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 JOURNAL, 
 
 COMPRISING AN ACCOUNT OF THE LOSS OF THE 
 
 BRIG COMMERCE, 
 
 OF HARTFORD, (CON.) JAMES RILEY, MASTER, 
 
 UPON THE WESTERN COAST OF AFRICA, 
 AUGUST 28th, 1815; 
 
 ALSO OF THE 
 
 SLAVERY AND SUFFERINGS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 AUTHOR AND THE REST OF THE CREW, 
 
 UPON THE 
 
 DESERT OF ZAHARA, 
 
 In the Years 1815, 1816, 1817; 
 
 WITH ACCOUNTS OF THE 
 
 MANNERS, CUSTOMS, AND HABITS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 WANDERING ARABS; 
 
 ALSO, 
 
 A BRIEF HISTORICAL AND GEOGRAPHICAL VIEW OF THC 
 CONTINENT OF AFRICA. 
 
 BY ARCHIBALD BOBBINS. 
 
 EIGHTEENTH EDITION. 
 HARTFORD: 
 
 PUBLISHED BY SILAS ANDRU*. 
 
 1825. 
 
 Stereotyped by C. St»rr, N«ir-Y»rk.
 
 District of Connecticut, ss. 
 
 BE it remembered, that on the thirteenth day ot 
 (L. S.) September in the forty-second year of the Inde- 
 pendence of the United States of America, Ar- 
 chibald Robbins, of the said district, hath deposited in this 
 office the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as Author 
 and proprietor, in the words following, to wit : — " A Journal, 
 comprising an account of the loss of the brig Commerce, of 
 Hartford, (Conn.) James Riley, master, upon the western coast 
 of Africa, August 28th, 1815 ; Also, of the slavery, and suffer- 
 ings of the Author, and the rest of the crew, upon the desert of 
 Zahara, in the years 1815, 1816, and 1817 ; with accounts of 
 the manners, customs, and habits of the wandering Arabs ; Al- 
 so, a brief historical and geographical view of the continent of 
 Africa. By ARCHIBALD ROBBINS." 
 
 In conformity to the act of the Congress of the United States, 
 entitled, " An act for the encouragement of learning, by secu- 
 ring the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the Authors and 
 Proprietors of such copies, during the times therein men- 
 tioned." 
 
 R. I. INGERSOLL, 
 Clerk of the District of Connecticut. 
 
 A true copy of record, examined and sealed by me, 
 
 R. I. INGERSOLL, 
 
 Clerk of the District of Connecticut.
 
 TO THE 
 
 HON. JAMES SIMPSON, 
 
 AMERICAN CONSUL GENERAL 
 
 AT TANGIER, 
 
 AND THE 
 
 HON. WILLIAM WILLSHIRE, 
 
 BRITISH VICE CONSUL, AND AMERICAN CONSULAR AGENT 
 
 AT MOGADORE— Africa :— 
 Gentlemen — 
 
 Permit me to offer this little volume to you. 
 I have, upon the ocean, endured the distress oc- 
 casioned by the elements — upon land, the mise- 
 ries inflicted by man, and from you have enjoyed 
 the blessings of humane benevolence, which I 
 can repay only by unalterable gratitude. 
 
 With high Respect, 
 
 and Consideration, 
 I am, Gentlemen, 
 
 Your grateful and ob't. servt. 
 
 ARCHIBALD ROBBINS. 
 
 ENGLSH
 
 TO THE PUBLIC. 
 
 I SHALL make no apology for offering to the 
 public the following Journal. It would be affec- 
 tation to pretend that in doing it, I have been in- 
 fluenced by motives wholly independent of per- 
 sonal emolument. My object in preparing and 
 publishing this concise and simple narrative of 
 my own sufferings, experience and observations, 
 among a people, and in a quarter of t'*ie globe 
 little known to my countrymen, was twofold — to 
 obtain, if possible, a small remuneration for the 
 unprecedented privations and sufferings, of which 
 I have been the unfortunate subject, and to add 
 to the scanty knowledge that exists with respect 
 to this singular people, and extraordinary por- 
 tion of the earth, such facts and information as 
 I was enabled to obtain, during nineteen months 
 of the most cruel and oppressive slavery which 
 barbarism, and a blind and ferocious superstition 
 could produce. 
 
 But although these were my principal objects, 
 yet had they not been presented to my view, and 
 strengthened by circumstances peculiarly favor- 
 able, I should never have been persuaded to have 
 engaged in so arduous, difficult and expensive an 
 undertaking. The wreck of the brig Commerce^ 
 and the distressing fate of the crew, was known 
 throughout the United States ; and in Connecti- 
 cut, where most of them had lived, there was a 
 lively and honorable sensibility felt upon the 
 subject. Under these circumstances, on my re- 
 
 A2
 
 VI TO THE PUBLIC. 
 
 turn home in June last, it is not a matter of sur- 
 prise that my friends, and others, should have 
 felt anxious to have me publish the " sad tale ol 
 my sufferings." 
 
 In preparing this Journal, I have aimed to be 
 correct — to give a faithful and accurate detail of 
 facts; and although it will probably contain some 
 errors even in this respect, yet I think it will be 
 free from the charge to which works of this de- 
 scription are too generally and too justly expo- 
 sed, that of containing strange and marvellous 
 accounts. Not wishing to be deceived myself, 
 I cannot, designedly, become the instrument of 
 deceiving others. In describing the manners, 
 customs, modes of living, religious ceremonies 
 and worship of the Arabs, I have observed a 
 minuteness which many may think unnecessary. 
 But as the variance of a few shades changes the 
 complexion and general appearance of a piece 
 of painting, so a few r minute, and apparently un- 
 important particulars, affect, essentially, the ge- 
 neral characteristics of a people. 
 
 It was found impossible, in the course of the 
 work, to avoid incorporating some of the proper 
 Barnes of the Arabs ; in doing which I have 
 been obliged to adopt an English orthography, 
 and the barbarous and guttural sounds of their 
 words appear, if possible, still more harsh when 
 put in an English dress. Wherever Arabic 
 terms or words have been used, they have gen- 
 erally been explained ; but the words Wiled 
 and Biled which occur frequently in the work, 
 not having been explained in the text, it may nof 
 he improper to inform the reader in this place,
 
 TO THE PUBLIC. VII 
 
 that the latter signifies country, and the former 
 sons of; that is, denoting the first or primitive 
 stock from whence the tribes have descended. 
 These words, from the rapid speaking of the 
 natives, are pronounced WilVd and BHed — as, 
 WilVd Abbousebah — B^led Mouessa Alt. 
 
 Having had no other than a common educa- 
 tion, and from the pursuits in which I have been 
 engaged, it could not be supposed that I should 
 make much pretension to literature. In pre- 
 paring the work, I have been assisted by a gen- 
 tleman of science and information, who has be- 
 stowed upon it considerable attention, and given 
 it a shape and character which it could not have 
 assumed if it had gone from my own hand, un- 
 assisted by literary skill or scientific acquire- 
 ments. 
 
 ARCHIBALD ROBBINS.
 
 THE MAP. 
 
 THE Map attached to this volume is added 
 to illustrate the subject of it. It was not made 
 to aid the geographer, but to assist the reader 
 in tracing the eccentric course the author was 
 compelled to travel with his Arab masters. The 
 Western coast of Africa and the Desert of Zahara 
 are represented with as much accuracy as was 
 attainable from the observations of the author 
 and from the most approved maps. The gene- 
 ral situation of the different tribes is laid down 
 upon the map, although their frequent wander- 
 ings almost precludes the idea of giving locality 
 to them. The great station for caravans is de- 
 signated, although there may be others un- 
 known to the author. If errors should be de- 
 tected in the map, by the acute examiner, the 
 author can only say, " to err is huma?i, to forgive 
 divine."
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 •~b' 
 
 Short biogpaphical sketch — Voyages — Author is taken pri- 
 soner by H. B. M. frigate Surprise — discharged — taken 
 again, and held till peace. — Brig Commerce — her owners 
 and crew — voyage to New -Orleans — to Gibraltar — her 
 wreck on the African coast - - - IS 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Shipwrecks — Wreck of the brig Commerce described — 
 danger of the crew — landing on the African coast — 
 wrecked articles — disposal of money — first view of a 
 wandering Arab of the Zahara Desert — he is joined by 
 more — they approach us, menace us, and retire — first 
 night in Africa — we are driven aboard the wreck — at- 
 tempt to go to sea in a boat — in vain — escape of Capt. 
 Riley and capture of Antonio - - - 21 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 A consultation — measures adopted to clear the surf — we 
 put to sea in the long boat — alarms and distresses — stood 
 01A four days — stood in three days, and landed on the 
 5th Sept. 1815, to the north of Cape Barbas, western 
 coast of Africa ----- 30 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Brief historical sketch of the discoveries upon the African 
 continent — origin of present European nations, and Afri- 
 can tribes — Canary Islands — CapeBajador — Porto Santo 
 —Madeira— Cape Verd-- Cape of Good Hope— De Ga- 
 ma — Columbus — East-Indies — America — Coast of Africa 
 — Interior of Africa 3$ 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Passage from Cape Barbas— mutual pledge— the coast — 
 crossing precipice — projecting rock — watery cavern — 
 view of Zahara — sleeping on hill — prayer — capture by 
 Arabs, and separation - ... 50 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Separation of the crew— taking leave— departure into the 
 desert— mode of travelling — water— goat skin— arrival 
 at a tent— mode of making fire— cooking and eating—
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 travelling upon Z»feara — Mahommedan worship — cloth- 
 ing 63 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 Meeting with part of the crew — preparations for a jour- 
 ney — tent — furniture — man-saddle — female do. — load- 
 ing tent and furniture — gazelle — Mr. Williams and Bar- 
 rett — Christian and Mahommedan religion — separation 
 — mode of spinning and weaving — of making a tent — 
 of pitching it — scrupulous regard to worship - 75 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 Painful travelling — salutations — Mr. Williams' situation — 
 Barrett — rocks — Africans enslave each other — a wander- 
 ing male Arab — female do. — American pork — Mr. Sa- 
 vage — interview with him — a rarity 88 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Origin of wandering Arabs — vegetables on the desert Za- 
 hara — gloomy prospect — roots — snails — water obtained 
 — submission to fate — last meeting and last interview 
 with Capt. Riley, Mr. Savage, Clarke, Burns, and Ho- 
 race — situation upon desert — valley — meeting with Por- 
 ter 98 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Sympathy — Hogan — his situation and feelings — received 
 at the tent of Ganus — my mistress — fictitious ceremony 
 — power of the female Arabs — gloomy valley — Dick — 
 misery of black Africans — Messrs. Wilberforce and 
 Clarkson — American flag upon Zahara desert - 112 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 A shower — a female fashion— an adventure — a journey — 
 dress of a wandering Arab -smoking — Gum-Arabic — 
 slaying a camel — a repast — Hogan — Arab hospitality 121 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 A storm of sand — distress — a great story — Porter's sick- 
 ness — a dismal plain — rapid travelling — nauseous water 
 — description ot a well in Zahara desert — marble moun- 
 tain — deep valley and monument— impossibility of es- 
 caping — Spaniard — view of the ocean — Cape Mirik — 
 author sold to another Arab of the tribe of Wiled D'leim 130 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Africa — the coast — Interior — Deserts — Mountains — Capes 
 — Rivers — Islands — Straits ... ]_4tf 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 Mahomet Meaar^h — Fishing — Cape Mirik — innocent de- 
 ception — obstinacy — Barrett — Hon. William Willshire —
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 calendar — second tour into the desert — thanksgiving — 
 description of camel — mode of instruction in reading and 
 writing ------ 155 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 A long journey — Porter — locusts, mtde of catching, cook- 
 ing, and eating them — narrow escape — Mahommedan 
 teacher — blacksmith upon the desert — salt-bed — debili- 
 ty approaching to death ... - 16$ 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Medical practice — Hogan and Dick — sale of Porter — hap- 
 piness in Zahara — author regains his health — is sold to 
 Hamet Webber, an Arab merchant of the Wiled El 
 Kabla — African and European merchandise — an expect- 
 ed battle — gunnery — females of the El Kabla tribe 170 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 A Caravan — an armed Arab — black mountains — cultiva- 
 ted land — apprehension of danger — African serpents — 
 Hamet joins a caravan which is attacked — mountains of 
 s.-md — fatigue -caravan broken up -author sold to Bel 
 Cossim Abdallah of Wadinoon — wounded Arab — arrival 
 at Wadinoon, - - - - - 188 
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 Wadinoon — its situation number of houses and inhabitants 
 — cattle — people gardens — vegetables — barley harvest 
 — cruelty of Bel Cossim — reaping, threshing, winnowing 
 and grinding— keskoosoo — eating — market and fairs — 
 manner of building houses — Sheick's house - - 197 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 Public worship — fasting season — feasting season — circum- 
 cision — wreck of a prize to the Romp, and her crew — re- 
 demption of the crew of the British brig Surprise — Sidi 
 Hesham, his appearance and power — Jews, decree con- 
 cerning them— tobacco and snuff— Hamet Webber 209 
 
 CHAP. XX. 
 \ature of government among the Arabs — marriage cere- 
 monies — interment of dead — the Saint, Sidi Timah— a 
 mound — practice of physic — amusements — ransom of 
 Porter — quarrel between Wadinoon and Akkadia — a 
 flood — ploughing season — description of locusts — mutto- 
 morahs ------ 217 
 
 CHAP. XXI. 
 
 Manuscript in English — author purchased by a Shiliuh — 
 leaves Wadinoon — dangerous travelling — distant view of 
 Santa Cruz — monuments — EPajjah Mahomet — letter and 
 express sent to Mogadore — the Shiliuh — productions of
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 their country— story of the Spaniard— message from Mo- 
 gadore — passport to that place ... 230 
 
 CHAP. XXII. 
 
 Departure with El'ajjah Mahomet — El-wad Sta — sand 
 hills — the ocean — Atlas mountains — arrival at Santa 
 Cruz — description of that place — passage over a moun- 
 tain — a contrast — romantic view — cottage in a forest — 
 dogs — view of Mogadore — reception by Mr. Willshire — 
 admission into his house — cheering American flag 24 1 
 
 CHAP. XXIII. 
 
 Character of Mr. Willshire — description of Mogadore — 
 the Jews — markets — manufactures — public buildings — 
 mode of worship — manners of the people — population — 
 harbor — shipwrecks — letter from the Hon. James Simp- 
 son 250 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 
 The author, Davis, and Brown, leave Mogadore for Tan- 
 gier^ — the country — Azamor — river Qmmirabih — Douar 
 of tents — fearful apprehensions — equestrian exercise — 
 escape by night — aqueduct — arrival at Rabat - 257 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 Rabat, description of it — the harbour — shad — Mr. Abou- 
 derham — Jewish feast — Sallee — a Lake — river Saboo — 
 scenery — Rock of Gibraltar, and Mount Atlas — arrival at 
 Tangier — reflections — Hon. James Simpson — Mount 
 Washington, in Africa — passage to Gibraltar — Mr. Hen- 
 ry, consul— Mr. Simpson's letter - - 264
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 THE narratives and journals of advent *ers, 
 the shipwrecked, the traveller, and the captive, 
 are often told with exaggerations, and not un- 
 frequently condemned by the discerning. Sue), 
 narrations gratify those who are always seeking 
 • ; to see or hear some new thing ;" but they only rai&> 
 the wonder of the credulous, and deceive the in- 
 quirer after truth. But it may be here remark- 
 ed, that readers are readily disposed to disbe- 
 lieve every thing that goes counter to their own 
 experience, that surpasses their own observa- 
 tions, or that represents the actions of men, and 
 men themselves, in a manner that violates their 
 ideas of human nature. The author of the fol- 
 lowing Jounal has seen life in a sphere uncom 
 mon to his countrymen : — he has endured mise- 
 ries uncommon to human nature. But by the 
 blessings of a merciful Providence, he has sur- 
 vived to relate them to his countrymen. How- 
 ever imperfect may be the manner in which he 
 may give his relation, he is determined that the 
 matter shall be founded on facts alone. If these 
 facts are of a nature calculated to excite the 
 doubts of his readers, he can only regret it; and 
 will content himself with the reflection, that as 
 he is incapable of deceiving his readers, he will 
 not wound his own conscience by uttering a 
 known falsehood. lie hopes not even to be mis- 
 taken. 
 
 B
 
 I i INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The narrative of my highly respected friend, 
 Capt. James Riley, is already before the public. 
 It has excited that interest which the history of 
 human sufferings is calculated to produce among 
 a humane people. For two months he was a 
 captive among a race of beings, whose " tender 
 mercies are cruelties. 1 '' Durivig that period, I, toge- 
 ther with the rest of his unfortunate crew, was 
 likewise a sufferer. At the end of this time, he 
 was released from a cruel bondage, and was re- 
 stored to his native country and anxious friends. 
 A more cruel fate attended me. I was still de- 
 tained as a captive among the wandering Arabs: 
 and was compelled, for nineteen months, to en- 
 dure as much as human nature can bear and yet 
 survive. 1 have, however, abundant reason to 
 rejoice that I am now among my friends, while 
 the fate of some of this wretched crew is still 
 unki own. The following journal shall be a 
 faith hi and accut ate detail of all the knowledge 
 I possess of this ill-fated crew.
 
 JOURNAL, *c. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Short biographical sketch — Voyages — Author is taken prisoner 
 by H. B. M. frigate Surf rise — discharged — taken again, and 
 held till peace. —Brig Commerce—her owners and crew — voy- 
 age (o New-Orleans— to Gibraltar— her wreck on the African 
 
 coast. 
 
 THE life of an humble individual is of but 
 little consequence to a community, where the 
 lives of the great are read as a common amuse- 
 ment. But as I am about to relate an inte- 
 resting part of my own, I hope I shall escape the 
 imputation of vanity by very briefly relating it 
 from my birth. I was born ii -he town of Weth- 
 crsfield, Conn. — a pleasant and fertile town, 
 situated on the west side of Connecticut river, 
 on the 10th day of November, 1792. I conti- 
 nued with my parents there until I arrived to 
 the age of twelve years. At this time I went to 
 reside in the town of Middle bury, Vt. In this 
 flourishing village, in which is situated a Uni- 
 versity which begins to rank amongst the first 
 in New-England, I spent the winters in obtain- 
 ing a common school education; which, added 
 to the little knowledge I had before acquired 
 in my native town, gave me such rudiments of 
 an English education, as is common with the
 
 16 ROBBING JOl/RNAL. 
 
 young men of New-England. I returned to 
 Wethersfield at tlie age of about fifteen years, 
 and continued with my father until I became 
 sixteen. Situ ted in a town where ship-buiid 
 ing was then a leading business, and from which 
 a great number of young men had gone to try 
 their fortunes upon the ocean, 1 soon turned my 
 attention from the peaceful and certain pursuii 
 of husbandry, to the hazardous employment ot 
 a seaman. 
 
 My first voyage was made in a vessel, partly 
 owned by my father, from Wethersfield to the 
 island of St. Christophers. No incident hap- 
 pened to the vessel, to the crew, nor to myself, 
 worthy of relation. No part of the cargo, nor 
 any lives of the' crew were lost. 
 
 The second voyage 1 made was in the same 
 VCSSel to Wilmington, N. Carolina, from thence 
 to the W. Indies — hack again to Wilmingion— 
 from thence again to the West-Indies, and bad. 
 to Wethersfield. A pleasant voyage. 
 
 My third voyage was mule from New-York 
 to the West-fndies, from whence I returned to 
 New-London in Conned i< ut. 
 
 Thus far I had met with no disasters uncom- 
 mon to the pursuit of a sea-firing life. I became 
 attached to it, as is common with ftie young men 
 of New-England. The fascinating charins of the 
 ocean, and the pteasing.diversky of a sailor's life, 
 led me along, like the song of the Syren, to th't 
 endurance of privations and miseries ivhieri, 
 when I. now review, call upon me for the most 
 nndissembled gratitude to that merciful Being. 
 who suffers not a sparnr.v to fi.il i<> the ground
 
 ROBBING JOURNAL. 17 
 
 without his knowledge; and who mercifully 
 " tempers the wind to the shorn lamb." 
 
 My fourth voyage was commenced in the 
 month of February, 1013. The American can- 
 vass could no longer be spread with safety upon 
 the ocean. Her proud and powerful mistress — 
 wielding the trident of Neptune, would no longer 
 permit the " striped bunting" of Americans to 
 pursue its wonted course. We sailed from New- 
 York for the neutral port of St. Bartholomews — 
 were taken on our passage, by his B. M. frigate 
 Surprise, and landed at St. Bartholomews, from 
 whence, after a short detention, I returned in & 
 cartel to New-York. 
 
 The fifth voyage I made, I sailed from New- 
 Haven, (Ct.) for St. Bartholomews, in Septem- 
 ber, 1813, and was brought to by the British 
 squadron lying off New-London. They took 
 from our vessel about eighty barrels of provi- 
 sions, and ordered us for Halifax. I remained 
 there about two months. I then took a passage 
 inaSwedish vessel for St. Bartholomews; having 
 business entrusted to me at that island by a mer- 
 chant in the city of New- York. I succeeded in 
 accomplishing my business, and returned off 
 New-London. The vessel, in which I was a pas- 
 senger, was taken by the squadron, and I was put 
 on board of the Borer, brig of war, and sent again 
 to Halifax. I remained a prisoner in the prison 
 on Melville island, until the conclusion of the 
 peace by the treaty of Ghent. I hoped to have 
 been in some measure compensated for this im- 
 prisonment, by receiving pay for eighteen months 
 
 employ, and imprisonment occasioned by that em- 
 us
 
 J 8 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 ploy, by the merchant at New-York. — His faiiutv 
 in the mean time cut me off from realizing this 
 hope; but as he is a man of the strictest honour S 
 have no doubt but 1 shall yet be compensated. 
 On my return to America, 1 found myself destitute 
 of property and employ, but not of resolution. 
 
 I now come to the relation of the sixth and iast 
 royage I have made. In relating it 1 sensibly feci 
 a high degree of responsibility. But, taking the 
 pole-star of truth for my guide, I am determined 
 o satisfy my conscience, and, if possible, mv 
 readers. 
 
 I felt anxious to pursue a business with -which 
 experience had made me acquainted. The brig 
 Commerce, of Hartford, Con. being owned by Ri- 
 ley «fc Brown and the Messrs. Savages, was fitted 
 for sea. She was a fine stout built new vessel. 
 The acknowledged respectability of her owners. 
 as merchants, and the long experience and repu- 
 ation of Cantai i James Riley, as her command- 
 er, induced me to enter her in the capacity of an 
 able seaman. Ho-' principal mate was Mr. George 
 Williams, of Middietown — her second mate was 
 Mr. Aaron R. Savage, of the same place. The 
 crew consisted of 'V>ll'<mi Porter, Thomas Burns. 
 James Clarke, and r: ) self, seamen; Horace Savage, 
 cabin boy; Francis Bliss, James Carrington, ordi- 
 nary seamen ; and Richard Delisle, (a man of co- 
 lour.) cook. 
 
 This brig cleared out from Middietown for 
 New-Orleans, with a small cargo — her ballast 
 being brick. The object of the voyage to New- 
 Orleans was to obtain a freight for a foreign mar- 
 ket. We sailed on the 6th day of May from Say-
 
 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 19 
 
 brook, situated at the mouth of Connecticut ri- 
 ver. Nothing material occurred until off Gary 3 - 
 iort reef, on the coast of E. Florida. The vessel 
 struck upon this reef, and excited great appre- 
 hension in our captain and crew for the safety 
 of the vessel and ourselves. We clewed down 
 all sails, and let go an anchor, which immediate- 
 ly brought her to ; having passed the reef, and 
 riding safe in about twelve feet water. We thou 
 lowered down her stern boat; and the captain 
 and four of the crew entered her-^sounded be- 
 low her for a safe passage — found one — weighed 
 anchor, atid passed through in safety. We ar- 
 rived at the city of New-Orleans upon the 1st 
 day of June. We here discharged our cargo, 
 and took in a cargo of flour and tobacco. The 
 two ordinary seamen, Bliss and Carrington, ob- 
 jected to going a voyage to Gibraltar, to which 
 place the vessel was bound, and were discharg- 
 ed. Two seamen were shipped in their room. 
 viz. John Hoqan and % James Barrett. On the 
 24th of June, we sailed from New-Orleans for 
 Gibraltar ; and, after a passage of about forty - 
 five days, we arrived at that place and landed 
 our cargo. I was ordered, with three others, 
 while lying in the bay, to go with Capt. Riley on 
 board a schooner, from New-York. In perform- 
 ing this service, assisting the schooner in beat- 
 ing out of the harbor, and returning to the brig, 
 it having become almost dark, our boat was up- 
 set; and while we were hanging upon it, we were 
 relieved by Capt. Price, who returned with his 
 schooner to our assistance ; and having bailed 
 (he boat we returned to the brig.
 
 >20 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 We now took in part of a cargo of brandy and 
 wine. An elderly man, by the name of Antonio 
 Michel, was taken on board to work his passage 
 to New-York. On the 23d day of August, we 
 set sail from Gibraltar for the Cape de Verd 
 islands, to complete the cargo with salt. The 
 usual course from Gibraltar to these islands is, 
 to run down, and make the island of Madeira ; 
 but Capt. Riley, wishing to make the passage as 
 expeditious as possible, run down between the 
 Canary islands and the African coast. We con- 
 tinued our course, with all sails set. The wea- 
 ther being thick and foggy, we passed the grand 
 Canaries without discovering them. It was no- 
 ticed by the mates and some of the crew, on the 
 28th day of August, (sea account,) at meridian, 
 that the water was coloured, indicating a near 
 approach to land. This circumstance was men- 
 tioned to Capt. Riley; but he was of opinion that 
 this appearance was occasioned by the fog and 
 the thick weather ; and he continued his course 
 S. W. at ten knots an hour, until, at about 10 
 o'clock in the evening, we were wrecked on the 
 coast of Africa, near Cape Bajador, between 26 
 and 27 degs. N. Latitude.
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 2 J 
 
 CHAP. [I. 
 
 Shipwrecks — Wreck of the brig Commerce described — danger of 
 the crezv — landing on the African coast — wrecked articles - 
 disposal of money— first view of a wandering Arab of the Zu 
 hara Desert — he is joined by more — they approach us, menace 
 us, and retire —first night in Africa — we are driven aboard 
 the wreck — attempt to go to sea in a boat — in vain — escape of 
 Cftpt. Riley and capture of Antonio. 
 
 TO a seaman, the description of a shipwreck 
 is familiar from his knowledge of a vessel, the 
 tackle, and the nautical terms of sea-faring men: 
 but by that portion of readers who are not thus 
 acquainted, no adequate conception can he 
 formed of the appalling horrors of such a scene. 
 When it is foreseen, and yet cannot be avoided, 
 the mind is, in a degree, prepared to encounter 
 it. It is fortified greatly by appealing to that 
 Being who, " on the ivings of mighty winds" di- 
 rects the storm that is powerful enough to dash 
 to pieces the strongest fabrick of human inven- 
 tion. But when it comes upon the unsuspicious, 
 who are riding in apparent security upon th \ 
 element with which they have become familiar, 
 tiie scene is doubly horrible. Thus it came up- 
 on our worthy captain and his ill-fated crew. 
 The gale, that we imagined was wafting us on 
 our passage to our native shore, and the arms of 
 our friends, dashed us upon the inhospitable 
 coast of merciless barbarians. At a little past 
 !;>, on the night of the memorable 28th of Au- 
 gust, our fine brig ran ashore with such violence 
 as to start us from the deck, or prostrate us up-
 
 22 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 on it. We immediately let go our sheet anchor, 
 clewed down our sails, and used every exertion 
 to save her. But her fate was decided, and our 
 exertions were vain. The sea broke with tre- 
 mendous power over the starboard quarter, and 
 our stern boat, being in danger, we took her on 
 board. We then broke open the hold, and ex- 
 erted all our energies in filling small casks 
 with water from our large water casks, know- 
 ing that the dismal coast on which fate had 
 driven us, was almost destitute of that indispen- 
 sable necessary of life. We also secured all the 
 provisions we could, as the vessel was now fast 
 filling with water. At 12 o'clock, the weather 
 became sufficiently clear to enable us to disco- 
 ver the beach off (he larboard bow. The lar- 
 board bulwark was instantly cut away, to ena- 
 ble us to launch the boats with greater expedi- 
 tion and safety. The small boat was then low- 
 ered into the water, into which Capt. Riley and 
 William Porter jumped, and carried a rope 
 ashore which they made fast by means of sticks 
 which had floated there from the wreck. We 
 then got the long-boat overboard, and hauled 
 her under our larboard bow. We threw over 
 some barrels of water and wine, which floated 
 ashore, and by those on shore were secured. 
 We put into the boat two or three barrels of 
 bread, and some beef and pork. I jumped into 
 the boat with James Barrett, and, veering her 
 by means of a rope fastened on board the brig, 
 we approached the shore. The surf immedi- 
 ately filled her. We instantly jumped over- 
 board, and saved some of our u-pt provisions.
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 23 
 
 and secured one barrel of bread wholly dry. 
 Capt. Riley, Porter, Barrett and myself were 
 now ashore. The long boat being bilged, and 
 the small one unable to stand the surf, we could 
 not return to the wreck. Our companions on 
 board, in the mean time, were heaving over- 
 board chests, beds, and every article that would 
 float, that they could come at, and those of us 
 on shore were securing ihem as they floated 
 within our reach. Day-light at length appear- 
 ed. Capt. Riley hailed the mates, who were 
 both on board, ordering them to make fast one 
 of the ropes, that extended from the wreck to 
 the shore, around his trunk containing some spe- 
 cie. This being done, we dragged the trunk 
 ashore. The brig was now completely filled 
 vrith water. Capt Riley ordered the masts to 
 be cut away. This being done by those on 
 board, our next attention was directed to the 
 best means in our power, to rescue our compan- 
 ions from the imminent danger surrounding 
 them. I had been ordered, with Barrett, to 
 come ashore in the long boat with provisions, as 
 before mentioned, and to return again. This 
 was now impracticable, as the boat was bilged 
 — the small boat would not have lived in the 
 surf a moment — but a rope remained fastened 
 to the wreck, and extending to the shore. This 
 was loosened, and made fast to the hawser, by 
 those on board, and by those who had landed, 
 drawn to the shore, and made a3 fast as the slen- 
 der means within our power would enable us to 
 do it. It was now high water. The brig lay 
 from twenty-five to thirty rods from the shore ;
 
 24 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. % 
 
 and between them, the surf was rolling and roar- 
 ing in a manner calculated to produce conster- 
 nation and despair in the stoutest heart. Capt. 
 Riley, by signals, as he could not now be heard, 
 motioned to those upon the wreck to come 
 ashore upon the hawser. He placed himself, 
 together with Porter, Barrett, and myself at the 
 hawser, as far in the water as we could stand, 
 the surf all the while breaking over us. At 
 length Hogan attempted the perilous passage. 
 Suspended upon the hawser, between two 
 worlds, uncertain to which every returning surge 
 might waft him, he approached the shore. Be- 
 fore he reached it. he was so much exhausted, 
 that he lost his hold — a surf washed him within 
 our reach, and we saved him. The next that 
 arrived and was received into our arms was Mj. 
 Savage, second mate. Young Savage, (cabin 
 boy,) Antonio, Mr. Williams, first mate, Clarke, 
 Burns, and Dick, (man of colour,) came in suc- 
 cession, and landed at about sunrise on a coast 
 containing a race of beings more merciless than 
 the waves from which they had just escaped. 
 
 We now found ourselves with bodies exhaust- 
 ed, and minds agitated, stretched upon a desert 
 shore. We saw, for nearly a mile on the shore, 
 the fragments of a valuable cargo, which, twelve 
 hours before, we thought safe. Our first atten- 
 tion was directed to the boats. We hauled 
 them up from the surf, and gave Capt. Riley all 
 the assistance we possibly could in gathering 
 together the small amount of provisions and 
 clothing which lay strewed along. This being 
 done, our captain opened his trunk in which
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 2& 
 
 were two bags of specie of $1000 each. He 
 told us all to take as much of it as we could con- 
 ceal about our persons. I declined taking any 
 part of it, as I had already more of my own than 
 [ could thus hide from the eye of an Arab. It 
 is impossible to tell what would have been our 
 fate, had not the Arabs discovered that we had 
 in our possession the precious metals; but I ve- 
 rily believe it was the discovery of it that in- 
 duced them to heighten their demands for our 
 ransom, and increase their cruelty to our per- 
 sons. The other bag was buried in the sand 
 The sun was now rising over a sand hill that 
 stretched along a short distance from the shore. 
 Our attention was now attracted to the appear- 
 ance of a human creature at the distance of 
 nearly half a mile approaching us ; if that crea- 
 ture can be called human whose appearance is 
 nothing but a slander upon our species. As he 
 discovered the wrecked articles and our wretch- 
 ed group, he manifested, by his actions, the 
 commotions of a mind agitated by the mingled 
 operations of joy and fear. He came perhaps 
 within twenty rods of us ; and then, by signs, 
 showed an intention of departing. Capt. Riley 
 walked gently towards him, and by every sign 
 that could be resorted to, endeavoured to per- 
 suade him to come and take possession of some 
 portion of the wrecked articles. After inter- 
 changing signs, in token of peace, this horrible 
 figure, that defied description, left us to our re- 
 flections upon this adventure. We were then 
 endeavoring, with oars and the fragments of 
 
 broken spars, together with two of our steering 
 
 c
 
 26 ROBBING JOURNAL. 
 
 sails, which we had secured from the wreck, to 
 erect a tent and secure our provisions and wa- 
 ter ; scarcely thinking of any thing else, from 
 the peculiar perils of our situation. While bu- 
 sily engaged in this service, the figure before 
 mentioned re-appeared; being joined by two 
 aged females of the most frightful aspect, a boy. 
 and two small girls, whom we supposed to be 
 their children. More terrible visages never 
 presented themselves to the astonished eyes and 
 the agitated hearts of men. The gnashing teeth 
 and opened mouth of the old man, stretching al- 
 most from ear to ear— his longgrev beard hang- 
 ing on his breast — his head covered with long 
 bushy hair, standing in every direction — the red 
 and flashing eyes of the old women, their tushes 
 projecting from their jaws — and the more mild, 
 though terrible appearance of their ferocious 
 brood, imparted feelings to us, better imagined 
 than described. Although the old man, on his 
 first appearance, showed evidence of fear, it was 
 now changed to insolence. He broke open the 
 chests, and plundered the clothing ; and, ap- 
 proaching our tent, was about to wrest from us 
 our provisions and water. We resolved that 
 death should be his immediate portion, and that 
 of his clan, if he attempted this ; indeed, had i< 
 not been for the almost certain knowledge that 
 the sand hill concealed a numerous horde like 
 his, they would soon have been deprived of the 
 power of plundering us at all. They departed 
 with their plunder, and left our wretched party 
 either to despair, or to take measures for our 
 future escape or safety. Capt. Riley proposed
 
 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. • 27 
 
 to attempt a repair of the long boat. Mr. Sa- 
 vage, Porter, Horace, and I, assisted him in do- 
 ing this in the best manner we could. The rest 
 of our shipmates, from tha> despair which pro- 
 duces desperation, had deprived themselves of 
 the power of joining us in this necessary duty, 
 by too freely using the wine within their reach. 
 Some of these natives had furnished us with some 
 fire, with which we cooked some salted pork, by 
 fuel procured from the beach. This, with some 
 bread and butter, furnished us with the last 
 meal we were to enjoy from the provisions yet 
 saved from the wreck. The old man with his 
 hideous followers had retired — -the night came 
 on — and although, on one side the ocean was 
 dashing her surging billows upon the rocks we 
 had just escaped, ^and on the other we were en- 
 vironed by the sand hill concealing probably a 
 horde of wretches preparing on the approaching 
 morning to recommence the work of plunder, 
 and perhaps become our executioners, I sunic 
 down, with my shipmates, excepting a watch, 
 into a profound and refreshing sleep upon the 
 sand under our tent. 
 
 The next morning, the sun rose more gloomily 
 to us than it did to .Sterne's sick Lieutenant. 
 He was sinking into the arms of death, among 
 his anxious friends ; — we were in momentary 
 danger of being devoured by demons, whose di- 
 abolical ferocity would have added a laurel to 
 the escutcheon of Satan himself. The old man 
 once more made his appearance with additional 
 reinforcements. The women commenced a yell, 
 that reminded me of the description of the wail-
 
 28 KOBBINS' JOURNAL 
 
 ing of the damned spirits. He ordered us to 
 the wreck, pointing to a drove of camels de- 
 scending a hill to the eastward. He ap- 
 proached our tent with an iron spear, and com- 
 menced an assault. We all fled to the small 
 boat, while Capt. Riley defended himself with 
 7i piece of a spar with the most consummate 
 coolness. Our little boat immediately filled — 
 bilged — and we re-landed, and drove the old 
 Arab some distance up the beach. The camels, 
 with their armed riders, were pressing upon us. 
 We flew to the long boat — turned her over, and 
 committing ourselves to the waves, we all reach- 
 ed the wreck, and viewed these banditti, armed 
 with spears and scimitars, showing us the tokens 
 of defiance, and carrying off' or destroying all 
 they found upon the shore. Immediately upon 
 getting aboard, we sought through the wreck to 
 get what provisions we could. We found a few 
 pieces of pork and a few bottles of wine, but no 
 water. These we let down into the boat, which 
 was in a leaky condition, requiring two men to 
 bail her. Porter and I got a fore-top-mast-stay- 
 sail, and put it into the boat. We could find no 
 oars; and as a substitute, we split two plank* 
 which we found floating iii the hold. These we 
 also put into the boat. We all let ourselves 
 down into the boat, and attempted to put to sea. 
 The surf nearly filled our boat, and drove us 
 back to the wreck which we regained. The 
 Arabs afterwards returned, unarmed, and by 
 manifesting every appearance of peace, and of- 
 fering Capt. Riley a goat skin, which will here- 
 After be described, filled with water, induced
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 29 
 
 him to go ashore. The old man came aboard, 
 and after seeking for fire-arms and money, in 
 vain, he went ashore. We then witnessed the 
 danger of Capt. Riley — he was seized by two of 
 the clan, and we expected to be sad spectators 
 of his death. We sent all the money we had on 
 bosrd in a bucket, to the shore, hoping to ap- 
 pease the vengeance of these merciless wretch- 
 es. We were disappointed. The danger of our 
 captain increased. He hailed us. Mr. Savage 
 once more descended on the hawser, and was 
 approaching the beach, and was discovered by 
 the captain, who intreated him by signs to re- 
 turn, and send Antonio ashore. He did so ; but 
 as Antonio carried no money, the vengeance of 
 the Arabs apparently arose to the highest pitch. 
 Capt. Riley made his escape to the wreck, fol- 
 lowed by two natives, and Antonio was seized, 
 loaded with plunder, and forced over the sand hill. 
 Since I have returned to America, I have read 
 a small part of Capt Riley's narrative. I find 
 that Capt. Riley expressed his regret at the death 
 of Antonio, fearing that he was the cause of it. 
 He may dismiss his regret upon this subject, as 
 I, with many of my shipmates, are positive that 
 he was not assassinated, as our captain states. 
 We distinctly saw the Arabs load his back with 
 plunder, and force him to carry it over the sand 
 hill. Afterwards, while at sea in our boat, it 
 was a subject of conversation amongst us, that 
 if we were all lost, as then seemed inevitable, 
 Antonio would be the only survivor to relate our 
 disaster, to our anxious friends, should he ever 
 return to his native country. 
 
 C2
 
 30 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 CHAP. III. ! 
 
 A consullavon — measures adopted to clear the surf- — we put to 
 sea in the long boat — alarms and distresses — stood out fou§ 
 days — stood in three days, and landed on the 5th Sept. 1815' 
 to the north of Cape Barbas, western coast of Africa. 
 
 WE were now all on board the wreck, except- 
 ing poor Antonio, whose fate was mentioned at 
 the close of the last chapter. A melancholy 
 consultation was held by the captain and crew. 
 Whether to go ashore and fall sudden victims to 
 the Arabs, or drag out a miserable existence of 
 slavery among them — or to entrust ourselves to 
 the foaming billows, with our shattered boat, 
 was a question, upon the decision of which hung, 
 perhaps,* " our life, our death — our bane, oar anti- 
 dote.'''' After long deliberation, we concluded 
 once more to attempt our escape by sea. The 
 weather had been moderating through the day — 
 the wind a. little shifted to the eastward, and the 
 surf had, in a degree, subsided. To make our 
 attempt with greater security, we rigged a spar 
 over the stern of the wreck, making fast a rope 
 to its outer end, to force the boat through the 
 surf, and give her a good head-way. We then 
 put aboard every thing we had received from 
 the wreck to begin our perilous voyage, which 
 the boat could contain, in her leaky condition. 
 These consisted of a few pieces of salt pork — a 
 live pig — which we took from the wreck to the 
 shore — and which, wonderful to relate, had vo- 
 luntarily swum from the shore to the wreck—
 
 R0BB1NS' JOURNAL. 31 
 
 about four gallons of water, a few pounds of figs, 
 soaked in salt water, and about a dozen bottles 
 of wine. We likewise had aboard our small 
 boat's sails, consisting of jib and main-sail, and 
 die fore-top-mast-stay-sail of the brig, and the 
 splitted planks, before mentioned, which were to 
 serve us for oars. 
 
 We now descended into the boat, out of which 
 Porter waded to the shore, and brought aboard 
 an oar which he found laying on the beach. Oi 
 his own accord, he went again on shore and 
 brought aboard about four or five hundred dol 
 lars which had before been buried. We now 
 fixed ourselves at the oars, and at the rope bend- 
 ed from the spar provided as before mentioned. 
 Capt. Riley placed himself at the stern of the 
 boat to steer her with a plank, she having no 
 rudder. We then, by an united effort, forced 
 ourselves through the surf without difficulty, and 
 passed off* into a smooth sea; This was accom- 
 plished at nearly sun-set. Capt. Riley returned 
 thanks to Heaven, in v ich we all joined with 
 uncovered heads, and, 1 trust, with sincere 
 hearts, for our safe escape from the shore and 
 JVom the surf. Darkness now approached ; and 
 cape Bajador being under our lee, the wind be- 
 ing partly ahead, we were under the most fear- 
 ful apprehension lest we could not clear the 
 cape. We spent the whole night in rowing and 
 bailing, until our strength and fortitude were al- 
 most exhausted. At day-light, however, we were 
 greatly rejoiced to find ourselves to the leeward 
 of this fatal cape. It was like the transition from 
 expected destruction to hoped-for safety.
 
 32 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 On the morning of the 30th August, we ran 
 moderately down the coast to the S. W. ; during 
 which time we were in consultation upon the 
 question, whether we should run down to the 
 Senegal river, upon which there is an European 
 settlement near its mouth, or stand off, and en- 
 deavour to make some of the Canary Islands. 
 The objections to going to the first mentioned 
 place were, that we had no quadrant, no com- 
 pass, and no chart of the coast. A further ob- 
 jection was, that if, in the night season, we should 
 pass the Senegal and Cape Verd, without dis- 
 covering either, we should then be in the open 
 sea without any hopes. On the other hand, it 
 was said, if we should stand of£ and attempt to 
 make some of the Canaries, we should, with 
 more likelihood, fall in with some European ves- 
 sels. We concluded to alter our course, and 
 stand off for the Canaries. We this day put 
 ourselves upon allowance, viz. — one bottle of 
 water and h ilf a bottle of wine amongst eleven 
 of us, this being the whole crew. We also al 
 lowanced ourselves to two figs each ; the pork 
 not being particularly allowanced. We endea- 
 voured to secure the boat from the breaking in 
 of the sea, by fitting around her gunwale, waste- 
 clothes about eight inches above it, composed of 
 a part of the fore-stay- sail. We had a fresh 
 breeze from N. E. during the day, and kept her 
 close upon the wind ; but made but little head- 
 way, our sails being small, and a considerable 
 sea running, which drifted us fast to the lee- 
 ward. 
 
 On the 31st of August the weather moderated
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 3'S 
 
 We were in no immediate danger from the sea. 
 notwithstanding our boat was in a most shatter- 
 ed condition, and we continued to stand out. 
 Our pig, for the want of necessary sustenance, 
 began to grow thin, and we concluded to kill 
 him, while he was yet in an eatable state. His 
 blood we carefully preserved to quench our 
 thirst. His intestines we devoured for the same 
 purpose. It was the painful sensations of thirst 
 that we most dreaded ; and to guard against it. 
 we began to preserve our own urine, securing it 
 in the bottles we had before emptied of their 
 contents. As the night came on, it threatened 
 darkness, and squally weather. The wind blew 
 strong from the N. E. and by midnight the sea 
 ran so high as nearly to fill the boat. We en- 
 deavored, with every instrument in our posses- 
 sion, to bail her ; our buckets, our hats, and ev- 
 ery thing that would hold water, were used for 
 this purpose ; and although we all expected that 
 every returning surge would send us to the bot- 
 tom, we succeeded in keeping our boat alive un- 
 til morning. No one can judge of our peril ex- 
 cepting those who have experienced something 
 similar. The rocking of the boat had drawn 
 most of her nails. We saw nothing of the dis- 
 mal gloom that surrounded us, excepting what 
 was presented to our affrightened view by the 
 vivid lightning which kept constantly flashing. 
 We could derive hope from no source but from 
 the interposition of an over-ruling God, whose 
 voice we hear in the thunder, and whose arrows 
 we see in the lightning, and even this was de- 
 spaired of. Capt. Riley and Mr. Savage alter
 
 34 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 nately prayed with us, which had considerable 
 effect in allaying our fears, and encouraging our 
 dying hopes. 
 
 Day-light at length appeared, on the morning 
 of the 1st September. No painter could ade- 
 quately have described the appearance of this 
 gloomy group of human beings. Despair was 
 depicted upon every countenance, and fortitude 
 deserted every heart. We supposed we were 
 about to lose our last hold upon life, so dear to 
 us all ; and as our fate seemed remediless, we 
 submitted to its decrees in silent horror. Soon 
 after, however, the weather moderated consi- 
 derably, and the wind hauled about to N. N. W. 
 We continued to stand off; but we relinquished 
 ali hopes of fetching any of the Canaries, and 
 our only remaining hope was of falling in with 
 some sail that might be running down near where 
 we were situated. Our thirst increased to a de- 
 gree almost intolerable, and the scorching rays 
 of the sun, being within the torrid zone, were 
 nearly insupportable. We relieved our parch- 
 ed and thirsty frames a little, by making use oi 
 a few drops of wine and water, and the urine 
 we had preserved. 
 
 On the 2d, we continued to stand out for a 
 considerable part of the day. Capt. Riley, with 
 all the rest of us, gave up all hopes of descrying 
 a sail ; our provisions and water were growing 
 short ; our strength began to fail with our hopes, 
 and by an unanimous voice, we concluded to 
 stand in for the shore ; lest, by getting farther 
 out at sea, we should be wholly unable, from 
 <he state of the boat, our provisions, and our
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 35 
 
 strength, to stand the sea or reach any shore 
 whatever. We then, towards evening, put her 
 head towards the coast, which we had left, and 
 judging by the sun, began to steer a S. E. course. 
 
 On the 3d of September, standing in, we were 
 favoured with a fair wind, nothing very material 
 occurring. Dismal as the prospect before us 
 appeared, horrid as the recollection of the coast 
 we had left was to our minds, we still felt a kind 
 of desperate satisfaction in returning to it. Des- 
 perate, indeed, was the choice, as I trust my rea- 
 ders will find in the sequel of this Journal. 
 
 During the 4th, standing in, we were on the 
 constant look-out for land, and feeling the deep- 
 est anxiety to discover it. The day passed off, 
 and we beheld nothing but the surrounding 
 ocean, expecting every hour to be swallowed up 
 by it. We subsisted, as we before had done, 
 without any water excepting a little urine to wet 
 our parched lips, and stiffened tongues. In the 
 night season, we obtained a little rest during the 
 short intervals afforded us from the duty of row- 
 ing and bailing the boat. 
 
 On the morning of the 5th, we discovered land 
 at a great distance to leeward. Why we should 
 have rejoiced at beholding a coast from which 
 we had so recently escaped with our bare lives, 
 is difficult to determine. But, in the elegant 
 language of the Poet — " JVhen grief overpowers 
 us, a twine may lead us." The current drove us 
 rapidly towards the shore. As we approached 
 it, we found it bounded by perpendicular rocks, 
 rising in majestic and destructive grandeur. 
 We could discover no aperture, through which
 
 36 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 we might pass for some time. At length we saw 
 something that had the appearance of a sand 
 bank. We made for it with all our little strength; 
 and, exerting ourselves with our oars, and rising 
 upon a wave that elevated us mountain high, 
 we were carried on to a beach of sand of very 
 small extent. As the wave retired we surveyed, 
 in silent astonishment, the yawning grave of 
 rocks we had just escaped. They looked like 
 the jaws of a natural sepulchre, and we consi-* 
 dered ourselves as rescued by Almighty power 
 from the grave they seemed to have formed to 
 receive our emaciated bodies. Thus, after se- 
 ven days perilous navigation, in our frail boat, 
 four days standing out and three standing in, we 
 landed. Having stated that we were in the boa( 
 seven days, I must add, that this is according to 
 my best recollection. During the time we were 
 out, we little thought of reckoning days, when 
 we all the while thought our last day had come; 
 and it is from the most mature reflection that I 
 have fixed it at the number of days mentioned. 
 It would not be singular, after all, if a mistake, 
 in this respect, should be made. 
 
 The place, where we thus landed, was to the 
 northward of cape Barbas ; and between that 
 cape and the river St. Cyprian, being at this time 
 entirely dry ; the coast running from E. N. E. to 
 W. S. W. While Capt. Riley and Mr. Savage 
 were seeking a passage to the land above the 
 rocks, we made all the preparation we could for 
 a night's repose, after having exerted all the re- 
 maining strength we had in digging for water in 
 the sand, without finding it. They returned ,-
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL 37 
 
 and after partaking with us of a little refresh- 
 ment, we committed our bodies to our bed of 
 sand, and enjoyed undisturbed repose until 
 morning. We then opened our eyes, and found 
 ourselves again upon the land of barbarians!! 
 
 I had been taught in early life to believe in 
 the doctrine of an overruling Providence ; that 
 the destiny of men is in His hands, and that, " it 
 is not in man that walketh to direct his own steps" 
 I was most sensibly convinced of the truth of 
 these positions at this time. Although one mis- 
 fortune had trod close upon the heel of another, 
 for some years previous, until after a great va- 
 riety of calamities I was now reduced to one 
 which must be the greatest, excepting death, we 
 can endure on earth, and which no possible 
 change but that could make worse, I still felt the 
 most perfect submission. Whether it arose from 
 Christian humility, or from that kind of apathy, 
 from long misfortune, which brings the minds of 
 men to feel a contempt for even fate itself, I can- 
 not certainly tell ; but this I can assuredly say, 
 I felt not the least disposition to murmur or re- 
 pine at my fate, however awful it was, or might 
 become. 
 
 D
 
 38 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Brief historical sketch of the discoveries upon the African conti- 
 nent — origin of present European nations, and African tribes 
 — Canary Islands — Cape Bajador — Porto Santo — Madeira — 
 Cape Verd — Cape of Good Hope — De Gama — Columbus — 
 East-Indies — America — Coast of Africa — Interior of Africa. 
 
 THE readers of this Journal found the author 
 of it, at the end of the last chapter, cast a second 
 time, with his shipmates in misfortune, upon the 
 western coast of Africa, and upon that part of it 
 where the wandering Arabs inhabit. He wishes 
 to relieve himself, and his readers, from the con- 
 tinued detail of human misery ; and thinks he 
 cannot do it better than by giving, very briefly, 
 what scanty historical and geographical infor- 
 mation he can collect concerning this quarter of 
 the globe. 
 
 Although Africa holds the third rank in point 
 of size among the four great continents that con- 
 stitute our globe, in a moral, political, and com- 
 mercial point of view, it is decidedly inferior to 
 them all. While the continents of Europe and 
 America have been making rapid progress in 
 civilization, the arts and sciences, Asia may be 
 said to have been, for the most part, stationary, 
 and Africa retrograding. While the arts that 
 conduce to the comfort of man, and the sciences 
 that expand and elevate his mind, have, in the 
 former, been advanced almost to perfection ; in 
 many parts of the latter, the same degree of bar- 
 barism prevails now, as prevailed at the birth
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 39 
 
 oi" our Saviour. Indeed, for a considerable time 
 before the Christian aera, the Persians, Medes, 
 and Romans, had large and beautiful settlements 
 upon the Niger, and in different parts of the 
 African continent. But upon the subversion of 
 the Roman empire, in the fifth century, when 
 the northern hive broke loose, and was precipi- 
 tated upon Europe, the Goths, Vandals, Franks, 
 Ostrogoths, Visigoths, and other barbarous tribes, 
 made a war of extermination against civilized 
 man, and of destruction against all the produc- 
 tions of the arts and sciences. The Vandals, 
 always taking the lead in barbarity, passed from 
 Spain into Africa, converted some of the most 
 populous places in this continent to a barren 
 wilderness, held uncontrolled dominion in all 
 the north part of this continent for more than a 
 century and were at last compelled to surren- 
 der a country which they had thus ruined, to the 
 Mahometan Arabs, or Moors, who now, under 
 different names, form the principal part of its 
 population. 
 
 This immense continent, which has so long 
 been the theatre of suffering humanity, is bound- 
 ed north by the Mediterranean sea, having Eu- 
 rope on the north ; west by the Atlantic ocean, 
 having America on the west ; south, by the 
 southern ocean ; east, by the Indian ocean, the 
 Red sea, and part of Asia, to which it is united 
 by the Isthmus of Suez, about sixty miles in 
 breadth. This immense peninsula in shape re- 
 sembles a triangle ; its east and west sides be- 
 ing very irregular. From Cape Bona, on the 
 Mediterranean, to the Cape of Good Hope, on
 
 10 ROBBINS' JOURNAL, 
 
 the southern ocean, it comprehends seventy de- 
 grees of latitude, or about 4875 miles ; and from 
 Cape Verd 17° 33' W. long, to Cape Guardafui, 
 51° 2& E. long, it is something more than 4790 
 miles. 
 
 It is within the knowledge of every historian, 
 that the present nations of Europe owe their 
 origin to some one of the barbarous nations who 
 overturned the Roman empire, about the middle 
 of the fifth century. Breaking forth in myriads 
 from the frozen regions of Scandinavia, where 
 they had become inured to every hardship and 
 privation, and pouring their countless legions 
 upon the fertile, highly cultivated and delight- 
 ful countries, bordering upon the Mediterranean, 
 they lost the ardor of conquest, and the thirst 
 for discoveries. The Ostrogoths and Visigoths, 
 took to themselves the beautiful regions of Italy 
 and Naples. The Gauls and Franks possessed 
 themselves of France. The Moors, who came 
 from the east, established themselves in Spain 
 and Portugal. The Saxons overran the exten- 
 sive German empire, including Prussia and Po- 
 land. This, the most brave, magnanimous and 
 warlike of the northern clans, afterwards passed 
 over to England. From them Americans may 
 trace their origin. They continue to be brave 
 and magnanimous, and, when necessary, can be 
 warlike. 
 
 Although many of these tribes inhabited coun- 
 tries but a short distance from the continent of 
 Africa, yet so completely had they destroyed 
 every vestige of the arts and sciences, and with 
 them so effectually checked the progressing
 
 K0BB1NS' JOURNAL 41 
 
 knowledge of navigation, commencing the pe- 
 riod which has been denominated the " dark 
 i*ges," that this continent for a long period of 
 time, remained to them, and to the rest of the 
 world, almost unknown. At length the mari- 
 ner's compass was invented; and about the mid- 
 dle of the fourteenth century, (1344) the Canary 
 islands, near the western coast of Africa were 
 discovered, and, by the Pope, erected into a 
 kingdom, and bestowed upon a royal Castilian. 
 The ardor for penetrating unexplored regions 
 revived ; and the fifteenth century may be call- 
 ed the age of discovery. The Portuguese led 
 the van in the path of navigating glory. An ar- 
 mament was fitted out by John I. of Portugal to 
 attack the Moors, who had possessed themselves 
 of the Barbary coast in Africa. The vessels 
 that were sent forward to explore, proceeded as 
 far as Cape Bajador, the dreadful place where 
 Capt. Riley and his crew r met their fate. This 
 was 160 miles beyond the voyages of former 
 navigators. The dreadful breakers, dashing 
 upon the impending cliffs near that Cape, de- 
 terred them from approaching the coast, and 
 they returned. Henry, son of John I. soon after 
 fitted out a vessel, and entrusted the command 
 to two gentlemen of his own household. Timi- 
 dity made them merely coasters ; but a gale of 
 wind drove them out to sea, and they acciden- 
 tally discovered Porto Saato. The next year, 
 he sent out three vessels to take possession of 
 that island, and from that they discovered a 
 fixed spot in the horizon ; and upon approach- 
 ing it, thev found it to be the island of Madeira, 
 
 D2
 
 42 ROBB1NS' JOURNAL. 
 
 so well known to our countrymen. Soon after. 
 the dreaded Cape Bajador was doubled ; and 
 in a few years after they discovered the river 
 Senegal, and the coast from Cape Blanco to 
 Cape Verd, and, in 1446, the Cape de Verd 
 islands. The equinoctial line was soon after 
 passed ; and Benin, Congo and Guinea, were 
 discovered in succession. The Portuguese mo- 
 narch, animated to enthusiasm by this success, 
 and thinking there must be a southern termina- 
 tion to the African continent, despatched Bar- 
 tholomey Diaz to find it. He accomplished the 
 object ; but dared not approach the threatening 
 promontory, which he named Cabo Tormentoso. 
 or Stormy Cape. But the king, knowing that 
 he had found a passage to India, gave it the 
 name of the Cape of Good Hope. Towards the 
 close of this century, (15th) he despatched a 
 nobleman by the name of Vasquez de Gama, to 
 double this Cape, and if possible proceed to In- 
 dia. He accomplished this great object, and 
 landed in India the 22d of May, 1498, and re- 
 turned to Lisbon the 14th of September, 1499, 
 about seven years after Columbus had disco- 
 vered the continent of America. 
 
 The coast of Africa had now been thoroughly 
 explored, while the interior was known only by 
 the barbarians who inhabited it ; to the geo- 
 grapher, it was nothing but a vastly extended 
 blank ; and it remained so until near the close 
 of the 18th century. The reason for this may 
 probably be found in the fact that all the great 
 enterprises, set on foot for the discovery of un- 
 known regions, have generally proceeded from
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 43 
 
 a desire to accumulate wealth, or augment pow- 
 er ; and the accumulation of the one is general- 
 ly an augmentation of the other. The unpro- 
 misingappearance of the coast of Africa afforded 
 but little encouragement to the ambition of mo- 
 narchs, or the cupidity of merchants. To this 
 it may be added, that De Gama, by discovering 
 a passage to India round the Cape of Good 
 Hope, had unfolded to European merchants the 
 inexhaustible stores of wealth embosomed in 
 that quarter of the globe. Columbus at the 
 same time discovered a New World. The mines 
 of Potosi and Peru were beginning to pour forth 
 their rich contents into the coffers of European 
 monarchs, and to stimulate the avarice of Euro- 
 pean merchants. To these, as the leading causes, 
 may probably be imputed the ignorance in which 
 the world remains of the interior of the conti- 
 nent of Africa to this day. 
 
 We have, to be sure, a few books of travels in 
 this continent. But they are the productions of 
 individuals, whose romantic desire to obtain in- 
 formation led them to encounter every hazard, 
 and surmount every danger. We can hardly 
 expect a correct delineation of a country, or a 
 description of its inhabitants, institutions, man- 
 ners, and customs, by a solitary wanderer, who 
 is every moment in danger of death. Surely, 
 that head is poorly calculated to treasure up 
 facts and detail them to the world, which is lia- 
 ble every hour to be taken from the shoulders. 
 The travels of Vaillant, of Norden, and of Bruce, 
 and what little of Park's is published, have been 
 carefully examined by the writer of this Journal,
 
 44 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 with a view of enriching it with interesting ex- 
 tracts therefrom. But the design is relinquish- 
 ed, as they give us no information concerning 
 the wandering Arabs, or of the immense desert 
 of Zahara which comprehends a great propor- 
 tion of the interior of North Africa. It may here 
 be remarked, that we can expect correct infor- 
 mation of this desert and of the Arabs, from none 
 but European or American slaves. The travel- 
 ler, who is in pursuit of this knowledge, is in 
 hourly danger of death or slavery. The slave 
 is safe in the hands of his master. With him he 
 traverses the desert ; with him he reposes in a 
 tent. Having leisure, he can record in safety 
 the peculiarities of this peculiar people. If he 
 becomes a slave to a settled resident in some of 
 the towns, he can describe that, and the cus- 
 toms of the people. The author of this Journal 
 was in both these situations, and hopes to give 
 a correct account of this part of Africa, or that 
 part of it which he saw. 
 
 But I cannot omit to incorporate into this work 
 *ome portion of the doings of an " Association 
 for promoting the discovery of the interior parts of 
 Africa" This association was formed in Eng- 
 land by a number of gentlemen of rank and 
 learning, in the year 1788. The first adven- 
 turer that entered into its service, and proceed- 
 ed upon a tour of discovery in Africa, was one 
 of our own countrymen by the name of Led- 
 yard. 
 
 The daring enterprise of Americans has been 
 known to the world, and by the world applaud- 
 ed, ever since Englishmen became known by
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 45 
 
 that name. Although the Portuguese first be- 
 gan the business of discovery, it was left for 
 Americans and Englishmen to complete it ; and 
 from what they have already accomplished, it 
 may be rationally expected, that the ardent spi- 
 rit of discovery will not subside so long as an 
 ocean or sea remains untraversed, or any por- 
 tion of the earth continues unexplored. Our 
 countryman, the indefatigable Ledyard, had 
 been long engaged in traversing unknown seas, 
 and exploring unknown countries, without the 
 aid of governments, or the assistance of private 
 munificence. He became known to this asso- 
 ciation, was adopted as their agent, and employ- 
 ed to accomplish their splendid objects. The 
 readers of this volume will be better gratified 
 by an account of this American, from the doing* 
 of this association, than from the imperfect man- 
 ner in which it would be given by the writer ; 
 it is, therefore, presented in their own lan- 
 guage :— 
 
 " Scarcely was this society instituted, when 
 two gentlemen were engaged in the advance- 
 ment of these schemes of discovery, whose ta- 
 lents and courage eminently qualified them for 
 such an arduous service. One of them named 
 Ledyard, by birth an American, feeling from his 
 earliest youth an irresistible desire to explore 
 those regions of the globe, which were undisco- 
 vered, or imperfectly known, had passed seve- 
 ral years among the Indians in America, study- 
 ing their manners and habits, and had thus 
 learned how to recommend himself to the favor 
 and protection of savages. He had accompa-
 
 46 BOBBINS' JOUBNAL. 
 
 nied Capt. Cook in his voyage round the world, 
 descending to the humble situation of corporal 
 of marines, rather than forego an opportunity so 
 inviting to his inquisitive and adventurous spi- 
 rit. He next resolved to traverse the continent 
 of America, from the north-west coast which 
 Cook had partly explored, to the eastern coast, 
 with which he himself was already perfectly fa- 
 miliar. Disappointed in his intention of sailing 
 in a voyage of commercial adventure to Nootka 
 Sound, he crossed the British Channel to Os- 
 tend, with only ten guineas in his purse ; de- 
 termined to travel over land to Kamschatka, 
 whence the passage is short to the western 
 coast of America. When he came to the 
 Gulf of Bothnia, he attempted to cross it on 
 the ice, that he might reach Kamschatka by the 
 shortest way ; but finding that the water was 
 not frozen in the middle, he returned to Stock- 
 holm ; travelled northward into the arctic cir- 
 cle; and passing round the head of the gulf. 
 descended on its eastern side to Petersburgh. 
 There his extraordinary appearance attracted 
 general notice. Wfthout stockings or shoes, and 
 too poor to provide himself with either, he was 
 invited to dine with the Portuguese Ambassa- 
 dor, who supplied him with twenty guineas on 
 the credit of Sir Joseph Banks, and through his 
 interest he obtained permission to accompany 
 a detachment of stores which was to be sent to 
 Yakutz, for the use of Mr. Billings, an English- 
 man, who was entrusted with the schemes of 
 northern discovery, in which the Empress was 
 (hen engaged.
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 17 
 
 " From Yakutz, which is situated in Siberia, 
 bOOO miles east of Petersburgh, he proceeded 
 Jo Oczakow, on the Kamschatkan sea ; but as 
 the navigation was completely obstructed by the 
 ice, he returned to Yakutz, intending to wait for 
 the conclusion of the winter. Here, in conse- 
 quence of some unaccountable suspicion, he was 
 seized in the name of the Empress by two Rus- 
 sian soldiers, who conveyed him, in the depth 
 of winter, through the north of Tartary, to the 
 frontier of the Polish dominions ; assuring him 
 at their departure, that if he returned to Russia 
 he should certainly be hanged ; but if he chose 
 to return to England, they wished him a plea- 
 sant journey. Poor, forlorn, and friendless, co- 
 vered with rags, and exhausted by hardships, 
 disease, and misery, he proceeded to Konigs- 
 burg, where the interest of Sir Joseph Banks 
 enabled him to procure the sum of five guineas, 
 by means of which he arrived in England. He 
 waited immediately on Sir Joseph, who, know- 
 ing his disposition, informed him that he could 
 recommend him to an adventure as perilous as 
 that from which he had just returned, and com- 
 municated to him the views of the association 
 for discovering the inland countries of Africa. 
 
 " Ledyard entered with enthusiasm into an 
 enterprise which he had already projected for 
 himself; and receiving from Sir Joseph a letter 
 of introduction to one of the members of the 
 committee appointed to direct the business, and 
 promote the object of the association, he went 
 to him without delay. The description which 
 that gentleman has given of their first interview
 
 48 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 strongly marks the character of this hardy tra- 
 veller. " Before I had learned," says he, " from 
 the note, the name and business of my visiter, 1 
 was struck with the manliness of his person, the 
 breadth of his chest, the openness of his coun- 
 tenance, and the inquietude of his eye. I spread 
 the map of Africa before him, and tracing a line 
 from Cairo to Sennaar, and from thence west- 
 ward in the latitude and supposed direction of 
 the Niger, I told him that was the route by 
 which I was anxious that Africa might, if possi- 
 ble, be explored. He said he should think him- 
 self singularly fortunate to be entrusted with the 
 adventure. I asked him when he would set out? 
 To-morrow morning, was his answer." From 
 such zeal, decision, and intrepidity, the society 
 naturally formed the most sanguine expecta- 
 tions. 
 
 "Mr. Ledyard sailed from London on the 30th 
 of June, 1788, and in thirty-six days, seven of 
 which were spent in Paris and two at Marseilles, 
 arrived in the city of Alexandria ; and having 
 there assumed the dress, and been instructed 
 in the manners requisite for an Egyptian travel- 
 ler, proceeded to Cairo, which he reached on 
 the 19th day of August. Ledyard travelled with 
 peculiar advantages. Endowed with an origi- 
 nal and comprehensive genius, he beheld with 
 interest, and described with energy, the scenes 
 and objects around him; and by comparing 
 them with what he had seen in other regions of 
 the globe, he was enabled to give his narrative 
 all the varied effect of contrast and resemblance. 
 His remarks on lower Egypt, had that country
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 49 
 
 been less generally known, might have ranked 
 with the most valuable of geographical records, 
 and greatly heightened the opinion which his 
 employers already entertained of his singular 
 qualifications for the task which he had under- 
 taken. Nor was his residence in Cairo altojce- 
 ther useless to the association. By visiting the 
 •<lave markets, and by conversing with the Iclabs. 
 or travelling merchants of the caravans, he ob- 
 tained, without any expense, a better idea of the 
 people of Africa, of its trade, of the position of 
 places, the nature of the country, and the man- 
 ner of travelling, than he could, by any other 
 means, have acquired : and the communication? 
 oji these subjects, which he transmitted to Eng- 
 land, interesting and instructing as they were* 
 atfbrded the society the most gratifying proofs 
 of the ardent spirit of inquiry, the unwearied at- 
 tention, the persevering research and the labo- 
 rious, indefatigable, anxious zeal with which 
 their author pursued the object of their mis 
 sion." 
 
 This interesting and elegant account of our 
 wonderful countryman is extracted from the 
 * 4 Proceedings of the African Association" for 1790 
 It is incorporated into this volume with the high 
 est pleasure, as it is an encomium, derived from 
 our enemy, in favour of one of our native coun- 
 trymen; from an enemy too, who have always 
 used the small arms of the pen, and the artillery 
 o( the press, to diminish American genius — 
 American courage — and American greatness. 
 
 This indefatigable association continued their 
 laudable exertions. Mr. Lucas sailed for the 
 
 E
 
 50 ROKBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 African continent in October, the same year 
 with Ledyard. In 1790, Major Houghton was 
 employed in the same enterprise. In 1795, the 
 celebrated Mungo Park began to explore the 
 continent of Africa. Mr. Hernemann, a Ger- 
 man, followed in 1797. 
 
 We might extend this chapter by giving short 
 biographical sketches of these celebrated ad- 
 venturers, but we now return to our Journal ; — 
 intending, in a future part of it. to give a brief 
 Geographical view of Africa, embracing the prin- 
 cipal places described by these travellers, and 
 what may be gathered from other authentic 
 sources. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Passage from Cape Barbas — mutualpledge — the coast — crossiiig 
 precipice — projecting rock — watery cavern — view of Zahara 
 — sleeping on hill — prayer — capture by Arabs, and separa- 
 tion. 
 
 AFTER having given our readers a com- 
 pressed historical account of Africa, derived 
 from the most authentic sources, we now return 
 to the melancholy Journal of individual suffer- 
 ings in this quarter of the globe. They were 
 enduredby the authorfor about nineteen months, 
 that is to say, from the 5th day of September, 
 1815, when he landed from the boat near Cape 
 Barbas, until the 8th day of April. 1817, — when 
 the author left this quarter of the globe to return 
 to America, that quarter of it in which he had 
 his birth.
 
 KOI3B1NS 1 JOURNAL. i>l 
 
 Alter we ran our boat ashore, as mentioned, 
 north of Cape Barbas, our first object was to se- 
 cure what provisions we had remaining. It had 
 been many days since we ate bread ; the wreck 
 of the brig having ruined the whole, excepting 
 what we got ashore at Cape Bajador, and that 
 was soon consumed. Our wine was also ex- 
 hausted, the last bottle having been drank just be- 
 fore we made our landing in the little sand beach 
 among the rocks. We still had a little water, 
 and some salt pork remaining ; but could not 
 transport them, together with our clothing, when 
 ascending and descending rocks, whose perpen- 
 dicular position and ragged sides seemed to de- 
 fy the approach of human footsteps. We knew 
 the impossibility of doing this from a view of the 
 precipices that surrounded us, — and we left all 
 our clothing excepting what covered our bodies 
 — cut from our pork all that was lean — buried 
 and threw away every piece of money in our 
 possession, at the suggestion of Capt. Riley. 
 Most of us made small sacks out of the sail we 
 had in the boat, with a pen-knife and some rope 
 yarn. In \hese we deposited each of us a small 
 quantity of fit pork and a porter bottle filled 
 with water, it being all we had now remaining, 
 excepting one extra bottle which we drank up- 
 on starting on our uncertain and hazardous jour- 
 ney. We now came to a solemn agreement to 
 remain together as long as possible, and to ren- 
 der to each other every kind office in our power. 
 It was not merely common danger that made us 
 friends ; we had become attached to each other 
 by previous sufferings and mutual favors. As
 
 .rZ ROBBINS" JOURNAL. 
 
 we were doomed soon to be separated under 
 circumstances the most painful to the human 
 feelings, I must be indulged in naming the whole 
 crew. James Riley, captain — George Williams, 
 chief mate — Aaron R. Savage, second mate, all 
 of Middletown; William Porter, James Barrett, 
 and John Hogan, of Massachusetts, near Port- 
 land ; Thomas Burns, of Lyme ; James Clarke, 
 of Hartford ; and myself, seamen. Horace Sa- 
 vage, cabin-boy, of Middletown ; and Richard 
 Deslile, (man of colour) cook, of Hartford. Mr. 
 Williams, Barrett, Hogan, Antonio, and Deslile. 
 (called Dick) still remained unheard of, and pro- 
 bably are either starved, assassinated, or remain 
 in bondage, from which the rest of us, heaven 
 be praised, have escaped. 
 
 On the 6th of Sept. we started, scarcely know- 
 ing what object we had in view. We resolved, 
 however, to follow the coast, hoping to espy 
 some sail at sea — hoping to find water — hoping 
 to reach the wreck — and hoping *o find some- 
 thing more in it to sustain life a little longer ; 
 having at the same time no expectation of seeing 
 either of those hopes realized ; am£ in this we 
 were not disappointed ; we were defeated in ail 
 of them. 
 
 Porter and myself usually kept forward, some 
 times seeing our companions in the rear, and 
 sometimes they were hidden from us by project- 
 ing rocks. It is impossible for a stranger to this 
 dreadful coast to conceive of the danger and 
 fatigue we endured in this journey. Occasion- 
 ally we found a short distance of beach on which 
 we could walk without difficulty ; we were then
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 53 
 
 opposed by rocks projecting into the sea, upon 
 which a surf was constantly beating. We had 
 to wait for the surf to retire, and then clamber 
 over the rock. For many rods we were obliged 
 to ascend upon the broken cliffs of the rocks, 
 the surge beating upon the base of them below 
 in a manner calculated to make despair take the 
 place of hope. During this day, we came to a 
 narrow projection from, the almost perpendicu- 
 lar rock, for nearly thirty rods in length : not 
 much wider than a stone step. It was our only- 
 passage. It was as much as fifty feet above the 
 surf below, and rising as many as five hundred 
 feet above our heads. He must be something 
 more or less than man, who could pass this track 
 with unconcern. Porter and 1 being far ahead, 
 found a small passage into the rock, where we 
 could remain with safety, and we waited till the 
 rest came up. The water had worn a hole in- 
 to the rock, nearly in shape of a common kettle, 
 which was filled with warm water. We bathed 
 our heads in it which greatly refreshed us. We 
 were soon joined by our whole party, who did 
 the same, with the same effect. We continued 
 to o-rope our way along the rocks until dark, 
 when we came to a projecting one, around which 
 we had to wade, or swim through the surf. We 
 then ascended a cliff, and to our great joy, found 
 a place where we could repose. It ought to be 
 here mentioned, that all the way we saw fresh 
 dung, and tracks of animals, and during the ni^ht 
 heard their howling ; but we neither of us this 
 day or night saw any animal. We lay down to 
 rest with our clothes soaked, after eating a little 
 
 f 
 
 E2
 
 54 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 raw pork and quenching our thirst with a sip of 
 water. Notwithstanding our constant and un- 
 wearied exertions, we could not have travelled 
 more than five miles during the whole of this 
 day, judging from the objects in our rear which 
 we had passed, and a harder day's travel was 
 never made by man. 
 
 On the morning of the 7th of September, we 
 found ourselves stiffened and almost unable to 
 move from having slept the preceding night, 
 which was chilly, in the open air, with wet 
 clothes. In the morning we partook of the only 
 food in our possession — cutting a thin slice of 
 raw pork from what remained, and water enough 
 only to wet our mouths. With this little nour- 
 ishment, and with our debilitated bodies, we be- 
 gan our second day's journey. The difficulty of 
 travelling was not diminished, but rather in- 
 creased. We shortly came to a rock which pro- 
 jected a great distance over the sea. The water 
 had worn under it from fifty to sixty feet; and the 
 cliffs that had broken from the rock above, lay, in 
 great masses, in the surf below. It seemed to us 
 impossible to pass: but we resolved to attempt 
 the dreadful passage. We let ourselves down 
 from rock to rock until we reached those lying in 
 the surf, and clinging to the one upon which we 
 alighted, the dreadful surf broke over us with 
 all its violence. As the sea went out. we snatch- 
 ed the opportunity to pass a short distance over 
 these craggy rocks, tearing our bodies in a ter- 
 rible manner. In this way we travelled, from 
 rock to rock, and through surf after surf, I should 
 judge half a mile : in performing which we wer* 4
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 5.0 
 
 as many as three hours. At length the party all 
 came up, and we reached the sand beach which 
 we had before seen ahead. Had it not been at 
 low water, we could not have passed at all. For 
 most of this distance, the water had worn under 
 (he rocks, as near as we could judge, from sixty 
 to eighty feet, presenting to view a cavern, from 
 whose frightful aspect the heart recoiled with 
 horror. In this passage we found and ate a few 
 salt muscles, which, although they afforded some 
 nourishment, very much increased our thirst. 
 We also saw a large leopard ; the first live ani- 
 mal we had seen on the African coast, excepting 
 the camels, at Cape Bajador, where our calami- 
 ties commenced. It was about 10 o'clock when 
 we reached the beach. We immediately began 
 to dig for water, and having no implements to 
 do it with, we used our hands, scraping the sand 
 into our hats and throwing it to the top of the 
 well. Capt. Riley went in pursuit of a passage 
 to the world above the rocks, if, by good for- 
 tune, he could find one, and Ave continued to 
 dig, without the least effect, in various place? 
 for water. Capt. Riley gave us a gloomy ac- 
 count on his return, and his gloom was increas- 
 ed when he found that we had obtained no w r a- 
 ter. We all once more started, and at the end 
 of the beach, it being about noon, we w r ere com- 
 pletely exhausted. Nature could do no more — 
 we stretched ourselves upon the beacli — under 
 a shelving rock guarding us from the rays of the 
 sun. " Sleep, balmy sleep — nature's fond nurse, 
 sweet restorer," came to our relief; we repos- 
 ed, and our " senses were steeped in forgetful-
 
 £g ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 ness,'* for two hours. I will not attempt to de- 
 scribe my feelings at the time I awoke, for it could 
 hardly be said that I had any feelings. I had 
 become so inured to misery, that she had adopt- 
 ed me as her child, and I felt no disposition to 
 avoid her embrace. I knew I had done all I 
 could to rescue myself and assist my compa- 
 nions in escaping from the army of calamities 
 that surrounded us. This seemed to be a com- 
 mon sentiment among us. 
 
 Capt. Riley, in his pursuit of a passage over 
 the rocks, had discovered that there was a beach 
 for some ways ahead, and proposed that we 
 should make one effort more to find our way to 
 the land above, through this hitherto inaccessi- 
 ble precipice. With one accord we acceded 
 to the proposition, and were once more on the 
 march. We soon began to ascend, crawling up- 
 on our hands and knees, catching hold of every 
 substance that would assist us in dragging our 
 bodies forward. It was next to dragging our- 
 selves to the scaffold — it was like becoming our 
 own executioners. We at length ascended the 
 top of the precipice, and, O merciful Heaven! 
 what a prospect presented itself to our affright- 
 ed view! what despondency sunkinto our hearts! 
 Had we been called to meet the dangers of the sea. 
 or to fight the enemies of our country, we should. 
 J know, like true American sailors, have encoun- 
 tered them without dismay. But, after having 
 encountered and overcome almost all the varie- 
 ties of human misery ; after having rung all the 
 changes of calamity ; then to be cast upon a bar- 
 ren heath, a boundless plain, made up of burn-
 
 ItOBBINS' JOURNAL. 57 
 
 ing sand and flinty stones, producing neither a 
 green vegetable, or refreshing water ; there to 
 be famished with hunger, devoured by wild 
 beasts, or become slaves to the most merciless 
 of creatures that wear the form of man, was sure- 
 ly enough to appal the stoutest heart! It seem- 
 ed as if death was about to overtake us ; and the 
 outstretched plain before us seemed like the 
 great Golgotha of the human race. Casting our 
 eyes far to the southward, the plain, owing to 
 the striking of the rays of the sun upon the dried 
 sand, appeared like an immense lake. We even 
 thought of going in pursuit of it ; but having so 
 long been betrayed by the illusions of hope, this 
 ignis fatuus could not lead us. Some of us felt 
 a disinclination to move at all. Hogan, at the 
 mention of whose name I can hardly suppress a 
 falling tear, however, the first one who ventur- 
 ed upon the hawser as before mentioned, was 
 asked what it was best to do? He answer- 
 ed, with perfect apathy, « I don't know — but 
 what's the use of lying down to die as long 
 as we can stand up and walk." The fortitude 
 of a New-England sailor is certainly proverbial; 
 but we are told that a continual dropping will 
 wear away stones ; and as our bodies wasted. 
 our courage was diminished. We moved oil' in 
 a body, keeping in with the coast ; and as we 
 wandered near the edge of the precipice, we 
 were almost dizzied by the immense distance to 
 the roaring surge at the base, which continualh 
 beat and wasted its force upon this iron bound 
 coast. We occasionally saw a wild dry plant 
 resembling a wild parsnip, or fennel stalk, which
 
 58 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 we dug up out of the hard baked earth with 
 sharp stones and the knives we had with us. It 
 afforded but little nourishment to us, and from 
 the appearance of the earth around them, they 
 had been sought after and ate by wild beasts. 
 their tracks being visible around their roots. 
 We saw large heaps of muscle shells, and the 
 appearance of a former fire where they probably 
 had been roasted by the natives. Thus far, in 
 this day's travel, we had found but little sand, the 
 surface of the earth being chiefly covered with 
 sharp stones. But towards night, coming to a 
 more sandy ground, we discovered the tracks 
 of a camel and those of a large human foot, tra- 
 velling to the northward. These tracks appear- 
 ed to be recently made : indeed they must have 
 been, as the blowing of the dry sand would soon 
 have filled them up. This circumstance con- 
 vinced us that we were at no great distance 
 from some of the natives; and however terrible 
 was the reflection, we now felt anxious to fall in 
 with them, for we were famishing and thirsting 
 to death. We still had a few drops of water 
 remaining, with which we moistened our mouths, 
 after sitting down near the precipice, where we 
 enjoyed a cool breeze. After travelling a little 
 farther, we discovered a sandy beach ; the pre- 
 cipice suddenly diminishing and filling back 
 from the shore. We intended, if possible, to 
 make this beach, and there to spend the night. 
 It now became dark; and after travelling about 
 an hour we discovered the light of a fire at a 
 considerable distance ahead. This discovery 
 excited in our bosoms the mingled emotions of
 
 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 69 
 
 joy and fear— joy, that we might obtain some- 
 thing to satisfy the hunger that gnawed upon 
 our frames, and quench the thirst which was 
 parching us to powder — fear, that this reliei 
 would forever take from us the freedom which 
 we enjoyed with our misery. We descended, 
 with great difficulty, about halfway down to the 
 beach, and upon a steep side-hill, surrounded 
 by craoged rocks, we laid down upon the burn- 
 ing sand, after having scraped off the surface of 
 it to make a cooler bed, and also a guard to 
 prevent us from sliding down the hill. Here 
 we slept until morning; and upon awaking, 
 found ourselves chilled by the cold air and the 
 dews which prevail herein the night season, 
 notwithstanding the heat of the days. 
 
 The 8th of September had now come, a day 
 memorable in the calender of our crew ; for 
 upon this day we lost the exalted character of 
 freemen, and became the most degraded of 
 slaves. 
 
 About sun-rise we were all assembled upon 
 the sand bank upon which we had slept,. and in 
 a united manner, joined Mr. Savage (if I right- 
 ly recollect) in prayer. Standing uncovered 
 upon the declivity of the hill, with the boundless 
 ocean roaring on one side, and the immense de- 
 sert stretching out on the other, we poured out 
 our souls to that God who made them, implo- 
 ring His protection and support in whatever situ- 
 ation we might be placed, in whatever scenes 
 we might be called to act, and in whatever suf- 
 ferings we might be compelled to endure. We 
 then mutually pledged ourselves to each other,
 
 CO BOBBINS' JOUBNAL. 
 
 that, as we should undoubtedly very soon be en- 
 slaved by the Arabs, and probably separated 
 from each other, we would use every means to 
 effect our own and each other's release, that 
 should fall in our power; that if we could, by 
 any means, convey the intelligence of our situa- 
 tion to any Christian power, we would avail our- 
 selves of the opportunity. We now descended 
 the hill to the beach, and continued our course 
 along the same to the northeast. After proceed- 
 ing about two miles, as I judged, and rising a 
 small sand hill, we discovered at no great dis- 
 tance a drove of camels. We came to a sudden 
 stop, and upon consultation, some were for go- 
 ing on, others for lying by. We concluded that 
 this might be a caravan travelling to the north- 
 ward ; and might assist us on. We continued 
 to approach them ; and as we drew near, we 
 concluded there must have been as many as se- 
 venty or eighty of the natives. We were now 
 first discovered by six or seven of them, who had 
 wandered from the clan ; one of whom appear- 
 ed to be a middle aged man, and who afterwards 
 became Hogan's and Dick's master — the others 
 were two women, the rest being children. As 
 soon as they saw us, they run rapidly towards 
 us. We immediately fell upon our knees, and, 
 by signs, begging the man, who was armed with 
 a drawn scimitar, to spare our lives, and bestow 
 upon us a little water. The first request he 
 granted, but totally disregarded the second. 
 The women, ten times more ferocious in appear- 
 ance than the men, came up with the children, 
 and with the greatest violence, stripped off all
 
 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 6 J 
 
 our clotlies excepting trowsers. Some of us. 
 however, were stripped entirely naked, al- 
 though they left me my trowsers. The man, in 
 the mean time, was constantly brandishing his 
 fiaked scimitar around our heads, and darting it 
 towards our breasts, seeming impatient to see 
 us bleeding. The whole clan now discovered 
 us, and came rushing on with many of their ca- 
 mels. The manner of their approach defies de- 
 scription ; some were running on foot, armed 
 with spears, some on camels, some with musk- 
 ets, others with large clubs, others with scimi- 
 tars, and all seemed ai^jrious to be the first sha- 
 rers in the plunder, when alas, they could find no 
 plunder but our miserable bodies. As they came 
 up, those who had possessed themselves of all 
 our clothes, and of our persons also, began to 
 throw sand into the air, and hooting somewhat 
 like American savages. A contest now began 
 among themselves, of which we were spectators, 
 all contending for their right to us as slaves. 
 After this contest was ended, in which no lives 
 were lost, although much heathen blood was 
 shed, we were all led towards the well ; each 
 one of us having three or four Arabs hold of us, 
 forcing us on, and each of them contending for 
 his right to us, as his slave. We very soon reach- 
 ed the well, around which were a number of ves- 
 sels filled with water, in which the camels were 
 drinking. They were made of the skin of the 
 camel. The top of them was a circular hoop, 
 to which the skin was sewed, and which rested 
 on three legs. Between these legs, the skin 
 hung down in the shape of a common basket.
 
 ,52 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 holding generally about twenty gallons, from 
 which five or six camels drink at one time ; it 
 being supplied from the well until the camels 
 are satistied. As 1 came to the well, my mas- 
 ters released me from their grasp. I immediate- 
 ly plunged my head into the tub with the ca- 
 mels, to satisfy my raging thirst, regardless of 
 the vessel or of the kind of liquid I was drink- 
 ing. The camels were frightened by their new 
 companion, and began to retire ; the natives 
 immediately drove me away, and restored to 
 the camels, more humane than their masters, 
 their previous right. During this time there 
 seemed to be a contest among those who brought 
 me to the well, the object which was to deter- 
 mine to whom of right I belonged. They seized 
 me three or four at a time, and pulled me one 
 way and the other, with so much force, that I 
 concluded they were about to settle the dispute 
 by making an equal distribution of my body 
 among them. During this scene, in which I was 
 a passive actor, they kept constantly jabbering 
 very loud and with great earnestness. At length 
 one of them continued his hold, the rest having 
 surrendered me to him; and he now became 
 my sole master. His name was Ganus. He was 
 about five feet eight inches in height ; large and 
 raw boned, as is indeed the case with all the 
 wandering Arabs, and about forty years of age. 
 It had now become about eight o'clock in the 
 morning. My master led me off to his camels 
 stationed at a small distance, in the keeping of 
 two young women, who afterwards proved to be 
 his sisters. I here fell in with Mr. Savage, Mr
 
 BOBBINS' JOUK.NAJ.. 6. r > 
 
 Williams, and Barrett, who were situated neat 
 by. They informed me that they had been fur- 
 nished with a small supply of milk and water. 
 The girls then gave me some milk and water, in 
 a bowl, which 1 shared with my companions in 
 misery. The camels having been sufficiently 
 watered, and the goat skins having been filled, 
 preparations were made for a departure from 
 the well. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Separation of the crew — taking hare — departure into the desert 
 — mode of travelling— water— goat skin — arrival at a tent — 
 mode of making fire— cooking and eating— travelling upon 
 Zahara — Mahomedan worship — clothing. 
 
 September 8th, 1815. 
 
 FROM this day I date my slavery among the 
 Arabs, and my shipmates may also date theirs 
 from the same time. We were now all in the 
 possession of barbarian masters ; although it is 
 impossible forme to tell precisely how the crew 
 were distributed. Just before my master started, 
 which was between nine and ten o'clock, A. M. 
 I was permitted to take leave of Oapt. Riley and 
 all the crew, who were situated in different pla- 
 ces around the well, excepting Mr. Williams and 
 Barrett, who went off in company with me. As 
 it is wholly impossible to describe the feelings 
 of my bosom at this adieu, I will not attempt it. 
 More poignantly distressing they could not have 
 been, had I been about to leave this world for 
 another. It left me in a state of horror and an- 
 guish nhich I then thought I could not, but for
 
 04 ROBBINS" JOURNAL. 
 
 a short time, survive. I was mounted upon a ea 
 mel behind the hump, wholly destitute of cloth- 
 ing excepting my trowsers, and compelled to 
 steady myself by clinching the long hair upon 
 the hump, which is generally from four to sis 
 inches in length. The back of the camel, from 
 the hinder part of the protuberance upon it. 
 commonly called the hump, is entirely smooth : 
 the back bone extremely sharp, and the hip 
 bones projecting but a very little from the rump, 
 which slopes very steeply, so that it is utterh 
 impossible to keep your seat without inclining 
 the body far forward, and constantly holding on 
 by the long hair. The camels commonly used 
 for carrying baggage and passengers are from 
 twenty to twenty-five hands in height ; and al- 
 though in riding at full trot the naked body of 
 the miserable slave who is compelled to ride, is 
 excoriated and torn to pieces, a sudden fall from 
 them would endanger his life. If he falls nil' by 
 accident, or voluntarily slips from his painful 
 seat to relieve himself from excruciating torture. 
 he is left in the rear, and is driven up to the par- 
 ly who have gotten ahead, by the scimitar, the 
 ?pear, or the club of his master. After travel- 
 ling in this way for some miles, I began to won- 
 der why I had not been sunk in the ocean, pre- 
 cipitated from a rock, or in some sudden way 
 been deprived of that life winch now became a 
 burthen to me. My body was naked, excepting 
 my legs, under the almost vertical rays of the 
 sun, being within the torrid zone, or tropic of 
 Cancer, and my legs were constantly charing and 
 wearing away by constantly thumping upon the
 
 ROBJJLNS' JOURNAL. (5. r « 
 
 hard liips of an hard trotting camel. Poor beast, 
 thought I, we both have the same unfeeling mas 
 ter, and must both submit to the capricious ex- 
 ercise of that power which absolute authority 
 gives him, 1 almost imagined that the camel pi- 
 tied me ; and should have come to this conclu- 
 sion absolutely, had it not been from the prevail- 
 ing sentiment that men possessed more httih&nitij 
 than brides. How often are we in the habit of 
 making mistakes! The Arab is not the only 
 being, among ihose called rational, whose dire* 
 fill cruelty would make even a tiger weep. 
 
 After we had ascended the precipice, and had 
 gone some distance upon the plain, my master 
 left his camels, his baggage and me, in the keep- 
 ing of the girls, and joined the master of Mr. 
 Williams and Barrett. They knew that we must 
 have landed on this coast at no great distance oil: 
 and having asked me, by signs, where the boat 
 or vessel lay in which we were wrecked, I satis- 
 fied them by signs as well as I could. They now 
 both started upon a long trot, a camel seldom 
 galloping, and went in pursuit of the boat or 
 wreck. My master had about twenty camels, 
 and the master of Mr. Williams and Barrett 
 about the same number, and we were now all 
 joined in one party, in the keeping of the women 
 belonging to the two parties. We now proceed- 
 ed upon the plain towards (he interior, in a S. E 
 direction, travelling at full speed. We were 
 compelled to keep up with the party, and al- 
 though riding in the manner before described 
 was excessively painful, we were under the ne- 
 cessity of enduring it, as we could not on f«6t 
 
 F 2
 
 06 BOBBINS" JOURNAL. 
 
 do this. We however, occasionally dismount- 
 ed, and run a short distance on foot, to obtain a 
 little relief from our pain, occasioned by the hard 
 trotting of the camels. At about 2 o'clock, two 
 Arabs approached, with great speed, stole Mr. 
 Williams and Barrett from their keepers, in spite 
 of all their exertions to prevent it ; placed them 
 behind upon their camels, and made off to the 
 south; and, in a few minutes, were out of sight. 
 I was now left alone ; no human creature to as- 
 sociate with ; no bosom into which I could pour 
 my own sorrows. My captain and shipmates 
 were all dispersed, and in different hands ; and 
 I was left, without any spectator of my distress- 
 es, excepting the wretches who took delight in 
 increasing them. The girls now stripped oft 
 my trowsers, and gave me, in exchange, a strip 
 of old blanket, about eighteen inches wide, 
 which I made fast around my middle with thorns. 
 I begged for some water, which they gave me 
 in an old hat, which I was obliged to carry in 
 my hand, out of sight of the camels, lest by 
 wearing it, I should frighten them. We then 
 started again; and, as the party slackened their 
 pace a little, I was enabled to keep up on foot. 
 We continued in a S. E. direction; and after tra- 
 velling about two hours, I had the firs*t view of 
 the Arabs' tents. Vi * halted at about a quarter 
 of a mile distance from them, and I soon saw a 
 female coming towards us, who came out to 
 meet the returning party. She seemed to ma- 
 nifest a little feeling at my forlorn situation, and 
 entreated the girls to give me a little water, 
 which they did. She took hold of my hands.
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 57 
 
 and examined them very intently, showing at the 
 same time signs of wonder and curiosity. We 
 then prosecuted our journey, some mounted or: 
 camels, and some on foot, till about five o'clock 
 the sun appearing about an hour high. We now 
 came near the tents belonging to the two mas- 
 ters of our party, situated in a small valley. The 
 surface of the ground consisted of hard baked 
 earth filled with small, sharp, flinty stones, and 
 occasionally of a small vein of sandy ground 
 There was not a tree nor vegetable in sight ; and 
 the earth had nothing verdant upon it, but a feu 
 small bushes thinly scattered, about two feet 
 high. Upon these, the camels fed. They were 
 distributed around the valley, and supported 
 themselves by browsing upon these bushes. The 
 camels loaded with water, which was contained 
 in goat skins, were; driven up to the tent, and 
 unloaded. 
 
 These skins, made to transport water from 
 one part of the desert to the other, are fitted for 
 this purpose by taking the skin whole from the 
 woat. This is done, by cutting it around the 
 neck; then by thrusting in the hand, it is taken 
 whole from the animal to the end of its legs. 
 The holes, at the end of the legs, are made fast. 
 by tying an overhand knot with the skin of the 
 legs. The Arabs have a kind of root which, 
 dried and pounded, they apply to the inside of 
 the skin, which cures and tans it, sufficiently to 
 become a water vessel ; leaving the hair on the 
 outside in its natural state. The neck of the 
 skin, into which they pour the water, is made 
 water-tight by lashing a cord around it, which
 
 68 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 is also made fast to the skin of one of the fore 
 legs ; and in this way they keep the neck of the 
 skin in a perpendicular position, while the body 
 of it lies along-side of the camel horizontally ; 
 being made fast to the saddle by a cord extend- 
 ing from each leg. The camel is sometimes 
 leaded with four oi these skins, two upon each 
 side. These skins are sometimes used for the 
 transportation of milk, taken from the camel, al- 
 though those used for this purpose are more 
 thoroughly tanned, and the hair wholly taken 
 off! 
 
 Before we arrived at the tents, my master's 
 wife and three children came out about half a 
 mile to meet us. They welcomed the return of 
 the party, by enclosing their hands in those of 
 the returning, and also throwing their arms about 
 their necks and kissing them. The old lady 
 wore a face that seemed to have something of 
 humanity in it. She took my hand, and letting it 
 go, put hers to her own mouth, motioning to me 
 to do the same, with my own, which I did. The 
 little children, by their signs, wished me to kis^ 
 their hands, which I did. They all manifested 
 a kind of pleasure in having a slave in their fa- 
 mily, to serve them, and more probably because 
 they hoped to make a sum of money by the sale 
 of me. I was then conducted to the tent; and 
 after resting awhile, was sent out with one of the 
 2;irls, who had a kind of hatchet in her hand, 
 for what purpose 1 could not tell. I how- 
 ever soon learned it was to cut bushes for fuel. 
 After she had cut a few of them to instruct me, 
 ahe handed the hatchet to me and bade me cut
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 69 
 
 or dig them out of the ground. After gathering 
 and carrying three handful s to the tent, I was 
 told it was sufficient, and was bade, by signs, to 
 sit down. They then dug a small hole in the 
 ground in front of the tent, and struck tire with 
 a flint and steel upon a kind of dried weed, 
 which served for tinder. After the weed had 
 taken tire, they gathered up a quantity of dried 
 camel's dung, which is always to be found around 
 an Arab's tent, and after nibbing it in their 
 hands, placed it upon the burning weed, and 
 blowing it, it soon set the dung on fire. They 
 •hen put on a few dried sticks, and, as soon as 
 they began to blaze, they were placed in the 
 bottom of the hole. This is the universal me- 
 thod of building a fire among this people. They 
 then gathered some small stones and threw into 
 
 ill* 
 
 the fire ; commanding me to cut a small slice 
 from the pork which they found in my sack, and 
 the same being cut into small pieces, it was put 
 into a small wooden bowl. They then, with two 
 sticks, took from the fire in the hole the heated 
 stones and dropped thorn into the bowl among 
 the pork, which 1 kept from burning by stirring 
 it round. It was very much for my benefit that 
 my mistress was a Mahometan, for she would not 
 publicly eat pork herself, although she dispensed 
 so far with the articles of her Faith, as to permit 
 her children to partake with me of thic unholy 
 food. Before I began my supper, however, she 
 made me pour my pork, fat and all, into my hat. 
 as they will never permit a Christian to conta- 
 minate their vessels by eating or drinking in 
 them : and I have often been deprived of a
 
 70 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 draught of water, because no vessel but theirs 
 could be found to contain it. They commanded 
 me to preserve part of this me* s until next morn- 
 ing, as I couid have no more food until the next 
 evening. Cooking, however, is an uncommon 
 duty among the Arabs, as they seldom have any 
 thing to cook, living almost wholly upon the milk 
 of the camel, which they sometimes warm with 
 heated stones. Indeed, were it not for the ca- 
 mel, the immense desert of Zahara, sometimes 
 called Zaara, ami Saharah, must be wholly de- 
 serted by human beings. From the peculiar na- 
 ture of the camel's feet, being somewhat of the 
 nature of a puff-ball, and yielding to the smallest 
 pressure, th w are enabled to endure the sharp 
 stones, and also to travel in the deep sand. B) 
 these animals, the Arabs are enabled to traverse 
 the desert, and to transport then- plunder, their 
 persons, and their slaves, from dne part of it to 
 another. The country, producing no vegetable 
 food of any consequence, the natives are enabled 
 to sustain'life by the milk of fchese animals and 
 their meat when slain. Why they are permit- 
 ted to live at all, as they do nothing to add to 
 the common stock of human enjoyment, but ev- 
 ery thing in their power to diminish it, is a ques- 
 tion which neither the dim light of nature, nor 
 the imperfect reason of man can solve. At about 
 eleven o'clock at night, the usual time of milk- 
 ing the camels, I had perhaps a pint of milk 
 mixed with a pint of water, which is the usual 
 quantity afforded a slave. The reason for milk- 
 ing the camels near ihe middle of the night i~. 
 to let their milk cool, which is always much
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 71 
 
 heated by the exercise of the animal, and the 
 burning sun of the preceding day. They suf- 
 fered me to sleep upon the sand at one corner 
 of the tent. In the course of the night my master 
 Ganus returned from seeking after the boat. To 
 me, it was next to a miracle, that he could have 
 reached the boat, and have taken therefrom ar- 
 ticles which I knew we left there, in this short 
 space of time. But afterwards, on seeing Porter, 
 lie told me that the next day after my master 
 descended, he went down to the boat himself 
 with his master. That the camels and an Arab 
 would descend a precipice with ease, which an 
 European or American could hardly pass with- 
 out endangering his life. My master brought a 
 bag of rice which we had left near the boat, the 
 same being ruined by the salt water, and having 
 turned as green as verdigris : he also brought 
 some lean pork, which we could not carry with 
 us upon the precipice ; a part of a boat sail, 
 pieces of ropes, and, what reminded me of our 
 brig and my country, the colours of the brig. 
 
 September 9th. — This was the second day of 
 my slavery. The family of my master consisted 
 of himself, his wife, and two girls, and a boy; the 
 oldest about twelve. His mother and his two 
 sisters, before mentioned, lived in a tent near by. 
 and both seemed to constitute but one family. 
 I now furnished myself with a long string, having 
 no means to keep the day of the week, or of the 
 month, the month itself, or even the year ; and 
 every day I tied a knot in it to keep my reckon- 
 ing and have it correct. The family of my mas- 
 ter could not be reckoned among the rich Arabs ;
 
 72 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 he and nis mother having between them but two 
 small tents, and but about twenty camels, young 
 and old. At this time they milked but three, 
 which produced but about six quarts of milk 
 daily. This served for the support of the whole, 
 being eight in number, besides myself; and my 
 proportion of milk was of course the smallest in 
 quantity, being sometimes not more than one 
 pint, mixed with the same quantity of water, for 
 twenty-four hours. They generally preserved a 
 part of the milk they got in the night, in a goat 
 skin, for the next day at noon ; depending upon 
 the small quantity they obtained in the morning 
 for breakfast, of which I was sometimes deprived 
 of any part. . 
 
 The first thing the family do upon rising, which 
 is invariably at day-break, is to go to Sulfa, or 
 prayer. This they perform with great apparent 
 solemnity. They begin this worship by pulling 
 off what few camel-skin slippers are among 
 them ; then kneeling to the earth, rubbing sand 
 upon their hands, arms and faces, a number of 
 times. In whatever attitude, during this duty, 
 whether standing, sitting, or kneeling, their faces 
 are always turned to the east. The ceremony 
 of rubbing their hands, arms and faces, with 
 sand, is a symbol of ablution, or cleansing, as 
 they have no water to perform this with. After 
 this is done they stand up very erect, facing to 
 the east ; each repeating exclamations or ori- 
 sons, in a manner so very peculiar, that it is 
 almost impossible for a foreigner to spell the 
 words made use of, however familiar he may be- 
 come with the pronunciation of them. It is equally
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL 73 
 
 difficult to obtain from them the precise meaning 
 of the words used ; as there is a kind of peculiar 
 mystery in their language, as well as a peculiar 
 solemnity in theirdeportrnent when worshipping. 
 For nineteen months I was in the habit of wit- 
 nessing the worship of the Arabs, in families and 
 in larger bodies, generally four times in a day, 
 and hearing the exclamations they made ; and 
 will attempt to enter down a few of their most 
 frequently repeated expressions. Looking to- 
 wards the east, they exclaim — " Sheda cl la lah y 
 Hi, Allah !• — Sheda Mahommed Rah sool Allah /" 
 They then throw their outspread hands forward, 
 exclaiming Allah Hooakibar (" Great God.") 
 They then kneel down upon the earth, and, sup- 
 porting their bodies with their hands, kiss the 
 earth ; and as they kiss it, exclaim again, Allah 
 Hooakibar ; then rising erect, repeat the same 
 expressions. They now, with a low and solemn 
 tone of voice, casting their eyes occasionally to- 
 wards heaven, repeat over a prayer from one to 
 two minutes in length. From having afterwards 
 learned the meaning of many of the expressions 
 made use of in these prayers, I feel fully author- 
 ized to say that they return thanks for the favors 
 received ; for the food they eat ; for the clothes 
 they wear. They mostearnestly pray for rain when 
 the earth is dry ; and for sufficient food for their 
 camels. They pray for abundance of plunder, 
 and that they may take numerous slaves. That, 
 the Great God would destroy their enemies and 
 protect them; that he would keep their children 
 alive, and bless all their possessions. In the 
 course of these prayers, they frequently mention- 
 
 G
 
 74 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 ed the name of Moolay Solimaan. During the 
 repetition of this prayer, they stand perfectly 
 erect. After the conclusion of it, they again ex- 
 claim, loudly, Allah Hooakibar, and again kiss the 
 earth, in the manner described, two or three 
 times, at each time repeating Allah Hooakibar ! 
 They then sit down upon the earth, and each re- 
 peats over to himself, probably some part of the 
 Koran. During this, they hold in their hands, 
 the most of them, a string of beads upon which 
 they cast their eyes as though offering to them 
 the most profound adoration. These beads they 
 count over, stopping as they come to some par- 
 ticular one. They sometimes wear them upon 
 their arms, and frequently carry them in their 
 hands as they are walking or sitting. They close 
 this ceremony by repeating the words, Sulle 
 Jlfulla. 
 
 This is a description of family worship. When 
 a larger number are together, the worship is 
 conducted by arranging themselves in a single 
 line, one of the oldest stepping out in front, and 
 being the only speaker. They, however, all re- 
 peat with him, Allah Hooakibar, and following 
 his motions, bow to the earth and kiss it. When 
 a family have closed their morning worship, they 
 proceed to suckle the young camels, the bag of 
 the old one being always secured from them, by 
 a kind of basket made of a species of grass found 
 in some of the northern parts of the deserts, 
 which the women fasten over them. They then 
 milk the remainder into a bowl, which is but a 
 trifle, and divide and drink it. The camels, un- 
 less they are to travel, are then sent off to iced
 
 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 7/) 
 
 upon the small shrubs or bushes already men- 
 tioned, being always in the care of some one of 
 the family. My master remained in his tent 
 through this day. Having obtained two pair of 
 shoes, he gave one pair to me, they being part 
 of the plunder they took from the crew the day 
 before. He restored to me my trowsers, which 
 his sisters the day before had torn from me, 
 having cut them off at the knee, saying, all be- 
 low the knee was foonia — i. e. good for nothing. 
 He also gave me part of our boat sail, which his 
 son fancied, and took from me, giving me a 
 patched skin in exchange, which, lied in front, 
 hangs over the back part of the body, covering- 
 it nearly as low as the knee. The family spent 
 part of the day in examining their plunder, 
 and I slept under the tent a considerable portion 
 of it. I ate a little of my pork, with the milk al- 
 lowed me for my supper, and nothing occurred 
 until next morning. 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Meeting with part of the crew — preparations for a journey — 
 tent —furniture — man-saddle - female do. — loading tent and 
 furniture — gazelle — Mr. Williams and Barrett Christian and 
 Mahommedan religion — separation— mode of spinning and 
 weaving — of making a tent — of pitching it — scrupulous re- 
 gard to worship. 
 
 ON the 10th of September, 1815, at about 9 
 o'clock, A. M. my master took me with him, on 
 foot, about five miles, where we came to a num- 
 ber of tents. No one can judge of my surprise, 
 when 1 sawCapt.Riley,Clarke,Burns,and I think
 
 r6 ROBBINS 1 JOURNAL. 
 
 Horace, sitting near one of the tents. Although 
 the interview with my shipmates was wholly un- 
 expected ; although it produced the most de- 
 lightful feelings, they were mingled with the 
 melancholy reflection that it could be but short, 
 and probably would be the last. We spent 
 nearly half a day together; and while we were 
 in sad conference upon the subject of our fate, 
 the iVrabs, about twenty in number, were hold- 
 ing a council. These they frequently hold, but 
 in a very confused and irregular manner, having 
 no one in particular to preside over their deli- 
 berations. Not at tha time knowing any of their 
 language, I could not tell, from that or from any 
 signs, what was the subject under consultation ; 
 but I judged it was relative to the mode of dis- 
 posing of us, their slaves, as Capt. Riley was tell- 
 ing them, by counting stones, how many dollars 
 he would give for our ransom, if we could be 
 carried to Morocco, or, as the Arabs call that 
 country, Marocksh. Capt. Riley seemed to feel 
 some hopes that we might yet get released, and 
 advised us all to keep up good spirits. I took a 
 painful leave of them, and, at about 3 P. M. re- 
 turned with my mast r to his tent. I was sent to 
 gather wood for the night. The family built a 
 fire, and cooked some of the damaged rice which 
 was brought from the boat, by heated stones. 
 This they did by putting a small quantity of rice, 
 mixed with water, into a bowl; then throwing 
 in the hot stones an^ covering it over, it became 
 a kind of pudding, which they divided among 
 themselves, leaving what little adhered to the 
 atones for my share, which I was obliged to
 
 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 77 
 
 scrape from them with my teeth. This, with a 
 little piece of lean, salt pork, which was cooked 
 by the embers of fire mixed with sand, a little 
 water, and, at 11 o'clock, a few drops of milk, 
 made up my supper. 
 
 On the 1 lth, for the first time, I witnessed the 
 maimer in which the Arabs prepare for a jour- 
 ney It may here be remarked, that they have 
 no' particular places appropriated to particular 
 individual.. They pitch their tents in any un- 
 occupied place ; and when they strike them, 
 they leave the place of their temporary abode, 
 to the next occupant. They begin, by taking 
 all their furniture, from the inside of the tent, 
 which consists of two or three wooden bowls 
 (o-eddacks) which they procure from the Moors; 
 about the same number of water goat skins, 
 (u-ilfobar) and a small milk goat skin, (s cow) 
 both of which have been before described ; a 
 small axe, (>^/o)-a tent knife, made perhaps 
 of an iron hoop, (»** --a sleeping mat for the 
 family, (lassaia)—* patch-work skin (farrow) 
 to cover them, and sometimes a few spinning 
 implements, with which they spin camel s hair. 
 They all have a kind of female saddle of which 
 no idea can be formed by an American without 
 a description ; and it is almost impossible to 
 give an accurate idea of it by the most minute 
 description. It is made by two crotches, not 
 unlike the forward part of our saddle trees. 
 One of these settles on to the back bone ot the 
 camel, forward of the hump, and the other back 
 of it. From these, are extended two poles about 
 four feet in length, and near the ends they are 
 
 G2
 
 78 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 made fast to the two crotches which are padded 
 inside to prevent them chafing the camel's back. 
 Upon the top of these two poles, is placed a 
 camel's hide, the outer edge of which is sewed 
 to a rim rising about eight inches above the 
 poles, making a sort of oblong basket, about 
 three feet in length, and two in width, placed 
 crosswise upon the back of the camel, and made 
 fast to the poles. A girth is made fast to each 
 of these poles either by buckles, which they 
 can seldom procure, or a knot, passing under 
 the belly of the camel. Another girth or rope 
 passes from the hinder part under the tail of the 
 camel, somewhat like our cruppers. Another 
 one extends from the forward- part around the 
 breast of the beast, somewhat in the manner of 
 our breast girths. From each corner of this bas- 
 ket is raised a pole, meeting in the centre of it, 
 and made fast at the top, over which they throw 
 a blanket, a skin, a piece of sail, or whatever 
 they have suitable for this purpose, to preserve 
 their bodies from the rays of the burning sun. 
 Into these, the mother generally places herself 
 in the centre, having a child on each side to 
 keep this saddle properly balanced. They also 
 have a saddle which is placed upon the forward 
 part of the hump for the owner, or a man to ride 
 upon. This has a saddle-tree forward, which 
 is padded inside, and goes on to the camel's 
 shoulder bones, xery near the neck, rising eight 
 inches above the seat, which is circular, hollow- 
 ed in the middle, and from the outer edge a 
 piece of raw camel's hide is drawn over it. 
 •iround the whole of this circular scat, except-
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 79 
 
 ing where it is made fast to the tree, a small 
 thick pad is fastened, a stud extending from 
 each side of the circle, and resting upon the 
 pad to support it. This saddle is made fast by 
 a girth passing just back of the fore legs. The 
 rider seats himself, and crosses his legs upon the 
 descending part of the camel's neck. This is a 
 description of the saddles generally in use, al- 
 though others vary in some trifling respect. They 
 now strike their tent, and take therefrom all its 
 long and short poles. These, with all the rest 
 of the articles described, excepting the saddles, 
 water and milk skins, they roll up in the tent, by 
 putting part in one end of it, which is folded up 
 in shape of a piece of cloth of different lengths. 
 They roll up each end of the tent, each hav- 
 ing a long tent poll in it. together with other ar- 
 ticles, so divided as to make a balance. These 
 poles are lashed together fore-and-aft upon the 
 top of the camel, resting upon the centre of the 
 hump. This is made fast to the animal by a 
 rope extending over the top of it and around the 
 body. Another rope passes from it under the 
 tail, and another round the breast. All this pre- 
 paration is made in half an hour, and often in 
 less time. The tent and its contents are gene- 
 rally put upon a camel that is driven, although 
 he is sometimes ridden. 
 
 We started this day at sun two hours high. I 
 shall hereafter be less particular in stating the 
 hour of the day upon which any event took place, 
 unless it is a very interesting one. Indeed, time 
 was of but little consequence to me, as I had no- 
 thing to interest me but the peculiar habits, man-
 
 80 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 ners, and customs of the Arabs, the immense de- 
 serts through which I was passing in almost ev- 
 ery direction, and the distresses I there endured. 
 This day we travelled moderately, alternately 
 on foot, and mounted on camels. As we came 
 to spots where bushes were thinly scattered, the 
 camels were permitted to feed, as is generally 
 the case. In the course of the day we saw great 
 numbers of animals which the natives called 
 Gazelle. Their appearance was very similar 
 to that of a deer, although they were of a small- 
 er size. They were extremely gaunt and had 
 long legs. Although they leaped and skipped 
 about with great activity, they manifested but 
 little fear upon our approach : and continued to 
 browse at a short distance from us. I have seen 
 them frequently upon different parts of the Za- 
 hara desert ; but I never saw the natives take 
 any of them, although I have often seen their 
 skins, and was at this time wearing part of one. 
 I afterwards learned from the natives, that they 
 were taken at a particular season of the year, 
 probably on account of their condition as to flesh 
 and hair, the latter of which is exceedingly beau- 
 tiful ; surpassing, in this respect, any animal I 
 ever saw in America. We halted, towards night, 
 amidst a small flat of bushes, more flourishing 
 than any I had before seen, in sight of a number 
 of tents. It is not generally the custom, when 
 on a journey, to pitch tents very near to each 
 other, as each party requires a considerable ad- 
 joining ground to feed their camels upon during 
 the night. I reckon we travelled about twenty 
 miles this day, and, as I judged from the sun, in
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 81 
 
 a S. E. direction. After pitching our tent, I was 
 sent, as usual, to gather fuel for the night, then 
 to the nearest tent to get fire, as this would save 
 the trouble of striking one. In this tent I saw 
 Mr. Williams and Barrett, who were stolen as 
 before mentioned. Their legal master had re- 
 gained them, probably, after a severe contest, as 
 a slave is the last piece of property an Arab will 
 relinquish ; indeed, they are the only property 
 except their camels, that is worth a contest. 
 From what 1 could learn relative to their traffic, 
 they would estimate a healthy slave, at the va- 
 lue of ten full grown camels ; although as they 
 approach near to a market for slaves, they rise 
 in value. 
 
 These miserable shipmates were almost en- 
 tirely naked. The skin upon their backs was 
 very much blistered. They informed me that 
 they had suffered very severely from rapid tra- 
 velling, and from want of food ; they still, how- 
 ever, had a small quantity of pork which their 
 master, in company with mine, had gotten from 
 the boat, and which neither dared to eat. Like 
 me, they derived some benefit from the religious 
 tenets of their master : and I think we might all 
 say, without incurring the vengeance of Mahom- 
 med, their prophet, that this was the only benefit 
 we ever derived from the faith of a mussulman. It 
 is almost impossible in this place, to avoid re- 
 marking upon the different effect that the two 
 systems introduced into our world by our divine 
 Redeemer, and the impostor Mahommed, has 
 upon the professors of these different systems. 
 The religion introduced by the one teaches
 
 82 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 " Peace on earth, and good will to men. To do 
 to others as you would have others do to you.'" 
 It teaches men to check the operations of pas- 
 sion, and depraved nature, and to become pure 
 in heart. That of the other promises the full 
 gratification of every propensity. His paradise 
 is a region of gluttony, drunkenness, and de- 
 bauchery. The one teaches men to love their 
 enemies — the other to destroy them. The one 
 teaches us " to feed the hungry, and clothe the 
 naked," — the other, to tear from the unfortunate 
 being in their power, the last piece of raiment 
 that guards him from the inclemency of the sea- 
 sons, and to see, with perfect indifference, the 
 famished slave die at their feet, when they be- 
 come unfit for market. 
 
 T could spend but few minutes, and have but 
 few words with my unfortunate friends. I has- 
 tened to my master's tent — built a fire — cooked 
 a small slice of my pork, and, at the usual time, 
 had my scanty portion of milk and water ; and. 
 in a corner of my master's tent, upon the sand, 
 slept till day-light. 
 
 September 12th. — This day we started early, 
 and continued south easterly. I sometimes rode 
 behind my master, by securing myself, as well 
 as I could, by means of my skin and rope, upon 
 the hump of the camel. We halted a few mi- 
 nutes in the middle of the day, took a little milk 
 and water, and the camels browsed upon the 
 bushes. At about sun set we stopped for the 
 night, having travelled, as I concluded, about 
 fifty miles. Knowing the service I should be 
 compelled to perform, I voluntarily set myself
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL- 83 
 
 about it ; procured a fire, fuel for it, assisted in 
 unloading the camels, pitching the tent, &c. As 
 it was in vain to resist the power of the unfeel- 
 ing wretches, into whose hands fate had thrown 
 me, I endeavoured to conciliate their favor, by 
 performing, with apparent cheerfulness, all the 
 irksome duties of a slave. 
 
 13th. — This was a day of but little travel and 
 considerable rest ; having stopped and pitched 
 the tent about noon. An Arab's tent, folded up 
 as before described, containing almost all the 
 moveable estate of its. owner, is taken from the 
 came l — separated from its contents, and pitch- 
 ed, ready to receive the furniture and the fami- 
 ly, in fifteen minutes. The cloth, of which the 
 tent is made, is wove of CHinel's hair, sheared 
 from the hump and sides of this animal. Their 
 mode of spinning this hair, which they prepare 
 for doing by whipping it in the same manner 
 Americans do oakum, is the most simple. They 
 have no implement with which they twist this or 
 any thing else ; seeming to have not the least 
 idea of a wheel to facilitate motion. They hold 
 a quantity of this hair in one hand, and with a 
 spindle in the other, commence the operation. 
 The spindle is nothing more than a small stick 
 made sharp at one end, and about eight inches 
 in length. This they make fast to the hair, and 
 with the thumb and finger begin to twist. After 
 drawing the thread to the length of the arm, they 
 let the spindle hang down, and by having affixed 
 to the lower end a considerable weight, and giv- 
 ing it a twist with the thumb and finger, the 
 weight below will turn the spindle sufficiently 
 
 a
 
 84 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 to twist a thread about three feet long. The 
 thread is then wound round the lower end of the 
 spindle, and in the same way they continue to 
 draw out and wind up, thread after thread, un- 
 til the spindle is filled, which they then wind off 
 upon a ball. When they have made two balls, 
 perhaps of the size of a twenty-four pound can- 
 non shot, they twist two threads into one, in the 
 above manner, after having wound them into a 
 single ball. In this tedious and slow process 
 they manufacture all their yarn for tent cloth. 
 When they get a sufficient quantity of yarn to 
 make one tent cloth, which is longer or shorter, 
 according to the size of the tent they intend to 
 make, they proceed to weave it. They make 
 the cloth about three quarters of a yard wide ; 
 and when they are prepared to weave, they must 
 halt long enough to weave the cloth through, as 
 they have no other loom than that which is made 
 by driving into the earth a number of pegs at 
 each end of the web, equal to half the number 
 of threads they put into the warp. Then by 
 turning the yarn around each of those pegs at 
 each end, and drawing it very tight, the warp is 
 prepared to receive the filling. They have no 
 idea of a reed, a harness, or a shuttle. They 
 have a piece of hard wood, about three feet in 
 length, about three inches in width, and about 
 half an inch thick. This has a handle at one 
 end, and is made pointed at the other, resem- 
 bling a wooden sword. With the point of this 
 instrument, they separate the threads of the 
 warp, having half upon the upper side, and 
 half upon the under side of it. Then, by 
 
 n
 
 BOBBINS' JOUBNAL. fct 
 
 turning it up edge-wise, they make a space suf- 
 ficiently large to pass through the filling, which 
 ss always done with the hand, either from a ball, 
 or from a stick, upon which they sometimes wind 
 it. After passing through a thread, it is beat up, 
 by taking hold of each end of this wooden in 
 strument, and pulling it up two or three timet 
 with as much force as a female can conveniently 
 exercise. I have been thus particular in describ 
 ing the mode of spinning and weaving, among 
 the Arabs,, to shew how stupidly ignorant thiF 
 barbarous race of beings are, of the most simple 
 arts of civilized life. The mode described is 
 that in universal practice among the wandering 
 Arabs; although at Wadhioon a mode some 
 what different is adopted. 
 
 To make a tent for a family, the natives ge 
 nerally sew together from eight to twelve of tht 
 pieces of cloth manufactured as has been de- 
 scribed. They are from twenty to thirty feet jr. 
 length, and from eighteen to twenty-five feet is 
 width. In the centre of this tent cloth, upon the 
 inside, is sewed on a kind of socket, composed oi 
 the thrums of the camel's-hair yarn. When they 
 pitch a tent, they insert into this socket, an ob- 
 long block, rounded upon the top, and in the 
 under side of which is made two mortises. To 
 each tent, are two long poles of about twelve 
 feet in length, and two short poles of four feel. 
 Upon each corner, is a loop made of iron, wood, 
 or rope, and strongly fastened to the tent cloth, 
 and upon each side and end two; making twelve 
 in the whole. To each of these loops is fasten 
 ed a tent-peg, about one foot in length, with a raw
 
 86 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 carael's-hide rope, six or eight feet long. The 
 first thing done in pitching a tent, is to spread 
 the cloth flat upon the ground ; then driving in- 
 to the earth the twelve pegs. For this purpose, 
 an Arab always carries with him a smooth round 
 stone, lest he should come to a place where none 
 could be found. In driving the pegs, the cloth 
 is sufficiently slackened, to give it a proper 
 height with the long poles ; and constant prac- 
 tice almost invariably enables them to make a 
 proper allowance for this. The next thing done, 
 is to insert the upper end of the long poles, into 
 the mortises in the central block. These poles 
 stand one on each side of the tent. After the 
 upper end is inserted, a sufficient number of wo- 
 men (for the men are but spectators) are placed 
 at the lower end of each pole ; and raising them 
 at the same time, they place the end, which is 
 sharpened, into the earth ; leaving them about 
 eight feet apart at the bottom. This braces the 
 tent, and prevents the wind from blowing it 
 down. If this does not make the cloth suffi- 
 ciently tight, it is made so by means of the ropes 
 fastened to the loops and the pegs. This leaves 
 the tent cloth about two feet above the ground. 
 The entrance into the tent is made by the two 
 short poles, being entered into the two side loops, 
 and standing perpendicularly. This entrance 
 is about four feet high, and is always opposite 
 to the wind; for if the wind shifts before the 
 tent is struck, these poles are shifted to the op- 
 posite side. The space between the bottom of 
 the tent cloth, and the earth, is generally closed 
 npon the back-side and the ends, by means of
 
 IIOBBINS' JOURNAL. 87 
 
 spare cloths which are fastened to the tent cloth, 
 with iron or wooden pins, and to the earth, by 
 laying stones or any other heavy substance upon 
 the edge of them. This preserves the people with- 
 in the tent from the chilly easterly wind, which 
 generally blows through the night season. Dur- 
 ing the afternoon of this day, I remained an idle 
 and uninterested spectator of the stupid con- 
 duct, and beastly manners of the wretches with 
 whom I was compelled to associate. But by this 
 time I had learned that it was my best policy to 
 conform to their whims, affect a cheerfulness 
 which I could not feel, and submit to my fate 
 without murmuring. Notwithstanding their dis- 
 regard for every thing belonging to humanity, 
 they were invariably punctual in worshipping 
 " something whom they call God." Three or four 
 times every day, let their engagements be what 
 they might; let their violations of common jus- 
 tice be ever so enormous ; they suddenly pros- 
 trate themselves upon the earth, exclaiming 
 " Shcda el la tah, Hi Allah — Sheda Mahommed, 
 Rahsool Allah — Allah Hooakibar!" — concluding 
 with some part of the Koran, and, with the most 
 solemn appearance and manner, exclaiming 
 " Sidle Malla" Happy may the wretched slave 
 think himself, who, the next moment after this 
 ceremony is ended, can feel safe from a stroke 
 of the scimitar, the spear, or the club.
 
 #£ KOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 iainful iravellirg — salutations — Mr. Williams' situation — Bar 
 rett — rocks — Africans enslave each other— a wandering male 
 Arab-female do.— American pork — Mr. Savage— interview 
 with him — a rarity. 
 
 September 14th, 1815. 
 THIS was a day of rapid travelling, having 
 started very early, and not having halted 'till 
 about dark ; and I conclude we must have made 
 as many as sixty miles. Our course was an 
 easterly one, and no event of any consequence 
 took place. I rode a considerable part of the 
 day behind my master. To do this with the 
 more ease, I took from my back my skin to se- 
 cure myself from the sharp back of the camel. 
 But while this preserved my seat and legs from 
 being worn raw, my back was exposed to the 
 almost vertical rays of a torrid sun, and the skin 
 began to peal from my back from being blister- 
 ed and parched. Judging from the course we 
 had travelled from the place where I was cap- 
 tured, I conclude we must now have reached 
 the 21st deg. N. latitude, the body of a tent, a 
 camel, and a man, making but a very little shade. 
 and that to the south, as it was now near the au- 
 tumnal equinox. This night our tent was not 
 pitched, being unloaded, but not unfolded. At 
 the time of stopping, I discovered a number ol 
 lights, from different tents. I learned from one 
 of my master's sisters, whose name I had nov* 
 found out was Muckwoola, that Mr. Williams and 
 Barrett were in one of these tents. How she
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 89 
 
 &new this I cannot tell; but this I know, that the 
 different parties of Arabs generally know the 
 situation of each other, and the slaves they have 
 in their possession. She accompanied me to the 
 tent; and on the way, said some things to me 
 which I could not then understand. 1 found my 
 shipmates near a large fire in front of a tent, it 
 being pitched in a place where there were large 
 dry thorn bushes. They were cooking some 
 pork. Upon our shaking hands, the natives no- 
 ticed it very particularly, laughing and sneering 
 at our mode of salutation, at the same time go- 
 ing through their own mode, which is, by placing 
 the inside of the open hands together, then bring- 
 ing it to the lips, touching them, and dropping 
 the hand. I think I shall always prefer the mode 
 handed down to us from our brave Saxon an- 
 cestors, of clasping and squeezing the hand of a 
 friend whom I love. 
 
 Mr. Williams was considerably emaciated; 
 hie body much blistered arid parched by the 
 sun, and his, as well as the rest of our legs and 
 feet, were much swollen, occasioned by the heat 
 of the sun, and the irritation by thumping upon 
 the almost bare bones of the camel, f can hard- 
 ly, at tiiis time, suppress the anguish I feel in re- 
 membering this, which was the last interview ! 
 ever had with this worthy man and good sea- 
 man. He had lost his fortitude by his misery ; 
 and despaired of life. He mentioned his family 
 in the most affectionate manner ; and continued 
 to converse upon this interesting subject, until 
 overwhelming grief forbade farther utterance. 
 Although this was the last time I saw Mr. Wil- 
 
 H2
 
 90 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 Hams, I learned some time after, by Barrett, 
 whom I saw at a fish place near Cape Mirik, that 
 he had regained his health and flesh ; was liv- 
 ing better ; had a very good man for a master, 
 who was also his (Barrett's) master; and I con- 
 sole myself, and I think his friends may also con- 
 sole themselves with the hope, that he may once 
 more see his native country, and be blessed with 
 ihe society of his friends. 
 
 As to Barrett, he was at this time apparently 
 less miserable than Mr. Williams. I took some 
 fire from this tent, and returned to my masters. 
 My pork still held out, as my Mahometan master 
 would permit me to eat but little of it at a time: 
 and, thanks to his Mussulman faith, would eat 
 none himself. 
 
 On the 15th and 16th we prosecuted our jour- 
 ney at a moderate rate. The general view of 
 this part of the Zahara desert is a boundless 
 plain terminated by the horizon, although in tra- 
 velling over it, the traveller meets with genily 
 rising sand hills, and shallow vailies. Some- 
 times he sees a rock from which large pieces 
 have fallen, in a very irregular shape, there 
 seeming to be no seams or grain to this stone 
 like most of the large bodies of rocks in New- 
 England, These rocks are mostly covered with 
 a whitish moss, similar to what is frequently 
 seen upon the rocks in the District of Maine. 
 This is sometimes eat by camels when no- 
 thing else can be found. We occasionally met 
 with clusters of tents, and some standing singl*. 
 Many of the Arabs have muskets, for which 
 *Wy have ihe highest admiration; seeming to
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 9] 
 
 esteem them next to their holy beads. The 
 one they think will secure to them the favor 
 of their prophet, and with the other they hope 
 lo procure or intimidate slaves, as they frequent- 
 ly took deliberate aim at my breast, which 1 
 as often laid open, telling them to fire ; being 
 then almost indifferent, whether J was laid dead 
 upon the desert, food for wild beasts, or com- 
 pelled to traverse with men as wild and as fero- 
 cious as the tigers or leopards that prowl over 
 them also. They often put these muskets into 
 my hands, asking me whether they wereFransak 
 or Inglisis. I sometimes saw valuable double- 
 barrelled muskets, which they probably either 
 procured from the European settlement upon 
 the Senegal, or took from a black slave, which 
 perhaps he obtained in exchange for one of hit 
 countrymen. These Africans, of every name 
 and feature and complexion, take delight in en- 
 slaving each other; and although the slave trade, 
 carried on by Christian merchants, on the coast 
 of Africa, excites the just indignation of the 
 Christian world, yet it can hardly be expected 
 that an American, who has for months and years 
 been enslaved by them, can feel so much com- 
 passion towards a slave here as those do, who 
 have always enjoyed the blessings of humanity 
 and liberty. 
 
 A description of the male wandering Arabs is: 
 they are six feet in height generally; remarka- 
 bly straight ; large-boned ; have very black, pe- 
 netrating eyes; black hair, until age makes it 
 grey, but of different qualities ; some being soft 
 and straight, and some coarse and bushy. They
 
 92 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 have high cheek bones ; noses that incline more 
 to the aquiline than Roman ; thin lips ; beauti- 
 ful white teeth, and very regular; thick, black 
 beards when in middle life, which hang down to 
 the breast, increasing in length as they advance 
 in years, which then become almost entirely 
 white. When old, and some of them must be 
 very aged, they have a gravity and solemnity of 
 appearance which is seldom seen in Americans. 
 The features of the men, unless when distorted 
 by anger, or the prospect of plunder, are regu- 
 lar, and often display some marks that would 
 induce a stranger to think that they belonged to 
 the human family. 
 
 I would gladly omit a description of the fe- 
 male wandering Arabs ; but it will leave a chasm 
 in the description of the natural curiosities of 
 this country. They are somewhat higher in 
 stature than the American women, and, like the 
 Arab men, remarkably straight when young. 
 Their cheek bones are high ; their eyes and 
 hair similar to the men. Their teeth are also 
 white ; but the two eye-teeth often turn out of 
 the mouth like a tush. They endeavour to make 
 them project as far as possible, to furnish a rest- 
 ing place for the upper lip ; and they constantly 
 stand, like two faithful centinels, to protect it 
 from an assault from the under one. They ge- 
 nerally carry their young upon their backs ; and 
 their breasts, from constant exposure, and hav- 
 ing no stays to support them, become relaxed, 
 and hang down to such a length, that they can 
 furnish the child upon their backs with food 
 from these accommodating reservoirs, by thrust-
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 93 
 
 ing them under their arms ; the child, at the 
 same time, hangs quartering upon the mother's 
 back, and grabs them, one at a time, to draw 
 therefrom the food they furnish it. Among the 
 young women, however, are many of very regu- 
 lar and interesting features. They generally 
 have very long hair, which they braid behind, 
 and turn up to the back part of the head, and 
 confine with a kind of hoop placed upon the 
 crown of the head, giving the back part of tiie 
 head an elevation considerably above the fore- 
 head. Upon the forehead and temples are a 
 number of small braids of hair, to which is fas- 
 tened a great variety of the most beautiful shells; 
 and sometimes large rings, made of white stone 
 Over the whole of this apparatus is thrown a 
 piece of blue cotton cloth, as a tu.ban, conceal- 
 ing the whole head and face, excepting the fore- 
 head, the eyes, cheek bones, and nose ; the va- 
 riety of shells hanging around the edge of it. 
 They also ornament their wrists and ancles, with 
 strings of black beads, and sometimes of small 
 shells. Their covering is generally a single 
 blanket or skin of different lengths, and put on 
 in different ways, depending upon the wealth, 
 the whim, or the necessity of the wearer. 
 
 During these two days we were penetrating 
 easterly into the interior. The leflection, that 
 I was departing farther and farther from ever) 
 trace of civilization, imparted feelings of the most 
 gloomy kind. We, however, travelled moder- 
 ately ; advancing, perhaps, not more than sixty 
 miles. I saw none of my shipmates, nor any 
 other unfortunate slave.
 
 94 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 September 17th. — We continued to travel in 
 an easterly direction. I was reminded of my 
 native land, and of the abundance of her bless- 
 ings, by occasionally partaking of a little slice 
 of pork which was there produced. It was a 
 real comfort, notwithstanding it compelled me 
 to draw a most disheartening parallel between 
 my former situation, and the dismal prospects 
 that then surrounded me. My master's water 
 began to grow short ; and although I was parch 
 ed without by the burning sun, and within by 
 dreadful thirst, I could not, by the most humble 
 and urgent entreaties, move the obdurate heart 
 of my master to afford me a drop. Amidst the 
 most melancholy reflections, I recognized Mr. 
 Savage in company with two Arabs. This was 
 the first time I had seen him since the com- 
 mencement of our slavery. When I first saw 
 him, he was in my rear. I slackened my walk, 
 and he overtook me. My master's camels were 
 travelling at a quick rate, which shortened my 
 interview with him. He said he had neither 
 seen or ate any food but milk and water, and 
 that in very small qrantities, since we first were 
 separated. I lamented that I had not the small 
 remains of my pork to divide with him, my mas- 
 ter never suffering me to carry it myself. I has- 
 tened with all my power to overtake the camels. 
 The country had become more barren and 
 sandy, and the heat of the sun increased. We 
 at length found a few thorn bushes, which is the 
 only tavern an Arab ever finds, and we put up. 
 
 18th. — Having found this place of refresh- 
 ment, my master and his retinue were deter-
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 95 
 
 mined, I suppose, to eat it out before he quitted: 
 and during the whole of this day, we laid by. 
 
 19th. — For the four past nights, we had not 
 pitched the tent ; and sleeping upon the sand 
 in the open air, I found myself every morning 
 moistened with the heavy dews, and almost stif- 
 fened by the chilly air. It can easily be ima- 
 gined what would be the sensations of a person, 
 who, for a number of days, had been exposed 
 to a scalding sun, and blistered with its rays ; 
 deprived almostwholly of food and water; hunger 
 gnawing him within, and the heated sand irritating 
 his blistered body, and the dews and cold chills 
 operating upon him at the same time. We start- 
 ed early this morning at a moderate rate, and 
 continued in an eastern course. At about 1 1 
 o'clock, we came to ascending ground ; and the 
 camels were halted while my master, having been 
 joined by some other natives, went forward to 
 make discoveries. The camels browsed; the 
 women laid down to enjoy the sand beneath, 
 and the sun above, and I wandered off to a small 
 bush to enjoy a little shade, and, what my debi- 
 litated and fatigued body greatly needed, a lit- 
 tle rest. I fell into a kind of broken slumber 
 and continued here, " twixt wake and sleep," 
 until my master returned. I then discovered, to 
 my very great joy, that they had unloaded the 
 camels, and seemed to be making preparations 
 to pitch the tent. I saw a number of other tents 
 at no great distance, and again fell into a sleep. 
 1 slept till the middle of the afternoon, and was 
 then awakened ; not by the hoarse and menac- 
 ing voice of 3 barbarian, but by the mild, and
 
 96 ROBBINS' JOURNAL, 
 
 cheering accents of a friend. It was Mr. Savage- 
 To see him once more was a consolation that 
 made me, for a moment, forget my misery ; it 
 was doifhly consolatory to see my friend not 
 wholly destitute of resolution. He said he was 
 in a state of absolute starvation; and bestowed 
 a string of the most bitter curses upon the inhu- 
 man wretches who were starving him to a ske- 
 leton. We went to seek something from our 
 mother earth, and found a few snails, which Mr. 
 Savage took. Notwithstanding we had the most 
 vindictive feelings towards our tormentors, we 
 retired to our shade; and after bewailing our 
 hard fate, remembered that we had a Father in 
 heaven, to whom we addressed a short prayer, 
 and separated. I gathered wood for the night ; 
 the tent was pitched, and my master allowed me 
 a little of my pork, a small quantity of water, 
 and a less quantity of milk for my supper. 
 
 20th. — This was a day of repose. After hav- 
 ing performed the usual ceremony of worship- 
 ping, which, as I have before stated, is always 
 the first service of the day, whether on a jour- 
 ney or at rest, my master went off, as usual, about 
 the desert or to the neighbouring tents. The 
 camels were sent off to feed, which were always 
 watched by the children, this service never hav- 
 ing yet been enjoined upon me. When the na- 
 tives are stationary, the men are constantly vis- 
 iting each other at their tents, and sometimes 
 are assembled in considerable numbers around 
 them. 
 
 It ought to be remarked that the wandering 
 Arabs consist of many distinct tribes, and not oi
 
 RGBBINS' JOURNAL. « 
 
 one general one, as is by some supposed. The 
 tribe to which my first master belonged is called 
 Wiled Lebdessebah. From what I afterwards 
 learned, when in possession of ether tribes, 1 
 found that this was considered by all, as the 
 poorest, most ferocious, and contemptible of thr 
 whole. They wander farther over the deserts, 
 and have the most uncertain and casual subsist- 
 ence. This accounts, in some degree, for the 
 total want of method or object which is percep 
 liblc among them. They wander from day to 
 day, seeming neither to know where they are 
 going, nor what they are going for. When as- 
 sembled together, as mentioned, they jabber to- 
 gether in confusion, for a while, and then for a 
 while gaze at each other with unmeaning va- 
 cancy. The women at the same time saunter ii< 
 and around their tents, with but little employ, 
 although all the labour that is done, is done by 
 them. While our brutal masters were thus em- 
 ployed, Mr. Savage and I, their wretched slavevs, 
 again met at the tent of his master. I found 
 him alone, pondering upon his fate. Upon my 
 approaching him, he seemed to affect a degree 
 of cheerfulness. We thought it no great crime 
 to steal a little water from a goat skin, as we 
 were nearly choaked. After this, Mr. Savage 
 recollected that early in the morning a wen or 
 sore had been cut out of one of his master's ca- 
 mels ; and we concluded to cook and eat this 
 excrescence that was taken from a beast, which 
 itself is not more palatable than our horses. U 
 lay upon the sand in two pieces, and upon tak- 
 ing it up, it appeared not unlike a shad-spawn.
 
 08 ROBBIES 1 JOURNAL. 
 
 and like that, was very tender. A little fire re- 
 mained, mixed with sand, into which we put our 
 delicious morsel, and before we had half roasted 
 it, we saw Mi. Savage's mistress approaching, 
 and ate it down, almost at a mouthful, knowing 
 that this was the only method we could take to 
 secure it from being taken from us. I spent a 
 considerable part of the day with my friend, and 
 towards evening returned to my master's tent. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Origin of wondering Arabs — vegetables mi the desert of Zahara— 
 gloomy prospect — roots — snails — water obtained — submissioii 
 to fate — last meeting and last interview with Capt. Riley, Mr. 
 Savage, Clarke, Burns, and Horace— situation upon the desert 
 ■ — valley — meeting with Porter. 
 
 FROM reading most of the productions of 
 travellers, and all the narratives and journals of 
 slaves, readers have their indignation excited 
 io the highest pitch against the degraded race 
 of beings among whom the author of this Jour- 
 nal was so unfortunate as to be enslaved. Be- 
 fore we conclude, however, to exclude them 
 from the human family ; before we denounce 
 them as unworthy of the least consideration, as 
 a part of human beings ; the candid inquirer af- 
 ter truth will endeavour to trace their origin. 
 He will try to learn what has been their course 
 of life ; what kind of government they have lived 
 under, and what advantages they have enjoyed. 
 It cannot be done in this little volume, which 
 professes to tell what they are, and not what
 
 KOBBIXS' JOURNAL 99 
 
 they have been. It may be briefly remarked, 
 however, that a general sentiment prevails 
 among historians, that the Arabs are the de- 
 scendants of Ishmael. In recurring to an au- 
 thority which will not be doubted, we find that 
 Ishmael was the son of Hagar, the handmaid of 
 Sarai, Abi am's wife ; that Hagar was an Egyp- 
 tian; that although Sarai, being childless her- 
 self, consented that Abram should go in unto 
 Hagar, yet, when she found that Hagar had con- 
 ceived, her wrath was kindled. " And when Sa- 
 rai dealt hardly with her, she jled from her face.' 1 '' 
 (Gen. xvi. ch.) " And the angel of the Lord said 
 unto her, Behold, thou art with child, and shalt bear 
 a son, and slw.lt call his name Ishmael, because the 
 Lord hath heard thy affliction. And he ivill be a wild 
 man; his hand will be against every man, and every 
 mail's hand against him," &c. In chap. xxv. 
 of Gen. we find it thus recorded : — " And these 
 are the names of the sons of Ishmael, by their names, 
 according to their generations : The first born of 
 Ishmael, J\ r ehujoth, and Kedar, andAdbcel, and Mib- 
 sam, and Mishma, and Dumah, and Massa, Hadar, 
 and Tema, and Jetur, and Naphish, and Kedemah. 
 These are the sons of Ishmael, and these are their 
 names, by their towns, and by their castles ; twelve 
 princes, according to their nations. And these are 
 the years of the life of Ishmael, an hundred and thirty 
 and seven years." 
 
 Thus it appears, that these miserable crea- 
 tures owe their origin to a despised mother. 
 That she herself was a wanderer, and her son 
 • 4 a wild man." The common chronology makes 
 ihis fribe (or the descendants of Ishmael) 399f>
 
 l{)0 ROBBINS' JOURNAL 
 
 years of age ; and the best historical authorities 
 called Profane History, in distinction from Sa- 
 cred History, have always represented them as a 
 despised, abused, degraded, and wandering race. 
 They are now called wandering Arabs; and from 
 many of their religious rites, they seem to have 
 blended together some of " the law that came 
 by Moses," with many of the ceremonies intro- 
 duced by Mahommcd. They circumcise their 
 young according to the first — they worship the 
 prophet according to the last. Their hands or> 
 literally against every man* and every mans hand 
 against them — to this day. 
 
 It is with " trembling solicitude," that the au- 
 thor of this Journal has attempted, very briefly. 
 lo trace the origin of a race of beings, whose ex- 
 istence and modes of life, excite the wonder of 
 an inquiring world. It was not done so much to 
 impart information, as to excite inquiry. It was 
 with the same view he attempted to give a brief 
 historical account of Africa. To give a gloomy. 
 monotonous diary of human sufferings would 
 •' pall upon the senses;" he has, therefore, en- 
 deavored to blend with it such accounts of this 
 quarter of the globe, as he thought tended to il- 
 lustrate the subject of his Journal. 
 
 It was now the 21st September. We had no 
 possible means to determine in what latitude we 
 were situated; but the sun was to the northward 
 of us, and of course, what little shadow any ob- 
 ject made, it was east to the south. The heal 
 was excessive, and I could almost have envied 
 'he natives a tawny skin, that was made to en- 
 dure! it. To me it was distressing in the extreme.
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 101 
 
 Although some of them seemed to pity me for 
 the blistered and parched skin that slightly ad- 
 hered to my flesh ; yet their pity was mingled 
 with contempt that Inglcsis could bear no more. 
 They glory in bearing every thing — hunger, 
 thirst, fatigue, and eVery privation, and pro- 
 nounce that being foorita, or good for nothing, 
 who cannot endure with them. My masters wa- 
 ter was nearly expended, and in the morning of 
 this day, preparations were made to retrace the 
 dismal desert over which we had before travel- 
 led. We started early, and travelled nearly in 
 a north east direction. The sun was my only 
 compass by day, and the north star by night. 
 We travelled rapidly through this day, and I 
 watched, with the utmost care, to see Ifl could 
 recognize any object I saw as we went out ; 
 but I could not. At this time, almost all the par- 
 ties were returning towards a well, and we were 
 frequently in sight of different tents, some near 
 to us, and some at such a distance, that the size 
 of a camel seemed to be diminished to that of a 
 small dog. It reminded me of a fleet of mer- 
 chantmen, recently dispersed by a storm, and 
 all endeavoring to make the same port. No sin- 
 gular object presented itself, nor any event took 
 place upon this day, worthy of description. 
 
 On the 22d, travelled same course, and very 
 rapidly. Our tents were this night pitched. Af- 
 ter I had assisted in making the usual prepara- 
 tions for the night, I cooked my remaining piece 
 of pork, and as I was just about to enjoy the last 
 piece of food of American growth, I was over- 
 joyed to see my master enter his tent with Mr, 
 ^ 12
 
 H)2 BOBBINS JOURNAL 
 
 Savage. My mistress cooked a little rice, and 
 handed it to me. Mr. Savage and I partook of 
 «ihis pork and rice together, by the consent of 
 my master and mistress. I must confess I felt a 
 glow of gratitude to himfor conducting my friend 
 to his tent, and to her, fcfr enabling me to par- 
 fake of what we then deemed a rich repast. 
 They familiarly called me Robtins, and Mr. Sa- 
 vage they called Arr&ne. It is always the first 
 object of an Arab to learn the name of a stran- 
 ger; and as they rarely have but one name 
 themselves, they take either the given or sirname 
 of a stranger, as best suits their whim, or their 
 organs of speech. After learning the name, they 
 ask if he is bono- good, or foonta, which has al- 
 ready been explained. Mr. Savage retired to 
 his master's tent, and I to my bed of sand. 
 
 The next day, (23d) we prosecuted our jour- 
 ney, in company with eight' or ten different fa- 
 milies, making a large party. Mr. Savage's mas- 
 ter bore to the northward, and I was separated 
 from him. We travelled fist ; our water being 
 all expended, and we had no liquid or food ex- 
 cept the milk of the camel, and that bring a ve- 
 ry small quantity for the number of the family, 
 and my pork being expended, I suffered very 
 severely. Toward night we stopped, and the 
 women, as is always the case, sought for a suit- 
 able place to pitch the tent, and pitched it. At 
 night my master entered the tent. I inquire-! 
 after Mr. Savage, and he told me he was but a 
 little way to the northward, and that I should 
 see him again the next day. 
 
 Upon this day, (2ith) the camels having fed
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 10 J 
 
 but a little for two or three days, and the family 
 having eat nothing but a very little milk, we 
 rested after travelling a short distance. The 
 cafpejs browsed upon bushes, and the children 
 went in pursuit of a small root, sometimes found 
 in the shallow rallies. I also went in pursuit of 
 tfee same myself, and found a small quantitv. 
 This root resembles a small white onion, and is 
 about the size of a walnut. The stalk or stem 
 of it is five or six inches high, growing generally 
 in a single blade. There is but little nutriment 
 in it. 1 also found a vegetable that had the ap- 
 pearance of a shepherd-sprout, which 1 saw the 
 natives eat, and ventured to eat myself. It had 
 a bitter taste. For two hours I sought for these 
 roots and sprouts, and ate all found, which 
 were but few ; but as I found my vegetable that 
 was eatable in this ocean of burning sand. 1 
 snatched at it with the utmost avidity, and de- 
 voured it with the keenest appetite. The mem 
 during this time, had gone ahead. I was order- 
 ed to drive the camels L> . and we pro- 
 ceeded on our journey, until about noon; then 
 rising a small hill, we discovered the men seat- 
 ed in a small valley. They made the usual sign. 
 of waving a blanket, for us to approach, with the 
 camels, the tents, &c. loaded upon them. Upon 
 our arrival, the camels were made to kneel, and 
 were unloaded of every thing, except the neces- 
 sary implements to procure water. The goa» 
 skins were made ready to contain water for the 
 family, and the skin basket, or watering tub, for 
 the camels to drink in. My master and bis two 
 sisters went off with the camels and their accou-
 
 104 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 trements in search of a well, leaving me with 
 the rest of the family. I now went forth a soli- 
 tary wanderer, famishing with hunger, parching 
 with thirst, and almost scorching to powder with 
 the dreadful heat of the sun. The camels were 
 gone, and no milk could be had until their re- 
 turn ; and the length of time they would be ab- 
 sent was unknown. Death seemed to stare me 
 in the face ; and death, too, in the very worst 
 shape. To fall in the field of battle— ^to be 
 drowned in the ocean, or to die suddenly with 
 a raging epidemic, is not half so terrible to the 
 imagination, as that of a lingering death by star- 
 vation. I found a few roots, and devoured them, 
 and searching among the thorn bushes I once in 
 a while discovered a snail, which I could obtain 
 in no way, but by thrusting my naked arms 
 through them, and by this I was lacerated and 
 torn from my shoulders to my fingers' ends. I 
 brought my snails to the tent, cooked some of 
 them for my supper, which I was compelled to 
 divide with my mistress and the children, hav- 
 ing neither milk nor water for themselves. 
 
 On the 25th, I started, early in the morning, 
 in pursuit of something to eat, being in a situa- 
 tion that would make me readily devour any 
 thing. My thirst led me to pursue the tracks of 
 the camels, as they had gone in pursuit of wa- 
 ter. I found nothing but a few of the roots men- 
 tioned, which the natives call taloes, to satiate 
 my hunger, and nothing but my own urine to 
 quench my thirst. I wandered about until noon, 
 found a few snails, and returned, roasting and 
 despairing to the tent. Toward night I disco
 
 R0BB1NS' JOURNAL 105 
 
 vcred my master approaching with tlie camels 
 loaded with three goat skins of water, holding 
 about eight gallons each. The sight of camels, 
 although the most odious and deformed looking 
 beasts in nature, had, by this time, become as 
 cheering to my view as a sumptuous feast is to 
 the eye of an epicure ; and well they might; for 
 my very life itself depended upon them. To see 
 them coming with milk in their bags, and water 
 upon their backs, produced a tumultuous joy 
 bordering upon delirium. On being unloaded, 
 my bowl (for I was not allowed to contaminate 
 that of a Mussulman) was filled with water, hold- 
 ing two quarts. This 1 drank off at a draught 
 without stopping, and almost without breathing. 
 I had two motives for this, one to quench my 
 thirst, the other to induce my master to give me 
 more— my thirst was partially quenched, but no 
 more water was to be had. I looked in vain 
 among the Ishmaelitish daughters to find a ten- 
 der hearted damsel, like Rebekah, who bade 
 the servant of Abraham to drink, saving, " I will 
 give thy camels drink also." 
 
 I then proceeded to cook the few snails I had 
 gathered in the gloomy morning that precede,* 
 this evening. This 1 did by pouring them into 
 the sand at the bottom of the tire-hole, after hav- 
 ing scraped away the coals, then covering them 
 with hot sand, and building a fire upon the top. 
 they were roasted in fifteen minutes. These ! 
 ate after my master had examined them, and fell 
 asleep about sun set. I became very much dis- 
 tressed, probably from the roots, vegetables, and 
 snails I had been driven to live upon for some
 
 106 BOBBINS' JOUBNAL. 
 
 days past, and drinking too much water at once. 
 My mistress, having warmed a little milk with 
 heated stones, presented it to me, which I drank, 
 and found much relief. It had now got to be 10 
 o'clock at night, as I judged from the stars, when 
 my master called me up, and asked me if I wish- 
 ed to go and see Arrone, (Mr. Savage.) I answer- 
 ed yes. He took me on the camel, and started 
 off at a long trot to the northward. Being naked, 
 excepting my shortened trowsers, the cold air was 
 very painful : but as I knew my master, if he was 
 so inclined, could afford me no relief, I made no 
 complaint. We rode till one o'clock in the 
 morning. The camel was then permitted to feed 
 upon the diminutive shrubs, and I to sleep naked 
 upon the sand. After sleeping about two hours, 
 I was again mounted on the camel. I began to 
 conjecture that my master was about to offer me 
 for sale, and my conjectures soon became reality. 
 September 26. — By my string, I found I had 
 been eighteen days a slave to my master Ganu3, 
 and I must confess I did not then wish to run the 
 risque of exchanging him for any other descend- 
 ant of Ishmael that I had yet seen. But it was 
 fiot for a slave to choose, to wish, or repine. I 
 affected a total unconcern ; and although I had 
 but little of the lamb in my feelings toward the 
 Arabs, I was determined to appear to be " pleased 
 to the last;" and although I could not in Zahara 
 " crop the flowery food," I had almost got my 
 mind prepared " to lick the hand just rais'd to 
 shed my blood." Hard indeed was this mental 
 submission to a free-born son of New-England ; 
 hard as the pain I endured in my body ;■— but I
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 107 
 
 thought the philosophical advice of Hudibras 
 to Ralpho was applicable to me at this time : 
 
 " Ne'er be so dully desperate 
 
 To join against yourself with fate.'''' 
 
 At about sun-rise I discovered a number of tents 
 ahead, and as we came to one, I saw some ca- 
 mel's meat. Delicious food ! not much worse 
 than that of an old horse ; how I longed to de- 
 vour it ; but like Tantalus in the water, I was 
 only aggravated by the sight of it, as I could not 
 enjoy it. My master, however, begged some 
 boiled blood for me, which I put into my hat, not 
 knowing what it was. He bade me cool, i. e. eat. 
 We again started, and at about eight o'clock 
 came to a valley where we saw a number of ca- 
 mels crossing and passing over a small sand hill. 
 We followed them ; and on reaching another 
 valley, I saw numerous tents. It looked like a 
 great market for the sale of the sons of sorrow. 
 On seeing an old woman, my master asked where 
 the IceUup en-sahrau {Christian dogs) were. She 
 pointed to a hill to the eastward, and upon draw- 
 ing near to it I saw the smoke of a fire, where 
 they had been cooking camel's meat. I ran up 
 to it, hoping either by begging, or stealing, to 
 obtain a bite of it ; but 1 forgot my hunger, my 
 thirst, my misery, and almost myself, upon dis- 
 covering Capt. Riley, Mr. Savage, Clarke, Burns, 
 and Horace. Something whispered to me that 
 my deliverance was near, that the day of my re- 
 demption had come. After exchanging the com- 
 mon tokens of affection, with my beloved ship- 
 mates, I learned from them, that they had been 
 bought. Capt, Riley pointed to two Arabs, te\-
 
 108 • BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 ling me that they had bought him, and those thai, 
 were with him, and had agreed to carry them to 
 the Sultan, (the Arabs call the emperor of Mo- 
 rocco Sooltaun) where their redemption would 
 be certain. He said Hogan, my friend, was with 
 them the day before, and that he supposed the 
 purchasers were waiting to take him also ; and 
 that if they did not, he hoped to persuade them 
 to purchase me. My heart was immediately swol- 
 len with gratitude to my captain for his solici- 
 tude and kindness to me, as miserable a son of 
 Adam as walked upon the footstool of Deity., 1 
 exchanged a little of my boiled blood with Ho- 
 race, for a piece of gristly camel's meat, which 
 I swallowed almost whole. At a small distance 
 off, I saw my master talking very earnestly with 
 the two Arabs who had purchased all my ship- 
 mates just named. Hope lightened my heart 
 and almost deprived me of reason. I almost saw 
 my own country ; I almost felt the embraces of 
 my friends ; although environed by the desert 
 of Zahara, and held in bondage by barbarians. 
 How soon was I dashed from the highest eleva- 
 tion of hope, to the lowest dejection of despair! 
 The two Arabs hastily took my shipmates one 
 way, and my master carried me off another. 
 Capt. Riley tried to console me ; but why 
 " preach patience to those who wring under a 
 load of sorrow ?" My brother sailors will ex- 
 cuse me, when I tell them that I burst into tears. 
 I converted my eyes into two pumps, and in this 
 way I was partially relieved from the bilge-water 
 of sorrow which was about sinking my shattered 
 vessel for ever. I considered my shipmates as
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 10» 
 
 sale, and in the event it proved to be so. While 
 I rejoiced at their good fortune, I grieved, in the 
 very depths of sorrow, at my own calamities, J 
 might with the utmost propriety, exclaim, " Hoio 
 fortune deceives! I had pleasure in tow''' — but now I 
 had it no longer. " My life, steered by misery's 
 chart' 1 '' — I was compelled to continue a captive 
 among the most unfeeling, debased, and degrad- 
 ed race of creatures on earth, the tribe, as \ 
 have before mentioned, which now held me a 
 slave, being so. 
 
 I separated from my shipmates about nine 
 o'clock, A. M. and went with my master in pur- 
 suit of his tent. The camel, being a male, I had 
 no milk ; the goat skins being at the tent, I had 
 no water ; and subsisted through the day upon 
 my camel's blood, which I carried in my hat, ex- 
 posing my bare head to the rays of the sun. The 
 tent was removed, and we did not overtake it 
 till dark, and not having it pitched that night, 1 
 slept in the open chilly air. 
 
 Upon the 27th, we travelled E. S. E. as near 
 as 1 could judge. By this time I had become 
 acquainted with the meaning of some few of the 
 words of the Arabs; and by means of these and 
 signs, I asked my mistress why I was not sold ? 
 Why they did not travel toward Morocco ? And 
 many other questions. Her answer was, that 
 they could not go until the rainy season sat in, 
 which commences generally in January, or, at 
 any rate, it did this year. She said they could 
 •iot support their camels in the dry season, but 
 still encouraged me with the hope that 1 should, 
 some time or other, reach that empire. We 
 
 K
 
 110 ROBBINS 1 JOURNAL. 
 
 travelled, I conclude, in the course mentioned 
 about fifteen miles, and then shifted it to about 
 N. E. The country became more hilly than J 
 had before seen it ; and after passing a number 
 of small hills, we ascended one of considerable 
 height. To the N. E. of it, I saw the largest and 
 deepest valley I had before seen in this country. 
 It ran from N. E. to S. W. and might have been 
 eight or ten miles in length and two miles in 
 width. I regret exceedingly that I cannot in- 
 form my readers of the particular situation of 
 the country I passed ; but as I then had no means 
 to ascertain it, no maps, charts, or instruments, 
 and could derive no information from the illiter- 
 ate Arabs, I will not attempt it. I could judge 
 of the latitude only from the situation of the sun. 
 and as to longitude, I could judge of it from no- 
 thing at all. We must now have been near the 
 tropic of cancer, it being September, and the 
 rays of the sun being nearly vertical. We en- 
 tered this valley at the S. W. end of it, and pass- 
 ed to the S. E. side of it, upon which I noticed a 
 number of very deep gullies, on almost the whole 
 length of the hill, which must have been occa- 
 sioned by heavy rains. The surface in the val- 
 ley was composed of sand, gravel, and small 
 round stones, which were washed from the hill. 
 the gullies having the same kind upon their sides. 
 In one of these gullies, we saw two or three 
 tents. The air was cooler here than it is gene- 
 rally found to be, and I even imagined I saw 
 some appearance of comfort, and no one could 
 need it more: for having been deprived of all 
 my remaining hopes in the morning, it appeared
 
 BOBBINS 1 JOURNAL. HI 
 
 to me through the whole day that it must have 
 been my last, for " hope was deferred," and " my 
 whole heart was sick." They left the camels 
 with me, and the whole family went to the tents. 
 It is an universal custom among Arabs, when 
 the master of one tent or any of his family visits 
 another, to offer them whatever they have to eat 
 or drink ; the whole bill of fare, however, con- 
 sisting of earners meat, milk, and water. "I saw 
 my master and family drinking with them, and 
 my thirst '* almost persuaded me" to wish I was 
 a Mahometan that I might have partaken with 
 them. I was then ordered by signs, to drive the 
 camels to the tents, and as I was approaching 
 one, was met by a young Arab, who told me that 
 there was an en-sahrau (Christian) in one of the 
 tents. The name of en-sahrau was as dear to me 
 as was the name of uncle Toby to a distressed 
 soldier. I had not the most distant conception 
 to what Christian nation he might belong, but it 
 was enough to console me, that he was not a 
 degenerate Mussulman. He was one of my 
 shipmates — it was Porter! I came near rejoicing 
 at his slavery, it gave me such joy to see him. 
 With this worthy fellow, I had been particularly 
 intimate ; and I think my shipmates will all say 
 that we went hand in hand in performing our du- 
 ty like faithful seamen. He appeared less de- 
 jected than many of my shipmates whom I had 
 before seen. His robust body and stout heart 
 enabled him to bear any thing within the com- 
 pass of human endurance. He had on the rem- 
 nants of an old coat, and his trowsers down to 
 his knees, the rest of them, like mine, having
 
 112 R0BB1NS' JOURNAL. 
 
 been declared foonta. I informed him of the 
 good fortune ofCapt. Riley, Mr. Savage, Clarke, 
 Burns, and Horace ; and the near fortune of Ho- 
 gan. He then told me that Hogan and Dick 
 were in the valley above, he having seen them the 
 lay before. My master hailed, Robbinis! and 1 
 was obliged to end my interview, although it was 
 the first I had enjoyed with this good friend since 
 we were enslaved. We passed to the top of the 
 hill through one of the gullies, and travelled up- 
 on the top of it to near the upper end of the val- 
 ley. Then discovering a number of tents, in the 
 yalley below, we descended through another dif- 
 ficult gully, I conclude as many as three hundred 
 feet, and reached them. Here we pitched our 
 tents in sight of, perhaps, thirty or forty others. 
 The camels were put to feed in the valley, and 
 I furnished the necessary fuel for the night. My 
 fatigue was excessive. After eating a little of 
 my blood, ^taken from the camel,) and having a 
 scanty por ion of milk divided out to me, I re- 
 tired to a corner of the tent, and forgot myself 
 and my miseries, in as sound a night's rest as 
 ever a sailor enjoyed. 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Sympathy — Hogan — his situation and feelings— received at the 
 tent of drama — my mistress— fictitious ceremony — power of the 
 female Arabs— gloomy valley — Dick — misery of Slack Afri- 
 cans — Messrs. Wilbcrforcc and Clarkson— American flu g upon 
 
 Zahara desert. # 
 
 September 28th, 1815. 
 
 AS we progress in our volume, we feel a great 
 degree of solicitude lest the detail of individual 
 suffering should become tedious to our readers.
 
 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 113 
 
 The world more readily sympathizes with the 
 joyous than the sorrowing. The joys of the au- 
 thor have been few, his sorrows have been nu« 
 merous ; but he will endeavour to blend with 
 the narration of them, such delineations of the 
 country and descriptions of the peculiar man- 
 ners, customs, and habits of the natives of Afri- 
 ca, as have fallen under his immediate observa- 
 tions, or been derived from the most authentic- 
 sources. 
 
 This day we lay by. After the morning ser- 
 vice was performed, and the camels milked, (the 
 last service invariably following the firs?,) the ca- 
 mels were sent with the boy to feed upon bush- 
 es ; my master went to visit his neighbours ; the 
 female children went in pursuit of roots and 
 herbs ; the women lounged in the tents ; and I 
 laid down under' one to reflect or to sleep, just 
 as reflection came to my sorrow, or sleep to my 
 relief. After remaining here until about eleven 
 o'clock, I saw my half-starved friend Hogan, 
 lurking around the tents; and, judging from the 
 appearance of his mouth, and the rest of his di- 
 minished body, I concluded that he had not 
 " fared sumptuously every. day" since we part- 
 ed. This was the first time 1 had seen him since 
 I parted with him on the 8th at the well. 1 
 could hardly conceive that this sterling sailor, 
 who first ventured to come from the wreck to the 
 shore upon the hawser at Cape Bajador, on the 
 28th of the preceding month, could so soon have 
 lost his firmness and his hope. He appeared 
 depressed, melancholy, and hopeless. He en- 
 tered our tent. This was attended with consi 
 
 K 2
 
 iI4 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 derable difficulty, as my mistress at first refused 
 him admittance ; but upon informing her as well 
 as I could, that he was almost naked, having 
 nothing but a small skin and a piece of sail to 
 wear, and almost melting in the sun, she gave 
 him admission. We sat down together. Ho- 
 sran's master was the first Arab that assailed us 
 
 O 
 
 near Cape Barbas, where we first landed. Ho- 
 gan informed me that his sufferings had been 
 too much for a Christian to bear from suchcurs- 
 ed barbarians ; that he had not been permitted 
 to sleep under a tent since he was enslaved ; 
 that he had been almost starved ever since he 
 had been among them ; and that he expected to 
 die soon unless he could escape. He told me 
 that the two Arabs who bought Capt. Riley, 
 bought him next, and paid for him; and that a 
 dispute arose between his master Mahomet, and 
 Porter's master, who claimed half of him, and 
 that his master had returned the price paid for 
 him (Hogan) and still kept him as a slave. Ma- 
 homet and Porters master continued to quarrel 
 about him : had come to blows upon this sub- 
 ject; and the quarrel was not yet ended. Hav- 
 ing the most painful feelings upon Hogan's me- 
 lancholy relation, I entreated my mistres^ to per- 
 mit me to give him some of my camel's blood, to 
 which she, with some reluctance, consented, and 
 we ate the whole I had remaining, which was 
 but little, relying upon the mercy of my tyrants 
 for my future support. After we had eaten our 
 Mood, my mistress, whom Hogan though! an 
 angel of mercy in comparison to his, gave us a 
 little milk and water. I did not altogether agree
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 115 
 
 with him about the angelic qualities of my mis- 
 tress, knowing that my master had more of the 
 virtues attributed to those celestial beings than 
 what she had. I inquired of Hogan about Dick. 
 He said he was a fellow-slave with him to Ma- 
 homet, and fared much better as to living than 
 he had ; although he was often beaten by his 
 master, and compelled to attend camels from 
 day-light till dark. Hogan tarried with me till 
 towards night, and we agreed to go next day to 
 procure something to eat, either by stealing from 
 the tents, or gathering from the earth, if haply 
 we could find any thing to steal or gather. I re- 
 quested him to ask Dick to come and join us. 
 but he said Dick would not be permitted to 
 come. He went home ; and I did the customa- 
 ry duties of a slave, and retired to all the rest J 
 could enjoy upon sand. 
 
 Upon the 29th, early in the morning, my mas- 
 ter and his family went out before the tent to 
 worship, and took me with them ; having for 
 some days past expressed a wish that I should 
 become a Mussulman, and no longer continue 
 to be a kcllup en-sahrau. I knew I might be a 
 witness, and even a performer of their mode of 
 worship, without becoming a proselyte to their 
 faith ; indeed, I was compelled to go, from the 
 fear of vengeance if I refused. They were ar- 
 ranged upon the sand, in front of the tent. My 
 master Ganus bade me follow his motions. He 
 kneeled down, and washed his hands, arms, and 
 face in the sand. I did the same. He then rose 
 up, facing to the east, and loudly exclaimed. 
 •• Shcda el la lah, Hi Allah — Sheda Mahommcd—
 
 l\Q ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 JRahsool Allah." They generally add, « Hi eah- 
 rah sullah — Hi eahrah sullah." This I also repeat- 
 ed, having learned the pronunciation of it be- 
 fore, although not the meaning. They then cried 
 aloud " Allah HooakibarP I followed them in 
 this likewise. They then fell upon their knees, 
 and, upon rising, said again, " Allah Hooakibary 
 I continued to follow their example, as often as 
 they repeated it. They then went through a 
 catalogue of words, which I could not under- 
 stand, and could not repeat. They concluded 
 with a loud voice, " Suite Mulla;" I said so too. 
 They seemed to be highly pleased with my ap- 
 parent conversion to the Mahometan faith. This 
 was the first time I ever worshipped in the man- 
 ner of a Mahometan; and, lest I should be 
 brought to make a ceremony of worship merely, 
 I declined, as long as I remained in Africa, to 
 Suite in this way ; telling him that an en-sahrau, 
 or Christian, had a different mode of praying. 
 
 Soon after this ceremony (for it was nothing 
 else) was through, Hogan came to my masters 
 tent. I took my sack, which I had made upon 
 landing from the boat, and hung it upon my 
 neck to put snails in, if we should find any. We 
 passed over the hill lying to the eastward of us 
 into an adjoining valley where we found a few 
 snails. At noon, the heat became so intense, 
 that we could not endure it. We returned to 
 within a short distance of my master's tent, 
 where we cooked what few we had gathered, by 
 some fire procured from a tent near us. My 
 master was dissatisfied that I did not bring the 
 snails home, and divide with him and the family
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 117 
 
 Hogan came to the tent, and spent part of the 
 afternoon with me, where we had a little milk 
 and water allowed us, and toward night I ac- 
 companied him to his master's tent 
 
 Upon the 30th, I wandered round with Ho- 
 gan, as I did the day before gathering snails and 
 bewailing our fate. The natives, unless engaged 
 in spinning and weaving, which is but seldom, 
 are listless, inactive, and stupid. They have 
 nothing that serves for pastime or amusement, un- 
 less it can be called recreation for females to comb 
 arid braid each other's hair, and divest it of the ver- 
 min that generally colonize it. They do this and 
 sleep alternately. The men visit eachotheratthe 
 tents, apparently without object ; although when 
 a considerable number are assembled they con- 
 verse together with earnestness, and sometimes 
 go through with the customary worship. When 
 stationary, the men repair their saddles, goat- 
 skins, and watering tubs. The women have the 
 entire control of the tent ; they make the cloths 
 for it, they put them together, they pitch, and 
 strike and repair it. They have all the manage- 
 ment of what may be called domestic economy ; 
 they apportion out the milk and the water, with 
 the accuracy of a sergeant when making out ra- 
 tions, among the master, the children and the 
 slaves, and from their decision upon this subject, 
 there is no appeal. 
 
 October 1st. — Having added another day to 
 the calendar of my captivity by making another 
 knot in my string, I began to ponder with the 
 most gloomy anticipations upon my future fate. 
 As I have already mentioned, my pork was ex-
 
 118 ROBBINS' JOUSNAL. - 
 
 pended ; the country where we were now situ- 
 ated was uncommonly barren even for the de- 
 sert ; my master's camels afforded but a very 
 small quantity of milk, and one of them had be- 
 come entirely dry. The little portion allowed 
 me was hardly sufficient to sustain life ; and my 
 flesh began, moderately, to waste away. To see 
 the gradual, although certain, approach of the 
 king of terrors by the slow ravages of a con- 
 sumption is indeed gloomy ; but, in the enjoy- 
 ment of health, as I was at this time, and with 
 an appetite as voracious as the tigers of the de- 
 sert that I inhabited, to waste away and go 
 down to the grave for the want of food, was too 
 much for the small portion of philosophy impart- 
 ed to me, to endure with fortitude. My own 
 forebodings were rendered doubly aggravating 
 at the situation of my shipmate Hogan, whose 
 despair was as raging as his appetite. He call- 
 ed again this day. Having but little encourage- 
 ment to seek even for snails, we lurked around 
 the tents in the gloomy valley, which seemed 
 hke the valley of the shadow of death. We 
 found some of the old bones of a camel which 
 had first been scraped by the Arabs, next by 
 their dogs, and the remaining part fell into our 
 hands. We gnawed off what little dry gristle 
 was remaining, in doing which, I almost dislo- 
 cated my jaws, and very much injured my teeth. 
 At night we returned to our tents. 
 
 October 2d. — As I was standing near my mas- 
 ter's tent, I saw Dick the cook, descending from 
 the hill where he had been placed to watch ca- 
 mels. He came to the tent. For the first time.
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 1 1 9 
 
 I saw him since the day of our slavery. He was 
 esteemed by the crew as a faithful, active cook, 
 and always did all the duty assigned him with 
 promptitude. He looked pretty hearty, and had 
 better clothing than Hogan. We had been to- 
 gether but a few minutes before he was hailed 
 by his mistress to return. Anxious to see me 
 longer he did not immediately obey. She came 
 after him, struck him on the head with her claws, 
 and pulled him up the hill to the camels. His 
 master immediately knocked him down, and be- 
 gan beating him in the most unmerciful manner 
 with clubs. The poor fellow hallooed and 
 screamed aloud. Never did I more ardently 
 pant to revenge the injury of a shipmate. Rea- 
 dily would I have become one of a body of Ame- 
 rican seamen that would number not more than 
 two to five Arabs, and have commenced imme- 
 diate war. I was desperate, but knew I must be 
 humble, and see my shipmate mauled to pumice. 
 It is singular that the negroes, although Africans 
 like the Arabs, should, even by their own coun- 
 trymen, although of a different tribe, be used 
 with such barbarity. This miserable race of 
 beings seem to be left by their Creator to the 
 cruelty of the whole human race. In every 
 clime, unless, indeed, they become objects of 
 curiosity, as did the negro in Russia, they are 
 beaten, enslaved, and often murdered. What 
 language, then, can be found equal to the grate- 
 ful task of eulogizing the names of Wilberforce 
 and Clarkson, who have devoted their whole 
 lives and great talents to the endeavor of rescu- 
 ing these miserable creatures from the inhuma-
 
 120 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 nity of man ? And what language is adequate 
 to express the indignation of the heart, at that 
 portion of civilized and Christianized man, who 
 continue to capture, enslave, and murder them? 
 I saw no more of poor Dick this day, nor did 
 I ever afterwards see him. He has probably be- 
 come a victim to the merciless Arabs of the tribe 
 of Wiled Lebdessebah. 1 feel myself bound, 
 however, to say that my master, although of this 
 degraded and cruel tribe, was guilty of but lit- 
 tle inhumanity to me. I suffered all but death 
 to be sure when his slave ; but from his situa- 
 tion, I know not how he could have helped it. 
 He was a grave, thoughtful, and regular man ; 
 seldom inflamed with passion, and often bestow- 
 ed favors upon me, which notwithstanding my 
 distress when with him, I remember with grati- 
 tude. While I hope never to bear an injury 
 with mean submission, I also hope, I never shall 
 become so hardened as to forget a favor. My 
 master this day gave me a square piece of the 
 colors of the brig, perhaps a yard and a half 
 square. In the centre of it, I cut a hole to let 
 my head through, and sewed up the sides, leav- 
 ing arm-holes. By this, my body was considera- 
 bly secured from the sun. This was probably 
 the first American flag that was ever hoisted up- 
 on the deserts of Zahara. My mistress, like a 
 true Amazon, determined that the " striped 
 bunting" should not be monopolized by Ameri- 
 can tars every where, took the remainder of it, and 
 " covered herself with glory." Toward evening 
 I went to the tent of Hogan's master to shew him 
 my new uniform, made of the colors under which
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. . 12 J 
 
 we once sailed happily together. It excited feel- 
 ings not to be expressed, or repressed ; but his 
 gloom made almost every object equally indif- 
 ferent to him. The day ended, as it began, in 
 misery. Hogan told me that Dick, the day be 
 fore, offered him some cooked snails, which his 
 master would not suffer him (Hogan) to eat, and 
 that he expected to starve. 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 .i shower — a female fashion — an adventure — a journey — dre$i 
 of a wandering' Arab — smoking — Gum Arabic — slaying a ca ■ 
 mel — a repast— Hogan — Arab hospitality. 
 
 October 3d, 1815. 
 I WENT this day to the tent of Porters mas- 
 ter, about seven miles distance, and found him 
 in it. After tarrying some time, Porter and I, 
 together with his master, and another Arab, each 
 of whom had a musket, went up the valley to a tent 
 where a camel had been killed. The muskets 
 were good double-barrelled pieces, which Por- 
 ter and 1 carried. When we arrived at the tent, 
 some meat was cooked, which the Arabs gree- 
 dily devoured, and gave the bones to us, which 
 we immediately, with our teeth and finger nails, 
 scraped clean of every particle of gristle. Thn 
 Arabs were also treated with milk and water, 
 but none was allowed to us. Porter and his 
 master toward night went home, and I to my 
 master's tent. 
 
 October 4th. — Upon this day I saw what I had 
 never before seen upon the desert — a shower 
 As soon as it commenced, the women went to 
 the rocks upon the hills, with their geddacks and 
 
 L
 
 122 ROBBINS' JOUBJN'AL. 
 
 sponges to gather water. This they did by tak- 
 ing the water from the rocks with a sponge, then 
 squeezing it into the geddacks, or bowls. I laid 
 down upon the rocks and licked and sucked all 
 I could, but was unable to satisfy my thirst. The 
 shower soon passed over, and the burning rays 
 of the sun returned. The women nearly filled 
 a water goat skin, which they call ^illubcn\ with 
 water, and carried it with them to the tent. 
 
 Upon the 5th, I remained in and about the 
 tent. The women were engaged in ripping into 
 pieces the garments they had found at the boat 
 where we landed. They picked out the stitches 
 with a large iron needle, and very carefully pre- 
 served every thread, being vexed when they 
 broke one. They then took the different pieces 
 of the garments, and cut them into small pieces 
 of almost every variety of shapes. My mistress 
 was preparing to make a garment of them for 
 herself. The cloth was all of blue, brown, or 
 black color ; and what possible object they had 
 in cutting it to pieces, I could not imagine. They 
 then proceeded to sew it together. After about 
 fifteen days' labor, she had gotten together 
 enough to make a kind of loose frock, which was 
 sewed to the colors, at her breast and back, and 
 hung loosely down to her knees, her arms re- 
 maining naked to her shoulders. She assumed 
 that kind of consequence when clad in this gar- 
 ment, which is sometimes seen in females that 
 never saw or traversed these deserts. Herii- 
 sitors admired it ; and thought her peculiarly 
 fortunate in having introduced a new fashion. 
 My master. Ganus. with all his Mahometan gra-
 
 itOBBINsi' JOURNAL. 123 
 
 vity, was pleased with the comely appearance 
 of his amiable bride. To see the flag of my coun- 
 try decorating the upper part, and the habit of 
 L 1 . sailor the lower part of my mistress, made me 
 smile myself, 
 
 The next morning, (6th) my master and his 
 two sisters, Muckwoola and Ishir, went with all 
 the camels, about twenty, young and old, after 
 water ; not having watered since the 21th of last 
 month, or as the natives call a month, Shahar. 
 They were gone during this day, and the 7th. 
 and returned upon the 8th, early in the morn- 
 ing. During their absence, I sought for snails 
 and found but few. There was but a small rem- 
 nant of water in the tent ; and the small quan- 
 tity usually allowed me was diminished, so that 
 I was obliged to beg at a neighbouring tent, in 
 the name of my mistress, as this was the only 
 way to obtain it. As I had wandered about five 
 miles from the tent, entirely out of sight of all 
 the tents, I saw a large Arab, with a drawn sci- 
 mitar, approaching me with great rapidity. I 
 leave it to the imagination to form an idea of my 
 feelings, He said, " Soo-mook en tar?" what's 
 your name ? I answered, Robbins, " Robbinis ! 
 Robbinis /" He then asked, " Me-nane jateV I 
 answered, by pointing towards my master's 
 tent. He continued, " lllc-mein en tar f n I an- 
 swered, to Ganus. He seemed by his conduct, 
 to know my master, and said no more ; but eyed 
 me very sharply as I walked hastily from him. 
 The tents began to move away from the valley, 
 leaving my master's almost alone. 
 
 Upon the 8th, early in the morning, my raas-
 
 |24 ROBBLVS' JOURNAL. 
 
 ter, with Muckwoola, Ishir, the camels, and the 
 water, returned, and the tents were immediate- 
 ly struck, preparatory for a departure to some 
 point in the compass, or, as I sometimes thought, 
 to a point not in the compass ; these unthinking 
 creatures seeming to act, half of the time, with- 
 out an}' discoverable motive. Our family start- 
 ed off with the two tents, in company with one 
 of our neighbors, who also had two tents, and 
 about fifty camels ; so that four tents, sixty ca- 
 mels, about twenty Africans, and one American, 
 formed quite a respectable cavalcade. We left 
 the valley, and passed over the hill, bearing to 
 the S. E. 
 
 Upon a journey the usual times of refreshing, 
 eating generally out of the question, is about 
 noon, and eleven o'clock at night. When they 
 have meat, which is seldom, they partake of it 
 once only, and that after dark, lest they should 
 lose a portion of it from its being discovered. 
 When they have nothing either to eat or drink, 
 which is often the case, these particular times 
 and seasons are dispensed with, and the time of 
 refreshing is made up, by a rational creature, 
 with « the feast of reason" and by Arabs, with 
 jabbering and sleeping. We travelled moder- 
 ately and pitched about sunset. 
 
 From the 9th, until the 12th, we travelled gra- 
 dually forward in a S. E. direction. The tra- 
 velling dress of the male Arabs, of the Wiled 
 Lebdessebah tribe, if they have any at all, is a 
 coarse white blanket as the principal article. 
 It is about a yard and a half wide, and five yard?; 
 long. The mode of putting it on, when done
 
 JIOBBINS' JOURNAL. 125 
 
 properly, is by pulling one corner of it over the 
 left shoulder as low as the breast ; then winding 
 it around the back and under the right ann s 
 holding it by the upper edge ; then turning the 
 body quickly round, until it conies under the 
 left arm ; then throwing the upper edge over 
 the head ; then behind the neck upon the right 
 shoulder, the lower edge coming in front as low 
 as the knee ; the remaining part of it is thrown 
 over the left shoulder, hanging loosely behind, 
 some almost to the ground, or according to the 
 length of the blanket. The blanket is made fast 
 next to the body, by a belt of morocco leather 
 with a buckle, Over the whole is thrown a belt 
 from the right shoulder, under the left arm, and 
 sometimes another from the left shoulder under 
 the right arm, crossing at the breast. To these 
 are attached sheathes or powder horns, and in 
 the sheath is put the scimitar, or long knife, such 
 as the owner happens to have. This tribe sel- 
 dom have any under-dress, being so miserably 
 poor that many of them are unable to procure a 
 decent blanket. If they have muskets, of which 
 they appear excessively proud, they generally 
 carry them in their hands, exhibiting them as an 
 < vidence of their wealth, or a proof of their skill 
 in gunnery. 
 
 They all have a kind of leather pouch hang- 
 ing before them, by a strap going round the 
 neck, in which they carry their smoking furni- 
 ture, and tobacco, or weeds, or any thing else 
 that will smoke. In these they also carry their 
 flint and steel, to strike fire with. In one de- 
 partment they carry their tinder, made of a weed 
 
 L 2
 
 126 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 produced in the desert. Their pipes are also 
 carried therein, some of steel and some of wood, 
 and some smoke through the shin bone of the 
 goat. The men are passionately fond of smok- 
 ing if they can get tobacco ; and if they cannot, 
 (hey will smoke pieces of leather. My master, 
 by little and little, smoked up nearly all his 
 pouch. When a number form a circle, the pipe 
 passes from mouth to mouth, each taking two or 
 three whiffs, the last of which furnishes them with 
 a number of puffs through the nose or mouth, as 
 best suits their inclinations. They procure their 
 tobacco from and near Wadinoon. The manner 
 of cultivating it will hereafter be described. 
 
 Upon the 13th, continuing nearly the same 
 course, we discovered a number of tents far 
 ahead. My master, taking the most fleet camel 
 in the drove, went forward. After an absence 
 of four hours, he returned with the head, neck, 
 and part of the entrails of a camel, but we could 
 not enjoy a repast immediately, as there was 
 not brush enough in sight to cook it. We halt- 
 ed at sunset, and it was not until ten o'clock at 
 night, after the most diligent search, that I was 
 able to procure fuel enough to dress it. It was a 
 kind of feast day with the family; and I was per- 
 mitted to rejoice for the bounties of the desert over 
 afew of the guts, which were broiled upon brush, 
 without being washed. They cooked their part 
 of the feast by digging a hole in the earth, and 
 putting the head therein ; then building a fire 
 upon the top of it, it was fitted for the supper- 
 party at about one o'clock in the morning. 
 
 From the 1 4th to the 16th, nothing happened
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 127 
 
 worthy of relation. On the last of these days, 
 my master procured some water from a small 
 valley into which the water, produced by a 
 shower, had settled, it being thick, warm and 
 muddy. We continued in a S. E. direction. 
 
 On the 17th, we shifted our course to the east- 
 ward ; the country became more hilly, and as it 
 became so, there were always more bushes for 
 the camels to feed upon. In this part of this de- 
 sert, we found a few trees about the size of our 
 cherry-trees, resembling a large thorn bush, or 
 tree. It produced a species of gum, for which 
 the natives have a great fondness. It is light co- 
 lored and transparent, and is the real Gum- Ara- 
 bic. In the afternoon we ascended a considera- 
 ble hill, and after descending a part of the way 
 down the opposite side of it, the party stopped, 
 without pitching the tent. We spent the night 
 in the open air, the northeast wind blowing chil- 
 ly upon us. I felt very unwell, and laid down ; 
 and my master, knowing that my indisposition 
 arose from want of food, cooked me a small 
 piece of camel's hide, which, with a little warm 
 milk, and some sound sleep, restored me to 
 health by next morning. 
 
 Upon the 1 8th, having retired to the most se 
 cret place, an event of the greatest immediate 
 importance to me took place ; it was one that \ 
 had long wished to witness, and the temporal) 
 benefits of which, I hoped to experience — it wa^ 
 the butchering of a camel. A young man from 
 our neighboring tent came to my master's as- 
 sistance, and, joining him and his sisters, assist- 
 ed in catching a two-year old camel of the male
 
 128 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 kind. They cast him, and lashed his four legs 
 together. They then made fast a rope around 
 his nose, and drew his head nearly back to the 
 tail, the beast lying upon the side. They then, 
 with a large knife, cut the neck off, close to the 
 shoulder blades — then turning him on his back, 
 they divided the skin from the shoulder to the 
 tail. The entrails were laid upon clean bushes, 
 and the meat being equally divided, was dispos- 
 ed of in the same manner — one half for my mas- 
 ter and his family, the other for his mother and 
 sisters. The mothers name was Annbube. They 
 cut off pieces of the hump, which is somewhat 
 like the brisket of an ox, and ate it raw. I had. 
 in the mean time, gathered together a large 
 quantity of fuel, and they immediately proceed- 
 ed to cook the blood, and with the utmost vora- 
 city devoured the whole of it. This was at about 
 two o'clock, and during the afternoon the wo- 
 men were employed in cutting the lean part of 
 it into thin long slices, and hanging them in the 
 sun to dry. Joy seemed to pervade every heart: 
 and even the rigid features of the Arab were 
 relaxed into something that resembled compla- 
 cency. Supper time was looked for with de- 
 lightful anxiety, knowing that we should then be 
 regaled with the guts of the animal, boiled in 
 the v/ater found in the paunch. After this re- 
 past was disposed of, we all remained in the tent 
 till about midnight, and then I retired to rest 
 with a satisfied appetite ; being the first time 
 since my slavery that I could say the same. Ne- 
 ver, I think, did the most sincere Christian feel 
 more grateful to the Great Giver of temporal
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 129 
 
 blessings, than I did for this refreshment. It is 
 a fact, worthy of observation, that the Arabs kill 
 a camel with the utmost secrecy. When my 
 master killed this one, we were upon a plain 
 that seemed to be without limits, no tent nor hu- 
 man being in sight, excepting the four belonging 
 to our party ; yet, before the skin was of£ rive 
 or six Arabs came bounding over the sandy de- 
 sert, to partake of it. This I noticed was inva- 
 riably the case, so long as I continued a slave to 
 the wandering tribes. 
 
 The next morning, (19th) I was employed in 
 curing the camel's hide, or rather putting it in a 
 situation to be preserved, until after the meat of 
 the beast was consumed. It was cut into small 
 pieces, and thrown into the fire, which, by sing- 
 ing off the hair, and drying it, prepared it to be 
 deposited in the tent and carried upon a jour- 
 ney. The hoofs are disposed of in the same 
 manner. They break all the bones to pieces, 
 and eat all the marrow, uncooked. It is aston- 
 ishing to see what a quantity of marrow is pro- 
 duced from an animal whose meat is so dry and 
 lean. At about ten o'clock, A. M. the master of 
 Hogan, with him, and a number of Arabs, came 
 to our tent ; having discovered, either from the 
 smoke of our fire, or the odour of the cooking 
 meat, that a camel had been slain. Some meat 
 was immediately cooked. I was rejoiced to see 
 a pretty liberal portion allotted to my hungry 
 friend Hogan — who ate as though the genius of 
 famine had long had him in her keeping. He 
 tore off the meat from the hard, unyielding neck 
 of the camel like a tiger ; and preserved a piece
 
 130 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 to carry home to his shipmate and fellow-slave 
 Dick : although his own appetite was not satis- 
 fied. The visiters, in the mean time, were sa- 
 tiating their appetites. It has been before re- 
 marked, that the Arabs always treat their visiters 
 with what they have ; it is always expected— 
 and if it is known that a camel has been 
 slain, and the owner conceals the meat, or 
 declines to impart a portion, the highest in- 
 dignation is excited. During these visits, the 
 master and mistress never eat themselves, but 
 wait upon their guests. Whether this practice 
 arises from real hospitality* or from some article of 
 their faith, I know not, but I strongly suspect the 
 latter. Not having with me the Koran* I cannot 
 ascertain it. Those of my readers, who are ac- 
 quainted with the system introduced into the 
 world by that wonderful production, may pro- 
 bably settle the question for themselves. 
 
 After the meat was eaten, the guests were 
 served with milk and water, and retired highly 
 gratified ; not probably so much from a princi- 
 ple of gratitude, as from the relief obtained for 
 
 their hunger. 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 A storm of sand — distress — a great story — Porter's sickness — v 
 dismal plain — rapid travelling — nauseous water — description 
 of a well in Zahara desert — marble mountain — deep valley, 
 and monument — impossibility of escaping — Spaniard — vieze 
 of the ocean — Cape Mirik — author sold to another Arab of the 
 tribe of Wiled DUcim. 
 
 FROM the 20th, to the 22d of October, we 
 (ravelled leisurely to the southward end west
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 131 
 
 ward. Every morning, after the sun had reach- 
 ed a considerable height, the party stopped, and 
 hung out the slips of meat upon the tents or 
 Sushes to dry. The country became more hilly 
 and more sandy. Those who have seen the 
 sandy hills at Cape Cod, in a violent gale of 
 wind, can form a faint idea of the country over 
 which we were now passing. The trade wind 
 Mew a gale almost constantly. The atmosphere 
 was filled with hot sand, as ours is with snow in 
 a snow storm. The vertical rays of the sun beat- 
 ing upon a body almost naked — the sand filling 
 the eyes constantly exposed — the feet sinking, 
 ancle deep, into the sand at every step, made 
 travelling all but destruction. My ears, and 
 nose, and sometimes my mouth, were literally 
 filled with sand — the one almost lost the sense 
 of hearing — the other that of smelling, and the 
 last that of tasting. The tent could not be pitch- 
 ed, as the sand would not hold the tent pegs. 
 We had no water to spare for the grateful exer- 
 cise of washing, and, as a most disgusting sub- 
 stitute, I was compelled to make use of my own 
 urine, in washing my face, arms, and hands. A 
 few more such day's travelling, I think, would 
 have put an end to my life and my slavery. 
 
 Upon the 23d, we travelled to the southward. 
 The wind moderated considerably, and at about 
 noon, we stopped, and unloaded the tents. My 
 master's only son, about twelve years of age, 
 named E//e, told me that Joe was in a tent at a 
 little distance off I knew he meant Porter, and 
 he and I went in pursuit of the tents to the north- 
 ward. After travelling three or four miles, we
 
 j 32 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 called at a tent which was owned by Mr. Sa- 
 vage's former master. I also saw my master 
 Ganns, who was assisting in butchering a camel. 
 I was immediately sent to gather dry bushes 
 which were scarce, and continued as much as 
 three hours in this laborious service. By this 
 time, the camel was dressed. They had pro- 
 cured a brass kettle, into which they threw some 
 meat, entrails, &c. and boiled them in the paunch 
 water. Of this, they all partook liberally. As 
 a compensation for my toil, they gave me the 
 fcctus of a young camel, found in the one they had 
 killed, about the size of a rat. I pushed it into 
 the fire and sand under the kettle, and after 
 roasting it, was permitted to swallow the whole ca- 
 mel myself Extreme hunger made this a deli- 
 cious meal. Porter's master was also here, and 
 asked mine to let me go to his tent to see /oc, as 
 he was sick. Liberty was granted, and I visited 
 him at nearly sunset. He had been sick a num- 
 ber of days with the head-ache, and had been 
 bled in the head by the natives with a jack- 
 knife, which they call Umoose. He looked sick, 
 had lost much flesh, and was extremely deject- 
 ed. Although the common cant of advising in 
 such a case rather aggravates than mitigates 
 sorrow, I ventured to urge him to exercise all 
 the fortitude he could ; and as it was the will of 
 our Maker that we must suffer, we ought to make 
 the best we could of our situation, wretched as 
 it was. I fully believe that it was from this sen- 
 timent, that my own life was preserved ; and 
 that by this, I was kept from perishing upon the 
 deserts of Zahara.
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL-. 133 
 
 We travelled, during the 24th, over deep 
 *and ; but upon the 25th, early in the morning, 
 we all reached a boundless plain, stretching, 
 apparently, an immeasurable distance to the 
 south east, south west, and north west. The 
 surface of the earth was hard, mixed with small 
 stones, mostly baked in it. It appeared to be 
 as hard as a pavement ; and the hoof of the ca- 
 mel made not the least impression upon it. If 
 could not be more dissimilar to the country me 
 had just passed than it was. At sun rise, the 
 camels were stopped, and, as usual, service was 
 performed. I cannot call that divine service, 
 which was performed in honour of Mahommed 
 Our water was wholly exhausted, there being 
 not a drop remaining in either tent. A little 
 dried meat was still left. We entered upon thi* 
 plain, and to me the most gloomy entry I ever 
 made upon any part of the earth. The natives 
 must have known that the course we were tra- 
 velling would lead to a well, or they never would 
 have ventured upon it. This was to me the on- 
 ly consolation. By about noon, having travel- 
 led very fast, we reached the centre of this 
 plain. The country presented to my view the 
 most melancholy prospect that I can possibly 
 imagine can exist in nature. It appeared to be 
 an exact water level. The sea, in a dead calm { 
 never, to my eye, appeared smoother ; and the 
 earth was as destitute as that of every shrub, 
 plant, or weed. It seemed as if the genius of 
 famine and drought, held here their cheerless do- 
 minion. Neither man, beast, nor even insect, 
 could subsist upon it, and neither were within
 
 134 BOBBINS' JOUBNAL. 
 
 sight, except our party. We fled across it as we 
 would have fled from the city of destruction. At 
 nearly sunset we again Teached a more sandy 
 country. We continued to travel until ten 
 o'clock at night; and having found a few bushes, 
 the wearied camels were stopped to feed. Hav- 
 ing started in the morning at about one o'clock, 
 by the stars, as I judged, and travelling with 
 amazing rapidity, until ten o'clock at night, we 
 must have gone as many as ninety miles. The 
 course we travelled was to the S. W. We only 
 threw off the tents, and resting till nearly day 
 liglit, again started upon the journey. Not hav- 
 ing drank a single drop of water the day before, 
 nor during this night, my thirst was so excessive, 
 that I thought I could not survive it. We, how- 
 ever, drove on as usual at a full trot ; and did 
 not, until the next day, (26th) at twelve o'clock, 
 find any water. My master then procured a 
 draft for us all, at a tent ; and this, with a few of 
 the roots and sprouts before mentioned, in some 
 measure, satisfied me. We stopped but a few 
 minutes ; and the country becoming hilly, and 
 the night dark, we travelled, full speed, over 
 hills and vallies, till twelve o'clock. We must 
 have gone cs many miles this day as we did the 
 preceding one, being the most rapid travelling 
 I ever witnessed upon camels. The tents were 
 thrown off, and the camels fed ; a little meat was 
 cooked for the party, and as soon as this was 
 finished, we started again. For the past day, 
 our course was about west. We drove on with 
 the greatest rapidity until the next day, (27th) 
 at about noon, when, to my inconceivable joy.
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. ij5 
 
 we reached a "well. But upon attempting to 
 taste the water, notwithstanding the extremity 
 of my thirst, it was with the greatest difficulty I 
 could force it into my throat, or retain it there 
 when I had. It was more offensive than the 
 most nauseous bilge-water — it had turned green 
 by stagnation, and reddish by the quantity of 
 camel's dung mixed with it ; but it was our only 
 resource, " and we must drink or die" 
 
 This was an interior well, which is seldom 
 found far into the deserts. This well was one 
 of great depth. When the natives begin to dig 
 a well, they furnish themselves wi^h all the largest 
 bushes or trees in the adjoiningjeountry, some 
 of which are of the sizo of a man's thigh. These 
 they cut into poles of about six feet in length. 
 After they have penetrated a small depth into 
 the' earth, they put three of these sticks into 
 holes, made in the sides of the well, leaving a 
 triangular hole in the centre, of a sufficient size 
 to let down and draw up the water-bucket. 
 These poles are placed thick at the top, and 
 further apart as the earth grows harder. In this 
 way they continue to descend into the earth, 
 passing the earth up in bowls from one to the 
 other to the top, and inserting the stakes as 
 mentioned, when necessary. After they have 
 descended a considerable depth, they draw up 
 the earth in leathern buckets, by means of a 
 rope, having no windlass or sweep, to assist bo- 
 dily strength in this laborious operation. In- 
 deed, this tribe seemed to have no idea of ma- 
 chinery of the most simple kind, to facilitate the 
 construction or manufacture of any thing, or to
 
 ^36 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. * 
 
 save manual labor. They continue in this man- 
 ner to descend, until they come to water. Look 
 ing down the well, as far as light will enable the 
 eye to discern, the observer sees a regular tri- 
 angle in the centre. These cross-sticks furnish 
 a ladder, by which the natives descend to clear 
 the well of sand, which is constantly blowing 
 into its open surface; these stupid creatures 
 seldom having sagacity enough to prevent this 
 by covering the top. The water is drawn from 
 the well in a leathern bucket, made of tanned 
 camel's or goat's skins. The top of it is a cir- 
 cular hoop, ove* 1 which the skin is sewed, form 
 mg a round vessel at the sides and bottom, hold- 
 ing about three gallons. Three ropes are fas- 
 tened to this hoop, equi-distant from each other, 
 and these to the one by which it is let down. 
 The country in which this well was situated was 
 the deepest and most extensive valley I had yet 
 seen; surrounded, excepting to the westward. 
 by high rocky hills. On the east side, I saw and 
 examined immense ledges of the most beautiful 
 white marble. As I was descending into this 
 valley, my distress could not suppress my admi- 
 ration, at beholding an immense rock of white 
 marble, standing perpendicularly, and entirely 
 detached from the ledge, which formed the east- 
 ern limits of it. On a distant view, I immediate- 
 ly imagined it to be some castle for the defence 
 of an adjoining city, or the palace of some Afri- 
 can prince. I felt confident that I was approach 
 ing some great city. I continued to approach ; 
 and almost forgot my hunger and thirst in the 
 anticipated gratification of my curiosity. At
 
 BOBBINS' JOURNAL 137 
 
 length, I came to this astonishing monument — 
 went round it — examined it as minutely as I pos- 
 sibly could, and could not discover upon it the 
 (east trait of human art. My expectations wrei-2 
 blown away by the wind that whistled round it, 
 and my readers must excuse me for not sajing 
 any thing more about it, only that it w r as, at the 
 base, in the shape of a parallelogram, or oblong 
 square, as near as I could judge, of one hundred 
 ieet in length, and sixty in breadth. Its height 
 must have been from seventy to eighty feet. 
 After stating the simple fact, I leave it to the cu- 
 rious, the philosophical, the inquisitive, and the 
 wondering, to make conjectures for themselves. 
 This valley was, to appearance, the most fertile 
 place I had seen, j It was the first earth I had 
 walked upon in Africa, that seemed susceptible 
 of cultivation. It was mostly a clay-soil, and 
 considerable grass was growing, or rather stand- 
 ing, as the excessive drought this season had 
 dried up every thing. The grass resembled that 
 which grows in what is called, in New-England, 
 boggy meadows. Toward night we left this val- 
 ley, and passed through the opening hill to the 
 southwest, having fitted but two goat skins with 
 the offensive wate.i found in the well. I carried 
 a bowl full, however, four or five miles, fearing 
 I should be destitute of water of any kind. We 
 stopped for the night, and cooked a little dried 
 meat, by putting small hard pieces into the fire, 
 roasting it, taking it out and pounding it in a 
 maress* or mortar. 
 
 Upon the 28th, we travelled moderately to 
 the southwest, until noon, when the tents were 
 
 M 2
 
 ^8 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 pitched, for the first time, for a number of days 
 Even the stomach of an Arab could no longer 
 endure the water we had ; and my master and 
 his sisters having learned from a passing party, 
 that water was at no great distance, went in pur- 
 suit of some of a better kind, if comparisons of 
 quality are allowable between different sorts, all 
 of which would nauseate a beast. 
 
 On the next day, (29th) Muckwoola and hhir 
 returned, bringing with them some fresh water. 
 and some dried fish-skins, or fragments of fish, 
 which had before been deprived of the better 
 part. Some of this was allowed me for supper; 
 and as it was a rarity, having lived upon camel's 
 hide, meat, and bones for some time, I ate it with 
 the best appetite. My master Ganus did not 
 return with his sisters. I was left under the 
 command of the women once more ; and, as 
 usual, found my privileges abridged as female 
 authority prevailed. We remained stationary 
 until the next day, at noon, (30th) then start- 
 ed and bore to the N. W. and travelled mode- 
 rately, during that and the next day, (31st.) 
 
 November 1st, 1815. — From this day until the 
 HJd, we continued to travel moderately, and as 
 we passed along, the country became more hil- 
 ly ; nothing took place of any consequence. On 
 our passage we saw a few small locusts, which 
 we gathered and ate. Upon the 3d, my master 
 returned to his tent, after an absence of six days, 
 it being his longest absence since I was his 
 slave, bringing with him one piece of tent cloth. 
 Having often mentioned that I wandered off at 
 a distance, and frequent opportunities occurring
 
 ROBBLNS' JOURINA,.. 139 
 
 to make my escape, it may excite wonder that 
 I did not attempt it. The description I have at 
 tempted to give of the country seems to be a 
 sufficient reason. Had I attempted it, starva- 
 tion must have been the final result, if I had nol 
 been taken by another master before this took 
 place. Let the reader imagine to himself a de- 
 sert of eight hundred miles in width, and more 
 than two thousand in length, furnishing nothing 
 for the subsistence of human beings, but camels, 
 and these always in possession of individuals, 
 parties, or caravans. Let him also picture to 
 himself a solitary wanderer upon this desert, 
 without food or water, and without any means 
 to procure either, and liable every day, and al- 
 most every hour, to be encountered by the na- 
 tives, who are passing it in every direction, he 
 will conclude that the means of escape were of 
 the most unpromising nature. I might as well 
 have escaped from a ship, by plunging into the 
 ocean. At Wadinoon I afterwards became ac- 
 quainted with a Spaniard, who attempted, upon 
 a male camel, to escape. He assured me that 
 he tra-. elled the desert thirty days without wa- 
 ter, and without any food, excepting a fox which 
 he killed. That at the end of this time, he and 
 his stolen camel were taken by another tribe, 
 and he became a slave to them. He was after- 
 wards demanded by his first master ; but abso- 
 lutely refused to return again into the tribe of the 
 Lebdcssebuii, and seizing a musket, threatened the 
 life of him. His former master relinquished the 
 attempt to reclaim him, and he continued a slave 
 until the time he and I were, upon the same day,
 
 140 ItOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 ransomed. He assured me that he had been in 
 slavery seven years. I shall again have occa- 
 sion to mention this Spaniard. 
 
 My master ordered the tents to be struck up 
 on his return, and we proceeded to travel in a 
 northern direction. I went ahead with my mas- 
 ter, delighted again to be relieved from the 
 thraldom and irksomeness of female government, 
 which, wherever it prevails, being founded in 
 less reason, is accompanied with more tyranny 
 than that of men. Toward night, we overtook 
 a sick woman upon a camel. She was the first 
 female Arab whom I had seen dangerously sick ; 
 indeed it was rare to see even the slightest in- 
 disposition among them. I assisted her in dis- 
 mounting, after the camel was made to kneel. 
 My master's family overtook us, and the tent 
 was pitched. After taking a little milk, I turn- 
 ed in. 
 
 The next morning. (4th) before day -light we 
 were on the march for another watering-place. 
 i was permitted to go with the party to the well, 
 being the first time, since my slavery, that I was 
 allowed so to do, being always before left be- 
 hind with the tent. . This variation from the usu- 
 al custom excited a suspicion in my mind that I 
 was to be sold ; as the large watering-places are 
 generally the market for slaves. In travelling 
 toward it, we passed over hills of sand. When 
 at the top of them, I saw the ocean ! I knew it 
 must be the Atlantic, from the course we had 
 travelled. I ardently panted to be on the bo- 
 som of it, as the waves thereof might waft me to 
 the regions of civilization — and might waft me
 
 ROBBING JOURNAL. Ml 
 
 to ray beloved country. In the valley below, I 
 saw a great multitude of camels around the 
 wells, there being a number in this valley. The 
 camels knew there was water below, as well as 
 their riders ; and after descending a part of the 
 way down the steep hill, the forward camels be- 
 gan to run. My camel followed the example ; 
 and as the mouth of this beast never submitted 
 to the restraint of the bit, never having been 
 bridled, I was precipitated down the hill with a 
 velocity with which I had before been unac- 
 quainted ; and when I arrived at the well, 1 
 might have said, as Gilpin did when he reached 
 Ware, " I came, because my camel would 
 come." The wells were situated near each 
 other ; but from the number of camels that are 
 constantly coming to drink, they are obliged to 
 keep them off, if possible, till those drinking arc 
 satisfied. This is done with very great difficul- 
 ty. After the camels are sufficiently watered, 
 they are sent to browse. The natives never 
 bring their tents to a well, leaving them behind 
 in the keeping of the women. I now had as 
 much water as I wanted ; and can say, that it 
 was the first time my thirst was thoroughly 
 quenched, since I became a slave toGanus. The 
 tents must have been as many as fifty miles back 
 in the desert ; for they always remain where 
 they are left, when the owner goes in search of 
 water, until he returns. We slept this night un- 
 der a large bush with a large company, and kept 
 a fire for the most part of the night. 
 
 Upon the 5th, early in the morning, the ca- 
 mels were all watered again, as they are some-
 
 j42 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 times compelled to go entirely without it for 
 twenty days, and sometimes for a longer period 
 My master Ganus expressed great anxiety that 
 my short trowsers should be washed ; and told 
 me to take them off This left my body entirely 
 naked, excepting that part of it which was co- 
 vered with the American flag, and which he did 
 not attempt to compel me to strike. They were 
 hung upon a camel to dry, and this was the last 
 time I ever saw them, or Muckwoola and Ishir. 
 who carried them off with them. 
 
 I was now taken on to a camel behind my mas- 
 ter, who, in company with another Arab, went 
 off full trot to the southward. Before noon, we 
 met numbers of the natives who had fresh rish 
 with them. We obtained a breakfast of them. 
 By the middle of the afternoon, we came to the 
 edge of an high precipice, limiting a considera- 
 ble bay, a little ta • the north of Cape Mirik. We 
 descended to the beach, at the head of the bay, 
 which had in it a number of sand islands. The 
 tide was now out, leaving it dry, and we passed 
 along at the base of the precipice, and discover- 
 ed a number of shallow wells, having brackish 
 water in them. We continued to travel upon 
 the beach until we came to a number of pitched 
 tents, and here I first saw a kind of hut or wig- 
 wam, constructed by erectingtwo crotches about 
 ten feet apart — laying a pole on them, and from 
 this extendi: .; poles to the ground, and cover- 
 ing them wit ea-weed, giving them the shape 
 of a thatched roof. Within, the natives have a 
 bed made also of sea-weed ; but lest they should 
 blunder upon something that looks like the con
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 4 43 
 
 venience and comfort of civilized life, they are 
 careful to make them so low that a human being 
 cannot stand erect in one of them. We dis- 
 mounted near a hut. My master went off, and 
 I sat down, in a kind of trance, gazing upon the 
 bay before me, and upon the point of Cape Mi- 
 nk, stretching into the sea. Soon after my mas- 
 ter returned with three or four Arabs, one of 
 whom was soon pointed out as my second master. 
 He bade me stand up — told me to walk, and 
 viewed me with the closest scrutiny. I suspect- 
 ed he was about to open my mouth to judge df 
 my age by my teeth, and examine my feet to see 
 if I had been foundered by high living with my 
 master Ganus, mistress Sarah, misses Muckwoo- 
 la and Ishir ; but he dispensed with these cere- 
 monies, seemed to be pleased, and said f was 
 not foonta, but bono. He bade me follow him. 
 We went some distance to one of the huts, where 
 he begged some dried fish for me which I ate. 
 
 I now became the property of another Arab. 
 I felt but little anxiety at this exchange, know- 
 ing that my situation could not be rendered 
 much worse, although I was sensible that Ganus 
 was not so bad as some of the Arabs I had seen. 
 At first sight, I was pleased with my new mas- 
 ter. He was a little over thirty, by his appear- 
 ance. He had an open, ingenuous countenance, 
 with but little of that fiery malignity so univer- 
 sally seen in the tribe of the Lebdessebah. His 
 name was Mahomet Meaarah, of the tribe of the 
 Wiled DHeim, his tent being some distance in the 
 interior. 
 
 The readers of this Journal thus far will per-
 
 |44 ROBBDTS' JOURNAL. 
 
 ceive,that the author has confined himself strict- 
 ly to what passed under his immediate observa- 
 tions. He has absolutely prohibited himself 
 from incorporating with his narration, any of the 
 vague, and generally deceptive stories, which 
 he had heard from the illiterate and brutish race 
 of creatures, among whom he was enslaved. 
 Had he done this, the volume would have alrea- 
 dy been filled. His steady object has been to 
 give an accurate idea of that part of the Zahara 
 desert over which he travelled. It cannot have 
 a geographical accuracy, because he had no 
 means to ascertain the latitude of the country 
 over which he travelled, or rather was trans- 
 ported, but by the situation of the sun, and by 
 the shade which his own body cast upon the 
 sand of this immense desert. As to the man- 
 ners, customs, and habits of the tribe, with which 
 he had thus long continued, he hopes the reader 
 has acquired some correct ideas. He has at- 
 tempted to describe their implements of manu- 
 facturing, cooking, and travelling — their habi- 
 tations, and particularly their mode of worship. 
 The result of this relation and description is be- 
 fore the reader, and it is hoped it may at least 
 furnish some amusement, if it is destitute of in- 
 struction. We now take leave of the wretched 
 tribe of the Wiled Lebdessebah, and whatever has 
 been seen among the Wiled D^leim of a similar 
 nature, we shall not repeat, but merely allude 
 to. Whatever was noticed of a different nature 
 in this tribe, we shall continue patiently to de- 
 tail, and faithfully to describe.
 
 ROBBINS* JOURNAL. lib 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Africa — the Coast — Interior — Deserts— Mountains — Capes**- 
 Rivers — Islands — Straits. 
 
 THE attention of the reader having been foi 
 ?ome time devoted to that part of Africa called 
 Zaham. or the Great Western Desert — to the pe- 
 culiarities of the wandering Arabs who inhabit 
 it, and to the sufferings of the author upon it ; ii 
 may be an useful way to relieve it, by changing 
 attention from a section of this continent to a ge- 
 neral view of the whole. It is not intended to 
 give a minute geographical description of each 
 kingdom, as such more properly belongs to the 
 geographer than the journalist. In our histori- 
 cal chapter we endeavored, in a compressed 
 manner, to trace the progress of discoveries, and 
 settlements upon this continent. In this, it is 
 intended merely to describe the relative local 
 situations of the different countries or kingdoms, 
 situated upon this immense Peninsula, compris- 
 ing at least one quarter of the whole globe. The 
 most accurate information we can obtain of thi* 
 continent is at best but imperfect; and our li- 
 mits preclude us from giving any thing but a ge- 
 neral account. In our historical chapter, we 
 attempted to assign the reason, why this portion 
 of the world is so little known, while the other 
 continents, even that of the new world, Ameri- 
 ca, have been almost wholly explored and de- 
 scribed. To that, we refer the reader ; and al- 
 so to that, we refer him for the boundaries of 
 this continent (page 38.) 
 
 N
 
 146 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 Africa is divided, nearly in the centre, by the 
 Equator ; of course the greatest part of it is si- 
 tuated within the torrid zone. The whole of it 
 is either exceedingly fertile, or extremely bar- 
 ren. Its fertility is occasioned by the great 
 sources of vegetation, heat and moisture. Heat 
 prevails every where ; but moisture in particu- 
 lar portions. Where the latter prevails, this 
 country is one of the most productive in the uni- 
 verse — where it is deprived of rain, it is '• all 
 barren." This continent differs from the other 
 three great ones, in almost every respect. In 
 the others, the sea coast is generally the most 
 barren ; in this, the interior is so. Upon the 
 coast, are regions abounding with every luxury 
 which nature pours into the lap of indulgence ; 
 much of the interior is a boundless waste of de- 
 serts. A vertical sun, pouring burning rays up- 
 on dry sand, defies the progress of vegetation. 
 Even upon these deserts, a race of beings is found 
 to subsist. With the curse of Ishmael upon their 
 devoted heads, and sordid hearts, they flee the 
 regions of fertility and civilization, and seem to 
 delight in sterile barrenness, and human misery. 
 
 It has been remarked, that this continent, in 
 shape, resembles a triangle, with irregular sides. 
 Beginning at the northeast point, Egypt is situ- 
 ated, bounding east upon the Red Sea, and north, 
 upon the Mediterranean, and the Isthmus of 
 Suez, uniting this continent there with Asia. 
 This section of Africa has long been celebroted. 
 and is well known in sacred and profane histo- 
 ry. Continui.ig west upon the northern bounda- 
 ry of this continent, and along the shores of the
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. J47 
 
 Mediterranean, Barca, Tripoli, Tunis, Algierc, Fez, 
 and Morocco, are situated, reaching the north- 
 ;ioint, at the Straits of Gibraltar. All these 
 countries are possessed by Arabs and Moors, al- 
 though with them are intermingled other na- 
 tions. It is generally termed the Coast of Bar- 
 bary. The history of these distinct states, or 
 kingdoms, is known to every historian, and their 
 geographical situation to every geographer. 
 For centuries they have been, and still are, the 
 terror of the civilized world. Nations, the most 
 powerful by land and by sea, have condescend- 
 ed to pay them tribute, and to ransom their un- 
 fortunate countrymen who are there enslaved. 
 They infest the adjoining oceans with their con- 
 temptible navies, and upon land they are invin- 
 cible ; not from their numbers or their military 
 science, but from the facilities afforded them by 
 their country, to avoid conquest by the best dis- 
 ciplined armies. Destroy their naval armaments, 
 and batter down their capitals, they still have a 
 safe retreat in their mountains and in their de- 
 serts, where a civilized army cannot subsist. 
 The mention of Tripoli calls up the proud re- 
 collection of the infancy of the American Navy. 
 It was upon the coast of that country, that Ame- 
 ricans began to learn how to conquer upon the 
 ocean. It was their achievements there that 
 occasioned the prophetic JVelson to see, in the 
 infancy of our navy, the future rival of that of 
 Britain. The mention of Algiers makes us re- 
 member a recent achievement of this navy as 
 she is approaching towards manhood. 
 
 Upon the Western boundary of Africa, are si-
 
 148 BOBBINS' JOURNAL 
 
 tuated Suse, Azanaga, North-Guinea, or SenegaL 
 embracing the country of the Jaloffs, Foulahs, 
 Fehops and Mandingoes — South-Guinea, con- 
 taining the Pepper Coast, the Ivory Coast, and the 
 Gold Coast — East-Guinea, or the Slave Coast, in 
 which is situated the kingdoms of Whidah, Ardra, 
 and Benin. The next great division of the wes- 
 tern coast is Congo, comprehending the king- 
 doms of Loango, Congo, Angola, Matamba, and 
 Berwwla, It is upon this coast that the Slave 
 Trade lias so long, to the indelible disgrace of 
 ihe Christian world, been prosecuted. The in- 
 habitants are described, by all historians, as 
 mild and peaceable. Possessing a country of 
 great fertility — having no means of making con- 
 quests, or extending dominion, they remain 
 where nature has placed them, unmoved by the 
 sordid demands of avarice, or the more splendid 
 and guilty calls of ambition. The different tribes. 
 or kingdoms, sometimes make war upon each 
 other; but they are urged on to warfare by 
 European and American merchants, to capture 
 each other to furnish slave-ships with their car- 
 goes. With a few paltry toys, calculated to 
 catch the fancy of untutored barbarians, they 
 induce the natives to prey upon each other, and 
 exchange their countrymen for baubles. After 
 doing this, a Christian merchant, excuses him- 
 self by saying, the Africans enslave each other! 
 This reasoning may be conclusive before a tri- 
 bunal of slave-merchants, assembled in a prince- 
 ly mansion, that owes its splendor to human 
 blood, but all the courts of Europe have very 
 recently, by common consent, united to wipe the
 
 ROBBLNS' JOURNAL. 149 
 
 tbul stain from the character of their respective 
 nations, impressed upon them by this inhuman, 
 detestable, and diabolical traffic. The Consti- 
 tution of the United States is the first one that 
 absolutely prohibited it. 
 
 Upon the western coast is also situated the 
 country of the JVamacpias, and of the Hottentots ; 
 which, together with the colony of the Cape of 
 Good Hope, comprehends the southern point of 
 the continent, and stretching quite across it to 
 the eastern side. 
 
 Upon the eastern side of this continent are sit- 
 uated Inhambane, Monica, Sabia, Sofala, and Mo- 
 caranga. Continuing east, toward Cape Guarda- 
 fui and the Straits of Babelmandel, the kingdoms 
 of Mozambique, Mongolia, Quiloa, Montbaza, Melin- 
 da, and Monoemngi, the republic of Brava, and 
 the kingdom of Magadoxa, are situated. Adel'is 
 an extensive kingdom, embracing an immense 
 country around Cape Guardafui, the easternmost 
 point of the continent. From this Cape, to the 
 Isthmus of Suez, this continent is bounded east- 
 erly upon the Arabian Gulf which reaches to that 
 place. 
 
 We have now conducted the reader around 
 the Coast of this immense triangular peninsula. 
 We have mentioned the principal countries as 
 they succeed each other, beginning at Egypt, 
 and following the coast along its northern, western^ 
 And eastern sides, until we again reached that 
 plnce situated near the Isthmus of Suez. The 
 geographical knowledge of the reader will rea- 
 dily enable him to supply that minute informa- 
 tion which our limits preclude us from detailing. 
 
 N2
 
 jjQ ROBBINS' journal. 
 
 The Interior of Africa is known more from 
 vague conjecture than accurate description. 
 Marty hardy travellers have, at the hazard ot 
 life, (see historical chapter,) explored parts of 
 it. Abyssinia has long been celebrated by the 
 geographer, and the scholar. The one makes it 
 the region of fertility, having the sources of the 
 Nth. Within its limits — the other converts it into 
 the region of romance. The classical Johnson. 
 in his t; Prince of Aoyssinia" gives us an idea of 
 a distinct world. His Rasselas has dressed this 
 kingdom in all the charms, which the most fer- 
 tile imagination and classical mind can impart to 
 a terrestrial region. 
 
 The description of the country situated upon 
 the Niger, under the general name of Soudan. 
 transports the mind of the reader to a region en- 
 tirely the reverse Fbis part of the continent, 
 although watered by a majestic stream, and ha- 
 ving an adjoining country of great fertility, seems 
 to be thnt region where the wrath of Heaven, 
 against man, is for ever to be displayed. The 
 denunciation Hhe descendants of Ishmael 
 
 stands yet univ>. sed — the innocent blood of 
 the Messiah yet rests upon the head of his mur- 
 derers,and here, in the GreatDesert of 'Zahara,?iru\ 
 in other parts of the interior, they both remain a 
 standing miracle. The knowledge we posses- 
 of this desert is principally derived from the 
 Christian slaves, who have there been suffering 
 witnesses of the manners, customs, and habits of 
 the wandering Arabs; and famishing wanderers 
 ♦ hemselves, through the wicle spread desolation 
 pervading the country they inhabit. It has fallen
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 151 
 
 to the unhappy lot of Americans to furnish most 
 of the information the world possesses upon this 
 suhject. The ingenious Mr. Cock has given the 
 world the narrative of the American sailor, Ro- 
 bert Adams, and the indefatigable Mr. Dupuis. 
 has, bv his notes, confirmed its accuracy. The 
 crew of the Commerce seem to have been design- 
 ed to suffer themselves, that the world, through 
 them, might learn. It is hoped this little volume 
 will add something to the little knowledge al- 
 ready obtained of the desert of Zohara, and the 
 western coast of Africa. As to that portion ot 
 the interior, situated upon the equator, and with- 
 in the Tropic of Capricorn, even conjecture it- 
 self has almost omitted to exercise its uncertain 
 and futile powers. In Soudan, are included the 
 empires of Houssa and Tombuctoo, the country erf 
 the Agadez, the kingdoms of Ludamar, Bomloiu 
 and Bambouk. also the kingdoms of B 'onion, and 
 Darfur. Nubia contains Turkish Nutria, Donga- 
 la, nnd Sennaar. North of the Zahara Desert, 
 are situated the countries of Tafilet* and Rilcd-uU 
 Gerid, lying south of the Barbery States. 
 
 The Desert^ Which comprehend so much of the 
 interior, are the Zahara or Great Western Desert. 
 This region of desolation and barrenness stretch- 
 es, by the best authorities, from 15° to 31° N. 
 Latitude, and from 70° W. to 16° E. Longitude. 
 The desert of Libya from 25° to 30° N. Latitude, 
 and from 21° to 30° E. Longitude. The desert 
 of Barca is small. 
 
 The Mountains upon this continent, are in 
 ranges. The Atlas has been celebrated from the 
 ages of antiquity to this time. According to the
 
 152 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 fabulous accounts of the ancients, it supports the 
 firmament. The inimitable Addison resorts to 
 it as the emblem of firmness. He makes his 
 Cato, like that " glory in height." These moun- 
 tains extend frotn the western coast of Africa, to 
 the Gulf of Sydra. They commence in the 28° 
 N". Latitude, and extend, in a N. E. course, to 
 34° N. Latitude ; and from thence, in an east 
 direction, to 14° E. Longitude. Although these 
 mountains are more celebrated, being more 
 known, yet the mountains of Kong, in point of 
 extent, certainly exceed them. They stretch 
 from the river Gambia, to 23° E. Longitude. The 
 Mountains of the Moon commence in 17° E. Lon- 
 gitude, and run east to 37° E. Longitude. These 
 two ranges divide almost the whole continent 
 into northern and southern divisions, and are 
 situated between the fifth and thirteenth degrees 
 of north latitude. The mountains of Lupata be- 
 gin at the mouth of the river Quilimane, upon the 
 eastern coast, and encircling the kingdom of 
 Mocaranga, extend to the country of the Hotten- 
 tots. The Chrystal Mountains are situated near 
 the kingdoms of Congo, Angola, and Benguela. 
 upon the western coast. 
 
 The Capes upon this continent are, upon ihe 
 northern coast, or the Mediterranean, Cape Bon, 
 in Tunis; and Cape Spartcl, near Tangier. Up- 
 on the western coast, or the Atlantic, are Cape 
 Geer, near Santa Cruz — Cape Bajador, upon 
 which the Commerce was wrecked — Cape Barbas 
 where the crew landed with the boat — Cape 
 Mirik — Cape Verd — Cape Mesurada — Cape Pal- 
 mas — Cape of the Three Points — Cape Formosa —
 
 ROBDINS' JOURNAL. 153 
 
 Cape Negro — Cape de Lasvoltas, and the Cape of 
 Good Hope, at the southernmost point of the con- 
 tinent. Upon the eastern coast, or Indian ocean, 
 are Capes Needle, St. Mary, Corientes, Sebastian. 
 Delgado, Baxas, and Cape Guardafui, forming the 
 easternmost point of the continent. 
 
 The Rivers of this continent, when compared 
 with those of Asia, are diminished to rivulets. 
 When the Ganges is recollected, the Nile, and 
 the Niger, are almost forgotten in the majesty 
 of the former. When compared with the Mis- 
 sissippi, Missouri, Ohio, Amazon, and La Plata, of 
 America, they then lose their consequence. The 
 Tybei , the Danube, the Seine, the Tagus, the Vis- 
 tula, the Thames, and the Don of Europe, in many 
 respects, exceed them; but still, the Nile must 
 be ranked with the great geographical and 
 classical streams. 
 
 The sources of this river have been sought af- 
 ter with an assiduity, unparalleled in the history 
 of the most romantic adventurers. It is supposed 
 to have its source in the Mountains of the Moon, 
 and is known to empty itself, through numerous 
 mouths, into the Mediterranean, near Alexandria, 
 after passing through Abyssinia and Egypt. The 
 source of the Niger is not certainly known; and 
 even the course it runs is yet a disputed point 
 among geographers. Some contend that it runs 
 eastward, and empties itself into lakes in Wan- 
 gam, in the interior of the continent. Others 
 feel confident that its course is westward, and 
 that it loses itself in the regions of Guinea. All 
 we can say is, " Who shall decide when Doctors 
 disagree ?" The Senegal has its source not far
 
 154 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 from the mountains of Kong, and it empties into 
 the Atlantic ocean in about 16° N. Latitude. 
 The Nile, the Niger, and the Senegal, annually 
 overflow their banks, dispensing fertility and 
 luxuriance to the country adjoining them. The 
 other principal streams of Africa are the Gambia, 
 Morocco, Sierra Ltona, Benin, Congo, Zv.ire, 
 Coantza, Manica, Zambezi, Coavo, Zeta, and Ma- 
 gadoxa. 
 
 The principal Islands, situated around this con- 
 tinent, have a consequence in sacred and pro- 
 fane history, almost equal to the continent itself. 
 In the Mediterranean, are the islands of Cyprus. 
 Candia, Malta, Sfciht, and Sardinia. In the At- 
 lantic are those or Madeira, the Canaries, and 
 Cape Verds. These islands are well known to 
 American navigators, and have greatly enhanc- 
 ed the wealth of American merchants. St. Louis 
 is situated at the mouth of the Senegal. In the 
 South Atlantic, above 1100 miles from the con- 
 tinent, is situated the island of St. Helena ; well 
 known to the navigators to India, and now dig- 
 nified by the residence of Napoleon. It is a small 
 island ; but the modern Charlemagne cannot be- 
 come small by bei g in a little place. The Isles 
 ofJscension and Sl Matthew are nearly the same 
 distance from the coast. Near to the coast are 
 situated Fernando Po, Princess, St. Thomas, and 
 ■flnnobon. In the Indian ocean, is the important 
 island of Madagascar, about 800 miles in length, 
 and 200 in breadth. Also the Isle of France, and 
 Bourbon, the Comoro, Islands, Zanzcba and Pom- 
 ba. Near Cape Guardafui is situated the island 
 of Socotra.
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 155 
 
 The Straits adjoining this continent are those 
 of Babel-Mandel, uniting the Red Sea with the 
 Tndian ocean, and Gibraltar, which separates this 
 continent from Europe. 
 
 The Gulfs are — the Gulf of Sydra, Goletta, Gui- 
 nea, and Sofala. The channel of Mozambique, be- 
 tween the island of Madagascar and the coast of 
 Mozambique, is the only one belonging to this 
 continent. 
 
 This chapter is introduced for the double 
 purpose of relieving the reader from the detail 
 of sufferings and minute descriptions, and giving 
 a mere bird's eye view of Africa. 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Mahomet Meaarah — Fishing — Cape Mirik — innocent deception 
 — obstinacy — Barrett — Hon. William Wiltshire — calender — 
 second tour into the desert — thanksgiving — description of a 
 camel — Mode of instruction in reading and ■writing. 
 
 November 5th, 1815. 
 MY new master Meaaratis first inquiry was, 
 if I had any clothes beside what I had on ? 
 I told him I had not, my whole wardrobe con- 
 sisting of the piece of our colors, before men- 
 tioned, and a piece of the skin of the gazelle tied 
 round my middle. I told him that Ganus had 
 taken from me that day my trowsers and my 
 shoes, the latter being worn out by travelling. 
 He said Ganus was foonta, for taking them, and 
 that he would regain them. He discovered the 
 same resentment that the purchaser of a horse 
 would, if the seller, after the sale, should slily 
 take off the halter. He recovered the shoes and
 
 156 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 gave them to me, and a piece of blanket for my 
 middle. He might, among the Arabs, be called 
 a well dressed man ; for he had a blue frock- 
 shirt hanging below his knees, and a good white 
 blanket put on as described among the Wiled 
 Lebdessebah. He seemed to be a man of more 
 than ordinary consequence among the natives ; 
 for, instead of joining them in the toil of fishing, 
 he was examining and purchasing fish. He went 
 away towards night, and left me at one of the 
 huts in the care of an old Arab by the name of 
 Abdallah, who furnished me with fish for food. 
 They were of the size of the mackerel, nearly 
 the color of our salmon trouts, of the most de- 
 licious 'flavor, and very fat. They were some- 
 times taken in considerable abundance. The 
 seine with which they were taken was made of 
 well manufactured twine, apparently of a spe- 
 cies of grass. They consisted of meshes of a 
 small size, having both a cork rope and a lead 
 rope. Through the meshes next to the cork 
 rope, they run a pole of six feet in length, gath- 
 ering up the seine from each end to the centre. 
 This seine consists of any number they choose 
 to unite together, each single one being about 
 twelve rods in length, and owned by different 
 persons. The whole seine being gathered upon 
 two poles, two carriers walk into the water up 
 to their arm-pits ; and then one goes one way 
 %nd the other another, slipping off the seine as 
 they walk. When it is drawn out at full length, 
 which is sometimes seventy-five rods, a number 
 of other men go out with threshing-poles, and 
 drive the fish into the seine as the two men n*
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 15? 
 
 the ends approach each other. They then en- 
 ter the circle made by the seine, and continue 
 to thresh the water, until they suppose they have 
 gilled all the fish. The separate owners then 
 take each their net, and the fish gilled in it, and 
 bring them ashore. They seldom catch exceed 
 ing an hundred by one drawing. The fish are 
 of different kinds, although generally of that firs* 
 mentioned. L'hoot is the name of fish with the 
 Arabs. 
 
 The bay where I was now situated is formed 
 by Cape Mink, upon the south, and by high sand- 
 hills, and a few small islands upon the north. At 
 ebb-tide, the whole bay, excepting a narrow 
 channel, which extends into it about five miles 
 from the outermost part of the Cape, running 
 near it, is entirely dry. Within the bay, are situ- 
 ated two small islands, composed wholly of 
 sand. 
 
 From the north boundary of this bay, is a 
 point of sand running into it towards Cape Mirik, 
 nearly half its width, which forms the inner bay. 
 From the termination of this point, to the Cape, 
 is about five miles. From the islands, which 
 form the mouth of the outer bay, upon the north 
 to the Cape, is about twenty miles. From Cape 
 Mirik, to the head of the bay, following the 
 shore, it is about the same distance. This Cape 
 is situated, according to the most approved 
 charts, in 19° N. Latitude and 17° W. Longi- 
 tude. I have been thus particular in describing 
 this bay, so that if any unfortunate mariner 
 should hereafter navigate die western coast of 
 Africa in distress, he might make a temporary 
 
 o
 
 158 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 harbour in the channel running within it, near 
 the Cape, which I think he might do with safety, 
 excepting in a northwest and westerly wind. 
 
 Upon the 6th, after, the usual ceremony of 
 worshipping, which was performed precisely in 
 the manner of the Wiled Lebdessebah, my master 
 askei me of what nation I was. It would have 
 been in vain to try to convince him that I came 
 from a continent three thousand miles to the 
 west, the natives upon the desert, in general, 
 having not the least idea of the existence of the 
 American continent. I therefore told him I was 
 Ingksis, which they understand. He then asked, 
 Soo-mook en tar ? what's your name ? I told him 
 Robbins. He pronounced it the same as Ganus, 
 Robbinis. He asked if Inglesis be better than 
 Fransah ? I told him they were both bono. He 
 continued to ask me if I had a father and mother, 
 brothers and sisters, wife and children. I an- 
 swered all in the affirmative, meaning to affect 
 his feelings if he had any, which cannot more 
 readily be done, than by talking of wives and 
 children. I thought the deception a very inno- 
 cent one ; nor was it altogether without effect ; 
 as he immediately said, we will go to Sweahrah ; 
 it being the same place which we call Mogadore, 
 and the place where all the ransoms are effect- 
 ed. He then left me with another man, with 
 whom 1 went out to see them fish and assist in 
 the service. They start at low water, and cross 
 over the neck or point running into the bay. to 
 the outer bay, carrying with them the fishing 
 utensils and a sufficient quantity of wood to cook 
 a meal with, and a skin of water They some-
 
 ROEBLNS' JOURNAL. 159 
 
 times return as the tide comes in, although they 
 generally continue out for two tides, lodging up- 
 on the point of land, and cooking their fish upon 
 the sand. Each one has a small net to carry 
 hence the fish that are taken. I was loaded 
 with them, and obliged to transport them as 
 much as seven miles through the deep sand, 
 sinking often to my knees. I sometimes sunk 
 down with excessive fatigue, and was compelled 
 to stop ; while the natives, possessing strength 
 almost beyond human, would bound over the 
 sand with the greatest ease. For this I >ecame 
 an object of their scorn, and sometimes of their 
 resentment. Upon returning to the tents ir huts, 
 some fish are cooked. What remain, ar e dress- 
 ed by splitting open the backs, and taking out 
 the inwards ; then gashing them cross-w^se, and 
 laying them out to dry. They rarely become 
 tainted although they are never salted. Indeed, 
 salt is scarcely ever used by Arabs in pi eser^ing 
 or cooking any thing. During the two p .-eceding 
 months, I had not used a particle of it. r H le rays 
 of the sun are so powerful, that fresh neat and 
 fresh fish are dried so suddenly that mtrefac- 
 tion is always prevented ; unless, which is more 
 generally the case, it is prevented by tne imme- 
 diate consumption of all the meat anc. fish that 
 falls in the way of the natives. At thi^ place, I 
 saw many black Africans, from which \ conclu- 
 ded we were not far from the Senegal river. 
 
 We remained at this bay 5 and at thiy employ- 
 ment, until the 9th. I began to think I was 
 about to become a slavish fisherman during life ; 
 and by affecting ignorance of every part of the
 
 160 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 duty imposed upon me, and shewing a good 
 portion of obstinacy, the natives soon found that 
 the small benefit they derived from my labour 
 cost more than it would fetch. Upon the last 
 mentioned day, as I was returning with a load of 
 fish, I discovered a number of the natives com- 
 ing towards us in the bay. We stopped, and 
 concealed our fish as well as we could. The 
 natives came to us ; and although I had aban- 
 doned all ideas of ever again seeing any of my 
 ship-mates, I recognized Barrett among them. It 
 was nearly two months since I had seen him. 
 We could hardly persuade ourselves that we 
 were actually in each others presence. — Barrett 
 had become fat, and looked as hearty as a Yan- 
 kee seaman need to. He said he had been sta- 
 tioned at a fish-place about seven miles north of 
 this place, for three weeks. He had been out 
 into the deserts with his master's brother, and 
 had been retaken, and was now returning with 
 him. He said he had learned nothing of any oi 
 the crew, excepting Mr. Williams, since he saw 
 trie upon the 14th of September. I communica- 
 ted to him the good fortune of Capt. Riley, Mr. 
 Savage, Clarke, Burns, and Horace. He said ho 
 had but little hopes of getting clear himself, al- 
 though he could not conceive why the cursed 
 creatures wanted to keep him, as he was not oi 
 the least service to them. I told him that was 
 the great grounds of my hope; and advised 
 him to follow my present example, in being as 
 useless as possible, to be ignorant and obsti- 
 nate ; and in this way, induce them to carry us 
 <o the great place of sale, and of redemption —
 
 ROBBING JOURNAL. 1G1 
 
 Mogadore. I inquired after Mr. Williams. He 
 told me he was much better than when last saw 
 him ; that his health and spirits had ;»een in a 
 considerable degree restored ; that they both 
 continued slaves to their first master, and would 
 probably remain with him. Our interview was 
 but a short one. 
 
 I have but little doubt, that Mr. Williams and 
 Barrett, if living, still remain at the same fish- 
 place. This is not a mere conjecture ; for at 
 the time of my redemption at Mogadore, sixteen 
 months after this time, the Hon. William Will- 
 shire informed me, that he had learned that 
 i wo Christian slaves were upon an island near a 
 fish-place, far to the southward, upon the west- 
 ern coast of Africa; that he had sent an express, 
 to find them, if possible, and bring them to him 
 that they might be redeemed. The name of 
 this gentleman will hereafter be mentioned in 
 this narration ; but I cannot, even here, omit to 
 express my highest admiration of his exalted 
 character. After we returned to the huts, I as- 
 sured my master that I could not sustain life in 
 the employment I was in, and he assured me 
 that I should, the next day, go off with him. 
 
 At about this time, I dispensed with the use 
 of my string by which 1 was enabled, in count- 
 ing the knots I daily tied therein, to ascertain 
 the day of the month and of my bondage ; and 
 as no possible benefit can be derived from a 
 continuation of dates, excepting that of months, 
 or general periods, I shall omit them. I had 
 not at this time, from either the Lebdessebah, or 
 
 Wiled T?Uim% learned whether they had any re- 
 02
 
 j62 ROBBINS JOURNAL. 
 
 gular manner of keeping the smaller divisions of 
 time, as hours, days, weeks or months ; but I 
 afterwards became familiar with their calendar, 
 when I became stationary at Wadinoon. The 
 Arabs, at this place, are steady residents ; as 
 they have no means of travelling, neither tents 
 nor camels, but have there erected the small 
 huts or wigwams before mentioned. They have 
 among them considerable flocks of goats from 
 which they obtain some milk, and small asses 
 with which they transport fresh water for a short 
 distance. These animals subsist upon the coarse 
 sea grass that grows within the bay, and the 
 small quantity of bushes that grow in the vicini- 
 ty of it. I never saw either ass or goat upon 
 the deserts, as they could not there subsist with- 
 out a constant supply of water. The camel, as 
 is well known, can subsist without that article 
 from twenty to thirty days, from the immense 
 quantity they receive into the chest at the wa- 
 tering places. There are, I learned, a number 
 of these fish-places upon the coast from Cape 
 Mirik to Cape Blanco, which are all occupied 
 as the one just described by stationary Arabs. 
 The wandering Arabs are constantly resorting 
 to them for supplies offish, and at the same pla- 
 ces can furnish themselves with water. 
 
 Having remained at this fish-place for five 
 days, my master Meaarah took me off with him 
 to traverse once more the desert of Zahara. He 
 commenced by travelling in a southeast direc- 
 tion, and upon the first night readied his own 
 tent. We had a very fleet camel, and having 
 started at day-light, and riding tifl dark without
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 163 
 
 dismounting, we must have travelled at least 
 sixty miles. Upon reaching the tent, I found 
 that of my master and those situated near it 
 were much larger and better than I had ever 
 before seen. My master's return was welcomed 
 by every demonstration of joy. This was in- 
 creased by seeing a quantity offish, and carried 
 to the highest pitch when they found me there 
 as a slave. The whole family seemed anxious 
 to make my situation as comfortable as possible ; 
 some offered me fish ; some milk, and some wa- 
 ter; and the joy of the party was so excessive, 
 that they seemed to " take no thought for the 
 morrow," having devoured almost every eatable 
 thing in their possession. Witnessing the ani- 
 mation and enjoyment of this family of barbari 
 ans, my mind was immediately transported to 
 the regions of civilization. It was about the 
 season of a Connecticut Thanksgiving. In imagi- 
 nation, I saw the festive board surrounded by 
 my refined, grateful and happy friends. I could 
 see the eyes of parents, beaming with benignity 
 upon their visiting children, blessing heaven for 
 the gift of them, as well as for the luxuries that 
 loaded their hospitable board, rendering thankb 
 that they had been blessed " in their basket and 
 in their store," and that they had been preserv- 
 ed once more to form the happy family. My 
 heart was near burs' ing at this recollection. Al- 
 though I was not destitute of gratitude for an un- 
 expected supply, 1 was compelled to reflect that 
 all my enjoyments depended upon the capricious 
 whims of an Arab, and that a transition from en- 
 joyment to the lowest wretchedness might befal
 
 ,64 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 me in the next twenty-four hours. Well might I 
 
 exclaim, " hard, hard is my fate." 
 
 Upon the next morning, I found my master's 
 family consisted of his wife, Fatima ; one son, 
 Adulhth ; one daughter, named Tilah; and an- 
 other, Murmooah ; his brother, about twenty, 
 Mid-Mohamote. Another small tent was occu- 
 pied by F&timafs mother, also named Fatima, and 
 her brother, named Ilia-Mecca. They also had 
 a teacher in the family supported by Meaarah. 
 wholly without labour, excepting the labour of 
 teaching the family. His name was Mahomet. 
 They also had a black female slave, of the Gui- 
 nea tribe. My master was possessed of sixty- 
 eight camels ; some of which were of the most 
 superior kind. Six of them gave milk, furnish- 
 ing a tolerable supply for the family. As is al- 
 ways the case with a Christian slave, my portion 
 was less than that of a member of the family. 
 
 Although in many different publications, the 
 camel is minutely described, so important an 
 animal must not be passed over without a brief 
 description here. The natives, as a general 
 name, call camels LiUahilts : the male, Izhmacl : 
 the female, Naig. The male camel of the lar- 
 gerkind is from twenty to twenty-five hands high. 
 He measures from the nose, to the root of the 
 tail, about eleven feet. The body is deepest 
 from the shoulder to the brisket, and, unless re- 
 cently filled with water, will girth the most just 
 back of the fore legs. This admeasurement is 
 not meant to include the hump, that being a 
 kind of excrescence rising eight or ten inches 
 above the back bone. The body gradually di-
 
 R0BB1NS' JOURNAL. 16£ 
 
 minislies in size until it comes to the loins, which 
 are very smafl for so large an animal. The neck 
 is very low upon the breast, growing out between 
 the shoulder blades; it then descends a little, 
 then rises almost perpendicularly, being from 
 the lower part of the bow of the neck, to the top 
 of the head, about five feet. The head is car- 
 ried horizontally ; the nose, top of the head, 
 and hump, making a direct line. The eyes arc 
 very prominent, and so placed upon the side of 
 the head as to discern objects in every direction. 
 They have a peculiar mildness, and indicate 
 great sagacity for an animal. The ear is very 
 small, and stands nearly erect. The limbs are 
 straight and smooth, but have large strong joints. 
 The hoof is the greatest curiosity in this animal. 
 It is soft and yields to the slightest pressure, 
 having a very small split in the fore part of it, 
 the points of which are of a harder substance. 
 It has before been mentioned that these feet or 
 hoofs are remarkably calculated to travel in 
 deep sand and upon the hardest stones. The 
 tail is smooth and short, and is carried between 
 the legs. The hair of the camel, excepting 
 what grows upon the hump and neck, is fine, 
 short, and smooth, having a very handsome ap- 
 pearance. That upon the hump and neck is 
 coarser and curly, and from six to eight inches 
 in length. This long hair is sheared off annual- 
 ly, and with it the natives make tent-cloth and 
 coarse clothing. Their colour is from white to 
 a reddish brown. He is an animal of the great- 
 est docility ; lies down and rises at the com- 
 mand of his master: at the same command
 
 166 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 slackens or hastens his pace. When alive, he 
 transports his master, his baggage, his food, 
 drink, and slaves, from one part of fhe desert to 
 another; when dead, every particle of him fur- 
 nishes food, excepting his bones, and his hide 
 furnishes leather for almost every purpose. In- 
 deed, it is melancholy to reflect that such a no- 
 ble animal should subserve the purposes of the 
 most debased of men. 
 
 In the morning, after reaching the tent of my 
 master, the camels were distributed around in 
 the adjoining country, and were generally in the 
 keeping of Ilia Mecca. The country had about 
 the same appearance as those parts of the de- 
 sert so often mentioned ; small sand hills and 
 shallow vallies. The bushes were \ery small 
 and thinly scattered, and it required a conside- 
 rable extent of it to recruit the camels. We re- 
 mained stationary at this place for six days. 
 During this time my master seemed generally 
 inclined to remain in, or near his tent. At about 
 sun-rise, the Mahometan service was invariably 
 performed by the whole family. I was urgently 
 invited to join in the service, but, adhering to my 
 previous resolution, I always declined it, think- 
 ing it sacrilege to offer up worship to a prophet 
 whose followers shew so little of humanity in 
 their practice. The teacher generally took the 
 lead, in this service ; their teachers being gene- 
 rally of the Mahometan priesthood. He had a 
 number of very old volumes into which I often 
 looked, but the letters and characters were as 
 unintelligible to me as the hand-writing upon 
 l he wall was to Belshazzar. When he began to
 
 ROBBLYS* JOURNAL. 167 
 
 read, it was at what I should call the end of the 
 volume, reading from right to left. 
 
 The mode of instructing the children in read- 
 ing, is by writing with a reed a few characters 
 upon a smooth, white board, about the size of a 
 cyphering slate. He then, with an audible 
 voice, pronounces them, and calls upon the child 
 to do the same. In this manner the child is 
 taught their alphabet. He then writes out 
 words ; spelling them, and the children follow 
 his example. From this lie proceeds to write 
 sentences, and teaches the children to read 
 them. After they have progressed thus far, the 
 whole of the children, under instruction, are fur- 
 nished each with a board, and read together 
 aloud, keeping very exact time. The teacher 
 corrects them when in an error, and administers 
 punishment when obstinate. These sentences 
 they are taught to commit to memory, and to re- 
 peat without the assistance of the board. Ma- 
 ny of the sentences, although I could not well 
 understand the language, were the same as I of- 
 ten heard repeated over in their religious cere- 
 monies. From the antiquated appearance of the 
 volume from which they were taken ; from the 
 same being used in worship, and from the pecu- 
 liar solemnity of the teacher and the pupil. 
 while repeating them, but little doubt can exist 
 but that they were taken from the Koran in the 
 original tongue. This is the universal method 
 of teaching children, when they are taught at 
 all, upon the desert, and at the large schools at 
 Wad i no on. 
 
 Writing is taught by drawing upon the board
 
 168 ROBBING JOURNAJL. 
 
 a few single characters. The pen is made with 
 a piece of flat reed, hollowed upon the inside 
 to contain the ink, and sharpened to a single 
 point. The child is taught to imitate the cha- 
 racters set as a copy. Children at twelve, who 
 have been taught regularly, can read and write 
 with considerable facility. When at rest, the 
 hours of instruction are three hours very early 
 in the morning, and three toward night. When 
 upon a journey, the lesson given must be learn- 
 ed either before or after the day's journey, the 
 teacher being extremely strict ; although the 
 children seem to consider their task as a plea- 
 sure rather than a burthen. This was the first 
 instruction I ever saw given among the Arabs. 
 During my slavery with the Lebdessebah, I never 
 saw even a book, and never witnessed the least 
 attempt among them to impart instruction. Nor 
 did I while with the Wiled D'lcim, ever see but 
 one instructer besides this one in MeaaraK's 
 family. 
 
 My master, during the time we were station- 
 ary, frequently endeavoured to initiate me into 
 the mysteries of tending camels. As I have 
 mentioned before, I found it best to perform the 
 common and ordinary duties of a slave with ap- 
 parent cheerfulness and alacrity ; but, as I did 
 at the fish-place, I was determined to resist any 
 attempt to make me a camel tender, or to im- 
 pose upon me any steady duty in the perform- 
 ance of which I might raise my value in their es- 
 timation, as this would probably lengthen my 
 slavery ; and in the same proportion as I be- 
 came useless to them, would be their desire to
 
 nOBMNfl' JOURNAL. 169 
 
 get rid of me, and increase the chances of my 
 redemption. I however went out with my ma? 
 ter one day, and he tried to instruct me how to 
 assist Illa-Mccca in camel keeping. Although if 
 was nothing but standing on elevated ground, 
 keeping sight of the beasts, and driving them 
 back when straying off, yet I convinced my roas- 
 ter that I could not possibly learn the duty, and 
 would not perform it. He did not, at this time- 
 attempt again to impose it upon me. 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 A long journey—Porter — locusts, mode of catching, cooking, 
 and eating them — narrow escape — Mahommedan teacher- 
 blacksmith upon the desert — salt-bed— debility approaching to 
 death. 
 
 AFTER the expiration of six days, we started 
 upon a journey, and continued generally to tra- 
 vel, upon an average, forty miles a day. This 
 we continued to do for eight days. It is impos 
 sible to describe the different courses we tra- 
 velled, as they were constantly shifting ; but the 
 general course led us easterly into the interior. 
 To describe that portion of the Zahara desert 
 over which we passed would be but a repetition, 
 of what was said when travelling with the Wiled 
 Lebdessebah. For some distance the country 
 vrould have gentle hills and shallow vallies, in 
 termixed with sand and stones; and then it 
 would present to you a plain, apparently with- 
 out limits, terminated on every part by the hori 
 zon. We subsisted, during this time, upon ca- 
 mel's milk and water, added to a few snaite 
 P
 
 |70 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 found upon the passage. We were frequently 
 met by tents, and large droves of camels ; and 
 almost every passenger of respectable appear- 
 ance paid attention to my master Meaarah and 
 mistress Fatima. She received many visits, and 
 was particularly attentive to her guests. She, 
 and indeed all the females belonging <o this fa- 
 mily, were elegantly dressed in the Arab style ; 
 having a redundancy of the most beautiful shells 
 suspended from their braided hair, which was 
 always covered with a blue turban. Their blan- 
 kets were of a superior kind. 
 
 Upon the eighth day of travelling, we came to 
 an immense country of sand. At night a camel 
 was slaughtered in the same manner as before 
 described ; some part of it was sliced thinly and 
 dried, and lasted for two or three days. Our 
 course was now shifted a little to the northward, 
 still carrying us into the interior. After travel- 
 ling for four days we came to a small valley or 
 basin, into which considerable water had set- 
 tled from a recent rain. Our tent was pitched 
 upon the rising ground, overlooking it. A great 
 number of tents were situated in the valley, 
 some belonging to the Wiled Lebdessebah, and 
 some to the Wiled D'leim, these two tribes, at 
 this time, being at peace with each other. Among 
 them was Porter's master, and Porter himself. 
 He had regained his health, and, like me, enter- 
 tained some hopes that we might escape from 
 bondage. He asked me the season of the year, 
 having entirely forgotten it. I told him it was 
 the last of November. In and about this valley 
 were great flights of locusts. During the day-
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 171 
 
 time, they are flying around very thick in the at- 
 mosphere, but the copious dews and chilly air, 
 in the night season, render them unable to fly, 
 and they settle down upon the bushes. It was 
 the constant employ of the natives in the night 
 season to gather these insects from the bushes, 
 which they did in great quantities. My master's 
 family, each with a small bag, went out the first 
 night upon this employ, carrying a very large 
 bag to bring home the fruits of their labour. My 
 mistress Fatima, however, and the two little 
 children remained in the tent. I declined this 
 emj)loy, and retired to rest under the large tent. 
 The, next day, the family returned loaded with 
 locusts, and judging from the quantity produced 
 by the eye, there must have been as many as 
 fifteen bushels. This may appear to be a large 
 quantity to be gathered in so short a time*; but 
 it is hardly worth mentioning when compared 
 with the loads of then gathered sometimes in 
 the more fertile part of the country, over which 
 they pass, leaving a track of desolation behind 
 them. But as they were the first, in any consi- 
 derable quantity, that I had seen, and the first I 
 had seen cooked and eaten, I mention it in this 
 place ; hoping hereafter to give my readers 
 more particular information concerning these 
 wonderful and destructive insects ; which, from 
 the days of Moses to this time, have been con- 
 sidered by Jews and Mahometans as the most 
 severe judgment which heaven can inflict upon 
 man. But whatever the Egyptians might have 
 thought in ancient days, or the Moors and Arabs 
 in those of modern date, the Arabs who are com-
 
 172 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 pelled to inhabit the desert of Zahara, so far 
 from considering a flight of locusts as a judg- 
 ment upon them for their transgressions, wel- 
 come their approach as the means, sometimes, of 
 saving them from famishing with hunger. The 
 whole that were brought to the tent at this time 
 were cooked when alive, as indeed they always 
 are, for a dead locust is never cooked. The 
 manner of cooking is, by digging a deep hole in 
 the ground, building a fire at the bottom, as be- 
 fore described, and filling it with wood. After 
 it is heated as hot as is possible, the coals and 
 embers are taken out, and they prepare to fill 
 the cavity with the locusts, confined in a large 
 bag. A sufficient number of natives hold the bag 
 perpendicularly over the hole, the mouth of it 
 being near the surface of the ground. A number 
 stand- around the hole with sticks. The mouth 
 of the bag is then opened, and it is shaken with 
 great force, the locusts falling into the hot pit. 
 and the surrounding natives throwing sand up- 
 on them ( to prevent them from flying off. The 
 mouth of the hole is then covered with sand, and 
 another fire built upon the top of it. In this 
 manner they cook all they have on hand, and 
 dig a number of. holes sufficient to accomplish it. 
 each containing about five bushels. They re- 
 main in the hole until they become sufficient^ 
 cooled to take out by the hand. They are then 
 picked out, and :hrown upon tent-cloths, or 
 blankets, and remain in the sun to dry, where 
 they must be watched with the utmost care, to 
 prevent the live locusts from devouring them, it 
 a flight happen to be passing at the time. When
 
 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 173 
 
 they are perfectly dried, which is not done short 
 of two or three days, they are slightly pounded 
 and pressed into bags or skins, ready for trans- 
 portation. To prepare them to eat, they are 
 pulverized in mortars, and mixed with water 
 sufficient to make a kind of dry pudding. They 
 are, however, sometimes eaten singly without 
 pulverizing, by breaking off the head, wings, 
 and legs, and swallowing the remaining part. 
 In whatever manner they are eaten, they are 
 nourishing food. All the while we remained at 
 this valley, the natives were employed in gather- 
 ing and cooking locusts. I cannot omit an inci- 
 dent at this valley, which came nigh to ending 
 my slavery and my existence. 1 was command- 
 ed to sling a large water goat skin upon my 
 back, and carry it to the tent. Upon letting it 
 down when 1 arrived, my fatigue, and its great 
 weight, occasioned it to fall and burst open. My 
 master, with savage ferocity, ran toward me with 
 an uplifted Arab axe, and, aiming at my head, 
 would, without the least doubt, have severed it 
 from my body, had not my mistress Fatima, leap- 
 ed between him and me. and warded off the in- 
 tended blow. From this time my master, who 
 had before shewn some tokc img, began 
 
 to exercise toward me a systematic cruelty. 
 
 We remained at this valley until the water in 
 it was dried up, and then ma<i e preparations for 
 departure. I often saw Porter, while there, and 
 left him there when I was taken off We travel- 
 led to the northwest from day to day. I began 
 to grow weak, and my flesh wasted away. I had 
 nothing to eat but fresh locusts, there being no 
 
 P2
 
 i/4 R0BB1NS' JOURNAL. 
 
 rsalt with the family. The blanket around my 
 middle, hanging down as low as my knees, wore 
 ihe flesh entirely off from the cords of my legs, 
 leaving them entirely bare. This was occasioned 
 by constant travelling. After sleeping upon the 
 sand, a few hours, and rising upon my legs, the 
 blood gushed out of my excoriated and dried 
 flesh. My master viewed this with the indiffer- 
 ence of a savage, when witnessing the contor 
 lions of his victim. After travelling with great 
 rapidity for ten days in this manner, we arrived 
 upon the coast, after passing the dried bed of a 
 considerable river. This, from a careful exami- 
 nation of the best charts, I feel confident was the 
 river St. Cyprian, near which we first landed in 
 the boat. What confirmed this opinion was, the 
 coast, in its general appearance, was very simi- 
 lar to that upon which we landed. 
 
 The time of our arrival there must have been 
 about the 10th of December. Here our tent was 
 pitched for the first time, since we left the valley 
 of locusts. We remained here but one night, ha- 
 ving obtained a supply of water. We then tra- 
 velled two days, in a northeast direction, and 
 pitched our teats. The country was of the 
 same general description, as the other parts oi 
 the desert. We remained here six days. The 
 teacher, during the whole time I had been a slave 
 10 the cruel Meaarah, assiduously continued his 
 instruction, and maintained his dignity with the 
 whole family. Even my master stood in awe 
 before him. He often, in the most urgent man- 
 ner, pressed upon me the necessity of renounc- 
 ing the heresy of Christianity, and becoming a
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 175 
 
 good Mussulman. He manifested the most 
 sovereign contempt for the Christian religion, 
 and often denounced me as a kellup en-sahrau. He 
 expressed the utmost horror at the idea of eat- 
 ing pork ; considering a hog as possessed of the 
 devil, and those who eat it, as possessed of him 
 also. He laid every inducement before me to 
 espouse his faith ; promising me the possession 
 of wealth, and power, and wives upon earth, and 
 eternal felicity and sensual enjoyment in para- 
 dise with the divine prophet MahommecL 
 
 While here, I saw, for the first time, an Arab 
 blacksmith. He has his anvil carried upon the 
 camel. It is about four inches in diameter upon 
 the top, tapering down to a point. This he puts 
 into a piece of a block, the largest he can find 
 upon the deserts, where nothing but small tim- 
 ber grows. His fire is built in a shallow hole, 
 dug in the ground, into which he puts his coal. 
 His bellows is made of a goat-skin, with a han- 
 dle fixed to the top of it. As he pulls the handle 
 up, the air enters it; as he forces it down, the 
 air is pressed out at the point of it into the 
 coals, which blows them up to a fire. He then 
 puts in his iron, which is soon heated. He then, 
 with a clumsy sort of hammer, draws out the 
 piece of iron in his hand, to any shape which is 
 necessary. With this, he makes irons for a sad- 
 dle, an axe, or any other iron tool which the 
 Arabs wish to make use of; the whole being 
 made in the most bungling manner. In this way. 
 he makes the needles with which the natives sew 
 their tent cloths together, and do all the neces- 
 sary sewing in the family, unless, by accident.
 
 176 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 they can procure needles better manufactured. 
 They make their coal by digging a hole in the 
 ground, and throwing into it the largest wood 
 they can find. This is burned into charcoal. 
 
 The locust food was nearly exhausted. The 
 water grew short, and the camels gave but little 
 milk ; and I hardly had a sufficiency of suste- 
 nance to support life. My debility and weak- 
 ness was such, as almost to deprive me of the 
 power of walking about. Upon the last day my 
 master remained at this place, I wandered slow 
 ly off to a neighbouring tent, where I was sup- 
 plied with some water. The owner of the tent 
 was an old and rich Arab, having a tent abun- 
 dantly furnished. He shewed me pieces of mo- 
 ney of silver and gold, and asked me my opinion 
 of their value. Among them were doubloons. 
 I told him one doubloon was worth sixteen of the 
 dollars which he shewed me. He told me they 
 were taken out of a sfeaah (a vessel) upon the 
 coast. As some of the money was in doubloons, 
 and as we had no such money aboard the Com- 
 merce, I concluded some other American or 
 European vessel might have been lately wreck- 
 ed upon the coast. 
 
 Upon the next morning our tents were struck, 
 and preparations were made for a journey. I 
 knew not how I could endure it ; but I was com- 
 pelled to travel, and run the risk of dying with 
 fatigue, or remain and perish with hunger. We 
 travelled in an eastern direction ; and upon the 
 first day's journey we passed a small deep val- 
 ley, situated upon our right. The bottom of it 
 was filled with water ; but as my master told me
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 177 
 
 it was salt, I did not attempt to drink it. Upon 
 the borders of the basin that contained the wa- 
 ter, was lying, in great quantities, very clear and 
 white salt. It excited my astonishment, as we 
 were, at least, one hundred miles from the sea. 
 If a conjecture might be ventured, there must 
 have been a subterranean passage from the sea 
 to this valley ; and as the water, winch some- 
 times filled it, dried away, it was converted into 
 salt. I have been cautious, thus far, in making 
 conjectures of my own, or repeating the st 
 of others; — and shall continue to exercise that 
 caution, determining to relate nothing but what 
 has evidence sufficient to induce a belief in its 
 probability, if not in its certainty. In the even- 
 ing of the first day's journey, Meaarah slaugh- 
 tered a camel. My weakness increased ; and 
 travelling rapidly and sleeping in the open air 
 without any covering, occasioned the most ex- 
 treme distress. From recollecting the number 
 of days we were upon different journeys, and al- 
 so the number upon which we rested, this musi 
 have been the latter part of December, the cold 
 having increased to a considerable degree. The 
 next day we bore more to the northward, travel- 
 ling moderately, until late in the evening. When 
 we stopped, fuel was necessary to cook with, 
 but no dry bushes could be readily found. Af- 
 ter seeking some time for them, I returned to the 
 tent, destitute of them, and almost wholly ex- 
 hausted with fatigue. Meaarah came at me fu- 
 riously with a knife, pointing it toward my throat. 
 I fled out again and procured a few dry sticks. 
 was compelled again to sleep in the cold air
 
 178 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 without the least shelter or covering. Upon the 
 next day, I travelled till about noon, and drop- 
 
 Fed down upon the ground, and was left alone, 
 gazed round, but from dimness and dizziness, 
 could see neither tent, camel, nor human being. 
 I attempted to walk, but was wholly unable to 
 move. My master at length came and led me 
 to the tent, which was pitched. Some warm 
 milk was given to me, into which was put a con- 
 siderable quantity of dried weed, which the na- 
 tives generally carry about with them; although 
 it may be gathered in almost every part of the 
 desert. It gave to the milk a sharp bitter taste, 
 and relieved me from the costiveness with which 
 I had been much troubled from eating hard boil- 
 ed blood, and baked locusts. At night I was 
 permitted to have a small piece of tent-cloth for 
 a covering. The herb given to me operated as 
 a cathartic. The next day I was placed upon a 
 camel, with a rolled tent cloth upon one side, 
 and a watering tub upon the other, to keep me 
 from falling off! In this manner I continued to 
 travel with the family seven days, during which 
 time I was not allowed to eat meat of any kind, 
 but was supplied with milk warm from the ca- 
 mel. As there was a good supply of camel's 
 meat, I conclude, the reason why it was refused 
 to me was on account of my health, being alrea- 
 dy unfit for market from the leanness of my bo- 
 dy. I, however, found an opportunity to roast a 
 small piece of raw hide rope, and eat it. For 
 these seven days we travelled asoutheast course; 
 at the end of which we came to a low piece oi 
 marshy ground, which had upon it bushes and
 
 BOBBINS' JOURNAL- 179 
 
 staddles of considerable size, and also standing 
 water. The tents were pitched, and in the vi 
 cinity were situated about forty other tents. 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Medical practice — Hogan and Dick — sale of Porter — happiness 
 in Zahara — author regains his health — is sold to Hamet Web- 
 ber, an Arab merchant of the Wiled El Kabla — African and 
 European merchandise — an expected battle — gunnery — fe- 
 males of the El Kabla tribe. 
 
 January, 1816. 
 IT was now from my best calculation, the first 
 week in January. The tents remained station- 
 ary for four days, upon the first of which, a ca- 
 mel was slain; with the fat part of which Meaa- 
 rah procured a small skin full of dates, the first 
 I had seen. These the Arabs call T'murr. They 
 are a sweet nourishing food, and the few allow- 
 ed me tasted deliciously. I was now literally 
 reduced to a skeleton. The irritation of the 
 blanket around my middle, and sleeping upon 
 sand and hard ground, had worn the skin entire- 
 ly off my hip-bones, leaving them visible; indeed, 
 this was the case with all the prominent bones 
 in my body. I was completely dried up ; and 
 the skin was contracted and drawn tight around 
 my bones. Although I had seen many human 
 beings reduced to bones and sinews before, I 
 certainly never saw one so poor as I was myself. 
 I was in no danger of inflammatory diseases, as 
 there was nothing about me to be inflamed, un- 
 less a conflagration should have been made of 
 my dried carcass; and this I was in danger of
 
 180 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 from the mode of practice adopted by the Ish- 
 maelitish faculty. They heated the blade of a 
 long tent-knife — stripped me bare — held me in 
 a perpendicular posture — and, with the edge 
 of the hot knife began to strike gently upon my 
 shin-bones, and continued to chop the whole of 
 the front part of my frame. I felt not the least 
 pain from this operation ; indeed I was no more 
 a subject of pain than an actual skeleton in the 
 office of a surgeon. They repeated this opera- 
 tion daily, and began to afford me a little meat. 
 In the course of three or four days, I became 
 able to move slowly about — the blood began to 
 circulate, and strength began to return. This was 
 the mode of practice, and this was the result of 
 it. Whether it was Galvanism or Perkinism, I 
 leave to the Italian and American faculty to de- 
 termine. 
 
 At the end of four days, the tents were struck, 
 and a journey commenced toward the northward. 
 Upon the first day, we passed a hill upon our 
 right, upon the shelviag rocks of which, was 
 trickling down salt water, leaving particles of 
 salt upon the rocks. We were descending into 
 a very long and deep valley, where the tents 
 were pitched as we halted. The rainy season 
 had commenced ; and the wandering Arabs, of 
 various tribes, were bending to the northward 
 and eastward, in numerous parties. The valley 
 looked like a city of tents ; there being, at least, 
 three hundred situated in it. Toward night, 
 JWeaarah told me I should see Joe ; and I soon 
 after, once more, beheld my ship-mate in mis- 
 fortune. Porter had, a few days before, been
 
 ROBBINS 1 JOURNAL. 181 
 
 sold to a trading Arab, and said he had the?, 
 hopes o r going to Swearah, (Mogadore) where 
 his ransom would be certain. He said, he, a few 
 days before, had seen Hogan and Dick ; that 
 ihcy had also been sold to a trading Arab — that 
 Dick was worn out and left, probably to perish, 
 and that Hogan and his master went off* in a 
 southeast direction. This large valley ran near- 
 ly east and west, about half a mile in width? 
 bounded upon each side by high ranges of hills. 
 We continued in it for six days, moving mode- 
 rately through it to the east, in company with 
 two or three hundred terrts. Among these were 
 a number of trading Arabs, from Lower Suse, ha- 
 ving blankets, tobacco, dates, powder, blue cot- 
 tons, &c. One came to my master's tents, and 
 examined me with a view of purchasing ; but 
 said I was too poor — that I should not live to 
 reach Sweara/i. I begged of him to buy me; but 
 he declined. Meaarah told me to walk about 
 and be active, or I never should be sold. I would! 
 gladly had I been able, have done this, or any 
 thing else to induce a sale. At the end of six 
 days, we reached the east end of this wonderful 
 valley, which then branched into two smaller 
 ones. It was altogether the most fertile part of 
 Africa that I had yet seen. It had, for the whole 
 length, green grass, and bushes in abundance. 
 Long hills of rocks and sand limited it upon each 
 side. As I was passing through it, I thought it 
 the most striking prospect I bad ever seen. 
 There must have been travelling through it, and 
 at no great distance from our tent, as many ap 
 twelve hundred natives. As we passed gently 
 Q
 
 182 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 along, the natives were constantly chanting a 
 kind of harmonious song, cheering up Ihe load- 
 ed camels like the perpetual jingling of bells. 
 The camels had a supply of food from the grass 
 and the bushes ; and the natives also were fur- 
 nished with their meat and their milk. The lit- 
 tle streamlets from the hills supplied them with 
 water. The different families and parties inter- 
 changed civilities peculiar to themselves. They 
 had a fruition of present enjoyments, and expec- 
 tations of a future supply. They worshipped, in 
 large parties, four times a day. Their tents were 
 pitched with cheerfulness at night, and with 
 cheerfulness were struck in the morning. I could 
 not see how this life could afford more happiness 
 than they apparently enjoyed. But /was a slave! ! 
 subject to their capricious whims, and barbarous 
 cruelty. 1 was a kcllup en-sahrau — and to slay me. 
 might be thought as offering an acceptable sacri- 
 fice to Mahommcd. Porter was also in the par- 
 ty. He and I were the only beings present, that 
 ever enjoyed the blessings and freedom of civi- 
 lization. Every appearance evinced the fact 
 that this valley, irrthe midst of the rainy season, 
 is filled to a considerable height with water. 
 
 After leaving this extraordinary valley, or ra- 
 ther ravine, we continued to travel in an eastern 
 course for four days, through a level and sandy 
 country, passii g a small stream of fresh water, 
 with which the skins were filleil. 1 gained strength 
 daily, and began to do the sen ic r> of a slave, al- 
 though yet verv feeble. Upon the fourth dav, 1 
 
 f TIT I 1 
 
 was sold to a trading Arab. Mcaarah took me 
 off to a neighbouring tent, near which I saw a 
 quantity of goods. One of the traders asked me
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. i83 
 
 of what nation I was? I answered, as before in- 
 structed by Meaarah, Fransah. After a little con- 
 versation, I was delivered to him as a slave. I 
 understood the price for me was five camels and 
 two blankets. 
 
 My third masters name was Hcmet Webber, of 
 the tribe of Wiled El Kahla, a trading Arab. His 
 articles of traffic were blankets, tobacco, and 
 powder. Hamct had a trading Arab as a part- 
 ner; and they and I constituted the family. 
 They had here no tent, but received their food, 
 once a day, from an adjoining one. They were 
 not permitted to lodge in the tent. Indeed, it 
 was an universal custom among all the tribes, I 
 had yet seen, never to admit any one to lodge in 
 a tent, but members of the family. This custom 
 arises from the suspicion they entertain toward 
 each other ; thieving being a vice to which they 
 are all addicted. I was here supplied with a 
 species of food I had never before seen. It was 
 a thick boiled pudding, called Lakh, furnished 
 each night at about 11 o'clock. The next day. 
 Twcnt off with Harriet, and his partner, who had 
 two camel?, upon which the goods were loaded. 
 We travelled but a short distance ; the goods 
 were unloaded, and the camels, under my care, 
 were put out to feed. I fell in with Porter, who 
 was also keeping the camels of his master. Du- 
 ring the next day, Hamet was engaged in gath- 
 ering in the camels, for which he had bartered 
 away his goods. The third day of my slavery 
 with my new master, we started upon a journey 
 with twenty-five camels, and one black slave, 
 travelling to the eastward. Three other natives, 
 with fifteen camels, joined us, making five Arabs
 
 184 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 two slaves, and fifty camels. At night a camei 
 ivas killed and cooked. From the next morning, 
 for eight days, we travelled in an easterly course, 
 at about twenty miles a day. Upon the journey. 
 we lived as well as men could upon camel's 
 meat and milk. Hamet was very kind to rne. 
 supplied me with some additional clothing, and 
 allowed me a sufficiency of food. My health im- 
 proved and my flesh increased. At the end of 
 the eight days, we halted ; and Hamet went for- 
 ward in pursuit of his tent, not having seen one 
 since we started. We remained here two days: 
 at the end of which orders were sent to change 
 our course to the northward. At the end of the 
 first day's travel, we reached the tents belonging 
 to the tribe of the Wiled El Kabla. There had 
 been slight falls of rain for the ten days past. 
 This tribe, in every respect, was the most weal- 
 thy I had yet seen. They had great numbers of 
 camels, some goats, sheep and horses ; besides 
 considerable quantities of African and European 
 merchandise. The European goods must have 
 been taken from the English brig Surprise, which 
 I learned, upon arriving at Wadinoon, was wreck- 
 ed to the southward of that place, about the 1st 
 of January, 1816. We remained at this place. 
 and in the vicinity of it, for thirty days. My mas- 
 ter was generally employed in trading among flic 
 natives, situated in the adjoining country. Their 1 
 were great numbers of tents, and the country was 
 well calculated for keeping camels. They gave 
 milk in abundance, and I had a full supply. It 
 was the season when the camels foal their young, 
 and my chief employ was to attend them. Be- 
 ing at rest, and well supplied with lillabent,
 
 ROBBING JOURiNAL. 185 
 
 (milk) 1 regained my flesh rapidly. The tents 
 of the tribe to which I belonged were situated 
 near the base of a considerable hill, which I of- 
 ten ascended to pick a sort of green vegetable, 
 totally different from any plant which I had ever 
 seen. It grew out of the earth from three inch- 
 es to a foot high in a square shape, without the 
 least leaf attached to it. It was always green, 
 and had a short beard or roughness upon its four 
 corners. It had a very palatable acid in its 
 taste, and the natives had the greatest fondness 
 for it. 
 
 The mode of worship in this tribe, wa9 pre- 
 cisely the same as that among the Wiled Lebdes- 
 sebcth, and Wiled D'lcim ; and always performed 
 with great devotion, four times each day. I was 
 by this tribe, as by the two others, urged most 
 vehemently to espouse the Mahonmudan faitli ; 
 but, as I always had before, I positively refused 
 a compliance, and do not know that I suffered 
 any additional cruelty from this refusal. The 
 tribe of Wiled El Kabla were much better arm- 
 ed, than either of the others to which I had be- 
 longed ; having many valuable double-barrelled 
 muskets, and many single-barrelled Moorish 
 muskets. They were more warlike as a tribe, 
 and less cruel as individuals, than nny Arabs 1 
 had seen. After remaining at this place a num- 
 ber of days, great alarm and consternation was 
 excited, in this tribe, by the approach, from the 
 southeast, of a large armed caravan. Our ca- 
 mels were all upon the opposite side of the hill, 
 feeding, and it was supposed that this armed 
 body of men were coming with a view of captu-
 
 (86 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 ring them. An universal alarm was immediately 
 spread throughout the whole encampment of 
 tents, stretching five or six miles upon the west 
 side of the hill. There must have been as ma- 
 ny as six hundred tents, and three thousand na- 
 tives. They had no warlike instrument with 
 which they could sound an alarm ; but this was 
 well supplied by the hooting and screaming of 
 the female Arabs. The echo of this universal 
 hooting, over the hills, was to me, the most won- 
 derful operation of sound. The Arab men, in 
 rhe mean time, were sounding dreadful " notes 
 of preparation." The muskets, spears, scimitars, 
 knives, and clubs, were all in readiness. They 
 rushed, without the least order or command, to 
 the top of the hill, ascending rocks to get a sight 
 of the enemy, or concealing themselves behind 
 them for safety. I supposed, and even hoped, I 
 should see an engagement in which these Ishma- 
 elites, who prey upon all the rest of the world, 
 would make havoc of each other: and I ascend- 
 ed the hill. I was disappointed ; for immediate- 
 ly the universal shout of Labez (all's well) echoed 
 along the hills. Some of our tribe went down to 
 the caravan, and I soon witnessed tokens of 
 peace. Upon returning to the tents, I found the 
 female jaws as nearly closed as nature would 
 permit them to be, and tranquillity was restored. 
 This tribe is remarkable for its skill in gunne- 
 ry. Shooting was a common, and indeed the 
 only amusement among the male Arabs. To 
 manifest their skill, they place a small stone up- 
 on the top of a bush. They stand about eight 
 or ten rods from the mark, and fire at arm's 
 length. They certainly exceed Americans in
 
 R0BB1NS' JOURNAL. 187 
 
 this exercise. I very often saw them, at the first 
 shot, and at a number in succession, knock off a 
 stone with a single ball. I was sometimes a spec- 
 tator; and the Arabs undoubtedly concluded 
 that as I was a Christian, I was totally ignorant 
 of firing. As I was one day witnessing their 
 astonishing skill, Hamet, and many others, insist- 
 ed upon my making a shot. They permitted 
 me to select my musket, thinking I could not 
 distinguish between one that was bono or foonta. 
 Universal attention was paid ; and William Tell 
 was not more applauded for taking an apple 
 from the head of his son, than I was for fetching 
 the stone from the bush. Bono Robbinis ! Bono 
 Robbinisl resounded through the valley, and I 
 immediately became great. Hamet slapped me 
 on the shoulder, in token of approbation, and 
 thought he had done well in buying me. 
 
 The dress of this tribe, although in the great 
 article of the long blanket, put on as before de- 
 scribed, it is similar to the others ; yet, they al- 
 most all wear a blue or white frock-shirt, falling 
 below the knees. They wear the usual belts, 
 and most of them slippers, and some of them 
 fine rich turbans of white cloth. The female 
 blankets are coloured red at the ends, with a 
 thick fringe. They wear a belt around the 
 waist, fastening one end of the blanket, over 
 which the other end is thrown after passing over 
 the shoulders, hanging upon one side, full at the 
 bottom, and plaited at the waist. Upon that 
 part of the blanket which covers the breast, they 
 wear large silver breast-plates, upon which are 
 engraved various figures and hieroglyphics, al- 
 ways kept exceedingly bright. In their ears,
 
 188 BOBBINS' JOUBNAL. 
 
 they wear silver hoops, some of which are a# 
 large as the top of a coffee-cup. Upon their 
 arms, they also wear silver rings, some going on 
 whole over the hand, and some fastened toge- 
 ther with clasps. Upon their hair, wrists, and 
 ankles, they have a redundancy of beautiful 
 shells. Some of the young females have the 
 most perfect symmetry in their forms, and when 
 full dressed, bounding over the plains, or riding 
 upon a camel, also ornamented with red breast- 
 girths, and red strips of cloth, hanging from the 
 elevated saddle, they might attract the eye, even 
 of an American. With a weed produced upon 
 the deserts the females paint their nails, their 
 hands, and faces a reddish color, in various 
 figures. With black lead they draw a circle 
 round their eyes. 
 
 The teachers in this tribe are numerous ; the 
 mode of instruction the same as that practised 
 with the Wiled D'leirn. The children, belong- 
 ing to this tribe, are almost all of them educa- 
 ted. Like the teachers in other tribes, they ex- 
 ercise great authority over the parents and chil- 
 dren ; and confirmed my belief, that they are of 
 the Mahommedan priesthood. They also, in this 
 tribe, take the lead in their mode of worship. 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 A Caravan — an armed Arab — black mountains — cultivated land 
 — apprehension of danger— African serpents — Ha met joins a 
 caravan which is attacked — mountains ofsand—fatigtie — ca- 
 ravan broken up— author sold tn Bel Cossim Abdalhih ofWa- 
 dinoon — wounded Arab — -arrival at Wadinoon. 
 
 FROM the best calculation I could make from 
 the number of days we had travelled, and the
 
 ROBBIXS' JOURNAL. 180 
 
 (mic we were slationary.it had become about the 
 1st of Marcto, 1<>16. Preparations were made b) 
 Hamet for a journey. He started with two ca- 
 mels, having before disposed of all his merchan- 
 dise. He however had with him a number of 
 bags for grain and goods, never having carried 
 a tent while 1 was with him. One of his neigh- 
 bours accompanied us. Harnet and I generally 
 rode oae camel and he another. Our course 
 was, for a few miles, to the north, when we came 
 up with a large collection of tents that were 
 pitched* The Arabs were preparing to form a 
 caravan. They consist of different numbers of 
 natives and camels. Some have fifty men and 
 five hundred beasts, and they sometimes amount 
 to five hundred men, and two thousand camels. 
 The armed Arabs take the command of the 
 whole, and travel or rest at pleasure. They ge- 
 nerally go forward forming the van, although 
 some of them are mixed with the unarmed ones, 
 giving orders concerning the camels, the travel- 
 lers, and the goods that are with them. They 
 always travel in compact order. An \rab chjefj 
 armed for a caravan, presents to the eye of the 
 beholder, a figure of the greatest boldness. He 
 is six feet high. A long, black, bushy beard 
 hangs from his chin to his breast. He has a 
 fierce, black eye, sunk deep into his head, with 
 i flick, black eye-brows projecting oi or them. — 
 His long white blanket is drawn close around 
 his body, leaving his legs bare from the knee. 
 Over this are cast, his red belts, crossing at the 
 breast and at the back. To one, is suspended 
 a large transparent powder-horn. decorated with 
 bands of shining brass; to, the other, a leathern
 
 190 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 pouch, containing balls, flints, and a screw-dri- 
 ver. To the other belt, is fastened the scab- 
 bard, containing a long, broad, and burnished 
 cutlass or scimitar. Around his waist is buckled 
 a broad, red, morocco belt, of many thicknesses, 
 confining the belts, that support the cutlass and 
 the horn. His head is generally naked, except- 
 ing a dress of black, bushy hair, although some- 
 times covered with a turban. His Moorish mus- 
 ket is always in his hand. Thus aimed, he is 
 ready, at any moment, to encounter a foe. A 
 caravan is formed from various tribes, and from 
 men inhabiting different parts of the continent 
 of Africa. When individuals wish to travel to 
 any particular place, and can find a caravan 
 bound to it, they join it; and agree to submit to 
 the regulations of it. and are entitled to all the 
 protection it can afford. In this way, they are 
 safe, unless they should be overcome by a more 
 powerful caravan. At this place, are formed 
 many of the great caravans that travel, in vari- 
 ous directions, across the desert. I learned, 
 from the natives, that many large caravans go 
 from this place to Soudan, and smaller ones to 
 Wadinoon. 
 
 Upon leaving this place, we travelled west, 
 inclining northerly, and in the course of the day. 
 came to a range of black mountains, stretching 
 to the southwest as far as the eye could discern ; 
 extending also a great distance to the northeast. 
 These mountains we passed, sometimes in val- 
 lies intersecting them, and sometimes we ascen- 
 ded to their summits. Between these mountains 
 we came to small patches of cultivated land, up- 
 on which was growing a species of barley, which
 
 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 19] 
 
 will hereafter be described. This was the first 
 cultivated laud I had seen in Africa, although 1 
 had, seemingly, travelled in every point in the 
 compass. Without stopping to inquire what 
 Ishmaelite it belonged to, our party, consisting 
 now of eight persons, deliberately cut and roast- 
 ed a sufficient quantity for present refreshment. 
 Continuing on our journey, until sun-set, we 
 reached a long range of tents, containing two 
 hundred, situated upon the side of a hill, where 
 we tarried through the night. The next day we 
 found that we had came to a part of the tribe of 
 Wiled Abbonssebah. I learned, that this was the 
 original tribe of the ElKabla, from which the latter 
 was formed into a new one. The number of ca- 
 mels, in the neighbourhood of the tents, was im- 
 mense. Judging from droves which I had before 
 seen, the numbers of which I knew, there cer- 
 tainly must have been five thousand. While I 
 was here, I saw great consternation excited at 
 the approach of a small party of Arabs, suppo- 
 sed to be a clan in pursuit of camels. They were 
 driven rapidly together to be guarded. We 
 started early in the morning, and travelled 
 through a bushy and grassy country. At about 
 noon, we came to a piece of ground having thin 
 low grass. We were travelling very moderately 
 upon a walk, when my attention was attracted 
 by a large shining black snake. He was coiled 
 round regularly like a cable; his head rising 
 from the centre about four inches high. Upon 
 coming very near to the serpent, he directed his 
 eyes towards me, and flattened his head. I told 
 Flamet what I saw, and he immediately alarmed 
 me, telling me to sheer off in an instant; which I
 
 ig2 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 did, without waiting to give him a farther ex- 
 amination, which I was about to do. From what 
 I soon learned, I found that by acquiring a mi- 
 nute knowledge of this venomous reptile, I should 
 certainly have lost my life. I cannot tell its 
 length, from the situation it was in, no otherwise 
 than by saying that it was about the size of a 
 chair pummel, and coiled, as it was, it made a 
 circle about as large as the top of a half bushel. 
 At eight or ten miles distance, we saw another of 
 the same size and appearance, but I was no 
 ways disposed to add to the little knowledge I 
 had previously obtained of African serpents. At 
 night we put up amidst a great number of tents, 
 situated near a small stream of water. The next 
 day we discovered a small caravan coming from 
 the south-east toward the tents where we lodg- 
 ed. It had about two hundred and fifty camels, 
 and fifteen armed Arabs, mounted upon fleet 
 Arabian horses. Our party joined it ; and as it 
 passed the tents, the owners of them assailed 
 the caravan, cutting from the camels the meat, 
 bowls, and other articles loaded upon them. 
 The armed Arabs of our caravan, with drawn 
 scimitars, soon dispersed them. 1 was mounted 
 upon a good camel, and put him into full speed ; 
 not wishing to be stolen from my worthy master 
 Hamet. The whole caravan bounded over the 
 plain with amazing velocity, the savages firing 
 upon us from the tents, till we were out of sight. 
 No lives were lost in our party ; but without 
 doubt, the Mahometans at the tents had to per- 
 form the funeral service over the bodies of some 
 of their companions. We travelled through the 
 day, upon the dry bed of a river twenty or thir-
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 193 
 
 ty rods wide. Such dried beds are frequently 
 found in this part of the Zahara desert, made 
 probably by the heavy rains, and the torrents 
 descending from hills which are always near 
 them. These beds are always chosen for a pas- 
 sage, as they are entirely smooth, and furnish 
 considerable grass. Our course was to the 
 northwest. 
 
 At night, the whole caravan stopped near a 
 field of grain ; and, as before mentioned, with- 
 out the least hesitation, the human beings feci 
 all night upon that, and the beasts upon the 
 grass. We here found a pond of stagnant water, 
 which furnished us with beverage for our enter- 
 tainment. The next day, highly refreshed, we 
 rose with the rising sun, and started with high 
 animation upon our journey. My life now be- 
 came happiness itself, in comparison with the 
 misery I had long endured. Haraet was uniform 
 ly kind. I had become familiarized with the 
 modes of an Arab's life ; and were it not from 
 the consideration that I was a slave, I should 
 have enjoyed happiness in reality. At about 10 
 o'clock, A. M. we came to the bed of a river at 
 least half a mile wide, having a small stream up- 
 on one shore of it. In passing the water, our 
 camels waded midsides high ; and in going over 
 the rest of the bed, they sunk in the moist clay- 
 ground, slipping at almost every step, having no 
 hard hoofs to make a hold. This was the rainy 
 serson in this part of the continent of Africa. It 
 sets in at different seasons, in different por- 
 tions of it. While Abyssinia is almost inunda- 
 Ini Soudan will endure a most dreadful drought. 
 
 R
 
 194 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 and the country adjoining Wadinoon will enjoy 
 the luxuriance of the growing season. 
 
 After passing this stream, we ascended a con- 
 siderable hill, and came into a country where 
 description must surrender its power. All that 
 can be said is, it was a world made up of sand- 
 hills and mountains, with narrow zig-zag passa- 
 ges through, and over them. Travelling was ex- 
 cessively fatiguing to the poor loaded camels, 
 and to their owners. It was still harder for the 
 horses, ridden by the armed Arabs. We ac- 
 complished the passage by sun-set, and found a 
 few tents, but lodged, as a caravan always does, 
 in the open air. Through the next day, we tra- 
 velled over a country, consisting of small hills 
 and plains, barren sands, and cultivated grounds 
 alternately intermixed. It rained gently all the 
 while. We saw a beautiful gazelle, which an 
 Arab attempted to shoot, but the sprightly ani- 
 mal defied even the musket, by his agility, and 
 escaped. Toward night the caravan was bro-' 
 ken up; the natives and camels composing it 
 having reached the place of their destination. 
 This night Hamet and I were welcomed to the 
 tent of one of his connections, as I concluded, 
 because, as before remarked, Arabs will permit 
 none but family connections to lodge in their 
 tents. I remained at this tent three days. Ha- 
 met, early in the first day, told me that he was 
 going to Sweahrah. I had been too often deceiv- 
 ed to believe it ; and my suspicions proved to be 
 true when, at the end of three days, he returned 
 with Bel Cossim Abdallah, from Wadinoon. 
 While here f found I was with the tribe of the 
 Wiled Adrialla, and by them was treated with
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 195 
 
 the greatest kindness; probably from the cir- 
 cumstance of belonging to Harriet, a merchant 
 . tribe of El Kabla, which, as before men- 
 tioned is a branch of the powerful and wealthy 
 (the Wiled Aboussebah. 
 I soon found that I was to be separated from 
 Hamet; whose uncommon goodness for an Arab, 
 made ne esteem him. He and Bel Cossim came 
 to the tent where I was situated, and began to 
 talk about me. Hamet asked me, in the hearing 
 of Bel Cosshn, " Ash soo-mook B^led cum?" 
 (whai 3 the name of your country?) I answered, 
 supposing that he, like the rest of the Arabs, had 
 no ide a oi America, " Fransah." He smiled, and 
 said, •< Arrah en tar murlcan* Fransah en tar Ame- 
 ricane." He gave me to understand, that he had 
 learned I was an American, a day or two before 
 at Wadinoon. It was a frequent inquiry made 
 about me, whether I belonged to the vessel that 
 had sc much money in it, meaning the Commerce. 
 They always insisted upon it, that great quanti- 
 ties were buried at Cape Bajador where she was 
 wrecked. I always denied it, fearing I should 
 be sent there to dig for it, which would remove 
 me fc rther from the hopes of being redeemed. 
 The next day after the return of Hamet from 
 Wad boon, I was taken off by my new master 
 Bel Cossim. Our course from this place to Wa- 
 il inoon was about northwest. Toward night, we 
 stopped at a tent, where we remained until the 
 morning. 1 here saw a wounded Arab who 
 had v. musket ball shot deep into the middle of 
 the thigh. Upon seeing me, they supposed I was 
 a doc -or, as they have many foreigners who re- 
 side upon the coast, as practitioners in surgery
 
 i96 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 and medicine. Bel Cossim and others urged 
 me to attempt to extract the ball, offering me a 
 great reward to effect it. I scorned the idea of 
 becoming a quack, even to deceive an Arab, and 
 declined to operate. No patient ever needed as- 
 sistance more to relieve him from the wound a 
 ball had made, and from the more terrible gash- 
 es and incisions made into the top of the thigh 
 io the bone, by the harsh knives of the Arabs. 
 In the evening, I saw the Spaniard, I have before 
 mentioned, who attempted to escape, and had 
 some conversation with him in the Arab lan- 
 guage, in which I could now converse tolerably 
 well, however difficult it is to write it with accu- 
 racy, after a long acquaintance with it. 
 
 We travelled moderately on foot for three 
 days, passing from one cluster of tents to anoth- 
 er, until we reached the celebrated town of 
 Wadinoon. Upon the passage, Bel Cossim pur- 
 chased a small copper kettle, and a quantity of 
 tow-cloth, which I had to carry. The name oi 
 the country through which we passed, was call- 
 ed BHed-Mouessa Ali, and the natives call them- 
 selves Misse-k-mene. We passed, upon the last 
 day, a very small village situated upon an ele- 
 vated piece of ground, from which we had a 
 view of Wadinoon. This place is called Wah- 
 roon. I have mentioned the method 1 adopted 
 to keep my reckoning of time, i. e. by the string, 
 in which I daily tied a knot until I disused it: 
 by remembering the number of days we were 
 upon the numerous journeys, and the number of 
 days we rested. From this method of calcula- 
 tion, for six months, I made the day of my arri- 
 ^aVat Wadinoon the 12th of March. But I there
 
 BOBBINS' JOUKNAL 197 
 
 I, upon ascertaining the actual time of the 
 year, that I had lost four days, the day of my ar- 
 rival being the lGth day of March, 1 8 1 G. The 
 day after my arrival was a market-day, which is 
 held weekly. I found this to he upon the Chris- 
 tian sabbuth ; and that the Mahommedan sabbath 
 s upon Friday, according to our calendar. 
 • family of Hoi Cossim consisted of his 
 . who was his third one, by whom he had 
 two son^ iaugruer. His first wife left a 
 
 son and a d his second wife a daughter. 
 
 His oldest son, Hamada. was married, and lived 
 in the same house with him, being himself an 
 aged man. A married daughter lived in an ad- 
 joining one. He had five black slaves. He had 
 other wives living in tents whom he occasional- 
 ly visited. 
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 Wddinoon — its situation — number of houses and inhabitants — 
 cattle — people — gardens — vegetables — barley harvest — cruel- 
 ty of Bel Cossim — reaping, threshing, winnowing and grind- 
 ing — keskoosoo— eating — market and fairs — manner of build- 
 ing houses — Sheick's house. 
 
 I NOW became a settled resident in what 
 may be called the capital of the northern desert 
 ofZahara. To my inexpressible satisfaction, I 
 found Porter a resident here also. He had be- 
 coine the slave of a wealthy merchant, and was 
 what might be called a well dressed man any 
 where. He lived as well as could be wished, 
 and it may be said, enjoyed " leisure with dig- 
 nity." He informed me that he had written to 
 
 R2
 
 198 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 Jlfogadore, and that Abdullah Hamet, his master, 
 had received a letter concerning him — that he 
 was in daily expectation of receiving one him- 
 self, and considered his ransom as certain, and 
 that he had heard of the arrival of Capt. Riley 
 at Gibraltar. A few days previous to my arri- 
 val here, the crew of the British brig Surprise 
 left this place, and were in the keeping of Sidi 
 Hesham, of Suse, for the purpose of being ran- 
 somed. 
 
 The town of Wadinoon is situated upon the 
 western coast of the continent of Africa, about 
 thirty miles from the sea, and upon the northern 
 border of the Great Desert of Zahara. it is in 
 that part of the continent called Suse, sometimes 
 distinguished by Upper and Lower Suse. It is in 
 28° 15 minutes N. Latitude, and 11° W. Longi- 
 tude. A range of mountains, of considerable 
 height, lies along between that and the sea, upon 
 the north, and a similar range upon the south, 
 leaving between them a valley of about six miles 
 in width. This valley diminishes in width to- 
 ward the east, and is ended by the termination 
 of the Adas Mountains. Upon a rising piece of 
 ground near the middle of this valley is built the 
 town of Wadinoon. From this place may be 
 seen the village of Wahroon, to the west, at 
 seven miles distance ; another village to the 
 southeast, at twelve miles distance ; and Akka? 
 dia to the northeast, at fifteen miles distance 
 From the mountain, upon the north, issues a 
 small stream from a boiling spring, running into 
 the town, and furnishing water for the whole oi 
 it. It is the finest water imaginable. The whole 
 of it is absorbed in the place for necessary pur-
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 199 
 
 poses, and watering the gardens. The other vil- 
 lages also have small streams to afford them wa- 
 ter. The number of houses included within the 
 town of Wadinoon, while I resided there, which 
 was eleven months, reckoning two new ones, 
 built while I was there, is forty-five. Some of 
 these, however, being large, contain a number 
 of distinct dwellings for different families. The 
 number of families, statedly residing here, was 
 between ninety -five and an hundred, almost 
 every one of which, during my residence, I had 
 some acquaintance with, from the service I had 
 to perform for my master Bel Cossim, who was 
 a trader and also a farmer. Families here will 
 average five individuals each, exclusive of slaves; 
 the slaves in the town, amounting to an hundred 
 and fifty of African blacks. The only Christian 
 slave at the time I arrived was Porter, and I made 
 the second. Of the black slaves, the Sheick, or 
 governor of the place, was possessed of twenty. 
 
 The cattle in this place were horses, (Vhile) a 
 few cows, (Vbugrcm) asses, (hermafi) mules, (hu- 
 gataK) sheep, Gcipps) and goats, (7««mW.) Ca- 
 mels are seldom kept within the town, unless it 
 be a few J\aigs to furnish milk, when the cows 
 become dry. The residents in the town, many 
 of them, possess large droves at keeping in dif- 
 ferent parts of the adjoining country. Bel Cos- 
 sjrn had several hundreds. They have fowls si- 
 milar to our dung-hill fowls. 
 
 The inhabitants are generally descendants of 
 the tribe of Wiled Aboassehuh ; although with 
 them, are intermixed many of different tribes. 
 Being much better educated than the wandering 
 Arabs, they are much more refined in their man-
 
 200 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 ners than they are, although many of them ma- 
 nifest the ferocious nature, and vindictive spirit, 
 common to ail the descendants of Ishmael. 
 
 The mode of dressing is similar to that of the 
 Arabs of the desert ; although very much ex- 
 ceeding theirs, in the quality of the cloth. In 
 addition to the dress of a wanderer, they have 
 an outward garment, covering the whole body 
 from the top of the head to the knee. It is wo- 
 ven Avhole of fine camel's hair and wool, is re- 
 markably thick, and will shed rain for a very 
 long time. These are not manufactured there, 
 but are obtained from the trading Moors. When 
 on, they look like a riding-hood ; the head-piece 
 of which is ornamented at the top with a tassel. 
 They are of various colours, some of them hav- 
 ing a very rich appearance ; and those that are 
 black have a large oval piece of orange colored 
 cloth, woven into the back, toward the bottom. 
 The female dress differs but little from that be- 
 fore described, only in richness of quality. Some 
 of the silk turbans are really elegant; having a 
 broad piece of rich silk hanging from them to the 
 hip. They invariably conceal their faces when 
 walking in public. 
 
 The gardens are chiefly situated in the bor- 
 ders of the village. They are fenced in by a 
 wall, composed of mud. upon the top of which 
 are placed thorn-bushes, secured to it by laying 
 large stones upon the stocks, leaving the bows 
 to project over the outer edge of the wall to keep 
 out intruders; stealing being a vice as prevalent 
 here, ae upon the desert. These gardens are 
 cultivated with the greatest attention, and pro- 
 duce a great variety of vegetables.
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 201 
 
 The ingenuity of laying out garders here must 
 excite the admiration of every beholder. Let :he 
 surface of the ground be what it may, the beds, 
 in which the vegetables are to be planted, are 
 always made an exact water-level. They e <ch 
 have a ridge of earth upon the outer edge, ten 
 inches high, which remains through the season. 
 Each garden has a sluice-way, through which 
 the water is conducted into the alleys. From 
 the alleys, the water is conducted into the b ds, 
 through an aperture in the ridge, which is clo- 
 sed as soon as the bed is filled, leaving the water 
 to soak into the ground. In this way, they go on, 
 filling one bed after another in the garden, how- 
 ever numerous they may be. Every garden in 
 the place is watered in this manner. The wa- 
 ter is supplied from the spring in the mountain 1 , 
 before mentioned. As it descends toward the 
 town, it is drawn off in different directions for 
 the accommodation of the people. Three reser- 
 voirs have been made by digging large basins in 
 the ground, and bordering them with a wall 
 composed of mud and stones. These bein ■.-•; sit- 
 uated in different parts of the town, furnish a 
 sufficiency for all the gardens. These reservoirs 
 are owned by a number of proprietors, each ha- 
 ving the privilege of drawing off the w r ater, a 
 number of days proportionate to the size of his 
 garden, 
 
 The vegetables produced in these gardens are 
 the following : — The Arabic names are spelled as _ 
 pronounced at Wadinoon. 
 
 Arabic. English. 
 
 Bishnall-suffarah, Yellow-corn. 
 
 Bishnall-hamerah, Red or Guinea-corn.
 
 202 
 
 ROBBLNS' JOURNAL. 
 
 
 Liffett, 
 
 Turnips. 
 
 
 Keizah, 
 
 Carrots. 
 
 
 Bessal, 
 
 Onions. 
 
 
 
 ( Pumpkins, sauash, 
 
 and 
 
 C'shash, 
 
 \ gourds. 
 
 
 Lyroom, 
 
 Cabbage, 
 
 
 Dillaa, 
 
 Watermelons. 
 
 
 Fijfil, 
 
 Peppers. 
 
 
 Tobac, 
 
 Tobacco. 
 
 
 T'murr, 
 
 Dates. 
 
 
 Zurrah, 
 
 Barley. 
 
 
 Carmoose, 
 
 Figs. 
 
 
 Arromann, 
 
 Pomegranates. 
 
 
 Tafferrez, 
 
 Pears. 
 
 
 Tack-nerrite, 
 
 Prickly-Pears. 
 
 
 Nornipps, 
 
 G rap Co. 
 
 
 Henneh is a small leaf taken from a shrub, 
 and dried, of which a powder is made, by mix- 
 ing which with water a beautiful coloring is 
 made for the hair, Thi article of 
 
 traffic. The; kinds* of vegeta 
 
 appearance and in taste, are » ery sin those 
 
 of the same species produced in New- England. 
 Barley and wheat are raised in fields -as well ,o- 
 in gardens; the reason why the Arfd.-s sow any 
 
 miens is, the fear that the fields will 
 dried up where they canuoj water them as lln\) 
 do in gardens. Wheat is raised but in small 
 quantities. 
 
 At the time of my arrival at Wadinoon, i ' **■ 
 barley was ripe il>v harvesting. J was immedi- 
 ately put upon instruction to learn the art of 
 reaping; but shewed ;is much ignorance and 
 obstinacy in that art, in tins place, as I did in thai
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 203 
 
 of fishing near Cape Mirik, and lending camels 
 with Mearah. On the second day, 1 loitered 
 around the fields, not knowing where the black 
 slaves were at work. Bel Cossitn ransacked the 
 town to find me in vain, but his son Hamada found 
 me. Bel Cossim approached me in a rage, 
 struck me with his fists a number of blows, and 
 then threw a heavy stone, which hit me upon the 
 side, the effects of which I severely felt for two 
 months. I longed for revenge in vain. Had it 
 taken place Upon the deck of a vessel, I should 
 soon have obtained ample satisfaction. I found 
 resistance was in vain,and finally submitted to per- 
 form easy tasks. This ultimately proved a benefit, 
 rather than an injury ; for while other Christian 
 slaves were wearing away life in listless indo- 
 lence, in the houses of their masters, pondering 
 upon their fate, I was constantly traversing the 
 town and the adjoining country ; in a degree 
 forgetting my miseries, and daily acquiring 
 knowledge of the place, and the manners, cus- 
 toms, and habits of the people. I found amuse- 
 ment and instruction, in the midst of my services. 
 The barley harvest was not all gotten in until 
 the first of June, one field becoming ripe after 
 another, having been sowed at different times. 
 This barley more nearly resembled oats, than 
 barley, the hull adhering to it. At one time, I 
 was reaping with thirty Arabs, who gave my 
 master, what is called a spell in N. England, and 
 a tuezar at Wadiuoon. We partook of our din- 
 ner, (loader) consisting of Kcskoosoo and El-ham 
 in the field, having water from a spring. The 
 sickles are of Moorish manufacture, not dissimi- 
 lar td ours. The grain grows two feet and an
 
 204 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 half high, and very thick. As they reap it each 
 handful is bound into a sheaf, and it is very soon 
 sUcked in the field. When the whole field is 
 reaped and stacked, the grain is transported up- 
 on the backs of camels and mules to the com- 
 mon threshing ground near the town, which is 
 entirely hard, and generally composed of smooth 
 rocks. The grain is beaten out with horses, as- 
 ses, and mules. By this operation, the straw and 
 berry is all beaten together, leaving the straw as 
 fine as that which is cut with a machine. The 
 grain is separated from the chaff and fine straw. 
 by throwing it up into the wind with a wooden 
 fork of three flat tines ; this being continued un- 
 til the berry is entirely cleaned from every thing. 
 With a good wind, a man in this manner will 
 clean fifty bushels in a day. The grain is dried 
 in earthen pots by fire, to prepare it for grind- 
 ing. Every family grinds a portion of barley 
 every day. This is done between two stones, the 
 under one lying permanently upon the ground — 
 the upper one having a hole in the centre. With 
 one hand, the grain is thrown in, with the other 
 the stone is turned round : the flour coming out 
 all round the bottom of it. It is then sifted through 
 a sieve, made of sheep's skin, when green, by 
 pricking holes through it, and drying it sudden- 
 ly with embers. This is put into hoops similar 
 to our sieves. The flour is then put into a large 
 shallow bowl, and by sprinkling water upon it in 
 small quantities, and rolling the flour upon the 
 bottom of the bowl with the hand, it is soon form- 
 ed into small balls of the size of pepper corns. 
 An earthen pot (gidderah) is filled with water, 
 and when boiling, the little balls, being put into
 
 ROB BUNS' JOURNAL. 20 Ji 
 
 a grass basket, (kessikas) set upon the top of the 
 pot, into which the steam of the boiling water 
 ascends and cooks it. When it is cooked, it i* 
 called Kcskoosoo, before mentioned, and is the 
 principal food of the inhabitants ; although they 
 often have vegetables with it, and sometimes a 
 little meat (El ham.) The different sexes neve- 
 eat in company ; but both partake of their food, 
 sitting upon the ground, and eating with then- 
 hands from wooden dishes, always washing their 
 hands before they eat. 
 
 It had now become the 1st of June; the bar lev 
 harvest was through, and the gardens occupied 
 the chief attention. They were filled with the 
 various vegetables enumerated before, many of 
 which were ripened, and required great care. 
 Bel Cossitn appointed me El Rats, or Captain of 
 this part of his dominions, and authorized me to 
 expel intruders and punish aggressors. In the ex- 
 ercise of this power, I one day saluted an Arru- 
 bere, as the wandering Arabs are called by the 
 citizens of Wadinoon, with a heavy stone, having 
 caught him stealing grapes. He immediately 
 turned, and aimed his musket toward me, which 
 \ totally disregarded ; and, in a tone of authori- 
 ty, commanded him to flee, which he insta' tjy 
 obeyed. My master urged me to accept of a 
 musket, which I declined, knowing that he would 
 soon have compelled me to bear arms, in de- 
 fence, against the numerous marauders who of- 
 ten infest the town, and render every thing in- 
 secure. 
 
 The markets and. fairs at this place are steadi- 
 ly iiolden on co n week, upon the Christian sab- 
 
 s
 
 206 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 bath, the Mahommedan sabbath being upon Friday, 
 At these markets, are exposed for sale, almost 
 every species of vegetables produced in the 
 country — Olive oil and Argan oil are also offer- 
 ed, and purchased in greater or smaller quanti- 
 ties by almost every one. Zate is a common term 
 for every species of oil. These oils are manu- 
 factured and sold by a race of natives called 
 Berrebers, in distinction from Arabs and Moors, 
 occupying the western coast of Africa, extending 
 from Morocco, south to the dominions of Sidi 
 Hesham. These natives will be more particular- 
 ly mentioned hereafter. Another kind of thick, 
 white oil, made from small red berries, is also 
 sold, which is called d'hcnt. Some kind of oil is 
 always eaten with koskoosoo. Honey is also ex- 
 posed for sale. Various meats are also in mar- 
 ket, among which are beef, mutton, camel's and 
 goat's meat; and sometimes cooked locusts. 
 Bread, called khobz, is also sold. It is in heavy, 
 black cakes, about the size of a sea-biscuit. 
 Grain is also retailed. The foregoing articles 
 include all that is sold for food. 
 
 At the fairs are offered for sale almost every 
 article oiclothing, necessary to cover or ornament 
 the body. Blankets, or haicks, blue cottons, 
 slippers, belts, turbans, and almost every species 
 of trinkets. Occasionally, spices are exposed 
 for sale — also powder, tobacco, and tar — the last 
 article being in great use among the wandering 
 Arabs fox healing camels, which are also sold 
 here, and killing camel bugs. The persons re- 
 sorting to these markets, as sellers and purcha- 
 sers, embrace almost every different race of 
 Africans. A duty or compensation is always de
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 207 
 
 inanded by the town, and paid by the sellers, for 
 the use of the markets. 
 
 The mode of building houses may be reckon- 
 ed among the peculiarities of these people. They 
 have not sufficient wood to burn their clay into 
 bricks, nor have they timber of sufficient size to 
 saw into boards. There seems to be no other 
 mode in which they could erect habitations but 
 that resorted to. The houses are built of mud 
 and stones. They begin the wall by placing a 
 framed box, ten feet long, three feet high, and 
 two and an half feet wide, upon the ground. 
 This they fill with moistened earth, occasionally 
 mixing flat stones with it. As it is thrown in, two 
 persons standing within the box, pound it down 
 as hard as possible. When the box is filled, it 
 is taken apart, carried forward, and placed in an 
 exact range with the piece of wall thus begun, 
 The same process is carried on, until the wiole 
 foundation is raised three feet high — this making 
 the lower tier — Any number of tiers are placed 
 upon the top of each other that the owner chooses, 
 sometimes extending to seven. In one corner of 
 the house, is carried up from the bottom, a wall 
 ten feet square, having an apartment within it 
 and rising from fifteen to twenty feet above the 
 top of the four side-walls of the house. This 
 makes the battlement or tower, for the defence 
 of the house. These walls are covered upon 
 the top by thorn bushes, in the same manner that 
 garden walls are, there being upon the top of 
 the house, no manner of roof To secure the 
 people and furniture, within these walls, from 
 rain, there are small rooms, about six feet wide, 
 and sometimes extending around the whole main
 
 208 HOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 wall about eight feet high, but sometimes raised 
 two stories high. In these, the people sleep up- 
 on mats. The roof is composed of rafters made 
 of date-trees, extending from the main wall to 
 the inner one. Upon these are placed reeds in 
 thick order, and then covered with mud. The 
 centre of the house is left exposed to rain, and 
 the water is conducted off by a sluice through 
 one of the outer walls. There is but one door 
 or gate, which is made very strong by rivetling 
 top-ether timbers of date-tree with iron bolts. 
 This is fastened at night with a wooden lock oi 
 the most curious manufacture. The cattle, of 
 various kinds, occupy the open area within the 
 walls during the night season. Some of these 
 houses have two or three different families oc- 
 cupying them, in different apartments. The 
 Shack's house is the largest in the place, stand- 
 ing a little distance from the compact part of the 
 town. In addition to the common walls, he had 
 a wall about six rods from the house walls, en- 
 tirely surrounding the house, enclosing as much 
 as two acres of ground. Within it, he has a 
 small church for his own devotion?, and that of 
 his visitants, which are very numerous. His bat- 
 tlement is twenty feet high, in which are placed 
 one of the guns of the British brig Surprise, which 
 has been mentioned as lately lost upon the wes- 
 tern coast of Africa. The houses are built pro- 
 miscuously, without forming any regular streets.
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 209 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 Public worship— fasting season— feasting season — circumcision 
 — wreck of a prize to the Romp, and her crew — redemption of 
 the crew of the British brig Surprise — Sidi Hesham, his ap- 
 pearance and power — Jews, decree concerning them — tobacco 
 and snuff— Hamet Webber. 
 
 THE religious ceremonies of the Mahomme- 
 dans, in families and small parties upon the de- 
 ^rts, has already been minutely described, and 
 frequently mentioned. In the town of Wadinoon. 
 is a place consecrated for the sole purpose of per- 
 forming their solemn rites, and manifesting their 
 faith by their external ordinances. The build- 
 ing, in which they worship, has outward walls', 
 built in the same manner as other houses, alrea- 
 dy described ; but this has a flat roof, covering 
 the whole at the top. The roof is supported by 
 pillars in the inner side of the building, built with 
 stone and mortar. It is arched upon the top ; 
 and upon the arches are painted, very coarsely, 
 fhe sun, moon, and stars, and some other figures, 
 which cannot be described particularly, as an 
 m-sahrdu was not permitted to enter it ; and the 
 only way I ever got within it, was by exercising 
 secrecy to gratify my curiosity. Before they 
 enter the temple, they wash themselves in warm- 
 ed water prepared in the yard, as they do with 
 sand upon the deserts. Their mode of worship, 
 after they enter, I cannot describe, as I never 
 witnessed it; although they sulk in the same 
 manner upon the roof as upon the deserts. The 
 building is small, but large enough for s > small a
 
 210 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 place as Wadinoon ; and sufficiently capacious to 
 enable its few inhabitants of the male sex to 
 M^orship ; females never being allowed to assem- 
 ble with them. In the same house, the public- 
 school is kept ; the mode of instruction the same 
 as before described. 
 
 The fasting season was a time of the greatest 
 solemnity. It lasted for a whole moon, begin- 
 ning when the new moon first made its appear- 
 ance, in June, 1816. I conclude this must be 
 the season of the annual fast, it certainly was in 
 the season I resided at Wadinoon. During the 
 continuance of this season, the natives never ate 
 or drank between the rising and setting sun ; but 
 indulged themselves in both, with great voraci- 
 ty, during the darkness of the night. As I was 
 resolved to show not the least conformity to the 
 faith of Mussulmen* I made this a feasting season. 
 having a full supply of tack-nerrites and nor)>iijps. 
 
 The day after the fast concluded, the feasting 
 season commenced. A spectator would have con- 
 cluded that a month's abstinence was amply sa- 
 tisfied by a day of gluttony. The whole cooked 
 dishes in the town were all brought to the mar- 
 ket-place. Those who brought many changes 
 of dishes fared no better than those who brought 
 none. It was "fall to and spare not ;" and whe- 
 ther the system of Mahomet requires it or not. 
 the law of nature would dictate that afast should 
 follow, as well as precede a feast. These feasts 
 frequently occur, as the Mahommedans have 
 many holydays in honour of their different saints. 
 Besides the general fast, single fast days fre- 
 quently occur among different individuals, at 
 different times, and for different judgments.
 
 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 211 
 
 The feast was concluded a little past noon, 
 and, after some sports in firing, the ceremony of 
 circumcision commenced. From the most frantic 
 and hoisterous mirth, the whole multitude be- 
 came, as if by a shock of electricity, immediate- 
 ly solemnized. The Jews invariably circumcise 
 their children at eight days old ; but among the 
 Mews and Arabs, no particular age is regarded ; 
 but it is performed as circumstances make it 
 convenient. Two of Bel Cossinvs children were 
 this day circumcised, one aged nine, the other 
 fourteen years. The ceremony was performed 
 in the yard adjoining the Zham, or the place of 
 religious worship. That, and the adjoining 
 grounds, were crowded with spectators. I, how- 
 ever, mingled with the rabble in such a manner 
 as to witness the ceremony, notwithstanding I 
 was not a Mussulman. It was performed by a 
 Mohammedan priest, with the most profound so- 
 lemnity. The child was presented to the priest 
 by the father, holding him in his arms with his 
 private parts exposed. The priest drew the 
 foreskin as far forward as possible without giv- 
 ing pain, then, with an Vmoose, (knife) he cut the 
 skit.' off without touching the fleshy part, leaving 
 that forever afterwards entirely bare. This ope- 
 ration causes the child to shriek ; upon which, a 
 number of muskets are fired. At this time, a 
 number were circumcised from the age of about 
 five years, to that of eighteen. Two of the grand- 
 children of Bel Cossim were circumcised, the 
 youngest of which was between five and six 
 years of age. At every ceremony the muskets 
 were discharged. The circumcised children 
 were kept in for a month, and prohibited the use
 
 212 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 of every species of fruit, unless it was prepared. 
 Within that time, they generally recovered ; and 
 during my residence in Africa, I never knew 
 death occasioned by circumcision. The black 
 Africans, that are brought to Wadinoon from the 
 country of Soudan, are sometimes uncircumcised. 
 The fasting-season ended the 24th July, 1816, 
 and the feasting and circumcision took place on 
 the 25th, the new moon having appeared. At 
 about this time, I became acquainted with a 
 Christian slave, who, a short time before, arrived 
 at Wadinoon. His name was Thomas Davis, and 
 he informed me that he was an American ; that 
 he formerly belonged to the privateer Romp, of 
 Baltimore ; that he was one of the prize-crew on 
 board a Spanish vessel, that had been captured 
 by the Romp, bound to Buenos Ayres. The ves- 
 sel was wrecked upon the western coast of Afri- 
 ca in about 19° North Latitude, in May, 1816. 
 The captain of the prize was drowned, and the 
 remaining crew, five in number, were enslaved 
 by a tribe of wandering Arabs. Their names, 
 besides Davis, were Smith, (drowned) prize- 
 master ; John Brown ; George Hall ; John, a Span- 
 iard, and an American gentleman, who, I was in- 
 formed, had been a major in the late United 
 States Army, and had, when wrecked, a com- 
 mission in the Army of the Spanish Patriots, and 
 was bound there, as a passenger, to join thorn. 
 He and Brown were slaves to Sheick AH, chief 
 of a tribe of wandering Arabs. Brown, after his 
 arrival at Wadinoon, which was in December, 
 1816, informed me that this gentleman died up- 
 on the desert, a few days before he arrived there, 
 from absolute starvation, and that he buried him
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 213 
 
 I published an article upon this subject soon af- 
 ter I returned to America. 
 
 About this time I learned, by the arrival of 
 Sifli Hesham, at Wadinoon, that the crew of the 
 British brig Surprise, who have before been men- 
 tioned as detained by him for the purpose of be- 
 ing ransomed, were released atMogadore, through 
 the instrumentality of the Hon. William Will- 
 shire, a philanthropist, to whom a very great 
 proportion of the Christian slaves in Africa have, 
 for some time past, been indebted for their eman- 
 cipation from the most cruel and hopeless bon- 
 dage. 
 
 The appellation Sidi is applied indiscriminate- 
 ly to every man who holds a slave ; so that I 
 might have dignified my different masters by the 
 names of Sidi Ganus, Sidi Meaarah, Sidi Harriet. 
 and Sidi Bel Cossim. This term, by the Moors 
 and drabs, is also applied to their Saints. When 
 it is bestowed upon a native, having the power 
 of Sidi Hesham, I do not know how extensive its 
 meaning becomes. This Sidi Hesham resided 
 about fifty miles N. E. from Wadinoon, and was 
 often there during my residence in that place. 
 He always was accompanied by a numerous 
 body-guard of well armed Arabs, sometimes 
 amounting to thirty, mounted upon elegant, fleet, 
 well trained horses. He Mas always received 
 by the natives of Wadinoon, with the most distin- 
 guished respect. The most splendid dinner, 
 which the place could provide, was spread be- 
 fore him. His guard was also treated with that 
 kind of attention, which even great folks bestow 
 upon those who follow in the train of a great 
 character. While I was a resident there, he was
 
 214 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 scouring the country with six hundred mounted 
 Arabs, spreading terror and exciting conster- 
 nation wherever he went. He often robbed the 
 caravans, bound from Soudan to Fez and Mo- 
 rocco, securing his plunder in the fastnesses of 
 the Atlas mountains, which, as has been mention- 
 ed, bound the long valley in which Wadinoon is 
 situated at the northeast. But a short time be- 
 fore I arrived there, the Moorish troops belong- 
 ing to the Emperor of Morocco, Moolay Solimaan. 
 drove Sidi Hesham from his holds, to the south 
 of Wadinoon; but coisld not pursue him through 
 the desert, where he and his clan were at home. 
 The Moors encamped upon a small hill upon 
 the east of the town, planted their cannon there, 
 and alarmed the place for a number of days. 
 Great numbers of slaves fled from their Arab 
 masters, and joined the Moorish army. They 
 however decamped without destroying the place, 
 which might easily have been effected by a twelve 
 pounder; there being no cannon in the town. 
 Indeed, had it been lined with a park of artille- 
 ry, the total ignorance of the Arabs in enginery, 
 would have rendered them useless. 
 
 I shall have occasion to mention the country 
 inhabited by this powerful chief, in my tour from 
 Wadinoon to Mo^adore. 
 
 Sidi Hesham, in his person, is six feet high. He 
 is an old man, with a very full white beard hang- 
 ing low on the breast. His haick and turban 
 were of the finest texture of that country. His 
 fine blue broadclo<h cloak was trimmed quite 
 round with red siik. His morocco boot-legs 
 reached from his knees, and were made fast to 
 his Moorish slippers, over which were buckled
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 215 
 
 large silver spurs. His belts were broad, and of 
 red Morocco, crossing at the breast and at the 
 back. From one was suspended his immense 
 powder-horn, almost covered with broad bands 
 of shining brass ; from the other hung his long 
 burnished cutlass. Around his waist was wound 
 his broad scarlet sash, confining his belts to his 
 body. His long Moorish musket was decorated 
 with silver bands from the lock to the muzzle. 
 The breech was of ivory, and that part of the 
 stock composed of black wood, was filled with 
 ivory stars curiously inlaid. His horse was an 
 Arabian courser, of the highest blood, and a 
 beautiful milk-white. His flowing mane separa- 
 ted in the middle, covering his neck upon each 
 side. His fore-top was confined by a broad fore- 
 head piece hanging down over his eyes, and al- 
 most concealing them. His long thick tail fell 
 to the ground. He was caparisoned with a 
 Moorish saddle, covered with red broadcloth. 
 The stirrups covered half of the bottom of He- 
 sham's feet. His portmanteau was striped with 
 black, yellow, and red, and richly tasselled at 
 each end. When mounted upon this courser, 
 SMi Hesham would excite admiration, mingled 
 with terror. The appearance of the principal 
 Sidis is similar to that of Hesham. Their horses 
 and muskets differ but little \ and take them and 
 their clans together, perhaps the world hardly 
 affords a more desperate band. 
 
 The Jews formerly resorted to Wadinoon in 
 considerable numbers for the purposes of traffic; 
 but a Jew is esteemed but little higher than a 
 Christian, although they are never enslaved. At 
 the time J came to this place, I often saw them
 
 216 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 there ; but during my residence, a Jew was guil- 
 ty of some deception or fraud in regard to a let- 
 ter sent by the Sheick, or governor, to Sidi Hesh- 
 am, and a decree was passed, that no Jew should 
 enter the town ; and 1 never saw an Israelite there 
 after that time. An intelligent Jew informed me 
 that by the law, none of his race were permitted 
 to purchase or hold Christian slaves upon pain 
 of death ; and that a Jew was slain but a short 
 time before, for violating it, by having one in his 
 possession. They stand in awe of both Moors 
 and Arabs. It is a subject of wonder, that the 
 Jews ^the once favoured people of Heaven, should, 
 even down to the nineteenth century, humble 
 themselves before the descendants of Ishmael, 
 the most despised and degraded of all the an- 
 cient children of Abraham. 
 
 The season had now advanced to the month 
 of September. The tobacco was sufficiently ri- 
 pened, to cut and cure. It is not so large as that 
 produced in North-America, but very similar in 
 its appearance. The method of curing it is, by 
 cutting off the stock, just above each leaf, begin- 
 ning at the bottom one. A bunch is then tied 
 together at the union of the leaf with the stock. 
 It is then laid upon the flat roofs of the rooms 
 within the main walls of the houses, and remains 
 there until sufficiently dried and cured to smoke 
 at home, or send off to the desert. Snuff is made 
 by pulverizing dried tobacco between stones. 
 and mixing with it a weed of strong and delicious 
 flavor. With this they frequently rub their teeth, 
 which are almost invariably white. 
 
 Merchants are constantly arriving at Wadi- 
 uooii from the Zahara desert, belonging to dif-
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 217 
 
 ferent wandering tribes. Among them, I often 
 saw my kind master Ha?net Webber, of whom, and 
 from every one who arrived here from the desert, 
 I inquired concerning the situation of the Chris- 
 tian slaves among the wandering Arabs; and 
 learned that two Americans, one white and one 
 black were dead. From the accounts I received,! 
 suspect the white slave must have been Antonio, 
 and the black one Dick. Hamet always seemed 
 rejoiced to see me, and frequently told me he 
 saved my life. This I believed without his as- 
 sertion. I always acknowledged my gratitude, 
 and told him I would amply reward him if he 
 would come to my country. He would ask me. 
 what I would give ? He asked me if there was 
 a God in my country? wondered why Christians 
 did not *SV/e; and be circumcised; and would 
 devoutly exclaim " Sheda Mahommed, Rahsoot 
 Mah." 
 
 CHAP. XX. 
 
 .Yature of government among Arabs — marriage ceremonies — in- 
 terment of dead — the Saint, Sidi Timah — a mound — practice 
 of physic — amusements — ransom of Porter — quarrel between 
 Wadinoon and Akkadia — a food — ploughing season — descrip- 
 tion of locusts — muttomorahs. 
 
 WHILE at Wadinoon, I took every opportu- 
 nity in my power to ascertain the nature of the 
 government in operation. My advantages to ob- 
 tain correct information upon this important sub- 
 ject were of necessity limited ; but I will com- 
 municate what little I do know. 
 
 The Sheick, or governor, has a council con- 
 T
 
 218 BOBBINS' JOUBNAL. 
 
 sisting of all the principal natives of Wadinoon. 
 They frequently assemble at the governor's 
 house, both to make laws and judge upon the 
 violations of them. The government of Wadi- 
 noon extends through most of the tribes inhabit- 
 ing the northern parts of the Desert of Zahara. 
 From all the observations I made, and from all 
 the information I could obtain, 1 feel confident 
 that the tribes have a distinct government among 
 themselves, exercised by their several Shrieks ; 
 and that the government of Wadinoon exercised 
 a sort of supreme control over the whole. This 
 conclusion is drawn from the fact, that minor 
 offences are tried and punished upon the desert; 
 and that those of greater enormity are tried and 
 punished by the authority of that place; some- 
 times by a council holden at the Shriek's house 
 in Wadinoon ; and sometimes by the Shriek and 
 council holding a session, or court, in the inte- 
 rior, upon the desert. During my residence, a 
 controversy arose between a pr.rt of the tribe of 
 the Wiled Abousseboh, and a part of the Wiled 
 Adrialla, at tbr fi*Ud Mouessa Ah. The first men- 
 tioned tribe demanded a number of Izhmar/s, or 
 camels of burthen, of the last. The Adrialla re- 
 fused, and a contest ensued. Expresses were 
 immediately despatched to Wadinoon for the 
 Shriek and council to repair to the scene of con- 
 troversy. The express arrived at 12 o'clock at 
 night, and in less than thirty minutes, the Shriek 
 and council were armed, mounted, and upon the 
 march. Bel Cossim's son, Hanmdx, went in his 
 stead. Before they arrived at the BHed Mouessa 
 AUy a battle had commenced. It was fought by 
 armed Arabs mounted upon horses. While the
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 219 
 
 battle was raging, the Sheicfc and council arri- 
 ved, and a cessation of hostilities immediately 
 took place. A number of the Aboussebah were 
 slain and five of trieir horses. The «. rialla lost 
 no men, and but a single horse. The S/ieick and 
 council decided the controversy in favour of the 
 Adrialla ; and the Aboussebahs were compelled to 
 forfeit to them a number of camels, as a compen- 
 sation for the injury. The particulars of this 
 contest, and the manner of its settlement, I had 
 from the Spanish slave who has before been 
 mentioned, and who was himself in the action, 
 upon the side of the Adrialla. The Sheick and 
 council were absent from Wadinoon seven days 
 upon this business. 
 
 I never knew the public authority interfere to 
 enforce the collection of debts ; leaving it to 
 creditors to obtain satisfaction in their own way ; 
 which is generally done by taking off the blan- 
 ket, &c. from the back of a debtor without cere- 
 mony, if he refuses payment. Difficulties but 
 rarely occur from this source, and I never saw 
 any character, in any part of Africa, that exer- 
 cised the functions of a lawyer. 
 
 The punishment for offences and breaches of 
 the peace is, by imposing a fine. I never saw 
 any corporal punishment inflicted for any of- 
 fence. A part of the fine is paid to the witness- 
 es, upon the conviction of the offender. 
 
 Marriage is effected by the parents of the par- 
 ties intending to join in wedlock. Private in- 
 terviews ace never permitted between the par- 
 ties, until after the marriage rites are solemni- 
 zed. The parents of the bride furnish the ne- 
 cessary household furniture, and the groom must
 
 220 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. , 
 
 furnish a house to put that and his bride in. A 
 feast of keskoosoo, el-ham, and fruits, is always 
 given at a marriage, and it is always conclu- 
 ded with a dance. The Mahommedan priest 
 who marries them, receives a reward proportion 
 ate to the wealth of the groom. 
 
 At the birth of a child, a feast is also given to 
 the connections of the parents of it; and if it be- 
 longs to the Sheick, or to a principal Arab, the 
 feast is splendid, and numerously attended. The 
 different sexes upon these, as well as upon all 
 other occasions, feast in different apartments, 
 and often upon different days. 
 
 The interment of the dead is also attended 
 with a feast. There being but a little over six 
 hundred inhabitants of all kinds at Wadinoon. 
 but three or four deaths happened while I was 
 there. One was that of Braham Builidlalrs (the 
 Sheick's) mother. A great quantity of keskoosoo 
 was made upon this occasion, in which all the 
 female slaves assisted ; and the feast was wholly 
 confined to the female sex. In the grave yard, 
 is a building of two apartments for the different 
 sexes to perform religious ceremonies in. There 
 are a number of burying grounds in the vicinity 
 of Wadinoon, and great numbers of monuments 
 of rough stones standing in the ground, without 
 any inscriptions upon them. This would induce 
 a foreigner to conclude, that this place was for- 
 merly much larger than it was in 1816. 
 
 At about a mile distant from the town, is a na- 
 tural, circular mound of a quarter of a mile dia- 
 meter, and very regular. It rises as many as 
 seventy-five feet above the surface of the valley. 
 Near the tep of it, is a cfrcu! ir brush fence, with-
 
 KOBBINS' JOURNAL. 221 
 
 in which was formerly interred a saint, whom the 
 natives called Sidi Timah. He was esteemed a 
 prophet, and was supposed to possess the pow- 
 er of healing diseases. His memory is cherish- 
 ed with the wiost solemn veneration. The na- 
 tives never pass this mound without performing- 
 religious ceremonies, facing inwards. They an- 
 nually celebrate the day of his death, cooking 
 all kinds of food within the fence, and pouring it 
 upon the ground, or leaving it in the pots. With- 
 in the fence, is an immense number of them, 
 some having the appearance of great antiquity. 
 Whatever is deposited within this fence, is al- 
 ways entirely secure. The natives continue to 
 pray to this saint, and believe that he still heals 
 their diseases by his divine power. I have often 
 seen the natives, when sick, proceed with the 
 most solemn devotion, to this mound, and pray 
 to Sidi Timah. At the base of it are three vaults, 
 in which some great characters have been inter- 
 red. The natives say, that the ghost of an aged 
 female, buried at a tittle distance, rises often in 
 the night season and walks around the ashes of 
 Sidi Timah. Single graves are often seen with 
 large heaps of brush and stones placed upon the 
 top. Between the town and this mound, J saw 
 the ruins of an ancient wall, enclosing a conside- 
 rable piece of ground, now covered with bushes, 
 which the natives told me was in past ages oc- 
 cupied by the cn-sahrau. Similar places are seen 
 in other parts of the country near Wadinoon. 
 Modesty requires that I should leave the privi- 
 lege of conjecturing to the reader. 
 
 There are at Wadinoon no professors of medi- 
 N 2
 
 322 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 cine ; but all the inhabitants have a mode oi re- 
 lieving their own pains and those that are sick, 
 peculiar to themselves. They administer a bit- 
 ter weed for internal complaints. For rheuma- 
 tism, cramps, &c. the patient lies down upon the 
 belly, and a man jumps up and down upon his 
 back. This is the modus operandi, and whether 
 it produces relief secundum artem, I know not ; but 
 cures are effected in this way. Tar and grease 
 are applied to flesh wounds. The headache is 
 cured by pinching the forehead and temples with 
 the fingers, or biting them with the teeth. 
 
 The amusements of the men at Wadinoon con- 
 sist in training and riding horses, which they do 
 with the greatest skill and elegance. Shooting 
 at a mark is an amusement common to every one. 
 and some fire with admirable accuracy. Cast- 
 ing a single stone at a number of small ones, 
 standing loosely upon the ground, is often prac 
 tised. They often throw in a murzoon each, a 
 silver piece of two cents value, and the most ski) 
 ml ones get the whole. — Dancing is the onh 
 amusement in which the sexes unite. The mu- 
 sic is made upon a tambarine, not unlike those of- 
 ten seen in N. England. The natives are pas- 
 sionately fond of music; and however wretched 
 it is, it almost captivates them. A Moor, from 
 Fez, arrived while I was at Wadinoon, with a 
 rude fiddle, which, so far from " discoursing mosf 
 eloquent music" would make a hearer recollect 
 Burns' description of a " Scotch scraper, whost 
 tones imitated the dying agonies of a soiv under th< 
 hands of the butcher." He however received many 
 presents, and went off well loaded. By the use 
 of the musket, as an amusement, the Arabs ae~
 
 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 223 
 
 quire all the knowledge of the manual exercise 
 they possess ; there being no such thing as in- 
 struction in this, or in military maneuvering. 
 
 About the middle of October 18 J 6, Porter re- 
 ceived a letter from Mr. Willshire dated the 8th 
 of that month, which 1 read. It informed him 
 that the terms of his ransom were agreed upon 
 between him, and his (Porters) master, who sent 
 to his wife, by a messenger, to send Porter im- 
 mediately to Mogadore. Bel Cossir.i discovered 
 that Porter had been ransomed, and felt anxious 
 to obtain a large ransom for me. I went with 
 him to the house of Porter's master, having writ- 
 ten a hasty line to Mr. Willshire, in relation to 
 my own situation, which I gave to Porter. Por- 
 ter left Wadinoon with the messenger, and I re- 
 turned to my slavery with little hopes of being 
 ransomed, as Bel Cossim was determined to hold 
 me, until he could obtain an exorbitant sum for 
 my liberation. This letter to Mr. Willshire was 
 never answered ; nor did I ever receive any an- 
 swer to those I before had written, nor to those 
 I afterwards wrote. I feel the utmost assurance, 
 that that excellent man had the best reasons for 
 his silence, as he afterwards deeply interested 
 himself in my discharge. My master Bel Cossim 
 had been the owner of many Christian slaves, 
 and purchasing them at a low rate, and demand- 
 ing a great sum for their ransom, was one of the 
 great sources of his great wealth, I was now the 
 only Christian slave in Wadinoon, except Davis, 
 who has been mentioned as one of the crew of 
 the prize ship that was wrecked in May 1816. 
 
 During the whole of the month of November, 
 and a port of December, I was constantly em-
 
 224 BOBBINS' JOUBNAL. 
 
 ployed in building a mud wall around the exten- 
 sive gardens of Bel Cossim. It was nearly com- 
 pleted, when the rainy season commenced ; and 
 the hard labor of six weeks was demolished in a 
 day. 
 
 In the month of December a serious quarrel 
 commenced between the town of Wadinoon and 
 Akkadia* a town occupied by the Shilluh, about 
 fifteen miles to the north, in the same valley in 
 which Wadinoon is situated. The quarrel was 
 occasioned by some injury a Shilluk woman had 
 sustained from my master Bel Cossim, Brahim 
 Abdallab his brother, or Hamada his son. The 
 two towns espoused the cause of their own people. 
 Wadinoon was in perpetual alarm from this time, 
 until I left it, in the February afterwards. The 
 Shilluh were determined, if possible, to have the 
 blood of Bel Cossim or Hamada. No regular 
 warfare was carried on between the parties ; but 
 constant depredations were committed by each. 
 The ordinary business of farming could not be 
 prosecuted by individuals singly, but they went 
 out in large parties to cultivate the land, each 
 one being armed with a musket. Night alarms 
 were incessant. My master kept an armed man 
 in his battlement, and was in constant fear of his 
 life. He acted as if guilt preyed upon him ; and 
 shewed by his conduct that " the wicked flee when 
 no man pursueth." He was universally detested, 
 even by his own neighbors; and nothing but 
 the security which wealth often affords to a yil- 
 lanous wretch, preserved him from assassination 
 in his own iiouse. 
 
 From the 15th of December the rainy season 
 continued for five days and nights, and there
 
 ROBBINS* JOURNAL. 225 
 
 could hardly be said to have been for that time 
 a cessation. From the north, and the south, the 
 water poured down in torrents from the two 
 ranges of mountains before described, into the 
 valley which, as mentioned, is six miles in width, 
 diminishing as it stretches toward the Atlas 
 mountains. From these mountains, for a great 
 dis^nce, and from an immense height, the rivers 
 of water, suddenly created by the rain, all bent 
 (heir course to the eastern boundary of this great 
 valley. The smaller valleys all discharged their 
 watery contents into it. In a short time, the 
 great valley began to present a river of shallow 
 water six miles in width, excepting where the 
 adjoining mountains projected into it. Upon 
 these projections, which might now be called 
 promontories, the numerous v/llages or towns 
 were situated. The water continued to rise for 
 six days, until the whole valley, from the* Atlas 
 mountains to Wadinoon, and from thence south- 
 west to the sea, a distance probably of one hun- 
 dred and fifty miles, was covered with water 
 from five to eight feet in depth. Wadinoon was 
 entirely surrounded with the flood, and upon the 
 south side of the valley, this immense body of 
 water passed with a considerable current. In 
 ihrce days after the rain ceased, the valley was 
 nearly emptied of water. For a number of days, 
 accounts were constantly received of disasters. 
 Numerous camels, and great quantities of goods 
 and grain were destroyed ; and many lives were 
 lost. Wadinoon suffered but a little, from its 
 elevated situation, although some gardens situ- 
 ated low in the valley wei;e injured, and many 
 walls of the houses and the gardens sustained
 
 226 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 injury from the long continuance of the rain. 
 From appearances in the neighborhood of Wa- 
 dinoon, it must formerly have suffered severely, 
 either from floods or enemies, as there are great 
 numbers of walls in ruins. 
 
 During the rain, I was almost constantly ex- 
 posed to it, in securing tobacco, digging drains 
 to carry off water, and in other services. S^tne 
 of "the small rooms were partially demolished ; 
 and, during the rain, an ancient wall, standing 
 within the main walls of Bel Cossim's house, fell 
 with a tremendous crash into the inner yard. 
 Fortunately, no man or beast was situated with- 
 in its destructive reach. 
 
 As soon as the waters had subsided from the 
 face of the earth, the ploughing commenced. 
 The ground in this valley is never ploughed in 
 the dry scasofi ; as it would be useless to put seed 
 into it during the continuance of it. It is impos- 
 sible to imagine a scene of greater activity and 
 animation than this valley presented. From the 
 Sheick to the black steve — from the camel of 
 twenty-five hands in height, to the most diminu- 
 tive mule — Moors, Arabs, Arrabbere Shilluhs, 
 Christian and African slaves, were all in motion. 
 Zahara poured in her hordes of famished Ish- 
 maelites, and the long valley disgorged her con- 
 tents of surfeited merchants. At the dawn of 
 day, Mahomet was worshipped ; and the keskoo- 
 soo was swallowed with despatch. The beasts 
 were geared to the plough, and, followed by men. 
 were hastily driven to the adjoining fields. From 
 the rising to the setting sun, they both travelled 
 as steadily as that scorching luminar} r ; and ne- 
 ver ceased labor, until darkness rendered it im-
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 227 
 
 practicable. The keskoosoo was again eaten, and 
 the exhausted, fatigued, and despairing slave 
 was permitted, for a season, to repose. This 
 service I was compelled, incessantly, to perform 
 for forty days. An unusual quantity of ground 
 was ploughed this season, as many fields were 
 cleared of bushes which must have been of six 
 year's growth. Some of the oldest people told 
 me they never knew so much ploughed. 
 
 The soil, within this valley, when a sufficient 
 quantity of rain falls, is astonishingly fertile. It 
 is of a dark rich color ; has but few stones and 
 is easily cultivated. The grain is sowed before 
 it is ploughed, and one ploughing serves for the 
 whole. The plough is of the most simple con- 
 struction. It consists of a small, crooked piece 
 of hard wood, forming a knee. The perpen- 
 dicular part of it makes the handle ; the hori- 
 zontal part, the bottom of the plough ; the for- 
 ward end of that is shod, or pointed with iron ; 
 the beam is mortised into the handle, in such a 
 manner, as to give the bottom a proper pitch, 
 depending upon the angle the knee makes. It 
 is very light, and may be carried, without diffi- 
 culty, in one hand. The people plough with 
 every species of animals in their possession — 
 camels, horses, asses, mules, and cows. Each 
 one drives his own beast, and holds his own 
 plough. The camel is guided by a single rein, 
 fastened by a ring into one of its nostrils. A man 
 and beast will generally plough an acre in a day. 
 While the last fields were ploughing, those first 
 ploughed, had barley twenty inches high. 
 
 As the grain came up, the flights of locusts be- 
 gan to infest the country. They came from the
 
 228 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. / 
 
 southeast Without a view of one of these flights. 
 a man can have no idea of the horror excited 
 upon their approach. When they are above the 
 spectator, in the atmosphere, they almost ob- 
 scure the sun — -when they light upon the vege- 
 tables on the earth, they completely cover them, 
 and, in a very few minutes, devour them. I have 
 before described the manner of gathering and 
 cooking these insects upon the desert. They 
 are sometimes boiled at Wadinoon for food for 
 men and beasts. Early in the morning, before 
 they begin to fly, I have known a bushel and a 
 half gathered from a bush six feet high. They 
 cover them as completely as a swarm of bees 
 do the bough upon which they light. The locust 
 of Africa more nearly resembles the large grass- 
 hopper of N. England than any other insect. 
 The body is of a reddish brown color, about two 
 inches in length, and a quarter of an inch through. 
 From the head to the end of the wings is nearly 
 three inches. When devouring vegetation, they 
 make a noise similar to small pigs eating graiii. 
 Bel Cossim had five acres of guinea corn totally 
 destroyed, while some fields near were untouch- 
 ed. 
 
 Upon the 5th of February, 1817, the great 
 Moloode was holden at Ahktu about an hundred 
 miles east of Wadinoon. These, as I learned, 
 are annually held in different parts of the coun- 
 try. It is a sort of wholesale fair, and the natives, 
 by wholesale, attend them. Wadinoon was al- 
 most divested of male inhabitants, leaving the 
 female ishmaelites to manage affairs at home. I 
 urged Bel Cossim. to carry me there and sell me ; 
 but he declined. He however took a letter from
 
 KOBBINS' JOURNAL. 229 
 
 me directed to Mr. Wiltshire, which I afterwards 
 found at a Jew's house among the Shilluh. 
 
 After the ploughing was through, the people 
 were employed in digging into the earth Mutto- 
 morahs, to contain the grain when harvested, 
 They are dug into stone, or earth and shelving 
 rocks united as hard as stone. A circular hole, 
 of four feet diameter, is dug until it comes to a 
 greyish slate stone. x\nother round hole is then 
 begun, of one foot and a half diameter at the top. 
 and as it is dug into the stone, is constantly wi- 
 dened. By these means, the hole becomes large 
 enough to let the body into it, and there to con- 
 tinue to peck up the stone, and pass the frag- 
 ments out of the hole at the top. Some of these 
 are dug large enough to contain from three to 
 five hundred bushels. When the grain is put in. 
 the small hole is covered with a flat stone, and 
 the large one filled even with the surface of the 
 ground, securing the grain from the weather, and 
 concealing it from thieves. These vaults are 
 made to preserve grain for a time of famine. 
 Bel Cossim had numbers of these vaults, and 
 shewed me grain taken from them which had 
 remained in them three years, in the soundest 
 possible state. I was employed in digging one 
 of these muttomorahs, in the lowest state of de- 
 jection, expecting to be taken from it, only to be 
 compelled to assist in securing the immense 
 fields of Bel Cossim's grain, when a cheering 
 prospect of redemption burst upon me, like the 
 light of the sun, after the cheerless gloom of a 
 Lapland winter. 
 
 U
 
 230 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 CHAP. XXI. 
 
 Manuscript i» English — author purchased by a Shilluh — leaves 
 Wadinoon — dangerous travelling —distant view of Santa Cruz 
 — monuments — -EVajjah Mahomet — letter and express sent to 
 Mogadon- The Shilluhs— productions of their country — story 
 of the Spaniard — message from Mogadore — passport to thai 
 place. 
 
 UPON the 16th day of February, 1817, as I 
 was at the market in Wadinoon, where 1 saw 
 Davis, and also Brown, who had arrived in De- 
 cember, a Shilluh presented to me a piece of" 
 manuscript, asking me if the language was Ingle- 
 sis? I immediately saw that it was, and read it. It 
 was headed "Mogadon" but was not dated. The 
 substance of it was in very nearly this language. 
 *' To any Christian Slave — " You are requested to 
 sign this paper at the bottom, with your name ; arid 
 mention thi name of the vessel in which you were 
 wrecked — the place where, and the time when, and of 
 what nation you are ; and return it to the one who 
 offers it to you." The paper had no signature, 
 and was written in an elegant hand. My master 
 was eyeing me with real Arab sagacity. I press- 
 ed the Shilluh to explain — he looked at Bel Cos- 
 sim, remained mute a minute, and discovered 
 the arch cunning of his tribe. He {hen loudly 
 said, in Arab, " I shall go in the morning to Moga 
 dor e, and will carry a letter for you" and immedi- 
 ately walked hastily off to the fair. Bel Cossim 
 also went off, and left me to reflect upon this 
 strange interview. Hope and despair alternate- 
 ly prevailed in my mind. I had before conclu- 
 ded that my fate was fixed for life; and my Ma- 
 hommedan acquaintance at Wadinoon, which
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 231 
 
 embraced almost every male Arab and Moor in 
 the place, had often urged me to espouse the 
 faith of a good Mussulman — relieve myself from 
 slavery — take an Ishmaelitish wife, and become 
 great. I cannot tell what increasing misery 
 might have driven me to; but I was determined 
 to resist this apostacy to the last. Upon the 
 next morning, (17th) the Shilluh with two com- 
 panions, all mounted upon mules, called early 
 at the house of Bel Cossim. He asked me if mv 
 letter was ready, and appeared to be in the 
 greatest possible haste. I ran i:> to entreat my 
 master for a piece of paper and a reed to write 
 with. He immediately came out and spoke with 
 the Shilluh. They began an earnest conversa- 
 tion in the Shilluh tongue, which I did not fully 
 understand ; but soon learned from some Arabic 
 words used, that Bel Cossim demanded two 
 hundred dollars for my ransom, and that the 
 Shilluh offered one hundred and fifty. My mas- 
 ter declared that the money was sent from the 
 Consul at Mogadore for my ransom — the Shilluh 
 denied it: said he wanted me for his own slave, 
 and was about departing. Bel Cossim came 
 down to one hundred and seventy-five dollars, 
 and the Shilluh hastily rode off! The pains of 
 death itself could not exceed my distress. My 
 master noticed my agony, and very coolly said, 
 ;i never mind if. he ivill soon be back — he has got the 
 money." I did not allow myself to hope it ; but 
 very soon saw the Shilluh returning. The mo- 
 ney was paid — f took the last mess of keskoosoo 
 under the walls of Bel Cossim Abdallatis house, 
 and left it for ever. We had not proceeded 
 more than a mile, before the Shilluh hastily re
 
 232 BOBBINS' JOUBNAL. 
 
 tamed back — made a bargain with the master 
 of the Spaniard frequently mentioned, and sent 
 off an Arab with a mule after him to the BHed 
 Mouessa AU. At night the Spaniard arrived at 
 Wadinoon. As to Brown and Davis the Shi Huh 
 declared them to be uzmuntoots (pirates) and 
 would not buy them. They joined in writing a 
 letter to Mr. Wiilshire which the Shilluh took. 
 During the absence of the Arab who went after 
 the Spaniard, 1 went about the town with Davis 
 and Brown, joining with them in lamentations 
 that they were still to remain in slavery. 1 felt 
 by no means certain concerning myself. I was 
 still the property of an Ishmaelite, and still sub- 
 ject to the capricious whims of that indescriba- 
 ble race of creatures; I however had animoting 
 hopes. During the day, I never entered the 
 walls of Bel Cossim's house, although urged to 
 go in and eat. I kept in view of my Shilluh mas- 
 ter. About 8 o'clock in the evening, the Shilluh. 
 with three companions, the Spaniard and myself 
 set off from the • recti town of Wadinoon, which I 
 have minutely and faithfully described, on our 
 way toward the B^ledSidi ilcsham. At about ten 
 miles distance, which we travelled rapidly in the 
 dark, over stones and bushes, we arrived at a 
 Douar of tents — refreshed ourselves with laisk 
 and zate — took a little rest and again started. 
 The Shilluh presented me and the Spaniard, a 
 new pair of Moorish slippers each. The natives 
 were mounted and we were on foot, running all 
 night. As we were passing the town of Akkadicu 
 with which Wad' noon was still at war, and in the 
 country oiSidi Hcsham the great bandit, we were 
 »n constant apprehension of being murdered and
 
 ROBBIJN'S' JOURNAL. 233 
 
 robbed. In the night, we passed a narrow defile 
 leading through the Atlas mountains, which of 
 course, I cannot describe. We heard the dis- 
 tant hooting of the natives and the trampling of 
 horses. We travelled with the utmost caution. 
 Frequently we were passed by mounted Arabs, 
 and carefully concealed ourselves. I knew it to 
 be the object of Stdi Hesham to get into his pos- 
 session all the Christian slaves he possibly could, 
 in order to extort an enormous ransom from the 
 Christian powers. I learned from Mr. Wiltshire, 
 that the ransom of the crew of the British brig 
 Surprise, which I have before mentioned as be- 
 ing in his possession, only seventeen in number, 
 amounted to five thousand dollars, besides ex- 
 penses and presents to a large amount. 
 
 Upon the next morning, (18th) the Shilluh 
 barely stopped to sulk. Our course from Wadi- 
 noon thus far had been about E. N. E. During 
 this dav we bore a little more to the northward; 
 and at about 10,A.M, stopped at the house of one 
 of the Shilluh, and were comfortably refreshed. 
 We were now in the country of the Shilluh, a 
 race included among the Berrebbers. This coun- 
 try, from the best accounts I could obtain, 
 extends from Mogadore. south-westward to the 
 borders of Sidi Hesham's dominions, and from 
 the western coast of Africa to the eastern limits 
 of the western termination of the Atlas moun- 
 tains. We continued to travel gradually until 
 2 P. M. when we came to a market ; stopped a 
 short time ; ate a few dates, and proceeded on 
 our journey, still passing branches of the Atlas 
 mountains. At nearly sun-set we came into view 
 
 U2
 
 234 ROBBINS' JOURNAL, 
 
 of an extensive level country. It was one of the 
 grandest views imaginable. Before we descen- 
 ded, we could extend the eye across this im- 
 mense and truly delightful country, and catch a 
 distant glimpse of the range of mountains run- 
 ning from Santa Cruz, eastward, to the Atlas 
 mountains. My Shilluh master exclaimed, " Ria. 
 Robbinis ! shnfe Santa Cruz" — There, Robbins ! see 
 Santa Cruz. I should degrade my feelings if I 
 attempted to describe them. As we passed along 
 we often saw clusters of well built mud and 
 stone houses, and single ones scattered along 
 through the whole country. Extensive barley 
 fields were constantly in sight, some of which 
 shewed a gloomy track of desolation left through 
 them by the recent passage of a flight of locusts. 
 Date trees, fig trees, argan and olive trees : 
 prickly pears, &c. were almost constantly in 
 sight, although the date tree is not so common 
 here as to the eastward of the Atlas mountains. 
 At about nine in the evening, we put up at the 
 house of an acquaintance of the Shilluh. I found 
 the worship precisely the same as I had noticed 
 it, in every part of Africa I had seen. 
 
 The next morning, (3 9th) by 2 o'clock, we 
 were again upon our journey. The Shilluh ap- 
 peared extremely anxious to expedite the jour- 
 ney. My slippers were worn through, and I was 
 most excessively fatigued. But the thoughts of 
 travelling toward the desired regions of civiliza- 
 tion made me forget that fatigue, which would 
 otherwise have been insupportable. Before 
 sun-rise, after sulk was performed, the compan- 
 ions of the Shilluh left him. The Spaniard and 
 1 now became the objects of his particular atten
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL 23£» 
 
 tion. We passed a great number of monuments, 
 the surfaces of which were composed of clay, 
 whitewashed, having, at a little distance, the 
 appearance of marble. Some were in the shape 
 of an obelisk, and others were carried up square. 
 We travelled sol hastily, that I could not give 
 them a particular examination. The ShilluL 
 pointed out one that was erected in honour of 
 Sidi Hamet a Mouesa, whom he mentioned with 
 ^reat veneration. When passing near them the 
 Shilluh would face them, and repeat over some 
 of the ritual, as I concluded, not having yet suf- 
 ficiently learned the ShiUuh language to under- 
 stand him. At about sunrise we came to a town 
 nearly as large as Wadinoon. We passed 
 through it, and near the gardens which were 
 constructed like those in that place. I did not 
 learn the name of the town, as we made no stop. 
 Upon the east of the town, and near to it, we 
 passed a very considerable stream of pure wa- 
 ter, running from the S. E. and to the N. W. and 
 N. The gardens were near its banks, which 
 were thickly lined with date trees ; but it was 
 past their bearing season at this place. The 
 water was let into the gardens, from a pond, 
 formed by a dam across the stream above the 
 town;. This stream the natives called El-wad 
 Sihlcm. It was about six rods in width, and. 
 where we passed it, so shallow that we forded 
 it on foot. After passing the stream, we con- 
 tinued in a N. E. direction, and soon ascended 
 and descended a considerable hill, and came 
 again into the level country which was still fer- 
 tile, but was suffering from drought. At nine 
 o'clock, we came to a small village, called by
 
 236 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 the natives Widnah, and stopped for a short time. 
 From this village, might be seen many others, 
 all of which appeared to be in a flourishing con- 
 dition. This level country extended far to the 
 N. W. being bounded upon the S. E. by the At- 
 las mountains, branches of which frequently 
 stretched some distance into it, leaving vallies 
 between them. After breakfast, we joined a 
 number of the inhabitants, and went to a market, 
 which is called soag. The markets from Wadi- 
 noon to Santa Cruz are so arranged, being hol- 
 den upon different days in the week, that travel- 
 lers can every day be accommodated with an 
 open market. The description of the markets 
 and fairs at Wadinoon will, with little variation, 
 apply to all that are established through this 
 range of country. One article, however, which 
 is a principal one at that place, is never seen 
 among the Shiliuh — tobacco ; this being consider- 
 ed among them as a detestable weed, and the 
 use of it as a transgression. At these markets, 
 or soags, I saw great numbers of Jews, being the 
 first I had seen since they were prohibited from 
 trading at Wadinoon. We crossed a stream, 
 more rapid in its current, and greater in its 
 depth, than the one last mentioned, and continu- 
 ed our course to the eastward. Before sun-set 
 we reached a very beautiful level country, with 
 scattered houses covering a great extent of it. 
 It was covered with extensive barley fields, and 
 the usual fruit trees common to the Shiliuh 
 country. This was the residence of my Shiliuh 
 master. He conducted me, and my Spanish 
 companion, to the mansion of ETajjah Mahomet. 
 who was called by the natives, Sharif. Every
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 237 
 
 object around us had the appearance of wealth 
 and comfort. We were shewed into a very good 
 apartment, and a repast of dried figs was spread 
 before us. EVajjah Mahomet informed us, that he 
 had sent the ransom money to Wadinoon for us, 
 that he would, in the morning, furnish us with 
 paper to write on to Sweakrah (Mogadore) to the 
 Contz, (consul ;) and, as soon as we received an 
 answer, we should immediately start for that 
 place : and, that if we wished, he would furnish 
 us with mules to ride upon. For supper, we had 
 boiled eggs, khobs, and, for the first time in Afri- 
 ca, a cup of tea. 
 
 The distance from Wadinoon to this place, to 
 which the natives gave no particular name that 
 I can remember, is about one hundred and thir- 
 ty miles, in the course we travelled ; the gene- 
 ral course being just about N. E. We travelled 
 with great rapidity for footmen, the Spaniard and 
 I having travelled it without mules, in forty-five 
 hours. 
 
 The next morning, the 20th of February, 1817. 
 before we arose, we were served with tea, el ham,, 
 arid keskoosoo, in our apartment. We soon walk- 
 ed out with EVajjah Mahomet to the house of a 
 Jew, where we were treated with carmoosc, bran- 
 dy. I there wrote a letter for myself to Mr. Will- 
 slure, and another for the Spaniard to the Span- 
 ish Consul at Mogadore. Our protector imme- 
 diately despatched an express, on foot, with the 
 letters. Astonishing to relate, he returned at the 
 end of seven days. The Jews had here a small 
 manufactory for making knives, scimitars, scab- 
 bards, breast-plates, ear-rings, and all the varie- 
 ty of trinkets in demand among the natives.
 
 238 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 There were many of these children of Israel in 
 this place, and, as in all others, despised and 
 abused ; although they were the largest dealers 
 in the place. We remained at this place until 
 the 16th of March, and were uniformly treated 
 by the good EVajjah Mahomet with the utmost 
 kindness. In his house, was an apartment set 
 apart for worship, and used for no other pur- 
 pose. Whenever a stranger arrived he inquired 
 for the :/», or place of worship, and water to 
 prepare for the performance of religious rites 
 This was immediately furnished, and they re 
 tired to their devotions. Every scattering house 
 has such a closet for prayer, but in villages there 
 is a sham common to all. El'ajjah Mahomet uni- 
 formly expressed the utmost indignation against 
 the Wiled D'leim, and spoke in wrath of Bel 
 Cossim. 
 
 I found the Jews in this part of the country, in 
 making their bills and accounts, make use of the 
 ten digits precisely like those in use here. Out 
 bill was made in this manner; but I never, at 
 Wadinoon, nor in any other place, saw them used 
 by the natives. They write their numbers from 
 right to left, their left hand figure being always 
 the unit. 
 
 I was sensibly struck with the great superiority 
 of the Shilkih, over all the other races of Maho- 
 metans in Africa. They were mild and friendly 
 in their dispositions, and seemed to want nothing 
 but the benign influence of Christianity, to ren- 
 der them a most estimable race of men. They 
 are lighter in their complexion than the Arabs, 
 and speak a language so different, that they can- 
 not understand each other.
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 239 
 
 The country of the Shilluh is under the do- 
 minion of the Emperor of Morocco. Two tax- 
 gatherers from Fez, which also belongs to the 
 Emperor, were here, and spent a day at EFajjah 
 Mahomet'' s house with me, and I conversed with 
 perfect ease with them. They exercised great 
 authority, and if the least hesitation was shewn 
 in paying the required tribute, the Moorish mus- 
 ket and cutlass would soon enforce it. I saw a 
 blanket forced from a native who was either un- 
 able or unwilling to pay his quota. They told 
 me, upon inquiry, that the money was going to 
 the Sooltaun, and that it was gathered yearly. 
 
 The productions of this delightful country are, 
 horned cattle, some sheep, and goats, horses, 
 asses, mules, and a few male camels for burthen. 
 Grain and fruits are produced in abundance. 
 Almonds, honey, peach-meats, and wax are ar- 
 ticles of trade. Noose, a moss taken from trees, 
 is in great demand for colouring morocco leather, 
 and great quantities of it are transported to Mo- 
 gadore. Argan trees abound every where in this 
 part of the continent. 
 
 I had not opportunity to learn particularly 
 concerning the mines of different ores in the At- 
 las mountains, which make the southern boun- 
 dary of the Shilluh country ; but at the Jews' 
 manufactory, I saw a mountaineer offer to a Jew 
 a lump of ore which he pronounced copper. 
 The native who brought it said he got it out of 
 a hole so deep that the end could not be disco- 
 vered; and that water was constantly running 
 down k) it. I was requested to examine it, as 
 the natives suppose every en sahrau acquainted 
 with the precious metals. As I am ignorant of
 
 240 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 mineralogy, my opinion would settle nothing 
 upon the question ; but I took it to be copper. 
 The mountaineer declared it to be gold. From 
 hearing it frequently mentioned at Wadinoon. 
 and being urged by Bel Cossim to go to work 
 upon ore, which he would shew me, no doubt 
 remains upon my mind but that ore abounds in 
 this part of Africa. 
 
 During my stay in the Shilluh country, I in- 
 creased my acquaintance with the Spaniard, and 
 had from him, in the Arabic language, a history 
 of his slavery with the Arabs. He told me he 
 had been upon the desert eight years: that he 
 belonged to a Spanish privateer, and was upon 
 a cruise for French vessels in 1809, off the wes- 
 tern coast of Africa ; that the water of the ves- 
 sel was nearly expended, and that he, and three 
 others of the crew, were sent ashore, in the boat, 
 for water, and that they were all captivated by 
 the Arabs. He said he was among the blacks in 
 the southern part of the continent, and was there 
 for some time, upon the banks of a river, with 
 fertile and cultivated land, having horned cattle 
 upon it. He said he knew not the fate of two of 
 his companions ; but one of them we found upon 
 our arrival at Mogadore. Upon being presented 
 to the Spanish Consul, he could not speak his 
 native tongue, and to me he always appeared as 
 a native of Africa, and was often, by the Arabs, 
 mistaken for such. His brief story, related to 
 me, induced a belief in my mind of its accuracy. 
 
 While we remained at EVajjah Jllahomcfs, he 
 went to the governor at Terudant to obtain a pass- 
 port for us to Mogadore, as without it we could 
 not pass the town of Santa Cruz. He also car
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 241 
 
 pied a letter from the governor to Sidi Hesham. 
 and obtained authority of some kind from him 
 He informed us, that all this was indispensably 
 necessary, to sec are a safe passage to Mogadore. 
 The messenger sent to Mogadore brought back 
 a letter in Arabic, to our protector, and a present 
 of a loaf of sugar. He informed us that all ne- 
 cessary arrangements were made, and that in a 
 short time the preparations of food, &c. for our 
 journey would be completed. 
 
 CHAP. XXII. 
 
 Departure with EVajjah Mahomet — El-wad Sta — sand hills — 
 the ocean — Atlas mountains — arrival at Santa Cruz — descrip 
 Hon of that place— passage over a mountain — a contrast — ro 
 mantic view — cottage in a forest — dogs — view of Mogadi re- 
 reception by Mr. Willshire — admission into his house — cheer 
 ing American flag. 
 
 UPON the 7th, the food, consisting oikhobs. 
 butter, and barley meal, was packed ready io 
 transportation ; and, at one o'clock, A. M. upon 
 the 8th, the Spaniard and I, mounted upon one- 
 mule, and EPojjah Mahomet and a boy upon an- 
 other, started upon our journey. Our hearts 
 were dilated with gratitude towards EVajjah Ma- 
 homet, and Mr. Willshire, and thankfulness to 
 heaven, and we directed our course N. N. W. to- 
 ward Santa Cruz. At about 8, A. M. we forded 
 the largest stream I had yet seen in Africa, be- 
 ing, I judged, fifteen rods in width. The native* 
 called this river El-wad Sta. We took a wind- 
 ing course, to avoid the immense sand hillo 
 which lay between us and the sea. These lay 
 in great drifts, like snow banks. I saw the up- 
 
 X
 
 242 H03BINS* JOURNAL. 
 
 permost boughs of numerous fig-trees, just above 
 the sand drifts. This was about twenty miles 
 from the sea. How long these sand hills have 
 been forming, must be left to conjecture ; but 
 from the circumstance of seeing the tops of trees, 
 a traveller would be led to suppose that they 
 are rapidly extending into the country. After 
 passing these, we changed our course to the N. 
 W. being in sight of Santa Cruz, and, what was 
 to me the most animating sight, the ocean. My 
 Spanish companion was frantic with joy. He 
 leaped up ; threw out his hands ; exclaiming, 
 "Jogal ioga ! via el Bahar, ria el Bahar. This 
 was the first time I had seen the ocean since De- 
 cember, 1815. From this point the Atlas moun- 
 tains, lying upon our right, appeared in all their 
 grandeur. Their tops, rising in succession one 
 atter another, were covered with snow. The 
 rays of the sun, striking upon them, gave them 
 the most brilliant appearance. We reached 
 Santa Cruz at 3, P. M. The passport was offer- 
 ed at the fort — a present of henneh was made to 
 the commander, and after this we were permit- 
 ted to enter the lower town. It is a town com- 
 pactly built of stone, and walled. The main 
 street runs through the town from one gate to the 
 other. Being built upon the side of a hill, one 
 street rises above another, and the houses, be- 
 ing low, the roofs in the next street below the 
 spectator may be seen. There is another settle- 
 ment called the upper town, surrounded by a 
 v/»rv high wall. The land upon which the place 
 stands is very elevated, rising, I should judge, as 
 many as twelve hundred feet above the level o 
 the sea. This wall has the appearance of a for-
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 243 
 
 tress, being filled with port-holes. The dwell- 
 ing-houses are all built within it. I was inform- 
 ed by the Moors that there was a mine within 
 tiic walls of this place, but that nobody but an 
 en-sahrau dare descend it. From the lower town-, 
 the passage to the upper one is by a winding 
 road around the hill, which is difficult of ascent. 
 The prospect from this place is extensive and 
 grand. Situated high upon the commencement 
 of the range of mountains, extending from this 
 place east to the Atlas mountains, the spectator 
 has a view of the whole range and also of the 
 Atlas. This is a place of the greatest importance, 
 it being the key to the dominions of the emperor 
 of Morocco, and the only passage from the wes- 
 tern coast of Africa into that empire, excepting 
 Terudant, which is situated about ninety miles to 
 the east of Santa Cruz, which is called by the 
 natives dgadeer. Thisplace was formerly hold- 
 en by the Portuguese. The Moors informed me 
 •hat the cn-sahrau (Christians) settled it, built the 
 fortress, and cultivated the adjoining country ; 
 lhat the Moors, taking advantage of a long 
 drought and distressing famine, besieged fhe 
 place, and compelled them to abandon it; and 
 ♦hat the emperor of Morocco has ever since held 
 possession of it himself. A few cannon still re- 
 main, and a few are sufficient to defend it against 
 ihe encroachments of the Arabs, who, notwith- 
 standing their power upon the desert, are, from 
 iheir mode of warfare, weakness itself, compared 
 with the power arising from modern tactics. 
 The bay before the town is very open, and fur- 
 nishes but a poor harbour for the protection oi 
 ^hipping. There were fifteen or twenty open
 
 244 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 fishing boats in the bay, and I saw two from 
 which the Moors were landing fish ; but had no 
 opportunity to give them an examination. 
 
 Upon the 9th, we passed the north gate of the 
 town at sun-rise, upon our journey toward Mo- 
 gadore. The country through which we travel- 
 led was made up of one rocky hill succeeding 
 another. But little land was susceptible of cul- 
 tivation, and this was chiefly in the vallies. A 
 few houses were scattered along in them, and 
 occasionally a cottage was seen at a great height 
 upon the mountains on our right. We continu- 
 ed upon the sea coast, and passed one conside- 
 rable stream, and a number of streamlets. The 
 passage through the country, for it can hardly 
 be called a road, was almost constantly throng- 
 ed with loaded camels and mules from Moga- 
 dore, transporting iron, grain, haicks and other 
 articles. At about 2, P. M. we came to a place 
 which offered to the traveller two different pas- 
 sages ; the one near the sea, the other over the 
 mountains ; the latter being, as I was told, the 
 shortest course. I saw numerous loaded camels 
 coming from the passage next to the sea. This 
 passage was described by El'ajiah Mahomet as 
 the best, although the longest. This was the 
 passage through which Capt. Riley and my ship- 
 mates travelled in their passage to Mogadore 
 soon after we were captured, and they were 
 purchased by Sidi Hamet. Capt. Riley men- 
 tions a place in this passage by the name of the 
 Jew's Leap ; but as I was conducted through 
 the passage over the mountains, I did not see. 
 and cannot describe it. Our passage over $he 
 mountains was such as to excite the fearful ap
 
 KOBBINS' JOURNAL. 246 
 
 prehensions of those who were about to attempt 
 it ; and almost beyond the power of description 
 from those who had effected it. It was a zig- 
 zag course up a mountain, forming an angle of 
 ascent of at least forty-five degrees. This ex- 
 traordinary passage was made over an artificial 
 path constructed by cutting and wearing a nar- 
 row track into the recks of the mountain, about 
 twenty feet, and the same distance to its outer 
 edge, each ascending a little. These tracks 
 were made in and out of the mountain, until 
 we ascended nearly to its summit, which, from 
 the place where we began to rise, was at least 
 one thousand feet. We made this passage oa 
 foot; driving the loaded mules before us. Before 
 we reached the summit, we came to one of these 
 tracks, worn into the rocks by travelling, of 
 about forty rods in length. This track was only 
 of sufficient width to permit the mules and their 
 followers to pass singly. Had either fallen from 
 this contracted path, over the shelving rocks 
 composing the side of the mountain, immediate 
 death must have been the inevitable consequence. 
 We then came to a long, dark, natural passage 
 between two mountains of as much as two miles 
 in length, ascending but a very little. At the 
 end of this passage, upon the top of the moun- 
 tain, is a level country of about five miles in 
 length, and three in width ; in a pretty high 
 state of cultivation, with houses situated thinly 
 upon every part of it. The contrast it furnished 
 to the rocky and almost inaccessible mountains 
 that lead to it, is as great as nature can afford. 
 Here we rested awhile, and travelled leisurely 
 
 X 2
 
 246 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 over this piece of ground ; the inhabitants all 
 showing to El'ajjah Mahomet the most distin- 
 guished respect. We then began to descend the 
 mountain upon the northeast side, which was al- 
 so very steep in places, but much less so than 
 where we ascended. We then came to a valley 
 through which a. stream runs of considerable 
 size, and passes off* upon the left to the sea. Af- 
 ter passing it the country became more sandy, 
 and as we were gradually rising we again had a 
 full view of the Atlantic ocean. At about sun- 
 set we put up at the house of an acquaintance of 
 EPajjah Mahomet. 
 
 Upon the 10th we continued through a coun- 
 try that was sandy, until towards noon, when we 
 entered a valley lying between two mountains, 
 losing sight of the sea, where we saw many beau- 
 tiful gardens constructed similarly to those at 
 Wadinoon, and watered by a small stream issu- 
 ing out of the mountains. Our passage, for seven 
 or eight miles, was level, leading between moun- 
 tains in a zig-zag course, frequently so narrow 
 that but one could pass at a time. It was the 
 most romantic scene that the mind can conceive. 
 Our good protector kept generally upon his 
 mule, while the Spaniard and I alternately rode 
 and walked, in company with the boy. We now 
 travelled through a country of hills and vallies. 
 almost every where covered with the Argan 
 tree, and loaded with fruit, which resembles the 
 damson in shape, and of a yellow colour. From 
 the meats of these, oil in great abundance is 
 manufactured. About sun-set we passed the 
 dry bed of a large river, and came into a wilder- 
 ness composed of the Argan tree. Darkness
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 247 
 
 came on, and we gathered a quantity of wood, 
 to spend the night, there being no house in 
 sight. At length we heard the barking oi" 
 dogs, and descried the light of a fire. We ap- 
 proached, and found it completely surroun- 
 ded with a wall composed of thorn bushes 
 twenty feet high. We requested water, but 
 could procure none ; and with great difficulty 
 obtained a little fire. We attempted to repose 
 around the fire, but enjoyed but little rest. The 
 dogs within the wall, with the highest ferocity, 
 were constantly gnashing their teeth, and at- 
 tempting to force a passage through the picket 
 of thorns to assail us. This species of dogs is 
 common in every part of Africa that I had seen, 
 and are the most ferocious of the whole canine 
 race. I have often seen them tear and lacerate 
 the blacks in the most terrible manner. Almost 
 every native has more or less of them with him. 
 whether travelling or at rest. 
 
 The next morning, at an early hour, we start- 
 ed upon the last day's journey to Mogadore. 
 We passed in the fore part of the day through a 
 forest of Aroan trees. For the whole distance 
 from Santa Cruz to Mogadore, the traveller is 
 accommodated with water secured in cisterns. 
 These are built with great care and much labor. 
 Some of them are thirty feet in length, and eight 
 or ten in width. They are sunk into the earth 
 from five to eight feet, and stoned and plaister- 
 ed within; over them, rising about five feet 
 above the surface, is built a flat roof, made of 
 poles, reeds, and mud, and smoothly plaistered. 
 The entrance is at one end down a flight of 
 stairs leading to the water. Upon the roofs are
 
 248 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 often seen travellers refreshing themselves with 
 food, and partaking of the fine water contained 
 within. The water is conducted into them by 
 little channels cut into the surface of the earth. 
 After refreshing ourselves at one of these fine 
 reservoirs, we came into a plain sandy country. 
 Upon rising a small sand hill we again had a view 
 of the Atlantic — of an island which forms the 
 harbor of Mogadore, and of a ship and a brig. 
 This was the first shipping I had beheld since we 
 left the wreck of the Commerce at Cape Baja- 
 dor, nearly nineteen months before. The joy oi 
 my Spanish companion almost produced deliri- 
 um. We soon came in sight of Sweahrah, the 
 longed-for Mogadore, situated very low upon 
 the borders of the ocean, and, it being high tide, 
 appearing to be almost surrounded with water. 
 We continued to travel near the beach, and ha- 
 ving upon our left a block of buildings enclosed 
 within a wall of stone, plaistered, presenting a 
 front of at least two hundred feet in length. 
 Above this wall, I discovered four distinct roofs 
 covered with green tile, coming to a point in the 
 centre. El'ajjah Mahomet informed me that it 
 belonged to Moolay Solimaan, emperor of Moroc- 
 co. Near to this was situated a small fort. The 
 town is nearly three miles distance from this 
 place. Continuing on, we passed a rapid river. 
 Ly fording. Our protector now dressed himself 
 in elegant Moorish stile ; and as we followed 
 him, we passed a number of buildings or monu- 
 ments, erected in honour of some Mahommedan 
 saints as I concluded, for we were directed to 
 dismount our mules, dismiss our slippers, and 
 walk by barefooted. We approached the walls
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 249 
 
 of the town to within half a mile of the south 
 gate, and stopped. EVajjah Mahomet left us and 
 entered the town. I very soon saw a gentleman 
 of elegant appearance approaching rapidly to- 
 ward us. He came directly up to me, and with 
 the benignity of benevolence illuminating his 
 countenance, called me familiarly by name, 
 shook me cordially by the hand, and requested 
 me to mount the mule and ride into town. Up- 
 on saying I could as well walk, he said, " Yov 
 must be fatigued — I insist upon your riding ;" — I en- 
 tered the town with him, and my Spanish com- 
 panion, whom he conducted to the Spanish Con- 
 sul's, taking me with him to his own house, 
 where 1 was immediately supplied with the 
 best refreshments. It will be recollected that 
 the Shilluh declined to purchase Brown and 
 Davis at Wadinoon, but to my surprise and to 
 my joy, I found them at Mi. Willshire's house, 
 having arrived there tour days before. The 
 American flag was immediately hoisted upon the 
 top of the house, and I, together with Brown and 
 Davis, were directed to give three cheers. When 
 I arrived, I was clad in an old woollen frock 
 shirt, as my whole apparel; my hair had grown 
 at random in every direction ; and my beard pre- 
 sented one evidence of a Mahometan. A Jewish 
 barber was immediately ordered, and gave to 
 my hair and beard a more Christian appearance. 
 Clothing was as soon as possible furnished by 
 Mr. Willshire, and I began to think 1 should in 
 time regain my native tongue, my American ha- 
 bits, and my native country. For nearly two 
 years I had spoken the Arabic tongue, and felt
 
 250 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 myself excessively mortified to find I conversed 
 so imperfectly in the English language. 
 
 CHAP. XXIII. 
 
 fliaracter of Mr. Wiltshire — description of Mogadore — the 
 Jews — markets — manufactures— public buildings — mode of 
 worship — manners of the people — population — harbor — ship- 
 wrecks — letter from the Hon. James Simpson. 
 
 MR. WILLSHIRE, under whose protection I 
 was now placed, and to whom I shall, till death, 
 feel under the deepest obligations that gratitude 
 can dictate, is a native of the city of London ; 
 of about twenty-five years of age, of the most 
 elegant person, and of the most accomplished 
 manners. He has resided at Mogadore a number 
 of years, and has at that place a large mercantile 
 establishment. He has had for a considerable 
 time, vessels under the American and English 
 colors. I supposed him to be very wealthy, from 
 the number of stewards, clerks, and assistants, 
 in his employ. He invariably had religious ser- 
 vice performed at his splendid mansion upon the 
 •Sabbath, at which English gentlemen and ladies, 
 sea-captains, and oilier foreigners attended. He 
 performed service himself in the Episcopalian 
 mode, with the most solemn devotion, and his 
 bouse appeared to me to, be a real Bethel ; and 
 so far as art imperfect man can judge of the heart, 
 I should think his a fit abode for the .Holy Spirit. 
 It must be left for the future biographer to erect 
 a monument to his virtues ; but I must not, I can- 
 not omit to inform my renders tiiat to this modern 
 Howard, this divine philanthropist, our unfortu- 
 nate countrymen are indebted for their redemp-
 
 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 251 
 
 tion from the most miserable bondage that the 
 miserable sons of Adam ever endured. To know 
 the manner in which he expends much of his 
 immense income, would be to learn, that with 
 him wealth is devoted to the noblest of all pur- 
 poses, diminishing human woe, and augmenting 
 human happiness. He has, by his munificence, 
 secured the favor, even of Mahommcdans, with 
 all their antipathy against Christians. Scarcely 
 is there a Moor or an Arab through the whole 
 of Sa.se and the Great Western Desert, who is of 
 any consequence, but he has engaged to assist 
 him in his benevolence. No sooner does he 
 learn of a Christian slave of any country, than he 
 despatches a Moor, a Shilluh, or an Arab to 
 bring the wretched creature to taste the fruits 
 of his ransoming benevolence. The paper I 
 mentioned at Wadinoon was written by this mi- 
 nistering angel of mercy. 
 
 The town of Mogadore is situated upon the 
 Western coast of Africa, and, from the most ap- 
 proved charts, in 31° 15 / N. Latitude, and 9° 
 W. Longitude. It is, in every point of view, the 
 most important place in the empire of Morocco. 
 It stands upon a peninsula, projecting into the 
 Atlantic ocean, and its waters wash its north 
 and west sides ; and, at high tide, nearly make 
 it an island. A high wall, composed of stone 
 and mortar, is built near the borders of the pe- 
 ninsula, and within it is situated the town in 
 three distinct sections, separated from each 
 other by inner walls. The Moors occupy the 
 main section upon the east ; and the few Chris- 
 tian merchants the western one, containing the 
 fortress, together with some natives ; and the
 
 252 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 Jews the north section exclusively. It is strong 
 \y fortified, having double walls upon the south 
 and east sides, from which points it is approach- 
 ed from the country. It is in shape a paralell- 
 ogram, and strongly fortified at each corner, 
 especially at the northeast and southeast, by 
 heavy mounted brass and iron cannon. Upon 
 the water port, at the west side, is a battery of 
 cannon containing between forty and fifty heavy 
 brass pieces. There is but one entry into that 
 section of the town occupied by the Jews, and 
 this gate is constantly guarded by an armed 
 Moor. At night it is always locked, cutting oft 
 the despised sons of Jacob from intercourse 
 with any part of mankind. Even in the day- 
 time, intercourse with them is almost prohibited. 
 During my residence, I went into this part of the 
 town with an English seaman, formerly of the 
 wrecked brig Surprise, and was immediately 
 taken before an Alcayd, or officer, and compel- 
 led to apologize for this intrusion. Upon learn- 
 ing that I was from Wadinoon, I was afterwards 
 permitted to visit the Jews. They have a num- 
 ber of synagogues, as places of worship. Upon 
 Friday afternoon, at six o'clock, their Sabbath 
 commences, and ends at the same time upon 
 Saturday afternoon. During this time, they nei- 
 ther light a candle or lamp, make a fire, cook, 
 nor touch their hands to any laborious service. 
 Their food is previously cooked. I never saw 
 them worship in their synagogues, which I ex- 
 ceedingly regret. The Jews are permitted to 
 have open shops in every part of the town, until 
 eight o'clock, P. M. after which time every Jew, 
 excepting those at Mr. Wiltshire's and a few
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 25 
 
 others, were enclosed within the walls of their 
 town, until day-light the next morning. The;, 
 are compelled to wear black slippers and caps, 
 and not allowed to dress their heads in red, or 
 feet in yellow. 
 
 The general market is situated in the main 
 town. It is well supplied with beef, mutton, 
 fowls, bread, and almost every variety of vege- 
 tables. The grain market is inclosed on a square 
 through which a narrow street passes. Upon 
 the borders of this square, are great numbers of 
 very small shops owned by Moors and Jews, sup- 
 plied with every article which fancy would ad- 
 mire, convenience desire, or necessity crave. 
 
 There are a number of manufactories for 
 haicks or blankets. The loom and shuttle ap- 
 peared to be similar to our domestic ones. By 
 a decree, the blankets here manufactured are 
 prohibited from exportation, and are reserved 
 for transportation into the deserts. These are 
 made wholly of wool. There are also manufac- 
 tories for iron tools, of every necessary kind ; and 
 although they do not look like those of Sheffield 
 and Birmingham ware, many of them are well 
 made. The Jews manufacture snuff by pulveri- 
 zing tobacco in large mortars. The grain is 
 manufactured into flour by horses. A sweep 
 is attached to the main wheel of the mill. Which 
 being connected with a number of cog-wheels, 
 gives the stone a velocity nearly equal to some 
 of our mill-stones carried by water. 
 
 The streets of this town are straight, although 
 short, intersecting each other, generally, at right 
 angles. In the main town, are streets running 
 Y
 
 254 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 through the whole of it. They are narrow, and 
 over some of them in the fortress section, an arch 
 extends from one side of the street to the other. 
 The houses are built of stone and lime, general- 
 ly of one, although some are two and three sto- 
 ries high. The roofs are mostly flat. The 
 streets have a handsome appearance in passing 
 them, the houses being generally plaistered or 
 whitewashed. 
 
 The public buildings are those devoted to pi- 
 ous uses, having a steeple, or tower running to a 
 considerable height, and built square to the top. 
 From the top, projects a crane, upon which it- 
 hung a white flag to summon the people togeth- 
 er. In addition to this notice, a Moor ascends 
 to the top, and with a loud voice, exhorts the in- 
 habitants to come and worship, by exclaiming — 
 * Allah Ha !"'* Upon this notice, many of the 
 people are seen to leave their temporal concerns, 
 and repair to their temple to attend to devotion- 
 al exercises. This is repeated four times a day 
 at regular seasons. It is singular, that the mode 
 of worship, where I witnessed it here, was pre- 
 cisely the same as I had. thousands of times, no- 
 ticed it upon the Zahara desert, at Wadinoon. 
 and in various other parts of Africa. If the Ma- 
 hommedans can claim no other merit, they an 
 at least entitled to the character of consistency 
 and uniformity in their religious ceremonies. 
 
 The people of Mogadore appeared to be mild, 
 peaceable, and affable in their manners. Being 
 a Christian, it was not safe for me to venture to 
 go often abroad, around the town, for fear of in- 
 
 * See Lord Byron's Giaour — line 734.
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 256 
 
 suits or injury ; and I kept generally at Mr. Will- 
 shire's ; altnough, in the day-time, I frequently 
 walked about the place. I never saw nor heard 
 the least disturbance ; witnessed no mobs or ri- 
 ots, and the town appeared to be a place where 
 the operation of a good police was known and 
 obeyed. 
 
 This town, in its greatest length, must be three 
 quarters of a mile, and in breadth, over half a 
 mile. It is very compactly built, and from the 
 best accounts I could obtain, has within it, ol 
 different nations, thirty thousand inhabitants. Of 
 this population, the principal part are Moors ; 
 the Jews are estimated at about six thousand, 
 and the Christians, while I was there, could not 
 have exceeded fifty. The town is supplied with 
 water from the river running two miles to the 
 southward of it. It is transported in kegs load- 
 ed upon asses; and the beach from the town to 
 the river is constantly lined with these animals 
 passing from and to the town. An island is situ- 
 ated about two miles from the shore, and forms 
 the harbor. Upon it is a strong fortification; 
 and foreigners are not permitted to land upon it. 
 
 The entry into the harbor is upon the north of 
 this island through a narrow rocky channel. In 
 the winter, the harbor is rendered insecure from 
 the stroHg southwest wind blowing directly into 
 it, and the bottom being sandy, the anchorage is 
 bad. From information derived from Mr. Will- 
 shire, I learned that many shipwrecks have here 
 happened. The wreck of an English brig was 
 lying there while I was in the place. Capt. Wm. 
 Rogers of Cape Ann, with whom I returned to
 
 i56 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 America, gave me a most interesting account of 
 i he loss of a part of his crew in this harbor, I 
 think in the winter of 1815. The limits of this 
 work preclude the insertion of the melancholy 
 narrative, any farther than to say, that his schoo- 
 ner parted one of her cables — that he and two of 
 his crew went on board an English vessel to re- 
 place it; and while absent, the remaining crew 
 abandoned the schooner, entered the boat, and 
 were dashed into eternity upon the shore. The 
 -chooner was saved, and trie captain obtained a 
 crew of Moors and Jews to navigate her to Bos- 
 ton. I afterwards saw and conversed with a Jew 
 who was one of the crew, at Mogadore. Mr. Will 
 shire informed me that a few years since, a Spa- 
 nish vessel entered this harbor with a large crew. 
 without a cargo; and not being permitted to 
 trade from that circumstance, having nothing 
 but specie, she sailed down the coast to fish, be- 
 tween Cape Non and Santa Cruz, was taken by 
 .,-^,.; C r, hv the natives, and her whole crew 
 
 massacred. 
 
 I might enrich this journal with many more in- 
 teresting communications from this intelligent 
 gentleman, but they must be omitted. I resided 
 with him from the 11th to the 22d March, and 
 shall for ever reckon the days spent under his 
 hospitable roof, as the most pleasing of my life. 
 Every thing within the compass of human exer- 
 tion was done to render my stay delightful. He 
 had snatched me and my companions from the 
 most forlorn and miserable slavery, placed me 
 in a temporal paradise, and pointed the way to 
 my country and my friends. I cannot imagine 

 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 257 
 
 a situation upon earth, all things considered, 
 more enviable than the one he fills. I forgot the 
 splendor of his mansion, and the magnificence 
 (hat surrounded him, in the more brilliant traits 
 of his mind. A good description of his dwelling 
 wotted be the history of architecture. Upon the 
 15th, he informed me that he had received a let- 
 ter from the Hon. James Simpson, American Con- 
 sul General at Tangier, relative to our passage 
 home, requesting him, as soon as we were suffi- 
 ciently recruited for the journey, to send us to 
 Tangier, if no passage to America could be 
 found at Mogadore. He assured us that in a few 
 days every thing should be in readiness for the 
 journey, that he would despatch an alcayd, or an 
 Emperor's soldier, to guard us on the way, and 
 that he had obtained a passport from the Empe- 
 ror for this purpose. 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 
 The author, Davis, and Brozvn leave Mogadore for Tangier— 
 the country — Azamor — river Oimnirabih — Douar of tents — 
 fearful apprehensions — equestrian exercise — escape by night 
 — aqueduct — arrival at Rabat. 
 
 UPON the 22d, the alcayd and two muleteers 
 presented themselves to Mr. Wiltshire, with three 
 large mules ; one each, for Brown, Davis, and 
 myself. The alcayd was elegantly armed and 
 mounted upon a horse, and the muleteers were 
 to go on foot. We were well supplied with pro- 
 visions for five days, which would carry us to 
 the town of Azamor. We also had a sufficient 
 supply of money for our expenses. We now took 
 Y2
 
 258 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 an affectionate leave of Mr. Willshire, received 
 his blessing and good wishes, and started upon 
 our journey. We passed the south gate at 8, 
 A. M, passed the east battery, and directed our 
 course toward Tangier. We kept the coast for 
 some distance, and wei»e joined by another al- 
 eayd, with a servant bound to Fez. He contin- 
 ued with us for ten days, and added much to the 
 pleasure of our journey. We travelled mode- 
 rately, and the muleteers kept up on foot. The 
 cquntry through which we passed upon the first 
 day yrai rather barren and thinly inhabited. We 
 stopped tor the night at sun an hour high, and 
 lodged under bushes: the cattle being fettered. 
 There were a few inhabitants near us, who 
 brought us fowls, eggs, and keskoosoo, and refu- 
 sed anv compensation for them. Before day- 
 light, upon the 23d, we were again mounted and 
 on our journey". The alcayd who conducted 
 me was the same one, he told me, who was the 
 guide of Capt. Riley, and pointed to a path which 
 he then travelled ; but now chose one that went 
 farther into the country. We travelled over land 
 very level, highly cultivated, loaded with grain, 
 and often presenting douars of pitched tents. 
 Through the 24th, the country had the same 
 appearance, and at night we lodged in the cen- 
 tre of a large collection of tents. Wherever a 
 douar of tents is met with, one is found devoted 
 to pious uses, called a zhunu facing to the east. 
 The traveller always goes there to worship and 
 to lodge; aud is always there treated with kind- 
 ness and respect. The alcayd who guided and 
 guarded ns i and the one who joined us, would
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 259 
 
 be regarded, in every portion of the globe, as 
 first rate men. They were dignified in their 
 manners, affable in their deportment, and affec- 
 iionate in their treatment. No pains were spa- 
 red to make us comfortable, and our journey 
 pleasant. We were not, however, permitted to 
 lodge in the tents, devoted to the worship of 
 Mahomet, being nothing but Christians ourselves. 
 The next day (25th) we came in sight of the At- 
 lantic, and stopped to feed the cattle near a 
 walled town, which the alcayd entered. After 
 resting a short time, we prosecuted our journey, 
 passing stone buildings standing singly, some 
 villages, a considerable river, the country 
 abounding with Argari trees, and at 10, P. M. 
 put up near a walled town, the gates of which 
 were closed. The inhabitants came out and 
 sold us fowls and eggs, and we slept without the 
 mud walls, in the blankets furnished us by Mr. 
 Wiltshire. Upon the 26th, we passed a country 
 more hilly, and, at 2, P. M. reached the town of 
 Azamor, having passed a great number of saint- 
 houses. We always had to dismount and pass 
 them on foot, while our devotional guard offer- 
 ed up worship to that prophet, whose followers 
 never seem to forget his supposed divinity, or 
 omit to adore him. The town is situated upon 
 the west side of the river Ommirabih, upon ele- 
 vated ground. The town in shape neailv re- 
 sembles a right angled triangle. The river forms 
 the base, the ocean the side, and the country the 
 hypothenuse. It is chiefly built of stone, and 
 completely walled with a very high plaistered 
 stone wall. Around its southeast corner or tor
 
 260 RObBINS' JOURNAL, 
 
 tress, it is ditched ; and from the ditch to the 
 battery, is thrown up a body of earth and stone, 
 ascending as steep as the roof of a house. The 
 battery, rising thirty feet above the top of this 
 ascent, would seem to render it impregnable. 
 Upon the battery are mounted forty or fifty iron 
 and brass pieces of cannon. The town has the 
 appearance of antiquity. In its suburbs, which 
 we passed, are various manufactories of leather, 
 pottery, &c. 
 
 We here replenished our stock of provisions, 
 and upon the morning of the 27th, as soon as the 
 gates were opened, we again started upon our 
 journey, and passed the river Ommirabih in 
 a ferry boat. We saw great numbers of fishing 
 boats, and upon examining the fish taken, I found 
 them to be shad; precisely like those caught in 
 Connecticut river, and they made me think of 
 that beautiful stream, upon the banks of which 1 
 was born. This river must be thirty-five rods in 
 width. It is a clear, handsome stream, and the 
 largest I had passed in Africa, although upon the 
 desert of Zahara I had passed many dry beds oi 
 rivers much wider. The country here was not 
 very fertile, but in the course of the day we pass 
 ed many douars of tents, and at night put up at 
 a large one situated two miles out of our regular 
 course. A douar of tents consists of different 
 numbers and arranged in different manners — 
 some in a square, some in a triangle, and the one 
 we reached this night was in a perfect circle, 
 pitched within ten feet of each other. As I ap- 
 proached with Brown and Davis on foot, we vvere 
 assailed by hundreds of dogs, and it was with the
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNA& 261 
 
 greatest difficulty we could defend ourselves from 
 them with heavy clubs. We entered the douar 
 before night, and a small tent was pitched for the 
 two alcayds, for us, two Moors who had joined 
 us at Azamor and the muleteers, in the centre of 
 the circle. The two alcayds were in the tent, 
 the muleteers had gone to water the mules, and 
 the rest of us were reposing around the tent. It 
 was immediately surrounded by natives led by 
 curiosity to see Christians, who inquired of the 
 alcayds where we were from and where bound. 
 Upon being informed that we were from the De- 
 sert, and bound to the Sidi or Emperor, and dis- 
 covering us to be Americans or Englishmen, they 
 immediately entered into conversation among 
 themselves, which the alcayd from Fez learned 
 to be a menace toward us. They remembered 
 the lesson not long before taught the Algerines 
 by Commodore Decatur and Lord ExiviouTH,and 
 undoubtedly would seek revenge in anv wa v - 
 
 The bW>* <•— ^— - •" « . , - 7/ 
 j~ Axouixe/5, wan iury mingled with 
 
 dignity, said that the Emperor had sent for us, 
 and demanded of them what they meant by their 
 plots? They explained by denying any plottings, 
 and soon retired. I never saw the authority of 
 an individual so suddenly operate upon a multi- 
 tude. Very soon we saw twenty or thirty arm- 
 ed horsemen approaching us with great speed. 
 They halted near our tent. I expected my jour- 
 ney to Tangier and for life was now to be end- 
 ed. Each Moor had a musket, and they were 
 but a rod or two from the tent. The alcayds re- 
 mained perfectly composed, and my fears were 
 dismissed, when I saw these inimitable horse-
 
 2G2, R0BB1NS' JOURNAL. T 
 
 men begin their Moorish sports. They exclaim, 
 hah ! hah ! hah ! — drop the rein upon the horses' 
 neck — incline the body far forward — put the 
 horse into full speed, and aiming at some distant 
 object, fire their muskets, and with one hand 
 give it a sudden turn around the head. The 
 horse, being perfectly trained, comes to a halt 
 as soon as the gun is fired. It was in my view the 
 most elegant display of the equestrian art I ever 
 witnessed. The feats of the circus are but pu- 
 erile triflings in comparison with it. For an hour 
 I witnessed this amusement. It called to mind 
 the tournaments in the age of chivalry. After 
 they retired, we were refreshed ; and when si- 
 lence reigned through the whole circle of tents, 
 at least a mile in circumference, and darkness 
 had shrouded the earth with her sable mantle, 
 we cautiously began to leave a place where de- 
 struction might, in the twinkling of an eye, have 
 awaited us ; and where the alcayds, ourselves, 
 and the muleteers, might have sunk into the 
 grave, leaving the Emperor in ignorance of the 
 fate of his officers, and our friends of our desti- 
 ny. For five hours we sought in vain for the 
 path we took that lead us to this douar. and up- 
 on finding it, we travelled with as great speed 
 as possible, taking the muleteers behind us. 
 This was the dictate of compassion, but as often 
 as we did it, our alcayd would remonstrate 
 against it ; and I had occasion myself to regret 
 it ; for the old muleteer belonging to me, while 
 I was relieving him from the fatigue of running, 
 came very nigh relieving my pockets of all the 
 money belonging to Brown, Davis, and myself.
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL,. 263 
 
 Through the 28th, we travelled at no great 
 distance from the ocean, and at 10, A. M. passed 
 the town of Darlbeda situated upon it. It appear- 
 ed of considerable size, and was walled ; but we 
 did not enter it. At meridian, we passed the 
 town of Afidallah. Toward night, we passed a 
 well built stone bridge, arched, and railed with 
 stone. Continuing on, we forded a small stream, 
 and came to a forest of Argan trees. We lodg- 
 ed upon the outside of the walls of a town of 
 some size. It was dark when we reached, and 
 dark when we left it ; and unless we possessed 
 those " optics keen, to see what is not to be seen" we 
 could not describe it. 
 
 Upon the 29th, continuing near the ocean, we 
 had a distant view of the town of Rabat ; the 
 country being remarkably level, fertile, and well 
 cultivated. The inhabitants all lived in tents 
 here, and the fields abounded with immense 
 droves of horned cattle. Large numbers of fat- 
 tened oxen were driving toward Rabat. It was 
 a most delightful day's journey, and the animal 
 and vegetable productions of the country indica- 
 ted the highest enjoyment. We reached the 
 aqueduct, which conducts water into the town, 
 at about a mile's distance fro»n the walls of it. 
 This aqueduct is so constructed that, for the 
 most of the way, the water is carried above the 
 ground, in a kind of flume. The fountain that 
 supplies it is eight miles from the town ; and at 
 that place is an high tower. When we came to 
 the aqueduct, we stopped, and the alcayds en- 
 tered the town, having with them a letter from 
 Mr. Willshire to Mr. Mouderham. English Vice
 
 264 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 Consul at Rabat. The mules, having fed upon 
 grass, we mounted them, and entered the town 
 ourselves, and were immediately introduced to 
 the consul by our alcayd. He informed us, that 
 Mr. Wiltshire had requested him to furnish us 
 with every thing that we wanted to prosecute 
 our journey. I informed him that we were suf- 
 ficiently supplied with money, but wished, in that 
 town, to replenish our stock of provisions, which 
 were now T nearly exhausted. Brown, Davis, and 
 I dined at his house, but he said, as it was the 
 Jewish Sabbath, no business could that day be 
 transacted. I understood he was a Jew himself, 
 but he was dressed in Christian habit. After 
 partaking of refreshments we were conducted. 
 by our alcayd. to a public house, where a room 
 was provided for our accommodation. This was 
 the first building that might be called a public 
 house, that I had seen in Africa. This being a 
 place of great business, the house having many 
 apartments, was resorted to by travellers from 
 Fez, Morocco, and all the adjoining country. 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 Rabat, description of it— the harbor— shad— Mr. Abouderham— 
 Jewish feast— Sallee — a Lak*— river Saboo— scenery — Rock oj 
 Gibraltar, and Mount Atlas — arrival at Tangier— refections 
 — the Hon. James Simpson— -Mount Washington, in Africa — 
 passage to Gibraltar— Mr. Henry, consrd—Mr. Simpson's 
 letter. 
 
 AFTER securing our baggage in our apart- 
 ment, I went out to examine the town. It has 
 one principal street running parallel with the 
 shore of the river Beregrcb, which bounds it up-
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 2(3.V 
 
 on the north. Upon the west, it is bounded by 
 the Atlantic, and upon the south and east it is 
 bounded by an outer wall which is built about 
 half a mile from the inner wall, upon which can 
 non are mounted. Between these two walls are 
 very fine gardens, laid out with much taste, 
 abounding with fig, orange, lemon, and many 
 other fruit trees. Each garden had a well near 
 it, from which water was drawn by horses, and 
 wheel machinery ; but as I could not examine 
 them, I will not attempt a particular description 
 It is strongly fortified next to tbe sea. In tlm 
 town, were a number of zhams, or mosques for re- 
 ligious worship. The buildings are compactk 
 and well built of stone; and, as is almost uni- 
 versally the case through the whole country. 
 plaistered or whitewashed, having a neat anet 
 handsome appearance. Thei ? are a great num- 
 ber of narrow streets or aJ eys leading into the 
 principal street upon the river, some of which 
 are long and handsomely built. The street up- 
 on the river, in which is the great market, was 
 thronged by people of almost every description, 
 I there saw Jews, Turk* fcrir peans, Greeks. 
 Arabs, Shilluhs, and people from all the Barba 
 ry states; each using his native tongue, each 
 dressed in the mode of his country, and each 
 showing their peculiar manners. 
 
 The Jews in this place, as at Mogadore, have 
 a section of the town exclusively occupied by 
 the-m. The Moors constitute the principal pop- 
 ulation; biit the number of inhabitants 1 did not 
 learn, and cannot estimate any otherwise than 
 by saying, that the town is more compactly built
 
 266 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 than Mogadore, and covers, I should judge. 
 nearly double the quantity of ground. 
 
 The river admits vessels of burthen, and 1 
 there saw a Spanish, a French, and a Portuguese 
 vessel, and a small Moorish frigate lying at an- 
 chor. From its appearance to me, it was a place 
 of the greatest trade upon the western coast of 
 Africa, and altogether the best and safest harbor. 
 It is entered through a narrow channel, at the 
 mouth of the river, which then widens into a 
 large bay. A sand bar lies off the mouth of the 
 river, which may be passed with vessels drawing 
 eight feet of water, as such were loading when 
 I was there ; and as the tide rises eight or ten 
 feet, vessels of much larger burthen may then 
 pass in and out. I continued rambling about the 
 place until the hour of refreshment and rest*- 
 
 Upon the 30th we remained in this town- and 
 I was constantly upon the foot, examining every 
 natural and artificial curiosity that fell within my 
 observation. There were various manufactories 
 of blankets, cottons, silks, woollen cloths, lea- 
 ther, earthen-ware and some few of hard-ware, 
 especially of muskets, scimitars, and cutlasses. 
 
 I saw immense quantities of shad caught in the 
 same manner as they are taken in the rivers of 
 New England. They were of excellent flavor, 
 and of the same size and appearance of those 
 here caught. 
 
 Mr. Abouderham paid for our apartments, and 
 supplied us gratuitously with a quantity of excel- 
 lent bread. Having ourselves procured the other 
 necessary provisions for four or five days, we left 
 this place upon the morning of the 31st, halving
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 26? 
 
 been treated with the greatest politeness and 
 hospkality by the Consul, of whom we now took 
 leave, and passed the river in a ferry boat, to 
 the town of Sallee, lying upon the opposite side 
 of the river, and about a mile from its banks. I 
 had learned at Rabat, that a Jewish feast wae 
 to be holden this day in that place, and in this. 
 Great numbers of bullocks were slain the last 
 day I remained in Rabat, and almost the first 
 striking object that attracted my attention in this 
 place, was a great number of Jews, richly dress- 
 ed, marching in procession, barefooted, each ha- 
 ving the Old Testament before him, and each 
 reading aloud. We remained spectators, until 
 the whole passed, and saw the street strewed 
 with flowers. We then passed directly through 
 the town; which is a place of considerable size, 
 having a number of mosques, and is strongly 
 walled and fortified by numerous pieces of can- 
 non. In the vicinity were beautiful gardens fill- 
 ed with the fruits and vegetables common to 
 this part of the country. It also produced cot- 
 ton, and I saw numbers engaged in manufactur- 
 ing that article. The people, judging of them 
 from threir deportment toward us, retain the fe- 
 rocious manners of the ancient inhabitants, who 
 were a swarm of pirates. They menaced us as 
 we passed, denouncing us as Christian dogs ; 
 and had it not been for the presence and autho- 
 rity of our alcayd, the other having left us at 
 Rabat, bound to Fez, Ave should undoubtedly 
 have found our passage impracticable, and have 
 been in danger of our lives. 
 
 We passed out through the north gate, and at
 
 288 BOBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 a mile's distance, came to a broad high wall, ha 
 ving three arched gateways as passages through 
 it This wall extends as much as three miles ; 
 upon the top of which is an aqueduct, from 
 which the water descends into an artificial wa- 
 tering place, near the arches, and supplies the 
 town of Sallee. It has the appearance of great 
 strength and antiquity. The country, as we pro- 
 ceeded on, was generally level and very fertile 
 Toward noon we passed near the borders of a 
 lake of fresh water, about two miles in length, 
 and an half mile in breadth ; and by the middle 
 of the afternoon, we were ferried over a river of 
 a mile in width. I learned the name of this river 
 to be Midiah, and saw near its mouth the ruins 
 of an ancient fortified town, with fortifications 
 ouiit in the Portuguese manner. This town is 
 called Mamora ; but we did not enter it. The 
 ferryman stole my only pair of shoes, which were 
 supplied by another pair obtained from the al 
 cayd. We soon cane to a douar, and tarried 
 there through the night. 
 
 Upon the first of April, we continued to travel 
 ihrough a country somewhat hilly, having douars 
 of tents, droves of cattle, and numerous inhabi- 
 tants. At 9 A. M. we reached the end of a large 
 lake, having a number of small islands, upon 
 which I discovered saint-houses erected. It a- 
 bounded with ducks, and a great number ot 
 small boats, or rather rafts, filled with the natives, 
 were hunting them. Through the whole day we 
 travelled upon the western borders of this lake, 
 and at night put up within a few rods of its shore. 
 We wore refreshed with fowls and eggs procu-
 
 BOBBINS' JOUBNAL. 269 
 
 red for a trifling sum? indeed, for the whole pas- 
 sage, provisions were obtained at the cheapest 
 rate, and of excellent quality. The next morn- 
 ing we crossed the north end of this lake, and 
 had a distant view of the town of Laraiche, leav- 
 ing it upon our left, and bearing to the eastward 
 toward a large town, situated upon the banks of 
 the river Sdboo. We reached this river at night, 
 having passed by many villages with thatched 
 roof cottages. We lodged upon the south banks 
 of the river, upon which were many of the finest 
 gardens that can be imagined. They abounded 
 with Qvery tree, shrub, and vegetable calculated 
 to charm the eye, and gratify the appetite. I 
 never before, nor since, beheld a scene so per- 
 fectly enchanting. It reminded the traveller of 
 the finest descriptions of romance, and made him 
 think of the Elysian Fields. 
 
 Early in the morning of the- 3d, we reached 
 the high banks of the Saboo, which was a narrow 
 stream, and forded it. The passage from the 
 river to the town had that kind of beauty which 
 renders the power of description feeble. The 
 town avis ahriont concealed from the eye of the 
 traveller by labyrinths composed of almost eve- 
 ry species of the most beautiful fruit trees. The 
 town was, to appearance, of very great extent. 
 The houses which T saw were low ; very thickly 
 built, and thatched with coarse grass. I was 
 struck with the great number of mosques. The 
 one I passed was about ten feet square at the 
 base, diminishing but very little to the top, and 
 was at least sixty feet in height. In passing the 
 whole town, I counted fwenty-eight of these 
 Z2
 
 270 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 mosques. I regretted exceedingly that I could 
 not have entered the town, which, from its ex- 
 tent, and every appearance, induced me to con- 
 clude that it contained the greatest population 
 of any town J had seen in the country. I noticed 
 three funeral processions in the suburbs. The 
 name of this place, as I learned, is Dar-el Hama- 
 ra. We stopped upon the borders of the place, 
 until provisions were obtained, and then pro- 
 ceeded upon our journey some distance from 
 the sea, through a clay country of hills and val- 
 ises, abounding with small streams of water, and 
 at night lodged at a douar. 
 
 Upon the fourth, we passed over a very high 
 mountain, covered with wood and abounding 
 with wild boars, which the natives called helloof. 
 From this place I had a view of the Rock of Gib- 
 raltar to the northward, and of Mount Atlas to the 
 eastward. There were vast numbers of cork- 
 wood trees, with rough bark three or four inch- 
 es thick, from which the cork is manufactured. 
 Many of them were entirely stripped of their 
 bark. They resemble the oak of our country. 
 Upon descending the mountain, we reached an 
 extensive level country filled with tents and 
 thatched huts as far as the eye could reach. We 
 lodged at a small stone church devoted to the 
 use of travellers and religious worship. 
 
 Upon the 5th da.y of April, at about 10, A. M. 
 we reached the town of Tangier, and were con- 
 ducted to the house of the Hon. James Simpson. 
 American consul general at that place. He 
 received us with dignified affability, welcomed 
 us to his house, and rejoiced at the prospect we
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 27 J 
 
 now had of a speedy return to our country. 
 Brown, Davis, and I were conducted to a board- 
 ing house, and were requested to visit him as 
 often as possible during our stay. The town of 
 Tangier is too well known to need from me a 
 description, indeed I little thought of noticing 
 any surrounding object, I was so completely en- 
 grossed with the delightful and exhilarating 
 thought of leaving a country in which I had gone 
 through almost " all the variety of untried being." 
 Upon the 6th, being Sunday, we remained at 
 our quarters most of the day ; we however saw 
 many Spaniards resorting to the Roman Catho- 
 lic churches to attend divine service. For al- 
 most two years I had dragged out a miserable 
 existence among the followers of Mahomet, and 
 this was the first time, for that period, excepting 
 at Mr. Wiltshire's, that I had observed men ofc 
 fering adoration to the Saviour of the World. A 
 flood, of ideas rushed into my mind. I was in 
 sight of the bay of Gibraltar, from which we 
 sailed in the Commerce. The scenes through 
 which my shipmates and I had passed since that 
 time hurried through my memory. I cast my 
 eye toward my beloved country, and reflected, 
 with delight, that some of them were enjoying 
 its blessings. 1 also, in imagination, retraced 
 the desert of Zahara, and the coast of Africa, 
 and remembered with excruciating anguish, that 
 Mr. Williams, Barrett, Hogau, Antonio, and 
 Dick, were either enduring the sufferings from 
 which I had escaped, or were relieved from them 
 by a miserable death. The only consolation I 
 found from this distreesiag consideration was.
 
 272 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 that the same Merciful Being, who had snatch- 
 ed me from the accumulated horrors that had 
 long surrounded me, might also save them. 
 
 Upon Monday morning, (7th,) Mr. Simpson 
 sent a messenger, requesting us to visit his 
 splendid gardens two miles from town. We im- 
 mediately repaired thither. They were situa- 
 ted upon the top of an elevated hill which he, in 
 veneration for the imperishable honor of his 
 great compatriot in the revolutionary war, has 
 dignified with the name of Mount Washington. 
 Mr. Simpson is a venerable old man, of seventy 
 years ; and, from his treatment to us, and other 
 Americans, shews that he has not forgotten his 
 attachment to his unfortunate countrymen in the 
 exalted station he filis, and the splendor that 
 surrounds him. 
 
 From these delightful gardens Tangier pre- 
 sents a handsome appeaiance. The houses 
 are low in general, but the Consular residences 
 are very magnificent. In this place are Consuls 
 from America, France, Great Britain, Sweden, 
 Denmark, Holland, Spain, and Portugal. 
 
 Mr. Simpson addressed a letter to Mr. B. Hen- 
 ry, American Consul at Gibraltar, and delivered 
 it to a Spanish captain upon the 8th. Upon that 
 day, at 4, P. M. we entered on board a small 
 Spanish vessel, and left the continent of Africa. 
 We arrived at Gibraltar early the next morning, 
 the passage being about thirty miles. Upon uie 
 9th of April, 1817, the health officer came on 
 board, and immediately gave us liberty to land 
 at the port. We were immediately conducted 
 to the residence Mr Henry. Upon reading
 
 ROBBIJNS' JOURNAL 273 
 
 the letter of Mr. Simpson, he gave us a small sum 
 of money to refresh ourselves with, for which he 
 required a receipt. He ordered us to appear 
 before him at 4, P. M. which we did. He then 
 told us that it was too expensive for us to live on 
 shore, and that we must go on board the U. S. 
 brig Spark, then lying at Gibraltar, until we 
 could get a passage to America, adding, that she 
 was in want of hands, and that by entering on 
 board, we might obtain clothing from our ad- 
 vance pay. As much as we needed clothing, 
 our weakness was such as totally incapacitated 
 us from doing duty on board a public vessel, and 
 in that way to procure them. We little expect- 
 ed to be received by an American consul, and 
 treated in this manner, after the tender treat- 
 ment we had met with from an alcayd of Moroc- 
 co, Mr. Wiltshire, and Mr. Simpson. By good 
 fortune, without the aid of Mr. Henry, we fell in 
 with Capt. Stanwood, of the ship Hero, bound to 
 Boston, on board of which Brown and I entered. 
 We went ashore frequently, and applied to Mr. 
 Henry for clothing. He told us he thought we 
 had clothing sufficient, and shewed the most per- 
 fect indifference to our applications. Knowing 
 that we were in an unfit situation to commence 
 a voyage to America, and being totally destitute 
 of resources ourselves, I ventured to write to 
 Consul Simpson, at Tangier, entreating his as- 
 sistance. As soon as a return could be had, I 
 received from that benevolent gentleman the fol- 
 lowing answer : 
 
 Tangier, 17th April, 1817. 
 Sir — Yesterday I received your letter of the
 
 274 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 
 
 14th inst. and hope you may, with your two com- 
 panions, be at last accommodated with a passage 
 in the ship Hero; that you may all speedily be re- 
 stored to your country and families. — Let Davis 
 inform the relations of George Hall, that the Spa- 
 nish consul here has promised me, the Spaniard, 
 who is the cause of his not having obtained his 
 freedom with them (Brown and Davis) shall be 
 forthwith redeemed. 
 
 They may rely on Hall being freed at some 
 time, should Mr. Wiltshire not be able to effect 
 it before, by reason of the Arab persisting in his 
 determination not to release the one without the 
 other. I have written Mr. Henry on the subject 
 of your being provided (the three) with such 
 clothing as may be requested ; and I have no 
 doubt but that gentleman will do whatever may 
 be found necessary on the occasion. 
 I wish you well, and am, 
 
 Sir, your obedient servant, 
 JAMES SIMPSON 
 
 , P. S. 1st — We have not had any intelligence 
 from Mogadore since you left it. 
 
 Mr. Archibald Robbins. 
 
 P. S. 2d — 18th April. Advice has been re- 
 ceived of Hall's redemption being agreed, and 
 the ransom sent down. J. S. 
 
 The above letter I found at Mr. Henry's office. 
 The letter of the American Consul general to 
 him had an effect, which the entreaties of forlorn 
 and destitute Americans, just escaped from Ish-
 
 ROBBINS' JOURNAL. 21b 
 
 maelitish slavery, could not produce ; and he 
 immediately furnished necessary clothing to 
 Brown and myself, Davis having previously left 
 the Hero. 
 
 Upon the 30th April, Captain Stanwood sail- 
 ed from Gibraltar, and, after a pleasant passage, 
 we arrived in Boston upon the 30th day of May, 
 1817. 
 
 When I landed at Boston, 1 entirely forgot the 
 destitute situation I was in, from the reflection 
 that I was in the American Republic. My health 
 and strength were restored, and I was enabled 
 to work my passage on board the schooner 
 Pearl, Capt. Ingraham, to Saybrook. From 
 thence to Wethersfield I travelled on foot, where 
 f was received by my connections and former 
 companions with a cordiality which convinced 
 me that I was still esteemed : e*nd that the scenes 
 of degradation, slavery, and misery through 
 which I had passed, instead of diminishing., had 
 augmented their attachment. 
 
 THE END.
 
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