SB 
 
 s 
 
 1910 
 I 
 
 THE CULTURE 
 
 OF TMB 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUM, 
 
 By W. WELLS, 
 
 3D? 311 
 
 REVISED EDITION, 
 
THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 IN MEMORY OF 
 
 Mr. & Mrs. Sydney B, Mitchell 
 
^WELLS' BOOK 
 
 ON THE 
 
 CULTURE OF THE 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUM 
 
 FOR 
 
 Exhibition, Decoration, 
 Cut Flower, and Market. 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS 
 
 WOODCUTS and PHOTOGRAPHS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 DIFFERENT BREAKS, INSECT PESTS, etc. 
 
 FOURTH EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED. 
 
 1910. 
 
 FIFTIETH THOUSAND. 
 
 WRITTEN AND PUBLISHED BY 
 
 VV. WELLS, CHRYSANTHEMUM NURSERIES, 
 MERSTPIAM, SURREY. 
 
 [COPYRIGHT.] 
 
W. WELLS. 
 
C 6'S'M/f 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The highly flattering reception accorded the last edition 
 of my book, both by the Press and the gre^t body of 
 chrysanthemum growers, has induced me to revise the 
 work and bring it up-to-date. Several chapters have been 
 re-written, and new chapters have been added; and I hope 
 that the lists of the best varieties, which have been care- 
 fully compiled, will be found instructive and valuable. The 
 subject of culturall treatment does not, however, allow of 
 much alteration; there is very little that can be added to 
 what I have set forth in former editions, but where it has 
 been possible to amplify the hints previously given I have 
 done so. 
 
 The popularity of chrysanthemums continues to increase 
 in all parts of the world. There seems to be no limit to 
 the number of varieties or to the diversity of colours. New 
 specimens are being constantly introduced. And nothing 
 can surpass in public favour the loveliness and graceful- 
 ness of the early flowering kinds. In a preface to the last 
 edition I said : 
 
 " Of late, newer chrysanthemums easy to cultivate have 
 received considerable attention, and great strides have been 
 made more particularly with the early flow r ering varieties. 
 This class of chrysanthemum has much to recommend it. 
 It may be raised by persons of the most limited means; it 
 makes a fine autumn display for beds and borders ; or it 
 may be grown in thousands for cut flowers for market. 
 The initial cost is not more than that of the usual 
 bedding-out plants, and therefore early flowering chrysan- 
 themums are within the reach of thousands who cannot 
 cultivate the large indoor varieties." 
 
 The foregoing observations are equally true of " earlies " 
 to-day. But considerable advance has been made within 
 the past few years, particularly as regards the introduc- 
 
 A 2 
 
 601 
 
IV THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 tion and distribution of early flowering singles. In 
 Chapter VI. will be found a description of the way I 
 succeeded ; n obtaining" these beautiful specimens from seed, 
 and since then they have become extremely popular for 
 decorative purposes. 
 
 The " Culture of the Chrysanthemum " is written chiefly 
 as a handbook for amateurs. These are an ever-increasing 
 army. The number of allotment gardens in a'll parts of 
 the country is tiuly astounding, and 1 am sometimes filled 
 with admiration by seeing the fine crops that the hard- 
 working, thrifty cultivators of these plots are able to raise. 
 There is a tendency for many allotment holders to develop 
 into market gardeners, and this is very noticeable in the 
 neighbourhood of fairly large towns. One of the best 
 schodls in which to learn land cultivation is the allotment 
 ground, where the knowledge and experience that 
 are absolutely essential to success may be gained. The 
 way 'these sturdy horticulturists have taken to the cultiva- 
 tion of early flowering chrysanthemums for pleasure or 
 profit or for both illustrates their readiness to try any- 
 thing in the nature of a novelty, and it also proves that 
 these varieties may be grown in perfection with the utmost 
 .ease in any soil that is capable of raising vegetables. I 
 may say, in passing, that among the hundreds of friendly 
 and encouraging letters which I receive in the course of 
 the year, I value none more highly than those which reach 
 me from my friends, the amateur gardeners, in all parts 
 of the kingdom. 
 
 In the chapter dealing with chrysanthemum growing in 
 the United States I have briefly described the methods 
 followed there. The climate -is so different from that 
 which we have in Great Britain that the conditions under 
 which gardeners are obliged to work bear small relation 
 to what we are accus>tomed to at home. For this reason 
 I have contented myself with merely outlining in general 
 terms the way in which chrysanthemums are cultivated 
 by the leading growers. Americans devote their energies 
 to producing the largest possible blooms, and in this 
 direction, aided by 4he climate, they are eminently success- 
 
INTRODUCTION. V 
 
 ful. Although, perhaps, it is a personal question, I may 
 be permitted to state as a matter of fact that the Wells- 
 Pockett varieties are those which are grown for exhibi- 
 tion more extensively by our American cousins than any 
 other sorts. The soi'l and climate of America suit them. 
 For this reason I am pleased to say that during a visit I 
 paid to America in November, 1909, I was able to make 
 arrangements with Mr. C. H. Totty, of Madison, New 
 Jersey, to act as my agent in the United States for all 
 the varieties of chrysanthemums distributed from 
 Merstham. 
 
 Mr. Totty is a man who combines great business capa- 
 city with sound, practical knowledge of horticulture. 
 Like most of the foremost growers whom I met in the 
 States, he is an Englishman, having been born in Shrop- 
 shire. He owns extensive nurseries at Madison, where 
 one may see the finest glass houses, the most modern ap- 
 pliances, and the latest labour-saving devices to be found 
 anywhere and that is saying a great deall when one is 
 speaking of America. The produce raised by Mr. Totty 
 finds a ready market in New York, about thirty miles 
 away. He has gone in very enthusiastically for chrysan- 
 themums, and has built up a reputation as a successful 
 grower, not only of commercial kinds, but also of exhibi- 
 tion varieties. A near neighbour of Mr. Totty is Mr. 
 W. Duckham, who manages the estate of Mrs. D. Willis 
 James, of Madison. Chrysanthemum lovers in America 
 are under a debt to Mr. Duckham, who, for years past, has 
 spared neither troubfle nor expense to introduce the latest 
 and best novelties. Some of the most popular varieties to 
 be seen at the principal exhibitions in the United States 
 at the present day have become known through Mr. 
 Duckham's enthusiasm. Like his friend, Mr. Totty, he first 
 saw the light in the Old Country, being a native of 
 Plymouth. He left England for America nearly twenty 
 years ago, and through his wide experience of gardening, 
 sound judgment, and go-ahead methods he occupies a 
 front-rank-place in the horticultural world of the States. 
 
 I have alluded to the great success of the Wells-Pockett 
 
vi THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 varieties of chrysanthemums in America, and, of course, 
 it is unnecessary to tell English readers of their popularity 
 at home. In this connection it may be useful and in- 
 teresting to place on record some particulars as to the 
 raising of these specimens by Mr. T. W. Pockett in 
 Australia. 
 
 Mr. Pockett left England for the Southern Continent in 
 1878. For some years before that date he had been em- 
 ployed as a lad in the gardens of Ireton House, Chelten- 
 ham, and the first well-grown chrysanthemums which he 
 saw were staged at the local shows. At that time 
 between 1871-3 the principal exhibits among the large 
 flowering varieties were the "Christines," in the medium- 
 sized Julia Lagravere, and among the pompoms Cedo Nulli 
 and its sports. He was entrusted wkh the duty of looking 
 after about four dozen different kinds, and this was con- 
 sidered a large collection in England in " the seventies." 
 
 Within a couple of years of his arrival in Australia, Mr. 
 Pockett began to experiment with a few old varieties of 
 chrysanthemums, which he obtained from one of the 
 nurseries, but he made very little progress until he got 
 Golden Dragon, Grandiflorum, and, later on, E. Mody- 
 neux and Lady Lawrence. The last-named caused quite 
 a sensation as specimen plants, and also as cut flowers. 
 As the years went by Mr. Pockett turned his attention to 
 the production of new varieties, the sunny climate of 
 Australia being particularly favourable to raising novelties 
 from seeds. In a letter to me on the subject, written in 
 1909, he said, recounting his early efforts : 
 
 .". A lot of time was taken up with raising seedlings from 
 that hirsute chrysanthemum, Mrs. Alpheus Hardy. The 
 result was chiefly bad constitutioned and invariably 
 smooth petallled varieties. Another set of experiments was 
 with perfumed sorts, which at first promised well; but 
 owing to the fact that any pleasing perfume was asso- 
 ciated every time with certain colours that were not likely 
 to be popular, and as there appeared to be great difficulty 
 in crossing and re-crossing so as to get pleasing per- 
 fumes in white, yellow, or crimson flowers, I was com- 
 
INTRODUCTION. Vll 
 
 pdled to abandon the idea, and to endeavour to raise 
 types and colours that would comply as far as possible 
 with public taste and requirements. 
 
 " The first batch of popular sorts contained Nellie Pockett, 
 still a favourite everywhere. Then came W. R. Church, 
 Mr. T. Carrington, Mrs. H. Partridge, E. J. Brooks, Lord 
 Ludlow, Mary Inglis, W. Duckham, W. A. Etherington, 
 Mrs. W. Duckham, Mrs. W. Knox, Mrs. J. E. Dunne, 
 Miss M. Hankey, Wm. Gee, Mrs. J. C. Neill, Mary Mason, 
 C. H. Totty, Frank Payne, Leslie Morrison, Rose Pockett, 
 Pockett 's Crimson, W. Hotston, Pockett 's Surprise, Mrs. 
 H. Stevens, Gladys Blackburn, Mrs. C. H. Totty, W. 
 Mease, Alice Lemon, Mrs. R. Luxford, Howard Gould, 
 (syn. Bessie G. Payne), Mrs. David Syme, Miss Alice 
 Finch, and Miss E. King. Also the following incurveds : 
 Mrs. Barnard Hankey, Pantia Rallli, Clara Wells, W. 
 J. Higgs; and the decorative varieties, Market Red, 
 Freda Bedford, Wells' late Pink, R. F. Felton, Hetty 
 Wells, Foxhunter, Miss Muriel Smith, December 
 Gold, and Clara Vurnum. A greater number of 
 popular kinds might be mentioned, but I am 
 quite prepared to state that, after taking" into con- 
 sideration the perfection of many of last year's seed- 
 lings, and the knowledge gained as a result of a number 
 of systematic experiments that have been made during the 
 last few seasons, the standard will be very much higher 
 during the next few years." 
 
 While Mr. Pockett was experimenting with large 
 Japanese chrysanthemums in Australia, Mr. T. Goacher, 
 of Tunbridge Wells, was busilly engaged in a similar way 
 with early flowering varieties at home. By dint of per- 
 severance he managed to obtain a number of excellent 
 specimens of distinct colours, such as Goaoher's Crimson, 
 Polly, Carrie, Rosle, Jimmie, Liillie, Mrs. A. Thomson, 
 1 Diana, Emily, Ethell Blades, Harrie, J. J. Hart, Wells' 
 Scarlet, etc. 
 
 These " earlies " opened up a new field of endeavour 
 and pleasurable occupation for hundreds of thousands of 
 lovers of flowers for the professional gardener as well as 
 
viii THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 the amateur and since then almost every season has 
 seen the introduction of new members to the great familly 
 of fairly large-sized chrysanthemums, of good habit, 
 possessing the highly important recommendation that they 
 come to perfection in the open air towards the end of the 
 summer or early in the autumn. These numerous varieties 
 raised by Mr. Goacher must be called early flowering 
 doubles, to distinguish them from the early flowering 
 singles raised and distributed by myself from Merstham. 
 
 Having referred to those who are principally associated 
 with me in the important work of raising and distributing 
 the newest and best varieties in Australia, England, and 
 America it may not be out of place >to say here that, for 
 my own part, my whole time is spent among chrysan- 
 themums. For upwards of forty years I have cultivated 
 them and studied them, watching their growth and noting 
 their innumerable interesting peculiarities. Born in 1848, 
 at Lovell Heath, near Charlwood, on the borders of Surrey 
 and Sussex, I was initiated into farming operations. 
 But this was not quite to my taste, and I soon began to 
 make acquaintance with the most ancient of all occupa- 
 tions in the gardens of Fen Place, Turner's Hill, Sussex, 
 when I was still a youth in my teens. In the 
 course of time the gardens were enlarged, and I felt 
 very pleased with myself when I was entrusted with the 
 work of laying them out and afterwards managing them. 
 My career as a chrysanthemum grower began in 1869. 
 In those days only two sections were recognised the large 
 flowered varieties, which were mostly incurved, and pom- 
 poms. The names of the favourites of thirty or forty years 
 ago are of very little interest now, except for purposes of 
 comparison ; but I recollect that my first success was 
 achieved with Miss Marechaux. This was shortly after 
 I began business on my own account at Earlswood, in 
 1877. I grew as many of the variety called Elaine as I 
 could house, and as soon as these were cut Mrs. G. Rundell 
 took their place. The latter was followed by Miss 
 Marechaux, a large, late, white incurved variety, which 
 I grew in 8-in. pots three plants in a pot. They soud at 
 
INTRODUCTION. IX 
 
 remarkably good prices. Both Mrs. Rundell and Miss 
 Marechaux had all been disbudded to one flower on a shoot, 
 and I believe that this was the beginning" of disbudding 
 blooms for market.' Anyway, through the surprising popu- 
 larity of these flowers I had applications for cuttings from 
 market growers in alii parts, and I set out to supply the 
 trade, restricting my efforts in this manner for some years. 
 Then, gradually, I went in altogether for growing and 
 distributing chrysanthemums not only to the trade, but 
 among gardeners and lovers of the " Queen of Autumn " 
 generally, at home and abroad. 
 
 The results of the experience I have gainec' in this, the 
 chief business of my life, are contained in the pages of this 
 littfle book, which I hope and believe will prove of value 
 to all who are interested in the most fascinating of all 
 gardening pursuits the Culture of the Chrysanthemum. 
 
 W. WELLS. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Introduction iii 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 The First Chrysanthemum in England i 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 Chrysanthemums for Exhibition ... ... ... ... 9 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 Stopping 26 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 Chrysanthemums in 6-in. Pots 33 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 Varieties for Decoration 37 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 Early Flowering Chrysanthemums... ... ... ... 40 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 Singles for Pot Culture 54 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 Pompoms and Anemones >. 60 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 Housing of Plants 61 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 Staging Flowers for Show 66 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 How to Pack Chrysanthemums 70 
 
CONTENTS. XI 
 
 CHAPTER XII. PAGE 
 
 Market Varieties 72 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 Soil for Potting 79 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 Chrysanthemums on the Continent 81 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 In America ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 83 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 Chrysanthemums Sporting 92 
 
 CHAPTER XV 7 ! I. 
 Dressing Blooms for Show 93 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 Judging Cut Blooms 97 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 Insect Pests and Diseases 99 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 Insect Friends 109 
 
 CHAPTER XXL 
 Hints on What Not to Do 113 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 Hints on What to Do 116 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 The Sterilisation of Soil 118 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 The Best Varieties 119 
 
THE CULTURE 
 
 OF THE 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUM 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE FIRST CHRYSANTHEMUM IN ENGLAND. 
 
 The story of. the introduction of the chrysanthemum into 
 Europe has been frequently told, with more or less 
 accuracy. As might, perhaps, be expected, the early records 
 are meagre and somewhat vague. The eighth edition of 
 Philip Miller's great work, the " Gardeners' Dictionary," 
 mentions that he cultivated the Matricaria indica at 
 Chelsea in 1764, and this is claimed to be the first appear- 
 ance of the flower in this country. It was received from 
 Ningpo in China, where at that time it was known to 
 grow plentifully. But there is good reason to believe that 
 this plant was a kind of pyrethrum, and not a true chry- 
 santhemum at all. 
 
 In 1789 M. Blancard, a merchant of Marseilles, brought 
 home three varieties of chrysanthemums from China a 
 white, a violet, and a purple but he only succeeded in 
 propagating one, the purple. Three years later a French 
 botanist named Ramatuelle sent about one hundred plants 
 raised from the new chrysanthemum to the Jardin des 
 
2 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 Plantes, a<t Paris, where they flourished. This had 
 the result of popularising the strange but lovely 
 Eastern flower, and within a few years chrysanthemums 
 were to be found growing in gardens in Aix, Marseilles 
 and Toulon as abundantly as the China aster. 
 
 Cultivated in England. 
 
 It was not until several years later, till 1795, that the 
 history of the chrysanthemum began in England. It is 
 recorded in the " Botanical Magazine " for February, 
 1796, that in the previous November a handsome chry- 
 santhemum of the crimson-purple variety flowered in the 
 nursery of Mr. Colvill, of King's Road, Chelsea. The 
 variety was probably precisely the same as that which M. 
 Blancard introduced direct from China at Marseilles. A 
 coloured engraving of the bloom was given in the 
 " Botanical Magazine," and was described under the name 
 of C. indicum although, as a matter of fact, C. indicum 
 was classified as a yellow before Mr. Colvill 's crimson- 
 purple flower attracted attention in 1796, and is still known 
 as a yellow chrysanthemum. But I cannot stop to dwell 
 at length upon this point; any reader who is curious to 
 learn what the experts had to say regarding C. sinense and 
 C. indicum will find the opinions of Sabine, Lindley, and 
 others summarised in "The Gardeners' Chronicle," 
 November, 1889. 
 
 Between 1795 and 1808 about eight new varieties were 
 imported into England from China namely, the rose, the 
 buff, the golden yellow, the quilled yellow, the sulphur- 
 yellow, the Spanish brown, the quilled white, and the large 
 lilac. At this period chrysanthemums were so popular in 
 Japan that they were cultivated in almost every garden. 
 In 1816 was introduced the tasselled white, and in 1817 
 the superb white. In 1822 there were in cultivation in 
 Great Britain 22 varieties; in 1824, 27; and in 1826, 48 
 four of which were sports which originated in England, 
 All the others were, however, believed to have been intro- 
 duced from China. 
 
Chrysanthemum Indicum. 
 
 (Natural size 01 Spray and Flower?) 
 
THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 Japan's Favourite Flower* 
 
 Mr. Robert Fortune, a gentleman who had travelled a 
 great deal in China and Japan, found that everywhere the 
 chrysanthemum seemed to be the favourite flower. He de- 
 scribed how in 1860 he saw for the first time those peculiar 
 forms of the flower which are cultivated in Japanese 
 gardens. At Yedo, where the finest kinds were grown, 
 and where he procured about thirty different varieties, 
 he discovered that many of them had their blossoms most 
 curiously and remarkably formed. The colours, which were 
 brilliant and very unusual, were altogether distinct from 
 those he had met with in China. Out of the thirty varieties 
 only about twelve or fifteen were brought to England 
 "alive," and from one or more of these Mr. John Salter, 
 of Hammersmith, seems to have saved some seed. From 
 this seed Mr. Saflter raised a large number of new kinds 
 of chrysanthemums differing in form and colour from those 
 from which the seeds were saved, but similar to those 
 which were lost on the way home to England from Japan. 
 The result does not seem to have been obtained by hybridis- 
 ing, for the simple reason that the pollen of the kinds pro- 
 duced couild not have been obtained in Europe. Mr. Fortune 
 declared that if one was in possession of one variety only 
 it might be made to reproduce all the varieties in cultiva- 
 tion from whence it came, and that flowers would be pro- 
 duced not only different in colour from the parent, but 
 entirely different in form also. 
 
 Between 1830 and 1850 several varieties were raised from 
 seed saved in England and France. Amongst the latter 
 were the welil-known Christine and Chevalier Domage, and 
 in 1848 there appears to have been an anemone flowered 
 variety called Nancy de Lermet w'hite tinged with blue. 
 And ever since then the real blue chrysanthemum has been 
 more a matter of conversation than of fact. But this may 
 come yet. Who at one time would have thought of seeing 
 a green chrysanthemum, especially in a sport, and after- 
 wards as a seedling? Then why not a blue chrysanthe- 
 mum? But this is by the way. 
 
THE FIRST CHRYSANTHEMUM IN ENGLAND. 5 
 
 The First Chrysanthemum Show. 
 
 About the time that Nancy de Lermet was raised, ac- 
 cording to Mr. Fortune, the chrysanthemums in this coun- 
 try were far superior to those in China, and this despite 
 the fact thai they met at first with scant favour in England, 
 though it was otherwise in France, where many beautiful 
 varieties soon appeared. 
 
 From the inception of the Stoke Newington Show long- 
 strides have been made, both as regards varieties and culti- 
 vation. The earliest chrysanthemum show in Great Britain 
 was that held at Norwich, about the year 1829, and although 
 no prizes were given it was considered to be a rather rash 
 undertaking. Some of the varieties exhibited at Norwich 
 were Early Blush, Curled Lilac, Semi-double Quilled Pink, 
 White Quilled, Tasselled Yellow, Parks Yellow, Purple 
 Quilled, Tasselled Lilac, Changeable Pink Buff, Change- 
 alble Pale White, Changeable Purple, Spanish Brown, 
 Quilled Orange, Two-coloured Red, and Early Crimson. 
 What's in a name? 
 
 Varieties Then and Now. 
 
 I need not dwell upon the old varieties, or those which 
 were introduced for some years afterwards, but I w r ill give 
 the names of some of the best varieties which were to be 
 seen in England in 1890 and it is a remarkable fact that 
 out of the varieties which were so popular at that time not 
 one is to be found on the Show bench at the present time. 
 The best thirty-six varieties in 1890 were as under : Ava- 
 lanche, Carew Underwood, Boule d'Or, Belle Paule, 
 Baronne de Frailly, Comte de Germiny, Elaine, F. A. 
 Davis (Jeanne Delaux), Edwin Molyneux, Golden Dragon, 
 H. Cannell, Japonaise, L'Adorable, Lady Lawrence, Etoile 
 de Lyon, Mdm. B. Pigny, Mdm. Bacco, Mdm. J. Laing, 
 Mdm. C. Audigier, Mdlle. Lacroix, Marsa, Mons. Bernard, 
 Mons. Freeman, Mrs. Wheeler, Mrs. J. Wright, Meg 
 Merrilless, Pelican, Ralph Brockkbank, Sarah Owen, Sun- 
 flower, Stanstead White, Soleil Levant, Val d'Andorre, W. 
 W. Coles, Thunberg, Stanstead Surprise, etc. 
 
 13 
 
6 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 Twenty-four of the best incurved chrysanthemums in 
 1890 were : Princess of Wales, Mrs. Heale, Violet Tomlin, 
 Mrs. S. Coleman, Miss Hag-gas, Empress of India, Alfred 
 Salter, Golden Empress, John Lambert, Lord Alcester, 
 Queen of England, Refulgens, John Salter, Prince Alfred, 
 Lord Wolseley, Jeanne d'Arc, Jardin des Plantes, Hero of 
 Stoke Newington, Princess of Teck, Chas. Gibson, Nil 
 Desperandum, Barbara, Mrs. Geo. Rundle and Mrs. 
 Dixon. 
 
 Only a very few of the foregoing plants are now in culti- 
 vation, the reason being that none of them wild compare 
 with the prize-winning varieties of the present day. 
 
 In 1895 the incurved section was enriched by C. H. 
 Curtis, Mrs. R. C. Kingston, Baron Hirsch, Mdm. Barrier, 
 J. Agate, Mons. R. Bahuant, etc., while during the same 
 period the Japanese made such strides that larger show 
 boards were considered necessary. And for the vast im- 
 provement which was made much of the credit must be 
 given to Mons. E. Calvat, of Grenoble, who at that time 
 gave a stimulus to the chrysanthemum trade. Although 
 other growers were doing their best, their whole efforts 
 combined could not compare with M. Calvat 's. But, natur- 
 ally enough, a large number took up the running such as 
 Weeks, N. Molyneux, Penford, Mileham, Silsbury, Bryant, 
 Tanner, and other amateur raisers in Great Britain, in 
 addition to members of the trade, and Pockett in Australia 
 and others in different parts of the world, so that it is not 
 surprising that so many varieties are introduced each year. 
 And as it is only natural for each grower to look upon his 
 own production as superior to that of others, it can be easily 
 understood why so many varieties get into circulation. 
 
 Among the Japanese varieties which were considered un- 
 surpassable in 1895 were the following : Mdm. Carnot, 
 Mons. Panckoucke, Mons. Chenon de Leche, Edwin Moly- 
 neux, V. Morel, Chas. Davis, Mdlle. M. A. de Galbert, Col. 
 W. B. Smith, Baron de Buffieries, John Shrimpton, 
 Phoebus, MdlHe. Theresa Rey, Louise, Le Moucherott.e, 
 Mutual Friend, Mrs. C. H. Payne, Mrs. W. H. Lees, Mdm. 
 M. Ricoud, Trios. Wilkins, Miss Dorothy Shea, Vicountess 
 
THE FIRST CHRYSANTHEMUM IN ENGLAND. 7 
 
 Hambledon, W. Seward, Mdm. Ad. Chatm, Deuil de Jules 
 Ferry, Beauty of Castlewood, Souvenir de Petite Amie, 
 Rose Wynne, etc. It will be found interesting to compare 
 the foregoing chrysanthemums with the list of the most 
 popular varieties at the present day as set forth at the end 
 of this book. 
 
 Popularity of Chrysanthemums. 
 
 And here let me remark in passing that from time to 
 time articles are published or speeches are made in which 
 the writer or speaker proves apparently to his own satis- 
 faction that the chrysanthemum trade is on the wane, and 
 that the flower is declining in favour. But this is not my 
 experience ; indeed, the contrary is the case. For every two 
 or three traders who fail, a score of new-comers are to be 
 found joining the ranks of professional growers, and the 
 amateurs are an ever-increasing army ! I do not pretend 
 to be a prophet, but I venture to say, looking to the future, 
 that the popularity of the chrysanthemum will not die. 
 The flower comes to perfection at a period of the year 
 when no other flower, procurable at such a trifling outlay, 
 can be obtained to fill its place. 
 
 Enthusiastic Amateurs. 
 
 As regards the early flowering chrysanthemums, im- 
 mense strides in their cultivation have been made, for up 
 to 1889 there were very few good varieties. Comprised in 
 the best were : Mdm. C. Desgrange, St. Grouts, Nanum, 
 Little Bob, Fred Pele, Precocite, Flora, Mdm. Jolivart, 
 La Vierge, Lyon, Blushing Bride, Mrs. Burrell, Mrs. 
 Hawkins, Alice Butcher, Anastasia, and a few others. But 
 the late Mr. W. Piercy took up their culture, and about the 
 year 1889 he wrote an article upon them, in which he re- 
 marked : " We want a few more enthusiastic amateurs, 
 and any spare money we can get, for these are the things 
 to help on the progress of these early varieties, which ap- 
 pear capable of boundless extension." There never was a 
 more accurate forecast. At that time, too, the late Mr. 
 Russell, of Mytchett, Farnborough, Hants, was directing 
 
 B 2 
 
8 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 his attention to the early varieties, and introduced a lot 
 quite superior to any others then in existence, nearly all of 
 them being recognisable by the name of Mytchett, viz., 
 Mytchett White, Mytchett Beauty, etc. 
 
 Recently, Mr. Goacher has raised varieties of good con- 
 stitution, which flower freely and bloom from the begin- 
 ning of September onwards, included in the number being 
 Goacher 's Crimson, Carrie and Polly. Among the French 
 growers M. Aug. Nonin, and others, have turned their 
 attention to the earlies, and sent us some of the best whites 
 Roi des Blancs, Tapis de Neige, Savoie, etc. A few good 
 earlies have also been sent out by Mr. Smellie, the most 
 noteworthy being Hector. I have myself raised a large 
 number at Merstham, but despite all this, my ideal white 
 among early flowering chrysanthemums has not yet been 
 produced. 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR EXHIBITION. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR EXHIBITION. 
 
 In the following chapters I propose to treat on the best 
 and most up-to-date methods of growing the chrysan- 
 themum, whether for exhibition, decoration, or market; 
 but as the first-named stands out from the rest both in 
 respect of the skill required and in the perfection of bloom 
 produced I shall take this section first. 
 
 Growing Tor the Show Bench. 
 
 In growing chrysanthemums for the Show bench I shall 
 give two distinct methods, and shall endeavour to keep 
 each to its own chapter. In following the first method, 
 whereby two, three, and even four blooms for exhibition 
 are produced on the same plant, it is essential that the 
 cuttings should be inserted during December and January 
 if they can be procured. The soil should consist of equad 
 parts of loam, sand, and leaf-mould. Sprinkle a little 
 coarse sand on the top of the compost, so thai some may 
 trickle down when the holes are made into which the cut- 
 tings are inserted. Put three or four cuttings round the 
 edge of a 4-in. pot, press firmly, and sprinkle with a little 
 water to settle all well about the heels of the cuttings. 
 Place them in a greenhouse in hand-lights, or boxes just 
 deep enough to allow of squares of glass being laid over 
 them, to retain the moisture whilst rooting is being 
 accomplished. 
 
 Take cuttings of all the late flowering sorts first, if they 
 can be had. I prefer those which have a clean growth of 
 four or five inches from the ground, taking their tops 
 about two or three inches long, to those which 
 have been grubbed up out of the ground, even if they have 
 roots to them. The former cuttings make plants sooner, 
 and have a cleaner growth (cuttings from the stem often 
 throw premature flower buds). 
 
10 
 
 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 The cuttings will require to be sprayed occasionally, at 
 about ten or eleven o'clock, so that they may get tolerably 
 dry by evening. They will not require watering otherwise 
 till they are rooted, which will be in three or four weeks. 
 The temperature should be from 45 degrees by night to 
 50 degrees by day. It is advisable to be a little below than 
 above this temperature, and the less fire-heat employed the 
 better. At one time I used to root cuttings in cold frames, 
 but long experience has taught me that it is not always 
 
 A Good Cutting:. 
 
 safe on account of severe frosts. Some growers become 
 very anxious if certain sorts of cuttings canno>c be had at 
 a given date, but this need not be, as I will show by the 
 method of stopping (see Chapter III. on " Stopping "). As 
 soon as the cuttings show the least sign of growth, the 
 glass should be tilted for a day or two in order to harden 
 them, and then taken off altogether. They should then be 
 removed from the box or frame, and given plenty of light 
 and air, so as to keep them from growing too fast and 
 becoming drawn. 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR EXHIBITION. 
 
 II 
 
 When the cuttings are nicely rooted, before the roots 
 get entangled all round, knock the plants out of the pot 
 
 and divide them carefully. Hardly a root will be broken. 
 Pot them into clean 3-in. or 4-in. pots, crocked with old 
 mortar rubbish or oak leaves. 
 
12 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 The First Potting. 
 
 Soil : One bushel of good loam (that in which cucumbers 
 have been grown the previous year will do), one quarter 
 bushel oak or beech leaves twelve months old, one quarter 
 bushel old mortar rubbish sifted fine, a quart of ground 
 bones, and half a gallon of coarse sand. Failing the 
 ground bones, use one quarter bushel of very old rotten 
 manure, but nothing to cause rank, sappy growth. Pass 
 the whole through a %-in. sieve; and the coarser portion 
 of the soil may be put into the bottom of the pots for 
 drainage. I very rarely use a crock at the bottom of small 
 pots. Make the soil moderately firm with the thumbs. 
 Rig up a frame close to the glass (an old door will do), 
 put a thin layer o>f ashes or sand upon it, and stand the 
 newly-potted plants on this. Sprinkle them overhead once 
 a day, or twice in very sunny weather. If the sun is very 
 bright, they may want shading for a few days, but not 
 otherwise. Keep them close for a day or two ; then give 
 them all the light and air possible, but no fire-heat if you 
 can manage just to keep them above freezing-point with- 
 out it. Fumigate or dust them with tobacco powder on the 
 first appearance of iaiphis. 
 
 When the Plants are Rooted. 
 
 As soon as the plants are beginning to root nicely, the 
 best place for them is a cold frame, for by this time the 
 sun will have sufficient power to admit of them having a 
 little air each day, but cover them at night with mats if 
 frosty, leaving just a chink of air when the thermometer 
 is above 40 degrees. A sheltered spot should be selected, 
 so that they may get no cold, cutting draughts; but air 
 should be given on all favourable occasions. If the wind 
 is at all keen, tilt the lights a little o<n the opposite side to 
 that from which the wind is blowing; or use hurdles, or 
 boughs in fact, anything that will break the wind ; but 
 the plants should have air if the thermometer is above 
 40 degrees in the day. They must not be crowded at any 
 time, but should stand clear of each other. From the 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR EXHIBITION. 13 
 
 middle to the end of March, the tops only just the point, 
 say, half-an-inch may be taken out of the very late varie- 
 ties (see " Stopping "). A week after this they will be 
 ready for shifting into 6-in. pots. This should be about 
 
 Plant making the first break. 
 
 the end of March or first week in April. Do not stop any 
 -plants at the time of potting. Either stop .them a few days 
 before, or leave them until they have been potted a week. 
 
14 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 Potting into 6-iii. Pots (or 33' s). 
 
 Soil : To every bushel of good, yellow, fibrous loam, 
 which has been cut six months or more and chopped about 
 the size of walnuts, add two gallons of leaf mould, two 
 gallons of rotten manure, two gallons of old mortar 
 rubbish or charcoal, not larger than nuts, and two gallons 
 of wood ashes, half a gallon of ground bones, and half a 
 gallon of coarse sand. The latter need not be added if the 
 loam has plenty of fibre in it. If mortar rubbish cannot 
 be had, add more sand, but sand has not the nourishment 
 that old mortar rubbish contains. This quantity will be 
 sufficient for about fifty plants. Commence by putting one 
 good-sized crock, hollow side down, over the hole of a 
 clean -pot, and cover this with a layer of old mortar 
 rubbish about the size of nuts to the depth of about three- 
 quarters of an inch, then fill in another layer of the 
 roughest or turfy parts of the soil. Ram this pretty firmly 
 with the blunt end of the potting-stick ; sprinkle a handful 
 of finer soil loosely over this for the roots to rest upon ; turn 
 the plants out of the 4-in. pots by giving them a tap on the 
 bench, catching them with the left hand ; and then stand 
 each one in the centre of the pot, and with the crown fully 
 half-an-inch below the rim of the 'pot. Hold the plant in 
 position until sufficient soil has been put in to keep it 
 upright, ramming it gently and evenly all round until the 
 pot is filled level to the crown of the plant, not more. Be 
 careful that your stick is not too wide, and do not punch 
 too closely to the old ball, or with one punch you may cut 
 through the roots all down one side. This will bruise every 
 ro6t, and the plant will take some time to recover. 
 
 Hints on Watering. 
 
 Some growers shade their plants after this potting, but 
 if the operation is carefully done shading is unnecessary. 
 Sprinkling the plants once or twice daily will be all that 
 is required for a few days. The plants should be returned 
 to the frames after this shift, and may be kept a little 
 close for a day, to keep the wind from blowing directly 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR EXHIBITION. 15 
 
 upon them; otherwise they should frave a,ll the light and 
 air possible, and plenty of room allowed them. They 
 should not be watered for .a few days after potting, but 
 be kept from flagging by just sprinkling them overhead 
 very lightly, but not after 2 p.m., or they will not get dry 
 before night. They should be watered the first time suffi- 
 ciently to soak the ball through, a rose being used on the 
 watering-pot. Do not go over them all a little, and then 
 round again, as this will make the soil muddy. After this 
 watering the pots should always be tapped with the 
 knuckles to ascertain if the plants are dry ; and if this 
 prove to be so, give them sufficient water to go through the 
 bottom. But on no account water them before they are 
 dry, for on this careful watering depends the ripening of 
 the wood throughout the whole growth. 
 
 One soon gets used to the sound of a dry pot. The old 
 custom of watering chrysanthemums once a day, whether 
 they want it or not, will never ripen the wood -properly, 
 and will never produce good exhibition flowers. It should 
 be remembered that after the first watering they may not 
 want any more for a week, and watering would only turn 
 them yellow. But as soon as they get well rooted, some 
 of them may want watering twice daily on hot, dry days, 
 and they must have it, or they will take their revenge in 
 November ! Not one item must be neglected. The best 
 of everything must be got for them, and the best attention 
 given them. Then, depend upon it, they will reward you 
 in the end. 
 
 Always avoid watering chrysanthemums late in the day 
 when there is any sign of frost, for when the plants are 
 full of water the frost takes more hold upon them than 
 when they are dry. But while they are in the 32*8 they 
 can be covered at night, for it is not safe to trust the 
 English climate even one night. Some of the plants may 
 want a stake while in the 32*5, but do not use large 
 or stout ones. Should the plants get too tall for the frame, 
 put a brick under each corner. If they are well rooted, 
 and the weather is wet and cold, it would be better to 
 feed them a little than pot them into their flowering pots. 
 
i6 
 
 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR EXHIBITION. 17 
 
 for as a rule they must be placed in the open after the 
 final potting. A spell of wet weather would sodden the 
 rich soil and make it sour before the roots could get hold 
 of it, and if the leaves once began to turn yellow it would 
 be a long time before the plants recovered. In fact, they 
 would get such a check that they would feel it for the 
 whole season. From the beginning of May the plants 
 should be thoroughly exposed night and day, except when 
 there is any appearance of a sharp frost. A rough frame- 
 work of posts and slate battens with tiffany is a good 
 covering in case of frost. 
 
 Preparation for Final Potting. 
 
 Early in May preparation for the final potting should 
 be made by getting the soil ready. The next step is to 
 see that sufficient pots are cleaned* and in readiness, and 
 that a good supply of old mortar rubbish, or crushed 
 oyster shells, is prepared for drainage. The mortar 
 rubbish should be run through a g-iru sieve. The coarsest 
 is used for drainage purposes, and the fine kept for 
 mixing with the soil. 
 
 Final Potting. 
 
 Everything 'being in readiness and the weather favour- 
 able, a beginning may be made with the final potting 
 about the middle of May, the strongest and best-rooted 
 plants being taken first. A large clean crock or an oyster 
 shell should be placed, hollow side downwards, over the 
 hole, and then about an inch of old mortar rubbish or the 
 broken oyster shells. I use the shells, if they can possibly 
 be had, in preference to clinkers or crocks for two reasons ; 
 firstly, they form food for the plant ; secondly, they need 
 not be picked out when the old stools are thrown away, 
 as they are. also good for the garden. Upon the drainage 
 put some of the roughest or turfy parts of the soil, suffi- 
 cient to cover the crocks well, then some of the soil, and 
 ram pretty tightly with the blunt end of the potting-stick 
 (which should be one foot long, and about one-and-a-half 
 
1 8 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 inches in diameter, with one end shaved to half an inch). 
 Add loosely a little of the fine soil for the plant to rest 
 upon, then turn the plant topsy-turvy, and give the rim of 
 the pot a sharp tap on the bench, catching the plant with 
 the left hand. Pick out the crock and all the rubble. 
 Take care not to injure the roots, but spread them out, 
 carefully resting the plant upon the soil. 
 
 The base of the stem should be quite an inch below the 
 top of the pot, and in the centre. Hold it in position with 
 the left hand until you fill in sufficient soil to steady it. 
 Then gently ram the soil with the thin end of the stick, 
 being careful not to cut any of the roots in punching, and 
 continue to fill in and ram till you get the soil level with 
 the base, after which with the blunt end of the stick press 
 the surface down pretty tightly, so that you cannot make 
 any impression with your thumb. If the soil is sufficiently 
 porous, there will be no danger; but if your soil is very 
 heavy and fibreless, it would be well to pot one of your 
 worst plants first, and stand it out and water it to see if 
 the water passes through all right. 
 
 I once made a sad mistake by tedling the men not to be 
 afraid of ramming the mould too tightly. The soil was 
 heavy and had very little fibre in it. It had, moreover, 
 been lying in a rather damp place, and ithe large pieces 
 which they put at the bottom of the pots were too wet. 
 They pounded it so thoroughly that the water could not 
 get (through, and not being at home to watch the pro- 
 ceedings, all that day's labour was wasted (see " Hints on 
 What Not to Do "). Several trying seasons have taught 
 me a lesson as regards putting chrysanthemums at once in 
 their summer quarters after being finally potted. The 
 weather has to be very carefully studied. A keen wind 
 may strip off the leaves and give the plants a severe check. 
 Many varieties turn quite yellow in the foliage, which 
 eventually dies off leaving the stems quite naked, and this, 
 as may be imagined, greatly retards development. So I 
 advise standing them for a. fortnight or so in a sheUtered 
 position, where they may be easily sprayed to prevent 
 drying too quickly, and also be syringed with paraffin 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR EXHIBITION. 
 
20 TH CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 mixture, a preventive against the leaf mining maggot 
 and fungus. (See " Remarks on Fungus ") 
 
 Summer Quarters* 
 
 With regard to summer quarters for the 'mums, the 
 sides of the paths in the kitchen garden are doubtless as 
 good places as any, if there is plently of room without 
 the trees or vegetables shading them. They may be stood 
 just off the paths. Place floor-boards or tiles to stand the 
 plants upon. A stout stump should be driven into the 
 ground at each end, and also at intervals of 12 or 15 ft. 
 along the row of pots, and a wire of medium thickness 
 stretched 'from post to post at each end and about five feet 
 from the ground. If the rows run north and south, the 
 wire may be raised four feet at the south, and six feet at 
 the north end, so that the shortest varieties of plants may 
 be placed at the south end and the tallest varieties at the 
 north, and thus allow the sun to shine over the tops of 
 all. If the very tall varieties are stood together, it is as 
 well to put two wires; or if the cultivator desires to tie 
 his plants out each way they should have two wires. Do 
 not use string, for it stretches and shrinks, and is almost 
 sure to come to grief in September through wet and wind. 
 Then there is all the work to do over again, besides having 
 many of the buds broken off. If the plants cannot be 
 stood up the sides of the paths, they should have a posi- 
 tion where they would be well exposed to the sun all day. 
 I may say that in our nursery at Merstham we have layers 
 of concrete seven inches wide and four feet apart running 
 north and south, so as to form a permanent position ; but 
 there are only very few growers who could spare the ground 
 to do this, although concrete is cheaper and more durable 
 than boards. 
 
 In standing the plants in their summer quarters, they 
 should be at least 15 inches from plant to plant more if 
 possible. One good strong stake should be put to each 
 plant when the row is completed 6-ft. or y-ft. bamboos 
 are the best. Bamboos are strong, and, lasting several 
 seasons, are the cheapest. Besides, being- slight they do 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR EXHIBITION. 21 
 
 not shade the plants much, and, while they need no 
 sharpening, they will not bruise the roots if carefully in- 
 serted. The stakes should be placed on the north side of 
 the plant, so that they may not shade it at all, and each 
 plant should be looped to the stake. The plants should 
 be sprinkled over-head twice a day to prevent flagging 
 after being newly potted, and this will keep them fresh for 
 three or four days without watering; but do not syringe 
 them after 3 p.m. When they are watered for the first 
 time it should be done with the rose on, and 
 sufficient water should be given to go through (or fill 
 the pot, which will be enough), and they will not require 
 any more for a few days. But keep up the sprinkling with 
 very weak, clear soot-water once a day. The pots should 
 be tapped with the knuckles when they look dry to make 
 sure of the fact, and by no means give water unless they 
 sound hollow. If they are over-watered at this stage the 
 foliage will be sure to turn yellow, for the soil, being rich 
 and firm, holds the water ; but always when they are 
 watered they should have sufficient to soak them through. 
 
 The First Break. 
 
 After they have made their first break the shoots should 
 either be looped separately to the stake, or smaller sticks 
 should be inserted and tied to the wire on each side, so as 
 to allow each shoot to be attached to one stick. I have 
 tried both these methods, but I really cannot see any 
 difference in the flowers at the finish. As the tying out 
 requires more sticks and extra work an tying, especially 
 when the plants have to be taken indoors, and as the 
 plants so treated do not look so nice, I do not think there 
 is any preference to be given for the extra labour. Water- 
 ing must be very carefully done throughout, always giving 
 the pots enough when they want it, and not before. They 
 should be looked over three times a day at least, and if 
 the weather be hot and dry in July, four times. I have 
 sometimes seen plants neglected very much, especially on 
 Sundays, when they get what I call " flicked over " when 
 growers make a watering-potful go about three times as 
 
 C 
 
22 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 far as it ought to go. This is terribly deceiving, and 
 unless the operator is caught in the act you would not 
 think of it. The sooner such persons get notice to quit 
 the better it will be for the gardener, for it is hardly neces- 
 sary to remark that such men do not take an interest in 
 their work. I have also seen men when watering, and when 
 wiithin five or six plants of the end of the row (and perhaps 
 with only sufficient water in the watering-pot for two 
 plants), eking it out for the lot rather than go for more. 
 
 Soot-Water and Paraffin. 
 
 It is a good plan to syringe the plants with clear soot- 
 water with a little " Homco " or " Abol " (''White's 
 superior insecticide") once a week; it keeps aphides and 
 thrips at bay, and they are the best preventives against 
 mildew and fungus. As a matter of fact these agents are 
 so cheap growers do not reckon them at half their value. 
 Soot is valuable as an insecticide as well as a stimulant. 
 When plants are in process of full development and a spell 
 of dull weather sets in, the growth will be very tender, 
 and watering must be most carefully done. For if the 
 sun and wind play upon them afterwards the tops will 
 lop like rags. But do not be deceived and think they 
 are dry. Tap the pots to make sure. A " tickle " with 
 the syringe may be much more advantageous to them 
 than a dose of water at the roots; for it is by careful 
 watering only that the wood is thoroughly ripened and 
 the foliage kept from dropping off, or enticing mildew 
 or parasites. 
 
 The Second Break* 
 
 Now, supposing we are in the middle of July and all 
 essential details have been attended to watering, tying 
 the shoots, keeping all superfluous growths pinched out, etc. 
 plants which are intended to produce second crown 
 blooms will be making their second breaks. Three shoots 
 may be left on each for a few days. When three inches long 
 take out the worst of these ; and when six inches long take 
 out the worst again thus leaving but one growth to each 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR EXHIBITION. 23 
 
 shoot, or three shoots to each plant as before. By that 
 time the plants will be wdl rooted, and may be given very 
 weak stimulants, beginning by only just colouring the 
 water, and changing the diet every week, or oftener if 
 possible. There are so many good manures that it is no 
 trouble to give the plants a change; but the best manures 
 at this time are those that will afford the plant something 
 to feed upon such as soot, or sheep, horse, cow, chicken, 
 or pigeon droppings put into a coarse bag and immersed 
 in a tub, which should be kept filled with water. A little 
 of this in the watering-pot every alternate day, or three 
 times a week, is far better than a stronger dose once a 
 week. Then there are Clay's and Barnes' manures, 
 which are advertised in this book. A mixture may 
 be made in the proportion of one gallon of manure 
 to one bushel of fine soil, and a small handful 
 may be sprinkled on the top of the pots by the 
 end of July, but the same chemical must not be used twice 
 in succession. The roots will have become pretty greedy 
 by this time, as they will have practically exhausted the 
 soil, and they must, therefore, have something to keep 
 them going. I do not believe in waiting until the bud is 
 secured before commencing to feed, for the plants will 
 ha,ve already made their growth. To withhold nourish- 
 ment from "them at this stage would be like starving a 
 boy when he is growing and wants plenty of food, and try- 
 ing to make it up to him when he arrives at manhood. 
 One must study Nature in everything, and, depend upon 
 it, Nature is always right ! 
 
 Securiog the Buds. 
 
 About the middle of August many of the plants of the 
 Japanese varieties will be showing buds. It would not be 
 safe to let them make another break after that, or the 
 blooms would be late and show a large eye in many 
 instances. The mid-August buds should, therefore, be 
 secured, and should the buds appear a week or so before 
 the middle of the month, one or two growths may be 
 
 C 2 
 
2 4 
 
 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 left for a week or so, towards the top, to retard the bud. 
 Amongst the incurveds C. H. Curtis, Duchess of Fife, 
 Clara Wells, and a few others the buds may be secured 
 by the middle of August, as they have so many florets; 
 but the majority are best not secured earlier than from the 
 2oth to the 25th, or they would be too early. They may 
 
 Crowr? Bud Terminal Buds 
 
 be retarded a little by leaving" a shoot at the side of the 
 bud for a few days to draw the sap from the bud, as with 
 the Japanese. The best incurveds are those secured at the 
 end of August. 
 
 A Good Dressing. 
 
 Now, supposing we are at the end of August, or the 
 first week in September, and the buds are all secured. It 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR EXHIBITION. 25 
 
 would be safe to give a dressing of nitrate of soda ; but 
 be very careful with this. Mix one pound of nitrate in 
 two gallons of water, dissolving every particle. Then to 
 every two gallons of water add half-a-pint of the nitrate 
 liquid, the proportions being half-an-ounee of nitrate to two 
 gallons of water. This will be quite strong enough, and 
 before using it be careful that none of the plants are 
 quite dry. The whole of the plaints may be watered with 
 the solution if their buds have been secured. This dress- 
 ing may be repeated in about a fortnight, but not after the 
 plants are housed, for it has a tendency to cause damping. 
 Continue to use other stimulants farmyard manure, or 
 something else that will enrich the soil, for nitrate does not 
 do this. Nitrate is merely stimulating, like brandy to an 
 exhausted man; but "Farmyard" is really food, like 
 beef-tea. 
 
 
 
 Housing the Plants. 
 
 Well, we are, say, in the last week of September. 
 Everything that can be done for the plants' benefit has 
 been done. All earwigs (that could be found) have been 
 killed; all mildew checked; alll side-shoots cleaned off, etc. 
 Now the houses should be painted or cleaned, and made 
 drip-proof. If ia house is standing by itself and can be 
 thoroughly emptied, some sulphur may be burnt in it. 
 This kills everything; but if it join other houses, or the 
 dwelling house, then sulphur will not do; for it not only 
 kills plants, but tarnishes pictures, plate, etc., as well. 
 But, above all, see that the houses are drip-proof. 
 
 All plants should be housed by the end of September, for 
 the simple reason that they are not safe out of doors after 
 that ; and as they begin to show colour they should be 
 slightly shaded. 
 
26 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 STOPPING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
 
 By stopping, I must be understood to mean pinching out 
 about half an inch of the soft growth from the point or 
 
 CROYVN 
 
 CROWN 
 
 BREAK 
 
 Plant Stopped for Second Crown, 
 showing the breaks. 
 
 apex of a shoot. The sole object of stopping exhibition 
 varieties is to secure an earlier break than the plant would 
 
STOPPING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 27 
 
 make naturally, so that it should be forced to bear flowers 
 of the greatest perfection one, two, or three weeks earlier 
 than it would do by allowing it to make its breaks in its 
 own natural way. Unless the cultivator's object be to 
 produce large exhibition blooms and have them in perfec- 
 tion by a certain date the stopping (or " timing " as it is 
 often called), is absolutely unnecessary, for all chrysanthe- 
 mums will flower at their usual time if unstopped. 
 
 Stopping does not mean cutting or pinching off two, 
 three, or more inches of the top, but, as I have said, merely 
 taking out just the leading point, or say half an inch, 
 which compels the shoot to make a break much earlier 
 than it naturally would, and this break brings about exactly 
 the same result as the natural break would. There are 
 so many different types or sections of varieties, even 
 among the Japanese, that one might write a book upon 
 this one point of stopping only. But I will name ai few 
 of the very best varieties, the different methods of timing 
 them, and the buds preferred, so as to have the blooms at 
 their best by the first or second week in November in the 
 South of England. Growers in the Midlands or in the 
 North should stop their plants earlier, or in many cases 
 secure first crowns. (See " The Best Japs for Exhibi- 
 tion.") 
 
 Varieties Improved i> Stopping* 
 
 I will describe a few varieties which are improved in 
 colour and form by stopping. Among the number are 
 Algernon Davis, F. S. Vallis, H. Perkins, Lady Hopetoun, 
 Marquis of Northampton, Mdm. P. Radaelli, Mdm. G. 
 Rivol, Mrs. F. W. Vallis, Reginald Vallis, V. Greenham, 
 and W. A. Etherington. These are a few of the sorts 
 which, if rooted early, may be stopped by the end of March, 
 or early in April, in the South of England. It is desirable 
 to lead up only one growth from the resulting "break to the 
 next break (see Plate with one shoot), which should show 
 by the end of June. If, however, the second break does not 
 appear by the beginning of July, I would advise taking out 
 the point. From this break three shoots should be taken 
 
28 
 
 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 up. The buds at the top of these would be second crowns, 
 and should appear from the 15*11 to the 2oth of August. 
 
 A Plant Stopped early in April, and one shoot only 
 allowed to grow. 
 
 These buds should produce large flowers, and show better 
 colour than would be procured from natural first crown 
 
STOPPING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 29 
 
 buds. It would be safer, however, in order to take no 
 risks as regards the weather, to treat a few plants in 
 
 A Plant Stopped early in April, and three shoots 
 left to grow. 
 
 * 
 
 different ways i.e., a few plants shouild be grown on 
 natural first crowns, and a few others as described above. 
 
30 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 But let it be distinctly understood that growers who have 
 weakly plants should never practise stopping, for stopping 
 has a tendency to check the growth. Therefore, unless a 
 plant is in good health and thoroughly established, it would 
 be better to allow it to grow on and gain strength. My 
 object in recommending early stopping is that the plants 
 may not subsequently receive any check, for the best 
 flowers are generally those which are produced on the top 
 growths. In a word, unless flowers are required by a 
 certain date as, for instance, for exhibition purposes stop- 
 ping is absolutely unnecessary. 
 
 There are many ways by means of which the professional 
 gardener can time his chrysanthemums, the principal 
 method being, of course, to insert cuttings at certain 
 dates. But no man can control the weather ; neither can 
 he ensure that all his cuttings will grow nicely and make 
 their break at a stated time. In order to know the 
 peculiarities of different varieties, one has to grow them 
 a season or two, and even then some men will succeed 
 with particular varieties better than others. It is these 
 cultural peculiarities which make chrysanthemum growing 
 so interesting. 
 
 For beginners I should advise a selection , from the easy 
 growers, or natural second crown varieties, as they do not 
 require ithe expert knowledge which is essential in the 
 case of other plants, and after ta season's handling the 
 enthusiast will learn all that is required to be known about 
 first breaks, first crowns, second crowns, and terminal 
 buds; in fact, the cultivation of the " Queen of Autumn " 
 will become as easy as " falling off a log. " ^ 
 
 Suitable for Beginners. 
 
 The group of chrysanthemums styled " second crowners " 
 are the most reliable for beginners, because they make 
 their breaks easily, and by tampering with them one is 
 more likely to throw them back than anything. A few of 
 the best varieties are Geo. Mileham, 1908, Lady Talbot, 
 
STOPPING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 31 
 
 Mrs. C. H. Totty, Mrs. J. C. NeiU, Mrs. J. E. Dunne, 
 Mrs. L. Thorn, Mrs. N. Davis, Mrs. W. Knox, 
 
 -*tft 
 
 
 . 
 
 A Plant after it has made a natural break. The next buds 
 which show will be First Crowns. 
 
 Pockett's Surprise, Rose Pockett, Splendour, and W. 
 Beadle. 
 
32 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 In addition, there is the group of first crown varieties 
 (see Plate), which make only one natural break in 
 the South. In the North of England and Scotland the 
 cuttings must be inserted early, otherwise they have to be 
 stopped in May. A few of the best are as under : Bessie 
 Godfrey, Dennis Kirby, Dorothy Gouldsmith, Duchess of 
 Sutherland, Frank Payne, Mrs. A. G. Pirie, Mrs. Geo. 
 Milleham, Mrs. H. Barnes, Thrumpton Pride, and Walter 
 Jinks. 
 
 Some writers declare that certain varieties should make 
 their break on stated dates, and that the buds should be 
 secured at a specified time. This may be, of course, if 
 the weather and other conditions are favourable, but not 
 otherwise. When a bud shows a lit tile too early it may 
 be temporarily held in check by retaining a few of the top 
 shoots for a while, but not until the shoots get so hard 
 that one has to use a knife to cut them off. In that case 
 it will be found that they have been taking the strength 
 from the buds. Any plants which do not show the bud 
 by the required time may be watered with water at a 
 temperature up to 100 degrees, although this method 
 should only be resorted to in very extreme cases, and 
 should be employed when the thermometer is at the highest 
 point on hot days. 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN 6-INCH POTS. 33 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN 6-INCH POTS. 
 
 Dwarf chrysanthemums are now grown in all parts of 
 the United Kingdom, and in recent years so many 
 naturally dwarf varieties have been raised that it would 
 be an easy matter to form a large group composed of 
 plants none of which stand over four feet, while the front 
 could be faced with plants from 18 to 24 inches high in 
 6-inch pots. 
 
 Methods of Culture. 
 
 There are a number of methods which may be pursued 
 in the production of these handsome dwarf specimens. 
 The first is to insert the cuttings at the beginning of 
 April, in boxes, so that a square of glass can be laid over 
 them to keep them close until rooted (a herring-box is a 
 capital thing). The box may be placed in a greenhouse or 
 cold frame. Fill it half-full of soil, the same as that re- 
 commended for cuttings (see Chapter II.), and dibble the 
 cuttings in lines, with a small label to each. As soon as 
 they are nicely rooted, pot them off into 3-in. pots. When 
 they are six inches high take out the point to make them 
 break, and when the pots are well filled with roots (which 
 will be towards the beginning of July), a shift should be 
 made into 6-in. pots. Pot tolerably firmly, using the same 
 kind of soil as recommended for final potting. One shoot 
 only should be allowed to grow, and the next bud which 
 appears should be secured from such kinds as Algernon 
 Davis, Beatrice May, Chs. Beckett, Frank Payne, F. S. 
 Vallis, Hoi. Mrs. Lopes, John Peed, Keith Luxford, Lady 
 Talbot, Leslie Morrison, Mrs. A. T. Miller, Pockett's Crim- 
 son, W. A. Etherington, Walter Jinks, W. Howe, and 
 W. Mease. 
 
 Another method of producing dwarf plants and per- 
 haps the best way of all is to secure some of the top 
 
34 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 
 A Plant of Master James in a 6-inch pot 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN 6-INCH POTS. 
 
 35 
 
 shoots from the exhibition plants after they have made their 
 first break in May. When they are two or three inches long 
 put them singly into small pots, keeping them close until 
 rooted; then harden off, and treat as previously directed. 
 Any plants which produce their flowers on second crowns 
 may be stopped when six inches high, but if they are first 
 
 2nd 
 Crown 
 
 1st 
 Crown 
 
 Pinched 
 here 
 
 1st 
 Crown 
 
 1st 
 Break 
 
 Plants growing in 6-inch pots. 
 
 crown varieties they will not require to 'be stopped, all that 
 is -necessary being to secure the first bud which shows. 
 
 Some Advantages or Dwarfs. 
 
 The flowers upon small plants very rarely suffer from 
 what is called damping, because the pots, being small, do 
 not hold much moisture ; besides, they are tolerably dry 
 at night, and particularly towards morning when the 
 mischief is done by the sun shining out brightly upon 
 
36 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 them and scalding the flowers in the larger pots, which 
 are loaded with moisture from the evaporation of the larger 
 body of soil. These plants will not want any stimulants 
 until the pots are full of roots. Then treat them in the 
 same way as the larger plants. Many of my readers will 
 think these small pots would require too much attention 
 in watering, but such is not the case. The large plants 
 have to be gone over at least three, and in very hot 
 weather four, times daily; but twice a day is sufficient for 
 the smaller pots, because they do not get full of roots 
 until August, and then the days begin to shorten and the 
 nights to get more dewy. A very great advantage for 
 these dw 7 arfs is that you can grow three of them in the 
 same space as one large one, and so increase, for your 
 space, the number of varieties to be produced. 
 
 There can be but one conclusion in regard to the 
 cultivation of dwarf chrysanthemums namely, that if you 
 do not try a few plants this way you ought to do so 
 forthwith, and if you once try them you will never give 
 them up. 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR DECORATION. 37 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR DECORATION. 
 
 There are many ways in which chrysanthemums may be 
 grown for decoration, according" to fancy, or the position 
 the plants have to occupy. My opinion as to the best 
 method of growing a pretty decorative plant is to insert 
 the cuttings in March, as pointed out in the last chapter, 
 and take out the points when they are established in small 
 pots. Then from the pinching take three shoots. Let 
 them grow six inches, pinch ithem once more, and allow 
 three shoots to grow from each again. Each of these nine 
 shoots should have a neat stick, and be allowed to carry 
 one flower. These will be of good quality and colour, 
 and will be sure to please. Or they 'may be left in sprays. 
 These latter will not be nearly such fine blooms, but they 
 are very useful for cutting or massing, and, by striking 
 late, the foliage is retained down to the pot if the watering 
 is carefully done. Some of these plants would require 
 7-in. pots, but some could be grow r n in 6-in. pots. 
 
 Large Specimens. 
 
 If large specimens are required they must be rooted as 
 early in December as possible, or even in November, and 
 potted on when ready. After they have grown six inches 
 take out the point ; keep them gentlly growing in every other 
 respect like show varieties. When they have grown six 
 inches stop them again, and give each shoot a small stiff 
 stake, tying them out fairly wide and evenly, for this, will 
 form the foundation of the plant. Pot them on as they re- 
 quire it so that they may receive no check, and leave three 
 shoots to each break from the pinching. When these 
 shoots are six inches long pinch them again, and from the 
 break leave three shoots to each as before. Continue the 
 stopping until Midsummer, but not later, for so many 
 
 D 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR DECORATION. 39 
 
 pinchings tend to weaken the growths, which must now 
 have time to get strong. By the end of July, or early in 
 August, they will make a natural break, when three or four 
 shoots may be left from each break. 
 
 Training the Shoots* 
 
 Great care must be taken to prevent the shoots from 
 snapping or splintering off, and the cultivator must decide 
 as to how he will secure these shoots and in what shape he 
 will train the plant. Some prefer staking them out evenly 
 all round. If this is done monster plants result from some 
 varieties, six to eight feet through. Some again train and tie 
 them all one way for going back against walls, some to 
 form large pin-cushions, some pyramids. In each case 
 they look very pretty. For training, a hoop of rather stout 
 wire must be fixed beyond the rim of the pot by securing 
 
 four sticks to the top of the pot thus 
 
 and the wire 
 
 round them. For pyramids a stout stake must be placed 
 in the centre of the pot the height required, and thin wire 
 or string stretched from the top of the stake to the circular 
 wire at regular intervals. A stiff wire hoop should be 
 placed half-way down to support these wires, or the bend- 
 ing of the shoots will pull them out of shape. Then the 
 shoots may be tied so as to distribute the points evenly 
 all over. The last tying should be done soon after the 
 buds are secured, and before the growth gets too stiff. It 
 left too late, the flowers will not grow upright, and so 
 look unnatural. When the plants are housed they should 
 have a position where the light is equally diffused all 
 round or they will draw in a one-sided way. 
 
 If the plants are to be trained to an oval or cushion 
 shape they must have several stakes evenly distributed 
 about the height required, and wire or string attached 
 from the hoop to the slicks in several places, sufficient for 
 all the shoots to be tied to. Tie them all over evenly as 
 for the pyramids. 
 
 D 2 
 
THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 EARLY FLOWERING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
 
 Since the last edition of this work was published, early 
 flowering chrysanthemums plants which are suitable for 
 
 Coacher's Crimson. 
 
 (Decorative.} 
 Early Flowering Double Chrysanthemum. 
 
EARLY FLOWERING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 4! 
 
 out-door cultivation, and which bloom in the open air 
 have become firmly established as universal favourites. 
 In the year 1904, the date to which I refer, the early 
 
 Eden; Early Pink. 
 
 (Incurving.} 
 
 Early Flowering Double Chrysanthemum. 
 
 varieties were only beginning to come into notice, but 
 nowadays they are one of the most popular flowers for 
 borders during the autumn months. The reason for this 
 
42 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 is not far to seek when it is borne in mind how prolific 
 these chrysanthemums are in producing blooms, their in- 
 finite variety of colours, and the long time the flowers last 
 when cut. Another important fact is that they are ex- 
 
 Roi des Blancs ; Early White. 
 
 (Japanese?) 
 Early Flowering: Double Chrysanthemum. 
 
 tremely easy to cultivate, and they flourish in towns as 
 well as in the heart of the country. They may be planted 
 in the kitchen-garden to make their growth in the 
 summer and afterwards dug up and potted, or planted in 
 the bed or border just before they flower, or they may be 
 
EARLY FLOWERING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
 
 43 
 
 Glory of Merstham ; Early Pink. 
 
 (Reflexed.} 
 Early Flowering: Double Chrysanthemum. 
 
44 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 shifted even while they are in full bloom. Indeed, if they 
 are given a good soaking the day before they are removed, 
 and another soaking after they are re-planted, one would 
 hardly know they had been shifted. 
 
 The early flowering chrysanthemums comprise several 
 sections, including Pompoms, Japanese and Singles. The 
 method of cultivation in all cases is the same. As the 
 former varieties are now very generally known it is need- 
 less to refer to them at length, and I will therefore deal 
 in this chapter particularly with the Singles, which can 
 now be cultivated in the open air, not only in the gardens 
 of the great, but also by the humblest cottager with only 
 a few yards of ground to spare. 
 
 How Early Singles were Obtained. 
 
 As this book is not only a guide to the cultivation of 
 chrysanthemums, but is also intended to possess historical 
 value, I may, I hope, be permitted, without over-stepping 
 the bounds of modesty, briefly to allude to the way in 
 which * the early Singles came to be introduced to the 
 horticultural world. 
 
 When I removed from Earlswood to Merstham in 1904, 
 there were only two or three single varieties of chrysanthe- 
 mums which flowered in the open by the end of September. 
 I had been so successful in raising a vast number of early 
 Japanese varieties that I determined to obtain a similar 
 result in the case of singles. The initial efforts were 
 somewhat disappointing, but by dint of perseverance I 
 obtained a batch of rather weedy-looking seedlings through 
 crossing some of the October flowers with the September 
 varieties mentioned above. Included in the seedlings was 
 one which I subsequently named Surrey, which was the 
 best of the lot. This I crossed with Mabel Goacher. The 
 result surprised all anticipations, flowers of amazing 
 numbers and of infinite variety o<f shape and colouring 
 being produced. Thus within three years I was able to 
 plant out 20,000 early flowering singles at the Merstham 
 Nurseries, all these chrysanthemums being grown specially 
 
EARLY FLOWERING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 45 
 
 New Early Single ; grown and flowered seven months from sowing 
 
 the seed. 
 
4 6 
 
 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 for seed. If was this experiment on my part at hybridising 
 which resulted in the introduction of early flowering 
 singles, and it is safe to say that this new departure is 
 
 Spray of Early Flowering Single, Kate Carter. 
 
 destined to revolutionise the business of chrysanthemum 
 growing. These light, graceful flowers, which are 
 especially suitable for decorative purposes, have leaped into 
 
EARLY FLOWERING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 47 
 
 Spray of Early Flowering: Single, Firebrand. 
 
48 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 public favour, and are certain to increase in popularity as 
 time goes on. Early flowering singles may now be re- 
 garded as an annual as well as a perennial. Seeds were 
 offered for sale by me for the first time in January, 
 1909, and many growers w T ho sowed the seeds in February, 
 and bedded the plants in the same way as asters, were 
 able to cut sprays of chrysanthemums in July. From this 
 time until the blooms are cut down by the frost a plentiful 
 supply can always be depended on. 
 
 Propagation. 
 
 In dealing with the cultivation of all kinds of early 
 flowering chrysanthemums, including singles, it is neces- 
 sary to begin with the preparation of the ground they are 
 to occupy. During the winter months trenching or deep 
 digging should be carried out so that the soil may become 
 pulverised by the frost. Plenty of manure should be 
 applied. If the ground is very light or sandy, I should 
 advise the use of cow manure, but otherwise stable 
 manure is preferable. Although it is a fact that 
 chrysanthemums will thrive almost anywhere, still, to 
 obtain the best results, it is essential that due regard 
 should be paid to these matters ; and if, when digging, 
 some vaporite or kill-grub is worked into the soil, con- 
 siderable trouble will be avoided later on. 
 
 There are various methods of propagation. The best 
 way is to lift one or two stools of each variety after they 
 have flowered, and put them into a cool green-house or 
 frame, keeping the stool fairly dry and well ventilated. 
 When the cuttings are two or three inches high in 
 February, March, or April they may be taken off and 
 rooted in the ordinary way, i.e., dibbled into boxes of 
 sandy soil, fairly close together. Watering should be 
 done with a fine rose, and the cuttings should be put into 
 a rather close house, heated to about 45 degrees, but if 
 the temperature runs up to 60 degrees on sunny days it 
 will do no harm. 
 
 In about five or six weeks the cuttings will have rooted, 
 when they should be moved into a cooler house, or frame, 
 
EARLY FLOWERING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
 
 49 
 
 and will need more air to harden them off. When hardened 
 they rniay be planted about two or three inches apart in a 
 cold frame, or in a sheltered place, where they can be pro- 
 
 A Box of Plants ready for planting in the open ground. 
 
 tected from frost or snow until the time arrives for planting 
 out, although my own practice is, generally, to plant 
 straight from the boxes into the open ground. 
 
50 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 Another way by which propagation may be done is to 
 leave the suckers on the old stools until they become 
 rooted, and then plant them out about the middle or end 
 of April, but as such plants invariably grow taller than 
 those from cuttings, wherever possible the former method 
 is to be preferred. 
 
 If the weather should become very dry after planting, 
 it ;as advisable to give the chrysanthemums at least one 
 good soaking. But it is surprising how soon they begin 
 to make fibrous roots if the ground is in good condition. 
 
 About the middle or end of June, or as soon as the 
 plants become established, take the points out to make 
 them bushy; in fact, they should all be "stopped" to 
 within four or six inches of the ground. 
 
 Planting Out. 
 
 At the Merstham Nurseries, as we require to set out 
 from 80,000 to 100,000 plants every year, we are obliged 
 to work on a larger scale than that o<f the ordinary grower, 
 but as our method can be employed with advantage in 
 comparatively small gardens, the particulars may be of 
 interest. 
 
 A few days before we begin planting out we prepare a 
 galvanised wire line and run it out straight along a fence 
 where it can be easily measured. We mark the fence at 
 distances of 18 inches apart, put a spot of paint on the wire 
 opposite each mark, and then tie some fine tar string at 
 each paint spot, twisting it round the wire two or three 
 times. Afterwards the string is painted over and left to 
 dry for a few days. In this way a line is obtained which 
 will not shrink with the wet nor stretch in the sun, and it 
 is almost everlasting. 
 
 When preparing for planting, first put down a guide 
 line, which should remain, and be kept quite taut. Then 
 square the planting line with one knot about an inch over 
 the guide line, and put out the plants with a trowel op- 
 posite each knot. Care should be taken not to touch the 
 planting line with the trow r el, for if it is pushed aside each 
 
EARLY FLOWERING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
 
 I 
 
32 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 time the row will become bowed. For this reason never 
 plant within an inch of the line, so as to keep it straight. 
 Every fifth row should be left out, leaving beds of four 
 rows, with a path where the fifth row would have been. 
 
 Hoeing and Staking* 
 
 When planting is carried out in this way the rows of 
 chrysanthemums will appear straight from whatever point 
 one looks. Another advantage is that the important busi- 
 ness of hoeing can be easily and expeditiously performed. 
 I should recommend anyone who has more than ten rods 
 of ground to buy a Planet hoe, which can be run up and 
 down between the rows and also across the rows. This 
 should be done immediately after planting has been 
 finished, as it gives the ground a neat appearance and 
 also loosens the soil and prevents it drying and cracking 
 as quickly as would otherwise be the case. This system 
 of hoeing is also to be recommended whenever weeding re- 
 quires to be done. We rarely use hand hoes at Merstham, 
 unless weeds get too close and plentiful, for the wheel 
 hoes may be run within an inch of the plants until they 
 get large. A good motto is " never let a weed get large 
 enough to seed." 
 
 Staking should be commenced as soon as the shoots are 
 large enough to tie, or a very heavy rain may break off 
 some of them. It is a good plan to place the sticks about 
 two inches from the plant, and always in the straight line of 
 planting. When staking it is best to use sticks which 
 will be a little below the flower heads when the plants are 
 in bloom, or else the flowers may get dashed against them 
 by the wind and be bruised. 
 
 It is essential that the shoots should be kept securely 
 tied before the plants flower, for the rough winds and heavy 
 rains of September try the sticks and ties ; if the latter 
 are at all weakly the plants get blown down and hope- 
 lessly injured, and thus a whole season's work will be 
 wasted. This is one of the lessons which dilatory people 
 learn after their first season. 
 
EARLY FLOWERING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 53 
 
 I 
 
54 
 
 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 SINGLE CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR POT CULTURE. 
 
 Within the last few years single chrysanthemums have 
 become universally popular, and are admired everywhere. 
 They are so graceful and light that for vases or table 
 decoration they have few equals, especially during the 
 autumn and dull winter months. I have raised and dis- 
 tributed a good many singles, although a few years ago 
 I was told to throw them on the rubbish heap, as there 
 was "not enough money in them." However, I felt cer- 
 tain that others would come to see them as I did, so I 
 persevered, and now we sell as many singles as we do 
 Japanese. It is a pity to disbud the small singles, 
 although with some of the larger flowering kinds one good 
 perfect flower is preferable to what would otherwise be a 
 cluster of deformed blooms crowding each other out of 
 shape. 
 
 When raising singles for distribution I generally select 
 those with the flowers nicely separated on the spray (as 
 shown in the illustrations of Kate Carter and Firebrand), 
 rather than those which have all the flowers close together 
 at the top, although the latter are generally the best for 
 disbudding to one flower on a stem. 
 
 From July to February. 
 
 Some sorts of single chrysanthemums begin flowering 
 in July; others follow on, and flowers can be had up to 
 the end of February. When cut, certain varieties will 
 shoot out below, give a number of small sprays, and keep 
 flowering away for some time. These can be grown in 
 many ways as bush plants, or as trained specimens, in 
 the same way that I have advised for others. I would 
 recommend all who have a few spare feet of ground to 
 plant singles for cut flowers out of doors; or they may be 
 lifted and plunged in the greenhouse, or potted and 
 brought in after the large flowering ones are over. 
 
SINGLE CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR POT CULTURE. 55 
 
56 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 Singles need not be propagated early say in March. 
 Plant them out in any odd spaces which require filling up, 
 
 A Single Variety Stopped for the First Time. 
 
 but not under trees. They will stand a few degrees of 
 frost. Each plant will require a stake. Pinch them 
 occasionally if they are making long breaks, and loop 
 
SINGLE CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR POT CULTURE. 
 
 57 
 
 them to the stake to prevent the wind from blowing them 
 about. This is nearly all that one need trouble about. 
 
 A Single Variety Stopped for the Second Time. 
 
 How to Grow Singles. 
 
 The best way to grow singles is to root them in March ; 
 pot them when rooted ; pinch them when five or six inches 
 
58 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 high ; leave three shoots to grow about five or six inches ; 
 then pinch again, and leave three shoots to each as before. 
 Let these grow, and you will get a plant in a y-in. pot (which 
 is quite large enough) with nine lovely sprays. If you want 
 large flowers, disbud them to one on each shoot. But the 
 small flowers look better in sprays. Some varieties are 
 very dwarf, and only grow from eighteen inches to two feet. 
 Miss Rose, Miss Mary Anderson, and many of the small 
 sorts, are better left with as many shoots as they will 
 carry, and they will be a mass of bloom. Singles should 
 always be let go on to the terminal bud, for you then get 
 the natural colour and pure singile flower. If they are 
 taken on the crown, or second crown, the colour is not 
 good, and you sometimes get semi-double flowers. 
 
 Very dwarf plants can be had by rooting four cuttings in 
 a 4-in. pot in July. Tops of growing plants are best. 
 Leave them to grow and flower in these pots. Do not 
 disbud them, and you will get pretty little plants less than 
 a foot high. ' 
 
 After Flowering. 
 
 When your large Japs have finished flowering and you 
 want a little more show, dig up some bushes of singles 
 from the open ground and pot them. Water them in ; 
 sprinkle them overhead once or twice to prevent flagging, 
 and you will soon have another display, which will be an 
 entire change; indeed, I very much doubt if they will not 
 be more appreciated even than the large flowering varieties. 
 But it is quite probable that they will be affording you so 
 many cut flowers in the open that you will not want to 
 dig them up. However, if a sharp frost should occur, it 
 would be as well to put a few sticks amongst them, and 
 hang mats over them, although they will stand five or six 
 degrees of frost and look none the worse for it in the 
 morning. 
 
 I have more than once taken first prize at the old 
 Aquarium at Westminster with singles which I cut from 
 the open ground without any protection the second week 
 in December. 
 
I 
 
60 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII, 
 
 POMPOMS AND ANEMONES. 
 
 Pompom chrysanthemums should be grown in a similar 
 way to the large flowering varieties, but they should not 
 be rooted before January. Grow about eight or nine on 
 a plant ; an 8-in. pot will be quite large enough. The 
 buds will not require to be secured until quite the end of 
 August, or up to the middle of September, as terminal 
 buds produce the best flow r ers. Crown buds come too 
 coarse, and are devoid of that bright colour which ter- 
 minals have. 
 
 When grown for specimen plants, pompoms require the 
 same treatment as decorative or single varieties. For 
 conservatory decoration they may be rooted later, say, the 
 end of March or even up to the end of April, and nice 
 plants may be grown in from five to six inch pots. The 
 treatment is the same as for single varieties. 
 
 Anemone Chrysanthemums* 
 
 These are not grown to nearly the same extent that they 
 were before the singles came so much into favour, and 
 the showing of flowers on boards went out of fashion. Very 
 few people would attempt to pack anemones in a case and 
 expect them to come out perfect for a show, for if two or 
 three guard petals are bruised or pulled out, the beauty of 
 trie flower has gone. Nevertheless, there are a few of 
 the stiff-stemmed kinds which make very pretty pot plants, 
 and are also effective in sprays. The treatment should be 
 the same as for singles. 
 
 A few good ones for bush plants are Descartes, Mrs. C. 
 J. Salter, La Marguerite, Mrs. Caterer, Mrs. Shimmins, 
 and Fabian de Mediana. 
 
THE HOUSING OF PLANTS. 6 1 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE HOUSING OF PLANTS. 
 
 Housing the plants should be completed by the end of 
 September, as it is not wise to run any risk after having 
 got so far. In low-lying districts the plants must be 
 housed a little sooner than those on the hills, fogs and 
 early frosts being more troublesome. 
 
 Every grower has to arrange his plants according to 
 the accommodation at his disposal ; therefore that must be 
 a matter left pretty much to himself. But, having cleaned 
 the house, next clean the plants by taking off all decayed 
 or partly-decayed leaves, and tap the plants well with the 
 hand to dislodge any caterpillars or earwigs, and syringe 
 or sprav them to check mildew, etc. 
 
 Begin the housing by taking the tallest plants in first, 
 for a gale may come on and make sad havoc among them 
 at any time, and, of course, the tallest suffer most. Any 
 that have shown colour should first be put under cover ; 
 then the matter of arrangement afterwards is greatly 
 simplified. It is no use advising every grower to havo 
 his blooms about a foot (or any particular distance) from 
 the glass, because the flowers are grown for the enjoyment 
 of the cultivators, and they must be so placed that they 
 may be seen to the best advantage. The individual blooms 
 should be tied out to prevent contact with each other when 
 fully expanded, as such contact would greatly mar their 
 symmetry. If the flowers have weak stems a slight stick 
 should be tied close under the bud, and down the stem, 
 so as 'to keep them erect, especially if they are for exhibi- 
 tion, for then the flowers open much more evenly. If, 
 when housing, any varieties show signs of being a little 
 too early, they must be placed in the coolest and most 
 shady spot; or if not early enough, moved to the warmest 
 one. Either of these arrangements may make a differ- 
 ence of a day or two one way or the other, but not more. 
 
62 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 Fumigation and Ventilation. 
 
 After the house (or each house) is filled, and the foliage 
 is perfectly dry, choose a still night, and shut the house 
 
 Alice Lemon. 
 
 up close, any time after the sun is off the glass, and give 
 it a thoroughly good smoking with Auto-shreds. The 
 
THE HOUSING OF PLANTS. 
 
 ventilators should be opened again as soon as all the 
 fumes have cleared away, or from four to five hours 
 afterwards. 
 
 Howard Could (syn. Bessie G. Payne). 
 
 After the plants are housed, the top ventilators should 
 not be closed, except for smoking the plants or to keep 
 out heavy fogs; but the side ventilators should be shut 
 
64 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 at night or on foggy days, to prevent the damp air from 
 drawing in at the bottom and going out at the top, 
 resting on the blooms midway. This is what happens if 
 the side ventilators are not closed. It is better to put on 
 a little fire-heat, so that the plants may have a small 
 amount of warmth and plenty of air at the top. A slight 
 shading when the flowers are opening is beneficial, 
 especially to the dark coloured varieties. There should 
 be no danger of damping, or scalding that is, if the 
 watering is done carefully and before mid-day. 
 
 Riicl Manuring. 
 
 The watering should be done by mid-day, and certainly 
 not after three o'clock, so that everything may be dry 
 before dark. The plants want very little water for .a few 
 days after they are housed. In fact, it makes one feel as 
 if something were going wrong with them, so persistently 
 damp do they keep, especially those in large pots ; but 
 patience will bring everything right. Some cultivators 
 say, " Do not use any stimulant for a few days after the 
 plants are taken indoors." This is quite right, since the 
 stimulant is given in water, and, as I have said, they re- 
 quire scarcely any water. From the tiriHe they are housed 
 I use nothing but a little pure Peruvian guano not more 
 than a teaspoonful to two gallons of water. This I use 
 at each watering. It is of a more drying nature than any- 
 thing else I know. Any kind of manure containing salt, 
 or which will create moisture, should be carefully used 
 after housing; and I would advise those who have not a 
 thorough knowledge of the constituents of manures to use 
 guano. This may be applied until the flowers are half 
 expanded. 
 
 Show Blooms* 
 
 If any blooms are required for show, and are likely to be 
 a week too soon, cut them two days before they are fully 
 out. They will come up if they are put in water, and 
 placed in a dry, semi-dark, cool place. They should be 
 
THE HOUSING OF PLANTS. 6^ 
 
 cut with long stems. Strip off all the leaves, put the 
 stems into glass bottles, nearly full of water, and use 
 wadding to prevent evaporation from the bottles. It is 
 much easier to keep a flower a week than it is to push it to 
 gain a day. Chrysanthemums do not like being forced. 
 
 A flower is at its best when it has all the centre florets 
 well up and none of the lower florets have began to decay. 
 To obtain this result should be the aim of each exhib'tor, 
 and if the flowers are in other respects well grown there 
 will not be much to fear. But with Japs it is better if 
 necessity arise to pull out a few short undeveloped florets 
 from the centre, provided that there are plenty left to shake 
 into their places, rather than lose the long, drooping, lower 
 petals from decay. With incurveds it is different. If 
 their centres are not pretty welll up, the half-grown petals 
 have to be removed and the core gouged out, also, in order 
 to get the long florets to meet in the centre with a view 
 to the manufacture of a good bloom out of half of one. 
 But flowers so manipulated never gain high honours. 
 Unless an exhibitor is hard pressed for a bloom to make 
 up his number, such immature specimens are better left 
 on the plants, either for a future show or for decorative 
 purposes. 
 
66 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 STAGING FLOWERS FOR EXHIBITION. 
 
 The staging of flowers for exhibition has now become a 
 fine art, and there seems a great diversity of views on the 
 matter. My humble opinion is that everything should be 
 made as easy as possible for competitors ; for whatever 
 arrangements may be decided upon by committees to 
 make a show look artistic and attractive to the public, the 
 exhibitor should have the first consideration. As a rule, the 
 latter, when he is a member of a show r committee, remains 
 silent when questions affecting exhibitors are discussed for 
 fear of being regarded as an interested party, and he 
 remains inactive when the time arrives to send in his 
 entries if the conditions have been made too hard. This 
 explains why growers often fail to support the local chry- 
 santhemum show T . As previously mentioned, I would 
 rather see 12 or more entries in classes for 24 distinct 
 varieties, than the same number of entries for eight 
 trebles, whether on boards or in vases. The same may 
 be said respecting amateur classes for six or twelve 
 varieties. Indeed, it would be easier for amateurs to 
 show ai certain number of distinct varieties than the same 
 number of flowers in trebles, and there would be three 
 times the number of varieties for the public to inspect, 
 including probably a few "novelties." When invited to 
 compete for trebles an exhibitor cannot afford to speculate 
 in novelties. 
 
 The Method or Staging. 
 
 In staging flowers for exhibition there are three things 
 in particular to be considered. They are as follows : 
 
 Firstly, clean, bright, deep-green boards, enamelled 
 some days previous to the show. 
 
 Secondly, the colours of the flowers must be nicely 
 blended, so as not to get two of one colour together. Try 
 
STAGING FLOWERS FOR EXHIBITION. 67 
 
 to arrange the colours so that each bloom will brighten 
 and show up its neighbour. It may be useful to remem- 
 ber that colour is greatly heightened by contrast, and that 
 artists in their pictures secure the greatest brilliancy of 
 colour by the observance of this rule. The contrasting 
 colours are red and green, orange and blue, yellow and 
 purple. Place a yellow and a purple chrysanthemum side 
 by side. The longer you look at them the more yellow 
 will the yellow appear, the more purple the purple. 
 
 Thirdly, see that the board is pretty evenly filled, so as 
 not to get 'two small flowers together, or two large ones. 
 Different exhibitors have different opinions about staging 
 their flowers. Some put all drooping flowers in the front 
 row, all the monsters at the back, and the weakest 
 flowers in the middle row, thinking, perhaps, they will 
 not be noticed so much if they are hidden a little. But 
 do not try -to deceive the judge. He is bound to find the 
 worst as well as the best flowers. 
 
 Cutting Blooms aticl Cupping. 
 
 Flowers are better if cut in the morning, before the 
 sun strikes them. Stems about a foot or more in length 
 should be left to them. Strip off all the leaves and put 
 the stems into bottles of water, or something that will 
 keep them upright. They may then be cupped up at your 
 leisure during the day. This should be done in a rather 
 cool, but dry, place. 
 
 Before you commence cutting the blooms, it is as well 
 to look round and see what .blooms are ready. Dot out 
 your board on a piece of paper, with the number of 
 flowers you want, e.g., twelve dots to represent the holes. 
 At each hole put the name of the flower with which you 
 intend to fill it. This will save you cutting more blooms 
 than are actually required ; but at the same time an extra 
 bloom should always be taken with each dozen, in case of 
 an accident, and this should be different from any on the 
 board. In cupping the flowers do not press the florets 
 up to try to gain width for them, because from a show 
 
68 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 point what you gain in width you lose in depth, and depth 
 is more valuable than breadth ; for the most graceful 
 bloom is that possessing handsome drooping florets. 
 
 The size of any cup or wire must not exceed three inches. 
 If 'the flowers have grown upright and evenly they will not 
 require anything but the cups under them; but if they 
 have grown one-sided, a small splint must be run up close 
 under the flower, and tied tightly to the stem. For 
 plugging the flowers in the cups I cut pieces of the stem 
 into wedges about two inches long. When each flower is 
 cupped, it should be put into the water-tube, and placed in 
 its position on the board, and so on with the others. When 
 all are so far ready, a little re-arrangement may be neces- 
 sary to make each bloom appear at its best; for if you 
 have really good specimens it is a pity to lose a point by 
 bad arrangement. On the other hand, if your blooms are 
 not really first-class, you may win a point by setting them 
 out to the best advantage. And at any rate, if you do not 
 obtain premier honours you will gain satisfaction and 
 possibly some benefit by taking a good survey of all the 
 First Prize exhibits, and go home with a determine 1 "' on 
 to do better another year. 
 
 Entering at Shows. 
 
 If it is your first attempt ,at showing, do no<t enter in a 
 larger class than you are able to manage. It may be an 
 easy matter to get twelve good blooms when it would 
 be difficult to get twenty-four. Young exhibitors should 
 not be disappointed if they do not happen to gain all First 
 Prizes at the outset. Old hands are pretty well contented 
 if they can manage to figure in the first three in a 
 strongly contested class. 
 
 Many novelties are introduced each year. Some are 
 really grand, and add materially to an exhibit ; but exhibi- 
 tors must not run away wi'th the idea that merely because 
 they have new varieties they .are of necessity going to 
 gain extra points, unless the specimens are superior to 
 older varieties. A badly grown novelty will not compare 
 with an older variety well grown. 
 
STAGING FLOWERS FOR EXHIBITION. 69 
 
 Chrysanthemums in Vaaes* 
 
 The exhibition of large Japanese and Incurved chrysan- 
 themums in vases has become very popular with 'many 
 societies for staging- their flowers. It may be an improve- 
 ment when the blooms are properly arranged with vessels 
 proportionate in size to the flowers, and plenty of foliage 
 drooping quite down to or below the top of the vase. But 
 taste and judgment are necessary. To .see three or more 
 large flowers stuck into a small vase, and, perhaps, stood 
 upon lattice-work stages, or, maybe, the flowers so 
 crushed together that they do not show to advantage, 
 is not the way to display the blooms ; on the contrary, the 
 use of boards would be a better way of exhibiting them. 
 
 In arranging chrysanthemums in large vases one must 
 bear in mind that if it should be a show of more than one 
 day's duration the flower stems will! not supply sufficient 
 sap to keep the bloom and foliage from flagging, especially 
 in a warm dry atmosphere ; therefore it is (or should be) 
 admissible to strip the foliage from the stem which bears 
 the flower, and tie another stem with foliage to 
 the flower stem. By this means one stem will supply 
 the flower and the other the foliage with sufficient water 
 or sap to keep each fresh for two or even three days. 
 
 Some Remarks on Grouping. 
 
 A few words on grouping may not be out of 
 place, although I cannot point to any marked general 
 improvement since my last book appeared. The 
 group illustrated on page 59 was one which took 
 the large gold medal at the Crystal Palace in November, 
 1909. It will be noticed that there are no straight lines 
 anywhere in the group, but that the blooms are arranged so 
 that, while each one is clearly displayed, the whole effect is 
 artistic and effective. 
 
THE CULTURE OP THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 HOW TO PACK CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
 
 Packing large flowers on long stems for travelling is un- 
 doubtedly a question which puzzles many exhibitors. In 
 
 Exhibition Flower Ready for Packing for Show. 
 
 America and France all chrysanthemums are shown with 
 long stems, and I have seen some novel methods of pack- 
 ing the flowers. I have taken flowers long distances, and I 
 
HOW TO PACK CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 71 
 
 have packed them to travel to the Continent, and even as 
 far as America ! The last-mentioned were despatched from 
 our nurseries on a Friday, and left Liverpool on the Satur- 
 day; and the following Saturday afternoon they were ex- 
 hibited in a great show in New York. I was assured 
 that when displayed they looked as fresh as if they had 
 been packed only the day before. On another occasion 
 some of my flowers were exhibited after being packed 
 eleven days. 
 
 The best method of packing flowers which are intended 
 to travel a llong distance may be briefly described as 
 follows : 
 
 When the flowers are quite dry, viz., when there is no 
 dampness upon them, take each one and hold it bloom 
 downwards. If you are obliged to pack unassisted, hold 
 the stem between your teeth. Then take a sheet of tissue 
 paper, tear it nearly in half, and put the paper over the 
 flower. In doing this draw all the petals together just 
 close enough that they will not move. Then twist the 
 paper lightly over the top of the bloom, and lay the flower 
 gently in the box so that it cannot move. I may say that 
 when the papering operation is finished, and before laying 
 it in the box, I always sharpen the stem slightly, taking 
 oft" all knots, and slip it into one of my patent water 
 tubes. This supplies sufficient water to keep the flowers 
 fresh for a long journey. 
 
72 THE CULTURE OF THE ' CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR MARKET. 
 
 The growing of chrysanthemums for market is a ques- 
 tion of s. d. more than anything else, and is a very 
 serious matter for beginners who know little or nothing 
 of the trade. Chrysanthemums are produced by the acre 
 by some growers, being planted out in the open, whilst 
 others raise them by thousands in pots, and try aill manner 
 of schemes to get the produce a week, or even a few days, 
 earlier or 'later than their neighbours. Such growers are 
 keen men of business, and are always on the look-out for 
 any really good, bright-coloured varieties, and are pre- 
 pared to pay a long price for them, too. Furthermore, the 
 classes of customers for whom they grow them differ con- 
 siderably, and the various markets differ as much. 
 
 There is no doubt but that many of the best markets 
 qan take an enormous quantity of first-class flowers, and 
 these are generally fairly remunerative. By first-class 
 I mean good, bright, distinct colours, disbudde'd to speci- 
 men blooms and nicely packed, so that they look as fresh 
 when taken out of the boxes as when they were despatched. 
 Many people grow their flowers well and spoil them in 
 packing. 
 
 Generally speaking, the " rough and tumble " produce 
 is left on the market until the last, being eventually sold 
 to costers at a clear-out figure, thus bringing a very low 
 price to the grower. 
 
 Good Colouring. 
 
 Do not grow a lot of washy, dirty colours, which are 
 neither whites, pinks, reds, nor any other shade ; but grow 
 the best whites, pure pinks, reds, crimsons, gold, bronze, 
 or yellows. These distinct colours are sure to suit some 
 of your customers. Do not grow varieties that want a 
 stick to each flower to keep it upright. 
 
 Again, if you want your flowers to pay they must be 
 good too. Medium class stuff is always plentiful and 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR MARKET. 73 
 
 cheap, and an over-supply is generally on hand. But ^it 
 a florist has something really choice on show, good in 
 colour and a fair size, he can command a good price for 
 it, sufficient to allow of a profit for himself and the 
 grower as well. And the latter soon gets applications for 
 a fresh and regular supply, and so a profitable agreement 
 is come to between them. For the best florists do not 
 depend entirely upon the markets, but prefer to procure 
 their flowers direct from the growers, thereby receiving 
 them in the freshest possible condition. 
 
 How to Grow Market Varieties. 
 
 We must commence with early flowering varieties. 
 When these have done flowering a sufficient quantity of the 
 old stock should be dug up. Cut the old stems to within 
 six inches of the ground; clean away decayed leaves, or 
 anything which may cause decay. Put these pretty closely 
 together in frames, or the end of a cold house, or any 
 place where they can be kept above freezing-point. In 
 February take the cuttings which have grown clean away. 
 Do not grub them out of the soil. A cutting two inches 
 long is ample. Dibble these (not too thickly) into boxes of 
 fine soil and a little sand. Place them in a gentle heat, 
 and sprinkle them to keep them from flagging. They 
 will speedily make root. As soon as they are rooted, and 
 before they begin to run, stand them out into cold frames. 
 Keep these closed for a few days. Then begin to allow 
 air, and when they show signs of growing 
 take out their points. Give them air on all favourable 
 occasions in abundance. They will stand in these boxes 
 until April or May, and become nice little sturdy plants. 
 
 Towards the end of April the ground where these are 
 intended to be planted should be got ready for the opera- 
 tion. Many growers draw out drills as if for planting 
 peas (about 18 inches apart), and pllace the plants in these. 
 They are thus sheltered somewhat from the wind. 
 
 By the beginning of May planting may commence in 
 earnest where large batches have to be put in, and they 
 should be planted 15 or 18 inches apart in the rows. It is 
 
74 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 better to plant them in beds of four or six rows, leaving 
 three-feet pathways between the beds. 
 
 Plants in Pots. 
 
 For plants which are intended to -be grown in pots, soil 
 should be used similar to that which is recommended for 
 other work (see Chap. XIII., " Soil for Potting ") But 
 that which has grown cucumbers the previous season has of 
 necessity to be substituted by florists. When this is ready 
 you may get a box of plants. Tap each side on the bench 
 to loosen the roots from the sides all round. Toss the 
 plants clean out of the box on to your soil on the bench. 
 Each plant can then be taken off with quite a nice ball, 
 and the roots will draw out without injury. Pot them 
 fairly firmly (I need not go through all the crocking pro- 
 cess, florists know how to do that) ; 6-in. pots should be 
 used for the best, and 5-in. for the next best plants. The 
 worst should t>e thrown away. When potted, stand them 
 close together in a cold frame; or they may be protected 
 out of doors if frames are scarce. Give them a good 
 watering with the rose on the can. Shade them a little 
 for a few days if the sun is very bright. Cold, cutting 
 winds are their worst enemies ; they give them a check, and 
 these checks are favourable to insects. Whether the 
 plants are in or out of frames they should not be shaded 
 sufficiently to draw them, but they should be brought up 
 as hardily as possible. They will stand six or eight de- 
 grees of frost, especially if they are somewhat dry. Do 
 not water in the afternoons if it can be avoided. 
 
 Take the points out of the plants when they are about 
 six inches high. By the middle of May the plants should 
 be stood out in beds, six rows wide, allowing two or 
 three inches from pot to pot each way. If they 
 can be stood on ashes or boards, so much the 
 better; but if not, clear lime water should be used 
 'occasionally to keep out worms. Do not leave more 
 than three shoots to each plant. A stake two feet 
 long should be put to each, and these shoots should be 
 tied to it. In case a sharp frost occurs these stakes will 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR MARKET. 
 
 75 
 
 come in useful for hanging tiffany over, or mats, or any- 
 thing which will break the frost. 
 
 About the middle of June pot into the flowering-pots. 
 Nine-inch pots will be quite large enough for the best ; 
 
 Vase of Decorative Varieties. 
 
 Names (reading from left to right) : 
 
 Back row MRS. W. A. READ, NEAPOLITAN, HILDA KATHLEEN- 
 
 Middle row MRS. D. SYME, MRS. BUCKBEE, Miss A. FINCH. 
 
 Bottom row KARA Dow. 
 
76 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 eight inches for the others. If the soil can be made as good 
 as that recommended for the large flowering (or show) 
 varieties, I would advise it; but the turfy loam has 
 generally by florists to be displaced by a substitute from 
 the old soil heap. If this has been turned over and got 
 pretty well frosted it answers the purpose. By the soil 
 heap I mean the old cucumber soil or anything which has 
 been turned out of pots and thrown into a heap and has 
 lain for a time. Such soil can easily be enriched by a 
 little rotten manure, a few ground bones, and a good 
 sprinkling of lime and soot. This should be prepared not 
 later than February or March, and it will be ready when 
 the busy time comes. For twenty to fifty cartloads of stuff 
 cannot be prepared so easily in May or June as it can in 
 winter, and it does not do to leave things till the last 
 minute. In fact, it is much better to get the compost 
 mixed a few months too soon than leave it until too late. 
 
 Placed in Row a* " ur 
 
 The pots should have good drainage, and the plants be 
 potted pretty firmly, or they will develop sappy growth at 
 once. This never gives good flowers. When potted, they 
 may be stood in beds four rows wide, but they must be 
 six inches from pot to pot each way. If room can be spared 
 I would advise only two rows. Each row must be wired 
 and staked, and if the pots can be stood on ashes or boards 
 so much the better, otherwise the roots get into the soil 
 below and they receive a check when they are torn away. 
 After the plants have made the next break, three or four 
 shoots may be left to each ; later, or the last break, three 
 again. Then you get from two to three dozen flowers on 
 a plant ; but if you want them extra large do not leave so 
 many. The last growths must be disbudded to one flower 
 on a shoot. Of course, watering must be attended to ; 
 but I would advise that all plants be kept rather on the dry 
 side than be over- watered. I would not recommend feed- 
 ing before the last growth begins ; but then you may feed 
 liberally, for it will add wonderfully to the colour as well 
 as the size of the blooms. Florists very rarely have any 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR MARKET. 77 
 
 trouble with flowers damping because they generally leave 
 them to the terminal bud. In this way they get good 
 cdlours. Bad colours would not sell. 
 
 If pot plants are wanted they may be rooted later and 
 pinched about twice. They may be grown in 6-in. pots, 
 or even 5-in. ; but dwarf and free-flowering varieties must 
 be selected. 
 
 Anything that the plants require must 'be done, and that 
 in the cheapest possible way. Every row must be wired, 
 and each plant have a good stake about the height it will 
 grow to, and this must be tied to the wire. It will save 
 time in the autumn and prevent the plants from getting 
 blown about. All the growths can be looped to one stake, 
 but not bundled together. It is better not to grow, more 
 plants than can be attended to thoroughly. After the buds 
 are secured the plants may be rather liberally supplied" with 
 liquid manure water ; anything will do, only change the 
 nature of it occasionally. 
 
 Why Good Plants Pay Best. 
 
 Now for comparison. It would take a (large plant from 
 which to pick, say, three market-bunches raised in their 
 natural grow-as-they-like style. In mid-season such 
 flowers would be a drug in the market at threepence a large 
 bunch, and in all likelihood would not fetch twopence, and 
 perhaps not sell at all. Xhen you blame your salesman. 
 He cannot help it. But send the same flowers grown as 
 I advise above to the same salesman, and he will sell them 
 at more per flower than he would get per bunch for the 
 others and have no trouble in disposing of them. 
 
 These plants would want but very little more attention 
 than those which are grown haphazard. - The disbudding 
 during their growth entails some extra labour, which 
 would not, however, cost above one penny a plant more 
 than if they were roughly cultivated. Against this your 
 plants do not grow so tall, and they are over and done 
 with sooner; besides, you get much more credit for your 
 labour and a fairer living profit. 
 
THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 I certainly should not advise any grower to keep many 
 varieties. But of course this is a matter which rests a 
 good deal with his customers. They must be studied 
 most. But by all means try a few of the best coloured 
 newer varieties. 
 
 There is a good selection of early flowering varieties 
 which begin to bloom quite by the beginning of Septem- 
 ber. A ilist of these is printed at the end of this book. 
 
 Mrs. R. Luxford, 
 
SOIL FOR POTTING. 79 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 SOIL FOR POTTING. 
 
 With regard to soil for potting this is really the most 
 particular in the whole process of growing chrysanthe- 
 mums, for it is the foundation. I know in many places 
 potting material must be very expensive ; in fact, I find 
 it so myself. Carting soil eight or ten miles is enough 
 to run up the bill ; but even if it spells extra expense it 
 is the cheapest in the end to get the best. 
 
 The soil should be good, heavy, yellow loam, with plenty 
 of fibre in it that cut from a fine old pasture about three 
 inches thick. Cut it during the winter. Do not select land 
 where daisies grow, for they are seldom found on good 
 ground. In stacking the soil choose an elevated position 
 where the water is not likely to lie and sodden it. Flatten it 
 down, and sprinkle a quarter of an inch of soot over this 
 foundation to keep worms away. Then place a layer of the 
 sods, grass side downwards; over that about an inch of 
 nearly fresh horse-droppings ; over that just enough soot to 
 blacken it, and upon all a sprinkling of ground bones. 
 Begin again with the loam, and so on until the stack is 
 complete. It is best to draw in slightly all the way up, 
 or make a haystack-like top, so as to keep the wet from 
 penetrating too much. 
 
 The proportions should be one load of loam, a quarter 
 of a load of short manure, one bushel of soot, and half-a- 
 hundred weight of ground bones, none coarser than shot or 
 very tiny peas. These are all the materials that need be 
 stacked at this time, unless there are wire-worms in the 
 soil ; then <a sprinkle of vaporite may be added about every 
 foot. In stacking it is easy to measure the ground out 
 accurately, for a load or yard of loam is three feet square 
 twenty-seven cubic feet. Begin then as already suggested, 
 a little wider at the base than you intend to finish at the 
 top, and if the ridge shape is maintained at the top no 
 
8o THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 covering" will be required. Fermentation will proceed 
 gradually. 
 
 Soil for Final Potting. 
 
 About a fortnight or so before you commence potting, 
 chop the whole of the stack of loam to pieces in the fol- 
 lowing manner : Take cants of about a foot wide and cut 
 them through straight down with a spade. Chop the sods 
 to pieces with a very sharp hoe, by laying them grass-side 
 upwards. I have found this to be the easiest and quickest 
 way. Do not chop the turf smaller than cricket balls, for 
 it will get reduced in turning. When it is all chopped, 
 level it out a foot thick. It is then easy to measure what 
 quantity you have when it is remembered that twenty- 
 seven square feet make one cubic yard. To each yard add 
 four bushels of leaves collected the previous autumn ; a 
 barrow-load of old mortar rubbish (no pieces larger than 
 nuts), or coarse sand ; a barrow-load or two of ashes or fine 
 charcoal ; and twenty-eight pounds of artificial manure. 
 Thoroughly mix the whole of this together by turning it 
 over twice at least. Put this into a shed in a nice mound, 
 or cover it outdoors to keep off the wet, or, on the other 
 hand, prevent it from getting too dry ; and the whole mass 
 will become impregnated with the ammonia, etc., which 
 the different ingredients contain. 
 
 Advice to Amateurs. 
 
 For amateurs who do not require such large quantities 
 I would recommend one bushel of loam. To this add 
 about two gallons of rotten manure, two gallons of oak 
 or beech leaves, two gallons of old mortar rubbish or 
 charcoal, two gallons of wood ashes, half a gallon of 
 ground bones, and two pounds of artificial manure, made 
 either from blood, bones, fish, or fowl manure. If the 
 loam has not sufficient fibre a few more leaves may be 
 added, also a dash of coarse sand, making aibout two 
 bushels altogether. This quantity will be sufficient to pot 
 fifteen or sixteen plants into g-'m. pots (i6's). Various 
 makers' pots differ a little in size. 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS ON THE CONTINENT. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 CHRYSANTHEMUMS ON THE CONTINENT. 
 
 Up to the present there are not many chrysanthemums 
 grown abroad on the three-large-flowers-on-a-plant prin- 
 ciple. The bush system is mostly in vogue. But before I 
 say much about the foreign methods I must offer my 
 readers a little explanation. In the first place, I felt that 
 to visit some of the best growers abroad with whom I 
 transact business would enlighten me as to what they 
 considered the essential! points of a good chrysanthemum 
 points worthy in their estimation of a certificate because 
 we annually import an enormous quantity which are not 
 up to our standard. Tastes and climate differ, as we all 
 know, and what may be considered good across the 
 Channel may not be suitable to our climate ; or again, a 
 bloom which is prized as a lovely colour there may not be 
 just the fancy here. 
 
 It goes without saying, I think, that our greatest liking 
 is for large, graceful flowers, whilst Continental growers 
 make bush plants their chief aim. As all experienced 
 fanciers must know, the large show varieties are not 
 always adapted for bush plants. Hence some disappoint- 
 ments. But there are other marked differences besides 
 the system of cultivation adopted. Our Continental friends 
 do not exhibit their flowers on boards ; such blooms as are 
 exhibited in a cut state are shown in bottles, with a foot 
 or so of stem and foliage. A single stem is inserted in 
 a bottle, and the bottles are then pllunged into beds of 
 sand or light earth. These beds are all turfed round, and 
 each exhibitor's collection forms a flower garden. It must 
 entail an enormous lot o>f work and forethought to arrange 
 such exhibitions. 
 
 ms at the Paris Exhibition. 
 
 The chrysanthemum show at the great exhibition held 
 in Paris in 1900 was very fine, and what struck visitors 
 
82 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 most in connection with it was the resemblance the collec- 
 tions of exhibits 'bore to a tastefully laid out garden. But 
 that is the custom on the other side of the Channel at 
 nearly all chrysanthemum shows. I do not think, how- 
 ever, that I ever saw anything finer than the arrangement 
 at the Paris show referred to. The French exhibit their 
 plants and blooms in a way that gives the visitor the im- 
 pression that they have grown in the beds, cartloads of 
 sand and mould being shot down within the limits of the 
 building where the show is being held, and in this im- 
 provised garden the competitors arrange their specimens. 
 The names of the chrysanthemums are written on labels 
 attached to the stems, and it is therefore difficult when 
 walking through an exhibition to ascertain the names of 
 each flower or plant. In this respect the English practice 
 of exhibiting 'mums on tables and showing the names 
 plainly is to be preferred. 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN AMERICA. 83 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN AMERICA. 
 
 In the last edition of this work I referred to the great 
 popularity of chrysanthemums in the United States. The 
 Queen of Autumn is regarded there as supreme during 
 the fall of the year, just as it is in England and other 
 European countries. Many flowers which hold pride of 
 place during the summer months having faded at the 
 coming of the cold weather, the chrysanthemum leaps into 
 the front rank as first favourite. As the years go by it is 
 found that the enthusiasm of the Americans for chrysan- 
 themums steadily grows, and the most vivid personal im- 
 pression which I obtained during a recent visit to the 
 United States convinces me that there are untold possi- 
 bilities for the development of chrysanthemum growing 
 in the great land across the Western Ocean. 
 
 As America w 7 ill become before long a formidable rival 
 to Great Britain in the culutre of the chrysanthemum even 
 if it may not be so regarded at the present time I may per- 
 haps be permitted to introduce some observations here with 
 regard to chrysanthemum cultivation in the United States, 
 being the result of my own observations on a visit to 
 that country. 
 
 I sailed for New York on board the " Mauretania," 
 on October 23rd, 1909. In the first place, my object 
 was to redeem a longstanding promise to visit some 
 friends, and in the second place to see for myself 
 what was going forward across the Atlantic as regards 
 the introduction of new varieties of chrysanthemums, as 
 well as the methods of culture and of exhibiting blooms 
 which are generally followed there. From my friends, 
 Mr. W. Duck-ham, who is gardener to Mrs. D. Willis 
 James, of Madison, New Jersey, and , Mr. C. H. Totty, 
 also of Madison, I received a most hearty welcome, and 
 if I did not see all that there was to be seen of the social 
 side of life, and also as regard things horticultural, it was 
 
$4 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 certainly no fault of theirs. Others whom I met, and 
 whose names are household words in gardening 
 circles in America, were Dr. Ward and Mr. R. D. Foote, 
 of Madison, and Mr. E. G. Hill, whom I met after an 
 800 miles journey from New York to his place at Rich- 
 mond, Indiana. Genial, hearty, hospitable men they all 
 are, devoted to their work as horticultural enthusiasts, and 
 occupying quite the foremost place as popularisers of the 
 Queen of Autumn. I also visited the palatial gardens of 
 Mr. Howard Gould, of Castle Gould, Long Island, where 
 the gardener, Mr. H. Turner, raises most beautiful chry- 
 santhemums as well as an infinite number of other plants 
 and flowers. I noticed in these gardens that all the chry- 
 santhemum novelties in cultivation were those that had 
 been distributed by W. Wells, and I asked Mr. Turner 
 why there were no others. Modesty, however, prevents 
 me recording his reply in full, but I may say that he has 
 tried the varieties distributed by many others, and his ex- 
 perience has taught 'him that those raised by Pockett and 
 sent out from Merstham are in all respects the most trust- 
 worthy. 
 
 The Most Popular Varieties. 
 
 Mr. Hill, to whom I have referred, is well known on this 
 side of the Atlantic as the raiser of the Richmond and the 
 Rhea Read roses (his rose stock comprises upwards of a 
 million plants), but he is also a big grower of chrysan- 
 themums for exhibition and for commercial purposes. 
 Among the latter varieties may be enumerated Merza, 
 Chadwick, Eaton, Enguehard, Balfour, Monrovia, Golden 
 Eagle, and Winter Cheer. The last-named, which is 
 quite incurving, is not large enough for American require- 
 ments. I also saw in these nurseries one of the new 
 Merstham varieties, named after Mr. Hill's grand- 
 daughter, Alice Lemon, and Miss Hill assured me that the 
 blooms were quite 12 inches across. The flowers, unfortu- 
 nately, were over before my arrival. Mr. Hill's place at 
 Richmond is about 100 miles from Chicago, and English 
 readers will be interested to know that cut chrysanthe- 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN AMERICA. 5 
 
 mums which were being marketed in that city were making 
 in the wholesale markets about the middle of November, 
 from 3 to 5 dollars (125. to 2 is.) per dozen. But even 
 these prices, which are enough to make a British florist's 
 mouth water, were surpassed by what I saw in New York, 
 where good specimens were being readily disposed of in the 
 Stores at from 25. to 35. a-piece. These varieties included 
 Miriam Hankey, Merza, Appleton, and others of exhibition 
 grade, with stems from four to five feet in length. In the 
 establishment of Mr. C. H. Totty I noticed other varieties, 
 including Rose Pockett, Keith Luxford, W. Mease, Mrs. H. 
 Stevens, W. Hotston, Pockett's Surprise, Pockett's Crim- 
 son, R. F. Felton, Mrs. D. Syme, Howard Gould, and a 
 great number of singles and pompoms, which were, in all 
 respects, much better than any I have seen in England. 
 
 Forty-Four Inches Round. 
 
 The Americans attach the utmost importance to the size 
 of blooms. One which has been raised by Mr. Duckham, 
 and which he has called Onunda, measures, when well 
 grown, 44 inches in circumference ! Many other splendid 
 varieties might be enumerated, but the list would be too 
 extensive. The following, however, are entitled to special 
 mention, in addition to those already specified : Keith 
 Luxford, W. Hotston, Merza, Miss M. Hankey, Beatrice 
 May, Nellie Pockett, Cheltoni, Ben Wells, Chrysanthe- 
 mum Montigny, C. H. Totty, Frank Payne, F. S. Vallis, 
 Geo. Mileham, 1908, G. W. Pook, Lady Hopetoun, Leslie 
 Morrison, Lilian Coppard, Mary Inglis, Mary Mason, 
 Merstham Blush, Mr. T. Carrington, Mrs. E. Thirkell, 
 Mrs. H. Barnes, Mrs. H. Partridge, Mrs. John E. Dunne, 
 Mrs. Norman Davis, Mrs. O. H. Kahn, President Viger, 
 Rose Pockett, W. Duckham, Mrs. W. Duckham, J. A. 
 Miller, General Hutton, Mrs. J. C. Neill, Glenview, Mar- 
 quis V. Venosta, Australie, Brighthurst, W. M. ' Moir, 
 Louisseau Rosseau, Petite Renee, Yellow Miller, Hales 
 Seedling, Mrs. C. H. Totty, Mary Donnellan, Mrs. Geo. 
 Hunt, Goldmine, Mrs. L. Thorn, Mrs. W. Knox, Splen- 
 
 G 
 
86 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 Mrs. David Syme ; Crown and Photographed in America. 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN AMERICA. 87 
 
 Onunda ; the Largest Chrysanthemum in the World, 
 
 measuring: 44 inches round. 
 Crown and Photographed in America. 
 
 G 2 
 
88 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 dour, Clara Wells, Cbas. Beckett, Donald McLeod, Mor- 
 ton F. Plant, O. H. Broomhead, Col. D. Appleton, W. 
 Wells, W. R. Church, Mrs. S. Shaw (the Bronze Thirkell). 
 The foregoing were really magnificent. It is curious 
 to notice that Purity, The Hon. Mrs. Lopes, Splendour, 
 Master David, Master James, Sir Frank Crisp, and a few 
 other varieties which do well in Great Britain all showed 
 an eye, or had such weak stems that they were barred as 
 general favourites. The Australian varieties, raised by 
 Pockett and distributed by Wells , comprise 70 per cent, of 
 the total number of blooms exhibited at the leading shows. 
 The remaining 30 per cent, are nearly equally American, 
 French and English raised varieties. 
 
 Cultural Method*. 
 
 As regards American cultural methods, the plan generally 
 adopted is to put good cilean sand in a bench, raised a 
 couple of feet above the floor of the propagating house. The 
 sand and soil are packed to a depth of about three inches, 
 and this is kept at a temperature of from 55 to 65 degrees. 
 Steam pipes are run beneath the bench in order to raise 
 the temperature there to about 60 degrees. The cuttings, 
 which are inserted in rows in the sand about one inch apart 
 each way, root very quickly. Great care is taken to shade 
 them from the direct rays of the sun, and watering is 
 performed as often as is necessary to keep them from wilt- 
 ing. As soon as the cuttings have formed roots about an 
 inch Hong, they are placed in thumb pots (2 to 2.\ in.), and 
 when they have become established they are transferred 
 into 5-in. pots. In May or June the plants are shifted 
 into stout iboxes, each of which is capable of accommodat- 
 ing about 12, or else placed in benches raised about six inches 
 above the floor, to admit in either case of free drainage. 
 The plants for exhibition are placed in the beds or boxes 
 at a distance of ten inches or a foot each way. Syringing 
 and spraying are constantly carried out, and every effort is 
 made to maintain the temperature at a comparatively low 
 level in the hot summer. The hose is an indispensable 
 implement in American nurseries and gardens, and 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN AMERICA. 89 
 
 hydrants are used so as to economise labour as much as 
 possible. 
 
 The fundamental difference between the cultivation of 
 exhibition plants in America and in England lies 'briefly in 
 this : In America, plants make three breaks to two breaks 
 made by the same varieties in England. Propagation does 
 not begin until February, and as the plants are grown 
 indoors through the season, the .growth is much more 
 rapid than is the case in this country. This has also the 
 effect of reducing the number of florets, and, therefore, 
 flowers that do not come extra double in England would 
 probably show an eye when grown under American con- 
 ditions. I saw very clearly myself, varieties like The 
 Hon. Mrs. Lopes, Purity, Master James, and Master David 
 all had eyes as large as a shilling, while W. Mease, Mrs. 
 H. Stevens, and others which had been sent over at the 
 same time, were in every way splendid specimens as re- 
 gards size and colour. 
 
 It should also be mentioned that in America no stop- 
 ping or timing is practised, the first buds being secured 
 after about August loth. 
 
 At the Shows. 
 
 Chrysanthemums are generally exhibited at the shows in 
 classes of 18, 20, and 25 distinct varieties. In all cases 
 blooms are placed in vases, whether the exhibit consists of 
 only one flower or as many as 50, and the vases are from 
 seven to eighteen inches high. The feature that seems 
 quite new to English ideas is the plan frequently adopted of 
 having classes comprising 12, 25, and even 50 blooms of 
 one sort. The stems range from 18 in. to 4 ft. in length, 
 and the vases containing these specimens are from a few 
 inches to ia foot across at the top, according to the number 
 of individual flowers each contains. I rather fancy that it 
 would be quite out of the question to expect English 
 growers to stage 25 or 50 chrysanthemums of one variety 
 as a separate class tat a show in this country; but our 
 American cousins, as all the world knows, are in the 
 habit of doing most things on a large scale ! 
 
go THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN AMERICA. 9! 
 
 No artificial support whatever is allowed to blooms 
 staged for exhibition, and hence, in the case of the monster 
 flowers which are so much admired, the heads are apt to 
 droop. Visitors are frequently obliged to raise the flowers 
 to examine them, and when this has been done many 
 times the poor heads droop lower than ever. The pro- 
 hibition of all artificial support has, however, one marked 
 result; it compels growers to use every endeavour to pro- 
 duce varieties with strong stiff stems. 
 
 It is quite the usual practice to cut flowers intended for 
 exhibition a week or more before the date of the show. 
 They are kept in a darkened cellar, in barrels of water. 
 Naturally, while there, they absorb a tremendous quantity 
 of moisture, ia>nd, in consequence, the flowers remain quite 
 fresh for several days while a show (lasts. Chrysanthemums 
 raised for commercial purposes are cut twenty-four hours 
 before being despatched to market, and are kept in a cool, 
 dark place in water, the idea being the same as in the 
 case of the exhibition specimens to make the blooms re- 
 tain their freshness for a good while. 
 
Q2 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUMS SPORTING. 
 
 There is a considerable amount of mystery attending the 
 sporting" of plants, and many theories have been advanced 
 to account for sports or freaks in chrysanthemums. Some 
 curious facts are to be noticed in this connection. For 
 instance, a variety may sport the first year as a seedling, 
 especially white and yellow on the same plant, or the 
 variety keeps true for several years, and then sport in 
 several parts of the country simultaneously. Again, these 
 sports may produce other sports, as seen in the case of 
 Madame Marie Masse, from which there have been at 
 least ten distinct sports, without counting striped and in- 
 termediate shades. Then there is Caprice du Printemps, 
 with almost as many eccentricities to its credit, although 
 it kept true for several years before it produced the crimson 
 sport, Kathleen Thompson. A few years afterwards 
 there were sports and cross-sports viz., "reverts," in ten 
 or more different colours 'but mostly inferior to the parent, 
 being either bad doers or possessing dull colours, which 
 should not be put into commerce. There are also the 
 sports of V. Morel (including the green Ethel 
 Amsden), Australie, Mdm. Carnot, and many others. 
 Tuxedo was several years before it gave a sport, when it 
 gave a fimbriated one called May McBean, and also a 
 yellow sport. Niveus gave a fluffy petalled sport, and 
 Polly may often be seen with greenish deformed flowers, 
 so that although many plants sport, they are not always 
 improvements on the original. The whites generally sport 
 yellow, yellows 'bronze ; pinks sport white or bronze, or 
 with yellow shades; while white with pink shadings sport 
 yellow with rosy bronze shadings. 
 
DRESSING BLOOMS FOR SHOW. 93 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 DRESSING BLOOMS FOR SHOW. 
 
 Incurveds wamt a great deal more dressing (or arrang- 
 ing) the florets than Japs. A great deal can be done while 
 they are on the plants by pulling out any deformed florets 
 or bad centres ; but this must be performed very carefully, 
 or the tweezers will bruise the good florets, and they will 
 show it in a day or two. This will do more harm than 
 good. It is better not to attempt to dress the blooms 
 until as near to the time of the show as possible, in case 
 the marks of the tweezers should show. The stiff-petalled 
 sorts should be left until the last. Many of the largest 
 and best flowers will perhaps take an hour or more to 
 dress to make them perfect, as there are so many florets 
 which get one into the other. These should all! be parted, 
 for that makes the flower so much larger. If there are 
 any short petals in the centre, pull them out, so as to 
 get some of the longest and best to form a good high 
 centre, and build the others up regularly round them, 
 until the flowers are finished. Do not cup your flowers 
 too tightly, or the depth of them will be lessened thereby. 
 A good incurved should be perfectHy round and even when 
 finished, with every petal snowing itself distinctly. 
 
 I have known caterpillars to eat holes in incurveds suffi- 
 ciently large to insert a nut. If these short stumps are 
 pulled out the florets can easily be made to cover the hole 
 so that no one can detect it; but, of course, every petal 
 must be moved, and this reduces the size of the flower 
 somewhat. In dressing blooms nothing must be added, 
 not even a drop of gum, or it will disqualify the whole 
 stand. 
 
 In arranging the blooms on the board the largest are 
 generally put in the back row, then the next largest in the 
 middle row, iand the smallest, which are generally the 
 neatest, in the front row. Incurveds must not be shaken 
 
q 4 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 
 Clara Wells (Incurved), 
 
DRESSING BLOOMS FOR SHOW. 95 
 
 about much in going to the show, or there will be a good 
 deal to do to them to put them right again. 
 
 Japanese for Show, 
 
 Japanese blooms want but little dressing for show. Any 
 crippled florets should be pulled out. Some of the straight- 
 petalled varieties may have some short petals in the centre. 
 These should all be pulled clean out. Then hold the flower 
 the wrong way upwards, and give it a smart shake. The 
 longer petals will ibe found to fill up the place of the shorter 
 ones, and thus give the flower a deeper and more graceful 
 appearance. Remember, at the same time, one may pull 
 as much as one likes out of a flower, but nothing must 
 be added. Of course, there are ia good many opinions as 
 to the propriety of dressing Japanese chrysanthemums, 
 but, for my part, I am unable to see why it should be per- 
 missible to dress incurveds and that the line should be 
 drawn at Japs. I have known judges to disqualify ex- 
 hibitors for dressing Japanese incurveds, such as Mrs. 
 Barkley, W. R. Church, and others, because the florets 
 had been reflexed. The question ought to be decided by 
 every Society, a rule being inserted in the schedule plainly 
 stating whether reflexing was allowable or not. At Edin- 
 burgh the magnificent specimens are usually shown with 
 long, beautiful florets reflexing naturally, while in the South 
 of England equally magnificent specimens may be noticed 
 with the florets artificially reflexed. In 'both caises the effect 
 is the same lovely. But, as I have said, some 
 judges would disqualify in 'the latter instance, forgetting 
 apparently that climatic variations make reflexing neces- 
 sary. On a bright, sunny day all Japanese chrysan- 
 themums reflex more or less ; and surely the grower who 
 strives after perfection of form, remembering that " a 
 thing of beauty is a joy for ever," should be allowed to 
 assist Dame Nature a little in this respect. 
 
 Other Varieties. 
 
 Anemones want but very little dressing ; merely pull any 
 loose or straggling florets out, arrange the guard florets 
 
96 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 regularly all round, and remove any deformities from the 
 cushion, to 'make it even all over. 
 
 Pompoms are generally shown on stems, and three blooms 
 of a sort. They require but little dressing; still, they can 
 sometimes be improved by a little arranging of florets, 
 especially the anemone "poms." When arranging them 
 on the board it is better to place them in tubes and plug 
 them with moss than to tie them in bunches. They should 
 be fixed so that each and every flower can be seen to the 
 best advantage, and as evenly as possible all over the 
 board, with the colours arranged so that each set 
 harmonises with its neighbour. 
 
 Singles are either shown in threes or in sprays of two 
 or three of each sort ; and when they are nicely set up and 
 arranged there is nothing in the whole show which attracts 
 more attention. They should be staged in a similar way 
 to pompoms (see above). The only dressing these require 
 is the pulling out of any short or irregular florets, so that 
 the flower appears as round and even as possible. Singles, 
 for exhibition, should not have more than two rows of 
 florets. I prefer to see singles and pompoms exhibited in 
 sprays. 
 
JUDGING CUT BLOOMS. 97 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 JUDGING CUT BLOOMS. 
 
 The man who undertakes to discharge 'the duties of a 
 judge at any flower show must be a man of knowledge, 
 experience, and good judgment. He must have taste; he 
 must be level-headed; he must have the critical faculty 
 developed; and he must be blessed with that by no means 
 common gift namely, common-sense. All these qualities, 
 and others which I need not stop to enumerate, are required 
 of the judge at a chrysanthemum exhibition, and more 
 especially in respect of the cut blooms section. In this 
 department competition is usually very keen indeed, and 
 a long and varied experience has taught me that in the 
 vast majority of cases, where the level of excellence is high, 
 unless the " point " system is adopted it is impossible for 
 a judge to come to a fair decision. Where two or more 
 judges are working together, any strong personal predilec- 
 tions are repressed; for it is hardly possible that two or 
 three men will hold precisely the same opinion as to what 
 constitutes a perfect 'bloom. The chief advantage of the 
 point system of judging is that it enables an exhibitor to 
 see which of his 'blooms (if any) were considered perfect, 
 or which failed to come up to the standard, and by how 
 much they fell short of it. 
 
 And here let me enter a protest against the present 
 tendency of judges to lean strongly in favour of mere size. 
 Some chrysanthemum judges seem to regard the rule 
 measure as the supreme test, and give perfection of form 
 and beauty of colour a secondary place. For my part, I 
 venture to think this is a serious mistake. Mere bulk 
 should not outweigh other considerations, and, personally, 
 I should place colouring and Asymmetry before size. lit is, 
 to my mind, always a pity when a beautiful flower, perfect 
 in colour and shape, and measuring, say, six and a half 
 inches across, is passed over and the award given to 
 another flower measuring nine inches across but inferior 
 in other essentials. 
 
9 S 
 
 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 The Point System. 
 
 With regard to the point system of judging, I believe 
 much feeling would be avoided at chrysanthemum exhibi- 
 tions if competitors were informed upon what grounds the 
 awards 'had been made. This could easily be effected by 
 means of Point Cards, which, filled in by the judges and 
 signed, could be placed over the exhibits. I suggest some- 
 thing like the diagram on this page, taking five as the 
 highest standard of excellence : 
 
 JUDGES' CARD, 
 For Twelve Chrysanthemum Blooms. 
 
 Class Entry of the ..Chrysanthemum Society 
 
 14 13 
 
 ist Prize awarded to. 
 
 Signed 
 
 4 
 3 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 Total 50 
 
 \Judges. 
 I Secretary. 
 
 Such a card need only be used when the competition is 
 very close. Whenever used it would furnish a kind of 
 standard up to which exhibitors could subsequently work, 
 as they would see at exactly what value the judges had ap- 
 praised each bloom. The wiianer's name could be filled in 
 after the judges had signed the card. 
 
INSECT PESTS AND DISEASES. 9Q 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 INSECT PESTS AND DISEASES. 
 
 The difficulties of raising perfect chrysanthemums would 
 be considerably reduced if it were not for the ravages of 
 insect pests and the damage which is caused by disease. 
 In this chapter, therefore, I propose to deal with some of 
 the trials the grower has to face from these two causes. 
 And first as to aphides. 
 
 Aphides* 
 
 If you succeed in clearing aphides from the top of a 
 plant, they are almost sure to start new colonies under the 
 
 Aphides. 
 
 i and 2. Male natural size and magnified. 
 3 and 4. Female natural size and magnified. 
 
 leaves, or all up the stems ; or, if you clear them from there, 
 and they drop to the .ground, ants will take them into their 
 holes and cherish them, until they can find them fresh 
 leaves upon which to feed. And, of course, this is only 
 natural, for the aphides are the cows, as it were, of the 
 ants. The exudation from the a.phide (honeydew) is sweet, 
 
100 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 and is a substance on which the ant feeds. Have you ever 
 seen an ant trying to get an aphide from the jaws of a 
 lady-bird? It is very (amusing to watch it; but Mrs. Lady- 
 bird is always the conqueror, although Mr. Ant uses every 
 artifice to try to induce her to drop her prey. To kill 
 aphides nothing is better than perseverance with tobacco- 
 powder and puff" while the plants are outdoors, or fumigat- 
 ing while they are indoors. 
 
 Thrips. 
 
 Thrips are sometimes troublesome to the young growths 
 in dry seasons, but soot-water syringed or sprinkled over 
 the plants will! check them. This and an occasional dusting 
 with tobacco- powder, or a good fumigating if .the plants 
 are indoors will effectually destroy the tiresome insects. 
 
 The Earwig. 
 
 One of the insects with which everybody is familiar is the 
 earwig (Forficula auricularia), for there are few years in 
 which they do not abound. They are a source of great 
 trouble and loss to gardeners by feeding on the flowers 
 and, young shoots of many plants, their favourites being 
 chrysanthemums and carnations. They are very voracious, 
 but feed only at night, creeping into some sheltered place 
 during the day. The best way to destroy them is to trap 
 them by placing in their haunts something into which they 
 can creep and hide. Small garden pots, half-filled with 
 dry moss or crumpled paper ; and short lengths of rods 
 or reeds make useful traps. The stem of sunflowers and 
 beans cut into lengths of 9 in. or i ft., are admirably suited 
 for this purpose, particularly those of the former, as the 
 pithy lining is somewhat sweet. The traps placed among 
 the shoots of the plants which are attacked should be ex- 
 amined every morning, and the insects shaken or blown 
 into a vessel of water with enough paraffin-oil floating on 
 the top to completely cover the surface with a good film. 
 This will effectually destroy them. 
 
INSECT PESTS AND DISEASES. 
 
 101 
 
 Bugs. 
 
 Another mischievous insect a chrysanthemum grower 
 has to cope with is the small greenish bug, or fly 
 (Calocoris chenofiodii], nearly as large as a lady-bird. If 
 one or more of the leading points of a plant are seen to 
 be drooping while the others are fresh and green, depend 
 upon it one of these tiresome insects is the cause of the 
 mischief; and if you pass your hands gently up the stern 
 they will run to the top or behind a leaf where they may 
 be caught. They have very sharp piercers, with which 
 they penetrate the soft stem to the centre and the shoot 
 
 The Green Bug. 
 
 20. magnified ; c natural size. 
 
 2 1 . pupa ; d natural size. 
 
 27. another species (pale green) ;" ' g natural size. 
 
 often goes blind, or becomes crippiled. As soon as these 
 insects leave the egg they can run about, being furnished 
 with legs, horns, etc., like their parents, but their wings 
 at this stage are not developed. In every stage of their 
 existence they feed in the same manner, but the perfect 
 insects are exceedingly active and can fly well. 
 
 A brownish-black bug which rejoices in the name of 
 Aphro-phora alni also gives a great deal of trouble. Some- 
 times it changes its coat, and for a day or two is of 
 a red colour. These bugs act in a similar manner to 
 the greenish ones mentioned in the preceding para- 
 
 H 
 
102 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 graph, except that, when hunted, instead of flying away 
 they drop as if dead. They are responsible for (the black 
 spots one sees on the lovely white fowers early in the 
 season ; and they are extremely difficult to catch amongst 
 the florets. 
 
 Fungus. 
 
 This is a disease which first appeared all over Europe 
 about the month of August, 1897. There seem to be two 
 
 Leaf Containing Fungus. 
 
 The above illustration shows a small leaf taken from an out-of-door 
 plant which developed fungus, although it had never been fed or treated 
 in any way, and certainly had not been crowded. 
 
 distinct stages (or crops) of spores. One stage makes its 
 appearance about August, after a sudden change in the 
 temperature. The disease, if not checked, makes rapid 
 progress, for one plant with a few spots will soon distribute 
 millions of spores, and in a few days or weeks spots will 
 be seen in all directions. The fungus spreads very quickly 
 after the plants are housed, if precautions are not taken 
 to check it. The other stage appears just when the cut- 
 tings are rooting, or have just rooted. This is no doubt 
 due to the spores which have fallen from the old leaves on 
 to the cuttings below, and lie dormant until the cuttings 
 
INSECT PESTS AM) DISEASES. 1 03 
 
 begin to show life after rooting. Generally it is said that 
 over-feeding" is the cause of the fungus, but this is entirely 
 erroneous, because 1 have seen the worst cases of any 
 many miles apart, and where they have been growing out 
 of doors undivided for years, and no " fed " plants near 
 them. 
 
 Another and more feasible explanation as to the origin 
 of fungus is that it is communicated by air-borne spores 
 which germinate on the leaf in an analogous manner to 
 a seed growing in the soil. It is therefore necessary to 
 apply preventive measures in the earliest stages, before 
 visible signs of disease appear, by spraying with some solu- 
 tion which will destroy these spores. When spraying see 
 that all parts, especially the under surface of the leaves, 
 are well wetted; a spray which stands in globules on the 
 leaves and will not spread is of little use. Remember that 
 thousands of spores, etc., may adhere to adjacent wood- 
 work, and this may with advantage be sprayed with 
 stronger solutions. 
 
 Remedy lor Fungus. 
 
 The fungus is a disease against which chrysanthemum 
 growers have to battle, and as I have had to fight and 
 have vanquished the enemy I recommend with consider- 
 able confidence the following methods of dealing with it : 
 
 Spray every cutting or plant once a fortnight from the 
 day the cuttings are inserted or the old plants cut down 
 with about a wineglassful of paraffin mixed with one 
 gallon of water, using an Abol syringe with a spray nozzle. 
 If the solution can be kept thoroughly mixed double the 
 strength may be employed. Then from July ist spray the 
 under part of the foliage with a dressing composed of the 
 following ingredients : Half-pound each of sulphur, soft 
 soap, soot, and lime. The lot should be boiled for half- 
 an-hour in one gallon of water; a half-pint of paraffin 
 should then be added, and the mixture allowed to simmer 
 for a minute or so, care being taken to prevent it from 
 boiling over. The dressing should be allowed to stand till 
 it gets clear, and may 'be kept in bottles. A quarter of a 
 
 H 2 
 
104 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 pint of the dressing may be used to a gallon of water. If, 
 however, the fungus is very bad, and has obtained a hold 
 of the plant, double the strength can be used without in- 
 juring the chrysanthemums. 
 
 This may be completely cured by syringing the under 
 side of the leaves with " Abol " ( White's superior 
 insecticide "), or the mixture that I recommend for fungus. 
 In fact, if used as a preventive for fungus, mi'ldew will 
 not make its appearance at all. 
 
 Rust or Mould. 
 
 This is a kind of fungus known mostly among market 
 growers, and is generally seen in plants which are crowded 
 together in beds, sufficient air space not being allowed 
 between them. It attacks some varieties worse than others, 
 and in wet seasons more than in dry ones. The varieties 
 which suffer most are : W. H. Lincoln, Lady Fitz- 
 vvigram, Mdm. Casimir Perrier, etc. I have seen 
 plants perfectly healthy and green on Monday, with a few 
 black spots on Tuesday, nearly every leaf black by Satur- 
 day, and by the Monday again just a week from the 
 attack not a green leaf left nothing but the stems and 
 buds, the latter failing to swell afterwards. I do not 
 know any cure for this disease except it be the observance 
 of the precept, " Don't overcrowd." 
 
 The Leaf Mining Maggot. 
 
 There are a large number of leaf mining pests, but I 
 am o>f opinion that the maggot which attacks chrysan- 
 themums is the most troublesome of any. Its life history 
 is exceedingly simple. The eggs are deposited in 'the leaves 
 of plants by the full grown fly. These eggs speedily turn 
 to tiny grubs, which burrow in the tissues of the leaf, be- 
 ginning in fine thread-like lines, and gradually growing 
 in size like a river starting in a tiny stream from its 
 source and increasing in size as it flows onwards. Some- 
 times the grub works towards the mid-rib of the leaf, and 
 sometimes towards the edge. At the end of a few weeks 
 
INSECT PESTS AND DISEASES. 105 
 
 the grub turns to a chrysalis, and in a very short time 
 emerges as a perfectly developed fly. The grubs of the 
 leaf, moreover, are to be found on the plants in the autumn 
 when the latter are housed. A cool temperature retards 
 
 Leaf Mining Maggot. 
 
 their development, but in a warm atmosphere they in- 
 crease and multiply at an amazing rate. Umless prompt 
 measures are taken to destroy the flies, and so prevent 
 them laying their eggs, an incalculable amount of harm 
 will result. The best remedy is to smoke the plants and 
 houses with "Auto-shreds." My plan is to carry out the 
 
io6 
 
 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 smoking" operation on, say, a Saturday, and repeat it on 
 the following Saturday, taking care to do the work very 
 thoroughly. When the plants are in the open the best 
 thing is to spray them once a week with a little paraffin 
 solution (" Homco "). The fly will not settle on any leaves 
 which smell of paraffin. 
 
 Wireworms. 
 
 Among the most deadly enemies of the chrysanthemum 
 is the wire worm, belonging to an order of beetles form- 
 
 Wireworms. 
 
 2 lineatus magnified ; 3 obscurus ; 4 natural length ; 5 spvitator ; 
 
 6 magnified ; 7 and 8 larva natural size ; 9 magnified ; 
 
 1 1 chrysalis ; a natural length. 
 
 ing the family Elateridce, and commonly called " skip 
 jacks " or " click beetles." They are most destructive when 
 in the larva state, in which condition they remain four or 
 five years. It is only by constantly working the soil and 
 keeping it free from weeds or plants of every kind that 
 wireworms can be starved out. They abound in old 
 pastures where there is plenty of food to sustain them. In 
 attacking a chrysanthemum a wireworm will begin by eat- 
 ing into the middle of the plant and then it will eat its way 
 up through the stem to the top. Sometimes it eats a 
 passage out, but it often descends by the way it worked 
 
INSECT PESTS AND DISEASES. 107 
 
 up the interior of the stem. Following this method one 
 wireworm will destroy a number of plants. Birds devour 
 a good many wireworms, 'but where they are very numerous 
 the best plan is to trap them by placing carrots or pieces 
 of cabbage or broccoli stumps beneath the surface of the 
 ground and examining the " traps " daily, or they may 
 be cleared out by digging vaporite into the ground. 
 
 Daddy Long-Legs or Crane Fly. 
 
 I eggs ; 2 the maggot stage ; 3 pupa ; 4 female fully grown. 
 
 ]>addy Long-legs. 
 
 This is a most troublesome pest, and while classified 
 under the name of Ti-pula Oleracea is usually called the 
 " Leather-Jacket Grub," " Crane Ply," or " Daddy Long- 
 legs." The insect is very destructive among the cabbage 
 tribe. It is not so injurious to plants in pots, as the soil 
 is generally too hard for it to burrow in, nor in land which 
 is constantly dug and weeded ; but in land which has 
 borne a good crop of weeds, or in an old pasture it will 
 clear off chrysanthemums as fast as they are planted. I 
 
H)8 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 have had to replant 16,000 'mums upon one acre of such 
 land. Starlings catch thousands of " Leather Jackets " if 
 the insects venture near the surface, but when the flatter 
 attack newly set plants, there seems but one way to deal 
 with them viz., to search round the plant and, having 
 found them, kill them. I have seen sufficient to fill halt 
 a gallon caught day after day. Vaporite can be put into 
 the ground to destroy them without killing the plant, or 
 syringing with the smallest possible quantity of paraffin 
 in the water is a good method to keep them at bay. 
 It is only while in the grub state that they are so 
 destructive ; they bite small plants in two, and eat the rind 
 off harder plants. 
 
 Frog Fly. 
 
 30 egg magnified ; / natural size. 
 28 flying ; h natural dimensions. 
 
 31 pupa ; n natural size. 
 
 The Frog Fly. 
 
 Everyone has noticed upon various flowers little patches 
 of frothy matter called "cuckoo spittle." This is caused 
 by a tender little insect which by sucking the plant buries 
 itself in this froth, which protects it from heat and other 
 inimical effects until it is fully grown, when it changes to 
 a pupa and finally to a fly the " frog fly " or " jumper." 
 These flies are sometimes credited with causing the mis- 
 chief which is done by the green bug, but after they have 
 left the frothy substance they do not pierce the plant. At 
 the same time, it is well to destroy all that can be caught. 
 
INSECT FRIENDS. 
 
 I0 9 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 INSECT FRIENDS. 
 
 Having dealt in the preceding chapter with some of the 
 principal insect pests with which chrysanthemum growers 
 have to contend, I shall now allude to some of their insect 
 friends. I need hardly say that there are insects which per- 
 form services of the greatest value to gardeners; indeed, 
 
 Hoverer Flies. 
 
 I Scceva balleata ; 4 Scceva pyrastri ; 7 Scava ribesii ; 2 and 5 grub ; 
 3 and 6 chrysalides. 
 
 without their assistance it would be well-nigh impossible 
 to cultivate plants at all. 
 
 Tlie Hoverer or Hawk Fly. 
 
 The Hoverer flies may often be seen hovering apparently 
 motionless in the sunshine near trees or basking on leaves 
 with their wings outspread. Their grubs are most voracious 
 and feed entirely on aphides. They are quite blind, and 
 although having neither eyes nor legs, they manage to kill 
 an enormous number of aphides. The flies are of manv 
 
I 10 
 
 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 shapes and sizes, some being long and narrow, some short 
 and thick. They fly very lightly to a shoot infested with 
 aphides, lay an egg in their midst, and hover away to 
 another shoot, and so on. These eggs soon come to life 
 and begin feeding on the aphides. The grubs cling to the 
 leaf or stem and feel about with their heads till they catch 
 an aphis when they suck it dry, cast away the skin, and 
 go " fishing " again. Thousands of these have been killed 
 for caterpillars in ignorance, for they generally lie close 
 to the stem, or on a leaf, as a caterpillar would. 
 
 Tlie Golden !:>-. 
 
 The eggs of this pretty insect, called also the " Lice- 
 lion," are generally deposited amongst aphides, and at- 
 tached to the ends of slender threads of a gummy sub- 
 stance (Fig. 2). When they are hatched they begin to feed 
 voraciously upon aphides, and in the younger state they 
 
 The Golden Eye. 
 
 5 and 6 cocoon magnified ; I female ; 2 eggs ; 4 larva magnified ; 
 3 larva covered with the skins of their victims. 
 
 cover themselves with the skins of their victims. In this 
 way it is difficult to detect them, and they lie concealed 
 from small birds and other enemies ; but when they are 
 grown somewhat they are more greedy than the larva of 
 the lady-bird hence their name, " Lice-lion." 
 
INSECT FRIENDS. 1 I I 
 
 The Lady bird. 
 
 The lady-birds (Coccinella se-ptempunctata and C. 
 bi-punctata) produce grubs which are most useful in 
 destroying aphides. The grubs are flattish, of a dark or 
 leaden grey colour, and ornamented with black and yellow 
 spots ; the grubs of both species (seven- and two-spotted 
 ladv-birds) are very much alike, but those of the two-spotted 
 
 Lady-Birds. 
 
 I and 2 eggs (natural size and magnified) : 3 and 4 grub ; 7, 8 and 5 
 two-spotted lady-bird and chrysalis ; 9 and 6 seven-spotted lady-bird 
 and chrysalis. 
 
 species are considerably smaller than those of the other, 
 being not more than a quarter of an inch in length. They 
 change their coat several times during growth, and are 
 continually searching for, and feeding on, aphides. When 
 fully grown they turn to a chrysalis, and remain gummed 
 to a leaf until they reach the mature state of a lady-bird. 
 
 Air Bees or Wasp Flies. 
 
 These are of different shapes and colours ; some are dark 
 and similar to a large ant, others long and narrow, not 
 unlike a small wasp. These insects make their nests in 
 
112 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 rotten wood, or in bamboo canes, building their doorways 
 with clay. They catch small caterpillars, aphides, and 
 
 One of the Wasp Flies. 
 
 other destructive insects, and are very useful amongst 
 chrysanthemums. 
 
 Birds. 
 
 The little Jenny Wren and Golden-Crested Wren are 
 great friends to gardeners, for they catch multitudes of 
 aphides and small bugs and caterpillars. Even after the 
 plants are housed they will almost live amongst the plants 
 if they are not frightened away. House martins and 
 swallows are, of course, also useful. In conclusion, I may 
 say that I am indebted to the pages of " Farm Insects," 
 by John Curtis, for some of the facts set forth in these 
 two chapters on insect pests and insect friends. 
 
HINTS ON WHAT NOT TO DO 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 HINTS ON WHAT NOT TO DO. 
 
 Not many people care to expose their failures, although 
 there are very few indeed who do not meet with them. If 
 they do not they are lucky. A gardener who never experi- 
 ments at all is not much good to the gardening world. 
 Then why should not one make known one's failings to 
 warn others? One need not be ashamed of them. So 
 here let me express a few cautions. 
 
 Don't trust others to do what you can do yourself, unless 
 you have proved them trustworthy. I do not mean that 
 there are no trustworthy young men, for there are men 
 as good now as ever there were; only I sometimes wish 
 there were more of them. 
 
 Don't propagate too early, unless you are thoroughly ex- 
 perienced, or your plants will become drawn and weakly. 
 
 Don't syringe or water any plants after 3 p.m. in the 
 spring months, or when there is any danger of frost. It 
 is better to let them flag a little than do this. 
 
 Don't water a plant in any stage until it is sufficiently 
 dry. The pot will ring or sound hollow when tapped with 
 the knuckles if it be dry. You might be deceived by the 
 tops lopping a bit when the sun and wind are on them after 
 a spell of dull, damp weather. 
 
 Don't kill any hoverer flies, lacewings, or any lady-birds 
 (or their Uarvae, which, of course, turn to lady-birds), for 
 they live entirely upon aphides. The larva is a small lizard- 
 like insect (see " Insect Friends "). 
 
 Don't water any plants or slop any water about the 
 houses after midday when the plants are in bloom if you 
 can possibly avoid it, for the large flowers damp off so 
 easily, especially the dark varieties. 
 
 Don't say you cannot grow chrysanthemums, because, 
 personally, I do not believe that little word " cannot " was 
 invented for gardeners. Say I will grow them, and stick 
 
114 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 to it until you have done it satisfactorily. You will then 
 not be likely to leave it. 
 
 Don't enter in larger classes, when exhibiting, than you 
 can manage properly. It is better to show twelve good 
 blooms than twenty-four with four or five, or even one 
 weak bloom. 
 
 Don't get down-hearted if you do not gain all first prizes 
 at your first attempt at exhibiting. There are many old 
 exhibitors who are very glad to stand in the prize list 
 at all. 
 
 Don't use bones for drainage to pots. You may be 
 successful for a year or two, but at some time or other you 
 will regret it. 
 
 Don't use stimulants of any kind too strong, but weak 
 and often, and on no account before the pots are full of 
 roots. Be very careful with chemicals. I have known the 
 fumes which arose from nitrate of soda and sulphate of 
 ammonia destroy the leaves two feet up the stems. This 
 is often the cause of naked stems. 
 
 Don't take out the break shoots too clos? to the bud 
 when securing the -latter, but leave one just below it, and 
 another six inches or so below that, until the bud gets 
 started. These growths will do no harm for a few days, 
 but, of course, must then be removed, or the bud will most 
 surely suffer. 
 
 Don't allow any plants to be blown about unsecured by 
 a stake at any time, for the month of September very 
 rarely passes without a rough wind. 
 
 Don't leave any plants out unprotected after the end of 
 September, for a sharp frost may occur any night. 
 
 Don't pot a plant at any time if it is very dry, or use 
 a dirty pot, otherwise when you come to re-pot you may 
 find the tender roots sadly torn and sticking to the old pot. 
 
 Don't water a plant when it is already wet enough at 
 the roots, as this will cause sappy growth and sour the 
 soil. 
 
 Don't water a plant for a few days after it has been 
 potted, but sprinkle it overhead two or three times a day 
 in hot weather to keep it from flagging. 
 
HINTS ON WHAT NOT TO DO. 115 
 
 Don't ram the soil too firmly in the pots, but so that the 
 water may pass freely through them. 
 
 Don't put away a tool of any description until it is clean 
 and ready to use another day. 
 
 Don't lend a good tool to anyone. 
 
 Don't fail to read the rules of any society's schedule 
 where you intend to exhibit, for non-compliance with the 
 rules may disqualify you. 
 
 Don't forget to see that your greenhouse is drip proof, 
 or you will rue the havoc rain-drops will make with the 
 flowers. 
 
 Don't forget to recommend this book to all your friends 
 if you are pleased with it yourself. 
 
 TESTIMONIAL. 
 
 ST. OSWALD'S NURSERY, 
 
 SOUTHEND-ON-SEA. 
 W. WELLS & Co. 
 
 DEAR SIRS, 
 
 Thinking you would be interested to hear how I succeeded 
 with the packet of Single 'Mum Seed I had from you, I enclose photo 
 of one of the plants. I have had some very fine flowers. I enclose 
 two of the varieties, one the same as in photo and a yellow one, which 
 I think is very good. From the photo you will have some idea of the 
 size of the plant. I put the one in photo up for exhibition at our 
 'Mum Show, and nothing was ever seen like it here. The seed was 
 sown on February pth, 1909 ; have been cutting regularly since the 
 last week in August. Height of plant, 47 inches, and 40 inches 
 through. 
 
 , Yours truly, 
 
 JAS. ANDERSON. 
 
 See Plate, page 45 of this Book. 
 
I 1 6 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM . 
 
 CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 HINTS ON WHAT TO DO. 
 
 I have given advice on what to avoid, and it may be 
 appropriate to emphasise several thing's it is essential to 
 remember. Therefore I have jotted down the following 
 hints : 
 
 Take your cuttings from healthy, unforced plants. 
 
 See that your pots, if new, are soaked well in water 
 before you pot; if old, that they are well washed and dry 
 before you begin, or you will lose a mass of fiibry roots, 
 when the plants come to be turned out of these pots, from 
 the small roots sticking to the sides. 
 
 Remember that the more roots you have to your plant 
 the better it will be. To secure abundance of roots pot 
 up .gradually from small to full-sized pots, by various sizes. 
 Every time the root reaches the side of the pot it branches 
 and runs round. When this is effected it is time for a 
 further shift. 
 
 Keep cuttings close, either covered with a glass or shut 
 up in a 'Case. This maintains the moisture all round the 
 cutting and prevents evaporation of the juices of the cut- 
 ting, which would otherwise wither and die. 
 
 Use long clean labels, upon which place name, date, 
 number, etc., leaving room for further remarks during the 
 summer. 
 
 Keep all your dates for future guidance. 
 
 Use preventives against disease at intervals rather than 
 delay till appearance of malady. 
 
 There is a place for everything, and everything should 
 be in its place. 
 
 When receiving new plants from the nurserymen it is 
 best to keep them close for two or three days, in case they 
 have been taken from a warm house. 
 
 Always be punctual as regards the time announced for 
 the completion of the staging of your flowers at shows 
 
HINTS ON WHAT TO DO. I I/ 
 
 ready for the judges. A rule in vogue is to ring a bell 
 15 minutes before the judging, and an announcement is 
 made that only a quarter of an hour will ibe allowed. At 
 
 Miss Alice Finch. 
 
 the stroke of the clock the sweepers commence at one end 
 and everyone is cleared out. 
 
 No weeds grow where no weeds are allowed to seed. 
 
 A garden which is always clean never looks untidy. 
 
 A clean workman never allows dirt to accumulate. 
 
 I 
 
IlS THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 THE STERILISATION OF SOIL. 
 
 I find that comparatively few gardeners are acquainted 
 with the good results of steaming soil in order to killl the 
 seeds of weeds, as well as to destroy spores and the larvae 
 of insects. But the steaming process is a very valuable 
 way of enriching mould intended for growing cuttings 
 and plants in pots and boxes. 
 
 When every yard of loam has to be carted five or six 
 milles it becomes an expensive business, and when it is 
 first used for large plants, then, perhaps, for cucumbers 
 or tomatoes, and afterwards for propagating, the soil 
 loses some of the properties which a chrysanthemum re- 
 quires. At the same time it has probably become full of 
 weed seed, or spores, or other soil pests. This being the 
 case I determined to try sterilising a heap of about 90 
 yards at the Merstham nurseries, the object being prin- 
 cipally to get rid of chickweed seed. 
 
 I believe that the plan of steaming soil could be very 
 advantageously followed in large nurseries and gardens 
 where great quantities of plants are raised in boxes and 
 pots. In hothouses weeds grow riotously in the humid 
 atmosphere, so that by hand-labour it is next to impossible 
 to keep them down. The moulld for potting cuttings, 
 being used again and again year after year, in time be- 
 comes fu<ll of seeds. Apart from the labour necessary for 
 ceaseless cleaning, the weeds, growing with almost tropical 
 rapidity, take away the food constituents of the soil from 
 the plants which the gardener is devoting all his skill and 
 time to raise. 
 
 As regards gardens of moderate size, small quantities of 
 soil may be steamed by putting the mould in a pail and 
 standing the latter in a copper with water which reaches 
 half way up the pail. As the water boils the soil will be 
 steamed through. The lid should be kept on the copper 
 to prevent fhe steam from escaping. 
 
THE BEST BLOOMS FOR EXHIBITION. I 19 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 THE BEST BLOOMS FOR EXHIBITION. 
 
 In the lists which are printed below will be found the 
 names of the best Japanese, incurveds, early flowering 
 doubles, and single chrysanthemums. 
 
 As regards the incurveds, I am indebted to Mr. \Y. 
 Higgs, of Leatherhead, for compiling the list, and as he 
 is the champion incurved grower his selections will be ac- 
 cepted without question. 
 
 With respect to the Japs a few remarks seem desirable. 
 The table is arranged alphabetically. I am well aware 
 that any man who compiles a list of the best chrysan- 
 themums challenges criticism, and perhaps it may disarm 
 criticism so far as this list of Japs is concerned if I admit 
 that there are some varieties not included which, in the 
 hands of certain growers, might do as well as some varie- 
 ties which are included. It would be absurd for any man 
 to say : " Here is a list of the best Japs, and a broad line 
 of demarcation separates any variety on my list from the 
 best variety that can be mentioned which is not on my 
 list." But the 60 'mums enumerated below are in my 
 judgment the best in Great Britain at the present time 
 for all-round cultivation and exhibition. 
 
 Best Sixty .lap* for Exhibition. 
 
 I have not attempted to submit 12 or 24 varieties as the 
 best out of the 60 I have named, because there are many 
 varieties which do better in the north than in the south, 
 and vice versa. 
 
 Many varieties which I advise to be stopped for second 
 crown may be grown on the first crown in the north, and 
 in the south also if ithe cuttings are inserted at the end of 
 January or the beginning of February, but this neces- 
 sitates a knowledge of the varieties, or, in other words, 
 a year's trial. 
 
 The best time to secure first crown buds is from 
 August roth to i5bh, and second crown buds from 
 
 I 2 
 
120 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 August 15th to 20th. In the list given below the follow- 
 ing should be noted : 
 
 A means insert cuttings as early as possible in Decem- 
 ber. Do not stop at all, but secure second crown buds. 
 
 B means insert cuttings in December, or early in January. 
 Nip out the point o>f the plant early in April, and secure 
 second crown. 
 
 C means insert cuttings during December, and secure 
 first crowin. 
 
 D means that these varieties may be stopped early in 
 April, and again at the end of Miay. 
 
 Algernon Davis 
 
 Beatrice May 
 
 Beecham Keeling 
 
 Bessie Godfrey 
 
 C.H. Totty 
 
 Edith Jamison 
 
 Edith Smith... 
 
 Frank Payne 
 
 F. S. Vallis 
 
 Gladys Blackburn 
 
 Geo. Mileham ('08) 
 J. Lock 
 
 J. H. Silsbury P 
 
 fohn Peed 
 
 Lady Crisp 
 
 Lady E. Letch worth 
 
 Lady M. Conyers 
 
 Lady Hopetoun 
 
 Lady Talbot 
 
 Leigh Park Wonder 
 
 Leslie Morrison 
 
 Madam G. Rivol 
 
 P. Radaelli 
 
 R. Cadbury 
 
 Magnificent 
 
 Marquis of Northampton ... 
 
 Mary Inglis 
 
 Mary Mason 
 
 Master James 
 
 Maud Jefferies 
 
 B 
 
 B 
 
 Melchet Beauty 
 Miss Annie Nicoll .. 
 
 C 
 C 
 B 
 
 Elsie Fulton ... 
 Miriam Hankey 
 Mrs. A. G. Pirie ... 
 
 B 
 B 
 
 , A. T. Miller ... 
 , C. H. Tottv ... 
 
 C 
 
 , C. Penford' ... 
 
 C 
 
 , G. F. Coster ... 
 
 A 
 A 
 
 , Geo. Mileham 
 H. Stevens ... 
 
 B 
 A 
 C 
 C 
 
 J. E. Dunne ... 
 , L. Thorn 
 , N. Davis 
 , W. Knox 
 
 C 
 
 O. H. Broomhead ... 
 
 C 
 
 Pockett's Crimson ... 
 
 B 
 A 
 
 B 
 P, 
 
 President Viger 
 Purity 
 Reginald Vallis 
 Rose Pockett 
 
 C 
 C 
 C 
 
 A 
 
 Splendour 
 Superb ... 
 The Hon. Mrs. Lopes 
 Valerie Greenham ... 
 
 C 
 
 D 
 
 A 
 
 W. A. Etherington... 
 Walter Jinks 
 W. Beadle 
 
 A 
 
 Wm. Gee ... 
 
 A 
 
 W. Mease 
 
 A 
 C 
 C 
 B 
 C 
 C 
 A 
 C 
 A 
 C 
 B 
 A 
 A 
 A 
 A 
 B 
 C 
 B 
 B 
 B 
 A 
 A 
 B 
 C 
 B 
 C 
 C 
 A 
 B 
 A 
 
THE BEST BLOOMS FOR EXHIBITION. 121 
 
 BEST 36 1NCURVEDS FOR EXHIBITION. 
 
 
 Insert 
 Cuttings. 
 
 Stop. 
 
 Vo. of 
 hoots 
 to 
 econd 
 
 First 
 or 
 Second 
 
 Bud secured 
 in August 
 about. 
 
 Feed after 
 buds 
 taken. 
 
 
 
 
 Break. 
 
 }rown. 
 
 
 
 Clara Wells 
 
 End Dec. 
 
 Natural 
 
 3 
 
 1st 
 
 Middle 
 
 freely 
 
 Buttercup 
 Lady Isabel 
 
 Early Dec. 
 
 5 
 End Mar. 
 
 3 
 I 
 
 2nd 
 
 End Aug. 
 
 5 > 
 
 5 5 
 
 Mrs. G. Denver 
 
 5> 55 
 
 sj 55 
 
 I 
 
 5 J 
 
 )5 
 
 ,, 
 
 H. W. Thorp 
 
 55 > 
 
 ,, ,, 
 
 3 
 
 55 
 
 ' 5 5 J 
 
 55 
 
 Mrs. Barnard Hankey .., 
 
 55 ' 
 
 15 '5 
 
 i 
 
 5> 
 
 55 
 
 51 
 
 Duchess of Fife 
 
 
 Natural 
 
 3 
 
 ISt 
 
 Middle 
 
 51 
 
 Embleme Poitevine 
 
 5 5 5 
 
 End Mar. 
 
 
 2nd 
 
 End Aug. 
 
 tt 
 
 Daisy Southam ... 
 
 55 5 
 
 Natural 
 
 3 
 
 ISt 
 
 5> J 
 
 55 
 
 Mrs. F. Judson 
 
 55 55 
 
 J 5 
 
 3 
 
 > 
 
 Middle 
 
 sparingly 
 
 Topaze Orientale 
 
 End Dec. 
 
 End Mar. 
 
 i 
 
 2nd 
 
 5 5 
 
 freely 
 
 Frank Hammond 
 
 Early. Dec. 
 
 Natural 
 
 3 
 
 ISt 
 
 
 5 5 
 
 Mrs. J. Hygate 
 
 , , ,, 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 ,, 
 
 ) 5 
 
 5 5 
 
 C. II. Curtis 
 
 51 55 
 
 ? , 
 
 3 
 
 ,, 
 
 M 
 
 > 5 
 
 Triomphe de Montbrun 
 
 55 55 
 
 End Mar. 
 
 i 
 
 2nd 
 
 55 
 
 sparingly 
 
 May Phillips 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 End Aug. 
 
 freely 
 
 Frank Trist on 
 
 > 5 
 
 Natural 
 
 3 
 
 1st 
 
 o 
 
 
 XV. Pascoe 
 
 
 
 T. 
 
 
 
 
 Pantia Ralli 
 
 | 
 
 End Mar. 
 
 J 
 
 I 
 
 2nd 
 
 Middle 
 
 5 5 
 
 Miss F. Ashworth 
 
 J 5 
 
 j 1 
 
 I 
 
 i 
 
 }> 
 
 sparingly 
 
 Miss Nellie Southam ... 
 
 
 Natural 
 
 3 
 
 ISt 
 
 55 
 
 freely 
 
 lalene ' 
 
 ? ? 
 
 End Mar. 
 
 i 
 
 2nd 
 
 5) 
 
 5< 
 
 W. J. Higgs 
 
 , , 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 55 
 
 J' 
 
 J5 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 Mrs. J. Wynn 
 
 55 55 
 
 Natural 
 
 3 
 
 ISt 
 
 
 || 
 
 Romance 
 
 
 End Apr. 
 
 3 
 
 2nd 
 
 5 
 
 M 
 
 Souv. de Wm. Clibran... 
 
 ' > ') 
 
 " 
 
 3 
 
 j 
 
 5 
 
 
 W. Biddle 
 
 '5 55 
 
 End Mar. 
 
 
 5 5 
 
 
 55 
 
 Miss Cora Stoop 
 
 J? 5 
 
 Natural 
 
 
 J5 
 
 , 
 
 
 Godfrey Eclipse... 
 
 ,, , 
 
 End Apr 
 
 
 ISt 
 
 , 
 
 sparingly 
 
 Le Peyrou 
 
 ,, , 
 
 End Mar. 
 
 
 2nd 
 
 5 
 
 freely 
 
 Calypso ... 
 
 5> 5 
 
 5 , , j 
 
 
 5 
 
 ? 
 
 55 
 
 II . Hearn 
 
 5 ) 5 
 
 Natural 
 
 
 TSt 
 
 5 
 
 J5 
 
 Amber Beauty ... 
 
 
 End Mar. 
 
 
 2nd 
 
 5 
 
 
 Hanwell Glory ... 
 
 55 5 
 
 5 5 > 
 
 
 " 
 
 5 
 
 55 
 
122 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 Thirty-Six Good Singles. 
 
 Altrincham Yellow, Albert Williams, , Bronze Pagram, 
 Beauty of Weybridge, Doreen, C. J. Ellis, CannelPs 
 Crimson, Cloth of Gold, Edith Pagram, Earlswood Beauty, 
 Felicity, Felix, Florrie Stevens, Grade Trower, Kitty 
 Bourne, Marguerite Pink, Mary Richardson, May Ellis, 
 Mensa, Merstham Jewel, Merstham Tints, Merstham 
 White, Miss Mary Anderson, Mrs. Hazlehurst, Mrs. E. 
 Gannett, Nellie Riding, Pink Felicity, Peter Pan, Robert 
 Thorp, Rose Pink, Roupel Beauty, Sylvia Slade, W. Buck- 
 ingham, White Pagram, Winnie Wells, Winnie Sherring. 
 
 Good Singles for Pot Culture. 
 
 Albert Williams, Alice Crate, Altrincham Yellow, Can- 
 n ell's Yellow, Charles Graves, Doreen, Emily Clibran, 
 Felix, Florrie Stevens, Grace, Gratchen, Innovation, Kitty 
 Bourne, Ladysmith, Mary Richardson, Merstham White, 
 Miss Irene Cragg, Miss Mary Anderson, Mrs. E. Isaacs, 
 Mrs. Sam. Nash, Nellie Riding, Robert Thorp, Rose Pink, 
 Sylvia Slade. 
 
 Twelve Large Anemone s. 
 
 Delaware, Descartes, Ernest Cooper, Gluck, Junon, Mrs. 
 Caterer, John Bunyan, Mrs. H. Gardener, Mrs. H. Eland, 
 Mrs. Shimimins, Sovr. de D. Souille, W. W. Astor. 
 
 Twelve Pompoms for Exhibition. 
 
 Aurora Borealis, Black Douglas, Elsie Walker, Lizzie 
 Holmes, Maid of Kent, Miss Bateman, Nellie Rainford, 
 President, Prince of Orange, W. Kenedy, Win. Sabey, W. 
 Westlake. 
 
 Twelve Anemone Pompoms for Exhibition. 
 
 Aglaia, Antonius, Astarte, Bessie Flight, Briolas, 
 Calliope, Emily Rowbottom, Marguerite de Col, Marie 
 Stuart, Mdm. Sentir, Mr. Astie, Perle. 
 
THE BEST BLOOMS FOR EXHIBITION. 123 
 
 Twenty -four Early Double Varieties for 
 Borders. 
 
 (Not to be disbudded). 
 
 Auguste, Border Beauty, Carmelite, Carrie, Champ d 'Or, 
 Connie, Crimson Diana, Diana, Ethel Blades, Francis, 
 Harrie, Holmes White, J. J. Hart, Leslie, Lillie, Nina 
 Blick, Provence, Perle Rose, Rosie, Savoie, Tapis de 
 Neige, Tonkin, Tottie, Wells' Scarlet. 
 
 
 
 Twenty-four Early l>ouble Varieties for 
 Cutting. 
 
 (d for Disbudding, s for Sprays.) 
 
 Ethd Blades, s. ; Fee Parisienne, d. ; Goacher's Crimson, 
 d. ; Golden Glow, d. ; Hector, d. ; J. Bannister, d. or s. ; 
 Jimmie, d. ; Le Cygne, d. ; James Bateman, d. or s. ; 
 Leslie, d. or s. ; Mrs. E. V. Freeman, d. or s. ; Normandie, 
 d. or s. ; Nina Blick, d. or s. ; Perle Chatillonaise, d. or 
 s. ; Perle Rose, d. ; Polly, d. or s. ; Primevere, d. ; Roi 
 des Blancs, d. or s. ; Savoie, d. or s. ; Tapis d'or, d. ; 
 Tonkin, d. or s. ; ( Weflls' Primrose, d. ; White Quintus, s. 
 
 Twenty-four Early Flowering Singles for 
 Borders. 
 
 Brazier's Beauty, Carrie Luxford, Dominion, Eric, Gold- 
 lace, Good Hope, Hilda's Favourite, Jessie Wallace, Kate 
 Carter, Kate Westlake, Kitty Graham, Marie Corelli, 
 Mary, Marion Bannister, Merstham Glory, Mrs. Earile, 
 Nellie King, Nellie Riding, Snowstorm, Spitfire, Surrey, 
 Walton Bradbury, Wells' Pride, White City. 
 
 T wenty-four October Double Varieties for 
 Cutting. 
 
 Adonis, Caprice du Printemps, Diiane, Ernest Daudet, 
 Etoile Blanch, Flore, Kathleen Thompson, Le Cygne, Le 
 Pactole, Lizzie Adcock, Mdlle. Melaine Fabre, Miss Doris 
 Raeburn, Mons. W. Holmes, Mrs. E. V. Freeman, October 
 Gold, Primevere, Source d'or, Soleil d'Octobre, Terracotta 
 Soleil d'Octobre, White Caprice, White Countess, White 
 Quintus, Crimson Precocite, Mdlle. Elise Dordan. 
 
124 THE CULTURE OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
 
 The foregoing: varieties will generally flower out-of-doors 
 except a frost of six or eight degrees occurs. 
 
 Twenty-four November Double Varieties 
 for Cutting. 
 
 Clara Vurnum, Cannell's late Prolific, Felton's Favourite, 
 Foxhunter, Freda Bedford, Hortus Tdlosanus, Market Red, 
 Mdlle. Marguerite Desjouis, Miss M. Godfrey, Money- 
 maker, Mrs. A. Duncan, Nellie Pockett, Hetty Wells, 
 Western King, Parson's White, Petite Renee, Phos- 
 phorescens, R. F. Felton, Emibleme Poitivene, Mrs. Dixon, 
 Mrs. George Runddl, William Biddle, Romance, 
 Buttercup. 
 
 Tnirty December and January Double 
 Varieties for Cutting. 
 
 A. J. Balfour, Bronze Princess Victoria, Docteur Engue- 
 hard, Golden Thompson, Golden Princess Victoria, Heston 
 White, Mdm. H. Douillet, Market Gold, Matthew Hodg- 
 son, Miss Clay Frick, Miss Miriam Hankey, Mrs. Joseph 
 Thompson, Mrs. W. Elliott, Nagoya, Snowflake, Satin 
 Rose, Tuxedo, Violet Lady Beaumont, W. Duckham, 
 White Queen of the Exe, Winter Cheer, Wells' late Pink, 
 Mrs. Fi'lkins, Sam Caswelll, Louisa Giles, Mrs. F. Judson, 
 Miss Muriel Smith, Mrs. Barkley, Thorp's Christmas Rose, 
 Major Bonnaffon. 
 
 Some of the Best Novelties in 19O9. 
 
 Mrs. R. Luxford, Rose Ellis, Alice Lemon, Kara Dow, 
 White Queen, Empress, Mary Farnsworth, Favourite, 
 Leviathan, Laura Hill, Miss L. HaM, Mrs. R. H. B. 
 Marsham, Mrs. Thornton, Mrs. W. Iggulden (yellow sport 
 from Mdm. G. Rivol), Mary (yellow sport from Mrs. C. 
 Beckett), Maggie Bailliie, Francis Joliffe, J. Wynn, Fanny 
 Lemon, Howard Gould (this variety was shown as Bessie 
 G. Payne in Engfland, in 1909, but it had previously been 
 named Howard Gould by W. Wells while in America). 
 
BUTTON'S 
 
 CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
 
 from Seed 
 
 The Culture of Chrysanthemums 
 from Seed is as simple as that of 
 Primulas or Stocks. The Seedlings 
 produce the widest possible range of 
 colours in the most beautiful double, 
 semi-double, and single flowers of 
 exquisite form. 
 
 Seeds sown from January to March 
 will produce plants which bloom the 
 same year. 
 
 Mixed Colours, per packet, 2/6, post free. 
 
 For prices and full particulars of all the best varieties of 
 
 VEGETABLE SEEDS, 
 
 FLOWER SEEDS, 
 
 SEED POTATOES, etc, see 
 
 Sutton's Amateur's Guide in Horticulture. 
 
 Published annually in December. Post Free. 
 
 SUTTON & SONS, 
 
 The King's Seedsmen, READING. 
 
WELLS' CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
 
 Lists Issued. 
 
 1st September - * Early Flowering Chrysanthemums 
 
 and Hardy Plant Preliminary List. 
 
 1st November * - Descriptive and General Catalogue. 
 
 1st January - - Special List of Chrysanthemum 
 
 Novelties. 
 
 Sent Post Free on receipt of a Card. 
 
 W. Wells & Co., Ltd., 
 
 Chrysanthemum Nurseries, 
 
 M erst ham, Surrey. 
 
 Telegrams : " Wells, Merstham." 
 
 It is easy to open a lock when you have found the 
 right key! The key to the most successful 'Mum 
 culture /s . . . . 
 
 BARNES' NITRIC DIET. 
 
 The complete "SOIL SCIENCE" MANURE. 
 
 In Tins, 6d. & I/-; In Bags : 7 Ibs. 2/6, 14 Ibs. 4/6, 28 Ibs. 
 
 7/6, 56 Ibs. 12/6, 1 cwt. 20/-. Your Seedsman can supply 
 
 you if he will, if he won't, we Pay Carriage on 7 Ibs. and 
 
 upwards. 
 
 R. J. BARNES & SON, 
 
 MANURE MANUFACTURERS, 
 
 N.B. " Nitric Diet " is in no way related to any previously 
 known " Nitro ' or " Nitrate." But is safely, and wiih advan- 
 tage, used for the first and every potting. 
 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
 
 LOVE 
 
 Clay's Fertilizer 
 
 and thrive upon it. 
 
 It is the 
 PLANT FOOD OF RENOWN. 
 
 t produces all Flowers, Foliage, Fruits, and Vegetables in profusion 
 
 and in the highest perfection. 
 It is indispensable for all Horticultural purposes. 
 
 Every Exhibit grown with 
 
 CLAY'S FERTILIZER 
 
 Catches the Judge's Eye 
 
 Sold everywhere in Tins, 6d. and I/-; and in 
 o Branded and Sealed Bags, 7-lbs., 2/6; 14-lbs. 
 ^ 4/6; 28-lbs., 7/6; 56 Ibs., 12/6; 112-lbs , 2O/- , 
 or direct from the Works, Carriage Paid in 
 tne united Kingdom, for Cash with Order 
 << <(/ (except 6d. Tins). 
 
 <?>. ,\v 
 
 * ' * Every Tin. Bag and Seal bears the Trade Mark the 
 
 TRADE MARK. only guTantee of genuineness. 
 
 Directions for Use arc included in the Horticultural Wonder Book 
 
 Clay's Successful Gardening. 
 
 Fourth edition. 276 pages. Bound in Cloth. Well illustrated. I 
 of Up- to date, Practical information upon Gardening under Glass and 
 the Open, the Culture of Speciality Flowers, Rock and Suburban Gard 
 ing, by eminent writers. Price 9d. net , from all Seedsmen ; or post free 
 for this amount direct from the Publishers. 
 
 Price List of Manures, Chemicals and Sundries upon application. 
 
 JBr Q/\rt Manure Manufacturers and 
 Ot OOn, Bone Crushers. 
 
 STRATFORD, LONDON, E. 
 
"ABSOLUTELY' 
 CLEARS AWAY THRIP 
 IN CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
 
 Th Perfect S prayer. 
 
 E. H. SMITH, 
 
 (Late Instructor in Ag- 
 ricultural Subjects. 
 Wilts County Council). 
 
 APHIS & 
 
 MILDEW KILLED 
 
 BY SPRAYING WITH 
 
 "ABOL" 
 
 White's 
 
 Superior 
 
 I NSECT1CIDE. 
 
 IT IS .... 
 
 Non- Poisonous, 
 The Most Effective, 
 
 THEREFORE . . . 
 
 The Cheapest Wash 
 
 . . . ON THE MARKET. 
 
 PRICES (Carriage Paid) : 
 Pints. I Quarts. I J-Gallons. I Gallons. 
 1/6 2/6 ! 4/- I 7/6 A 
 
 TLSTING SAMPLE, POST FREE, 3D. S 
 
 "Spraying a Pleasure 
 
 Instead of a Terror. ' ' 
 
 (George Massee, Esq. 
 
 V.M.H.. F.L.S., Royal Gardens, 
 Kew). 
 
 THE 
 
 ABOL" PATENT SYRINGE is also . 
 
 ECONOMICAL IN USE.- 
 
 PRICES : 8/6, 10/6, 14/6, Postage 4d. 
 BENDS '"A" (for spraying undersides of leaves) 1/6 Extra 
 
 ' : Abol "Goods are Stocked by all Seedsmen, Ironmongers, 
 Chemists, etc. 
 
 Further information from Sole Proprietors and 
 Manufacturers, 
 
 E. A. WHITE, Ltd., 
 
 Fruit Growers, Dept. C.H., Paddock Wood, Kent. 
 
Mildew and Disease Cure. 
 
 An apparatus de- 
 signed to safely 
 vaporise sulphur. 
 Absolutely the best 
 method extant for 
 destroying mildew 
 and other diseases 
 of plants in green- 
 houses. Hundreds 
 of testimonials to 
 this effect. 
 
 PRICES:- 
 
 No. 1, for houses up 
 to 5,000 cubic feet, 
 
 12/-. 
 
 No. 2, for houses up 
 
 to 10 OOO cubic feet, 
 
 16/- 
 
 C AMP BELLS NICO SOAP. 
 
 Introduced as a Liquid Insecticide, which may be used on a 
 
 wholesale scale at a reason able cost. 
 
 For destroying Green and Black Fly, Thrip, Red Spider, etc., 
 
 Nico Soap is probably the best, cheapest, and safest 
 
 Insecticide on the market. 
 
 PRICES : 
 
 Mb. Tins. I lib. Tins. I lOlb. Tins. 
 
 I/- 2/- 18/6 
 
 lib. is sufficient to make upwards of 40 gallons splendid wash. 
 
 FOB FURTHER PARTICULARS SEE LIST. 
 
 MANUFACTURERS : 
 
 . Robert 
 
 Water Street, Manchester. 
 
Advertisements. 
 
 Wells' Hardy Plants. 
 
 Although chrysanthemums are our great speciality, we 
 have now stocked a splendid collection of Hardy Plants, 
 having largelly extended our grounds, in a nice open posi- 
 tion (about half a mile from Merstham Station, on the 
 main London to Brighton road), which affords us every 
 facility to supply our customers with good stocky plants. 
 
 Michaelmas Daisies, Phlox Decussata, Pyrethrum, Pent- 
 stemons, Poppies Orienta'le, Potentillias and Rambler 
 Roses are grown in great quantities and variety. No 
 trouble or expense has been spared to obtain all the newest 
 and best varieties that can be had. 
 
 All are invited 'to come to inspect our Nurseries, whether 
 in view of purchase or not. They are always open to 
 the public. 
 
 Every order has our own personal attention, and cus- 
 tomers can rely upon having prompt delivery. 
 
 If the selection is left to us, purchasers may depend upon 
 having special value and varieties only that wifll give satis- 
 faction. 
 
 When cash is enclosed with order, goods are packed and 
 sent carriage or post free if the order is above 55. for 
 hardy plants, or 25. 6d. for all orders of chrysanthemums; 
 otherwise box and carriage or post are charged extra. 
 
 POTENTILLIAS. 
 
 This is a very attractive border plant, and produces 
 throughout the season an abundance of charming and 
 briWiant flowers, with colours varying from rich shades of 
 yellow to the deepest crimson. The foliage, which is very 
 like the strawberry, gives the plants a pretty effect. They 
 will grow in any soil. 
 
 Our selection, 55. per doz. 
 
 FronT WELLS' NURSERIES, MERSTHAMrSURREY. 
 
A dvertisements. 
 
 PAPAVER, ORIENTALE. 
 
 These are hardy plants, and worthy of a place in every 
 garden. The flowers are produced on long stiff stems, many 
 measuring nine inches in diameter. The newer varieties 
 have most delicate and beautiful shades, and form one of 
 the most striking and effective plants in the herbaceous 
 borders. In deeply dug soil they produce an abundance of 
 bloom the first season they are planted. 
 
 Our selection, 55. per doz. 
 
 PHLOX DECUSSATA. 
 
 This specie of Phlox have remarkable shades of colour. 
 They begin to flower from the end of July, and last for 
 fully two months. Many of the trusses measure from 12 to 
 1 8 inches in diameter, and are very effective in borders. 
 They do welll in fairly heavy rich soil, and shoufld have a 
 good mulching of rotten manure in spring. Slugs are 
 very partial to the young growths, so it is advisable to give 
 a dressing of lime or soot where they are troublesome. 
 
 Prices vary from 6d. to 35. 6d. each, purchasers' 
 selection. 
 
 Our selection, 55. to 135. per doz. 
 
 PYRETHRUMS. 
 
 Pyrethrums are far more extensively cultivated now than 
 in former years, owing to the early flowering and 
 very long period that flowers can be obtained. If cut down 
 after the first flowers have done they produce ano'her 
 crop in the autumn. It is a species that is uninjured by 
 sun or rain. They thrive in any good soil, but are best 
 if given a good mulching, especially in dry soil. 
 
 Our selection, double or single varieties, 55. per doz. 
 
 From WELLS' NURSERIES, MERSTHAM, SURREY. 
 
Advertisements. 
 
 ASTERS OR MICHAELMAS DAISIES. 
 
 These charming- plants are fast becoming popular, which 
 they well deserve to do, owing to their gracefulness, being 
 most useful for borders and the abundance of sprays they 
 produce for decorative purposes. The flowers range from 
 | to 2 in. in diameter, and will grow in almost any situa- 
 tion and soil. We stock about 150 varieties, some in very 
 flar^e quantities, and keep adding new varieties of any 
 value, so are able to recommend the best to customers. 
 
 Our selection, best sorts, 6 for 3$. 6d. ; 12 for 6s. 
 Cheaper various, 12 for 55. 
 
 WELLS' GOLD MEDAL PENTSTEMONS. 
 
 We can safely say we have one of the finest strains of 
 Pentstemons in the country, producing spikes 2 ft. 6 in. 
 high, carrying flowers more than half the lengths. The 
 colours have a very wide range, being scarlet, crimson, 
 pink, purple, rose, and almost white. Some of the bells 
 have throats beautifully pencilled and blotched, while 
 others are quite clear. When massed together they form 
 a very attractive group that is hard to beat, and are 
 admired by all who see them. They should be planted in 
 good rich soil. 
 
 Our selection, named varieties, from 55. per doz. 
 ,, unnamed ,, ,, 3s. 
 
 PENTSTEMONS. 
 
 Seed can also be obtained in is. and 2s. 6d. packets, 
 
 which should be sown in February, and treated just the 
 
 same as Asters and Stocks. 
 
 CATALOGUES FREE. 
 
 From^WtLLS' NURSERIES, MERSTHAM, SURREY. 
 
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