NEW YORK TO PEKING- BLANCHE SELLERS ORTMAN THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES NEW YORK. SCENE NEW YORK TO PEKING BY BLANCHE SELLERS ORTMAN PRIVATELY PRINTED AT SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA MDCCCCXXI COPYRIGHT 1921 BY BLANCHE SELLERS ORTMAN SAN FRANCISCO Tou have heard the beat of the off-shore wind, *And the thresh of the deep sea rain ; Tou have heard the song how long! how long! full out on the trail again." 632048 FOREWORD NEW YORK, October 6, ON THE eve of a big trip half way around the world, to cover Japan, Korea and China, many thoughts crowd themselves into my head and heart. The most prominent one reminds me how lucky I am to be given this opportunity to revisit a part of the world where so much will still be new to my eyes, but my happy con- templation is speedily changed to a more serious mood when I reflect upon the sadness and turmoil in which a greater part of inhabited globe finds itself after the great and horrible war. So when I received a letter from my friend Lucy, reminding me that all good things in this world are sent one, not to keep to one's self, but rather to be passed on to others, I decided to jot down my observations, and consequently, if you don't like them, please blame Lucy ! B.S.O. NEW YORK TO PEKING CHAPTER I r ~T v HE customary New York rush was on me like the _L proverbial plague. Dinners and luncheons, mixed up with Red Cross and other committee gatherings, capped on the final day by the wedding of a friend, to absent myself from which made me feel the ceremony would not be exactly legal. (Oh, how important mortal man sometimes feels. I later learned a Mongolian desert can reduce the size of this self-conceit). Our travelling party was to consist of four, Mr. and Mrs. "Biffy," R. (friend husband) and myself. The Biffys had already proceeded, later to meet up with us in San Francisco, whence we were to sail for Japan. R. had urgent business in Chicago, so he had already started, leaving me to trail and catch up as best I could. I hoped our well laid plans would carry out successfully, and that it would not prove to be a game of "crack the whip," with myself constituting the lash of said whip. When the long expected morning of my departure finally dawned, it found me ready to start hours before the scheduled time. Sister Betty had come from Buffalo for a few day's io NEW YORK TO PEKING visit, and was returning with me as far as her home town, so we are looking forward to a happy day on the train filled with visiting, knitting and chatting. My lovable friend Nell arose at an ungodly hour to bid me an affectionate goodbye, and to wave me off on my long journey of many miles and involving a separation of many months. With our eyes filled with unshed tears we hurriedly gave a last embrace to the accompaniment of a shrill "All Aboard." The train quietly slipped out of the big station with only the noise of closing vestibule doors. Returning to my drawing- room, I re-counted my bags and rug rolls for the one hundredth time, gave a frantic look into my hand bag for my railroad tickets, experienced a sense of relief that after all I had not lost them, and forthwith settled myself with a comfortable sense of realization that I was on my way across land and sea into the setting sun. At Chicago I fairly fell into R's arms as he met me at the station platform. At the Blackstone we found many notes and lovely flowers of welcome. The two days that followed were happily spent in lovable, friendly Chicago, with all its inevitable grime and smoke, for in those circumstances the warmth and affection showered upon us by our old and tried friends out-weighs any drawbacks, be they ever so disagree- able. Dear Amy and Harry saw us to the westbound train, favoring us with useful hints about Japan as we sped through the crowded streets to the station. We were indeed fortunate to get such good information NEW YORK TO PEKING u from such experienced travellers as our friends. Our small baggage had meanwhile been safely stowed in our drawing-room on the Overland Limited, although the term small baggage is certainly a misnomer when it is supposed to include the "man eater," my big week-end bag. But there it was, peacefully monopolizing one end of the room while the balance of the available space was filled with offerings from our friends, books, candy, fruit and flowers. Our starting off on a world-ramble is becoming such an old story one would think our dear ones would tire of making a ceremony of it. It flatters us immensely, and inwardly and outwardly we bless them! We settle ourselves for the three days and three nights journey across the continent, relaxing almost automatically and drawing a long breath, the first in weeks, what with the rush of preparation, of starting off, and in the tying of the many loose ends of the in- numerable ties we had made for ourselves. Our train is one of two sections, the King and Queen of Belgium being passengers on the other section. Despite the rainy, cold weather, the station platforms are crowded with people whose eagerness to see "Their Highnesses" is not dampened by drizzle, or chilled by icy blasts. Who says democratic America does not care for royalty? Imagine their disappointment as they peer into our car windows to see the stately King and his gracious Queen, to visualize only a car full of plain United States folk. But they nevertheless laugh, joke and jostle, as all 12 NEW YORK TO PEKING good-natured American crowds are apt to do. Of course there were types, the "smarty" kind, the self-conscious youth with his bright colored necktie strutting about, while his eyes roamed towards the pretty girls; the "fresh paint" lads pushing one another off the platform or throwing a cap on the roof of the car; the giggling girls full of admiration for the boys in uniform; the tired mothers with their babies to show them a real live King and Queen, so that in after years, when royalty may be a very scarce element in our social structure, the fact will be proudly related that these rulers were actually seen in the flesh and blood; and of course there was the ever-present dog, always to be found where young America holds forth, getting lost only to be found, then to be scolded, kicked and cuffed, later to be spoiled with love and affection again. Station after station we find this same eager crowd waiting for the royal Belgian pair. School children, hundreds of them, bearing flags, dressed in their best, unruly to handle and the despair of their teachers, who impatiently clap their hands for concentrated attention, as their charges are invariably looking in any direction but that from which the royal train is supposed to come. Our porter, a coal black, simple, well-mannered African, expressed himself to R. as being glad that the King was not on his train. Upon being pressed for a reason he said in all seriousness: "Why boss, dis yere King can cut off a man's head anytime he feels like it!" R., with his insatiate fondness for reforming the whole NEW YORK TO PEKING 13 world, launched forth into a defense of much maligned, and in this case, greatly overestimated King Albert. It took some time to satisfactorily explain to the ivory headed darkey that kings in our day and generation had to obey laws as well as the common people, and it is not at all certain that Sambo was fully and definitely convinced. He was seen shaking his head as well as scratching it as he moved away to dust the window sills and the observation car chairs. 14 NEW YORK TO PEKING CHAPTER II ON THE second morning out of Chicago we opened our eyes upon a light blanket snow scene, the fleecy flakes still falling as we dashed across the state of Wyoming, making us realize that winter is fast ap- proaching. As we pass through little villages and towns we picture them during the dreary, long winter months, their homes covered to the eaves of the roofs with snow for weeks on end. What must be the point of view of these people, after such a season of isolation ? As our train dashes through these snow-covered tiny towns, which later in the year will become dust-covered spots on the horizon of the vast Western prairies, my eye often catches a fleeting glimpse of a faded Red Cross poster, or a service flag with its one or more stars hanging in cottage windows, and a feeling of brother- hood comes over me, for it was from thousands of just such little hamlets that many of our bravest lads were sent over-seas, high in hopes with truly wonderful standards, some to return with breasts covered with the the insignia of honors, but many too, now only a loving memory since the letter reached those far-a-way spots from a field hospital, giving the last words of some brave soldier taken down by an army nurse. Words that shall live forever in the heart of a mother or sweetheart, hav- NEW YORK TO PEKING 15 ing been burnt in with the first reading of the precious document, with the onrush of hot tears that are God- sent to ease and not break the heart. The Rockies are reached and passed, and with each hour comes the promise of spring, until we rush down from the mountain tops into the arms of sunny Cali- fornia; lovely California with orange trees in fruit, and great slopes and fields of yellow poppies that rival the lupin with their purple haze, covering the foot hills. We pinch ourselves to see if it is not all a dream, and that we are wide awake and not dreaming this golden dream! Ever and always the same thought comes, "Why does not every one live here in this narrow ledge of the Western coast of the United States, where the climate is the same twelve months a year never cold in winter, thanks to the mighty wall of mountains protecting it from the East never hot in summer, due to the same watch-dog mountains that imprison the cool air as it blows from the Japan Current. The Pacific Ocean, with its great fields of kelp floating in lovely purple and yellow patches on the sea, giving it the effect of Joseph's coat of many colors and simultan- eously reflecting the azure sky, is a perfect picture and one to set one dreaming for a life time." Leaving the overland train at Oakland mole, we em- barked on the huge ferry boat, and as the latter ap- proached San Francisco, we were reminded of New York with its high sky line, imparting a different im- pression nevertheless. On landing we thought it must 16 NEW YORK TO PEKING be some feast day, for the street corner stands were piled high with flowers that seemed like great banks of blossoms. You can here buy your arms full of flowers for twenty-five cents. Great tubs of violets, at a few cents a bunch, are waiting to be sent home or to a hospital to gladden some sick, tired, shut-in person. At one stand I counted twenty different kinds of blos- soms. Heliotrope and calla lilies are used for high hedges. Can you picture your backyard fence consisting of a wonderful wall of heliotrope or lilies? No wonder these Western folk have a bright, cheery viewpoint of life with such an outlook! NEfT YORK TO PEKING 77 CHAPTER III WE ARE not sorry our sailing date has been post- poned for two weeks due to the dock strikes, for it only means added play time in this summer land. Our heads were turned and our hearts gladdened by brother Ed and nephew Bill both bachelors wishing to come from the remote points of the Pacific Coast, to be with us while awaiting the departure of our ship. These two good chaps are doing everything to give us a jolly time, and are more than succeeding, what with planning din- ners on the beach and elsewhere, dancing, motoring and making excursions back into the hills where great red- wood trees with their giant trunks and limbs look down on us with their superior age and dignified bearing. At last our ship, the Korea Maru^ sailed, having been delayed in San Francisco sixteen days by a stevedore and longshoremen's strike. We had, after many post- ponements, begun to wonder if we ever should start on our long-planned, much discussed trip to the Far East. If the Longshoremen's Union had had anything to do with it, we should probably still be on our own soil. So when the last announced date, October 2yth, finally dawned, we were more than eager and ready to be off. Our cabin we found so full of evidences of our thoughtful friends that it was difficult to place our bags and steamer i8 NEW YORK TO PEKING trunks. Baskets of flowers as high as one's head, ham- pers of fruit, as only California can produce, candy of all kinds, books on every subject, and last but by no means least, a fat bundle of letters and telegrams that caused a lump in my throat, a veil of mist before my eyes, knowing how our dear ones had taken great pains to plan these pleasant things for us. Our "Big Four" lined the promenade deck rail as the huge liner slipped out to sea through the Golden Gate, giving us a picture of the city with its hills, the streets running straight up and over the tops like white ribbons in the sunlight. It was a gorgeous autumn day. The Twin Peaks stood guard over the city like loving parents watching their children the smaller hills, the latter fairly teeming with life. We turned our faces westward, and being tramps by instinct and at heart, we are all ex- pectant and anxious to know what the distant horizon holds in store for us. We go below to settle ourselves for a seventeen days voyage by unpacking our bags, taking stock of our gen- erous supply of fruit and other eatables most of which we consign to the ship's refrigerator to enjoy their fresh- ness later on and arrange ourselves snug and "comfy," as we understand that term, and now that we are really on our way on this important leg of our big trip, I be- think myself of the dear ones left behind, of the many kindnesses they have showered upon me, and I utter a silent prayer that they will not forget me as my absence of days grows into weeks and the weeks into months. NEW YORK TO PEKING 79 Our cabin boy is a Chinese named Tom Tom, a big North China specimen, who seemingly looks down upon me and all my numerous trappings with which my state- room is filled, and I can scarcely blame him. We Ameri- cans seem to think we can find happiness by owning many things. When shall we learn that true happiness comes from within, and that our food, clothing and other physical comforts mean nothing if our hearts and minds are not at peace. It is difficult to believe it is October and not June for, as I write, a soft light breeze comes through the open port, balmy indeed. In a few days time the deck swim- ming tank will be erected, where the hardy swimming enthusiast dives and cavorts to his heart's content. I think him brave, surely, for I cannot avoid reflecting what would happen if a big wave were to submerge the tank and wash all out to sea! Having this in my mind I shun the tank, contenting myself with a dip in my own little tub of sea water. We are all interested in a land bird foolish enough to get into the rigging, doubtless while in port, forgetting to get off until too late to make shore. After four day's time it was still with us, sharing the food and water pro- vided for two dogs having their kennels on the after deck. We all hold our breaths when this brave, interest- ing feathered stowaway takes its daily exercise by flying out over the waves and back again into the rigging. I am wondering what thrilling story it will tell if lucky enough to reach the shores of one of the Hawaiian islands. 20 NEW YORK TO PEKING CHAPTER IV I WAS awakened early the morning of our landing at Honolulu by the sailors making fast the rope-ladder for the use of the pilot, the port doctor and customs in- spectors, as they board our good ship for the usual for- malities on an occasion of this kind. We were still out at sea. I put on a bath robe, a long coat and slippers and stepped out on deck. The dawn was breaking and long fingers of light were stretching out in a loving manner over the heavens, replacing the stars with the golden light of the coming sun. There was still enough shadow in spots to allow the stars to look upon the Great Show which is so old and yet so beautifully fresh and young the dawn of a new day. While I watched the lights and shadows upon the waves, the sun came up out of the distant East, making of our ship's wake a golden thread in the deep green expanse of ocean. The ship's bow was pointed to a tiny speck on the horizon that grew and grew under the occult power of the dawn. We were quietly rolling along toward the island of Oahu. Diamond Head greeted me in all his great peace as he stands watch over the Island, welcoming me with sol- emn dignity. Now I could see a line of white surf break- ing far out from shore, then rolling in upon the beach where stately pineapple palms stretched themselves like NEW YORK TO PEKING 21 giant spiders against the sky line. Spread before me was a picture that seemed to have come out of a story book, reminding me in fact of Robinson Crusoe. I fancied I could see his hut far up under the trees, and surely could that be he with his big umbrella and his faithful man Friday? No, my dream Robinson Crusoe has turned into a Chinese deck steward asking if "Missie would like tea on deck?" Rudely awakened from my day dreams, now hanging in space, I gave a fleeting glance over my shoulder down the long empty deck and out upon the nearing land, where I saw the Island like a jewel while the sun was giving it its full blessing. It was vibrating with light and warmth in the promise of another day. Then recalling my very informal garb, I precipitately dashed into my cabin and bath, to start the day as only a civilized human should. In a few hours we were alongside a very business-like wharf, being made fast while Hawaiian voices were singing their sweet plaintive songs of half tones and minor keys, touching the heart as no other native songs can, and bringing to the surface forgotten days when life was young and when we saw it only through rose- colored glasses. 22 NEW YORK TO PEKING CHAPTER VI \ FEW good island friends met us, covering our necks .ZjL with flower lais, taking possession of us for the day. A lovely motor trip, a visit to the Aquarium, lunch- eon at the Club, tea at the home of our hospitable guides, and safely delivered back to our ship in ample time of her departure. Such was the wonderful day at Honolulu. Our cabins had again been rilled with flowers and joy of joys a wonderful cocoanut cake made with fresh cocoanut and tasting as no other cake ever tasted, was among the gifts from much traveled Amy and Harry, who had cabled their instructions so successfully. I hate to think of the pounds this delicious pastry is sure to put on me, for I am simply weak-minded when it comes to such goodies. We watched native boys diving for pennies, admiring their skill and marveling at their courage, for there were rumors of sharks, bold enough to come into the harbor for fresh dark meat. The day was going. The same beautiful day I had seen come into being seemingly but a few hours before. The ship slowly steamed out of the narrow channel and set her course for Japan. Once again I looked towards Diamond Head and this time received a sleepy good NEW YORK TO PEKING 23 night from this watching sentinel, with an added "bon voyage" from the blinking lighthouse. I turned in to my cabin fatigued, but conscious of having enjoyed a happy day. A big moon now streamed through the port as it flitted in and out of the fleecy clouds, making the gently rolling sea a veritable shimmer of silver. I had stoutly maintained to the BifFys and R. that I plainly saw phos- phorescent lights, but was not only laughed at for my vivid imagination, but lengthy arguments were intro- duced to prove conclusively that my sleepy eyes de- ceived me. What is it about a woman convinced against her will? Well, I am that particular woman and still be- lieve the sea was alive with phosphorescent lights. Never shall I cease congratulating ourselves that we are blessed with such heavenly weather at sea this time of the year (early November). The sun shines so bright and sheds delicious warmth, the ocean is extremely well- behaved, like a mountain lake, almost reflecting the big featherbed effect clouds that nose about like sleepy puppies in the deep blue heavens. Our party of four good pals spend much time on deck, giving particular attention to the reading of guide books on the various countries we have planned to visit, con- sequently we are so mixed we finally do not know one country from another, having difficulty to visualize the wonders of each, before we have actually seen them. Reports as to the Chinese boycott of Japan and of Korea's dissatisfaction with Japanese rule, reach us in probably exaggerated form; nevertheless, we cannot 24 NEW YORK TO PEKING help wondering if we shall not be witnesses of some of the manifestations of these racial disputes, as the feeling appears to be very strong on both sides. Our ship's list of passengers contains many Japanese, most of whom are returning students from educational institutions in the United States of America and England respectively. Books on socialism, efficiency and similar topics engaged the attention of most of them. Brief conversations with them convinced one that there was little of importance transpiring in our country or in England, that made for national growth and advancement, that escaped their observation. The Japanese suggest the Germans every thought, every act for themselves and their nation. Aboard our ship a little eighteen months old kiddie has been taught to stand at attention and cry out "Banzai" the national salute to his Emperor and Country. This round-faced, slant-eyed baby is a pure product of Japan, without a drop of strange blood in his veins, and a living symbol of this nation's conceit and what they are striving to become. Baron Goto, sometimes termed the "mad dog of Japan," is a shipmate but appears very peaceful and in- offensive. We sat together the other evening and he never bit me watching the native crew going through their wrestling bouts, a very ceremonious proceeding in Japan. The participants did well and appeared like fine bronze figures, sitting in a true circle around the ring awaiting their turn to contest. Overhead was a canopy of purple and yellow, with suspended bags of salt. As the NEW YORK TO PEKING 25 wrestlers met in the centre of the ring to receive instruc- tions, they would presently turn toward a salt bag, ex- tract one pinch for their tongues and another pinch to be thrown over the left shoulder for luck, and then they would go at it not without being directly under the centre of the canopy, however, from which was hanging a fancy paper design, acting no doubt as a good luck charm. Immediately preceding each match, a very im- pressive personage with a high black hat and bright kimono, carrying a fan, would announce the names of the contestants, their records, etc. All this in sing-song blank verse that put you quite in the spirit of the middle ages and ancient Japan. I rather like these little bronze men who smile so easily, take to games like ducks to water, and seem like children in the playing of them. Baron acted throughout this interesting performance like a European or American, never seeming to lose his self-control, while the other Japanese gentlemen present gave vent to their excited emotions by throwing money into the arena, loudly shouting approval or derision as the contest proceeded. It was an interesting evening's entertainment. R. has been made chairman of the finance committee for deck sports which involves taking up a subscription among the passengers for funds to purchase inexpensive articles for prizes (to be bought from the ship's barber) and the remaining fund to go to the fund for Japanese seamen. Baron Goto was asked to head the list of sub- scribers and he set so good an example that other gener- 26 NEW YORK TO PEKING ous givers followed, with the result that $550.00 was subscribed, an unusually large sum, and one that estab- lished the high record for the Korea Maru. The sports were varied and amusing, young and old, male and fe- male and all races participating. They were confined, as a matter of course, to first cabin passengers. Musical chairs, cock fights, thread-the-needle, light the cigarette, sack races and other innumerable events were arranged and carried out to the amusement of the on-lookers, of whom there were many. Thus several hours of each afternoon for the elapsed time between Honolulu and Yokohama were pleasantly spent, culminating in the ceremony of awarding prizes, combined with a special dinner given to the ship's company by its commander, at which fancy dress was the costume. In anticipation of this latter event for days one ransacked one's mind as to what would constitute a proper fancy dress, fol- lowed by ransacking one's luggage for inspiration. It is truly wonderful what human ingenuity will design in matters of this kind and under circumstances such as I have described, for the Captain's dinner was a huge success in the number, variety and merit of the cos- tumes worn. Then and there, most of us vowed never to cross the Pacific without being equipped with a fancy dress garb in our roll of rugs. The dinner was extra spe- cial, the awarding speeches very fitting, and finally all American voices joined in the "Star Spangled Banner" quite as lustily, even if the words were not so plainly enunciated, as when the Japanese held forth with their NEW YORK TO PEKING 27 national anthem, or the Britishers with "God Save the King." This was followed by dancing on deck, until a squall and a bit of rough sea transferred the tripping into the salon and passage ways. 28 NEW YORK TO PEKING CHAPTER VI TOMORROW we cross the line of the i Both meridian and besides putting our time one-half hour ahead of that prevailing today, we shall also have the unique sensation of having lost a whole day, in other words we go from Wednesday to Friday. This particular spot is wasteful of time for the west-bound voyager, but thrifty of the same article for the east-bound. When we return we shall get back that day by having two Wednesdays or Thursdays, as the case may be. Efforts to explain this matter to me have failed dismally, so I must accept it as a proper fact. I am, nevertheless, reminded of my good old darkey cook in Virginia, who listened atten- tively when I explained the putting ahead of our clocks when the daylight saving law went into effect during the war days. The reasons for it were put in as simple language as I could command. Old Lizzie obediently acquiesced in what she was told to do, but nevertheless relieved her mind with: "Why bless my soul, Miss Blanche, that man in Washington must think himself Jesus Christ, to think he can make de sun come up earlier!" It does not seem possible that we are on the vast Pa- cific, for it is truly like a mill pond. Nevertheless we are hearing all kinds of stories that "the worst is yet to NEW YORK TO PEKING 2 9 come," and that turbulent seas and strong winds are to be encountered before Japan's shores heave in sight. It is a comforting thought to know that only two days more are ahead of us. At the "movies" last night Lady Peale, sitting directly in front, was overheard relating a most thrilling story to her companion, delivered with an air of assurance, to the effect that it was indeed a bad omen that our big ship was listing to port, that a number of rats had been seen on deck, that the glass was falling, and that all this portended a horrible night with fearful consequences. Immediately we pictured to ourselves all the phases of a disaster at sea, even saw ourselves taking to the life boats, wondering if my bath robe over my night dress would be adequately warm. How a foolish tongue is apt to form bad impressions. It only tends to show how we should guard every uttered word, or even a very thought for the creation of a thought vibration is surely a big responsibility, as there is no telling how it may influence you or your neighbor. As I look skyward through the four wires extending from the masthead, and connecting with the wireless instrument below a little bit of a piece of mechanism and realize that messages come to it out of that clear blue atmosphere, the innocent looking heavens, I stand in awe, knowing and appreciating that thoughts are things, that man is fast learning his lesson, bringing it down into practical everyday life. How few there are who, looking at this scientifically constructed ma- chine on board our ship, that know and feel it is jo NEW YORK TO PEKING the nearest thing to the spiritual side of life that we encounter. On this lovely Sunday morning I had found a dear little corner on the bridge deck, on the leeward side and behind the stowed life boats. Here I could unob- structedly see the sea and watch the ship turn over great furrows in the deep expanse of blue water. From a deck below the strains of a hymn would come to me, then in- distinct tones of the sermon being delivered by the mis- sionary divine who was officiating at service doubtless preaching a good lesson. All at once the wireless ticked out a message, probably from the States and coming such a distance, undoubtedly of much importance. In- voluntarily I was wrapped in contemplation of how very human and spiritual it was, and how man had actually tapped the God thought in the development of this science. But how few, how very few there were that Sunday morning to allow their thought prayers to run up to God through these four little wires, through the medium of the brightly polished instrument, or how few realized that we have placed our feet on the first step of the ladder to enable us to reach the goal whence God and our souls will be made manifest to us through Love and knowledge, rather than by fear and super- stition. And, as I said before, we must curb our thougths and tongues, as the four wires and brightly polished wires in the other fellow's mind may get our impres- sions, and we must see that our messages are worth remembering, or fit for reproduction. NEW YORK TO PEKING 31 To Lady Peale I am indebted for a wakeful night followed by a headache. The Korea Maru did not turn bottom side up, and the rats are still on board for I saw one a moment ago out of the corner of my eye, neither was my bath robe used to cover my robe de nuity as I embarked in the much dreaded life boat. So who denies that thoughts are things? If I put this ques- tion to our four business-like looking wires, I am sure they will want to tick back, "Not I." We crowed too soon about our perfectly marvelous crossing, for the last day out punished us for boasting. After the passengers had their dance last night, Korea Maru tried her hand, or whatever else she uses, at a bit of dancing herself and I should say with complete success. The striking into the Japan current, or "black stream," is usually attended with more or less excite- ment of this kind, but it was over in due time and then we were met by the port pilot to conduct us into beauti- ful Yokohama harbor. The doctor came from quaran- tine station to inspect us and make certain we were not smuggling the plague or other dreadful things into the land of the Rising Sun. Then came the passport in- spectors, with true oriental inquisitiveness as to why people with good homes want to leave them all this time our ship was being warped into her wharf what- ever that may mean. 32 NEW YORK TO PEKING CHAPTER VII MRS. BIFFY, who surely has second sight and the keenest human sense of observation of any living mortal, stood at the promenade rail looking out upon hundreds of people who lined the pier at which we were to be docked. Suddenly she came to me and said, "I do believe I see Billy K." Said I, "But how in the world did you ever know Billy K?" "I don't know him I only have an intuition that the big handsome chap is your friend, and that he has been craning his neck for the past quarter of an hour to see you." Frantic salutations between ourselves and Billie K. were established at once, long-distance introductions of our friends, the Biffys, effected, and then we awaited with much impa- tience our actually accomplished arrival on Japanese soil. Billie K. extended a warm welcome indeed, par- ticularly appreciated as the big-hearted soul had spent hours on the chilly pier awaiting the ship's arrival. I think Mrs. Biffy and I were a bit disappointed to find a motor car awaiting us, thanks to Billie K.'s fore- sight, for we had imagined ourselves being transported to our hotel in rickshaws that were lined up expectantly, like Grandpa go-carts. It turned out later that it was fortunate for us to have had the luxurious Fierce-Arrow, for the rooms the Grand Hotel had agreed to reserve for NEW YORK TO PEKING 33 us were not available, nor was there anything besides a billiard table on which to lay our weary heads to be had, hence we dashed about from hotel to hotel, well in advance of the aforesaid Grandpa go-carts, and se- cured a resting place at the Oriental Palace Hotel, where we soon ate our first tiffin in the East. A few hours later found us having tea with our hospitable friends, the Paul M.'s, enjoying the touch of a real home, and adoring the big hearted hostess behind her tea tray, who took it as a matter of course that a dozen people should happen in quite informally to sip the cup that cheers and discuss world topics, for these people must of necessity be international, and not local or pro- vincial. It was an interesting phase of things to observe, how the Western nations fraternize when they abide in the far East. Our Ambassador, Mr. Roland Morris, bade us to an informal tiffin at the Embassy in Tokyo, upon present- ing our letters of introduction to him. He asked us if he could serve us in any possible way, and we broadly hinted that the Emperor's Chrysanthemum Garden Party would be a function we should like to attend, could he secure invitations for our party? Alas! and alack! the foreign embassies are limited as to the num- ber of invitations they can command, and the lists had not only been filled a few days ago, but the time for applying for privileges had expired, and moreover the Ambassador had promised not to ask for any unusual courtesies, having been granted an exceptional favor at 34 NEW YORK TO PEKING the previous Garden Party; so it looked mighty unfav- orable for us until the Ambassador volunteered to see what he could do, saying that as we were all so closely associated in American Red Cross work during the trying times of 1917-18, the least he could do would be to draw upon his resources for providing us with the de- sired "commands" to appear at the Garden Party. A few days later he informed us that all had been ar- ranged, to our satisfaction. It seems he had recalled that R. had assisted in the entertainment of Prince Tokugawa, when the latter visited Washington in charge of a Japanese Red Cross mission at any rate the impressive invitations were forthcoming, and we are delighted at the prospect of attending. Uppermost in the minds of Mrs. Biffy and myself is the question what to wear? Our men have gone to local Chinese tailors for their long frock coats, as no other garment would be tolerated. Thank heaven, they have brought their own top hats of recent vintage, for one hates to think what they might get if they undertook to provide themselves here; so in due time we are off to see and meet the Imperial family of this little, but powerful island. The Garden Party in the autumn is the celebration of the Chrysanthemum, corresponding to the Cherry Blossom Garden Party in the Springtime. Of our partic- ular Garden Party I will speak later. NEW YORK TO PEKING CHAPTER VIII I HAVE engaged an "amah," and as she sits on the floor in her gaily colored kimonos, darning my ugly black stockings, what do you suppose she thinks of me, surrounded by so many seemingly unnecessary things. For you certainly are impressed with the little it takes in the East to make the natives happy. Despite the fact that both Japanese men and women put on one silk kimono on top of the other, not unlike a head of lettuce, the dark and heavy ones on the outside, the dainty col- orful ones next to their bodies the garb presents a neat and simple effect. It is to be deplored that the foreign style of dressing is replacing the picturesque costumes of old Japan, and not so much because of the desire to imitate the Americans and Europeans, but it has ac- tually resolved itself into an economic question. The cost of a man's suit of clothes, such as our own men wear, is about one quarter that of the outfit worn by the native Japanese. Women's clothes are proportionate in value. Both have reference to the clothes worn by the wealthier classes. It took but a few minutes to make up our minds to take a run up into the mountains, reluctant as we were to quit Yokohama, where our good friends, the K.'s and M.'s, were killing us with hospitality, sowed in lavish j6 NEW YORK TO PEKING abundance. But our Japan stay was limited, and it behooved us to be on our way. A two and a half hour railway ride through a perfectly charming ag- ricultural country unfolded to our eyes a most beau- tifully cultivated land, intensively tilled, mostly by women with babies on their backs, standing knee deep in the water and mud of the rice fields. Others engaged in harvesting the bountiful crop were pulling large armfuls of rice straw through quaint combs, per- forming by skillful, industrious hands what our modern machinery at home would do in a fraction of the time. But human energy is still inexpensive in Japan! The price of such highly successful fertilization of the limitless fields of Japan for every inch of it seems to be cultivated is the "smell of Japan." It is ever-pres- ent, particularly in the country, although even the big cities are by no means free from it. We early made a vow never to eat anything grown above ground, that had not been cooked. At a little station, Kozu, we again had a glimpse of the sea, but upon taking the waiting motor, we turned our backs upon it and struck into the mountains. The guide books mention this point as one promising a sight of the sacred Fujiyama, but on this particular mid-day, he failed to show. Fuji and I have only met once notwithstanding that this is my second visit to Japan and that was two days ago in Yokohama. The clouds cleared for an hour, and I revelled in the sight of this truly beautiful peak, majestic beyond all words. NEW YORK TO PEKING jj A winding road, substantially constructed, led us to the Fujiya Hotel at Miyanoshita, an exceedingly pretty spot accentuated by the blazing red maples that artisti- cally adorned the hillside on every hand. Our snorting motor car finally came to a halt at the door of the hotel, where a smiling attendant opened our mud-covered cur- tains and helped us to alight. We ascended a broad staircase with its red lacquer railing into a bright sun glass parlor, furnished with homey things and contain- ing a huge cage of birds, singing their very hearts out. Our rooms are delightfully cozy, and overlook the hand- some grounds as well as some adjacent cottages or bun- galows. Our view covers a stretch of miles down the valley whence our lovely ride had taken us, and the mountain sides are thickly covered with red and yellow maples. Meanwhile a mountain storm had set in, and oh! how it rained! Nothing daunted, we put on our rain coats and started out to see the native village that nestled just be- low us. A winding well-kept street of shops, little shops, each quite like the other in looks and size, but differing in the articles offered for sale. Wooden toys seemed to predominate, particularly trick toys, followed by an as- sortment of hair ornaments, beads, carvings and the like. A large establishment quite outshone all these les- ser ones, creditable in a city of size, maintained by Na- kada Brothers, whose stock of beautiful curios, brass, lacquer, porcelain and bronze, quite took our breath away. Here we purchased two adorable temple lamps 38 NEW YORK TO PEKING (to use as electric lights) for our Virginia home, also some ancient temple tassels and cords of exquisite pink. Back we trudged to the hotel through mud and water to avail ourselves of a cheery cup of tea at the fire side of our comfortable quarters, which quite blocked the cold wind and rain that was whipping and lashing the little plum and cedar trees on the terrace below. Never- theless our thoughts of sympathy were with these na- tive hill people we had just left, whom we admire for their sturdiness and constant good nature. How can they derive sufficient comfort in those flimsy buildings, with their paper partitions, windows and doors? And still they smile, while we depend upon a heated room, a cup of tea, and later the stimulating cocktail before dinner, to help us forget that there is a howling moun- tain storm without. NEW YORK TO PEKING 39 CHAPTER IX IN THE morning when I rang for a fresh fire, a smiling little maid responded (coming in without knocking) and soon had the room dancing with firelight. I watched the fantastic shadows on the ceiling, reflecting her graceful kimono arms adjusting the fenders, and arrang- ing the fireplace so it was neat and spotless. Presently she reappeared with a red lacquer tray covered with shining linen cloth, tasteful blue and white porcelain, and a breakfast fit for a queen. How lazy and mammoth I feel as this dainty, diminutive specimen of humanity places it before me. The coffee steaming hot, the toast crisp and fresh, and a bit of fish which I am sure swam direct from stream to kitchen, with an urgent request to be cooked and served. Today the sun is shining gloriously, and it is difficult to believe it has not constantly been shining. Its warmth fills our soul with the joy of living. We planned an early breakfast, for our masculine partners are leaving us shortly after midday for a brief absence, returning to Yokohama to attend a dinner of the American-Japan Society. So after a trip to the telegraph office to dis- patch a wire to Ambassador Morris, acknowledging with thanks the arrangement for our Garden Party in- vitations, we set off for a long hike, Frances (Mrs. Biffy) 40 NEW YORK TO PEKING having posted herself from the Japanese-speaking hotel porter as to the course to be steered. Before going two miles we were hopelessly lost and retracing our steps, Frances soon redeemed herself by pointing with great glee to a sign in Japanese characters in the direction of a hilltop, whence we obtained a most magnificent view of Fuji, simultaneously with a view of the sea. One cannot help being impressed with the orderliness of these little people. Their well kept forests, substan- tially constructed roads, protected artistic waterfalls everything but their children's noses they seem to rival the waterfalls in running; it is a pity that force cannot be employed in some way, as they have controlled water power! Dear old Fuji was majestic and as his snow-capped peak burst upon our view, it quite took our breath away. He seems so wise and grand, and at the same time, so dignified and cold. His sides glistened in the sunlight, revealing the thickly grown timber line. No wonder he bears the name of sacred mountain, for I am sure you can get a holy inspiration as you stand and gaze at his wise old head and look to your very heart's content, ere coming down to earth again to click your camera shutter at him, knowing full well all the time, that the photograph you will get will not even give you the smallest idea of the beauty and grandeur of the scene. We kept on our climb, eventually reaching the sum- mit. There the sea again burst upon our view. How per- fectly lovely it all was, the shore line gracefully curved NEW YORK TO PEKING 41 in horseshoe fashion, extending as far as the eye could reach, the placid sea all aglow. Little fishing villages for miles and miles along the coast looked like tiny specks, while the numberless fishing craft dotting the huge bay appeared like lily petals in a pond. Forestration is a successful science as practiced in Ja- pan. Trees are replanted every twenty years, and the cutting of matured timber is carried on' with intelligent understanding. Such a wise system compared with our own wasteful cutting whenever and wherever com- mercial fancy dictates, with never a thought for the generations to follow. Speaking of these little tracts of timber, grown in twenty year cycles, a strange thing happened. R. and I were together making this charming climb to Fuji-view, and my fur boa becoming burden- some, R. asked to carry it for me. Upon reaching the end of the climb the boa was missing. The thought in- stantly flashed across my mind, "Don't worry, you will find it on the way home under the trees," (a picture of which likewise was reflected in my mind). It should be explained that most of the trail led through dense underbrush, only here and there it was bordered by the growing pines. Sure enough, upon coming to a clump of trees, marking a turn in the trail-path, there lay the missing fur boa, illustrating the correctness, at times, of our subconscious mind. Were it not so commonplace, one might feel "spooky" about such happenings. Our men sidepartners have left us for a day, and we girls are preparing for a "lone dinner," wondering how 42 NEW YORK TO PEKING we can manage a cocktail without resorting to under- hand methods, so we decide upon an open and above board play, simplying ordering it in the lounge-room and consuming it as indifferently as it is possible for us to do so. Then we dined in solitary grandeur. Tomorrow is the date fixed for the arrival of the first mail from home, and heaven help all my near and dear ones if you are not fully and appropriately represented. 43 CHAPTER X "XJOVEMBER 21, 1919, the day of the Emperor's -L i Garden Party. The elements were neither kind nor considerate, for it rained and then it rained some more. Specific instructions, accompanying the invitations, prescribed the dress we women in afternoon frocks, the men in long coats and top hats so we had no alter- native but to obey. Hip boots, it seemed to me, would have been more fitting. Our staying in Yokohama necessitated a ride to Tokyo, 1 8 miles away, and upon arrival we packed our- selves in an automobile of very restricted dimensions, our overdressed husbands managing their shiny tiles with considerable difficulty. We stopped at the U. S. Embassy for our cards of admission to the Imperial grounds, and soon after presented them at an imposing gate, to reach which we crossed the double-moated palace wall-enclosure. The general aspect of the Em- peror's abode is quite like any well-maintained Euro- pean monarch's palace, but the grounds differ in that the art of the Japanese shines prominently, converting the landscape into a scene that is at once a delight and com- fort to the eye. After wending our way through beauti- ful paths, mingling with hundreds of other guests of every nationality, guided by liveried lackeys whose gor- 44 NEW YORK TO PEKING geous raiment was drooping with soddenness, we came to the exhibition tents where the Chrysanthemum was King. Words fail me to describe this magnificent dis- play of horticulture, developed to the highest degree un- der imperial authority and direction, and here sub- jected to the public gaze or such of the public for- tunate enough to be bidden a privilege we deeply ap- preciated. I shall never forget the single plant of per- fectly huge dimensions, successfully growing six differ- ent varieties all exquisite Chrysanthemums. Presently we were directed to a spacious tent where gold-laced attaches from the foreign embassies and lega- tions, dainty Japanese ladies, somber Japanese, Euro- pean and American gentlemen and a few of our own sex and kind had preceded to refresh ourselves with tea, cakes, sake wine, etc. Obviously the Emperor and Empress were not pres- ent or in evidence. They never appear in case it rains, for they simply will not assume the risk of spoiling their clothes French frocks in the case of the Empress and her ladies-in-waiting. It is a marvel, not understandable to the Western mind, why these ladies insist upon wear- ing French models when their own finery not only be- comes them better, but most naturally pleases the eye more. From the Garden Party we betook ourselves to the Russian embassy by invitation, to hear our friend and former co-worker in the American Red Cross, Dr. Ru- dolf Teusler, give an illustrated talk on Siberia. In spite NEW YORK TO PEKING 45 of the fall of imperialistic Russia, its embassies and lega- tions are still being maintained in most of the world's capitals. The Tokyo embassy and Peking legation are financed, I understand, by the indemnity China is still paying Russia, on account of the Boxer Rebellion. Mr. Krupensky, the Russian Ambassador to Japan, welcomed us most cordially, and promptly served us Russian tea in a dainty old China porcelain cup. His spacious ballroom was arranged for the entertainment to which we had been bidden, and it did not take long to fill it with a gathering of representative Americans, British, French, Russians, and a sprinkling of other al- lied nations. We recognized a number of our friends who had been at the Imperial Garden Party. Dr. Teusler had spent practically fifteen months in Siberia, in charge of the vast work of relief undertaken by the American Red Cross. He directed a staff of over six hundred people, associated with him in this most difficult of all war-relief work, and he had the handling of over fifteen millions of dollars during that time. The severity of the climate, the enormous distances to be covered (it required two weeks constant railroad travel with his special train to move between the extreme points of the territory assigned to him) and the short- age, or in many instances the non-existence of supplies and talent, made the undertaking of doing the number- less things for the relief of the sick and wounded and of the needy refugees, a task from which the ordinary man or woman would shrink in sheer despair. 46 NEW YORK TO PEKING The dread typhus is the most formidable enemy to fight, particularly when the facilities for caring for the patients are few, far-between, and at best inadequate in size, equipment or in medical talent. The heart-breaking stories of the starving touched hearts of stone, if there were any in that audience, which I doubt. Transporting wounded and the sick, piled literally like cord wood, and on arrival sorting the living from the dead how long dead it was impossible to say. He told of the brave nur- ses, saints indeed, the frail little beings with courage and spirit of a giant, doing heroic things each hour of every busy day, until we all felt like low-down slackers. Re- verting to a pleasanter vein, he told of the many young girl refugees, ranging between fourteen and eighteen years of age, who apparently missed the pretty things of life, such as bits of lace and ribbon, the lack of which really undermined their morals. In fact they were rapidly reaching the point of not caring what would happen next! In some cases they had actually used different colored papers in their hair to satisfy a girl's natural desire to look as pretty as possible. The next day a member of our party sent a quantity of rib- bon and lace to the Red Cross in Siberia that these girls might gratify their womanly traits, indirectly helping to make good mothers of them for the future genera- tions. The excitement of the war now being over, the Am- erican Red Cross, and similar relief agencies, find it hard to maintain enthusiasm among those who are de- 41 pended upon as workers. It is all too manifest that we women of the world, having given up our feverish knitting and sewing, do not realize that millions of hu- man souls are still feeling the lack of warm clothing and the other blessed comforts heretofore supplied by that biggest Mother of them all the Red Cross. What a pity this has come to pass, for we were nearer the spirit of brotherly love than at any time since the world be- gan. Every woman in the land was working at top speed over sweater, sock, or other garment, to clothe the needy and unfortunate, possessed of that love of service in her heart that did more to help win the war than any other living force. It helped spiritually to win the battle that was raging between right and wrong, and it was fought out on a higher plane than the physical one, the final outcome of the latter being only the shad- ow of the great issue actually involved. After a full and interesting day our hotel quarters seemed very "comfy" and our good warm beds a joy. NEW YORK TO PEKING CHAPTER XI r I ^HE dear "stay-at-homes" did not disappoint, for _L letters, lovely letters, arrived in the last mail. Some were written while we still lingered, unintention- ally, on U. S. soil, but nevertheless these were tidings from the loved ones and, after all, that is the principal thing. I am still at Miyanoshita awaiting the return of R., but Biffy has just arrived and reports that R.'s cold was such that he sensibly followed medical advice and remained in Yokohama. Needless to say I took the first train back, which seemed all too slow in arriving. Found my boy ever so much better than my anxious state of mind imagined, and again convinced myself that one worries far more over the things that do not happen than those which actually occur. The Biffys were so good and kind to me, trying to ease my distress and heartache bless them for the effort. R. will be himself again in a few days time. Our good Yokohama friends hereabouts have quite turned our heads with their lavish attentions. Every tiffin, tea and dinner spoken for, some of them several times over, for days ahead, and if we do not soon start on our trip to the interior, we will be unfit to undertake it. We will be too "soft," for we are living on the fat of the land but not butter! Nothing seems too much NEW YORK TO PEKING 49 trouble, and we seem constantly to be in the minds of our good friends. It gives us such a heart throb. Here is a little international incident. R.'s watch met with an accident, so he and Billie K. looked up a watch- maker. It developed that an old Frenchman was the most expert repair man in Yokohama, but he spoke neither English nor Japanese. Billie K. and my hus- band complained that their best French was unintelli- gible to the watchmaker. The latter's Japanese wife was called into the conference, so she translated the watchmaker's French into Japanese. Billie K. trans- lated her Japanese into English, with the result that the Swiss watch, owned by an American, was repaired by a Frenchman who received his orders through a Japanese. Cost of the job twelve and one-half cents in U. S. money. Let us hope the watch will now keep good time in any language. This particular November morning we were awak- ened by the violent rain whipping against our window panes with the force of terrific hail. The ships in Mis- sissippi Bay (Yokohama) looked like phantom ships, they seemed so lost in the mist and rain, blowing in in mighty gusts from the ocean. Our rooms oh, they were as damp and cold as ice boxes ! R. and I had heavy colds and had coughed most of the night. Life was not at high tide of happiness, and I was reminded of the day on the Mediterranean when my stewardess im- patiently remarked: "Why people with good homes ever leave them, is more than I can understand." The SO NEW YORK TO PEKING thought of balmy climes was uppermost in my mind, so when Frances and I indulged in day-dreams of travel- ing southwards, and spoke of India as our goal (having before us always the desire to go where it was cuddly warm) our considerate husbands not only failed to offer a single objection, but heartily chimed in in their readiness to start off as soon as a ship could be had to carry us no simple thing in these days of heavy travel, very few and mostly small steamers. Captain Watson of the U. S. Embassy dropped in for tiffin, and gave things a big push, and added fuel to the excited flame by arranging all our passport formalities for us, and adding that friends of his were sailing for India the following week, and space on the same ship was doubt- less still obtainable. Then we all talked at once and each added a feature to our program, so in short order we had determined to make a complete circuit of the globe, necessitating our skimming over Japan and barely touching a port or two in China all in our eagerness to get to the tropics in general, to India dur- ing the season in particular. Thank goodness, the hotel people contrived to put on more steam a few hours later, and life not only looked different to us, but there was not that overwhelming de- sire to go to India for the purpose of getting warm. To- night, therefore, we are actually fatigued from our elab- orate and wearisome planning of this "hot-air" trip, and we have settled down very obediently to our first and original plan of visiting Korea and China after seeing NEW YORK TO PEKING 51 Japan. R. and I return to the U. S. A. the latter part of January, the Biffys probably going on around the world. We have been beautifully entertained by our good Yokohama friends, and their kindness to us will ever be remembered. While we were victims of bad colds, May and Billie K. offered us the use of their attractive home and own private apartments, an offer we of course promptly declined but none the less greatly prized, as we know it would have meant their occupying small rooms in the rear. About the same time in walked Cap- tain Watson with word from Mrs. Watson to bring us bag and baggage to their home in Tokyo. Southern hos- pitality certainly has its equal with the Americans we know in Japan. We are the proud owners of an oil stove, which has converted my blue thoughts into bright sunny vision. Just that little added warmth did the trick, and life again seems quite worth while. Before that, with the rain splashing fiercely, our rooms damp and cold, both R. and I afflicted with hard colds, we are not to be be blamed for sending an S. O. S. across the street to our friends the Billie K.'s, in response to which he appeared with an oil stove, his capable servant softly gliding in after him with a supply of Standard Oil's best. We were like children, what with our finger tips getting back to normal warmth again, making the world over for us. So we got our tea basket, called in the Biffys, and with Billie K. we comprised a jolly after- noon tea party, Chiyo, my little Japanese maid, mak- 52 NEW YORK TO PEKING ing the tea and serving it beautifully, looking the part at every turn of her head. I wonder if everyone knows what a difference a good cup of tea makes in one's point of view ? NEW YORK TO PEKING 53 CHAPTER XII OUR night in room 31, Oriental Palace Hotel, Yoko- hama, facing the Bund, was a lively one. Never have I known such wind! Our bedroom with its tiny sitting-room faces east, and looks out upon the sea. It is like the crow's nest on the masthead of a steamer, receiving the full force of the storm, the gale blowing in one long glass window after another, all the while howling through our quarters, making sleep impossible. No sooner do we return to our beds from having secured one blown-open window, than it requires our combined efforts and strength to close another, and similarly we repeat this operation innumerable times. Our Christ- mas cards had been addressed and were ready for mail- ing by the next steamer. The wind played havoc with them, scattering them indiscriminately and broadcast, until our floors resembled a country road after a speed- ing motorist had run over a flock of white leghorns, leaving the air and surface completely filled with white particles. I am quite sure some of the cards went out of the window, preferring to take the air route to America, so if any of our dear playmates are "shy" a card, charge it up to the tempest that struck the Japan coast the last of November, 1919. We were awakened first by what we deemed to be a 54 NEW YORK TO PEKING boat in distress and it sounded like a siren horn. It sounded exactly as though it originated almost be- neath our windows, for you must know that we are near enough to the sea's edge to enable us to throw a biscuit into the briny deep from our windows. We were relieved to find that our large windows had blown open and the howling wind, penetrating every opening, was pitched in so shrill and high a key, that it resembled for all the world a signal of distress. We longed for morning and daylight, to see that the many ships in the harbor were safe. The sea was giving out a mighty roar. We could catch the flashes of the shore and harbor lighthouses. I found myself sending up a silent prayer that the lenses were bright and clean, so that the light would guide the mariner in steering his craft safely into port. The break of dawn came all too slowly, but we were at our windows, eagerly straining our eyes. The harbor was filled with ships, many doubt- less having sought refuge during the night, both big and little ones. One large ship had dragged her anchor and caused a bad mixup with other vessels, but the dis- entangling process was on, and in due time things read- justed themselves and all was safe and quiet again. The BifFys have been prevailed upon not to wait for us, victims of colds, but to start on the planned tour of "real" Japan, so they are off this morning for Kyoto, where we have promised to overtake them in due time. NEW YORK TO PEKING 55 CHAPTER XIII THANKSGIVING DAY, 1919. It is hard to realize that this is one of our national holidays, for of course Japan does not observe it. Business as usual, all shops open and only a few Americans walking home from church, apparently dressed in their "Sunday-go-to- meetings," convey the smallest idea to us of the holi- day. The U. S. Embassy at Tokyo was "at home" to- day for all U. S. citizens, but we are still indisposed with colds, so could not pay our respects as we would have liked to do. Instead, we inflicted ourselves upon the Billie K.'s for tea, and were urged to remain for Thanksgiving dinner, which we reluctantly declined. The K. roof is more than hospitable. We are across-the- street neighbors, our respective windows being sepa- rated only by the width of a narrow street. When the K.'s door bell rings, we rush to see who is calling. On their side, they can keep an eye on our doings. Their home is a square old stone building that comprised Billie K.'s office and lodgings in his bachelor days, some years ago. The present home is beautifully arranged, having big rooms, few in number, tastefully filled with art treasures from Japan and China. Practically every- thing is an object worthy of a museum. The cheery open fireplaces, May's attractive tea tray from which she 56 NEW YORK TO PEKING serves you most delicious tea, either a la European or a la Japanese, in those exquisite white porcelain cups (without handles) resting on silver lotus leaves, make an impression that is pleasantly stored up in our mem- ory. Cakes, perfectly wonderful cakes, as only her na- tive cook can bake them, are world-renowned, and everyone that comes to Japan that is anyone is so for- tunate as to have tea, tiffin or dinner with this attrac- tive couple. We talk long over our cups before a glowing fire, par- ticularly of the many lovely things for which Japan is famed. Our host may disappear to visit his "go-down" or storehouse, only to return shortly with some espe- cially attractive piece of ware, a marvelous print, a precious bronze, or a remarkable specimen of brocade, etc., to help round out his point in the conversation we have purposely brought around to the subject of Jap- anese art. It is so worth while and instructive to visit with the Billie K's. NEW YORK TO PEKING 57 CHAPTER XIV WE DEEM this a red-letter day, for we experienced our first formal ceremonial tea given us by Mr. and Mrs. Yamanaka, of Kyoto, a very great privilege to have been so favored, we think. Dressed in our very best, we were conveyed by rickshaws to the gate of the Yamanaka home. As we walked through the wonderful garden, the host came to the entrance of his attractive home to greet us. Servants removed our shoes and sub- stituted them with the soft temple slippers our guide, Akiyama, had previously tucked into our rickshaws. We entered a lovely reception room, with its soft cush- ioned matted floor, neither chairs nor tables being in evidence, as a matter of course. These small, low-ceil- ing rooms make us foreigners feel like Gulliver coming to call on midgets. We had to bend our heads while passing through doorways, and the ceiling sills allowed none too much space above. It was a matter of watch- ing your step, particularly in our case, walking in soft woolen slippers. I was reminded of my childhood days walking over a bed while engaged in a pillow fight. We seemed fairly to sink into the lovely padded floor cover- ings. Our host, a genial Japanese gentleman who speaks English fluently, seemed pleased to have us admire his 5 1 200? THE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFOKNIA LOS ANGELES DS Ortman - 508 New York to 077n Peking UC Southern Regional Library Fatilil A 000523719 3 DS 508 077n