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 MJ'i

 
 A WINTER 
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA; 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 
 
 UPON MODES OF TRAVELLING, MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, 
 CLIMATES AND PRODUCTIONS, 
 
 WITH A PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 ST. CROIX, TRINIDAD DE CUBA, HAVANA, 
 KEY WEST, AND ST. AUGUSTINE, 
 
 AS PLACES OF RESORT FOR NORTHERN INVALIDS, 
 
 BY AN INVALID. 
 
 NEW-YORK : 
 
 PUBLISHED BY WILEY AND PUTNAM. 
 161 Broadway. 
 
 1839.
 
 Entered according to an Act of Congress, in the year 1839, by 
 WILEY & PUTNAM, 
 
 In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of 
 New-York. 
 
 J. P. Wright, Printer, 18 New Street, N. Y.
 
 1610 
 
 OS 
 
 Si 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PACK 
 
 PREFACE. ........ v 
 
 CHAPTER I. Of Climate in general. . . .13 
 
 II. Author's Own Case 25 
 
 III. The Voyage 29 
 
 IV. Bassin, or Christianstadt, St. Croix. . 35 
 
 V. West End, or Frederickstadt. . . 49 
 
 VI. Santa Cruz in general. . . .62 
 
 VII. Voyage to Trinidad de Cuba. . . 72 
 
 VIII. Trinidad de Cuba 75 
 
 IX. Voyage to Batabanno and Havana. . 106 
 
 X. Havana 110 
 
 XI. Key West 115 
 
 XII. Voyage to St. Augustine. . . . 137 
 
 XIII. St. Augustine 142 
 
 XIV. Return Home 159 
 
 XV. General Observations upon the West 
 
 Indies and Florida. . . . .168 
 
 XVI. Preparations for going South. . . 190
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 THE great and constantly increasing number of 
 pulmonary complaints in the United States, is 
 happily beginning to excite the attention which 
 the importance of the subject demands. The 
 bills of mortality abundantly prove, that about 
 one-fourth of the deaths in these States is caused 
 by diseases of the lungs, in one shape or other, 
 and the fairest and the best of the youth of our 
 land are every day cut down around us, in the 
 full flush of youthful hopes and ardent antici- 
 pations ; discouraged by the almost equally 
 unsuccessful application of patent quack-nos- 
 trums and scientific medical skill, the friends 
 and relatives of these unfortunate victims of 
 premature decline, have generally abandoned 
 ull hope of relief from the earliest appearance 
 of this terrible disease ; and, in many cases, 
 they have been left to pine away by its slow 
 and sure operation, with the consoling reflection 
 that they were past all hope, and had nothing to
 
 VI PREFACE. 
 
 do but wait patiently for death to end their mis- 
 eries. For a time, it was supposed that much 
 might be hoped from a winter residence in the 
 southern States ; and many a poor patient has 
 been sent to Charleston or Savannah, St. Au- 
 gustine or Pensacola, Mobile or New-Orleans, 
 or some other equally unfit and improper place, 
 to add to his other afflictions, that of dying in a 
 strange land, without the consolation of his 
 friends to stand around him in his last moments, 
 or shed a tear over his untimely grave. So lit- 
 tle benefit was found to result from a visit to the 
 southern States, that many came to the conclu- 
 tion that no change of climate could be of any 
 avail, and refused to separate themselves from 
 their friends in their days of desolation and de- 
 spair : choosing, rather, to meet their unhappy 
 fate at home, than to try so forlorn a hope as 
 that afforded by going south. The enterprise 
 of our people had found out every nook and 
 corner of every State in the Union where money 
 could be made, and well ascertained the nature 
 of the trade and commerce of every place ; but, 
 upon the nice and important question of the fit. 
 ness of a climate for invalids, very little know, 
 ledge was obtained, partly because the attention 
 of the healthy was never turned to the subject, 
 but more because no healthy man can be a com'
 
 PREFACE. VU 
 
 petent judge of such matters ; and invalids were 
 unable to make the proper investigations, or to 
 publish them when made. It is only within the 
 last few years, that the idea has become preva- 
 lent, even among physicians, that the southern 
 States of this Union are the most unfit place on 
 earth for invalids, and that the whole winter 
 season there, is not unlike November and April 
 in the north, which every-body knows, or ought 
 to know, are the worst months in the year. 
 
 So great is the ignorance upon this subject, 
 that it is believed more than five hundred from 
 the northern and middle States are sent on a 
 useless pilgrimage annually : the same patient 
 scarcely ever going more than once,, having 
 learned by experience that it was merely 
 changing from bad to worse. Within a few 
 years past, many eminent physicians have been 
 urging their patients to go to the West Indies, 
 and many have pursued the advice with decided 
 advantage ; but the unwillingness of Americans 
 to leave their own country, connected with 
 their ignorance of the West India climate, have 
 deterred thousands from going there who would 
 otherwise have gone, with the certainty of bene- 
 fit, if not of perfect restoration to health. 
 
 The author of this little volume, after iiaving 
 suffered the effects of northern winters for seve-
 
 V1I1 PREFACE. 
 
 ral years, and having tried the southern States 
 with no advantage, was induced, by the strong 
 recommendation of his physician, and the in- 
 creased severity of his disease, in the early part 
 of the winter of 1838-39, to visit the island of 
 St. Croix, which was supposed to be the best of 
 the West Indies for climate, partly, perhaps, for 
 want of sufficient acquaintance with other 
 places. After spending several weeks at St. 
 Croix, and being greatly improved in health, for 
 the purpose of being able to judge for himself 
 between different places of resort, he visited 
 Trinidad de Cuba ; passed from thence, through 
 the island of Cuba, to Havana ; from thence 
 to Key West, the only tolerable place in the 
 United States ; and from thence to St. Augus- 
 tine ; stopping long enough at each place to 
 form an accurate conclusion, and, in the mean 
 time, collecting all the information he could as 
 to other places. The information thus obtained 
 is so useful to himself, that he deems it his duty 
 to publish it for the benefit of the community ; 
 and, to insure the attention which the import- 
 ance of the subject demands, it has been thought 
 better to make a small volume by itself, than to 
 put it in any public journal, which would be 
 merely read, thrown aside, and forgotten. In 
 order to enable the reader to judge for himself,
 
 PREFACE. IX 
 
 it has been thought proper to give him an ac* 
 count of the author's own case, and some others 
 that fell under his immediate observation ; a 
 detailed description of the situation, climate, 
 and other material circumstances of St. Croix; 
 the same as to Trinidad de Cuba, Havana, Key 
 West, and St. Augustine ; with observations 
 upon other places, and the reasons of the 
 healthiness or unhealthiness of each particular 
 place. The invalid, knowing his own symp- 
 toms, will then be able to decide at once which 
 is the best place for himself, and act accord- 
 ingly. By possessing the information herein 
 contained, before leaving home, the author could 
 have saved himself at least three hundred dol- 
 lars in expenses, besides adding greatly to his 
 comforts, during a single winter. He cannot 
 doubt, therefore, that the work will prove ac- 
 ceptable to the public, particularly to that un- 
 fortunate class for \\hose benefit it is princi- 
 pally intended. They will get hero the dispas- 
 sionate judgment of one M r ho had no interest to 
 lead him to prefer one place to another, and 
 who has been willing to give as well the unfa- 
 vourable as the favourable circumstances of 
 each particular place. 
 
 The following chapters contain a very concise 
 statement of the results of my observation, and
 
 X PREFACE. 
 
 information, during my tour ; and, so far as 
 regards the principal question that concerns in- 
 valids, desiring to visit the West Indies, or either 
 of the other places therein mentioned, to wit, 
 the salubrity of different climates, and accom- 
 modations for invalids, may be relied upon, as 
 in all respects correct. As regards the matters 
 of general information, and interest, not having 
 the time nor feeling the disposition to acquire 
 very precise intelligence, and without pretend, 
 ing to look into books for aid, I have merely in- 
 terspersed the work with such matters as fur- 
 nished the principal topics of conversation, at 
 the places through which I passed, and, there- 
 fore, am unable to vouch for their accuracy in 
 every particular ; but, believing that they would 
 relieve the reader from the monotonous tone of 
 mere descriptions of climates, &c. &c., I have 
 given them according to my best information; 
 and I have generally distinguished between mat- 
 ters within my own knowledge, and those de- 
 rived from others. I might have gone into 
 detail, and made a larger volume ; but, as my 
 object is not to make others read, but to convey 
 useful intelligence, conciseness has been my 
 principal aim ; and, it is humbly hoped, that the 
 reader will not deem the brevity of the work a 
 demerit. I might, by bestowing a little more
 
 PREFACE. XI 
 
 attention upon the subject, have swelled the 
 work, by giving a more scientific and historical 
 account of the places before-mentioned, but am 
 very far from aspiring to the reputation of an 
 erudite author, or from claiming any literary 
 merit for this production. Knowing that thou- 
 sands were in want of the information herein 
 contained, and that, from peculiar sensitiveness, 
 and attentive observation, I have been enabled 
 to judge of all the places in question with great 
 accuracy, and to present at one view more use- 
 ful knowledge upon the subject, than has ever 
 before been published, I have been induced to 
 write, and offer to the public, this little volume, 
 hoping that it may be instrumental in restoring 
 to health, those who are unfortunately afflicted 
 with complaints similar to my own ; may, in 
 some degree, aid physicians, in advising their 
 patients what place to prefer for their particu- 
 lar complaints ; and, on the whole, may prove 
 interesting and acceptable to the general read- 
 er. If these expectations are realized, I shall 
 be amply satisfied ; if not, it will not be the first 
 well intended effort that has failed of accom- 
 plishing its object.
 
 A WINTER 
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Of Climate in General. 
 
 NOTHING is more talked of or less under- 
 stood than the healthiness of climates. When- 
 ever it becomes difficult to remove disease, 
 and the friends of the patient become alarmed, 
 or the physician gets sick of experiments, a 
 change of climate is resorted to, as a kind 
 of patent panacea for all maladies ; by means 
 whereof the patient, if not helped in any other 
 way, is at least helped out of the way of his 
 friends and physician. In cities they are sent 
 to the country; in the country, to the city; 
 inland, they are sent to the sea-shore ; on the 
 coast, to the interior ; from the mountains to 
 the plains, and from the plains to the moun- 
 2
 
 14 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 tains ; from warm weather to cold, and from 
 cold to warm ; from dry to moist, and from 
 moist to dry: in short, any thing for a change, 
 from good to better, or from bad to worse. 
 There is nothing more difficult to define, ac- 
 cording to the common use of the term, than 
 a good climate. It means a place where the 
 well are robust and hardy, or where few vio- 
 lent diseases are known, or where the yellow 
 fever does not rage, or where not more than 
 half the people have the fever and ague : in 
 fine, almost any place that has any resources, 
 and where lands or lots will sell in market. 
 For however people may express themselves 
 as to the salubrity of places in their vicinity, 
 they never acknowledge their own place to 
 be unhealthy as long as any body has life 
 enough left to deny it. Let any one deny 
 this who has travelled through our western 
 country if he can. Let him refresh his recol- 
 lection as to the number of places that have 
 been resolutely pronounced healthy by one 
 half, while the other half their inhabitants 
 were sick. 
 
 St. Louis has been declared healthier than 
 Boston, Cincinnati than Albany, Utica than 
 New- York, and, to cap the climax of false-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 15 
 
 hood, New Orleans has been claimed to 
 be healthier than any northern city. The 
 inhabitants of Kentucky and Virginia have 
 removed to Upper Missouri ; those of New 
 England and New- York to Ohio, Illinois, 
 Michilimackinac, and Green Bay ; those of 
 the western States to the New England sea- 
 board ; and those of the northern and middle 
 States to Alabama, Mississippi, Florida, Louis- 
 iana, and Texas ; and all on account of their 
 health. This has arisen in part from the 
 restlessness of those afflicted with chronic 
 complaints, but mostly from the temporary 
 benefit experienced by almost every one by 
 the mere change of climate and scene, through 
 the influence of the nerves, without regard to 
 the effects of a continued residence in the par- 
 ticular climate. Because the immediate ef- 
 fect is agreeable, it is hastily concluded that 
 the newly tried climate is good, and every 
 sacrifice is made to remove to it: with what 
 results let the thousand disappointed wander- 
 ers after health answer. Having once made 
 the experiment without success, the unfortu- 
 nate patient concludes that nothing can help 
 him, and, without further expense or trouble, 
 settles down into a calm state of despondency,
 
 16 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 and drags out the residue of a miserable ex- 
 istence. Instead of vainly asking opinions as 
 to climate, let us, in the first place, carefully 
 consider what are the causes of a fine and what 
 of a bad climate, and where they are found ; 
 and, secondly, what cases of disease are most 
 affected by climate. 
 
 1. The causes of a good climate are few 
 and simple: an even temperature, warm or 
 cool / an atmosphere at once dry and pure. 
 Those of a bad climate, extreme heat or 
 cold, variableness, humidity and impurity of 
 atmosphere. In proportion as the former or 
 latter preponderate, the climate will be good 
 or bad as a general thing. Now, apply this 
 principle to our own country. New England 
 has dryness of atmosphere in general, because 
 the soil is dry, and the growth of vegetation 
 not rank. To the sound in constitution, there- 
 fore, it is a good climate. But it is subject not 
 only to severe cold for a great part of the 
 time, but also at times to extreme heat, and, 
 what is worse than either, to the most sudden 
 transitions from one to the other. Therefore, 
 though a great proportion of the healthy may 
 keep so, when disease has once got foothold 
 in the system, it is almost impossible to get
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 17 
 
 rid of it. The cold wind of an hour will blow 
 away the improvement of a week : and even 
 in the summer, when the feeble patient will 
 almost suffocate with heat in the middle of the 
 day, he finds perspiration suddenly checked 
 at night, and requires three, blankets covering 
 to sleep warm. In the western part of New- 
 York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Illinois, Indiana, 
 and Missouri, the same evils prevail ; in some 
 places perhaps not to so great an extent ; but 
 here there is an additional evil of greater 
 magnitude. The soil is rich and moist ; the 
 growth of vegetation rank ; and, what is worse 
 yet, there are plenty of fresh lakes, ponds, 
 swamps, sluggish rivers, &c. &c. on almost 
 every side ; and there are no sea breezes to 
 give even a temporary purity to the atmos- 
 phere. However well located a particular 
 place may be, therefore, as to causes in its 
 immediate vicinity, its inhabitants must 
 breathe the great moving mass of air that has 
 passed over hundreds of miles of land imbued 
 with moisture and covered with decaying 
 vegetable matter, from which a most noxious 
 malaria is constantly arising. Because, in 
 particular places certain malaria has pro- 
 duced a particular disease only within a short
 
 18 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 distance of the place where it originated, it 
 has been inferred that effluvia from marshes, 
 swamps, moist soil, &c., could not affect the 
 salubrity of the atmosphere, except in its im- 
 mediate vicinity ; and the idea that the inju- 
 rious effects may extend hundreds of miles, 
 has been treated as visionary and absurd, but 
 is none the less true. If a damp floor will 
 affect a whole house, will not a soil of many 
 feet in depth, saturated with water, and ex- 
 posed to the rays of the sun, extend its va- 
 pours miles in height ? It must be so ; or 
 clouds and rain would never be. If an un- 
 wholesome vapour is constantly arising miles 
 in height from the whole surface of a country 
 hundreds of miles in extent, will it not move 
 in a mass in the shape of wind, for hundreds 
 of miles, without becoming much diluted by 
 the mixture of other air, as the warm water 
 of the Gulf Stream makes its way northward 
 without being cooled by the surrounding wa- 
 ters? And if this effluvia does not every 
 where produce specific diseases, is it any more 
 strange that it should affect the general health 
 and constitution of mankind, than that the 
 water of one river should affect the quality of 
 the fishes that live in it, differently from that
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 19 
 
 of others? Two rivers may each have what 
 is called pure water, and still the shad of one 
 be superior to those of the other. If fishes 
 are affected by the water they breathe, must 
 not we be equally affected by our element of 
 respiration, and is not the general liability 
 to diseases in proportion to the humidity and 
 impurity of the atmosphere ? To-be-sure, the 
 effects are not immediately felt by the robust 
 and hardy, except in particular sections, and 
 the country is therefore, in common parlance, 
 called healthy; but as often as the system 
 becomes prostrated by some sudden attack of 
 disease, the slow recovery in some, and the 
 remaining chronic diseases in other cases, 
 plainly demonstrate the badness of the cli- 
 mate. In New England a person has a fever, 
 and in two weeks is entirely well again. In 
 the western country it takes six or eight 
 weeks to get up at all, and then, in more 
 than half the cases, the patient is not entire- 
 ly well in a year, and in many cases finds 
 permanent chronic disease remaining after all 
 that can be done. It is therefore madness 
 to keep a patient here at least during the fall, 
 winter, and spring months ; and even the 
 summer is bad enough. The mountainous
 
 20 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 regions of the southern States furnish a pretty 
 good summer residence for invalids : but in 
 the winter, the whole of our southern States 
 are similar to, or worse than November and 
 April in New-York, subject to dampness, 
 cold, and sudden changes, making, on the 
 whole, about as bad a place as could be ima- 
 gined for invalids. The cold is not quite as 
 severe ; but as the preparation for it is not as 
 good, it is as much realized as at the north. 
 When it is considered that these States are 
 situated to the north of the Tropic, and that 
 consequently the wind must be almost con- 
 stantly blowing from the cold regions of the 
 north during winter, sweeping nearly a whole 
 continent, and bearing onward its accumu- 
 lated vapours, is it at all surprising that inva- 
 lids should fare worse here than almost any 
 where else ? The southern people are open- 
 ing their eyes upon this subject; and notwith- 
 standing the general idea at the north, that 
 there is no consumption at the south, nume- 
 rous patients afflicted, or at least threatened 
 with that complaint, are now sent from thence 
 to the West Indies, or to the south of Europe, 
 annually. It is only between the Tropics that 
 the requisite uniformity of temperature can be
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 21 
 
 found. The West India Islands are the most 
 accessible to us on account of proximity, and 
 are, in many other respects, the best resort on 
 earth for those afflicted with chronic diseases. 
 They have the pure ocean on the north and 
 east, from whence the wind always blows, 
 and it is only necessary to avoid immediate 
 local causes of disease to have as healthy a 
 climate as the earth can afford. Let those 
 who are enamoured with the idea of southern 
 Europe read the journal of Lord Byron, or 
 any body else who has kept one there, and 
 they will be satisfied. They will soon per- 
 ceive that rain, mud, hail, sleet, and snow, are 
 not so pleasant things as to compensate for 
 going three thousand miles, especially when 
 we have enough of them at home to be had 
 gratis. 
 
 Clark on Climates and Diseases gives a 
 particular description of all the places of re- 
 sort in southern Europe, and shows them all 
 far inferior to Madeira as resorts for invalids ; 
 and from his description of the latter, it will 
 be seen that in winter cold is a serious evil 
 there. The thermometer falls at times as low 
 as fifty degrees, and rainy days are frequent. 
 At page 160-1, he cites the opinion of Dr. Hei-
 
 22 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 neken, who resided at Madeira on account of 
 a pulmonary complaint, that the summer there 
 is far more favourable than the winter, and 
 that pulmonary invalids had better spend the 
 winter in the West Indies, and the summer in 
 Madeira. At page 164, (note,) Dr. Clark says, 
 that he intended to have given some account 
 of the climate of the West Indies, believing that 
 they would atford a better winter resort than 
 any he had described, but that he had been 
 unable to obtain sufficient information to 
 satisfy himself upon the subject. 
 
 The fear of yellow fever in the West Indies, 
 which has deterred many from going there, is 
 altogether unfounded. In summer or winter, 
 with ordinary care, there is no danger. The 
 cases of yellow fever generally occur on board 
 vessels, and about particular ports, which are 
 known from local causes to be unhealthy, sum- 
 mer and winter. An invalid will of course 
 keep away from such places, and be safe. If 
 he does riot, it is his own fault. In all other 
 places there are no fevers without great expo- 
 sure to the heat of the sun, and the cure is 
 easy in case of an attack much easier than 
 similar attacks at the north. After reading 
 
 O 
 
 the following chapters, the reader can judge
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 23 
 
 for himself as to the correctness of these 
 observations. 
 
 2. There is scarcely any disease but what 
 is more or less affected by climate ; but it is 
 only chronic affections that afford an oppor- 
 tunity for benefit by a change. In fevers, 
 acute inflammations, and such like violent 
 diseases, of course the patient must combat 
 the enemy wherever he meets with the at- 
 tack, as he cannot get away ; but in almost 
 all cases of sub-inflammation of the lungs, 
 bronchial tubes, stomach, liver, or any part of 
 the mucus membrane, producing catarrh, asth- 
 ma, stricture of the chest, coughs, dyspepsia, 
 &c. <fec., and particularly in all cases threat- 
 ening consumption, the most decided advan- 
 tage is gained by a good climate, where, in- 
 stead of burning with heat and sweltering 
 
 O 
 
 with perspiration at one hour, and shivering 
 with cold and wrapped in an overcoat the 
 next, with perspiration entirely obstructed, 
 the patient can at all times freely expose him- 
 self to the air without the burthen of heavy 
 clothing, and can keep up a uniform action 
 upon the surface, thereby promoting a healthy 
 action of the mucus membrane and all the 
 secretory organs of the system. To almost
 
 24 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 every such patient, the relief afforded in a 
 single week is enough to compensate for a 
 voyage to the West Indies and back again. 
 In cases of confirmed tubercular consumption, 
 however, it is worse than useless to send the 
 patient to a strange land for the sake of a 
 climate which can do him no good.
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 25 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 My Own Case. 
 
 IN January, 1831, at the age of 23, I was at- 
 tacked with an inflammation upon the lungs, 
 so violently as to require copious bleeding, 
 &c., <fcc. After the disease had subsided, to 
 the great surprise of my physician as well as 
 myself, the first particle of food on the return 
 of appetite produced extreme distress at the 
 stomach, flatulency, violent eructations, and 
 other distressing symptoms of dyspepsia. 
 The whole nervous system became irritated 
 in the highest degree, and after having been 
 confined in my room till May, as the warm 
 weather came on, I was able to get to Sara- 
 toga Springs, where the waters were tried 
 with trifling advantage ; and from thence to 
 the sea-shore, where greater benefit was per- 
 ceived, insomuch, that travelling, instead of 
 fatiguing too much, began to afford relief. 
 
 In the fall, the advance of cold weather 
 seemed to obstruct all the functions of the 
 system, and apprehensive for the result, and 
 3
 
 26 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 anxious to do something, it was resolved to 
 try the relaxing effect of a southern climate. 
 The worst symptoms somewhat abated on 
 going south, but others appearing at New- 
 Orleans, resulting from the climate, a Missis- 
 sippi steamboat was a natural resort ; and 
 before the first of December I was at St. 
 Louis. To my great disappointment, that 
 place was found to be about as cold, and, if 
 possible, more damp and chilly than west- 
 ern New- York. Despairing of any relief 
 from climate, I returned home by way of 
 Ohio, and arrived there in the severest winter 
 weather, somewhat improved by all these 
 journeys, voyages, and changes of climate 
 together. Severe dyspepsia, however, re- 
 mained, and no hope of recovery was per- 
 ceived unless time should afford relief. 
 
 In the fall of 1834, severe symptoms of 
 catarrh appeared, and, for the first time, the 
 lungs began to show symptoms of revolt. 
 Severe attacks of stricture across the chest, 
 with a violent cough, occurred occasionally 
 at intervals of two or three weeks. 
 
 In November, 1836, in the hope of obtain- 
 ing benefit from a residence on the sea-shore, 
 I removed to the city of New- York. But
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 27 
 
 before the winter had fairly commenced, the 
 strong, bracing, cold sea air, together with 
 the gas from coal fires, gave me a severe 
 attack of bronchitis, which rendered respira- 
 tion distressing beyond description. Think- 
 ing the sea air and coal fires the immediate 
 causes of difficulty, I returned to the coun- 
 try, where, instead of being relieved, every 
 symptom was aggravated to such a degree as 
 to render it impossible to go south, which 
 now plainly appeared to be the only availa- 
 ble remedy. 
 
 On returning to the city in the spring, 
 however, the air from the ocean appeared 
 very favourable ; and during the summer, the 
 improvement was so great that I was enabled 
 to endure the mild winter of 1837-8 in New- 
 York with but slight difficulty; 
 
 During the hot summer of 1 838, the worst 
 symptoms of catarrh, asthma, and dyspepsia 
 made a combined attack upon the system. 
 The nerves became very irritable ; pains be- 
 came severe and constant ; and every thing 
 seemed to indicate a fatal termination of my 
 miseries. The first cool wind in September 
 brought back the stricture across the chest 
 with a severity before unknown. Instead of
 
 28 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 coming occasionally, and only at night, it 
 now became constant day and night. Down 
 to the first of December I had three attacks, 
 each lasting about a week ; during xvhich 
 there was scarcely a moment's cessation of 
 the severest distress, or an hour that would 
 admit of a reclining posture. The cough 
 was terrible, the expectoration copious, and 
 there was no reasonable ground to believe 
 that I could survive the winter. At the 
 earnest solicitation of my physician, as a last 
 experiment it was resolved to visit St. Croix, 
 which was then much resorted to by inva- 
 lids from New- York, and was considered the 
 best place for them in the West Indies, or 
 indeed anywhere else. The expense, to be 
 sure, was double what it would have been to 
 Key West ; but it was now too strong a case 
 to think of that. Accordingly, with hasty 
 preparation and drooping spirits, I bid adieu 
 to New- York, and embarked upon a winter's 
 ocean, with every thing to apprehend and 
 but little reasonably to hope. At least, such 
 was my own impressions. The sequel will 
 show how agreeably I was disappointed.
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 29 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 The Voyage. 
 
 MANY are deterred from going to any place 
 beyond seas by fear of sea-sickness ; and 
 hence seek out the best place they can find 
 in their own country as a resort during win- 
 ter. Hundreds, no doubt, visit our southern 
 States every winter r who are fully aware of 
 the superiority of the West India climate, 
 because they have not the moral courage to 
 endure a few days at sea, when all who have 
 tried it acknowledge the benefits after it is 
 over, whatever may be their opinion while 
 the distress remains. I have been to sea sev- 
 eral times ; with one exception, have always 
 been sick as long as the sea has been rough ; 
 and although while at sea I have always de- 
 termined never to go again, have uniformly 
 thought the reverse as soon as it was over. 
 And why ? Because conscious of the great 
 benefit to health derived from it. 
 
 On the fourth of December, in the severest 
 of winter weather, with a constitution sulfer- 
 3*
 
 30 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 ing under the combined influence of catarrh, 
 asthma and dyspepsia, all aggravated by the 
 severities of a northern winter, with great 
 pain of body and depression of spirits border- 
 ing on despair, I abandoned my foothold on 
 terra Jirma, and committed myself to the 
 mercy of the winds and the waves. My 
 own case was bad enough ; but a worse one 
 was before my eyes, and it did not become 
 me to complain. A fellow-passenger, a man 
 in the prime of life, and but six weeks be- 
 fore perfectly healthy, was brought on board, 
 being unable to walk ; and accompanied by 
 his mother, took his leave of his brothers, 
 while the tears of all falling thick and fast, 
 plainly indicated their belief that it was a 
 final separation. He had an attack of he- 
 morrhage at the lungs, and was then under 
 the full influence of a hectic fever, and pro- 
 bably could not have survived two weeks 
 at New- York. 
 
 After four days of fair wind, but rough sea, 
 during which I was unable to leave my 
 berth, I crawled, for I was unable to walk, 
 to the. deck, and stretched myself at full 
 length in a sun-shine as cheering as the 
 smiles of friendship. We had now passed
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 31 
 
 the Gulf Stream, and saw no more of cold 
 weather. My improvement, in spite of con- 
 tinued sea-sickness, was truly surprising 
 far beyond my most ardent anticipations. 
 The pains about the spine and chest, the 
 stricture of the lungs, catarrhal and asth- 
 matic symptoms, all subsided ; and long be- 
 fore eating anything I could walk the deck 
 without pain, and respire the pure air with 
 perfect ease. The winds became light, as 
 well as adverse, and kept us fourteen days 
 in making from lat. 28 to 23, about three 
 hundred miles. During this time sea-sickness 
 subsided, appetite returned, and well did I im- 
 prove it, insomuch that it was difficult to make 
 passengers believe the story of my sufferings 
 at home. My fellow-invalid also improved 
 enough to enable him to walk the deck, though 
 his symptoms remained bad. We filially got 
 a strong trade -wind from the south-east, 
 which brought us up before St. Thomas on 
 Christmas morning. A merry Christmas in- 
 deed, to find ourselves alongside the pictu- 
 resque landscape of St. Thomas, after a dreary 
 voyage of three weeks, with the monotonous 
 roar of the ocean for our only music. 
 
 The city of St. Thomas is situated on the
 
 32 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 south side of the island of that name, 18 20' 
 north latitude, at the head of a fine harbour, 
 running up about three miles from the ocean, 
 to the foot of a ridge of round-topped hills, 
 shooting up as regularly as though they had 
 been forced up by some volcanic eruption. A 
 smaller range of hills bounds the harbour on 
 either side, making the distance to the town, 
 when viewed from a vessel lying at its mouth, 
 appear less than half a mile. The buildings, 
 painted with various colours, rising gradually 
 one above another upon three separate eleva- 
 tions, with the deep green leaves of cocoa-nut 
 and palm trees interspersed among them, to- 
 gether with the majestic elevation in the rear, 
 presented a landscape picturesque and beauti- 
 ful beyond description. My impressions of 
 the place were of course decidedly favourable, 
 and would have remained so had I not gone 
 on shore and seen the town as it really is. 
 The streets are narrow ; the free circulation 
 of air is obstructed on either side ; and the 
 sun beats down with overpowering heat, ren- 
 dering it an unhealthy as well as unpleasant 
 place. The first information we got about the 
 place, was that many of the inhabitants were 
 down with fevers, and that there were three
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 33 
 
 cases in the family of one of our fellow-passen- 
 gers from New- York. This was of course satis- 
 factory evidence that St. Thomas was no place 
 for invalids ; and the fact that old inhabitants 
 afterwards visited St. Croix for their health, and 
 that sea-captains generally complained that 
 their men always got sick there, confirmed me 
 in the opinion. At night we made sail for St. 
 Croix, about forty miles to the south-east, and 
 the next morning, December 26th, found our- 
 selves in the harbour of Bassin, or Christian- 
 stadt. 
 
 A word of advice to invalids about passages 
 shall conclude this chapter. I have observed 
 that whenever most passengers go, the price is 
 highest, because it becomes an object for the 
 proprietors of vessels to combine to keep it up. 
 As for a few years past many have gone to St. 
 Croix, I found that packet ships asked one 
 hundred dollars, and brigs, &c. seventy-five to 
 eighty, for a passage of only fifteen hundred 
 miles, which is usually performed in twelve or 
 fifteen, and sometimes in eight or ten days ; 
 whereas very good transient vessels were glad 
 to take forty or fifty dollars to any of the West 
 India islands. Many passengers suppose that 
 they will be much more comfortable if they go
 
 34 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 in the vessel that charges highest. This is a 
 mistake. Those vessels are generally filled to 
 overflowing, which renders them extremely 
 uncomfortable in case of bad weather; and 
 besides, when there are so many, it becomes 
 almost impossible to get the requisite attention 
 from stewards, &c. &c. Secure a passage in 
 a good, strong, fast-sailing vessel, where there 
 are few passengers ; and, above all, keep clear 
 of a lower cabin when there is an upper one, 
 and the sufferings of a voyage will be greatly 
 diminished. There is a bad air in lower 
 cabins, especially in sugar vessels, that renders 
 them almost intolerable. I preferred sleeping 
 on the floor, for want of a better place above, 
 the three last nights of the voyage. These 
 may seem trifles to some, but not to those who 
 have been or expect to go to sea. If any 
 should doubt the correctness of these remarks, 
 let them try it, as I have, and they will then 
 be satisfied.
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 35 
 
 CHAPTER IV, 
 
 Bassin, or Christianstadt. 
 
 THE view of the town from the harbour is 
 picturesque, but not as beautiful as that of St. 
 Thomas. It is situated near the north end of 
 the island, at the foot of a range of hills seve- 
 ral hundred feet high, which extends along 
 the whole north-westerly shore. A consider- 
 able elevation projects out from the main 
 range, forming the easterly boundary of the 
 harbour ; but on the southerly side, the eleva- 
 tion is gradual, aifording a fine view of several 
 sugar plantations. The rich cane-fields on 
 the right, the deep foliage of the cocoa-nut 
 and palm trees in the distance, the windmills 
 of the sugar-houses crowning the summits of 
 several beautiful hills, with the town in front, 
 and the lofty mountains in the rear, rising 
 with all the stem and rugged majesty of Na- 
 ture's wildness, altogether presented a scene 
 variegated and delightful in the extreme to 
 one who had but just escaped from the ice- 
 bound regions of the north. Highly delight-
 
 36 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 ed as I was, there was one thing which struck 
 me unfavourably before going on shore, to 
 wit : the great humidity of the atmosphere. 
 Every thing appeared dripping with moisture, 
 and the physician from the town soon in- 
 formed us, that it was what they call the sick- 
 ly season, but that it was about over; that 
 some were now sick with fevers, and others 
 with fever and ague. This was rather un- 
 pleasant news to one who shuddered at the 
 idea of a damp climate. I had seen several 
 persons well acquainted with the island, and 
 had read some published descriptions of it, but 
 never heard of this humidity of atmosphere, 
 or one word about fever and ague abounding 
 there. However, we all went ashore, re- 
 solved to make the best of it. The signs of 
 moisture now became more and more appar- 
 ent, two or three showers happened while we 
 were getting on shore, with bright sun-shine 
 intervening between each; The moisture of 
 the ground, the mouldering appearance of the 
 brick and stone walls, and the decaying state 
 of the wooden buildings, all eloquently be- 
 spoke the dampness of the climate. I could 
 think of nothing but the idea of visiting a city 
 a week after the flood. However moist, the
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 37 
 
 atmosphere was warm, bland, and of even tem- 
 perature, inducing a very comfortable and se- 
 dentary feeling. Sea-sickness for the last 
 three days of the voyage had caused a tempo- 
 rary suspension of appetite, which returned 
 with double force, and the first meal showed 
 conclusively that the climate was favourable 
 to digestion ; and for several days, fearless of 
 dyspepsia, and all its consequences, I ate more 
 at a meal than I could have with safety 
 eaten in a whole week at New-York. There 
 was not a sign of cough, asthma, or catarrh, 
 and scarcely any of dyspepsia, remaining. So 
 rapid was the improvement, almost all my 
 clothing soon became too small, and after a 
 few days, every body would smile, when any- 
 thing was said about my being an invalid. 
 During the summer of 1838, which was cer- 
 tainly hot enough, I had not a moment of such 
 health as I now enjoyed. So great was the 
 contrast between present comfort and past 
 misery, that I walked forth in perfect ecstacy, 
 as though I had suddenly passed "from death 
 unto life" But what of the place ? It con- 
 tains about three thousand inhabitants, less 
 than three hundred of whom are whites, the 
 residue of every shade from jet black to light 
 4
 
 38 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 yellow, perhaps one quarter of them slaves, 
 the rest free, and without any apparent differ- 
 ence in manners, customs, dress, circum- 
 stances, or feelings, between them. Of course, 
 it is seldom that a white man, and much more 
 seldom that a white lady, is met in the street. 
 The houses are built with basements for 
 store-rooms, <fcc., &c., level with the street, 
 and one story above to reside in, with a gal- 
 lery, as it is here called, or kind of piazza, the 
 whole length in front. There are no side- 
 walks to the streets, and no pavements, the 
 soil making a hard, clean surface in spite of 
 rain. 
 
 To one accustomed to view the throng of 
 exquisitely dressed ladies and gentlemen, 
 constantly rushing along the sidewalks of 
 Broadway, and hear the deafening rattle of 
 carriages and carts, to find himself all at once 
 in a city where he sees only a crowd of bare- 
 foot, half naked negroes, straying carelessly 
 along the middle of the street, like so many 
 cattle, without a cart or carriage in motion, 
 or a sound heard except the gabble of the 
 negroes, the contrast is at once striking, 
 novel, and amusing. In general, all move, 
 and speak too, as deliberately as if Time had
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 39 
 
 folded up his wings. But there is now and 
 then an exception. For instance : occasion- 
 ally, a strapping bare-foot negro would run 
 through the street at the rate of seven knots, 
 with a hucket of water or a bundle of wood 
 on his head, balanced as well as though he 
 were standing perfectly still. 
 
 During the ten days I remained there, it 
 rained, on an average, four or five times a 
 day. The showers were short, and as a 
 scorching sun generally intervened, it was 
 never safe to go out for a moment without an 
 umbrella. It was generally considered, and I 
 have no doubt correctly too, that exposure 
 either to the sun or rain was dangerous even 
 to the inhabitants, and productive of certain 
 injury to strangers or invalids. The night air 
 was also damp and injurious ; and a current 
 of air at any time was studiously avoided by 
 everybody. The ladies of the place had 
 generally a pale, aguish countenance, and the 
 children were extremely subject to croup, 
 &c., &c. : a sure indication of the humidity 
 of the atmosphere. The heat in the day- 
 time was generally oppressive, the thermome- 
 ter ranging from 82 to 86 in the shade ; and 
 as it was unsafe to go out in the evening t
 
 40 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 there was but a little time for exercise, to wit, 
 about two hours in the morning, and two 
 more towards evening. 
 
 This was generally improved in riding : 
 the roads here being the finest in the world. 
 No such thing as mud or dust is ever known ; 
 and the rolling of the carriage-wheels upon 
 the hard smooth surface, makes music for the 
 ear, and gives a pleasure to riding unknown 
 anywhere else. Every invalid of course 
 avails himself of such a fine, healthful recrea- 
 tion; as a horse and gig may be hired for 
 thirty dollars per month, kept, harnessed, and 
 brought to the door whenever wanted, and a 
 saddle-horse for half that sum. 
 
 The scenery along the way is delightful 
 beyond description. At one moment you 
 wind around between two ranges of lofty 
 hills, and the next, rich level fields of cane 
 break upon your view, with the white walls 
 of a sugar-works and mansion-house upon 
 the summit of a hill in the distance, and a 
 wind-mill above the whole, swinging its long 
 arms like a mighty giant, inviting some val- 
 orous Don Quixote to mortal combat. On 
 the way-side are clusters of lime trees, with ripe 
 yellow fruit, contrasting finely with the deep
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 41 
 
 green foliage ; and the whole is adorned by 
 rows of palm trees, or mountain cabbage, as 
 they are here called, on each side, standing 
 as straight and true as so many architectural 
 columns of the most skilful workmanship 
 and finest proportions. The rides about this 
 place are considered by many more romantic 
 and variegated than those about West End, 
 or any other part of the island. 
 
 It will be perceived, that however benefi- 
 cial the climate may prove, with proper care 
 on the part of invalids, still, without the 
 greatest caution, there is constant danger in 
 so many particulars, that the requisite care is 
 burdensome and sometimes tedious. The 
 heat is much of the time oppressive, and al- 
 ways relaxing, and but little exercise can be 
 endured without great fatigue. Notwith- 
 standing all these inconveniences, however, 
 during the ten days passed here, I continued 
 rapidly to improve ; and, therefore, speaking 
 in general terms, ought to say that it was a 
 good climate for me at least. It was so, 
 compared with any I had' ever before known. 
 The bad, however, must be stated as well as 
 the good, so that invalid^ may judge for them- 
 selves. 
 
 4"
 
 42 A WHNTTER IN THE 
 
 There were only six or eight invalids at 
 this place, including my fellow-passengers 
 most of the Americans, on the whole, 
 preferring West End, a village about fifteen 
 miles distant. This is the capital of the 
 island ; the government-house and public 
 offices are of course here. There is nothing 
 splendid in any of the public edifices, and 
 contrary to my expectations, the gardens were 
 indifferent, and almost destitute of fruit. 
 Scarcely a hundred oranges could be found 
 upon the trees in all the city and suburbs. 
 There are several churches a Lutheran, 
 Catholic, and Episcopalian. The Lutheran 
 is the national religion of the Danes ; but a 
 mild system of toleration is adopted as to 
 other sects. 
 
 The English language is spoken here by 
 all the inhabitants, except some of the Danish 
 soldiers. There are almost as many English 
 and American inhabitants as Danes, and the 
 latter are generally more civil and polite to 
 visiters than the former. On the birth-day 
 of his Danish majesty, a ball is always given 
 at the government-house, to which the 
 American visiters are invited, and every 
 disposition appears to be manifested to make
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 43 
 
 the place a pleasant resort for invalids. 
 There are two boarding-houses here, but 
 they are not well supported, on account of 
 the general preference for West End. The 
 inhabitants of the place are very much sur- 
 prised at this strange perversion of taste in 
 the Americans, in preferring a place,, accord- 
 ing to their accounts, the very worst on 
 earth. They are almost indignant at any 
 one who attempts to speak favourably of West 
 End, and use every effort to prevent others 
 going there, telling strangers on their arrival 
 that the other place is without accommoda- 
 tions, &c. I was told on my arrival, 
 that it was impossible to get lodgings at 
 West End, but, to my surprise, found plenty 
 of room there after twenty more passengers 
 had arrived. If invalids wish to avoid dif- 
 ficulty, they had better form their own opin- 
 ions upon several little local matters, but not 
 by any means express them, as r in a small 
 community, every thing affecting the inter- 
 ests of the inhabitants is told from one end 
 of the island to the other in an incredibly 
 short time. 
 
 One accustomed to the style of furnishing 
 in the boarding-houses of our cities, may at
 
 44 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 first be somewhat surprised at the appear- 
 ance of a boarding-house in St. Croix. A 
 house white- washed outside, with a single 
 covering of boards, washed or painted with- 
 in, without ceiling overhead, except the roof, 
 with old shutters, and no blinds or glass to 
 the windows, with decaying boards for floors, 
 without carpets or other covering, and furni- 
 ture of the simplest and cheapest kind, a ta- 
 ble, some chairs, and a calico-covered sofa, in 
 the dining room, a bed, chair, and wash- 
 stand, in sleeping rooms, might not at 
 first seem exactly what he would wish, and 
 lead him to suspect that he had not found the 
 best place. But after becoming better ac- 
 quainted, and finding all other places about 
 the same, he will soon become perfectly satis- 
 fied, and in a short time feel disposed to 
 laugh at the extravagant superfluity of fine 
 furniture at the north. At New- York I had 
 boarded for five dollars per week, at a house 
 rented at twelve hundred dollars a year, and 
 furnished at an expense of several thousands ; 
 here I paid ten dollars per week at a house 
 which could be bought, lot and all, for twelve 
 hundred dollars, and containing altogether 
 
 ' O o 
 
 scarcely three hundred dollars' worth of fur-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 45 
 
 niture. The reason of the high price of 
 board is not the expense of provisions, for 
 they are generally low, nor of servants, for 
 slaves are bought at from one to three hun- 
 dred dollars, and hired for from two to four 
 dollars per month ; but because there are no 
 boarders to be had for one half of the year, 
 and the loss must be made up on the other. 
 A family wishing to spend the winter here, 
 and live economically, would do well to bring 
 out such articles of furniture as they might 
 want, take apartments, and keep house for 
 themselves. They can then live exactly to 
 suit them, which will not always be the case 
 at a boarding-house. Five to ten dollars per 
 month will hire a comfortable house, and there 
 are plenty to be had. A good living may be 
 procured at small expense. The meats of the 
 island are pretty good, and the fish are fine 
 beyond comparison, and almost beyond de- 
 scription. Plantains and bananas are at once 
 healthy and palatable, and the sweet potato is 
 far better than any we ever get at the north. 
 The oranges of St. Croix, though not abun- 
 dant, are unsurpassed in excellence. The 
 above mentioned articles, with plenty of good 
 bread, which can always be had, constitute
 
 46 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 not only a wholesome but luxurious diet. Let 
 no one be deterred from eating freely of these, 
 because the same or similar things have pro- 
 duced injurious effects at the north. The ef- 
 fect is quite different when eaten here. At 
 New- York I could only eat hard bread, and a 
 little roast or broiled meat, without vegetables 
 or fruit, and of those but a small quantity, 
 without severe indigestion and asthma. Here 
 I could eat to the extent of my appetite of 
 meats, vegetables, and fruit, with perfect impu- 
 nity. There are many other things which 
 may be acceptable to others, though not to 
 me. The yam and casaba root are used as a 
 substitute for the common potato, but I like 
 the plantain better; the forbidden fruit and 
 shattuck for oranges: they resemble the orange 
 in colour, are much larger, but are bitter to 
 the taste, and to me unpalatable. The messi- 
 ple, or apple of Venus, is liked by many ; the 
 mango, by some ; and the belle apple, when 
 just ripe enough, by almost every body. 
 Muskmelons are plenty, and rather better 
 than at the north, but are not a healthy fruit 
 anywhere. 
 
 These are a few of the novelties, at least in 
 winter, which the northern invalid has gained
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 47 
 
 by the exchange of climate. The living, how- 
 ever, at boarding-houses, does not generally 
 suit Americans. Danish flour, a little musty, 
 is sometimes preferred to American, because, 
 forsooth, there is twelve and a half per cent, 
 difference in the price, i. e. the amount of du- 
 ties. Danish butter and lard are perseverirfgly 
 pronounced better than American for the same 
 reason ; and because we ignorant Yankees dif- 
 fer with them in taste, and will not eat butter 
 resembling goose-oil and molasses, when set 
 upon the table, we are finely punished by 
 having it plentifully poured into all gravies, 
 worked into all sorts of cake and almost every 
 thing else. No allusion is had to any particu- 
 lar house, my intention being merely to men- 
 tion an evil which is quite common. There 
 are some exceptions. Much of the cake baked 
 at St. Croix, and which looks very finely too, 
 is a compound of old flour, bad lard, and worse 
 butter, well sweetened, stuck together, and half 
 baked. Fresh butter is made upon the island, 
 which many like because of its scarcity ; but 
 almost every one abandons the use of butter 
 altogether after a few days ; and if they could 
 keep it out of the cake and gravies, would be 
 satisfied withal. American butter might be
 
 48 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 brought here very sweet, but there is no mar- 
 ket for it, and therefore it does not come. 
 This particular detail of living is given to en- 
 able invalids to judge for themselves whether 
 to come prepared to keep house or rely upon 
 boarding-houses. 
 
 On this subject my remarks are founded 
 upon observations at West End, as well as at 
 Bassin, and met the concurrence of many 
 boarders at both places. With these evils 
 enough of good was mixed, however, to en- 
 sure a pretty good living at any of the board- 
 ing-houses, i. e. after a little experience in se- 
 lecting. The oranges, sweet potatoes, &c. &c. 
 could not be spoiled, but were sometimes not 
 found in sufficient quantity to supply the 
 demand.
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 49 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 West End, or Frederickstadt. 
 
 AFTER becoming pretty well acquainted with 
 the particulars of Bassin, it was natural to pay 
 a visit at least to West End, the general resort 
 of Americans. On leaving Bassin, which is 
 situate nearly on a level with the ocean, and 
 passing over the plantations situate under the 
 lee of the hills, and still elevated several hun- 
 dred feet from the shore, it was immediately 
 observed from the appearance of every thing-, 
 that it was impossible the frequent showers 
 we had lately had in town could have reached 
 here. The air was pure, dry, and elastic, 
 beyond any thing before observed. Gentle 
 breezes found their way through all the val- 
 leys, and over all the plains, banishing exces- 
 sive perspiration, increasing the strength and 
 enlivening the spirits, and giving a brisk mo- 
 tion to the windmills stationed on almost 
 every hill-top, like so many valorous defenders 
 of the high places ; the heavy rich growth of 
 cane was gently waving in the breeze, with a 
 5
 
 50 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 slight rustling murmur ; beautiful rows of or- 
 namental trees bordered the splendid road we 
 were passing; the warbling of birds was heard 
 among their branches ; small fleecy clouds 
 were floating in the heavens, alternately vary- 
 ing every view, from the brightest sunshine to 
 the deepest shade ; and every thing combined 
 to impress me with the idea of passing through 
 some enchanted land of the wildest romance, 
 rather than any reality of the earth. After a 
 ride of two hours and a half through scenes 
 constantly varying, but everywhere beautiful, 
 with a range of cultivated conical hills on the 
 right, and a view of the ocean over miles of 
 cane fields and groves of palm trees on the 
 left, the village of West End suddenly burst 
 upon the view. One of those slight momen- 
 tary showers which are common here, was 
 hanging over the village, throwing all the 
 colours of the rainbow over a scene which is 
 always surpassingly beautiful. The effect 
 was at once beautiful and sublime beyond de- 
 scription. The imagination of Mahomet could 
 not supply its equal with which to adorn his 
 Paradise. 
 
 This village is situate on open ground, gra- 
 dually rising from the shore, not hemmed in
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 51 
 
 by hills, like Bassin, but with plenty in per- 
 spective, to give grandeur as well as beauty to 
 the scenery, and is bounded on every side, ex- 
 cept the shore, with highly cultivated sugar 
 plantations. The streets are wider than those 
 of Bassin, and the buildings less compact, in a 
 better state of preservation, and more in Ameri- 
 can taste. There are also more gardens and 
 shrubbery about town ; and, what is observa- 
 ble at the first view, neither the buildings nor 
 the soil show such strong indications of fre- 
 quent rains. As near as I can judge, there are 
 about one thousand inhabitants in the village, 
 nearly half whites. The amount of mercan- 
 tile business is as much or more than that of 
 Bassin, and the number of vessels in the har- 
 bour about the same. Like almost every other 
 American, I at once fell into the notion that 
 this place was far superior to the other, and 
 determined to change my quarters. From five 
 or six weeks' residence here, visiting Bassin 
 occasionally, and making particular inquiries 
 of others, I was confirmed in the opinion that 
 there was not half as much rain, dampness of 
 atmosphere, or actual sickness, here as there. 
 Almost every body who left here in fair 
 weather, found it rainy or damp there, and
 
 52 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 those who left it wet there, found it dry here. 
 The account of the weather above given, there- 
 fore, is not accurate in application to West 
 End or the island in general. The frequency 
 of showers, however, was a general subject of 
 complaint even here. Although there were 
 some days when it did not rain at all, still two 
 or three showers a-day were very common, 
 and sometimes there were ten or a dozen, with 
 bright sunshine intervening. These showers 
 generally last but a few moments, and extend 
 but little distance; it being no uncommon 
 occurrence for one estate to get plenty of rain 
 while the next is parching with drought. 
 This frequency of rain, together with the rank 
 growth of vegetation, would make a very un- 
 healthy climate were it not for the nature of 
 the soil, (which does not retain the water, the 
 elevation of the land keeping it always dry,) 
 and the fine cultivation of almost every acre 
 of ground, except some of the steepest and 
 roughest hills. The rain washes away every 
 impurity. There is no low land or stagnant 
 water ; and there is scarcely any sickness, ex- 
 cept from direct exposure to rain, night air, or 
 sunshine. With proper care, therefore, it is a 
 good climate for invalids from the north who
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 53 
 
 need only evenness of temperature and elasti- 
 city of atmosphere. With all the beneficial 
 effects I experienced, however, it was difficult 
 to become reconciled to the idea of closing 
 windows the moment the sun set or a shower 
 arose, of keeping close in the evening and 
 through all the middle of the day. An attack 
 of catarrh and asthma at night was sure to 
 follow exposure to the evening air; and on 
 several occasions, during the month of Janu- 
 ary, my old difficulties came upon me with 
 sufficient severity to cause restless nights, with 
 a severe turn of asthma and cough towards 
 morning. In spite of all this, however, my 
 general health kept improving, and my weight 
 increased seven or eight pounds in a month. 
 Many others found themselves daily increasing 
 in weight and substance, as well as in health 
 and spirits, and there was a general expression 
 in favour of the climate : some, however, con- 
 sidered it very bad. In regard to the moisture 
 and frequent showers, it is fair to state, that 
 so rainy a winter had not been known there 
 for several years, if the statements of the in- 
 habitants are to be relied upon. 
 
 As to medical attendance; the very best can 
 5*
 
 54 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 be procured at St. Croixj several eminent 
 physicians residing there, one of whom, Dr. 
 Steadman, of West End, had a hemorrhage at 
 the lungs at the age of eighteen, came there 
 for his health, and now looks hardy and ro- 
 bust at the age of about sixty. The charges 
 for medical attendance are moderate. 
 
 There were six boarding-houses here, en- 
 tertaining in all about seventy American 
 boarders, about one half of whom were inva- 
 lids, and the residue their husbands, wives, or 
 companions : of course, every house was filled 
 to overflowing. The board of the whole at 
 ten dollars per week amounts to two thou- 
 sand eight hundred dollars per month, and in 
 six months, to nearly twenty thousand 
 dollars: a considerable little revenue for a 
 small village. The inhabitants may well feel 
 disposed to encourage American visiters to 
 come here, and try to please them when they 
 get here. Rent is very low, and keeping 
 boarders must be profitable. One establish- 
 ment, which cost only three thousand dollars, 
 kept seventeen boarders. There are plenty of 
 small houses, suitable for single private fami- 
 lies, to be had at about eight dollars per month ;
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 55 
 
 and although it might cost some trouble, I can 
 but think many would prefer keeping house 
 to boarding, if they could come from home 
 well prepared. Besides the objections to 
 boarding before mentioned, there are some 
 others, more apparent here than at Bassin. 
 The great number of invalids makes it seem 
 more like a hospital than a boarding-house, 
 and nervous people are not at all benefitted by 
 having so many patients before their eyes, 
 hearing the stories of their sufferings, and 
 sympathising in their despair. A person, how- 
 ever, who is not alarmed at beholding hard 
 cases of disease, will find some, if not all, of 
 these boarding-houses very comfortable, in res- 
 pect of rooms, settees, &c. &c. 
 
 Another objection that weighs with some,, is 
 that ten or fifteen Americans, especially from 
 the same city, cannot spend six months 
 together in the same house, and with nothing 
 else to do, without getting up some petty mis- 
 chief-making scheme or other, or without 
 some of them attempting to show their supe- 
 riority over others, either in point of wealth, 
 standing, etiquette, or extravagance, in such 
 manner as seriously to annoy any one who
 
 56 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 has too much sense to participate in such con- 
 temptible efforts. A sly, cunning, knowing, 
 sort of a fool, that tells all news, and knows 
 everybody's business in advance, and always 
 gets it wrong ; a jesting fellow, always dealing 
 in inuendoes and putting everybody to the 
 trouble of deciding whether jesting, or in 
 earnest ; a dandy clerk, with a salary of three 
 hundred a year, strutting in ruffles, and ridi- 
 culing every body behind his notions of fash- 
 ionable dress ; or what is worse than either, 
 one of Nature's little great men, eternally in- 
 sinuating that nobody can be anything who 
 does not come up to him, in eating and drink- 
 ing according to fashion, or amount of expen- 
 ditures, when perhaps his creditors at home 
 are wondering why he does not pay his debts ; 
 or some other equally disgusting and unen- 
 durable bore, is almost sure to be found at a 
 public boarding-house, and to be a greater 
 cause of annoyance than any one can imagine 
 before he has tried it. T^o set off against evils 
 of this sort, however, almost every place 
 affords an acquaintance with some who are at 
 once talented, intelligent, and polite, and 
 whose valuable society would be lost, or at
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 57 
 
 least but partially enjoyed by one who should 
 avoid a boarding-house. These are small 
 matters, but it is better to consider them in 
 advance, as they are sure to be thought of at 
 some time. 
 
 Of the invalids here, three died during the 
 months of December and January, being 
 hopeless cases of consumption, from their 
 first start from home ; two or three other cases 
 of far-gone consumption derived but little 
 advantage from the climate. Some five or 
 six others were much improved, and their 
 sufferings much alleviated, without any very 
 encouraging appearance of ultimate recovery ; 
 five or six had every appearance of perfect 
 health, after severe attacks of hemorrhage at 
 the lungs at the north ; and four or five cases 
 of asthma were now, as they had before been, 
 entirely relieved, while remaining in a tropical 
 climate, but had found the disease return on 
 going north heretofore, and no doubt will find 
 the same result again. The effect of the 
 change of climate upon persons afflicted with 
 catarrh, asthma, and bronchitis, is at the same 
 time so certain and beneficial, that those who 
 have been thus afflicted for any considerable
 
 58 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 length of time, had better abandon the north 
 at once, and keep themselves between the 
 tropics, where they can enjoy a good degree of 
 health and comfort, in lieu of a life of severe 
 affliction, and premature death, in the damp, 
 chilly regions of their own country. It is 
 hard to quit all, and go, but harder still, to stay 
 and suffer. 
 
 It was probably not the fault of the cli- 
 mate in some cases which prevented the im- 
 provement of invalids ; but merely their 
 own carelessness and imprudence, in ex- 
 posing themselves to the evening air, dining 
 out, staying late, and eating extravagantly, 
 drinking champagne, &c., &c. Some who 
 were almost daily expectorating blood, in- 
 dulged themselves in such imprudent experi- 
 ments. The ordinary hour of dining with 
 the Danes is 5 o'clock, p. M., consequently, 
 no one dines out without making an evening 
 affair of it. It may seem strange that an in- 
 valid should think of such a thing ; but feel- 
 ing so much better here than at home, and 
 the strong desire to do something to break in 
 
 o o 
 
 upon the dull monotony of the life he is liv- 
 ing, naturally lead him to venture upon
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 59 
 
 indulgences he would never think of at 
 home. 
 
 The first three or four weeks at West 
 End passes off pretty comfortable. Picking 
 up shells upon the shore amuses for a while ; 
 riding affords a recreation not quite so soon 
 worn out. Two hours' ride, in two or three 
 different directions, carries one over the best 
 roads and through some of the finest sceneiy 
 on earth. In a carriage, you may ride three 
 or four miles along a clear little creek, wind- 
 ing about between hills from 500 to 1000 feet 
 high, rising precipitately on each side, and 
 still covered with cane to the very summit ; 
 with clusters of limes, oranges, shattucks, 
 and forbidden fruit, scattered along the banks 
 of the stream and margin of the way, almost 
 within reach ; with a thick growth of wild 
 and fragrant flowers scattered beneath ; or 
 on horseback, you may ascend at once the 
 loftiest summits, Mount Washington and 
 Signal Hill, nearly a thousand feet high, 
 with not only roads, but rows of ornamental 
 trees across them, and look down upon the 
 whole island, spread out below, like a beau- 
 tiful and highly cultivated garden. Scenes
 
 60 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 like these are delightful, but the novelty 
 soon wears away, and it seems dull and mo- 
 notonous to be always riding over the same 
 ground. Dullness was a very genuine com- 
 plaint, especially among those who were 
 well, much more so than it would be under 
 similar circumstances at the north ; because 
 here the climate predisposes to a kind of 
 mental indolence, which renders it almost 
 impossible to read. The attention and mem- 
 ory both fail, and the book is soon thrown 
 aside for something more exciting, if it can 
 be found. As to the climate, however, al- 
 though some dislike it, a majority of the visi- 
 ters considered it decidedly the most favour- 
 able for invalids of any within their know- 
 ledge. As to myself, however, my health 
 growing worse along the latter part of 
 January, I determined to make the trial of 
 some others during the winter, if an oppor- 
 tunity should offer ; and, accordingly, en- 
 gaged a passage for Trinidad de Cuba, 
 early in February. I have now given all 
 the material circumstances of my residence 
 at the two villages, and a brief general 
 description of the island will close my re-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 61 
 
 marks upon St. Croix, and enable every 
 reader to see the whole before him, precisely 
 as he will find it if he ever goes there : the 
 good and the bad, fairly and faithfully de- 
 tailed, without fear, favour, affection, or the 
 hope of reward. Those interested may give 
 a more flattering account, but I can only give 
 it just as I found it.
 
 62 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Santa Cruz in General. 
 
 ST. CROIX is an island, about eighteen miles 
 long, situated in latitude 17 45' north, lon- 
 gitude - west of Greenwich. It is al- 
 most exclusively devoted to the cultivation of 
 sugar-cane, and the manufacture of sugar, 
 molasses, and rum. In a good season it pro- 
 duces from fifty to sixty thousand hogsheads 
 of muscovado sugar of the best quality. It is 
 generally calculated that the molasses and 
 rum will pay all the contingent expenses of 
 the estates ; leaving the sugar for clear in- 
 come, which at seventy-five dollars the hogs- 
 head, for which it is generally sold there, in 
 a good season, amounts to three millions 
 seven hundred and fifty thousand dollars. 
 This great revenue is produced by the care- 
 ful cultivation of almost every inch of the 
 soil, the estates generally consisting of but 
 one hundred and fifty to three hundred acres 
 each ; and nearly one hundred negroes being 
 employed upon each one hundred and fifty
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 63 
 
 acres. The soil is dry and sweet, producing 
 the best cane, and consequently the best su- 
 gar known. I had heard much of filthiness 
 in the manufacture of sugar and molasses, 
 but the first view of a St. Croix sugar-works 
 contradicted it. The kettles, the vats in 
 which the sugar is cooled, the hogsheads in 
 which it is drained, and even the molasses 
 vats under them, are so perfectly neat and 
 clean, that no one who has seen them can 
 feel any squeamishness in eating St. Croix 
 sugar, or molasses either. To look at a vat- 
 full, a foot deep, just chrystalizing over the 
 surface, and perfectly transparent to the bot- 
 tom, would satisfy the most scrupulous upon 
 this point. There is about twenty-five thou- 
 sand black, and three thousand white popu- 
 lation. Of course, it is seldom a white man 
 is seen in riding through the island. 
 
 Many of the blacks are free, and the slaves, 
 by the protection afforded them by the Dan- 
 ish laws, are about as well satisfied with 
 slavery as they would be with freedom. No 
 slave can be taken from the island without 
 security for his or her return ; masters can- 
 not inflict punishment without the interven- 
 tion of public authority ; no slave can be
 
 64 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 sold against his or her consent, except with 
 the estate ; and cheap and easy provisions are 
 made for emancipation. Such is the ex- 
 pectation of a general abolition, that the 
 prices of slaves are only about one fourth 
 as high as in the United States. In the vil- 
 lage of Christianstadt, a large proportion of 
 the retail trade, and nearly all the mechan- 
 ical labour, is in the hands of the free 
 blacks and mulattoes ; and the politeness, in- 
 telligence, and ability of some of these, would 
 surprise those who think their race by Nature 
 unfit for freedom. Many of them have good 
 countenances, are well behaved, and appear 
 to evince as much discretion and judgment 
 as whites under similar circumstances. Some 
 of them hold commissions in the militia ser- 
 vice ; one has been promoted to the distin- 
 guished situation of Governor's aid-de-camp ; 
 and instead of considering the race as on a 
 level with brutes, many of the white inhabit- 
 ants deem them nearly, if not quite, on a 
 level with themselves. I listened for a whole 
 evening to a very warm discussion of the 
 question, whether a lady would be justified 
 in refusing to dance with a negro or mu-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 65 
 
 latto at a ball ; and the negative was not 
 wanting in supporters. 
 
 It is almost surprising, that so small a num- 
 ber of proprietors should have had the public 
 spirit and perseverance to make such costly 
 fine roads, not only as public highways 
 whenever needed, but should also have made 
 a good private road around almost every es- 
 tate ; beautifully ornamenting both with 
 palm and cocoa-nut trees, which cut the 
 whole into squares, and add much to the 
 beauty of the scenery. On each estate there 
 are generally a fine mansion, a sugar-house, 
 windmill, and plenty of negro-houses, all sit- 
 uate upon an eminence and interspersed with 
 fruit and ornamental trees. Little attention 
 is given, however, to the cultivation of fruits, 
 and, in many places, not an orange will be 
 seen for miles. Sugar-cane seems to have 
 engrossed the whole attention of the inhabi- 
 tants, and crowded out almost every thing 
 else. 
 
 The fact, that sugar-houses are worked by 
 wind-mills, is good evidence that there are 
 plenty of breezes. They almost always blow 
 from north-east to south-east ; and such is 
 the evenness of temperature, that the ther-
 
 66 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 raometer varies but about four degrees from 
 calm to breeze, and vice versa. The varia- 
 tion is seldom greater between night and day, 
 and there is, on an average, less than ten 
 degrees difference between winter and sum- 
 mer ; during the former ranging from 82 to 
 86, and the latter from 88 to 93 or 94. 
 The inhabitants have their fevers in the 
 winter season only, and never very severely. 
 It is a very common thing to hear one ob- 
 serve, "such a one got the fever the other 
 day, but he is up again." American visiters. 
 in some instances, had a slight attack, but 
 very seldom. On the whole, therefore, it 
 must be pronounced a very good climate, not- 
 withstanding the frequency of showers, and 
 other evils before mentioned. Upon careful 
 examination, I concluded that the fever and 
 ague scarcely ever occurred, except in situa- 
 tions about level with the sea, where little 
 creeks from the ocean set up into the land, 
 with a rank growth of vegetation along the 
 shore, as at and about Bassin ; and that stran- 
 gers were not subject to it, even there, with- 
 out unnecessary exposure. 
 
 Near Bassin is an estate called Richmond, 
 beautifully situated, where invalids have oc-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 67 
 
 casionally been entertained. The mansion- 
 house is finely situated on a gentle elevation 
 of ground, at a distance of forty or fifty rods 
 from the street, with a fine private road 
 adorned with columns of Thibet trees, leading 
 to it ; is surrounded by a fine growth of fruit, 
 and other ornamental trees, furnishing several 
 shady walks ; commands a fine view of the 
 harbour, and the ocean, on one side, and the 
 mountains on the other ; and on the whole, 
 has a very fascinating appearance to stran- 
 gers. Learning that an American family 
 was stopping there, I called for the purpose of 
 procuring accommodations, in what I con- 
 sidered the most beautiful situation in the 
 vicinity of Bassin ; but could not obtain the 
 situation, on account of the sickness of its 
 proprietor. He was under the influence of a 
 severe attack of ague, and his countenance 
 was as pallid and woe-begone as any I ever 
 witnessed, in the worst fever and ague re- 
 gions in Illinois and Ohio. It occurred to 
 me, at the time, that his disease must be ow- 
 ing to the moisture caused by the rank 
 growth of plants and trees about his house, 
 and a little creek near it, along which was a 
 growth of trees with foliage of that deep
 
 68 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 green that indicates richness and dampness 
 of soil. Upon inquiry, I ascertained that al- 
 most every family of Americans that have 
 stopped at the house, have been visited with 
 similar attacks, and in some cases with severe 
 fevers. In the winter of 1836-7, Mr. Blake, 
 of Boston, took lodgings there, with his wife 
 and several children, every one of whom 
 had fevers, or fever and ague. This is 
 enough to show the great importance of se- 
 lecting a dry situation. Humidity should be 
 avoided as the invalid's worst enemy, not 
 excepting cold. 
 
 With a knowledge of all these particulars,, 
 invalids and their friends can judge upon the 
 propriety of their visiting St. Croix. The 
 difficulty of getting accommodations in some, 
 and of foreign languages in others, of the 
 West India islands, has in a great measure 
 prevented a fair trial of other places ; and this 
 being best known, and most accessible, has 
 very naturally been preferred, and whatever 
 may be the advantages of other places,, will, 
 no doubt, by many, continue to be preferred 
 to all others. 
 
 The currency of St. Croix consists of bank 
 notes and base coin, with as much gold and
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 69 
 
 silver as they can get. The standard of 
 value is pieces of weight, of sixty-four cents 
 each, without any coin to represent it; sti- 
 vers seventy-five to the dollar, made of pew- 
 ter, or something like that, and old bits of 
 five stivers each, of the same coin. This 
 does not much concern an American, except 
 to have none of their money on leaving, as it 
 is good no where else. But one thing is 
 worthy of the traveller's attention, i. e. the 
 kind of money he brings from home. A 
 Spanish doubloon passes for no more than a 
 patriot, whereas there is generally a dollar 
 difference at New- York. There is generally 
 a gain on the latter of twenty-five to fifty 
 cents, on coming here, whereas on Spanish 
 there is a loss of seventy-five, or thereabouts, 
 as they pass here for only sixteen dollars, and 
 generally cost sixteen seventy-five in New- 
 York, and are always worth seventeen at 
 Havana. 
 
 One word as to passports, and I shall have 
 done with St. Croix. The Danish authorities 
 require no passport from Americans on their 
 arrival ; but only that passengers should call at 
 the police office, and report themselves. There 
 is no necessity therefore for a passport, from
 
 70 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 our Government, or from the Danish consul in 
 our country. I understood the Danish consul 
 at New- York gave several passports at two 
 dollars and a half each, telling passengers that 
 it would be necessary to have one, or would 
 preclude the necessity of paying for one on 
 leaving the island ; but they were of no use 
 whatever, because not required. On leaving 
 the island, however, a passport must be taken 
 out here, for which the fee' is nine dollars 
 sixty-four cents, to the United States, two dol- 
 lars and a half to St. Thomas, and four dollars 
 to Porto Rico. This is a contrivance to raise 
 money, and as it is imposed upon their own 
 citizens, as well as foreigners, we cannot so 
 much complain. It is, however, at once un- 
 just towards the Americans, and impolitic in 
 the Santa Crucians. Eight or nine hundred 
 dollars was extorted from us this year, 
 whereas, Danish subjects may freely come to, 
 go through, and depart from our country, 
 without passport, or paying fees. The Go- 
 vernment will probably find it for their inter- 
 est, if not to dispense with the passport, at 
 least to reduce the fee. Although not ne- 
 cessary, it is always advisable for every Ameri- 
 can, on leaving his country, to obtain a pass-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 71 
 
 port from the Secretary of State, and in going 
 to most countries it is necessary to have it pre- 
 sented to and endorsed by a consul, in our coun- 
 try, of the country to be visited. In case, there- 
 fore, of concluding to go to other countries, the 
 passport from home saves some trouble, as I 
 have dearly learned by being without one. 
 It is not very consoling to an American, to be 
 told he cannot go where he pleases, and frus- 
 trated in all his plans.
 
 72 \ WINTER IN THE 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Voyago to Trinidad de Cuba. 
 
 IT is worthy of remark, as showing the great 
 ignorance that prevails as to this as well as 
 many other places in the West Indies, that 
 my friends expressed the greatest surprise at 
 my thinking of going to such a sickly place. 
 Several assured me that the yellow fever pre- 
 vailed there at all seasons; that the inhabit- 
 ants were nearly barbarous ; that there was 
 great danger of robbery ; and that it would be 
 impossible to get a comfortable living, or to 
 get away by land except by mounting a mule, 
 as no horses could be had there. As the cap- 
 tain I was going with was an old trader to 
 that place, information was easily obtained 
 from him which quieted all such apprehen- 
 sions ; and on the evening of the sixth of 
 February I was again upon the waters, 
 stretching my way before a whole-sail trade- 
 wind at the rate of nine knots an hour. In 
 three days we passed along the south side of 
 Porto Rico and St. Domingo, with the high
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 73 
 
 lands of one or the other constantly in sight to 
 the very southwesterly extremity of the latter, 
 where the trade-winds demurred to going any 
 further, and left us becalmed for three or four 
 days, with as bright a sky and pure an at- 
 mosphere as mortal ever beheld or breathed. 
 The trades are broken by the high promon- 
 tory at the S. W. extremity of St. Domingo 
 and the elevated lands of Jamaica, nearly 
 south, a distance of only about eighty miles ; 
 and consequently the places to the westward 
 are not, like St. Croix and all the Windward 
 Islands, regularly visited by the plentiful sup- 
 ply of moisture brought by a wind regularly 
 sweeping two thousand miles of ocean, and 
 always attracted to the first land it meets in 
 the shape of copious and frequent showers. 
 The generally moist appearance of the land 
 to the windward, and the extreme drought to 
 the leeward, no less than the striking change 
 
 * O O 
 
 in the air as soon as the trade-winds ceased, 
 confirmed me strongly in this opinion. Here 
 the atmosphere was so pure that we could 
 distinctly see Jamaica and Cuba at the same 
 time, where they are nearly one hundred 
 miles apart. A land-breeze from the Cuba 
 shore carried us to Trinidad on the tenth 
 7
 
 74 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 day of the voyage. The whole distance is 
 about one thousand miles ; and the passage 
 was only sixteen dollars in a good brig, with 
 good accommodations. It was decidedly the 
 pleasantest, as well as the cheapest passage, 
 I had ever made. Although sea-sick part of 
 the time, my health greatly improved during 
 the voyage, the symptoms of asthma and ca- 
 tarrh which had been gradually returning 
 upon me during the latter part of January, 
 having entirely vanished ; and when the 
 blue mountains of Trinidad, piled to the very 
 skies in the rear of the city as a barrier 
 against north winds, showed by their with- 
 ered herbage and dry sand-banks along their 
 base, the entire absence of humidity, and 
 the exhilarating mountain breeze restored 
 energy to the body and sprightliness to the 
 mind, I could not but rejoice at the fortu- 
 nate exchange of places ; and instead of go- 
 ing ashore with the feelings of a stranger 
 in a strange land, mine were much more like 
 those of an exile returning to his home after 
 a banishment for years to some cold, inhos- 
 pitable region.
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 75 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Trinidad do Cuba. 
 
 THE city of Trinidad is situate in the pro- 
 vince of the same name, on the south side of 
 the island of Cuba, at lat. about 21 42' N. 
 
 The site of the town is a rising ground, 
 near the foot of a lofty range of mountains 
 running east and west, about four miles from 
 the port of Casilda, through which all its 
 commercial business is transacted, it being 
 the only port of entry in the province. 
 There is a good harbor, and many vessels, 
 principally American, go there for sugars 
 and molasses, generally disposing of their 
 outward cargoes elsewhere. In the year 
 1838, about one hundred American vessels 
 cleared from that port a larger number 
 than those of all other nations together. 
 The export of sugar and molasses is about one 
 and a half to two millions of dollars annu- 
 ally, besides a considerable amount of coffee, 
 tobacco, segars, wild honey, and beeswax. 
 It will be perceived, therefore, that the com-
 
 76 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 mercial importance of the place is considera- 
 ble ; and still there is not a single vessel 
 regularly trading there from New- York, or 
 scarcely a New- York merchant who has any 
 considerable trade with the place. Portland, 
 Boston, Philadelphia, and Charleston, nearly 
 engross the trade. Casilda has about five 
 hundred, and Trinidad about ten thousand 
 inhabitants, about one half of whom are 
 slaves. It is the seat of government of the 
 province ; has considerable internal trade ; 
 and on the whole is a pretty, thriving, stirring 
 place for a Spanish city; but dull enough 
 compared with what it would be in the hands 
 of Americans. ' In the United' States it would 
 be a strange thing to see a city of ten thou- 
 sand inhabitants carrying on a large commer- 
 cial business through a port four miles distant, 
 and transporting all their merchandize upon 
 ox-carts, when a railroad would accomplish 
 the same thing at one quarter the expense. 
 But here, it is enough that a thing has been 
 done in a particular manner. It must con- 
 tinue to be done in the same manner. It 
 does no good to suggest improvements. The 
 answer always is, " We get along very well
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 77 
 
 as things are. We are not fond of experi- 
 ments," &c. &c. 
 
 The Trinidad river, a clear, chrystal little 
 stream, comes down from the mountains, run- 
 ning along by the westerly side of the city 
 and furnishing a plentiful supply of fine wa- 
 ter. It is so perfectly clear, as to need no 
 filtering, and is as fine water to drink as 
 abounds anywhere, not excepting the pure 
 streams from the Green Mountains in Ver- 
 mont. It is- dipped up, put in jugs, swung 
 across mules and horses, and thus carried 
 constantly to all parts of the city. This keeps 
 the street leading to it continually thronged 
 with water-carriers there being more slaves 
 and beasts thus employed than would be re- 
 quired to construct, in six months, water- 
 works that would conduct a supply to every 
 house in the city. But this would savour 
 too much of improvement. They are very 
 well satisfied as it is, and what do they want 
 more? 
 
 Before going to the city I remained a day 
 or two at Casilda. The land for a mile along 
 the beach is low and sandy, and the shore is 
 bordered by a growth of bushes, under which 
 the tide ebbs and flows. These circum- 
 7*
 
 78 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 stances, together with the fact that several 
 seamen on board vessels in the harbour 
 were down with fevers, led me to suspect 
 the place unhealthy. But on examination 
 and inquiry, I learned to my entire satisfac- 
 tion, that notwithstanding these appearances, 
 even the port of Casilda, which is far less fa- 
 vourably situate than Trinidad, was as 
 healthy as any in the West Indies. The 
 water circulates freely through the bushes ; 
 the shore is dry ; and as to the fevers, in 
 every instance they had occurred on board 
 vessels just arrived from St. Jago de Cuba, 
 Kingston, Jamaica, or St. Thomas. Masters 
 of vessels who had traded there for twenty 
 years, assured me that they never had a man 
 sicken while lying in that port, but that they 
 scarcely ever went to either of the above 
 named places, but some of their men 
 had severe attacks of fever. As many of 
 the vessels trading here were in the habit of 
 discharging their outward cargoes at one of 
 those places, and coming directly here for 
 homeward freights, the frequent cases of 
 fever imported from thence had given rise to 
 such rumours as those I heard at St. Croix, 
 about yellow fever prevailing here. So ter-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 79 
 
 rible is the horror of this disease, especially 
 at the north, where it is little known, that 
 there are thousands who could not be per- 
 suaded to go to a place where it was ru- 
 moured to prevail, on any consideration ; 
 supposing death would be almost inevi- 
 table. Whereas, it is nothing more or less 
 than a severe attack of bilious fever ; and 
 with prompt treatment, is cured nine cases 
 out of ten. Two of the men on board the 
 vessel I came in, which had been lying some 
 time at St. Thomas, had attacks on the pas- 
 sage ; and for want of a physician, I bled, 
 gave emeticks, and cured them. The inhab- 
 itants of Casilda, one and all, declared that 
 the place was entirely healthy. 
 
 Two or three days after my arrival, in 
 company with a fellow-passenger, I took a 
 catrina (as it is here called,) and rode to 
 town. It was nothing more nor less, in plain 
 English, than a horse and gig, with a negro 
 boy mounted on the horse as a substitute for 
 reins. This mode of riding did not suit us 
 exactly, the negro not understanding a word 
 of English, nor we of Spanish, leaving us en- 
 tirely at his mercy, as to where and how he 
 should go. My companion expressed some
 
 80 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 concern at another thing, to wit : that the 
 horse was such a perfect phantom of an ani- 
 mal, and the negro so small, that if we should 
 happen to lean back in our seats, the whole 
 concern would be thrown over our heads in 
 a backward somerset. Our fears were soon 
 quieted, for away we went upon a full gal- 
 lop, over stones a foot high, and holes as deep, 
 for four miles, all the way up hill, and arrived 
 in perfect safety. As to the animal, he had 
 been gallopped up and down that sandy road, 
 in the hot sun, so long, that he showed no 
 symptoms of fatigue, and appeared no more 
 capable of perspiration than the dry sand he 
 travelled over. There are a great many of 
 these catrinas constantly running up and 
 down for passengers, at seventy-five cents a 
 trip, each way, for two or one. A stage also 
 goes once or twice a day, each way, at fifty 
 cents a passenger. The road is wide enough 
 for several tracks, so as to admit of full 
 speed in spite of the ox-carts strung along 
 the way. As we ascended towards the city, 
 with its neat picturesque view before us, and 
 the exhilarating mountain breeze absorbing 
 
 o 3 
 
 perspiration and neutralizing the effect of a 
 noon-day sun, I could not help thinking of,
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 81 
 
 and feeling too, the favourable contrast be- 
 tween this place and St. Croix, in almost 
 every particular that concerns an invalid. 
 Strike out the good roads, English language, 
 and boarding-houses of St. Croix, and there 
 would be nothing left that would bear any 
 comparison with Trinidad. 
 
 On entering the city, my first favourable 
 impressions were strongly confirmed. The 
 streets are regular, well paved, and clean ; 
 the houses generally of stone, whitewashed 
 outside, tiled roofs, one story high, with brick 
 or stone floors laid on the ground, and the 
 wood-work inside of red cedar : built in this 
 manner, they are cheap, cool, comfortable, and 
 almost everlasting. As there was not a single 
 person in the place I had ever seen, and there 
 were no American boarding-houses, I felt 
 some apprehension about comfortable quar- 
 ters. I had, however, a letter of introduction 
 from the Vice-Consul at St. Croix to the Con- 
 sul at Trinidad, whomsoever he might be, 
 and the master of the vessel had introduced 
 me to the consignee ; and with these aids I 
 went on, without further concern. The 
 Consul received me very politely, and invited 
 me to dine with him, and, if I could not do
 
 82 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 better, to take board at the same place he did, 
 finding a room elsewhere, and furnishing it 
 for myself. He had done so himself, and for- 
 merly ate at a Spanish tavern, of which there 
 were plenty, supplying two meals at one dol- 
 lar per day, but he found the living too bad to 
 be continued, and had now, together with three 
 or four other American boarders, hired a neigh- 
 bour to give them their meals in the best room 
 of a cigar manufactory. I mention these 
 circumstances to show that style of living was 
 here but little thought of. Many of the first 
 business men in the place have their tables set 
 in the stores or shops, always taking care, 
 however, to have something good to eat upon 
 them, which is not always the case at the 
 Spanish taverns, where the table is set on 
 speculation at fifty cents a meal. After dining 
 with the consul, I was soon made acquainted 
 with all the Americans in the place, about 
 fifteen in number, also with several Spanish 
 merchants and planters, who spoke English. 
 Mr. Lynn, a merchant, formerly of Charleston, 
 S. C., ordered my baggage sent to his house, 
 and very politely invited me to take my meals 
 with him while I remained in town, refusing 
 
 i O ' 
 
 however, to receive any compensation what-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 83 
 
 ever. His wife was a Spanish lady, and of 
 course the mode of living was Spanish ; but I 
 must say it suited me as well as any I had 
 ever found : a cup of coffee, without milk, in 
 the morning ; breakfast, with coffee and milk, 
 at 9 o'clock A. M. ; dinner at 3 p. M., with sweet- 
 meats for dessert, followed by coffee and cigars ; 
 and a cup of chocolate, &c., in the evening. 
 The market supplies plenty of good beef, pork, 
 fowls, wild birds, &c. &c., with plenty of good 
 vegetables, such as sweet potatoes, plantains, 
 bananas, cabbages, turnips, radishes, &c. &c. 
 Indian corn flourishes at all times of the year, 
 and there is always plenty of green corn in 
 the market. The domestic rice is very good, 
 and is much used. There are generally or- 
 anges in the market, but not in abundance; 
 pine-apples in their season, &c. &c. The 
 river water is extremely good, and, on the 
 whole, no one can wish a better living than 
 can here be had ; but a tavern is not the place 
 to look for it. Whenever invalids have been 
 here, they have generally stopped with some 
 of the few American families ; and many have, 
 no doubt, been deterred from coming from an 
 apprehension of being a burthen to those who 
 were not prepared to entertain boarders, and
 
 84 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 were unwilling to receive any compensation 
 from those who were taken in, because they 
 had nowhere else to go. 
 
 As to climate, no place can offer greater 
 advantages to invalids than this. For nine 
 months in the year no such thing as rain is 
 ever known, except, perhaps, sprinkles of two 
 or three minutes, and those like angels' visits, 
 " few and far between." Hence the dryness 
 of soil, which admits of laying the floors on the 
 ground. At first I could not believe it possi- 
 ble for the air of the room to be dry, but dur- 
 ing a fortnight found no more appearance of 
 moisture in the air, than if the floor had been 
 ten feet from the ground, and made of two 
 thicknesses of kiln-dried plank. At first I 
 kept myself in during the evening, supposing 
 the night air might be like that of St. Croix, 
 but soon found it entirely harmless. Indeed, 
 the evening was much pleasanter than the 
 day time, for it was always warm enough, 
 and never too warm. The entire absence of 
 moisture in the atmosphere gives a clearness 
 to the sky and a brilliancy to the moon-light, 
 beyond anything I ever witnessed else- 
 where. It is a common practice here to sit 
 in the evening uncovered in the open air, a
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 85 
 
 thing that would very properly have been 
 looked upon as madness at St. Croix. At 
 times, however, the north wind prevails 
 with sufficient force to make the evenings un- 
 pleasant, and, as a general rule, delicate inva- 
 lids had better not expose themselves to the 
 evening air, except in the mildest weather. 
 The mountains, though near enough to pre- 
 vent excessive heat, are too far distant to 
 cause sudden transitions of temperature. The 
 absence of moisture in the atmosphere may 
 not prove beneficial to all classes of invalids ; 
 but as the evaporation from the ocean, in some 
 degree, obviates the deficiency of rain, it is 
 believed that very few cases would suffer 
 from the dryness of the air. In affections of 
 the mucus membranes, with copious expecto- 
 ration, this climate will prove highly benefi- 
 cial. The absence of humidity is one of the 
 most essential requisites of a good climate. I 
 fully concur in the following remarks from 
 Clark on Climate and Diseases, p. 121 : 
 
 " Of all the physical qualities of the air, 
 humidity is the most injurious to human 
 life ; and, therefore, in selecting situations for 
 building, particular regard should be had to 
 the circumstances which are calculated to
 
 86 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 obviate humidity either in the soil or atmos- 
 phere. Diyness, with a free circulation of 
 air and a full exposure to the sun, are the 
 material things to be attended to in choosing 
 a residence. A person may, I believe, sleep 
 with perfect safety in the centre of the Pon- 
 tine marshes, by having his room kept well 
 heated by a fire during the night." 
 
 In the day time, although the sun shines very 
 bright, there is always breeze enough coming 
 down from the mountains to prevent the heat 
 being oppressive, and, occasionally, dry floating 
 clouds cast a pleasant shade over the land. I 
 could endure five times the exercise during 
 the day that I could at St. Croix, and with 
 less fatigue. Umbrellas were of course out of 
 fashion here, the showers being none, and the 
 sun's rays in winter at least harmless. It was 
 a long time before I could trust myself abroad 
 without my umbrella when clouds were in 
 sight, which was very often ; but finding- they 
 never leaked like those of St. Croix, I soon 
 went where I pleased, without overcoat, cloak, 
 thick boots, or umbrella, and "saw the sun 
 set, sure he would rise to-morrow." Twice it 
 sprinkled enough just to lay the dust, and 
 that was all the rain during more than two
 
 WEST 13\ 7 DIES AND FLORIDA. 87 
 
 weeks. In July, August, and September, the 
 rainy season, as it is called, showers are fre- 
 quent, the ground is more moist, and fevers 
 are somewhat prevalent, but there is no great 
 danger, without unnecessary exposure to the 
 sun. As to heat, it is not an evil much to be 
 apprehended, for it was remarked by the in- 
 habitants, and I believe very correctly, that 
 there was no time in the year when one could 
 not be cool enough in the shade, or warm 
 enough in the sunshine. The thermometer 
 generally ranges from 75 to 80 during the 
 day in winter, and from 80 to 85 in the 
 summer. There are none of those extremes 
 of heat which we experience at the north ; 
 and if at any time it should be found too 
 warm within two hours' ride up the moun- 
 tains, woollen clothing by day, and thick 
 blankets at night, are necessary protections 
 against the cold. The winds are variable, 
 generally blowing from all points of the com- 
 pass during every twenty-four hours, with 
 a gentle land breeze from the north at morn- 
 ing and evening. This is very pleasant ; but 
 at times north winds prevail for two or three 
 days in succession, making the Spaniards 
 shiver, and put on cloaks at morning and eve-
 
 OO A WINTER IN THE 
 
 ning. They are nothing, however, like what 
 are called northers at Havana, Matanzas, and 
 all- along the north side of the island, there 
 being sixty to seventy miles of high moun- 
 tainous land to break their force and mode- 
 rate their temperature. About the 25th of 
 February, I witnessed some of the coldest 
 weather that had happened, as I was in- 
 formed, in several years ; and although the 
 air felt cool enough to be a little unpleasant 
 at morning and evening, it did not affect me 
 as unfavourably as the worst weather in Janu- 
 ary did at St. Croix, for I had not a single 
 breath of asthma, nor an appearance of cough, 
 while I remained there. I ate heartily, slept 
 soundly, and increased in flesh and strength 
 during the whole time, and never passed a 
 fortnight as pleasantly in a strange place 
 before. 
 
 The kindness and politeness of my country- 
 men and their Spanish friends, no doubt con- 
 tributed greatly to my happiness ; but the sur- 
 passing excellence of the climate was more 
 important than every thing else. There was 
 but a single cause of uneasiness during the 
 whole time, and that was the refusal of the 
 governor to give me a passport for Havana 3 or
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 89 
 
 let me go in any way, except to embark in the 
 same vessel that brought me. As in that case 
 I should be carried into Philadelphia in 
 March, the very worst month in the whole 
 year, it did not please me much. Several of 
 my friends interceded, but with no effect, the 
 governor insisting that his instructions were 
 absolute, to let no one pass without a passport 
 certified by a Spanish consul in the country 
 where it was obtained, specifying the object 
 in visiting the island. As I had only a Dan- 
 ish passport, not certified at all, he thought it 
 impossible to oblige me without disobeying 
 his instructions. Finally, Count Brunet, a 
 nobleman more by nature and feeling than 
 on account of his Spanish titles, or his income 
 of a hundred thousand dollars a year, called 
 personally upon his excellency the Governor, 
 and persuaded him to make my case an ex- 
 ception, on the ground that there was no 
 Spanish consul at St. Croix by whom a pass- 
 port could be certified,, and I was not immedi- 
 ately from my own country. This had the 
 desired effect ; but still it must appear to be 
 done through some other influence. So I 
 only had to go through the form of getting a 
 communication from our consul to the go-
 
 90 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 rernor, stating the case, and getting the same 
 interpreted, when I was once more free to go 
 where I pleased. I mention this for two pur- 
 poses. First, to apprise others of the import- 
 ance of having their passports regular when 
 going to a foreign country ; and secondly, as 
 a public acknowledgment of my obligations to 
 Count Brtmet. How different was his con- 
 duct from what thousands of our citizens, 
 who think their wealth and distinction exempt 
 them from such acts of courtesy, would have 
 been under like circumstances. This is not 
 an isolated case ; but, on the contrary, seldom 
 does an American visit Trinidad without in 
 some way or other finding occasion to acknow- 
 ledge his obligations to the same distinguished 
 individual. It is the more striking, from the 
 fact, that another distinguished individual 
 of the same place, with not only sufficient 
 wealth to build him the best house in the 
 island, but also to purchase a pitiful title from 
 the government of Spain, although an Ameri- 
 can by birth, sets himself above his country- 
 men, and never, or seldom, takes the trouble 
 to ascertain whether they are in want of his 
 aid or not. 
 
 On the day of my arrival, a famous mur-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 91 
 
 derer had been executed upon the garotid, a 
 sort of machine to choke criminals to death 
 without suspending them in the air. The 
 culprit sits down in a chair, puts his head 
 back against a support prepared for it, a ne- 
 gro then puts on a kind of neck-yoke, fetches 
 it up snug to the throat, and when the ap- 
 pointed hour arrives, turns a screw behind, 
 which produces instantaneous death. From 
 the great excitement produced by this execu- 
 tion, it was apparent that capital crimes were 
 not very frequent. No one expressed any 
 sympathy for the culprit ; but, on the contra- 
 ry, many regretted that so great a villain 
 should escape with so little punishment. Ac- 
 cording to his own confession, he had com- 
 mitted twenty-eight murders ; and instead of 
 showing any signs of penitence, regretted, in 
 his last moments, that he had not an oppor- 
 tunity to commit more. He said that all the 
 tortures that could be inflicted upon him 
 could not equal those which he had inflicted 
 upon others ; that he had always expected to- 
 be executed at last, and meant now to meet 
 his fate with fortitude. When the fatal. hour 
 arrived, he sat composedly down, got up, said" 
 the seat was too low, had it raised,, and sat
 
 92 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 down again with perfect composure. After 
 the execution the head was cut off, carried 
 away in a sack, and the body taken away on 
 a cart. The head was afterwards put on a 
 pole, in a kind of cage, by the way-side, as a 
 terror to evil-doers. Such exhibitions make 
 a lasting impression upon the public mind, 
 and, when not too frequent, produce a salu- 
 tary effect ; but when too often repeated, in- 
 stead of deterring from crime, only tend to 
 make men cruel and ferocious. On my 
 arrival, I anticipated much pleasure in 
 riding over the elevated mountains in 
 the vicinity of the city ; but soon found the 
 task not quite so pleasant. I at first made 
 the experiment of aseending what appeared to 
 be a small hill, just in the rear of the city, and 
 some miles from the foot of the mountain. 
 Although a mere trifle compared with its 
 neighbors, it was more than five hundred feet 
 high, and two or three hours' ride was neces- 
 sary to visit its summit and return again-. 
 The ascent was by a rugged path, winding 
 about among the rocks, so steep in many 
 places that an inexperienced animal could not 
 have made his way ; but the little pony I 
 rode went up as nimbly as a cat, and showed
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 93 
 
 no signs of fatigue. Near the summit I ob- 
 served arch-ways, or caves, under strata of 
 limestone, apparently worn as by the wash- 
 ing of the sea ; and found, on examination, 
 incontestible evidence that the same had once 
 formed the shore of the ocean. The arch- 
 ways had been worn by the beating of the 
 surges ; and the gravelly shore, with marine 
 shells scattered along beneath, left no room 
 for doubt as to the fact, that these mighty 
 masses of rocks had been thrown up to their 
 present elevation by volcanic eruptions, or 
 other convulsions of Nature. Leaving the 
 caves, I proceeded onward to the summit, 
 and gazed in silent admiration upon the beauty 
 and grandeur of the surrounding scenes. On 
 the east, the rich cane-fields were spread out 
 in the distance ; on the north, a beautiful river 
 wound along between the hills hundreds 
 of feet below ; in the rear, lofty mountains 
 rose majestically to the clouds ; and on the 
 south, the city, the harbour, the shipping, and 
 the vast expanse of blue waters, presented a 
 scene of mingled beauty and sublimity. 
 However highly pleased with this experi- 
 ment, it was enough to convince me of the 
 utter impracticability of ascending the moun-
 
 94 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 tains, without going prepared to camp out 
 over-night, which would not be very pleasant 
 in the winter-season. Many of the higher 
 ridges are almost inaccessible ; but along the 
 valleys between them, several hundred feet 
 above the level of the ocean, there are tolera- 
 ble roads. The country is settled, and 
 abounds with fine coffee estates. 
 
 Mr. Carrot, a wealthy merchant, and plant- 
 er, invited three or four Americans to visit 
 his estate, situate in the great valley of Trini- 
 dad, about fifteen miles to the eastward of the 
 city ; and, mounted on horseback, with his 
 clerk for a conductor, at about 4 o'clock, p. M., 
 we pushed off into the country. 
 
 A ride of about three miles over a sandy 
 soil, covered with wild bushes, and a poor 
 road, winding along just where it could be 
 made easiest, or rather, just where the first 
 travellers chose to go, (for that is the way it 
 was made,) we arrived at the first sugar 
 estate I had seen in Trinidad, the soil 
 near the city not being of a suitable quality. 
 For twelve miles through the great valley of 
 the province, we found almost one continuous 
 growth of cane, with the road generally run- 
 ning along the boundaries of estates, with no
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 95 
 
 fences between : several estates together with 
 the road itself, however, being fenced into 
 large enclosures, with gates here and there, 
 and a negro standing by to open and shut 
 them. There were plenty of palm and 
 cocoa-nut trees, of natural growth, about 
 the country, but very few set out in regular 
 columns, like those of St. Croix. The estate 
 of Mr. C. was situate on the east bank of the 
 Manati river, which runs through the valley, 
 emptying into the ocean about fifteen miles to 
 the windward, or easterly of the city. The 
 stream was now low and clear, but its high 
 arid torn banks showed plainly that in the 
 rainy season, instead of a slumbering infant, it 
 was a raging monster, tearing everything be- 
 fore it in its resistless progress. A splendid 
 mansion was standing on the bank, several feet 
 above high water mark, giving it a command- 
 ing: view of the surrounding scenery. With- 
 
 o o - 
 
 out observing it much by moonlight, however, 
 we all felt more inclined for supper than any- 
 thing else, and accordingly entered the man- 
 sion, which had been closed, but which the 
 clerk was sent to open for our accommoda- 
 tion. All the rooms and supplies the house 
 afforded were made free to us, and we fared
 
 96 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 sumptuously and slept soundly. The next 
 morning, at daylight, we took a view of as 
 rich a scene as was ever spread out by 
 nature and art combined. The deep rich 
 green of the cane on every side ; the palm 
 trees wildly spread over the whole ; the 
 fine mansions of the planters and the smoke 
 of those Yankee improvements, the steam en- 
 gines, with which the cane is now ground ; 
 with a beautiful river winding its way quietly 
 along the centre ; while on the north, east, 
 and west, majestic mountains, with cragged 
 peaks, towered aloft to the very skies, con- 
 spired to form a scene of surpassing beauty, as 
 well as grandeur and sublimity. 
 
 From this extended view, we entered the 
 garden to witness not lesser beauties, but 
 beauties on a smaller scale. It abounded in 
 all the West India fruits and flowers, and 
 was laid out in American style, Mrs. C. be- 
 ing an American lady. In addition to all 
 that was tasty and elegant, a part of it was 
 devoted to the production of the useful, as 
 well as elegant vegetables of the north : toma- 
 toes, cabbages, turnips, radishes, onions, 
 beets, carrots, &c., &c. To find oneself in a 
 rich beautiful garden like this, with a bright
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 97 
 
 sun and clear sky to heighten its beauty, and 
 then reflect, that at the same moment the in- 
 habitants of New- York were gathered round 
 a coal fire, or, wrapped in overcoats and 
 cloaks, hastening, half frozen through the 
 streets, too fast to recognize their friends, was 
 enough of itself to compensate for a voyage 
 to the West Indies, with all its horrors of sea- 
 sickness. 
 
 From the garden we went to the sugar- 
 works, which were on a scale rather larger 
 than those of St. Croix. The estate con- 
 sisted of two thousand acres of land, and was 
 worked by two hundred slaves. Slavery 
 appeared here rather more severe than at St. 
 Croix, for some of the slaves had chains 
 around their necks, and the marks of the lash 
 upon their backs. Windmills were not re- 
 lied upon for grinding cane, as at St. Croix ; 
 and the mills upon this estate were propelled 
 by oxen, of which eighty pair were kept for 
 this and other purposes. Clayed sugar only 
 was manufactured here, whereas nothing but 
 muscovado was made at St. Croix. Instead 
 of putting it in hogsheads to drain, it is put 
 in earthern jars, called purging pans, taper- 
 ing to a point, with a small hole in the bot- 
 9
 
 98 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 torn. After the molasses has drained out, in 
 part, a layer of clay is put over the surface, 
 which purges the sugar of impurities, and 
 divides it into different qualities: first, a layer 
 of very fine white, then a layer of good, and 
 at the bottom a residue of inferior brown 
 sugar. The molasses is caught from these 
 pans, and conducted to a reservoir, from 
 whence it is pumped up when wanted. 
 Three thousand purging pans were used at 
 this establishment: and in sugar and molas- 
 ses, the estate produced about seventy-five 
 thousand dollars per annum. The neigh- 
 bouring estates were about as large, and 
 many of them were worked by steam engines 
 to great advantage. The use of them will 
 soon become general. The Spaniards, how- 
 ever, are slow to adopt improvements. All 
 the cedar boards for building are sawed by 
 hand, no one daring to try the experiment of 
 a steam saw-mill. All the sugar and molas- 
 ses from this great valley are first carried to 
 the river on ox-carts, then taken down the 
 river, and along the coast, to Casilda, in 
 lighters. When the wind blows from the 
 north, the lighters cannot get up the river on 
 account of shoal water, and thus vessels are
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 99 
 
 sometimes detained a month before getting a 
 cargo. A railroad of twenty miles would take 
 the whole to the port with the greatest speed, 
 going through the city, and thus furnishing a 
 communication between the city and Casilda. 
 But that would be too much of a Yankee 
 notion to suit the Spaniards. They are so 
 much opposed to improvements, that when 
 Mr. C. improved the road along his estate by 
 making it straight where it hud been crooked, 
 they tried to get the old road restored, alleging 
 that it was shorter than the new one. 
 
 After passing the day very pleasantly, in 
 the evening we mounted our horses and went 
 to town again, without overcoat or even wool- 
 len clothing. I could here ride fifteen miles 
 in the evening with perfect impunity. Asth- 
 ma and cough for a week afterwards would 
 have been sure to follow in any other climate 
 I have ever found. 
 
 On the 22d of February, the birth-day of 
 Washington, about fifteen Americans, with 
 four or five distinguished Spanish gentlemen 
 as invited guests, partook of a sumptuous 
 public dinner provided for the occasion. In 
 a foreign land it was highly gratifying to 
 meet even a small party of our countrymen,
 
 100 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 with the flag of our country floating above, 
 and our hearts beating with patriotism with- 
 in, assembled to pay a tribute of respect, not 
 to a king or tyrant, but to the memory of an 
 individual with no title but that of " Father 
 of his Country." We were all doubly grati- 
 fied to find that the band of music employed 
 for the occasion could regale us with "Hail 
 Columbia," and other national airs. The day 
 was delightful, as were all the clays I passed 
 at Trinidad, and every thing passed off finely. 
 Several spirited volunteer toasts were drank t 
 among which were the following : 
 
 "The Great Man whose birth we cele- 
 brate His body moulders in the dust, but 
 his spirit is abroad in the world, and its 
 impulse will be felt to the end of time." 
 
 "America, the Light-House of the World 
 May its rays penetrate the darkest regions. 
 and conduct the most benighted nations to 
 the grand harbour of republicanism." 
 
 "The American Flag It is found waving 
 in every port on earth, and respected wher- 
 ever found." 
 
 "Americans abroad May they always 
 find friends, and always deserve them." 
 
 " The State of Virginia The birth-place
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 101 
 
 of Washington, Jefferson, and Madison, three 
 most illustrious men of an illustrious age." 
 
 " The United States of America, a Con- 
 stellation of Bright Stars of various aspects, 
 but equal lustre May they rival those of 
 heaven in perpetuity as they do in brilliancy/' 
 
 More might be given, but these are suffi- 
 cient to show the prevailing feeling. It was 
 amusing to witness the surprise of some igno- 
 rant Spaniards that so great a parade should 
 be made about any body but "the king." 
 
 The time for my departure was draw- 
 ing near, and never did I leave a place 
 with so much regret. My health had 
 constantly improved, and although I had 
 experienced some of the severest weather 
 that had happened for several years, there 
 had been scarcely an hour when I 
 could say it was too cold. From observa- 
 tion and experience^ as well as from the 
 natural causes above detailed, I cannot en- 
 tertain a doubt that it is a better place for 
 invalids than I have ever seen or read of. 
 In point of climate, it is as far superior to St. 
 Croix v as good champaigne is to bad cider. 
 Good medical attendance can always be pro- 
 cured, at moderate charges. There are seve- 
 9*
 
 102 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 ral good physicians, one of whom, Dr. Can- 
 taro, was educated in our country, and of 
 course speaks English, as well as Spanish. 
 The usual charge is one dollar a visit in the 
 city. But like all other places, it has its 
 faults ; and it was often remarked, that though 
 the climate was as good as could be, there 
 was scarcely any thing but. that to make a 
 residence there desirable. The Creoles of the 
 place are a lazy, idle class of men, who are 
 content to have nothing, except what comes 
 without exertion, and are opposed to all kinds 
 of improvements and innovations. No pains 
 are taken to cultivate fruit, &c. &c., but if any- 
 thing grows, it is pretty much spontaneous. 
 There are no boarding-houses, except Span- 
 ish taverns, which would not suit Americans, 
 and not a Spaniard can be found who would 
 deviate from the beaten tract for any hire. 
 The roads out of the city are rather bad, 
 though passable ; and though there are plenty 
 of horses and carriages to be let, the hire is 
 high, being two dollars a day for a saddle 
 horse, and about five for a catrina, or horse 
 and gig. If some American would under- 
 take to open a house for invalids, he would 
 do well ; and besides, it would obviate more
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 103 
 
 than half the objections to their going there. 
 Horses are cheap, and he could keep enough 
 for his own boarding-house ; rent is cheap 
 also ; and on the whole, notwithstanding the 
 
 / / ^ 
 
 high price of flour, there being ten dollars the 
 barrel duty, I have no doubt, good board can 
 be supplied at ten dollars per week, and a 
 profit made at that. Indeed, an invalid can 
 hire his own room, and take his meals at a 
 tavern, at about the same rate, but his living 
 will not be as good. The best way is for 
 several to combine, hire a house and servants, 
 and live in their own way ; taking with them 
 such articles of furniture, &c. &c. as they may 
 need, upon which no duties will be asked. 
 A carriage cannot be brought however with- 
 out a high duty ; horses can be bought cheap, 
 say from thirty to one hundred dollars, and 
 the keeping is only about two dollars and a 
 quarter per week ; on the whole, it is my 
 choice in preference to all other places. The 
 Spanish language is something of an objection, 
 but not very serious, where there are- thirty or 
 forty inhabitants who speak English * to some 
 it may be an advantage, for they can learn the 
 language when they would otherwise have 
 done nothing at alL As to the fear of robbery
 
 104 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 and jealousy of the Spaniards, there is nothing 
 in it. They are dark complexioned, but not 
 a whit the worse for that. When I first went 
 there, my apprehensions were great; I looked 
 at every body and every thing with a suspi- 
 cious eye, and never went out without being 
 armed. But after ascertaining how much 
 more strictly the laws are enforced, than in our 
 own country ; wandering about among a pop- 
 ulation of ten thousand for a fortnight without 
 observing an assault and battery, row, or riot, 
 or even so much as a drunken man, along the 
 streets ; learning that crimes were more rare 
 than any where in our country : and what was 
 more than all, finding every Spaniard evincing 
 five times the kindness and politeness to an 
 American, that we would generally extend to 
 a Spaniard, I must confess that my apprehen- 
 sions were altogether unfounded. Travellers 
 in the country, generally, go armed, not for 
 fear of robbers, but to keep the slaves in awe : 
 a very prudent precaution, where they are so 
 much more numerous than the whites. In 
 one week, I felt as safe as though I had a body- 
 guard constantly in attendance.. Every one 
 who has tried it, will say the same thing. But 
 still, we do not Like the Spanish Government.
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 105 
 
 If Cuba belonged to our Government, its pop- 
 ulation would double in two years, and 
 quadruple in less than five, for no place on 
 earth enjoys a finer climate than some parts 
 of it, or greater natural resources,
 
 106 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Voyage, &c., to Batabanno and Havana. 
 
 A STEAMBOAT runs from St. Ja^o de Cuba to 
 
 O 
 
 Batabanno, opposite Havana, and back again, 
 once a month, touching at all the principal 
 intermediate places. The passage from Trin- 
 idad to Batabanno is twenty dollars ; but 
 being out of time, I took a Spanish packet- 
 schooner, a regular coaster also, sailed on the 
 sixth of March, and arrived at the port of des- 
 tination after a pleasant passage of two days. 
 It was the first time I had ever embarked on 
 board a foreign vessel ; and it seemed odd 
 enough to find a schooner of one hundred 
 tons manned with a full crew of ten men ; 
 whereas an American ship of seven hundred 
 tons would be managed by the same number, 
 and such a schooner by four men. No won- 
 der our vessels can underbid all the world in 
 carrying freight, with such a great saving of 
 labor. The change of climate, though not of 
 temperature, was perceptible immediately 
 on going ashore the ground being low and
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 107 
 
 swampy, and the atmosphere humid and ap- 
 parently unwholesome. It is, in truth, so 
 bad, that the village of Batabanno is loca- 
 ted three miles from the coast, on dry land, 
 but still only a few feet above the level of the 
 swamp. Mules and horses were soon provi- 
 ded to take the passengers and baggage, a dis- 
 tance of about twelve miles, to the railroad 
 leading to Havana. After leaving the swamp, 
 we found a rich level soil, with abundance of 
 oranges and other fruits ; but every thing in- 
 dicated a great superabundance of moisture. 
 Water was every where found by digging 
 four feet, and the rank growth of vegetation 
 plainly indicated the frequency of rain. Our 
 ride, however, was pleasant in the extreme. 
 Even the wild forests abounded with oranges, 
 as beautiful, but not as sweet, as the cultiva- 
 ted fruit. We passed several beautiful coffee 
 estates in full bloom, surpassing in beauty 
 any other plantations I had ever seen. It 
 takes the coifee tree three years to produce 
 the first crop. The leaves are bright green, 
 resembling in colour those of the orange, but 
 the trees are not allowed to grow over about 
 three or four feet high, the tops being cut off 
 from time to time to keep them on a proper
 
 108 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 level. This uniformity of height, the regu- 
 larity of the rows, the beautiful white blos- 
 soms, and the heavy growth of plantains 
 towering above for the purpose of shade, 
 give a coffee estate a remarkably fine 
 appearance. Many of them are adorned 
 also with fine ornamental gardens and ele- 
 gant buildings. 
 
 In a few hours I was at the railroad depot, 
 thirty miles from Havana, and felt once more 
 like being at home. I had not heard a word 
 of English for several days, and it did me 
 good, in the absence of our language, to come 
 in contact with an improvement that might 
 well be called our own, for this very work 
 has been planned and constructed so far by 
 American skill, the superintendents, engi- 
 neers, &c., &c., being all Americans. A 
 branch of this road is to be continued to Ba- 
 tabanno, which will make a communication 
 by steam, from Havana to Trinidad, at about 
 twenty-five dollars expense. There is only an 
 ascent and descent of about one hundred 
 feet in crossing the island, and the general 
 appearance of the soil and surface of the 
 country is not unlike western New- York in 
 the summer season. The country along the
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 109 
 
 railroad is principally devoted to the culture of 
 vegetables for the Havana market, and ap- 
 pears much like the vicinity of one of our 
 own cities. Every thing looked rich and 
 productive ; the soil and atmosphere were 
 both damp, and, as I was wafted along at fif- 
 teen miles per hour, I could hardly resist the 
 impression that I was passing through a part 
 of my own State. However rich this coun- 
 try, it did not require a moment's observation 
 to see that it was an unfit place for invalids. 
 Before arriving at Havana, the cold had in- 
 creased to such an extent as to make it 
 necessary to shut the windows of the cars, 
 whereas, but two hours before, every one was 
 complaining of the heat. On arriving, the 
 first business was to put on woollen clothing, 
 and thick boots ; which fairly prepared me 
 to sally forth and see the city. 
 
 10
 
 110 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Havana. 
 
 HERE were invalids in abundance, shivering 
 
 o 
 
 with cold on the 10th of March, and without 
 exception, as far as my limited observation 
 extended, complaining of the climate. From 
 inhabitants and visitors, I could hear of 
 nothing but northers, which had been blow- 
 ing nearly half the time, as they said, during 
 the winter. The general moisture of the 
 high upland soil in the vicinity, as well as 
 the mud-puddles along the streets of the city, 
 showed that there had been abundance of 
 rain here, while it was entirely dry at Trini- 
 dad. Besides this, a damp, clammy atmos- 
 phere, a cold cloudy sky, with a vinegar as- 
 pect, confirmed me entirely in the opinion 
 before formed from information, that the 
 northerly side of Cuba, open to the full sweep 
 of winds from the United States, and the At- 
 lantic on the north, was at best an ill-chosen 
 resort for invalids, compared with those above
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. Ill 
 
 described. The city is finely situated on 
 high ground, with one of the best protected, 
 and, in other respects, best harbours in the 
 world. It is strongly fortified, entrenched, 
 and walled, presenting the general appear- 
 ance of a European city. The antique 
 and venerable looking churches, convents, 
 prisons, forts, &c., give to this city an ap- 
 pearance of age and respectability unequal- 
 led by any other in America. The streets, 
 however, are very narrow, simply wide 
 enough for two carriages to pass, without 
 sidewalks, and crowded with carriages and 
 carts, besides multitudes on foot, of every 
 shape, colour, and variety of the human 
 species, from the most potent Spanish na- 
 bob to the most miserable mulattoes and 
 slaves. The buildings are generally built 
 of stone and mortar, from two to four 
 stories high. The streets are generally 
 filthy ; and, with a little lime-gas from 
 the walls and effluvia from the streets, the 
 atmosphere appeared to me much better cal- 
 culated to produce yellow fever than to 
 restore diseased lungs, or otherwise produce 
 benefit to any class of invalids. The floors
 
 112 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 are also made of a sort of composition of 
 lime-cement, which, together with the mois- 
 ture gathered from a damp atmosphere by 
 heavy stone-walls, make the apartments not 
 very pleasant to feeble invalids. The popu- 
 lation is about one hundred and eighty thou- 
 sand ; nearly half of which, however, is with- 
 out the walls, by far the pleasantest part of 
 the city. There are several fine public 
 squares, supplied with water-fountains ; and 
 without the walls is a beautiful public prome- 
 nade, at the further extremity of which is sit- 
 uated a splendid botanic garden and the gov- 
 ernor's palace. This garden is thrown open 
 to the public on Sunday ; and thither all the 
 beauty and fashion of the city, with almost 
 every thing else, resort to enjoy the beauties 
 of the scene. I visited it on the day after my 
 arrival, when the north wind had ceased 
 blowing, the clouds had mostly dispersed, giv- 
 ing to the whole city a much more favourable 
 aspect than it had the day before. But still, 
 as regards a residence for invalids, my opin- 
 ion was unchanged. In addition to the dis- 
 advantage of the rains and northers, it is 
 almost twice as expensive living there as at
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 113 
 
 St. Croix, Trinidad, or almost any other place 
 in the West Indies. Board costs fifteen to 
 twenty-five dollars per week, which, together 
 with the thousand incidental expenses of a 
 great city, makes more than most invalids are 
 willing and able to pay-. There were inva- 
 lids here from Matanzas, which is situated 
 about forty miles to the north-east, and, from 
 their account, without going there, I was en- 
 tirely satisfied it was. not essentially different 
 from Havana in point of fitness for invalids. In 
 the country, however, fifteen or twenty miles 
 from either place, the climate is better than at 
 either city ; and several invalids have passed 
 winters with tolerable satisfaction and consid- 
 erable advantage. Rains and north winds, 
 however, are, and must be, a subject of com- 
 plaint anywhere on the north side of the 
 island, and to some extent on the south, ex- 
 cept where the centre is high and moun- 
 tainous, as about Trinidad, and further east- 
 erly. As the winds generally prevail from 
 the north, it must, in the nature of things, be 
 certain that the first land will condense the 
 vapour and receive the largest quantity of 
 rain. Without a full opportunity for investi- 
 10*
 
 114 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 gation, my opinion was formed 'in the short 
 space of two days, upon a basis so perfectly 
 satisfactory to myself, that, without further 
 delay or trouble, I at once embarked for Key 
 West, fully convinced that it must at least be 
 as good, and probably a better place, than 
 Havana,
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 115 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Key West. 
 
 THE Key West fishing-smacks supply the 
 Havana market with fish, and, sailing directly 
 from thence homeward, afford frequent oppor- 
 tunities to pass from one place to the other, 
 a distance of about eighty miles, at the extra- 
 vagant price of ten dollars for one night on 
 board a small vessel. At about sundown on 
 the 12th of March I embarked on board one 
 of them, and found myself passing the frown- 
 ing battlements of the Moro Castle and the 
 light-house, at the mouth of the harbour, about 
 dark. As soon as the vessel got under-way, 
 the captain, a hard-looking, cross-eyed man, 
 but who had previously conducted with great 
 propriety, all at once appeared to be much 
 excited, swearing most furiously, as well as 
 profanely, at every thing about him, and par- 
 ticularly at one of his men who was in a 
 berth below, as quiet as a lamb. Upon being 
 asked what the man had done, he said he had 
 turned against him, and accused him of mur-
 
 116 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 der and piracy, when he never had been 
 guilty of either, although he always thought 
 he should be a pirate to revenge himself upon 
 mankind for their villainy ; and that he would 
 murder him by splitting his brains out with 
 an axe, and throwing him overboard as soon as 
 he got into the blue water. He said mankind 
 were just bad enough to deserve to be mur- 
 dered, and that he believed that God had 
 made murderers and pirates for evil, as he 
 had rattlesnakes to bite, and that he loved all 
 he had made ; that he feared no punishment 
 from God or man, &c. &c. Such language 
 as this, without any apparent cause for it, 
 naturally excited surprise, mingled with no 
 small degree of apprehension, and brought to 
 mind the stories I had often heard about Key 
 West wreckers being pirates, or about as bad. 
 Alone as I was, in the midst of a crew headed 
 by such a captain, suspicion was equivalent 
 to confirmation, and when once in possession 
 of the mind, banished every other considera- 
 tion. At the very moment it was setting in 
 with a strong current, I observed that we 
 were sailing under Spanish colours, whereas 
 the captain had told me his was an American 
 vessel. Upon inquiring what the Spanish
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 117 
 
 flag meant, the captain said it was a Spanish 
 vessel, and he was a Spaniard, but that he 
 sailed under just such colours as suited him 
 best. This was decisive that they were indeed 
 pirates, and for once in my life I was hor- 
 ribly alarmed at the idea that I was the can- 
 didate for being thrown into the blue water 
 as soon as we got to sea. It seemed as 
 though there was a secret joy in every one's 
 countenance at having caught me; and I 
 wondered how I could have trusted myself 
 on board such a vessel without inquiring its 
 character. I tried to get my pistols from my 
 trunk, but could not do so without being 
 observed, which would only make matters 
 worse. I then took care to mention inciden- 
 tally, that, having a good opportunity, I had 
 bought a bill on New- York, which left me so 
 destitute of money that I might be compelled 
 to borrow. For an hour or two fear reigned 
 triumphant ; but as soon as it subsided suffi- 
 ciently to give place to recollection, it oc- 
 curred to me, that, instead of coming on 
 board without knowing any thing of the ves- 
 sel, an acquaintance at Havana had informed 
 me that he came over in the same, and ad- 
 vised me to go in her. Tjlhis, together with
 
 118 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 the fact that I was not killed, soon relieved 
 me from apprehension, and the next morning 
 I was safely landed at Key West, where I 
 learned that the captain was only a hard 
 drinker and hard swearer, and that all the 
 smacks went to Havana under Spanish colours 
 to save port charges. I mention this, not only 
 as an amusing instance of unfounded fear, but 
 also to show the great importance to travel- 
 lers of being fully satisfied as to the character 
 of a vessel in all respects, before embarking. 
 Suspicions of this kind are no very pleasant 
 visiters any where, particularly at sea. 
 
 Key West is a little island, four or five 
 miles long, varying from half a mile to a 
 mile in width, situate in latitude 24 25' 
 north, about seventy miles west of the south- 
 ern extremity of the peninsula of East Flori- 
 da. It is composed of a formation of coral 
 lime-stone and sea-shells, beat up by the 
 surges of the ocean, the ground generally 
 being scarcely six feet above ordinary high 
 water mark, and the lowest in many places 
 inundated by every flow of the tide. There 
 are also several ponds in the interior, con- 
 taining a small quantity of fresh water. The 
 Gulf Stream flows along six or seven miles
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 119 
 
 to the south, with a reef running along its 
 northern boundary, to the north of which 
 there is a large extent of very shoal water, 
 interspersed with several other keys, similar to 
 this in all respects except dimensions, for near- 
 ly a hundred miles westerly of the main land. 
 There are several passages through the reel 
 for large vessels, and the harbour is excel- 
 lent. Its position, commanding the com- 
 merce of the Gulf of Mexico, early attracted 
 the attention of our Government as a suit- 
 able place for a military and naval depot. 
 Commodore Porter made it his head-quarters 
 while cruising for pirates with the West In- 
 dian squadron, and military barracks on a 
 somewhat extensive scale were commenced, 
 but have since been abandoned, and are now 
 going to ruin. By the carelessness of the 
 first settlers, and the exposed situation of 
 Commodore Porter's men, the climate of the 
 place acquired a bad character, and many 
 now represent it as a place very subject to 
 yellow fever and fever and ague : but the 
 experience of upwards of five hundred in- 
 habitants for several years, with great free- 
 dom from fevers of all kinds, and with but 
 rarely a case of ague, even by the intern-
 
 120 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 perate, has not only repelled the charge, but 
 brought it into high estimation as a place of 
 extraordinary salubrity. Commodore Porter, 
 in a communication to the Government, said 
 that his men contracted their fevers in the 
 haunts of the pirates in the West Indies, and 
 not at Key West ; but the lady with whom 
 I boarded says it is not so; but still, that 
 it was far from being the fault of the climate. 
 She said they had no provision for catching 
 rain-water ; that the men drank water ob- 
 tained by digging little holes in the ground, 
 which was often very bad ; and besides, that 
 they had not sufficient protection either from 
 the sun or the winds, and that under similar 
 circumstances any body would now have the 
 yellow fever there. 
 
 The great number of reefs and shoals in 
 the neighbourhood, where so many vessels are 
 constantly passing, renders this a natural 
 place of resort for wreckers, who, with small 
 vessels, lie about the shoals, some solely for 
 the purpose of relieving vessels that get 
 aground, and others not only for that purpose, 
 but also employed in fishing for the Havana 
 market. To encourage a business so important 
 to commerce, a prize-court has been estab-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 121 
 
 lished here to settle questions of salvage, &c. 
 &c., which adds considerable to the impor- 
 tance of the place, and in time of war, would 
 bring to it a still more important class of 
 business. A mail is regularly established 
 from hence to New- York and St. Marks, twice 
 a month, a matter of no small importance, not 
 only to the inhabitants, but also -to strangers 
 and temporary sojourners for health or other- 
 wise. There are about forty small vessels, 
 wreckers and fishermen, resorting here, which, 
 together with the wrecked crews and passen- 
 gers brought in, add considerable to the busi- 
 ness of the place. There are extensive salt 
 works in successful operation, from five to 
 eight hundred inhabitants, about one hundred 
 neat looking houses, fourteen stores, several 
 ware-houses, a tavern, a court-house, besides 
 a meeting-house being built; a small episcopal 
 society now hold their meetings at the court- 
 house. Besides the tavern, there is one other 
 boarding-house, and arrangements are making 
 to open one or two more. The inhabitants 
 will, no doubt, find accommodations for all 
 who go there. As to amusements, there are 
 two billiard tables and a nine-pin alley. The 
 11
 
 122 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 price of board varies from seven to ten and 
 a half dollars per week. There are two phy- 
 sicians here, of good reputation, and their 
 charges are not very high. 
 
 As to living, the first meal there, after 
 leaving the West Indies, shows the falling off, in 
 full relief. Fresh beef and mutton they have 
 none, fowls sometimes, but scarce, an abun- 
 dance of fine turtle, fish plenty, and of good 
 quality, sometimes vegetables and fruits from 
 the Havana, and sometimes none, there being 
 no regular preparations for getting them. 
 Where I stopped, however, every effort was 
 made to obtain as good a supply of provisions 
 as could be had, without incurring expense 
 beyond what would be warranted by the reve- 
 nue. The soil of the island will not produce 
 even garden vegetables, to any considerable 
 extent, even with the most careful cultivation. 
 Many of the inhabitants remarked that one 
 acre of good soil would be of incalculable 
 benefit to the place. There are a few cocoa- 
 nut trees, a few lime bushes, and some small 
 orange trees, which last, however, do not bear. 
 By putting on dirt, and by dint of watering 
 from day to day, some few gardens produce a 
 few peas, beans, corn, &c. &c., with some or-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 123 
 
 namental flowers, &c. <fec. As a general re- 
 mark, however, it is true that the soil is barren 
 and unproductive; and yet Com. Porter, in the 
 same communication above mentioned, says : 
 " The soil is rich, producing in abundance all 
 the West Indian plants and fruits, except cof- 
 fee and cane." I mention this, to show how 
 little dependence can be placed upon state- 
 ments from any source, when relative terms 
 are used. The above is entitled to as much 
 credit as a thousand remarks from equally res- 
 pectable sources, about good climates, and 
 still nobody that ever saw Key West can be 
 charitable enough to believe it true in any 
 sense. It is something like a statement made 
 by a resident there, when showing his house 
 and lot for sale ; he pointed out the garden as 
 he called it, a surface of lime-stone, with one 
 or two inches of shell soil scattered over it, 
 and a few small weeds scattered about at res- 
 pectable distances apart, and said it was very 
 rich, and would bear any thing that should be 
 planted upon it. 
 
 The village is located at the north-wester- 
 ly corner of the island, scarcely five feet above 
 the level of ordinary high water mark ; and the 
 streets, like all other parts of it, have a lime-
 
 124 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 stone foundation, just covered with a sandy 
 looking soil, composed in fact however of 
 nothing but shells. The aspect of things is 
 not improved at all, to say the least, by a lit- 
 tle pond right in the centre of the city, cov- 
 ering several acres with salt water, varying 
 in depth from a mud bottom to two or three 
 feet, according to the ebb and flow of the tides. 
 A thin sheet of water like this, to say nothing 
 of the muddy bottom, exposed to the effects 
 of a tropical sun, sends up an evaporation 
 that must affect the air injuriously, though not 
 to as great an extent as though it were fresh 
 water. A few thousand dollars expense, how- 
 ever, would soon obviate this difficulty by 
 filling up the pond, and making a public 
 square in its place. There is a tolerable road 
 leading across the west end of the island to 
 the south beach, a distance of about one mile, 
 and another road runs along the beach on the 
 north side, towards the east. There are seve- 
 ral other foot and horse paths through the 
 bushes, in different directions. These are 
 all the chances for riding on the island. 
 There are no horses or carriages to let, and it 
 is expensive keeping animals of any kind on 
 hay and oats, Although some wild cattle do
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 125 
 
 live there without feeding, working horses 
 and milch cows must be fed on hay and 
 grain ; and do not thrive very well. All the 
 island, except in the immediate vicinity of the 
 city, is covered by a dense growth of trees 
 and bushes, from the smallest shrubbery to 
 trees of one foot or more in diameter, a hun- 
 dred years of age : wood is therefore abundant, 
 and probably always will be. The trees furnish 
 to the mosquitoes a fine protection from the 
 sun and winds ; whereby invalids and others 
 are supplied with external irritation, without 
 expense of blister plasters. Indeed, internal 
 or rather mental irritation is in many in- 
 stances produced to an extremely uncomfort- 
 able, if not to a dangerous degree ; insomuch 
 that no one can walk through the shade in 
 the day time, or any where in the evening, 
 without great discomposure of temper. Add to 
 this a slight inconvenience from a small in- 
 sect called sand flies, which abound almost 
 every where, and a pretty accurate idea may 
 be formed of the comforts of the place in calm 
 weather : but when the wind blows, which is 
 pretty generally, they are driven back into the 
 bushes for protection, and do not much an- 
 il*
 
 126 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 noy those who keep in the village, which is 
 generally the windward side of the island. 
 
 As to climate, I found the temperature 
 about like that of Havana, cool enough 
 to require woollen clothing constantly, and 
 not to admit of my dispensing with thick 
 double-soled boots. In the middle of the 
 day they would feel rather heavy, but in 
 the evening and morning were hardly an 
 adequate protection from the cold. During 
 the two weeks I remained there the weath- 
 er was pleasant, with the exception of two 
 occasions, when it rained for a short time. 
 The atmosphere, however, was humid ; and 
 the large amount of water suspended in 
 the air, produced at sun-set a sky tinged 
 with hues of red and yellow, which some 
 considered an evidence of dryness. This 
 appearance, and the scarcity of rain, natu- 
 rally leads those unacquainted with the sub- 
 ject to an erroneous conclusion in regard to 
 the climate of Key West. The reason of 
 the small quantity of rain is not the ab- 
 sence of moisture, for the evaporation must 
 be great, but the small quantity and little 
 elevation of the land, which is not suffi- 
 cient to attract and condense the vapours.
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 127 
 
 As a further evidence of the bad quality of 
 the air, in some respects at least, I ob- 
 served that, after stopping a short time at 
 this place 3 the skin became extremely ten- 
 der, insomuch that it would be fractured 
 by a touch that would scarcely be felt any- 
 where else. This tenderness of the skin 
 was often remarked by others, especially 
 fishermen, and others who had been much 
 in the open air and sun-shine. I cannot 
 discover how the sun could be the only 
 cause, as sun-shine of double power pro- 
 duced no such effect at Trinidad ; and was 
 therefore compelled to ascribe it to the 
 combined influence of sun-shine and a hu- 
 mid atmosphere. 
 
 The wind blew fresh almost constantly, 
 particularly in the evening and morning, 
 and generally from the north ; and cold 
 enough, not only to obstruct perspiration, 
 but also to produce considerable sensation 
 upon the surface. I immediately perceived 
 an unfavourable change in my health ; was 
 obliged to curtail my eating, one half, from 
 approaches of dyspepsia ; to keep in eve- 
 nings, and sleep under two blankets ; and 
 \vas then subject to expectoration and some
 
 128 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 slight attack of asthma at night. On leav- 
 ing, I weighed seven pounds less than on 
 my arrival there. All these things together 
 pretty much demonstrated that the climate 
 was not as good as that of Trinidad, or 
 even St. Croix, for me at least ; but still 
 there is no doubt that it is far better than 
 any other within the limits of the United 
 States. 
 
 Whatever the thermometer may show, the 
 sensations of invalids sufficiently indicate 
 that its temperature is too cold. The coldest 
 weather had passed before my arrival ; and 
 yet, on several occasions, we found it com- 
 fortable to have a lire at morning and even- 
 ing. When a warm climate is resorted to as 
 a remedy, there is no use of going half-way. 
 Wherever it is cold enough to obstruct per- 
 spiration, the principal advantage is lost. It 
 is unwise, indeed, to leave one's home, and go 
 fifteen hundred miles, merely to get a mild 
 climate ; when, by going a little further, and 
 at about the same expense, one entirely free 
 from objection may be found. Persons who 
 have come here directly from the frozen re- 
 gions of the north, find the contrast so great 
 and themselves so much relieved, that many
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 129 
 
 are satisfied and remain here with some tem- 
 porary relief, when by going further south 
 an entire cure would be effected. The great 
 extent of shoal water, and the small eleva- 
 tion of the place above its surface, also make 
 the atmosphere moist, compared with many 
 places in the West Indies ; though not as 
 much so as many other places in our coun- 
 try, and but little, if any, more so than that 
 of St. Croix. But the difference of tempera- 
 ture makes it worse ; and besides, as rains 
 are here very seldom, and at St. Croix very 
 frequent, the former ought to have a much 
 drier atmosphere than the latter; and un- 
 doubtedly would have but for the land-winds 
 from the northward, and the shoals in its 
 vicinity. For those- who are merely predis- 
 posed to affections of the lungs, &c. &c., 
 without actual disease, this climate may be 
 warm enough, and in comparison with any 
 other place in our country, must be pro- 
 nounced a good climate, notwithstanding all 
 the objections above-mentioned. From De- 
 cember to June, 1838, there fell only T Yoths 
 of an inch of rain, and the average range of 
 the thermometer, per month, was only 11. 
 The thermometer stood as follows in 1838 :
 
 130 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 Highest. Lowest. Average. 
 
 January, 79 62 74 28" 
 February, 80 54 72 15 
 March, 81 62 74 50 
 
 April, 81 63 77 31 
 
 May, 85 64 81 14 
 
 From thence to October, inclusive, from 75 
 to 88 ; November, 83 to 66 ; December, 
 82 to 54. Notwithstanding my own im- 
 pression, that the climate of Key West is too 
 cold, it is but fair to state that it is less objec- 
 tionable in this respect than that of Madeira, 
 where the thermometer sometimes falls as 
 low as 50 ; but the effect of cold upon the 
 human system may be worse at the former 
 than the latter place, owing to winds, hu- 
 midity, &c. 
 
 I found here several invalids, two from 
 Pensacola, one of whom found his health 
 somewhat improved, but a lady with a cough 
 showed little or no intimation of improve- 
 ment. A gentleman from New- York who 
 had been given up by his physician as a 
 hopeless case of consumption, had been to 
 Texas, expecting to find that a suitable cli- 
 mate for invalids ; but not feeling exactly 
 satisfied with mud, fog, rain, sleet, and snow,
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 131 
 
 had returned to Key West, and improved 
 rapidly ever since his arrival. Two others 
 from the north with bad coughs, and one 
 with a complication of chronic diseases, had 
 found very great benefit from the climate, 
 and all appeared to think it the best in the 
 United States, if not in the world. But there 
 was not a single case of entire recovery 
 among the whole. 
 
 The monotony of living on so small an 
 island, is, with some, a serious objection to 
 going there ; but this is in a great measure 
 obviated, so far as regards making the trial ; 
 for, if dissatisfied with it, there are frequent 
 opportunities for Havana, and from thence to 
 any part of Cuba, or indeed almost any where 
 else. A very good class of brigs run from 
 New- York to St. Marks twice a month, touch- 
 ing at Key West. The passage is only forty 
 dollars, and, with ten dollars added from 
 here to Havana, it is the cheapest way of 
 getting there : the Havana packets usually 
 charging seventy-five dollars. Many think 
 they would prefer Key West to other places 
 on account of the mail and the supposed fre- 
 quency of communication with New- York;
 
 132 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 but after learning that there are times when 
 no vessel arrives from New- York or any 
 other of our cities for a month, and that at 
 almost any West India port arrivals from our 
 country are five times as frequent, they find 
 the argument on the other side of the ques- 
 tion, and that the little communication with 
 other places, except Havana, is one of the 
 principal objections to residing at Key West. 
 Let no one trust to the mail, if he wishes to 
 get his letters promptly, but, on the contrary, 
 have them sent by the way of Havana, where- 
 by the evil may be partly obviated. After all 
 that can be said, however, the smallness of 
 the island, the want of roads and means of 
 riding, and the dull monotony of so small a 
 place, are, and always must be, serious objec- 
 tions to the place as a resort for invalids. 
 
 The society of the place is better than could 
 be expected from its circumstances and situ- 
 ation, and is at least far from meriting the 
 unfavourable remarks often made concerning 
 it. The inhabitants have been represented 
 by some as a set of wreckers and reckless 
 men, without law or order, morals or civility. 
 These severe aspersions have arisen partly
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 133 
 
 from the fact that several outrageous mur- 
 ders have been committed there, and the of- 
 fenders allowed to escape punishment, not so 
 much for want of the proper disposition on 
 the part of the inhabitants as for want of the 
 proper laws, officers, and tribunals, to arrest 
 and try for crimes. This evil is now reme- 
 died to a considerable extent, and will no 
 doubt soon be entirely removed. 
 
 The great amount of capital invested by 
 the citizens in wrecking vessels, and the ri- 
 valry among them in being first to discover 
 and relieve vessels in distress, together with 
 the pleasure manifested at obtaining a prize 
 for salvage, have caused strangers to suspect 
 that they rejoiced at the misfortunes of others, 
 and might in some instances have used means 
 
 O 
 
 to cause the very distress they were paid for 
 relieving. Whether there is any thing in this 
 suspicion or not, when wreckers themselves 
 publicly remark, as I heard some of them, 
 that there were plenty of vessels in New 
 Orleans that could be hired to go ashore and 
 be wrecked for five hundred dollars, they 
 cannot blame the suspicious for drawing the 
 most unfavourable inferences as to the con- 
 
 12
 
 134 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 duct of the persons engaged in the business. 
 As to their being glad to get chances to bring 
 in wrecks, they are not the only class who 
 live upon the misfortunes of others ; and 
 where their services are wanted, and are 
 promptly rendered, they are entitled to no- 
 thing the less credit, because, like others, 
 they are pleased with the prospect of promo- 
 ting their own interests. Without attempting 
 to justify the conduct of all, it may safely be 
 said that Key West numbers among its in- 
 habitants as large a proportion of fair, up- 
 right, and honourable business men as any 
 other place in our country. There is a dis- 
 trict judge, district attorney, and collector, 
 besides several other gentlemen of high re- 
 spectability, intelligence, education, and re- 
 finement ; and, as a general thing, the society 
 is exceedingly good for a small place, devo- 
 ted exclusively to business, and isolated from 
 the rest of the world as this is. 
 
 Here I had the satisfaction of witnessing 
 some of Uncle Sam's naval and military ope- 
 rations against the Indians of Florida. Some 
 three or four revenue cutters, with midship- 
 men for captains, and a hundred redoubtable
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 135 
 
 men on board, came into the harbour from 
 time to time, and most heroically lay at an- 
 chor for several days together, doing nothing 
 except drinking grog, and talking of some 
 grand exploit, at some time or other, in get- 
 ting sight of an Indian, who, of course, ne- 
 ver failed to be killed ; but, as the Indians 
 have a way of running after they are dead, 
 they of course never could find their game. 
 When they got tired of the dulness of Key 
 West, they would weigh anchor and go over 
 to Havana, to supply themselves with the 
 luxuries of a great city. Good heavens ! if 
 this is the way the Indian war is carried on, 
 and these are the men that manage it, no 
 wonder at the disgrace of our arms in being 
 put at defiance for four or five years by a 
 handful of Indians. A hundred such men 
 would flee in dismay from ten well-armed 
 Indians ; but they never will go near enough 
 to try it as long as there are other places to 
 go to. Why do not our Government send a 
 force sufficient to put an end to this pitiful 
 war at once ? Or, if they will not do that, 
 let them offer for each Indian the half what 
 every one heretofore killed or taken has cost ;
 
 136 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 and in six months there would not be an 
 Indian left. It is past endurance, that a 
 nation strong enough to compete with the 
 mightiest nations should thus suffer it- 
 self to be balked by a tribe of savages. 
 But enough of Indian wars and revenue 
 cutter navies, and midshipman captains.
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 137 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Voyage to St. Augustine. 
 
 NOT liking to return to New- York by sea at 
 the early season my engagements required, 
 it had been my design, from the time of 
 leaving St. Croix, to proceed via Charleston, 
 Baltimore, &c. ; but on arriving here, it was 
 ascertained that the Charleston packet, which 
 formerly brought the mail twice a week, had 
 been discontinued, and that there was no rea- 
 sonable expectation of a chance to go north 
 at all without embarking at once for New- 
 York, and that, too, just when the vessel from 
 St. Marks should happen to come, without 
 knowing within a fortnight when to expect 
 it. Several other invalids also desired to 
 go back by degrees ; and besides, we all 
 thought it would be well to take a look at St. 
 Augustine, if possible. Accordingly, after 
 labouring almost incessantly for two weeks, I 
 got up a company of eight passengers for St. 
 Augustine, and chartered a fishing-smack 
 from the good old town of Mystic, Connecti- 
 12*
 
 138 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 cut, to take us there. The vessel was a sloop, 
 of about forty tons burthen, which had been 
 wrecking and fishing during the winter, and 
 was now returning homeward, with eight or 
 nine fishermen, &c. &c., as steerage passen- 
 gers, besides our company, which consisted of 
 six gentlemen and two ladies. The cabin 
 was large for a small vessel, had a state-room 
 for the ladies, and berths for all, except one 
 of us. The odd one, the captain, and several 
 others, who were crowded out of the steerage 
 by our baggage, made a berth of the floor. 
 With this small craft, thus crowded with pas- 
 sengers, on the 25th of March we put to sea 
 for a voyage of six hundred miles, along as 
 dangerous a coast as can be found in our 
 country. However, the wind was fine, and 
 away we went, all in good cheer, glad to 
 make any change to get rid of the dulness of 
 Key West. The sea was so smooth during 
 the day, that no one was sick, and all retired 
 to rest with the consoling idea that we were 
 going through with all smooth water. About 
 midnight, however, the wind blew a gale 
 dead ahead, and being also against the rapid 
 current of the Gulf Stream, rolled up a heavy 
 sea, which soon turned the stoutest stomachs
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 139 
 
 in the cabin. The vessel shipped every sea, 
 which not only prevented any from going on 
 deck, but also produced a flood-tide in the 
 cabin. By-and-by the fall broke, down came 
 the boom, and of course the mainsail, leaving 
 us to roll at the mercy of the waves, and 
 doubling all the horrors of our sea-sickness, 
 making some wish themselves back again, 
 alarming others, and displeasing all. What 
 a family we were, out to sea in a smack, with 
 the wind blowing a gale, and a tremendous 
 sea rolling right over us at every swell ! 
 So much for travelling, for this was part of 
 it, and so I bore it patiently. A storm-sail 
 was soon rigged, and, with our vessel under 
 light sail, away we steered before the wind, 
 to make the nearest harbour. The wind 
 abating, we soon turned round again, and 
 attempted to make headway, but all in vain ; 
 and, after tossing about all day, at night we 
 made a harbour and anchored, which gave 
 us all a fine night's rest. 
 
 The next morning we got under-way 
 again, with the wind fresh, and nearly ahead, 
 which made another rather unpleasant day for 
 us. The day before, many were alarmed at 
 the prospect of destruction from the water ;
 
 140 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 to-day a quite different, equally terrible, and 
 more exciting cause of apprehension was dis- 
 covered. While all was quiet on deck, except 
 now and then a complaint at the slowness of 
 our progress, the ladies came from the cabin, 
 crying " fire ! fire ! " and at the same moment 
 a smoke was seen issuing from the hatchway. 
 This set every one in motion as suddenly as 
 though they had been a regularly organized 
 fire company, and in less than ten minutes, 
 the enemy was subdued, and the direful con- 
 sequences averted. This may seem an inci- 
 dent scarcely worth mentioning ; but whatever 
 it may seem to others, it was no trifle for a 
 dozen or fifteen persons at sea, to find their 
 little vessel on fire within, and beset with a 
 heavy sea without. Towards evening the 
 wind became fair and gentle, and, without 
 further peril or alarm, on the 29th of March, 
 we found ourselves off St. Augustine light- 
 house. Just at this time, the wind increased 
 to almost a gale, and when as near as it was 
 safe to go towards the shore, we had to put 
 about for want of a pilot: no more attention 
 having been paid to our signal by the lazy 
 pilots of the place, than if we had been a crew 
 of pirates, whom they desired to get aground.
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 141 
 
 By sending a boat forward and sounding the 
 way, we found the passage over the bar, and 
 entered the harbour without pilotage, and of 
 course without charge. The stupid pilots 
 were surprised to see us come in, supposing we 
 would wait there till it suited their conve- 
 nience to come after us. The pilots of St. 
 Augustine are not alone in this fault. When 
 there is no competition, they think a vessel 
 dare not attempt to run in without them, and 
 often keep one with a great number of passen- 
 gers, all anxious to get on shore, from twelve 
 to twenty-four hours lying to, with a rough 
 sea, in full view of their port, while the pilot 
 who ought to be on board is drinking grog, or 
 worse employed, on shore. There ought to 
 be the severest penalty imposed on any pilot, 
 who should neglect to board a vessel with all 
 convenient speed whenever the proper sig- 
 nal is given.
 
 142 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 St. Augustine. 
 
 ALTHOUGH previously satisfied from the lati- 
 tude and description of St. Augustine, that it 
 could not be compared favourably with either 
 of the before described places as a resort for 
 invalids, still, as many entertain a different 
 opinion, I determined to examine into every 
 material circumstance with sufficient particu- 
 larity to be able to give a full, fair, just, and 
 impartial account of it. It numbers about 
 two thousand inhabitants : is situate at lati- 
 tude 29 56' north, within half a mile of the 
 open sea, upon the highest land in the vicinity, 
 being a kind of high bank formed of sand and 
 shells, with a light, dry, sandy, dusty soil, for 
 surface. The entrance to the harbour is nar- 
 row and crooked, insomuch that no one wind is 
 fair to take a vessel in or out. The streets are 
 regular, but narrow, many of them being scarce 
 twelve feet wide ; without sidewalks or pave- 
 ments ; with from two to four inches of loose 
 rolling sand on the surface. The situation is
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 143 
 
 bleak, the winds generally prevail from the 
 north-eastward, directly from the ocean, often 
 with sufficient force to drift the sand along 
 the streets, like snow at the north, making it 
 unpleasant, if not dangerous, to face a strong 
 wind with open eyes. About half a mile from 
 the wharf, the ground descends to a marsh, 
 where the water sets in several feet deep at 
 high tide, along a kind of creek several rods 
 wide ; beyond that is another strip of land, 
 about forty rods wide, similar to the first, ex- 
 cept lower, which is generally improved, but 
 not thickly built upon ; then follows another 
 marsh, and a kind of creek, called Matanza's 
 river, where the tide flows ; and then the 
 main land of the peninsula, on a level of about 
 eight or ten feet below the city ; a barren 
 sandy soil, with one or two sand roads through 
 it to the interior, Jacksonville, Picolata, &c. 
 &c., and covered with a thick growth of bush- 
 es and a few scattering yellow pines. The 
 soil about the city in its natural state bears 
 some wild grass, but not enough to form a 
 turf over the sand, or keep it in its place. 
 Above the town is the old Spanish fort, built 
 at great expense, but now going to decay, and 
 used only as a prison. Towards the lower
 
 144 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 end of the city the Government have bar- 
 racks for our troops, where I found one com- 
 pany stationed, amounting to about forty men. 
 There is a large, fine garden attached to the 
 establishment, surrounded with a fine row of 
 young sour orange trees. Almost every house 
 in the city has a large garden, bordered in 
 the like manner, and many of them are en- 
 tirely covered with sweet orange trees, to the 
 exclusion of every thing else. Others are de- 
 voted to the culture of the mulberry tree, an 
 article at present in high demand, and from 
 which half the inhabitants of St. Augustine 
 expect to make a fortune. The other half 
 are sure to make one by their orange groves, 
 i. e. if they are not mistaken in their calcu- 
 lations. They appear to flourish well, have 
 several years' growth, and some of the largest 
 have begun to blossom, but not an orange is 
 to be seen. The cold winter of 1835 killed 
 all their trees, and compelled them to begin 
 asrain. If the frost does not come too hard 
 
 o 
 
 again, they will have fruit in two or three 
 years. It is said, with how much truth I do 
 not know personally, but have never heard it 
 disputed, that the oranges of St. Augustine 
 were preferred to those of Havana in the
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 145 
 
 New-York market, and that every season was 
 productive. Not finding many large dead 
 trees, or stumps of them, however, led me to 
 suspect that fortunes never were made here 
 by raising oranges, and very probably never 
 will be. The raising and selling young trees, 
 either orange or mulberry, however, is a very 
 profitable business as long as there are plenty 
 of purchasers ; but if the supply happens to 
 exceed the demand, the speculation will turn 
 out like a great many others of modern times. 
 Many suppose the climate must be very fine 
 and free from cold, because oranges can be 
 produced here ; but when it is considered that 
 they will endure, without injury, the temper- 
 ature of 12 below freezing, it is not at all 
 surprising that good fires and thick overcoats 
 should be very necessary articles in an orange- 
 growing country. When the trees were killed 
 here, the thermometer fell to 22 below freez- 
 ing, or, in other words, 8 above zero. This 
 was cold enough to make ice to skate upon. 
 On the 27th of March, only two days before 
 my arrival, it fell to freezing within eight 
 miles of the city, and nearly as low in town. 
 
 It was not my intention to have devoted as 
 much attention to this place till convinced 
 13
 
 146 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 by the conversations of my fellow-passengers 
 from Key West, and the invalids and inhabi- 
 tants here, with what determined tenacity 
 many still adhere to the idea that there is no 
 occasion for invalids going out of the United 
 States to find a climate suitable to relieve them 
 from the terrible diseases contracted in the 
 severe climate of the north. 
 
 I was hardly credited at Key West when I 
 assured them that the south side of Cuba was 
 much warmer and pleasanter than that place ; 
 that the haze in the sky at morning and eve- 
 ning, and the moisture of the sand along the 
 streets in the morning, were evidences of a 
 humid, though not a rainy atmosphere. Be- 
 cause it did not rain often, it was declared 
 very dry ; because at Havana they have 
 northers and rains, it was declared as good as 
 Cuba ; and because it was much warmer than 
 any other place in our country, it was declared 
 warm enough. It was, in truth, however, so 
 good, that, susceptible as I was to the effects 
 of a bad climate, and particularly cold, my 
 time there had been passed with a great de- 
 gree of comfort ; and on our passage, in dis- 
 cussing our preferences for the respective 
 places we had visited, I had a strong argu*
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 147 
 
 ment in my favour from the fact that every one 
 of them, though improved, was still labouring 
 under his old difficulties, whereas, during the 
 whole passage, I had no appearance of catarrh, 
 cough, or asthma, and scarcely any of dyspep- 
 sia : a sure indication that my improvement 
 had been greater than theirs. On coming on 
 shore I felt, and looked too, like a well man, 
 and was highly pleased to think of getting so 
 far north without a return of the old difficul- 
 ties. The very first night, however, the cold 
 began to produce its effect. All were glad to 
 sit, with shut doors and windows, around a 
 good blazing fire, and, in spite of all precau- 
 tions, the exciting stimulus of the cold air 
 produced first pain in the head and spine, then 
 an oppression upon the chest, then dyspepsia, 
 catarrh, and asthma : by the third night it was 
 impossible to draw a clear breath, and all the 
 symptoms of my old difficulties appeared to 
 be returning with redoubled force. There 
 were several very pleasant days. i. e. when the 
 sky was clear; but then, although the ther- 
 mometer stood in the middle of the day at 
 about 70 in the shade, and although perspira- 
 tion was readily produced by walking in the 
 sun, still, such was the force of the north wind,
 
 148 
 
 that the moment I found myself in the shade, 
 or in any current of air, the perspiration was 
 suddenly checked, and the sensation of cold 
 apparently as great as k would be with the 
 thermometer at 40 at the north. Although 
 others did not feel the cold so much, still 
 the fact that they all sat around a good large 
 fire at morning and evening, was some evi- 
 dence that they did not feel comfortable with- 
 out it. The dining-room r as well as sitting- 
 room, had to be heated up by fire to make it 
 comfortable, and this down to the 10th of April, 
 in an orange-growing country, and a supposed 
 suitable resort for invalids. Comment is un- 
 necessary. The thing speaks for itself. It is 
 not only absurd, but almost wicked, to send a 
 sick man here for his health, when it is just as 
 easy to send him to a better place. Eveiy one 
 at all sensitive knows how unpleasant it is at 
 the north in the spring and fall, when it is so 
 warm in the middle of the day that no atten- 
 tion is paid to fires at morning and evening, 
 rainy days, &c., to stand or sit about, half 
 shivering, but still scarcely cold enough to 
 admit of fire without being too warm. Just 
 so it is, and must be here much of the time 
 during the winter, for it is only when coldest
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 149 
 
 that fires are made. More than half of the 
 time I remained here it was cold and cloudy, 
 with a severe north-east wind. This wind is 
 nothing like those of the West Indies, which, 
 though often fresh, are warm and bland; but, 
 on the contrary, is as sour, cold, and piercing, 
 as half-frozen vinegar. Situate on the borders 
 of the temperate, so near the torrid zone, it is 
 natural enough to expect a great proportion 
 of cold north wind, with now and then a veiy 
 warm breeze from the south, thus making the 
 climate exceedingly variable. There were 
 one or two days, however, when the winds 
 slackened, the sky became bright, and the at- 
 mosphere became dry enough to affect respi- 
 ration unfavourably. As the country in its 
 vicinity is mostly composed of dry sand, it is 
 probable the westerly winds prove injurious 
 to lung complaints from their dryness, and the 
 northerly and easterly winds must be injuri- 
 ous from their cold, sharp, cutting severity. 
 The south-east winds are the most favourable, 
 but are seldom and of short duration. A cloak 
 is quite as necessary an article to safety and 
 comfort here as at New- York, for the general 
 temperature being higher, makes the cold more 
 perceptible and more dangerous. 
 13*
 
 150 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 The above objections to this place were so 
 well known to me before, that I supposed 
 others must know them also, and that not 
 more than four or five invalids would be 
 found here ; but, so far from such being the 
 fact, more than twenty were here on my ar- 
 rival, eight or ten had returned, and thirteen 
 had died within the last four months. The 
 death of invalids of itself proves nothing 
 against a climate ; but when so large a pro- 
 portion have died here, while at St. Croix, 
 not by any means the best climate that can be 
 found, out of a larger number of the most 
 dangerous cases, the deaths during the same- 
 time have been only six or seven ; this, in 
 my estimation, "serves to thicken with the 
 other proofs" against the claimed superiority 
 of climate. Many, no doubt, came here far 
 gone with consumption ; so did those who 
 died at St. Croix : but several of those who 
 can never hope to recover, instead of being 
 cut off at once, are so much relieved as to 
 prolong their lives, and give nature a fair 
 chance of effecting a cure. I found here one 
 gentleman from Boston, of great intelligence 
 and respectability, who had travelled much, 
 and, on the whole, preferred this place for
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 151 
 
 himself to any other. His was an affection 
 of the lungs, though not a bad case. He 
 looked pretty well, but did not pretend to go 
 out at night nor in the morning without his 
 cloak on and his neck well bundled up. He 
 had been to St. Croix, but did not like the 
 climate, because too warm, producing debility. 
 Several of his family had the fever while 
 there, which no doubt influenced his judg- 
 ment against the climate, as having the asth- 
 ma did mine against that of this place. 
 Another gentleman who had spent the winter 
 of 1836-7 at St. Croix, thought that climate 
 bad and this worse. His daughter died at St. 
 Croix, which no doubt had its influence in 
 forming his opinion of it. He was convinced 
 that he was no better here than he should be 
 at home, in Rochester, New- York. His was 
 an affection of the throat and bronchial tubes. 
 A young man from western New-York, with 
 a consumption, as he thought, had found 
 himself some better than at the north, but he 
 complained of the climate as being too cold. 
 Another that fell under my observation was 
 in the last stages of consumption, and will 
 soon add another to the list of deaths this sea- 
 son. There are some persons residing here
 
 152 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 who at first came out for their health, and 
 have entirely recovered. Some of my fellow- 
 passengers from Key West thought the cold 
 was not very objectionable, and the one who 
 had no cough talked of coming here to reside. 
 On the whole, I have no doubt, that, in cases 
 of mere predisposition to disease, benefit has 
 been, and may sometimes be, derived from a 
 winter residence here, but that those who are 
 really suffering from the effects of cold might 
 about as well stay at home. Very good medi- 
 cal attendance can be procured here, but the 
 charges are high, being about five dollars for 
 a first visit to a stranger, and probably nearly 
 as much for each succeeding visit. There 
 is no dispute about the general salubrity of 
 the place. It is small and dull, without 
 amusements, and without any horses or 
 carriages to let, or other means of enabling 
 strangers to ride, and it is difficult to disco- 
 ver that it excels Key West in any thing 
 except greater extent of territory, a pros- 
 pect of speculating in Florida lands, and 
 the more frequent opportunity of sending 
 and receiving communications by mail. 
 The mail goes to and from Savannah twice 
 a week, and arrives there in about four
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 153 
 
 days. The expense of board is about the 
 same as at Key West ; the living- not as 
 good as might be had at that place, but 
 houses and furnishing better. Fine oysters 
 abound here, however, as a substitute for 
 the turtle of Key West. There are two 
 large and commodious hotels, capable of 
 entertaining forty or fifty persons each.. 
 The Florida House, kept by Mr. Thomp- 
 son, is a large, commodious, and well reg- 
 ulated establishment, considering the cir- 
 cumstances of the place ; and, although 
 somewhat expensive, good fires were gene- 
 rally provided, to obviate the severity of the- 
 weather. It costs five dollars to go to Jack- 
 sonville in a bad stage. Steamboats ran pret- 
 ty regularly from the St. John's river to Savan- 
 nah, but none from here anywhere north. 
 
 A packet schooner runs regularly from 
 here to Charleston, at ten dollars passage, 
 but owing to north-east winds, it is some- 
 times impossible to get out of the harbour 
 for a month at a time. I was detained in 
 that manner for ten days, during which pe- 
 riod I wrote this description, in a room 
 without fire, with a cloak on, and feet cold 
 in spite of thick boots : suffering from asth-
 
 154 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 ma, fearing worse further north, still 
 burning with impatience on account of the 
 delay. If this ought to detract any thing 
 from the weight due to the opinions above 
 expressed, make the necessary deduction : 
 but as to all the facts, they are just as true 
 as they would be, if I were ever so much 
 pleased with the place, and owned large 
 tracts of Florida lands, like some who have 
 given different accounts. If any one doubts, 
 I have but one answer : let him try it. 
 
 The following table shows the general 
 state of the weather for one year previous 
 to April, 1839: 
 
 1838. Highest. 
 
 Lowest. Rainy Days. 
 
 April, 
 
 73 
 
 54 
 
 3 
 
 May, 
 
 78 
 
 61 
 
 2 
 
 June, 
 
 79 
 
 71 
 
 18 
 
 July, 
 
 89 
 
 70 
 
 4 
 
 August, 
 
 86 
 
 76 
 
 ' 12 
 
 September, 
 
 86 
 
 64 
 
 12 
 
 October, 
 
 85 
 
 52 
 
 8 
 
 November, 
 
 85 
 
 46 
 
 3 
 
 December, 
 
 80 
 
 24 Frost. 
 
 4 
 
 1833. 
 
 
 
 
 January, 
 
 78 
 
 42 
 
 4 
 
 February, 
 
 79 
 
 46 
 
 6
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 155 
 
 1839* Highest. Lowest. Rainy Days. 
 
 March, 86 36 Frost. 3 
 
 10th April, 70 56 2 
 
 It will thus be seen that the summer 
 months alone are far from too low a tem- 
 perature for invalids, and that it would be 
 more wise to send them at that season 
 than any other. They would avoid the 
 extreme variations of the north from 90 to 
 40, which always must be injurious at any 
 season or place. But the marshes in the 
 vicinity harbour too many mosquitoes in 
 summer to allow one a moment's quiet : 
 so I was informed by a family who had 
 resided there a year, and which rather sur- 
 prised me, as it seemed from the state of 
 the weather in April, that mosquitoes would 
 freeze in summer. These marshes, too, in 
 warm weather, must produce a bad effect 
 upon the atmosphere. 
 
 At the time of writing the above, I sup- 
 posed the wind was coming about, so as 
 to take me along to some place, if no bet- 
 ter, at least free from pretensions to a fine 
 climate. Nothing can be worse than to find 
 oneself imprisoned in this little village ; 
 kept a whole week or more with a cold,
 
 156 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 piercing wind drifting the sand along the 
 streets, and into his eyes, with sometimes 
 a chance at a fire morning and evening, 
 and sometimes a chance to wrap up in a 
 cloak and shiver without any ; and many 
 times too cold to keep warm by walking 
 in the sun-shine ; with numbers of misera- 
 ble patients hovering about the fire, telling 
 stories of distress, while others are busily 
 engaged in extolling the climate. It is al- 
 together unendurable to hear it. Why, a 
 man that would not feel too cold here, 
 would stand a six years' residence in Green- 
 land, or send an invalid to the Great 
 Dismal Swamp for health. The truth is, 
 a man in health can judge no better of 
 the fitness of a climate for invalids than a 
 blind man of colours. He has no sense 
 by which to judge of it. His is the feel- 
 ing of the well man, but not of the sick. 
 I have been healthy, and now I am sick ; 
 and know the above remark is correct. 
 No getting away, blow blow blow, 
 north-east winds are sovereigns here, forci- 
 bly restraining the free will of every-body, 
 and keeping every thing at a stand except 
 the tavern-bill, which runs against all winds
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 157 
 
 and weather. Here are forty passengers, 
 besides a vessel, detained for ten days by 
 the persevering obstinacy of the tyrant wind, 
 while its music roars along the shore, 
 to regale us by night as well as by day, 
 and keep us in constant recollection of the 
 cause of detention. Oh, for a steamboat, 
 that happiest invention of man, that goes 
 in spite of wind and tide ! Talk of dan- 
 ger ! Why, rather than be detained in this 
 manner, I would take passage on board a 
 balloon, or a thunder cloud. Any thing 
 to get along. 
 
 These north-easters are what used to be 
 called "orange winds," because, when a 
 cargo of fruit was put on board, it was 
 often ten days before it was possible to get 
 out of the harbour, during which time the 
 whole would decay, and thereby make a 
 market for another cargo. This is another 
 impediment to making fortunes by growing 
 oranges at St. Augustine. 
 
 Instead of riding for amusement, as at 
 St. Croix, the invalids here appear to have 
 taken a great fancy to cutting and trimming 
 orange sticks for canes. Having nothing 
 else to do, many of them work as indus- 
 14
 
 158 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 triously at this as so many mechanics toil- 
 ing for their daily wages. To see a dozen 
 men sitting along the sunny side of the 
 house, all engaged in whittling, forcibly re- 
 minded me of the remark of Mrs. Trol- 
 lope, "that the Americans were a whittling 
 nation." Every one intends to carry home 
 canes enough to present one to each of his 
 friends, as an everlasting memorial of the 
 far-off and never-to-be-forgotten city of St. 
 Augustine, where orange trees will grow in 
 spite of frost, except once in four or five 
 years, when it comes too hard.
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 159 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Return to New-York. 
 
 AT length, after twelve days severe north- 
 east wind, to the great joy of the passengers, 
 and misfortune of landlords, on the 10th of 
 April the smoke from the chimney- tops was 
 observed to incline to the northward ; and 
 about four o'clock, p. M., we got out of the 
 harbour, and stretched our way for Charleston 
 with a fair breeze. On board was a lady 
 who had just buried her husband, who had 
 vainly resorted to the climate of St. Augus- 
 tine for relief from a pulmonary complaint, 
 and now, with a little child, the only rem- 
 nant of her family, was making her way to 
 the north, lamenting her fate, and regretting 
 the vain experiment of such a change of cli- 
 mate. A circumstance like this, as usual, 
 impressed me with a deep tone of melan- 
 choly ; but it made but little impression upon 
 the inhabitants of the place, to whom such 
 occurrences seemed to be familiar. Before 
 leaving, the weather had become warmer, my
 
 160 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 difficulties had somewhat subsided, and but 
 for the idea of being forcibly detained, 
 the last few days would have passed 
 with a tolerable degree of comfort. On ar- 
 riving at Charleston the weather was fine, 
 the air moist, but bland, not unlike that of St. 
 Croix in January ; and, on the whole, my 
 health appeared about as good as at the time 
 of leaving Key West. From inquiry, I 
 learned that the weather for ten days previ- 
 ous had been much better at Charleston than 
 at St. Augustine ; but, as a general remark, 
 it is true that Charleston has a worse climate 
 for invalids than St. Augustine. Although 
 a fine city, and in many respects a pleasant 
 place, it is surrounded by low grounds, mud 
 and marshes, and but for the purifying influ- 
 ence of the salt water, which freely ebbs and 
 flows there, would be a very unhealthy place. 
 There is generally but little sickness, how- 
 ever, except some cases of yellow fever in 
 summer, which proves fatal to strangers, and 
 sometimes to inhabitants. Unlike most cities, 
 it is healthier than the country in its vicinity ; 
 and in very warm weather, it is said, an in- 
 habitant cannot go out of town without tak- 
 ing a fever. Very good packets carry pas-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 161 
 
 senders from Charleston to New- York for 
 twenty to twenty-five dollar^ generally mak- 
 ing the passage in from four to- eight days ; 
 and many persons travelling north were in 
 doubt whether to go- by sea or land : I con- 
 cluded to try the latter. Another question to 
 be settled was between taking a steamboat 
 direct for Norfolk, doubling Cape Hatteras, at 
 twenty-five dollars passage, and going by 
 steamboat to Wilmington, North Carolina, 
 and thence to Norfolk via the Wilmington 
 and Halifax, and Portsmouth and Roanoke 
 railroads. Here was a difference of opinion ; 
 but as the former, going only once a week, 
 did not start as soon by one day, I preferred 
 the latter route, which is a daily mail line ; 
 and after a fine night's rest found myself at 
 Wilmington the next morning at about seven 
 o'clock, a distance of one hundred and fifty 
 miles. The town is situate on a sand-bank, 
 in the vicinity of low rice lands and swamps ; 
 but, like all other places, is healthy, if the 
 inhabitants are to be believed. From the 
 steamboat the change to a railroad car was 
 
 o 
 
 rather pleasant ; but, before getting through 
 eighty miles of swampy land, every one 
 wished himself upon the blue waters, where 
 14*
 
 162 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 a pure atmosphere balanced a thousand evils. 
 When from this we changed to the slow mo- 
 tion of a stage-coach, along a similar swamp, 
 night and day, for eighty miles further, some- 
 times almost literally going out of sight of 
 land, and expecting every moment to be 
 upset either upon land or water, no one felt 
 disposed to find fault with a railroad through 
 any country, as it ensured speed, if nothing 
 else. At Welden, North Carolina, we took 
 the Portsmouth and Roanoke railroad, and 
 got through in thirty-six hours from Wil- 
 mington, a distance of three hundred miles. 
 Almost the whole country appeared one con- 
 tinuous swamp, with clay bottom, sandy soil, 
 and a growth of pitch-pine trees, entirely in- 
 capable of the production of any thing but 
 turpentine, tar, and fever and ague. Here 
 and there a spot of high ground was cleared 
 and inhabited, exhibiting now and then a 
 few fruit trees in blossom, contrasting finely 
 with the gloomy monotony of pitch-pine 
 forests. Nobody, however, would live here 
 who had ever seen any other country ; but, 
 in the consoling belief that the country is 
 as healthy as any in the world, many have 
 lived there till they have become proof
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 163 
 
 against ague, and without, apparently, being 
 at all dissatisfied with their condition. At 
 about midnight, in company with a fellow- 
 traveller, I walked on while the horses were 
 being changed, and, perceiving a bright pine 
 fire at a distance, upon a little elevation 
 above the surrounding country, with some 
 waggons around it, went up to see what 
 might be there. Two or thre^ men were 
 sleeping, without covering, upon the damp 
 earth, as quietly as though they had been 
 reposing *upon beds of down. They were 
 awakened by our approach, and we fell into 
 conversation. They had covered waggons, 
 and were going down to the coast to buy 
 loads of herring to peddle out on their re- 
 turn. I asked one of them why he did not 
 get under the cover of his waggon to sleep. 
 He replied it was not long enough, and be- 
 sides that it was healthier to lie in the open 
 air. "I understand," said he, "the people at 
 the north sleep in the house all the time, and 
 that it makes them sickly." Half mankind 
 are just about as good philosophers upon 
 this subject as these waggoners, vainly im- 
 agining that any thing is healthy which can 
 be lived through. As the coach came up, I
 
 164 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 ironically remarked to my companion that I 
 had an idea of taking lodgings with the wag- 
 goners ; whereupon, taking me in earnest, one 
 and all exclaimed, "you are welcome, stran- 
 ger." This trifling interview seemed impor- 
 tant enough for a midnight scene in a North 
 Carolina swamp, and gave a better idea of 
 the character and manners of the lower class 
 of people there than could be obtained by read- 
 ing for a week. If these swamps extend for a 
 hundred or more rniles in width through 
 South Carolina and Georgia, also, as well as 
 part of Florida, as I have no doubt they do, 
 no wonder the north winds bear along an 
 unwholesome air even as far south as Key 
 West. It is impossible that any place less 
 than a thousand miles to the leeward should 
 enjoy a good climate. 
 
 From Portsmouth a fine boat, starting at 
 evening, took us to Baltimore by nine o'clock 
 the next mornins:. But although a number 
 
 o o 
 
 of passengers were extremely anxious to take 
 the first train of cars to Philadelphia, and got 
 their baggage alongside the street where they 
 passed, they would not stop to take us in, 
 under the pretence that they had not time. 
 As the railroad, steamboat, and all, are in the
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 165 
 
 hands of one company, they knew they were 
 sure of our money the next trip, and little did 
 they care for the rest. I had exposed my 
 health by riding through the swamps in the 
 night to save a day, and here lost it again for 
 want of that spirit of accommodation that is 
 always sure to prevail, except where charter- 
 ed monopolies have the power in their own 
 hands. If passengers knew they were liable 
 thus to lose the time attempted to be saved in 
 going from Charleston to New- York by land, 
 a packet would be preferred in a majority of 
 cases. The expense is not half as much, the 
 trouble less, and the usual passage but a day 
 or two longer. After passing a day very 
 pleasantly in Baltimore, at night I was off for 
 New- York, where, by the force of steam, I 
 arrived the next day at 4 p. M. The inland 
 passage from Charleston costs about fifty dol- 
 lars, and by sea about twenty. Persons 
 returning from the West Indies in the spring, 
 especially invalids, will find it pleasanter to 
 land at Charleston, and make the residue in- 
 land, instead of venturing on the northern 
 
 ' O 
 
 coast in bad weather ; but, after the first of 
 May, in spite of sea-sickness, the sea-passage 
 is far preferable to the inland.
 
 166 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 I had returned home with fear and trem- 
 bling, in the expectation of a return of my old 
 complaints, in a worse degree than at St. Au- 
 gustine ; but happily, the result was far other- 
 wise, the cold being felt but little more here 
 than there ; and after contrasting my present 
 health with what it was at leaving, my im- 
 provement was found to have been much 
 greater than I had yet been aware of. Every 
 one who met me expressed their surprise at 
 the change, and pronounced the cure com- 
 plete. But in this they are mistaken. The 
 first wind of winter will drive me south 
 again ; and it would be presumptuous to at- 
 tempt to avoid it. 
 
 In four and a half months, during which 
 time the most that could have been expected 
 at the north would have been the mainte- 
 nance of a miserable existence, by means of 
 heavy clothing and hot fires, with constant 
 confinement, I made six voyages at sea, four 
 by steamboats, two hundred and thirty miles 
 by railroads, and eighty in stage coaches, 
 which, altogether, amounted to forty-six hun- 
 dred miles by sea and land, without suffering, 
 except from sea-sickness, and at an expense 
 of only about five hundred dollars for the
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 167 
 
 whole time. By going to one place, and 
 there remaining during the winter, the ex- 
 penses of an invalid need not exceed three 
 hundred dollars : a mere trifle, compared 
 with the advantages almost sure to be gained 
 even by those who do not thereby regain their 
 health. By this remark, however, I do not 
 mean to encourage the idea of sending abroad 
 patients with confirmed consumption. It is 
 much better they should remain at home.
 
 168 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 General Observations. 
 
 As Key West and St. Augustine are the only 
 places claimed to be favourable for invalids 
 in the United States, except some prospective 
 towns in the vicinity of each, and as each of 
 these are far inferior to a hundred places in 
 the West Indies, it becomes unnecessary to 
 discuss the merits of several other places 
 which were formerly much resorted to, but 
 which now send their quota of invalids to 
 other and more favourable situations. During 
 my tour I have met with invalids from Bos- 
 ton, New-Bedford, Providence, New-Haven, 
 New- York, Albany, Fonda, Utica, Rochester, 
 Buffalo, Philadelphia, Indiana, Ohio, Balti- 
 more, Charleston, Savannah, Macon, Pensa- 
 cola, Tallahasse, (Fa.,) New-Orleans, and Tex- 
 as, and more than five to one of the whole 
 number fully agree with me in the opinion, 
 that, with some few exceptions, arising from 
 the nature or state of the disease, any point in 
 the United States is, by its geographical po-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 169 
 
 sition, too cold to furnish the desired relief, 
 and that Key West is the only place that can 
 plausibly claim to be an exception to the 
 general rule. As some may still feel disposed 
 to prefer the latter rather than depart from 
 their own country, and others, though prefer- 
 ring the West Indies, may, from some cause, 
 desire to visit places there other than those 
 above described, I will proceed to detail such 
 information as I have been able to obtain in 
 regard to places which, though not much re- 
 sorted to, are undoubtedly similar in many 
 respects to those above described. 
 
 Porto Rico, a large Spanish island, situate 
 only one to three degrees to the westward of 
 St. Oroix, has a rich soil, producing sugar- 
 cane in great abundance and with little la- 
 bour, with a large proportion of wild, uncul- 
 tivated land, covered with a heavy growth of 
 timber. Large fortunes have been, and no 
 doubt may still be, made there by purchasing 
 wild land and commencing sugar estates. 
 The best soil produces from three to four 
 hogsheads of sugar to the acre, besides the 
 usual proportion of molasses, whereas at St. 
 Croix two hogsheads to the acre is considered 
 a good crop. From the appearance of the 
 15
 
 170 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 high lands which I saw, in passing along the 
 southerly coast, it seemed to me that the cli- 
 mate, in some parts of it at least, must be 
 healthy ; but, generally among those best ac- 
 quainted with the island, the climate is pro- 
 nounced bad. One of the boarding-houses at 
 St. Croix is kept by a lady who owns an 
 estate in Porto Rico, but will not reside upon 
 it on account of its unhealthiness. A gentle- 
 man now residing at Key West for his health 
 informed me. however, that he spent part of a 
 winter at Porto Rico very pleasantly, and had 
 found no fault with the climate. This, to- 
 gether with its situation and appearance, con- 
 vinced me that the south-westerly part of it 
 must enjoy a fine climate. To the northward 
 and eastward, too many rains are attracted to 
 it in the same manner as at St. Croix, and the 
 soil being rich, new, and deep, no doubt re- 
 tains sufficient moisture to produce fevers ; 
 and, as this part is generally most settled, the 
 general reputation of unhealthiness has fol- 
 lowed as a matter-of-course. A person able 
 to enjoy himself in travelling would probably 
 travel there without injury, and perhaps with 
 benefit to his health ; but the modes of con- 
 veyance and other accommodations for tra-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 171 
 
 vellers would not be likely to suit an Ameri- 
 can, and Cuba, Jamaica, or the Spanish Main, 
 would present a far more interesting field for 
 the observations of the traveller. 
 
 The Windward Islands, as they are called 
 at St. Thomas and St. Croix, were considered 
 by many well worth the expense of a visit, 
 though I never heard one of them spoken of 
 as a favourable resort for invalids, and from 
 the description of them, contained in Halliday's 
 West Indies, it appears that most, if not all, of 
 them are unhealthy. An English steamboat 
 runs from one to the other, and from thence to 
 Jamaica, touching at St. Thomas, making 
 regular trips, and carrying a mail, but the fare 
 is too high to suit Americans, who are in the 
 habit of going by steam for from one to two 
 dollars the hundred miles. From St. Thomas 
 to Jamaica, a distance of about five hundred 
 miles, it is sixty dollars, besides one dollar and 
 fifty cents per day for meals, and for other 
 places in proportion. A fellow-passenger 
 from St. Croix to Trinidad, had visited Mar- 
 tinico, St. Vincent, Barbadoes, Nevis, Trini- 
 dad, and several other islands ; and, although 
 highly pleased with the situation and beauti- 
 ful scenery of several, particularly those
 
 172 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 belonging to the British, he agreed with me 
 in preferring the climate of Trinidad de Cuba 
 to any he had ever known. He found no per- 
 ceptible improvement of his health, till after 
 about two weeks' residence at the latter place, 
 when it became so great, that, contrary to his 
 previous intention of returning to Philadelphia 
 in the same vessel, he concluded to remain for 
 a month or two longer, and was enjoying the 
 luxury of a fine climate, with continued bene- 
 fit, at the time of my departure. 
 
 The Spanish Main, situate in a favourable 
 latitude, with ample extent of territory, and 
 choice of elevation from the plains on a level 
 with the ocean, to the loftiest mountains, 
 must afford many excellent locations in point 
 of salubrity of climate. An invalid disposed 
 to travelling could scarcely find a country in 
 the tropical regions holding out greater at- 
 tractions, but he must have the requisite 
 amount of health left, to endure fatigue and 
 such fore as he meets with, there being no 
 boarding-house to fix up dainties for the deli- 
 cate, or any other suitable provision for the 
 accommodation of the feeble. Some of those 
 at St. Croix made an excursion thither, and 
 were much pleased with the tour. There are
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 173 
 
 frequent opportunities thither from St. Tho- 
 mas, and very good vessels are constantly sail- 
 ing to and from New- York, and Laguira, and 
 Porto Cabello. 
 
 Jamaica is a large British island, situate in 
 a favourable latitude, with abundance of high, 
 dry, and some very mountainous situations ; 
 and from all the information I can obtain, with- 
 out a single cause of unhealthiness of climate. 
 Still, while every one agrees in pronouncing 
 it a very beautiful country, presenting many 
 attractions, I have never heard it recommended 
 as a resort for invalids, but, on the contrary, 
 almost every one, in general terms, pronounces 
 it unhealthy. The city of Kingston, from its 
 peculiar situation, is subject to yellow fever 
 at all seasons of the year, and, as that is the 
 principal port of entry, all strangers going 
 there naturally take their impressions of the 
 place from the prevalent opinion of the resi- 
 dents of the city, without particularly inquir- 
 ing into the distinguishing circumstances 
 between town and country. It is impossible 
 for me to believe, however, that there are no 
 favourable locations for invalids in Jamaica. 
 Mountains and clear rivers are highly 
 favourable circumstances to the salubrity of 
 15*
 
 174 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 climate any where, particularly in a tropi- 
 cal latitude. The variation in elevation is 
 great enough to give ample choice of temper- 
 ature, from perpetual summer heat, to the 
 temperature of fall and spring, in New Eng- 
 land. In the higher regions, the apple flour- 
 ishes well, and it must there be cool enough 
 for any body ; and no one will dispute that the 
 lower ones are hot enough. Consumptions 
 sometimes occur here, probably among the 
 mountains ; and two years ago, one of the in- 
 valids at St. Croix was a consumptive patient 
 from Jamaica. Circumstances like this have 
 no doubt contributed to the generally unfa- 
 vourable reputation of the climate. 
 
 Those disposed to travel might do well at 
 least to give it a fair examination. If dissatis- 
 fied, it is easy to get away ; but the expenses 
 of travelling and living there are greater than 
 any where in Cuba, except Havana. Those 
 who are anxious to witness the practical ope- 
 ration of the aboliton of slavery, will find an 
 additional inducement to visit the island. I 
 have heard many speak of it as highly disas- 
 trous to the interests of the country. Property 
 of all hinds has fallen ; in fine, business has 
 almost come to a stand, it being impossible to
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 175 
 
 procure labourers to carry on the plantations. 
 The daily wages of negroes is only twenty- 
 five cents besides their board, which, in point 
 of economy, would be better than to have 
 them slaves; but the difficulty is, they will 
 never work more than three days at a time. 
 Seventy-five cents makes them rich, and they 
 are obliged to take the next three days to spend 
 the money. It is said, with how much accu- 
 racy I am unable to say, that in a warm cli- 
 mate, where the actual necessities of life can 
 be so easily procured, the natural improvi- 
 dence and indolence of the negro race ren- 
 ders it impossible to induce them to work, 
 and that the recently freed slaves are gene- 
 rally an insolent, indolent, and, in all respects, 
 worthless class of people. Exceptions .no 
 doubt there are, but this is the general charac- 
 ter. I have heard no one who had ever been 
 there express a contrary opinion. 
 
 The island of Cuba has so many cities and 
 towns besides those I have visited, that a few 
 general remarks in relation to several of them, 
 and the island in general, can scarcely fail of 
 proving acceptable to the reader. It is about 
 seven hundred miles long, extending from 
 south-east to north-west, contains from seven
 
 176 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 hundred thousand to a million inhabitants, has 
 a luxuriant soil, healthy climate, and is by far 
 the most important of all the West Indies. 
 Formerly the Government was committed to 
 men unworthy of so important a trust, under 
 whose administration crimes became preva- 
 lent, and went unpunished, bribery furnish- 
 ing a good defence to all accusations, and 
 purchasing exemption from all penalties. 
 About ten years since, the Government of 
 Spain appointed one Tacon Captain-Gen- 
 eral, with full powers over all the pro- 
 vinces and provincial Governors of the 
 island. Under his vigorous administration a 
 code of laws was established and enforced ; 
 pirates and robbers had their heads taken off 
 and suspended in a kind of cage along the 
 streets, as a warning to evil-doers ; thieves, 
 blacklegs, and swindlers, were put in prison, 
 and set to work in improving the cities ; and 
 it soon became unsafe to attempt to carry on 
 lawsuits by bribery and perjury. Although 
 lie has ceased to be Captain-General, the com- 
 munity are still enjoying the blessings of his 
 laws and regulations ; and, in no country per- 
 haps on earth, is there a greater regard paid to 
 the laws, or fewer crimes committed.
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 177 
 
 Before Tacon was Captain-General, the 
 planters and other wealthy men took their 
 own time to pay such debts as were owing to 
 poorer persons, or, rather, did not pay them at 
 all. It was in vain to sue, for the expenses of 
 litigation were such, that a poor man could 
 never enforce a claim against a wealthy debt- 
 or. Tacon adopted a new plan of enforcing 
 the claims of the poor against the rich. When 
 complaint was made in behalf of the former 
 against the latter, instead of sending a writ, 
 the Governor would send to the defendant 
 a requisition to appear before him at an ap- 
 pointed hour. When he arrived he would 
 ask him if he owed such a person. The an- 
 swer would be "yes, but it is not convenient to 
 pay it now ; I will pay it in six months." The 
 Governor would then pay the debt himself, 
 and tell the defendant to recollect the Captain- 
 General was his creditor, and the day of pay- 
 ment must be remembered. Creditors, of 
 course, were well pleased with this new mode 
 of enforcing claims; and defendants, however 
 displeased, were obliged to pay their debts, or 
 contend with an opponent more powerful 
 than themselves. 
 
 There is a standing army of about eighteen
 
 178 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 thousand men stationed in the different cities, 
 all paid, fed, and clothed at the expense of the 
 Government, almost exclusively for the pur- 
 pose of maintaining public order and insuring 
 public tranquillity. Every soldier is a police- 
 man, whose especial duty it is to prevent af- 
 frays, riots, &c. &c., and arrest and secure all 
 disturbers of the public peace. If a citizen or 
 stranger is, from any cause, apprehensive of 
 an attack in going through the city at night, a 
 soldier, or more if necessary, will go with him 
 and protect him from all harm. I was pleased 
 with the fine appearance of the troops. They 
 are mostly young men, exclusively Spaniards, 
 well fed and neatly clad, always having a 
 clean suit every morning, and not a man of 
 them ever gets drunk. Our army might, in 
 several particulars, take lessons from these 
 Spanish troops with decided advantage. 
 
 All articles imported pay a duty of about 
 thirty per cent., and American flour is charged 
 with the enormous duty of ten dollars per bar- 
 rel. The duty on salt also is about as exorbi- 
 tant. Instead of laying light duties on articles 
 of necessity, they put on the more ; because, 
 being articles of prime necessity, there is no 
 danger that the duty will prevent the impor-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 179 
 
 tation. Aliens are permitted to own real 
 estate, without becoming naturalized, and 
 without extraordinary taxes. Many of our 
 citizens are owning plantations there, and de- 
 riving from them a great income. Sugar 
 estates are extremely profitable, generally 
 yielding from forty to fifty per cent, per an- 
 num on the money invested ; but it takes 
 three or four years, with a large capital, to 
 get fairly under-way, and but few have the 
 requisite amount of money to get success- 
 fully in operation. In the province of Fer- 
 nandina, adjoining Trinidad on the west, 
 there is plenty of sugar-land in market on the 
 following terms, to wit : First two years, 
 gratis ; next eight years, forty-five dollars to 
 the one hundred acres, annual rent ; after 
 that, seventy-five dollars the one hundred 
 acres for ever. This exemption from rent 
 for the first two years, is given to encourage 
 the commencement of sugar estates. The 
 land is described as of an excellent quality, 
 surpassing that of Trinidad. Last year, the 
 exports from the province were only about 
 one-tenth ; this year, nearly one-fourth ; and 
 in a few years, will no doubt equal, if not ex- 
 ceed, those of Trinidad. St. Furgos is the
 
 180 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 capital and only port of entry, and is situate 
 on the southerly side of the island, about 
 forty miles to the west of Trinidad. From 
 the appearance of the country in passing^ 
 and its vicinity to Trinidad, I have no doubt 
 the climate is good. It has not, however, 
 such a barrier of mountains on the north to 
 protect it from the cold winds. 
 
 Cardinas, a town about twenty miles east- 
 erly of Matanzas, on the north side of the 
 island, has lately been made a port of entry, 
 and has plenty of unimproved good cane 
 lands in its vicinity, to be had at about the 
 same terms as those of Fernandina. A rail- 
 road is to be constructed from thence to the 
 cane-growing regions in the interior, which 
 will make it a place of considerable import- 
 ance. These facilities for opening sugar 
 estates strongly incline the coffee-planters 
 to sell their estates, and take up this new 
 land. Such is the expectation of profit from 
 the newly made sugar estates, that coffee 
 estates may be bought at a sum which will 
 realize twenty-five per cent, per annum from 
 the yearly income. The price of coffee 
 estates varies, according to the quantity of 
 land and number of slaves, from ten to fifty
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 181 
 
 thousand dollars. Sugar estates are gener- 
 ally larger, require more slaves, and produce 
 from twenty to a hundred and fifty thousand 
 dollars per annum. Nothing can be more 
 beautiful than a coffee estate, or furnish a 
 more neat pleasant business, for a gentleman 
 who wishes to live at his ease, in a fine cli- 
 mate, and with a home that will supply every 
 luxury of life. If gentlemen who have the 
 means, instead of going to the West Indies 
 for a single winter, when they find pulmo- 
 nary complaints approaching, and then re- 
 turning to the north, where the summers are 
 almost as bad for the lungs as the winters, 
 could be persuaded to buy an estate and re^ 
 move to Cuba at once, they would stand a 
 much better chance of ultimate recovery ; 
 and, at all events, contribute greatly to their 
 own happiness during the residue of their 
 lives. Many, however, would almost prefer 
 death, at home, to an exile from their coun- 
 try ; but I am satisfied that most of their im- 
 pressions upon that subject are founded in 
 prejudice. 
 
 The Catholic religion, and the mode of 
 burying strangers, have had their influence 
 in deterring our citizens from removing to 
 16
 
 182 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 Cuba. I had supposed that every one would 
 be compelled to pay a tax for the support of 
 the church, but it is not so ; no one pays un- 
 less he chooses ; nor do the church or the 
 Government interfere with private opinion as 
 long as there is no open opposition to the 
 church. By their laws, however, children 
 must be christened ; marriage and funeral 
 ceremonies performed by the Catholic church ; 
 and, for every thing of the kind, an ample fee 
 is imposed, by way of support to the estab- 
 lished religion. 
 
 The expenses of a respectable burial are 
 from two to five hundred dollars, and about 
 the same for sending the body out of the 
 country. The keepers of all public houses 
 are subjected to a penalty of fifty dollars for 
 every neglect to report the death of any stran- 
 ger in their house, within twenty-four hours. 
 Their manner of disposing the bodies of de- 
 ceased strangers whose friends do not furnish 
 the requisite amount of money, is shocking 
 to the feelings of our countrymen. At Ha- 
 vana there is not sufficient room in the stran- 
 gers' burying ground to allow the bodies a 
 grave a-piece, or time to decompose, before 
 being thrown up again in digging new
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 183 
 
 graves. No parade is made over the body 
 unless the regular church ceremony is paid 
 for ; but four negroes carry it in a coffin to 
 the grave, which is always ready dug in ad- 
 vance, deep enough to admit of several ; turn 
 the coffin over, and empty its contents into 
 the grave ; throw over a little dirt ; and, with 
 the same coffin, go for another; and, when 
 that is deposited, throw over a little more 
 dirt, and so on as long as any room is left. 
 When the whole ground has been dug over 
 in this manner, the same process is gone 
 through with again ; and, as there are no 
 coffins in the way, the bones are not much of 
 an impediment to the digging. Dry bones 
 lay scattered about the surface, and piles of 
 them are raked up in the corners of this great 
 Potter's Field. In other places there is suffi- 
 cient room for graves, but the mode of inter- 
 ment, in other respects, is the same. This has 
 often been spoken of by Americans as one of 
 the principal objections to a residence in 
 Cuba. It Avould, however, have but little 
 weight with me, if in other respects I found 
 it of advantage to go there, as comforts 
 during life are, in my estimation, of more con- 
 sequence than ceremonies after 4eath ; and
 
 184 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 those ceremonies can be had, for the satis- 
 faction of friends, by paying the necessary- 
 charges. This is the mode adopted there to 
 defray the expenses of the church ; and, how- 
 ever contrary to our feelings, is in reality no 
 worse, if as bad, as a perpetual tax during 
 life for the same purpose. In St. Croix also 
 the same principle is adopted, though the 
 charge is not so high for a funeral ; but for 
 carrying aAvay a body, about two hundred 
 dollars must be paid. As an equivalent for 
 these expenses, and the high duties on im- 
 ports, the Government is very indulgent as 
 to taxes upon real estate : the encouragement 
 of agriculture being with them a favourite 
 object. If heavy taxes, on the whole, are 
 paid to the Government, it should be remem- 
 bered that they are not paid for nothing ; but 
 thereby the inhabitants secure the enjoyment 
 of their property, and are relieved from the 
 apprehension of a rebelling of the slaves, 
 which they would constantly labour under; 
 but for a standing army, kept always ready 
 to put down the first efforts at insurrection. 
 On the whole, the island is far better go- 
 verned than Spain itself, and the inhabitants 
 are generally well satisfied to let things remain.
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 185 
 
 as they are. Those that have property, are of 
 course fearful of change ; and those that have 
 not, are too lazy and indolent a class of peo- 
 ple ever to be roused to a spirit of inde- 
 pendence. 
 
 So great is the indolence of the poorer 
 classes, that no advantage is taken of the 
 thousand opportunities almost every-where 
 presented for the profitable application of uir 
 dustry. Scarcely half the land has ever been 
 cultivated at all, and much of it may be had 
 at prices which place it within the power of 
 almost every one to become a freeholder. 
 But as long as a cjgar can be obtained, smok- 
 ing is preferred to any kind of exertion, no- 
 matter how great the reward. Vegetables are 
 higher in Trinidad market than in- New- 
 York, and are sometimes scarce ; and yet, 
 there are abundance of lands within one mile 
 of the city entirely uncultivated, which, 
 though not of the first quality, would yield 
 handsome incomes, with American industry 
 and enterprise to manage them. 
 
 I have spoken very favourably of the cli- 
 mate of Trinidad, and unfavourably of St. 
 Jago de Cuba. It may be asked why one 
 should not be as good as the other, when both 
 16*
 
 186 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 are, in many respects, similarly situated? The 
 answer is, that although St. Jago is on the 
 south side of the island, and has mountains 
 on- the north, like Trinidad, the former is 
 closely hemmed in on all sides, so as to ex- 
 pose it to the hot sun, without a free circula- 
 tion of air ; whereas, the latter is entirely free 
 from obstruction to any wind, except the 
 north. The country in the vicinity of St. 
 Jago is said to be perfectly healthy; and I 
 have no doubt there are other places as fa- 
 vourably situated, in respect to salubrity of 
 climate, as Trinidad, but it is almost impossible 
 to conceive of any that can be more so. On 
 the south side of the island, opposite Havana, 
 though warm enough, the air was as much 
 worse than that of Trinidad, as the climate of 
 the swampy regions of central New- York is 
 worse than that of the most approved situa- 
 tion on the sea-board in summer. This is the 
 natural consequence of frequent rains, a moist 
 soil, and rank vegetation. Havana and its 
 vicinity have all these, and frequent northers 
 besides. Those who merely wish to get 
 away from the severity of northern winters, 
 and enjoy the luxurious living of a large city, 
 will find Havana a place, in almost every res-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 187 
 
 pect, agreeable to their wishes. Real invalids, 
 however, had better try some other place. 
 
 Indian Key is a small island, containing 
 only about six acres of land, situate about 
 sixty miles eastwardly from Key West ; and is 
 owned by a single individual, who has ex- 
 pended large sums of money in erecting 
 buildings, to make it a suitable resort for 
 invalids, but with little success. The climate 
 is similar to that of Key West, and its soil is 
 far superior, producing a few plantains and 
 other West India vegetables. Several adjacent 
 Keys also produce them in considerable abun- 
 dance. The owner is now making efforts to 
 get it established as a port of entry, with what 
 success remains to be seen. As a resort for 
 invalids, it has nearly all the objections of 
 Key West, besides its very limited dimensions, 
 which must always prevent its successful 
 competition with that place. Several other 
 little Keys in its vicinity are about being 
 fitted up for the same purpose, but can never 
 reasonably hope to succeed to any consider- 
 able extent. When several of them shall 
 come to be inhabited, the monotony may be 
 broken by passing from one to the other ; and, 
 between them and Key West, many will, no
 
 188 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 doubt, pass off a winter with tolerable pa- 
 tience ; but time passes slowly on these little 
 islands, and, as long as the West Indies fur- 
 nish a better climate and greater attractions, 
 they must and will be preferred to any place 
 in our country, by a great majority of travel- 
 ling invalids. Cape Florida has been much 
 thought of, as possessing a fine climate, good 
 soil, and other natural advantage^, superior to 
 either of the above-mentioned Keys ; but r for 
 the present^ the settlement is broken up, and 
 every inhabitant driven off by the Indian war. 
 When the Indians broke up the settlement, 
 after having killed or taken all the other in- 
 habitants, they proceeded to the light-house to 
 take the keeper and his family, if any. He 
 had with him only one person, and that a 
 slave. As the enemy entered below, he as- 
 cended the stairs, tearing them up after him, 
 to prevent their following. In this he was 
 successful, but he found another difficulty to 
 contend with. They set fire to the wood- 
 work within, which blazed through to the top, 
 and compelled the unfortunate refugees to get 
 on to the top of the wall, thus exposing 
 themselves to the heat of the flames, and 
 but illy protecting themselves from the fire of
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 189 
 
 the enemy. The negro was scorched to 
 death, and the keeper, after getting a ball-hole 
 through one of his hands and each of his feet, 
 was abandoned by the Indians, and was after- 
 wards taken down and saved. 
 
 Even when this obstacle shall be removed, 
 it is doubtful whether its other advantages 
 over Key West will be sufficient to compen- 
 sate for the evil of about two degrees higher 
 north latitude, and a large extent of very low 
 country in its vicinity, which, in spite of all 
 that may be said, ever must affect the atmos- 
 phere injuriously. When the southern part 
 of East Florida shall become more settled, 
 many suppose that some situation in the inte- 
 rior may be found, more favourable to health 
 than any place in our country yet known ; 
 but, until such discovery is made, I must re- 
 main of the opinion that a country abounding 
 in swamps and hammocks, as Florida does, 
 whenever it shall become fully settled, will 
 find invalids enough among its own popula- 
 tion, without any supply from other places, 
 and that the invalids of the north will always 
 find places possessing tenfold advantages.
 
 190 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Preparations; 
 
 LADIES travelling for their health, must of 
 course go under the care of some friend or 
 relative ; but gentlemen, who do not expect 
 to be confined to their room, will find it more 
 convenient to leave their wives, if they have 
 any, at home, especially if they have much 
 disposition to travel. The opportunities for 
 passages between the islands are often un- 
 suitable for ladies, but such as would answer 
 for gentlemen ; and any one who has tried it 
 cannot doubt that ladies are not the best tra- 
 velling companions, in the West Indies. Be- 
 sides, it is not generally agreeable to them to 
 make voyages at sea, or journeys by land, 
 where means of travelling are not conve- 
 nient. When, however, it is determined to 
 remain at one place, almost every married 
 gentleman would enjoy himself much better 
 for the society, if not for the care and atten- 
 tion, of his wife. 
 
 As to clothing, although a sufficient sup-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 191 
 
 ply of cloaks, over-coats, thick boots, &c. &c., 
 should be taken to keep warm on the out- 
 ward and homeward voyages, it should always 
 be remembered, that light summer clothing 
 will be principally wanted on arrival at, and 
 while remaining within, the tropics. Flan- 
 nel, however, should not be dispensed with 
 by an invalid for a moment, in a West India 
 or any other climate. However uncomforta- 
 ble by day, it is unsafe to be without it at 
 morning and evening. At St. Augustine, it 
 is too cold for summer clothing at all during 
 the winter months, and, at Key West, it will 
 not answer more than half of the time. Fa- 
 milies intending to keep house, should not 
 encumber themselves with too many articles 
 of furniture : a few light articles, such as mat- 
 tresses, cots, light bedding, a sofa, a few 
 chairs, and a small assortment of crockery 
 and cooking utensils. There is no particu- 
 lar importance in taking any articles of pro- 
 visions, except a little fine, well packed but- 
 ter, and some choice cheese ; both of which 
 are articles hard to be purchased in the West 
 Indies. Almost every other article can be 
 bought in abundance almost anywhere ; but 
 there would be no loss in buying many other
 
 192 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 things at home. Let none omit to take such 
 medicines as may be needed, for the cost of 
 drugs of every kind is outrageous in all the 
 islands, as far as my knowledge extends. 
 None but licensed druggists can sell, and 
 they avail themselves of the advantage of a 
 monopoly. As specimens, I need only men* 
 tion that, at St. Croixj they asked twenty 
 cents an ounce for stick licorice, which is- 
 worth eight cents a pound ; and in Cuba, 
 fifty cents an ounce for super carbonate of 
 soda, worth twenty-five cents a pound. 
 
 Some took their horses and carriages to St. 
 Croix, which was well enough as to the car- 
 riages ; but horses could be bought there 
 cheaper than in New- York, and it cost as 
 much as their whole value to carry them out. 
 To almost any island except the Danish, 
 both horses and carriages would be charged 
 too high a duty to make it profitable to take 
 either. Horses are very low in Cuba, and 
 the duty on carriages is extravagant. 
 
 As to money, gold and silver only will an- 
 swer. Silver dollars are good any where. Pa- 
 triot doubloons for the Windward Islands, and 
 Spanish for Cuba, are the most profitable mo-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 193 
 
 ney that can be taken, there being about one 
 and a half per cent, profit on each. In coming 
 down from the windward to Cuba, something 
 may be made by buying Spanish doubloons 
 for Patriots at a premium of fifty cents, and 
 selling them at a premium of one dollar each 
 at Havana. 
 
 On leaving home, many are apt to under- 
 rate the importance of securing suitable and 
 prompt correspondents, so that every arrival 
 may bring them something fresh from home. 
 Newspapers and literary periodicals are also 
 read with double interest when abroad, and 
 due care should be taken to have a sufficient 
 supply promptly forwarded. By some mis- 
 take of my friend, I was without any direct 
 information from home during the whole 
 
 o 
 
 winter, which was a continual source of an- 
 noyance, disappointment, and irritation. To 
 watch several days for an expected vessel, 
 straining the eyes by gazing upon the sea, and 
 when it came, find neither letter or paper for 
 me, was more than my patience could endure 
 without sore vexation ; and still I was obliged 
 to submit to it six or seven times. 
 
 Above all other considerations, prepare to 
 go early early in the stage of the disease, 
 17
 
 194 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 and early in the season. Nearly half the in- 
 valids fail to derive much benefit from change 
 of climate, solely for the reason that they have 
 waited till their cases were hopeless before 
 trying it : making it a last, and, in many cases, 
 an entirely useless resort. Instead of being 
 the last, it should be the first resort. When- 
 ever any affection of the lungs continues long- 
 er than an ordinary cold, serious danger is 
 always justly to be apprehended ; and no time 
 should be lost in applying the most effectual 
 remedy to wit, a mild, gentle climate, with 
 even temperature. How much more pleasant, 
 as well as advantageous it is, to go while 
 able to enjoy the benefit of exercise by tra- 
 velling in the open air, with almost a cer- 
 tainty of effecting a cure, than to delay till 
 the disease has got firm foothold, so as to 
 confine one to the house, and render the re- 
 covery doubtful, if not entirely hopeless. I 
 have heard so many express such deep re- 
 gret, that they had not availed themselves of 
 the remedy before it was too late, that I can- 
 not forbear to impress upon every invalid the 
 importance of fleeing from the severe climate 
 of the north, on the first appearance of dis- 
 ease, as he would from the most merciless
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 195 
 
 and deadly enemy. Instead of waiting till 
 December, as I did, go in September, and 
 thus avoid the fall months, which are as bad, 
 if not worse, than winter ; and, instead of re- 
 turning in April, as I was compelled to do, 
 by previous arrangements, make arrange- 
 ments before leaving, not to return till the 
 first of June. In a climate where the tem- 
 perature is subject to changes of forty degrees 
 a day, the summer months are quite bad 
 enough for invalids fall, winter, and spring, 
 extremely dangerous, if not deadly. Many 
 suppose the heat will be too great to remain 
 late in the West Indies ; but this is a mistake, 
 for they are not subject to as great heat 
 during the summer as our northern States, 
 and there is generally but about ten degrees 
 difference between summer and winter. In 
 cases of any considerable long standing, the 
 best course would be to remain eighteen 
 months, at least, before returning, instead of 
 rushing into the cold spring winds of the 
 north just as the work of recovery is fairly 
 commenced. Many have gone from the 
 West Indies apparently well, and died imme- 
 diately on their return. In many cases a 
 warm climate furnishes a perfect remedy as
 
 196 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 long as it is continued, but will never restore 
 the patient so as to enable him to be com- 
 fortable at the north. Whenever this is 
 found to be the case, however severe it may 
 seem, it is far better to abandon home and 
 remove to a more hospitable climate at once. 
 I know the sacrifice is great, but ought not 
 to weigh against the loss of health, happi- 
 ness, and life itself. Many, after getting 
 reconciled to the idea of leaving their own 
 country, will find the sacrifice often not so 
 great as was anticipated. Many places in 
 the West Indies offer ample rewards to the 
 enterprising and economical investment of 
 capital, afford all the means of an agree- 
 able, or even luxurious mode of living, and a 
 frequency of communication with the United 
 States almost equal to that afforded by our 
 mails between distant places in our own 
 country. Many may still adhere to the 
 opinion that some place in our southern 
 States or Territories may answer the purpose ; 
 but after having tried it, if not before, they 
 will learn the mistake. Key West, though 
 far superior in point of climate to any other 
 place at home, is too cold in winter ; and, of 
 course, places four or five hundred miles fur-
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 197 
 
 ther north must be subject to the same objec- 
 tion in a greater degree ; besides the general 
 unhealthiness of almost every place that 
 could be resorted to with any prospect of 
 engaging in trade, agriculture, or other lu- 
 crative pursuit. I have sought in vain to 
 find a single position free from these objec- 
 tions, and, if driven finally from the north, 
 shall give the island of Cuba the preference 
 to all other places. 
 
 Not being a physician, it is impossible for 
 me to specify with accuracy the particular 
 diseases or states of disease which would be 
 most benefitted by one or other of the climates 
 above mentioned. Upon this point every one 
 must consult his own physician, who, with a 
 proper knowledge of the facts, will be able to 
 give the proper advice, not only as to the best 
 place of resort, but also as to the course to be 
 pursued by the invalid on the way, and after 
 his arrival. No one should neglect this prepa- 
 ration. Clarke on Climate and Diseases may 
 be read with advantage upon this subject. 
 He considered the selection of a climate, and 
 a careful attention to the diet and exercise of 
 each particular patient, matters of the first 
 importance. The advice of a good physician,
 
 A WINTER IN THE 
 
 therefore, should never be neglected. In se- 
 vere cases it is quite as important in regard 
 to the preparation for the voyage or journey 
 as in relation to the treatment, diet, and exer- 
 cise on arrival at the place of destination. 
 
 Persons in delicate health, though not 
 seriously threatened with disease, and all 
 others sensitive to the effects of cold, instead 
 of confining themselves within doors, and 
 hovering around fires for six months in the 
 year, will find themselves amply rewarded 
 for a voyage to the West Indies, in the in- 
 creased enjoyment of life, independent of 
 any permanent improvement of health. 
 Although the general tenor of my observa- 
 tions in the course of the preceding work is 
 more particularly applicable to invalids and 
 the effects of the different climates above de- 
 scribed in cases of disease, it has been my 
 constant endeavour to intersperse the work 
 with such matters as would excite the atten- 
 tion and interest of the general reader. Those 
 who never expect to visit the places above 
 described, it is humbly hoped, will derive suf- 
 ficient information to compensate for the pe- 
 rusal of a small volume ; and invalids and 
 others expecting to visit the West Indies will
 
 WEST INDIES AND FLORIDA. 199 
 
 probably duly appreciate the humble endea- 
 vour of the author to obviate the defect of 
 information upon a subject so important to 
 their interests. That the work has been 
 hastily written, is undeniable : of its imper- 
 fections the author is fully aware ; but, that 
 the description of every place is, in all re- 
 spects, accurate, impartial, arid fair, is most 
 confidently asserted. All contrary accounts 
 must have resulted from want of information, 
 interest, or prejudice. The little time de- 
 voted to the work, the inexperience of the 
 author in the art, trade, and mystery of book- 
 making, and a pressure of delayed profes- 
 sional business, foreign to the subject matter 
 in question, have conspired to prevent a pro- 
 per pruning of the language, and to render 
 the work obnoxious to critical strictures. In 
 conclusion, I can only ask the indulgent 
 consideration of the reader, and tender my 
 sincere thanks for a patient perusal. 
 
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