THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 ./.' Saiwauv /.'•- 
 
 //,///, // ,>/ pnc _ />,//,/>/' . {)/,.<.
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 THROUGH THE 
 
 BALEARIC AND P1TH1USIAN 
 
 ISLANDS, 
 
 PERFORMED BETWEEN THE YEARS 1801 AND 1806. 
 
 By A.G. DE ST. SAUVEUR, Jcn. 
 
 CONSUL OF TRANCE AT THE BALEARIC ISLES, AUTHOR 
 
 OF PICTURESQUE TRAVELS THROUGH THE 
 
 VENETIAN ISLES, &C. &C. 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH, AND EMBELLISHED WITH 
 ENGRAVINGS. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 printed for RICHARD PHILLIPS, no. 6, bridoe-street, 
 
 BLACKFRIARS, 
 
 By /. G. Barnard, 57, Snow-Hill. 
 
 1808.
 
 
 
 - 
 
 ,
 
 
 1^ f 
 
 ADVEimSElENT. 
 
 
 J.T has been justly remarked that Modern Travellers 
 are addicted to describing such countries as have 
 been newly discovered, while they neglect those which 
 gave them birth. When America was discovered, 
 and afterwards the islands in the Pacific Ocean, all 
 travellers were indifferent to every other part of the 
 world. 
 
 To give a complete description of an extensive 
 country is an undertaking beyond the competency 
 of one individual ; for besides the variety of know- 
 ledge which he ought to possess, he should also have 
 the means of travelling, of residing for a length of 
 time in particular places, and rewarding the natives, 
 whose services he will require on various occasions. 
 
 Convinced of this evident principle, that the 
 knowledge of the geography of a kingdom can only 
 be acquired by general encouragement and liberal 
 assistance, Philip II, of Spain, transmitted in 1575, 
 orders and instructions to all the prelates and go- 
 vernors of the different provinces in his kingdom, 
 directing them to draw up memoranda of every 
 thing worthy of notice, in their respective districts. 
 This task, however, was only executed in part, as its 
 completion was prevented by political events. 
 
 The Balearic and Pithiusian islands, therefore like 
 most of the other provinces of Spain, had their histo- 
 rians and local geographers; but the writers being na- 
 tives of the parts which they have described, so far 
 from giving true accounts, have embellished them 
 with all those wonderful additions which the ima- 
 gination and partiality engender, 
 
 A 2 
 
 Doo
 
 VI ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 With respect to the Pithiusian isles, there is no 
 work extant in which they are described with in- 
 terest; their history beimg founded entirely upon 
 what has bean written relative to the Balearics. In 
 my Account, however, I have omitted no opportunity 
 to gain the most accurate information as to their 
 present state; and the following work may there- 
 fore be considered as the result of all the materials 
 I have been able to collect, during a research of six 
 years in the respective places. Indeed, I may ven- 
 ture to offer it as the most exact and ample 
 description which can be procured of the coasts, 
 and the interior of the islands in question ; and I 
 have, in particular, inserted every thing that re- 
 lates to the character, manners, customs, industry, 
 commerce, costume, and language of the inha- 
 bitants. 
 
 I have also devoted a chapter to the antiquities 
 which have been found, or still exist on the different 
 islands ; and I conclude the whole with an historical 
 sketch. The Balearics have made only a secondary 
 figure in the events which compose the history of the 
 others ; nevertheless, the facts which I have collect- 
 ed, are by no means unworthy of attention.
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 THROUGH THE 
 
 BALEARIC AND PITHIUSIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 CHAP. i. 
 
 SITUATION OF THE BALEARIC AND PITHIUSIAN ISLANDS 
 
 ORIGIN OF THEIR NAMES EXTENT FIGURE 
 
 COASTS, AND ANCHORAGE OF THE ISLANDS OF MA- 
 JORCA AND CADRERIA — DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND 
 OF MAJORCA. 
 
 UNDER the name of the Baleares, or Balearic Isles, arc 
 comprised the isles of Majorca, Minorca, and Cabreria ; 
 they are situated in that part of the Mediterranean formerly 
 called the Iberian sea, because it washed the shores of Spain, 
 the ancient Iberia, and afterwards Balearic, from the names of 
 these two islands. In the time of the Greeks, they were called 
 the Gymnesias : the name of the Baleares was given them by 
 the Romans. According to the best writers of antiquity, Poly- 
 bius, Strabo, and Pliny, these two denominations had their 
 origin from the particular manners of the inhabitants of these 
 islands in times past. The name Gymnesias expresses the cus- 
 tom of the first inhabitants of going naked ; and that of Baleares 
 is derived from their singular skill in the use of the sling. They 
 are now known by the names of Majorca and Minorca. 
 
 Cabreria is a small island dependant on, and very near to 
 Majorca: it has its name from the custom of the Majorcans 
 keeping their flocks of goats to pasture at this place, 
 
 By the name of Pithiuses are distinguished the three islands 
 of Ivica, Formcntera, and Conejera, situated in that part of 
 the Mediterranean called the Gulf of Valencia. They were 
 known to the Greeks and Romans by this denomination ; which 
 by some is thought to be derived from the great number ©f pine 
 trees with vvhiph they abound ; and by others, from a kind of 
 pottery formerly made by the inhabitants, which was one of 
 the chief articles of commerce with strangers. The vases of
 
 6 ST. SAUVEUR'S TRAVELS. 
 
 this pottery were said to have the extraordinary virtue of not 
 receiving or imbibing any kind of poison. Majorca, the most 
 considerable of the Baleares, describes a square, the projecting 
 points of which are the capes Pera, to the east ; Grosses, to 
 the west ; Fromentor, to the north ; and the Salines, or salt- 
 pits, to the south. The circumference is about 143 miles, 54 
 east and vest in length, and 42 north and south in breadth. 
 It is 28 miles from the roadstead of Palma to the Bay of Al- 
 cadia. 
 
 The island of Majorca is distant 26 miles W. S. W. from the 
 nearest point of land of Minorca, 45 E. N. E. from lvica, 90 
 Si. S. E. from Barcelona ; 135 N. N. W. from theCape Tenis, 
 in Africa. The latitude of this island is 39° 57' 15"; the longi- 
 tude 9° 40" E. from the Royal Marine Observatory at Cadiz. 
 On approaching the shore, and keeping to the east of the 
 isle of M ajorca, we soon discover Cape Blanc : going coast- 
 ways to the South we see that of the Salines, where there is good 
 anchorage, sheltered from the winds, which blow from the 
 land. Continuing the same course, we find a smalt road, called 
 Cale-Figuieres ; it can only receive vessels of small burthen. 
 Pursuing our course along the coast, we come to die port Pera; 
 it is half a mile wide at the mouth, and runs about two miles 
 into the land. A few gallies, or at the most, six or seven ships, 
 that draw but little water, can anchor here in good ground. 
 
 We next come to another small harbour, called Colomb, 
 where there is anchorage only for small craft ; it runs in shore 
 near a mile and a half. The village is about two miles from 
 the port. 
 
 Between the cape of the Salines and the isle of Cabreria there 
 are many shoals, and several little islands. Fishermen general)} 
 resort here, as there is plenty of fish. 
 
 Cape Pera is the last of the island of Majorca ! to the east, 
 going thence north, we find the bay of Alcudia, where the an- 
 chorage is sheltered by Cape Ferrouil. W. N. W, of the bay, 
 about two miles distant, is the town of Alcudia. 
 
 Continuing a course to the N. after doubling the cape of 
 Alcudia, we make the port of Polenza, which was called by 
 the ancients Partus Minor, to distinguish it from that of Alcu- 
 dia, which they called Portus Major. There is good anchorage 
 in this port for ships of almost any burthen, wher« they are 
 sheltered from every wind, and protected by a tower tolerably 
 well fortified. This tower is situated half way up the harbour, 
 where there are also several windmills. There is plenty of fresh 
 water to the South of the tower. 
 
 The village of Pollenza is two miles from the sea shore, and
 
 
 ISLE OF DRA-GONIERES. 7 
 
 is situated behind a mountain. Pollenza and Alcudia are the 
 two best anchorages of the island of Majorca. At the entrance 
 of the roadstead of Pollenza, there is, on the right, a little 
 island near the land; at the mouth, the soundings are from 27, 
 23, 20, and 17 fathoms ; diminishing gradually. At the time 
 of the expedition against Mahon, under the command of the 
 Marechal de Richelieu, the squadron and the Spanish convoy 
 were at anchor in the bay of Alcudia, at the same time that the 
 
 j port of Pollenza was occupied by the English. To the west of 
 Pollenza is the coast of Soller, which is dangerous, as it con- 
 
 r sists of lofty barren mountains, and has no good anchorage ; it 
 is necessary to go large from the land in this place, as 
 a shoal runs out ten miles distant, where the soundings are ten 
 fathoms ; the sea breaking over it is very dangerous, and else- 
 where denotes other shallows which are not known ; therefore 
 great care is necessary, in bad weather, to go very large from 
 this dangerous shore, which affords no other shelter than the 
 little port of Soller ; only fit for small trading vessels which 
 draw but little water. The mouth of this harbour is narrow, 
 and difficult to enter. A battery of four pieces of camion de- 
 fends the entrance. It is here that the small craft of the 
 island take in their cargoes of oranges for France, and some 
 few for Spain. 
 
 The isle of the Dragonieres is situated in the latitude 30° 40". 
 It has two towers for its defence, where the signals to the ships 
 are displayed. There is a passage to Friou, between the Dra- 
 gonieres and the island of Majorca ; but it requires great caution 
 in the navigation, as there are, near the middle, rocks which 
 are almost level with the water, and some of which appear 
 above it. Towards the South is a small port, called Andraig ; the 
 entrance is so narrow that it is hazardous for ships to go in. 
 The anchorage is in seven and eight fathoms, and a muddy bottom. 
 Pursuing the same route, you make the Cape Fromentor, 
 where begins the road of Majorca to the westward. Having 
 doubled the Cape, you enter the roadstead : it is extensive, 
 and there is goocr anchorage ; but open to the south-west, 
 which occasions a great deal of sea. The Point of Saint 
 Charles is seen protected by a castle of the same name, 
 which is square, and was built by the Emperor Charles the 
 Fifth. The Port aux Pins is an harbour where vessels of a 
 certain burthen, and even frigates are moored by cables made fast 
 on shore. The ships are protected from every wind ; and the 
 entrance was formerly shut by means of a chain. This port can 
 only contain a small number of vessels ; the mouth is defended 
 by a battery situated on the point next the town, upon which, in
 
 8 ST. SAtVEURS TRAVELS. 
 
 front, is the light-house, which serves to direct mariners in the 
 night, and to make signals to the ships observed in the offing. 
 
 About half way from Port aux Pins to the town, is situated 
 the castle of Belver, on a hill. It was built by King Don 
 Jayme II. It is of an oval form, and rather large. On the 
 side next the town is first seen a large round tower, which, at a 
 distance, appears detached from the castle : state prisoners are 
 confined here. This fort, guarded by about fifty infantry, is 
 under the command of a lieutenant colonel, retired from active 
 service. 
 
 A little distance from Belver, on the brow of another hill, 
 which descends to the sea, is built the Lazaretto. It was con- 
 structed in 1656, and is divided into several wards, where they 
 air and purify the merchandize. Two of these compartments, 
 situated at the bottom of the hill, on the sea shore, are abso- 
 lutely of no use in rainy seasons ; the flowing of the water inun- 
 dates them entirely. The passengers have no other lodging than 
 some little rooms in the upper pa> t of the building. This laze- 
 retto, by the few conveniences, or rather by the many incon- 
 veniences found there, is not very well suited for the purpose of 
 its establishment. Its vicinity to the town, and to a much fre- 
 quented road, would be dangerous in case the persons or effects 
 being kept there, should be infected with the plague. -These ob- 
 servations gave birth to the design of building a new pest-house 
 on the island of Cabreria ; the situation could not be better ; but 
 the distance, and the passage by sea, present risks and expences 
 too bui thensome to commerce : the project was therefore given 
 up, and the interest of the merchant prevailed against the con- 
 sideration of the public health. 
 
 The port of Palma is small, and can only admit vessels which 
 draw but little wut.r ; they moor in the north part, at the 
 mole. 
 
 The cente or in" island of Cabreria is at the distance of ten 
 miles N. E. I N. from the cape of Salines of Majorca ; its lati- 
 tude is 39° 7 30", and the longitude 9° 1 6' 2(r E. from the 
 Observatory of Cadiz. This island is of some elevation, and is 
 three miles in length S. W. and N. E. and two mi'es and three 
 quarters E. and VV. in breadth ; the shore is clean, and the 
 bottom is, generally speaking, sea-weed. Not far from the 
 coast there are some small islands, which are seen at the same 
 time with Cabreria. 
 
 Almost in the middle of that side of the island which 
 looks to the south, there arc four small islands, which they 
 call Estellens. The two highest are very near, and almost 
 touch Cabreria ; and the two others are farther from the first,
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR MARINERS* 9 
 
 about a cable's length and a half to the south. The coast of 
 these islands is clean, and vessels of any burthen may pass 
 through the straight they form. 
 
 At the south-east of Cabreria is another small island called 
 Imperial, higher than the others, but situated so near the coast, 
 that it is with difficulty even boats can pass. 
 
 About one third of a mile to the north of Cape Ventosa, 
 which is the farthest N. E. from Cabreria, is the island Re- 
 donda, larger than the Imperial. Vessels of all descriptions can 
 pass between Redonda and Ventosa ; the depth is ten or twelve 
 fathoms. 
 
 In the passage from Isle Imperial to Cape Ventosa, is seeri 
 Bleda, a little low island, almost touching the other shore. 
 Between Bleda and Cape Ventosa, the coast forms a large 
 creek, in which, in the northern part, is a road called Olla, and 
 to the south another called Bori : they only serVe for the fishing- 
 boats. 
 
 To the N. 35 Q W. of Cape Ventosa, distant about a rhile^ 
 and two miles and one third to the N. 67° 5 E. of Cape Le- 
 Veche, is the S. W. extremity of the island of Conejera, the 
 highest and most considerable of all those in the neighbourhood 
 of Cabreria. 
 
 Conejera is about a mile in length from N. N. E. to S. S.W. 
 There is a passage through the straight formed by Cabreria and 
 the Isle Redonda. The soundings are ten and twelve fathoms. 
 
 At the N. N. E. extremity of Conejera there are four little 
 islands close together ; three are called the Planes, dnd the 
 fourth Furadada, which is the highest. The straight which 
 these islands form is deep, but so narrow, that nothing but 
 boats can pass through. 
 
 The island Furadada, and the Cape Salines of Majorca, are 
 five miles and a half distant from each other, N. E. 3° N. and 
 S. W. 3 tt S. In the middle of this passage the soundings are 
 20 and 25 fathoms ; the depth decreases near the two shores to 
 10 fathoms. 
 
 In these straights we frequently meet strong currents, which 
 follow the direction of the winds that prevail. 
 
 The port of Cabreria is a little distant to the S. S. E. of 
 Cape Leveche. This cape is a land-mark. There is seen, at 
 the entrance of the port, a cavern, called Obispo, which you 
 leave to the starboard; and, to larboard, the Point of Creveta, 
 which is the eastermost, and forms the port. Within this point 
 is observed the castle of Cabreria, situated on a mountain. The 
 entrance of the port is about a cable's length iu breadth ; and 
 
 ST. SAUVEUR.] B
 
 ,10 ( st. sauveur's travels. 
 
 thorc are every where from 20 to 0.5 fathoms ; so that the largest 
 ships may outer. 
 
 Having doubled the point of Creveta, several fishermen's huts 
 appear ; opposite to which there is anchorage in eight and ten 
 fathoms. Vessels may be moored on the eastern side, and ride 
 safely with two anchors. The port is large, and the shores 
 which inclose it are level- The north wind blows into the 
 harbour. 
 
 Having the wind to the north-west, blowing fresh, to go into 
 the port of Cabreria, care must be taken to keep the Cape 
 Leveche to the N. W. since, from that Cape to the anchor- 
 age, the squalls from the mountains are sometimes so strong, 
 that they carry away the masts of a vessel. The same attention 
 must be paid vviUi the wind at east. 
 
 At a little distance, on the east of the point Creveta, there 
 is a large cieek, called the road of Gandus : the bottom is good, 
 but this road is open to the "north and north-east. It often hap- 
 pens that, owing to voyagers not having a perfect knowledge 
 of the coast, they confound this creek with Port Cabreria. 
 To avoid the mistake the Cape Leveche must be made, and then 
 the coast pursued to the anchorage. 
 
 At a mile and three quarters to the S. 15° W. of the Cape 
 Leveche, and that of Picamoscas and near to the middle of the 
 coast of that Cape, there is a little creek called Galeota. Be- 
 tween the Cape Picamoscas and that of Ansiola, which is the 
 most southern of the Island, is another creek which has an 
 island at its entrance. These two creeks are only frequented by 
 fishermen, who come hither to fish when the wind is at east. 
 
 The island of Cabreria is nearly uncultivated. Some islanders 
 with the garrison of the castle, which is from ten to twelve men 
 in time of peace, and from forty to fifty in time of war, compose 
 the whole population. The Majorcans keep at pasture in 
 Cabreria flocks of goats. This island supplies a small quantity 
 of iire wood. 
 
 THE ISLAND OF MAJORCA. 
 
 The island of Majorca is very hilly, particularly in that part 
 which is opposite to Catalonia. The N. E. part is separated 
 from the S. \V. by a chain of lofty mountains. Its population 
 is divided into fifty-two inhabited places, two cities, thirty vil- 
 lages, and the rest small hamlets ; the quality of the soil is excel- 
 lent, and its productions with the exception of corn, sufficient 
 for the consumption of the islanders. 
 
 Leaving Palma, the capital of the isle, and going to the E. 
 keeping along the sea coast, the first village of any note that we 
 come to is Llnch the greater, situated on a pleasant plain, 
 famous for the battle in which king Don Jayme the third
 
 BUILDINGS IN MAJORCA. M 
 
 lost his life and crown. This village was built by king Don 
 Jayme the second in the year 1300 ; the number of its in- 
 habitants amounts to near 3500. 
 
 Corn and figs are the principal productions of this canton ; it 
 also maintains a considerable number of cattle. The streets and 
 houses of Lluch the greater, are tolerably regular. 
 
 The principal church is that belonging to the Convent of 
 Saint Francis ; the architecture is simple, and in other respect* 
 it has nothing remarkable. Near this village is a mountain 
 called La Randa. On the summit is a college with a chapel, 
 where about titty young children are instructed in the first rudi- 
 ments of learning, at the expence of the university of Palma. 
 From the top of La Randa, is beheld the most delightful pros- 
 pect ; on one side is a grand view of the sea, and on the other 
 the country, which presents a cheerful landscape. The moun- 
 tain La Randa has obtained a celebrity from the retreat of 
 Raymond-Lulle, chief of the sect of the Lullists, who was as 
 famous for his enthusiasms/ and the delirium and extravagance 
 of his propositions, as illustrious for his virtues. This philosopher, 
 surnamed the illuminated doctor, was born in the isle of 
 Majorca, in 1236; he applied with indefatigable perseverance 
 to the study of the philosophy of the Arabians, to chemistry, 
 physic, ruid theology, and at length went to pie.ich the 
 gospel in Africa, and was stoned to death in Mauritania, 
 on the 2pth of March, 1315. He is esteemed a martyr among 
 the people at Majorca, where his body was conveyed, and de- 
 posited. His absurd doctrines have still a number of followers 
 in the university of Palma. 
 
 About a league and a half from this city is a pond called 
 le Prat : the unwholesome exhalations of this collection of 
 stagnant water, are very prejudicial to the cultivators of the lands 
 in the vicinity. This pond might be easily drained by conduct- 
 ing the waters to the sea, which is very nigh. 
 
 Two leagues to the S. E. is the village of Campos ; it is not so 
 considerable as Lluch the greater; it was also founded in the 
 thirteenth century. The lands are divided into corn fields and 
 meadows. The wealth of the inhabitants, the number of whom 
 is at most four or five thousand, consists chiefly of corn and 
 cattle. Campos is not far from the royal salts pits, which are 
 situated on the sea shore. They do not obtain from these pits 
 the quantity, which a more extensive operation would certainly 
 procure. 
 
 A league to the N. of Campos there is a mineral spring, 
 called Saint John's Fountain, which is a specific for the itch and 
 other cutaueous distempers. Probably virtues of greater extent 
 
 b 2
 
 IS ST. sauveur's travels. 
 
 might be discovered, if these waters were analysed. M.Bleau 
 in his " Atlas general" speaks highly of this spring. 
 
 Continuing in the road to the N. we come to a large plain well 
 cultivated, and very fertile in com, and which might with pro- 
 priety be called the granary of the island of Majorca. This ex- 
 tent of land is occupied by the villages of Porreras, Algaida, 
 Montuiri, Villa-Franca, San Juan, and Petra. The population 
 in this canton may be about 11 or 12000 souls. 
 
 The inhabitants obtain from hence wines, brandies and 
 olive oil for their consumption, but corn is their chief wealth. 
 The gardens produce abundance of roots and culinary vegetables 
 of every kind. They gather yearly a large quantity of figs, which 
 they dry. Their flocks are sufficient for the purposes of manuring 
 the land as well as for the consumption of the country. 
 
 At Petra is a paper-mill, but the munufacture is of a very 
 ordinary quality. 
 
 Continuing our way along the sea-shore a little more to 'the 
 E. of the Cape des Salines, (Salt Pits), we come to the village 
 Santagni; his well built with stone of an excellent quality, 
 which is found in the neighbourhood. Santagni was often 
 forsaken by its inhabitants, at the times when the Barbary corsairs* 
 made incursions into the interior of the lands. The parish 
 church is remarkable for is size, but the architecture is heavy 
 and in bad style. The population of Santagni amounts to 5000 
 souls. The lands in this part of the island are very fertile, and 
 produce much wheat and barley. In the vicinity of Santagni, 
 are a great number of tombs, which are said to be of the times, 
 when the Romans were in possession of Majorca. I wished to be 
 convinced of the truth of this assertion, but could not find any 
 inscription to remove my doubts on the subject. Tradition 
 alone says that these sepulchres belonged to the Romans. 
 
 To the north of Santagni, about three leagues distant, is the 
 village Felanix, which is one of the largest and best built in the 
 island; it contains 5 or 6000 inhabitants ; they grow plenty of 
 corn and have a sufficient number of cattle ; but their chief 
 wealth is derived from their brandies. Felanix is the canton which 
 furnishes the most in quantity, and the best in quality of this li- 
 quor ; the exportation of which is one of the most advantageous 
 branches of commerce in Majorca. The monks of St. Augustine 
 have here a handsome convent. Half a league from this village 
 there is a small hill, on the top of which is a chapel where the 
 islanders pay their devotions to an image of Christ, which, 
 has given the name of San-Salvador to this mountain ; near the 
 chapel is a kind of inn, for the accommodation of the pilgrims, 
 whose devotion leads them to the place. There is a convenient
 
 CHARACTER OF THE MAJORCANS. 13 
 
 ascent cut in the rock to the summit of the hill. The Majorcans 
 preserve with particular care those small chapels, which are 
 built on the summit of almost every mountain in the island. 
 
 Four leagues N. £ N. E. from Felanix is Manacor, a village 
 situated in a fertile plain ; most part of the land belongs to the 
 noblesse of Majorca, who here pass the summer. Manacor u 
 one of the largest villages in the island ; the population is esti- 
 mated at the number of 7000 ; the inhabitants are rich in corn, 
 wines, vegetables, figs, and herds of cattle. The monks of St. 
 Dominic have a small convent at Manacor. They shew in the 
 parish church an old picture of the crucifixion, and praise highly 
 the painting. I could not judge of its merits, because the chapel 
 is very dark. I remarked the same want of light in almost all 
 the churches of Majorca. 
 
 To the E. is the little village Sangervera ; it is very near 
 the sea. 
 
 To the north of Sanservera, is Arta, which is built on a 
 rough and hilly situation. This village is one of the largest and 
 handsomest of the island ; contains about 8000 people ; the in- 
 habitants keep numerous flocks and herds of cattle ; the chief 
 produce is oil and vegetables ; they also grow cotton, which 
 they have in perfection. This canton abounds with game of 
 every kind. In the environs of Arta are some grottos and 
 caverns, which might agreeably employ the naturalist in philoso- 
 phical researches. 
 
 Arta is surrounded by country houses, where the nobles of 
 the island pass the summer. The stranger is received with a 
 frankness and good nature, rare even among those people, who 
 boast most of their hospitality, and who fancy they possess a 
 superior degree of civilization. There is a mountain that com- 
 mands a prospect of the whole village, and from which may be 
 seen the sea, in five different directions : on the top of this moun- 
 tain is a small hermitage, taken care of by a devout old woman; 
 .she shewed us an antique statue of the Holy Virgin, of which she 
 related some prodigious miracles; the walls bore many testimonies 
 of its efficacy, and of the gratitude of the islanders, who had 
 been restored to health by their faith in the powers of this image. 
 J went over the ruins of an old castle, which formerly belonged to 
 the Moors; a part of which had served to form the hermitage 
 I had just quitted. There only remained a walled enclosure, and 
 somesubterraneousapartments, the entrances of which are almost 
 choaked up with heaps of stones. From thence I went to a 
 convent of Franciscan monks. I was attended by one of them, 
 who, like the old woman at the hermitage, related miracles per- 
 formed by every statue of a saint, with which the church was
 
 34 st. sauveur's TRAVELS. 
 
 ornamented. The library was the last thing he shewed, and at 
 my request, and on this occasion he told truth, for he assured 
 me that I should rind nothing curious ; in fact there was only a 
 heap of old Spanish books, bound in parchment. 1 opened seve- 
 ral of them ; they were ou theological subjects. Just as 1 was 
 leaving this library, my conductor stopped me, and made me 
 observe about half a dozen helmets and some armour, which 
 were placed on the upper shelves ; the distance and the darkness 
 of the place, prevented me from forming a judgment of them ; 
 and desirous to make some interesting discovery, I entertained 
 hopes that they might be remains of armour, which formerly had 
 belonged to the ancestors of the Major cans. The monk cor- 
 rected my error, by telling me that what 1 had observed with so 
 much attention was the work of his own hands, and made 
 use of to dress some children on the days of procession. These 
 helmets, bucklers, and cuirasses, in fact were nothing but paste- 
 board covered with paper, which by dust and time had acquired 
 tlie appearance of age, that caused my mistake. 
 
 A short distance to the east of Arta, is the castle of Pera, 
 built oil the top of a small mountain, about the third of a league 
 from Cape Pera ; it is only an enclosure of walls with battle- 
 ments, furnished with three or four pieces of artillery. This 
 miserable castle overlooks some poor habitations built on the 
 declivity of the mountain. 
 
 Leaving the mountainous lands of Arta we reach a large plain, 
 which extends as far as the shore of the bay of Alcudia : in this 
 plain, and a little distance from the sea, are the villages Saint- 
 Marguerite, Muro, Peubla, and Campanet; the number of 
 people inhabiting this canton, is about 10,000 ; corn, honey, 
 hemp, oil, carroubs, with the flocks and herds of large and small 
 cattle, compose the wealth of the inhabitants. The gardens also 
 produce great quantities of fruits and vegetables. The melons 
 and citrons of Peubla, are remarkable for their size and quality. 
 In the neighbourhood of Muro, is a quarry of excellent stones 
 for building; as there is also in the environs of Pelanix. ^icar 
 St. Marguerite are found a number of tombs, which are said to 
 be as ancient as the time of the Romans. 
 
 I remarked a particular taste in the construction of the public 
 edifices and churches of these village ; the largest and iipest 
 of which is that of Peubla. 
 
 A little to the S. VV. of Campanet, is Selva Inca, Beninsalem, 
 and Sansellas; these villages are in the most fertile part of the 
 island. The inhabitants amount to about 1 1,000 persons; they 
 are in general in good circumstances; they have a considerable 
 quantity of corn, wine, oil, carroubs, almonds, and fruits oi* every
 
 VILLAGES IN MAJORCA. ']j5 
 
 Iviiid, with some silk : they keep flocks and herds of cattle, which 
 are sufficient for their consumption, and the labours of hus- 
 bandry. 
 
 The situation of Selva is very pleasant, surrounded by hills 
 covered with trees ; this village presents a perspective as cheer- 
 ful as varied : water is found in abundance, and contributes much 
 to the fertility of the country. 
 
 They assert that [nca was founded in the time of the Romans ; 
 and ruins are found in the vicinity, which leave no doubt of its 
 antiquity. 
 
 Sansellas is also said to be one of the parts of the island 
 which was first inhabited : the situation of this village is not less 
 picturesque than that of Selva. 
 
 The canton of Beninsalem is one of the richest of the island 
 in wines ; the quality of which is in much esteem. The village is 
 also well built and handsome ; the houses are convenient, and 
 kept with great neatness. In the neighbourhood of Beninsalem 
 there is a quarry of red marble, with which the inhabitants have 
 beautified their church. This edifice is one of the finest in the 
 island. 
 
 It is but a short distance from Sansellas to Sineu : this village 
 existed in the time of the Romans. Under the kings of Majorca, 
 it was one of the most flourishing in the island. These priitces 
 had at this place a castle,where they resided several months in the 
 year. The population of Sineu does not exceed 4000 personal; 
 the produce consists of corn, wine, and vegetables ; the inha- 
 bitants have also some flocks, but they are not very numerous. 
 
 Sainte-Marie is a small village not far from Sineu ; it has but 
 £000 inhabitants. The lands produce a smali quantity of corn, 
 fr«it, almonds, and wine ; but the oils are the principal article. 
 
 In the road to Alcudia, from St. Marie, we pass very near 
 a large morass, called the Abufera, situated near the sea shore. 
 This pond, the property of a noble of Palma, is the chief 
 wealth of the canton: it abounds with aquatic fowl, and in 
 its waters they catch a considerable quantity of fish, particularly 
 eels, of an enormous size. Unfortunately these advantages 
 do not make amends for the unwholesome exhalations which 
 infect the air, and occasion distempers very difficult to cure. 
 
 This part of the island is deserted, and great part of the 
 land uncultivated. The Abufera is thought to be the chief 
 cause of the. depopulation of the town of Alcudia, which is in 
 its vicinity. I do not think the draining of this pond would be 
 attended with any great difficulty, or require any very consi- 
 derable expenditure : th« waters might easily be made to pass 
 into the *ea ; and, once dried up, this place might be used for
 
 16 st. sauvf.ur's travels. 
 
 the purposes of agriculture, and its extent is large enough to 
 compensate by its produce the loss of the fishery. At any 
 rate, it would be very easy to lessen the malignity of the waters 
 of this morass, by clearing away the iilth. The weeds, which 
 stagnate, addea to the bad quality of the mud and slime, occa- 
 sion unwholesome qualities. 
 
 At the distance of something more than two miles from the 
 Abufera, on the side of a hill, is the town of Alcudia, between 
 two large bays, which can receive ships of any burthen. Al- 
 cudia is said to be the part of the island which was first in- 
 habited : the situation of this town, at two miles from the 
 sea, may be considered as a proof of this assertion. In those 
 early ages, the art of fortification was but little known ; they 
 only had an enclosure of walls, flanked with a few towers. 
 Their chief strength was in the situation ; thus they prefered 
 mountainous places, and such as Avere difficult of access from 
 the sea ; they therefore settled some distance from the shore. 
 These precautious were sufficient protection from a coup-de- 
 maht. Alcudia has always acted a principal part in the events 
 which compose the history of Majorca. This city has for a 
 long time disputed with Palma the title of the capital of the 
 the island. Alcudia was in the reign of Jayme the Second, in 
 1500, in a very flourishing state : in 1523, the emperor Charles 
 the Fifth rewarded its citizxns for their zeal by the title of Most 
 Faithful. Alcudia at present appears to be only a poor place, 
 with most of the houses falling into ruins. The ancient 
 wall yet remains, but would not be any defence. This city is 
 the residence of a invalid colonel, who has the government 
 of it ; the garrison consists of about thirty foot soldiers ; a 
 piquet of cavalry does the ordinary duty ; conveys the reports to 
 the captain general, and the orders he sends in answer. 
 
 There is not any spring of water in the neighbourhood of 
 Alcudia ; and the inhabitants, whose number is now reduced 
 to about 800, are supplied only from cisterns. The culture of 
 the lands is in a languishing state, and the produce is confined 
 to a little com, with some fruits and vegetables. The sheep 
 produce a very fine wool. 
 
 There is, on the declivity of a small hill, towards the isthmus 
 which divides the two bays, a chapel dedicated to Our Lady 
 of the Victory. Near this place, from the top of a steep rock, 
 one may see the prospect of all the eastern coast of the island 
 of Minorca, and most part of Majorca ; on this rock is a signal 
 tower. A little lower, and almost on the sea shore, is another 
 pointed rock ; on the summit is a piece of artillery : this rock is 
 of a curious shape : it is called la Eoxa.
 
 BUILDINGS AT POLLENZA; 17 
 
 Leaving this territory, which is equally barren and urtwhole* 
 some, and going to the VV. N.W. we are made amends by the 
 sight of the village Pollenza : it is situated a short league from 
 the sea, in a plain sheltered to the north by lofty hills ; the soil 
 is fruitful and well watered. The foundation of Pollenza is 
 dated as far back as the time of the Romans : this village, which 
 is the largest and one of the handsomest in the island, contains 
 near 6000 inhabitants. It produces chiefly oils and wool : the 
 wine of Polenza, called Montona, is in great esteem. The 
 houses, though not grand, have every requisite convenience, and 
 denote the opulence of the people who inhabit them. The 
 parish church is built in a good stile of architecture, although 
 simple. The Dominicans have here a tolerably handsome con- 
 vent. The most remarkable edifice is the church, which was 
 built by the Jesuits two years before their expulsion ; it is thought 
 to be one of the handsomest in the the island ; the convent has 
 hot been finished. It would make a college for the education of 
 youth. There is also at Pollenza, a military hospital for the 
 troops which are stationed in this part of the island. Near the 
 village is a little solitary eminence, on the top of which is a 
 chapel dedicated to the Holy Virgin ; there was also a convent 
 of nuns, which has been demolished. In the southern part 
 are the ruins of an old castle, called the Castle of Pollenza. If 
 curiosity lead any stranger thither, he must expect to endure 
 the tedious recital of the prodigies of valour performed by the 
 Majorcans in defending this fort against the Moors. 
 
 Following the chain of mountains which protects the island 
 from the winds of the north, we descend into a valley where 
 there is a large collegiate church, called Lluch. Pope Alexan- 
 der granted to its chapter the title of Canons of St. Peter. The 
 ecclesiastics, and the other inhabitants of this collegiate, are 
 reckoned at about 400 persons. Its wealth consists of oils and 
 flocks. The hills which surround the valley are covered with 
 trees, and have many good springs of water. The church, con- 
 secrated to Notre-Dame de Lluch, is very handsome. 1 ob- 
 served some very beautiful marble pillars, which support the 
 roof ; the interior is lined with black marble, and adorned with 
 ornaments of jasper, which the island produces. There is at 
 Lluch an image of the Holy Virgin, which is held in great vene- 
 ration, and which they assure us was found in 1238, on the 
 spot where the church is built. This image, like many others, 
 has the gift of working miracles. It attracts many devotees, who 
 never fail to bring the customary offerings. 
 
 Passing over the mountains which surround the valley of 
 Notre-Dame de Lluch, and going to the south, we see the 
 ST. SAUVEUR-] <S
 
 18 ST. SAUVEUR's TRAVELS. 
 
 villages Alaro and Saint- Martial ; but they contain nothing 
 that can interest the curiosity of the traveller. The population 
 of Alaro may be about 2400 persons ; its produce consists of 
 oil, caroub?, and silk, and it maintains some flocks of small 
 cattle : there are here several springs, which serve to put in 
 motion the mills adjacent. Saint-Martial is only a hamlet, in- 
 habited by about 500 people ; the produce is various, and con- 
 sists of oil, grain, almonds, wine, and figs ; they have also some 
 flocks and herds, and there is a manufactory of earthen ware. 
 
 To the north of Saint-Martial is Bugnola, a village founded 
 as far back as the epoch of the conquest of the island by king 
 Jayme the First : it may contain about '2600 persons. A few 
 flocks of sheep, caroubs, but above all the oil, compose the 
 riches of this place ; there is also some wood proper for 
 building. 
 
 When travellers arrive as far as the foot of the mountains of 
 Tlufabia, it is customary to stop at a house, which, according 
 to the tradition of the country, stands on the spot where was 
 formerly a pleasure seat that belonged to the Moorish kings. 
 The gardener is very attentive to travellers, shewing them every 
 thing worthy observation, particularly the different fountains 
 which play in various fanciful representations. TKe Majorcans 
 are fond of these bagatelles. What surprised me most, is the 
 vraot of taste of the proprietor of this spot, winch by its situa- 
 tion, and the springs of water which abound there, might be 
 easily made a most delightful residence. 
 
 We have to pass over some very lofty mountains in our way 
 from Eufabia to Soler ; we go this road with mules ; but the 
 road is wide, and the declivity not being very steep, might be 
 easily made proper for carriages. This short road is exceedingly 
 delightful ; the various prospects seen from the mountains charm 
 the eye in every direction. On our descent we enter the valley 
 of Soler. It is three leagues and a half in circumference, and 
 forms a kind of bason, surrounded by mountains, which are 
 covered with clumps of olive trees. 
 
 The whole plain is planted with orange and lemon trees, and 
 watered by numerous rivulets, which unite together in one 
 stream near the village, which it crosses, and ruus into the sea 
 at the port of Palm. The valley of Soler, seen from tli« top 
 of the mountains, presents the spectacle of a forest of trees al- 
 ways green. The fecundity of the soil in this part of the island, 
 is astonishing ; the smallest garden produces an abundance that 
 is almost incredible. The inhabitants amount to about 6000 in 
 number ; their wealth consists of oil, caroubs, and silk ; but 
 above all, a prodigious quantity of oranges and lemons of a very
 
 MONASTERY OF CHARTREUX. 19 
 
 superior quality : these last are the most considerable articles of 
 the commerce of the Majorcans with Languedoc and Roussil- 
 lon, which now make the departments of Herault and the 
 eastern Pyrenees. The village of Soler is well built, and is 
 one of the handsomest in the island ; but, nevertheless, it has 
 nothing particularly worthy of attention. The first subject with 
 which the Majorcans entertain a stranger on his arrival, is the 
 valley of Soler ; of which they speak with so much pleasure, 
 and with such particular emphasis, that it rouses the curiosity 
 of the traveller, who is pressed to go and enjoy the wonders of 
 which he has just heard the description, and certainly this place 
 has every beauty that art, added to the bounties of nature, ^an 
 present ; in short, the whole valley consists of the most <n« 
 chanting gardens. We return, after having admired the richness 
 of the soil, and the delightful scenery, with considerable regr<t, 
 that the inhabitants have not better profited by its luxuriances. 
 
 Two leagues distant from Soler to the N. J N. E. is the vil- 
 lage Valdemusa, situated on the declivity of a hill : this little 
 mountain joins to several others, which surround a deep valley in 
 the shape of a tunnel ; all these hills are covered with fruit trees, 
 from which is derived the principal wealth of the inhabitants. 
 
 Valdemusa is ill built ; the streets are very inconvenient, from 
 their extreme declivity, and the badness of the pavement, which 
 is composed of rough flints. 
 
 The population of this village amounts to above 1200. Be- 
 sides a considerable quantity of fruit and vegetables, the lands 
 produce a small quantity of oil, some caroubs, and some silk ; 
 they have also some flocks of sheep and goats. Valdemusa is 
 celebrated for being the birth-place of the fortunate Catharine 
 Tomasa, who is remembered with such veueration throughout 
 the island. 
 
 To the north of this village, is a convent of Chartreux. I 
 visited this monastery, which contains about fifty monks ; it is 
 very large: the handsomest part is the new cloister, but tbjere is 
 only one side of it finished. Each monk has a small apartment, 
 consisting of three parts, and a garden, which he cultivates for 
 his amusement. Every necessary of food and raiment is found 
 in this convent : the lands which surround it produce com, wine, 
 oil, fruit, and vegetables ; and, in the interior, they manufacture 
 the stuffs with which the monks are clothed. This monastery 
 (like all those of the same order) is very rich : the monks are 
 very charitable to the poor families in Valdemusa. Strangers 
 may stay in this Chartreux three days, where they are, lodged 
 and treated with much attention. There is, near the body of 
 the house, vvhich is inhabited by the monks, a building, where- 
 
 c 2
 
 20 ST. sautiur's travels. 
 
 in are kept all the comforts and conveniences necessary to hos* 
 pitajity. 
 
 About a league from Valdemusa, among the mountains, are 
 several small chapels, the duty of which is done by hermits, who 
 live separately and retired in huts, which they build themselves. 
 These recluse men live on alms; they are frequently visited by 
 the devotees of the island, by whom they are greatly respected. 
 This place is called the Hermitage of Sainte-Marie, and the 
 recluse exercise a kind of jurisdiction over all other hermits in 
 the different parts of the island ; they are clothed almost like 
 the Capuchins ; and are said to live very austerely. 
 
 Going along the north coast to the west, we come to the vil- 
 lage Bagnafura, which is situated on a mountain, of which the 
 part that looks to the sea forms a very steep declivity to the 
 beach. From the summit to the foot this mountain is cut in 
 stairs ; each of the steps are supported by little walls made of 
 dry stones. It is planted all over with vines, which, from the 
 sea, have a beautiful appearance. At the time of the vintage, 
 this mountain, covered with the peasantry of both sexes, presents 
 a most animated picture, The population of Bagnabufar does 
 not exceed 5 or 600 persons ; the inhabitants are mostly in good 
 circumstances, and live in great comfort : they have plenty of 
 oil and fruit ; but their chief wealth consists of wines of dif- 
 ferent qualities, which are much esteemed in the island. The 
 mountains abound with springs of water, used by the peasants 
 to wash and bleach their linen. 
 
 A little more to the west is a hamlet called Estellens. Turn* 
 Ing from thence to the S. S. W. at the distance of about three 
 leagues, is Andraig, a well-built village, containing about 4000 
 people. The inhabitants practise navigation, and thus make up 
 for the poverty of their canton, which only produces oil. This 
 is the most infertile part of the island. Andraig is not much 
 more than a league distant from the sea shore. The harbour is 
 only proper for small craft : it is very safe, and runs in shore 
 near two miles. The road from the village to the port is tire- 
 some, uneven, and full of loose stones. 
 
 Among the northern mountains, about four or five leagues 
 from Palma, is the source of a kind of river, called la Kierra ; 
 it is almost dry during great part of the year ; but in the rainy 
 season it becomes very full, and extremely rapid, and often does 
 considerable damage. La Kierra empties itself -kito the sea, 
 nuder the ramparts of the city of Palma. In the year 1403, the 
 water increasen so rapidly, that J 600 houses were carried away, 
 and 5.500 people were drowned, fn 1408, its ravages were 
 ^renewed. The years 1444, 1618, and 1635, were also marked.
 
 POPULATION OF MAJORCA. 21 
 
 by similar disasters ; the waters overflowed and in undated all 
 the country, and even in the city, they rose to the height of four 
 feet, running into the sea, by the mole of the port. 
 
 Not far from the source of this river, is a village called 
 Puigpugnent ; it is situated in a large valley, covered with olive 
 and other fruit trees. The produce of this orchard, joined to 
 that of some flocks of cattle, and a small quantity of silk, make 
 the wealth of the inhabitants, whose numbers maybe about 
 1200. The houses of Puigpugnent are separate, and situated a 
 good space one from the other. 
 
 A short distance from this village on the road to Palma, is 
 another, called Calvia ; the number of inhabitants is from 12 to 
 1300 ; the situation is hilly, and fruitful in oil, grain, and ca- 
 roubs. The people of this canton are chiefly shepherds, and 
 the flocks make their principal revenue. Calvia is near the 
 small port of Paqura, where the king don Jayme the conqueror, 
 landed in the year 1229. Don i\lphonso, and don Pedro, 
 also made choice of this place to land their troops. 
 
 Near to Calvia, on the sea shore is Deya, a village of little 
 note, containing about 500 inhabitants, who like those of Cal- 
 via, employ themselves in feeding their flocks and swine ; these 
 animals rove at liberty in the underwoods which covers the can- 
 ton. They have likewise some small quantity of oil. 
 
 The roads in the interior of the island are in a bad state, from 
 not being kept in repair ; this negligence is a sensible prejudice 
 to the progress of agriculture, and to the activity of commerce, 
 every article to be conveyed to the sea shore, must be carried on 
 the back of a mule, or on carts of a clumsy workmanship, and 
 which can travel but slowly. 
 
 The whole population of Majorca, amounts to about 
 136,000 inhabitants. Palma, the capital, contains 33,000. Of 
 these, 136,000, they reckon 52,000 women, and 27,000 chil- 
 dren ; of the 33,000 inhabitants of the capital, 14,000 are 
 women, and 5,108 children ; deducting from the total of the 
 population of the island, the women and children, there re- 
 mains 57,000 inhabitants. In this calculation the aged and 
 infirm are not reckoned, the number of whom is said to be 
 14,250; 42,750, is the number of those of age and strength 
 sufficient for the culture of the lands, the navigation and defence 
 of the island. This number of effective men, is still reduced 
 by the ecclesiastics, who amount to 2,035, 1002 of whom 
 are monks. Thus Majorca, has but 40,695 men capable of 
 labour. From the number of 52,000 women, must be deducted 
 1,204, of whom 600 are nuns, and of course devoted to celi- 
 bacy ; and 604 also devoted to celibacy, but voluntarily dedi-
 
 gg ST. SACVEUBS TRAVELS. 
 
 eating themselves to an honourable and useful service in the dif- 
 ferent charitable establishments. 
 
 Might there not be added to the number of these women who 
 do not encrease the population, those who giving way to their 
 passions, are at once lost to society by idleness, which is always 
 dangerous, and by that sterility, which is a consequence, or ra- 
 ther punishment of debauchery. In a climate such as Majorca, 
 and under a government where the sex is almost authorized in 
 its deviations, by an indulgence carried much too far, to what 
 number would the calculation amount ? The mind refuses to 
 enter into such humiliating and painful investigations. For my 
 part, I had rather turn my thoughts to those happier times, when 
 Majorca was not yet subjected to a licentious depravity, so fatal 
 to population, and to the good of society. The Majorcans have 
 not always been incapable of conquering their passions, or of re- 
 sisting the power of avarice. It is in the city, the abode of 
 the greatest number of foreigners, that this shameful liber- 
 tinism, mostly prevails. In the country in general, the females are 
 virtuous, modest, and of pure morals. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 CLIMATE — QUALITIES OF THE SOIL — CULTURE AND THE 
 PRODUCTIONS OF THE LANDS. 
 
 X HE climate of Majorca is temperate, and the mountains 
 which surround the island, protect it from the north winds ; 
 nevertheless they are some time visited by one of these, which 
 descending from the mountains occasions a cold atmosphere in 
 the plain, and at times does considerable damage ; tearing up 
 by the roots, and carrying away great part of the olive trees, 
 with which the hills are covered. In the summer the sea 
 breezes allay the extreme heat. The climate of Majorca va- 
 ries with the different situations. In the month of August the 
 inhabitant of the mountain feels not the inconvenience of the 
 excessive heat of other regions ; the islander who lives on 
 the eastern borders, on the contrary experiences but little of 
 the cold during the winter. The intermediate valleys do not 
 owe their temperature to the coolness of the streams, for there 
 are none in the island, but to the vicinity of the monntains, the 
 chain of which extends to the East, the North and to the W«st,.
 
 NATURAL STATE OF MAJORCA. 23 
 
 and even stretches into the interior of the lands. Some of these 
 mountains are very lofty : such as those of Pug-major, and Ga- 
 latzo, on whose summits the air is often pure and serene, when 
 at the same time the rest of the island is covered with clouds. 
 The air passing through the kind of canals which are formed by 
 these mountains, becomes rarified, and is cooled by the light 
 winds, which carry it to the inhabitants of the valleys. The 
 natural productions of the island are perfect thermometers, that 
 tell the qualities of the climate, and which never deceive ; let 
 us extend our observations over the whole island of Majorca, we 
 shall see it adorned with woods of odoriferous orange trees, the 
 fruits of which are every where esteemed, and are not inferior to 
 those of Malta and Portugal, and which have obtained it the 
 title of the golden island. Here the eye beholds lofy palm- 
 trees : there the caroub tree, which bids defiance to the severity 
 of the winter, and presents from the beginning of August, a 
 fruit ripened to perfection. Towards the end of June, the vine 
 is loaded with clustres of grapes of exquisite sweetness and 
 flavor ; the finest cotton is here produced, as also the plan- 
 tain, that wonderful production of nature, whose fruit feeds the 
 poor Indian, whose bark furnishes him with domestic utensils, 
 both convenient and elegant, with the leaves of which he co- 
 vers his humble habitation, and which protects him from the heat 
 of the sun. The plantain, which is found in many gardens at 
 Palma, is the same described by Salmon in his History of the 
 World, written in Italian, and Father Gumilla's History of Groo- 
 noka. 
 
 It is true the Majorcans do not possess the fruit of the plan- 
 tain, bHt this tree growing naturally in the island, is no small 
 proof of the excellence of the climate. It is from the tempe- 
 rature of the Baleares, that Strabo named them the fortunate 
 islands. 
 
 In the northern part of the island of Majorca, the whole of 
 the coast is lined with high and inaccessible rocks. To the East 
 and South it spreads into plains, and has numerous ports and an- 
 chorages. Thus the island may be divided into two parts : the 
 plains and the mountains. On the last, the soil is of a reddish 
 Colour, and mixed with stones, nevertheless it is very fertile. 
 All these mountains are covered with treej from the top to the 
 bottom ; some of them are proper for building. The wild 
 olive-trees are very hardy and numerous ; the islander profits as 
 much as he can by this bounty of nature ; he grafts, cultivates, 
 and indeed uses all carS and attention,, to preserve these va- 
 luable trees. To prevent their being torn up by the roots, and 
 carried away by the torrents, which at times precipitate from the
 
 24 St; SAUVEUR's TRAVELS. 
 
 mountains, lie protects each tree with a little wall of dry stone, 
 which supports the lands and leaves the water a free course ; 
 all these little ramparts have a passage between them for the pur- 
 pose, sufficiently wide ; we may reckon more than thirty of 
 these walls, one above another, forming a kind of amphi- 
 theatre, which has a very pretty effect, and gives at the same 
 time an idea of the labour, industry and patience of the cul- 
 tivator. 
 
 In the chain of mountains of Majorca, may be distinguished 
 those of Torelfa and Galatzo, entirely covered with trees, 
 chiefly olives and green oaks ; among these last are some of an 
 astonishing size; there are also many others fit for carpen- 
 ter's work, and firs which serve for the building of small 
 vessels. 
 
 At the time of the last expedition of the Spaniards against 
 Algiers, they had from hence, wood, to build thirty seven 
 bombs and armed vessels. 
 
 The soil of the plains is not so fertile as that of the moun- 
 tains ; in many places it is vc/y much sunk, so that in the times 
 of abundant rains, the water lays on the ground till the seed pe- 
 rishes ; even in favourable seasons the crops are always weak in 
 these cantons of the island, but many parts of the plain seem 
 to be very proper for m«adows, or grazing lands. There is here 
 found in abundance a kind of jonquil, of which the laige cattle 
 are very fond, and particularly the horses ; there are also great 
 quantities of angelica and wild celery ; these two plants so 
 much sought after, and which produce so much in other places, 
 were here, a few years back, of no value, the islanders neglected 
 or did not know the means of making their cultivation an ad- 
 vantage ; a Frenchman has profited by their carelessness or igno- 
 rance. 
 
 The island is watered only by the springs which comes from 
 the midst of the mountains; but at those seasons when the snow 
 melts which covered the summits of the mountains, and when 
 the rains are heavy and of long duration, these streams run 
 down in torrents, attended with danger, more than equal to the 
 utility. 
 
 Majorca has many deep holes in the earth, dry pits hollowed 
 by nature, which assisting the explosion of the inflammable air, 
 contribute to prevent earthquakes ; in fact there is here no re- 
 membrance of any such event. 
 
 Within these few years, there has been discovered in several 
 places, a vein of pit-coal ; some individuals united in the inten- 
 tion of undertaking the work. But the labour presented such a 
 prospect of expence, greatly above the means of the society, that
 
 STONE QUARRIES AT MAJORCA. 25 
 
 it was given up ; in fact it could never succeed without the as- 
 sistance and protection of the government. 
 
 It has been said by some, that veins have been found, indica- 
 tive of mines of gold and silver, and that minium, or red lead 
 of a superior quality, had been discovered, as also mercury. 
 These reports, however, are not believed, and the number of the 
 islanders who appear to give them any credit, is confined to a 
 few old men, who are fond of wonderful stories. 
 
 I was also assured, that in the mountains of Majorca, there were 
 found granite, garnets, agate, jasper, and porphyry ; but I saw 
 none of them, and I believe these discoveries may be ranked 
 with those of the gold and silver mines. 
 
 I saw at the convent of the capuchins, a very large window, 
 the only one which there was in the chuir, composed of panes of 
 a kind of transparent stone, which the friars told me was 
 brought from Bagnabufar ; but I know that it came from 
 Valencia. 
 
 At Andraig, Puigpugnent, Bagnabufar, and Bugnola, is 
 found marble, 'hat is speckled with red and white. 
 
 At Alaro is extracted a kind of marble, which they call 
 amandrado, from the form of the shades, which resemble al- 
 monds ; it is black and white. Although it is common j it is 
 much valued. 
 
 The islanders make use of these marbles in the decoration of 
 the churches, and the gates of the houses belonging to the 
 rich. 
 
 Beninsalem furnishes flat square stones, with which the 
 churches and houses are paved. 
 
 From Bagnabufar, is brought free stone ; from Arta and Ma- 
 nacor, mill stones ; at Estellences is often found stones with a 
 very sharp edge. 
 
 The sandy stone which is used for building, is common at 
 IJuch-Major, and at Santaqui ; it is proper for fortifications, 
 as it is not liable to crack. It is of this that the ramparts at 
 Palma are built. 
 
 In many parts of the island slate is found, but the islanders 
 make no use of it. 
 
 At Arta and Estellenchs, are some grottos, where the va- 
 riety of the stalactites amuse and interest the observer with the 
 sportiveness of nature. 
 
 Fire-stone is very common in the island of Majorca, and al- 
 most every where there is plenty of a sort of white lime, or 
 plaster, which is much in esteem. 
 
 In general the stony part of the mountains is composed of 
 ST. SAUVEUR.] D
 
 2(5 ST. sauveur's travels. 
 
 mixed stones, formed of chalky, vitrifiable, and refractory 
 purts. 
 
 In the vicinity of Campos, are situated some salt-pits, which 
 they do not make so profitable as they might. 
 
 If they were attended to with more care, and some money 
 were expended in the work, they would not only be sufficient for 
 the consumption in the island, but that there would be a consi- 
 derable overplus for exportation. 
 
 There is no doubt but that the island of Majorca presents a 
 large field for the researches of the botanist. It affords sim- 
 ples, and plants of every kind ; and probably there might be dis- 
 covered among them some new ones, or such as are scarce in 
 other places, or at least but little known. I distinguished the 
 Hypericon Balearicum, a kind of myrtle, of which the islanders 
 make but little use. The socotorine aloe of Majorca is much 
 esteemed, and the angelica and hemlock are much finer than in 
 any other place. 
 
 As for the mineral waters, I only saw one spring, near Cam- 
 pos, it is called the fountain of St. Johu ; the water appears to 
 me to be strongly impregnated with sulphur; it is warm, and 
 the inhabitants use it for curing cutaneous distempers. 
 
 There are very few venomous reptiles in the island of Ma- 
 jorca. 
 
 There is nothing particular in the birds and quadrupeds, nor 
 did I observe any thing remarkable in the different kinds offish. 
 The island of Majorca, is, without contradiction, one of those 
 most favoured by nature, being so advantageously situated be- 
 tween Europe and Africa, the temperature of the climate, and 
 the quality of the soil, insure to the inhabitants the blessings of 
 abundance ; nevertheless agriculture is far from that degree of 
 perfection, attained to in other countries. One is at first struck 
 with their imperfect manner of culture, but the astonishment 
 ceases, on calculating the population and extent of the surface of 
 the island, and on observing the manner in which the lands are 
 divided and managed. I have followed the husbandman in his 
 labours with an attentive eye, and observed his customs and 
 prejudices. 
 
 In an account given to the supreme council ©f finances at 
 Madrid, the suiface of the island of Majorca is estimated to 
 be 1234 square miles. The whole population \~ but 136,000 
 souls, nevertheless the produce of corn is insufficient, and the re is 
 some imported, at least iO.OOO fanques every year. The fan- 
 que is a Spanish measure, containing twenty-five pounds, of 
 sixteen ounces to the pound. 
 
 This deficiency in the article of corn, far from diminishing,
 
 AGRICULTURE OP THE M.A JORC AJJS. 27 
 
 seems to increase progressively. There is no doubt but that the 
 lands which are situated at the foot of the mountains, or in the 
 vicinity of torrents, must lose much of their sat and vegetable 
 succulency, and experience a sensible deterioration, from the ef- 
 fect of the abundant rains, and the inundations of the torrents. 
 To these physical causes, may be added those which arise from 
 the want of information, means, and activity of the husband- 
 man. 
 
 In the district dependant on Palma, the capital, are some fields 
 or rather muddy lands, which are entirely uncultivated. There 
 are also other lands of the same kind, and in the same neglected 
 state, in the districts of Andraig, Calvia, Campos, Santagni, Pe- 
 tra, Muro, Peubla, Alcudia, and Pollenza : the natural fertility 
 of the soil, nevertheless promises to reward the. labours of the 
 industrious husbandman ; the little which has been sown has 
 produced in a ratio of forty to one. What a resource for the 
 islander, and with what ease might he free himself from the tax, 
 which he annually pays to the states of Barbary, to make up 
 the deficiency of corn. 
 
 This hope w not founded on a false calculation ; its possibility 
 may be known, by casting the eyes around on other portions of 
 land in the neighbourhood of Arta and Manacor, which are pro- 
 per for the cultivation of corn, and which are nevertheless al- 
 most entirely neglected, and where, at least for two years succes- 
 sively, no labour has been done. 
 
 The draining of the inundated lands is easy, and shews itself 
 to be so, by the tendency of the waters to the sea, and their vi- 
 cinity to the beach. 
 
 The Majorcan farmer is uninformed, or at most knows but 
 little of the improvements in agriculture practised by strangers. 
 His instruments of tillage are defective ; the plough without 
 wheels, is only composed of a long piece of wood, at the bot- 
 tom of which is fixed the share, and at the other extremity is 
 placed the heavy yoke ; they commonly make use of mules, 
 and even asses are employed to dnlw the plough. These ani- 
 mals are put to, in the same manner as oxen, which are also 
 used in some parts of the island ; the yoke rests on the shoulders. 
 This method of putting to the cattle, takes away from their 
 strength; the labourer is obliged alternatively to raise and push 
 down the ploughshare ; the furrows are consequently of little 
 depth, and the land seems rather raked than ploughed. 
 
 To manure the lands, the Majorcans make use of the dung of 
 the cattle, and the dirt of the streets, but they have not a sufficient 
 quantity, considering the extent of the soil ; sometimes there are 
 pieces of land barren for want of dunging. They also make use 
 
 o2
 
 28 ST. sauveuk's travels. 
 
 of sea-weed, miked with marl ; but this is only in those dis- 
 tricts that are near the sea-shore. Many of the peasants believe 
 that when the rains are very heavy, just after the sowing season, 
 the grain rots in the earth ; but this cannot be, except in those 
 low lands, where the water remains a length of time. Accord- 
 ing to this idea, they sow the land afresh, and the first sowing, 
 beginning to sprout, is choaked as it were, and weakened by the 
 second seed ; the consequence is, that the blade is weak, and 
 the ear not filled. The Majorcan neglects, oris little informed 
 of the means of destroying the worms which eat the seed, or of 
 preserving the corn from distemper. 
 
 The culture of maize, or of Turkey corn, is very little thought 
 of ; it would be of great advantage, when there was a want of 
 other grain. 
 
 For a number of years, the islanders have made it their 
 chief care, to encrease the number of their fruit trees. This 
 part of rival economy might be carried still farther, without in- 
 fringing on the lands proper for corn. It is thought that 
 near a twentieth part of the surface of the island might yet be 
 planted. Above all, the mulberry trees come to great perfection ; 
 the produce- of silk is considerably increased, and, besides the 
 consumption of the islanders, furnishes a new article for com- 
 merce and exportation. Theculture of the mulberry trees is en- 
 couraged by the government, which has exempted the silks from 
 every duty in going out of the island. Nevertheless this favour 
 does not seem to induce the Majoi cans to make new plantations; 
 numbers of them are persuaded, that the climate is not favorable 
 to the propagation of silk-worms ; it would be easy to conviuce 
 them, that tljis opinion is erroneous. 
 
 As for me, 1 think their indifference for this interesting 
 branch of industry, is only the result of their ignorance of the 
 culture of the mulberry tree, aud of the necessary care of the silk 
 worms. 
 
 The almond is, doubtless, one of the most useful trees to 
 the Majorcans ; the leaves serve to feed the cattle ; the green 
 bark burnt, is excellent for the manufacture of soap; the dried 
 bark is used for fuel. The ashes of the green bark are calculated 
 at 8 p. £ of the value of the almond itself. They also obtain 
 from the almond tree, some small quantity of gum, which is 
 sent to Barcelona. The number of thc-e trees is considerable, 
 and encreases greatly; it is thought they might still be in- 
 creased one-third. 
 
 The fig-tree seems to be indigenous to the island ; the climate 
 is very favourable, and it grows every where, almost without any 
 trouble ; the fruit is a chief article of food to those islanders,
 
 VEGETATIOK 01- MAJORCA. 29 
 
 who are poor. The crop of figs amounts annually to 12,000 
 quintals, and this quantity might certainly be tripled ; the culture 
 and increase of the fig-tree is encouraged by the exemption of all 
 duties on dried figs. 
 
 The quintal, or hundred weight, is estimated to be worth a 
 piaster ; thus, they would have a nett profit of 24,000 piasters, a 
 sum that would partly pay for the foreign corn that is im- 
 ported. 
 
 The number of those trees, which supply wood for the works 
 of the joiner, such as poplars, walnut-trees, cherry-trees, &.c. 
 decrease insensibly. Their number might be encreased with the 
 greatest facility, by making plantations of them, in the numerous 
 marshy places. The cantons of Soller and Esporlas would be 
 very proper for encreasing the number of these trees. 
 
 Orange and lemon-trees seem to be sufficiently cultivated, 
 though they might be brought to a greater degree of per- 
 fection. 
 
 The vine is also cultivated with care ; but it is nevertheless 
 true, that the Majorcans might much encrease the produce 
 by planting divers fallow grounds, that are only fit for 
 the vine. 
 
 The olive-trees, occupy at least one-third of the land of the 
 island ; although the culture of them is carefully attended to, yet 
 there are means of melioration, which the islanders neglect, or are 
 ignorant of; many of them do not know the proper time or man- 
 ner of pruning ; thus the extraneous branches absorb a part of 
 the vegetable succulence, and impoverish the tree. Neither has 
 the peasant the precaution of profiting by the rain, to form re- 
 servoirs to supply water for the olive trees ; and however ex- 
 perience may prove, that the more these trees are watered, the 
 more fruit they produce, yet in this particular they are indebted 
 to nature only. 
 
 The caper-trees furnish the Majorcans with an article of con- 
 sumption and exportation ; it comes to perfection in the most 
 sterile places ,• it takes root even on the walls, and it requires 
 scarcely any other care, than to protect it from the rigour of the 
 season in the winter. 
 
 Of fruits and vegetables there is abundance, but little variety ; 
 most of those cultivated in France, would succeed perfectly at 
 Majorca. 
 
 I have sometimes eaten excellent Beurre pears, Doyenne pears, 
 apples, and other fruits ; the plants of which had been brought 
 from France for a rich Majorcan, and which he cultivated for 
 his own use. I have seen some emigrant Frenchmen, who lire 
 here very comfortably, on the produce of a small garden, where
 
 SO ST. sauveur's travels. 
 
 ihey cultivate only such plants as are little known in the 
 island. 
 
 To carry agriculture to the degree of perfection, of which it is 
 capable in this island, the encouragement and assistance of the 
 sovereign is necessary ; for example, the draining of land, drowned 
 by the stagnant waters, is an undertaking greatly above the means 
 of an individual, who could never bear the expcnce of the work, 
 or the purchase of the necessary machines. 
 
 The want of carriage roads, in a country where there are no 
 navigable rivers to convey the commodities, is without contra- 
 diction, one of the great obstacles to the progress of agriculture. 
 Every thing from the interior of the island is carried on the 
 backs of mules, or ou carts of a very clumsy make ; these carls 
 are composed of a kind of floor with a heavy beam, to which is 
 fixed an ill-shaped axle tree ; to this are fastened two flat wheels, 
 formed of several pieces of wood, bound together with an iron 
 hoop, which is also studded with the clumsy heads of large 
 square nails. The axfe tree turns, but the wheels are fixed : in 
 the front of the cart, the beam forms a triangular space, where 
 the driver places himself: he can add at pleasure, two boards to 
 the sides of the cart ; the mules are fastened by the neck to an 
 enormous joke, very heavy, and as big as the cart. This yoke is 
 tied with a large rope to the beam, which for this purpose has at 
 the end two iron hooks above, and two strong pegs or pins un- 
 derneath ; the rope is crossed between these points of support 
 and stay. These heavy carts move with difficulty, and of course 
 go slowly ; their motion is attended with a deafening disagreeable 
 noise. The mules are so fastened, that, they cannot exert all 
 their strength, and are soon tired ; the driver is often obliged 
 to place himself between the two mules to assist them, leading 
 them by the bridle. When we behold these singular carrriages, 
 we cannot help thinking of the early ages of civilization. The 
 coaches are likewise of a make which may serve as an epoch in 
 the history of the Majorcans. 
 
 These defects are the consequences of the bad condition of 
 the roads ; a more convenient and lighter cart would be de- 
 stroyed in ways so rough and lull of stones and holes; for 
 though the Majorcan cart cannot carry any great weight, and 
 travels slowly, yet it has the advantage of being very strong, and 
 never overturns. The driver on the way often sleeps, without 
 any care, as he is sure of the mules, who are so fastened, that 
 they cannot wander from the road, as is often the case with our 
 shaft horses. 
 
 The disproportion of the population to the extent of the soil, 
 is another cause of the languishing state of agriculture. I have
 
 PRESENT STATE OF ALCUDIA. 31 
 
 endeavoured to give the most exact calculations of that of. Ma- 
 jorca ; and comparing the number of individuals who may be 
 employed in the cultivation of the lands, with the surface of the 
 island, the disproportion is soon acknowledged. Many of the 
 lands remain fallow for want of hands. The truth of this is sen- 
 sibly felt about Alcudia, the second city of the island. 
 
 It is generally said that the cause of the depopulation of this 
 canton, is the distemper occasioned by the air, which the exhala- 
 tions from the Abufcra render so very unwholesome. The 
 Abufera seems to have formerly been a small sea-port for light 
 vessels which drew but little water. There is still to be seen in 
 some parts of the borders of this nasty pool, some remains of 
 ancient construction, which seem to prove the truth of the con- 
 jecture. 
 
 By degrees this port became choaked up with the different 
 substances which the rains and waters brought with them iu their 
 course. Thus this port, neglected by the inhabitants, became 
 only a muddy morass. 
 
 1 thought 1 perceived, in the situation of the actual state of the 
 city of Alcudia, the true cause, or at least the chief cause, of its 
 depopulation. Alcudia is built on the declivity of a mountain, 
 two miles from the sea-shore ; in this situation it has neither 
 springs nor fountains ; the inhabitants therefore must drink the 
 water from their cisterns : the water becomes corrupted in most 
 of these reservoirs for want of being kept clean, not so much 
 from negligence as the want of hands. Every house has cellars 
 more or less deep and wide ; these places undergi ouud in the 
 time of great raius are subject to be rilled with water through 
 those air holes which are open even with the edge of the soil ; 
 the accumulated waters in these cellars insensibly undermine the 
 foundations and often occasion the houses to fall down iu a mo- 
 ment's time. 
 
 These cellars must inevitably emit unwholesome exhalations ; 
 and these inconveniences, added to the bad quality of the water, 
 which is drunk by the inhabitants of Alcudia, with food that is 
 not very good, appears to me to be the true cause of the distem- 
 pers, which are attributed to the Abufera. 
 
 I remarked that the inhabitants of the country about Alcudia, 
 even in the vicinity of the Abufera, were very healthy, while 
 those of the city shewed every symptom c f ill health, languor 
 and despondency. On entering this unfortunate place, we ap- 
 pear to be transported to the abodes of the dead : the houses 
 {>resent the spectacle of a mass of tombs, and the citizens look 
 ike spectres. There are not more than seven or eight hundred
 
 32 ST. sauveur's travels. 
 
 persons in Alcudia, and yet this city must have had a very nume- 
 rous population, at least if we may judge by the part it has 
 acted, in the course of the events which form the history of the 
 island ; and the Abufera, so pernicious at present, existed at the 
 time of those events. 
 
 The situation of Alcudia between the two finest and best 
 anchorages of the island, is so advantageous for commerce 
 and navigation, that it naturally creates the desire to profit by it, 
 by endeavouring to encrease the population of this unhappy can- 
 ton. They have therefore held out the inducements of a small 
 sum of money, a certain portion of land, and some of the unin- 
 habited houses, to whoever would go and settle at Alcudia ; 
 they deceived themselves by these measures, for it was evident 
 that no islander would leave the canton where he lived in com- 
 fort, to go to another where his best hope would be to vegetate 
 a long time before he could reap the fruits of his labour. These 
 encouragements then could only be applicable to strangers, and 
 few of those could be found in an island, where they are gene-' 
 rally seldom more than birds of passage, and chiefly consist of 
 sea-faring men, and where, as is the case throughout Spain, 
 the intolerance of religion is a constant check to the industry of 
 foreigners. The surest method would have been to have en- 
 tirely abandoned the city of Alcudia, and to have rebuilt it in 
 a situation nearer the point of the isthmus which separates the 
 two bays. One of the most efficacious methods to attract thither 
 new inhabitants, husbandmen, and consequently the collateral 
 circumstances which produce wealth to this part of the island, 
 would probably be to grant, at least for a certain number of 
 years, an exemption from duties on all merchandize entering or 
 going out of the bay of Alcudia. 
 
 If the hindrance to the progress of agriculture be an inevitable 
 consequeuces of a deficiency of population, the manner in which 
 this population is distributed and employed, appears to me to 
 be a cause no less fatal; in calculating the total number of the 
 inhabitants of the island, I make the deduction of those indivi- 
 duals who are lost to the cultivation of the lauds, and to the 
 encrease of population. 'To the brood of monks, nuns, and 
 priests, spread over the town and country, there must yet be 
 add* .1 a considerable number of young healthy people, who fill 
 the seminaries and cloisters ; some aspiring to a benefice, which 
 would give them the means of living in sloth, and others mis- 
 taking their indolence, and aversion to labour, for a divine in- 
 spiration. To this class 1 have yet to add another who are 
 equally lost, not to population, but to the labours of agriculture.
 
 MANAGEMENT Of LANDS. S$ 
 
 This is composed of a number of idle fellows dispersed in the 
 houses of the rich, whose whole employ 13 to display (by wear- 
 ing a shabby livery) not so much the opulence as the vanity of 
 their patrons. 
 
 Hie unequal division of the lands is another error, destruc- 
 tive to agriculture. It necessarily occasions a bad rural ad- 
 ministration ; a single family, and often a single individual, is in 
 ppssession of lands of very considerable extent. These lands, 
 however large, are not cultivated so as to make th^m of a proper 
 value, even to the proprietors themselves ; they live retired in the 
 city, and the former manage their estates. These last have only 
 their personal interest to direct them in their labours ; they 
 therefore endeavour to profit by the limited time of their lease ; 
 and their care is to draw from the land a produce above its 
 natural fertility : exhausting the strength of the soil does not con- 
 cern them, but the consequence is, that these lands remain a 
 long time afterwards without produce. Thus we see that in great 
 proprietorships, there is always considerable parcels of land 
 which remain fallow ; however, some proprietors have seen the 
 inconveniences of this ill judged management, and have divided 
 their large possessions in portions, which they have sold for life to 
 divers husbandmen. And these men, thus become proprietors, 
 have given their whole care to the melioration of the soil, which 
 enables them at their deaths, to leave to their children the 
 means of supplying their places, by new purchases. 
 
 The population in these cantons is increased in proportion to 
 the comforts enjeyed by the inhabitants who cultivate the 
 land. 
 
 I have it in my power to give a very striking example of this 
 truth. The land of Saria was a few years ago entirely in the 
 hands cf one family It was afterwards divided into small por- 
 tions ; and at this time one of these portions, which are calk \ 
 establishments, contains eight hundred inhabitants. The lands 
 which had been in an uncultivated state until the time of this 
 division, produced abundantly. The land of Santa-Ponca, 
 which remained in the hands of a single proprietor, produces but 
 little, and for the most part appears like an uncultivated desert. 
 
 To obtain from the culture of the lands all the advantages 
 which might be expected, it is necessary to enlighten the mind 
 of the husbaudman, to make him sensible of the defects of his 
 management, to combat and conquer his ancient habits, and to 
 subdue his prejudices, by setting before his eyes, the reiterated 
 proofs the utility and superiority of other methods of managing 
 the soil. It is to the conviction of this fact, that we are iudebt- 
 
 ST. SAUVEUR-] E
 
 34 St. SA.UVEUR S TltAVELS. 
 
 ed, for the establishments of societies of economy and agricul- 
 ture, in most of the cities of Spain, whose aim is to meliorate 
 the culture of the lands, and assist the progress of the arts, and 
 of commerce. Majorca has a society of this kind under the 
 name of friends of the country. But often the means of im- 
 provement are wanting : they find themselves at a stand in de- 
 signs of great utility, and to plans of less importance they do not 
 give much attention. 
 
 The chief produce of the island of Majorca, consists of wheat, 
 barley, oats, almonds, figs, oranges, vegetables, oil, wines and 
 brandies. 
 
 The wheat harvest yearly amounts to 507,228 faneques. 
 The barley harvest amounts to 178,279, and that of oats to 
 121,766. 
 
 The quantity of wheat and barley is' insufficient for the con- 
 sumption of the inhabitants ; they import from Barbary to make 
 up the deficiency. 
 
 The oats produce a sufficient quantity for the consumption of 
 the island. 
 
 The Majorcans gather near 107,414 faneques of vegetables 
 of every kind. The beans alone, although the chief article of 
 food to the inhabitants of the country places, gives a surplus of 
 about 12,000 faneques, which are sent to Barcelona. 
 
 The produce of oil is calculated to be 2,081,969 arrobes, of 
 •which 100,000 are exported. The arrobe is a liquid measure of 
 twenty-five pounds. 
 
 The uumber of oranges and lemons is reckoned to be 24,000 
 weight, 14,000 of which are sent to France and other places 
 on the continent. 
 
 The almonds give 21,944 faneques; 11,400 are exported. 
 
 The produce of *figs is entirely consumed in the island, and 
 amounts to 12,00© quintals ; 952,747 arrobes is' the quantity of 
 wine produced ; nearly 575,629 are consumed in the island. 
 
 They make about 37,400 arrobes of brandy, of which at least 
 15,000 are exported. 
 
 The Majorcans, besides their own consumption, export 
 about 2,000 quintals of capers of different qualities. 
 
 The quantity of hemp may be about 6,000 quintals : of silk 
 at most to 400. The quantity of flax does not exceed 250 quiu- 
 tals. These two last articles are very insufficient. 
 
 The wines of Majorca are of different qualities. The 
 ligktest are those of Felanix, Manacor, Petra, and other places 
 in the vicinity of these villages. Those of Sanselias and Benin- 
 «wlem are much in esteem : but the wiucs of Bagnabufar are
 
 CATTLE OF MAJORCA. 35 
 
 the most excellent, and equal the best foreign wines : for delici- 
 ousness of flavor, and for strength, the Moscatel, the Malvoisie, 
 the Pampel-Rodat, and the Montona of Pollenza, are particu- 
 larly celebrated. The surplus of the. consumption of the 
 islanders is turned into brandies of three different qualities : 
 the first, which the Majorcans themselves drink, is flavoured 
 with aniseed ; the second and third sorts are exported. 
 
 CATTLE. 
 
 The island of Majorca maintains 6,000 horned cattle ; 61,324 
 sheep ; 33,6 1 6 goats ; 25,000 swine ; 2,000 horses and mares; 
 and 9,000 beasts of burden, asses and mules. 
 
 These cattle supply food to the Majorcaus, and some for the 
 culture of the lands, the conveyance of commodities, and the 
 manufactories of very coarse cloth, with which the inhabitants 
 of the country are clothed ; the deficiencies made in the flocks 
 by the consumption of the inhabitants, are made up by oxen, 
 sheep, &c. brought from Catalonia, the southern provinces of 
 France, and the coast of Barbary ; and sometimes the losses oc- 
 casioned by epizootic distempers are repaired from Africa. 
 
 The oxen are in general small, lean, and weak, which pro- 
 ceeds rather from the want of pasturage, thau from the quality 
 of the fodder. 
 
 The mules and asses are on the contrary very strong. The 
 maintenance of these animals requires but little care, and they 
 are easily fed. They are smaller than those of Castile, but very 
 gentle, and are broke-in without trouble. 
 
 None but these animals are employed as draught cattle, either 
 in town or country. A very few days after they have left the 
 pasture, they may be employed without inconvenience. 
 
 The horses are weak, have a miserable appearance, and are of 
 very little service, faults which are attributed to the influence of 
 the climate; but the bad food, and the little care that is bestowed 
 on these animals, are more likely the real causes. They give 
 them only straw and a little barley. The have no litter in their 
 stables, but sleep couched on the pavement, which is always 
 very damp ; economy makes them prefer mules, which moreover 
 bear fatigue much better. 
 
 The sheep are large ; their fleece is very thick and the wool is 
 very fine, and furnishes the islanders with about 500 quintals, 
 per annum. The twes and goats supply milk and cheese ; they 
 make of this last article, nearly 8000 quintals, of which, about 
 4500 is sent into the kingdoms of Valentia and Murcia. 
 
 £ 2
 
 36 ST. sauveur's travels. 
 
 The peaiants are accustomed to make of the cream, a sort 
 of white cheese called Brosut, which is of a very pleasant flavour. 
 Of this cheese they easily make butter of a delicate taste, but in 
 quautity it is so reduced that it will not furnish any for the use of 
 the kitchen * 
 
 Of small pieces of mutton they make a kiud of pye, which 
 they season very much with pepper, and they are careful that the 
 paste shall be but little baked, so that it remains white after it 
 comes out of the oven. They make at the same time a sort of 
 little cakes, the chief ingredient of which is cheese ; they have 
 therefore given the name of Fromegiades to this singular sort of 
 pastry. It is a custom in all families, whether rich or poor, to 
 make some of these pies and cakes for the time of Easter : the 
 day on which they proceed to this very interesting operation, is 
 a holiday for the women who are engaged in it, who previously 
 invite their female friends, kinsfolk, and neighbours. They as- 
 semble together in the chief rooms of the house ; women, chil- 
 dren, mistresses, and servants, range themselves without any 
 distinction around a table of sufficient length, where they set to 
 work, and never quit their place, till the Fromegiades are drawn 
 out of the oven. They then divide and share them, making 
 choice of some to present to their friends, &c. &.c. 
 
 To proceed in the description of the animals, the swine are 
 large ; those they kill at the shambles generally weigh from 
 500 to 350 pounds. The Majorcans are very partial to this kind 
 of meat ; the fat is only used in their ragouts. There is not any 
 family whose circumstances are easy, who do not kill a pig or 
 two at the beginning of the year ; and who do not preserve the 
 lard and melt it for the above purpose. 
 
 They make of their pork a kiud of saussages, called Sopresades, 
 which are extremelv hbh seasoned. These are seldom liked by 
 strangers, but the M.ijorcans are extravagantly fond of them. 
 They also make a kind of pye, of pieces of pittifar, a kind of 
 black pudding, made of the fat and blood of the pig, and pep- 
 pered very much ; they add to this, pieces of love-apples, and 
 some dried grapesu The first time 1 tasted this species of pastry 
 I thought I was poisoned, nevertheless it is a kind of cookery 
 much in vogue. 
 
 The day when they kill the pig, is a similar holiday to that 
 of the Fromegiades, and is another occasion for the Majorcan 
 
 * We can onlv understand this pMftagf, by supposing that cheese is of 
 a peculiarly oLaginous quality. To make butter out of cheese seems an ab- 
 surd anomnly; but we hare literally given the expression of tbe author. 
 " De ce frontage on faitfacilement unbeurre d'un &out delicut, &c." Ed.
 
 HfSTORY OF PAIMA. 37 
 
 women to invite their relations and friends. These are invited 
 to porchegiar, that is to say, to assist and take part, in all the 
 operations of the charcuterie ; which word includes curing sai*- 
 sage, and black-pudding making, &e. Sic. 
 
 They have plenty of poultry, but not many geese or ducks : 
 the islanders seldom eat them. 
 
 They have small game in tolerable plenty, such as partridges, 
 quails, woodcocks, thrushes, rabbits, and hares, &c. There 
 are no beasts of prey except foxes, and of them but few. 
 
 Among the birds of prey the most common is the sparrow-f 
 hawk. 
 
 The Majorcans keep a great number of pigeons ; there is not 
 a house without some of them. 
 
 Fish is not plenty, the fishermen do not go far from the shore, 
 .and fish of any considerable size are very scarce. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY OF PALMA. 
 I> 
 
 JL ALMA, the capital of the island of Majorca, is a Bishop's 
 See, and has a Governor-general, whose military jurisdiction ex- 
 tends to the Baleares and Pithiusian islands. A royal audience 
 was established in this capital in the year 1571, whose jurisdic- 
 tion civil and criminal, had the same extent as that of the go- 
 vernor-general. Don Ferdinand the catholic founded a Univer- 
 sity at Palnia, in the year 1483. 
 
 Iu 1697 there was formed, under the protection of the king, 
 an economic society, composed of the persons most respected 
 for rank and talents. Thar labours embraced every object which 
 could tend to the moral or physical good of the island. 
 
 The desire of the public welfare engaged the count de Cam- 
 pomanes, under the administration of the Count Florida Blanca, 
 to solicit the court of Madrid for its protection to the above 
 establishment in the city of Palma; and that it might be put on 
 the same footing with those of the capital, Charles III. favour- 
 ed the beneh\ ial views of that nobleman. The new society held 
 /their first assembly on the 25th day of September in the same 
 year; and took the title of, " The Society of the Friends of 
 tlie Country" and for a device, a palm tree hung with trophies, 
 composed of several implements ol agriculture, navigation, and
 
 38 ST. sauveur's travels. 
 
 the arts, by the side of which is placed a cornucopia, and above 
 is a min or reflecting the rays of the sun ; m the distance is seen 
 the city of Palma, with the following inscription, Societate 
 Clarior; and around it, Real Suciedad De Amigos, Del Pais, 
 Del Reino, Di Mallorea. This society annually bestow prizes 
 on those artists, or mechanics who present any work performed 
 with a remarkable degree of perfection, or any new invention 
 of approted utility. 
 
 They also give rewards to those children in the principal 
 schools, who distinguish themselves by their superior talents, or 
 particular improvement. Palma is also the residence of an in- 
 tendanr, and a numerous nobility who are extremely vain of 
 their antiquity, and tenacious of 'their titles and rank. It is 
 situated on the sea-shore, and describes a semi-circle. This city is 
 enclosed by a wall of fourteen palms in thickness, but made with 
 a sort of white soft stone, which a cannon ball does not break or 
 split. This wall is protected by thirteen bastions, and other 
 fortifications of some strength ; but which do not seem capable 
 of defence for any length of time against a siege. There are 
 eight gates to this city, two of them are ou that side which is 
 next the sea. 
 
 The port is small, and can only receive vessels that draw but 
 little water, which moor on the north side to a narrow ill paved 
 mote, which is about two hundred and fifty fathoms in length. 
 It is terminated by a bastion, and a small house, where those who 
 are appointed as guardians of health attend io receive the decla- 
 rations of those captains, whose vessels arrive in this port. .Near 
 the mote is a dock where small vessels are built. 
 
 There is also another dock situated on the sea-shore, near the 
 port Aux Pins, which they very improperly call the dock- 
 yard. 
 
 One of the principal buildings of Palma is the palace of the 
 governor general, where the regent of the audience, and the in- 
 ttndant have also their apartments. This palace is very large hut 
 built without any regularity or taste ; it is composed of great halls, 
 and small inconveuient, ill-furnished chambers. Its situation 
 on the sea-coast, of which it commands an extensive prospect 
 from a large balcony, makes a littie amends for the melancholy 
 appearance of the apartments. 
 
 After crossing a large com t-vard we ascended a flight of stone 
 steps to the palace. The first room is a kind of vestibule, which 
 serves for the body guard. We then go to the right, through 
 two large rooms, wherein there is scarcely a seat. The third is 
 the. hall of audience, in which is, a throne of crimson velvet,
 
 PALACE ANB CATHEDRAL. - 30 
 
 fringed with gold. The three steps on which the throne is raised, 
 are covered with a carpet. At the two sides, are two lions carved 
 in wood, and gilt ; the canopy is also of crimson velvet, and the 
 top is ornamented with panaches of ostrich feathers. Above the 
 throne are the portraits of the king and queen : it is in this room 
 that the governor, on court and gala days receives the compli- 
 ments of the nobility, the officers of the garrison, and strangers 
 of distinction. The room:?, contiguous to this hall, are those 
 where the governor and his family reside ; they have nothing re- 
 markable, nor is there any thing more worthy of notice in the 
 apartments of the intendant and of the regent of the audience. 
 The furniture is more or less rich and elegant, according to the 
 wealth and taste of those who inhabit the rooms. 
 
 In the body of this palace is the chapel royal, the audience- 
 chamber, the archives, an armoury, two guard-rooms, and a 
 barrack for one hundred and fifty horse soldiers. There are, also 
 two gardens belonging to the palace ; one is for the use of the go- 
 vernor-general, the other for the regent of the audience ; they are 
 not either of them any thing more than kitchen garden*. Near 
 the palace there is a large square tower very high, in which 
 are kept the prisoners of state. They pretend that this palace 
 was the work of the Romans ; but from the form and style 
 of its architecture, I do not think that the construction of the 
 edifice goes back to a more remote epoch, than that when 
 the Moors were masters of the island. It is 509 years since 
 the princes of that nation possessed Majorca : the first time 
 that I traversed the immense chambers of this antique castle, I 
 could not help fancying myself cotemporary with the remotest 
 periods of history, with the Romans, the conquerors of the 
 Carthagenians ; and here I called to mind the times when the 
 Vandals were masters of the island in 456. I gave a few tears to 
 the memory of the unfortunate Belisarius, who, after the con- 
 quest of the Baleares, and moreover of Africa, was overwhelmed 
 by the injustice and ingratitude of the emperor Justinian. Nor 
 could I help making some serious reflections on the ravages of the 
 Moors. 1 quitted, however, these melancholy pictures for one 
 which was an object of admiration, the king, don Jayme of 
 Arragon, triumphant over the barbarians. 
 
 The cathedral is handsome, but of Gothic architecture ; the 
 dome is sustained by two rows of seven pillars each, seven palms 
 and a half in diameter, and one hundred and fifty-six in height. 
 The architecture of this church is bold, and does honour to the 
 artist who undertook it, under Don Jayme, conqueror of the 
 island. The ancient front, which corn.sponded with the rest of
 
 40 ST. sauveur's TRAVELS. 
 
 the building, has been replaced by a wooden ornament in a bad 
 style. The interior of the church, the grand altar, and the 
 chapels have nothing very remarkable ; the choir occupies the 
 center of the aisle, and destroys every grace and beauty. It is 
 composed of a quantity of masonry work, of cut stone, without 
 llie least ornament : at one corner of this heap is a pulpit, which 
 by its form of a long square, rather resembles a rostrum. It rs 
 entirely of stone, but decorated with some sculptural designs. 
 The throne of the bishop, and a range of stalls of walnut-tree 
 wood, occupy the interior of the choir. In the midst is an en- 
 ormous octagon reading desk, which only leaves a narrow pas- 
 sage on each side. Between the choir, and the grand altar is 
 placed the tomb of king Jayme II.; it is a kind of urn of black 
 marble, with some ornaments of copper, gilt. It is supported by 
 four iions' feet, which do not appear to be in proportion with 
 the grandeur of the mausoleum : above is a crown of silver. 
 A Latin inscription transmits to posterity the epoch of the 
 death of that monarch. This tomb is surrounded by an iron 
 grate, of the height of three feet, and which separates it from 
 the entrance to the choir. The most remarkable chapels are 
 those of the crucifixion of St. Martin, and of St. Benoit, 
 but there is only a confused heap of sculptures to be seen. 
 The traveller, Pons, complains of having seen the same fault in 
 several churches of the continent. The artist who constructed 
 the baptismal font, has avoided these defects, and has only adopted 
 in his work a noble and agreeable simplicity. It is of a tine 
 marble, speckled red. The pictures which ornament the church 
 deserve but little the attention of connoisseurs. The paint- 
 ings alfresco of the chapel of Ascension, are of strong co- 
 louring, but are wanting in the design. The chapel of Piety is 
 ornamented with twenty eight pictures of different saints, the 
 frames of which touch each other. \i this assemblage inspire 
 Teneration, we are not in a less degree disgusted with the supersti- 
 tion which prevails : they preserve with the greatest care in the 
 treasury, a piece of the real cross, three thorns of tl»e crown of 
 our Saviour, a part of his robe, and a part of the veil of the 
 Virgin Mary, with one arm of St. Sebastian. They pretend that 
 these relics were brought and deposited at Majorca in 1512, 
 by Manual Suria, arch-deacon of Rhodes. Among the riches 
 of the treasury are six silver candlesticks of an extraordinary size ; 
 they have each seven branches, and are of excellent workman- 
 ship; the feet are supported by satyis, which has been some- 
 times a subject of ridicule against these extravagant enthusiasts.
 
 ACCOUNT OF THIi CHURCHES. 41 
 
 They do not place these candlesticks at the high altar, except on 
 the most solemn holidays. # ; 
 
 The clergy of the cathedral consist of the bishop, six digni- 
 taries, .viz. an archdeacon, a sacristan, a dean, a chanter, an tin- 
 der chanter, and a treasurer, and of twenty-two canons, besides 
 a certain number of other ecclesiastics belonging to the service of 
 this church. The music of the cathedral consists of different in- 
 struments and voices ; there is also a very fine organ. 
 
 The revenues of the bishopric are estimated at 45,000 piasters ; 
 •those of the six dignitaries amount to 10,000, and 42,500 are 
 appropriated to the prebends. Three portions of 1750 are 
 deducted for the inquisitors ; all these sums accrue partly from 
 the rents belonging to the cathedral. 
 
 The king receives the ninth part of the tithes. The subor- 
 dinate ecclesiastics are paid from a sum of 4000 piasters, to 
 which is added the amount of the legacies left by the pious island- 
 ers to the cathedral; they have moreover their masses, and the 
 casual advantagel^'their functions. 
 
 The cpiscoytjti palace is not so large as that of the 
 governor-general, but much better disposed, and better fur- 
 nished. In the first ball or apartment, are the portraits 
 of all the prelates who have filled the see of Majorca, 
 since the foundation of the bishopric. The secoud apartment is 
 the library, which however contains but few books, aiid those 
 mostly on the subject of religion. The rest of the palace presents 
 nothing interesting ; the garden is small, and is only cultivated for 
 the use of the table. 
 
 Besides the metropolitan churcb, there are five parishes at 
 Palma ; ten convents for men, and eleven for women. 
 
 The number of monks and ecclesiastics is very considerable ; 
 all the churches and convents are ricfc-ly endowed ; and the 
 monks have a» inexhaustable fund, in the mistaken devotion of the 
 faithful; their great riches, and their want ef morality, have 
 sometimes attracted the attention of the government. 
 
 Of the churches in this city, that of the parish of St. Michael 
 is worthy of notice : it was formerly a mosque of the Moorj. 
 At the time when the islanders were converted to the christian 
 faith, the holy mysteries were celebrated for the first time in this 
 jchurch.1 It is one of the smallest, being only 163 palms in. 
 length, and 87 in width. 
 
 The handsomest and richest churches are those belonging to 
 the monasteries. They preserve in that of the Augustine.* the 
 ,body of Saint Catharine Tomasa, who was a Majorcan. 
 They also shew in the village of Valdemusa, her paternal resi- 
 dence, in front of which they have placed an iron cross. The 
 
 £f. SAUVEUR-] P
 
 42 st. sauveur's travels, 
 
 feast of this saint is celebrated every year with much magnificence : 
 her life and her miracles are recorded in many works of her 
 countrymen. Curiosity impelled me to turnover the leaves of 
 one of these writings in the Majorcan idiom. Bartholomew 
 Pont, the author, seemed to have collected some good stories for 
 children and old women ; but the style of this panegyrist is de- 
 void of every charm. 
 
 The churches of St Eulalia, and St. Magia, possess the dan- 
 gerous privilege of being an asylum for criminals who take refuge 
 there. Every church in Spain was formerly an inviolable refuge 
 for criminals and persons pursued by justice, who could not be 
 taken from thence, without the assurance of not being con- 
 demned to death, whatever might be the crime. In civil matters, 
 all the proceedings of justice were suspended. For example, a 
 bankrupt in that asylum had nothing to fear from his creditors. 
 Jt may be easily supposed, how much a privilege of this kind is 
 injurious to the safety and tranquillity of the public, a privilege 
 which gives to the man without morals aduti iages so prejudi-r 
 cial to probity and honesty. The multiplicity 1 .^ shocking abu- 
 ses, which this privilege occasioned,.. at length determined the 
 government to confiue it to a certain j number of churches in 
 every city. 
 
 The church of SL Eulalia is situated in the market place; 
 that of St- Magia is in ihe suburb of St. Catharine, which is 
 pntire : y inhabited by sea-faring men. Its being thus situated in a 
 part which is generally filled with the common people, makes the 
 privilege particularly injurious to society. 
 
 The exchange is one of the most beautiful buildings in the city. 
 It is a very large ball, whose roof is only supported by four light 
 pillars. The stone of which it is built, was taken from the 
 quarries of Santagni. The style of architecture is gothic. 'The 
 epoch of the building of this exchange, is anterior to that of the 
 discovery of America. It is a monument of the splendour of the 
 commerce which enriched the Majorcans at that time. The 
 wages of the workmen who were employed in building this edi- 
 fice, amounted to 1 j,0(X) ducats, an enormous sum in those 
 days, when gold and silver were not very common. Behind this 
 exchange is a garden; where they formerly cultivated only exotic 
 ynd scarce plants. 'Ihe love-apple, and the pimento, of which 
 the Majorcans are so fond, have now taken their place. This; 
 garden was also ornamented with a stone fountain, and jet, 
 and with several statues, of which there is now nothing to be seen 
 but t ruins. The hall of the exchange, being a convenient place 
 t'pt the purpose, is used for the masked balls given at the time of
 
 THE TOWN -HALL. 43 
 
 the carnival. I have seen there above twelve hundred person* 
 unified together in the greatest confusion. 
 
 Near the garden of the exchange there is a small house, where 
 the tribunal of commerce holds its sessions. 
 
 The town-hall also deserves the attention of the traveller, for 
 architecture, and the sculptured ornaments on the front of the 
 building. They are like those on the rest of the public edifices, 
 of a gothic sort, but of curious workmanship. The interior is 
 divided into several halls where the civil and criminal courts are 
 held. The Majorcans are eager to shew to strangers, the room 
 where are placed the portraits of the illustrious characters,, and 
 the great men, who have done honour to Majorca, with those of 
 the present day, who hold the first rank among their fellow citi- 
 zens. I was not a litttle astonished to see among the first class 
 of these portraits, that of Hannibal, who they assert was born at 
 Majorca. The Majorcans relate, that Hamilcar passing from 
 Africa to Catalonia, with his wife, who ^t that time was preg- 
 nant, landed on a point of the island, where was a temple dedica- 
 ted to the goddess Lucina, and that Hannibal first drew breath in 
 this place. This same story is found in Dameto's History of 
 Majorca. A lofty ambition, and excessive self-love, make 
 a very prominent feature in the general character of all islanders. 
 I have had time and frequent occasions to observe the truth of 
 this remark, during a residence of above five and twenty years 
 in different islands. The high opinion, which the Majorcans en- 
 tertain of themselves, is the result of the want of a knowledge 
 of the world, and of the opportunities of comparison with stran- 
 gers, of whom they see only a few travellers. Thus a Majorcari, 
 like every other islander, thinks there is nothing in the world 
 which can be compared with his own country. He boasts of 
 the superiority with great confidence, and it is a vain attempt 
 to endeavour to remove a prejudice which is so flattering. All 
 the pictures which ornament this room of the town-hall, are por- 
 traits of the bishops, ecclesiastics, and illustrious military cha- 
 racters; they have also the portrait of Saint Raymond Lul- 
 lus, and king don Jayme, the conqueror, is represented on foot, 
 in a costume which much resembles the long robe of the 
 Greeks. 
 
 From this hall we pass to that which is used for a drawing- 
 school, where a certain number of young men take lessons from 
 masters, who are paid by the archbishop of Seville, who is a 
 Majorcan, and by the bishop of Majorca, who are the founders 
 of this school. All the other apartments are large empty rooms. 
 In front of the building there is along iron balcony, which seeitts 
 to have been added within these few years. 
 
 F 2
 
 44 st. sauveur's tratels. 
 
 r rhe Majorcans preserve whh much veneration, tlie armour of 
 king don Jayme. ft consists of a helmet, a cuirass of gilt iron, 
 a long rnsty sword, and a piece of a lance. The saddle, hous- 
 ings, and harness of his horse, are also preserved with the sam* 
 care, though they are nothing but shreds and- tatters* These re- 
 lics, together with all the portraits, are exposed in front of the 
 town hall, on the last day of the year, which is a holiday, kept 
 in memory of the day in which don Jayme made his entrance 
 into Palma. The portrait of this prince is placed under a ca- 
 nopy. A forge stuffed lizard, about two feet long, is also expo- 
 sed to view ; this- is suspended over the door of an apothecary, 
 who is very vain and tenacious of the priirilege. Nothing cair 
 be more astonishi»g, than that persons seemingly well informed, 
 should repeat seriously the ridiculous stories which they relate 
 on the subject of this lizard ; " This monster," say they, seem- 
 ing still to behold it with fear, * formerly ravaged the island of 
 Majorca, and unpeopled the dwellings that were near the morass- 
 to which it usually retired. One of the ancestors of the apo- 
 thecary, who' possessed the skin, succeeded 1 in delivering the* 
 island from this plague. He has been granted the privilege of 
 thus exhibiting this monument of his prowess, on the day 
 which recals the memory of the conquest of the island, and it* 
 deliverance from its subjection to the Moors. 
 
 A piece of antiquity, which appeared to me well worthy of 
 attention, was the clock of the town-hall, called Balearic. Da- 
 meto, the historian, in the description which he gives of it, nil* 
 six pages in folio with a dissertation on the manner of di- 
 viding the day among the different people of antiquity. Mut, 
 who wrote the continuation, has also dedicated four pages to an? 
 eulogy on this curiosity. 
 
 This very ancient piece of mechanism is called the clock of 
 the Sua. It shews the hours from the rising until the setting 
 of that luminary ; following the greater or less extent of the 
 diurnal and nocturnal arch ; so that on the 10th of June it 
 strikes the first hour of the day at half past five, and the four- 
 teenth at half-past seven ; the first of the night at half-past eight ^ 
 the ninth at hal£-past four, on the morning following. It is the- 
 inver9e to begin from the 10th of December, during the course 
 of the year. The hoars are exactly regulated according to the 
 variations of the rising and setting of the sun. This clock is 
 not of much use to the people of the country, as they regulate 
 the time from the modern clocks. It is, however, of service to 
 gardeners to determine the proper time for watering their 
 plants. It is not known at what epoch this curiosity was 
 brought to Palma. It is not thought that it came from 
 
 \
 
 DECLINE OF THE INQUISITION- 4<5 
 
 Spain, Germany, or Italy, where the Romans had introduced 
 the manner of dividing the day into twelve hours; beginning at 
 the rising of the sun. If we are to go back for the epoch ami 
 place for the construction of this machine to the time of the 
 Israelites, we shall see, that under the reign of King i>avid, the 
 day and night were divided into four vigils. At the coming of 
 Jesus ChrisU the Jewish hours made three of the present mode 
 of reckoning. However, an ecclesiastic, rector of the Univer- 
 sity of Palma, assures us, in the third part of a Work upon 
 the Seraphic Religion, that some fugitive Jews in the time of 
 Vespasian dug out this famous clock from the ruins- of Jerusalem, 
 and transported it to Majorca, where they had taken refuge : — 
 miraculous origin, well suited to the characterise taste of the 
 islanders for the marvellous!! The historian*, Dameto and 
 Mut, only date the antiquity of this Balearic clock from the 
 year 1385. It was brought from the convent of Dominicans, 
 and placed in the tower, where it now is. 
 
 Near the town-hall are the prisons ; where, as in all others of 
 Spain, the unfortunate inhabitants breathe an unwholesome air, 
 and are at the mercy of cruel and unfeeling gaolers. 
 
 The house of the Inquisition has nothing remarkable; the 
 name alone is sufficient to check any curiosity of visiting this 
 abode. The Inquisition is no longer that dreadful tribunal, 
 whose proceedings and judgments so many writers have trans- 
 mitted to posterity ; probably with a little exaggeration. The 
 edicts of the government, marked with humanity, justice, and 
 wisdom, have taken from the Inquisition that authority which 
 was so dangerous : the places are now only given to such eccle- 
 siastics as are distinguished by their virtues, moderation, and 
 learning. 
 
 The Jews, a class of people whose only crime was often the 
 wealth they had acquired by their industry, and their knowledge 
 of trade, now live in peace, and may increase the riches of their 
 country, without fear of the torch and of the stake. The In- 
 quisition, a tribunal formerly so terrible, cannot now even disturb 
 the liberty of a citizen, except it is previously authorised by the 
 government, which alone pronounces on the validity of their 
 motives, ff any individual attracts the attention of the Inquisi- 
 tors, by offensive conduct, or irreligious conversation, he is cited 
 to appear before them, when he is charitably reminded of the 
 duties which a citizen owes to society; and it is only his obsti- 
 nate perseverance in his errors that can subject him to punish- 
 ment, which generally is a few days' seclusion in a convent. It 
 too often happens, that strangers, whose minds are already pre- 
 judiced by what they have read or heard of the Inquisition,
 
 46 ST. SAUVEUI1 T S TRAVELS. 
 
 entertain a mistaken opinion, judging by some abuses, of which 
 they are witnesses; and which ought to be attributed either to the 
 ignorance or indiscreet zeal, and more generally to the ofheious- 
 ness of some inferior agents. I have myself seen some instances 
 of this : I witnessed the confiscation of " The Course of Study," 
 composed by Condillac for the education of a prince of the house 
 of Spain, which was condemned through the eagerness of one 
 of these agents; but it was reclaimed, and immediately the 
 inquisitors ordered it to be restored. Nevertheless, we still see 
 in the convent of the monks of St. Dominick, pictures which 
 preserve the recollection of the barbarities formerly exercised on 
 the Jews. Evert one of those unfortunate beings who were 
 burnt, is represented in a picture, at the bottom of which is 
 written the name, age, and the tune when the unhappy victim 
 suffered. 1 was assured, tliat a few years back, the descendants 
 of these unfortunates, who now form a particular class among 
 the inhabitants of Palma, under the ridiculous denomination of 
 Owls, had in vain offered considerable sums of money, to 
 h.ave the distressing memorials effaced. I refused to believe 
 the fact, but they assured me, that there was now in force a 
 decree of government to punish every individual who uttered any 
 iujurious expressions against a Jew ; that of owl is specified, and 
 particularly forbidden, on pain of severe punishment; but, un- 
 fortunately, it is sanctioned by custom. 
 
 I shall never forget one day, when I was walking in the cloister 
 of the Dominicans, and looking with concern on these paintings, 
 a monk approached me, and made me observe among them 
 several that were distinguished by crossed bones. These, said 
 he, are the portraits of those whose r-shes were dug up, and 
 cast to the winds. My blood chilled, and I turned from him 
 with horror. My heart sickened at the scene. 
 
 A Narrative of the Order of the Inquisition, which was printed 
 in the year 1 755, came, by chance, into my hands, which con- 
 tained the names, surnames, rank, and crimes of the unhappy 
 beings who were sentenced at Majorca, from the year 1()45 to 
 to the year l6yi. I shuddered as I rend. I there found that 
 four Majorcans, accused of Judaism, one of whom was a 
 woman, were burnt alive; thirty-two others, for the same crime, 
 died in the dungeons of the Inquisition, and their bodies were 
 burnt; the ashes of three were dug up and thrown to the winds: 
 a Dutchman, accused of Lutheranism, a Majorca*), of Maho- 
 metar.ism, six Portuguese, one of whom was a woman, and 
 seven Majorcans, for Judaism, were burnt in effigy, having been 
 so fortunate us to make their escape. I counted two hundred 
 and si.xteeu other victims, Majorcans and strangers, accused of
 
 HORRORS OF THE INQUISITION. 47 
 
 Judaism, heresy, or Mahometanism, who came out of the 
 prisons, after having publicly retracted, and being again received 
 into the bosom of the church. This dreadful catalogue was 
 closed by a sentence of the Inquisition, no less horrible, 
 of which I have here given a translation from the original 
 Spanish : 
 
 " All the criminals mentioned in this relation were publicly 
 condemned by the holy .office, a3 heretics; all their goods con- 
 fiscated, and applied to the royal revenue ; declared unfit and in- 
 capable of having or holding dignities or benefices, either eccle* 
 siastic or secular, or other public offices, or honours ; neither 
 might they wear, nor carry about their persons, either gold or 
 silver, pearls, precious stones, coral, silk, camblet, or tine 
 cloth; neither might they ride a horse, carry arms, or use and 
 employ other things, which by common justice, laws, and prag- 
 matics of this kingdom, instructions and customs of the holy 
 office, are prohibited to those individuals who are thus proscrib- 
 ed ; the same prohibition extends, in the case of .women con- 
 demned to the fire, to their sons and daughters, and in that of 
 men, to their grandsons in the male line. At die same time, 
 execrating the memory of those burnt in effigy ; and commanding 
 that their bones (when they could be distinguished from those of 
 faithful christians) should be dug up, and delivered to justice and 
 the secular power, to be burnt, and reduced to ashes: and that 
 every inscription^or armorial bearing, which should be found on 
 their tombs or elsewhere, should be erased and obliterated, so 
 that no other memorial of them should remain on the earth, than 
 that of their condemnation and execution." 
 
 There are four hospitals in Palma. That of the City, de-. 
 signed for the poor ; that called The Mercy, for the reception of, 
 children, who are the offsprings of debauchery, or youthful im- 
 prudence, or deserted by unnatural parents, and for the aged of 
 both sexes, whose infirmities make them incapable of working 
 for their i bread. The military hospital for the soldiers of the 
 garrison, and that called The Pity, for the reception and confine- 
 ment of women of licentious conduct. The city hospital is a 
 handsome building ; the men occupy two large wards, and the 
 women two others. There are, besides, three wards, which arc 
 supported by particular societies. The whole hospital can con- 
 tain five hundred beds. The sick are well attended ; the beds are 
 good, and the food proper and wholesome ; the wards are large 
 and well ventilated. There is also another part divided into 
 small chambers, where the windows are strongly grated, which is 
 designed for those who have had the misfortune to lose their 
 reason, and whose madness is violent and dangerous,
 
 *8 ST. S'AUVEUIt's TRAVEtS. 
 
 'ITiis hospital is attended by people of both sexes; it is 
 endowed by the city ; and the property of the theatre belongs to 
 it, of which it has a third of the profits of tiie daily receipt*-, 
 and the rent of the boxes. The management is confided to 
 some of the principal inhabitants of Majorca, who zealously 
 endeavour to fulfil a trust at once honourable and important, as 
 it tends to meliorate -the sufferings of the afflicted. 
 
 The other hospitals presented only a spectacle of misery. 
 That of Mercy has no fixed revenue, and is merely support- 
 ed by the volnutary contributions of the charitable inhabitants, 
 and the profits of the labours of children, and of the aged, 
 who arc employed in spinning flax. This emolument is very in- 
 considerable ; and the situation of those who are in the hospital 
 is truly pitiable. The same sentiment of compassion pre- 
 vails on seeing the military hospital, which is as badly constructed 
 us situated. It may contain three hundred beds. It is managed 
 t»y a person who may be said to farm it, and who receives from 
 the king six reals per diem for each patient. This man pro- 
 vides beds, medicines, and fqod, and pays all those who are em- 
 ployed under hire. The chaplain, physician, and surgeon have 
 salaries from the king. The intendant of the province, and a 
 commissioner of war, have the inspection of this hospital. The 
 expenditure for each patient is estimated at three reals : the over- 
 plus of the sum granted by the king, is a perquisite which the 
 person who farms the hospital divides with those whom he 
 employs.. Those patients who are crowded into the lower wards 
 Jbrtatbe a mephitic air, often occasioning fatai terminations 
 to distempers, which originally were not at ail dangerous. The 
 gecdn of putrefaction spread so much the more from $ot .having 
 a free circulation and change of air in the wards, and the want of 
 cleanliness, which every observer must remark. The defenders 
 of their country are here very far from enjoying those benefits 
 which the tenderness of their sovereign means to supply them. 
 Here, as it is in most other public establishments, rapacious 
 avarice and ignorance swallow with impunity those funds which 
 should give comfort to the afflicted. 
 
 The streets of Palma are in general narrow and ill paved, and 
 jhere is not even one regular square in the whole city ; and 
 though the historian J)ameto compares the Place des Bornes 
 to the most beautiful squares in the several capitals of Europe, 
 it is, in fact, only a small space of land of irregular shape, uu- 
 paved, and surrounded wkh dismal-looking houses. It is, how- 
 ever, the greatest promenade ,of strangers, and the daily rendez- 
 vous of those who do not know how to employ their time. The 
 pews of the day is there detailed, and politicians settle the affair*
 
 • PUBLIC SOUAftES. 4f>. 
 
 ■if the sMte. The orators and "auditors, at limes, retreat into 
 some mean coffee-house to -enliveu their imaginations with a 
 glass of liquor, or to cool their arguments with refreshing 
 draughts, Such are the delights of this place of which, Dameto 
 boasts so greatly. Scorched by the heat of the sun, and choaked 
 with dust in summer-; and in winter almost buried in the mud.,, ' 
 
 Palaia has also another small square, situated near the port, 
 from which it is only separated by, the ramparts of, the. city. 
 They have given the name of Terra jpana to this place. 
 
 According to general observation, made at the time when the 
 plague raged in the island of Majorca, which is about eighty 
 years ago, this quarter of the city, was least affected by its 
 ravages. The Terra Saua may be about large enough for eight 
 hundred men to draw up in battle-array. One. of the sides is 
 formed by a small barrack, which is sometimes tilled with -.foot- 
 soldiers, and' sprnetimes with cavahy'. The stables will only 
 contain from twenty-five to thirty horses. The square -of the 
 "Jerra Sana was formerly covered. by the sea, and; there ^s stiljrto 
 be -seen t^ie ancient entrance of the port. In short, there are. no 
 public promenades in Majorca; for la Ratnbe. cannot bedopked 
 upou as deserving such a title, being only a walk about fevyp hun- 
 dred paces , in length, with large tre.es on, ; each- s$£ 8f $nd. ,some 
 ;stoue seatsxn Of this walk no care is l#keu ; lor even those,treeS 
 which have de^iyed, or been. cut down, are not replaced ; and 
 though Uiosejwhi^h ; remain are ^?ery 'Jarge, they are so distant 
 ^ejlr-om the pifeer, that they afford! but little, shelter either from 
 the heat of j^liej sjuu, pr from the rain. 
 
 Tlierc is only a small space between La RamL)e/and the Place? 
 dqf, r ]BoriTe^,'aud ^terminates, at the gate of Jesu#. Oiifpassing 
 this, gate we iindr/auotlier w#lk; bordered, with small ,treesj whose 
 foliage, is Heij.her r a. shelter from the sun, nor pleasant to the 
 eye. Tt is ; in. length, about six hundred paces, ■ and reaches as 
 far as the convent f>f Jesus. This promenade is frequented on 
 holidays in the evening. The ladies here take an 'airing in 
 U^eu; clunisv coaches. These heavy vehicles,-- drawn by mules 
 harnessed- with cords, follow one another in a train round this 
 promenade for two or three hours. The footboards of ; the.se 
 carriages ,afe placed on the outside, and serve the young gallants 
 to stand, $11 while they make „their court ^o the fair, who are 
 inuchjflattered by this public testimony of their- regard. Any 
 carriage which. is going to or returning from the country, js obliged 
 Ip take its place at the, end of this train ; from which it can only 
 separate at the place where the carriages began their round. 
 This custom every one is obliged to comply with. I was one 
 day witness to a very diverging fracas. The lady of the governor 
 
 ST. SAUYEUR.J G
 
 50 ST. sauvrur's TRAVELS. 
 
 general took it in her head to break the rank of coaches, and 
 hers was instantly involved with all the rest. Nothing could be 
 more ridiculous than this confusion, which might, however, 
 have had very serious consequences. The Majercan ladies 
 stretched their necks out at the coach-windows, and addressed 
 theroselves to the governor's lady in the most insulting manner ; 
 who, on her part, returned the indecent expressions from her 
 coach, and threatened them, shaking her fan. .Add to this scene 
 the language of the coachmen and footmen, who joined in the 
 dispute and quarrelled among themselves, with the laughter and 
 shouts of those who walked, and you will have some idea of 
 this ridiculous scene. Would any one believe that this affair was 
 the subject of long complaints, with which they pestered the 
 court of Madrid. The process was determined in favour of the 
 Majorcan ladies. 
 
 This manner of taking the air is called the * Roda." 
 If any one wishes to enjoy the pleasure of breathing freely a 
 purer air than that of the city, he must go a considerable way 
 into the country, where only the riches and beauties of nature 
 are to be seen. They might, however, without much expence, 
 make a very pleasant promenade, if to the distance from the 
 gate of the port to that of Jesus was joined the place of the 
 JBornes and the Rambe, they might plant a double row of trees, 
 such as elms, which are very majestic, and afford a fine shade. 
 They might also add to the pleasantness of the tihice by repair- 
 ing a fountain, the ruins of which are to be see* at the end of 
 the Rambe, which would be particularly useful in a city gene- 
 rally supplied with water only from cisterns. 
 
 But it is in vain to hope that the Majorcans would determine 
 on any improvement which would unite utility with pleasure, 
 ^fhey prefer being hcorched in the sun, and soaked in the rain, 
 and repeat, with the extravagant Dameto, that nothing equals 
 their Place des Borues and their Rambe. They actually assert 
 it, and what is worse, they believe it. 
 
 Between the two last mentioned places is situated the theatrte. 
 It has been built about forty years, and is the property of the 
 City Hospital. An escutcheon is placed above the stage, which 
 bears these three letters, A. G. P. This theatre is large, with 
 four ranges of boxes, to the number of seventy ; those belonging 
 to the city officers occupy the lower part of the space, and that of 
 the governor general is level with the stage, on the left hand in 
 entering. The pit can hold about three hundred specta- 
 tors, who sit on wooden forms. The stage is in proportion 
 to the size of the theatre. This building has no exterior orna- 
 ment, aiid resembles a storehouse, or rather a barn. There is
 
 PUBLIC AMUSEMENTS. . 51 
 
 but one entrance for the public. In front are some arches which 
 support an open gallery ; two small doors behind are used as 
 entrances, one for the governor general, and the other for the 
 performers. Near the entrance, in the interior, is a kind of 
 coffee-room. All the boxes are let, with the exception of some 
 few, which are the exclusive property of different families of 
 Palma, who subscribed to the original fuud at the time the 
 theatre was built. The stage decorations are but poor, having 
 no other funds than the rent of the boxes and the receipts at the 
 doors, which bareiy suffice to pay the performers and others 
 employed in the theatre. 
 
 The representations are composed of pieces of different sorts. 
 The first is always a comedy or a tragedy ; after which they per- 
 form the tonadille, a piece of Spanish music ; a kind of cantata, 
 which consists almost entirely of quavers of the voice, as tire- 
 some to the hearer as to the singer. The poetry marks the par- 
 ticular taste of the people, and the words are the most trifling 
 expressions of lovers. This cantata is sung by a male or female 
 performer, or by both together. Sometimes, instead of the tona- 
 dille, there is a quartetto, or trio, of Italian music, to which 
 Spanish words are adapted. To the tonadille succeeds the volero, 
 or the minuet fandangado, a Spanish dance, performed by a man 
 and woman dressed a la majo, or in the costume of Andalusia. 
 This dance is much admired by the Spaniards, vyho are pleased 
 to applaud those contortions and attitudes, at which a stranger 
 cannot avoid blushing. The spectacle concludes with a sainetc, a 
 little piece with which the people are infinitely pleased, as their 
 manners and common customs are given with the most striking 
 similitude. Sometimes the sainete consists of two little pieces, 
 which are performed at the same time, for example : at the bot- 
 tom of the stage is fitted up a smaller stage, where while they 
 act a scene of washer-women, another of coblers is playing on 
 the ordinary boards. The actors in the two pieces address them*- 
 selves to each other in the course of the representation : the 
 audience are delighted, and applaud with all their might, while 
 the few who are accustomed to any thing like propriety and de- 
 corum, take the first opportunity to escape from the noise and 
 confusion. I have seen one of these miserable farces at Barce- 
 lona, and am no longer astonished at those of Majorca. Gene* 
 rally, the theatre serves at once to meliorate the manners and 
 to instruct the common people ; but in Spain it is precisely the 
 contrary ; for, in many Spanish pieces, immorality and dis- 
 gusting indecency prevails. And with respect to the historical 
 and literary part of the Spanish theatre, it is impossible to form 
 an idea of the extravagancies and anachronisms which abound.
 
 iS ST. SAUVf.UR's TRAVELS. 
 
 These are to be" noticed in all their play*, not even excepting the 
 best of them. Their authors do not confine themselves to the 
 rules of dramatic composition ; they do not attend to the unity 
 of either time or place; but their pieces represent whole his « 
 taries or romances. The hero of the piece appears in the first 
 act as a child ; and at the end dies in extreme old age, under 
 a different hemisphere from that where it commenced ; 
 and often his history is continued during several days. The 
 Spaniards call the acts ghmate: Jt is with great difficulty that 
 the intricacy of the piece can be followed, or rather guessed at : 
 for the story generally finishes abruptly, without any denouement? 
 the curtain falls, and it is almost impossible to give an account 
 of what we have seen performed. To these defects of compo- 
 sition is added the total want of scenic deception : the negligen- 
 cies, unpardonable absurdities in the costumes and decorations, 
 and the most perfect ignorance of the subject in those who per- 
 form the several characters. In a piece called The Death of 
 Hector, i have seen the hero of Greece, and the defender of 
 Troy, appear, the one in a dragoon's uniform, and the other 
 dressed as a hussar; king Priam in a French habit, ornamented 
 with the insignia of the order of Charles the Third ; and the 
 beautiful Andromache in the fashion of the present time. A de-* 
 tachment of grenadiers under arms, with bayonets fixed, com- 
 posed the armies of the Greeks and Trojans. The scene repre- 
 sented the field of battle. In the distance was to be seen the 
 unfortunate Ilium, whose towers were changed into steeples: 
 A roll of the drum gave the signal for engagement, and Hector 
 announced, as he was dying, that the play was concluded, by 
 saying a qui s'acaba la comedin. I could not help indulging the 
 fancy of diverting myself a little at the expence of the manager. 
 J observed to him, that Achilles and Hector fought with pistols^ 
 and not with swords. He frankly confessed that he was unac- 
 quainted with this circumstance ; thanked me for my informa- 
 tion, and promised to correct the error the first time the piece 
 should be played again ; and he kept his word. In another play, 
 called " Aristotle, the Preceptor of Alexander," I have seen the 
 philosopher in the costume of a bishop, with the pastoral cross ; 
 the conqueror of the Persians iu a modern habit, with a red 
 Ttbbon to distinguish him from Philip, whose order was blue ; 
 the princesses in Spanish habits. The scene should have been 
 the interior of the king's palace ; but it was a forest. Neverthe- 
 less several of our best authors have taken from Spanish pieces 
 the subjects of thoirs, which are deservedly admired. They have*, 
 like our artists, known how to make use of the Spanish materials 
 to advantage. In the dramatic works of that country, there ar*
 
 BUILDINGS IN PALMA. 53 
 
 fc&en found passages where genius is displayed, and where the 
 passions and sentiments are given with dignity and animation ; 
 purity of style, with the choice and force of expression, would 
 make one believe that the piece was only a compilation of pas-» 
 sages collected from different works, and badly put together, 
 and which may be compared to pearls set in base metal. The 
 Spaniards are very fond of noise : thus their favourite pieces are 
 those where they represent the battles between their countrymen 
 and the Moors. It is of little consequence how the subject i$ 
 conducted, while there is clashing of sabres and swords, killing 
 of people, and castles destroyed; they ask nothing more, and the 
 piece is excellent. • • - 
 
 The Tremoits are another sort of pieces which are much to 
 their taste : these are those in which trie many different changes 
 of scenery-, and the number of stage tricks, make -all the merit; 
 The hero is always a magician performing wonders, or a saint 
 working miracles. Such is the school where the Spaniards take 
 their lessons of morality and history. 
 
 The houses of Palma are generally large but ill contrived, and 
 very little ornamented. All the display is found at the entrance;, 
 in a kind of vestibule, or portico, supported by a number of 
 pillars. I have remarked some that were of fine marble. The 
 manner in which the houses are built recals to recollection the 
 times when the Moors were in possession of the island. They 
 almost all consist of a ground floor divided into small rooms, 
 and of one above, where the apartments are large and lofty. 
 They are cool in the summer, and freezing cold in the winter. 
 Above these large rooms is a second floor, open on every side'; 
 this is a kind of loft, or rather garret, where the washing is done, 
 and where they have every convenience for drying. They have 
 no chimnies, except in the kitchens, and these are not of much 
 use, as all their victuals are dressed on stoves ; they also warm 
 themselves with brasiers ; these are small pans, or stoves, - to 
 burn charcoal. Nothing can be so amusing as a Majorcan 
 evening : men and women ranged, or rather squatted, on very 
 low seats around the brasier. One, who has a small paper 
 . cigarre in his mouth, puffs the smoak amorously in the face of 
 his mistress ; who modestly looks down and stirs up the ashes in 
 the brasier with a copper spoon; another relates the news of 
 the day, or volunteers a song ; sometimes the whim takes the 
 ; master of the house to sing the service in a doleful tone, at the 
 » same time counting the beads of his rosary; all the company 
 ; joins in a low note, and even the servant girl, who is perhaps 
 cowering her coppers, joins her voice from the kitchen to those 
 tbove. , it is -impossible for a stranger to keep his place ampug
 
 94 *t. sauveur's travels. 
 
 them any length of time ; he retires stammering vn bon nit 
 timbers, which is their manner of wishing good night. 
 
 '\ he Trench emigrants at Majorca have introduced the use of 
 chiintties. Tlfcosfc which die Majorcans now have are almost all 
 th«* work of French m« n. 
 
 Their residence in this bland, and the increase of the garrison, 
 have aluo led to an alteration in the manm r of building houses. 
 Lodging became scarce, and the hire of apartments increased in 
 proportion. The Majorcans, whose fortunes consisted of houses, 
 altered their large rooms, and divided them into smaller apart- 
 ments, for the convenience of receiving a greater number of 
 lodgers. Those who built, altered the plan of the staircases to 
 take up a smaller space of ground ; they constructed the stairs 
 more perpendicular, which has made them difficult of ascent, 
 and dangerous to descend, particularly to those who are subject 
 to vestigo. 
 
 I remarked here, as in most of the houses in the cities of 
 Spin and Italy, the singular custom of placing the privies near 
 the kitchens. I could not obtain a satisfactory reason for this 
 particularity. As to many other questions, they answered me it 
 Vita the custom. 
 
 In Cooke's Vojages, may be found some conjectures on the 
 origin and motive for tl»e situation of these places, which seemed 
 to me to be so extraordinarily misplaced. This celebrated yoyager 
 remarked, in a part of the isle of Portland, where he fancied, that 
 the Indians, not so cleanly in their peisons as the Otahe- 
 tians, surpassed them in one particular, of which there js pro- 
 bably no example among the other Indian nations. Every 
 house, or every hamlet, had places of this sort, so that no ordure 
 was seen on the ground. The refuse of their meals, the litter 
 and other dirt, was also put in regular heaps, which they pro- 
 bably made use of as manure. These Indians were at that time 
 farther advanced in this article of police thau a nation which is 
 •ne of the most considerable in Europe. In the year l/fiO 
 there was not a privy in all Madrid, the capital of Spam, though 
 Ihe city was plentifully supplied with water. Before this epoch, 
 the inhabitants used to throw at night all their filth from their 
 windows into the streets, and a number of men were employed 
 to remove it to the extrtmity of the lower part of the city, where 
 it remained till it was dried, and was then loaded in carts and 
 c!wpo<e 1 of out of the gates of the city. The king, having re- 
 eolvcd to abolish this custom, made an edict, by which every 
 proprietor of a house was commanded to build places for the 
 purpose, and that sewers, sinks, and drains, should be made, and 
 fcept in repair ai the expence of the public. The Spaniards
 
 ACCOUNT OF MINORCA. o9 
 
 Idoked on this regulation as an infringement of the common rights- 
 of men, and strongly reiisted its being put in force. Every 
 class of the citizens made some objection to the edict. The 
 physicians remonstrated, and asserted, that if the ordure was 
 not thrown out as usual into the streets, that distempers would 
 infallibly ensiie : they pretended that the human body would 
 absorb the putrid particles of the air, which were attracted by 
 those ordures. This opinion, embraced by most of those who 
 were proprietors, decided the situation of the privies in the 
 houses. They believed that the mass of ordure would prevent 
 the particles of foul air from fixing on other substances ; they 
 therefore have their privies near their kitchens, that their victuals 
 may be kept wholesome. 
 
 A great part of the poor inhabitants of Majorca live in a sort 
 of cellars, or caves, where there is neither light nor air, except 
 from the entrance. They are generally damp, and the want of 
 fresh airs add to the unhealthiness of these cavities. From this 
 cause proceeds an infinite number of distempers and sudden 
 deaths ; and, in the winter, the inhabitant shuts himself up m 
 his den, lights the fire in his brasier, and endeavours to find 
 comfort in a place where he only meets his destruction from the 
 vapours which have no vent. 
 
 - ! 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 SITUATION— EXTENT— COAS T — AND ANCHORAGE OF THE 
 
 ISLAND OF MINORCA. 
 
 ' • ■ ■ . . 
 
 M- ■•: 
 INORCA is the second of the Balearic Isles. It takes its 
 name from its lesser size ; it runs W. N. W. and E. N. E. der 
 scribing a parallelogram. From the Cape to la Mola, the E. N. E. 
 to that of Minorca de Ciutadella, they count at least €5 miles in 
 length; the width of the island varied from eight to 12 miles: 
 Minorca is situated to the E. N. E. of Majorca. The strait 
 which separates them in the point where the shores are nearest,' 
 is at most tw.o miles and a quarter wide. From Mdnt Toro de 
 Minorca, the highest point in the island, and from Cape de 
 Ciutadella, the land of Majorca is plainly discerned. The dis- 
 tance to the nearest point of the shores of Catalonia is.estimated 
 to be about 145 miles N. W. i W. of Buges, in Africa.- They
 
 56 s t. s a u v k M *'s- rn a v els* 
 
 reckon ISO -mitt s north. M inorca w in the latitude 40° 4 1' 4 5 ', 
 aid 10" 4& \61 bncitude cast of Cadiz. 
 
 • The iskind of Minorca is in general level, and has. only one 
 mountain of. an cxuaoidi'iarv height : this mountain, called Mont 
 
 . is situated m the: middle of the *fUnd, which it QtWeffc 
 on evev side. The principal hfMMM ^ Minorea are those of 
 Mhhon to the east, of Fornels iofflfc, north, aniofCiutadoila to 
 tie west. 
 
 '1 lit; iiiast'.qoBspicuoiw point* and promontories are the point 
 des Corps," the cape of -A i tuck, the cape of Minorca or Bayoli,» 
 the p.niit la Sella, cape Caballeria, o?. NajicfclJ.es, that of Tava- 
 aitK, and cape la Mola, yf . Mahou; between these there are- 
 other points and promontories that do. i^>t project near so far 
 rjtto the Sea. A 
 
 To enter ih* .port of Mahon with the wind abaft, we must 
 keep the middle of the passage till we liatfe doubled the point- 
 Plullipet,] winch we leave to the starboard, and to the larboard 
 the point on which was built the famous castle of, Saint-Phil- 
 Upet. -When they have doubled these two points* sbip> of the, 
 Wge>t si/e may range the coapt on each, side the; port. The 
 soundings aie live fathoms near the shore, and increases to tw ft] | 
 and eighteen in the middle of the port. How ever, they gtne-r 
 rally make their course to the south, as they pass between the 
 shore and the island on which the Lazaretto is built. 
 
 In making the road Pedrera, in a ship or frigate, it is abso- 
 lutely necessary to keep t6Tthe"soullT, and between the southern 
 shore and the Isles de Re., or of the Isle of Hospital, and of the 
 Redonda, which is only a small island. Ships may also pass 
 between this island and that of the Lazaretto ; but although five 
 talhorns are found in the northern part of this little stiait,Jt is vj 
 harrow, that it n'-quires a perfect knowledge of the passage to 
 venture through it. To the E. Kl fe. of trie island, there is a 
 a shoal with twenty- four feet of water only, upon which ships 
 have gryuadt <J diat have anchored to the south of this shoal. 
 
 With jh< wind at south, and having doubled the Isle of JaW 
 Hospit;^ i^nd the small islaml, vessels are safe in port, and m;n*> 
 remain cU*r in shore on, either side, at, the distance of -ubeu% 
 hail a, u»^!<j* l«.ngt)i,as far as the southern part of the island, 
 1 I the machine to mast the ships. The an- 
 
 choiage if here,, seven or eight fathoms, good bottom mooring, 
 Wm.Wtm ulh-west. - 
 
 . Lnterm^^iili ih. wuid N. E. N. W. and S. VV. it is n« i 
 :o pakeje^ 1 ^ and avoid a shoal which runs out- to the sourU 
 ihc point of the Mola, about the third of a cable's , length * 
 V 1 H* WjU f U'Fj l * lc soundings are four fathoms ; but u little
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR NAVIGATORS. 57 
 
 ttier out there is a good bottom. There is another shoal which 
 runs out above half a cable's length to the south-east of the 
 point Phillipet ; at this distance the bottom is four or five fa- 
 thoms. Another shoal to the E. N. E. from the point of the 
 castle of Saint- Philip, runs out half a cable's length. With ever 
 so little sea, the breakers of these three shoals are seen, from 
 their beginning half way across ; but if there is a heavy sea, the 
 breakers are observed the whole length ; so that viewing the 
 three points sideways, the entrance of the port appears only one 
 continued reef. 
 
 • Near the middle of that part of the point where the castle of 
 St. Philip was built, which place is called the Redon, there 
 is another shoal which runs out to sea, about the third of a 
 cable's length ; the breakers are only seen when the wind blows 
 fresh N. and N. E. ; and when it is S. W. the entrance is 
 unsafe. When the wind is too strong to get within these shoals, 
 there is good anchorage on the outside of them, of 25 and SO 
 fathom, good bottom ; but it must be observed, that there is 
 here a high sea when the wind is north. 
 
 The Cape Mola, to the N.E. of the mouth of the har- 
 bour, is a high perpendicular promontory ; at the foot of which 
 are three rocks that may be approached without fear ; the 
 bottom clean. 
 
 N. N. W. quarter W. a mile and three quarters from the 
 Mola, is Cape Negro, thus named from its blackish appearance ; 
 it is not very high, and does not project far. Between the Mola 
 and another small point, is a creek called Los Freos ; near the 
 land are several rocks. 
 
 N. W. from Cape Negro, are two small creeks, called the 
 Old and New Mesquitas ; these are of no use. In frdnt are 
 two small rocks, called Mesquita and Bombarda, which re- 
 semble two vessels sunk. The creek which is most to the south 
 is not clean, and with ever so little sea the breakers are seen. 
 
 On this part of the coast the bottom is stony, and nothing 
 but a case of necessity would make any one anchor here ; where, 
 even in summer, they run the risk of losing their anchors ; and 
 in winter of being shipwrecked. 
 
 To the north of the Mesquita is the roadstead to Benillanti, 
 and the points la Galere and of Bufera, not at all remark- 
 able. 
 
 At about three quarters of a mile from Bufera, is seen 
 the island of Coloms ; it is of some height, and forms with the 
 coast a canal, through which only fishermens' boats can pass. 
 At its eastern and southern points are two smaller islands, and 
 a shoal which runs a cable's length into the sea, having only two 
 
 ST. sauveir.J H
 
 5§ ST. SAWEURS TRAVRLS. 
 
 fathom of water ; all the rest of the island of Coloms is clean. In 
 . -t. n |Mrt there is an anchorage, called Seselanes, proper 
 for vessel* o( a iHOtlt rate burthen. Before anchoring, a vessel 
 must make a little island near the land, called Arenal del Moro, 
 \.. ( : li after having passed, and left to the larboard, it may 
 moor in sax or seven fathoms, with an anchor to the N.W. 
 and cairying an hawser ashore to the S. E. In this anchorage 
 vessels are protected from every .wind except the N. W. which 
 brings a great deal of sea; but they ride safely with good cables. 
 Ships may anchor also in the S. E. part of the island with an 
 nuolror to the S. E. and by carrying an hawser to the N.W. 
 upon the island. The bottom in this place is sandy, and there 
 is six or seven fathoms. It is protected from every wind except 
 from the E. N. E. to the E. S. E. which raise a high sea, 
 enough to endanger small craft, which ride more safely in the 
 port of Grace, a little bay, which goes in shore to the W. S. VV. 
 where two points form the mouth of it : there are two shoals, 
 so that in entering, care, must be taken to .keep the middle of 
 the passage : it is guarded from every wind, but there is little 
 holding ground. 
 
 To anchor to the S. E. of thejsland of Coloms, it must be 
 remembered, that near the shore', at the southern point of the 
 anchorage, there is a little island, called Juida, between which 
 and the voast there is only a passage for small boats. This island 
 must be left to the larboard, and, after having doubled it, a 
 ncint of land is observed, called Fray Bernat, where immediately 
 Degins the beach ; before arriving at which is the anchorage. 
 
 At a mile and a half to the N. N. W. of the island of Coloms 
 is Cape Musegne Vives; it is high and steep, but doe? not go 
 far into the sea. To the E. N. E. of this cape a shoal runs out 
 near three quarters of a mile, having but six fathoms at the ex- 
 tremity. '1 he coast then forms a large cove, or creek, almost 
 a3 far as cape Tavaritz. 
 
 This cape is low at tlje extremity : seen from the distance of 
 three leagues at sea; it has the appearance of three small islands; 
 it jnts out considerably, aud the land raises gradually from the 
 extremity of the cape. 
 
 Three miles and a half to the W. one quarter N. W. of Cape 
 Tavaritz, are the isles and port of Adaia, and the roadstead 
 of Molina. 
 
 The greater island of Adaia runs N. E. and S. W. ; the smaller, 
 which is the lower, N. and S. The first is a little mountainous 
 on the northern side, but the two otl*ers are very level. To go 
 into the port of Adaia, ships must make the western shore, 
 which is called JSwucous; this coast is clean. Thus all the
 
 DESCRIPTION OP MAHQN. 59 
 
 islands are left to the larboard, and having doubled that which 
 is in the middle of the port, they anchor in four fathoms, op- 
 posite the mouth of the creek Molins, which is to the west of 
 the little interior island. If they would go farther into the port 
 of Adaia, which hardly merits the name of a harbour, and the 
 mouth which is very narrow, and will only admit small vessels, 
 they pass the small interior island, and may then moor in any 
 part. This port runs in shore about a mile to the S. E. ; it has 
 seven fathoms water at the entrance ; but at the distance of 
 a cable's length toward the shore of Noucous, it decreases 
 to three fathoms. It has four fathoms at the mouth of the 
 creek of Molins. 
 
 To the south-east of the greater island, at about half a cable 
 distance, is another small round island, called Aguila. 
 
 The port of Fornels is perfectly sheltered, and can receive into 
 its harbour vessels of every size. The mouth is narrow but clean, 
 having from 17 to 20 fathoms of water. 
 
 There are numerous other creeks and harbours on this coast, 
 of little consequence to navigators, as none but small craft can 
 £nd anchorage i» them,. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF THE TOWN OF MAHON AND THE SUR- 
 ROUNDING COUNTRY. 
 
 1 HE island of Minorca is divided into four small provinces, 
 or districts, called Terminos. The first of these has Mahon for 
 its principal town. Its territory is surrounded by the sea on three 
 sides, and terminates on the side of the land at Alayor. Its 
 population, which is from 16 to 18,000 souls, is distributed ilk 
 the town of Mahon ; the suburb of Saint Charles, called Ravalle 
 Neuf ; *he villages of Saint Louis, Biniatap, and about one hun- 
 dred and forty farms, or country houses. Mahon, the principal 
 town of this district, is at the same time the capital of the island, 
 a prerogative which is disputed by the town of Ciutadella ; this 
 livalship, founded on ridiculous pretensions, has been hurtful to 
 the general good. 
 
 Mahon is builf on the shore, to the left of the entrance into 
 the port, and is seated on high rocks ; it overlooks two harbours, 
 and has a sufficiently picturesque appearance. Owing to its ele- 
 vation, the inhabitants of the town enjoy a wholesome atmo» 
 
 h2 
 
 O
 
 60 st. sauveur's travels. 
 
 sphere, and they are there less tormented with musquitoes than in 
 the rest of the island. This species of insect abounds during the 
 heat of the summer, and its sting occasions a great deal of smart 
 and inflammation. 
 
 Several of the rocks which support the city of Mahon, being 
 hollowed beneath the habitations, have a frightful appearance to a 
 spectator, who imagines at every instant the immense fragments, 
 undermined by the ocean, falliqg with a dreadful crash, and, 
 overturning every thing in their way. One cannot help lament- 
 ing the indifference of the Mahonese to the dangers with which 
 they are daily threatened : nothing can be m,ore astonishing than 
 the security which the inhabitants of such miraculously suspended 
 tenements seem to entertain. 
 
 The court of Spain has, however, given orders that these dan- 
 gerous rocks should be blown up ; but, like many others, those 
 orders were never obeyed, Thus, the wisest intentions of the 
 government are but too often of no effect, owing to the interested 
 conduct of a few individuals, particularly in those parts which 
 are so remote from the eye of the sovereign. 
 
 The houses are generally built with some neatness and taste, 
 but ill contrived and inconvenient within. Some of them are 
 tiled ; others have a flat roof like a terrace. The material of 
 which these terraces are made is aUo used for the floors of the 
 apartments : it consists of a very strong kind of fossil cement. 
 Almost all the houses have vaulted cellars. In digging these sub- 
 terranean apartments, they find large stones, which are used in 
 building the houses. 
 
 The thickness of these arches varies according to the weight 
 they have to support ; they are always begun at the four corners 
 of the space intended to be covered. The method of support- 
 ing theiu while they are making is very curious : the workmen 
 do not make use of arched stays, or props, that the vault may 
 be made with any particular exactness, but they owe the ease 
 with which they complete their work to the nature of the cement, 
 which serves instead of those helps that in other countries must 
 be resorted to. After having hewn, with care, the stone they 
 are about to use, they place it where it is to remain, and 
 support it in the air with a simple pole ; they then put mortar 
 round the joints, leaving a hole on the top to receive the cement, 
 which is kept in a fluid state, that it may spread instantly into 
 every crevice. One of the properties of this cement is to harden 
 immediately, and to fasten strongly; the stone* being thus united, 
 the pole, or support, is no longer necessary, and is removed 
 »iii' I. r another stone. The vault is thus finished in very little 
 tuns:. \Y hen they &fe tiling the roofs of the houses, they raisa
 
 • Am 
 
 METHOD OF TILING HOUSES. 01 
 
 on the middle of that part which is to he the loft, a light beam, 
 on which is placed the upper ends of the rafters, while the lower 
 ends rest on the side walls. These rafters are placed about two 
 feet distant from each other, and are almost always crooked and 
 knotty, as they make use of the growth of the country, which, 
 produces but little wood that is fit for carpenter's work. 
 They do not use laths, but fill up the spaces between the rafters 
 with a sort of reeds, which grow in the island in great abundance, 
 and which much resembles those used in the manufacture of 
 cloth. These reeds, bound together, answer the purpose of 
 laths extremely well, and they are of great durability. Never- 
 theless, they do not form a body strong enough or close enough 
 to place the tiles on ; these defects are remedied by spreading 
 over them a bed of clay : when this is dry, it is tiled and finished. 
 The form of these tiles is singular ; they are first formed in the 
 shape of a pipe, or tunnel, a little bigger at one end than the 
 other ; they are then cut through the middle, lengthways, which 
 makes two tiles. They are placed, first a range on the convex 
 side, laying the upper tile about two or three inches over the 
 edge of the under one ; thus the hollow part of these tiles are 
 uppermost ; they then put another range w ith the concave side 
 undermost, so that they lock one in another. All the joinings 
 are then filled up with the mortar. The roofs have only as much 
 slope as is necessary to let the rain-water run off. 
 
 The stone is of an excellent quality ; it is easily hewn, and be- 
 comes much harder as it is exposed to the air. They are not 
 obliged to dig deep for this stone ; it is found in great plenty 
 near the surface of the earth, and is taken out in pieces which 
 they call cantons, that are tw o feet in length by one in width and 
 beigbth. This stone is not liable to split, and is consequent!/ 
 well suited for fortifications. 
 
 Fire-stone is also very abundant and equally good. 
 The cement that I have already mentioned, is called girisch- 
 It is a kind of gypsum, of rather a greyish colour ; it is of a 
 moderate hardness, more or less transparent, according as it is 
 found whiter or greyer ; it is extracted from the earth by means 
 of pits dug a little distance one from the other. It is calciued 
 before it is used, and it is tempered in a quantity of water, ac- 
 cording to the use for which it is intended ; its contact with the 
 water pccasious. a violent fermentation, which abates by little and 
 Jittle. 
 
 The Minorcans have followed the English manner of making 
 their windows slide with two sashes, one sliding up on the other, 
 which, as only one half can be open at a time, prevents the free 
 circujatipn of ||ie air j the frames are generally loosened in the
 
 (38 *T. SAUVBuVs TRAVELS. 
 
 grooves, and hare another great inconvenience attending them, 
 for, with ever so little wind, the play of the frames occa ions a disa- 
 greeable noise; and they are obliged to fix them with little wedges, 
 which they place between thegroo.e aud the frame; while there 
 are always openings through winch the air iinds a way, which is 
 very uncomfortable in the winter season. 
 
 The Minorcans have adapted the use of chimneys, but the 
 prater part of them are badly built and very subject to smoke. 
 The Spanish hearth is preferred to then), as it is more economi- 
 cal in a country not abounding with fire-woods. 
 
 The luxury of wainscots or hangings has not yet found its way 
 to Minorca; they content themselves with white-washing their 
 rooms, which they also adorn with pictures and engravings. I 
 belieVe farther, that this custom is congenial with the warm cli- 
 mate of the country. The naked walls give an agreeable fresh- 
 arse, which the islanders prefer to tlie decorations which would 
 deprive them of it. 
 
 Every house has cisterns cut in the rock, and lined with an ex- 
 cellent cement. The water which falls on the leads is conducted 
 tbither by pipes. After the rains they let the first shower ron off, 
 which is loadtd with all the dirt of the leads and terraces. When 
 the cistern is full, they leave the water some time to settle before 
 msing it. To purify it, they throw into the cistern three or 
 four live eels, or sometimes they use a little broom made of 
 sprigs of green myrtle. If these methods, which ordinarily suc- 
 ceed, be insufficient, they have recourse to emptying the cistern) 
 lo clean it : these cisterns are generally of a spherical form. 
 
 The people of Mahon value themselves particularly for 
 cleauiiness and neatness in their houses : one of the principal 
 occupations or their servants is to whiten the exterior, and to, 
 scower the stairs and floor, at least once in the week. 
 
 Mahon does not contain any public building that is worthy the 
 notice of the traveller. 
 
 The governor's house, built on the rocks which surround the 
 port, has nothing extraordinary. The apartments are of a good 
 ante, but so badly contrived that most of them are scarcely ha- 
 bitable. They have been built by different governors, who have 
 successively inhabited the mansion, and who consulted only the 
 convenience of the moment. The secretary, who has apart- 
 ments in this building, generally prefers hiring a house for him- 
 sx If. or apartments in the town. 
 
 The town-hall is a small building, having a ground floor and 
 one story ; the last is composed of a kind of vestibule, and a 
 large hall with three balcony windows next the street. Over the 
 front, which has nothing remarkable, is placed a clock. There
 
 MONASTERIES AT MAHON 65 
 
 is a flight of stone steps up to the entrance, which Has an 
 iron gate. That part of the building which is level with the 
 ground, is the prison, and the habitation of the gaoler. This 
 place of confinement is veiy small, very damp, and very urt*- 
 wholesome. Of those, who art- so unhappy as to be kept there 
 for ever so short a space oi tune, few leave the place without 
 rheumatic pains, or other distempers, very difficult to be cured. 
 This gaol, originally designed only for those suspected or 
 accused, but not condemned, is really a place of punishment, 
 where the sufferings of the prisoners are increased by the cruelty 
 and rapaciousness of those inhuman beings who have the charge 
 and care of tbern. 
 
 Besides the parish church, there are at Mahon three monaste- 
 ries. The first, of Carmelites, was founded in 169O ; the second 
 belongs to friars of the order of St. Francis, aed was built in 
 the year 1459- The Capuchins Inhabit ihe third. They settled 
 at Mahon, in the year lG2fl. 1 visited the two first of these 
 convents, but found nothing worth describing; the third is a 
 retreat inaccessible to all but the inhabitants. 
 
 Mahon has also an hospital, which was founded about forty 
 -years back ; it is exclusively for the relief of the Minorcans, 
 and may contain fifty or sixty patients, who are attended by 
 men under the direction of a physician and surgeon, who are 
 paid by the city. The apothecary's shop is small and ill pro- 
 vided with drugs; but the greatest misfortune is the extreme 
 ignorance of the practitioner. The negligence of every thing 
 that can afford mitigation of the sufferings of the sick, is incon- 
 ceivable. The first that offers himself is employed as doctor, if 
 he has the address, on his debut, to cure a patient by leaving hint 
 entirely to nature and the goodness of his own constitution, his 
 reputation is established, and from thenceforward he may trifle 
 with the lives of his fellow-citizens with impunity, and rob them 
 at the same time. Those who prepare the medicines ordered by 
 these pretended Esculapii, are not less to be feared> as they 
 sometimes add deception to ignorance, of which I can give an 
 instance from my own experience.^ 1 was recovering from a 
 serious illness ; there only remained a degree of fever, for which 
 I was ordered to take bark. A friend made me a present of a 
 packet of this drug, of a very superior quality ; I sent it to an 
 apothecary to reduce it to powder, and divide it into equal parts. 
 My gentleman would not lose so fine an opportunity of getting a 
 good name for his shop 3 he appropriated my bark to cure his town 
 patients, and sent me some in place of it that was good for 
 nothing, I was obliged to the generosity of my friend f<^ a
 
 C4 ST. SAUVEUR S TRAVELS; 
 
 ■econd -supply, or probably I might have endured my fever for 3 
 considerable time. i 
 
 Mahon has no public establishment tor education. The young 
 •f both sexes are left to themselves. For certainly a few bad 
 schools do not merit the name of seminaries;— where the most 
 ignorant school-masters and monks teach as much wrong as 
 ii<>ht in the grammatical lessons of children, and pretend to 
 explain the classic authors, which very often they themselves do 
 not understand. Most part of the time of the class is spent in 
 repeating, in a drawling tone, the rosary and some other prayers. 
 This is what they call forming the minds of youth. Neither can 
 one give the title of schools to those places where old devotees 
 teach young girls to read, sew, of knit ; all the accomplishments 
 they themselves possess. Most part of the time is spent at 
 prayers. It is impossible for a stranger to imagine how very 
 deficient the people of M inorca are of every means to cultivate the 
 winds of youth, although the place has successively, and for a great 
 number of years, belonged to two of the most enlightened nations 
 ©f Europe. All that the Mahonese have retained of the 
 customs of the English, consists in giving a more agreeable 
 exterior to their habitations, and in altering their simple but 
 characteristic costume. Unfortunately, they have but too well 
 copied part of the vices and follies of the nation which they 
 look for a model. 
 
 At the time when Toulon was re-taken by the republicans, 
 part of the inhabitants of that unfortunate city was obliged to 
 seek safety in flight, and many families took refuge at Mahon. 
 The arrival of these new neighbours presented a resource to the 
 islanders. They might have profited by the talents and intelli- 
 gence of their unhappy visitors, by offering them, in their mis- 
 fortunes, an honourable means of earning a livelihood. I ought 
 here to acknowledge, that the Mahonese have not to reproach 
 themselves with the neglect of putting to use, in the instruction 
 of their children, these resources, as valuable as unexpected. 
 But the voice of authority was opposed to this inclination ; and 
 there are only a few rich . individuals who made choice of in- 
 structors from among these emigrants, and confided to them the 
 education of the young branches of their families. 
 
 The streets of Mahon are generally narrow and crooked: 
 most of them are steep and paved with flint stones, which makes 
 tbem very uneasy to-the walker, particularly when it rains. 
 
 There are not any public promenades ; for it would be an 
 abuse of the term, to give the name to a small walk, planted with 
 trees, at the lower end of the towu, on the strand of the port.
 
 TARADE AND HARBOUR. '65 
 
 This walk is called the alameda. The trees do not thrive, for the 
 sea air and the north winds insensibly cause their decay; and 
 they are left without' the least car.e. There is in this walk a 
 large cistern, from which the neighbouring inhabitants are 
 supplied with water : there is also a watering place for horses. 
 The alameda is but little frequented : the preference is generally 
 given to a walk in the fields, or on the shore of the port. 
 
 The city of Mali on was formerly surrounded with a wall. 
 There are still to be seen some remains; of one of the gates; it is 
 now within the city, and serves, as entrance to one of the new 
 streets, called the Old Kavalle, to distinguish it from the New 
 Kavalle, which is a suburb situated on the road to Mahon, at 
 Fort St. Charles. These remains' of the wall belong to the time 
 when Minorca was subject to the Moors. 
 
 The parade is large, and forms a square, with irregular houses 
 on three sides, and on the fourth the barracks, a tolerable hand- 
 some building, two stories high ; in the front of which is a long 
 court, made use of to call together the troops, and to examine 
 the arms aferl accoutrements. Before this court is a row of trees 
 stunted in growth, as in general they do not thrive in this island. 
 The barracks are divided into small rooms, each of which may con- 
 tain about twenty men. At the back of these are the kitchens, 
 separated from the body of the building by another court, or yard. 
 Twelve hundred men may be lodged in these barracks, which 
 would be more complete if they had added a residence for the 
 officers. It stands on uueven ground, an inconvenience which 
 might easily be remedied, and which alteration would make 
 the troops appear with more regularity when under arms. 
 
 The detachment of cavalry, maintained at Mahon, are quar- 
 tered, and have their stables, in an old building in the heart of 
 the city : this habitation is dreadfully gloomy, 
 
 The artillery is divided into different corps, which keep guard 
 at the batteries of the fort. 
 
 The port of Mahon is undoubtedly one of the surest and safest 
 in the Mediterranean, and can contain a very numerous fleet, hi. 
 this harbour are four small islands, very near the shore, on the 
 right of the entrance. The first is called the Isle du Roi, which 
 name, accordiug to a tradition of the country, it acquired from 
 king Don Alphonso landing at that place, when he came to at- 
 tack the island of Minorca, in the year 1287- The size of this 
 island may be about twelve acres. In 1711, Sir J. Yemmings,- 
 the admiral of the English fleet in the Mediterranean, built here- r 
 an hospital for the navy ; that which is now on the spot was be- 
 gun in the year 1773, and finished in 1776, and cost four hun- 
 dred thousand reals. It is for the reception of both soldiers and 
 
 ST. SATJVEUR.T 1
 
 <JG ST. SAliVECR's TKAVF.I.S. 
 
 sailors. This edifice stands in a very advantageous situation ; is 
 large, very air}-, and forms three sides of a handsome square court : 
 the'se three sides arc separate buildings. The two lateral sides 
 are terminated by two small houses, which arc divided into sepa- 
 rate rooms; these houses have each a small garden; one of them 
 Is the residence of the governor of the hospital, and the office 
 for business. In the other is the apothecary's shop and surgery, 
 and the apartments for the officers of health. Opposite the hos- 
 pital are two small building*, tvhere the bedding, linen, &c. &c. 
 are kept. Behind these is another, which is divided into two 
 long rooms, where bedsteads and other goods and utensils arc 
 deposited. 
 
 At the time of the arrival of the Spanish squadron, command- 
 ed by.M. de Langara, coming from Toulon after its evacuation 
 by the Knglish, this general brought and placed here nearly three 
 hundred sick persons. 
 
 The hospital is rather damp : three wells dug in the court sup- 
 ply it with Water. The sick are divided into thirty-six small 
 ward*, each containing thirteen or fourteen beds ; ibut there is 
 room enough for twice the number. Kaeh -sick person has a bed 
 to himself, and they are distributed according to the nature of 
 their complaints. A covered gallery, supported by pillars, sur- 
 round the building. On the centre of the front is a cloe!:. The 
 Btirgery is small but convenient ; the kitchens, and offices belong- 
 ing to them, appear to me to be on rather too small a scale, ac- 
 cording to the size of the hospital, ami want' several conveniences ; 
 for example, there is no bakehouse. I tasted the soup, bread, 
 wine, &c. and found them much better than I expected. 
 
 This hospital, at the time 1 visited it, was almost stripped of 
 every thing. The-English, in evacuating Minorca, had only left 
 there the portrait x>f Commodore Harrison and Rear Admiral 
 Peters, which were placed in one of the wards. The Spa- 
 niards did not think proper to preserve these two paintings. 
 
 The Intendant of Balearcs, on his arrival at Mahon, set about 
 trduishing this hospital. He found it without any funds, and 
 proposed tp a person to furnish the necessaries for the use of the 
 establishment, at a certain price. This individual, who had sup- 
 plied the hospital before tl»e last invasion of the island by the 
 Knglish, refused to accept the proposal ; offering, at the same 
 time, to provide every thing from his own proper purse, with- 
 out interest for three months. The proposition was accepted, 
 'lliis generosity appeared to me to be an ingenious speculation. 
 It had been Indeed a very rare example of singular virtue in a 
 man, who had acquired a fortune with a rapidity truly surprising, 
 to believe that he was thus making a sort of restitution. J rather
 
 OYSTER FISHING. $7 
 
 think the motive of his zeal might be the hope of recompense 
 in some shape or other. 
 
 Almost opposite the island of the hospital, and on that side of 
 the port where the town is situated, is a cavity called the ovste« 
 cavern, because of the quantity of oysters found there ; it is hol- 
 lowed out of the rock* exposed to the N. E. and sheltered from; 
 the sun. The coolness of this place dm • nig- the summer, engage* 
 many parties to make promenades thither, where they are 
 amused by the fishing for oysters, which is generally done by, 
 Spanish seamen. The work requires two of them ; one strips 
 and fastens a hammer to his right hand, makes the sign of the 
 cross, recommends himself to his patron saint, and throws him-i 
 self into the sea. He dives sometimes ten or twelve fathoms to 
 find the oysters by the help of his hammer, loosens from the 
 rock as, many as he can bring up on his left arm ; then striking 
 with his foot, he ascends to the surface of the water. His com- 
 panion then takes his place, and performs the same manoeuvre. 
 They sometimes use other methods of fishing for oysters : in 
 those places which are not so deep, the fisherman is armed with 
 a long pole, at the end of which is fixed a kind of pincers, the 
 lower piece of which is steady while the other part moves ; it is 
 put in action by means of a string, or cord, fastened to its ex- 
 tremity. The fisherman pulls this cord to lay fast hold of the 
 oyster which he has rested on the under part of his piucers ; by 
 this method he brings up in an easier manner a larger quantity 
 than can be obtained by the first mentioned method. These 
 oysters are of two different qualities, red and white ; the first are 
 bad, but the last are excellent. They find also, in the same 
 place, a kind of shell-fish, called dates, I suppose from the 
 Greek word dactylos, finger, because of its form ; they are se- 
 parated with a hammer from the rocks, which appear almost on 
 a level with the water. 
 
 On the second small island is built the Quarantine, a small 
 edifice of two stories ; the first of which is composed of store- 
 rooms, shut with wooden gratings, to air the merchandise, which 
 is there deposited. The second is divided into divers apartments 
 for the accommodation of the passengers. A shabby hut serves 
 as an apartment for the officers of health. This quarantine can 
 receive but few goods, and a small number of people : those 
 only are admitted who have letters of health. 
 
 The ships performing quarantine anchor near the island. 
 On the third island, which joins the land of Minorca by a 
 small neck of sand, that is almost always covered by the*,waves, 
 is the Lazaretto, where passeugers and merchandises are only ad' 
 
 I 2
 
 6& ST. SATVEUPA TRAVElS. 
 
 mitted, arrivmg from countries suspected of being attacked bj 
 the plague, or other contagious distempers. 
 
 It is about twenty years since this establishment was begun, 
 on a very large scale, which promised to embrace every advan- 
 tage that the situation of ihe port of Mahon offered, in 1804, 
 there was only the fourth part of it built ; nevertheless, there was 
 already room for a Considerable quantity of merchandize, and 
 ♦very convenience for a lajge number of passengers. The want 
 of funds interrupted the work several times, and prevented this 
 L»2aietto from being finished, which, had the original plan been 
 entirely completed, would have been, without contradiction, one 
 of the finest in the Mediterranean. 
 
 • The English troops destined for the last expedition to Egypt, 
 having joined at Minorca,' lodged in this half-finished Lazaretto 
 near three thousand men. They only- added a prison to that 
 part which was already built by the Spaniards. 
 
 This establishment certainly will help to draw the island of 
 Minorca from its present languid stale. Its commercial connec- 
 tions cannot be much increased, as it has no produce to give in 
 exchange for those articles which they have from other Countries. 
 Nature seems to have made amends to this island for the want of 
 local wealth, by ports, which being the resort of every commer- 
 cial nation in the Mediterranean, must necessarily become to the 
 Minorcausa source of ease and plenty. 
 
 Spain with all her maratime possessions, has not a single 
 Lazaretto. Her ships coming from the Levant, or from Ame- 
 rica, when the yellow fever or plague rages, are obliged to per- 
 foim quarantine at Marseilles, Leghorn, or Malta. 'I he Lazaietto 
 at Mahon saves a considerable expense to commerce and Spanish 
 navigation: at any rate, it is more natural that these sums should 
 be expended in a port belonging to the same kingdom. The 
 establishment of this Lazaretto should have been accompanied by 
 the circumstance of making the port free. Jt would have been 
 the most certain means of preventing the loss to which they are 
 still liable, by the clandestine introduction of foreign merchan- 
 dize. This privilege would, at the same time, draw to Mahon 
 the merchantmen who traffic on this coast. They might thus 
 insensibly e*>tablish a commerce of re-exportation, of which this 
 port would be the mart. As in good policy, the freedom and 
 good of the people are the true riches of a kingdom, I do not 
 thin' . ie government of Spain would have to regret the sacrifice 
 of the duties which it deducts from the commerce of an island, 
 whose connections and resources are so confined. The Minorcans 
 desire this advantage, but their hopes are opposed by the rival- 
 ship of those Spanish ports which are contiguous; and more par-
 
 LOCAL ADVANTAGES OF MINORCA. 69 
 
 ticularly by those of.the Majorcans. Tliese selfish neighbours, 
 consulting only their own individual interest, forgetting the gene- 
 ral convenience of the merchants of every nation, which was the 
 chief object of the erection of the Lazaretto at Mahon, see nothing 
 in this establishment but the cause of the destruction of their trade. 
 Mahon, as a wee port, would present advantages to navigators 
 which might induce them to neglect those*places to which they 
 Usually carry their goods, and which would then only receive 
 them at second hand. 'Fear gave birth to the desire of seeing the 
 port of Mahon always full. They insist on the specious argu- 
 ment, that that measure could alone insure them the peaceable 
 possession of an island always regarded with a wishful eye by the 
 powers of the North ; alike jeajous of extending their power in 
 the Mediterranean. They calculate on the facility with which 
 Minorca has successively been subjugated by the English and 
 the French, and particularly by the first of them ; for whom they 
 rax the Mahonese with «n attachment bordering on fanaticism. 
 Would it be believed, that a conduct so fatal to the general good 
 of Minorca, should be entertained even by a part of its inhabit- 
 ants ? Would it be believed, that the citizens ofCiutadella have 
 had the folly to oppose the solicitations of the Mahonese for a 
 benefit, the advantages of which they would have shared ? Would 
 it be believed, that proceedings as unpatriotic as absurd, were 
 occasioned by jealously that is really pitiable ? that of antient 
 Ciutadella, which, from its situation, has no consequence, being 
 alarmed at the future prosperity of a rival, which would, by means 
 of those advantages, become the capital of the island ; a prero- 
 gative which they have constantly contended for. 
 
 Could vain and ridiculous declamations prevent the natural 
 effects resulting from the excellence of its local situation, so well 
 adapted to draw thither merchants, seamen, and strangers, 
 would not this city inevitably become the residence of the prin- 
 cipal officers of the government, and the seat of the different 
 tribunals ? This rivalship has long appeared to me to be a mere 
 chimera, which i should never have believed to have existed, if 
 I had not had repeated proofs of it from my own observation. 
 However, demonstration will always, in the end, convince the 
 most obstinate. The magistrates of Ciutadella are at last united 
 to those of Mahon, and of other municipalities. They, in 1804, 
 renewed their joint solicitation, to accelerate the finishing the 
 Lazaret of Mahon. The arrival of divers vessels of the Spanish 
 king, in this port, with crews attacked by the yellow fever, and 
 obliged to perform quarantine, furnished them with a favourable 
 occasion, by which they have wisely profited. 
 
 The ravages of the contagion which prevailed in Spain, have
 
 70 ST. SAVVEUR S TRAVELS, 
 
 induced the government lo assign the nee essary funds to com- 
 plete this Lazaret ; the indispensable necessity of vvliich has been 
 established. This establish nieut may now be used, but they 
 should not any longer defer appointing the officers of health. 
 
 For want of proper care, I have seeu two persons die in this 
 Lazaretto, one of whom was a general officer, and this aj the time 
 when they had reason to fear the commuuieation of the yellow 
 U ?i r. I'll, -e deaths spread the alarm in the city ; and it was 
 vith difficulty that the fears raised on the occasion were made to 
 subside, and tha suspicion removed, Uiat the calamity was 
 caused by the yellow fever. The fact w as, that they had neglects 
 ed sending any physician. * 
 
 Opposite to the isle of the Lazaretto, on. the left shore of the 
 port, is the town of St. Charles, or the New Ravalje ; it is en- 
 tirely inhabited by seafaring men, who live by fishing on the 
 coajsts of the island. There is here nothing worthy of note, ex> 
 cept the barracks, which are built with stone : the three sides of 
 these barracks, with the common house, or hall, form a square, 
 where a battalion can exercise. These barracks are on a larger 
 plan, and better built, than those of the city. Here are two 
 houses, or pavillious, for the officers. These barracks will con- 
 tain llyee thousand foot- soldiers. The English built behind the 
 common house, above the shore of the port, another part, of 
 one story, and about two huudred feet in length, where two huu- 
 I men may be lodged. 
 
 The K malic is situated half way from Mahon to the castle of 
 St. Charles ; at present (here only remains the place wlicre was 
 situated this fortress, formerly so famous under the name of St. 
 Philip. At lie time I visited l' i castle, in the month July, 
 in the year 1804, there only remained the rubbish of the antieut 
 fortifications, and the mines hollowedmnder all the extent of the 
 fort. Iu 1S0."5, the blowing up of these mines were finished. I 
 went through several of them, and they gave me a complete idea 
 <,( the strength and extent of the works which composed the fort 
 St. Philip. All these miues communicated one with another : 
 m viral outlets, on the side next the sea, facilitated the entrance 
 of r« inforcements of troops, aud of supplies of provisous and 
 ammunition. 'Hie English, when they last invaded the island 
 *>t Minorca, raised some works on the sea-side; but this was 
 only a line properly fortified, to defend or obstruct the entrance 
 oj vessels into the port, and capable of sustaining a siege. I saw 
 only twenty-four pieces of canuon, which were twenty-four 
 pounders, mounted on their carriages. These formed two bat- 
 teries on the bide next the sea, the fire of which crosses that of 
 a tower, called St. Phillipet, situated on the right of the port,
 
 POLITICAL OBSERVATION'S. £1 
 
 having above, a swivel with a large bore, and below, a battery of 
 four or five pieces, level with the water's edge. I saw scattered 
 here and (here between some heaps of balls and bombs of dif- 
 ferent sizes, several pieces of artillery out of service. I found 
 the several magazines entirely stripped, and even much damaged. 
 The English, as soon as they received orders to give up theisland 
 of Mmorca to the Spaniards, sold every thing, even to a email 
 stock of fire-w;od and coals, which the inhabitants of the Ra- 
 valle bought for almost nothing. The extent of the ground, oa 
 which was the ancient fort of St. Phillippe, is at least a league 
 in circumference. - The plan of the court of Spain seems to be 
 to leave only a few simple batteries to protect the entrance of the 
 port. They consist of 25 pieces of 18 and 24 pounder's^ the 
 lire of which crosses that of the tower and battery of PhiHipet, 
 which are on the Opposite shore. Of all the buildings enclosed 
 in fort St. PhiHippe, there remain only some small magazines i» 
 a bad state, which serve as guard-houses to the garrison. There 
 is still to be seen a handsome quarter, which is inhabited,- &ear 
 the cove St. Stephen, whither the supplies are brought in, wbkfi 
 arrive by sea. 
 
 From the batteries at St. Charles begins a carriage road, 
 which goes through the whole length of the island, and en#<i at 
 the city of Ciutadella. This road which is the only one in Mi-J 
 norca, is the work of Brigadier Cane ; the memory of this English 
 governor is preserved by an inscription engraved on the pedestal 
 of an obelisk which stands on this road as'y'6u leave Mah'on. 
 J At the time -'when the English came t6 invade Mirtokit'** 
 1?98, they made themselves sure of meeting very little resist- 
 ance from the Spaniards ; in fact, they effected their landing on 
 a most inconvenient part of the Coast, and where they could only 
 get into the island by passing through a narrow neck of land, 
 where the way was very difficult, particularly for the artillery : 
 two hundred men would have been sufficient to oppose tJnera. 
 from the heights which are on each side this passage. I have 
 nrvself been on the spot; where I learnt that the English, whose 
 number was scarcely three thousand, entered without the least 
 resistance on the part of a garrison which consisted of near sis 
 thousand Spaniards, not a single musket was fired ; the governor 
 m the end capitulated. 
 
 From the facility with which the English became possessed, 
 of Minorca, some people, ready to attribute e\evy misfortune, 
 without reflection, to the defects or faults of the Government, 
 seemed to doubt whether the loss of Minorca was occasion^ 
 more bv the inactivity of the Governor and commanders of the
 
 79 st. .sauvcuk's TRAVELS. 
 
 garrison, or by the consequences resulting from the machinations 
 ol the minister. 
 
 There is no doubf of the taking of Minorca, at this epoch, 
 having been a coup tie miiin: the English themselves confess, 
 without dissimulation," that they were uneasy at the apparent 
 destination of some troops which had joined in the island of Ma- 
 jorca. The inlf ntion of Spain seemed to be effectively to at- 
 tempt, at that time, to repossess themselves of an island so im- 
 portant to their iuterests. 
 
 At the ep»ch of the restitution of Minorca to the Spaniards, 
 according to the treaty of Amiens, M. de Viv6s, the Governor 
 general of the Balearic islands was ordered to take possession of 
 this isle. The general, in his eagerness to execute his commission, 
 thought it his duty to sacrifice to the interests of his sovereign, 
 every consideration of decorum. lie therefore embarked in 
 a merchant ship, hired at the moment, and took with him about 
 four hundred men of the garrison of Majorca, in some shabby 
 boats. It would probably have been more in character, in the 
 eyi-s of the English, if this general had made his appearance, 
 attended only by a division of the marines, and the islanders 
 would have been of the same opinion. 
 
 They also neglected, as soon as the treaty of peace was con- 
 cluded, to send commissioners to protect with peculiar caie 
 every thing which belonged to the place, and the different posts 
 in the island; from which neglect the arsenal and all the ma- 
 gazines were completely stripped. The English admiral, whose 
 duty it was to give up the island, had already embarked all the 
 artillery, and it was not without difficulty that the Spanish gene- 
 ral obtained its restitution. The matter was negotiated before 
 his departure by an officer who understood the English language, 
 who was sent from Talma to remain there until the restitution of 
 the island. 
 
 The arsenal of Mahon is built on the fourth of the small 
 inlands inclosed by the port; it is almost circular, situated high 
 up, in the front of the Down with which it commuuicates by a 
 wooden bridge on the side of the island of Minorca. This little 
 i>lc i-i inclosed by walls with square towers. The arsenal con- 
 tains several storehouses for cables, cordage, anchors, sails, masts, 
 kc. in one word for every thing incidental to a naval armament. 
 Tlie marine, commandant and the officers of the yards have 
 apartments in the arsenal. The ships can careen with a great 
 deal of ease at this place, and are laid down on a little mole, 
 where the proper capsterns for the purpose are placed; the 
 largest ships may go near enough to lay alongside of the sheer 
 hulk to get in their masts, which vessel is placed at the end of 
 — 3
 
 ARSENAL OF MAHON. 7? 
 
 the molo, several boat houses, built on piles, are made use of 
 to lay up the little armed cutters and other small vessels. 
 
 At a little distance from the arsenal, and upon the shore to the 
 right of the port, are stocks for building ships. The arsenal of 
 Mahon is at this day in the state in which it was left by the 
 English when it was restored to the Spaniards ; that is to say, in 
 a state of the most complete destitution. A vessel which had 
 suffered, whether by a storm or by an engagement, could not be 
 supplied with the smallest articles for repair. They are obliged 
 to wait for them from the arsenal at Carthagena, the nearest port. 
 The port of Mahon ought, however, at least to be able to provide 
 sails, jury-masts, cables, anchors, pitch, tar, &c. &c» to supply 
 the principal wauts of the service. It is not to be doubted, but 
 that the Mahonese could avail themselves with facility of the 
 greater part of the advantages which the port of Mahon presents; 
 whether by its situation, its size, or the safety of its harbour. Ma- 
 hon was formerly a military depot ; the Mahonese were acknow- 
 ledged as good ship builders ; several of the best frigates in the 
 service of Spain were launched from the dock-yards of Mahon. 
 The works of the arsenal employed a great number of excellent 
 mechanics, and afforded food to numerous families, plunged at 
 this day in the greatest distress, from the want of employ, or 
 who were compelled by necessity to expatriate themselves and 
 pursue their habits of industry elsewhere. Every thing proves 
 that it is as necessary, as it would be easy, to restore to IVfahon 
 its ancient activity. 
 
 Part of the arsenal has been used for the lodging of some of 
 the garrison troops of the island. It would be an imposition on 
 one's common sense, to believe that the neighbourhood of Car- 
 thagena occasions the neglect of port Mahon, which, in offering 
 advantages, perhaps equal to the other, has likewise that of a most 
 healthy climate. 
 
 The shores of the port Mahon form naturally a mole, which 
 might be completed at small expence. There are built store- 
 houses two stories high, the length of this mole, in which are 
 deposited cables, masts, cordage, sails, &,c. for the merchant 
 ships. Here is also the office of health aud the custom-house, 
 neither of which offer any thing particular. 
 
 It is not a great many years since the largest ships of war 
 could moor alongside the mole, so near as to place a ladder to 
 the shore : insensibly the earth has drifted down thither by the 
 rains. This inconvenience could be easily remedied by proper 
 machines. 
 
 There are two different roads to go up to the town ; the 
 shortest is of an acclivity extremely fatiguing ; in either road car- 
 
 ST. SAUVEUR.] K
 
 7* ST. salveur's travels. 
 
 ri;"rcs cannot be made use of, and the merchandize is transported 
 on the backs of mules ; it would be difficult to remedy this in- 
 convenience. The back part of the jttftght*! -houses is on the 
 steepest of these mounts, and the blood and tilth which is left, 
 to run down, adds to the disagrccablcncss of the road, an infec- 
 tion which could be easily prevented. 
 
 On the In lights of the hill which borders the right shore of the 
 port, a little distance from the cape Mola, is erected the Signal 
 'lower ; object* may be seen from it a great way, and it gives the 
 number and description of the ships seen off the coast, by balls 
 hoisted at the four angles of the tower, and by proper flags. 
 This tower has a communication with Mount Toro, situated a 
 little farther towards the center of the island: at night the signals 
 are by fire, which are very imperfect, and easy to be understood 
 by an enemy. They cannot afford particular intelligence, and 
 are far behind the telegraph in celerity, and these last were 
 established by the English on different points of the island ; the 
 Spaniards, on its being restored, found them ready prepared to 
 their hands : but, under the pretext of not knowing how to work 
 them, they had them taken down and put into the stores, where 
 llity have remained to perish. In circumstances like the present, 
 when precision, celerity, and secret signals, were so essential, 1 
 proposed the restoration of the telegraph. They made less 
 objection to the difficulty of finding intelligent and trusty people 
 lor the iervice required, than to the expence, although, assuredly, 
 of little consideration in comparison with the use and intelligence 
 of the telegraph. 
 
 The cape of the Mola is very high land, which is connected 
 to the island by a tongue of sand, which it would be easy to 
 separate, if it were wished to isolate the cape. To the north is 
 a little bay ; it is surrounded on all sides by frightful and inacces- 
 sible precipices, with the exception of that part which looks to 
 the poit of Mafaoa. The cape of the Mola is very high on this 
 side. The English masters of the island entertained the project 
 of profiting In the advantages which the cape of Mola offered, 
 to fortify it; but the war with Spain gave them too much occu- 
 pation to allow them to do more than think of it. 
 
 In leading the Memoirs of the Cardinal do Retz, one is asto- 
 nished at the brilliant description which he gives of the port of 
 Mahon : " Port Mahon," says this prelate, « is the finest in 
 the Mediterranean. The mouth of it is very narrow, and 
 i do not think that two galleys could pass it in rowing. It 
 becomes ti ider on a sudden, and" forms an oblong bason, half a 
 league ia length. Lofty mountains surround it on every side, 
 forming a theatre, which, from the number and height of the
 
 ACCOUNT OP ALAYOR. 76 
 
 trees with which they are covered, and from the streams which 
 rush from them in prodigious abundance, display a thousand and 
 a thousand pictures, which are, without exaggeration, mor« : /m- 
 chanting than the scenery of the Opera. These mountains, tr^cs, 
 and rocks, shelter the port from the wind; and, in times of (J &Ue 
 greatest storms, it is always as calm as the bason of a foun^ain^ 
 and as smooth as ice. Minorca also produces more meat, and 
 other provisions necessary for supplying the shipping, than Ma-r 
 jorca does of pomegranates, oranges, and leinous. In this de- 
 lightful place are all sorts of game, and abundauqe of fish." 
 
 It is a pity that the Cardinal de ; Retz, continuing -to give scope 
 io his imagination, has not given the picture of the palaces, edi- 
 fices, arsenals, and temples, of the city of Mahou. The happy 
 Minorca would have doubtlesj been much more admired than 
 those famous islands which were the delightful abodes of Circe 
 and Calypso. One can only lament that so many writers have 
 alike imposed on the credulity of the public. Of tire immense 
 number of descriptions in travels and voyages which arc daily read, 
 two thirds are the productions of the fanciful imagination of au- 
 thors who have depicted, with great effrontery, the riches, man- 
 ners, religions, costumes, and governments, of countries which 
 they have never seen. We punish with justice, the man who, 
 taking advantage of the ignorance of the buyer, sells tinsel for 
 gold. The daring falseholds of authors appear to me equally 
 deserving of reprcheusion. 
 
 The villages of Biniatap and Saint-Louis, depending on the 
 district of Mahon, offer no interesting particulars to engage the 
 notice of the traveller. On the feast of St. Louis there is, m the 
 village of that name, a small fair ; many of the inhabitants of 
 Mahon and the environs, go thither on parties of pleasure. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 DISTRICT OF ALAYOK, MERCADAL, AND FERERIAS. 
 
 -£ J^T the distance of eight or nine miles to the east of Mahou 
 is Alayor, the chief place of the second district of the island. 
 This territory is bounded to the W. S. W. by the sea, and to the 
 E. by the district of Mahon ; in other parts it is surrounded by 
 the districts of Mercadal and Fererias. It is said to be eight 
 miles in length and seven in breadth. The population, which is 
 
 K2
 
 7(J ST. fcAtiVEUft's TRAVELS. 
 
 «»npposed to amount to above 4000 souls, is distributed in the 
 little town or borough of Alayor, and in about 112 farms, or 
 coftritrV habitations. Alayor is situated on the left of the great 
 road which goes from one end to the other of the island, and 
 about a mile distant. This town* which is the next most con- 
 siderable to Mahon and Ciutadella, is situated on a hill. The 
 Jkfuses are well built ; but the streets are narrow, crooked, and 
 ill paved, and very fatiguing to foot-passengers. The parish 
 church of Alayor is of Gothic architecture, and appears to be 
 very ancient. There are but few wells in Alayor, but there is 
 no want of cisterns, the waters of which are fresh and wholesome ; 
 an advantage which is possessed in a superior degree by the 
 whole of this district. I went to see the common-hall, which 
 presented nothing remarkable : I saw there the portraits of the 
 Counts Cifuent£s and de Lannion; this last, who was lieutenant- 
 general in the French army, died in the island of Minorca, of 
 which he was governor, in the year 1762. He was buried in a 
 rhapel belonging to the parish of Mahon : an epitaph in the 
 .Latin language, engraved on black marble, is enchaced in the 
 wall above the sepulchre of this' general. This marble was placed 
 there by order of Louis the Fifteenth, in memory of his ser- 
 vices. 
 
 The first building which attracts the notice of the traveller on 
 entering Alayor, is a church, built with hewn stone : it is of 
 very simple architecture on the outside ; the interior, like the 
 other churches is ornamented with paintings and sculpture ; 
 among the ornaments of the latter description, are distinguished 
 the worts of a sculptor, who, without any master but his own 
 natural genius, or other models than the imperfect works of his 
 own countrymen, has sculptured several altars which have con- 
 .-ulerabh merit. There are some statues of his in wood, as large 
 as life; the proportions of which are exact, and the attitudes 
 natural and easy ; he was well acquainted with the different 
 orders of architecture, and excelled in the sculpture of the capi- 
 tals ; his taste was besides excellent in the ornamental part, the 
 fruit and foliage. 
 
 There is at Alayor a little well-constructed barrack, which can 
 contain from 200 to 2C5 men, and is assuredly one of the best 
 garrisons in the island. 
 
 The infirm and sickly are received into an hospital, which, 
 though of no considerable size, is sufficient for that part of the 
 population of Alayor. In general, the inhabitants of Minorca, 
 and above all, those of Mahon, consider as a calamity and de- 
 gradation, tven in the greatest indigence, the necessity of seek- 
 ing a refuge in au bo<pital, which presents them comforts of which
 
 PREJUDICES OF THE klNOSCANS. 77 
 
 they are deprived in the bosoms of their families. Jt is less offen- 
 sive to their delicacy to go into a prison, and though for some trivial 
 faults only, be mingled with the greatest miscreants. 1 had oc- 
 casion to witness this singularity in the character of the Minor- 
 cans : one of these islanders made a formal complaint of me to 
 government on this subject. Thrown into a dungeon, he had 
 fallen sick, and I used every endeavour to get him removed from 
 so unhealthy a place to facilitate his cure, ft was in agitation to 
 remove him to the hospital of the town, where he might have 
 received every attention necessary to his situation. This deter- 
 mination, which i was in hopes would be a consolation to the 
 islander, threw him into an excess of grief, which would cer- 
 tainly have increased his malady if I had not given up the idea, 
 and allowed him to return to his miserable habitation, to 
 encounter the risk of wanting every thing, or of receiving only 
 assistance from charity. To determine a Minorcan to go to the 
 hospital, he must actually have no other place to go to. It is 
 difficult to understand to what this ridiculous and fatal delicacy 
 is owing ; for these unfortunate beings often expose themselves 
 to the risk of perishing tor want, the victims of their prejudices. 
 I can more easily conceive their aversion for domestic servitude, 
 above all with strangers, setting aside the amour propre, which 
 prevails generally in the character of islanders. They do not con- 
 sider servitude as a situation that leads to any thing ; and in that 
 they are nearly right. A young man cannot hope to marry if 
 he has not an independent business ; whilst his fortune depends 
 on the caprice of a master, it is at best but precarious ; 
 thus it is with difficulty they find a voluntary servant. This 
 branch of industry is reserved to the women only ; they are in 
 general but bad domestics for strangers unused to the customs 
 of the place. 
 
 The inhabitants of the country can scarcely be persuaded to 
 call in a physician until the last extremity, and often not until it 
 is too late. I should not blame this prejudice, if it proceeded 
 from the fear of falling into the hands of a quack, who would 
 bring them to the grave, and not from the apprehension of in- 
 curring an expence, the sparing of which might cost their lives. 
 In reflecting on the situation of the country people, and on what 
 concerns their health, an idea occurred to my mind, on which I 
 have always dwelt with particular satisfaction. Why, I have 
 said to myself, abandon entirely to nature the most valuable part 
 of the people ? Why should not the ministers, who hate the 
 care of the souls of their parishioners, occupy themselves with 
 watching over their health ; their functions leave them plenty of 
 leisure, and they could employ themselves to advantage in ob-
 
 78 st. sauveur's travels. 
 
 laining the first principles of a science which would enable them 
 to arrest the progress of distempers that become incurable only 
 from neglect. Should these pastors blush at resembling the 
 heroes oi* Greece, who, in the tumult of armies, cultivated and 
 exercised the sublime arts pf lisculapius and Machaon i Would 
 a virtuous priest, pouring the balm of the Levite upon the 
 -wounds of his brother, be a less interesting picture than Achilles 
 binding up, with his own triumphant hands, the wounds of the 
 fallen hero at his side ? Would Philoctetus, cured by the divine 
 hand of Machaon, present a more touching scene than that of 
 the father of a family receiving life from the pastor who gives 
 him his blessing. Authors, who are as much esteemed for their 
 zeal for the public good, as for their knowledge, have given in 
 their works, bearing the seal of humanity, the first elements of 
 medicine : it ia there put within the reach of the most uninform- 
 ed. These valuable sheets should be affixed to the breviary of 
 the country. 
 
 Without the parish, there is a convent of Cordeliers, founded 
 in 1623 : the church is grand, and of beautiful proportion ; the 
 monastery is inclosed in a square court, and around is a cloister 
 covered with a gallery. The library contains only works of Theo- 
 logy : it consists of a heap of scholastic reveries and legends. It 
 is, however, what the mouks are most eager to shew to stran- 
 gers. 
 
 Travellers who stop at Alayor, without having some friend, 
 or at least some acquaintance to offer them them the civilities of 
 hospitality, take up their lodging, as in all other towns and vil- 
 lages of the island, at an inn, called Casa de Key, which has 
 very bad accommodation. There are only dirty, miserable, 
 truckle beds; and the whole of the provisions consist of eggs, bad 
 cheese, onions, execrable wine, and brown bread. These pub- 
 lic houses, under the inspection of the bailiff, are generally kept 
 by a Spaniard. The poor host, in a warm country, where pro- 
 visions soon spoil, and where they are seldom troubled with 
 visitors, only keeps in the house such victuals as he thinks he 
 cannot lose by. It is great good luck if one meets with butcher's 
 meat, fowls, or game, provided by the landlord for his family, 
 of which he makes a voluntary sacrifice, and for which you pay 
 \< r dear. And besides, at this place, as in all Spain, the inn- 
 keepers charge exorbitantly for every article; but here travellers 
 ought to complain less of this than in those countries where the 
 government provides for their accommodation. There scarcely 
 arrives at a Spanish inn, in the course of a whole year, a 
 number of travellers who spend sufficient to enable the inn- 
 keeper, from his profits, to pay his rent, and furnish maintenance
 
 LUDICROUS ANECDOTE. 7$ 
 
 for himself and family ; therefore impositions will be always 
 practised, unfortunately for those who are compelled to submit 
 to them. 
 
 I recollect an adventure of a Spanish officer, who was jour- 
 neying through a province and put up at one of these inns. 
 When the time of departure came, the host presented his bill : 
 an ill-dressed ragout of meat, which was the only dish that had 
 been set before the officer, was charged at sixteen piastres. It 
 was useless for the traveller to remonstrate, it must be paid ; 
 though it amounted to almost all the money he had about him. 
 The poor officer continued his journey, as desirous of having 
 his revenge, as he was mortified at the trick played him. Two 
 years afterwards, chance led him through the same village with 
 a strong detachment of his regiment. He did not fail to recol- 
 lect the place where he had been so shamefully treated. He 
 visited this same inn with his company, and ordered a plentiful 
 repast for all his people. The innkeeper, who had totally for- 
 gotten the officer and the adventure, set a profusion of victuals 
 before them, and waited on them with the greatest attention. 
 The refreshment over, the officer asked for the bill, but with- 
 out looking at it, presented the host with about twenty pence. 
 He remonstrated, and refuged the money, but he was obliged 
 to accept it ; for the odds were now against him. " Take it ;" 
 said the officer, " I paid you two years ago for the dinner of 
 to-day ; and I pay you to-day for the dinner you set before me 
 two years ago." The innkeeper recollected his guest, made a 
 low bow with a very bad grace, and retired, muttering a thou- 
 sand maledictions against the officer and his company. 
 
 In the vicinity of Alayor there are some clumps of treesj but 
 the earth is so full of rough and pointed stones, that walking is 
 truly painful. There is, however, one place whither one can 
 go to breathe the air with pleasure ; it was as inconvenient and 
 rough, and consequently as little frequented as the rest of this 
 small canton ; but an English officer, who was much beloved 
 by the soldiers, profited by their good-will, and had the ground 
 levelled and cleared of the stones ; it soon became covered with 
 turf, and shadowed by oaks always green. Ihis place presents, 
 an agreeable situation, where one is sheltered from the heat of 
 the sun, and not incommoded by the humidity complained of in 
 other countries. 
 
 About two miles from Alayor, on the road from Mahon to 
 Ciutadella, is Mercadal, the chief place of a district, which is 
 eleven or twelve miles in length, and eight or nine in breadth ; 
 bounded on the north by the sea, joining with the territory of 
 Mahon to the east, and reaching to the west as far as the village
 
 80 st. sauveur's travels. 
 
 of Fererias, which belongs to the district. The entire population 
 of tliis canton does not amount to more than two thousand souls. 
 
 Mercadal derives but little advantage from being the chief 
 place of n district; and being situated in the center of the island, 
 and on the most frequented road, the troops halt here as tiny 
 go from Mahon to Ciutadella, or return from the last place. 
 Travellers are not so well accommodated here as in the other 
 \illages of the island. The inn, or Casa del Rey, is miserable : 
 it is generally customary for travellers to carry their provisions 
 with them ; and, for a trifling sum, they may obtain a reception 
 in tome private house. 
 
 Mercadal is not well built ; the houses are very low, and re- 
 semble huts, which shew plainly the wretchedness of those who 
 inhabit them. This village is situated in the most unwholesome 
 part of the isle. The people are subject to very obstinate fevers, 
 particularly during the heat of summer ; their countenances shew 
 the insalubrity of the air they breathe. One cannot behold the 
 inhabitants of Mercadal without being struck with the difference 
 which distinguishes them from the other islanders. They have 
 something hard and forbidding in their physiognomy. This 
 species of ugliness is more particularly remarkable in the women. 
 Their ill healdi may be partly attributed to their drinking the 
 well-water. There is, however, at the end of the village, a 
 public cistern, which is filled by the Tain waters. To procure 
 a sufficient quantity, they have erected above the cistern a build- 
 ing, the roofs, or tops of which slope towards the interior part 
 ki the form of a funnel. This precaution does not prevent the 
 reservoir fiom being often dry in summer, when it rains but very 
 seldom. The streets of Mercadal are narrow, winding, and 
 rough, being ill paved and uneven ; nothing but being detained 
 by bad weather would induce a traveller to stay any length of 
 time in this village. 
 
 The parish church is the only public edifice : it was falling in 
 ruins, and the devotion of the inhabitants would have erected a 
 new temple, but the work was began and was suspended for 
 want of means. 
 
 About nine miles to the east of Mercadal, is the village Fere- 
 rias. It contain* nothing worth describing. It is distant about 
 a gun shot from the great road, which runs through the island 
 lengthways. This village is so ill built, and so poor, that it i> 
 a loss of time to turn out of the road to see it. However, there 
 are quarters which can contain two hundred men, and there is a 
 small house for the officers. The English, by whom these 
 quaiters were built, had a detachment always here. The Spa- 
 niards do not. keep any troops at this place. The territory pf
 
 account of Mount toro. 81 
 
 1'ereYias may be ten miles in length and lour in breadth, in 
 the widest part. It is poor, and less cultivated than any 
 other spot of the island : to this last circumstance is owing 
 the abundance of game in the canton. There are, how- 
 ever, to be found large tracts of land, which invite the cul- 
 tivator to labour: the people, naturally indolent, are from, 
 day to day impoverished by the monks, who are main- 
 tained in idleness at their expencc. If the poor inhabitant 
 of this part of Minorca had any encouragement, he would 
 soon rouse from the inactivity in which he languishes, and 
 the island would become enriched by the cultivation of so 
 much laud, now lost to the country. 
 
 On leaving Mercadal, the traveller finds himself a little 
 distance from, and almost at the foot of Mount Toro. 
 This mountain, the highest in Minorca, shews its lofty head 
 in the middle of the island, which it overlooks on every 
 side: it is in the form of a'sugar-loaf, on a base of several 
 miles in circumference ; the ascent is by a crooked path, 
 arid full ©f stones. This road is protected on the side where 
 is the steepest declivity by a wall of rough stones, which 
 they have left broken down in several places, and chiefly in 
 the highest and most dangerous parts. I must acknowledge, 
 that I could not help entertaining some sensations of fear 
 when I looked from the precipice, down a perpendicular 
 hollow, to a frightful depth; and where I was not more 
 than a foot distant from the edge. 
 
 When arrived at the summit of the Mount Toro, the 
 traveller is rewarded by the varied scenery of the whole 
 island, with a most extensive prospect. The mountain 
 serves as a beacon to navigators who make the land of 
 Minorca, and who would enter. its ports. The air respired 
 on the top of Mount Toro is the most pure and wholesome. 
 The whole of the summit is occupied by a convent of Au- 
 gustins : this monastery is extensive, and is not wanting in 
 accommodations. I went to see it, but there^was not any 
 thing very w r orthy of notice. The monk who accompanied 
 me, did not fail, on our entrance into the church, to draw 
 my attention to a sort of hollow grotto in the rock, set in 
 the wall of one of the chapels, on which was roughly sculp- 
 tured the figure of a bull, discovering, by butting with its 
 horns, the image of the Virgin. My conductor gave me a 
 long and tiresome history of this miracle, and assured me, 
 in the most serious manner, that the mountain had thence 
 derived its name. I took particular car*e not to attribute the 
 origin of the word Toro in his presence to Tor, which, in 
 
 • ST. SAUVIiUR.j l
 
 8-2 *t. sauveur's travels. 
 
 the Arabian language signifies elevation, certainly the most 
 natural and probable etymology. 1 could not help, at the 
 same time, entertaing the melancholy reflection, that the 
 ministers of our religion too frequently impose on the cre- 
 dulity and simplicity of the people. I cast my eyes after- 
 wards on a vast number of ex-votos, with which the chapel 
 is covered. How much to be pitied are the unhappy beings 
 who go daily to affix to these sacred walls the monuments 
 of their faith, and the trophies of the superior craftiness of 
 the monks. The most severe and painful pilgrimages are 
 made "to Mount Toro: I have seen men and even women 
 make the journey with bare feet; I have even seen them 
 carry their devotion so far, as to ascend the mountain on 
 their knees reciting slowly their rosaries. Surely these prac- 
 tices are not less absurd with us, than the austerities of the 
 Bonzes and the followers of Mahomet. The last do not 
 pay for their absurdities, arid (the first never fail to lodge 
 m the hands of the monks the tributes of their folly, m 
 which consists all the difference. 
 
 The English had built a telegraph on the summit of 
 Mount Toro; it communicated with all the others placed 
 on the different points of the island. I am sometimes 
 tempted to wish, from its- advantageous position, that the 
 convent of the Augustins was transformed into fortified 
 "barracks, where might be kept a sufficient force. From this 
 post, overlooking the whole island, they could descend 
 rapidly, in case of attack to any given point where the 
 enemy might attempt a landing. 
 
 Six miles from Mount Toro, towards the north, is Port 
 Tornels ; it describes a large circle, of which the mouth is 
 very narrow, and is to the north. This port is well sheltered, 
 and can, iu some parts of it, receive the largest vessels, but 
 it requires a perfect knowledge of the soundings; there are 
 shoals even in the middle of it : the difficulty of going in is 
 still more increased by the squalls which come from the 
 mountains and hills forming the passage. The entrance is 
 defended by a small fort, built upon a point to the right of 
 the harbour : it is square, constructed of. free-stone, flanked 
 with four bastions, and as many curtains, with a wretched 
 moat, without exterior works. The rooms and magazines 
 occupy the interior of the square. These buildings are 
 vaulted, and above it formed the rampart. When the Ens^ 
 lish took Minorca, there was a chapel in this fort. The 
 barrack-masters being ordinarily, the suttlers of the detach- 
 ment, changed it into a tavern. The jire of this fort is sup-
 
 MOUNT ST. AGATHA. 83 
 
 ported by that of another, constructed with numbered pieces 
 of wood, and which was brought from London. It is elect- 
 ed on a small island at the end of the port, and opposite 
 the mouth. This fort has two stories; the first serves to 
 lodge the garrison, Lhe second is cut in battlements, or rather 
 port-holes for a battery of four pieces, of a large calibre 
 Under this portable castle they have dug a subterra- 
 neous place, which serves as a magazine for powder; and 
 there is also a cistern. Besides these two small forts, the 
 batteries of which consist of nine pieces; there is, ou a 
 point at the mouth of the port on the left, a tower mounted 
 with an eighteen pounder on a swivel : when 1 visited these 
 two forts I found them absolutely defenceless, and only saw 
 eight pieces ofariiilerv, not mounted. The English had built 
 on the shore of the Port Fornel, a small hospital, with from, 
 thirty to forty beds, quarters for about sixty men>and rooms 
 for the commandant and officers. These edifices which were 
 very much out of repair at the time the island was restored to 
 the Spaniards, are now in appearance deserted. The gar- 
 rison consists only of eight infantry and two gunners, com- 
 manded by a serjeant. 
 
 On the right shore of the port is a little village, or rather 
 a hamlet inhabited by a few fishermen. The Port of For- 
 nel might be rendered advantageous to commerce and navi- 
 gation. In place, of the huts of the fishermen, there might 
 be built, in a short space of time, commodious dwellings 
 and warehouses, where the merchant might deposit his 
 goods, the islander his articles of trade, and the mariner his- 
 naval stores. The Port of Fornel might be made of utility, 
 without being an injury to that of Muhon, which would al- 
 ways possess superior advantages. 
 
 To the north-wtrst of Mercadal is Mount St. Agatha, it 
 towers above a quantity of smaller hills which surround it. 
 The scenery together presents a vast landscape of rocks, 
 steep and barren: the traveller feels, at sight of the picture, 
 at once admiration and terror ; his reflections are lea to the 
 causes which have oecasioned this dese.rt state of a part of 
 the island. In considering the assemblage of mountains, 
 which appear one vast rock stript of verdure, his imagina- 
 tion recurs to the time when it was fertile, and enriched 
 with trees and plants. The soil seems to have been, for 
 ages, carried down by the successive rains in the plain be- 
 low ; perhaps violent earthquakes may have accelerated the 
 phenomena. The entrails of the mountains are, in fact, 
 to be seen through the chasms, and present only 'a heap of
 
 84 ST. SAUVEUR's TRAVEtg. 
 
 rubbish, and of broken pieces of the rock. If nature, ho\v«i 
 ever, seem here to have spread forth her ruins, she displays 
 herself with all her beauty on the opposite side; with what 
 delightful emotion does the traveller turn his eye from a 
 first scene, to the delightful landscape of fertile vallies, vine* 
 yards, and sloping hills in furrows made by the plough of 
 the peaceful labourer, or offering their rich verdure to the 
 bleating flocks. 
 
 A naturalist, in surveying the mountains which surround 
 St. Agatha, will observe a peculiarity in the form of one of 
 the lesser ones. It consists entirely of a naked rock divided 
 into several beds heaped one on the other, and which are 
 not parallel to the surface of the earth, but which form an 
 angle of more than thirty degrees with the horizon. This 
 singularity seems to contradict the opinion of philosophers, 
 who pretend that the different particles of matter of which 
 the earth is composed precipitate themselves in the manner 
 water evaporates, according to their respective degrees of 
 density ; and that they have formed all over the globe regu- 
 lar and horizontal beds. May not the inclined direction of 
 the stones which compose the little mountain in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Saint Agatha be attributed to some change 
 which has happened since the deluge ? 
 
 It is not an easy matter to get to the summit of mount 
 Agatha, the only way is by an ascent cut into the rock in 
 the way of stairs, of which the steps are gigantic. The 
 mules climb up, however loaded. If, however, these ani- 
 mals are used to ascend, sure footed as they are, it is pru- 
 dent to walk on foot. These steps are, in several places, 
 wet with the springs, which makes it very slippery and dan- 
 gerous in many parts. 
 
 The summit of mount Agatha presents a little plain of 
 about six acres. It is the residence of a shepherd and his 
 family ; he has a flock cff sheep which are nourished by the 
 small quantity of herbage to be found on the mountain 
 and its environs. On the heights is built a small chapel, 
 dedicated to Saint Agatha. It is a pilgrimage which the 
 women are eager to make. The walls of this chapel are 
 adorned with figures in wax, silver, and wood, the monu- 
 ments of miraculous cures. Saint Agatha relieved the diseases 
 pf the breast. Every saint here, as elsewhere, is specially 
 gifted by the credulity of the people and the address of the 
 priests, for the cure of particular maladies. 
 
 The mount St. Agatha was formerly one of the most an- 
 picnt military po«t3 of the island. It is not to be doubte4 
 5
 
 FAttM OF ADAIA. 85 
 
 that the Romans profited of so advantageous a position; 
 the Moors, masters of Minorca, fortified mount St. Agatha, 
 and there defended themseLves a considerable time, after 
 their countrymen, vanquished in different combats, were 
 compelled to abandon all the other fortresses of the island. 
 The ruins at present in existence of the ancient fortifications 
 do not shew an epoch more remote than that of the domi- 
 nion of the Moors. These fortifications were irregular as 
 the ground on which they were raised. On the summit 
 was a fort which could hold out after the outworks had been 
 taken, and is composed of thick walls, flanked at regular 
 distances by towers. In the lower part of the summit are 
 dug two immense cisterns, which are yet entire. These re- 
 servoirs are constructed of a kind of cement moulded in a 
 frame, and the inner part plaistered with a still finer sort. 
 Armstrong, in his history of Minorca, says, that these re- 
 servoirs contain two millions one hundred and ninety thou- 
 sand three hundred and eighty-four Paris pints. T he cal- 
 culation appears to me a little exaggerated. 
 
 It is not far from mount St. Agatha to Adaia, a farm 
 which deserves particular notice. It is situated almost on 
 the sea-shore of a little port to the east of mount Toro. It 
 presents, on this side, a pleasant amphitheatre, whilst on 
 the opposite, it is surrounded by mountains. The summit 
 of these mountains is continually stript of soil carried away 
 by the rains, the slime of which, deposited at the foot of the 
 hills, produce in the vallies a prodigious fertility. The 
 mountains protect the farm from the north wind ; however, 
 this part of the isle passes for unwholesome, and they attri- 
 bute, with reason, the cause to the exhalations from the 
 marshes formed by the rain waters which stagnate in the 
 hollows beneath the mountains ; it would be easy to remedy 
 this inconvenience. It would not be more difficult, nor of 
 less utility to repair, or rather to make the road from Mahon 
 to this part of the country, from which it is only distant 
 nine miles; although this journey is so short it is a painful, 
 and even dangerous, in some places, particularly in the 
 winter, when the weather is bad. 
 
 The gardens belonging to the farm of Adaia are very fer- 
 tile, cultivated with care, and produce every kind of fruit 
 and vegetables, the culture of which has been intro- 
 duced. The vines, orange trees, and pomegranates succeed 
 better than in any other part of the island. The Minorca ns 
 »et a particular value on the water melons of Adaia. One 
 pf the great advantages of this farm is that of having in the
 
 60 st. sauyecr's travels. 
 
 vicinity a very plentiful spring, which supplies at pleasure 
 water for the gardens, and which helps not a little to give 
 the fruits and vegetables of the farm of Adaia, an acknow- 
 ledged superiority over those of the rest of the island, as in 
 the other parts they are obliged to make use of well water, 
 which makes the watering more laborious, and not so com- 
 plete. 
 
 There are some well shaded promenades at Adaia, and 
 where, during the summer heats, one breathes with pleasure 
 a refreshing breeze from the sea, which is very pleasant and 
 agreeable : Adaia has also the advantage of a small port, 
 where the amusement of fishing may be had amidst land- 
 scapes of a beautifully varied perspective. The entrance is 
 concealed by the intermediate lands towards the north. 
 This port resembles a river ; its banks are covered with ever- 
 greens, which bend over the water that reflects their foliage. 
 Unfortunately, rocks and shallows make this port useless as 
 a place of anchorage. Thus there are to be seen only small 
 fishing boats in the harbour. 
 
 The situation and real utility of the farm of Adaia makes 
 one regret that the proprietor, who is a man of taste, does 
 not enjoy a fortune sufficient to afford the means to profit 
 by the bounteous gifts of nature, the excellent qualities of 
 the soil, and the advantage of plentiful springs of water: 
 with such means he could presently trausform the humble 
 farm into a most delightful residence. A traveller might 
 then indeed with truth make use of the words of cardinal 
 de Ketz, in his description of the port of Mahon. The 
 stranger who is entertained at Adaia is charmed with the 
 amenity and sweetness of disposition belonging to the cha- 
 racter of the proprietor; in addition to which excellent 
 qualities, he possesses a profound erudition with an en- 
 lightened mind, that, in the judgment of the intelligent, 
 gives him the first rank among his fellow citizens. 
 
 A narrow Cape separates the port of Adaia from another 
 small anchorage, called the Molin ; where the English 
 landed in the year 1798.
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 DISTRICT OF CIUTADELLA. 
 
 j\T the western extremity or* the island of Minorca is 
 situated the town of Ciutadella. It is built a short distance 
 from the sea shore. The port is small, and at the end shal- 
 low and marshy ; it is a kind of narrow canal with rocks on 
 each side; the entrance is difficult, and can only admit 
 small vessels, and those are often much disabled at times 
 when the cross winds blow. To the right of the entrance 
 is a large round tower, built by the English, who placed 
 there a telegraph. This tower is protected by a platform, 
 on which are two large swivels. This sort of fort could at 
 most only prevent the entrance of a privateer. 
 
 At a short distance is the church of St. Nicholas, 
 held in great veneration among seafaring people, who 
 go thither on pilgrimage. They have hung on the walls 
 some shabby pictures, representing the dangers to which 
 they have been exposed in the course of their voyages, and 
 their deliverance from which perils, they piously attribute 
 to the intercession of Saint Nicholas. This religious cus- 
 tom is very ancient, and may be traced to a very remote 
 period. It was practised among the Greeks and Romans, 
 but often, not content with hanging these representations in 
 the temples, those who had made the vow, wore them sus- 
 pended to their necks, and thus presented to the eyes of 
 their fellow citizens the history of the dangers they had 
 escaped. Horace alludes to this custom in the fifth ode of 
 his first book : 
 
 " Me tabula sacer 
 Votiva paries indicat avida 
 
 Suspendisse potenti 
 Vestimenta maris deo.'' 
 
 On the shore to the left is another tower, on which they 
 hoist the signals to the ships in the orfmg. 
 
 The city of Ciutadella is surrounded by a wall, part of 
 which, on the side next the land, is the work of the Moors. 
 It is very high, and has been well preserved for near six 
 centuries. The more modern part consists of a rampart,
 
 83 ST. sauveur's travels. 
 
 and several bastions and curtains built with liewn stone, 
 Kear the curtains the rampart is narrow ; the bastions arc 
 broad ; part of the moat which they had begun to dig in 
 the rock is deep ; there is also to be seen the beginning of 
 the parapet of a covered way. These works, abandoned by 
 the English, remain in an unfinished state. In cases of 
 alarm, the garrison of Ciutadella, incapable of sustaining a 
 siege, must necessarily fall back into fort St. Phillippe ; but 
 now that all the fortifications of the castle are entirely de- 
 stroyed, the troops which might be found at Ciutadella, 
 would be obliged to capitulate almost without resistance. 
 
 The wretched fortifications of this city were besides strip- 
 ped of artillery, at the time when the English broke with 
 Spain, and suddenly began hostilities. Their squadron* 
 having sent their cruisers to the shores of Minorca, justified 
 the fear that the island would be invaded. These fears were 
 strengthened by the capture of the Castile regiment, sent 
 from Barcelona to augment the forces of Minorca. The 
 conveyance of the transports with the troops from Barce- 
 lona directly to Minorca exposed them to be taken ; a surer 
 way would have been that of Denia, in the kingdom of \ a- 
 lentia, making use of small boats only, which from the shore 
 seeing the whole of the canal, with the island of Ivica, 
 might have taken advantage of the first favourable moment 
 for so short a course. They would have passed from Ivica 
 to Majorca, and marched the troops from this port toAlcu- 
 dia, from whence they could reach Ciutadella without dau- 
 ger. They have tried this route, and in spite of several 
 English cruisers, the troops have successively arrived. At 
 the time the Castile regiment was taken, there was in the 
 island only the regiment of Toria, of about seven or eight 
 hundred men capable of taking the field, and a battalion of 
 a thousand or eleven hundred men, rangers of Catalonia, 
 almost entirely composed of recruits drawn out of prisons. 
 or sent into the regiment as vagabonds. The importance 
 of the island of Minorca required that the garrison should 
 be composed of well-disciplined troops, and not of soldiers 
 whose inexperience made them of no service, and whose 
 morals at the same time were not such as to inspire any de- 
 gree of confidence. By the attention of the commander 
 and officers to perfect this corps, it is now sufficiently disci- 
 plined, and is kept in very excellenfcondition. Pressed by 
 the fear of the danger, thev hasted to put Ciutadella, if not 
 in a state to sustain a regular siege, at least capable of re- 
 sistance in case of a coup de main, and to keep sufficient
 
 MILITARY WOnKS. 89 
 
 force to be able to send succours to the oilier points of. the 
 island. They are repairing, though imperfectly the for- 
 tifications, and have placed in butteries on the bastions 
 fourteen pieces of eighteen and twenty-four pounders, and 
 two mortars. The garrison, which scarcely amounted to 
 fifty men, was increased to four hundred. They bad pur- 
 posed to form a small fortified camp under the walls of 
 Ciutadella, which would have protected the fire of the 
 place. This camp was to serve as a retreat in case the 
 troops should be obliged to go out of the city ; and in this 
 camp they proposed keeping the chief part of the stores and 
 provisions. The o.\en, sheep, horses, and mules designed 
 to transport the baggage, and ammunition, and for the 
 service of the artillery of the field. Happily this extrava- 
 gant plan was not adopted. It was easy to judge that this 
 camp would have been taken without any trouble, or sur- 
 rounded and compelled by famine to capitulate. 
 
 Since the demolition of the famous Fort St. Phillipe, they 
 seem to have entirely given up any endeavour to make de- 
 fence in the island by walls and ramparts. The works 
 raised by the English, at the entrance of the port of Ma- 
 hon, were nothing buta fortified line ; all the batteries of 
 which could only serve to hinder or retard any entrance 
 into the port. They had preserved some of the works, but 
 the Spaniards have so destroyed them, that the little fortifi- 
 cations which remain are only a few batteries. 
 
 The defence of Minorca seems not to allow any other 
 than an open campaign, or an affair of posts. 
 
 The island is covered almost every where with little 
 mountains, or hills, forming between them narrow vallies, 
 which run to the sea-shore. The small number of plains 
 are intersected, in every direction with enclosures of low 
 walls of dry stone. At the time of hostilities, they had only 
 one single road by which artillery could be conveyed. This 
 road goes from one end of Minorca to the other ; from the 
 batteries of the port of Mahon as far as Ciutadella. The 
 Spaniards have now made two others ; the one from the 
 city of Mahon, which reaches beyond the village St. Louis, 
 near the sea-shore, eastward ; the other beginning at the 
 same point, and ending at the small bay of Mesquila., near. 
 Cape Mola. 
 
 The shores of the island form a great number of small 
 bays, or creeks, where a landing might be effected ; but to 
 get into the interior of Minorca, there are many difficult 
 ways and narrow passages, where the enemy would easily 
 
 BT. SAVVEUR.] JJ
 
 f)0 ST. SAVVLUU'S IKAVr.r.s, 
 
 be stopt by the troops occupying the heights. The CirA 
 and most essential disposition for the defence of .Minorca, 
 i.s to place the troops in the most favourable situation- to 
 move with expedition to those parts of the island where the 
 enemy might threaten a landing. This situation is the 
 center of the island. The troops might be placed on Mount 
 Toro, at Fe*rerias, Mcrcadal and Alayor. Mount St. Aga- 
 tha is also a post of importance, and they would be near 
 enough to prevent it falling into the hands of the enemy, 
 i'f they should succeed in landing, and gaining ground on 
 this side of the island. In the course of the month of 
 May 1805, the Minor cans were called to arms, on an oc- 
 casion which served to prove the truth of this observation, 
 and the necessity of using telegraphs in the room of the 
 defective signals now em ployed. One morning a signal 
 was made on the coast of the island, a short distance from 
 CiutadeHa, of a squadron being in the offing, the ma- 
 noeuvres of which indicated an attempt. The intelligence, 
 conveyed by an order sent from CiutadeHa, did not arrive 
 till five o'clock in the evening. All the garrison received 
 orders to hold themselves in readiness to march. About 
 four hundred men of the regiment of Soria departed as 
 soon as possible for Ciutodella, where'there was at that time 
 only fifty men. From Mali on to is reckoned at least eight 
 long leagues : before these troops could have possibly ar- 
 rived, there is no doubt, but that the enemy would have 
 had time to land and possess themselves of posts, from 
 which it would have been very difficult to dislodge them 
 with troops fatigued by a long and painful march. 
 
 With the exception of three or four hundred men, of 
 which' number the garrison of CiutadeHa consists, fifty or 
 sixty at the Port Fornels, and some small detachments of 
 three or four men on different points of the island, the 
 whole of the united force of Minorca are centered at Ma- 
 lion, the Ravalle, and the batteries of the port; that is to 
 say, at one of the extremities of the island. There also are 
 all the field artillery, with all the ammunition and provsions. 
 
 The total force of the island, at the time of my depar- 
 ture, consisted of 3,100 foot soldiers or* the line, 1,500 
 rangers, 500 engineers and miners, and ()0 horse soldiers, 
 in all 5,190 men. The daily service, including the garrisons- 
 of CiutadeHa and Fornels, and the small detachments, em- 
 ploys about 700 men; the remaining 4,390, from which 
 may yet be deducted 300, besides those who are sick, pri- 
 soners, a^nd recruits, make the whole disposable force of
 
 MILITARY STATE OF MINORCA. 9* 
 
 wi-c country 4,090 men. The troops are good and well dis- 
 ciplined. 
 
 Cavalry cannot be employed to advantage in a country 
 where there are no plains. Thus the service of the horse 
 soldiers is reduced to carrying orders to the several posts of 
 the island, and conveying the correspondence when the 
 couriers, coming from Majorca -and the continent, are 
 obliged to go into any other port than that of Mahon. 
 However, they have been forced to refurnish this cavalry 
 with, horses by a requisition from those of the islanders, as 
 the horses they had were unfit for service. 
 
 The island is sufficiently provided with artillen' for the 
 ramparts and the field. They have added a certain number 
 of mules, as well to convey the ammunition as for the ser- 
 vice of the afttflery, in which they are alternately exercised. 
 Minorca has received from Spain a large quantity of war- 
 like stores. The magazines are furnished with spare arms 
 and tents to encamp the troops. I pereeived, with regret, 
 that they neglected to make them previously acquainted 
 with the interior, and the different posts to be occupied in 
 case the enemy should succeed in advancing into the island. 
 Once only the governor ordered out the garrison to be re- 
 viewed ; the troops took the heights in :the vicinity of the 
 bay of Mesquita ; they placed themselves in order of battle, 
 and some platoon firing comprised the who? of their ma- 
 neeuves. This exercise, or parade, was performed in the 
 presence of the governor's wife and some other ladies. 1' 
 thought that I was rather a spectator of some holiday pro- 
 cession than of a military evolution. 
 
 The government of Minorca, and consequently the pre- 
 servation of this important island, is confided to a briga- 
 dier of his Majesty's forces. The present commander joins 
 to a high sense of honour, virtues and social qualities, 
 which cannot be too highly esteemed. It is to be wishedthat 
 this governor was invested with an authority which would 
 place him out of the power of interferences and oppositions 
 from the different administrations, which hinder and often 
 destroy the force of his operations. 
 
 There are four different quarters to lodge the troops at 
 Ciutadella : the first is built near the gate of Majorca, and 
 is bomb proof; it can contain three hundred foot soldiers : 
 the second, on" the parade can lodge an hundred and fifty 
 men: the third, a small distance removed, holds an hun- 
 dred and twenty, and the fourth, thirty cavalry. 
 
 There is no hospital but that of the city, which can re- 
 
 M 2
 
 (jl ST. SAUVEUIt's TRAVELS. 
 
 ceive as many as two hundred sick. But at Ciutadella, and 
 at Mahon there are houses large enough, and the convents, 
 which in time of need could be made use of to lodge the 
 troops, and as hospitals and magazines. The English did 
 rot fail to make use of these resources when the island of 
 Minorca was the place of rendezvous, and for taking in 
 fresh provisions for their squadrons in the Mediterranean. 
 
 The mansion of the governor of Ciutadella is built at the 
 foot of a bastion which overlooks the town. It is large 
 enough, but very irregular. The kitchen and other oftirea 
 are level with the ground floor. The first story joins and 
 is on a level with the ramparts, which form an agreeable 
 promenade, from whence may be seen part of the island, a, 
 large extent of sea, and the island of Majorca, about ten 
 leagues distant. The interior of this house is. ill contrived, 
 and at the time I saw it, was almost without furniture. 
 There is a garden belonging to it on one side of the parade 
 surrounded with high walls; this garden has very little 
 care bestowed upon it, particularly now the government of 
 Ciutadella is given to an officer of subaltern rank, who 
 certainly has not the means of affording the necessary ex- 
 pence which a proper cultivation would require. There is 
 also a chapel in this hotel, but it is not used. 
 
 The principal church of Ciutadella, which is at the same 
 time the cathedral of the island, is built in the center of 
 the city; it is large, and has a square tower, terminated by 
 a spire of hewn stone. At a distance this octagon steeple 
 lias a pleasing effect in the perspective of Ciutadella. It is 
 said that this church was built near the time that Alphonso, 
 the king of Arragon made the conquest of the island, in the 
 year l£87. There was a cathedral church in the year 418, 
 under the emperor Honorius, when Ciutadella (at that time 
 called Jainnon, from the name of a Carthagenian general, 
 who was said to be the founder) was the see of St. Severus, 
 the bishop of Minorca. The present church was probably 
 built on the foundation of the first. It would be difficult 
 to say precisely at what epoch : above the gate of the ves- 
 tibule is the following inscription, dated iStk). 
 
 ACI. IHU. V. N. ET. DE. CORSA. 
 
 PREVERA. QUI. EO. OFEC1AL. 
 
 BE. MANORCA. LO QUAL. 
 
 PASSA.DE.SOA. DIDA. 
 
 AY I. DE JOLIOL. LAND. 
 
 MCCCLX. DOC. DEO. LAIA.
 
 REFLECTIONS ON CHURQH PURIAL. 98 
 
 Tbia epitaph, informs us, that an officer employed -at Mi- 
 norca, whose name was John, a native of Corsica, was in- 
 terred in this church the I lth of July 1S60. This' monu- 
 ment, in other respects little interesting, serves at least to 
 mark an epoch of the antiquity of the cathedral of Ciuta* 
 dellu. On the south side of the church are a considerable 
 number of sculptures cut in the rock. There are many 
 others of the same kind without the walls of the city : these 
 memorials seem to me to belong to the time of the Mo s; 
 as the christians have for a long time been accustomed to 
 deposit their dead in the churches, by which it apn-ars 
 that the infidels had the advantage of us in both reason nd 
 prudence. The Christian custom, which has often been the 
 cause of fatal effects, is continued here through the obsti- 
 nate blindness of the faithful. How then can we reproach, 
 those who have preceded us, when we ourselves in the 
 nineteenth century persist in the practice of the same, ab- 
 surdities ? The temple where the islanders go to offer up 
 their prayers and praises to the Almighty, is changed into 
 a place infected with cadaverous exhalations. But the good 
 Minorcans are persuaded, that their bodies being deposited 
 at the foot of an altar, assures, or at least facilitates, the 
 entrance of their souls into the abodes of the blessed. The 
 kinsfolk and friends, who come to water with their tears the 
 stones which cover these graves, carry away but too often 
 the seeds of a distemper, which soon hastens them to the 
 same sepulchre. How many examples of sudden death may 
 be imputed to the opening of these pestilential repositories 
 of the dead. The evidence of experience has not yet pre- 
 vailed over ridiculous custom and mistaken credulity. Has 
 the poor man, to whom fortune has denied the means of 
 depositing his remains in the sanctuary, less right to hope 
 for the mercy of his God, than the rich one covered with a 
 marble monument, which merely transmits to posterity 
 his name and the date of his departure from this life? Wiil 
 the great man, who, under gilded roofs, has passed his days, 
 spun out by the hand of pleasure, days which has pro- 
 duced only to his fellow-creatures the sweat of the brow and 
 unavailing tears, will he appear before his judge with more 
 confidence than the unfortunate being who has eaten the 
 bread of bitterness in the humble hut which served to shel- 
 ter him from the seasons ? Forgive me reflections so fo- 
 reign to my subject, and which would come better from 
 other pens. Experience has, however, dictated regulations 
 ■;vhich prohibit interment in the churches; ; but what laws
 
 94 st. sauveur's travels. 
 
 will not fanaticism and money elude; 1 have witnessed a 
 striking instance of this truth. In a convent at Muhon, the 
 monks sell to the vanity as well as to the devotion of some 
 persons, the vaults appropriated to themselves in the cloi- 
 sters. These friars have thus eluded a wholesome law, by 
 a speculation as revolting to decency as to propriety ; and 
 they continue to heap carcase on carcase in their church. 
 
 The ancients caused their dead to be buried without the 
 walls of their cities, and in the fields; they even burnt the 
 bodies and preserved only the ashes. It is not among the 
 ruins of the temples that the sepulchres are still to be seen : 
 these tombs, erected by the hand of piety and of gratitude, 
 whereon are read the funereal inscriptions, which bring to 
 our recollection the heroes of antiquity, and those great 
 men who carried to the tomb the regret of their fellow 
 citizens ; " but these were pagans," is all the answer that is 
 to be got from these monks and fanatics. 
 
 The Augustins have a convent near to the port of Mahon; 
 the edifice is grand, and the chnrch is ornamented with a 
 dome; for the rest, there is nothing remarkable. These 
 monks maintain sometimes public disputations, the subject 
 generally as absurd as the jargon is burbarous; for example, 
 ** Did matter exist before form, or form before matter." 
 This is one of the important questions they most gravely 
 discuss, and tl*eir conclusions are just s wise, Tua propo- 
 sitio non est rem, erge est falsa; what miserable logic is 
 rhisj 
 
 Beyond the port of Mahon is another monastery, of the 
 order of Saint Anthouy. These monks are rich ; their 
 church is small, but handsomely ornamented. The garden 
 is the greatest curiosity, as it is cultivated in the quarry 
 which supplied the stones with which the convent is built. 
 
 The Franciscans have also a monastery in the interior of 
 the town, near the parade. The building is large, but irre- 
 gular. These monks occupy themselves in the service of 
 the public ; they have an apothecary's shop, where they 
 sell to the people those drugs of which they stand in need, 
 and a school for the instruction of children. 
 
 At Ciutadella is a convent of nuns of St. Claire, who pass 
 the tedious hours in weeping for their sins; probably the 
 s«in of quitting the world, is that which is most seriously 
 repented by many of these virgins. 
 
 The city of Ciutadella contains about seven hundred 
 houses ; some of them are very handsome, but in general 
 the streets are narrow, crooked, and badly paved. There
 
 CURIOUS GROTTO. 95 
 
 are piazzas on each side of the principal street, which, with 
 the cloisters or' the ; convents, serve lor promenades when 
 the weather will not permit walking out of the city. The 
 district of Ciutadella may be about eleven miles in length, 
 and live or six in breadth. It contains nearly a hundred and 
 forty farms, and the total population does not exceed eight 
 thousand persons. In Ciutadella is the residence of the 
 bishop of Minorca, and the houses of most of the nobility 
 of the country, which are the only remains of its former 
 pre-eminence. 
 
 In the environs, to the north of Ciutadella are some well 
 cultivated gardens, which produce in abundance all sorts 
 of fruit and vegetables. 
 
 In the vicinity of Ciutadella is a very curious grotto, 
 which is generally visited by travellers. Bomare mentions 
 it in his Dictionary of Natural History. It is situated two 
 miles to the south of the city. This grotto is hollowed by 
 nature in the rock ; the entrance is narrow and difficult, but 
 it widens at once as you descend, and by the light of flam- 
 beaux may be discovered other smaller grottos, which all 
 communicate with the large one. There distils from the 
 roof of these grottos a water, which is so impregnated with 
 vitrifying matter, that it forms an infinite number of stalac- 
 tites of the colour of brown sugar-candy, not very transpa- 
 rent. These petrifactions have a thousand different forms. 
 There are some not thicker than the quill of a pen, while 
 others are of considerable size. The whole forms a number 
 of columns which seem to support the vaulted roof of the 
 grotto. One may observe the gradation and progress of 
 these petrifications; in many places are seen little capitals 
 which descend from the roof, as if to join those bases which 
 rise from the ground underneath, as the water petrifies 
 which falls from the roof in other places j the. spaces be- 
 tween the capitals and the bases are filled by the shafts of 
 the columns; some of which are regular enough, others 
 very imperfect, and seem to be of the gothic order : in short, 
 the whole forms an enormous mass of large and small pil- 
 lars, adhering one to the other. The floor of the cavern is 
 covered with petrified matter of considerable thickness ; 
 this curious grotto is called " La Cova Perella." 
 
 There is a neighbouring cavern containing a kind of lake 
 of salt water, which makes it probable, that it has some 
 communication with the sea. 
 
 On the way to these caverns, there is found on the sea- 
 shore, among the sand, a great quantity of small pieces of
 
 9fi St. SAUYETJR's TRAVELS. 
 
 red coral. The fishermen frequenly draw up wrtri 
 their nets whole branches of white coral, but hardly ever 
 any red. Tne fragments winch are found on the shore are 
 probably brought thither by the waves, at those times when 
 the sea is rough and the wind westerly. 
 
 The Hippocampus, which the natives call the sea-horse, 
 is very commonly found here. The Stella marina arbo- 
 rescent, is al»o often found, but much damaged by beating 
 against the rocks. 
 
 The land in this part is barren and without any of the 
 istMfl productions of cultivation, but it abounds in fossils 
 and shells. 
 
 AP. VI If. 
 
 CLIMATE, QUALITIES, AND PRODUCTIONS OF THE LANDS. 
 AND COASTS OF THE I5LAND OF MINORCA. 
 
 X. HE climate of the island of Minorca is not so mild and 
 temperate as that of the neighbouring islands. Situated at 
 the mouth of the gulph of Leon, Minorca is not like Ma- 
 jorca sheltered by the height of the mountains ; this island 
 consequently experiences all the severity of the north winds, 
 which frequently blow with great violence. On the northern 
 shores of the island the power of these winds may be ob- 
 served, .the shores arc broken and uneven in all that part of 
 the isle. The trees and plants do not thrive, and all bend 
 or incline towards the south. In the winter, although snow 
 or ice is rarely seen, yet the cold is nevertheless severe, so 
 that it is' necessary to have fire in the apartments, and to be 
 warmly clothed. The autumn is the rainy season, in which 
 arc always successive and abundant rains. During the 
 spring the air is always. pure and temperate, but the heats of 
 summer are insupportably sultry. 
 
 The land or soil of Minorca is of several kind?, that of 
 the mountains and hills is blackish, fine, light, and very 
 fertile, though but thinly spread on the surface of the rock. 
 It is mixed with a great quantity of sand, which makes the 
 labour easier to the cultivator. The soil on the plains is not 
 so fertile as that of the mountains, it is cold and clayey, and 
 not good cither for pasture or agriculture. Nevertheless it 
 
 4
 
 FOSSILS, MINERALS, &c 97. 
 
 produces a Quantity of different sorts of herbage, which 
 would be very good food for cattle, if they were not mixed 
 with other sorts which are acid, and which they will not 
 eat. Among these plants there are some which might in- 
 terest the curiosity and researches of a botanist. The val- 
 lies are fertilized by the quantity of earth which is washed 
 from the surrounding mountains by the rains, but these are 
 impoverished in the same proportion. On some of these 
 mountains they have raised banks or little walls of dry 
 stones to support the lands, leaving a free course for the 
 water. This method preserves their fertility. In the in- 
 terior of the island, on digging into the rock, the earth, 
 is found mixed with a great quantity of Hints and stones. 
 The islanders make use of them to build little walls which 
 form an infinite number of enclosures with which the. 
 island is intersected in every direction. 
 
 In the districts of Alayor and Fererias there are some 
 small woods of pines and green oaks, but they are stunted 
 in growth aud do not stand very thick. 
 
 The olives, oranges, lemons, and pomegranates Succeed 
 very well, and the culture of them requires but little care 
 or labour. 
 
 There is also found in the island a kind of clay of a grey, 
 colour, which on being baked, or rather burnt, becomes of 
 a light brown ; the inhabitants make crockery of it, such as 
 cups, jugs, and tiles. In some places there is a kind of 
 clay which is blue and yellow, of which the Minorcans 
 make no use. 
 
 The kind of plaister called guyscb, which I have already 
 mentioned, is common in many places in the island; but 
 the Minorcans prefer that which is brought from Majorca. 
 The plaister, which they distinguish by the name of perelle, 
 is whiter and more brittle and shining : they ttse it to clarify 
 their wines. 
 
 Rock crystal is rare at Minorca ; but in the district of 
 Alayor they very commonly find that sort of MuscovJ 
 glass, which encrusts the plants and vegetables. 
 
 In the district of Alayor there is a pond of stagnantwater 
 nearly a mile in length ; it is about three hundred, paces 
 from the sea. The space between forms a sandy beach, 
 which is sometimes entirely covered with the waves. Near 
 the shore is a small eminence, where most of the plants are 
 encrusted with a sandy substance of some thickness, the out- 
 side of which is greyish and brittle, and the internal part 
 white, and as hard as flint. The ground is strewed with a 
 
 ST. SAVVEUB.] N
 
 J)3 ST. SAUVEUR's TRAVEL8. 
 
 quantity of these encrustations, the plants which they en* 
 crusted having been separated, or having perished or dis- 
 solved by time. 
 
 In digging the earth for. stone the Minorcans discover 
 veins as hard as flint, which they are obliged to blow up 
 with gunpowder. The strata of this hard stone are gene- 
 rally a foot in thickness, and the deeper they dig the harder 
 it becomes, and is less mixed with shells and other sub- 
 stances, which are on the surface. As the stone is porous 
 aad easily penetrated by the water, they expose it to the air 
 some time before they make use of it. 
 
 Lime stone is common at Minorca ; it is of a light grey 
 colour, very hard and shining; where it has been recently 
 broken, it contains many echinites and other remains of 
 the deluge, particularly in the upper strata. It is generally 
 found in detached pieces dispersed in the fields, and when 
 these fragments are neither too many nor too large, far 
 from injuring the vegetation of the corn, it assists it by the 
 heat which it imparts. 
 
 There is a quantity of slate at Minorca, particularly on 
 the side of Cape Mola, which would facilitate the con- 
 veyance of it, if the Minorcans did not prefer the use of 
 tiles. This slate is smooth, shining, and of a bluish colour, 
 with veins of white. It has a number of perpendicular 
 fissures, which divide it into masses of a convenient size for 
 use. 
 
 Marble of different qualities is found at Minorca; hut 
 the islanders take no account of it. 
 
 There is neither fire-stone nor chalk in the island; the 
 Minorcans have the first from other countries, and instead 
 of the last they adopt the marking stone from Naples, which 
 taylors use, but bricklayers and carpenters make use «f a 
 black or red stone to mark their work. 
 
 In most places of the island iron ore is found on the sur- 
 face of the earth, in pieces of six or eight inches diameter. 
 The Minorcans make not the least use of it, whether be- 
 cause it is not fit to make iron alone, or that they are igno- 
 rant what use to make of it, or whether the want of wood 
 compels them to give up this branch of industry. 
 
 There are also lead mines at Minorca; but working them 
 does not appear likely to defray the necessary expences. 
 
 Sea shells are often found in the earth, and even petri- 
 fied fish. The Minorcims give the name of glossopetres to 
 some teeth of large fish, such as sharks; they are commonly 
 found in the quarries. 
 5
 
 MINORCAN AGRICULTURE. 99 
 
 . It is not rare to find some of the stones called toad-stones. 
 The islanders value them much, and set them in lings and 
 buttons. 
 
 There are also many kinds of fossils and petrifactions. 
 The island of Minorca produces variety of vegetables for 
 the table, and abundance of physical herbs and plants. 
 
 Wheat and barley are the only sorts of grain which are 
 sown in the island, but the produce is not sufficient for the 
 consumption of the inhabitants; they have a sraaJl quan- 
 tity of Turkish corn, which is cultivated in the environs of 
 the farms. The harvest generally begins in the middle of 
 June. When the corn is ripening, the fields are watched by 
 young boys and girls, who by hallooing, or by the noise 
 they make by beating their hand with slit reeds, endeavour 
 to frighten away the small birds, and prevent them eating 
 the corn. This was a custom in the time of the Romans: 
 Virgil, in his first book of the Georgics, makes it a precept: 
 Ei son it u terribis aves. The general produce is six for one, 
 or at most, nine for one, which is reckoned an abundant 
 harvest. They tread out the corn in places prepared for 
 that purpose, with horses or mules two or four abreast. It 
 is then winnowed : they 'carefully gather up the straw ; cut 
 it very small, and mix it with a little barley ; this serves as 
 food for horses, mules, and asses. 
 
 To manure the land they use the dung and litter of the»- 
 cattle, mixed with the sweepings of the houses. 
 
 The produce of wine, both red and white, is more than 
 sufficient for the consumption of the inhabitants; it is of a 
 very good quality. I have drunk of five or six years old, 
 some which equalled best Burgundy wines: hence they 
 cultivate the vine with peculiar care. 
 
 The olive tree flourishes in every part of the island, and 
 the husbandman leaves it almost entirely to. the care of na- 
 ture. The islanders obtain but little oil from their olives, 
 they pretend that they are dried up by the north winds; 
 they preserve them for use, but the preparation is so defec- 
 tive that a stranger can never eat them with any pleasure. 
 
 The Minorcans have plenty of several sorts of fruit; 
 oranges, lemons, and pomegranates arrive to great perfection, 
 and some sorts of apples, which are very good ; they have ex- 
 cellent pears bath in summer and winter. The island also 
 produces fig-trees, the.fruit is very good. The red mulberry- 
 tree is the only one which is cultivated., but the white would 
 thrive equally well. - Walnuts and chesnuts are very scarce. 
 
 There are some palm-trees, but they are only in use as
 
 100 ST. sauveur's travels. 
 
 being ornamental, the fruit never comes to any degree of 
 perfection. 
 
 They have roots and vegetables in abundance of every 
 kind, the beans, peas, onions, kidney beans, and cauli- 
 flowers, are excellent ; the broccoli is also very good, as are 
 the endive, pompions, and tomatoes. The spinach, car- 
 rots, and parsnips have but little flavour, the turnips are 
 hard and stringy, and are but seldom used, the lettuces are 
 tasteless, they generally mix them with cresses. The dan- 
 delion is very common in the spring, but it has an unplea- 
 sant bitterness. The Mjnorcans use an amazing quantity 
 of pepper. 
 
 The water melons, which are in season at the end of June, 
 when the heat is most powerful, are succulent and very re- 
 freshing; and whatever quantity is eaten, they very seldom 
 occasion any disagreeable sensation or illness : at every turn 
 you meet children sucking a slice of melon ; these melons 
 last till the middle of October. 
 
 The leeks of Minorca are much esteemed, and there is an 
 abundance of thyme, hyssop, marjoram, sage, parsley, sa- 
 voury, marygold, mint, beet, and sorrel ; this last is not 
 much in use among the Minorcans. Their cucumbers are 
 larger and better than ours. They have only wild aspara- 
 gus, which has a disagreeable taste. The rosemary and 
 wormwood grows naturally among the rocks, there are 
 also quantities of sea fennel and other medicinal herbs. 
 
 Almost all the old walls are covered with caper trees, and 
 capers seasoned with vinegar and salt, are much used in the 
 kitchens of the Minorcans. 
 
 It is in vain to expect or look for any taste or regularity 
 jn the gardens, utility alone is attended to, and no part is 
 devoted to pleasure or beauty. 
 
 The honey of Minorca is in great esteem, but the quan- 
 tity is not sufficient to make it an article of commerce, the 
 inhabitants pieserve the surplus of their own consumption, 
 to send as presents to their distant friends. 
 
 The island supports near sixteen hundred beasts of bur- 
 den, horses, mules, and asses. 
 
 The number of horned cattle is about six or seven thou- 
 sand. 
 
 The flocks of sheep, goats, &c. amount to forty or forty- 
 £ve thousand, besides ten thousand swine. 
 
 The number of horses is not great, and the inhabitants 
 do not endeavour to increase them, as their feed is more
 
 ANIMALS OF MINORCA. 101 
 
 expensive, and their service less than that of the mules and 
 asses, which are for this reason preferred. 
 
 The mules are strong and will feed on any thing they find 
 in their way, and may be kept in good condition with very- 
 little care. These animals are very sure footed, and possess 
 surprizing sagacity. One may see them sometimes with a 
 rider on their backs, gallop up a steep mountain, or run 
 along the edge of a precipice. They are mostly very vi- 
 cious; and often chuse the worst roads, and scrub the walls 
 as they go with the legs of the rider; whom, if by chance, 
 he let loose the bridle or stirrups, they make every effort 
 to throw from their backs. These animals will sometimes 
 live forty years. 
 
 The asses are also very strong, and serve equally well to 
 ride as to cany loads. It is not unusual to meet parties of 
 men and women riding on asses, harnessed with great neat-* 
 ness, I had almost said splendour. 
 
 The oxen and cows are small and lean, which is occa- 
 sioned by the want of pasturage, and the custom of leaving 
 them continually in the fields exposed to the weather. Cows* 
 milk is scarce and almost all used for cheese, which ;s 
 very good. Some few individuals make a small quantity 
 of butter, but it is entirely for their own use. 
 
 The sheep and goats are likewise small^ind lean, the goats' 
 rnilk is in general use. The mutton is not very good. 
 
 The swine are very large and very fat, they are kept, 
 during the autumn, in the woods, where they feed on the 
 acorns, afterwards they are confined and fed on barley. 
 Pork is in the same esteem with the Minorcans as with the 
 Mojorcans. 
 
 There are no beasts of prey in Minorca. 
 
 H:ires are very scarce, but there are great plenty of 
 rabbits. There are a great number of hedgehogs, which 
 the Spaniards eat without any dislike.' I have also -een 
 some land tortoises. 
 
 The lizards are in swarms; when the weather is fine the 
 walls are covered with them, and they often make their way 
 into the apartments. 
 
 The adder and viper are the only kind of serpents which 
 are found in the island, but there are scorpions whose sting 
 is dangerous; they are generally found in the wood piles. 
 
 The centipedes appear the moment the caudles are light- 
 ed, and make their' retreat at the break of day ; it is said 
 their sting is venomous like the scorpions. The Minorcans 
 always keep in the house vials of oil, ia which, some of
 
 102 sit- sauveur's travels. 
 
 these creatures are infused, they believe this oil to be a 
 specific. 
 
 There are many sorts of spiders, whose bite is said to be 
 venomous. 
 
 Among the birds there is no particularity. There are a 
 few eagles who build their nests in the most inaccessible 
 places in the mountains. There are also some falcons and 
 a great number of owls. The swalldws and martins are nu- 
 merous in summer. Red partridges are plenty, they are 
 excellent till after the harvest, but at that time they begin 
 to eat the wild garlic, and the berry of the mastic tree, 
 which gives them a disagreeable flavour. /The quails are 
 very fat in the hunting season. The thrush is ttxcellenl. 
 The blackbird, starling, lark, and particularly the sparrow, 
 are very common. 
 
 The wild pigeons make their nests in the hollow places 
 of the rocks, the young ones are only eaten ; there are alsa 
 a number of black and white ring-doves. Woodcocks, 
 snipes, wild ducks, and teal, are very plenty through the 
 ■whole of the winter. v 
 
 The coasts of Minorca abound with fish of different qua- 
 lities. The markets are well supplied the year round. Fish 
 is one of the chief articles of the food of the Minorcan*, 
 who in general eat but little butchers' meat. 
 
 The gold fish is excellent, and very common. 
 
 During the summer the coasts swarm with anchovies; 
 this abundance of a kind of fish, which in other places pro- 
 duce an amazing profit, might become a great article of ex- 
 portation, if the Minorcans knew, or were willing to learn, 
 the simple art of salting them ; but they content themselves 
 •with eating these fish fresh. Plaice, soals, barbel, floun- 
 ders, and tuibot, are not in such plenty ; but lampreys, 
 congers, and eels abound, and are excellent. 
 
 In summer, there are a considerable number of sardinias, 
 which the islanders eat fresh ; they are unacquainted with 
 the method of salting them. 
 
 The ponds contain excellent mullet of an extraordinary 
 size; the Minorcans salt the spawn of the female, and af- 
 terwards dry them; this preparation, which they call bo~ 
 targo, they eat to create an appetite. The rock-fish, which 
 is found among the rocks on the coast, particularly at the 
 Port of Mahon, has a delicate flavour : this fish is seldom 
 above six or eight inches in length, the body is striped with 
 blue, red, and green, in beautiful shades. The cuttle-fish 
 abounds on the shores of Minorca; the bones are useibv
 
 PITHIUSIAN ISLES. 10$ 
 
 the goldsmiths and apothecaries ; the black it affords, which 
 may be easily diluted in water, might be used instead of 
 bistre, and even in the place of China ink. 
 
 Among the shell-fish, the cray-fish is distingushed for 
 its size and flavour; shrimps and crabs are rather scarce. 
 The fish called Bernard the hermit, is one of those which is 
 most esteemed. The sea hedge-hog is the kind of shell- 
 fish most frequently found ; it abounds on the rocks, 
 and the Minorcans eat it in astonishing quantities. Of 
 small shells, the most common are muscles, cockles, the 
 Conchae veneris, and the Nerita>«« species of oyster. The 
 Hautulus is often found, but its shell is so fine that it often 
 breaks at the touch. The Pinna magna is not scarce: it 
 has within its shell the same brilliancy as mother of pearl, 
 but it is on the outside rough and covered with prickles. 
 The Pinna parva is also found here, the surface of which 
 is very shining. I have already mentioned the star-fish and 
 oysters. * 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 SITUATION, EXTENT, COAST, AND ANCHORAGE OF THE 
 PITII1USIAN ISLES. 
 
 X HE isle of Ivica is the most considerable of the Pithi- 
 
 uses, and is in most parts high, full of mountains and hil- 
 locks of a pleasing appearance, interspersed with beautiful 
 and fertile vallies. 
 
 The principal ports are those of Ivica to the S. E. of the 
 island, and Porto Magno, or Saint Anthony, to the N. W. 
 
 There are innumerable small bays, roadsteads, and lesser 
 isles on the coasts of the Pithiuses ; a description of which 
 would be of but little interest to the general reader, or in- 
 deed to any but those who might desire to have a know- 
 ledge of the pilotage. 
 
 The isle of Formentera is situated to the south of that of 
 Ivica, from which it is separated by a strait of two miles 
 and a half in width. This island is not of any elevation; 
 it is nearly eght miles in length from east to west, and 
 about as many in width from north to south. It is in lati- 
 tude 38° 40' 30" and in longitude 7° 35' 27" east,, from th* 
 Royal. Observatory at Cadiz.
 
 104 ST. SAUVEUR/S TRAVER.S. 
 
 The remarkable capes and points of Formentera are Es-» 
 palmader, Prima, and La Mola, which form the east coast 
 or* the island, and the points Anguila, Gavina, and Capa 
 Berberra. 
 
 Ivica is the largest and best peopled of the Pilhiusian 
 Isles, and was called by the ancients Ebusus. It runs N. E. 
 and S. YV. being in the form of a pentagon; its greatest 
 extent is seven leagues, by three and a half in width ; Ivica 
 is to the north of Formentera two long miles. The latitude 
 of Ivica is 38° 53' 16" north, and 7° 38' 12' east, from the 
 Iloyal Observatory at Cadiz. 
 
 This island is divided into five parts, which the inhabi- 
 tants call quartons, that is to say La Plaine de la Ville, 
 Saint Eulalio, Balanzat, Pormany, and the Salines, or salt- 
 pits. 
 
 La Plaine de la Ville is the principal quarter, and has 
 Ivica for its capital, which is at the same time the see of a 
 bishop. The other quartons surround this, the territory of 
 whioh occupies a league and a half; Ivica is situated to 
 the south, under the cannon of a small fortress, built on a 
 hill, of the time of Charles the Fifth, and repaired in the 
 reiarn of Ferdinand the Sixth. This fortress is of little im- 
 portance; the works of which it is composed are nothing 
 more than some bastions and covert ways, without any 
 moat. The interior contains about two hundred houses, in- 
 habited by nearly nine hundred islanders; the cathedral, 
 six churches, a convent, and barracks for two battalions. At 
 the sallyport of the fortress to the east, is the suburb, or the 
 aravalle, of about four hundred and twenty houses, and 
 from seventeen to eighteen hundred inhabitants. 
 
 The most esteemed of the ancient authors are divided in 
 their opinions as to the foundation of Ivica, some of them 
 attribute it to the Phoenicians, but the greater part of them 
 to the Carthagenians, and place that epoch about one hun- 
 dred and seventy years after the foundation of Carthage. 
 The sterility of the soil obtained it the name of Ebusus, 
 which, in the punic tongue, signifies unfruitful. 
 
 The Port of Ivica is the principal one of the island ; it is 
 large, commodious, and sheltered on every side. The little 
 island of Formentera, which is close to it, defends it against 
 the south-west and southern winds. The island Plane, ne;.r 
 the coast, protects it from the east and south-east, and the 
 heights of the hills which surround it, shelter it from every 
 other. 
 
 TUe anchorage has good holding ground, but it is neees-
 
 TOPOGRAPHICAL KE^ARfcS. 10S 
 
 «arv to clear the bottom, which fills up insensibly, and i-s 
 much hurt by the quantities of ballast thrown from the 
 vessels that come to take salt. This abuse will in time de- 
 stroy the anchorage at Ivica. The bottom is sandy, and, 
 with the greatest ease, thc.pdrt might be made one of the 
 best in the Mediterranean. 
 
 Besides the capital, this quartori contains about two hun- 
 dred habitations, forming different small hamlets, of which 
 the population may be nine hundred souls. Ivica furnishes 
 for its defence a company of 120 men, commanded by a 
 captain. 
 
 The road of Ivica is delightfully pleasant, and is bordered 
 on each side with vineyards and gardens.. 
 
 The coasts of this quarton begins at Cape Artdreus, and 
 terminates with the Bay Quifeu. 
 
 The district of Saint Eulalie comprises Ivica and Balan- 
 zat, and is four leagues in extent. The number of houses 
 is at least seven hundred, separated one from the other, 
 and not forming a town or village. There are two churches. 
 The population amounts to nearly four thousand souls, and 
 the militia consists of seven hundred men, commanded by 
 different captain's. 
 
 The territory of Balanzat is nearly three leagues in extent, 
 and joins Pormanie, Saint Eulalie, and Ivica. There is k 
 church. The number of the inhabitants may be 2,300, 
 occupying 400 houses; the military force of Balanzat con- 
 sists of a company of 300 men. The space between the 
 port of Balanzat and Ping de Nono joins the side of this 
 quarton. 
 
 The district of Pormanie joins that of Balanzat, the SalineS 
 and Ivica; its territory is about four leagues in extent; h 
 is chiefly mountainous, but incloses a most fertile plaiu ; it 
 bas four hundred and fifty habitations, containing two 
 thousand one hundred islanders, three hundred and fifty, 
 of whom ale enrolled for the defence of the country. 
 
 The quarton des Salines, which owes its name to the 
 quantity of salt it produces, comprises Pormanie and Ivica. 
 Its territory is only two leagues in extent ; its population 
 amounts to about nine hundred souls, and the number of 
 the habitations are two hundred. A company of two hun- 
 dred men is kept for its defence. To the south of the Sa- 
 lines there is a handsome plain, where the parish church is 
 situated. 
 
 A strait of two miles separates the island of Formentera 
 from that of Ivica. The ancients distinguished it by the 
 
 ST; SAUVEUR.] O
 
 106 ST. SAUVEUR'S TRAVEf.S. 
 
 name of Pithiuses Minor. The name of Formentera, which 
 it bears at present, seems to be derived from the consider- 
 able quantity of corn which is produced on this little 
 island. It runs east and west; its greatest length is three 
 leagues, but in width it is very irregular, varying from two 
 leagues to one, and being not more than three gun-shots 
 wide in the narrowest part. Its population amounts to 
 twelve hundred islanders, whose habitations are scattered 
 over the face of the country. , 
 
 The anonymous author of a manuscript, in the yeat 
 ]6'20, on the History of the Pithiusian Isles, in speaking of 
 the Port Sali, observes, that that spot would be very pro- 
 per whereon to build a city : there is t.tone and wood at 
 hand. It should seem, in judging by the ruins which are 
 still to be seen, and by the number of wells, that there was 
 a town in existence in the time of the Romans. The same 
 author observing, that at low water the strait could hi: 
 passed over on foot, is of opinion that it could be easy to 
 re-unite these two islands by filling up this passage. The 
 considerable depth of water in the strait would, however, 
 always present numerous difficulties to the undertaking, 
 which, if surmounted, would have no other effect than to 
 shut up, without any benefit, one of the passes of the Port 
 of Ivica. 
 
 The climate of the Pithiuses is soft and salubrious during 
 the summer; the breeze from the sea tempers the heat, and 
 the cold in winter is moderate. As a proof of the excel- 
 lence of the climate of these islands, they adduce the cir- 
 cumstance of their not having any venomous animals : it 
 has been remarked, that those even which have been brought 
 thither have lived but a short time. Itappears to me, that 
 this property may be more justly attributed to the quality 
 of the earth, of which were made the celebrated vases of 
 the ancient inhabitants of the Pithiuses. This opinion is 
 strengthened by observing, that on the coast of Valence, 
 that is to say in the same climate, another island is filled 
 with serpents and venomous animuls; from which the an- 
 cients named it Ophuisa, and the moderns still denominate 
 it Moncalobrer. 
 
 The land is in general mountainous and woody; it U 
 capable of any cultivation, but particularly for olives. Thr; 
 * shelving of the hills presents an aspect the most favour- 
 able of any for the vine. 
 
 These islands prodnee a quantity of corn, wine, and oils, 
 considerably more than serves for the consumption of the
 
 INHABITANTS OF THE PITIITUSES. 107 
 
 island. The harvest of these articles could be easily made 
 more abundant : the ambition of the islanders, who are of 
 an indolent habit, and possessing little knowledge of the 
 art of cultivation, is satisfied with a produce, the result of 
 the natural richness of the soil, with as little labour as 
 possible. 
 
 The flocks of the larger and smaller kinds of cattle are 
 sufficiently numerous for the consumption of the islanders, 
 but the number and quality of the horses, mules, and other 
 beasts of burden, does not answer to the abundance and 
 excellence of the pasturage. 
 
 Game is very plentiful in the Pithiusian isles; and 
 there is fouud, about a pond in the island of Formenlera, 
 a kind of pheasant, remarkable for the beauty and variety 
 of its plumage. 
 
 The coasts abound with fish, of a fine and delicate fla- 
 vour. 
 
 The islanders are supplied with a great quantity of fruits 
 and vegetables from their gardens; among the first the al- 
 monds and figs are admired for their quality, and among 
 the second, the water melons are much in esteem. 
 
 The produce of flax and hemp is sufficient for the con- 
 sumption of the island. 
 
 Salt is the principal article of wealth to the Pithiusians : 
 it is collected in the month of August, and yields, in com- 
 mon years, from CO to 25,000 modines, of fifteen pounds 
 the modine, which make the amount of one hundred and 
 seventy-five thousand pounds. The salt is conveyed on the 
 backs of mules, to three different points of the coast, whi- 
 ther the merchant vessels come to freight with that com- 
 modity. 
 
 The inhabitants of the Pithiuses are in general of middle 
 size, and active ; their complexion is swarthy; they have a 
 great deal of mildness in their character ; are good seamen, 
 and occupy themselves principally in navigation. There 
 may sometimes be counted in the port of Ivica as many as 
 sixty xebecks of different burthens. 
 
 The islanders have the reputation of being brave, and 
 have more than once evinced their valour against the Bar- 
 bary corsairs. Their language and costume is, with very 
 little variation, the same as with the Balearians. 
 
 \\ ith the means of competence preseuted b}' the excel- 
 lency of the soil, one is astonished at the state of poverty 
 of the Ivicans. To the most estimable qualities they unite 
 an indolence, and inconceivable aversion for labour : they 
 
 O <*
 
 -08 {ST. 5AUT?UR'S TRAVELS. 
 
 carry their indifference for agriculture to trie length of cul- 
 tivating only as much ground as will serve for their indi- 
 vidual wants; but, littie advanced in the art of culture, they 
 abide obstinately by their old habits, and oppose them- 
 selves to every improvement which may be strange to them, 
 or differ from the method to which they have been accus- 
 tomed. 
 
 I have been made acquainted with the fact, that a Valen- 
 tian, who came there to settle at lvica, had began to till a 
 piece of ground, to cultivate various productions according 
 to the manner of his country ; but his neighbours gaye him 
 a hint to proceed no farther in his work, and even threatened, 
 his life, lor introducing innovations in the customs of the 
 island. Nature is alone at the whole cost of supplying the 
 Ivicans with food. There may every where be seen plots 
 of ground, of the most excellent quality, entirely fallow. 
 The olive trees grow and give their increase without any 
 assistance from the cultivator ; the vine is not more at- 
 tended ; the oil and the wine are made with so little care, 
 and b}' such imperfect methods, that the islanders do not 
 realize more than one half of the produce. A governor of 
 lvica tried the experiment of planting some mulberry tree? 
 in the island, and of introducing the art of breeding silk- 
 worms. The trial succeeded : they produced specimens of 
 silk of the finest and most beautiful kind ; but this new 
 branch of wealth, was presently lost by the extreme apathy 
 of the islanders. 
 
 The Ivicans are acquainted only with those arts which, 
 are of the first necessity; the chief object of which is to 
 guard them from the injuries cf the weather. Their habi- 
 tations are without ornament, and their dress unseemly. 
 7'hose of the islanders who enjoy easy fortunes, procure all 
 their articles of comfort and convenience from Spain and 
 the Baiearics. The good Ivicans arc certainly untainted by 
 the poison of luxury. In travelling over the island, the 
 stranger fancies himself in a country where civilization had 
 not yet readied. There js scarcely one passable road, with 
 the exception of those which are neighbouring on the dif- 
 ferent settlements, or which lead to the points of the coast 
 where the vessels take their lading of salt.
 
 [ 109 3 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS OF THE INHABI- 
 TANTS OF THE BALEARIC AND PITHIUSIAN ISLANDS. 
 
 XVxOST travellers form their opinions .of 'he people of a 
 poiintry, and affirm decidedly on their character and man- 
 ners, according to what they observe most striking in the 
 external customs in those towns through which they hitve 
 passed ; and their judgment is often influenced by their re- . 
 ception at particular houses. In the iirst case, we cannot 
 depend on observations so lightly founded ; and in the 
 second, one may always perceive either a sentiment of gra- 
 titude, or the impression of some dislike. It is not gene- 
 rally in towns and cities that acquaintance with strangers is 
 most easily made, and the national character developed ia 
 a manner to be depended on by the unprejudiced observer; 
 but as the traveller draws nearer the simple inhabitant of 
 the country, follows him into the bosom of his family, in 
 his labours, and is with him in his national and religious 
 festivals ; he will then become more accurately acquainted 
 with the real character and manners of the people, unso- 
 phisticated with the vices and customs of cities. 
 
 We are equally deceived, in supposing that it is possible 
 Xo obtain a knowledge of the genius and character of a peo- 
 ple from the systems of the philosophers. The disciples of 
 Plato, in attributing these diversities to the influence of the 
 stars and the climate, never take infcp consideration the 
 nature of the government, and the mode of education, as 
 a secondary cause. The stars, no doubt, have an influence 
 on man, but do not govern or determine his actions; 
 he does not owe to them the lights of reason, and his will 
 is ever free. If it were not so, what merit would he have 
 in the practice of virtue, or how could he be condemned 
 for his vices. Can we admit the fabulous system of the 
 destinies, or put any faith in the extravagancies of the judi- 
 cial astrology of the impostors of every age. 
 
 We may admit that the climate has some influence on 
 the Operation's of the mind, as far as the mind participates 
 in the organic affections of the body, and the vibration of 
 the fibres, and has an effect more or less on the circulation
 
 ilO st. sauveur's travels. 
 
 of the blood ; but to believe it the first and absolute cause 
 of the genius and character of a people, seems to me to be 
 a paradox. Do we not see nations, living under the same 
 climate, of very different talents and disposition ? And do 
 we not also find a perfect uniformity in other nations en- 
 tirely dissimilar. In the same topographical point on the 
 globe, the borders of the Oroonoko are covered with small 
 nations, the diversity of whose genius and character is 
 very striking. There the traveller finds himself among a 
 people who are lively, humane, and loyal ; and eats with 
 them the sweet fruit of the plantane and the date tree. 
 There is another nation rude, warlike, ferocious, and un- 
 governable; who offer him as food the flesh, and for drink, 
 the blood of a human creature like himself. A little farther 
 are people whose women are martial and eloquent, and who 
 give laws to the men, who arc taciturn and indolent. 
 
 Another nation presents the spectacle of nature debased 
 Almost to a level with the brute creation, in a people who 
 feed on the very earth,, or on a kind of paste, of which earth 
 forms a chief part. And again, a little distant are another 
 race, so stupidly credulous in the skill of their physicians, 
 that all the goods of the sick are left at their mercy> whether 
 they kill or cure their patients, and the indifference and in- 
 sensibility of these people is so extreme, that they place 
 ■under the netting where their sick relative or friend is lain, 
 his share of the provisions, without caring whether he takes 
 them or not. Such are the observations which we find in 
 the history of Oroonoko by Guruilla. 
 
 In producing the examples of savage nations, I wished to 
 omit nothing which could determine whether climate has 
 the influence attributed to it. Let us carry our observations 
 to the civilized nations of Europe, and we shall often *ee a 
 great similarity of genius and character, between nations 
 under very different temperatures; let us observe the 
 Flemings or Braban<jons, and we shall find among them, 
 the habits, the inclinations, the civil and religious customs 
 of the Spaniards, and yet how different is the temperature. 
 Fn vain has Madden, in his first volume of the Critical History 
 of Spain, wasted so much erudition to prove the preponde- 
 rate influence of the climate. Wc reject the opinion that 
 the movements of tbe soul are directed by the air, and fol- 
 low the impressions of heat apd cold like a barometer. 
 
 The religion and political government of a people are the 
 chief causes which give to the national genius its .impulse, 
 its form, and character. With ever so little knowledge of 
 5
 
 ON THE INFLUENCE OF CLIMATE. Ill 
 
 history, one may be convinced of this truth. Among the 
 pagans we see the people barbarous, unpolished and super- 
 stitious, giving themselves up to their passions without re- 
 straint. The propagation of the gospel brought men back 
 to the love of truth, and of the social virtues; the people 
 became moderate, just, and humane. After religion, the 
 laws, and government, with the example of those above 
 them, have the most decisive and powerful influence. The 
 Romans, in the reign of Augustus, were invincible; in that 
 of Claudius, indolent and easily conquered; with Nero, 
 cruel; and with Vitcllus, vicious ; they were just, merciful, 
 and benevolent, from the examples of the Vcspasians and of 
 Titus. Without going back to so remote a period, let us 
 consider the times in which we ourselves live. Is it the in- 
 fluence of the climate, which has, of people the most gene- 
 rous, the most humane, the bravest, and the most civilized, 
 made at once a nation, whose excesses, crimes, and follies 
 have astonished and shocked all Europe. Among savage 
 people, who live under the same climate, the variety of dis- 
 positions and of character may be attributed to the want of 
 an established religion, for Which they substitute the deli- 
 riums of their own imaginations, and to the want of whole- 
 some laws, not knowing any but those of force, nor having 
 to their actions any other guide than their own personal in- 
 terests. 
 
 National genius naturally follows the changes of the re- 
 ligion and of the government. The present Greeks, under 
 the Ottoman dominion, are only ignorant; superstitious, and 
 contemptible people, while their ancestors were illustrious 
 in the arts and sciences, and deservedly celebrated both iu 
 the times of peace and war. 
 
 When religion and the form of government remain 
 without any changes, the national character also continues 
 without alteration; thus the inhabitants of the Baleares, pro- 
 cessing the same religion, and subject to the same laws as 
 the rest of the kingdom of Spain, have necessarily the same 
 character, with some little difference, which is the result of 
 a subjection to the Moors, that lasted above five hundred 
 years ; these shades of character disappeared on the conti- 
 nent, in consequence of easy and frequent communica- 
 tions with other nations. 
 
 Strabo, Diodorus Siculus, and all the historians who 
 have preserved to us the memory of the ancient inhabi- 
 tants of the Baleares, agree in depicting them as a brave, 
 warlike people, who were extremely expert in the use of the
 
 112 St. SAfcVEUlt's TRAVfetS. 
 
 sling. Some difference, however, may be observed in these 
 two authors; butlt must be admitted that Diodorus, in speak- 
 ing of the inhabitants of these islands, refers to an epoch 
 anterior to their civilization. Strab'6 on tlie contrary de- 
 picts the people who inhabited the Baleares in his time. 
 They lived, according to this writer, in perpetual peace, and 
 in uninterrupted prosperity. Thus he calls them Irenics, ot 
 Pacific, not that these people were indolent or effeminate, 
 for they always proved the contrary, and distinguished 
 themselves by their courage and valour, when their ene- 
 mies compelled them to take up arms. 
 
 Diodorus paints these islanders in such dismal colours, 
 that it is with reluctance we copy the picture: " There are 
 '• some other islands, says this writer, in front of Iberia, 
 tf called by the Greeks, gj-mnasics, because the inhabitants 
 " wear no clothes in summer. Tliey are much given to 
 " wine, which the island does not produce, and as they 
 4t have no olive oil, they grease or anoint themselves with 
 .*' that of the lentisk or mastic tree, or with hog's grease. 
 * They are so fond of women, that they will give three or 
 *' four men in exchange for one : they live in caverns of 
 *' the rocks, and so far from making use of gold or silver, 
 " they will not suffer it to be tyken from the island by 
 *' others ; they affirm that these metals were the cause of 
 " the death of Geryon, killed by Hercules. When they 
 " went to war with the Carthagehians, with whom they 
 f* were allied, they took their pay in wine and women. 
 H hi their marriages the relations and friends enjoyed them- 
 tc selves with the bride while the husband got drunk. They 
 * c cut the bodies of their dead into pieces, and deposited 
 " them in urns, on which they placed great stones." 
 
 The historian Dameto, fearing that the account given by 
 Diodorus might leave a kind of stain or blemish on the cha- 
 racter of his fellow citizens, and not being able to urge a 
 better defence, or rather paying no attention to the remold 
 epoch to which the Sicilian historian alluded, accuses him 
 at once of deception. But of what import is it in the pre- 
 sent days, particularly to the inhabitants of the Baleares, 
 that their ancestors in the earliest times abandoned them- 
 selves to vices that their p«reterity are far from .imitating ? 
 or that when they were incommoded by the heat, they 
 •wore no kind of raiment; are their descendants On this ac- 
 count the worse clothed ? 
 
 For my p;ut, I found among the Majorcans many estimable 
 qualities; they shew great respect to strangers, who may,
 
 RUSTIC AMUSfeiifcNTS. 113 
 
 without feor, travel by night or by day through the country ; 
 and even among the mountains, and in the most solitary 
 places. The most hospitable reception is given to the tra- 
 veller ; and in accepting the civilities of the good peasantry, 
 he is in doubt on which side the obligation lies. 
 
 Besides the amusements of the theatre, the Majorcan* 
 have some particular festivals. The carnival is spent in 
 balls and masquerades, which are given in tlie great hall of 
 the exchange. 
 
 From the festival of St. John to the month of September 
 the streets of the city of Pal ma present every evening suc- 
 cessively a most lively scene. All the inhabitants of the 1 
 quarter pique themselves on decorating the fronts of their 
 houses with pictures and draperies, and their doors and win- 
 dows witli glass lamps of various colours. Musicians from 
 the bands belonging to the garrison, placed on an amphi- 
 theatre, play country dances, which are tripped to gaily and- 
 correctly by the young and active. Each side of the street 
 is furnished with chairs for the spectators, little cakes, li- 
 queurs, and other refreshments are carried round and sold 
 in the assembly, and the amusements continue till day- 
 light. 
 
 On the twentieth of August they hold a fair for cattle in, 
 a large plain, about two leagues from Palma, near an abbey 
 oi- Bernardine monks. The people go thither in crowds, 
 every kind of conveyance is engaged, even to the carts," 
 which are hired at a dear rate. The plain is covered with 
 little shops or booths, where in the midst of bleating flocks 
 are groups of young people sitting on ihe grass, under the 
 shade of aft olive tree, e.ijo -. ing a rural repast; at a little 
 distance is another party dancing to the sound of rustic mu- 
 sic. If a stranger appear, he is pressed to join in the festi- 
 vity and partake of the feast, and they are delighted if he 
 accept the invitation. 
 
 On the festival of the patron saint they have, in the vil- 
 lages, horse races, and other races of asses and mules; 
 young lads, and even lasses, dispute the prize of agility; a 
 large plain is the scene where these sports are exhibited ; an 
 old man with a wand in his hand keeps good order, and de- 
 crees the prize to the victor ; the men are rewarded with a 
 couple of fowls, &c. and sometimes the prizes are horse 
 shoes ; the young girls who are victorious carry home to 
 their mothers an Indian Kebozillo. How real is the en- 
 joyment of these happy peasants; what purity and simplicity 
 in their manners ? 
 
 ST. SAUVKUR.] P
 
 IH st, sauveur's travels. 
 
 In all the festivals at which the people meet together in 
 crowds there are never any quarrels nor disturbances ; a per- 
 fect harmony prevails, that at once delights and astonishes 
 the traveller. During the whole or* the time that I lived 
 among these islanders, I never knew of any one of them 
 being found guilty of crimes that deserved condign punish- 
 ment. The thefts and outrages were always committed by 
 foreigners. In the city the same mildness of character is 
 pbservable, but is unhappily mixed with an iqterestedness 
 and avarice, strongly marked. There is also to be noticed 
 a strong tint of vanity among persons of a distinguished 
 pank, who acknowledge no superior, and among those me- 
 chanics who fancy they have attained the utmost perfection 
 in the art they profess : question any workman, before he 
 answers, he will ask you if at London or Paris they execute 
 any work as well as at Minorca; if you tell him that the 
 superiority is on the side of the English or French, he bursts 
 into a horse laugh and seems to pity your ignorance. Never- 
 theless it cannot be denied that the Majorcans have genius, 
 with a ready conception, and talents for the arts and 
 sciences. 
 
 The Minorcans in old times have always shared the repu> 
 tation pf courage and skill in the use of the sling, with the 
 "Majorcans. In the present day these islanders are reproach- 
 ed with a sort of apathy and indolepce which they have con-: 
 traded by the continual changes in different governments, 
 tp which they have been subject. The fear of having new 
 masters makes no sort of impression qn them. They re- 
 ceiye with docility, I had almost said with indifference, the 
 laws which are prescribed them. Content to live in a state 
 of mediocrity, they only desire to maintain their repose. 
 They take very little interest in political events, and always 
 *hew q, decided repugnance when they leave their native 
 place, to enroll themselves under the colours of the sove- 
 reign. If, in the time when tb,e English were their masters, 
 they shewed a sort' of activity, it was confined to a small 
 number of speculators and seafaring people, who enriched 
 themselves without much trouble, by enterprises confined 
 to, the coasts of the islands, and those of the continent of 
 hpam. 'the remainder of the inhabitants preserved their 
 natural indolence. When they were subject to Spain there 
 v,ere no Minorcau vessels fitted out, the facility of cruising 
 v, as no longer the same, on the contrary there were dangers 
 which they had no wish to encounter, and fame alone could 
 :. * icconipcncQ a people who seemed so little sensible of
 
 rcSTlVlTlES OF THE MINORCA NS'."' Il3 
 
 its value. A MinorCan is easily dazzled by the smallest de- 
 gree of success; prosperity does not produce in him emula- 
 tion, but pride and arrogance. These islanders are at the 
 Same time veTy envious one of another, ira'scible, given to 
 hatred and revenge, and practising all sorts of shuffling 
 tricks, in short, they have all the defects of people of weak 
 minds, and Or characters without energy. The distance 
 that is maintained between the different classes of people 
 is very striking. The noble thinks himself very much above 
 the merchant, and those employed in the merchant-service; 
 ■while these in their turn affect a great superiority towards 
 the mechanic and the countryman. 
 
 The Minorcans live very retired ; they, however, give 
 the stranger an hospitable reception, and seem to see hitri 
 with pleasure, but in reality all their attentions are only for 
 the moment, and they encourage no particular intimacy ; 
 their habitations are the residences of tranquillity and soli- 
 tude; their festivals have the same character with them- 
 selves. At the carnival they, dress in masquerade in the 
 evenings, and go to the houses of their friends and rela- 
 tions, where they dance to the sound of a guitar or wretched 
 Violin. During the evenings of the summer we Often see 
 groups of men and women in the streets, and in the centre 
 of each group, a man and woman, who in an awkward man- 
 ner imitate the Spanish fandango, while the whole of the 
 orchestra consists of a guitar, upon which any one who 
 pleases may play, though he knows little more of the science 
 than running his fingers over the strings. A lamp hung 
 over the door of the house where this group are entertained, 
 
 fives light to the joyous assembly. Every one who chnses 
 ances in his turn, and pays a trifling sum. And the ball 
 always concludes with the most noisy acclamations. 
 
 St. John's day is celebrated by races of horses, mules, 
 and asses, which take place in one of the principal streets 
 of the town. The competitors are of the common people, 
 who are extremely delighted if they win a small silver spuou, 
 or some other trifle, as a prize in these games. 
 1 The mariners keep the feast of St. Peter by boat races in 
 the port; those who are first in receive the prize, which i>. 
 a hat ornamented with a coloured ribbon. These spectacles 
 attract a croud of the inhabitants, who all seem to take ar 
 great interest in the performance. 
 
 The Minorcans are generally superstitious, and much at- 
 tached to their religious ceremonies and processions, in 
 which they are alwavs' desirous of t playing a part. On tin 
 
 p 2
 
 H6 $t. sauveur's travels. 
 
 day on which the Fete Dieu is kept, whoever can exhibit 
 themselves in the costume of the Roman warriors ; whoever 
 can send thither one of his children dressed to represent an 
 angel, purchase 10 themselves the privilege of being eiothed 
 in a religious habit at the time of their death. 
 
 The Ivieans have nearly the same character and customs 
 as the inhabitants of the Baleancs; they only differ in their 
 extreme ignorance and coarseness of manners. Neverthe- 
 less they are said to be brave and good seamen. 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 TIIE INDUSTRY AND COMMERCE OF THE BALEARIC AND 
 PITH1USIAN JSLES, WITH THE DIALECT OP THE INHA- 
 BITANTS. 
 
 xN a country where agriculture, the first of the arts, is 
 still in its infancy, any great degree of skill or industry is 
 not to be expected ; neither can there be any diversity of 
 manufactures. The islanders entertain among them those 
 arts and trades which may be denominated of absolute ne- 
 cessity; such as those of building, clothing, &c. The articles 
 which are manufactured in their workshops for exportation 
 are in no great quantity. 
 
 The Majorcans manufacture blankets, carpets, and wor- 
 sted sashes, some of which are sent to Malta, to Valence, 
 Sardinia, and even to America. Neither the quantity nor 
 quality of these manufactures can make them very profit- 
 able articles of exportation. 
 
 The people wear a sort of coarse cloth, which is manu- 
 factured in the island; they also wear a kind of woollen 
 striped stuff, that is equally coarse and clumsily made ; a 
 small part of this is sent to Catalonia and Valence. 
 
 The whole of their linen cloth is consumed in the island, 
 and does not constitute one of their articles of exportation, 
 with the exception only of the quantity for the use of the 
 navy, which is sent to the ports of Spain. It is in general 
 thought to be good, but is of high price. 
 
 The Majorcans manufacture their silk into taffeties, da- 
 masks, Sic. which are never exported. 
 
 These islanders have a great reputation in Spaiu for their
 
 TRADE OF TliE MAJORCANS. l'lY 
 
 -inlaid-work, nnd they seem to me very well to observe it. 
 Their articles have a strength and solidity which make 
 them very durable; and in many of their designs may be 
 noticed an execution, which must have required as much 
 patience as skill ; but it is to be regretted, that in all 
 their labours there is still the fashion of the fifteenth cen- 
 tury. In general their designs are mostly executed with 
 great neatness, but the quantity and sameness of them 
 give these articles an antique appearance, which can never 
 please the eye of foreigners, accustomed to see the simple 
 beautiful shapes of modern furniture. Some of the Mnjor- 
 can articles, of this kind of inlaid work, are expensive, being 
 washed with silver; but these are not so well executed, nor 
 do they look to so much advantage. The Majorcans are 
 not expert in the art of gilding, and there are never to be 
 seen any of those elegant ornaments in bronze and gilt 
 copper, which are so much admired in France. 
 
 At Paltna there is a free-school, to teach the art of draw- 
 ing, where the young go to take lessons in the inlaid-work. 
 This establishment is under the protection of the society 
 called " The Friends of the Country." 
 
 There arc also two printing houses, but they only print' 
 the decrees and proclamations of the government, notices' 
 to the public, and a journal, in which is announced the 
 arrival and departure of the trading vessels, the state of 
 their cargoes, and the commodities which are to be pub- 
 licly sold. These printing houses are so ill managed and 
 ill furnished, that if they were united they could not print 
 an edition of the smallest literary work. 
 
 The Majorcans make a great quantity of brooms and 
 baskets of the leaves of the palm tree. Although i his ar- 
 ticle is of little consideration, they do not fail to export it 
 to a certain amount for the ports of Spain, and even for 
 Marseilles in time of peace. The ventures of the masters 
 of the merchantmen and of the Majorcan 3ailors often 
 consist of the leaves of the palm. 
 
 There is a glass-house at Palma, where, however, they 
 make only the most common glass. They do not even 
 know how to fabricate the black glass. This manufactory 
 does not export any of its articles. 
 
 In making the article of oil, the Majorcans, after having 
 extracted it from the olive, content themselves with pres- 
 sing it twice from the gTOss, or crust. This second oil is 
 added to the first : they throw away the gross, from which,
 
 118 ST. SAUVEUfi's TRAVELS. 
 
 however, they might still draw a considerable quantity of 
 good oil. 
 
 They only make use of soft soap, and are not at all ac- 
 quainted with the method or' making it into cakes. 
 
 The Major cans do not derive any advantage from their 
 orange-flowers, angelica, wild celery, or maidenhair, nor 
 from their immense quantity of flowers, not even from the 
 roses. It is now four years since a French distiller, in 
 partnership with a Genoese, set up at Majorca. The So- 
 ciety of the Friends of the Country welcomed them, and 
 gave them sanction, and obtained an exclusive privilege in 
 their favour for the distillation of orange flowers for the 
 term of six years. I left that establishment in a state of 
 forwardness, which gave every promise of success. 
 
 An aptitude, and even taste, for the arts and sciences of 
 every kind, cannot be denied to the Majorean. This 
 island is yet but a new country, where the moral virtues of 
 the inhabitants, and the productions of the soil, are capable 
 of the most happy deveiopement. 
 
 The Minorcans and the Ivicans have really no kind of 
 manufacture which could be an article of exportation ; the 
 physical productions of their islands are the only article? 
 of which a small portion is sometimes sent abroad. 
 
 The Balearics were for a long time the center of a flou- 
 rishing and extensive commerce. They were not indebted 
 to their local wealth for this prosperity, but to their advan- 
 tageous situation, between the shores of Africa and Spain. 
 Among the first settlers in the Balearics were the Phoenicians 
 and Greeks: these people were merchants and seamen. They 
 carried with them into their new settlements the spirit of 
 trade, and their skill in navigation. The Romans, more 
 emulous of the glory acquired by conquest than the posses- 
 sion of wealth, gained by deep speculations, continued, 
 however, for their own interest, to pioteet the trade and 
 navigation of those commercial nations which submitted to 
 their laws. The inhabitants of the Balearics participated in 
 these encouragements. J hey then became subject to the 
 Moors, the descendants of the Carthagenians, who were so 
 famous for their maritime power ; for the wealth which 
 came to their ports, fur their extensive commercial con- 
 nections, and for their astonishing industry and activity. If 
 the Africans, when masters of Majorca, be compared with 
 the conquerors of the Romans and the conquerors of 
 "Spain, we may observe, that they have always in a 
 degree preserved the mercantile spirit, which dist'm-
 
 HISTORY OF MAJORCA. 119 
 
 guished and enriched their ancestors. It may also be 
 observed that they communicated their particular habits 
 and necessities to the inhabitants of the Balearics, a4 well, 
 at the same time, as the desire of supplying them, I mean 
 at the epoch of the conquest of Majorca by king Don J ay me 
 the First. They yet preserve in the archives of Pal ma, records 
 which are authentic monuments of the former prosperity of 
 these islanders. Don J ay me the First, peaceable possessor of 
 the island of Majorca, occupied himself in the partition of 
 the lands; he kept one half, and divided the other among 
 the lords who had accompanied him, and assisted in the 
 conquest. The proprietors were for a long time themselves 
 the managers of their possessions, attending- to the cultiva- 
 tion of the grounds, and the increase of their value. Pre- 
 scribed at first to the enjoyment of the particular produc- 
 tions of the island, they soon afterwards opened their eyes 
 to the facilities which the situation offered for procuring in 
 abundance all that was necessary to their wants. The 
 inhabitant of the country was solely charged with the 
 work of agriculture. The proprietor took up his resi- 
 dence in the town, became speculator, merchant, and na- 
 vigator ; his progress was rapid, and the most flattering 
 success encouraged and recompensed the first efforts of his 
 industry. Commercial establishments were formed at Pal ma; 
 its port became filled with merchant ships, and these might 
 be reckoned three hundred square-rigged vessels at the 
 commencement of the thirteenth century. New settlers 
 arrived to augment the population of the country, and a 
 great number of the villages which now remain, were built 
 about the same epoch. 
 
 The ruins of ancient edifices constitute irrevocable testi- 
 monies of remote revolutions. There are not to be seen at 
 Majorca the remains of temples, nor of public buildings. 
 We do not meet with those monumental inscriptions, which 
 ill Greece help to acquaint us with the religion, laws, and 
 manners, in a word, with the history of the first inha- 
 bitants; but here the traveller will find the traces of the 
 flourishing state of the Balearic isles posterior to those 
 eyents. We cannot but contemplate with interest, the Ex- 
 change of Palma, and the grandeur of that edifice. ,.The 
 beauty and boldness of the architecture of which attest 
 the wealth of the commerce, and the progress of the arts, 
 from the thirteenth century. The inclosure of the walls of 
 the city, on the side of the sea, is altogether modern : it 
 separates, the Place Terra-Sana frQin the sea-shore, of
 
 I2Q ST, SAUVBLR's TRAVELS. 
 
 nhich it formerly made part. There may yet be seen the 
 qncient gate which communicated with the port. Li going 
 from the town to the sea-side is the suburb St. Catharine, 
 inhabited by the sailors : this suburb formerly extended as 
 far as the hill where the Castle of Bel voir is situated, the 
 remains of which may still be seen ; and at that time the 
 population must have been much more considerable. The 
 number of seamen is, without contradiction, the most evi- 
 dent proof of the progress and flourishing state of naviga- 
 tion. There is also to be seen some remains of docks for 
 the building of ships, and of storehouses situated on the 
 sjiores of the semi-circle, which is described by the road- 
 stead to Palma. 
 
 . From the time of the fifteenth century, the commercial 
 establishments of the Genoese at Majorca were so consider- 
 able, as to have an Exchange to themselves. They then 
 occupied the quarter of the city, now inhabited by the 
 descendants of the Jews, who are branded with the ridicu- 
 lous appellation of (Chonettes) owls. 
 
 . They preserve in the archives of the university of Palma, 
 some very ancient sumptuary laws, which sufficiently prove 
 the progress of luxury, and, at the same time, attest the 
 opulent state of the inhabitants. These laws settled the 
 weight of the chains of gold, which, as at the present time, 
 made a part of the costume of the women. 
 
 Majorca, from its particularly advantageous situation, was 
 ope of the principal marts for the rich and valuable com- 
 modities of lndia > which were brought by sea from Dami- 
 etto, where they were conveyed by the caravans which 
 crossed the deserts. The productions of Asia and of Africa 
 accumulated in the warehouses of Palma, from whence 
 they passed into Spain, France, and Italy. Thus Majorca 
 was one of the chief markets of Europe ; navigation and 
 the arts were yet in their infancy ; and the indolence of 
 the neighbouring countries payed tribute to the activity of 
 the Majorcans. At length the rays of light, from learning 
 and experience began to spread over the continent ; useful 
 discoveries were made, and the encouragements of kings 
 and sovereign princes, excited emulation. Men of genius, 
 and intrepid seamen, conceived that there might be a pos- 
 sibility of reaching the Indies by a way not yet discovered, 
 and of bringing hack directly from thence those productions 
 •which they had been accustomed to obtain at second hand 
 from Majorca. This island thus became only a province 
 of Spain, and naturally lost, almost entirely, the conse-
 
 COMMERCIAL FLUCTUATIONS. ]2l 
 
 quenee of which it was possessed, at the time when it was 
 a separate and independant state. Their maritime and 
 commercial laws, their customs and duties, all were entirely 
 calculated for the individual interest of the island. But 
 an entire change took place, and Majorca was sub- 
 jected to the same laws as the other provinces of the king* 
 clom, of which the island was now a part. Palma, at the 
 same time, was no longer the residence of a monarch> 
 whose presence and court attracted thither a number of 
 Strangers; which circumstance encreased the wealth of the 
 island, and encouraged the emulation of the islanders., not 
 only in the .cultivation of the lands, but also in the arts, 
 commerce, and navigation. A more numerous popula- 
 tion supplied labourers for agriculture, seamen for com- 
 merce, and soldiers for the defence of their country. The 
 nobility studied the use of arms, and the art of navigation. 
 In the records of Palma may be seen proofs, that there was 
 not a family, of the latter class, which did not at least fur- 
 nish an armed galley at their own expence. The marine 
 military force was sufficiently strong to give protection to 
 the active industry of ther merchants. The Barbarians, 
 who people the shores of Africa, as far as the straits of 
 Gibraltar, now exact ftom Spain a very humiliating tri- 
 bute. Several of the same cantons, at that time, payed 
 tribute to the Mnjorcans. The prosperity of the island, 
 which is now only a small part of those states which com- 
 pose the monarchy of Spain, insensibly languishes. The 
 wars of the Arragonian kings first struck at their prosperity, 
 by draining the island of men and money. Majorca, like 
 the other provinces, being obliged to furnish its proportion. 
 The expulsion of the Moors from the states of Spain was 
 fatal to the prosperity of the. kingdom. This measure, 
 dictated by an absurd and perhaps ill-judged zeal for 
 religion, by considerably diminishing the population, 
 took from agriculture, from the arts, commerce and navi- 
 gation, a great number of men, who carried their activity 
 and industry among people who knew their value, and who 
 offered them the comforts of a home, with the encourage- 
 ment their labours deserved, free from the difficulties they 
 were subject to in their native island. Majorca thus pro- 
 bably lost more than any other part of Spain by this emi- 
 gration. .How much -has France had to regret the revoca- 
 tion of the edict, which in proscribing the protestants, 
 enriched with our industry, kept away people who knew 
 so well how to profit by advantages.' 
 
 ST. SA.UVEUR.] O.
 
 1£2 ST. SAUVEVR°S TRAVEL!. 
 
 The discovery of the Cape of Good Hope made a change 
 in the course from India ; Majorca ceased to be the mart, 
 and was itself soon reduced to receive commodities at se- 
 cond and third hand. The progress of navigation in neigh- 
 bouring countries at length entirely deprived the island of 
 those advantages it might derive from the activity of its 
 navy. Such have been the causes of the decline of the 
 commerce of the island of Majorca. 
 
 The commercial connections of the inhabitants of the 
 Balearics do not extend at present beyond the shores of 
 Spain, Africa, and France, in the Mediterranean. The 
 Majorcan articles of exportation are oils, wines, brandies, 
 almonds, oranges and lemons, beans, capers, and a small 
 quantity of cheese. 
 
 The amount of the oil exported, is valued at about eleven 
 millions of French livres. These oils are almost entirely 
 conveyed to Spain and Marseilles in Majorcan vessels ; a 
 very small quantity is also exported to the North, to Eng- 
 land, Hollaiid, &c. but the English and Dutch come hither 
 for it themselves. 
 
 The amount of the wines is valued at near six hundred 
 and eighty -five thousand and seventy livres; most of which is 
 exported in ships, which make it a ^xrt of the stores for their 
 own use : a small part is conveyed to the continent of 
 Spain, and some inconsiderable quantity to America. 
 
 The brandies are exported under the Majorcan flag to 
 Barcelona, Malaga, and Cadiz, from whence they go to 
 America. The English, Dutch, the Danes, ik-c. also come 
 sometimes to Majorca for theie brandies. The amount of 
 the exportations of this commodity is about one hundred 
 and seventy-seven thousand livres. 
 
 There are 14,000 milliers, or thousand weight, of oranges 
 and lemons exported under the Majorcan flag to the south- 
 ern provinces of France ; the amount of the value exceeds 
 two hundred thousand livres. 
 
 The amount of the cheese which is exported to Barce- 
 lona, and some other ports of Spam, is at most from thirty- 
 five to forty thousand livres. 
 
 Almost the whole exportation of almonds goes to Mar- 
 seilles: this article may amount to sixty thousand livres. 
 
 Most of the capers are also taken to Marseilles, and the 
 a&ount may be troin six to seven thousand livres. 
 
 Of beans, which is the only sort of pulse exported to 
 Spain, the quantity may be valued at about forty thousand 
 livres.
 
 BALANCE OF TRADE. 123 
 
 Twelve millions, two hundred and two thousand, five 
 hundred and ninety livres, is the total amount or' the phy- 
 sical productions of the island of Majorca, which are ar- 
 ticles of exportation, to which the industry of the islanders 
 adds but very little. 
 
 The Majorcans receive in exchange for their physical 
 productions, corn, rice, salt provisions, tobacco, sugar, 
 coffee, woollen and other cloths of different qualities, 
 manufactured silks, and merceries of every description, 
 drugs, gun-powder, planks, and wood for building, iron 
 and other articles for the use of their shipping. 
 
 The grain imported from Africa amounts to the sum of 
 Beven hundred thousand livres- 
 
 The rice, salt provisions, sugar, and coffee, which they 
 have almost entirely from France, amount to about six 
 hundred thousand livres. 
 
 The cloth of different sorts, silks, and mercery, which 
 are supplied mostly from the southern parts of France, are 
 valued at nine hundred and seventy-seven thousand, nine 
 hundred and fourteen livres. 
 
 The drugs, gun-powder, tobacco, wood for building, 
 iron, arms, and materials for the navy, Sic. which are al- 
 most all imported from Spain, amount to the sum of seven 
 hundred and seventeen thousand, five hundred and seventy- 
 eight livres. — 
 
 The sum total of the importations in the island of Ma- 
 jorca, is nearly two millions, nine hundred and ninety-five 
 thousand, four hundred and ninety-two livres. 
 
 The balance in favour of the Majorcans is, according to 
 these calculations, nine million, two hundred and seven 
 thousand, and ninety-eight livres, or 38,36$/. 8s. Qd. sterling. 
 
 It is well known, that the wealth of a commercial people 
 depends on the value of their local productions, and those 
 which their industry furnishes t,o other nations, in proporr 
 tion to the merchandize which they receive ; it is- thus that 
 the balance is settled, and lhat one may judge how far a 
 nation ought to extend its commercial connections in im- 
 portation as well as exportation. If commerce be the source 
 of wealth, it is also proved, that it contributes to the 
 decadence of a nation, from the time when it becomes, too 
 much'extended ; it then receives much more than it can 
 give in exchange for its own produce. 
 
 This fact is but too sensibly experienced by the Major- 
 cans: poor in the natural produce of the island^ and having 
 neither works nor manufactures which ciight supply the
 
 124 ST. sauveur's travels. 
 
 deficiency. They export very few articles of their own 
 growth to those nations, from whom they receive not only 
 all that belongs to the convenience and enjoyment of life, 
 but even most of those articles which are necessary to their 
 existence. 
 
 The Minorcans export a small quantity of cheese, which 
 is sold in Italy ; the amount does not exceed twenty thou- 
 sand francs, of French money. They obtain from the 
 fleeces of theirflocks a surplus of wool, whieh may be valued, 
 at most, at the sum of thirty thousand livres. The honey, 
 wax, and salt, produce about ten million livres above the 
 consumption of the islanders. The exportation of wine, 
 added to what is consumed in the island by the troops and 
 foreigners, which is always paid for in ready money, 
 amounts to about three hundred and fifty thousand livres. 
 The islanders thus acquire, from the quantity they send 
 abroad, only the sum of four hundred and ten thousand 
 livres. 
 
 They import the articles of wheat, oxen, sheep, oil, 
 brandy, tobacco, rice, sugar, coffee, and spices ; woollen 
 and other cloths, iron, planks, cordage, guu-powder, tar, 
 &c. The amount of the importations is evidently greatly 
 superior to that of exportation ; the balance, therefore, 
 cannot be in favour of the Minorcans. 
 
 The consumption of the English, at the time when they 
 were in possession of Minorca, had given to the commo- 
 dities of this island an extraordinary value, which put into 
 circulation a very considerable sum,- to which were added 
 the profits the islanders derived from the sale of those 
 articles which came from abroad. The economy of the 
 Spaniards in their manner of living has put a stop to these 
 advantages. 
 
 The Minorcans might nevertheless ameliorate their situa- 
 tion, by industry and labour. However infertile the island 
 may be, there are many articles which the cultivation of 
 the soil might grow to advantage. 
 
 Cotton succeeds very well, and it world be easy to in- 
 crease the produce of this plant, so as to make it an article 
 of exportation to a considerable amount. The Maltese ex- 
 port from their island as much as fifteen thousand quintals, 
 besides what is used in the country. The soil of the island 
 of Malta is assuredly not more fruitful than that of Mmoica, 
 but the Maltese have an activity which does not belong to 
 the Minorcans. Why do they not cultivate with care and 
 aoentipn a number of olive trees, whose fruit would su
 
 ARTICLES OF COMMERCE. 125 
 
 well recompence the labours of the coon try man. The 
 Minorcans have their oil from Majorca; they might pro- 
 bably be soon saved this expence, and have at the sama 
 time a surplus of their own produce. 
 
 The capers abound in every part of the island, and yet 
 the Minorcans derive no advantage from them beyond 
 their own consumption. How easily might they make of 
 them an article of exportation ? 
 
 Flax and hemp succeed perfectly well : might not the 
 quantity be en creased ? Why do not the Minorcans manu- 
 facture themselves the cloths which they are now obliged to 
 have from abroad ? They might probably carry this branch 
 of industry still farther. 
 
 The cane and reeds, so common in the island of Mi- 
 norca, are or that quality which is so much sought after 
 by the drapers ; and yet the Minorcans neglect to profit by 
 this advantage. 
 
 The slate, which is found in abundance in many parts of 
 the island, also presents a valuable article of speculation. 
 
 The free-stone, of which they have such quantities, might 
 serve for the ballast of their outward-bound vessels, and 
 then be sold abroad for other freight. 
 
 Mastic, aloes, and many other drugs, grow in pure 
 waste, for the Minorcans make no use of them, and yet 
 they might constitute articles of commerce. 
 
 Bees would thrive exceedingly in an island which so 
 abounds in aromatic plants: those of Minorca produce ex- 
 cellent wax, and the honey is in much esteeir/, It would 
 certainH be to the interest of the Minorcans to extend this 
 source of wealth, by encreasing the number of hives. 
 
 The Minorcans might follow the example of the Major- 
 cans, ano derive a profit from the saffron of the island, an 
 article of which they now make but little use. 
 
 Besides their own consumption, these islanders might 
 export a considerable quantity of fruit. Their oranges, 
 lemons, figs, almonds, and pomegranates are of a quality 
 not at all inferior to the same fruits of Majorca. It would 
 be very easy to increase the number of these valuable 
 trees. 
 
 bait might be made, without any trouble, a very interest- 
 ing article of exportation, as the Minorcans have a means 
 of procuring it, which is very easy. In many places on the 
 coast the rocks are flat, and raised a little above the sur- 
 face of the sea; when the wind blows fresh, tbe waves 
 Cover them from one end to the other, so thai in time, the
 
 125 ST. SAUVEUR's TIMYE&S. 
 
 salt eats into the softest parts, and forms a great number of 
 small cavities, separated one from the other bv the parts of 
 the rock which, have resisted its power; these cavities being 
 filled with the sea water, one day's sun-shine is sufficient 
 to dry them up, and form the salt. Women and cu.ldreti 
 are employed in the evening to collect it, and 611 the cavi- 
 ties again with water. 
 
 1 have already mentioned the numerous kinds of fish with 
 which the coast of Minorca abounds ; these, if salted, 
 might make an important article of exportation. 
 
 Navigation, in particular, presents to the Minorcans the 
 means not only to liquidate their debts with foreigners, but 
 another source of certain benefit. The advantages derived 
 from navigation have raised Holland to a degree oi' power, 
 which has placed it in a situation to rival those nation* 
 whose commerce was most extensive. Navigation alone 
 lias maintained the small republic of Ragusa, whose terri- 
 tory is so confined, and almost every where covered 
 with barren rocks. The inhabitants of this little state were 
 like porters or carriers of the commerce of the Medi- 
 terranean. They had deserved the confidence of the 
 merchants of every trading nation, and their ships were 
 not inactive in port. The Minorcans have, more than 
 any other people, the means of successfully imitating the 
 example of these navigators : as they are almost all seamen, 
 the port of Mahon presents every convenience for the 
 building and repairing of ships. Accustomed to live fru- 
 gally, the victualling of these vessels would nut be very 
 expensive: they could then afford to take in freight at a 
 price which would always give them the preference. 
 
 At the time when the island was in the possession of the 
 English, the Minorcan merchants and seamen enriched 
 themselves by the prizes taken by their armed vessels. 
 Government particularly encouraged these cruisers : the 
 warehouses of Minorca were overstocked with merchan- 
 dize of every description, which was exported to great ad- 
 vantage into neutral countries, and smuggled into the ports 
 of the powers which were armed against the English. 
 
 The commerce and navigation of the Minorcans neces* 
 sarily suffered from the existing circumstances at the time 
 when they sailed under the British flag ; their ships were 
 always ready to intercept the merchant vessels of Spain 
 and France, in the Mediterranean ; thus they brought 
 into their country considerable wealth. To enrich thetiH 
 selves, at the expence of the English trade, it would 
 
 6
 
 ON THE IMPROVEMENT OP MINORCA. 1"27 
 
 now be necessary to establish cruisers in distant lati- 
 tudes, as merchant ships near home ale generally well 
 protected by the naval forces. On the other hand, their 
 own merchant ships can scarcely escape the English, 
 cruisers, which are continually on the coasts ^of the,e 
 islands. It is not surprising, therefore, to see the ports of 
 Minorca .full of unarmed vessels, winch are laid up to rot 
 in a state of inactivity. 
 
 The completion of the Lazaretto will restore, or rather fix, 
 the prosperity and trade of the island. The wealth of trre 
 Spanish ships compelled to go thither, to peiform' their 
 quarantine; and the daily arrival of foreign vessels, attract- 
 ed thither from the same motive, will be the means of 
 circulating considerable sums in the island. The naval 
 works will also be another source of riches to the Minor- 
 cans, when peace shall have given liberty and safety to 
 the navigator. When the commerce of different nations 
 shall have filled the Mediterranean with' its flags, the port 
 of Mahon will offer them a shelter against the tempest, and 
 will find them the necessary materials for the purpose of 
 refitting after a voyage. The Mlnorcans will profit by 
 the facility of their situation, and of the excellence of 
 their ports; their industry and activity will acquire a 
 new spring. If the ship-building under the English 
 is a source of wealth to that nation, what may we not 
 hope from this island becoming the focus of naval re- 
 pairs for numerous foreign nations. Perhaps, I repeat 
 what I have already said, that to give,, in some measure, 
 the first spring to that prosperity, it would be necessary for 
 the court of Spain to grant some years of freedom to the 
 port of Mahon. The island of Minorca, poor in local pro- 
 ductions, can only supply manufactures, lor which it is by 
 no means qualified. Jt is by her shipping only that Mi- 
 norca can enrich herself; it is to that point that the activity 
 of the inhabitants should be turned. In giving support and 
 encouragement to these views, Spain would presently re-im- 
 feurse herself for the loss of duties taken off for a time only; 
 the charges of keeping the island of Minorca would be no 
 longer a burthen on the public treasury. Every thing lan- 
 guishes at present; and it is proved, that the duties re- 
 ceived from commerce and navigation are very insufficient 
 for the expenees for the use of the soldiery employed by 
 government. 
 
 The inhabitants of the Phhiusian Isles, content with find- 
 ing enough to satisfy their immediate wsfrts, keep tip but
 
 128 st» satjvkur's travels; 
 
 a small share of commerce with strangers, nor even wikTx 
 their neighbours : it is with difficulty that they can be pre- 
 vailed upon to export even a small quantity of woollen 
 cloth, which is almost entirely consumed by the navy of 
 Spain, and some oil which goes to Majorca; and these 
 trips are only the particular speculations of some captains 
 of vessels. The laws of the country but too much favour 
 the natural indolence of the inhabitants, and their want of 
 inclination for any foreign trade The exportation of corn, 
 oil, and some fruits, are prohibited. These islanders, ac* 
 customed to sow only the quantity of com which is neces- 
 sary for their own consumption, are subject, in those years 
 when the crops are not plentiful, to the want of bread \ and 
 in those seasons that the harvest is abundant, they lose the 
 surplus of their consumption, and, with the greatest in- 
 , difference, see it rot in their store-houses. Would it not be 
 wiser to suffer the exportation of this corn to Majorca, 
 which, in times of scarcity, import it from Africa ? On 
 reflecting on the advantageous situation of the Pithiu- 
 sian islands, between the two continents of Europe and 
 Africa, and considering* the goodness of the soil, watered 
 by an infinite number of excellent springs, the mildness of 
 the climate, the distiibution of the habitations dispersed 
 over the* country, and thus, not forming towns or cities 
 that are too populous, a distribution so favourable to the 
 labours of agriculture ; considering these circumstances, 
 can one conceive the indigent state of the Ivicans? Mature 
 has herself to supply their wants, and does it not seem, at 
 the same time, to reproach their indolence. 
 
 The language of these islanders is nearly the same as 
 that of the Catalonians, from which it differs only in some 
 particular words, and in the pronunciation of many others. 
 A Catalonian is understood perfectly by a Majorcan, a Mi- 
 norcan, and an Ivican. At the epoch of the conquest of 
 this isle by king Jayme the First, a considerable number of 
 Catalonian families came and settled here, and introduced 
 the use of the language of their own country. Muntaner, 
 an historian, cotemporary with the expedition of king 
 Jayme, affirms this fact, and adds, that there remained at 
 Majorca, of the Moors who formerly possessed the island, 
 only a certain number of slaves, employed in the cultiva- 
 tion of the lands, and a few families in easy circumstances, 
 who had embraced Christianity. Benimelis and Dameto, 
 Majorcan writers, derive the dialect of their country from 
 the Limosiu ; but certainly there is not the smallest si mi-;
 
 LANGUAGE OF THE BALEARES 129 
 
 krity between these two dialects. On the contrary, a great 
 resemblance and conformity, and even a perfect sameness, 
 may be observed between the Catalonian language and that 
 which is spoken in the southern provinces ot Fiance; the 
 same turn of expression, the same pronunciation, and 
 almost the same words. The trifling ditFerence which is at 
 present observed between these two languages, proceeds 
 from the habitual connections which consequently existed 
 between tbe Catalonians and the Castilians. They still 
 preserve, in the records of Barcelona, some acts written en- 
 tirely in the language of Languedoc, and other dialects of 
 the southern provinces of France, if there remained any 
 doubt of the similarity and conformity between the two 
 languages, it would be removed on seeing a person from 
 Languedoc arrive, for the first time, in Catalonia. He 
 would be able, without the help of an interpreter, to express 
 his wants ; at the end of eight days he converses fluently, 
 and in less than a month he is a perfect master of the 
 language. Coming from Catalonia to tbe Belearic isles, 
 one is surprised to find any difficulty in making oneself 
 perfectly understood, although we meet with a great num- 
 ber of expressions which are entirely the same as in Cata- 
 lonia and Languedoc. But the language of the inhabitants 
 of the Balearic is now a mixed jargon, composed of the 
 dialects of the several nations which have successively been 
 in possession of these islands. The words of which this 
 language is composed are a sort of monumental records, 
 that may serve to follow the series of the many revolutions 
 which these islanders have experienced. Unless one had 
 been accustomed from infancy to live in a neighbouring 
 country to the Balearic, it is difficult to speak a language, 
 which is that of Languedoc, embarrassed with words which 
 are Syriac, Carthaginian, Greek, Roman, Vandal, -Arabic, 
 Catalonian, and- Castilian. It is not easy to distinguish 
 from which of these dialects the pronunciation which most 
 prevails among these islanders is derived. A foreigner 
 finds it very difficult to acquire, because of the nasal and 
 guttural sounds. For the letter / is often substituted the 
 letter s; and the letters a and e are perpetually confound- 
 ed. For example, they will pronounce sa camie, for camisa, 
 the shirt; es pare for el padre, the father, &c. Never- 
 theless, they give the true pronunciation to the article in 
 other expressions ; they do not say es rey, the king ; es bisbe, 
 the bishop; but el rey, el bisbe. in some villages of Ma- 
 jorca, as at Pollenza, the letter / never loses its sound in the 
 
 ST. SAUVEUR.] R
 
 130 bT. sauveur's travels. 
 
 pronunciation of the article. These defects of language 
 are observed in every country, where a distance of eignt or 
 ten leagues makes a difference in the pronunciation, and 
 the language also varies very materially. A stranger would 
 find himself very much at a loss, on his arrival at Minorca, 
 if the islanders of a certain rank were not acquainted with 
 the Spanish language, and the common people sufficiently 
 so, if not to speak it, at least to understand it. At Minorca 
 we find many persons, particularly among merchants and 
 seamen, who write and speak very well both French and 
 English The length of time that this island was possessed 
 by each of these nations, has made the use of these lan- 
 guages very familiar to the inhabitants. 
 
 As for the lvicans, they differ in their jargon by a 
 more guttural pronunciation, and very few of them under- 
 stand any Spanish. 
 
 I observed with surprise, and some regret, that in these 
 islands, while the men pride themselves on the study and 
 use of the Spanish language, the women obstinately persist 
 in that of their own noisy jargon; even when they knovr 
 the Spanish. One can only impute this ridiculous habit to 
 the extreme vanity of the sex, and not to that diffidence 
 which is always an ornament to beauty. 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 COSTUME OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE BALEARIC! AND 
 FITHIUSES. — ANTIQUITIES OF THESE ISLANDS. 
 
 XN reflecting on the variety of costumes which are still 
 preserved by the inhabitants of the Balearics, I fancied that I 
 discovered, as in their dialects, some interesting vestiges 
 of the many revolutions they have experienced. Without 
 referr.ng to what is said by Diodorus, of the custom of the 
 first inhabitants going naked, let us take them from the 
 time oi' their civilization. Their clothing was then com- 
 posed of the skins of animals; from whence is the epithet of 
 >,;sr>nodkes t which was given them by the poet Lycophron, 
 A« the present time this dress is still to be seen among the 
 Majorcan shepherds. The husbandman, careless about 
 ttioderu fashions, preserves the habit of his ancestors : and
 
 COSTUME OP THE PEOPLE. 1'S'l 
 
 •his costume is a kind of monumental record of a very 
 ancient date. His calotte or cap, his short hair, his loose 
 coat, his large breeches, and his shoes without buckles, 
 recal to the mind the Greeks, who were the first allies of the 
 inhabitants of the Balearics. The sort of short petticoat, 
 which they wear over their breeches, appears to be the 
 sagum of the Romans, in time of peace. 
 
 These islanders have not adopted the use of the red, a 
 net in which the Goths confined their hair. It is rather 
 surprising that this head-dress, which is so universal in 
 Spain, has not gained admittance in these islands, which 
 have mostly been peopled from the time of the conquest of 
 kingJayme by Catalonians, amongst whom the red is still a 
 distinguishing part of the costume. Of the habit of the Goths 
 the islanders have only retained the tunic, which the 
 ancients called stringe, and which they wore over their other 
 garments, in their country employ. nents. 
 
 Their costume has also some resemblance to that of the 
 present Greeks, who are under the dominion of the Turks : 
 pt recals to our remembrance the reign of the Moors in the 
 Balearic's. The islanders differ particularly f'rbui the Greeks 
 in the length of the habit, which they wear much shorter ; 
 and they have not adopted the custom of wearing whis- 
 kers on the upper lip, nor do they wear the turban. 
 
 On festival days the peasant lays aside his usual costume, 
 and appears in the Spanish dress of the time of king Jayme 
 the First. On seeing the black cape, the large plaited ruff, co- 
 vering the shoulders and part of the bre;ist; and the vast hat, 
 turned up on each side, resembling that worn by the ecclesias- 
 tics of the present day, one may almost fancy that we are still 
 in the thirteenth century. We find exactly this costume in the 
 many portraits of that age. The simple inhabitant of the 
 country, in these vestments, the connection of which with 
 the time of his ancestors he is totally unacquainted with, 
 lives happy in the bosom of a numerous family, and knows 
 not the poison of the luxury which corrupts the morals in. 
 cities and towns. 
 
 At Papua, at Mahon, and even at Ivica, there does not 
 remain the smallest vestige of the costumes of the ancients,. 
 The laticlava is no longer kuo&n but from history, though 
 Strabo asserts that it was invented by the inhabitants of the 
 Balearics. Those who inhabit the towns and cities of these 
 isles, prefer the European habit, particularly that of the 
 French, and they are very fond of wearing a military nni^ 
 form, with the exception, however,, of ttie Minorcans. 
 
 B2
 
 15'2 ST. SAUVEUR S TUAVELS. 
 
 The women in the capital, as in the other islands, have the 
 same costume, from the marchioness of the first family to 
 the meanest domestics, which they wear in the house as 
 well as abroad. The head-dress is a kind of nun's double 
 handkerchief. The upper une, whieh covers the head, is 
 longer than the chin, and leaving only the face to be seen, 
 it spreads over the shoulders, and reaches half way down 
 the back. The two corners are crossed in front on the 
 bosom. This head-dress, as simple as becoming, is called 
 rebozillo, and is the part of the costume on which the 
 women set the highest value. These rebozillos are gene- 
 rally of fine muslin, scolloped. Many of them are valuable, 
 from the quantity of needle-work with which they are orna- 
 mented, and the expensive lace with which they are 
 trimmed. The women among the common people some- 
 times wear them made of printed calico, but mere gene- 
 rally of a coarser, muslin, and trimmed with a coloured 
 ribbon. Women for a mourning, habit wear a black 
 rebozillo, for a near relation, and a, white one, trimmed 
 with black ribbon, for a more distant friend. 
 
 The Minorcan women wear over this head dress a second 
 rebozillo, made of coarse red cloth, ornamented with rib- 
 bon, which is generally yellow. This rebozillo is only 
 worn without doors ; it is called the mentete. 
 
 The women of Ivica wear the rebozillo of a yellow 
 colour; it is either of coarse cloth, or printed calico of a 
 very ordinary quality. A stranger who sees, for the first 
 time, the women of these islands, cannot help admiring 
 the beauty of their hair, which falls below the waist, 
 flowing at length, carelessly in the wind. But what is his 
 surprize when he is informed that these beautiful tresses are 
 only artificial i His astonishment increases when he sees 
 the most charming young women carry the ridiculous folly 
 so far as to sacrifice their own beautiful hair, the finest or- 
 nament of nature, to their prejudices in favour of this 
 absurd fashion, and to take it from the head to which it 
 belonged, to wear it as a false tail. What purpose, it may 
 be abked, does this absurdity answer ? It is in vain to try 
 to account for it. The islanders themselves can give no 
 reason for the practice. i\Hien I have attempted to find 
 fault with the head-dress' of their women, they retorted on 
 roe the wigs worn by our ladies, and indeed they seemed to 
 have some reason on their side. In fact, nothing can be 
 more disgusting than the head of one of our elegantes 
 covered with false hair. They endeavour to excuse this
 
 EXTRAORDINARY HEAD-DRESSES. ]<& 
 
 absurdity. by the pretext of convenience; but we are never- 
 theless at liberty to believe that vanity alone gave birth to 
 this fashion. Our French women, 1 hope they will pardon 
 me, were not so wise as the foxes in the fable, who would 
 not attend to the counsel of that fox anions; them, who, 
 baving lost his own tail, advised them to cutoff theirs. 
 
 At ivica it is not unusual in the country to meet women 
 wearing a cow's tail, added to the remains of her own hair. 
 We may reasonably doubt whether this fashion extends be- 
 yond the Pithiuses. The Minorcans always wear a corset 
 of black silk, stiffened with strong whalebone, which con- 
 fines the body tightly, and often prevents the proper growth 
 of the bosom, from which proceeds too many inconve- 
 niencies, and probably this is one of the causes of the pain- 
 ful and fatal accouchements so frequent at Majorca. The 
 sleeves are also worn very narrow, and terminate above the 
 elbow. They are made open in front of the arm, and seem 
 to be only what sempstresses call basted together: but in a 
 mourning habit they are sewed up close; they are orna- 
 mented with several buttons of gold or silver, and some- 
 times of precious stones. This ifttfa part of Majorcan 
 extravagance. These tight sleeves preventing the free 
 circulation of the blood, do not leave the arm room to 
 acquire its natural roundness and beauty. In general, the 
 Majorcan women are narrow chested, and have the arm 
 ill-formed and thin. May this observation of a stranger, in 
 other respects an admirer of their beauties, merit their in- 
 dulgence. The cotset is ornairfented in front with two 
 rows of silver buckles, placed longways, and answering the 
 purpose of our laces, to fasten the dress close. But it is 
 only the wives of tradesmen and mechanics who wear these 
 buckles: the iadies have substituted a stomacher, fastened 
 down the sides with ribbons, or ornamented with very small 
 buttons. The women of a lower class and servants wear a 
 half sleeve of cloth, over the sleeve of the corset. The 
 petticoat is generally black ; but sometimes in the house 
 they wear them of white or printed calico. The black 
 petticoats are ornamented with fringes of silk, cotton, or 
 worsted, and sometimes only with a black ribbon. They 
 are always worn short, to show the lower part of the leg. 
 The Majorcan women pride themselves on always being 
 well dressed about the feet ; their shoes have very high 
 heels. The ornaments worn by rich persons, and those in 
 easy circumstances, consist of a necklace of pearls, which 
 passing under the rebozillo, falls below the stomach : a
 
 1S4 ex. sauvejjr's travels. 
 
 medal or cross of gold is generally attached to it, and 
 sometimes a Maltese cross. They wear round the waist a 
 gold chain, which on one side hangs the length of the pet- 
 ticoat, and is terminated by an ornament of the same pre- 
 cious metal, on the left side, tied with a ribbon, or fastened 
 ■with a small gold chain to the corset; they wear a medal- 
 lion, enclosing the portrait of the father, the husband, or 
 the lover, but more generally the picture of a saint. The 
 IViajorcan women also wear watches, and load their fingers 
 with a number of rings. When they go out, they cover 
 themselves with a long muslin veil, or one of black cloth, if 
 they are in mourning. This they call the mantilla. They 
 always carry in one hand a long chaplet, ornamented with a 
 large gold tassel, at the end of which hangs a cross or 
 medal. 
 
 The Minorcans shew less taste and fancy in their dress. 
 They also wear corsets, and flowered silk petticoats; some 
 of them are even embroidered with gold or silver. They 
 plait them very full on the hips, and make them as stiff as 
 possible. Thus nothing can be more encumbered than a 
 Minorcan lady in a gala dress; when they sit down, they 
 remind me of our old ladies in hoop petticoats. 
 
 The women in the country generally wear under the chin., 
 where the rebozillo is fastened, a huge bow or knot of 
 ribbon, which they call the floque. This ornament is often 
 made of leather. This floque seems to be a part of the 
 thick ruffs formerly worn round the neck by the ancient 
 Spaniards. The women of the peasantry never go out 
 without a large hat, like that worn by the men, but orna- 
 mented with a black velvet ribbon, the ends of which fly in 
 the wind behind the head. They, like the women of the 
 lower class in the towns, have a sort of apron of striped 
 calico, the whole of which is gathered close, and seems 
 only to be a thick plaited ornament down the front of the 
 petticoat. 
 
 At first sight, the rebozillo is the most striking part of the 
 costume of the women of these islands. This head-dress, 
 of which no resemblance is now to be found, except in con- 
 vents of nuns, was worn in France from the time of the Me- 
 rovingians until the time of the reign of Charles the Eighth. 
 It was worn in Spain till the reign of Charles the Fifth. 
 We still see on the mausoleums of Poplet the statues of 
 princesses represented with the rebozillo. Saints of those 
 days were also painted in this costume. The rebozillo 
 seems to have been introduced in these islands by the
 
 BALEAftTC ANTIQUITIES* 135 
 
 Catalonian women who settled here, at the time of 
 the conquest of king Ja\ me the first. Father Mariana re- 
 lates that the Spanish women changed the rebozillo for 
 the mantilla in the reign of Philip the First, in the year 
 1506. 
 
 According to Armstrong, the antiquities of the Balearics 
 mav be divided into three classes. In the first, should be 
 placed those of the most remote periods ; in the second, 
 those belonging to the Romans; and in the third the anti- 
 quities of the Moors. 
 
 In such distribution, this author places in the first class 
 the monuments, which the islanders call the altars of the 
 Gentiles. I saw several of them in the island of Minorca. 
 The description which Armstrong gives of one of these, 
 which is situated two miles to the E.S.E. of Alayor, seems 
 to me to be very exact. 
 
 It is built on an eminence, and surrounded by a wall of 
 large flat stones, perfectly well joined together. This 
 enclosure forms a circular plan of about two hundred yards 
 diameter. In the center is a large heap of rough stones, 
 piled one on another without any cement. They form a 
 cone of about thirty yards diameter, and nearly the same in 
 height. There is a cavity in the base, the entrance of 
 which faces the south, and into which a man may enter by 
 stooping. They have cut around this pyramid a way about 
 three feet wide, by which one may go to the summit, a 
 large flat space, where seven* or eight people may easily 
 stand. From hence may be seen, to the south, a view of 
 the sea, and on every other side an extensive prospect of 
 the country. Within the enclosure, at some distance from 
 the pyramid, are two square stones, one of them placed per- 
 pendicularly, and the other horizontally on the top of the 
 first. The one on the top is sixteen feet long and seven 
 broad, and is twenty inches in thickness. The other seems 
 to be nearly the same size, but it cannot be measured very 
 exactly, because it is partly sunk in the earth. There is no 
 trace of a chissel, and it is thought that there was never 
 any inscription nor other sculpture on this monument. 
 
 These two stones, from their situation and form, seem to 
 have been an altar. The flat stone probably was used for 
 the sacrifices: but as it was very high above the level of 
 the ground, and consequently out of the reach of the 
 priest, there is no doubt but that there must have been steps, 
 by means of which he ascended. This conjecture is founded
 
 IS6 ST. sauveur's travels. 
 
 on the position and shape of the stones which are found at 
 the foot of this altar. 
 
 As for the purpose for which the islanders might have 
 raised these heaps, Diodorus of Sicily tells us that the inha- 
 bitants of the Balearics piled stones on the graves of the 
 dead: and it is thought that they only erected monuments 
 in honour of distinguished persons, and very probably on 
 opening these pyramids there would be found human bones. 
 These heaps of stones present a kind of mute history^ be- 
 fore the invention of writing, which serve to perpetuate the 
 remembrance of their great men, while the songs which 
 are transmitted from father to son may be esteemed as the 
 commentaries. In raising these kind of pyramids, the 
 islanders seem also to have had another purpose in view. 
 Such monuments are always placed on eminences, and so 
 distant from each other, that they may be seen from every 
 part of the country. It is probable that they were at the 
 same time intended for so many watch towers, by means of 
 which they could discover the approaches of an enemy, 
 and from which they might make signals- to put the inha- 
 bitants on their guard, and give them time to join, and meet 
 the foe, or to hide themselves in the caves of the rocks. 
 These pyramids were also called by the islanders "atba- 
 lais ;" a name totally inapplicable, if they were not used as 
 watch towers. 
 
 M. Cambry, in his work on the Celtic monuments, in the 
 Etymological Vocabulary, gives the following explanation 
 of the word atalaya : — "Atalaya, the name of the altars 
 or stone burial places of the Balearics, in the form of the 
 nipple of a woman's breast. Of the Spanish atalaya, 
 which signifies, 1st, Tower or turret of observation ; 2dly, 
 Sentinel placed in the atalaya, from whence atnlays, to 
 keep watch. These words appear to be derived from the 
 Cc-lto-Gaulic. Adail, edilicc from a augmentation, and tal, 
 elevated, and, from the Spanish termination ay a, which 
 answers to the French termination aille, in antiquaille. Thus 
 the atalaya of the Balearics is the agec specula to rum, or 
 field of sentinels in the Bible ; the menticulus of the 
 Moabites, which Ensebius called the watch tower of the 
 country, and which St. Jerome has translated a high place. 
 The atalaya answers, therefore to the word, as well as to the 
 thing, with the altare of the Latins, Festus.says, "AUaria ab 
 altidunine dicta sunt, quod antique dus sttperis in ecdejiciis, 
 a Una eialtatis sacre J'ackbant," which entirely explaius
 
 ALTARS AND PYRAMIDS. 137 
 
 the atalayas, and confirms the etymology. From the Celtic 
 tal, elevated, comes the French taille, hauteur; the Spanish 
 tallo, tailla, talludo, of grand size ; talle, tige, and the 
 Latin tallere, elevated, raised." 
 
 If we consider the situation of this isle, and the many 
 nations to which it has been subjected at different times, 
 we must be convinced the inhabitants must have lived in a 
 state of continual alarm. It was therefore very natural for 
 a people thus exposed, to contrive an expedient which 
 would serve at once to gain time, to repulse the enemy, or 
 to shelter themselves from Injury. 
 
 The way made round these pyramids to ascend to the 
 summit, and the cavity which might serve as a retreat to 
 those appointed as watchmen, leave no doubt that these 
 monuments were raised as much for the protection of the 
 islanders, as to honour the memory of their dead. 
 
 The situation of the altars near these pyramids naturally 
 explains itself. It appears plain that the priests, whose 
 duty it was to appease the wrath of the Gods, or invoke 
 their favour by their prayers and sacrifices, placed them on 
 the spot from whence the danger was first discovered : 
 respect for religion caused them to surround these altars 
 with a wall, to protect them from the approach of either 
 men or beasts. 
 
 The simplicity of these altars is a proof of their anti- 
 quity. In the first ages of the world, all the ceremonies of 
 religion were comprised in offering sacrifices to the Gods. 
 The altars were only made of earth and some stones placed 
 on an eminence. The Celtic druids multiplied these altars 
 wherever they went; and numbers of them are still to be 
 seen on the mountains of Scotland, in Ireland, and many 
 other places. 
 
 The construction of pyramids built of rough stones of 
 different shapes and sizes, placed one on another, as if by 
 chance, and without any cement to join them together, are 
 manifestly cyelopian. 
 
 I remarked in some places of the island of Majorca, the 
 ruins of walls composed of enormous stones placed one on 
 another, without cement. The aqueduct of Ternelle, at 
 Pollenza, also seems to be of 4 construction anterior to 
 that of the Romans. 
 
 Numberless medals have been found in the Balearics; 
 and, according to Vargas, among such as have been dis- 
 covered in the island of Majorca, are ^distinguished those 
 
 ST. SAUVfiJJR.] s 
 
 « 
 
 *
 
 1.38 ST. SAUVEUll's TRAVELS. 
 
 of Metellus, which are mentioned by Fulvius-Urseinns, 
 Vaillant, and others. Dom Thomas-Andre de Gusseme 
 mentions, that, according to Goltzius, a medal was struck 
 in commemoration of the conquest of the Balearics, in the 
 year of Home 630, by the consul Quintus Cecilius Metellus, 
 surnamed the Balearian. On the principal side is aQ, and 
 near it a Jupiter's head crowned with laurel: on the reverse 
 is a Victory crowning a trophy, with this inscription round 
 it, " Q. Metellus Balearic." This medal, which being con- 
 sulary, should have been struck at Rome, where the family 
 of Cecilia resided, seems to be the same as that mentioned 
 by Vargas. The medal of Canopus is very scarce ; but 
 Iodic of Augustus, with the palm, are to be seen ; some 
 ofCrispus, some of the consulages M. Balbus, Hostilius, 
 Sac'ernaj and Dectus, with the countersign of Majorca, little 
 known and very scarce. Some of Gordian, the African ; 
 same of Domitia and of Pulcheria ; and about five hundred 
 of gold and silver have been found at Santagni, forming a 
 collection from the time of Galba to that of the change of 
 the empire. There have also been found several medals with 
 unknown letters, and which are supposed to belong to the 
 time of the Celtes. 
 
 in Minorca have been found medals of the Phoenicians, 
 the Carthaginians, some of the kings of Macedon, of 
 Philip, the father of Alexander the Great, some of Alex- 
 ander, and of Lysimachos. Some Celtiberittn, that is to 
 say, belonging to the cities of Spain, situated for the most 
 part in Celtiberia, and whose unknown character makes any 
 explanation very difficult; some belonging to the cities of 
 (i)vvc\t t as Athens, Kphesus, Samoa, and others; some of 
 lysines, Marseilles; some belonging to the municipalities 
 and Spanish colonies under the dominion of the Romans: 
 in short, some of all the emperors, empresses, Caesars and 
 tv:..nts, who at different periods governed the empire of 
 Home, either a part or the whole, from the time of its be- 
 ginning until the. sixth century of the christian eera. Seve- 
 ral of the imperial medals, and those of the colonies had 
 counter-marks, as D. I). P. 1). and others. 
 
 Don Pedre Alonse O'Crouley, in his Castilian translation 
 bf the Essays of Addison on Medals, p. 2 Id, places 
 ninong those unexplained a I^itin medal of Minorca in the 
 following lermfe, translated from the Spanish : * Minorca 
 on a medal not understood, a head which might be sup- 
 posed to be that of Neptune; a man on a horse, with a 
 ao'-yi: of laurel. In the extrgue.. Minor . . . . . a little ef-
 
 CURIOUS MEDALS. ISg 
 
 faced." Tt seems to belong to the island of Minorca, which 
 is called insula minor, or Balearis minor, or simply minor, 
 in an inscription. This medal is of bronze. 
 
 It is astonishing, that there has never since been found 
 in Minorca any one of the same kind. It seems to belong 
 to the island, and probably was struck there, according to 
 the custom of the ancients. The head of Neptune might 
 characterize the first inhabitants of Minorca, who distin- 
 guished themselves by their cruises at sea, from the time 
 of the Romans : but as for the man on horseback, on the re- 
 verse, we find nothing in the ancient writers to support the 
 conjecture of an affinity with the same inhabitants. On 
 the contrary, it is well known that they always fought ou 
 foot. Their principal weapon, the sling, was not at all 
 proper to be used by a horseman. There is no author that 
 makes any mention of their horses. 
 
 Among this quantity of medals, there are many of gold 
 and of silver j but the most of them are bronze of different 
 
 sorts. <£*$%& H*. 
 
 They account for such an extraordinary number of me- 
 dals, by the favourable situation of the island for the pas- 
 sage of the east with the west, and of Spain with Italy and 
 Africa. As another cause of this quantity of medals, they 
 mention the arrival of several Spanish families, who, at 
 the beginning of the fifth century, driven by the Suevi, the 
 Vandals, and other barbarians, sought an asylum in the 
 island of Minorca. The bishop, St. Severus, who at that 
 epoch filled the see of Minorca, mentions this event in one 
 of his letters. 
 
 They still continue to find in this island medals, which 
 are almost all of the Roman emperors and empresses; some 
 of them are rather scarce, such as those of Galba, Clodius 
 Albinus, the young Gordian, the African ; Quintillius, Au- 
 relian, and Severina his wife; Helena, the wife of Con- 
 srantius Chlorus ; Elia Flacilla, the first wife of the great 
 Theodosius, &c. 8cc. Medals of Rome and Constantinople, 
 of the time of Constantine the Great, are also very com- 
 mon. 
 
 As for the medals of the time of the Arab*, which were 
 found in the Balearics, they were almost all of silver ; many 
 of them have been melted down, and it does not seem that 
 any of them have been explained. 
 
 There was also found at Minorca a gothic medal, struck, 
 according to all appearance, at the end of the thirteenth 
 century ; it is of small bronze ; on one side, in a circle, is a 
 ■ s 3
 
 140 st. sauveur's travels. 
 
 head turned to the left, wearing an open crown with flower- 
 ed work, and round it the inscription, Alphonsus rex. The 
 reverse side presents an escutcheon, with the bars of Arva- 
 gon, and the inscription, Minoriearum. We meet with 
 other medals, where the head shews the full face. No nu- 
 mismatic author has mentioned these medals. The most 
 probable opinion is, that they were struck by the order of 
 Alphonso the Third, king of Arragon, in memory of the 
 conquest of the island of Minorca, which was taken from 
 the Moors in 1286. 
 
 On the side of the island of Majorca, near Pollcnza, in a 
 place which is still called the colony, there have been found 
 some remains of antique sculpture; among these is to be 
 distinguished ahead in tolerable preservation,, which is sup- 
 posed to belong to a statue of Me tell us. 
 
 Among the statues of bronze I saw a small Hercu- 
 les ; a leg and a finger of extraordinary size, finished 
 with a great deal of care ; a figure of a man bathing; and a 
 small bull. I was shewn also several cinerary and lachry- 
 matory urns, with some sepulchral lamps, all ot them of 
 earth. ' ^B 
 
 They have also discovered in the island of Minorca, seve- 
 ral small statues in bronze, representing the Egyptian, 
 Greek, and Roman divinities, such as Diana, Cupid, For- 
 tuna, Isis, Apis, Osiris, &c. but none of them are of verv 
 fine workmanship. The statues shew that the worship of 
 these divinities was established in the island of Minorca. 
 
 Almost the whole of the literary curiosities have been 
 taken away by the different nations, which have alternately 
 possessed the island of Minorca during the last century ; it 
 is principally in the collections at London and Madrid that 
 the most curious relics of the ancient history of the Ba- 
 learics are to be met with. 
 
 At Minorca there have been found a great quantity of 
 vases, sepulchral lamps, and cinerary and lachrymatory 
 urns, all of a red earth. We know from history, that the 
 Roman's were not the only people who had the custom of 
 inclosing the ashes of the dead in urns. It was also estab- 
 lished among the Carthaginians and Celts. The whole of 
 these vases differ not the one from the other neither in 
 form nor materials. It is difficult to distinguish whose 
 ashes these urns enclose; some of them bear Inscription*, 
 -in Roman characters, which decide the question as far as 
 relates to them. Vargas, in his description of the island of 
 Majorca, has two Roman inscriptions mentioned by M. 

 
 ROMAN INSCRIPTIONS. 141 
 
 Serra, of Majorca, in a dissertaiion on the antiquities of 
 that island, in the originals of these two inscriptions seve- 
 ral letters were entirety effaced, and spaces left, which M. 
 Serra thought he was able to fill up. The authenticity of 
 these two inscriptions is not proved. One may doubt also, 
 that they were found in the island of Majorca. It is from 
 this uncertainty that I have omitted giving them a place in 
 this work. 
 
 Several Roman inscriptions have been also discovered in 
 the island of Minorca, but most of them are so much ef- 
 faced that it is impossible to read a single word. 
 
 in one of these inscriptions only the first line can be 
 tinguished : 
 
 Q. CORNELIO... 
 
 It is a reasonable conjecture, that the rest of the inscrip- 
 tion express the gratitude of the islanders for the services 
 rendered them by this Roman. 
 
 Another, in better preservation, is consecrated to the 
 memory of Lucius Fabius : 
 
 L. FABIO. L F. 
 
 Q VIR 
 
 AED. II VIR. Ill 
 
 FLAMINI. DIVOR 
 
 AUG. R.P.MAG 
 
 OB. MULTA. EIUS 
 
 MERITA 
 
 This inscription is engraven on a grave-stone, which is 
 fixed into the wall of a house at Mahon. 
 
 According to Titus Livius, there was a city in the island 
 of Minorca, at the epoch of the punic war. 
 
 Pliny the elder, who wrote towards the end of the first 
 century of Jesus Christ, speaks of three cities which were 
 then in existence in the island of Minorca, and which were 
 called Magon, Jamnon, and Sanicera ; and, according to 
 St. Severus, bishop of Minorcaj the two first were founded 
 by the Carthaginians. 
 
 Several modern writers have followed the opinion of 
 bishop St. Severus ; others insist that one might with equal 
 justice give their foundation to the early Phoenician^, that 
 they might serve them for ports in the voyages they were 
 constantly making to Spain. To this day there have never 
 ^een found any ancient medals of these cities in characters^
 
 14£ ST. sauveur's tkayels. 
 
 either Phoenician or Carthaginian, which could assist to 
 decide the question. 
 
 Armstrong speaks of another city under the name of La- 
 bon, of which no vestige* remain to point out the place 
 where it had existed. According to that author, one might 
 suspect that the city was the same as the present Alayor ; the 
 modern name seems to assist the conjecture ; the consonants 
 b and v are often confounded in pronunciation by most of 
 the people of the South. Instead of Labon, it should be 
 pronounced Lavon, which might have in the course of 
 time been pronounced Laion, then Laior, and at length 
 Alaior. This etymology may seem ingenious, but it docs 
 not account for the silence of ancient writers on the exist- 
 ence of Labon. 
 
 Neither does there remain any traces of the place where 
 Sanicera, a city mentioned by Pliny, was situated. It is 
 conjectured that it was built on the shore of the port For- 
 nels ; but no discovery has been made to support this 
 opinion. 
 
 It is certain that the Minorcans were in the pay of the 
 Carthaginians, and signalized themselves in the wars which 
 they had to sustain ; it is therefore the more surprising, that 
 in the number of Carthaginian medals which are found in 
 the island of Minorca, there are none which were struck at 
 the epoch of the foundation of the three cities, whose 
 names ancient writers have transmitted to us. Jt is, how- 
 ever, not impossible that such medals may yet be found in 
 some future researches. It is not long since Phoenician, 
 Celtiberian, and Roman medals, were found in Spain, of 
 which there was no prior knowledge. 
 
 As for the antiquities belonging to the time of thp Moors, 
 there are still to be seen at Majorca some ruins of buildings 
 which are in tolerable preservation. The country house 
 belonging to an individual at Eufabia, was formerly, ac- 
 cording to general opinion, a pleasure house of a Moorish 
 prince, who reigned over part of ihe island ol Majorca. In 
 fact, the ancient part of this habitation has all the charac- 
 ters of the construction and ta>te of the Arabs, both in the 
 architecture and ornamental parts. 
 
 Over the gate of the convent of St. Marguerite, may he 
 seen a stone bearing an inscription, the characters of which 
 are Arabic ; but they are so much effaced that it cannot be 
 read. 
 
 The monks of La Merci preserve a vase which tbey say
 
 HISTORY OF THE ISLANDS. 143 
 
 belonged to the time of the Moors ; it is a sort of earthen 
 ware. 
 
 At Minorca are the ruins of a Moorish castle, on Mount 
 Agatha. Over the gate of one of the towers is an inscrip- 
 tion in the Arabic language, but there remains only some 
 almost effaced traces. 
 
 On an arch which is at the east extremity of the parish 
 of Mahon, is to be seen the following inscription in Gothic 
 letters: 
 
 XVI FEBROARII 
 
 ANNO. DNI. MCCLXXXVf. 
 
 PO. PRESA. LA. YEA. DE. MENORCA. 
 
 R. N. A. M. 
 
 NOS. BON REY. D' ARRAGO. 
 
 This inscription, which I have copied in more intelligible 
 characters, refers to the conquest of the island, on the lbth 
 of February, 1286, by Alphonso, king of Arragon. It set- 
 tles to a certainty the epoch of that conquest. 
 
 Near the centre of the city of Mahon are the remains of 
 a gate, which is manifestly Arabic ; it serves as an entrance 
 to a street called the Old Ravalle. 
 
 There is no doubt but that the Moors, during the time 
 of their dominion in the Balearics, built a number of 
 mosques and other edifices which have been destroyed by 
 time, and probably more by the fanaticism of religion, at 
 the epoch when Christianity was established in the island. 
 The custom of the Moors of using stones of an enormous 
 size iu the construction of their buildings, which were 
 placed one on another, without regularity, and almost 
 such as they found them on the earth, or as, they dug them 
 out of the quarries, strengthens the opinion that they were 
 the authors of most of the athalaias, or watch-towers, which 
 are found in the island of Minorca. 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH Of THE BALEARICS ANP PITHIUSES. 
 
 Before X HE most ancient names by which the Balearics 
 
 Cjinst. anc j pi t hiuses were known, all of a Phoenician or 
 
 Greek origin, leaves no doubt but these people were
 
 144 
 
 Before 
 Christ. 
 
 ST. SAUVEURS TRAVELS!. 
 
 C* 
 
 663. 
 
 406 
 
 276. 
 
 250. 
 
 the first tliat settled there. This opinion is con- 
 firmed by Strabo. According to this author, the Boeo- 
 tians and the Rhodians, a short time after the famous 
 siege of Troy, came and established colonies in the 
 Balearics. 
 
 The Carthaginians, masters of the Pithiuses, at- 
 tempted to invade the Balearics, but they were not 
 able to stand against a shower of stones hurled with 
 astonishing celerity by the islanders whose principal 
 weapon was the sling. 
 
 They renewed the enterprize, and were not more 
 fortunate in a second expedition, which was from 
 the ports of Sicily. 
 
 Himilcon and Han no, Carthaginian generals, 
 in going from Carthage to Spain, arrived at the Ba- 
 learics ; they did not attempt to land by force of 
 arms, but presented themselves % as friends : subtil in 
 their conduct ; the mildness of their manners con- 
 ciliated the minds of the inhabitants, who seemed to 
 be untameable, yet they submitted without resistance. 
 to a yoke thus presented with demonstrations of 
 friendship. They saw with satisfaction the settle- 
 ments which their new guests busied themselves in 
 forming. The Carthaginians laid the foundations of 
 two cities in the island or Minorca, to which they 
 gave the names of their most famous generals. — 
 Magon built Mahon, and Hanno founded Jamnon, 
 or Jama. 
 
 The natives of these islands took a part under the 
 banners of the Carthaginians, and five hundred re- 
 nonwed slingers followed them for the first time, 
 when they went to Sicily, to punish the Agrigen- 
 tines for their treachery ; they continued their ser- 
 vices in the army which marched against Denys, 
 the tyrant of Syracuse. In this second expedition, 
 these islands furnished a new reinforcement of three 
 hundred slingers. These troops signalized them- 
 selves, and had the greatest share in the success of 
 the Carthaginians. Hanno, in the entire conquest 
 of Sicily, received succours from the Balearics, which 
 determined the victory in his favour. 
 
 These islanders served with the same zeal in the 
 expedition of the Carthaginians against Pyrrhus, 
 whom they compelled to abandon Sicily. 
 
 Conquerors of the Romans, the Carthaginians re- 

 
 CONQUESTS BY THE ROMAN'S. 145 
 
 flefore turned in triumph to Majorca, puffed up with their 
 Christ, victories, they behaved with arrogance, and con- 
 ducted themselves in such a manner as to cause the 
 inhabitants to revolt, take up arms and drive them 
 out of the island. Hamilcar, by his mildness 
 calmed the resentment of the islanders, and they 
 renewed their connection with the Carthaginians. 
 Three hundred Majorcans fought at the famous bat- 
 tle against Consul C. Luctacius; a battle which, 
 made the Romans masters of Sicily, and terminated 
 the first Punic war. 
 
 Hannibal commenced the second. At the siege 
 of Sagontia, this general reckoned in his troops 
 eleven hundred and fifty slingers, from among the 
 inhabitants of the Baleares. These islanders were 
 in his service when he carried his forces into the 
 heart of Italy, and had always a distinguished share 
 in his victories. 
 814 The Romans having passed into the continent of 
 Spain, Cneus Scipio, master of the sea, failed in an 
 cnterprize against Ivica. He was more fortunate 
 at Majorca, whose inhabitants received him, join- 
 ed their forces to his troops, and fought nnder his 
 banners against the Carthaginians, who had the 
 Minorcans on their side, and had considerable suc- 
 cours from them, which they payed for, as they had 
 done before, by giving them women and wine, which 
 formed the predominant passions of these islanders. 
 
 The Carthaginians driven from the peninsula, 
 the Majorcans recovered their former liberty ; but 
 they only made use of it to give themselves up to 
 piracy. Their excesses attracted the attention of 
 the Romans ; the consul Quintus Cecilius Metellus 
 set out with a fleet to put a stop to their depreda- 
 tions. 
 
 This general, on his appearance before Majorca, 
 had taken the precaution of covering the outside of 
 his vessels with leather; this sort of 'barricado dead- 
 ened the force of the stones which were hurled by 
 the slingers, and made them of no effect. Quintus 
 Cecilius Metellus conquered the whole of the island, 
 which obtained him the honours of victory, and the 
 surname of Balearicus. Before his ceparture from 
 Majorca he founded the cities of Palma and Pol- 
 lenza, giving them the title of colonies. This gene* 
 
 ST. SAUVEUR-] T
 
 140 ST. sauveur's travels. 
 
 ral added to the two thousand Romans which he left 
 on the island, three thousand others, which he sent 
 for from the continent. 
 After The islander* continued faithfully attached to the 
 Uiriht. republic, and their slingers served in its armies all 
 the time that they enjoyed the blessings of peace. 
 At the time when the republic was the prey of 
 internal divisions, and was distracted by the civil 
 wars, the Majorcans refused to take part with Ser- 
 torious, who came to invade Ivica, and joined the 
 party of Cneus Pompey, the son of Pompey the 
 Great, who defended the senate. 
 
 Majorca shared the fate of the Other provinces of 
 the republic subjected by Csesar, and remained un- 
 der the government of the successors of that con- 
 queror. The famous deputation sent to Rome by 
 the inhabitants of the Balearics, to implore the suc- 
 cour of some Roman legions against an extraor- 
 dinary number of rabbits which made devastation 
 among the wheat in the little island of Conejera, 
 was in the reign of Augustus. 
 
 These islands, always under the dominion of Rome, 
 made part of citerior Spain, and were dependant on 
 the jurisdiction of Tarragon until the end of the 
 reign of Constantine. 
 
 From the time of this emperor, until the death of 
 Theodosius the Great, these isles had a particular 
 government, the principal seat of which was at Ma- 
 jorca. 
 427 The division of the empire ; the imbecility of 
 Honorius; and the ambition of Saint-Hilicon, open- 
 ed the gates of Spain to Gunderic, king of the Van- 
 dals, and made these islands an easy conquest. 
 
 The Africans, ever eager for conquest, having 
 vanquished the continent of Spain, attempted seve- 
 ral times to make themselves masters of the Balearic*; 
 and, after failing in many entei prizes, at length 
 succeeded. The possession of these islands consider- 
 ably augmented their marine forces. Their vessels 
 began to infest the seas, and to exercise an insulting 
 superiority. Charlemagne armed his forces against 
 these pirates, and vanquished the barbariaus, de- 
 stroyed their fleets, and took the islands from them. 
 857 Nevertheless, they soon recovered the possession of 
 them ; but were not able to prevent a party of Nor-
 
 ATTACXS of the afrians. 147 
 
 After man adventurers effecting a landing on the island of 
 
 Christ. Majorca, where they committed many depredations. 
 993 The Africans, become the peaceable possessors of 
 the Balearics, fitted out an expedition to Catalonia. 
 Twice they besieged Barcelona, and at length took 
 the place, after a battle, where Count Don Borellos 
 lost his life. 
 
 1102 Count Don Armengol met the sa;me fate in an 
 enterprize which he attempted against Majorca. 
 
 1108 The Africans had arrived at such a degree of 
 power, that they were become absolute masters of 
 the sea. Puffed up with their successes, and depend- 
 ing on their force, they no longer kept any mea- 
 sures, but practised every species of robbery and 
 piracy. Their audacious excesses excited the re- 
 sentment of all the christian powers. The Pisans 
 first armed against them, took from them the island 
 of Ivica, and possessed themselves of part of the 
 island of Majorca. 
 
 1115 The Africans having again possessed themselves 
 of Majorca, Don Raymond Beringer the Third, 
 Count of Barcelona, having assembled some troops, 
 came and attacked the island, of which he subjected 
 the greatest part, after taking the capital. Obliged 
 to return immediately to his own estates, he con- 
 fided the keeping of his recent conquest to some Ge- 
 
 1147 noese, who sold it to the Barbarians; who, again 
 masters of the island, began their depredations 
 
 1178 afresh on the coast of Spain, and particularly in- 
 
 1204 fested Catalonia. Don Raymond, Count of Bar- 
 celona and Prince of Arragon, seconded by the 
 King Don Alphonso the Second, and Don Pedro, 
 his son, took up arms and prepared an expedition 
 against the Balearics, but it was not carried into 
 .effect. 
 1229 The Barbarians continued their piracies, and de- 
 solated the shores of the continent, and at length 
 excited the indignation of Don Jayme, the son of 
 the king of Arragon ; which young prince formed 
 the plan of taking the Balearics from these proud 
 Africans, whose continual depredations alarmed and 
 impoverished the neighbouring nations. Don Jayme 
 assembled an army of sufficient force for the enter- 
 prize which he meditated. He sailed from Salona, a 
 port of Catalonia, to the shores of Majorca, where 
 T3
 
 118 ST. SAUVEURS TRAVELS. 
 
 After be effected the landing of his troops, although "he 
 
 Christ. juet w i t |j s t, on g resistance from the Africans. He 
 soon attacked them in a second battle, in which he 
 lost Don Raymond de Moncade, one of his gene- 
 rals, in whose valour and experience he had great 
 confidence, At length, after a number of actions 
 of less importance, and alter a siege, where the 
 Moors performed prodigies of v*alour, the gates of 
 Majorca were opened, and the rest of the island 
 soon submitted to the force of arms, Don J ay me 
 divided the lands between the noblemen who had 
 accompanied him and assisted his conquest. Some 
 Barbarian families remained in the island, and re- 
 tained in part their possessions. 
 
 J230 Pon J ay me, after having settled the administra- 
 tion of the island of Majorca and established a go- 
 vernor, and after having given his orders for the 
 building of the cathedral church, returned to his 
 estates on the continent. But soon the preparations 
 pf the king of Fez, who threatened the invasion of the 
 island, the loss of which he so much regretted, 
 
 J232 brought Don J ay me again to Majorca; who, when 
 the alarm had subsided, returned to the continent. 
 The conspiracies of a certain number of Moors who 
 remained in the island, the disturbances they had 
 excited, recalled once more Don J ay me to Majorca, 
 This handful of rebels returned to their duty; and 
 the prince sent deputies to Minorca, to engage the in- 
 habitants to place themselves under the jurisdiction 
 of his laws. The Minorcans consented to become 
 tributary to the crown of Arragon. The two islands of 
 the Balearics then passed as a feudal tenure from the 
 crown of Arragon, tinder the dominion of Don 
 
 .244 Pedro, Infant of Portugal, the son of Don Sancho 
 the First, who, at the same time, added the island 
 of Ivica to his possessions. The imbecility of 
 3)on Pedro soon changed the fortune of the isles, 
 Don Jayme was again in possession of his rights; 
 and Majorca had for the fourth and kist time the 
 good fortune to regain its sovereign. This prince 
 consulting £ love of glory, and the indulgence 
 of a perhaps ill-judged devotion, formed the plan 
 
 ^269 of an expedition to the Holy Land. He assembled 
 \i\s troops, and the island of Majorca furnished ftve 
 tfiousaiic} men and three men, pf \yar<
 
 CONQUEST OF MINORCA, 149 
 
 After Don Ja3 r me, when he died, divided his possession* 
 
 Chnst. between n j s i wo SO ns. Don J ay me the Second had 
 
 1^7-> f or jjig s hare the Balearics and Pithiuses, and part of 
 
 the estates on the continent. The will of Don 
 
 Jayme the First, surnamed the Conqueror, gave hiin 
 
 the independant tide of king. 
 
 To appease the resentment of Don Pedro, his 
 eldest son, the prince, consented to acknowledge 
 himself his vassal. Don Pedro having, in the mean 
 time, undertaken an expedition against Africa, 
 touched atMinorca, and endeavoured to gain over the 
 governor of that island, who was feudatory of Don 
 1185 Jayme. This governor pretended to enter into the 
 views of the king of Arragon, and engaged to give 
 up to him the island of which he had the govern- 
 ment ; .but, in the mean time, lie informed the king 
 of Majorca of all the manoeuvres of his brother. 
 Don Pedro swore to be revenged for this perfidy; 
 declared open war against Don Jayme ; raised an 
 army, and prepared to invade his territories; but 
 death surprized- him at the moment when his plans 
 of vengeance were ready be to put in execution. 
 1286 Don Pedro dying, left his crown to Don Al- 
 J 287 phonso, his son ; and at the same time transmitted 
 to him his hatred against Don Jayme. Alp.honso 
 carried into effect the intentions of his father, and 
 invaded the Balearics and Pithiuses. 
 
 The conquest of Minorca cost him more trouble 
 than any of the rest of. the islands. He met with an 
 obstinate resistance on his landing. The Moors aiir 
 ticipated the time of his coming, and waited for biui 
 on the shore. After a bloody battle, he succeeded 
 in driving before him the troops of the almoxariffe, 
 or Moorish governor. They, however, continued 
 fighting as they retreated, and gained the fort on 
 Mount Agatha, where they defended themselves. 
 Alphonso soon besieged it ; but, after having with- 
 out effect performed prodigies of valour, and de? 
 spairing of taking the castle by force, he formed the 
 resolution of reducing it by famine. The garrison 
 were almost without provisions, and could not re- 
 ceive any from Africa ; they therefore offered to 
 capitulate, The conditions were, that those Moor? 
 who could pay their ransom should have the liberty 
 of returning to Africa, and that the resjt should be
 
 160 ST. sauveur's travels. 
 
 After reduced to slavery. The fort of Saint-Agatha was 
 Christ. gi ven U p t ne ]y tn of January 1287. The ahnoxariffe, 
 his family, and, at most, about a hundred of the 
 most distinguished Moors embarked, and were lost 
 on their passage. The remainder of the Moors, to 
 1898 the number of about twenty thousand remained in 
 slavery. Alphonso divided the lands of the van- 
 quished between those who had seconded him in his 
 enterprize ; and Christianity was the only religion 
 tolerated in the island. 
 
 Alphonso, who was not more than twenty-seven 
 years of age, died at the moment when he began to 
 enter into an arrangement with Don Jayme, his 
 1311 uncle. Don Pedro the Second, of Arragon, the 
 successor of Alphonso, in compliance with the soli- 
 citations of many powerful princes, reinstated his 
 grand-uncle in his estates ; but exacted of him, that 
 he should acknowledge himself his vassal. 
 
 Don Jayme reigned peaceably till his death. His 
 eldest son having retired into a cloister, his crown 
 passed to Don Sancho, his second son. Don Fer- 
 dinand, the third son, was gone to the east with 
 those troops out of Catalonia, who were as cele- 
 brated for their exploits, as for the unfortunate fate 
 they there met with. Don Sancho reigned without 
 disturbance, in spite of the manoeuvres of his ene» 
 mies, who endeavoured to displace him, and to pre- 
 judice him with the court of Sarragossa. This prince 
 ended his days in 1325. ft was in the same reign 
 that they fix the martyrdom of the good Raymond 
 Lully, whose name is mentioned to this hour with 
 the greatest veneration by the islanders. 
 
 Don Jayme, the son of Don Ferdinand, and ne- 
 phew to Don Sancho, ascended the throne. Don 
 Jayme, of Arragon, taking advantage of the mino- 
 rity of this prince, set up fresh pretentions to the 
 kingdom of Majorca. The young monarch con- 
 sented to hold his crown under him, and thus ler- 
 1328 minated all disputes; he also furnished troops in an 
 expedition against Sardinia. 
 
 Don Jayme, of Arragon, when he died, left his 
 crown to Don Alphonso the Fourth, father-in-law 
 to Don Jayme, king of Majorca, who also held his 
 kingdom under him. . After the death of Don Al- 
 phonso, of Arragon, the." king of Majorca sent some
 
 CONQUEST OF; MAJORCA, 15l 
 
 After succours to the princes of the continenj, whom Al- 
 
 Chnst. bohag^jjj who remained master of a part of Spain,' 
 
 had compelled to take up arms. A squadron of 
 
 eight galleys, well armed, went from the ports of 
 
 Majorca, and carried a reinforcement of troops. 
 
 Don Pedro, who had ascended the throne of Ar- 
 ragon, contrived the ruin of the king of Majorca ; 
 he first declined his assistance to support him in his 
 disputes on the subject of the principality of Mont- 
 pell ier, for which the king of Majorca had refused 
 
 i339 to pay homage to the king of France; and taking 
 advantage of the embarrassment of his brother-in- 
 law, deprived him of all his estates on the continent. 
 He concealed his ambition by accusing Don Jayme 
 of not having appeared before the court to which he 
 had been cited ; and thence took occasion to declare 
 that he had forfeited his right to the crown. He 
 v even went so far as to accuse Don Jayme of having 
 had, on former occasions, a design of seizing his 
 person. Resting on these motives, Don Pedro 
 
 3343 raised an army, landed at Majorca, conquered the 
 troops of Don Jayme, and took possession of the 
 whole island, which be added to the crown of Ar- 
 ragon. 
 
 1349 Don Jayme, thus reduced to the last extremity, 
 implored succour from France, and obtained from 
 thence some troops, with which he landed in the 
 island of Majorca; but he lost his life in an action 
 where he fought desperately. This prince was the 
 last of the independant kings who reigned at Ma- 
 jorca. 
 
 1351 The Balearics, thus added to the crown of Arra- 
 gon, the islanders furnished troops in all the wars 
 which that power had to sustain. Their ships made 
 part of the naval force which the king of Arragon 
 sent to sea against the Genoese ; and the Majorcans 
 contributed not a little to the defeat of these repub- 
 licans before Constantinople. 
 
 Peter of Castile, irritated by the captures made 
 "by the Majorcan fleet, or at any rate making it his 
 pretext, declared war against the king of Arragon, 
 and appeared first with his squadron before Barce- 
 lona ; but being compelled to retire by the army of 
 Arragon, his fleet attempted, without success, a 
 cowp de main, on the island of Ivica, but was soou
 
 152 st. satjveur's travels. 
 
 ■After obliged again to retire, on hearing that the king of 
 Christ. j\ rra g 0n had proceeded to Majorca, and pursued 
 him with a superior force. 
 
 This war, in which the Majorcans played a prin- 
 cipal part, drained them of hoth men and money ; 
 and cost them 140 large vessels, which they lost in 
 different engagements. 
 1375 However, Don Jayme, king of Naples, the son 
 of the last king of Majorca, endeavoured to regain 
 the possession of the estates of his ancestors. The 
 differences between Arragon and France, the troubles 
 ■which disturbed Castile, all seemed to favour his 
 plans, when death put a stop to his views, in the 
 year 1375. 
 
 The date of the celebrated Balearic clock, which 
 belongs to the town-hall at Palma, answers to this 
 epoch. Many absurd stories have been related by 
 different authors on the subject of this clock, which 
 by some is supposed to have been brought from 
 Babylon or Jerusalem, in times as remote as the days 
 of Solomon. This piece of mechanism may cer- 
 tainly be considered as one or the most ancient of 
 the kind. 
 
 In ]3g], the Jews experienced in Spain a most 
 cruel persecution, which extended to those who 
 •were settled at Majorca, and the quarter of the 
 town which was inhabited by these people, was pil- 
 laged without mercy. 
 
 Four years after this, Don John, of Arragon, fly- 
 ing from the plague, which ravaged the kingdom of 
 Valencia and Catalonia, took refuge at Majorca ; 
 and died there a year after his arrival. 
 
 In 1398, the court of Arragon armed to make re- 
 prisals on the Algerine corsairs. The fleet which 
 sailed from the ports of Majorca consisted of seventy 
 sail, of which thirty-five belonged to Valencia and 
 Catalonia; the other thirty-five were fitted out by 
 the Majorcans. Their cruise was on the coasts of 
 Africa, the shores of which they ravaged to a great 
 extent, and retired in the autumu, enriched with 
 many considerable prizes. 
 
 From the year 1S94 to 1404, the island of Majorca 
 experienced a sterility; the miseries of which they 
 could but little mitigate by the succours they ob- 
 tained from the neighbwHiryg countries. Majorca al-
 
 DECISION ofr THE CBOWN. 151 
 
 After drained of men and money, by the continual contrn 
 Christ. kmions yyjth which they supplied the king of Arra* 
 gon in the several wars, began sensibly to decline in. 
 power and splendour. The progress of the Africans, 
 who. had freed themselves from the tribute which 
 was payed by the cantons of Tunis, Bugis, and Con- 
 stantine; the increase of their trade, and their fre- 
 quent incursions in the island, completed the ruin 
 of Majorca. 
 
 At the death of Don Martin, the last male of 
 the family of the Counts of Barcelona, several 
 princes laid claim to the possession of the Balearics. 
 Majorca was, at the time, die prey, of intestine dis- 
 sensions. In an assembly of the nobility, where 
 Saint-Vincent Ferrer was called to decide, the crown 
 was decreed to Don Ferdinand, Infant of Castile, 
 nephew of Don Pedro the Fourth, king of Arragon. 
 Saint Vincent Ferrer* whose opinion had decided 
 the suffrages in favour of the prince, dedicated him- 
 self to the service of the church, and preached the 
 tenets of religion in the island of Majorca. They 
 still preserve, in the cathedral of Pulma, the pulpit 
 of t^i s saint. 
 
 The commerce of the M; jorcans. continuing to 
 decline, the island soon felt the want of the grain 
 which they no longer imported; the harvests were 
 not sufficient to supply the wants of the people. 
 Majorca, torn by intestine commotions, was unable 
 to p< t y a considerable sum which was owing to Bar- 
 celona. The forces of the island were continually 
 drained by the supplies sent to Don Alphonso, of 
 Arragon, the son and successor of Don Ferdinand. 
 This prince had formed the enterprize of getting 
 himself crowned king of Sicily, after the death of 
 queen Jane. His army was defeated by the Ge- 
 noese, by whom he was made prisoner, as well as 
 the king of Navarre. This prince, released from 
 his imprisonment, again attempted the conquest of 
 ISaples. The Majorcans furnished him with four 
 galleys and thirteen hundred soldiers. 
 
 Under these unhappy circumstances, Majorca had 
 experienced new misfortunes : the country people 
 irritated with the burthens they had to bear, and 
 displeased with the pride and stiffness oil the nobi- 
 lity, entered into a confederation among themselves 
 
 3T. SAUVETJK.] U
 
 154 ST. SAVVtUR'S TRAVELS. I 
 
 ,Aft«r and hoisted the standard of revolt. The nobles 
 
 Christ. W€re compelled to take to arms. Don Alphonso 
 sent troops from Naples to quiet these disturb- 
 ances; but during three years there was a civil war 
 among the Majorcans; the ravages and desolation, 
 of which extended all over the country. 
 
 The families of different great houses on the con- 
 tinent had taken to arms, as had several princes 
 whose estates were situated near the Balearics. Don 
 John/ of Castile, fought against Don Henry, his 
 eldest son ; Don Charles, son of Don John of Na- 
 varre, attempted the crown of his father ; and 
 
 - > Charles, king of France, had to punish the revolt of 
 his son Louis. 
 
 1460 Alphonso, king of Arragon, died in those com- 
 motions, and left his dominions to John of Navarre, 
 his brother; Charles, son of John of Navarre, re- 
 tired to Majorca. The islanders made expensive 
 preparations for the reception of this prince, but 
 who, being at length restored to the favour of hi* 
 father, returned to Barcelona. His premature death, 
 
 : which was attributed to poison, was the cause of an. 
 
 insurrection in a part of the kingdom of John of 
 
 r , Navarre. The fury of revolution communicated 
 itself even to the island of Minorca. The Major- 
 cans, in this critical juncture, armed and furnished 
 a number of troops and ships for Don John. Thfe 
 insurrection of the Minorcans was quelled after a 
 
 1465 few skirmishes. Four squadrons were collected about 
 this time on the coasts of Arragon and Catalonia. 
 The first, consisting of twenty sail, was fitted out 
 by the rebels. The second carried the French flag, 
 and seconded the operations of the first. The two 
 : others, fitted out by the Majorcans and Minorcans, 
 assisted the cause of Don John. . 
 
 1473 The Majorcans were scarcely extricated from 
 these ruiuous wars, when they were afflicted with 
 the plague, which was brought there by a merchant 
 -.- .. .ship from the Levant. This scourge almost deso- 
 lated the. island. 
 
 1479 Don Ferdinand, the Catholic, succeeded Don John 
 of Arragon in all his estates, and in the king- 
 dom of Castile. This prinee founded a university 
 at Majorca, which had the same laws, and enjoyed 
 3 the same, privileges, as that, at Lerida. During the
 
 REVOLT AGAINST Ttt'E NOBILITY. 153 
 
 After whole of the reign of this monarch, the Majorcans 
 Christ. serve( i" under his colours with distinction. These 
 islanders signalized themselves at the taking of Gre- 
 nada and the conquest of Naples, and in the expe- 
 pedition of Don Pedro of .Navarre against the Af- 
 ricans. Ferdinand having prepared for his expedi- 
 tion to Naples, the Castilian lords refused to accom- 
 pany him in his voyage. Twenty of the richest 
 nobles of Majorca had attended Ferdinand at his 
 court. The islanders completed the signal services 
 which they had done this prince, in furnishing him 
 with fresh succours against Barbarossa, who be- 
 1483 sieged Buges, and was on the point of becoming its 
 master. 
 
 In the reign of the successor of Don Ferdinand, 
 the country people of Majorca again revolted, under 
 the pretext that they alone supported the expences 
 of the island ;»that the nobles, free from every tax, 
 exercised over them the greatest tyranny ; they 
 therefore took up arms, and forced the viceroy to 
 quit the island, and take refuge in lvica. 
 
 This second civil war was still more grievous than 
 the former. The people, thus given up without re- 
 straint to their passions, committed the greatest 
 excesses. The nobles, on their side, opposed them 
 with the most vigorous resistance. Alcudia offered 
 them an asylum, where they defended themselves 
 till the end of the troubles, which terminated with 
 the punishment of the principal rebels. 
 
 Internal peace being established in the island, 
 under the reign of Charles the Fifth, the islanders 
 became exposed to the incursions of the Barbarians. 
 Barbarossa, thirsting to be revenged for the loss of 
 Tunis and of his cruizers, appeared before Majorca 
 with a squadron of eleven galieys. The fires which 
 the islanders kept up on many points of the coast, 
 made Barbarossa believe that the victorious fleet of 
 the emperor was not far distant. Hence, fearing he 
 should be engaged in an action, where he had every 
 thing to risk, he thought proper to retire, and made 
 an attempt on Minorca, of which he made him- 
 sejf master. 
 
 In 1541, the emperor, having projected an expe- 
 dition against Algiers, assembled his naval forces in 
 the ports of Majorca, from whence he set sail. A
 
 |$d ST. sauvetir's travels. 
 
 .After number of the Majorcan nobility embarked in bis 
 phrist. fl ee i # The expedition was not fortunate, but drew 
 on the islanders all the resentment of the Barbarians, 
 who determined to ravage the shores of Majorca; 
 and attempted several times, but without success, to 
 take possession of Alcudia and Polenza : they were 
 also repelled in an attempt to make a landing on the 
 side of Valdemr.sa and Andraiga. 
 
 For twenty \ears afterwards the island remained 
 at peace,- nor did any thing particular happen till 
 . 1662, when it again furnished 300 men for the war 
 against Portugal. 
 lG&5 During the y. hole of the reign of Charjes the Se« 
 cond, the island of Majorca was at peace with all 
 powers, but suffered perpetual divisions among the 
 magistrates and clergy concerning their privileges. 
 These differences occasioned many long debates, 
 and ruinous law suits. 
 
 At the beginning of the 17th century, the arch- 
 duke Charles subjected the whole of Arragoq. Ma- 
 jorca was given up to geheral Lach, who command- 
 ed a fleet of forty ships. The other islands also sub- 
 mitted to the house of Austria. 
 
 After the taking of Barcelona, marshal Berwick 
 gent the chevalier Ashfield, at the head of ten thou- 
 sand men, who took possession of Majorca. The 
 islanders made no resistance. 
 
 The Majorcans served in the war of succession, 
 but did not take any part, the detail of which would 
 be interesting. Ihe Marquis de St. Philippe, in 
 his Commentaries on the War of Succession, and 
 Quincy, in his Military History of the Reign of Louis 
 the Fourteenth, makes honourable mention of the 
 services of the Majorcans. 
 
 In 1708, the English, under the command of 
 major-general Stanhope, took possession of Majorca, 
 which they preserved by the treaty of Utrecht. 
 
 The Trench, commanded by marshal de Kichelieu, 
 took this inland from the English in the year 1756. 
 
 in 171)8, Minorca was given up to the English by 
 the Spanish governor. 
 
 The treaty of Amiens has again put Spain in pos- 
 session of this island. 
 
 RND OF ST. SAGVEVF.'S TKA7EL3.
 
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