LIBRARY THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA SANTA BARBARA FROM THE LIBRARY OF F. VON BOSCHAN fln^>vx^ 1 CARLSBAD AND ITS ENVIRONS JOHN JN(1ERRYLEES AUTHOR OF ' THE ENGLISHMAN'S GUIDE TO THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA, "PATERSON'S UNITED KINGDOM," "SWITZERLAND," ETC. 21 jflfee&fcal {treatise on tbe Tnse of tbe Idaters BY B. LONDON, M.D. RESIDENT PHYSICIAN AT CARLSBAD JFiourtcm Illustrations, anti ^lan of Carlsbai an& CHnbtrons LONDON SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET, E.G. 1886 [ All rights reserved} gaflantpne -press BAI.I.ANTYNE, HANSON AND CO. KUINBURtiH AND LONDON UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA: SAIsTA BARBARA PREFACE. IN" the preparation of this handbook it has been the aim of the Author to supply English- speaking visitors to Carlsbad with such prac- tical information as may contribute to the comfort and enjoyment of their sojourn at this beautiful watering- place. Although exhaustive treatises, principally medi- cal, have been written on Carlsbad in other languages, the English contributions to its literature have so far been exceedingly meagre, and have only been obtainable in Carlsbad itself. The present work, therefore, has been undertaken in response to the frequently ex- pressed need of a handbook which intending English and American visitors can consult prior to undertaking the journey, and which it is hoped will prove of prac- tical use during the period of their stay. We have pleasure in taking this opportunity to tender our grateful acknowledgments to the Burgo- meister of Carlsbad, and his courteous secretary, for IV PREFACE. valuable information received from them during the Author's visit to Carlsbad. We have also to acknow- ledge our indebtedness to the comprehensive German works on Carlsbad by Dr. Hlawacek, Dr. Rudolf Mannl, Herr Vincenz Prokl, and an excellent 'brochure in French by Dr. W. Pichler, as well as to the admirable articles on Carlsbad, written to the Times by its well- known correspondent, Fraser Rae, Esq. Annexed to the descriptive portion of the work is a medical treatise by Dr. London, resident physician at Carlsbad, which embraces the nature and rules of the treatment, and a synopsis of the various diseases which can be relieved or cured by the use of the Carlsbad waters. Coming from so well-known an authority, this treatise will doubtless be of interest, not only to patients, but also to the medical profession. CONTENTS. CARLSBAD AND ITS ENVIRONS. NO. PAGE I. INTRODUCTION . .11 Routes to Carlsbad .' . . . . . . 19 II. SITUATION AND CLIMATE 25 III. HISTORY AND REMINISCENCES OF CARLSBAD ... 28 IV. LIFE AT CARLSBAD . . . . . . .48 V. ARRIVAL, HOTELS, LODGINGS, CAFES, AND BEST SHOPS 53 VI. CONCERTS, THEATRES, AND AMUSEMENTS 59 VII. TOWN REGULATIONS 62 Cure and Music Tax . . . . . .62 Regulations Respecting Lodgings . ' . .64 Bath Regulations 68 Public Carriages . . . . . . .72 Donkeys and Donkey Carriages .... 76 Omnibuses ........ 78 Post and Telegraph Regulations .... 80 Dienstmann-Institute 81 VIII. DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN AND PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS . 83 IX. THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD .' .' .' ... . 93 Sprudel . . . . . ' . . . -97 Hygiensquelle 99 Marktbrunn . ' . " . ' . ' . ' . . . 99 Kaiser Karlsquelle . . . . . . . 100 VI CONTENTS. NO. PAGE Schlossbrunn 100 Russische Kronequelle . . . . . . 101 Miihlbrunn 101 Neubrunn ......... 101 Bernhardsbrunnen 102 Elisabethquelle 103 Felsenquelle . . . . . . . .104 Curhausquelle 105 Kaiserbruimen . . . . . . . .106 Eisenquelle 107 Sauerbrunn 1 08 X. WALKS TO THE Alte Wiese, Kiesweg, Posthof, and Kaiser Park . .109 Ecce Homo Kapelle, Franz Josef's HShe, and Find- la ter's Temple. . . . . . . .114 Findlater's Pyramid and Freundschafts-Hohe . 115 Hirschensprung 116 Belvidere and Aberg . . . . . . .118 Weisses Kreuz and Shiitzen Park . . . .120 Panorama, Waldschloss, and Drei Kreuzberg . . 121 Wiener Sitz, Sauerbrunn, and Schweizerhof . .122 Schonbrunn . . ... . . . .123 Veitsberg . . . . ' . . . . . 123 Rothe-Sauerling 124 Dallwitz 125 XI. DRIVES BOUND CARLSBAD Hammer, Aich, and Hans Heiling-Fels . . .126 Engelhaus 130 Elbogen 137 Giesshiibl-Puchstein 140 Petschau 144 Schlaggenwald 145 Schlackenwerth and Hauenstein ..... 145 Falkenau 148 Joachimsthal and the Sonnenwirbel . . . .148 CONTENTS. vii No. PAOE Kupferberg .150 Fischern, Altrohlau, and Neudeck . . . .151 XII. LONGER EXCURSIONS Eger and Marienbad 152 Frauzensbad . . . . . . . .157 Teplitz 159 XIII. SHOOTING AND FISHING 163 XIV. THE EXPORTATION AND PRODUCTS OF THE CARLSBAD WATERS 165 MEDICAL TREATISE. I. ACTION OF THE CARLSBAD WATERS 173 II. USE OF THE WATERS 177 III. EXTERNAL USE OF THE WATERS 179 IV. DIETETICS DURING THE USE OF THE WATERS . . .182 V. GENERAL INDICATIONS FOE THE USE OF THE WATERS . 187 1. Dyspepsia ........ 188 2. Gastralgia . 189 3. Dilatation of the Stomach . . . . 1 89 4. Chronic Catarrh of the Bowels, Chronic Diarrhoea, Chronic Constipation 190 5. Colic 190 6. Diseases of the Liver and Biliary Ducts . . .190 7. Gallstones and Hepatic Colics . . . .191 8. Gravel and Small Calculi of the Kidneys and Bladder 192 9. Gout and Chronic Rheumatism . . . .193 10. Bright's Disease 194 11. Diabetes 195 12. Haemorrhoids . . . . . . . .196 13. Obesity 196 14. Prosopalgia and Migraine 196 15. Diseases of the Sexual System . . . .196 VI. PERIOD AT WHICH THE EFFECT OF THE WATERS MANIFESTS ITSELF 198 ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE VIEW OP CARLSBAD ...... Facing title STADTPARK 49 GARTENZEILE . . 83 PARKSTRASSE ..'.' 85 CURHAUS 89 NEUBAD 93 SPRUDEL COLONNADE . . . .. . . -97 MARKTBRUNN 99 MUHLBRUNN COLONNADE 103 HANS HEILING-FELS 127 ENGELHACS . 131 ELBOGEN 137 GlESSHUBL-PCOHSTEIN 14! CASTLE OF HAUENSTEIN 145 PLAN OP CARLSBAD AND ENVIRONS . in packet at end of volume. Ipart L CARLSBAD AND ITS ENVIRONS. I. INTRODUCTION. Carlsbad season is from the 1st of May to the ist of September, the most crowded time being from the middle of June till the end of July. The spring at Carlsbad is generally early, and by May the foliage is well advanced, but the weather is apt to be somewhat changeable. Nevertheless the bright sunshine and soft invigorating breezes, so wel- come to the invalid after the winter is past ; the wild- flowers which grow in the woods and on the hillsides around Carlsbad in such endless variety ; the cheerful notes of the feathered songsters as they herald the approaching summer, when their voices will be hushed in the drowsy noon-tide heat ; and the first fresh green and the blossoms of the orchards, amply compensate for the few wet days and cloudy skies. The summers at Carlsbad are generally very warm, but as the life is entirely out of doors, and the walks and resting-places delightfully shaded, the discomforts of the heat are reduced to a minimum, while, to those who are unable to take active exercise, the warm summer days, 1 2 INTRODUCTION. in which they can remain in the open air without risk of being chilled, are very welcome. But perhaps the pleasantest time of the year at Carlsbad is September and October, when there is little rain, and the air is clear, dry, and bracing, and the tints of the foliage almost rival the brilliant autumn colouring of American woods. The disadvantage, however, of remaining after the 1 5th September is that the open-air concerts are over and most of the cafe's close, although a still con- siderable number of visitors remain till November. In spite of what several works on Carlsbad, written by Carlsbad physicians and others, say about its advan- tages as a winter i*esidence, it has no attractions what- ever at this season for visitors either sick or well ; the hotels are almost all closed ; the sole distraction is an occasional concert at the Curhaus ; and the ground being generally covered with snow for several months, some- times to a considerable depth, walking is difficult and unpleasant. Americans who intend visiting Carlsbad should try and arrange their journey so as to sail from the United States in April, which will secure them time to travel in Europe, after the course of the cure, at the most agreeable season. With the large, fast, and magnifi- cently appointed steamers now crossing the Atlantic, the voyage is no longer to be dreaded, and indeed is exceedingly beneficial to many patients, especially to those suffering from disorders of the liver and stomach, or from lung complaints. The enforced relaxation from INTRODUCTION. I 3 daily business anxieties during the voyage is also of great value to business men, in affording them an opportunity of banishing from their minds the cares they have left behind them. The present travel across the Atlantic has reached such large proportions that, in spite of the number of steamers sailing weekly, the best state-rooms are gene- rally engaged months ahead ; American travellers are therefore strongly advised not to leave engaging their rooms till near the time of sailing. The seasons the steamers are most crowded are, from America, during the spring and early summer months, and from England, during the late summer and autumn months. If the intending traveller be not a good sailor, he should secure a berth as nearly amidships as possible, prefer- ring the bow to the stern. This is a matter of the utmost importance, as the most trying hour on board ship is when dressing in the morning, and it will often depend on the situation of the state-room whether the passenger comes through it safely or not. In rough weather the difference between the motion at the bow or stern, and amidships is very marked indeed. As so much of the comfort at sea, therefore, depends upon having a well-situated state-room, it is advisable, if possible, to go over the ship and see the position of the state-room before engaging it. Nervous invalids should not take their state-rooms near the pantry, as the clatter of the dishes is very disturbing ; they should also, if possible, avoid the proximity of the 1 4 INTRODUCTION. cinder- shoot from the engine-room. Invalids should also choose the sunny side of the ship. Useful Hints for the Passage. Travellers are recom- mended to get a steamer trunk or bag that will fit under the berth, to contain the articles required on the passage ; the space between the floor and bottom of lower berth is generally about 15 inches. We also strongly recommend getting a " steamer chair," which will be found most useful on the voyage, especially if the weather be at all fine ; a good supply of rugs and shawls should also be taken. All the steamers have bath-rooms, and those who desire their morning " tub " should, as soon as coming on board, register their name and the time at which they would like to take their bath with the barber or bath-room steward (whoever has charge of the baths), as the demand for the baths generally exceeds the supply. Travellers making the passage across the Atlantic who are liable to sea-sick- ness will do well not to put their trust in any of the so-called remedies for sea-sickness. Some of these may alleviate the trouble on a short passage, but no remedy, except that of becoming accustomed to the motion of the vessel, will cure sea-sickness on an Atlantic voyage, and the best thing the unfortunate sufferer can do is to brace up as well as he can, be as much as possible on deck, and live plainly ; and, from long experience, we can assure timid travellers that it is very rarely mal-de- mer lasts more than the first day or two. The purser allots the places at table. The usual fees on board the INTRODUCTION. 1 5 Atlantic steamers are ics. each to the table and bed- room stewards, and 2s. 6d. to the " boots ; " or in the case of ladies, IOS. to the stewardess who attends to the ladies' state-rooms. A collection is also made among the frequenters of the smoking-room for the smoking- room steward. The meals on board are usually : Breakfast be- tween 8.30 and 10 A.M. ; lunch, I P.M. ; dinner, 6 P.M. Invalids going to Carlsbad can save the fatiguing part of the journey from Liverpool to Germany, and the discomforts of crossing the Channel, by taking one of the fine new steamers " Elbe," " Werra," " Fulda," " Ems," or " Eider," of the North German Lloyd, to Bremen. The appointments of these steamers are fully equal to any of the Liverpool lines, while the cuisine is superior. General Hints. We cannot do better than preface these remarks with the excellent advice of Dr. E. Gut- mann, the well-known authority on European spas, " that patients in the last stage of consumption or Bright's disease, or other chronic affections, should not be allowed to undergo the hardships and the excitement of a trip to a watering-place, thereby sacrificing the little amount of strength they still possess for the imaginary hope of an impossible cure. It is the sacred duty of the physician to dissuade them from the journey, though very often the contrary takes place. Every bath physician during the bath season has the opportunity 1 6 INTRODUCTION. of examining quite a number of incurable invalids, who have been sent to the spa by unscrupulous medical advisers, never again to return to their homes. Far away from their families, surrounded by strangers, more helpless and suffering than ever before, they vainly long for the tender care of their relatives during the last days of their earthly pilgrimage." It should not be forgotten that the waters of Carls- bad are powerful remedies, and no invalid should go there without having first consulted his own physician and obtained from him a certificate stating the history and nature of his disease, which he should hand to the physician at Carlsbad under whose care he intends placing himself. This will save the bath physician much time and trouble, and enable him to prescribe the treatment at Carlsbad with greater certainty. The usual stay is four weeks ; but it is quite impossible even for an experienced physician to accurately de- termine beforehand how long it will be necessary for a patient to take the waters, and indeed it is often the case that a patient must return for two or three consecutive years before a radical cure can be effected. Having chosen his route, the invalid should proceed by short and easy stages, and should by all means avoid travelling at night, which on the Continent, with the exception of the few lines which run wagons-lits, is most uncomfortable. For the convenience of travellers we append to the routes to Carlsbad a list of the most INTRODUCTION. I / interesting places on the way, with the principal sights and best hotel at each. On all Continental lines the amount of the fare is stamped on the tickets. The fare should be tendered in the coin of the country, and not in English bank notes or gold, as the rate of exchange at the railway stations will sometimes be found anything but satisfac- tory. The change should always be counted. The second class carriages in Germany and Austria are comfortable, and are used by a most respectable class of travellers, and, except for invalids whb may wish to have as few fellow-travellers as possible, the small extra comfort of the first class is hardly worth the additional cost. In France, however, the second class carriages generally speaking are uncomfortable, and certainly quite unsuited for ladies or invalids. In tra- velling from Paris, or any other place in France, to any place in Germany and Austria by the express trains, the traveller can purchase a mixed ticket entitling him to travel first class to the frontier, and thence to his destination in the second class. As the trains in the Continent seldom wait long enough at the stations to give time for a meal, a lun- cheon basket should always be taken. "When circular or through tickets are taken the ticket must be stamped at the ticket office, both on arrival and departure, when the journey is broken at any intermediate station. Travellers should always be careful to see that the 1 8 INTRODUCTION. conductor when collecting the ticket tears out the proper coupon. In Germany and Austria smoking is permitted in all carriages except those marked 'Nicht Raucher,' and in compartments reserved for ladies. In France com- partments are set apart for travellers who wish to smoke (marked ' Fumeurs') ; and no smoking is allowed in any other except with the consent of the occupants. The guard will always interfere to prevent smoking in the non-smoking compartments if he is requested to do so. Lavatories and other conveniences, ' cabinets am- bulants,' are attached to most of the express trains. With regard to luggage, on the ocean steamers no limit is made, and whatever may be the printed rules ot the steamship companies on the subject, practically, the traveller is permitted to carry all the personal luggage he may desire. In France and Belgium 56 Ibs. of lug- gage per passenger is carried free, but on the Rhine railways, and on most of the German lines, a charge is made for all luggage except such as is taken in the carriage. The charge for extra luggage on the Con- tinent is very high, and if the visitor to Carlsbad intends taking a quantity of luggage with him, con- siderable expense may be saved by sending it on by goods trains through some express company. Baggage forwarded in this way, however, should be sent on at least a week in advance. English bank notes and gold can be exchanged every- where on the Continent. The rate of exchange is INTRODUCTION. 1 9 generally 25 francs, 2O marks, or 12 Austrian florins to the pound, but a little more than this can be ob- tained at respectable banks or exchange offices. Eng- lish silver is of no use except at a very low exchange. As the weather of Carlsbad is liable to sudden changes, visitors should be provided with both warm and light clothing. It is not necessary for invalids to encumber their luggage with a number of " invalid comforts," such as English tea, biscuits, &c., as they can be obtained at Carlsbad. Smokers, however, who are particular, should take their cigars, cigarettes, and tobacco, although they will find when they have paid the duty they will have become somewhat expensive. ROUTES TO CARLSBAD. The two main routes from London to Carlsbad are (i.) Via Brussels, Cologne, Mayence, Aschaffenburg, and Eger. Between Aschaffenburg and Eger some of the trains run via Nuremberg, and others via, Bamberg and Oberkotzau. Travellers intending to go through without stopping will find this the quickest and most direct route. (2.) Via Paris, Strassburg, Carlsruhe, Stuttgart, Nuremberg, and Eger. The length of the journey, of course, depends upon the length of the stoppages made by the way, but the time consumed in actual travelling is about one and a half days via Calais or Ostend. 2O INTRODUCTION. The best train from London via Calais and Ostend is the 8 P.M., as it gives an opportunity of travelling up the Rhine by daylight. If the journey to Brussels is taken by the London, Chatham, and Dover service, via Queenborough and Flushing, or by the Great Eastern service, via Harwich and Rotterdam or Antwerp, the time is about four to six hours longer. The steamers on both these services are large, swift, and exceedingly comfortable, and the fares about twenty shillings cheaper. The night express trains from Calais, Ostend, Flush- ing, Rotterdam, and Antwerp to Cologne have sleeping carriages. Travellers from Paris can take the Orient Express, leaving in the evening, as far as Stuttgart, where it arrives about nine o'clock the next morning. This train, which is exceedingly comfortable, is com- posed entirely of sleeping, dining, and drawing-room carriages. The fares are about 25 per cent, more than by the ordinary expresses, but to those who can afford it, the additional comfort is well worth the extra charge. Carlsbad can also be reached from Paris by Strass- burg, Appenweier, Heidelberg, and Aschaffenburg (see above). Also by Pagny- stir-Moselle, Forbach, Binger- bruck, Mayence, and Aschaffenburg (see above). These routes take from four to six hours longer than the route via Stuttgart. (3.) An exceedingly pleasant and interesting route to Carlsbad, though somewhat longer and more expensive INTRODUCTION. 21 than the above routes, is from Paris to Bale, thence to Zurich and Rorschach, across the Lake of Constance by steamer to Lindau, thence to Munich, Pilsen, and Carlsbad. Note. Through tickets are only issued from London by Route I. FARES. Routes from London. Single Tickets. Return Tickets, avail- able for 30 days. ist Cl. 2nd Cl. ist Cl. and Cl. s. d. s. d. > d. . d. Harwich, Rotterdam, Col- \ ogne, Mayence, Wurz- V burg, Nuremburg, Eger J S 16 3 437 10 14 9 7 14 8 Queen boro', Flushing, Col- *| ogne, Mayence, &c., as > 627 490 10 18 o 7 18 6 Harwich, Antwerp, Brus-} sels, Cologne, Mayence, > 5 17 o 4 3 o 10 10 6 7 10 o &c., as above . . . . J Dover, Calais (or Ostend), ) Brussels, &c., as above . J 6 17 o 500 n 17 6 8 IS 3 The fares via Paris are about 7, los. first class, and ^"5, 53. second class. PRINCIPAL PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ABOVE ROUTES. ROUTE I. Brussels. Hotel Mengelle. Sights : Cathedral of St. Guduld, Hotel de Ville, King's Palace, Museums, Zoo- logical Gardens, Wiertz Museum, Gallery of the Duke 2 2 INTRODUCTION. of Arenberg, the New Palais de Justice, and the Bois de Cambre. Aix-la-Chapelle. Hotel Grand Monarque. Sights : Cathedral, Eathaus, Elisenbrunnen, Kurhaus, Suer- mondt Museum, and Lousberg. Cologne. Hotel du Nord. Sights : Cathedral, Wall- raf-Kichartz Museum, Episcopal Museum, Eathaus, Giirzenich, Churches of St. Gereon, St. Maria-im- Capitol, and St. Ursula, Monument of Frederick William III., Flora and Zoological Gardens. Collenz. Hotel du Ge"ant. Sights : Fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, Ehine Promenade, Church of St. Castor, The Castor Brunnen, The Burg, Kaufhaus, Moselle Bridge, Imperial Palace, The Petersberg. Mayence. Hotel de Hollande. Sights : Cathedral, Gutenberg Monument, The Citadel and Eigelstein, Museum in the Palace, New Promenade on the Ehine. Frankfort. Hotel Schwan. Sights : The Kaisersaal in the Eomer, Cathedral, Ariadneum, Picture Galleries of the Sta'del Institute, Kunst Verein, and Kunstge- werbe-Verein, Historical Museum, Jenkenberg Natural History Museum, New Opera, Zoological Garden, Palm Garden. Wurzberg. Hotel Kronprinz. Sights : Cathedral, Neue Minister, Eoyal Palace, Marien Kapelle, Citadel. Nuremberg. Hotel de Baviere. Sights : Church of St. Lawrence, Frauen Kirche, Eathaus, Church of St. Sebaldus, Schone Brunnen, Germanic Museum, The Burg. INTRODUCTION. 2 3 ROUTE II. Strasburg. Hotel de la Ville de Paris. Sights: Cathedral, Church of St. Thomas, Statue of Gutenberg, The Broglie. Stuttgart. Hotel Marquardt. Sights : Konigs Bau, New Palace, Old Palace, Stifts Kirche, Natural His- tory Museum, Museum of Art, Stadt Garten, and Anlagen. EOUTE III. Bdle. Hotel Trois Hois. Sights : Cathedral, Cathe- dral Museum, Rathaus, Town Museum, Zoological Garden. Zurich. Hotel Bauer au Lac. Sights : Stadt Gar- ten, Stadthaus, Grossmunster, St. Peter's Church, Wasser Kirche, The Tonhalle, Hohe Promenade, Town Museum, Kunster Giitli Museum, The Arsenal, Botanic Garden, Excursion to the Uetliberg. Munich. Hotel Four Seasons. Sights: Royal Palace, Alte Pinakothek, Glyptothek, Neue Pinakothek, National Museum, The Basilica, Count Schack's Pic- ture Gallery, The Propylaea, Monument of Maximilian II., Mariahilf Kirche, Royal Library, Hof Garten, Aquarium, Hall of Fame and Statue of Bavaria, English Garden. INTRODUCTION. TABLE OF MONEY, WEIGHTS, AND MEASURES. American. English. French, Swiss, or Italian. German. Austrian. Dots, centi. i. d. Frs. centmt. Marks. Pf. Florins. Kr. O I O O oi o 5 o 4 2 4\ P 5 OO2| o 25 o 20 o 10 h O IO 005 o 50 o 40 o 25! ! % o 20 009| I O o 80 o 5* >E o 25 O I O I 25 I O o 60 3 o 50 O 2 O 2 50 2 O i 20 1 S- I O 040 5 o 4 o 2 40 / * 4 86 I O O 25 20 20 30 12 55 actual (The Austrian gulden or florin equals is. &d. English money.) WEIGHTS (APPROXIMATE). i Gramme = ^ g oz. i Hectogramme = 3^ oz. i Kilogramme = 2! Ibs. 51 Kilogrammes = i cwt. 1015 Kilogrammes = i ton. LINEAR MEASURES. i Centimetre = f inch, i Metre = 3 ft. 3^ inches, i Kilometre = f mile. 8 Kilometres 5 miles. LAND MEASURES. i Centiare = ij sq. yd. i Are = | acre. i Hectare = z\ acres. FLUID MEASURES. i Litre = if pints. \\ Litres = i gallon, i Hectolitre = 22 gallons. THERMOMETER. Far. Cent. V Reau- mur. Far.' Cent. Reau- mur. Far. Cent. Reau- mur. Far. Cent. Reau- mur. 104 40 32 77 25 24 sf 13 10 37 3 2 98 37 29 76 24 19 I 50 IO 8 35 I-2S i 95 35 28 68 20 16 ! 41 5 4 33 I 0-8 86 3 24 59 15 12 I 39 4 3 32 O O'O II. SITUATION AND CLIMATE. jARLSBAD, one of the most attractive and beautiful of European watering-places, is situ- ated in the north-west of Bohemia, in lat. 50 and long. 13. The town lies in the narrow and winding valley of the Tepel, near its junction with the Eger, 1 1 24 feet above the level of the sea. On either side of the valley rise picturesque and rugged hills of volcanic formation, the highest of which, called the Ewige Leben, or ' Eternal Life,' is 2003 feet above the sea-level, or 879 feet above the town. These hills are covered with woods of pine, spruce, beech, elm, birch, and oak ; spruce and pine predominating. Numberless paths intersect the wocds in all directions, affording shady and picturesque walks, and on the level portion of the valley, and over some of the gentler slopes, are well-kept carriage roads. The composition of these hills is of three varieties of granite : gneiss, quartz, and argillaceous schist, the rocks being intersected with the usual fissures accompanying this formation. On some of the hills are strata and out-croppings of basalt, and extensive veins of hornstone. 26 CLIMATE. A humorist has said that Carlsbad " is built on the lid of a boiling kettle," which is almost literally true, as it stands on a crust of comparative thinness, through which rise no less than nineteen springs of various temperatures. Borings which have been made in the crust have reached a vast and seething subterranean cauldron below, of immeasurable depth. This crust, on which the Marktplatz, the Kreuzgasse, and the Muhlbrunn Colonnade are built, is mostly composed of Sprudelstein, or Sprudelschelle (Sprudel-stone or Sprudel-shell), a hard stone, capable of taking a fine polish. The Sprudelstein is supposed to have been formed by the mineral constituents of the springs being gradually deposited as they came into contact with the open air (see page 95). THE CLIMATE of Carlsbad, like that of all mountainous districts, is rather changeable, but the air is remarkably pure and invigorating, the town never having been visited by any contagious diseases or epidemics. It entirely escaped the Pest of the Middle Ages, and during the Austro-German war, when cholera, brought by the sick and wounded soldiers, was raging in the surround- ing districts, not a single case occurred at Carlsbad. There is no stagnant water in the neighbourhood, and consequently malaria is unknown. In summer, even when the days are very warm, the nights and early morn- ings are generally cool and invigorating. - Owing to the character of its soil, which permits of moisture being rapidly absorbed, the roads and paths around Carlsbad CLIMATE. 27 become perfectly dry, and are fit for walking in a few hours, after even heavy rain. The mean temperature of the year is 43 J Fahr. ; in summer, 66| Fahr. ; in spring and autumn, 47 Fahr. ; and in winter 27^ Fahr. The prevailing winds are from the west and north, the latter of which, having free access to the town, is gener- ally cool and bracing. III. HISTORY AND REMINISCENCES OF CARLSBAD. [ARLSBAD is one of the very few important European watering-places which does not appear to have been known to the Romans. The town was originally incorporated by King John of Luxemburg, who, by an ancient charter dated 1325, conferred on it certain rights and privileges, though there is no doubt from the name, Wary, or ' Warm,' that the hot springs were known long before this period. The discovery of the springs is traditionally attributed to the Emperor Charles IV., son of King John, who in the year 1358 was hunting in the neighbourhood while on a visit to the castle of Elbogen (see page 137). One of his dogs while following a wounded deer fell over a cliff, since called the ' Hirschensprung,' or Deer's Leap (see page 116), into one of the hot springs below. Attracted by its cries, the hunters came to the rescue of the animal, and on taking it out, found it severely wounded by its fall. Its subsequent recovery was so rapid, that the Emperor's physician attributed it to the healing power of the water, and he induced his royal HISTORY. 29 master, who was suffering from an old wound in his leg, received at the battle of Crecy, to test its efficacy. The Emperor's wound also rapidly healed, and in gratitude he founded a town at the springs and named it Carlsbad. As, however, the existence of the springs was known long before this time, the legend, as far as their first discovery is concerned, is purely mythical, though the incident itself may actually have occurred. But if the Emperor did not first discover Carlsbad, he gave it its present name, extended the charter granted by King John, and built a royal residence in the town. Of the early history of Carlsbad we have no certain data, as the archives of the town were almost entirely destroyed by fire in 1604. In the middle of the sixth century the Eger district was settled by a horde of Slavs, who came from the plains of Russia and Lithuania, and from whom the present Bohemian people are descended. These Slavs were pagans, and it was not until after Bohemia was united to the German Empire by Charle- magne in A.D. 800, that Christianity began to spread among them ; indeed, paganism did not finally disappear till the tenth century. In the ninth century the district of Eger came into possession of the powerful Margrave Vohburg, who built the castle of Elbogen in 870, and it seems impossible that the remarkable phenomena of the hot springs should have been unknown to those who lived so near them. A chronicle written about this time mentions the rivers Tepel and Eger, which in the ori- 30 HISTORY. ginal Slav language meant 'tepid' and ' re- warmed.' Another curious fact is that the walls of the castle of Neudeck, built at the commencement of the thirteenth century, and distant about nine miles from Carlsbad, are partly constructed of Sprudelstone. In 1 149 the whole of the Eger district, together with the towns of Falkenau, Elbogen, and Warmbad (or Wary), became the personal property of the German Emperor, Frederick Barbarossa, who received it as a dowry on his marriage with Adelheid, daughter of the Margrave Diebold von Vohburg. The nomenclature of the towns and villages which were founded before the commencement of the twelfth century is almost entirely Slavonic; the settlements founded after the district came into possession of the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa in 1149 having been generally given German names. We may, therefore, assume that the towns, and villages, and castles with Bohemian names were founded before, and those with German, founded after this date. In 1306 John of Luxemburg, the blind King who was killed at the battle of Crecy in 1 349, was elected King of Bohemia, and in 1317 he visited the castle of Elbogen (see page 137) with his consort and his infant son. In 1 325, by a charter which still exists, he enfiefed the town and granted it certain privileges, which he increased by a second charter dated 1337. In 1358 the Emperor Charles IV., son of King John, built a royal castle at Carlsbad, at which time the town consisted of HISTORY. 3 1 only forty houses, and in 1370 granted a new charter, conferring on the citizens rights of self-government and the free choice of magistrates. A transcript of this charter, in which Wary is first called Carlsbad, still exists. Charles died in 1378, and his son, Wencelaus I, confirmed all these privileges. At the end of the four- teenth or beginning of the fifteenth centuries the estate of Elbogen, with Carlsbad, was separated from the dis- trict of Eger, and came into possession of the Bohemian royal family ; how, is not exactly known, but the first step which led to this was doubtless the foreclosing of a mortgage of 7000 marks silver, which Wencelaus I. claimed had been lent by his father, Charles IV., to the heirs of Frederick Barbarossa. An eventful period in the history of Carlsbad com- mences with the mortgaging in 1434 of the Burgravate of Elbogen by the crown to the Chancellor Caspar Schlick for 11,900 florins. Schlick had constant feuds with a neighbouring magnate, Count Yon Eulenburg, who, in the prosecution of certain personal claims he had against the Chancellor, made frequent raids on Carlsbad and the Elbogen district, burning the houses and plundering the inhabitants. These outrages were returned in kind by Schlick and his followers, till they reached such a height that the German Parliament in 1444 passed a special Act for their suppression. In 1455 Heronimus Schlick, the nephew of Caspar, mort- gaged the castle of Carlsbad to Count Polaczky von Polaky for 500 florins, reserving to himself the protec- 32 HISTORY. torate of the town. A feud soon broke out between these nobles; the citizens of Elbogen siding with Schlick, and those of Carlsbad taking the part of Polaky. In one of their numerous fights Polaky took 2OO of the Elbogeners prisoners and brought them to the castle at Carlsbad, which was, however, shortly afterwards besieged and taken by Schlick, and the prisoners set at liberty. This feud was finally settled by arbitration, and three umpires were appointed by King Wladislaw, the decision being that Schlick had to pay to Polaky 600 florins to redeem his debt, and receive back his castle at Carlsbad. In 1462 civil war broke out in Bohemia owing to the issue of a Papal bull by Pope Pius forbidding the taking of the wine at the sacrament by laymen. King George of Bohemia, on his refusal to allow his subjects to obey the bull, was deposed -by the Pope, who offered the crown to King Matthias Corvinus of Hungary. The greater part of Bohemia rebelled and went over to King Matthias, but a still influential number of his subjects, among whom were the Burgrave Schlick and his vassals of Elbogen and Carlsbad, remained faithful for a time. Owing, however, to the rapidly increasing power of King Matthias and the persuasions of Papal emissaries, together with threats of excommunication from Rome, they finally deserted their sovereign, and sent him a letter renouncing their allegiance. After the restoration of peace on the death of George, the Burgrave Matthias Schlick HISTORY. 33 commenced to plunder and oppress the citizens of Elbogen and Carlsbad, and succeeded in making himself so unpopular that he lost all control over his followers. Schlick vainly appealed to King Matthias for assist- ance to quell the insurrection, and finding himself unable to cope with his rebellious vassals, he made over the Burgravate of Elbogen and Carlsbad in 1470 to the brothers, Elector Ernst and Duke Albrecht of Saxony, for the sum of 2 3 ,000 florins. The Elbogeners, however, relished as little the rule of their new masters as of their former ruler, and declined to take the oath of alle- giance. The brothers took up arms in 1471, and laid siege to the castle of Elbogen, which was surrendered by treachery, and numbers of its defenders were hung over the castle walls. After the subjugation of the Elbogeners peace was concluded, Schlick being per- mitted to remain actual lord in fief, while Duke Albrecht became lord protector. No sooner, however, was Schlick reinstated than he began a second time to harass and oppress the citizens of Elbogen and Carls- bad, and on their again showing signs of rebellion he arranged with Duke Albrecht to make another raid on Elbogen. This plan was executed on the night of the 1st October 1476; the town was taken and plundered, and frightful atrocities were committed by Schlick and his followers, in consequence of which many of the citizens emigrated. For the next fifty years the history of the town is simply one of petty feuds and personal quarrels. 34 HISTORY. In 1480 we have the first mention of a ' Cur-guest/ Fraulein Barbara Schenk von Frautenburg,.who came for the cure accompanied by her mother. In 1531 Albert Schlick, grandson of Matthias, founded in Carlsbad a hospital for indigent patients, which he dedicated to the Holy Spirit. He also obtained a charter from King Wladislaw giving him the right to exact from all visitors to Carlsbad, rich or poor, a donation for the hospital ; the amount being left to the guests themselves. This was the first ' Cur-tax ' imposed at Carlsbad. In 1533 Albert Schlick exchanged with his cousin, Hermonius, the Burgravate of Elbogen and Carlsbad for that of Winteritz. On the outbreak of the war between Bohemia and Saxony, Hermonius Schlick renounced his allegiance to his sovereign and joined the Saxon army. After the disastrous defeat of the Saxons at the battle of Muhlberg, 24th April 1547, Hermonius was outlawed, but on the conclusion of peace he managed to obtain a pardon from the Emperor Ferdinand I., his estates of Elbogen and Carlsbad, how- ever, being confiscated to the crown. The town of Carslbad was then incorporated and made a royal borough, and the citizens took the oath of allegiance to Ferdinand. There being now no resident Burgrave, the castle of Carlsbad for a long time remained unoccupied, and the citizens not wishing to see this historic building fall into decay, petitioned the Emperor HISTORY. 35 Maximilian to make it over to the town for the use of the fire-brigade. This request was granted by a deed dated 1567. The crown still retained possession of all the land and other property attached to the Burgravate of Carlsbad, and the citizens for many years tried in vain to acquire them. They, however, succeeded at last in purchasing them from the needy Emperor Rudolph in 1598 for the sum of 52,800 marks. By this purchase the town gained considerably, and also greatly extended its influence and status. When the Reformation began to spread in Bohemia at the commencement of the sixteenth century, the then reigning Burgrave, Sebastian Schlick, who was a friend of Luther, energetically devoted himself to furthering the cause of the new faith, and succeeded in establishing the Protestant religion throughout the whole Eger dis- trict. The first Reformed preacher, Wolfgang Rappold, was appointed in Elbogen in 1 523. A Lutheran pastor was doubtless appointed about the same time to Carlsbad, though the first reference made in existing records is to the preaching of Andreas Hampisch in the Andreas Church in 1554. After the death of the Emperor Rudolph in 1612, his successor, Ferdinand II., who was bitterly opposed to the Reformed faith, re-established the Catholic religion throughout Bohemia, and in 1624 the parish church of Carlsbad was again made over to the Romanists, in consequence of which the last Lutheran pastor, Johann Georg Kreizel, together with a large 36 HISTORY. number of the citizens, emigrated to Saxony and founded the town of Johanngeorgenstadt. On the Galgenburg, above the Chapel of St. Mary, is a large stone which commemorates this exodus. During the Thirty Years' War Carlsbad suffered severely, the town being repeatedly sacked, and many of the citizens killed. The fame of Carlsbad as a resort for crowned heads and personages of the highest rank dates from the visit of the Archduke Ferdinand in 1571, who was accompanied by his consort, Philippina Welser, the daughter of an Augsburg merchant, who won all hearts, even of the Archduke's royal relations, by her beauty and accomplishments. In 1630 Carlsbad was visited by Wallenstein, Duke of Friedland, who was afterwards barbarously mur- dered in the Castle of Eger (see page 153). In 1683 the Crown Prince of Saxony, afterwards George III., with the Duke of Lauenburg, came to Carlsbad for the cure, accompanied with a large retinue, and stayed six weeks. During their visit they gave great entertainments, at one of which, we are told, an ox stuffed with capons was roasted whole and served in the Fest Platz, now occupied by the garden of the Hotel Goldener Schild. All the inhabitants of the town were summoned to the banquet by a fanfare of trumpets and kettledrums stationed on the Hirschensprung. The Prince, dressed in a servant's livery of red and green, waited on the guests himself. The festivities wound HISTORY. 37 np with a ball, the music being supplied by an or- chestra of fiddles, pipes, and steinbok horns ! In 1691 Augustus I., King of Poland, accompanied by the famous beauty, Aurora, Countess von Kb'nig- stein, took the cure at Carlsbad. He was accompanied by so many soldiers that temporary barracks had to be erected for their accommodation in the fields. He entertained the visitors and townspeople with tourna- ments on the Alte Wiese, and on the Allee Platz he gave a grand entertainment in a ballroom he had erected, and decorated with Bohemian lustres and mirrors. We are told he provided a surprise for his guests by having the water from the Sprudel conducted in pipes to the ballroom, and while the ball was at its height he had the water turned on and gave the dancers a thorough drenching. At this time the Cur-guests at Carlsbad were such insatiate pleasure - seekers that, in addition to the almost nightly fetes, they had matinees dansantes every day from 1 1 A.M. to I P.M. The years 1711 and 1712 were memorable from the visits of Peter the Great, who came to be cured of rheumatism. We are told that the Czar on his arrival was ordered by his physician to take three glasses of the waters before breakfast, but by some misunderstanding he thought three large pitchers were meant. He managed to get down one, and was almost choking over the second, when the doctor, fortunately appearing, informed him of 38 HISTORY. his mistake. He must, besides this, have swallowed a considerable quantity of the waters during his stay, as he was in the habit of taking twenty-three glasses at a time. In a letter dated igth September, written to the Empress Catherine, he says : " We, thank God, are well, only our bellies are swelled up with water, because we drink like horses, and have nothing else to do." In the following year he writes again to his wife : " We began to drink the waters at this hole yesterday. How it works I will write, but don't look for any other news from this wilderness." The treatment may have bene- fited him in a bodily sense, but it certainly did not improve his violent temper. We are told that he took part in the annual shooting match at Carlsbad, and carried off the prize. One of the spectators, whose admiration had been excited by his fine shooting, began to vigorously applaud, when the Czar, thinking he was trying to distract his aim, fired at him, but fortunately missed him. On another occasion he assisted at the building of a house, laying the stones with his own hands. One of the masons, who was gazing at him in astonishment, was the victim of a similar outbreak of temper. One of the peculiarities of the Czar was an intense dislike of being watched while he was at work, and on seeing the mason looking at him he became so enraged that he threw a trowelful of mortar in his face. On finding his mistake, however, he made ample amends in both cases by apologising and presenting the men with handsome sums of money. There being no HISTORY. 39 Russian church at Carlsbad, the Czar went daily to offer up his prayers before the cross on the Hirschensprung, on the spot since named the Petershohe (see page 117). At the shooting match referred to, the Czar had given as the prize, a cask of wine, which had been sent him by the Emperor Charles VI., and on winning it himself he refused to take it back. Another contest was there- fore held, in which the Czar did not compete. The winner of the cask at the second contest had it bottled in small flasks which readily sold at a high price, and invested the proceeds for the benefit of the shooting society, to whom this fund still yields an income of thirty florins a year. The target which the Czar shot at is preserved in the Schiesshaus. It was at Carlsbad that Peter carried on the nego- tiations for the marriage of his son Alexis with the Princess Charlotte of Wolfenbiittel, whom the Prince first met at the Castle of Schlackenwerth. It was at first proposed that the marriage should take place secretly at Carlsbad, but it was eventually solem- nised at Dresden. The Czar left Carlsbad to attend the marriage, contrary to the advice of his physicians, which led to his experiencing a serious relapse. During his second visit to Carlsbad in 1712 Peter renewed his acquaintance with the celebrated philosopher Leibnitz, whose advice received at that time proved of such assistance to the Czar in introducing reforms into Russia. The Czar lived in the house 'Zum Rothen Herz,' on the Alte Wiese. 4O HISTORY. In the same year, 1712, the Empress Christina of Austria, with a large retinue, visited Carlsbad, accom- panied by her daughter, the Princess Maria Theresa, then four years of age. In honour of her visit the citizens had a beautiful drinking goblet made for her at the famous porcelain manufactory at Meissen. This goblet is now in the museum at Prague. In 1/32 Carlsbad was honoured with a visit from the Emperor Charles II. and his consort, the Empress Christina, who seem to have been accompanied by about half the nobility of Austria. The town records of that time relate that it required 6600 horses to convey their Majesties and their retinue to the place. The Emperor during his stay took a great interest in Carlsbad. He rebuilt the parish church, and gave largely to the charities and for improving the town. During the war of succession, which broke out after the ascent, of Maria Theresa to the throne of Austria in 1740, Carlsbad suffered severely, as well as Eger and Elbogen, these three towns being sacked by the French and the citizens laid under heavy contribution. In 1762 the first Cur-lists were published. These lists were in writing, the first printed lists not being published till 1794. In 1766 commenced what may be termed a new era in the history of Carlsbad, as in that year the celebrated physician, Dr. David Becher, made the first scientific analysis of the medical and chemical properties of the waters, and laid down regulations for their use which HISTORY. 41 were practically the same as those in force to-day, and which have proved so beneficial to hundreds of thousands of patients for the last century. From this time the number of visitors has steadily increased ; from 445 in 1785 to 28,600 in 1885. This rapid increase encouraged the municipal authorities to provide better accommoda- tion for visitors, and to take steps for making the town more attractive. Fine chestnut alleys were planted and walks were laid out along the Tepel and through the woods. In 1774 a new drinking and bathing hall was erected in place of the old Sprudel Hall. One of the most celebrated leaders of Carlsbad society at this period was Count Maurice von Briihl, the inti- mate friend of Admiral Orloff (see page 114). At one of the great open-air fetes he gave on the Plobensberg fresh flowers were fastened to the trees in the woods, which gave them the appearance of a forest in bloom. In 1784 the municipality erected the fine stone bridge over the Eger which now leads to the railway station. In 1794 the "Sprudel Book," in which all visitors entered their voluntary contributions, was abolished, and an act was passed ordering that every nobleman should pay a cur-tax of two florins, and every commoner one florin. In 1800 the walls which confine the course of the Tepel were built, and a row of wooden booths or shops erected along the 'Alte Wiese.' At this time Carlsbad benefited greatly from the visits of Lord Findlater, a Scotch nobleman, who, in gratitude for 42 HISTORY. the great benefit he derived from drinking the waters, gave large sums of money to the local charities and for laying out and beautifying the environs of the town. In 1785, when thirty-four years of age, Goethe paid his first visit to Carlsbad, where he afterwards spent many of the happiest and most fruitful years of his life. He altogether paid fourteen visits to Carlsbad, and there is little doubt but that the drinking of the waters greatly contributed to prolong his life and added greatly to his vigour of both mind and body. The houses in the Markt Platz in which he lived are marked by marble tablets. Goethe from his youth was afflicted with a painful malady which caused himself and his friends great anxiety. After much suffering he was at last persuaded to try the efficacy of the Carlsbad waters. Shortly after his first arrival in 1785 he wrote that he had already experienced great benefit, and that pleasant intercourse with the visitors had " rubbed off the rust" he had gathered in the retired life he had hitherto been obliged to lead. A touching incident is related of his visit in 1819. " The 28th August being ' his seventieth birthday, the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg provided a pleasant and most agreeable surprise for him by bringing the old clock which hung up in the house where he first saw the light and spent his youth at Frankfort, and having it hung up in his Carlsbad lodgings. When Goethe awoke early in the morning and heard the clock strike the hour, he called to his ser- vant, saying, ' I hear a clock strike that arouses all the HISTORY. 43 memories of my childhood. Is it a dream or a reality ? ' Then he got up, and learning the truth, was moved to tears." His last visit was in 1823. He was then seventy-four, but, susceptible as ever, he fell in love with a charming young lady, Fraulein von Levetzov. He proposed marriage, which she declined, although she never married afterwards, and when the bust of the poet was unveiled in 1883 she sent a wreath of flowers to be laid at its foot. During his visits Goethe wrote a number of odes on subjects connected with Carlsbad. The period embracing the close of the eighteenth and commencement of the nineteenth century was the " golden age " of Carlsbad. The royal and noble visitors vied with each other in the originality and costliness of their entertainments. Among the most celebrated files was the Chinese banquet given in 1786 by the Countess Ozinska, when the Alte Wiese was lighted with 1 500 coloured lanterns and lined with small pavilions deco- rated with mirrors. On the Pupp'sche Alle'e an immense Chinese pagoda was erected, in which the servants of the Countess, dressed in Chinese costume, served the feast. Another curious entertainment was given in 1797 by the Duke of Saxe-Gotha to the beautiful Duchess Dorothde of Curland (see page 122). In a meadow near the Franzens Briicke hay was being made, and the Duke had invited all the visitors to take a drive along the Eger. While the carriages were passing the field the Duke suggested that his guests should alight and join in the merriment of the haymakers, who 44 HISTORY. were dancing to the music of pipes and fiddles. His proposal was at once adopted, and after the dance was over their host led the guests to an immense hayrick which stood in the meadow, and from which sounds of music were apparently proceeding. On their approach it fell apart, and disclosed a sumptuous banquet spread on a long table, over one end of which a gallery filled with musicians had been erected. Besides these fites, there were, almost daily, balls, balloon ascents, chess tournaments, where the places of the chessmen were taken by children suitably attired, and concerts in which the most celebrated musicians in Europe took part. In 1791 the poet Schiller visited Carlsbad with his wife, to whom he had been married the year before. We gather from his letters written during his stay that the time he passed was the happiest period in his life. It was during this visit that Rheinhardt painted the cele- brated portrait of the poet. He lodged at the house ' Zum Weissen Schwan,' near the Johannisbriicke. In 1809 the town suffered severely in the French war, the number of guests being reduced from 1200 the year previous, to 112. In 1813 the visitors from Saxony and Poland and other states then at war with Saxony were ordered to leave the baths within three days. In 1819 the celebrated conference which was held to decide the settlement of Europe after the Napoleonic wars, and which lasted from 7th August to 2oth December, assembled at Carlsbad, in the Hotel Zum Weissen Lowen. Shortly after the battle of HISTOKY. 45 Waterloo Marshal Blucher paid a visit to Carlsbad, and was much feted by the Cur-guests. He is said to have remarked that " he had been an enemy to water all his life, but now the devil had sent him where he could get nothing else." In 1830 the new bath-houses were commenced, and other improvements in the town and environs were undertaken. In 1852 the present Cur-tax was estab- lished, and visitors were no longer received as formerly by a flourish of trumpets from the Stadtthurm. In 1858 the 5 3 ?5 I* ?> 4 jj *4 5 or more 1 7 2d Class. One person ... 3 A party of 2 persons . . 5 n 3 6 4 7 5 or more 8 3d Class. One person ... 2 A party of 2 persons . . 3 >> 3 >> 4 ?> 3? 4 5 ,, 5 or more 6 Children under fourteen and servants pay no music- tax. The " cure-tax " does not include admission to the reading and smoking rooms. Tickets for these rooms can be purchased at the office. Daily tickets, I 5 kr. ; weekly, 70 kr. ; monthly, 2 fl. The taxes are assessed by the Burgomaster, but any visitor objecting to his assessment can appeal against it within three days, by lodging a notice in writing at either the office of the Burgomaster, in the Town Hall, or at the office of the District Surveyor in the Municipal Buildings on the Neue Wiese. Shortly 64 TOWN REGULATIONS. after his arrival each visitor is supplied with a form of assessment to fill up, which is returned a few days afterwards for payment. A List of Regulations is issued annually by the Burgomaster and circulated among the visitors. REGULATIONS RESPECTING LODGINGS. 1. Any stranger arriving in Carlsbad is permitted to hire a lodging either for a fixed or for an indefinite period of time. With respect to rent, and all other arrangements entered into, written or verbal contracts are considered equally binding. To save disputes, however, it is better to have a contract in writing. (See Rule 1 3.) 2. If the lodging is hired for a fixed period, the contract made is considered in force during the whole of the time the rooms are occupied ; and when the period originally fixed on has expired, and the stay is prolonged, no further contract is necessary, unless an alteration in the terms be agreed on, in which case a new contract must be made. 3. The fact of the rent being paid weekly (as is usual) has no bearing upon the contract, i.e., a week's notice on either side is not sufficient when the apart- ments have been hired by the month. 4. During the continuance of a contract for a fixed period, the owner of the lodgings cannot increase the rent. 5. If the lodgings be rented for an indefinite TOWN REGULATIONS. 65 period, and no special contract have been made, it is assumed that the visitor has hired the apartments for the usual time of taking the waters, viz., four weeks ; but during this time the landlord cannot insist on any increase in the rent originally agreed on. In this case, if the hirer wishes to vacate the apartments at the end of the fourth week, or if the landlord wishes to let them to some other person, a week's notice be- forehand is necessary. Should this not be given, the contract runs on for an indefinite period, and can be put an end to at any time by either party giving a week's notice. 6. If apartments are expressly rented by the day, it is only necessary to give a notice of twenty-four hours on either side ; or, if by the week, a week's notice. 7. The week's notice is reckoned from the day on which the weekly payment becomes due. If notice be given during the course of the week, it is only regarded as having been given at the expiration of the week. 8 . If, in the case of a lodging which is hired either by the week or for an indefinite period, the lodger gives notice to leave at any time during the first day he takes possession, he cannot be required to pay more than the rent for the current week. 9. If the visitor who has hired his apartments either by the week or for an indefinite period desires to quit his lodgings suddenly, he has not only to pay the rent for the current week, but also the amount of an additional week's rent as compensation in lieu of E 66 TOWN REGULATIONS. notice ; but at the same time, lie cannot sublet the apartments for this unexpired period to any other person. In the case of lodgings being hired by the day, the compensation in lieu of notice is one day's rent. 10. All persons letting lodgings have a right to demand a deposit from the hirer, which, however, must not exceed the amount of one week's rent. The de- posit is forfeited if the hirer shall not take possession of the lodging during the course of the first week. This rule does not apply if the hirer furnishes the owner with sufficient security for his fulfilling the terms of his contract. Should such security not be furnished, the landlord has the right, at the termina- tion of the week, to cancel the contract and let the lodgings to any other person. 1 1 . In hotels and boarding-houses, visitors have the right to vacate their apartments at any time they please, and only to pay by the day. Should, however, a visitor hire apartments in a hotel or boarding-house for a fixed price, and for a period longer than one day (whether it be for a fixed or indefinite period), the above regulations applicable to lodging-houses come into force. 12. If the stipulations of the contract are not kept by the landlord that is, if the visitor shall not be provided with that which is contracted for, or what may be said to come under the head of necessities ; if it can be proved that the lodging is damp, dirty, or in any way injurious to health ; or if facts come to light which the hirer had no means of discovering at the TOWN KEGULATIONS. 6/ time of his entering into the contract, whereby he may be inconvenienced ; and provided such causes of com- plaint are not immediately removed by the landlord, the lodger shall have the right of vacating the apart- ments without notice ; but he must pay for the actual time he has occupied the apartments. 13. In such cases the onus of proof lies upon the lodger ; and also if any dispute arises as to whether the ^lodging was hired for a fixed or an indefinite period, the onus of proof lies with the person who raises the dispute. If no written contract has been made between the parties, and a dispute takes place regarding a verbal contract, the arrival-sheet, which contains a column stating the period for which the visitor proposes to stay, shall be taken as proof. In cases where this is not recorded in the arrival-sheet, the assertion of the visitor is taken as proof. 14. In the case of furnished lodgings, no compensa- tion can be claimed for injury or deterioration sustained by the furniture, linen, &c., by ordinary wear and tear, but compensation can be claimed where anything has been wilfully broken or damaged, and in cases of severe or prolonged illness, where any large amount of bed-linen is required, or when from this cause any articles have been rendered unfit for further use. 1 5 . Every visitor has the right to procure his meals, food, and necessaries, as well as to take his baths, where he pleases. He has also the right of having his own laundress. 68 TOWN REGULATIONS. 1 6. The rent does not usually include attendance, unless it has been expressly stipulated in the contract. Where no arrangement shall have been made for at- tendance, it shall be determined according to the tariff usual in the house. When attendance is charged in the usual monthly or weekly account, and shall have been thus paid to the landlord by the lodger, the ser- vants have no claim to separate gratuities. The term " attendance" is understood to mean usual domestic services, such as the cleaning and putting in order of the rooms, attending at meals, and other ser- vices usually rendered by domestics ; but ironing of linen, washing, mending, and cleaning of clothes and boots, or attending upon the sick are expressly ex- cluded. 17. All disputes arising between visitors and lodg- ing-house keepers must be laid before the Royal Dis- trict Assessor, at the Amtsgebaude, or district offices, Neue Wiese, who will use his best endeavours to arrange the matters in dispute satisfactorily ; but, failing this, he shall then direct the parties to apply to the law courts. When, however, both parties shall agree that the District Assessor shall be called upon to arbitrate the matter, his decision shall be final. BATH REGULATIONS. I . The public baths of the town are under the direct control of the municipality of Carlsbad, subject to the general supervision of the Government. TOWN REGULATIONS. 69 2. When baths are ordered, they will be allotted by the cashier according to priority of application. 3. The baths are open to the public from morning till evening. 4. Tickets for a bath, or for a series of baths, are issued in the establishment by the cashier or the bath attendants at the prices fixed by the tariff. Only tickets obtained in this way are available. The tickets must be paid for in advance. 5. The ticket is only available at the establishment where it is bought and for the hour arranged. 6. In case the patient cannot take the bath at the hour arranged for, at least two hours' notice must be given in advance, otherwise the price of the ticket will not be refunded. 7. The ticket must be delivered to the attendant on entering the bath-room. 8. Bathers must be punctual to the hours mentioned on the ticket, the time allowed being one hour for each bath. A bell is rung fifteen minutes before the expira- tion of the hour to give the bather warning to dress and vacate the bath-room. 9. Every bather has the right to request that his bath shall be prepared in his presence; and in order to assure himself that the temperature of the bath is exactly that desired, a thermometer is placed in each bath-room. 10. The bath attendants must obey strictly all orders 70 TOWN REGULATIONS. given for the preparation of the baths, and must treat bathers with proper civility. 11. The bath attendants are strictly enjoined to keep the bath-rooms clean and in order ; and bathers are also urgently requested not to damage or soil the bath- rooms in any way. 12. Smoking and the use of strong smelling liniments are strictly forbidden. 13. A bell will be found in each cabinet, which can be rung in case of necessity. 14. The bath inspectors and attendants are strictly forbidden to interfere with the comfort of the bathers. 15. Any disorder in the bath-rooms, negligence, or incivility on the part of the bath attendants, or other cause of complaint, must be written in the complaint book, which will be found in the waiting-room, and which duly comes under the notice of the municipality. 1 6 It is strictly forbidden to bring dogs into the Cur- haus or bath-rooms. 17 The use of the common baths is given free to the poor, who, however, must produce a legal certificate of their inability to pay. BATH TARIFF. fl. kr. One mineral salon bath in the Curhaus, morning or evening, with service . I 50 One mineral bath in the Curhaus or in the other bath-houses, after 2 P.M., with service . I o One mineral bath in do. before 2 P.M., with service o 70 TOWN REGULATIONS. 7 I fl. kr. One mineral douche bath, with service . I 50 One Russian steam bath and cold douche, with- out service . . . . . .10 One cold douche bath, without service . . o 60 One peat bath, including a bath of fresh water afterwards, as follows : With 48 kilogrammes of peat . . . .20 60 .2 30 ,,/2 .... 2 60 ,,84 .... 2 80 96 ....30 One salon peat bath in the new Curhaus bath . 3 o One iron bath . . . . . .10 One bath at the Sauerbrunnen . . .10 One fresh-water bath, with service . . .10 Each person in the public bath . .. .05 Heating the bath-room with woodfire . . o 20 Use of Bath Linen. Each bath-gown . . . . . . o 20 Each bath-sheet . . . . . .010 Each towel . . . . . .04 Where a salon bath is taken, the price of bath linen is double these rates. In the Curhaus only peat baths can be had. With 6 kilogrammes of earth . i ., . o 24 12 ,_,- . o 48 Bran in addition, each 3 kilos. . . . O 50 72 TOWN REGULATIONS. fl. kr. Carlsbad Sprudel soap-lye, per litre . . . o 20 Carlsbad Sprudel-lye salt, per kilo. . . .10 With Sprudel soap in addition . . . . o 70 Sea-salt, 2 to 5 kilos., per kilo. . . . . o 40 Common-salt, 2 to 5 kilos., per kilo. . . .020 In every bath-house there is a complaint book. REGULATIONS FOR PUBLIC CARRIAGES. 1. The hirer is at liberty to select any vehicle he may choose, without regard to its position upon the rank. 2. Where the carriage is hired by the hour, the fare commences from the time of engaging the carriage. Where the fare is paid by distance, a delay of ten minutes is allowed ; beyond this time, for each half- hour's waiting, for a one-horse carriage, 40 kr. ; two- horse carriage, 60 kr. For a longer time, in which a wait of three hours is included, for each half-hour's delay beyond this time, one-horse carriage, 20 kr. ; two-horse carriage, 30 kr. 3. From 9 P.M. to 6 A.M. half-fare additional is charged. If the carriage is hired by the hour, during the day, and is kept beyond 9 P.M., half-fare additional is to be paid for the time after that hour. 4. No charge is made for small articles taken inside the carriage. For luggage carried outside a one-horse carriage, not exceeding i i cwt., 30 kr., and on a two- horse carriage, not exceeding 2 cwt., 50 kr. TOWN REGULATIONS. 73 5. Should the carriage, after being hired, be counter- manded by the hirer, a compensation of one florin for a one-horse carriage, and I fl. 50 krs. for a two-horse carriage must be paid, unless the delay, if reckoned by time, entitle the driver to more. 6. The driver of a carriage can in no case decline to take a fare, unless he can show it to be impossible to undertake it. 7. If the drive be interrupted by any accident to either the driver or his vehicle, he has no claim what- ever on the hirer. 8. If the driver of a public vehicle have accepted an engagement, he shall make it known by laying his whip down on his seat. 9. The driver is bound to supply the hirer with the same carriage as he had in use when hired ; and, unless by the express consent of the hirer, he cannot transfer the contract to any other driver. 10. Public carriages are required, when conveying a fare, to proceed at a trot whenever the ground will permit. 1 1 . The driver is bound, whenever he is hired by time, to show the hirer his watch and to call attention to it ; should he fail to do this, the time, as computed by the hirer, will be assumed to be correct without further question. 12. One-horse carriages are bound to be capable of holding three persons, and two-horse carriages five persons. 74 TOWN REGULATIONS. 13. The driver is not permitted, unless with, the express consent of the hirer, to convey any other person either in the carriage or on the box. 14. Each carriage is bound to have hung in the carriage a fahr-Hlleten block ; on the front of the leaves of this block a tariff of fares must be printed. The back of the leaf may be used by the passenger for making any complaint, which should be sent to the Burgomaster at Carlsbad, either by being at once handed to a policeman or sent through the post. FARES. Fares to any place not mentioned in this list are left to be a matter of private arrangement between the driver and hirer. By Time. I. For driving within the precincts of Carlsbad (bounded by the Egerbriicke, Salzsudhaus, Biirgerver- sorgungshaus, along the main road to the Reichsadler, Helenenhof, Bellaria, English Church, and by the Park- strasse and the Alte Bahnhofstrasse) fl. kr. Two-horse carriage for the first | hour . I 20 ,, every subsequent J hour o 60 One-horse carriage for the first \ hour . . o 50 beyond \ and less than hour . . . . . . . o 80 for every subsequent \ hour . . o 20 TOWN REGULATIONS. By Distance. Two-horse Carriage. Oi e-hovse Carriage. II. From any point -within the precincts fl. kr. fl. kr. of the town for the drive To Sans-Souci (Karlsbriicke) Schon- brunn, Posthof, Hospital, Swirnming- bath, Klein- Versailles I o 70 To Jagerbaus, Donitzer Waterworks, Drahowitz, Cemetery, Freundschafts- saal, Kaiserpark .... I 50 I To Kestaurant Leibold at Pirkenham- mer . 2 50 I 50 To Aberg, Leonhard, Bergwirthshaus, Zettlitz, Schwarzenbergbriicke, Aich, Dallwitz, Fischern, Pirkenhammer (including the factories) . 3 o 2 III. From any point within the precincts of the town, including a stay of three hours and return drive To Altrohlau ..... 6040 To Schlackenwerth, Lichtenstadt, Tiip- pelsgriin, Engelhaus 6 70 4 So To Elbogen, Giesshubl-Puchstein, Giess- hiibler Porcelain Works . 8 o 5 o To Petschau, Buchau 9 o 6 o To Joachimsthal ..... 10 O 7 o To Hauenstein, Welchau . . . j 12 o 8 o To Schlackenwerth and back through Lichtenstadt ..... Through Fischern, Altrohlau, Tiippels- griin and Edersgrim to Lichtenstadt and back ..... To Elbogen and back through Schlag- i 9 o 6 o genwald and Pirkenhammer . To Elbogen, fetching the passengers from Hans Heilings Warteplatz and back through Aich or Hammer To Giesshubl-Puchstein and back along the Schlackenwerther Chau?see To Giesshiibl and back along the Schlackenwerther Chaussee but al- lowing time to see Schlackeuwerth . IO O 7 o 7 6 TOWN REGULATIONS. IV. From the Railway Station. 1. To any point within the town or vice versa fl. kr. Two-horse carriage . . . .20 One-horse . . . . i 20 2. To any of the places mentioned above in II. or III. or vice versa (a) For all places on the right bank of the Eger, in addition to the regular fare as above mentioned Two-horse carriage . , . . . I 20 One-horse . . <. ., . . o 60 (5) For all places on the left bank of Eger, deduct from the regular fare as above mentioned Two-horse carriage . . . . I 20 One-horse ,, . . . . o 60 STANDS. For two-horse vehicles : Theaterplatz and Kaiserstrasse. For one-horse vehicles : Marktplatz, Geweihdiggasse, Sprudelgasse, Lower Kaiserstrasse and Parkstrasse, behind the military baths. REGULATIONS FOR HIRING DONKEYS AND DONKEY- CARRIAGES. The office where orders are taken is in the Stadthaus, in the Miihlbadgasse (first floor, Stadtkassa). TOWN REGULATIONS. 77 Fares. fl. kr. For the whole day . . . . . . 4 50 For the whole day, if hired for one week or more . , . . . , .40 For half a day . . . . .30 During the forenoon : for a ride or drive to the Kreuzberg, the Hirschensprung, or any other place at a similar distance . I 50 During the forenoon : for a ride or drive, on level ground, per hour . . . .080 Drive to the springs or "baths within the town, including the Eisen- and Sauer- brunn baths, with or without return drive O 80 The drivers are not entitled to ask for any douceur, as they are employed by the town. For any ride or drive commenced in the forenoon, but not completed until after I P.M., the fare for the day has to be paid. The fares for conveyance to the baths are only in force until i o'clock P.M. ; after which time half a day must be paid for. If any other object than a mere visit to the baths be combined with a ride or drive thither, the fare according to time comes at once into force. In ordering donkeys the following regulations must be observed : Only such orders as are lodged at the above office will be attended to. 78 TOWN REGULATIONS. Owing to the distance of the stables from the office, it is requested that orders may be given at least half an hour before the animal is required. More than one grown-up person or two children under the age of twelve years are not allowed to sit in the carriage. A contravention of this rule will involve the driver in punishment. He is also not permitted to make his donkey go faster than a walking pace. Payment must be made in advance, and the hirer will be provided with a ticket, which is only available on the day of issue. Afternoon excursions can only be coun- termanded up to 12 o'clock noon. It is requested that any improper behaviour on the part of the driver may be at once reported to the town officials in the above-named office. OMNIBUSES. To the station from the Becher Platz, opposite the Hotel Goldener Schild, every hour before the departure of the trains. Fare, 40 kr. ; each piece of luggage, 10 kr. To Leibold's Restaurant and PirJcenhammer from the Theater Platz, Neuewiese, ist May to 3Oth Septem- ber : From Carlsbad Arrive at Leibold's Arrive at Theater- Platz : Restaurant : Pirkenhammer 1.30 P.M. 2 P.M. 2. 10 P.M. 2 2-3 2.40 3 3-30 ,, 3-40 ,i 3-30 4 4.10 TOWN REGULATIONS. Return from Pirkenhammer to the Leibold Restaurant. : 2.10 P.M. 2.40 340 4.10 5.10 Fare, 40 kr. Leibold Restaurant to Carlsbad : 5.30 P.M. 6 6.3 7 Omnibuses also run to ErVs Restaurant, Habsburg, and Pirkenhammer, starting from the Goldener Thurm, Sprudelgasse Leaving Carlsbad at 9.30 A.M. and 1.30 and 3 P.M. Returning at 12.15, 2.15, 4.30, and 6 P.M. Single fare, 40 kr. To Aich, from ist May to 3Oth September, from the Theatre Platz Leaving Carlsbad at 1.30 and 3.30 P.M. Returning at 5.30 and J P.M. Single fare, 40 kr. To Dallwitz, from ist May to 3Oth September, from the Dienstmann Institut, on the Becher Platz Leaving Carlsbad at 1.30 and 3.30 P.M. Returning at 5 and 7 P.M. Single fare, 60 kr. Return fare, I fl. To GriesshilU Puchstein, from ist May to 3Oth Septem- ber, starting from the omnibus office on the Becher Platz Leaving Carlsbad at 1 1 A.M. and i P.M. Returning at 6 P.M. Return fare, I fl. 50 kr. 8o TOWN REGULATIONS. To Petschau, from the Post-Office, 12.30 P.M.; re- turn, 6.30 P.M. Fare, I florin. To NeudecJc, from the Post-Office, 6.30 and 11.30 A.M. ; return, 6 A.M. and 3 P.M. Two hours. Fare, 90 kreutzers. POST AND TELEGRAPH REGULATIONS. The Post and Telegraph Office is in the Markt Platz, and is open in summer 6 A.M. to 12 P.M. (istMay to 3Oth September), and in winter from 8 A.M. to 9 P.M. For sale of stamps, issuing of post-office orders, and register- ing of letters, from 7 A.M. to 7 P.M. There are also branch and pillar post-offices in various parts of the town. Postal Hates. Countries. Prepaid, each 15 grammes (i oz.) Post-cards, each 2 grammes. Printed mat- ter, prepaid, eacti 50 gram- mes (i j oz.) Austria . . . . \ Germany . . . J 5 kr. 2 kr. 2 kr. Montenegro and Servia . 7 n 4 2 All other European coun- } tries, Canada and the > 10 5 3 United Statesof America ) South America and Asia 20 8 6 Unstamped letters are forwarded, but double postage is collected on delivery. Only Austrian post-cards and stamps are available. TOWN REGULATIONS. 8 I TELEGRAPH RATES. Austria-Hungary A first charge of 24 kr., and each word . 2 kr. France First 5 words 60 kr., and each additional word 12 Great Britain and Ireland First 5 words 85 kr., and for each addi- tional word . . . . . 17 ,, German Empire A first charge of 24 kr., and each word . 6 ,, Italy A first charge of 24 kr., and each word . 8 ,, Switzerland Per word . . ., . . 6 ,, United States and Canada From I fl. 27 kr. to 2 fl, 47 kr., according to destination. In all cases the address and signature must be paid for. TARIFF OF THE DIENSTMANN-!NSTITUTE. Proprietor WILLIAM KNOLL. 1 . For messages and light employments, or carrying packages up to 15 kilogrammes, ^ hour, 15 kr. ; J hour, 20 kr. ; I hour, 30 kr. ; each additional hour, 15 kr. 2. For heavy work, and for messages beyond town limits, J hour, 2O kr. ; ^ hour, 30 kr. ; I hour, 40 kr. ; each additional hour, 20 kr. 7 82 TOWN REGULATIONS. 3. Carrying packages to and from the railway station, 50 to 60 kilogrammes, 60 kr. Each additional 10 kilo- grammes, ip kr. 4. Messages from 9 P.M. to 6 A.M. are charged half as much again as ordinary messages. Cleaning clothing and boots, per week, each per- son, I florin. Carrying a piano one way, 2 florins. ,, both ways, 3 florins. VIII. DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN AND PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS. 5 HE town of Carlsbad consists principally of two long streets, which extend for about a mile on either side of the river Tepel, a clear and rapid stream, which winds through the town in the shape of the letter S, 'and which is crossed by one large stone, and a number of small iron and wooden bridges. These streets, as we approach from the station, take the names, on the left bank, of the Gartenzeile, Miihlbadgasse, and Alte Wiese ; and on the right the Eger Strasse, Kaiser Strasse, Kreuzgasse, Sprudelgasse, and Neue Wiese, the latter being simply portions of the long Marienbad road, which runs through the town. In the centre of the town, on the left bank, is the Markt Platz, in the immediate neighbourhood of which are the Sprudel Colonnade, Mlihlbrunn Colonnade, and the Curhaus the principal places of resort of the visitors. From the Markt Platz along the left bank of the river runs the Alte Wiese, a favourite promenade (seepage 109). 84 TOWN AND BUILDINGS, The oldest portion of the town is that surrounding the Markt Platz and Sprudel Colonnade, while the newer hotels and villas extend on either side of the Tepel, and line the heights above the left bank. Beyond the Alte Wiese the valley of the Tepel is laid out with beautiful walks and drives, having all the advantages of a large and well-kept park. (For detailed descrip- tions of the walks and drives see page 109.) The town at present has about 1 2,OOO inhabitants and 900 houses, mostly hotels and lodging-houses, the majority of which have been built within the last thirty years. At the time of the visit of Charles IV. in 1358, the town only contained forty houses ; and even two hundred years later, only consisted of the Markt Platz and the Sprudelgasse. The next streets built were the Kreuzgasse and the Andreasgasse. The first houses on the Alte Wiese were built in 1690, and in 1796 the first shops on the Alte Wiese were erected by the town guilds, in whose possession they remained until 1842, when they were sold to private individuals and rebuilt. None of the buildings in Carlsbad have in themselves any particular historical or architectural interest ; but, taken as a whole, the town is well built, and, aided by its natural attractions, it is picturesque and cheerful. The chief occupation of the inhabitants of Carlsbad is housing, feeding, and generally supplying the wants of its numerous visitors. Its principal industries are the polishing and carving of objects made of sprudel- TOWN AND BUILDINGS. 8 5 stone, the manufacture of the various products of the Carlsbad salts, and of hand-made needles and pins, which latter have quite a celebrity, and, which as late as the commencement of this century were known throughout Germany and Austria as " Carlsbad wares." Goethe during one of his visits sent a parcel of Carls- bad pins to his favourite Fraulein von Stein, with a letter telling her they cost 7 marks, "as brass was so dear." There are also a few manufactories of boots and gloves, which are of excellent quality. A considerable trade is carried on in porcelain, which is made in the vicinity. Other specialties of Carlsbad are " Carlsbad plums," which are prepared by the fruit being partially dried in the sun, and which are even superior to the finest French plums ; and " Carlsbad wafers," a thin dessert biscuit, which can be had best at Barbara Bayr's, Konigshof. The inhabitants of Carlsbad are a kindly, intelligent, and industrious people, and always willing to do all in their power to add to the comfort and enjoyment of visitors. An exceedingly pleasant trait in their character is their kindness to birds, of which there are a great number and variety in and around Carlsbad. Killing, and robbing the nests of small birds is strictly forbidden by law, and besides this, a society cares for and feeds them during the winter. The birds are therefore naturally very tame, and any visitor who has a few crumbs to scatter can soon attract numbers of them round him. 86 TOWN AND BUILDINGS. The majority of the inhabitants are Eoman Catholics, but there are German and English Protestant and Russian churches, as well as a Jewish synagogue. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. The principal centre of attraction is the Sprudel Colonnade, a large and handsome pavilion of iron and glass, erected in 1879 over the Sprudel and Hygeia springs at a cost of 254,000 florins. The principal entrances are from the Sprudelgasse and at the west end. The springs are in the north-east portion of the building, while the south-west portion consists of a large promenade hall, in which is ample space for a thousand people. Here the orchestra plays every morning from six until eight. After drinking each glass of the waters, visitors promenade round the hall to the strains of the band for a quarter of an hour, all being done with the greatest regularity, notices being put up at either end requesting the visitors to circulate from right to left. This long line of promenaders, of many nationalities, with their varied costumes, is one of the most picturesque sights in Europe, to which a grotesque element is lent by the earthenware mugs which each patient carries, either in their hand or, more generally, suspended from their necks. The hall is prettily decorated with palms and flowering plants, while round the walls and up the centre are ranged comfortable seats for the use of the Curguest's spec- tators. On dark days the hall is brilliantly illuminated TOWN AND BUILDINGS. 87 by handsome chandeliers. Opposite the orchestra is a monument erected in honour of the celebrated Carlsbad physician, Dr. Becher, died 1792 (see p. 40). En- tered from the promenade hall are the rooms containing the springs, which are conducted from the main reser- voir by pipes. (For description of the springs see P- 93-) Beside the Sprndel Colonnade is the Sprudel Bath- house, which contains thirty-six baths ; the baths on the ground floor being of porcelain, and on the second floor of metal. On the opposite side of the river, below the Markt Platz, fronting on the Muhlbrunngasse, is the Miihlbrunn Colonnade, a handsome covered promenade of Corin- thian architecture, 410 feet in length, supported by 96 pillars, and decorated with eight classical stone statues. The building was completed in 1880 at a cost of 800,000 florins. Under the Colonnade are the Miihlbrunnen (p. 101), Neubrunnen (p. 101), There- sienbrunnen (p. 102), Bernhardsbrunnen (p. 102), and Elizabethquelle (p. 103). Near the Miihlbrunn Colonnade, and attached to the Stadthaus, is the Milhlbad, which is supplied by the waters of the springs in the Miihlbrunn Colonnade. These bath-rooms are exceedingly comfortable and well fitted up, the baths being of porcelain. The Stadthaus is a plain building, erected in 1874 on the foundations of an older structure built in 1510. Beyond the Muhlbrunn Colonnade is the Curhaiis, a 88 TOWN AND BUILDINGS. large castellated building of little architectural preten- sions, erected in 1 874-77, at a cost of 3 50,000 florins. The interior, however, is comfortable, and admirably fitted for the purpose for which it was designed. The lower storey is used for bathing purposes the bathing rooms being high and well ventilated, and some of them, called " Salon-bader," are luxuriously fitted up. In all, there are seventy-five mineral baths, twenty-six peat baths, and a Eussian steam bath, which, how- ever, is fitted up in a rather primitive style. On this floor there is also a reception room. In the upper storey is a large concert salon, in which concerts and balls are given (p. 61), a restaurant, and three reading- rooms, which are liberally supplied with the principal European newspapers. The English and American newspapers taken are The Times, The Daily News, Daily Telegraph, Standard, Illustrated London News, Punch, Galignani's Messenger, New York Herald, Tri- bune, and the American Register. Readers pay a small fee for admission (see page 63). To the east of the Curhaus is the Stranger's Hospital for poor patients visiting Carlsbad, containing four bed and four bath-rooms. Beyond the Curhaus, to the west, is the Military Hospital, in which accommoda- tion is provided for 3 3 officers and 2 1 privates. The hospital was built in 1856 from the proceeds of a lottery. In the dining-hall is a large oil- painting by Randier, representing the discovery of the springs at Carlsbad by Charles IV. Admission to the hospital can only be had by an order from the TOWN AND BUILDINGS. 89 Commandant. The springs which supply the hospital are the Hochbergerquelle and the Kaiserbrunn. Beyond the hospital is the Stadt-Parlc, a prettily laid out open space, shaded with trees, under which tables and chairs are placed for visitors to drink their coffee, and sit and listen to the band. In the park is an excellent restaurant, open I st May to I st September. On the opposite side of the river, near the stone bridge, is the Neiibad, a commodious stone building, completed in 1880, at a cost of 165,600 florins ex- clusive of the cost of the ground. On the ground- floor are twenty-two peat baths, and on the first floor twenty-four mineral baths, the first-class baths being of porcelain, and the second-class of wood. Opposite the Neubad is the Zweite VolJcschule, in the upper storey of which is the Town Library and Museum, open Wednesdays and Saturdays, 2 to 4 P.M. The Museum contains collections of natural history, minerals, and a few curiosities. On a small eminence above the Markt Platz is the oldest building in Carlsbad, the Stadtthurm, or Town- tower, erected in 1608 on the site of the castle built by Charles IV. in 1358. It was greatly dam- aged by fire in 1757, and rebuilt a few years later. Formerly all guests arriving at Carlsbad were wel- comed by a flourish of trumpets sounded from the town tower. This custom was abolished in 1852, as visitors began to complain about their rest being con- stantly disturbed at all hours. In the Markt Platz is a monument to the Holy 90 TOWN AND BUILDINGS. Trinity, erected in 1716 by the Countess Wrtby, in commemoration of the escape of Carlsbad from the plague, which raged throughout Bohemia in 1713. 'In former times on Trinity Sunday the clergy of the town marched round the statue in procession after morning service. Nearly opposite the statue is the Post and Telegraph Office, erected in 1875. (For post and telegraph regulations see p. 80.) The most beautiful public building in Carlsbad is the new Theatre on the Neue Wiese, a handsome edifice of Renaissance architecture, with a fine facade decorated with groups of figures representing Poetry and Music, and richly ornamented with designs in terra-cotta and plaster-work. The building which was erected in a remarkably short space of time, the first stone having been laid on the I st of November 1885, and the first performance given on the 1 5th of May 1886 occupies the site of the old theatre erected in 1784. The interior is chastely decorated in white and gold in Louis XVI. style, the balcony panels being richly upholstered in red velvet. On the ceiling are four fine frescoes. The whole theatre is lighted with electric light, and the body of the house is protected from fire by an iron curtain. On the first and second floor are refreshment buffets. (For hours of performance and prices of seats see page 59.) CHURCHES. The principal church in Carlsbad is the Church of St. Magdalen or the Dekanal Kirche, TOWN AND BUILDINGS. gi a plain Romanesque edifice with two towers, erected in 1733-36 on the site of an older building which had fallen into great disrepair, and which was pulled down by desire of the Emperor Charles VI., who made a first donation of I ooo ducats towards the new building. It is not known when the original church was founded, the church records having been destroyed during the great fire of 1 604. The earliest mention of it, however, in existing records is in 1419. Like the exterior, the interior is plain, and contains little of either antiquarian or artistic interest. Above the high altar is a picture of St. Magdalen, which was presented by Lord Odo Russell, the late British Ambassador at the Court of Berlin, who lived for some time at Carlsbad, and became a great favourite in the town. To the left is a painting representing the con- version of St. Magdalen, and on the right the Cruci- fixion with St. Magdalen at the Cross. Above the altar are four colossal figures of the Evangelists. The services in the church are performed by the deacons of the ancient Order of the Red Cross with the Star, which was established during the Crusades to care for the sick and wounded. On their return from Palestine in 1227 they settled in Bohemia, and were presented with a hospital in Prague by King "VVen- celaus I., which is still under their charge. They were admitted to Holy Orders by Pope Gregory IX., and have since supplied ministers to many of the Bohemian churches. The Order still holds consider- able possessions in Austria and Bohemia. 92 TOWN AND BUILDINGS. The Andreas Kirche in the Pragerstrasse, dating from 1500, is the oldest ecclesiastical building in Carlsbad. Over the altar is a fine painting of the martyrdom of St. Andreas, which is attributed to Leonardo da Vinci. It was the gift of Countess Pauline von Luxenstein in 1677. A copy of this picture is in the Belvedere at Vienna. In the dis- used graveyard attached to the church, a son of Mozart, who died at Carlsbad in 1844, is buried. Hours of Service in the Roman Catholic Churches. Mass daily at 7, 9, and 10 A.M. Sundays and festivals, mass, 7 and 8 A.M. High mass with sermon, 9 A.M. Mass, 1 1 A.M Vespers, 3 P.M. The German Protestant Church in the Marienbad- strasse is a plain building consecrated in 1865. The church was erected by subscriptions collected among the Curguests, among whom the King of Prussia and King George of Hanover were liberal subscribers. Services on Sundays at 1 1 A.M. Pastor Eodewald. The Russian Church, Marienbadstrasse, was erected in 1867. Services from May ist to September 3Oth Sundays and festivals, 1 1 A.M. and 6 P.M. The English Church on the Schlossberg, a tastefully designed Gothic edifice, was consecrated by the Lord Bishop of London in 1877. Services from 1st May to 3Oth September Sundays 1 1 A.M. and 4 P.M. The services are performed by visiting clergymen of the Church of England. ( 93 ) IX. THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. tells us that the method in which the Emperor Charles IV. took his bath was by sitting on a stone bench, carved out of the rock, over the Kaiser Karlsquelle, with his legs in the water. For the first two centuries after the discovery of the springs the waters were only used for bathing. During this period the patient was kept in the hot mine- ral water for eight to twelve hours at a time, the object being to cause an eruption to break out over the whole body, in order that the " evil humours," as they were called, might be brought to the surface ; or, as we are told, " the waters bit the skin so that the evil matter might come out." When this took place the patient was pronounced in a fair way to recovery. It was not until 1 550 that the patients began to drink the waters. This treatment was advocated by Dr. Payer in a pamphlet published in 1522, in which he writes "Nature has created this bath for patients and not for anybody's lust or amusement." The new treatment at first seems to have been as heroic as the old, as Dr. Hoffmann, a celebrated 94 THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. physician of his time (1705), prescribed a dose of eigh- teen to twenty glasses of the water as a commencement, which was gradually increased to thirty or forty glasses. Dr. Tilling (1756), who was himself under treatment, states that he drank from fifty to sixty glasses within two hours. At that time drinking was not done, as at present, in the open air at the springs, but in a warm room, and the effect was similar to that of drinking water in a Turkish bath. When the drinking of the waters was first instituted it was alternated with the bathing seven days being devoted to drinking, and the next seven days to the baths ; but as time went on the latter period was gradually diminished and the former extended, till finally both the waters and the baths were taken together. In 1766 the first really scientific analysis of the physical and chemical proper- ties of the mineral waters was made by Dr. David Becher, who published a pamphlet embodying his ana- lysis and setting forth his treatment, which may be said to have been the first work which attracted general attention to the springs of Carlsbad. The first document setting forth the virtues of the mineral waters at Carlsbad is a fine Latin Ode written by Dr. von Bohuslaw of Lobkowitz in 1510. The theory of the rising of the springs may be generally explained as follows. The rain water and melting snow, and probably part of the river Tepel and its tributary streams, percolating through the crevices of the strata of granite rocks which underlie the THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 95 district, absorb a number of mineral constituents carbonate of soda, lime, and magnesia, sulphate of soda a ad potash, chloride of sodium, &c. The celebrated chemist Herr Gottl, by a series of exhaustive experi- ments, has proved conclusively that the granite of which the hills round Carlsbad are formed contains all the mineral constituents which have been found in the springs. These waters penetrate to a great depth, which, from the temperature of the springs, is ascer- tained to be not less than 8000 feet. By the action of the earth's heat at this depth on these mineral con- stituents, carbonic acid gas is given off, which forces the water back again to the surface, the hottest spring being that which has the shortest channel connecting it with the main reservoir. This spring is the Sprudel, but all the other springs in Carlsbad come from the same source. The taste of all the waters, which are free from smell and not unpleasant, having been com- pared to the flavour of over-salted chicken broth, is the same, except that the cooler waters contain rather more carbonic acid gas. When exposed to the air the waters become cloudy and precipitate a brown sub- stance, which is precisely of the same nature as the Sprudelstein. The daily discharge of the springs is 2,000,000 gallons, of which two-thirds is discharged by the Sprudel. 9 6 THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF THE SPRINGS. Analyses of the springs have been made by Dr. Berger (1708), Dr. Borries (1733), Dr. Becher (1770), Dr. Schneider (1855), Herr Eaysky (1862), Herr Gottl (1870), and by Professor Ludwig and Dr. Mauthner (1879). Their leading constituents, sulphate of soda, carbonate of soda, and muriate of soda, place them among the so-called alkaline and saline springs, or Glauber salt waters. A comparative analysis of nearly all the springs has been frequently made, as above mentioned, in order to ascertain the similarity or the difference which the springs may show in their composition. It will be readily seen on examining the following table, showing the results obtained by Professor Ludwig in 1 879 of the three chief springs, that their constituents are almost identical : LEADING CONSTITUENTS OF THE WATERS. 10,000 Grammes of the Water Sprudel. MUhlbrunn. Schlossbrunn. contain Temp. 162 F. Temp. 132 F. Temp. 126 F. Grammes. Grammes. Grammes. Sulphate of soda . . 24.05 23.91 23.16 Carbonate of soda 12.98 12.79 12.28 Chloride of sodium . 10.42 10.23 10.05 Carbonate of lime 3.21 3-27 3-34 Carbonate of magnesia 1.6; 1.61 1.61 Sulphate of potash . 0.86 1.19 1-93 Total of solid constituents 55-17 54-73 53-30 Carbonic acid half com- ) bined \ 7.76 7.68 7-49 Carbonic acid free . . 1.90 5-17 5-82 THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 97 Later analysis has revealed some other constituents, but only in very small quantities, namely, carbonate of iron, oxydulate of manganese, phosphate of alumina, phosphate of lime, fluoride of potassium, iodide and bromide of sodium, lithium, boracic acid, rubidium, caesium, and arsenic. The temperature of the springs is as follows : Fahrenheit. Re"aumeur. 1. Sprudel ") 2. Hygiensquelle } have a temperature of 166 59.5 3. ernhardsbrunn , . . . 151 53 4. Curhausquelle 149 52 5. Neubrunn 145 50 6. Felsenquelle . . . . . 140 48 7. Theresienbrunn . . . . . 140 48 8. Milhlbrunn . . . .-133 45 9. Schlossbrunn 130 43-5 10. Marktbrunn . . . .122 40 11. Kaiserbrunn . . . .-.,.. 120 39 12. Elisabethquelle ... . . . 116 37-6 13. Hochbergerquelle - .' ". " :' ' ' ." 106 33 14. Kaiser Garlquelle .--. --. - . 102 31 15. Russische Kronenquelle . ,^ ,-_., ; 97 29 1 6. Sprudelsauerling . . ; . r> r .. 84 23 Eleven only of these springs are now prescribed by physicians, viz., (i.) The Sprudel ; (2.) The Berrihards- brunn ; (3.) The Neulrunn ; (4.) The Felsenquelle ; (5.) The Theresieribrunn ; (6.) The Muhlbrunn ; (7.) The Schlossbrunn; (8.) The MarJctbrunn ; (9.) The Kaiser- Irunn ; (10.) The Elisabethquelle ; (i I.) The Kaiser Carlquelle. THE SPRUDEL is the most abundant and the most used 9 8 THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. of the Carlsbad springs. It discharges about 90 gallons per minute, or 1 30,000 gallons per day. The waters are used both for drinking and bathing, and also for the manufacture of Sprudel salts. This spring has the property of rapidly encrusting any objects placed in it, with a thick yellowish brown coating, called sprudel- stein, consisting principally of lime and silicious earth, the yellow colour being due to a small quantity of iron which it contains. The water is so impregnated with this earth that the pipes which conduct it to the sur- face have to be cleaned four times a year. The ex- planation of this phenomenon is that the mineral con- stituents in the water are held in solution by the carbonic acid gas. As soon as the water comes into contact with the air, it discharges its gas and precipi- tates the solid matter it contains. In addition to this sprudelstein, a greenish mould is formed at the edge of the springs, which, on microscopic examination, has been found to consist of animalculae of a very low order. The waters are conducted from the main reser- voir to the surface by iron pipes, which are about 20 feet in depth. Only about one-sixth of the water in the spring is discharged in the fountain, the remainder supplying the various bath-houses and the factory of the Sprudel salts, any excess of the amount required for these purposes being allowed to escape into the Tepel. The water rises in a volume about ij ft. in diameter and 3 ft. in height, and every few minutes suddenly springs up to a height of 6 to 8 ft., with THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 99 a faint subterranean murmur, throwing up clouds 'of steam. When the volume of steam becomes excessive it is considered an almost certain sign of approaching rain. The Sprudel has a temperature of 166 Fahr., hot enough to boil eggs ; indeed some of the thrifty house- keepers in the neighbourhood use the water for cooking purposes. (For analysis see page 96.) The analysis of a large body of the water made by Herr H. Gottl of Carlsbad gives traces of twenty metals and acids, of which gold is one. There have been many violent eruptions of the Spru- del when the spring, either from an excess of steam or extra pressure of the water, has broken through the upper crust, necessitating new borings and the sealing up again of the spring. (See page .) During the great earthquake at Lisbon the spring ceased to flow for three days. THE HYGIENSQUELLE, which springs beside the Sprudel, broke forth in 1809 during one of the eruptions of the latter spring, when it shot up in a column as high as the third storey of the neighbouring houses. Coming from the same source, its constituents are, of course, identical with those of the Sprudel. It is only used for bathing. THE MARKTBRUNN, in the Markt Platz, enclosed in a small colonnade, was discovered in 1838, and is used for drinking. Its temperature is 122 Fahr. The follow- ing analysis was made by Dr. Ludwig of Vienna in 1879:- IOO THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. In io,OOO grammes of water Sulphate of potass .... soda . Chloride of sodium .... Carbonate of lithia .... soda .... lime . magnesia . strontium . protoxide of iron manganese Borate of soda .... Oxide of alumina . . . . Phosphate of lime .... Fluor of sodium .... Silica Carbonic acid in combination . . 7.681 Free carbonic acid . . , . 5-557 Density ... . . 1.00357 THE KAISER KARLSQUELLE is also in tne Markt Platz, and has been enclosed since 1871. It is prin- cipally used for drinking. This is the oldest spring in Carlsbad, and is supposed to have been that in which the Emperor Charles IV. bathed. THE SCHLOSSBRUNN, discovered in 1789, is a short distance up the hill, beyond the Kaiser Karlsquelle. THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. IOI This spring suddenly disappeared on the occasion of the outbreak of the Sprudel in 1 809, and did not make its reappearance till 1823. The waters are principally used for drinking. (For analysis see page 96.) Op- posite the Schlossbrunn is the RUSSISCHE KRONEQUELLE, discovered in 1844, an ^ enclosed in the Hotel Russische Krone. The following springs are under the Miihlbrunn Colonnade : THE MUHLBRUNN, known since 15/1, and one of the most used of the springs. Near it is the NEUBRUNN, which, in spite of its name, has been known for three centuries. It was first recommended in 1748 by Dr. Springsfeld, who gave it this name. It has latterly fallen into disuse, it is supposed from the absurd notion that drinking it was apt to produce vertigo. Up to 1748 the spring was only used for the treatment of sick horses. The following is the analysis by Dr. Ludwig of Vienna in 1 879 : In 10,000 grammes of water Grammes. Sulphate of potass .... 1.839 soda .... 23.654 Chloride of sodium .... 10.309 Carbonate of lithia . . . . o. 1 1 3 soda .... 12.910 lime . . 3.287 ,, magnesia . . . I-59 2 strontium . . . 0.004 102 THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. Carbonate of protoxide of iron manganese Borate of soda , . . Oxide of alumina .... Phosphate of lime .... Fluor of sodium , Silica ,,,,,. Carbonic acid in combination . Free carbonic acid .... Density Temperature 145 Fahr. Grammes. 0.026 traces 0.036 0.006 0.004 0.046 0.709 54,535 7.627 4-372 1.00534 THE BERNHAKDSBRUNNEN, which takes its name from statue of St. Bernhard beside it, is also but little used. At the back of the Colonnade is the THERESIENBRUN- NEN, which has been used since 1 571. During the great eruption of the Sprudel in 1 809 this spring ceased to flow for two days. The following is the analysis by Dr. Ludwig of Vienna in 1 879 : In 10,000 grammes of water ' Sulphate of potass ,, ,, soda Chloride of sodium Carbonate of lithia soda lime Grammes. 1.905 23-774 10.278 O.II3 12.624 3-277 THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. 103 Carbonate of magnesia strontium . protoxide of iron . manganese Borate of soda . . . . [..'.. Oxide of alumina . Phosphate of lime Fluor of sodium Silica Carbonic acid in combination . , . 7.584 Free carbonic acid . ,. .. ,. 5- IO Density . . ... . 1.00537 Temperature 140 Fahr. The ELISABETHQUELLE was discovered in 1 874. Tem- perature, 1 1 6 Fahr. This is the coolest of the springs in general use. The following is the analysis by Dr. Ludwig of Vienna in 1879 : In 10,000 grammes of water Grammes. Sulphate of potass . -. '.'.. . 1.840 soda .. . 23.769 Chloride of sodium . . ' .>: Carbonate of lithia . , ..- 4 X. soda . lime magnesia 10.314 O.I 2 I 12.799 3-273 1.642 104 THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. Carbonate of strontium . protoxide of iron . manganese Borate of soda Oxide of alumina .... Phosphate of lime .... Fluor of sodium Silica Carbonic acid in combination . . 7.697 Free carbonic acid . . V . 6.085 Density . . . . . 1.00539 Beyond the Miihlbrunn Colonnade is the FELSENQUELLE, which came into use in 1844, and is one of the favourite drinking springs. The following is the analysis by Dr. Ludwig of Vienna in 1879 : In 10,000 grammes of water Sulphate of potass . soda Chloride of sodium . Carbonate of lithia . soda , lime . magnesia . strontium . protoxide of iron Grammes. 1.803 23-78S 10.314 0.116 12.836 3-293 1.615 0.003 0.026 THE SPKINGS OF CAKLSBAD. IO5 Carbonate of protoxide of manganese Borate of soda . .: , Oxide of alumina .... Phosphate of lime . Fluor of sodium .... Silica Carbonic acid in combination . Free carbonic acid . Density Temperature 140 Fahr. Opposite the Curhaus is the CURHAUSQUELLE, enclosed since 1866, and principally used for bathing. The analysis made by Herr Gottl in 1872 is as follows : In 1 6 ounces =: 7680 grains Grains. Sulphate of potass .... 1.920 soda . . '. .18.217 Chloride of sodium .... 8.303 Carbonate of soda .... 9.002 lime . . 2.459 magnesia . . 1.537 protoxide of iron . . 0.023 Phosphate of alumina . . . o.0 1 1 Silica ...... 0.469 41.941 Free carbonic acid . . . . -5 io6 THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. THE KAISERBRUNNEN was discovered in 1851, in excavating the foundations of the Military Hospital, to which it is now attached. It is open to the public for drinking up to 9 o'clock in the morning, after which it is used for the baths in the hospital. The analysis made by Dr. Ludwig of Vienna in 1 879 is as follows : In 10,000 grammes of water Grammes. Sulphate of potass .... 1.796 soda .... 23.411 Chloride of sodium . . . . 10.103 Carbonate of lithia . . . . o. 1 2 1 ,, soda .... 12.674 lime . -3-173 magnesia . , . 1.602 ,, strontium . . . 0.004 ,, oxide of iron . . 0.029 ,, ,, manganese . 0.002 Borate of soda .... 0.056 Oxide of alumina ', . . . 0.005 Phosphate of lime .... 0.007 Fluor of sodium .... 0.053 Silex 0.729 53765 Carbonic acid in combination . . 7. 581 Free carbonic acid .... 5-641 Density 1.00537 Temperature 120 Fahr. THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. IO/ THE EISENQUELLE is situated on the brow of the hill on the right bank of the Tepel, a short distance beyond the stone bridge. Though known for several centuries, it was only first used in 1852. This spring, rising from a separate source, differs entirely in its consti- tuents from the other waters of Carlsbad. It is classed among the chalybeate springs, and is recommended in the treatment of diseases requiring iron waters. On coming to the surface the water is clear, but on being exposed to the air it takes a slight yellowish tinge. Its temperature is only 48 Fahr., which it retains even in the hottest weather, The following is the analysis by Herr Gottl in 1852 : In 7680 grains of water - Grains. Sulphate of potass , 0.076 soda , . , .0.156 Chloride of sodium . , , . 0.152 Carbonate of soda .... 0.092 lime , 0.215 magnesia . . , 0.053 Phosphate of iron , , . O.O08 Oxide of iron , . . . . 0.345 Silica .,,.,. 0.013 Organic matter . . ... 0.268 1-378 Carbonic acid . . . 1.300 to 1.700. The waters are used both for drinking and bathing. IO8 THE SPRINGS OF CARLSBAD. THE SAUERBRUNN rises behind the Dorotlieenau. It contains but few mineral ingredients, but is largely impregnated with carbonic acid gas, and is an agree- able and refreshing drinking water. It is also used for bathing. Its temperature varies between 53 and 60 Fahr. X. WALKS. The letters and numbers in brackets refer to the numbers on the plan in the pocket at the end of the volume. These numbers are also plainly marked, for the guidance of visitors, on trees or rocks at the sides of the paths. To THE ALTE WIESE, KIESWEG, POSTHOF, AND KAISER PARK. )HE most frequented and one of the most beau- tiful promenades at Carlsbad is the Alte Wiese, " Old Meadow," which commences from the market-place and follows the left bank of the Tepel up the valley. The Alte Wiese, which is beautifully shaded with chestnut trees, presents an animated scene in the season, when it is thronged by all classes of visitors, who assemble here twice a day to promenade and to sit under the trees drinking their coffee and listening to the strains of the band at the Cafe Pupp. On the left-hand side, as far as the Cafe" Pupp, and on the river-side as far as the second bridge, the street is lined with good shops, giving it the appearance of I I O WALKS. a bazaar. At the farther end, in the Pupp'sche Allee, is the handsome Hotel and Cafd Pupp, at which the band plays thrice weekly. The open space in front of the Caf4 is planted with trees, under which are placed tables and chairs for the accommodation of visitors. In the CafiS is a large and handsome salon, in which the band plays when the weather is unfavourable. Beyond the Pupp'sche Allee we come to the Kiesiceg (C I ), a beautifully shaded avenue which leads along the river up the valley as far as the Kaiser-Brucke (C 1 1). We first pass the fine marble monument of Goethe, unveiled in 1883. The monument, the first erected to Goethe in Austria, cost 12,000 marks. To the right, above a little grotto, is the Rasumowska Platz, an open space with seats, named in honour of the Eussian Countess Rasumowska. The rocks on the side of the road here are covered with inscriptions recording the gratitude of many visi- tors, high and low, for the benefits they have received from the Carlsbad waters. We next pass on the right hand the Mohan Platz (C 6), a little shady nook with an iron table and seats, which were placed here by the family of the present Prince de Rohan, who has made forty-two visits to Carlsbad. On the trunk of a beech- tree we read an inscription to the memory of his father, the late Prince Louis de Rohan (d. 1837). Adjoining the Rohan Platz is the Kaizerin Sitz, " Empress's Seat," erected in memory of its having been the favourite resting - place of the Austrian WALKS. I I I Empress, Maria Ludovika (the third wife of Francis I.), who visited Carlsbad in 1 8 I O. Goethe has celebrated the erection of this Sitz in some charming verses. On the heights above the Sitz is the Summer Theatre (page 61). We now reach the Sans Souci (C 8), an elegant cafe, with a concert salon and tables under the trees. On the opposite side of the river is the little Dorotheen's Temple (Cd 12), erected in honour of the Herzogin Dorothee in 1791. A few steps farther bring us to a small rock called the Paulinen Sitz, dedicated to Pauline, Duchess of Hohenzollern. From this rock there is a most picturesque view of the romantic valley of the Tepel. The Kiesweg ends at the Karlsbriicke (C 1 1 ), an iron bridge of one arch crossing the Tepel, erected in 1880 at a cost of 29,000 fl. The first bridge here was simply a wooden foot-bridge, waggons and carriages having to cross the river over a ford. This bridge was replaced in 1798 by a carriage-bridge, which was carried away by a flood in I 80 1. A third bridge was then erected and opened by Maria Theresa, who named it the Karlsbriicke in honour of her brother, the Grand Duke Charles, the victor of Aspern. After this the bridge was several times destroyed by floods, lastly in 1821, when the heavy wooden beams, being carried down the river, did immense damage, breaking into the houses and carrying away a number of the bridges lower down. In 1822 the Town 1 I 2 WALKS. Council resolved to build an iron bridge, and began to collect subscriptions for this purpose ; but it was not until 1880 that the bridge was finally completed. Beyond the Karlsbrlicke the valley widens consider- ably and takes a sharp bend to the south, forming a picturesque amphitheatre, surrounded by beautifully wooded hills, rising abruptly from the level meadows. Here we come to the Vier Uhr Promenade (Ca 1 1 ), " Four o'clock Promenade " so called from its being in the shade after 4 P.M. a beautifully shaded avenue which leads up to the right to the Fiirstenstein-Sitz, "Princesses Seat" (Ca 12), a small platform of rock named in honour of Queen Pauline of Wiirtemburg, the Archduchess Maria of Austria, and the Duchess Amelia of Sachsen-Altenburg, three royal sisters who often visited Carlsbad. The names of the princesses are engraved in gilt letters on a black marble tablet. Farther on is the Schwarzeriberg Monument (Ca 14), a pyramid erected in honour of Field-Marshal Prince von Schwarzenberg, the conqueror of Leipzic, by some officers of the Austrian army. On the right of the Karlsbriicke are a number of shooting-galleries, which are largely patronised by visitors. In the meadow is a granite obelisk, erected in 1883, as a thank-offering, by several Hungarian patients who were cured at Carlsbad. To the left, on the brow of the hill, are the Sauerbrunn baths and drinking-hall (see p. 108). Above the Sauerbrunn is the Cafe" Schweizerhof, and farther along the brow of WALKS. I I 3 the kill the Cafd Schonbrunn, two favourite resorts in summer. From both the Kiesweg and the Vier Uhr Promenade well-laid-out paths lead up the hills through the woods, the directions being indicated everywhere by finger-posts. Following the main road, which is lined with poplar trees, and which follows the course of the Tepel, afford- ing beautiful glimpses of river and woodland scenery, we reach the Cafe Posthof, with a prettly laid out garden, where Labitzky's band plays on Mondays, Wednes- days, and Fridays from 4 to 6 P.M., the concerts on Friday being symphony concerts (entrance 50 kr.) The large concert salon, called the " Prussian Hall," was opened in 1817 with a ball, given in honour of Marshal Bliicher by the Cur-guests. From the Posthof an avenue of fruit-trees leads up the hill on the right to the Schwarzenberg Sitz (see above). Beyond the Cafe Posthof the course of the valley turns westward, and, continuing our walk, we next pass on the right the Antons Euhe (C 22), named in honour of King Anthony of Saxony. Here a path to the left, leading to Pirkenhammer, crosses the river over a foot-bridge. About ten minutes farther on we come to the Freundschafi's-Salle (C 31) or "Friendship's Salon," a favourite resort, with a good restaurant and cafe, erected in 1 8 1 923. The Salle was opened with a ball given in honour of the Duchess of Cumberland. The cafe is surrounded by a pretty and well-shaded garden, and military concerts are given twice weekly H I I 4 WALKS. from 4 to 6 P.M. Opposite is the Sitz der Freunde, "the Friends' Seat," erected in 1781, and named in honour of the Russian Admiral Orloff and Count Briihl, who were boon companions, and who often visited Carlsbad together. Five years later the Countess Briihl erected a small granite tablet with the inscrip- tion, ' A Hygeia le xxi. Aout MDCCLXXXVI. erige 1 par Tina Briihl." Near it is another stone with the inscrip- tion, " Elle e*carte les maux, les languors, les faiblesses, sans elle beauts' n'est plus " She drives away the evils of languor and weakness without her beauty cannot exist. Beyond this point the road, still following the river, again bends northwards, leading in about a quarter of an hour to the Kaiser Park (C 41), a Swiss chalet, with a cafe and restaurant nestling in a most pictu- resque and shady nook. The walk can be extended by following the road for half an hour to the village of Pirkenhammer (see p. I 26). To THE ECCE HOMO KAPELLE, FRANZ JOSEF'S HOHE, AND FINDLATER'S TEMPLE. Starting from the Pupp'sche Alle'e we turn to the right up the hill and reach the Mariannens Ruhe (A 10), a rocky prominence surmounted by a cross, from which there is a pretty view of the Alte Wiese and the town. On the side of the rock is the inscrip- tion, " Plus etre que paraitre " " Be more than you WALKS. I I 5 appear to be." This spot is named in honour of the Princess Marian of Saxony. From the Mariannen's Ruhe we take the Buturlin Weg (following the marks Ab), a road constructed by the Russian Count Buturlin, which ascends through the wood in about twenty minutes to the Hammer or Ecce Homo Kapelle. Here two paths, indicated by finger-posts, branch off, lead- ing to the Franz Josefs ITdhe, which is crowned with glorietta, commanding one of the most beautiful views round Carlsbad. Beyond the Franz Josef's Hohe we follow the path, A 29 to 12, where we again reach the Pupp'sche-Allee. Another path (B) from the Ecce Homo Chapel descends to the Findlater's Temple, a classical semi- circular building surrounded by a cupola, erected by Lord Findlater, a Scotch nobleman, in gratitude for the benefits he received from the Carlsbad waters. Beyond the Findlater's Temple a path descends on the right (Ca 2839) to the Freundschaft'.s Salle (p. 113), the main path (Ca 2815) leading to the Schwartzenberg Obelisk and the Vier Uhr Promenade (p. 112). To THE FINDLATER'S PYRAMID AND FREUNDSCHAFT'S- HOHE. Starting from the Mariennen's Ruhe (A 10), near the Pupp'sche Allee (see page 109), we take the first path to the right (Ab 1 1 ), which leads in windings I I 6 WALKS. through the wood, passing the Helencns Situ, the favourite resting-place of the Grand Duchess Helena of Russia, to the Mndlater's Pyramid, a granite obelisk, twenty-eight feet in height, erected in 1804 in honour of Lord Findlater, " the friend and beautifier of nature, as a token of the gratitude of the citizens of Carlsbad." The pyramid commands a fine view of the valley below. About a quarter of an hour farther up the hill (by path D) we come to the Freundsckaft's-Hohe (D 5), also commanding a beautiful view. From here a small footpath ascends to the Vogdhutte, the highest point on the left bank of the river with the exception of the Aberg. From the Freundschaft's-Hohe we descend to the Friedrich Wilhelm Platz, named in honour of Frederick William III., from which there is one of the finest views of the town. A little lower down (path "W) is an open space in the wood, which is often illuminated. From here a path winds down to the Marien Kapelle, behind the Hotel Pupp. To THE HlRSCHENSPRUNG. The easiest way of making the ascent of the Hir- sch en sprung is by starting from the Markt Platz or Curhaus and ascending to the English chapel, where we take the road to the left (B 5). After passing the mark B 8, we find a path to the left, called the Jubildumsweg, which leads to the Himmel auf Erden, a WALKS. I 1 7 little retired spot which scarcely merits its high-sound- ing name. Beyond this we take a path to the right, shortly after passing Jb 2, which joins the path, de- scribed below, leading directly up to the Hirschen- sprung. The rocks here are covered with inscriptions commemorating cures by the Carlsbad waters. A shorter but somewhat steeper path can be taken from the Markt Platz by passing the Schlossbrunnen and turning to the left along the Hirschensprung- gasse, from which a path (at A 5) turns to the right, leading in windings up the face of the hill. At Aa 8 the path divides, and we take that leading to the right, which shortly after joins the path from the Jubilaumsweg (see above). A short distance farther on the path divides, leading on the right directly to the restaurant, and to the left to Meyer's Gloriette, a little temple built by a merchant of Vienna who was a native of Carlsbad. Near this point is an isolated rock, on the summit of which is a bronze figure of a chamois. Beyond the Gloriette we pass a black marble tablet erected in honour of the Grand Duke of Saxe Weimar, and reach the Peterskohe, named in honour of Peter the Great, who ascended the Hir- schensprung mounted on a bare-backed horse, and inscribed on the cross the letters, M. S. P. I., " Manu sua Petrus I." This cross has unfortunately been destroyed, the present cross, which is on the summit of the rock, being modern. On the rock before the cross is a colossal bust of Peter the Great. On the I I 8 WALKS. face of the rock below is a black marble slab on which are inscribed the names of Russian nobles who have visited Carlsbad, the list being headed by the name of Peter the Great. A few steps above the Petershohe is the Theresienhohe, a small open space with a stone pryamid erected in honour of Theresa of Angouleme. A stone stairway now leads us to the summit of the Hirschensprung, which commands a magnificent pano- ramic view of the valleys of the Tepel and Eger and the Erzgebirge. A short distance below the summit, on a terrace, is a cafiS restaurant. The Hirschensprung, or Deer's Leap, is the tradi- tional spot from which the deer sprang while pursued by Charles IV. (see page 28). To THE BELVIDERE AND ABERG. Starting up the hill from the Marien Kapelle behind the Caf6 Pupp, and passing the Friedrich Wilhelm Platz (see page 1 1 6), we take the path to the right at B 20, and then to the left at B 19, along the brow of the hill, keeping the Freundschaffc's Hohe (see page 1 1 6) on our right, and after a pleasant walk of about twenty minutes through the woods we arrive at the Katha- rinen Platz (E 9), a sheltered nook among the trees, named in Leopold Stohr's " Reminiscences of Carls- bad," after his friend Katharine Deimel. A short distance beyond, a path to the left (Ea i 3) leads up to the Belvidere, which commands a fine view of the WALKS. I I 9 valley, with the ruins of Engelhaus in the distance. Near the Belvidere the path (G) descends to the Kaiser Park (see page 1 1 4). If, instead of turning off to the Belvidere at E 13, we keep straight on, we come to the Bild, so called from a picture of the Madonna fastened to a pine-tree. In about twenty minutes more, keeping along the path E, we reach the summit of the Aberg, 2000 feet above the sea, or 806 feet above the Sprudel, the highest point near Carlsbad. Near the summit is a cafe* and a tower, from which we have a magnificent view. Beyond the summit the path turns northwards, and descends to Ziegelhutte, where refreshments can be had. "We can return to Carlsbad by St. Leonard's Chapel and the Echo (see route below). Another way to reach the Aberg is by taking the road from the Schlossberg, passing the English Church, and following the road B till we come to B 13, when we take the road Be, leading to Kaiser Karl IV.' s Jagerhaus. Passing the bowling-green, we come to an open space, and crossing a small brook, find a path on the left (at Be 24), which leads up to the Russell Sitz, a seat on a rock named in honour of Lord Odo Russell, the late British Ambassador to the Court of Berlin. The rock commands a fine view of the Erzgebirge, through an opening in the woods. Beyond this we reach the Echo, a spot where an echo answers five or six times. From the Echo we take the path Beb, and next pass, situated on a small I2O WALKS. hill, the Chapel of St. Leonard, formerly the parish church of the ancient village of Thiergarten, of which only a few traces now remain of old walls built of Sprudelstein. The inhabitants of this village migrated to Carlsbad after King John had issued his charter (see page 28). The chapel has been restored by the late Lord Odo Russell, British Ambassador to the Court of Berlin. About ten minutes farther on we arrive at Zicgelhutte, from whence we take a path to the left, leading up to the summit of the hill (see route above). To THE WEISSES KREUZ AND SCHUTZEN PARK. Proceeding to the English Church, we take the road to the right (Bb), which we follow as far as the Restaurant Klein Versailles (Bb 12). Here we cross the meadows by a path which leads along the edge of the forest. A few paces beyond Bb 22 we turn to the right, and in about five minutes arrive at a group of rocks, surmounted by a white cross, called the Weisses Kreuz. Farther on, the path reaches the Marie Sophienweg, a carriage road, along which we turn first to the right (32) and then to the left (3 i), and wind- ing round the slope of the mountain, have beautiful views of the valley of the Eger. We now descend into the valley, and take the road leading to the rail- way station, and passing the restaurant of the Schutzen Park, return to Carlsbad. WALKS. I 2 I To THE PANORAMA, WALDSCHLOSS, DREI KREUZBERG, AND EWIGES LEBEN. Starting from the church opposite the Sprudel Colonnade, and proceeding up the Schulgasse to the left, we arrive first at the Stephans Platz, and then reach the Stadtgarten, an open space in which is a column surmounted by a statue of Charles IV., erected in 1858 to commemorate the 5