THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND 
 
 MRS. PRUDENCE W, KOFOID 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2008 with funding from 
 » IVIicrosoft Corporation 
 
 http://www.archive.org/details/diaryofoccurrencOOIondrich 
 
r 
 
DIARY 
 
 OCCURRENCES 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 A PART OF BELGIUM, HOLLAND, AND UP 
 THE RHINE TO MAYENCE, 
 
 AND THENCE 
 
 TO PARIS, 
 
 IN THE MONTHS OF AUGUST AND SEPTEMBER 1828. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 J, RIDGWAY, PICCADILLY; AND W. SIMPKIN AND 
 R. MARSHALL, STATIONERS* COURT. 
 
 1829. 
 
 %A 
 
G. WOODFALL, angkl. court, skinnbr strbet, London. 
 
36- 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 In presenting this little Volume to the Public, 
 the Writer is conscious that his Preface should 
 be an apology ; because he is well aware it pos- 
 sesses scarcely any information beyond that which 
 may be obtained in the publications of the day : 
 and the countries described are almost as well 
 known as were formerly the counties traversed 
 in a summer''s excursion to the watering places. 
 But, by sending it to the press, the Author is 
 enabled to distribute among his friends a narra- 
 tive which to them is interesting ; and to those 
 to whom he is a stranger, who may deign to 
 waste an hour over its pages, he has to request 
 that they will peruse it with that indulgence 
 which is usually shown to a first appearance. 
 
 iwSJ0023 
 
IV PEEFACE. 
 
 The Author considers it due to the Readers 
 to apprize them, that the historical notices of the 
 cities in Holland and Flanders are mostly com- 
 piled from the Traveller's Guide and Blainville's 
 Travels; the account of Robespierre's arrest 
 and execution from Helen Maria Williams's Let- 
 ters ; and the details respecting the execution of 
 Sandt, and of JefFries's and Blanchard's ascent 
 from Dover, are taken from the Gentleman's 
 Magazine of the respective years. 
 
DIARY 
 
 OCCURRENCES^ 
 
 1828, Aug. 5. — Left London at ten o'clock by 
 
 the Eagle Coach, Mrs. H and Miss 
 
 inside, and myself on the roof, and arrived 
 at half-past eight in the evening at Dover, in- 
 tending to take our night's lodging at the Castle 
 Inn ; but the Eagle being Chaplin's coach, we 
 were taken to his hotel, the Hotel de Londres, 
 and although rather displeased in being in a 
 manner forced from our object, we consented to 
 stop, and had no reason to complain of our ac- 
 commodation. 
 
2 DOVER. CALAIS. 
 
 6th. Rose at six in the morning. The day 
 looked lowering and rainy, but cleared up about 
 seven, and I perambulated the town, which has 
 been much improved by the erection of the Ma- 
 rine Parade, and the Guildford and Clarence 
 Lawns, with a line of bathing-rooms for the 
 convenience of the visitors and residents of the 
 eastern part of the city. At half-past nine, em- 
 barked on board the Salamander Steam-Packet — 
 the wind contrary, but not boisterous ; — among 
 our fellow-passengers we had Prince Maximilian 
 of Bavaria, since married to a Princess of the 
 House of Austria, and Mr. George Byng, the 
 Member for Middlesex. The tide failed us be- 
 fore we reached Calais, and we were obliged to 
 be landed in boats ; and, unfortunately, a shower 
 overtook us almost immediately on our quitting 
 the vessel, which rendered our footing on the 
 pier wet and unpleasant. Having presented our- 
 selves at the Custom-House, we went to Koberts's 
 Hotel, and took possession of our apartments 
 about four hours after we had left the port of 
 Dover. In the afternoon the weather became 
 quite stormy. Dr. T — arrived between eight 
 
CALAIS. DU>JKERaUE. d 
 
 and nine in the evening, after experiencing an 
 extremely rough passage from London, from 
 whence he sailed at seven in the morning. 
 
 7th. Dr. T. and I, in our walk before break- 
 fast, met a funeral procession, which we accom- 
 panied to the church ; the priest headed the 
 mourners, wearing a sort of Phrygian cap, and 
 reminded me of the representations of Mercury, 
 whose office it was to deliver the departed spirits 
 to Charon. After the consecration of the Host, 
 the back of the paten was successively presented 
 to the salutation of the family of the deceased, 
 who each made an oblation at the altar. Hav- 
 ing breakfasted, we engaged a carriage to convey 
 us to Dunkerque ; our first station was at Grave- 
 lines ; outside of the gates we passed the ceme- 
 tery, which forms an exemplification of the motto 
 usually attached to the hatchments of the great, 
 " Mors janua vitae'"; for here the mansions of 
 the dead are literally at the gate of the living. 
 We arrived at Dunkerque at four in the after- 
 noon, and alighted at the Hotel de Flandre, 
 where we met with excellent accommodation. 
 After we had dined we sallied forth in search of 
 
 b2 
 
4 PUNKERQUE* CASSEL. 
 
 adventures, and were surprised to find ourselves 
 in so fine a city. Its principal church is dedi- 
 cated to St. Eloi, and was built by the Spa- 
 niards ; but a magnificent portal, supported by 
 ten Corinthian columns, has since been added, 
 which gives to the edifice, as viewed from the 
 street, an imposing effect. From the church we 
 went to the pier, stretching far over the sands, 
 and which, I think, cannot be less than a mile 
 and a half in length. 
 
 8th. We departed from Dunkerque, and pass- 
 ing by Bergues arrived about noon at Cassel, 
 and took up our quarters at Au Sauvage, Kerri- 
 man''s. From the pavilion at the back of these 
 premises we had a most extensive prospect, Cas- 
 sel being considered the most commanding situa- 
 tion in the Low Countries, an isolated mountain 
 amid a region of plains. General Vandamme is 
 a native of this town, and has a chateau on the 
 brow of the hill, to which is attached a beautiful 
 garden. Here, through vistas in the groves, he 
 may look over Belgium as on a map, and 
 contemplate at leisure on the scenes of his 
 former triumphs. It was our intention to pro- 
 
CASSEL. LILLE. TOUKNAY. O 
 
 ceed from Cassel to Ypres, but not meeting 
 with a conveyance, we took places in the Dili- 
 gence to Lille, remaining for the night with our 
 host, 
 
 9th. After an early breakfast we arranged our- 
 selves in the Diligence ; the two ladies were seated 
 in the interior, in company with a couple of nuns 
 on their way to Arras ; Dr. T. and myself took 
 our places on the Imperiale. The road was de- 
 void of interest ; and on our arrival at Lille, dis- 
 liking the accommodation at the Hotel du Por- 
 tugal, we determined after dining to pursue our 
 route to Tournay, although with some regret, as 
 we had previously intended to pass the Sunday 
 in this city. At half-past seven in the evening 
 we arrived at Tournay, and took our lodgings at 
 the Singe d'Or. Early in the morning I was at 
 the cathedral, almost as soon as the doors were 
 open, and had scarcely recovered my surprise at 
 the beauty of its structure, when my attention 
 was arrested by the loud cries of a lad, which 
 proceeded apparently from a cell at the bottom of 
 the south-eastern tower in the church ; his shriek 
 was that of desolation rather than of pain, and 
 
b TOURNAY. 
 
 soon attracted a crowd of enquirers to know the 
 cause of his detention. What that cause was, 
 or what became of the incarcerated victim, I 
 know not J having almost immediately quitted 
 this temple of affliction. How dreadful is soli- 
 tude ! especially accompanied, as this must have 
 been, by the terrors of superstition. By what 
 principle in human nature is it that the priests of 
 all ages, of all countries, and of all religions, are 
 ever cruel in their punishments, and merciless in 
 their application ? It would seem that, in assum- 
 ing the prerogatives of Deity, and finding the 
 beatitudes of the Almighty unapproachable, they 
 endeavour to imitate His thunders, and aim at 
 inflicting wounds deeper than stripes. Let me, 
 however, be understood as directing these ob- 
 servations against the priesthood considered as a 
 body, for as individuals it must be acknowledged 
 that there always have been, and I trust always 
 will be, many, many illustrious exceptions. Neither 
 are the observations written in condemnation of 
 the lad having been punished, as possibly his 
 conduct might have required chastisement : what 
 I deprecate is the infliction of mental agony ra- 
 
TOUKNAV. 7 
 
 ther than bodily suffering. — While the ladies 
 were preparing for breakfast, I returned to the 
 cathedral in company with Dr. T. ; and now all 
 was harmony, and the music of a fine anthem 
 was resounding through the Gothic aisles^ which 
 added greatly to the solemnity of the service. 
 One of the distinguishing beauties of this church 
 is its carved pulpit ; under the desk is represented 
 the serpent of the constellations encircling a globe, 
 and presenting from his mouth the fatal apple to 
 Eve; over which is the Virgin standing upon the 
 crescent moon, and pointing to a Christ bearing 
 the Cross ; in the centre is a triangle, on which 
 is expressed, that as the first Eve introduced 
 death into the world by sin, the second Eve 
 (Mary) introduced salvation by Christ. 
 
 On leaving the Church we were much amused, 
 as we passed to our Hotel, in reading the tender 
 invitation that the Barber of the Rue des Rats 
 addresses to the passengers, as an inducement to 
 permit him to take them by the nose- His in- 
 scription is — 
 
 '* Ici on rase a la papa, 
 
 " Et on coupe les cheveux aux oiseaux." 
 
8 TOURNAY. 
 
 Which may be paraphrased thus : — 
 Here tenderly we smooth the chin, 
 And fond as doves, the locks we thin. 
 
 In the evening we went to St. Brice ; it was the 
 Fete of the Saint. The Church was crowded to 
 excess, and the spaces between the pillars along 
 the aisles were filled with shrubs and odoriferous 
 plants. As soon as the service was finished, the 
 effigy of the Saint, and all the portable orna- 
 ments, and relics, and banners, and the Host un- 
 der a rich canopy, were perambulated round the 
 parish, the streets of which were strewed with 
 rushes and scented herbs. 
 
 11th. Left Tournay, and as we traversed the 
 winding course through its multiplied ramparts, 
 we were from time to time saluted with the joy- 
 ous shouts of a party accompanying a new mar- 
 ried pair, who were proceeding to a neighbouring 
 village to spend those nuptial days, which, in 
 this country, among the lower classes, are usually 
 dedicated to festivity, which sometimes lasts for 
 a week. The first town on our road was Leuse, 
 then Ath, a small but extremely strong fortified 
 city ; here we dined, and then continued our 
 
BRUSSELS. 
 
 route through Enghien to Hal, celebrated for 
 its ebony Virgin, similar to the one at Loretto, 
 and almost as renowned for her miracles and 
 pilgrims. At seven in the evening, we reached 
 Brussels, where we were lodged like nobles, at the 
 Hotel de Flandre, in the Place Royale. On 
 our way to this capital, we noticed the numerous 
 and extensive plantations of tobacco, which ap- 
 pears much cultivated throughout the Nether- 
 lands; it hung in bunches, suspended at the 
 fronts of most of the farm houses, on the road- 
 side, or was laid layer over layer to dry, in large 
 store-houses constructed for that purpose, where, 
 between each layer of tobacco leaves, a due circu- 
 lation of air was admitted. 
 
 Having now arrived at the capital of Bel- 
 gium, I must not omit to mention a peculiarity 
 which is observed in noting the progress of the 
 hours ; the time is announced by two sets of 
 bells, the one small, the other great ; for example, 
 at half past one, the little bell strikes two, and 
 when the hour is complete, the great hell strikes 
 two; the little bell therefore, is a divider and 
 an anticipator, exciting the careless to prepare 
 
10 WATERLOO. 
 
 for the coming hour, but like all gratuitous ad- 
 monishers, its admonitions are either neglected 
 or misunderstood, for what with the continual 
 chiming of the carillons, the monitory striking 
 of the little, and the louder larum of the great 
 bell, strangers are confused by the multiplicity 
 of tinkling sounds, and even the natives are 
 often puzzled to distinguish by sound alone, the 
 true time of day. 
 
 12th. We hired a carriage from our hotel, 
 and at nine o** clock in the morning set off for 
 Waterloo, the weather proving fortunately fine, 
 which is indispensably requisite for such an ex- 
 pedition, as the road leads through the Forest 
 of Soignies, which, excluding the free circulation 
 of the air, renders the way particularly damp 
 and dirty. After a ride of two hours, we 
 alighted, and procured a guide, who conducted 
 us to the field of battle. The great contest took 
 place at Movmt St. Jean ; in its contiguous val- 
 ley, about 4,000 combatants were buried in one 
 grave ; a little to the right of this position, is 
 erected a large conical mound, surmounted by a 
 lion of granite, placed upon a pedestal of the 
 
WATERLOO. 11 
 
 same material, to which we ascended by 250 
 steps ; the view from thence, commands the 
 whole lines of the respective armies. It was 
 painful to hear the recital of the sufferings that 
 many of the wounded experienced, who were left 
 on the field for three days, before adequate as- 
 sistance could be procured for their relief; we 
 were told that, in their agonies arising from 
 wounds and famine, they earnestly intreated the 
 peasantry to terminate their miseries, by putting 
 them to death. Were it allowable to hazard a 
 conjecture respecting the causes which contri- 
 buted to render the issue of this battle so deci- 
 sive, I should not hesitate to say, that it was 
 mainly attributable to the eagerness of Napoleon 
 to surprise the Duke of Wellington, by which 
 he outstript the movements of Grouchy ; — but if 
 the movements of Grouchy were not sufficiently 
 rapid to accomplish his purposes, those of Blu- 
 cher, recovering from defeat, were beyond all 
 imaginable calculation ; and when Buonaparte, 
 exhausted by the conflict of the day, perceived 
 the most determined and most vindictive of his 
 enemies, pouring down his enraged columns of 
 
12 WATERLOO. 
 
 fresh troops, he dreaded, and perhaps justly 
 dreaded, the result, and therefore fled the contest 
 with precipitation and despair; and thus the 
 allied generals partook of the supper at the 
 Palace of Lacken, which had been prepared for 
 the entertainment of Napoleon. 
 
 Having completed our observations, the sky, 
 which till then had been unclouded, became 
 suddenly overcast, and a few drops of rain gave 
 us a hint to retreat ; we stopped, on our return, 
 to see the monuments in the church of Water- 
 loo, to numerous English oflicers who fell in the 
 great battle, and the various combats which pre- 
 ceded it ; among others, I noticed one to Lieu- 
 tenant Cairnes, who was Lieutenant Burke Cup- 
 page''s half-brother, with an inscription, to which 
 Lieutenant Cuppage has subscribed his name. 
 Adjoining to the premises of the church, is the 
 house where the Marquess of Anglesea had his 
 leg amputated, which lies buried in the garden. 
 The rain having soon passed off, we succeeded 
 in getting back to our hotel without any incon- 
 venience. 
 
 In the afternoon, we took a long walk to the 
 
BRUSSELS. 13 
 
 entrance of the Allee Verte, but a heavy rain 
 came on, which accompanied us to our lodgings, 
 and we only escaped being wet to the skin by 
 occasionally standing up. 
 
 13th. In the forenoon, called upon Mrs. 
 
 E ; we then proceeded to the palace, and 
 
 from thence to the Hotel de Ville, remarkable 
 for its beautiful tower, 364 feet in height, sur- 
 mounted with a statue of St. Michael, repre- 
 sented in the act of striking the dragon, which 
 serves for the weathercock ; in the interior, are 
 some fine specimens of Gobelin tapestry, and 
 what renders the building particularly interesting 
 to the historian, is the fact that here^ in 1654, 
 Christiana, Queen of Sweden, voluntarily re- 
 signed her crown. 
 
 14th. Went to the St. Gudule, and as Mrs. 
 
 H and I were walking up the transept, 
 
 unconscious of wrong, we were separated by 
 one of the gens d''armes that preserves order 
 during the celebration of mass, it being con- 
 sidered indecorous for a lady to take hold of a 
 gentleman's arm in the church. In the centre 
 of the nave, is the famovis pulpit of oak, which 
 
14 brussp:ls. 
 
 stands pre-eminent among tlie numerous carved 
 pulpits of the Netherlands ; it was executed by 
 Henry Verbruggen of Antwerp, in 1699. The 
 subject of this exquisite performance represenjts 
 Adam and Eve being driven out of Paradise, by 
 an angel, with a flaming sword in his hand, and 
 Death pursuing them. These are as large as 
 life, and from the positions in which they are 
 placed, they appear partly to sustain the terrestrial 
 globe, which is above them; in the cavity of this 
 globe is the pulpit. This globe rests on a lofty 
 tree, on the top of which, is a canopy, supported 
 by an angel and Truth, represented under the 
 character of a female. Above is a statue of the 
 Holy Virgin, and the infant Jesus, holding a 
 cross, with which he is crushing the head of the 
 seducing serpent. The Virgin is adorned with a 
 glory, formed by stars, and is surrounded by a 
 number of angels. At the lower part of this 
 pulpit, are two small staircases, and on the 
 branches of the tree, intended to represent the 
 tree of knowledge, are different animals ; those on 
 Eve's side are the peacock, the paiTOt, and the ape ; 
 and on Adam's side, the eagle and the ostrich. 
 
BRUSSELS. ANTWERP. 15 
 
 In the afternoon left Brussels for Antwerp, 
 but, to our great mortification, the rain came 
 down in torrents, which deprived us of the 
 opportunity of enjoying the beauties of a most 
 delightful ride, through a highly cultivated 
 country. We were, however, fortunate enough 
 to get beds for the night at La Couronne, an 
 arrangement which we almost despaired of effect- 
 ing, owing to the crowded state of the city, on 
 account of the approaching fete. 
 
 15th. Called upon Mr. B — --, to whom we 
 had a letter of recommendation from Mr. 
 E , claiming his assistance to procure us ac- 
 commodations until the following Monday ; he 
 accompanied us to the Grand Laboureur and 
 several other of the principal hotels without 
 
 success. We, at length, through Mr. B 's 
 
 intervention, obtained a couple of sleeping-rooms 
 at a restorateur's called the Lands Welvaren, 
 where we found the master and mistress unre- 
 mittingly attentive and the apartments very 
 clean ; but the noise, the bustle, and the smoking 
 of the dining and the supping guests were of a 
 description, that vmder any other circumstances 
 
16 ANTWERP. 
 
 would have rendered the house ineligible for a 
 lodging. Nothing, however, could exceed the 
 jovial character of our landlord; he was ever on 
 the alert, and kindness and gaiety were imprinted 
 on his countenance, notwithstanding his life had 
 been replete with hardships and sorrows — for as 
 a soldier he had contended in many a hard fought 
 battle, and encountered many a wearisome march 
 under the banners of Napoleon, and in the far- 
 famed day of Waterloo was shot through the leg 
 and otherwise dreadfully wounded, so that he lay 
 for two days on the field numbered among the 
 slain ; — and as a father he had, in succession, 
 lost all his children save one infant that we left 
 in its cradle. Our first object, after having set- 
 tled ourselves as above described, was to bend 
 our steps to the cathedral to see Rubens's Descent 
 from the Cross, but which, to our disappoint- 
 ment, though restored to the church, is not yet 
 replaced as an altar-piece — on the contrary, it is 
 exhibited on the naked wall of the south tran- 
 sept, without any accompaniment to render the 
 painting eflPective. From the transept we pro- 
 ceeded to the nave, where the large image of the 
 
ANTWERP. 17 
 
 Virgin (it being the day of her assumption) was 
 seated under a splendid canopy superbly dressed, 
 with a rich crown on her head, the jewels of 
 which, when seen illuminated by the morning 
 sun, as you look up the grand aisle to the eastern 
 window, sparkle with radiated prisms of uncom- 
 mon brilliancy. 
 
 Our next ramble was to the banks of the 
 Scheldt, where we felt ourselves quite revived by 
 the refreshing breezes from the water, as we 
 paced the beautiful quay which extends along 
 the whole line of shore from the citadel till it 
 terminates at the docks and basins constructed 
 by order of Buonaparte. The river appeared 
 crowded with ships on the Antwerp side, and a 
 steam-boat was in constant requisition in convey- 
 ing passengers and goods across the stream to 
 the opposite landing place. 
 
 16th. Attended mass in the church of St. 
 Jaques: the service was quite celestial — and I 
 should think the music and singing would only 
 be exceeded by the performance during the holy 
 week at Rome. From thence paid our respects 
 to M. and Madame B B . Dr. T. 
 
18 ANTWERP. 
 
 and I then went to procure our passports, and 
 were much surprised at the rigid scrutiny stran- 
 gers undergo in obtaining them, which requires 
 their personal appearance. Surely, in a trading 
 city restrictions so severe cannot fail to be in- 
 convenient, and must greatly impede its commer- 
 cial prosperity. 
 
 17th. Went to the exhibition of the works of 
 the modern Flemish artists. Among a number of 
 excellent paintings, which it would be tedious to 
 enumerate, we were highly amused by one in 
 Wilkie's style by C. Francois, an artist resident 
 at Brussels. The subject was that of a gentle- 
 man who, desirous of correcting the perverseness 
 of a spoilt son, brings him to be apprenticed to a 
 cobbler. The story is admirably depicted. The 
 centre groupe consists of the cobbler, his wife, and 
 a lad, their son. The cobbler is seen falling back, 
 ready to burst with laughter at the whimsicality 
 of the idea ; his wife also seems to enter heartily 
 into the scheme, but with a suppression of feeling 
 more appertaining to the delicacy of the female 
 character, while the sly looks of the lad, their 
 son, gives the spectator fully to understand that 
 
AKTWEltP. 19 
 
 he has some suspicion that the whole is intended 
 as a hoax. To the right of the group is the 
 unfortunate youth, turning his back on the party, 
 with downcast looks, and with all the pallid sul- 
 lenness of a pampered offspring of ill-governed 
 wealth. On the opposite side stands the irritated 
 father, his countenance pale with anger ; in his 
 right hand he holds a cane, which he seems in 
 the act of resigning, as much as to say, " he de- 
 serves that it should be laid across his shoulders, 
 and I leave the strapping of him to you."" 
 
 We had scarcely got again into the streets, 
 when the running of the people to join the mar- 
 shalling of the several districts to form the much- 
 talked-of procession, induced us to hasten our 
 steps to the Place de Mer, where the grand cere- 
 monial was to be performed. Our first station was 
 near the hotel of the Grand Labour eur, and to our 
 left we observed a party of ladies, who were not 
 long before they obtained seats on the first floor 
 of a neighbouring house; and being apprehensive 
 of the pressure of the increasing crowd, we 
 speedily followed their example, and were much 
 gratified; on entering the room, to discover the 
 
 c 2 
 
20 ANTWERP. 
 
 ladies to have been our companions at the dinner 
 table at Brussels, where they had acquired our 
 respect by their agreeable conversation and kind 
 attentions, which this unlooked for meeting gave 
 us an opportunity of again enjoying. At length 
 the procession advanced, which was but insigni- 
 ficant compared with those I had seen at Rome. 
 It was preceded by the banners of the various 
 churches — in a line, on each side of which, 
 walked the townspeople, carrying large burning 
 catholic tapers — to these succeeded the magis- 
 trates, — then the Virgin magnificently attired in 
 robes of golden brocade and her head adorned 
 with a crown and quantity of jewels — then came 
 the Host, with all the clergy in grand costume, 
 and the boys in white surplices waving the in- 
 cense closed the march. On reaching the altar, 
 the Host was removed from the canopy under 
 which it had been brought, and the service com- 
 menced by the celebration of a high mass : the 
 spectacle was now truly imposing, particularly 
 when, on the elevation of the sacred emblem, the 
 majority of the immense multitude of assembled 
 spectators knelt to receive the benediction. On 
 
ANTWERP. 21 
 
 the mass being terminated, the procession recom- 
 menced to the Notre Dame, where the banners 
 and the Virgin resumed their stations. In the 
 evening the city was illuminated, and the neigh- 
 bouring forests must have had a movement like 
 Birnam Wood to Dunsinane, for most of the 
 streets on each side were lined with firs, having 
 festoons of flowers from tree to tree, to which, in 
 addition, were appended numberless inscriptive 
 devices, some pious and some also satirical. For 
 example: — it is related that the magnificent tower 
 of the cathedral of Malines having once been 
 strongly illuminated by the moon, it gave it the 
 appearance of being on fire, and assistance poured 
 in from all quarters to put out the flames. On the 
 mistake being discovered, the inhabitants were 
 laughed at, as wishing to extinguish the moon ! 
 And to such a length did the bantering extend, 
 that it led to serious feuds, in which lives were 
 lost. This anecdote was not overlooked. 
 
 18th. In the morning visited the church of 
 the Dominicans, which has many fine paintings, 
 particularly one by Rubens, " the Scourging of 
 
22 ANTWERP. 
 
 Christ."^ The original is preserved under a curtain, 
 but an exceedingly good copy is suspended on 
 the north wall of the transept. The Dominicans 
 is equally celebrated for its church-yard, which 
 exhibits a representation of Mount Calvary, with 
 an entombed Christ looking like a Saracen, robed 
 in scarlet and white, with curly headed hair and 
 beard painted as black as jet ; this figure is seen 
 through a grating to the right of the tomb — on 
 the left is a view of the horrors of Purgatory, 
 with an abundance of flames and demons. 
 
 The last object of our research was the site of 
 llubens^s dwelling : the only remaining relic of 
 the original fabric is an elegant arcade, which se- 
 parated the premises from the garden. We then 
 returned to partake of an early dinner previous 
 to our departure, which had now become indis- 
 pensable, for the bustle occasioned by the jubilee 
 had increased to a degree that rendered a longer 
 residence at our hotel by no means desirable. In 
 short, a great proportion of the lodging visitors 
 were obliged to sleep on mattresses laid on the 
 floor, and in fact we heard that an English fa- 
 
AK TWERP. BREDA. 23 
 
 hiily, arriving late on Sunday night by a diligence 
 from Brussels, was absolutely compelled to re- 
 main until five in the morning on the steps of 
 the grand altar, in the Place de Mer, exposed to 
 the drenching effects of a pitiless storm. 
 
 We commenced our journey into Holland, 
 with expectations the most discouraging, for the 
 Flemings, I suspect, from feelings of jealousy, 
 had represented the conduct of the Dutch towards 
 strangers to be so boorish and rapacious, that we 
 felt quite depressed at the thoughts of commit- 
 ting ourselves to such a people, especially as 
 their language was one with which we were not 
 familiar. We however found, in our intercourse 
 with the Hollanders, that they were far from 
 meriting the ill character given of them by their 
 rivals. 
 
 We arrived in the evening at Breda, after 
 traversing a dreary country, and without meeting 
 any thing of interest, save that of a country-wo- 
 man riding most manfully, with a foot in the 
 stirrup on each side of the horse, a cap on her 
 head, with a broad band of gold over her fore- 
 head, and a large circumference of body, resem- 
 
24 BHEDA^ 
 
 bling what we may imagine would have been the 
 great Astley in petticoats. 
 
 We alighted at the Lion d'Or, and as soon as 
 we had selected our apartments. Dr. T. and I 
 engaged a guide, it being now dark, to conduct 
 us to the office of the Diligence, that we might 
 secure places to continue our journey on the en- 
 suing day. 
 
 19th. After an early breakfast, we took a walk 
 through the town, and soon discovered that we 
 were in a Protestant state ; for we had lost the 
 music of the carillons, and the doors of the 
 churches were all closed, which deprived the city 
 of those attractions that the pomp and ceremonies 
 of the catholic service, with the ready admission 
 at almost all hours to their places of worship, 
 afford. It was here, however, that we saw the 
 last of the migrating tribe of storks pluming itself 
 on the chimney-top, possibly to join its com- 
 panions in their flight, for as we advanced we 
 found that they had abandoned the country. 
 These birds take possession of their nests at 
 the chimney-tops in March, and in August de- 
 part to a more southern region. The individual 
 
BREDA. 26 
 
 tjsteems himself most fortunate whose chimney is 
 selected by the stork as an asylum for the con- 
 struction of its nest ; in short this bird is held 
 here in as high estimation as the ibis was in 
 Egypt, for deprived of the stork the land would 
 swarm with frogs, like the land of Pharaoh 
 under the inflicting rod of Moses. 
 
 The attachment of the storks to their young is 
 intense. It is related that during a fire that took 
 place at Ley den, in which several houses were 
 destroyed, the female storks that were unable to 
 remove their young from their nests perished in 
 the flames, rather than abandon their charge. 
 And their arrangements, previous to their 
 change of climate, exhibit a combination and 
 intelligence, equalling, if not surpassing, hu- 
 manity. 
 
 Shaw, as quoted by Pennant, says, that before 
 <iSLch. migration they rendezvous in amazing 
 numbers, are for a while much in motion among 
 themselves, and after making many short flights, 
 as if to try their wings, all of a sudden take 
 flight, with great silence, and with such speed, as 
 in a moment to attain so great a height as to be 
 
26 BRKDA- 
 
 instantaneously out of sight, which is thus beau- 
 tifully described by Thomson : 
 
 Where the Rhine loses his majestic force 
 In Belgian plains. * # # 
 
 The stork-assembly meet ; for many a day 
 Consulting deep and various, ere they take 
 Their arduous voyage through the liquid sky. 
 And now, their route designed, their leaders chose; 
 Their tribes adjusted, clean'd their vigorous wings; 
 And many a circle, many a short essay, 
 Wheel'd round and round, in congregation full 
 The figur*d flight ascends, and riding high 
 The aerial billows, mixes with the clouds. 
 
 But it is not the stork alone that excites our 
 admiration, for we are lost in astonishment when 
 we contemplate the surprising sagacity and accu- 
 rate adaptation to circumstances which the animal 
 world displays in its various gradations, from the 
 beetle in the field, to the elephant of the forest. 
 And if the animal be thus endowed, how wonder- 
 fully does it exhibit the boundless wisdom and 
 goodness of the Almighty, as displayed in the 
 Divine intelligence that pervades the whole of 
 
BKEBA. 27 
 
 creation, considered in its immensity and in its 
 infinity, of systems and of worlds ! 
 
 After our return from our ramble, we prepared 
 for our departure to Rotterdam, which was at- 
 tended with some inconvenience^ on account of 
 the bridge over which we had to pass being then 
 under repair. We had therefore to accompany the 
 attendants employed to carry the luggage by a 
 circuitous path across ramparts, that led to a ferry 
 over the river which surrounds the fortifications. 
 We here embarked, and were landed near the 
 place where the Diligence was stationed, outside 
 of the Rotterdam Gate. This incident delayed 
 us considerably. At length the vehicle was in 
 motion; and when we reached Moerdyke, we 
 embarked, carriage and all, on board a steam-boat, 
 which conveyed us across a large branch of the 
 JMeuse, or rather lake, described in the maps the 
 Bies Bosch. We then proceeded to Dort, from 
 whence, by means of a ferry-boat, we were taken 
 to the opposite shore, and thence continued our 
 journey to the banks of the river which separated 
 us from Rotterdam, when we were again placed 
 in a steam-boat, which safely landed us at our 
 
28 ROTTEKDAM. 
 
 place of destination. The hotel we had selected 
 for our lodging was the Marechal de Turenne ; 
 but, unluckily for us, the master of the hotel was 
 lately deceased, leaving a widow and large family 
 of children ill provided for ; so that we met with 
 meagre fare, where we had anticipated the best of 
 entertainment. The city itself, however, was 
 very gay, it being the season of their annual fair, 
 and the streets were crowded with booths replete 
 with the finest toys we ever saw offered for sale. 
 There were also quantities of beautiful lace, as 
 well for trimmings, as made up in every variety 
 of female attire, where such manufacture is intro- 
 duced. But as every good has its attendant 
 evil, so the multiplicity of booths deprived us of 
 the view of the streets, or rather quays, parti- 
 cularly of the fine one where we were lodged. 
 Rotterdam being wholly a commercial city, pre- 
 sented few objects of curiosity to such casual vi- 
 sitors as ourselves ; but of these the most conspi- 
 cuous were the statue of Erasmus, and the lean- 
 ing construction of the houses. The first, not- 
 withstanding that Erasmus was the glory of their 
 country, the natives seem to treat with little re- 
 
ROTTERDAM. 29 
 
 spect, for the bronze was painted black, and co- 
 vered with cobwebs ; yet it still preserves an air 
 of great dignity, and gave me an idea of the re- 
 presentations of Cardinal Wolsey, but with a 
 character of countenance far less sensual. The 
 second — the impending inclination of the houses 
 — is to a stranger quite terrific ; but as the Dutch 
 are a calculating people, no doubt this deviation 
 from the perpendicular is the plan best adapted 
 to the peculiar circumstances of the country, al- 
 though I am not mathematician enough to de- 
 velope its principles. 
 
 20th. Went by the trekschuit to the Hague, 
 which was our first essay by this mode of con- 
 veyance, and we were fortunate in having very 
 pleasant travelling companions, namely, the Eng- 
 lish chaplain of Rotterdam and his lady. Never- 
 theless, the tedious progress of the vessel, and 
 the dull uniformity of the scenery, added to the 
 perpetual entanglement of the encountering track- 
 ing lines, although the extrication is made with 
 great dexterity, renders this kind of travelling 
 not the most agreeable, especially to those who 
 do not possess the phlegmatic temperature of the 
 Dutch. At Delft ourselves and higgage were 
 
30 ROTTERDAM. THE HAGUE. 
 
 transferred to another trekschuit ; and as this 
 transfer is not unfrequent in canal travelling, it 
 is an additional drawback on whatever advan- 
 tages it may otherwise possess. It is true there 
 are always porters ready at the landing places to 
 convey your luggage, but then these must be 
 paid, which subjects foreigners to imposition ; 
 and you are obliged to pursue them all through 
 the town to the place of embarkation on another 
 canal, the distance of which is often considerable. 
 
 On our arrival at the Hague we took up our 
 quarters at the Vieux Doelen*, a fine hotel in the 
 Place Royale. 
 
 * As the meaning of Doelen is not generally understood 
 by the English reader, it may not be improper to add an 
 explanation. The Doelen were, formerly, places where 
 parties met to practise with the cross-bow, and shoot with 
 arrows at a butt ; and it was at these assemblies that the 
 ancient patriots met and arranged their plans, which ter- 
 minated in the liberation of their country from the Spa- 
 nish yoke. It has hence passed into an appellation for 
 hotels, and even for colleges. Shooting with the arrow is 
 still a favourite amusement among the inhabitants of the 
 low countries, where almost every village is furnished with 
 an enclosure in which a high pole, or rather mast, is fixed, 
 having an artificial bird at its top, as an object pour tirer 
 a la fleche, to shoot at with arrows. 
 
THE HAGUE. 31 
 
 21st. We engaged a carriage and a commis- 
 sionaire. We alighted first at the royal mu- 
 seum and then at the palace, which, although it 
 presents externally nothing attractive, yet the 
 apartments, in simple grandeur and elegant deco- 
 ration, exceed every thing we could have ima- 
 gined ; and the interest they excite is much in- 
 creased by learning that most of the embroidery 
 of the satin covering the chairs was worked by 
 members of the royal family, and some beauti- 
 ful specimens of painting were the productions of 
 the queen herself; in particular, a charming 
 portrait of the Princess Maria, when an infant. 
 This princess was now in her eighteenth year, 
 and was to have been married, in the ensuing 
 November, to the son of the ex- king of Swe- 
 den ; but this union has not taken place, and re- 
 port has given her hand to a suitor of higher 
 distinction. Our next drive was to Scheveling, 
 distant about two miles ; it is the great bathing- 
 place of the Dutch noblesse. The queen has 
 here a pavilion, and the bathing-rooms and ma- 
 chines are certainly superior to any we have yet 
 seen in England, and the walk on the sands is 
 
32 THE HAGUE. 
 
 delightful. It was from hence that, in May 
 1660, Charles II. embarked, on his restoration 
 to royalty. From Scheveling we went to the 
 King^s house in the wood, which may be consi- 
 dered rather as a nobleman''s villa than the resi- 
 dence of a monarch. It possesses, however, an 
 octagon saloon, forming the centre of the build- 
 ing, which, from the top of the cupola to the 
 skirting board of the floor, is painted by the most 
 eminent masters of the age and the country at 
 the period of its construction, namely, Rubens, 
 Vandyke, Jordaens, and others, and is perhaps 
 unique in this mode of exhibiting the powers of 
 the art. Vulcan'*s forge, by Rubens, over the 
 chimney, is esteemed one of his chef-d''oeuvres ; 
 and the portraits of the four principal artists that 
 were employed are introduced as whole length 
 figures, occupying four of the lower tier of the al- 
 ternate panels of the octagon. Having now seen 
 the objects most usually visited by strangers, and 
 got our passports countersigned by the ministers 
 of England, France, and Prussia, that we might 
 travel uninterruptedly up the Rhine to Mentz, 
 and thence to Paris, we went to our hotel to dine, 
 
THE HAGUE.— LKYDEN. 33 
 
 and here, I must confess, there was certainly 
 something like an attempt at fraud. In the first 
 place, they charged in the bill for a dinner we had 
 previously paid for, which I should have attri- 
 buted to accident, had it not happened that, on 
 retiring from our repast, my Traveller's Guide, 
 which had been a subject of reference, was inad- 
 Tertently left on the table. Before, however, we 
 had proceeded half a dozen steps from the dining- 
 room. Dr. Taylor recollected the circumstance, 
 and I returned immediately and detected the 
 waiters endeavouring to conceal the book, which 
 they had taken to the bar for that purpose, in- 
 stead of following us to restore it, which it was 
 their duty to have done. I am fully persuaded, 
 notwithstanding, that the master of the hotel 
 was perfectly unacquainted with the conduct of 
 those he employed, as the house was one of two 
 departments, a lodging one and a restaurateur's. 
 The offending party belonged to the restau- 
 rateur's. 
 
 We arrived late in the evening by the Trek- 
 schuit at Leyden. Our first intention was to 
 have gone to the Golden Ball in the Broad 
 
34 LEYDEN. 
 
 Street, but the lodging-rooms were all taken. 
 We therefore went to the Soleil d'Or, where our 
 reception was such, that we had no reason to re- 
 gret our previous disappointment. 
 
 Having engaged a commissionaire, we accom- 
 panied him to the Stadt House, in the Council 
 Chamber of which are some historical paintings 
 in commemoration of the heroic conduct of its 
 inhabitants during the long siege the city sus- 
 tained against the Spaniards in 1574. . And if — 
 
 Illi robur et ses triplex. 
 
 Circa pectus erat — 
 
 Or oak or brass, with triple fold. 
 
 That hardy mortal's daring breast enroll'd — 
 
 be applied to the hero who first committed him- 
 self in a fragile bark to the ocean, what language 
 should be applied to the inflexible firmness of 
 the Governor of Leyden, who presided over the 
 destinies of his fellow-citizens at this memorable 
 period, himself depicted as the representative of 
 Famine, surrounded by haggard men and half- 
 starved women and children, who, with bended 
 knees and uplifted hands, are imploring a surren- 
 der, to preserve them from annihilation ? Un- 
 
LEYDEN/ 35 
 
 shaken, notwithstanding the conflicting anguish 
 of his feelings, and the almost hopeless situation 
 of his circumstances, he thus undauntedly an- 
 swered their petition : — " I have sworu that I 
 will never surrender myself, or my fellow-citizens^ 
 to the cruel and perfidious Spaniards; and I 
 will die rather than violate my oath ; food, I 
 have none, or I would give it to you ; but if my 
 death can be of use to you, take me, tear me to 
 pieces, and devour me ; I shall die with satisfac- 
 tion if I know that my death will benefit you, 
 and protract your noble defence."" His auditors 
 gazed on each other silently and with astonish- 
 ment, and retired to their respective posts, deter- 
 mined rather to die of hunger, or to perish with 
 their wives and children in the flames of the city, 
 kindled with their own hands, than submit to the 
 tyranny of the Spaniards. 
 
 The Equinox now arrived ; and one of those 
 storms arose, which they used to contemplate 
 with dread and horror. The wind blew tempes- 
 tuously on their coast, and the sea, no longer 
 restrained by those stupendous mounds that had 
 before held it in subjection, rushed on the land, 
 
 d2 
 
36 
 
 LEYDEN. 
 
 scattering desolation and death. The forts of the 
 besiegers were surrounded, or covered with wa- 
 ter. The flood continued to rise, and the Spa- 
 niards fled terror-struck from its fury, or found a 
 watery grave. In the mean time, the little fleet 
 of their compatriots' boats, boldly and trium- 
 phantly advanced amidst the storm, and reached 
 the gates of the city. The relief thus miracu- 
 lously conveyed to them was most urgently re- 
 quired ; for their stores of every kind were so 
 completely exhausted, that, had the blockade 
 continued two days longer, they must all have 
 perished. Impressed with the combination of 
 more than human causes that produced the sud- 
 den and unexpected retreat of their enemies, the 
 people of Leyden considered their deliverance as 
 an intervention of Providence, and had a medal 
 struck with this legend : — 
 
 Sicut Sennacherib a Jerusalem. 
 
 Sic Hispani a Leyda Noctu Fugati. 
 
 At one period of the siege the hopes of the in- 
 habitants were revived by the arrival of two car- 
 rier pigeons, with notes under their wings con- 
 taining promises of succour. These birds, after 
 
LEYDEN. 
 
 37 
 
 their death, were embalmed, and are still pre- 
 served in the Stadt House. 
 
 To commemorate the courage and fidelity dis- 
 played by the inhabitants of Leyden in this 
 dreadful siege, the Prince of Orange gave them 
 their option, to be exempted for a certain period 
 from taxes^ or to have a university founded in 
 their town. They nobly chose the latter. Never 
 did any seat of learning spring from a nobler 
 cause ; and by the number of celebrated men 
 which it has produced, it has not disgraced the 
 lustre of its origin. 
 
 From the Stadt House our guide led us 
 to the Museum, through that quarter of the 
 city which in 1807 was, by the explosion of 
 a vessel laden with gunpowder, destroyed, as it 
 were, by an earthquake, leaving an area of great 
 extent, once covered with houses and streets, 
 of which not a vestige now remains. From the 
 Museum we passed to the Alteberg, which com- 
 mands a fine view of the city and surrounding 
 country ; we then returned to prepare for the 
 continuance of our journey : we had in the af- 
 ternoon some heavy rain, in the evening we ar- 
 
38 HAARLEM. 
 
 rived by the Diligence at Haarlem, and took our 
 abode at the Golden Lion. 
 
 23d. One great object of attraction at Haarlem 
 is its celebrated organ, which every stranger 
 makes a point of hearing ; for this purpose it is 
 customary, at the different hotels, to make up a 
 party, as the performance lasts an hour, and the 
 organist's fee is a ducat. This led me to an ac- 
 quaintance with a fellow-countryman travelling 
 to see the world, and " catch the living manners 
 as they rise."' He had arrived at Rotterdam by 
 the steam-packet from London ; and in convert 
 sation I learned that he had been dreadfully sick 
 during the whole of the voyage ; that he had 
 seen nothing of Rotterdam, having left it almost 
 immediately for Leyden ; that of Leyden also he 
 had seen nothing, for it had rained hard all the 
 while he was there, and therefore he did not go 
 out. When pressed to accompany us to the Ca- 
 thedral, he declined with regret, but said he had 
 not time, for the Diligence was just ready to 
 start for Amsterdam ; and thus it appeared he 
 fled from place to place, without understanding 
 a word of any language, but that acquired within 
 
HAARLEM. 39 
 
 le sound of Bow Bell, and without any know- 
 dge of the cities and countries he traversed, 
 eyond that of dining and sleeping at the various 
 otels in his progress ; — simply to report on his 
 eturn to England, that he had made a Continent- 
 d tour. Having left him to take his course, we 
 wrere the first of the party in the church ; and 
 when they were all assembled, were placed in the 
 pews to hear this wonderful instrument, with 
 which we were equally surprised and delighted. 
 In the imitation of a storm the music was the 
 very echo of the elements, and in the passages 
 from popular airs was very effective, although 
 its tones are considered as more powerful than 
 sweet ; its vox humana stop however, I believe, is 
 esteemed transcendently melodious. From the 
 Cathedral we proceeded to the Town-hall, where 
 are carefully preserved, under glass cases, the 
 earliest specimens of Coster'^s printing, the dis- 
 covery of which is claimed for him by the natives 
 of Haarlem. His first book was intituled Spe- 
 culum Humanae Salvationis ; it is without date, 
 but supposed to have been printed in 1420, a 
 fact which, if it could be evidenced, would fairly 
 
40 
 
 HAAKLEM. 
 
 place him in advance of his competitors. Cos- 
 ter's statue is placed opposite to the house where 
 he was born. It has this inscription : — 
 
 M. S. VIRO CONSULARI, 
 
 Laurentio Costero Harlemensi, alteri Cadmo, & Artis 
 Typographicae circa annum Domini 1430, Inventori primo, 
 De Litteris ac toto Orbe optime merenti, banc Q. L. C. Q. 
 Statuam quia ^Eream non habuit, pro monumento posuit 
 
 Civis gratiss. 
 Adrian. Roman. Typogr. Anno 1630. 
 
 On our return wefound that Madame Godthardt, 
 our hostess, had prepared a collation for us in 
 her own apartment, that we might have some re- 
 freshment previous to our departure for Amster- 
 dam ; and, indeed, we cannot leave Haarlem 
 without expressing our acknowledgment to our 
 obliging hostess for her very kind attention to 
 our comfort and accommodation while under her 
 roof. 
 
 At four in the afternoon we took our seats in 
 the Diligence, and at six arrived at Amsterdam, 
 and directed our luggage to be taken to the 
 Hotel des Grandes Armes d' Amsterdam au coin 
 du Rusland, whither we followed the porters, and 
 
AMSTERDAM. 41 
 
 succeeded in obtaining a handsome suite of rooms 
 on the principal story, which was so far fortu- 
 nate, as the bad water, the humid atmosphere, 
 and unwholesome exhalations from the dikes, had 
 begun to affect my travelling companions, leav- 
 ing me the only one of the party that was not in- 
 valided. On which account, on the following 
 days, August 24 and 25, we confined ourselves 
 to occasional strolls in the city, or from the win- 
 dows of our apartment, in noticing the costume 
 of the passing multitude, of which the most re- 
 markable was the dress of those belonging to the 
 orphan establishment. It was divided into right 
 and left ; the one red, the other black. 
 
 26th. Our attendant commissionaire conducted 
 us to Broek and Saardam. In our way to the boat, 
 we stopped to see the Palace, formerly the mag- 
 nificent Stadthouse, in the vaults under which, it 
 was imagined, was deposited almost the wealth of 
 a universe. But it appeared, when the French 
 took possession of Amsterdam, on their conquest 
 of Holland, that like the migrating storks, these 
 riches had silently and instantaneously flown, for 
 on examining the golden vaults, not an ingot 
 
42 AMSTERDAM. BROEK. 
 
 was found remaining ; in short, the story of the 
 hoarded deposits is now believed, by many, to 
 have been as baseless as the fabric of a vision, 
 and that whilst the bank circulated its paper on 
 the faith of its securities, it was no less active in 
 employing the securities themselves to its advan- 
 tage. From the Palace, we pursued our way to 
 the steam-boat, and it was quite refreshing to in- 
 hale the breezes from the harbour, in our escape 
 from the effluvia of the canals. We were con- 
 veyed across the Y to the opposite shore, where 
 a carriage we had hired was ready to receive us, 
 and thence we proceeded to Broek. The road was 
 on a causeway, between marshes, until we arrived 
 at the village, which is one of enchantment. Its 
 streets are neatly paved with pebbles, in mo- 
 saique, and these are sanded over in wavy figures 
 like the chalked floors of a ball-room ; and each 
 year, the houses are carefully and beautifully 
 painted, but the front door and windows are 
 never opened except on particular occasions, such 
 as the marriage, baptism, or funeral of one of its 
 inmates. We were admitted into one of the 
 gardens, where every variety of walk and device 
 
BllOEK. 43 
 
 is contrived to amuse; but the contracted situa^ 
 tion and habits of the owner have necessarily 
 led him into puerilities resembling those dis- 
 played by the late Walsh Porter, at Craven 
 Cottage, and other of his residences; for ex- 
 ample: — amid the rushes of a little pond, you 
 see a painted swan — on its banks, a canvas 
 angler — seated in an alcove, a wooden Pastor— 
 and what is most entertaining in a peasants hut, 
 an old man and woman ; he smokes genuine 
 tobacco, and she spins and sings, the motion and 
 sound being produced, I conjecture, by an organ, 
 the bellows of which puts the whole machinery 
 in activity, and the illusion is complete. From 
 the bowers of this Dutch Arcadian, we went to 
 the mansion of a neighbouring gentleman, to view 
 the kitchen arrangements* It was an exquisite 
 specimen of culinary cleanliness; the pots and 
 kettles were of brass or copper, and placed within 
 glass cases, where they shone with reflective 
 brightness; the cistern-cocks and pump-handles 
 %vere likewise of shining brass, and lest the hand 
 should tarnish their lustre, wooden instruments 
 are applied to turn the one, or act as a lever to 
 
44 BROEK. 
 
 the other. Quitting the dwelling of the gentle- 
 man, we went to that of the herdsman ; and here 
 the same scrupulous order and neatness pre- 
 vailed. The building formed a square, under the 
 roof of which resided the family, and also, in 
 winter, the cattle : the stalls for the cows were 
 neat as parlours, with paved floors, inclining 
 from the crib to the entrance, along which was 
 a gutter, to carry off every thing unclean ; and 
 lest the animal should cast about offensively 
 with its tail, its tail is carefully suspended to the 
 rafters. We then traversed the village, the usual 
 tranquillity of which was in some measure dis- 
 turbed by a fair. In the booths, we observed 
 but few toys, although there was an abundance 
 of gingerbread, which may naturally be ac- 
 counted for, as gingerbread in this country 
 answers the Poefs definition of music, 
 
 "It is the food of love;" 
 
 for when the amorous swain woos the object of 
 his affections, at that lone hour when the parents 
 are supposed to be in bed, the first question the 
 fair one asks, on his knocking at the door, is, 
 
BROEK. SAARDAM. 45 
 
 " ^ Have you any gingerbread?' If he repliesinthe 
 affirmative, he finds Kttle difficulty in gaining ad- 
 mission, and a second visit insures his success.'"* 
 After the celebration of the nuptials, instead of 
 bride-cake, it is customary for the new-married 
 pair to send to each acquaintance two bottles of 
 wine, generally of the finest Hock, spiced and 
 sugared, and decorated with a profusion of ribands. 
 Having taken leave of this fairy domain, 
 we returned to the place where we first met 
 our carriage, and then were driven in a di- 
 rection almost parallel with the one we had 
 left, to Saardam, a town with more than 2,000 
 windmills ; and here it was that, in 1696, Peter 
 the Great, that he might take advantage of every 
 gale that blew, descended from the throne of the 
 Czars to place himself an apprentice to a ship- 
 wright. The cottage in which he resided is re- 
 ligiously preserved, and, similar to the Santa 
 Casa, at Loretto, is now enclosed by an outer 
 building, to protect it from the weather; over 
 
 * Vide S. Ireland's Picturesque Tour through Holland, 
 Vol. I. p. 1 63, This applies, of course, to the lower classes 
 only. 
 
46 SAARDAM. 
 
 the door of the hut is the date of its erection, 
 1634. Peter'^s apartment was a small room, into 
 which you enter from the little alley, where the 
 dwelling is ; it has one small window to the right 
 of the entrance, and on the right side of the 
 room is the fire-place, next to which, on the side 
 opposite the window, is a small closet, and on the 
 wall on that side, also, is an inscription in 
 Russian and Dutch, intimating that 
 
 « To the Great, nothing is Little." 
 
 To the left of the entrance, beyond a door that 
 opened to his workshop, is a small recess which 
 used to contain his bed. The table upon which 
 he took his meals, the three old triangular wooden 
 chairs, which formed his furniture, and a ladder 
 that led to a loft over the room, remain as relics ; 
 and over the fire-place is a square tablet of 
 marble, placed in the wall by the Emperor 
 Alexander*'s hands, with this inscription : 
 
 PETRO MAGNO 
 ALEXANDER 
 
SAARDAM. — UTRECHT. '4^ 
 
 There is also an adjoining tablet, placed by the 
 magistrates, recording the transaction which oc- 
 curred on the memorable restoration of the fa- 
 milies of Bourbon and Nassau, after the expulsion 
 of Napoleon. How mysterious are those hidden 
 springs that operate on our feelings ! Who can, 
 unmoved, seat himself by the table, on one of the 
 Czar's old triangular chairs, without receiving, 
 as it were, an impulse from that mortal immor- 
 tality, (if the language be allowable,) which the 
 impression that it was once occupied by Peter 
 the Great conveys ? 
 
 And it is with this species of posthumous ma- 
 gic that the Romanists, who were well acquainted 
 with the all-subduing influence of such impres- 
 sions, have been enabled by charmed words, to 
 consecrate old bones and tattered garments, and 
 by their instrumentality, to establish and perpe- 
 tuate a dominion over the minds of their enthu- 
 siastic, but credulous and deluded votaries. 
 
 27th. We left Amsterdam for Utrecht, and 
 right glad were we to breathe again in a pure 
 atmosphere. Utrecht bears a conspicuous place 
 in the Dutch history ; the famous Peace of 
 
48 UTRECHT. 
 
 Utrecht was signed in one of the halls of the 
 university, in 1713. This city has likewise the 
 honour of giving birth to that great and worthy 
 character. Pope Adrian the Fourth, born in 
 1549. I ascended the Dom Tower, which stands 
 apart from the remains of the cathedral ; it is 
 said to be 464 feet in height, and that from the 
 top may be seen fifty-one walled towns and cities ; 
 it is considered one of the most extensive views 
 in Europe. We lodged, for the night, at the 
 Old Castle of Antwerp. 
 
 28th. We resumed our journey through Ziest, 
 where Count Zinzendorff"'s Moravian brethren 
 have extensive establishments. On our arrival 
 at the banks of the Waal, opposite Nymeguen, 
 we were taken across on a flying bridge, which is 
 a platform laid over two barges linked together, 
 and large enough to convey several carriages 
 at one time. As it was the first we met with, it 
 excited our curiosity, but so imperceptible was 
 its motion, that being seated in our carriage, we 
 were not aware that the bridge had quitted the 
 quay until we were nearly half way over the 
 river. The arrangement for the completion of a 
 
NYMEGUEN. 49 
 
 bridge of this clescriptioii is made by a succes- 
 sion of boats held together by cables ; the first 
 boat being strongly moored in the centre of the 
 river, and the others moving from this centre, in 
 a line down the stream, upon the last of which, 
 being two barges united, the bridge is con- 
 structed, and as soon as it is disengaged from 
 the quay on either shore, it obeys the rudder, 
 and swings over to the other side, the current 
 preserving the tension of the line, and the steers- 
 man directing the inclination of the ciurve to the 
 right or to the left bank. At Nymeguen, we 
 lodged at the Castle of Antwerp, which seems to 
 be a favourite sign in this part of Holland ; our 
 first inquiry, after we had selected our apart- 
 ments, was respecting the steam-packet for Co- 
 logne, it having been our intention to embark 
 from hence ; but here we were similarly circum- 
 stanced as we were at Antwerp, the tide did not 
 suit; we determined, therefore^ to proceed to 
 Dusseldorf by land. 
 
 29th. We amused ourselves in rambling about 
 this ancient city, which is very irregularly built, 
 many of the streets being steep and narrow, but 
 
 E 
 
50 NYMEGUEN. 
 
 the principal one, in which is the Town Hall, 
 is very spacious, and leads to a fine mall, termi- 
 nated by the Belvidere or Prospect House, which 
 commands views extending from Arnheim and 
 Duisburg to the north, to Cleves and Geldres in 
 the south, and towards the east over half the 
 forests of Gelderland to those of Westphalia. 
 In the Town Hall, which is replete with objects 
 of interest and antiquity, is an old painting, 
 called the Nymeguen Enigma, (Raadsel van 
 Nijmegen,) its date is 1619. Eight figures are 
 represented assembled in the great hall of the 
 Stadthouse ; to the right is an old man with his 
 head lying in the lap of a middle-aged woman, 
 having an inscription over her, to this effect : 
 
 1. The woman speaks. 
 Mark well, and explain how this can be; 
 The two in the red are my father's brothers. 
 The two in the green are my mother's brothers. 
 The two in the white are my children, and I the 
 
 mother. 
 Of these six, the father is my husband. 
 The relationship of which, though great, is not 
 
 unlawful. 
 
NYMEGUEN. 51 
 
 2. The two in red speak. 
 "With our consent it was accomplished. 
 That our niece was given as wife to our father. 
 For she was not our father's niece ^ 
 The which no one can correctly assert. 
 
 5. The two in green speak. 
 It is wonderful to notice these figures, 
 For here is our father depicted. 
 Who has married our niece, 
 Which, nevertheless, occasions no reproach. 
 
 4. The two in white speak. 
 Our actual father is that old man; 
 The mother of us both is the woman there. 
 People say, how can that be. 
 That our brothers are uncles to our mother ? 
 
 Explanation of the Enigma. 
 Huybert, the old man, took for his first wife 
 Anna, a widow, having, by her former marriage, 
 a son named Gysbert; by Huybert, she had 
 two sons, Adam and Arend, which are the two 
 painted in red. On her death, he married Beel, 
 his second wife, who was likewise a widow, 
 having, by her former husband, a daughter, 
 named Jacomyn ; by this second wife, Huybert 
 
 E 2 
 
52 CLEVES. 
 
 had also the two sons^ Bartel and Barend, that 
 are painted in green. In the course of events, 
 it happened that the son of the first widow inter- 
 married with the daughter of the second widow, 
 and the fruit of this marriage was a daughter, 
 named Charlotte, who afterwards became the 
 third wife of the old man, by whom he had his 
 two youngest sons, Caspar and Conrad, who are 
 painted in white. 
 
 Having terminated our ramble, we resumed 
 our journey, but as the afternoon was sultry, and 
 the roads sandy and heavy, it was late in the 
 evening when we arrived at Cleves, the sur- 
 rounding country of which appears delightful, 
 particulatly in the approach to the city, through 
 the beautiful park, where are the baths and 
 mineral springs. As we passed up the main 
 street to the King of Prussia Hotel, which was 
 our resting place for the night, we noticed the 
 sheep hanging at the butchers'* stalls, decorated 
 with flowers ; an exhibition which I had not met 
 with since I was, in 1824, in Italy, where, at 
 Marcerata, my attention was attracted by this 
 
CLEVES. 53 
 
 species of decoration, which per bellezza is re- 
 sorted to by the butchers on the Sundays, and 
 which, no doubt, is a remnant of the ancient 
 homage to the Sun, on whose day, over the doors 
 of their dwellings, the old Romans were accus- 
 tomed to suspend garlands, and to adorn the 
 animals destined for sacrifice with flowers. 
 
 We cannot quit Cleves without recalling to mind 
 that Henry the Eighth obtained from hence the 
 fourth of his wives, and the one whom, perhaps 
 fortunately for her, he considered as a Flanders 
 mare, and having more respect for his quadrupeds 
 than his queens, she escaped with her head, and 
 accepted, with the utmost tranquillity, a pension 
 in lieu of the king, and the title of his adopted 
 sister instead of his consort ; the only instance 
 in which she manifested opposition, being her 
 refusal to return to her native country after the 
 affront she had received; she never, therefore, 
 quitted England, but resided mostly at Hever 
 Castle, near Penshurst, in Kent, which Henry 
 granted to her for life, being an estate of the 
 Earl of Wiltshire''s, who dying without male 
 issue, the king claimed its possession in right of 
 
54 DUSSELDOllF. 
 
 his marriage with the unfortunate Anne Boleyn, 
 the earl's eldest daughter. But it appears that 
 the Lady Anne of Cleves had also a residence 
 at Chelsea, where she died, on the 16th of July, 
 1557, and on the 3rd of August was interred 
 with great solemnity, on the south side of the 
 choir in Westminster Abbey. 
 
 30th. Early in the morning we continued our 
 route ; the roads, as on the preceding day, being 
 over deep sand; and at five in the evening we 
 reached Dusseldorf, where we took our lodging at 
 the Breidenbach Hotel in the Allecstrasse. Dus- 
 seldorf has been a city of many reverses. After 
 the destruction of the Electoral Palace at Hei- 
 delberg, the elector Palatine established his court 
 here, which was one of the most splendid in 
 Germany, and the elector''s gallery of paintings 
 was an object of attraction to all the amateurs of 
 the art : but in an early period of the French 
 revolutionary war, the city was bombarded, the 
 pictures removed to Munich, and the gallery 
 and palace were partly laid in ruins, in which 
 state they now remain. The city is the capital 
 of the duchy of Berg, and as such has been 
 
DUSSELDORF. 55 
 
 successively the residence of the grand dukes, 
 Joachim Murat, and then Louis Napoleon, 
 eldest son of the ex-king of Holland. It is now 
 the seat of the Prussian regency : but the life 
 and revelries of a court are extinct ; and although 
 it possesses a magnificent public garden, and 
 many useful establishments, yet an indescribable 
 dullness pervades the whole, and the population 
 appear to have no more speculation in their looks 
 than so many moving automata ; a well-fiirnished 
 market, however, evidenced that the citizens 
 were inhabitants of the earth, and born to con- 
 sume its productions, " fruges consumers nati." 
 
 31st. Being Sunday, we spent the forenoon in 
 visiting the churches, and returned to dine at 
 the table d'hote at our hotel, which appeared 
 the rendezvous of the military officers, who, in 
 these piping times of peace, seemed to have con- 
 verted their swords, if not into pruning hooks, 
 at least into knives and forks ; under which meta- 
 morphosis they committed as much execution in 
 their warfare against the two-legged animals that 
 were winged, as ever they did as heroes against 
 their biped opponents that were whiskered. 
 
56 COLOGNE. 
 
 In the evening we walked in the Botanic Gar- 
 den, which is well arranged for the students ; 
 all the medicinal and rare plants have sticks by 
 them, with their names affixed ; also on pedestals 
 are placed the busts of Linnaeus and other emi- 
 nent botanists. 
 
 Sept. 1st. In the afternoon we left Dusseldorf, 
 and arrived between seven and eight in the even- 
 ing at Cologne, where we selected the Grossen 
 Rheinberg as our hotel ; it being in the neigh- 
 bourhood from whence the steam packet took its 
 departure, on board of which it was our inten- 
 tion to proceed up the Rhine. After we had 
 taken our tea, we sallied forth to purchase some 
 of the genuine eau de Cologne, which, having 
 effected, we returned, and almost immediately 
 retired to bed ; but scarcely were we in our first 
 sleep, when Dr. T. and I were alarmed by an 
 unusual noise in the street. I got out of bed, 
 and on going to the window, perceived it was 
 occasioned by a fire, which had broken out at a 
 house within three doors of us ; the immediate 
 contact of the premises was, however, inter- 
 rupted by a small alley which separated our hotel 
 
COLOGNE. 57 
 
 from the line of houses where the fire com- 
 menced. Fortunately we had a night lamp, which 
 afforded instant facility to our equipment; I 
 then went to rouse the ladies, whom I met half 
 vmdressed at their door. By this time all became 
 confusion, every bell to the numerous apartments 
 was in full ring, and the travellers were rushing 
 out of their respective chambers almost in a state 
 of nudity. We hastily packed up our clothes, and 
 descended the staircase, which, although wide, 
 was thronged like the outlets of a church after 
 the termination of the service. Our first place of 
 assembling was in a large covered coach yard, 
 by the side of the house ; we then went into the 
 street, with the hope of getting our portmanteaus 
 on board the steam vessel, but the avenues to 
 the quay were closed. We continued, therefore, 
 some time in the street, until the force of the 
 flames was subdued ; we then returned to the 
 hotel, and placed ourselves the remainder of the 
 night in the grand saloon. It was a fortunate 
 circumstance that the fire did not extend beyond 
 the house where it commenced, as it was conti- 
 guous to great warehouses which served as a 
 
58 COLOGNE. 
 
 depot for goods landed from the river ; for if the 
 conflagration had reached them, it might have 
 been the destruction of that quarter of the city : 
 as it was, the goods were partially injured, and 
 their safety was with great difficulty secured. 
 
 2d. At six in the morning we commenced our 
 voyage on the Rhine, the weather most propi- 
 tious, and the views delightful, while the adven- 
 tures of the past night of fire and apprehension 
 furnished abundant topic for conversation. Among 
 our company was the pastor of Neuwied ; in the 
 confusion he said he had been obliged to make 
 his toilet on the stairs, which, having completed, 
 he went and sat in the saloon, ready to start in 
 the event of the magazines taking fire. He was 
 a man whose countenance was indicative of sim- 
 plicity and benevolence, and when he quitted us 
 to land at Neuwied, we parted with more than 
 one hearty shake by the hand, while all the pas- 
 sengers crowded round to bid him farewell, and 
 as he reached the shore the eager salutations of 
 his flock evidenced how much their pastor was 
 an object of their respect and regard. In short, 
 a minister of the gospel acting up to the princi- 
 
COBLENTZ. 59 
 
 pies that he professes to teach, surrounded by 
 those who, from their earliest years, have looked 
 upon him with veneration, whose admonitions 
 have been tempered with the tenderness of a 
 parent, whose language has been that of encou- 
 ragement to the weak, and of soothing to the 
 broken hearted, and whose funds have been em- 
 ployed in the relief of the distressed, presents a 
 being inspired with that Divinity, whose mercy 
 and goodness, by his sacred calling, he is bound 
 to imitate. 
 
 At six in the evening we arrived at Coblentz, 
 the approach to which is particularly fine ; — the 
 great expanse of water formed by the confluence 
 of the Moselle with the Rhine ; the magnificent 
 fortress of Ehrenbreitstein towering to the skies, 
 and illuminated by the setting sun, with the 
 numerous towers and spires of the city of Co- 
 blentz, presented a grandeur of scenery seldom 
 surpassed. But here we began to experience 
 some of the inconveniences attached to travelling 
 by water. The steam packet takes many passengers 
 who are all anxious to obtain lodgings for the 
 night, so that the hotels are crowded near the 
 
60 COBLENTZ. 
 
 river, and the poor traveller in a strange country, 
 among a people talking to him, probably, in a 
 strange language, is exposed to every kind of 
 imposition, and as it is late in the evening before 
 the vessel arrives, it hardly admits of his main- 
 taining his independence by seeking for better 
 accommodation. On landing, we went first to 
 the Three Swiss, where we could not obtain 
 apartments to suit us, and were obliged, there- 
 fore, to go to the Trierischen Hof, (Hotel of 
 Treves,) which, although distant, was in every 
 other respect to be preferred, as many of our 
 companions told us when we got on board the 
 packet, that they regretted they had not followed 
 our example. 
 
 3d. We assembled, by appointment, at six in 
 the morning, the hour named for resuming our 
 navigation; but a dense fog, which lasted for 
 two hours, occasioned not only considerable de- 
 lay in the departure of the vessel, but also in its 
 progress when in motion ; at length the fog dis- 
 persed, and the banks of the river presented 
 scenery even more romantic than on the pre- 
 ceding day. On each side were steep mountains, 
 
MENTZ, OR MAYENCE. 61 
 
 covered almost to the summit with vineyards^ 
 and interspersed with numberless ruins of castles, 
 to each of which some legendary tale of love and 
 murder is attached ; in which sequestered dam- 
 sels, as it were, in very spite, are sure to become 
 enamoured at first sight with heroes, whom their 
 cross-grained fathers and mothers, and uncles 
 and aunts, are most determined they shall never 
 obtain. 
 
 On a small island, in the middle of the stream, 
 is the celebrated Mouse Tower, where tradition 
 relates that Hatton, second archbishop of Mentz^ 
 was devoured by rats, as a judgment for his 
 avarice and cruelty. The time we had lost in 
 the morning made it nine at night before we 
 arrived at Mentz, and again we had to contend 
 with those disagreeables I before alluded to, for 
 the Three Crowns, where we intended to take 
 up our abode, was too full to give us the requi-- 
 site number of beds, and it required all my per- 
 severance to extricate us from the dilemma of 
 Dr. T. and myself having to sleep on the floor, 
 with the additional misery of having the ladies 
 separated from us, amid a labyrinth of distant 
 
62 MENTZ^ OR MAYENCE. 
 
 rooms, with the terrors of the Cologne confla- 
 gration so recently on their minds. However, 
 notwithstanding the darkness of the night, and 
 the lateness of the hour, I obtained accommoda- 
 tion at the Romischen Kaiser, (the Roman Em- 
 peror,) to the great mortification of the landlord 
 of the Three Crowns. How short sighted are 
 we in our calculations ! The Three Crowns is, 
 perhaps, the most ancient establishment of its 
 kind in Europe ; it dates its origin so far back 
 as the year 1360, it had then for its sign der 
 Wilden Mann (the Savage) ; in I7IO the house 
 was rebuilt, since which it has been known as the 
 Three Crowns, maintaining, through five cen- 
 turies, all its original renown. I therefore 
 fondly anticipated much gratification in the idea 
 of sleeping under the roof of this inn of many 
 ages, weaving in my imagination the thousand 
 possible adventures of past times, and had I 
 been inspired by Chaucer''s Muse, might have 
 given the world another sample of the Canter- 
 bury Tales. 
 
 4th. We commenced as early as possible our 
 tour of the far-famed city of Mentz, or Mayence, 
 
MENTZ, OR MAYENCE. 63 
 
 which possesses numerous objects interesting to 
 the antiquary and traveller^ and vies with Haar- 
 lem and Strasburg in its claims of giving birth 
 to the inventor of the art of printing, the name 
 of John Fust, or Faust, being no less celebrated 
 than that of Lawrence Coster. We first visited 
 the cathedral, which, notwithstanding that it was 
 exposed to great hazard of destruction in the 
 various sieges of the city, particularly in the 
 early part of the French Revolution, when a 
 bomb penetrated the roof, and exploded within 
 its walls, yet still retains many traces of its 
 pristine grandeur, and divine service is regularly 
 performed at its altars ; and several monumental 
 statues of saints and heroes of olden times pre- 
 serve their footing on pedestals along its sombre 
 aisles. In the Museum is a beautiful model of 
 SL military bridge that Napoleon intended to con- 
 struct across the Rhine to Cassel, by means of 
 which the soldiers could traverse the river under 
 cover, so as to escape not only the attack, but 
 even the observation, of a besieging army. Hav- 
 ing finished our cursory survey, we hired a 
 carriage to convey us to Frankfort ; the greatest 
 
64 FRANKFORT. 
 
 part of the road was through a region of vine- 
 yards. As we approached this emporium of 
 Germany, we passed two lofty towers, a few 
 miles distant from each other, standing like giant 
 wardens amid the plains, to announce the com- 
 ing stranger. 
 
 At five in the afternoon, after a four hours' 
 ride, we reached the city, with many doubts as 
 to our fate, the great fair having just com- 
 menced. On our arrival at the Swan (Au Cygne), 
 they at once told us the house was full, but that 
 apartments at a private dwelling, which they had 
 engaged, were at our disposal ; and after having 
 inspected them, we gladly accepted the arrange- 
 ment, and were very comfortably lodged, having 
 a suit of three snug rooms on the first floor, 
 communicating with each other, and each also 
 with doors opening to the landing place, thus 
 making them either public or private apartments. 
 In the evening we strolled about the streets of 
 this superb city, where the hotels, owing to the 
 concourse of foreigners at the annual fairs, are 
 built on the scale of palaces, presenting a front- 
 age of a hundred windows, and furnished with 
 
FRANKFORT. 
 
 65 
 
 all the facilities of administering to the conve- 
 nience, and even luxury, of the multitude of 
 visiters. As we traversed the spacious streets, 
 we were highly deiighted with the gaiety of all 
 around us, for music and singing resounded in 
 every direction. 
 
 5th. We visited the ancient Stadt House, in 
 which is the Kaiser Saal, the hall where the elec- 
 tion of the German emperors takes place, and 
 the banquetting room, where, after the corona- 
 tion, the imperial feast is given. On which occa- 
 sion, in the square fronting the building, the 
 fountain flows with wine, and from the window 
 at which the newly elected emperor presents 
 himself, medals and coins are thrown to the po- 
 pulace. Here also is kept one of the three ori- 
 ginals of the famous Golden Bull, the charter 
 which prescribes the form of election. We next 
 went to St. Bartholomew's church, to which the 
 elected emperor is conducted, to be crowned by 
 the elector of Mentz. It is situated in the old- 
 est and worst built part of the city ; and although 
 it would be hardly fair to say that it has become, 
 like the Temple of Jerusalem, " a den of thieves,"" 
 
 F 
 
66 FRAKKFORT. 
 
 yet it is certain that its eastern end is wholly 
 surrounded with butchers'' shambles ; and as this 
 quarter is mostly inhabited by descendants of the 
 children of Israel, these shambles are of the dir- 
 tiest description. In our walks this afternoon we 
 met the celebrated Rothschild, who has an esta* 
 blishment here. We likewise learned that, not- 
 withstanding all the gaiety that prevailed in the 
 streets, the annual fair languished under the 
 fiscal impositions of the Prussian government, 
 and that a meeting was held on the opposite 
 shore of the Mayn, to make representations to 
 the allied sovereigns, soliciting their interven- 
 tion to preserve the interests of the merchants. 
 
 6th. We directed our course in the morning 
 along the banks of the Mayn, to view the mag- 
 nificent range of buildings facing the river, and 
 at twelve at noon took our places in the Diligence 
 to Heidelberg and Manheim. Among our 
 fellow-passengers was a young man in the tra* 
 veiling costume of this part of Germany, namely, 
 a blue smock frock similar to those worn by our 
 journeymen butchers, a covering extremely use- 
 ful on these dusty roads, but which makes the 
 
FRANKFOKT. &J 
 
 gentleman scarcely distinguishable from the clown. 
 We, however, found that our young friend was 
 any thing but a clown in behaviour, his efforts 
 being directed to entertain and oblige us to the 
 utmost of his ability ; yet, in spite of the smiles 
 that played on his lips, I noticed that a sigh 
 would occasionally escape from his breast, and 
 he confessed that his mercantile transactions at 
 the fair had disappointed his hopes ; and as no- 
 thing unites individuals so much as reciprocity 
 of feeling, so the relation of his misfortunes ren- 
 dered him an object of still greater interest ; for 
 who has not felt the pressure of affliction ? In 
 fact, a man unacquainted with suffering is des- 
 titute of humanity ; for it is the kindred feelings 
 of disappointed hopes, and oft experienced an- 
 guish, which vibrate in our own bosoms at the 
 recital of another'^s woe, and awaken all the wor- 
 thiest sensibilities of our nature. And this is a 
 principle acknowledged and interwoven in the 
 very texture of our religion ; the Divine Au- 
 thor of our salvation being described as a " man 
 of sorrows and acquainted with grief." 
 
 On entering the territories of Hesse Darmstadt 
 
 'f2 
 
68 HEIDELBERG MA>3HEIM. 
 
 our luggage underwent a severe examination, but 
 we met with no other interruption. It was, how- 
 ever, quite night before we got to Heidelberg, 
 where we alighted at the King of Portugal Ho- 
 tel. After we had supped, our entertaining com- 
 panion took his leave in the kindest manner, he 
 having to travel through the remainder of the 
 night on his way to join his relations in Switzer- 
 land. 
 
 7tlL Early in the morning we departed for Man- 
 heim, at which place we arrived at seven o'^clock, 
 and took our quarters at the Three Kings, where 
 we breakfasted, and I then went to pay my respects 
 to my friend A — — , and to obtain from him in- 
 formation to assist our further operations. He 
 took upon himself to be our cicerone through his 
 native city, and we accompanied him to the Jesuits'* 
 Church, one of the richest of the order, and from 
 the Church to the Observatory, from whence we 
 had a most extensive prospect ; and here, while 
 contemplating the range of country on the left 
 bank of the Rhine, which had for some years, 
 and until the expulsion of Napoleon, formed the 
 boundaries of the French empire, I learned. 
 
MANHEIM. 69 
 
 with astonishment, that the inhabitants atdently 
 desire to be reincorporated under the dominion 
 of France, a desire arising, in all probability, 
 from the vexatious impositions to which they are 
 exposed under their present rulers, added to that 
 perpetual love of change which seems inherent in 
 mankind, ever dissatisfied with the present, and 
 looking forward to promised enjoyment, verifying 
 the language of Pope, 
 
 " Man never is, but always to be blest" 
 We then took a survey of the exterior of the 
 Grand Duke's Palace, a vast structure, but 
 mournful as the Mausoleums of the Pharaohs, if 
 such be the designation of the Pyramids of the 
 Desert* About one-third of the building is in 
 ruins, in the state it was left after the bombard- 
 ment of the city by the French ; and it is con- 
 sidered as a miracle that, although the palace 
 had been abandoned for a length of time to the 
 fury of the flames, their progress was arrested 
 on their approach to the chapel, where, without 
 the aid of man, the fire was extinguished. Had 
 this occurred to a Protestant temple, our good 
 old ladies would have had no doubts upon the 
 
70 MANHKIM. 
 
 subject ; but as the establishment was Catholic, 
 I dare not assert that the cause was supernatural. 
 We now seated ourselves in a carriage, and were 
 driven to the Gardens of Schwetzingen. As we 
 passed the city barriers, my friend pointed to a 
 meadow on the left of us, where the wild enthu- 
 siast Sandt was beheaded for having assassinated 
 the pensioned Kotzebue, who prostituted his fine 
 talents in defaming the German character, and 
 acted as a spy to betray to Alexander his coun- 
 trymen's secret aspirations for liberty. 
 
 Charles Sandt was a student at Jena, and son of 
 a counsellor of justice at Wunsiedel. This fanatic 
 presented himself about five o'clock in the even- 
 ing of the 3rd of March, 1819, at Kotzebue's resi- 
 dence at Manheim, and having gained admit- 
 tance, immediately, on being left alone with Kot- 
 zebue, stabbed him to the heart with a poniard, 
 after which, in the presence of those who had 
 rushed towards the room on the alarm being 
 given, the assassin rose up with a composed air, 
 and flourishing the bloody poniard, descended 
 the door-steps exclaiming, " The traitor is dead ! 
 The country is saved ! Long live Germany ! '' On 
 
MANHEIM^ 71 
 
 being surrounded by the crowd that had assem- 
 bled in front of the house, he cast a wild look 
 towards them, and lifting up the poniard with 
 one hand and a piece of paper in the other, ex- 
 claimed, " Yes ! I am the murderer ! It is thus 
 that all traitors ought to perish ! " On the paper 
 was written, '^ The death blow of Augustus von 
 Kotzebue in the name of Virtue."" He then 
 knelt down amidst the assemblage, and raising 
 his hands and eyes to heaven, said, " God ! I 
 thank Thee for having permitted me to accom- 
 plish this act!"" After this he plunged the 
 poniard to his heart, and fell without any signs 
 of life. Having recovered the use of his senses 
 in the hospital to which he was conveyed, he 
 only spoke of the assassination with a kind of 
 ecstasy, " He is dead then !— That Russian 
 spy ! '^ Sandt remained for fifteen months in 
 the hospital, where his life was preserved by 
 the most strengthening regimen, and every effort 
 made to prevent his sinking under the effects of 
 the wounds which he had inflicted on himself. 
 At length, being so far recovered as to undergo 
 the punishment due to his crime, he was, at five 
 
72 MANHEIM. 
 
 o'clock in the morning of the 20th of May, 1820, 
 executed agreeably to his sentence. So early as 
 half-past three, the infantry and cavalry, and 
 almost the whole population of Manheim, were in 
 motion. Sandt was brought from the prison in 
 an open carriage. His countenance, which was 
 very pale, had in it great expression, a smile was 
 on his lips, and he went to meet death as he 
 should go to a fete. He bowed with much grace 
 to some ladies at a window, and who returned 
 his salute with very evident marks of interest. 
 When he reached the place of execution he 
 mounted the scaffold immediately, supported on 
 the shoulders of two assistants, his bodily powers 
 being so weak, which made the intrepidity he 
 displayed the more extraordinary. His sentence 
 was then read to him, after which he made a 
 short address, speaking with energy, and at its 
 termination raised one of his hands to heaven, 
 exclaiming that he " died for his country ! *" He 
 did not accept the assistance of a minister of re- 
 ligion. He was dressed in the German costume, 
 with a black great-coat, his shirt collar turned 
 down, and his hair in ringlets on his shoul- 
 
MANHEIM. 73 
 
 ders. The executioner took hold of him and 
 made him sit down on a chair fastened to a small 
 post ; he tied his hands, cut off some of his hair, 
 and put a bandage over his eyes. In two minutes 
 after, he was no more. He was beheaded with a 
 sabre, and the executioner being obliged to make 
 a second stroke, a general cry arose. A great 
 number of students from Heidelberg, who tra- 
 velled with all speed to be present at the execu- 
 tion, only arrived at the moment when the exe- 
 cutioner was exhibiting the severed head. Several 
 steeped their handkerchiefs in his blood. 
 
 Thus justly died, amid the commiseration of the 
 students and the multitude, this deluded victim 
 of a heated imagination. Ardent and undaunted, 
 he sought to avenge what he conceived to be his 
 country ''s wrongs ; but pursued his object by 
 means the most abhorrent, for hardly any circum- 
 stance can sanction assassination. Even Marcus 
 Brutus, on the Ides of March, with his blood- 
 stained dagger, appears to me as a monster of 
 treachery and ingratitude, for I cannot help be- 
 lieving that the liberties of Rome were destroyed, 
 rather by the luxurv of the Romans and the 
 
74 MANHEIM. 
 
 base degeneracy of the senate, than by the am- 
 bition of Caesar. 
 
 Not far from the meadow where Sandt was 
 executed, is a house of entertainment called the 
 Kaiser Stuhl, (the emperor's seat,) from the fol- 
 lowing circumstance : Joseph the Second was 
 accustomed to travel incognito, and with few at- 
 tendants. In this style he visited the elector at 
 Manheim, but arriving late in the evening, the 
 gates of the city were shut, and the emperor was 
 obliged to procure lodgings at a dwelling, on the 
 site of which the Kaiser Stuhl is now built. 
 The host, though unacquainted with the rank of 
 his visitor, paid him so much attention that Jo- 
 seph, to express his satisfaction, gave him a 
 written promise, observing that the house was so 
 situated, that in the event of hostilities it would 
 most likely be destroyed, that in case such a ca- 
 lamity should be occasioned by the Austrian ar- 
 mies, on peace being restored, the house should 
 be rebuilt at the expense of the emperor or of his 
 successors. It so happened, that during the war 
 which led to the overthrow of Buonaparte this 
 house was destroyed, and after the peace, the 
 
MANHEIM. 75 
 
 Emperor Francis being at Manheim, the pro- 
 prietor presented his claims; his plea was ad- 
 mitted, and promise of restitution made. But, as 
 much delay occurred, and the application was 
 several times renewed without success, he was 
 advised to pursue his object by going to Vienna, 
 and to obtain a personal interview with the em- 
 peror. This was done, and Francis graciously 
 forwarded his suit, and the Kaiser Stuhl was 
 erected accordingly, a monument which redounds 
 to the credit of all the parties concerned. 
 
 After a pleasant ride, we alighted at the Gar- 
 dens of Schwetzingen, which constitute a sort of 
 German Paradise, and certainly, in elegant va- 
 riety of embellishment, may be considered un- 
 rivalled. The palace attached to them is simply 
 a hunting seat ; before the garden front of which, 
 is a wide parterre, disposed in the French 
 style, adorned with five fountains. Taking a 
 direction to the right, we passed several beauti- 
 ful temples until we came to that of Apollo, 
 erected on a mount, from whence a cascade flows 
 over a succession of rocks, and then forms a 
 running »stream at the foot of this new Parnassus. 
 
76 MANHEIM. 
 
 We then visited the Baths, which combine uti- 
 lity with ornament. Our attention was next 
 transferred to the jet dVau of the spouting birds, 
 who direct the fury of their streams against an 
 owl placed in the middle of an oval of flowering 
 shrubs, around which these mischievous inmates 
 of the grove are stationed, and so sudden and 
 unexpected is the sprinkling they diffuse, that 
 the unwary spectator stands a good chance of 
 partaking of their watery sports. This portion 
 of the grounds has also the English garden, and 
 a large sheet of water, abounding with silver 
 swans, gliding on the liquid element in all the 
 majesty of comeliness, while, through vistas in 
 the opening glades, rich and extensive views are 
 repeatedly presented. From hence, we bent our 
 way to the left, passing the imitation of a Roman 
 aqueduct, and the artificial ruins of the temple 
 of Mercury. We then arrived at one of the 
 most interesting of the buildings, an exact model, 
 on a reduced scale, of a Turkish mosque ; as we 
 crossed the threshold of this sacred edifice, we 
 were impressed with the chaste simplicity of its 
 structure. The whole of the ground floor is 
 
MANHEIM. 77 
 
 paved with marble inlaid, and the panels of the 
 walls are stuccoed, having transcripts, in golden 
 letters, of moral sentences from the Alcoran, in- 
 scribed in Arabic characters, with translations 
 in German, conveying instruction not unworthy 
 of Christian observance. I have, therefore, at- 
 tempted to give them in an English version, the 
 which, accompanied with the German, is ar- 
 ranged and numbered as the sentences appear in 
 the German copy of the description of the 
 Schwetzingen Gardens. 
 
 On the wall, outside the fore-court. 
 
 No. 1. In den sommertagen sey der ameise gleich. — In 
 summer imitate the ants. 
 
 No. 2. Wegen der rose begiesst man die dornen. — For 
 the sake of the rose man waters the thorns. 
 
 On the wall within the fore-court. 
 
 No. 3. Einsamkeit ist besser ais bdse gesellschaft. — So- 
 litude is better than evil society. 
 
 No. 4. Reden ist silber, schweigen gold. — Speech is 
 silver, silence gold. 
 
 • No. 5. Ein laster des weisen gilt flir tausend. — One 
 crime of the wise is accounted for a thousand. 
 
 No. 6. Wechsel in der freundschaft bringt verderben. — 
 Change in friendship bringeth ruin. 
 
78 MANHEIM. 
 
 Within the mosque. 
 
 No. 7. Der thor hat das herz in miinde; der weise 
 die zung' im herzen. — The fool hath his heart in his 
 mouth ; the wise, the tongue in his heart. 
 
 No. 8. Wissenschaft ist eine krone, verstand eine gol- 
 dene halszierde. — Wisdom is a crown, understanding a 
 necklace of gold. 
 
 No. 9. Reichthum und die welt vergehen, gute hand- 
 lungen bleiben ewig. — Riches and the world pass away; 
 rectitude endureth for ever. 
 
 No. 10. Erwirb dir gold so viel du brauchst, und 
 weisheit so viel du kannst. — Acquire gold for thy neces- 
 sities, but wisdom as much as thou canst. 
 
 Within the cupola. 
 
 No. 11. Der thor halt warnung fiir feindschaft. — The 
 fool mistaketh admonition for enmity. 
 
 No. 12. Wer alles begehrt, gehet leer aus. — He who 
 desireth all, goeth empty away. 
 
 No. 13. Der neid ruhet niemals. — Envy hath no re- 
 pose. 
 
 No. 14. — Ohne hoiFnung gelingt kein werk.- - Without 
 hope no work prospers. 
 
 No. 15. Fliehe die faulheit, sie bringt schaden.— Shun 
 idleness, it bringeth shame. 
 
 No. 16. Hore den rath des klugen. — Hearken to the 
 counsel of the prudent. 
 
MANHEIM. 79 
 
 No. 17. Versehwiegenheit erwirbt liebe. — Silence ac- 
 quires love. 
 
 No. 18. Liebe den fleiss, er ist ein grosser schatz.— 
 Love industry, it is a great treasure. 
 
 Over the portal. 
 No. 19. Er ist nur ein einziger wahrer Gott. — There is 
 only one true God. 
 
 On each side of the same. 
 
 No. 20. Lobe den Herrn deinen Gott, und bitte ihn 
 um verzeihung deiner sunde, denn er ist gnadig. — Praise 
 the Lord thy God, and pray to Him to forgive thee thy 
 sins, for He is gracious. 
 
 No. 21. Gebet almosen vor der ankunft des todes. — 
 Give alms before the arrival of death. 
 
 No. 22. Dir seiLob, O Gott ! und rait deinen Lobe sei 
 dein name gebenedeiet, weil ausser dir kein anderer Gott 
 ist. — Praise be to thee, O God ! and with thy praises may 
 thy name be blessed ! for besides Thee there is none 
 other God. 
 
 No. 23, Gott ist ein einzeger, allmachtiger, nicht ge- 
 bohren, und hat seines gleichen nicht. — God is one, al- 
 mighty, uncreated, and without similitude. 
 
 From the interior of the mosque there is a 
 small staircase which leads to two latticed cabi- 
 nets, (like boxes in a theatre,) placed on the op- 
 
80 MANHEIM. — HEIDELBERG. 
 
 posite sides of the cupola where the mufti sit and 
 survey the assembled devotees beneath. Here 
 Dr. T^ and I left the ladies, and then as- 
 cended one of the minarets, and were highly 
 gratified with the beautiful prospect it afforded. 
 Having rejoined our company, we departed 
 through the arabesque colonnade which extends 
 on each side of the principal entrance. We now 
 pursued our way to the inn in the village, where 
 our kind friend had provided a handsome dinner. 
 After dining we drove to Heidelberg, which we 
 had left in the morning with many a wistful look 
 at its castle, and which had we quitted Germany 
 without having seen, would have been a subject 
 of lasting regret. After we had alighted from the 
 carriage, we paced on foot the winding ascent to 
 what I imagine had been the barbican of this 
 castellated palace ; we then traversed the outer 
 ballium, (or space between the outer and the in- 
 ner walls.) On our left hand was a wide and 
 deep ditch, in front of a line of walls and towers, 
 one of which had been mined by gunpowder ; the 
 explosion had rent the tower in two without 
 having shivered it. The one half standing up- 
 
HEIDELBERG. 
 
 81 
 
 right on its foundations, and the other half lean- 
 ing over the ditch, one entire mass, all the ma- 
 terials of stone and mortar being consolidated 
 together, presenting an object as surprising as 
 the Leaning Tower at Pisa. Beyond the build- 
 ings, we arrived at a terrace in the gardens of 
 the castle, commanding a prospect that might 
 win an angel to contemplate. Beneath, was seen 
 the city of Heidelberg, with its bridge over the 
 Neckar, decorated on each side with statues ; — 
 to the right, a range of mountains covered with 
 vineyards ; — to the left an interminable plain, 
 richly cultivated, and studded with towns ; while 
 through the centre, meandered the Neckar, and 
 completed the landscape. The gardens were 
 crowded with students, those far-famed college 
 Burschen, the untamed sons of wild desires, who 
 were flitting about like perturbed spirits, and be- 
 guiling the wandering nymphs who listened to 
 their addresses. Descending from this terrestrial 
 Elysium, we passed the gate flanked with towers, 
 into the inner ballium, when the grand portal of 
 the castle presented itself, before which were 
 placed two colossal figures ; nevertheless, we ad- 
 
 G 
 
82 HEIDELBERG. 
 
 vanced unawed, and in spite of magic spells, 
 crossed the Hall of the Knights, which led to a 
 lower terrace, along the front of which was an 
 elegant balustrade, the terrace itself being placed 
 before the principal apartments of the castle, 
 the fa9ade of which was adorned with statues, 
 surmounting the top of the building, and also 
 along each of its stories. Never had I before 
 beheld anything so truly picturesque; it was all 
 enchantment, and required a pinch to question 
 our flesh, whether the scenery were real or one of 
 exalted imagination revelling in poetic dreams 
 of ancient chivalry. 
 
 From hence, after some delay in seeking for 
 the cellarman, we visited the famous Tun, which 
 was filled with wine, for the last time, in I78I. 
 On such occasions, a dance was given in a gal- 
 lery on its top. We had but just time to con- 
 clude our survey before the setting sun had 
 thrown the veil of obscurity over this realm of 
 romance. 
 
 We now proceeded to the Carlsberg Hotel, 
 where our indefatigable friend A had or- 
 dered tea, without which, he considered an 
 
MANHEIM. 83 
 
 Englishman would reckon the refreshments of 
 the day incomplete. 
 
 It was ten o'clock at night before we got back 
 again to Manheim. This city has many attractions 
 for persons of moderate fortunes ; it is situated 
 in a plentiful country, where all the necessaries 
 of life are cheap, and in the easy communication 
 with several capitals resorted to for commerce 
 or pleasure. The society is also good, and the 
 duchess dowager of Baden keeps her court here, 
 diffusing every charm that highly cultivated 
 talents and unaffected manners can impart, to 
 those whose rank entitle them to have access to 
 her coteries. This amiable woman was Ste- 
 phanie Louise, a daughter of count Beauharnais, 
 and was married on the 7th of April, 1806, to 
 the late grand duke of Baden, who, to comply 
 with the ambitious views of Napoleon^ took her 
 as a bride, but never gave her his affections, for 
 the duke being a descendant of one of the most 
 ancient families in Europe, disdained an alliance 
 with one whose pedigree, though noble, could 
 not boast the enumeration of a line of princely 
 progenitors. In December, 1818, she became 
 
 g2 
 
84 MANHEIM. 
 
 his widow ; yet notwithstanding that the grand 
 duchess lived neglected as a wife, and was left a 
 widow in the bloom of life, and in the midst of 
 admirers, she is still universally esteemed, nor 
 has the breath of slander ever sullied her good 
 fame. In short, there appears to be something 
 peculiarly beneficent and dignified attached to 
 the whole of the Beauharnais. Eminently 
 placed as they were, they seem to have been se- 
 lected to mitigate the horrors of revolution, and 
 to administer consolation to those who were cast 
 down during the period of those political convul- 
 sions which shook kingdoms, and principalities, 
 and powers, to their foundations. 
 
 It must not be omitted, that among the other 
 residents, is the count Leon, the acknowledged 
 natural son of Napoleon, by the countess of 
 
 N , and as such, his name is placed on the 
 
 Grand Book of France, with a suitable pension. 
 He had just attained his majority ; in his early 
 youth he had been a little wild, which his good 
 understanding has corrected; he is exceedingly 
 studious, reserved, and thoughtful, but no less 
 pplite and attentive when he is brought in con- 
 
MAKHKIM. 85 
 
 tact, and has to display the amenities of society. 
 His resemblance to Buonaparte is considered as 
 remarkably striking, indeed so much so, that 
 during his residence at Paris, while casually 
 visiting the Hotel des Invalides, he was thus 
 accosted by an old veteran, who had steadfastly 
 eyed him : — " Mon brave jeune homme, excusez 
 un vieux soldat — mais il faut que vous soyez ou 
 le fils de I'empereur, ou le fils du diable.'*'' ^^ My 
 brave youth, excuse an old soldier — but you must 
 either be the emperor^s son, or the son of the 
 devil.""' The count laughed at his blunt saluta- 
 tion, and gave him some drink money. This 
 anecdote came to the knowledge of the Bourbons, 
 who were not so well pleased with such recol- 
 lections, and therefore preferred that Count Leon 
 should reside in some foreign state, and he quit- 
 ted Paris accordingly. 
 
 8th. As soon as we had taken an early break- 
 fast, a carriage was in readiness, by appointment, 
 to convey us in three days to Metz, we having 
 given up our intention of going to Strasbourg, 
 in consequence of the French king being there, 
 and the expectation that the great proportion of 
 
fflK DURCHHEIM. 
 
 the population of the adjoining departments 
 would also be present, as festivities of all de- 
 scriptions were in preparation, in honour of the 
 event ; we therefore declined the chance of en- 
 countering much inconvenience, from the city 
 being over crowded. 
 
 Our sortie from Manheim was somewhat im- 
 peded by a multitude of pilgrims and devotees, 
 which rendered the passage of the bridge over 
 the Rhine impassable until they had all gone 
 over. Some were carrying banners, others sing- 
 ing hymns, while many had a store of provisions, 
 intending to make their repast in the meadows 
 surrounding Oggersheim, where the sainted vir- 
 gin, whose name I have forgotten, had her effi- 
 gies, and performed her miracles. 
 
 We dined at Durchheim, where the accommo- 
 dation was excellent ; there is likewise a lodging 
 house kept by the landlord of the inn, and which 
 is admirably adapted to a private family who 
 wish to make a few months'* residence in this 
 part of the continent. We proceeded from 
 hence to Kairserslautern, and passed the night 
 there, at the Donnersberg Inn. 
 
SAAEBRUCK — -FORBACH. 87 
 
 9th. We resumed our journey, and dined at 
 Homburg. Our coachman told us we should 
 sleep at Forbach, but by the time we had ar- 
 rived at Saarbruck, the horses were sufficiently 
 exhausted, and we stopped there for the night, 
 with many misgivings that our four-legged ani- 
 mals would not be equal to carry us to Metz the 
 following evening. 
 
 10th. We left Saarbruck on the 10th at an 
 early hour, the upper town of which appears to 
 have been magnificent. On our arrival at For- 
 bach, the frontier town of the French territories, 
 our luggage underwent a visitation ; but to the 
 honour of the officers, with that discrimination 
 that whilst they performed their duty, it was evi- 
 dently not their wish to annoy, and we were de- 
 tained as short a time as the service would ad- 
 mit, which was, I suspect, rather to the disap- 
 pointment of the comptroller of our steeds, who, 
 if he could have had any feasible apology for 
 breaking the contract, would, I am persuaded, 
 have taken the opportunity of fleecing us. At a 
 small inn on the road, between St. Avoid and 
 Foligny, we dined, which, notwithstanding its 
 
B8 METZ. 
 
 rude and unpromising aj^pearance, afforded far 
 from despicable entertainment ; but it now re- 
 quired all my importunity to induce our driver 
 to proceed, who, at every station, seemed more 
 inclined to linger. As we approached Metz, 
 the sky became charged with menacing clouds, 
 the horizon was illumined with repeated and vi- 
 vid flashes of lightning, and loud peals of dis- 
 tant thunder rolled at intervals, with occasional 
 drops of rain, making circles large as half-crowns. 
 In the mean time, our carriage was ill provided 
 to contend with a storm, and we had the double 
 apprehension of being drenched with rain and 
 excluded the city, the gates of which are shut at 
 eight in the evening. We were lucky enough to 
 escape both, for we had but the skirtings of a 
 shower, and reached the ramparts about a quar- 
 ter of an hour before the closing of the gates, al- 
 though it began to be quite dark, and our sch wager 
 had to enquire for the German entrance, as it 
 was among his countrymen (he being unac- 
 quainted with the French language) that we had 
 to take our lodgings for the night. This hotel 
 was the Loup, a house that appeared to have 
 
^lETz. 89: 
 
 been erected in the days of Charlemagne. An 
 ancient oaken staircase led us to a gallery, from 
 whence we overlooked the kitchen with an enor- 
 mous chimney, under which a whole family 
 might assemble. Metz is a city of remote anti- 
 quity, and in the Roman ages had its nauma- 
 chia, to supply which an aqueduct was construct- 
 ed during the consulate of Drusus to convey the 
 waters from Gorse, which were esteemed for 
 their purity and lightness. 
 
 11th. We visited the magnificent Gothic ca- 
 thedral ; and as I sat contemplating the repre- 
 sentations of saints and kings depicted on its ce- 
 lebrated painted windows, I could not help re- 
 flecting how many generations must have disap- 
 peared who once gazed as I did at those tinted 
 media of transmitting light and imagery ; gene- 
 rations that had undergone all the changes from 
 youth to manhood, and from manhood to decre- 
 pitude and death : and although the Latin adage, 
 " tempora mutantur, et nos mutamur in illis" — 
 " the times are changed, and. we are changed in 
 them,'^ may be recited by every school-boy ; it is 
 only by those who have passed the meridian of 
 
90 METZ. 
 
 life that the "nos mutamur**' can be duly felt, who 
 are conscious of the mutations they are daily un- 
 dergoing, and feel that these are preparatory to 
 their throwing off the exuviae of mortality. 
 
 Not being altogether satisfied with the slow 
 mode of travelling in a hired carriage with a pair 
 of horses, we determined to proceed to Chalons 
 sur Marne by the Diligence, and at four in the 
 afternoon left Metz by that conveyance. Pre- 
 vious to which, in perambulating the streets, we 
 bought a box of Mirabelles de Metz, a sort of 
 preserve, for which this city has a reputation un- 
 equalled. We travelled all the night ; but in the 
 darkest period of our course, wide from every 
 possible assistance, our heavy machine stuck fast 
 in a deep rut ; the whole of the passengers, save 
 those in the coupe, were compelled to alight, and 
 after nearly an hour's delay, with many efforts, 
 at length by a long pull, a strong pull, and a 
 pull altogether, the Diligence was extricated. 
 But whatever might have happened, the inmates 
 in the coupe, of which I was one, could not have 
 escaped ; for as these carriages only open on one 
 side, and as that was the side on which the ve- 
 
CHALONS SUR MARNE. PARIS. 91 
 
 hide was thrown, the wheel came against the 
 door, and rendered all egress impracticable. 
 
 12th. At three in the afternoon of the 12th 
 we were set down at the hotel La Ville de Nancy 
 at Chalons sur Marne, where, having dined, we 
 commenced our accustomed tour of the city, 
 which did not quite equal my expectations. In 
 fact, it appears greatly the worse for wear, 
 which I have observed, in my traversing the 
 French empire in various directions, to be the 
 case with most of their cities. The houses have 
 not that smirking air which, by perpetual white- 
 washings and paintings, our primitive dwellings 
 present even in the most ancient of our towns. 
 The first resembles an old beau in the faded dra- 
 pery of worn-out nobility, whilst the other looks 
 smug as a patriarch in the garb of a quaker. 
 
 13th. At nine in the morning we again placed 
 ourselves for a day and a night in the Diligence, 
 and at seven in the morning of the 14th were 
 driven into the court-yard of the Messageries^ 
 Royales, Rue Notre Dame des Victoires at 
 Paris. 
 
 14th. On our arrival at the Barrieres, an officer 
 
92 PARIS. 
 
 of the customs mounted the Diligence, and accom- 
 panied us to the Messagerie ; but the visitation of 
 our goods and chattels occasioned us no trouble, 
 and, without further delay, we went to the Hotel 
 Lillois in the Rue Richelieu, where we engaged 
 our lodgings during our stay in the French ca- 
 pital. Our journey from Metz had been one of 
 little interest, with the exception of a few histo- 
 rical recollections as we passed in the neighbour- 
 hood of Varennes, where the unfortunate Louis 
 XVI. was detained by Drouet, the famous post- 
 master of St. Menehould ; and at Montmirail, 
 and the line of road to Paris, which in 1814 had 
 been the theatre of many sanguinary conflicts 
 during the progress of the allies, that ended in 
 the treaty of Fontainebleau and the exile of Buo- 
 naparte to Elba. 
 
 Monday the 15th. Having in part recovered 
 from the effects of the cramps and pains arising 
 from our long confinement in the treble bodied 
 conveyances that brought us to the banks of the 
 Seine, we engaged a fiacre and drove to Pere la 
 Chaise, " that great garden of human vanity, 
 where, amid chaplets and flowers, the conqueror 
 
PARIS. 93 
 
 and the conquered, the saint and the sinner, are 
 indiscriminately laid, while their mortal remains 
 are silently returning to that element, out of 
 which as living bodies their transitory frames 
 were modelled. Among these sepulchral memo- 
 randa, exhibiting the mutability of Fortune, is a 
 humble stone, with an inscription in ill spelt 
 English, to the late William Chinnery, Esq. 
 whom the last time I saw was at the Treasury 
 Chambers, in full possession of active health 
 and envied prosperity, and from me he flew to 
 receive the salutation of a nobleman ! 
 
 Tuesday the 16th. We took advantage of the 
 weather being favourable, and went to Versailles. 
 Of this splendid monument of Louis the Four- 
 teenth'^s magnificence it is unnecessary to give any 
 description, the details forming materials for 
 every itinerary. We also saw the Grand and the 
 Petit Trianon as we crossed the park, to which 
 the military band were rehearsing their martial 
 airs ; and the horns and bugles echoing among 
 the thickets of the wood had a fine effect. 
 
 Wednesday the l7th. In the forenoon we 
 took our ride across the Place de Greve to the 
 
94 PARIS. 
 
 Hotel de Ville. It was here that the Commune 
 of Paris held tlieir sittings, and where Robes- 
 pierre was arrested. The canoneers, on hearing 
 of the decree of the Convention of " hors la loi" 
 against Robespierre and his coadjutors, aban- 
 doned the cannon which had been brought out to 
 defend the Commune ; and the carriages of the 
 artillery served as ladders to enable the multi- 
 tude to ascend to the windows of the Hotel de 
 Ville, and enjoy the spectacle of the confusion of 
 their fallen tyrants. We were shewn the room 
 where Robespierre was found; he had armed 
 himself with a knife for self-destruction, but had 
 not the courage to use it. A gen-d'arme fired at 
 him with a pistol, which broke his jaw-bone, and 
 he fell without uttering a word. His brother 
 threw himself out of a window, and broke his 
 thigh by his fall. Coifinhal, a judge of the re- 
 volutionary tribunal, when he saw that all was 
 lost, poured forth the bitterest invectives against 
 Henriot, the commander of the military force, 
 for having deceived them ; and at length seizing 
 him in a fit of rage and despair, threw him out 
 pf a window. Henriot concealed himself a short 
 
PARIS. 95 
 
 time in a common sewer, from whence he was 
 dragged, after having lost an eye. These cri- 
 minals, with their accomplices, were brought, 
 some on biers and others on foot, to the Con- 
 vention, from whence they were all sent to the 
 Conciergerie, except Robespierre, who was car- 
 ried into the ante-chamber of the Committee of 
 Public Safety, where he lay stretched motion- 
 less on a table, four hours, with his head bound 
 up, and his eyes shut, making no answers to the 
 taunting questions that were put to him, but 
 pinching his thighs with convulsive agony, and 
 sometimes looking round when he imagined no 
 one near. He underwent the operation of dress- 
 ing his wounds, after which he was sent, with 
 the rest of his associates, to the tribunal. The 
 identification of their persons was all that was 
 necessary, since they were hors la loi (outlawed), 
 and the sentence of execution against them was 
 demanded by their former friend, Fouquier 
 Tainville, 
 
 On the evening of the 10th Thermidor, (the 
 28th of July, 1794,) these criminals were 
 led to the scaffold. The frantic joy which the 
 
96 PARIS. 
 
 Parisians discovered on this occasion, was equal 
 to the pusillanimous stupor into which they had 
 been hitherto plunged. 
 
 Miss Williams, in her letters, gives many re- 
 lations illustrating the paralysing effects of the 
 -reign of terror, and the ingenious devices re- 
 sorted to for communicating information and con- 
 solation, even in the gloomiest periods of the re- 
 volutionary horrors. For example : it was per- 
 mitted that the relations of the unfortunate in- 
 mates of the prisons might, on returning their 
 linen which had been washed, write in a few 
 words, on the cover of the parcel, the state of 
 their health. The wife of an officer, who was 
 confined in the prison of the Abbaye, used, on 
 such occasions, to write to her husband, *"' je me 
 porte bien ; '' the day Robespierre fell, she wrote 
 " que je me porte bien ! "' The addition conveyed 
 transport, for he fully comprehended that some- 
 thing very important and exhilirating was com- 
 municated by the added monosyllable, and the 
 note of admiration. During many hours, the fall 
 of the tyrant was repeated with cautious timidity, 
 through the dreary mansions of confinement, 
 
PARIS. 97 
 
 and the prisoners related to each other the event- 
 ful tale, as if they feared that 
 
 " More than echoes talked along the walls." 
 
 Even the minds of those who were at liberty, 
 were too strongly fettered by terror to bear the 
 sudden expansion of joy ; and Miss Williams 
 adds, that the gentleman who first brought the 
 tidings to her family that Robespierre was ar- 
 rested, after being blamed for his imprudence in 
 mentioning such a circumstance before some 
 strangers who were present, said in a tone of re- 
 sentment, '^ This is the fourth family which I 
 have endeavoured to make happy by this news ; 
 and instead of being thanked for the intelligence, 
 all are afraid to hear it.'*'' 
 
 As if it were intended that the Hotel de Ville 
 should ever be devoted to revolutionary recol- 
 lections, the ceiling of the ball-room is decorated 
 with painted compartments, representing the 
 duke of Angouleme restoring Ferdinand the 
 Seventh to the possession of his regal authority ; 
 the centre represents the public entry of the duke 
 and the king into Madrid, when under the aus- 
 
PAETS. 
 
 pices of France, Ferdinand receives the allegiance 
 of his subjects. 
 
 From the Place de Greve, we directed our 
 steps to the Notre Dame ; from thence we hired 
 a fiacre, and drove to the Jardin des Plantes ; 
 here we were highly pleased with the Menagerie, 
 especially by the sight of the giraffe (came- 
 leopard) ; this astonishing animal is kept in an in- 
 closure, with some of the oxen tribe, who appear 
 quite diminutive by his side. His character is 
 that of dignity and mildness ; he occasionally 
 deigned to stoop to pick up some hay from off 
 the ground, and then he rose his long neck to all 
 its altitude, and looked around him most ma- 
 jestically* 
 
 On Thursday the 18th, our visit was to the 
 Louvre. The Gallery of Antiques still pos- 
 sesses great interest ; but that of Paintings, with 
 the exception of the unexampled length and 
 beauty of the gallery itself, presents but a wreck 
 of its former attractions when it was enriched 
 with the spoils of Europe. Having quitted the 
 gallery, we crossed the Seine to visit a friend in 
 
PARIS. 99 
 
 the Rue de Bourbon, and then drove to the 
 Luxembourg, and got back to our hotel just in 
 time to escape the rain, which now set in for the 
 evening. 
 
 Friday, the 19th. In our rambles this fore- 
 noon. Dr. T and I, passing La Morgue, 
 
 went into that receptacle of unknown murders, 
 and of the sad victims of despair ; the bodies on 
 being found, are immediately stript, and that 
 they may be owned by relations or friends, 
 they are exposed on an inclined platform, the 
 immediate approach to which is prevented by a 
 barrier of upright bars. We saw three bodies 
 thus left, two of whom appeared to have been 
 much beaten about the head; the other was 
 without any apparent marks of violence, and we 
 may, therefore, conjecture had been accidentally 
 drowned in the river. 
 
 What an epitome of the world is Paris ! As a 
 city, exceeded by none in gaiety and luxury ; on 
 the other hand, nothing can be more frightful 
 than La Morgue. We then returned to make 
 preparations for our departure on the following 
 morning, before which, we repeated a visit to 
 
 H 2 
 
100 BOULOGNE. 
 
 the Exchange, (La Bourse,) one of the most ele- 
 gant structures of which the Parisians can boast, 
 resembling a temple of the gods rather than a 
 mart for speculation and gambling. 
 
 On Saturday the 20th, we took leave of Ma- 
 dame Pacquot and her daughter, the mistresses 
 of the Hotel Lillois, who had been kind and at- 
 tentive during our abode with them, and whose 
 lodgings, from their thorough knowledge of the 
 English, must be highly desirable to persons un- 
 acquainted with any language but that spoken at 
 London. At a quarter before eight in the morn- 
 ing precisely, we started from the Rue de Vic- 
 toires ; at four in the afternoon, we dined at 
 Beauvais ; at half past two in the morning, took 
 a cup of coffee at Abbeville, the night air quite 
 mild, and the moon at its full, shining most splen- 
 didly ; at eight in the morning, we breakfasted 
 at Montreuil, and reached Boulogne between 
 twelve and one at noon, unaccompanied by that 
 fatigue we had anticipated by travelling through 
 the night ; in truth, the Diligence was a very 
 comfortable one, and we had abundance of room, 
 there being in the interior only ourselves and a 
 
CALAIS. 101 
 
 young American gentleman. On our arrival, 
 we took apartments for the night at the Hotel 
 du Nord, and after we had shaken off the dust 
 from our journey, and taken an early dinner, we 
 walked to the port, where I went on board the 
 unfortunate Columbine, which had been liberated 
 from the reef of rocks off Ambleteuse, and 
 brought into this harbour, but it was not until 
 our arrival at Dover, that I obtained a correct 
 history of her disastrous and mismanaged voy- 
 age. From the port, we turned off to the right, 
 crossing the Downs till we came to the base of 
 the Imperial Column, which, by the bye, was 
 completed, and is now inscribed to the Bourbons. 
 
 Monday, the 22nd. At nine in the morning, 
 went by the Telegraph Coach to Calais, and 
 between twelve and one, took possession of the 
 same apartments, at Roberts's Hotel, that we 
 had left seven weeks before. 
 
 Without going back into the annals of history, 
 and repeating the vicissitudes of Calais, from 
 its acquisition by Edward the Third until its 
 loss by Queen Mary, I cannot leave it without 
 adverting to Blanchard's balloon, which is de- 
 
102 CALAIS. 
 
 posited over the staircase of the Town Hall ; and 
 as this aerial passage across the channel was the 
 only, and was certainly the most daring enter- 
 prize of the kind, it may not be uninteresting to 
 relate from the periodicals of those days, the 
 particulars of the voyage, as given by the aero- 
 nauts themselves. 
 
 Messrs. Blanchard and Jeffries, to effect their 
 object, waited at Dover from the 25th of De- 
 cember, 1734, until the 7th of January, ^^85, 
 on which day, the sky being clear, the weather 
 moderate, with the wind at n.n.w. at eight in 
 the morning, the signal gun was fired, and the 
 flag hoisted at the castle, to announce their in- 
 tended purpose, and expresses were accordingly 
 dispatched in all directions for the company to 
 assemble. 
 
 Soon after twelve the balloon was sufficiently 
 inflated for the experiment, the gas for which 
 was supplied from thirty butts. The inflamma- 
 ble air was conveyed in tin pipes from each butt, 
 which terminated in two receivers at the lower 
 part of the balloon. The cords, from the net- 
 work, were held by ten or a dozen men, till the 
 
CALAIS. 103 
 
 boat, which was seven and a half feet long, three 
 and a half feet wide, and two feet, nine inches 
 deep, was placed in its proper situation to be 
 suspended. Dr. Jeffries then seated himself at 
 the head, taking with him a barometer and a 
 flag, and, pulling off his coat, put on a flannel 
 jacket. The active and ingenious little French- 
 man, who had on a great coat and flannel trow- 
 sers fastened to his shoes, soon followed him, 
 and taking up the hoop, which was fastened to 
 the boat by eight or ten sash lines, about eighteen 
 inches long, began to take in the cords from each 
 person who held them, and made them fast, at 
 equal distances, around the hoop, tying every 
 knot himself, and observing, with the greatest 
 care and precision, that every string bore alike 
 on the body of the balloon, that the boat might 
 be equally balanced. Some few articles of pro- 
 vision were taken in, with a pocket bottle of 
 spirits, two large parcels of bladders inflated, and 
 two cork jackets, intended for assistance in case 
 of distress. Just at their departure a paper, the 
 purport of which was to certify to the court of 
 France, that these gentlemen were launched with 
 
104 CALAIS. 
 
 a balloon from Dover Cliffs on that day, at seven 
 minutes past one o'^clock, signed by upwards of 
 sixty spectators, was put into Blanchard's hands. 
 And now the awful moment came, every remaining 
 cord was loosened, and this large stupendous body 
 seemed struggling to get free to float in purer 
 climes. The particular friends of our two aerial 
 heroes on each side of the boat, kept it gently 
 gliding on the ground, till it came to the utmost 
 verge of the cliff. From this precipice let the 
 admiring world be told that these two men were 
 launched to swim in air. The sight was truly 
 sublime, the spectators were all eyes, and their 
 hearts all feeling. 
 
 The serenity and composure visible on the 
 countenances of these two extraordinary charac- 
 ters, the display of two beautiful flags, the red en- 
 sign of England, and the royalstandard of France, 
 the elegance of the little wherry that sustained 
 the passengers, the expansion of the silken oars, 
 and the stupendous magnificence of the balloon 
 itself, with the sun-beams full upon them, was a 
 sight which leaves all description at a distance, 
 and requires, indeed, a thousand witnesses to es- 
 
CALAIS* 105 
 
 tablish the truth of this most wonderful spectacle 
 ta the absent public. The salutations from the 
 castle, the beach, the forts, and the town, were 
 general, and gracefully returned by the two aero- 
 nauts moving their hats and waving their flags. 
 This was repeated again and again, whilst by an 
 almost imperceptible transition, they gradually 
 lessened to the eye. At the distance of about half 
 the way across they descended so rapidly, that 
 the spectators were exceedingly alarmed, appre- 
 hensive that some accident had befallen them ; 
 but in a few minutes they were relieved from 
 their apprehension, by their re-ascending higher 
 than before, though the elevation of the balloon 
 at no time appeared more than half a mile, or 
 three quarters, from the surface of the sea. 
 
 The wind at the time of their crossing was 
 favourable, and the sky was so clear that the 
 French land and town of Calais were plainly 
 discernible, and the eye scarcely lost sight of 
 the voyagers for near an hour and a half, and 
 with good glasses they were seen till safe within 
 the opposite coast. 
 
106 CALAIS. 
 
 Dr. Jeffries'' letter was as following r 
 
 "Calais, Jan. 8th, 1785. 
 
 " Heaven has crowned my utmost wishes with 
 success ! I cannot describe to you the magnifi- 
 cence and beauty of our voyage. When about 
 mid-channel, and at high elevation, we had such 
 a prospect of the country as surpasses my de- 
 scriptive faculties. When two-thirds over, we 
 had expended the whole of the ballast. At about 
 five or six miles from the French coast, we were 
 again falling rapidly towards the sea, on which 
 occasion my noble little captain gave orders, and 
 set the example, by beginning to strip our aerial 
 car, first of our silk and finery. This not giving 
 us sufficient release, we cast one wing, then the 
 other ; after which I was obliged to unscrew and 
 cast away our moulinet ; yet still approaching 
 the sea very fast, and the boats being much 
 alarmed for us, we cast away first one anchor, 
 then another, after which my little hero stripped 
 and threw away his great coat. On this I was 
 compelled to follow his example. He next cast 
 away his trowsers. We put on our cork jackets, 
 and luckily at this instant, we found the mercury 
 
CALAIS. 107 
 
 beginning to fall in the barometer, and we soon 
 ascended much higher than ever before, and 
 made a most beautiful and lofty entre into 
 France, exactly at three o'^clock. We entered 
 rising, and to such a height, that the arc we de- 
 scribed brought us down just twelve miles into 
 the country, when we descended most tranquilly 
 into the midst of the forest De Felmores, almost 
 as naked as the trees, not an inch of cord, or 
 rope left, no anchor or any thing to help us, nor 
 a being within several miles. My good little 
 captain begged for all my exertion to stop at the 
 top of the first tree I could reach. I succeeded 
 beyond my comprehension, and you would have 
 laughed to see us, even without a coat of any 
 sort, M. Blanchard assisting at the valve, and I 
 holding at the top of a lofty tree, and the 
 balloon playing to and fro over us, holding al- 
 most too severe a contest for my arms. It 
 took exactly twenty-eight minutes to let out 
 air enough to relieve the balloon without injury. 
 We soon heard the wood surrounded by footmen^ 
 horsemen, &c. and received every possible assist- 
 ance from them. I was soon well mounted, and 
 
108 CALAIS. 
 
 had a fine gallop of seven miles. We were in- 
 vited to the chateau, or seat, of Monsieur de 
 Sandrouin, where we received every polite at- 
 tention, and were led through a noble suite of 
 apartments, to partake of an elegant refresh- 
 ment, &c., and at nine sent away in an elegant 
 chariot and six horses, but under a promise that 
 we would call at the chateau of M. Brounot at 
 Ardingham, where we stayed about an hour, and 
 then set off again as before towards Calais, where 
 we arrived between one and two this morning. 
 I was surprised to find the difficulties of access ; 
 five very strong gates, bridges, &c., the guards 
 very vigilant, but had all orders to let us pass, 
 the commandant having set up for us. We vi- 
 sited him, and were very politely received ; but 
 the attentions of M. Mouron and his family ex« 
 ceeded all description. This morning, the mayor, 
 governor, commandant and officers, in a body, 
 the king's attorney-general, &c. have been to pay 
 us a congratulatory visit, and we have been com- 
 plimented, as they compliment the king alone, 
 by sending us the wine of the city. A patent is 
 making out to make my captain a citizen of Ca- 
 
CALAIS. 109 
 
 lais. We are receiving honours and attentions 
 much above our merit.'"* 
 
 It appears from another article on this sub- 
 ject, that the corporation of Calais came to a re- 
 solution to erect a monument to perpetuate the 
 memory of the two intrepid aeronauts ; and 
 Blanchard received a thousand Louis d'ors in 
 consequence of his accomplishing his attempt to 
 cross the Channel in his balloon. This was the 
 promised reward of the French king. 
 
 M. Blanchard's letter from Calais. 
 
 " We arrived here safe and well, and are at 
 this moment with M. Mouron, to whose house 
 we came last night. At the instant of my writ- 
 ing to you, the magistrates are' busy in preparing 
 me a patent to make me a citizen of Calais. To 
 this singular honour, they have added that of 
 sending me the wine of the city, a compliment 
 paid only to royalty, and inviting me to a public 
 dinner. I cannot express my feelings on these 
 marks of favour, which honour me far more 
 highly than my feeble efforts have deserved. 
 
 " Monsieur le Commandant, who had so po- 
 
110 CALAIS. 
 
 litely attended our arrival, and made the gates of 
 the city to be opened to us, has behaved in a 
 manner no less flattering. They drew out the 
 cannon to salute us, immediately on our appear- 
 ing above the French coast ; and I can scarcely 
 finish this billet, so eager are they to felicitate 
 me on an event which has doubtless been at- 
 tended with much danger ; for we were two hours 
 on the sea, and had never reached hither but by 
 stripping ourselves of all our clothes. By the 
 next post I will give you a more exact and cir- 
 cumstantial detail. I am, &c. 
 
 " Blanchard."' 
 
 The spot from whence this celebrated ascent 
 was made, was on the Castle-hill, and close by 
 the large gun well known as Queen Anne's 
 pocket pistol. 
 
 23d. We were up early this morning to get on 
 board the steam-vessel, an extra packet called the 
 Medusa, which was announced to leave the har- 
 bour at eight o'clock ; but, in fact, this oldest 
 and heaviest constructed vessel of the kind, did 
 not quit the pier till near nine, and with a little 
 
CALAIS. Ill 
 
 manoeuvring of the captain's to retard its pro- 
 gress, did not reach Dover until three in the after- 
 noon, just in time to lose the tide, by which means 
 we had to pay four shillings a head for landing, 
 although the distance was but a stone**s throw from 
 the beach, with an additional sixpence for cross- 
 ing a plank laid from the boat over the shingles, 
 to prevent our being ankle deep in the flowing or 
 retiring surge. As soon as we had stepped on shore, 
 we were overwhelmed with touters of every descrip- 
 tion ; we accepted the invitation of the waiter of 
 the Hotel de Londres, where we had slept on the 
 night previous to our embarkation for the conti- 
 nent ; but finding that all the principal apart- 
 ments were occupied, we transferred ourselves 
 and luggage to the Castle Inn, where we remained, 
 receiving every possible attention jfrom Mr. and 
 Mrs. Diver, the master and mistress of the ho- 
 tel, until the 25th, when we left Dover by the 
 Phoenix coach at half-past nine, and about eight 
 that night terminated our travels, which, during 
 the winter evenings, have furnished us with to- 
 pics of conversation ; and the various little pri- 
 vations we occasionally experienced, have ren- 
 
112 CALAIS. DOVER. 
 
 dered us more grateful for the blessings and com- 
 forts that we at present enjoy. And that these 
 feelings may not be entirely effaced, has induced 
 me to place them on record, agreeably to the 
 well known passage of the Roman poet, " forsan 
 et haec olim meminisse juvabit f" and these, 
 perhaps, to have remembered, will afford plea- 
 sure hereafter. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 G. Wocdfall, Printer, Angel Court, Skinner Street, London. 
 
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