputation 
 introduced to the Emperor Ceremonies ami Amuse- 
 nifiits in the I'.ilaot Sumptuous Repast " God save 
 the Kin;,'" KeflcHions SaniaiaUL,' A Cavern A 
 ( irotto Cheaugor Upas-tree Kt'luru to l?;itnvia Au 
 incident Mr. Deeriug Coffin-dealers lavam-M- New 
 T.'Mamrnt Chinese School Origin and Progress oCan 
 Insurrection I<lol Temple Mahommcdau Supor.-,ti- 
 tion Chinese Block-printing Rice-food Chinese Fes- 
 tival A peculiar Village The Javanese and their Mas- 
 tersEnglish highly esteemed Feeble EllVct.s of Rdi- 
 gion in Java Tradition respecting Budhu. 
 
 1825. AUG. 5. We reached Solo in safety, 
 guarded however from our last station by five 
 horse-soldiers, and accompanied by five travel- 
 lers who availed themselves of the escort. This 
 city stands in the midst of a fertile plain, and is 
 watered by a noble river flowing through it. 
 The population is reckoned at a hundred thou- 
 sand, of whom there are said to be not more 
 than five hundred Europeans, nearly all Dutch. 
 There is a large fort belonging to these in the 
 centre of the town, surrounded with a wet moat, 
 having four draw-bridges, and mounting fifty 
 cannon. 
 
 Adjacent to this is the residence of the per- 
 sonage who bears the title of emperor a very 
 equivocal one, while foreigners are masters of 
 the whole of his dominions, either by sovereignty 
 or influence. Many of the native chiefs we 
 have observed on horseback, -or in gorgeous 
 carriages, in the streets, with their trains of 
 servants on foot ; one carrying his lord's betel- 
 box, another his spitting-dish, another a superb 
 umbrella over his head his personal dignity 
 being signified by the colour of the latter, or the 
 metal of the former. 
 
204 
 
 ENORMOUS CANNON INTRODUCTION TO THE EMPEROR. 
 
 We found here Mr. William Stavers, brother 
 to Captain Stavers of the Tuscan, with whom 
 we came out from England. He was very 
 courteous to us, and conducted us to the impe- 
 rial palace, into the apartments of which, how- 
 ever, we were not permitted to enter, but were 
 allowed to drive round the courts. In the first 
 of these are two cannons of vast magnitude, the 
 one measuring eighteen feet, and having thirteen 
 inches and a half calibre ; the other is somewhat 
 less. They are of brass, with a Javanese in- 
 scription on each. Near these are two other 
 pieces of ordnance ; these are iron, and of equal 
 length, but smaller bore. Hard by are the dens 
 of three royal tigers, fine ferocious animals, de- 
 serving the name which they bear as the brute 
 representatives of eastern despots, bloodthirsting 
 and untameable. In another court a small 
 square roof or canopy projects from the adjacent 
 wall, and under it are two flat stones, on which 
 the emperor's throne is fixed on public occa- 
 sions. Near this is a railed platform, sufficiently 
 elevated to allow his majesty to witness occa- 
 sional fights of wild .beasts in the yard. In 
 another court is the greatest curiosity in the 
 empire, if it be not belied. This is the sacred 
 cannon, raised upon a stone pedestal, covered 
 with rich silk, and wreathed with perennial 
 garlands of flowers that never die, though it 
 cannot be said that they never fade, being arti- 
 ficial, and very pretty for the work of mortal 
 hands. This marvellous piece, on a certain 
 occasion, is said to have discharged itself, with- 
 out even being loaded, by which feat it killed :i 
 whole gang of traitors at once, who were twenty 
 miles oft'; but what is more extraordinary still, 
 if our memory and our information be correct, 
 the ball, when it had done this notable execu- 
 tiou, returned to its place in the gun. We are 
 not bound to reconcile the two ends of this 
 story, but no doubt the one is as true as the 
 other, though in palpable contradiction. 
 
 Aug. 5. AVe had an opportunity of seeing the 
 emperor on his way to the mosque. He rode 
 iu a magnificent carriage, preceded and followed 
 In a large retinue of servants and soldiers, with 
 flags flying and instruments of music sound- 
 ing. A younger brother alighted first from the 
 chariot, bearing a golden spitting-dish before 
 him. His majesty, who is a graceful youth, 
 about eighteen years of age, was dressed in loose 
 black robes, flowing down to his feet, v\hich 
 Mere without stockings, and sandalled. He 
 walked with much dignity, bearing a sword witli 
 a golden scabbard in his right hand. We were 
 not permitted to enter the mosque while the 
 royal worshippers were there, though we had 
 seen the interior yesterday. The place for ser- 
 vice is a hundred and twenty feet square, be- 
 sides a epacious veranda all round it ; and be- 
 yond this then- is a broad moat, in which devo- 
 tees M ash their feet before they tread the holy 
 place. We observed nothing particular within, 
 e\ci |>t an immense drum suspended, for what 
 purpose we did not learn. In the front court 
 of the palace, opposite to this mosque, criminals 
 are usually executed. .Murderers there Slitter 
 tin- same kind of death as they have inflicted, 
 
 and are shot, speared, or otherwise dispatched, 
 according to circumstances. 
 
 In the evening we were sumptuously enter- 
 tained by the resident Governor and General 
 de Kock. A large party of civil and military 
 gentlemen and their ladies were present, all of 
 whom appeared interested in the Missionary 
 intelligence which we gave them. 
 
 Aug. 6. Having expressed a desire to be in- 
 troduced to the emperor at the governor's table 
 last night, his Excellency procured us that ho- 
 nour this morning ; himself, General de Kock, 
 and other distinguished officers, all iu carriages, 
 accompanying us. Alighting at the first court 
 belonging to the royal residence, we walked 
 through that and two beyond, which were 
 thronged with thousands of spectators all kept 
 in perfect order by native soldiers on duty. In 
 the fourth and centre court, where the palace 
 stands, the military presented arms and let fall 
 their colours, in honour of the governor and the 
 general, under whose convoy we were admitted. 
 The people were all sitting cross-legged, having 
 their persons, in general, uncovered as low as 
 the chest. We found the emperor in this fourth 
 quadrangle enthroned on a stone platform, which 
 was raised four steps from the ground and sup- 
 ported by pillars, low and open on all sides. 
 As we approached the presence, his maj. 
 ii]) and advanced to the margin of the platform. 
 where he took the hands of General i!> 
 and the governor, and bowed graciously tt>th rc-t 
 of us who were in their train. General c! 
 as deputy governor of the whole Dutch ] 
 sions in .Ia\;i, \\as placed in a chair of state on 
 the emperor's right hand, and the resident local 
 governor in an ordinary one on his left. Three 
 rows of chairs were ranged on each Mde in front 
 of these, to accommodate the Dutch offic. 
 ourselves on the right, and the native courtiers 
 and nobility on the left. The emperor wore a 
 black vest, close at the neck and reaching to 
 the waist; below which a Javanese clot! 
 brown spotted with white, descended to the 
 mid-leg; his stockings were li^ht-coloured, and 
 his shoes black, with gold buckles. He had on 
 his head a conic-shaped hat without brim, of a 
 chocolate colour, and encircled with bands. Tin- 
 only extraneous ornaments about the royal per- 
 son were three brilliant stars of jewel-work 
 upon his breast. The throne was nearly four 
 feet square, covered with yellow silk and splen- 
 didly fringed and flowered with gold ; the legs 
 also appeared burnished gold ; and the height 
 convenient for sitting upright, which his V 
 did with great dignity, though there were neither 
 elbows nor back to rest upon. A sword in a 
 gold scabbard lay at his side, and a superb criss 
 hung in a belt behind him. When all had taken 
 their stations, the sovereign conversed affably 
 with his distinguished visitors, the general and 
 the governor, for some minutes. Tea, coffee, 
 sweetmeats, and wine, were then succ 
 handed round to the company. Whenever the 
 emperor drank he touched the glasses of the two 
 gentlemen on his ri^ht and left with his own, 
 and then looked graciously round upon the rest 
 of us as though he were pledging his guest*. 
 
DANCING GIRLS IMPERIAL ENTERTAINMENT. 
 
 20 5 
 
 On his left hand, at the distance of twenty paces, 
 the folding-doors of the royal apartments being 
 open, discovered great magnificence in the fur- 
 nishing and embellishments. 
 
 Out of these rooms presently issued a number 
 of dancing-girls, who, crouching down and work- 
 ing their way on their heels, in spite of the im- 
 pediments of their long dresses and awkward 
 attitude, seated themselves on a platform just on 
 the outside of the folding-doors, and over against 
 the emperor. Near them were placed a band of 
 Javanese musicians, and a multitude of singers. 
 On the emperorVright hand another band, also 
 Javanese, but with European instruments, ap- 
 peared. The girls were not more than fifteen 
 or sixteen years of age, sumptuously apparelled ; 
 those parts of their persons which were exposed 
 as the face, neck, arms, and legs were 
 stained of a delicate yellow tint by means of a 
 liquid prepared from sandal-wood and perfumes. 
 "When the musicians and singers began to play 
 and chant, the girls rose slowly from the ground, 
 making many graceful and significant motions 
 with their arms, hands, and heads. These were 
 at first very slow, never violent, and always 
 simultaneous, as though the tunes or the bur- 
 dens of the songs put one spirit into the whole 
 such a perfect consonance appeared in all 
 their gestures and attitudes, while their counte- 
 nances changed not for a moment their expres- 
 sion, or rather their passionless quietude of 
 aspect. In most of their gesticulations the girls 
 made use of a beautiful scarf, or zone, of which 
 both ends hung down to their feet; sometimes 
 unfolding these loose parts by slightly raising 
 the edges as with a touch ; then throwing the 
 one or the other over the shoulder or the arm, 
 or passing them, as veils, before the face. The 
 richly-ornamented cloth also that girt the loins, 
 had a long corner which fell to the ground, and 
 lay in a train behind. This, in the course of 
 the dance, they played with as fantastically as 
 with the scarf above, spurning it with the heel 
 or the toe, first to one side, then to the other. 
 i There did not seem to be any intentional inde- 
 corum in any of their movements, and certainly, 
 for the gentlest and easiest exhibition of limbs 
 and bodies significantly following the sounds of 
 instruments and voices, nothing could be less 
 offensive. While we were looking on, attend- 
 ants of the bands several times approached the 
 emperor's officers, as if to receive orders. These 
 servile creatures uniformly crawled, forward or 
 backward, crouching on the ground, as though 
 they were reptiles that feared to be spurned by 
 the feet of their superiors while communicating 
 with them. Both in advancing and retiring 
 they put the palms of their hands flat together, 
 ruisin^ them till the thumbs came over the 
 bridge of the nose. It was humbling to see 
 human nature so degraded. 
 
 After the lapse of half an hour, when we had 
 concluded that this was all the entertainment 
 to which we had been invited, the emperor 
 rose, and we were directed to follow. To our 
 surprise we were conducted into another open 
 court, like that which we had left, where a vast 
 range of tables, in the form of a capital T, ap- 
 
 peared, loaded with piles of all kinds of sub- 
 stantial meats, delicacies and fruits which the 
 country afforded, set out in European style. 
 The tables were so crowded with dishes that 
 there was not room for another, and even the 
 interstices were filled up with brilliant or aro- 
 matic flowers. The emperor took his seat 
 in the centre of the arrangement ; the general 
 and the resident governor, as before, on his 
 right and his left ; the rest of us, natives and 
 foreigners, occupying the remaining places. 
 The breakfast (so it was called) was indeed 
 sumptuous, and everything was conducted with 
 as much order as it might have been in the 
 palace of a European prince. Multitudes of 
 servants were in waiting. A band, detached 
 from the other musicians, during the feast, 
 played on their various instruments exhilarating 
 tunes, and among the rest, in compliment to us 
 (the Deputation from England), " God save the 
 King." All the while the girls were dancing in 
 the distance, the Javanese minstrels and singers 
 accompanying them as before. The emperor 
 honoured each of his guests with the oppor- 
 tunity of taking wine with him. Two or throe 
 toasts were also given, which were drank by all 
 the company. 
 
 The emperor again rose up, and we returned 
 after him to the dancing scene. The girls who 
 had hitherto been engaged, now retired, and 
 another company made their appearance, dressed 
 like the former. When they were all seated, an 
 old woman entered and laid down at the feet of 
 each an instrument resembling a bow, with an 
 arrow on the string, about two feet long, lac- 
 quered red and decorated with gold. The 
 dancers soon afterwards rose and went through 
 all the evolutions of the others, holding these 
 bows in their hands, which added exceedingly 
 to the beauty and picturesque effect of their 
 groups and attitudes. The wheels and pinions 
 of the most exquisite machinery could not more 
 exactly have performed the prescribed motions 
 nor, we may add, have betrayed less con- 
 ciousness of what they were doing, so far as 
 their looks might be regarded as the interpre- 
 ters of feelings or thoughts within them. The airs, 
 we were informed, and the songs to which the 
 dancers acted their parts, were national and my- 
 thological, referring to the wars and supersti- 
 tions of the country. In due time we rose to 
 depart, and, after wishing him a long and pros- 
 perous reign, were permitted to shake hands 
 with his Majesty. This token of friendship he 
 bestowed with apparently hearty good-will. 
 The whole deportment of the emperor was that 
 of unaffected dignity, ease, and condescension. 
 In this respect no potentate of Christendom 
 could have much excelled him. His nearest 
 relatives, ministers of state, and the principal 
 nobles of his court, were present. The whole 
 time that we remained in the palace was some- 
 thing less than three hours. Our curiosity had 
 been gratified, but our hearts were sad when 
 we contrasted this vain and heartless nui^nili- 
 cence with the simple dwellings and meek and 
 lowly manners of the patriarchal kings of Eimeo, 
 Huahine, and others in the islands of the west. 
 
206 
 
 A CAVERN CHINESE GROTTO CRUELTY AND SENSUALITY. 
 
 Oh, that as the natural sun comes in his course 
 to Java from Tahiti, the day-spring from on 
 high might thus visit the east from the regions 
 of the Pacific ! 
 
 Immediately on our return from the palace we 
 set out for Samarang, and were happy, travel- 
 ling tli rough a district so full of perils from in- 
 surrectionary parties, to reach it in safety at 
 midnight. 
 
 Aug. 8. About three miles from Samarang, 
 at a place called Batu, a small Chinese temple 
 stands close by the road-side, at the back of which 
 there is a cavern, communicating, it is said, 
 by a subterranean and submarine passage with 
 Canton ! In the floor are two wells, the depth 
 of which we had no means of ascertaining. The 
 cavern itself is eight feet high, of no great am- 
 plitude, and is entered by a door-way of wrought 
 masonry, on either side of which is a tablet 
 filled with Chinese characters. This place is 
 held in great veneration by this people, in 
 honour of their native country, and once a year 
 they keep a patriotic feast here, to commemo- 
 rate the homes and the graves of their fathers. 
 After visiting this temple and cavern ^ 
 newed our journey back to Batavia, hut<!id imt 
 reach the first resting-place, Pakalongan, till 
 two o'clock in the morning. Thence, on the 
 following day, we continued our route to Che- 
 ribon. 
 
 Aug. 10. While we were detained for want of 
 post horses, we walked out in the neighbour- 
 hood, and, among other objects of curiosity, 
 lighted upon a Chinese grotto, constructed about 
 twelve years ago by order of the sultan of Che- 
 ribon. This work, in various grotesque forms, 
 extends over more than an acre and a half of 
 ground, and is so fancifully diversified as to be- 
 wilder the senses and defy description. A per- 
 son wandering amon^r its mazes whore nil is 
 art of the most uncommon character, and utterly 
 unlike anything in nature might imagine him- 
 self walking in a dream, among such scenery 
 and images as never wore made visible to eyes 
 of men awake. The approach indicates nothing 
 extraordinary. The entrance is through an old 
 door, with its jambs and cornice curiously 
 carved. Thence, onward, is a passage, two 
 yards wide, between columns and statuary of 
 the roughest style, yet evidently wrought by no 
 mean hand. At the termination a]) pears a 
 brick gateway, on each side of which is placed 
 a most outrageously mis-shapen lion of porce- 
 lain ware. From this portal we passed into a 
 labyrinth of grottos mounts, descents, sub- 
 terranean ways, interior' rooms, unexpectedly 
 opening upon us ; and all these decorated with 
 Chinese temples, pagodas, figures of birds, 
 beasts, fishes, and monsters, which no naturalist 
 could classify, absolutely crowding the con- 
 tracted view on every side. Several pools of 
 water, here and there, like inlaid mirrors, re- 
 flecting the span-breadth of sky above, anil the 
 little circuit of rocks and images around, add 
 much to the enchantment of the whole. Be- 
 sides these, streams, cascades, and fountains, 
 are carried through every part. In one of the 
 recesses we were shewn the sultan's bedstead, 
 
 superbly carved and gilded. This was so 
 placed, that, by a singularly-ingenious con- 
 trivance, a current of water was conducted all 
 round the tester, which, at pleasure, might he 
 made to fall in transparent curtains of rain, 
 completely encircling the royal couch, for the 
 double purpose of keeping off the mosquitoes 
 and tempering the warm air to the delicious 
 coolness which, in this sultry climate, is the 
 consummation of bliss to reposing listless- 
 ness. " The Castle of Indolence," itself, vo- 
 luptuously as it has been furnished by the crea- 
 tive imagination of the first in rank of our de- 
 scriptive poets (Thomson,) was here fairly 
 outdone; the conception of sleeping i: 
 surrounded, as in a tent, by the drapery of lull- 
 ing, tinkling, glittering showers, of which the 
 moisture was carried away in grooved channels, 
 about the basement of the bedstead could 
 never have entered into the mind of a minstrel 
 born beyond the Tweed. Besides this c!: 
 there were other handsome apartments for the 
 accommodation of his Highness and his harem, 
 when they repair hither to anticipate the luxu- 
 ries of Mahomet's paradise. But, if th 
 a paradise, there was purgatory (if not a place 
 bearing a harder name) connected with it. 
 Several horrid dungeons and deep pit 
 pointed out to us ; and we passed n- 
 ful abyss, close by a narrow path, lil 
 which Bunyan describes, along the verge of 
 Apollyon's den, in the valley oft 
 death. Cruelt) and sensuality -ire <uch blood- 
 relations, that, in eastern count:, 
 they are rarely dissociated; the pleas- 
 palaces are heightened by the miseries s 
 in prisons under their roofs, and the 
 sultans and their concubines tested with the 
 -s of executions and tiger-fighti in their 
 court-} anK A. shocking proof of 
 produced in the current stor\. that 
 artist who contrived anil executed this Para- 
 dise of Dainty Derices," this " limtx) of vanity," 
 when' the work was finished had both i. 
 put out by order of the sultan, h: 
 that he might not make another like it for either 
 sovereign or subject. 
 
 We left Cheribon at four o'clock in th 
 noon, and reached Sumadang at two the next 
 morning. The road lay through a 
 country abounding with wild beasts. A few 
 days ago, as a carriage w:is passing a 
 tiu'er made a spring to attack one of the servants 
 behind, but the driver instinctively whipping 
 his horses at the moment when he saw it dart- 
 ing, as if it flew through the air, the ferocious 
 assailant missed its aim, and got entangled in 
 the wheel, from which it was probably 
 to escape as the company were to pursue their 
 way instead of pursuing their defeated assailant. 
 (lovernment gives ten dollars a head for the 
 destruction of tigers in this di>trict. "We 
 reached Cheinjor in good time in the evening, 
 and had a full night's rest (a luxury which we 
 have not lately enjoyed), at an excellent hotel, 
 kept by a Frenchman, who was himself gone to 
 the Avar, in which all resident Europe 
 whatever nation, are required to take a p- 
 
UPAS-TREECOFFIN DEALERS. 
 
 207 
 
 part when their services are called for. The 
 Chinese are not allowed this privilege of ex- 
 posing themselves to hardships, perils, and death 
 for their Dutch rulers, because, in a late insur- 
 rection, many of them joined the Javanese re- 
 bels. The Malays are also excluded, because they 
 are, proverbially, too treacherous to be trusted. 
 
 Aug. 12. On our journey at Baitenzorg, we 
 saw, in the garden of the governor, a small upas- 
 tree growing there. It is five feet high, and as 
 many years old, having a straight stem, with a 
 few twigs and leaves upon them at the top. 
 The leaves are very rough, serrated at the edge, 
 and of a deep-green colour. It is from the bark 
 of the roots (as we understand) that the famous 
 poison is extracted by a process known to the 
 natives only, and kept by them as an invaluable 
 secret of misrhievous knowledge. The tree 
 grows nowhere to perfection except towards 
 the eastern extremity of the island, where it 
 sometimes attains the height of a hundred and 
 fifty feet. It is unnecessary now to say, that its 
 M produces none of the blasting effects 
 formerly and fabulously attributed to it. We 
 were permitted to take, away several leaves from 
 this plant, which we plucked with our naked 
 with impunity. From the footstalks a 
 white milky sap exuded. At night we arrived 
 at liat.ivia, after a journey to and fro of nearly 
 nine hundred miles, in a crazy vehicle, along 
 roads admirably constructed for the most part 
 (.though in some places, on account of swamps 
 precipices, &<., very dangerous ) through beauti- 
 ful and frrtile regions, occasionally over vol- 
 canic emim-nees, not unfrequently traveisinu' 
 forests terrible with beasts of prey, or crossing 
 md mines on floating or suspended 
 : above nil, travelling unmolested through 
 a line of country in a state of guerilla-rebellion 
 i In- established 'government. We were 
 mn-fifully led, and -uid.-d, and kept through 
 all these. The Lord's name be praised! 
 
 Aug. 1.'). A Malay servant of the family with 
 which we are domesticated here came in, and 
 told his mistress that a misfortune had happened 
 to him lie had broken the top of an urn, but 
 \\asverysorry for it. He added, "Hang me 
 high, and throw me far: I beg your pardon 
 under tin- soles of my feet." His mistress told 
 him to go and fetch a rope, which he immedi- 
 ately did, and presented it to her, sjijinir, " M\ 
 must hang me herself nobody else shall 
 do it." After such submission it was impossible 
 to be angry with the fellow, who was forgiven. 
 Such apologies are characteristic both of the 
 simplicity and subtlety of this people. 
 
 .Mr. Deering, a pious and worthy resident, 
 who has bren a diligent volunteer-preacher of 
 righteousness among the motley population here, 
 died this morning of the fever now prevalent in 
 the city, and which cuts off lives in great num- 
 bers with very little warning. He was buried 
 in the evening, when Mr. Medhurst, our Mis- 
 sionary, to whom he has been endeared by much 
 kindness received at his hands, pronounced a 
 suitable funeral address, and offered up a prayer, 
 in'the presence of the kins-people and attendants 
 otherwise it is usual with the Dutch, in this 
 
 colony, to inter the corpses of their friends in 
 silence. The deceased was of the Baptist per- 
 suasion, and almost the only layman here who 
 w r as known to concern himself much about the 
 spiritual welfare of the inhabitants. 
 
 There are many coffin-makers in this great 
 city, where death so often keeps his court, and 
 slays not only his ordinary thousands, in the 
 course of the year, but at particular seasons strikes 
 down his tens of thousands, in the houses, in 
 the streets, in the fields ; walking with the pes- 
 tilence in darkness, and slaughtering with the 
 arrow that flieth at noon-day. We noticed par- 
 ticularly the Chinese coffins, which are not only 
 exposed for sale in every undertaker's work-shop, 
 but are frequently seen placed at the doors of 
 their own dwellings ; for a China-man likes 
 a good bargain of any kind, and will eagerly 
 buy a coffin for himself if he can get it cheap, 
 though he hopes to live forty years ; nor does 
 the sight of it annoy him with any feeling less 
 pleasant than the recollection that he has bis 
 money's worth in it. These coffins are not un- 
 expensive, being made both solid and spacious 
 out of four thick blocks of timber, the upper 
 one forming the lid, and projecting over the 
 edges, with a shoulder-piece ; the body of the 
 chest, thus compacted, is nearly cylindrical. The 
 burying-place of the Chinese belonging to Ba- 
 tavia, like one which we have elsewhere de- 
 scribed, is on the slope of a hill, where the gnu es 
 are disposed in the most exact order, as cells, 
 with their precious deposit sealed up in masonry, 
 or brick-work, with ornaments according to the 
 rank or riches of the deceased. A second corpse 
 is never laid in a sepulchre already occupied. 
 
 Aug. is. We visited a Chinese school, at a 
 neighbouring village, conducted by a teacher of 
 that nation, under the inspection of Mr. Med- 
 hurst. We found eight children in it. These 
 are taught to read and repeat by heart portions 
 of the Scriptures and religious tracts, which they 
 do very well, though in a peculiar chanting 
 tone of voice. 
 
 Intelligence arrived that the rebels in the east 
 had burnt down several of the post-establish- 
 ments on the road which we had lately travelled, 
 and committed other outrages. The present 
 rebellion against the Dutch government is said 
 to have originated from a dream which a young 
 sultan had, in which he was commanded not to 
 suffer any European to live in his dominions. 
 Nothing more calculated to make a superstitious 
 people desperate could have been invented than 
 such a revelation. It is, however, suspected to 
 be a villanous device of the prince's own guar- 
 dians to dispossess him of his dominions alto- 
 gether, and by violence or intrigue seize the 
 same for themselves. 
 
 Aug. 22. In a Chinese temple we saw five 
 great images larger than the human figure. They 
 stood in a recess, all in a row, with sandal-wood 
 burning before each. Much as they may be 
 reverenced, they have been sadly neglected ; the 
 gold leaf with which they were once completely 
 over-laid, hangs in rags like yellow cobwebs 
 about their squab limbs, enormous paunches, 
 and meaningless visages. In another chamber 
 
208 
 
 CHINESE TEMPLE CHINESE BLOCK-PRINTING. 
 
 are preserved many Javanese idols of stone, of 
 various shapes and sizes. These are placed upon 
 a table, with this inscription over them, " May 
 the gods of this country be propitious to our 
 crops'." The Chinese will worship any one, 
 or all of the divinities of other nations, as cor- 
 dially as the best of their own, if they fancy it 
 will serve their purpose. On going up stairs, we 
 observed in the apartment above the sanctuary, 
 that a space equal to that occupied by the idols 
 below was railed off, to prevent any profane 
 foot from walking over the heads of the gods, 
 which would be deemed atrocious sacrilege. 
 The windows of this upper room being open, 
 hundreds of swallows had built their nests under 
 the roofs ; the air was alive with their wings, 
 but noisome to us from the stench of their litter; 
 how it could be otherwise to the beautiful and 
 delicate birds themselves we cannot imagine ; it 
 is much easier to understand how the wooden 
 and stone divinities below (considering their 
 robust constitutions) should not be offended by 
 this or any fouler nuisance. Contiguous to this 
 temple is the aforementioned buxying-ground, 
 where once a year thousands of Chinese assem- 
 ble to bewail their dead, and hold a solemn feast 
 in memory of them. On these anniversaries 
 Mr. Medhurst attends to distribute tracts, disclos- 
 ing the folly of these senseless superstitions, and 
 explanatory of the pure and purifying doctrines 
 of the gospel of Jesus Christ, who himself to this 
 end both died, and rose, and revived, that he 
 might be Lord both of the dead and of the living. 
 The priests sometimes forbid the people to ac- 
 cept such dangerous publications, yet they 
 eagerly seek after them. It is the character 
 of this people so perfectly arc they disciplined 
 into inveterate adherence to the forms, and in- 
 difference to the realities of their rites at once 
 to laugh at the absurdities of their religion and 
 to practise them still. 
 
 In the evening hearing certain clamorous la- 
 mentations proceeding out of a house in our 
 neighbourhood, one of us went into it, and 
 found there about twenty men sitting on u mat, 
 cross-legged, with their hands clasped, their eyes 
 closed, and their bodies in a see-saw motion, up 
 and down, while they vociferated in chorus, in 
 a barbarous dialect of Arabic, " God is one," as 
 loud and as quick as they could. They \vriv 
 utterly regardless of anybody entering or going 
 out, continuing their Availing without intermis- 
 sion for more than an hour. On inquiry we 
 were told that they were Mahommedaus, who 
 were thus offering propitiatory prayers for their 
 deceased relatives, that, in case their lives had 
 not been over-righteous, all deficiencies might be 
 atoned for by these howlings of supererogation ; 
 the burden of which was, ' God is one." 
 
 We were much pleased with observing the 
 process of Chinese printing in Mr. Medhurst's 
 office. Nothing can be more simple or more 
 effective in its kind. All the characters are 
 cut in wood, of a fine but not very hard texture. 
 Each block is about an inch in thickness, and 
 the width of two pages. Being plained and 
 smoothed on the upper surface to receive tin- 
 characters, these are in the first place carefully 
 
 written upon paper, which is laid upon the wood 
 with the written side downward, and then pasted 
 over. Before the paste is dry the paper is peeled 
 off, when the characters are seen transferred to 
 the face of the block. The blank spaces are 
 then accurately cut away, by means of a sharp- 
 pointed tool, and the written parts remain in 
 alto-relievo, about the eighth of an inch high, like 
 figures and letters in metal types, or pictures in 
 what are called wood-cuts, among us. Mr. Med- 
 hurst employs two China-men in this work, to 
 whom he pays seven rupees (about twelve shil- 
 lings) for every thousand characters. Each man 
 will execute about three thousand of these in a 
 month, or a hundred a day on the average. The 
 blocks being finished are placed upon a table at 
 which the printer sits. The paper squared ready 
 to the proper size, is laid dry before him ; and 
 on a board at his right hand the ink, which is 
 little else than soot and water well tempered. 
 With a brush made of fine vegetable fibres, he 
 first blackens the characters ; then having nicely 
 with both hands spread the paper over the same, 
 with another flat soft brush, he rubs the sheet 
 down upon the face of the block. This when 
 taken off exhibits the perfected impression. A 
 clever printer will throw off several thousand 
 such copies in a day. The paper is. brought from 
 China ; it is manufactured from the bamboo, is 
 exceedingly thin, and never printed on both sides. 
 Aug. 28. A singular Chinese festival was 
 celebrated in the court of the great temple, 
 where nearly two thousand persons were assem- 
 bled, not only to witness the pageants and the 
 ceremonies, but to share the spoil wlii 
 divided among the spectators at the close. A 
 temporary shed had been raised on a platform, 
 five feet above the ground, in front of the tem- 
 ple. Here sat the chief priest, cross-! 
 upon a chair, with a table before him, appa- 
 rently reading most devoutly from an opeiu-d 
 volume upon it. Four inferior priests* 011 
 either hand of him, were occupied in the same 
 manner. Others were playing upon small 
 musical instruments ; while a crowd of c 
 fellows, having nothing to do as far as we could 
 discern, stood by them within the sacred erec- 
 tion. Two large flambeaux, and some sticks of 
 incense, were burning on the table before the 
 high-priest. On a smaller stage, about ten 
 yards opposite to these, in the middle of the 
 court, a slaughtered hog, shaved and gutted, 
 was fixed upright upon a tressel, and by it a 
 goat. Five yards beyond this, another platform, 
 eight feet high, by twelve long and f eight 
 broad, had been constructed, on which wen- 
 piled columns of cakes, pyramids of sweetmeats 
 and mounds of other dainties, four or five tVft 
 high. Among these, and in different parts of 
 the court-yard, were placed flags of iraudy 
 colours and gay devices, some of silk, others of 
 paper ; in the midst of which, overlooking all, 
 stood the representation of a lion, painted 
 green. Baskets of rice were also interspersed, 
 in large abundance, with the more luxurious 
 fare. When the chief priest had finished his 
 pretended devotions, he rose up, and gave a 
 signal, which was well understood by the inul- 
 
FEAST FOR DEPARTED SPIRITS DUTCH GOVERNMENT IN JAYA. 209 
 
 titude, for in an instant, on all hands, a rush 
 was made, and pig, goat, cakes, sweetmeats, 
 baskets of rice, and all kinds of dainties were 
 swept away. In the scramble, every one 
 seized what he could, and carried it off. The 
 flags, figures, &c., in like manner, disappeared, 
 and the court was empty in a few seconds, 
 thronged as it had been with people and 
 stocked with provisions enough to feast an 
 army. The temporary walls of the stages, form- 
 ing a considerable enclosure, were then sud- 
 denly set on fire, and we were in the area, sur- 
 rounded by the flames, which presently con- 
 sumed the slight fabrics, and with them 
 thousands of slips of paper, curiously folded up, 
 being (as we were informed) money, to enable 
 the souls of departed persons to pay their pas- 
 sage into another world ; for we found that this 
 inairnificencc of mummery had been instituted, 
 and was from time to time repeated, for the 
 benefit of those who had died without children, 
 and whose spirits, for want of affectionate rela- 
 tives to feed them with offerings of the kind 
 which we had seen, were suffering all the 
 misery of starvation. These ample supplies of 
 provisions were, therefore, collected for them, 
 and it was understood that, while the priests 
 were praying, and the victuals were exposed, 
 the spirits of these famished creatures wore 
 hovering in the air, and feasting deliciously on 
 the quintessence of everything eatable that had 
 been set before them. When the priests con- 
 cluded their necromantic spells of reading and 
 praying, then, it was supposed, the invisible 
 spirit of the meats, fruits, and delicacies had 
 been consumed by the invisible spirits of the 
 deceased ; and after that the people were al- 
 lowed to devour the gross substance. After 
 this preposterous ceremony the priests retired 
 into the temple, which they illuminated with 
 numerous candles, and fumigated with sandal- 
 wood within ; while, on the outside, they placed 
 two monstrous caricatures of lions, carrying on 
 their hacks two warriors more frightful than 
 themselves. These appeared to be engaged in 
 mortal conflict together ; but what was in- 
 tended by the symbols we could not learn. On 
 many poles, that were elevated round the build- 
 ing, were hoisted transparent lanterns, which, 
 l>\ means of strings beneath, were kept in per- 
 petual rotation. These were to light the 
 spirits on their way hack from the feast to 
 their homes beyond the grave. Though nothing 
 could be more puerile than the whole spectacle, 
 \ct it was affecting to set; multitudes of rational 
 briiiLrs so duped and given up to idolatry. 
 
 Aug. 31. We were much pleased with the 
 appearance of a small village, in this neigh- 
 bourhood, of which the inhabitants arc a dis- 
 tinct race, their houses remarkably neat, and 
 their grounds exceedingly fruitful. About a 
 century ago the Dutch government abolished 
 popery here, requiring that all Roman Catho- 
 lics should either quit their religion or the 
 colony. A number of Portuguese families, 
 naturalized to the soil through several genera- 
 tions, caring more for their country than their 
 faith, consented to profess themselves Protest- 
 
 ants, and forthwith determined to remain 
 where they were, and to perpetuate the lineage 
 of their ancestors by intermarrying only with 
 each other. To this agreement they have so 
 far at least adhered as to keep up their nation- 
 ality, but not their language, within the com- 
 pass of this small, sequestered spot. Though 
 of European origin and pure descent, their 
 complexions are darker even than those of the 
 Malays and Javanese. A few years ago their 
 number is said to have exceeded five hundred ; 
 but the recent ravages of cholera morbus have 
 reduced them to a hundred and thirty-five, 
 men, women, and children. They have a 
 decent chapel for public worship. 
 
 Sept. 1. The natives of Java retain little 
 liking for their Dutch masters of former periods, 
 who exercised such means of fraud and violence 
 to get possession of their island, and rule it ar- 
 bitrarily, as was the case, more or less, with all 
 European conquerors of continental or insular 
 India. The heads of the present Dutch govern- 
 ment, we must testify, deserve far higher 
 esteem than their predecessors ; adopting a 
 policy at once humane, just, and liberal, in the 
 administration of the most difficult kind of 
 sovereignty that over a country which, though 
 subjugated} has a number of native princes, 
 who, with their subjects, are reluctant vassals 
 to the foreigners. The French, during their 
 brief dominion, if existing recollections do 
 them justice, ruled, indeed, with a rod of iron. 
 But their rule was beneficial in some of its re- 
 sults, however rigorous and severe in its 
 general policy. The admirable lines of roads 
 which we lately travelled, and others in differ- 
 ent directions, were planned by the skill of 
 their engineers, and for the most part executed 
 under their reckless control. Their commander- 
 in-chief was a Buonaparte in Java, both for the 
 boldness of his projects and the despotic mea- 
 sures which he employed to accomplish them. 
 The roads were made by local requisitions upon 
 the natives and their princes. It has been 
 stated that eight thousand lives were sacrificed, 
 by one means or another, in the progress of 
 these Herculean labours for such they were 
 to feeble and indolent orientals. 
 
 The character of the English is cherished 
 with the highest respect by people of every de- 
 scription. Sir Stamford Raffles has left a name 
 and a memorial in Java which can never 
 perish, but must remain a pattern or a reproach 
 to all that follow him in the government, as 
 they shall laudably imitate or unwisely depart 
 from the principles on which he acted in Java. 
 
 Sept. 2. We accompanied Mr. Medhurst to 
 a village where he preaches once a week to a 
 few Mahommedans. About twenty men and 
 boys assembled ; none of the other sex are ever 
 allowed to attend. After the service the small 
 congregation, severally, gave us their salaams, 
 or greetings of peace, with profound obsequi- 
 ousness, putting the palms of their hands to- 
 gether and bowing down nearly to the earth. 
 On inquiry of Mr. Medhurst concerning the 
 actual and visible success of the Missions be- 
 longing to our Society in further India, he says 
 
210 FEEBLE EFFECTS OF RELIGION IN JAVA PASSAGE TO SINGAPORE. 
 
 that, whatever preparation may have been made 
 by preaching, schools, and Scripture-tracts, 
 there are, in the whole, not more than three or 
 four natives of whom it can be affirmed that 
 they make a credible profession of Christianity. 
 In this island, up to this time, it is doubtful 
 whether any abiding religious impression has 
 been made upon the heart of a Chinese or Ma- 
 hommedan. The frivolous superstitions of the 
 former, and the blind bigotry of the latter, are 
 alike opposed to the pure, sublime, and hum- 
 bling doctrines of the cross; while the depraved 
 I missions ;uul profligate lives of both classes ren- 
 j der the gospel-promises and gospel-threatenings 
 alike unwelcome to those who cleave to their 
 ungodliness and worldly lusts as the elements 
 of existence. Mr. Brockner's testimony is to 
 the same effect. It is one of the traditions of 
 the Budhists of Ceylon, that Brahma, having 
 created the world, retired again into himself, in 
 his heaven of quietism, and left his great work to 
 stand or to fall, as might happen. Seeva, there- 
 fore, took possession of it, and commenced his 
 inarch of devastation trampling on man and 
 be-ist, :md blasting tin- soil and its productions. 
 All these he would have soon utterly destroyed, 
 but for the repeated interventions of Veeshnoo, 
 becoming incarnate, as a saviour, under various 
 forms, to deliver the subjects of Seeva's fun . 
 The armies of the destroyer, in spite of these 
 interventions, still mightily grew and prevailed, 
 till, in process of time, the air was so full of 
 devils that there was not room to thrust a 
 needle between them. Budhu, then, in com- 
 passion to mankind, came down, like a shower 
 of gracious influence, upon this suffocating at- 
 mosphere, and so far thinned its pestilent 
 population that there was room for the sun to 
 shine upon the human inhabitants, and tin- 
 fresh air to blow upon them. Verily, this seems 
 to be a just figure of the state of Java, and pro- 
 bably of all the realms beyond the Ganges, at 
 this hour. There the firmament might indeed 
 be full of evil fiends, under the prince of tin- 
 power of the air, in person; while, from 
 heaven, neither clear light, vital warmth, nor 
 healing breath can reach the infatuated multi- 
 tudes beneath, that tread each other down 
 along the broad way of destruction. Oh, that 
 an influence, more gracious and irresistible than 
 that of Budhu, might descend, to scatter the 
 locust-clouds! Oh, that the Spirit might be 
 poured upon them, from on high, that the wil- 
 derness may be a fruitful field, and the fruitful 
 field counted as a forest ! 
 
 CHAPTER XL. 
 
 l':i>;-:r_'i- to Singapore Circumstances of thai 
 
 Iliuderance, to the (Jospt-1 I'rc) aration of Saj;o-The 
 Caiuphor-deaU-r Ludicrous Mistake of a China-lad 
 MisMon-gruund Undecipherable inscription \'o\ai- 
 to Macao Lord's Day A^n-aram-i' of tin- bland 
 Chilli's.- 1 'a 'joda Statistical Notices Idol-worshippers 
 C.-ive of I amoens Ancient Nunnery Ciipjded Feet 
 of r hint-so Ladies I'ortuguese Catholics Tea-planta- 
 
 1825. SEPT. 6. We went on board the brig Fly, 
 a small vessel, in which we had taken our pas- 
 sage to Singapore, and on the evening of the 
 
 following day found ourselves among the Thou- 
 sand Islands, as some hundreds of these freckles 
 on the face of the ocean are called that spot 
 the vicinity of the Straits of Sunda. We were 
 favourably borne through the perils of this 
 navigation in the course of the night. 
 
 Sept. 11. We have continued our course, 
 without interruption, leaving behind us, on the 
 right hand and on the left, numerous islands, in 
 the coves and creeks of which, under the sha- 
 dow of rocks and woods, pirates lurk in ambush, 
 and sally out, suddenly to seize their prey the 
 little vessels, passing to and fro along the 
 eastern coast of Sumatra. From the gripe of these 
 tigers of the deep we have been preserved. 
 
 Sept. 14. For the first time we caught a 
 glimpse of continental India ; the distant moun- 
 tains of the peninsula of Malacca appeared to 
 the north. They rose but as a little cloud, like 
 a man's hand, out of the sea; yet who, with a 
 knowledge of history w ho, with a heart to sym- 
 pathize in all that belongs to man, under every 
 form and condition of his existence in this world 
 who could look with indifference upon that 
 dim shadow of mighty realms b.-joinl, though 
 hardly distinguishable from the atmospheric 
 vapours around 1 These were but inui 
 creations, vanishing for ever; those were the 
 perpetual hills, which in that very shape had 
 been seen by .rer's eye since the day 
 
 when the first keel left a wake on th> 
 which we were then ploughing. Singapore, 
 also, hove in sight. This is rather a low island, 
 at the southern extremity of the penin-u: 
 seen from the vessel it appeared one f< . 
 verdure. When we were within a f < w miles of 
 shore there came on, suddenly, a tremendous 
 thunderstorm, accompanied by floods of rain, 
 which, in the sailor-' language, killed the wind. 
 The latter n-\i\ed, however, when tin- 
 had spent itself, and carried us against i 
 thwarting current into the habour, where, from 
 the captain's unanjuaintance with the 
 (and his crew, consisting of fourteen stupid 
 Malays, not worth two English sailors), the 
 ship was run aground, and several seas rolled 
 over her. Providentially a boat, with two i. 
 arrived in this crisis, and enabled us to laud in 
 safety, though not without being well drenched. 
 
 Sept. 15. The town of Singapore is qui; 
 and has grown up into importance within two 
 or three years. Many large warehouses ha\e 
 been built upon the banks of the river, and 
 much commerce appears already to be carried 
 on. There are about a hundred British resi- 
 dents. The Chinese are reckoned at eight thou- 
 sand ; they have erected decent houses and 
 opened well-stored shops in the streets. They 
 also act as middle-men, carrying on a miscella- 
 neous traffic with Borneo, Sumatra, and other 
 adjacent countries, by purchasing their commo- 
 dities of the merchants here. There are about 
 seven thousand Malays and Bengalese. The 
 military are almost solely composed of the lat- 
 ter class, from Hindostan. This island was 
 purchased of the two native rajahs, who previ- 
 ously possessed it, for a sum of money and an- 
 nuities on their respective lives. The popula- 
 
SAGO AND CAMPHOR VOYAGE TO MACAO. 
 
 211 
 
 tion is Malayan, and their religion Mahom- 
 medan. We were kindly welcomed by Mr. 
 Thomson, the Missionary of our Society here. 
 Mr. Milton, formerly in the same connexion, 
 also resides at Singapore, and acts, occasionally 
 at least, as chaplain to the colonists. 
 
 Sept. 16. Mr. Crawford, the governor, to 
 whom we were introduced, received us very po- 
 litely. Mr. Napier, a merchant, also showed 
 us the most acceptable hospitality during our 
 brief stay, previous to our embarkment for 
 China. We found many hinderances in the 
 way of the gospel here, and consulted with Mr. 
 Thomson on the best means of obviating them. 
 The fallow-land, or rather the desert, that never 
 was reclaimed since the confusion of tongues at 
 Babel sent the builders to the ends of the earth, 
 is so inveterately overrun with briars and bram- 
 bles, that it must take much labour, long suf- 
 fering, and many prayers, to break it up, before 
 even the seed can be cast in extensively, or the 
 return of the word be expected, with fruits meet 
 for repentance. In these eastern regions, it is 
 like sowing wholly by the highway-side, on the 
 rock or among thorns, and never upon good 
 ground, or by many waters. 
 
 Sept. 19. In the course of the day we came 
 to a place where a number of Chinese were pre- 
 paring sago for the English market. This pro- 
 duction is brought from Slum. It is the inspis- 
 sated juice extracted from the pith of a kind of 
 palm-tree (ci/ms ci/-< /uafisj, and in its raw state 
 resembles pipe-clay. When brought hither it 
 is broken into small pieces and passed through 
 fine sieves. It is then granulated, by being 
 1 > and fro through a long canvas bag, out 
 of which it comes rounded like millet-seed. 
 Being dried afterward* in wide and shallow iron 
 pans, it retains its shape, and is fit for market. 
 
 Sept. 20. At Mr. Napier's we saw a quan- 
 tity of camphor spread on a sheet of paper. It 
 was in minute grains, and had a dirty appear- 
 ance. Not knowing what it was, at first, we 
 lingered it, smelled at it, and one of us touched 
 tin- tip of the tongue with a little. The China- 
 man, who had brought it for sale, eyed us sus- 
 piciously, then contemptuously, and at length 
 anurrily, perceiving our untradesmanlike man- 
 handling the precious commodity. He 
 afterwards a.-kcd Mr. Napier "Who are those 
 men, that d<; not know better how to examine 
 my camphor '( They can't have come by that ship, 
 or they would not have been so ignorant. One 
 puts his hand among it, takes some up, puts it 
 to his nostrils, and then throws it down as if it 
 had been dirt. The other looks, smells, and 
 tastes it ; and he too throws it down as if it was 
 sand. Then they go away, turning their backs 
 on my line camphor as if it was good for no- 
 thing. Those men cannot understand what 
 camphor is, or they would not have abused my 
 good camphor so !" The poor China-man per- 
 fectly mistook the character of our ignorance, 
 which was that of sheer curiosity, while he 
 supposed that we were merchants, and had 
 been depreciating his article by not trying its 
 excellence in a more scientific manner. A Chi- 
 nese lad here, who had learned a little English, 
 
 the other day gave his master a pleasant speci- 
 men of his proficiency : " Master," said he, 
 " the dog have five childs ; three of them be 
 bulls, and two be cows." 
 
 Sept. 22. A plot of ground, situate about six 
 miles from the town, having been liberally pre- 
 sented by government, for the use of the mis- 
 sion here, we visited the same. The bounda- 
 ries include seven hills, and nearly the whole 
 has been cleared of the trees, by burning and 
 felling. About five and -thirty acres are in cul- 
 tivation, and planted with bananas, pepper, 
 coffee, and nutmegs. In a cottage upon this 
 ground live six China-men, who farm the land 
 for the missionary. The soil is light and sandy, 
 and such sites (the slopes of small declivities) 
 are preferred for the growth of pepper. 
 
 Sept. 24. On a point of land south of the 
 town and close upon the sea stands a rock, 
 about ten feet high, shaped like a horse-mount- 
 ing stone, of only two steps, the lower being 
 half the bulk of the upper. On one side the 
 surface has been planed, and bears a very an- 
 cient inscription, sculptured in square characters, 
 like the Hebrew, but belonging to an alphabet 
 of which not a letter can be made out appa- 
 rently from the action of the elements having 
 undecipherably defaced it. The lines are 
 straight and close together. The letters are on 
 the average three quarters of an inch square. 
 There is no tradition in existence concerning 
 this tablet, which, in every respect, seems 
 worthy of the temple of oblivion itself. 
 
 Sept. 2i>. Mr. Napier having kindly nego- 
 ciated with Captain Heaviside, of the Windsor, 
 China, ship, for our passage to Canton on board 
 of his noble vessel (nearly fourteen hundred 
 tons, and a hundred and forty men), we em- 
 barked, and found ourselves in such comfort- 
 able quarters as we have not occupied, at sea, 
 since we left England. 
 
 Oct. 14. After a pleasant voyage, without any 
 extraordinary incident by the way, this morn- 
 ing several fishing-boats were descried, indicat- 
 ing that land must be near. Before noon we 
 entered between the Lamas and the island call- 
 ed Ass's Ears, towards Macao, in the Gulf of 
 Canton ; but, being too late to reach the har- 
 bour this evening, we came to anchor, the bay 
 being bestudded with small islands and rocks, 
 which made navigation dangerous. 
 
 Oct. 15. Captain Heaviside took us to Macao 
 in his boat. The town is situated on a small 
 bay, which extends a mile from point to point. 
 The white-fronted houses, rising from the beach 
 upon a gentle slope, present a good appearance, 
 on the approach : a fort above, and several 
 churches among the inferior buildings, giving 
 the whole an air of European consequence. On 
 landing we proceeded to the residence of the 
 Society's agent, the celebrated translator of the 
 Scriptures into the Chinese tongue, the Rev. 
 Dr. Morrison. Here we experienced a serious 
 disappointment, he having departed some time 
 ago on a visit to England. Expecting our ar- 
 rival he had made arrangements for our recep- 
 tion in his house ; in which, notwithstanding 
 the inconveniences resulting from the absence 
 
 p2 
 
212 
 
 LORD'S DAY AT MACAO CHINESE PAGODA. 
 
 of the host, we preferred to make our abode, 
 rather than go to an hotel. Mr. Daniel, a resi- 
 dent, kindly assisted us in settling there. 
 
 Oct. 16. (Lord's day.) The Protestant chap- 
 lain being at Canton, whither the principal Eng- 
 lishmen resort during the season (which this is) 
 leaving their wives at Macao, because females 
 are not permitted to approach the confines of 
 the " celestial empire," there was no divine 
 service here which we could with propriety at- 
 tend. Indeed, we had no ground to expect to 
 find a native congregation here ; as we well 
 knew that the state of the country and the cir- 
 cumstances of the esteemed labourer in it, Dr. 
 Morrison, had not admitted of efforts directly 
 missionary. His honour has been to translate 
 the Holy Scriptures into the language of that 
 vast empire, and thus to lay a foundation on 
 which other builders may, hereafter, be ap- 
 pointed to build a stable and stately edifice. A 
 Chinese having, on the Lord's day, asked Mr. 
 Tyerman whether he should not take his linen 
 to be> washed! "Not to-day, because it i- the 
 Clnistian's Sabbath, or day of rest, consecrated 
 to the worship of God ;" was the answer. The 
 poor fellow expressed no surprise, but inquired, 
 with the most unaffected simplicity, whether 
 the other gentleman (Mr. Bennet) was like- 
 wise aSundav-man! These people set-in equalls 
 unimpassioned and unimpressible. Their <Hiiet- 
 ' ism of idolatry is mere apathy ; they do as they 
 like that is, just as their fathers did in mat- 
 ters of religion, and they leave all the world be- 
 side to do the same ; sa\ing to those \who diller 
 from them " Your way may be very good, for 
 anything W6 know to the contrary; ours is so 
 too ; follow yours, therefore, and we will follow 
 ours, after the steps of our fathers." 
 
 Oct. IT. \\ Y walked across the island, or 
 rather the peninsular part of Macao, to the 
 harrier-irate which separates the Kuropean from 
 the Chinese section of the soil; and where that 
 jealous people have built a great wall, from sea 
 to sea, on a narrow isthmus or sand-hank, to 
 keep the strangers within the limits prescribed 
 to them. This peninsular part is one mass of 
 granite, heaved into small eminences, and frac- 
 tured into crags and hollows, having a few acres 
 of soil in the centre, on which vegetables (prin- 
 cipally rice) are cultivated with the utmost care 
 by Chinese hushandmen. There are a few 
 clumps of trees on this spot, but its general 
 aspect is that of incorrigible sterility. The 
 summits of the hills are crowned either with 
 Portuguese churches or with forts. A little 
 earth may here and there be traced among the 
 crevices of the granite strata, by the miserable 
 phenomenon of short starved grass, struggling 
 here and there for existence, in obedience to a 
 law of nature which compels life, in one form 
 or another, to come forth wherever there is the 
 possibility of it being in any manner maintained. 
 As there are no carriage -roads, those who do 
 not walk must either be conveyed in sedans or 
 ride on horseback ; and paths for the conveni- 
 ence of the latter have been made in every 
 direction, over the uneven rock, where beasts 
 of burthen can travel. 
 
 On the Macao side of the barrier-wall and 
 isthmus stands a sumptuous Chinese pagoda, 
 consisting of several compartments. In each 
 of these are idols of many barbarous models, m 
 before some of which incense is continually 
 burning. In one of these sanctuaries an urn 
 containing warm tea is placed on a tabl 
 two saucers, for the use of passengers ; and 
 every one that chooses may turn in to drink 
 from the footpath near which this temple for 
 worship and refreshment has been built. Many 
 smaller temples, some not larger than an old 
 English arm-chair, appear by the way sides ; 
 all having iheir images, their incense, and their 
 devotees. 
 
 A prodigious population of Europeans (prin- 
 cipally Portuguese) and Chinese is cro\\.leil 
 within the prison bounds (for such they may 
 be called) of this city. According to a 
 taken three years ago, the former reached ihe 
 and th latter forty thousand. Here are thir- 
 teen Roman Catholic places of worship, and 
 one English chapel. The foreigners and natives 
 live on good terms together, each hi 
 by their own laws and amenable to t!. 
 specthe authorities. The English reside by 
 the sufferance of the Portuguese, and both anu 
 only toll-rated by the Chinese, who claim the 
 territorial right of the soil, but allow th 
 gers to occupy their district I it-will! 
 
 The climate is said to be very healthful, though 
 extremes of cold and heat ar lly ex- 
 
 perienced in the course of the same day, the 
 thermometer varying between SI" and th 
 ing point. Ice is sometimes formed the thick- 
 ness of a dollar. Yet there is not, we are told, 
 a house to be found with a fireplace in it. 
 
 The prospect from the church-hill, on the 
 west of the town the harbour, with a t!. 
 ships, praaus, and boats (Chinese and Euro- 
 pean), the seas be\ond, and numerous inlands 
 :-\ gay and attr.icti\e. In the distance, 
 Hie peninsula of separation (which tin- 
 eye may pass though the foot may not), we 
 could perceive many ChiniM- temples, 
 
 :id orchards, 
 
 occupying the low and level lands. Abo\e 
 these many naked rocks raised their < 
 precipices, like skeletons of lulls once clothed 
 with soil and verdure, which devasjatin_- 
 and the slow decay of atmospheric influence 
 had, in the lapse of ages, wholly worn or 
 iwa\, and left nothing but their fossil rudiments 
 behind. 
 
 Oct. 18. At a famous Chinese pagoda, situ- 
 ated among granite rocks on the sea-she 
 consisting of various- attached temples, with 
 places lor otlerinijB, all in the gaudiest st\lei,i' 
 nationally fantastic architecture, we met a man- 
 darin of high rank coming to worship, with a 
 large train of attendants. \\ c were not allowed 
 to follow him into the shrine, whither he went 
 to prostrate his magnificence before a deaf, 
 dumb, blind, lame, dead stock, which a man 
 who durst not have looked him in the fa 
 they met by the way, may have carved out of a 
 piece of wood, and, when he had finished his 
 work, gathered up the chips and mail. 
 
IDOL-WORSHIPPERS CAMOENS'S ADVENTURES IN THE EAST. 
 
 213 
 
 with them to boil his paddy-pot ! But we had 
 an opportunity of witnessing the antic rites ex- 
 hibited by another personage, of 110 mean rank, 
 at the same temple. Immediately upon his 
 arrival he put a white robe over all his other 
 clothing. AVhile he was doing this a man 
 brought a large wooden tray, on which were 
 laid two ribs of fat pork, a boiled fowl, and a 
 baked fish. These were placed upon an altar- 
 table before the idol, together with a teapot 
 and five porcelain cups. The worshipper first 
 poured water out. of the pot into each of the 
 cups. He then produced a bundle of incense- 
 sticks rolled in sacred papers, which, having 
 reverentially lighted, he fixed them one by one 
 there might be thirty in all before the idol, 
 on either hand of it, and in various niches both 
 within and on the outside of the building ; at 
 each act making certain grotesque, but grave, 
 gesticulations, as though an invisible divinity 
 dwelt in every hole and crevice where he could 
 stick a splinter of s:>udal-wood. After this pre- 
 paration, he went and kneeled down in front 
 of the altar where the provisions had been de- 
 posited. A servant on each side of him did the 
 same ; and all three repeatedly bowed their 
 bodies till they touched the ground with their 
 foreheads. This part of the service was accom- 
 panied by three loud strokes upon a bell with- 
 out, and as many upon a great drum within, by 
 a hoy in attendance. Some sacred scrolls of 
 paper, which had been carefully counted and 
 put into a kind of fireplace on the outside of 
 the temple wen- now set in flames, by a scroll 
 of the same hallowed character, which was 
 lighted at one of the incense-sticks. Finally a 
 p.n-cel .it' Mnall crackers was opened, ami the 
 train of them suspended before a hole in the 
 wall at the hack of the fireplace. One of these, 
 being ignited, communicated with the next to 
 it, and on went the blaze, the fume, and the ex- 
 plosion, till the whole had been, dissipated, and 
 left nothing but the stench behind. Here 
 ende I the ceremony. The water was poured 
 in the little cups into the teapot, the 
 tray and its savoury contents were carried away 
 again. We were informed that the spirit of the 
 trod had regaled itself on the spirit of the food, 
 and the latter, not being a whit the worse for 
 wear, was taken home by the devout owner for 
 his own use. This is genuine Chinese thrift. 
 All the while a company of gamblers were 
 seated on the floor, within the same sanctuary, 
 pla\ing at cards with quite as much devotion as 
 the idolater and his menials were playing at 
 religion. Better employed than either party 
 were a few lads, in the joy of youth, romping 
 and racketing at their own more commendable, 
 and not less intellectual, pastimes; though our 
 presence somewhat interrupted the indulgence 
 of their mirth, that they, might amuse, their 
 curiosity with looking at the strangers, and 
 wondering if even a Chinese child can wonder, 
 born and brought up as they are in dogged in- 
 difference to everything not Chinese wonder- 
 say, what two outlandish fellows could 
 be doing there, who were neither gambling nor 
 worshiping, nor playing, like themselves. 
 
 Oct. 19. Having heard much of a cave here 
 which bears the name of Camoens, the Portu- 
 guese Homer, we visited it this morning. The 
 gentleman's grounds in which it is situated are 
 curiously and tastefully laid out. The soil, 
 which is covered with fertility in every form 
 of tree, and plant, and flower, blooming into 
 beauty, or expanding into luxuriance, inns in 
 irregular lines and breadths between the masses 
 of bare granite which emboss the surface of 
 the earth, and in some places are pilecF 1 fear- 
 fully, but firmly, one upon another, beyond the 
 art or strength of man to have accomplished, 
 yet all to the eye that art could desire for the 
 adornment of the place. From various points, 
 the peninsula, the town, the shipping, and the 
 harbour, south-westward, are seen in a diversity 
 of agreeable aspects. On the south side of this 
 oriental elysium, overshadowed with stately 
 trees, is the cave of the poet, which is formed 
 by two vast rocks standing four feet apart, and 
 roofed with a third enormous mass transversely 
 laid. Between and underneath there is a pas- 
 sage, open at either end, but closed with a 
 column and arch of masonry at the further ex- 
 tremity. In a coved recess, upon a rough 
 pilaster against the side of the rock, is a bust of 
 him whose name, having been given to the 
 cavern, needed not to be inscribed under the 
 sculptured memorial of his features. These are 
 sufficiently recognised when it is remembered 
 that 
 
 " Here, nobly pensive, CAMOENS sat and thought." 
 And what he thought here three centuries ago 
 he has left the world to think upon so long a- 
 the language of his country shall be spoken or 
 understood. At Macao, Camoens held the sin- 
 gular office of commissary of the estates of the 
 defunct on the island. During the five years of 
 his residence here he Avrote a great portion of 
 his Lusiad, in which he celebrated the glory of 
 his countrymen, who, under Vasco de Gama, 
 discovered the south-east passage to India by 
 doubling the Cape of Good Hope. Here, too, 
 in his almost poetical occupation of standing 
 between the dead and the living, that justice 
 might be done to both, he acquired a fortune 
 which, though small, was equal to his wishes. 
 Unfortunately, however, on attempting to re- 
 turn to continental India in a vessel freighted 
 by himself, he suffered shipwreck in the Gulf 
 of Mecon, on the coast of Cochin China, and 
 there lost all that he had except his life and his 
 poem. The manuscript of the latter he held in 
 one hand, while he fought his way through the 
 waves with the other. Being cast friendless 
 and fortuneless on an unknown coast, he was 
 nevertheless humanely received and hospitably 
 treated by the natives, among whom he remain- 
 ed a considerable time before an opportunity 
 occurred for him to re-embark for Goa, the 
 metropolis of Portuguese India. This kindness 
 of his semi-barbarian friends he has gratefully 
 and gloriously celebrated in the tenth book of 
 the Lusiad; and among them he composed a 
 pathetic paraphrase of the 137th Psalm : "By 
 the rivers of Babylon, there we sat down; yen, 
 we wept when we remembered Zion," &c. 
 
2U 
 
 RUINS OF A NUNNERY ARRIVAL AT CANTON. 
 
 Upon the rock over the cave of Camoens, which 
 we have described, an elegant summer-house 
 has been erected, of an hexagonal form, and 
 commanding beautiful views from the different 
 sides, especially towards the barrier-gate, which 
 separates the China in miniature on one part of 
 the island, and the Portugal in miniature on 
 the other. 
 
 On our return we passed by the ruins of an 
 ancient nunnery, once of great extent, but the 
 whole of which was accidentally destroyed by fire, 
 two years ago, neither chapel nor cell being 
 spared in the unexpected conflagration. We 
 were not permitted to violate the sacred ground 
 within the exterior walls with our Protestant 
 feet ; but we could not help remarking how the 
 multitude of iron gratings (many of which were 
 collected in rusty heaps, and others yet filled 
 their respective places) indicated that no atten- 
 tion had been spared which could be necessary 
 either to keep in or to keep out. At the time 
 of the calamity there were few nuns in the 
 establishment; and it must soon have died a 
 natural death, with the last of its inmates, no 
 young persons having been permitted to join the 
 sisterhood for several years previously. One 
 person lost her life in the flames ; the rest, about 
 forty, were rescued, and now reside together in 
 a far humbler habitation. 
 
 We are pained, in walking the streets of this 
 town, to see the crippled condition of the 
 Chinese women of the higher order, whose feet 
 have been so stunted and cramped in their 
 growth as to be reduced to mere clubs. The 
 monstrous fashion of their country makes its 
 victims vain of this deformity ; the effect of 
 which they artificially exaggerate to the eye by 
 making the soles of their shoes (the outside of 
 | which are white, and the heels raised) so short 
 that the heel projects two inches backward 
 beyond the shoe, while, forward, the foot ter- 
 minates in an abrupt stump. And, to make 
 this outrage on nature more flagrant, thrir shoes 
 are lavishly ornamented. The gait of these 
 females is anything but graceful, though it must 
 be confessed that a Chinese lady might be as 
 certainly known by her step as the Venus of 
 Virgil. The difficulty and misery of walking 
 are much increased to them by the uneven 
 pavements, and many are obliged to avail them- 
 selves of the aid of an umbrella to support their 
 decrepitude as they totter and hobble along. 
 
 Macao is the see of a Roman Catholic bishop, 
 who has under him nearly a hundred officiating 
 priests. These have two schools, one for boys 
 I and another for girls, containing about a hundred 
 of each sex. Twenty-four of the hoys, we are in- 
 formed, are educating for Missionaries in China, 
 some of whom are natives of that empire. It is 
 remarkable that the Portuguese should still 
 maintain their ground at Pekin, and be able to 
 supply vacancies from hence, while Christians of 
 every other nation are said to be excluded. 
 
 Oct. 25. In the afternoon Mr. Daniel, to 
 whom we have been indebted for much kind 
 attention, accompanied us across the harbour to 
 the small island of Lapas. This, like Macao, is 
 a mass of rugged granite, intersected or spotted 
 
 with stripes aud patches of verdure and fertility. 
 Our object was to visit a tea-plantation, nearly 
 at the summit of one of the highest eminences, 
 about two miles inland. We found a dozen or 
 fourteen plants, growing upon a narrow plat- 
 form, cut along the side of a sandy hill such a 
 soil, in a dry situation, it is understood, being 
 most favourable to the cultivation of tea. The 
 shrubs were set about eight feet from each other ; 
 they were the size of an ordinary black currant- 
 bush, and more resembled that than any other 
 in England. These specimens, however, did 
 not seem to be in healthy condition. On the 
 same plant might be found leaves, blossoms, and 
 berries, but all of a puny appearance. In the 
 evening we returned. 
 
 CHAPTER XLI. 
 
 Deputation sail to Canton Chinese Dramatic Exhibition 
 M UMC l).-|iut,ition visit the Governor Description of 
 
 tin- Suburbs of Canton Hong Merchants City \Vall 
 Trade* and Shops ('M. K.-iriMrs A Tea- 
 
 ],:,., Populationof Canton British Factory Edible 
 HinU' Ne>ts Had Fond of tin- Poor Chop 
 Idol Wor>hip Ancient Temple- S.i.-r.-d Swine A 
 Hong Merchant Whampm The Three Forts Con-, 
 trivances on the River Si agniticent Entertainment 
 A Chinese Uri.l.-. 
 
 Nov. 2. We embarked onboard a Chi- 
 nese chop-boat for Canton. The vessel was 
 about sixty feet long, with an airy, comfortable 
 cabin in midships; forward of which \\ 
 ther inferior cabin, for the crew. At 
 out, a series of fantastic- ceremonies were ob- 
 served, like those which we witnessed of the 
 devotee, in the pagoda, the other day. A tray 
 loaded with provisions, lighted lanterns sticks 
 of burning incense, discharges of crackers, the 
 deafening din of gongs, and the thumping of 
 dull drums, were the ingredients of this idola- 
 trous rite, which was to render some god, whose 
 name we could not learn, propitious, and thereby 
 secure a good voyage. 
 
 iched Canton this morning. 
 The country, on each flank of the river, is ex- 
 ceedingly beautiful, fertile, and populous. The 
 lands are cultivated close to the channel of the 
 stream, from which numerous lateral canals are 
 cut, for the purpose of irrigation. Rice, sugar- 
 canes, bananas, &c., seemed to be the principal 
 products. M ,ii\ of the hills are crowned with 
 pagodas, consisting of seven or eight stories, 
 octagonally formed, having arched windows, 
 and the whole structure exactly proportioned. 
 Frequent villages were seen ; and our course 
 led us through two large towns, each being 
 built along both margins of the river. The 
 river itself was peopled in these places, not only 
 by the crews and ] passing 
 
 to and fro, on business or pleasure, but multi- 
 tudes of boats, moored side by side, alongshore, 
 were the regular abodes of families ; and these 
 were so busily occupied, that the population on 
 the water appeared to rival that on the land. 
 
 The river at Canton is about three-quarters 
 of a mile in breadth, on the bank of which, 
 where we disembarked, stands the Foreign 
 Factory, consisting of a long range of substan- 
 tial buildings, painted white or blue in front, 
 
CHINESE DRAMATIC EXHIBITION CHINESE SHOPS. 
 
 215 
 
 and bearing, on different parts, the British, 
 American, and Portuguese flags. 
 
 Mr. Davis, a gentleman of great respectability, 
 and who is well acquainted with the Chinese 
 language, made us welcome in this strange place. 
 In the course of the day we got our luggage on 
 shore, and established our quarters at an hotel 
 kept by an American, in the line of the factory- 
 buildings. 
 
 The first spectacle that detained us, in walk- 
 ing out, was entirely novel. A crowd of people 
 had been assembled to witness the performance 
 of a Chinese drama, of so heterogeneous a cast 
 that it comprised all the elements of tragedy, 
 comedy, farce, opera, and pantomime. The 
 stage was placed across the street, being about 
 three yards square, and two above the ground. 
 The scenery and furniture consisted of a large 
 screen, a table, and two chairs, gaudily deco- 
 rated with yellow silk. On either side there 
 was a door for entrances and exits. The en- 
 tertainment was open, and without cost, to 
 everybody who chose to waste time at it, in 
 broad daylight; and multitudes were gazing 
 Avith stupid or lively, enraptured or horrified, 
 interest upon the silly or mad pranks of the 
 actors. These were all men, though two ap- 
 peared in female characters; there must have 
 been five-and-twenty, or : thirty, of them, so 
 thronged and tumultuous, at times, was the 
 s well as gorgeous and glistening with 
 tinsel, gold-trimmings, and silk robes, in the 
 most fanciful costume of this fanciful people. 
 The performance consisted of recitals, conversa- 
 tions, songs, battles, murders, resurrections from 
 the dead, tumbling, kicking, screaming, scolding, 
 boxing, brawling, laughing, crying all that 
 man, in folly or in frenzy, can do or suffer, most 
 absurdly and extravagantly represented. The 
 nimbleness, dexterity, strength, and self-ma- 
 nagement of the performers, were surprising, in 
 the changes and chances of all kinds of calamities 
 to which they were every moment exposed. 
 Those who personated the women played the 
 men most valiantly. The chief heroine fought 
 a whole army at once, knocking down one, 
 falling upon another, tripping up the heels of a 
 third, and finally clearing the field of them all. 
 The exhibition was outrageously ludicrous, and 
 altogethatdifferent, in violent personal exertion, 
 from an^hing that we had hitherto seen in hot 
 climates, and such as we should previously have 
 imagined could not be endured. The Chinese 
 music is either contemptible, puerile, or horribly 
 barbarian. Behind the stage a fellow was em- 
 ployed in beating a stick, laid across his knees, 
 with two others in his hand. A second made a 
 miserable jingle with a pair of harsh cymbals. 
 A third was scraping as much dissonance as he 
 could out of a two-stringed fiddle. Occasion- 
 ally was heard a flourish of invisible trumpets, 
 in sound resembling those which children buy 
 at country fairs ; but, above all, an ill-toned 
 gong, from within the enclosure, made the ear 
 tingle, and the blood run chill, with its terrible 
 vibrations. The din of this instrument is abso- 
 lutely excruciating to unaccustomed nerves. 
 
 Nov. 6. We dined, by invitation, with Sir 
 
 James TJrmston, the governor. Many gentlemen 
 of the factory were at table, from whom, as well 
 as from his Excellency, we received the most 
 polite attentions. But the absence of Dr. Morri- 
 son is felt by us to be a great drawback from the 
 satisfaction which we derive from civilities and 
 acts of kindness shown us by official or mer- 
 cantile gentlemen, with whom we cannot confi- 
 dentially consult on the main objects of our 
 mission in these remote regions. Here, indeed, 
 a language is spoken into which the Scriptures 
 have been translated ; but, whatever . partial 
 effects may have been produced, we do not find 
 any public signs of evangelization among the 
 people. 
 
 Nov. 7. We walked through the greater part 
 of this remarkable city that is, through the 
 suburbs of Canton, for these, though very popu- 
 lous and extensive, are the only xinforbidden 
 ground, in the immense empire of China, to 
 foreigners Canton itself being walled and 
 guarded as jealously from their intrusion as 
 though it were the capital of the celestial empire. 
 The streets in this quarter are very narrow, 
 rarely exceeding seven feet in breadth, while 
 the lanes are little more than four. These are 
 generally paved with hewn granite. Every 
 house is a shop, or store, open on the whole 
 width of the front, which is seldom more than 
 twelve feet ; but the premises are frequently 
 two or three rooms deep. The roof is flat and 
 galleried round. Many of these shops are richly 
 and abundantly furnished with all kinds of com- 
 modities in demand, which are displayed in 
 the best manner. We entered several of the 
 warehouses of Hong merchants, which are of 
 prodigious extent many of them being little 
 less than a quarter of a mile from end to end, 
 though not more than twenty-five or thirty feet 
 wide. They are generally built in long lines, 
 terminating at the river, for the convenience of 
 importing or shipping off their goods. The 
 business done in these repositories is immense, 
 and the transit of stock very quick. One day 
 there may be thousands of chests of tea, and 
 the next thousands of bales of cotton, or pack- 
 ages of different articles. These Hong merchants 
 have the whole trade with foreigners in their 
 hands, and, being few in number, are supposed 
 to be exceedingly wealthy. 
 
 Coming to one of the seven gates of the en- 
 closed city of Canton, we were not allowed to 
 enter, of course, at the peril of a severe ham- 
 booing; but, looking through into the place, 
 the character of the streets, buildings, &c., seem- 
 ed much the same as those in the suburbs. 
 These gates are very old, and somewhat the 
 worse for wear. At one of them we calculated 
 the adjoining walls to be nearly ten yards in 
 thickness, and the same in height. There is 
 no moat, and the houses on both sides are 
 built close up to this rampart. 
 
 Separate trades are here carried on in sepa- 
 rate streets. Blacksmiths and whitesmiths oc- 
 cupy some; locksmiths others; carpenters, 
 silk-mercers, makers of gods, manufacturers of 
 sacred paper, &c. &c., class together. Most of 
 the streets are hung across with silk drapery, of 
 
216 
 
 BRITISH FACTORY BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF CANTON. 
 
 various fantastical and tawdry patterns, to at- 
 tract attention to the shops, in front of which, 
 from the eaves to the ground, are placed long 
 boards, fourteen or fifteen inches wide, on which 
 are written, in Chinese characters, the names 
 and descriptions of the commodities in which 
 the owners deal. 
 
 \\ i- went into many idol-temples of various 
 dimensions. In all were gilt images; and in 
 most we observed high circular wire-cages, 
 tapering to a point. These are safeguards for 
 confining the explosions of the crackers, which 
 are tired during the devotions of the people, 
 and which might otherwise endanger the tem- 
 ples and the dwellings around, where popula- 
 tion is so dense. 
 
 Beggars swarm. They arc generally blind, 
 or otherwise maimed, and quite inoffensive. 
 They go from shop to shop, singing and beating 
 lime with a bamboo-stick. This they continue 
 at each halting-place till a piece of money is 
 given them by every man upon the premise*. 
 IN one gives more or less than a small coin, the 
 thousandth part of the value of a dollar; nor 
 ii'^ed any one give that amount more than once 
 a day. Kadi beggar is confined to his appointed 
 walk, within a certain district, beyond which 
 he dare not trespass ; and to every district a 
 fair proportion of the whole mendicant frater- 
 nity is assigned. A certain provision is thus 
 made for these unfortunate people, and a poor- 
 rate collected by those who are to consume it, 
 without being a burden to be complained of by 
 the inhabitants, however moderate their own 
 circumstances may be. 
 
 Calling at a tea-house ou our return, we 
 found the public apartment furnished with about 
 fi\c-an<l-tv,rnty tables, at each of which 
 small parly of men taking refreshment. As 
 soon as we sat down a square wooden tray was 
 | set before us, covered with a great viriety of 
 sweetmeats, together with cakes, tarts, and 
 other confectionary dainties; also a teapot and 
 cups and saucers. Everything was exceedingly 
 | clean, and the different Articles for making a 
 slight repast were MTV palatable. The Chinese 
 arc particularly fond of sweetmeats and pre- 
 serves, and consequently excel in preparing 
 them. 
 
 "NVe cannot ascertain the exact population of 
 this city by any authorised standard of comput- 
 ing. Sir James Urmston, who has resided 
 tu i ;.ty years in China, calculates it at half a 
 million within the walls of Canton and through- 
 out the suburbs, exclusive of two hundred thou-. 
 sand more who live habitually on the water, up 
 and down the river. But though the population 
 is so vast, and the streets are alive with perpe- 
 tual streams of PMULT and returnin:: passengers, 
 scarcely a woman is to be seen amon^r the mul- 
 titudes, excepting here and there a blind beg- 
 gar, or occasionally one of the decrepit victims 
 of preposterous fashion, huh Wing on her two 
 club-feet, suffering the punishment of pride in 
 the indulgence of it, and exciting pity b\ that 
 which was devised to create admiration. But 
 no lady of respectability deems it becoming to 
 appear abroad. On the water, however, among 
 
 the amphibious population that are born, live, 
 and die in boats, the females come as much into 
 daylight as the other sex,, and have their feet 
 in the natural state. 
 
 The jealousy, or rather the policy, of the Chi- 
 nese government in reference to foreigners, de- 
 scends to the most minute particulars. None 
 but the subjects of the celestial empire (as they 
 style their human ant-hill, with its tens and 
 perhaps hundreds of millions of busy inhabit- 
 ants) arc permitted to possess any permanent 
 property m Canton, the only port to which 
 stranirers are admitted. Though what is called 
 the factory, and the attached warehouses, were 
 built by the British East India Company, and 
 other traders, an imperial edict was issued about 
 two years ago, ordering that the whole of the>e 
 immense and multifarious erections should be 
 paid for by the Hong merchants, and thence- 
 forward rented only by the occupants. To this 
 limited boundary Kuropean traffic is confined, 
 ngular but convenient species of mono- 
 poly, all the iromks which are imported must In- 
 purchased by eleven or twelve lion:: merchants, 
 who are not an incorporated company, though 
 recognised by government ; and through their 
 hands, in return, all the products of China which 
 are exported iniM pax. 
 
 Nov. 1). From the platform of the roof of Sir 
 James I : :.u>e, which i-- considerably 
 
 elevated, we obtained a bird's-eye view of tin- 
 city of Canton and the adjacent country. The 
 former is exceedingly crowded with building*, 
 and the latter neither picturesque nor fertile. 
 On the roofs of the houses, which are all flat 
 and tiled, and apparently touching each other, 
 scaffolds are erected for drying clothes and dy- 
 ing manufactured goods. Conveiiien 
 piling firewood and other lumber are : 
 ranged on the tops of the dwellings, that no 
 room may be lost below, where groin 
 precious that men are made to grow in 
 of which the " trees of life " are not suffered 
 to occupy more space than is barely sullieient 
 for thriving individually, and drawing each 
 other up in society. Above the monotony of 
 ordinary structures, rises one pagoda of great 
 height, while three others appear at some dis- 
 tance from the city. None of these seem to 
 have any connection with idol-temples, 
 ing quite apart from such, and being bill, it is 
 said, in honour of the illustrious dead. While 
 these monuments to mortal man are thus stately, 
 the temples dedicated to " the immortal 
 of China (so far as we have had opportunity of 
 observing, both here and in the islands) are 
 comparatively low, and without towers or domes 
 sufficiently elevated to give them any measure 
 of irrandeur. 
 
 The modes of living among the Chinese are, 
 of course, very different, according to the rank 
 and wealth of the people but the extremes of 
 luxury and misery are nowhere more ludi- 
 crously contrasted. Those who can afford to 
 purchase rare and expensive delicacies grudge 
 no cost for them, as is proved by the price paid 
 for edible birds' nests formed by a kind of 
 swallow (hirundo esculenta;, in vast clusters, 
 
BAD FOOD OF THE POOR CHOP-STICKS. 
 
 217 
 
 found in caves in the Nicobar and other islands 
 five thousand dollars being sometimes given 
 for a picul, weighing 133^ Ibs. In the streets, 
 multitudes of men are employed preparing these 
 for sale with a pair of tweezers plucking from 
 them every hair, or fibre of feather, or extra- 
 neous matter ; and, at the same time carefully 
 preserving the form of the nests, by pushing 
 through them very slender slips of bamboo. 
 Sharks' fins are highly prized, and when well 
 dried they fetch a great price. The beche-de- 
 mer (a horrid-looking black sea-slug, for- 
 merly described), brought from the Pacific 
 | Islands, is also exceedingly esteemed by Chinese 
 epicures. But, while the rich fare thus sump- 
 tuously, the mass of the poor subsist on the 
 veriest garbage. The heads of fowls, their en- 
 trails, feet, with every scrap of digestible animal 
 matter earth-worms, sea-reptiles of all kinds, 
 rats, and other vermin are greedily devoured. 
 We have noticed lots of black frogs, in half- 
 dozens, tied' together, exposed for sale in shallow 
 troughs of water. We have seen the hind 
 quarter of a horse, hung up in a butcher's shop, 
 with the recommendation of the whole leg at- 
 tached. A lodger in our hotel complains that, 
 his bedroom being over the kitchen, he is 
 grievously annoyed in a morning by the noises 
 of dogs and cats, which are slaughtering below 
 for the day's consumption but not at our table. 
 Not a bone nor a green leaf is ever seen in the 
 streets : some use or another is found for every- 
 thing that would be refuse elsewhere. Their 
 common cooking is effected by the simplest and 
 cheapest process. An earthen fireplace, four 
 or five inches wide at the bottom, and expand- 
 ing to seven or eight at the top, with an opening 
 at the side, is employed. In this, with a hand- 
 ful of fuel or charcoal, the tire is made, and a 
 large culinary vessel being placed above it, a 
 dinner for a family is soon prepared. These 
 people are patterns of economy. In eating they 
 employ what Europeans call a pair of chop- 
 sticks two pieces of wood or ivory, about the 
 thickness of a goose-quill, and nine or ten 
 inches long. For rice they hold the basin con- 
 taining it to the chin with one hand ; while, by 
 means of the chop-sticks, dexterously managed 
 between the fingers and thumb of the other, 
 they contrive to shovel every grain into their 
 mouth. Fish, meat, and vegetables they pick 
 up in small morsels with the ends of the sticks 
 (using them as we do a pair of tongs), and thus, 
 with infallible tact, convey all the food to its 
 proper receptacle. To us these substitutes for 
 knives and forks appeared the most inconve- 
 nient things that could have been invented, yet, 
 to those accustomed to use them, no tools can 
 be imagined more handy for the work. 
 
 Nov. 11. At sunset the Chinese light incense- 
 sticks and candles, and burn sacred papers be- 
 fore their household gods. In one of the shops, 
 opened in front to the view of passengers, this 
 evening we observed a young man at his ves- 
 pers. There were three small altars, at each of 
 which he performed the same ceremonies. First 
 he presented, with a reverential inclination of 
 the body, a lighted piece of sandal-wood and a 
 
 candle, which he placed in a recess appropriated 
 to hold them. Next he kneeled down and 
 bowed three times before the idol, touching the 
 floor with his forehead, while a boy, standing 
 behind, filled a cup with water from a teapot, 
 which the worshipper poured out, as a libation, 
 in three places, before the altar, again bowing 
 himself to the ground as many times as before. 
 This was done with the most imperturbable 
 gravity, or rather apathy, as an affair of course, 
 in which he neither courted nor shunned obser- 
 vation certainly not being one of those who 
 make long prayers, for a pretence, that they 
 may receive honour from men but going 
 through a mechanical duty, in which so many 
 genuflections, prostrations, manual acts, and 
 unmeaning looks, were absolutely necessary, 
 and alone necessary. Before the principal idol 
 there was set a meat-offering of about four 
 pounds' weight of pork, on the spirit of which 
 the divinity was presumed to feast, leaving the 
 olFal (the better part), the flesh itself, for the 
 use of the humble devotee. He then crowned 
 his pantomimic sacrifice by taking three bits of 
 gilt paper, curled into a peculiar form, one of 
 which he lighted at a sacred candle, and, laying 
 it across the other two, placed all three upon 
 the ground before the altar, and stood by, in 
 silence, till the whole were turned to tinder. 
 We may remark that, in a temple at this place, 
 and nowhere else on our travels in the east, we 
 have seen a woman at worship, lighting and 
 presenting sandal-wood incense-sticks at the 
 idol-altars, with the usual mummery of stolid 
 looks, antic postures, and low adorations. 
 Females, indeed, are not excluded from Chi- 
 nese temples as they are from v Mafiommedan 
 mosques ; but that habitual reserve, which pre- 
 vents them from appearing in the public streets, 
 restrains them from visiting the public sanctu- 
 aries. 
 
 Nov. 12. Accompanied by two mandarin- 
 soldiers we visited a large and very ancient 
 temple, on the isle of Honan, in the river 
 Tigris, as the Canton river is called. The priests 
 were very polite and accommodating to us. 
 They form a monk-like fraternity, under vows 
 of celibacy. Their garb is of coarse grey cloth, 
 their heads are either entirely shaven, or the 
 hair is cut very short, and without the vulgar 
 appendage of a long tail. They are a poor- 
 looking class of people, who, being of the reli- 
 gion of Budhu, scrupulously forbear to take 
 away animal life, and subsist wholly on vege- 
 tables. The buildings occupy several acres of 
 ground, and stand in a row, constituting one 
 multiform temple, to each of which there is a 
 separate ascent by steps. That in the centre is 
 the principal. In this are three gigantic statues, 
 twelve feet in height above the pedestals, and 
 entirely overlaid with gold. In another part a 
 female colossus is worshipped. All these struc- 
 tures are s'ubst aurally built, the roofs being pe- 
 culiarly compact, admirably wrought, and, on 
 the angles, ornamented with figures of dogs, 
 lions, tigers, serpents, dragons, and monsters 
 indescribable, that seem to be starting from the 
 tiles, and descending upon the heads of those 
 
is 
 
 SACRED SWINE THE THREE FORTS. 
 
 that walk below. Internally the apartments 
 are splendidly furnished with altars, lamps, 
 great drums, and great bells, but, above all, 
 with multitudes of carved and gilt idols, many 
 of them as large as life, but we cannot say much 
 resembling life in any other respect. In one 
 room we counted four-and-twenty of these 
 mockeries of humanity, by which man repre- 
 sents Deity. On either side of these temples 
 there is a row of very humble buildings, each 
 about twelve feet square, containing cells for 
 the accommodation of the priests; besides which 
 there are kitchens, dining-rooms, and other out- 
 houses, under different roofs. In one of the 
 
 I kitchens we were shown a boiler of prodigious 
 capacity, in which, during times of scarcity, 
 victuals are cooked by the priests for the poor. 
 Here is a wooden drum, formed of the hollowed 
 trunk of a tree, ten feet in length, with a low 
 narrow aperture on one side. When used to 
 summon the poor to their charitable repast, this 
 huge cylinder is struck with a wooden mallet, 
 jiiul gives out a very loud sound. On the south 
 of these temples is an extensive and well- 
 garden (as indeed it needs be) for the main- 
 tenance of the priests, whose number amounts 
 to a hundred. Hard by is their burying-ground, 
 in the centre of which stands a large square 
 stone sepulchre, for the preservation of those of 
 their order whose bodies are burnt after their 
 decease, in a furna'-e, upon the premises. 
 Others, however, who prefer to be laid in the 
 earth, and consumed by the worms, are de- 
 posited in separate graves round about this 
 common receptacle of the relics of the- 
 pass throuirh the lire. Adjacent to the garden 
 is a grove of flourishing trees, in which thou- 
 sands ofbirds build their nests and breed, with- 
 out fear of being robbed or murdered by the 
 votaries of Hudhu, and with the certainty of 
 
 I find ing good board, as well as lodging, in that 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 Ill-hind the cells of the priests, and opposite 
 the main entrance to the sacred oilific. 
 temples of another kind, dedicated to live gods; 
 namely, the Mies of twelve enormous hogs, so 
 fat that they are scarcely able to move, and 
 some of them, according to register, fifty, sixty, 
 and even seventy, years of age. These are kept 
 perfectly clean, and it cannot be denied that 
 they are as worshipful as any of the works of 
 men's hands that we have seen since vs e left 
 home. They are immortal, also, in the same 
 sense that the Lama of Thibet is, for, as surely as 
 he never dies, these are kept in life, and as soon 
 as one of this " swinish multitude" goes tin- 
 way of all flesh, another of the same species is 
 honoured with an apotheosis. 
 
 We are informed that Lord Amherst and his 
 suite were entertained in this i>land on their 
 embassy to the emperor of China ; and that in 
 one of these pagan temples (the idols having 
 been previously removed) divine service, to the 
 only true God, was performed by the chaplain 
 during the ambassador's residence here. 
 
 Nov. 14. Some friends conducted us through 
 a Hong merchant's warehouse, as lon^ 
 street, and stocked with goods enough to freight 
 
 many vessels. We were introduced to the pro- 
 prietor, a plain-looking man, whose wealth is 
 reported to exceed four million pounds sterling, 
 but who is too discreet to make any extra- 
 display of it, under so jealous and rapacious 
 a government. Once, when he was charged 
 with some slight offence, a fine, equal to a hun- 
 dred thousand pounds, was imposed upon him 
 by the mandarins ; but, when the case was 
 laid before his Imperial Highness, the penalty 
 was deemed disproportioned to the fault, and 
 reduced one-half. However, knowing the cha- 
 racter of the local authorities, and willing to 
 conciliate them, the prudent trade-man paid 
 them the fifty thousand pounds which had been 
 rebated at Pekin. 
 
 Nov. 15. We went, in a boat, with Captain 
 Thomas, of the John Scott, a country ship, 
 lying at Wliampoa, to see that vessel, intending 
 -sage in her to Singapore. Sin- is 
 about a thousand tons burthen, and ha> 
 lent accommodations. Whampoa is fifteen mil.-s 
 below Canton, whore English and other : 
 ships are accustomed to anchor, but above which 
 none are allowed to go. "NV, p .SMM! innu- 
 merable boats, barges, junks, and v< -<, Is of nil 
 kinds, on the river, and, among others, a Chinese 
 fleet, of between thirty and forty men-' 
 lying off the dock, at Ifonan Island. At a little 
 
 from that station are seve 
 . habited by women of loose m 
 who, not being permitted on shore, or in the 
 city, are here tolerated, if not prott 
 vernment. These water-dwellings I 
 
 as the occupants can afford, with paint- 
 ing, sculpture, gilding, flowers, lanterns, and 
 other ornaments. 
 
 bserved three forts by the way. The 
 in the name of Dutch Folly, built on a 
 small inland, under false pretences ; but some 
 cannon being landed betrayed the secret of the 
 adventurers, who were immediately dispossessed 
 of their new territory. A second fort is called 
 French Folly t for some reason, I 
 doubt, as that which stigmatized the : 
 though we have not learnt what it was. The 
 third is a Chinese fort, at the confl'v 
 rivers. Each of these streams may be the breadth 
 of the Thames below the metropolis, and the 
 low lands on their margin appear to be rich and 
 highly cultivated. The soil is principally allu- 
 vial, having been gained from the water, ami 
 liable to be overflowed by the occasional high 
 tides. 
 
 Along the banks are ingenious contrn 
 of great extent, for catching fish. Stakes being 
 driven into the ground, bags are suspended be- 
 tween them, into which the fishes are drawn by 
 the flowing, and left by the ebbing tide. But 
 what struck us as most singular, or rather most 
 amusing, was a duck-boat. The size was con- 
 siderable, with wide outside accommodations 
 for the ducks. Of these we saw hundreds, 
 swimming on the river, picking their feathers 
 on the banks, or busily gobbling in the rice- 
 fields adjacent. The birds are so trained that, 
 at the whistle, of their keeper, they all hasten 
 home from their feeding or resting-plac< 
 
MAGNIFICENT ENTERTAINMENT A CHINESE BRIDE. 
 
 219 
 
 on foot and half on wing, till they reach a hoard 
 laid upon the water, along which they waddle, 
 as orderly as soldiers of the line, into the hoat. 
 They are kept for their eggs, and to supply the 
 Canton market. Another hoat attracted our 
 attention a small, low one, painted white ; 
 about which the fishes, heing frightened hy the 
 agitation of the waters, and not understanding 
 trap, or probably not distinguishing the snare 
 by reason of its light colouring, leap into it, and 
 are thus caught in considerable numbers. 
 
 Nov. 26. In company with several gentlemen 
 of the factory, we dined with Houqua, an emi- 
 nent Hong merchant, at his house on the other 
 side of the water. He lives in Chinese mag- 
 nificence, and the entertainment was of the 
 most sumptuous kind. The whole house and 
 premises were brilliantly illuminated with lamps. 
 The decorations of the rooms, and the style of 
 the furniture, were splendid and curious, but 
 absolutely undescribable otherwise than in the 
 general terms that everything was according 
 to the perfection of Chinese taste. The dinner, 
 which lasted nearly four hours, consisted of be- 
 tween thirty and forty courses, including all the 
 luxuries of the clime and the season, served 
 upon China table-ware of the richest patterns. 
 To attempt a description here would be hope- 
 less, for everything was so thoroughly national, 
 that to be understood would require more know- 
 ledge of the manners of this singular people 
 than many of our countrymen possess, and cer- 
 tainly much more than we could have learned 
 without seeing, hearing, and tasting for our- 
 vrhr-;. Before each guest was placed a pair of 
 chop-sticks and a silver spoon, with a plate 
 resembling a saucer, and an embossed silver 
 cup to serve for a wine-glass. The first course 
 consisted of various sweetmeats, to which 
 every one helped himself from the dishes which 
 were placed down the middle of the table. 
 Presently the wine (prepared from rice, and not 
 unpleasant to the taste) was poured warm from 
 a silver vessel like a teapot into the wine-cups 
 "before us. In pledging healths this cup is held 
 between both hands ; the parties then, ex- 
 changing courteous looks and bows, drink it 
 off, and each turns the inside of the cup towards 
 the other, to show that the whole has been fairly 
 drunk, it being deemed a great incivility to leave 
 any liquor at the bottom. More substantial 
 provisions, in basins and tureens, were next set 
 upon the table, every one choosing for himself 
 from the nameless and bewildering diversity of 
 soups and made dishes, composed of fish, beef, 
 mutton, fowls, ducks, geese, quails, pigeons, 
 pigeons' eggs, turtle, &c. &c., all in a stewed 
 form, for the most part very palatable, and not 
 pungently seasoned. A salt-cellar, and a saucer 
 of soy, before each person, enabled him to 
 heighten the flavour of the food to his own 
 taste. Towards the conclusion, besides a second 
 course of sweetmeats, basins of boiled rice, quite 
 dry, were set before all the company, with cups 
 of tea ; the tea, as usual, being prepared in each 
 cup, with hot water poured upon the leaves, 
 and without either cream or sugar. The cloth 
 was then removed, and the table covered with 
 
 a profusion of the most delicious fruits. These 
 were accompanied by Madeira wine, which was 
 drunk, like every other beverage here, out of 
 cups of the most delicate and exquisitely beau- 
 tiful porcelain. 
 
 The greatest rarity, however, after this feast, 
 was the sight of a Chinese bride. The son of 
 our host having been married a few days before, 
 we were honoured (according to the usage of 
 the country during the honey-moon) with per- 
 mission to look at his wife, as she stood at the 
 door of her apartment, while we were passing 
 out. The lady was surrounded by several old 
 women, who held tapers and lamps above and 
 about her, that we might have a more complete 
 view of her figure and attire. She was a young 
 person (perhaps seventeen years of age), of 
 middle stature, with very agreeable features and 
 a light complexion, though she seemed to us to 
 have used paint. She wore a scarlet robe, 
 superbly trimmed with gold, which completely 
 covered her from the shoulders to the ground. 
 The sleeves were very full, and along the bottom 
 ran a beautiful fringe of small bells. Her head- 
 dress sparkled with jewels, and was most ele- 
 gantly beaded with rows of pearls, encircling it 
 it like a coronet ; from the front of which a 
 brilliant angular ornament hung over her fore- 
 head and between her eyebrows. She stood 
 in a modest and graceful attitude, having her 
 eyes fixed on the floor, though she occasionally 
 raised them, with a glance of timid curiosity, 
 towards the spectators. Her hands, joined 
 together, but folded in her robe, she lifted seve- 
 ral times towards her face, and then lowered 
 them very slowly. Her attendants, presuming 
 that the guests would be gratified with a peep 
 at that consummation of Chinese beauty, the 
 lady's feet, raised the hem of the mantle from 
 hers for a moment or tAVO. They were of the 
 most diminutive kind, and reduced to a mere 
 point at the toe. Her shoes, like the rest of 
 her bridal apparel, were scarlet, embroidered 
 with gold. In justice to the poor creature, 
 during this torturing exhibition (as we imagine 
 it must have been to her), her demeanour was 
 natural and becoming ; and once or twice some- 
 thing like half a smile, for an instant, showed 
 that she was not entirely unconscious of the ad- 
 miration which her appearance excited, nor 
 much dipleased by it. 
 
 CHAPTER XLII. 
 
 Another Hong Merchant's Hospitality Dancing Taking 
 leave of a Friend Marriage Procession Smugglers of 
 Opium Christmas Day Deputation return to Singa- 
 pore Clanship and Inhumanity of the Chinese De- 
 putation proceed to Malacca Description of that Town 
 Extraordinary Tree Pepper-planbitions Schools in 
 Malacca Chinese Fopperies Proficiency of Native 
 Scholars Foundation of a Chapel laid Tomb of Dr. 
 Milne Process of Extracting Toddy-Landenibs, Frogs, 
 and Alligators Arrival at Pinang Sabbath Kxereises 
 Fantastic Marriage Procession Popish Mission College 
 Singular Paintings A [deposed King The Great 
 Tree Monkeys and Birds- Sensitive Plant Dress and 
 Habitation* Of tin- Malays Personal Habits Musical 
 Cricket Ingenious Spider. 
 
 1825. Nov. 28. We dined with Chinqua, ano- 
 ther Hong merchant. All the English gentlemen 
 
220 
 
 DANCING CLANSHIP AND INHUMANITY OF THE CHINESE. 
 
 at Canton, with most of the captains and prin- 
 cipal officers of the ships at Whampoa, had been 
 invited, so that the company amounted to nearly 
 a hundred persons. The feast was more than 
 all that the heart of a Chinese could desire, for 
 it was in the English style, and therefore the 
 best that he could offer to his outlandish guests. 
 A sing-song, or drama, had been prepared in 
 front of the dinner-table, and a distinguished 
 company of actors, from Nanquin, performed 
 what to us was an unintelligible medley of dia- 
 logues, songs, feats of strength, tumbling, and 
 other muscular exercises, accompanied by the in- 
 cessant din of jarring, jingling, and discordant 
 music, which required Chinese ears to relish, 
 and which ours could with difficulty endure. 
 We retired at nine o'clock in the evening, but 
 the play and the feast were expected to con- 
 tinue till two or three the next morning. It is 
 singular that the Chinese have nathing among 
 them that resembles dancing, ancient, and nearly 
 universal, as this practice is among other nations, 
 savage and civilized. One reason may be the 
 jealous separation of the sexes, and the privacy 
 'in which the women are kept. Perhaps the 
 outrageous fashion of maiming the female foot 
 may have been an invention of the men to in- 
 capacitate their wives and daughters for this 
 amusement. We are told that there is not even 
 a word in the language of this people which 
 technically signifies dancing. 
 
 Dec. 4. Being prepared for our departure, wo 
 took leave of Sir James Urmston, the governor, 
 from whom we have experienced many acts of 
 kindness, and the gentlemen of the English 
 factory, to whom we also acknowledge ourselves 
 to have been greatly indebted during our stay 
 here, especially Mr. Majoribanks, Dr. Pearson, 
 Mr. Toon, Mr. Plowden, and others, whom, if 
 we name them not, we yet remember with gra- 
 titude and esteem. 
 
 Dec. 5. We went down the river to the ship 
 which is to convey us to Singapore (the James 
 Scott) ; but as she was not to sail till to-morrow, 
 we accompanied the first officer and Dr. Barnes 
 several miles up one of the lateral creeks. The 
 sugar-cane was growing in great luxuriance on 
 either side of the river. This being what the Chi- 
 nese call " a lucky day," we saw, alongshore, in 
 the course of our cruise from Canton toWhampoa, 
 four marriage processions, with large lanterns, 
 bands of barbarian music, and gorgeously-deco- 
 rated sedans for the bridegrooms and their brides. 
 The " lucky days" are specially marked in the 
 almanacs of China, like the red-letter ones in 
 ours; and thifc/ cautious people never venture 
 upon any important engagement without having 
 Mich earnest of success as these will all'ord. 
 Matrimony, of course, must be formed under the 
 best auspices ; and he would be a bold man who 
 durst contract it in the face of an unlucky day. 
 The musicians in the several processions were 
 all dressed in scarlet, which is the colour for 
 rejoicing, as white is for mourning. 
 
 On our subsequent way to the island of Lintin 
 we passed many merchant and other ships, which 
 we mention for the purpose of stating that 
 among these, at one station, we were assured that, 
 
 out of twelve, ten were smugglers of opium ; 
 which being contraband, the left-handed traders 
 in it have lately been so discreet in choosing 
 lucky days for sailing, as well as for landing their 
 cargoes, that of this drug, in spite of " the pre- 
 ventive service," quantities to the value of 
 between nine and ten millions of dollars have 
 been imported within twelve months. 
 
 Dec. 24. After a favourable voyage we reached 
 Singapore, and landed to spend Christmas. 
 
 Dec. 25. Mr. Tyerman preached from Luke 
 ii. 10, 11, on the birth of our Saviour, to about 
 thirty Europeans, merchants and military. Not to 
 one in a million of the uncounted population of 
 China, further India, and the beautiful islands of 
 the most magnificent archipelago in the world, 
 have the "good tidings of great joy, which shall 
 be unto all people," been declared with any 
 more effect than the whistling of the wind, or 
 the gurgling of the water, at the moment, pro- 
 duced on beings who have ears, but not to hear 
 the things that belong to their peace. Of by far 
 the greater bulk it must be confessed, in plain 
 truth, that they have never yet had any better 
 opportunity of hearing " that Christ Jesus came 
 into the world to save sinners" than their dead 
 ancestors in their graves, or the unborn of a 
 century to come. Yet the false prophet lias 
 kindreds, and tribes, and peoples, and tonirues, 
 throughout the east, the willing and resolute 
 dupes of his imposture. It is surprising what 
 multitudes of devotees make the pilgri 
 Mecca from the remotest r- ml the 
 
 Ganges. Not less than eight hundred of these 
 are said to pass annually by Singapore, in Ara- 
 bian vessels. They are represented to be proud, 
 supercilious, and infatuated heumd measure 
 with the notion of personal merit in under- 
 taking tliis achievement^ and acquired sanctity 
 when they have performed it. 
 
 The Chinese here are of different clans, or 
 tribes, of which the members attach themsehes 
 to their own respectively, and are bound In oath 
 to aid and promote each other's prosperity. 
 This they may do as long as all goes well with 
 them, but certain it is that, in many instance-, 
 they treat their nearest relatives with inhuman 
 neglect, and even cruelty, when they become 
 infirm and burthensome to them. We have 
 heard of cases in which families, deeming a sick 
 person incurable, have not only left him to 
 perish, but hastened his demise by stupihinir 
 poison, when they have carried him out of 
 doors, and laid him down on the ground to 
 die. We saw two fellows dragging a poor, 
 emaciated old man along, by the legs and should- 
 ers, in the most brutal manner, and then throw 
 him into a boat, like a powerless piece of lum- 
 ber, to be carried to another place out of the 
 way. While the Missionary-house here was 
 building, one of the workmen experienced a 
 stroke of the sun (coup de solcil}, and fell down 
 in the midst of his fellow-labourers. They 
 looked on for a moment, laughed, and said, 
 " There will be one less to eat rice !" He expired 
 within two days. 
 
 Jan. I, IS'20. Having shipped our 1 
 on board the Alexander, Captain Armstrong, 
 
DEPUTATION PROCEED TO MALACCA SCHOOLS IN MALACCA. 
 
 221 
 
 we embarked for Malacca. The ship had lost 
 her two last captains by death iu the course of 
 a few months ; the first on her voyage from 
 Singapore to Batavia, and the second on her re- 
 turn from Batavia to .Singapore, two or three 
 weeks ago ; both in the Straits of Bnuda, and 
 very near to the same place. The command 
 therefore devolved upon the second officer, now 
 Captain Armstrong, twenty-one years of age. 
 He showed us in the log-book of the ship the 
 following remarkable instance of the superstition 
 of seamen. When the late captain lay dead, 
 some Portuguese sailors were appointed to watch 
 the corpse by night. A black cat happening to 
 be on board, they all armed themselves with 
 handspikes, to defend their charge against the 
 " foul fiend," saying that if she should walk 
 over the coffin between sunset and sunrise, the 
 body Avould immediately rise up, when no power 
 on earth could ever make it lie down again. 
 They likewise placed a glass of brandy and 
 water iu the cabin where the captain had breathed 
 his last, shrewdly observing, that as the deceased 
 had always loved that kind of grog, perhaps his 
 spirit might be hovering about, tormented with 
 thirst, and if so, it would certainly be glad of 
 a draught of its favourite beverage. It would 
 seem to be much easier for the mass of mankind, 
 even among those who are called Christians, to 
 believe anything, rather than the truth, respect- 
 ing ";iu hereafter." 
 
 Jan. 1"). Without any extraordinary adven- 
 ture on our voyage along the peninsula, we 
 reached .Malacca, and immediately on landing 
 were welcomed by Messrs. Humphries and 
 
 Collie, who conducted us to the College House. 
 This town which has been in the hands of the 
 English since April, 1825, contains about thirty- 
 five thousand inhabitants Chinese, Malays, 
 Portuguese, and a few English. It is a poor 
 place, extending along the shore ; the houses 
 towards the centre are pretty compactly built 
 together, but those at the extremities mean and 
 straggling ; the old church-tower (a ruin) and 
 the lighthouse (built on the site of a dilapidated 
 Portuguese chapel) are the most conspicuous 
 objects, and the Missionary College is the best 
 building. The vicinity is marked by ranges of 
 low hills, with one conspicuous eminence, Mount 
 Mora. All these as far as^the eye can distinguish 
 are covered with wood. 
 
 Jan. 18. On an inland excursion, with Mr. 
 Humphries, to distribute religious tracts among 
 the Chinese, we bad an opportunity of seeing, 
 some extensive pepper-plantations, which are 
 cultivated entirely by these industrious people. 
 The plants, in rich luxuriance, support them- 
 selves by the boles of trees, or against posts fixed 
 in the ground, up which they are trained. They 
 grow to the height of seven or eight feet, much 
 like hops, throwing out, in profusion, their' clus- 
 ters of green and unripe fruit. Indeed, the latter 
 is gathered green, and, when dried in the sun, 
 becomes what is called black pepper. On some 
 of the bunches are found berries which are 
 covered with a thin red rind. These are kept 
 separate, and, this coloured coating being care- 
 fully rubbed oil', the kernel is ir/i/tv pepper. A 
 tenth part of the produce of these grounds is 
 paid by the owner for rent. 
 
 Jan. 19. Mr. Collie conducted us through the 
 schools, in Malacca, for Chinese children, under 
 the care of the Missionaries. In these, and a 
 few smaller ones in the country, they compute 
 about two hundred and forty scholars, besides 
 twenty-six who belong to the college. These 
 attend from six o'clock in the morning till eight 
 in the evening, including proper intervals for 
 meals. They all sleep at home with their fami- 
 lies. In the schools which we visited, the boys 
 were learning to read, and to get by heart cate- 
 
 School. 
 
 chisms and other religious lessons. A few of 
 their countrymen's books are used for particular 
 purposes, but none which contain anything con- 
 trary to the gospel. Their teachers are Chinese ; 
 yet, in none of the rooms,~excepting one, did 
 we perceive any trace of idolatry. 
 
 The '-nails, which we observed growing on 
 three of the fingers of one of the schoolmasters, 
 were of surprising length, the largest being not 
 less than six inches. They were all considerably 
 curved, like talons. We offered the man a 
 
222 
 
 PROFICIENCY OF NATIVE SCHOLARS SABBATH AT PINANG. 
 
 dollar a-piece for these loathsome excrescences, 
 but he was too proud of ornaments so precious 
 in his own sight to part with them for twenty 
 times their weight in silver. This is one of the 
 finical and foppish Chinese fashions, to show 
 that the persons thus disfigured do not live by a 
 menial occupation, but rank as gentlefolks. We 
 have been assured that women's feet are maimed 
 for the sake of the same vanity, as none but 
 ladies can afford to lose what Providence has 
 made indispensably necessary for the use of 
 those who are compelled to labour for their 
 subsistence. 
 
 Jan. 22. (Lord's day.) Mr. Tyerman, on the 
 invitation of Mr. Humphries, who acts as chap- 
 lain here, preached in the old Dutch chapel, 
 before a congregation of about seventy people, 
 English, Dutch, Chinese, and Malays. In the 
 afternoon a hundred and twelve Chinese scholars j 
 were catechised, in the lecture-room at the col- j 
 lege. They answered questions, and repeated 
 lessons, with mechanical accuracy. Some of I 
 these lads could recite the contents of a mode- 
 rate-sized volume, without mistaking a single 
 character no small achievement in Chinese 
 literature. In tin' evening several of them were 
 exercised in psalm and hymn singing, in their 
 own tongue ; when their performances were 
 quite as well as could have been expected. To 
 eight of the boys who understood English pretty 
 well MI- delivered a few words of suitable advice 
 and encouragement. All the children in these 
 schools are half-castes; the fathers beiiiir Chinese, 
 and the mothers Malays. They general! N 
 their mother tongue Malayan; but in the col- ! 
 lege they are required to employ the Chinese 
 only. 
 
 Several attempts have been made to open 
 schools here for girls, amoiiLT the Malays; hut 
 these ha\e hitherto heen inefl'ecthe, the parent-, 
 insisting that the Koran, and sundry hooks of 
 their own, to the exclusion of all others, should 
 be used ; terms to which no Christian teachers 
 could ever agree without themselves becoming 
 renegades. 
 
 Jan. 28. At the request of the Missionaries, 
 we laid the foundation-stone of a chapel (there 
 being none at present), for the henetit of tin: 
 Chinese and the Malays. Most of our country- 
 men at Malacca attended the ceremony, together 
 with a great concourse of the mixed native 
 population. Mr. Tyerman, in English, Mr 
 Humphries, in Malay, Mr. Collie, in ( 
 severally addressed the audience on the pur- 
 poses of the intended building. Someof the Ma- 
 hommedan Malays expressed much displeasure 
 at the idea that they should be thought to need 
 the instructions of British Missionaries ; while, 
 on the other hand, the idolatrous Chinese were 
 not a little chagrined that a Christian church 
 should be erected just opposite to their principal 
 temple. "We trust that this very cause of offence 
 will ultimately be the means of grace to both. 
 
 Jan. 30. In the Portuguese burying-ground 
 we saw the tomb of the Society's late excellent 
 Missionary, Dr. Milne. It is a plain oblong 
 sepulchral structure, arched and elevated about 
 four feet above the ground. On the headstone 
 
 are inscriptions relating to the death of his wife, 
 his child, and himself. All Missionaries who 
 die on this station will be entitled to interment 
 in the same humble mansion of mortality. 
 
 Feb. 4. We were shown the process of ex- 
 tracting toddy from the cocoa-nut tree. Just as 
 the young nuts are beginning to be formed, 
 they are cut off from the stalks on which they 
 grow, and a bamboo, that holds about half a 
 gallon, is attached to the wounded part, so as to 
 receive the sap which ffows from it, and AS Inch 
 would otherwise have nourished the fruit. This 
 vessel is emptied twice every day, before sunrise 
 and after sunset. One of these stems will yield 
 as much as a quart in twenty-four hours. The 
 liquor must be drunk immediately, or it will 
 soon ferment and turn sour. In taste and colour 
 it much resembles milk ami water ; s \\eet, but 
 slightly acid. Arrack, an intoxicating spirit, is 
 distilled from it. The fresh toddy is hawked 
 about in tin- .iniinu and evening. 
 
 Land-crabs abound here, in the low grounds, 
 where they burrow in the earth, and throw np 
 hillocks of such bulk that one of them would till 
 the hody uf a cart. There isafrog which is found 
 both in fresh and salt water. It is long-bodied, 
 like a lizard, having very promin> 
 runs over the surface with surprising celerity. 
 Alligators are numerous in the rivers, ami in 
 the sea at their continence. They are not very 
 audacious, but will generally make their 
 at the approach of a man ; yet they are prompt 
 enough to carry off any one whom the-, 
 at his c;tse, leaning on the edge of his canoe, 
 with the gunnel near the water. 
 
 1'eh. ;. We came to anchor this evening in 
 the harbour of Pinanu r , ha\ing left Mai I 
 tin- f,th in the barque Mahina, Captain Il<>u- 
 ard. (ieor-v Town, the metropolis of the island 
 (or rather the small group kno\\n by t!. 
 ral name of Pinang, or Prince of Wale-,'- i 
 near the main land of the Malay peninsula), 
 i. pon at least a square mile of ground, 
 A ell laid out in .ii:ht angles. 
 
 Theie is an air of superiority about it an l.n-- 
 lisli character, which we have not seen before 
 in the east. Many of the buildings are in good 
 
 I nor and the 
 
 principal officers are very delightful retreats, 
 adjacent to the town, having hi^h hills for their 
 back ground, and being surrounded by irardens 
 and plantations, of which nutmegs, full of fruit, 
 and other spices, are the ornamental 
 :.d shrubs. Malays and Chinese, a- 
 in this part of India, compose the bulk of the 
 population ; the former the drudges, the latter 
 the mechanics, tradesmen, and farmers of the 
 settlement. 
 
 Feb. 12. Being Lord's day, Mr. Bcighton, 
 the Missionary here, met his Malay cor. 
 tion. About seventy persons of both sexes 
 were present, one half of whom were adults, 
 the rest children under religious instruction. 
 The service A\;IS principally catechetical ; prayer 
 was offered, hymns were sung, and certain por- 
 tions of Scripture expounded. 
 
 We met a Malay marriage procession. The 
 bride, a girl apparently not more than nine 
 
224 
 
 MISSIONARY COLLEGE FOR CHINESE TEMPLE OF BUDHU. 
 
 years of age, was drawn by a buffalo in a cart, 
 witb a low white curtain carried round the 
 sides, but not high enough to hide her altoge- 
 ther. She was neatly dressed, and sat at the 
 hinder part of the carriage, in which, imme- 
 diately before her, a man was dancing and pos- 
 ture-making in the most ridiculous manner. 
 The bridegroom, a boy about twelve years old, 
 and gaudily dressed, came after, on a singular 
 kind of vehicle, richly bedizened. It was in 
 the form of a green dragon, with hideous head 
 :unl gaping jaws, and a tail of serpentine length. 
 In the hollow of this monster's body sat the 
 happy youth, witli several of his friends, under 
 :i tawdry canopy ; the whole being borne on 
 the shoulders of twenty men. Then followed 
 another cart, on which a huge drum was mount- 
 ed, and beaten with hearty good will by a lusty 
 fellow behind. A band of noisy musical instru- 
 ments accompanied the procession, with no 
 small rabble of spectators. 
 
 Feb. 15. AVe called at a Roman Catholic 
 college, in a sequestered spot called Pulo Tekos, 
 or the Island of Rats. Here a number of Chi- 
 nese youths are trained up for -Missionaries to 
 their parent country. Eighteen such, from fif- 
 teen to twenty M-ars of age, are at this time on 
 the foundation. We found them all reading 
 Latin. The padres informed us that tin ir 
 church has :}()0,000 good Catholics in China, 
 principally in the province of Fokien. The 
 priests there have to carry on their work, with 
 UTi-ut secrecy in propagating the faith. Yet 
 there have been put to death within the last tni 
 years two of them, for having entered too pre- 
 cipitately upon their duties, before the \ had 
 obtained leave from government. How they 
 obtain leave at all is a question not easily an- 
 swered ; hut it is quite certain that there is a 
 remnant of popery in the heart of China, which 
 neither emperor nor priest lias \et found a pre- 
 tence to cast out. The expense of that unique 
 mission is defrayed from Europe. 
 
 Nor far from Pulo Tekos stands a Siamese 
 temple, in a grove of cocoa-nut trees. Calling 
 upon the chief priest, a MIX old man, we found 
 him in a yellow silk dress, wound like a scarf 
 about his body, from the left shoulder, hanging 
 down on the right side, and braced with a sn-h 
 about the middle. His house was very dirty, 
 though quite a pantheon of his country's divi- 
 nities. Here were idols of all shapes (intended 
 to be human), and all si/es, from two inches to 
 two feet ; of silver, marble, wood, rind se\eral 
 of them richly gilt ; some sitting, some stand- 
 ing, like the Hindoo and Budhu images. He 
 afterwards courteously accompanied us to the 
 temple, himself taking the lead, as we ap- 
 proached under a covered way to the house of 
 the great idol, before which, the instant when 
 he hail opened the door, he threw himself pro- 
 strate. As we entered he rose up, and, hasten- 
 ing to a great bell which was suspended on one 
 side of the pathway, he gave it a smart blow with 
 the clapper; then went to another bell on the 
 contrary side, and did the same to prepare his 
 god, we presume, for the reception of the stran- 
 gers who were come to visit him. The image 
 
 was somewhat larger than life, gilt all over, cross- 
 legged, and in a sitting posture, the usual attitude 
 of Budhu. A net was suspended over the head, 
 which hid the temples. The sanctuary was not 
 more than six feet square ; and within it were 
 contrivances for lamps, and urns for incense- 
 sticks. The door could scarcely be opened wide 
 enough to admit a full-grown person. Beyond 
 this, within another enclosure, stands an ele- 
 gant minaret, on a square basement, of which 
 each side measures fifteen feet. This structure 
 consists of six steps, or stories, gracefully dimi- 
 nishing upward. On the topmost of these 
 stands a column thirty feet high, most curiously 
 and lavishly ornamented, especially towards the 
 capital, about which a multitude of bells are 
 suspended. A small iron rod, supporting a 
 vane, crowns the whole. 
 
 Near these edifices are several grave 
 monuments over them, manifesting much reve- 
 rence for the dead, with equal good taste ami 
 good feeling in the living. In a building 
 only a few feet above the level of the ground, 
 and open at the sides, are hung two pictures, 
 from seven to eight feet long by three broad. 
 One of these, portraying a future state of hap- 
 piness, has certainly no attractions either for 
 this world or the next. Several ill-drawn figures 
 are all grouped in the same attitude, " when* 
 fixed in dumb stupidity they stare." The other, 
 which exhibits the pains 'of a heathen hell, 
 makes amends for the neutral lint of the former, 
 and almost compels the spectators to exclaim, 
 " O horrible horrible! most horri: 
 nant women (adulteresses) are n ; 
 suffering the most unheard-of tortures. A liar 
 is stretched upon his back, while a Mend is tear- 
 ing out his tongue. One wretch attempts to 
 escape through a hole in the wall, but r 
 fellow on the other side, who drives him back 
 with a ponderous maul. A cauldron filled with 
 human skulls is placed upon u lire romp" 
 human bodies, from every limb of which flames 
 are bursting forth. These are but samples of 
 the infernal diversities of tormei.' 
 excruciating, which are crowded in detail upon 
 the dreadful canvass the inventions ot 
 Siamese Dante, equalling, at least in atrorit\, 
 the sternest fictions of the Italian ; 
 
 Feb. IS. .Mr. Beighton introduced us to his 
 Maje-t\ the King of Queda, who li\. 
 door to him. Queda is a considerable pro\ince 
 of the peninsul'i of .Malacca, where tbi< petty 
 sovereign reigned, as a vassal of the 1\ 
 Siam, till the latter expelled him from his throne 
 about three years ago, for neglecting to pay the 
 customary tribute. Seeking refuge under tin- 
 British government at 1'inang, he has been hos- 
 pitably treated, and a pension of 500 dollars a 
 month settled on him. He received us with 
 great condescension ; and after we had taken 
 coffee with him, to do us a kindness, as he ima- 
 gined, his dancers were ordered to be brought 
 in for our entertainment. i three 
 
 little girls, eight or nine years old, who. with 
 no extraordinary grace or science, exhibited a 
 variety of gestures and attitudes, sitting, stand- 
 ing, and moving, which were accompanied by 
 
THE GREAT TREE PERSONAL HABITS OF THE MALAYS. 
 
 225 
 
 instrumental music, resembling that of Java, and 
 the voices, behind a screen, of other females. 
 His Majesty keeps up sufficient state to make 
 a* ^affectation of it contemptible. The palace 
 (as a v oyal dwelling must be called) is a kind 
 of hareiv; all his household (we are informed) 
 being females, and in number nearly two hun- 
 dred. The ex-king was dressed in ordinary 
 Malay habiliments, and there was nothing in 
 his personal appearance that indicated the pride 
 and fierceness of an eastern despot. A guard 
 of soldiers is allowed him, who attend at the 
 gate of his residence. 
 
 Feb. 22. Crossing the straits of Pinang, where 
 they are about six miles broad, we landed on 
 that part of the peninsula which is called Queda, 
 a section of which, thirty miles long and three 
 in depth, belongs to the English, having been 
 purchased of the reigning prince in 1780, at the 
 time when Pinang was obtained. Captain 
 Low, who has the command of this settlement, 
 has under him a few Sepoys (native soldiers), 
 and a hundred and twenty convicts, who are 
 employed in making roads. The population, 
 consisting of Chinese, Malays, and Bugis, is es- 
 timated at 16,000. This shred of coast is very- 
 flat, rising little above the level of the sea, but 
 bounded far inland with mountains of consi- 
 derable elevation. The whole was one wilder- 
 ness of straggling trees and rank underwood, 
 the haunt of reptiles and wild beasts, till the 
 settlers cleared a few habitable places, which 
 they are gradually enlarging by carrying fire 
 and sword, as it were the axe and the flame 
 through the jungle. 
 
 Feb. 24. Eight mites south of George Town 
 <rro\vs the setomian, or great tree (as it is 
 worthily styled), which attracts the curiosity of 
 all strangers, and is the pride of the natives. 
 It is, beyond comparison, the most beautiful 
 object of the kind which we have yet seen in 
 all our travels. This paragon stands on a steep 
 declivity, facing the east. Five feet from the 
 ground the bole measures ten yards in circum- 
 ference, and thence, gracefully tapering, ascends 
 to the height of nearly a hundred and twenty 
 ftH't, before it sends forth branches. Beyond 
 that point, several large ones diverge in various 
 directions, and form a head to the further height 
 of forty feet, not very broad, but towering, 
 under a diadem of verdure, far above all the 
 rank and file of the forest. The stem is per- 
 fectly straight, and as shapely as the shaft of a 
 Corinthian column. From the bark, when 
 punctured, exudes a white gum, which dries to 
 the consistency of Indian rubber. 
 
 On our return we observed several monkeys 
 leaping about from tree to tree, as though they 
 had the power of flight, without wings, through 
 the air so free and unfearing they seemed to 
 our unaccustomed eyes. By the way-side, how- 
 ever, were sundry traps, set by man, the com- 
 mon enemy of all his fellow-animals, to tempt 
 these nimble denizens of the woods to risk 
 their harlequin liberty for a paltry bait of fruit. 
 To guard against monkeys and serpents in these 
 regions, some birds suspend their nests, like 
 purses, from the extremities of small branches. 
 
 These, which are exquisitely wrought of grass, 
 have the entrance at the bottom, through a long 
 tube-like, or bottle neck; on one side of the 
 interior is the depository for the eggs. They 
 may be literally called castles in the air. Those 
 which we took belonged to the tailor-bird (nw- 
 tacilla sutoria'), and were cunningly hung on a 
 tree, armed at all points with sharp prickles ; 
 the politic little builder choosing that in prefer- 
 ence to others, as affording her brood the best 
 security from monkeys, who were not very likely 
 to gambol in such a neighbourhood. 
 
 Feb. 27. The Malays, here and elsewhere, 
 build their houses, or rather hovels, two or three 
 feet above the ground, over brooks, water- 
 courses, or swamps, by preference, for the sake 
 of coolness. These are constructed of bam- 
 boos, with open floors and thatched roofs ; sel- 
 dom having windows, and being entered by 
 steps of boards or sticks. Within there is a 
 partition, forming a day and a night room ; and 
 on the floor those who can afford such a luxury 
 spread a mat. On this they usually sit cross- 
 legged, though here and there a chair or a bench 
 may be found, as an article extraordinary among 
 their scanty domestic furniture. Living almost 
 entirely upon rice, a pot or a pan, with a fire- 
 frame, are all their cooking requisites. Both 
 sexes wear a length of cotton cloth, doubled, 
 and sewed together at the ends like a towel on 
 a roller. This they wrap twice round their 
 loins, and, when long enough, throw one end of 
 it over their shoulders. The men occasionally 
 wear short drawers, a jacket, and a handker- 
 chief, folded like a turban, round their heads ; 
 but this is " full dress ;" necessity with most, 
 and choice with many, causing them to make 
 much less serve. The women generally cover 
 the upper part of their persons with a loose 
 frock, and, if they are wealthy enough to pur- 
 chase a shawl of any kind, they fasten a key, or 
 some email matter, to the lower corner, and 
 carry it over one shoulder. Few of either sex 
 use ornaments, probably because they are too 
 poor to afford such superfluities. The women's 
 hair is worn indifferently, either in a knob at 
 the back of the head, or in elf-locks over their 
 shoulders. In general these people are indo- 
 lent and filthy in their habits, being, as we have 
 repeatedly remarked, the coolies, or doers of all 
 work that nobody else will do who can find 
 more creditable employment. 
 
 Though there appears to us little similarity 
 between the Malay language and that of the 
 Pacific Islanders, excepting a few words found 
 in both, we cannot doubt of the community of 
 their origin. Their persons, colour, hair, and 
 eyes ; their general features, manner of walking 
 (especially the gait of the women), their habits 
 of life, their mode of clothing, &c., plainly in- 
 dicate that they are of one stock. There is, in- 
 deed, one remarkable distinction the Malays 
 never tatoo their bodies. 
 
 March 2. There is an insect in the moun- 
 tains here, a species of gryllus (cricket), which 
 makes a loud noise with its wings at certain 
 seasons, probably to attract its mate. Not con- 
 tent with the simple sound which it can pro- 
 
 Q 
 
226 
 
 VOYAGE TO CALCUTTA APPROACH TO THAT CITY. 
 
 duce by a natural action, it is said to resort to 
 an exceedingly curious acoustic contrivance to 
 increase it ; but we shall merely describe its 
 nest, leaving its musical capabilities to better 
 judges. In the sides of a hole which it forms 
 in the earth, large enough to contain its body, 
 it hollows out seven small tunnels, which, di- 
 verging from that common centre, and pene- 
 trating towards the surface of the ground, at 
 length open above in a circle of a palm's breadth 
 in diameter. These cylindrical apertures, being 
 made quite smooth within, expand towards the 
 top, where each may be half an inch wide, like 
 so many minute speaking trumpets. The in- 
 sect then taking its stand in the central cavity, 
 which communicates with these, and there ex- 
 ercising its fairy minstrelsy, the sound passes 
 through every tube ; and, whatever be the use 
 of this peculiar structure, the tiny musician 
 within makes hill-side and thicket to ring with 
 the chirruping din that he emits from it. 
 
 On the same mountains is found a species of 
 tarantula, a monstrous spider, which forms 
 a den for itself in the ground, two inches in 
 diameter, exceedingly smooth within and well- 
 shaped ; but what most deserves admiration is a 
 trap-door over the entrance, which it perfectly 
 covers. This ingenious appendage, composed 
 of different vegetable materials matted together 
 like felt, is so hung at the upper part as to 
 allow of being raised up when the animal goes 
 in or out, after which it immediately falls down 
 again into its place. The edges are curiously 
 fringed with a kind of network, either for orna- 
 ment the whole nest displaying exquisite skill 
 and beauty of contrivance or to conceal the 
 access and render it less liable to be discovered. 
 
 CHAPTEB XLIII. 
 
 Voyage to Calcutta Enter the River Hoo-hly Ap- 
 proach to the City The Ke\. Jann^ Hill Vi-itin^ 
 various Places ArcluU-a<vii Conie Kemale Orphan 
 School The Black Town Fort William Muslim of 
 the Asiatic Society Town Hall Visit to the KpiM-npal 
 CleiL'y The Palanquin Kamolum Hoy Intfii-.it> <>t 
 
 tin- Heat itt*hop\ CoU0g Botaakal Gacdei lian- 
 
 yan-trees Visit to Serampon Dr. Carry and his 
 Colleague* A Temple of Juggernaut Mtbommedjui 
 
 Mosqiu Haptist full, re H.-tuni to Cal.-utta llriclal 
 Pageant Bullocks , Mr. Trawin at Kulderjxire 
 Dancing Serpents Docility and Sa-a. ity ol Elephants 
 Kali. 
 
 1826. MARCH 11. Having, by invitation, visited 
 the governor, who was not at home on our first 
 landing, but who now received us with great 
 kindness, we prepared to sail for Calcutta, by 
 the Danish brig Pearl, Captain Bendichson, 
 burthen three hundred tons. This afternoon 
 we embarked accordingly, after taking leave of 
 our esteemed Missionary friends, and other re- 
 spectable residents who have shown us many 
 civilities. 
 
 April 15. Our log-book records nothing re- 
 markable since we left Pinang on the 12 ult. 
 We have, indeed, suffered a little from heat and 
 scarcity of water, but on the whole have been 
 graciously brought on our way through squalls 
 and calms and favourable gales. We are now 
 entering the river Hooghly, a branch of the 
 Ganges. The channel is about five miles wide, 
 
 the land on either side very flat, with many 
 stunted trees of variegated foliage, among which 
 the fan-palm rises with superior grace, though 
 to no considerable height. The population 
 must be very dense ; innumerable native dwell- 
 ings appear on every hand, principally in vil- 
 lage groups and under clumps of trees, for the 
 benefit of the shade. Small herds of buffaloes 
 are seen grazing on the banks of the river, and 
 a few land-birds have visited the rigging of our 
 vessel. 
 
 The villas of European residents now begin 
 to appear, and add a new feature of elegance to 
 Indian landscape. As we were sailing in view 
 of the government botanical garden, a spectacle, 
 truly Hindoo, for the first time caught our at- 
 tention a human carcase floating down the cur- 
 rent, with ravenous vultures standing upon it, 
 and tearing the flesh from the bones, which 
 were already half stripped, the ribs on one side 
 being completely bare and seen above the water. 
 Other dead bodies we observed lying on the 
 beach, all in charge of the vultures, ha\\ - 
 ailjutant-cranes, who were eagerly preying upon 
 them. 
 
 Now the far-famed city of Calcutta burst 
 upon our sight with imposing grandeur, from 
 its vast extent and the magnificent style of its 
 buildings, though situated upon a plain so flat, 
 that those only along the banks of the ri\ 
 be seen. On the right is a spacious dockyard, 
 with several large ships upon the stocks in it, 
 where, though it is the Lord's day, all hands are 
 at work as if the proprietor were not a Chris- 
 tian, and the world of business must no more 
 stand still than the earth in its orbit on the 
 Sahhath. A little above stands the v. 
 formidable fortress, Fort William, though very 
 low, according to our notions, for such defence. 
 From within rises the observatory, a eolumn- 
 lik- st ructure of great elevation ; near which ap- 
 pears a new church, of florid Gothic architec- 
 ture, not quite finished. Further on AV 
 shown the government-house, -\\ith its goodly 
 dome, and many other sumptuous buildings, all 
 of brick, but handsomely stuccoed. The har- 
 bour seemed crowded with ships, among which 
 were two steam -vessels from England. Having 
 come to anchor, we were glad to land, and 
 to the house of our friend, the Rev. 
 James Hill, of Union Chapel, which we had 
 some difficulty to find, amidst such a labyrinth 
 of masonry as we had entered into. \\ 
 carried through the streets in palanquins, with 
 four bearers to each. Well may Calcutta be 
 called a city of palaces. Mr. Hill and his ex- 
 cellent wife received us with Christian affection, 
 for His sake, whose we are, and whom we wish 
 to serve, and for the sake of that gr< 
 good Society which we, however unworthily, re- 
 present. 
 
 April 17. Few cities in the world will strike 
 an untravelled stranger from England, on his 
 first arrival, with more astonishment that Cal- 
 cutta. Wide streets, reaching for miles ; num- 
 berless mansions of the most superb architec- 
 ture, in general standing apartat short distances 
 all with Hat roofs and parapets ; the singular 
 
ARCHDEACON CORRTE THE BLACK TOWN. 
 
 227 
 
 physiognomy, costume, and manners of its 
 oriential population ; the pomp and variety of 
 enuiiv. and foreign, in the streets; 
 
 the number, rank, and character of European 
 residents civil, military, and commercial ; 
 these, with the inseparable ideas of multitude 
 and immensity, associated with everything that 
 he sees or hears of in connexion with society 
 and its pursuits here, will, for a time, over- 
 whelm and bewilder him. Perhaps, however, 
 nothing will strike him as more singular, in the 
 midst of a populous city, than to hear, when he 
 awakes in the morning, the cawing of innu- 
 merable rooks, and the chattering of jackdaws, 
 with which the air resounds, like the perpetual 
 murmur of waves 
 
 " Over some wule-water'd shore." 
 Nor, when he walks the streets, will he be less 
 surprised to observe the tameness of these birds, 
 hopping to and fro, and picking up what they 
 like under the feet of passengers ; while vultures 
 and kites, with keener eyes, and from higher 
 stations, are looking out for carrion prey, on 
 which, when they find it, they alight at once, 
 flap their wings, and rend it in open day on the 
 spot where it has fallen. Above all, the beauty 
 and majesty of the adjutant-cranes (fowls of 
 gigantic size, perched upon palace-roofs, where 
 they rather resemble ornamental sculptures than 
 living birds) will seem to delude his senses into 
 a persuasion that he has been transported into 
 the world of dreams or enchantment, where a 
 new order of nature exists. But here, as every- 
 where else, wonder is a brief and transient emo- 
 tion, and all these strangenesses will soon re- 
 solve themselves into commonplaces. In fact, 
 the impunity which birds of prey enjoy is a ne- 
 cessary provision for the health and comfort of 
 human society, in a climate and a place where 
 life and death are so frequently in contact, that, 
 unless the perishing remains of mortality were 
 buried out of sight as quickly as possible, ex- 
 istence would be intolerable, and the plague 
 perpetual. A heavy fine, therefore, is imposed 
 on persons who wantonly destroy these feathered 
 scavengers and undertakers. 
 
 April 18. We called upon Archdeacon Corrie, 
 by whom, as the friend of all who love the Lord 
 Jesus, we were most kindly welcomed. As we 
 were approaching his house we were informed 
 of the sudden death of the Bishop of Calcutta, 
 the excellent and exemplary Dr. Heber, a few 
 days ago at Trichinopoly. All classes of people 
 here to whom his worth was known, and by 
 whom the highest expectations of future bene- 
 fit to India from his evangelical labours had been 
 entertained, deeply lament his early removal. 
 
 We afterwards visited the female orphan 
 school, a handsome establishment, supported by 
 government, for the benefit of orphan children 
 of Europeans only, of whom there are at pre- 
 sent eighty-two on the foundation. The mas- 
 ter, the Rev. Mr. Schmidt, a faithful Lutheran 
 minister, with his pious wife, conduct it on de- 
 cidedly Christian principles, bringing up the 
 children in the nurture and admonition of the 
 Lord. The girls are maintained here till they 
 are either married or eligible situations have 
 
 been provided for them. Ten are instructed 
 in the Bengalee and Hindoostanee languages, 
 that they may be qualified to become agents in 
 that "new thing in the earth," the educa- 
 tion of native females in India. Several who 
 have gone out are already thus beneficently 
 employed as teachers in schools. 
 
 To-day, while we have been carried about in 
 palanquins, from one place of call to another, 
 the air felt as though it came upon our faces 
 from the month of a furnace ; and the bearers, 
 accustomed as they are to tropical heat, were in 
 very ill humour, their feet being scorched by the 
 very ground on which the sun shone ; so that, 
 when they could, they took refuge by the road- 
 sides, where they might walk for a few paces in 
 the shade upon the grass. In the evening we 
 explored that part of Calcutta which is called 
 the Black Town, being principally tenanted by 
 natives of this country. With the exception of 
 one stately mansion, occupied by some wealthy 
 persons of rank, the dwellings in general are 
 poor hovels, and, though built of bricks, are for 
 the most part miserably out of repair. We 
 passed many Hindoo temples ; some of 'them 
 handsome edifices, and one very extensive, but 
 in utter dilapidation. Mile after mile are ranges 
 of shops, where all kinds of wares are exposed 
 to sale ; while, in many of them, useful articles 
 and in others superfluous ones, but much in 
 demand are manufactured ; such as gods, and 
 trumpery ornaments to adorn the idol temples, 
 and deck the persons of the worshippers, on 
 festival occasions. Shows were exhibiting in 
 various places, with images, puerile, monstrous, 
 or abominable, on the outside, to attract atten- 
 tion ; while drums were beaten, and bawling 
 invitations given to the idle and the profligate. 
 One fellow was haranguing crowds of strangers, 
 all careless of a corpse, which lay in the street 
 hard by, covered with a cloth. The body seemed 
 to have been recently run over by one of the 
 numerous carriages, which are driven in all 
 directions, and without mercy, along the most 
 public thoroughfares. On our route we passed 
 two Fakirs, or holy beggars, to one of whom a 
 man was presenting a flower. They were young 
 fellows, with long hair and beards ; and, though 
 ugly enough by nature to personate any reason- 
 able scarecrow, they had daubed their black 
 bodies with a light-coloured clay, which gave 
 them the appearance of having been badly white- 
 washed. Besides this disguise, neither of them 
 had any covering, except a rag round the waist. 
 They were lounging by the road-side to attract 
 the veneration and pity of passengers. 
 
 April 19. To the Rev. Mr. Crawford, a pious 
 clergyman, and to several other respectable 
 persons, we delivered letters of introduction. 
 By all these we were kindly received. In the 
 evening we rode to Fort William, on the south 
 side of the city, which is probably one of the 
 most impregnable artificial strongholds in the 
 world. It is of great extent, and constructed 
 on the most scientific principles of defence, 
 where no natural advantages could be pressed 
 into use the ground being very little elevated 
 above the dead level of the adjacent country. 
 
 Q 2 
 
228 
 
 MUSEUM OF THE ASIATIC SOCIETY THE PALANQUIN. 
 
 It is surrounded with deep fosses, and presents 
 an appalling front of resistance for any enemy 
 to assail. "Within are barracks for the garrison, 
 and an observatory, which is a narrow circular 
 tower, a hundred feet in height. From this 
 magazine of terror and annoyance we went to 
 an armoury of another kind, the weapons of 
 which are not carnal, yet mighty to the pulling 
 down of strongholds the Bible Society's de- 
 pository, which contains a large store of copies 
 of versions of the Holy Scriptures, in the vari- 
 ous dialects of the east. Happily, the ammu- 
 nition for carrying on the holy war, against 
 principalities and powers, supplied from this 
 arsenal, is far more in requisition now than the 
 artillery and implements of destruction shut up 
 in Fort William. 
 
 April 20. Our first visit to-day was to the 
 museum of the Asiatic Society, established by 
 the late Sir William Jones. The building is 
 spacious, and well furnished with a multifarious 
 collection of curiosities, natural and artificial. 
 These have been greatly increased from the 
 spoils of the late Burmese war, among which 
 some ancient stones, with engraved inscriptions, 
 are probably the most precious. The library is 
 not extensive, but contains many valuable books 
 and manuscripts of Indian literature. From 
 the museum we proceeded to the town-hall, 
 which includes two public rooms, the one over 
 the other, each two hundred feet long by seventy 
 
 wide, supported by a double row of massive 
 pillars. On either side are suits of apartments, 
 for committees, &c. There are no halls for the 
 transaction of public business in London, that 
 we have seen, to be compared in magnificence 
 and convenience with these. The lower one 
 is paved with marble ; the upper, being used for 
 balls and festivities, is most splendidly adorned, 
 and furnished with every luxurious accommoda- 
 tion for such purposes. At one end of the 
 former there is a noble monument, in marble, of 
 the late Marquis Cornwallis, by Bacon, twenty 
 feet in height. This was erected in honour of 
 the deliverer of British India, at the expense of 
 the European residents. 
 
 April 21. It is the custom here, about nine 
 o'clock in the morning, to close the glass win. 
 dows (for the outsides are all Venetian blinds), 
 to keep out the hot air. This is an important 
 contrivance, as the state of the thermometer, 
 to-day, will show : in the closed room 85 ; in the 
 open air 96. We dined in the evening with 
 Archdeacon Corrie, at whose tabl< 
 the Christian society of most of the church 
 clergymen of Calcutta, together with several 
 ladies and gentlemen, friends to the gospel, ami 
 promoters of it in various ways. AmoiiL 
 we were particularly pleased to meet M 
 son (formerly Miss Cook) and Miss Uird, both 
 of whom are signally and blessedly devoted to 
 the education of native females. 
 
 In this city none but the natives think of 
 walking from street to street, if they possess, or 
 can hire, a carriage. Coaches, chaises, and single- 
 horse conveyances are much in vogue ; but the 
 palanquin is the national, if not the natural, 
 vehicle here, and throughout the peninsula. 
 There is a palanquin-carriage, which consists of 
 an oblong box, on four wheels, in which from 
 two to four people may sit, screened from the sun 
 by Venetian blinds ; but the proper palanquin 
 is adapted for one person only. It is about six 
 feet long and high enough to allow the body to 
 sit upright, as in a bed, with the le^s stretched 
 forward, and cushions so placed as to allow the 
 
 indulgence of the most indolent repose ; sliding 
 doors, curtains, and Venetian blinds, complete 
 the accommodation. The whole may be called 
 a moveable tent, which is carried, by means of 
 horizontal poles, on the shoulders of lour men. 
 
 April 27. The celebrated liamohun Roy, ac- 
 companied by Mr. Adams, lately a Bapi> 
 sionary, honoured us with a call this morning. 
 This learned native is a man of majestic figure, 
 with a very intelligent and prepossessing aspec t. 
 He was becomingly dressed, in a long muslin 
 robe, Avith a modest Ibrni of turban on his head ; he 
 wears mustachios on the upper lip, speak 
 lish fluently, and appears to be about forty-the 
 

RAMOHUN ROY BISHOP'S COLLEGE. 
 
 229 
 
 years of age. Ramohun Roy is, unquestionably, 
 a person of high talents, which have been assi- 
 duously cultivated ; but he is, unhappily, defect- 
 ive in that best part of wisdom the pure, heart- 
 humbling, soul-exalting knowledge of Jesus 
 Christ, as the Son of God and the Redeemer of 
 the world. His friend Mr. Adams having 
 adopted Socinian views of the gospel, those of 
 this remarkable convert from the superstition of 
 his fathers are of the same forlorn kind, reaching 
 no further than the mere humanity of our Sa- 
 viour, and his pre-eminence as a teacher, ex- 
 emplar, confessor, and martyr, in the cause of 
 truth and righteousness. In the course of con- 
 versation we proposed a variety of questions, to 
 which he answered with great promptitude. 
 These were principally in reference to that form 
 of Christianity which he professes, and which, 
 so far as we could judge, seems, on some points, 
 to be peculiarly his own. He told us that he 
 was bom a Brahmin, but had renounced the ab- 
 surdities and abominations of Hindooism. He 
 avowed his belief in the divine authority of the 
 Scriptures, but denied the sinfulness of human 
 nature, saying that men are born with an equal 
 propensity to good and evil. The doctrine of 
 the Trinity, and, of consequence, that of the 
 divinity and atonement of our Lord, he re- 
 jects, and is on; the whole, in these respects, 
 a pretty consistent Socinian. He asked us 
 whether we thought him a Christian. "When 
 an" answer was given in the negative, he re- 
 joined, " Will you not allow me to be half a 
 Christian!" Sincerity required an ingenuous 
 answer, and it was returned in nearly these 
 words : " No ; you deny the doctrines which 
 are peculiar to Christianity, and which distin- 
 guish it from all other forms of religion ; while 
 you hold only those general moral sentiments 
 which are common to many other systems, or 
 may be engrafted upon them. You cannot, 
 therefore, be considered a Christian, nor in a 
 safe state." He thought this was a hard judg- 
 ment, but he bore it well, and preserved his good 
 temper throughout the whole discussion, which 
 was not brief, but lasted nearly two hours. He is 
 perfectly skilled in the tactics of Socinian contro- 
 versy, and defended himself and his notions 
 with as much ability and discretion as any per- 
 son of similar tenets whom we have encountered. 
 
 April 23. After attending the catechising of 
 between thirty and forty children, in the vestry, 
 by Mr. Hill, in the morning, and the public 
 service, conducted by Mr. Trawin, in the fore- 
 noon, Mr. Tyerman preached in the evening, 
 from 1 John iii. 8 : " For this purpose the Son 
 of God was manifested, that he might destroy 
 the works of the devil." In compliance with a 
 special request, and a public annunciation, on 
 the last Sabbath, the preacher illustrated this 
 text by showing, at considerable length, how 
 the works of the devil, in the isles of the west, 
 had been destroyed, to an unprecedented extent, 
 wherever the Son of God, by a preached gospel, 
 had been manifested. 
 
 April 24. At the sides of the streets of Cal- 
 cutta are often seen stands for beggars. These 
 are patches of whitewashed wall, about six feet 
 
 square, with a raised ledge at one end, on which 
 are placed a few large shells, for the receipt of 
 charity thrown into them by passengers in the 
 form of a few cowries (the Cyprcea Moneta), which 
 are current coin throughout the east. A ship, 
 loaded with the latter (a small species of the 
 shell bearing that name), comes annually from 
 the coast of Arabia to this city ; and the adven- 
 turers are supposed to make a very profitable 
 voyage by the merchandise of these intrinsically 
 valueless proxies for money, which are readily 
 exchanged for less factitious articles of manu- 
 facture and produce, everywhere marketable. 
 
 May 2. We went to spend the day at the 
 house of Mr. Balfard, in the Garden reach. 
 After breakfast we crossed the Hooghly, to visit 
 the Bishop's College, which is principally in- 
 tended to prepare young men, born in the 
 country, for the church. This noble building, 
 which is much in the style of our university 
 colleges in England, stands in a delightful spot, 
 near the Botanical Gardens, and about a mile 
 from the city. There are at present nine youths 
 on the .foundation, who study the learned lan- 
 guages and those of India. The chapel is not 
 yet completed. The library already contains a 
 valuable collection of books. We returned to 
 Mr. Ballard's to dinner ; but in the evening we 
 again crossed the Hooghly, for a ramble in the 
 Botanical Gardens, which are said to be the 
 finest in the world. They comprise five hundred 
 acres of ground, which are laid out, with con- 
 summate taste, in shrubberies, parterres, and 
 flower-beds, with grass-plats and water-pools. 
 All the plants of India, so far as can be ascer- 
 tained, are collected here, besides numberless 
 specimens from other parts of the world. Here 
 are several banyan-trees, not less graceful in 
 form than complex in ramification. One is of 
 singular grandeur ; its pillar-like branches, 
 rooted beneath, are spread in arcades all round, 
 and measure in circumference five hundred and 
 fifty feet. The head is so dense with foliage as to 
 be both rain and sunbeam proof. Several of 
 the hundred-fold arms of this Briareus of trees 
 having struck out horizontally, props were, from 
 time to time, placed under them for their sup- 
 port ; these have themselves vegetated, and now 
 resemble trunks of inferior trees, embodied with 
 the boughs that rest upon them. This is in- 
 comparably the most beautiful specimen of the 
 Ficus Indicus that we have ever seen. Those 
 in the islands, formerly described by us, though 
 enormous in bulk, were of savage and irregular 
 growth, and commanded admiration more by 
 the magnitude than the symmetry of their shapes. 
 
 May 3. Dr. Carey and his brethren of the 
 Baptist Missionary station at Serampore having 
 invited us to pay them a visit, and sent their 
 boat down the river to convey us, we went 
 thither to-day. The banks of the Hooghly, on 
 either side, presented lands rich and lovely with 
 tropical vegetation. Many handsome villas of 
 European residents, and frequent Hindoo tem- 
 ples, adorn the adjacent country. The places 
 of idolatrous worship are peculiarly picturesque, 
 as well as characteristic of the people ; in some 
 places they stand singly, and are simple or ele- 
 
230 
 
 DR. CAREY AND HIS COLLEAGUES. 
 
 gant structures ; in others a grand portico occu- 
 pies the centre of six surrounding temples. 
 These are usually about fifteen feet square each ; 
 the door in the centre, no window, and the 
 vaulted roof crowned with certain ornaments, 
 symbolical of the respective divinities to which 
 they are consecrated. 
 
 After a pleasant sail of three hours we landed 
 at Serampore a word signifying, we are told, 
 the town of the glorious god Ram ; or the glori- 
 ous town Ram. This is a little Danish settle- 
 ment in the midst of the immense British terri- 
 tory, compared with which it is but a hand- 
 breadth of soil. A line of good-looking houses 
 stretches along the margin of the river, though 
 to no great extent. These belong to the Danes 
 and other Europeans, whose number is very 
 small. The population is reckoned to be twenty 
 thousand, almost entirely Hindoos ; who, for 
 the most part, inhabit poor mud-walled or 
 bamboo-wattled cottages. The Serampore Col- 
 lege, belonging to our Baptist friends, is a 
 spacious and admirably-planned building, with 
 a commanding front towards the Hooghly. 
 
 Here we were most cordially received and 
 welcomed by that venerable man Dr. Carey, 
 whose " honour, name, and praise," are in all 
 our churches, at home and abroad. Dr. "M ash- 
 man being absent in England, Mrs. Marshman 
 showed us every hospitable attention. We found 
 Dr. Carey in his study ; and we were both pleas- 
 ed and struck with his primitive, and we may say 
 apostolical appearance. He is short of stature; 
 his hair white ; his [countenance equally bland 
 and benevolent in feature and expression. Two 
 Hindoo men were sitting by, engaged in paint- 
 ing some small subjects in Natural History, of 
 which the Doctor (a man of pure taste and 
 highly intellectual cast of feeling, irrespective of 
 his more learned pursuits) has a choice collec- 
 tion both in specimens and pictured representa- 
 tions. Botany is a favourite study with him, 
 and his garden is curiously enriched with rari- 
 ties.* In the evening Mr. Tyerman was invited 
 to preach, which he did from Acts viii. 5 8 : 
 the subject, Philip at Samaria. The congrega- 
 
 * Whatever serves to illustrate the character of tin- late 
 venerable Dr. Carey I know will aflbrd pleasure and pos- 
 sess an interest with all intelligent readers : therefore, 
 without apology, the following simple account is gh en in 
 this place. 
 
 When my late friend Mr. Tyerman and I were in India, 
 in 1826, and favoured to be visitors for a few days to our 
 respected Baptist Missionary friends at Serampore, the 
 first morning after our arrival Dr. 'Carey took me out 
 with him at live o'clock for an hour's drive, an exercise 
 which it was his practice daily to enjoy for many years. 
 On returning, at six, I accompanied him to his extensive 
 and well-arranged garden (in which he also invariably 
 spent the hour from six to seven o'clock), containing 
 most of the vegetable beauties and wonders of the tropical 
 regions, with many others. Passing by a multitude of 
 these, the Doctor conducted me to a shady nook, whore, 
 pointing to a clump of English daisies, and looking at 
 them at the same time with peculiar fondness, he related 
 how he had unexpectedly acquired the treasure, putting 
 into my hand at the same moment for perusal my friend 
 Montgomery's beautiful stan/as " The Daisy in "India." 
 and the poet's letter which accompanied the same. These 
 st;iH/.as, with the letter, had evidently made a strong im- 
 pression on the heart of the learned Doctor, \\\M, with 
 modest simplicity, said, " I well know I am not entitled 
 to the high commendations in these verses, but I am sure 
 
 tion consisted chiefly of the Mission family ; 
 namely, a hundred and twenty children of both 
 sexes at Mrs. Marshman's school, and about 
 thirty other persons. 
 
 you will read them with pleasure, they are so beautiful 
 and so kind." 
 
 The simple history of "The Daisy in India" is as 
 follows : 
 
 A Gentleman, a scientific botanist, residing near 
 Sheffield, had sent out to Dr. Carey a package of various 
 kinds of British seeds, some of which were enclosed in a 
 bag with a portion of their native earth. In March, 
 1821, a letter , of acknowledgment had come from the 
 Doctor, who excelled as a practical botanist as well .is an 
 accomplished linguist. In that letter he says, " That I 
 might oe sure not to lose any part of your valuable pre- 
 sent, I shook the bag over a patch of earth in a shady 
 place:* on revisiting which, some days after \* 
 found sprung up, to my inexpressible delL'ht 
 perennis of our English pastures. I know not that I . \r r 
 enjoyed, since leaving Europe, a simple pleasu: 
 quibite as the unexpected sight of this Enirlish Daisy 
 afforded me; not ha\ ing seen one for upwards of thiity 
 years, and never expecting to see one again." 
 
 This interesting letter was handed by the gentleman 
 who had received it to my valued friend Mont^omer> 
 and myself for perusal, ami occasioned the beautiful 
 poem, which you will readily suppo-e has both Indian 
 and Hii-li-h a^.x -iatii.ns in my m:nd with the eminently 
 pious and amiable mis-io], well as with 
 
 my old friend the i>oct, which I cherish with d.-.i-ht. 
 I transcribe the poem from the copy which 1 : 
 from the author when on the 1'acitic Ocean in 1822. 
 
 Bxn 
 
 THE DAISY IN INDIA. 
 
 [Supposed to be addressed by the Rev. Dr. Wm. Carey, 
 
 Qt learned and illustrious Baptist Mi-sioiiarv , to' the 
 first plant of this species which spruiu; up unexpectedly 
 in his garden out of some English earth, in w Inch other 
 seeds had been conveyed to him from his native soil.] 
 
 Thrice welcome, little English (lower! 
 
 My mother country's white and red, 
 Never so lovely till this hour, 
 
 To me their .-imple beauties spread; 
 
 Transplanted from thine island bed, 
 A treasure in a grain of earth, 
 
 Strange a- a spirit from t!ie dead, 
 Thine embryo sprung to birth. 
 
 Thrice welcpme/Httle English flow.-r! 
 
 Whose triU-s beneath our natal skies 
 Shut close their lca\es while \apours lower, 
 
 Hut when the sun's uay beams arise, 
 
 With unabash'd but mode-- 
 Follow his motion to the \\e-t ; ' 
 
 Nor cease to gaze till dayliirht 
 Then fold themselves U< 
 
 Thrice welcome, little English flower I 
 
 To this resplendent hemisphere; 
 Where Flora's giant ort'spring tower 
 
 In gorgeous li\ cries all the year : 
 
 Thou, only thou, art little here, 
 Like worth unfriended and unknown; 
 
 Yet to my liritish heart more dear 
 Than all the torrid zone ! Thrice 
 
 * There is a remarkable coincidence between this cir- 
 euin-tancc and the \ery natural and striking expedient 
 by which the ingenious author of Kohinson <': .. 
 trivesto supply his hero on his desolate island with wheat 
 or barley, which could not be indigenous there ; namely, 
 that Crusoe one day, on a patch of ground near his habi- 
 tation (long -liter his arrival!, perceiving some ' 
 vegetation sprinu'ini: up after the rains, and not knowing 
 what they were, watched their growth day by day, till 
 he a- ntamed, to his inexpressible delight, that the> were 
 plants of English corn of some kind. He then recollected 
 that he had once shaken out the du-ty refuse from the 
 bottom of a bag whi.h had been used" to hold grain lor 
 the fowls on shipboard. 
 
MAHOMMEDAN MOSQUE BAPTIST COLLEGE. 
 
 231 
 
 MahommeiUm^Mosque. 
 
 May 4. Dr. Caroy took us in the morning 
 to one of those temples of Juggernaut which 
 are so famous throughout India, and deservedly 
 so infamous throughout Europe, since the atro- 
 cities and impurities connected with the wor- 
 ship ;it such places have been exposed by the 
 late Dr. ISnchanan and succeeding writers. 
 This stands in the centre of a brick enclosure, 
 nearly eighty ioet square ; the basis of the tem- 
 ple is about twenty. There is one door, no 
 window, and the roof, which is pyramidal, is 
 \ari.nisU ornamented, terminating in a symbol, 
 at the height of forty feet. There is nothing 
 either attractive or repulsive in the appearance 
 of the editice ; the whole in fact being of a very 
 
 Thrice \M'lronie, little English llowcr ! 
 
 Of eaih scenes beloved by me, 
 While happy in my father's bower, 
 
 Thou thalt tin- bright memorial be; 
 
 Tin- 1'a.iry spots of infancy, 
 Youth's golden ai;e, and manhood's prime, 
 
 Home, country, kindred, friends, with the.*, 
 Arc mine in this far clime. 
 
 Thrice welcome, little English (lower '. 
 I'll rear thee with a trembling hand; 
 
 for th<- April -un and shower, 
 
 The sweet May dews, of that fair land, 
 Where daisies'thick as starlight stand 
 
 In every walk ! Tliat here may shoot 
 'I by scions, and thy buds expand, 
 
 A hundred from one root. 
 
 Thrice welcome, little English flower ! 
 To IIP: the pledge of hopes unseen. 
 
 Wh-M sorrow would my soul o'erpower, 
 For joys that iri:ri~, or initjht /inn- In fii, 
 I'll call to mind how, beta and ^n-cii, 
 
 1 saw the.- waking from the dust; 
 Then, turn to hea\en a brow serene. 
 
 And plac.- in <;,,d m y trust! 
 
 .IAMKS MONTGOMERY. 
 Sheffield, March 30, 1821. 
 
 ordinary character. Near it the car of Jugger- 
 naut is kept under a thatched bamboo-shed. 
 This '* seat of Satan" rises in a pyramidal form 
 like the temple, and is about twenty feet square 
 at the base. It is an immense unwieldy mass 
 of woodwork, supported upon rows of low 
 wheels, under the middle as well as at the 
 sides. Two wooden horses were in it, which 
 are yoked in front when the car is dragged out 
 by human cattle with strong cables on festival 
 occasions. This vehicle is coloured red; the 
 structure is complicated, and the ornamental 
 paintings and embellishments are of the most 
 grotesque, outrageous, and detestable description. 
 The anniversary of the idol, which takes place 
 about midsummer, is attended by myriads of in- 
 fatuated people from all quarters of India ; on 
 some occasions, not fewer than three hundred 
 thousand are computed to have been present. 
 
 Near this temple of "the beast" there is 
 another to " the false prophet ;" a Mahommedan 
 mosque, erected, we are informed, by a Chris- 
 tian, who appears to have fancied that the Mus- 
 sulman's religion might be as good as his own. 
 
 The Baptist Missionary College here has be- 
 come so well known, in consequence of the 
 numerous versions of the sacred Scriptures, in 
 the languages of India and China, that have 
 been produced and issued from it, that neither 
 description of the building, nor panegyric on its 
 <>rs, is requisite here. The labours of 
 Dr. Carey, Dr. Marshman, and their coadjutors, 
 are not for one generation only ; others, indeed, 
 may interfere and carry them forward to per- 
 fection, but they can never be superseded ; the 
 foundations which these master-builders have 
 laid must remain, even though the earth cover 
 
232 
 
 BRIDAL PAGEANT BULLOCKS. 
 
 them, how high and how beautiful soever may 
 be the edifices hereafter erected upon them. 
 The beginning of that which shall not cease 
 till the end of time must be had in peculiar 
 remembrance, and hold its distinct and un- 
 eclipsed precedence over all that comes after ; 
 not as being intrinsically better or greater, but 
 because it necessarily led to greater and better 
 things than could have been accomplished by 
 the originators, and, we may add, than could 
 have been accomplished without them. The 
 word of God, once spoken in the dialects of 
 people who are in number as the sands of the 
 sea, will be spoken to them and to their chil- 
 dren's children, till all hear it and oh, may 
 we not hope, till all that hear it shall keep it ! 
 
 Dr. Carey informs us that there are about a 
 thousand persons throughout India who have 
 become professing Christians, in connexion with 
 the Serampore Mission, of whom more than 
 one-third have been baptized and received into 
 their churches ; concerning the most of those 
 in the best judgment of charity, it may be be- 
 lieved that they are genuinely-converted cha- 
 racters. In the evening we visited several 
 native schools for girls in the neighbourhood, 
 which are under the superintendence of the 
 benevolent ladies of Serampore. Several jack- 
 alls ran across the road. Such animals abound 
 here, and "make night hideous" with their 
 howling and barking, in the streets and gardens 
 of the town, which they haunt for offal ; but 
 disappearing with the dawn, when they slink 
 back into the jungles. No one injures them, 
 for, as auxiliary scavengers to the vultures and 
 rooks, they cannot be considered nuisances. In 
 the Danish town resides a son of the late Tippoo 
 Saib, one of the hostages delivered up by that 
 tyrant as his recognizances to keep the peace. 
 Here is a Lutheran church, but there being no 
 resident minister the Baptist Missionaries offi- 
 ciate in it every Lord's day. There is also a 
 Catholic chapel. One of the circumstances by 
 which this neighbourhood has obtained noto- 
 riety is, that, being under the crown of Den- 
 mark, British delinquents fly hither, from Cal- 
 cutta and elsewhere, till they can find oppor- 
 tunity to escape out of the country. 
 
 May 5. Returning'to Calcutta, in the mission- 
 boat, we had an awful instance of the power and 
 malignity of that scourge of India now making 
 havoc throughout the continent the cholera 
 morbus. One of the natives, who was engaged 
 in the management of the vessel, being suddenly 
 seized by this pest, in the course of s a few se- 
 conds fell down as dead. He was immediately 
 taken on shore, and what became of him we 
 have not heard. 
 
 In the evening a splendid procession passed 
 up the street where we lodged, in Calcutta, in 
 honour of the marriage, or rather the betroth- 
 ment, of a young baboo, of great rank, to a 
 girl of the same age the parties being about 
 eight years old each. In front marched a 
 li How who had work enough to carry a pair 
 of lingo drums, encircled with wire-work, which 
 were beaten by two able-handed comrades on 
 fit her side of him. These were followed by the 
 
 representation of a mountain, made of paper 
 and tinsel, with jutting rocks, trees, and ani- 
 mals upon it, supported upon men's shoulders, 
 as were all the succeeding pageants. The next 
 of these was a large boat, terminating forward 
 in the head and breast of an immense bird ; the 
 vessel itself was full-manned with rowers, ma- 
 naging their paddles as though they were on 
 the river. Next came the gaudy model of a 
 temple, upon many pillars. A second exhibi- 
 tion of the same kind, in which appeared two 
 well-dressed young women, came afterwards; 
 and a third, open all round, and most sumptu- 
 ously adorned, exhibited the bridegroom, sitting 
 under a canopy and attended by four youths, 
 the latter apparelled in crimson ; but the 
 former (a beautiful child) wore a brown silk 
 frock, spangled with gold and strung with pearls. 
 The bride, in an elegant palanquin, but not 
 visible, brought up the rear. On each side of 
 the way, artificial trees, flowers, companies of 
 soldiers, and numberless other fanciful accom- 
 paniments, were borne along with the proces- 
 sion. Bands of musicians, meanwhile, made 
 the air ring with their harmony or their disso- 
 nance, as the ear might be familiar or unaccus- 
 tomed to their strains. The length of the whole 
 cavalcade was nearly a quarter of a mile. 
 
 Bullocks are not only commonly employed 
 here in drawing carts, two to each, but also tor 
 vehicles of state or pleasure. Some of these 
 animals arc very large and beautiful ; both in 
 their colour and decorations corresponding to the 
 poet's description : * 
 
 " In summer's day, when I'luchus fairly shone, 
 1 >.i\v a bull, as white at drircn sntnr, 
 With giiden hornt, embowi-tl like tin- moon." 
 
 We saw a pair of these the other day, in a 
 small carriage, singularly diminnti\e in si/.o, 
 milk-white, and having the ho- upon its shoul- 
 ders (the lesser Indian Ox, the Bos Indicus of 
 Linn., and Zebu of Buffon). Neither of them 
 exceeded thirty-six inches in height, yet they 
 were full grown and delicately symmetrical. 
 
 May 26. We went to Kidderpore, where Mr. 
 Trawiu is pastor, and attended a solemn ser- 
 vice in his chapel, at which three native con- 
 verts were to be added to the church there, 
 already consisting of thirteen. An 1 
 hymn was sung at the commencement 
 Hill read the scripture portion, and prayed ; 
 Mr. Tyermau afterwards preached from Zech. 
 iv. 10: "Who hath despised the day of small 
 things?" A Bengalee hymn was then sung by 
 the native Christians. The three candidates 
 (two men and a woman) having satisfactorily 
 answered the questions proposed by Mr. Trawin, 
 both questions and answers being repeated to 
 the congregation in English, Mr. Tyermaii ad- 
 ministered the baptismal rite, and Sir. Trawin 
 prayed over them. The scene was very affect- 
 ing ; many Europeans and country -born whites 
 were present. The newly baptized reside in a 
 neighbouring village, where the old heathen 
 temple has been demolished, and the materials 
 given by the proprietor towards the erection of 
 a Christian chapel. 
 
DANCING SERPENTS SAGACITY AND DOCILITY OF ELEPHANTS. 233 
 
 May 19. Several men came to our door to 
 exhibit dancing serpents. Some of these were 
 six or seven feet long. Each was coiled up 
 in a separate basket, out of which they were 
 dragged and thrown upon the ground ; their 
 keepers singing to them certain drawling airs, 
 accompanied by strokes upon a small drum, 
 which regulated the motions of the serpents. 
 These raised themselves to the height of two 
 feet, flattening their breasts, and turning their 
 heads to bite their keepers, which they were 
 allowed to do occasionally, so as even to draw 
 blood ; but they are innoxious, their poisonous 
 fangs having been extracted. We have been 
 told of a gentleman, a fine performer on the 
 violin, who, living at Chinsurah, was obliged to 
 lay aside his instrument, as the lively sounds so 
 charmed the serpents in the neighbourhood that 
 his house could not be kept free from them. 
 
 May 20. Visiting a rich rajah, who lives about 
 five miles from the city, his Highness ordered 
 two of his elephants to be accoutred, that we 
 might have the gratification of riding upon them. 
 The seat was a scarlet pad, fastened on the ani- 
 mal's back by means of a crupper and girths 
 round the body ; an ornament of silver also 
 was put round the face and over the upper part 
 of the trunk. The command being given, the 
 elephant crouched down, stretching his hinder 
 legs backward, so as to bring his belly nearly to 
 the ground, and then kneeling down on his 
 tore ones. A short ladder was placed against 
 his flank, which the rider mounted, and took 
 his seat on the pad. The driver, then bestriding 
 the elephant's neck, immediately behind his 
 enormous ears, holds in his hand an iron instru- 
 ment, about a foot in length, with several hooks 
 along the side ; the one end being blunt and 
 the other pointed. With the latter he strikes 
 upon the skull, to quicken the creature's pace. 
 This seems cruelty, but is the readiest way of 
 reaching sensibilities not very accessible. Ours, 
 however, needed no such barbarous excitement, 
 but were guided this way or that, and went 
 slower or faster, by a gentle word or motion of 
 their drivers. The gait of the elephant is a long 
 step, which occasions an unpleasant rocking to 
 the unpractised rider at first, but he soon con- 
 trives to accommodate himself to it. After an 
 amusing ride we dismounted, each from his 
 noble beast, as we had ascended, by means of 
 a ladder ; at parting, giving him a salaam, or 
 bow of acknowledgment for his good services, 
 which he courteously returned by raising his 
 trunk above his head. These tractable creatures 
 are sent out regularly to collect their own pro- 
 vender in the neighbouring jungles. This con- 
 sists principally of the branches of trees, which 
 they rend off with their trunks, and pile upon 
 their backs in great ricks, so aptly laid together 
 and so nicely poised, that their attendants have 
 only to fling a rope across and fasten it under 
 their bellies, when the load is perfectly secure, 
 and they return home with it. The food thus 
 gathered is given to them as they require it, 
 and when exhausted they are despatched for 
 more. 
 
 May 24. At the famous temple of the goddess 
 
 Kali we witnessed idolatry in perfection. The 
 building, which appears to be very ancient, 
 stands near the river, in the midst of a village 
 of miserable thatched cabins. The face of the 
 great image (Kali) is black, having three red 
 eyes, and a golden tongue a foot and a half long, 
 of which the upper part is smeared with blood. 
 The lips, eyebrows, and ears are of gold. Rich 
 ornaments, and wreathes of crimson flowers, 
 adorn the head. In one of her four golden 
 arms this female fiend brandishes a scymetar, 
 and in another holds, by a silver chain, a head 
 of gold, as though it had been just smitten off. 
 The idol is a bust, raised upon a stone pedestal, 
 and the height of the whole may be eight feet. 
 Many Brahmins, presenting flowers, performing 
 puerile ceremonies, or muttering prayers, were 
 seated cross-legged before the shrine ; and on 
 the floor were strewn many idols of black stone 
 all ugly, and not a few utterly detestable to 
 look upon. Several men come in, and prostrated 
 themselves, full length, before the horrid figure ; 
 others stretched their hands imploringly to- 
 wards it, and struck their foreheads repeatedly 
 tigainst the stones of the pavement. In the 
 place of sacrifice two posts were driven into the 
 ground, forked at the tops. To one of these 
 was tied a kid, with a garland of red flowers 
 about its head, which had previously been 
 dipped in the waters of the Ganges. The un- 
 conscious victim was waiting for its death-wound 
 at the appointed hour, which being too late for 
 our convenience, we did not wait to sec the 
 rite performed. The animal's head, whether 
 kid, or sheep, or bullock, must be severed at 
 a blow ; miscarriage indicating ill-luck to the 
 offerer. Multitudes of worshippers are on the 
 road, to and fro, all day long ; so great is Kali 
 of the Hindoos an incarnation of Sheva the 
 Destroyer. Human sacrifices are confidently 
 affirmed to be offered up occasionally here, but 
 in secret. 
 
 CHAPTER XLIV. 
 
 Sailing up the Hooghly Buffaloes crossing the River- 
 Milkmen on the Gauges Evening Sights and Sounds 
 Strong Current River-scenery Shocking Spectacle 
 Burning of a Hindoo Corpse A Yogee or Hindoo 
 Saint A Funeral by Water Benares Allahabad 
 Voluntary Brownings Baboon -worship Subterranean 
 Temple Barbers and Bathers Superb Mahommedan 
 Procession- Privileged Monkeys Native Termagants 
 Fashions at Benares. 
 
 JUNE 8. Finding that it would not be expe- 
 dient to attempt the journey to Benares by land, 
 we engaged a pinnace, about fifty feet in length ; 
 a flat-bottomed vessel, brig-rigged, and con- 
 taining all sufficient means of accommodation 
 for an inland voyage. The crew consists of 
 eighteen men and boys, besides a cook and 
 consumer, that is, a person to go on shore and 
 purchase such necessaries as might be wanted 
 by the way. Accordingly, we embarked this 
 day, and proceeded up the Hooghly, the most 
 sacred branch of the Ganges, with wind and 
 tide in our favour. 
 
 The daily incidents of this leisurely navigation, 
 which was not completed till the 18th of July, 
 though interesting to ourselves, were of too mo- 
 
234 
 
 BUFFALOES EVENING SIGHTS AND SOUNDS. 
 
 notorious a description to be detailed in this place. 
 We came to anchor every evening, and sailed 
 again the next morning occasionally Avent on 
 shore and suffered some inconveniences, as 
 might be expected, from weariness and confine- 
 ment ; but, on the whole, as hitherto, through 
 all our journeyings, we experienced the pre- 
 sence, protection, and blessing of God. Our 
 principal entertainment from Avithout was in 
 viewing and contrasting the scenery and aspect 
 of the vast regions which we thus quietly tra- 
 versed. The variety in these was abundantly 
 gratifying to the eye ; while the multitude of 
 human beings, their dwellings, temples, persons, 
 dress, manners, and occupations, alternately 
 furnished subjects of painful and pleasing con- 
 templation, ^s they glided in continual succes- 
 sion, like the images of a magic lantern, be- 
 fore us, 
 
 A* few circumstances, by the way, may be 
 noticed. At Terriagully there is a pass which, 
 in former times, was of great military import- 
 ance, and was often contested between the two 
 provinces of Bengal and Bahar. The Ganges 
 here is about two miles in breadth. Some men 
 were driving a large herd of buffaloes across the 
 stream, and they had to swim the principal part 
 of the distance. It was curious tp see the ani- 
 nwb, with their muzzles and horns above the 
 surface, while the drovers made a hideous out- 
 cry, swimming behind them, and splashing the 
 water to urge them forward. Occasionally they 
 plunged among the cattle, striking them witli 
 bamboos, forcing up their heads, or laying hold 
 of their tails, to support them in the current. 
 Some of the calves were taken over in a boat. 
 One poor beast, whose calf was among these, 
 appeared in most pitiable distress. For a 
 j Avhil'e. she Avould SAvim a little omvard, then 
 suddenly turn round, and, Avith sad lowing :iinl 
 moaning, come to the boat's side, to gaze at her 
 young one, till at length, losing all patience., 
 she made a resolute effort to get into the vessel, 
 *but Avas beaten off again. Distraction was in 
 her looks, and every motion exhibited intensity 
 <jf affection. When all Avere safely landed on 
 tne other side, no small joy Avas discovered by 
 the Avhole herd gamboling and belloAving about 
 the beach for very transport. The drovers, 
 whom we have repeatedly seen conducting such 
 transits of buffaloes, seem to have no fear of the 
 alligators that infest the river, but wade or 
 swim about AvhereA'er they like, or as necessity 
 requires. 
 
 ; .The doodh icallas, or milkmen, Avho haA'e to 
 cross Jthe Ganges to milk their COAVS, or to sell 
 their commodity, are equally regardless of the&e 
 formidable-looking reptiles. The vessel Avhich 
 they use is ft #rge bottle made of thick 
 leather, Avhich, Affeen empfy, or -rather when 
 fillell Avith air, is veryHbuoyant. This, being 
 fastenect to a piece of light Avood, makes a 
 powerfuT'float, on Avhich the man rests, and 
 easily ferries it over the river by the action of 
 his hands ami feet. On tne contrary, Avhcn the 
 bottle is full of milk, though it sinks deeper in 
 tin- Avater, yet, the contents being, specitically 
 lighter, his raft, including the attachment of 
 
 timber or bamboo, is sufficient to bear him 
 through the current, paddled, as before, by his 
 hands and feet. 
 
 Among the numberless temples Avhich, Avher- 
 ever Ave sailed, marked the landscape on the 
 right hand and on the left. v.<- observed one 
 AA'hich the roots of a 1 had so en- 
 
 tirely overgrown, that the Avails, both Avithin 
 and without, were imbedded in the Avood. The 
 edifice Avas about eight feet square, and, being 
 open at the top, there Avas placed in it t he- 
 odious symbol most Avorshippcd thro 
 India (the linpu) ; and on this " abomination" 
 a votive Avreath of flowers had recently 
 hung, before our arrival. 
 
 Anchoring in a narrow rreek, near the town 
 of Colgong, and the evening being very culm; 
 numbers of the natives of both* sexes came 
 down to bathe in the river, Avhich they did with 
 the utmost decorum. Many women al- 
 seen returning with their watrr-pots on their 
 heads ; some carrying their infants in their 
 :id others "astride of the hip, as in the 
 South Sea Islands. A drum, trump- 
 human voice singing, in the distance, .were 
 sounds so familiar a< to remind jis at 
 the laud of our nativity, Avhi* 
 it were, before our eyes, by the appearance of a 
 flag flying on the top of a 1< . To- 
 
 wards this Ave hastened, and found it to be 
 hoisted in the market-place of the little town, 
 consisting entirely of native houses, low and 
 thatched, except one of European structure, 
 deserted and in ruins. Nearly opposite Avere 
 three monuments, Avhich, on examination, AVC 
 found to have been erected in memory of some 
 Englishmen. Meanwhile, as night can 
 starlight and tranquil above from la\ 
 far-distant clouds, frequent Hashes of lightning, 
 unaccompanied by thunder, pla\ed in ziz-zag 
 coruscations, illumining and darkening the 
 horizon by tunis. Millions of fire-Hies c 
 the ground, and glittered to and fro through 
 the air, as though all " the motes that people 
 the sunbeams" by day were now lighted up 
 under the covering "f gloom. Our ea; 
 entertained Avith the chirping of crickets and 
 the buzz, the hum, and the drone of a great 
 variety of other insects. This harmony, how- 
 ever, was soon interrupted by the dismal yells 
 and screams of innumerable jackalls and Avoh cs, 
 sallying out of the jungles, prowling for prey, 
 alive or dead, about the streets of the town, or 
 through the adjacent country, down to the 
 banks of the river, and sometimes close to our 
 vessel. These lugubrious bowlings Avere sent 
 forttuby tits and starts, lasting about ten minutes 
 at a time ; then, for a little Avhile, all might be 
 stitt ; .but no sooner did one of the horde of 
 night-rovers give mouth than he AA T as answered 
 by a thousand horrid throats, rising in clamour to 
 the utmost pitch, then gradually sinking away, 
 to be renewed, in like manner, a hundred times 
 over, from nightfall to dawn. 
 
 On the 29th of June we anchored near the 
 Fakier's Rocks. Here is a conical hill, eighty 
 feet high, the foot of Avhieh is vvashcd by the 
 Ganges, and on either side this eminence is 
 
RIVER-SCENERYHINDOO MYTHOLOGICAL TRADITION. 
 
 235 
 
 girt with monstrous crags, very hard and re- 
 sembling granite. Not far thence, and stand- 
 ing in the channel of the river, is another stu- 
 pendous upright rock. Here the wind, blowing 
 in the direction of the stream, brought down so 
 strong a current that it was impossible to pro- 
 ceed against it. Several vessels were at anchor, 
 having been detained for nearly a week by this ad- 
 verse circumstance. Two days ago three Hindoo 
 keels, laden with cotton, got into this current, 
 and were wrecked ; the lives of the crews and 
 the cargoes being with difficulty saved. On the 
 day of our arrival we had the affliction of seeing 
 two others lost in the same way. The first of 
 these was hurried down the stream with uncon- 
 trollable violence, and struck upon the rocks, 
 when the poor creatures on board uttered a 
 dreadful shriek, thinking all was then over ; 
 but, before their little bark filled with water, 
 they had time to take to their boat, and to throw 
 a few articles of clothing into it as they leaped 
 from the sinking deck. Within two hours of 
 this disaster, another vessel, loaded with goods 
 belonging to the ' East India Company, was 
 caught in the same irresistible vortex, and 
 dashed on the same rocks ; but, being jammed 
 into a crevice, with her stern under water, the 
 crew had opportunity to effect their escape. 
 
 On the summit of the hill, at whose fatal base 
 hundreds, probably thousands, of such ship- 
 wrecks have occurred, is a Mahommedan 
 mosque, with three domes, which formerly be- 
 longed to an ascetic, who lived here in contem- 
 plative retirement. Though it is now a ruin, 
 and forsaken, its lofty exterior, as well as many 
 other relics of internal decoration, prove that it 
 has been a place of considerable grandeur and 
 extent. Near the mosque is a burial-ground, 
 while in many places, round the hill and on the 
 declivities, are fragments of towers and traces 
 of walls, all of brick, but finely wrought and 
 faced with durable cement. From this elevation 
 the prospect of land and water is the most 
 striking that we have seen in India. The mag- 
 nificent Ganges, rolling in its amplitude below 
 our feet, presents, at the distance of half a mile, 
 in the midst of its channel, another high rock, 
 already mentioned, crowned with a superb 
 Hindoo temple. Beyond this the river is trace- 
 able, in splendid reaches, through the whole 
 country. Towards the right the land is fiat, 
 but well adorned with trees, and thickly peopled, 
 and skirted with fine hills. 
 
 The insulated rock, with its idolatrous diadem, 
 forms one of the most singular and picturesque 
 objects in the world, according to the testimony 
 of those who have seen most of nature's curi- 
 osities by land and water. It is pretty evident 
 that this columnar mass has been separated 
 from the adjacent shore by the encroachments 
 of the Ganges, working its way behind an ob- 
 stacle which it had not force to remove, and 
 taking prisoner an opponent not otherwise to 
 be overcome. It is about a quarter of a mile 
 in circuit at the base, where many huge crags 
 rear their heads above the water. Over these 
 the great rock rises abruptly, but in such angles, 
 protuberances, and recessions, on their flanks, as 
 
 baffle all description. The height we could not 
 ascertain. Hindoo superstition and ingenuity 
 have made the most [of this singular pile, and 
 have constructed upon its summit a handsome 
 temple, of which the conical roof, conspicuous 
 from alar, terminates in a trident, the symbol of 
 Seeva, the destroyer. Various minor temples 
 are placed on the flanks, where there was room 
 to build, down to the water's edge ; also small 
 houses for the use of the Brahmins, and others, 
 who either reside on this holy mount or fre- 
 quent it. Wherever suitable surfaces presented 
 themselves, the rocks have been sculptured all 
 over, like Egyptian monuments, with mytho- 
 logical figures and characters, of which the rude 
 style and caricature-resemblances of the things 
 intended are the best recommendations, the 
 subjects being, in many instances, too gross to 
 be endured, except by eyes blinded by the god 
 of this world. Staircases are hewn upwards, 
 and along the slopes, in different directions, 
 from the water below to the several edifices on 
 this unique island, which is substantially one 
 huge stone. One of the very few fine mytho- 
 logical traditions of the Hindoos (most of their 
 fables being as monstrous as madmen's dreams, 
 or as silly as those of idiots) is, that in the be- 
 ginning of the world all the channels of the sea 
 were dry, impassable abysses, till Brahma^ in 
 mercy to mankind, poured out the Ganges rrom 
 heaven upon the earth ; which soon, with its per- 
 petual stream of sacred waters, filled up all the 
 void, and engirdled the land with the ocean. 
 
 Several women, with children in their arms, 
 presented themselves, from time to time, on the 
 shore, near our pinnace, begging with such im- 
 portunity and perseverance as would take no 
 repulse. We usually dismissed them, enriched 
 and delighted, by giving each woman two pice, 
 and each child one. A pice is the hundred artd 
 twentieth part of a dollar. But every necessary 
 of life here, where necessaries are few and 
 simple, is so cheap, that the wages of a servant, 
 even in Calcutta, are often not more than four 
 or five rupees a month, at two shillings sterling 
 the rupee ; out of which he provides house- 
 rent, food, and clothing, for himself and his 
 family. 
 
 Near Monghir we saw exposed on the bank, 
 as we sailed by, the dead body of a human 
 being, quite naked, partly in and partly out of 
 the water. On this a savage dog had fastened, 
 and was tearing the flesh from the bones with 
 no small appetite, while about forty hungry 
 vultures and a gigantic crane were keenly 
 watching for their turn, when he should have 
 sufficiently gorged himself; but, growing im- 
 patient, they ventured a little nearer than he 
 liked, when the dog bolted upon them in fury 
 and instantly put the whole covey to flight. 
 From Jelingy we entered the " Burra Gunga," 
 or Great Ganges. This is most truly a magni- 
 ficent river. The noble width of the channel, 
 the sea-like waves that frequently agitate the 
 vessels, of which great numbers are always in 
 sight, produce altogether a most powerful im- 
 pression on first entering this mass of yellow 
 water. 
 
236 
 
 BURNING OF A HINDOO CORPSE AN INDIAN SAINT. 
 
 July 11. Sailing close upon shore in the 
 vicinity of Patna, we had an opportunity of 
 being spectators at a Hindoo funeral. The 
 corpse of an old man was brought to the beach 
 upon a bier of bamboos, aud set down with the 
 face towards the sacred Gunga (Ganges), as it 
 is called. Presently a boat laden with wood for 
 the burning arrived ; and with this the pile was 
 formed, consisting principally of small sticks, 
 with some large logs, all very dry ; over which 
 four green boughs, one at each corner, were 
 placed. Two half cocoa-nut shells, containing 
 tire, were set on the ground to be ready for use. 
 Two muslin cloths, one white, the other crim- 
 son, which had concealed the body, but were 
 longer than necessary, were then each curtailed 
 at one end, when the pieces torn off Avere 
 divided in shreds among the kindred of the de- 
 ceased. The corpse, thus barely covered, was 
 brought to the water, and part of the head im- 
 merged, the nearest kinsman standing in the 
 stream and throwing handfuls of water over 
 the whole, till every limb was drenched ; after 
 which the red cloth was carefully raised and 
 smoothly adjusted over the body. This was 
 lifted again upon the bier, and from thence 
 stretched upon the pile, with the head towards 
 the river. Abundance of fuel was heaped above 
 and around, so as entirely to hide it, and the 
 whole encompassed with dry brushwood, that 
 might kindle at once when the flame should be 
 applied. But a long and furious altercation 
 ensued at this critical juncture ; the boatman 
 who had furnished the wood, sitting down by 
 the cocoa-nut shells, from which the fire was to 
 be taken, positively refused to let the ceremony 
 proceed till he had received payment for the 
 materials. His demand was two rupees (four 
 shillings), which being deemed too much by 
 the party, they strenuously resisted, but in 
 vain ; the fellow would not move till the money 
 was in his gripe. The nearest kinsman, then 
 tying about his loins the remnants of cloth that 
 had been rent from the shroud of the corpse, 
 stood prepared to do the last office of affection 
 for the deceased. A quantity of ghee (Indian 
 butter), resembling thick oil, being poured upon 
 the faggots, to make them burn more fiercely, 
 this person walked six times round the pile and 
 applied a brushwood torch to it in three or four 
 places, and soon the heap was in a blaze. He 
 then stepped into the river, and falling prostrate 
 towards the corpse, with his feet in the water 
 and his body along the sand, he set up a howl- 
 ing lamentation, which was accompanied by the 
 hard din of several conch-shells, blown by peo- 
 ple that stood near the funeral pyre, for about a 
 minute. After this he rose up and carefully 
 superintended the process of cremation. The 
 utmost pains were taken that every part of the 
 body and every fragment of wood should be 
 reduced to ashes. Some of the larger joints 
 however remained. When, the fire was nearly 
 extinct, the chief mourner and his relatives 
 threw water from the Ganges upon the embers 
 from cocoa-nut shells till the heap was saturated. 
 One large log having nearly escaped the flames, 
 he flung it into the river, and followed its 
 
 course, throwing water upon it with both his 
 hands, till, having reached the main current, it 
 was quickly borne away. All the relics of the 
 pile, wood and bones, were afterwards cast into 
 the same sacred depository ; and the ground on 
 which the holocaust had been made was washed 
 perfectly clean from every trace of defilement. 
 When all was over, the relatives retired from the 
 spot with much apparent solemnity, and* the 
 spectators quietly dispersed. Several Brahmins 
 were present, but took no part in the perform- 
 ance of the rite. 
 
 July 12. Within a few yards of the river on 
 our left stood one of those horrid figures called 
 a yogee an Indian saint a gentleman- beggar, 
 who had placed himself in a certain attitude, 
 from which he had vowed never to s\ver\e 
 during the remainder of his life, but spend his 
 existence in mental abstraction. He appeared 
 on a platform of earth, raised about eighteen 
 inches from the ground. At one end of this 
 mound (which might be seven feet long by five 
 broad) were erected two bamboos, sev a or 
 eight feet high, and sufficiently apart for him to 
 stand between them. At elbow-height a broad 
 board was placed across from the one bamboo 
 to the other ; and upon the middle of this 
 another piece of plank, two feet long by live 
 inches wide, was fixed, sloping upwards from 
 him. He, therefore, standing on the platform 
 and resting his arms upon the cross-bur, held 
 with his hands on each side of the upright 
 sloping board. He seemed to press equally on 
 either foot, leaning a little forward, with his 
 face turned rather aside and raised towards the 
 sun. His personal appearance was squalid and 
 miserable. His body was daubed all over with 
 blue mud ; his hair long, matted, discoloured 
 to a yellowish brown with exposure dangled 
 in all directions. His beard was bushy and 
 black, and the rest of his face so disfi- 
 gured with hair that it might be said to be all 
 beard. Not the slightest motion in one of his 
 limbs nor in a muscle of his countenance was 
 perceptible. He was altogether without clothing, 
 except a slip of brown stuff about the loins. He 
 wore the poita, or sacred thread, indicating that 
 he was a Brahmin. Night and day, it is under- 
 stood, the wretched sufferer (if indeed his state 
 can be'calledone of suffering) maintains without 
 any variation this paralysing position. However, 
 at the contrary end of the platform are four 
 upright bamboos, with a mat suspended upon 
 them, forming such a rude canopy as t ! 
 doos often sleep under : and at a short distance 
 there is another shelter of the same kind ; so 
 that it is not improbable the crafty mendicant 
 (like many of that fraternity in all countries, 
 who live by their miseries, but know how to 
 relax from them at due seasons), occasionally 
 at least takes the liberty to slip out of hi^ pil- 
 lory, and enjoy a restorative nap under the 
 darkness of night. It may be a question whe- 
 ther he is most a dupe to his own fanaticism, or 
 a deceiver of the credulity of others, 011 whose 
 charitable contributions he subsists. After all, 
 it may be no great penance for an idle fellow to 
 loll day and night in a wooden frame, especially 
 
A FUNERAL BY WATER BENARES. 
 
 237 
 
 if he be untroubled with thought which Hin- 
 doo abstraction necessarily implies and which, 
 without a quibble, is nothing at all if it be not 
 nothing at all, requiring the utter absorption of 
 every faculty and feeling the consummation of 
 felicity to which Brahma and Budhu alone of 
 all the three hundred and thirty thousand of 
 gods of India have attained ; with the ineffable 
 privilege of drawing their true followers into 
 the same beatitude of stupefaction. 
 
 July 14. A funeral by water, at which we 
 were present to-day, may be recorded, in con- 
 trast with the funeral by fire already described. 
 Perceiving a small company of persons carrying 
 a corpse among them on the shore, we landed 
 from our pinnace. The body, shrouded with a 
 figured shawl, which left the feet alone bare, 
 was that of a woman. A female who accom- 
 panied the corpse assisted the bearers to lay it 
 I under the water, leaving the face only above the 
 surface. After this immersion it was drawn 
 out and extended along the bank, with the feet 
 close to the last ripple of the stream. At our 
 request the husband uncovered the face and 
 showed what he had put into the mouth a 
 mixture of gold, silver, sugar, and ghee, to the 
 quantity of half a teaspoonful. This was a 
 kind of viaticum or passport to the other world. 
 The head and shoulders were then strewn over 
 with dry grass and palm-leaves, to which the 
 son of the deceased, a young man about twenty- 
 two years of age, set fire with a whisp of straw; 
 when the family and friends walked six times 
 round the corpse, till the momentary blaze went 
 out of itself, having done no apparent injury ; a 
 Brahmin meanwhile muttered something for a 
 prayer. The young man next, standing in the 
 river, threw water with his hands from that 
 sacred source to purify his mother's remains. 
 A boat passing by at this juncture was hailed, 
 and lay to, whereupon the husband and son fast- 
 ened to either arm of the deceased, by a yellow 
 string, a new earthen vessel with a narrow neck, 
 holding about two gallons each, and which had 
 never been used for any ordinary purpose. 
 They then took up the body and floated it till 
 they reached the boat, into which they got, but 
 kept their charge buoyant alongside till they 
 felt the motion of the mid-current. There, 
 where the stream was deep and strong, filling 
 both vessels with water, they let go their grasp, 
 and instantly the whole disappeared in the gulf 
 beneath. The son took the lead in all these 
 transactions, the husband being a mere occa- 
 sional auxiliary. Previous to the ceremony the 
 former had caused his head to be shaved on the 
 spot to purify himself for the mournful duties ; 
 yet neither he nor his father shed a tear, or 
 seemed any more affected than were the two 
 earthen jugs with which they sunk their nearest 
 relative to the bottom of the river. We might 
 be mistaken, but indifferentism, if not apathy, 
 is the characteristic trait of Hindoo counte- 
 nances on occasions the most likely to excite 
 the deepest and strongest emotions in human 
 hearts, however hardened or disciplined they 
 may be by brute habit or vain philosophy. 
 July 17. We anchored off Benares in the 
 
 evening. This city has long been celebrated as 
 the seat of Brahminical learning and Hindoo su- 
 perstition. It is of vast extent, and correspond- 
 ing wealth and magnificence, combined with the 
 usual proportion of poverty, filth, and wretched- 
 ness, as may be judged when we state that, ac- 
 cording to a census taken in 1803, there were 
 twelve thousand stone and brick houses, six- 
 teen thousand mud-walled ones, and a popula- 
 tion of five hundred and eighty-two thousand 
 souls. This number was exclusive of the retinue 
 and attendants of three resident Mogul princes 
 and several foreigners of distinction, who had 
 large establishments. After a lapse of twenty- 
 three years all these estimates must be increased 
 considerably ; and the inhabitants of Benares 
 may now be taken at six hundred and fifty 
 thousand. Approaching the city from the river 
 the greater part of it is seen at once, being built 
 on a moderate slope, across which it forms a 
 crescent. The cliffs which front the shore, being 
 thirty feet in elevation, give no mean eminence, 
 amidst a land of dead levels, to ground regularly 
 rising beyond them and covered with buildings, 
 among which are many public edifices of impe- 
 rial bulk and singularly splendid architecture. 
 The famous mosque of Aurengzebe, erected on 
 the site of a demolished Hindoo temple, is most 
 conspicuous, being two hundred and ten feet to 
 the top of the dome ; its two minarets, of vast 
 height and slender diameter, first strike the eye 
 in the distance, and, whatever objects beside at- 
 tract it for a while, to these it returns with un- 
 satisfied admiration. Wishing to proceed to 
 Allahabad (the extent of our present expedition) 
 we stayed only two days at Benares, lodging 
 at night in our pinnace", but otherwise availing 
 ourselves of the kindness of the Missionary of 
 our Society here, Mr. Adams, who, with his 
 excellent wife, showed us very acceptable atten- 
 tions. 
 
 Aug. 2. At Allahabad, seventy miles from Be- 
 nares, having letters of introduction, we were 
 politely received by Judge Colvin and other 
 gentlemen. This city stands at the confluence 
 of the Ganges and the Jumna, and is regarded 
 as one of the holiest of all the holy places of 
 Hindoo; resort, on account of the virtues of its 
 double stream. By some it is deemed so privi- 
 leged a spot, that whoever dies here may be 
 surely reckoned to have gone to Paradise. 
 From time immemorial, therefore, devotees have 
 been wont to come hither at the festivals for 
 that very purpose, who, that they might not fail, 
 in the first step at least, took the shortest road 
 out of this world. To that end an earthen ves- 
 sel, filled with sand, was fastened to each foot 
 of the voluntary victim, who, being placed on 
 the gunnel of a boat, was rowed to a particular 
 point in the main channel of the united rivers, 
 and there thrown overboard. Of course he sank 
 immediately. Several Brahmins were wont to 
 attend this solemnity, for such it was considered ; 
 and they, and an old woman who kept the boat 
 used on such occasions, made no small gain by 
 the delusion, which, therefore, they were anx- 
 ious to keep up as long as possible. When the 
 present upright and intelligent British judge 
 
238 
 
 SELF-IMMOLATION BARBERS AND BATHERS. 
 
 came to office here, he prohibited the Brahmins 
 from making any processions in such cases, and 
 the old woman from hiring musicians to attend 
 in her boat when miserable fanatics were pre- 
 disposed to destroy themselves. This broke up 
 the murderous custom ; the Brahmins were en- 
 raged, but could not help themselves ; while 
 the female Charon, whose business it was to 
 ferry souls about to be disembodied upon this 
 daylight branch of the Styx, raised a piteous 
 clamour about the loss of her occupation, say- 
 ing (in substance) with the spectre that appeared 
 to Burns 
 
 " Folk maun do something for their bread, 
 
 An' sae maun Death;" 
 
 pleading, moreover, that people had a right to 
 drown themselves whenever they pleased, as 
 their fathers had done before them. The judge 
 plainly replied, that if they thought fit to go and 
 drown themselves, they might do so for aught 
 that his ordinance included, but if the old wo- 
 man chose to help them she must take the con- 
 sequences. Not soon appeased, away she went 
 to Benares, and laid her grievance before the 
 supreme court ; but not obtaining the justice 
 which she wanted there, she returned chagrined 
 and disappointed. Since then the practice has 
 ceased altogether ; and not the smallest com- 
 motion has arisen among the natives from this 
 resolute interference with their evil superstition. 
 
 In one of the temples here we found a liv- 
 ing god a great brown baboon, who appeared 
 very little aware of the dignity of his state, and 
 quite as regardless of the profane honours that 
 were paid him. Several men were seated on 
 the pavement before him, bowing down, beat- 
 ing drums, and singing songs to the disgust ing 
 beast, who, to do both parties justice, seemed 
 quite as rational as his worshippers. 
 
 In another quarter of the city we were intro- 
 duced into a subterranean temple, dedicated to 
 an idol which we cannot name, but which is 
 more worshipped throughout India than all the 
 millions of other false gods put together. An 
 ancient female led the way, with a single lamp, 
 through a long dismal passage, about seven feet 
 high and six wide, at the extremity of which 
 was this sanctuary of abomination, literally a 
 " chamber of imagery," more than a hundred 
 and twenty feet long, and nearly half as broad. 
 The ceiling, which was not higher than that of 
 the passage, was supported by a very great 
 number of square stone pillars, in rows, form- 
 ing various dreary aisles, through v\hU'h tin- 
 glimmer of the lonely lamp, casting strange 
 black shades from all the stationary objects, as 
 we passed along, made darkness visible, and 
 peopled it with flitting phantoms. Multitudes 
 of images, some without heads, others without 
 bodies, and others again mutilated in various 
 ways (all equally good, and all as good as new), 
 were discoverable in recesses of the walls, and 
 on the floor, in the spaces between the 
 columns ; they were of the usual sizes and 
 shapes, standing, sitting, and lying. At length 
 the sibyl brought us to a place where there was 
 nothing to be seen but the forms of two human 
 feet, cut upon a flat stone. Here she set down 
 
 her lamp, and, squatting herself upon her heels, 
 by certain very significant motions gave us to 
 understand that here she expected to receive a 
 gratuity for having shown us the rarities of her 
 dungeon-temple. Half a rupee brought a smile 
 over her gaunt countenance, which certainly 
 made her appear the most beautiful object 
 among all that she exhibited. In one corner of 
 this noisome, dark, and filthy den, she pointed 
 out to us an " immortal tree." It was a bi- 
 forked stump, and actually had upon it a few 
 young and tender shoots. This also was a god ; 
 but, god or tree, that it could live and grow in 
 such an atmosphere was beyond our strength of 
 faith to receive ; and we were afterwards as- 
 sured that when one stock decays, or ceases to 
 germinate, another is substituted ; and this 
 change' though the roots of the incumbent are 
 daily watered, to keep up the semblance of 
 vegetable life takes place not much seldoraer 
 than once a year. The information was con- 
 firmed by the suspicious appearance of a cast- 
 away stump, of the kind, which we happened 
 to spy in another part of the temple. This is a 
 place of great resort, being antiquated also be- 
 yond the memory of man ; free ingress 
 lowed to the natives by the British government. 
 The Mahomincdans, it is said, levied a very 
 productive tax on admissions to it. 
 
 Some idea of the prodigious multitude of 
 pilgrims that annually visit this holy city may 
 be formed from the circumstance that there are 
 four hundred barbers in it, who are supported, 
 principally, by shaving the heads of bathers in 
 the sacred waters of the Jumna and the 
 Ganges; such purification bcin:r indispensable 
 before venturing upon an ablution which 
 posed to reach the very soul, and cleanse it iiom 
 all defilement. A tax is preposterously levied l>\ 
 the British government on each of these stran- 
 gers ; and, at festival- times, the office where it 
 is received, and licences to bathe are issued, is 
 thronged with eager applicants, who grudge no 
 labour, suffering, or expense that they may ob- 
 tain heaven by such means as are hen- required 
 for the purchase of it. 
 
 The very extensive and well-built fort of 
 Allahabad, and the ancient palace of the rajahs 
 of these regions, which seem one mass of build- 
 ing, and which stand on the point of land at 
 which the rivers meet, are seen at some dis- 
 tance as we ascend the Ganges, and give Alla- 
 habad an air of grandeur and ma<_ r nitieence, 
 which, when we travel through the rity, we do 
 not find sustained, either by the extent of the 
 population, or the houses, streets, or bazaars. 
 
 To the judge and magistrate, A. J. Colvin, 
 Esq., we were much indebted for his obliging 
 reception of us, and furnishing us with his 
 t> u gy, palanquin, &c., which enabled us to see 
 the place, temples, &c., to advantage. The 
 Hindoo temples and Mahommedan mosques 
 are here, as almost everywhere, numerous. 
 Some remarkably shocking instances of absurd 
 superstitious worship we saw whilst here. \\ < 
 happened to be visiting a very hundsomeh- 
 built stone temple, covered with well-executed 
 sculptures of their idols, holy persons, v\ 
 
SUPERB MAHOMMEDAN PROCESSION PRIVILEGED MONKEYS. 239 
 
 stone, of the highest relief. In this temple 
 are several stone idols representing the serpent 
 the cobra capella, or hooded snake. The 
 largest, which represents a serpent twelve feet 
 long, with five heads, and the hoods on all ex- 
 panded, coiled into a sort of Gordian knot, and 
 very well cut, is the principal object of worship 
 in this temple. While we were looking at this 
 stone snake, a horrid-looking man, unclothed, 
 rushed in (he was about twenty-five years old), 
 being covered with the ashes of burnt ordure, 
 aud his huge quantity of hair matted with mud- 
 dust. His eyes appeared inflamed : he bowed 
 before the serpent, then prostrated himself, 
 afterwards respectfully touched his head, looked 
 fixedly upon the serpent, prostrated himself 
 again, then touched it, and rushed out, as if in 
 a paroxysm of delight at the thought of having 
 worshipped this thing! When he got out of 
 the temple, he walked all round, within the 
 verandah, and, having once more bowed at the 
 door of the temple, he departed with a hurried 
 step. We cannot conceive of any human being 
 having more the appearance of a demoniac 
 than this miserable creature, who, nevertheless, 
 is regarded by the poor Hindoos as one of 
 the holiest of men. 
 
 Mr. Mackintosh informed us that, in this 
 part of India, there are now none of those 
 suttees, of which formerly there were many. 
 He observed that he never knew instances here 
 of infants being exposed in trees, or thrown 
 into the Ganges, nor of parents brought down 
 to the river, and, having their mouths, ears, 
 &c., filled with the mud of the Ganges, left to 
 die. But Mr. M. took us to see some tombs of 
 persons who had procured themselves to be 
 buried alive, as the most immediate way to 
 heaven. The last of these shocking interments 
 took place about seventy years ago. Another 
 horrid form of self-murder has happily been 
 put down by a regulation of the government, 
 and the wise and firm application of it by the 
 present truly worthy judge and magistrate, Mr. 
 Colvin, who said he had not suffered any one 
 to drown himself at the junction of the Ganges 
 and the Jumna ; having declared that, if any 
 one attends another, either with a boat or to 
 assist in tying on the earthen pots, or helps the 
 individual to throw himself into the river, the 
 person or persons so acting shall be regarded as 
 accessory to the murder, and be dealt with 
 accordingly. An instance of this self-drowning, 
 Mr. C. said, had not occurred since he has held 
 the government of Allahabad ; nor will he tole- 
 rate either these or any other cruelties which it 
 is in his power to prevent. 
 
 Aug. 12. On our return to Benares we were 
 in time to witness the most superb procession 
 which we have yet seen in India. There were 
 in it twelve elephants, richly caparisoned, each 
 carrying four men ; also six camels, finely 
 bedizened and mounted ; after which came 
 many horses, not less sumptuously appointed, 
 some having riders, and others being led. 
 Bands of musicians, with a posse of attendants 
 and gazers, accompanied this truly oriental 
 spectacle. On inquiring the occasion, we were 
 
 informed that it was in honour of a Mahom- 
 medan festival, and given by a widow of that 
 profession, who had lived on .loose terms with 
 a wealthy European, over whom she had exer- 
 cised such influence, that, at his death, he left 
 her nearly the whole of his immense property. 
 Among other temples, in the city and neigh- 
 bourhood, which we visited, was a famous one 
 of Doorga. The image of the goddess is 
 nothing more than a small medallion of a 
 female face, of a gold colour, fixed in the wall, 
 ornamented round about with tinsel, and hav- 
 ing a lamp on one side. Two Brahmins, seated 
 near this representation, were receiving and 
 offering the gifts of the people, which were 
 merely chaplets, or handfuls of white flowers, 
 or green foliage. These were thrown down 
 upon the ground. Many persons were coming 
 and going, some of whom prostrated themselves 
 before venturing within the door. In the outer 
 court a sacred bull was couched at his ease, 
 chewing the cud, but, though he lay directly in 
 the way, none ventured to disturb his rumina- 
 tion. The precincts of this temple are more 
 lively than such places usually are, on account 
 of the number and activity of the monkeys 
 which frequent them, and which are said to 
 have first flocked hither when the temple was 
 opened a circumstance which the superstitious 
 builders would naturally interpret into a happy 
 omen. There are several large and ancient 
 trees at hand, some of which with their 
 foliage overshadow the walls. On the branches 
 of these, on the roof of the edifice, and on the 
 top of the surrounding piazzas, multitudes of 
 these impertinent animals, tame, quite at home, 
 and conscious of their perfect impunity, are to 
 be seen playing their tricks, up and down, 
 here, there, and everywhere. Some of the 
 elder and graver ones were lounging on the 
 companion-places, watching the gambols of 
 their fraternity above, but, with more interest 
 (from selfish but laudable motives), the less ex- 
 hilarating mummeries of those who, to them, 
 might appear kinsfolks below the priests and 
 the votaries of Doorga ; for many of the latter, 
 after presenting flowers and leaves to the god- 
 dess, threw offerings, more savoury and not 
 less acceptable (sweetmeats), to the monkeys 
 in her train. The habits of the females, in 
 nursing their cubs, were very amusing, and as 
 these chartered denizens of the sacred domain 
 are fearlessly familiar, we might approach near 
 enough distinctly to observe their actions. 
 Some of them had young ones not more than a 
 few days old ; others were training up their 
 progeny, through all the stages of adolescence, 
 up to monkey's estate. The dams were exceed- 
 ingly vigilant and affectionate in performing 
 their duties, and kept their little ones generally 
 within reach of their hand, and always of their 
 eye. While swinging about on the boughs of 
 the trees, or scampering along the walls, if a 
 giddy thing attempted to get too far from her, 
 the dam darted forth her paw, caught it by the 
 tail, or, if the tail slipped through her fingers, 
 laid hold of a leg, and gently pulled the truant 
 back. On any alarm, or disturbance, she hud- 
 
240 
 
 TERMAGANTS DEPARTURE FROM BENARES. 
 
 died it instantaneously to her breast, the little 
 one seized the teat in its mouth, elapsed its 
 arms and legs round her body, and remained 
 closely attached, while she ran up the trunk of 
 a tree, or sought security on the extremity of a 
 branch. Frequently the cubs mounted on 
 their mother's shoulders, back again, frisked or 
 lay down, at a growl, a beck, or a grin for she 
 seemed to rule by a set of nursery-signals, well 
 understood. 
 
 Some of the women in Benares are inveterate 
 shrews ; such, no doubt, there may be elsewhere, 
 but here we have particularly remarked it. 
 The tongue, however, is the main weapon (for 
 they rarely come to blows), and fearfully expert 
 are they in using it, for the annoyance not of 
 their antagonists only, but of all who have the 
 misfortune to come within " the wind of such 
 commotion." Downright scolding-matches are 
 kept up for hours in the market-places among 
 those who deal in commodities there. If do- 
 mestic, or other business call oft" one of the com- 
 batants before the affair is duly settled, she 
 coolly thrusts her shoe under her basket, and 
 leaves both on the spot, to signify that she is 
 not yet satisfied. Immediately upon her return, 
 the lady takes up her shoe and her argument, 
 and begins where she broke off, nor ever ceases 
 till she has exhausted her spleen, her strength, 
 and her vocabulary of foul phrases, or obtained 
 from the object of her vengeance the satisfaction 
 required. 
 
 But the sex here, as might be expected, have 
 a passion far more universal than the love of 
 termagancy the love of finery. Fashion can 
 make anything beautiful or becoming in tin- 
 eyes of*its votaries, otherwise one would think 
 that the preposterous rings and other append- 
 ages, which many of the females attach to their 
 noses to say nothing of pendants to the cat- 
 like clock-weights, or garniture going all round 
 it, like the numerals on a dial-plate would be 
 deemed disfigurements rather than embellish- 
 ments of genuine loveliness ; but here such out- 
 rages upon nature are so common as scarcely to 
 appear such after a little familiarity with them. 
 Besides these, the women wear as many gold, 
 silver, or copper rings as they can afford upon 
 their wrists and arms, up to the shoulders. A 
 metal knob suspended by a string, and dangling 
 to and fro as they walk, is also a favourite orna- 
 ment. Their breasts and arms are tatooed, after 
 the manner of the South Sea Islanders, with 
 curious if not seemly devices, which are often 
 well executed. The hair is generally divided 
 upon the forehead, where a red line is drawn, 
 besides the mark of caste down the nose, and 
 some fanciful patch of colouring above. The 
 lower limbs are not less loaded than the upper 
 with manacles of fashion ; ponderous links of 
 which are placed round the ancles, and lesser 
 ones upon the great toes; the latter rising in a 
 conical form to the height of an inch and more. 
 Their heads being generally covered with cloth 
 of some kind, the mode of wearing the mass of 
 hair is not much apparent ; but many tie it in a 
 knot behind. One of the finishing touches of 
 beauty is to blacken the eyelids and lashes, 
 
 which to us appeared the last mockery of ugli- 
 ness, defacing countenances sufficiently disagree- 
 able before. The men often wear necklaces 
 and strings of beads, which they employ to keep 
 the reckoning of their prayers and ejaculations 
 at their devotions : but they seldom employ any 
 other fopperies, and never tatoo their bodies. 
 
 Benares contains a population of nearly 
 700,000 souls, Hindoos and Mahommedans, be- 
 sides an immense accession of pilgrims at par- 
 ticular seasons of the year. It is the most cele- 
 brated of the holy eastern cities, and for beauty, 
 majesty, and novelty, as it is first seen, sweeping 
 to a great extent along a noble reach of the 
 river, can scarcely be surpassed ; its numerous 
 proud and picturesque ghauts, temples, mosques, 
 and other buildings, forming the arch of a grand 
 semicircle. 
 
 CHAPTER XLV. 
 
 Departure from Benares Farm-estul>li-hnient Monu- 
 ment at 1'atua Ifoat swamped- Hot Sprit,. 
 Monghir Singular Superstition An Kntertainini-nt 
 'Worship of Working-took Riding on F.lephair. 
 city of those Animals Hindoo and Malu>nimedan < >aihs 
 Indifference of Criminals to the Sent 
 them Infanticide of Ordnanee The 
 
 Adjutant-rrane Festival of Door-a The Hull-god 
 Tongue boring Worship of a Mack Stone. 
 
 1826. AUG. 31. We left Benares on the 24th, and 
 having moored ofFDega, near Dinapore, for the 
 night of this date, we took the opportunity of 
 visiting the farm of Messrs. Howell and Son 
 an establishment so thoroughly English in cha- 
 racter, that there was scarcely anything in our 
 own country of which we were not reminded 
 by some counterpart or other on th- 
 Here are extensive flower and kitchen gardens, 
 in which most of our native fruit-; and vegetables 
 are carefully cultivated. In one part stands a 
 large open building, with a tank full of 
 on \\liich a great number of teals, young and 
 old, were sailing to and fro ; in another 
 cious piggery, where multitudes of ho_ 
 wallowing in all the luxury of indolci. 
 plenty; the beautiful birds and the irro-s swine 
 being alike pampered, according to their habits, 
 for the market and the table. A third and 
 fourth arrangement consisted of stabl< 
 yards for horned cattle and horses, of each of 
 which were many valuable ones. A fifth enclo- 
 sure presented a deer-park ; fish- ponds, abun- 
 dantly stored, and menageries for a great diver- 
 sity of fowls, were likewise included in the round 
 of accommodations ; on the entrance to which 
 might indeed have been inscribed the old road- 
 side-inn motto, " Good entertainment for man 
 and beast." Besides these, there was what 
 might be called " the victualling-office," a con- 
 venient building for curing beef and pork, also 
 a well-furnished store-room for pickles and pre- 
 serves ; a cotton-warehouse ; a shop for all kinds 
 of European articles, including jewellery, glass, 
 stationery, &c. &c., splendidly displayed. In 
 suitable places we observed sheds tor carpentry, 
 turnery, and smith's-work ; a metal-foundry, 
 and a lanyard ; the bark used in the latter 
 being from a tree of this country. In fact, this 
 poly technical establishment comprehends the 
 
CITY OF PATNA HINDOO IDOL. 
 
 241 
 
 means for carrying on every ordinary trade, and 
 for supplying every peculiar want which foreign- 
 ers here must feel in a land so different from 
 their own. The dwelling-house of the propri- 
 etors, a very handsome edifice, stands in the centre 
 of the premises, which are a mile in circuit. 
 
 Sept. 1. At Patna, among other objects that 
 attracted our attention, we were particularly 
 struck, in the foreign burying-ground, with the 
 appearance of a monument in commemoration 
 of the massacre, in cold blood, of two hun- 
 dred European prisoners at this place in the 
 year 1763, by a German adventurer, then in 
 the service of Meer Cossim. On a square pe- 
 destal stands a stately column, fifty feet in 
 height, ornamented with five fillets, which pro- 
 ject considerably from the shaft, and having a 
 well-executed capital. There is no inscription ; 
 but he who asks why this stone has been raised 
 may find thousands of voices to answer, in 
 words which will probably outlast the pillar 
 itself. 
 
 We stayed a day or two at this very ancient 
 city, both as w- went up and descended the 
 riser. The Hon. Judge Douglas (to whom 
 
 we had a letter of introduction from his niece, 
 Lady Brisbane, of New South Wales) received 
 us very kindly, and furnished us with palanquins 
 and attendants, that we might see this curious 
 and interesting city, whose entire population of 
 250,000 souls are as yet uncared for by Christ- 
 ians of any denomination ; only we understood 
 that incidentally a Baptist native Christian has 
 gone to see them. Morning, evening, and at 
 noon, we saw countless multitudes performing 
 their ablutions and devotions in the sacred river ; 
 and under almost every green tree they had some 
 idolatrous object of worship. Some of their 
 stone and other gods, to which we saw them 
 presenting offerings, and on which we observed 
 them pouring libations, we succeeded in pur- 
 chasing from one of their priests ; and these we 
 h:iM- with us, that our privileged fellow- Christ- 
 ians of Britain may see additional instances of 
 what contemptible things these poor Hindoos 
 are contented to put their trust in, and pay 
 their adorations unto. The city of Patna is, by 
 the course of the river, about 550 miles above 
 Calcutta. The Ganges is about five miles wide 
 here. 
 
 Hindoo Idol. 
 
242 
 
 HOT SPRING NEAR MONGHIR WORSHIP OF WORKING-TOOLS. 
 
 Sept. 3. We reached Monghir by sunset. 
 The current being very strong and rapid off the 
 old fort here, the boat which towed our pinnace 
 across the river came under the lee side of her, 
 and was instantly sunk with five or six of her 
 crew. Happily, however, they all got on board 
 without injury, and the boat was afterwards re- 
 covered. Thus again hath the good hand of our 
 God been upon us, to ward off danger, ever 
 near, yet always kept at sufficient distance not 
 to harm us. 
 
 Near Monghir is a famous hot spring, called 
 Seeta Koond, from the act of a Hindoo goddess, 
 who, being accused by her husband of infidelity, 
 absolved herself by offering to take an oath of 
 her innocence, and, as a pledge of its truth, 
 giving him the choice whether a hot spring or 
 a cold one should spout forth on the spot. He, 
 being of a cold temperament, chose the former ; 
 and no sooner had his wife sworn than up bub- 
 bled this fountain, which a hundred ages had 
 not been able to cool. The water is limpid and 
 tasteless, and esteemed so pure that it is not only 
 sought for drinking at table by the better classes 
 of inhabitants, but stored for \oyages, under the 
 idea that it will keep better than any other. We 
 found the temperature at 132, but it varies in 
 different parts of the well, which is enclosed in 
 a brick cistern, thirty- four feet in length by 
 twenty-nine in breadth, having steps to the bot- 
 tom, which appears to be from five to six feet in 
 depth. 
 
 Sept. 12. At Burhampore the Mahommed- 
 ans (as indeed throughout India) are childishly 
 superstitious, and their belief in the potency of 
 charms and witchcraft equals anything among 
 the pagans of the South Sea and Sandwich 
 Islands. Here they practise a singular kind of 
 ordeal. There is a tradition that, at some 
 remote 'period, four righteous kings reigned in 
 India at the same time, who coined rupees of a 
 particular die. These are now become exceed- 
 ingly rare and precious, for their virtue rather 
 I than their value, the royal saints h:i\ing be- 
 queathed their personal holiness to these their 
 silver representatives. When a theft, or other 
 public offence, has been committed, and several 
 individuals are suspected, in order to find out the 
 real criminal one of these sacred rupees is put 
 into the balance against its exact weight of rice ; 
 and that quantity of the grain being delivered 
 to each of the persons on test, he is required to 
 put it into his mouth. Those who are innocent, 
 it is said, will return it well masticated and 
 moistened with saliva ; but from the lips of the 
 guilty it will come out in dry powder. Instances 
 of the success of this ingenious experiment have 
 been mentioned to us, which there is small rea- 
 son to question, since the very fear of detection 
 may so effectually parch the tongue and palate 
 as to answer the general purpose with a timid 
 and superstitious people. 
 
 Sept. 14. We dined with the nawaub (nabob) 
 of Moorshedabad, in company with most of the 
 distinguished Europeans, civil and military, at 
 this station. The entertainment was exceed- 
 ingly sumptuous and profuse. W r e were first 
 received in an open tent, in. front of which 
 
 pantomimes and dances were exhibited ; after- 
 wards the nawaub, a youth about sixteen yc-ir^ 
 of age, led the way into the palace, and, though 
 he ate nothing himself, sat at the head of tin- 
 principal table, in a dress of the most splendid 
 costume, brilliantly adorned with diamonds and 
 pearls, in long chains and knots, among which 
 an emerald, of extraordinary size and beauty, 
 was remarkable. The feast was set out in seve- 
 ral rooms, all of which were crowded wit ! . 
 and the great officers of the prince's court. In 
 the evening there were illuminations and fire- 
 works, on a scale of magnificence which we 
 had never seen or imagined. These, which 
 were exhibited on the river and its banks, con- 
 sisted not of unmeaning displays of flame and 
 light, but they very picturesquely (we might say 
 very poetically) represented battles, sieges, and 
 sea-fights, with a measure of grandeur and ter- 
 ror, amidst surround ing darkness, which power- 
 fully affected spectators like ourselves, to whom 
 the mimic belligerency appeared at once novel 
 and real. In retiring, the nawaub, who stood at 
 one extremity of a handsome apartment to take 
 leave of his guests, presented, with his own 
 hands, a curious necklace of silver wire to each 
 lady as she went out, and put a small quantity 
 of attar of roses upon her handkerchief. Similar 
 necklaces were thrown by his Highness over 
 the heads of several of the gentlemen, among 
 whom the Deputation were thus honoured. 
 
 Sept. 15. A blacksmith who had been em- 
 ployed yesterday on the Mission pi< 
 fetched away his tools this morning for the pur- 
 pose of worshipping them, this hein<: the day 
 on which the Hindoos pay divine honours to 
 the implements of their various trades : tin- 
 files and hammers of the smith, the chisels and 
 saws of the carpenter, the diamond of the gla- 
 zier, the crucible of the goldsmith, &c. &c., all 
 become idols on this anniversary. Thus do 
 they resemble those of old, who" sacrificed to 
 their net, and burnt incense to their drag. 
 
 Sept. 18. In traversing the city and neigh- 
 bourhood to-day we were each mounted upon 
 an elephant, and seated in a hoiulah, or tent, 
 upon its back. The motion to us was irksome, 
 being slow, and the pace long. The caution of 
 these animals in passing upon any infirm or 
 dangerous ground, is so great as even to In tray 
 timidity. They frequently cannot be pre\ ailed 
 upon to venture upon the slight bamboo bridges, 
 for instance, which are common here. We had 
 to cross a small one, over a mere ditch ; but the 
 ends of some of the bamboos appearing, the 
 animal hesitated, slackened its pace, and tried 
 the strength of the support by putting first one 
 foot upon it and then another, before it would 
 trust its whole enormous bulk. In goii;. 
 loose or boggy soil, they thrust the end of their 
 trunk down to the bottom, to gauge the depth 
 for solid footing ; and thus they stalk along, 
 sounding their way. The beasts on which we 
 rode were full grown, so that we seemed to look 
 down from a moving hill, along the flaiik 
 over the head ; but they were docile enough to 
 be guided by the driver, a>tride upon the neck. 
 with a touch or a word, and rarely required a 
 
AN ELEPHANT'S REVENGE INFANTICIDE. 
 
 243 
 
 hint from the goad which he held in his hand 
 In marching through some of the narrow streets, 
 their rounded sides nearly came in contact with 
 the buildings. When they approached a corner, 
 they always made a loud noise, that people or 
 cattle might get out of the way, and no sooner 
 was this warning heard than passengers and 
 animals scampered off to make room, where 
 there could he no disputing for the right of 
 road. We must honestly add that these, our 
 majestic hearers, were complete freebooters, 
 seizing food which they liked wherever they 
 could reach it. Not content with breaking off 
 the branches of trees that overhung their path, 
 and plants that grew on walls fourteen or fifteen 
 feet high which they easily did with their 
 trunks one of them laid hold of a bundle of 
 green sugar-cane, which he drew out of a cart, 
 and eagerly devoured it: the poor man to whom 
 the property belonged complained loudly of the 
 theft, but this gave no concern to the elephant, 
 and as little to the driver. In another place, 
 while passing a shop where grain was sold, the 
 "lithe proboscis" was plunged unceremo- 
 niously into a basket, and as much as it could 
 hold laded out into the ready mouth below, 
 without the pilferer halting an instant. If al- 
 lowed to stop for a moment or two where there 
 was grass, he twisted his trunk round as much 
 as he could gather within its grasp, tore it up, 
 roots and soil together, and, with the horny toes 
 of his fore-feet, carefully beat away all the earth 
 from it before he put the morsel into his mouth. 
 The trunk, indeed, is an admirably appropriate 
 member of the unwieldy body to which it is 
 attached, combining strength and flexibility in 
 an extraordinary degree ; while the eye, quick 
 and piercing, is ever on the scout, and regulates 
 all the creature's motions. The elephant in its 
 domestic state endears itself to all its acquaint- 
 ance by its gentleness, sagacity, and tractable 
 disposition. In travelling, it often carries a 
 large leafy bough upon its trunk, with which it 
 can drive off the teasing insects from the fore 
 parts of its body ; while with its tail, which is 
 long and bushy, and almost as flexible as the 
 proboscis, it keeps clear its hind quarters. 
 
 At Moorshedabad we were told that a gen- 
 tleman had a young elephant, which, being 
 allowed to roam at large about his premises, 
 one day entered the dining-room, where a large 
 company were assembled. Being treated with 
 a biscuit from one person, a piece of bread from 
 another, and a sweetmeat from a third, it went 
 all round the table, levying contributions, till it 
 came to a young gentlemen who pricked the 
 end of its proboscis with his toothpick. The 
 insulted animal retired immediately, but soon 
 returned, and raising its trunk blew out of it, 
 full into the offender's face, thousands of ants, 
 which it had collected from a nest hard by, 
 whither it had repaired for the means of ven- 
 geance. 
 
 Elephants sometimes become blind, yet con- 
 tinue to be nearly as useful as when they could 
 see ; their surprising sagacity, their delicacy of 
 touch, and probably of smell, amply compen- 
 sating for loss of vision. An old bridge having 
 
 been broken down, and a new one erected near 
 the same site, a blind elephant was driven to 
 the place, to try whether he would go over that 
 which was dilapidated ; but no sooner did he 
 approach the ruin than he turned back, and no- 
 thing could induce him to proceed. Where 
 they doubt the security of the ground, they keep 
 their trunks nearly close to it, and thus ascer- 
 tain their footing at every step. The natives 
 value their elephants by their tails, which are 
 long and lithe, and can be spontaneously knot- 
 ted into a ring, and untied again. The estimate 
 is made according to the perfection of the hairs 
 on this appendage, which are like copper wire, 
 and stand upon the opposite sides as the bris- 
 tles of a brush. If an elephant, in an encounter 
 with a tiger, has lost his tail, his worth in the 
 market is thereby greatly reduced. 
 
 Sept. 22. Attending a court of justice, we 
 observed the manner in which Hindoo and 
 Mahommedan witnesses are sworn, respectively. 
 When the Hindoo was placed at the bar, a cop- 
 per vessel (copper is deemed a sacred metal), 
 the size of a tea-saucer, was presented to him, 
 containing some water from the sacred Ganges, 
 and a few leaves from a sacred plant. This he 
 held flat on the palms of both his hands all the 
 time that he was under examination, and con- 
 sequently regarded himself as swearing by 
 Gunga the Holy River to the truth of all his 
 words. Some Hindoos of the higher castes, it 
 is said, will not take this oath under any cir- 
 cumstance, deeming it a profanation. The 
 Mussulman, in like manner, held a copy of the 
 Koran, wrapped in a cloth, which was laid upon 
 his hands, while he answered the questions that 
 were put to him. 
 
 The Hindoos, in general, are stupidly passive 
 to the sentences of law passed upon them. A 
 criminal, being condemned to be hanged on the 
 following day, made a low salaam to the judge, 
 and coolly replied, " Bhote h/wob" "very 
 good." Another, when asked if there was any- 
 thing which he particularly wished before leav- 
 ing the world, answered, " Yes ; I never saw a 
 great heap of rupees together, and of all things 
 I should like to have that pleasure before I 
 die." A third, when the same question was 
 addressed to him, longed for something more 
 substantial. He said, "Your food is much 
 better than mine ; now, before you hang me, 
 
 iy i^ive me such a good dinner as you have." 
 The indulgence was granted, and he ate with 
 no small appetite. A convict was informed 
 with due solemnity that his punishment must 
 be eight years of imprisonment. " Ten, if you 
 please!" cried the poor fellow, anxiously. He 
 was told again that eight was the judgment of 
 the court. But he persisted in his request, cry- 
 ng, " No, no ; ten, ten, if you please 1" " Why 
 so 1" demanded the judge. " Because," re- 
 turned the shrewd calculator, " I am fifty years 
 old ; I shall live to be sixty ; and if I am turned 
 out of gaol at the end of eight, how am I to live 
 the other two 1" 
 
 The sacrifice of infants, by throwing them 
 nto the Ganges, was very common here (indeed 
 t was so along the whole course of the sacred 
 
 R 2 
 
244 
 
 SACRED CANNON FESTIVAL OF DOORGA. 
 
 river), till the practice was made a capital of- 
 fence, punishable with death, by the British 
 government. A frightful outrage of this kind 
 not long ago occurred near Cutwa. 
 
 In a village near this city we saw what yet 
 appears above ground of an immense brass can- 
 non, seventeen feet and a half long, twenty-one 
 inches in diameter at the muzzle, and enlarging 
 proportionately towards the breech ; the calibre 
 is six inches. On the upper surface are several 
 large rings, and a Persian inscription, of which 
 we have not preserved a copy. This prodigious 
 piece of ordnance was mounted upon a carriage 
 of wood and iron ; but a large tree has been 
 springing up, about and underneath it, till it is 
 no longer possible to move the cannon without 
 destroying the plant, whose roots have com- 
 pletely enveloped and upheaved the lower part, 
 and whose growth, in due time, will undoubt- 
 edly embed the whole mass. The Hindoos 
 have deified this inert and impotent engine of 
 destruction, having placed an idol at one extre- 
 mity, which they worship. They have a tradi- 
 tion that when this cannon is fired the world 
 will come to an end, and, from present appear- 
 ances, it is not likely to be fired before then. 
 
 Sept. 24. One of the gigantic cranes (ardea 
 dubia), commonly called adjutants, from their 
 soldier-like walk, was brought to us. The 
 breadth, from tip to tip of the extended win.---, 
 measured not less than eleven feet; the length, 
 from the point of the bill to the end of the 
 tail, was four feet, including twelve inches 
 for the bill itself; the legs were a yard in 
 height. The plumage on the back was a light 
 blue (in some specimens dark brown), on 
 the belly white ; the bill a ding)- white ; the 
 iris sky-blue, and the eye quick and keen. 
 The throat is capable of such prodigious expan- 
 sion as to swallow, whole, the body of a cat, 
 or a small dog. "We tried an experiment with 
 one of these gluttons, when it bolted, with per- 
 fect ease, the entire leg of a kid. The peculiar 
 feature of this crane is a membranous pouch, 
 of a reddish colour, occasionally let down from 
 the neck, which, being inflated with air, pre- 
 sents a cylinder fourteen or fifteen inches long, 
 and three or four in diameter. Many small 
 apertures, each equal to a pin's head, commu- 
 nicate between the windpipe and this append- 
 age, of which the precise use is not known. 
 The pouch is without feathers, and is generally 
 gathered up about the neck. In very hot wea- 
 ther this bird is wont to soar to an invisible 
 height in the atmosphere, for the purpose of 
 enjoying a cooler temperature, when it seems 
 probable that the expanded pouch enables it to 
 maintain its buoyancy, or in some way assists 
 in the functions of flight or respiration. The 
 adjutant- crane is a privileged carrion-eater 
 throughout India, preying on all kinds of offal 
 in the streets of the most populous cities, and 
 collecting no small part of its sustenance from 
 the floating corpses which may be said to people 
 the Ganges, the Hooghly, and the Jumna. It 
 builds its nest in lofty trees, sliirhtly putting a 
 few sticks across each other, on which to deposit 
 its eggs. In the breeding season the female 
 
 becomes so fierce that no man may approach 
 her, except at his peril ; the long bill, as an 
 offensive weapon, being scarcely less formidable 
 than a broad- sword in the hands of a powerful 
 warrior of which the following proof has been 
 mentioned to us. A man was carrying a leg of 
 mutton upon his head, when an adjutant-crane, 
 too eagerly darting to seize so precious a quarry, 
 missed its aim, and grasped the neck of the 
 poor fellow, between the serrated mandibles of 
 its beak, with such savage ferocity as to cut it 
 nearly asunder, and kill him upon the spot. 
 
 Oct. 9. Being at Chinsurah, during the festival 
 of the Doorga the Goddess of Nature we saw 
 heathenism at the height of its madm 
 the palace of an opulent baboo, an idol with ten 
 arms, manufactured for the occasion at an ex- 
 pense of five hundred rupees, was placed in the 
 recess of a superb apartment, used as a temple. 
 The, image, not yet having been consecrated, 
 was said to be blind ; but a small hole \\ 
 in one of the eyes, through which the divinity 
 was supposed t<> enter ;it a particular cri-is of 
 the rites, when the orifice Mas immediately 
 closed, and she was shut in; not long h 
 to remain a prisoner there, for soon afterwards 
 the idol itself was broken to pieces, ami cast 
 into the Ganges, with many others, carved for 
 this particular festival, and by the -air of which 
 the craftsmen make no small train. Before the 
 sanctuary was a spacious area, about the middle 
 of which a stump of wood w:i> fixed in the 
 ground, having a notch in the top of it wide 
 enough to admit the necks of kids or lambs, 
 when slain for offerings ; across which th- 
 an iron bolt, to confine the animal, with the 
 head projected, as through the loop-hole of a 
 pillory. Ue\ond this was another stonier ap- 
 paratus of the same kind, with an opening wide 
 enough to secure the necks of \uui,- buiftteco. 
 These two stakes were, in fact, " the horns of 
 the altar," a mound of earth being rai- 
 that side of each over which the animal 
 be stretched to receive the mortal stroke. For 
 tliis :i tremendous knife, something like a bill- 
 hook, four feet in length (including a short 
 handle), and very broad, strong, and sharp, w;is 
 provided. This slaughtt rinir-piace was sur- 
 rounded witli po<ts and railing, to which were 
 bound two buffaloes, the one about tw< 
 and the other fifteen months old, also four 
 kids and a lamb, all males. The horns of the 
 buffaloes were painted red, and trarlanded 
 with foliage; their bodies v 
 sprinkled with water from the Cannes, and an 
 infusion of turmeric poured upon their 
 A few green leaves were strown on the 
 ground under their bellies, and a yellow cloth 
 cast over their backs; after which the man 
 who was to be executioner on the or 
 lightly drew the great knife across the i 
 each of the intended victims. The four kids 
 and the lamb, one after the other, were then 
 brought forward, and their bodies beini: *t : 
 across the earthen altar, and their necks ; '.. 
 within the forked stake, each in turn was de- 
 capitated by a single blow. The moment the 
 head fell a Brahmin snatched it up and ran to 
 
ANIMAL SACRIFICES DEPUTATION SAIL FOR MADRAS. 
 
 245 
 
 present it to the idol. Another Brahmin took 
 up the body, and held it while the blood flowed 
 into a sacred copper vessel, lined with plantain- 
 leaves. Immediately before the knife descended, 
 at a given signal, a terrible din of gongs and 
 drums, accompanied by a loud shout of the 
 multitude, was raised on every hand, which 
 continued till the head had been laid before the 
 idol. When the five smaller animals had been 
 despatched, a piece of the flesh of each was cut 
 out of the carcase, and thrown into the dish that 
 had received its blood, and the whole was set 
 recking before the shrine where they heads were. 
 The lesser stake was then pulled up, the earthen 
 altar repaired, and a large gourd, with a streak 
 of red paint, was placed upon it. This was 
 split in two, and both ends being thrown aside, 
 seven sugar-canes were, in like manner, first laid 
 upon the altar, and each cut in two. These 
 were to represent offerings of the fruits of the 
 soil. The larger buffalo was then led within 
 the enclosure, and his neck fixed within the fork 
 of the stronger stake ; while, by means of ropes 
 fastened to all his legs, his body was drawn out, 
 and held down upon the earthen mound, or 
 ;il tar. The sacrificer, a blacksmith, a man of 
 mighty bone and muscle, then fetched the knife 
 with 'great formality from before the idol, where it 
 had been laid with each of the former offerings. 
 For a few moments ho looked with intense ear- 
 
 M towards the image of Doorga, as though 
 imploring the might of her ten arms to aid his 
 two ; every eye was fixed on him, and every face 
 expressed a strange solicitude for the sequel, as 
 tin- canon law in such case requires that the head 
 of the victim shall fall under one blow ; for, if 
 this be not effected, the omen would be deemed 
 most unfortunate, and the sacrificer would be 
 driven away with scorn and cursing from the 
 place. The blacksmith, however, on this occa- 
 sion failed not ; having deliberately taken aim 
 and lifted the terrible instrument, one moment 
 we saw it gleaming through the air, and the next 
 it was crimsoned and reeking with blood from 
 the slain beast; the head of which was immedi- 
 ately caught up and presented to the idol. Mean- 
 while the people shouted and danced hugged 
 in their arms, and crowned with a chaplet of 
 
 ' lie brawny slaughterman, as a benefactor 
 of their country. Presently, however, a grand 
 struggle took place for the body of the buffalo, 
 which was dragged away by the strongest party 
 in triumph, as lawful spoil. The second bullock 
 was beheaded with the same good luck ; but the 
 body of this was seized by a number of women, 
 who fought with Amazonian fury for the pos- 
 session of it. Many men and boys afterwards 
 pn-->ed forward to dip their hands in the blood, 
 as it lay in pools on the ground, marking with 
 it their temples and various parts of their bodies. 
 A lighted lamp was then placed on the head of 
 each of the victims, and one of the Brahmins 
 began to mutter over it his prayers or incanta- 
 tions ; but we were not allowed to see or hear 
 any more of the ceremony. On the evening of 
 the following day all the idols prepared for this 
 anniversary were brought down to the river, em- 
 barked on a platform between two boats, from 
 
 which, with great pomp of music and pageantry, 
 they were plunged into the stream. We were 
 told that, the spirits of the gods being supposed 
 to have gone out of the images, they were re- 
 garded as dead carcases, and, instead of being 
 worshipped, were spurned and execrated by the 
 people, who both on land and water indulged 
 themselves in the most abominable excesses. 
 
 At Chinsurah, also, there is a famous place of 
 resort, called Saraishortollah, or the residence of 
 the Bull-god. This is a square area, on which, 
 beneath the umbrage of one vast banyan-tree, 
 stand several temples dedicated to different popu- 
 lar idols, to accommodate all classes of comers. 
 Here many self-inflicted or self-chosen cruelties 
 are practised, by those who thus hope to merit 
 a place in the Hindoo heaven. A favourite 
 penance is to have the tongue bored through 
 with a large iron spike. A blacksmith is the 
 operator, who is said to be very skilful both in 
 driving a nail and driving a bargain. It some- 
 times happens that the candidates for this piece 
 of service at his hands are so numerous and im- 
 patient that they are obliged to submit to be 
 arranged in order as they arrive, and wait till 
 each in his turn can be gratified with a wound 
 in the unruly member, which they use mean- 
 while with no small eloquence to induce him 
 to hasten to their relief, and, when he is come, to 
 get the business done as cheaply as they can. 
 The shrewd knave, however, is wise enough to 
 take his time, and extort a larger or a smaller fee, 
 according to the number, rank, or fanaticism of 
 his customers. 
 
 The principal object of veneration is a large 
 unshapen block of black stone, in one of the 
 temples under the tree, which thousands come 
 from the remotest provinces of the peninsula to 
 worship. The tradition runs, that the proprietor 
 dreamed that, if he would search in such a part 
 of the bed of the river, he would find just such 
 a stone. Straightway next morning he went to 
 the spot, and found the identical block which 
 had been shown him in his sleep, and which of 
 course could be no other than a god ; so a god 
 he made it, and invited whoever pleased to pay 
 their devotions to it, provided they first paid a 
 small tax to himself. Thus are these people 
 deluded by the basest and shallowest artifices of 
 profligate and mercenary men. 
 
 CHAPTER XLVI. 
 
 Deputation sail fot Madras Arrival at Vi/.agapatam 
 Dr. Bell's School-syst-m Madras Sir Thomas Monroe 
 Chowltries. or Caravans-eras ArcotPungalore Pa- 
 lanquin-bearers - Guramconda-Tlgert-Arrival at Cnd- 
 dapah Hindoo Villany Festival of Cama, at Uellary 
 Ruins of Kijanaxhur The Cow and the Tiger 
 New-year Festival at Gudduck Village Fortresses 
 Whirlwind at Chittoor Christian Natives at JJelgaum 
 Bathing of Bulluloes Ants Indian Gipsies. 
 
 1820. DEC. 19. After a second residence of two 
 months in Calcutta, we sailed this day for Ma- 
 dras, intending to visit the Missionary stations 
 of our society in the south of India, as we have 
 now done those in the north ; where, so far as it 
 was practicable, we trust that we have accom- 
 plished the benevolent purposes for which we 
 
246 
 
 DR. BELL'S SCHOOL-SYSTEM CHOWLTRIES. 
 
 were originally deputed. Our vessel is the 
 Aurora, burthen five hundred tons, and teak- 
 built. 
 
 1827. Jan. 5. We landed at Tizagapatam, 
 where we stayed three days, sojourning with the 
 Missionaries, Messrs. Gordon and Dawson, and 
 discussing with them various important matters 
 relative to their labours on this station. 
 
 Jan. 11. On our arrival at Madras we found 
 our kind Missionary friends, Messrs. Taylor and 
 Crisp, waiting to receive us, and with them we 
 took up our abode. 
 
 Jan. 17. We have been much gratified with 
 the general appearance, the admirable manage- 
 ment, and we believe the efficient means for 
 doing much good, of the Madras school, which 
 was formerly under the care of the public-spirited 
 Dr. Bell, arid wherein he first adopted the edu- 
 cational system which bears his name ; borrow- 
 ing indeed some of the details from Hindoo 
 usages, but greatly improving these, and adding 
 others that were necessary in the instruction of 
 children of rather a higher degree of intellect 
 than is often to be found among the native 
 castes here. The dwelling-house is a plain, 
 common building ; but the rooms for conducting 
 the business of the establishment are very large 
 and commodious : the principal one being two 
 hundred and fifty feet in length, by fifty in A\ idth. 
 There are at this time, on the foundation, four 
 hundred and sixty boys, chiefly half-castes, the 
 sons of British soldiers and native women ; many 
 of whom are orphans ; and of these latter a few 
 whose parents were English ; these are boarded, 
 lodged, fed, clothed and taught the rudiments 
 of useful learning and Christian knowledge, 
 upon Dr. Bell's plan, at an expense of about 
 eight guineas a-head per annum. The superin- 
 tendant, the Rev. Mr. Roy, showed us the pre- 
 mises, and answered our various inquiries with 
 great politeness and intelligence. 
 
 Jan. 19. This morning we had the honour of 
 an interview with the governor, Sir Thomas 
 Monroe, who of his own accord spoke with 
 manifest pleasure of what he had already heard 
 concerning the work of God in the South Seas, 
 and desired to hear more at a convenient oppor- 
 tunity. We stated to his Excellency our pur- 
 pose (with permission) to visit the Missionary 
 stations in South India ; and he, in the most gra- 
 cious manner, promised at once to furnish ns 
 with suitable facilities; though having no licence 
 from the East India Directors in England, we 
 \inderstand that we might h^ve been ordered 
 forthwith to leave the country. We were after- 
 wards entertained several times by Sir Thomas 
 Monroe during our stay at Madras, and had 
 great satisfaction in affording him such further 
 information respecting the Pacific Islands as he 
 appeared delighted to receive. 
 
 Feb. 4. In the evening we reached the chowl- 
 try, about half-way between Madras and Tri- 
 pasore about fifteen miles which completed 
 the first stage on our journey. It is pleasing to 
 observe the hospitable attention that is paid to 
 the accommodation of travelling in these coun- 
 tries hy the rich natives. Chowltries (which 
 answer the same purposes as caravanseras in 
 
 other parts of the east) are erected at conve- 
 nient distances by the roadside, which are open 
 day and night for the reception of respectable 
 passengers. Inferior sheds are likewise reared 
 to shelter persons of the lower classes. Adja- 
 cent to these are water-tanks, and frequently 
 pagodas. White pots are in some places sus- 
 pended from the branches of trees, containing 
 chunam (lime), which the people use with the 
 betel-nut and cere-leaf, so commonly chewed 
 by them. Vessels are occasionally set by the 
 wayside, under the thick shadow of trees, con- 
 taining cool water and drinking-cups for a tem- 
 porary refreshment. Ignited ropes also are 
 fastened here and there against a wall, at which 
 people may light their cheroots or tobacco- 
 pipes, which they smoke as they go along. The 
 chowltry at which we halted was sixty feet in 
 length by thirty in width, having an open, 
 thatched verandah in front. Three parallel 
 rows of arched pillars supported the ridge-tree 
 and roof. At each end and behind are private 
 apartments. The whole is well paved with 
 brick, and kept perfectly clean, without expense 
 to any one who enjoys the benefit of it. These 
 conveniences are generally built by wealthy 
 Hindoos as sacrifices of charity, whereby future 
 happiness is to be merited. 
 
 We travel in palanquins, each being provided 
 with a set of thirteen men, palky-bearers, hired 
 by the month at no great cost, besides coolies, 
 or porters, to carry provisions and other requi- 
 sites. There being no inns where entertain- 
 ment can be procured, travellers furnish them- 
 selves with eatables, which may be cooked at 
 the chowltries ; but, as there is seldom any fur- 
 niture in these except a long stool, bedding also 
 is a necessary article of luggage. Our palan- 
 quins were our carriages by day and our couches 
 at night. 
 
 Feb. 5. The roads in this part of India are 
 exceedingly bad, being little else than barren 
 burning sand, covered with a scanty vegetation. 
 In some places they hare been flooded to-day 
 so deeply that the water reached the lower part 
 of our palanquins, and our bearers have waded 
 up to the loins through it. Palmyra, fan-palm, 
 and banyan-trees, however, abound and flourish 
 amidst universal apparent sterility. Early in 
 the evening we were obliged to halt, that our 
 weary bearers might rest themselves. During this 
 day's march one of our servants, being at a 
 little distance before the rest, was attacked hy 
 two ruffians, who attempted to rob him, but he 
 escaped ; and, the alarm being given, a chase 
 ensued, and the rogues were taken. One of 
 these was immediately bound, with his hands 
 behind his back, and well beaten upon the spot 
 with an old shoe, which is the greatest disgrace 
 that a Hindoo can suffer ; but our men would 
 not punish the other, who most deserved both 
 chastisement and contempt, because he proved 
 to be a Brahmin, by the sacred thread which he 
 wore. They were both therefore turned loose 
 again. This incident reminded us of the im- 
 portance of being upon our guard ; a precaution 
 which a traveller in India hardly thinks of now 
 in the well-governed districts ; very lew robberies 
 
ARGOT TIGERS HINDOO VILLANY. 
 
 247 
 
 by open violence being committed. At our 
 night-quarters, therefore, we placed our palan- 
 quins side by side round the chowltry, and lay 
 down amidst our heathen attendants, without 
 any fear of being injured by them, after having 
 committed ourselves to the merciful keeping of 
 an ever-gracious Providence. 
 
 Feb. 8. We rested at Arcot. In this neigh- 
 bourhood are considerable cantonments for ca- 
 valry, belonging to the East India Company. 
 The horses are exposed to all varieties of wea- 
 ther, day and night, without any shelter but the 
 occasional covering of a blanket in heavy rain. 
 By this treatment the animals are much better 
 inured to bear the changes and chances of cam- 
 paigning than if they were fostered in stables ; 
 and very few, we understand, die in the season- 
 ing. They are principally Arabians, fifteen 
 hundred of which are annually imported to sup- 
 ply the demands of the army. Arcot is a native 
 town of great antiquity, and surrounded with 
 cocoa-nut trees. It was formerly fortified, but 
 the works are in ruins. The inhabitants for the 
 most part are Mahommedaus, and the popula- 
 tion of the neighbourhood is immense, being 
 estimated at nearly a million, within a circle of 
 three miles diameter. The famous chunam or 
 lime of India is prepared here from a peculiar 
 kind of calcareous substance, called conkar, in 
 which the valuable material is found in the 
 form of nodules. The manufacture and trailie 
 of this commodity are very great. 
 
 Feb. 15. At Pungalore, when we wished to 
 proceed towards Guramconda, we found one of 
 our head men drunk, and four others so sick 
 that they were incapable of further duty. \Ve 
 now regretted heartily (from experience which 
 we had at .Madras) having engaged our bearers 
 by the month, instead of travelling post or by 
 the mile. The former may appear to be the 
 least expensive ; but to strangers the inconve- 
 nience and vexation of having to deal with 
 people whom they cannot command or persuade 
 under any consideration to be prompt or punc- 
 tual in anything they do, far overbalance any 
 moderate pecuniary saving. It is the interest 
 of the hired bearers to do as little labour as pos- 
 sible and occupy as much time on the road. 
 Their object and ours, therefore, being in dia- 
 metrical opposition, we are involved in perpe- 
 tual differences with them. "When the hour of 
 starting arrives, they have frequently to get 
 their food or take a nap ; or one or two of 
 them may be missing ; perhaps there are no 
 torches to be had, or no oil to supply them ; it 
 is too hot, too cold, or the distance is too far for 
 them to venture upon in their exhausted state ; 
 with a thousand other frivolous and provoking 
 excuses, against which reasoning is of no more 
 avail than it would be with mosquitoes, when 
 the wearied traveller cannot get a wink of sleep 
 for their annoying attacks. 
 
 Feb. 16. In the evening, being on the road 
 t<> (iuramconda, which is a mere foot-track, 
 winding among rocks and dells, and where a 
 fe\v ^iinls of level ground can rarely be found, 
 we \vere repeatedly obliged to alight from our 
 palanquins, and walk as well as we nii;.;ht, or 
 
 submit to be carried across swamps on the 
 backs of our attendants. We crossed the beds 
 of several rivers, now nearly dry, but in the 
 rainy season, as their channels indicate, pouring 
 impetuous torrents through the country. The 
 miserably poor soil supports a few stunted 
 shrubs, with here and there a patch of rice- 
 ground. 
 
 This wilderness-region is much infested Avith 
 tigers, and we were not always out of peril by the 
 way. Mr. Bennet, accompanied by one of the 
 Musshaulchees, carrying a lighted torch, had 
 unthinkingly walked onward to a considerable 
 distance from the rest ; suddenly a rustling was 
 heard among the bushes, and a motion appeared 
 under their foliage, which gave instant alarm of 
 danger and danger so near that escape seemed 
 improbable. " Is there a. tiger there t" he ex- 
 claimed. " Many tigers," was the reply of the 
 terrified torch - bearer, who nevertheless had 
 presence of mind to stoop down and set fire to 
 the dry grass, which burst out quickly into fire 
 and smoke, flaring and obscuring at the same 
 time all surrounding objects. In this crisis 
 Mr. Bennet and the man stood still till his pa- 
 lanquin and attendants arrived. Providentially 
 nothing more was seen or heard of the beast, 
 which the Musshaulchee declared he had dis- 
 tinctly perceived couchant, as if in the very act 
 to spring, when, had it done so, either one or 
 the other must inevitably have been its victim. 
 
 Feb. 21. On our arrival at Cuddapah, Wil- 
 liam Haigh, Esq., the Zillah-judge, introduced 
 himself to us, kindly saying that he did not. 
 doubt who we were on our first appearance, as 
 he had been expecting us in the course of the 
 day. Other distinguished persons also wel- 
 comed us with much cordiality ; among the 
 rest, P. Brown, Esq., register of the court, a 
 son of that eminent Christian minister and one 
 of the genuine apostles of India, the late Rev. 
 David Brown, of Calcutta. 
 
 The following is a dark specimen of such 
 cases of complicated villany as now and then 
 come too often certainly before the tribunals 
 of justice in India. It was lately brought for- 
 ward and exposed in the Zillah-court at Cud- 
 dapah. A Brahmin being indebted to another 
 Brahmin in a sum of money, payment of which 
 had often been demanded in vain, he to whom 
 it was owing at length determined to act upon 
 a custom sometimes observed here, namely, to 
 go and live under the roof of the debtor till he 
 could obtain his due. A woman of the same 
 sacred caste was on a visit to the latter at the 
 time when the former took up his abode with 
 him. She had been at Madras to receive some 
 money, which, being known to the creditor, he 
 urged his debtor to avail himself of the circum- 
 stance for means to discharge the obligation. 
 " This woman has money," said he ; " why 
 don't you robber and pay me 1" " I cannot 
 do that," answered the other, " she is a guest in 
 my house, and I do not like to use her so.'' 
 But the importunity of the tempter prevailed, 
 ;uid the two Jirahmins, too dastardly to do the 
 deed themselves, bribed a pariah, a wretch of 
 no caste, to commit the crime, with a promise 
 
248 
 
 CUDDAPAH GREAT HINDOO FESTIVAL. 
 
 of a share of the booty. Even he at first re- 
 volted from the service, saying, " I am not in 
 want of money at present, and I have no mind 
 to the work." The holy men, however, per- 
 suaded him against his better feelings. Accord- 
 ingly he watched his opportunity, waylaid the 
 woman and robbed her of her treasure, which 
 he delivered to his employers, and claimed the 
 wages of his iniquity. When the bulk of the 
 spoil had been equally divided between the 
 parties, there remained two rupees and a half; 
 whereupon they said, " Let us not take these 
 for ourselves, but let each sacrifice his portion 
 of them to his own God." And they did so. 
 Thus two proud Brahmins, who would have 
 trodden down the hated pariah " as mire in the 
 streets," rather than have had any honest deal- 
 ings with him, could stoop to the infamy of 
 making him their proxy and accomplice in a 
 conspiracy to plunder a helpless woman of their 
 own order, and at the very time under the pro- 
 tection of one of her betrayers. 
 
 Cuddapah is the capital of the eastern district 
 of the Balaghaut ceded territory, and is situated 
 in latitude 14 28' N. ; longitude 79 E. It is 
 often called Cripa, which is a corruption of 
 Cuddapah, and which means a threshold ; as it 
 is situated at the entrance of a valley, ^ited, 
 formerly, and held sacred by the Hindoos. 
 This town is situated on a hot sandy plain of 
 considerable extent, and surrounded by distant 
 hills. It is remarkable for its great heat, and 
 
 I on this account it is vulgarly called by Eu- 
 ropeans " the fryingpan of India," resembling 
 
 I in its locality that utensil. From general testi- 
 mony, and especially from Mr. Ho well, who 
 was born in the country, and has tnnelled a 
 great deal in India, the heat must be prodigious. 
 
 I During the dry season, if there be nny wind in 
 the daytime, after the sun sets it dies a\\ 
 the atmosphere becomes suH'ocating ; and this 
 continues through the night. There are no 
 dews, and the common people sleep out in the 
 open air. The soil is sandy, and of a brownish 
 colour ; and during the hot season all vegeta- 
 tion, excepting trees, is burnt up. The heat 
 imbibed during the day by the earth is retained 
 through the night; while the many trees about 
 the town tend to prevent the circulation of the 
 air, and to aggravate the evil. Ever since last 
 September fever has raged here, and few have 
 escaped its assaults, though it has not been very 
 destructive. 
 
 The town of Cuddapah was formerly much 
 more extensive than at present, as the ruins all 
 around indicate. These ruins, however, in ge- 
 neral, are but the ruins of poor, wretched, mud- 
 walled cottages. The town consists principally 
 of such hovels, of one story, placed in tolerably 
 good street-order, while those that are fallen 
 down, and suffered to remain in that state, are 
 almost as numerous as those which are inha- 
 bited. This will give a general idea of towns 
 in all parts of India. Here are several mosques 
 and Mahommedan bury ing-grounds, crowded 
 with tombs, built in the style peculiar to that 
 people, together with two ancient palaces be- 
 longing to them, the one of which is now the 
 
 jail, and the other the treasury. In the latter 
 building are kept both the cash collected in the 
 district as taxes, and the public records. Ge- 
 neral appearances indicate the former dignity of 
 the Moors here, and strikingly demonstrate their 
 present degradation. As to extent of popu- 
 lation, indeed, the Mussulmans are numerous 
 in this place, being about one -third of the 
 whole ; but they are wretchedly poor, ignorant, 
 and sensual. The other two-thirds of the popu- 
 lation are Gentoos. They have but few pagodas 
 in the town, and these are very small. 
 
 While here we had an opportunity of attend- 
 ing a great Hindoo festival, called Gangamma 
 Tirnal, or the great goddess Gangamma, held in 
 the village called Cocotapetta, distant from 
 Cuddapah about five miles. This was a most 
 novel and affecting sight. About 50,000 people 
 were assembled in a sort of grove around the 
 filthy pagoda, in which was the object of attrac- 
 tion and adoration. Before the door of this 
 swamy-house the people wen- sacrificing sheep 
 and goats to the idol all tin- day, and streams of 
 blood flowed in all directions. Around this 
 place is a wide road, on which multitudes of 
 bullock basket-carts were driven, irom which 
 grain of various kinds was thrown to all such as 
 chose to receive it, in fulfilment of vows. Be- 
 tween twelve o'clock at noon and six in the 
 evening we - men and six women 
 
 undergo the ceremony of swinging upon hooks 
 put through the skin of their kirks. Tin- ma- 
 chine which was used for this purpo>e was a 
 bullock-cart. Over the a\|etr.-e a post wu- 
 erected, over the top of which a beam, about 
 thirty-five feet in length, passed, and IHOMM| 
 upon a pin. The longer end of this beam 
 extended over the bullocks; at the end of it 
 was a square frame attached, adorned with 
 young plantain -trees, in which two ] 
 could stand. When the hooks v 
 into the skin, the ropos attached to the hooks 
 were lashed firmly to the top bar of the frame, 
 so as to allow the people to stand upon the 
 lower bar. This being done, and we saw the 
 operation performed in several instances the 
 beam was raised upon its fulcrum, and the per- 
 sons on the frame were elevated about twenty- 
 five or thirty feet above the ground. Each per- 
 son was furnished with a dagger in one hand 
 and a pocket handkerchief in the other. The 
 machines, to some of which ware yok 
 eight, ten, or twelve bullocks, were now driven 
 at full speed round the pagoda three times, 
 while the deluded wretches were brandishing 
 the dagger and waving the handkerchief, occa- 
 sionally resting their weight on the lower part 
 of the frame, but often suspending their entire 
 weight on the hooks. Sometimes six or eight 
 of these machines were driven round at the 
 same time. On inquiring why the deluded be- 
 ings submitted to this punishment, some told 
 us it was in fulfilment of vows made to the god- 
 dess ; others, that they were hired by persons 
 standing by, and received one or two rupees for 
 their trouble. Among the trees were stalls and 
 booths, in which were sold sweetmeats, victuals, 
 trinkets, &c. Here were jugglers, beggars, and 
 
HINDOO PANTOMIME-TRICKSRUINS OF BIJANAGHUR. 
 
 249 
 
 parties of pleasure ; but very few took any no- 
 tice of those horrid scenes which most attracted 
 our attention. Never were we before so power- 
 fully impressed with the importance of Mis- 
 sionary exertions, to make known the merciful 
 religion of Jesus, to enlighten the heathen, and 
 put a stop to these dreadful cruelties. 
 
 March 7. At Bellary our Missionary friends, 
 Mr. Hands and others, made the time delightful 
 as well as profitable to ourselves, and we trust 
 that we were not merely partakers, but in some 
 degree helpers, of their joy. While we were 
 here, the annual festival of Cama, the Hindoo 
 Cupid, was in the course of celebration, during 
 nine days, on one of which, that of the full 
 moon, it closed with a variety of fantastic pro- 
 cessions and pantomimic sports, after sunset. 
 The people paraded the thoroughfares in crowds, 
 throwing a kind of red powder at one another, 
 till all their clothes were discoloured with it. 
 Many of the grandees had temporary sheds 
 erected in public places, under which dancing 
 girls and bands of musicians were exercising 
 their abilities ; while song and revelry were 
 heard and seen within, without, and on every 
 hand. Garlands of flowers were presented to 
 passengers in the streets, rose-water wassprinkled 
 upon their persons, and wine and cakes were 
 offered to them with the utmost frankness. 
 .Every where bonfires of dried cow-dung, old 
 briskets, riiul other castaway things, were blazing 
 in the open air; in the heart of each of these 
 was planted a stake, bearing on the top, on a 
 breadth of paper, a picture of the Cupid, which 
 ultimately fell into the flames, and was con- 
 sumed. Two gaudy cars meanwhile were drawn 
 through the city, on each of which an image of 
 the same divinity, represented as a youth ca- 
 rrsxin.; an infant, was mounted, and received 
 the homage of the multitude. Blue lights and 
 fireworks were exhibited before these idols. 
 Boys, dressed as girls, were also seen dancing 
 in the streets to the sound of jingling, jarring, 
 and " ear-piercing" instruments. A man, 
 feigning to be dead, was carried upon a bier, 
 and represented a corpse. The intended jest 
 was that the people might be actually deceived ; 
 the bier, therefore, was set down, first in one 
 place and then another, as though the body were 
 on the way to interment, being covered with a 
 funeral cloth, and the face only, stamped with 
 the image of death, left bare. Over this, then, 
 while the curious spectators were gazing, the 
 signs of re-animation suddenly appeared ; the 
 eyes opened, the lips moved, they spoke, and the 
 dead-alive was welcomed back to the world with 
 roars of universal merriment. 
 
 March 22. From Camilapore, a small village 
 in the vicinity, we walked over to see the ruins 
 of Bijanaghur (lat. 15 14' N., long. 70 34> E.), 
 once the capital of the great Hindoo empire. 
 The ruins are situated on the south bank of the 
 Toombuddra river, exactly opposite to Ana- 
 goondy, of old one of the most famous cities of 
 the east. It was founded in 1336, and in its glory 
 about the year 1525, when its rajah, Kistaro\v 
 Nurputtee, subdued the whole of the Carnatic 
 up to Nirbudda. He is recorded to have had 
 
 nine lacs of cavalry and twenty lacs of infantry 
 (ninety thousand of the one, and two hundred 
 thousand of the other). The third in succession 
 from him, Burra Ram Row, having insulted the 
 ambassadors of the Mussulman princes his 
 neighbours, they united their forces, marched 
 against him, vanquished and beheaded him ; 
 after which they gave the city up to plunder and 
 destruction, in 1564. The booty was immense, 
 and their armies remained three years upon the 
 spot, demolishing palaces, temples, and dwell- 
 ings of every description. The modern city is 
 comparatively insignificant. The subsequent 
 possession of it, with a greater or lesser extent 
 of adjacent territory, has been in the hands of 
 various native princes. The present nominal 
 rajah is a boy not more three years old. 
 
 On reaching the site, we crossed an ancient 
 embankment, once strongly fortified, beyond 
 which the ruins are scattered in dreary magnifi- 
 cence over a vast plot of undulated ground, the 
 inequality of which gives extraordinary relief 
 and effect to their dismantled forms inter- 
 mingled as they are with enormous piles of 
 sienite rocks, or mouldering upon the crests of 
 imperishable foundations of the same material, 
 which their structures were intended by the 
 builders to rival in durability. Among the pro- 
 digious remains of dilapidated palaces, we re- 
 marked a peculiar range of buildings, said to 
 have been elephant-stables, over each of which, 
 eleven in number, there is a distinct dome. 
 Pagodas, of various sizes and different orders of 
 architecture, appear on every side. One of these 
 attracted our special attention ; it is a stone en- 
 closure without a roof, wherein is a Hindoo idol 
 of great curiosity, being a colossal image of the 
 lion-god : a human figure having a lion's head, 
 with a richly-ornamented conical crown upon it. 
 This statue is admirably executed, of fine sym- 
 metry, and indicative of vast muscular strength : 
 it is, however, much mutilated ; both the arms 
 and legs have been broken off. Though in a 
 sitting posture, the height is nearly eighteen 
 feet, the girth about the waist nineteen, and the 
 breadth across the shoulders ten. Behind its 
 back a serpent (the cobra capella), proportion- 
 ately large, rises upon its tail, and spreads its 
 hood as a canopy over the idol, above which are 
 seen six additional heads belonging to the snake. 
 This group is enclosed within a concave recess, 
 supported by two pillars ; both the shafts and 
 the arch are lavishly adorned with emblematical 
 devices. The whole has been sculptured from 
 one solid and exceedingly hard mass of sienite, 
 in its native bed, upon the spot. 
 
 Colonel Bowles informed us that when his 
 regiment was quartered here, one night he heard 
 a very unusual disturbance in the street, in 
 which, certainly, human beings were not the 
 agents. On looking out of the window he per- 
 ceived that a tiger, having prowled hither for 
 prey, had just seized a calf by the neck and was 
 hurrying it off. The cow to which it belonged 
 was tethered to a stake, but such was the agony 
 and desperation of the bereaved brute, when she 
 saw her offspring snatched from her side, that 
 she actually broke the rope by a sudden plunge, 
 
250 
 
 THE ALMANAC-MAKER TILLAGE FORTRESSES. 
 
 and pursued the savage monster, with most 
 piteous lamentations, as though she would have 
 rescued it by force or perished in the conflict. 
 Strange to tell, the tiger, finding himself so 
 hardly beset, and alarmed probably by the dis- 
 mal bellowing of the poor beast, dropped his 
 prey and escaped with all his might into the 
 bushes. The cow stopped abruptly over her 
 calf, stirred it with her foot, licked it with the 
 fondest affection, went round it and round it ; 
 but in vain she endeavoured to make her little 
 one get up it was dead. 
 
 March 28. The festival of the new year com- 
 mencing with the new moon to-day, we, being 
 at the village of Gudduck, went to the police- 
 office (which serves for a town-hall), whore 
 nearly the whole population was assembled, at 
 eight o'clock in the evening. The oldest Brah- 
 min in the place, and all the principal men, 
 were seated upon a carpet at one end of the 
 room. Among these was the astrologer of the 
 district, whose business it was to read over the 
 new almanac, or, at least, announce to the 
 good people the most remarkable events which 
 it foretold. After a prologue of music, singing, 
 and dancing (as usual), by girls, the astrologer 
 began to act his more solemn mummeries. The 
 book was lying before him ; a small quantity of 
 rice and some betel-nuts were then poured on 
 the ground at his feet ; after which a few green 
 leaves and a little red powder, on a piece of 
 paper, were brought. First he made a brief 
 poojah or prayer ; he then mixed some of the 
 rice with the red powder, and distributed tin- 
 grains among those who sat near him. A piece 
 of camphor was next placed on a green leaf, and, 
 being ignited, was carried round, when all that 
 pleased held their hands over the flame, and 
 then folded them in the attitude of supplication. 
 Afterwards the betel-nuts and cere-leaves were 
 given away by him to persons on the right hand 
 and on the left. All this was done over the 
 new almanac ; which being thereby conse- 
 crated, the astrologer began to gabble over its 
 1 >;iu r cs with marvellous fluency, but apparently 
 with not less precision. This fool's calendar 
 (as it was, assuredly, in many parts, though 
 equally suited to wiser men's occasions in others) 
 contained the usual heterogeneous prognostica- 
 tions, calculations, and lucubrations on the wea- 
 ther, the heavenly bodies, the prevailing vices, 
 and the impending judgments, which charac- 
 terize similar compositions in Christian Europe. 
 The ceremony was concluded with another fit of 
 music, singing, and dancing ; after which, chap- 
 lets of sweet-scented flowers, sandal-wood, 
 snuff, and plantains, were presented, as new- 
 year's gifts, to the chief inhabitants, and those 
 ?t rangers who happened to be there ; among the 
 rest to ourselves, with the modest expression of 
 a hope, on the part of the astrologer, that the 
 gentlemen would give him a cloth for a mantle. 
 
 All the population in this part of India live in 
 villages for security ; a house standing alone is 
 scarcely to be seen. Every village, however 
 small, has its round tower, substantially built of 
 Mone, to the height, of thirty or forty feet. The 
 entrance to this stronghold is considerably above 
 
 the ground, and in case of alarm, from the Pin- 
 darees and robbers that infest the country, the 
 people flee into it, taking with them their fami- 
 lies and most valuable chattels ; then, drawing 
 up the ladder by which they ascended, they are 
 prepared to annoy the enemy with missiles, 
 thrown upon their heads from the roof, or shot 
 through holes left in the walls for that purpose. 
 Gangs of banditti have sometimes come upon a 
 village by surprise, and plundered, maltreated, 
 or murdered, all who were so unfortunate as to 
 fall into their hands ; but they have been espe- 
 cially infamous for torturing, with the most 
 reckless cruelty, any who were suspected to 
 have property concealed, to wring from them a 
 discovery of it. These excesses, however, are 
 much curbed, and rarely happen since the coun- 
 try came under the protection of British govern- 
 ment. The village-fortresses are falling to 
 decay, and the peasantry can sleep in peace, 
 without fear of being roused, before morning, by 
 the howls of human wolves breaking in upon 
 their folds. 
 
 April I . In the afternoon, while we were at 
 Chitoor, a tree, standing near the palace of the 
 desseye, or rajah, was suddenly a->aiU-d by the 
 pisache, as the natives call it, that is, the devil ; 
 and truly by an invisible spirit it seemed to he 
 agitated in the most violent manner, while all 
 the air was calm around. It was, in fart 
 narrow local whirlwind, which rent the foliage 
 and raised the dust, in a spiral column, about 
 the tree, to a great elevation. In two minutes 
 it was gone, and every branch and leaf remain- 
 ing became as still, in the course of a ' 
 conds, as though nothing had happened to dis- 
 turb them. Such gusto are not uncommon at 
 this season of the year, and are frequently con- 
 fined in their operations to a circle of a few 
 yards diameter. Severe thunder-storms, with 
 heavy rains, came on about the corresponding 
 hours of the two following afternoons. 
 
 April 12. Our Missionary friends at Belgaum 
 having sent a native convert to met t us, with 
 some supplies of provisions, we arrived there on 
 the 2nd instant, and were affectionately received 
 by Messrs. Taylor and Lillie. This is a mili- 
 tary station, and from many of the officers we 
 experienced great civilities during our brief so- 
 journ. Three Hindoos, the first-fruits in this 
 neighbourhood, were lately baptized by Mr. Tay- 
 lor, which occasioned no small consternation 
 among their Pagan relatives. The wives of the 
 men appeared for a while quite distracted. 
 They brought their offspring to the door of the 
 Missionary's house, laid them down there, and 
 cried to him, " Here, take these children ; cut 
 their throats, or do what you will with them ; 
 their fathers have lost caste ; our children will 
 be abandoned ; nobody will marry them ; and 
 what good will they do usl" Indeed, so hot a 
 persecution was raised against the new prose- 
 lytes, and so bitterly estranged were their fami- 
 lies from them, that they were obliged to fly 
 from their native village ; two turned hack t<> 
 idolatry, but one of these soon repented, and 
 again renounced it; the third continueii 
 fast, and has hitherto given the most satisfactory 
 
THE BRINJARIES, OR INDIAN GIPSIES ARRIVAL AT GOA. 
 
 251 
 
 proofs of the genuineness of his conversion. At 
 the little town (or Petta) there are two schools, 
 containing thirty boys, under Christian instruc- 
 tion ; and Mr. Taylor daily meets the adults 
 (such as will hear him), to converse with them 
 on things that pertain to salvation. As the 
 Hindoo converts are not suffered to draw water 
 from the public wells, Mr. T. has been obliged 
 to dig one expressly for their use. 
 
 April 13. Leaving Belgaum, we journeyed on 
 towards Goa. The climate in this part of India 
 is very fine, and the country beautifully diver- 
 sified with hill and dale, trees and streams. The 
 thermometer this morning, at sunrise, was down 
 at 71, with a fresh sea-breeze blowing from the 
 westward. The buffaloes, in all these torrid re- 
 gions are remarkably fond of water, and when 
 they can find a river or a pool, they may be seen 
 standing or lying in it, with their nostrils only 
 above the surface, to allow them to breathe. 
 Like swine, also, they love to wallow in the 
 mire, and plaster their hides all over with fresh 
 mud, to keep themselves cool. To-day we 
 passed a herd of these animals, ruminating in a 
 shallow river. A man was throwing water over 
 the body of one of them, and rubbing down its 
 limbs, while another stood by, so impatient to 
 enjoy the same luxurious handling that it would 
 scarcely allow the drover to finish his work with 
 the former biting, and pawing, and moaning 
 till its turn came. 
 
 On many trees we observe ants'-nests, of 
 great size, hinging like fruits from the branches. 
 These are most ingeniously compacted of leaves, 
 lapping over each other like tiles on the roof of 
 a house, and firmly agglutinated by matter which 
 oozes from the bodies of the architects them- 
 selves. The nests are of an oval form, of 
 a dark colour, and as big as a man's hat. 
 "When disturbed in their airy citadels, the insect- 
 garrisons become exceedingly fierce, and make 
 such annoying resistance that it is not wise 
 either for man or monkey to meddle with them. 
 Large ground-ants swarm everywhere ; their 
 habitations are really deserving the name of 
 hills, being heaped up, in great bulk, about the 
 roots of trees, and often crowned with many 
 conic spires like Alpine peaks on a small 
 scale. 
 
 We passed a party of Brinjaries, a class of 
 gipsies who act as carriers of rice, salt, &c., 
 which they transport through the provinces on 
 bullocks. They never locate themselves, or live 
 in houses, but wander from place to place with 
 their wives and children and cattle, pitching or 
 striking their tents where they can find pasture, 
 employment, or repose, as they want one or other 
 of these. The men carry upon their backs 
 gaily-ornamented bags, and other finery ; while 
 the women are fond of sporting unwieldy ear- 
 rings and bracelets. These people, in times of 
 war, are found of great service in collecting 
 supplies, and removing baggage, in the train of 
 armies. 
 
 CHAPTER XLVII. 
 
 Arrival at Goa Condition of Inhabitants Buildings of 
 the Inquisition Visit to the Dungeons, &c. Roman 
 Catholics in India Visit Cannonmore Lion-ant An 
 Anecdote Vengeance of an Elephant Destruction of 
 Tigers Pendulous Bees'-Nests Fish fed by the Hand 
 Arrival at Mysore Royal Elephant-carriage Pagoda 
 Animal-fights Colossal Bull-image Seringa pata'm 
 Whimsical Mistake Ants'-Nests Chameleon Nil- 
 glu-rry Mountains Boa-constrictor Scarecrows Civet 
 C';its Cape Camorin Right and Left-hand Castes 
 Hindoo Covetousness Quilon Travancore Madras. 
 
 APRIL 16. Boats having been engaged to take 
 us and our palanquins down the river from 
 Assunwarra to Goa, a distance of fourteen 
 miles, we embarked very early, reached the 
 harbour soon after daybreak, and landed at the 
 admiral's stairs. The eldest of three brothers 
 occupies the official house, and enjoys the ho- 
 nour of being admiral, under the Portuguese 
 government here, which, however, is little en- 
 cumbered with duties. Having letters of intro- 
 duction to this gentleman, he received us with 
 great courtesy, and to his countenance we were, 
 in a considerable measure, indebted for much 
 respect and attention shown to us by other per- 
 sons of authority in Goa. 
 
 April 17. The extent of the Portuguese territory 
 on the continent of India is about seventy miles 
 along the coast, and twenty-three miles inland. 
 The population is reckoned to be two hundred 
 and seventy thousand, of which the small island 
 of Goa comprehends seventeen thousand. The 
 latter is two leagues in length from east to west, 
 and half as much from north to south. The 
 harbour, which was once the rendezvous of ships 
 laden with all the treasures of the east, is now 
 filling up with sand, and has little more than 
 four fathoms of water. There are computed to 
 be , eight hundred Roman Catholic priests in 
 the Portuguese domains ; Mahommedans and 
 Gentoos are tolerated, but not allowed to deco- 
 rate their mosques or temples with external 
 signs of what they are, nor to celebrate their 
 respective festivals by processions in public. 
 The proportion of professors of Christianity, 
 Islamism, and Hindoo idolatry, we have not 
 learnt. There is not one printing-press through- 
 out Portuguese India ; we may add, almost as 
 a matter of course in this age of the world, 
 that the state of knowledge, of morals, and of 
 civil polity, must be exceedingly low. 
 
 April 18. Accompanied by Signor Cypriano, 
 secretary to the government, and Mr. Tasker, 
 our Missionary friend, AVC visited several 
 churches and converts, the venerable relics of 
 former days of Portuguese glory. On these, 
 however, we could not look without painful 
 historical associations, which made us feel little 
 regret that such glory had passed away, and that 
 such power as once had been exercised here for 
 purposes- of secular and priestly aggrandize- 
 ment, by the oppression, plunder, and persecu- 
 tion of the unhappy people who were its sub- 
 jects, was utterly, and we trust for ever, extinct. 
 At the magnificent convent of St. Dorninic we 
 were kindly entertained by the vicar-general. 
 He is from Macao, and, as his features indicate, 
 
252 THE VICAR-GENERAL OF GOA DUNGEONS OF THE INQUISITION. 
 
 of Chinese descent ; he is a middle-aged, clever, 
 well-informed man, and of pleasant manners. 
 Conversing respecting the late inquisition here, 
 he expressed himself in decided terms of ab- 
 horrence of the cruelty which formerly made it 
 infamous, and of satisfaction that such nuisance 
 had been abolished, frankly designating that 
 engine of abused ecclesiastical authority an in- 
 fernal thing. He had read Dr. Buchanan's 
 Researches, and observed that, with the ex- 
 ception of a few immaterial errors, his account 
 of this horrible tribunal was correct. After 
 dinner we had much discourse respecting 1 In- 
 several versions of the Scriptures into Chinese 
 and the various dialects of India and the East. 
 A copy was produced by Mr. Taylor (our Mi^- 
 sionary travelling- companion at this time) in 
 the Portuguese language, published by the Bible 
 Society. On noticing the name of the translator, 
 the vicar-general asked if it were a fact that 
 the work had been executed by that person. 
 "VVe assured him that he might rely upon that, 
 as the Bible Society was under the direction of 
 men who were incapable of imposing a forgery 
 upon the public. The Roman Catholics present 
 then spoke very highly of the person alluded to; 
 and one of them emphatically remarked that 
 " Purgatory itself could not speak against that 
 translation." 
 
 In the evening we went to survey, without 
 fear of consequences, the buildings of the once 
 dreaded inquisition. These are of plain ma- 
 sonry, of various heights and irregular form, ap- 
 proaching to that of a parallelogram, three hun- 
 dred and twenty feet on the north front, and a 
 hundred and seventy-five at the east end. The 
 principal entrance, facing the city cathedral, is 
 through a large portal of stone. The doors had 
 not only been locked, but nailed up ! Signer 
 Cypriano, however, before our arrival, had or- 
 dered them to be opened by a skilful artisan. 
 What were our feelings on stepping within tin- 
 hideous enclosure ! Nothing but ruin instantly 
 met our eyes. The roof had fallen in ; tin- 
 floors were everywhere giving way, and tin- 
 walls were mouldering towards early drst ruc- 
 tion ; while shrubs and creepers were growing 
 luxuriantly upon the tottering masses, and 
 through the ruptured battlements. The great 
 hall had been stripped of its gloomy magnifi- 
 cence a painted surface, consisting of a few 
 triangular figures, alone remaining; while the 
 rotten floor, overgrown with grass, felt scarcely 
 safe to tread upon : indeed it was with some 
 degree of trepidation that we walked across the 
 various apartments through which we were led, 
 the crazy timbers and floors frequently creaking 
 and yielding, as though they would have failed 
 beneath our feet. Descending to the dungeons 
 below, it was with difficulty we could make our 
 way from one recess to another doors, walls, 
 and ceilings mingling their materials together 
 in heaps of rubbish. At length we found a nar- 
 row staircase which conducted us to the princi- 
 pal cells the deepest, darkest, strongest holds 
 of this castle of Giant Despair. These were 
 formed below the level of the ground, and con- 
 sist of three rows, each containing six cells, ten 
 
 feet square below, by fifteen feet high, with 
 arched roofs, and small iron-barred windows, 
 to admit a little air and less light : indeed, on 
 first entering one of these dens we could scarce- 
 ly see each other, or distinguish the forlorn 
 dimensions. All the doors have been removed : 
 but it was apparent that, besides locks and 
 bolts, two heavy wooden bars had been em- 
 ployed to fasten them on the outside. The cells 
 stand in three parallel lines, having the same 
 aspect, so that the doors of one row face the 
 back of the row before them, preventing the 
 possibility of communication between the pri- 
 soners confined in the one with those confined 
 in the other. The walls are very thick. A ve- 
 randah, five feet wide, supported by pillars, ex- 
 tends in front of each row of cells ; and between 
 the verandah and the row beyond is an area of 
 the same breadth. At right angles with these, 
 and at either end, are two other range-, 
 containing seven distinct dungeons. One of 
 these latter had been employed as the room for 
 examining the miserable beings that fell into 
 the clutches of the inquisitors, by the torture. 
 This was indicated by a broad black stripe all 
 about the upper part of the walls, with similar 
 strikes extending froman-rle to anirle, and cross- 
 ing in the middle. In the roof of this apart- 
 ment there is a small square aperture, through 
 which it is said, the inhuman judges listened 
 to the confessions, the groans, and shrieks, of 
 their agonized victims, while the rope and the 
 rack stretched their limls to di-loeation, or tor- 
 ments more exquisite, by rire and stet :. 
 inflicted upon them. Over these live > 
 cells there have been upper stories, now dilapi- 
 dated, which appear to have been of the same 
 construction, and for the same purposes, as tin- 
 lower. This place, how\er, \ie\\ed merely as 
 a prison, if kept clean, might have afforded as 
 much personal comfort as is consistent with 
 close confinement ; while, being in the centre 
 of the other buildings, it might be said to be 
 hermetically sealed to cut off the possibility of 
 escape. The last auto da fe, or public execu- 
 tion of condemned persons, here, took place in 
 1777, from which time till the holy oil! 
 absolutely abolished, by the interference of tin- 
 British government, in 1811, the bodies of the 
 wretches that f peris hod within the walls of the 
 inquisition here, either un.der the torture or by 
 direct violence, or from heart-breaking captivity, 
 are said to have been thrown into a very dee]) 
 tank, within the precincts of the dungeon-quar- 
 ter. The original structure was the palace of 
 a Mahommedan prince; afterwards the resi- 
 dence of the Portuguese viceroy ; then comett- 
 ed into a Popish "place of torment," which 
 deserved a harder name than that of purgatory ; 
 now happily it is " a desolation and a h; 
 and will be " a perpetual scorn" so long as one 
 stone shall remain upon another, to cry out 
 against its former priestly possessors. 
 
 The inhabitants of Goa, amounting to about 
 17,000 souls, are a motley multitude, consist- 
 ing of Portuguese, Hindoos, Mahommedans, 
 and African slaves, brought from the coast of 
 Mozambique ; with half-castes of every descrip- 
 
ROMAN CATHOLICS IN INDIA VENGEANCE OF AN ELEPHANT. 253 
 
 tion that can be formed out of these, and vary- 
 ing in complexion through every shade between 
 European white and Negro black. Their cloth- 
 ing is as piebald as their breed and their co- 
 lour ; some going nearly naked, others half- 
 clad, and many full-dressed in Portuguese or 
 English costume. The Roman Catholics in 
 India have seven bishops, and their numbers in 
 each diocese have been computed by the Abbe 
 Dubois as follow : 
 
 Under the Metropolitan, the Archbishop 
 
 of Goa ..... 
 Under the Archbishop of Cranganore 
 Under the Bishop of Cochin . * 
 
 Under the Bishop of St. Thome . 
 Under the Bishop of Bombay 
 Under the Bishop of Pondicherry 
 Under the Bishop of Yirapoli 
 
 500,000 
 200,000 
 30,000 
 60,000 
 10,000 
 36,000 
 80,000 
 
 916,000 
 
 May 2. We left Goa on the 25th of April, and 
 have been at Cananore since the 27th, making 
 preparations for our journey onward towards 
 Bangalore. The lion-ant ( formica- Ico) abounds 
 in dry places here. It forms in the ground a 
 sort of funnel, about an inch in diameter at the 
 top, and sloping to three-quarters of an inch at 
 the bottom. In this den, under a cover of 
 loose sand or light dust, it lies in ambush, with 
 the top of its head scarcely perceptible above 
 the level, watching till an ant of another species, 
 or a small insect of any kind, happens to tres- 
 puss upon its preserve, when, in an instant, it 
 involves the stranger in such a cloud of dust and 
 sand, which it throws up, that, bewilde'red and 
 confounded* it becoim s an easy capture. The 
 rullian then seizes, kills, and dni^s it away into 
 his hole, or devours it upon the spot, as we have 
 often witnessed. This insect of prey, fitly call- 
 ed the lion-ant, is about three-quarters of an 
 inch in length, from the forceps to the abrupt 
 tail-end. The body is oval, like that of the 
 tick or sheep-louse, of a dirty brown colour; 
 the back raised, and marked with eight ringlets, 
 and two lines of black dots running down it. 
 The neck is long ; the eyes are protuberant ; 
 and the forceps meet in very sharp points. 
 These, as well as the neck, are exceedingly 
 strung, to hold and hurry off its victims, back- 
 wards or forwards, according to its conveni- 
 ence. The white ants are surprisingly active 
 and ingenious. On passing a cluster of their 
 me d;iy, by the road-side, Mr. Tyerman 
 broke several of them up, to examine their in- 
 ternal structure, at the same time demolishing 
 their peaked crests. On returning, about two 
 hours afterwards, he found every orifice and 
 cranny closed up again with earth, so completely 
 as to prevent rain, or light, or any insect- 
 in\ailer, from entering. The bears are the most 
 formidable enemies to these termites. We have 
 repeatedly noticed large ant-hills which had 
 just been stormed and depopulated by those 
 freebooters, whose uncouth footsteps were 
 printed all over the ruins of the destroyed 
 cities. 
 
 A trifling anecdote has been told us here, 
 
 which shows that, to make soldiers in India, 
 and even commanders, a liberal education is not 
 always necessary. A young native gentleman, 
 an officer, at Cananore, one evening, looking at 
 his watch to ascertain the time, found that it 
 had stopped, he having neglected to wind it up. 
 Anxious, however, to know what o'clock it was, 
 and recollecting that Captain B. had just con- 
 structed a very excellent sun-dial, he called for 
 a lantern and candle, that he might see what 
 hour it was by the new and strange chronometer 
 of which he had heard so much. 
 
 May 5. Yesterday evening we reached 
 Maiiantoddy, fifty-five miles from Cananore. 
 This village is built in a situation four thousand 
 feet above the level of the sea ; consequently 
 the climate is delightful, after travelling over 
 the arid sands and through the sultry valleys 
 adjacent. 
 
 Wild elephants are frequent in this neigh- 
 bourhood ; but when they go in herds they are 
 seldom mischievous, indeed they generally re- 
 tire at the approach of man, as shy of him. On 
 the other hand, a solitary one one that has 
 been expelled from the community for bad con- 
 duct is very dangerous, and will sometimes 
 attack without provocation. A short time ago 
 an elephant that was feeding by itself was 
 thoughtlessly shot at by a young officer, when 
 instantly the enraged brute pursued, overtook, 
 and, with one blow of its trunk, laid him dead 
 on the ground. Then, after leisurely survey- 
 ing the body, it first set a foot upon it ; next, 
 with its tusks, threw it into the air ; and lastly, 
 with savage deliberation, trampled over its vic- 
 tim's remains from head to foot, and left them 
 so crushed upon the earth that not a whole bone 
 was found in the skin, and the corpse was 
 pressed as flat as a board. 
 
 Tigers also abound here. About two months 
 ago, within a few miles of this place, a royal 
 tigress and her two full-grown cubs were traced 
 through the jungle to their haunt in a dense 
 thicket. Thereupon all the brave spirits in the 
 country, for many miles round, four hundred in 
 number, rose in mass to attack and destroy the 
 tremendous depredators, from whose fangs 
 neither man nor beast could be secure, at home 
 or abroad. Armed with spears, they assembled 
 as near the spot as it was prudent to venture. 
 First of all they lighted fires at small distances 
 all round it ; and these they kept burning, 
 night and day, till within the circle of them 
 they had constructed a net of strong ropes eight 
 feet in height a perfect line of circumvallation. 
 The next step in the siege was to commence 
 cutting down the trees and underwood, from 
 the circumference towards the centre, where 
 lay the concealed citadel of the enemy. At 
 length, approaching too near to be tolerated 
 any longer with impunity, the tigress bounded 
 from her stronghold, and attempted to escape, 
 but she was received at once on the points of 
 fifteen spears, that fixed her in a moment to the 
 earth. Her two cubs were soon dislodged, and 
 as speedily despatched. These animals measured 
 ten feet each in length, from the tip of the 
 snout to the root of the tail. Their carcases 
 
254 
 
 PENDULOUS BEES'-NESTS ROYAL ELEPHANT-CARRIAGE. 
 
 were hung up on the branches of lofty trees, to 
 rot in sun and wind ; the people assigning as 
 their reason for this gibbeting of the slain 
 monsters, that their god, Same, likes to see such 
 things. 
 
 This is a land flowing with honey. The 
 bees construct their combs in trees, and attach 
 them to the strong branches. On one cotton- 
 tree, hard by this village, a gentleman counted 
 a hundred and eighty of such distinct hives, 
 belonging to as many swarms. It might, in- 
 deed, be called a " realm of bees," comprehend- 
 ing so many " towered cities," filled with the 
 "busy hum"* of their industrious population. 
 The natives take these nests in the night-time, 
 by making a fire under the tree ; then, ascend- 
 ing the stem,] wrapped in a thick woollen cloth 
 which they call a compally, when they have 
 reached the boughs, they cut "off the combs, 
 leaving them to fall upon the ground. The honey 
 and wax in this district are farmed by one man, of 
 the government, who pays about twenty-five 
 hundred rupees for the monopoly. The bee is 
 a very small species, and its products of both 
 kinds are deemed excellent. 
 
 May 7. Here is a famous fish-pagoda, on the 
 bunks of the river Manaiitoddy. It bears that 
 name because, at the annual festival of the idol- 
 worship in it, the pilgrims who resort hither 
 have been in the habit, from time immemorial, 
 of feeding the fishes in the adjacent stream with 
 rice, which they hold in their hands in the 
 water, and the creatures are so tame that they 
 come in shoals and eat the food thus presented 
 to them. Many of the pensioners of this pious 
 bounty are enormously fat and overgrown, but 
 it would be impiety to kill or harm one of them, 
 as they are held sacred. 
 
 May 9. From Manantoddy, which we left 
 this d:iy, the road, though excellent, lies through 
 dense, damp, and pestiferous jungles, the abode 
 of wild animals. In the afternoon our bearers 
 suddenly set up the cry of " Huttee ! huttee /" 
 that is, " An elephant! an elephant!" They 
 immediately put down the palanquins, and 
 began to shout with all their strength of lungs, 
 in which we heartily joined them, and soon had 
 the satisfaction to see the dreaded animal 
 being a solitary one moving off into the thick- 
 est part of the copse-wood. The bearers in 
 general, when peril of this kind is so nigh, take 
 care of themselves by climbing up the trees as 
 quick as they can, leaving their employers to 
 escape as they may. Happily (providentially, 
 we may say) ours behaved with more courage 
 and humanity. 
 
 May 10. Though we contined travelling all 
 last night, we met with no further alarm or 
 molestation. As the road approaches Mysore, 
 the country becomes more open and cultivated ; 
 the jungles being extensively cleared, and 
 hedge-rows, as in England, partitioning the 
 fields. At nine o'clock this morning we reached 
 the city, and went immediately to the house of 
 Mr. Casamajor, the British resident, who had 
 
 " TowerM cities please us thcu, 
 And the busy hum of men." 
 
 MILTON'S L' ALLEGRO. 
 
 politely sent us a previous invitation to be his 
 guests. From him and other gentlemen of My- 
 sore, to whom he introduced us, we expe; 
 those courteous attentions which, at ever 
 of this tour, and, we may add, of all our pere- 
 grinations, we have received from our country- 
 men in foreign lands. This umvalled city is of 
 great extent, and contains nearly a hundred 
 thousand inhabitants ; having rapidly increased 
 in wealth and importance since the rajah was 
 liberated from bondage to Tippoo Saib, and re- 
 stored by the English to his dominions as a 
 nominally independent prince. He is pro- 
 hibited from residing in Seringapatam, -which 
 was formerly the strongly-fortified capital of the 
 Mysore country. A British resident and suite 
 are always at Mysore, to take care of the pro- 
 perty of the rajah, to pay his troops, and regulate 
 their motions. 
 
 -May 11. At eight o'clock this morning we 
 were gratified with an airing, in grand st\le. in 
 the Rajah of Mysore's elephant-carriage, by tin- 
 favour of our kind host, Mr. Casamajor. This 
 state coach is twenty-four feet long, twehe 
 wide, and reaches twenty from the ground to 
 the top of the canopy. The fore-wheels are 
 six feet in diameter, and the hinder seven and 
 a half. The body, which is octagonal, is sus- 
 pended by four huge hinges, aad capable of 
 accommodating forty persons. In the centre, 
 elevated three steps, there is a smaller car of an 
 oval form, with two semicircular seats placi-d 
 Ms-a-vis for the royal family, under a splendid 
 canopy, supported by pillars, having 
 lamps attached to them. The space within the 
 body a found this throne, as it may be called, is 
 without seats; the prince's attendants beiiii; 
 required to stand in his presence. Over the 
 whole carriage there is a general awni: 
 tended on double pillars at each angle of the 
 octagon. The drapery is richly embellished 
 with fringe and tassels, and the wood-work 
 painted with the most brilliant colours, height- 
 ened by gilding. The weight cannot be 1< v S 
 than that of ten English mail-coaches. Six 
 large elephants, two abreast, were harnessed to 
 this vehicle, in the manner of post-horses, \\ilh 
 saddles and leathern traces. A lacqu< 
 mounted upon the neck of each, who guided 
 their motions, while a state driver sat upon a 
 box in front, and gave general orders. The 
 animals were very tractable, and went at the 
 pace of about four miles an hour. After a rule 
 of something less than that time and distance 
 we dismounted. This carriage is never n-rd 
 by the rajah, except on solemn or festive occa- 
 sions. 
 
 Near the rajah's palace stands a pagoda, the 
 lofty tower of which is crowded with i 
 and ornaments, glittering with burnished gold. 
 This pagoda was originally built at Serinra- 
 patani, but after the overthrow of that city the 
 materials were brought hither piecemeal," and 
 reconstructed. In what is called the Fort (a 
 lesser town within the larger) there is a square, 
 in which bull and ram, tiger and elephant, 
 fights are occasionally exhibited to the people. 
 At one of their animal-festivals the rajah him- 
 
BANGALORE ANTS'-NESTS. 
 
 255 
 
 self takes a part in the sports of the clay, and, 
 among other exercises, shoots with the bow at a 
 tiger, when, according to the success or failure 
 of his aim, the fortune of the ensuing year is 
 augured. His Highness, however, is an excellent 
 marksman, and the last time when he tried his 
 hand he sent the arrow right through the body 
 of the tiger, from a distance of forty paces. 
 Near this station is the famous Mysore Hill, 
 which rises abruptly from the plain to an eleva- 
 tion of ."a thousand feet. On the face of this, 
 which is sienite rock, has been carved a colossal 
 bull twenty-two feet high, though recumbent, 
 as the sacred bull is always represented. To- 
 wards evening we visited Seringapatam, which 
 stands about nine miles from ]Vlysore. This 
 city can be looked upon with no every-day 
 feelings, as one of the proudest, yet most hum- 
 bling, memorials of departed grandeur and em- 
 pire. The names of Hyder Ali and Tippoo 
 Saib, on the spot where their ruined palaces 
 and their well-preserved tombs yet show where 
 they reigned and where they rot, must awaken 
 strange and entrancing associations in the mind 
 accustomed to view man as the perpetual inha- 
 bitant of the world, while men are its ever- 
 changing guests, coming and going, even as 
 the moments which make up existence come 
 and go, in that uninterrupted succession which 
 constitutes time. This city is now become so 
 unhealthy that nearly all the British have 
 forsaken it ; the cause of this nuisance seems 
 not to have been clearly ascertained. It was 
 intimated to us that intemperate habits, more 
 than the locality or the atmosphere, were for- 
 merly the worst enemies of European life here.J 
 Bangalore, in the country of the Mysore, is 
 one of the most extensive military cantonments 
 in Peninsular India, and will accommodate 
 8000 troops, infantry and cavalry. The situation 
 is highly salubrious, not being too hot for Eu- 
 ropean constitutions. It is elevated above the 
 sea about 8000 feet. The hot season is very 
 moderate, the cold healthy and bracing. Near 
 the lines is a fort of great, extent, being a mile 
 in circuit, with strong walls and a deep ditch. 
 But as a fort it is neglected, and greatly needs 
 repairs. Near the fort is the pettah, or town, 
 of Bangalore, of considerable size, containing a 
 population of from 25,000 to 30,000 souls, who 
 speak the Caiiarese language. They are mostly 
 Hindoos, but a small proportion of them being 
 Mahommedans. The swamy-houses (small 
 pagodas God is called Swamy) are numerous ; 
 but there is no pagoda of great size. Monkeys 
 here are very numerous ; and swarms of them 
 are seen on the roofs of the houses, no one dis- 
 turbing or in any way molesting them ; but, on 
 the contrary, they are regularly fed, and are 
 regarded as citizens, entitled to both protection 
 and support. The houses are low and built 
 with mud walls, a few brick buildings excepted, 
 with flat roofs made also of mud. The main 
 streets are sufficiently wide and regular. On 
 another side of the cantonment is the Bazaar, 
 or Malabar town, inhabited principally by camp- 
 followers, and containing a population equal to 
 that of the pettah just named. The houses, 
 
 as in the former, are built with mud walls, but 
 their roofs are thatched and elevated. Here 
 the Tamil language is spoken. Hindoostanee 
 is everywhere the vernacular language of the 
 Mahommedans, and is spoken in common 
 among themselves ; but they are also ac- 
 quainted with the language of the people 
 among whom they reside, and speak it with as 
 much correctness and fluency as other natives. 
 For Missionaries therefore to learn the Hin- 
 doostanee, for the sake of being understood by 
 the Mahommedans, is generally unnecessary 
 unless they are wholly devoted to their instruc- 
 tion. 
 
 June 11. On our way from Bangalore, 
 through Durmanporry, we passed the night in 
 a village, Bungalore, our bearers requiring rest. 
 Having ordered a curry a fowl dressed with 
 rice to be prepared, we waited a couple of 
 hours with as much patience as could well be 
 expected from persons who had tasted nothing 
 since daybreak when at length, to our no small 
 surprise and chagrin, the cook brought us a 
 sieve-full of pieces of charcoal. On explanation 
 it was found that, not knowing the right pro- 
 nunciation of the word, we had used one which 
 signified the last thing to which hungry men 
 would look for nourishment. Blunders of this 
 kind often occur. At length we made ourselves 
 unequivocally understood, by signs which can- 
 not be mistaken in any country ; and, after 
 waiting three hours longer, the curry was 
 brought, and we were well content. 
 
 June 14. At Salem, Mr. Cockburn, the col- 
 lector and magistrate (who in many things 
 showed us great kindness), ordered five of his 
 servants to break up a white ants' nest, to sa- 
 tisfy our curiosity respecting these admirable 
 structures, which everywhere abound in India. 
 Though this was not one of the largest, being 
 only twelve feet in circuit and about a yard 
 deep, it occupied the workmen two hours to 
 accomplish the disruption. Five exterior open- 
 ings, from two to four inches in diameter, led 
 downwards into the heart of the insect-city. 
 From these, numerous ducts branched out in 
 all directions, like veins from arteries; appa- 
 rently without reference to any regular plan. 
 At the depth mentioned, the main roads ter- 
 minated, the soil below being loose sand. In 
 every part connecting with these means of in- 
 tercourse were large cavities ; some of which 
 might have contained a child's head, others were 
 long and oval. These were rilled with cells, 
 composed of materials very different from the 
 soil, being of a brown colour, light and spungy, 
 like the substance which grows on the stems 
 and decayed stumps of trees. These systems 
 of cells were all hemispherical above, and some- 
 what concave below, and corresponding in 
 shape and size with the cavity in which each 
 was placed. They were constructed with great 
 exactness, floor above floor, with suiHcirnt 
 spaces between to allow the ants to pass and 
 cross freely, when they met in the same avenue. 
 The cells in each cavity communicated with one 
 another, by small holes, either round or in ( nu- 
 lar. These were for the reception of the eggs, 
 
2*6 
 
 A CHAMELEON NILGHERRY Mo I , .\TAI.\s. 
 
 and the accommodation of the young ants, of 
 which, in this commonwealth, there were some 
 hundreds >!' thousands, in the different stages 
 of growth. Our workmen were very careful to 
 examine each hollow, as it was opened, in order 
 to discover a queen-ant. Near the bottom, 
 one of these was found, lying motionless on a 
 shelf, surrounded by multitudes of her progeny. 
 She was a young one, about the size of a child's 
 fore-ringer. A larger and older specimen of 
 this "sex of queens," nearly four inches long, 
 was soon afterwards made prisoner. The 
 queen-ant is a most singular insect, having no 
 resemblance to her subjects, except the head, 
 to which a body is attached of a cylindrical form, 
 cream-coloured, with darker spots, and marked 
 with four longitudinal stripes, half an inch long, 
 and equi-distant. Every two or three seconds 
 she protruded eggs, which her attendants car- 
 ried off as quickly to deposit in their respective 
 cells. The insect has no legs, the rudiments of 
 such, which appear, being altogether impotent 
 for locomotion. Through the long laboratory 
 of her body, there \\;is a continual undulation 
 from head to tail, which seemed necessary to 
 the delivery of her eggs. The latter were very 
 small, and had the appearance of transparent 
 jelly. We computed that thirty thousand of 
 these might be produced in twenty-four hours. 
 The operations and power of mischief of these 
 ants (termites) are very remarkable, scarcely 
 any substance being proof against their corro- 
 sive secretions. Mr. Cockburn told us that on 
 lea\ ing his house, on one occasion, his butler 
 plaeed a number -of tumblers and other glasses 
 on a shelf'. On his return, the month 
 wards, all these were found covered with earth, 
 brought by termites, and so disposed as to form 
 innumerable covered ways along the sides of 
 the glasses; the surfaces of which, when this 
 | incrustation was removed, were found to be 
 grooved with various lines by the little crea: 
 whether by mechanical attrition or tv 
 secretions may be doubtful. By the latter, 
 most probably ; and the fact seems to be esta- 
 blished by the testimony of Captain Jones (who 
 sailed with Mr. Benuet from Cape Town in 
 IS'JK), \\ho had seen i | which the 
 
 slime of the termite had been leftfor a consider- 
 able time, marked in the same manner as by 
 the point of an engraver's burin. 
 
 June 1."). A chameleon was brought to us. It 
 had been in confinement for two months, tied 
 to a stick, about which it clung by the t 
 tail, and remained, day and night, without mo- 
 tion (except of its eyes) and without food. 
 From the snout to the tip of the tail it measured 
 fifteen inches, of which the head and body were 
 only se\en. The. general form was that of a 
 lizard, but this varies exceedingly under different 
 circumstances. "When frightened, the little 
 creature swells out the abdomen, curves the 
 back, and seems full of flesh, at ordinary times 
 meagre and ill-favoured. The legs and thighs 
 are of equal thickness. Over each e\ 
 elevated circular ridge; from the back of the 
 head a similar excrescence rises, and extends 
 about an inch, like a hood, from the temples 
 
 over the neck. The eye is a surprising struc- 
 ture, and in constant motion. The socket is 
 a cone, half an inch in diameter at th- 
 and nearly half an inch high ; in the centre of 
 which the eye is placed, the size of a large pin- 
 head, very bright and lively, surrounded by an 
 iris, which has sometimes the appearance of a 
 minute convex lens, set in a ring of the purest 
 gold. This formation gives the animal the 
 power of seeing as well behind as before, both 
 upwards and downwards ; and the eyes, which 
 are continually turning about, have the singular 
 faculty of looking, at the same time, in contrary 
 directions. The mouth, which reaches the 
 whole length backward o: the head, is constant- 
 ly shut, and so close that a mere line intimates 
 its situation. From the chin a serrated white 
 fleshy substance, the eighth of an inch wide, 
 extends downwards under the belly, narrowing 
 as it lengthens. The legs are three inches long, 
 with a joint: the feet are divided into two 
 lobes ; the one stands inward, which in the fore- 
 feet terminates in three sharp claws, the outer 
 having but two ; these are reversed on the 
 !ect. The soles of all four are soft and 
 flabby, their whole construction being adapted 
 to climbing and adhering to branches <.: 
 The tail is numerously jointed, and equally 
 suited to winding round, and hold. 
 lar per. change of colour with the 
 
 chameleon is not entirely fabulous. It some- 
 times appears of a A hid irret-n, mottled with 
 '\hite spots; from which it occasionally 
 turns to a deep chocolate, almost black, when 
 the spots nearly disappear. ith the 
 
 intermediate shades, are the only hues which 
 we have seen our chameleon assume, after keep- 
 ing it the weeks. During this period, to our 
 knowledge, food of no kin>; . to it ; 
 
 and for two months preceding it had been equally 
 abstinent. 
 
 June 30. The last ii\ have spent 
 
 under the hospitable roof of Mr. Sullivon, at 
 ( totakamund, on the Nilirherry Mountains the 
 Einjhnul of Indiii, as that beautiful, temperate, 
 and healthy region may be called. Till the 
 ad was made, about rive years ago, man 
 had probably never before p. jungle 
 
 haunted by elephants and tigers wi> 
 eircli-s the lower ascents. At the height of 
 live thousand feet, vegetation of the lovelie>t 
 and most luxuriant kind is seen. T.. 
 here runs along the brink of a declivity, down 
 which it is fearful to look; afterwards it winds 
 round a vast rock, among hills, -v;ii 
 and cataracts, forming a scene of lonelin 
 sublimity equal to any we 1 
 the most romantic parts of Tahiti or Oahu. 
 Ootakamund, which is SOOO feet above the level 
 of the sea, was so cold that we were inconve- 
 nienced by it, and anticipated our return to the 
 heated plains below with pleasure. But, though 
 we were disappointed in onr object, two im- 
 portant ends were gained by this visit : first, 
 .rtained the climate of these hills, which 
 have been but lately known to Lurope;. 
 which lias been recommended as highly import- 
 ant to such European invalids as ha\ 
 
THE BOA-CONSTRICTOR SCARECROWS. 
 
 257 
 
 debilitated by a residence in these sultry climes. 
 And we are of opinion that no Missionary in 
 these countries, labouring under such debility, 
 should ever return to England, when the reco- 
 very of his health is the only object, till he has 
 paid a visit to these hills, where he will rind a 
 climate so much resembling that of England as 
 to justify the hope that such cases of disease as 
 would be benefited by the one would be as 
 much so by the other. 
 
 We were delighted to find nourishing here, 
 as in their native soil, many flowers and plants 
 common in our own country, where also they 
 grow wild in the pasturq-grounds. Among 
 these, were docks and brambles, geraniums and 
 in profusion; while fields of barley and 
 oats waved in various directions. The general 
 aspect of the. mountains, as we proceeded up- 
 ward, was that of sheep-downs bold, rounded, 
 and clothed with grass, but having few trees or 
 
 bushes, except occasional clumps of overhang- 
 ing woods. Though the sun shone out the 
 greater part of the day, the temperature of the 
 atmosphere was like that of the month of May 
 in England, cool and balmy : " inspiring vernal 
 delight and joy." Indeed, it was difficult to 
 imagine oneself within the torridzone, and only 
 thirteen degrees north of the line. The ther- 
 mometer at the highest point did not exceed 70. 
 Mr. Sullivan's house stands in an ample hol- 
 low, surrounded by picturesquely-varied moun- 
 tains, nine thousand feet above the sea. From 
 this exhilarating elevation the eye looks down 
 over the immensity of descending steeps to the 
 immeasurable champaigns below, as from that 
 earthly paradise which the Italian poets repre- 
 sent to be similarly situated, furthest from the 
 earth, and nearest to the moon ; where the souls 
 delivered from purgatory rest till the time ap- 
 pointed for their reception into heaven. 
 
 
 July 28. The boa-constrictor serpent is often 
 found in the south of Hindustan. At Quilon 
 .in- of these ministers was killed, and brought 
 into the house where we were sojourning. It 
 
 .d nine feet, iii !'!!_ ;tli. A short time 
 ago a woman, having left her child, six months 
 old, in the jungle alone for a few minutes, on 
 
 .irn to the p] i it. She gave the 
 
 alarm immediately, and the, thicke! heing 
 M-arrhnd a huge boa-constrictor, was discovered 
 and killed on the spot. In its gorge the poor 
 infant was found, swallowed down whole. 
 
 Aug. 2. We have often observed a favourite 
 kind of scarecrow placed in the rice-lields, not 
 to protect the grain from being plundered and 
 wasted by the birds of the air, but toward oil' 
 from it the. influences of evil eyes, in which the 
 Hindoos most potently believe. The black 
 i'a man, rudely carved, is placed in the 
 midst of the growing crop, so conspicuously as 
 to arrest tho attention of every passenger, when, 
 if any one happens to have an evil eye, at tho 
 first look this figure draws all the pestilent vir- 
 tue out of it upon its own head, as surely as a 
 
258 
 
 CIVET-CATS RIGHT AND LEFT-HAND CASTES. 
 
 touch receives the charge of an electric battery ; 
 and the guarded paddy remains unhurt. 
 
 Aug. 4. In the palace of the llanee, or so- 
 vereign princess, at Trivanderam, among other 
 curiosities we saw several civet-cats, which are 
 caught in the jungles among the mountains. 
 They are carefully kept in cages, having a bam- 
 boo placed perpendicularly in the same ; and 
 against this the creatures rub the parts from 
 which the precious perfume oozes ; whereby her 
 Royal Highness is supplied with what she re- 
 quires for her own use, in native purity. 
 jglj'Aug. 9. Cape Comorin, the southern point of 
 the Indian peninsula, being only three miles 
 from the village of Agatees, where we had 
 lodged, we went early in the morning to see 
 this " land's end." There are a few houses of 
 Brahmins, and several pagodas, near the spot. 
 One of the latter is very spacious, and ranks 
 among the most sacred enclosures in the country. 
 Of course it is a place of great resort for pil- 
 grims, who come hither, on the festivals, to 
 present gifts to the goddess, and to bathe in the 
 sea. An idol is brought annually from Surin- 
 derum, to make love to Cania Kummara (for 
 that is her name, from which also the Cape de- 
 rives its appellation), and propose marriage to 
 her. She demands of him that he shall prepare 
 ground, sow rice, and cause it to spring up and 
 ripen for the wedding-feast. This feat of hus- 
 bandry, however (as the sole condition on which 
 she \\ ill accept him), she requires to be done 
 all in one day; and, as none of her wooers have 
 ever yet been able to accomplish it, the goddess 
 has never been won. 
 
 This extremity of the continent is rocky and 
 barren. A violent sea is constantly breaking 
 on the. shore, and against a reef which runs out 
 into the water. In doubling the Cape, there- 
 fore, it is necessary for ship-; to stand out at a 
 considerable distance from the land. 
 
 An::. :>0. The present is the season of one of 
 the Hindoo festivals, when dreadful fends gene- 
 I rally arise between the right-ha, 
 the left-hand ones. The tumult and uproar, 
 accompanied with fierce conflicts, have con- 
 tinued here (at Madura) for several days. The 
 whole dispute is about the manner of perform- 
 ing a certain ceremony. The right-hands con- 
 tend that to them only belongs the privilege of 
 presenting their offerings to the common idols 
 of both parties, mounted upon elephants. The 
 lefts contend that they have as much right to 
 ride on the occasion as their antagonists ; eaeh 
 faction, of course, endeavours to prevent the 
 other from presenting their offerings at all. 
 This miserable schism has existed for genera- 
 tions. It is said that when a certain great cap- 
 tain was serving in India, at one of these fes- 
 tivals of discord, the usual qmrrels (which, in 
 truth, are just as rational as if a man's right 
 hand should fall out with his left, and each 
 should attempt to prevent the other from serving 
 the mouth) became so desperate, that he seized 
 two ringleaders of each party, and, having con- 
 victed them of endangering the public pi ace, 
 ordered them in turn to he blown to pieces from 
 the mouth of a cannon. This prompt execution 
 
 for a while struck so much terror into the bulk 
 of the mischief-makers as to restrain them from 
 similar disorders for some time afterwards ; but 
 latterly they have been revived with character- 
 istic asperity. "We understand it to be the fact 
 (though we do not recollect having heard it men- 
 tioned before we came hither), that the whole 
 native Hindoo population are divided in this 
 sectarian manner, whatever their castes may be, 
 into right and left-hand men. Hence, the 
 former being deemed the holier of the two in 
 the human economy, those who take their 
 names from it in the social system assume cor- 
 responding superiority. The right hand must 
 always give and receive presents; any breach 
 of this etiquette would be deemed a hiirli af- 
 front. The left hand is condemned to perform 
 all the meaner offices of life, being regarded as 
 unclean. 
 
 The Hindoos are habitually we had almost 
 said constitutionally covetous. Much of their 
 ordinary conversation with one another i- 
 rupees and property. This spirit neve 
 the man possessed by it, till his own spirit 
 leaves his body. "When sick, and appn 
 of danger, they often bury th- within 
 
 the house, anil under the place whereon they 
 sleep, to secure it during their illness, ami have 
 it at hand if they recover. Sometii: 
 of spite to their heirs, they hide it in holes, 
 where they hope neither the latter nor an\ < 'in- 
 cise can find it after their decease. It is not 
 uncommon, when the pos-i hoard, 
 
 which he has not made away with, is d\in_r, for 
 him to say to his wife, or his friend (io whom 
 lie may ba\e given it in charge), "Oh, do 
 bring me that hag of money, that : 
 once more look upon it before I leave tin- 
 world '." 
 
 When at Quilon w< 
 
 twenty-four hours from Cotyin, and the S\rian 
 churches, which have excited so lively an in- 
 terest among Christians in England ; and being 
 aware that the worthy Church Missionaries 
 there wished to see us, and that our having seen 
 those Christians would he hurhh 
 our Mission: we iv-ohed to pay them 
 
 a short visit. Dr. Mac-mley lent us hi- boat ; 
 we proceeded up the Backwater (a se. 
 lakes running parallel with the sea-shore north- 
 ward, and seventy-live miles from Quilon), and 
 arrhed next day. Our pious and excellent 
 friends received us with all the cordiality and 
 joy of brethren and sisters, and showed us no 
 small kindness. "We saw all that was ; 
 for the short time of our visit, both of t'. 
 of these churches and of this Mission among 
 them : we shall give you a general idea in as 
 few words as we can. The whole S\rian popu- 
 lation inTravancore amounts to 13,000 families, 
 perhaps about 70,000 individuals. They have 
 fifty-five churches still in their hands ; the 
 papists have appropriated several oti. 
 themselves. These churches, in general, re- 
 semble the parish churches of our own country. 
 though of course they are of various si. 
 differ much as to the ityle of architecture. Some 
 of them are respectable buildings, and of 
 
TRIVANDERAM; AND THE KINGDOM OF TRAVANCORE. 
 
 259 
 
 siderable extent. They have neither pews nor 
 benches inside. At the east end there is a kind 
 of altar, with steps, on which a cross is placed, 
 and tapers lighted in time of worship. Their 
 mode of worship strongly resembles that of the 
 Armenian churches, and strikingly approaches, 
 in different ceremonies, those of the church of 
 Rome. Though they have crosses in their 
 churches, there is no crucifix nor carved image. 
 The service is read in the Syriac language, of 
 which the people know nothing ; and but few 
 of the Catenars are acquainted with it. The 
 Catcnars are the priests. Here is no preaching, 
 and nothing in the whole service for their edi- 
 fication, but a short extract from one of the 
 Gospels, which is read in the Malayalim lan- 
 iruaire, which is the language of these Syrian 
 Christians. Of course they are in a state of the 
 most wretched ignorance. In fact, these 
 churches arc but so many limbs of popery, from 
 which, as to doctrinal sentiment, they do not 
 essentially dilier. The Church Missionaries 
 have for their object the introduction of the 
 pure gospel among these benighted Christians. 
 The licv. Mr. Bayley is engaged in translating 
 and printing the 'Scriptures in the Malayalim 
 language, and has made considerable progress. 
 The Ki-v. .Mr. Doran is at the head of the 
 college, in which are fifty-one students and stout 
 twenty-eight of these are intended to be 
 Catenars. 
 
 Trlrttiidcram. This is the capital of the 
 kingdom of Travancore. It is situated about 
 mid-way between Nagercoil and Quilon, and is 
 about forty miles distant from each place, on 
 the main road which leads from the one to the 
 other, and within a mile of the sea-shore. It 
 is an extensive city, with wide streets, the 
 houses stand ing, in general, in separate com- 
 pounds, and have a respectable appearance. 
 The style of architecture is peculiar to this 
 country, anil tin- population must be very con- 
 siderable, though we were not able to form or 
 obtain an estimate. The neighbourhood is like- 
 wise populous, and abounds with villages. The 
 nnee'f palace is here, an extensive building, 
 invir which is a larire pagoda ; the rest in this 
 city are generally small. Near the city is the 
 house of the resident ; when here he takes up 
 his abode there. On the same side of the city 
 are the barracks for the native troops, all the 
 principal olliecrs of \\hich are also Englishmen. 
 Here is also a medical gentleman, Dr. Provan, 
 a respectable and kind man, who attends on the 
 ranee and the young rajahs. Cocoa-nut trees 
 and palmyras grow in every part of the city, 
 and the houses enjoy the benefit of their shade. 
 An artificial canal extends from the lower part 
 of the city, runs parallel with the shore, and 
 forms a communication with the extensive 
 Backwater, which stretches down to Angengo. 
 
 Nagercoil, or Nayracoil. This name comes 
 from Nayur, a serpent ; and coil or covil, a 
 church, or place of worship. There is an an- 
 cient Hindoo pagoda here, at which the serpent 
 is worshipped. This village, surrounded by 
 several others very near, is situated not far from 
 the southern extremity of the ghauts, or moun- 
 
 tains, which extend through this peninsula from 
 north to south, near the western coast. It is 
 also near to the southern extremity of the king- 
 dom of Travancore, and fourteen miles north 
 from Cape Comorin. It is in lat. N. 8 12', and 
 long. E. 77 31'. The face of the country 
 around is well wooded, slightly undulated, and 
 rich in well-watered paddy-grounds. The lofty, 
 abrupt, and picturesque ghauts are seen to 
 the eastward, extending to the north and south 
 as far as the eye can reach. The scenery is 
 highly romantic and beautiful. The vicinity of 
 Nagercoil is very populous. The inhabitants 
 are Brahmins, goldsmiths, shopkeepers, weavers, 
 carpenters, sharnars (or the climbers of the 
 palmyra-trees), &c. The pagoda above referred 
 to is the only one here of considerable size ; the 
 rest are very numerous, but small, and are 
 called swamy-houses, at which idols are wor- 
 shipped which the very people who pay them 
 homage call Pishasha (or devils). Idolatry ap- 
 pears throughout Travancore in a more primi- 
 tive form, and less deteriorated, than in any 
 other part of India ; and the Brahmins were 
 more particular in excluding us from their idol- 
 temples. 
 
 The kingdom of Travancore possesses still a 
 nominal independence, and is under the govern- 
 ment of a ranee, or queen, who is regent for her 
 nephew, who will be of age to ascend {he throne 
 in about a year. Trivanderam is the capital 
 city. There is the ranee's palace, and the seat 
 of government. The government, though 
 Hindoo, is singularly liberal, and has, from the 
 earliest ages, granted free toleration to other 
 religions, as the continuance of the Syrian 
 churches demonstrates. The government has 
 never opposed any difficulties in the way of our 
 Missionaries. The Roman Catholics are nume- 
 rous in Travancore ; and their churches extend 
 along the sea-shore, at the distance of two or 
 three miles from each other. So much atten- 
 tion is paid by the government to the freedom 
 and to the rights of Christians, of all denomina- 
 tions in common, that every court of justice is 
 provided with a Christian judge, who may he- 
 long to any denomination Protestant, Syrian, 
 or Roman Catholic. Colonel Morison is the 
 English resident at the court. This gentleman 
 bears a high character as a man and as a sol- 
 dier; a character which is still more exalted 
 by its being associated with the principles of 
 Christianity. 
 
 The kingdom of Travancore, nearly the whole 
 length of which we have travelled, forms one of 
 the most rich and beautiful parts of Peninsular 
 India. Nearly all the land which is susceptible 
 of it is in a high state of cultivation ; the dry 
 soils being planted with palmyra-trees, which 
 abound towards the south, and which yield 
 toddy, from \v\iic\\. jaggery (or coarse sugar) is 
 made ; the middle and northern parts bearing 
 cocoa-nut trees, which yield similar products. 
 The low and well-watered grounds are cultivated 
 for rice, or paddy, which they produce in great 
 abundance. The heat is moderate. The build- 
 ings, both sacred and common, the customs and 
 manners of the people, their dress and orna- 
 
 s 2 
 
2(">0 
 
 NAGERCOIL COMBOOCONl M. 
 
 meiits, &c., have a greater appearance of an- 
 tiquity, like their idolatry, and seem to have 
 undergone less change from foreign associations, 
 than those of any other part of Hindustan. 
 
 .No accurate census lias been taken to ascer- 
 tain the population, of this country ; but, from 
 the best information which we could obtain, it 
 contains about one million and a half. Of these 
 from sixty to seventy thousand are Syrian ( hris- 
 tians. Three thousand are Protestants. Of 
 the number of Roman Catholics, and of the 
 Jews at Comorin, we can obtain no account. 
 All the rest are Hindoos, whose sentiments, as 
 to their mythology, and their rites and cere- 
 nionii >s, do not differ essentially from those of 
 the Hindoos in other parts of India. 
 
 The choice of Nagercoil as a Missionary sta- 
 tion is the most desirable in the whole of Tra- 
 vancore, as it is by far the most populous, about 
 two-thirds of the entire population of the king- 
 dom residing south of Trivauderam, between 
 that city and Cape Comorin, distant from each 
 other titty-four miles, over the whole of which 
 our Missionaries have, extended their labours, 
 having schools or chapels, for preaching tin- 
 word of life, scattered over the whole of this 
 part of the country, in which they are operating 
 tin- most important results. 
 
 V\ e lift Nagercoil on the 20th of August to 
 return to Madras by way of Combooconniii, in 
 order to see the state of things there. Mr. 
 Rhenius, of Palamcottah, kindly came t. 
 coil in order to accompany us to that place, and 
 to show us on the road some of the congre- 
 gations connected A\ it h that interesting .Minion, 
 which is in connexion Avith the Church Mis- 
 sionary Sociei\, and whose extreme boundary 
 to the southward touches the Nagercoil Mis- 
 sion. We readied I'alamcottah the next ni^ht. 
 The general features of this Mi i 
 resemble those of Nagercoil, while ail the bre- 
 thren of both are affectionately united. Here 
 is a church of considerable si/e, in which Mr. 
 Rhenius had asseinbk-d a numerous congre- 
 gation, from the -ullages around, to meet us, 
 and where we had an oppoitunity of addressing 
 them on the great change in the islands if tin- 
 South Seas. There are in connexion with this 
 Mission thirty-one native teachers, who preach 
 the gospel in KM? villages, in which 7.")(; families 
 have embraced CliristianiU , which contain '.'.V^ 
 men, women, and children, 257 of whom lune 
 been baptized all heathen, &c. ; thirty children 
 of native Christians ; about 170 of the above, it 
 is hoped, are pious ; eighteen schools, contain- 
 ing 384 boys and nineteen girls ; thirty girls in 
 the free-school; thirty boys in the seminary, 
 training to be readers ; mid thirty boys in the 
 central school, intended to be schoolmasters. 
 
 We left Palamcottah on the 24th of Au-u-t 
 where Mr. Mead had joined us, to accompany 
 us to Madras, in order to attend the district 
 committee-meeting, which had been fixed ibi 
 the iSth of September. We arrived at Madura 
 again on the 2!)th. At this city there is one o 
 the most extraordinary pagodas in all India 
 Its architecture is surprising, and its extent i> 
 ven large, occupying, probably, six times tin 
 
 ground that St. Paul's of London does. This 
 ,vould be a promising Missionary station, and 
 ,ve hope that it will be occupied ere long. A 
 Missionary would be well received there by the 
 English families. We arrived at Trichinopoly 
 on the 3d of September, and were politely re- 
 ceived by Mr. Judge Bird and his lady, at whose 
 louse the late lamented Bishop Heber met his 
 death. This is a military as well as civil esta- 
 blishment. Mr. Wright is a pious clergyman. 
 Here is a Missionary belonging to the Christian 
 Knowledge Society. We reached Tanjore on 
 the 5th, and were kindly received by Mr. Kohl- 
 lioff and Mr. Hanbro, and their ladies. They 
 belong to the same venerable Society. Here 
 the eminent Schwartz laboured for many years ; 
 but the glory is departed. No vital reli 
 to be found in any of the native priests or 
 people. The caste is allowed to exist among 
 them. This canker-worm, identified with the 
 spirit of the world, has destroyed everything 
 resembling genuine religion only the form is 
 left. There is, however, a promising school of 
 ISO boys and girls, under t! :nent of 
 
 the ab. rthy men here. We had a 
 
 very intere-tiiiL' interview with the rajah and 
 i, through the kindness of the resident, 
 Captain I'\f. . -.veil as 
 
 to the hospitality of Captain Twecdie :md his 
 lady, we are much indebted. On the stli we 
 arrived at 
 
 Conbooconu/n. This town is situated 
 banks of the river Cavary, which directs its f, r- 
 tili/ing coni-M- through the rich and .beautiful 
 di>triet of Tanjore, the most fertile in all Penin- 
 sular India. The town is larire, and contain-* 
 four or five ancient and extent -s this 
 
 town was once the capital of the Carnatic. 
 These pagodas are ex: !, and 
 
 hence the town contains a. LT< at number of 
 Brahmins, who subsist on their rc\ 
 Besides these, there are many small \ 
 and - \\amy-houses, and several large tai. 
 of which is regarded by the Hindoos as ] 
 ing great sanctity. The neighbourhood is 
 crowded with large and populous villa _ 
 Early in October we returned to Mad. 
 
 there a few days, pn-\. ! a\in 
 
 India altogether. This city, includimr Fort St 
 . lllack Town, Tiiplicane, St. Thome 
 Royapettah, Pcrsewaukum, Vepery, R 
 1:1111, with some other villages near, co: 
 great population, estimated by some at 1 
 and by others at three times that number. Tin- 
 greatest proportion are Hindoos: here are, be- 
 sides Mahommedans, Persees, Europca.. 
 people from almost all nations : a mixed mul- 
 titude. The Europeans in general reside in 
 the neighbourhood of Madras, in what are 
 called garden-houses, many of which an 
 lent, and beautifully situated in the middle of 
 their respective compounds, and surrounded bj 
 elegant shrubberies. These houses extend U 
 the distance of six or seven miles from the fort. 
 They are occupied by the officers of govern- 
 ment, military gentlemen, merchant-, 
 tradesmen. The fort is, no doubt, one of tin 
 finest in the world. The palace of 
 
LETTER FROM THE DEPUTATION TO THE MISSIONARIES IN INDIA. 261 
 
 is a large and handsome building, situated to 
 the south of the fort, with a view of the sea in 
 front. The Black Town is fortified on the land 
 side, and is open to the sea to the east. It is 
 laid out with great regularity, and contains a 
 large population, principally natives. Here 
 are many good houses. Here also are the 
 mint, and the jail, an Episcopal church, and 
 line of the Mission-chapels, a Roman Catholic 
 and Methodist chapel, mosques and Hindoo 
 pagodas in great numbers, but none of large 
 dimensions. Facing the sea is an extensive row 
 of fine buildings, among which is the supreme 
 court, the custom-house, general post-office, 
 board of trade, and several merchants' houses, 
 &c. Behind these are several very good Euro- 
 pean shops. Excellent water is raised from 
 wells situated on the northern side of Black 
 Town, and is conveyed all over it by means of 
 pipes. In this city it is delightful to find Mis- 
 sionary, Bible, and Tract Societies ; orphan 
 schools for both boys and girls ; various other 
 schools, and many other institutions of a noble 
 and benevolent kind, such as adorn most of the 
 great cities and towns in our own favoured land. 
 Here are many pious and excellent individuals 
 belonging to different denominations, several of 
 whom are amongst the first classes of society, and 
 breathe much of the lovely spirit of the gospel. 
 The neighbourhood of ^Madras is greatly be- 
 nefited and adorned by the rivers and canals, 
 which run in diji'erent directions, and over 
 which several beautiful bridge* are thrown. 
 The roads [are amongst the best in the world ; 
 and, though the climate is hot, the locality is 
 considered as very healthy. 
 
 CHAPTER XLYI1I. 
 
 Abstract of the Fan-well I,. -Her of the Deputation to the 
 luiii's on the various stations of the Society in 
 Judia. 
 
 Isle of France, Dec. 7, 1827. 
 
 I)r..\p. and esteemed Friends and Brethren, 
 
 Having, as a Deputation from the London 
 
 Missionary Society, completed our official visits 
 
 to you, its honoured friends and associates in 
 
 the great and glorious work in which we are all 
 
 ',, and having bid adieu to the shores 
 
 of India to proceed to the discharge of other 
 
 we embrace the earliest opportunity 
 
 allowed us to say Farewell. 
 
 A wider scope, beloved brethren, for Mission- 
 ary exertion and for -M issionary talents than lies 
 before you cannot be desired. Not fewer pro- 
 bably than one-tenth of the human race, one 
 hundred millions of immortal beings and British 
 subjects, lie spread around you: the valley is 
 full of dry bones very dry ; the field is white to 
 the harvest, inviting the reapers to put in the 
 sickle. All these immortal beings standing on 
 the verge of an eternal destiny, all hastening to 
 that tribunal where it must be determined by 
 the Judge of all the earth; while alas ! with few 
 very few exceptions, . they are without God 
 and without hope in the world. Can you in- 
 dulge in inglorious supineness, in such circum- 
 stances 1 Can you repose in sloth, when you 
 ought by day and by night to stretch forth the 
 
 hand of Christian philanthropy, and do all you 
 can to snatch these brands from the eternal 
 burnings "? We do not question your willingness 
 to use your best exertions in such a cause ; and 
 you will allow us affectionately to stir up your 
 minds by way of remembrance, to those obliga- 
 tions which you are under to work while it is 
 called day, seeing the night cometh when no 
 man can work. 
 
 Never had Missionaries stronger motives pre- 
 sented to awaken their zeal, and to rouse them 
 to use their most vigorous exertions. And now 
 is the accepted time, this is the day of salvation. 
 So far as the government is concerned, not one 
 obstacle lies in your way, and the prudent Mis- 
 sionary may have access to every city, town, 
 village, and hovel, throughout these extensive 
 countries. You enjoy all the protection and 
 unembarrassed freedom you can wish ; and 
 though the civil power wisely maintains its 
 neutrality, it protects you in using your best 
 exertions, and none dare make you afraid ; while 
 you have every reason to hope that the Supreme 
 Authority wishes well to your labours and pros- 
 perity to your cause. 
 
 ^'e are well aware of the difficulties and dis- 
 conraf/cmc-nts which oppose you : human nature 
 in its worst condition ; an idolatrous system, the 
 whole of whose principles and ceremonies are 
 diametrically opposed to those of the religion 
 which you advocate ; customs and associations 
 which plead an almost unlimited antiquity ; 
 pride, avarice, and sensuality, which are inhe- 
 rent in fallen nature; ignorance, sloth and 
 deceit, which to human agency are invincible ; 
 and all these powerful opponents in alliance 
 with the powers of darkness, whose intervention 
 is never wanting when the truth as it is in Christ 
 is to be withstood, and its doctrines and its pre- 
 cepts neutralized. How formidable do these 
 obstacles appear when duly considered! Yet 
 there is no reason for either discouragement or 
 despair. The cause in which you have em- 
 barked is the cause of God. Greater is He who 
 is for you, than all they who are against you. 
 
 But, brethren, as it is by the intervention of 
 the appointed system of means that God will 
 destroy idolatry, change the hearts of the hea- 
 then, and bring them into the fold of Christ, 
 with what holy diligence ought you, by prayer 
 and study, to seek to be duly qualified for 
 your great work, as workmen who need not 
 DC ashamed ! The knowledge of the language of 
 the people whose conversion you seek is essen- 
 tial to your success ; for the better you are ac- 
 quainted with it, and the more correctly and 
 fluently you speak it, the more respect and at- 
 tention will be given to your message. To that 
 one language bend your most earnest attention 
 until you have made it your own ; nor suffer 
 your minds to be drawn away by others, or by 
 the pride of being thought learned, or the 
 vanity of knowing many languages. The pos- 
 session of any one of the languages of India, 
 in such a degree of perfection as is desirable, 
 will usually cost exertion enough ; rind Avhen 
 obtained, will give you access to millions of 
 souls scope enough for your best exertions. 
 
262 
 
 LETTER FROM THE DEPUTATION 
 
 Let not your pundits deceive you, for they are 
 in league with the common enemy, by teaching 
 you a language which those do not understand 
 to whom you have access. Neither soar so high 
 as to be incomprehensible, nor descend so low 
 as to be contemptible and vulgar. There is a 
 style in all languages that is at once plain, dig- 
 nified, and appropriate, which both rich and 
 poor can comprehend, and which neither can 
 condemn. This is the style which we recom- 
 mend that you should study, and in which you 
 should preach the gospel. 
 
 These remarks we chiefly intend for our 
 younger brethren, who have recently arrived in 
 India. Most of you who have been for some 
 time on Missionary ground, we are happy in 
 feeling assured, are well acquainted with the 
 language of the people among whom you labour, 
 and speak it both with fluency and correct no-. 
 Until then no Missionary is an efficient labourer. 
 To arrive at so high and important an attain- 
 ment should be the first concern of a Missionary 
 on reaching his sphere of action ; and no other 
 object, however important, should be allowed to 
 divert his attention from this. Any Missionary 
 who either cannot or will not acquire the lan- 
 guage of the people to whom he goes to preach 
 the gospel is but a cumbcrcr of tin 1 ground, and 
 should turn his attention to some other object, 
 and not consume those funds which are raised 
 for the support of useful Missionaries, and not 
 the indolent, or those who are seeking their own 
 ease and aggrandizement. 
 
 Let plain and i>i-r:i/iicuous language be the 
 medium through which you place before the un- 
 derstandings of the people, and the consciences 
 of your hearers, the glorious doctrines and pre- 
 cepts and motives of the unsophisticated gospel 
 of Jesus. Be it yours to follow the illustrious 
 example of the greatest of mere human Mis- 
 sionaries, and to know nothing but Christ and 
 him crucified, and toglorv only in the < 
 I some this may be a stumbling-block, and to 
 others foolishness; but to many we trust it will 
 be the power of God, and the wisdom of God. 
 (iuard,dcar friends, against dwelling on subjects 
 of mere speculation, or on such as would a Moid 
 mere amusement. Let the great things of God 
 fill every address. Nothing will tend so much 
 at once to excite attention, to do good to your 
 hearers, and to destroy idolatry. Let the truth 
 alone be exalted, and error will fall. Life and 
 immortality are brought to light by the gospel ; 
 and the same should be attempted in every 
 sermon that you preach; for, alas! darkness 
 covers the earth, and gross darkness the people. 
 The fall of man, and the importance of a change 
 of heart repentance towards God, and faith in 
 our Lord Jesus Christ, must be the great sub- 
 jects of every sermon to the heathen. You cannot 
 depart from first principles, without being guilty 
 of a dereliction of duty. And allow us again 
 to recommend that your sermons to the heathen 
 he pithy, lively, warm, and affectionate ; delivered 
 with a manifest concern to do them good. To be 
 so, they must be short. Much strength is wasted 
 in these countries by long sermons, where so 
 little ought to be unnecessarily expended. 
 
 A small chapel is desirable at a Missionary 
 station where a few converts have been made, 
 who are willing to sanctify the Sabbath and to 
 keep it holy, as a place of public meeting for 
 divine worship. But before such expense is in- 
 curred, converts must be made. 
 
 [Here follow various remarks on the cir- 
 cumstances under which baptism ought to be 
 administered, and other Christian privileges 
 granted to applicants and candidates.] 
 
 Permit us, dear brethren, to recommend more 
 street and bazaar-preaching; consider what this 
 despised practice did in the days of 'Whitfield and 
 Wesley, and in the days of Christ and his apos- 
 tles. This is not sufficiently practised in India 
 by the Misicnaries, excepting in a tew places. 
 No Missionary, we conceive, slmu! 
 with himself unless he has preached, in this way, 
 a short sermon every evening, when the heat of 
 the day is over; and so far from this being in- 
 jurious to his health, we are satisfied that the 
 exertion would be conducive to it, and pro\e a 
 counteraction to the deterioration of home- 
 study through the day. Many induce disease 
 in these climates by indolence and the want of 
 
 more bodily r\erei-e. \\ . have e\e;-\ where 
 found that the most healthy are those who make 
 the most exertion. By street and ba/.aai -preach- 
 ing, we are aware that you will perhaps 
 yourselves to some contempt ; but by not doing 
 it you are in danger of a neglect of duty and 
 the stings of conscience. A love of ease Mould 
 urge more tranquillity and less publicity. To he 
 known, you must be public; and both art 
 tial to your usefulness, that both your doctrine* 
 and your example may be understood, the one 
 embraced and the other followed. To seek pub- 
 licity for its own sake would be vanity; but to 
 seek it for the sake of doing irood is the duty 
 of every Missionary of Jesus Chi 
 
 The school system in India is diffusing much 
 light and scriptural knowledge among tl:> 
 generation, lessening their prejudices against the 
 doctrines of the gospel, and preparing the way 
 for some great change to which these nations we 
 colicene arc fast advancing. But allow US to 
 caution you against multiplying schools beyond 
 the power of giving a very frequent superintend- 
 ence, which should be at least once or twice a 
 ucek, and that made by yourselves or those 
 assistants in whom you can fully confide. Much 
 has been done ; but much improvement we 
 think needs to be attempted in the state of the 
 schools. The masters, if hirelings, will 1 
 fied with having a few children who can read 
 tolerably well, and repeat a catechism. But 
 why should there not be twenty where there 
 are but four or five 1 ! A more close, vigilant, 
 and frequent inspection would, we think, cure 
 the evil. But. the principal advantage to be 
 derived from the school-system is, we think, the 
 opportunity which the schools give to the Mis- 
 sionary, when he visits them, of preaching the 
 gospel to those who stop at the outside, and to 
 the parents who come to hear their children 
 catechised, or others. "We would therefore re- 
 commend that one stated day and hoir 
 week should be appointed and known, that the 
 
TO THE MISSIONARIES IN INDIA. 
 
 263 
 
 parents may come to hear their children, as well 
 as passers-by. School-rooms should always be 
 selected in public streets and places of great 
 resort, that the people' may be induced to stop 
 and hear. When a number are collected to hear 
 the children catechised and examined, a fine 
 opportunity is afforded, either directly or through 
 the children, of placing the great truths of the 
 gospel before their minds. It is preaching the 
 gospel, and not the school, or any other system, 
 that is ordained of God to renovate the world. 
 Tin- Missionary who does not think so will be 
 useless, and has much both to learn and to un- 
 learn before he will be a useful labourer. 
 
 Allow us to recommend, brethren, that you 
 make yourselves more familiar with the people 
 around you. Visit the bazaars, converse with 
 the natives on the great things of God, invite 
 them to your houses, and let them feel that you 
 are concerned indeed for their welfare. This 
 cannot but ensure their respect and esteem, 
 however much they may think you mistaken on 
 the subject of religion. Extensive observation 
 and experience have convinced us of the great 
 iin portance of the practice which we- affectionately 
 recommend. Difference of country and of 
 people makes no difference here. Familiar con- 
 \ersation on difficult subjects, when an inter- 
 change of sentiment is permitted, is the most 
 certftin method of exciting interest, and bringing 
 the subjects on which we speak within the com- 
 prehension of those with whom we converse. 
 This will assist you too in acquiring the lan- 
 guage in which you preach, in knowing the 
 people's mode of thinking and rensoninir, and 
 in adapting } our discourses to their capacities. 
 The Redeemer's conversation with the woman 
 of Samaria at the well, and his general mode of 
 instruction, is an example which cannot but 
 commend itself to your admiration, and is 
 worthy of being followed. 
 
 We recollect witli great satisfaction that, con- 
 nected with many of your stations, there are 
 several country-born young men and natives who 
 have come forward to the work of the Lord, and 
 If you in your noble designs of saving 
 souls. While we would recommend again that 
 all suitable encouragement should continue to 
 be :riven to them, and that they be kept in a 
 state of constant and active employment in the 
 work of the Mission, permit us to guard you 
 against the temptation of thinking that they arc 
 to do all the work; and that, because you have 
 such assistants, therefore you may do the less. 
 This would be a lamentable misappropriation of 
 their talents. However numerous your 
 ants may be, and however extensive their exer- 
 tions, your own active zeal must not in the least 
 be diminished. Yours is a work that cannot be 
 done by pn>x\ . 
 
 The establishment of female schools is another 
 object, which we must press on your attention, 
 and on that of your much respected wives. "While 
 it. is a matter of exultation that so many Inns 
 throughout India are under a course of Chris- 
 tian instruction, it is deeply to be deplored that, 
 excepting in Calcutta, but little has cither been 
 done or attempted in any other part for the edu- 
 
 cation of the other sex; we are aware of the 
 difficulties which oppose ; but we beseech you, 
 and our dear friends and sisters, seriously to lay 
 the subject to heart, and make your best exertions. 
 A few cautionary hints may not be unseason- 
 able in this letter of free and affectionate advice. 
 We feel the awful responsibility of your office and 
 circumstances ; and we are more solicitous that 
 you so discharge the important duties devolving 
 upon you, and so conduct yourselves under all 
 relations of life, as to put to silence the igno- 
 rance of foolish men, accomplish the objects of 
 your mission, and continue to enjoy the confi- 
 dence and esteem of all. Permit us then to 
 guard you against all political interference with 
 the powers that be. The government of these 
 countries excites our admiration for its liberality, 
 equity, and benevolence ; and you share the 
 protection of the laws, while you enjoy the most 
 perfect and unrestrained freedom in discharging 
 your Missionary duties, and in spreading the 
 savour of the Redeemer's name. Yours is a 
 work which admits of no compromise which 
 in a peculiar manner demands the whole of your 
 talents, and your undivided time and attention. 
 Too much English preaching, keeping of schools, 
 composing books on subjects merely literary, 
 entering much into the society of your country- 
 men, attempting a variety of languages when 
 one only should at first engross your entire atten- 
 tion, a restless hankering after home, a dislike 
 to your station or the people among whom you 
 labour, with a variety of other things, may be- 
 come great snares to a Missionary, in taking off 
 his heart from his work entirely or in part. We 
 have seen with grief the effects of such allure- 
 ments ; and when these objects, or any other 
 not directly missionary, engross the attention, 
 we cease to wonder at the want of success among 
 the heathen. 
 
 Ha\ing travelled through all the countries 
 over which your stations are scattered, and taken 
 Ave think an impartial mew of the state of your 
 several Missions, we greatly rejoice to recollect 
 that we have seen you, with very few exceptions, 
 faithfully devoting your talents to your great 
 object, and have formed the most gratifying 
 opinion of both your talents and your piety. 
 Nor do we neglect duly to appreciate what has 
 been actually accomplished, in bewailing what 
 lias not been achieved. Y r ou are responsible, 
 not for success, but for the due and diligent ap- 
 plication of those means which are within your 
 power. To some stations which we have visited, 
 we can advert v\ith peculiar delight, and ex- 
 claim, What has God wrought! We have be- 
 held Hindoo pagodas prostrated before the gos- 
 pel, and Christian chapels growing up, and 
 crowded by hundreds of attentive hearers, not a 
 few of whom evince, by their lives and conver- 
 sation, that they have turned indeed from dumb 
 idols to serve the living God. Glorious sights! 
 but, alas ! how few, how rare ! Beloved 
 brethren, for the want of more success there 
 should be great searchings of heart ; allow us to 
 entreat you to examine, and see whether there 
 is not a cause. Why this barrenness of reli- 
 gion after so much expenditure of Missionary 
 
264 LETTER FROM THE DEPUTATION TO THE MISSIONARIES IN INDIA. 
 
 talent, and time, and money 1 How compara- 
 tively few the converts ! How little is God 
 known ! How slight, comparatively, is the im- 
 pression made on this hundred of millions of 
 human beings ! Oh, let us humble ourselves 
 before God, in the very dust, that we have been 
 no more concerned for their salvation that we 
 have laboured so little for their good that we 
 have no more wrestled with God in prayer, that 
 He would make bare his holy arm, ;uid pour 
 out his Holy Spirit upon them. When the 
 friends of Missions at home, and the Mission- 
 aries abroad, are found thus engaged, then we 
 may expect this wilderness to blossom as the 
 rose, and this desert to become as the garden of 
 the Lord. 
 
 Nor will we despair of seeing better days : we 
 have a solid foundation on which to rest our 
 hope and entire confidence that, at some future 
 period, if not now, these heathen iegio>. 
 bow to the authority of Christ, and unite to 
 crown him Lord of all. It is not necessary that 
 we should dwell on the purposes and the pro- 
 'Cod which assure n< <>}' the approach 
 of so glorious a day ; you know them, and do 
 well often to meditate upon them, ii 
 variety, their comprehend eiie-s, their fidelity, 
 and the sullicieney of Him who spoke them to 
 give them their entire accomplishment. But, 
 for \onr encouragement, consider why Divine 
 Providence has, in so surprising a manner, and 
 almost in spite of the power that now rules 
 these nations, broken the yoke of Mahoinme- 
 dan and 1 1 indoo tyranm , and pul them under a 
 
 Christian government and that, the m<> 
 to do them good. This is the hand of (Jod; 
 and we cannot doubt that He has prospective 
 designs in this stupendous change. He has 
 given them to Kngland, tint England in 
 them the gospel. Besides, but a '.' 
 the greatest oppositiop 
 f the ^ 
 
 introduction of the i;ospcl into these coi. 
 but now every difficulty is removed ; and where 
 Kngland sends but one. Missionary, she might 
 send a thousand, and not the smallest obstacle 
 would be thrown in the path of their Missionary 
 career by the government. The growing in- 
 difference of the Hindoos to their own tenet*. 
 and ceremonies is another pleasing omen. Of 
 the fact we e-in have no doubt. Indeed, to us, 
 who rnne travelled so much among them, their 
 mythological sj stein appears like multitudes 
 of their temples in a state of wretched dilapi- 
 dation: both are tottering to their fall. A few 
 years, and the world will witness some mighty 
 change. Knowledge is making rapid progress 
 among the people ; the Brahmins are falling 
 into disrepute. Aware that covetousness is the 
 mainspring of their actions, their vassals are 
 become impatient of the yoke : they will speedily 
 cast it off, think for themselves, and embrace 
 the gospel. What means that eagerness every- 
 where so ardent to obtain the Christian tracts, 
 portions of the Scripture, and the various pub- 
 lications which you are diffusing among them, 
 and what the tendency of their inHur 
 Besides, the sacred volume is now made to 
 speak to all these nations, in their own tongue, 
 
 of the wonderful works of God. Is not 
 fact of auspicious aspect *? A fev 
 scarcely a pious individual was to be found in 
 these countries, in whose life religion could be 
 seen, or who was disposed to plead the cause of 
 the perishing heathen at a throne of grace ; but 
 now, God has a numerous seed to serve him, 
 scattered over the vast regions of India, who re- 
 joice to aid your designs and to encourage your 
 hearts ; to assist you with their prayers, their ex- 
 ample, and their pecuniary contributions. How 
 many benevolent institutions are in vigorous 
 operation, not only in the great cities of Cal- 
 cutta and Madras, but also in various parts of 
 the interior, labouring in different ways to cir- 
 culate the Scriptures of truth and religious tracts 
 and books : all aiding in your 
 career. 
 
 Before we close this letter, we must 
 of you to take all due care of your health. On 
 the importance of this blessing, both ; 
 
 and to yoi - in the 
 
 ork in which you are 
 
 :iing ; but to pay all suitable attention to 
 MII is an imperative duty. Many 
 
 nary, we doubt not, has fallen I 
 lice in these climes to his own iinprud< 
 not taking sufficient bodily . nd by 
 
 - mind too intensely in hi- 
 i he Kurdish constitution will not 
 hear the ardour of mental exertion in tin 
 
 is at home, excepting for 
 
 portion of the day ; and it req Mowed 
 
 by far more exercise of the animal system than 
 
 rally taken, to i :ii the mind 
 
 and body in good health. For the v\ant of 
 such exercise, the muscles lose tli'-ir tone, the 
 
 kte of torpor, 
 
 and the diseases incident to the- 
 indue- . 
 
 :;t any part of the day, wit!: 
 provided the direct rays of the Min 
 but the mornings and 
 the most suitable. At these tin. 
 
 to the adjacent villa, 
 the schools which he lias under 
 
 - the people both in the school-rooms 
 and in the streets, distrihutin _ :ul con- 
 
 l with them: such engagements, daily 
 pursue^ 1 !.-d, would tend 
 
 both to the usefulness of \\ y, and 
 
 : \ation of his health. This 
 
 from the time the Mi- 
 India, so far as it is possible; and so I 
 
 obtained a few words of the Ian- 
 should make use of them in the schools, and in 
 attempting to converse with the people ; by 
 which -o, he would acquire the lan- 
 
 u-ua^e much sooner, and with more correctness 
 of pronunciation, than otherwise. H> 
 when the constitution fails, and sinks under the 
 climate, and becomes the subject of that debility 
 which torrid regions so often induce, and when 
 a change of air becomes ne think 
 
 that no Missionary should take a voyage to 
 England, merely for the sake of recovering the 
 vigour and tone of his system, till ' 
 journey to the Xify/icrri/ Hills, in the Madras 
 
ARRIVAL AT THE MAURITIUS PROPOSED VISIT TO MADAGASCAR. 265 
 
 Presidency, which may be done at a much less 
 loss of time and expense to the Society than 
 would be incurred by a voyage to England. 
 
 We leave you, dear brethren, with regret ; 
 but it is with the greatest confidence that you 
 will continue to adorn the doctrines of God our 
 Saviour ; spend and be spent in his service ; 
 and may you have the gracious protection of a 
 faithful God and the encouraging smiles of his 
 people! We leave you in the enjoyment of 
 affectionate union with each other, and of a firm 
 attachment to that Society in whose service it 
 is our mutual happiness to spend and be spent, 
 and in circumstances of temporal satisfaction 
 and comfort. We leave you with a deep sense 
 of ardent gratitude for all the kind solicitude of 
 yourselves and of our dear sisters your beloved 
 partners, to promote both our comfort and our 
 objects in visiting you ; and assure you that we 
 shall ever remember you with affectionate 
 anxiety for your personal health and domestic 
 welfare and success in your arduous work. 
 While we shall bear you on our hearts con- 
 stantly before God, we earnestly solicit an in- 
 terest in your prayers. Let us still have your 
 confidence and esteem; cultivate towards the 
 Society, with which you are associated in this 
 great work, the closest union and the most 
 ailectiouate attachment. Be ye faithful unto 
 death, and your Divine Master will give you a 
 crown of life. 
 
 Farewell, beloved brethren andfriends. With 
 the best wishes we commend yon, with all 
 whom you most tenderly love, to God and to the 
 word of his grace ; and remain, in the bonds of 
 Christian love and sincere friendship, 
 
 Your affectionate Friends and Brethren, 
 
 (Signed) DANIEL TYERMAN, 
 
 GEORGE BEN NET. 
 
 CHAPTER XLIX. 
 
 Embarkation for the Mauritius, or Isle of France- 
 Arrival at Port Louis Deliberation! about visiting 
 IfaUgaMCT-rTmra, College, (Jhurclies, Sic., of 1'ort 
 LouU - -St it; of Society Slavery M. IVrille Ancc- 
 dotr> < if Slaves Dreadful Hurricane Information rn- 
 h]i.-ctini: .MMil.-iiM-'-.-ir Examples of barbarous Usages 
 and despotic Cruelties. 
 
 OCT. 13. Having finished our tour in South- 
 ern India, and rested a few days at Madras, 
 to wind up the whole of our official business in 
 this part of the world, we embarked to-day on 
 board the Frances Charlotte, Captain Talbot, 
 for the Isle of France. 
 
 Nov. 23. At four o'clock in the morning we 
 came in sight of land, about fifteen miles dis- 
 tant. By daybreak we discovered the Round, 
 Serpent, Flat, and Coin Islands, to the north of 
 tin' Mauritius. The mountains of the latter 
 rose in the misty majesty of morning, through 
 which the sunbeams gradually breaking pre- 
 sented a scene of real and aerial perspective 
 seldom so perfectly and happily combined. 
 The low lands towards the shore, covered with 
 sugar-cane plantations, interspersed with cot- 
 tages, villas, and hamlets, among trees and 
 bushes, were minutely distinct in the fore- 
 ground, while the peaks of the volcanic emi- 
 nences behind changed form, and colour, and 
 
 size, and position, every quarter of an hour, 
 emerging and sinking alternately in the sea of 
 vapours that now encircled, now overflowed, 
 and finally deserted them, melting away into 
 the limpid element, through which heaven, 
 earth, and ocean were at once and harmoni- 
 ously revealed in the glory and loveliness of 
 risen day, within the verge of the tropics. 
 
 In the evening the ship came to anr-hor off 
 the harbour of Port Louis ; but as it was too 
 late for the inspector to visit us and examine 
 our bills of health, we remained on board till 
 morning. The day had been remarkably serene, 
 the breeze favourable, and our spirits were ex- 
 hilarated with the prospect of liberty, after six 
 weeks' confinement, as we sailed down the 
 side of the island, which looked so peaceful and 
 flourishing with cultivation, that the thought 
 could hardly settle, for more than a moment or 
 two, in our mind, that this fine island is not 
 (infrequently devastated with the most tremen- 
 dous hurricanes, and is seated on a bed of fire, 
 which may unexpectedly overwhelm it with 
 disrupted torrents of lava, or engulph it by the 
 force of earthquakes in the surrounding ocean. 
 The forms of many of the mountains, which 
 may hereafter again be the ministers of destined 
 destruction, as they have been of old, are 
 singular and grotesque, and they hear names as 
 fanciful as their appearance. One pair of con- 
 spicuous eminences is degraded by the appella- 
 tion of the Ass's Ears. The highest peak is 
 called Peter Botte ; it rises to the height of 
 3500 feet, diminishing upwards into a perfect 
 spire, on the point of which is suspended a glo- 
 bular mass of stone, denominated the cap of 
 liberty, which "Peter Botte" wears unmolested, 
 whatever sovereign reigns below, whether the 
 Grand Monarque, the Republican Directory, the 
 Emperor Napoleon, or the King of England ; 
 and, we may add, he wears it unmolested, 
 whate\er oppression is exercised beneath his 
 feet over the black population of this hotbed of 
 slavery. 
 
 Nov. 24. After due investigation the ship 
 was allowed to enter the harbour, when we 
 landed, and soon afterwards met Mr. Le Brun, 
 the Missionary of our Society. We were sur- 
 prised and distressed to learn that the state of 
 Madagascar, in respect to climate, for several 
 months to come, may be presumed to be such 
 that hardly any European constitution could 
 sunive the perils of travelling through the 
 forests, and over the lakes, mountains, and mo- 
 rasses, into the interior, where the metropolis is 
 situated, and where our Missionaries reside. 
 We have no alternative, therefore, except to re- 
 main here till the malignant season is past, or 
 to avail ourselves of the first opportunity to 
 proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, on our way 
 homeward, and abandon the purpose of visiting 
 Madagascar altogether. 
 
 1828. Jan. 28. Till this day we have been 
 detained in the Mauritius, waiting first for a 
 safe season, and latterly for a vessel to sail to 
 Madagascar. 
 
 Port Louis, the principal town of this colony, 
 stands at the head of a fine harbour, between 
 
266 
 
 TOWN OF PORT LOUIS SUGAR-PLANTATIONS. 
 
 two points of level land, each of which is com- 
 manded hy a fort. From fifty to sixty vessels 
 are generally seen at anchor here, moored by 
 chain-cables. At the head of the port a stone 
 pyramid, from which a copious stream of pure 
 fresh water is unremittingly poured, has been 
 erected, in a situation so convenient that ships' 
 boats may fill their casks from it without land- 
 ing them. A spacious quay, custom-house, 
 theatre, public library, and a town-residence 
 for the governor, give this place a sufficient air 
 of metropolitan dignity for a petty island. The 
 main street, running nearly east and west, con- 
 tains many good buildings, well-furnished 
 shops, and merchants' warehouses. Here a 
 great part of the general business is transacted. 
 East of the quay is a wooden-roofed and many- 
 pillared bazaar, extending over a considerable 
 open space, where all kinds of wares are 
 vended, during all hours of daylight, on all 
 clays in the year, of which those called Sundays 
 are the busiest ; especially in the mornings, 
 when the slaves have liberty to come to market. 
 There is here an old Roman Catholic church, 
 
 j with two low towers ; plain and unadorned 
 both without and within : also an English 
 Protestant church a low, clumsy structure, 
 placed on a small mount, formerly a military 
 magazine, and bomb-proof. A tower has lately 
 been added at an expense of 20,000 dollars, 
 we are told. Neither the one nor the other of 
 these sanctuaries is much frequented ; tin- 
 theatre bears away the palm from both ; the 
 French population, especially, delighting in 
 dramatic exhibitions. A massy wooden pile, 
 a hundred and twenty feet long, forty broad, 
 and three stories high, is called the college. 
 This immense piece of timber frame-work was 
 actually removed three feet from its basement, 
 by the unimaginable force of the hurricane in 
 17S-1. Here the sons of the principal French 
 families have the means afforded them of clas- 
 
 ' sical and mathematical education. From the 
 chief thoroughfare many others diverge in a 
 southern direction ; some of great length, all of 
 ample width, and for the most part macadam- 
 ized. Several water-courses are turned through 
 the principal of these, from the neighbouring 
 mountains. On one side of the town is the 
 Malabar camp, inhabited by Hindoos and other 
 oriental foreigners ; the French and English in 
 gem-nil occupying the central streets. Here 
 also are barracks for a thousand infantry. 
 
 Little can be said in favour of the morals of 
 the mongrel population of St. Louis, consisting 
 of French, English, Portuguese, Dutch, Italians, 
 Danes, Norwegians, Hindoos, Malays, HeiiLru- 
 lesc, Africans, and half-castes of all these, in 
 every possible form of admixture. Our own 
 countrymen bear the best character : but, in 
 truth, whatever be the professed religion of in- 
 dividuals, the whole town wears the aspect of 
 heathenism on the Lord's day. No shops are 
 closed, except for the convenience of the own- 
 ers; pleasure and business occupy the free, 
 and drudgery and degradation mark the sla\es, 
 as on other days. We understand, h- 
 that even in these respects, society, in outward 
 
 decorum, has been much ameliorated since 
 1811, when the island fell into the hands of the 
 English. A dreadful conflagration, in 1800, 
 which destroyed thirteen hundred houses, 
 made way for the erection of much better 
 buildings than the former wretched hovels ; 
 though wood is still the main material. All 
 the dwellings are provided with double doors 
 and double window-frames, for security both 
 against robbers and hurricanes. Airainst the 
 latter scarcely any strength of walls or b 
 prevail. 
 
 The population is estimated at twenty thou- 
 sand ; of whom more than one- half are 
 two-thirds of the remainder blacks and creoli - s , 
 the rest of European origin. There is a law 
 here that no Englishman shall marry a woman 
 of colour, not even a mulatta. The consequence 
 is obvious. But profligacy needs no law to 
 foster it in this colony, especially in Poit 
 Louis, where there exists a system of 
 nearly as complete, altogether as degrading, 
 and much more demoralizing, than t!. 
 India. Here are the English caste, the French 
 caste, the Creole casto, the free-colourcii 
 and the slave caste. Scarcely any friendly in- 
 tercourse (except in the two former instances ) 
 exists between these; and few of them will 
 meet even in the same place of worship a cir- 
 cumstance which is an exceeding great hinder- 
 ance to the usefulness of our Mi-vionar\ ^.\Ir. 
 Le Brun) here. 
 
 The Isle of Mauritius (frequently railed tin- 
 Isle of France) is of an irregular oval form, and 
 about a hundred and fifty miles in circuit. It 
 is nearly surrounded by coral-reefs, red, white, 
 and black, at various distances, with shallow 
 lagoons between them and the shore, whereby 
 the access is rendered difficult. The land is 
 mountainous, and manifestly volcanic. The 
 rock* are generally of a dark blue compact 
 basalt, occasionally honeycombed, and re- 
 markably resembling those of Tahiti. In the 
 interior are large forests of timber 
 siderable tracts also arc cultivated there, but 
 the finest and most productive -il lies nearest 
 to the coast. How much this has been im- 
 proved by slave-labour may be understood 
 when wo state that, in 1812, the sugar exported 
 amounted to 989,264 French poui. 
 it reached K),fJHi,254 ; in fifteen y 
 creating forty-fold ! The planters. e\o 
 tain Dick and Mr. Tclfair, are French, and the 
 have been brought from Madagascar and 
 Mozambique. The entire population is (in 
 round numbers) eight thousand whites, iiueen 
 thousand free people of colour, and -i\ty-i:ine 
 thousand slaves. .V more unpromising Held for 
 Missionary labour can hardly be imagined than 
 the Mauritius, though one more needing spirit- 
 ual cultivation cannot be found under the sun. 
 Christianity under all its larger forms, Mahom- 
 mcdanism in its rankest inveteracy, and heath- 
 enism in many of its hydra shapes, divide this 
 piebald community of people, kindn ;'. 
 tongues, as diverse in manners, intelligence, 
 and sentiment, as their colours, leatu: 
 languages are dissimilar. But "is anything 
 
AFRICAN SLAVERY M. PERILLE, A FRENCH PLANTER. 
 
 267 
 
 too hard for the Lordl" Our Missionary, Mr. 
 Le Brim, who has been here fourteen years, 
 has laboured not altogether in vain, either as 
 a preacher of the gospel or an instructor of 
 children ; but present circumstances are dis- 
 couraging. 
 
 Slavery exists in this island to such an extent 
 that its miserable victims are met in droves, or 
 singly, everywhere, performing all kinds of base, 
 penal, and brute labour. In Port Louis the 
 domestic servants are almost entirely bondmen 
 and bondwomen. Government possesses much 
 of this questionable kind of property, and not 
 only employs slaves upon its own necessary 
 works, but lets out individuals for hire to private 
 persons having temporary occasion for them ; a 
 practice common also with other holders of 
 human live-stock. In the streets they are seen 
 driving carts and drays, like beasts of burthen. 
 But. it is on the sugar-plantations that these 
 Ill-lots swarm and blacken the face of the coun- 
 try. Such estates arc rather numerous than 
 larire, and are tilled by bodies of field-drudges, 
 from one to three, four, and even five hundred. 
 The negro family here, as in the West Indies, is 
 the nursery for this monstrous injustice. From 
 the east coast of Africa the supplies were prin- 
 cipally obtained Avhile the trade was permitted ; 
 and now, though prohibited, there is reason to 
 believe that it is still managed in the usual eva- 
 sive manner : no preventive service being suffi- 
 cient to suppress the contraband of blood, in a 
 slave-colony so distant from the mother country, 
 any more than of foreign spirits nearer home. 
 The personal appearance of the slaves varies 
 much, according to the nature of their employ- 
 ment and the severity or leniency with which 
 they ar<; treated. Some are well-looking, but in 
 general they are ill-favoured. A few seem to 
 feel the ignominy of their condition, and deeply 
 resent it, though impotent to help themselves. 
 One poor wretch lately died at this place, heart- 
 broken, continually exclaiming, till voice and 
 hreath failed, " "Why am I a slave 1 ?" On ex- 
 periencing hard usage, the slaves sometimes 
 commit acts of the most savage desperation ; 
 and, " if oppression maketh a wise man mad," 
 can this be wondered at 1 About four years ago 
 a woman had been cruelly flogged by her owner ; 
 her husband, unable to brook the indignity, cut 
 her throat and the throats of their young chil- 
 dren ; then, making a common funeral-pile of 
 their bodies, he set it on fire, and leaping into 
 the flames perished with them. 
 
 On the estates of Mr. Telfair (whom we fre- 
 quently visited, and received much hospitality 
 from him) the negroes appeared in good per- 
 sonal condition, and as contented with their lot 
 as the circumstances of it would permit them to 
 he. The children are sent to schools provided 
 for them. Every family has its little thatched 
 cottage ; the women are allowed leisure to 
 manage their domestic affairs ; and when they 
 h;m- borne six children are entirely exempted 
 from field-labour. The aged, of both sexes, are 
 employed in light jobs, such as weeding, cleans- 
 ing the walks, and gardening. 
 
 At Reduit, the governor's country residence, 
 
 much benevolent care is bestowed upon the off- 
 spring of the slaves belonging to the establish- 
 ment. They are taught to read, write, and 
 cipher, and religious instruction is administered 
 to them, xmder the immediate superintendence 
 of Lady Frances Cole. The adults also seemed 
 to us in good condition, and cheerful at their 
 toil. M. Perille, a French planter, is also dis- 
 tinguished for his humanity towards his slaves ; 
 and it was mentioned, as a special proof of this, 
 that he does not require them to work on Sun- 
 days. A short time ago, however, when the 
 holes had been made for the young plants in a 
 large plot of ground, and there had been a long 
 drought, a shower happening to fall on the 
 Sabbath, M. Perille was unable to resist the 
 temptation to avail himself of the opportunity of 
 setting the canes, and directed his slaves to 
 perform the work, as one of necessity, promising 
 them a special remuneration at night. It was 
 done ; but, in the evening, when he called them 
 to receive their wages, to a man they refused to 
 accept of anything, saying, " We are your ser- 
 vants, and bound to do what you bid us at any 
 time ; besides, you use us so well that we cannot 
 take any pay for this day's work." Being a 
 Roman Catholic, he has made his slaves (as far, 
 probably, as he knew how) of the same faith 
 with himself. We saw three hundred of them 
 assembled one evening, for divine worship, in 
 the open air, before his house, and under the 
 shade of mango-trees. Two women repeated 
 the Lord's Prayer and the Apostles' Creed, in 
 Latin, and were followed by their fellow-negroes, 
 who afterwards sang several hymns in the same 
 language, sweetly and in good tune. The scene 
 was affecting, and the group very picturesque ; 
 a few lamps, which had been hung in the trees, 
 brightening over their heads as the shadows of 
 night rapidly followed the flush of a tropical 
 sunset. When they had concluded these devo- 
 tions (!) they all crossed themselves ; and aftei'- 
 wards came, one by one, to receive their ordinary 
 allowance of provisions, when two bags of rice 
 were given out to them, at the rate of a pound 
 and a half for each adult, man or woman, and 
 half as much for each boy or girl. They then 
 retired quietly to their huts. M. Perille is an 
 amiable and well-meaning man. He lives with 
 his mother, who is advanced some years beyond 
 threescore and ten. Neither of them had ever 
 seen a Bible or New Testament, nor had they 
 any desire after such a sight, being utterly un- 
 conscious of the value of God's holy Avord ; 
 though, according to what they had been 
 taught, they seemed zealous for the faith of 
 their fathers. Surely the teachers, who thus 
 withhold from their Christian congregations 
 Christ's own words, have much to answer for 
 if the people come short of salvation from ig- 
 norance. 
 
 The slaves sometimes maroon, as it is called, 
 that is, they run away from their bondage. Of 
 these fugitives, it is said, there are considerable 
 numbers among the mountains and forests, 
 who live principally by sallying out for plunder, 
 and hunting the wild deer, which abound in 
 some remote situations. When a slave escapes 
 
2C8 
 
 ANECDOTES OF SLAVES DREADFUL HURRICANE. 
 
 from his master, the latter is required to report 
 him to the police, upon which a party of soldiers 
 are sent out in pursuit of him. If he is traced, 
 and nearly overtaken, they are ordered to call 
 upon him to stop, three times ; and if, at the 
 third challenge, he still attempts to nee, it is 
 lawful to fire and shoot him dead. 
 
 An amusing specimen of the ignorance and 
 knavery of these degraded creatures has been 
 communicated to us. A negro was sent by his 
 owner to fetch home a quantity of wine from 
 the merchant's. Of course a note was delivered 
 to him, stating the number of bottles committed 
 to his charge. On the road, however, he chose 
 to empty one of these for his own gratification ; 
 but before he did this he placed the note under 
 a stone, and kept it fast down while he was 
 drinking the liquor. When he got home his 
 master inquired how many bottles he had 
 brought. He answered so many. " Nay," 
 said the master, " there should be one more." 
 The slave stood stoutly to it that he had deli- 
 vered all the bottles that he had received. " It 
 is false," rejoined the master, "you have drunk 
 one by the way ; for this piece of paper tells 
 me that there was another bottle, which is not 
 here now." "That note is a great liar!" ex- 
 rhinird the astonished negro ; *' how could lie 
 sec me drink the wine, when I held him under 
 a stone till I had done 1 How could he see me 
 drink it, and tell you that I did!" 
 
 Among other instances of barbarous treatment, 
 li\ ]n isons unfit to be trusted with absolute 
 power over beings at least as good as themselves, 
 the following has been mentioned to us as hav- 
 ing happened several years since. A wretched 
 woman killed three of her slaves, who had dis- 
 pleased her, with a knife. She afterwards left 
 the island, and is still residing in France. 
 Some time ago, a negro, in a fit of melancholy, 
 hanged himself. He was discovered, and cut 
 down, apparently dead. 11 i> matter (determined 
 to show the malignancy as well as the impotency 
 of his displeasure) ordered the body to be flog- 
 ged, as though it were alive and could feel his 
 vengeance. After fifty strokes had been inflicted, 
 signs of life actually appeared. The brutal 
 punishment was suspended, and, by the use of 
 proper means, the unfortunate sufferer was 
 brought back to life and thraldom. He sur- 
 \i\nl several years, and his owner, it is said, is 
 still alive, and unashamed of what he did. 
 
 We shall close these examples of the effects 
 of slavery by a tact which shows that there is 
 something good in fallen human nature, which 
 even slavery cannot extinguish, and something 
 bad, which nothing, surely, but slavery could 
 infuse. A poor negress, who is a slave in this 
 colony, with great labour and long parsimony 
 had saved as much money as would buy a 
 human being. She had a daughter, a slave like 
 herself. What did shet She purchased that 
 daughter of their common owner, and set her at 
 liberty ; being content to remain in bondage 
 for the pleasure of seeing her child walking at 
 large, v\ ith nhoes on her feet, which are here 
 the badge of freedom among people of colour, 
 no slave being permitted to wear them. Soon 
 
 after the bargain had been completed, the affec- 
 tionate mother happening to come into a room 
 where this daughter was sitting, very naturally 
 and unconsciously sat down beside her, as she 
 had been wont to do. A moment or two after- 
 wards the daughter turned round in a r 
 rebuked her, exclaiming, " How dare ; 
 down in my presence? Do you not know that 
 I am a free woman, and you are a slave ? Rise 
 instantly, and leave the room." 
 
 On the 5th of March, 1828, a coup de rent, or 
 hurricane, passed over this island, which, more 
 frequently and grievously than any other in- 
 habited spot of land, is supposed to be subjected 
 to such visitations. The heat on the foregoing 
 day had been excessive, the thermometer 
 ing for some time at 91, with great el 
 and stagnation of the air. The evening was 
 pleasant, a fresh breeze having spin: 
 but this gradually increased to a storm, accom- 
 panied by distant thunder through the night. 
 Two hours after sunrise the wind blew with 
 considerable violence, and heavy rain 
 down. Presently it began to vary from a regu- 
 larly ill' .\e to sudden and im: 
 gusts, with intervals of two or three minutes. 
 The sky grew exceedingly black, and the clouds 
 continued to thicken and discharge tor: 
 water. At five p. m. the real hurricane began ; 
 the foliage] was torn from the trees, and the 
 atmosphere was presently in commotion with 
 ,iul light materials, such as thatch and 
 shingles, flying in all di. quarter 
 of an hour the squall 
 
 longer, and at length the whole force of the 
 tempest, in successive bursts, like waves of the 
 sea, drove over the town ; every house in which 
 shook to its foundations, and many were <\ 
 and dismantled. On the following nx 
 when we looked out, the streets were lik' 
 and cataracts of foam were rolling down the 
 mountains. Tin- ' all stripp. 
 
 multitudes of branches scatter hand; 
 
 several of th re torn up by their roots, 
 
 and hy in heaps upon the roads. "Tin- 
 as far as we could distinguish, were all 
 ed. Several dwellings and st<>! 
 been laid Hat in the town and neighbourhood. 
 The vessels in the port wore an aspect of dis- 
 tren, \\hich plainly showed that they had barely 
 weathered the devastation. On.. 
 had foundered, and the tops of hi r masts could 
 just be seen above water. Others had been 
 driven ashore, and their chain-cables snapped 
 asunder like threads. An Kast India merchant- 
 ship, the George Canning, just arrived from 
 Calcutta, which had dropped anchor in tin- 
 harbour on the preceding day, -was driven out 
 to sea, and wrecked on the coast, several miles 
 to the westward, when, of thirty-three persons 
 on board, sixteen were drowned, including the 
 captain and his wife, the ship's surgeon, and 
 several ; . She had struck npo] 
 
 and been assailed by an irresistible force of 
 breakers. The captain and the rest of those 
 that perished took their station on the poop ; 
 the seventeen who escaped took theirs upon 
 the forecastle. The forepart of the vessel being 
 
INTELLIGENCE RESPECTING MADAGASCAR FEMALE REBELLION. 269 
 
 aground, but not the aft, she soon parted at mid- 
 ships, when all on the poop were precipitated 
 into the abyss ; but those forward, in the sequel, 
 reached the shore in safety. Two large new 
 houses, built of wood, in a valley, were dashed 
 to pieces ; one of these was removed bodily 
 from its foundations to a distance of ninety- 
 feet, and then , hurled into ruins. A few mi- 
 nutes previously twenty-one persons had been 
 under its roof, but happily had left it before 
 the catastrophe. The cottage of a woman, 
 who was expecting every hour to become a 
 mother, which stood near a river in the vicinity 
 of Port Louis, was taken up, and let down in 
 its proper position in the middle of the stream. 
 The inmate remained uninjured. On the plant- 
 ations in the country the cabins of the poor 
 were almost all prostrated or laid open. 
 Twenty *five mules and a horse were killed by 
 tin- destruction of the stabling on an estate near 
 Mr. Telfair's. A wooden mansion, of great 
 strength, thirty feet long by twenty wide, be- 
 longing to Mr. White, a friend of ours, at Grand 
 River, was pushed more than three yards from 
 its original basis. An immense tamarind-tree 
 adjacent was fairly plucked up and overthrown, 
 though some of its roots, as they came out of the 
 ground, measured from twenty to thirty feet in 
 length. We heard of no lives having been lost, 
 during this hurricane, on land. The seventeen 
 - rescued from the wreck were accommo- 
 dated with board and lodgings at the hospitalhere, 
 till they could conveniently provide for them- 
 \\ Y visited them there, and found them 
 in good health and spirits, none having suffered 
 any serious personal injury. "When Mr. Ben- 
 net, after congratulating them on their extraor- 
 dinary . ressed a hope that they would 
 ever bear in grateful remembrance the goodness 
 of (iod in preserving them, when so many of 
 their comrades were taken away at a stroke, 
 the boatswain, with characteristic indifference, 
 replied, " Why, if we were always to be think- 
 ing in that way, we should never venture to sea 
 a^ain. Tor my part, I have got a new berth; 
 1 go on board to-morrow ; and I intend to do 
 my duty.'' 
 
 Within sixteen days after the desolations of 
 
 tin's hurricane, the whole face of the country 
 
 appeared to have been renewed, the trees were 
 
 I with foliage, and the ground with grass 
 
 and flowers. 
 
 During our long detention here we have been 
 making inquiries, whenever opportunity offered, 
 respecting the circumstances and state of society 
 in Madagascar, whither Ave are bound. It is 
 j-'-nendly known .that Radama, the king (who, 
 though originally a provincial chief, has now 
 subjugated to himself four-fifths of the island, 
 which he governs with great-wisdom and energy), 
 some time ago concluded a treaty with the Bri- 
 \i-riiment for the abolition of the slave- 
 tride throughout his dominions, which, we un- 
 derstiind, lie has faithfully endeavoured to carry 
 into complete effect, notwithstanding all tempta- 
 tions and facilities to evade it. He has also 
 encouraged our countrymen to settle in his 
 territories, to instruct his subjects in commerce, 
 
 agriculture, and useful arts. With a view to the 
 introduction of other branches of knowledge 
 though still adhering to the superstitions of his 
 country himself he protects, in the most de- 
 cided manner, our Missionaries in their labours 
 of teaching the common elements of education, 
 in connexion with religious instructions, to such 
 as will hearken to the latter and apply them- 
 selves to the former. In furtherance also of his 
 enlarged and enlightened plans for elevating 
 Madagascar above its state of semi-barbarism, 
 he likewise sent a number of youths, including 
 a prince of the blood royal, to England, to acquire 
 a superior education to any that could be obtained 
 at home. 
 
 The Malagasse are known to be exceedingly 
 vindictive; they will not forget an injury till it 
 has been fully avenged. They therefore very 
 rarely strike one another, and never submit to a 
 blow without pursuing, if it be possible, the 
 offender to death, if they cannot kill him in- 
 stantly. Several Englishmen were sent from 
 hence to Madagascar for the execution of some 
 public work, 011 which a great number of natives 
 were employed. The superintendent was a re- 
 markably quiet and patient man; but being one 
 day greatly harassed and wearied out with the 
 laziness of the Malagasse labourers, he impru- 
 dently gave one of them a blow. The same 
 evening, while he was sitting in his house among 
 his friends, a shot was fired at him through an 
 opening in the wall, by which not he but ano- 
 ther person present was killed. The man who 
 discharged the musket was known to be the same 
 whom he had chastised ; but the fellow imme- 
 diately made his escape. Next morning the 
 overseer, and the party who had been with him 
 when the assassination was perpetrated, Avent in 
 a body to complain to the local magistrates ; 
 but, not having taken the precaution to arm 
 themselves, they were waylaid by a gang of 
 natives and all murdered on the spot. The 
 original culprit was afterwards apprehended, 
 hanged, and gibbeted, under the laws of the 
 island. 
 
 A female rebellion took place a little while 
 ago in consequence of the following extraordi- 
 nary grievance. It was the privilege of persons 
 of that sex to dress the king's hair ; and in the 
 beauty of their long black locks both men and 
 women take great pride. When Prince Ratafi'e 
 returned to Madagascar from England, his head 
 had been shorn of its barbarous honours, and 
 converted into a curly crop. Radama was so 
 pleased with this foreign fashion that he deter- 
 mined to adopt it, to rid himself, probably, of 
 the periodical plague of hair-dressing, which, 
 according to the costume of his country, Avas a 
 work of no little labour on the part of his female 
 barbers, and of suffering patience on his part. 
 Accordingly he took an opportunity, when he 
 happened to be at some distance from his capi- 
 tal, to have his head polled nearly to the scalp. 
 His first appearance in public, so disfigured, 
 thrcAV the Avomen, whose business Avas thus cut 
 up, into equal consternation and frenzy. They 
 rose in mass, and their clamours threatened no 
 little public commotion. But Radama was not 
 
270 
 
 SANGUINARY LAWS TRIAL BY ORDEAL. 
 
 a man to be intimidated or diverted from his 
 purpose by such means. His measures were 
 severe and decisive. He surrounded the whole 
 insurgent mob with a body of well-disciplined 
 soldiers, and demanded the immediate surrender 
 of four of their ringleaders. These being given 
 up, he turned to his guards and said, " Will 
 nobody rid me of these troublesome women 1" 
 when those present rushed upon the poor crea- 
 tures and slaughtered them at once. Radama 
 then commanded the dead bodies to be thrown 
 into the midst of their companions, who were 
 kept three days without food in the armed circle 
 of military, while the dogs, before their eyes, 
 devoured the putrid corpses of their friends. 
 The consequences did not stop here ; infection 
 broke out, some died, and the rest fled and re- 
 turned to their homes. 
 
 The laws of Madagascar are very sanguinary, 
 and capital punishment is inflicted for very small 
 offences. Some years ago, we are told, it was 
 death to take snuff, smoke tobacco, or for a 
 man to keep a dog or a cat in his house. Trial 
 by ordeal was frequent, and it was with the ut- 
 most difficulty that a practice so iniquitous and 
 absurd could be abolished even by a royal 
 despot. Radama, the king, being ill, the 
 Knglish agent (Mr. Hastie) gave him calomel; 
 in consequence of which his Majesty's mouth 
 became, as was to be expected, aflfected, ;,ml his 
 breath nrtid. The courtiers insisted that he had 
 been poisoned by some of his household, and 
 required that they should all be subjected to the 
 tanyhut. Hoth the King and the l-inglish aireiit 
 assured them that they were mistaken, and 
 stated the simple fact, the reason of the symp- 
 toms, and the probable cure that would ensue. 
 They \\ould not believe ; and Kadama. himself 
 was compelled to yield to their demands. The 
 tangina is the poisonous kernel of an indigenous 
 nut ; a little of which being scraped off upon 
 the tongue of the suspected person, with certain 
 ceremonies, it is presumed that if guiltless it 
 will not hurt, but if guilty it will destroy him. 
 On this occasion thirty innocent people \\ en- 
 tried by this test, when twenty-eight of them 
 died. 
 
 A yet more hideous mockery of justice was 
 sometimes employed. The queen was ill, and 
 she was supposed to have been poisoned by 
 some of her female attendants. A number of 
 these were brought to the ordeal of (each) 
 having first one joint of one finger, then another 
 of the same, and so on from finger to tin^vr, and 
 from the fingers to the hands, and from the 
 hands to the wrists, the \vrists to the elbows, 
 and the elbows up to the shoulders, chopped 
 off in succession (even to the mutilation of the 
 whole body in case of contumacy), so long as the 
 sufferer could endure the torture, that is, till 
 she confessed the crime of which she was only 
 suspected, whether guilty or not ; when she 
 was of course put to death at once. Thus there 
 was no alternative between being murdered by 
 inches, or by one merciful blow, the mercy 
 not being shown till the wretch v\as thus proved 
 to be a criminal, and deserving of none. 
 
 One of our Missionaries once witnessed a 
 
 most tragical spectacle, the burning alive of 
 three soldiers, who had been found guilty of 
 cowardice, a misdemeanor which Radama 
 punishes with inexorable rigour. The culprits 
 were brought forth heavily loaded with chains. 
 One of them, however, by a desperate effort, got 
 away and rushed down a neighbouring preci- 
 pice ; but he was pursued, overtaken, and hur- 
 ried back to the place of execution. There the 
 three living bodies were laid like fagots, one 
 upon another, when, wood being heaped around 
 them, fire was set to the pile, and the whole 
 were consumed together. 
 
 One day, when the late British resident was 
 dining at the palace, one of the wives of Radama 
 had in some manner offended him, when, so 
 impetuous and unappeasable v\;;s his wrath, 
 that he called to an officer at table, and com- 
 manded him to go out instantly and spear the 
 woman. Tho officer obeyed ; and, soon after re- 
 turning, the king inquired whether his order had 
 been obeyed. " Yes, she's spear'd," was the reply, 
 and the company proceeded with their dinners 
 as though a mere every-day circum-t::i.ce had 
 happened. He knows, notwithstanding^ when 
 and how, in a politic w:n, to exercise clemency. 
 Some of his conquered enemies and forced sub- 
 jects have taken th>- oath of allegi- 
 four times, and a^ain rebelled, before he has 
 finally passed sentence of death upon them. 
 How* powerfully does the recital of 
 as these confirm the declaration of Scripture, 
 " that the dark places of the earth are full of 
 the habitations of cruelh !" And how strongly 
 should it excite every Christian heart to plead 
 with (iod speedily to fulfil his " {-(.mm/if," 
 which declare-' it to lie hi- purpose " that the 
 earth shall be full of the knowledge of the 
 L'lKu, as the waters cover the depths of the 
 
 CHAPTER L. 
 
 Further Information re-p-Hiii.- V The late 
 
 Mr. Hastie, HritUl. 
 
 . israr on tin- Death of a Nati\c Tribute to the 
 Kim: Unyal Kxhoitation in favour of Hu>l>:mdr> 
 Punishment of Offenders-- Sumptuary Law riranii- 
 ness liur\in^ Valuables w.thth li-niunlcr 
 
 >ini:nlar Keiea-e of Prisoners HatalV* I : 
 Amulet* Harl.arou-i Ouleal Kx]>editi >n of ! 
 l.ima Kind's Army IVculiar HurialM-i\ir 
 uous Liquor Hand' of liohhrrs attacked Moderation 
 nf Itailama Northern pait of Mad:i_':i>car I 
 Scull* Favour shown t.. HritUh Shij* Characteristic 
 
 Dialo-ue Modi- of ratchinn Fi>h AllitMt ; 
 
 Ke\> -The word Vuhini: Lari'e Haml>oo> Wild 
 
 Hulls Prayer of an at-od ( hiefiain for Sue. 
 
 Kilter pri>e Vampire- Hats Wild lioai > 
 
 K.uiie-tie Animal* (irain cultivated Y 
 Women Notices of the Country Conduct of the Kin-; 
 during an Kxik-dition. 
 
 AMONG those of our countrymen who have from 
 time to time resided a while in Madagascar, none, 
 probably, ever enjoyed so much of the confidence 
 of Radama, or exercised so much influence o\er 
 him, as the late Mr. Hastie. He had been in 
 the ranks of the army in this island ( Mauritius), 
 but having distinguished himself by various 
 public services, and by some means or other 
 having obtained sufficient acquaintance with the 
 Malagasse language, he was employed b\ (i.>- 
 
HUSBANDRY ENCOURAGED SUMPTUARY LAWS. 
 
 271 
 
 vernor Farquhar in the negociation for abolish- 
 ing the slave-trade in that quarter. This being 
 successfully accomplished, Mr. Hasiie remained 
 at the court of Raclama as representative of the 
 British interests there. Subsequently he accom- 
 panied the king in various campaigns and jour- 
 neys in different parts of Madagascar, and 
 became, in a great, measure, his Majesty's lead- 
 ing adviser, in both military and civil matters. 
 In this situation he befriended our Mission- 
 aries, and the cause in which they were en- 
 gaged, in various ways. He died not long 
 ago. From some of his papers, which have been 
 put into our hands by a member of the Mauri- 
 tius government, we have collected the follow- 
 ing intelligence respecting Madagascar and its 
 affairs. 
 
 From .!//. Ilastie's Journal, from September 1, 
 1822, to April 22, Ib23. 
 
 It is a custom of the natives of Madagascar 
 to fire small arms repeatedly near the houses 
 where the bodies of their deceased relations are 
 laid out ; also, on every occasion of removing a 
 corpse ; and the mortality in the camp, at 
 times, has been such, that the observance of 
 this formality towards the dead bodies brought 
 to the capital for interment caused an almost 
 I constant discharge of musketry. Yet it is de- 
 | serving of notice, that the custom of bringing 
 the bones of persons who have died in distant 
 districts to the neighbourhood of the residences 
 of their families is now practised to a very 
 limited extent in comparison with former times ; 
 three bodies only having been brought from the 
 Sae;il:ive district whilst any appearance of hos- 
 tility existed there, though thousands have been 
 removed since the termination of the war. 
 
 On the conclusion, of the addresses made by 
 the King Itadama and the chiefs, in kabare, or 
 public assembly, the usual formality of present- 
 ing HMmtMMM (tribute) to the king commenced, 
 and several hundred dollars, cut in small pieces, 
 besides a greater quantity uncut, were speedily 
 collected. 
 
 The chieftains were assembled to-day (Jan. 
 24, 1823). The king (Radama) again addressed 
 them, representing an immediate necessity for 
 their application to husbandry and manufac- 
 tures, us the only means by which their situa- 
 tion maybe improved, and their wants satisiied. 
 He spoke largely on the subject, and concluded 
 by saying " Surely you will exert yourselves 
 to raise your progeny from a level with the 
 ('aii'res. We must no longer be classed with 
 the Mo/.ambiques. Our friends declare thatwe 
 were not born to be slaves." He then distri- 
 buted a quantity of wheat and other grain, to 
 be sown, among the chiefs, &c. At the close 
 of the meeting, agreeably to the custom of the 
 country, those who had received the seed en- 
 tered into wagers with each other on the success 
 of their particular modes of cultivating it. 
 
 It was a custom of the chieftains of the dis- 
 trict of Ovah to allow persons, or the descend- 
 ants of such, who had rendered particular ser- 
 \ices to the state, or more immediately to their 
 ancestors, the privilege of demanding pardon 
 
 for themselves, or even a member of their family, 
 on the event of such individuals having trans- 
 gressed the laws. But this custom being at- 
 tended by various evils has been abolished by 
 the king, who decreed that rewards should be 
 given to the brave and deserving. He con- 
 firmed the existing laws which declare that a 
 theft of any property amounting in value to 
 more than a fowl, or the twenty-fourth part of 
 a dollar, should subject the perpetrator to a 
 kdbare (trial) ; and enacted that all minor thefts 
 should subject the offenders to work such a 
 number of days on the public roads as the po- 
 lice-officers of the district where such thefts 
 were committed should adjudge. He also po- 
 sitively commanded that the police of every 
 district should furnish rations to every person 
 voluntarily offering his services on the public 
 works, by which means he removed the neces- 
 sity of any person committing a theft to satisfy 
 the wants of nature, as his labour would thus 
 secure him subsistence. 
 
 When advice has been given to the natives 
 of Ovah tending to excite them to industry, 
 they have been frequently heard to state that 
 they did not labour under any particular wants, 
 as they were not permitted to wear jewellery 
 and clothes, except of a certain description, 
 which latter, and subsistence, they obtained 
 without much exertion. It being also ascer- 
 tained that the prohibition of the use of pork 
 had not originated in the observance of any 
 religious formalities, but was a command of the 
 king's ancestors and as it was the general 
 opinion that an abolition of such restrictions 
 would be of advantage in promoting industry 
 and economy a representation was made to 
 Radama to that effect, which was ultimately 
 successful. As some mark of distinction, how- 
 ever, was deemed necessary to be preserved, it 
 was finally enacted, " that no person, not of 
 noble blood, should wear cither gold or 
 coral in their hair." The king again took oc- 
 casion, when he granted this favour, to recom- 
 mend agriculture, manufactures, and commerce ; 
 and made a law by which any person found to 
 pass two or more successive days in idleness 
 should be subjected to work a similar number 
 of days on the roads ! 
 
 The tumult of joy on the publishing of the 
 kabarc, taking off the restrictions, (named 
 above) exceeded any that I have witnessed in 
 Ovah since the abolition of the slave-trade for 
 exportation. The shouts of exultation and 
 thanks were so violent and continued, that the 
 ministers could not obtain silence to publish 
 some other orders about building bridges, for 
 upwards of two hours. And on the dispersing 
 of the assembly, the buzz of joyful expressions, 
 thanking Radama, was continued in every di- 
 rection. 
 
 The want of cleanliness at the capital, in the 
 public streets and passages, could not fail to 
 attract the attention of every stranger. Indeed, 
 to it may in a great measure be attributed the 
 sufferings of a part of the population, many of 
 whom are afflicted with filthy diseases. An 
 order was issued for keeping the metropolis 
 
272 
 
 CHILD-MURDER IN MADAGASCAR PRISONERS REDEEMED. 
 
 clean, and the disobedient were subjected to 
 penalties. Hence, from being as filthy a town 
 as any in the eastern hemisphere, Tananarivo 
 may vie with the best regulated as to cleanliness. 
 
 It was a matter much to be regretted that 
 many persons, endeavouring to make a display 
 of respect for deceased relatives, often contracted 
 debts in purchasing valuable clothes and orna- 
 ments to throw into the graves of the departed, 
 agreeably to ancient usage. Indeed, several 
 instances have occurred in which individuals 
 had been reduced to bondage for want of punc- 
 tuality in discharging their engagements on 
 such accounts. Thus had the dead been en- 
 veloped in rich clothing and ornaments, and 
 surrounded by silver, whilst the nearest living 
 relations were reduced by such means to the 
 lowest state man can arrive at slavery. This 
 evil has been in a great measure put down by 
 a' law " That all debts contracted for the pur- 
 pose of obtaining articles to bury with deceased 
 persons are declared to be unlawful, and can- 
 not be recovered." 
 
 The barbarous custom of putting childn n to 
 dentil in some parts of Madagascar, born on 
 certain unlucky (lays, had awfully prevailed. 
 This e\il is likewise stopped, to a great extent, 
 by a law which declares the crime muiV. 
 cept in the Maam district; when- the chief is 
 in favour of the horrid practice. But the wo- 
 men of that district who are likely to be con- 
 fined on any of the unlucky drus are permitted, 
 nay, required, to leave the place before their 
 delivery, and to take up their abode in Ovah. 
 The king is resolved to put down this exception 
 also very soon. 
 
 From Mr. ITustic's Journal, from Sept. 28, 
 'j:$, to Jan. 1, 1824. 
 
 lladama, in a failure (or public assembly), on 
 one occasion exhorted the people not to con- 
 sult the sorcerers, or resort to ordeals in doubt- 
 ful cases, in settling petty differences among 
 themselves. At every favourable opportunity 
 he warns them not to deal in slaves. Finding 
 that some chiefs had winked at a murder, he 
 displaced them, and appointed others in their 
 stead. IJein^ informed that a store containing 
 rice, which belonged to a European, had been 
 burnt down, he told the people that in future, 
 if anything of the kind happened, the whole 
 district should make good the loss. A sergeant 
 in the army, convicted of cowardice, was im- 
 mediately burnt alive. 
 
 On the banks of the Esanbava the following 
 scene took place : lladama ordered that all the 
 prisoners of war should be led forth ; he then 
 desired those natives of the several districts 
 through which he had passed, who, at his re- 
 quest, had been deputed to accompany them, to 
 lay claim, if they could, to such as had been 
 made prisoners, though not taken in open hos- 
 tility. The entire number of captives exposed 
 was upwards of sixteen hundred. Any \iew 
 which description may present can but faintly 
 portray what followed. Feelings of com- 
 miseration were for the moment suspended, on 
 ohsening the intense anxiety with which all 
 
 parties that were interested looked around ; 
 these to discover and claim their kindred 
 those in search of relations, 'or companions, who 
 would claim them and (a third party) many of 
 the possessors of the captives staring in dismay, 
 for fear of the approach of claimants of their 
 booty. A brief pause took place, which was 
 interrupted to afford pleasure of a superior de- 
 scription. More than a fourth of the prisoners 
 were led to the front by soldiers, who honour- 
 ably declared that these individuals had not 
 been taken in arms. The burst of applause 
 occasioned by this conduct continued several 
 minutes, and inanjaka indriano (king indeed !) 
 resounded through the assembly. A number 
 of persons were then brought forward, who be- 
 longed not to districts concerned with those in 
 hostility to Radama, but who had, on va^ue 
 reports, abandoned their houses, and been taken 
 amongst those who had refused allegiance to 
 Ovah (Tananarivo). These the king ordered 
 to be released, at a ransom of three dollars each ; 
 on which a second thunder of applause broke 
 forth. Bartering and ransoming then occupied 
 all parties to a late hour, when it was found 
 that few, besides the dependents on Matahita- 
 soannata, remained unredeemed. What 
 riety of sensations many of these poor creatures 
 must have experienced during the day ! Some 
 captives were seen in extreme an 
 around for a friend to claim them. < 
 after finding such a one, were buMly contriving 
 means to raise the necessary sum, or an equi- 
 valent, to purchase liberty. In several in 
 enough was found to obtain the freedom of a 
 mother, a wife, or a sister; yet not enough to 
 obtain the release of her sucking infant ; and it 
 was delightful to witness the a^dity with which 
 the relations, acquaintances, and neighbours of 
 the sufferers stripped themselves of their orna- 
 ments, and even their clothing, to eii< 
 emancipation of their connexions. Se\ 
 the unfortunate group who had, for a long time, 
 vainly desired the approach of a relation or 
 friend, and were consequently suffering that 
 depression which the expiring hopes of release 
 from slavery must intlict, were unexpectedly 
 cheered by the embrace of a deliverer; and, at 
 the instant when they were sinking into : 
 were tilled -\\ith all the happy emotions that a 
 return to home and liberty could diffuse. Others 
 airain, as hope died, and time wore aw:;; 
 into despondency, or became so stupiti. 
 
 re unconscious of the misery that awaited 
 them. The eagerness with which many of the 
 deputed persons who had accompanied the king 
 from the southward (for the purpo- 
 inir those connected with them) sought out the 
 objects for whom they were hit 
 truly gratifying ; nor could their disappointment 
 when such search proved un>iicees>ful 
 tired without pain. It is true that apathy and 
 indolence, a recklessness for the present state, 
 and want of thought for the future, might be 
 found depicted on some countenances ; but 
 these attracted little observation amidst the 
 more impressive scenes around, which could 
 not fail to excite iu the beholder sentin, 
 
RATAFFE BARBAROUS ORDEAL. 
 
 273 
 
 admiration and delight, to witness the workings 
 of nature in these rude people ; and which 
 transported his attention from group to group, 
 through all the diversity of affecting occurrences 
 which were momentarily taking place. Next 
 day it was found that a considerable number 
 was left, who were unable to ransom them- 
 selves. Hereupon, Mr. Hastie having pleaded 
 their cause, the king was induced to give them 
 all their liberty, and return the money which 
 had been paid in pledge the day before. He 
 likewise restored nearly all the cattle which his 
 army had taken. This crowning act of grace 
 occasioned an indescribable tumult of joy. 
 
 Rataffe, a chief who commanded an army in 
 a province which was in alliance with Radama, 
 had committed various acts of plunder, as well 
 as allowed his officers and soldiers to do the 
 .same, in carrying off the people's cattle, taking 
 their clothes, trinkets, cooking utensils, &c. 
 This came to the knowledge of Radama, when 
 he travelled through the district. He imme- 
 diately called a private meeting of Rataffe, (his 
 brother-in-law) and all his officers, and re- 
 buked them with great severity, as having dis- 
 obeyed his orders, and broken the terms of 
 alliance. He concluded by ordering every ar- 
 ticle, even the most minute, to be brought forth 
 immediately, and put down on a plain ; adding, 
 in Umgoage well understood in this island, that, 
 if Uataffe and the officers of the army did not 
 most strictly obey his orders, they must remem- 
 ber that they were their own executioners. Im- 
 mediately herds of cattle, clothes, household 
 furniture, personal ornaments, and all sorts of 
 things in common use, covered the plain, and 
 the claimants were directed to come forward 
 and identity their property, and take it away. 
 The king afterwards sent a message, to the 
 chieftain of the district, that he AVUS angry and 
 Lrnrved for the wrong which had been done, and 
 which was entirely contrary, not to his wishes 
 only, but also to his commands ; and further- 
 more to prove his sincerity, he had determined 
 to send a part of his people to offer tribute at 
 the tombs of the ancestors of the Royana chief- 
 tains, and to deposit there those gifts which, 
 l'\ usage, are deemed acceptable as an atone- 
 ment for any unintentional breach of a political 
 aient. 
 
 natives of one place are described in 
 Mr. Hastie's journal as clothed in rofia-palm- 
 cloth of their own manufacture. Their orna- 
 ments chiefly consist of bits of wood cut into 
 a variety of fanciful forms and strung with 
 t lireud so as to make collars and necklaces, 
 which are generally charged with amulets or 
 nostrums, that are purchased from a class of 
 people who live well by imposing on the credulity 
 of others. Such charms are reported to possess 
 virtues to prevent, or render ineffectual, any at- 
 tempt meditated against the wearers by their 
 enemies. These people appear very desirous to 
 obtain showy baubles in glass, brass, and earth- 
 enware. Many elderly persons, and others in the 
 prime of life, fall victims to the ordeal by Tan- 
 gi-na an usage by which Mr. Hastie says that 
 he has known Ovah (the district comprehend- 
 
 ing the capital), annually deprived of thousands 
 of inhabitants. This superstition still remains 
 in effect; and such is the prejudice of the na- 
 tives that scarcely a sigh escapes for the suffer- 
 ings of the nearest or dearest connexions when 
 they are submitted to this ordeal. The practice 
 is for both the accuser and the accused to drink 
 poison, or tangena ; and the people have a no- 
 tion that if the party be innocent the poison 
 will take no effect ; but if guilty it will immedi- 
 ately kill him. Mr. Hastie mentions several 
 instances of this barbarous ordeal, and, amongst 
 others, the following: A man of the name of 
 Layhoor, being in debt, went into another dis- 
 trict, where he stole a fine boy, and offered him 
 to his creditor in payment. This villain was 
 detected ; but he denied the fact, and submitted 
 to the ordeal for, being a crafty fellow, he 
 knew how to counteract the effects of the poison 
 consequently he survived the test and was 
 acquitted. Afterwards, however, he was again 
 brought up to answer for the crime, when he 
 was proved guilty, and sold himself into slavery. 
 Meanwhile, on the other hand, the creditor who 
 had received the boy from him in payment of a 
 just debt, declined to drink the poison, where- 
 upon he was declared guilty of being himself the 
 thief, and, as a penalty, was obliged to give two 
 slaves, one of whom was his own child. When 
 the real culprit, his fraudulent debtor, was sub- 
 sequently discovered, of course the two slaves 
 were returned to the wronged and innocent 
 creditor. A man was charged with having 
 stolen a bullock ; but, in this instance, the or- 
 deal was tried upon dogs, representing the loser 
 and the supposed thief. The latter was found 
 guilty and enslaved. In the sequel, however, 
 the bullock which had been missing and for 
 which the poor fellow had been punished, was 
 found, and he was restored to liberty. Mr. 
 Jefferies (a medical gentleman) was requested 
 to attend a female after child-birth ; help came 
 too late, and she died. The king happening to 
 remark to her relatives that the people about 
 her should have been more careful, on the en- 
 suing day the deceased's mother and sister, her 
 husband's mother, two other near kinsfolk, all 
 the family, evincing extreme grief at their loss, 
 came to his Majesty, and requested permission 
 to take the tangena, to prove their innocence 
 of any intended neglect or maltreatment of their 
 relative. Radama told them that there was no 
 occasion for the ordeal, and that they were fools 
 for proposing it, as out of five some one or more 
 would most likely suffer, They all declared 
 that the guilty alone could suffer ; and repeated 
 their request to be allowed to prove their inno- 
 cence, stating that it was necessary for their 
 characters that they should do so, or the world 
 would consider them guilty. Finally, the king 
 permitted the ordeal to be resorted to ; when 
 the ampananguin or administrator of the po- 
 tion, having, as Radama expressed it, made the 
 draught too bitter, every one of the five fell vic- 
 tims to this feeling of honour, and not a tear 
 was shed for them. 
 
 Radama declared that these recent instances 
 were not necessary to prove to him the fallacy 
 
 T 
 
274 
 
 WAR-PREPARATIONSBAND OF ROBBERS ATTACKED. 
 
 of the ordeal ; yet he advanced even the latter 
 - a proof that the prejudice is so in favour 
 of the ordeal that it keeps thousands from com- 
 mitting crimes ; and only hardened rogues will 
 dare to essay it. People would exclaim, were 
 he to prohibit the use of it " What, will Rada- 
 ma no longer permit the administration of jus- 
 tice t" The king is, however, determined to 
 abolish the practice at an early period. 
 
 [From Mr. Hastie's Journal, from May 26 
 and 27, to Nov. 2, when he accompanied Ra- 
 dama on an expedition.] 
 
 HIM lama, before he set off, supplicated divine 
 aid in his undertakings at the tombs of his an- 
 cestors. He did the same in passing through 
 the village of Ambuymonga, where his father 
 was buried. A little north of the capital there 
 is a custom of the people feeding on the cattle 
 of the rich after their death. Many poles are 
 set up, on which the sculls of twenty to forty 
 head of cattle consumed on such an occasion, 
 are exposed ; and marks of upwards of a thou- 
 sand fire-places are frequently seen in the vici- 
 nity of tombs. Thermometer at sunrise 53 ; at 
 three, p.m., at 90f . 
 
 Before setting ofF, the army sat on the outside 
 of their tents the whole of one night, singing 
 songs, extempore, in which they mentioned tin- 
 probable consequences of their expedition 
 plunder and prisoners. The army consisted 
 of 
 
 The king's first and second Brigade . 4320 
 Artillery . COO 
 Engineers 650 
 
 5570 
 
 Avaradraun, or third Brigade . . .2160 
 
 Vakinsisonc 2160 
 
 Maronvatan 2160 
 
 Ambondarane 2160 
 
 14,210 
 
 A theft was committed in a teat. The cul- 
 prit was discovered, and, the theft being proved, 
 he was condemned to die. and inuuediately 6X6- 
 cuted. The sun was so hot that many fell down 
 out of the ranks. Thermometer 93, noon. 
 They were now in lat. 17 16' 50". Tananarive 
 is in 18 56'. On high ground the wind was 
 sometimes so strong as to overthrow all their 
 tents. 
 
 When tho. Sacalaves (the inhabitants of a par- 
 ticular district) are proceeding to the burial of 
 a person of distinction, many of the cattle of the 
 deceased an- dmen on the route to the place of 
 interment by the relatives and friends or fol- 
 lowers, who, in token of their sorrow and regret, 
 kill many beasts on the road. The slaughter 
 made on a recent occasion of conveying the 
 corpse of a chieftain by the path which we tra- 
 velled this day, so far exceeded what the mourn- 
 ers could consume or carry with them, that the 
 stench of the residue left to decay, which are 
 many carcases (the rumps only having been 
 taken off), is very offensive indeed. 
 
 The natives here make a bad spirit from the 
 shctau, or palm (wild cocoa) nuts. From these 
 lhc\ remove the outside rind, and add to them 
 
 an equal portion of the leaves of a tree called 
 suthelie ; then, placing the mixture in earthen 
 vessels sunk in the ground, it there ferments, 
 and is distilled through a gun-barrel, the muz- 
 zle of which is luted to the cover of th< 
 in which the liquor is boiled. This barrel 
 passes through a trough of water, as a conden<i T, 
 of such a length as to permit the touch-hole 
 through which the spirit drops to exceed 
 tremity about two inches. 
 
 Radama attacked a band of robbers who lived 
 upon a small island in a lake. He lost thirty- 
 eight men, who were killed by the robbers ; but 
 afterwards took the island and made six hun- 
 dred prisoners. One of his officers suggested t<> 
 Radama the propriety of avenging the massacre 
 of his soldiers on the men taken prisoners. The 
 king immediately disapproved of the cruel pro- 
 posal, saying : " You are aware that the per- 
 sons concerned in the slaughter of my soldiers 
 have escaped. Why should we punish these 
 who we know were not of that party 1 11 
 you should bear in mind that these people were 
 then our enemies, and were acting in self-de- 
 fence. Were I to treat my conquered i 
 you propose, I should find much more opposi- 
 tion than I now do in warfare, and should never 
 gain a true subject." In attacking these robbers 
 in the dark, one of his officers deserted his post. 
 immediately brought before Radama ; 
 a tribunal was convened and the oti 
 was clearly proved ; on which the king 01 
 that, in consideration of his past services (his 
 army-rank being that of a colonel, and hi - 
 ditary rank that of a nobleman), his punishment 
 should be ameliorated, namely that he should 
 be shot previous to being cast into the flames. 
 
 The village of Ambuymonga, near Tananam o, 
 was formerly the residence of Radama' s : 
 and the place where he was interred. < > 
 dama's arrival there he immediately pr. 
 to the tomb of his father, and returned thanks 
 to the gods for his successful journey and safe re- 
 turn. On reaching his capital a vast concourse 
 of people met him, to congratulate him on his 
 return from the war. He told them he had 
 brought back no spoil, had reduced not a snide 
 individual to slavery, nor shed any blood ; but 
 his triumph was a great increase of territory to 
 the north of his capital. He applauded his sol- 
 diers, and exhorted all who wished to secure his 
 favour to exercise industry and to study the arts 
 of commerce. After the meeting he immediately 
 repaired to the tombs of his ancestors and re- 
 turned thanks to the gods there for the succour 
 afforded him in sickness, as well as for the suc- 
 cess which had attended his endeavours t 
 blish tranquillity in his country and induce his 
 subjects to cultivate the arts of peace. 
 
 In this expedition the king went from his ca- 
 pital down the east coast, visiting all the ports 
 to the northern extremity of the island, and re- 
 turned by the west coast. The northern part 
 of the island appears to be poor and sterile and 
 very thinly inhabited by tribes of ill-looking 
 people. Their houses are built of mud or mat- 
 tings of palm-loaves. Their clothing is me-in, 
 made of hemp and cotton mixed, or still 
 
FAVOUR SHOWN TO BRITISH SHIPS CHARACTERISTIC DIALOGUE. 275 
 
 materials. They have herds of cattle, as well as 
 sheep, goats, and guinea-fowls. They grow rice, 
 manioc (jatropha manihot), sugar-canes, &c. 
 Their villages do not appear to he fortified, as 
 they are not afraid of invasion. All suhmitted 
 to him, and owned him their sovereign, and 
 brought him tribute. The face of the country 
 is covered with mountains and hills ; of the val- 
 leys between, some, but not many, are cultivated. 
 The king appears to have acted with great 
 justice and lenity, and to have received every 
 mark of respect. 
 
 In the palace of the chieftain of Boyana, the 
 great testimonials of his royalty the sculls of 
 his ancestors were preserved upon a raised 
 frame, enclosed by hangings of white cloth. 
 
 On landing, the ministers of Andrian Soul 
 (their chief) descrying a herd of cattle, imme- 
 diately shot two of the best bullocks in it, ac- 
 cording to a custom practised by all persons 
 charged on duty by the chiefs of Boyana. 
 
 In a conversation with Commodore Nourse, 
 of the Andromache, Radama said that, " in the 
 early part of his life he was in a state of dark- 
 ness ; his forefathers, to whom it was his duty 
 to look up with respect, were entirely unac- 
 quainted with the proceedings of the world, and 
 consequently were incapable of giving him such 
 instruction as could advance him above their 
 low estate. He had, however, by application 
 and perseverance, got into a path by which he 
 was enabled to raise himself. The success at- 
 tending his various enterprises was such as 
 s:iti-fied him that he was correct in attributing 
 all he knew to the lessons which he had re- 
 ceived from the British nation and government. 
 1 1 e was confirmed in the propriety of his pre- 
 sent views, and he would therefore pursue them 
 with increased ardour." 
 
 The plans of a certain chief and his people, 
 conquered by Radama, had been generally laid, 
 and were sometimes executed by a woman origi- 
 nally a slave, but who had the address to make 
 them believe that she was the spirit of a deceased 
 chieftain of note, called Triemamoshima Maan, 
 who formerly was possessed of great power in 
 the district named Yalanhafonts. 
 
 Radama on one occasion declared that to ex- 
 port or import slaves were crimes of equal mag- 
 nitude and ought to be punished as capital 
 offences ; that theft should be punished with 
 loss of life or liberty, according to circumstances ; 
 and that he prohibited his subjects from resort- 
 ing to the use of nostrums, charms, or unknown 
 medicines, which are frequently to their great 
 detriment, imposed on them by designing 
 knaves at high prices ; but which have, in many 
 instances, occasioned much disturbance and 
 bloodshed, by inducing the credulous who trust 
 in them to disobey the laws, and even to rise up 
 in arms against the established authorities. 
 
 Aug. 3, 1824. Radama published a decree 
 that all British vessels visiting his ports for law- 
 ful trade should pay fifteen dollars charge-money, 
 and live per cent, duty on all articles, the pro- 
 duce of Madagascar, exported. This was ac- 
 companied with an assurance of safety and pro- 
 tection to British subjects, for the better civilisa- 
 
 tion of his people, and the introduction of various 
 arts and sciences among them ; expressly allow- 
 ing the former to build ships and houses, to 
 cultivate lands, to carry on lawful trade ; also 
 to come and go at their own pleasure without 
 hindrance or payment of any other duty. 
 
 Andrian Soul, a conquered chief, having been 
 permitted to build a house, came to Radama to 
 ask him if he were obliged always to live in that 
 house, as he was fond of going about. Radama 
 replied, " O no; go where you like, and do 
 what you like, only that is your stated resi- 
 dence." " Very good, very good," said Andrian 
 Soul ; " I should like to go about. I have as 
 yet but very few wives : you (Radama) sent me 
 but ten women's cloths ; I hope that I am not 
 to be limited to that number of wives'?" " By 
 no means," answered Radama, " I prescribe no 
 limit; it depends entirely upon yourself and 
 the females that you seek." " But, in case of 
 my being refused, may I still command 1" asked 
 Audrian Soul. " No," replied Radama; " it is 
 not well to command on such occasions. Con- 
 ciliatory measures are much better, you know. 
 When you address a woman who is not pre- 
 engaged, and she and her parents consent, you 
 will not be subject to any difficulty ; but, should 
 any occur, Ramanetae will arrange all that." 
 " Very good, very good !" exclaimed the other : 
 " Oh ! that is very good indeed ! But how, as 
 to the married women?" " As to that," said Ra- 
 dama, gravely, " it is not a subject to address 
 me upon." And he added, with a little severity, 
 " when they are married they are married, and 
 are not fit objects to be sought after ; the laws 
 define all that." This was heard with a long- 
 drawn sigh by Andrian Soul; and Radama, 
 desirous of putting an end to such conversation, 
 proposed going out, where the chieftain's fol- 
 lowers were instructing some of his servants in 
 their mode of dancing. Andrian Soul's eyes 
 were open, and his ears too ; but he sat as if he 
 saw not, as if he heard not anything that passed 
 for a long time. He then retired at his usual 
 hour to pray. N.B. He is a Mahommedan. 
 
 At a lake near the river Mananiqtie the na- 
 tives catch fish in the following manner. They 
 make nooses, and attach them to a line which 
 is fastened to two poles sunk into the mud, 
 which poles are about twenty yards apart from 
 each other. When the nooses are prepared, the 
 fisherman withdraw quietly in their canoes, 
 and having remained tranquil a little time, at 
 the distance of about one hundred yards, they 
 commence beating the water with long bam- 
 boos, and so continue as they proceed, till they 
 return to their nooses, where they frequently 
 have to dispute with a Twyman (the alligator) 
 for their property, and sometimes lose both 
 fish and nooses. 
 
 When driving several herds of cattle across a 
 river, the soldiers were placed on both sides, 
 who kept up a constant fire of blank-cartridges 
 to intimidate the kaymans from attacking the 
 cattle. But such was their excessive fierceness 
 that they seized, in some droves three, in others 
 five, and in several more than ten, of the un- 
 fortunate bullocks. " Putting out of consider- 
 
 T 2 
 
276 
 
 ALLIGATORS MONK I. VS. 
 
 ation the losses thus sustained," Mr. JIastie 
 says, " it certainly was very interesting to ob- 
 serve a beast carried down by the alligators, 
 and speedily torn to pieces by the ravenous 
 monsters, many of which were soon seen near 
 the surface, throwing portions of their prey into 
 the air, and catching the same in their jaws, 
 previous to consuming it, which they did above 
 the water. The frequency of this occurrence, 
 under such circumstances, and in the presence 
 of almost constant firing, appeared strange. I 
 have often seen the kaymans bring out their 
 prey to the bank-side, and devour it there ; but 
 I have no reason to believe that they are inca- 
 pable of feeding under water ; yet, in a rapid 
 river, it is probable that they might be carried 
 down some distance when so employed ; and 
 their hunger and voracity, on seeing a plentiful 
 supply, may induce them to make unusual ex- 
 ertions to partake of it. When a bullock was 
 seized, thirty or forty kaymans were sometimes 
 seen about it, but I did not notice any instance 
 of one trying to take a piece from another. 
 Kadama's followers shot several, all of which 
 were carried down with the current. I re- 
 mained at the river till noon, and in the course 
 of that time killed seven that had crept up far 
 on the mud, at the bank-side, after having 
 satisfied themselves with beef. Some of those 
 were about sixteen feet in length ; and a boy 
 who accompanied me shot one that measured 
 twenty-three feet. The animal was not four 
 yards distant when he fired, and, the ball tra- 
 versing the back part of the head, it did not 
 make any exertion to get into the water. It 
 proved to be a female. The stomach, when 
 opened, was almost gorged with the raw beef 
 which she had devoured ; and, being near her 
 increasing season, not less than fifty-seven com- 
 plete eggs were taken out of her." Mr. 1 leni- 
 ence found an alligator's nest with sixty eggs in 
 it. The natives eat these, but do not esteem 
 them delicate food. 
 
 The solicitude of the monkey tribe for their 
 young has often been noticed. AVishing to get 
 a few dozen maki's (monkey) skins, I shot 
 several, and among them, unintentionally, 
 some females carrying their young ones. When 
 alarmed, they carefully conceal them under 
 their arms, and often place themselves in the 
 fork, or behind the branch of a tree, so that it 
 is not easy to see the young. I shot a female on 
 a very high branch, and when she had tumbled 
 within twenty feet of the ground she let fall a 
 cub, which happened to light on a bush very 
 near me. In this position it was seen by a 
 male maki, possibly the father, which immedi- 
 ately descended the tree, and, grasping the little 
 one, hastily regained his elevated post, and ac- 
 tually cried, as he looked down at the dying 
 mother, with which a second young one was dis- 
 covered, clinging close under her arm, whence it 
 was not disentangled without some trouble. I 
 shot another mother, the young one of which fell 
 to the ground, and immediately leaped upon one 
 of my dogs, that had long and soft hair a 
 bitch so very, docile and quiet that she did not 
 attempt to remove this strange companion, till 
 
 the latter attempted to get under her fore-leg. 
 Not being able to effect this, the little monkey 
 climbed on a branch of a tree, where it was 
 affectionately received by one of its own species. 
 
 The boys that followed me brought several 
 young makis (whose mothers had been shot) to 
 the camp. I took two of the largest, which I 
 found would eat the leaves of the sakoa-tree, 
 and placed them on some branches put up for 
 shade outside of my tent. But they instinct- 
 ively clung together, and each being desirous 
 of being carried by its comrade, as they had 
 been accustomed to be carried by their dams, 
 they constantly grappled in close quarters, and 
 fell to ,the ground, where they continued to 
 struggle, each trying to get under the arm of 
 the other, until they were separated. 
 
 AVe arrived at a small stream called Madudua, 
 running from a lake of that name, into which 
 the best assagai, or spear, of every person that 
 dies in the district, is thrown on the day of his 
 interment, as a certain mode of placing it at Ins 
 future command. 
 
 It may be worthy of remark that the word 
 r a/n'ny, or vaheen is the term tor a strc 
 Ovah, as it is the same in Boyana. But the 
 chieftains of the Sacalaves are averse that any 
 name or term should approach in sound either 
 the name of themselves or any part of their 
 family. Hence, when i' :mino<l that 
 
 the mother of Kntnratz, who came une\] 
 into the world, should be named /; 
 expresses dignity), it was forbidden that the 
 term ra/ii/tr/ should be applied to an\ ot: 
 son except herself; and the wop: 
 was instituted to denominate stranger. 
 similar causes the names of rivers pla< 
 things, have suffered so ma:. on the 
 
 western coast, that frequent confusion occurs ; 
 for, after being prohibited by their chieftain* 
 from applying any particular terms to the ac- 
 customed signification, the natnes will not 
 acknowledge to h:. '\vn them in their 
 
 former sense. Tins practice very much 
 hies the jealous monopoly of names by the 
 .nd -real chiefs of the i 
 
 \Ve arrived at the village of a very conse- 
 quential female Manjaka, called Kfntiin, who 
 on my requesting the attendance of her follow- 
 ers to procure supplies of ; 
 that I would first come and dance before her, in 
 acknowledgement of her superiority . 
 both drums and singing-women appendages 
 of rank, to the possession of which great honour 
 is attached in the Sacalave country. 
 
 Mr. Hastie found some bamboos, in 
 gascar, of great size, some joints being four feet 
 in length, and twenty inches in diameter, lie 
 shot a bullock eight hundred pounds in weight. 
 The flesh of the wild bull is hard, tough, ami 
 not savoury ; but that of the cow tender and 
 well flavoured. In the course of on- 
 journey he saw not fewer than six hundred 
 head of wild cattle. He remarks that those of 
 the people with him who used the lea- 1 
 tion suffered the most from fever. The wild 
 bulls scrape holes in the ground with their 
 feet, and then rub their horns in them, appa- 
 
A HUNTING PRAYER DOMESTIC ANIMALS IN MADAGASCAR. 
 
 277 
 
 rently in order to sharpen them, but perhaps 
 only in the rage of menace, for Mr. Hastie shot 
 one while thus engaged in preparation to attack 
 him. The grass among which they pasture is 
 sometimes ten feet high. In this, when the 
 wild cattle want to conceal themselves, they lie 
 down on their bellies, with their fore feet 
 under their nose, and their hind legs under 
 their belly ; if alarmed, they spring up in a 
 moment, and gallop off in a cloud that darkens 
 the face of the country in their course. A wild 
 bull, going at full speed, will turn in a 
 twentieth part of the space, and in a twentieth 
 part of the time, that a horse can. They are so 
 quick-scented that they can only be approached 
 from the leeward. The least noise, even the 
 falling of the branch of a tree, to the windward, 
 will frighten a whole herd away. 
 
 Kadama's army, while encamped in the dis- 
 trict of Sacaluvcs, was divided into parties to go 
 and hunt the wild bullocks. Agreeably to the 
 custom of the country, on the first herd being 
 seen, the party halted, laid down their arms, 
 with the muzzles of the guns and the points of 
 the spears turned to the rear ; and an aged 
 chieftain implored for success on the enterprise 
 in nearly the following terms : 
 
 " O thou great Rangoor ! master of these 
 superb plains and herds, be it knoAvn to thee 
 that the mighty king, Radama, attended by a 
 formidable army, is thy visitor ; and it will 
 only be consistent with thine own high dignity, 
 and his exalted rank as governor of the earth, a 
 king unequalled by any other king, that thou 
 sbouldest present him with a part of thy super- 
 abundant stock for the use of his attendants. 
 Be it known to thee, O Rangoor! that tin- 
 wants of the mighty king are bounded, but his 
 liberality is without bounds; he is slow in ac- 
 ( -rjiting, but lavish in bestowing favours. He 
 comes not in hostile array, but as thy visitor in 
 amity. O you, Coutafauts and Tailiaua ! 
 guardians of your great master's innumerable 
 Hocks, let it be your care to do him honour in 
 the selection of the presents that he may order 
 for the use of his royal visitor, so that we, his 
 attendants, may partake of such fare as will in- 
 duce us to make favourable representations of 
 your attention to our mighty king, and thereby 
 entitle you to his beneficent consideration. We 
 aLjain repeat, we are visitors in amity, and only 
 claim your hospitable entertainment during our 
 sojourn with you." 
 
 This supplication" being ended, we advanced 
 towards the herd of upwards of a thousand, &c. 
 
 I visited a settlement of vampire-bats, where 
 very many thousands of these creatures w r ere 
 clustered together. I killed a number before 
 any were cooked, when I was much disappointed 
 at finding them out of season and very lean. 
 The Sacalaves assert that these vampires do not 
 swallow anything solid, and say that they chew 
 the adoblahi and the vuwar ; also a species of 
 figs, with some other tender young fruit, and 
 the leaves of trees, but that they swallow the 
 juice only. 
 
 Tbe king's greyhounds took me a wild boar, 
 that had its eyes nearly in front of its head. 
 
 Under these were two deep indentures ; and, 
 within nine inches of the extremity of its snout, 
 two excrescences, of three inches each in length. 
 
 We often saw numerous flocks of guinea-fowls. 
 When disturbed, these birds run close together, 
 hold their heads high up, and stand so that se- 
 veral may be killed at a shot. 
 
 The Ovah (Tananarive) people became me- 
 lancholy when they have been a little time 
 absent from home. Many carry with them a 
 small parcel of their native soil, when going on 
 what they consider a long journey ; and they 
 frequently invoke the Almighty that they may 
 be permitted to restore it to the spot from whence 
 they took it. When on the road to return 1 to 
 their native place they are always very gay. 
 
 During the morning several small parties, 
 arriving from Ovah, met the troops on their 
 journey thither ; and the formality of relatives 
 meeting, touching noses, and the new comers 
 from the capital embracing the feet of the re- 
 turning soldiers, created much merriment ; but 
 little attention was paid to many of the newly- 
 arrived parties, who, learning of the death of 
 those they came to meet, commenced a violent 
 howling, and loosened and disordered their 
 hair. 
 
 The stock of sheep, pigs, and poultry, that 
 share the family bed, remove every apprehension 
 of want. The music of many milch cows, bel- 
 lowing for their calves, which are also the nightly 
 inmates of the mansion, and the barking of a 
 number of cur-dogs, to which the taste of flesh 
 meat is unknown, proclaim the possessor both 
 great and rich ; terms which were not long since 
 applied in this country to the owner of even a 
 single dollar ; and the individual that could 
 show one was often congratulated on the extent 
 of his wealth. 
 
 Mr. Hastie had introduced wheat, oats, and 
 barley into the country, and saw_small patches 
 of these growing luxuriantly. 
 
 The females (of the Sacalave country) are 
 very robust. They are largely formed about the 
 chest, and the lower part of the spine is remark- 
 ably prominent. Yet neither of these protuber- 
 ances produce so unsightly an appearance as 
 the ill shapes that distinguish the women of the 
 northern part of Bayana. Few of them are of 
 a complexion much removed from the Caffre- 
 colour. Their dress is often very slovenly and 
 disgusting. 
 
 N.B. Both these journeys were performed 
 northward from the capital (Tananarivo), and 
 the whole country either submitted to Radama 
 or was conquered, though he had but little 
 fighting. His army was so powerful, and the 
 manner of his proceeding so judicious and 
 humane, that all the tribes found it best to sub- 
 mit. He placed portions of his army at different 
 places, to keep his new subjects quiet, or to 
 protect them from freebooters. In every case 
 he required the people to surrender their arms 
 to him, as they would thenceforth not need them, 
 and as an inducement he gave their owners a fair 
 price for them. This was a stroke of wise policy. 
 
 The country in general is alternately hilly, 
 mountainous, or swampy and poor, though many 
 
278 
 
 CLIMATE OF MADAGASCAR ARRIVAL AT TAMATAVE. 
 
 places are rich in rice-grounds, pasturage, &c., 
 and much of the land is capable of extensive 
 cultivation. It is, however, very thinly peopled. 
 The houses of the inhabitants are wretched 
 hovels, being often made of the leaves of the 
 rofia-palm, stuck in the ground, meeting 'at the 
 top, and open at both ends. The best of them 
 are planked ; others, of a middling kind, are 
 wattled, and miserably thatched with grass. 
 
 Mr. Hastie gives no account of the geology of 
 the country. It appears generally well watered 
 by innumerable streams, rivers, and lakes, but 
 is in most parts bare of fine timber, in room of 
 which there is much long grass and underwood. 
 The fuel of the people is grass, moss, and cow- 
 dung ; in some places brushwood. Their food 
 is rice, sweet potatoes, manioc, (lathropamani- 
 hot) plantains, beef, wild fowls of the guinea 
 species, which are everywhere in great plenty, 
 fish, wild hogs, monkeys, &c. The wild cattle 
 are sometimes very large. One carcase loaded 
 seventeen men, and four more were required to 
 carry the fat and such of the intestines as they 
 used. 
 
 The range of the thermometer was from 52 a , 
 at sunrise, to 98 ; and the climate not good, as 
 very many of the soldiers fell ill, and not a few 
 died. Great numbers were left in sick quarters, 
 though they appear to have been well fed, and 
 well cared for by the king, who maintained a 
 rigid discipline, forbidding all plunder, and 
 punishing the slightest theft with death. He 
 held many cabaries (or public meetings), at 
 which he required the attendance of all his con- 
 quered or submitting subjects ; when, also, they 
 took the oath of allegiance or fidelity to him. 
 On these occasions he proclaimed himself King 
 of Madagascar, made known his laws, and the 
 terms of protection, which were submission, and 
 the payment of a tenth of their property. 1 !' 
 everywhere denounced most firmly against the 
 slave-trade, both in exportation and importation, 
 and punished either with death. Rain was not 
 frequent during the campaigns. They had oc- 
 casional lightning and thunder, and wind, but 
 nothing remarkable. Almost all the diseases of 
 the soldiery were fevers; and the king himself 
 returned home ill of one. There arc no regular 
 roads in the country, only occasionally a foot-track. 
 
 Radama sent twenty youths on board one of 
 our ships of war, and six on another, to learn 
 seamanship and other arts of civilized life. He 
 appears to have listened with much deference 
 to Mr. llastie's advice on many occasions, and 
 the latter seems to have acted with great wis- 
 dom and prudence. 
 
 CHAPTER LI. 
 
 \ Hnllock-ship arrives at the Mauritius The Deputa- 
 tion sail for Madagascar Arm cat Tamatave Proceed 
 towards Tauanarivo Various Circumstances and Inci- 
 dents l>y the Way Fortified Villages Tombs Arrival 
 .uul Reception at the Capital Death of the Kev. 
 Daniel Tver man Death of the Kini; of Madagascar 
 Missionaries' Letter to Mr. Henuel. 
 
 1828. June 20. HEARING that a bullock-trans- 
 port had arrived from Madagascar, we \\ent 
 down to see her; and, having no better alterna- 
 
 tive, engaged with the captain to take us with 
 him on his return. She is a stout brig of two 
 hundred tons burthen, and fitted solely for the 
 trade in which she is engaged. Nothing could 
 well exceed the filthiness and stench of the ves- 
 sel, being crowded with horned cattle in this 
 hot climate, and all restless after their voyage. 
 In landing them, a rope is put round the bot- 
 tom of the horns of each, when, by a clumsy 
 contrivance, it is hauled up by the neck, swung 
 over the side of the ship, and let down into the 
 water, to swim for its life till it reaches the 
 shore. Booms are placed on either flank of the 
 course which they are intended to take, about 
 twelve or fourteen feet apart to keep the herd 
 in line. The strong ones easily effect their 
 passage, but the young and the feeble are ac- 
 companied by men in a boat, to hold their 
 heads above water, and otherwise prevent them 
 from being drowned. Those which \\ 
 landed had had a stormy voyage of sixteen days 
 between the two islands 'and appeared very 
 lean and spiritless, though naturally lar 
 strong animals. Many had died on the j 
 The cost of bullocks being about five do. 
 head at Madagascar, and the selling price here 
 about forty dollars each, such cargoes often turn 
 out very profitable ventures. 
 
 July 3. We sailed from the Mauritius the 
 29th of June, and after an easy, but certainly 
 not a comfortable passage, arrived at Tamatave 
 this day. On entering the harbour we saw the 
 remains of a' vessel recently wrecked lying on 
 the reef. 
 
 [A few weeks after this, Mr. Bcnnet, on his 
 return from the interior, to re-embark for the 
 Mauritius, saw on the same reef the wreck >f 
 tho very vessel (the Meteor) which brought his 
 friend Sir. T\> rman and himself to Madagascar 
 at the date aforementioned. The ere 
 been saved.] 
 
 Immediately on landing, we were met by our 
 Missionary friend, Mr. Jones, who came from 
 the capital (Tananarive) thus far to escort us 
 thither. We found also a letter from the king, 
 waiting for our arrival, whereby ^ 
 corned to Madagascar, and invited to ; 
 ourselves at his court as early as might be coa- 
 venient. We were introduced to quar 
 the town, appointed, as Marshal Robin (a 
 French gentleman in the service of Rndama, 
 and holding the second rank in the state) in- 
 formed us, by express orders from the kini:, 
 who had sent with Mr. Jones a captain ami forty 
 soldiers to guard us to the capital. Directions 
 also had been issued, that the means of travel- 
 ling into the interior should be provided for 
 us from stage to stage; a circumstance of 
 advantage to strangers, in a country whei 
 are no roads. 
 
 Here the journal of the deputation must end : 
 the cause will appear in the sequel. Mr. 
 Tycrman and Mr. Sennet left Tamatave on the 
 f)th of July, and after a toilsome, painful, and 
 occasionally dangerous journe\, 1>\ land and 
 water, acrott lakes and rivers, through 
 and jungles, over mountains and plains, in- 
 
FORTIFIED VILLAGES IN MADAGASCAR SLAVERY IN MADAGASCAR. 279 
 
 eluding every variety of inland scenery, from the 
 wildest to the most cultivated that a country 
 emerging from barbarism could present they 
 arrived at Tananarive, the royal city, on the 
 21st of the same month at the distance of 
 nearly three hundred miles, in a south-west 
 direction, from the place where they had disem- 
 barked, which lies on the eastern coast, about 
 midway between the north and south points of 
 the island. All the way they were accompa- 
 nied by a guard of 40 native soldiers, appointed 
 by the king, besides a considerable number 
 (about sixty, varying according to circum- 
 stances) of hired carriers of their personal vehicles 
 (a kind of palanquins), their luggage, and some- 
 time s their canoes, when the latter were to be 
 transported over land from lake to lake, or 
 pushed along through shoals and straits. These 
 bearers were very moderately paid for their 
 I labour, three dollars satisfying each man for his 
 share; of sixteen days' hard work, and the jour- 
 ney I >ack again to their homes. Besides this, 
 a bullock was occasionally given them, which 
 they cooked so economically that they might be 
 said to eat it up whole, except the bones and 
 horns ; neither skin nor intestines escaping their 
 invincible teeth, or revolting their imperturbable 
 stomachs. 
 
 At the numerous villages through which they 
 passed, the deputation, as a matter of course, 
 (travelling as the king's friends and escorted by 
 his soldiers) took up their quarters at the house 
 of the chief man, who always supplied them with 
 a quantity of rice, a live bullock, or other pro- 
 visions ; expecting and receiving, as was due, 
 compensation in the form of presents, propor- 
 tionately valuable to himself, yet sufficiently 
 cheap for the travellers well to afford such ac- 
 knowledgements of his hospitality. In every 
 village they observed a wooden pole, termi- 
 nating in a fork on which were suspended from 
 one to ten pairs of bulluck's horns. These 
 weir memorials of the circumcision of so many 
 boys belonging to the principal inhabitants. 
 In the dwellings sometimes they had other re- 
 cords of births and marriages, namely, bullocks' 
 tails suspended from the ceilings, according to 
 the number of children. In their burying- 
 places, on the tombs or graves of their friends, 
 the survivors fixed, upon stones or posts, all the 
 horns of the bullocks slain at the feast of their 
 interment, which were according to the riches 
 of that kind in the family. 
 
 Many of the villages were fortified with 
 strong stockades and broad deep ditches. They, 
 as well as the large towns, are frequently built 
 on steep sides of the hills, and must have been 
 formidable positions to enemies so indifferently 
 supplied with engines of assault and destruc- 
 tion asi the people were till of late years. Their 
 intercourse, however, with Europeans for some 
 time past, and especially the extraordinary 
 means by which Radama has raised himself 
 above his rude predecessors, disciplined his 
 savage troops, and aggrandized his empire, 
 have rendered impotent, and, consequently, 
 obsolete, these wooden defences, which are 
 everywhere falling into decay. 
 
 As the travellers approached the capital these 
 petty fortresses were more frequent. In form- 
 ing such bulwarks nothing was more curious 
 than what might be called the gateway, which 
 consisted of a narrow entrance, between rough- 
 piled walls of crags and rocky fragments. The 
 door itself was a circular stone, like that em- 
 ployed by iron-tool-grinders, but of great bulk 
 and circumference, kept in its place between 
 two strong short pillars, planted before the 
 opening. In case of danger this stone was 
 used to be rolled in front of the entrance, which 
 it completely blocked up. This, which required 
 the force of a number of men to move and fix 
 in its portal, might be done within the village- 
 walls, where as many persons as were neces- 
 sary might approach it ; but, on the out- 
 side, the long passage to it, across the moat was 
 so strait, that not more than one at a time 
 could attempt to push it back, and thus effect 
 a breach. In these defenced places there are 
 folds for securing the cattle which are driven 
 every night, or when attack is apprehended, 
 into square pits five or six feet deep, and large 
 in proportion to the number to be accommo- 
 dated. Into these the herd descend and return 
 from them by a few steps ; and close upon the 
 entrance there is an inclosure which contains 
 their fodder. 
 
 There are many slaves in Madagascar. Cri- 
 minals of sundry descriptions are liable, with 
 their wives and children to be sold into bondage. 
 Their lot, however, is not particularly hard, as 
 they are employed entirely in ordinary and do- 
 mestic occupations ; and are, in reality, mere 
 menial servants and labourers eating, drink- 
 ing, and living with their owners while they 
 conduct themselves well ; when they do other- 
 wise, they are sold out of the family as a punish- 
 ment! Thirty or forty dollars are common 
 prices for good men-slaves. It has already 
 been intimated that formerly there was a very 
 extensive traffic carried on in these live com- 
 modities between Madagascar and the Mauri- 
 tius (just on the same principle as the trade 
 now carried on in bullocks between the same is- 
 lands), which was abolished several years since 
 by Radama, in compliance with a treaty nego- 
 ciated by the late Mr. Hastie and the colonial 
 authorities at Port Louis on behalf of the Bri- 
 tish government. 
 
 The animals most abounding in Madagascar 
 are horned cattle, which indeed are very numer- 
 ous and very fine, furnishing inexhaustible 
 wealth and food for the population. All these 
 have bunches of flesh on their shoulders, which 
 on the bulls are exceedingly large ; indeed, the 
 latter are often very noble beasts. Hogs also, 
 and poultry, are bred, but less generally regard- 
 ed. In some parts the flesh of alligators is 
 eaten, but in others it is held in abhorrence. 
 These enormous reptiles swarm in all the waters, 
 and prey on whatever in the form of life comes 
 in their way. Dogs and cats are also domesti- 
 cated, though not particularly esteemed. Some 
 of the former are said to be so sagacious, that 
 when one has occasion to cross a river he will 
 stand barking on the bank considerably lower 
 
280 
 
 DIFFICULTIES AND PERILS OF THE JOIRM-Y INLAND. 
 
 down than the point where he means to attempt 
 his passage. When the alligators have been 
 attracted to the former spot, away he runs full 
 bpeed, plunges into the stream at a safe distance 
 and swims over before the enemy can sail back 
 against the current to interrupt him. But, of 
 all creatures in Madagascar,to strangers the rats 
 are the most annoying, especially in the night, 
 when, like other beasts of prey, they leave their 
 holes and prowl about in myriads. Messrs. 
 Tyerman and Bennet, when they lodged in 
 native houses, usually kept their walking-sticks 
 at their sides as they lay upon their couches, to 
 repel the assaults of these impudent and blood- 
 thirsty marauders, who would have made little 
 ceremony of applying their teeth to the unpro- 
 tected person of a sound sleeper. Monkeys of 
 many kinds abound in the woods. 
 
 As the travellers advanced inland, the face 
 of the country rose progressively, though their 
 way often lay down steep eminences as well as 
 up them ; but after the first few stages the 
 ground was always on the ascent, and towards 
 the capital the height of many of the mountains 
 above the sea was calculated at from eight to 
 nine thousand feet. The forests in many dis- 
 tricts were extensive, often exceedingly crowded 
 with trees so as to cramp their general growth, 
 though some of them were of great antiquity 
 and proportioned magnitude ; and being inac- 
 cessible to the axe, or, for want of roads, irre- 
 moveable from their place, they flourished and 
 declined till they fell with nge, and where they 
 fell they must lie till they perished with rot and 
 exposure to the elements. ; Lakes, rivers, and 
 streams, of every character, render the valleys 
 and plains of Madagascar fertile and cool in all 
 directions. Probably no country in the world 
 is better supplied with water, that prime element 
 of comfort. The sight and sound of it every- 
 where delight the eye and rar. 
 
 The trackless course which they were com- 
 pelled to take Radama from shrewd policy 
 choosing to keep his country without the irivat 
 facilities for commercial intercourse and 
 ling made the journey (slow as it necessarily 
 was) \cry fatiguing to Messrs. Tyerman and 
 Benuet, though accustomed as they had long 
 been to all kinds of locomotion by sea and 
 land, over 'two-thirds of the globe ; Mr. Tyer- 
 man, especially, failed and grew dispirited by 
 the way. On the l(!th of July he observes, in 
 the rough notes of his journal : " The difficulties 
 of this day's journey surpassed anything that 
 we have ever encountered before, and the exer- 
 tions which our bearers were compelled to make 
 \\ ei -e great indeed. The whole distance was 
 either up or down the most horrid declivities, 
 exceedingly steep, and the men were forced to 
 haul themselves up by laying hold of the roots 
 or branches of trees. The road, too, was full of 
 deep holes,, and the poor fellows were fre- 
 quently knee-deep in the mire. In some places 
 the line of progress was so abrupt, or so slip- 
 pery, that we were obliged to descend from our 
 vehicles, and scramble alonir :is well as we 
 could with two or three attendants to hold us 
 up and help us do\\n. These obstael 
 
 not a little increased by the interposing and 
 intertwisted boughs of trees, or their fallen 
 stems lying across the path. These nobody 
 ever attempts to remove or clear away, though 
 little trouble, in many instances would do it. 
 But thus it is, so far as we have seen, through- 
 out the whole heathen world. No one does 
 anything to benefit another, nor even to benefit 
 himself remotely, unless he is commanded by 
 authority which he dare not dispute. The toils 
 and pains of our companions all this day, but 
 especially in the afternoon, were most extra- 
 ordinary, and deserved our sincerest gratitude. 
 Nor were labour, suffering, and patient perse- 
 verance, all that was required of them or of 
 ourselves. We were often in imminent danger 
 of being precipitated down the most IV 
 descents, whether we were climbing or cle 
 ing ; and to us it required no little nerve, from 
 our high-raised seats, rocking to and fro on the 
 shoulders of men to look down into the a' 
 now on the right hand, now on the left, here 
 in front and there behind us. In one awkward 
 strait, I (Mr. Tyennan) was tumbled headlong 
 and full-length into a brook, in con>equ 
 the feet of all the bearers slipping at once from 
 under them as they were crossing the stream. 
 Through a gracious Providence I sustained no 
 injury; but had a similar accident befallen me 
 in almost any other situation on our route it 
 niiirht have been attended by the most serious 
 consequences. Indeed we could scare* 
 solve our safe arrival at our evening encamp- 
 ment (which was made in the open forest, no 
 village being nigh) into anything but the merci- 
 ful preservation of a superintending power that 
 kept us by the way. The retrospect of the 
 journey is appalling, and no description can 
 give an adequate idea of it. In the morning 
 we had passed a place where a body of rebels 
 against Radama having been surrounded and 
 captured, sixty of them were beheaded on the 
 spot, and their corpses left to be devoured hy 
 dogs, or to rot on the ground without burial. 
 When Mr. Jones passed this way, three months 
 ago, the air was intolerable with the putrid ex- 
 halations. A little further on we were under 
 the necessity of alighting from our cou< 
 climb over a barrier of trees, which ha I 
 felled on a steep mountain, by the rebels afore- 
 said, to prevent the advance of the kind's troops 
 upon them ; but they were taken 1 
 
 Two days after this disheartening day's jour- 
 ney (during which interval the horrors of the 
 road had been somewhat less), at the village 
 of Amboodingavoo, the Deputation received 
 intelligence that Radama had been sei/.ed by 
 sudden and dangerous illness, and that, in 
 case of his decease, a bloody revolution to deter- 
 mine the future sovereignty of the island might 
 be expected. This communication made a sad 
 impression upon the nerves of Mr. Tyerman, in 
 his wearied and morbid frame of body and 
 mind. Mr. Bennet says that he never recovered 
 from the shock never smiled afterwards. The 
 tiding were brought by one of the Missionaries 
 from Tananarive, who had kindly come thus tar 
 to meet the iK putation, and after the con-ulta- 
 
ARRIVAL AT TANANARIYO DEATH OF THE REV. D. TYERMAN. 281 
 
 t ion which they held with the latter and Mr. 
 Jones, to resolve what was best to he done, 
 either immediately or prospectively, hi such a 
 crisis of affairs, Mr. Tyerman took Mr. Bennet 
 aside, and strongly urged the duty of returning 
 forthwith to the coast : otherwise, should the 
 king die, their lives would he in the most immi- 
 nent peril, and they could never hope to escape 
 out of that dreadful country. It was a difficult 
 matter to persuade him of the imprudence and 
 impracticability of such a step. He yielded, 
 however, and they accomplished their journey. 
 In the immediate neighbourhood of the 
 capital tombs are very numerous. Among 
 those there are many erected in honour of the 
 slain in battle, or those who have otherwise 
 perished, and whose bodies have not been 
 found by their relatives. These are oblong 
 stone structures, and variously adorned, but 
 always open towards the west ; while at the 
 contrary end a pole, eight or ten feet high, 
 bearing a flag, is placed, and on a second post, 
 with a transverse beam at top, are displayed the 
 horns of the bullocks slaughtered at tlae time of 
 the funeral ceremony, which is always perform- 
 ed notwithstanding the absence of the corpse. 
 Some of these untenanted sepulchres are of a 
 semicircular form, with the bullock's horns, 
 forming a border of points, built into the cor- 
 nice of the wall. Within this segment there 
 are fixed enormous stones, from twelve to fifteen 
 feet high ; around which, in the open space, the 
 spirits of the deceased are said to come and 
 
 On the arrival of Messrs. Tyerman and Bcn- 
 net at the last stage on their journey to Tanana- 
 rive, two aides de camp from Radama brought 
 them a message, that his Majesty had sent a 
 horse for each of them, recommending that they 
 should ride upon the same up the steep hill, 
 leading to the metropolis and through the city, 
 according to the usage with persons who were 
 received as royal guests, in which capacity the 
 king had acknowledged them from the hour of 
 their landing. Accordingly they quitted their 
 couches and mounted these steeds, which were 
 spirited and beautiful animals, under a dis- 
 charge of twelve pieces of cannon, to welcome 
 them to Tananarive. Thousands of people 
 li:i .->d the road to see and hail the strangers ; 
 but all behaved with the utmost decorum. The 
 Missionaries and European artizanshad already 
 met the Deputation; and_also Mons. le Gros, 
 the French architect, who was employed in 
 building a stately palace for Radama. About 
 five o'clock in the evening they alighted at the 
 house of Mr. Jones, which they had scarcely 
 entered when another message was brought 
 i'roin the king, expressing his great concern that 
 on account of his severe indisposition, he could 
 not see them that day. His Majesty, however, 
 sent them a present of several bundles of fire- 
 wood and a supply of fresh provisions, consisting 
 of a sheep, a turkey, two geese, a pair of ducks, 
 and four couples of fowls, with a basket of eggs. 
 Soon afterwards Prince Correllere, who acted 
 as the king's secretary and prime minister, 
 Availed upon the Deputation, by the express 
 
 command of Radama ; in his name, to congra- 
 tulate them on their safe arrival in Madagascar, 
 and to assure them of his Majesty's favour and 
 protection during their stay in his dominions. 
 The commander-in-chief of the forces, General 
 Brady, likewise paid them an official and 
 friendly visit. 
 
 The documents that follow will show the cir- 
 cumstances which ensued upon the arrival of 
 the Deputation at Tananarive, on the 21st of 
 July, 1828. At the close of some minutes of 
 the events of that day, Mr. Tyerman entered the 
 following record of mercies experienced up to 
 its last hour : '< Hitherto the Lord hath helped 
 us. Oh! what gratitude we owe to God for 
 preserving us from all accidents during so long 
 and dangerous a journey, and allowing us to 
 reach this city in the enjoyment of the best 
 health, after traversing a country which, at 
 certain seasons, is so subject to fevers and dis- 
 ease. We are in the heart of this heathen land, 
 but under the kind protecting wing of its sove- 
 reign. Oh, for a heart more grateful for favours 
 so many and great ! To God be all the glory !" 
 
 On the ninth day after this date, July 30, 
 Mr. Tyerman expired suddenly. Within the 
 same brief interval King Radama also died, 
 though the precise time of his decease was not 
 immediately made public. The fact; itself was 
 kept secret till a struggle between the claimants 
 within the palace for the succession to the 
 throne had been decided ; not without blood- 
 shed. The conflict ended in the accession of the 
 youngest queen ^of 'Radama's father (the for- 
 mer king), Ranavalona Manjaka, to his autho- 
 rity, by the aid of the priests and the soldiers. 
 The resident Missionaries, after the interment 
 of Mr. Tyerman, addressed the following letter 
 to Mr. Bennet, as an official statement of the 
 circumstances under which the Deputation had 
 been invited to visit Madagascar, and the 
 lamentable events which had intervened since 
 their landing. 
 
 Tananarive, IHli Aug. 1828. 
 To GEORGE BENNET, Esq. -, , 
 
 Dear Sir, and highly-esteemed Friend, 
 
 Having been requested by you to draw up, 
 for the satisfaction of friends, a brief account of 
 the afflicting event of the decease of our much 
 respected and beloved father and friend, the 
 late Rev. Daniel Tyerman, we submit the fol- 
 lowing, as an outline of the principal circum- 
 stances of the case. 
 
 Convinced that important benefit would result 
 to this Mission, from a personal inspection, by 
 the Deputation, of the several departments of 
 labour, and by the advice and counsel they were 
 qualified to afford, we felt it our duty to urge a 
 visit to this capital, and embraced the earliest 
 opportunity of transmitting to you all the infor- 
 mation in'our power respecting the best season, 
 and most suitable mode of travelling in Mada- 
 gascar. And we still cherish the hope that, by 
 precautions suggested, and arrangements made, 
 our valued but departed friend as well as your- 
 self was preserved from the diseases and dan- 
 gers peculiarly incident to this climate. 
 
 -it ." I 
 
MISSIONARIES' LETTER TO MR. BENNET. 
 
 Our senior Missionary, the Rev. D. Jones, in 
 order to facilitate the journey in prospect, left 
 this capital for Tamatave early in May ; and by 
 the measures adopted, in providing bearers, 
 provisions on the road, &c., enabled you, our 
 expected friends, to proceed towards the interior 
 of the country without any detention on the 
 coast. Owing to the heavy rains which had 
 lately fallen, you could not have commenced 
 your journey sooner, even had you arrived at an 
 earlier period than you did. 
 
 On the evening of 19th July, you received the 
 intelligence of the illness of his Majesty, Rada- 
 ma, by which Mr. Tyermaii appeared consider- 
 ably affected ; and on the afternoon of Monday, 
 July 21, you both reached this place. That you 
 would have been cordially welcomed by his 
 Majesty to his capital, had he been in health, 
 we know from the remarks he had often made 
 in reference to your coming, and from the vari- 
 ous marks of attention he ordered to be paid 
 you on your arrival. 
 
 On reaching this city our deceased friend 
 several times complained of cold, and said ho 
 felt the climate to be very different from any lie 
 had ever before experienced. Viewing all cir- 
 cumstances, we do not wonder that Mr. T. should 
 have been anxious to go over the business of the 
 Mission without delay, and prepare for his return 
 to the Mauritius. Devoted to the work before 
 him, he attended two evenings, though unable 
 to sit up, to the affairs of the Mission, so far as 
 his strength allowed. 
 
 Immediately on the arrival of our lamented 
 friend, suitable medicines were administered, 
 particularly with the view of keeping the bowels 
 in a healthy state; this, however, was rather a 
 precautionary measure, than dietated by any 
 indications of actual disease. Our dear friend 
 complained of an entire prostration of stn nu'th, 
 and compared his weakness with that of infancy. 
 He was restless) several nights, and remarked 
 that he could not compose his thoughts suffi- 
 ciently for sleep. Yet there was scarcely any 
 acceleration of pulse, no pain whatever was felt, 
 and none of the symptoms of Madagascar fever 
 could be perceived. 
 
 On Tuesday, July 22, (the day after your arri- 
 val) Mr. T. with yourself, called on the several 
 members of the Mission-family, and afterwards 
 went to the Missionary chapel. He attended 
 the next morning, and on Thursday afternoon, 
 when some senior scholars were examined in 
 their theological knowledge. Sabbath morning, 
 July 27, he attended public worship, but was 
 too indisposed to take any part in it, and re- 
 turned home unwell ; still complaining only of 
 weakness. On Wednesday, the 30th, he had 
 intended accompanying Mr. Jones, to visit some 
 of the schools in the neighbouring villages, while 
 you were visiting others with Mr. Griffiths ; but 
 not feeling adequate to the effort, merely took a 
 ride a short, distance in a palanquin, and felt 
 able to converse and ask questions during the 
 exercise, both going and returning. But soon 
 after reaching the house of Mr. Jones h< 
 so obviously and alarmingly ill that theMisMon- 
 arics were requested by you to meet ; with 
 
 yourself, they could entertain but one oj. 
 the symptoms were those of apoplexy : one 
 course alone remained to be pursued, to take 
 immediately a quantity of blood. This was 
 promptly done and a blister applied. During 
 the application of the latter Mr. T. fainted, was 
 gently placed on pillows, and in a few moments, 
 while we stoofl, with yourself, gazing on him 
 with feelings not to be described, the spirit tied 
 without a groan or sigh, or struggle. 
 
 Owing to his debility, he had not been able 
 to converse much with those about him. The 
 last words which could be understood, as tiny 
 escaped his lips, were, " All is riyld ; the cove- 
 nant, the covenant of grace /" We knou- in 
 whom he had believed, and you are able 
 testimony how he served the cause of 1 
 deemer. But, in the midst of his labours, he 
 has been summoned to his rest. He has departed, 
 and is now with Christ, and triumphs in the 
 eternal gain. 
 
 II. Lyall, Esq. (a gentleman well acquainted 
 with medical science, and who arrived 1 
 day after Mr. T.'s decease, in tin- 
 British Agent at the Court of Radama), > 
 formed of the circumstances, and kimK 
 sented to our request of seeing the 
 immediately assured us, and for the satisfac- 
 tion of friends wished it to be distinctly stated, 
 that what had been done for the <i 
 most proper that the case was evidently apo- 
 ple\\ that he was so sure of this as to ! 
 unnecessary to examine any further, which el>e 
 he would have done that the cause lay in the 
 very form ;and construction of the d". 
 (whom he^had frequently seen in the Mauritius) 
 that the fatigue of journeying might 
 as a secondary cause, but this was not to be 
 attributed to any peculiarity of the c 
 gascar, for the same event might, with equal 
 probability, have occurred at any time, and in 
 any place, of our friend's travels. 
 
 Arrangements were now made for tl: 
 ment, which, so far as the means of the country 
 would permit, we were all anxious should bear 
 those marks of respect we sincerely entertained 
 for the departed, and which we knew his friends 
 at home, and the Society on whose behalf he 
 acted, would wish paid to the memory of one 
 who will long live in the affection and respect 
 of all who knew him. 
 
 Friday, August the 1st, was appointed for the 
 funeral. All the members of t -family 
 
 attended; yourself, the chief mourner ; ( 
 Biady, and Mons. Le Gros, and a great body of 
 the natives. II. Lyall, Esq. apologized for 
 absence, being uuder the necessity of returning 
 to some distance from the capital to meet his 
 family. Prince Correllere was prevented from 
 being present by being unexpectedly made a 
 state prisoner just previous to the hour of the 
 funeral. Many more of the natives, among them 
 those in office, would, we well knov. 
 attended but for the melancholy 
 
 of their monarch; an event of painful 
 coincidence with the departure of tl 
 We -will {not attempt to describe to you how 
 deeply we feel for the public loss, and our own. 
 
FUNERAL OF KING RADAMA. 
 
 283 
 
 sustained by the death of the sovereign of this 
 island ; a man who had always shown himself 
 alive to our object, the warm patron of our 
 schools ; in fact, the father of his country. 
 
 Leaving the house of Mr. Jones, the body was 
 conveyed first to the chapel, where the Rev. 
 Mr. Griffiths and Jones officiated, in Malagasy 
 and English ; and from thence to the grave, 
 where the Rev. D. Jones delivered an address 
 and closed in prayer in Malagasy, in the pre- 
 sence of a great concourse of natives. In the 
 burial-ground a spot was selected for the mortal 
 remains of our friend, near the graves of three 
 who had fallen in the service of the Missionary 
 Society. In life he had associated with the 
 friends of Missions, and in death he is not 
 divided. It is intended to inclose the spot 
 with suitable railing, with a simple tablet and 
 an appropriate inscription. 
 
 In consequence of the extraordinary aspect of 
 public affairs, and the thronging of the people to 
 the kabarre, held on the Sunday following the 
 interment, on occasion of the death of the king, 
 it was considered most prudent to suspend the 
 regular service at the chapel ; but on Sabbath, 
 1.7th August, funeral discourses will be preached 
 in the Missionary chapel, in Malagasy, by the 
 Rev. D. Griffiths ; and, in English, by the Rev. 
 J. J. Freeman. 
 
 At your request, all the linen, the papers, &c., 
 brought here by Mr.T.,we have carefully packed ; 
 an inventory of which we have put into your 
 hands. 
 
 In closing this rapid sketch of the painful 
 event, we cannot avoid embracing the opportu- 
 nity of assuring you how deeply we sympathise 
 with the family and friends of the deceased, 
 with the Society whose representative he ap- 
 peared among us, and particularly with yourself 
 the friend and companion of his labours. You 
 have lost one with^whom you cheerfully associ- 
 ated in the great work you had mutually under- 
 taken. From all we saw of the departed, in his 
 letters, and in the few personal interviews we 
 enjoyed with ^him, it is but due to him and 
 yourself to assure you how completely he had 
 secured our confidence, our affection, and our 
 respect. We still solicit of you, dear sir, to 
 afford us all the advice and aid you can render 
 us in our Mission, and accept our sincere thanks 
 for all the kind interest you have already ex- 
 pressed in our prosperity. We earnestly hope 
 and pray you may continue under the protection 
 of the Almighty, may be permitted to reach 
 home safely, may aid extensively in promoting 
 the kingdom of the Saviour among men, and 
 at last receive the crown of life. We remain, 
 Dear Sir, with unfeigned affection and respect, 
 Yours, in the service of the gospel, D. Jones. 
 D. Griffiths. D. Johns. J. J. Freeman. 
 
 CHAPTER LII. 
 
 Funeral of Kin-,' Rjidama Abstract of a Letter from Mr. 
 Jifiiuet, the sunning Deputy, to James Montgomery, 
 ^'ivin- a lirief Account of the Proceedings after the 
 Death of Mr. Tyennaii, his Return to the Mauritius, 
 his Vi.sit to South Africa, and his Voyage Home. 
 
 1828. THE following account of the funeral of 
 
 Radama, by George Bennet, Esq., the surviving 
 Deputy of the London Missionary Society, pre- 
 sents one of the most remarkable displays of 
 barbarous magnificence oil record in modern 
 times. 
 
 The death of Radama took place at this capi- 
 tal, Tananarive, during the period of my visit 
 there, and three days previous to the sudden 
 and lamented decease of my late companion and 
 friend, the Rev. Daniel Tyerman. 
 
 The king was dangerously indisposed when we 
 reached Tananarive : but we received from him, 
 by Prince Correllere, the chief secretary, a most 
 obliging letter, welcoming us to his capital, and 
 expressing his regret that he could not, on ac- 
 count of his illness, have us to dine with him on 
 the day of our arrival. This letter was, we be- 
 lieve, the [last that he dictated. We had pre- 
 viously received two very kind letters from his 
 Majesty; one met us on our arrival atTamatave, 
 on the coast, where the king had appointed us 
 a house in the fort, and a place at the governor's 
 table ; the second we received when about half 
 way through this dreadful but beautiful country ; 
 it congratulated us on our progress, and invited 
 us forward. 
 
 His Majesty died on Sunday evening, the 27th 
 July, 1828, but his death was concealed from all, 
 except about twelve persons who were in the 
 palace, until the morning of the Friday follow- 
 ing, when all became consternation and alarm 
 throughout the city, which was now literally 
 crowded with chiefs and people from many of 
 the neighbouring districts, and with a great body 
 of military, who had been summoned in the 
 king's name, and who were principally encamped 
 around it. At daylight, on the morning afore- 
 said, it became known that Radama was dead. 
 It was also known, at the same time, that four 
 of the principal chiefs had been speared in the 
 palace, for expressing a wish that Rakatobe, the 
 son of Prince Rataffe and Radama's eldest sister, 
 should succeed to the throne ; or otherwise that 
 Radama's young daughter should be placed upon 
 it. This was the morning fixed upon for the 
 interment of the remains of my late friend. 
 
 The impression on the minds of all the Mis- 
 sionaries and the other Europeans, was that of 
 extreme alarm, they having also learned that 
 other important lives had been taken away by 
 those now in power. 
 
 Guards of soldiers were placed round all the 
 houses of the Missionaries. We were relieved, 
 however, from immediate apprehension by a 
 friendly message from the new queen, Ranava- 
 lona Manjaka, brought to us by General Brady, 
 when he came to attend the funeral of Mr. 
 Tyerman. Afterwards the same communica- 
 tion was made to us in writing, from the queen, 
 and brought by the judges, attended by the 
 magistrates. The message and note were to 
 this effect : " You Missionaries, and all you 
 white persons, do not be afraid, though you 
 have heard that four of the principal chiefs were 
 speared in the palace this morning. It is true 
 that they were put to death : but it was only 
 because they opposed my being queen, that 
 was all. Don't you fear; for thus saith Rana- 
 
284 
 
 FUNERAL OF KING RADAMA. 
 
 valona Miinjaka I will protect you, I will 
 cherish you, and whatever Radama did fur you 
 that, will I do, and still more. _ So do not be 
 afraid." 
 
 The principal military officers and the judges 
 came to the Missionaries to assure them of their 
 esteem for them, and that they would protect 
 them. These assurances could not, however, 
 calm the feelings of the Europeans, for we con- 
 tinually heard in whispers, or learned by signs, 
 of other murders of persons most estimable and 
 most enlightened. It was the reign of terror 
 and of suspicion: no one dared to ask questions 
 ri"-ne<-ting the events which were taking place. 
 No one was allowed to leave the city until the 
 queen herself gave permission. I was thus a 
 prisoner there until the 20th of August, not- 
 withstanding my urgent applications to be al- 
 lowed to depart. Until that time she only 
 replied to my requests " I am mistress of the 
 da\ when you may leave Tananarive, and when 
 tin- day N conic I will inform you of it." On 
 tin- 20th she sent Prince Correllere to say that 
 I might leave the capital the day after, and 
 seven hundred troops which she was sending to 
 Taniatave should he my ttfcgoud thither. 
 
 On Sunday, the third day after the announce- 
 ment of the death of Radama, (August 4), there 
 .was a large kabarre, or national assembly, held 
 in a iinc open space in the city, on \'. 
 side of the hill on which T:manari\o stands. 
 In this space were assembled from 25 to 30,000 
 persons, seated in groups, according to the dis- 
 tricts to which they belonged. The judges, 
 officers of the palace, and chief military officers, 
 were seated on a rising part of the ground, in 
 the assembly, having an open space around 
 them. Two companies of soldiers, with their 
 officers, well dressed in British uniforms, with 
 arms and accoutrements, were drawn up at tin- 
 back of the judges, &c. A little above them, 
 on a higher part of the ground, were planted 
 five small brass field-pieces, loaded, and ha\ ing 
 their proper attendants ; and round the city, at 
 intervals, were placed many cannon, of various 
 calibre, from six to twenty-four pounders, with 
 attendant soldiers. This assembly was called a 
 kaharre, or parliament. At this kabarre, the 
 kind's death befog again stated, the chief judge 
 declared that as the king had died without hav- 
 ing a son, and without having named his suc- 
 cessor, that therefore Ranavalona, one of the 
 queens of the father of Radama, must be sove- 
 reign, because of the word of that king, which 
 ho spake just before he died. The judge con- 
 cluded by stating: that this kabarre had been 
 convened for the purpose of their all swearing 
 allegiance to Ranavalona Manjaka, the queen. 
 For some time great murmurs of discontent 
 were heard throughout the assembly, and we 
 feared the consequences; but tranquillity was 
 sixain restored. The chiefs of districts, it seems, 
 had been loudly blaming those who had been 
 in the palace about Radama, first, for having 
 
 (1 to make them acquainted with the 
 kind's sickness until alter he was dead; ami 
 M-romlh. I'm- not ha\ing called in the Missimi- 
 
 :;i\e medicines, and to cure the king, as 
 
 they did once before, when he was almost dead- 
 The officers of the palace promised to be more 
 careful in future, and all agreed that the oath 
 should be administered. 
 
 The manner of this oath of allegiance to the 
 queen was quite peculiar to this country. A calf 
 was slaughtered in the midst of the assembly. 
 It was first speared then its head cut off 
 afterwards the hind parts were cut off and placed 
 towards the other extremity of the carcase, and 
 the head where the tail had been. Into the 
 carcase were plunged a considerable number of 
 spears. The chief judge then stood up, and 
 called, first the chiefs of the principal district, 
 who, standing around the slaughtered calf, each 
 seized hold of one of the spears, while the jndire, 
 with much vehemence of action and language, 
 administered the oath, which consisted of a de- 
 claration of allegiance, and an imprecation on 
 him that fulfilled not this oath, wishing that ho 
 might become like that calf. Each then moved 
 one of the spears in the carcase, in confirmation 
 of the words which had been spoken. Then 
 the chiefs of each of the other districts in suc- 
 < ion took the oath ; afterwards, in tin 
 manner, the officers of the royal palace, the mili- 
 tary staff, and, lastly, the judges. 
 
 At the close of this kabarre it was proclaimed 
 that, according to the custom of the com 
 a token of mourning, every person in tin 
 dom, of every age, must shave or cut oil' > 
 the hair of their heads, and whosoever should be 
 found with their heads uns 1 r three 
 
 days from the proclamation, should be liable to 
 be put to death. Also, that no person K 
 ever should do any kind of work (except those 
 who should be employed in preparing tl 
 tomb, coffin, &c.) ; no one should presi 
 sleep upon a bed, but on the floor only, during 
 the time of mourning. No woman, 1. 
 high her rank, the queen only c\ecpted, should 
 wear her " lamba," or cloth, above her 
 ders, but must, during the same 
 always with her shoulders, chest, and head un- 
 d. 
 
 This command for cutting off the hair < 
 great lamentation amongst both men and women, 
 for their beautiful profusion of black hair, plaited 
 in a most peculiar way, and with immense labour, 
 was quite their delight and pride. 
 
 During the interval between this Sunday and 
 the 12th inst., the mournfully silent ap|n 
 of the city, though tens of thousands of persons 
 were constantly crowding through the streets 
 some dragging huge pieces of granite, or beams 
 of timber, or carrying red earth in baskets on 
 their heads, for the construction of the tomb ; 
 others, and those chiefly females, going with 
 naked heads and shoulders, to the palace to 
 mourn, or else returning from that place after 
 staying there as mourners perhaps twelve hours, 
 was exceedingly impressive. The air of deep 
 melancholy on the countenances of all, and the 
 audible meanings of the multitudes who filled 
 the courts of the palace and the adjoining ( 
 quite affected us, and produced the comictii-n 
 that the grief was real and deep, for one whom 
 they regarded as their benefactor and friend. 
 
FUNERAL OF KING RADAMA. 
 
 285 
 
 and as the best king that Madagascar had ever 
 known. The wives of the principal chiefs from 
 the neighbouring districts were carried to and 
 from the place of mourning, each on the back 
 of a stout man, just in the manner boys at school 
 are accustomed to carry one another : the lady 
 having her person, from the waist to the feet, 
 covered with her white lamba or cloth. 
 
 On Sunday, the llth, her Majesty sent to us 
 to say that we might be present the day after, 
 to assist at the funeral ceremonies ; and that 
 General Brady would, at eight, a.m., receive us 
 at his house, and conduct us to the palace. 
 
 Accordingly, at eight, on the 12th, we attend- 
 ed, when General Brady and Prince Correllere 
 conducted us through the crowded streets of 
 mourners, through the guards of soldiers, and 
 through the still more crowded courts of the 
 palace, which were thronged chiefly by women 
 and girls, couched down, or prostrate in many 
 instances, making audible lamentations. 
 
 There are several courts, with one or more 
 palaces in each, separated from each other by 
 high wooden railing; and the whole of the 
 courts and palaces are surrounded by a heavy 
 railing of great height, twenty-five feet, includ- 
 ing a dwarf stone wall on which the wooden 
 railing is fixed. The whole extent of this rail- 
 ing was covered with white cloth, as were also 
 the oldest and most sacred of the palaces. The 
 favourite palace of lladama, in Which he died, 
 and where in fact the body then lay. is called 
 tin- S/fver Palace: it is a square building, of 
 two floors, and two handsome verandahs run- 
 ning round it. 
 
 This palace is named the Silver Palace, on 
 account of its being ornamented, from the 
 ground to the roof, by a profusion of large flat- 
 silvi-r nails, and plates of the same 
 metal. The roof of this palace (as indeed of 
 all the principal houses), a very high pitched 
 roof, is so high, that from the top of the wall to 
 the ridge is as great a distance as from the foun- 
 dation to the top of the wall supporting the roof. 
 
 We found it covered from the roof to the 
 ground with hangings of rich satins, velvets, 
 silks, their native costly silk Iambus, &c. ; and 
 all the vast roof was covered with the finest 
 English scarlet broad cloth. 
 
 In front of this palace had been erected a 
 most splendid pavilion, surrounded by highly- 
 decorated pillars, which were wrapped round 
 with various coloured silks, satins, &c. The 
 pavilion was ten feet square, raised on pillars, 
 also richly ornamented. A platform of wood 
 was thrown over upon the pillars ; and above 
 this platform hung, supported by one transverse 
 pole, an immense canopy, or pall, of the richest 
 gold brocade, with stripes of blue satin and 
 scarlet cloth ; the whole bordered by a broad 
 gold lace, and finished by a deep gold fringe. 
 All the arrangements were in good taste, and 
 formed together a most brilliant spectacle. 
 
 We had nearly reached the Silver Palace 
 win n we were stopped, it being announced 
 that the corpse was at that moment about to 
 he brought ont, to be conveyed to the more 
 sacred White Palace, previous to its being en- 
 tombed. 
 
 We immediately saw about sixteen or twenty 
 females brought out of the apartment where the 
 corpse lay, each lady on the back of her stout 
 bearer, weeping and lamenting aloud : these 
 were the queens and princesses of the royal 
 family, and formed the first part of the proces- 
 sion from one to the other palace : our place 
 was appointed immediately after the queens, 
 but it was with difficulty we could get along, 
 many females having thrown themselves on the 
 path which was to have been kept open. The 
 mourners had done this that the corpse might 
 pass over them, and we in fact were many times 
 under the necessity of treading upon these pros- 
 trate persons. The corpse was carried into the 
 White Palace, that it might, in this more sacred 
 place, be stripped of its old clothes, and clothed 
 with new, and also that it might be placed in a 
 wooden coffin. In this palace we were ho- 
 noured with a station not far from the corpse, 
 which was being fanned by about sixteen or 
 twenty young ladies, daughters of principal 
 chiefs. We soon, however, found that this 
 situation was insupportable on account of the- 
 stench, we being also a little to leeward. I re- 
 quested General Brady to ask permission of the- 
 queen, who was in another palace near, for us 
 to retire ; this she granted, only desiring that 
 we would attend the day after, to assist at 
 the entombment. How the people were able 
 to support the nuisance necessarily attendant 
 on stripping a corpse fourteen or fifteen days 
 dead, re-clothing it, and placing it in a coffin, 
 is wonderful ; and if all escaped without taking 
 disease from their labours, it is more wonderful 
 still. We have reason to believe that sickness 
 or death, arising from such a source, would 
 have been regarded as an honour by any of 
 Radama's subjects. 
 
 At eight, on the morning of Tuesday, we 
 were again at the palace, and conducted by 
 General Brady and Prince Correllere through 
 the crowds of mourners, indeed over some of 
 them, as well as over ten fine favourite bulls of 
 the late king ; these lay directly in our path, 
 and we could not help treading on them. The 
 paths were all covered with blue or white cloth 
 of the country. The corpse had been trans- 
 ferred at the close of the day before to a huge 
 coffin, or chest, of their heaviest and most valu- 
 able wood. The coffin was then carried from 
 this White Palace back to the Silver Palace, in 
 solemn procession, the queens, &c., following 
 next the coffin, and we succeeded them : some 
 of the Europeans had accepted the honour of 
 assisting to carry the coffin, which was a tre- 
 mendous weight, judging from appearance. I 
 declined the honour, charging myself with the 
 care of our Missionary ladies. 
 
 On again reaching the Silver Palace, the 
 coffin was not taken in, but raised upon the 
 wooden platform over the pavilion, over which 
 the splendid pall or canopy of gold was drawn, 
 which concealed it entirely from view. In this 
 pavilion, under the platform (which was raised 
 about seven feet), upon mats placed on the 
 ground, the royal females seated or threw them- 
 selves in seeming agonies of woe, which con- 
 tinued through the day ; and at sunset, when 
 
28G 
 
 FUNERAL OF KING RADAMA. 
 
 the entombment was taking place, their lament- 
 ations were distressing in the extreme. All 
 the day great multitudes had been employed in 
 preparing the tomb, which was in the court, 
 and not far from the pavilion. This tomb, at 
 which tens of thousands had been incessantly 
 working ever since the announcement of the 
 king's death either in fetching earth, or granite 
 stones, or timber ; or else in cutting or fitting 
 the stones, timber, &c. consisted of a huge 
 mound of a square figure, built up of clods and 
 earth, surrounded or faced by masses of granite, 
 brought, and cut, and built up by the people. 
 
 The height of this mound was upwards of 
 twenty feet ; about sixty feet square at the base, 
 gradually decreasing as it rose, until at the top 
 it was about twenty feet square. The actual 
 tomb, or place to receive the coffin and the 
 treasures destined to accompany the corpse, was 
 a square well or recess, in the upper part of 
 this mound or pyramid, about ten feet cube, 
 built of granite, and afterwards being lined, 
 floored, and ceiled with their most valuable 
 timbers. 
 
 At the foot of this mound had been standing 
 most of the day the large and massy si/n-r 
 coffin, destined to receive the royal corpse ; this 
 coffin was about eight feet long, three feet 
 and a half deep, and the same in width ; it 
 was formed of silver plates, strongly ri \etted 
 together with nails of the same metal, all made 
 from Spanish dollars : twelve thousand dollars 
 were employed in its construction. About six 
 in the evening this coffin was, by the multitude, 
 heaved up one of the steep sides of the mound 
 to the top, and placed in the tomb or chamber. 
 Immense quantities of treasures of various kinds 
 were deposited in or about the coffin, belonging 
 to his late Majesty, consisting especially of such 
 things as during his life he most pri/.ed. 'l\n 
 thousand hard doOant were laid in the silver 
 coffin, for him to lie upon ; and either inside, 
 or chiefly outside of the coffin, were placed or 
 cast all his rich habiliments, especially military : 
 there were eighty suits of very costly British 
 uniforms, hats, and feathers ; a golden helmet, 
 gorgets, epaulettes, sashes, gold spurs, very 
 valuable swords, daggers, spears (two of gold), 
 beautiful pistols, muskets, fowling-pieces, 
 matches, rings, brooches, and trinkets ; his 
 whole superb sideboard of silver plate, and large 
 and splendid solid gold cup, with many others 
 presented to him by the King of England: 
 great quantities of costly silks, satins, line cloths, 
 1 liable silklambas of Madagascar, &c. &c. 
 
 We were fatigued and pained by the sight of 
 such quantities of precious things consigned to 
 a tomb. As ten of his fine favourite bulls had 
 been slaughtered yesterday, so six of his finest 
 horses were speared to-day, and lay in the 
 court-yard near the tomb ; and to-morrow six 
 mure are to be killed. When to all these ex- 
 travagant expenses are added the 20,000 oxen, 
 worth here li\e Spanish dollars each (which 
 ha\e been given to the people, and used by 
 them for food during the preparation for, and 
 at the funeral), the Missionaries conjecture 
 that the expense of the funeral cannot be less 
 than sixty thousand pounds sterility. 
 
 All agree that though these people are sin- 
 gularly extravagant in the expenses they incur 
 at their funerals, yet there never was a royal 
 funeral so expensive as this, for no so\ 
 in .this country ever possessed one fifth of his 
 riches. 
 
 The silver coffin having been placed in the 
 tomb, the corpse in the wooden one was con- 
 veyed by weeping numbers from the top of the 
 platform over the pavilion to the top of the 
 pyramid, and placed beside the chamber. Here 
 the wooden coffin was broken up, and the 
 corpse exposed to those near. At this time 
 the royal female mourners, who had been all 
 day uttering their moans in the pavilion, now 
 crawled up the side of the pyramid to take a 
 last view of the remains. They were most ot 
 them obliged to be forced away ; their lament- 
 ations were now very loud, and truly lUstre-Mm: 
 to hear. The expressions used by them in 
 lamentation were some of them translated for 
 us : the following was chiefly the substance : 
 ll Why did you go away and leave me here? 
 Oh! come again, and fetch me to you!" The 
 body was transferred from the coffin of wood 
 to that of silver. Those who were eni: . 
 this service seemed to suffer from the putrid 
 ciHuvia, though many were constantly en 
 in sprinkling eau de Cologne. When the r 
 had taken place, the wooden coffin was thrown 
 ;1 into the tomb. 
 
 During the whole of this day, while the 
 chamber in the tomb was beinir prepared, the 
 king's two bands of music, with drun 
 fifes, &c., were in the court, and pla\cd 
 unceasingly, relieving each other by turns. 
 The tunes were such as Kadama most delighted 
 in many of the peculiar and favourite 
 England, Scotland, and Ireland, with waltzes, 
 marches, &c. 
 
 Diirimr intervals cannon and musketry were 
 tired outside of the courts of the palace, and 
 answered by musketry from the numcn 
 diers inside of the courts. 
 
 On the whole, while this funeral of Radama 
 was the most extravagant, it was tin- 
 splendid and orderly thing that could 1 
 cehcd, amongst such an uncivilized people. 
 
 The following extracts from a letter by Mr. 
 Itcnnt-t, the surviving Deputy, to Mr. M 
 mery, will briny thi* Work to an end. 
 
 The death of Radama took place on Sunday, 
 the 'JTth of July, though it v\ ret till 
 
 the Thursday following. Meanwhile, a violent 
 political revolution was effected in the palace, 
 by the intrigues and interest of Ranavalona, 
 one of the ten queens of the deceased monarch, 
 and voungest wife of his father. During this 
 explosion a number of men of the high< 
 were speared, and, among the rest, the heir 
 presumptive to .the throne, the amiable, intel- 
 ligent, and pious Prince Rakatobi, nephew to 
 Kadama, ,'a youth about fifteen years 
 Ranavalona, by such means, secured to ; 
 the sovereignty. Two days after the interment 
 of my late friend and companion, who hail sud- 
 denly closed liis life and useful labours on the 
 30th, I applied to the new queen for pen 
 
MR. BENNET IN MADAGASCAR RETURN TO THE MAURITIUS. 
 
 287 
 
 to leave the country, in terms the most respect- 
 ful ; stating that, as the schools were shut up, 
 and the Missionary work suspended, on account 
 of the mourning for Radama as my associate 
 also was dead, whose corpse I had laid in the 
 ground of her capital, I was anxious to return 
 home to inform his children and friends where 
 I had left him ; and to tell the Society, in Eng- 
 land, how much good their agents had done to 
 Madagascar how well Radama had behaved 
 towards them and how kindly she had ex- 
 pressed herself to be disposed towards them, 
 and towards myself individually. Her answer 
 was, " Thus saith Ranavalona maiijaka (maii- 
 jaka means sovereign), you did well to ask me 
 when you might leave this country, because I 
 am the person to determine that; and when 
 the time comes I will tell you." To several 
 subsequent applications no answer was returned. 
 The fact was that the queen wished to prevent 
 any avoidable intercourse with other parts of 
 the island ; besides which she had, at that time, 
 no troops to spare as my guard, and was afraid 
 to give offence to England, if I, who was her 
 guest, happened to be killed on the journey. 
 On the morning after the funeral of Radama, I 
 received a message to this purport : "I told 
 you that when the time came that you should 
 go from Tananarive I would inform you. I 
 shall send seven hundred soldiers to Tamatave ; 
 they set out to-morrow, and they will guard 
 you." "With great difficulty Mr. Griffiths, one 
 of the Missionaries, was allowed to accompany 
 me down to the coast, 011 condition that he 
 should leave his wife and children behind, and 
 promise not to quit Madagascar. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Cummins, being desirous of 
 availing themselves of the opportunity of going 
 to the Mauritius with me, were permitted, their 
 family circumstances being peculiar. Accord- 
 ingly we set out for the coast. At Amboita- 
 
 , about the middle of our journey, we 
 learned that Prince Rataffe and his wife (the 
 nearest in blood to the late king, the latter be- 
 ing Radama's eldest sister,) were in that village 
 on their way to the metropolis, whither they 
 had been summoned by the new government. 
 We saw, at once, that they were going into 
 the tiger's mouth." They came to dine with 
 us, and food was, indeed, many hours before us, 
 but none touched a morsel. The interview was 
 painful, and attended with peril to all. They 
 felt that their death-warrant was sealed ; and 
 when they heard that their hopeful but unfor- 
 son had been slain, to paint the agony 
 expresM-d in their countenances is beyond the 
 ])d\ver of language; and, as no words can de- 
 scribe it, so no time can erase the picture from 
 my distinct recollection. They asked advice ; 
 but what advice could we offer '\ They pro- 
 posed to escape to the coast, in hope to find 
 some vessel to carry them to the Mauritius. I 
 assured them that the governor would give 
 them protection till an arrangement could be 
 made for their safe return to Madagascar. The 
 
 . at parting, presented me with his silk 
 lti/i///d, or mantle, desiring that I would remem- 
 ber lln-ni. \ learned, afterwards, that they had 
 found their way to the sea-shore; but, not suc- 
 
 ceeding in obtaining a passage by a bullock- 
 vessel, the unhappy fugitives returned into the 
 woods. There, while they were sleeping in a 
 small hut, overcome with fatigue, the royal 
 blood-hounds scented them out, ran a spear 
 through Rataffe's heart, and carried off his wife 
 prisoner, who was likewise miserably slaugh- 
 tered in the sequel. 
 
 Arriving at Tamatave, on the 5th of Septem- 
 ber, we engaged a passage to the Mauritius 011 
 board of a bullock-vessel, securing the only 
 cabin, which was very small, and wretchedly 
 furnished. Herein Mr. and Mrs. Cummins, 
 their two children (one an infant seven weeks 
 old) and myself, accommodated ourselves as 
 w r ell as we could. There were two hundred 
 head of cattle in the vessel, some of which were 
 littering close at our door. The dirt, confusion, 
 and discomfort, were indeed patience-trying ; 
 added to which the sickness of both parents, 
 and my sincere disposition to render them what 
 help I could as nurse, sometimes to themselves 
 and sometimes to their little ones, these things 
 might have disheartened almost any voyager 
 less inured to inconveniences than myself; but 
 I was contented and happy amidst all ; my sick 
 fellow-travellers kindly appreciated my little 
 services, which was an abundant reward, and I 
 had cause when we reached Port Louis, on the 
 30th of the same month, to say, ' as I had done 
 many a time before, " Thus far hath the Lord 
 helped me." 
 
 On the 16th of October I went on board the 
 Pcrti, Captain Graham, for the Cape of Good 
 Hope, where, after being roughly handled by 
 one of the tremendous north-westers of that re- 
 gion (the dangers being much increased by our 
 ship being too light in ballast to keep steady 
 before a gale), I arrived in safety on the 22nd of 
 November. Here I was most kindly welcomed 
 by the Rev. Mr. Miles, the Society's agent in 
 South Africa, and his benevolent wife. They 
 gave me comfortable quarters in the large Mis- 
 sion-house ; and I was at once at home. I re- 
 mained four months in the colony, during which 
 time, in company of Mr. Miles, I visited the 
 Missionary stations both of our own Society and 
 several others belonging to the Moravian 
 brethren and the Wesleyan Methodists. My 
 health and spirits, which had been affected by 
 the dreadful scenes in Madagascar, the miseries 
 of the voyage to the Mauritius, and the tem- 
 pestuous passage to Cape Town, were much re- 
 freshed and gradually restored during these de- 
 lightful and profitable excursions, which brought 
 me acquainted with so many servants of the 
 Lord, and afforded me opportunities of wit- 
 nessing how He prospers, in various ways, the 
 work of their hands. 
 
 On the 26th of March, 1829, I once more em- 
 barked, and in the Lord Amherst, East India- 
 man, encountered my last voyage. There was 
 a large and respectable party on board from 
 Calcutta, principally military, with whom I was 
 enabled to pass the time pleasantly. We stop- 
 ped six days at St. Helena, our Captain having 
 to deliver part of his cargo there. The sea- 
 view of this island is repulsive ; it appeared to 
 me like one vast, black, craggy, volcanic cinder; 
 

 AN INCIDENT AT SEA MK. HKNNKTS AlliMVAL IN LONDON. 
 
 :uid I Avas powerfully reminded of the exclama- 
 tion which Buonaparte is reported to ha . 
 when he came in si^lit of his future abode, " Is 
 this the Promethean rock to which I am to be 
 chained for life'."' I could well conceive his 
 horror of mind at such a prospect. Lord Byron, 
 in a little poem which lie is said to have written 
 on his lust l)irth-d . I . me to ha-. 
 
 ably expressed il..- au,'V,l and nnenviali: 
 liit stati- of the fallen Emperor's mind, 
 as the character of his own dark recoli 
 and forebodings : 
 
 " 'Tis time tiii-; heart -lionld be unmoved, 
 Since other-, u h,i> erase. 1 to iuo\f ; 
 
 Yet, 1' .' he belovt d, 
 
 Still Id me love. 
 
 " My "lays are hi their yellow leaf, 
 Tiie flower, the fruit of 1 >\ 
 
 onn, the ciuikiT, and the . 
 Are mine B 
 
 " Tlie tire that mi this bo 
 
 e i~ Uih.i'.eci 
 A funeral pile!" 
 
 r\eral Dallas, who r< 
 
 I the most smiling part of thi -frowH- 
 
 '. inu r islainl, a few miles from .lame, '\' ( ,\. 
 
 ubliijfin.'dy im ited me to the h< 
 
 tation-house, during' my sho: 
 
 I'd myself of his kindm--- - to spend two da\- 
 
 with him, and hi-- excellent famih. 
 
 Of course I visited Loi. 
 
 hitler is in the depth >f a 
 | wiiulii; .'.ley. lie, 
 
 " AVhu let'! ;t n:Ui:e at v. hich l!;e u,>r'. , 
 
 To 
 
 j.lain iron 
 
 ' 
 
 lows, A\ hich hear ', ' 
 theft hv visitors. Th- 
 
 ; and the flowers of : 
 > mpf in^, you nia 
 
 :he tull Vv-tcran corporal 
 who keeps watch over ti 
 
 ..triet . . !'e\ellt Sp. . 
 
 I ie is not ii, ^ratify we'.i 
 
 people, and nohody need LTT : man a 
 
 ti-illi 1 for one of his eh 
 
 seems to he of the viirht tiu'iire, age, and 
 
 ter, f)f sia-h a scene: his furrowed and , 
 
 si\e face im! i-'at 'w: that lie lias been acquainted 
 
 with si: Hid strange tiiinu's lo; 
 
 hy. A spriii;. 1 ; of jinre \ '-y the rails, 
 
 bubbles up in a little well, and, escapi 
 
 . e, runs and spar'- the valley, ;;t 
 
 the foot of the almost perpendicular hill. 
 
 Lfter Weighing anchor and sailin:/ from S|. 
 Helena, wo had, on the whole, a con,: 
 iiomeward. One day, indocd, m 
 cei'ision Island wliere i, was understood that 
 ly htM'ii captured hy a pirate, 
 iiu^t of the crew and p .i-.rdcred, and 
 
 tin.' ship scuttled no small stir was excited on 
 
 hoard re mark abb 
 
 and motions of a il, which bol 
 
 captain and the mate seemed convine 
 preparing and detenu; 
 
 attack us. Unfortunately we were not well 
 provided for such a brunt. However, t; 
 lions, that, the circr, 
 
 not, that all tir 
 
 Our military 1 ;,ut on their 
 
 iposing 
 
 aspect 
 
 evidently smaller than ours, but tnen, no doubt, 
 
 if a pirate, ;s fully 
 
 supplied with all t jr of a .profound 
 
 ad led us to dispense v,ith. In duo 
 
 
 
 when a lar_ r T, and 
 
 soon lil. 
 
 . 
 f in their thoi:. 
 
 . 
 
 ! round t! 
 
 to me ; 
 and ru. 
 
 . 
 
 laburnum, and the prodigality of ' miik 
 
 thorn 1 ' rcii; 
 
 youth, 
 
 rt> train from n-qn. 
 
 for me a branch of li 
 
 bloom, for t;. 
 
 scent. 
 
 Juiu 
 
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