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 ^WEUNIVER! ^10SANCFI%
 
 THIRTY YEARS 
 
 ARCTIC REGIONS: 
 
 OB, 
 
 (Tl)t ^bbniturrs nf 
 
 SIR JOHN FRANKLIN. 
 
 NEW- YORK : 
 
 GEORGE OOO PBR, PUBLISHER, 
 
 No. 8 SPRUCB STH KKT. 
 1859. 
 
 Ln ASSOC!
 
 Entered, according to Act of Congreas, in the year 1859, by 
 
 H . DAYTON, 
 
 In the Clerk'B Offlje of the Dial net Court of the United States for the 
 Southern District of New York.
 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 This volume gives a graphic narrative of the adv< iiturcs 
 in Arctic Regions of perhaps the most celebrated Arctic 
 traveler of this, or other times. Graphic— because in the 
 main, Sir John Franklin tells his owu story. Apart from 
 the interesl of the narrative, and its intrinsic merits, the 
 deep interest, which for years has been felt in the fate of 
 Sir John Franklin, will attract attention to the story of 
 his early adventures, now, for the first time, pr< Bentcd in 
 a cheap and readable shape. The narrative of Sir John's 
 first Polar Sea Expedition, we venture to say, is unsur- 
 passed among books of travel and adventure for into 
 all-absorbing interest. 
 
 The book sketches Franklin's three expeditions, and 
 
 . a all the information t" be had respecting the fourth 
 and last sad one which will forever be shrouded in mys- 
 tery to this world. We also add a sketch of the expedi- 
 tions sent in search of Franklin, and their results. 
 
 Franklin's first journey into Arctic Regions was made 
 
 1236883
 
 VI PREF AC i". . 
 
 in 1816, when the English nation was roused to a strong 
 desire for the acquisition of geographical knowledge 
 in British America and the Arctic Zone. His second, two 
 or three years later. His third in 1825, and the last in 
 1845. We have endeavored to select the pith of his 
 story from the bulky volumes inaccessible to the general 
 reader, >ind, indeed, out of print long ago ; and now to 
 be found only witli old book collections in stray copies in 
 English cities. In reading this true story of the adven- 
 tures of a truly brave man, the reader cannot fail to per- 
 ceive that in this case, at least, truth is more strange and 
 more interesting than fiction. 
 
 Washington, D. C. D. W. B,
 
 THIRTY YEARS 
 
 IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Bib John Franklin's first expedition to the Arctic 
 us was made in the year L816, as Lieutenant 
 under Captain Buehan, with the ships" Dorothea" and 
 " Trent." 
 
 After mucli difficulty, these vessels gained lat. 
 
 80 deg. 34 min., north of Spitzbergen ; hut were ob- 
 
 edily to withdraw, and try their fortune off 
 
 the western edge of the pack. Here, however,a wild 
 
 war of ICO and waves prevailed, BO that choiceand Q6- 
 
 cessity equally induced the bold experiment of dash- 
 ing through it, to take shelter in the puck. First 
 went the " Dorothea," and then the " Trent," whose 
 med to a man imbued with the dauntless 
 spirit of the Lie a tenant in command. A dreadful 
 pause preceded the critical moment " Each pei 
 says Beechey, in his narrative, " instinctively secured 
 his own hold, and, with his eyes fixed upon his i
 
 8 Thirty Years 
 
 awaited in breathless anxiety the moment of concus- 
 sion. It soon arrived — the brig, cutting her way 
 through the light ice, came in violent contact with the 
 main body. In an instant we all lost our footing, the 
 masts bent with the impetus, and the cracking tim- 
 bers from below bespoke a pressure which was calcu- 
 lated to awaken our serious apprehensions." The 
 gloominess of the scene and circumstances was not 
 cheered by the dolorous tolling of the ship's great 
 bell, which never sounded of itself in the roughest 
 gale, but now was so swung by the violent motion of 
 the ship, that its deep tones pealed forth like a death- 
 knell, and the officers, fearing the awakened supersti- 
 tion of the men, ordered it to be muffled. A few 
 hours released the vessels from their imprisonment, 
 but the " Dorothea" was found to be completely dis- 
 abled. A short time at Fairhaven in Spitzbcrgen was 
 spent in necessary repairs, and even then she was unfit 
 for any further service than the voyage to England. 
 Franklin volunteered to prosecute the enterprise with 
 the " Trent" alone, but the Admiralty orders opposed 
 such a proceeding, and the vessels returned home in 
 company. 
 
 In L819, Sir John Franklin — then Captain Frank- 
 lin — was appointed to the command of an Expedition 
 from the Bhores of Hudson's Bay, to explore the 
 Northern Coast of America, from the mouth of Cop-
 
 In th An tic 1 1- 
 
 per Mine River eastward. This is probably tl 
 thrilling Arctic Expedition on record, and we Bhall 
 give it in Franklin's own won! ion 
 
 c insiste 1 of John Franklin, < lommander ; John Ri 
 ardson, Doctor ; G B h and R >b srl Hood, I 
 
 niralty Midshipmen. Th of the 11 • 
 
 Bay ( 'ompany were ordi i 
 
 in every possible way. The two Admiralty Midship- 
 men were to make drawings of the land and wa1 
 and Doctor Richards naturalist as well a 
 
 tor to the Expedil 
 
 On Sunday, the 23 ! . [ay, 181 t, the 
 
 sail from < Sravesend, and arrived al Budt 
 August I 1. ana at York Fad 
 1 1 pernor of the Company here i 
 party. The Norths pany and fch 
 
 pany were, at this time, in violent opposition to i 
 other, which was unfortunate for the Expedition. 
 The < Governor of the Buds m'a B 
 the party one of the largest of his boats, and a crew 
 was made up from the ship's company, with the ex- 
 ception of I n, wh<» was furnishi d by 
 I nor. 
 
 ■ narrath ■ nces in Cap- 
 
 tain Franklin.
 
 10 Thirty Years 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 On the 9th of September, 1819, our boat being 
 completed, arrangements were made for our departure 
 as soon as the tide should serve. But, when the 
 stores were brought down to the beach, it was found 
 that the boat would not contain them all. The whole, 
 therefore, of the bacon, and part of the flour, rice, to- 
 bacco, and ammunition, were returned into the store. 
 The bacon was too bulky an article to be forwarded 
 under any circumstances ; but the Governor undertook 
 to forward the rest next season. In making the selec- 
 tion of articles to carry with us, 1 was guided by the 
 judgment of Governor Williams, who assured me that 
 tobacco, ammunition, and spirits, could be procured 
 in the interior, otherwise 1 Bhould have been very un- 
 willing to hare left these essential articles behind. 
 We embarked ;it ooon, and werehoDored withasalute 
 of efghl guns and three cheers from the Go vera or and 
 all the inmate.- of the fort, assembled to witnei 
 departure. We gratefully returned their cheers, and 
 i!i«ii made Bail, much delighted at having uow emu-
 
 In the An 1 1 
 
 menced our voyage into the interior of Auk-. 
 wind and tide failing ua al the distance of 
 above the Factory, and the current being too raj 
 using oars to advantage, the crew had to eomrj 
 tracking, or dragging the boat by a line, to whir! 
 were harness- d. This operation is extremely Lab 
 in these livos. Our men were obliged to walk 
 the Bteep declivity of a high bank, rendered at this 
 season soft and Blippery by frequent rains, and their 
 progress was often further impeded by fallen 
 which, having Blipped from the verge of the 
 
 above, hung on the face of the bank in ■ great 
 variety of dii Notwithstanding I 
 
 stacles, however, we advanced at the rate of two 
 miles an hour, one-hall' of the crew reli 
 other at intervals of an hour and a half. The banks 
 of the river, and its islands, composed of alluvia] 
 are well covered with pines, Larches, poplars, and wil- 
 lows. The breadth of the stream some disti i 
 
 'actory is about half a mile, and its depth during 
 
 lay's voyage varied from three to ai 
 At Bunset we Landed, and pitched the tent for the 
 
 . having mad' a ; .' twelve mile . 
 
 fire was quickly kindled, supper speedily prepar- 
 ed, and as readily despatched, when we retired with 
 our buffalo a, and enjoyed a night of sound re- 
 
 I
 
 12 Thirty Years 
 
 The next morning our camp was in motion at five 
 A. M., and we soon afterwards embarked with the flat- 
 tering accompaniment of a fair wind : it proved, how- 
 ever, too light to enable us to stem the stream, and 
 we were obliged to resume the fatiguing operation of 
 tracking, sometimes under cliffs so steep that the men 
 could scarcely find a footing, and not unfrequently 
 over spots rendered so miry, by the small streams that 
 trickled from above, as to be almost impassable. In 
 the course of the day we passed the scene of a very 
 melancholy accident. Some years ago two fami- 
 lies of Indians, induced by the flatness of a small 
 beach, which lay betwixt the cliff and the river, chose 
 it as the site of their encampment. They retired 
 quietly to rest, not aware that the precipice, detached 
 from the bank, aud urged by an accumulation of wa- 
 1 r in the crevice behind, was tottering to its base. 
 It fell during the night, and the whole party was buried 
 under its ruins. 
 
 The length of our voyage to-day was, in a direct 
 litie, sixteen miles and a quarter, on a S. S. W. course. 
 We encamped soon after sunset, and the tent was 
 
 ;«■ ly pitched when it began to rain heavily, and 
 c mtinued i" do so all night. 
 
 Sixteen miles on the 11th, and five on the following 
 
 iming, brought us to the eommeiicenient of Hayes' 
 
 River, which is formed by the confluence of the Shu-
 
 Tn /A- Arctic Regions. 13 
 
 mattawa and Steel Ri Our observations place 
 
 this spot in latitude 56 deg. 22 min. 32 Bee. N"., longi- 
 tude 93 deg. 1 min. 37 sec, \V. It is forty-eight 
 miles and a half from York Factory, including the 
 
 windings of the river. Steel River, through which 
 our course lay, is about three hundred yards wide at 
 its mouth ; its banks have more elevation than those 
 of Hayes' River, but they shelve more gradually down 
 to the stream, and afford a tolerably good towing path, 
 which comp in Borne degree, for the rapids and 
 
 frequenl Bboals that impede its navigation. We suc- 
 Led in getting about ten miles above the mouth of 
 the river, before the close of the day compelled us to 
 disembark. 
 
 We made an effort, on the morning of the 13th, to 
 stem the current under sail, but as the course of the 
 liver was very serpentine, we found that greater pro- 
 gress could be made by tracking. Steel River presents 
 much beautiful scenery ; it winds through a narrow, 
 but well wooded valley, which, at every turn disclos- 
 ed to us an agreeable variety of prospect, rendered 
 more picturesque by the effect of the season on the 
 foliage, now ready to drop from the trees. The light 
 yellow of the lading poplars formed a fine contrast to 
 the dark ■ spruce, whilst the willows, 
 
 of an intermediate hue, served to shade the two prin- 
 cipal masses of color into each other. The scene
 
 14 _ Thirty Years 
 
 was occasionally enlivened by the bright purple tints 
 of the dogwood, blended with the browner shades of 
 the dwarf birch, and frequently intermixed with the 
 gay yellow flowers of the shrubby cinquefoil. With 
 all these charms, the scene appeared desolate from the 
 want of the human species. The stillness was so 
 great, that even the twittering of the Whisheij-john- 
 eesh, or cinereous crow, caused us to start. Our voy- 
 age to-day was sixteen miles on a S. W. course. 
 
 Sept. 14. — We had much rain during the night, 
 and also in the morning, which detained us in our 
 encampment later than usual. We set out as soon 
 as the weather cleared up, and in a short time arrived 
 at the head of Steel River, where it is formed by the 
 junction of Fox and Hill Rivers. These two rivers 
 are nearly of equal width, but the latter is the most 
 rapid. Mr. M'Donald, on his way to Red River, in a 
 small canoe, manned by two Indians, overtook us at 
 this place? It maybe mentioned as a proof of the 
 terity of tli'' Indians, and the skill witli which 
 they steal upon their game, that they had en the 
 preceding day, with do other anus than a hatchet, 
 killed two deer, a hawk, a curlew, and a sturgeon. 
 Three of the Company's boats joined us in the cou 
 of the morning, and we pursued our course up Hill 
 r in company. The water in this river was so 
 
 low. and the rapids so bad, tint we were obliged
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 15 
 
 ral times, in the course of the day, to jump into 
 the water, and assist in lifting the boat over the large 
 stones which impeded the navigation. The Length of 
 our voyage to-day was only six miles and thn e 
 quart 
 
 The lour boats commenced operations together ai 
 live o'clock the following morning ; but our boat 
 being overladen, we soon found that we were unable 
 to keep pace with the others ; and therefore prop 
 t i the gentlemen in i i the Compan) '- 
 
 that they should relieve us of part of our cargo. This 
 they declined doing, under the plea of not having 
 received orders to that effect, notwithstanding that the 
 circular, with which I was furnished by Governor 
 WilliamB, Btriotly enjoined all the Company's servants 
 to afford as. every assistance. In consequence oi this 
 refusal we dropt b hind, and mir Bte rsman, who was 
 inexperienced, being thus deprived of the advanta 
 of observing the mute followed by the guidS, who was 
 in the foremost boat, frequently took a wrong channel. 
 The tow-line brok • twice, and the boat was only pre- 
 vented from going broadside down the stream, and 
 breaking to pieces againc stones, by the o£B i 
 
 and men leaping into the water, and holding her bead 
 to the current until the line could be carried again to 
 the slmre. It is hut justice to say, that in th 
 trying situations we received much assistance i'i
 
 16 Thirty Tears 
 
 Mr. Thomas Swayne, who with great kindness waited 
 for us with the boat under his charge, at such places 
 as he apprehended would be most difficult to pass. 
 We encamped at sunset, completely jaded with toil. 
 Our distance made good this day was twelve miles 
 and a quarter. 
 
 The labors of the 16th commenced at half-past five, 
 and for some time the difficulty of getting the boats over 
 the rapids was equal to what we experienced yester- 
 day. Having passed a small brook, however, termed 
 Half-way Creek, the river became deeper, and although 
 rapid, it was smooth enough to be named by our 
 Orkney boatmen Still-water. We were further re- 
 lieved by the Company's clerks consenting to take a 
 few boxes of our stores into their boats. Still we 
 made only eleven miles in the course of the day. 
 
 The banks of Hill Kiver are higher, and have a 
 more broken outline, than those of Steel or Haye's 
 Rivers. The cliffs of alluvial clay rose in some places 
 to the height of eighty or ninety feet above the 
 Stream, and were surmounted by hills about two hun- 
 dred feet high, but the thickness of the wood pre- 
 vented us from seeing far beyond the mere banks of 
 the river. 
 
 Si ]>l. 17. — About half-past ilvc in the morning we 
 commenced tracking, and soon came to a ridge ot 
 rock which extended across the stream. From this
 
 In the Artie Regions. 17 
 
 place the boat was dragged up several narrow rocky 
 channels, until we came to the Rock-Portage, where 
 the stream, pent in by a range of small islands, forms 
 iral cascades. In ascending the river, the boats 
 with their cargoes are carried over one of the islands, 
 hut in the descent they are shot down the most 
 shelving of the cascades. Having performed the 
 Operations of carrying, launching and re-stowing the 
 cargo, wo plied the oars for a short distance, and 
 landed at a depdt called Bock-House. Here we were 
 informed that tin- rapids in tin 1 upper parts of Hill 
 River were much worse and more numerons than 
 those we had passed, particularly in the present 
 season, owing to the unusual lowness of the water. 
 This intelligence was very mortifying, especially a.s 
 the gentlemen in charge of the Company's boa;s 
 declared that they were unable to carry any part of 
 our stores beyond this place ; and the traders, guide-, 
 and most experienced of the boatmen, were of opinion, 
 that unless our boat was still further lightened, I 
 winter would put a stop to our progress before 
 could reach Cumberland House, or any eligible post 
 Sixteen pieces were therefore necessarily left with Mr. 
 
 Bunn, the gentleman in charge of the poet, t<> he 
 
 forwarded by the Athabasca canoes next season, this 
 being their place "1 rendezvous. 
 
 After this we recommenced our voyage, and having
 
 18 Thirty Years 
 
 pulled nearly a mile, arrived at Borrowick's Fall, 
 -where the boat was dragged up with a line, after part 
 of the cargo had been carried over a small portage. 
 From this place to the Mud Portage, a distance of a 
 mile and three-quarters, the boats were pushed on 
 with poles against a very rapid stream. Here we en- 
 camped, having come seven miles during the day on a 
 S. W. course. We had several snow showers in the 
 course of the day, and the thermometer at bed-time 
 stood at 30°. 
 
 On the morning of the 18 th, the country was clothed 
 in the livery of winter, a heavy fall of snow having 
 taken place during the night. We embarked at the 
 usual hour, and, in the course of the day, crossed the 
 Point of Rocks, and Brassa Portages, and dragged the 
 boats through several minor rapids. In this tedious 
 way we only made good about nine miles. 
 
 On Sunday the 19th, we hauled the boats up sev- 
 eral short rapids, or, as the boatmen term them, 
 rely enough, spouts, and carried them over 
 the Portages of Lower Burntwood and Morgan's 
 •: on the latter of which we encamped, having 
 I, during the whole day, only one mile and 
 . ; fcers, 
 
 upper part of Mill River swells out consider- 
 ably, o an's Rocks, where it la three quar- 
 ; a mile wide, we were gratified with a mon
 
 In the Arctic llcrjions. 19 
 
 tensive prospect of the country than any we had 
 enjoyed since Leaving Fork Factory. The banks of 
 the river here, consisting of low flat rocks with Inter- 
 mediate swamps, permitted us to obtain views of the 
 interior, the surface of which is broken into a multi- 
 tude of cone-shaped hills. The highest of these hills, 
 which gives a name to the river, has an elevation not 
 exceeding six hundred feet. From its summit, thirty- 
 six lakes are said to be visible. The beauty of the 
 scenery, dressed in the tints of autumn, called forth 
 our admiration, and was the subject of Mr. Hood's 
 
 irate pencil. On the' 20th we passed Upper Burnt- 
 wood and Rocky Li dge Pi rti ges 3 besides several strong 
 epouta ; and in the evening arrived at Smooth Rock 
 Portage, where we encamped, having come three miles 
 and a half. It is not i asy for any but an eye-witi 
 to form an adequate idea of tl tions of the Ork- 
 
 ney boatmen in the navigation of this river. The ne- 
 
 ity they are under of frequently jumping into the 
 water, to lit't the boats over the rocks, compels them 
 to remain the whole day in wet clothes, at a season 
 
 when the temperature is far below the freezing point. 
 The immense loads too, which they carry over the 
 portages, is not more a matter of surprise than the 
 alacrity with which they perform these laborious 
 
 duties. 
 
 At six on the morning of the 21st, we lefl our en-
 
 ?i) Thirty Tears 
 
 jampment, and soon after arrived at the Mossy Port- 
 age, where the cargoes were carried through a deep 
 bog for a quarter of a mile. The river swells out, 
 above this portage, to the breadth of several miles, 
 and as the islands are numerous, there are a great va- 
 riety of channels. Night overtook us before we arrived 
 at the Second Portage, so named from its being the 
 second in the passage down the river. Our whole dis- 
 tance this day, was one mile and a quarter. 
 
 On the 22d, our route led us amongst many wooded 
 islands, which lying in long vistas, produced scenes of 
 much beauty. In the course of the day we crossed 
 the Upper Portage, surmounted the Devil's Landing 
 Place, and urged the boat with poles through Ground- 
 water Creek. At the upper end of this creek, our 
 bowman having given the boat too broad a sheer, to 
 avoid the rock, it was caught on the broadside by the 
 current, and, in defiance of our utmost exertions, hur- 
 ried down the rapid. Fortunately, however, it 
 grounded against a rock high enough to prevent the 
 current from overselling it, and the crews of the other 
 boats having come to our assistance, we succeeded, 
 after several trials, in throwing a rope to them, with 
 which they dragged our almost, sinking vessel stern 
 foremost up the Stream, and rescued us from our per- 
 ilous Bit nation. 
 
 We began the a cenl of Trout River early in the
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 21 
 
 morning of the 27th, and in the course of the day 
 passed three portages and several rapids. At the first 
 of these portages the river falls between two rocks 
 about sixteen feet, and it is necessary to launch the 
 boat over a precipitous rocky hank. This pascad< 
 named the Trowt Fall, and the beauty of the Bcenery 
 afforded a subject for Mr. Hood's pencil. The rocks 
 which form the bed of this river are slaty, and present 
 sharp fragments, by which the feet of the boatmen are 
 much lacerated. The Second Portage, in particular, 
 ins the expressive name of A '/■ Portage. The 
 th of our voyage to-day was three miles. 
 On the 28th, we passed through the remainder of 
 Trout River ; and, at noon, arrived at Oxford house, 
 on Holey Lake. This was formerly a post of some 
 consequence to the Hudson's Bay Company, but at 
 present it exhibits unequivocal signs of decay. The 
 Indians have, of late years, been gradually deserl 
 the low or swampy country, and ascending the Sas- 
 katchawan, where animals are more abundant. A few 
 Crees were at this time encamped in front of the fort. 
 They were Buffering under the combined maladies of 
 whooping-cough and measles, and looked miserably 
 dejected. We endeavored in vain to prevail on one of 
 them to accompany as for the purpose of killing du 
 which were numerous, but too shy for our Bportsmi n. 
 We had the satisfaction, however, of exchanging the
 
 22 Thirty Years 
 
 mouldy peimnican, obtained at Swampy Lake, for a 
 better kind, and received, moreover, a small, but very 
 acceptable, supply of fish. Holey Lake, viewed from 
 an eminence behind Oxford House, exhibits a pleasing 
 prospect ; and its numerous islands, varying much in 
 shape and elevation, contribute to break that uniform- 
 ity of scenery which proves so palling to a traveler in 
 this country. Trout of a great size, frequently ex- 
 ceeding forty pounds weight, abound in this lake. 
 We left Oxford House in the afternoon, and encamped 
 on an island about eight miles distant, having come, 
 during the day, nine miles and a quarter. 
 
 At noon, on the 29th, after passing through the 
 remainder of Holey Lake, we entered the Weepinap- 
 annis, a narrow grassy river, which runs parallel to 
 the lake for a considerable distance, and forms its 
 South bank into a narrow peninsula. In the morning 
 we arrived at the Swampy Portage, where two of the 
 boats were broken against the rocks. The length of 
 the day's voyage was nineteen miles and a half. 
 
 In consequence of the accident yesterday evening, 
 we were detained a considerable time this morning, 
 until the boats were repaired, when we Bet out, and 
 after ascending a strong rapid, arrived at the Portage 
 by John Moore's [eland. Here the river rushes with 
 irresistible force through the channels formed by two 
 rocky islands ; and we learnt, that last year a poor
 
 In the A rdic Regioi 23 
 
 man, in hauling a boal ap one of these channels, v 
 by the breaking of the line, precipitated into the 
 :iu and hurried clown the cascade with such rapid- 
 ity, that all efforts to save him were ineffectual. His 
 body was afterwards found and interred near the 
 
 Spot. 
 
 Oct. 1. — II ill Gates is the name imposed on a ro- 
 mantic defile, whose rocky walls rising perpendicu- 
 larly to the height of sixty or eighty feet, hem in the 
 Btream lor three-quarters of a mile, in many places so 
 narrowly, that there is a want of room to ply the 
 oars. In passing through this chasm we were natur- 
 ally led to conteinplate the mighty but, probably, 
 Blow and gradual effects of the water in wearing down 
 Midi vast masses of rock ; hut in the midst of our 
 speculations, the attention was excited anew to a 
 grand and picturesque rapid, which, surrounded by th i 
 most wild and majestic scenery, terminated the defile. 
 The brown fishing-eagle had built its nest on one 
 the projecting cliffs. In the course of the day 
 surmounted this and another dangerous porta 
 called tl er and Lower Hill (late Porta; 
 
 jed a small sheet of water, termed the White-l' 
 Lake, and entering the river o[' the same name, an I 
 at the White Fall about an hour after sunset, bavin ■■• 
 come fourteen miles on a S. \Y. course. 
 
 The whole of the :2d of October was spent in carry-
 
 24 Thirty Years 
 
 ing the cargoes over a portage of thirteen hundred 
 yards in length, and in launching the empty boats 
 over three several ridges of rock which obstruct the 
 channel and produce as many cascades. I shall long 
 remember the rude and characteristic wildness of the 
 scenery which surrounded these falls ; rocks piled on 
 rocks hung in rude and shapeless masses over the 
 agitated torrents which swept their bases, whilst the 
 brio;ht and variegated tints of the mosses and lichens, 
 that covered the face of the cliffs, contrasting with 
 the dark green of the pines, which crowned their 
 summits, added both beauty and grandeur to the 
 general effect of the scene. Our two companions, 
 Eack and Hood, made accurate sketches of these falls. 
 At this place we observed a conspicuous lop-stick, a 
 kind of land-mark, which I have not hitherto noticed, 
 notwithstanding its great use in pointing out the 
 frequented routes. It is a pine-tree divested of its 
 lower branches, and having only a small tuft at the 
 top remaining. This operation is usually performed 
 at the instance of some individual emulous of fame. 
 I": treats his companions with rum, and they in 
 ri turn, strip 1 lie tree of its branches, and ever after 
 n:itc if by his name. 
 In the afternoon, whilst on my way to superintend 
 the operations of tin- men, a stratum of loose moss 
 gave way ander my feet, and I had the misfortune to
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 25 
 
 slip from the summit of a ruck into the river, betwixt 
 two of the falls. My attempts to regain the bank 
 were, for a time, ineffectual, owing to the rocks within 
 my reach having been worn smooth by the action of 
 the water, but after I had been carried a considerable 
 distauce down the stream, I caught hold of a willow, 
 by which I held until two gentlemen of the Hudson's 
 Bay Company came in a boat to my assistance. The 
 only lad consequence of this accident was an injury 
 sustained by a very valuable chronometer, (No. 1733,) 
 belonging to Daniel Moore, Esq., of Lincoln's Inn. 
 One of the gentlemen, to whom I delivered it imme- 
 diately on landing, in his agitation let it fall, whereby 
 the minute-hand was broken, but the works were not 
 in the smallest degree injured, and the loss of the 
 hand was afterwards supplied. 
 
 During the night the frost was severe, and at sun- 
 rise, on the 3d, the thermometer stood at 25°. After 
 Leaving our encampment at the White Fall, we 
 passed through several small lakes connected with 
 each other by narrow, deep, grassy streams, and at 
 noon arrived at the Painted Stone. Numbers of 
 musk-rats frequent these streams, and we observed, 
 in the course of the morning, many of their mud- 
 houses rising in a conical form to the height of two 
 or three feet above the grass of the swamps in which 
 the\ ate built.
 
 26 Thirtg Years. 
 
 Having launched the boats over the rock, we com- 
 menced the descent of the Echemamis. This small 
 stream has its course through a morass, and in dry- 
 seasons its channel contains, instead of water, merely 
 a foot or two of thin mud. On these occasions it is 
 customary to build dams, that it may be rendered 
 navigable by the accumulation of its waters. As the 
 beavers perform this operation very effectually, en- 
 deavors have been made to encourage them to breed 
 in this place, but it has not hitherto been possible to 
 restrain the Indians from killing that useful animal 
 whenever they discover its retreats. On the present 
 occasion there was no want of water, the principal 
 impediment we experienced being from the narrowness 
 of the channel, which permitted the willows of each 
 bank to meet over our heads, and obstruct the men at 
 the oars. After proceeding down the stream for some 
 time, we came to a recently con tructed beaver-dam 
 through which an opening was made sufficient to 
 admit the fyoat to pass. We were assured that the 
 i would be closed by the industrious creature in a 
 night. We encamped about eight miles from 
 the Bource of the river, having come during the day 
 aev nteen miles and a half. 
 
 On the 4th we embarked amidst, a heavy rain, and 
 
 pursued our route down the Echemamis. In many 
 
 :h" morass, by which the river is nourished, and
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 27 
 
 through which it flows, is intersected by ridgea of 
 rock which cross the channel, and require the boal 
 be lifted over them. In the afternoon we pase 
 through a shallow piece of water overgrown with 
 bulrushes, and hence named Hairy Lake ; and in the 
 evening, encamped on the banks of Blackwater-Crei k, 
 by which this lake empties itself into Sea River; 
 having come during the day twenty miles and three- 
 quarfc 
 On the morning of the 5th, we entered Sea River, 
 of the many branches of Nelson River. It is 
 about four hundred yards wide, and its waters are of 
 a muddy white color. After ascending the stream for 
 an hour or two, and passing through Carpeni 
 Lake, which is merely an expansion of the river to 
 about a mile in breadth, we came to the Sea River 
 Portage, where the boat was launched across a Bmooth 
 rock, to avoid a fall of four or five feet. Re-embark- 
 ing at the upper end of the portage, we ran before a 
 fresh gale through the remainder of Sea River, the 
 lower part of Play Greene Lake, and entering Little 
 Jack River, Landed and pitched our tents. Eereth 
 is a sm ill log-hut, the residi ace of a fisherman, who 
 supplies Norway Bouse with trout and Bturge n 
 11,. gave us a Pew of tl . which afforded an 
 
 acceptable Bupper. The length of our voyage this 
 day was thiny-tair miles.
 
 28 Thirty Years 
 
 We left Norway House soon after noon of the 7th, 
 and the wind being favorable, sailed along the north- 
 ern shore of Lake Winipeg the whole of the ensuing 
 night ; and on the morning of the 8 th landed on a 
 narrow ridge of sand, which, running out twenty miles 
 to the westward, separates Limestone Bay from the 
 body of the Lake. When the wind blows hard from 
 the southward, it is customary to carry boats across 
 this isthmus, and to pull up under its lee. From 
 Norwegian Point to Limestone Bay the shore consists 
 of high clay cliffs against which the waves beat with 
 much violence during strong southerly winds. When 
 the wind blows from the land, and the waters of the 
 lake are low, a narrow, sandy beach is uncovered, and 
 affords a landing-place for boats. The shores of 
 Limestone Bay are covered with small fragments of 
 calcareous stones. During the night the Aurora Bo- 
 realis was quick in its motions, and various and vivid 
 in its colors. After breakfasting we re-embarked, and 
 continued our voyage until three P. M., when a strong 
 westerly wind arising, we wen' obliged to shelter our- 
 selves on a small island, which lies near the extremity 
 of the above-mentioned peninsula. This island is 
 formed of a collection of small rolled pieces of Lime- 
 stone, and was remembered by some of our boatmen 
 l<> have beeo formerly covered with water. Fur the 
 1 1 i nil or twelve years tin- waters of (In* lake have
 
 /// the Arctio Itcgions. 29 
 
 been low, bui our information did not enable ua to 
 judge whether the decrease was merely casual, or going 
 
 on continually, or periodical. The distant f this 
 
 island from Norway House is thirty-eight miles and a 
 
 half. 
 
 The westerly winds detained us all the morning of 
 the Oth, hut, at two P. M., the wind choppedround to 
 the eastward : we immediately embarked, and the 
 breeze afterwards freshening, we reached the mouth of 
 the Saskatchawan at midnight, having run thirty-two 
 
 . Oct. 10.— The whole of this day wa 
 cupied in getting the boats from the mouth of the 
 
 river to the foot of the -rand rapid, a distance of two 
 miles. There are several rapids in this short distance 
 during which the river varies its breadth from five 
 hundred yards to half a mile. Its channel is stony. 
 At the grand rapid, the Sa-katehawan formsasudden 
 bend, from south to east, and works its way through 
 a narrow channel, deeply worn into the limestone 
 
 strata. The stream, rushing with impetuous I 
 
 r a rocky and uneven bottom, presents a sheet of 
 foam, and set nis to bear with impatience the straiten- 
 ed confinemenl of its lofty banks. A flock of pelicans, 
 and two or three brown fishing eagles, were Ashing in 
 its agitated water-. Beemingly with great sue 
 There is a good Bturgeon fishery at the foot of the
 
 30 Thirty Tears 
 
 rapid. Several golden plovers, Canadian gros-beaks, 
 cross-bills, wood-peckers, and pin-tailed grouse, were 
 shot to-day ; and Mr. Back killed a small striped 
 marmot. This beautiful little animal was busily em- 
 ployed in carrying in its distended pouches the seeds of 
 the American vetch to its winter hoards. 
 
 The portage is eighteen hundreds yards long, and 
 its western extremity was found to be in 53 deg. 08 
 inin. 25 sec. North latitude, and 99 deg. 28 min. 02 
 sec. West longitude. The route from Canada to the 
 Athabasca joins that from York Factory at the mouth 
 of the Saskatchawan, and we saw traces of a recent 
 encampment of the Canadian voyagers. Our com- 
 panions in the Hudson's Bay boats, dreading an attack 
 from their rivals in trade, were on the alert at this 
 place. They examined minutely the spot of encamp- 
 ment, to form a judgment of the number of canoes 
 that had preceded them ; and they advanced, armed, 
 and with great caution, through the woods. Their 
 fears, however, were fortunately, on this occasion, 
 groundless. 
 
 By noon, on the 12th, the boats and their cargoes 
 having been conveyed across the portage, we embark- 
 ed and pursued our course. The Saskatchawan be- 
 comes wider above the Grand Rapid, and the scenery 
 improves. The banks are high, composed of white 
 clay and limestone, and their Bummits are iichly
 
 In the Arctic Beg ions. 31 
 
 clothed with ;i variety of firs, poplars, birches, aad 
 willows. The current runs with great rapidity, and 
 the channel is, in many places, intricate and dangerous, 
 
 from broken ridges of rock jutting into the stream. 
 We pitched our tents at the entrance of Cross Lake, 
 having advanced <»nly live miles and a half. 
 
 Cross Lake is extensive, running towards the N. E., 
 it is said, for forty miles. We crossed it at the nar- 
 row part, and pulling through several winding chan- 
 nels, formed by a group of islands, entered Cedar 
 Lake, which, next to Lake Winneipeg, is the larg 
 sheet of fresh water we had hitherto seen. Ducks 
 and geese resort hither in immense flocks in the spring 
 and autumn. These lards are now beginning to <ro off. 
 owing to its muddy shores having become quite 1 
 through the nightly frosts. At this place the Aurora 
 
 alis was extremely "brilliant in the night, itscoi 
 cations darting, at times, over the whole sky, and 
 Burning various prismatic tints, of which the violet 
 and yellow were predominant. 
 
 After pulling, on the 14th. Beveu miles and a - 
 ter on the lake, a viol, ait wind drove us for sh< I 
 
 a Bmall island, or rather a ridge of rolled si n 
 
 thrown up by the frequent storms which agitate tl 
 lake. The weather did not moderate the whole d 
 
 and we were obliged to pass the night on this expi 
 spot. The delay, however, enabled us to obtain s
 
 32 Thirty Years 
 
 lunar observations. The wind having subsided, we 
 left our resting-place the following morning, crossed 
 the remainder of the lake, and, in the afternoon, ar- 
 rived at Muddy Lake, which is very appropriately 
 named, as it consists merely of a few channels, wind- 
 ing amongst extensive mud banks, which are overflow- 
 ed during the spring floods. We landed at an Indian 
 tent, which contained two numerous families, amount- 
 ing to thirty souls. These poor creatures were badly 
 clothed, and reduced to a miserable condition by the 
 ravages of the whooping-cough and measles. At the 
 time of our arrival they were busy in preparing a 
 sweating-house for the sick. This is a remedy, which 
 they consider, with the addition of singing and drum- 
 ming, to be the grand specific for all diseases. Our 
 companions having obtained some geese, in exchange 
 for rum and tobacco, we proceeded a few more miles 
 and encamped on Devil's Drum Island, having come, 
 duriug the day, twenty miles and a half. A second 
 party of Indians were encamped on an adjoining 
 island, a situation chosen for the purpose of killing 
 geese and ducks. 
 
 On the 10th we proceeded eighteen miles up the 
 Saskatchawan. Its banks are low, covered with wil- 
 lows, and lined with drift timber. The surrounding 
 country is swampy, and intersected by the numerous 
 arms of the river, After passing for twenty or thirty
 
 In the Arctic Rt giona. 
 
 yards through the willow thicket on the banks of the 
 stream, we entered upon an extensive marsh, varied 
 only by a distant line of willows, which marks the 
 course of ;i creek or branch Of the river. The branch 
 we navigated to-day is almost five hundred yards wide. 
 The exhalations from the marshy soil produced a low 
 fog, although the sky above was perfectly clear. In 
 the course of the day we passed an Indian encamp- 
 ment of three tents, whose inmates appeared to be in 
 a st ill more miserable condition than those we saw 
 yesterday. Tiny had just finished the ceremony ot 
 conjuration over some of their sick companions ; and 
 a dog, which was recently killed as a sacrifice to some 
 deity, was hanging to a tree, where it would be left (I 
 was told) when they moved their encampment. 
 
 We continued our voyage up the river, to the 20th, 
 with little variation of scenery or incident, traveling 
 in that time about thirty miles. The near approach 
 
 of winter was marked by severe frosts, which continued 
 all day, unless when the sun chanced to be unusually 
 bright, and the geese and ducks were observed to take 
 a southerly course in large flocks. On the morning of 
 the 20th we came to a party of [ndians, encamped 
 behind the bank of the river, on tic borders ot' a small 
 
 marshy lake, for the purpose of killing water-fowl. 
 lleiv we were gratified with the view of a very Lai 
 lent. Its length was about forty feet, its breadth 
 
 QO
 
 34 Thirty Tears 
 
 eighteen, and its covering was moose deer leather, 
 with apertures for the escape of the smoke from the 
 fires which were placed at each end ; a ledge of wood 
 was placed on the ground on both sides of the whole 
 length of the tent, within which were the sleeping 
 places, arranged probably according to families ; and 
 the drums and other instruments of enchantment were 
 piled up in the centre. Amongst the Indians there 
 were a great many half-breeds, who lead an Indian 
 life. Governor Williams gave a dram and a piece of 
 tobacco to each of the males of the party. 
 
 On the morning of the 21st, a heavy fall of snow 
 took place, which lasted until two in the afternoon. 
 In the evening we left the Saskatchawan, and entered 
 the Little Eiver, one of the two streams by which 
 Pine Island Lake discharges its waters. We advanced 
 to-day fourteen miles and a quarter. On the 22d, the 
 weather was extremely cold and stormy, and we had 
 to contend against a strong head wind. The spray 
 froze as it fell, and the oars were so loaded witli ice 
 as to be almost unmanageable. The length of our 
 voyage this day was eleven miles. 
 
 The following morning was very cold ; we embarked 
 at daylight, and pulled across a part of Pine Island 
 Lake, about three miles and a half to Cumberland 
 Bouse. 'I'll- margin of tho lake was bo encrusted 
 with ire, that we had to break through a considerable
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 35 
 
 ceofii to approach the landing place. When we 
 idered thai this was the effect of only a few '1 
 frost at the commencement of winter, we were c 
 vinced of the impracticability of advancing further by 
 water this season, and, therefore, resolved on accepting 
 Governor Williams's kind invitation to remain with 
 him at this post. We immediately visited Mr. Con- 
 nolly, the resident partner of the North- West Com- 
 pany, and presented to him Mr. M'Gillivray's circular 
 letter. He assured us that he should be most desir- 
 ous to forward our progress by every means in his 
 power, and we subsequently had ample proofs of his 
 sincerity and kindness. The unexpected addition of 
 our party to the winter residents at this post, rendered 
 an increase of apartments . necessary \ and our men 
 were immediately appointed to complete and arm. 
 an unfinished building as speedily as possible. 
 
 Nov. 8. — Some mild weather succeeded to the se- 
 \ere frosts we had at our arrival ; and the lake had 
 Doi been entirely frozen before the 6th ; hut this morn- 
 ing the ice was sufficiently firm to admit of sled 
 crossing it. The dogs wen- harnessed at a very early 
 hour, and the winter operations commenced by Bend- 
 ing for a supply of fish from Swampy River, whi 
 men had been stationed to collect it, just before the 
 frost set in. Both men and d med to enjoy 
 
 change ; they Started in full glee, and drove rapidly
 
 36 Thirty Years 
 
 alone:. An Indian, who had come to the house on the 
 preceding evening, to request some provision for his 
 family, whom he represented to be in a state of star- 
 varion, accompanied them. His party had been suf- 
 fering greatly under the epidemic diseases of the 
 whooping-cough and measles ; and the hunters were 
 still in too debilitated a state to go out and provide 
 them with meat. A supply was given to him, and 
 the men were directed to bring his father, an old and 
 faithful hunter, to the house, that he might have the 
 comforts of nourishment and warmth. He was 
 brought accordingly, but these attentions were una- 
 vailing, as he died a few days afterwards. Two days 
 before his death, I was surprised to observe him sit- 
 ting for near three hours, in a piercingly sharp day, in 
 the saw-pit, employed in gathering the dust, and 
 throwing it by handfuls over his body, which was 
 naked to the waist. As the man was in possession of 
 his mental faculties, I conceived lie was performing 
 some devotional act preparatory to his departure, which 
 he felt approaching ; and, induced by the novelty of 
 the incident, I went twice to observe him more close- 
 ly ; but when he perceived that he was noticed, he 
 immediately ceased his operation, hung down his head, 
 and by his demeanor, intimated that he considered 
 my appearance an intrusion. The residents ai thefort 
 could give me no information on the subject, and I
 
 /// tin Arctic Regions. 37 
 
 could not learn that the Indians in general ob.- 
 any particular ceremony on the approach of death. 
 
 Nov. 15. — The sky had been overcast during the 
 last week ; the sun Bhone forth once only, and thru 
 not sufficiently for the purpose of obtaining observa- 
 tions. Faint coruscations of the Aurora Borealis ap- 
 
 ued one evening, but their presence did not in the 
 leasi affect the electrometer nor the compass. The 
 ice daily became thicker in the lake, and the frost had 
 now nearly overpowered the rapid current of the Sask- 
 atchawan River ; indeed, parties of men who were sent 
 from both the forts to Bearch forthe Indians, and pro- 
 cure whatever skins and provisions they might have 
 collected, crossed that stream this day on the ice; the 
 white partridges made their first appearance near to 
 the house. These birds arc considered as the infalli- 
 ble harbingers of severe weather. 
 
 Monday, Nov. 22. — The Saskatchawan, and every 
 other liver, were now completely covered with ice, ex- 
 
 C pt a small stream near to the fort through which the 
 current ran very powerfully. In the course of the 
 week we removed into the house our men had been 
 preparing for ub since our arrival. We found it at 
 
 first extremely cold, notwithstanding a g 1 fire was 
 
 kepi in each apartment, and we frequently experi- 
 enced the extremes df heat and cold on opposite sides 
 ot the body.
 
 38 Thirty Years 
 
 Nov. 24. — We this day obtained observations for 
 the dip of the needle and intensity of the magnetic 
 force in a spare room. The dip was 83° 9' 45", 
 and the difference produced by reversing the face of 
 the instrument, 13° 3' 6". When the needle was 
 faced to the west, it hung nearly perpendicular. The 
 Aurora Borealis was faintly visible for a short time 
 last evening. Some Indians arrived in search of pro- 
 vision, having been totally incapacitated from hunting 
 by sickness ; the poor creatures looked miserably ill, 
 and they represented their distress to have been ex- 
 treme. Few recitals are more affecting than those of 
 their sufferings during unfavorable seasons, and in 
 bad situations for hunting and fishing. Many assu- 
 rances have been given me that men and women are 
 yet living who have been reduced to feed upon the 
 bodies of their own family, to prevent actual starva- 
 tion ; and a shocking case was cited to us of a woman 
 who had been principal agent in the destruction of 
 several persons, and amongst the number her husband 
 and nearest relatives, in order to support life. 
 
 Nov. 28. — The atmosphere had been clear every day 
 during flie hist week, about the end of which snow 
 fell, when the thermometer rose from 20° below to 
 L6° above zero. The Aurora Borealis was twice visi- 
 ble, hni laini on both occasions. Its appearance did 
 qoI affeci the electrometer, nor could we perceive the 
 
 <•• >ni j im^-s to he <lis! nilied.
 
 In the Arctic Beg ions. 39 
 
 The men brought supplies of moose meal from the 
 hunter's tent, which is pitched near t lie Basipiiau 
 Hill, at the distance of forty or fifty miles from the 
 house, and from whence the greatest part of the meal 
 is procured. The residents have to send nearly the 
 same distance for their fish, and on this service horse- 
 sledges are used. Nets are daily set in Pine Island 
 Lake, which occasionally procure some fine sturgeon, 
 tittameg and trout, but not more than sufficient to 
 Bupply the officers' table. 
 
 Dec. 1. — This day was so remarkably fine, that we 
 procured another set of observations for the (lip of the 
 needle in the open air ; the instrument being placed 
 firmly on a rock, the results gave 83° 14' 22". The 
 change produced by reversing the face of the instrument 
 was 12° 50' 55". 
 
 There was a determined thaw during the last three 
 days, which caused the Saskatchawan River, and Borne 
 parts of the lake, to break up, and rendered the tra- 
 veling across either of them dangerous. On this ac- 
 count the absence of Wilkes, one of our nun, caused 
 no small anxiety. Be had incautiously undertaken 
 the charge of conduct ing a sledge and dog8, in com- 
 pany with a person, i Swampy River for fish. 
 On their return, being unac 1 to driving, he 
 became fatigued, and seated himself -oil his sledge, in 
 
 which situation his companion left him, presuming
 
 40 Thirty Years 
 
 that he would soon rise and hasten to follow his track. 
 He however returned safe in the morning, and report- 
 ed that, foreseeing night would set in before he could 
 get across the lake, he prudently retired into the 
 woods before dark, where he remained until daylight ; 
 when the men, who had been despatched to look for 
 him, met him returning to the house, shivering with 
 cold, he having been unprovided with the materials 
 for lighting a fire ; which an experienced voyager never 
 neglects to carry. 
 
 AVe had mild weather until the 20th of December. 
 On the 13th there had been a decided thaw, which 
 caused the Saskatchawan, which had again frozen, to 
 re-open, and the passage across it was interrupted for 
 two days. We now received more agreeable accounts 
 from the Indians, who are recovering strength, and 
 beginning to hunt a little ; but it is generally feared 
 that their spirits have been so much depressed by the 
 loss of their children and relatives, that the season will 
 be far advanced before they can be roused to any ex- 
 ertion in searching for animals beyond what maybe 
 ary for their own support. It is much to be re- 
 gretted thai these poor men, during their long inter- 
 course with Europeans, have not been taught how 
 pernicious is the grief whioh produces total inactivity, 
 and that they have do1 been furnished with any of the 
 consolations which the Christian religion never fails to
 
 In (h< Antic Regions. 41 
 
 afford. This, however, could hardly have been ex- 
 pected from persons who have permitted their own off- 
 spring, the half-casts, to remain in Lamentable igno- 
 rance on ;i subjecl of Buch vital importance. It is pro- 
 bable, however, that an improvement will soon take 
 place among the latter class, as Governor "Williams 
 proposes to make the children attend a Sunday school, 
 and has already begun to have divine service perform- 
 ed at his post. 
 
 The conversations which I have had with the gen- 
 tlemen in charge of these posts, convinced me of the 
 necessity of proceeding during the winter into the 
 Athabasca department, the residents of which are 1 
 acquainted with the nature and resources of the coun- 
 try lying to the north of the Great Slave Lake ; and 
 from whence only guides, hunters, and interpreters 
 can be procured. I had previously written to the 
 partners of the North- Wesl Company in that quarter, 
 requesting their assistance in forwarding the Expedi- 
 tion, and stating what we should require of them : 
 but, On reviewing the matter, and reflecting Upon the 
 
 accidents thai might delay these letters on the road, 
 I determined on proceeding to the Athab -oon 
 
 as I possibly could, and communicated my intention 
 to Governor Williams and Mr. Connolly, with a re- 
 quest thai 1 might be furnished, by the middle of Jan- 
 uary, with the moans of conveyance for three persons,
 
 42 Thirty Years 
 
 intending that Mr. Back and Hepburn should accom- 
 pany me, whilst Dr. Eichardson and Mr. Hood re- 
 mained till the spring at Cumberland House. 
 
 After the 20th December the weather became cold, 
 the thermometer constantly below zero. Christmas-day 
 was particularly stormy ; but the gale did not prevent 
 the full enjoyment of the festivities which are annually 
 given at Cumberland House on this day. All the 
 men who had been despatched to different parts in 
 search of provision or furs returned to the fort on the 
 occasion, and were regaled with a substantial dinner 
 and a dance in the evening. 
 
 1820. The new year was ushered in by repeated 
 
 January l. ( ij sc h ar g es f musketry ; a ceremony which 
 has been observed by the men of both the trading 
 Companies for many years. Our party dined with Mr. 
 Connolly, and were regaled with a beaver, which we 
 found extremely delicate. In the evening his men 
 were entertained with a dance, in which the Canadi- 
 ans exhibited BOme grace and much agility ; and they 
 contrived to infuse BOme portion of their activity and 
 spirits into the steps of their female companions. The 
 half-breed women are passionately fond of this amuse- 
 ment, but a stranger would imagine the contrary on 
 witnessing their apparent want, of animation On 
 such occasions they affect a sobriety of demeanor 
 which I understand to lie the very opposite of their 
 genera] character.
 
 In the Artie Regions. 43 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Tins day we Bel out from Cumberland House 
 F r Carlton House; but previously to detailing the 
 Lis of the journey, it may be proper to describe the 
 ry equipments of a winter traveler in this re- 
 gion, which I cannot do better than by extracting the 
 following brief, but accurate, account of it from Mr. 
 Hood's journal : — 
 
 "A snow-shoe is made of two light bars of wood, 
 fastened together at their extremities, and projected 
 into Curves by transverse bars. The side liars have 
 been so shaped by a frame, and dried before a lire, 
 that the front part of the shoe turns up, like the prow 
 of a boat, and the part behind terminates in an acute 
 angle ; the spaces between the bars are filled up with 
 a fine netting of leathern thou rpt that | 
 
 hind the main bar, which is occupied by the feel ; the 
 
 netting is there close and strong, and the foot is at- 
 tached to the main bar by straps passing round the 
 
 heel, but only fixing the toes, so that the heel ii 
 alter each step, and the tail of the Bhoe i- dragged on
 
 44 Thirty Years 
 
 the snow. Between the main bar and another in front 
 of it, a small space is left, permitting the toes to 
 descend a little in the act of raising the heel to make 
 the step forward, which prevents their extremities from 
 charms:. The length of a snow-shoe is from four to six 
 feet, and the breadth one foot and a half, or one foot 
 and three-quarters, being adapted to the size of the 
 wearer. The motion of walking in them is perfectly 
 natural, for one shoe is level with the snow, when the 
 edge of the other is passing over it. It is not easy to 
 use them among bushes, without frequent overthrows, 
 nor to rise afterwards without help. Each shoe weighs 
 about two pounds when unclogged with snow. The 
 northern Indian snow-shoes differ a little from those 
 of the southern Indians, having a greater curvature on 
 the outside of each shoe ; one advantage of which is, 
 that when the foot rises the over-balanced side 
 descends and throws off the snow. All the superiority 
 of European art has been unable to improve the native 
 contrivance of this useful machine. 
 
 " Sledges are made of two or three flat boards, 
 curving upwards in front, and fastened together by 
 transverse pieces of wood above. They are so thin 
 that, if heavily laden, they bend with the inequalities 
 of the surface over which they pass. The ordinary 
 dog-sledges are eight or ten feet long, and very 
 narrow, but the lading is secured to a lacing round
 
 In tht Arctic Regions. 45 
 
 the edges. The oariole used by the trailers ie merely 
 i covering of Leather for the lowerpartof the body, 
 affixed to the common sledge, which is painted and 
 ornamented according to the taste of the proprietor. 
 
 I'., sides snow-shoes, each individual carries his blanket, 
 hatchet, Bteel, flint, and tinder, and generally fire- 
 arms." 
 
 The genera] dress of the winter traveler is a capot, 
 having a hood to put up under the fur cap in windy 
 weather, or in the woods, to keep the snow from his 
 neck ; leathern trowsers and Indian stockings, which 
 
 are closed at the ankles, round the upper part of his 
 
 i casine, or Indian shoes, to prevent the snow from 
 getting into them. Over these he wears a blanket, or 
 leathern coat, wdiich is secured by a belt round his 
 waist, to which his fire-hag, knife, and hatchet are 
 suspended, 
 
 .Mr. Jb-ek and 1 were accompanied by the seaman, 
 
 in Hepburn; we were provided with two carioles 
 and two Bledges J and their drivers and dogfl were 
 furnished in equal proportions by the two Companies. 
 Fifteen days' provision so completely filled the sled 
 that it was with difficulty we found room for a small 
 sextant, one suit of clothes, ami three- changes of 
 linen, together with our bedding. Notwithstanding 
 we thus restricted ..ursel ves, ami even loaded the 
 
 carioles with part of theluggag i, instead of embarking
 
 46 Thirty Years 
 
 in theni ourselves, we did not set out without 
 considerable grumbling from the voyagers of both 
 Companies, respecting the overlading of their dogs. 
 However, we left the matter to be settled by our 
 friends at the fort, who were more conversant with 
 winter traveling than ourselves. Indeed, the loads 
 appeared to us so great that we should have been 
 inclined to listen to the complaints of the drivers. 
 The weight usually placed upon a sledge, drawn by 
 three dogs, cannot, at the commencement of a journey, 
 be estimated at less than three hundred pounds, which, 
 however, suffers a daily diminution from the con- 
 sumption of provisions. The sledge itself weighs 
 about thirty pounds. When the snow is hard frozen, 
 or the track well trodden, the rate of traveling is 
 about two miles and a half an hour, including rests, 
 or about fifteen miles a day. If the snow is loose, 
 tlic speed is necessarily much less and the fatigue 
 i i er. 
 At eight in the morning of the 18th, we quitted the 
 fort, and took leave of our hospitable friend, G-overnor 
 Williams, whose kindness and attention I shall ever 
 remember with gratitude. Dr. Richardson, Mr. Eood, 
 and Mr. Connolly, accompanied us along the Sas- 
 katchawan, until the snow became too deep for their 
 walking without snow-shoes. We then parted from 
 oar associates, with sincere regrel al the prospecl of a
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 47 
 
 long separation. Being accompanied by Mr. M 
 kenzie, of the Hudson's Bay Company, who was going 
 to [sle .-i la Crosse, with four Bledges under his charge, 
 we formed quite a procession, keeping in an Indian 
 file, in the tract of the man who preceded the foremost 
 dogs ; but, as the snow was deep, we proceeded 
 slowly on the Burface of the river, which is about three 
 hundred and fifty yards wide, for the distance of six 
 miles, which we went to-day. Its alluvial hanks and 
 islands areclothed with willows. At the place of our 
 encampment we could scarcely find sufficient pine 
 branches to floor "the hut," as the Orkney men term 
 tic place where travelers rest. Its preparation, how- 
 ever, consists only in clearing away the snow to the 
 ground, and covering that space with pine branches, 
 over which the party spread their blankets and coats, 
 and Bleep in warmth and comfort, by keeping a good 
 fire at their feet, without any other canopy than the 
 heaven, even though the thermometer should be far 
 1 elow zero. 
 
 The arrival at the place of encampment gives imme- 
 diate occupation to every one of the party ; and i; 
 not until the sleeping-place has been arranged, and a 
 sufficiency of wood collected as fuel for the night, that 
 the lire is allowed to be kindled. The dogs alone 
 remain inactive during this limy BCOne, being '• 
 harnessed to their burdens until the men have leisure
 
 48 Thirty Years 
 
 to unstow the sledges, and hang upon the trees every 
 species of provision out of the reach of these rapacious 
 animals. We had ample experience, before morning, 
 of the necessity of this precaution, as they contrived 
 to steal a considerable part of our stores, almost from 
 underneath Hepburn's head, notwithstanding their 
 having been well-fed at supper. 
 
 This evening we found the mercury of our ther- 
 mometer had sunk into the bulk, and was frozen. It 
 arose again into the tube on being held to the fire, 
 but quickly re-descended into the bulb on being 
 removed into the air ; we could not, therefore, ascer- 
 tain by it the temperature of the atmosphere, either 
 then or during our journey. The weather was per- 
 fectly clear. 
 
 Jan. 19. — We arose this morning after the enjoy- 
 ment of a sound and comfortable repose, and recom- 
 menced our journey at sun-rise, but made slow progress 
 through the deep snow. The task of beating the 
 track for the dogs was so very fatiguing, that each of 
 the men took the lead in turn, for an hour and a half. 
 The scenery of the banks of the river improved as we 
 advanced to-day ; some firs and poplars were inter- 
 mixed with the willows. We passed through two 
 creeks, formed by islands, and encamped ona pleasant 
 spot on the north shore, having only made six miles 
 and three-quarters actual distance,
 
 In the Arctic lie<jion8. 49 
 
 The uexl day we pursued our course along the 
 river ; the dogs had the greatest difficulty In dragging 
 their heavy hardens through the snow. We halted 
 to refresh them at the foot of Sturgeon River, and 
 obtained the latitude 53° 51' 41" X. This is a small 
 Btream, which issues from a neighboring lake. We 
 encamped near to Musquito Point, having walked 
 about nine miles. The termination of the day's 
 journey was a great relief to me, who had been 
 Buffering during the greater part of it, in consequence 
 of my feet having been galled by the snow-shoes ; 
 this, however, is an evil which few escape on their 
 initiation to winter traveling. It excites no pity 
 from the more experienced companions of the journey, 
 who travel on as fast as they can, regardless of the 
 pain of the sufferer. 
 
 Mr. Isbester, and an Orkney man, joined us from 
 Cumberland House, and brought some pemmican 
 which we had left behind ; a supply which was sea- 
 Bonable after our recent loss. The general occupation 
 of Mr. [sbester during tie- winter, is to follow or find 
 out the Indians, and collect their furs, and his present 
 journey will appear adventurous to persons accustomed 
 to the certainty of traveling on a well-known road. 
 He is going in search of a band of Indians, of whom 
 no information had been received since last October, 
 
 his only guide foi finding them was their pror 
 
 ■A
 
 50 Thirty Years 
 
 to hunt in a certain quarter ; but he looked at the 
 jaunt with indifference, and calculated on meeting 
 them in six or seven days, for which time only he had 
 provision. Few persons in this country suffer more 
 from want of food than those occasionally do who are 
 employed on this service. They are furnished with a 
 sufficiency of provision to serve until they reach the 
 part where the Indians are expected to be ; but it 
 frequently occurs that, on their arrival at the spot, 
 they have gone elsewhere, and that a recent fall of 
 snow has hidden their track, in which case the voyagers 
 have to wander about in search of them ; and it often 
 happens, when they succeed in rinding the Indians, 
 that they are unprovided with meat. Mr. Isbester 
 had been placed in this distressing situation only a 
 few weeks ago, and passed four days without either 
 himself or his dogs tasting food. At length, when he 
 determined on killing one of the dogs to satisfy his 
 hunger, he happily met with a beaten track, which 
 led him to some Indian lodges, where lie obtained a 
 supply of food. 
 
 ■ morning of the 21st was cold, but pleasant for 
 traveling. We Left Mr. [sbester and his companion, 
 an-: ! the peninsula of Musquito Point, to avoid 
 
 a detour of several miles which the river makes. 
 
 Though we out up at, an early hour, We gained eleven 
 miles this (lay. Our encampment was at the lower
 
 /// the Arctic Regions. 51 
 
 extremity of Tobin's Falls. The snow being 1 
 on the rough Lee which enclosed this rapid, we pro- 
 ceeded, on the 22d, at a quicker pace than usual, 
 though at the expense of great Buffering to Mr. Back, 
 myself, and Hepburn, all our feet being much galled. 
 After passing Tobin's Falls, the river expands to the 
 breadth of five hundred yards, and its banks arc well 
 ided with pines, poplars, birch, and willows. Many 
 ka of moose-deer and wolves wen' obsi rved near 
 the encampment. 
 
 On the 23d the sky was generally overcast, and there 
 were Beveral snow showers. We Baw two wolves and 
 some foxes cross the river in the course of the day, 
 and passed many tracks of the moose and red deer. 
 Soon after we had encamped the Bnow fell heavily, 
 which was an advantage to us after we had retired to 
 rest, by its affording an additional covering to our 
 blankets. The next morning, whilst at breakfast, two 
 men arrived from Carlton on their way to Cumberland. 
 Eaving the benefit of their track, we were, to our 
 it joy, able to get on at a quick pace without snow- 
 shoes. My «>nly regret was, that the party proceeded 
 too fast to allow Mr. Black's halting occasionally, to 
 the bearings of the points, and delineate the 
 course of the river, without being Left behind. As 
 
 * This was afterwardt 't"iio by l»r. Richardson do Carlton 
 
 in iho spring
 
 52 Thirty Years 
 
 the provisions were getting short, I could not, there- 
 fore, with propriety, check the progress by interrupt- 
 ing the party ; and, indeed, it appeared to me less 
 necessary, as L understood the river had been carefully 
 surveyed. In the afternoon, we had to resume the in- 
 cumbrance of the snow-shoes, and to pass over a rug- 
 ged part where the ice had been piled over a collection 
 of stones. The tracks of animals were very abundant 
 on the river, particularly near the remains of an old 
 establishment, called the Lower Nippeween. 
 
 So much snow had fallen on the night of the 24th, 
 that the track we intended to follow was completely 
 covered, and our march to-day was very fatiguing. 
 We passed the remains of two red-deer, lying at the 
 basis of perpendicular cliffs, from the summits of which 
 they had, probably, been forced by the wolves. These 
 voracious animals, who are inferior in speed to the 
 moose and red-deer, are said frequently to have re- 
 course to this expedient in places where extensive 
 plains are bounded by precipitous cliffs. Whilst the 
 deer are quietly grazing, the wolves assemble in great 
 numbers, and, forming a crescent, creep slowly towards 
 the herd so as not to alarm them much at first, but 
 when they perceive that they have fairly hemmed in 
 the unsuspecting creatures, and cut off their retreat 
 
 across the plain, they move more quickly, and with 
 
 hideous yells terrify their prey and urge them to flight
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 53 
 
 by the only open way, which is that towards the pre- 
 cipice ; appearing to know, that when the herd isonce 
 
 jit full speed, it is easily driven over the cliff, the n 
 most urging on those that are before. The wolves 
 then descend at their leisure, and least on the man-led 
 carcasses. < >ne of these ferocious animals passed close 
 to the person who was heating the track, hut did not 
 offer any violence. \Vc encamped at sunset, after 
 walking thirteen miles. 
 
 < )m the 26th, we were rejoiced at passing the halt- 
 way point, between Cumberland and Carlton. The 
 Bcenery of the riser was less agreeable beyond' this 
 point, as there was a scarcity of wood. One of our 
 men was despatched after a red-deer that appeared on 
 the hank, lie contrived to approach near enough to 
 fire twice, though without success, before the animal 
 moved away. Alter a fatiguing march of seventeen 
 miles, we put up at the upper Nipp6ween, a deserted 
 establishment ; and performed the comfortable opera- 
 tions of Bhaving and washing for the first time since 
 our departure from Cumberland, the weather having 
 been hitherto too severe. We passed an uncomfort- 
 able and sleepless night, and agreed nexl morning to 
 
 encamp in future in the open air, as preferable to 
 
 imp' rf cl shelter of a desert id bouse without 
 
 windows. 
 
 The morning was extremely cold, hut fortunately
 
 54 Thirty Years 
 
 the wind was light, which prevented our feeling it se- 
 verely ; experience indeed had taught us that the sen- 
 sation of cold depends less upon the state of temper- 
 ature, than the force of wind. An attempt was made 
 to obtain the latitude, which failed in consequence of 
 the screw, which adjusts the telescope of the sextant, 
 being immovably fixed, from the moisture upon it 
 having frozen. The instrument could not be replaced 
 in its case before the ice was thawed by the fire in the 
 evening. 
 
 In the course of the day we passed the confluence 
 of the south branch of the Saskatchawan, which rises 
 from the rocky mountains near the sources of the 
 northern branch of the Missouri. At Coles Falls, 
 which commences a short distance from the branch, we 
 found the surface of the ice very uneven, and many 
 spots of open water. 
 
 We passed the ruins of an establishment, which the 
 traders had been compelled to abandon, in consequence 
 di' the intractable conduct and pilfering habits of the 
 A-sinoboine Indians; and we learnt that all the resi- 
 dents at a post on the south branch, had been cut off 
 by the same tribe some years ago. We traveled 
 twelve miles to-day. The wolves serenaded us through 
 the nighl with :i chorus of their agreeable howling, 
 but none of them ventured near the encampment, 
 Mr. Back's repose was disturbed by a more serious
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 55 
 
 evil ; his buffalo robe caught fire, and the slu.es on 
 liis feet, being contracted by the heat, gave him such 
 pain, that he jumped up in the cold, and ran into the 
 snow as the only means of obtaining relief. 
 
 On the 28th we had a Btrong and piercing wind 
 from N. \Y. in our faces, and much snow-drift ; we 
 were compelled to walk as quick as we could, and to 
 keep constantly rubbing the exposed parts of the 
 skin, to prevent their being frozen, but some of the 
 party Buffered in spite of every precaution. We d 
 cried three red-deer on the banks of the river, and 
 were about to send the best marksmen after tk 
 
 when they espied the party and ran away. A supply 
 
 of meat would have been very* seasonable, as the men's 
 provision became scanty, and the clogs were without 
 food, except a little burnt leather. Owing to the 
 scarcity of wood, we had to walk until a late hour. 
 before a good spot for an encampment could be found, 
 and had then come only eleven miles. The night was 
 miserably cold ; our tea froze in the tin pots 1 
 we could drink it, and even a mixture of spirits I 
 water became quite thick by congelation : yet, 
 we lay down to rest, we felt no inconvei 
 heeded not the wolves, though they were howlii 
 within view. 
 
 The 29th was al80 very cold, until the sun bui 
 
 forth, when the traveling became pleasant. T
 
 56 Thirty Years 
 
 « 
 
 banks of the river are very scantily supplied with 
 wood through the part we passed to-day. A long 
 track on the south shore, called Holms Plains, is des- 
 titute of anything like a tree, and the opposite bank 
 has only stunted willows ; but after walking sixteen 
 miles, we came* to a spot better wooded, and encamp- 
 ed opposite to a remarkable place, called by the voya- 
 gers " The Neck of Land." ■ 
 
 On the thirtieth we directed our course round The 
 Neck of Land, which is well clothed with pines and 
 firs ; though the opposite or western bank is nearly 
 destitute of wood. This contrast between the two 
 banks continued until we reached the commencement 
 of what our companions called the barren grounds, 
 when both the banks were alike bare. Vast plains 
 extend behind the southern bank, which afford excel- 
 lent pasturage for the buffalo, or other grazing animals. 
 In the evening we saw a herd of the former, but could 
 not <iet near to them. After walking fifteen miles we 
 encamped. The men's provision having been entirely 
 expended last night, we shared our small stock with 
 them. The poor dogs had been toiling some days on 
 the most scanty fare ; their rapacity, in consequence, 
 was unbounded ; they forced open a deal box, contain- 
 ing tea, mall piece <rf meat which had 
 been incautiously placed in it. 
 
 As soon as daylight permitted, the party commenc-
 
 In the An I ns. 
 
 ed their march, in t] tation of reaching Carlton 
 
 House to breakfast, but we did noi arrive until d 
 although the track was good. We were received by 
 Mr. Prudens, the gentleman in charge of the post, 
 with that friendly attention which Governor Williams' 
 circular was calculated to insure .'it every Btation ; and 
 were soon afterwards regaled with a substantial dish 
 of buffalo steaks, which would have been thought 
 cellent under any circumstances, hut were particular- 
 ly relished by as, though eaten without either bin 
 or vegetables, after our traveling tare of dried m 
 and pemmican. After this repast, we had the com- 
 fort of changing our traveling dresses which had been 
 worn for fourteen days. This was a gratification which 
 can only he t ruly est iniated hy those who may h. 
 been placed under similar circumstances. 
 
 Feb. 8. — Having recovered from the Bwellings and 
 pains which our late march from Cumberland had oc- 
 casioned, we prepared for the commencement of our 
 journey I . ad requisitions were made 
 
 on both the establishments for the means of convey- 
 ance, and the necessary Bupply of provisions for the 
 party, which was readily furnished. On the 9th, the 
 carioles and were loaded, at off al 
 
 I ; hut Mr. Back and I remained till the after- 
 noon, as Mr. Prudens had offered that his borses should 
 
 convey us to the encampment. At 3 P.M. we parted 
 
 3*
 
 58 Thirty Years 
 
 from our kind host, and in passing through the gate 
 were honored with a salute of musketry. After riding 
 six miles, we joined the men at their encampment, 
 which was made under the shelter of a few poplars. 
 The dogs had been so much fatigued in wading 
 through the very deep snow with their heavy burdens, 
 having to drag upwards of ninety pounds weight each, 
 that they could get no farther. Soon after our arrival 
 the snow began to fall heavily, and it continued 
 through the greater part of the night. 
 
 Our next day's march was therefore particularly te- 
 dious, the snow being deep, and the route lying across 
 an unvarying level, destitute of wood, except one 
 small cluster of willows. In the afternoon we reached 
 the end of the plain, and came to an elevation, on 
 which poplars, willows, and some pines grew, where 
 we encamped, having traveled ten miles. We crossed 
 three small lakes, two of fresh water, and one of salt, 
 near the latter of which we encamped, and were, in 
 consequence, obliged to use for our tea, water made 
 from snow, which has always a disagreeable taste. 
 
 We had scarcely ascended the hill on the following 
 morning, when a large herd of red deer was perceived 
 grazing at a little distance ; and, though we were 
 amply supplied with provision, our Canadian compan- 
 ions could nut, resist the temptation of endeavoring in 
 add to our slock. A half-breed hunter was therefore
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 
 
 senl after thi m. Be succeeded In wounding one, but 
 nol bo aa to prevenl its running off with the herd, in 
 a direction wide of our course. A couple of ra 
 and a brace of wood partridges were shot in the af 
 noon. There was an agreeable variety of hill and dale in 
 the scenery we passed through to-day ; and sufficient 
 wood for ornament, but not enough to crowd the pic- 
 ture. The valleys were intersected by several small 
 lakes and pools, whose snowy covering was happily 
 contrasted with the dark green of the pine trees which 
 Burrounded them. After ascending a moderately high 
 hill by a winding path through a close wood, we 
 opened Buddenly upon Lake Iroquois, and had a fall 
 view of its picturesque Bhores. We crossed it and i 
 camped. 
 
 Though the sky was cloudless, yet the weather was 
 warm. We had the gratification of finding a beaten 
 track soon after we started on the morning of the L2th, 
 and were thus enabled to walk briskly. "We Cro- 
 at hast twenty hills, and found a small lake or p iol 
 at the foot of each. The destructive ravages <>f lire 
 
 were visible during the greater part of the day. The 
 only wood we saw for miles together consisted of pine 
 
 trees, stript of their branches and hark by this elemenl : 
 
 in other parts poplars al me were growing, which 
 have remarked invariably to succeed the pine after a 
 conflagration. We walked twenty miles to-day, hut 
 
 the direct distance was only sixteen miles.
 
 60 Thirty Years 
 
 The remains of an Indian hut were found in a deep 
 glen, and close to it was placed a pile of wood, which 
 cur companions supposed to cover a deposit of provi- 
 sion. Our Canadian voyagers, induced by an insatia- 
 ble desire of procuring food, proceeded to remove the 
 upper pieces, and examine its contents ; when to their 
 surprise, they found the body of a female, clothed in 
 leather, which appeared to have been recently placed 
 there. Her former garments, the materials for mak- 
 ing a fire, a fishing line, a hatchet, and a bark dish, 
 were laid beside the corpse. The wood was carefully 
 replaced. A small owl, perched on a tree near the 
 spot, called forth many singular remarks from our 
 companions, as to its being a good or bad omen. 
 
 We walked the whole of the 13 th over flat meadow 
 land, which is much resorted to by the buffalo at all 
 seasons. We saw some herds, but our hunters were 
 too unskilful to get within shot. In the afternoon we 
 reached Stinking Lake, which is nearly of an oval 
 form. Its shores are very low and swampy, to which 
 circumstances, and not to the bad quality of the 
 waters, it owes its Indian name. Our observations 
 place its western part in latitude 53° 25' 24" N., 
 longitude 107° 18' 58" W., variation 20° 32' 10" E. 
 
 After a march of fifteen miles and a half, we en- 
 
 camped among a few pines, at the only spot at which 
 
 iw Buffifiienl wood for making our fire during the
 
 /// i lii. Arctic Regi 61 
 
 • lay. The next morning, about an bour after we ; 
 commenced our march) we came upon a beaten track, 
 and perceived recent marks of snow-shoes. In a Bh 
 time an [roquoia joined us, who was residing with a 
 party of Oree Indians, to secure the meat and furs 
 they should collect, for the North- West Company. 
 Be accompanied as as far as the stage on which his 
 meat was placed, and then gave us a very pressing in- 
 vitation to halt for the day and partake of his fare J 
 which, as the hour was too early, we declined, much 
 to the annoyance of our Canadian companions, who 
 had been cherishing the prospect of indulging their 
 amazing appetites at this well-furnished store, ever 
 Bince the man had been with us. He gave them, 
 however, a small supply previous to our parting. The 
 route now crossed some ranges of hills, on which fir, 
 birch, and poplar, grew so thickly, that we had much 
 difficulty in getting the Bledges through the nan 
 pathway between them. In the evening we descend- 
 ed from the elevated ground, crossed three swampy 
 meadows, and encamped at. their northern extremity, 
 within a cluster of large pine-tr branche 
 
 which were elegantly decorated with abundance i 
 nidi yellow lichen. Our march was ten miles. 
 was very mild, almost too warm for 
 we were takii 
 We had a strong gale from the X. \V. during the
 
 62 Thirty Years 
 
 night, which subsided as the morning opened. One 
 of the sledges had been so much broken yesterday 
 amongst the trees, that we had to divide its cargo 
 among the others. We started after this had been 
 arranged, and finding almost immediately a firm track, 
 we soon arrived at some Indian lodges to which it led. 
 The inhabitants were Crees, belonging to the posts on 
 the Saskatchawan, from whence they had come to hunt 
 beaver. We made but a short stay, and proceeded 
 through a Swamp to Pelican Lake. Our view to the 
 right was bounded by a range of lofty hills, which ex- 
 tended for several miles in a north and south di- 
 rection, which, it may be remarked, has been that of 
 all the hilly land we have passed since quitting the 
 plain. 
 
 Pelican Lake is of an irregular form, about six miles 
 from east to west, and eight from north to south ; it 
 decreases to the breadth of a mile towards the north- 
 ern extremity, and is there terminated by a creek. 
 We went up this creek for a short distance, and then 
 struck into the woods, and encamped among a cluster 
 of the firs, which the Canadians term cypres (pimu 
 inops) ; having come fourteen miles and a half. 
 
 Feb. L6. — Sli.irlly after commencing the journey to- 
 day, we me1 an [ndian and his family who had come 
 from the houses at G-reen Lake; they informed us 
 the track was well beaten the whole way. We, there-
 
 In iff Arctic //< r<>ns. G3 
 
 fore, i 'U t forth our utmost speed in the hope of reach- 
 ing them by aight ; but were disappointed, and had 
 to hall at dark, about twelve miles from them, in a 
 fisherman's hut, which was unoccupied. Frequent 
 
 showers of snow fell during the day. and the atmos- 
 phere was thick and gloomy. 
 
 We started at an early hour the following morning, 
 and reached the Hudson's Bay Company's post to 
 breakfast, and were received very kindly by Mr. Mac- 
 I' rlane, the gentleman in charge. The other estab- 
 lishment, situated .in the opposite side of the river, 
 was under the direction of Mr. Dougal Cameron, one 
 of the partners of the North-Wesi Company, on whom 
 
 Mr. Back and 1 called SOOn after our arrival, and were 
 
 honored with a salute of musketry. 
 
 « 
 
 These establishments are small, but said to be well 
 situated for the procuring of furs ; as the numerous 
 creeks in their vicinity are much resorted to by the 
 beaver, otter, and musquash. The residents usually 
 obtain a Buperabundanl supply of provision. This 
 season, however, they have barely had sufficient for 
 
 their own support, owing to the epidemic which has 
 
 incapacitated the Indians for hunting. The t; ; 
 Lake lies nearly north and Bouth, is eighteen miles in 
 length, and does qoI exceed one mile and a half of 
 breadth in any part. The water is deep, and it is in 
 consequence one of the lasl lakes in the country that
 
 64 Thirty Years 
 
 is frozen. Excellent tittameg and trout are caught in 
 it from March to December, but after that time most 
 of the fish remove to some larger lake. 
 
 Wc remained two days, awaiting the return of some 
 men who had been sent to the Indian lodges for meat, 
 and who were to go on with us. Mr. Back and I did 
 not need this rest, having completely surmounted the 
 pain which the walking in snow-shoes had occasioned. 
 We dined twice with Mr. Cameron, and received from 
 him many useful suggestions respecting our future 
 operations. This gentleman having informed us that 
 provisions would, probably, be very scarce next spring 
 in the Athabasca department, in consequence of the 
 sickness of the Indians during the hunting season, un- 
 dertook at my request to cause a supply of pemmi- 
 can to be conveyed from the Saskatchewan to Isle a 
 la Crosse for our use during the winter, and I wrote 
 to apprize I>r. Richardson and Mr. Hood, that they 
 would find it at the latter post when they passed ; 
 and also to desire them to bring as much as the canoes 
 would stow from Cumberland. 
 
 The atmosphere was clear and cold during our stay ; 
 rvations were obtained at the Hudson Bay fort, 
 [° L6' I"" X.. long. 107° 29' 52" W., var. 22° 
 6' 36" E. 
 
 Feb. 20. — Having been equipped with carioles, 
 ■ledges, and provisions, from the two posts, we this
 
 1 1, tin- Arctic Regi 6fl 
 
 day recommenced our journey, and were much amused 
 by the novelty of the salute given at our departure, 
 the guns being principally fired by the half-breed wo- 
 men in th e of the men. Our course was di- 
 rected to the end of the lake, and for a short distance 
 alone a .small river ; wc then crossed the woods to the 
 Beaver River, which we found to he narrow and vrery 
 serpentine, having moderately high hanks. AVe en- 
 camped about one mile and a half further up among 
 poplars. 'I'll 1, next day we proceeded along tin- river ; 
 it was winding, and about two hundred yards broad. 
 We passed the mouths of two rivers whose waters it 
 receives ; the latter one, we were informed, is a chan- 
 nel by which the Indians go to the Lesser Slave Lake. 
 The hanks of the river became higher as weadvai 
 and were furnished with pines, poplars, and willows. 
 
 Though the weather was very cold, we traveled more 
 comfortably than at any preceding time since our de- 
 parture from Cumberland, as we were enabled, by 
 having light carioles, to ride nearly the whole day, 
 and to he warmly covered up with a buffalo rohe. 
 Mr. Bllieod, of th" North-West Company, joined as. 
 lie had kindly broughl Borne things fromGi 
 which our Bledges could not cany. Pursuing our 
 route along the river, we reached at an early hour the 
 upper extremity of the "Grand Rapid," where the ice 
 
 was so rOUgh that the carioles and Bledges had to be
 
 66 Thirty Years 
 
 conveyed across a point of land. Soon after noon we 
 left the river, inclining N. E., and directed our course 
 N. W.j until we reached Long Lake, and encamped at 
 its northern extremity, having come twenty- three 
 miles. This lake is about fourteen miles long, and 
 from three-quarters to one mile and a half broad ; its 
 shores and islands low, but well wooded. There were 
 frequent snow-showers during the day. 
 
 Feb. 23. — The night was very stormy, but the wind 
 became more moderate in the morning. We passed 
 to-day through several nameless lakes and swamps be- 
 fore we came to Train Lake, which, received its name 
 from being the place where the traders procured the 
 birch to make the sledges, or traineaux ; but this 
 wood has been all used, and there only remain pines 
 and a few poplars. We met some sledges laden with 
 fish, kindly sent to meet us by Mr. Clark, of the Hud- 
 son's Bay Company, directly he heard of our approach. 
 Towards the evening the weather became much more 
 unpleasant; we were exposed to a piercingly cold 
 wind, and much snow-drift, in traversing Isle & la 
 Crosse Lake ; we were, therefore, highly pleased at 
 reaching the Hudson's Bay House by six P. M. We 
 were received in the most friendly manner by Mr. 
 Clark, and honored by volleys of musketry on ourar- 
 rival. Similar marks of attention were shewn to us 
 on the following day by Mr. Bethune, the partner in
 
 /// the Arctic Regions. G7 
 
 charge of the North-West Company's fort. I found 
 here the letters which 1 had addressed to theparti 
 of the North-West Company, in the Athabasca, from 
 Cumberland, in November last. This circumstance 
 convinced us of the necessity of our present journey. 
 
 These establishments are situated on the southern 
 side of the lake, and close to each other. They are 
 torts of considerable Importance, being placed at a 
 point of communication with the English I liver, the 
 Athabasca, and Columbia Districts. The country 
 around them is low, and intersected with water, and 
 was formerly much frequented by beavers and otti 
 which, however, have been so much hunted by the 
 Indians, thai their number is greatly decreased. The 
 Indians frequenting these forts are the Crees and some 
 Chipewyans ; they scarcely ever come except in the 
 spring and autumn ; in the former season to bring 
 their winter's collection of furs, and in the latter to get 
 the stores they require. 
 
 Three Chipewyan lads came in during our stay, to 
 report what furs the band to which they belonged had 
 collected, and to desire they might be Benl for; the 
 Indians having declined bringing either furs or meal 
 themselves, since the opposition betwei □ the Companies 
 commenced. Mr. Back drew the portrait of one of the 
 
 hoys. 
 
 l.-le ,•; la ( !ros8e Lake receives its came from an island
 
 68 Thirty Years 
 
 situated near the forts, on which, the Indians formerly- 
 assembled annually to amuse themselves at the game 
 of the Cross. It is justly celebrated for abundance of 
 the finest tittameg, which weigh from five to fifteen 
 pounds. The residents live principally upon this most 
 delicious fish, which fortunately can be eaten a long 
 time without producing any disrelish. They are plen- 
 tifully caught with nets throughout the year, except 
 for two or three months. 
 
 March 4. — We witnessed the Aurora Borealis very 
 brilliant, for the second time since our departure from 
 Cumberland. A winter encampment is not a favor- 
 able situation for viewing this phenomenon, as the 
 trees in general hide the sky. Arrangements had been 
 made for recommencing our journey to-day, but the 
 wind was stormy, and the snow had drifted too much 
 for traveling with comfort; we therefore stayed and 
 dined with Mr. Bethune, who promised to render every 
 assistance in getting pemmican conveyed to us from 
 the Saskatchawan, to be in readiness for our canoes 
 when they might arrive in the spring ; Mr. Clark has 
 also engaged to procure six bags for us, and to furnish 
 our canoes with any oilier supplies which may be 
 wanted, and can be spared from his post, and to con- 
 tribute his aid in forwarding the pemmican to the 
 Athabasca, if our canoes cannot carry it all. 
 
 I feel greatly indebted to Mr. Clark, for much val-
 
 In the, Artie Rt gions. 69 
 
 aable information respecting the country and the In- 
 diana residing to the north of the Slave Lake, and for 
 furnishing me with a list of stores he supposed we 
 should require. This gentleman had n ome 
 
 years on the Mackensie's River, and had been once so 
 far towards its mouth as to meet the Esquimaux in 
 it numbers. But they assumed such a hostile at- 
 titude, thai he deemed it unadvisable to attemptopen- 
 ing any communication with them, and retreated as 
 Bpeedily as he could. 
 
 The observations we obtained here shewed that the 
 chronometers had varied their rates a little, in conse- 
 quence of the jolting of thecarioles in which we rode ; 
 but their errors and rates were ascertained previous 
 our departure. We observed the position of this fort 
 to be latitude 55° 25' 35" N., longitude 107° 51' 00" 
 W., by Lunars reduced Lack from Fort Chipewyan, 
 variation 22° 15' 4S" W., dip 84° 13' '3j" 
 
 March 5. — We recommenced our journey this morn- 
 ing, having been supplied with the means of convey- 
 ance by both the companies in equal proportions. Mr. 
 (Mark accompanied us with the intention of going as 
 far as the boundary of his district. Tins gentleman 
 
 was an experienced winter traveler, and we del 
 
 much benefit from his - ins ; he can 
 
 men to arrange the encampment with more attention 
 
 to comfort ami shelter than our former companions had
 
 70 Thirty Years 
 
 done. After marching eighteen miles we put up on 
 Gravel Point, in the Deep River. 
 
 At nine the next morning, we came to the com- 
 mencement of Clear Lake. We crossed its southern 
 extremes, and then went over a point of land to Buf- 
 falo Lake, and encamped after traveling twenty-six 
 miles. After supper we were entertained until mid- 
 night with paddling songs, by our Canadians, who re- 
 quired very little stimulus beside their natural vivac- 
 ity, to afford us this diversion. The next morning we 
 arrived at the establishments which are situated on the 
 western side of the lake, near to a small stream, called 
 the Beaver River. They were small log buildings, 
 hastily erected last October, for the convenience of the 
 Indians who hunt in the vicinity. Mr. MacMurray, 
 a partner in the N. W. Company, having sent to Isle 
 a la Crosse an invitation to Mr. Back and me, our 
 cariolea were driven to his post, and we experienced 
 the kindest reception. These posts are frequented by 
 only a few Indians, Crees and Chipewyans. The 
 country round is not sufficiently stocked with animals 
 to afford support to many families, and the traders al- 
 most entirely subsist on fish caught in the anfnnin, 
 prior to the lake being frozen. The water being shal- 
 low, the fish remove to a deeper part, as soon as the 
 lake is covered with ice. The Aurora Borealis was 
 
 brilliantly displayed OB both the DlghtS we remained
 
 /// th An tu /A giona, 71 
 
 here, but particularly od the7th, when ite 
 were mosl diversified, aud the motion extremely rapid, 
 [ta coruscations occasionally concealed from Bight .-■ 
 of the first magnitude in passing over them, at other 
 times these were faintly discerned through them -. 
 I perceived a Btream of light to illumine the 
 under surface of some clouds as it passed alone 
 There v ■ noise. 
 
 Mr. MacMurray gave a dance to his \ -and 
 
 the half breed women : this is a treat which they ex- 
 on the arrival of any stranger at the post. 
 
 We were presented by this gentleman, with the 
 valuable skin of a black fox, which he had entrapped 
 BOme days before our arrival ; it was forwarded to 
 I ! ngland with other specimens. 
 
 Our observations place the North-West Company's 
 house in latitude 55° 53' 00" N., longitude 108° 51' 
 L0 W. : variation 22° 33' -2-2" E. 
 
 The shores of Buffalo Lake are of moderate height, 
 and well wooded, hut immediately beyond the bank 
 the country is very swampy, and intersected with 
 water in every direction. At Borne distance from the 
 
 western side there is a COnspicUOUS hill, which we hail- 
 ed with much pleasure, as being th" first interruption 
 to the tedious uniform BCene we had for some time 
 passed through. 
 On the LOth we recommenced our journey after
 
 * 72 Thirty Years 
 
 breakfast and traveled quickly, as we had the advan- 
 tage of a well beaten track. At the end of eighteen 
 miles we entered upon the river " Loche," which has 
 a serpentine course, and is confined between alluvial 
 banks that support stunted willows and a few pines ; 
 
 • we encamped about three miles further on ; and in 
 the course of the next day's march perceived several 
 holes in the ice, and many unsafe places for the 
 sledges. Our companions said the ice of this river is 
 always in the same insecure state, even during the 
 most severe winter, which they attribute to warm 
 springs. Quitting the river we crossed a portage and 
 came upon the Methye Lake, and soon afterwards ar- 
 rived at the trading posts situated on the western sido 
 of it. These were perfect huts, which had been hastily 
 built after the commencement of the last winter. 
 We lure saw two hunters who were Chipewyan half- 
 breeds, and made many inquiries of them respecting 
 the countries we expected to visit, but we found them 
 quite ignorant of every part beyond the Athabasca 
 Lake. They spoke of Mr. Hearne and of his compan- 
 ion Matonnabee, but did not add to our stock of in- 
 formation respecting thai journey. It had happened 
 before their bird), but they remembered the expedi- 
 tion of Sir Alexander Mackenzie towards the sea. 
 
 This is a picturesque lake, about ten miles long and 
 six broad, and receives its name from a Bpecies of fish
 
 In the Arctic "Regions. 73 
 
 caught in it. This fish, the rnethye, is not much i - 
 teemed ; the residents never eai any part but the liver 
 except through necessity, the dogs dislike even that. 
 The tittameg and trout are also caught in the fall of 
 the year. 
 
 On the L3th we renewed our journey, and parted 
 from Mr. Clark, to whom we were much obliged for 
 his hospitality and kindness. We soon reached the 
 Biethye Portage, and had a very pleasant ride across 
 it in our carioles. The track was good, and led 
 through groups of pines, so happily placed that it 
 would not have required a great streteh of imagina- 
 tion to fancy ourselves driving through a well arran- 
 
 I park. We had now to cross a small lake, and 
 then gradually ascended hills beyond it, until we ar- 
 rived at the summit of a lofty chain of mountains, 
 commanding the most picturesque and romantic pros- 
 pecl we had yet seen in this country. Two ranges of 
 high hills run parallel to each other for several miles, 
 until the faint blue haze hides their particular charac- 
 ters, when they slightly change tluir course, and are 
 lost to tie' view. The B] tween them is occu- 
 
 pied by nearly a level plain, through which a river 
 
 pursues a meandering course, and receives supplies 
 
 from the creeks and rills L88uing from the mountains 
 on each Bide. The prOSpecl was delightful even amid 
 the snow, and though marked with all the cheer]
 
 74 Thirty Years 
 
 characters of winter ; how much more charming must 
 it be when the trees are in leaf, and the ground is ar- 
 rayed in summer verdure ! Some faint idea of the 
 difference was conveyed to my mind by witnessing the 
 effect of the departing rays of a brilliant sun. The 
 distant prospect, however, is surpassed in grandeur by 
 the wild scenery which appeared immediately below 
 our feet. There the eye penetrates into vast ravines 
 from two to three hundred feet in depth, that are 
 clothed with trees, and lie on either side of the nar- 
 row pathway descending to the river over eight suc- 
 cessive ridges of hills. At one spot, termed the Cocks- 
 comb, the passenger stands insulated as it were on a 
 small slip, where a false step might precipitate him 
 into the glen. From this place Mr. Back took an in- 
 teresting and accurate sketch of the view, to enable 
 him to do which, we encamped early, having come 
 twenty-one miles. 
 
 The Methye Portage is about twelve miles in extent, 
 and over this space the canoes and all their cargoes 
 arc carried, both in going to and from the Athabasca 
 department. It is part of the range of mountains 
 which separates the waters flowing smith from those 
 flowing north. According to Sir Alexander Macken- 
 zie. " this ranee of hills continues in a 8. W. direction 
 until its local height is hist, between the Saskatcha- 
 
 \\;in and Elk I livers, close on the banks of the former,
 
 In the Arctic Iier/ions. 75 
 
 in latitude .3:5° 36' N., longitude 113° 45' \Y. ; when 
 it appears to take its course due north. 
 
 At daylight on the 14th. we began to descend the 
 range of hills leading towards the river, and no small 
 care was required to prevent the sledges from being 
 broken in going down these almost perpendicular 
 heights, or being precipitated into the glens on each 
 side. As a precautionary measure the dogs were taken 
 off, and the Bledges guided by the men, notwithstand- 
 ing which they descended with amazing rapidity, and 
 the men were thrown into the most ridiculous attitudes 
 in endeavoring to Btop them. When we had arrived 
 at the bottom 1 could not hut feel astonished at 
 laborious task which the voyagers have twice in the 
 year to encounter at this place, in conveying their 
 stores backwards and forwards. We went across the 
 Clear Water River, which runs at, the hases of these 
 hills, and followed an Indian track along its northern 
 bank, by which we avoided the White .Mud and Good 
 Portages. We afterwards followed the river as far as 
 the Pine Portage, when we passed through a very ro- 
 mantic defile of rocks, which presenl d the appearance 
 of Gothic ruins, and their rude characters were happi- 
 ly contrasted with the softness of the Bnow, and the 
 darker foliage of the pines which crowned their sum- 
 mits. We next crossed the Cascade Portage, which 
 is the last oil the way to the Athabasca Lake, and we
 
 76 Thirty Years 
 
 soon afterwards came to some Indian tents, containing 
 five families, belonging to the Chipewyan tribe. We 
 smoked the calumet in the Chief's tent, whose name was 
 the Thumb, and distributed some tobacco and a weak 
 mixture of spirits and water among the men. The}' 
 received this civility with much less grace than the 
 Crees, and seemed to consider it a matter of course. 
 There was an utter neglect of cleanliness, and a total 
 want of comfort in their tents ; and the poor creatures 
 were miserably clothed. Mr. Frazer, who accompanied 
 us from the Methye Lake, accounted for their being 
 in this forlorn condition by explaining, that this band 
 of Indians had recently destroyed every thing they 
 possessed, as a token of their great grief for the loss of 
 their relatives in the prevailing sickness. It appears 
 that no article is spared by these unhappy men when 
 a near relative dies ; their clothes and tents are cut to 
 pieces, their guns broken, and every other weapon 
 rendered useless, if some person do not remove these ar- 
 ticles from their sight, which is seldom done. Mr. Back 
 sketched one of the children. This delighted the 
 father very much, who charged the boy to be very 
 good now, since his picture had been drawn by a great 
 Ohief. We learned that they prize pictures very 
 highly, and esteem any they can get, however badly 
 
 executed, ;is ellirjent cliarillS. Tliey Were Ult;ible to 
 
 give ns au\ information respecting the country beyond
 
 In the An tic I: Ti 
 
 the Athabasca Lake, which is the boundary of their 
 nations to thd northward. Baying been ap- 
 prized of oar coming, they had prepared an encamp- 
 ment for as ; hut we had witnessed too many proofs 
 of their importunity to expect that we could pass. the 
 night near them in any comfort, whilst either spirits, 
 tobacco, or BUgar, remained in onr possession ; and 
 therefore preferred to go about two miles further 
 along the river, and to encamp among a cluster of 
 fine pine trees, after a journey of sixteen miles. 
 
 ( »:i the morning of the l.~>th, in proceeding along 
 the river, we perceived a strong smell of sulphur, and 
 on the north shore found a quantity of it scattered, 
 which seemed to have been deposited by some Bpring 
 in the neighborhood : it appeared very pure ami good. 
 We continued our course the whole day along the 
 river, which is about four hundred yards wide, has 
 some Elands, and is confined between low land, ex- 
 tending from the bases of the mountains on each side. 
 We put up at the end of thirteen miles, and were then 
 
 joined by a Ohipewyan, who came, as we Buppoc 
 
 lo serve as our vruiib- to Pierre au Calumet, but as 
 none of the party could communicate with our new 
 friend*, otherwise than by Bigns, we waited patiently 
 until the morning to sec what he intended to do. 
 The wind hi ■■■■ during the night, and the snow 
 
 fell heavily. The next day our guide led us to the
 
 78 Thirty Years 
 
 Pembina River, which comes from the southward, 
 where we found traces of Indians, who appeared to 
 have quitted this station the day before ; we had, 
 therefore, the benefit of a good track, which our dogs 
 much required, as they were greatly fatigued, by hav- 
 ing dragged their loads through very deep snow for 
 the last two days. A moose deer crossed the river 
 just before the party : this animal is plentiful in the 
 vicinity. We encamped in a pleasant, well sheltered 
 place, having traveled fourteen miles. 
 
 We had made but a short distance the following 
 morning, when we came to some Indian lodges, which 
 belonged to an old Chipewyan chief, named the Sun, 
 and his family, consisting of five hunters, their wives, 
 and children. They were delighted to see us, and 
 when the object of our expedition had been explained 
 to them, expressed themselves much interested in our 
 progress ; but they could give no particle of informa- 
 tion respecting the countries beyond the Athabasca 
 Lake. We. smoked with them, and gave each person 
 a glass of mixed spirits and some tobacco. We learn- 
 ed from a Canadian servant of the North- West Com- 
 pany, who was residing with them, that this family 
 hud losl QUmerOUS relatives, and that, the destruction 
 of property, which had been made after their deaths, 
 was the only cause for the pitiable condition in which 
 iw them. He said the whole were industrious
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 79 
 
 hunters, and, therefore, were usually better provii 
 with clothes, and other useful articles, than most of 
 the Indians. We purchased from them a pair of 
 snow-shoes, in exchange for some ammunition. 'I 
 Chipewyana are celebrated for making them good and 
 
 - to walk in ; we saw some here upwards of six 
 feel long, and three broad ; with these unwieldy el 
 an active hunter, in the spring, when there is a crust 
 on the surface of the snow, will run down a moose or 
 red deer. 
 
 We made very slow progress after leaving this party, 
 on account of tie- deep snow, hut continued along the 
 river until we reached its junction with the Atha- 
 basca, or Elk River. Very little wood has been seen 
 during this day's march. The western shore, near the 
 I rks, is destitute of trees; it is composed of lofty 
 perpendicular cliffs, which are now covered with snow. 
 The eastern shore supports a few pirns. 
 
 March 1M. — Soon after our departure from the en- 
 campment we met two men, from the establishment 
 a' Pierre an Calumet, who gave us correct inform :- 
 tion dt' the Bltuation and distance. Having tie- bene- 
 tit of their track, we inarched at a tolerably quick 
 pace, ami made twenty-two miles in the course i f 
 day, though the weather was wry disagreeable for 
 traveling, being stormy, with constant snow. \\ e 
 kept along the river the whole time ; its breadth i-
 
 80 Thirty Years 
 
 about two miles. The islands appear better furnish- 
 ed with wood than its banks, the summits of which 
 are' almost bare. Soon after we had encamped our 
 Indian guide rejoined us ; he had remained behind 
 yesterday, to accompany a friend on a hunting excur- 
 sion, without consulting us. On his return this even- 
 ing he made no endeavor to explain the reason of his 
 absence, but sat down coolly, and began to prepare his 
 supper. 
 
 Showers of snow fell until noon on the following 
 day, but we continued our journey along the river, 
 whose banks and islands became gradually lower as we 
 advanced, and less abundantly supplied with wood, 
 except willows. We came up with an old Canadian, 
 who was resting his wearied dogs during the heat 01 
 the sun. He was carrying meat from some Indian 
 lodges to Fort Chipewyan, having a burden exceeding 
 two hundred and fifty pounds on his sledge, which 
 was dragged by two miserable dogs. He came up to 
 our encampment after dark. We were much amused 
 by the altercation that took place between him and our 
 Canadian companions as to the qualifications of their 
 respective dogs. This, however, is such a general topic 
 onversation among the voyagers in the encampment, 
 that we should not probably have remarked it, had 
 n »t the old man frequently offered to bet the whole of 
 
 his wages that his two dogs, poor and lean as they
 
 Iii the Arctic !,'■ gions. 81 
 
 were, would drag their load to the Athabasca Lake in 
 less time than any three of theirs could. Saving ex- 
 pressed our surprise at hisapparenl temerity, he coolly 
 said the men from the lower countries did not under- 
 :.tl the management of their dogs, and that he de- 
 pended on his superior skill in driving ; and we soon 
 gathered from his remarks, that the voyagers of the 
 Athabasca department consider themselves as very su- 
 perior to any other. The only reasons which he could 
 assign were, thai they had borne their burdens across 
 
 the terrible Methye Porta-.', and that they were ac- 
 
 nied to live harder and more precariously. 
 March 25. — Eaving now the guidance of an old Ca- 
 nadian, we -ent forward the Indian, and one of our 
 men, with letters to the gentleman at the Athabai 
 Lake. The rest of the party set oil* afterwards, and 
 kept along the river until ten, when, we branched off 
 by portages into the Embarrass River, the usual chan- 
 nel of communication in canoes with the lake. It is 
 
 a DaiTOW and serpentine stream, confined between al- 
 luvial hanks which support pines, poplars, and willows. 
 We had not advanced far before we came up with the 
 two men despatched by us this morning. '1'he Btormy 
 
 weather had compelled them to encamp, as there was 
 
 too much drifting of the snow for any attempt b 
 made to cross the lake. We were obliged, though 
 
 nio-t reluctantly, to follow their example ; hut wecom- 
 
 l-
 
 82 Thirty Years 
 
 forted ourselves with the reflection that this was the 
 first time we had been stopped by the weather during 
 our long journey, which was so near at an end. The 
 gale afterwards increased, the squalls at night became 
 very violent, disburthened the trees of the snow, and 
 gave us the benefit of a continual fall of patches from 
 them, in addition to the constant shower. We there- 
 fore quickly despatched our suppers, and retired under 
 the shelter of our blankets. 
 
 March 26. — The boisterous weather continued 
 through the night, and it was not before six this morn- 
 ing, that the wind became apparently moderate, and the 
 snow ceased. Two of the Canadians were immediately 
 sent off with letters to the gentlemen at Fort Chipew- 
 yan. After breakfast we also started, but our Indian 
 friend, having a great indisposition to move in such 
 weather, remained by the fire. We soon quitted the 
 river, and after crossing a portage, a small lake, and a 
 point of land, came to the borders of the Mam-ma- 
 wee Lake. We then found our error as to the strength 
 of the wind ; and that the gale still blew violently, 
 and there was so much drifting of the snow as to 
 cover the distant objects by which our course could be 
 directed. We fortunately got a glimpse through this 
 cloud of a cluster of islands in the direction of the 
 houses, and decided on walking towards them ; but in 
 doiiiL' this wo Buffered very much from the cold, and
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 83 
 
 were obliged to halt cinder the shelter of them, and 
 await the arrival of onr [ndiarj guide. lie condud 
 us between these islands, over a Bmall Lake, ami by a 
 swampy river, into the Athabasca Lake, from wl 
 
 stablishments were visible. At four r. >i. wo had 
 the pleasure of arriving at Fort Chipewyan, and of 
 being received by Messrs. Keith and Black, tin' part- 
 ners "i' tin' North-West Company in charge, in the 
 most kind and hospitable manner. Thus has termina- 
 ted a winter's journey of eight hundred and titty-- 
 miles, in the progress of which there has been a 
 intermixture of agreeable and disagreeable circum- 
 stances. Could the amount of each he ballanced, 1 
 suspect the latter would much preponderate ; and 
 amongst these the initiation into the practice of walk- 
 ing in Bnow-shoes must he considered as prominent. 
 The suffering it occasions can In- hut faintly imagined 
 by a person who thinks upon the Inconvenience of 
 inarching with a weight of between two and three 
 
 pounds constantly attached to galled feet, and swelled 
 
 ankles. Perseverance and practice only will enable 
 the novice to Burmount this pain. 
 
 The next evil is the being constantly exposed to 
 witness the wanton and unnecessary cruelty of the 
 
 men to their dogs, especially those of i he ( 'anadiai.s, 
 who heat them unmercifully, and habitually v. 
 them the most dreadful and disgusting imprecations.
 
 84 Thirty Years 
 
 There are other inconveniences which, though keenly 
 felt during the day's journey, are speedily forgotten, 
 when stretched out in the encampment before a large 
 fire, you enjoy the social mirth of your companions, 
 who usually pass the evening in recounting their for- 
 mer feats in traveling. At this time the Canadians 
 are always cheerful and merry, and the only bar to 
 their comfort arises from the frequent interruption oc- 
 casioned by the dogs, who are constantly prowling 
 about the circle, and snatching at every kind of food 
 that happens to be within their reach. These useful 
 animals are a comfort to them afterwards, by the 
 warmth they impart when lying down by their side or 
 feet, as they usually do. But the greatest gratifica- 
 tions a traveler in these regions enjoys, are derived 
 from the hospitable welcome he receives at every 
 trading post, however poor the means of the host may 
 be ; and from being disrobed even for a short time of 
 the trappings of a voyager, and experiencing the plea- 
 sures of cleanliness. 
 
 The following are the estimated distances, in stat- 
 ute miles, which Mr. Back and I have traveled since 
 
 our departure from Cumberland : 
 
 From Cumberland House to Carlton House - - - - 263 
 
 From Carlton to Isle a la Crosse 230 
 
 ■ North side of the Methyc Portage 1 2 1 
 
 From the Methye Portage to Fort Chlpevryan - - - 240 
 
 8f>7 Miles,
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 
 
 C II APT Ell IV. 
 
 Os the day of our arrival at Fort Chipe- 
 wvan we culled apoD Mr. BlacDonald, the gentleman 
 in charge of the Bndson'a Bay Establishment, called 
 Fori Wedderburne, and delivered to him Oovernor 
 Williams's circular letter, which desired that everyas- 
 Bistance Bhonld be given to further our progress, and a 
 statement of the requisitions which we should have to 
 
 make tni hifi 1 
 
 Our first object was to obtain Borne certain informa- 
 tion respecting our future route ; and accordingly we 
 received from one of the North-West Company's in- 
 terpreters, named Beaulieu, a half-breed, who had 
 been brought up amongst the Dog-ribbed and Copper 
 Indians, Borne satisfactory information, which we after- 
 wards found tolerably correct, respecting the mode of 
 reaching the Copper-mine River, which he had de- 
 scended a considerable way, as well as of the course of 
 that river to its month, The Copper Indians, how- 
 ever, he said, would be able to give us more accurate
 
 86 Thirty Years 
 
 information as to the latter part of its course, as they 
 occasionally pursue it on the sea. He sketched on the 
 floor a representation of the river, and a line of coast 
 according to his idea of it. Just as he had finished, 
 an old Chipewyan Indian, named Black Meat, unex- 
 pectedly came in, and instantly recognized the plan. 
 He then took the charcoal from Beaulieu, and inserted 
 a track along the sea-coast, which he had followed in 
 returning from a war excursion, made by his tribe 
 against the Esquimaux He detailed several particu- 
 lars of the coast and the sea, which he represented as 
 studded with well- wooded islands, and free from ice, 
 close to the shore, but not to a great distance, in the 
 month of July. He described two other rivers to the 
 eastward of Copper-mine River, which also fall into 
 the Northern Ocean. The Anatessy, which issues from 
 the Contway-to or Rum Lake, and the Thloueea-tessy 
 or Fish River, which rises near the eastern boundary 
 of the Great Slave Lake ; but he represented them 
 both as being shallow, and too much interrupted by 
 barriers for being navigated in any other than small 
 Indian canoes. 
 
 1 laving received this satisfactory intelligence, I 
 wrote immediately to Mr. Smith, of the North-West 
 Oonrpany, and Mr. M'Vicar, of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company, the gentlemen in charge of the posts at the 
 Q-real Silvn- Lake, to communicate the object of the
 
 In the Arctic B 87 
 
 Expedition, and our proposed route; and to solicit 
 any information they possessed, or could collect, from 
 the Indians, relative to the countries we had to pass 
 through, and the best manner of proceeding. As the 
 Copper Indians frequent the establishment on the 
 north side of the lake, I particularly requested them 
 to explain to that tribe the object of our visit, and 
 to endeavor to procure from them some guides and 
 hunters to accompany our party. Two Canadians 
 
 w! iv sent by Sir. Keith with these letters. 
 
 The month of April commenced with fine and clear 
 hut extremely odd weather ; unfortunately we were 
 still without a thermometer, and could doI ascertain 
 the degrees of temperature. The coruscations of the 
 Aurora were very brilliant almosl every evening of the 
 firsl week, and wore generally of the most variable 
 kind. On the 3d, they were particularly changeable. 
 The first appearance exhibited three illuminated beams 
 issuing from the horizon in the north, east, and v. 
 points, and directed towards the zenith : in a few 
 seconds these disappeared, and a complete circle was 
 displayed, bounding the horizon at an elevation of 
 fifteen degrees, There was a quick lateral motion in 
 
 the attenuated beams of which this /.one was compos- 
 ed. Its color was a pale yellow, with an occasional 
 tinge of red. 
 
 On the 8th of April the Indians saw some geese in
 
 88 Thirty Years 
 
 the vicinity of this lake, but none of the migratory- 
 birds appeared near to the houses before the 15th, when 
 some swans flew over. These are generally the first 
 that arrive ; the weather had been very stormy for the 
 four preceding days, and this in all probability kept 
 the birds from venturing farther north than where the 
 Indians had first seen them. 
 
 In the middle of the month the snow began to waste 
 daily, and by degrees it disappeared from the hills and 
 the surface of the lake. On the 17th and 19th the 
 Aurora appeared very brilliant in patches of light, 
 bearing N.W. An old €ree Indian having found a 
 beaver lodge near to the fort, Mr. Keith, Back, and I, 
 accompanied him to see the method of breaking into 
 it, and their mode of taking those interesting ani- 
 mals. The Icftlge w:ts constructed on the side of a 
 rock in a small lake, having the entrance into it be- 
 neath the ice. The frames were formed of layers of 
 slicks, the interstices being filled with wood, and the 
 outside was plastered with earth and stones, which 
 the frosl had so completely consolidated, that to break 
 through required great labor, with the aid of the ice 
 chisel, and the Other iron instruments which the hea- 
 ver hunters use. The chase, however, was UD8UC- 
 
 ci in!, as the beaver had previously evacuated the 
 
 lodge. 
 
 The firal '■'•ese we i.hseTved flying near to the tort
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 89 
 
 \wre seen on the 21st, and some were brought to the 
 house «'ii the 30th, bui they were very lean ; on the 
 25th flies were Been sporting in the sun, and on the 
 26th the ice on the lake, near the channel of the river, 
 was overflowed, in consequence*of the Athabasca river 
 having broken up ; lmt except where this water spread, 
 there was no appearance of decay in the ice. 
 
 May.— During the first part of this month, the wind 
 blew from the N.W., and the sky was cloudy- It 
 generally thawed during the day, lmt froze through 
 the night. On the 2d the Aurora faintly gleamed 
 through very dense clouds. 
 
 We had a lung conversation with Mr. Dease of the 
 North-West Company, who had recently arrived from 
 his station at the bottom of the Athabasca Lake. 
 This gentleman, having passed several winters on the 
 Mackenzie's River, and at the posts to the northward 
 of Slave Lake, possessed considerable information res- 
 pecting the Indians, and those parts of the country 
 to which our inquiries were directed, which he very 
 promptly and kindly communicated. I taring out con- 
 versation, an old Chipewyan Indian, named the Rab- 
 bit's Head, entered the room, to whom Mr. Dease re- 
 ferred for information on some point. Wefoundfrom 
 his answer that he was a Btep BOD of the late Chief 
 Matonnabee, who had accompanied Mr. Bearneonhis 
 
 journey to the sea, and that "he had himself been of
 
 90 Thirty Years 
 
 the party, but being then a mere boy, he had forgot- 
 ten many of the circumstances. He confirms, how- 
 ever, the leading incidents related by Hearne, and was 
 positive he reached the sea, though he admitted that 
 none of the party had tasted the water. He repre- 
 sented himself to be the only survivor of that party. 
 As he was esteemed a good Indian, I presented him 
 with a medal, which he received gratefully, and con- 
 cluded a long speech upon the occasion, by assuring 
 me he should preserve it carefully all his life. 
 
 On the 10th of May we were gratified by the ap- 
 pearance of spring, though the ice remained firm on 
 the lake. The anemone (pulsatilla, pasque flower,) 
 appeared this day in flower, the trees began to put 
 forth their leaves, and the musquitoes visited the warm 
 rooms. On the 17th and 18th there were frequent 
 showers of rain, and much thunder and lightning. 
 This moist weather caused the ice to waste so rapidly, 
 that by the 24th it had entirely disappeared from the 
 lake. The gentlemen belonging to both the Compa- 
 nies quickly arrived from the different posts in this 
 department, bringing their winter's collection of furs, 
 which are forwarded from these establishments to the 
 depdts. 
 
 July 2. — The canoe, which was ordered to be built 
 for our use, was finished. As it was constructed after 
 the manner, which has been accurately described by
 
 hi the Arctic Begums. 91 
 
 Beanie, and several of the American travelers, a detail 
 of the process will be unnecessary. It- extreme 
 1. ogth was thirty-two feel six inches, including the 
 bow and stern pieces; its greatest breadth was four 
 feel ten inches, but it was only two feet nine inches 
 forward where the bowman Bat, and two feet four inches 
 behind where the steersman was placed ; and its depth 
 was one foot eleven and a quarter inches. There were 
 Dty-three hoops of thin cedar, and a layer of slen- 
 der laths of the same wood within the frame. These 
 feeble vessels of bark will carry twenty-five pieces of 
 goods, each weighing ninety pounds, exclusive of the 
 necessary provision and baggage for the crew of five 
 or six men, amounting in the whole to about three 
 thousand three hundred pounds' weight, This gi 
 lading they annually carry between the depots and the 
 posts, in the interior ; and it rarely happens that any 
 accidents occur, if they are managed by experienced 
 bowmen and steersmen, on whose skill the safety of 
 the canoe entirely depends in the rapids and difficult 
 places. When a total portage is made, these twomen 
 carry the I lanoe, and they often run with it, though its 
 weight is estimated at about three hundred pounds, 
 exclusive of the poles and oars, which arc occasionally 
 left in where the distance is BD 
 
 July 13. — This morning Mr. Back and I had the 
 sincere gratification <>f welcoming our long separated
 
 92 Thirty Tears 
 
 friends, Dr. Kichardson and Mr. Hood, who arrived in 
 perfect health with two canoes, having made a very 
 expeditious journey from Cumberland, notwithstand- 
 ing they were detained near three days in consequence 
 of the melancholy loss of one of their bowmen, by 
 the upsetting of a canoe in a strong rapid ; but, as 
 the occurrences of this journey, together with the 
 mention of some other circumstances that happened 
 previous to their departure from Cumberland, which 
 have been extracted from Mr. Hood's narrative, will 
 appear in the following chapter, it will be unnecessa- 
 ry to enter farther into these points now. 
 
 The zeal and talent displayed by Dr. Richardson 
 and Mr. Hood in the discharge of their several duties, 
 since my separation from them, drew forth my highest 
 approbation. These gentlemen had brought all the 
 stores they could procure from the establishments at 
 Cumberland and at Isle a la Crosse ; and at the latter 
 place they bad received ten bags of pemmican from 
 tli-' North-West Company, which proved to be mouldy 
 and so totally unlit for use that it was left at the Me- 
 thye portage. They got none from the Hudson's Bay 
 post. The voyagers belonging to tli.it Company," 
 being destitute of provisions, had eaten what was in- 
 to aded for us. In consequence of these untoward 
 circumstances, the canoes arrived with only one's day 
 supply of this most essential article. The prospect
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 93 
 
 of having to commence our journey from hence, almost 
 destitute of provision, and scantily supplied with 
 Btores, was distressing to us, and very discouraging to 
 the men. It was evident, however, thai anyunne 
 Miry delay here would have been very imprudent, as 
 Fort Chipewyan did hot, at the present time, furnish 
 the means of subsistence for so large a party, much 
 Less was there a prospecl of our receiving any supply 
 
 carry with us. We, therefore, hastened to m 
 the accessary arrangements for our speedy departure. 
 All the Btores were demanded that could possibly be 
 spand from both the establishments ; and we rejoi 
 to find, that when this collection was added to the ar- 
 ticles that had hem brought up by the canoe-;, that 
 we had a sufficient quantity of clothing for the equip- 
 ment of the men who had been engaged here, as well 
 as to furnish a present to the Indians, besides some 
 i\w goods lor the winter's consumption ; but we could 
 not procure any ammunition, which was the most es- 
 sential article, or spirits, and but little tobacco. 
 
 We then made a final arrangement respecting the 
 
 voyagers, who were to accompany the party ; and for- 
 tunately, there was no difficulty in doing this, as Dr. 
 Richardson and Mr. Hood had taken the very judicious 
 precaution of bringing up ten men from Cumberland, 
 who were engaged to proceed forward if' their services 
 were required. The Canadians, whom they brought,
 
 94 Thirty Years 
 
 were most desirous of being continued, and we felt sin- 
 cere pleasure in being able to keep men who were so 
 zealous in the cause, and who had given proofs of their 
 activity on their recent passage to this place, by dis- 
 charging those men who were less willing to undertake 
 the journey ; of these three were Englishman, one 
 American, and three Canadians. When the numbers 
 were completed, which we had been recommended by 
 the traders to take as a protection against the Esqui- 
 maux, we had sixteen Canadian-voyagers, and our 
 worthy and only English attendant John Hepburn, 
 besides the two interpreters whom we were to receive 
 at the Great Slave Lake ; we were also accompanied 
 by a Chipewyan woman. An equipment of goods 
 was given to each of the men who had been engaged 
 at this place, similar to what had been furnished to the 
 others at Cumberland; and when this distribution 
 bad been made, the remainder were made up into 
 bales, preparatory to our departure on the following 
 day. We were cheerfully assisted in these and all our 
 occupations by Mr. Smith, who evinced an anxious 
 desire to supply our wants ;is far as his means per- 
 mitted.
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 95 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 EARLY this morning the stores were distributed 
 to the three canoes. Our stock of provision unfortu- 
 nately did not amount to more than sufficient for one 
 day's consumption, exclusive of two Barrels of flour, 
 three rases of preserved meats, some chocolate, arrow- 
 root, and portable soup, which we had brought from 
 England] and intended to reserve for our journey to 
 the coast next season. Seventy pounds of moose meat 
 and a little barley were all that Mr. Smith was ena- 
 bled to give us. It was gratifying, however, to per- 
 ceive that this scarcity of food did not depress the 
 spirits of our Canadian companions, who cheerfully 
 loaded their canoes, and embarked in high glee after 
 they had r< ceived the customary dram. At noon we 
 bade farewell to our kind friend Mr. Smith. The 
 crews commenced a lively paddling Bong on quitting 
 the shore, which was continued until we had lost 
 Bight of the houses. We soon reached the wastern 
 boundary of the lake, and at two entered the Stoney 
 Iviver, 0U0 of the discharges of the Athabasca Lake,
 
 96 Thirty Years 
 
 into the Slave River, and having a favoring current 
 passed swiftly along. This narrow stream is confined 
 between low swampy banks, which support willows, 
 dwarf birch, and alder. At five we passed its conflux 
 with Peace River. The Slave River, formed by the 
 union of these streams, is about three-quarters of a 
 mile wide. We descended this magnificent river with 
 much rapidity, and after passing through, several nar- 
 row channels, formed by an assemblage of islands, 
 crossed a spot where the waters had a violent whirl- 
 ing motion, which, when the river is low, is said to 
 subside into a dangerous rapid ; on the present occa- 
 sion, no other inconvenience was felt than the inabili- 
 ty of steering the canoes, which were whirled about in 
 every direction by the eddies, until the current carried 
 them beyond their influence. We encamped at seven, 
 on the swampy bank of the river, but had scarcely 
 pitched the tents before we were visited by a terrible 
 thunder-storm ; the rain fell in torrents, and the vio- 
 lence of the wind caused the river to overflow its 
 banks, so that we were completely flooded. Swarms 
 of mosquitoes succeeded the storm, and their torment- 
 ing stings, superadded to other inconveniences, induced 
 us to embark, and, after taking a hasty BUpper, to 
 pursue <»ur voyage down the stream during the night. 
 
 At six on the following morning we passed the 
 Reindeer Islands, and at ten reached the entrance of
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 07 
 
 the Dog River, where we halted to set the fishing nets. 
 These were examined in the evening, but to our mor- 
 tification we obtained only four small trout, and were 
 compelled to issue part of our preserved meats for sup- 
 per. The Latitude of the mouth of Dog River, was 
 rved59° 52' 16" N. 
 
 The nets were taken Up at daylight, hut they fur- 
 
 nished only a solitary pike. We losl no time in em- 
 barking, and crossed the crooked channel of the Dog 
 Rapid, when two of the canoes came in such violent 
 contact with each other, that the sternmost had its 
 how broken off. We were fortunately near to the 
 shore, or the disabled canoe would have sunk. The 
 injury being repaired in two hours, we again embarked, 
 and having descended another rapid, arrived at the 
 
 ■ of lour hundred and sixty paces, o 
 which the cargoes and canoes were carried in about 
 twenty-six minutes. We in-.\i passed through a nar- 
 row channel full of rapids, crossed the Portage d'Em- 
 barras of seventy yards ; and the portage of the Little 
 
 Rock, of three hundred yards, at which another acci- 
 dent happened to one of the canoes, by the bowman 
 
 slipping and letting it fall upon a rock, and break 
 
 i; in two. Two hours were occupied in sewing the de- 
 tached pieces together, and covering the seam with 
 pitch ; but this being done, it was as effective as De- 
 leaving this place we soon came to the
 
 98 Thirty Tears 
 
 next portage, of two hundred and seventy-three paces ; 
 and shortly afterwards to the Mountain Portage, of one 
 hundred and twenty : which is appropriately named, 
 as the path l^ads over the summit of a high hill. 
 This elevated situation commands a very grand and 
 picturesque view, for some miles along the river, which 
 at this part is about a mile wide. 
 
 We next crossed a portage of one hundred and 
 twenty yards ; and then the Pelican portage of eight 
 hundred paces. Mr. Back took an accurate sketch of 
 the interesting scenery which the river presents at this 
 place. After descending six miles further we came to 
 the last portage on the route to Slave Lake, which we 
 crossed, and encamped at its lower end. It is called 
 " The Portage of the Drowned," and it received that 
 name from a melancholy accident which took place 
 many years ago. Two canoes arrived at the upper 
 end of the portage, in one of which there was an ex- 
 perienced guide. This man, judging from the height 
 of the river, deemed it practicable to shoot the rapid, 
 and determined upon trying it. He accordingly 
 placed himself in the bow of his canoe, having pre- 
 viously agreed, that if the passage was found easy, he 
 should, on reaching the bottom of tin 1 rapid, fire a 
 musket, as a Bignal for the other canoe to follow. 
 The rapid proved dangerous, and called forth all the 
 l of the guide, and the utmost exertion of his
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 99 
 
 Crew, and they narrowly escaped destruction. Jusl 
 landing, an unfortunate fellow, seizing 
 the Loaded fowling-piece, fired at a duck which rose 
 at the instant. The guide anticipating the con 
 quences, ran with the utmost haste to the other end 
 of the portage, but he was too Late : the other cai 
 had pushed off, and he arrived only to witness the 
 fate of his comrades. Th ilarmed in the mid- 
 
 dle of the rapid, the canoe was upset, and every man 
 perished. 
 
 The various rapids we have pass sd to-day, are pro- 
 duced by an assemblage of islands and rocky led 
 which obstruct the river, and divide it into many nar- 
 row channels. Two of these channels are rendered 
 still more difficult by accumulations of drift timber ; 
 a circumstance which has giyen a name to one of the 
 portages. The rocks which form the bed of the river, 
 and the numerous islands, belong to the granite 
 formation. The, distance made to-day was thirteen 
 miles. 
 
 July 21. — We embarked at four A..M., and pursued 
 our course down the river. The rocks cease at the 
 last portage ; and below it the hanks are composed "t' 
 
 alluvial soil, which is held together by the roots of 
 the tiers and shrubs that crown their summits. Tie- 
 river is about a mile wide, and the currenl i- greatly 
 diminished. At eiffhl we landed at the mouth of ihu
 
 100 Thirty Years - 
 
 Salt River, and pitched our tents, intending to remain 
 here this and the next day for the purpose of fishing. 
 After breakfast, which made another inroad on our 
 preserved meats, we proceeded up the river in a light 
 canoe, to visit the salt springs, leaving a party behind 
 to attend the nets. This river is about one hundred 
 yards wide at its mouth. Its waters did not become 
 brackish until we had ascended it seven or eight 
 miles ; but when we had passed several rivulets of 
 fresh water which flowed in, the main stream became 
 very salt, at the same time contracting to the width 
 of fifteen or twenty yards. At a distance of twenty- 
 two miles, including the windings of the river, the 
 plains commence. Having pitched the tent at this 
 spot, we set out to visit the principal springs, and 
 walked abont three miles when the musquitoea com- 
 pelled us to give up our project We did not see the 
 to rmination of the plains towards the east, hut on the 
 
 north and west they are bounded by an even rid 
 
 about six or seven hundred feet in height. Several 
 
 salt springs issue from the foot of this ridge, and 
 
 spread their waters over the plain, which consists of 
 tenacious clay. Dining the summer much evapora- 
 tion takes place, and large heaps of silt are left 
 
 behind crystalized in the form of cubes. Some beds 
 reyish compa im were expo id on the sides 
 
 of ill,' hills.
 
 / the An ' >is. In 1 
 
 The nexl morning after rilling some casks with sail 
 for our use daring winter, we embarked to return, and 
 had descended the rrver a few miles, when turning 
 round a point, we perceived a hutl'alo plunge into the 
 river before as. Eager to secure so valuable a prize, 
 we instantly opened a fire upon him from four muskets, 
 and in a few minutes he fell, but not before he had 
 received fourteen balls. The carcass was towed to the 
 bank, and the canoe Bpeedily laden with meat 
 this piece of good fortune, we descended the stream 
 merrily, our voyagers chanting their liveli 
 On arrival al the mouth of the river, we found that 
 our nets had not produced more than enough to sup- 
 ply a scanty meal to the men whom we had Left 
 behind, hut this was now of little importance as the 
 acquisition of meat we had made, would enable us to 
 proceed without more delay to Slav.- Lake. In the 
 evening, a violent thunder-storm came on with heavy 
 rain ; thermometer 70°. 
 
 At a very early hour on the following morning, we 
 embarked, and continued to paddle against a very 
 
 Strong wind and high waves, under the shelter of the 
 
 hank of the rivers, until two P. M . when having 
 arrived at a more expORed part of the stream, the 
 canoes took in so much water that we wereobli 
 di« mbark on a small island. The river here is from 
 one mile and a quarter to one mile and three-quarters
 
 102 Thirty Years 
 
 wide. Its banks are of moderate height, sandy, and 
 well wooded, 
 
 July 24. — We made more progress notwithstanding 
 the continuance of the wind. The course of the river 
 is very winding, making in one place a circuit of seven 
 or eight miles round a peninsula, which is joined to 
 the west bank by a narrow isthmus. Near the foot 
 of this elbow, a long island occupies the centre of the 
 river, which it divides into two channels. 
 
 Soon after landing, I visited the Hudson's Bay post 
 on the same island, and engaged Pierre St. German, 
 an interpreter for the Copper Indians. We regretted 
 to find the posts of both the Companies extremely 
 bare of provision ; but as the gentleman in charge had 
 despatched men on the preceding evening, to a band 
 of Indians, in search of meat, and they promised to 
 furnish us with whatever should be brought, it was 
 deemed advisable to wait for their return, as the small- 
 est supply was now of importance in us. Advantage 
 Was takeD of the delay to repair l ffectually the canoe, 
 
 which had been broken in the Dog Rapid. On the next 
 i ening, the men arrived with the meat, and enabled 
 .Mr. M'Cleod, of the North-Wesl Company, to furnish 
 
 US with four hundred pounds of dried provisions. Mr. 
 
 M'Vicar, of the Budson's Bay ( lompany, also supplied 
 one hundred and fifty pounds. This quantity we con- 
 sidered would be sufficient, until we could join thehun-
 
 In the Arctic Regi . L03 
 
 We ako obtained three fishing nets, a gun, and 
 a pair of pistols, which were all the stores thesti p 
 could furnish, although the gentlemen in charge w< re 
 muoh disposed I us. 
 
 On the 27th of July we embarked a1 four A. M., 
 and proceeded along the south shore of the lake, 
 through a narrow channel, formed by sonic islands, 
 beyond the confluence of the principal branch of the 
 Slav River ; and as far as Stoney Island, where we 
 breakfasted. Thi< island is merely a rock of gnei b, 
 that rises forty or fifty feel above the lake, and is pre- 
 cipitous on the north side. As the day was fine, and 
 the lake smooth, we ventured upon paddling across 
 the Reindeer Islands, which were distant about thir- 
 teen miles in a northern direction, instead of pursuing 
 the usual track by keeping further along the south 
 shore, which inclines to the eastward from this point. 
 These islands are numerous, and consist of erani 
 rising from one hundn 1 to two hundred feel above the 
 water. They are for the most part naked ; but to- 
 wards the centres of the larger on,-, there i- a Li 
 
 ■ and ;i few f pin.-s. A: Beven in , 
 
 evening we landed upon one of them, and encamped. 
 On the following morning we ran befoi agbi 
 
 and a heavy swell, for some hours, hnt at length were 
 obliged to seek sh< Iter on a large island adjoining to 
 la I . ozie.
 
 104 Thirty Tears 
 
 The wind and swell having subsided in the after- 
 noon, we re-embarked, and steered towards the western 
 point of the Big Island of Mackenzie, and when four 
 miles distant from it, had forty-two fathoms soundings. 
 Passing between this island and a promontory of the 
 main shore, termed Big Cape, we entered into a deep 
 bay, which receives the waters from several rivers that 
 come from the northward ; and we immediately per- 
 ceived a decrease in the temperature of the water, 
 from 59° to 4S°. We coasted along the eastern side 
 of the day, its western shore being always visible, but 
 the canoes were exposed to the hazard of being broken 
 by the numerous sudden rocks, which were scattered 
 in our track. We encamped for the night on a rocky 
 island, and by eight A. M. on the following morning, 
 arrived at Fort Providence, which is situated twenty- 
 one miles from the entrance of the bay. The post is 
 exclusively occupied by the North- West Company, 
 the Hudson's Buy Company having no settlement to 
 the northward of Qreal Slave Luke. We found Mr. 
 Went/.el and our interpreter Jean Baptiste Adam 
 here, with one of the Indian guides : but the chief of 
 the tribe and his hunters were encamped with their 
 families, BOme miles from the fort, in a good situation 
 for fishing. Our arrival was announced to him by a 
 lire "u the Lip of a hill, and before oighl a messen 
 Came to communicate his intention of seeing us next
 
 In the Arctic /'.' 
 
 morning. The customary present, of I and 
 
 some other articles, was immedial to him. 
 
 Mr. Wentzel prepared me for the first confi i 
 with the Indians, hy mentioning all the information 
 they had already given to him. The duties allotted 
 to this gentleman were, the management of the In- 
 dians, the superintendence of the Canadian voyag 
 the obtaining, and the general distribution, of 
 provision, and the issue of the other stores. Tl 
 lie was well qualified to perform, having 1 
 accustomed to execute similar duties, during a : 
 dence of upwards of twenl untry. We 
 
 also deemed Mr. Wentzel to be a great acquisition to 
 our party, as a check upon the interpreters, he being 
 
 of the few traders who speak the' Chipewyan 
 
 langua 
 As we were Informed that externa] appearances 
 
 made lasting impressions upon the Indians, we pre- 
 pared for the interview hy dee irating ourselves in uni- 
 form, and su<p. oding a medal round each of our necks. 
 
 Our tents had hern previously pitched, and over one 
 
 of them a Bilken union flag was hoi-ted. B >on after 
 
 i, on July 30th, several Indian canoes « 
 
 advancing in a regular line, and on their approach, 
 the chief was die in the headmost, which was 
 
 paddled hy two men. On landing at the tort, the 
 
 chief assumed a I t, anil walked np to 
 
 5-
 
 106 Thirty Years 
 
 Mr. Wentzel with a measured and dignified step, 
 looking neither to the right nor to the left, at the per- 
 sons who had assembled on the beach to witness his 
 debarkation, but preserving the same immovability 
 of countenance until he reached the hall, and was in- 
 troduced to the officers. When he had smoked his 
 pipe, drank a small portion of spirits and water him- 
 self, and issued a glass to each of his companions, who 
 had seated themselves on the floor, he commenced his 
 harangue, by mentioning the circumstances that led 
 to his agreeing to accompany the expedition, an en- 
 gagement which he was quite prepared to fulfil. He 
 was rejoiced, he said, to see such great chiefs on his 
 lands, his tribe were poor, but they loved white men 
 who had been their benefactors ; and he hoped that 
 our visit woTild be productive of much good to them. 
 The report which preceded our arrival, he said, had 
 caused much grief to him. It was at first rumored 
 that a great medicine chief accompanied us, who was 
 able to restore the dead to life; at this he rejoiced, 
 the prospecl of agaiD seeing his departed relatives had 
 enlivened his spirits, but his first communication with 
 Mr. Wentzel had removed these vain hopes, and he 
 felt as if his friends had a second time been torn from 
 him. lie now wished to be informed exactly of ih< v 
 nature of our expedition. 
 In reply to this Bpeech, which 1 understood had
 
 In the A relic /•'■ Ft L07 
 
 been prepared for many days, I endeavored to explain 
 the objects of our mission in a manner besl calculated 
 to ensure his exertions in our service. With this vi 
 
 1 told liim that we were sent out by the greatest chi< f 
 in the world, who was the sovereign also of the trad- 
 ing companies in i ho country ; thai he was the friend 
 of peace, and had the interest of every nation at heart. 
 Bavins learned that his children in the north, were 
 much in want of articles of merchandize, in conse- 
 quence of tli>' extreme Length and difficulty of th i 
 
 tit route : he had sent us to search for a past 
 by the Bea, which, it found, would enable Large vessels 
 to transport great quantities of goods more easily to 
 their lands. That we had not come for the purpose of 
 traffic, but solely to make discoveries for their benefit, 
 
 as well as thai of every otlnr people. That we had 
 
 been directed to inquire into the nature of all the pro- 
 ductions of the countries we mighl pass through, and 
 particularly respecting their inhabitants. That we 
 desired the assistance of the Indians in guiding us, 
 and providing us with food j finally, thai we w 
 mosi positively enjoined by the greal chief to recom- 
 mend that hostilities should cease throughout this 
 country ; and especially between the Indians and 1 
 quimaux, whom he considered his children, in o 
 mon with other Datives; and by way of enfon 
 the latter point more strongly, I assured him that u
 
 108 Thirty Years 
 
 forfeiture of all the advantages which might be anti- 
 cipated from the expedition would be a certain conse- 
 quence, if any quarrel arose between his party and the 
 Esquimaux. I also communicated to him that owing 
 to the distance we had traveled, we had now few more 
 stores than were necessary for the use of our own 
 party, a part of these, however, should be forthwith 
 presented to him ; on his return, he and his party 
 should be remunerated with cloth, ammunition, to- 
 bacco, and some useful iron materials, besides having 
 their debts to the North-West Company discharged. 
 
 The chief, whose name is Akaitcho or Big-foot, 
 replied by a renewal of his assurances, that he and his 
 party would attend us to the end of our journey, and 
 that they would do their utmost to provide us with 
 the means of subsistence. He admitted that his tribe 
 made war upon the Esquimaux, but said they were 
 now desirous of peace, and unanimous in their opinion 
 as to the in cessity of all who accompanied us abstain- 
 ing from every act of enmity against that nation. 
 lie added, however, that the Esquimaux were very 
 treacherous, and therefore recommended that we should 
 advance towards them with caution. 
 
 The communication which thechief and the guides 
 then gave respecting the route to the Copper-Mine 
 River, :in<l its course to the sea, coincided in every 
 material poinl with the statements which were made
 
 In //,• Arctic "Regions. 109 
 
 by Boileau and Black-meat at Chipewyan, but they 
 differed in the descriptions of the The infor- 
 
 mation, however, collected from both sources was very 
 
 ue and unsatisfactory. None of his tribehad I 
 more than three days' march along the Bea-coast to 
 
 ward of the river's mouth. 
 the water was unusually high thi n, the 
 
 Indian guides recommended our going by a shorter 
 route to the Copper-Mine River than that they had 
 first 1 to Mr. Wentzel, and tb 
 
 for the change, that the rein-deer would be 
 aer found upon this tract. They then drew a chart 
 of the proposed route on the floor with charcoal, ex- 
 hibiting a chain of twenty-five small lakes extending 
 towards the north, about one-half of them conne 
 by a river which flows into Slave Lake, near !' 
 
 .ides, named Keskarrah, 
 drew t! r-Mine River, running through the 
 
 I -vrly direction towards the Great 
 
 B ti Like, and thru northerly to the sea. The Other 
 sruide drew the river in a straight line to the sea from 
 the above mentioned place, but after - m ■ dis] 
 admitted tl. if the first delineation. '. 
 
 latter was elder brother to Akaitcho, anil he said that 
 he had accompanied Mr. II t his journey, and 
 
 though very young at the time, still rememl 
 many of the circumstances, and particularly the mi--
 
 110 Thirty Years 
 
 sacre committed by the Indians on the Esquimaux. 
 They pointed out another lake to the southward of 
 the river, about three days' journey distant from it, 
 on which the chief proposed the next winter's estab- 
 lishment should be formed, as the rein-deer would pass 
 there in the autumn and spring. Its waters con- 
 tained fish, and there was a sufficiency of wood for 
 building as well as for the winter's consumption. 
 These were important considerations, and determined 
 me in pursuing the route they now proposed. They 
 could not inform us what time we should take in 
 reaching the lake, until they saw our manner of 
 traveling in the large canoes, but they supposed we 
 might be about twenty days, in which case I enter- 
 tained the hope that if we could then procure pro- 
 vision we should have time to descend the Copper- 
 Mine River for a considerable distance, if not to the 
 sea itself, and return to the lake before the winter 
 in. 
 It may here be proper to mention that it had been 
 my original plan to descend the Mackenzie's! River, 
 and to cross the Great Bear Lake, from the eastern 
 Bide of which, Boilean Informed me, there is a com- 
 munication with the Copper- Mine River by four small 
 and portages : but, under our present circum- 
 stances, this course could not be followed, because it 
 would remove us too far from the establishments, at
 
 In the Artie Regions. Ill 
 
 the Qreal Slav Lake, to receive the supplies of 
 ammunition and som ■ in the winter which 
 
 wen- absolutely i j for the prosecution of our 
 
 journey, or to get the Esquimaux interpreter, whom 
 we expected. Ii' I had not deemed these circumstan 
 paramounl 1 Bhould have preferred the route by Bear 
 Lake, 
 
 Akaitcho and the guides having communicated all 
 the information they possessed on the different points 
 to which our questions had been directed, I placed my 
 medal round the neck of the chief, and the offii 
 presented theirs to an elder brother of his and the two 
 guides, communicating to them that these marks of 
 distinction w< re given as tokens of our friendship and 
 as pledges of the sincerity of out professions. Being 
 conferred in the presence i all the hunters, their ac- 
 quisition was highly gratifying to them, but they stu- 
 diously avoided any greal expression of joy, because 
 Buch an exposure would have been unbecoming the 
 dignity which the senior Indians assume during a con- 
 ference. They assured us, however, of their being 
 duly sensible of thee of our regard, and that 
 
 they should be preserved during their lives with the 
 utmosl care. The chief evinced much penetration and 
 intelligence during the whole of this conversation, 
 which gave us a favorable opinion of his intellectual 
 powers, lie made many inquiries respecting tho
 
 112 Thirty Years 
 
 Discovery ships, under the command of Captain Parry, 
 which had been mentioned to him, and asked why a 
 passage had not been discovered long ago, if one exist- 
 ed. It may be stated that we gave a faithful explana- 
 tion to all his inquiries, which policy would have 
 prompted us to do if a love of truth had not ; for 
 whenever these northern nations detect a falsehood in 
 the dealings of the traders, they make it an unceasing 
 subject of reproach, and their confidence is irrecovera- 
 bly lost. 
 
 We presented to the chief, the two guides, and the 
 seven hunters, who had engaged to accompany us, 
 some cloth, blankets, tobacco, knives, daggers, besides, 
 oilier useful iron materials, and a gun to each ; also a 
 keg of very weak spirits and water, which they kept 
 until the evening, as they had to try their guns before 
 dark, and make the necessary preparations for com- 
 mencing the journey on tlie following day. The In- 
 dians, however, did nol leave us on the next d,i\. ae 
 the chief was desirous of being present, with hisparty, 
 at the dance, which was given in the evening to our 
 Canadian voyagers. They were highly entertained by 
 the vivacity and agility displayed by our companions 
 in their singing and dancing : and especially by their 
 
 imitating the gestures of a I 'anadian, who placed him- 
 self in the mosl ludicrous postures; and, whenever 
 
 this was done, the gravity of the chief gave way to
 
 /. •'•' ' Arctic Hegi 1 L3 
 
 violent bursts of laughter. In return for the gratifi- 
 cation Akaitcho had enjoyed, he desired his young men 
 to exhibit the Dog-Rib [ndian dance ; and immediate- 
 ly they ranged themselves in a circle, and i heir 
 
 i widely separated, began to jump simultaneously 
 Bideways ; their bodies were bent, their hands placed 
 en their hips, and they uttered forcibly the interjec- 
 tion tsa at each jump. Devoid as were their attitu 
 of grace, and their music of harmony, we were much 
 amused by the novelty of tne exhibition. 
 
 In the midst of this scene an untoward accidei 
 curred, which for a time interrupted our amue 
 
 tent in which Dr. Richardson and I lodged hav- 
 
 4 
 
 ing caughl fire from some embers that hud been placed 
 in it to expel the musquitoes, was entirely burnt. 
 Hepburn, who was sleeping within it, close to some 
 powder, most providentially awoke in time to throw it 
 clear of the flame, and rescue the . beforeany 
 
 material injury had been received. We dreaded the 
 
 consequences of this disaster upon the fickle mind 
 the Indians, and wished it not to be communicated to 
 them. The chief, however, was soon informed of it 
 by one of his people, and expressed his desire that 
 
 future misfortune should be concealed from him. We 
 found he was in led to hear that the flag had 
 
 been burnt, but we removed his anxiety on that point 
 by the assurance that it could easily be repaired. We
 
 114 Thirty Years 
 
 were advised by Mr. Wentzel to recommence the 
 dancing after this event, lest the Indians should ima- 
 gine, by our putting a stop to it, that we considered 
 the circumstance as an unfavorable commencement of 
 our undertaking. We were, however, deeply impress- 
 ed with a grateful sense of the Divine Providence, in 
 averting the threatened destruction of our stores, 
 which would have been fatal to every prospect of pro- 
 ceeding forward this season. 
 
 August 1. — This morning the Indians set out, in- 
 tending to wait for us at the mouth of the Yellow- 
 Knife River. We remained behind to pack our stores, 
 in bales of eighty pounds each, an operation which 
 could not be done in the presence of these Indians, as 
 they are in the habit of begging for every thing they 
 see. Our stores consisted of two barrels of gunpow- 
 der, one hundred and forty pounds of ball and small 
 shot, four fowling pieces, afewold trading guns, eight 
 pistols, twenty-four Indian daggers, some packages of 
 knives, chisels, axes, nails, and fastenings for a boal ; 
 a few yards <>1 - cloth, some blankets, needles, looking- 
 B, and beads ; together with nine fishing nets, 
 having meshes of different sizes. Our provision was 
 two casks of flour, two hundred dried reindeer tongues, 
 
 Borne dried moose meat, portable soup, and arrow-root, 
 
 sufficient in the whole for ti n days' consumption, be- 
 
 of eh ic In I e, and two canisters of tea.
 
 /// (In Ati ' '■■ Ii< 'J /'"US. 
 
 11. 
 
 We engaged another Canadian voyager a1 this place, 
 and the expedition then consisted of twenty-i 
 persons, including the officers, and the wives of three 
 of the voyagers, who were brought for the purpi 
 making shoes and clothes for the men at the winter 
 38tablishment ; there were also three children, b 
 Lng to two of these women. 
 
 ■ follow ing is the list of ;i (Beers and men who compi 
 
 ixpediUon on its departure from Port Providence: 
 
 John Pranklin, Lieutenant of the Royal Navy and Commai 
 Join, i, M. i> . Burgeon of the Royal Navy. 
 
 Mr. I the Royal Navy, Admiralty Midshipman. 
 
 Mr. Robert Hood, <>r the Royal Navy, Admiralty Midshipman. 
 Mis Fredi I Clerk to the North- West Company. 
 
 John Hepburn, English Beaman. 
 
 I ' i 1 1 . ■• \ 01 Li BBS. 
 
 John Peltier, Gabriel Beauparlant, 
 Mather Pelonquin, <lit Credit, Vincenza Pontano, 
 Solomon B illant, 
 
 • I'- -inn.it , Jean Baptiste Parent, 
 ■ 
 aaa, in, 
 
 h Forcier, Emanuel Courm 
 
 e Perrault, Michel Teroahaute an Troquota, 
 Ire. 
 
 Pierre St. German, 
 Jean Baptiste Adam. 
 
 I as. 
 
 Cbipewyan Bois
 
 116 Thirty Years 
 
 Our observations place Fort Providence in latitude 
 62° 17' 19" K, longitude 114° 9' 28" W. ; the vari- 
 ation of the compass is 33° 35' 55" E., and the dip 
 of the needle 86° 38' 02". It is distant from Moose- 
 Deer Island sixty-six geographic miles. This is the 
 last establishment of the traders in this direction, but 
 the North-West Company have two to the northward 
 of it, on the Mackenzie River. It has been erected 
 for the convenience of the Copper and Dog-rib Indians, 
 who generally bring such a quantity of reindeer meat 
 that the residents are enabled, out of their superabun- 
 dance, to send annually some provision to the fort at 
 Moose-Deer Island. They also occasionally procure 
 moose and buffalo meat, but these animals are not nu- 
 merous on this side of the lake. Few furs are collect- 
 ed. Lcs 2)oissons inconnus, trout, pike, carp, and 
 white fish, are very plentiful, and on these the resi- 
 dents principally subsist. Their great supply of fish 
 is procured in the latter part of September and the 
 beginning of October, but there are a few taken daily 
 in the nets during the winter. The surrounding coun- 
 try consists almosl entirely of coarse grained granite, 
 frequently enclosing large masses of reddish felspar. 
 Tli esc rocks form hills which attain an elevation of 
 three hundred or lour hundred feet, about a mile be- 
 hind the house ; their surface Is generally caked, but 
 in the valleys between them a few spruce and
 
 /// the Arctic Regions. 117 
 
 birches grow, together with a variety of shrubs and 
 berry-hearing plants. 
 
 On the afternoon of the 2d of August we commen- 
 ts dour journey, having, in addition to our three can 
 ■•i smaller one to convey the women ; we were all in 
 high spirits, being heartily glad that the time bad at 
 Length arrived when our course was to be directed to- 
 wards the Copper-Mine River, and through a line of 
 country which had not been previously visited by any 
 European. We proceeded to the northward, along the 
 eastern Bide of a deep hay of the lake, passing throu 
 various channels, formed by an assemblage of ro 
 islands ; and, at sunset, encamped on a projecting 
 point of the north main shore, eight miles from Fort 
 Providence. To the westward of this arm, or hay, of 
 the lake, there is another deep hay, that receives the 
 waters of a river, which communicates with greal Mar- 
 ten Lake, where the North-West Company had once 
 r post i stablished. 
 
 Aug, '■'>. — We embarked al three A. M. and proceed- 
 ed to the entrance of the Fellow-Knife River of the 
 
 traders, which is called hy the Natives Beg-ho-lo-d 
 
 By ; or. River of the Toothless Fish, We found Akait- 
 cho, ami the hunters with their families, encamped 
 here. There were also several other Indian- of Ids 
 tribe, who intended to accompany us some distance 
 into the interior. This part] was quickly in motion
 
 118 Thirty Years 
 
 after our arrival, and we were soon surrounded by a 
 fleet of seventeen Indian canoes. In company with 
 them we paddled up the river, which is one hundred 
 and fifty yards wide, and, in an hour, came to a cas- 
 cade of five feet, where we were compelled to make a 
 portage of one hundred and fifty-eight yards. We 
 next crossed a dilatation of the river, about six miles 
 in length, upon which the name of Lake Prosperous 
 was bestowed. Its shores, though scantily supplied 
 with wood, are very picturesque. 
 
 Akaitcho caused himself to be paddled by his slave, 
 a young man, of the Dog-rib nation, whom he had 
 taken by force from his friends ; when he thought him- 
 self, however, out of reach of our observation, he laid 
 aside a good deal of his state, and assisted in the la- 
 bor ; and after a few days' further acquaintance with 
 us. he did not hesitate to paddle in our presence, or 
 even cany his canoe on the portages. Several of the 
 canoes were managed by women, who proved to be 
 noisy companions, for they quarrelled frequently, and 
 the weakest was generally profuse in her lamentations, 
 which were not at all diminished, when the husband 
 attemped to settle the difference by a few blows with 
 his paddle. 
 
 Leaving the Lake, we ascended a very strong rapid, 
 and arrived at a range of three steep cascades, situa- 
 ted in the I" ad of the river, Here we made a portage
 
 In the An tic //< gions. 119 
 
 of one thousand three hundred yards ovct a rocky hill, 
 which received th<' name of the Bowstring Portage, 
 fromi We found that the Indians had g 
 
 ly the advantage of us in this operation ; the men 
 carried their small canoes, the women and children 
 the clothes and provisions, and at the end of th 
 tage they were ready to embark ; whilst it was i 
 sary for our people to return four times, before they 
 could transport the weighty cargo with which we 
 burthened. After passing through another expansion 
 of the river, and over the steep portage of one hun- 
 dred and fifteen yards, we encamped on a small rocky 
 isle, just I ngh to hold our party, and the In- 
 
 dians took possession of an adjoining rock. We were 
 imw distant thirty miles from Fort Providence. 
 
 A< Boon as the tents were pitched, the officers and 
 men were divided into watches for the night ; a pre- 
 caution intended to be taken throughout the journey, 
 not merely to prevent our being surprised by strangers, 
 but also to show our companions thai we were con- 
 stantly on our guard. The chief, who Buffered noth- 
 cape his observation, remarked, " that he 
 should Bleep without anxiety among the Esquimaux, 
 for he perceivi d no i nemy < ould surprise m 
 
 After supper we retired to rest, hut our Bleep was 
 soon interrupted by the Indians joining in loud lamen- 
 tations over a sick child, whom they supposed to be
 
 120 Thirty Years 
 
 dying. Dr. Richardson, however, immediately went 
 to the boy, and administered some medicine which re- 
 lieved his pain, and put a stop to their mourning. 
 The temperatures, this day, were at 4 A.M 54°, three 
 P.M. 72°, at seven P.M. 65°. 
 
 On the 4th we crossed a small lake, and passed over 
 in succession the Blue Berry Cascade, and Double 
 Fall Portages, where the river falls over ridges of rocks 
 that completely obstruct the passage for canoes. We 
 came to three strong rapids beyond these barriers, 
 which were surmounted by the aid of the poles and 
 lines, and then to a bend of the river in which the cas- 
 cades were so frequent, that to avoid them we carried 
 the canoes into a chain of small lakes. We entered 
 them by a portage of nine hundred and fifty paces, 
 and during the afternoon traversed three other grassy 
 lakes, and encamped on the banks of the river, at the 
 end of the \Y11m\v- Knife Portage, of three hundred 
 and fifty paces. This day's work was very laborious 
 to our men. Akaitcho, however, had directed his 
 party to assist them in carrying their burdens on the 
 portages, which they did cheerfully. This morning 
 Mr. Back can-lit several fish with a fly, a method of 
 fishing entirely new to the Indians; and they were 
 not more delighted than astonished at his skill and 
 The extremes of i< mperature to-day wen; 
 54° and I
 
 In the Arctic B g 121 
 
 On .' continued the ascent of th 
 
 er which varied much in breadth us did the current in 
 rapidity. It flows between high rocky hanks on which 
 then' is Buffi ! to support pines, birch, and pop- 
 
 lars. Five portages were crossed, then the Rocky 
 Lake, and we finished our labors at the end of the 
 h portage. The issue of dried meat for breakfast 
 this morning had exhausted all our stock ; and no 
 oth ' >n remained but the portable soups, and 
 
 a few pound irved meat. At the recommen- 
 
 dation of Akaitcho, the hunt • furnished with 
 
 ammunition, and d brward as speedily as 
 
 3ible, to the pari where the reindeer \ 
 to be found ; and to return to us with any provision 
 they could procn ared us thai i:i our 
 
 advance towards them we should come to lakes abound- 
 ing in fish. Many of the Indians, being also iii dis- 
 tress fa- food, decided on separating from us, and 
 g on at a quicker pace than we could travel. 
 
 Akaitcho himself was always furnished with a por- 
 tion at our meals, asatol the trad- 
 nave taughl the chiefs to expect, and which 
 willingly paid, 
 
 Th" next morning v. 1 :t small lake and a 
 
 portage, before we entered the river ; shortly after- 
 wards, the canoes and cargoes were carried a mile al 
 its banks to avoid t : . strong rapids, and i
 
 122 Thirty Years 
 
 another portage into a narrow lake ; we encamped on 
 an island in the middle of it, to set the nets ; but 
 they only yielded a few fish, and we had a very scanty 
 supper ; as it was necessary to deal out our provision 
 sparingly. 
 
 We had the mortification of finding the nets en- 
 tirely empty next morning, an untoward circumstance 
 that discouraged our voyagers very much ; and they 
 complained of being unable to support the fatigue to 
 which they were daily exposed, on their present scanty 
 fare. "We had seen with regret that the portages were 
 more frequent as we advanced to the northward, and 
 feared that their strength would fail, if provision were 
 not soon obtained. We embarked at six, proceeded 
 to the head of the lake, and crossed a portage of two 
 thousand five hundred paces, leading over ridges of 
 Band-hills, which nourished pines of a larger size than 
 we bad lately seen. This conducted as to Mossy 
 iin whence we regained the river, after travera- 
 another portage. The Birch and Poplar Porta- 
 ges next followed, and beyond these we came to a part 
 where (he river takes a great circuit, and its course is 
 interrupted by several heavy falls. The guide, there- 
 fore, advi ed us to (piit it. ami proceed through a 
 
 chain of nine lakes extending to the DOrth-east, which 
 
 ■ lid, and encamped on ley Portage, where the uets 
 wen- set. The bottom of the valley, through which
 
 In tin Arctic h 123 
 
 the fcrai ' this porl i red v. ith ice 
 
 thick, the remains of a large iceb 
 which is annually formed there, by the snow drifting 
 into the valley, and becoming consolidated into ice by 
 llif overflowing of some springs that are warm enough 
 
 isl the winter's cold. 
 We were alarmed in the night by cur fire commu- 
 nicating to the dry moss, which spreading by the \ 
 of u Btrong wind, encircled the encampment and 
 threatened destructi nr canoes and ' 
 
 The watch immediately I all the men, who 
 
 quickly removed whatever could be injured to a dis- 
 tant part, and afterward ring 
 the flame. 
 
 '. 8. — Daring this day we crossed five 
 passing over a very bad road. The men were quite 
 exhausted with fatigue by ii. . . when we w< 
 
 obliged to encamp on the borders of the fifth lake, in 
 which i: m this eve- 
 
 Ding t<> issue some portable soup and arrow-r 
 which our companions relished very much ; but tins 
 i is too unsubstantial to support their vigor under 
 their daily exhausting labor, and we could not fur- 
 n i - 1 1 them witli a sufficient quantity even of this to 
 satisfy their i our labors 
 
 the nexl day in a very wet, uncomfortable state, as it 
 had rained through the night until 4 A.M. The t
 
 124 Thirty Years 
 
 grassy lake was crossed, and four others, with their in- 
 tervening portages, and we returned to the river by a 
 portage of one thousand four hundred and fifteen 
 paces. The width of the stream here is about one 
 hundred yards, its banks are moderately high, and 
 scantily covered with wood. We afterwards twice 
 carried the cargoes along its banks to avoid a very 
 stony rapid, and then crossed the first Carp portage, 
 and encamped on the borders of Lower Carp Lake. 
 
 The chief having told us that this was a good lake 
 for fishing, we determined on halting for a day or two 
 to recruit our men, of whom three were lame, and sev- 
 eral others had swelled legs. The chief himself went 
 forward to look after the hunters, and lie promised to 
 make a fire as a signal if they had killed any reindeer. 
 All tin- Indians had left us in the course of yesterday 
 and to-day to Beek these animals, except the guide 
 Keskarrah. 
 
 Aug. LO. — The nets furnishing only four carp, we 
 embarked for thepurpo irehing for a better spot, 
 
 and encamped again on the shores of the same lake. 
 The spirits of the men were much revived by i 
 
 some recent traces of reindeer at this place, which 
 
 circumstance caused them t<» cherish the hope of 
 getting a supply of meat from the hunters. They 
 by finding abundance of blue ber- 
 rie i ear to the encampment, which made an agreeable
 
 Iii the An i '■■ /'.■ :' )ns. IlM 
 
 and substantial addition to their otherwise scanty fare. 
 We were teased by the sand-flies this evening, al- 
 though the thermometer did not rise ab ive 45°. The 
 country through which we have traveled for some days 
 consists principally <>i granite, intermixed in some 
 spots with mica slate, often passing into clay-sl 
 Bui the borders of Lower Car]) Lake, where the gn 
 formation prevails, are composed of hills, having 
 altitude, P wer preci] I more roundi '1 Bumn 
 
 The valleys are Less fertile, containing a gravelly Boil 
 and fewer tri that the country lias throughout 
 
 a more barren aspect. 
 
 '. 11. — Eaving caught sufficient trout, white 
 fish, and carp, yesterday ami this morning, to afford 
 the party two hearty meals, ami the men being re- 
 ared of their fatigue, we proceeded on our journey, 
 
 I the Upper Carp Portage, and embarked <>n 
 the lake of that name, where we had the gratification 
 of paddling tor ten miles. We put up at its termina- 
 tion to fish, by the advice aide. At this place 
 we first perceived the north end of our dipping-needle 
 t i pass the perpendicular line when the i ;: . 
 was faced to the \ 
 
 We had quitted the encampment next day 
 
 before an Indian met us, with th le commu- 
 
 nication, that the hunters had I 
 which wore certain indications of their having killed
 
 126 Thirty Years 
 
 reindeer. This intelligence inspired our companions 
 with fresh energy, and they quickly traversed the next 
 portage, and paddled through the Eeindeer Lake ; 
 at the north side of it we found the canoes of our 
 hunters, and learned from our guide that the Indians 
 usually leave their canoes here, as the water commu- 
 nication on their hunting grounds is bad. The Yel- 
 low-Knife Kiver has now dwindled into an insignificant 
 rivulet, and we could not trace it beyond the next 
 lake, except as a mere brook. The latitude of its 
 source 64° 1' 30" N., longitude 113° 36' W., and its 
 length is one hundred and fifty-six statute miles. 
 Though this river is of sufficient breadth and depth 
 for navigating in canoes, yet I conceive its course is 
 too much interrupted by cascades and rapids for its 
 ever being used as a channel for the conveyance ot 
 merchandize. Whilst the crews were employed in 
 making a portage over the foot of Prospect Hill, we 
 ascended to the top of it, and as it is the highest 
 ground in the neighborhood, its summit, which is 
 aboul five hundred feet above the water, commands 
 an extensive view. 
 
 Abiiteho, who was lare with his family, pointed 
 out to ns the Bmoke of the distant fires which the 
 hunters had made. The prospect from the hill is 
 : My diversified by ao intermixture of bill and 
 
 valley, and the appearance of twelve lakes in different
 
 In the A L , 
 
 directions. On the borders of ti 3 a few tl 
 
 pine groves occur, but the country in genera] i ' 
 tut.- of almost every vegetable, except ;i few berry- 
 bearing shrubs and lichens, and has a very barren 
 aspect. The hills are composed of gneiss, but their 
 acclivities an' covered with a c ravelly BoiL 
 
 [There are many loose Btones both on theii summits 
 
 ami acclivities, 1 d of the Bame materials as 
 
 solid ro » 
 
 We ci ed another lake in the eveoic aped, 
 
 ami set the nets. The chief made a large fire to 
 announce "in- situation t.> the hunters. 
 
 August 13. — We caught twenty fish this morning, 
 luit. they were small, ami furnished but a scanty break- 
 fast for the party. Whilst this meal was preparii 
 our Canadian voyagers, who had been for some days 
 • murmuring at their meagre diet, and striving 
 the whole of our little provision to consume at 
 once, broke oul into open discontent, and several of 
 them threatened they would not proceed forward unl 
 iimre food was given to them. This conduct v. 
 more unpardonable, as they saw we were rapidly ap- 
 
 proaching the firea ( I' the hunters, and that ] 
 
 vision might s ion be I irefore felt the 
 
 duty incumbent en me, to address them in t' 
 strongest manner mi the danger of insubordinati 
 mi,! t.> &i sure them of my determination t<> infli
 
 128 Thirty Years 
 
 heaviest punishment on any that should persist in 
 their refusal to go on, or in any other way attempt to 
 retard the Expedition. I considered this decisive 
 step necessary, having learned from the gentlemen 
 most intimately acquainted with the character of the 
 Canadian voyagers, that they invariably try how far 
 they can impose upon every new master with whom 
 they may serve, and that they will continue to he 
 disobedient and intractable if they once gain any 
 ascendency over him. I must admit, however, that 
 the present hardships of our. companions were of a kind 
 which few could support without murmuring, and no 
 one could witness without feeling a sincere pity for 
 their sufferings. 
 
 After this discussion we went forward until sunset. 
 In the course of the day we crossed seven lakes and 
 as many portages. Just as we had encamped, we 
 were delighted to see four of the hunters arrive, with 
 the flesh of two reindeer. This seasonable supply, 
 though only sufficienl for this evening's and the next- 
 consumption, instantly revived the spirits of our 
 companions, and they immediately forgot all their 
 As we did not, after this period, experience 
 any deficiency of food during this journey, they worked 
 extremely well, and Mever again reflected upfJri 
 they had done before, for rashly bringing them into an 
 inhospitable country, where the means of subsistence 
 could not be procured.
 
 /// th( Arctic R( . 129 
 
 i.il blue fii h, i semblii 
 caught in ;i Btream which flows oul i f Hui I 
 It is remarkable for the La of its dorsal fins, 
 
 and the beauty ol >rs. 
 
 ! 1 i. —Having crossed the Hunter's Port 
 we entered the lake of the same name, bul Boon quitted 
 i; by desire of the [ndian guide, and diverged more to 
 astward, thai we might gel into the line upon 
 which our huntera had gone. Thia waa the onlj 
 sideration thai could have induced as to remoi 
 chain of small 1 inected by long portages. We 
 
 ■ : . and then were oblig 
 
 camp to n Bl the m n. 
 
 After Btarting we first crossed the Orkney I 
 then a portage which brought us to Sandy Lake, and 
 here we missed one of our hands of powder, which 
 
 beersman of the canoe then recollected had 
 Li i'i yesterday. Be and two other men were sent 
 
 irch for it, in the small canoe, The real of the 
 party pr< ceeded to the portage on the north side of 
 the Grizzle-Bear Lake, where the hunters had made 
 a deposit of i md there encamped to await 
 
 their return, which happened at nine p, M. with the 
 powder. 
 
 On ■ the L7th, having finished drying the 
 
 meat, which had been retarded by the heavy BO 
 
 of rain that fell in the morning, we embarked at one
 
 130 Thirty Years 
 
 P. M. and crossed two lakes and two portages. The 
 last of these was two thousand and sixty-six paces 
 long, and very rugged, so that the men were much 
 fatigued. On the next day we received the flesh of 
 four reindeer by the small canoe which had been sent 
 for it yesterday, and heard that the hunters had kill- 
 ed several more deer on our route. We saw many of 
 those animals as we passed along to-day ; and our 
 companions, delighted with the prospect of having 
 food in abundance, now began to accompany their pad- 
 dling with singing, which they had discontinued ever 
 since our provisions became scarce. 
 
 Aug. 19. — After crossing a portage of five hundred 
 and ninety-five paces, a small lake and another portage 
 of two thousand paces, which occupied the crews seven 
 hours, we embarked on a small stream, running to- 
 wards the north-west, which carried us to the lake, 
 where Akaitcho proposed that we Bhould pass thewin- 
 ter. The officers ascended several of the loftiesl bills 
 in tlic course of the day, prompted by a natural 
 anxiety to examines the spot which was to be their 
 residence for many months. The prospect, however, 
 was not then the most agreeable, as (he borders of 
 
 the lake seemed to he scantily furnished with wood, 
 
 and that of a kind too small for the purposes ot 
 building. 
 
 We perceived the smoke of a distant fin whicb tin;
 
 In the An ins. 
 
 Indiana supposed had been made by Bome of the 1 
 ribbed tribe, who occasionally vi-it this pari 
 country. 
 
 Embarking al seven next morning, we paddli 
 the western extremity of the lake, and there found a 
 small river, which flows out of it to the B.W. To 
 avoid a strong rapid at its commencement, we made a 
 portage, and then crossed to the north Lank of the 
 river, where the Indians recommended that the winter 
 
 iblUhment should be erected, and we Boon found 
 that the situation they had chosen ; 1 all the 
 
 advantages we could have desired. Tin- trees w 
 numerous, and ol a far groater size than we had sup- 
 to be vest rday — some of the pines being 
 thirty or forty feel high, and two feet in diameter at 
 the root. We determined on placing the house on the 
 summit of the bank, which commands a beautiful 
 prospect of the surrounding country. The view in 
 fronl is bounded at the distance of three miles, by 
 round-backed hills : to the eastward ami westward lie 
 
 the Winter and round-rock Lakes, which are connect- 
 ed by the Winter River, whose banks are well clothed 
 with pines, and ornamented with a profusion of m 
 
 . lichens, and shrubs. 
 
 J n the afternoon we read divine service, and offered 
 our thanksgiving to the Almighty for his la bs in 
 having brought us thus far on our journey ; a duty
 
 132 Thirty Years 
 
 which we never neglected, when stationary on the sab- 
 bath. 
 
 The united length of the portages we have crossed, 
 since leaving Fort Providence, is twenty-one statute 
 miles and a half ; and as our men had to traverse 
 each portage four times, with a load of one hundred 
 and eighty pounds, and return three times light, they 
 walked in the whole upwards of one hundred and fifty 
 miles. The total length of our voyage from Chipew- 
 yan is five hundred and fifty three-miles.* 
 
 A fire was made on the south side of the river to 
 inform the chief of our arrival, which spreading be Co re 
 a strong wind, caught the whole wood, and we were 
 completely enveloped in a cloud of smoke for the three 
 following days. 
 
 On the next morning our voyagers were divided into 
 two parties, the one to cut the wood for the building 
 of a store house, and the other to fetch the meat as 
 fast as the hunters procured it. An interpreter was 
 sent with Keskarrah, the guide, to search for the In- 
 dians who had made the fire Been on Saturday, from 
 whom we might obtain some supplies of provi 
 
 Statute Ulloa, 
 
 * Stony and Slave Rivers 260 
 
 Slave Lake 107 
 
 fellow-Knife River I 
 
 between the source of the yellow- 
 Knife Ritei and Fort Enterprise ... 29.6 
 
 668
 
 the Arctic R 
 
 An Indian was al« I bo Akaitcho, with di- 
 
 rections for him to come^ither directly, and bring 
 whatever provision he had, as we were desirous of pro- , 
 ceeding, withonl delay, to th< • -Mine | 
 
 In the evening cur men brought in the can a 
 
 Beven reindeer, whieli two hunters had shot yi 
 
 day, and the women commenced drying the meal for 
 our journey. We also obtained a good Bupply i 
 from our nets to-day. 
 
 A heavy rain, on the 23d, prevented tin 1 men from 
 
 ither at the building, ni- going for meat ; 
 
 hut ..n the next day the weather v. . and they 
 
 renewed their labors. The thermometer, that day, 
 did not rise higher than 42°, and it fell to 31° before 
 midnight. On the morning "I' th" i!.jth, we wo 
 prised by some early symptoms of the approach of 
 winter ; the Bmall pools were frozen over, and a flock 
 
 i t'> the southward. In th" aftei 
 however. - me on, which afterwards changed into 
 
 rain, and the ice quickly disappeared. We Buffered 
 great anxiety all the next day respecting John 1 1 -i — 
 burn, who had -one to hunt before Bunrise on th. . 
 and 1" en absenl ever Bince, Aboul four hours after 
 his departure the wind changed, an 
 Boured every mark by which hi to tie 
 
 could he directed, and we thought it probable he had 
 been wandering in an opposite direction i" our situa-
 
 134 Thirty Years 
 
 tion, as the two hunters, who had been sent out to 
 look for him, returned at sunset without having seen 
 him. Akaitcho arrived with his party, and we were 
 greatly disappointed at finding they had stored up 
 only fifteen reindeer for us. St. Germain informed us, 
 that having heard of the death of the chiefs brother- 
 in-law, they had spent several days in bewailing his 
 loss, instead of hunting. We learned also, that the 
 decease of this man had caused another party of the 
 tribe, who had been sent by Mr. Wentzel to prepare 
 provision for us on the banks of the Copper-Mine 
 River, to remove to the shores of the Great Bear Lake, 
 distant from our proposed route. Mortifying as these 
 circumstances were, they produced less painful sensa- 
 tions than we experienced in the evening, by the re- 
 fusal of Akaitcho to accompany us in the proposed de- 
 scent of the Copper Mine River. When Mr. Wentzel, 
 by my direction, communicated to him my intention 
 of proceeding at once on that service, he desired a con- 
 ference with me upon the subject, which being imme- 
 diately granted, he began by stating, that the very 
 attempl would be rash and dangerous, as the weather 
 
 was cold, the leavea were falling, some geese had 
 
 passed to the southward, and the winter would shortly 
 set in ; and that, as he considered the lives of all who 
 went on such a journey would be forfeited, he neither 
 would go himself, nor permit his hunters to accompany
 
 In the ■ 718. L30 
 
 us. He Baid there was no wood within eleven d 
 march, during which time wa could not have any fire, 
 as the moss, which the Indiana use in their summer 
 
 ursions, would be too wei for burning, in coi 
 quence of the recent rains ; thai we should be forty 
 days in descending the Copper-Mine River, six oi 
 which would be expended in getting to its banks, and 
 that we might b I up by the ice in the next 
 
 moon ; and during the whole journey the party must 
 experience great Buffering for want of food, as the 
 reindeer had already left the river. 
 
 He was now reminded that these statements were 
 v< ry different from the account he had given, both at 
 Port Providence and on the route hither ; and that 
 up to this moment, we had been encouraged by Ids 
 conversation to expect that the party might descend 
 the Copper-Mine River, accompanied by the Indians, 
 lie replied, that at the former place he had been un- 
 acquainted with our slow mode of traveling, and that 
 the alteration, in his opinion, arose from the advai 
 of winter. 
 
 We now informed him, that we were pro\ 
 with instruments by which we could ascertain the 
 stat.- of the air and water, an 1 that we did n >t ima- 
 gine the winter I posed; how- 
 ever, we promised to return on discovering the first 
 change in the Beason. He was also told that all the
 
 136 Thirty Years 
 
 baggage beino; left behind, our canoes would now, of 
 course, travel infinitely more expeditiously than any 
 thing he had hitherto witnessed. Akaitcho appeared 
 to feel hurt, that we should continue to press the 
 matter further, and answered with some warmth : 
 " Well, I have said everything I can urge, to dissuade 
 you from going on this service, on which it seems, you 
 wish to sacrifice your own lives, as well as the Indians 
 who might attend you : however, if after all I have 
 said, you are determined to go, some of my young men 
 shall join the party, because it shall not be said, that 
 we permitted you to die alone after having brought 
 you hither ; but from the moment they embark in the 
 canoes, 1 and my relatives shall lament them as dead.'' 
 
 We could only reply to this forcible appeal, by 
 assuring him and the Indians who were seated around 
 him, that we felt the most anxious solicitude for the 
 safety of every individual, and that it was far from 
 our intention to proceed without considering every 
 argument for and against the proposed journey. 
 
 We in \t informed him, that it would be very de- 
 sirabl e the river at any rate, that we might 
 
 give some positive information about its situation and 
 
 size, in our next letters to the great chief; and that 
 
 we were very anxious to get on its banks for the pur- 
 
 of observing an eclipse of the sun, which we 
 
 ibed to him, and said would happen in a few
 
 /// M< Arctic li< gi 137 
 
 days. M .ril this communication with more 
 
 temper than the pi though he immedial 
 
 reason for his declining i<> go, that '• the 
 Indiana must now procure a sufficient quantity of 
 deer-skins for winter clothing lor thru, and 
 
 dresses for the Canadians, who would need them if 
 they hail to travel in the winter." Finding him 
 aver.-.' to j roi eed, and feeling, at the 
 
 rjtial his continuance with us was, not only to our 
 future bu •• o to our i 'he 
 
 winter ; I closed the i om »ti n here, inten Qg to 
 propose to him next morni e modification oi 
 
 plan, which might meet his approbation. S ion after 
 we were gone, however, he informed Mr. Wenl 
 with whom he was in the habit of speaking confi- 
 dentially, thai a his advice was n< glected, his pr< pence 
 was useless, and he Bhould, thet turn t i Fort 
 
 !' ividence with his hunters, after he had collec 
 Borne winter provision torus. Mr. Wentzel having 
 reported this to me, the night was passed in •. 
 
 iety, and after weighing all the arguments th.it 
 presented themselves to my mind, 1 ram.- reluctai 
 to tin' determination of relinquishing the intention "t* 
 ;■ any distance down tin- river this 
 The month of S pteml very 
 
 disagreeable weather. The temperature of the atm 
 phere ranged between 39 c and 31° during the first
 
 138 Thirty Years 
 
 three days, and that of the water in the river de- 
 creased from 49° to 44°. 
 
 Id the afternoon of September the 6 th, we removed 
 our tent to the summit of a hill, about three miles 
 distant, for the better observing the eclipse, which 
 was calculated to occur on tbe nest morning. We 
 were prevented, however, from witnessing it by a 
 heavy snow-storm, and the only observation we could 
 then make was to examine whether the temperature 
 of the atmosphere altered during the eclipse, but we 
 found that both the mercurial and spirit thermometers 
 remained steadily at 30° for a quarter of an hour 
 previous to its commencement, during its continuance, 
 and for half an hour subsequent to its termination ; 
 we remarked the wind increased very much, and the 
 snow fell in heavier flakes just after the estimated 
 time of its commencement. This boisterous weather 
 continued until three P.M., when the wind abated, 
 ami the snow changed to rain. 
 
 The men continued to work diligently at the house, 
 and by the 30th of September had nearly completed 
 
 i: for OUr reception, when a heavy fall of rain washed 
 
 t part, of the mud oil* the roof. This rain 
 
 was remarked by the Indians as unusual, after what 
 
 they had deemed so decided a commencemenl of winter 
 in the early part of ihe month. The mean temper- 
 ature for the month wan 33*4°, but the thermometer had 
 
 .is low jim 1 i on i ' ■ ; ■ r> ' )i0
 
 In the - ru. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 ( >:«,- the 6tb "l* ' > . the house bein leted, 
 
 we struck our tents, and removed into it. It \ 
 merely :i log building, fifty feel Long, and twenty-four 
 
 wide, divided into a hall, three bed-r ds, and a 
 
 kitchen. The walls and roof were plastered with 
 . . the doors laid with planks rudely squared with 
 the hatchet, and the windows closed with parchment 
 of deerekin. The day, which, from the coldnes 
 the weather, require^ to be tempered before the fire 
 with hoi wat.T, froze as it was daubed on, and after- 
 wards cracked in such a manner as to admit the wind 
 from every quarter ; yet, compared with tb 
 our new habitation appeared comfortable : and having 
 filled our capacious clay-built chimney witb 
 
 cheerful evening before the invigorating 
 blaze. The change was peculiarly beneficial to Pr. 
 Richardson, who having, in one of Ids excurei 
 incautiously laid down on the I f a hill 
 
 when heated with w a severe in-
 
 140 Thirty Years 
 
 flammatory sore throat, which became daily worse 
 whilst we remained in the tents, bnt began to amend 
 soon after he was enabled to confine himself to the 
 more equable warmth of the house. We took up our 
 abode at first on the floor, but our working party, who 
 had shewn such skill as house-carpenters, soon proved 
 themselves to be, with the same tools, the hatchet 
 and crooked knife, excellent cabinet-makers, and 
 daily added a table, a chair, or bedstead, to the com- 
 forts of our establishment. 
 
 On the 1st of December the sky was clear, a slight 
 appearance of stratus only being visible near the hori- 
 zon ; but a kind of snow fell at intervals in the fore- 
 noon, its particles so minute as to be observed only in 
 sunshine. Towards noon the snow became mere 
 apparent, and the two limbs of a prismatic arch were 
 visible^ one on each side of the sun near its place in 
 the heavens, the centre being deficient. We have 
 frequently observed this descent of minute icy spicuho 
 when the sky appears perfectly clear, and could even 
 perceive that its silent, but continued action, added 
 
 the snowy covering of the ground. 
 
 Baving reci ived one hundred balls from Fori Provi- 
 
 by 15i danger, we distributed them among the 
 
 Indians, informing the leader at the same time, that 
 
 idi no of so Large a party as his at the house, 
 
 amounting, with women and children, to forty souls,
 
 In the Arctic Regions. Ill 
 
 was producing a serious reduction in our Bto '; of 
 provisi 
 
 As ii may be interesting to the reader to kn >w how 
 we passed our time at thi i of the 3 ■. I ball 
 
 mention briefly, tint a considerable portion of it 1 
 occupied in writing up our journals. Borne oewspa- 
 pers ami magazines, that we had received fr m 1'.: - 
 land with <mr letters, were read again and again, ami 
 commented upon, at our meals ; an. I we often ea 
 
 1 ourselves with conjecturing the changes that 
 might take place- in the world before we could ! 
 from it again. Tin- probability of our receiving 
 ters, and the period of their arrival, were calculated to 
 We occasionally paid the woodmen a visit, 
 vv took a walk for a mile or two on the river. 
 
 In the evenings we joined the men in the hall, ami 
 took a pari in their games, which generally continued 
 ■{ late hour ; in Bhort, we never found the time to 
 hang heavy upon our hands ; and the peculiar occu- 
 pations of each of ti afforded them more em- 
 ployment than might a! . 1 
 ciliated the observations made on our route ; Mr. 
 
 ll,,od protracted the charts, and made those drawings 
 of birds, plants, and tMies, which cannot appear in 
 this work, lint winch have been theadmirati >n of every 
 
 one who has sen them. Each of the party se&ulous- 
 
 ly and separately recorded their observations on the
 
 142 Thirty Years 
 
 aurora, and Dr. Richardson contrived to obtain from 
 under the snow specimens of most of the lichens in the 
 neighborhood, and to make himself acquainted with 
 the mineralogy of the surrounding country. 
 
 The Sabbath was always a day of rest with us ; the 
 woodmen were required to provide for the exigencies 
 of that day on Saturday, and the party were dressed in 
 their best attire. Divine service was regularly per- 
 formed, and the Canadians attended, and behaved 
 with great decorum, although they were all Roman 
 Catholics, and but little acquainted with the language 
 in which the prayers were read. I regretted much that 
 we had not a French prayer-book, but the Lord's 
 Prayer and Creed were always read to them in their 
 own language. 
 
 Our diet consisted almost entirely of the reindeer 
 meat, varied twice a week by fish, and occasionally by 
 a little Hour, but we had no vegetables of any descrip- 
 tion. On the Sunday mornings we drank a cup of 
 late, bul our greatest luxury wan tea (without 
 BUgar), of which we regularly partook twice a day. 
 Willi reindeer's fat, and strips of cotton shirts, wo 
 formed candles; and Eepburn acquired considerable 
 skill in the manufacture of soap, from wood ashes, tat, 
 and salt. The formation of soup was considered as 
 rather a myi fcenoua operation by our Canadians, and, 
 in their hands, was always supposed to fail if a woman
 
 718. 
 
 approached the kettle in which the ley was boilL 
 Such an- our simple domestic details. 
 
 On the 30th, two hunters came from the leader, to 
 convey ammunition to him, as Boon as onr men should 
 bring it from Fori Provide] 
 
 The men, at this time, coated the walls oi 
 house on the outside, with a thin mixture of clay and 
 water, which formed a crust of ice, that, 6 
 days, proved impervious to the air ; thedr the 
 
 atmosphere, however, was such, thai I a a short 
 
 time evaporated, and gave admissi the wind 
 
 I : is a gem ral custom at the forts to f 
 this sort of coating to the walls at Christmas time. 
 When it was gone we attempted to remedy itsd< I 
 by heaping up Bnow against the walls. 
 
 . This morning our men collected, and greeted us 
 tomary salutation on the commencement 
 of the New Year. That they might enjoy a holiday, 
 they had yesterday collected double the usual quantity 
 oi ore-wood, and we anxiously expected the arrival of 
 the men froi Providence, with Bome addition 
 
 their comforts. We were led the more readily to i 
 for their arrival before the even' a knew that 
 
 every voyager uses his utmosl endear 
 upon, or previous to, th an, that he may 
 
 partake of the wonted festivities, [tformstheth i 
 of their conversation for months before and at;, r the
 
 144 Thirty Years 
 
 period of its arrival On the present occasion we 
 could only treat them with a little flour and fat ; 
 these were both considered as great luxuries, but still 
 the feast was defective from the want of ruin, although 
 we promised them a little when it should arrive. 
 
 The early part of January proved mild, the ther- 
 mometer rose to 20° above zero, and we were surpris- 
 ed by the appearance of a kind of damp fog approach- 
 ing very nearly to rain. The Indians expressed their 
 astonishment at this circumstance, aud declared the 
 present to be one of the warmest winters they had ever 
 experienced. Some of them reported that it had ac- 
 tually rained in the woody parts of the country. In 
 the latter part of the month, however, the thermome- 
 ter again descended to — 49°, and the mean temper- 
 ature for the month proved to be — 15.G°. Owing to 
 the fogs that obscured the sky, the aurora was visible, 
 only upon eighteen nights in the month. 
 
 ()n the 15th seven of our men arrived from Fort 
 Providence with two kegs of rum, one barrel of pow- 
 der, sixty pounds of ball, two rolls of tobacco, and 
 some clothing. They had keen twenty-one days on 
 their march from Slave Lake, and the labor they nn- 
 derwenl was sufficiently evinced by their sledge-collars 
 having worn out the shoulders of their coats. Their 
 loads weighed from sixty to ninety p. muds eacl 
 , in i\, ■ of their bedding and provisions, which .it start-
 
 In the A rile Regions. 145 
 
 ing must have been at leasl as much mora We 
 much rejoiced at their arrival, and proceeded forthwith 
 to pierce the spirit cask, and issue to each of the 
 household the porti >n of rum which had been promis- 
 ed to them on the first day of the year. The Bpirits, 
 which v if, were frozen, but after standing at 
 
 the fire for Borne time, they flowed out of the consis- 
 tency of honey. The temperature of the liquid, even 
 in this State, was BO low as instantly to convert into 
 which cond ' on the Burface of th • 
 dran 3 also adhered to the g] 
 
 and would, doubtless, have I dily frozen had 
 
 (hey been kept in contact with it, yet each of tie' 
 voy allowed his dram without experiencing the 
 
 slightest inconvenience, or complaining even of the 
 tooth-acft. 
 
 The temperature in February was considerably low- 
 er than in th<' preceding month, although not so low 
 i I December, tie- mean being — 25.3°. The great- 
 est temperature was. 1° above zero, and thelowi - .~>\^ 
 
 below. 
 
 ( >n th<> 5th of March thr- people returned from Slave 
 
 Lake, bringing th" remainder of our stores, consisting 
 ofa flour, thirty-six pound ir, a roll ol 
 
 tobacco, and forty pounds of tobacco. 1 la 
 
 letter from Mr. Weeks, wherein he denied that, he had 
 
 ever circulated any reports to om disadvantage ; and 
 
 7
 
 146 Tliiriy Years 
 
 stated that lie had done every thing in his power to 
 assist us, and even discouraged Akaitcho from leaving 
 us, when he had sent him a message, saying, that he 
 wished to do so, if he was sure of being well received 
 at Fort Providence. 
 
 On the 29th Akaitcho arrived at the house, having 
 been sent for to make some arrangements respecting 
 the procuring of provision, and tha£ we might learn 
 from him what his sentiments were with regard to ac- 
 companying us on our future journey. Next morning 
 we had a conference, which I commenced by shewing 
 him the charts and drawings that were prepared to be 
 sent to England, and explaining fully our future in- 
 tentions. He appeared much pleased at this mark of 
 attention, and, when his curiosity was satisfied, began 
 his speech by saying, that " although a vast number 
 of idle rumors had been floating about the barren 
 grounds during the winter," yet he was convinced that 
 the representations thai had been made tohimal Tort 
 Providence regarding the purport of the Expedition 
 were perfectly correct. I next pointed out to him the 
 Bsity of our proceeding with as little delay as pos- 
 sible (luring the short period of the year that was fit 
 for our operations, and 1 1 1 - • * to do bo it was requisite 
 should ha ipply of provisions at starting. 
 
 On the 7th of May, Dr. Richardson returned from 
 his excursion. !!<• informed mo thai the reindeer were
 
 In //'.■ Arctic Regions. 117 
 
 in advancing to the northward, bat thai the leader 
 
 had been joined by several families of old j pie, 
 
 thai the daily consumption of provision at the Indian 
 tents was consequently great This information exci- 
 ted Borne painful apj rehensions of being very Bcantily 
 provided when the period for our departure should arrive. 
 
 The weather in the beginning of May was fine and 
 wanii. On the -M».s ome patches of sandy ground □ 
 the house were cleared of snow. On the 7th the sides 
 of the hills began to appear bare, and on the Sth a 
 large b iuse fly was seen. This interesting event 
 spread cheerfulness through our i and font 
 
 a topic of conversation for tin- resl of tin- day. 
 
 Dr. Richardson and Mr. Back having visited the 
 country to the northward ft' the slave Bock, and 
 reported that they thought we might travel over it, 
 1 signified my intention of Bending tin- first party nil 
 on Monday the 4th of June. 1 was anxious to get the 
 Indians t>> move "ii before, hut they lingered aboul 
 the house, evidently with the intention of jacking up 
 such articl s as we might deem unni to take. 
 
 When Akaitcho was made acquainted with my pur- 
 of sending away a party of men, he cm!'- t<> in- 
 form ni" that he would appoint two hunters to accom- 
 pany them, and at the s.nii-- time requested that Dr. 
 Richardson, or as he called him, the Medicine Ch 
 
 mighl be sent with his OH n hand.
 
 148 Thirty Years 
 
 On the 7th the wind changing to the southward, 
 dispersed the clouds which had obscured the sky for 
 several days, and produced a change of temperature 
 under which the snow rapidly disappeared. The 
 thermometer rose to 73°, many flies came forth, mus- 
 ouitoes shewed themselves for the first time, and one 
 swallow made its appearance. We were the more 
 gratified with these indications of summer, that St. 
 Germain was enabled to commence upon the repair oi 
 the canoes, and before night had completed the two 
 which had received the least injury. Augustus killed 
 two deer to-day. 
 
 On the 10th the dip of the magnetic needle being 
 observed, shewed a decrease of 22' 44", since last 
 autumn. The repairs of the third canoe were finished 
 this evening. 
 
 The snow was now confined to the bases of the hills, 
 and our Indian hunter told us the season was early. 
 The operations of nature, however, seemed to us very 
 lardy. We woe eager to be gone, and dreaded the 
 lapse of summer, before the Indians would allow it 
 had begun. 
 
 On the 11th the geese and ducks had left the 
 ricinity of Tort Enterprize, and proceeded t<> the 
 
 northward. Some young ravens and whiskey-johns 
 
 made their appearance at this time. 
 On the 12th, Winter River was pearly cleared of
 
 /// the An >»*. 14'J 
 
 ice, and on the L3th the men returned, having Left Dr. 
 Richardson on the borders of Point Lake. Dr. Rich- 
 ardson Informed me by letter that the Bnow was deep< r 
 
 in many parts near his encampmenl than it had bei □ 
 at any time last winter near Fort Enterprize, and 
 that the Lee on Point Lake had scarcely begun to 
 decay. Although the voyagers were much fatigued 
 
 on their arrival, and had eaten nothing for thi 
 
 twenty-four hours, they were very cheerful, and i \- 
 1 a desire to start with the remainder of the 
 \t morning.
 
 150 Thirty Years 
 
 CHAPTEE VII 
 
 juneu ^ ie trains for the canoes having been fin- 
 ished during the night, the party attached to them 
 commenced their journey at ten this morning. Each 
 canoe was dragged by four men assisted by two dogs. 
 They took the route of Winter Lake, with the inten- 
 tion of following, although more circuitous, the wafer- 
 course as far as practicable, it being safer for the 
 canoes than traveling over land. After their de- 
 parture, the remaining stores, the instruments, and 
 our small stock of dried meal, amounting only to 
 eighty pounds, were distributed equally among Hep- 
 burn, three Canadians, and the two Esquimaux ; with 
 this party and two Indian hunters, we quitted Fort 
 Enterprise, most sincerely rejoicing that the long- 
 wished for day had arrived, when we were f<> proceed 
 towards the final object of the Expedition. 
 
 We Left in "lie of the rooms a box, containing a 
 journal of the occurrences up to this date, the charts, 
 and some drawings, which was to he conveyed to Fort
 
 ]n the An >n8. 
 
 ipewyan by Mr. Wenteel, od his return f. 
 
 . and from thence to 1 .land. T 
 
 room was blocked up, ami, by the advice of Mr. 
 Wentzel, a drawing representing a man holdin 
 dagger in a threatening attitude, was affixed to 
 door, to deter any Indians from breaking it open. 
 We* directed our coarse towards the Dog-rib K 
 )>ut as our companions wire loaded with the weight of 
 near one hundred and eighty pounds ach, we 
 
 jsjLty proceeded at a slow The day was 
 
 extremely warm, and the musquitoes, whose att i 
 
 had hitherto been feeble, Issued forth in swarms from 
 
 the marshes, and w»re very tormenting. Saving 
 
 walked live miles we encamped near a small cluster of 
 pines about two miles from the Dog-rib Bock. 1 
 canoe party had not been Been since they set out. 
 Our hunters went forward to Marten hake, intending 
 
 to wait for us at a place where two thcr were de- 
 posited. At nine P.M. the temperature of the air 
 
 We resumed our march at an early hour, 
 :al lakes whieh lay in 
 
 iee enabled the men to drag their burd< 
 
 formed of b ticks and ■•' horns, with m i 
 
 they could carry them on their backs. We were k 
 
 constantly wet by this operation, as the [ce had 
 
 broken near the shoivs of tl: . hut this inoon-
 
 152 Thirty Years 
 
 venience was not regarded, as the day was unusually 
 warm; the temperature at two P. M. being 82^°. 
 At Marten Lake we joined the canoe party, and en- 
 camped with them. We had the mortification of 
 learning from our hunters that the meat they had put 
 en cache here, had been destroyed by the wolverenes, 
 and we had in consequents, to furnish the supper 
 from our scanty stock of dried meat. The wind 
 changed from S.E. to N.E. in the evening, and the 
 weather became very cold, the thermometer being 43° 
 at nine P.M. The few dwarf birches we could collect 
 afforded fire insufficient to keep us warm, and we 
 retired under the covering of our blankets as soon as 
 the supper was despatched. The N.E. breeze ren- 
 dered the night so extremely cold, that we procured 
 but little sleep, having neither fire nor shelter, for 
 though we carried our tents, we had been forced to 
 leave the tent poles which we could not now replace ; 
 » we therefore gladly recommenced the journey at five 
 in the morning, and traveled through the remaining 
 part of the lake on the ice. Its surface being quite 
 smooth, the canoes were dragged along expeditiously 
 by the dogs, and the rest of the party had to walk 
 very quirk to keep pace with them, which occasioned 
 fchem in gel many heavy falls. By the time we had 
 reached the i ad of the lake, the wind had increased to 
 a perfect gale, and the atmosphere was so cold that
 
 In the An ' '■ //• g 'ona. \:,:> 
 
 ■ onld not proceed with the canoes farther with 
 the risk of breaking the bark and seriously injuring 
 them, we therefore crossed Winter River in them, and 
 put up on a ridge of Band hills in a well sheltered 
 
 place. But as the stock of provision was scanty, 
 determined on proceeding as quirk as possible, and 
 leaving the canoe party under the charge of Mr. 
 Wentzel. We parted from them in the afternoon, 
 and first directed our course towards a range of hills, 
 where n pected to find Antonio Fontano, who I 
 
 trated from ns in the morning. En crossing to- 
 wards thr>c hills I fell through the ice into tl 
 with my bundle on my shoulders, hut was soon extri- 
 cated withoul receiving any injury; and Mr. Back, 
 who left us to go in Bearch of the straggler, met with 
 a similar accident in the evening. We put up on a 
 ridge of sand hills, where we found some pines, and 
 made a large fire to apprise Mr. Back and Fontan 
 our situation. St. Germain having killed a deer in 
 *the afternoon, we received an acceptable supply of 
 meat The nighl was stormy and very cold. 
 
 At live next morning our men were Bent in different 
 directions after our absent companions, hut 
 weather was foggy, we despaired of finding them unl 
 they should chan ar the muskets our people 
 
 were desired to fire. Tiny returned, however, at ten, 
 bringing intelligence of them. I went immediately 
 
 7
 
 154 Thirty Years 
 
 with Heburn to join Mr. Back, and directed Mr. Hood 
 to proceed with the Canadians, and halt with them at 
 a spot where the hunters had killed a deer. Though 
 Mr. Back was much fatigued, he set off with me im- 
 mediately, and in the evening we rejoined our friends 
 on the borders of the Big Lake. The Indians inform- 
 ed us that Fontano only remained a few hours with 
 them, and then continued his journey. We had to 
 oppose a violent gale and frequent snow storms 
 through the day, which unseasonable weather caused 
 the temperature to descend below the freezing point 
 this evening. The situation of our encampment being 
 bleak, and our fuel stunted green willows, we passed 
 a very cold and uncomfortable night. 
 
 June 18. — Though the breeze was moderate this 
 morning, the atmosphere was piercingly keen. When 
 on the point of starting, we perceived Mr. Wentzel's 
 party coming, and awaited his arrival t<> Learn whether 
 the canoes had received any injury during the severe 
 weather of yesterday. Finding that they had nut, we 
 proceeded to get upon the ice on the lake, which could 
 not be effected without walking up to the waist in 
 water, for some distance from it3 borders. We bad 
 not the command of our feel In this situation, ami the 
 men fell often; poor Junius broke through tie- ice 
 with his heavy burden on his back, but fortunately 
 
 was not hurl.
 
 In the An ms. 155 
 
 Thia lake is i stensive, and large arms branch from 
 its main course indifferent directions. At thi k 
 we crossed the projecting points of land, and on 
 i >ii had to wade as before, which so wearied ■ 
 thai we rejoiced when we reached its north 
 and encamped, though our resting-place v, 
 rock. We had the happiness of finding Fontano at 
 this place. The poor fellow had passed the thn i 
 
 ceding days without tasting food, and was exh , 
 
 by anxiety and hunger. His Bufferings were, cod 
 ed to have been a sufficient punishment for his impru- 
 dent conduct in separating from us, and we only ad- 
 monished him to be more cautious in future. 
 
 Saving received information that tin- hunters had 
 killed a deer, we sent three men to fetch the i 
 which was distributed between our party, and the 
 canoe m< d who had been encamped near to us. The 
 thermometer at three P.M. was 4G°, and at nine 34 . 
 
 We commenced tin- following day by crossing a 
 lake about lour miles in Length, and then passed over 
 a Succession of rugged hills lor nearly th.' same dis- 
 tance. The men being anxious to reach some pine 
 
 ; . which they had seen on their former JOD 
 
 walked a i[iiii B LOUgh they were Buffering from 
 
 swelled legs and rheumatic pains ; we could not, how- 
 ever, attain the desired point, and therefore encampe t 
 on the declivity of a hill, which sheltered us from the
 
 156 Thirty Years 
 
 wind ; and used the reindeer moss for fuel, which af- 
 forded us more warmth than we expected. We per- 
 ceived several patches of snow yet remaining on the 
 surrounding hills. The thermometer varied to-day 
 between 55° and 45°. 
 
 On the 20th of June we began our march by cross- 
 ing a small lake, not without much risk, as the sur- 
 face of the ice was covered with water to the depth of 
 two feet, and there were many holes into which we 
 slipped, in spite of our efforts to avoid them. A few 
 of the men being fearful of attempting the traverse 
 with their heavy loads, walked round the eastern end 
 of the lake. The parties met en the sandy ridge, 
 which separates the streams that fall into Winter 
 Lake from those that flow to the northward ; and hero 
 we killed three deer. Near the base of this ridge we 
 crossed a Bmall but rapid stream, in which there is a 
 remarkable cascade of about fifty feet descent. Some 
 Indians joined us here, and gave us information re- 
 specting the situation of Dr. Richardson's tent, which 
 our hunters considered was sufficient for our guidance, 
 and therefore proceeded as quickly as they could. 
 We inarched a few miles farther in the evening, and 
 encamped among some pines \ but the comfort of a 
 
 good lire did not oompi Dsate for the torment we Buf- 
 fered from the Q08l of musquitoes we found at this spot 
 The temperature was 52°.
 
 In th Arctic Regions. I 57 
 
 We Bel off next morning al a very early hour. The 
 men took the course of Point Lake, that they mi 
 th. it bIi dgeSj bul the I the Qea 
 
 route by Land to Dr. Richardson's tent, which we 
 reached al eleven A. M. It was Bituated on the v. 
 era side of an arm of the lake, and near to the part 
 through which the Copper-Mine River runs. ( >ur men 
 arrived soon after us, and in the evening Mr. Wentzel 
 and his party, with tin- canoes in excellenl condition, 
 much jaded by their fatiguing journey, and 
 Beveral were lame from Bwellings of th..- lower extrem- 
 
 \. The ice on tip- Lake waa ^-lill six or seven feet 
 thick, and there was no appearance of its decay except 
 near the ; and as it was evident that, by remain- 
 ing here until it Bhould be removed, we might Lose 
 every prospeel "I' bu< B8 in our undertaking, I deter- 
 mined mi dragging our Btores along its surface, until 
 we should come to a part of the river where we could 
 embark ; and directions were given this evening for 
 each man to prepare a train fur the' conveyance of his 
 
 ion cf the Btores. I may remark here, as a j ■: 
 
 of (] of radiation from the earth in 
 
 melting the ice, thai the Largest holes in the i 
 always formed at the base of the high and steep el ills, 
 which abound on the borders of this lake. 
 
 We found Akaitcho and the hunti rs encamped here, 
 but their i'amili' s, and the rest of the tribe, had gone
 
 158 Thirty Years 
 
 off two days before to the Beth-see-to, a large lake to 
 the northward, where they intended passing the sum- 
 mer. Long-legs and Keskarrah had departed, to de- 
 sire the Hook to collect as much meat as he could 
 against our arrival at his lodge. We were extremely 
 distressed to learn from Dr. Eichardson, that Akaitcho 
 and his party had expended all the ammunition they 
 had received at Fort Enterprize, without having con- 
 tributed any supply of provision. The Doctor had, 
 however, through the assistance of two hunters he 
 kept with him, prepared two hundred pounds of dried 
 meat, which was now our sole dependence for the 
 journey. On the following morning I represented to 
 Akaitcho that we had been greatly disappointed by 
 his conduct, which was so opposite to the promise of 
 exertion he had made, on quitting Fort Enterprize. 
 He offered many excuses, but finding they were not 
 satisfactory, he admitted that the greater part of the 
 ammunition had been given to those who accompanied 
 the women to the Beth-see-to, and piomised to behave 
 better in future. I then told him, that I intended in 
 future to give them ammunition only in proportion to 
 the meat which was brought in, and that we should 
 commence upon that, plan, by supplying him with 
 a balls, and the hunters with ten each. 
 The number of our hunters was now reduced to 
 five, as two of the most active declined going any fur*
 
 /// the Arc t'< //- giona. 1 59 
 
 ther, their father, who thought himself dying, having 
 solicited them to remain and close his eyes. Tl 
 five were furnished with ammunition, and Bent for- 
 ward to hunt on the Bouth border of the lake, with 
 directions to place any meat they might procure near 
 to the edge of the lake, and Bel up marks to guide us 
 to the Bpots. Akaitcho, his brother, the guide, and 
 three other men, remained to accompany us. We 
 were much surprised to perceive an extraordinary dif- 
 oce in climate in so .short an advance to the north- 
 ward as fifty miles. The Bnow here was lying in 1 . 
 patches on the hills. The dwarf-birch and willows 
 were only just beginning to open their buds, which 
 bad bursl forth al Fori Enterprize many days previous 
 or departure. Vegetation Beemed to be three wi eks 
 or a month later here than at that place. We had 
 heavy Bhowers of rain through the night of the 22d, 
 which melted the Bnow, and visibly wasted the ice. 
 
 <)n the 23d, the men were busily employed in mak- 
 ing tin ir trains, arid in pounding the meat for pem- 
 mican. The arrangements being completed, we 
 purposed commencing our journey next morning, but 
 the weather was too Btormy to admit of our venturing 
 upon the lake with the canoes. Jn the afternoon a 
 heavy fall of snow took place, which was succeeded by 
 .sleet and rain. The north-east gale continued, but 
 the thermometer rose to 39°.
 
 160 Thirty Years 
 
 June 25. — The wind having abated during the night, 
 we prepared for starting at an early hour. The three 
 canoes were mounted on sledges, and nine men were 
 appointed to conduct them, having the assistance of 
 two dogs to each canoe. The stores and provisions 
 were distributed equally among the rest of our men, 
 except a few small articles which the Indians carried. 
 The provision consisted of only two bags of pemmi- 
 can, two of pounded meat, five of suet, and two small 
 bundles of dried provision, together with fresh meat 
 sufficient for our supper at night. It was gratifying 
 to witness the readiness with which the men prepared 
 for and commenced the journey, which promised to 
 be so very laborious, as each of them had to drag 
 upwards of one hundred and eighty pounds on his 
 sledge. 
 
 Our course led down the main channel of the lake, 
 which varied in breadth from half a mile to three 
 mi^s ; but we proceeded at a slow pace, as the snow 
 whirl) fell last night, and still lay 'on the lake, very 
 much impeded the sledges. Many extensive anus 
 branched oil' on the north side of this channel, and it 
 was bounded on the south by a chain of lofty islands. 
 The hills on both Bides rose to the heighl of six hun- 
 dred or Beven hundred feet, and high steep cliffs arc 
 Dumerons. Clusters of pines were occasionally 
 
 in the valleys. We put up, at eight 1 MM -, in a snot
 
 I n i ' • A , • I '■ // 161 
 
 which afforded as but b few twiga for fuel The party 
 was much fatigued, and Beveral ot the men were af- 
 d by an inflammation on the inside of the thigh, 
 attended with hardness and swelling. The distai 
 made to-day was six miles. 
 
 We Btarted at ten next morning. The day was ex- 
 tremely hot, and the men were soon jaded ; their la; 
 
 ■ 1 very much, and some not previously af- 
 q to complain. The dogs too Bhewed 
 sympton it weakness, and oneofthem stretch- 
 
 ed himself obstinately on the ice, and was 1 to 
 
 be i from the harness. Under these circum- 
 
 stances we were compelled to encamp at an early hour, 
 having come only four miles. The Bufferings of the 
 pie in this early stage of our journey were truly 
 discouraging to them, and very distressing to us, wl 
 situation was comparatively easy. I, therefore, deter- 
 mined on having the third canoe, which had been 
 principally carried to provide againsl any accident 
 happening to the others. By this we gained tl 
 men, to Lighten the loads of those who were m 
 
 lame, and an additional dog for each of the Other I i- 
 
 It was accordingly properly secured on a b1 
 erected for the purpose near the encampment. Dried 
 I for Bupper, but in the i 
 
 oing the Indians killed two deer, which were imme- 
 diately sent lor.
 
 162 Thirty Years 
 
 The channel of the lake through which we had pass- 
 ed to-day was bounded on both sides by islands of 
 considerable height, presenting bold and rugged 
 scenery. We were informed by our guide, that a large 
 body of the lake lies to the northward of along island 
 which we passed. 
 
 Another deer was killed next morning, but as the 
 men breakfasted ofT it before they started, the addi- 
 tional weight was not materially felt. The burthens 
 of the men being considerably lightened by the ar- 
 rangements of last evening, the party walked at the 
 rate of one mile and three-quarters an hour until the 
 afternoon, when our pace was slackened, as the sur- 
 face of the ice was more rough, and our lame com- 
 panions felt their sores very galling. At noon we 
 passed a deep bay on the south side, which is said to 
 receive a river. Throughout the day's inarch the 
 hills (in each side of the lake bore a strong resem- 
 blance, in height and form, to those about Fort En- 
 terprise. We encamped on the north main shore, 
 among some spruce trees, having walked eight miles 
 and a half. Three or four iish were caught with lines 
 through holes, which the water had worn in the ice. 
 
 We perceived a Blight westerly currenl ai (hose places. 
 
 It rained heavily dining the night, and this was 
 
 succeeded by a dense fog on the morning of the28th. 
 
 Bi ing short of provisions we commenced our journey,
 
 /// tht An ' '■ R I '>'■'> 
 
 h the points of land were qo< discernible beyond 
 a Bhorl di the ice, being honey- 
 
 combed by th rains, presented innumerable 
 
 sharp points, which tore our Bhoes, and lacerated the 
 
 • every step. The j rd . marked their 
 
 path with their blood. 
 
 In the evening the atmosphere became clear, and, 
 at live P.M., we reached the rapid by which Point 
 > communicates with Bed- B rapid 
 
 is only *>ne hundred yards wide, and we were much 
 disappointed at rinding the Copper-Jiine River Buch 
 ;m inconsideral im. The can ended the 
 
 rapid, but the i were carried across the penin- 
 
 sula, and placed again on the Bledges, as the next lake 
 was still frozen. We passed an extensive arm, 
 branching to the eastward, and encamped just below 
 it, on the western hank, among spruce pines, having 
 walked six miles of direct distance. The rolled Btones 
 on the beach arc principally red clay slate, hence its 
 Indian appellation, which we have retained. 
 
 We continued our journey at the usual hour next 
 morning. At noon the variation v, . ved to be 
 
 Our attention was afterwards directed to 
 Borne pine branche 
 
 ed to he mark- placed by our hunters, to guide n> t>> 
 the spot where they had deposited I i two 
 
 small deer. This supply was very b< as id ible, and the
 
 164 Thirty Years 
 
 men cheerfully dragged the additional weight. Akait- 
 cho, judging from the appearance of the meat, thought 
 it had been placed here three days ago, and that the 
 hunters were considerably in advance. We put up at 
 six P.M., near the end of the lake, having come twelve 
 miles and three-quarters, and found the channel open 
 by which it is connected with the Rock-nest Lake. A 
 river was pointed out, bearing south from our encamp- 
 ment, which is said to rise near Great Marten Lake. 
 Red-rock Lake is in general narrow, its shelving banks 
 are well clothed with wood, and even the hills, which 
 attain an elevation of four hundred or five hundred 
 feet, are ornamented, half way up, with stunted 
 pines. 
 
 On June 30, the men having gummed the canoes, 
 embarked with their burdens to descend the river ; 
 but we accompanied the Indians about live miles 
 a neck of land, when we also embarked, The 
 river was about two hundred yards wide, and its 
 course being uninterrupted, we cherished a sanguine 
 hope of now getting on more speedily, until we per- 
 ceived that the waters of Rock-nest Lake were still 
 bound by ice, and thai recourse must, agaiu be had 
 to the sledges. The ice was much decayed, and we 
 were exposed to great risk of breaking through in 
 making the traverse. In one part we bad to cross an 
 open channel in the canoes, and in another were com-
 
 In (hi An tic It' :/>' 165 
 
 polled to quit the lake, and make a portage along tl 
 land. When the party had got upon the in, 
 
 oar guide evinced much uncertainty as to the roul 
 Be first directed as towards the west end of the lake ; 
 but when we had nearly gained that point, he discov- 
 ered a remarkable rock to the north-east, named by 
 the Indians the Rock-nest, and then recollected that 
 the Biver ran at il Our course was immedial 
 
 ly changed to that direction, but the traverse we had 
 then to make was more dangerous than the form srone. 
 ked under us at every Bt< p, and the party 
 were obi eparate then idely to pre\ 
 
 accidents. We landed at the first point we o>uld ap- 
 proach, but having found an open channel close to the 
 shore, we were obliged to ferry the goods across on 
 pieces of ice. The fresh meat being expended, we had 
 to make another inroad on our pounded meat. The 
 evening was very warm, and the musquitoea numeroua 
 A Large fire waa made to apprise the hunters of our 
 advance. The Bcenery of Rock-nest Lake is pictu- 
 resque, its Bhorea are rather ! pt at the Rock'a- 
 
 t, and tv. • three emin< nces on the eastern Bide. 
 
 The only wood is the pine, which is twenty or thirty 
 feet high, and about one foot in diameter. Our dis- 
 tance to-day was H\ mil 
 
 July 1. — Our guide directed ua to proceed towards 
 adeep bay on the north vide of the lake, where he
 
 166 Thirty Years 
 
 supposed we should find the river. In consequence of 
 the bad state of the ice, we employed all the different 
 modes of traveling we had previously followed in at- 
 taining this place ; and, in crossing a point of land, 
 had the misfortune to lose one of the dogs, which set 
 off in puisuit of some reindeer. Arriving at the bay, 
 w r e only found a stream that fell into it from the 
 north-east, and looked in vain for the Copper-Mine 
 River. This circumstance confused the guide, and he 
 confessed that he was now doubtful of the proper 
 route ; we, therefore, halted, and despatched him, 
 with two men, to look for the river from the top of the 
 high hills near the Nest-rock. During this delay a 
 Blight injury was repaired, which one of the canoes had 
 received. We were here amused by the interesting 
 ppectacle of a wolf chasing two reindeer on the ice. 
 Tin' pursuer being alarmed at the sight of our men, 
 gave up tin' chase when near to the hindmost, much to 
 • nil- regret, for we were calculating upon the chance of 
 sharing in his capture. 
 
 A I four P.M. our men returned, witli the agreeable 
 information that they had seen the river flowing at the 
 base of the Rock-nest. The canoes and stores were 
 immediately placed on the ice, and dragged thither ; 
 we then embarked, bu1 Boon had to cut through a bar- 
 rier of drifl ice thai blocked up the way. We after- 
 descended two strong rapids, and encamped
 
 Iii the Arctic Regii 1«;7 
 
 near to the discharge of a Bmall stream which flows 
 from an adjoining lake. The Copper-Mine River, at 
 tiiis point, is abont two hundred yards wide, and ten 
 feet deep, and flows very rapidly over a rocky bottom. 
 The scenery of its banks is picturesque, the hills 
 • to the water-side, and are well covered with 
 . and the Burface of the rocks is richly orna- 
 1 with lichens. Tic Indians say tli.it the same 
 kind of country prevails as for as Mackenzie's River 
 in this parallel ; hut that the land to the eastward is 
 perfectly barren. Akaitcho and one of the Indians 
 killed two deer, which were immediately sent for. 
 Two of the hunters arrived in the night, and we 
 learned that their companions, instead of being in 
 advance, as we supposed, were Btaying at the place 
 where we first found the river open. They had only 
 seen our lircs last evening, and had sent to examine 
 who we were. The circumstance of having [ 
 them was very vexatious, as they had three deer > ,, 
 
 at their encampment. Eowever, an Indian was 
 sent tod. .-ire those who remained to join us, and bring 
 
 the meat. 
 
 We embarked at nine A. 31. on July 2nd, and 
 
 tided a succ ssion Oi rapids for three 
 
 miles. \\'e wt ire along with extraordinary 
 
 rapidity, Bhooting over large Btones, upon which a 
 
 single stroke would have been destructive to the
 
 168 Thirty Years 
 
 canoes ; and we were also in danger of breaking them, 
 from the want of the long poles which lie along their 
 bottoms and equalize their cargoes, as they plunged 
 very much, and on one occasion the first canoe was 
 almost filled with the waves. But there was no re- 
 ceding after we had once launched into the stream, 
 and our safety depended on the skill and dexterity 
 of the bowmen and steersmen. The banks of the 
 river here are rocky, and the scenery beautiful ; con- 
 sisting of gentle elevations and dales wooded to the 
 edge of the stream, and flanked on both sides at the 
 distance of three or four miles by a range of round- 
 backed barren hills, upwards of six hundred feet high. 
 At the foot of the rapids the high lands receded to a 
 greater distance, and the river flowed with a more 
 gentle current, in a wider channel, through a level 
 and open country consisting of alluvial sand. In one 
 place the passage was blocked up by drift ice, still 
 covered to some depth with snow. A channel for the 
 canoes was made for some way with the hatchets and 
 poles ; but on reaching the more compact, part wo 
 wen; under the aecessity of transporting the canoes 
 and cargoes across it ; an operation of much hazard, 
 as tlic snow concealed the numerous holes which the 
 water had made in the ice. This expansion of the 
 river being mistaken by the guide fur a, lake, whieb 
 he spoke of us the last on our ionic to the sea, we
 
 In the Arctic Begi 
 
 Bupposed lli.it we should have no more ice to cross, 
 and therefore encamped after passing through it, I t 
 the purpose of fitting the c moes properly for the voj- 
 
 mdto provide poles, which are no1 onlyneo 
 to strengthen them whin placed in the bottom, but 
 ess< otially requisite for the safe management of them 
 in dangerous rapids. The guide began afterwards to 
 douol whether the lake he meant was not further on, 
 and h" was sent with two m< □ to examine into the 
 fact, who returned in the evening with the informa- 
 low us, but that there was an open 
 channel through it. This day was very sultry, - 
 peared in flower. 
 The men were employed in repairing their 
 a late hour, and commenced very early next morning, 
 as we were desirous of availing ourselves of ev< ry | ai I 
 of this favorable weather for their operations. Th i 
 hunters arrived in the course of the night It ap- 
 peared that the dog which escaped from us two days 
 ame into the vicinity of their encampment, 
 howling piteously ; Beeing him without his harness, 
 they the hasty conclusion that our whole 
 
 party hid 1 in a rapid ; and throwing away 
 
 part of tl . and leaving it behind 
 
 them, they set off with the utmosl haste to join ' 
 
 Our messenger met them in their flight, but too 
 far advanced to admit of their returning for the moat.
 
 170 Thirty Years 
 
 Akaitcho scolded tbem heartily for their thoughtless- 
 ness in leaving the meat, which we so much wanted. 
 They expressed their regret, and being ashamed ot 
 their panic, proposed to remedy the evil as much as 
 possible by going forward, without stopping until they 
 came to a favorable spot for hunting, which they ex- 
 pected to do about thirty or forty miles below our 
 present encampment. Akaitcho accompanied them, 
 but previous to setting off he renewed his charge that 
 we should be on our guard against the bears, which 
 was occasioned by the hunters having fired at one this 
 morning as they were descending a rapid in their 
 canoe. As their small canoes would only carry five 
 persons, two of the hunters had to walk in turns along 
 the banks. 
 
 In our rambles round the encampment, we witnessed 
 with pleasure the progress which the vegetation had 
 made within the few last warm days ; most of the 
 had pul forth their leaves, and several flowers 
 ed the m red ground ; many of the 
 
 smaller summer birds were observed in the woods, and 
 a variety of ducks, gulls, and plovers, were seen on the 
 banks of the river. The river is about three hundred 
 yards wide at this part, is drop and Hows over a hod 
 of alluvial Band. We caught some trout of con- 
 siderable si/.r with our linos, and a Pew white (ish in 
 the ii' i maintained us, with a little assistance
 
 '(MB. I - I 
 
 i the pemmican. The repair of our canoes •■ 
 completed this evening. Previous to embarkin 
 issued an order that no rapid Bhould in future be 
 descended until the bowmen had examined it, and 
 decided apoo its being Bafe to run. Wherever the 
 
 : danger was to be apprehended, or the crew had 
 to disembark for the purpose of lightening the can 
 tlie ammunition, guns and instrumei 
 to 1"' put out and carried along the bank : that wo 
 
 at be provided with the meat ; ir- 
 
 of any accident befalling the can 
 fonr in the morning of July ' embark d 
 
 and Led a succession of very agitated ra] 
 
 but took the precaution of landing the articles m n- 
 tioned yesterday, wherever there appeared any I 
 notwithstanding all our precautions the leadin 
 struck with great force against a stone, and the bark 
 was split, but this injury was easily repaired, and we 
 
 retted only the loss of time. At eleven we came 
 t, an expansion or the river where the current ran 
 
 h less force, and an accumulati m of drifl ice h id, 
 in consequence, barred the channel ; which the cai 
 and c urgoes were carried over. The ice in many pi i 
 adhered to the banks, and I in wid 
 
 several feel thick over thi i, which had hollowed 
 
 il bi Death. < In tl e p pie 
 
 were embarking from our <>( these L< udd< nly
 
 172 Thirty Years 
 
 gave way, and three men were precipitated into the 
 water, but were rescued without farther damage than 
 a sound ducking, and the canoe fortunately (and nar- 
 rowly) escaped being crushed. Perceiving one of the 
 Indians sitting on the east bank of the river, we 
 landed, and having learned from him that Akaitcho 
 and the hunters had gone in pursuit of a herd of musk 
 oxen, we encamped, having come twenty-four miles 
 and a half. 
 
 In the afternoon they brought us the agreeable 
 intelligence of their having killed eight cows, of which 
 four were full grown. All the party were immediately 
 despatched to bring in this seasonable supply. A 
 young cow, irritated by the firing of the hunters, ran 
 down to the river, and passed close to me when walk- 
 ing at a short distance from the tents. I fired and 
 wounded it, when the animal instantly turned, and 
 ran at me, but I avoided its fury by jumping a: ide 
 and '.retting upon an elevated piece of ground. In the 
 mean time some people came from the tents, and it 
 took tn flight. 
 
 The musk oxen, like the buffalo, herd together in 
 bands, and generally frequent the barren grounds du- 
 ring the summer months, keeping near to the banks 
 of the river, but retire \n the woods in winter. They 
 seem i" 1"' less watchful than most other wild ani- 
 and when grazing are no 1 difficult to approach.
 
 /// the Arcti ns. L73 
 
 provided the hunters go against the wind ; when t' i 
 or three men get so mar a herd as to fire at them from 
 different points, these animals, instead of separating 
 or running away, huddle closer together, and several 
 are generally killed ; but if the wound is not mortal 
 they become enraged and dart in the most furious 
 manner at the hunters, who must be very dexterous 
 to evade them. They can defend themselves by their 
 powerful horns against the wolves and bears, which, 
 as the Indians say, they not unfrequently kill. 
 
 on the same substances with 
 the reindeer, and the prints of the feet of these two 
 animals are alike that it requires the eye of 
 
 an experienced hunter to distinguish them. The 
 largest of these animals killed by us did do! exceed in 
 weight three hundred pounds. The flesh has a 
 musky, disagreeable flavor, particularly when the ani- 
 mal is lean, which unfortunately for us, was the i 
 with all that were now killed by us. 
 
 During this day's march the river varii d in breadth 
 
 from one hundred to two hundred feet, and except in 
 
 two "pen Bpaces, a very Btrong cum nt marked a deep 
 ■ the whole way. It flows over abed of gravel, 
 of which also its immediate banks are comp< 
 ,r i,, our i Dcampment it i.> bounded by cliffs of fine 
 
 sand from *>ne hundred to two hundred feet high. 
 Sandy plains extend en a level with the summit of
 
 174 Thirty Years 
 
 these cliffs, and at the distance of six or seven miles 
 are terminated by ranges of hills eight hundred or one 
 thousand feet high. The grass on these plains affords 
 excellent pasturage for the musk oxen, and they gen- 
 erally abound here. The hunters added two more to 
 our stock in the course of the night. As we had now 
 more meat than the party could consume fresh, we de- 
 layed our voyage next day for the purpose of drying 
 it. The hunters were 'supplied with more ammuni- 
 tion and sent forward ; but Akaitcho, his brother, and 
 another Indian remained with us. 
 
 It may here be proper to mention, that the officers 
 had treated Akaitcho more distantly since our depar- 
 ture from Point Lake, for the purpose of shewing him 
 their opinion of his misconduct. The diligen 
 hunting, however, which he had evinced at this place, 
 induced us to receive him more familiarly when he 
 Came to the tent this evening. During our com 
 tion ho endeavored to excite suspicions in our minds 
 against the Hook, by saying, " I am aware thai yi u 
 consider me the worst man of my nation ; hut I know 
 the Hook to be a great rogue, and, 1 think, he will 
 disappoint you." 
 
 On the morning of the 6th we embarked, and de- 
 scended a series of rapids, having twice unloaded the 
 canoes where the water was shallow. After passing 
 the mouth of the Fairy Lake River the rapids ceased.
 
 Ju the An tic R gions. 175 
 
 main stream was thru about three hundred 
 wide, and generally deep, though, in one part, 
 channel was interrupted by Beveral sandy banks, and 
 low alluvial islands covered with willows. It flows 
 between banks of sand thinly wooded, and as we ad- 
 
 I the barr< n hills approached the water'a 
 At ten we rejoined our hunters, who had killed a 
 
 and halted to breakfast. Wesent them forward ; 
 
 fthem, who was walking along the shore after- 
 wards, fired upon two brown hears, and wounde I 
 of them, which instantly turn 
 
 companions in the canoes put ashore to hi 
 Bistance, but did nol I in killii 
 
 which fled upon the reinforcement coming up. 
 During the delay thus occasioned we overtook them, 
 and they continued with us during the rest of theday.
 
 176 TKirty Years 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 On the lltli we traveled nine miles to the foot of 
 the Copper Mountains, the day being hot. On' the 
 12th passed on our way twelve miles. Iu the evening 
 we had the gratification of meeting Junius, who was 
 hastening back to inform us that they had found four 
 Esquimaux tents at the fall which we recognized to bo 
 the one described by Mr. Hearne. The inmates were 
 asleep at the time of their arrival, but rose soon after- 
 wards, and then Augustus presented himself, and had 
 some conversation across the river. He told them the 
 white people had arrived, who would make them very 
 useful presents. The information of our arrival seem- 
 ed to alarm them very much, but as the noise of the 
 rapid prevented them from hearing distinctly, one of 
 them came nearer to him in his canoe, and received 
 
 the rest of the message. He would nut, however. 
 
 land on his side of the river, bul returned to their 
 tents with siving the present. His 
 
 differed in some respects from Augustus's, but they 
 understood each other tolerably well. Augustus
 
 J it th< Arctic 177 
 
 trusting for a supply of provision to the Esquimaux, 
 had !• arry any with him, and this w 
 
 main fin-'' of Junius's return. We now encamped, 
 having come fourteen miles. After a few hours' 
 Juniu again to rejoin his companion, beii 
 
 companied by Eepburn, who was d to remain 
 
 about two miles above the fall, to arrest tin- can 
 their | we should too suddenly surprise the 
 
 Esquimaux. About ten P.M. we were mortified by 
 the appearance of the Indians with Mr. Wentzel, who 
 had in vain endeavored to restrain them from follow- 
 ing ojb. The only reason assigned by Akaitcho forthis 
 conduct was. that he wished a re-assurance of my 
 promise to establish peace between his nation and the 
 Esquimaux I took this occasion of* pointing oul 
 again the necessity of their remaining behind, until 
 we had obtained the confidence and good will of their 
 enemies. After supper Dr. Richardson ascended a 
 lofty hill about three miles from the encampment, and 
 obtained the first view of the Bea ; it appeared to be 
 covered with ice. A Large promontory, which I nam- 
 ed Cape Hearne, b re N 11, and its lofty mountains 
 proved t<> 1>" the blue land wo had Been in the fore- 
 noon, and which had led as to believe the sea wa 
 
 1'ir distant. He >aw th 
 
 midnight from the same elevated situation. It did 
 ii<>t rise during the halt" hour he remained then
 
 178 Thirty Years 
 
 before he reached the encampment its rays gilded the 
 tops of the hills. 
 
 The night was warm and we were much annoyed by 
 the niusquitoes. 
 
 June 15. — We this morning experienced as much 
 difficulty as before in prevailing upon the Indians to 
 remain behind, and they did not consent to do so until 
 I had assured them that they should lose the reward 
 which had been promised, if they proceeded any far- 
 ther, until we had prepared the Esquimaux to receive 
 them. We left a Canadian with them; and proceeded 
 on our journey, not without apprehension that they 
 would follow us, and derange our whole plan by their 
 obstinacy- Two of the officers and a party of the 
 men walked on the shore, to lighten the canoes. The 
 river, in this part, flows between high sand-stone cliffs, 
 reddish slate clay rocks, and shelving banks of white 
 clay, and is full of shoals and dangerous rapids. One 
 of these was termed Escape Rapid, from both the 
 canoes having narrowly escaped foundering in its high 
 waves. Wo had entered the rapid before wo wore 
 aware, and the steepness of the cliffs preventing us 
 from landing, wo were indebted to the swiftness of our 
 .it for our preservation. Two waves made a com- 
 plete breach over the canoes ; a third would in all 
 probability have filled and overset them, which must 
 have proved fatal to every one in them. The powder
 
 In the Arctic Il<<ji<m8. 17'.' 
 
 fortunate !y i which was w 
 
 chai i the bottom of the rapid. 
 
 At dood we perceived Hepburn lying on the lefl ba 
 of the riv. r. and we landed immediately I bia 
 
 information. As he represented the water to besh >al 
 the wh< I i the rapid, (below which the Esqui- 
 
 maux were,) the Bhore party were directed tocontin 
 their march to a Bandy bay at the head of the fell, 
 and there await the arrival of the canoes. The land 
 in the neighborhood of the rapid, is of the m >st sin- 
 gular form : large Irregular sand hills 1m. muling both 
 banks, apparently so une I that tl. tble 
 
 an try around them consisting of high 
 round green hills. The river became wide in this part 
 and lull of Bhoals, hut we had no difficulty in finding 
 
 bannel through them. On regaining the ^iore 
 party, we regretted to find tl if the men had 
 
 incautiously appeared on the tops of the hills, just at 
 the time Augustus was conversing with one of I 
 
 aimaux, who had approached in his canoe, and 
 almosl ; 1 to land. The unfortunate ap- 
 
 pearance of so many people at this instant, revh 
 his fears, and he ci ibsi d rn bank 
 
 the river, and fled with the whole of his party. 
 learned from Augustus that this party, consie 
 
 four men and as many WOmen, had manifested a 
 
 friendly disposition. Two of the m n were very tall.
 
 180 Thirty Tears 
 
 The man who first came to speak to him, inquired the 
 number of canoes that we had with us, expressed him- 
 self to be not displeased at our arrival, and desired 
 him to caution us not to attempt running the rapid, 
 but to make the portage on the west side of the river. 
 Notwithstanding this appearance of confidence and 
 satisfaction, it seems they did not consider their situa- 
 tion to be free from danger, as they retreated the first 
 night to an island somewhat farther down the river, 
 and in the morning they returned and threw down 
 their lodges, as if to give notice to any of their na- 
 tion that might arrive, that there was an enemy in the 
 neighborhood. From seeing all their property strewed 
 about, and ten of their dogs left, we entertained the 
 hope that these poor people would n't urn after their 
 first alarm had subsided ; and therefore I determined 
 on remaining until the next day, in the expectation of 
 seeiDg them, as I considered the opening of an early 
 i ommunication to be a matter of the greatest impor- 
 tance in our state ot* absolute ignorance respecting the 
 
 ast. Tlie canoes and cargoes were carried across 
 the portage, and we encamped od the north side of it. 
 
 ii' Augustus and Junius across the river lo look 
 for the runaways, but- their search was fruitless. 
 
 .v pieces of iron and trinkets iii their 
 canoes, which were lung on the beaoh, We also sent 
 some men to put up the stages of fish, and secure
 
 In ///- Arctic ll< giona. 1 6 1 
 
 them as much as possible from the attacks of the 
 
 Under the covering of their tents were observed Bome 
 
 li s and hatchets, a few fish Bpears made of 
 
 copper, two small hits of iron, a quantity of .-kins, 
 
 >me dried Balmon, which was covered with mag- 
 
 and half pntrid. The entrails of the fish were 
 
 1 < nit to dry. fc A ;, r iv;it many skins of small birds 
 
 were hung up to a Btage, and even two mice were pre- 
 
 'rved in the Bame way. Thus it would appear that 
 
 the necessities of these p ■ people Induce them to 
 
 eery article that can be possibly 
 
 il human skulls, which bore the marks of 
 
 lence, and many bones were strewed about the -round 
 near to the encampment, and as the spot exactly an- 
 swers the description given by Mr. Beanie, of the 
 where the Chipewyans who accompanied him 
 perpetrated the dreadful massacre, on the Esquimaux, 
 we had no doubt <>i' this being the place, notwithstand- 
 ing the difference in its position as to latitude and 
 longitude given by him, and ascertained by our ob- 
 Bervation, We have, therefore, preserved the appel- 
 lation of Bloody Fall, which he I upon it. 
 This rapid is a sort of Bhelving cascade, about three 
 hundred yards in length, bavin m ten 
 to fifteen feet. It is hounded on earn Bide by high 
 walls of red Band stone, up >n which r« bI 
 lofty green lulls. On its north Bid<
 
 182 Thirty Years 
 
 bank, is the low rocky island which the Esquimaux 
 deserted. We caught forty excellent fish of the sal- 
 mon and white fish sr^ecies in a single net below the 
 rapid. We had not seen any trees during this day's 
 journey ; our fuel consisted of small willows and 
 pieces of dried wood that were picked up near to the 
 encampment. The ground is well clothed with grass, 
 and nourishes most of the shrubs and berry-bearing 
 plants that we have seen north of Fort Enterprize ; 
 and the country altogether has a richer appearance 
 than the barren lands of the Copper Indians. We 
 had a distinct view of the sea from the summit of a 
 hill behind the tents ; it appeared choked with ice 
 and full of islands. 
 
 On the morning of the 16th three men were sent up 
 the river to search for dried wood to make floats for 
 the nets. Adam, the interpreter, was also despatched 
 with a Canadian to inform Akaitcho of the flight of 
 the Esquimaux. We were preparing to go down to 
 tin' sea in one of the canoes, leaving Mr. Back to await 
 the return <»f the men who were absent ; but just as 
 tin- crew woe putting the canoe in the water, Adam 
 arrived in the utmost consternation, and informed US 
 thai m party of Esquimaux were pursuing the men 
 whom he had sent, to colled floats, The orders for 
 embarking were instantly countermanded, and wo 
 wont with a party of men to their rescue We soon
 
 /// the Artie E 
 
 met "in- people returning at a slow pace, and Learned 
 that they had come unawares upon the Esquimaux 
 party, which consisted of bus hud, with their women 
 ami children, who were traveling towards the rapid 
 with a considerable number of irrying their 
 
 The women hid themselves on the first 
 alarm, hut the men advanced, and stopping a* Bome 
 
 ■ iiiiv from our men, began to dance in a cirri.-. 
 
 ing up their hands in tin' air. and accompanying 
 their motions with much shoutii ignify, I c 
 
 ieir desire of peace. Our men saluted them 
 by pulling oil' their hats, and making hows, hut 
 neither party was willing t > approach the other ; and, 
 
 length, the Esquimaux retired to the hill, from 
 whence they had descended when G We 
 
 proceeded in tin? hope of gaining an interview with 
 tie m. hut lest our appearance in ;i body should alarm 
 them, we advanced in a long line, at. the head ot 
 which was Augustus. We were led to their 1 
 
 which they had deserted, by the howling of th do 
 
 and on the summit of the hid we found, lying beh 
 
 a Btone, an old man, who was to < infirm to effect his 
 
 ipe with the rest, lie was much d when 
 
 rustus advance 1. and probably expected immediate 
 
 death; hut that the fatal blow mi h oot be un - 
 
 venged, he seized his Bpear, and madea thrust with it 
 
 at his supposed em my. Augustus, howevi r. e;
 
 184 Thirty Years 
 
 repressed his feeble effort, and soon calmed his fears 
 by presenting him with some pieces of iron, and 
 assuring him of his friendly intentions. Dr. Richard- 
 son and I then joined them, and, after receiving our 
 presents, the old man was quite composed, and be- 
 came communicative. His dialect differed from that 
 used by Augustus, but they understood each other 
 tolerably well. 
 
 It appeared that his party consisted of eight men 
 and their families, who were returning from a hunting 
 excursion with dried meat. After being told who we 
 were, lie said, that he had heard of white people from 
 different parties of his nation which resided on the sea- 
 coast to the eastward ; and to our inquiries respecting 
 the provision and fuel we might expect to get on our 
 voyage, he informed us that the reindeer frequent the 
 eoasl during summer, the fish are plentiful at the 
 mouths of the rivers, the seals arc abundant, bul there 
 are no sea-horses nor whales, although he remember- 
 ed one of the latter, which had been killed by some 
 distant tribe, having been driven on shore on his 
 pari of the coast by a gale of wind ; that musk oxen 
 were to be found a little distance up the rivers, and 
 that we should find drift wood along the Bhore. lie 
 had do knowledge of the coast to the easl ward beyond 
 tin' next river, which he culled Nappa-arktok-towock, 
 or Tree River. The old man, contrary to the Indian
 
 In i lii Arctic Regions. 
 
 practice, asked i acb of our Dames ; and, in reply to a 
 similar question on our part, Baid bis was Terregan- 
 nceuck, or the White Fox ; and thai his tribe denomi- 
 nated themselves Nagge-ook-tor-mceoot, or Deer Eorn 
 Esquimaux. They usually frequent the Bloody Fall 
 during this and the following moons, for the purj 
 of Baiting salmon, and then retire to a river which 
 flows into the sea, a Bhort way to the westward, (si 
 denominated Richardson's River,) and pass the win- 
 ti r in Bnow-houses. 
 
 After this conversation, Terregannoeuck 
 going down to 1 . and we then perceived he 
 
 was too infirm to walk without th 
 Augustus, therefore, offered him his arm, which he 
 readily acc< pted, and. on reaching his store, he distri- 
 buted ] teces of dried neat to each . which, 
 though highly tainted, were immediately eaten ; tins 
 being an universal token among the Indians of pi ace- 
 able intent i 
 
 We then informed him of our desire to proem 
 
 much meat as we j.ossihly could, and be told us that 
 
 he had a large quantity concealed in the neighborhood, 
 which he would cause to be carried to us when his 
 le returned. 
 1 now communicati d to him th 
 pani< d by - I per Indians, wh 
 
 rous to make peace with his nation, and that they
 
 186 Thirty Years 
 
 had requested me to prevail upon the Esquimaux to 
 receive them in a friendly manner ; to which he re- 
 plied, he should rejoice to see an end put to the hos- 
 tility that existed between the nations, and, therefore, 
 would most gladly welcome our companions. Having 
 despatched Adam to inform Akaitcho of this circum- 
 stance, we left Terragannceuck, in the hope that his 
 party would rejoin him ; but as we had doubts whe- 
 ther the young men would venture upon coming to 
 our tents, on the old man's bare representation, we 
 sent Augustus and Junius back in the evening, to re- 
 main with him until they came, that they might fully 
 detail to them our intentions. 
 
 The countenance of Terregannceuck was oval, with 
 a sufficiently prominent nose, and had nothing very 
 different from an European face, except in the small- 
 
 of his eyes, and, perhaps, in the narrowm 
 his forehead. His complexion was very fresh and red, 
 and he had a longer beard than 1 have hitherto seeo 
 on any of the Aboriginal inhabitants of America. Ii 
 was between two and three inches long, and perfectlj 
 white. J lis face was nottattoed. His dress consisted 
 of a shirt, or jacket with a hood, wide breeches, reai h- 
 ing only to the knee, and tighl leggins sewed to the 
 . all ofdeers' skins. The Boles of the shoes were 
 
 Of seal-skin, and Stuffed with feathers instead of 
 
 socks. He was benl with age, but appeared about
 
 In tin Arctic Regions. 187 
 
 five :i inches high. His hands and i 
 
 small in proportion to his height Whenevi r T 
 
 Qnoeuck received a present, he placed each article 
 first on ln's right Bhoulder, then on his lefl ; and when 
 he wished to express still higher satisfaction, he rub- 
 bed it over his head. Ee held hatchets, and otl 
 iron instruments, in the highest esteem. On seeing 
 his countenance in a glass for the first time, he i 
 claimed, ''I shall never kill dei r more," and immedi- 
 ately put the mirror down. The tribe to which he 
 
 rej air to the sea in spring, and kill s< 
 the season advan hunt deer and musk o: 
 
 at some distance from the coast. Their weapon is 
 
 bow and arrow, and they get sufficiently near to 
 
 the deer, cither by crawling, or leading these anim 
 .by ranges of turf towards ^here the archer ran 
 
 conceal himself. Their bo^ formed of three 
 
 pieces of fir, the centre piece alone bent, the other 
 two lying in the Bame straight line with the bow- 
 string ; the pieces are neatly tied together with sinew. 
 Their canoes are similar to those we saw in Buds 
 Straits, hut smaller. Tiny get fish c instantly in the 
 rivers, and in the Bea as Boon as the ice breaks up. 
 'J 'his tribe dors not mal ; at they are 
 
 tolerably successful with the hook and line. Their 
 cooking utensils are made of pot-stone, and they form 
 very neat dishes of fir, the sides being made ,,t thin
 
 188 Thirty Tears 
 
 deal bent into an oval form, secured at the ends by 
 sewing, and fitted so nicely to the bottom as to be 
 perfectly water tight. They have also large spoons 
 made of the horns of the musk oxen. 
 
 Akaitcho and the Indians arrived at our tents in the 
 evening, and we learned that they had seen the Esqui- 
 maux the day before, and endeavored, without success, 
 to open a communication with them. They exhibited 
 no hostile intention, but were afraid to come near. 
 Akaitcho keeping out of their sight, followed them at 
 a distance, expecting that ultimately finding them- 
 selves enclosed between our party and his, they would 
 be compelled to come to a parley with one of us. 
 Akaitcho had seen Terregannoeuck soon after our de- 
 parture ; he was much terrified at their approach, and 
 thrust his spear at Akaitcho as he had done at Au- 
 gustus ; but ho was soon reconciled after the demon- 
 strations of kindness the Indians made, in cutting off 
 the buttons from th< ir dress to present to him. 
 
 July 17. — We waited all this forenoon in momentary 
 expectation of the return of Augustus and J unius, but 
 as tli y did not appear at two P.M., I sent Mr. flood, 
 with a party of men. to inq lire into the cause of their 
 
 i. and to bring the meat, which Terrejjjkn- 
 
 noeuck had promised us, 1 1 <• returned at midnight 
 with the information, thai none of the Esquimaux 
 had yet ventured to come near Terregannoeuck except
 
 In ns. 189 
 
 his aged wife, who had concealed herself among the 
 rocks at our first Interview ; and Bhe told him the i 
 of the party had gone to a river, a short distant 
 the westward, where there was another party of 
 Esquimaux fishing. Augustus and Junius had erect< d 
 the tent, and done every thing in their power to make 
 the old man comfortable in their absence. Terre- 
 gannoeuck being unable to walk to the place where 
 the meat was concealed, readily pointed the Bpol out 
 .Mr. II 1. who went thither; but after ex- 
 periencing much difficulty in getting at the column of 
 ruck en which it was deposit) '1. !;•• found the meal 
 putrid for our use. The features of Terregannoeuck's 
 wit" were remarkable for roundness and flatness : her 
 
 e was much tattoed, her dress differed little from 
 the old man's. 
 
 In the aftern i u party of nine Esquimaux ap- 
 peared mi the east lunk of the river, about a mile 
 below our encampment, carrying their canoes and bag- 
 
 e <»n their backe ; hut they turned and fled a- soon 
 
 as they perceived our tents. The a] pearanc 
 
 many different hands <>\' Esquimaux terrified the Indians 
 
 . that they determined on leaving us 
 
 the next day, lesl they Bhould he surrounded, and 
 
 their retreat cut oil'. I end r of 
 
 any remuneration they would choose, to prevail ii] 
 
 one or two of the hunters to prt C( ed, hut in vain ; and
 
 190 Thirty Years 
 
 I had much difficulty even in obtaining their promise 
 to wait at the Copper Mountains for Mr. Wentzel and 
 the four men, whom I intended to discharge at the 
 sea. 
 
 The fears which our interpreters, St. Germain and 
 Adam, entertained respecting the voyage, were now 
 greatly increased, and both of them came this evening 
 to request their discharges, urging that their services 
 could be no longer requisite, as the Indians were going 
 from us. St. Germain even said that he had under- 
 stood he was only engaged to accompany us as long as 
 the Indians did, and persisted in this falsehood until 
 his agreement to go with us throughout the voyage 
 had been twice read to him. As these were the only 
 two of the party on whose skill in hunting we could 
 rely, 1 was unable to listen for a moment to their de- 
 sire of quitting us, and lest they should leave us by 
 stealth, their motions were strictly watched. This 
 was not an unnecessary precaution, as I was informed 
 that they bad, actually laid a plan lor eloping ; but the 
 i' the in. mi knowing thai their own safety would 
 have been compromised had they succeeded, kepi a 
 
 watchful eye over them, We knew that the dread of 
 
 the Esquimaux would prevent thesemenfrom leaving 
 
 us as soon as the Indians were al a distance, and we 
 
 trusted to their becoming reconciled to the journey 
 when once the novelty of a Bea voyage had worn oil'.
 
 In th( Arctic ff< gions. L91 
 
 July 18. — As tfa sred in their d 
 
 mination of setting out this morning, 1 reminded them 
 through Mr. Wentzel and 8l in. of the oe< 
 
 sitv of our having the deposit of provision made at 
 Fort Enterprise, and received a renewed a of 
 
 their attending to that point. They were also desired 
 to put as much m a1 aa they could en each on the 
 banka of the Copper-Mine Riveron their return. We 
 theo furnished them with as much ammunition as we 
 could spare, and they took their departure, promising 
 to wait three d Mr. Wentzel at the l 
 
 Mountains. We afterwards Learned that their fears 
 did cot permit them to do bo, and that Mr. Wentzel 
 did not rejoin them until they were a day's march to 
 the southward of the mountains. 
 
 We embarked at five A.M. and proceeded t iwards 
 the Bea, which is about nine mile distant from the 
 (dy Fall. After passing a few rapids, the river 
 became wider, and more navigable for canoes, flowing 
 1h tween hanks of alluvial sand. We encamped at 
 ten on the westo rn hank at its junction with tin- • 
 The river is here about a mile wide, hut very Bhallow, 
 being barred nearly across by sand hanks, which run 
 out? from the main land on < ach side to a low alluvial 
 island that lies in ti, . and forma two cnann 
 
 of these the westermosi only is navigable even for 
 noes, the other being obstructed by a Btonj bar. The
 
 192 Thirty Years 
 
 islands to seaward are high and numerous, and fill the 
 horizon in many points of the compass ; the only open 
 space, seen from an eminence near the encampment, 
 being from N.bE. to N.E.bN. Towards the east the 
 land was like a chain of islands, the ice surrounded 
 the islands apparently in a compact body, leaving a 
 channel between its edge and the main of about three 
 miles. The water in this channel was of a clear green 
 color, and decidedly salt. Mr. Hearne could have 
 only tasted it at the mouth of the river, when he pro- 
 nounced it to be merely brackish. A rise and fall of 
 fuur inches in the water was observed. The shore is 
 strewed with a considerable quantity of drift timber, 
 which is principally of the wood of the j )0 2 )U ^ us bal- 
 samiferaj but none of it of great size. We also pick- 
 ed up some decayed wood far out of the reach of the 
 water. A few stunted willows were growing near the 
 encampment. Some ducks, gulls, and partridges were, 
 seen fco-day. As I had to make up despatches for 
 England to be sent by Mr. Went/.el, the nets were 
 Bet in the interim, and we were rejoiced to find that 
 
 they produced a sufficiency of fish to Bupply the party. 
 The fish caught were, the Copper-Mine River salmon, 
 white fish, and two species of pleuronectes. We fell 
 :. considerable change of temperature on reaching the 
 sea-coast, produced by the winds changing from the. 
 southward to the N \V. Our Canadian voyagers com-
 
 In th A,< tic I: 
 
 plained much of the cold, but they were amused with 
 their firel view of the sea, and particularly with 
 
 :it of the seals thai were Bwimming about near the 
 entrance of the river, but these sensations gave place 
 to despondency before the evening had elapsed. They 
 were terrified af the idea of a voyage through an icy 
 in lark canoes. They speculated on the length 
 of the journey, the roughness of the sea, the uncer- 
 tainty of provisions, the exposui Id where we 
 could expect no fuel, and the prospect of having to 
 traverse the barren grounds I tablish- 
 ment. The two interpreters <■>.. their api 
 hensions with the least disguise, and again urgently 
 applied to be discharged ; but only one of the Cana- 
 dians made a similar request. Judging that the con- 
 it occupation of their time as soon as we were ena- 
 bled to commence the voyage, would prevent them 
 from conjuring up so many ram r, and thai 
 familiarity with the scenes on the coast, would in a 
 short time enable them to iope to their natural 
 cheerfulness, the officers endeavored to ridicule their 
 ('ears, and happi i for the present. The 
 manner in which our faithful Hepburn viewed theele- 
 ni'it that h • 1 id b en - • I rog n- 
 tributed not a little to make them ashamed of their 
 
 On the morning of the 19th, Dr. Ri< bai com-
 
 194 Thirty Years 
 
 panied by Augustus, paid another visit to Terregan- 
 nceuck, to see if be could obtain any additional infor- 
 mation respecting the country to the eastward ; but 
 he was disappointed at finding that his affrighted fami- 
 ly had not yet rejoined him, and the old man could 
 add nothing to his former communication. The Doc- 
 tor remarked that Terregannoeuck had a great dislike 
 to mentioning the name of the Copper-Mine Biver, 
 and that he evaded the question with much dexterity 
 as often as it was put to him ; but that he willingly 
 told the name of a river to the eastward, and also of 
 his tribe. He attempted to persuade Augustus to re- 
 main with him, and offered him one of his daughters 
 for a wife. These Esquimaux strike fire with two 
 stones, catching the sparks in the down of the catkius 
 of a willow. 
 
 The despatches being finished were delivered this) 
 
 evening to Mr. Wentzel, who parted from us at eight 
 
 P. M. with Parent, Gagnier, Dumas, and Forcier, 
 
 Canadians, whom I had discharged for the purpose of 
 
 reducing our expenditure of provisions as much as 
 
 ile. The remainder of the party, including 
 
 rs, amounted to twenty poisons. 1 made Mr. 
 
 Wentzel acquainted with the pfobable course of our 
 
 future proceedings, and mentioned to him that if we 
 
 far distant from this river, when the season or 
 
 other circumstances rendered it necessary to put a top
 
 in tin Arctic Regions. r.\ 
 
 our advance, we should, in all probability, 
 unable to return to it, and should have to travel 
 across the barren grounds towards I iblished 
 
 posl ; in which case 1 told him that we should cer- 
 tainly gO first to Fort Enterprise, expecting that he 
 would cause the Indians to place a supply of dried 
 provision there, as Boon as possible after their arrival 
 in its vicinity. My instructions to him were, that he 
 Bhould proceed to Point Lake, transport the canoe that 
 was left then- to Fort Enterprise, where he was 
 embark the instruments and books, and carry them to 
 Slave Lake, and to forward the box containing the 
 journals, &c, with the present despatches by the next 
 winter packet to England. But before he quitted 
 Port Enterprise, he was to be assured of the intention 
 of the Indians to lay up the provision we required, 
 and if they should be in want of ammunition for that 
 purpose, to procure it if possible from Fort Proi idi □ 
 or the other torts in Slave Lake, and send it imme- 
 diately to them by the hunters who accompanied him 
 thither. I [uested him to in from 
 
 Akaitcho and the other leading Indians, where their 
 different parties would be hunting in the monthi 
 September and October, and to have this information 
 in a letter at Fort Enterprise, for our guidance in 
 finding them, as we should require their assistai 
 Mr. Went/.. 1 «eas furnished with h list of the sb
 
 196 Thirty Years 
 
 that had been promised to Akaitcho and his party as 
 a remuneration for their services, as well as with an 
 official request to the North- West Company that 
 these goods might be paid to them on their next visit 
 to Fort Providence, which they expected to make in 
 the latter part of November. I desired him to men- 
 tion this circumstance to the Indians as an encourage- 
 ment to their exertion in our behalf, and to promise 
 them an additional reward for the supply of provision 
 they should collect at Fort Enterprize. 
 
 If Mr. Wentzel met the Hook, or any of his party. 
 he was instructed to assure them that he was provided 
 with the necessary documents to get them payment 
 for any meat they should put en cache for our use ; 
 and to acquaint them, that we fully relied on their 
 fulfilling every part of the agreement they had made 
 with us. Whenever the Indians, whom he was to 
 join at the Copper Mountains, killed any animals on 
 their way to Fori Enterprize, he was requested to put 
 en cache whatever meal could be spared, placing con- 
 spicuous marks to guide us to them ; and I par- 
 ticularly begged he would employ them in hunting 
 in our service, immediately after his arrival at the 
 house. 
 
 When Mr. Wentzel's party had been supplied with 
 ammunition, our remaining Btock consisted of one 
 thousand balls, and a little more than the requisite
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 197 
 
 proportion of powder. A bag "t" small Bbot was miss- 
 ine. and we afterwards discovered that the Canadians 
 had Becreted ami distributed it among themselves, in 
 order that when provision Bhould become scarce, they 
 mighl privately procure ducks ami geese, and avoid 
 the necessity of Bharing them with the officers.
 
 198 Thirty Years 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 T 18 , 21 -„, We intended to have embarked early this raorn- 
 
 July 21. * 
 
 ing, and to have launched upon an element, which 
 was more congenial with our habits than the fresh- 
 water navigations, and their numerous difficulties and 
 impediments we had hitherto encountered, hut which 
 was altogether new to our Canadian voyagers. We 
 were detained, however, hy a strong north-east gale, 
 which continued the whole day, with constant thunder 
 showers ; the more provoking as our nets procured 
 hut lew fish, and we had to draw upon our store of 
 dried meat ; which, with other provision tor the jour- 
 ney, amounted only to fifteen days' consumption. 
 Indeed, we should have preferred going dinnerless to 
 be'd rather than encroach on our small stock, had we 
 not beeo desirous of satisfying the appetites, and 
 cheering the spirits of our Canadian companions at 
 the commencement of our voyage. These thoughtless 
 people would, al any time, incur the hazard of abso- 
 lute starvation, at a future period, for the presenl 
 gratification of their appetites ; to indulge which they
 
 An ' '■■ H 
 
 do not hesitate, as we more than 
 
 helping themselves secretly ; it being, in their opinion, 
 
 no disgrace to be caughl in the acl of pilfering food. 
 
 < > 1 1 r only luxury now was ;i little salt, which h 1 
 long been our substitute both for bread and vegetables. 
 Since our departure from Poinl Lake we had boiled 
 the [ndian tea plant, ledum palustre, which produced 
 a beverage in smell much resembling rhubarb ; not- 
 withstanding which we found it refreshing, and were 
 gratified t i Bee this plant flourishing abundantly, 
 though of dwarfish growth, on the sea-shore. 
 
 July 21. — Tlic wind, which had blown st 
 through tin- night, became moderate in the morning, 
 Imt a dense fog prevented us from embarking until 
 noon, when we commenced our voyage on tli-' li 
 borean Sea S.n>n afterwards we landed <>n an island 
 where tli" Esquimaux had erected a Btage of drift 
 timber, and stored up many of their fishing imple- 
 ments and winter sledges, together with a greal many 
 
 '. ox, and deer -kins. Their i 
 headed with 1h.ii-. and many small articles of the 
 same material, were worked with extreme neatn 
 well as their wooden dishes, and cooking ut< nsils of 
 stein' ; and several articles very elegantly i 
 
 \ idently intended f r i •. bul 
 
 Augustus was unacquainted withtheiru e. W< 
 from this deposil four Beal .-kins to repair our Bhoes,
 
 200 Thirty Yea 
 
 and left in exchange a copper-kettle, and some awk 
 and Leads. 
 
 We paddled all day along the coast to the east- 
 ward, on the inside of a crowded range of islands, and 
 saw very little ice ; the " blink" of it, however, was 
 visible to the northward, and one small iceberg was 
 seen at a distance. A tide was distinguishable among 
 the islands by the foam floating on the water, but we 
 could not ascertain its direction. In the afternoon 
 St. Germain killed, on an island, a fat deer, which 
 was a great acquisition to us ; it was the first we had 
 seen for some months in good condition. 
 
 Having encamped on the main shore, after a run of 
 thirty-seven miles, we set up a pole to ascertain the 
 rise and fall of the water, which was repeated at every 
 halting-place, and Bepburn was ordered to attend to 
 the result. We found the coast well covered with 
 ition, «i!' moderate height, even in its outline, 
 and easy ,,(' approach. The islands are rocky and bar- 
 ren, presenting high cliffs of a columnar structure. 1 
 have named the westernmosl group of those we pass- 
 ed "B ens' Isles, - ' in honor of the Governor of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company ; and the easternmost, "Sir 
 Graham Moore's Islands." At the spot where we 
 Landed, b< me muscle-shells and a Bingk piece oi 
 weed lay "ii the beach; this was the only spol on 
 
 the. coast where we saw shells. We were rejoiced to
 
 /// tin Arctic Regions. 
 
 find the beach Btrewed with abundance <»i Bmall drift- 
 w 1, Qone of it recent, 
 
 It may be remarked that the Copper-Mine River 
 
 not bringdown any drift-wood ; nor doea any 
 
 other known stream, except Mackenzie's River; bence, 
 
 from its appearance on this part of the coast, an 
 
 erly currenl may be inferred. This evening we were 
 
 all in high glee at tin- progress we had made ; the 
 
 disappearance of the ice, ami the continuance of the 
 
 land in an eastern direction, and our future prospects 
 
 (uiuied an enlivening subjcci of conversation. The 
 
 . .meter varied during the day between 43° and 
 
 The fishing neis were set, hut produced nothing. 
 
 On the 22d we embarked at four A.M., and having 
 the hen' lit of a light breeze continued our voyage 
 along thecoast, under sail, until eleven, when we halt- 
 ed to breakfast, and to obtain the latitude. Thecoasl 
 1 1 1 » to this point presented the same general appear- 
 ance b lay, namely, a gravelly or sandy beach, 
 skirted by green plains ; hut as we proceeded, the 
 shore became excei dingly rocky and Bterile ; and, at 
 last, proj cting considerably to the northward, it form- 
 ed a high and Bteep promontory. Some Ice had drift- 
 ed down upon this cape, which we feared mighl check 
 our progi oing was fin . 
 tured upon pushing the canoes through the small 
 
 channels formed among it After pursuing this kind 
 
 9*
 
 202 Thirty Years 
 
 of navigation, with some danger and more anxiety, we 
 landed and encamped on a smooth rocky point ; from 
 whence we perceived, with much satisfaction, that the 
 ice consisted only of detached pieces, which would be 
 removed by the first breeze. We sounded in seven- 
 teen fathoms, close to the shore, this day. The least 
 depth ascertained by the lead, since our departure 
 from the river, was six fathoms ; and it m'ay be remark- 
 ed, that any ship might pass safely between the 
 islands and the main. The water is of a light green 
 color, 'but not very clear ; and it is much less salt than 
 that of the Atlantic, judging from our recollection of 
 its taste. In the course of the day we saw geese and 
 ducks with their young, and two deer ; and experien- 
 ced very great variations of temperature, from tho 
 light breezes blowing alternately from the ice and the 
 land. Tho name of " Lawford's Islands" was bestow- 
 ed on a group we passed in the course of Ihe day, as a 
 mark of my resjiect for Vice- Admiral Lawford, under 
 whose auspices I first entered the naval service. 
 
 A fresh breeze blowing through the night had 
 driven the ice from the land, and opened a channel of 
 a mile in width ; we therefore embarked at nine A.M. 
 to pursue our journey along the coast, but at the <lis- 
 tance "I' Dine miles were obliged (>> seek shelter i;i 
 Port Epworth, the wind having become adverse, ami 
 too strong t" admit of our proceeding. The Tree
 
 In the Ar\ 
 
 er of the Esquimaux, which discharges its wal 
 into this bay, appears to be narrow, ami much inter- 
 rupted by rapids. Tin: fishing-nets were ^<t, bui they 
 obtained only one white fish ami a few bull-hea 
 This part of the coast i-^ the mosl Bterile and inhospi- 
 table that can be imagined. One trap cliff suca 
 another with ;i tiresome uniformity, and their debris 
 cover tin 1 narrow valleys that intervene, to the exclu- 
 sion of every kind of herbage. From the summit of 
 these eliii's the ice appeared in every direction. 
 
 The wind abating, at eight P.M. we re-embarked, 
 and soon afterwards discovered, on an island, a rein- 
 deer, which the interpreters fortunately killed. 1! 
 Burning our voyage we were much impeded by the ; 
 and, at length, being unable to force a : 
 
 a close stream that had collected round a cape, we 
 put ashore at four A.M. On the 24th, several stone 
 
 fox-traps, and other traces of the Esquimaux, v 
 
 sen near to the encampment The horizontal refr - 
 tion varied bo much this morning, that the upper 
 limb of the sun twice appeared at the horizon l» I 
 
 it iinally i 
 
 For the last two days the water rose and fell about 
 nine inehes. The tides, however, seemed to be i 
 jular, and we could i: mine the directioi 
 
 the ebb or flood. A current setting to the eastward 
 
 was running about two miles an hour during our stay.
 
 204 Thirty Years 
 
 The ice having removed a short distance from the 
 shore, by eleven A.M. we embarked, and with some 
 difficulty effected a passage ; then making a traverse 
 across Gray's Bay* Ave paddled up under the eastern 
 shore against a strong wind. The interpreters landed 
 here, and went in pursuit of a deer, but had no suc- 
 cess. This part of the coast is indented by deep bays, 
 which are separated by peninsulas formed like wedges, 
 sloping many miles into the sea, and joined by low 
 land to the main ; so that often mistaking them for 
 islands, we were led by a circuitous route round the 
 bays. Cliffs were numerous on the islands, which 
 were all of the trap formation. 
 
 At seven, a thunder-storm coming on, we encamped 
 at the mouth of a river about eighty yards wide, and 
 set four nets. This si ream, which has received the 
 name of Wentzel, after our late companion, discharges 
 a considerable body of water. Its banks are sandy 
 and clothed with herbage. The Esquimaux had re- 
 cently piled up some drift timber here. A few ducks, 
 livens, and snow birds, were seen to-day. The dis- 
 t mce we made was thirty-one miles. # 
 
 July 25. — We had constant rain with thunder dur- 
 ing the night, The nets furnished only three salmon- 
 trout. We attributed the want of greater Buccess to 
 
 the entrance of 80016 seals into tie mouth of the i i\ i r. 
 
 Embarking at six A.M., we paddled againsl a cold
 
 In the Arctic R 205 
 
 until the spreading of a thick I 
 land. The rocka here consisted of a beautiful mixture 
 of red and gray granite, traversed from north to Bouth 
 by veins of red felspar, which were crossed in vari 
 directions by smaller vi ins filled with the Bame Bub- 
 Btance. 
 
 At noon the wind coming from a favorable qu 
 tempted as to proceed, although the fog was unabated. 
 We kept as close as we could to the main Bhore, but 
 having to i . it became a matter ol 
 
 doubt whether we had nol lefl the main, and were 
 running along an island. Jusl as v. adeavor- 
 
 ing to double a bold cape, the fog partially cleared 
 away, and allowed us an imperfect view of a chain of 
 islands on the outside, and of much heavy ice which 
 was pressing down* upon us. The shore near as 
 
 steep and rugged that no landing of the 
 could 1"' effected, and we were preserved only by some 
 men jumping on the rocks, and thrusting the ice off 
 with poles. There was ao alternative but to continue 
 along this dreary Bhore, Beeking a channel between the 
 different masses of ice which had accumulated at the 
 various points. In this operation both th 
 were in imminent danger of being crushed by the 
 which was now tossed ab iu1 by the waves that the 
 
 gale had exrit' d. We elh C 
 
 and keeping oloBe to the Bhore, landed at the entrance
 
 206 Thirty Years 
 
 of Detention Harbor at nine P. M., having come 
 twenty-eight miles. An old Esquimaux encampment 
 was traced on this spot ; and an ice chisel, a copper 
 knife, and a small iron knife were found under the 
 turf. I have named this cape after Mr. Barrow of the 
 Admiralty, to whose exertions are mainly owing the 
 discoveries that have recently been made in Arctic 
 geography. An opening on its eastern side has re- 
 ceived the appellation of Inman Harbor, after my 
 friend the Professor at the Koyal Naval College, 
 Portsmouth ; and to a group of islands to seaward of 
 it, we gave the name of Jameson, in honor of the dis- 
 languished Professor of Mineralogy at Edinburgh. 
 
 We had much wind and rain during the night, and 
 by the morning of the 26th a great deal of ice had 
 drifted into the inlet. "We embarked at four and at- 
 tempted to force a passage, when the first canoe got 
 enclosed, and remained for some time in a very peril- 
 ous situation ; the pieces of ice, crowded together by 
 the action of the current and wind, pressing strongly 
 against its feeble sides. A partial opening, however, 
 occurring, we landed without having sustained any 
 serious injury. Two mm were then sent round the 
 and it was ascertained thai instead of having 
 
 I a, narrow passage between an island and the 
 
 main, we were at the mouth of a harbor, having an 
 island at its entrance ; and that it was necessary to
 
 In the Arcti 207 
 
 let urn by the way we came, and get round a point to 
 the Dorthward. Thia was, however, impracticable, 
 hannel being blocked ap by drifl ice ; and we 
 had uo prospect ofreli pt by a change "I wind. 
 
 Thia detention was extremely vexatious, as we wi re 
 losing the benefit of a fair wind, and expending our 
 Btock of provision. In the afternoon the weather 
 cleared np, and several men went hunting, but they 
 were unsuccessful. During the day the ice 6 
 backwards and forwards in the harbor, moved by cur- 
 rents, not regular enough to des< rve the oame of tide, 
 and which appeared to be governed bythe wind. We 
 a diminution by melting in the pieces 
 mar ns. That none of this ice survives the summer 
 is i vi.lt nt. from the rapidity of its decay ; and because 
 no ice of Last year's formation was hanging on the 
 lurk-. Whether any body of it exists at a distance 
 from the Bhore, we cannot determine. 
 
 The land around Cape Barrow, and to Detention 
 Harbor, consists of steep craggy mountains of granite 
 rising bo abruptly from the water's ed idmit 
 
 of few landic even for a can",-. The higher 
 
 parts attain an elevation of one thousand four hundred 
 or cue thousand five hunch and the whole is 
 
 entirely destitute of vegetation. 
 
 On the morning of the 27th the ice remained 
 stationary at the entrance ; we went to the bottom of
 
 208 Thirty Years 
 
 the harbor, and carried the canoes and cargoes about 
 a mile and a half across the point of land that forms 
 the east side of it ; but the ice was not more favor- 
 able there for our advancement than at the place we 
 had left. It consisted of small pieces closely packed 
 together by the wind extending along the shore, but 
 leaving a clear passage beyond the chain of islands 
 with which the whole of this coast is girt. Indeed, 
 when w r e started we had little hope of finding a pas- 
 sage ; and the principal object in moving was, to em- 
 ploy the men, in order to prevent their reflecting upon 
 and discussing the dangers of our situation, which we 
 knew they were too apt to do when leisure permitted. 
 Our observations place the entrance of Detention 
 Harbor in latitude 67° 53' 45", longitude 110° 41' 
 20" W., variation 40° 49' 34" E. It is a secure 
 anchorage, being sheltered from the wind in every di- 
 rection : the bottom is sandy. 
 
 July 28. — As the ice continued in the same state, 
 several of the men were sent out to hunt ; and one of 
 them fired no less than four times at deer, but un- 
 fortunately without success. It was satisfactory, 
 however, to ascertain that the country was no1 desti- 
 tute of animals. We bad the mortification to dis- 
 cover that two of the bags of pemmican, which was 
 our principal reliance, bad become mouldy by wet. 
 
 Our beef, tfO, bad been BO badly cured, as to be
 
 Tn Hi> Arctic ff< Hon*. 209 
 
 eatable ; this was occasioned by our having 
 □ compelled, through haste, to dry it by fire instead 
 of the sun. It was not, however, the quality of our 
 provision thai gave us uneasiness, bul its diminution, 
 and the atter incapacity to obtain any addition. 8 
 were the only animals that met our view at thu 
 and these we could never approach, 
 
 Dr. Richardson discovered near the beach a small 
 vein of galena, traversing gni . and the people 
 
 collected a quantity of it in the hope of adding to our 
 
 k of balls; but their endeavors to smelt it, vi 
 as may be Bupp ised, ineffectual. The drift timbei 
 this part of the coast consists of pine and tacca mah 
 (poptdtu balsamifera) mosi probably from Macken- 
 zie's, or some other river to the eastward of the Cop- 
 It all appears to have lain long in the 
 water, the hark being completely worn off, and the 
 .•mis of the pieces rubbed perfectly smooth. There 
 was a sharp frosl last night, which formed a pi 
 thick trust of ice in a kettle of wat. r thai Btood in 
 tents ; and for several nighl thin films of ice 
 
 have been formed on the salt water among I 
 of stream ice.* Notwithstanding this state of tem- 
 perature, we were tormented by swarms of musqui- 
 
 ...• had persuaded o thai these ; 
 
 could not sustain the cold in the vicinity of the e 
 
 * Tl. •••a.
 
 210 Thirty Years 
 
 but it appears they haunt every part of this country 
 in defiance of climate. Mr. Back made an excursion 
 to a hill at seven or eight miles distance, and from its 
 summit he perceived the ice close to the shore as far 
 as his view extended. 
 
 On the morning of the 29 th the party attended di- 
 vine service. About noon the ice appearing less com- 
 pact, we embarked to change our situation, having 
 consumed all the fuel within our reach. The wind 
 came off the land just as the canoes had started, and 
 we determined on attempting to force a passage along 
 the shore ; in which we fortunately succeeded, after 
 seven hours' labor and much hazard to our frail ves- 
 sels. The ice lay so close that the crews disembarked 
 on it, and effected a passage by bearing against the 
 pieces with their poles ; but in conducting the canoes 
 through the narrow channels thus formed, (he great- 
 est care was requisite, to prevent the sharp projecting 
 points from breaking the bark. They fortunately re- 
 ceived no material injury, though they were split in 
 two places. 
 
 At the distance of three miles, we canie to ine en- 
 
 trance of a deep buy, whose bottom was filled by a 
 body of iee bo compact as to preclude the idea of a 
 
 6 through il ; whilst at tie' same time, the tra- 
 verse across its month was attended with linicli dan- 
 ger, from the approach of a large field of ice, which
 
 /// ( v. 21 1 
 
 was driving down before the wind. The dread of fur- 
 ther detention, however, prevented as from besitati 
 and we had the satisfaction of landing in an hour and 
 ;i half on the opposite Bhore, where we halted to re- 
 pair thi and to dine, i have named this bay 
 after my friend Mr. Daniel Moore of Lincoln's Inn ; 
 to whose seal for science, the Expedition was indebt- 
 ed for the use of a most valuable chronometer. T- 
 Bhores are picturesque : Bloping hills receding from 
 the beach, and clothed with verdure, bound its bot- 
 tom and western Bide ; and lofty cliffs of Blato clay. 
 with their intervening grassy valleys, skirt its eastern 
 border. Embarking at midnight, we pursued <»nr voy- 
 without interruption, passing between the Stock- 
 poH and Marcet Islands and the main, until six A.M. 
 on July 30th ; when having rounded Point Cater, we 
 iund, and were again involve,] in a 
 mi of ice, but after considerable delay extricated 
 oun ad proceeded towards the bol »m of the 
 inlet in search of the ni roth of a river, which we sup- 
 posed it to receive, from the change io the color of 
 the w 
 About tea A.M. we landed, to breakfast on a small 
 : which St. Germain had killed • and sent men in 
 pursuit of Borne others in Bight, but with which they 
 did not come ap. Re-embarking, >d the river 
 without perceiving it, la deep arm of the
 
 212 Thirty Years 
 
 sound ; which I have named Baillie's Cove, in honor 
 of a relative of the lamented Mr. Hood. As it was 
 too late to return, we encamped, and by walking across 
 the country, discovered the river, whose mouth beincr 
 barred by low sandy islands and banks, was not per- 
 ceived when we passed it. Course and distance from 
 Galena Point to this encampment, were S.E.fS. — 
 forty-one miles. 
 
 From the accounts of Black-meat and Boileau at 
 Fort Chipewyan, we considered this river to be the 
 Anatessy ; and Cape Barrow to be the projection 
 which they supposed to be the N.E. termination of 
 America. The outline of the coast, indeed, bears 
 some resemblance to the chart they sketched ; and 
 the distance of this river from the Copper-Mine, nearly 
 coincides with what we estimated the Anatessy to be, 
 from their statements. In our subsequent journey, 
 however, across the barren grounds, we ascertained 
 that this conjecture was wrong, and that the Anatessy, 
 which is known to come from Bum Lake, must fall 
 into the sea to the eastward of this place. 
 
 Our stock of provision being now reduced to eight 
 
 consumption, it had become a matter of the first, 
 
 importance <<> obtain a BUpply ; and as we had learned 
 
 from Terregannoauck that, the Esquimaux frequent 
 ile- rivers at this season, I determined on seeking ;i 
 communication with them here, with the view of ob-
 
 /// lit Arctic Regions. 213 
 
 taining relief for our present wants, or even shelti 
 the winter, if the Beason should prevent us from re- 
 turning either to the Book's party, or Fort Enter] 
 and 1 was the more induced to take this step at tliis 
 time, i .1 deer had been seen to-day, and the 
 
 river appeared L r "u ( ] for fishing ; which led me to Lope 
 we might Bupporl the party during our stay, it' nol 
 add to our stock by our <>w i us in hunting and 
 
 fishing. Augustus, Junius, and Eepburn, wen- there- 
 fore furnished with the necessary presents, and >l 
 
 along the hank of the river as far as they could, 
 on the following day, in search of the natives, to ob- 
 tain provision and leather, as well as information 
 respecting tfa 
 
 They started at four A.M., and at the same time 
 
 our hunters were sent off in search of deer ; and the 
 f the party proceeded in the canoes ti» the first 
 le in the river, at the foot of which we encamped, 
 and set four nets. This cascade, produced by a ridge 
 of rocks crossing the stream, is about three or four 
 feel in height, and aboul two hundred and fifty yards 
 wide. Its position by our observations is latitude 67* 
 \\> 23" N., longitude L09 '44'30" W., variation 41° 
 43'22 , ,dip88°58 , 48 M . 1 have named this rive- II •!. 
 as a small tribute t>> the memory of our lamented 
 friend and companion. It is from three to four hun- 
 dred yards wide below the cascade, hut it is in many
 
 214 Thirty Years 
 
 places very shallow. The banks, bottom, and adja* 
 cent hills, are formed of a mixture of sand and clay. 
 The ground was overspread with small willows and the 
 dwarf birch, both too diminutive for fuel ', and the 
 stream brought down no drift wood. We were morti- 
 fied to find the nets only procured one salmon and 
 rive white fish, and that we had to make another in- 
 road upon our dried meat. 
 
 August 1. — At two this morning the hunters re- 
 turned with two small deer and a brown bear. Au- 
 gustus and Junius arrived at the same time, having 
 traced the river twelve miles further up, without dis- 
 covering any vestige of inhabitants. We had now 
 an opportunity of gratifying our curiosity respecting 
 the bear so much dreaded by the Indians, and of whose 
 Strength and ferocity we had heard such terrible ac- 
 counts. It proved to be a lean male of a yellowish 
 brown color, and not longer than a common black 
 bear. It made a feeble attempt to defend itself, and 
 was easily despatched. The flesh was brought to the 
 tent, but our fastidious voyagers supposing, from its 
 leanness, the animal had been sickly, declined eating 
 it ; the officers, however, being ]r S s BCrUpuloUS, boiled 
 
 the paws, and found tliem excellent. 
 
 We embarked at ten A.M.. and proceeding down 
 the river, 1m. .k mi hoard another deer that had been 
 killed by Credit last evening We then ran along
 
 I n tin Artie //■ • 
 
 the eastern Bhore of Ar • d, distinguished by 
 
 the came of Bank's Peninsula, in honor of the I 
 Right Bonorable Sir Joseph Banks, President of the 
 Royal Society j and rounding Point Wbllaston at 
 eastern extremity, opened another extensive sheet of 
 water; and the remainder of the afternoon was spent 
 in endeavoring to ascertain, fr im the tops of the hills, 
 whether it was another bay, or merely a i en- 
 
 closed by a chain of islands. Appearances rather 
 ring the latter opinion, we determined on proceed- 
 through it to tli" southward. During the delay 
 four more deer were killed, all young and lean. It 
 appears that the coast is pretty well frequented by 
 reindeer at this season : but it is rather singular, that 
 hitherto we have killed none (excepting the first) but 
 young ones of last season, which were all too lean to 
 have been eaten by any hut persons who had no choice. 
 We paddled along the western shore w ith the inten- 
 tion of encamping, but were prevented from tin' want 
 of drift wood on the beach. This induced us to make 
 a traverse to an island, where we put up at midnight, 
 having found a small bay, whose shores furnished us 
 with a little fire-wood, A heav] imeonfrom 
 
 the westward, attended with constant rain, and one of 
 
 the Bqualls overthrew our tents. The course and dis- 
 tance made to-day were north-cast sixteen miles and 
 a half. I may here mention, that Arctic Sound ai£
 
 216 Thirty Years 
 
 pears to be the most convenient, and perhaps the best, 
 place for ships to anchor that we have seen along the 
 coast ; at this season especially, when they might in- 
 crease their stock of provision, if provided with good 
 marksmen. Deer are numerous in its vicinity, musk- 
 oxen also may be found up Hood's River, and the fine 
 sandy bottom of the bays promise favorably for fishing 
 with the seine. The hills on the western side are 
 even in their outline and slope gradually to the water's 
 edge. The rocks give place to an alluvial sandy soil, 
 towards the bottom of the sound ; but on Banks' 
 Peninsula rocky eminences again prevail, which are 
 rugged and uneven, but they are intersected by val- 
 leys, now green ; along their base is a fine sandy beach. 
 From Point Wollaston to our present encampment the 
 coast is skirted with trap cliffs, which have often a 
 columnar form, and are very -difficult of access. These 
 cliffs Lie in ranges parallel to the shore, and the deer 
 that we killed were feeding ip small marshy grassy 
 plats that lie in the valleys between them. 
 
 I',. in-; detained by tin 1 continuance of tin 1 gale, on 
 the 2d of August some men were sent out to hunt, 
 .-Mid the officers visited (he tops of the highest hills, 
 to ascertain the best channels to he pursued. The 
 wind abating at hii P.M., we embarked and paddled 
 round the southern end of the island, and continued 
 our course to the south-east. Much doubt at this
 
 Iii the Arctic R 217 
 
 time prevailed as to the land on the right being the 
 main slum', or merely ;i chain of islands. The Litter 
 opinion was strengthened by the broken appearai 
 of the land, and the extensive view we had up Brown's 
 Channel, (named after my friend Mr. Robert Brown,) 
 the mouth of which we passed, and were in some ap- 
 prehension of being led away from the main Bh< 
 and, perhaps, after passing througl up of islands, 
 
 of coming to a traverse greater than we durel venture 
 a in canoes. <m the other hand, the continuous 
 appearance of tl i the oorth ride of the chan- 
 
 nel, and its tending to the southward, | I a fear 
 
 licit we v ing a deep inlet. 
 
 In this state of doubt we landed often, and endea- 
 vored, from the summits oi the highest hills adjoining 
 
 the i ascertain the true nature of the coast, but 
 
 in vain, and we continued paddling through the chan- 
 nel all uighl against a fresh breeze, which, at half | 
 four, increased to a violei and compelled us to 
 
 land. The gale diminished a short time after noon 
 
 on the 3d, and permitted U8 to re-embark andcontil 
 our voyage until four P.M., wheo it returned with i;- 
 former \ ind finally obliged us to encamp, hav- 
 
 ing come twenty-four miles on a Bouth-easl three-quar- 
 ter south eon 
 
 From the want of drift wood to make a tire we had 
 
 d all day, and weir under the D in the 
 
 10
 
 218 Thirty Years 
 
 evening, of serving out pemmican, which was done 
 with much reluctance, especially as we had some fresh 
 deers' meat remaining. The inlet, when viewed from 
 a high hill adjoining to our encampment, exhibited so 
 many arms, that the course we ought to pursue was 
 more uncertain than ever. It was absolutely necessary, 
 however, to see the end of it before we could deter- 
 mine that it was not a strait. Starting at three A.M., 
 on the 4th, we paddled the whole day through chan- 
 nels, from two to five or six miles wide, all tending to 
 the southward. In the course of the day's voyage we 
 ascertained, that the land which we had seen on v our 
 right hand since yesterday morning, consisted of sev- 
 eral large islands, which have been distinguished by 
 the names of Goulburn, Elliot, and Young ; but the 
 land on our loft preserved its unbroken appearance, 
 and when we encamped, we were still uncertain whe- 
 ther it was the eastern side of a deep sound or merely 
 a large island. It differed remarkably from the main 
 snore, being very rugged, rocky, and sterile, whereas 
 the outline of the main on the opposite side was even, 
 and its hills covered with a comparatively good sward 
 . and exhibited little naked rock. There was 
 no drift timber, but the shores Dear the encampment 
 strewed with small pieces of willow, which indi- 
 cated our vicinity to the month of a river. This find 
 
 enabled us to make a hearty supper off a small deer 
 
 killed this evcnii
 
 the An tic E i 219 
 
 The shallow- to-day were I with 
 
 shoals of capelin, the angmaggoeiik of the Esquimaux. 
 It was known to Augustus, who informed us that it 
 uts the coast of Hudson's Bay, and is delicate 
 eating. The course ami distance made was Bouth by 
 east half east, thirty-three mi! 
 
 After paddling twelve miles in the morning <>(' the 
 5th, we had tin' mortification t<> find the inlet termi- 
 
 : by a river ; the Bize of which we could □ 
 certain, as the entrance was blocked by Bhoal . I 
 have named thia Btream Back, as a mark of my friend- 
 ship tor my associate. We were Bomewhat com 
 for th^ loss of time in exploring this inlet, by the 
 success of Junius in killing a musk-ox, the first we 
 had geen on tl ; and afterwards by tin: acquisi- 
 
 tion of the flesh of a hear, that was shot as we were 
 returning up tin- eastern Bide in the evening. The 
 latter proved to be a female, in very excellenl condi- 
 tion ; and our Canadian voyagers, whose appetite for 
 fat meal is insatiable, were delighted. 
 
 We encamped on the Bhoree indy bay, and 
 
 set tli>' nets ; and finding a quantity of dried willows 
 «,ii the beach, wo were enabled to cook the bear's 
 flesh, which was superior to any meal we had tasted 
 on thi 'l'l'" wal r P II two feet at this place 
 
 during the night Our nets produ eat variety 
 
 of fish, namely, a Balmon-trout, some round fish,
 
 220 Thirty Years 
 
 tittameg, bleak, star-fish, several herrings, and a flat 
 fish resembling plaice, but covered on the back with 
 horny excrescences. 
 
 On the 6th we were detained in the encampment by 
 stormy weather until five P.M., when we embarked 
 and paddled along the northern shore of the inlet ; 
 the weather still continuing foggy, but the wind mod- 
 erate. Observing on the beach a she bear with three 
 young ones, we landed a party to attack them ; but, 
 being approached without due caution, they took the 
 alarm and scaled a precipitous rocky hill, with a 
 rapidity that baffled all pursuit. At eight o'clock, 
 the fog changing into rain, we encamped. Many 
 seals were seen to-day, but as they kept in deep water 
 we did not fire at them. 
 
 On August 7th the atmosphere was charged with 
 fog and rain all the day, but as the wind was moderate, 
 we pursued our journey ; our situation, however, was 
 very unpleasant, being quite wet and without room to 
 
 Stretch a limb, much less to obtain warmth by exer- 
 
 We passed a cove, which 1 have named after 
 my friend Mr. W. II. Tinney j and proceeded along 
 the coast until live P.M., when we put up on a rocky 
 point nearly opposite to our encampment on the 3d, 
 having come twenty-three miles on a north-north-'. 
 
 colli 
 
 \\Y were detained on the 8th by n northerly gale,
 
 / the Arctic Regions, 221 
 
 which blew violently throughout the day, attended 
 by fog and rain. Some of the men went out to hunt, 
 but they saw no other animal than a white wolf, which 
 could not be approached. The fresh meal being ex- 
 pended, a little pemmican was served out this evening. 
 
 The gale abated on the morning of the 9th ; and 
 which it had raised, having greatly subsid 
 we embarked at Beven A.M., and after paddling three 
 or four miles, opened Sir •'. A- Gordon's Bay, into 
 which we penetrated thirteen miles, and then dis- 
 from the summil of a hill that it would 1"' 
 , t . pri cced in this direction, in Bearch of a ; 
 ou1 of the inlet. 
 
 Our breakfast diminished our provision to two bags 
 of pemmican, and a Bingle meal of dried meat. The 
 men began to apprehend absolute want of food, and 
 we had to listen to their gloomy forebodings of the 
 deer entirely quitting the coast in a few days. As we 
 wi re embarking, however, a large hear was discovered 
 on the opposite shore, which we had the go id fortune 
 to kill ; and the Bighl of this fet meat relieved their 
 fears for the present l>r. Richardson found in the 
 
 nach oi this animal the remains of a seal, several 
 
 marmots, a large quantity of the liquorice root of 
 Mackenzie, which is common on these Bhores, and 
 BOme berrie8. There was also intermixed with th 
 Bubstances a small quantil
 
 222 Thirty Years 
 
 We got again into the main inlet, and paddled 
 along its eastern shore until forty minutes after eight 
 A.M., when we encamped in a small cove. We found 
 a single log of drift wood ; it was pine, and sufficient- 
 ly large to enahle us to cook a portion of the bear, 
 which had a slight fishy taste, hut was deemed very 
 palatable. 
 
 August 10. — We followed up the east border of 
 the inlet about twenty-four miles, and at length emer- 
 ged into the open sea ; a body of islands to the west- 
 ward concealing the channel by which we had entered. 
 Here our progress was arrested by returning bad wea- 
 ther. We killed a bear and its young cub of this 
 year, on the beach near to our encampment. We 
 heartily congratulated ourselves at having arrived at 
 the eastern entrance of this inlet, which had cost us 
 nine invaluable days in exploring. It contains several 
 Beoure harbors, especially near the mouth of Back's 
 River, where there is a sandy bottom in forty fathoms. 
 There also fish are plentiful, and reindeer and ninsk- 
 Oxen may be procured at this season, by spending a 
 little time in hunting. 
 
 On the 3d and 4th <>f August we observed a tall ot 
 more than two feet, in the water during the night. 
 
 There are various irregular and partial currents in the 
 
 inlet, which may be attributed (<> the wind. I have 
 pushed it by the name Bathuret's Inlet, in lion-
 
 /// the Arctic /.'■ 
 
 or of the noble Secretary of State, under wb 
 I had the honor to act. It runs about seventy-sis 
 miles south-east from Cape Everitt, bul in coasting 
 its shores we went aboul one hundred and Beventy-fonr 
 geographical miles. It is remarkable thai noneofthe 
 Indians with whom we had spoken had mentii med this 
 inlet ; and we subsequently Learned, that in their jour- 
 
 they strike across from the mouth of one 
 to the mouth of another, without tracing the interme- 
 diate line of coast. 
 
 August 11. — Embarking at five A.M., we rounded 
 Point Everitt, and then encountered a strong breeze 
 and heavy swell, which by causing the Canoes to pitch 
 very much, greatly impeded our progress. Some deer 
 being zing in a valley near the 1" ach, we land- 
 
 oil, and sent St. Germain and Adam in pursuit of 
 
 them, who soon killed three which were very small 
 
 and lean. Their appearance, however, quite revived 
 tl spirits of our men, who had Buspected th . 
 
 deer had retired to the woods. It would appear, 
 our not ha\ ing seen any in passing along the shoi 
 Bathuret's Inlet, that at this season they confine them- 
 selves to the • ■ and the islands. The m 
 berries (arbutus alpina) were found quite ripe at this 
 
 . and very abundant on the aeelivit'a s of the hills. 
 
 We also . " the highest hill, and gained a 
 
 of a distant chain of islands, extending as far as the
 
 224 Thirty Years 
 
 eye could reach, and perceived a few patches of ice 
 still remaining near to some of them ; but in every 
 other part the sea was quite open. Eesuming our 
 voyage after noon, we proceeded along the coast, which 
 is fringed by islands ; and, at five P.M., entered ano- 
 ther bay, where we were for some time involved in our 
 late difficulties by the intricacy of the passages ; but 
 we cleared them in the afternoon, and encamped near 
 the northern entrance of the bay, at a spot which had 
 recently been visited by a small party of Esquimaux, 
 as the remains of some eggs, containing young, were 
 lying beside some half-burnt fire-wood. There were 
 also several piles of stones put up by them. I have 
 named this bay after my friend, Captain David Bu- 
 chan, of the Royal Navy. It appears to be a pale an- 
 chorage, being well sheltered from the wind and sea by 
 islands ; the bottom is sandy. Its shores are high, 
 and composed of red sand-stone. Two deer were seen 
 on its beach, but could not be approached. The dis- 
 tance we made to-day was eighteen miles and three- 
 quarters. 
 
 Embarking at four on the morning of the 12th, wo 
 proceeded against a fresh piercing north-east wind, 
 which raised the waves to a height thai quite terrified 
 our people, accustomed only to the navigation of rivers 
 and lakes. We were obliged, however, to persevere in 
 our advance, feeling, as we did, that the short s
 
 In the An 
 
 for our operations was hastening away; bnt afl 
 rounding Cape Croker the wind b og that 
 
 we could proceed no further. The distance we had 
 made being only six miles on a north-east by easl 
 course. The Bhore on which we encamped is formed 
 of the debris of red Band-stone, and Is destitute of vi 
 tatinu. Tlic beach fumishos no drift wood, and 
 dispensed with our usual meal rather than expend 
 our pemmican. Several deer ••■ d, but the hunt- 
 
 could not approach them : they killed two swans. 
 Weobserved the latitude 68* I 20", where we hall 
 to breakfast this morning. 
 
 L3. — Though the wind was not diminished, 
 we wen- urged, by the want of fire-wood, to venture 
 upon pi We jaddlcd close to the Bhore for 
 
 Borne miles, and then ran before the breeze with reefed 
 sails, ly two feet in depth. Both the canoes 
 
 ived much water, and one of them Btruck twit n 
 
 sunken rocks. At. the end of eighteen miles we halted 
 
 to breakfasl in a hay, which T have named after Vi 
 Admiral Sir William Johnstone Bope, one of the 
 Lords of the Admiralty. 
 
 We found here a considerable quantity of Bmall 
 willows, such as are broughl down by the rivers we 
 have hitherto seen ; and hence we judged, that a river 
 
 lt8elf into the bottom of this hay. A | 
 
 die was also found, which A on examination,
 
 226 Thirty Years 
 
 declared to be made after the fashion of the White 
 Goose Esquimaux, a tribe with whom his countrymen 
 had had some trading communication, as has been 
 mentioned in a former part of the Narrative. 
 
 This morning wo passed the embouchure of a pretty 
 large stream, and saw the vestiges of an Esquimaux 
 encampment not above a month old. Having obtained 
 the latitude 68° 6' 40" N., we recommenced our voy- 
 age under sail, taking the precaution to embark all the 
 pieces of willow we could collect, as we had found the 
 drift wood become more scarce as we advanced. Our 
 course was directed to a distant point, which we sup- 
 posed to be a cape, and the land stretching to the 
 westward of it to be islands ; but we soon found our- 
 selves in an extensive bay, from which no outlet could 
 be perceived but the one by which we had entered. 
 After examining, however, from the top of a hill, we 
 found a winding shallow passage running to the north- 
 west, which we followed for a short time and then en- 
 camped, having come twenty-three miles, north by 
 east half east. 
 
 Some articles left by the Esquimaux attracted our 
 attention ; we found a winter Bledge raised upon four 
 stones, with some snow-shovels, and a small piece of 
 
 whalebone. An ice-chisel, a knife, and some beads. 
 
 were left at this pile. The shores of this bay, which 
 I have named after Sir George Warrender, are low
 
 In the An I ' fl 
 
 and clayey, and the country for many miles lb 1' \ 
 and much intersected with water ; but we had not 
 It isure i" ascertain whether they wen- branches of the 
 bay or fresh- water lakes. Some whifc 
 tliis eveningj and some young grey ones were caught 
 tin the beach, being unable to fly. We fired a1 tw i 
 reindeer, but without bui i 
 
 On August 1-ttU we paddled the whole day a 
 tic northern Bhores of the sound, returning towards 
 mouth. The land which we were now tracing 
 
 flat, that it could not he described from 
 the canoes at the distance of four miles, and is invisi- 
 ble from tic opposite Bide of the sound, otherwise a 
 short traverse might have Baved u .lays. Tlie 
 
 few eminences that arc on this side were mistaken for 
 islands when seen from the opposite shore ; they are 
 tor the most part cliffs of basalt, and are not ah 
 
 One hundred t'eet high ; the BUbjacent strata are of 
 
 white sand-stone. Tic rocks are mostly confined to 
 the capes and shores, the soil inland being flat, cla; 
 and barren. Most of tin- headlands Bhewed ti 
 
 its from tic Esquimaux, hut none of them recent. 
 
 Many ducks n to-day, belonging to a 
 
 termed by tic voyagers, from their cry, "caccawa 
 
 \\'e also saw BOme grey 1 swans. The only 
 
 seal wo procured during our v IS killed : 
 
 dav ; it happened to he blind, and our men imagining
 
 228 Thirty Years 
 
 it to be in bad health, would not taste the flesh* ; we, 
 however, were less nice. 
 
 We encamped at the end of twenty-four miles' 
 march, on the north-west side of a bay, to which I 
 have given the name of my friend Captain Parry, now 
 employed in the interesting research for a North- West 
 Passage. Drift wood had become very scarce, and we 
 found none near the encampment ; a fire, however, 
 was not required, as we served out pemmican for sup- 
 per, and the evening was unusually warm. 
 
 On the following morning the breeze was fresh, and 
 the waves rather high. In paddling along the west 
 side of Parry's Bay, we saw several deer, but owing 
 to the openness of the country, the hunters could not 
 approach them. They killed, however, two swans 
 that were moulting, several cranes, and many grey 
 geese. We procured also some caccawees, which were 
 then moulting and assembled in immense ilocks. In 
 the evening, having rounded Point Beechy, and passed 
 Kurd's Islands, we were exposed to much inconveni- 
 ence and danger from a heavy rolling sea ; the canoes 
 ; v Bevere blows, and shipping a good 
 deal of water, which induced us to encamp at live 
 P.M. opposite to Cape Croker, which we had passed 
 onth-' morning of the L2th ; theohannel, which lay be- 
 tween our situation and it, being about Beven miles 
 wide. We had now reached the northern point i
 
 In the Arcti 
 
 trance into iliis Bound, which I have oamed in } n >m »r 
 of Lord Viscount Melville, the First Lord of the Ad- 
 miralty. It is thirty miles wide from east to v. 
 and twenty from north to south ; and in coa 
 we had Bailed eighty-seven and a quarter geographi- 
 cal miles. Shortly after the tenl Mr. 
 k reported from the steersmen that both 
 
 had sustained material injury during this day's VOJ 
 
 I found upon examination that fifteen til 
 first can m ■ oi them in two pla 
 
 and that the Becond canoe was so loose in th 
 that its timbers could not be bound in the usual 
 cure manner, and consequently there was danger of its 
 hark separating from the gunwales it' exposed to a 
 
 Distressing as were these circumst 
 they gave me less pain than the du that our 
 
 people, who had hitherto displayed, in following us 
 through dangers and difficulties no less novel than ap- 
 palling to them, a coura ad our expectati 
 now felt apprehensions for their safety, which 
 their minds that they w, : strained 
 evi n by the • of their officers from expressing 
 them. Their tear-, we imagined, had been principally 
 ted by the interpret! Germain and Adam, 
 
 who from the OUtset had foreboded every calamity ; 
 
 and we now Btrongly Buspected that 'their recent want 
 of success in their hunting excursions, had pr<
 
 230 Thirty Years 
 
 from an intentional relaxation in their efforts to kill 
 deer, in order that the want of provision might compel 
 us to put a period to our voyage. 
 
 I must now mention that many concurrent circum- 
 stances had caused me, during the few last days, to 
 meditate on the approach of this painful necessity. 
 The strong breezes we had encountered for some days, 
 led me to fear that the season was breaking up, and 
 severe weather would soon ensue, which we could not 
 sustain in a country destitute of fuel. Our stock of 
 provision was now reduced to a quantity of pemmican 
 only sufficient for three days' consumption, and the 
 prospect of increasing it was not encouraging, for 
 though reindeer were seen, they could not be easily 
 approached on the level shores we were now coasting, 
 besides, it was to be apprehended they would soon 
 migrate to the south. It was evident that the time 
 spent in exploring the Arctic and Melville Sounds, 
 and Bathurst's Inlet, had precluded the hope of* reach- 
 ing Repulse Bay, which at the outset of the voyage 
 we had fondly cherished ; and it was equally obvious 
 that as our distance from any of the trading establish- 
 ments would increase as we proceeded, (he hazardous 
 traverse across tin' barren grounds, which we should 
 have to make, if compelled to abandoD the canoes 
 upon any part of the coast, would become greater. 
 
 I this evening communicated to the officers my sen-
 
 In //,< An '•'• R j ' na. 23 1 
 
 timenta od these poii ting our re- 
 
 turn, and was happy to find that their opinions coin- 
 cided with my own. We were all convinced of the 
 necessity of putting a Bpeedy termination to our ad- 
 vancers the hope which we had cherished of meeting 
 Esquimaux and procuring provision from them, 
 conld now scarcely be entertained ; but yet we were 
 desirous of proceeding, until the land should l>e Been 
 trending again to the eastward ; that we might be 
 satisfied of its separation from whal we had conceii 
 in passing from Cape Barrow to Bathurst's Inlet, to 
 be a greal chain of islands. As it was necessary, 
 however, at all events, to sel a limit to our advance, 
 I announced my determination of returning after four 
 days examination, nnless, indeed, we should previous- 
 ly meet the Esquimaux, and be enabled to make 
 some arrangement for passing the winter with them. 
 This communication was joyfully received by the men, 
 
 and we hoped that the industry of Our hunt, rs being 
 
 once more i scited, we should be able to add to our 
 stock of provision. 
 
 It may here hi' remarked that we observed the firsl 
 
 ilar return of the tides in Warrender's and Parry's 
 
 Bays; but their set could not 1 lined. The 
 
 rise of tin- water did not amount to more than two 
 feet. Course to-dav south one quarter east — nine 
 miles and a quarter.
 
 232 Thirty Years 
 
 i 
 August 16. — Some rain fell in the night, but the 
 
 morning was unusually fine. We set forward at five 
 A. M., and the men paddled cheerfully along the coast 
 for ten miles, when a dense fog caused us to land on 
 Slate-clay Point. Here we found more traces of the 
 Esquimaux, and the skull of a man placed between 
 two rocks. The fog dispersed at noon, and we dis- 
 cerned a group of islands to the northward, which I 
 have named after Vice-Admiral Sir George Cockburn, 
 one of the Lords of the Admiralty. Ke- embarking, 
 we rounded the point and entered Walker's Bay, where, 
 as in other instances, the low beach which lay between 
 several high trap cliffs, could not be distinguished un- 
 til we had coasted down the cast side nearly to the 
 bottom of the bay. When the continuity of the land 
 was perceived, we crossed to the western shore, and 
 on landing, discovered a channel leading through a 
 group of islands. Eaving passed through this chan- 
 nel, we ran under sail by the Porden Islands, across 
 Riley's Bay, and rounding a cape which now bears the 
 name of my lamented friend Captain Flinders, had the 
 pleasure to find the coast, trending north-north-east, 
 with the sea in the oiling unusually clear of islands ; 
 a circumstance which afforded matter of wonder to our 
 Canadians, who had not previously had an uninter- 
 rupted \ iew of the ocean. 
 Our course was continued along the coast until
 
 /// the . In tic R 
 
 hen a change In the wind and a th 
 ening thunder Bquall induced u> to encamp ; but the 
 water was bo shallow, that we found some difficulty 
 in approaching the shore. Lai - of drift 
 
 gave us assurance that we had iinalK I from 
 
 the bays. Our tents were scarcely pitched before we 
 tiled by a heavy squall and rain, which was 
 i by a violent gale i 
 which thrice overset the tents in the course of the 
 The wind blew with equalviolence on the fol- 
 lowing day, and the sea rolled furiously upon the 
 beach. Tin- Canadians had now an opportunj 
 witnessing the effect of a storm upon tl ; and 
 
 the sight increased their desire of quitting it. 
 
 Our hunters w< re sent out, and Baw many deer, but 
 the flatness of tie.- country defeated their attemj 
 approach them ; they brought, however, a f w un- 
 ; As there was no appearance of in< 
 
 ing our Btock 01 provision, the allowance was limited 
 to a handful of pemmican, and a small portion of por- 
 i soup to each man per day. The thermometer 
 this aftern 1 at 41°, '\"n<- following oba 
 
 • obtained : latitude 68* L8 •'■ I N.. longi- 
 tude L10 .v i;, W. ; hut L09 
 in the q of the chart, as the chronometers 
 
 were found, on our return River, to have 
 
 altered their i i iation -1 .., and dip 
 
 of the needle 89° 31' L2".
 
 234 Thirty Years 
 
 On August 18th the stormy weather and sea con- 
 tinuing, there was no prospect of our being able to 
 embark. Dr. Kichardson, Mr. Back, and I, therefore, 
 set out on foot to discover whether the land within a 
 day's march, inclined more to the east. We went 
 from ten to twelve miles along the coast, which con- 
 tinued flat, and kept the same direction as the en- 
 campment. The most distant land we saw had the 
 same bearing north-north-east, and appeared like two 
 islands, which we estimated to be six or seven miles 
 off ; the shore on their inside seemingly trended more 
 to the east, so that it is probable Point Turnagain, 
 for so this spot was named, forms the pitch of a low 
 flat cape. 
 
 Augustus killed a deer in the afternoon, but the 
 men were not able to find it. The hunters found the 
 burrows of a number of white foxes, and Hepburn 
 killed one of these animals, which proved excellent 
 eating, esteemed by us as equal to the young geese, 
 with which it was boiled, and fir superior to the Iran 
 deer we had upon the coast. Large flocks of geese 
 passed over the tents, flying to the southward. The 
 lowest temperature to-day was 38°. 
 
 Though it will appear from the chart, that the posi- 
 tion (,| Point Turnagain is only six degrees and a, half 
 to the oast of the mouth of the Copper-Mine River; 
 ailed, in tracing the deeply-indented coast, live 
 hundred and fiftj five ■■■ ographic miles, which is little
 
 /. /,'• A\ lie Regions. 235 
 
 Less than the direct distance between ti. -Mine 
 
 an I B itter to be 
 
 in the Longitude assigned to it by Middleton. 
 
 When the many perplexing incidents which occ 
 during the survey of the coast are considered in 
 
 :i with the Bhortnesa of the {"rind, during which 
 operations of the kind can be carried on, and the dis- 
 tance we had to travel before we could gain a place ot 
 Bhelter for the winter, I trust it will be judged that 
 \w prosecuted the enterprize as far as was prudent, 
 and abandoned it only under a well-founded convi 
 
 i further advance would endanger the lives of the 
 whole party, and prevenl the knowledge of what had 
 
 from reaching England. The active i 
 ance I received from the officers, in contending with 
 tli-- fears of the men, demands my wannest gratitude. 
 Our researches as for as they have gone, Beem to 
 favor the opinion of those who contend for the practi- 
 cabilit; North-Wi .-' P T oeral line 
 
 of coast probably runs east and v rly in the 
 
 latitude e to Mackenzie's River, the Sound 
 
 into which Cotzebue entered, and Repn 
 very Little doubt can, in my opinion, 
 
 ■ inued * a, in or about that line 
 
 of direction. The ex: : whales, D this 
 
 part of the iced by the whali found 
 
 in Esquimaux Cove, may be i i as an 
 
 ment lor an open Bea ; and a . m with Hud-
 
 236 Thirty Years 
 
 son's Bay is rendered more probable from the same 
 kind of fish abounding on the coasts we visited, and 
 on those to the north of Churchill Kiver. I allude 
 more particularly to the Capelin or Salmo Arcticus, 
 which we found in large shoals in Bathurst's Inlet, 
 and which not only abounds, as Augustus told us, in 
 the bays in his country, but swarms in the Greenland 
 firths. The portion of the sea over which we passed 
 is navigable for vessels of any size ; the ice we met, 
 particularly after quitting Detention Harbor, would 
 not have arrested a strong boat. The chain of islands 
 affords shelter from all heavy seas, and there are good 
 harbors at convenient distances. I entertain indeed, 
 sanguine hopes that the skill and exertions of my 
 friend Captain Parry will soon render this question no 
 longer problematical. His task is doubtless an 
 arduousone, and, if ultimately successful, may occupy 
 two and perhaps three seasons; but coniiding as I do, 
 from personal knowledge, in his perseverance and 
 talent for surmounting difficulties, the strength of his 
 ships, and the abundance of provisions with which 
 they are Btored, I have very little apprehension of his 
 safety. As 1 understand his object was Id keep the 
 dl' America eh.se on board, lie will find in the 
 spring of the year, before the breaking up of the Lee 
 can permit him to pursue his voyage, herds of deer 
 ug in abundance t" all parts of the coast, \\ bich 
 may be procured without difficulty ; and, even later
 
 In the An tic Regions. 
 
 in the Beason, additions to hifl Btock of provision may 
 be obtained on many parts of the coast, hould cir- 
 cumstances give him to b< ad out hunting 
 parties. With the trawl or seine nets also, he may 
 almosl every where get abundance of fish even without 
 retarding his progress. ruder these circumstai 
 do not conceive that he runs any hazard of wanting 
 provisions, Bhould his voyage be prolonged 
 beyond the latest period of time which U calculated 
 apou Drift timber may be gathered at many places 
 
 and there is a fair pi 
 of his opening a communication with the Esquimaux, 
 who come down to the i I kill Beals in the Bpring, 
 previous t ice breaking upj and from whom, it' 
 
 he succeeds in conciliating their good will, he may 
 obtain provision, and much useful assistance. 
 
 If he makes for Copper-Mine River, as he probably 
 will do, he will not find it in the longitude as laid 
 down on the charts ; hut ho will probably find what 
 would ho more interesting to him, a post which we 
 erected on the 26th August at the mouth of Hood's 
 River, which is nearly, ; as will appear hereafter, in 
 that Longitude, with a flag upon it, and a letter at the 
 foot of it, which may convey to him E ful in- 
 
 formation. [1 ible, however, that he might 
 
 keep outside of t;. lands which skirt this 
 
 part of the coast
 
 238 Thirty Years 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 August 17. My original intention, whenever the season 
 should compel us to relinquish the survey, had been 
 to return hy the way of the Copper-Mine River, and, 
 in pursuance of my arrangement with the Hook to 
 travel to Slave Lake through the line of woods extend- 
 ing thither by the Great Bear and Marten Lakes, hut 
 our scanty stock of provision and the length of the 
 voyage rendered it necessary to make for a nearer 
 place. We had already found that the country, be- 
 tween Cape Barrow and the Copper-Mine River, would 
 not supply our wants, and this it seemed probable 
 would now he si ill more the case ; besides, at this ad- 
 vanced season, we expected the frequenl recurrence of 
 L;ales, which would cause great detention, if not dan- 
 ger in proceeding along that very rocky part of the 
 coast. 
 
 I determined, therefore, in make at once for Arctic 
 Sound, wh« re we hail found the animals inure numer- 
 ous than at any other place J and entering Bood's
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 
 
 River, to advance up thai stream as far as it was navi- 
 gable, ami then to construd Broall canoes out of the 
 materials ofthelai . which conld be carried in 
 
 [ng the barren grounds to Fori Enterprize. 
 August 19. — We were almost beaten ont of our 
 comfortless abodes by rain during the night, and this 
 morning the gale continued without diminution. The 
 thermometer fell to 3! o men were Bent with 
 
 Junius to search for the deer which Augustus had kill- 
 ed. Junius returned in the evening bringing part of 
 the meat, bul owing to the thickness of the weather, 
 his companions parted from him and did nol make 
 their appearance. Divine e rvice was read. On the 
 20th we were presented with the most chilling pros- 
 pect, the small pools of water being frozen over, the 
 ground being covered with snow, and the thermometer 
 at the freezing point at mid-day. Flights of 
 were passing to the southward. The wind however 
 was more moderate, having changed to the eastward. 
 Considerable anxiety prevailing respecting Belanger 
 and Michel, the two men who Btrayed from Junius 
 
 nt cut to Look for them. 
 The search Wl -sl'iil. and they all returned in 
 
 the i v( ning. The Btragglers were much fatigu d, and 
 had Buffered em verely from the cold, one of them hav- 
 ing his thighs frozen, and what under our circun 
 ces was most grievous, they had thrown away all the
 
 240 Thirty Years 
 
 meat. The wind during the night returned to the 
 north-west quarter, blew more violently than ever, and 
 raised a very turbulent sea. The next day did not 
 improve our condition, the snow remained on the 
 ground, and the small pools were frozen. Our hunt- 
 ers were sent out, but they returned after a fatiguing 
 day's march without having seen any animals. We 
 made a scanty meal off a handful of pemmican, after 
 which only half a bag remained. 
 
 The wind abated after midnight, and the surf di- 
 minished rapidly, which caused us to be on the alert 
 at a very early hour on the 22d, but we had to wait 
 until six A.M. for the return of Augustus, who had 
 continued out all night on an unsuccessful pursuit of 
 deer. It appears that he walked a few miles farther 
 along the coast, than the party had done on the 18th, 
 and from a sketch he drew on the sand, we were con- 
 firmed in our former opinion that the shore inclinecj 
 more to tl"' eastward beyond Point Turnagain. Be 
 drew a river of considerable size, that dis- 
 charges its waters into Walker's Bay ; on tin 1 banks 
 of which stream he saw a piece of wood, siieh as the 
 Esquimaux use in producing lire, and other marks so 
 
 that he supposed they had recently visited the 
 spot. We therefore left several iron materials for 
 them. < )ui- men, cheered by the prospeel of returning, 
 dnhailod with the utmost alacrity ; and, paddling
 
 In the Ari ' /•' 24 1 
 
 with unusual vigor, carried us across Riley's and 
 Walker's Bays, a distance of twenty miles before noon, 
 when we landed on Slate-Clay Point, as the wind had 
 freshened too much to permit as I me the voy- 
 
 age. The whole party went to hunt, but returne l 
 without in the evening, drenched with the 
 
 heavy rain which commenced soon after they had set 
 iJ deer v. could not be ap- 
 
 proached in this naked country ; and as our stock of 
 pemmican did not admit oi serving out two meals, we 
 went dinner! d.* 
 
 i alter our departure to-day, a sealed tin- 
 sufficiently buoyant to float, was thrown overhoard, 
 containing a shorl account of our proceedings, an I the 
 position of the most conspicuous points. The wind 
 blew off the land, the water was smooth, and as th- 
 is in this part more free from islands than in any 
 other, there was r\v\y probability of its being driven 
 off the slmre into the current ; which, as I have before 
 mentioned, we Buppose, from the circumstt 
 
 River being the only known stream that 
 
 brings down the wood we have found along the shoi 
 
 ' to the eastward. 
 
 23. — A sevei i frot t caused us. | . | 
 comfortless night. At 2 P.M. ■• ail, and the 
 
 men voluntarily Launched out to make 
 fifteen miles across Blelvill Bound, before a strong
 
 242 Thirty Years 
 
 wind and heavy sea. The privation of food, under 
 which our voyagers were then laboring, absorbed every 
 other terror ; otherwise the most powerful persuasion 
 could not, have induced them to attempt such a tra- 
 verse. It was with the utmost difficulty that the 
 canoes were kept from turning their broadsides to the 
 waves, though we sometimes steered with all the pad- 
 dles. One of them narrowly escaped being overset by 
 this accident, happening, in mid-channel, where the 
 waves were so high that the mast-head of our canoe 
 was often hid from the other, though it was sailing 
 within hail. 
 
 The traverse, however, was made ; we were then 
 near a high rocky lee shore, on which a heavy surf was 
 beating. The wind being on the beam, the canoes 
 drifted last to leeward ; and, od rounding a point, the 
 recoil of tin; sea from the rocks was so greal that they 
 were with difficulty kept from foundering. We looked 
 in vain for a sheltered bay to land in ; but. at length, 
 bi LDg unable io weather another point, we were obliged 
 to put ashore on the open beacli, which, fortunate!), 
 
 was sandy at this spot. The debarkation was effected 
 
 without further injury than the splitting of the head 
 
 of the second canoe, which was easily repaired. 
 
 Our encampment being near to the place where we 
 killed the deer on tic L lth, almost the whole party 
 
 went out io hunt, hut they returned in the evening
 
 In the Arctic H 
 
 without having Been any game. The berries, how- 
 ever, were ripe and plentiful, and, with the addition 
 of some country tea, furnished a supper. There were 
 some showeis in the afternoon, and the weather was 
 cold, the thermometer being 42°, but the evening and 
 night were calm and fine. It may 1m- remarked that 
 the musquitoes disappeared when the late galea com- 
 menced. 
 
 nisi 24. — Embarking at three A.M.. we stretch- 
 ed across tin' eastern entrance of Bathurst's [niet, and 
 arrived at an island, which I have named after I 
 nel Barry, of Newton Barry. Some deer being 
 mi the beach, the hunters went in pursuit of them, 
 and succeeded in killing three females, which enabled 
 us to save our Laal remaining meal of pemmican. 
 They saw also Borne fresh tracks of musk oxen on the 
 banks of a small stream, which flowed into a lake in 
 the centre of the island. These animals must have 
 crossed a channel, at least three miles wide, to reach 
 the nearest of these islands. Some specimens of varie- 
 ; pebbles and jasper were found here imbedded 
 in the aroygdaloidal rock. 
 
 Re- embarking at two P.M., and continuing tin 
 what was supposed to be a channel between two 
 islands, we found our passage barred by a gravelly 
 
 isthmus "l' "lily tin yards in width ; the ranees and 
 
 cargoes were carried acr — it. and we passed into
 
 244 Thirty Years 
 
 Bathurst's Inlet through another similar channel, 
 bounded on both sides by steep rocky hills. The 
 wind then changing from S.E. to N.W. brought heavy 
 rain, and we encamped at seven P.M., having advan- 
 ced eighteen miles. 
 
 August 25. — Starting this morning with a fresh 
 breeze in our favor, we soon reached that part of Bar- 
 ry's Island where the canoes were detained on the 2d 
 and 3d of this month, and contrary to what we then 
 experienced, the deer were now plentiful. The hunt- 
 ers killed two, and we were relieved from all appre- 
 hension of an immediate want of food. One would 
 suppose the deer were about to retire to the main 
 shore, from their assembling at this time in such num- 
 bers on the islands nearest the coast. Those we saw 
 were generally females with their young, and all of 
 them very lean. 
 
 The wind continued in the same direction until we 
 had rounded Point Wollaston, and then changed to a 
 quarter which enabled us to steer for Hood's River, 
 which we ascended as high as the first rapid, and en- 
 camped. Sere terminated our voyage on the Arctic 
 sea, during which we had gone over six hundred and 
 fifty geographical miles. Our Canadian voyagers 
 could not restrain their expressions of joy at having 
 turned their backs on the sen, and they passed the 
 evening talking over th<ir pasl adventures with much
 
 / ' ' i A , ■ id /,'. giona. 245 
 
 humor and do little i tion. The consideration 
 
 thai the most painful, and certainly the most hazard- 
 ous, pari of the journey was yet to come, did nol de- 
 press their spirits at all It is due to their charac- 
 ter i" mention that they displayed much courage in 
 encountering the dangers of the sea, magnified to them 
 l>y their novelty. 
 
 The Bhbres between Cape Barrow and Cape Flin- 
 ders, including the extensive branches of Arctic and 
 Melville Sounds, and Bathurst's [nlet, may be com- 
 prehended in one alf, which I have distinguish- 
 ed by the appellation of G I V.'t ( ronation 
 Gulf, in honor of His Mosl Gracious Majesty,the lat- 
 ter name bi ing added to mark the time of its discov- 
 ery. The Archipelago oi islands which fringe the 
 coast from Copp< r-Mine River to Poinl Turaagain, I 
 have named in honor of His Royal Bighness the Duke 
 Of York. 
 
 It may be deserving of notice, thai the extremes in 
 temperature of the sea water during our voya 
 53° and 35°,bu1 its general temperature was betv 
 
 - and 48°. Throughout our return from Point 
 Turnagain we observed that the sea had risen several 
 murks hit at our former encampments. 
 This may, perhaps, be attributed t<> the north-v* 
 gales. 
 
 August 26.— Previous to our departure this morn*
 
 246 Thirty Year* 
 
 ing, an assortment of iron materials, Leads, looking- 
 glasses, and other articles were put up in a conspicu- 
 ous situation for the Esquimaux, and the English 
 Union was planted on the loftiest sand-hill, where it 
 might be seen by any ships passing in the ofling. 
 Here also, was deposited in a tin box, a letter contain- 
 ing an outline of our proceedings, the latitude and 
 longitude of the principal places, and the course we 
 intended to pursue towards Slave Lake. 
 
 Embarking at eight A. M. we proceeded up the 
 river, which is full of sandy shoals, but sufficiently 
 deep for canoes in the channels. It is from one hun- 
 dred, to two hundred yards wide, and is bounded by 
 high and steep banks of clay. We encamped at a 
 cascade of eighteen or twenty feet high, which is pro- 
 duced by a ridge of rock crossing the river, and the 
 nets were set. A mile below this cascade Hood's Eiver 
 is joined by a stream half its own size, which I have 
 called . I ,unes' Branch. Bear and deer tracts had been 
 numerous on (lie banks of the river when we were here 
 before, but not a single recent one was to be seen at this 
 time. Credit, however, killed a small deer at some 
 distance inland, which, with the addition of berries. 
 
 furnished a delightful repast this evening. The 
 weather was remarkably fine, and the temperature so 
 mild, thai tlic musquitoes again made their appear- 
 ance, l » 1 1 1 not in any great numbers. Our distance 
 made to-dav was not mure than six miles,
 
 In the Arctit /.'• 247 
 
 The next morning the net furnished us witl 
 white fish and trout Saving made a further d 
 
 d work for the Esquimaux, we pursued our voy- 
 ip the river, but the shoals and rapids in this part 
 so frequent, that we walked along the hanks the 
 whole day, and the crews labored hard in carrying the 
 canoi a thus lightened over the Bhoalti them 
 
 up tli >ur journey in a direct lin< 
 
 about Beven miles. In the evening we encamped at 
 wer end of a narrow chasm through which the 
 river flows for upwards of a mil T • walls of this 
 chasm are upwards of two hundred feet high, quite 
 perpendicular, and in - only a few yards 
 
 apart. The river precipital into it over a i 
 
 forming two magnificent and picturesque falls cl 
 each other. The upper fall is about sixty feet high, 
 and the lower one at least one hundred, but perhaps 
 considerably more, for the Darrowness of the chasm 
 into which it fell prevented us from seeing its bottom, 
 and we could merely discern the top of the spray far 
 beneath our feet The lowi r fall is divided into 
 by an insulated column of rock which rises about 
 
 it. The whole descent of the river at this 
 place probabl • Is two hundred and 
 
 The rock is very fine f< Ispathoe It has a 
 
 smooth Bnrface and a light red color. I have named 
 these magnifi " Wilberforce Falls," as a
 
 248 Thirty Years 
 
 tribute of my respect for that distinguished philan- 
 thropist and Christian. Messrs. Back and Hood took 
 beautiful sketches of this majestic scene. 
 
 The river being surveyed from the summit of a hill, 
 above these falls, appeared so rapid and shallow, that 
 it seemed useless to attempt proceeding any farther in 
 the lanre canoes. I therefore determined on con- 
 
 O 
 
 structing out of their materials two smaller ones of 
 sufficient size to contain three persons, for the purpose 
 of crossing any river that might obstruct our progress. 
 This operation was accordingly commenced, and by 
 the 31st both the canoes being finished, we prepared 
 for our departure on the following day. 
 
 The leather which had been preserved for making 
 shoes was equally divided among the men, two pair of 
 flannel socks were given to each person, and such ar- 
 ticles of warm clothing as remained, were issued to 
 those who most required them. They were also fur- 
 nished with one of the officers' tents. This being 
 done, I communicated to the men my intention of 
 proceeding in as direct a course as possible to the part 
 of Point Lake, opposite to our spring encampment, 
 which was only distant one hundred and forty-nine 
 miles in a straight line. They received the communi- 
 cation cheerfully, considered the journey to be short, 
 
 and lefi me, in high spirits, to arrange their own 
 
 packages, The stores, books, &c, which were not
 
 /// the Arctic Reaions, 
 
 absolutely nea i be carried, were then put ap in 
 
 i" be l< it ( it each here, in « » r < 1 < ■ r that the men's 
 burdens mighl be as lighl as possible. 
 
 next morning was warm, and very fine. Every 
 one was mi tin- alert at au early hour, being anxious 
 to commence the journey. Our In ted of 
 
 ammunition, nets, hatchets, ice chi tronomical 
 
 instruments, clothing, blankets, three kettles, and the 
 inoes, which were each carried by one man. The 
 officers caiiieil such a portion of their own thin 
 their strength would permit ; the weighl carried by 
 cadi man was about ninety pounds, and with this we 
 advanced at the rate of about a mile an hour, including 
 In the evening the hunters killed a lean cow, 
 out ofalarge drove of musk-oxen ; but the nun were 
 
 tOO much laden to carry more than a small portion of 
 its flesh. The alluvial soil, which towards the mouth 
 of the liver Bpreads into plains, covered with grass 
 andwillows, was now giving place to a more barren 
 
 and hilly country; so that we could but just collect 
 
 sufficient brush wood to cook our Buppers. The part 
 
 of the river we skirted to-day was shallow, and flowed 
 over a bed of Band Ith aboul one hundred and 
 
 twenty yards, About midnight our tent was blown 
 down by a squall, and we mpletely drenched 
 
 with rain before it could he te-j. itched. 
 
 In the morning of the 1st of September ft full of
 
 250 Thirty Years 
 
 snow took place ; the canoes became a cause of delay, 
 by the difficulty of carrying them in a high wind, and 
 they sustained much damage from the falls of those 
 who had charge of them. The face of the country 
 was broken by hills of moderate elevation, but the 
 ground was plentifully strewed with small stones, 
 which, to men bearing heavy burdens, and whose feet 
 were protected only by soft moose skin shoes, occasion- 
 ed great pain. At the end of eleven miles we encamp- 
 ed, and sent for a musk-ox and a deer, which St. Ger- 
 main and Augustus had killed. The day was extreme- 
 ly cold, the thermometer varying between 34° and 36°. 
 In the afternoon a heavy fall of snow took place, on 
 the wind changing from north-west to south-west. 
 We found no wood at the encampment, but made a 
 fire of moss to cook the supper, and crept under our 
 blankets for warmth. At sun rise the thermometer 
 was at 31°, and the wind fresh from north-west ; but 
 the weather became mild in the course of the forenoon, 
 and the snow disappeared from the gravel. The after- 
 noon was remarkably fine, and the thermometer rose 
 to 50°. One of tin- hunters killed a musk-ox. The 
 hills in this part are lower and more round-backed 
 than those we pa terday, and exhibited bill lit- 
 
 tle naked rock ; they were covered with lichens, 
 
 I Ia\ ing ascertained from the sum mil- of the highest 
 hill near the tents, thai the rivci continued to preserve
 
 In the An ' '■' /.'■ 251 
 
 : and fearing that by pursuing it further 
 we might loose much time, and unnecessarily walk 
 over a great deal of ground, 1 determined on quitting 
 its banks the next day, and making as Erectly as we 
 could for Point Lake. We accordingly followed the 
 river on the 3d, only to the place where the musk-ox 
 had been killed last evening, and after the meat was 
 procured, I the river in our two canoes lashed 
 
 ber. We now emerged from the valley of the 
 river, and entered a level, but very ban-en country, 
 varied only by small lakes and marshes, the ground 
 being covered with small Bton< 3. Many old trai 
 rein-d i in the clayey boiI, and some more 
 
 recent ones of the musk-ox. We encamped "ii the 
 borders of Wright's River, which flows to the eastward ; 
 the direct distance walked to-day being ten miles and 
 three-quarters. The next morning was very fine, and 
 as the day advanced, the weather became quite warm. 
 t out at six A.M., and having forded the river, 
 walked over a perfectly level country, interspersed with 
 small lakes, which communicated with each other, by 
 streams running in various directions. No berry-bear- 
 ing plants were found in tins part, the surface of the 
 earth being thinly covered in the moister places with 
 a i i i, and <>n the drier spots with lichens. 
 
 Saving walked twelve miles and a half, we encamp- 
 ed al seven r.M.. and distributed our last
 
 252 Thirty Years 
 
 pemmican, and a little arrow-root for supper, which 
 afforded hut a scanty meal. This evening was warm, 
 hut dark clouds overspread the sky. Our men now 
 began to fijid their burdens very oppressive, and were 
 much fatigued by this day's march, but did not com- 
 plain. One of them was lame from an inflammation in 
 the knee. Heavy rain commenced at midnight, and 
 continued without intermission until five in the morn- 
 ing, when it was succeeded by snow on the wind 
 changing to north-west, which soon increased to a vio- 
 lent gale. As we had nothing to eat, and were desti- 
 tute of the means of making a fire, we remained in 
 our beds all the day ; but the covering of our blankets 
 was insufficient to prevent us from feeling the severity 
 of the frost, and suffering inconvenience from the d lilt- 
 ing of the snow into our tents. There was no abate- 
 ment of the storm the next day ; our tents were com- 
 pletely frozen, and the snow had drifted around them 
 to a depth of three feet, and even on the inside there 
 was a covering of several inches on our blankets. Our 
 suffering from cold, in a comfortless canvass tent in 
 Buch weather, with the temperature at 20°, and with- 
 out lire, will easily be imagined ; it was, however, less 
 
 than that which we felt from hunger, 
 
 The morning of the 7th cleared up a littlo, bul the 
 wind was still Btrong, and the weather extremely cold. 
 From the unusual continuance of the storm, we feared
 
 In the drctv /■'■ i 253 
 
 the winter had Bet in with all its rigor, and thai by 
 longer delay we Bhould only b 1 to an accumu- 
 
 lation of difficulties ; we therefore prepa our 
 
 journey, although we were in a very unfit condition 
 for starting, being weak from fasting, and our gar- 
 ments stiffened by the frost. We had no means 
 of making a fire to thaw them, the moss, at all tii 
 difficult to kindle, being now covered with ice and 
 A i msiderable time was consumed in packing 
 up the frozen tents and bed clothes, the wind Mowing 
 trong that no one could keep his hands long out of 
 his mittens. 
 
 .In-! as we were about to commence our march, I 
 was Beized with a fainting fit, in consequence of ex- 
 haustion and Budden i zposure to the wind ; but 
 after eating a morsel of portable soup, I recovered, 
 far as tn be able to move on. I was unwilling at first 
 to take this morsel of Boup, which was diminishing 
 the small and only remaining meal of the party ; but 
 several of the m< n urged me to it, with much kindm 
 The ground was covered a foot deep with Bnow, the 
 margin of the lakes was Lncrusted with toe, and the 
 swamps over which we had to pa entirely 
 
 but the ice not being sufficiently Btrong to 
 [uently plunged knee-deep in water. 
 Those who carried the canoes were repeatedly blown 
 down by the violence of the wind, and they often fell,
 
 254 Thirty Years 
 
 from making an insecure step on a slippery stone ; on 
 one of these occasions, the largest canoe was so much 
 broken as to be rendered utterly unserviceable. This 
 was felt as a serious disaster, as the remaining canoe 
 having through mistake been made too small, it was 
 doubtful whether it would be sufficient to carry us 
 across a river. Indeed we had found it necessary in 
 crossing Hood's Kiver, to lash the two canoes together. 
 As there was some suspicion that Benoit, who carried 
 the canoe, had broken it intentionally, he having on a 
 former occasion been overheard by some of the men to 
 say, that he would do so when he got it in charge, we 
 closely examined him on the point ; he roundly denied 
 having used the expressions attributed to him, and 
 insisted that it was broken by his falling accidentally ; 
 and as he brought men to attest the latter fact, who 
 saw him tumble, we did not press the matter further. 
 I may here remark, that our people had murmured a 
 good deal at having to carry two canoes, though they 
 were Informed of the necessity of taking both, in case 
 it should be deemed advisable to divide the party ; 
 which it had been thought probable we should he 
 obliged to do, if animals proved BCarce, in order to 
 give the whole the better chance of procuring bud- 
 
 si-1' cce, and also for the purpose of Bending forward 
 BOme of the best walkers to search lor Indians, and to 
 
 get them f<> nicei ns witli supplies of provision. The
 
 Tn the Arci 255 
 
 power of doing this was now at an end. As the ■• 
 dent could not be remedied, we turned II to the I 
 account, by making a fire of the bark and timbei 
 the broken vessel, and cooked the remainder of our 
 portable Boup and arrow-root This was a Bcanty 
 meal after three days' fasting, but it Berved to allay 
 the pangs of hunger, and enabled us to proceed at a 
 quicker pace than before. The depth of the Bnow 
 caused ua to march in [ndian file, that is, in each 
 oth< : the voyagers taking it in turn to lead 
 
 the party. A distant objed was pointed out to this 
 
 man in the direction we wished to take, ami Mr. Hood 
 followed immediately behind him, to renew the bear- 
 ings, and keep him from deviating more than could be 
 helped from the mark. It may be here observed, that 
 we proceeded in this manner throughout our route 
 across the barren grounds. 
 
 In the afternoon we go! into a more hilly country, 
 where the ground was strewed with large stones. T 
 Burface of these was covered with lichens of the genua 
 gyropkorcij which tin- Canadians term tripe <l< roche. 
 A considerable quantity was gathered, and with half 
 a partridge each, (which were shot in the course of the 
 day.) furnished us with a Blender Bupper, which we 
 cooked with a few willows, dug up from beneath the 
 deep snow. We passed a comfortless night in our 
 damp clothes, hut took the precaution ing
 
 256 Thirty Tears 
 
 upon our socks and shoes to prevent them from freez- 
 ing. This plan was afterwards adopted throughout 
 the journey. 
 
 At half-past five in the morning we proceeded ; and 
 after walking about two miles, came to Cracroft's Eiv- 
 er, flowing to the westward, with a very rapid current 
 over a rocky channel. We had much difficulty in 
 crossing this, the canoe being useless, not only from 
 the bottom of the channel being obstructed by large 
 stones, but also from its requiring gumming, n *> opera- 
 tion which, owing to the want of wood and the irost, 
 we were unable to perform. However, after following 
 the course of the river some way, we effected a pass- 
 age by means of a range of large rocks that crossed a 
 rapid. As the current was strong, and many of the 
 rocks were covered with water to the depth of two or 
 three feet, the men were exposed to much danger in 
 carrying their heavy burdens across, and several of 
 them actually slipped into the stream, but were im- 
 mediately rescued by the others. Junius went farther 
 up the river in search of a better crossing place, and 
 did not rejoin us to-day. As several of the [tarty were 
 drenched from head to (not, and we wire all wet to 
 the middle, our clothes became stiffs ith the frost, and 
 we walked with much pain lor the remainder of the 
 day. The march was continued to a late hour, being 
 
 anxious to rejoin the hunters who had gone before, hut
 
 In the Arctic Regv 
 
 we were obliged to encamp at the end of ten miles and 
 a quarter, without seeing them. Our only meal to- 
 day consisted of ;i partridge cadi, (which the hunters 
 Bhot,) mixed with tripe <l< This repast, 
 
 although scanty for men with appetites Bnch a 
 daily fatigue created, proved a cheerful one, and was 
 received with thankfulness. Most of the men had to 
 Bleep in the open air, in consequence of the absence 
 of Credit, who carried their tent ; bul we fortunately 
 found an unusual quantity of roots to make a fire, 
 which prevented their Buffering much from the 
 though the thermometer was at 17°. 
 
 We started at six on the 9th, and at the end of two 
 miles regained our hunters, who were halting on the 
 borders of a lake amidst a clump of stunted willows. 
 This lake stretched to the westward as far as we could 
 and its waters were discharged by a rapid Btream 
 one hundred and fifty yards wide. Being entirely ig- 
 noranl where we mighl be led by pursuing the course 
 of the lake, and dreading the idea of going a mile un- 
 tidy out of the way, we d< ti rmim d on crossing 
 the river if possible ; and the canoe was gummed for 
 the i urp< Be, the willows furnishing us with lire. But 
 we bad to await the return of Junius 1" fore we could 
 the traverse. In the mean time we gathered a 
 
 little In) . ami breakfasted upon it and a 
 
 few partridges that were killed in the morning. St,
 
 2§8 Thirty Years 
 
 Germain and Adam were sent upon some recent tracks 
 of deer. Junius arrived in the afternoon, and inform- 
 ed us that he had seen a large herd of musk-oxen on 
 the banks of Cracroft's Kiver, and had wounded one 
 of them, but it had escaped. He brought about four 
 pounds of meat, the remains of a deer that had been 
 devoured by the wolves. The poor fellow was much 
 fatigued, having walked throughout the night, but as 
 the weather was particularly favorable for our crossing 
 the river, we could not allow him to rest. After he 
 had taken some refreshment we proceeded to the river. 
 The canoe being put into the water was found extreme- 
 ly ticklish, but it was managed with much dexterity 
 by St. Germain, Adam, and Peltier, who ferried over 
 one passenger at a time, causing him to lie flat in its 
 bottom, by no means a pleasant position, owing to its 
 leakiness, but there was no alternative. The transport 
 of the whole party was effected by five o'clock, and we 
 walked about two miles further, and encamped, hav- 
 ing come five miles and three-quarters on a south-west 
 course. Two young alpine hares were shot by St. 
 ( rermain, which, with the small piece of meat brought 
 
 in by '1 minis, furnish* (3 the supper of the whole party. 
 
 There was no tripe d* roche here. The country had 
 now become decidedly hilly, and was covered with 
 snow. The lake preserved its western direction, as 
 far as I could sec fiom the summit, of the highest
 
 y /( the Arctic Begl 
 
 mountain near th«- encampment. We subsequently 
 learned from the Copper Indians, thai the pari at 
 which we had cr — 'I the river was the Congecatha 
 tvha chaga of Beanie, of which I had little idea at the 
 time, not only from the difference of latitude, but a 
 from its being so much farther cast of the mouth of 
 the Copper-Mine River, than his track is laid down. 
 He only making one degree and three-quarters differ- 
 ence of longitude, and we upwards of four. Had 1 
 been aware of ti il days' harassing march, 
 
 and a disastrous accident would have been prevented 
 by keeping on the western Bide of the lake, instead ol 
 crossing the river. We were informed also, that this 
 river is the Anatessy, or Riverof Strangers, and is sup- 
 ,1 to fall into Bathu ' ; but although the 
 
 Indians have visited its mouth, their description was 
 not sufficient to identify it with any of the rivers wh 
 mouths we had Been. It probably tails in that part 
 of the coast which was hid from our view by Goul- 
 blirn's or Elliot's Islands. 
 
 September 1<>. — We had a cold north wind, and the 
 atmosphere The thermometer I s " al five 
 
 A.M. In the course of our march this morning, we 
 passed many -mall lakes ; and the ground, becoming 
 
 ;her and more hilly I d from tin- river. 
 
 w.i> c >vered to a much greater depth with snow. 
 This rendered walking not only extremely laborious,
 
 260 TJiirty Tears 
 
 but also hazardous in the highest degree ; for the 
 sides of the hills, as is usual throughout the barren 
 grounds, abounding in accumulations of large angular 
 stones, it often happened that the men fell into the 
 interstices with their loads on their backs, being de- 
 ceived by the smooth appearance of the drifted snow. 
 If any one had broken a limb here, his fate would 
 have been melancholy indeed ; we could neither have 
 remained with him, nor carried him on. We halted 
 at ten to gather tripe de roclie, but it was so frozen, 
 that we were quite benumbed with cold before a suffi- 
 ciency could be collected even for a scanty meal. On 
 proceeding, our men were somewhat cheered, by ob- 
 serving on the sandy summit of a hill, from whence 
 the snow had been blown, the summer track of a man ; 
 and afterwards by seeing several deer tracks on the 
 snow. About noon the weather cleared up a little, 
 and, to our great joy, we saw a herd of musk-oxen 
 grazing in a valley below us. The party instantly 
 baited, and the best hunters were sent out ; they ap- 
 proached the animals with the utmost caution, no less 
 than two hours being consumed before they got within 
 gun-shot. In the meantime we beheld their proceed- 
 ings with extreme anxiety, and many secret prayers 
 were, doubtless, offered up for their success. At 
 length they opened their fire, and we had the satisfac- 
 tion of seeing .me of the largest cows fall; another
 
 /// the Arctic fii 
 
 wounded, bul This buc© bs infused 
 
 spirit into our starving party. To skin and cat up 
 the animal was the work of a few minutes. The c »n- 
 i rats of its Btomach were devoured n j>< >n the Bpot, and 
 the raw intestines, which were next attacked, ••• 
 pronounced by the - licate amon< be 
 
 excellent. A few willows, wh< 
 
 ping through the snow in the : ley, 
 
 were quickly grubbed, the tents pitched, and supper 
 ( ked, and devoured with avidity. This was the 
 
 th day since we had had a good raeaL The I 
 roch . even where we got enough, only serving to allay 
 the pangs of hunger for a short time. After Bupper, 
 two of the hunters went in pursuit of the herd, but 
 could not get Dear them. 
 
 We were detained all the next day by a Btrong 
 southerly wind, and were much incommoded in the 
 tents by the drift snow. The temperature was i >|,v- '. 
 The average for the last ten days about 24 5°. We 
 1 ourselves to one meal to-day as we were al 
 rest, and there was only meat remaining sufficient for 
 the next day. 
 
 had not diminished on the 1:2th, and, as we 
 were fearful of its continuance for Borne time, we de- 
 termined "i! going forward ; our only doubl n 
 the preservation oi the canoe, but the men promised 
 to pay particular attention to it, and the most careful
 
 262 Thirty Years 
 
 persons were appointed to take it in charge. The 
 snow was two feet deep, and the ground much broken, 
 which rendered the march extremely painful. The 
 whole party complained more of faintness and weak- 
 ness than they had ever done before ; their strength 
 seemed to have been impaired by the recent supply ot' 
 animal food. In the afternoon the wind abated, and 
 the snow ceased ; cheered with the change, we pro- 
 ceeded forward at a quicker pace, and encamped at 
 six P.M., having come eleven miles. Our supper con- 
 sumed the last of our meat. 
 
 We set out on the 13 th, in thick hazy weather, 
 and, after an hour's march, had the extreme mortifica- 
 tion to find ourselves on the borders of a large lake, 
 which we subsequently learned from the Indians was 
 named Contwoy-to, or Hum Lake; neither of its ex- 
 tremities could be seen. As the portion which lay to 
 the east seemed the widest, we coasted along to the 
 westward portion in search of a crossing-place This 
 Like being hounded by steep and Lofty hills, <mr march 
 
 was very fatiguing. Those sides which were exposed 
 
 to the sun were free from snow, and we found upon 
 them some exi ellenl berries. We encamped at six P. 
 
 M., having come only six miles and a hall'. Credit 
 
 then missing, and he did doI return during the 
 eight. We Bupped off :i single partridge and some 
 tripe de roche ; (his unpalatable weed was now quite
 
 Jn (In Artie Regions. 
 
 naut the whole party, and in Beveral it produ 
 
 bowel complaints. Mr. Eood was the I Buffer' 
 
 i r from this cans.'. This evening we were extremely 
 distressed at discovering thai our improvident com- 
 panions, since we lefl Hood's River, had thrown away 
 three of the fishing nets, and burnt the i they 
 
 knew we had brought them to procure subsistence for 
 the party, when the animals should fail, and we could 
 ■ cly believe the fact of their having wilfully de- 
 prived themselves of this resource, especially when wi 
 considered that mosl of them had passed the 
 part of their servitude in situations where the nets 
 alone had supplied them with food. Being thus de- 
 prived of our principal resource, that of fishing, ami 
 the men evidently getting weaker every day, it became 
 necessary t<> lighten their burdens of every thing 
 except ammunition, clothing, and the instruments 
 that were required to find our way. I, theref 
 issued directions to deposit at this encampment the 
 dipping needle, azimuth compass, magnet, a Lai 
 thermometer, and a lew hooks we had carried, having 
 torn nut of these Buch parts as we Bhould requin 
 work the observations for latitude and longitude. I 
 1. as an excitement to the efforts in hunt- 
 ing, my gun to St. Germain, and an ample compel 
 
 (ion to Adam, or any of the other men who Bhould kill 
 
 any animals, Mr. Hood, on this occasion, lent his
 
 264 Thirty Years 
 
 gun to Michel, the Iroquois, who was very eager in 
 the chase, and often successful. 
 
 Scptemher 14. — This morning the officers being as- 
 sembled round a small fire, Perrault presented each 
 of us with a small piece of meat which he had saved 
 from his allowance. It was received with great thank- 
 fulness, and such an act of self-denial and kindness, 
 being totally unexpected in a Canadian voyager, filled 
 our eyes with tears. In directing our course to a river 
 issuing from the lake, we met Credit, who communi- 
 cated the joyful intelligence of his having killed two 
 deer in the morning. We instantly halted, and hav- 
 ing shared the deer that was nearest to us, prepared 
 breakfast. After which, the other deer was sent for, 
 and we went down to the river, which was about three 
 hundred yards wide, and flowed with great velocity 
 through a broken rocky channel. Having searched 
 for a part where the current was most smooth, the 
 canoe was placed in the water at the head of a rapid, 
 and St. Germain, Solomon, Belanger, and I, embarked 
 in order to cross. We went, from the shore very well, 
 but in mid-channel the canoe became difficult to man- 
 age under our burden, as the breeze was fresh. The 
 Current drove us to the edge of the rapid, when l'e- 
 
 langer unfortunately applied his paddle to avert the 
 apparenl danger of being forced down ii, and lost his 
 balance The canoe was overset in cone quenoe in
 
 In (he . ' >H8. 
 
 the middle of the rapid. We fortunately kept hold 
 of it, until we touched a rock where the water did not 
 reach higher than onr waists ; here we kept our 1" 
 ing, notwithstanding the strength of the current, un- 
 til the water was emptied out of the canoe. Belanger 
 then held the cai ly whilst main placed 
 
 me in it, and afterwards embarked himself in a very 
 dexterous manner. It was iqj possible, however, to 
 embark Belanger, as the canoe would have been hur- 
 ried down the rapid, the momenl he should fa 
 raised his fool from the ruck on which he stood. Wo 
 were, therefore, compelled to leave him in his perilous 
 situation. We had nol gone twenty yards before the 
 canoe, striking on a sudden rock, went down.- The 
 plaee being shallow, we were again enabled to empty 
 
 it, and the third attempt brought US to the shore. In 
 
 the mean time Belanger was suffering extremely, im- 
 mersed to his middle in the centre of a rapid, the tem- 
 perature of which was very little above the freezing 
 
 point, and the upper part of his body covered with 
 
 wet clothes,! in a temperature notmuchabove 
 
 zero, to a Btrong breeze. Ee called piteously for re- 
 lict", and St. Germain on bis return endeavored to cm- 
 hark him, hut in vain. The canoe was hurried down 
 the rapid, and when he landed he was rendered by the 
 odd incapable ,^' further exertion, and Adam attempt- 
 
 abark Belanger, butfound it impossible \-\
 
 266 Thirty Tears 
 
 attempt was next made to carry out to him a line, 
 made of the slings of the men's loads. This also 
 failed, the current acting so strongly upon it, as to 
 prevent the canoe from steering, and it was finally 
 broken and carried down the stream. At length, 
 when Belanger's strength seemed almost exhausted, 
 the canoe reached him with a small cord belonging to 
 one of the nets, and he was dragged perfectly sense- 
 less through the rapid. By the direction of Dr. Bich- 
 ardson, he was instantly stripped, and being rolled 
 up in blankets, two men undressed themselves and 
 went to bed with him ; but it was some hours before 
 he recovered his warmth and sensations. As soon as 
 Belanger was placed in his bed, the officers immedia- 
 tely sent over my blankets and a person to make a 
 fire. Augustus brought the canoe over, and in return- 
 ing he was obliged to descend both the rapids, be- 
 fore he could get across the stream ; which hazardous 
 service he performed with the greatest coolness and 
 judgment. Et is impossible to describe my sensations 
 as I witnessed the various unsuccessful attempts to 
 relieve Belanger. The distance prevented my seeing 
 
 distinctly what was going on, and I continued pacing 
 Up and down upon the rock on which 1 landed, reganl- 
 
 less of the coldness of my drenched and stiffening gar- 
 ments. The • is every attempt to reach him, 
 urrii il (1 wn the rapid, and was LosJ to thi
 
 / /'• Ard 'tis. 
 
 amongst the rocky islets, with a rapidity that seemed 
 to threaten certain destruction : once, indeed, I fan- 
 cied that I Baw it overwhelmed in the waves. Buch 
 an event would have been fatal to the whole party. 
 Separated as I was from my companions, withom gun, 
 ammunition, hatchet, or the means of making a fire, 
 and in wet clothes, my doom would have been speedily 
 sealed. My companions too, driven to the nee 
 of coasting the lake, must have sunk under the t , 
 of rounding its innumerable arms and bays, which, as 
 we have learned from the [ndians, are very extensive. 
 By the goodness of Providence, hov were 
 
 1 at that time, and Borne of us have been permit- 
 ted to offer up our thanksgivings, in a civilized land, 
 for the signal deliverances we thru and afterwards ex- 
 perienced. 
 
 By this accid* nl 1 had the misfortune to loose my 
 port-folio, containing my journal from Fort Eoterprize, 
 together \\ith all the astronomical and i 
 observations made during the descent of the Copper- 
 Mine River, and along the it, (except tli 
 the dip and variation.) I was in the habit of carry- 
 ing it strapped across my shoulders, but had tjik- n it 
 off on entering the canoe, t«> reduce the upp< r weight. 
 The results of most of the observations for latitude 
 and longitude had been n gistered in the sketch ! 
 so that we preserved the requisites for the construe*
 
 268 Thirty Years 
 
 tion of the chart. The meteorological observations, 
 not having been copied, were lost. My companions, 
 Dr. Richardson, Mr. Back, and Mr. Hood, had been 
 so careful in noting every occurrence in their journals, 
 that the loss of mine could fortunately be well sup- 
 plied. These friends immediately offered me their 
 documents, and every assistance in drawing up another 
 narrative, of which kindness I availed myself at the 
 earliest opportunity afterwards. 
 
 September 15. — The rest of the party were brought 
 across this morning, and we were delighted to find 
 Belanger so much recovered as to be able to proceed, 
 but we could not set out until noon, as the men had 
 to prepare substitutes for the slings which wen; lost 
 yesterday. Soon alter leaving the encampment we 
 discerned a herd of deer, and alter a long chase a fine 
 male was killed by J'errault ; several others were 
 wounded, but they escaped. Alter this we passed 
 round the north end of a branch of the lake, and as- 
 o uded the Willingham Mountains, keeping near the 
 border of the lake. These hills were steep, craggy, 
 and covered with Bnow. We encamped at seven, and 
 enjoyed a substantial meal. The party were in good 
 spirits this evening al the recollection of having cross- 
 ed the rapid, and being in possession of provision for 
 the ii!\i day. Besides we had taken the precaution 
 of bringing away tin* skin of the deer to eal when
 
 In (!,< Arctic Regions. 269 
 
 the meat should fail. The temperature at Biz P.M. 
 was 3 
 
 We started at seven aexl morning and marched un- 
 til ten, when the appearance of a few willows, peeping 
 through the snow, induced us to halt ami breakf 
 Be-comm< ocing the journey at noon, we passed over a 
 more ruggi 1 country, where the hills were Beparal 
 by deep ravines, whose Bteep sides were equally diffi- 
 cult to descend and to ascend. 
 
 The party was quite fatigued, and we encamped, 
 having come ten miles and three-quarters. We ob- 
 served many summer deer roads, ami some recent 
 tracks. Sum.- marks that had been put up by the 
 Indians were ai 1. We have since Learned 
 
 that this is a regular deer pass, and on that account, 
 annually frequented by the Copper Indians. The 
 lake is called by them Contwoy-tO, or Hum Lake, ill 
 consequence of Mr. Eeame having here given the In- 
 dians who accompanied him Borne of that lienor. 
 They do not get fish here 
 
 We walked Qi \t day Over a more level country, but 
 
 it was Btrewed with large stones. These galled our 
 i> el a . ; we i mtrived, however, to wa 
 
 through the Bnow at a tolerably quick pace until five 
 
 P.M., having made twelve miles and a halt'. We had 
 
 made to-day our proper course, south by east, which 
 we could do! venture upon doing before, for fearoi
 
 270 Thirty Years 
 
 falling again upon some branch of the Contwoy-to. 
 Some deer were seen in the morning, but the hunters 
 failed of killing any, and in the afternoon we fell into 
 the track of a large herd, which had passed the day 
 before, but did not overtake them. In consequence 
 of this want of success we had no breakfast, and but a 
 scanty supper ; but we allayed the pangs of hunger, 
 by eating pieces of singed hide. A little tripe de roche 
 was also obtained. These would have satisfied us in 
 ordinary times, but we were now almost exhausted by 
 slender fare and travel, and our appetites had become 
 ravenous. We looked, however, with humble confi- 
 dence to the great Author and Giver of all good, for 
 a continuance of the support which had hitherto been 
 always supplied to us at our greatest need. The 
 thermometer varied to-day between 25° and 2S°. 
 The wind blew fresh from the south. 
 
 On the 18th the atmosphere was hazy, but the day 
 was more pleasant for walking than usual. The coun- 
 try was level and gravelly, and the snow very deep. 
 \W went for a short time aliing a deeply beaten road, 
 made by the reindeer, which turned suddenly off to 
 the Bouth-west, which was a direction so wide of our 
 
 course that we could not venture upon following it. 
 
 All the small Lakes were frozen, and we marched across 
 
 which lay in our track. We supped off the 
 
 tripe de roche which had been gathered during our
 
 In the Arctic E 
 
 halts in ill'- course of the march. Thermometer at 
 P.M. 3 
 
 Showers of buow fell without intermission through 
 the night, but they ceased in the morning, and we 
 
 out at the usual hour. The men were \< ry taint from 
 hunger, and marched with difficulty, having to opp 
 u fresh breeze, and to wade through the Bnow two I 
 deep. We gained, however, ten miles by four o'clock, 
 ami then encamped. The canoe was unfortunately 
 broken by the fall of the person who had it in chat 
 No trip* n to-day, but in clearing the 
 
 snow to pitch the tents we found a quantity of 1 
 land moss, which was boiled t*<>r Supper. This weed, 
 not having been so hitter, that few <>i' 
 
 the party could eat more than a few spoonfuls of it. 
 Our blankets did not. Buffice this evening to keep as 
 in tolerable warmth ; the slightest 1 i ming to 
 
 pierce through our debilitated frames. The readi r 
 will, probably, he desirous to know how we passed our 
 time in Mich ; i comfortless situation : the first opera- 
 tion after encamping was to thaw en;- lines, if 
 ;i snilicit ut lire could he made, and dry 01 
 
 on ; each person then wrote his notes of tin.' daily 
 
 currences, and evening prayei 
 
 Bupper was prepared it was eaten, generally in I 
 
 dark, and we went to bed, and kept up a cheerful con- 
 ation until our blankets were thawed hy the 1
 
 272 Thirty Years 
 
 of our bodies, and we had gathered sufficient warmth 
 to enable us to fall asleep. On many nights we had 
 not even the luxury of going to bed in dry clothes, for 
 when the fire was insufficient to dry our shoes, we 
 durst not venture to pull them off, lest they should 
 freeze so hard as to be unfit to put on in the morning, 
 and, therefore, inconvenient to carry. 
 
 On the 20th we got into a hilly country, and the 
 marching became much more laborious ; even the 
 stoutest experienced great difficulty in climbiDg the 
 craggy eminences. Mr. Hood was particularly weak, 
 and was obliged to relinquish his station of second in 
 the line, which Dr. Richardson now took, to direct the 
 leading man in keeping the appointed course. I was 
 also unable to keep pace with the men, who put forth 
 their utmost speed, encouraged by the hope, which 
 our reckoning had led us to form, of seeing Point Lake 
 in the evening, but we were obliged to encamp with- 
 out gaining a view of it. We had not soon either 
 deer or their tracks through the day, and this circum- 
 stance, joined to the disappointment of not discovering 
 the lake, rendered our voyagers very desponding, and 
 tin' meagre supper of tripe dc rocJie was little calcu- 
 lated to elevate their spirits. They now threatened 
 to throw away their bandies, and quit us, which rash 
 act they would probably have done, if they had known 
 what track to pursue.
 
 Tn //,.■ Arctic Regit 273 
 
 Sept, 21. — We Bet out at seven this morning in 
 dark foggy weather, and changed our chum- two 
 points to the westward. The party were very feeble, 
 and the men much dispirited ; we made bIow pro 
 
 58, having to march over a hilly and very rugged 
 country. 
 
 Just before noon tin- sun beamed through the haae 
 for the first time for sis days, and we obtained an ob- 
 servation in latitude 65° 7' 06 -V. which was six 
 miles to the southward of that part of Point Lake to 
 which our course was directed. By this observation 
 we discovered that we had kept to the eastward of the 
 proper course, which may be attributed partly to the 
 difficulty of preserving a straight line through an un- 
 known country, unassisted by celestial observations, 
 and in BUch thick weather, that OUT view was often 
 limited to a few hundred yards ; hut chiefly to Our 
 
 total ignorance of the amount of the variation of the 
 com] 
 
 We altered the course immediately to mth- 
 
 west, and tired guns to apprize the hunters who v. 
 
 out "i" "in- view, and ignorant of <>ur having done bo. 
 Alter walking about two miles we put up to collect 
 the stragglers. Two partridg killed, and thi 
 
 with some tripi dU roche, furnished our supper. Not- 
 withstanding a full explanation \\;.s given to the men 
 
 of the reasons for altering thee arse, and they \\>re 
 
 1-J
 
 274 Thirty Years 
 
 assured that the observation had enabled us to disco- 
 ver our exact distance from Fort Enterprize, they 
 could not divest themselves of the idea of our having 
 lost our way, and a gloom was spread over every coun- 
 tenance. At 4his encampment Dr. Richardson was 
 obliged to deposit his specimens of plants and minerals, 
 collected on the sea-coast, being unable to carry them 
 any further. The way made to-day was five miles 
 and a quarter. 
 
 Sept. 22. — After walking about two miles this morn- 
 ing, we came upon the borders of a large lake, whose 
 extremities could not be discerned in consequence of 
 the density of the atmosphere ; but as its shores seem- 
 ed to approach nearer to each other to the southward 
 than to the northward, we determined on tracing it 
 in that direction. We were grieved at finding the 
 lake expand very much beyond the contracted part we 
 had first seen, and incline now to the cast ward of 
 south. As it was considered more than probable, from 
 the direction and size of the body of water we were 
 now tracing, that it was a branch of Point Lake ; and 
 as, in any case, we knew that by passing round its 
 south end, we must shortly come to the Copper-Mine 
 River, our course was continued in that direction. 
 The appearance of some dwarf pines and willows, lar- 
 ger than usual, induced us (o suppose the river was 
 
 near. We encamped early, having c ■ eighl miles.
 
 In the A,-. ' na. 275 
 
 I ):;r Bupper consisted of tripe de rocJu and half a par- 
 tridge each. 
 
 Our progress nexi day was extremely slow, froi 
 difficulty <>t managing the canoe in passing over the 
 hills, as the breeae was fresh. Peltier, who had it in 
 charge, having received several seven- falls, became 
 impatient, and insisted on leaving his burden, as it 
 had already been much injured by the accidents of 
 this day ; and do arguments we could use were suffi- 
 cient to prevail on him to continue carrying it. Vail- 
 lunt was, therefore, directed to take it, and we proceed- 
 ed forward. Saving found he -_ r "t on very well, ■ 
 was walking even foster than Mr. ftood could, in his 
 present debilitated state, I pushed forward to stop the 
 r. st of the party, who had got out of our sight during 
 the delay which the discussion about the canoe had 
 occasioned. 1 accidentally passed the body of the men, 
 and followed the hacks of two persons, who had sepa- 
 rated from the rest, until two P.M., when, do! seeing 
 any person, 1 retraced my steps, and on my way i 
 l>r. Richardson, who had also mi party whilst 
 
 he was employed gathering tripi d 
 went hack together in search of them. We found 
 they had halted among some willow^, where they had 
 picked np Borne pi< ces of skin, and a few bones of de n 
 that had been devoured by the wolves last Bprh 
 They had rendered the bones friable by burning, and
 
 276 Thirty Years 
 
 eaten them, as well as the skin ; and several of them 
 had added their old shoes to the repast, Peltier and 
 Vaillant were with them, having left the canoe, which, 
 they said, was so completely broken by another fall, 
 as to be rendered incapable of repair, and entirely use- 
 less. The anguish this intelligence occasioned may be 
 conceived, but it is beyond my power to describe it. 
 Impressed, however, with the necessity of taking it 
 forward, even in the state these men represented it to 
 be, we urgently desired them to fetch it ; but they de- 
 clined going, and the strength of the officers was inade- 
 quate to the task. To their infatuated obstinacy on 
 this occasion, a great portion of the melancholy circum- 
 stances which attended our subsequent progress may, 
 perhaps, be attributed. The men now seemed to have 
 lost all hope of being preserved ; and all the argu- 
 ments we could use failed in stimulating them to the 
 least exertion. After consuming the remains of the 
 bones and horns of the deer we resumed our march, 
 and, in the evening, reached a contracted part of the 
 lake, which perceiving to be shallow, we lorded and 
 encamped on the opposite side. Heavy rain began 
 soon afterwards, and fbntinued all the night, On the 
 following morning the rain had so wasted the snow, 
 that the tracks of Mr. Back and his companions, who 
 had gone before with the hunters, were traced with 
 difficulty ; and the frequent showers during the day
 
 In ///< An tic /. . 
 
 • 
 
 almost obliterated them. The m< d became furiou 
 the apprehension of being deserted by the hunters, and 
 Borne of the strongest throwing down their bund) 
 prepared to Bel out after them, intending to Leave the 
 more weak to follow as they could. The entrea 
 ami threats of the officers, however, prevented their 
 executing Lhie mad Bcheme : but not before Solomon 
 inger was despatched with orders for Mr. Back to 
 halt until we should join him. Sunn afterwards a thick 
 fog came on, bul we continued our march and overtook 
 Mr. Back, who had been detained in consequence of 
 his companions having followed some recent tracks of 
 deer. After halting an hour, during which we refresh- 
 ed ourselves with eating our old shoes and a few scraps 
 of leather, we Bet forward in the hope of ascertaining 
 whether an adjoining piece of water was the Copper- 
 Mine River or oot, but were soon compelled to return 
 and encamp, for Tear of a separation of the party, as 
 we could not Bee each other at ten yards' distance. 
 The fog diminishing towards the evening, Augustus 
 was Bent to examine the water, hut having lost his 
 way he did Dot reach the tents before midnight, when 
 he brought the information of its being a lake. \\v 
 BUpped upon tripe dt roche, and enjoyed a comforta- 
 ble fire, having found some pines, Beven or eight feet 
 high, in a valley near the encampment. 
 
 The bounty of Piovideqce was most seasonably 
 manifested to us nexl mornimr. in our killing five
 
 278 Thirty Years 
 
 small deer out of a herd, which came in sight as we 
 were on the point of starting. This unexpected sup- 
 ply reanimated the drooping spirits of our men, and 
 filled every heart with gratitude. 
 
 The voyagers instantly petitioned for a day's rest, 
 which we were most reluctant to grant, heing aware 
 of the importance of every moment at tbis critical 
 period of our journey. But they so earnestly and 
 strongly pleaded their recent sufferings, and their con- 
 viction, that the quiet enjoyment of two substantial 
 meals, after eight days' famine, would enable them to 
 proceed next day more vigorously, that we could not 
 resist their entreaties. The flesh, the skins, and even 
 the contents of the stomachs of the deer were equally 
 distributed among the party by Mr. Hood, who had 
 volunteered, on the departure of Mr. Wentzel, to per- 
 form the duty of issuing the provision. This invidious 
 task he had all along performed with great impartiali- 
 ty, but seldom without producing some grumbling 
 amongst the Canadians ; and on the present occasion, 
 the hunters were displeased that the heads, and some 
 other parts, bad not been added to their portions. It 
 is proper to remark, that, Mr. Bood always took the 
 smallest portion lor bis own mess, but this weighed 
 little with these men, as long as their own appetites 
 remained unsatisfied. Wo all suffered much inconve- 
 nience from eating animal food after our Ion- absti- 
 nence, but particularly those men who indulged them-
 
 /// the- An /;■ ' 279 
 
 selves beyond moderation. We Learned, In the even- 
 ing, thai the Canadians, with their usual thought! 
 
 had consumed above a third of their portions of 
 meat, 
 
 We Bet out early on the 26th, and, after walking 
 about three miles along the laki . to the rh 
 
 which we at once recognized, from its Bize, to 1"- the 
 
 per-Mine. [t flowed to the northward, and after 
 winding about five miles, terminated in Point Lake. 
 Its current was swift, and there were two rapids in 
 this part of its course, bul in a i could have 
 
 crossed with ease and Bafety. These rapids, as well as 
 
 ry other part "l the river, were carefully examined 
 in search of a ford ; but finding none, the expedients 
 occurred, of attempting to cross on a rafl made of the 
 willows which were growing there, or in a vesa I 
 framed with willows, and covered with the canvass of 
 the tents ; but both these schemes were abandoned, 
 through the obstinacy of the interpreters and the 
 most experienced voyagers, who declared that they 
 would prove inadequate to the conveyance of the 
 party, and thai much time would, be lost in the 
 attempt. The nun, in fact, did not beb'eve that this 
 was the Copper-Mine River, and bo little confide! 
 had they in our reckoning, and bo much had they be- 
 wildered themselves on the march, that Borne of them 
 
 rted it was Eood's Stiver, and others that it 
 the Bethe-tessy, (a river which rises from a lake to the
 
 280 Thirty Years 
 
 northward of Rum Lake, and holds a course to the 
 sea parallel to the Copper-Mine.) In short, their 
 despondency had returned, and they all despaired of 
 seeing Fort Enterprize again. However, the steady 
 assurances of the officers, that we were actually on the 
 hanks of the Copper-Mine Eiver, and that the dis- 
 tance to Fort Enterprize did not exceed forty miles, 
 made some impression upon them, which was increas- 
 ed upon our finding some bear-herry plants, which is 
 reported by the Indians not to grow to the eastward 
 of that river. Then they deplored their folly and im- 
 patience in breaking the canoe, being all of opinion, 
 that had it not been so completely demolished on the 
 23d, it might have been repaired sufficiently to take 
 the party over. We again closely interrogated Pel- 
 tier and Vaillant as to its state, with the intention of 
 Bending for it ; but they persisted in the declaration, 
 that it was in a totally unserviceable condition. 
 Si. Germain being again called upon, to endeavor to 
 construct a canoe frame from willows, stated that he 
 was unable to make one sufficiently large. It became 
 .iry, therefore, to Bearch for pines of sufficient 
 size to form a raft ; and being aware that such trees 
 grow on the borders of Point Lake, we considered it 
 
 to tracfi its shores in search of them ; we, there- 
 lure, resumed our march, carefully looking, but in 
 
 vain, iui- a fordable part, and encamped at the cast 
 end of I'nint Lake.
 
 1 1, I In Arctic Regions. 
 
 CHAPTEB XI. 
 
 A.8 there was little danger of our losing the path 
 of our hunters whilst we coasted the Bhores of this 
 lake, I determined on again sending Mr. Back forward, 
 with the interpreters, to hunt. 1 had in view, in this 
 arrangement, the further object of enabling Mr. Back 
 
 ; across the lake with two of these men, I 
 vey the earliest possible account of our situation to 
 the Indians. Accordingly I instructed him to halt at 
 the first pines he Bhould conn.' to, and then prepare a 
 raft ; and it' his hunters had killed animals, so that the 
 party could be supported whilst we were making our 
 raft, h<- was to cross immediately with St. Germain and 
 Beauparlant, and Bend the Indians to ua as quickly as 
 possible with Buppliesjrf meat 
 
 We had this evening the pain of discovering that 
 two of our men had Btoleo part of the i flfioers' provi- 
 sion, which had been allotted to us with Strict impar- 
 tiality. This conduct was the more reprehensible, as 
 it was plain that we were Buffering, even in a gl
 
 282 TJiirty Years 
 
 degree than themselves, from, the effects of famine, 
 owing to our being of a less robust habit, and less ac- 
 customed to privations. We had no means of punish- 
 ing this crime, but by the threat that they should for- 
 feit their wages, which had now ceased to operate. 
 
 Mr. Back and his companions set out at six in the 
 morning, and we started at seven. As the snow had 
 entirely disappeared, and there were no means of dis- 
 tinguishing the footsteps of stragglers, I gave strict 
 orders, previously to our setting out, for all the party 
 to keep together : and especially I desired the two 
 Esquimaux not to leave us, they having often strayed 
 in search of the remains of animals. Our people, how- 
 ever, through despondency, had become careless and 
 disobedient, and had ceased to dread punishment, or 
 hope for reward. Much time was lost in halting and 
 firing guns to collect them, but the labor of walking 
 was so much lightened by the disappearance of the 
 snow, that we advanced seven or eight miles along the 
 lake before neon, exclusive of the loss of distance in 
 rounding its numerous bays. At length we came to 
 an arm, running away to the norlh-east, and apparent- 
 ly connected with the lake which we had coasted on 
 
 the 22d, 23d, and 24th of the month. 
 
 The idea of again rounding such an extensive piece 
 of water and of traveling over so barren a country was 
 dreadful, ami we feared thai other arms, equally large,
 
 /// the Arctic Regu 283 
 
 might obstruct our path, and thai ogth of the 
 
 party would entirely fail, long before we could reach 
 
 the only part where we were certain of finding w 1. 
 
 distanl in a direct line twenty-five miles. W bile we 
 halted to consider of this Bubject, and to collect the 
 party, the carcass ofa de< r was discovered in the cleft 
 of a rock into which it had fallen in the spring. It 
 was putrid, but it was little less acceptable to us on 
 that account, in our present circumstances ; and a 
 fire being kindled, a large portion of it was devoured 
 on th«' Bpot, affording us an unexpected breakfast, for 
 in order to husband our small remaining portion of 
 meat, we had agreed to make only one scanty meal a 
 day. The men, cheered by this nnlooked-for Bupply, 
 became sanguine in the hope of being able to cross the 
 Btream on a raft of willows, although they had before 
 declared such a project impracticable, and they un- 
 animously entreated us to return back to the rapid, 
 a request which accorded with our own opinion, and 
 was therefore acceded to. Credit and Junius, how- 
 ever, were missing, and it was also necessary to Bend 
 notice of our intention to Mr. Back and his party. 
 Augustus being promised a reward, undertook the I 
 and we agreed to wail for him at the rapid. It 
 supposed he could nol fail meeting with the I 
 Btragglers on his way to or from Mr. Back, as it 
 
 likely they would keep on the borders of the lake, lie
 
 284 Thirty Years 
 
 accordingly set out after Mr. Back, whilst we returned 
 about a mile towards the rapid, and encamped in a 
 deep valley amongst some large willows. We supped 
 on the remains of the putrid deer, and the men having 
 gone to the spot where it was found, scraped together 
 the contents of its intestines which were scattered on 
 the rock, and added them to their meal. We also 
 enjoyed the luxury to-day of eating a large quantity 
 of excellent blueberries and cranberries, (y actinium 
 vliginosum and v. Vitus idwa,) which were laid bare 
 by the melting of the snow, but nothing could allay 
 our inordinate appetites. 
 
 In the night we heard the report of Credit's gun in 
 answer to our signal muskets, and he rejoined us in 
 the morning, but we got no intelligence of Junius. 
 We set out about an hour after daybreak, and en- 
 camped at two P.M. between the rapids ; . where the 
 liver was about one hundred and thirty yards wide, 
 being its narrowest part. 
 
 Eight deer were seen by Michel and Credit, who 
 loitered behind the rest of the party, but they could 
 not approach them. A great many shots were tired 
 by those in the rear at partridges, but they missed, or 
 at least did not choose to add what they killed to the 
 common stuck. We subsequently learned that the 
 hunters often secreted the partridges they shot, and 
 eat them unknown to the officers. Some tripe de
 
 /// the A rlli- Regions. 
 
 I, which we boiled for supper, with 
 the moiety of the remainder of <>ur deer's meat. The 
 men commenced catting the willows for the con- 
 struction of the raft. As an excitement to exerti 
 I promised a reward of three hundred Livres to the 
 tirst person who should convey a line across the river, 
 by which the raft could be managed in transporting 
 tic party. 
 
 September 29. — Strong - I winds with fog 
 
 in the morning, more moderate in the evening. Tem- 
 perature of the rapid 38°. The men began .-it an early 
 hour to hind the willows in fag its foi ' ttruction 
 
 of the raft, and it was finished by srven ; but as the 
 
 willows were green, it proved to 1"' very little buoyant, 
 and was unable to Bupport more than one man at a 
 time. Even on this, however, we hoped the whole 
 party might be transported, by hauling it from one 
 side to the other, provided a line could bi i to 
 
 the other bank. Several attempts were mad'- by B - 
 1 inger and Benoit, the Btrongesl men of the party, to 
 convey the raft across the Btream, bul they tailed for 
 want of oars. A polo constructed by tying the tent 
 poles together, was It to reach the bottom at 
 
 a short distance from the shore ; and a paddle width 
 
 had been carried from th< j l'r. Richardson, 
 
 did not sufficient power to move the raft in 
 
 opposition to a Btrong breeze, which blew from the
 
 286 Thirty Years 
 
 opposite shore. All the men suffered extremely from 
 the coldness of the water, in which they were neces- 
 sarily immersed up to the waists, in their endeavors to 
 aid Belanger and Benoit ; and having witnessed re- 
 peated failures, they began to consider the scheme as 
 hopeless. At this time Dr. Richardson, prompted by 
 a desire of relieving his suffering companions, proposed 
 to swim across the stream with a line, and to haul the 
 raft over. He launched into the stream with the line 
 round his middle, but when he had got a short dis- 
 tance from the bank, his arms became benumbed with 
 cold, and he lost the power of moving them ; still he 
 persevered, and turning on his back, had nearly gained 
 the opposite bank, when his legs also became power- 
 less, and to our infinite alarm we beheld him sink. 
 We instantly hauled upon the line and he came again 
 on the surface, and was gradually drawn ashore in an 
 almost lifeless state. Being rolled up in blankets, he 
 was placed before a good fire of willows, and fortu- 
 nately was just able to speak sufficiently to give some 
 slight directions respecting the manner of treating 
 
 liim. lb- recovered strength gradually, and by the 
 
 blessing of G-od was enabled *in the course of a few 
 hours to converse, mid by the evening was sufficiently 
 recovered to remove into the tent, We then regretted 
 I.. Learn, thai the Bkin of liis whole left side was 
 deprived of feeling in consequence of exposure to too
 
 / ■ .'',. An lie H i ' 
 
 Be did no1 
 fcionoft] until the following summer, [can- 
 
 not describe what every one felt at beholding the 
 skeleton which the Doctor's debilitated frame exhibi- 
 ted. When he stripped, the Canadians simultaneous- 
 ly exclaimed, " Ah que nous sommes maigres." I 
 sliall best explain his Btate and that of the party, by 
 the following extract from his journal: ' : It may be 
 worthy of remark, that I would have had little hesita- 
 tion in any former period of my life, of plunging into 
 water even below 38° Fahrenheit ; hut at this t 
 1 was reduced almost to Bkin and 1 like the 
 
 of the party, suffered from of cold that 
 
 ild have been disregarded whilst in health and 
 
 >r, During the whole of our march we experien 
 
 that no quantity of clothing could keep us warm 
 
 whilst we fasted, but on those occasions on which we 
 
 were enabled to go to bed with full stomachs, we 
 
 id the night in a warm and comfortable mam: 
 In following the detail of our friend's narro 
 
 \-r omitted to mention, that when he wasaboul 
 Btep into the water, he put his foot on a dagger, which 
 cut him to the bone ; but this misfortune could i 
 stop him from attempting the execution of his gene- 
 ous undertaking. 
 
 In the evening Augustus came in. He had walked 
 a day and a half beyond the place from whence
 
 2SS Thirty Years 
 
 turned back, but had neither seen Junius nor Mr. 
 Back. Of the former he had seen no traces, but he 
 had followed the tracks of Mr. Back's party for a con- 
 siderable distance, until the hardness of the ground 
 rendered them imperceptible. Junius was well 
 equipped with ammunition, blankets, knives, a kettle, 
 and other necessaries ; and it was the opinion of Au- 
 gustus, that when he found he could not rejoin the 
 party, he would endeavor to gain the woods on the 
 west end of Point Lake, and follow the river until he 
 fell in with the Esquimaux, who frequent its mouth. 
 The Indians too, with whom we have since conversed 
 upon this subject, are confident that he would be able 
 to subsist himself during the winter. Credit, on his 
 hunting excursion to-day, found a cap, which our 
 people, recognized to belong to one of the hunters who 
 had left us in the spring. This circumstance produced 
 tlic conviction of our being on the banks of the Cop- 
 per-Mine Biver, which all the assertions of the officers 
 had hitherto failed to do with some of the party ; and 
 it had the happy effect of reviving their spirits con- 
 siderably. We consumed the last of our deer's meat 
 this evening at supper. 
 
 Next morning the men went out, in search of dry 
 willows, and collected eight large fagots, with which 
 they formed a more buoyanl rafl than the former, but 
 the wind being siill adverse and Btrong, they delayed
 
 In the Arctic R* gion». 
 
 attempting to cross until a more favorable opportunity. 
 Pleased, however, with the appearance of this raft, 
 they collected Bom . and made a cheer- 
 
 ful supper. Dr. Richardson was gaining strength, b&1 
 
 ;■ wus much swelled and very painful. An ob- 
 servati latitude placed the encampment in 
 
 65° 00" 00" N., the longitude being 112* 20 00" W., 
 deduced from th - lai t observation 
 
 <>n the morning of the 1st of October, the wind was 
 
 •, and the weather as unfavorable re for 
 
 ing on the raft We were rejoiced to see Mr. 
 Back and his party in the afternoon, They had tra- 
 ced the lake about iifteeii miles farther than we did, 
 and found it undoubtedly id, as we had Bup- 
 
 . with the lake we fell upon on the _ } :M of Sep- 
 tember, and dreading, as we had. dime, the idea of 
 
 ag its barren shores, they returned to make an 
 attempt a1 crossing here. St. Germain now proposed 
 to make a canoe oi gments of painted canvass 
 
 in which we wrapped up our bedding. This scheme 
 appearing practicable, a party i to our encamp- 
 
 ment ofthe 24th and 25th] • Meet pitch amongst 
 the small pines that grew there, to pay over th'' seam - 
 
 Of tie- canoe. 
 
 In the- afternoon we had a heavy fall of snow, which 
 continued all the night. A small quantity of t, ' 
 
 aered ; and > Iredit, \\ ho had been hunt-
 
 290 Thirty Years 
 
 ing, brought in the antlers and back bone of a deer 
 which had been killed in the summer. The wolves 
 and birds of prey had picked them clean, but there 
 still remained a quantity of the spinal marrow which 
 they had not been able to extract. This, although 
 putrid, was esteemed a valuable prize, and the spine 
 being divided into portions, was distributed equally. 
 After eating the marrow, which was so acrid as to ex- 
 crociate the lips, we rendered the bones friable by burn- 
 ing, and ate them also. 
 
 On the following morning the ground was covered 
 with snow to the depth of a foot and a half, and the 
 weather was very stormy. These circumstances ren- 
 dered the men again extremely despondent ; a settled 
 gloom hung over their countenances, and they refused 
 to pick tripe de roche, choosing rather to go entirely 
 without easing, than to make any exertion. The 
 party which went for gum returned early in the morn- 
 ing without having found any ; but St. Germain said 
 he could si ill make the canoe with the willows cover- 
 ed with the canvass, and removed with Adam to a 
 clump of willows for that purpose. Mr. Bacli accom- 
 panied them to stimulate his exertion, as we feared 
 the lowness of his spirits would cause him to be slow 
 in hi:, operatioi usl iifl went to fish at the rapid, 
 
 but a Large trout having carried away his bait, we had 
 nothing t" replace it.
 
 /// the Arctic Regv 291 
 
 The pnow storm continued all thi md during 
 
 the forei □ of the 3d, Saving persuaded the ; 
 
 ither Borne tripe de roche, I partook of a meal 
 with them ; and afterwards set out with the inten- 
 tion of going to St. Germain to hasten his operations, 
 bul though lie was only three-quarters of a mile dis- 
 tant, I Bpenl three hours in a vain attempt to 
 him. my strength being unequal to the labor of wad- 
 ing through the deep bdow ; and I returned qui 
 hausted, and much Bhaken by the numerous falls 1 
 had got My associates were all in the same debilita- 
 
 . and poor I [ood was reduced to a | 
 shadow, from the iwel complaints which the 
 
 tripe d< roche never failed to give him. Back w 
 feeble as to require the support of a stick in walking ; 
 and 1 >r. Richardson had lameness superadded to weak- 
 The voyagers were Bomewhal Btronger than 
 ourselves, but more indisposed to exertion, on account 
 of their despondency. The sensation of hunger was 
 do longer fell by any of us, yel we v ireely able 
 
 to converse upon any other Bubject than the 
 
 ting. We were much indebted to Eepburn at 
 this crisis. The officers were unable from weal 
 
 ;lier iri, h them 5 indre, 
 
 who had acted as our cook on the journey from the 
 coast, sharing in the despair oi I of the Cana- 
 
 dians, refused to make the Bligb rtions. Hep-
 
 292 Thirty Years 
 
 burn, on the contrary, animated by a firm reliance on 
 the beneficence of the Supreme Being, tempered with 
 resignation to his will, was indefatigable in his exer- 
 tions to serve us, and daily collected all the tripe de 
 roclie that was used in the officers' mess. Mr. Hood 
 could not partake of this miserable fare, and a par- 
 tridge which had been reserved for him was, I lament 
 to say, this day stolen by one of the men. 
 
 Oct. 4. — The canoe being finished, it was brought 
 to the encampment, and the whole party being assem- 
 bled in anxious expectation on the beach, St. Ger- 
 main embarked, and amidst our prayers for his success, 
 succeeded in reaching the opposite shore. The canoe 
 was then drawn back again, and another person trans- 
 ported, and in this manner, by drawing it backwards 
 and forwards, they were all conveyed over without any 
 scrimis accident. By these frequent traverses the ca- 
 DOe was materially injured ; and latterly it. tilled each 
 time with water before reaching the shore, so that all 
 our garments and bedding were wet, and there was 
 not a sufficiency of willows upon the side on which 
 we now were, lo make a lire to dry them. 
 
 That no time might be lost in procuring relief, I 
 immediately despatched Mr. Back with St. Germain, 
 Solomon Belanger, and Beauparlant, to search for the 
 rndians, directing him to go to Fort Enterprize, where 
 wc expected they would be, or where, at least, a noto
 
 In the Art ti<- Regions. 293 
 
 from Mr. Wentzel would be found to direct us in our 
 nil for them, [f St. Germain should kill any ani- 
 mals on his way, a portion of the meal was to be 
 {nit up securely for us, and conspicuous marks p! 
 over it. 
 
 It i> impossible to imagine a more gratifying cd 
 than was produced in our voyagers after we were all 
 safely landed on the southern banks of the river. 
 Their spirits immediately revived, each of them ah 
 the cordially by the hand, ami d< they 
 
 now considered the worst of their difficulties over, as 
 they did not doubt of reaching Fort Enterprize in a 
 
 i'ew days, even in their feeble condition. We had in- 
 deed every reason to he grateful, and our joy would 
 have 1' en complete were it not mingled with sin. 
 
 ret at the separation of our poor Esquimaux, the 
 faithful d unius. 
 The want oftript de roche caused us to go Bupper- 
 to bed. Showers of snow fell frequently during 
 the night The breeze was light next morning, the 
 •her cold and dear. We were all on foot by day- 
 break, hut from the frozi D Bt I r tents and |> 1 
 
 clothes, it was lo • the bundles could be made, 
 
 and as usual the men lingered over a small fire tl 
 
 had kin that il .t o'clot fa we 
 
 started. ( Kir advance from the depth of the snow was 
 slow, and about noon coming to .here th<
 
 294 Thirty Years 
 
 was some tripe de roche, we stopped to collect it, and 
 breakfasted. Mr. Hood, who was now very feeble, and 
 Dr. Richardson, who attached himself to him, walked 
 together at a gentle pace in the rear of the party. I 
 kept with the foremost men, to cause them to halt oc- 
 casionally, until the stragglers came up. Resuming 
 our march after breakfast, we followed the track of 
 Mr. Back's party, and encamped early, as all of us 
 were much fatigued, particularly Credit, who having 
 to-<lay carried the men's tent, it being his turn to do 
 so, was so exhausted, that when he reached the en- 
 campment he was unable to stand. The tripe de roche 
 disagreed with this man and with Vaillant, in conse- 
 quence of which they were the fiist whose strength 
 totally failed. We had a small quantity of this weed 
 in the evening, and the rest of bur supper was made 
 up of scraps of roasted leather. The distance walked 
 to-day was six miles. As Credit was very weak in 
 the morning, his load was reduced to little more than 
 
 his personal luggage, consisting of his blanket, Bhoes, 
 
 and gun. Previous to setting out, the whole party 
 ate the remains of their old shoes, and whatever 
 
 Bcraps of leather they had, to strengthen their stomachs 
 for the fatigue of the day's journey. We left the en- 
 campment at oine, and pursued our route over a range 
 of bleak hills. The wind having increased to ;( strong 
 gale in tl of the morning, became piercingly
 
 In tin' An lis. 
 
 cold, and the drift rendered it difficult for those in the 
 rear to follow the track over the heights, whilst in th i 
 valleys, where it, was sufficiently marked, from the 
 depth of tlic snow, the labor of walking was pi 
 tionably great. Those in advance made as usual fre- 
 quent hall ing unable from the severity of the 
 weather to remain long still, tiny were obliged to move 
 on before the rear could come up, and tin- part; 
 con: : very much. 
 
 Aboul ooon Samandre coming up, informed us that 
 Credit and Vaillant could advance n<> further. 
 willows being discovered in a valley near to us, I pro- 
 to halt the party there whilst Dr. Richardson 
 wenl hack to visit them. I hoped too, that when the 
 sufferers received tin- information of a the being kin- 
 dled at so Bhort a distance, they would !>•• cheer d, and 
 use their utmost efforts to reach it, but this proved a 
 vain hope. The Doctor found Valliant about a mile 
 
 and a half in the rear, miirh exhausted with cold and 
 
 fatigue. Having encouraged him to advance to the 
 
 tire, after repeated solicitati made the at: 
 
 hut fell down amongst the deep snow at every step. 
 
 Leaving him in this situation, the Doctor went 
 
 halt' a mile farther back, to the spot wh il was 
 
 said to have halted, and the track being nearly oblite- 
 rated by the snow drif 
 go further. Returning he passed Vaillant, who hav-
 
 296 Thirty Tears 
 
 ing moved only a few yards in his absence, had fallen 
 down, was unable to rise, and could scarcely answer 
 his questions. Being unable to afford him any effec- 
 tual assistance, he hastened on to inform us of his situ- 
 ation. When J. B. Belanger had heard the melan- 
 choly account, he went immediately to aid Vaillant, 
 and bring up his burden. Respecting Credit, we were 
 informed by Samandre, that he had stopped a short 
 distance behind Vaillant, but that his intention was 
 to return to the encampment of the preceding even- 
 ing. 
 
 When Belanger came back with Vaillant's load, he 
 iuformed us that he had found him lying on his back, 
 benumbed with cold, and incapable of being roused. 
 The stoutest men of the party were now earnestly en- 
 treated to bring him to the fire, but they declared 
 themselves unequal to the task ; and, on the contrary, 
 urged me to allow them to throw down their loads, 
 and proceed to Fort Enterprize with the utmost speed. 
 A compliance with their desire would have caused the 
 of the whole party, for the men were totally ig- 
 norant of the course to be taken, and none of the offi- 
 cers, who could have directed the march, were suffi- 
 ciently strong to keep up at the pace they would then 
 
 walk J . even BUpposing them to have found 
 
 their way, the Strongest men would certainly have 
 
 bed the weak. Something, however, was abso-
 
 In the An ' *' /.' g ' 297 
 
 lutely necessary to be done, to relieve them as mnch 
 ible from their burdens, and the officers con- 
 sulted "ii the subject. Mr. Bood and Dr. Richard* 
 proposed to remain behind, with a single attendant, 
 at the first place where sufficient wood and tript de 
 
 ■ should be found for ten days' consumption ; and 
 that I should pri expeditiously ible with 
 
 the men to the house, and thence send them imme- 
 diate relief. They Btrongly nrged thai this arran 
 inriit would contribute to the safety oi the rest of the 
 party, by relieving them from the burden of a tent, 
 and several other articles ; and that they might afford 
 aid I it, if he should unexpectedly come up. I 
 
 d beyond description at the thought ol 
 Ii aving them in such a dangerous situation, and Pot a 
 long time combated their proposal ; but they strenu- 
 ously urged", that this step afforded the only chanci 
 Bafety for the party, and I reluctantly acceded to it. 
 The ammunition, of*which we had a small barrel, 
 
 also to be left with them, and it was hoped that 
 this deposit would be a Btrong inducement for the 
 Indians to venture across the barren grounds to their 
 aid. We communicated this resolution to the men. 
 who were cheered at the slightest prospecl of allevia- 
 tion "i' their pr isent miserii s, and they promise d with 
 great appearance of earnestness to return to those offi- 
 cers, upon the firsi Bupply of f 
 
 13"-
 
 298 Thirty Years 
 
 The party then moved on ; Vaillant's blanket and 
 other necessaries were left in the track, at the request 
 of the Canadians, without any hope, however, of his 
 being able to reach them. After marching until dusk 
 without seeing a favorable place for encamping, night 
 compelled us to take shelter under the lee of a hill, 
 amongst some willows, with which, after many at- 
 tempts, we at length made a fire. It was not suffi- 
 cient, however, to warm the whole party, much less to 
 thaw our shoes ; and the weather not permitting the 
 gathering of tripe de roche, we had nothing to cook. 
 
 The painful retrospection of the melancholy events 
 of the day banished sleep, and we shuddered as we con- 
 templated the dreadful effects of this bitterly cold night 
 on our two companions, if still living. Some faint 
 hopes were entertained of Credit's surviving the storm, 
 as he was provided with a good blanket, and had 
 leather to cat. 
 
 The weather was mild next morning. We left the 
 encampment at nine, and a little before noon cam.' to 
 a pivtfy extensive thicket <>f small willows. Dear which 
 there appeared a supply of tripe de roche on the face 
 of tin; rocks. At this place Dr. Richardson and Mr. 
 Hood determined to remain, with John Hepburn, who 
 volunteered to stop with them. The tent was securely 
 pitched, a few willows collected, and the ammunition 
 
 and all Other articles were deposited, except each man's
 
 / '/.. drcti !■'■ i ' 
 
 clothing, one tent, a sufficiency of ammunition for 
 journey, and the officer's journals. I bad only 
 blanket, which was carried for me, and two pai 
 .shoes. The offer was now made for any of the n 
 who fell themselves too weak to proceed, to rem 
 with the officers, but none of them accept d it. Mi- 
 chel alone felt sonic inclination to do bo. After wo 
 had united in thanksgiving and prayers to Almighty 
 G 1,1 separated from my companions, deeply fcfflic 
 thai a train of melancholy circumstances should h 
 demanded of me the severe trial of parting from friends 
 in such a condition, who had become endeared to me 
 by their constant kindness, and co-operation, and a 
 participation of numerous sufferings. This trial I 
 could not have hem induced to undergo, hut tor the 
 reasons tiny had so strongly urged the day b< fore, I i 
 which my own judgmenl assented, and for the san- 
 guine hope 1 fell of either finding a supply of pro- 
 q • Fori Enterprize, or meeting the Indians in 
 tic- immediate vicinity of that p] irding to my 
 
 arrangements with Mr. Wentzel and Akaitcho. I' 
 viously to our starting, Peltier and Benoit i 
 
 their promises, to return to them with provision, if 
 any should he found at the house, or t the 
 
 Indians to them, if any were met. 
 
 itly as Mr. Hood was exhausted, and, indeed, 
 incapable as he must have proved, ol encountering the
 
 300 Thirty Years 
 
 fatigue of our next day's journey, so that I felt his 
 resolution to be prudent, I was sensible that his deter- 
 mination to remain, was mainly prompted by the dis- 
 interested and generous wish to remove impediments 
 to the progress of the rest of the party. Dr. Richard- 
 son and Hepburn, who were both in a state of strength 
 to keep pace with the men, beside this motive which 
 they shared with him, were influenced in their resolu- 
 tion to remain ; the former by the desire which had 
 distinguished his character, throughout the expedition, 
 of devoting himself to the succor of the weak, and 
 the latter by the zealous attachment he had ever 
 shewn towards his officers. 
 
 We set out without waiting to take any of the 
 tripe de rochc, and walked at a tolerable pace, and in 
 an hour arrived at a line group of pines, about a mile 
 
 1 a quarter from the tent. We sincerely regretted 
 not having seen these before we had separated from 
 our companions, as they would have been better sup- 
 plied with fuel here, and there appeared to be more 
 tripe de roche than where we had left them. 
 
 Descending afterwards into a more level country, 
 we found the snow very deep, and the labor of wading 
 through it so fatigued the whole party, thai we were 
 compelled to encamp, after a march of four miles and 
 a half. Belanger and Michel were lefl far behind, 
 and whin they arrived at the encampment appeared
 
 I ii the An tic !<■ 301 
 
 quite exhausted. The former, bursting into tears, 
 declared his inability to proceed with the party, and 
 I me to let him eo back next morning to the 
 and shortly afterwards Michel made the same 
 request. I was in hopes they might recover a little 
 strength by the night's rest, and therefore del 
 giving any permission until the morning. The 
 
 dlure in the strength of these men casl a gloom 
 over the rest, which 1 tried in vain to remove, by re- 
 peated assurances thai the distance to Fori Enterprize 
 
 bort, and that we should, in all prohability, i 
 
 it in four "lays. Not being alilc to find any f r ' 
 
 roche, we drank an infusion of the Labrador tea plant, 
 (ledum palu8tre,) and ate a few morsels of burnt 
 leather for supper. We were unable to raise the tent, 
 and found its weight too great to carry it on ; we, 
 therefore, cut it up, and tooka part of the canvi 
 a cover. The nighl was bitterly cold, and though we 
 lay as cl »8e to each other as possible, having no shel- 
 ter, we could not keep ourselves sufficiently warm to 
 sleep. A Btrong gale came on after midnight, which 
 tityofthe weather. In the morning 
 Belanger and Michel renewed their request to be per- 
 mitted to go back to the tent, assuring me they 
 Mill weaker than on the preceding evening, ai 
 capable of going forward ; and they urged, that the 
 stopping ai .1 place whi re tie re w is a s:: it'. v "'' trip*
 
 302 Thirty Years 
 
 de roche was their only chance of preserving life ; un- 
 der these circumstances, I could not do otherwise than 
 yield to their desire. I wrote a note to Dr. Richard- 
 son and Mr. Hood, informing them of the pines we 
 had passed, and recommending their removing thither. 
 Having found that Michel was carrying a considerable 
 quantity of ammunition, I desired him to divide it 
 among my party, leaving him only ten balls and a lit- 
 tle shot, to kill any animals he might meet on his 
 way to the tent. This man was very particular in his 
 inquiries respecting the direction of the house, and 
 the course we meant to pursue ; he also said, that if 
 he should be able, he would go and search for Vail- 
 lant and Credit ; and he requested my permission to 
 take Vaillant'a blanket, if he should find it, to which 
 1 agreed, and mentioned it in my notes to the officers. 
 Scarcely were these arrangements finished, before 
 Perrault and Fontano were seized with a lit of dizzi- 
 ness, and betrayed other symptoms of extreme debility. 
 Some tea was quickly prepared for them, and after 
 
 drinking it, and eating a few morsels of burnt leather, 
 
 they recovered, and expressed their desire to go for- 
 ward : but the other men, alarmed at what they had 
 ju-t witnessed, became doubtful of their own strength, 
 and. giving way to absolute dejection, declared their 
 own inability to move. I now earnestly pressed upon 
 them the necessity of continuing our journey, as the
 
 In the Atk tie //■ g ' 309 
 
 only means "I saving their own lives, as well as tl 
 of oar friends at the tent : and, after much entreaty, 
 got them to Bet oul at ten A.M. : Belangerand Michel 
 were left at the encampment, and proposed to start 
 Bhortly afterwards. By the time we had gone al 
 two hundred yards, Perrault became again dizzy, and 
 desired us to halt, which we did, until he, Ing, 
 
 proposed to march on. Ten minutes more had hardly 
 elapsed before he again desired us to stop, and, burst- 
 
 into tears, declared he was totally exhausted, and 
 nnahle to accompany us further. As the encampment 
 was not more than a quarter of a mile distant, we pro- 
 
 il that he Bhould return to it. and rejoin Belac 
 and Michel, whom we kn< w to he still there, from 
 perceiving the smoke of a fresh fire ; and 1 they 
 
 had not made any preparation for starting when we 
 hit them. If<' readily acquiesced in tin- proposition, 
 and having taken a friendly leave "f each of us, and 
 enjoined us to make all the haste we could in Bending 
 relief, he turned back, keeping his gun and ammuni- 
 tion. We watched him until lie was near t<> tin' tin', 
 and then proceeded. During these detentions, Augus- 
 tus becoming impatient of the delay, had walked on, 
 and we lost sight of him. The labor we experienced 
 in wading through tin- deep snow induced us to ci 
 a moderate sized lake, which lay in our track, but we 
 found this operation tar more harassing. Asthesur-
 
 304 Thirty Tears 
 
 face of the ice was perfectly smooth, we slipt at almost 
 every step, and were frequently blown clown by the 
 wind with such force as to shake our whole frames. 
 Poor Fontano was completely exhausted by the la- 
 bor of making this traverse, and we made a halt until 
 his strength was recruited, by which time the party 
 was benumbed with cold. Proceeding again, he got 
 on tolerably well for a little time, but being again 
 seized with faintness and dizziness, he fell often, and 
 at length exclaimed that he could go no further. We 
 immediately stopped, and endeavored to encourage 
 him to persevere, until we should find some willows, 
 to encamp ; he insisted, however, that he could not 
 march any longer through this deep snow ; and said, 
 that if he should even reach our encampment thia 
 evening, he must be left there, provided tripe de roche 
 cotild not be procured to recruit his strength. The 
 poor man was overwhelmed with grief, and seemed de- 
 sirous to remain at that spot. We were about two 
 miles from the place where the Other men had been 
 left, and as the track to it was beaten, we proposed to 
 
 him to return thither, as we thought it probable he 
 would find the men still there : al any rate he would 
 be able to get fuel to keep him warm during the oighl : 
 and, "ii the next day, he could follow their track to 
 the officers' tl Ql ; and, should the path be covered by 
 
 now, the pines we had passed yesterday would 
 
 guide him, as they were yet in view.
 
 In the Arctic l> 
 
 I i ninnt describe my anguish on the >n of 
 
 separating from another companion ander circumstan- 
 
 • distressing. There was, however, no alternative. 
 The extreme debility of the reel of the puny, pul 
 carrying him quite out of the question, as he him 
 admitted ; and it was evident that the frequent del 
 lir must occasion it' he accompanied us, and did not 
 
 i strength, must have endangered the lives of the 
 whole. By returning he had the prospect of getting 
 to the t'-nt where ft roche could be obtained, 
 
 which agreed with him better than with any other of 
 the party, and which he was always very assiduous in 
 gathering. After some hesitation he determined on 
 returning, and Bel out, having bid each of us farewell 
 in the tenderest manner. We watched him with in- 
 expressible anxiety for some time, ami were rejoiced to 
 find, though he had got on slowly, that he kept on his 
 legs better than b fore. Antonio Fontano was an 
 
 Italian, and had served many years in I ><■ Meuron's 
 
 regiment. Be had spoken to me that very mornii 
 
 and after his first attack of di/./imss, aboul his t'atl. 
 
 and had begged, thai Bhould he survive. 1 would take 
 him with me to England, and put him in the way i I 
 reaching home. 
 
 The party was now reduced to five persons, Adam, 
 Peltier, I Samandre, and myself. Continui 
 
 the journey, we came, after an hour's walk, to BOme
 
 306 Thirty Years 
 
 willows, and encamped under the shelter of a rock, 
 having walked in the whole four miles and a half. 
 We made an attempt to gather some tripe de roche, 
 hut could not, owing to the severity of the weather. 
 Our supper, therefore, consisted of tea and a few mor- 
 sels of leather. 
 
 Augustus did not make his appearance, but we felt 
 no alarm at his absence, supposing he would go to the 
 tent if he missed our track. Having lire, we procured 
 a little sleep. Next morning the breeze was light and 
 the weather mild, which enabled us to collect some 
 tripe de roche, and to enjoy the only meal we had for 
 four days. We derived great benefit from it, and 
 walked with considerably more ease than yesterday. 
 Without the strength it supplied, we should certainly 
 have been unable to oppose the strong breeze we had 
 in the afternoon. After walking about five miles, we 
 came upon the borders of Marten Lake, and were re- 
 joiced to find it frozen, so that we could continue oui 
 course straight for Fort Enterprize. We encamped at 
 the first rapid in Winter River amidst willows and al- 
 ders ; bul these were so frozen, and the snow (ell so thick, 
 
 thai the men had great difficulty in making a lire. 
 This proving insufiicienl to warm us, or even thaw 
 our slioes, and having no food to prepare, we crept 
 
 under our blankets. The arrival in a well known part, 
 /nils of the men to a high pitch, and we
 
 In the Arcti ms. 307 
 
 kepi up a cheerful conversation until si 
 us. The nighi was very Btormy, and the morning 
 Bcarcelj •; but, being desirous to reach the 
 
 house to-day, we commenced our journey very early. 
 We were gratified by the sight of a large herd of rein- 
 deer on the side ill" the hill near the trade, but our 
 only hunter, Adam, was too feeble to pursue them. 
 Our shoes and garments were stiffened by the fi 
 and we walked in great pain until we arrived at sum.' 
 
 stunted pines, at which we halted, made a g 1 I 
 
 and procured the refreshment i f tea. The weather 
 bee >ming fine in the afternoon, we continued our 
 journey, passed the Dog-rib Rock, and encamj 
 among a clump of pines of considerable growth, about 
 a mile further on. Bere we enjoyed the comfort of a 
 large fire for the first time Bince our departure from 
 the bi a coasl ; bui this gratificati m was purchasi <1 at 
 tlic expense of many Bevere falls thai we had in cr 
 ing a Btony valley, to get to these pines. There v 
 no tripe d< roche } and we drank tea and ate soma of 
 our shoes for supper. N \t morning, after taking the 
 usual repasl of tea, we procei di d to the house. Mus- 
 ing on what we were likely to find there, our minds 
 wen d hope and f< ar, and, 1 1 ml rai 
 
 the custom we had kept up, of supp irits 
 
 aversation, we wenl silently forward. 
 At length we reached Fori Enterprise, and to our
 
 308 Thirty Tears 
 
 infinite disappointment and grief found it a perfectly 
 desolate habitation. There was no deposit of pro- 
 vision, no trace of the Indians, no letter from Mr. 
 Wentzel to point out where the Indians might be 
 found. It would be impossible for me to describe our 
 sensations after entering this miserable abode, and 
 discovering how we had been neglected ; the whole 
 party shed tears, not so much for our own fate, as for 
 that of our friends in the rear, whose lives depended 
 entirely on our sending immediate relief from this 
 place. 
 
 I found a note, however, from Mr. Back, stating 
 that he had reached the house two days ago, and was 
 going in search of the Indians, at a part where St. 
 Germain deemed it probable they might be found. If 
 lie was unsuccessful, he purposed walking to Fort 
 Providence, and sending succor from thence. But lie 
 doubted whether he or his party could perform the 
 journey to that place in their present debilitated state. 
 It was evident that any supply that could be sent 
 from Fort Providence would lie long in reaching us, 
 ;nnl could not he sufficient to enable us to afford any 
 tance to our companions behind, and that, the only 
 
 relief for them must he procured from the Indians. I 
 
 i' solved, therefore, on going also in search of them ; 
 hut my companions were absolutely incapable of pro- 
 ceeding, and I thought, by hailing two or three days.
 
 In the Art 
 
 they mighl gather a little strength, whilst the delay 
 would afford us the chance of Learning whether Mr. 
 Back had seen the Indians. 
 
 We now Looked round for the means of subsistence, 
 and were gratified to find Beveral deer Bkins, which 
 had been thrown away during our former reside] 
 The bones were gathered from the heap of ashes, th 
 with the skins, and the addition of tri che, we 
 
 considered would support us tolerably well for a time. 
 A- to the house, the parchmenl being torn from the 
 windows, the apartment we I for our abode 
 
 was exj all the rigor of tl n. We en- 
 
 deavored to exclude the wind as much as possible, l>y 
 placing Loose boards against the apertures. The tem- 
 perature was now between L5°and 20° below zero. 
 We procured fuel by pulling up the flooring of the 
 other rooms, and water for the purpose of cooking by 
 melting the snow. Whilst we were seated round the 
 fire, singing the deer skin for supper, we were rejoi 
 by the unexpected entrance of Augustus. Ee bad 
 followed quite a differenl course from ours, and the 
 circumstance of his having found his way through a 
 part of the country he had never been in before, must 
 be considered a remarkable proof of sagacity. The 
 unusual earlinessof this winter became manifest tons 
 from the Btate of things at this Bpot. Las! year at 
 the Bame Beason, and still Later, there had been yeij
 
 310 Thirty Years 
 
 little snow on the ground, and we were surrounded by 
 vast herds of reindeer. Now there were but few 
 recent tracks of these animals, and the snow was up- 
 wards of two feet deep. Winter Eiver was then open, 
 now it was frozen two feet thick. 
 
 When I arose the following morning, my body and 
 limbs were so swollen that I was unable to walk more 
 than a few yards. Adam was in a still worse condi- 
 tion, being absolutely incapable 01 rising without as- 
 sistance. My other companions fortunately experienced 
 this inconvenience in a less degree, and went to col- 
 lect bones, and some tripe de rocJie, which supplied 
 us with two meals. The bones were quite acrid, and 
 the soup extracted from them excoriated the mouth 
 if taken alone, but it was somewhat milder when 
 boiled with tripe de roche, and we even thought the 
 mixture palatable, with the addition of salt, of which 
 a cask had been fortunately left here in the spring. 
 Augustus to-day set two fishing-lines below the rapid. 
 On his way thither he saw- two deer, but had not 
 Qgth to follow them. 
 
 On the loth the wind blew violently from south- 
 east, and the snow drifted bo much, that the party 
 mflned to the house. In the afternoon of the 
 following day Belanger arrived with a note from Mr. 
 Back, stating that he had Been do trace of the tndians, 
 and desiring further instructions as to the course he
 
 I ii thi Arctic Regions. 31 1 
 
 should pursue. Belanger's situation, however, 
 quired our first care, as h< 
 
 and covered with ice, having fallen into a rapid, and 
 for the third time since we left the coast, narrowly es- 
 caped drowning. Ee did not recover sufficiently to 
 answer our questions, until we had rubbed him for 
 
 • time, changed his dress, and given him Bome 
 warm Boup. My companions nursed him with the 
 greatest kindness, and the desire of restoring him to 
 health s< emed to absorb all regard for their own situ- 
 ation. 1 w with peculiar pleasure this < 
 duet, so different from that which they had recently 
 pursued, when every tender feeling was suspended by 
 the desire of self-preservation. They now no long 
 betrayed impatience or despondency, but were com- 
 
 d and cheerful, and had entirely given np the 
 
 practii i" Bwearing, to which the Canadian voyagers 
 
 are so Lamentably addicted. Our conversation natu- 
 rally turned npon the prosp tting relief, and 
 upon the means which were best adapted for obtain- 
 
 it. The absence of all traces of Indians on Win- 
 ter Biver, convinced me that they were at this time 
 on the way to Fort Providence, and that by proceed- 
 ing towards that post we should overtake them, 
 they move slowly when they have their families with 
 them Tins route also offered us the prospect of hill- 
 in;;- deer, in the vicinity of Reindeer Lake, in which
 
 312 Thirty Years 
 
 neighborhood, our men in their journeys to and fro 
 last winter, had always found them abundant. Upon 
 these grounds I determined on taking the route to 
 Fort Providence as soon as possible, and wrote to Mr. 
 Back desiring him to join me at Reindeer Lake, and 
 detailing the occurrences since we had parted, that 
 our friends might receive relief in case of any accident 
 happening to me. 
 
 Belanger did not recover sufficient strength to leave 
 us before the 18th. His answers as to the exact part 
 of Round-Eock Lake in which he had left Mr. Back, 
 were very unsatisfactory ; and we could only collect that 
 it was a considerable distance, and he was still going 
 on with the intention of halting at the place where 
 Akaitcho was encamped last summer, about thirty 
 miles off. This distance appeared so great, that I 
 told Belanger it was very unsafe for him to attempt it 
 alone, and that he would be several days in accom- 
 plishing it. He stated, however, that as the track 
 was beaten, he should experience little fatigue, and 
 cned so confident, that I suffered him to depart 
 with a supply of singed hide. Next day I received 
 information which explained why lie was so unwilling 
 to acquaint us with the situation of Mr. Back's party. 
 Be dreaded that I should resolve upon joining it, 
 when our numbers Bhould 1"' so great as to consume 
 at once everj thing St. Germain might kill, if by acci
 
 In the An 313 
 
 .! he should be successful in hunting. He eve i 
 endeavored to entire away our other hunter Adam, 
 and proposed to him to carry off the only kettle we 
 
 had, and without which we could not have B1 
 two days. Adam's inability to move, however, j 
 eluded him from agreeing to the proposal, hut he 
 could assign no reason for not acquainting me with it, 
 previous to Belang ! I in- 
 
 elin I Dsider the whole matter as a fiction 
 
 Adam's, but he persisted in his story without wa\ 
 ing ; and Belanger, when we met again, confessed 
 that every part of it was true. It is painful to have 
 to record a fact bo derogatory to human nature, but I 
 have deemed it proper to mention it, to shew the dif- 
 ficulties we had to contend with, and the effect which 
 distress had in warping the feelings and understand] 
 of the most diligent and obedient of our party ; 
 -mil Belanger had been imed up to thi 
 
 t ime. 
 
 In making arrac irture, Adam 
 
 disclosed to me, for the first time, thai he was affi 
 ed with (edematous swellings in some parts of the 
 body, to Buch a d preclude the slightest at- 
 
 tempt at marching ; and npon m j ing my sur- 
 
 prise at his having hithi I 
 tent of his malady, anion- ot ions the 
 
 tails of the precedin [t nowl me 
 
 14
 
 314 Thirty Years 
 
 necessary to abandon the original intention of proceed- 
 ing with the whole party towards Fort Providence, 
 and Peltier and Samandre having volunteered to re- 
 main with Adam, I determined on setting out with 
 Benoit and Augustus, intending to send them relief 
 by the first party of Indians we should meet. My 
 clothes were so much torn, as to be quite inadequate 
 to screen me from the wind, and Peltier and Samandre 
 fearing that I might suffer on the journey in conse- 
 quence, kindly exchanged with me parts of their dress, 
 desiring me to send them skins in return by the In- 
 dians. Having patched up three pair of snow-shoes, 
 and singed a considerable quantity of skin for the jour- 
 ney, we started on the morning of the 20th. Previous 
 to my departure, I packed op the journals of the offi- 
 cers, the charts, and Bome other doeuments, together 
 with a letter addressed to the Under Secretary of 
 te, detailing the occurrences of the Expedition up 
 to tliis period, which package was given in charge to 
 Peltierand Samandre, with direction that it should he 
 broughl away by the Indians who might come to th( 
 1 also instructed them to forward succor immediately 
 on its arrival to our companions in the rear, which 
 
 they solemnly promised to do, and 1 left a letter for 
 
 . friends. Richardson and Bood, to be sen! at the 
 same tine'. I thoughl i < iy to admonish Pel- 
 
 tier, Samandrt, and Adam,toeat two meals every day,
 
 Iii the Arctic Regions. 
 
 in order to keep up their Btrength, which they pro- 
 they would do. No language thai I 
 could adequately describe the parting Bcene. I 
 shall only say there was fat more calmness and resig- 
 nation i" the Divine will i by every one than 
 could have b< i ted. We were all cheered by 
 the hope thai the Indians would be found by the i ne 
 party, and relief Bent to the other. Those who re- 
 mained entreated us to make all the haste we could, 
 and expressed their hope of seeing the Indians in ten 
 or twelve da; 
 
 At fust Btarting we w< re bo fe< ble as Bcara ly to be 
 aide tn move forwards, and the desci o1 i f the bank 
 of the river through the deep Bnow wae a Bevere labor, 
 When we rani'- upon the ice, where the Bnow was less 
 deep, we gol on better, but after walking six hours 
 we had only gained four miles, and were then com- 
 pelled by fatigue to encamp on the borders of Round- 
 Rock Lake Augustus tried for fish here, but without 
 thai our fa kin and tea. ( impo- 
 
 sing ourselves to rest, we lay cl — to each other for 
 warmth. We found the nighl bitterly cold, and the 
 wind pierced through our famished frai 
 
 The nexl morning was mild ami pleasant for travel- 
 ing, and we s't out after breakfast We bad not, 
 however, gone many yards before I had the misfortune 
 to break my Bnow- j falling I two rocks.
 
 316 Thirty Year 8 
 
 This accident prevented me from keeping pace with 
 Benoit and Augustus, and in the attempt I became 
 quite exhausted. Being convinced that their being 
 delayed on my account might prove of fatal conse- 
 quence to the rest, I resolved on returning to the 
 house, and letting them proceed alone in search of the 
 Indians. I therefore halted them only whilst I wrote 
 a note to Mr. Back, stating the reason of my return, 
 and requesting he would send meat from Reindeer 
 Lake by these men, if St. Germain should kill any 
 animals there. If Benoit should miss Mr. Back, I di- 
 rected him to proceed to Fort Providence, and fur- 
 nished him with a letter to the gentleman in charge 
 of it, requesting immediate supplies might be sent 
 to us. 
 
 On my arrival ai the house, I found Samandre very 
 dispirited, and too weak, as lie said, to render any as- 
 sistance to Peltier; upon whom the whole labor of 
 getting wood Mil collecting the means of subsistence 
 would have devolved. Conscious, too, that his 
 : trength would have been unequal to these tasks, they 
 had determined upon taking only one meal each day ; 
 under these circumstances 1 considered my return as 
 particularly fortunate, as I hoped to stimulate 8a- 
 mandrd to exertion, and at any rate 1 could contribute 
 "He' lielj. to Peltier. I undertook the office of cook- 
 ing, and insisted thai they should eat twice a day
 
 /// the An tic //< jl ol7 
 
 whenever food could be procured, but a I 
 weak to pound the bones, Peltier I i do that in 
 
 addition to his more fatiguing task of getting wood. 
 We li.nl ;i violent snow Btorm all tb day, ami 
 
 this gloomy weather contributed to the depression of 
 spirits under which Adam ami Samandre were laborii 
 Neither of them would quit their beds, ami they 
 
 BCai • ars all day ; in vain 
 
 did Peltier and myself endeavor to cheer 1 1 1 . m. We 
 had even to use much cut: Lied 
 
 upou tin in t<» take th^ meals we had prepared. Our 
 «itti.itii»ii was indeed di . hut in compari 
 
 with that of our friends in the rear, we consid* red i: 
 happy. Their conditiou gave us unceasing solicitude, 
 ami was the principal Bubject of our conversation. 
 
 Though th«' weather was stormy on the 26th, 
 iiiamlp- assisted me to gather tripe dt roche. Adam, 
 who was very ill. ami could not now he prevailed upon 
 • at this weed, subsisted principally on hours, though 
 In' also partook of tin- Boup. The //■' bad 
 
 hitherto afforded us our chief support, and we natu- 
 rally fell great ui at the | of b ing 
 
 i' it, by its being so frozen nder it 
 
 impossible for us to gather it. 
 
 We perceived our Btrength declii .and 
 
 every exertion began to be irksome; when we w< 
 once seated the erreatesl effort was necessary i
 
 318 Thirty Years 
 
 to rise, and we had frequently to lift each other from 
 our seats ; but even in this pitiable condition we con- 
 versed cheerfully, being sanguine as to the speedy ar- 
 rival of the Indians. We calculated indeed that if 
 they should be near the situation where they had re- 
 mained last winter, our men would have reached them 
 by this day. Having expended all the wood which we 
 could procure from our present dwelling, without en- 
 dangering its falling, Peltier began this day to pull 
 down the partitions of the adjoining houses. Though 
 these were only distant about twenty yards, yet the 
 increase of labor in carrying the wood fatigued him so 
 much, that by the evening he was exhausted. On the 
 nexl day his weakness was such, especially in the arms, 
 of which he chiefly complained, that he with dilliculty 
 lifted the hatchet ; still he persevered, Samandr6 and 
 I assisting him in bringing in the wood, but our uni- 
 ted strength could only collect sufficient to replenish 
 the lio- four limes in the course of the day. As the 
 insides of our mouths had become sore from eating the 
 bone soup, we relinquished the use of it, and now boil* d 
 our skin, which mode of dressing we found more 
 
 palatable than frying it, as we had hitherto dene. 
 
 On the 29th, Peltier felt his pains mure severe, and 
 Could only cut a few pieces of wood. Samaiidiv, who 
 
 was still almosl as weak, relieved him a little time, 
 and 1 i them in carrying in the wood. We
 
 /// the Arctic /.' . 319 
 
 endeavored to pick Borne tri\ eAe, but in vain, 
 as ii was entirely frozen. In turning np the snow, in 
 Bearchiog for bones, I found se^ A bark, 
 which proved a valuable acquisition, as we were aim 
 destitute of dry wood proper for kindling the fire. We 
 saw a herd of reind ting on the river, about 
 half ;i mile from the house ; they remained there a 
 considerable time, but none of the party felt them- 
 selves sufficiently Btrong to go after them, nor • 
 there one of us who could have fired a gun without 
 ng it 
 Whilst we were Beated round the fire this i v< niu ;, 
 (urging about the anticipated relief, the convei 
 tion was Buddenly interrupted by Peltier's exclaiming 
 with joy, "Ah! l< monde!" imagining that he heard 
 the Indians in the other room j immediately af 
 wards, to his hitter disappointment, Dr. Richards 
 and Hepburn entered, each carrying his bundle. Pel- 
 tier, how red himself enough to expi 
 his joy at their sale arrival, and his regrel that tl 
 companions were not with them. \\'\. : | ; w them 
 alone my own mind was instantly filled with apprehen- 
 sions respecting my friend II 1. and our other com- 
 panions, which were immediate ly confirmed by I 
 iter's melancholy communication, that Mr. II 
 and Michel id. Perrault and Fontano had 
 neither reached the tent, nor been heard of by them.
 
 320 Thirty Years 
 
 This intelligence produced a melancholy despondency 
 in the minds of my party, and on that account the 
 particulars were deferred until another opportunity. 
 We were all shocked at beholding the emaciated coun- 
 tenances of the Doctor and Hepburn, as they strongly 
 evidenced their extremely debilitated state. The al- 
 teration in our appearance was equally distressing to 
 them, for since the swellings had subsided, we were 
 little more than skin and bone. The Doctor particu- 
 larly remarked the sepulchral tone of our voices, 
 which he requested us to make more cheerful if 
 possible, unconscious that his own partook of the same 
 key. 
 
 Hepburn having shot a partridge, which was brought 
 to the house, the Doctor tore out the feathers, and 
 having held it to the fire a few minutes, divided it 
 into- seven portions. Each piece was ravenously de- 
 voured 1))' my companions, as it was the first morsel 
 of flesh any of us had tasted for thirty-one days, un- 
 less indeed the small gristly particles which we found 
 occasionally adhering to the pounded bones may be 
 termed flesh. Our spirits were revived by this small 
 supply, and the Doctor endeavored to raise them still 
 higher by the prospect of Bepburn's being able to kill 
 
 a de i- next day, as they had seen, and even Bred at, 
 ,1 near the hoU8e. lie endeavored, too, to rouse 
 
 ome at trillion to the comfort of our apartment.
 
 Ju the Arctic Regions. 
 
 and particularly to roll up, in the day, our Man!, 
 which (expressly for the convenience of Adam and 
 Samandre,) we had been in the habil of Leaving by the 
 fire where we lay on them. Tl. r having brought 
 
 his prayer-book and Testament, Borne prayers and 
 Ims, and portions of scripture, appropriate to our 
 situation, were read, and we retired to be 1. 
 
 • morning the Doctor and Eepburn weni 
 
 early in fdeer : but, though they saw several 
 
 herds and fii Bhots, they were not bo fortunate 
 
 a> to kill any, being too weak to hold their nuns 
 
 idily. The cold compelled the former to return 
 
 i. hut Hepburn i antil late in the evening. 
 
 My occupation was to search for skins nnder the 
 
 Bnow, it being now our object immediately to get all 
 
 that we could, but I had not Btrength to drag in more 
 
 than two of those whieh were within twenty yards of 
 
 the house until tie- Doctor came and assisted me. 
 
 We made up our Btock to twenty-six, but Beveral of 
 
 them were putrid, and Bcarcely eatable, even by men 
 
 Buffering the extremity *'i' famine. Peltier and Sa- 
 
 mandrs continued very weak and dispirited, and they 
 
 were unable to cut tire-wood. Hepburn had in con- 
 
 u. me that Iabori rm after I 
 
 i v . The Doctor havii • d the swelled parts 
 
 of Adam's body, a large quantity of water flowed out, 
 
 and he obtained Borne ease, but still kept his hid.
 
 322 Thirty Years 
 
 After our usual supper of singed skin and bone 
 soup, Dr. Bichardson acquainted me with the afflict- 
 ing circumstances attending the death of Mr. Hood 
 and Michel, and detailed the occurrences subsequent 
 to my departure from them, which I shall give from 
 his journal, in his own words ; but I must here be per- 
 mitted to express the heart-felt sorrow with which I 
 was overwhelmed at the loss of so many companions ; 
 especially for that of my friend Mr. Hood, to whose 
 zealous and able co-operation I had been indebted for 
 so much valuable assistance during the Expedition, 
 w T hilst the excellent qualities of his heart engaged my 
 warmest regard. His scientific observations, together 
 with his maps and drawings, evince a variety of talent, 
 which, had his life been spared, must have rendered 
 him a distinguished ornament to his profession, and 
 which will cause his death to be felt as a loss to the 
 service.
 
 / the A Begi ns. 
 
 OHAPTEB XII. 
 
 Db. RICHARDSON'S NARRATIVE. 
 
 After Captain Franklin had bidden ua farewell, we 
 remained Beated by the fire-side as long asthewillo 
 the men had cut for as before they departed, lasted. 
 We had oo frtpi ■ that day, but drank an in- 
 
 fusion "f tin- country tea-plant, which was grateful 
 from its warmth, although it afforded no Bustenao 
 We tii"ii retired to bed, where we remained all the 
 next day, as the weather was Btormy, and the snow- 
 drift bo heavy, as to destroy every prospect of Buccess 
 in our endeavors to light a fire with the green and 
 frozen willows, which wen- our only fuel. Through 
 the extreme kindness and forethought of a lady, the 
 party, previous to Leaving London, had been furnished 
 with a small collection of religious books, of which 
 still retained two or three of the irtahle, and 
 
 they proved of incalculable benefit to as. We read 
 portions of them to each other as we lay in bed, in ad-
 
 324 Thirty Years 
 
 dition to the morning and evening service, and found 
 that they inspired us on each perusal with so strong a 
 sense of the omnipresence of a beneficent God, that 
 our situation, even in these wilds, appeared no longer 
 destitute ; and we conversed, not only with calmness, 
 but with cheerfulness, detailing with unrestrained 
 confidence the past events of our lives, and dwelling 
 with hope on our future prospects. Had my poor 
 friend been spared to revisit his native land, I should 
 look back to this period with unalloyed delight. 
 
 On the morning of the 29th, the weather, although 
 still cold, was clear, and I went out in quest of tripe 
 de roche, leaving Hepburn to cut willows for a fire, 
 and Mr. Hood in bed. I had no success, as yester- 
 day's snow drift was so frozen on the surface of the 
 rocks that I could not collect any of the weed ; but, 
 on my return to the tent, I found that Michel, the 
 Iroquois, had come with a note from Mr. Franklin, 
 which stated, that this man, and Jean Baptist Belan- 
 ger being unable to proceed, were about to return to 
 lis, and that a mile beyond our present encampment 
 there was a clump of pine trees, to which he recom- 
 mended us to remove the tent. Michel informed us 
 that he quitted Mr. Franklin's party yesterday morn- 
 ing, but, that having missed his way, he had ) 
 
 the night on the snow a mileor two to the northward 
 of us. Belanger, he said, being impatient, had lefl
 
 /// the Arctic /•' 
 
 bout two hoi ier, and as h 
 
 arrived, he supposed he had gone astray. It will be 
 se< n in the Bequel, that we had more than Buffi 
 n ason to tl« <nl »l the truth of this story. 
 
 Michel now produced a hare and a partridge w 
 he had killed in the morning. This un I sup- 
 
 ply of provision was received by us with a d 
 of gratitude t«> the Almighty for hi- ad we 
 
 1 upon W the instrument he had chosen 
 
 t<> pr< f cold, and 
 
 Mr. Hood i ffered to Bhare his buffalo ruin- with him 
 at night: I crave him one of two shirts which I wore, 
 whilst Hepburn, in the warmth of his heart, 
 claimed, " How I shall love this man it' 1 find that 
 not ttdl lies like the others." Our meals 
 being finished, we arranged that th .it oi 
 
 the things should be carried to the pines the next day ; 
 and after reading the evening - retired to b d 
 
 lull of hope. 
 
 Early in the morning Hepburn, Michel, and my- 
 Hclf, carried the ammunition, and i 
 
 . articles t'> the pines. Michel was our guide, 
 and it did not occur to us at the time that hie 
 ducting u mpatible with 
 
 if havin . us. He 
 
 now informed us that he had, on his way to the U nt, 
 lri'i on the hill above the pi I orty-eight
 
 326 Thirty Years 
 
 balls, which Perrault had given him when with the 
 rest of Mr. Franklin's party, he took leave of him. 
 It will he seen, on a reference to Mr. Franklin's jour- 
 nal, that Perrault carried his gun and ammunition 
 with him when they parted from Michel and Bellin- 
 ger. After we had made a fire, and drank a little of 
 the country tea, Hepburn and I returned to the tent, 
 where we arrived in the evening, much exhausted with 
 our journey. Michel preferred sleeping where he was, 
 and requested us to leave him the hatchet, which we 
 did, after he had promised to come early in the morn- 
 ing to assist us in carrying the tent and bedding. 
 Mr. Hood remained in bed all day. Seeing nothing 
 of Belanger to-day, we gave him up for lost. 
 
 On the 11th, after waiting until late in the morn- 
 ing for Michel, who did not come, Hepburn and I 
 loaded ourselves with the bedding, and accompanied 
 by Mr. Hood, set out for the pines. Mr. Hood was 
 much affected with dimness of sight, giddiness, and 
 other symptoms of extreme debility, which caused us 
 to move very Blow, and to make frequent halts. On 
 arriving at the pines, we were much alarmed to find 
 that Michel was absent. We feared that he had Lost 
 his way in coming to us in the morning, although it 
 not easy to conjecture how that could have hap- 
 j i Di dj as our footsteps of yesterday were very distinct. 
 Hepburn went hark for the tent, and returned with it
 
 is, 327 
 
 or dusk, completely w with the fatigu 
 
 the day. Michel, too, arrived ;it the same time, and 
 relieved our anxiety on his account. Be reported thai 
 he had been in ch i le deer which passed near his 
 
 Bleeping-place in the morning, and although he did 
 not come up with them, yet that he found a wolf 
 which had been killed by the Btroke of a deer's horn, 
 ami had brought a pari "1' it. We Implicitly believed 
 this story then, hut afterwards became convinced from 
 circumstano detail of which may be spared, 
 
 that it must have been a portion of the body ol Be- 
 langer or Perrault. A question of moment here 
 presents itself; namely, whether he actually murdered 
 e men, or either of them, or whether he found the 
 bodies on the snow. Captain Franklin, who is tip' 
 besl able to judge of this matter, from knowing their 
 situation when he parted from them, suggested the 
 former idea, and that both Belanger and Perrault had 
 a sacrificed. Winn Perrault turned back, Captain 
 Franklin watched him until In- reached a .-mall group 
 of willows, which was immediately adjoining to the fire, 
 and concealed it from view, and at this time the smoke 
 of fresh fuel was distinctly visible. Captain Franklin 
 conj that Michel having already destr yed I 
 
 langer, completed his crime by Perrault't death, in 
 order to screen himself from detection. Although 
 this opinion is founded only mi circumstances, and is
 
 328 Thirty Years 
 
 unsupported by direct evidence, it has been judged 
 proper to mention it, especially as the subsequent 
 conduct of the man shewed that he was capable of 
 committing such a deed. The circumstances are very 
 strong. It is not easy to assign any other adequate 
 motive for his concealing from us that Perrault had 
 turned back, and his request overnight that we should 
 leave him the hatchet ; and his cumbering himself 
 with it when he went out in the morning, unlike a 
 hunter who makes use only of his knife when he kills 
 a deer, seem to indicate that he took it for the purpose 
 of cutting up something that he knew to be frozen. 
 These opinions, however, are the result of subsequent 
 consideration. We passed this night in the open air. 
 
 On the following morning the tent was pitched, and 
 Michel went out early, refused my offer to accompany 
 bin), and remained out the whole day. He would not 
 sleep in the lent at night, but chose to lie at the fire- 
 side. 
 
 On the 13th there was a heavy gale of wind, and 
 we passed the day by the lire. Next day, about two 
 P.M., tie' gale abating, Michel sel out as he sai<l to 
 hunt, hui returned unexpectedly in a very Bhort time. 
 r J 'his conduct surprised us, ami his contradictory and 
 rs to our questions excited some sus- 
 picions, hut they did not turn towards the truth. 
 
 October loth. — In the course of this day Michel
 
 In ill Artie Regi 
 
 id much regrel that be ha I behind Mr. 
 
 Franklin's party, and declared thai he would m- - 
 for the house at ■<■ if he knew the way. We en- 
 deavored to Boothe him, and to rai e hia ho] 
 [ndiana Bpeedily coming to our relief, bnt without 
 I!- !■• fusi d tn assist as in cutting wood, but 
 about noon, after much solicit ition, he Bel out to hunt. 
 Eepburn gathered a kettle of tripe de roche, l»nt 
 froze hia fingers. Both Eepburn and I fatigued our- 
 selves much to-day in pursuing a flock of partrid 
 from one part to another of the group of willows, in 
 which the hut was Bituated, but we were too weak to be 
 able to approach them with Bufficii at caution. In the 
 evening Michel n turned, having mot with do 
 
 i day he refused either to hunt or cat wood, 
 spoke in a very surly manner, and threatened to leave 
 us. Qnder these circumstances, Mr. II land [deem- 
 ed if better to promise if he would hunt diligently for 
 four days, that then we would give Hepburn a letter 
 
 iklin, a compass, inform him what 
 to pursue, and le1 them proceed together to the fort, 
 non-arrival of the Indiana to our relief, now led us 
 arthal some accident hadhappened to Mr. Frank- 
 and we placed no confidence in the exertions of 
 the Canadians that accompanied him. but we had the 
 fullest confidence in Hepburn's returning the mom 
 ho could obtain as.- istance.
 
 330 Thirty Years 
 
 On the 17th I went to conduct Michel to where 
 Vaillant's blanket was left, and after walking about 
 three miles, pointed out the hills to him at a distance, 
 and returned to the hut, having gathered a bagful of 
 tripe de roclie on the way. It was easier to gather 
 this weed on a march than at the tent, for the exercise 
 of walking produced a glow of heat, which enabled us 
 to withstand for a time the cold to which we were ex- 
 posed in scraping the frozen surface of the rocks. On 
 the contrary, when we left the fire, to collect it in the 
 neighborhood of the hut, we became chilled at once, 
 and were obliged to return very quickly. 
 
 Michel proposed to remain out all night, and to hunt 
 next day on his way back. He returned in the after- 
 noon of the 18th, having found the blanket, together 
 with a bag containing two pistols, and some other 
 things which had been left beside it. We had some 
 tripe de roche, in the evening, but Mr. Hood, from the 
 constant griping it produced, was unable to eat more 
 than one or two spoonfuls, lie was no"w so weak as 
 to be scarcely able to sit up at the lire-side, and com- 
 plained thai the least breeze of wind seemed to blow 
 through his frame. He also suffered much from cold 
 during the night. We Lay close to each other, but the 
 heal of the body was no longer sufficient to thaw the 
 frozen rime formed by our breaths on the blankets that 
 covered him.
 
 Tn the ' ms. 331 
 
 Ai iliis period we avoided as much as possible 
 ing upon the hopelessness of our situation, and 
 rally endeavored to lead the conversation towards 
 our future prospects in life. The fact is, that with the 
 
 v of our strength, our minds decayed, and 
 no longer able to bear the contemplation of the hor- 
 rors that Burrounded us. Each of us. if 1 may be al- 
 lowed to judge from my own case, excused himself 
 from so doing by a desire of not shocking the feelii 
 of tin- others, for we were sensible of one anotl 
 weakness of intellect, though blind to our own. '\ • 
 were calm and resigned to our fate, nol a murmur 
 ped us, and we were punctual and fervent in our 
 add: the Supreme Being. 
 
 On the llMh Michel refused to hunt, oreven to as- 
 in carrying a log of wood to the fire, which was 
 
 heavyfor Hepburn's strength and mine. Mr. II I 
 
 endeavored to point out to him tin- necessity and duty 
 of exertion, and the cruelty of his quitting us without 
 leaving something for our support ; but thediscou 
 far from producing any beneficial effi med only 
 
 to i scite his anger, and amongsl other expressions he 
 made use of the following remarkable one ; •• It is no 
 hunting, there are no animals, you had better kill 
 
 and eat 1 .. •." A : r. he went out, but 
 
 returned very Boon, with a report thai he hi 
 
 three deer, which he was anal How from having
 
 332 Thirty Tears 
 
 wet his foot in a small stream of water thinly covered 
 with ice, and being consequently obliged to come to 
 the fire. The day was rather mild, and Hepburn and 
 I gathered a large kettleful of tripe de roche ; Michel 
 slept in the tent this night. 
 
 Sunday, October 20. — In the morning we again 
 urged Michel to go a hunting, that he might if possi- 
 ble leave us some provision, to-morrow being the day 
 appointed for his quitting us ; but he shewed great 
 unwillingness to go out, and lingered about the fire, 
 under the pretense of cleaning his gun. After we had 
 read the morning service, I went about noon to gather 
 some tripe de roche. leaving Mr. Hood sitting before 
 the tent at the fire-side, arguing with Michel ; Hep- 
 burn was employed cutting down a tree at a short dis- 
 tance from the tent, being desirous of accumulating a 
 quantity of fire-wood before he left us. A short time 
 niter I went out I heard the report of a gun, and 
 about ten minutes afterwards Hepburn called to me in 
 a voice of great alarm, to come directly. When I ar- 
 rived, 1 found pom- Hood lying lifeless at the fire-side, 
 a ball having apparently entered his forehead. I was 
 at first horror-struck with the idea, thai in a lit of 
 despondency he had hurried himself into the presence 
 of hi i almighty -I udge, by an act. of his ou □ hand ; but 
 induct of Michel Boon gave rise to other thoughts, 
 and excited suspicions which were confirmed, when
 
 Regi 333 
 
 DpoD examining the body, I discovered thai the Bhot 
 bad entered the back part of the head, and j issed out 
 at the forehead, and thai the muzzle of the gun had 
 b< en applied - I fire to the night-cap be- 
 
 hind. The gun, which was of the longi st kind supplied 
 t<> the Endians, could not have been placed in a 
 tion to inflict such a wound, except by a second person. 
 I ' 1 > n inquiring of Michel how it happened, he replied, 
 tli.it Mr. Hood had Benl him into the tenl for the short 
 gun, and thai during Ins absence the I a had 
 
 . ffj he did ool know whether by accidenl or not. 
 He held the Bhorl ■ an in his hand al the time he was 
 speaking tome. Hepburn afterwards informed me, 
 thai previous to the report of the gun, Mr. Hood and 
 Michel were Bpeaking to each other in an elevated, 
 angry tone ; thai Mr. Hood being seated at the fire- 
 Bide, waa hid from him by intervening willows, but 
 that on hearing the report he looked up, and saw 
 Michel rising up from before the tenl door, or ju 
 hind when' Mr. II ad then going into 
 
 the t' nt. Thinking thai the gun had been discharged 
 for the i": it, he did ool go to the fire 
 
 at first ; and when Michel called to him that Mr. 
 was d osiderable time had elapsed. Although 
 
 I (hired no1 openly to evince any suspicion thai I 
 
 ht Michel guilty of the i itedly 
 
 protested thai he was incapable of committing
 
 334 Thirty Years 
 
 an act, kept constantly on his guard, and carefully 
 avoided leaving Hepburn and me together. He was 
 evidently afraid of permitting us to converse in private, 
 and whenever Hepburn spoke, he inquired if he accu- 
 sal him of the murder. It is to be remarked, that he 
 understood English very imperfectly, yet sufficient to 
 render it unsafe for us to speak on the subject in- his 
 presence. We removed the body into a clump of 
 willows behind the tent, and, returning to the fire, 
 read the funeral service in addition to the evening 
 prayers. The loss of a young officer, of such distin- 
 guished and varied talents and application, may be 
 felt and duly appreciated by the eminent characters 
 under whose command he had served ; but the calm- 
 ness with which he contemplated the probable termi- 
 nation of alifc of uncommon promise ; and the patience 
 and fortitude with which he sustained, I may venture 
 to say, unparalleled bodily Bufferings, can only be 
 known to the companions of his distresses. Owing to 
 the effect thai the tripe de roche invariably had, when 
 he ventured to taste it, he undoubtedly suffered more 
 than any of the survivors of the party. Bich rateth'a 
 Scripturt Help was lying open beside the body, as ii 
 il bad fallen from hia hand, and it is probable thai he 
 was reading it at the instaul of his death. We pass- 
 ed the nighl in the tent together without rest, every 
 one being on his guard. Next day, having determined
 
 I It ■ 
 
 on going to the Fori itch and prepare 
 
 our cl >thea for the journey. We singed the hair 
 
 irt of the buffalo robe thai be] l,to Mr, II 1, 
 
 and boiled and ate it. Michel tried to persuade me 
 to go to the woods on the* Mine River, and 
 
 hunt for deer, instead of sroing to tin- Fort. In tin- 
 afternoon a partridges coming near the tent, 
 
 ralj which he Bhared with us. 
 . weather and fi head wind prevented 
 us from starting the following day, bui on the morning 
 the 'J."M '■■ irrying with us the remainder 
 
 of the singed rob . Eepburn and Michel had each a 
 gun, and I carried a small pistol, which Bepburn had 
 loaded for me. [n the course of the march Mi 
 alarmed us much by his gestures and conduct, wan 
 constantly muttering to himself, i 1 an unwill- 
 
 I it, and tried to [ me 
 
 i to the southward to the woods, where he said he 
 could maintain himself all the winter by killing di 
 In consequence of this behavior, and the expn 
 his countenance, I requested him to leave us and to go 
 to the southward by himself. This j • 
 his ill-nature, he threw ire bints 
 
 ing himself from all restraint on the morrow : and 
 i overheard him muttering threats againsi Bepburn, 
 whom he openly of having to) 
 
 him. Be also for the firel time.
 
 336 Thirty Years 
 
 of superiority in addressing me, as evinced that he 
 considered us to be completely in his power, and he 
 gave vent to several expressions of hatred towards the 
 white people, or as he termed us in the idiom of the 
 voyagers, the French, some of whom, he said, had 
 killed and eaten his uncle and two of his relations. In 
 short, taking every circumstance of his conduct into 
 consideration, I came to the conclusion, that he would 
 attempt to destroy us on the first opportunity that 
 offered, and that he had hitherto abstained from doing 
 so from his ignorance of the way to the Fort, but that 
 he would never suffer us to go thither in company 
 with him. In the course of the day he had several 
 times remarked that we were pursuing the same 
 course that Mr. Franklin was doing when we left him, 
 and that by keeping towards the setting sun he could 
 find his way himself. Eepburn and I were not in a 
 condition to resist even an open attack, nor could we 
 by any device escape from him. Our united strength 
 
 \v,;s far inferior to his, and, In 'side 1 lis gun, he was armed 
 with two pistols, an Indian bayonet, and a knife. In 
 the afternoon, coming to ;i rock on which there was 
 
 some tripe de roche, he halted, and said he would 
 gather it whilst we went on, and that lie would soon 
 overtake us. Eepburn and I were now loll together 
 
 for tin- first time siiwo Mr. 1 1 nod's death, ami In 1 ac- 
 quainted me with several material circumstancei
 
 * In i J. An 
 
 which he had observed of Michel's behavior, aad which 
 
 ifirmed me lb i that there v 
 
 for us except in bis death, and he I i be the 
 
 instrument of it. I determined, I was 
 
 thoroughly convinced of the i acha dread- 
 
 ful act, 1" t ponsibility upon myself; 
 
 and immediately upou Michi ling up, I put .in 
 
 end i" bia 1 ottng him through th with 
 
 istol. Had my own life alou 1, I 
 
 would no! have purchased it by such a m ; but 
 
 ilso with the protec- 
 tion of Hepburn's, a man, who, by his humane atten- 
 ds and d< I himself to me, 
 that I felt more anxiety for his Bafety than formy own. 
 Michel I do trip d and it was 
 lenl to us that he had halted for the purpose of 
 putting his gun in order, with the intention of attack- 
 ing us, perhaps, whilst we were in the act of encamp- 
 ing. 
 
 ding part of the narrative 
 upon many cir< ui I ' luct, not for 
 
 the pur; ivating his crime, but t<> put the 
 
 reader in possession of the reasons that influenced ni<- 
 in depriving a fellow creature of lifa Dp to the period 
 of his return to the tent, his conduct hs 
 and respectful t>> the officers, and in a conversation 
 
 between Captain Franklin, Mr Hood, and mj 
 
 15
 
 338 Thirty Years 
 
 Obstruction Rapid, it bad been proposed to give him 
 a reward upon our arrival at a post. His principles; 
 however, unsupported by a belief in the divine truths 
 of Christianity, were unable to withstand the pressure 
 of severe distress. His countrymen, the Iroquois, are 
 generally Christians, but he was totally uninstructed 
 and ignorant of the duties inculcated by Christianity ; 
 and from his long residence in the Indian country, 
 seems to have imbibed, or retained, the rules of con- 
 duct which the southern Indians prescribe to them- 
 selves. 
 
 On the two following days we had mild but thick 
 snowy weather, and as the view was too limited to 
 enable us to preserve a straight course, we remained 
 era amped amongst a few willows and dwarf pines, 
 about five miles from the tent. We found a species 
 of cornicularia, a kind of lichen, that was good toeal 
 when moistened and toasted over the fire : and w© 
 had ;i good many pieces 01 singed buffalo hide remain* 
 ing. 
 
 On the 26th, the weather being dear and extremely 
 cold, we resumed our march, which was very painful 
 from the depth of the snow, particularly on th" mar- 
 gins of the s:;i;ill l;il;rs thai lay in our route. We fre- 
 quently sunk under the \<'^' ] . of our blankets, and 
 obliged toassisteach otb r in getting up. A.ftei 
 walking aboul three miles and a half, however, we
 
 //, the An ''<■ /.'■ / 'ons. 
 
 ■ cheered by the Bight of a large herd of reindeer, 
 and Hepburn went in pursuit of them ; but his hand 
 being unsteady through weakness he missed. He was 
 
 shausted by this fruitless attempt, that we wi 
 obliged to encamp upon the Bpotj, although it wai 
 very unfavorable one. 
 
 • day we had fine and clear, but cold weather. 
 We set out early, and, in crossing a hill, found a con- 
 siderable quantity of tripe de roche. About noon 
 fell upon Little Marten Lake, having walked about 
 two miles. The Bight of a place that we knew in- 
 spired us with fresh vigor, and there being compara- 
 tively little Bnow on tin- ice, we advanced at a i 
 to which we had lately been unaccustomed. In the 
 afternoon we cr issed a recent track of a wolverene, 
 which, from a parallel maik in the Bnow, appeared to 
 have been dragging something. Hepburn traced it, 
 and npon the borders of the. lake found the Bpine of a 
 .leer, that it had dropped. It was clean picked, and 
 at least one season old \ hut we extracted the spinal 
 marrow from it, which, even in its frozen state, wai 
 acrid as to excoriate the lips. We encamped within 
 sight of the Dog-rib Rock, and from the coldness 
 the night and the want of fuel, rested very ill. 
 
 On the 28th w ' day-break, but from the 
 
 want of the small fire, that we usually made in the 
 mornings to warm our fingers, a very long time
 
 340 ; Thirty Years 
 
 spent in making up our bundles. This task fell to 
 Hepburn's share, as I suffered so much from the cold 
 as to be unable to take my hands out of my mittens. 
 We kept a straight course for the Dog-rib Rock, 
 but owing to the depth of the snow in the valleys we 
 had to cross, did not reach it until late in the after- 
 noon. We would have encamped, but did not like to 
 pass a second night without fire ; and though scarcely 
 able to drag our limbs after us, we pushed on \o a 
 clump of pines, about a mile to the southward of the 
 rock, and arrived at them in*the dusk of the evening. 
 During the last few hundred yards of our march, our 
 track lay over some large stones, amongst which I fell 
 down upwards of twenty times, and became at length 
 so exhausted that I was unable to stand. It' Hep- 
 burn had not exerted himself far beyond his strength, 
 and speedily made the encampment ami kindled a 
 fire, I must have perished on the spot. This night 
 we had plenty of dry wood. 
 
 On the 29th we had clear and fine weather. We 
 3et out at sunrise, and hurried on in our anxiety to 
 reach the house, but our progress was much impeded 
 by the great depth of the snow in the valleys. Al- 
 though every spot of ground over which we traveled 
 to-day, had been repeatedly trodden by us, yel we got 
 bewildered in a small lake. We took il for Marten 
 Lake, which was three times its size, and fancied that
 
 In tltr Arctic Regions. 341 
 
 we saw the rapid and the grounds aboul the fort, al- 
 though they were still far distant. Our disappoint- 
 ment when this illusion was dispelled, by our reach- 
 ing the end of the lake, so operated on our I 
 minds as to exhaust our strength, and we d< 
 upon encamping; but upon ascending a small emi- 
 to l iok for a clump of wood, we caught a 
 glimpse of the a well known rock upon the 
 
 Bummit of ;i hill opposite to the Fort, and determined 
 upon proceeding, In the evening we saw several 
 , bul Eepburn, who used to bo 
 marksman, was now unable to hold 
 
 in straight, and although he gol near them, all 
 his efforts proved fruitless. In passing through a 
 small clump of pines we saw a flock of partridges, 
 and he su I in killing one after firing several 
 
 shots. We came in Bight of the fort at dusk, and it, 
 is impossible to describe cur sensations, when on at- 
 taining the eminence that overlooks it, we beheld the 
 Bmoke issuing from oneof the From not 
 
 having met with a: ps in tb is we drew 
 
 nigh our once cheerful residence, wehad been agitated 
 by many melancholy 1 --. Upon entering the 
 
 now d . we had l 
 
 bracing Captain Franklin, bul □ i 
 an idea of the filth and wretcheda il mel our 
 
 m looking around. Our own misery had
 
 342 Thirty Years 
 
 upon us by degrees, and we were accustomed to the 
 contemplation of each other's emaciated figures, but 
 the ghastly countenances, dilated eye-balls, and 
 sepulchral voices of Mr. Franklin and those with him, 
 were more than we could at first bear. 
 
 Conclusion of Dr. Richardson' s Narrative. 
 
 The morning of the 31st was very cold, the wind 
 being strong from the north. Hepburn went again in 
 quest of deer, and the Doctor endeavored to kill some 
 partridges : both were unsuccessful. A large herd of 
 deer passed close to the house, the Doctor lired once 
 at them, but was unable to pursue them. Adam was 
 easier this day, and lefthis bed. Peltier and Samandre 
 were much weaker, and could not assist in the 
 labors of the day. Both complained of Boreness in 
 the throat, and Samandre suffered much from cramps 
 in his fingers. The Doctor and Hepburn began this 
 day to cut the wood, and also brought it to the house. 
 Being too weak to aid in these Laborious tasks,! was 
 employed in searching for bones, and cooking ; and at- 
 tending to our more weakly companions.
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 
 
 In the evening, Peltier, complaining much of i 
 requested of me a portion of ;i blanket to repair bis 
 shirl and drawers. The mending of tl 
 cupied him and Samandre until past one A.M., 
 their spirits were bo much revived by the emplovm 
 that they convei a cheerfully the whole time. 
 
 Adam sat up with them. The Doctor, Hepburn, and 
 myself, went to bed. We were afterwards agreeably 
 surprised to Bee Peltier and Samandre* carry three 
 tour logs of wood across the room to replenish the I 
 which induced us to hope they still possessed more 
 strength than we had supposed. 
 
 'ember 1. — This day was line and mild. Hep- 
 burn went hunting, but was as usual unsuccessful As 
 his Btrength was rapidly declining, we advised him to 
 desist from tin- pursuit of deer; and only to go out 
 for n short time and endeavor to kill a few partrid 
 tor Peltier and Samandre\ Tip- lector obtained a 
 little tript d( roche, hut- Peltier could not eat any of 
 it, and Samandr6 only a few spoonfuls, owing to 
 of their throats. In the afternoon p 
 
 was bo much exhausted, that he sal up with diffica 
 ami looked piteously ; at length h" Blided from Ms 
 1 upon his bed, as we sup; sleep, and in 
 
 this eoi:. ate he remained upwards of two hours, 
 
 without our apprehending any danger. We 
 then alarmed by hearing a rattling in his throat, and
 
 344 Thirty Years 
 
 on the Doctor's examining him he was found to he 
 speechless. He died in the course of the night. Sa- 
 mandrc sat up the greater part of the day, and even 
 assisted in pounding some bones ; but on witnessing 
 the melancholy state of Peltier, he became very low, 
 and began to complain of cold and stiffness of the 
 joints. Being unable to keep up a sufficient fire to 
 warm him, we laid him down and covered him with 
 several blankets. He did not, however, appear to get 
 better, and I deeply lament to add, he also died before 
 daylight. We removed the bodies of the deceased 
 into the opposite part of the house, but our united 
 strength was inadequate to the task of interring them, 
 or even carrying them down to the river. 
 
 It may be worthy of remark that poor Peltier, from 
 the time of Benoit's departure, had fixed on the first 
 of November as the time when he should (.rase to ex- 
 pect any relief from the Indians, and had repeatedly 
 said that if they did not arrive by that day, he should 
 not survive. 
 
 Peltier had endeared himself to each of us by hii 
 cheerfulness, his unerasing activity, and affectionate 
 care and attentions, ever since our arrival at this 
 place. [!c had cursed Adam with the tender es I solic- 
 iting the wli ile time. Poor Samandre was willing to 
 have taken his share in the labors of the party, had 
 he not. been wholly incapacitated by his weakness and
 
 In the Arctic /<• gions. '■'■ US 
 
 low spirits. The Bevere shock occasioned by the Bud- 
 den dissolution of our two companions rendered us 
 rory melancholy. Adam became Low and despoi 
 a change which we lamented the more, as we had per- 
 ceived he had been gaining strength and Bpirits for the 
 two preceding days. I was particularly distressed by 
 the thought that the labor of collecting wood must 
 now devolve upon Dr. Richardson and Hepburn, and 
 that my debility would disable me from affording them 
 any material assistance ; indeed both of them most 
 kindly urged me not to make the attempt They 
 ipied the whole of the next day in tearing 
 down the loga of which the store-house was built, 
 hut the mud plastered between them was bo hard 
 i that the labor of separation exceeded their 
 jth, and they were completely exhausted by 
 bringing in wood sufficient for less than twelve hours' 
 consumption. 
 
 1 found it necessary in their absence, to remain 
 constantly near Adam, and to converse with him, in 
 order to prevent his reflecting on <>ur condition, and 
 to keep up Ids Bpirits as tar as possible. I also lay 
 by his Bide at night. 
 
 < >n the 3d the weather was very cold, though the 
 atmosphere was cloudy. This morning Hepburn was 
 affected with swelling in Ids limbs, Ids strength, as 
 well as that of the Doctor, was rapidly declining;
 
 346 Thirty Years 
 
 they continued, however, to be full of hope. Their 
 utmost exertions could only supply wood to renew the 
 fire thrice, and on making it up the last time we went 
 to bed. Adam was rather in better spirits, but he 
 could not bear to be left alone. Our stock of bones 
 was exhausted by a small quantity of soup we made 
 this evening. The toil of separating the hair from 
 the skins, which in fact were our chief support, had 
 now become so wearisome as to prevent us from eat- 
 ing as much as we should otherwise have done. 
 
 November 4. — Calm and comparatively mild wea- 
 ther. The Doctor and Hepburn, exclusive of their 
 usual occupation, gathered some tripe de rocJie. I 
 went a few yards from the house in search of bones, 
 and returned quite fatigued, having found but three. 
 The Doctor again made incisions in Adam's legs, 
 which discharged a considerable quantity of water, and 
 gave him great relief. We read prayers and a portion 
 of the New Testament in the morning and evening, as 
 had been our practice since Dr. Richardson's arrival ; 
 and I may remark that the performance of these duties 
 always afforded us the greatest consolation, serving to 
 reanimate our hope in the mercy of the Omnipotent, 
 who alone could save and deliver us. 
 
 On the 5th the breezes were light, with dark cloudy 
 weather, and some snow. The Doctor and Hepburn 
 were getting much weaker, and the limbs of the hi-
 
 In tin- An tic Regions. 34*3 
 
 ter were now greatly Bwelled. They came into the 
 house frequently in the course of the day to rest tin m- 
 s.-lvrs, and when once Beated, were unable to ri» ••■. 
 out the help of one another, or of a stick. Adam 
 for the most part in the same Low state as yesterdi v. 
 bul Bometimi b he surprised us by getting up and walk- 
 ing with an appearance of increased strength. His 
 looks were now wild and ghastly, ;m<l his conversati 
 was often incoherent. 
 
 next day was fide, but very cold. The Bwellings 
 in Adam's limbs having subsided, he was free from 
 pain, and arose this morning in much better Bpii 
 and Bpoke of cleaning his gun ready for Bhooting par- 
 tridges, or any animals that might appear near tin* 
 house, but his tone entirely changed b fore the day 
 was half over; he became again dejected, and could 
 scarcely 1"' prevailed upon to eat. The Doctor and 
 Hepburn were almost exhausted. The cutting of 
 log of wood occupied the latter hall' an hour ; and the 
 other took as much time to drag it into the house, 
 though the distance did nol exceed thirty yards. 1 
 endeavored to help the Doctor, but d ince was 
 
 very trifling. X*et it was evident that, in a day or 
 two, it' their Btrength Bhould continue to decline at 
 the sain- rate, I Bhould 1"- ti. f the party. 
 
 I may here remark, tint owing to our !->> "t 6 
 tin- hardness <•!' the tl \ from which we wore only
 
 348 Thirty Years 
 
 protected by a blanket, produced soreness over the 
 body, and especially those parts on which the weight 
 rested in lying, yet to turn ourselves for relief was a 
 matter of toil and difficulty. However, during this 
 • period, and indeed all along after the acute pains of 
 hunger, which lasted but three or four days, had sub- 
 sided, w r e generally enjoyed the comfort of a few hours' 
 sleep. The dreams which for the most part, but not 
 always accompanied it, were usually (though not in- 
 variably,) of a pleasant character, being very often 
 about the enjoyments of feasting. In the day-time 
 we fell into the practice of conversing on common and 
 light subjects, although we sometimes discussed with 
 seriousness and earnestness topics connected with reli- 
 gion. We generally avoided speaking directly of our 
 present sufferings, or even of the prospeot of relief. I 
 observed, that in proportion as our strength decayed, 
 our minds exhibited symptoms of weakness, evinced by 
 a kind of unreasonable pettishness with each other. 
 Each of us thought the other weaker in intellect than 
 himself, and more in need of advice and assistance. 
 So trilling a circumstance as a change of place re- 
 commended by one as being warmer and more comfort- 
 able, and refused by the other from a dread of motion, 
 frequently called forth fretful expressions which were 
 no sooner uttered than atoned for, to be repeated per- 
 haps in the COUrseofa few minutes. The Name thing
 
 In tin Arcti w. 
 
 urred v. I 
 in carrying wood to the fire ; non 
 to i although the I dispro- 
 
 i our strength. On oneof these occasions 
 Hepburn was so convinced of this waywardness that 
 he exclaimed, " Dear me, it* we are Bpared to return 
 to England, I wonder it' we Bhall recover our Under- 
 stand LI 
 
 November 7. — Adam had passed a restless night, 
 b< ing disquieted by gloomy apprehensions of approi 
 ing death, which we tried in vain to dispel 1I«' was 
 so low in the morning as to 1"' Bcarcely able to speak. 
 I remained in bed by his side to cheer him as much 
 The Doctorand Hepburn went to cut wi 
 They had hardly begun their labor, when they w 
 amazed at hearing the report ofamusket. They could 
 scarcely believe that there was really any one □ 
 until th a shout, and immediately espied three 
 
 Indi ■ to the house. Adam and I hoard the lat- 
 
 ter noise, and I was fearful that a part of the house had 
 fallen upon one of my companions, a disaster which 
 had in fact been thought not unlikely. My alarm 
 was only momentary, Dr. Ri hard-. mi came in to com- 
 municate the joyful intelligence that relief had arrived. 
 He and myself immediately addressed thanksgiving 
 to the throne of mercy for this delii 
 Adam was in bo low a state that he could scarcely
 
 350 Thirty Years 
 
 comprehend the information. When the Indians en- 
 tered, he attempted to rise but sank down again. But 
 for this seasonable interposition of Providence, his ex- 
 istence must have terminated in a few hours, and that 
 of the rest probably in not many days. 
 
 The Indians had left Akaitcho's encampment on the 
 5th November, having been sent by Mr. Back with all 
 possible expedition, after he had arrived at their tents. 
 They brought but a small supply of provisions, that 
 they might travel quickly. It consisted of dried deer's 
 meat, some fat, and a few tongues. Dr. Kichardson, 
 Hepburn, and I, eagerly devoured the food, which 
 they imprudently presented to us, in too great abun- 
 dance, and in consequence we suffered dreadfully from 
 indigestion, and had no rest the whole night. Adam 
 being unable to feed himself, was more judiciously 
 treated by them, and suffered less ; his spirits reviv- 
 ed hourly. The circumstance of our eating more food 
 than was proper in our present condition, was another 
 striking proof of the debility of our minds. We were 
 perfectly aware of the danger, and Dr. Richardson re- 
 peatedly cautioned us to be moderate ; but he was 
 himself unable to practise the caution lie bo judicious- 
 ly recommend* d. 
 
 Boudel-kell, the youngest of the Indians, after rest- 
 in" about an hour, returned to Akaitcho with the in- 
 telligence of our situation, and he conveyed a QOtC
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 35 1 
 
 from me to Bir. Back, requesting another supply of 
 meat aa soon as possible. The two others, '• Crooked- 
 I >t and the Bat," remained to take care of as, until 
 we should be able to move forward. 
 
 The note I received by the [ndians from Mr. I 
 communicated a tale of distress with regard to him- 
 
 : ami his party, as painful as that which we had 
 
 Buffered ; as will hi' Been hereafter, by his own narra- 
 tive. 
 
 November 8. — Tin- [ndians this morning requi 
 us to remove to an encampment mi tin- hanks of the 
 river, as they were unwilling to remain in the house 
 in which the bodies of our deceased companions were 
 lying exposed t" view. We agreed to remove hut tin' 
 day pn.vrd too Btormy, and Dr. Richardson and Hep- 
 burn having dragged the In. dies to a short distance, and 
 Covered them with snow, the objections of the Indians 
 
 to remain in the house were removed, and they began 
 to clear our room of the accumulation ^t' dirt and 
 fragments of pounded bones. The improved state of our 
 apartment, and the large and cheerful tires they kept 
 np, produced in us a Bensation of comforl to which we 
 had long been Btrangere. In the evening they brought 
 
 in a pile . . t" dried wood, which was lying on the river 
 side, and on which we had often ca8l a wishful I 
 
 being unable to drag it np the bank The [ndians 
 
 about every thing with an activity that amazed us.
 
 352 Thirty Years 
 
 Indeed, contrasted with our emaciated figures and ex- 
 treme debility, their frames appeared to us gigantic, and 
 their strength supernatural. These kind creatures next 
 turned their attention to our personal appearance, and 
 prevailed upon us to shave and wash ourselves. The 
 beards of the Doctor and Hepburn had been untouch- 
 ed since they left the sea coast, and were become of a 
 hideous length, and peculiarly offensive to the In- 
 dians." The Doctor and I suffered extremely from 
 distention, and therefore ate sparingly. Hepburn was 
 getting better, and Adam recovered his strength with 
 amazing rapidity. 
 
 November 9. — This morning was pleasantly fine. 
 Crooked-Foot caught four large trout in Winter Lake, 
 which were very much prized, especially by the Doctor 
 and myself, who had taken a dislike to meat, in con- 
 Bequence of our sufferings from repletion, which ren- 
 dered us almost incapable of moving. Adam and 
 Eepburn in a great measure escaped this. Though 
 the oight was stormy, and our apartment freely ad- 
 mitted the wind, we felt no inconvenience, the Indians 
 weresovery careful in covering us up, and Inkeepinga 
 
 * The (ii-i alvine (Uncharges after we received food, were, as Hearne 
 remarks on a similar occasion, attended with excessive pain. Previous 
 i" the arrival <>i the [ndians, the urinarj secretion was extremelj abun- 
 dant and we were obliged to rise from bed in consequence upwards of 
 ton times In a night. This was an extreme annoyance in our reduced 
 Btate, it may perhaps, be attributed to the quantity of the country 
 
 tea that WO drank.
 
 /// the Arctic Regions. 
 
 1 fire : and our plentiful cheer gave Buch p 
 
 : the cold, thai we could scarcely believe other- 
 wise than that the season had become milder. 
 
 Od the 13th, the weather was stormy, with constant 
 snow. The Indians became desponding al the non- 
 arrival of the Bupply, and would neither go to hunt 
 nor fish. They frequently expressed their fears of 
 Borne misfortune having befall a Boudel-kellj ami, in 
 the evening, went off suddenly, without apprizing us 
 nt' their intention; having first given to each of i 
 handful of pounded meat, which they had reserved. 
 Their departure, at first, gave rise to a suspicion of 
 their having deserted us, not meaning to return, espe- 
 cially as the explanations of Adam, who appeared to 
 be in their secret, were very unsatisfactory. At Length, 
 by interrogations, we got from him the informati 
 that they designed to march night and day, until they 
 Bhould reach Akaitcho's encampment, whence they 
 would Bend us aid. As we had combated their fears 
 about Boudel-kell, they, perhaps, apprehended that 
 we Bhould oppose their determination, and then ; 
 concealed it. We were now 1 fl asecond time with- 
 out food, ami with appetites recovered, and stroc 
 excited by recenl indulgeo 
 
 On the following day the Doctor and Eepburi 
 sumed their former occupation of collecting wood, and 
 I was able t i assist a little in bringing it into the
 
 354 Thirty Years 
 
 house. Adam, whose expectation of the arrival of the 
 Indians had been raised by the fineness of the weather, 
 became, towards night, very desponding, and refused 
 to eat the singed skin. The night was stormy, and 
 there was a heavy fall of snow. The next day he be- 
 came still more dejected. About eleven Hepburn, 
 who had gone out for wood, came in with the intelli- 
 gence that a party appeared upon the river. The 
 room was instantly swept, and, in compliance with 
 the prejudices of the Indians, every scrap of skin was 
 carefully removed out of sight ; for these simple peo- 
 ple imagine, that burning deer-skin renders them un- 
 successful in hunting. The party proved to be 
 Crooked-Foot, Thooee-yorre, and the Fop, with the 
 wives of the two latter dragging provisions. They 
 were accompanied by Benoit, one of our own men. 
 
 We were rejoiced to learn, by a note from Mr. Back, 
 dated November 11, that he and his companions had 
 BO recruited their strength that they were preparing to 
 proceed to Fort Providence. Adam recovered his spirits 
 on the arrival of the Indians, and even walked about 
 the room with an appearance of strength and activity 
 that surprised us all. As it was of consequence to get 
 amongst the reindeer before our presenl supply should 
 
 fail, we made preparations for (putting Fort Knter- 
 
 prize the nexl day ; and, accordingly, al an early hour 
 
 on the Hilh, having united in thanksgiving and prayer,
 
 In I . I .', ms. 
 
 the whole party left the house after breakfast, I 
 feeliogs on quitting the Fort, where we had formerly 
 enjoyed mach comfort, if not happiness, and, latterly. 
 experienced a degree of mi ircely to be paralelled, 
 
 may be more easily conceived than described. ] 
 [ndiana treated us with the utmost tenderm 
 
 their snow-shoes and walked without themselves, 
 k> eping by our sides, that they might lift as when we 
 fell We descended Winter Biver, and, about noon, 
 crossed the head of Bound-Bock Lake, distant about 
 three miles from the house, where we were obliged t«> 
 halt, as Dr. Bichardson was unable to proceed. The 
 Bwellings in his limbs rendered him by much the weak- 
 
 of the party. The Indians prepared our encamp- 
 ment, cooked t'"i- as, and ted us as it' we had been 
 children ; evincing humanity that would have done 
 honor to the most civilized people. The night was 
 mild, and fatigue made us sleep soundly. 
 
 From this period to tin' 26th *>i' November we 
 
 gradually continued to improve, under the kind: 
 and attention of our Indians. On this day we arrived 
 
 in safety at the abode of our chief and companion, 
 Akaitcho. We were rec< ived by the party assembled 
 
 in the leader's tent, with looks of Compassion, and 
 
 profound silence, which lasted about a quarter of an 
 
 hour, and by whieh they meant to . \j ress their condo- 
 lence for our sufferings. The conversation did not be-
 
 356 Thirty Years 
 
 gin until we had tasted food. The Chief, Akaitcho, 
 shewed us the most friendly hospitality, and all sorts 
 of personal attention, even to cooking for us with his 
 own hands, an office which he never performs for him- 
 self. Anncethaiyazzeh and Humpy, the Chiefs two 
 brothers, and several of our hunters, with their fami- 
 lies, "were encamped here, together with a number of 
 old men and women. In the course of the day we 
 were visited by every person of the band, not merely 
 from curiosity, I conceive, but rather from a desire to 
 evince their tender sympathy in our late distress. "We 
 learned that Mr. Back, with St. Germain and Belan- 
 ger, had gone to Fort Providence ; and that, previous 
 to his departure, he had left a letter in a cache of 
 pounded meat, which he had missed two days ago. 
 As we supposed that this letter might acquaint us 
 with his intentions more fully than we could gather 
 from the Indians, through our imperfect knowledge 
 of their language, Augustus, the Esquimaux, whom 
 we found here in perfect health, and an Indian lad, 
 uric dispatched to bring it. 
 
 Wo found several of the Indian families in great 
 affliction, for the loss of three of their relatives, who 
 had been drowned in the August preceding, by the 
 upsetting of a canoe near to Fort Enter prize. They 
 
 bewailed the melancholy accident every morning and 
 evening, by repeating the names of the persons in a
 
 In the Arctic ff< 
 
 Lond singing tone, which was frequently interru] 
 by bureta of tears. One woman w I cted by the 
 
 of her only sun, that Bhe seemed deprived of rea- 
 son, and wandered about the tents the whole day, cry- 
 ing ami Binging out his nai 
 
 < )n the Let of Decemuerwe removed with the [n 
 dians to the southward. 
 
 On the 4th, we again ifter the Indians about 
 
 noon, and booh overtook them, as they had halted to 
 drag from the water, and cut up and Bhare, :i mo 
 deer, that had been drowned in a rapid part of the 
 river, partially covered with ice. These operations de- 
 tained us a long time, which was the nine disagreea- 
 ble, as the weather was extremely unpleasant from 
 cold low fogs. We were all much fatigued at the 
 hour of encampment, which was alter dark, though 
 the day's journey did qoI i four miles. At every 
 
 halt the elderly men of the tribe used to make holes in 
 the ice and put in their lines. One of them shared 
 the produce of his fishery with us this evening. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 6th, Belanger, and another 
 Canadian, arrived from I'll Providence, Bent by Mr. 
 W'.eks, with two trains of dogs, some spirits and to- 
 bacco for the Indians, a change of dress for oureel 1 
 and a little tea ami BUgar. They also brought let! 
 lor us from England, and from Mr. Back and Mr. 
 W'ent/.ei. By the former we received the gratifying
 
 358 Thirty Tears 
 
 intelligence of the successful termination of Captain 
 Parry's voyage ; and were informed of the promotion 
 of myself and Mr. Back, and of poor Hood, our grief 
 for whose loss was renewed by this intelligence. The 
 gratification which it would otherwise have afforded, 
 was materially damped by our sincere regret that he 
 had not lived to receive this just reward of his merit 
 and services. The letter from Mr. Back stated, that 
 the rival Companies in the fur trade had united ; but 
 that, owing to some cause which had not been ex- 
 plained to him, the goods intended as rewards to 
 Akaitcho and his band, which we had demanded in the 
 spring from the North-West Company, were not sent. 
 There were, however, some stores lying for us at Moose- 
 deer Island, which had been ordered for the equipment 
 of our voyagers ; and Mr. Back had gone across to that 
 establishment, to make a selection of the articles we 
 Could spare fur a temporary present to the Indians. 
 The disappointment at the non-arrival of the goods 
 was seriously it-It by us, as we had looked thru ard with 
 pleasure to the. time when we should be enabled to 
 recompense bur kind Indian friends, for their tender 
 
 sympathy in our dist resses, and the assistance they 
 
 had bo cheerfully and promptly rendered. I now re- 
 gretted to find, that Mr. Wentzel and his party, in 
 their return from the sea, had Buffered severely on 
 
 their march along the Copper-MlUC River, having on
 
 /// the A\ • ' //• i ' ms. 
 
 one occasion, as he mentioned, had do food l>ut (ripe 
 
 oche for eleven days. 
 All the Indians flocked to our encampment to learn 
 the oews, and to receive the articles broughl for them. 
 I l.i\ ing go! .-■ ime Bpirite and tobacco, they withdrew to 
 the tenl of the Chief, and passed the greater pari of 
 the nigh! in singing. We had oow the indescribable 
 tificution of changing our linen, which we had worn 
 departure from the sea-coast. 
 ,,,/„ r 8, — Altera long conference with Akail 
 we took leave of him and his kind companions, and 
 
 ut with two sledges, heavily laden with provision 
 and beddiDg, drawn by the dogs, and conducted by 
 Belanger and the Canadian senl by Mr. Weeks. Bep- 
 burn and Augustus jointly dragged a Bmaller Bledge, 
 ladm principally with their own bedding. Adam and 
 Benoil were lefl to follow with the Indian-. We en- 
 camped mi the Grassy-Lake Portage, having walked 
 about nine miles, principally on the Yellow-Krj 
 River. It was open at the rapids, and in these pi . 
 we had to ascend its banks, and walk through the 
 woods for Borne distance, which was very fatiguing, 
 
 cially to Dr. Richardson, wh »se feel were Beveroly 
 galled in t in bis snow- 
 
 • 
 
 On the Nth, howeveY, we arrived at the i' 
 was still under the charge of Mr. Week-. II. ■ wol-
 
 360 Thirty Years 
 
 corned us in the most kind manner, immediately gave 
 us changes of dress, and did every thing in his power 
 to make us comfortable. 
 
 Our sensations, on heing once more in a comfortable 
 dwelling, after the series of hardships and miseries we 
 had experienced, will be much better imagined than 
 any language of mine can describe them. Our first 
 act was again to return our grateful praises to the 
 Almighty for the manifold instances of his mercy to- 
 wards us. Having found here some articles, which 
 Mr. Back had sent across from Moose-deer Island, I 
 determined on awaiting the arrival of Akaitcho and 
 his party, in order to present these to them, and to 
 assure them of the promised reward, as soon as it 
 could possibly be procured. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 14th, Akaitcho, with bis 
 whole band, came to the Fort. He smoked bis cus- 
 tomary pipe, and made an address to Mr. Weeks in 
 the hall, previous to his coming into the room in which 
 Dr. Richardson and 1 were. We discovered at the 
 commencement of bis speech to us, thai he had been 
 informed that our expected supplies had not come. 
 He spoke of this circumstance as a disappointment, 
 indeed, sufficiently severe to himself, to whom bis 
 band looked up for the protection of their inter 
 l)ii t without attaching any blame to us. "The world 
 
 eft badly," he said, ''all are poo'r, you are poor, the
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 361 
 
 traders appear to be poor, 1 and my party arc poor 
 likewise ; and since the goods have aoi come in, we 
 cannot have them I do not regret having Bnpplied 
 yon with provisions, for a Oopper [ndian can never 
 permit white men to suffer from want of food on his 
 lands, without flying to their aid. I trust, however, 
 that we Bhall, as ive what is due next 
 
 autumn ; and at all events," he added, in a tune of 
 
 d humor, " i first time that the white peo- 
 
 ple have Peru indebted to the Copper Indians." We 
 
 ired him the supplies should certainly be seir 
 him by the autumn, if not before. Be then cheerfully 
 I the small present we made to himself \ and, 
 although we could give a few things only to those 
 who had been must active in our service, the others 
 who, perhaps, thought then: [ually deserving, 
 
 did not murmur at being left out in the distribution. 
 Akaitcho afterwards expn Bsed a f trong desire, thai 
 should i the character of his nation in a favor- 
 
 able light to our countrymen. "I know," he said. 
 "you write down every occurrence in your books; but 
 probably you, have only we 
 
 have said and done, and have omitted to mention I 
 
 !." In the if the desultory conversation 
 
 which ensued, he said, that he had been always I 
 
 by us. to consider the traders in the same Ughl 
 
 ourselves ; and that for. his part, he looked upon both 
 
 lb
 
 362 Thirty Years 
 
 as equally respectable. This assurance, made in the 
 presence of Mr. Weeks, was particularly gratifying to 
 us, as it completely disproved the defence that had 
 been set up, respecting the injurious reports that had 
 been circulated against us, amongst the Indians in 
 the spring ; namely, that they were in retaliation for 
 our endeavors to lower the traders in the eyes of the 
 Indians. I take this opportunity of stating my 
 opinion, that Mr. Weeks, in spreading these reports, 
 was actuated by a mistaken idea that he was serving 
 the interest of his employers. On the present occasion, 
 we felt indebted to him for the sympathy he displayed 
 for our distresses, and the kindness with which he ad- 
 ministered to our personal wants. After this con- 
 ■. such Indians as were indebted to the Com- 
 
 m re paid for the provision they had given us-, 
 by deducting a corresponding ship, from their debts ; 
 in the same way we gave a reward of sixteen skins of 
 I i to each of the persons who had come to our re- 
 . Lterprize. As the debts of Akaitcho 
 and liis hunters had been effaced at the time of his 
 
 jement with us, we placed a Bum, equal to the 
 am unit .if provision they had recently supplied, 1" 
 their credit on the Company's books. These things 
 h the moderation of the Indians, ml just - 
 ed with an unexpected futility, we gave them a keg 
 of mi*ed liquors, (five parts water,) and distributed
 
 In the Artie Regions. 
 
 among them Beveral fathoms of tobacco, and tfa 
 tired to their tents to Bpend the night in merrim 
 
 m, our interpreter, being desirous of uniting 
 If with the Copper Indians, applied to me for 
 his discharge, which 1 granted, and gave him ;i hill 
 on the Hudson's Bay Company for the amount i 
 
 ] . 
 pared to 
 
 Mr. W' led Dr. Richardson and me with a 
 
 cariole each, and v mt at eleven AM., on the 
 
 15th, for r Island. ( fur pai 
 
 Belanger who h;ul ehai with the 
 
 bedding, and drawn by t\\ 
 
 Benoit, and Augustus. Previous to our departure, 
 we had anoth with Akaitcho, wl 
 
 well as the rest of his party, bade us farewell, with ;i 
 warmth of manner rare among the Indians. 
 
 I ' .ml the : 
 
 of the ice, impeded our progress very much, and i 
 ed us to encamp early. We had a good fire ma< 
 the drift wood, which lines the Bhores of this lake in 
 great quantities. The next day \\ Id. We 
 
 n the journey at nine A.M., and encamped at the 
 ■ ipe, having made another Bhort march, io 
 sequence of the i 
 
 On the L7th, we encamped on the most southerly 
 of the Reindeer Islands, This nighl was v( \\ stormy,
 
 364 Thirty Years 
 
 but the wind abating in the morning, we proceeded, 
 and by sunset reached the fishing huts of the Com- 
 pany at Stony Point. Here we found Mr. Andrews, 
 a clerk of the Hudson's Bay Company, who regaled 
 us with a supper of excellent white fish, for which this 
 part of Slave Lake is particularly celebrated. Two 
 men with sledges arrived soon afterwards, sent by Mr. 
 M'Vicar, who expected us about this time. We set 
 off in the morning* before day-break, with several 
 companions, and arrived at Moose-deer Island about 
 one P. M. Here we were received with the utmost 
 hospitality by Mr. M'Vicar, the chief trader of the 
 Hudson's Bay Company in this district, as well as by 
 his assistant, Mr. M'Auley. We had also the happi- 
 ness of joining our friend Mr. Back ; our feelings on 
 this occasion can be well imagined ; we were deeply 
 impressed with gratitude to him for his exertions in 
 sending the supply of food to Fort Enterprise, to 
 which, under Divine Providence, we felt the preserva- 
 tion of our lives to be owing. He gave us an affecting 
 detail of the proceedings of his party since our separa- 
 tion ; the substance of which I shall convey to the 
 reader, by the following extracts from his Journal.
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 3C5 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 Mb. BACK'S NARRATIVE. 
 
 1821. 
 
 lb6r4 Mb. Franklin having directed me to pro- 
 ceed with St. Germain, Belanger, and Beauparlant, to 
 Fort Enterprize, in the hope of obtaining relief for the 
 party, I toot Leave of my companions, and set out on 
 my journey, through B very swampy country, which, 
 with the cloudy state of the weather, and a keen 
 north-east wind, accompanied by frequent snow show- 
 ers, retarded us so much that we scarcely got more 
 than four miles, when we halted for the night, and 
 made a meal of tripe de roche and some old leather. 
 On the 5th, we Bet oul early, amidst extremely deep 
 snow, sinking frequently in it np to the thighs, a la- 
 bor in our enfeebled and almost worn-oul that 
 nothing bul the cheering ho] tching the house, 
 and affording relief to our friends, could have enal 
 us to Bupport. As we advanced, we tound to "iir mor- 
 tification that th , hitherto ouj sole de-
 
 366 Thirty Years 
 
 pendence, began to be scarce, so that we could only 
 collect sufficient to make half a kettleful, which, with 
 the addition of a partridge each, that St. Germain had 
 killed, made us a tolerable meal ; during this day I 
 felt very weak and sore in the joints, particularly be- 
 tween the shoulders. At night we encamped among a 
 small clump of willows. 
 
 On the 6th we set out at an early hour, pursuing 
 our route over a range of hills, at the foot of one of 
 which we saw several large pines, and a great quan- 
 tity of willows ; a sight that encouraged us to quicken 
 our pace, as we were now certain we could not be far 
 from the woods. Indeed we were making considerable 
 progress, when Belanger unfortunately broke through 
 the ice, and sunk up to the hips. The weather being 
 cold, he was in danger of freezing, but some brushwood 
 on the borders of the lake enabled us to make a fire 
 to dry him. At the same time we took the oppor- 
 tunity of refreshing ourselves with a kettje of swamp 
 tea. 
 
 My increasing debility had for some time obliged 
 to use a siiek for the purpose of extending my 
 
 arms ; the pain in my shoulders being so acute, thai I 
 
 could not bear them to remain in the usual position 
 for two minutes together. We halted at five among 
 tnal] brushwood, and made a sorry meal of an 
 (,1,1 pair of leather trowsers, and some Bwamp tea.
 
 In tfo Arctic Regions. 
 
 nigh! wae cold with a bard frost, and th< 
 
 ther, yel we could not by any 
 means keep ourselves warm, but remained treml 
 the whole time. The following morning v. ■ 
 several lak sionally seeing the recent tracl 
 
 and at noon we fell upon Marten Lake ; and it 
 happened to be the pot where we had been the 
 
 Last year with the canoes, and though I immedi 
 
 1 the place, the men would not believe it to 
 be tin' Bame ; at length, by pointing out Beveral m 
 and relating circumstances connected with them, they 
 
 red their memory, and a simultane< 
 sion i f " Mon Dieu, none sommes Bauve*s," brok 
 from the whole. Contrary to our expectations, the 
 lake was frozen sufficiently to bear us, bo that we \\ r 
 excused from making the lours of the different 
 This circumstance Beemed to add fresh vigor to us, 
 we walked as fast as the extreme smoothm 
 
 iuld permit, intending to reach the Slave I! k 
 that night ; but an unforeseen and almost fatal 
 denl prev< nted th ■ pros< cution of our plan : B 
 
 med the victim of misfortune) again bi 
 through the ice, in a deep part near the h I 
 rapid, but was timely Baved, by fastening our \\ 
 belts together, and pulling him out. By urging 
 forwards as quick as his icy garments would admit of, 
 to prevenl his freezing, we reached a few pin< -.
 
 368 Thirty Years 
 
 kindled a lire ; but it was late before he even felt warm, 
 though he was so near the flame as to burn his hair 
 twice ; and to add to our distress, three wolves crossed 
 the lake elose to us. 
 
 The night of the 7th was extremely stormy, and 
 about ten the following morning, on attempting to go 
 on, we found it totally impassible, being too feeble to 
 oppose the wind and drift, which frequently blew us 
 over, and on attempting to cross a small lake that lay 
 in our way, drove us faster backwards than under all 
 advantages we could get forwards ; therefore we en- 
 camped under the shelter of a small clump of pines, 
 secure from the south-west storm that was raging 
 around us. In the evening, from there being no tr 
 de rocJie, we were compelled to satisfy, or rather al- 
 lay, the cravings of hunger, by eating a gun cover and 
 a pair of old shoes ; at this time I had hardly strength 
 to get on my legs. 
 
 The wind did not in the least abate during the night, 
 but in the morning of the 9th it changed to north-east, 
 and became moderate. We took advantage of this 
 circumstance, and rising with great difficulty, set out, 
 though had it not been for the hope : ing the 
 
 house, I ;i!:i certain, from the e faintn 
 
 which all powered me, that 1 must have re- 
 
 in, lined where I was. We passed the Slave Rock, 
 and making frequent halts, arrived within a short dis-
 
 In the Arctic H> giohs. 
 
 tance of Fori Ent< rprize ; but as we perceived neither 
 
 any mark's of Indians, nor even of animals, the men 
 
 in absolutely to despair : on a nearer approach, 
 
 however, the tracks of large herds of deer, which had 
 
 only j. i-l a few hours," tended a little to revive their 
 
 spirits, and shortly after we crossed the minims three- 
 hold of the long-sought-for spot ; but what was our 
 surprise, what our sensations, at beholding everything 
 in the mosl desolate and neglected state ; the doors 
 
 and windows of that room in which we eXTtected to 
 find provision, had been thrown down, and carelessly 
 left so ; and the wild animals of the woods had resort- 
 ed there, as to a place of shelter and retreat. Mr. 
 Wentzel had taken away the trunks and papers, but 
 had left no note to guide US to the Indians. This was 
 
 tons the most grievous disappointment : without the 
 assistance of the Indians, bereft of every resource, we 
 fell ourselves reduced to the m<>-t miserable state, 
 which was rendered still worse, from the recollection 
 that our friends in the rear were as miserable as our- 
 selves. For the moment, however, hunger prevailed, 
 and each began to gnaw the scraps of putrid and fro- 
 zen meal thai were laying about, without waiting to 
 prepare them. A fire, however, was made, and the 
 neck and hones oi a deer, found Lying in the inc. 
 were boiled and devoured. 
 
 1 determined to remain a dav here to repOSC "iii'- 
 
 L6* "
 
 370 Thirty Years 
 
 selves, and then to go in search of the Indians, and in 
 the event of missing them, to proceed to the first trad- 
 ing establishment, which was distant about one hun- 
 dred and thirty miles, and from thence send succor to 
 my companions. This indeed I should have done im- 
 mediately, as the most certain manner of executing 
 my purpose, had there been any probability of the 
 river and lakes being frozen to the southward, or had 
 we possessed sufficient strength to have clambered over 
 the rocks and mountains which impeded the direct 
 way ; but as we were aware of our inability to do so, 
 I listened to St. Germain's proposal, which was, to 
 follow the deer into the woods, (so long as they did 
 not lead us out of our route to the Indians,) and if 
 possible to collect sufficient food to carry us to Fort 
 Providence. We now set about making mittens and 
 snow-shoes, whilst Belangei searched under the snow, 
 and collected a mass of old bones, which when burned 
 and used with a little salt, we found palatable enough, 
 and made a tolerable meal. At night St. Germain 
 returned, having seen plenty of tracks, but no ani- 
 mals ; the day was cloudy, with fresh breezes, and the 
 river was frozen at the borders. 
 
 On the 11th we prepared for our journey, having 
 Qrsl collected a few old Bkinsofdeer, to Berve us as 
 food, and writ leu a aote to be Left for our commander, 
 to apprize him of our intentions. We pursued the
 
 In the ■ 371 
 
 course of the river to the lower lake, when St. < ; n 
 fell in, which obliged us to encamp directly to prei 
 his being frozen ; indeed we were all glad of stoppii 
 for in our meagre and reduced Btate it was impose 
 to resisi the weather, which at any other time would 
 have bei n thought fine ; my toes were frozen, and al- 
 though wrapped in a blankel I could not keep my 
 hands warm. 
 
 The l_th wai Id with fresh bre 
 
 Our meal at night consisted of scraps of old deer si 
 and Bwamp tea, and the men complained greatly of 
 their increasing debility. The following morning I 
 Ben I Bt. Q rmain to hunt, intending I me dis- 
 
 tance down the lake, but the weather becoming ex- 
 lingly thick with Bnow storms, we were prevented 
 from moving. Be returned without success, not h 
 ing seen any animals. We had nothing to 
 
 In the morning of the 14th the part of the laki 
 fore as was quite frozen. There was so much urn 
 tainty in St. Germain's answers as to the chanci 
 an] Indians being in the direction we were th< i 
 (although he had previously said that the leader I 
 told him he should be there.) and he gave me bo mu 
 itisfaction in his hunting excursions, that I was 
 duced to send a note to the Commander, whom 1 Bup- 
 d to be by this ti I to inform 
 
 him oi' our situation ; not that I imagined for a mo-
 
 372 Thirty Years 
 
 ment he could better it, but that by all returning to 
 the Fort we might, perhaps, have better success in 
 hunting ; with this view I despatched Belanger, much 
 against his inclination, and told him to return as 
 quick as possible to a place about four miles fur- 
 ther on, where we intended to fish, and to await his 
 arrival. The men were so weak this day that I could 
 get neither of them to move from the encampment ; 
 and it was only necessity that compelled them to cut 
 wood for fuel, in performing which operation Beau- 
 parlant's face became so dreadfully swelled that he 
 could scarcely see ; I myself lost my temper on the 
 most trivial circumstances, and was become very peev- 
 ish ; the day was fine but o&ld, with a freezing north- 
 east wind. We had nothing to eat. 
 
 October 15. — The night was calm and clear, but 
 it was not before two in the afternoon that we set out ; 
 and the one was so weak, and the other so full of com- 
 plaints, that we did not get more than three-quarters 
 of a mile from our last encampment, before we were 
 obliged to put up ; but in tin's distance we were for- 
 tunate enough to kill a partridge, the bones of which 
 were eaten, and the remainder reserved for baits to 
 fish with. We were fortunate, however, in collecting 
 Sufficient tripe deroclie to make a meal ; and 1 now 
 anxiously awaited Belanger's return, to know wlmt 
 9 to take I was now so much reduced, that my
 
 /// the Arctic /<'■ g 
 
 shoulders were as if they would fall from my body, my 
 
 I unable to support me, and in thedis] 
 tion which I then found myself, had it not been for 
 the remembrance of my friends behind, who relied on 
 me for relief, as well as the persons of whom 1 had 
 charge, I certainly should have preferred remaining 
 where I was, to the miserable pain of attempting 
 move. 
 
 her 16. — We waited until two in the aft( . 
 for Belanger; but not seeing any thing of him on the 
 lake, we Bet out, purposing to encamp at the Narrows, 
 the place which was said to be so good for fishing, and 
 whi rding to St. Germain's account, the In- 
 
 dians never failed to catch plenty ; its distance .-it i 
 could not be more than two miles. We had not j ro- 
 ! d far before Beauparlant began to complain of in- 
 creasing weakness. This was so usual with us that 
 no particular notice was taken of it. fur in fact tic re 
 was little difference, all being alike feeble ; among 
 
 other things he said whilst we uriv testing, that he 
 
 Bhouldc ' beyond the next encampment, for his 
 
 agth had quite failed him. I endeavored t<> en- 
 courage him by explaining themercy of the Supi 
 Being, who ever beholds with an eye of pity those that 
 
 l his aid. This pa— d a8C0mm0n discourse, when 
 
 enquired whirc v. ; i put up : 81 . G rmain 
 
 pointed to a small clump of pines near 08, the only
 
 374 Thirty Years 
 
 place indeed that offered for fuel. " Well," replied 
 the poor man, " take your axe, Mr. Back, and I will 
 follow at my leisure, I shall join you by the time the 
 encampment is made." This is a usual practice of the 
 country, and St. Germain and myself went on towards 
 the spot ; it was five o'clock and not very cold, but 
 rather milder than we had experienced it for some 
 time, when, on leaving the ice, we saw a number of 
 crows perched upon the top of some high pines near 
 us. St. Germain immediately said that there must 
 be some dead animals thereabouts, and proceeded to 
 search, when we saw several heads of deer, half buried 
 in the snow and ice, without eyes or tongues ; the 
 previous severity of the weather only having obliged 
 the wolves and other animals to abandon them. An 
 expression of " Oh merciful God ! we are saved," 
 broke from us both ; and with feelings more easily im- 
 agined than described, we shook hands, not knowing 
 what to say for joy. It was twilight, and a io^ was 
 rapidly darkening the surface of the lake, when St. 
 Germain commenced making the encampment; the 
 task was too laborious lor me to render him any assist- 
 ance, and had we not thus providentially found pro- 
 vision, I feel convinced that the next twenty-four 
 hours would have terminated my existence. Bui tins 
 fortune, in some measure, renovated me lor the 
 moment, and putting out my whole strength, I contriv-
 
 In the An tic S 375 
 
 lied a few heads, and with in difficul- 
 
 ty carried them singly about thirty paces to the fire. 
 
 Darkness stole on us apace, and I became exti 
 |y anxious about Beauparlant ; Beveral guna were 
 fired, to each of which he answered. We then called 
 out, and again heard his responses, though faintly, 
 when I told St. Germain to go and look for him, as I 
 had 1 1 < • t strength myself, being quite exhausted. Be 
 said, that he had already placed a pine branch on the 
 ice, and be could then hardly find his way Lack, but 
 if he wenl now he Bhould certainly be lost. In this 
 situation 1 could only hope thai as Beauparlant had 
 my blanket, and every thing requ light a fire, 
 
 hemighl haw encamped at a little distance from as. 
 
 October 17. — The night was cold and clear, but we 
 could not Bleep at all, from tin- pains of having eaten. 
 We Buffered the most excruciating torments, though 
 I in particular did not eat a quarter of what would 
 have satisfied me ; it might have been from usin 
 quantity of raw or frozen sinews of the legs "f d 
 which neither "1" us could avoid doing, - I was 
 
 our hunger, In the morning, being much agitated 
 for til- Bafety of Beauparlant, I desi Germain 
 
 irch of him, and t<> return with him as 
 quick as possible, when I would have something ; 
 pared for them to eat. 
 
 It was, however, late when he arrived, with a small
 
 376 Thirty Years 
 
 bundle which Beauparlant was accustomed to carry, 
 and with tears in his eyes, told me that he found our 
 poor companion dead. Dead ! I could not believe 
 him. " It is so, Sir," said St. Germain, " after hal- 
 looing and calling his name to no purpose, I went to- 
 wards our last encampment, about three-quarters of a 
 mile, and found him stretched upon his back on a sand 
 bank frozen to death, his limbs all extended and 
 swelled enormously, and as hard as the ice that was 
 near him ; his bundle was behind him, as if it had 
 rolled away when he fell, and the blanket which he 
 wore around his neck and shoulders thrown on one 
 hide. Seeing that there was no longer life in him, I 
 threw your covering over him, and placed his snow- 
 shoes on the top of it." 
 
 I had not even thought of so serious an occurrence 
 in our little party, and for a short time was obliged to 
 vivo vent to my grief. Left with one person and both 
 of us weak, no appearance of Belanger, a likelihood 
 that great calamity had taken place amongst our 
 Other companions, and upwards of .seventeen days' 
 march from the Dearest Establishment, and myself 
 unable to cany a burden, all these things pressed 
 heavy on me ; and how to get to the Indians or to 
 th" Fort I did aot know ; but thai I might not depress 
 St. Germain's spirits, I suppressed the feelings which 
 these thoughts gave rise to, and made Borne arrange-
 
 In the Arctic /«'■ gions. i 7 
 
 mcnts for the journey to Fori Providence. We i 
 
 tinned very weak. 
 
 her 18. — While we were thia day occnpied in 
 scraping together the remains of" some Jeers' meat, we 
 observed Belanger coming round a point apparently 
 Icarcely moving. 1 went to meet him, and made im- 
 mediate inquiries about my friends. Five, with the 
 Captain, he said, were at the house, the rest were left 
 near the river, unable to proceed ; but In- was too 
 weak to relate the whole. Ee was conJuctcd to the 
 tmpment, and paid every attention to, and by de- 
 grees we lizard the remainder of his tragic tale, at 
 which the interpreter could not avoid orying. Ee 
 then gave n r from my friend the Commander, 
 
 which indeed was truly afflicting. The simple story 
 of Belanger 1 could hear, hut when I read it in another 
 language, mingled with the ]>ious resignation of a good 
 man, I could not sustain it any longer. The poor 
 man was much affected at the death of our lamented 
 companion, but his appetite prevailed over every other 
 feeling ; and had 1 permitted it, lie would hai 
 himself an inju after two hours' eating, prin- 
 
 cipally skin and sinews, he complained of hun. 
 The day was cloudy, with snow and fresh bre< 
 from the north-east I 
 
 The last evening, as well as this morning, the I 
 I mentioned my wishes to the men, that we should
 
 378 Thirty Years 
 
 proceed towards Reindeer Lake, but this proposal met 
 with a direct refusal. Belanger stated his inability to 
 move, and St. Germain used similar language ; add- 
 ing, for the first time, that he did not know the route, 
 and that it was of no use to go in the direction I men- 
 tioned, which was the one agreed upon between the 
 Commander and myself. I then insisted that we 
 should go by the known route, and join the Com- 
 mander, but they would not hear of it ; they would 
 remain where they were until they had regained their 
 strength ; they said I wanted to expose them again to 
 death {/aire perir). In vain did I use every argu- 
 ment to the contrary, for they were equally heedless to 
 all. Thus situated, I was compelled to remain, and 
 from this time to the 25th, wc employed ourselves in 
 Linking about for the remnants of the deer and pieces 
 of skin, which even the wolves had left ; and by 
 pounding the bones, we were enabled to make asortof 
 soup, which strengthened us greatly, though each still 
 complained of weakness. It was not without, the 
 greatest difficulty that I could restrain the men from 
 eating every scrap they found, though they were 
 aware of the necessity there was of being economical 
 
 in our present situation, and to save whatever they 
 
 could for our journey ; yet Ihey could not resisl the 
 temptation, and directly my back- was turned they 
 seldom failed to snatch at the nearest piece to
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 379 
 
 them, whether i ' raw it made do di 
 
 We had Bel fishing-lines, bu1 withoul any bu 
 
 and v ft( n saw large herds of deer en Bsing the lake 
 
 at full speed, and wolves pursuing them. 
 
 The night of the 25th was cold, with hard I 
 Early the next morning I sent the men to cover tlie 
 body ofourdeparted companion, Beauparlant, with the 
 trunks and branches of trees, which they did ; and 
 shortly after their return I opened his bundle, and 
 found ii contained two papers of vermilion, several 
 strings of I Is, flints, awls, fish- 
 
 hooks, rings, linen, and the glass of an artificial hori- 
 zon. My two men began to r< cover a little as w, 11 as 
 
 myself, though 1 was by far the weakest of the tin 
 
 the Boles of my feel were cracked all over, ami the 
 other parts were as hard as a horn, from constant 
 walking. I again urged the necessity of advancing 
 to join the Commander's party, but they said they 
 w.ae Qot yel sufficiently Btrong, 
 
 On the 27th we discovered the remains of a deer, 
 on which we feasted. The night was unusually cold, 
 and ice formed in a pint-pol within two feel of a fire. 
 The corru8cations of the Annua wi re beautifully bril- 
 liant ; they served to Bhew us eight wolves, which we 
 had Borne trouble to frighten away from our collection 
 of deers' bones ; and, with their howling, and the i 
 slant cracking of ti did DOt get much i
 
 380 Thirty Tears 
 
 Having collected with great care, and by self-denial, 
 two small packets of dried meat or sinews, sufficient 
 (for men who knew what it was to fast) to last for 
 eight days, at the rate of one indifferent meal per day, 
 we prepared to set out on the 30th. I calculated that 
 we should be about fourteen days in reaching Fort 
 Providence ; and, allowing that we neither killed deer 
 nor found Indians, we could but be unprovided with 
 food six days, and this we heeded not whilst the pros- 
 pect of obtaining full relief was before us. According- 
 ly we set out against a keen north-east wind, in order 
 to gain the known route to Fort Providence. We 
 saw a number of wolves and some crows on the middle 
 of the lake, and supposing such an assembly was not 
 met idly, we made for them, and came in for a share 
 of a deer, which they had killed a short time before, 
 and thus added a couple of meals to our stock. By 
 four P.M. we gained the head of the lake, or the di- 
 rect road to Fort Providence, and some dry wood being 
 ;ii hand, we encamped ; by accident it was the same 
 place where the Commander's party had slept on the 
 19th, tie- day en which I suppose they had left Fort 
 Enterprize ; but the encampmenl was so small, that 
 ired great mortality had taken place among them ; 
 and J am sorry to say the stubborn resolution of my 
 men, not to go to the house, prevented me from deter- 
 mining this most anxious point, so that I now almost
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 381 
 
 dreaded passing their encampments, lest I should 
 Borne of our unfortunate friends dead al • a 
 
 Our fire was hardly kindled, win n a fine herd of d 
 passed close to us. St. Germain pursued them a Bhort 
 distance, bul with his usual want of success, so that 
 we made a meal off the muscles and sinews we had 
 dried, though they were so tough that we could scarce- 
 ly cut them. My hands were benumbed throughout 
 the march, ami we were all still' ami fatigued. r l " 1 1 < • 
 marching of two days weaken d us all very much, and 
 the more bo on account of our exertion to follow the 
 tracks of our Commander's party ; but we l"-t them, 
 and concluded that they were not before as. Though 
 
 the weather was not cold, 1 was frozen in the i 
 
 and was so reduced and affected by these constant ca- 
 lamities, as well in mind as in body, that 1 found much 
 difficulty in proceeding even with the advantages 1 had 
 enjoyed. 
 
 I hi /• 3.- V> • day, though, in 
 
 tact, we were all better adapted to remain, from the 
 excessive pain which we Buffered in our joints, ami pro- 
 ceeded till one P.M.. without baiting, when Belanger. 
 who was before, Btopped, ami cried out, "F 
 of Indiana" It is ueedle88 to mention the joy that 
 brightened the countenances of each at this unlook 
 
 for Bighl : we knew relief mu hand, and con- 
 
 sidered our sufferings at an end. St Germain inspect-
 
 382 Thirty Years 
 
 ed the tracks, and said that three persons had passed 
 the day before ; and that he knew the remainder must 
 be advancing to the southward, as it was customary 
 with Indians, when they sent to the trading establish- 
 ment on the first ice. On this information we en- 
 camped, and, being too weak to walk myself, I sent 
 St. Germain to follow the tracks, with instructions to 
 the Chief of the Indians to provide immediate assist- 
 ance for such of our friends who might be at Fort En- 
 terprize, as well as for ourselves, and to lose no time 
 in returning to me. I was now so exhausted, that 
 had we not seen the tracks this day, I had determined 
 on remaining at the next encampment, until the men 
 could have sent aid from Fort Providence. We had 
 finished our small portion of sinews, and were prepar- 
 ing for rest, when an Indian boy made his appearance 
 with meat. St. Germain had arrived before sun 
 the tents of Akaitcho, whom he found at the spot 
 where lie had wintered last year ; but imagine mysur- 
 . when he gave me a note from the Commander, 
 and said, that Benoit and Augustus, two of the nun, 
 had just joined thorn. The note was BO confused, by 
 the penciJ marks being partlyrubbed out, thai I could 
 not decipher it (dearly ; but it informed me, thai he 
 had attempted to come with the two men. but finding 
 his strength inadequate to the task, he relinquished 
 ,. and returned to Fort Enterprize, to await.
 
 In tin Arctic Regions. 383 
 
 relief with tl T re was another note for the 
 
 gentleman in cha ing him 
 
 to Bend meat, blankets, Bhoes, and tobacco. Akail 
 wished me to join him on the ensuing day, at a place 
 which the boy knew, where they were going to fish ; 
 and I was the more anxious to do bo, on account of 
 my two companions : but particularly to hear a lull 
 tion of what had happened, and "I the Command- 
 er's true situation, which ! ted to be much 
 worse than he had described. 
 
 In the afternoon I joined the Indians, and repi 
 to Akaitcho wl Germain had told him j he 
 
 med much affected, and said, he would have £ 
 relief directly, though I had nol been there ; Lndi 
 his conduct was generous and humane. The next 
 morning, at an early hour, three Indians, with loaded 
 Bledges of d ins, Bhoes, and a blanket, set out 
 
 for Fori Enterprize ; cue of them was to return 
 directly with an answer from Captain Franklin, to 
 whom I wrote ; but in the^venl of his death, he was 
 t • > bring away all the papers he could find ; and he 
 promised to travel with such haste, astobeabl 
 return to us on the fourth day. I wa tnewhat 
 
 more easy, having done all in my power to Buccor my 
 unfortunate companions ; but was very anxious for 
 the return of the m The Indians brought 
 
 me ni. at in small quantities, though Buffici nt for our
 
 384 Thirty Years 
 
 daily consumption ; and, as we had a little ammuni- 
 tion, many were paid on the spot for what they gave. 
 On the 9 th I had the satisfaction of seeing the In- 
 dian arrive from Fort Enterprize. At first he said 
 they were all dead, but shortly after he gave me a 
 note, which was from the Commander, and then I 
 learned all the fatal particulars which had befallen 
 them. I now proposed that the Chief should imme- 
 diately send three sledges, loaded with meat, to Fort 
 Enterprize, to make a cache of provision at our present 
 encampment, and also, that he should here await the 
 arrival of the Commander. By noon, two large trains, 
 laden with meat, were sent off for Fort Enterprize. 
 The next day we proceeded on our journey, and ar- 
 rived at Fort Providence on the 21st of November. 
 
 Conclusion of Mr. Back's Narrative. 
 
 1 have little now to add to the melancholy detail 
 into which 1 felt it proper to enter ; but 1 cannot 
 omit to state, that the unremitting care and attentions 
 of «.ur kind friends, Mr. M'Vicar and Mr. M'Auley, 
 i ;ether with the improvemenl oi our diet, materially
 
 In the Arctic Regions'. 385 
 
 contributed to the restoration of our health ; so that, 
 by the end of February, the swellings of our lis 
 which had returned upon us, had entirely Bubsided, 
 and we were able to walk to any part of the island. 
 Our appetites gradually moderated, and we nearly 
 
 ned <>ur ordinary slat'' of body before the spring. 
 Hepburn alone suffered from a severe attack of rheu- 
 matism, which confined him to his bed for Borne weeks, 
 usnal Bymptoms of Bpring having appeared, on 
 the 25th of May we prepared to embark for Fort 
 Ohipewyan. Fortunately, on the following morni 
 a canoe arrived from that place with the whole of the 
 stuns which we required for the payment of Akaitcho 
 and the hunters. It was extremely gratifying to us 
 to be thus enabled, previous to our departure, to make 
 arrangements respecting the payment of our late In- 
 dian companions ; and the more bo, as we had recently 
 discovered thai Akaitcho, and the whole of the tribe, 
 
 in consequeni I the death of the Leader's mother, 
 
 and the wife of our old guide rleskarrah, had broken 
 and destroyed every useful articl ing to them, 
 
 and thai they were in the greatest distress. [1 ws 
 additional pleasure to find our stock of ammunition 
 was more than sufficient t i pay them what was due, 
 and that we could make a considerable present of this 
 
 most essentia] article to every individual that had 1 
 
 attached to the Expedition. 
 
 17
 
 386 Thirty Years 
 
 We quitted Moose-deer Island at five P.M., on the 
 26th, accompanied by Mr. M'Vicar and Mr. M'Auley, 
 and nearly all the voyagers at the establishment, hav- 
 ing resided there about five months, not a day of which 
 had passed without our having cause of gratitude, for 
 the kind and unvaried attentions of Mr. M'Vicar and 
 Mr. M'Auley. These gentlemen accompanied us as 
 far as Fort Chipewyan, where we arrived on the 2d of 
 June ; here we met Mr. Wentzel, and the four men, 
 who had been sent with him from the mouth of the 
 Copper- Mine Kiver; and I think it due to that gen- 
 tleman, to give his own explanation of the unfortunate 
 circumstances which prevented him from fulfilling ray 
 last instructions, respecting the provisions to have 
 been left for us at Fort Enterprize.* 
 
 * "After you sent me back from the mouth of the Copper-Mine 
 River, and I had overtaken the Leader, Guides, and Hunters on tho 
 fifth day leaving the sea-coast, as well as on our journey up the River, 
 they always expressed tho same desire of fulfilling their promi&os, 
 although somev ha! di isatisfied at being exposed in privation while on 
 ■ ; urn. from a scarcity of animals ; for as I have already .staled in 
 my firsl communication from Mouse Peer Maud, we hail been eleven 
 .-. ith i o other food bul tripe de roche. In the corns,. ,,i this, time 
 an Indian, with his wife and chilil, who wore traveling iii company 
 with us, were left in the rear and are ince supposed to have pei 
 
 h no into Hi ■• oce had i o received of them at Fori 
 
 dence in December last. On the 7th daj alter i hail joined the 
 
 • a > :u d journeying on t ther, ad the Indians except 
 
 Petit Pied and Bald-Head, lofl me to seek their families and
 
 /// the At( >ns. 387 
 
 In b subsequent conversation he Btated to me, that 
 . o [ndians, who were actually with him at Fort 
 Enterprise, whilst he remained there altering hi* 
 canoe, were prevented from hunting, one by an acci- 
 dental Lameness, the other by the fear of meeting 
 alone some of the 1 ' ig-Bib Indians. 
 
 Point Lake at the Crow's Neat, where Bumpy bad prom* 
 isc.i t,. meel bin brother Ekehcho 4 with the families, bul did Dot fulfil], 
 1 1 < > i- did any of my party of [ndiana know where in find them : for we 
 had frequently made Area t<> apprize them of our approach, y< 
 d in return aa answers. This disappointment, as might 
 
 6 ill-humor Of tin' Leader and party, die 
 
 . ! torn, i was liberally dls- 
 
 1 on me in bitter reproach for having led them from their fam« 
 
 .1 exposed them to dangers and hardships, which but 
 
 for my influence, they said, they might have Bpared them 
 
 Nevertheless, they still continued to profess tin- sine. Test desire of 
 
 j your wishes in making caches of provisions, and re m a inin g 
 
 until a late season on tin' road that loads from Fort Enterprise t>> 
 
 Fort Providence, through which the Expedition-men hail traveled so 
 
 often tin- year before at the same time, that 
 
 they bad nol tin' least hope eeing one person return from 
 
 the Expedition. These alarming fears 1 never could persuade them 
 
 to dismiss from their minds; they always sneered at what they railed 
 
 •my credulity ,' — • If,' said th< meaning 
 
 Captain Franklin.) or any of his party, should pa^s at my tenU 
 
 they shall be welcome to ;di my | or any thing else thnt I 
 
 may have. 1 And I am sincerely happy to understand, l 
 municaUcn, that in this ho had k.<pt his word— in sending you with 
 
 * Akaiteho
 
 388 Thirty Years 
 
 We were here furnished with a canoe by Mr Smith, 
 and a bowman, to act as our guide ; and having left 
 Fort Chipewyanon the 5 th, we arrived, on the 4th of 
 July, at Norway House. Finding at this place, that 
 canoes were about to go down to Montreal, I gave all 
 our Canadian voyagers their discharges, and sent them 
 by those vessels, furnishing them with orders on the 
 Agent of the Hudson's Bay Company for the amount 
 of their wages. We carried Augustus down to York 
 
 such promptitude and liberality the assistance your truly dreadful 
 situation required. But the party of Indians, on whom I had placed 
 the utmost confidence and dependence, was Humpy and the White 
 Capot Guide, with their sons and soveral of the discharged Hunters from 
 the Expedition. This party was well-disposed, and readily promised 
 to collect provisions for the possible return of the Expedition, provid- 
 ed they could get a supply of ammunition from Pert Providence; for 
 when I c;ime up with them, they were actually starring, and converting 
 old axes into ball, having do other substitute— this was unlucky. let 
 they were well inclined, and I expected to find humus at Fort Provi- 
 dence to semi them a supply, in which I was. however, disappointed, fof 
 
 I found that establishment quite destitute of i essaries; and then, 
 
 shortly after I had left them, they had the misfortune of losing three 
 
 ot their hunters, who were drowned in Marten Lake; this accident 
 
 all others, the most fatal that could have happened—a truth 
 
 which no one, who has the least knowledge of the Indian character, 
 
 will d^ny; and as they were nearly connected by relationship to the 
 
 Leader, Humpy, and White Capot Guide, the three leading men df this 
 part of the Copper Indian Tribe, It had the eflfeot of unhinging (if 1 
 
 ■■ ii spree ion i the minds of all these families, and finally 
 
 de troying all the fond hopes I bad bo sanguinely conceived of their
 
 In it"- An ' -ns. 389 
 
 Factory, where we arrived on the 14th of Jul; 
 were received with every mark of attention and kind- 
 
 by Mr. Simpson, the Governor, Mr. M'Tavish, 
 and, indeed, by all the officers of the United I 
 panies. And thus terminated our long, fatiguing, 
 and disastrous travels in North America, having jour- 
 
 I by water and by land (including our navigation 
 of the Polar Sea,) five th tusand five hundred and fifty 
 miles. 
 
 assisting the expedition, shoold ltd •• River, 
 
 of which they were not certain. 
 
 to my H"i leaving ;i letter uraa because 
 
 by Borne mischance, you bad forgot I e paper* when we 
 
 d.* 
 
 ■ I however wrote this news on a plank, in pencil, and placed it in 
 
 the 1 1 >[ > of your former bedstead, where I left it. Bince it has not 
 
 ami there, Borne Indians must hav< the house after my 
 
 departure, and destroyed it. These details, Sir, I have been induced 
 
 to enter into rather ones in justification of myself, and hope 
 
 it will I 
 
 * J cert " . Wentael torn* paper when It< quitted us, but he 
 
 •hat a note book ; ami Mr, I m a pencil.
 
 390 Thirty Years 
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 Franklin's Second Great Expedition was made 
 in 1825, and over much of the same ground as that 
 traversed in his first. His preparations were more 
 complete than on his first Expedition. His old friends 
 Richardson and Back accompanied him, the whole 
 party crossing the Atlantic in an American packet, 
 and passing through the State of New York. At 
 New York, Albany, and other places on their route 
 receiving the enthusiastic attention of the people — 
 to Canada and thence to Methoye RiVer, north of 
 Hudson's Bay, where they — the officers — joined the 
 boats of the Expedition. 
 
 On the 30th of June, the party entered the Methoye 
 River, and early in July crossed the lake of the same 
 name. On the 12th, Capt. Franklin and Dr. Richard- 
 son Bel "ut in a canoe for Fort Chipewyan, to make 
 preparations for the entire party. On the L5tb they 
 arrived at Athabasca Lake, and were by night at the 
 Fort. By the end of the montb Fori Resolution was
 
 I ■>■.'.. 8 <>n,8. 
 
 • 
 I. and all the portages on the road I 
 The first week in 4- u g u st was spenl 
 M ickenzie River in getting to Fort Simpson. On 
 
 of August a voyage I i the e sa was agreed d] 
 for Capt. Franklin, while Dr. Richardson Bhonld c 
 above the northern Bhore of Bear Lake to tin- Cop] 
 .Min^ River, while Lieutenant Back was to prepare 
 winter quarters for tin- entire party. Capt. Franklin 
 
 off at ooon, arriving in two days at Fort Good 
 II • . ili.- lowest station of the Budson Company. 
 By the middle of August they reached latin; 
 L4' N., — longitude L35°, 57 W., — the north-i 
 cut! the main channel of Mackenzie Ki 
 
 Ml.") miles from Slave Lake. Salt water was 
 
 bed, and the party indulged in a little enthusiasm. 
 The next day the boats were turned towards the 
 Mackenzie <>n their way hark- to winter quart) 
 September 1st, tin' river Mackenzie was left for a 
 stream which flows from Bear Lake, ami on the 5th 
 
 bed the winter quarters. 
 
 winter <»f lsi'.")-*; was passed by tin- company 
 in comparative comfort. Buildings ■■ ted and 
 
 a plentiful supply of provisions stored in tin-in, to- 
 iler with the ex] from fishing and 
 hunting, to cany the p ny cozily through another 
 year. 
 
 AmU8ementS were also provided for the men. while
 
 392 Thirty Years 
 
 the officers made good use of a stock of books and 
 quarterlies which they had brought with them. 
 
 The winter, though severe, passed rapidly away, 
 and spring opened. We quote from Franklin's 
 Journal. 
 
 Wednesday 0n the 2 4 t h f May, 1826, the mosquitoes 
 appeared, feeble at first, but, after a few days, they 
 became vigorous and tormenting. The first flower, a 
 tussilago, was gathered on the 27th. Before the close 
 of the month, several others were in bloom, of which 
 the most abundant was the white anemone. The 
 leaf-buds had not yet burst, though just ready to 
 open. 
 
 The carpenters had now finished the new boat, 
 which received the name of the Reliance. It was 
 constructed of fir, with birch timbers, after the model 
 of our largest boat, the Lion, but with a more full 
 bow, and a finer run abaft. Its length was twenty- 
 six feet, and breadth five feet eight inches. It was 
 fastened in the same manner as the other boats, but 
 with iron instead of copper, and to procure sufficient 
 nails we were obliged to cut up all the spare axes, 
 trenches, and ice-chisels. Being without tar, we 
 substituted ships of water-proof canvas, soaked in 
 Borne caoutchouc varnish, which we had brought out, 
 
 to lay between the seams of the planks ; and for 
 paint, we made use of resin, procured from the pine-
 
 In the An ' ''■ A'- gtOM. 
 
 trees, boiled and mixed with grease. Tin' other boats 
 were afterwards ]>ut in complete repair. The Lion 
 required the must, in consequence of the accid 
 Bear Lake River. The defects in the Other two prin- 
 cipally arose from their having been repaired at Cum- 
 berland Eouse with the elm that grows in its vicinity, 
 and is very Bpongy. We now substituted white spruce 
 fir, which, when grown in these high latitudes, is an 
 excellent wood for boat-building. We were surprised 
 to find, that, notwithstanding the many heavy blows 
 these boats bad received in their passage to this place, 
 there waa timber that required to be changed. 
 
 In our bustle, we would gladly have disj 
 with the presence of the Dog-Bibs (Indians) who now 
 visited ns in great numbers, without bringing any 
 supplies. They continued hanging about the fort, 
 and their daily drumming and singing over the sick, 
 the squalling of the children, and bawling of the 
 men and women, proved no small annoyance. We 
 were pleased, however, at perceiving that the ammu- 
 nition we had given t ) them in return for meat, had 
 enabled them to provide themselves with Leathern 
 
 tents Their only shelter from wind, Bnow, or rain, 
 
 before this . had been a rude barricade of pine 
 
 branches. Fortunately, for our comfort, they were 
 
 obliged to rem icpiration <<( the month 
 
 to a distant fishery to procure provision,
 
 394 Thirty Years 
 
 Thu™ e ist. The preparations for the voyage along the 
 coast being now in a state of forwardness, my atten- 
 tion was directed to the providing for the return of 
 Dr. Richardson's party to this establishment in the 
 following autumn, and to the securing means of sup- 
 port for all the members of the Expedition at this 
 place, in the event of the western party being like- 
 wise compelled to return to it. Respecting the first 
 point, it was arranged that Beaulieu the interpreter, 
 and four Canadians, should quit Fort Franklin on the 
 6th of August, and proceed direct to Dease River 
 with a bateau, and wait there until the 20th of Sep- 
 tember, when, if Dr. Richardson did not appear, 
 they were to come back to the fort in canoes, and to 
 leave the boat, with provision and other necessaries, 
 for the use of the eastern detachment. All these 
 points were explained to Beaulieu, and he not only 
 understood every part of the arrangement, but seem- 
 ed very desirous to perform the important duty en- 
 trusted to him. I next drew up written instructions 
 for the guidance of Mr. Dease, during the absence of 
 tin' Expedition, directing his attention first to the 
 equipment and despatch of Beaulieu on the 6th of 
 August, and then to the keeping the establishment 
 well-stored with provision, He was aware of the 
 probability that tin; western party would meet his 
 iM;ij>-t\'s ship JUossom, and go to Canton in her.
 
 In tin- Ar • '■ !!■ gions. 
 
 But aa unforeseen circumstances might compel us to 
 winter on tbe coa t, I i msidered it necessary t i warn 
 him againsl inferring, from our not returning in the 
 following autumn, that we had reached the Blossom. 
 Be was, therefore, directed to keep Fort Franklin 
 complete, as to provision, until the Bpring of 1S: 
 I>r. Richardson was likewise instructed, before he] 
 tlu> fort in 1827, on his return to England, to£ 
 Mr. Dease fully understood my motives for givi 
 these orders, and that he was provided with I 
 means of purchasing the necessary provision from the 
 
 Indians. 
 
 u ; The long reign of the east wind was at len 
 terminated by a fresh N. W. breeze, and the i 
 r. maining on the small lake soon disappeared, undqr 
 the softening effects of this wind. This lake I 
 been frozen eight months, wanting three days. 
 A narrow channel being opened along the western 
 border of Bear Lake, on the 14th Dr. Rich irdson I 
 advantage of it, and went in a small canoe with two 
 men to examine the mountains on the borders of Bear 
 
 Lake River, and to colli f the plants 
 
 thai were now in dower, intending to rej >in the pa 
 
 at Fori Norman. On the same day. in 1821, the I 
 
 mer Expedi Fori Enterprise 1 >r the Be i. 
 
 Thnr.. '|" n ,. equipments of tile boats 1" LUg nOW 
 
 plete, they were launched on the small lake, and tried
 
 396 Thirty Years 
 
 under oars and sails. In the afternoon the men were 
 appointed to their respective stations, and furnished 
 with the sky-blue waterproof uniforms, and feathers, 
 as well as with the warm 'clothing which had been 
 provided for the voyage. I acquainted them fully 
 with the object of the Expedition, and pointed out 
 their various duties. They received these communi- 
 cations with satisfaction, were delighted with the 
 prospect of the voyage, and expressed their readiness 
 to commence it immediately. Fourteen men, includ- 
 ing Augustus, were appointed to accompany myself 
 and Lieutenant Back, in the Lion and Reliance, the 
 two larger boats ; and ten, including Ooligbuck, to 
 go with Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall, in the Dol- 
 phin and Union. In order to make up the complement 
 of fourteen for the western party, I proposed to re- 
 ceive two volunteers from the Canadian voyagers ; and 
 to the credit of Canadian enterprise, every man came 
 forward. I chose Francois Felix and Alexis Vivier, 
 because they were the first who offered their services, 
 and this too without any stipulation as to increase of 
 wages. 
 
 Spare blankets and everything that could be useful 
 
 for the voyage, or as presents to the Esquimaux, 
 
 which our stores could furnish, were divided between 
 
 -tern and western parties, and put up into bales 
 
 of a Bize convenient for stowage. This interesting
 
 In th. An >'" Regions. 397 
 
 day was closed by the consumption of a small quanti- 
 ty of rum, reserved for the occasion, followed by a 
 ry dance, in which all joined with great glee, in 
 their workio 3. On the following Sunday the 
 
 officers and men assembled at Divine 
 in their new uniforms ; and in addition to the ordi- 
 nary Bervice of the day, the special protection of 
 Providence was implored on the enterprise we wi 
 about to commence. The guns « tned thenext 
 
 day, and Btowed in the arm chests, which had 1 
 
 made to lit the boats. Tuesday and Wednesday 
 
 were set apart for th and men to pack their 
 
 own things. A Btrong western breeze occurred on the 
 21st, which removed the ice from the front of the 
 house and opened a passage to the 1 *, . . i r Lake Kiver. 
 The men were sent with the boats and Btores to the 
 I- in the evening, and were heartily cheered on 
 quitting the beach. The officers remained to pack 
 up the charts, drawings, and other documents, which 
 were to he left at the fort ; and, in the event of none 
 of the officers returning, Mr. D 1 to 
 
 forward them to England. We quitted the house at 
 halt* past ten, on Tuesday morning, Leaving Cot6, 
 the fisherman, in charge, until Mr. Dease Bhould return 
 from Fort Norman. This worthy old man, sharing 
 the enthusiasm that animated the whole party, would 
 not allow us to depart without giving his heat 
 though solitary cheer, which we returned in full chorus.
 
 398 Thirty Years 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 r^nd 9 ' On our arrival at the Bear Lake River, we 
 were mortified to find the ice drifting down in large 
 masses, with such rapidity as to render embarkation 
 unsafe. The same cause detained us the whole of 
 the following day ; and as we had brought no more 
 provision from the house than sufficient for an unin- 
 terrupted passage to Fort Norman, we sent for a sup- 
 ply of fish. This was a very sultry day, the thermom- 
 eter in the shade being 71° at noon, and 74° at three 
 p. M. 
 
 The descent of the ice having ceased at eight in 
 the morning of the 24th, we embarked. The heavy 
 stores were put into a bateau, manned by Canadians, 
 who were experienced in the paBsage through rapids, 
 and the rest of the boats were ordered to follow in its 
 wake, keeping at such a distance from each other as 
 to allow of any evolution that might be necessary to 
 avoid the stones. The boats struck several times, 
 but received no injury. At the foot of the rapid we
 
 In the Arctic A 399 
 
 met a canoe, manned by fonr of our Canadian voya- 
 gers, whom Dr. Richardson had sent with some letters 
 that had arrived at Fort Norman from the A; 
 Lake ; and as the services of the men were wanl 
 they were embarked in the boats, and the canoe was 
 Left. Shortly afterwards we overtook Beaulieu, who 
 had just killed a young moose deer, which afforded the 
 party t^ intial meals. At this spot, and gen- 
 erally along the river, we found abundaD f wild 
 
 onions. 
 
 We entered the Mackenzie River at eight in the 
 evening, and the current being too Btrong for us to 
 advance against the stream with oars, we had recourse 
 t" the tracking line, and traveled all night. It was 
 fatiguing, owing to large portions of the banks having 
 hern overthrown by the disruption of the ice, and 
 from the ground being so soft that the men dragging 
 the roTi" sank up to the knees at every Btep ; but 
 these impediments were I irded than the ceaee- 
 
 tormenl of the musquitoes. We halted to sup at 
 the spot where Sir A. Mackenzie saw the dame rising 
 from th<- hank in ITS;). The precipice was still on 
 fire, the Bmoke issuing through Beveral apertures. 
 Specimens of the c lal were procured. 
 
 • T We reached Fori Norman the 
 
 25th. On the following morning the provision and 
 stores which had been left at this place were exam-
 
 400 Thirty Years 
 
 ined, and found to be in excellent order, except the 
 powder in one of the magazines, which had become 
 caked from damp. I had ordered a supply of iron- 
 work, knives, and beads, for the sea voyage from Fort 
 Simpson ; they had arrived some days before us, and 
 with our stock thus augmented, we were well furnished 
 with presents for the natives. The packages being 
 finished on the 27th, the boats received their respec- 
 tive ladings, and we were rejoiced to find that each 
 stowed her cargo well, and with her crew embarked 
 'floated as buoyantly as our most sanguine wishes bad 
 anticipated. The heavy stores, however, were after- 
 wards removed into a bateau that was to be taken to 
 the mouth of the river, to prevent the smaller boats 
 from receiving injury in passing over the shoals. 
 
 We waited one day to make some pounded meat 
 we had brought into pemmican. In the meantime 
 the seamen enlarged the foresail of the UeliancV. 
 
 The letters which I received from the Athabasca 
 department informed me that the things I had re- 
 quired from the Company in February last, would be 
 duly forwarded ; they likewise contained a very dif- 
 ferent, version of the story which had led us to suppose 
 that Captain Parry was passing the winter on the 
 
 northern coast. We now Learned that, the Indians 
 
 had only seen some pieces of wood recently cut, and a 
 
 deer that had been killed by an arrow ; these things
 
 /// the An ' / 401 
 
 we concluded were done by the Esquimaux Three 
 men from SI ive Lake, whom I had Bent for to Bupply 
 the place of our Chipewyan hunters, who were 
 inactive last winter, joined us at this place. They 
 were to accompany Mr. Dease and the Canadians to 
 Fort Franklin ; and that they, as well as the Indians, 
 might have every encouragement to exert themselves 
 in procuring provision during the Bummer, I dir I 
 a Bupply <>t the goods they were likely to require, to 
 be sent from Fort Simpson, as soon as possible. 
 
 > Early this morniDg the boats v. 
 and decorated with their ensigns and pendants, and 
 after breakfast we quitted the Fort, ami 1st the hearty 
 cheers of our friends Mr. Dease, Mr. Brisbois, and the 
 Canadians, and I am sure carried their best wish 
 our BUCCesS. We balti 1 at, noon to obtain the lati- 
 tude, which placed the entrance of Bear Lake River 
 in G4 C ' 55' -'-T ' N ; and Dr. Richardson took advan- 
 tage of this delay to vi>it the mountain at that point, 
 hut his stay was Bhort, in consequence of a favorable 
 I springing up. We perceived that, the four 
 
 sailed at nearly an equal rate in light bl 
 hut that in Btrong winds the two larger ones had the 
 
 advantage. When we landed to sup the musquitoes 
 
 i us so furiously that we hastily despatched the 
 meal and re-embarked, to drive under easy sail before 
 the current They continued, however, t i pursue us,
 
 402 Thirty Years 
 
 and deprived us of all rest. On our arrival, next 
 morning, at the place of the first rapids, there was 
 scarcely any appearance of broken water, and the sand- 
 bank on which Augustus had been so perilously situa- 
 ted in the preceding autumn, was entirely covered. 
 This was, of course, to be ascribed to the spring floods ; 
 the increase of water to produce such a change, must 
 have exceeded six feet. In the afternoon we were 
 overtaken by a violent thunder-storm, with heavy 
 rain, which made us apprehensive for the pemmican, 
 that spoils on being wet. It unfortunately happened 
 that a convenient place for spreading out the bags 
 that were injured could not be found, until we reached 
 the Hare-Skin River, below the Rampart Defile, which 
 was at nine o'clock. They were spread out the next 
 morning, with the other perishable parts of the cargo, 
 and we remained until they were dry. We embarked 
 at ten, and, aided by a- favorable breeze, made good 
 progress until six p.m., when the threatening appear- 
 ance of the clouds induced us to put on shore, and we 
 had but just covered the baggage before heavy rain 
 fell, that continued throughout the night. Four 
 Hare Indians came to the encampment, to whom dried 
 meat and ammunition wen- given, as they were in 
 want of food from being unable 1" Bet their nets in 
 tin- present high state of the water. These were tin- 
 only nativ.-s seen Bince our departure from Fort Nor-
 
 In the A , '( ' '- /,'■ /'ijHS. 
 
 man ; they informed u>, that, in do1 
 
 being able to procure a sufficiency of fish io the M 
 kciizic ;it tliis season, their companions had withdrawn 
 : iin their subsistence from the small lakes in the 
 interior. 
 
 i" 1y ^ r embarked at half-past one on the morning ot 
 July. The sultry weather of the preceding day made 
 u> qow fei 1 more keenly the chill of a Btrong 
 
 and the mist which it brought on, about four 
 hours after cur departure. This wind, bei trary 
 
 to the current, sunn raised Buch high waves that the 
 boats to >k in a 1 of water ; and as we made 
 
 but little progress, and were very cold, we landed to 
 kindle a fire, and prepare breakfasl ; after which we 
 
 continued the voyage to Port (J 1 Eope, without 
 
 any of the interruptions from Band-banks that we had 
 experienced in the autumn. 
 
 < hi our arrival we were Baluted with a dischai 
 musketry by a large party of Loucheux, who had 1 
 some time waiting at the Fort, with their wives and 
 families, for the purp eing as. A.fter a b1 
 
 conference with Mr. Bell, the master of the post, we 
 were informed that these Indians had lately mi 
 numerous party of Esquimaux at the Red River, by 
 appointment, to purchase their furs ; and thai in cop- 
 
 [uence of a misunderstanding respecting Borne bar- 
 gain, a quarrel had ensued between them, which
 
 404 Thirty Years 
 
 fortunately terminated without bloodshed. We could 
 not, however, gain any satisfactory account of the 
 movements of the Esquimaux. The only answers to 
 our repeated questions on these points were, that the 
 Esquimaux came in sixty canoes to Red Kiver, and 
 that they supposed them to have gone down the 
 eastern channel, for the purpose of fishing near its 
 mouth. The chief, however, informed us that he had 
 mentioned our coming to their lands this spring, and 
 that they had received the intelligence without com- 
 ment ; but from his not having alluded to this com- 
 munication until the question was pressed upon him, 
 and from the manner of his answering our inquiries, I 
 thought it doubtful whether such a communication 
 had really been made. 
 
 We had been led to expect much informal i on from 
 the Loucheux respecting the channels of the river, and 
 the coast on the east and west side near its mouth, but 
 we were greatly disappointed. They were ignorant of 
 the channel we ought to follow in order to arrive at 
 the western mouth of the river ; and the only intelli- 
 gence they gave us respecting the coast on that side 
 was, that the Esquimaux represented it to be almost 
 constantly beset by ice. They said also that they 
 were unacquainted with the tribes who reside to the 
 westward. Several of the party had been down the 
 eastern channel, of which they made a rude sketch ;
 
 Li the Ar>' <ns. 405 
 
 ! their account <»{' the hat, 
 
 • ir as they were acquainted with it, it was free from 
 ice during the Bummer, 
 
 Saving ascertained that the Esquimaux were likely 
 numbers than had been at first 
 imagined, I increased the Btock oi presents from 
 
 re at this place, and exchanged two of our guns, 
 which were defective, that the party mighi have entire 
 ifidence in their anus. And to provide against the 
 aalty of either or both branches of the Expedition 
 having to return this way, 1 requested Mr. Bell to 
 Btore up as much meat as he could during the summer. 
 We learned from this gentleman that the supply of 
 meat at this post was very precarious, and that had 
 we nol left the five bags of pemmican in the autumn, 
 the residents would have been redi ;reat distress 
 
 for food during the winter. These bags were now re- 
 placed. Tin- arrangements being concluded, we spent 
 the greater part of the night in writing to England. 
 ! addressed t > the Colonial Secretary an account "t" 
 our proceedings nj> Co this time, and I felt happy to 
 be able to state that we were equipped with every 
 requisite for the Expedition. 
 
 We quitted !' 1 Hope on the 
 
 2nd. In tie wn the river we wi re visited 
 by several Loucheux, who, the instant we appeal 
 launched their canoes, and cat >ff t<» welcome us.
 
 406 Thirty Years 
 
 "We landed, at their request, to purchase fish ; yet, 
 after the bargain had been completed, an old woman 
 stepped forward, and would only allow of our receiv- 
 ing two fish : she maintained her point and carried off 
 the rest in spite of all remonstrance. The natives 
 were all clothed in new leathern dresses, and looked 
 much neater, and in better health, than last autumn. 
 Being anxious to reach the Red River, we continued 
 rowing against the wind until after midnight. On 
 reaching that place, the ground proved too wet for us 
 to encamp ; we, therefore, proceeded a short distance 
 lower down, and put up under some sandstone cliffs, 
 where there was but just room for the tents. As we 
 were now on the borders of the Esquimaux territory, 
 we devoted the following morning to cleaning the 
 arms ; and a gun, dagger, and ammunition, were is- 
 sued to each person. We had no reason, indeed, to 
 apprehend hostility from the Esquimaux, after the 
 messages they had sent to Fort, Franklin, but vigi- 
 lance and precaution are never to be omitted in inter- 
 course with strange tribes. 
 
 Embarking at two in the afternoon of the 3rd, 
 we soon entered the expansion of the river whence the 
 different channels branch off, and Fid ring along the 
 western Bhore, we came to the head of a branch that 
 flowed towards the Rocky Mountain range. Being 
 anxious not to take the eastern detachment out of
 
 / th Arcti I: 407 
 
 their course, I immediately encamped to make the 
 necessary arrangements for the separation of the par- 
 The warm clothing, shoes, and articles for pre- 
 sents, had been previously put up in separate packag 
 lnit the provisions remained to be divided, which was 
 done in due proportion. Twenty-six pemmi- 
 
 can. and two of ' apart for the Dolphin 
 
 and Union, with a supply of arrow-root, macaroni, 
 flour, and portable soup, making in all eighty d i 
 provision, with an allowance for waste. The Lion 
 and Reliance received thirty-two bags of pemmican, 
 and two of grease, with rafficienl arrow-root, 
 make their supply proportionate to thai of the eastern 
 part)-. Provided no accident occurred, neither party 
 could be in absolute want for the whole summer, be- 
 cause at two-thirds allowance the pemmican could be 
 made to lasl one hundred days ; and we had reason 
 to expect to meel with deer occasionally. In the even- 
 ing 1 delivered my instructions to Dr. Richards* a. 
 
 As the parties entertained for each other sentiments 
 of true friendship and regard, it will easily be imagin- 
 ed that the evening preceding our separation was 
 spoilt in the most cordial and cheerful manner. We 
 fell that we were only separating to be employed mi 
 services of equal interest : and we looked forward with 
 
 delighl to "in- aexl □ ting, when, after a successful 
 
 termination, we mighl recounl tin- incidents of "in-
 
 408 Thirty Years 
 
 respective voyages. The best supper our means af- 
 forded was provided, and a bowl of punch crowned 
 the parting feast. 
 
 We were joined by an elderly Loucheux, who gave 
 us a better account of the eastern and western chan- 
 nels than we had hitherto obtained. " The west 
 branch," he said, " would take us to the sea, and flowed 
 the whole way at no great distance from the mountains." 
 " The eastern was a good channel, and passed close to 
 the hills on that side." He further informed us that 
 the Esquimaux were generally to be found on an island 
 in the eastern channel, but were seldom seen in the 
 western branch. He was, however, unacquainted with 
 the coast, and we found afterwards that he knew little 
 about the movements of the Esquimaux. 
 
 1 4ih ! ' y By six in the morning of the 4th the boats 
 wen: all laden, and ready for departure. It was im- 
 possible not to be struck with the difference between 
 our present complete state of equipment and that on 
 which we had embarked on our former disastrous voy- 
 age. Instead of a frail bark canoe, and a scanty Bap- 
 ply of food, we were now about to commence the sea 
 voyage in excellent boats, stored with three months' 
 provision. At Dr. Richardson's desire the western 
 
 party embarked first. Ee and bis « tpanions saluted 
 
 us with three hearty cheers, which were warmly re- 
 turned ; and as we were passing round the point th.it.
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 40D 
 
 was to hide them from our view, we perceived them 
 also embarking. A igustus was rather melancholj 
 might have been expected, <»n his parting from Oolig- 
 buck, to] d he knew not whither ; but he recov- 
 
 : his wonted flow of spirits by the evening. 
 
 Our ci arse was directly towards the Rocky Moun- 
 tain range, till we came near the low land that skirts 
 its base : where, following the deepest channel, we 
 turned to the northward. I was desirous of coasting 
 the main Bhore, but finding some of the westernmost 
 branches too Bhallow, we kept on the outside of three 
 islands for about twelve miles, when we entered the 
 channel that washes the wesl Bide of Simpson's Is- 
 land. It was winding, and its breadth seldom < 
 ed a quarter of a mile. During our progress we oc- 
 casionally caught a glimpse of the Rocky Mountain -, 
 which was an agreeable relief to the very dull picture 
 that the muddy Islands in our neighborhood afforded. 
 We halted to breakfast just before noon, and observe I 
 the latitude 67° 51' N. 
 
 In 'the aften was Been, and many 
 
 swans and geese ; we did nol fire at them, for fear of 
 alarming any Esquimaux that might be near. En- 
 camped at eighl r. m.j opposite Simpson's Island. 
 The boats were Becured without discharging the i 
 jjocs, and two men were p^sjeed on guard, to be reliev- 
 ed every two hours. 
 
 15
 
 4L0 Thirty Years 
 
 wed. -yy e ggt f orW ard at four a. m., with a favorable 
 breeze, and made good progress, though the river was 
 very winding. At eight we entered a" branch that 
 turned to the westward round the point of Halkett 
 Island into the channel washing the main shore. We 
 soon afterwards arrived at a spot where a large body 
 of Esquimaux had been encamped in the spring, and 
 supposing that they might revisit this place, a present 
 of an ice-chisel, kettle, and knife, was hung up in a 
 conspicuous situation. Soon after we had entered the 
 channel that flows by the main shore, we first perceiv- 
 ed lop-sticks, or pine trees, divested of their lower 
 branches, for the purpose of land-marks, and there- 
 fore concluded it was much frequented by the Esqui- 
 maux. Our course was then altered to N. W., and 
 we soon passed the last of the well wooded islands. 
 The spruce fir-trees terminated in latitude G8° 36' N. ; 
 and dwarf willows only grew below this part. A very 
 picturesque view was obtained of the Rocky Moun- 
 tains, and we saw the entire outline of their peaked 
 hills, table-land, and quoin-shaped terminations. Two 
 Lofty ranges were fronted by a lower line of round- 
 backed hills, in which we perceived the strata to 
 be horizontal, and the stone of a yellow color. A 
 
 lew miles lower down we found hills of sand close to 
 
 he west border of the river. We passed several de- 
 
 I huts, ami i e Bpol saw many chips and
 
 hi tin , \\\ 
 
 pieces of split drift-wood, tli red to have been 
 
 recently out. The channel varied in breadth from a 
 half to three-" quarters of a mile, but, except in 
 
 am of the current, the water was bo shallow as 
 scarcely to float the boats, and its greatest depth did 
 nut five feet We landed at eight P. u , un 
 
 Halkett Island, intending to encamp, hut owing to 
 the swampiness of the ground the tent oould ii"* t be 
 pitched. Eaving made a tire and cooked our Bupper, 
 we retired to sleep under the coverings of the b< 
 which afforded u- good Bhelter from a gale ami heavy 
 rain that came on before midnight Latitude 08° 
 39' N.. longitude 135° 35' W. 
 
 Thnr*. rp ne continuance of stormy weather detained 
 US until two P.M. i<{' the 6th, when, the rain ceasing, 
 
 we embarked. After passing through the expansion 
 
 of the river near the west extreme of Ealketl Island, 
 we turned into the narrower and more winding chan- 
 nel, between Oolvill Island and the main. A fog 
 coming on at eight p.m. we encamped. Several of the 
 glaucous gulls were -een, and this circumstance, 
 well as a line of bright cloud to the NAV. resembling 
 
 the ice-blink, convinced us that the S ea was QOt far 
 
 .itf. A rein-di er appearing near the encampment, two 
 men were sent after it, who n turned unsuccessfuL 
 Augustus obtain* :■ supper. Man] 
 
 swans, and ducks, had been seen on the marshy si: 
 of the island in the course of th" d i\
 
 412 Thirty Years 
 
 r 7ti! y ' Th e night was cold, and at day-light on the 
 7th the thermometer indicated 36°. Embarking at 
 four a.m. we sailed down the river for two hours, when 
 our progress was arrested by the shallowness of the 
 water. Having endeavored, without effect, to drag 
 the boats over the flat, we remounted the stream to 
 examine an opening to the westward, which we had 
 passed. On reaching the opening we found the cur- 
 rent setting through it into the Mackenzie, by whic i 
 we knew that it could not afford a passage to the sea, 
 but we pulled up it a little way, in the hope of ob- 
 taining a view over the surrounding low grounds from 
 the top of an Esquimaux house which we saw before 
 us. A low fog, which had prevailed all the morning, 
 cleared away, and we discovered that the stream we 
 had now ascended issued from a chain of lakes lying 
 betwixt us and the western hills, which were about 
 six miles distant, the whole intervening country be- 
 tween the hills, and the Mackenzie being flat. 
 
 After obtaining an observation for longitude in 136° 
 19' W., and taking the bearing of several remarkable 
 points of the Kooky Mountain range, we returned t<> 
 the Mackenzie, and passing the shallows which had 
 before impeded us, by taking only half the hunts' ear- 
 goes over at a time, we cane' in Sight of the mouth of 
 
 the river. Whilst the crews were Btowing the boats, 
 
 I obtained an observation for latitude in 68° .03' N.,
 
 1 it tin An 413 
 
 and having walked towards the mouth of the rii 
 discovered on an island, which formi d the east side of 
 bay into which the river opened, a crowd of tents, 
 with many Esquimaux strolling amongst them, 1 in- 
 Btantly hastened to the boats, to make preparations 
 for opening a communication with them, agreeably to 
 my instructions. A .-.lection of articles for presents 
 and trade being made, the rest of the lading was cl< 
 ly covered up ; the arms were inspected, and every 
 man was directed to keep his gun ready for immediate 
 use. I had previously informed Lieutenant Back of 
 my intention of opening the communication with the 
 Esquimaux by landing amongsl them, accompanied 
 only by Augustus ; and I now instructed him to keep 
 
 the l>« »:t t ^ afloat, and the news with their arms ready 
 to support us in the event of the natives proving i. 
 tile ; hut on ti" account to lire until he was convinced 
 that our safety could be secured in no other way. 
 Saving received an impression from the narratives of 
 differenl na\ hat the sacrifices of life which had 
 
 occurred in their interviews with j, had been 
 
 generally occasioned by the news mistaking ooise and 
 violent gestures for decided hostility, 1 thought it ne- 
 ny to ' xplain my sentiments on this p lint to all 
 the men, and peremptorily forbade their firing till I 
 Bel the i x imple, i r till they were ordered by 
 
 Lieutenant Back. They were also forbidden to trade-
 
 414 Thirty Years 
 
 with the natives on any pretence, and were ordered to 
 leave every thing of that kind to the officers. 
 
 On quitting the channel of the river we entered into 
 the bay, which was about six miles wide, with an un- 
 bounded prospect to seaward, and steered towards the 
 tents under easy sail, with the ensigns flying. The 
 water became shallow as we drew towards the island, 
 and the boats touched the ground when about a mile 
 from the beach ; we shouted, and made signs to the 
 Esquimaux to come off, and then pulled a short way 
 back to await their arrival in deeper water. Three 
 canoes instantly put off from the shore, and before 
 they could reach us others were launched in such quick 
 succession, that the whole space between the island 
 and the boats was covered by them. The Esquimaux 
 canoes contain only one person, and are named 
 kaiyach8 ; but they have a kind of open boat capable 
 of holding six or eight people, which is named oomiah. 
 The men alone use the kaiyacks, and the oomiaks are 
 allotted to the women and children. We endeavored 
 to count their numbers as they approached, and had 
 preceded as far as Beventy-three canoes, and five 
 oomiaks, when the sea became so crowded by fresh 
 arrivals, thai we could advance im farther iii our 
 reckoning. The three headmost canoes wen- paddled 
 by elderly men, who, mosl probably, had been selected 
 to open the communication. They advanced towards.
 
 In the Arctic S 411 
 
 us with much caution, halting when just within 
 speaking distance, until they had been assured of our 
 friendship, ami repeatedly invited by Augustus to ap- 
 proach and receive the present which 1 offered to 
 them. Augustus next explained to them in detail I 
 purport of our visit, ami told them that it we suc- 
 ceeded in finding a navigable channel for large ships, 
 a trade highly beneficial to them would be opened. 
 They were delighted with this intelligence, and 
 peated it to their countrymen, who testified their joy 
 by tossing their hands aloft, and raising the m 
 deafening shout of applause I ever heard. 
 
 !■ the lir-t pies. 'iit, I resolved to bestow no more 
 gratuitously, but always to exaot something, b >wt 
 small, in return ; the three elderlymen readily offered 
 the ornaments they wore in their cheeks, their arms, 
 and knives, in exchange for the articles I gave them. 
 Up to this time tie- first three were the only kaiyaeks 
 that had ventured near the boats, hut the natives 
 around us had n8w increased to two hundred and fifty 
 or three hundred persons, and they all became anxious 
 to Bhare in the lucrative trade which tie tab- 
 
 lished, and pressed eagerly upon us, offering for - 
 their hows, arrows, aid Bpe us, which they had hither- 
 to kept concealed within their canoes I endeavi 
 in vain, amidst the clamor and bustle of trade, to 
 tain Bome information respecting the coast, hut finding
 
 416 Thirty Years 
 
 the natives becoming more and more importunate and 
 troublesome, I determined to leave them, and, there- 
 fore, directed the boats' heads to be put to seaward. 
 Notwithstanding the forwardness of the Esquimaux, 
 which we attributed solely to the desire of a rude 
 people to obtain the nois#l articles they saw in our 
 possession, they had hitherto shown no unfriendly 
 disposition ; and when we told them of our intention 
 of going to sea. they expressed no desire to detain us, 
 but, on the contrary, when the Lion grounded in the 
 act of turning, they assisted us in the kindest manner 
 by dragging her round. This manoeuvre was not of 
 much advantage to us, for, from the rapid ebbing of 
 the tide, both boats lay aground ; and the Esquimaux 
 told us, through the medium of Augustus, that the 
 whole bay was alike flat, which we afterwards found 
 to be correct. 
 
 An accident happened at this time, which was 
 productive of unforeseen and very annoying conse- 
 quences. A kaiyack being overset by one of the 
 Lion's oars, its owner was plunged into the water with 
 his head in the mud, and apparently in danger of 
 beiag drowned. We instantly extricated him from 
 his unpleasanl situation, and took him into the boat 
 until the water could be thrown out of his kaiyack, 
 and Augustus, seeing him shivering with cold, wrapped 
 him up in his own great coat. At first he was ex-
 
 In the Arci ;< Regi 117 
 
 lingly angry, but soon I I to his 
 
 situation, and looking about, discovered thai we had 
 
 many bales, and other articles, in the boat, which had 
 
 Qcealed from the people in thekaiyacks, by the 
 
 coverings being carefully Bpread over all. He 
 
 in to ask for every thing he Baw, and express d 
 milch displeasure on "ur refusing to comply with his 
 demands ; he also, as we afterwards learned, excited 
 the cupidity of others by his account of the inex- 
 haustible riches in the Lion, and Eteveral of the youn 
 in* ■ r i endeavored to gel into both our boats, but we 
 all their attempts. Though we had not 
 hitherto observed any of them stealing, yel they 
 much desire to obtain my flag, that I had 
 it furled and put out of sight, as well as every thing 
 
 that I thought could prove a temptation to them. 
 
 They continued, however, to press upon us so closely, 
 
 and mule bo many efforts to gel into the boats, that 1 
 
 ; th offer of two chiefs, who said that it" they 
 
 were allowed to come [n, they would keep the otl 
 
 OUt. For a time they kept their word, and the ci 
 
 took advantage of the respite thus afforded, to en- 
 deavor t<> force the boats towards the river int 
 wai K ilian 1. hut tin' Lion was im- 
 
 movable, and Lieutenan 
 
 made his 1. to the Lion by a At this 
 
 time one of the Lion's crew d that the man 
 
 15-
 
 418 Thirty Yeurs 
 
 whose kaiyack had been upset had a pistol under his 
 shirt, and was about to take it from him, but I ordered 
 him to desist, as I thought it might have been pur- 
 chased from the Loucheux. It had been, in fact, 
 stolen from Lieutenant Back, and the thief, perceiving 
 our attention directed to it, leaped out of the boat, 
 and joined his countrymen, carrying with him the 
 great coat which Augustus had lent him. 
 
 The water had now ebbed so far, that it was not 
 knee-deep at the boats, and the younger men wading 
 in crowds around us, tried to steal every thing within 
 their reach ; slyly, however, and with so much dex- 
 terity, as almost to escape detection. The moment 
 this disposition was manifested, I directed the crews 
 not to suffer any one to come alongside, and desired 
 Augustus to tell the two chiefs, who still remained 
 seated in the Lion, that the noise and confusion 
 occasioned by the crowd around the boats greatly im- 
 peded our exertions ; and that if they would go on 
 shore and leave us for the present, we would hereafter 
 return from the ship which we expected to meet near 
 this part of the coast, with a more abundant supply 
 of goods. They received this communication with 
 much apparent satisfaction, ami jumping out of the 
 boats repeated the speech aloud to their companions. 
 From the general exclamation of "teyma" which 
 followed, and from perceiving many of the elderly men
 
 In the . Regions. 419 
 
 retire to a distance, I conceived that tiny acqui 
 in the propriety of the suggestion, ami that tiny were 
 going away, hut I was much deceived. They 
 retired to concert a plan of attack, ami returned in a 
 short time shouting some words which Augustus could 
 nol make out. We ^'ii, however, discovered their 
 purport, by two of the three chiefs who were on board 
 the Reliance, jumping out, ami, with the others who 
 hurried to their a88i8tance, dragging her towards the 
 south shore of the river. Lieutenant Hack d 
 the chief who remained with him to tell them to 
 desist, hut he replied by pointing to the beach, ami 
 repeating the word t> yma, /> yma i with a good-natured 
 smile. He said, however, something to those who 
 were seated in the canoes that wcie alongside, on 
 
 which they threw their long knives and arrows into 
 the boat, taking care, in so doing, that the handles 
 and feathered ends were turned towards the crew, as 
 an indication of pacific intentions. 
 
 A- - i as I perceived the Reliance moving under 
 
 the efforts of the natives, I directed the Lion's . 
 
 endeavor to follow her, hut our boat remained fast un- 
 til the Esquimaux lent their aid and dragged her after 
 the Reliance. Two of the most powerful men, jump- 
 ing on board at the same time, Beized me l.y the wrists 
 and forced me to sit between them ; and as 1 
 
 them loose two or three times, a third Esquimaux
 
 420 Thirty Tears 
 
 took his station in front to catch my arm whenever I 
 attempted to lift my gun, or the broad dagger which 
 hung by my side. The whole way to the shore they 
 kept repeating the "word " teyma," beating gently on 
 my left breast with their hands, and pressing mine 
 against their breasts. As we neared the beach, two 
 oomiaks, full of women, arrived, and the " teymas ' 
 and vociferation were redoubled. The Eeliance was 
 first brought to the shore, and the Lion close to her a 
 few seconds afterwards. The three men who held me 
 now leaped ashore, and tk«se who had remained in 
 their canoes, taking them *ut of the water, carried 
 them to a little distance. A numerous party then 
 drawing their knives, and stripping themselves to the 
 waist, ran to the Eeliance, and having first hauled her 
 as far up as they could, began a regular pillage, hand- 
 ing the articles to the women, who, ranged in a row be- 
 hind, quickly conveyed them out of sight. Lieuten- 
 ant Back and his crew strenuously, but good-humor- 
 edly, resisted the attack, and rescued many things 
 from their grasp, but they were overpowered by num- 
 bers, and had even some difficulty in preserving their 
 arms. One fellow had the audacity to snatch Vivier's 
 knife from hia breast, and te cut the buttons from his 
 coat, whilst three Btoul Esquimaux surrounded Lieut- 
 < nuut Back with uplifted daggers, and were inn 
 in their demands for whatever attracted their atten-
 
 In the Arctic A' fi 421 
 
 tidi, especially for the anchor buttons which In- « 
 on Lis waistcoat. In this juncture a young chief com- 
 ing to his aid, drove the assailants away. In their re- 
 treal they carried off a writing desk and cloak, which 
 the chief rescued, and thru seating himself on Lieu- 
 tenant Back's knee, he endeavored to persuade his 
 countrymen to desist by vociferating " teyma teyma" 
 and was, indeed, very active in saving whatever lie 
 could from their depredations. The Lion had hitherto 
 been beset by Bmaller numbers, and her crew, by firm- 
 ly keeping their seats on the cover Bpread over the 
 cargo, and by beating the natives off with the butt- 
 ends of their muskets, had been able to prevent any 
 article of importance from being carried away. But 
 "in as I perceived that the work of plunder was 
 going on so actively in the Reliance, I went with Au- 
 itua to assist in repressing the tumult; and our 
 bold and active little interpreter rushed among the 
 vd on .-hn-c. and harangued them on their treach- 
 
 onduct, until hfl was actually hoarse. In a 
 
 sh at time, however, I was summoned hack by Dun- 
 can, who called out to me that the Esquimaux had 
 now commenced in earnest to plunder the Lion, and, 
 on my return. I found tl. it lined with 
 
 mon as thick as they could stand, brandishing their 
 knives in the nin.it furious manner, and attempting to 
 seize everything that was movable ; whilst another
 
 422 Thirty Years 
 
 party was ranged on the outside ready to bear away 
 the stolen goods. The Lion's crew still kept, their 
 seats, but as it was impossible for so small a number 
 to keep off such a formidable and determined body, 
 several articles were carried off. Our principal object 
 was to prevent the loss of the arms, oars, or masts, or 
 any thing on which the continuance of the voyage, or 
 our personal safety, depended. Many attempts were 
 made to purloin the bos containing the astronomical 
 instruments, and Duncan, after thrice rescuing it from 
 their hands, made it fast to his leg with a cord, deter- 
 mined that they should drag him away also if they 
 took it. 
 
 In the whole of this unequal contest, the self-posses- 
 sion of our men was not more conspicuous than the 
 coolness with which the Esquimaux received the heavy 
 blows dealt to them with the butts of the muskets. 
 But at length, irritated at being so often foiled in 
 their attempts, several of them jumped on board and 
 forcibly endeavored to take the daggers and shot- belts 
 that were about the men's persons ; and I myself was 
 engaged with three of them who were trying to disarm 
 me. Lieutenant Back perceiving our situation, and 
 fully appreciating my motive's in not coining to ex- 
 tremities, had the kindness to send to my assistance 
 tli>- young chief who had protected him, and who, on 
 
 his arrival, drove my antagonists out of the boat. I
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 423 
 
 then saw thai my crew were nearly overpowered in 
 the fore pari of the boat, and hastening to their aid, 
 I fortunately arrived in time to prevent G Wil- 
 
 Bon from discharging t lie contents of his musket into 
 the body of an Esquimaux He had received a pro- 
 vocation of which I was ignorant until the next day, 
 for the fellow had struck at him with a knife, and 
 cut through his coal and waistcoat; and it was only 
 after the affray was over thai I learned thai Gustavus 
 Aird, the bowman of the Lion, and three of the Re- 
 liance's crew, had also narrowly escaped from being 
 wounded, their clothes being cul by the Wows made 
 at them with knives. No bo< m r was the how cleared 
 of one set of marauders than another party commen- 
 ced their operations at the stern. My gun was now 
 the objeel of the Btruggle, which was beginning to as- 
 sume a more serious complexion, when the whole of 
 the Esquimaux suddenly fled, and hid themselves be- 
 hind the drift timber and canoes on the beach. It 
 
 appears that by the exertions of the crew, the Reliance 
 
 was again afloat, and Lieutenant Back wisely judging 
 
 that this was the proper moment for more active in- 
 terference, directed his men to level their milBKetS, 
 which had produced that sudden panic. The Lion 
 
 happily floated Boon after, and both were retiring from 
 the beach, when the Esquimaux having recovered from 
 their consternation, put their kaiyacka in the water.
 
 424 Thirty Years 
 
 and were preparing to follow us ; but 1 desired Au- 
 gustus to say that I would shoot the first man who 
 came within range of our muskets, which prevented 
 them. 
 
 It was now about eisdit o'clock in the evening, and 
 we had been engaged in this harassing contest for 
 several hours, yet the only things of importance which 
 they had carried off were the mess canteen and kettles, 
 a tent, a bale containing blankets and shoes, one ot 
 the men's bags, and the jib-sails. The other articles 
 they took could well be spared, and they would, in 
 fact, have been distributed amongst them, had they 
 remained quiet. The place to which the boats were 
 dragged is designated by the name of Pillage Point. 
 I cannot sufficiently praise the fortitude and obedience 
 of both the boats' crews in abstaining from the use of 
 their arms. In the first instance I had been influenc- 
 ed by the desire of preventing unnecessary bloodshed, 
 and afterwards, when the critical situation of my 
 party might have well warranted me in employing 
 more decided means for their defence, I still endeavor- 
 ed to temporize, being convinced that as long as the 
 boats lay aground, and we were besel by Buch num- 
 armed with Long knives, bows, arrows, and 
 spears, we could not use fire-arms to advantage. The 
 howling of the women, and Ihe clamor of the men, 
 proved the high exoitement towhich they had wrought
 
 In the Arctu 8 42S 
 
 themselves ; and I am still of opinion that, min 
 as re were with them, the first blood we had shed 
 would have been instantly revenged by the sacrifice of 
 all our Ih 
 
 Bui to resume the narrative of the voyage. The 
 me moderate and fair ; the sails were t 
 and we i i-- d along the cast in a W. N. W. direc- 
 tion, until eleven in the evening, when we halted on 
 a low island, covered with drift wood, to repair the 
 sails, and to put the boats in proper order for a • 
 voyage. Tin- continuance and increase of the favor- 
 able wind urged ns to make all possible despatch, and 
 >• at three in the morning of the 9th again em- 
 barking, we kepi in three fathoms waters at the distance 
 of two miles from the land. After sailing twelve 
 miles, our progn — was completely Btopped by thi 
 adhering to the Bhore, and Btretching beyond the lim- 
 its of our view to seaward. We could not effect a 
 landing until we had gone had; some miles, as we had 
 passed a sheel of ice which was fast to the Bhore ; 
 hut at Length a convenient Bpoi being found, the b 
 were hauled up on the beach; We quickly ascended 
 t,, the top of the bank to look around, and from th< 
 
 had the mortification to perceive that we had JUSI ar- 
 rived in time to witness the firsl ruj-tm 
 The only lane of water in the direction of 0U1 
 was that from which we had been forced to retn
 
 426 Thirty Years 
 
 in every other part the sea appeared as firmly frozen 
 as in winter ; and even close to our encampment the 
 mass.es of ice were piled up to the height of thirty 
 feet. Discouraging as was this prospect, we had the 
 consolation to know that our store of provision was 
 sufficiently ample to allow of a few days' detention. 
 
 The coast in this part consists of black earth, un- 
 mixed with stones of any kind, and its general eleva- 
 tion is from sixty to eighty feet, though in some 
 places it swells into hills of two hundred and fifty 
 feet. A level plain, abounding in small lakes, extends 
 from the top of these banks to the base of a line of 
 hills which lie in front of the Rocky Mountains. The 
 plain was clothed with grass and plants, then in flower, 
 specimens of which were collected. We recognized in 
 the nearest range of the Rocky Mountains; which I 
 have named alter my much-esteemed companion Dr. 
 Richardson, the Fitton and Cupula Mountains, which 
 we had seen from Garry Island at the distance of 
 sixty miles. Few patches of snow wen; visible on any 
 part of the range. 
 
 Saving obtained observations for longitude and va- 
 riation] we retired to bed about eight a. m., but had 
 only just fallen asleep when we were roused by the 
 men on guard calling out that a party of Esquimaux 
 were close to the tents ; ami, on going out, we found 
 the who].- of our party under arms. Three Esqui-
 
 « 
 
 maux had come apon us unawares, and in terror ;it 
 
 so many strangers, they were on the poinl 
 discharging their arrows, when Augusta ar- 
 
 rested them, and by explaining the purpose of our 
 arrival, soon calmed their fears. Lieutenant Back 
 and I having made each of them a present, and re- 
 ceived in return Borne arrows, a very amicable confer- 
 ence followed, which was managed by Augustus with 
 equal tact ami judgment. It was gratifying to ob- 
 serve our visitors jumping for joy as he pointed out 
 the advantages to be derived from an intercourse with 
 the white people, to whom they wen- now introdu 
 for the first time. We found that they belonged to a 
 party whose tents were pitched about two miles from 
 as ; and as they were verydesirous that their friends 
 might also enjoy the gratification of seeing us, they 
 • d that Augustus would return with theintocon- 
 \<y the invitation ; which request was granted at his 
 
 desire. 
 
 Before their departure, mark's being set up <>n the 
 beach ono hundred and fifty yards in front of the tent, 
 and twice that distance from the boats, they were in- 
 formed that this was the nearest approach which any 
 of their party would be permitted to make ; and that 
 at this boundary only would gifts be made, and bar- 
 ter carried on. Augustus was likewise desired to i x- 
 plain to them the destructive power of our guns, and
 
 428 Thirty Years 
 
 to assure them that every person would be shot who 
 should pass the prescribed limit. This plan was 
 adopted in all succeeding interviews with the Esqui- 
 maux. After five hours' absence Augustus returned, 
 accompanied by twenty men and two elderly women, 
 who halted at the boundary. They had come without 
 bows or arrows, by the desire of Augustus, and, fol- 
 lowing his instruction, each gave Lieuteuant Back 
 and myself a hearty shake of the hand. We made 
 presents to every one of beads, fish-hooks, awls, and 
 trinkets ; and that they might have entire confidence 
 in the whole party, our men were furnished with beads, 
 to present to them. The men were directed to advance 
 singly, and in such a manner as to prevent the Es- 
 quimaux from counting our number, unless they paid 
 the greatest attention, which they were not likely to 
 do while their minds were occupied by a succession of 
 novelties. 
 
 Our visitors were soon quite at case, and we were 
 pr< paiing to question them respecting the coast, and 
 the time of removal of the iee, when Augustus begged 
 that he might put on his gayesl dress, and bis medals, 
 before the conference began, This was the work of a 
 few Beconde ; but when he returned, surprise and de- 
 lighl at his altered appearance, and numerous orna- 
 ments so engaged their minds, that their attention 
 could not be drawn to any other subjeot for the next
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 429 
 
 half hour. aaid an old man, taking up his 
 
 initials, "these imi-t have been made by Buch people 
 as you have been describing, for none that we have 
 . could do any thing like it ;"' thru taking hold of 
 his coat, he asked, " what kind of animal do tin 
 skins which you and the chiefs wear belong to ? 
 We have none Buch in our country." The anchor 
 buttons also excited their admiration. At length wu 
 managed to gain their attention, and were informed 
 that, as soon as the wind should blow strong from the 
 land, the ice might be expected to remove from the 
 
 shore, so as to Open ft | for boats, and that it 
 
 would remain in the offing until the reappearance of 
 the star-. •• Further to the westward,'' they con- 
 tinued, "the ice often adheres to the land throughout 
 the Bummer ; and when ii docs break away, it is car- 
 ried but a Bhorl distance to seaward, and is brought back 
 whenever a Btrong wind blows on the roast. It' there 
 be any channels in those parts, they are unsafe tor 
 boats, as tl itinually tossing about. We 
 
 wonder, therefore," they Baid, " that yon are no1 pro- 
 vided with sledges and dogs, as our men are, to travel 
 along the land, when these interruptions occur." 
 They concluded by warning us not to Btay to the 
 westward after the aid be - the 
 
 winds would then blow bI ind pack 
 
 the ice on the shore. On further inquiry we learned
 
 430 Thirty Years 
 
 . 1 — ■■■- ^ ■i H ^ 
 
 that this party is usually employed, during the sum- 
 mer, in catching whales and seals, in the vicinity of 
 the Mackenzie, and that they seldom travel to the 
 westward beyond a few days' journey. We were, 
 therefore, not much distressed by intelligence which 
 we supposed might have originated in exaggerated 
 accounts received from others. In the evening Au- 
 gustus returned with them to their tents, and two of 
 the men undertook to fetch a specimen of the rock 
 from Mount Fitton, which was distant about twenty 
 miles. 
 
 The party assembled at divine service in the even- 
 ing. The wind blew in violent squalls during the 
 night, which brought such a heavy swell upon the ice, 
 that the larger masses near the encampment were 
 broken before the morning of the 10th, but there was 
 no change in the main body. 
 
 M ]'ui'i! :iy ' r -^ ne Esquimaux revisited us in the morning, 
 with their women and children; the party consisted 
 of forty-eight persons. They sealed themselves as be- 
 fore, in a semicircle, the men being in front, and the 
 women behind. Presents were made to those who 
 had not before received any ; and we afterwards pur- 
 chased several pairs of seal-skin boots, a few pieces of 
 
 dressed seal-skin, and Borne deer-skin cut and twisted, 
 
 to be used as cords. Beads, pins, needles and orna- 
 mental urticlrH, were most in request by the women,
 
 In the An tic B( gions. 431 
 
 to whom the - di principally belonged, but the men 
 were eager any thing thai was mad.- of iron. 
 
 Tiny were supplied with hatchets, files, ice chisi 
 fire-steels, [ndian awls, and fish-hooks. They v. 
 vny anxiuus to proenre knives, bul as each was in | 
 
 sion of one, I reserved the few which we had for 
 another occasion. The quarter from whence ti 
 knives were obtained, will appear in a subsequent part 
 of the narrative. It was amusing to see the purp 
 to which they applied the different articles given to 
 them ; some of the men danced about with a large 
 cod-tish hook dangling from the nose, others stuck an 
 awl through the same part, and the women immedi- 
 ately decorated their dresses with the ear-rings, thim- 
 bles, or whatever trinkets they received. There was 
 in the party a great proportion of elderly persons, wdio 
 appeared in excellent health, and were very active. 
 The men wen- stout and robust, and taller than Au- 
 gustus, or than those seen on the east coast by Cap- 
 tain Tarry. Their cheek- bones were less projecting 
 than the representations given of the Esquimaux on 
 
 the eastern coast, but they had the small eye, and 
 broad 0086, w Inch ever distinguish that people. Ex- 
 cept the young persons, the whole party were afflicted 
 with sore eyes, arising from exposure to the glare of 
 
 ice and snow, and two of the old men were nearly 
 blind. They wore the hair on the upper Lip and chin ;
 
 432 Thirty Years 
 
 the latter, as well as that on their head, being per- 
 mitted to grow long, though in some cases a circular 
 spot on the crown of the head was cut bare, like the 
 tonsure of the Roman catholic clergy. Every man 
 had pieces of bone or shells thrust through the sep- 
 tum of his nose ; and holes were pierced on each side 
 of the under lip, in which were placed circular pieces 
 of ivory, with a large blue bead in the centre, similar 
 to those represented in the drawings of the natives on 
 the N.W. coast of America, in Kotzebue's Voyage. 
 These ornaments were so much valued, that they de- 
 clined selling them ; and when not rich enough to pro- 
 cure beads or ivory, stones and pieces of bone were 
 substituted. These perforations are made at the age 
 of puberty ; and one of the party, who appeared to be 
 about fourteen years old, was pointed out, with de- 
 light, by his parents, as having to undergo the opera- 
 tion in the following year. He was a good-looking 
 boy, and we could not fancy his countenance would 
 be much improved by the insertion of the bones or 
 B tones, which have the effect of depressing the under 
 lip, and keeping the month open. 
 
 Their dress consisted of a jacket of rein-deer skin, 
 with a skirt behind and before, and a small hood ; 
 breeches of the same material, and boots of seal-skin. 
 Their weapons for the chase were bows and arrows, 
 very neatly made ; the latter being headed with bone
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 433 
 
 or iroD ; and for fishing, spears tipped with bone. 
 They also catch fish with nets and lines. All were 
 armed with knives, which they either keep in their 
 hand, or thrust up the sleeve of their shirt. They 
 had received from the Loucheux Indians some account 
 of the destructive effi ■• ins. The dress of the 
 
 women differed from that of the men only in their 
 wearing wide trowsers, and in the Bize of their hoods, 
 which do not fit close to the head, but are made large, 
 for the purpose of receiving their children. These 
 are ornamented with Btripes of different colored skins, 
 and round the top U I a band of wolf s hair, 
 
 made to stand erect. Their own black hair is eery 
 tastefully turned up from behind to the top of the 
 head, and tied by strings of white and blue beads, or 
 cords of white deerskin. It is divided in front, so as 
 to form on each side a thick tail, to which are append- 
 ed strings of beads thai reach to the waist. The 
 women were from four feet and a half to four and 
 three-quarters high, and generally fat. Some of the 
 younger females, and the children, were pretty. The 
 
 lady whose portrait adorns this work, was mightily 
 
 pleased at being selected by Lieutenant Back for his 
 
 sketch, and testified herjoy by smiles and many jumps. 
 
 The men, when sitting for their portraits, were more 
 
 sedate, though ool less pleased, than the females ; 
 
 Borne of them remarked tlnrt they were not ban: 
 
 10
 
 434 Thirty Years 
 
 enough to be taken to our country. It will be seen 
 from the engraving, that one of the men had a differ- 
 ent cast of countenance from the rest ; we supposed 
 him to be descended from the Indians. 
 
 It would appear that the walrus does not visit this 
 part of the coast, as none of these people recognized a 
 sketch of one, which Lieutenant Back drew ; but 
 they at once knew the seal and reindeer. We learned 
 hat the polar bear is seldom seen, and only in the 
 autumn ; and likewise that there are very few of the 
 brown bears, which we frequently saw on the coast 
 eastward of the Copper-Mine River. We had already 
 seen a few white whales, and we understood that they 
 would resort to this part of the coast in greater num- 
 bers with the following moon. 
 
 The habits of these people were similar, in every 
 respect, to those of the tribes described by Captain 
 Parry, and their dialect differed so little from that 
 u i d by Augustus, that he had no difficulty in under- 
 standing them. He was, therefore, able to give them 
 mil particulars relative to the attack made by the 
 other party, and they expressed themselves much hurt 
 at their treacherous conduct. "Those are bad men," 
 they said, "and never fail either to quarrel with us, 
 ,1 from as, when we meet. They come, evory 
 . from the eastern side of the Mackenzie, i<> fish 
 at the place where you saw them, and return as soon
 
 Li the Arctic Regions. 435 
 
 as the ice op ns. They are distinguished from 
 who live to the westward of the river, by the men 
 being tattoed across the face. Among our tribes the 
 women only are tattoed ;'' having five or six blur In 
 drawn perpendicularly from the under lip to the chin. 
 The speaker added, "If you are obliged to return by 
 this way, these people remove, we, with a re- 
 
 inforcement of young men, will 1"- in the vicinity, and 
 will willingly accompany you to assisl in repelling any 
 attack." Augustus returned with the Esquimaux to 
 their tents, as there was not the Least prospect of our 
 getting forward, though the ice was Bomewhat broken. 
 
 Toeaday, 2 \ strong breeze from tin- westward during 
 
 the night, contributed, with the Bwell, to the further 
 reduction of the Lee, in front of the encampment ; and 
 on the morning of the 1 1th, the wind changed to the 
 eastward, and removed the pieces a little way offshore, 
 though they were I : oo violently for the boats 
 
 to proceed. The swell having subsided in the after- 
 noon, we embarked ; but at the end of a mile and a 
 half were forced to land again, from the ice b 'ing fixed 
 to the shore ; and as the wind bad now becomi 
 and was driving the louse pieces on the laud the boats 
 were nnloaded and Landed on the beach. From the 
 summit of an adjoining hill w ived an unbroken 
 
 field of ice to th iquently, a barrier to 
 
 our progress.
 
 436 Thirty Years 
 
 We encamped on the spot which our Esquimaux 
 friends had left in the morning, to remove in their 
 oomiaks and kaiyacks towards the Mackenzie, where 
 they could set their fishing nets, and catch whales and 
 seals. One of them showed his honesty, by returning 
 some arrows, and a piece of a pemmican bag, that we 
 had left at our last resting-place. The men also 
 joined us here with specimens of rock from Mount 
 Fitton. ' 
 
 The Esquimaux winter residences at this spot were 
 constructed of drift timber, with the roots of the 
 trees upwards, and contained from one to three small 
 apartments, beside a cellar for their stores. There 
 were generally two entrances, north and south, so low 
 as to make it necessary to crawl through them. The 
 only other aperture was a hole at the top for the 
 smoke, which, as well as the doorways, could be filled 
 up with a block of snow at pleasure. When covered 
 with snow, and with lamps or fire burning within, 
 these habitations must be extremely warm, though to 
 OUT ideas rather comfortless. Lofty stages were erect- 
 ed near them for the purpose of receiving their canoes 
 and bulky articles. The annexed engraving from 
 Lieutenant Back's sketch of these habitations, ten- 
 ders further description unnecessary. A north-east 
 gale came on in the evening, and rolled such a heavy 
 surf on the beach, that twice, during the night, wo
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 437 
 
 were obligi d to drag the borate and ca gher op. 
 
 ut three the next morning a heavy rain 
 commenced, and continued, without intermission, 
 through tin- day ; at which we were delighted, how- 
 ever comfortless it made our situation, because we 
 saw the ice gradually loosening from the land under 
 its effects. We found the keeping a tide-pole fixed 
 in the loose gravel beach impracticable here, as well 
 as at the lasl resting-place, on account of the swell. 
 It appeared to 1"' high water this morning at half 
 pasl one a. y,.. and that the rise of tide was about 
 two led. I ceed hardly observe that we had the sun 
 constantly above the horizon, were it not for the pur- 
 pose of mentioning the amusing mistakes which the 
 men made as to the hour. In fact, when not employ- 
 ed, a question as to the time of day never tailed to 
 mizzle them, except ahout midnight, when the sun 
 was near the northern horizon. 
 
 Lieutenant Back missing the protractor which he 
 used for laying down his bearings on the ma]), Augus- 
 tus set off in the rain early this forenoon to recover 
 it from an Esquimaux woman, whom he had seen pick 
 it. up. The tain ceased in the afternoon, the wind 
 
 dually ab it in the evening it \ 
 
 calm. A south wind followed, which opened a i 
 
 for iih' boat, hut Augustus was no; in sight At 
 midnight we became greatly alarmed for lus safety,
 
 438 Tliirty Tears 
 
 having now found that he had taken his gun, which 
 we supposed the natives might have endeavored to 
 wrest from him, and we were on the point of despatch- 
 ing a party in search of him, when he arrived at four 
 T i3th 8 ' m the morning of the 13th much fatigued, ac- 
 companied by three of the natives. His journey had 
 been lengthened by the Esquimaux having gone far- 
 ther to the eastward than he had expected, but he had 
 recovered the protractor, which had been kept in their 
 ignorance of its utility to us. His companions 
 brought five white fish, and some specimens of crystal 
 with other stones, from the mountains, which we pur- 
 chased, and further rewarded them for their kindness 
 in not allowing Augustus to return alone. 
 
 The boats were immediately launched, and having 
 pulled a short distance from the land, we set the sails, 
 our course being directed to the outer point in view, 
 to avoid the sinuosities of the coast. We passed a 
 wide, though not deep bay, whose points were named 
 after my friends Captains Sabine and P. P. King ; 
 and we were drawing near the next projection, when a 
 compact body of ice was discovered, which was joined 
 to the land ahead. At the same time a dense fo<r 
 came on, thai confided our view to a few yards ; it 
 was accompanied by a gale from the land, and heavy 
 rain. We had still hopes of getting round the point, 
 and approached the Bhore in that expectation, but
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 431 
 
 found the ice so closely packed that we could neither 
 advance nor effecl a landing. We, therefore, pulled 
 to seaward, and turned the boat's head to tl 
 
 ward, to trace the outer bonier of the ice. In this 
 situation we were exposed to great danger from 
 sudden change of wind to S.E., which raised a heavy 
 BWell, and brought down upon us masses of ice of a 
 si/.'' that, tossed as they were by tin.; waves, would 
 have injured a ship. We could only catch occasional 
 glimpses of the laud through the fog, and were kepi 
 in the most anxious suspense, pulling in and out be- 
 tween the floating masses of ire, for five hours, before 
 we could gel near the shore. We landed a little to 
 the west of Point Babine, and only found sufli- 
 cient spare for tin- boats and tents between the 
 bank and the water. The rain ceased for a short 
 time in the evening, and, during this interval, we per- 
 ceived, from the top of the bank, that the whole space 
 
 between us and the distant point, as well as the chan- 
 nel by which we had advanced to the westward, Wi 
 now completely blocked ; so that we had good real 
 to congratulate ourselves on having reached thesh 
 in safety.
 
 440 Thirty Years 
 
 CHAPTER XVI 
 
 juiyulk Although it rained heavily during the night, 
 and the wind blew strong off the land for some hours, 
 there was no other change in the state of the ice on 
 the morning of the 14th, than that the smaller pieces 
 were driven a short way from the beach. The day 
 was foggy and rainy, but the evening fine. The bank 
 under which we were encamped is of the same earthy 
 kind as that described on the 9th, but rather higher 
 and steeper. It contains much wood-coal, similar to 
 that found in the Mackenzie River, and at Garry's Is- 
 land. The beach and the beds of the rivulets that 
 w through the ravines, consist of coarse gravel. 
 S;H'cimens of its stones, of the coal, and of the plants 
 in flower, were added to the collection. We saw two 
 marmots, and two reindeer, which were too wary to 
 allow of our getting within Bhot of them. Between 
 Doon and ten p.m., the Loose Lee was driving in front of 
 the encampment from the N.W. to S.E., and at the
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 441 
 
 latter hour it stopped. We could not deteel any dif- 
 ference in the height of the water, and there w 
 calm the whole time. A light breeze from S.B. after 
 midnight, brought the masses close to the beach. On 
 the morning of the 15th, having ived that the 
 
 ice was loosened from the land near the outer point, to 
 which 1 have given the name of Kay, after some 
 much-esteemed relatives, we embarked, and in tin- 
 course of a few hours succeeded in reaching it, by 
 passing between the grounded masses of ice. On 
 landing at Poinl Kay, we observed that our prog 
 must again he Btopped by a compact hody of ice that 
 was fast to the shore of a deep hay, and extended to 
 our utmost view seaward ; and that we could not ad- 
 vance farther than the mouth el' a river which dis- 
 charged its waters just round the point. The boats 
 were, therefore, pulled to its entrance, and we en- 
 camped. Former cheeks had taught us to he patient, 
 and we, therefore, commenced such employe 
 would b< b1 nerve t<> beguile the time, consoling our- 
 selves with the hope that a Btrong breeze would soon 
 spring up from the land and open a j i Astro- 
 
 nomical observations were obtained, the map car:' 
 on, and ! at Back sketched the beautiful Bcen- 
 
 ery afforded by a view of the Rocky Mountains, while 
 1 was employed in collecting specimens of the plants 
 in flower. The men amused themselves in various
 
 442 Thirty Years 
 
 ways, and Augustus went to visit an Esquimaux 
 family that were on an island contiguous to our en- 
 campment. 
 
 We now discovered that the Rocky Mountains do 
 not form a continuous chain, but that they run in de- 
 tached ranges at unequal distances from the coast. 
 The Richardson chain commencing opposite the mouth 
 of the Mackenzie, terminates within view of our pres- 
 ent situation. Another range, which I have named 
 in honor of Professor Buckland, begins on the west- 
 ern side of Phillips Bay, and extending to the bound- 
 ary of our view, is terminated by the Conybeare 
 Mountain. 
 
 It gave me great pleasure to affix the name of my 
 friend Mr. Babbage to the river we had discovered, 
 and that of Mr. Phillips, Professor of Painting at the 
 Royal Academy, to the bay into which its waters are 
 emptied. We learned from the Esquimaux that this 
 river, which they call Cook-Keaktok, or Rocky River, 
 descends from a very distant part of the interior, 
 though they are unacquainted with its course beyond 
 the mountains. It appeared to us to flow between 
 the Cupola and Barn mountains of the Richardson 
 chain. TIhtc. are many banks of gravel near its 
 mouth, but above these obstructions the channel ap- 
 peared deep, and to be about two miles broad. There; 
 were no rocks in situ, or large stones, near the en-
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 443 
 
 campment ; the idled pebbles on the beach \ 
 sandstone of red and Light-brown colors, one, 
 
 and slaty limestone. We gathered a fine specimen 
 of tertiary pitch-coal. 
 
 Augustus returned in the evening with a young 
 Esquimaux and Ins wife, the only residents at the 
 house lie had visited. They had now quite recovered 
 the panic into which they had been thrown on our 
 first appearance, which was heightened by their being 
 unable to escape from us owing to the want of a canoe. 
 We made them happy by purchasing the fish thej 
 brought, and giving them a few presents ; they con- 
 tinned to skip and laugh as long as they staid. The 
 man informed ns that judging from the rapid d< 
 of the ice in the few preceding days, we might soon 
 expect it to break from the land, so as to allow of 
 our reaching Herschel Island, which was in view ; bul 
 he re], resented the coast to the west ward of the island 
 
 as being low, and bo generally beset with ice, thai he 
 was of opinion we should have greal difficulty in get- 
 ting along. This couple had been left here to collect 
 fish for the use of their companions, who were to re- 
 join them for the purpose of killing whales, as soon 
 as the ice Bhould break up ; and they told us the 
 
 black whales would BOOU conic after its rupture took 
 
 place. It would be interesting to ascertain wh< 
 
 the whales retire in the winter, as they require to in-
 
 444 Thirty Years 
 
 hale the air frequently. Those of the white kind 
 make their appearance when there are but small spaces 
 of open water ; and we afterwards saw two black 
 whales in a similar situation. One might also infer 
 from these circumstances that they do not remove very 
 far. Is it probable that they go, at the close of the 
 autumn, to a warmer climate ? or can the sea be less 
 closely covered with ice in the high northern latitudes ? 
 The situation of our encampment was observed to be, 
 latitude 69° 19' N. ; longitude 138° 10|' W. ; varia- 
 tion 46° 16' E. ; and a rise and fall of nine inches in 
 the water. The wind blew from the west during the 
 night, and drove much ice near the boats ; but as the 
 masses took ground a little way from the shore, we 
 were spared the trouble of removing the boats higher 
 up the beach. 
 
 S, i n 6th y ' We w ere favored in the forenoon of the 16th, 
 by a strong breeze from the land, which, in the course 
 of a few hours, drove away many of these pieces to- 
 wards Point Kay, and opened a passage for boats. 
 We immediately embarked to sail over to the western 
 side of Phillips Bay, concluding, from the motion of 
 the ice, that it must now be detached from that shore. 
 On reaching it, we had the pleasure of finding an open 
 channel close to the beach, although the entrance was 
 barred by ;t stream of ice lying aground on a reef. 
 The boats being forced by poles over this obstruction,
 
 In the Arctic Regions. A US 
 
 we stood ander sail along thi i about five miles 
 
 beyond Poinl Btokea ; but there we wen' again oom- 
 [ed by the closeness of the ice to stop, and from the 
 top of a sand-hill we could not discover any water in 
 the direction of our course. The tents were there! 
 pitched, and the boats unloaded, and hauled on the 
 beach. Heavy rain came on in the evening, by which 
 we indulged the hope that the ice might be loosened. 
 We were encamped on a low hank of gravel which 
 runs alonj; the base of a chain of sand-hills about one 
 hundred and fifty feet high, and forms the coast line. 
 The hank was covered with drift timber, and is the 
 site of a deserted Esquimaux village. The snow still 
 remaining in the ravines was tinged with light red 
 spots. The night was calm, and the ice remained in 
 the same fixed state until six in the morning of the 
 17th, when, perceiving the pieces in the offing to be 
 in motion we launched the boats, and by breaking our 
 way at first with hatchets, and then forcing with the 
 poles through other streams of ice, we contrived to 
 reach Borne lanes of water, along which we navigated 
 for four hours. A strong breeze springing up from 
 seaward, caused the ice to close so fast upon the boat, 
 that we were obliged to put again to the shore, and 
 
 land on a low bank, similar to that on which we had 
 
 rested the night before. It was intersected, however, 
 
 by many pools and channels of water, which cut off
 
 446 Thirty Years 
 
 our communication with the land. As we could not 
 obtain, from our present station, any satisfactory view 
 of the state of the ice to the westward, I despatched 
 Duncan and Augustus to take a survey of it from 
 Point Cat ton, while Lieutenant Back and I made 
 some astronomical observations. They returned after 
 an absence of two hours, and reported that there was 
 water near Herschel Island, and a channel in the 
 offing that appeared to lead to it. We, therefore, 
 embarked ; and by pushing the boats between the 
 masses that lay aground, for some distance, we suc- 
 ceeded in reaching open water at the entrance of the 
 strait which lies between the island and the main, and 
 through which the loose pieces of ice were driving fast 
 to the westward. Having now the benefit of a strong 
 favorable breeze, we were enabled to keep clear of 
 them, and made good progress. Arriving opposite 
 the S. E. end of Herschel Island, we perceived a large 
 herd of reindeer just taking the water, and on ap- 
 proaching the shore to get within shot, discovered 
 three Esquimaux in pursuit. These men stood gazing 
 at the boats for some minutes, and after a short con- 
 sultation, we observed them to change the heads of 
 their arrows, and prepare their bows. They then 
 walked along the south shore, parallel to our course, 
 for the purpose, as we soon found, of rejoining their 
 wives. We reached the place at which the ladies
 
 Iii the Arctic Regions. 447 
 
 were before them, and though invited to land, we were 
 not able, on account of the surf. Augustus was 
 desired to assure them of our friendship, and of our 
 
 intention to stop at the first sheltered Bpot, to which 
 they and their husbands might come to receive a pre- 
 sent. More than this our little friend could not be 
 prevailed upon to communicate, because they were 
 "old wives;" and it was evident that he considered 
 any further conversation with women to be beneath 
 his dignity. On passing round the point we discovered 
 that the ice was closely packed to leeward, and such 
 a heavy swell setting upon it, that it was unsafe to 
 proceed. We, therefore, encamped, and Augustus 
 set off immediately to introduce himself to the Esqui- 
 maux. The tents were scarcely pitched, and the 
 sentinels placed, before he returned, accompanied by 
 twelve men and women, each bringing a piece of dried 
 meat, or fish, to present to us. We learned from 
 them that the boats, when at a distance, had been 
 taken for pieces of ice ; but when we drew near 
 enough for them to distinguish the crews, and they 
 perceived them clothed differently from any men they 
 had Been, they became alarmed, and made ready their 
 arrows, as we had observed. On receiving Borne pre- 
 sents, they raised a loud halloo, which brought live or 
 six others from an adjoining island, add in the evening 
 there was a further addition to the party of some
 
 448 Tliirty Yeurs 
 
 young men, who had been hunting, and who after- 
 wards sent their wives to bring us a part of the spoils 
 of their chase. They remained near the tents the 
 greater part of the night, and testified their delight by 
 dancing and sins-in^. An old woman, whose hair was 
 silvered by age, made a prominent figure in these 
 exhibitions. 
 
 The information we obtained from them confirmed 
 that which we had received from the last party, name- 
 ly, that they procure the iron, knives, and beads, 
 M i7ti? y through two channels, but principally from a 
 party of Esquimaux who reside a great distance to 
 the westward, and to meet whom they send their 
 young men every spring with furs, seal-skins, and oil, 
 to exchange for those articles ; and also from the In- 
 dians who come every year from the interior to trade 
 with them by a river that was directly opposite our 
 encampment ; which I have, therefore, named the 
 Mountain Indian River. These Indians leave their 
 families and canoes at two days' march from the mouth 
 of the river, and the men come alone, bringing no 
 more goods than they intend to barter. They were 
 represented to be tall Btout men, clothed in deer-skins, 
 •and Bpeaking a language very dissimilar to their own. 
 
 They also said that the Esquimaux to the westward, 
 
 speak a dialect so different from theirs, that at the 
 first opening of the communication, which was so re-
 
 In the Arctic Regions, 449 
 
 cent as to be within the memory of two of our pn • 
 companions, they had great difficulty in understanding 
 them. Several quarrels took place at their rirBt meet- 
 ings, in consequence of the western party attempting 
 
 to steal ; but latterly there has been a good under- 
 standing between them, and the exchanges have been 
 fairly made. 
 
 Our visitors did not know from what people either 
 the Indians or the Esquimaux obtained the goods, 
 but they supposed from some " Kabloonacht," (white 
 people,) who reside far to tin- west. As the articles 
 we saw were not of British manufacture, and V. 
 very unlike those sold by the Hudson's Bay Company 
 to the Indians, it cannot be doubted that they are 
 furnished by the Russian Fur Trailers, who receive in 
 return for them all the furs collected on this northern 
 coast. Part of the Russian iron-work is conveyed to 
 the Esquimaux dwelling on the coast east of the 
 Mackenzie. The western Esquimaux use tobacco, 
 and some oi' our visitors had smoked it, but thought 
 the flavor very disagreeable. Until I was aware of 
 their being acquainted with the use of it. I prohibited 
 my men from smoking in tl ence, and after- 
 
 wards from offering their pipes to the Esquimaux 
 any time. At the conclusion of this conference, our 
 visitors assured us, that having now become acquaint- 
 ed with white people, and being conscious that the
 
 450 Thirty Years 
 
 trade with them would be beneficial, they would gladly 
 encourage a further intercourse, and do all in their 
 power to prevent future visitors from having such a 
 reception as we had on our arrival in these seas. We 
 learned that this island, which has been distinguished 
 by the name of Herschel, is much frequented by the 
 natives at this season of the year, as it abounds with 
 deer, and its surrounding waters afford plenty of fish. 
 It is composed of black earth, rises, in its highest 
 point, to about one hundred feet, and at the time of 
 our visit was covered with verdure. The straight be- 
 tween it and the main shore, is the only place that 
 we had seen, since quitting the Mackenzie, in which a 
 ship could find shelter; but even this channel is much 
 interrupted by shoals. 
 
 Tl isih ay On the morning of the 18th the fog was so 
 thick that we could not see beyond the beach. It 
 dispersed about noon, and we discovered that there 
 was a channel of open water near the main shore, 
 though in the centre of the strait the ice was heavy, 
 and driving rapidly to the north-west. We embarked 
 at once, in the expectation of being able to penetrate 
 between the drift ice and the land, but the attempt 
 was frustrated by the shallowness of the water ; and 
 the fog again spreading as thick as before, we landed 
 on a sand-bank. We were soon visited by another 
 party of the Esquimaux, who brought deer's meat for
 
 Iii the Arctic Regions. 451 
 
 Bale ; and although the whole quantity did not 
 amoanl to a deer, we had to purchase it in small 
 pieces. This practice of dividing the meat among 
 
 the party, we found to prevail throughout the voy- 
 ; ami they avowed as their reason for it, the de- 
 sire that every one might obtain a share of the good 
 things we distributed. One of the men drew on the 
 Band a Bketch of the coast to the westward, as far as 
 he was acquainted with it; from which it appeared 
 that there was a line of reefs in front of the coasl the 
 whole way ; the water being deep on the outside of 
 them, but on the inside too shallow even for their 
 oomiacks to float. We subsequently found that his 
 knowledge of the coast did not extend beyond a few 
 days' march. 
 
 The atmosphere becoming more clear about two 
 p. m., we again embarked, and endeavored to get to 
 seaward. The boats, however, soon grounded ; and 
 finding all our attempts to push through any of the 
 channels between the reel's ineffectual, we polled hack 
 close to Eerschel Island. Following, then, the course 
 of tin- drift iee, we passed near to its south-wesl 
 point, which was found to be the only deep passage 
 through the strait. We afterwards entered into a 
 fine sheet of open water, the main body of the ire 
 being about half a mile to seaward, and only a tew 
 bergs lving aground in the direction of our course.
 
 452 Thirty Tears 
 
 The outer parts of the island appeared closely beset 
 with ice. At the end of five miles we discerned 
 another large party of Esquimaux, encamped on a 
 reef; they waved their jackets as signals for us to 
 land, which we declined doing, as we perceived the 
 water to be shallow between us and them. They ran 
 along th-e beech as far as the end of the reef, tempting 
 us by holding up meat. Only two of the party were 
 provided with canoes, and they followed us to a bluff 
 point of the main shore, on which we landed. These 
 proved to be persons whom we had seen at Herschel 
 Island, and who had visited the Esquimaux in this 
 quarter on purpose to make them acquainted with our 
 arrival. We were happy to learn from them that we 
 should not see any more of their countrymen for some 
 time, because, while surrounded by them, the necessity 
 of closely watching their motions, prevented us from 
 paying due attention to other objects. Resuming our 
 voyage, we pulled along the outer border of a gravel 
 reef, about two hundred yards broad, that runs paral- 
 lel to, and about half a mile from, the coast, having a 
 line of drift ice on the outside of us. The wind being 
 contrary, and the evening cold, temperature 40°, we 
 encamped on the reef at eight p. m., where we found 
 plenty of drift timber ; the water was brackish The 
 distance traveled this day was eight miles and a half. 
 The main shore opposite the encampment was low to
 
 In the Arctic 7.' 453 
 
 a great distance from th< ; it then appeared to 
 
 ml gradually to the base of the Bnckland chain of 
 mountains. 
 
 The following morning being calm, and very 
 fine, the bouts were launched at three a. If., and we 
 • off in high spirits ; but after pulling three miles, 
 we perceived the channel of open water becoming 
 narrow, and the pieces of ice heavier than any we had 
 before seen, some of them being aground in three 
 
 fathoms water. At six A. M., after havi: live 
 
 miles and a halt', we were stopped by the ice which 
 adhered to the reef, and was unbroken to seaward. 
 Imagining we saw water at Borne distance beyond this 
 barrier, we were induced to drag the boats across the 
 reef, and launch them into the channel on the inside, 
 in the hope of reaching it. Tins proved to he a hay, 
 at the head of which we arrived in a short time. It 
 was then discovered that a fog hanging over the ice 
 
 had been mistaken for water. The boats were, there- 
 fore, reconveyed across the reef, the tents pitched, 
 
 and we had to draw largely on oiir nearly ezhausl 
 
 Btock of patience, as we contemplated the dreary view 
 of this compact icy field. A herd of rein-deer appear- 
 ed \ irtunely to afford some employment, and 
 most of the men were despatched on the chase, hut 
 only one was successful. The following observati 
 were obtained : — Latitudi 69* 36 V ; longitude l-
 
 454 Thirty Years 
 
 42' W. Being now abreast of Mount Conybeare, 
 Lieutenant Back and I were on the point of setting 
 out to visit its summit, when we were stopped by a 
 very dense fog that accompanied a fresh breeze from 
 the N. W., followed by heavy rain. The weather 
 continued bad, until ten the following morning ; the 
 ice near the beach was broken into smaller pieces, but 
 as yet too closely packed for our proceeding. The 
 water being brackish in front of the reef, we despatch- 
 ed two men to bring some from the pools at a distance 
 inland, which was found to have the same taste ; 
 from this circumstance, as well as from the piles of 
 drift wood, thrown up far from the coast, one may in- 
 fer that the sea occasionally washes over this low 
 shore. The ice broken off from large masses, and per- 
 mitted to drain before it was melted, did not furnish 
 us with better water. A couple of pin-tailed ducks 
 were shot, the only pair seen ; the black kind were 
 more numerous, but were not fired at, as they are 
 fishing ducks, and, therefore, not good to eat. We 
 also saw a few geese and swans. 
 
 F 2 r iBi! y T ne atmosphere was calm, and perfectly clear, 
 on the morning of the 2 1st ; and as there was not any 
 change in the position of the ice, I visited Mount 
 Conybeare, accompanied by Duncan and Stewart. 
 Though its distance was not more than twelve miles 
 from the coast, the journey proved to be very fatigu-
 
 In tho Arctic licgions. 455 
 
 ing, owing to flu' swampiness of the ground I 
 til- mountain and the sea. We had also tin- discom- 
 fort of being tormented the whole way by myriads of 
 
 innsquitoes. The plain was intersected by a winding 
 river, about forty yards broad, which we forded, and 
 on its western side found a thicket of willows, none 
 of which were above seven inches in circumference, 
 and only five or six feet high. At the foot of the 
 mountain were three parallel platforms or terraces, 
 whose heights we estimated at fifty, eighty, and one 
 hundred and thirty feet ; composed of transition slate, 
 the stone of the lowest being of the closest texture. 
 We found tin' task of climbing above the upper ter- 
 races difficult, in consequence of the looseness of the 
 stones, which did not atlbrd a firm footing, but after 
 an hour's labor, we succeeded in reaching the top. 
 The mountain is also composed of slate, but so much 
 weathered Dear the summit, as to appear a mere col- 
 lection of stones. Its height above the sea we esti- 
 mated at eight hundred feet Two or three hardy 
 plants were in flower, at the highest elevation, which 
 we gathered, though they were of the same kind that 
 bad been collected in the lower lands ; and dur- 
 ing the whole march we did not meet with any plant 
 different from the specimens we had already obtained. 
 On aniving at the top of the mountain, we were re- 
 freshed by a strong south wind, which we fondly
 
 456 Thirty Years 
 
 hoped might reach to the coast, and he of service by 
 driving the ice from the land. This hope, however, 
 lasted only a few minutes ; for, on casting our eyes 
 to seaward, there appeared no open water into which 
 it could be moved, except near Herschel Island. The 
 view into the interior possessed the charm of novelty, 
 and attracted particular regard. We commanded a 
 prospect over three ranges of mountains, lying paral- 
 lel to the Buckland chain, but of less altitude. The 
 view was bounded by a fourth range of high-peaked 
 mountains, for the most part covered with snow. 
 This distant range was afterwards distinguished by 
 the name of the British Chain ; and the mountains at 
 its extremities were named in honor of the then Chan- 
 cellor of the Exchequer, and President of the Board 
 of Trade — the Eight Honorable Mr. Kobinson, now 
 Lord Goderich, and Mr. Huskisson. When seen from 
 the coast, the mountains of the Buckland chain ap- 
 peared to form a continuous line, extending from N. 
 W. by N., to S. E. by S. ; but from our present situa- 
 tion we discovered that they were separated from each 
 other by a deep valley, and a rivulet, and that their 
 longest direction was N.N.E. and S.S.W. The same 
 oidcr prevailed in the three ranges behind the Buck- 
 land chain ; and the highest of their mountains, like 
 Mount CoDybeare, were round and naked at the top ; 
 the vallies between them were sirassv. We erected a
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 457 
 
 pile of stones of sufficient height to be seen from the 
 . and deposited underneath it a note, containing 
 the latitude, longitude, and some particulars relative 
 to the Expedition. 
 
 Saturday, rjxfa 22nd was a calm, bultry day, the tem- 
 perature varying between ."38° and (J.j°, and we were 
 tormented by musquitoes. The ice remained very 
 close to ti;^ beach. Impatient of our long detention, 
 we gladly availed ourselves, at three in the morn: 
 of the 23rd, of a small opening in the ice, to launch 
 tl>e boats, and push them forward as far as we could 
 get them. We thus succeeded in reaching a lane of 
 water, through which we made tolerable progress, 
 though after two hours and a half of exertion, we 
 were gradually hemmed in, and forced again to i 
 camp at the mouth of a small stream westward of Sir 
 Pulteney Malcolm River. We had, however, 
 satisfaction of finding, by the observations, that we 
 had gained ten miles. The temperature of the water 
 at the surface a quarter of a mile from the shore was 
 40°, that of the air being 4*J°. The water was | 
 fathoms deep, ten yards from the beach, 
 
 The coast here was about fifteen feet high ; and 
 
 from the top of the bank a level plain extended to the 
 
 • of the mountains, which, though very swampy, 
 
 w:is covered with verdure. At this place we first 
 
 found boulder stones, which were deeply seated in the
 
 458 Thirty Years 
 
 gravel of the beach. They consisted of greenstone, 
 sandstone, and limestone ; the first mentioned being 
 the largest, and the last the most numerous. Having 
 eon several fish leaping in the river, a net was set 
 xcross its mouth, though without success, owing to 
 :he meshes being too large. Two men were des- 
 patched to examine the state of the ice ; and on their 
 return from a walk of several miles, they reported 
 hat, with the exception of a small spot close to the 
 jeach, it was quite compact. They had observed, 
 ibout two miles from the encampment, stumps of 
 Irift wood fixed in the ground at certain distances, 
 ■xtending from the coast across the plain towards the 
 locky Mountains, in the direction of two piles of 
 tones, which were erected on the top of the latter. 
 Ne were at a loss to conjecture what motive the Es- 
 quimaux could have had for taking so much trouble, 
 unless these posts were intended to serve as decoys for 
 the reindeer. The party assembled at divine service 
 n the evening, as had been our practice every Sunday. 
 • v On the morning of the 24th we were able to 
 nake a further advance of two miles and three-quar- 
 ers, by forcing the boats between the masses of ice, 
 bS far as the debouche of another rivulet. Under any 
 >ther circumstance than that of being beset by ice, 
 he beautifully calm and clear weather we then had 
 would have been delightful ; but as our hope of being
 
 In the Arctic Re <j ions. 459 
 
 released rested solely on a strong wind, we n 
 ceased to long for its occurrence. A breeze would 
 have been, at any rate, beneficial in driving away the 
 musquitoes, which were so numerous as to prevenl 
 any enjoyment of the oj^enair, and to keep us confined 
 to a tent filled with smoke, the only remedy against 
 their annoyance, 
 
 T 25th? y ^ ''■' m >re s t'i\\ detained the two following 
 days, and the only things we saw were a grey wolf, 
 some Beak, and some ducks. More tedious hours than 
 those passed by us in the present situation, cannot 
 well he imagined. After the astronomical observa- 
 tions had been obtained and worked, the survey 
 brought up, a sketch made of the encampment, and 
 specimens of the plants and stones in the vicinity col- 
 lected, there was, literally, nothing to do. The anx- 
 iety which was inseparable from such an enterprise as 
 ours, at such an advanced period of the season, left 
 but little disposition to read, even if there had been a 
 greater choice of books in our traveling library, and 
 still less composure to invent amusement Even had 
 the musquitoes been less tormenting, the swampiness 
 of the ground, in which we sank ancle deep at every 
 step, deprived us of the pleasure of walking. A visit 
 to the Bocky Mountains was often talked of, but they 
 were now at a distance of two days' journey, and we 
 dared not to be absent from the boats so long, lest
 
 460 Thirty Years 
 
 the ice, in its fickle movements, should open for a 
 short time. Notwithstanding the closeness of the ice, 
 -we perceived a regular rise and fall of the water, 
 though it amounted only to seven inches, except on 
 the night of the 24th, when the rise was two feet ; 
 but the direction of the flood was not yet ascertained. 
 We found a greater proportion of birch-wood, mixed 
 with the drift timber to the westward of the Babbage, 
 than we had done before ; between the Mackenzie and 
 that river it had been so scarce, that we had to draw 
 upon our store of bark to light the fires. Some lunar 
 observations were obtained in the afternoon of the 25th. 
 and their results assured us that the chronometers 
 were going steadily. At midnight we were visited by 
 a strong S.W. breeze, accompanied by rain, thunder, 
 and lightning. This weather was succeeded by calm, 
 and a fog that continued throughout the next day, 
 and confined our view to a few yards. Temperature 
 from 41° to 43°. On the atmosphere becoming clear 
 Wednesday about nine in the evening of the 2Gth, we 
 discovered a lane of water, and immediately embarking, 
 we pulled, for an hour, without experiencing much in- 
 terruption from the ice. A fresh breeze then sprung 
 up from the N.W., which brought with it a very dense 
 fo"\ and likewise caused the ice to close so fast upon 
 as, that we were compelled to hasten to the shore. 
 We had just lauded, when the channel was complete-
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 4GI 
 
 ly c1m.mi1. We encamped od the western Bide of a 
 river aboul two hundred yards broad, which, at the 
 request of Lieutenant Back, was named after Mr. 
 B khouse, one of the under Secretaries of State for 
 Foreign Affairs. It appeared that the water that 
 flowed from this channel had caused the opening by 
 which we had traveled from our last resting-place ; 
 for beyond if, the ice was closely packed. 
 Th 5Jth.* y ' ^ ,,,no heavy rain fell in the night, and the 
 morning of the 27th was foggy ; but the sun, about 
 noon, having dispersed the fog, we discovered an uj.cn 
 channel, about half a mile from the shore. 
 
 , ! /,;! :, - v < The morningof the 29th opened with hi avy 
 rain and fog ; the precursors of a strong gale from 
 E.N.E., which brought back the ice we had already 
 passed, and closely packed it along the beach, hut we 
 could not perceive that the wind had the slighest 
 effect on the main body at a distance from the shore. 
 This was a v< rj colo\ comfortless day, the temperature 
 between 38° and 42°. On the following morning a 
 brilliant sun contributed with the gale to the disj 
 sion of the mist which had, for Borne days •• r- 
 
 hung the Bocky Mountains, and we had the gratifica- 
 tion of Beeing, for the first time, the whole length of 
 the British Chain of Mountains, which arc no 
 peaked and irregular in their outline, and more 
 picturesque than those of the Buckland Range. In
 
 462 Thirty Tears 
 
 exploring the bed of a rivulet we found several pieces 
 of quartz, containing pyrites of a very bright color, 
 which so much attracted the attention of the crews, 
 that they spent several hours in examining every 
 stone, expecting to have their labor rewarded by the 
 discovery of some precious metal. 
 
 The gale having abated in the evening, we quickly 
 loaded the boats, and pulled them into a lane of water 
 that we had observed about half a mile from the shore. 
 This, however, extended only a short way to the west, 
 and at the end of a mile and a half inclined towards 
 the beach, the ice beyond it being closely packed. 
 Before the boats could be brought to the land, they 
 received several heavy blows in passing through nar- 
 row channels, and over tongues of grounded ice. I 
 walked to the extreme point that we had in view 
 from the tent, and was rejoiced by the sight of a large 
 space of water in the direction of our course ; but up 
 to the point the ice was still compact, and heavy. 
 On my way I passed another Esquimaux village, 
 where there were marks of recent visitors. 
 
 We witnessed the setting of the sun at eleven p.m., 
 an unwelcome eight, which the gloomy weather had, 
 till then, spared us ; for it forced upon our minds the 
 conviction that the favorable season for our operations 
 was fast passing away, though we had. as yet, made 
 so little progress. This was not the only uncomforta-
 
 Iii the Arctic Begiont. 4G3 
 
 ble circumstance that attended us this evening. Our 
 friend Augustus was seized with ;i shivering fit, in 
 of having imprudently rushed, when in 
 full perspiration, into a lake of cold water, to drug out 
 a reindeer which he had killed. lie was unable to 
 walk oncoming out of the water, mid the consequence 
 would have been more serious had it not been for the 
 kindness of his companion, Wilson, who deprived 
 himself of his flannels and waistcoat to clothe him. 
 On their arrival at the tent, Augustus was put be- 
 tween blankets, and provided with warm chocolate, 
 and the only inconvenience that he felt next morning 
 was pain in his limbs. 
 
 ;'- v ' We had several showers of rain during the 
 night, with a steady S.W. breeze, and in the morning 
 of the 31st were delighted by perceiving the ice 
 loosening and driving off the land. We were afloat 
 in a few minutes, and enjoyed the novelty of pulling 
 through an uninterrupted channel as far as Point 
 Demarcation, which has been so named from its \>- 
 situated in longitude 141° \\\, the boundary betwi 
 the British and Russian dominions on the north 
 
 -; of America. This point seems t > be in:: 
 
 rted to by the Esquimaux, as we found here many 
 winter houses, and four large stages. On the latter 
 
 were deposited several bundles of seal and deer ski 
 and several pair of snow-shoes. The snow-shoes were
 
 464 Thirty Years 
 
 netted with cords of deer-skin, and were shaped like 
 those used by the Indians near the Mackenzie. A 
 favorable breeze now sprang up ; and having ascer- 
 tained, by mounting one of the Esquimaux stages, 
 that there was still a channel of open water between 
 a low island and the main shore, we set sail to follow 
 its course. At the end of three miles we found the 
 water gradually to decrease from three fathoms to as 
 many feet, and shortly afterwards the boats repeatedly 
 took the ground. In this situation we were enveloped 
 by a thick fog, which limited our view to a few yards. 
 We, therefore, dragged the boats to the land, until 
 we could see our way ; this did not happen before ten 
 in the evening, when it was discovered from the sub- 
 mit of an eminence about two miles distant, that 
 though the channel was of some extent, it was very 
 shallow, and seemed to be barred by ice to the west- 
 ward. We also ascertained that it was bounded to 
 seaward by a long reef. The night proved very 
 Btormy, and we were but scantily supplied with drift 
 wood. 
 
 1 '>'• Though the morning of the 1st of August 
 commenced with a heavy gale from E.N.E., and very 
 weather, we proceeded to the reef, after much 
 fatigue in dragging the boats over the flats, under the 
 supposition that our best chance of getting forward 
 would be by passing on the outside of it. But there
 
 In the Arctic Regions. 4Go 
 
 finding heavy ice lying aground, and so closely pa 
 as to preclude the possibility of patting tl into 
 
 the wain-, it was determined to examine the chai 
 by walking along the shore of the reef. An outlet to 
 the sea was discovered, but the channel was so fiat 
 that gulls were, in most parts, wading across it; and 
 there was, therefore, no other course than to await 
 the separation of the ice from the reef. On the dis- 
 persion of the fog in the afternoon, we perceived that 
 some of the masses of ice were from twenty to thirty 
 high : and we derived little comfort from behold- 
 ing, from the top of one of them, an unbroken surface 
 of ice to seaward. 
 W< •> ■ -■'. :.y, The gale blew without the least abatement 
 
 throughout the night, and until noon of the 2nd, when 
 it terminated in a violent gust, which overthrew the 
 tents. The field of ice was broken in the offing, and 
 the pieces put in motion ; and in the evening there ap- 
 peared a large space of open water, but we could not 
 take advantage of these favorable circumstances, in 
 consequence of the ioe still closely besetting the n 
 Lieutenant Back occupied himself in sketching I 
 different views from the reef j from one of which I 
 annexed engraving has been b< lected, as conveying an 
 accurate delineation of oar position on Icy Beef ; > 
 remarked large heaps of gravel, fij t above the 
 
 surface of the reef, on the largest iceberg, which must 
 
 2 o«
 
 466 Thirty Years 
 
 have been caused by the pressure of the ice ; and from 
 the top of this berg we had the satisfaction of discov- 
 ering that a large herd of reindeer were marching in 
 line towards the opposite side of the channel. Our 
 party was instantly on the alert, and the best hunters 
 were sent in the Eeliance in chase of them. The boat 
 grounded about midway across, and the eager sports- 
 men jumped overboard and hastened to the shore ; 
 but such was their want of skill, that only three fawns 
 were killed, out of a herd of three or four hundred. 
 The supply, however, was sufficient for our present 
 use, and the circumstances of the chase afforded amu- 
 sing conversation for the evening. 
 
 Th "rd day ' Cm tne morning of the 3rd a strong breeze 
 set in from the east, which we were rejoiced to find 
 caused a higher flood in the channel than we had yet 
 seen, and the hope of effecting a passage by its course 
 was revived ; as the ice was still fast to the reef, and 
 likely to continue so, it was considered better to oc- 
 cupy ourselves in dragging the boats through the 
 mud, than to continue longer in this irksome spot, 
 where the wood was already scarce, and the water in- 
 different. The boats, therefore, proceeded with four 
 m< n in each, while the rest of the crew walked along 
 the shore, and gendered assistance wherever it was 
 i ary, to drag them over the shallow parts, 
 four hours' labor, we reached the eastern part of the
 
 In tin An tic //' gions. 4C7 
 
 bay, which I have had the pleasure of naming after 
 my friend Captain Beaufort, R.X., and which was 
 then covered with ice. We had also the happinec 
 finding a channel that led to seaward, which enabled 
 as to get on the outside of the reef; but as we pushed 
 as close as we could to the border of the packed ice, 
 our situation, for the next four hours, wa*B attended 
 with no little anxiety. The appearance of the clouds 
 bespoke the return of fog, and we were sailing with a 
 strong breeze through narrow channels, between heavy 
 pieces of drift ice, on the outside of a chain of i 
 that Btretched across Beaufort Bay, which we knew 
 could not be approached within a mile, owing to the 
 shallowness of the water. 
 
 At six in the evening, the party passed the termi- 
 nation of the British chain of mountains, and the next 
 
 day came in Bight of the Bomerzoff chain, continuing 
 
 iii boats along the shore. On the 7th of August, Fi- 
 
 loxman Island was reached. J n coasting along the 
 
 Polar Sea, the Expedition was greatly troubled by 
 
 the den which almost put an end to traveling. 
 
 On the Kith day of August, tic forces of the party 
 
 were turned homeward to the winter quarter, at Fori 
 Franklin, near Bear Lake River — which place they 
 reached hi Tim -1\ — after traveling 
 
 in three months, 12048 statute mi: Richardson 
 
 had arrived witli the Eastern detachment of the Ex-
 
 468 Thirty Years 
 
 pedition. He had traveled 1980 miles — a sea voyage 
 of 863 miles included — passing from Sacred Island to 
 Fort Encounter, Fort Encounter to the Copper Moun- 
 tains, and thence overland to Bear Lake. 
 
 The winter of 1826-7 was passed in comparative 
 comfort, certainly without actual suffering ; and late 
 in September, the party arrived in London.
 
 Iii the Arctic lug ions. 4GD 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 On the 26th of May, 1S45, Franklin— long since 
 made Sir John Franklin — with the " Erebus" and 
 " Terror," two strong and well made vessels, with 
 140 men set out on his last Arctic Expedition, and 
 from which he has never returned. 
 
 A letter from Sir John Franklin, dated from the 
 Whaiefish Islands, Baffin's Bay, July 12, 1845, is the 
 last communication from the Expedition ever received 
 in England : their first winter-quarters have been dis- 
 covered, as we shall relate presently ; hut from the 
 spring of 184G all traces vanish ; no grave, no cairn, 
 no relic marks their progress ; no broken spar or shat- 
 tered mast give even the melancholy certainty of ship- 
 wreck and death ; the waters and the wilder] 
 guard their strange secret well, and " there is neither 
 voice nor any that answereth," to guide the progress 
 of the noble-minded men who voluntarily dare the 
 same dread fate in their Bearch for their missing com- 
 rades. How arduously and well that search has been 
 prosecuted, it will be impossible here to relate.
 
 470 Thirty Years 
 
 Sir John Franklin's official instructions directed 
 him to proceed through Barrow's Straits until he 
 reached Cape Walker (lat. 74° 15' N., long. 98° W.) 
 and then to steer S. W. direct for Behrings Straits. 
 
 The story of the search after Sir John Franklin is 
 itself alone worthy of an entire volume, and should 
 the success of the present volume warrant it such a 
 volume may follow it as a sequel. 
 
 The only information respecting trie Expedition, 
 and that is very obscure, is contained in the subjoin- 
 ed letter of Dr. Kae, who prosecuted an overland 
 journey in search of Franklin : 
 
 Repulse Bay, July 29. 
 
 " Sir, — I have the honor to mention, for the information of my 
 Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that during my journey 
 over the ice and snow this spring, with the view of completing the 
 survey of the west shore of .Boothia, I met with Esquimaux in IVlly 
 Bay, from one of whom I learned that a party of ' white nun' 
 (Kablounans) had perished from want of food some distance to the 
 wi itward, and not far beyond a large river, containing many falls 
 and rapids. Subsequently, further particulars were received, and 
 a number of articles purchased, which places the fate of a portion, 
 if not of all, of the then Burvivers of Sir John Franklin's long- 
 losl party beyond a doubt— a fate terrible as the imagination can 
 ive. 
 
 " The substance of the information obtained al various times and 
 from various soun follows : — 
 
 " in the spring, four winters pa I ( pring, 1850), a party of
 
 Iii th> Arctic Regions. 471 
 
 * white men,' amounti nth- 
 
 ward over the ice, and dragging a boat with them, !•; I »qni- 
 
 maux, who were killing seals near t] 8 Dg N\* II- 
 
 liain's Land, which \£ B large island. None of the pai 
 speak the Esquimau* language intelligibly, bu1 by sign* the nal 
 
 made to understand that their ship, or sliij >-. had been cm 
 by ice; and thai they were nqn ■■ they expected to 
 
 find di From the appearanoe of the men, all of whom 
 
 ■ one officer, looked thin, they were then supposed to lie- i 
 
 norl of provisions, and purchased a small seal from the na- 
 \ .1 later date the same season, bnl previous to the break- ■ 
 ing up of the ice, the bodies of Borne thirty persona were discover) d 
 on the continent, and five on an island near it, about a long di 
 journey to the N.W. of a m, which can benootherthan 
 
 B River (named by the Esquimau Doot-ko-hi- 
 
 calik), a~ its description, and that of the low shore in theneighbor- 
 
 h I of Poinl Ogle and Montreal Island, sctlywith tliat 
 
 Back. E me of the bo li - had been buried (prob- 
 ably those of tb of (amine), some were in a tent or 
 
 tents, others nnder the boat, whicb had been turned over to forma 
 Bhelter, and several lay scattered abotri in directional Of 
 
 found mi tb ' island one was supposed to nave been an offli 
 as he had a telescope strapped over his Bhoulders, and his double- 
 barrelled gun lay underneath him. 
 •■ From the mutilated Btate of many of tl . and the eon- 
 
 ■ la evident thai our wretched countrymen had 
 
 driven to ' ; pro- 
 
 •• 'l"h re a] p an d to d an abun ! if ammuniti 
 
 powder was emptied in a heap on ' I by the nal 
 
 out of the kegs or cases containing it ; and a quantity of ball and 
 phot was found below high-water mark, ha . left
 
 472 Thirty Years 
 
 on the ice close to the beach. There must have been a number of 
 watches, compasses, telescopes, guns (several double-barrelled), &c, 
 all of which appear to have been broken up, as I saw pieces of 
 those different articles with the Esquimaux, together with some sil- 
 ver spoons and forks. I purchased as many as I could get. A list 
 of the most important of these I enclose, with a rough sketch of 
 the crests and initials on the forks and spoons. The articles them- 
 selves shall be handed over to the Secretary of the Hudson's Bay 
 Company on my arrival in London. 
 
 " None of the Esquimaux with whom I conversed had seen the 
 ' whites,' nor had they ever been at the place where the bodies were 
 found, but had their information from those who had been there, 
 and who had seen the party when traveling. 
 
 " I offer no apology for taking the liberty of addressing you, as I 
 do so from a belief that their lordships would be desirous of being 
 put in possession, at as early a date as possible, of any tidings, 
 however meagre and unexpectedly obtained, regarding this painfully 
 interesting subject. 
 
 " I may add that, by means of our guns and nets, we obtained an 
 ample supply of provisions last autumn, and my small party passed 
 the winter in snow-houses in comparative comfort, the skins of the 
 deer shot affording abundant warm clothing and bedding. My 
 spring journey was a failure, in consequence of an accumulation of 
 obstacles, several of which my former experience in arctic traveling 
 had not taught me to expect. — I have, <tc, 
 
 • "JOHN RAE, C.F., 
 " Commanding Hudson's Bay Company's Arctic Expedition." 
 
 To such a tragic detail as this nothing can be added. 
 
 There is little from which to draw consolation, and 
 imagination requires no aid to portray the weary
 
 Iii the Arctic Regl 1< :; 
 
 longing for rest and home, which not even the agony 
 of hunger could subdue — vain desires, hopeless craft- 
 ings, never to be realized on earth : lmt can we for a 
 moment doubt, that the merciful All-Father Looked 
 pitifully down apon the homeless ones, and, in his 
 tendei love, closed their long wanderings, and gave 
 them a calmer home ami a more perfect rest than the 
 Lest that earth could offer ! There is much to specu- 
 late upon in this brief narrative. What had become 
 of all the rest ? One hundred and forty men I 
 these Bhores lull of health and vigor, nine short years 
 ago. This painful narrative accounts only too clearly 
 for forty, but where are the hundred ? Then, again, 
 another question arises, how had the intermediate 
 time horn spent between the winter passed al Beechey 
 Island, 1845-G, and the piteous tragedy of L850 ? 
 Searching parties have visited every probable spot 
 -where they could have touched, and since some v. 
 certainly alive at such a comparatively recent date, it 
 seems quite inexplicable that we should not have come 
 upon some traces, either of winter quarters, hedging 
 
 parties, or shipwreck. How was it, again, that while 
 
 the Esquimaux lived comfortably through the winter, 
 the English party in the same district wera a prey to 
 all the agonies of starvation ? Questions like tl. 
 might he multiplied to any extent, but how shall they 
 be answered ?
 
 JSrJi]"W WORK!! 
 
 abics' |niispcnsablt (Companion 
 
 AMI 
 
 HOUSEKEEPERS' GUIDE. 
 
 Wo believe that do one cao read 1 1 i » - contents of tlii.s work, without lieing ! 
 
 convinced of its great cheapness and utility. \ 
 
 Here will be found about 600 recipes, embracing the very best directions for ) 
 
 the Behavior and Etiquette "i Ladies and Gentlemen; Ladies' Toilette Table; i 
 
 Safe Directions for the Management of Children ; ami a large variety of plain \ 
 
 oommon sense Recipes on Cooker] , xc. S 
 
 T^IBLE OF COISTTEISTTS. 
 
 PART I. 
 
 Ague: Air: Aslatlo Cholera : Asthma, Core of Bill limits: pit-. f 
 
 ill.- Lunge, Stomach, and rrom the Nona : Bloodi I n if • 
 Boil* Bowel i uni| lainta In I hildren Burn or Scald 
 
 tain Cure fur a Cold.: I hilbbiiu Cholera Moron* Consumption No. 1 : Cooaumpilre ■ 
 Continued Fever CodtuUhh FIU Corni win Children I • ilnOiil- 
 
 dren Cough Cough, Kecipe for Couraea painful' Cow- pox Cramp in the St ach t'r an, 
 
 No. 1 Croup, No 3 Cutting reeth Deafneei \< Irium rremem Dial - IKarrhea* 
 
 i-v of the Head l>i"» uiog, i 
 l>\ - 1 ■•- 1 -in Karachi), No 1 haracbe No '-' Decern) 
 
 • in ! V. eak Ejel '. : [\,r Boweli In I 
 
 Felon in ihe i ■• tbe Hand Female Ob»i 
 
 Flu or ConvuUioa* in » hildren hlaxneed l«-« . Fluor Albiu Pood for Children I I fo Id. 
 
 fanU in. ■!!. i.i up bj band Front Bile Gleeti I 
 
 No 1 Uravel oi Stone So 'J Headache, Sick Hiocough Hoan>ene«i Humora, n.. i ; 
 v.. i Hysterica , Innano Joint*. Stiffened hri-|nng 
 
 1 t Evil Lame Keel Liver Complaint, No l Lock Jaw 
 
 sine lor « s ... 
 
 • 
 1 
 
 ■ 
 ) Corri 
 ^ for KheumatiMn 
 C of H pture: Sail Kbeuni Sea 1. 1 i erei >en lul i I 
 
 ula Scroll ,, |'„. 
 
 I "' 1 ■■■■■• i • . • . n ., |, sick- / 
 
 ) oeei uening I Uuler , .--■ - to ) 
 
 "v reduce them ; swcH u,gs, .So. i ■ Cane Worm . .■■ thing and Diarrhoea li ; _ 
 
 ) [< \fUmufi OH nut i,y«. 
 
 ■u_ , &
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 
 
 Applet. Preierved ; Blacking, to make ; Britannia Ware, to Clean ; Cucumbers, to Plrkle ; 
 Keep it Ked Ann ; Oysters, to PicUe ; Take Ink from Floors ; Washing Recipe, 
 
 S 
 
 * "INDISPENSABLE COMPANIX)]*"— Contents Continued. * 
 
 reau* ; Toothache, No. 1, No. 2, No. 3 ; Treatment of 1 lildren ; Typhus Fever ; Ulcer ; Oser 
 
 Inward ; Universal Cure ail ; Urinary Discharges, too *r 9 ; Urinary Obstructions ; Varioloid ; ^ 
 
 Volatile Liniment ; Vomiting prevented ; Warts, Na \ Warts, No. 2 ; Weak Eyes ; Weak ( 
 
 Limbs ; Weak Stomach , Wen ; White Mixture for » t ougb, No. 1, No. 2 ; Whites , V\ hit* , 
 
 Swelling ; Whooping Cough, No. 1 ; Whooping Cough, Wt 2; Windy Stomach ; Worms. \ 
 
 PART II, J 
 
 Cakes, Brkad, Yeas?, o J. K 
 
 Apple Snow : Baker's Ginger Bread : Best Cup Cake : B;-e kfast Butter Cakes : Brown or Dys- \ 
 
 pepsia Bread: Buckwheat Cakes: Butter Cakes for Tea: I ike without Eggs: Common 1'lum K 
 
 Cake : Composition Cake : Cream Cup Cake : Cream Cake ■ C iam Cake, No. 2 . Cake, Rich small : f 
 
 Dyspepsia Cake : Dough Nuts : Dyspepsia Bre*d : Hinge- J read : Ginger Nuts : Ginger isnaps : > 
 
 Good Family Cake : Green Corn Cake : Hard Wafers : ko8> ake ; Icing for Cakes ; Imlian Cakes ; ^ 
 
 Indian Corn Cakes ; Indian Griddle Cakes ; Jelly Cake ; lu ables ; Lemon Cake ; Light Cake to , 
 
 be Raked in Cups; Loaf Cake ; Lemon Pie; Measure <"a) s; Molasses Dough Cake; Muffins ; S 
 
 New York Cup Cake; Plain Indian Cakes; Plum Cake; 'ound Cake; Rich Jumbles; Rolls; C 
 
 Rye and Indian Bread; Rice Waffles ; Seed Cakes; Savo Cakes ; Sugar Ginger Bread; Syin- ( 
 
 bals ; Tea Cake, No. 1 ; Yeast — to make ft good ; do. Milk , do. of Cream Tartar and Saleratus. ^ 
 
 Pies, Preserves, Jellies, Sauce, &o. 
 
 Apple Pauce ; Arrow Root Custard ; Barberries, to Preserve ; Black Currant Jelly ; Blanc- 
 Mange ; Calf's Foot Jelly ; Conserve Roses ; Currant Jelly ; Curries : Curry l'owder ; Damsons, 
 to Preserve; Family Mince Pie; Peach Jam • Pumpkin Pie; Raspberry Jam; Rice Jelly; 
 Squash Pie ; Strawberry Jam ; Spruce Beer ; Tomato Catsup ; Tomato Sauce. 
 
 PCDDIWOS. 
 
 Arrow Root Pudding ; Boiled Indian Pudding ; Bird's Nest Pudding ; Christmas Plum Pud- 
 ding ; Damson Pudding ; Indian Fruit Pudding ; Orange Pudding ; Plum Pudding ; Rice Pud- 
 ding. Baked or Boiled ; Rich Apple Pudding ; Sago Pudding ; Sauce for Pudding ; Tapioca Pud- 
 ding 
 
 Meat, Fish, Gravies. &c. 
 
 Boiled Beef : Beef Balls ; Beef, Cold Tenderloin ; Beef, Cold Steaks, to warm ; Beef. Minced ; 
 Beef Steaks Broiled ; Boiled Ham ; Boiled Salmon; Bi end : Sauce ; Broiled Coil ; Broiled Ham; 
 Broiled Salmon ; Broiled Salmon. Dried ; Cabbage Soup ; Caper Sauce ; Chicken, good way to 
 prepare ; Chicken Pie ; Chicken Pot Pie ; Chicken Salad ; Chicken Soup ; Chicken Soup, No. 
 2 , Chowder, how to make : Codfish, salt. Stewed ; Codfish, Salt ; Cod. or other 1 ish. to Fry ; 
 Cod6sh Cakes ; Cold Boiled Cod. to make a dish; Cold Slaw : Dried Codfish ; Dried Cod, a 
 small diah , Dried Salmon ; Fgg Sauce ; Fried Cod ; Fresh Mackerel Soused : Fried Sausages ; 
 Fried Shad ; Baddock ; abater Soup ; Mackerel. Salt ; Melted Butter ; Minced Meat; .Mock 
 Turtle Soup ; Mutton Broth; Mutton, to boil Leg of ; Mutton Chops ; Motion to Blew shoul- ( 
 der of , Oyster Mouth Soup ; Oysters, to Fry ; Oyster Sauce ; Parsley and Butter ; Pig, to .■ 
 Roast . Pork Steak; Roast Pork ; Saudwicb.ee ; Sausage Meat ; Sausages ; Swee! Bread, Liver, V 
 
 BDd Heart ; Salmon ; Salmon to Broil ; Savoy Soup ; Shad, to broil ; Shad Shell I ish ; Spare ' 
 
 Ril> Stewed Lobster : Stewed Oysters ■ Slock for Gravy Soup or soup : Turtle Soup : Tripe ; (, 
 
 White Sauce for Boiled Fowl. ( 
 
 Vegetables, &n. ( 
 
 Cabbage : Coffee, how to Make : Green Peas : Mashed Potatoes ; Onions ; Potatoes, to Boil; \ 
 
 Turnip*. \ 
 
 PART III. S 
 
 Appl 
 Ice 
 
 sell . . 
 
 Ladies' Toii.ettr Table. ( 
 
 ; Flounces ; Hi^h necked Dresses : Ix>tion for Promoting the ( 
 Growth i and Preventing it rom turning lirey ; Style of Bonnet; siiori 'leak ; ( 
 
 to prevent Loosening of the lUir : to Cur.> Ringworm. , 
 
 Q 
 
 
 
 Sent by nail, postage paid, on receiptor th 50 ante. ( 
 
 Add //. DA YTON, Publisher, 
 
 3G HOWARD STREET, N. V.
 
 Q 
 
 «f BOOK. FOil KfKllir FAMILY*. 
 
 ARTS REVEALED, 
 
 AND 
 
 XXNTVERS^L GUIDE, 
 
 paper. Price 50 «'■ 
 
 rhla Dock makes known gome of the most remarkable discoveries in Household 
 Ail'.uis M.my of these Recipes have never before been published, and actually 
 eosl from 120 to B6G«»rh ; and we believe that the Contents below will strong- 
 ly oommtDd tin- Woik to tin- Patronagi of every Family in the land. Herewul ) 
 l>e found .'-lnulc information upon a variety of Important Bubjecta, from the bent S 
 authorities. \ 
 
 < 
 
 TABLE OF CONTENTS. 
 
 Part I — Ths Arii ReMokJ or. Secret modi A."ri<t/-n — Tin- Celebrated ObfiMM Ommt, fur 
 Mending Glass, Marble then ware, \ - c , rba Magic Copying Pram or Manifold Writer, 
 
 Recipe for tha < ntori u -•-■ i , la make a Powder by which you Write with Water , I'u^c'it for 
 Removing Superfluous Hair ; Imperial Ginger Pop ; \ 
 
 , white Spruce Bear Cheap ind Excellent Celling! fee . Das 
 
 . , ink Powder tor Immed ita ' M . to nnke ink for marking Linen with T \oe. hor In 
 
 delible Ink: C on Small iu—r , Root Bear; to make Cologne water; to '.ik ofl 
 
 the • < >i>y of a Print; to ''r^i't.-e a [Yansparent Paper for Drawing; t.. mak* Water Oil for 
 
 to mike taint without White Lead an.i <>i] , to Prepai d; to K ova 
 
 Writing ink tr >m a Pi in tad Page Cotnpoaitioo r«>r Lucifer Matchai ; Lemon Syrup , To make 
 Hi Ilea i . i ssences , a Waterprool Gl ta . Celebrated Ri clpe foi !•■• I w uib : Remark- 
 able < bemloal I ra-ne Compound ; Gold antl Silver Cola I >e tec tor ; Iron Cement ; Wood I 
 Inialiitile Cure for Cancer 
 
 Paat u — tnoalttabU Recipe* for fttmUiet. — To MtColon ftwt in OaHooee and o<h»r G i 
 take stain* out of Mahogany . to Restore Colon taken out oy Acids; to take m Ideal 
 
 Linen . to Clean badlj - i Bed tl >ki , to Deal Veils ; t.i > lean 
 
 Britannia or Silver : Cure foi Bleeding at I . Bard Soap; Method of Cleaning Chine : 
 
 » Foul Casks ; to Deatroj Bed buga ; fa Preserve Hama ; Labor earing Soap ; fo Cl< .1 
 Light Kid Glorea : lo Clean stores and Stone Heartha ; to Clean Mahogany and Marble FuroJ 
 lure . to R j Italian Crape ; to Clean Phials and P<e Plates ; to Cleanse 
 
 ami Mattresses ; to Re re Painl and Puttj from Windo* Glass , \< extract Stains from Whi e 
 
 Coll loo 1 ind Colored Silks - to Woolen I- ead Floors, 
 
 to Remove Black Staina on *carl t Woolen G Is; to Remove Stains from Broadcloth 
 
 I , on the Mixture ol Colore ; Names ol Principal Dyeing I 'i .1 ^-. . 1 1 
 
 the Holding of Colors , Lime Water , ol Blue Black , to make Cheaaic Blue tod 1 
 
 ing Silks in the Small or I al-e Dye; for Discharging Colors; Ligbl nine Silks Green 
 
 rary prettj Hail H own , for Slate colored Silks . lor .1 Stone colored sttk II Violet 
 
 01 lilac ; to Dye a Shawl ' rlmson ; to make Flesh Colors; for s < mon Shawl for Pi' 1:4 
 
 ■ ■ 
 
 , Hands : foi Bleaching Cotta.fi; ior - . Cotton ; for an Olive 
 
 Qraeo , for a Full Y.-liow , to Dye a Pel - •■ Dye Woolen SI iffs Black . a Pti 
 
 Brown, rerj bi ght, the Dye ooaUngbut sixpence ; for Dyeing Black ' loth . 1 - rec 
 
 ttona ior Washing I - us ; for 
 
 Washing Woolens; to Clean Woolen and Silk Shawla, 
 
 Part IV — Important ttutructtmu in roamc Ladim oasd Timmg Gnt'^m^n in ': 
 
 Clfunlin' < ,< -1 1 I're-s, livening Dros •■- . the Hal High neck rocks; 
 
 Short Cloaks, Dres Ing the Hair , Cape, Parity ot lireath. Important Hint 
 
 ana l>ten» of QenUemCO , Chotoe of a Wife ; ilow to Treat a Wil« . 
 
 [C-.tUtnued 0/1 neM yiyt.
 
 ■* ARTS REVEALED.— Content* Continued. 
 
 Part V. — Needlework for Young Ladies, embracing Instructions in Embroidery cm Muf 
 Velvet, <£c. — Embroidery with Floss, three-corded Silk. Chenille, Worsted. Ax. ; Raised ' 
 ery ; stitches in Hmbroidery on Muslin and Lace Work ; Double Button bole S1 
 Stitch Eyelet Holes; hmbroidery. Feather Stitch; Formation ol Bare; Butlun-bc 
 Darning ; Eyelet boles in Lace work ; Interior Stitch, Chain Mitch ; Veining Unen He 
 ing. Lines ; Straight Upen Hem ; Half Herring bone Stitch ; Tambour Milch. .->pots no 
 broidery on Muslin ; Embroidery in Gold lb read ; Instructions in Lace-work ; EmhM 
 Insertion ; Things to be Remembered. 
 
 Part VI. — Rules nj Politeness for Ladies and Gentlemen. — Rules of Politeness ; M 
 tion Cards; How to Address a Lady; Language of the Finger Ring ; Rules of Louver. 
 Young People's Primary Instruction in the Art of Drawing. 
 
 Part VII. — Miscellaneous Recijies. — To.keep the Hair from falling off; Oil for' the Hair, to 
 
 it Curl ; to Cure Freckles. Shaving Soap ; Tincture lor Diseased Hums ; Red Bottle Wax ; W 
 wash thai ■ ill not Hub off ; to make Cloth wind and rain proof ; Feathers, lev >te| s , to Pi 
 Stoves. Black Call ; Inflamed Lyes ; to Blacken the Eyelashes ; to Perfume Clothes , (Vital 
 for Kniptious. Pimples. &c; Cheap, white House Paint ; Confectionery : Ornai Dental Fro- 
 to Clarify Sugar for Candies ; Fine Peppermint Lozenges ; Icing for Cakes ; Salliou Loie> 
 Strawberry Ice Cream. 
 
 Part VIII. — Tfie Doctorat Home. — New Cure for Consumption, Scrofula, Rickets, Piarrhaea, &c 
 Cure lor a Nail Run into the Foot ; Fever and Ague , Cure for the Toothache ; A very Strengt 
 euing lirink ; Cure for Rheumatism ; Very Valuable Remedy for Rheumatism ; Cure for Hydr 
 ; , Tonic Bitters, Bowel Complaints ; Inflammation of the Bowels , Common Canker, Oravi 
 Prevention of Bilious Fever ; Consumption , Hypochondria or Hysteric Passion ; Rabes, or H 
 drophobia; Incubus, or Nightmare ; Cough Compound, Canker Cure ; Piles, Dysentery ; Pain 
 the Breast or Side ; Convulsion Fits, Inward Ulcers; Sore Eyes, Numb Palsy; Flying Rheun 
 tism ; Rheumatic Oil, Soothing Lotion ; I); sentery Specific, particularly for Bloody Dysenter; 
 Invalid Cordial ; Balm of Life, Headache Drops ; for Cleansing and Purifying the Blood ; f 
 Strengthening aud Invigorating the Nerves ; A Shrunk Sinew or Still Joint ; Cancer of tl 
 lire i- it ; Remedy for Cancer. 
 
 Part IX. — Medical Qualities of Roots and Serbs . — Black Alder : Alum Root — Angelica: Thoi 
 
 Apple; Arrow Root — Avens Root : Asarum, or Swamp Asarabacca : Agrimony Beech Drop 
 
 i] ry : Five Fingers, or Cinquefoil : Crawley, or Fever Root : Comfrey . reather lew : lilac 
 
 berry : Dandelion— Wild Turnip Blood Root — Thoroughwort : Indian Tobacco: Wlntergreet 
 
 ik — Pleurisy Root: Queen of the Meadow: < icuta, or PoiBOC Hemlock: Proud Leavi 
 
 Sweet Flag. Rose Willow Dogwood, Dwarf Elder: American Gentian : Sampson Snak 
 
 root Foxglove, Tobacco Mustard. Mallows: Oak Bark, Deadly Nightshade : American Ipeoa 
 
 or Indian Physic : Camomile: Rhubarb Roof : Mandrake, or May Apple Colls FOOL Bitter 
 
 iweet Poke weed : Shumacii. orShoemake: slippery Elm. Poplar . Samole, Black Snake i ><>t 
 Skunk Cabba e f/ansy Wormwood Horse Radish King's Evil Weed Oak «f Jerusalei 
 
 Bed American Senna : Yellow Hock. Gravel Weed Sarsaparilla, Beth Root Tag Aldei 
 
 Langwi Slipper Rattlesnake's Plantain, Blue Flag Sassafras, River rVillon 
 
 ed Peaob free, Valerian Butternut rree Ground Pine Blue Kohoah : White Poppy 
 
 Pepi it, « barooal ol Wood Ergot, Smut Rye, or Spurred Rye Hope Sweet Fern am 
 
 don Saffron Witch Haul Prickly A^h DireoMona for Collecting aud Preserving Vegetables 
 ) Root- Seedl and Fruits LmvU and Flowers. 
 
 Pari X —Ih eases -f Children. — Treatment of Infant* ; Infant's Syrup; Cholera Infantun 
 H,,.,- i pa , Griping and 1 latulenci , the rbruah, lilari bjM , Cutaneous Eruptions ; Falling dim 
 of the Fundament , Dentition 01 Cutting reeth . Convulsions, tha Kloketa . Inw ird i li 
 tion oi tha Spine; Dropsy oo the Brain, or Hydrooi treatment: Inflao 
 
 tion oi the i llee, or Croup; Croup, Symptomi isnl . th 
 
 , |0W (iuui : Aphtha- or Tliru-h, Acidities: (iull.i> h and Excoriation 
 
 "K- 
 
 p. i '-.;i. -Accident or'Xmerpencie —How to be Prepared for Accident! and I R 
 
 I : ' Hi mlool 
 
 , foi i otaah oi of bet i iron n< 
 
 > ak 
 
 itabla . Poultii en , to Purl 
 
 ipiion , Cod Ash IJvei <>il r«i I on im| lion . Rules foi Dli a . Gem ml n> 
 
 Addi //. DA ) TON, Publisher, 
 
 ) 16 H0V7A1 r, N. 1

 
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