University of California. Los Angeles THE FRITZ L. HOFFMANN COLLECTION A Gift of Olga Mingo Hoffmann 1994 v c AND THE RIVER PLATE IN 1868: BY WILLIAM HADFIELD, SHOWING THE PROGRESS OF THOSE COUNTRIES SINCE HIS FORMER VISIT IN 1853. LONDON: BATES, HENDY AND CO., 4, OLD JEWRY, E.G. 1869, DUNLOP * Co., Klnf' Hid Court, Shoe Lne, E.r. URL CONTENTS. THE VOYAGE OUT . 9 THE CITY OF MONTE VIDEO 25 THE CITY OF Rio DE JANEIRO 31 THE WAR IN PARAGUAY 45 THE PROVINCE OF SAN PAULO 51 THE SAN PAULO RAILWAY ....... 55 THE CITY OF SAN PAULO 66 SAN PAULO TO SANTOS AND Rio DE JANEIRO ... 83 TRIP TO Juiz DE FORA. THE DON PEDRO SEGUNDO RAILWAY . 86 Rio DE JANEIRO TO THE RIVER PLATE, SECOND TRIP . . 99 CITY OF BUENOS AYRES 103 BUENOS AYRES TO COLONIA ESTANZUELLA .... 107 TRIP ON THE CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY .... 112 THE WESTERN RAILWAY OF BUENOS AYRES . . . 125 BUENOS AYRES SECOND NOTICE 131 PROGRESS OF STEAM NAVIGATION ON LA PLATA . . . 142 RAILWAYS IN THE RIVER PLATE 146 EMIGRATION TO BRAZIL 154 EMIGRATION TO THE RIVER PLATE 158 RAILWAYS IN BRAZIL 164 COMMERCE OF BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE . . . 173 THE RIVER AMAZON ........ 185 TELEGRAPHIC COMMUNICATIONS 197 RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS 200 THE AFFLUENTS OF LA PLATA . . . . . . . 203 THE REPUBLIC OF PARAGUAY 206 BRAZILIAN CURRENCY ........ 217 ARGENTINE FINANCES 231 THE PORT AND HARBOUR OF SANTOS 239 THE VOYAGE HOME 245 APPENDIX OF OFFICIAL AND OTHER DOCUMENTS . . . 253 PREFACE. ERRATA. Page 132. For Club " El Temple " read " Del Parque." Page lf>7. Transpose in table words "Revenue" an J" Working." Page 109. For "150,000" read " 15,000." k5ince tne year IOCM, wueu my roriner wurjK. was published, a large amount of English capital has been in- vested in various enterprises connected with Brazil and the River Plate, and particularly for the construction of railways, the formation of banks, and the promotion of steam navigation on the great Rivers communicating with the interior. If the results have not, in several instances, proved wholly satisfactory as regards the PREFACE. THIS work makes no pretentions to literary merit, but, as its title indicates, is simply a narrative descriptive of the progress of the countries specially referred to, which, though England has long maintained intimate commercial relations with them, are still but very im- perfectly known to the British public. In the Old World generations follow each other without any very perceptible alteration being observable in the charac- teristic surroundings, but in the New World, as America is still termed, a few years often effect changes of the most important and striking description. This is notably the case as respects Brazil and the River Plate, the growth of which has been very remarkable. Since the year 1854, when my former work was published, a large amount of English capital has been in- vested in various enterprises connected with Brazil and the River Plate, and particularly for the construction of railways, the formation of banks, and the promotion of steam navigation on the great Rivers communicating with the interior. If the results have not, in several instances, proved wholly satisfactory as regards 'the 6 PREFACE. distribution of dividends, the fact is in a considerable degree, if not entirely, owing to mismanagement of some kind or other ; and I think there can be no doubt that a prosperous future yet lies before all the com- panies in question. On the other hand, large gains have been secured, showing that those regions present a profitable and wide field for the futher employment of our surplus capital. The commercial tendencies of Brazil and the Platinc States are most liberal, and their policy is the very opposite of that pursued under the exclusive domination of Portugal and Spain. The Empire, not long since, received the approval of all civilised nations for its decree opening up the waters of the noble Amu/on t<> free commerce, and the unrestricted navigation of the upper riverine streams will be one of the chief advan- tages the victory of the allies in the present war will confer upon mankind. The extent of territory embraced within the limits of Brazil, and what are commonly called tlu- Platine St; cannot easily be realised by those who have never t ra- velled out of Europe; and it is equally difficult to convey any adequate idea of their wonderful fertility and productiveness. Nature has blessed them with her choicest gifts, and, to take the highest rank amongst the nations, their sole want is increased population; and this is precisely what overcrowded Europe can very well spare. I am glad to be able to state that the re- spective Governments are fully impressed with the PEEFACE. 7 necessity of adopting comprehensive and effective measures with a view to attracting emigrants to their shores. My intended movements during my visit were much interfered with by the cholera in the Plate and the protracted duration of hostilities in Paraguay, but I was enabled to satisfy myself of the complete realisation in 1868 of my most sanguine predictions in 1853. BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE IN 1868, THE VOYAGE OUT. A BEATEN track does not present the same novelty as a fresh one, except in the case of countries in what is still termed the New World, and which are again about to be described. It was in 1853 I last visited Brazil and the River Plate, and published my observations upon them. An interval of fifteen years has wrought many changes and produced wonderful progress there, and if the Southern portion of the American Continent has not kept pace with the Northern it may be chiefly ascribed to the continued great influx of emigrant population to the latter from all parts of Europe, but consisting chiefly of the Anglo- Saxon race. From this cause, even the loss of at least a million of American citizens by the great civil war has caused no perceptible diminution in the American census, because it is constantly replenished from Europe. The African race has, however, come to the surface in a most unlooked-for manner, their shackles having been removed by a violent shock, Avhich has, for a time at least, caused great social disturbance, and 10 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. left the Southern States more or less at the in- of the "niggers," as the blacks are generally termed. What may be the ultimate result, or how things will " settle down," is yet a problem to be solved. Meantime, slavery in Brazil ivmuinsa domestic institution, but it is doomed to inevitable extinction. The process of eman- cipation will be watched with much interest by all who desire to see the Brazilian Empire rise to the position it is capable of attaining. The tide of emigration to Brazil, spite of this disadvantage, has, however, t'uirlv set in, and the subject will be tivatrd "{'in itsproper place. Happily, in the River Plate there exists no such hindrance to the development of free labour, for which it also pres< a boundless field, and it will be the study of the writer to show how a portion, at all events, of the surplu-. population of Europe can be located then-, to tin gi advantage of those who embrace the opening as wrll a> of the country itself, whose chid' and nm.-t urgent want i> labour. The Paraguayan war and the terrible ra\ I he cholera have been a great drawback to internal im- provement in the Argentine Republic, but it i> gratifying to think that the encouraging picture dra \vn bv the writer on his hrst visit to the Plate has leen men- than real the motto of the Platine Stute> should now be " / and Progr< The "log" of an outward-bound pa>- senger on board an ocean steamer now possesses bm little interest; still, a record of tin- changes which h;t\e taken place in the means of transit ,-ince mv la>t TOJlge, made fifteen years ago, may be worthy of nortec, and will also afford information to those who contemplate a trip to Brazil or the River Plate. Success does not always attend even the best organised and most promising enterpr but all experience had even then proved that there wa> ample scope for the employment of capital in promoting THE VOYAGE OUT. 11 intercourse by means of steam with those countries that can only be reached by crossing the ocean. The South American Company, with which at that time I was connected, started under unfortunate circumstances. Ships were high in price, and rates of fuel were exorbi- tant by reason of the Crimean War. They lost in addi- tion two of their steamers in a most unlooked-for manner, which sadly deranged their operations ; but emphatically the two grave errors committed by the company were, first, in building more ships than they could raise capital to pay for ; and, secondly, in abandoning the line after their experience had thus been paid for, and at the very moment when the traffic was becoming lucrative ; for there can be no question that had they continued to run their steamers, instead of being seduced by the tempting terms of charter offered by Government, they would now have been in existence as a powerful company, paying good dividends. This was not to be however, and on the abandonment of the line, the Royal Mail Company was left without a competitor, and so enabled to realise large profits. Had this latter company read rightly the signs of the times, or met the requirements of commerce by despatching a steamer once a month from Liverpool, alternately with their regular mail from Southampton, they would not only have made more money, but to a considerable extent rendered themselves independent of Government subsidies. Their monopoly was exercised injuriously for the interests of the coun- tries they were trading to, of which the French Emperor had the sagacity to take advantage, by subsidizing a company from Bordeaux, which has continued a most successful career, for it cannot be disputed that French steam, navigation and the development of French com- merce are almost entirely due to his Imperial Majetsy's 12 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. remarkable prescience. As a natural consequence of increased facilities the ralHc with Mra/il and the River Plate has wonderfully increased, and at times both lines are inconveniently crowded, the French one being for some reason preferred by South .ms and foreigners. Subsequently some unsuccessful attempts were made to establish other steam lines to l>ra/il. "What was termed the brokers' line was started fn-m Liverpool to the River Plate, but it was not until Lamport and Holt took tin- business in hand that prr steam navigation was established on a firm basis from that port, and the fine fleet of the astronomical line n<>\v supersedes to a c< Me extent the use of sailing ships. They have alt (the Hipparelms) having left Liverpool on the 20th August la-t. Last on the list comes what is now generally known u Tail's" line, on board one of the steamers of which, the City of Limerick, I amnowcmbar They are line steam with superior accommodation for iirst-cla -s at very moderate rates. A line from London, calling at. Fal- month, has long been a favourite project, which M< - Tait have at length carried into effect with e\ prospect of success. They have wisely appreciated 1 1n- growing requirements of population in Ura/il and the I liver Plate, and are preparing to convey a number of third-class passengers by their steamers at a cheap i r.y confining their operations to Rio de Janeiro and the Jiiver riate they are enabled tolandgoodsand passenj at Monte Video and P.uenos Ayn-s under ;) days. The importance of this line has been greatly enhanc'ed bv the contract entered into with the JVlgian (iovenni, under which the steamers are to call at Antwerp on their THE VOYAGE OUT. 13 way out and home, the latter after landing passengers at Falmouth.* This brief reference to the progress of steam navigation to Brazil and the River Plate will show the growth of passenger traffic during the last few years, and sufficiently indicate the great increase of commerce with these coun- tries, not only as regards Great Britain, but also as respects continental ports, which will be more clearly illustrated in later portions of this volume ; meantime, as an index to passenger traffic, it is my intention to obtain statistics from the different companies, and to present them in a table which will speak for itself. I may further remark that a steam company has been formed to run from Marseilles to the River Plate, and another between the United States and Brazil, the latter with a subsidy from these two Governments, which cannot fail to be mutually advantageous, and to promote the great object of emi- gration. Altogether a very large amount of capital is employed in linking this portion of the old world and the new by means of steam navigation. That it will further increase no one can doubt, particularly should the tide of emigration from Europe set in freely towards those countries, as I firmly believe will soon be the case. And now we are moving along towards St. Vincent, expecting to pass the island of Madeira to-morrow (24th December), five days out from Falmouth, almost entirely under steam, a breeze from the north-west, which favoured us for 24 hours after leaving Falmouth, having gradually headed us. The speed of the vessel * Since writing the above, Messrs. Tait have parted with their exclusive interest in the line to a limited company, with a very influential board of direction, and of which Mr. Peter Tait is himself the chairman. No doubt this will lead to a yet more vigorous prosecution of an enterprise which has already and thus early secured so large a share of commercial patronage and support. 14 BRAZIL AND THI RIVER PLATE. under steam only is 9 to 10 knots, but if wo catch a good trade wind our progress south \vard ought t> vi-rv rapid. The City of Limerick is an ex.-. lleiit sea boat and all is very comfortable on board. My <>nl, proceeding this time will still be something in tin- narrative form, as more adapted to the task I have set myself of recording the progress made, and the chai . that have taken place since my last short vi.-it to South America in 1853. December 24'A. Passed close to the westward of Madeira, the island being enveloped in dense masses of black clouds, which poured forth their liquid itrei funning some dozen cascades of all Diet, <>ne being con- spicuous, reaching from the very top of the mountain down to the sea. No one would imagine tin- beauty and fertility of this i>land to judge from iN we^t. rn aspect, so different from the soiith-i-a- le, which i, \vell cultivated, and present- \. ry jth-a-ii - as you approach in that direction ihc liay of Funchal. Madeira has changed very little 1 believe of In ii it likely to do so with absurd m:irantine la--' -ice, which prevent vessels callinir, and limits the number of visitors. The cultivation of - me succeeded that of the vine, after the destruction of the Lit about the time of my former visit to the i-land, but to the detriment of its sanatory condition, as the n-fu>e canes were allowed to rot, and impregnated the atmos- phere offensively; otherwise, in its former glory of \ i and fig trees, the i>land iraa * little garden of lloperide-. Now that real Madeira wine has become a scarce commo- dity connoisseurs praise it extensively, and it is to be hoped a few years will enable the island a^ain to >upplv a ,ine article instead of the >purioiis tni-h commonlv :-ld under the name of Madeira wine. The real thin. THE VOYAGE OUT. 15 only to be found in choice old cellars, and no doubt a glass of it is a very great treat. Christmas Day, 1867. Spent this day on the "deep blue sea," with a steady north-east trade blowing, whicli carries us swiftly along, and, if all goes well, we shall reach St. Vincent on Saturday by daylight, so as to get into the harbour and coal during the night. Nine days from Falmouth will be a very good passage. The weather has become warm, with bright sunny days and starlight nights, the days lengthening as we proceed southward. Certainly the change from an English winter is very sensibly felt, and must exercise a bene- ficial influence on the human frame. All traces of sea sickness have vanished from those of the passengers who were afflicted with it during the first few days, and they are now on deck, basking in the sunshine, but they will soon require the protection of awnings, as we shall then be within the tropics. Different opinions exist as to the comparative comfort of the paddle-wheel and screw. I prefer the latter, irrespective of its economy, as advan- tage can be taken of every favouring breeze, and except with the wind right aft, a screw steamer is steadier than a paddle wheel one. Many object to the continual thud of the screw and to the tremulous motion of the ship, but the latter is less felt in screw steamers than formerly, from the application of improved machinery and the placing of the screw well down in the water. On the other hand, the continual plunging of paddle wheels is tiresome, and they keep up a certain amount of spray which is not experienced with the screw. It is quite true that a ship is a thing " you never can be quiet in," whether propelled merely by sails, by paddle, or by screw as everyone knows who has had experience, but this does not prevent sleep, or indulgence at times in 16 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. that dolce f v which is supposed to belong only to dwellers on land, under the soothing influence of an Italian sky. After all, how much we are indebted to steam, not only for comfort, but for our kn of distant countries. I remember several voyages made t<> Iiraxil in my early days, when 20 to 30 days -'ten taken to accomplish what we did yesterday in th namely, passing the island of Madeira to gain the in rt h- east tra<: St. Vincent. Saturday < the 28th December, brought us safely into Porto Grande, the gr< ling harbour for steamers bound to the South Atlantic, and where as many as tv, ners a month now coaled from tin- coaling establishment of Mr. Milh-r (also h s Consul for the (.'.; V< I>land> ). who has at gn-at i xpense built a hi-li and low h-vcl pier, with large coal stores, a numl iron lii:hter> and BCT iiich are employed t<> coal la;-L;r> aloiiL- ; in i impossible for anything to be more complete than the coaling arrangements here, which admit of sending oil' about 700 tons a day. Three vessels had to K during Sunday, and two got away l>y night our and a French - . hound froi illrs to I'.ra/il and the Ri\vr Platr. with about 550 emigrant- on board, chiefly for the liivt-r. \\'c lei't, to comp! her coaling the i.ext taiion between I.ombny and Sue/ : sh. and 500 horse power, hot h built by I>eimy l.r.'th of Dumbarton. She has accommodation of the ID luxurious kind for 150 first-cltta \ PS, and i- e(|ui}]ed in a most perfect manner. St. Vincent is her THE VOYAGE OUT. 17 only coaling port between England and Bombay, and this was merely a matter of precaution, as she had on board sufficient to take her to India. A Russian screw corvette with a number of training cadets on board was also at anchor in the Bay when we arrived, but she sailed uwuy southward about noon on Sunday. "With the in- creasing demand for steam traffic to the southern hemi- sphere, the importance of Porto Grande as a coaling station cannot be overrated. We expected to have picked up some news from Brazil and the River Plate, but un- fortunately the Royal Mail Company's steamer Seme (overdue a week) had not arrived, and various surmises were raised as to the cause of this unusual delay, which we shall only learn later on. The Brazil and River Plate Service, both by the above company and the French Messageries Imperiales, has been for many years performed with great regularity. Owing to the many steamers calling at St. Vincent, a good supply of fresh meat, fruit, eggs, ccc., can now be obtained there, brought from the neighbouring islands, as St. Vincent it- self continues as barren of verdure as ever. The town has extended itself somewhat, several new public buildings having been erected, including a Custom House, and some pretty cottages on the hill overlooking the harbour, for the use of Mr. Miller's numerous establish- ments. For the information of such of my readers as may not be conversant with the Cape Verde Islands, I reprint my remarks upon them contained in my former work already alluded to, as I shall also continue to do in other places, for a similar reason, besides the additional one of diffusing information as to countries with which we are so intimately linked by commercial and political ties. A submarine cable, connecting these Islands with Maderia and Lisbon, would be very useful, c 18 BRAZIL AND THE RIVEIl 1'LATE. will most probably come in time, as a link in the chain of our communieation.s with South Auu-rica and tin- rna-t of Africa. Its i-xi>U-iuv would .-hortni tin- time of receiving ami transmitting iu-ws between England and Brazil very con>idcral>ly. and tin- i-viU ari>ini: from such an i vent as the detention or loss of the Si-im- '" greatly mitigated : The Capo Verds consist of seven principal islands, and were tolerably populous, but of lute years have been subjected to a con- tinuous emigration to South America and the West Indies, w) like the hardy mountaineers from Madeira, they are found useful in tilling the soil, and in other laborious occupations ; ' demonstrating the fallacy of the old notion, that l*inflqa is the pi v dominant element in the Spanish and Portuguese mcy. What appears to be a present disadvantage, in regard to this human in the Verds, may prove ben. : 11 la-os (as they are called) return to their homes, possessed of a 1 money wherewith to improve their social and moral condition, islands produce wine, barilla, largo quantities of orchilla weed, iucal, the cultivation of which is rapidly forming a more more considerable item of export. Steam navigation will en bring them into much closer commercial contact with , and enhance the appreciation of their products and natural advantages. The climate is fine, though subject to occasional high temperature and frequent droughts. Despite the name Verds, suggestive of Arcadian animation, nothing can be more desolate than the appear- ance of the islands, as approached from the sea ; bold, high r against which the surge breaks violently, with mountains in the clouds, are general characteristics, to which those o! island of St. Vincent offer no exception. On our arrival th was thick, with drizzling rain, as we made Porto Grande ; and only cleared up in time to enable us to see Bird Island, a most re-marl. sugar-loaf rock, standing right in the entrance of th< 1 :iy, after passing which we reached the anchorage ground in a few mii. A more convenient little harbour can hardly be imagined, 1 nearly surrounded with hills (or mountains as they may be called), which protect it from all winds save the westward, where Bird Island stands as a huge beacon, most admirably adapted for a light-house, and on which it is to be hoped one will soon be placed. Tin deep water close to the shore on most sides of the bay, that where the THE VOYAGE OUT. 19 town is built being the shallowest ; and here some wooden jetties are run out, having very extensive coal and patent fuel depots close at hand where these combustibles are put into iron lighters, and sent off to the vessels. So beautifully clear is the water in the bay that you can see the bottom at a depth of from twenty to thirty feet, literally alive with fish of all kinds, but for which the people seem to care very little, either for home consumption or export, though there is no doubt that, in the latter direction, a large business might be done with profitable results. Porto Grande must become a most important coaling station, situated as it is midway between Europe and South America, and close to the African coast. Several important steam companies have already adopted it, viz., the Royal Mail (Brazil), the General Screw, the Australian, as also the South American, and General Steam Navigation Company, whilst occasional steamers are, likewise, glad to touch at it. At the period at which I am writing, the Great Britain was the last that coaled here, on her way to Australia. In order to meet this increased demand, a proportionate degree of activity and exerticn is observable on shore ; and a large number of iron lighters, carrying from fifteen to forty tons each, are now in constant requisition, loaded, and ready to be taken alongside the steamers the instant they cast anchor. Unfortunately there is a very poor supply of water, the want of it having been the occasion of frequent emigra- tion in the history of the islands ; but it is understood to be attain- able at a slight expense ; and a small outlay conjointly made by the steam companies might not only procure a plentiful provision of this all-necessary element, but also other conveniences, essential to the comfort of passengers. There is no doubt that, as the place pro- gresses, supplies of meat, fruit, and vegetables will be forwarded thither from the neighbouring islands, which are so productive that there is a considerable export of corn ; and the cattle are numerous. Until lately fowls were only a penny a piece ; and turtles abound. Hitherto there has been no regular marketable demand for such things ; but one, and a large one too, is henceforth established, from the causes assigned, and will doubtless be regularly and economically supplied. The labourers here are chiefly free blacks and Kroomen, from the coast of Africa, most of whom speak English, and chatter away at a great rate, as they work in gangs, with a kind of boat- swain over them, who uses a whistle to direct their toil the movements of all the race of Ham to the days of Uncle Tom, being seemingly susceptible of regulation to musical noise of some sort or other ; whether the '' concord of sweet sounds," or 20 BRAZIL AND THE EIVER PLATE, what would appear to be such to more refined ears, does not greatly matt Bub for want of vegetation in its neighbourhood, a more picturesque little bay than Porto Grande can hardly be conceived. Tower- ing a short distance above the town, is a kind of table moun feet high; and at the opposite side, forming the south- entrance, is another very lofty one, remarkable n- *i"g the colossal profile of a man lying on his back, a la Pronut ' has his visage towards heaven, wherein there are generally soaring vultures enough to devour him up were he a trifle less tender than volcanic granite. The featurea are perfect, even to the brows; and a very handsome profile it makes, though it doc appear that any tropical yEsohylus has yet Co il t.> 'nimblest legendary, much less (pic. purpose. On the ll ground, forming the right side of the bay, looking towards the town, is a neat little monument, erected to the lamented lady of Colonel Cole, who died here on her way home from India. Ti she lies is, from its quietude and seclusion. ' for such a ng-place, there being a small, conical hill l>ehind, with a cot or two near, and a sprinkling of vegetation on the low gr ecn, serving to " keep her memory green " in the mind of i an ocean voyager in his halt at this half-way house i the younger and th'' < M. This little town was thrown Lack sadly by the epidemic which afflicted it in 18- r >0 and decimated the population. During its tinuance Mr. Miller, one of the few Kn^'lish . did so much in assisting the inhabitants as to elicit from t! ft of IVrtuiral the honour of a knighthood, in one of the first orders in her dominions. It requires no small degree of pa' ropy I the development of a place like this, labouring, as it under such great natural difficulties, nnd win : brought from a distance, there not IH or n blade of gra nuthiir_r but dry, arid sand, or a burnt-up kimi Undoubtedly, the iines; and tl months of blowing, rainy weather, which is the on' -els might l>c subjected to inconvenience whilst coalii.. outherly winds drive up a crood :\ into the bay. There . Mr. Kendall, who h; : inch islands into notice, ami into con.jrirative civilization ; and, l>y so dointr, has many times over reimlmr.-ed this country in the erst of 1 d of 400 a year, saying nothing of THE VOYAGE OUT. 21 {lie services lie has performed to shipping, in the ordinary discharge of his duties. Cape Verds are a very numerous family of islands, called after a cape on the African coast (originally named Cabo Verde, or Green Cape, by the Portuguese), to which they lie contiguous, though at a considerable distance from each other in some cases. All are of volcanic formation one, that of Fogo, or Fuego, once very celebrated as being visible, especially in the night time, at an immense distance at sea. The islands generally do not possess any very attractive points, being unlike Madeira and the Canaries in this respect, as well as in extent of population, that of the latter being four or five times more numerous than the others say about 200,000 in one, 40,000 in the other case, though some statements make the inhabitants of the Verds considerably more. The islands r.vo occasionally subject to shocks of earthquakes ; and there was rather a strong one at Porto Grande the night before we left, supposed on board our vessel to be thunder, from the noise it made, though we were not aware until next day that a shock had been felt on shore. The chief product is salt, a valuable article for vessels trading to South America, though it is here manufactured by the somewhat primitive process of letting the sea-water into the low- lands, where the sun evaporates it. Though Porto Grande, in St. Vincent, is the great place for shipping, and as such almost the only place of interest for passengers in transit, Ribera Grande, in St. Jago, the principal island, and most southerly of the group, is the chief town, though it is at Porto Playa (often touched at by ships on the Indian voyage) that the Governor General resides, particularly in the dry season. The island second in importance, in point of size, is St. Nicholas, where are some small manufactories, in the shape of cotton-stuffs, leather, stockings, and other matters. The orchilla weed, however, is the great object of governmental interest, and its monopoly is said to yield some 60,000 per annum ; the same \vise policy that grasps at that interdicting the manufacture of wine, though grapes grow in profusion, and are of excellent quality for the production of a very acceptable beverage. December 31s, 18G7. The last day of the old year is an event that calls for reflection and particularly at sea, when the mind is generally more open than elsewhere to receive impressions, and free to take into review the past to enquire how the time has been spent. Few of 22 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. us, probably, can answer this question satisfactorily, but at all events it is desirable to make the enquiry. There is no postman's knock at the door, no friends to see, nor any to seek us out. Our little world is the .ship on which we are sailing, and those within it, tin 1 greater part of whom have been utter strangers to each other previous to embarkation. Selfishness under such cir- cumstances finds its level, or is confined within N narrow bounds, and a common instinct draws every one together, until at the end of the v< h' .-n those who are only passe nun-- port, And go each on his several mission, few in all liklihood ever to meet again in tin ir various walks in life. Most leave friends behind, whom they look forward to rejoining, or they have friend* to welcome them in the new countries to which they speeding their way. The great ocean brings strikingly home to us the wondrus works of the Almighty Kuler of the 1'iiiverse. and the littleness of man himself. Again, we are apt to forget the immensity of the ocean, which, as compared with the land, is computed at 145J million of statute; miles against ">1 million squ 'iite miles of land, or a total of both of 19G' millions. A linlr incident occurred this morning in our meeting the screw steamer Uruguay (which signalised twenty days out from the River Plate), one of the Liverpool line of >l earners, making her wa Vincent to coal, and she will, no doubt, report us at home. Time did allord opportunity for exchanging news, which would have been very acceptable on both .-ides. We also pa-sed an American ship steering northward, being now in the track of vessels homeward bound, ICT 30' north latitude and 26 30' east longitude ; a line steady breeze driving us. with the aid of the screw, fully eleven knots an hour. THE VOYAGE OUT. 23 January 4#A, 1868. We have crossed the line, gone through the variables, and are in the south-east trades. The air is cool and pleasant, and the ship making nearly twelve miles an hour, with a smooth sea and little motion the perfection of sailing. There is a freshness about the Southern hemisphere which I have always enjoyed. Steady breezes and a clear sky, with light fleecy clouds. We passed several vessels yesterday standing to the northward, amongst them a fine Yankee screw corvette, which hoisted her number, but she was not in our signal book. Less than another week of this weather will take us into Rio de Janeiro, in somewhat over 20 days, which will be a very good passage, and we have certainly been very much favoured in having fair, moderate weather, with scarcely any rain, and no squalls. The great advantage of steam over sailing ships is not only much quicker passages, but running out of calms or variable winds, and making a straight course to the point of destination. January 10th, 1868. We made Cape Frio light, off Rio de Janeiro, about midnight, and came into harbour early this morning, twenty-one and a half days from Falmouth. After the usual formalities in connection with the health and custom-house departments, we steamed up to the coal island, and were soon moored alongside, ready for coaling and discharging cargo. There were fewer ships in the bay than I ever remember to have seen. Her Majesty's store-ship Egmont was lying there, and one or two other vessels of war. A splendid Spanish frigate, the Blanca, which had partici- pated in the bombardment of Valparaiso, steamed out of harbour as we came in, but whither bound no one could say. Ongoing on shore I found the landing place not much improved, and the custom-house formalities had :M BRAZIL AND THE RIVEIi PLATE. increased in rigour, extending even to a charge on the small quantity of luggage required for a change whiU: on shore. It is a mistake in an enlightened country like I'.ra/il to .subject ; TS to such ab>urd regula- tions, which can bring in very little revenue and the country a had name. In other iv>prcts little or no restriction is experienced in ; or in mi the >liip, either day or night. \\V found the QfiWfl from tin- scat of war unsatisfactory as iviranU it> !! ami, what wa> wor>e. we learned that the cholrra raging at Buenos Ayr- i liver Plate lieing placed in quarantine on arrival at l!ii; hut tin- latter city was healthy, notwithstanding the gr. which, < luring the two dav> we remained in harbour. iiMt intense, the thermometer in the shade b. in- ,.\vr 90. Working all night enabled the steamer to be ready to start again on Sunday morning, the li'th Janti. when weagain sailed iroin IU-M.II our wav to the Jliver. THE CITY OF MONTE VIDEO, SEEING the accounts at Rio were not encouraging, I was advised to delay my trip southward, but as the River Plate was my ultimate destination, and my business press- ing, I was desirous to reach Buenos Ayres as quickly as possible, taking Rio Janeiro on my return. So I con- tinued on board the steamer, which left Rio on Sunday morning, the 12th January, 1868, and we came to anchor in Monte Video harbour at 1 p.m. on the 16th a very good passage of four days and a few hours. The weather had been hot during the passage, giving us a foretaste of what we might look for here. The health inspector did not come off to us for three hours, a very annoying delay after the captain of a steamer has done his best to get quickly to his port, and to whom, as well as to his owners, hours are of consequence ; but not so to officials in these countries. I believe I sur- mised correctly that the health officer was at dinner when we arrived, that he Avould take his siesta, and then come to look after us. As it was then getting past business hours, I preferred remaining cool and quiet on board the ship, but several of our passengers went on shore, and passed the night there, as it is difficult to get off after dark. The budget of news we received from the agents, who came on board after the health visit, made me wish I had taken the wise advice of Rio D 26 BRAZIL AJTD THE RIVER PLATE. friends. The cholera was raging at Buenos Ayres and throughout the Argentine Republic, and appeared to be bad enough at Monte Video, in addition to which a revolution had broken out at Santa Fe against the Government, the rebels having actually got possession of Uosario, as well as some portion of the railway, whose metals they had partly torn up atone of the bridges, throwm" 1 them into the river below. It is difficult to o account for this kind of wanton mischief unless it was to show their contempt for civilized means of transit, for having reached Rosario, their poliev >hould have 1 to keep the line open as a means of retreat in ease ot'n and then to have taken up the rails to imped.- tr- who might be following them. I found Mr. and Mrs. \Yheel- wrui-ht at tin- Orii-ntal Hotel. Mont*- Video, anew and handsome building erected since my last visit, and worthy any city in Europe, but unfortunately several of the inmates died of cholera there and it was afterwards !. Tin- Oriental was full when we arrived, but we found comfortable quarters at the (Iran 11 ano, also a large and handsome edifice lat- ly built, nor can anything more strongly mark the advance of Monte Video than these two hotels in addition to those previously exi>rinLr. The impressions conveyed in my former narrative as to the development of Monte Video were favourable, but I hardly expeeted to Bee the place grown half as large again since that time, which certainly is the 0886. Building of late year- h:i- taken 'aordinary proportions here, and the price paid fur choice spots in the city is something fabulous. Then airain the streets have been all paved and fln-jucd roughly enough it must be confessed, but still thev appear to answer the purpose for the peculiar descrip- tion of traffic over them, and are a irreat improvement THE CITY OF MONTE VIDEO- 27 upon the sand and mud which existed before. During the few days I remained at Monte Video, everything was in a very miserable state, the mortality increasing and the telegrams from Buenos Ayres quite awful. I therefore resolved to return to Rio Janeiro, and wait a more favourable moment for prosecuting my mission. The heat was intense, and the minds of people so pre- occupied with the pestilence as to render it impossible to follow the object of my mission with any chance of success. The City of Limerick came up from Buenos Ayres on the morning of the 24th of January, and was released from quarantine in the afternoon, when Captain Peters came on shore, and his report confirmed my previous views as to returning to Rio; so at 5 p.m. I went on board with him. We got under weigh at sun- set, with a fresh breeze, and, passing Flores light, were off Maldonado light about 3 p.m. a nasty navigation, with the island of Lobos dangerously near, on which there ought also to be a light. Daylight took us to the open sea, and four and a half days' steaming brought us again into Rio harbour on the morning of Wednesday, the 5th of February, when we were put to quarantine in Avhat is called Three Fathom Bay, where we remained until the third morning, when we were released and steamed to the coal wharf. Precisely three months after my first arrival in Rio, I left it again to return to the River Plate, whence the pestilence had departed and things resumed more or less their usual appearance. Monte Video had, how- ever, been the scene of a dreadful tragedy the murder of General Flores in open clay and the subsequent terrible retribution which followed that catastrophe. A gloom hung over the country, heightened by the 28 BRAZIL AND THE IMVEK PLATE. impending l)ank cri>is. and it seemed a> it' the spirit of evil hud taken pc>e>Mon of the place. Whatever may liave been the limits or errors of General 1'lmvs, he i-ved a better fate at the hands of his countrymen. In forcing himself into power he only followed in t he- footsteps of others who had re>orted i> thi> unconstitu- tional mode of proceeding. 1 hiring his dictatorship the country was perfectly tranquil and highly p: perous, nor was a single life sacrificed l>y him. although knew he had many secret enemies. Ilis personal courage was undoubted and evinced in many a Moody encounter in Paraguay, where he appeared to wear a charmed lite, and had he been at all prepared ihe assassins might have found the old man more than a match for them. Altogether, this sad event has created a feeling in Mtntr Video which it will take long to recover from, nor is any confidence felt in tin- ability of the proent rule , rcome tin- ditliciK of their position. It is a great pity so tih< country and so fair a city should be sacrificed to objects of mere personal ambition, and be the sport of ry discontented chief or partisan who chooses to set himself in array against the Government; but unfor- tunately this is too much the case, nor do the people themselves rise to put down Mich a state of anarchy. In alluding to the new buildings erected at Monte Video I omitted the Bolsa or Kxrhangr, which is quite an ornament to the city, with its light, highly ornamented faeade. The interior is of a quadrilateral form, providing a spacious hall where the business of the place is carried on, with brokers' offices on the ground floor, the upper storey being devoted to a tribunal of commerce and other public purposes. The cost of the building is stated at about 160,000 hard THE CITY OF MONTE VIDEO. 29 dollars, or 32,000 sterling, an instance of public spirit hardly to be found elsewhere in South America. The only thing wanting to Monte Video is business, in which respect the contrast with Buenos Ayres is very much in favour of the latter. Nevertheless, the banks have gone into considerable extravagance in the way of architecture, the Italian Bank being conspicuous by a superfluity of marble. Indeed, the facility for issuing notes has evidently led to expenditure in " bricks and mortar " to an extent that must have greatly embarrassed the managers of these institutions when called upon to meet their paper in gold. As to the cause of the money crisis there cannot be two opinions. In the first place, Government was wrong in allowing private issues of notes, and in the second place, in interfering when it came to a question of the banks meeting their notes in gold. A " forced currency," as it was then called, was sure to lead to a depreciation in the value of the paper and only postponed the evil day. It was a curious sight to see a guard of soldiers with fixed bayonets on duty round the doors of the Italian Bank, and a crowd of people waiting outside to receive specie payment of their notes. This process had already shut up several of the banks, and there was little hope of saving the Italian Bank, although great efforts were being made by the mercantile body to do so, as from the large number of Italian tradesmen doing business with the bank serious results might attend the closing of its doors. The wisest course would have been for all the banks to have followed in the wake of Maud and Co. and closed their doors when they found themselves unable to meet the pressure for gold. This would have brought about some remedial action on the part of Government with a view to self-preservation. 30 UK AXIL AXL Till! HIVKR PLATE. Amongst other public improvements at Monte Video is a large market, r. tramway for a few miles out of the city, and the commencement of a railway intended eventually to reach Durazno, but at proem only a few miles can be completed, owing to the want of capital, rnlortunately, the Government is not in a position to assist any enterpri.-e of this kind, spite of the 1. amount of Brazilian gold that has In en poured into the place during the war. Altogether, M>nte Video has an ordeal to go through that will require time and patience on the part of those who may have to conduct it> affairs. The Bay presents its usual animated appearance as irds the collection of ships and steamers and a large sprinkling of foreign men-of-war, whose ser\ have been much called into requisition of late, in order to protect foreign property ; but in other respects there is a total absence of vitality or of actual lm>im . THE CITY OP RIO DE JANEIRO. IT cannot be said in this case, as in most others, that " "Tis distance lends enchantment to the view ;" for the nearer you approach this far-famed city, the more Sensible are you to the beauties it unfolds. Strangers are always struck with the singularly picturesque appear- ance of the land approaching Rio de Janeiro, but once fairly in the bay they are bewildered at its great extent, surrounded on all sides by hills and mountains of every possible form, shape, and size, most of them clothed in luxuriant verdure to the summit. No picture or repre- sentation I have seen of the Bay of Rio does justice to the splendid panorama its scenery presents. Even those who have often approached it from the sea, so far from being tired of gazing, not only recognise old familiar points, but discover some new feature in the fairy-like landscape that had before escaped their notice. It varies very much according to the light and shade, sunrise, noonday, and sunset each possessing peculiar marks of delighting beauty. In my former description of Rio occurs the following passage : The city of Rio Janeiro extends some three miles along the south- west side of the bay, and being much intersected by hills, it is diffi- cult to get a good view of the whole range, unless from the top of one of the mountains near the city, such as the celebrated " Corcovado," which stands out like a pulpit on the plain below, and is some 2,500 feet perpendicular. The view from this pulpit on a clear day is 82 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. superb, and I should almost say unequalled in the world : the city, with its numerous divisions and suburbs below you the l>:iy, extending as far as the eye can reach, until lost in the plain below the Organ Mountain the sea, studded with numerous picturesque islands, with vessels looking like white specks upon it, and seen to a great distance all together form a most enchanting picture, and amply repay the toil of an ascent. The mountain is of granito rock, like all others in this country, but thickly wooded almost to tho summit, and you come out quite suddenly on the bare point b alluded to, so much resembling a pulpit. In consequence of tho tortuous formation of the streets, constructed round the base of tho hills, it is difficult to get more than a bird's-eye view of the city, on ground made by encroachment on the sea; consequently, tl are low, without drainage, and in several of tho b: collects and stagnates, to tho great detriment of health and comfort. Ilio itself is a bad copy of Lisbon strecte at _,'les, a 1 square facing the sea, and tho suburbs extending p tho hills which y where meet your eye. In Lisbon tli My wide, but 1 have built them so miserably narrow, that sen even one carriage can pass through, much less pass each ot it is evident that such vehicles wore never contemplated in tho original formation of these streets. The only way of the difficulty is for carriages coming into the city to take one line of streets, and those leaving it another, which they do, excluding omnibuses altogether from the principal thoroughfares. Imp' ments in this way were what I found most backward ; indeed there was a marked falling-off in such respect since I was last here, and there seems a great want of municipal government.* In many The Bank, Exchange, Custom House, and Arsenal (of late years greatly extended) are in the Rua Direita. Besides these, the chief public edifices and the Imperial Palace, a plain brick building ; the Old Palace, on the shore, used for public offices; a public hospital, alluded to elsewhere, erected in 1SH; a national library, with 800,000 printed volumes, and many valuable MSS.; and a well-supported opera house, which has supplied Europe with some very popular performers, especially in the ballet line, as witness that general favourite, Madame Celeste, who came from Rio, in 1830, with her sister Constance, another dan and appeared fur the first time in England at Liverpool, in the divertissement in Masaniello, Sinclair Ix-ing Auber's hero. The educational establishments are the Imperial College of Don Pedro II.; the College of St. Jose ; Schools of Medi- cine and Surgery ; Military and Xaval Academy ; and many public schools. It has also many scientific institutions; a museum rich in Orni '.ogy, and Mineralogy; and a fine botanic garden. Of cln; fifty, not of much external elegance, but most sumptuously decorated in the interior. THE CITY OF BIO DE JANEIRO. 33 places the pavement is execrable, and generally very bad, the diffi- culty having been probably increased by laying down mains for water and gas, the latter now in process of execution, and also to heavy rains having washed away many parts of the road, and other- wise caused much damage. Once this troublesome job is got through, it is to be hoped that some effective measures will be taken to put the streets and branch roads in order ; otherwise they will soon be rendered impassable. Coach and coach-spring making must be thriving trades here, especially with the immense increase that has taken place 'in the number of carriages and omnibuses ; and it is really wonderful how they stand the continual shocks they have to endure.* Government seems at last alive to the absolute neces- sity of doing something to improve the sanitary condition of the city, and also its internal organization, as they have lately got out some good practical English engineers, who I have no doubt will suggest an effective mode of dealing with present difficulties. If they do not adopt decisive measures the rate of mortality may be expected to augment fearfully in a dense population of 300,000 to 400,000 inhabitants, huddled together in some 15,000 houses, surrounded by impurities of every kind, not the least being the stagnant water * The inhabitants of Rio Janeiro are fond of carriages, but the specimens generally seen would hardly do for Hyde Park, being chiefly old-fashioned coaches, drawn by four scraggy mules, with a black coachman on the box, and a postillion in jack-boots on the leaders, sitting well back, and with his feet stuck out beyond the mule's shoulders. The liveries are generally gorgeous enough, and there is no lack of gold lace on the cocked hats and coats ; but a black slave does not enter into the spirit of the thing, and one footman will have his hat cocked athwartships, the other fore and aft ; one will have shoes and stockings with his toes peeping through, the other will dispense with them altogether. But the old peer rolls on unconscious, and I dare say the whole thing is pronounced a neat turn out. The Brazilians are great snuff-takers, and always offer their box, if the visitor is a welcome guest. It is etiquette to take the offered pinch with the left hand. Rape is the Portuguese for snuff, hence our word Rappee. They do not smoke much. The opera was good, the house very large, tolerably lighted, but not so thickly attended as it might be. The ladies look better by candle light, their great failing being in their complexions, the tint of which may be exactly described by the midshipman's simile of snuff and butter. The orchestra was good, many of the performers being blacks or mulattos, who are excellent musicians The African race seem to like music and generally have a pretty good ear Both men and women often whistle well, and I have heard the washerwomen at their work whistling polkas with great correctness. I was amused one evening on going out of the opera when it was half over : offering my ticket to a decent-looking man, he bowed, but refused it, saying that men with jackets were not allowed in the house. Elves. 34 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE, in the streets. Xo exact census has ever been taken of the popula- tion of Rio Janeiro, which is generally believed to be between the two figures above given. There is a migratory population, but the accumulation of humanity of every race and colour, contained in some of the large dwelling-houses, is something extraordinary. As before observed, nature has done much for this country, and if the natural facilities of Rio Janeiro were properly availed of, and 1 improvements carried out with energy and spirit, it might bo ren- dered one of the finest and most luxuriant places within the tropics.* The opportunity is now open to them ; the Government possess ample means, and it is just a question whether measures of progress are to be effectively achieved, or the city to be abandoned to its fate. The great evil attending all improvement in Brazil is an undue appreciation of native capability and a disparagement or mistrust of those whoso practical experience would enable them to grapple with the difficulties that surround them a kind of little jealousy or dis- trust that prevents their availing themselves of opportunities thrown in their way to carry out undertakings necessary to the well-being of the country : nor can they understand the principle on which such things are regulated in England, still less the magnitude of operations carried on there and in many other parts of Europe. Yet the time seems to be coming when these principles will be better understood here, and when the application of English ca; towards the improvement of the country may be safely and legiti- mately brought to bear. I quote tliis in order to point out the increase of population and improvements which have been carried The population of Rio, on the arrival of the royal family, did not amount to 50,000, but afterwards rapidly augmented; so that in 1815, when declared inde- pendent, the number had nearly doubled, and now is estimated at about 400,000 with the suburbs and the provincial capital of Nitherohy, on the opposite shore of the Bay. This increase is partly to be ascribed to the afflux of Portuguese, who have at different times left their country in consequence of the civil commotions which have disturbed its peace, as well as of English, French, Dutch, German, and Italians, who, after the opening of the port, settled here, some as merchants, others as mechanics, and have contributed largely to its wealth and importance. These accessions of Europeans have affected a great change in the character of the population, for at the commencement of the century, and for many years after- wards, the blacks and coloured persons far exceeded the whites, whereas now they are reduced to less than half the inhabitants. In the aggregate population of the empire, however, the coloured portion is still supposed to be treble the white. THE CITY OF RIO DE JANEIRO. 35 out in the city since it was written, and amongst which may be enumerated : The paving of streets, drainage works, &c. Lighting the city with gas. Increased number of omnibuses, private carriages, and conveyances of all kinds. Public gardens and ornamental squares. Railways and tramways. First, as regards the number of inhabitants, it is difficult to arrive at correct figures in the absence of a census, but according to the municipal authorities, the population of Rio and the suburbs (which comprise a circuit of many miles) is now about 600,000. If build- ing be any criterion, the increase of population must be very considerable. Since the period to which I allude, the city has extended itself in every possible direction, for without actually climbing the mountains there is a limit to building ground. The new streets are wide, and many of the new buildings exhibit a beautiful style of architecture, very suitable to the climate, especially in the suburbs. The number of shops has largely increased, and they are generally nicely decorated. Some public markets have been built, such as the Gloria, Harmonia, &c. Property has also greatly risen in value, and fabulous prices have been paid for land in the city favourably situated. The paving of the streets has also been carried out most efficiently. All the leading thoroughfares in and out of the city are now well paved, and in this respect the road from the Public Gardens to Bota Fogo would compare advan- tageously with any in Europe, that portion passing through the Cattete being a perfect specimen of good paving. As to the drainage works, they speak for themselves to those who recollect what Rio was twenty 36 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. P8 back, and the names of 1> and Gotto will long be remembered as public benefactors in thi> part of the world. I had not time to examine the-e i:: v works in detail, but shall avail of an opportunity on my IN turn to do so. Gas has been most su -i -.-fully intro- duced, both as regards quantity, quality, and u-efuli and it must have been an enormous saving of trouble and expense in a country where so many lights are required, and which was formerly dependent on oil lamps and candles. Xot only is the city well liirh but every suburb, miles in ally adding to comfort and security. Under these circum- stances it will hardly be a matter of surprise that the company pays a very good dividend. It ha- rather a curious effect on some of the country roads to see gas lamps peeping out from the thick folia-v <>f tropical plants, as if in competition with the tire-Hie- dancing about. Rio positively swarms with omnibuses, carr \u\ Tilburys. The former are plain enough in appeara. but are drawn by four mules at a good speed, The carriages, which are manufactured on the spot, are generally very superior in quality, with a couple of mules or horses, and the Tilbury is a kind of cal> with er, to hold one person with tin driver. T! considering the distances traversed, are on the whole moderate, although charges in this iv-peet are com- plained of. The Public Gardens have hmi very much improved since I was last here, and under the shade of the trees it is very pleasant to sit and admire the beauty of the scenery presented by the surrounding hill-, and the view of the bay in front, the busy city shutout, and everything in quiet repose save the rumble of carri passing along the Streets. Another public garden has THE CITY OF BIO DE JANEIRO. 37 been established in the square called Praga da Constitu- icao, where there is a fine statue of the first Emperor Dom Pedro proclaiming the independence of the Empire. A still larger square, called the Campo de Santa Anna, might advantageously be converted to a similar purpose, and would form probably the most extensive area of this kind in the world, affording shade and shelter from the rays of the sun to thousands of citizens who have to cross it. At present, near the public fountains, it is occupied by laundresses, and in certain spots rubbish is thrown, but other parts are being planted, especially near the Senate House, the War Office, and those of Public Works and Foreign Affairs, the Museum and the new Mint, the latter one of the finest buildings in Rio. The municipal taxes are few, and it is not easy to find a surplus to be employed in ornamental works. As regards the railways, I must reserve my notice of them till my return from the Plate, as at pre- sent my sojourn in the Empire is limited to a couple of days in the capital. The terrible ravages of the cholera in the River Plate brought me back to Rio de Janeiro sooner than I had contemplated, as there was nothing whatever to be done down there under such circumstances. At one period both town and country places were threatened with absolute decimation, and the daily tales of horror exceeded almost anything on record. In many cases, when no one could be found to bury the dead inside ranchos, or cottages, they were set fire to as the only way of disposing of the bodies therein. In the Province of Buenos Ayres alone the loss of life is computed at 25,000, and other provinces suffered almost in an equal ratio, so that the actual loss of life and property in the 38 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. Argentine Republic mu>t Lave been something enonr. In the lianda Oriental the losses were severe, and at one time the mortality at Monte Video itself almost as great as at Buenos Ayrcs. Farms were in many cases abandoned, and sheep and cattle left tonam at large; crops rotted in the ground, growers of fruits and Mes were ruined, the markets for th< - ducts being closed, and their entrance into the town prohibited. In fact it appeared as if the destro\ angel was passing over the devoted land; nor do I believe, from all I could learn on the spot, that cho! was the only form of disease. It rather resembled fill destruction of the I>raelites. wh- and Aaron "stood between the li\' 1 the dead." How soon, however, such fearful visitations are forgot Except from the general appearance of mourning win n I returned to the River Plate about i and the crowded state of the cemeteries, no one could imagine that Buenos Ayres and Monte Video h: through such a fearful ordeal. Everyth t on as usual, and people looked after their farms and their merchandise as if nothing had happened, though doubt- less many feared the return of the hot season, before which very little will ha\ . done in the way of sanatary precaution. That the cholera will beeoi: permanent -visitor in tl. P :ns unli! are to judge from its erratic course in otl. s of the world, but no one can say that the scourge will not prevail until the cities and towns are < iv.l and drained. The climate itself is healthy enough, but then this is no safeguard again>t epidemic.-:, which h. their origin in impurities allowed to accumulate until cities become pest-houses. On my return from the River Plate, in the beginning of THE CITY OF RIO DE JANEIRO. 39 February, I availed myself of the opportunity to ramble about the city and suburbs, to visit old friends, and to go over the railways, an account of which will be found under its proper head. The weather was still very hot, with frequent heavy thunder storms, some terrifically grand more so than I ever remember during a two years' residence here. From my room window, at the Hotel dos Estrangeiros, I could see the whole heavens lighted up with frequent flashes, and now and again portions of the bay and of the mountains stood out as if from a sea of fire. Then the awful crash of the thunder, followed by instant and utter darkness, and with re- verberations shaking the house to its foundations, all combined to heighten the grandeur and sublimity of the scene. As for sleeping in the midst of such tur- moil, it was simply impossible. Both February and March were very wet, stormy months, and on one occasion some large trees were blown down about the city, and much damage done to the roofs of houses, many of which are not very w ell protected from such visitations. Similar weather fol- lowed me to San Paulo, but on my return to Rio, after again visiting the River Plate,the weather was delightfully cool, fine, and pleasant, equal to the most agreeable por- tion of our summer weather in Europe. There is no doubt the climate of Rio de Janeiro is a healthy one, and it is a striking fact that scarcely any cases of epidemic have occurred since the sewerage of the city was completed, nor any visitation of cholera, notwith- standing sick and wounded were constantly arriving from the seat of war, and that the quarantine was merely nominal. I am convinced the very thunder storms to which I have alluded tend to purify the atmosphere. The deluges of rain of course exercise a 40 BBAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. great cleansing power, and it has been noticed in years when thunder storms did not prevail that much sickness followed. One requires to go closely over the city before he finds out improvements which have been effected in Rio, which are nowhere so palpable as when passing through the great public thoroughfares. "\Vith such a number of narrow intersecting streets, no adequate idea of the size or extent of the city can be formed until some of the hills about it are ascended, such as that of Santa Theresa. It is, however, from tlu- top of the Corcovado that its dimensions are most strik- ing, from whence also the spectator can form a fail- notion of the extent of the bay. I have before remarked on the defective state of the landing-places, that most used, near the custom-house, being a very dirty, dilapidated wooden jetty, about which the rabble of the city seems to collect, and it is always a scene of much uproar and confusion. There is quite a Babel among the boatmen and their black hangers-on. There are some other landing-places, with stone steps, in front of the large square, whence the ferry-boats across the bay take their departure, bur these are not very convenient, and the untidy state of the public market which stands here is a disgrace to the municipality. Indeed nothing can be more derogatory to a large city like Rio de Janeiro, possessing the finest harbour in the world, than such landing places, which create a most unfavourable impression on strangers. The Custom-house, with its wharves and warehouse, the Marine Arsenal and Building-yard, together with the private wharves, occupy a large portion of the water frontage, but there is still sufficient space left, if it were properly laid out, as I believe is intended before very long, for decent landing-places for the public. Speaking THE CITY OF RIO DE JANEIRO. 41 of the Custom-house, the source from whence a large portion of the revenue of the country is derived, it is an unsightly building, though immense sums of money have been spent, and are still being spent, in order to obtain adequate accommodation for the increasing trade of the port. Hydraulic lifts and machinery of every possible kind are in course of erection, and a few years will doubtless see the Rio Custom-house take its stand as the finest building of the sort in South America The old Pra$a do Commercio, or Exchange, with its dismal vaulted roof, remains unchanged since my last visit, but when the Custom-house is completed I believe it is in- tended to construct an exchange more worthy of the place, with suitable accommodation attached. This, as well as a foreigners' club, is much required at Rio, where the foreign population is numerous and influential, and ought to be represented in a manner consistent with its importance. When I lived here in the years 1848 and 1849, there was much sociability, amongst the English residents at all events but this appears to have quite died out, and even ceremonial visits are now rarely exchanged. The only society worthy of the name existing in Rio is that associated with the diplomatic circle, which is of course more or less exclusive in its character. I must never- theless notice one institution in which I found a great change for the better. I mean the English Church. A good deal of money has been spent in connection with this edifice, entirely raised by private subscriptions, and certainly it has been well spent. The recess built out for the communion table is very pretty, and the organ is well placed, in a line with the body of the church. There is a good choir, the whole arrangements being- very complete, and the service efficiently performed. The Rev. Mr. Preston is chaplain 42 BRAZIL AXD THE RIVER PLATE. \Yhilst in Rio, I went to the Palace of Sao Christovao, and had the honour ofbeini: pre>entrd i the Emperor, Avhoni I v,-as .ulad to see looking well, hut thinner than :i I last saw him, fifteen \ MCC. The Palace is well situated, on a ri>iii.ir ground, with a #.>od pros- pect, and ap . he comfortable enough, hut with- out:, -ijeous display. The Court ifl very simple in its habits, and the democrat * of the people render access to it comparatively easy. With regard to politics, the Government ha- lly an opposition party to contend with, hoth in Chamber and in the Senate, but without impeding the regular proceedings of these bodies which, on tin wh are conduct h great decorum, an 1 the >; are very fully and fairly reported,* occupying whole daily papers. The Jornal -till stands pre-eminci it in the Ki<> press as the Tim<*. in . of the Jira/ilian Emp The }>olitical discussions in the press, which are p fectly free, are often pursued with considerable acrimony. At the same time there is a degree of retieu. rv- able Avhich some of our new-paper writer- would do \vi-ll to imitate. Jiray.il does not lack parlianu-n orators or able statesmen, hut public bu>in- .an- melled with too much ot red lapery a- at huiiu'. current of popular feeling does not run very dn-p 1'roui the fact that the bulk of the community are too much absorbed in their hu.-iness occupations to lease them much time for political discussions, to which a large portion of Englishmen devote thein-el\e> heeau-e they have little else to do. It must not, however, be in- * The difference between reporting proceedings of the Brazilian and English legislatures is that the latter appear daily, whilst it takes many eches in the Brazilian Chambers are published, and fre- quently a large double sheet is issued to make up for arrears. THE CITY OF RIO DE JANEIRO. 43 ferred from this remark that Brazilians are indifferent to what passes inside the walls of the Senate or of the Chamber. The support the Government has received in carrying on a long and costly war proves that the honour and well-being of the Empire is as dear to them as to the most patriotic people. I am glad to have to record the abolition of passports in Brazil unless specially asked for. I had occasion to notice the inconvenience caused on a late trip to the River Plate, and it is gratifying to see that Brazilian statesmen appreciate the march of events in this respect, as I trust will also soon be the case in facilitating the despatch of passengers' luggage. As a rule, passengers do not carry with them articles subject to duty, though, of course, a surveillance in this matter is quite necessary. At Buenos Ay res there is a custom station on the mole or landing place where passengers can bring their luggage, which is at once examined and passed, thus saving much time and trouble. The Post-office is on the whole pretty well managed and letters are promptly delivered on arrival of the mails, The building is, however, quite unsuited to the requirements of so large a city as Rio de Janeiro, and I learn that it is intended to erect a fine new post-office in a square facing the Bay, which will be a great convenience to the public. I found the population on the opposite side of the bay had not increased as much as I expected, although the facility of crossing by the large American ferry steamers is a great convenience. Nitherohy is a large straggling place, supposed to contain a population of about 20,000, but there are many houses uninhabited, nor do the Rio people show much partiality for a residence there even at a much less rent. Some handsome villas have 44 BRAZIL AND TIIK ISIVKU 1T.ATE. i built there, and it is intended to light the plarc with gas, which would be a decided advantage to the residents. Some of the islands in the u]>]>rr ]>:irts of the bay are now cultivated and inhabited, and numerous small craft ply between them and Rio de Janei n >, 1 > ring- ing down fruits and vegetables, In the appendix to this volume will be found sundry official documents and statistic! information in reference to the resources and commerce of Pra/il. Tin institutions of the Empire are verv fuv<>ural>le t<> m<-r- can tile development, and the great pro giv.-* made within the past half century is indicative of a highly prosperous future. THE WAR IN PARAGUAY, LEAVING for the moment the narrative form, I devote a chapter to this lamentable struggle, which has entailed such serious consequences on Brazil, and which at the time I am writing is yet undetermined. Writers have differed much as to the origin of the war, but none have shown how it could have been avoided. I may observe en passant that so far from having entertained any prejudices against Paraguay, my sympathies have always been in favour of that country as evinced during my visit to the River Plate in 1853, at which period the elder Lopez was alive, and there appeared to be dawn- ing in the future, not only an era of internal develop- ment for a very fine, fertile territory, but also a relaxa- tion of the iron rule under which the people had so long groaned, by encouraging, to a limited extent it might be, commercial relations with other countries. Lopez had joined Brazil in putting down the tyranny of Rozas and in restoring a free government to the Argentine provinces ; the rivers were to be opened by treaty to all nations, and an era of peace and prosperity appeared to be the natural result of these arrangements. The visit of the younger Lopez to Europe, it was thought, would have instilled into his mind the fact that all the wealth he saw there emanated from commerce, and that his first object would be to render Paraguay a 46 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. commercial country. Unfortunately, however, lie seems to have become more enamoured with the martial atti- tude of Fraiu-c tlian anything ad determined on hi> return home to develop the military instrjul of the commercial resources of Paraguay. His ambition was centered in organizing a large army, fortifying the river approaches to Asuncion, and creating a anal] but etheient steam fleet. The experience of the past was thrown away, and on succeeding his lather in the dictatorship, it became evident that his policy was t > la- one >f :-andi-i inent. if it meant anything at all, and that, iii other respects Paraguay was to continue isolated from her neighbours and to .Maud : .11 participation in the business of the world. ]' hud no cnen nor was there any < ro trouble her; her territorial position secured her safety from attack, and it i> impossible that all this military ami naval preparation on the part of Lopez could have been merely intended for purposes of self-defence. The truth is that Lope/ had always coveted that portion of terr; led tin- Missions, formerly a great stronghold of t but now part of the Argentine Conieder nd the possession of this would bring him close upon I where the sea port of Monte Video afforded a tempting prize. At the same time, all this involved the pro>; of a collision with other Powers, again>t which it necessary to provide, and this 1 believe to he the true -on for the great military preparations of }.]/.. I have already >.i;d tlur IV joined with I5rax.il in putting un end to the tyranny of Ilo/as and entered into a treaty by whi-h the navigation of tl:.- upper rivers was to be I the independence of I'niguay to be recogiii>ed. If ever I5rax.il had any sini design on the latter State this was the time when THE PARAGUAYAN TVAR. 4? she would have been most likely to assert it, but no such disposition was evinced. On the contrary, it was the wish as well as the interest of Brazil to keep Monte Video a free port, and the rivers open to the flags of all nations. Unfortunately for the peace of South America, Monte Video has never had a strong and independent Government, and during the presi- dency of Berro disorders broke out on the frontier. The persons and properties of Brazilian subjects were exposed to the inroads of lawless marauders from Uruguay, until at length the patience of the people of Kio Grande was exhausted, and they threatened to take up arms in their own defence, if the Im- perial Government did not at once interfere for their protection. This statement has been personally confirmed to me by large landed proprietors who were themselves on the spot and suffered from the causes here referred to. Brazil was, therefore, compelled to send troops to the frontier and to follow the marauders into Uruguay, until such time as she could obtain fresh guarantees from a Government which had proved itself totally incompetent to deal with the matter. Then came the Colorado movement, headed by Flores, and further complications ensued, which might have been settled by the timely intervention of foreign Governments, but the men in power were quite deaf to all friendly remonstrances. The flag of Brazil was grossly insulted, trampled on in the streets of Monte Video, and the treaty with her publicly burnt. Recent melancholy occurrences in that city have shown what excesses can be committed from party spirit, and how difficult it was at the period I allude to, to avoid an armed intervention. How these acts affected the interests of Paraguay it is not easy to conceive. 48 BRAZIL AXD THE RIVER PLATE. Hraxil agreed to recognise the independence of Uruguay, and she left it in that condition, stronger than it had been for some -ly. It is true that about this time Lope/ had given notice to Bra/il that any interference in the a flairs of rruguay, or the entry of Brazilian troops into rruguayan ten-it would be considered ly him as a C'i*us lull! a ; impertinence that Brazil might well disivgard, as tin- rights of nations allowed reprisals for injuries rt and this was all Braxil carried in: . I'p t<> the point iiH-ntinncd Lope/ had. therefore, no real ostensible cause of war against Bra/il, but she stood in the way of the consummation of his ambit: designs, and so he made what he termed an interference in Uruguay the p; for setting legions in motion. Without any declaration of v he seized and took forcible possession of the d Marquis de Olinda whilst on a .!>le errand up the Iliver,with rarmirode Campos, tin- President of Matto Grosso on board, and has retained him piv since; he marched a division into Bra/il. and otrupu-d the frontier town of Uruguayana. simultaneou>ly sending his fleet down, no doubt to co-operate with his troops, but this was prevented by the gallant action of the lliachuelln, in which the Paraguayan navy was nearly destroy ed by the I'ra/ilians. The proceetrad of sending a large army by sea, it would ha\ :i better to have made a diversion by marching across the country ;ie interior of Paraguay, direct to Asuncion, lea\inir llumuita blockaded. Thus a large amount of mom y would have, been expended in Braxilian territory . Whether this would have hastened the conclusion of the war it is difficult to say, but the direct ad van t: in other ways would no doubt h; In-aMr. However, Brazil is not the only country that blundered in carrying on a distant war, as wr km>w to our cost. That they did not anticipate BO vigorous a resistance is certain, nor was it possible to suppose that any section of the Argentine people, wi. nationality had been grossly insulted, would h:. lukewarm, or have desired to make peace until the object of the struggle was accomplished. THE PROVINCE OF SAN PAULO. AVAILING of an opportunity to accompany a friend to this province, we left Rio on Tuesday, the 18th of February, on board the steamer Ptolemy, with a remarkably smooth sea, and a light, but cool breeze. We reached Santos early the following morning. The steamer was at once moored alongside an iron wharf, facing the Custom House, and Mr. Miller, one of the railway officials, came on board with the unpleasant information that the railway was stopped, owing to the heavy rains, which appeared to have prevailed here as at Rio. The town did not look very inviting under the influence of a hot sun, but Mr. Miller kindly offered us rooms at the station, where he himself lived, and made us very comfortable. There was every prospect of our being obliged to walk up to the top of the Serra, but fortunately, on the 20th, a telegram came to announce that the line would be opened to San Paulo the next morning, when we started with a small train, arrived at 2.33, and drove to the Hotel d'ltalia, where rooms had been engaged for us. The province of San Paulo has played a distinguished part in the history of Brazil, and has latterly attracted much notice from its production of cotton, in addition to the large caiantity of coffee grown and shipped from the port of Santos, both of which articles are expected to be greatly increased by the railway facilities. There .VJ BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. can be no doubt that the province offers splendid -cope for emigration, if properly applied, and this important subject will be specially treated of after I have collected together the requisite materials. Certainly tin- si/c, extent, and evident prosperity of the city Sao Paulo surprised me, no less than its superiority in most of the comforts and luxuries to places more favourably situated by their proximity to the sea ; but the large number of old churches, convents, colleges, and public in>ri rut ions date its origin from the time of tin: Jesuits, who must have been very industrious and Itby to have found the means for building MI eh huge places, with the object of perpetuating their order, and for tin- spread of tin- L'oman Catholic ivligion. I much regretted that the stoppage of the railway, and very unfavourable weather constant thunder storms, with deluges of rain prevented me travelling some distance into the interior, where the coffee and cotton plantations lie, but the account < received from others, who possess a thorough know- ledge of the localities, enable me to speak most highly of its resources. II is Kxcellency, Saldanha Marinho, the President of San Paulo, and who by his affaliility and lui>! habits has won the esteem and affection of the people, received me kindly during my stay hen-. He U ;l determined supporter of every practical inea>uiv having for its object the improvement of the city and of the province. Respecting the great work of tin- railway, on which so much of the future welfare of the province depends, I will endeavour to give a tolerablv ample description ; but to begin with, it may not be out of place to quote as follows from the- work of Mr. Seiillv, entitled " r.ra/il and its Chief Provinces ": " Passing over the Mugy river you arrive quickly at the foot of THE PROVINCE CF SAN PAULO. 53 the gorge formed by the two out-jutting spurs of the buttress-like mountain, and the black defiant ravine is suggestive of "anything but a railway course. Here the line climbs boldly up the side of the Mugy spur, at a usual ascent of one in ten, crossing mountain torrents, leaping gloomy chasms, cutting through solid rocks, holding hard on to every foot gained, until it attains a resting- place upon the table land, 2,600 feet high, after five miles of gigantic excavations, removing 1,100,000 cubic yards of granite rock and earth. Here we must give a slight idea of how this daring plan is utilised, which was at one time laughed at as an engineering im- possibility, and which even yet stands pre-eminent among similar works. This entire and almost straight ascent of upwards of five miles is divided into four " lifts " of about a mile and a quarter each, having a level platform of some 400 feet in length between them. On these lifts, as in general on all the line, the track is single, except at the upper half, where it is doubled to admit of the ascending and descending trains passing each other. At the upper end of each platform is placed a powerful stationary engine of 200 horse-power, whose two cylinders are 26 inches diameter and 5 feet stroke, calculated to haul up 50 tons at the rate of ten miles an hour, which are supplied by five Cornish boilers, three of which suffice for the duty. A steel wire rope, tested to a strength far exceeding the require- ments which will ever be made upon it, passes over a friction-wheel on each side of the fly-wheel drum upon which it is wrapped round, and, one end being attached to an ascending and the other to a descending train, it is intended to make the " lift " partially self- acting, as it now wholly is at one of the inclines which is not supplied with its stationary engine, the weight of the descending train drawing up the ascending one. Powerful breaks that will stop a train instantly are supplied to guard against a breaking down of any part of the machinery, or a rupture of the rope. From this short description our readers can form an idea of the mechanical contrivances for effecting the ascent. Throughout these wonderful inclines the most majestic and wild scenery is observed along the slightly winding way. On the third lift occurs a ravine still more gloomy than the rest, which is called the Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell) ; that, having a width of 900 feet, is crossed by an iron viaduct, which lies on rows of iron columns resting on stone piers 200 feet below in the centre of the line." 54 BRAZIL AKD THE RIVER PLATE. I have great pleasure in endorsing all Mr. Scully says as to the excellent qualities of the railway officials, and can also affirm that to Mr. Aubertin and Mr. Jluu-hinirs is due the extraordinary development that lias been effected in the production of cotton. THE SAN PAULO RAILWAY. I WILL now proceed to describe the railway in niy own terms, without reference to the statistics or the reports that have been published about it. My impres- sion on leaving the station' was that of setting off on an adventurous journey not merely ensconcing oneself in the corner of a railway carriage and taking a com- fortable nap. Curiosity was excited to the utmost, after the accounts I had heard, and the temporary stoppage of the line by recent heavy rains washing down some of the slopes of the cuttings rather added to the interest of a first visit. There was a tolerable amount of bustle at starting, but away we went about eleven o'clock, over low, swampy ground. For seven miles the rails run parallel with the old road to Santos, and the bridge at Cubitao (an arm of the sea) is passed, beyond which for a further distance of six and a half miles (making l\ miles to the foot of the Serra) it becomes a dense mass of forest and jungle, which it must be difficult to convert to any useful purpose ; indeed, the curse of the country is this mass of useless forest, only fit for the haunts of wild animals and reptiles. How they have hitherto been able to carry on the traffic between Santos and San Paulo is a mystery when we look at the country and miles of wood passed through. However, we are now in sight of the first rise of the mountain, which looks grim 56 BRAZIL AND Till-: KlYKK PLATE. enough, and the train comes to a stop at the stai ; ] mssing an open space of ground, on which stand* a house, built and formerly inhabited by the con- tractors, with almost a little village about it, occupied bv their staff, &c., where, 1 understand, eric!. often playew everything is going to wr and it' the land is not kept clear it will soon 1 jungle again : such is the quick growth of vegetation in this country and so rank does it become. The station at the foot of rra is a good substantial sort of house, the station master a young German, with a wife and family, very comfortable adjuncts in so lonely a spot ; and tin- hou>c was sur- rounded bv fowls and other live stock needful to la; wants. We stood contemplating the height we had to be c ending, which it did steadily enough, bringing Mr. Aubertin. the general in Captain Burton, her Majesty's con>nl. and some other notabilities of San Paulo. The former gentlemen returned with us, adding materially to the intciv.t and pleasure of the trip by their intelligent knowledge of all we had to see and pass through. Well, the signal is given, and we are off. mounting an incline of about 1 in 10 for a distance of some yards, where there is a curve, and we are shut out fr the lower level of the line, steadily ascending the mountain, until we reach the first lift, about I 1 , in! After a short dela hooked on the second lii't, and as we mount the scenery becomes grander, ihc shadows of the mountain- deeper, and the work be- comes heavier. 1 W&s surprised to find so many cun which are an additional strain on the wire rope. a> well r i ! > : j o "3 'C S5 THE SAN PAULO RAILWAY. 57 as an additional risk, requiring close attention to the break, where we rode in order to have a good view of everything. Mr. Fox, engineer-in-chief, and Mr. Welby, locomotive superintendent, were with us, and we got down to look over Fairburn's splendid stationary engines, which are of 200 horse-power, embedded in a granite foundation, about 40 feet deep, with five boilers to each, three being generally used. The curves con- tinue on the third lift, close to which, enterino* the o fourth lift, is the wonderful viaduct across a chasm in the mountain, which makes your head giddy to look down. The bridge is certainly a great engineering achievement, resting on iron pillars with a stone founda- tion, the centre being nearly 200 feet deep. We are accustomed to great altitude of railway bridges at home and elsewhere, but there is a peculiar aerial look about this one which makes one glad to be over it. At one point in this fourth section is a fine view of a deep valley behind us, the opposite mountain one dense mass of forest, and the scene is inexpressibly grand. To have made the lifts straight would have necessitated frequent tunnelling and added another half million to the cost of construction. On reaching the top of the Serra, a distance of about five miles from its base, the break is detached, a locomotive takes hold of the six carriages which have come up in two lifts, and away we whisk for some time through a thickly wooded country, for a distance of about 48 miles, stopping at several stations. Some miles before reaching San Paulo are the Campos, or level plains, covered with a short grass, and rather swampy, but no cattle are to be seen, owing, I believe, to the number of insects which fasten on them, causing sores, and being otherwise injurious. It is, however, a great relief to the eye, after the dense forests passed through, to come upon plains. ii 58 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. From San Paulo the line T on to Jundiahy, a distance of 44 miles, or ;i total length from Santos of 88 miles, the chief interest of course being centred in the gigantic works of the Serra. The San Paulo II nil- way is undoubtedly one of the- grandest works yet made with English capital in Brazil, and it is destined to play a very important part in the future development of this line province. Kiiirineerini: mistakes hu\v, undoubtedly, been made, and tin- want of a personal superintendence of the engineer-in-chief, at all events during the construction of the important works of the Serra, is amongst the complaints made by the Ilra/iiian Government, as also the manner in which tin- con- tract was e d It is al>o questionable whether another and less costly route could not ha\ selected to be worked by locomotives, instead of the old fashioned but dangerous lifts. However, fur the present, this is mere matter of controversy or opinion. The railway is made, though far from being complete or perfect, and it is evident that a considerable expen- diture has to be faced before sufficient traffic can be carried on to realise the expectations of directors and shareholders, few of whom know anything about the undertaking or are able to comprehend the difficuhiei it has still to pass through. 1 1 is curious that the real tmllic is only tapped at the extreme end of the line ( .lundiahv ). where <>nlv com- mences cotton growing, and the great coffee plantations are some XQ miles further on, to which district a private company is now trying to get the line' extended. OIK- advantage possessed by the exi-ting company will be in having their mileage rate for the bulk of their traliie over the whole of the line, and of course it will be un additional advantage to present shareholders if the line should be continued to Campinas, which is, 1 believ.-. a THE SAN PAULO RAILWAY 59 large and thriving place, the abode of many wealthy proprietors. Passenger traffic can only be limited for some time to come, from the absence of a resident population along the line; at the same time it will naturally increase between Santos, San Paulo, and the upper part of the Province, particularly when the line is extended in that direction. The stop- page of the line is between San Paulo and Jundiahy, where the cuttings have given way to some extent, a contingency, I fear, they will always be exposed to, from the heavy rains which prevail, and I believe I am justified in adding, the imperfect manner in which some of them have been constructed. Whilst expressing my admiration at the courage and enterprise of the resident engineer and superintendent, who jointly succeeded in getting the line opened, I cannot conceal from myself the difficulties they have still to overcome in order to carry on an adequate traffic and get the line accepted by Government. One thing is very certain, that had a deputation of shareholders been sent out to look over the intended line before fairly con- cluding the contract for making it, they would have returned so scared and frightened as to have led to an immediate dissolution of the company, and San Paulo would hardly have had its railway in this genera- tion, so far as English capital is concerned. I well remember the kind of awe with which I looked over the plans and sections of the line before it was commenced, nor has this effect been diminished by a personal inspec- tion of the works up to this place. That the railway will be a grand thing for the province there can be no doubt, and this consideration ought to render the Government lenient towards a company which, apart from its other difficulties, has suffered so much by mal- administration at home. 60 HIIAZIL AND THE RIVET? PLATE. In describing the works of the Serra, I have omitted to allude to the double rails which are laid near ap- proaches to the stationary engines, so that the trains can pass each other, which, of cour.se, they are constantly doing, one up and the other down, on the several lifts. I was at a loss also to understand how they could work their goods traffic to a large extent with the amount of trains running. I now find the latter applies only to the passengers, and that produce is dealt with -ly. collected at the top of the Serra, and ent down during the day, three waggon loads at a time, the waggons being collected to. at tin foot of the Serra, and taken on to the station at Santos as convenient, 11 arrangements necessitate a large amount of rolling stock and extra shed accommodation, which 1 1>< lu\< is about to be supplied. Another feature in the works of the Serra is the loose kind of material they have had to go through instead of granite rock, which they expected, the former being apt to crumble away from the effects of rain, although latterly tin' road has stood very well in this respect. Some of the embankmei. -ing the gorges of the mountains are almost perpendicular, and involved a heavy amount of labour and expense. It is quite frightful to look down them. Of course the traffic of the Serra can only be worked from sunrise to sunset, but a large amount of produce can be brought clown during that time. I have now to record a trip over the remaining portion of the line to Jundiahy, the terminus. An announcement had been issued that traffic would be resumed over the whole line on the 2nd March, but a continuance of wet weather caused further and serious impediment, so I availed of the kindness of the officials, who were making a survey of the state of the works, to go to Jundiahy in the best manner circumstances would THE SAN PAULO RAILWAY. 61 permit. We started about 8 a.m., on Tuesday, the 23rd March, in a carriage attached to the engine, hav- ing, amongst others, Mr. Aubertin, superintendent; Mr. Fox, engineer-in-chief ; the fiscal, or Government engineer ; the Postmaster-General, Captain Burton, and other persons, with some luggage belonging to them, and some small stores for the use of the line. My impression was that I had seen the heaviest works on the line, but this was a great mistake, as I soon found out. The first few miles were not of much interest, but afterwards, as we approached the mountain scenery, the view became very fine, the bold outline of the Jaraguay, a mountain where gold mines exist, but long since ceased working deep gorges began to open out, and huge hanging forests towered above us, in their wildest and most primitive form. At the first station I got on the engine with Mr. Fox, and certainly it is difficult to imagine a country less adapted to a railway making it against nature, as some one significantly observed. It is a succession of deep cuttings, high embankments, curves, and heavy gradients the whole distance, at times with an incline of 1 in 45, and only occasionally what may be termed a bit of straight road. It is really wonderful how people could be found to make such a railway in this country. Scarcely a human habitation to be seen along the whole distance, except the rough mud huts for persons connected with it; and about three stations between San Paulo and Jundiahy. The stations themselves are barely sufficient for the station master to live in, though probably adequate under present circumstances. At one of them (Beleni) a small quantity of cotton was stored, having gone there direct, but no means of forwarding it on at present. 62 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. The ordinary mule road to Jundiahy crosses and runs parallel to the railway for sonic distance, and a wretched state it appeared to be in deep mud holes and <|iiaL r mires, through which the poor mules have to struggle. I must now refer to some of our difficulties, resulting from the state in which we found the road. The fir>r actual gap occurs some seventeen or eii:hteen miles from San Paulo, where the river current has carried awav a large culvert, the rails and iron buwls (sleepers) attached to them hanging ided for some tw They were at work rebuilding another cnl\ "\\"e. had to leave the carriage, cross the stream, and, walking some little distance, to get to another engine. which with a ballast truck was waiting there. (^ went again, at times having to pull up or go slowly over slippery places, until we passed the tunnel, with water dripping from the roof. On the other side of tin tunnel occurs the most serious stoppage, the whole side of a huge hill having apparently moved forward, the advanced portion of it blocking up the road. SOUK; under current has raised the rails several feet in places, notwithstanding the immense piles of timber that have been driven in to prevent encroachment. The conclu- sion is that a mass of quicksands, swollen by the hea\y rains, has forced its way under the hill >ide and under the bed of the railway. The labour here will be N great, by having to remove the falling mass, and the uncertainty is when the movement may subside. The " mountain hi labour " has brought forth no u ridiculus mus" in this case. After walking past this obstruction, we again mounted on the ballast truck, and went along until we came to a place where the river had quite overflowed the rails, and the engine had to force its THE SAN PAULO RAILWAY. 63 way through two or three feet of water, of course at a very slow and cautious pace ; here they are raising the road so as to escape, if possible, future inundations. Once through this last impediment, we rattled along over a good hard bit of road at a good pace to Jundiahy, the end of our adventurous journey. The station is a little distance from the town, which stands on a hill, and after partaking of some solid refresh- ments, which we fortunately found ready at the Railway Hotel, in half an hour we were again on a ballast truck going through the same process of changing from one truck to another, walking over slippery ground, until we finally again joined the carriage on the opposite side of the broken culvert, before arriving at which a thunder storm came on, accompanied by torrents of rain, and most of us were thoroughly wet through. The storm continued nearly to San Paulo, but it is amongst the gorges of the mountains it comes down most furiously. It is not my intention to comment further on the errors that have been made in the construction of this railway. No doubt obstacles had to be met at every step ; nor can shareholders be supposed to know much about engineering details of this kind. They subscribe their money on the faith of a Government guarantee, believing in the estimates, and that of course the line will, under any circumstances, pay its working expenses. The late Mr. Brunei used to repudiate the existence of engineering difficulties. It was a mere question of money ; but I think had he surveyed the intended line of the San Paulo Railway he would have said both these points were involved, the result being that the original estimates are greatly exceeded, and the works still require a considerable outlay before they can be G4 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. permanently relied on. The thing certainly appears incredible, if it were not the fact, that to work u lino consisting almost entirely of short curves and heaw gradients, the directors should have sent out ri.irid locomotives suited to a first-class English railway, with- out even bogie frames attached, can: in.ir great wear and tear to both engines and rails. I quite believe that with suitable locomotives the line may In- safely and properlv worked, and it seems exactly a case in point for such engines as FairhVs. The question as to maintenance of way must always be a very important one; whether in such a mountainous country, subject at seasons to h rains and flooded rivers, and with a treacherous soil, the nature of the works is such as can be relied on. for unless this is the case, as the public journals of San Paulo justly observe, the real utility of the railway i< destroyed. Coffee growers and cotton planters I been looking to it as a sure and certain means of get- ting their produce down to Santos, and unless this cm be depended on they will have to resort to the old, cumbrous, and expensive mode of carrying it upwards of one hundred miles on the backs of mules as hereto- fore. It is a momentous question for this province whether or not they can depend on railway conveyance, which I think may fairly be looked for when the line becomes consolidated, but both shareholders and the Government must be prepared to make sacrifices of no common kind before this end is finally attained. That the officials and managers of the line in Ura/il are doing all they can is very certain, and it is for the company or the shareholders to provide them with cvervthinLr required to ensure the permanent success of the com- pany. They entered into a solemn contract with the Brazilian Government and the Provincial Government THE SAN PAULO RAILWAY. 65 here, which it is their duty to fulfil, no matter at what sacrifice, and the sooner the shareholders look their position in the face the better, instead of being guided entirely by directors, who could only appreciate their position if they came out in a body and personally inspected the line. One thing is very certain, that if it had not been for the great liberality of the Baron de Maua in coming to the rescue of the concern, the works might never have been completed or the line opened. Till; CITY OP BAH PAULO. It' it appears a long time in reaching here at't r pass- ing the wonders of the Serra, I was not disappointed either in the first peep at the city or by a more intimate Maintains- with it. One cannot help marvelling* h>w tin- adventurous handful of men who originally |>em- t rated the forests and founded these citi. >uth America had the courage and perseverance to do so ; but I believe they availed, in many cases, of the Indian tracks, and doubtless of Indian assistance occasionally. The city has rather an imposing aspect as you wind round it to the station, beini: l>uilt on a ridge of hi-h ground which overlooks the Km r Tie?.'- a stream rising in the neighbouring hills, and after truv r>inir nearly the whole of the province, eventually finds it> way to the Parana and the Paraguay. At the railway station sundry omnibuses and earria^o wen- waiting to receive the jiasx-n^Ts. AVe drove to the Hot, ! d' Italia. where a friend had taken rooms for u>. ;n,d found our- selves tolerably comfortable in a large hoiiM rather t he- worse for wear, and, like most things in this country, allowed to get out of repair. Ihirini: the construction of the- railway it was the head-quarters of the engineer- ing staff. The first thing we did next morning was to j>av our respects to the President of the Province, who n reived THE CITr OE SAN PAULO. 67 us very graciously. He is a man of a very expressive, benevolent countenance, and I believe he administers the affairs of the province in a most satisfactory manner not the easiest of tasks in such troublous times as the present. A ramble over the city impresses one favourably: good wide streets, paved with a material resembling macadam. It is obtained from one of the neighbouring hills, and forms a capital road. The sides are well made of large flags, much superior to those of Rio de Janeiro, although the pavement there is admirable. There are several fine churches, an extensive new public market, and, as a rule, the houses are well and substantially built. The shops are also numerous and well appointed with all the requisites for convenience and comfort suited to a city of 20,000 to 25,000 inhabi- tants. There are several national colleges here, with a number of young students, who help to enliven the place. The Province of San Paulo has always held a good position, from the enterprise and spirit of the people, the latter owing in some measure to the cool climate, which even now occasionally renders woollen clothing and blankets at night desirable, and a few months hence it will be positively cold, with ice in the morning. Previously to and since our arrival it has been raining so much that a vast tract of land border- ing the Tiete is overflowed, and travelling must be very bad. We took a drive to the church of Xossa Senhora de Penha, a few miles distant, on elevated ground, from whence a good view of the city and surrounding country is obtained ; but unfortunately rain came on, and we had only to make the best of our way home, the carriages nearly sticking fast in a quagmire. Otherwise the road is a pretty good one. 68 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. I may here allude to the kind hospitality of Captain and Mrs. Burton, which rendered our visit an exc< in irly agreeable one. On the occasion of this visit to Nossa Senhora de Penha, a curious incident occuriv 1. On our way out Mrs. Murton took a fan<\v to some geese which were quietly feeding by the road-side, and she determined to make a purchase of them on our way back, although it was raining heavily. After some iiiiinir the geese were bought, their legs wen- ti.-d. and each of us took charge of one or more. They v. quiet enough until we reached y, wli. r. th-- people began to pelt us with wax water halls, as it v. the Intrude time, when >'i<-h p:i>timc- is >till carried on to a great extent in an old fashioned plan- like I'nulo. The geese became alarmed, struir-Kd to release themselves, and after some difficulty and mu<-h am ment we got them safely disposed of in the- yard attached to the Consulate. Geese an- verv plentiful in Hra/il, hut then- is a prejudice ag.-. :n-m amount the natives as food, from an idea that they eat snake- and other vermin, but a few weeks good domestic feeding is calculated to do away with any objection of th as we had occasion to find in the excellent quality \' these very geese when we afterwards dined at the Consulate. A ridge of mountains forms a background to the north-west of San Paulo, in some of which are ^rold mines that have been long abandoned, nor U the mineral wealth of the province at all developed. The railway may bring with it new enterprise of this kind. but it \vill he slow work. I went over the San 1'ento Convent, where only one priest appears to reside in an enormous building, a por- tion of which has lately been fitted up with considerable THE CITY OF SAN PAULO. 69 taste The church is also kept in good order, but it seems absurd for only one man to occupy such a build- ing. The wealth of religious orders in Brazil is by no means insignificant, and it would be to the advantage of the country and of the people if this was made available for national purposes. Religion would be better appre- ciated, and the State would be able to form colonies in some of the richest lands of the Empire, which naturally enough fell into the hands of religious bodies. It is said that the Tropic of Capricorn passes close to the city of San Paulo, but of course the exact spot can- not be defined. There is plenty of fruit and vege- tables to be had, grapes are abundant and very cheap, good milk and fresh butter are easily obtainable, the cow going round to the houses in the morning with a bell attached to her, and generally the calf following. Indeed, a great many of the comforts and conveniences of life are to be found here which do not exist in other Brazilian towns, whilst the climate is infinitely superior. For many months of the year the thermometer ranges about GO , and at times goes down to 40; on the other hand it is sometimes very hot, but of short duration. This morning I saw a black boy in the street engaged in the occupation of shoeblack, with his little box and brushes very much after the London style. In fact there is a more general inclination to work when it is not so intensely hot. There goes the railway whistle, the train starting for Santos, and it will return about 3 p.m , bringing the passengers by steamer from Rio, which left there yesterday. There are two fast steamers a week between Rio and Santos, so the communication is well kept up. The number of old fashioned waggons or carts on two solid wooden wheels, drawn by teams of oxen according 70 BRAZIL AXD THE RIVR PLA to the weight carried, and the constant passage of them, and of mules and horses, the former with tinkling bolls, all laden with country produce, indicate the nature of the traffic which existed prior to tin- opming of the rail- way, rendering the streets of tin- city :i busy scene. The railway being closed between this and Jundiahy no doubt increases this traffic for a time, but it m always exist to a greater or a less degree, as i-vcryrhing for the consumption of the city has to be brought into it by these means. The bulk of the through tratlic of coffee and cotton must, however, inevitably find ir^ way on to the rails and be taken down tin impossible mu te with a railway for so great a distance. The troops of mules, horse >. and carts assemble at shops or war. IIMU^> in streets where their business is carried on, their produce di> liar and a certain portion of the animals loaded back to their iv-jeetive d->t inations. Hence the perpetual tinkling of beDs and cn-uking <>f wheels; at the M time a number of carriages and tilbury > are con>tantly in motion, eonvt yiiiLf passengi-rs about the -ity or out- skirts, causing a degree of activity one would othen hardly expect to find. Yesterday, Sunday, bring the first Sunday in L -nt, there was a grand procession, conM>ting of a ! number of figures of saints, carried on nun'.- .-liMulders. alter the old >tyle of chairing an M.I', at home. Sundry children were dressed up as angels, and there were a military band and some lew -oldit-rs; for, as the latter have been drained by the war, only ,1 suffi- cient number remain to keep guard. &c. The figui-t s are as large as life. The}- were enlli eted together at the church of San Francisco, a large.- and rather showy building, and at live o'clock the procession started, THE CITY OF SAN PAULO. 71 amidst discharging of rockets, ringing of bells, and other demonstrations. It passed the street in front of the hotel, and, being a tolerably long one, it had rather an imposing appearance. After traversing the principal streets of the city, it came back by a side one, which also skirted the hotel. A thunder storm had been gathering, and broke over the city just as the proces- sion was reaching the church from whence it started. An indescribable scene of confusion ensued. The pace was quickened, angels were lifted on the shoulders of blacks, the carriers of saints hurried along as fast as the weight permitted in fact, it was a race with the saints each trying to pass the other, to the imminent danger of an upset. The only part of the procession which retained a show of decorum was that in charge of the Host, where the high priest walked under a canopy with a number of other priests, accompanied by atten- dants, swinging censers ; and as the Host passed, all the spectators knelt down. Fortunately the rain kept off until the greater part reached the square, and the saints escaped a terrible wetting, as it came down in torrents, with loud peals of thunder and lightning, such as I have rarely met with. The storm continued in this way for several hours, and curiously enough in the midst of it came a telegram from the Government of Rio de Janeiro, announcing that the iron-clad fleet had succeeded in passing the fortress of Humaita, while a division of Brazilian troops had also taken a redoubt, &c., particulars of which will doubtless shortly reach England. Excitement was at its height, and spite of the thunder, lightning, and rain, houses began to light up, rockets were flying about, and later on, a band of music, with many fol- lowers, paraded the streets, playing and shouting vivas, 72 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. with other joyous demonstrations (|idte edifying under such an accumulation of atmospheric difficulties. On Monday evening the city was entirely illuminated with candles, lamps, and Chinese lanterns, the latter MTV pretty, and the effect altogether .-trikin;:. A lull military band paraded the Mivets. followed by civ of people; indeed, nearly the whole of the population, male and female, turned out and paraded tlu- >tr to a late hour, tin wonder being where they all M from. The demonstration continued for three days, or ratlu-r niirht.-, but not on so extensive a >eale, nor was i he firing of rockets so profuse. The nev, - from t hi- seat of war has, therefore. < ion, t he Paulistos being somewhat a martial j and proud of the exploits of their countrymen before ilumaita, though farther advices an d befoiv tlie war can be considered at an end. A drawback accompanied t In- war m-w>, namely, the cruel assassination of (lem-ral l-'k>re> at Mon: -, and the sanguinary proceed!: ihat followed on the occasion. I may mention having attended a >iuin;r of the Pro- vincial Assembly, in a very pokey, close room attached to the palace, with a miserably low gallery at each end for the public. The proceedings, h< wever, were orderly and dignified, and good .-peeelu > wi-re made, one by Senlior Leite Moraes, a tall, handsome man, who app likely to distin < L r ui>h himself ai an orator. The subject under discussion was a complaint against the conduct of the Roman Catholic pr There are thirty-six mem- bers of the Provincial Chambers, who annually attend for a period of two months, and some of them come from considerable distances at much personal incon- ience to themselves. J believe they are to have a larger m.d better place, for conducting their THE CITY OF SAN PAULO. 73 which is certainly very desirable. I also visited, in company with Captain Burton, English Consul, one of the seminaries or schools, presided over by French monks, who received us with attention, showed us over the extensive building and well laid-out gardens, and entertained us afterwards with some good English beer. The college, to which a good sized garden is attached, contains accommodation for about one hundred youths, who come here for their education, and remain several months, being comfortably lodged, and, I believe, well cared for. This is only one of the many similar establishments in San Paulo, which, in this respect, answers to our Cambridge or Oxford. The view from the college is very extensive and picturesque the city on one side, the large plain in which the city stands, with mountains in the distance, and close to the railway station. We heard the locomotive whistle, and saw the steam a long way off, reaching the station in time to see the train come in with 115 passengers, quite a large number, it being about the period of the students returning. It also brought a company of performers from one of the Rio de Janeiro theatres, who are going to afford the inhabitants a month's display of their artistic skill, so that in all respects the city will be very lively during the season of Lent, one of the eccentricities connected with the Roman Catholic religion. I went to the public gardens, which are at only a little distance from the railway station, and cover a large space of ground. They are in tolerable order, with flower beds and a piece of water in the centre. A considerable sum of money must have been originally expended on them, but not keeping things up is one of the major defects of the system in this country. 74 BRAZIL AND THE BIVEB PLATE. I thought processions were over for the present, hut last evening there was one of some magnitude. ing a saint from one chuivh to another, and spire of wet streets after the heavy rain, a large number of people turned out to witness and follow die participants in the ceremony. To-day, however, being Frid-y. ih -ili of March, was set apart for a special occasion a meeting, not a race of saints; and, for a wonder, the day and night have been remarkably line, a beautiful bright moon now shining after the great bu- \vr and the saint^ g.>ne to rest, though the illuminated altar- in various parts of the city are Mill glittering in all their tinsel, with numerous wor-hi; ficrdej in a plate their offerings in the shape f "dump.-." a slang phrase for copper coins. Preparatory symptom* have bee; r on for some days at a sort of large closet. < >r " hole in the wall" of the house ojipiite. hel>n;:mg to an old nobleman, who-e wife departed this lite to-day. The folding doors had been opened and a large blue cloth thrown over the sanctuary i'n>m a balcony ah but still it was easy to see that something unusual wa- in ] about the rime of the proces- sion, the doors opened, and the curtain was withdrawn, 'y pivtty altar, with a cross and small figures of aamtS at the ;<>p. the back parts and Bl being covered with gold and silver tin-el, and groups or lands of artificial ilo-- :lly a'T.-ing.-d. tin- whole lighted up by an immense number of candles, many of them in silver candle-ticks provided or lent for the occasion by devotees. Tin re were abbot ft doMB or more of tln-r old cupboard altars decked out. ea h apparently vying fr Mipremncy in effect. But I am forgetting the proee-sioii itself, which began to form at live o'clock, accompanied by the Usual paraphernalia a THE CITY OF SAN PAULO. 75 number of young girls dressed up as angels, bands of music, soldiers with fixed bayonets, the President of the Province, and all the dignitaries, with the high priest under a canopy and his attendants as before, whilst in front and behind walked the multitude. The meeting of the saints took place close to the hotel, where a halt was made, and a stout ecclesiastic (the bishop's secretary, I believe), for whom a very large pulpit had been temporarily erected at the corner of four streets, addressed a very energetic discourse to the multitude, until his voice began to get rather squeaky, nor could very much be made of what he said beyond that his listeners were a very bad lot, and required all the intervention of the saints before them to save them from perdition. The sermon ended, some music and singing took place before the altar opposite to our hotel, after which the procession went on, passing all the street altars, and this part of the ceremony ended when the saints were fairly housed. For hours, however, before the bright gaudy altars, and the still brighter moon, the whole population of the place passed in review, making their reverence and depositing their " dumps " or offertories Whether or not these ceremonies are conducive to the maintenance of the Roman Catholic Religion I cannot pretend to say, but certainly they are preserved here in all their original stage effect (for it can be called nothing else) just as I first recollect them in Brazil. I understand that in other parts of the Empire they have much fallen off. San Paulo has been more or less isolated, and it is only since the opening of the railway that the foreign element has been introduced. Fo rmerly a voyage to Rio de Janeiro was quite an un- dertaking ; now, by rail and steam, it is an affair of two 76 BRAZIL AND TILE RIVER PLATE. (lavs. One thing is very clear, that processions and religious observances of this kind arc very popular here. It is quite astounding to see the number of people filling tin- streets, mostly dressed in their -.-in- nt>, but to-day the ladies wore chiefly black. On the otluT hand, the black women the *" ''as they art- called prefer bright colours, and generally in good % taste white and coloured muslin, with gay >hawU thrown over their ample figures, many of them very tall, fine looking women. Considering the dull, monoto: life here, these religion^ fotivals are unquestionably a it relief to the female portion of the population, with whatever motive they may attend them; nor can help being struck with their app worship to dumb idols, and t! -rant str "dumps" poured into the plates by high and low, rich and poor, the latter bestowing their mit. t'n-ely. A p.irade over the city on such occasions in their IM-M attire, and the opportunity for showing off, has no doubt some influence, but this may be combined with religious feeling, according to their interpretation of it. Am- the numerous votaries present I may mention the hardy, bronzed, country race, men who travel over the country with mules, leading the lite of gipsies, and not unlike them, wrapped in a kind of coloured " poncho," similar to that worn in the River 1 Mate. They almost live in the saddle, and are a very line class of men true Panl- istos. But I see they are putting out the lights at the altar opposite, so it is time to extinguish mine and go to bed, as the clock is just striking midnight. To- morrow the folding-doors will be closed, and appear as the ordinary appendages of the house, leaving "not a wreck behind," except a few leaves of dead flowers scattered about the streets. THE SAN PAULO RAILWAY. 77 After a night's rest, I find that things have assumed their usual quiet course, enlivened only by the con- tinued favourable news from the seat of war, which keeps the church bells going, rockets firing, and bands of music parading the streets at night. These public demonstrations have been of the most lively kind, assisted by a bright moon, without a cloud in the sky ; indeed you can see to read by its rays. Moonlight nights are agreeable in any country, but in these tropical countries they seem to have an influence both on body and mind, refreshing the physique and raising the spirits. The atmosphere at this elevated spot is so cool at night that, however hot the day, you sleep in com- parative comfort, and awake to enjoy the cool breeze of the early morning. I took a ride in company with Mrs. Burton in the direction of what is called the Luz, past the railway station, where are numerous country houses, and a handsome bridge over the Tiete, after which the road goes through low ground, now entirely flooded, forming a swamp of many miles in extent. A couple of miles further on brings you to a rather sharp hill, on which is a small, rough-looking chapel, never finished, where people come on a kind of pilgrimage, or to enjoy the beautiful view from it. Looking back, the city of San Paulo is seen to much advantage, and to the left, some thirty-five miles distant, appear the spurs of the moun- tains, past which the railway runs to Santos. In the opposite direction, and apparently much nearer than they are, you see the chain of hills through which the railway proceeds to Jundiahy, the celebrated Jaraguay (or gold mountain) to the left of them, standing out very boldly in the light of the setting sun. Altogether it is considered one of the prettiest short rides about 78 BRAZIL ASD THE RIVER PLATE. the place, there being a great variety of them. The site of the chapel also enjoys the reputation of bi in- in the exact line of the tropic of Capricorn, so that San Paulo is just outside it. We reined up A abort time t<> enjoy the prospect and then c 1 baek lor dinner. A perusal of accounts from Hii-land by th< ail, and of i >m the River Plate, form a very a._ diversion to the otherwise monotonoi, n h:i- lead here, although my visit has been an exeeption t-> the rule in thi> 1'rom the oecurrenee> d tailed in pre\ious paires. It i> impille to read the official arid private- communications from the River without fueling deeply grieved at the tragic seen*- that have lately been acted there. The correspondent of the Jonial do Commercio at Monte Video gives a graphic account of the assa ml Flores and the events arising out of it ; and 1 incline to believe that, however deplorable, they nipped in the bud a very formidable con>piracy, which, had it been suc- cessful, would have deluged rni;_ r uay with bloud for a long time, and might otherwise have compiieat.-d tin: position of things, as there can be little doubt the act of the Blanco party would have been to do away with the Triple Alliance, so far as Monte Video and to insiituu -a ivm-wal of their insulting con- ducttowardfl r>ra/.il. Thechangedaspectof thewar, with a prospect of its speedy termination, will >tiviiL:then the hands of the Colorados, and, it is to be hoped, maintain peace and order in the little Republic. The writer already mentioned goes into very minute details of the passage of Ilumaita by the IJra/.ilian ironclads; and there is quite a tii. attached to their per- formances. Avhieh certainlv reflect the hi^lu-st credit on the gallantry of the commanders and crews ; nor less so THE CITY OF SAN PAULO 79 the victory obtained by the Marquis de Caxias, the com- bined effects of which must lead to the occupation of Asuncion and to the ultimate surrender or destruction of Lopez himself. That his resistance has been wonder- fully stubborn no one can deny ; still less the pertinacity which has distinguished the conduct of the allies under difficulties pronounced by some first-rate military authorities to be insurmountable. I have not yet referred to the theatrical performances now going on here, with a company from one of the Rio theatres, which draws crowded houses in a building almost as large as Covent Garden. It is in a very im- provised state, but sufficiently got up to answer the purpose ; and in a climate like this external appearances are not much thought of provided there is enough ven- tilation, which is certainly the case in the San Paulo Theatre. A stranger cannot help feeling surprised on entering to see so large a place, having three tiers of boxes, filled chiefly by well-dressed ladies, and a gal- lery for what we term the " gods," the gentlemen being in the pit, which holds fully 500 people and was quite crowded. Each one has what we call a stall, but here cane seats, with backs, divided by arms, so that you are very comfortably seated. The large attendance is ex- plained by the circumstance of the city being dependent on casual performances, and of course everybody is anxious to take advantage of the opportunity. There is no regular company attached to the theatre, but the attendance, appearance, and dress of the ladies of San Paulo on these occasions will compare favourably with what is presented in any city of South America. As to the performance, it is usually a compilation from some French rubbishy novel ; but the acting is tolerably good, and the audience attentive, sitting patiently for 80 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. the five or six hours commonly occupied by the piece a very great objection. To-day March 16 is the first of term at the Col- lege, where a strong muster of students took place at an early hour of the morning, and I believe that some of the ceremonials that occur on such occasions at < Kfbrd and Cambridge also prevail here. The p of nearly a thousand students gives a tone of animation to the old city, and is a set-off to the constant creakinifof waggon wh ! the tinkling of hells of mule>. which indicate its commercial charact r. I'.ra/.il is chit fly in- debted to this city fora swarm of lawyer-, many of whom have been, and continue to he. distinguished men. hut it would be far better for the country it' many of tin -in were brought up to agricultural or commercial pnr>uiis. In the seaport towns the Portuguese continue to as the chief traders, l>nt in tin- interior the latter arc mostly Brazilians. There is now tin army, tin navy. and the engineering pursuit! open to the youth <>t r.ra/il, and I have no doubt they will by derives take uj j tions more beneficial to their country than that <>f HUT.- disputants, or lawyers, which char; numerous. Took an early ride to the north of San Paulo on the 17th, from whence there was a line view nf anexn n-ivc valley, where the ]\n>\ wa< I'i-in^ and float inir away to the distant hills on the other side. A 1 tr.n.ps of mules cominLT in with their driver- in their pie; nrexjiie coloured ponchos, and also a group of women approach- ing the city. >kirtiiiLr a wood to the left, through >omc bty looking scenery, we came upon the new >antos road, made a I't.-w years Lack at ^reai expense; and a most admirable road it is. Imt. it appears, not much 1 smce the railway was opened, pa.-.>inL: through a THE CITY OP SAN PAULO 81 most admirable road it is, but it appears, not much used since the railway was opened, passing through a poor, uncultivated country. If the large amount ex- pended on this road had been laid out at the terminus of the line at Jundiahy, towards the coffee producing districts, it might have been of much greater importance to the Province. Odd enough, it was made in opposi- tion to the railway, although it must have been evident that the latter would take a large portion of the traffic, and that that by mules from San Paulo to Santos would be greatly reduced. The projectors, who were chiefly large coffee growers of the Province, might have sup- posed a good road to Santos would keep a check on the railway as to charges of transit, and be used in case of any partial stoppage of the railway ; but unfortunately the heavy rains which shut up the latter for a time also injured the common road, rendering it impassable in places. Before leaving the City of San Paulo, where I have spent several pleasant weeks, I went over what is called the House of Correction, but is in fact a criminal refor- matory for the Province and admirably managed. The building is in a fine open space near the railway station, enclosed on a large square plot of ground, sur- rounded by high walls, inside which are gardens beauti- fully laid out, and kept in order by the inmates. The main portion of the building converges into a central point by means of arched roofs, lighted from the top, the cells abutting on the corridors which lead thereto. Here there is also a circular raised stone altar, on which mass is performed, and heard in all the cells through an open iron grating with which each is provided. The workshops are apart, leading off the garden, and consist of various trades suited to the acquirements of the L 82 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. criminals; there being also a school, where they :ht to read and write. They come to tlu-sr work- shops from the main building in groups, each individual having a mark or number to distinguish him by, and they are accompanied by a guard. Theworkshopa have doors with open gratings, but secured by a strong lock and ke-. inel doing duty during the time tin- men are occupied at labour, with a time master seated in a kind of elevated pulpit to see that the work allotted t<> ry individual be prop.-rly done. In approaching or leaving the workshops the men all walk with folded arms and the whole bring on the silent i of punishment, no one is allowed to speak. elude, when some question has to be asked through the warder or other officer of the establishment, tin \.rnor, .1 retired colonel in the army, accompanied by Senhor Leite Morars, a distinguished member of the Provincial Assembly. Much attention \va> >liown us. and some refreshment was provided for us in the Ciovrn. room. Near to the reformatory, abutting on the rail- way station, are the- public gardens of San Paulo, on which a good deal of money has been sp--nr. Thrv are well laid-out. but not kept in order, one of the chronic defects of these kind of places in South America generally. SAN PAULO TO SANTOS AND RIO DE JANEIRO. WE finally left San Paulo after a very agreeable visit, on the 25th of March, by the 9.30 train for Santos, with a tolerable number of passengers, and some friends who kindly accompanied us on our journey. Between San Paulo and San Bernardo station, a distance of about ten miles, the road is tolerably level, and the country more or less open, though uncultivated save in small plots. At this station I got upon the engine with Mr. Fox, and came upon sharp curves and many cuttings until we reached Rio Grande Station, after which, for a distance of seven miles, the works are very heavy, some of the inclines being one in fifty and one in sixty. Nothing near but dense forests, without a human habi- tation to be seen. Approaching the top of the Serra, it appeared completely shut in. by the range of moun- tains in front of us, the road winding and twisting till we suddenly reached the small platform, whence the descent of the mountain begins, and a glorious prospect opens out of the valley below, with the sea in the dis- tance ; yet not without a vague feeling of anxiety as to the novel position in which we find ourselves placed. I was allowed to ride on the break again, and it is certainly a wonderful sight, whilst being slowly let down the lifts which I have before described. The day 84 BRAZIL AND Till: KIVKK PLATE. was light and the atmosphere clear, the light and shad* on the dense mass of foliage with which the mountain > are clothed appearing to great advantage, like a huge carpet spread over the face of nature. It is decidedly worth a visit from Europe to go over the railway, and ran hrlp wondering h-w it was ever made, under what HUM have appeared almost insurmumal>le diiti- culties in such a country and such a climate; the pioneers obliged to live in the forests and often short of tin- necessaries of life. Without traversing tlu: line, it mi>ossible to form any idea of the magnitude of tlu- undertaking, or how the boilers and inaehi- for the stationary e ni/ u> up the moun- tains, almost without a track, much lf>> a road, for a total height of 2,600 feet above the level of sea. The Paulistos ought to be proud of their railway, and i :nen of the >kill and endurance of their countrymen in making it; at the same time, it cannot be denied that many errors of construction ! been committed, and even at the present moment ihe working power of the line is crippled for want of loco- motives, besides which those on the metals are not adapted to it, as I have previously explained. Hed-ta] > ry and official conceit have produced the same result 1 as in other places, to give wa ually to a practical common sense view of things; not without entailing. however, losses upon the unfortunate >harehol. The fine being again open throughout, a considerable arrear of traffic is waiting to come down from Jundiahy. which will severely tax the iiiMiliiciciit rolling stock and locomotive power at the disposal of the niana. but at all events it is satisfactory to know that the traffic is likely to be a steady one, with a considerable future project when once its requirements are fairly met l>y the company. SANTOS TO EIO. 85 We reached the foot of the Serra before noon, and at one o'clock we were at Santos station, the whole distance from San Paulo to Santos being 48g miles ; rather a long time on the way, but the Serra itself takes an hour, and there are several stoppages at the stations. Some time is also occupied in waiting at the foot of the Serra for the second portion of the train (it is divided into three carriages each lift) to come down and join before pro- ceeding forward. This process of course takes place both ways. Contrast this system, however, with that of pack mules, and what an immense stride does it represent in the means of transit and communication. Santos was cooler than when we went there before, and the day was fine and bright. The steamer did not sail until four o'clock, so we strolled about and got some dinner. The departure was punctual, and sailing down the river to the bar the surrounding scenery, tinged by the glowing afternoon sun, gave everything a very cheerful, though grandly picturesque aspect. The friends who had kindly accompanied us from San Paulo here left us in a boat, to land at the bar, which is a favourite watering place, and where many nice cottages are built. We steamed on, passed the small fort, and were soon in the open Atlantic, the boat dancing about more than was agreeable to some of the passengers, who soon disappeared below. The Santa Maria is a power- ful boat, steaming her twelve knots an hour, with very good accommodation; but the wind and sea being against us, we did not get into Rio harbour before noon the next day, taking 20 hours for a distance of about 180 miles. TRIP TO JUIZ DE FORATHE DOM PEDRO 8EGODO RAILWAY. To estimate the resources of a country wiili such .-in enormous extent of territory a> llra/il by the quantity of cotton, sugar, coffee, or other products she actually >rts, or by the < !' the towns and cities on her seaboard, would be to form a very inadi -ijuatc idea of what those resources are capable of becoming by mi of imported labour, th of railways, and other transport facilities in the >hape of good roads. Kven with the present limited population, railways are calcu- lated to swell enormously tin- amount of JJra/ilian ]<>- ductions, as they naturally lead to the opt -niiii: out of other modes of intercommunication, and draw toward- them subsidiary streams of tra Hie. which have hitherto been unable to find a vent. It is only wlu-n a railway penetrates the primeval forests, and goes into the h< of a country, that an adequate idea ran le formed of what it is capable of being made, or that t! of -ting cultivation can be seen uuder all the drawback^ arising from the want of labour, added to the difficult and expensive means of transport. This ha> been very clearly >ho\vn in the case of the San Paulo Railway, which, with the proposed extension to Campinas, will reach at once the great producing districts, and enable the cultivators of them to make their calculations to a TRIP TO JUIZ DE FORA 87 nicety as to the cost of laying down their coffee or cot- ton at the port of Santos, and whether or not it can repay them to extend their production with the means at present under their command. The result will doubt- less be a very large addition to the exports from Santos. But to return to the Dom Pedro II. Railway. On the day previous to my leaving Rio, I had made the acquaintance, through the introduction of a friend at home, of Dr. Gunning, who, I found to my surprise, lived some fifty miles up the line, and he very kindly invited me to remain the night with them, instead of going on direct to Entre Rios. Accordingly at noon the next day, (the 4th April), we started by a train that only runs at that hour on Saturday, the ordinary ones being at 5 a.m., which involves getting up in the middle of the night to those who are any distance from the station. The train was a very full one, and I had w to be content with a seat on my own portmanteau at the beginning of my journey, the carriage being open, and built in the American style, with sofas and chairs round the sides. The station is large and commodious, with plenty of sheds and warehouses for receiving pro- duce. The pace was pretty good ; the train passing the suburbs of the city, then the abatoirs, where cattle are slaughtered, with hundreds of the large black vultures hovering about ; afterwards going through the Emperor's grounds and not far from his palace. Many fine country houses are near the line, which become fewer in number until we reach the first station called Sapepomba, at a short distance from which is a fine estate belonging to the Baron de Maud, whose name is a household word in Brazil. This estate is worked by an American, who married an adopted daughter of the Baron, and has now a very large tract of sugar cane 88 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE . under cultivation. It presents in other respects all the evidence of good management. The public road run- close to the station. We proceed through lowlands, with cattle grazing on some of them, until we reached the station of Machabamba, in the. neighbourhood of which the Baron de Bomfim has also a large sugar estate as well as ground for grazing cattle. At this station, as at most others, were so-called hotels, \\ eating and drinking is carried on much a: fashion in other countries, and a number of passengers got out apparently to spend the Sunday in tin- country. After traversing some fine open country, bounded by mountains on all sides, we crossed wh: ltd the dismal swamp, where so many people lost their ! during the construction of tin- line; thi> part <>1 the line reminded one of the swamps about which so much has been written in connection with tin- Panama Kail- way. The next station we came to was that of lit ] m. an important place at the foot of tin- great mountain rise. 1 may prrhap* ol.M-rvr that many plot* of land, after we left tl.. Milmrbs of Rio, were cultivated with mandioca, the great staple article of food in thi country, and doubtless much of what is nov. ill soon be brought into requi.-ition for the production of this commodity. At Belem there was a good di>play of refreshment, substantial and light creature comforts evidently being appnciated by the Braxiliaiis : oral. figs, and >weets of various kind- rough t al.-o the carriage doors. lien we c d the ordinary English locomotive for one of the powerful American ription, calculated to mount the hills, which we began to ascend immediately after leaving I'don station, and here commences the really interesting feature of the works. The American "horse," as it is TRIP TO JUIZ DE FORA 89 termed, began snorting, the whistle making a frightfully loud noise, a sort of steam gong, which can be heard at a very great distance. The train now twists and turns round the sharp curves, the scenery becomes grand and imposing as we go up, and at one point, after proceeding eight or ten miles through a succession of tunnels and embankments, a stone could be thrown across the ridge to the place we left. The views of the valleys, with the spurs of the hills planted with coffee and Indian corn, are very pretty, and one is called Paraiso, or paradise, though I think that title might be much more appropriately applied to the valley opposite Dr. Gunning's house, which is called the Valley of Monkeys, I suppose because many exist in the woods there. The elevation attained on reaching Dr. Gun- ning's station was upwards of 1,300 feet, in about 2a hours from Rio, and here I was persuaded to rest over Sunday, resuming my journey by rail on Monday morning. Dr. Gunning's little colony, for it quite amounts to that, took me quite by surprise, as I was utterly igno- rant of its existence. As I said before, the valley which it overlooks might justly be termed that of Paraiso, instead of the other we passed in ascending the mountains. It takes a range of some 20 to 30 miles, with a series of hills or spurs rising from it, backed by the mountains which tower over Rio de Janeiro. The house is built on the foreground, with an extensive bal- cony in front, where you sit in a rocking chair in a state of quiet ecstacy and wonder how such an enchanting spot can be so little known in a great city comparatively so near to it. From the balcony you can see the trains moving upwards, popping now and again into the numerous tunnels, there being no less than thirteen M 90 BRAZIL AND THE BIVER PLATE. between the house and the foot of the mountain and sixteen or seventeen over tin- whole line. The I>i>et>r has constructed two or three neat cottages on his land, and there is also within hail a charming one erected by -Mr. Gotto when he was out here as Engineer of the Rio [mprovementi Company. It is situate at a point which also commands a tine view of the noble valley, and is at present occupied l>y an American merchant. Tin; Doctor is about to build otln -n his land, and is laying out the site for a hotel, which mi-hi t<> be y attractive to Rio residents in search of fresh and renovated health. It is difficult to conceive a i lovrly situation, or one surrounded by more attractive scenery. Before dinner we took a walk in the line shady woods below the house, and at night enjoyed the ell'ect of a splendid moon from a balcony where the scene in Romeo and Julliet might be admiral ly enacted, a place of all others adapted for the interchange of "lo\ \o\vs." \Vewere. however, a very sober-minded, l.nt pleasant party, and enjoyed ourselves with "sweethearts and wives " over a glass of toddy. On Sunday niorni \ rose early to look at one of the greatest natural curiosities it is possible to conceive. A light vapoury mist, ''white as the driven snow," covered the entire valley; with here and there the tops of hills appearing like islands in a sea ; indeed, one could hardly be!! that what one >aw was >imply mist, and not Mducthinii 1 more tangible and substantial. This gradually di peared as the sun topped the heights, and ihen all became bright and verdant as on the previous clay. Residents in the valley led wrapt in a kind of *hr. >ud whilst the mist is over them, but no evil eifeets ajj to result from it. An American missionary, .Mr. J Slack-' ford, who was for some time stationed at the city of TRIP TO JUIZ DE FORA. 91 Paulo, and was, with his wife, a guest of Dr. Gunning, read a portion of the Church Service in Portuguese and preached a sermon in the same language to the house- hold and a number of people employed about the place, after which we wandered about, dined, and enjoyed another quiet moonlight evening looking over the happy valley. There is quite a little society of Americans residing about here, which renders it anything but a solitude. I left this hospitable retreat on Monday, by the train which passes at 8 a.m.., and continued to find a series of wonderful curves and tunnels until we reached the station of Barra, where a good comfortable breakfast was waiting for such passengers as chose to avail of it. I was joined by the son of Mr. Ellison, head engineer of the line, who is making a branch near Disengano station, in the direction of San Paulo, with which it is eventually intended to connect this province. He made himself very agreeable, and gave me much valuable information. I should not omit to allude to the really beautiful scenery passed through between Entre Rios and Barra, where the passengers breakfasted. I walked to look at a very handsome bridge erected over the River Parahyba, which becomes here a considerable stream, running the whole distance to Entre Rios, where it meets the Parahybuna, which comes down from Minas Geraes, the latter emptying itself into the sea at San Joao de Barra, after passing the important town of Campos. The railway, which is here 122 miles in length from Rio de Janeiro, is to be extended to another point on the Parahyba called Porto da Cunha, makiDg a total 92 BRAZIL AND THE BIVEB PLATE. distance of about 160 miles, the latter portion tapping valuable sources of traffic, as the river is only navigable a short way from its mouth. Besides its 16 tuni small and great, the railway is crossed by several hand- some bridges, first to one bank of the river and thru the other, as the gradients were found favourable and there is one very fine station, culled Disrngano. a ; tion of the cost of which was contributed by the Marqueza dc Bependi, who has a magnificent fazcnda near to it, and numerous large picture ><|u' fazcndas are at different bends of the river, which roll in its rocky bed, with a succession of small rapids, the hills above it being covered with coffee, Indian eorn, and mandioca, all now ripe. Where this cultivation does not exist either virgin forests or cattle grazing form the variety, and the former still occupy a large portion of the country we passed through, particularly between Uba station and that of Parahyba do Sul. I am told that Vassoura, a city about rom the station of that name, is prettily situated and inu rest- ing, but of course it is impossible to see everything in so extraordinary a range of country. We reached Entre Rios station before noon, and found the stage coach waiting; also a tolerable dinm r, which the flies tried to participate in, being only held in check by boys with lar !MT fans. The place, I believe, is infested by flies from the number of mules ! there; but the company is improving and extending tin- accommodation for passengers, the head station being 800 feet in length. The guard of the "Mazeppa"' summons the passengers, and away we started with four good mules, amid>t t and bustle, by a regular stage- coach of the old Knglish type, the first stage being along the banks of the Jlio I'm to, coming down from TRIP TO JUIZ DE FOEA. 93 the mines. The road was all that had been described to me and more ; a perfectly good, smooth, macadamised one, fenced in with groups of bamboo on the river side and aloes on the other, along which we drove at the rate of nine to ten miles an hour. I was inside at starting, but some passengers left at the second station, Parahybuna, when I mounted on the front seat for the remainder of the journey, and enjoyed as fine a ride, for good travelling and good scenery, as it is possible to fe conceive. The road belongs to a Brazilian company called the " Uniao e Industria," started some few years back, and now carrying on a large and profitable traffic, chiefly in merchandise; but the stage coaches are a very impor- tant feature as regards accommodation for the public. The stations where they change mules are large and commodious, with warehouses for receiving produce, and that of Parahybuna is in a most picturesque situa- tion, a huge granite mountain on one side and in front of the river, which rushes down over rocks, forming cascades here and there, with a long bridge which we had to cross. A good many dwelling houses are built about these stations, belonging, I conclude, to people connected with the road. Our next station was Simon Pereira, about which there is a good deal of woodland scenery, reminding one of parts of Wales, with the road winding in and out round the hills ; and on this stage is a very fine fazenda known by the name of Solidade, the property of the Baron Bertiago, comprising, I am told, an immense district. Here we again come upon the mountain stream, which runs through the valley, always forming a rapid current as we keep ascending. The next stage was Barboza, where we came up with another diligence, also from Petropolis, with a party, 04 BRAZIL AND TIIF. LIVER PLATE. having a band of music outside, and Portuguese and Brazilian flags flying. They kept ahead of u<. 1m the last stage, Ponto Americano, a most romantic spot, > tar ted almost T r, our companion still keeping the lead, at a strong gallop, which our coachman imi- tated, and it was anything but m nto Juix de Fora, to say nothing of the dust we had to take up in the wake of the front diligence. Nothing could be more beautiful than the scenery for the last stages, coffee and Indian corn plantations succeeded (ah oti mingled with virgin forests, grazing ground, alls in the distance, entire trees covered with purple and yellow flowers, a perfect galaxy of tropical vegetation in its most attractive forms. The veiling pleasantly cool, so cool as to cause one to 1-utton up his coat, and there was a sensation of freshness in tin- air like that of an autumn evening at home. As the two roaches approached Juiz de Fora a large number of its residents turned out to see the arrival, which I believe was that of some new settler.-, who must have been gratified with their r DL We drove on to the coach station, whin; I found that the .ilen.an I was anxious to see had gone to hi.- fa/.enda that morning, some leagues distant; so I d- -termini -d to await his return and went to a small hotel close to. called the "Union," where 1 made my self M comfortable a-> the limited accommodation would permit. fluiz de Fora is pleasantly situated on an el. plateau, some 2,600 feet al>o\e the level of tl ,ith a background of fine Cultivated hills and a very pictu- ue waterfall. The originator and director of the flourishing company " I'niao e Industria" has built a magnificent hoii.-e on an clevati-d .-j.ot which overlooks the whole valley, and his ground* are beautifully laid I TRIP TO JUIZ DE FORA. 95 out with every species of tree to be found in Brazil, as well as those brought from other countries. There are ornamental waters, with swans, rare specimens of water fowl, and numbers of valuable birds, fowls, monkeys, in fact, a little Zoological Garden of itself. Everything in the establishment was in keeping, evincing the good taste of the owner and the liberal manner in which he expends his large fortune. I had also the opportunity of going over a new building called the School of Agri- culture, where modern agricultural implements are to be collected, as well as samples of live stock to improve the breed of cattle. There is a capital English stallion, two years old, descended from the celebrated Stockwell, brought out from England at great expense ; another one of Norman breed, besides brood mares, bulls, Alderney cows in short, the nucleus of a respectable cattle show, which it is intended to become, and the Emperor has announced his intention to visit the place in June next, though it will take some time to make it complete and in a state of efficiency. An intelligent Swiss gentleman presides over the School of Agricul- ture, and an English groom is very proud, as he may well be, of the silky coat and the healthy appearance of the descendant of Stockwell. There is a nice little German colony at Juiz de Fora, mostly artisans in the company's employ, who live in very snug cottages, with little gardens attached to them, the women keeping cows, selling milk, &c. A death had occurred the clay I was there, and the funeral was attended by all the elders of the colony, men and women, dressed in their best clothes, forming a very interesting group. The company employ some 3,000 mules in the traffic of their line, the breakers of them, as well as the coach drivers, being Germans. Mr. Treloar, 96 BRAZIL AKD THE RIVER PLATE. jtin., arrived from Rio with his wife and family during my stay here, leaving the lu-xt day with a larirc troop of mules, on a seven days' journey up to the inn Having seen all of IL io .luix de Fora, I started on Thursday, the I'th of April, to return to Kntre Kios, and thence on by the same " Uniao e ! ia " road to Petropolis, a total distance of about 107 miles. I found the second half of the road as intere>ting as tl half I had gone over all in the same perfect state, son between Eutre Rios and Petropolis passing through splendid mountain scenery. NearEntre Rios th< ri\n- is crossed by a very fine iron bridge. \\V ivachv d Petropolis at dusk, amidst a shower of rain, the first I had met with on the whole journey, during which the weather was remarkably fine and cool in the hi, _ r es of the road, though hot and dusty on the 1 parts. . -trly the whole fifty miles the road winds by the bed of a rapid mountain stream, descending from the mountainous district about Petropolis, going to 11 the river of which it is the source, forming a succession of cascades, the noise of whose waters in; "music to the ear," enhancing the grandeur of the scenery through which it passes as well as cooling the atmosph I should not neglect to mention the o cart traffic over the road, which constitutes the real income of the company, and has enabled it to pay tl. dividend of 10 to 14 per cent These carts are all of one pattern, with names and numbers on them, drawn generally by five mules, with a .-pare one attached. \\Y e constantly meeting them going up and down, and whether they have got more into the way <>f it, or the mules are now better trail: met with no such in- conveniences as Mr. Binchcliffe describes in his book, TRIP TO JUI2 DE FORA. 97 though the windings and turnings of the road are often of such a nature as to require a "bright look out," and the use of a shrill whistle the horn being only sounded on approaching the end of the journey. By means of the rail and coach, Rio morning papers are delivered at Juiz de Fora, a distance of 170 miles by rail and road, the same evening: Formerly it required a week to communicate between the two places. A large quantity of stone is collected along the road to keep it in order, and at certain distances are men breaking them in the most old fashioned manner possible. They are chiefly Portuguese immigrants. I had not been at Petropolis for twenty years, dui'ing which time there has been a large increase of building and population, but I was sorry to learn that this pros- perity is likely to be evanescent, in consequence of the soil suitable for cultivation by the German colonists being worn out, aud still more by the Dom Pedro II. Railway turning the stream of traffic, which previ- ously to its opening to Entre Rios had continued to flow from the mines through Petropolis and down the splendid mountain road, conveying goods and passengers to the Maud Railway, and thence by steamer to Rio. Of course, the railway from Entre Rios to Rio de Janeiro, though longer as regards mileage, is quicker and more direct, with a saving in expense to travellers, even if produce and merchandise were conveyed at equal rates by the two roads, but it must be the interest of the country to keep both the roads open, as, in the case of accidental stoppage, the Petropolis one is always available. It is not unlikely that terms will be come to by the two companies so as to prevent injurious competi- tion, as the country has had to pay large sums of money for the installation and maintenance of both roads. 98 BRAZIL AKD THE RIVEH PLATE. I remained over Sunday at Petropolis, but it turned out a very wet day, and I was not able to go about much, or to take advantage of the splendid view t ! is from the top of the mountain down to the Bay of Rio de Janeiro. We started at 6.30 on Monday morn- ing in a carriage with four mules, ami descended amidst heavy rain and a dense mist, so that none of the beau of the locality were visible. At the foot of the Se the railway train was waiting, and we soon reached tin- place of embarkation by steamer, arriving at Rio about 10.30, after a week's absence, during which 1 1 acquired a better knowledge of the progress and r. - sources of this part of the country than any other in of information could have supplied. As regards the at internal road on which I ha\v dwelt so much, it is decidedly one of the marvels of Brazil. RIO DE JANEIRO TO THE RIVER PLATE. SECOND TRIP. ON my return to Rio on Saturday, the llth of April I found the City of Brussels had arrived after a very quick passage from Falmouth of twenty days, and she was leaving next morning (Sunday) for the River ; so I resolved to go by her and complete my visit, which had been so recently unfortunately interrupted. A difficulty occurred, owing to the police requiring me to give three days' notice in the public papers of my inten- tion to leave, and they refused to visa the passport I brought with me, though it had already served on other similar occasions. The only way to get over the obstacle was to take a surety to the police office, who would be responsible for any debts I might have contracted, and after driving backwards and forwards for some hours, at considerable trouble and expense, this requirement was satisfied. This absurd and vexatious system of passports is one of the old relics of barbarism which Brazil ought to do away with, and the sooner the better ; nor is it any protection against roguery, as every one knows how easily such regulations are evaded in the latter case. Countries like Brazil ought to be as free as the air, and all possible facility given to travellers who only come for information or amusement, and have no 100 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. business relations. Passports do not rxUr in the Great Republic of the North, and France has abolished tl. BO let us hope 15rax.il will follow in the wake, and c\ .1 liberality in dealing with passer We were to leave at 8a.m. on Sunday. 1 lined for dispatches until ten, and finally pas>ed the fort at 11 a.m., with a light wind Km much swell, in- dicating a southerly wind, of which we got tin- benefit the next day. I may mention that the City of Brussels is a splendid new steamer of Tait's line, and made the first departure under mtract with the lielgian Government. At Antwerp a grand entertainment had i given to the authorities <>n the day of her drj.art un-. and on Saturday a party was entertained on board at After encountering rath, r a strong souther made the 1,'iver on Thursday night, and anchor off y m Friday, the pas- having Keen run in live days. It blew so hard, wiv much swell on, that it was some time before we got on shore, on reaching which I went to my old (jnartt i the (.Iran Motel Ameri old 1'ri there. The aspect of Monte Video was greatly changed for the my last vi>it, when the cholera wa^ making sin-h tearful ravages and an air of activity ]T- vaded the place, notwithstanding tin y which had occurred in the as.-: -u of General Fl. Humours of political ; .'led. lnit tl was nothing on the surface to indicate them, and the nightly gathering OD the IMaxa to luar the hand had been resumed, although for some time after the murder of the President the Pla/.a was held by troops and gun* planted at the corner of it. A visit to Buchentall'e qtiinta occupied the greater RIO TO THE RIVER PLATE, 101 part of one day, and a delightful place it is, enclosed in spacious grounds, provided with choice trees, beautiful exotics, a large conservatory, and other glass houses ; in fact, with everything which a cultivated taste can devise. There is a large kitchen garden attached, and quite a plantation of pear trees, loaded with splendid pears, for which Monte Video is famous. The stables and farm buildings are extensive, and, like the house, they are in the Swiss cottage style ; they are tenanted by fine horses, valuable cows, and other descriptions of cattle. Everything is in perfect order. The view from the upper ground, at the back of the house, is very fine the city, the harbour filled with shipping, and the mounts at its entrance, the waters of the La Plata glistening beyond in the sunlight. It is a bright, beautiful day, and certainly at this season the climate is very agreeable, so different from the intense heat expe- rienced in the month of January. After leaving the quinta, we extended our drive, passing by many pretty country houses, some of peculiar but tasteful architec- ture, and stopped at a house on the road side, kept by a Frenchman, where we got an excellent cold luncheon and drove back to the city. Expecting the steamer to sail the same night, we em- barked before dark, but were disappointed, the cargo not being all discharged. We did not get away until next evening. Had we known this we might have seen the races, which took place the following morning, to see which I believe more than half the population turned out, the Custom House and public buildings being closed. South Americans are fond of excitement, though horse-racing is comparatively a new amusement for them, being chiefly got up by foreigners. Whilst at dinner on Monday afternoon, the wind, which had been blowing 102 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. moderately from the north, suddenly veered round to the south, and soon after we left the harbour incrc. to a pampero, causing a nasty cross sea and a very dis- agreeable motion in the ship, which sent most of the passengers to bed curly. It is not a very pleasant navigation in such weather, with banks lyin.u in tho way, and shallow water in many places, and we glad when daylight came to find ourselv. the outer roads of Buenos Ayres. This exposed r<>ud>t having to lie so far from the shore, is a great drawback, rendering the e of discharging and load in i: very In -ivy, but there is no help for it, nor any pr a rule, ac- nts are rare, unless when the fierce pamper*^ drive everything before them. This is my second visit to Buenos Ayres, after a lapse of 15 years, and, although from the sea no remarkable change appears to the Guiding, the enor- mous increase of the city soon becomes apparent, about which I shall say more presently. '1 lie Mole and Custom House were new to me, as also the landing pier for boats a very great convenience and improvement on the old carts, into which you had to get from the boat. The weather, which had been cool at Video, be- came positively cold here, cloaks ; s brin^r the order of the day. It is now approaching the e>ldr>i season of the year, with some sharp frost at ni^lit, which has blackened the potatoes and other vegetables outside the city: and the sunny >ide of tl. I decidedly preferable to the shady one, a very different sta: things to that which existed when I was at .Monte Video, in January, with the heat lrejiiently above UU el CITY OF BUENOS AYRES. IT is not an easy task to describe the great changes that have taken place in this city since my visit fourteen years ago. At the same time they are so remarkable as to require a special notice. My views at that time were sanguine as to the pro- gress of these River Plate countries, but they have been more than realised, notwithstanding political and other drawbacks. Suffice it to say that Buenos Ayres has nearly doubled in size since I was last here, and, although no public census that I am aware of has ever been taken, the population of the city and environs must almost have augmented in the same ratio. The difficulties of the roadstead remain, but a forest of masts, extending for many miles in the outer and inner roads, together with a considerable number of steamers (the latter particu- larly in the inner roads) meets the eye, and two piers, or moles, have been erected, one exclusively used for Custom House purposes, the other for boats and passen- gers, but a large portion of the traffic is still carried on by the carts which go alongside the boats with cargo or to take it away. Landing at the mole, a busy scene presents itself in the conveyance of passengers' luggage, which is taken charge of by the peons or porters, and carried for examination to the little depot at the entrance to the mole. Afterwards it is allowed to pro- ceed in carts or carriages to its destination. 104 BRAZIL AND Till: IIIVEK PLATK. Being built in squares, tin -c of th verv apparent until you get fairly into it; but the numeron> two or three-storied 1 hotels, the line ^hops and warehouses, and the gi movement in the street, all indicate u thriving place of l>u>iness, which Buenos Ayiv.- unquestionably i<. V. of the streets running direct from the r'mr an three miles in length, and tlu-y cow r an I'jiial breadth, so it is easy to judge tin- e\t-nt of the Around r- besides which, very many handsome quintas, or country houses, are to be seen in -n t.ut.-ide the city. The streets generally are bad ake very rough work for carts and carriage > tin in, but these manage to get along with conn wear and tear of wheels and springs, as well as h feet, which, however, appear to be quite a secon; consideration. Aitn- tin- wi-11-pavi-d >nveN of Uio (It- Janeiro, both Monti- Video and I'.uenos Ayres cut a very poor figure; but the worst feature i> the ; of sewerage, and tin- refuse of the town i- at tin. offensive to the olfactory nerves, and the appellative "good airs,'' which is otherwiM a ohtt -tic of the place under ordinary ri remittances, << nature intended it to be. The inhabitant.- sei-ni to 1. had a >vretched municipal system ; but for this tin -on why the city should not be well drained, well paved, as well as properly lighted with -rus, which latter is now the case. Strangers have a choice of really very large and com- modious hotels, and there are boarding and lodging hauses of various kinds. 1-ui at M-a.-ons accommodation in them is very ditlicult to obtain. Mich i> the consti increase of demand l.y vi>i well a- ly permaiu-nt residents ; in fact, the reijuiremeiits of the population THE CITY OF BUENOS AYRES. 105 are constantly overtaking the facilities of the city, and there appears to be no reasonable limit to its extension north, south, and west, the river facing eastward. The chief increase, however, has been westward, or in a straight line from the river frontage into the country. Owing to the necessities of an augmenting population, the price of building land in or near the city has been driven up to a very high figure, and rents, as a matter of course, are excessive. Increased population has been followed by enhanced luxury, which manifests itself in the style of architecture, in the splendid shops, in the number of private carriages as well as those for hire, but naturally this has been attended by an inflated ex- penditure. Living in Buenos Ayres is now quite as expensive as in London or Paris ; perhaps more so as regards luxuries, the import duties on which are very heavy. Generally, Buenos Ayres is a dear place to live in. Amongst other new buildings is the large theatre called Colon, and a Music-hall, the latter erected by private subscription. It is lofty and light, tastefully decorated, and I believe very well filled when concerts are held there, being also occasionally used for dinners. The busiest part of the city, commercially speaking, is down by the Custom House and on to the Boca, the latter the rendezvous of lighters conveying produce to the ships in the outer roads, as well as of small steamers bound up river, and I understand that 300 lighters are now engaged in this work, many of them of good size and decked over. It is in contemplation to deepen and enlarge the Riachuelo, as the stream alluded to is called, and a most useful work it will be, as it is almost the mainstay of the port. At the other extremity of the city, which borders on the Northern Railway, wash- in": of clothes is carried on among the willow trees which o o 106 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. border the river ; it is quite a sight on a fine sunny day. On the high ground about and beyond the TJctiro, numerous handsome villas have been erected and the Retiro itself has been planted with trees, forming n pleasant promenade. In addition to other improve- ments and conveniences, omnibuses now ply from tin- city in various directions, so that locomotion is revenue has doubled itself within a very few years. BUENOS AYRES TO COLONIA.- ESTANZUELA. THE invitation of Mr. William White to spend a few clays at his estancia took me over to Colonia, from which it is distant about 15 miles, amidst the beautiful undula- ting country of the Banda Oriental. Three to four hours is the time usually occupied in crossing the river, almost in a direct line from Buenos Ay res, and the steamer in which I embarked had very comfortable accommodation but few passengers on board. There was a small boat in opposition to the one I was in, and we arrived very close together. Colouia is one of the oldest settlements in the River, being built upon a peninsula jutting out into the stream, with a snug little harbour, which is in course of im- provement. The town presents a dilapidated arid neglected appearance, which is accounted for by its having, until recently, been fortified, and made the head-quarters of different factions during the long civil wars. There is a large church, with three high towers, visible at a considerable distance, and a lighthouse for the protection of vessels passing, as several low islands are situated close to the harbour. Some good looking houses have lately been erected, and the site of a new town laid, but it will be many years before it is likely 108 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. to assume any importance. I noticed an old gateway, with an inscription dated 17:M over it. I found Mr. White's carriage, waiting fr me at Colonia. It was drawn by four horses, the road being heavy for a few miles, but after that we got into a good one, a kind of beaten track over what is called the eainpo. and lor the first time I realised the pleasurable feeling of travelling over a sea of land, it' it can he so named, wl. < pting an occasional J7U&&?, or shep- herd's hut, not a human habitation is to be seen. Tin: undulations of the land are here very like the long roll of the ocean, by which it is supposed to have hreii formed, and you are at once in the midst of cattle, horses, and sheep, with grass and thistles growing i \ > ry- where, the thistles in many cases being masters of situation. It was getting foggy before we reached Mr. White's neia, but the light of the moon assisted our coi across an apparently trackless country. I found Mr. White's quinta a very pretty and comfortable n-ideiice, surrounded by trees and evergreens, all of which 1 been planted by the present owner. The whole place is in fact the creation of some ten years, lowing what can be done in this country by a judicious application of capital and labour. The house and estate cover a <-e of some nine square miles, the former being built on an elevated spot, called " Monte " (or the "Mount,") and occupying with grounds about 50 acres of good rich soil, overlooking ,111 amphitheatre of hill and dale, which stretches as far as the eye can reach, with "puestos" or shepherds' cottages at regular distances, where the cattle and sheep are collected together at dusk and let out again at daylight. This is a m interesting process, which I have seen described, but it BUENOS AYRES TO COLONIA. 109 can only be realised personally. It is something like marshalling a scattered army and bringing them into a given square. The shepherds or peons go galloping about until the cattle and sheep are gathered together, when they all, as by a kind of instinct, find their way to the corral or fold. At dawn the following morning they are let out again and roam for miles over the estate. The arrangements at a good estancia like that of Mr. White's are very complete, and every one understands his work, but of course the eye of a master is required to see that the work is properly done. The stock on this estancia consists of about 30,000 sheep, upwards of 1,000 head of cattle, and some 100 horses. My first day was employed in visiting several of the stations, and very agreeable it was cantering over the springy turf, clothed with grass and thistles, where the sheep and cattle were quietly feeding. Buttercups glittered in the sunshine, but we missed the modest daisies so familiar at home. We were on horseback five hours, and I returned to dinner highly delighted with all I had seen. The second day we took the carriage and a guri, as partridges are plentiful and innumerable flocks of doves. Paid a visit to the estancia of Mr. Giffard, about six miles distant in a direct line, but further by the course we had to take, partly over the open campo. Returning we came close upon some half-dozen ostriches and Mr. White shot at and wounded a very fine male ; but it was a painful sight to see the struggles of the poor bird, and we were obliged to get one of the men from a neighbouring station to dispatch it with his knife. Many of these noble birds are still to be met with in the campo, where they are pursued by the natives for the value of the feathers. I was presented with a portion of the feathers 110 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. of the ostrich killed as described. The third day we were again on horseback for several hours, with a 1><>\- carrying a gun and some refreshment. "We rode along one of the running streams with which the campo U favoured, to look for some ducks, but the stream- \ very low, and we only succeeded in ba^-pnir one. 1 i streams are invaluable for cattle, and the Banda < Oriental in this respect is more fortunate than Buenos Aviv>, and in consequence suffers less from drought. Finding game so scarce, the boy was sent home, and we cantered on to visit some of the other stations 1 had not yi-l MTU. the weather throughout being beautifully line, elear sunshine, with a bracing and most exhilirating bn There are some curious collections of rocks moMly on the margins of the streams. Huge boulders, thrown up it would seem by some convulsion of naimv. and between which trees and enormous cactuses have loi their way, in cases even splitting the stone, ispi-ci. present a most singular appearance. About Mr. < ! Hani's quinta there is quite a large formation of this kind, ai.d a collection of very fine ombu trees, several with immense trunks and evidently of great age. To-day, the last of my visit, has been spent in ri about the quinta, watching the operation of lassoing and bringing into the corral a refractory bull and cow t ', had left their companions and roamed miles away. The dexterity of the peons, and the w manage their horses on these occasions, is something wonderful, and fairly exhausts the strength of the animals. This is the iinest season of the year in these coun' and it is impossible to imagine anything more pleasing or more cheerful than the present aspect of the can The next two or three months cun^itute the wii, season, which is rainy and cold. September and BUENOS AYRES TO COLONIA. Ill October (their spring) are generally fine. The heat of summer is, of course, considerable, but it is not so much felt in the open country, where a fresh breeze, as a rule, prevails ; it is the towns that are most disagreeable at that period. To-morrow, I return to Colonia, highly gratified with all I have observed, and with the kind hospitality I have experienced. As I have said, partridges are abundant, but they commonly go singly, and without a pointer they are difficult to follow. Mr. White, however, shot two brace close to his house, when we were walking out before breakfast, and several single ones on other occa- sions. They are prettily marked birds and delicate eating. He did not happen to have a suitable dog by him at the time. The shepherds all keep fine dogs, mostly of the retriever breed, to assist them in managing their flocks, and there were a good many attached to the house and out-build ings ; one of the former, a Scotch terrier, and myself becoming very great friends. TRIP ON THE CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY. I AM writing this on board the "Lujan" steamer, built in Buenos Ayres, with engines by a Glasgow house. SI it- is a comfortable boat, with good accommodation for passengers, and the "vivers" excellent, including even champagne at dinner, which in this count rv is rather an expensive luxury. After a lapse of fifteen years I find myself once more ascending the noble Parana river, which at that time was alnnt unknown in Kuenos Ayres, the little "Argentine" being the first commercial steamer that ever navigated its waters. I predicted tin- results a few years would bring about, and inv expec- tations have been more than realised, the river hcinir now as freely navigated by steamers as some of those in the United States, with the difference of course that there is not the same amount of population on its banks population being still the great want of this boundless region. The station for passengers for the up-river boats U now the terminus of the Northern Railway, at a >mall stream called Tigre, which is reached in something o'ver an hour's time. We left the station at 10 a.m., and arrived at the wharf alongside which the steamer lay at 11.30. All the passengers, with their luggage, were soon on board, and we started, wending our way through the CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY. 113 small branches of the Parana, in many places not wider than a canal, the steamer brushing against the over- hanging trees. A couple of hours brought us at last into the wide embouchure of the river at a point named Palmas. The advantage of the Tigre as a starting point for steamers is that it avoids the disagreeable boating in the roads of Buenos Ayres and crossing the bay for Martin Garcia ; in every way it is a desirable arrangement, alike beneficial to the steamers and to the railway. Upwards of a dozen steamers were laying outside the Tigre, in a stream called Lujan (after which this boat is named), two of them large double-decked Yankee river boats and nearly all of them without occupation a terrible sacrifice of valuable property. Having discussed a solid dejeuner a la fourcliette, I came on deck to enjoy the scenery. It was blowing a fresh breeze, dead against us, with a strong current and very cold, cloaks and great coats being a necessity although the day was bright and sunny. For several hours we steamed along, passing only jungle and dense masses of trees, with numerous sailing craft at anchor, laden with cargo, many bound upwards, no doubt with stores for the army in Paraguay. Just before sunset we passed a very fine quinta, belonging to the Minister of Education, Senor Costa, built on a beautiful barranca, or elevated ground, a short wav from the river, the horsemen on the heights J presenting a very picturesque appearance. Dinner was announced, which occupied fully an hour, and afterwards I went on deck and enjoyed a night on the noble Parana. The wind had gone down, and the stars shed their light over the still water, on which the shadow of the trees was reflected, our course being occa- p 114 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. sionally close to them, though at times we had to take the mid stream. Now and again the sky was lighted up with fires, caused, I believe, by the burning of wood for charcoal, a process which might go on for centuries without exhausting the illimitable extent of wood. A large traffic is carried on in this material by river craft to Buenos Ayres and Monte Video. AVe stopped to land passengers at a station called Ilermanos, and soon after passed two or three steamers at anchor, with some sailing vessels near them, no doubt connected with the war services. Our passengers arc a motley group, speaking all languages, and amusing themselves by playing cards, chess, and dominoes, the while talking and chattering away at the top of their voices ; some ladies amongst them as merry as the rest. Many Italians, French, and Germans are met on board these steamers, but comparatively few English, who remain more in the cities and towns, or at their estancias when resident in the country. Alter a fine, clear, starlight night, the latter part aided by a bright moon, the day broke grandly, and we soon came to anchor at the little port of San Nicolas, where we landed and took in some passengers. Then came a good, substantial breakfast, am-1 at about eleven o'clock the large sa]aderos near Rosario were in sight. We brought up alongside a coal hulk, where the steamer had to take in fuel before returning to Buenos Ayres the same afternoon. A number of sailing vessels and steamers were laying at anchor at Rosario, making quite a busy scene. I landed in a small punt to find my way to the house of a friend. The aspect of Rosario was not much changed, looking at it from the river, with the towers of the church in the background, the town itself being more or less concealed by the high barranca. On entering it, CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY. 115 however, I was quite lost. Streets have been extended in every direction for more than a mile, and I should say it has doubled or trebled in size and population since I was here. Whatever prejudicial effects the Para- guayan war may have produced in other respects, there can be no question that Rosario has largely benefitted, the place being one of call for steamers and sailing vessels up and down ; and it also supplies a considerable quantity of stores for the army. The value of land and property has gone up to a high figure, and the poorer portion of the population are obliged to squat wherever they can find room to build a rancho, or kind of mud hut. Gauchos galloping about in their picturesque costume showed that we were in a new province, and although civilisation has extended itself here somewhat after the fashion of Buenos Ay res, there are evident signs that it is intermingled with much of the wild habits of a life in the Pampas. The great object of my visit here was of course to see the Central Argentine Railway, and certainly those accustomed to the imposing appearance of railway stations at home will' hardly be impressed with the rough and ready wildness of the scene which presents itself here. A few disjointed wooden sheds in an open plain, one side bordering on the river, some carriages and covered waggons on the rails, at this time consti- tutes the terminus of a line already carried 158 miles into the interior ; but all this is merely temporary and will give place to the permanent station now in process of formation, and upon which hundreds of labourers are at present constantly at work. The material is all there in readiness, and the station would have been much further advanced had it not been for the cholera, which caused such terrible devastations here a few months 11G BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. ago. Internal commotions have, also tended to retard progress. Happily these scourges are for the time at least passed away, and it is to be hoped nothing will ;i;jain interfere to prevent the completion of a line of such vital interest in connection with the material development of the country between Rosario and Cordova. I was curious to see the first arrival and starting of the trains, which did not indicate much traffic; but this can hardly be looked for until tin- metals are carried through and the railway possesses all the needful appli- ances, not to speak of tin- prejudices of a people who have been accustomed to gallop over the wide plains like the Arabs of old, and use those antique structures drawn by bullocks, which are yet destined to !< aban- doned to rot in their final resting place, or be removed further west to bring traffic to the Cordova station. Engineeringly speaking, it is the easiest possible task to make a railway through such a countrv as this, but other drawbacks and difficulties exist in the absence of population and of conveniences to which we are accu tomed in England. It is a refreshing sight in Rosario to see so large a mixture of the foreign element. New bunks and large establishments are in operation and Kstanceiros constantly coming into town to transact their business. Among the visitors at K o>ario are many Englishmen from the districts round about, who hav not been murdered by the Indians, notwithstanding the stories prevalent to that effect, and 1 hear of numerous thriving colonies in the neighbourhood, Avhich I regret O O rj time will not permit my visiting, as the extent of my ramble must now be confined to going over the railwav. I repeat that my impression as to the future of Rosario, after all it has lately gone through, is favourable, and I CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY. 117 am perfectly satisfied of the go-a-head nature of every thing in this prosperous province. The train for Rosario starts at 8 a.m., and is due at Villa Nueva, a distance of 158 miles, at 6 p.m., travel- ling at an average speed of nearly sixteen miles an hour, including eight stoppages quite sufficient for present purposes, with a train composed of waggons and two American passenger cars, one for first and the other for second class. We got off a little after eight o'clock Avith a good long train and the cars were' pretty well filled. For the first two or three stations the ground is slightly undulating, covered with good pasture, on which numerous herds of cattle, flocks of sheep, and horses were feeding ; afterwards, or about half-way between Rosario and Villa Nueva, there are few cattle seen, though the food for them is there in any quantity. At Rolclau, the first station from Rosario, some tents were erected, and horses collected, in course of training ' O for the races to be held on Monday next, the 25th of May, at which there is generally a large gathering of sporting characters from that and other districts, as also of spectators from Rosario. It is an English club, with the usual array of stewards, umpires, &c. The meeting is expected to be a very good one. The next station is Carcaranal, near which the river is crossed by a hand- some iron bridge, the river itself flowing for a very long distance through the province of Cordova and Santa Fe, ultimately merging its waters with those of the Parana. These first two stations are mere mud huts, being only temporary, but Carcaranal has the additional disadvan- tage of being placed in the midst of a black, dismal, dry lagoon, where a butcher's establishment is kept for supplying a portion of the company's workmen on the line with meat. The rancho, or station for the passen- 118 BRAZIL AXD THE RIVER PLATE. gers, might as well be removed, however, a few hundred yards further back, the engine going on to get its supply of water at one of the tanks placed here, instead of the olfactory IUTVCS of the passengers being exposed to an ordeal of no agreeable character. I believe the nuisance is much complained of and will soon be removed. The next station, Canada de Gomez, is a verv respectable brick-built one, well kept, where we found some excellent partridges just cooked, which soon dis- appeared amongst hungry passengers, who had not time to breakfast before leaving, and there wi-iv al> other refreshments. About this and Tortugas station is some very good land, and numerous English estaiicias in the neighbourhood, which I am assured are in a thriviii"- O ' "" condition, the aspect of the country being also more cheerful. "We saw the plough at work, and I believe a large quantity of corn will soon be grown in this district. Further on, about Leoiies station, the country becomes more monotonous, one dead sea of brown-looking grass, without cattle or any appearance of cultivation, and not a shrub or tree to be seen. AYe passed a long train of carts from Kosario, filled with merchandise for distant places; also troops of laden mules going in the same direction, as the facilities ottered by the railway are not yet sufficient to do away with this cumbrous and expensive mode of transit. This, however, is only a question of time. As we approached Frayle .Muerto station, trees began to appear, and we passed through quite a forest, which was very pleasant after the long stretch of land bare of shrub or tree. The station at Frayle Muerto is a substantial brick building, and will be very commodious when completed. AYe had plenty of time to get some dinner here, and CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY. 119 being rather behind, it was dark when we reached the present terminus at Villa Nueva, where I was kindly received by the manager, Mr. Lloyd, who gave me a shake down for the night at his comfortable little cottage close to the station. There I found a nephew of Mr. Wheelright and Senor Don Gonzalez, late Minister of Finance, with his family, waiting to proceed to Cordova next morning. I was fortunate, too, in having for fellow-travellers on the line Senor Moneta, the Government engineer, and Senor Crisofuli, both proceeding to Cordova on business connected with the railway, so the journey passed very agreeably and was anything but fatiguing for the distance. There is ample room in the carriages, which also have the advantage of enabling the passengers to go from one portion to the other and conversing with acquaintances who may happen to be there. This is much better than being stuck in a close carriage without any chance of relief. Indeed, I think for all South American railways the American saloon carriages are the most suitable as well as the most economical. J was up early next morning to see the train start at seven for Rosario, and diligences for Cordova, Rio Cuarto, and other places. The last was a most comical sight. The mode of conveyance has been frequently described by travellers, so I will not enlarge on the subject. The diligences remind me of the old French malleposte, only the gearing is all hide instead of rope, and they are drawn by six horses, all mounted by peons, with very long traces, each horse seemingly independent of the others. The poor brutes, mostly with sore backs, are first driven into a corral close to the diligence station, where they are lassoed one by one, a halter thrown over their necks, and then taken to be saddled. 120 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. The diligence station is a very busy place at tins turn-. several starting at the same time for Cordova and other distant places; there arc also private carriages, and all goes to show how extensive the passenger traffic will be when the line is open to Cordova. The time occu- pied in this latter part of the route is so long that a large supply of vehicles is required, as well as hor but the latter may be had almost for the catching ; at all events their cost is very trifling. After M-i-ing tin- start, I went over the railway station works, and found evident signs of considerable traffic, even with an un- finished line. A large space of ground adjoining the station was filled with bullock waggons, sonic discharg- ing cargo into railway waggons, while carts conveyed merchandise brought up by train from Ilusario to other bullock waggons at a short distance, as there was no space for them about the station, where a large com- modious brick warehouse has been built and works on a large scale are in course of erection, which will greatly facilitate the traffic now carried on. In fact, all \ bustle and traffic under difficulties. Amongst the pro- duce brought down was wool in bales, dry hides, wheat, large bars of copper, fruit, and other articles, not even omitting fowls in large coops, which had been brought all the way from Cordova. The day was very fine and sunny, and after break- fast I accompanied Mr. Lloyd on horseback to visit a large forest and lake two or three leagues distant from the station. Here, the wood used for locomotives is cut. It is found to answer better than coal, and is of course much cheaper. ~\Yc passed over the newly laid rails and earthworks intended for a continuation of the line, along which piles of cut wood, extending at least a quarter of a mile, were laid, as well as a large quantity CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY. 121 of wooden sleepers of excellent quality, to be used, I believe, between this and Cordova.. We then struck across the campo to the forest, soon after entering Avhich we came upon one of the most picturesque lakes I remember to have seen. We rode along the margin, which is chiefly sand, seeing numbers of wild fowl and black-necked swans. The water was beautifully clear. There are numbers of otters here, and at the upper end are immense rushes, which are gathered for roofing the ranches built for the company's peons. We then struck into the forest again, and with some difficulty worked our way through it, the lining of my coat being torn off, as I was hardly got up for such an expedition. The forest is partly the property of the railway and of one of the religious establishments at Cordova, and it is capable of supplying sleepers to make the line to that city, as well as to supply fuel for the locomotives for years to come. The railway has quite a little colony here cutting wood, which is conveyed to a small steam saw mill on the line, and dealt with most expeditiously there. On our way home we visited the company's farm, where the plough was at work, turning up a rich loamy soil, and next year it is expected a good crop of wheat will be taken, besides potatoes, Indian corn, grass for the horses, &c. In short, it will soon become a very pro- ductive farm, being also completely fenced in so as to keep out cattle. The plough was being driven by a young Somersetshire man, who evidently understood his work. At length we finished our tour of inspection of about twenty miles very much pleased and gratified with what I had seen, and much impressed with the important future that awaits the landed property of the company, 122 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. in addition to the line becoming a great main trunk one across this part of South America. Seeing is believing, and if shareholders who are sceptical as to the future could take a trip out here to satisfy themselves, they would be quite re-assured on this point. Many doubts have been thrown upon the enterprise, which I have never entertained, from my previous knowledge of the country, and my confidence is muchincrea-rd l>v a personal inspection of the line itself and the traffic which evidently exists ready to come on the metals when proper provision is made for it. The company are about laying down the telegraph wires, which will be a great advantage and prevent accidents, besides establishing a valuable means of communication and saving much time. Indeed, no line can be efficient without it. I return to Rosario to-morrow, having only a few days to spare before embarking for Eng- land; otherwise I should have gone on to Cordova and spent some time in this interesting region, whose only want is population to render it one of the most pro- ductive of the globe. When I made a hasty visit to Rosario in 1853 I formed a very strong opinion of its future importance from the position it occupied in connection with the river navigation and the traffic of the Western pro- vinces; but the establishment of the Central Argentine Railway has immensely added to the other advantages of Rosario, and accounts for the great increase that has recently taken place in building and population. Thus far, however, the benefit is in a great measure prospec- tive, the railway being still incomplete. Nevertheless, there can be little doubt that the sanguine views of speculators on the future will be realised so soon as the line is finished. ^CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY. 123 It is only in traversing the streets that one becomes aware of the great extent of the town, which is built in squares after the usual manner in this country. Several commercial establishments, some banks, and many really good shops now exist, and there is difficulty, I am in- formed, in finding house room for the numerous settlers in the town. I was surprised to find so large a number of cafes crowded at night by all classes, and there is also a little theatre, where, in the absence of regular performances, masked balls are frequently held. These are not of the most edifying description, but the people will amuse themselves in some way, and better this than political conspiracies, of which Rosario has often been the scene. As I have before said the port presents quite a busy appearance ; but there are no facilities in the way of wharves and landing places, which would be a vast convenience to traffic, as everything has now to be done by boats. Some gas works are in course of erection, on the river side, but owing to bad foundations or want of care the chimney fell down and only the skeleton walls appear. It will be a great blessing to the town and suburbs when they are lighted with gas, as on dark nights perambulation is difficult even with the aid of the miserable oil lamps at present in use. There is an American Missionary Chapel near the railway station, and recently the nucleus of an English Protestant Con- gregation has been formed under the auspices of the Rev. Mr. Combe, appointed by the South American Missionary Society. Service is just now performed in a room, but efforts are being made to build a chapel, as the number of English residents continues to increase. Mr. Combe also holds service at Frayle Muerto, where BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. some sixty Englishmen reside on farms within a few leagues of each other. I had occasion to visit the Protestant burial ground at Rosario to attend the funeral of a young Englishman who died under melancholy circumstances, and t sorry to notice that it presented a very forlorn aspect and was situate in a very inconvenient locality. Many interments took place here during the cholera, which was very fatal to foreigners as well as to the nati who were decimated, and the works of the railway H also retarded by this terrible scourge. Before closing my notice of the railway, I may add that I had an opportunity, through the kindness of Mr. Woods, the company's engineer, of inspecting the plan-; of the new railway station, and of going over the ground, which will be enclosed to the extent of 3,200 feet in length, with a fine river frontage on the Parana, v> ; ^3 7 ^j there is a depth of 18 to 20 feet of water close alongside. This will be a great facility in dealing with the river traffic. As regards the materials for the use of the line, they have all been landed on their own wharf and drawn up an incline, as the bank on which the station stands is at a considerable elevation above the r! Eventually, I believe, it is the intention of the company to facilitate both their passenger and goods traffic- by means of landing wharves, which would be a gr ing of expense and time. One thing i> vi :-\ -certain, that the Rosario station will be the finest and i complete in South America. THE WESTERN RAILWAY OF BUENOS AYRES. I HAD a very pleasant excursion over the Western Railway as far as Mercedes, in company with some friends. Mr. Emilio Castro, Government Superinten- dent of the railways in the province of Buenos Ayres, to the Government of which this line belongs, accom- panied us, and he kindly provided a very luxurious saloon carriage for the occasion. We left the Parque station at 8 a.m., going over some curves of a formidable nature, and along streets until we came to the company's goods station and workshops. The latter are on a very extensive scale. After this we got fairly on the main line, which is single, except at certain stations where the trains cross each other. How any engineer could have been bold enough to construct such curves, or the Government could allow locomotives to run through the streets, it is difficult to conceive, as there must always be much risk both to the train and to passengers. There are also some heavy gradients before the goods station is reached, which increases the danger, but people seem to have become familiarised with it. For the first twelve miles to Flores station the country presents a succession of quintas, or country houses, many large and picturesque, and Flores itself is quite a large and extensive town, though merely a 126 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. suburb of Buenos Ayres. The town is called San Jose de Flores, and near it is a large Anglo- Argentine school, where the train stops. Flores station is a very good one, capable of being doubled, with a peculiar pattern of li^ht ornamental roofing inside. In the summer O O season the traffic to and from Flores is very considerable, and there is also a large resident population. After leaving Flores, we got more into the open campo, with plenty of cattle, sheep, and horses about, and numerous farm buildings, until we reached Floreste station, close to which is a large fanciful looking building, originally intended, I believe, for a hotel, but it does not appear to have been successful as a speculation. San Martin is an important station, diligences and carriages being in attendance to convey people to the neighbouring villages of San Gusto, Santa Lucia, and San Martin, one of which was called Rozas' Saladero, from the number of victims he is said to have sacrificed there at a prison established for his political enemies. Near this station are some fine, handsome quintas, belonging to the Madero family, the country being well wooded, with many farms, and the same features are observable as far as the Moron station, near which the battle of Caceres was fought, o which decided the fate of Rozas. There is a theatre close to this station, and Moron is quite a large town, having grown up under the influence of the railway. A public road runs in proximity to the line for a distance of some fifteen miles, which is very objectionable, and the rails might just as well have been laid a few squares apart from it. After passing Moron we got more into the open canipo, with large flocks of sheep, droves of cattle, and horses feeding all around, until we reached the ancient Spanish town of Merlo, which has a church, with a little steeple very like that of a village church BUENOS AYRES WESTERN RAILWAY. 127 at home. There is a nice looking two-storied house there, built by Mr. Boyd, planted with trees, showing they will grow well enough if people will take the trouble to plant them, and I understand Mr. Boyd was the first to introduce the gum tree, which now flourishes in many gardens in the neighbourhood. A branch line is shortly to be constructed from this place to Lobos, some forty miles south-west, through, I am told, a very rich part of the province, and from which district a large traffic is expected. A river, called Las Conchas, runs near Merlo, crossed by an iron bridge, the first I have seen on the line, there being only open culverts where the line crosses streams or watercourses. The next station we came to was Moreno, a new town built since the opening of the line. Midway between Moreno and Lujan is a small station called General Rodriguez. Lujan is one of the oldest towns in the province, a river of that name running past it to the Parana, joining the little stream of Tigre, the terminus of the Northern Railway, whence passenger steamers go up to Rosario. There is a large station and warehouse at Lujan, where a quantity of wheat was being loaded into carts, to be ground in a mill called the " Mill of the Virgins," a name which I conclude arises from an anecdote recorded as to the formation of the town. A travelling expedition, it would seem, while conveying an image of the Virgin, came to a standstill here, nor could the animals be made to proceed until the image was left on the spot. So it remained, and to this day it is a place of great religious festivities; and express trains are run from Buenos Ayres on these occasions. Whatever may be the real facts of the case, the Lujan Mills grind good flour. The wheat is grown in Chivilcoy, the present terminus of the Western line. It is small but hard. It was to BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. 128 Liijan that General Beresford sent a detachment in 1807, when the first attack was made on Buenos Ayres, arising out of the war with Spain, and which was su< quently renewed under such disastrous circumstances by General Whitelock. I merely make this allusion to show that at that time it was a town of some import- ance. The little station of Oliveres comes next, but is yet only in course of erection, in the midst of an immense open campo, with large flocks of slu'i p and plenty of cattle to be seen in all directions. A fine stream of water crosses this part of the: rampo. Tin- thistles, about which we hear so much, abound in most parts of the cainpo, but the dry season lias kepi tin in down, and they do not rise much above tin. Mirlaee, nor do they appear to prevent the growth of -uitaliK- for sheep and cattle. No donkeys are seen in (his country to luxuriate on the abundance of thistle s, and very few mules, horses being generally used and \ badly treated. Their dead carcasses are frequently encountered, as^when "used-up," they are turned adrift to die in the campo. A few miles further brought us to Mercedes, a town of some 12,000 inhabitants, the terminus of the railway before it was lately opened to Chivilcoy, an extension of forty miles, making a total distance of 100 miles now open, and the number of stations denotes the amount of traffic carried on by this railway, for which it has a stock of 420 wagons and 20 locomotives, besides passenger cars, chiefly the large American description. The Western Railway was originally a small passenger line to San Jose de Flores, but was afterwards continued and opened by sections, the point for goods traffic only commencing at the great open square called the llth of September, where the goods traffic in bullock carts has BUENOS AYRES WESTERN RAILWAY. 129 always been carried on. A large number of bullock carts still find their way to that market. We remained at Mercedes to enjoy an excellent lunch provided for us by the station master, who resides there with his family, as going on to Chivilcoy would have entailed the loss of another day, and having to sleep there with probably limited accommodation. The sta- tion at Mercedes is a very fine one, with iron pillars and a corrugated roof, brought from England ; also a large roadside shed for the locomotives, workshops, &c. The large area of ground occupied by the station must be with a view to future requirements. Omnibuses and a diligence were waiting to convey passengers to the town, which is near the station, and to distant places. We did not go into the town, as it looked rather dusty and our time was limited, having to return by a special train at 1.30. We rode some distance back on the engine, making twenty-one miles in thirty-five minutes over part of the campo, and reached the Parque station at Buenos Ayres about five o'clock, or three and half hours for a distance of about sixty miles ; but we had to wait at two stations for the up train to cross, besides calling at most of the other stations, all of which involved a good deal of delay. The engines have to water frequently, and there was a scarcity of coal, so they were obliged to burn slack, mixed with cinders, causing some difficulty in keeping up steam. It must be admitted that the Government have shown real energy and determination in prosecuting this railway, which is of great benefit to the Province, and I believe well managed, yielding a good return for the capital invested. The rails used on this line are the Barlow, and they are in very excellent condition after being down several years. The line 130 BRAZIL AND THE EIVER PLATE. from Mercedes to Chivilcoy is laid with Griffin's rails, which I understand are not so rigid as the Barlow. There is no wood suitable for sleepers in this part of the country. It is intended to carry on the line to the north end of Buenos Ayres, and to build a wharf out to the river, thus enabling the company to land and .ship, goods without passing through the city, which will be a great conve- nience and save expense, besides the advantage of opening up communications with the other railways by such a branch line. Eventually there is to be a Central Station on the beach for all the railways, so that goods and passengers can be conveyed from one to the other. A s already observed, a branch is to be made from the Merlo station to the town of Lobos, and no doubt it will be carried further in that direction, so as to develop the resources of the country. All this will require time, and a large outlay of money, for which the Government is not prepared now, but it is sure to be accomplished later on, with many more urgent improvements required in this large and growing city. We had a very fine day for our excursion, and enjoyed it much, thanks to the kindness of Mr. Emilio Castro, who made ample provision for creature comforts, and was exceedingly attentive. Mr. Allen, the engineer for the line, was also of the party, and gave us much valuable information. He has been many years out here, and with his brother, has worked his way to tin important and responsible position. In the Appendix will be found a very interesting description of the workshops of the Western Railway, which we extract from the columns of the Buenos Ayres Standard, an influential paper extensively circu- lated in the River Plate. BUENOS AYRES.-SECOND NOTICE. THE more I look over this great city the more I am struck with its increase, as well as the luxury by which it has been attended, evinced in the style of building and in the large private establishments, some of which are really on a princely scale. Speaking of public buildings, I do not much admire the opera house, called the Colon it is badly formed and the decorations are too heavy. The gas-lights are ugly, being plain jets instead of small gas chandeliers. They give a very common-place look to the whole. The tiers of boxes look too much like boxes, and ought to be light and open, suited to the country. The entrances and corridors are also very rough and nearly as bad as the unfinished theatre at San Paulo, though the design of the latter is infinitely superior. On the other hand, the secondary theatres are cheerful little places, and the new Music Hall, built by private subscription, is a model for lightness and elegance. I attended an amateur concert there, and was much pleased; some fifty ladies and gentlemen forming the vocal strength, aided by a large instrumental orchestra. It was a sight not often seen at home, where la mauvaise honte would prevent so agreeable a gathering. The large hall was quite filled and the programme gone through most systematically. In alluding to this building, I may remark that it is 132 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. precisely of the same dimensions as the new River Plate Bank, being by the same architect. This Bank occupies a large corner area of one of the most central streets in the city, and can vie in architectural eilect with many of the new buildings in Lombard-street, with the advan- tage of being much better seen. The churches have often been described, and the cathedral is now a finished, handsome building, \ well kept up both externally and internally, and religious observances and masses are very freijurnt. The Clubs of Buenos Ayres hold a conspicuous place in connection with politics, and they occasionally afford opportunities for beauty and fashion to meet at the balls held in them. The Progreso occupies the first rank, the La Plata the second, and latterly a Club called Kl Temple h;i- bn n established. I was up the country when the T ball was held, and missed the invitation, as well as that for the Temple, but attended the ball of the La PI where 500 or 600 ladies and gentlemen were collected ; a very gay and cheerful meeting, where all ap- peared to feel at home and enjoy themselves. South American society has the charm of being free from the stiffness and formality which exists in aristocratic society at home. The ladies, however, add great elegance of dress to their personal graces, which are very considerable, and they dance with great ease. With reference to the female population of Buenos Ayres, the fifes held on the anniversary of Independence (25th of May) present an excellent opportunity for seeing them to advantage out of doors. The weather was Jim-, and the Plaxa Victoria, as well as the leading stn was filled with well dressed ladies, particularly at night to see the fireworks. The ladies go about very freely, those who keep carriages, or can afford to hire them, BUENOS AYRES SECOND NOTICE. 133 generally driving a short way out of town when they are not visiting their friends. Society in Buenos Ayres is decidedly of the free and easy, friendly style, and characterised by much hospitality. The democratic element in the constitution naturally stirs up a good deal of political feeling, but I do not find this to affect the private relations of life so much as might be ex- pected. Party spirit runs high, and the "young Repub- licans " especially are very bitter towards those who differ from them ; but of late years political animosity has not been stained in the Argentine Confederation with crimes such as those which have prevailed at Monte Video. The continuance of the Paraguayan war and the Alliance with Brazil have lately been the great bone of contention, and shows itself on the eve of the election of a new president, on the result of Avhich the future peace of the country may more or less depend. I looked over the Museum, where many fine ante- diluvian specimens found in this country are preserved, together with a variety of curiosities in natural history, animals, birds, &c., the whole being under the superin- tendence of Dr. Burmeister, who is a very superior man, and I believe remains there more from his love of natural history than for the remuneration attached to the office. He has travelled much over the South American Continent. Numerous fine hospitals exist in Buenos Ayres, both native and foreign, and the English one, which I visited in company with Mr. Boyd, chairman of the committee, and the Rev. Mr. Ford, is a very good establishment, well deserving of support by the British community and by our own Government. The hospital was for- merly an old quinta, and is beautifully situated at the east end of the city, overlooking the river, the Boca, Bar- 134 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. racas, and the country round as far as the we can roach. It has been greatly enlarged, forming three sides of :i hquare, the fourth comprising a neat fever ward, run up last year for cholera patients, and it proved of very great utility. The wards, on both the ground floor and upper story, are kept very clean, and Dr. Reid, the medical attendant, resides on the premises, having occu- pied his position for six years. The building and ground are the property of the hospital and have much incrca>e< 1 in value, but the difficulty is in meeting the annual penses, which can only be done by voluntary subscript ion .-. What is required to keep up the establiflhmenl properly is a small tonnage rate on British ships, and inasmuch as sailors derive the chief benefit from the hospital, 1 cannot see why this should not be done. The expenses attendant on such an institution in a foreign country are considerable, if it is to be kept hi a state of efficiency. Formerly there was a tonnage rate of this kind levied on British shipping, which may have led to some al> and been done away with from some "ignorant im- patience of taxation," but there is no valid reason why shipping should not contribute to the support of hospitals, from which, as I have already observed, it derives the greatest amount of benefit, and without which sailors would be exposed to great hard>hip>. One of the disadvantages of the Spanish system of building their towns and cities in square blocks is that it creates a sameness in the streets, and narrows the approaches to them, leaving no scope for great leading thoroughfares, so that there is a constant turning of corners, and but for the names being pretty generally posted up it would be difficult for strangers to find their way. In reply to inquiries as to am particular house or locality, you are generally told that it is so BUENOS AYRES SECOND NOTICE. 135 many squares off, so that taking the right bearing or departure you can easily find out what you want. Then the houses are legibly numbered, which, combined with their plan of municipal taxation, ought to render a correct census easy, but there seems to be some strong objection to " numbering the people," which I cannot account for, and to this day no one is able to tell you the population of Buenos Ayres with any certainty ; some calculations only giving 100,000, others 150,000, and even as high as 200,000. I believe the last to be a great exaggeration; probably the mean of 150,000 is nearest the mark. Again, the extension of the city by squares leads to the closing up of places for which a greater space should be left. As an instance, the English burial ground was quite in the country when first made, but the city is fast encroaching upon it, and notice has lately been given to have it removed, against which a strong feeling exists, as the ground was pur- chased, and is the property of foreigners ; so the only plan to be adopted, if any alteration is made at all, will be to close the ground to future interments, the muni- cipality giving a piece of land a mile or two further out. This, again, has its inconveniences, as the streets leading to the present burial ground are almost unapproachable in bad weather, and beyond their limits it would be still more so. I visited the English burial ground, which is pretty well kept up, but the huge square family vaults are very unsightly, and will be rendered useless in case the burial ground is removed to another quarter. The great native burial place called Recoleta, adjoining a church of that name, is full of monuments of all kinds, some on a most elaborate and costly scale, little temples, in fact, where the dead are laid on shelves, visible 136 BRAZIL A^ THE RIVER PLATE. through glass doors. The cholera visitation compelled further addition to be made to the ground, which is in a very rough, disordered state, where medical students would have full scope if they were at a loss for subjects. Altogether the municipal regulations of the city arc very defective. An effort is now beinir made to obtain an adequate supply of water, and some works are in course of erection on the shore in the front of the Recoleta, on the plan of Mr. Coghlan, an engineer, who has been long resident at Buenos Ayres. The works will supply a number of fountains in the city, but no project is yet on foot to carry the water into private houses, which are supplied from their own patios, where there is generally a well or large tank under- ground which collects the rain water. A number of plans are before the Government for draining the city, one of the most urgent and imperative of wants, and without which it is impossible to maintain the public health. It is no wonder the cholera has made such ravages, and every one dreads a revival of it, or the appearance of some other scourge during the next hot season. These mysterious visitations arc warnings to large populations that they cannot violate sanitarv l.-nvs with impunity, and force lethargic municipal bodies into action. No city could be more easily drained and sewered than Buenos Ayres, but it requires a larire out- lay of mone} r , which the Government can ill a I lord at present ; and I believe the municipal and provincial taxes are already at their maximum. House rent is very high, and with the exception of meat, all the necessaries are dear. Luxuries are especially high priced. One is forcibly reminded of our old watchmen by the prevailing practice in South BUENOS AYRES SECOND NOTICE. 137 America of having what they call serenos, who go round calling the hour, some of them with most sepul- chral voices, and they are about as useful as our " Charlies " were, only they are armed with a sword, and apt, I believe, at times to resort to it very im- properly. In other respects the system of police appears to be pretty good, ai}.d considering the mixed and heterogenous population, with many bad characters about, there are less disturbances in Buenos Ay res than I expected, though, as a matter of course, many complaints are made as to the deficiency of police regulations. I was about the streets and suburbs of the city at various hours of the night and never met with the least molestation. The city is well lighted with gas, only it is stated that the present works are inadequate to the supply, and another company is about to be formed. The charge for gas is extravagant ; I am told about 24s. per thousand feet, and as a matter of course the shares are at a very high premium. One of the most thriving occupations in the city appears to be the hire of carriages and horses. There are numerous large establishments of this kind as well as for the building of carriages ; the latter as a rule are handsome and commodious. There are regular stands in the open squares, and cars are in attendance at the railway stations. For some time I could not make out what a great clatter of horses coming through the city about daylight meant ; it sounded like a troop of cavalry, but I afterwards found it was the hired horses going to water at the river ; indeed, horses are almost amphibious here in consequence of doing so much work in the river carts, and one day I saw an omnibus brougt down on the shore to be washed and cleaned, rather a novel performance. 138 BRAZIL AND THE EIVEB PLATE. River storms are not of common occurrence, but they occasionally take place with great violence. It had 1 > hot and oppressive before, but it came on to blow heavily on Sunday night, and next morning the river had ri some 12 feet, the waves dashing on the beach in u most alarming manner, and the whole of the low ground between the city and the Boca was under water, with part of the Boca Railway washed away, as well a> a por- tion of the Northern line, interrupting, of course, the traffic on both. It was a curious sight to set- the A\ ; duelling through the willow trees which are pla:. along the shore, and for a time suspendin;_r washing operations. Many houses on the low ground were in- vaded, and the wooden ones built along the IWa, on piles, looked like great bathing machine*. The iron seats placed on the shore beneath the willows v knocked over and covered with seaweed. The storm lasted two or three days, during which no eomniui. tion could be had with vessels either in the inner or outer roads, and steamers were compelled to run for the Tigre to land their passengers; also lighters with cargo the whole forming a scene of much exeitt-n. and putting an entire stop to business. It delayed the departure of our steamer several days. After the g subsided we had some fine sunny days, and the river fell as rapidly as it had risen. This gale was not what is termed a pampero, being from the south-east, on the shore. A pampero frequently follows after it from the south-west, or off the shore, causing the river to fall again. The changes of climate here are sudden and said to be unhealthy. During the two months I was in the river until the occurrence of the gale nothing could l>u more delicious than the weather cool, with bright sun- ' O shine and any amount of exercise agreeable. The BUENOS AYBES SECOND NOTICE. 139 nights were occasionally frosty, with ice in the mornings in some places. Dust storms are terrible things during the summer, but happily are rare, and generally the forerunners of a pampero, accompanied by heavy rain, which refreshes the thirsty soil. Droughts are serious afflictions to the sheep and cattle, which often perish from their effects. Water is the great desideratum for the campo, and without it the prospects of the estanciero are blighted. As I have said before, the Banda Oriental is less subject to drought, being more undulated and better watered, but the pampas, or plains of Buenos Ay res, grow a more nutritive grass and rear finer sheep and cattle. During my stay at Buenos Ayres the Provincial Chambers met, as well as the National Chambers, and I attended a sitting of the latter, where an unusual excitement prevailed owing to a motion put on the books as to the retirement of President Mitre from office, and whether or not this would put an end to the alliance entered into for carrying on the war with Para- guay. The building is small, exactly like a theatre minus the stage, and was crowded to excess by strangers, the pit, or lower part only, being used for the business of the Senate. There was so much demonstration from the galleries as to promise a stormy meeting, but when the speeches began the speakers were patiently listened to, with occasional cheers by their respective suppor- ters, at which the President rang his bell. Dr t Quin- tana and others maintained that their views were correct, and that the retirement of President Mitre would put an end to the alliance. The Government, represented by Senor Elizalde, Minister for Foreign Affairs, maintained the contrary, and defended his colleagues with considerable acumen and ability, the 140 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. result being that nothing was got by the motion and things remained in statu quo. The custom is for mem- bers to speak sitting upon their benches, which greatly detracts from their oratory, and must be very incon- venient, as you can only hear a voice, and are puzzled sometimes to know where it comes from. On another occasion, when the Senate was in committee with expla- nations going on, half-a-dozen members would be addressing or interrogating the Minister at the sauu 1 time, which appeared very absurd, us wrll M* unfair, it being impossible to reply to more than one at a time, or at all events to collect the observations of half-a-dozen members speaking hi the same breath. Senor Elizalde, however, defended his position with much coolness and ability, and was assisted by his colleague, Dr. Co Minister for Education, &c. The audience became so troublesome on another occasion that the Senators decided to meet with closed doors, having only repor- ters present, rather a trial to democratic forlx-arance, but it did not seem to produce any sensation out of doors. As in our own Parliament, a great loss of time is caused by the professional speech makers, and the business of legislation retarded accordingly, as they only sit in the day in these countries. Whether or not such :ui arrangement would suit in St. Stephen's is another matter. Outside, and apart from public sittings, no doubt a deal of intrigue and jobbery takes place in South American assemblies, as in other countries, but I think on the whole their legislation is fair and con- ducted with moderation. There is not the same value in " loaves and fishes " to operate with, nor the same amount of honour and reward to look forward to as in England ; besides, the members of Government out here are very poorly paid, so they are obliged to look to tin ir BUENOS AYRES SECOND NOTICE. 141 professions, mostly as lawyers, unless they happen to possess private fortunes. Republicanism is not endowed with more gratitude than Royalty, and deserving men who have faithfully and zealously served their country are too often left in the " cold shade," and forgotten in both cases. The Provincial Assembly meet in another part of the city, where all the provincial business is carried on. It was formerly the town residence and head-quarters of Rozas, from which many a bloody mandate has been issued. The municipality occupy large premises in the Plaza, attached to the old Spanish cabildo, or prison, on which the date of 1722 is still to be seen. PROGRESS OF STEAM NAVIGATION OX LA PLATA. - IF there is one subject more than another on which I am entitled to express an opinion it is that of steam navigation on the great South American rivers, and especially as regards the fluvial waters of the La Plata. In my book, published hi 1854, pages 314 to 316, occur the following remarks : These are sentiments, however, which the reader may naturally think are not very pertinent to a purpose like the present, and not exactly in keeping with an occasion expressly connected with tin- commercial opening-np of those streams by the instrumentality of English enterprise, in a form so indicative of progress as steam. So, too, thought the writer after a moment's rumination of the " cud of sweet and bitter fancy;" for he reflected that these magnificent regions, first discovered by Cabot English, born and bred, though of Venetian parentage had stagnated, not nnder the rule of ; " good olde and famuse man," but nnder the rule of those in whoso service he had found ont a river which mi^ht, indeed, have pv. worthy of the name the avaricious Spaniards had bestowed upon it La Plata, the River of Silver had they been imbued with a jiariii-lc of the spirit which has converted " icy Labrador," the first territory discovered by the same glorious adventurer, into a comparatively industrial paradise. I augured, I hope with no unjustifiable audjn that now the descendants of Cabot and of his companions had been brought into direct relationship with the people of the Parana, some- thing would bo done to render that " Mississippi of the South " not altogether unworthy of some slight social and political comparison STEAM NAVIGATION ON LA PLATA. 143 with the Northern " Father of Waters " before many generations should roll by ; and I deemed it a not altogether impossible contin- gency that the younger members of our crew might live to cast anchor in certain riverine ports hereabouts, amid a forest of masts and funnels belonging to all the maritime states in the world, not one of which countries but may find produce of some kind or other profitably suitable to its markets on these fertile shores. I will leave it to my readers, acquainted with what is going on at the present time, to say whether my views were too sanguine. It may be said that the war in Paraguay has hastened the development of steam navi- gation up the rivers, which is true enough, but at the same time I am satisfied that without this war there would have been steady progress, particularly had the policy of the despotic ruler of Paraguay been in a pacific direction, encouraging, instead of throwing every difficulty in the way of free transit to the country lying beyond Paraguay, and into the interior of Matto Grosso. The exigences of a Avar of the nature carried on for the last three years, where the troops, amumnition, and supplies of all kinds had to be sent forward by steam, would naturally create active employment for steamers, and it has tended to familiarise navigators with every nook and corner, sand bank, or other impediment that may have existed unknown to any of them. The war at an end, steamers will be organised to run to the different towns and stations, in response to the requirements of traffic, as well as to facilitate postal communications, so much needed in those countries ; and Rosario, being the terminus of the great Central Railway, must of necessity become the rendez- vous of all river steamers ascending the Parana, the Uru- guay having already a pretty good organisation in this respect. In a country so widespread, and so dependent on internal communication by rivers, steam is now a 144 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. primary necessity, and therefore it may fairly be assumed that this will be one of the first objects of the Government, as well as of the Central A rgcntine 1 1 nil way Company; the latter to facilitate traffic to and from their line, and to regulate the departure of their trams, a matter of much moment to travellers. It inn}' in truth be said that steam navigation on tlu B of La Plata and its affluents is only in its infancy, dating from the commencement of the Paraguayan war. One of the great requirements of civilised life is rapid inter- course, not only for persons, but for correspondence, and the task of arranging the latter is one that mu.-t ! strongly pressed on the Government by commercial bodies, who are so much interested in the question. Brazil sets an example in this respect that other Govern- ments ought to follow. In process of time telegraphic wires will doubtless be added to steam facilities, and probably be carried across the Andes to join the AYest Coast line to Panama, in connection with the great Atlantic cable to England. AY hen I remember the sensation created by the little "Argentina," and her trip to Rosario in 1853, I inu^t say the progress of events has indeed been rapid. To this day the "Argentina" is remembered at Buenos Ayres and Monte Video, and her subsequent loss v regarded as a serious calamity. I subjoin in the Appendix some particulars showing the increase of steam tonnage in these waters, which will be interesting to those who contemplate visiting the regions of the La Plata. In connection with the up-river steam traffic, the Northern Railway to the Tigre is a great facility, as passengers can walk on board the steamers without en- countering the often disagreeable boating at Buenos NAVIGATION ON LA PLATA. 145 Ayres, and the passage through what is called the Capitan is very pleasant, but if the railway was extended a few hundred yards further, to the bank of the River Lujan, it would be far more convenient, as large sized steamers would then resort there, as also vessels with cargo for Buenos Ayres to be sent on by rail. The Tigre is so small and so shallow that a few steamers block it up, but the Lujan is wide and deep, and it might be made a valuable adjunct to the port of Buenos Ayres, at present suffering so much for want of accom- modation. In my general report on the railways this subject will be again alluded to. RAILWAYS IN THE RIVER PLATE. THERE are two classes of railways in the Argentine Confederation, inaugurated by Provincial and the National Governments respectively. I will begin with the Province of Buenos Ayres, as the railroad systnn has there acquired the greatest development. The first line established was the Western, which has now notched the town of Chivilcoy, a distance of 100 miles from the city, and it is proposed to effect a further extension to the frontier fort of Melincue. I need not repeat here the details already given in reference to this rnh rp; Next in importance comes the Great Southern Kail- way, seventy-one miles in length, which was made by an English Company, under a Government guarantee of 7 per cent, on 700,000, but the capital actually raised was 750,000, the contractors taking 50,000 in unguaranteed stock on certain conditions as to their participation in dividend. The expenditure has been further increased to nearly 800,000, owing to addi- tional disbursements for goods stations and for increased rolling stock. The line was opened throughout in Dec. 1865, and the traffic has gone on steadily augmenting, with improved receipts, the result of the first year showing a net profit of nearly three per cent. ; the second year a fraction over five per cent, j and the present RAILWAYS IN THE RIVER PLATE. 147 year promises fair to reach the seven per cent, guaran- teed by the Government, when it will be self-sustaining and free of all the drawbacks necessarily incidental to a condition of dependence on State aid. This enterprise has a prosperous future before it. The great question which remains to be decided has relation to an extension of the line further south, or in a south-westerly direc- tion, so as to intercept the large amount of traffic which still comes forward by the ordinary bullock carts. One disadvantage of the Southern Railway consists in its chief station at the Plaza Constitucion being so far from the central points of the city, which are only partially reached by a tramway, but this ought to be extended, and even then it will be difficult to meet the require- ments of passenger traffic. The following particulars are taken from a private letter sent home after a very pleasant trip over the line, accompanied by the Local Committee and Manager : My first step after arrival here was to visit all the Railway Stations, as they are generally a pretty good index of what is behind them, and I found the Great Southern far in advance of all the others as regards provision for the traffic it has to carry on. The money which has been spent in shed accommodation was only an absolute necessity, and is of that practical character which quite meets the case. The single-roofed shed into which the wool is dis- charged from the railway trucks on one side, and taken out from the other, is most convenient, and to look at the sheds, which are divided into compartments, and all numbered, you might fancy yourself at one of the warehouses of the London Docks, with which you are familiar. The booking offices, refreshment rooms, &c., occupy the centre of the station, with the platform in front for passengers ; the warehouses occupying the two wings. There is also a goods receiving shed, with stabling for horses used on the tramway. The only thing I see in the distance is that more station room will be required. Leaving the station by a double line of rails, you soon cross the handsome bridge over the Riachuelo and arrive at Barracas station, situated near the centre of a large popxilation, and connected with 148 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. the Boca, where a large portion of the business of the port of Bnenos Ayres is carried on, the place being 1 studded with salad eros and largo warehouses, where the produce of the country is deposited, a great drawback being the abominable stench arising from dead carcn and offal strewed about, and nests of piggeries which are allowed to locate spite of all municipal regulations to the contrary. After leaving Barracas the line strikes at once into the campo, or open country, the first ten or fifteen miles being studded with quintas or farms, and establishments of one kind or other, when you re u-h tho great plains covered with sheep, cattle, and horses, and at this timo the pastures look green and healthy, though at the same timo they could do with rain. The lino is nearly a dead level with few eurvrs, the stations well bnilt and commodious, and of a very durable nature, easily added to if required; in fact, I do not see how a railway in th:s country could be better adapted for its work ; the rails, permanent as well as the rolling stock, all appear to be in good order. Although the line may be said to traverse a sea of land, and does not pass i to any town of importance until it reaches Chascomus, there v. many more estancias (farms) in the distance than I expected to find. We saw Air. Glew and Mr. Donsellear (after whom two stations are called) in /./-..y,/-/-/ persona. The Somborambon bridge, crossing a river of that name, is a fine work, and at the Chascomus station are evident signs of considerable traffic, with machinery for hoisting the bullock carts on to the railway trucks after their wheels taken off, and the cart with its contents (wheels included,) brought into Bnenos Ayres. Chascomus itself is a large straggling town, situated close to a picturesque lake, on the banks of which Air. Craw- ford (agent for Messrs. Peto and Bctts during the construction of the line) built himself a large comfortable house, now converted into an hotel, at which we enjoyed a very good dinner. During the n of Rozas Chascomus was a military station, and many people from the neighbouring districts came to spend some months of the year at the town, but its glory in this way has departed, and it docs not look like a very go-a-head place at present. On the whole I returned much impressed with the soundness of the undertaking and tlie favourable prospect before it. ^ The Northern Railway, originally called the San Fernando, has been very unfortunate from its birlli. arising in a great measure from its being made on a strip of land adjoining the river, where it was subject KAIL WAYS IN THE KIVER PLATE. 149 to inundations in consequence of sea storms. Had it been carried over the bank, within a few hundred yards to the left, it would have been entirely out of the reach of such casualties, an instance of which occurred a few days before I left Buenos Ayres, when a portion of the earthworks was again washed away. Soon after my arrival out I made a trip over the line, accompanied by Mr. Crabtree, the new manager, Mr. Ford, locomotive superintendent and engineer, Mr. Santa Maria, consult- ing local director, and Mr. Horrocks, the traffic manager. The station at the Retiro is a plain, modest building, which answers the purpose well enough, though rather open and exposed. The locomotives and carriages are in limited number, but sufficient apparently for existing wants, as the large American carriages hold many pas- sengers. A tramway from the most central point in the city, passing along the beach, carries the passengers to and from the station in a much more convenient manner than to any of the other railways, and there can be little doubt that if the line could be rendered safe from the encroachments of the river on the occasion of great storms, fortunately "few and far between," it would be a very prosperous enterprise, as it affords accommodation for the most populous suburb of the city. It also touches a branch of the river where a large por- tion of the steam traffic is likely to be concentrated. I found the rails in tolerable order, and altogether more life in the concern than I had expected, considering the drawbacks, financial and otherwise, with which it has had to contend. The first station is Palermo, the old paradise of Rozas, but which is now allowed to go to ruin and decay, the beach from the Retiro to Palermo being almost entirely monopolised by what has been termed " an army of washerwomen." The next station is 150 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. Belgrano, where Mr. Matti, the great steamboat agent, has a most fantastic quinta, glittering in green and yellow colours, but of what style of architecture it would be difficult to determine; nevertheless it is a pretty place, and evidently no expense is spared to keep it in order. It is, however, too close to the railway. Directly opposite is the hotel of Mr. Watson, where I can testify to a first rate dinner being provided for those who want a little relief from the closeness and monotony of the city. After Belgrano comes San Isidro, near which are also many handsome quintas. There are two or three other stations before arriving at San Fernando, about which there is a large, scattered population. Here a new branch is being made to the Parana, by a small company of which Mr. Hopkins is the head; tin- intention being to build a new wharf and some ware- houses there ; but I question whether the enterprise will ever arrive at maturity, as the most natural point for the construction of such works is undoubtedly the mouth of the Rio Tigre, on the Lujari River, as I h previously observed. At the latter place we found some dozen steamers, chiefly of large size, lyinir moored alongside the banks where there is deep water. At the Tigre station is a good restaurant, kept by a Frenchman, who provided us with a comfortable breakfast, and after two or three hours spent in a boat looking about the river, and rambling over the neighbourhood, we returned to Buenos Ayres much pleased with our trip. The Boca Railway is a small line, made to connect the city with the important districts of the Boca and Barracas. It was laid on the beach, and is not unfrc- quently partially washed away by the river storms. The Boca is quite a little port on the banks of the Ria- chuelo, where lighters discharge and load, and where RAILWAYS IN THE RIVER PLATE. 151 small craft are also built. Amongst other establish- ments there is that of the Messrs. Casares, the largest lightermen in the place, which is at all times very busy and generally crowded. A branch of the railway goes on towards Barracas, where an old wooden bridge crosses the stream, rendered exceedingly filthy by the refuse of the saladeros finding its way into the water. The effluvia arising from this cause are of a very offen- sive nature. Attempts, however, are being made to cleanse and deepen this valuable river, but the slow pace at which improvements are carried on here will probably postpone the event to a future generation. Most of the houses about the Boca are of wood, and are built on piles to avoid danger from floods, but there are also many large stone edifices in which produce is stored. A few days before I left a river storm laid nearly the whole locality under water, destroying a portion of the railway, and of course stopping the traffic. The re- placing of the rails is not, I understand, a very formid- able undertaking. The whole line, which is only three or four miles in length, including the branch to Barracas, ought to have been built on piles or led through an iron viaduct, so as to be out of the reach of the floods; and under existing circumstances, not to speak of the cost of repairing the permanent way, the traffic is interrupted at the very time it would be of the greatest utility. The original plan, and that for which the concession was obtained, was to connect the Boca and Barracas with the city, running a branch to Ensenada, where it was proposed to form a new port ; but this part of the scheme is still in embryo. Where the line is really of utility and would cariy a large traffic is from the Custom-house to the Boca, and across the bridge higher up to Barracas, where the Government are mak- 152 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. ing a large swing iron bridge to replace the old dilapi- dated wooden one now in use. An iron viaduct is about being laid to connect the Boca Railway with the Custom-house. If properly constructed the Boca Rail- way would command the whole traffic of this district, and direct communication might be established with the Northern and Southern Railways ; but a large additional capital is required before this scheme can be roali>i-l. The bulk of the Boca traffic is carried on by carts, under great disadvantages and at a heavy expense; and it is a painful sight to see the poor horses straggling through the mud, or toiling under the lash up the steep, mi ably paved streets which connect the beach with the warehouses and depots at the southern end of the city. In fact everything in the way of locomotion is carried on under great difficulties, and the detention of flip- ping in the outer roads is a serious matter. When I!K- river is low, the beach is covered with carts galloping backwards and forwards, bringing cargo from the lighters or taking produce to them the horses up to their girths in water and sometimes swimming. Many of the carts have a hollow bottom made water tight to prevent damage to the goods ; and at times, when there is not water for boats to the mole, passengers have >iill to embark or disembark in carts, as was the case when I last visited Buenos Ayres. Both this mole and that to the Custom-house, for which the latter is exclusively used, have been built since that time; but to show the great want of accommodation which still exists to carry on the trade of the port, there are upwards of 300 custom-house depots in different parts of the city besides the Custom-house itself, and at the north end a large market is being converted into a depot; in fact the trade of the port has entirely outgrown the facilities for EAILWAYS IN THE E1VER PLATE. 153 its reception, the whole, as at Monte Video, being in a great state of confusion. On the subject of railways generally in the Argentine Confederation there cannot be a second opinion that it is through their instrumentality the future development of the country must be looked for; and it is to the credit of General Mitre that so much has been done during his presidency, especially the great work of the Central Argentine Railway, which more than any other measure must tend to link together the provinces of the Confederation and strengthen their union. So soon as the line is open to Cordova the communication with the western provinces will be speedy, and produce \vill find its way to that city as a central point, thence to be brought down to Rosario, Buenos Ay res, or Monte Video, comparatively at great saving of time and ex- pense. At present the cost of transit absorbs a large part of the total value, the effect of which has been to discourage any notable increase of production beyond the necessities of local consumption. The railway will in addition afford a more easy mode of locomotion, and will greatly promote intercourse, while emigrants can be at once conveyed to distant places where their services are required. On every ground, therefore, the promo- tion and extension of railways is the first duty of Presi- dent Mitre's successor, and it is to be hoped Senor Sarmiento will not be remiss in this respect. At all events, the way has been paved and a good example set. The only other railway to notice, and which I had not an opportunity of seeing, is a small one from Puerto Raiz, on the Parana, to Galaguay, a distance of about six miles, which was constructed by Mr. Coghlan for a sum of 20,000, or about 3,380 per mile. I believe it is very useful and returns a fair percentage on the outlay, EMIGRATION TO BBA/IL. BOTH the Government and the people of Bra/il iV-i-1 tin- necessity and the value of promoting immigration to the fullest extent. Experiments have been tried, and small colonies of Europeans founded in some of the southern provinces, all of which have been more or less suc- cessful. In my account of the Province of San Paulo I have alluded to the settlement of Germans on the coffee plantations of Senhor Vergueiro, and to the desire of other large owners of property to follow his example. I also instanced the case of a little colony of Germans at Juiz de Fora, in the Province of Rio de Janeiro, which I had an opportunity of seeing, and there are ides in the same province other colonies on a larger scale. Various efforts have been made by individuals in other parts of the Empire to introduce foreign labour. Slave labour is of course an impediment to the more general influx of Europeans, but where lands are set apart and arrangements made for the location of colo- nists there is no reason why the latter should not succeed, and form the nucleus of a large future popula- tion. The assistance and pecuniary co-operation of Government is of course required to effect any decided progress in this direction; and considering that every EMIGRATION TO BRAZIL. 155 labourer brought into the country contributes to the national revenue, as well as to national production, the primary expense of passage money is soon repaid. Many of the high table-lands of Brazil are admirably adapted to agricultural purposes, the climate, owing to elevation, being also favourable to European settlement. Enormous tracts of such land are at the disposal of the Executive, but it needs some outlay in order to pre- pare the way for emigrants, as they cannot be expected to pioneer as in the case of the United States, on account of their ignorance of the language and the difficulty of access from the port of debarcation. The time is fast approaching when slavery must cease to exist in Brazil ; and it behoves the Government to anticipate this event by the introduction of free labour. It is morally certain that the negroes, even if they settle down under their new condition, will not labour so constantly as when in a state of servitude. The Government ought, therefore, I repeat, to adapt itself to the exigences of its position, and encourage by every means the accession of European agricultural labourers of a suitable class. Large landowners, whose estates are now only partially worked, might devote a portion of them for new comers, and, in connection with the Central and Provincial Governments, attain the desired end. Financial difficulties, caused by the long Avar with Paraguay, may be pleaded as an excuse for neglect- ing this great question, but the very drain that has thus taken place of men and money only renders the case more pressing. I believe the Emperor entertains the most enlightened and practical views, both as regards doing away with slave labour and replacing it by the introduction of emigrants ; but the trammels of a war expenditure, and the degree of attention the struggle 156 BRAZIL AND THE KIVER PLATE. demands on the part of the Ministers, prevent their in- aucen the chief promoters of emigration, from exercising, as they do, full control over their own revenues and over public lands ; but in I5rax.il the im- petus mu>t first come from the action of the (Ynirul Government, which receives and di>trihutes the provin- cial ivvrnues after payment of provincial expenditure. In tlu i southern provinces of Brazil the cultivation of coffee and cotton offers the greatest scope for European labour, and the Province of San Paulo alone i* capable of wonderful development as respects the growth of thi-'c two important articles if only proper means are adopted to provide augmented manual po\\. The northern provinr<-s present greater difficulties, from the nature of the climate, which is more adapted to a people like the Chinese than to Europeans. There is, however, an objection to this industrious race in consequence of their desire to return home when they have accumulated a little money. A further introduc- tion of the African race as free labourers would be very advantageous. Though this might be a great gain to the negroes themselves, whose lives in their own country are at the mercy of such wretches as the sable King of Dahomy, philanthropists object to the removal of Africans from their native soil on any grounds, entirely ignoring the miserable existence they lead there and the barbarities to which they are subjected. But let slavery be once abolished in Brazil, and there could be no objection that I can see to their settlement in those provinces where their labour would be most useful, say from the River Amazon down to the Province EMIGRATION TO BRAZIL 157 of Bahia. This, however, is only a casual remark, and does not come within the scope of my present inquiry, namely, as to the best mode of introducing European labour into Brazil. As I have already pointed out to the Government, the passage money of emigrants must be paid, or advanced, the selection of them must be care- fully attended to, and on reaching Brazil they should be sent on immediately to their ultimate destination, where suitable accommodation should also be provided against their arrival. Every necessary arrangement can easily be made if the Government and landed proprie- tors would take some trouble and show their practical earnestness in the matter. There is an Emigrants' Home, or temporary abode in Rio de Janeiro, where proper attention is paid to them, and an officer (Dr. Galvao) is especially appointed by Government to look after this department. I quite intended to have visited this establishment, but was unable to do so. I had, however, a conversation with Dr. Galvao on the subject of emigration generally. EMIGRATION TO THE RIVER PLATE. No country in South America is more favourably placed, or presents a greater field for European labour than the River Plate, notwithstanding tin- drawbacks which have to some extent retarded its progress and injured its character. It has an advantage over Ilraxil in tin- absence of slavery, and is of a milder climate, though it is very hot during the summer months, as I experienced when at Monte Video, in January last, at which time the cholera was at its height. A friend, who has resided in Buenos Ayres for two or three years, chiefly out in the campo, has thus recorded his experience of the average temperature : 20 Days very cold . . . 4-j to 55 deg. Fall. 182 moderate . . . 55 to 75 60 warm . . . . 75 to 88 45 hot . . . . 80 to 85 58 intensely hot . . . 85 to 105 365 Days. The thermometer, in exposed places, reaches 110 Fah. in the shade, but such cases are very exceptional. He also adds as follows some very useful remarks as to clothing : Flannel shirts are best ; woollen drawers should also be used EMIGRATION TO THE RIVER PLATE. 159 For working, clothes of such colour as will not show the dust are best. The thickness of the clothes for summer wearing may be very much the same as would suit in England during hot summer weather; they should be waterproofed before being made up. Indiarubber coats, although very useful in winter, are ruined in hot weather, and stick together and tear, so as to be useless. Good English boots are not to be had, and are therefore very useful. As to food he savs : j Be careful about eating and drinking, especially when newly landed, and avoid as much as possible unnecessary exposure to the sun. Fruit should not be taken in quantites at first. Peaches are said to be the best and most wholesome. I may add from my own experience that where it is intended to frequent the campo a pair of good riding boots are very necessary, and a rough pea jacket would be a very good companion in winter. In town cloth cloaks are much worn, and in the campo chiefly ponchos. The boundless tracts of open country are in a great measure occupied by sheep and cattle, and do not require much of the labour of man ; but sheep farming having been carried to a large extent, the price of wool has much depreciated, and sheep can be bought very cheap. In consequence, agriculture is now much more attended to and will require labour. Good wheat can be grown in most of the Argentine Provinces, and now forms a staple commodity, which may be increased to almost any extent where railways afford the means of easy transport, and so soon as there are sufficient 160 BKAZIL AND THE K1VER II ATE. labourers to cultivate the soil. Indeed, there is no reason why wheat, as well as Indian corn, should not be largely exported, and I believe this will be the case in a verv few years. Wheat crops are liable to injury from drought, but the price obtained for the product is a very remunerative one, and it is not subject to losses by depreciation as frequently occurs with sheep and cattle. Foreign settlers in distant provinces have of late been much damaged by Indian raids, to prevent which the Government has done very little, owing to the drain of soldiers for the war and to internal discord, but i plague is merely a temporary one, and nothing would tend more to remove the evil than a large iiu-n-a.-e of population, of which the country stands greatly in need. Emigration, at present, goes on to a limit rd i xtent, but chiefly of the class suitable for cities and towns, and not for an agricultural or country life. Several colonies, founded under arrangements with the Provincial Governments of Santa IV and Entre Rios, are prosper- ing, and those in the fine Province of Cordova will al><> do well when the National Government is able to repel Indian inroads and protect the settlers. Many youni: Englishmen have settled in Cordova during the la.st four years, with more or less capital, and have bought land, particularly near the line of the Central Argentine Railway, naturally looking to Government for protec- tion, which unhappily has not been effectively extended. In many cases their stock has been carried off by the savages, and their prospects seriously injured. They are now turning their attention to agriculture, and 1 have every reason to think they will be successful. Numbers of young men have come out to the Plaet EMIGRATION TO THE RIVER PLATE. 161 with little or no resources, expecting to find employ- ment on sheep farms, and failing this, have fallen into bad habits, often wandering about the country and undergoing great hardships and misery. To do any good in such a country steadiness of character is the most essential quality, nor is it at all safe to trust to the chapter of accidents. It is only by well organised arrangements, and great perseverance, that new comers can expect to overcome the difficulties attending their settlement in a [new country, the very extent of which is a disadvantage until such time as the influx of popu- lation and the formation of communities do away with these inconveniences. The Chilian Government have lately made a contract with a Hamburg house for sending to the port of Lota Swiss, Tyrolese, and German emigrants, on a principle that may be adopted with benefit in relation to the River Plate. The emigrants must be provided with good characters, vised by the Chilian Consul at Ham- burg, and on their arrival at Lota they are to be sent on to Arauco by the Government, and placed in posses- sion of their land, according to the terms of the Chilian law lately published. The colonists are to be furnished with between-deck passages, and they will be allowed one ton of measurement for every adult, and half a ton for each person under 12 years, and they are to be treated on board in conformity with the Hanover Pas- senger Act. The Government also agree to pay 40 dollars (8) for the passage of each adult, and 20 dollars for each child under 12 years of age. The contract is to last for four years, and if the scheme should meet with favour in Germany, the Government agree to contract for 100 families for the first year, 150 for the second, 200 for the third, and 300 for the fourth 162 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. year, with liberty to the contractors to exceed these numbers to the extent of 25 per cent. It appears to me questionable whether the contractors can afford to take emigrants that distance for 8 passage money, but probably the nature of the land concession is an induce- ment to families possessing some means to augment this sum, in which case it becomes a scheme of assists I passages on terms arranged between the emigrants and contractors. It is, however, a step in the right direction, which other Governments will do well to follow. At Monte Video there is an Emigrant Office under the management of a respectable committee, AV!: every information is afforded as to employment, but there is no Home or Asylum. At Buenos Ayrcs then- is a miserable building on the ground floor, called Asylum, where emigrants are allowed to remain loin- days. It seems to have been formerly a large stable, and is indeed more fit for horses than human beings. It wants both ventilation and cleanliness, the latter at all events easy to provide, but, considering the \ importance of emigration to the country, a more appro- priate place might be maintained at very moderate cost. It is not necessary, nor desirable, that emigrants should on landing find themselves so comfortable as to care little about removing, but there is a medium between this and the dirty place open to them at present. Of course the sooner the emigrants are sent off to the locality where their labour is required the better. If ever there was a time when sheep fanning ought to offer advantages to new comers it is the present, when the value of sheep has fallen so low that land may be stocked for a very small sum as contrasted with former years, and land itself can be bought or rented at con- EMIGRATION TO THE RIVER PLATE. siderably less than formerly. This has inflicted great loss upon the older residents; indeed the result has been sometimes so disastrous that sheep farmers here and there are giving it up altogether, and others putting as much of their land as possible under tillage. Every- thing is therefore in favor of new settlers who may choose to try their fortunes in this particular line, only they must make up their minds to rough it for a few years, and be content with a life in the campo. The consumption of an article like wool can never be subject to any lengthened depression, and with railway facilities there will be increased means for utilising the carcasses of sheep, by boiling down, or otherwise dis- posing of them. On the other hand, in the ordinary course of things, more land will be put under cultivation, and agriculture as well as sheep farming is destined to play an important part in the commercial history of the River Plate. As I have already remarked, the want of population is the great drawback under which this country now suffers, and is an impediment to progress in every way. This can only be remedied by emigration receiving the direct aid as well as the encouragement of Government. It is not sufficient that a few stray people find their way up the country, but centres of population and labour should be formed in the most productive parts of every province, which would lead to agricultural progress, and eventually to the formation of new towns and cities. The mere extension of existing cities will never bring solid wealth to the Argentine Confederation, nor develop political stability. RAILWAYS IN BRAZIL. UNFORTUNATELY the promoters of railway enterprises in Brazil, entered into with British capital, have looked more to the guaranteed interest offered by the Govern- ment upon the money to be expended than to legitimate sources of traffic, out of which a dividend mi^ht be earned. All the Brazilian I Jail ways, with the exception of the little Maun, at Rio de Janeiro, and to which re- ference is made in my former book, have been created since 1853, the first in order and time being the Recife, or Pernambuco, about which there has been so much controversy between the Company and the Government. Before submitting any comments of my own, I will quote the following from the report lately issued by the Minister of Public Works, Senhor Dantas, upon this and the other lines. The document is official, and therefore worthy of reliance : The annexed gives the length, receipt.", and expenses of the mil- ways in 1807. The receipts and expenses of the S. Paulo Railway include only nine and a half months : Name. D. Pedro II . S. Paulo Kilos. 197.4 139.0 Receipts. 2,523:7968781 1,236:423 702 Expenses. 1,117:0:3 IS'.-'.'J 305:140 280 Pernambuco . 124.9 599:331 445 414:772 537 Bahia . 123.5 iv.: 5:323 292 .M7:*7<) 7<;o Cantagallo Mau;i . 49.1 17.5 709:222 555 297:595 347 365:830 300 172:297 628 Total . 651.6 5,599:693 122 2,892:955 503 RAILWAYS IN BEAZIL. 165 These figures leave a balance of 2,706:737$610 over the cost of working. D. PEDRO II. RAILWAY. With the Macacos branch the length of this railway is 203 kilo- metres, 56.6 kilometres having been added during last year in its prolongations towards the station of Entre Rios. Failing to come to an agreement with the Companhia Mineira for the extension to Porto Novo da Cunha, an offer was made by the Companhia Uniao e Industria to construct a cart road to that point, the final offer of this Company being to make it gratuitously if certain favours were conceded to it. However, its offers were declined, as a cart road was judged incompatible with the requirements of the railway. Under these circumstances, as the state of the finances did not permit the contracting for the extension, orders were issued to give it a com- mencement by administration ; and at the present time the works of the first miles are tolerably advanced. A proposition to construct and work the fourth section has been received from capitalists and planters of the district it would serve, and it is now awaiting solution. The competition between the railway and the Uniao e Industria road being prejudicial to both, the directory of this road has proposed bases for a compromise as under : The Uniao e Industria road com- pany to give up all its traffic between its station of Posse and Eio, receiving as compensation certain advantages, the principal one being the duration of its contract for twelve years, and the receipt of 120 rs. on every arroba transported on the railway between Entre Rios and Rio, which, it is estimated, would give the company 324:000$ annually, and transfer traffic of 2,700,000 arrobas, or 1,000:0008 annually, to the railway. In order to facilitate this transaction the company proposes to lease the railway for twelve years and pay a dividend of four per cent, to the Government. It also proposes to make any extension determined on, that to Porto Novo to be finished in five years, the Government to furnish the money, and the company to receive no compensation for its trouble except what would arise from the 120 reis the arroba upon the traffic over the line from Entre Rios and Rio. On the completion of the Porto Novo branch, the company would receive 2,000:000$ out of the profits over the four per cent, dividend as indemnity for any loss, rights or advantages secured to it by the contract of October 29, 1864, and it would then commence the construction of the railway through the valley of the Parahybano towards the Serra 166 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. of Mantiqueira, using for this purpose four-fifths of the net revenue received from the railway, one-fifth remaining for the company, this continuing until the end of the twelve years, and the company binding itself to make, at its own cost, the branch from Juiz de Fora to the railway station of Uba. If, however, the Government judge it better to construct a system of macadamised cart roads, centering nt Entre Rios, the company mil then pay six per cent, on the railway, and will construct within four years, twenty leagues of road to Porto Novo da Cunha, and on to Barra do Pomba, and will, within six- years, macadamise the Serraria road as far as ^1 ! and Jundiahy Railway is, therefore, one of those amongst us which promise best ; and perhaps it may bo considered the first indus- trial undertaking of the kind, if the serra service, by means of inclines, does not exact a constant outlay which willdiminish the revenue. During the past year the trains of the road transported 170,081 passengers, namely : 1st Class 19,078 2nd 2G,033i 3rd 130,952 Season tickets . . 17 Total 17r,,081 The plan of Engineer P. Fox for the extension of the line to Cam pinas having received the prcfennee over the other Ir. itul to the ministry in my charge, the President of the province under- took to promote a company of planters and capitalists to carry this important benefit into effect. The company having the ri<_ r ht of preference to the extension of the railway, I instructed our MhT in London to obtain an explicit declaration from the directory renun- ciatory of its right, in order that there might be no future doubts or reclamations. The directors replied that the company expressly desisted from the right, and, therefore, the association could proceed with its measures for the realisation of its object. In the opinion of Engineer E. Viriato de Medeiros the amount of capital expended up to the 30th of July, 1866, amounted to 2,548,434, but for payment of interest due it was estimated hypothetically at 2,650,000. The provincial as?embly not having empowered the President to pay the interest of two per cent, upon the guaranteed capital, to which the province had bound itself, it was necessary for the national treasury to take upon itself the satisfaction of the provincial proi It is therefore requisite that the provincial assembly provide in the estimate of this year for relieving the public treasury from the charge upon its already too burdened coffers. It will be seen from these reports that all the guar- anteed railways are exposed to difficulties arising out of RAILWAYS IN BKAZIL. 171 the special character of the relations existing between the various companies and the Government, and that Senhor Sobragy, the talented manager of the Dorn Pedro Segundo Railway, has been sent to England to try to come to terms with the companies. In my opinion, however, nothing short of the Government taking over the railways, giving in exchange a guaranteed stock, can ever meet the requirements of the case, or bring these concerns out of their present unfavourable position. It would be useless to recapitulate here the causes of their failure. Certainly no fault can be laid to the charge of the Government, which has acted in perfect good faith towards them, and done probably more than any other Government ever did or would do to assist undertakings of this or any other kind. Rashness, ignorance, and bad advisers have led to most of their difficulties, and with such proofs of the mismanagement of railway directors on our home lines no one will be surprised at the un- successful result of their management of lines abroad. As an evidence that railways can be made and pro- perly managed by Brazilians I need only refer to the Dom Pedro Segundo, a line quite as important as any in the country. In separate chapters I have referred to this railway, and also to that in the province of San Paulo. I believe it would be greatly to the advantage of the rising generation in Brazil if the young men were trained to become engineers, rather than lawyers or doctors, with which the towns and cities swarm. Brazilians are neither deficient in talent nor energy, if properly brought out, and the employes of the Dom Pedro Segundo are chiefly natives. The splendid road to Juiz de Fora furnishes an example of this, and I regret time did not permit me to make another visit there, 172 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. which Senhor Mariano very kindly urged on me. Had it not been for the heavy expenditure of the Paraguayan war, the railway system of Brazil would doubtless 1> been much more extensively developed, and the pro- vincial lines now in existence carried further into the interior, as it is impossible the latter can ever productive of much revenue, or of much national benefit until they are prolonged to the chief centres of cultiva- tion, which, as a general rule, lie upwards of one hundred miles from the coast. The provinces of Pernambuco and Bahia both attach great importance to railway extension to the river San Francisco, but it does not appear from the report of Captain Burton, who latclv explored that river, that it is likely to yield so much traffic as is supposed. The want of population is the great drawback to railways, and until this want can lie met by emigration of some kind, a large aim unit of internal wealth must lie waste. My long detention in the southern part of Brazil and the River Plate prevented me visiting Bahia and Per- nambuco, and judging from personal observation as to the state and condition of the railways there, or reporting on the new tramway from Caxioerato the interior, which promises to be of great utility to the country traveix 4,200,000 57,540 > 250,000 8,250 barrels 11,294 25,066 n 116,860 1,519 bales 51,615 154,845 oitavas 5,704 37,000 principal articles, and the relative positions they occupy in the commerce of the country, will be seen by the estimated quantity and value of the exports from Rio de Janeiro for 1867, as stated in the Official Report to our Foreign Office by Mr. Pakenham : Coffee Sugar Cotton Rum Salted hides Dry hides Tapioca Horns Tobacco Diamonds Total 9,558,287 The exports from Pernambuco, Para, Bahia, Santos, and Bio Grande do Sul during the same period amount to about 7,000,000. Mr. Pakenham, in the same report, also remarks : " The Brazilian imports and exports for the last year for which there are Customs statistics amounted to 14,348,374 for imports, and to 15,607,090 for exports, and the total commercial movement with foreign countries had then increased 17 per cent, on the average of the preceding five years." The trade statistics of the Argentine Republic are quite as encouraging as those of its Imperial ally. I have before me a valuable communication of Mr. Daniel Maxwell, of Buenos Ayres, addressed to the Sociedade Rural Argentina, in which he makes the following com- parative statements as to the exports of produce during the periods mentioned : From 1858 to 1862. From 1862 to 1867. Dry Ox and Cow Hides . 5,554,417 6,798,152 Salted Ditto . 1,972,755 2,325,084 180 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. Dry Horse Hides Salted Ditto Bales of Wool. Bolsas Ditto From 1858 to 1862. . 805,057 780,190 251,191 7,456 From 1862 to 1867. 197,- 617,945 608,706 9,517 With the exception of horse hides these figures manifest a very material and striking augmentation in the pro- ductive energy of the Republic. The proportionate distribution is shown in the annexed tables : DRY OX, COW, AND HORSE HIDES. From 1858 to 1862. From 1862 to 1867. Great Britain France .... Belgium, Holland, and Ger- many .... United States Italy Spain . Sweden and Norway . .233 11.936 25.847 29.029 12.844 18.011 100.000 2.816 8.054 11.58$ 48.904 10.562 17.985 100.000 SALTED OX, COW, AND HORSE HII'Ks. From 1858 to 1862. From 1M2 to 1807 Great Britain . . . C:!.li_>:; France .... 12.592 Belgium, Holland, and Ger- many .... 17.873 United States . . . 2.626 Italy 3.482 Spain .... 0.304 Sweden nnd Norway 100.000 WOOLS. From 1858 to 1862. Groat Britain France .... Belgium, Holland, and Ger- many .... 39.784 United States . . . 21.083 Italy .... 27.608 1.303 14.533 31.807 1.889 1.M98 .408 .914 100.000 From 1862 to 18G7. 7.235 25.109 45.483 20.340 1.7 COMMERCE. 181 Prom 1858 to 1862. From 1862 to 1867. Spain . . . .039 .030 Sweden and Norway . '. .087 100.000 100.000 The number of sheep skins exported from 1858 to 1862 was 8,705,883 against 20,776,898 from 1862 to 1867; and with respect to the wool exported it may be desirable to explain that a bale of wool usually contains 34 arrobas, and that four bolsas or chiguas are equivalent to a bale. According to this calculation, the export of Avool from 1858 to 1862 reached 8,705,883 arrobas against 20,776,898 arrobas from 1862 to 1867. The war with Paraguay, though it has undoubtedly pressed upon the financial resources of the Republic, has in no manner arrested its commercial, industrial, and fiscal progress. This is very clearly apparent from statistics furnished by his Excellency Don Norberto de la Riestra in connection with the issue of the recent Argentine loan contracted in this country to cover the balance of the extraordinary expenditure caused by the protracted struggle with Lopez. I quote as follows from the document referred to, the value of which will be obvious : The official value of the foreign trade of the Eepublic through the port of Buenos Ayres alone in 1865 was ns follows : Imports % . 5,420,603 Exports * 4,399,355 Total . . 9,819,958 In 1866 it was : Imports 6,453,817 Exports 4,605,942 Total . . 11,059,759 The real value of the aggregate trade for 1866, including the other ports of the Eepublic, cannot be estimated at less than 16,000,000, and has continued since to augment. 182 BRAZIL AND THE KIVEB PLATE. The declared value of produce and manufactures exported from he United Kingdom to the Republic in 1807 has amounted to 2,838,037, taking in this respect the lead of all the other South American States, Brazil only excepted. The export of wool, which is the staple article, from the port of Buenos Ayres alone was as follows : Season 1863-64 77,343/200 Ibs. 1864-65 .... 104,688,000 Ibs. 1865-66 120,362,400 Ibs. and the same progressive increase is observable in the other pro- ductions of the country. Referring to Brazil, every Parisian luxury is found in the cities, Rio de Janeiro being full of French shops, and the Rua d'Ouvidor, one of its principal streets, is almost exclusively French. Of course many important trades and industrial occupations are carried on, and in particular the manufacture of carriages, which equal in elegance and solidity those of any country in Plurope. Iron foundries, iron ship-building, and other useful establishments also exist; but there are few cotton, woollen, or silk manufactories. Therefore the com- merce of Brazil is almost entirely one of exchange. As regards the River Plate, a large trade is main- tained with France, Belgium, and other parts of Europe, where River Plate produce is extensively consumed. It is only necessary to look at the mariner in which tin ladies of Monte Video and Buenos Ayres dress to form an idea of the extent of French imports to those places. There are no manufactories in the River Plate bevond J such as have been specified in regard to Brazil, carriage making being equally conspicuous. It is a feature in the Board of Trade Returns that Paraguay, which has of late years caused such a noise in the world, makes no figure whatever. Now of course it is under blockade, but previous to that event the figures were almost nil. JJd the ruler of that country COMMERCE. 183 used his energies to produce and export 5,000 bales of cotton annually, for which article the land and climate are admirably adapted, what would have been the state and condition of Paraguay at the present moment ? It is not requisite to enlarge on such a topic. Whilst adverting to the commerce of these countries, and to their internal wealth, their mineral products must not be left out of sight, and in this respect Brazil possesses a great superiority from the steady working of her gold and diamond mines, which have always been a source of considerable revenue, even though they are probably not yet very perfectly explored. To do this it requires a large outlay of money and the enterprise of private individuals or public companies. Formerly the mines were worked exclusively for the Crown. The Argentine Eepublic has not yet given much signs of mineral activity, but there can be no doubt gold exists, as well as silver, in the Andine Provinces, and when the railway is carried on to Cordova we may hear a good deal more of the San Juan silver mines, to the development of which Major Rickards has devoted himself for so many years. In the Banda Oriental gold has long been known to exist in the mountains of Canapiru, and the inde- fatigable Mr. Bankhart has succeeded in forming a com- pany of Monte Yidean shareholders to operate there. He is now in England obtaining the needful machinery and securing workmen for the mines. If successful it will be a great boon to the country, and may assist in providing a future metallic currency, from lack of which things now appear to be at a deadlock. It will be seen from this short summary how closely our commercial interests are identified with those of the countries referred to, and how desirable it is, as at 184 BRAZIL A3D THE RIVER PLATE. present, that the most friendly relations should be maintained with them. Nor are these likely to be again disturbed. In every port and city in South America are to be found British merchants and representatives of the country, the latter placed there, not, as previously, with a view to cavil, find fault, and thivaU-ii, but to see fair play and justice impartially administered to British subjects. The doctrine of non-interference in the political squabbles of other countries is now gem-rally adopted, diplomatic meddlers are discouraged, and tlu- post of foreign minister in South America is much more agreeable than former ly. THE RIVER AMAZON. As it has not been my good fortune to visit this mighty stream, I cannot, of course, speak of it from personal experience, but the Amazon is exciting so much atten- tion in various parts of the world in consequence of the late voyage of Professor Agassiz that a brief notice may not be out of place here. Most persons have read Mr. Bates' very interesting work, " The Naturalist on the Amazon," in which he has described in so graphic a manner the wonders of that country in the shape of animal and vegetable life. Since it was written a great change has taken place in the future prospects of the Amazon by the politic step of the Brazilian Government in throwing open its waters to the flags of all nations, from which will result much valuable information, if it is not immediately followed by commercial progress to the extent that some sanguine writers have foretold. This act has called forth in Europe and America the most gratifying tributes in commendation of the unselfish attitude thus assumed by Brazil towards the commerce of the world. The American journals are especially unstinted in their praise. With regard to the probable consequences of 186 BRAZIL AND THE KIVEfc PLATE. this measure one writer, the Rev. J. C. Fletcher, states as follows : The opening of the Amazon, which occurred on the 7th of September, 1867, and by which the great river is free to the flags of all nations from the Atlantic to Peru, and the abrogation of the monopoly of the coast trade from the Amazon to the Rio Grande do Sul, whereby 4,000 miles of Brazilian sea coast are open to the vessels of every country, cannot fail not only to develop the resources of Brazil, but will prove of great benefit to the bordering Hispano- American Republics and to the maritime nations of the earth. The opening of the Amazon is the most significant indication that the leven of the narrow monopolistic Portuguese conservatism has at last worked out. Portugal would not allow Humboldt to enter the Amazon valley in Brazil. The result of the new policy is beyond the most sanguine expectation. The exports and imports for I for October and November, 1867 were double those of 18Gi'-. This is but the beginning. Soon it will be found that it is cheaper fjr Bolivia, Peru, Kijuador, and New Granada east of the Andes to receive their goods from and to export their indiarubber, chincona, &c., to the United States and i 10 great water highway which discharges into the Atlantic than by the long, circuitous route of Cape Horn, or the Trans-Isthmian route of Panama. The Purus and the Madeira are hereafter to be navigated by steamers. The valley of the Amazon in Brazil is as large as the arc ;i of the United States east of Colorado, while the valley of the Amazon in and out of Brazil is equal to all the United States east of California, Oregon, and Washington territory, and yet the population is not equal to the single city of Rio de Janeiro or the combined inhalntair Boston and Chicago. It is estimated that a larger popuhit ion can be sustained in the valley of the Amazon than elsewhere on the globe. Explorations have already been commenced by enter- prising men from the Southern States of America, who have no doubt of the adaptability of the soil and of the climate on the banks of this noble stream for all the pro- ductions of the torrid zone. One of these pi UK-ITS, Mr. John A V. Dowsing, has lately presented a most inte ing report, with respect to the resources of Para, to his Excellency the President of that important province : THE RIVER AMAZON. 187 May ifc please your Excellency, I herewith have the honour to submit a succinct Report of a recent exploration of a portion of the valley of the Amazon, and some of the tributaries of the Amazon river, by me, accompanied by Captain John B. Jones, George M. Sandidge, Charles H. Mallory, and Charles M. Broom, and all under the patronage of the Imperial Government of Brazil. In accordance with instructi r ns from the Minister of Agriculture to your Excellency, I was furnished with transportation, and one conto of reis to defray incidental expenses, and letters to various officials within the Province of Para to facilitate my explorations and secure as far as practicable every information I might desire in regard to the country, in order that I might more fully report to those of my countrymen in the United States who are now deeply interested in emigration. Myself and party, consisting of the four above-named gentlemen, left Belem on the 9th of November, 1867, on board the steamer Soure for Cameta on the Rio Tocantins. After several days' prepara- tion we ascended that river nearly to the falls ; returning we ascended the Amazon and Tapajoz rivers to the town of Santarem and surrounding country, thence to the contiguous islands and up the Tapajoz, thence up the Amazon river to its junction with the Rio JSTegro to the city of Manaos. From Manaos we made several excursions into the country. It was my purpose to go to Rio Branco, but utterly failing to obtain transportation, after remaining twenty-two days, I changed my course to Rio Matary and the lakes into which it leads. The information I obtained at the various places visited would doubtless be of great utility to the commercial world. It would open up a new market for the various productions, and new fields for the employment of industry. The trade up the valley of the Amazon, upon the great river and its numerous tributaries, is very considerable. Its full extent and value does not appear in the published statistics of your commerce. The trade up this magnificent valley is susceptible of almost unlimited expansion. It stands alone in the inconceivable grandeur of its capabilities and the wonderful sublimity of its future destinies. This magnificent valley, with its wonderful and inexhaustible resources, will form a great avenue of commercial communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific Oceans. It is an immense prolific theatre for the formation of colonies. There is no doubt 183 BRAZIL AND TEE RIVER PLATE. but that the best route for many manufactures from Europe and North America to Peru is through the valley of the Amazon. The productions of this wonderful valley are necessarily very diversified. They include all the tropical vegetables and fruits, many kinds of furniture and dyewoods, many medicinal drugs, and in the elevated lands it is peculiarly rich in minerals. The great staples exported in wlrch the commercial world is interested are india- rubber, cacao, sarsaparilla, tobacco, hides salted and prrccn, various vegetable oils, cotton, deer skins, isinglass, urucu, rice, &c., &c. The general surface of a great portion of the Province of Para is even and undulating while it ia diversified with many rich campos and numerous beautiful lakes and streams, filled with every variety of fish and turtle. Elevated lands, rising here and there, import variety, grandeur, and picturesque beauty to its scenery. To expatiate upon the beauty, capabilities, and resources of the numerous streams tributary to the great basin of the Amazon, the country margining these streams, the general characteristics of the inhabitants, &c., would invite and justify a voluminous report. I will content myself, however, with a few reflections upon the brilliant future that awaits this favoured country. My investigations disclose that the valley of the Amazon is ono immense forest of valuable timber, woods of the finest grain, and susceptible of the highest polish : adapted to cabinet purposes. For building vessels there is no woods on the earth equal to those grown in the valley of the Amazon. This is the country for indiarnbber, sarsaparilla, balsam, copaiba, gum copal, animal and vegetable wax, cocoa, castanha nuts, sapucia nuts, tonka beans, ginger, black pepper, arrowroot, annetto, indigo, dyes of the gayest colours, and drugs of rarest medicinal virtues. These immense forests arc filled with game, and all the rivers and lakes are filled with fish and turtle. The climate of this country is salubrious and the temperature most agreeable. The direct rays of the sun are tempered by a con- stant east wind, laden with moisture from the ocean, so that one never Buffers from either heat or cold. I found the nights invariably cool enough to use blankets. "With the succulent tropical fruits, the great variety of game, and the salubrious climate, this country is a paradise for the indolent man ; for here he can maintain life almost without an effort. The geographical position of Belem gives it many advantages. THE RIVER AMAZON. 189 It is in the direct route of vessels to or from European and North American ports and the Pacific and Indian oceans. Therefore this city could be made a half way station for vessels thus bound to receive orders. With an interior river navigation of many thousands of miles, with a soil of great fertility, and a climate which allows tropical vegetation to develop itself in all its luxuriance, with varied and inexhaustible mineral wealth, the Provinces of Para and Amazonas are specially marked out by nature to become the most wealthy country on the globe. Belem possesses the requisites for carrying on commerce on an extensive scale. The right steps have been adopted in inaugurating and securing a general commercial system for Belem by the establish- ment of the Amazon Steamship Company. In order to build up this city and country, and make it what the future determines it to be, the mineral and agricultural resources must be developed. The slave population is being rapidly diminished by the war with Paraguay and self-emancipation. How is this labour to be re-sup- plied ? It can only be done by the immigration of the hard working, industrious yeomanry of the United States and Europe. The surplus population of Europe and the disaffected citizens in the Southern portion of the United States will find their way to this immediate section of the country. The great exodus will as naturally flow into the vast arable area of the valley of the Amazon as did the tribes of Asia flow into Europe through the passes of the Caucausus. Every advancing wave of population will lift higher and higher the gathering flood of human life, which the moment it commences to press upon the means of subsistence in their respective countries must pour all of its vast tide of human beings into the great valley of the Amazon, and will eventually tinite in one living chain of in- dustrial life the waters of the Atlantic with the Pacific. This country as yet is but a wilderness, but the inexorable laws of civilisation will at no distant day thread the labyrinthian mazes of this immensely fertile valley, and when teeming with industrious life it will pour into the coffers of this Empire untold wealth, thereby giving this portion of the Imperial Government a significance second to no portion of the earth. The rich natural and agricultural productions of this valley must be poured out to the balance of the world. Upon the banks of each of the tributaries of the mighty Amazon city after city will as by 190 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. enchantment arise to export the productions of the soil of this favoured country. The valley of the Amazon is yet to exercise a powerful influence on the political destinies of this Empire. The future destiny of this valley is to be a glorious one ; and for- tunate the descendants of those who may now obtain a foothold ami interest upon this soil. As already indicated the true elements of future greatness lie in the substratum of industry. The valley of the Amazon must have labour to develop its resources. The cities of North America and Europe are crowded with young men seeking employment. The offices of European Consuls in the United States are crowded with foreigners, who have exhausted their last cent and are seeking for any kind of work. Let them come to the valley of the Amazon with agricultural implements and obtain a home upon these fertile lands. Those who are lingering around the crowded seaports of poverty and -\ having no chance with others in the great world, should turn their attention to the valley of the Amazon, where a free homestead upon rich lands and with salubrious climate can be obtained. The prosperity of this country is the future welfare of all civilised nations. This country has everything to hope for ; nature has not been unmindful of its most precious gifts to this land. In the selection of lands, upon which it is my purpose to establish a colony, I will be governed by the advantages offered by the lands at Brigan9a over those explored. If the lands at Briganca are well watered and rich its accessability will decide me. The migration to Brazil of energetic and agricultural population from the former Confederate States of North America is still going on, and may produce hereufUT :; a most beneficial effect on the destinies of the Empire. On this topic General Hawthorn and Mr. AY. T. Moore have addressed some interesting remarks to the Bra- zilian Minister of Agriculture. The following is the concluding paragraphs of the communication to which I refer : The people of the South must emigrate but how, and where to ? These are questions that may well engage the earnest attention of every Government that desires to increase the number of its good and loyal citizens. Though there may be a few unworthy persons THE KIVER AMAZON. 191 claiming to be from the late Confederate States who have imposed and forced their lazy carcases and worthless habits upon this kind and liberal Government, we desire to say in the most emphatic and unequivocal terms that the great body of the Southern people are not professional emigrants, who systematically cringe the knee and hypocritically kiss the feet of every monarch that will scatter among them the crumbs of charity ; on the contrary, they are the remnants of a gallant race, who, having struggled in vain to save their country from destruction and themselves from slavery, will like ^Eneas and his Trojan followers gather round them their aged fathers and mothers, their wives, their children, their household gods, and, emigrating to some foreign land, lend their powerful aid in building up the country of their adoption and pushing it forward to a con- spicuous place in the front rank of nations. They will carry with them their statesmen, their orators, and their men of science, and though they may carry little gold and silver, and but a few of this world's goods, yet they will carry with them rich stores of great and active thought, vast mines of un- flagging energy and industry, immense treasures of practical and scientific knowledge in planting, navigation, commerce, and the fine arts. They will carry with them stout hearts, untarnished honour, and unconquered manhood ; but above all, for that Government which shall now extend its liberal hand and relieve them in this their hour of need, they will cherish that unshaken fidelity and loyalty that will uphold and maintain it in its prosperity and rally around and die for it whenever its day of trial and danger comes. They are a race that have won imperishable honours in every walk of life, and upon every field of action that has ever been opened to human enterprise, and wherever they go in large bodies they cannot fail to add wealth to the coffers and prosperity to the land of their adoption. Having adopted Brazil as our future home, and believing as we do that it is better adapted to the wants of our people than any other country upon earth, we should rejoice to see the good and true people of the South emigrate in masses to this wonderful country. Hence our anxiety that this Government should fully understand the character, the capacities, and the habits of the Southern people. Since we have been in Brazil we have reflected deeply upon this subject, and the result of our observations and reflections is that the people of the late Confederate States, being, as they are, strangers to the language, habits, and customs of this country, cannot be com- pletely prosperous or contented here unless they settle in colonies 192 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. by themselves, and that too upon a scale sufficiently largo to carry on successfully all the various trades and professions, to have their own schools and churches, in short, to relievo them from tho neces- sity of learning a foreign language before obtaining complete success in their agricultural, manufacturing, or mercantile operations. Wo are also deeply impressed with the belief that in order to a full development of their energies as a people and a successful renewal of those glorious triumphs in every art and science that once ren- dered them so illustrious, it is necessary they should be left as free and untrammelled in their action as the safety and dignity of an enlightened and liberal Government will admit. We therefore respectfully suggest that (ns an inducement for this heroic people to emigrate to Brazil in one vast body, bringing with them tl.cir greatest, their wisest, and their best men ; bringing AN ith them their household gods, their customs, their manners, their indomital'V energy and unflinching courage ; but above all, bringing in their bosoms tho bright hope that their race is not yet run, but that a brilliant and a glorious future awaits them here) tho Government cause to be set apart and reserved for their settlement and use large bodies of the public lands, which may be selected by judicious and intelligent men; that these lands be surveyed as occasion may require, and sold in limited quantities, at fixed uniform rates, to that people alone, or to such as they may desire to settle in their midst ; and that they be allowed full and complete religious tolera- tion, as also the full rights of citizenship, whenever they shrill take the oath of allegiance to the Government ; that each of these colonies, including such as are already established, as well as those that may to established hereafter, be made a congressional, military, and judicial district, which, when it shall have tho requisite number of inhabitants, shall be entitled to representatives in the national and provincial assemblies, chosen from among themselves ; that so far as possible all their officers placed immediately over them be i speaking their own language, and familiar with their rusto-ns and manners ; that all professional men among them who shall prodiu <; satisfactory evidence of good character and a reputable practice in the land from which they came be permitted to practice their res- pective professions within the limits of tho raid colonies, without having to undergo rigorous examinations in a foreign langu-L-e ; in short, that every liberal concession bo made that a true and Joy; d people could ask, or a wise and generous Government could grant. Your Excellency need not fear the result. Ours is not a race THE RIVER AMAZON. 193 that breeds either traitors or cowards. When we have once plighted our faith, dangers cannot weaken nor bayonets break its clasp. Every liberal concession which a generous prince may grant, or an enlightened people sanction, will but strengthen our loyalty and increase our gratitude. We sincerely trust that your Excellency will live to see the day when Brazil, renovated and strengthened by the infusion of this great Southern element, will assume among the nations of the earth the very first place in prosperity, glory, and power, as she now holds the first in charity and true kindness to a brave but unfortunate people, That the policy of the Brazilian Government with regard to her territories on the Amazon is in the right direction no one can deny, and it is in striking contrast with the proceedings of the ruler of Paraguay, who could, in the erection of his formidable strongholds, have had no other object in view than that of impeding, if he did not absolutely obstruct, the passage of the River Paraguay. Paraguayan advocates have, indeed, en- deavoured to show that the opening of the Amazon by Brazil was solely dictated by self-interested motives, but let the world look at the facts and judge accordingly. Many years back the Government largely subsidised a steam company to navigate on the Amazon, which it continues to support notwithstanding the pressure of financial difficulties. This company goes on prospering, and adding to its fleet, and will now be still more useful in assisting foreigners to pioneer their way. Thus the country can be explored and settlements made. It is gratifying to hear the climate of the Amazon so favour- ably spoken of in the reports I have inserted, as at one time it was feared this would be a barrier to successful emigration. The emphatic language of the writers is not to be mistaken, and the Government of Brazil will do well to afford to the active and go-a-head Anglo-Saxon race every possible encouragement in their emigration work. 194 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. The city of Para is admirably placed and its trade has largely augmented of late. In fact, it promises ere long to become the emporium of the northern commerce of Brazil as Rio de Janeiro is of the southern, and when we glance over the map, and see the enormous tribu- taries of the Amazon extending as far as the waters of the great La Plata itself, it is difficult to say u hat new sources of wealth may not be opened up from the countries through which these rivers flow. There aiv. natural obstructions to be overcome, and tribes of Indians to be encountered, but the strong arm and the willing heart can conquer these difficulties, clearing their pathway through the forests to the fertile 1 plains beyond. But little is yet known as to the Indian tribes scattered over the immense valley of the Amazon and its tributaries. That they are not numerous, however, is pretty certain, nor can they offer much rc^i>tance to the advance of the white man, when once the tide of emigration to that country is fairly set in. It would, of course, be politic to conciliate and make friends of the aborigines, but circumstances do not appear favourable to such an arrangement. By a recent llio paper it appears that a lightship is shortly to be placed at the entrance to Para, and that it had been successfully experimented upon outside the port of Santa Cruz in the presence of the Emperor. Alluding again to Professor Agassiz, I have had the pleasure of perusing his valuable narrative, which, al- though containing much matter only of interest to naturalists and scientific people, conveys at the same time a wonderful amount of practical information, and from which a pretty correct idea may be formed of the probable or speculative future of the Amazon valley. THE EIVER AMAZON. 195 The Amazon, I may just observe, flows through the territory of the Empire for a distance of upwards of 500 leagues, and in its course towards the ocean receives no fewer than eighteen affluents of the first magnitude. The names are as follows : From the south, the Xingii, Tapajoz, Madeira, Purus, Coary, Teffe, Myurua, Hyu- tuby, and Hyavary ; and from the north, the Sary, Peru, Trombetas, Nhamunda, Uatuman, Uruba, Negro, Hyu- pura, and Iga. These rivers, from above the falls which exist on the boundaries of the provinces of Para and Amazonas, are collectively navigable by steamers for 7,351 leagues, not going outside the Imperial territorial limits. In this total, navigation on the Amazon proper figures for 580 leagues; that on the basins of the principal affluents for 5,771 leagues; and that on the lesser tributaries, lakes, and canals for 1,000 leagues. As I have already remarked the Amazonian network of navigable streams reaches to within a little of the La Plata riverine system. The sources of the Tapajoz, flowing into the Amazon, are only separated by an in- considerable strip of land from those of the Paraguay, flowing into the River Plate, and were these two rivers connected by artificial means an immense section of the South American Continent would be insulated by ocean and fluvial waters. This great work may probably remain undone for many years to come, but that it will be eventually accomplished I do not at all doubt. The progress of commerce and the development of enterprise in these countries clearly point to the ultimate realisation of this magnificent result. Before passing to other topics, I will briefly notice another noble river of Brazil the San Francisco which traverses the central portion of the Empire, and waters the extensive and important provinces of Minas 196 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. Geraes, Bahia, Pernambuco, Alagoas, and Sergipe. The Rio das Yelhas, Rio Verde, Rio Grande, and the Para- catu are amongst its tributaries, and are all of them streams which in Europe would be regarded as of very superior size. The San Francisco is notable for its famous falls of Paulo Affonso. which witnesses of both have pronounced to greatly excel those of Niagara in their imposing majesty and grandeur. Above these falls there is an uninterrupted navigation of about 230 leagues, and below to the mouth, nearly 50 leagues, there is not the slightest obstruction to vessels of respectable ton no . A large part of the immense basin of the Paraguay, in the J liver I Mate, also belongs to Brazil, in whose territories most of the principal rivers of that system have their origin; and numerous other streams, of more or less consequence, permeate different parts of the Empire on their way to the sea. Several of these are capable of navigation by steamers for at least 100 leagues. TELEGRAPHIC COMMUNICATION. THE North American Continent has now for some time past been linked to Europe by the electric wire, in- augurating what may almost be termed a new era of civilisation ; and the fact of laying the cable will live in history as long as the name of the leviathan ship through whose medium this great result was accomplished. South America has yet to depend solely upon steam communication, but doubtless the means of magnetic intercourse will soon be supplied. Already a rival company has been formed to lay down a cable from Brest to America under privileges obtained from the French and American Governments, and the great ship, with her gallant commander, Sir James Anderson, is again to be called into requisition. It is very desirable that extra cables should be laid in case of accident to those at present existing. I had hoped on my arrival home to find a company organised and a cable about to be laid from Falmouth to Portugal and the Azores, for which a concession had been obtained by Messrs. Rumball and Medlicott ; but it appears that the stupidity of the Cortes prevented this important line being carried out important to the 198 BRAZIL AND THE BIVEH PLATE. world and to Portugal in particular, as it would have rendered that country the great centre of telegraphic communication, not only with her own islands, but also with North and South America, to which it was intended the line should eventually be carried. There would also have been a large and lucrative business between England and Lisbon, in connection with the mail o steamers to and from Brazil, which at present is carried on under great disadvantage through Spain. Portugal and Spain are sadly in arrear as regards commercial progress and advancement, and Messrs. Rumball and Medlicott experienced the same fate as the South Eastern of Portugal Railway, which, though the Government had agreed to take it over, on equitable terms, the Cortes refused to ratify the agreement. All Messrs. Rumball and Medlicott required was an alteration in the law which prevented the Govern- ment granting concessions for more than twenty years. The concessionaries asked for ninety-nine years, which ought to have been readily granted, seeing the manifest advantage to Portugal of establishing such a facility for communication ; but no, these pes de chumbo (leaden feet), as they are designated in other parts of the world, would not quicken their pace even to promote the best interests of their country. Sordid motives would also appear to be at the bottom of these acts of repudiation, with which both Spain and Portugal are too familiar. I think a line might be stretched across the Isthmus of Panama, passing from the West Coast and over the Andes to Buenos Ayres, where a telegraphic cable can easily be laid along the seaboard to Rio de Janeiro. The Argentine Government is now laying down wires from Buenos Ayres to Rosario, whence the Central Argen- TELEGRAPHIC COMMUNICATION. 199 tine Railway carries them on to Cordova, so that a com- munication with Valparaiso or some port on the West Coast would not be a very formidable work. Nothing would tend more to consolidate and bind the Argentine provinces together than railways and electric wires. It is true the latter might be exposed to temporary injury, from political agitators and others, but this is no argument against the introduction of so great a civiliser, which even savages soon learn to respect, and look upon with a certain degree of awe. The onward march of civilisation and progress in the Argentine, as well as the Chilian Republic, would most certainly, under every circumstance, greatly tend to secure and keep open an agency so useful to both. I understand that General Webb, United States Minister at Rio de Janeiro, has lately been authorised to submit an important scheme for the laying of an ocean cable to place Brazil in telegraphic communica- tion with both Europe and North America; and I am glad to learn that there is great probability of some- thing practical resulting from the negotiations in pro- gress in respect to this proposal. RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS. SPAIN and Portugal as a matter of course introduced the Roman Catholic religion in their South American conquests. The aborigines, being imbued with a vene- ration for forms, or imagery of some kind, soon fell under the influence of the priesthood. Volumes have been written on the power and grandeur of the Jesuit >. who were assuredly the pioneers of civilisation in South America, and they certainly accomplished what the sword could never have A}\.\ Papal and monarchial jealousy led to their expulsion, but many Miltantial buildings still remain as evidence of their activity and influence. The district called Missions, lyin^: In-tween Paraguay, Brazil, and the Banda Oriental, which has long been a bone of contention between the ruler of Paraguay and the Argentine Republic, abounds with their ancient edifices, mostly in rums, and Paraguay itself retains to this day many of the characteristics of the Jesuit rule, which was exercised in a despotic manner half sacerdotal, half military. Any one visiting South America must be struck with the enormous size of the churches and convents, so utterly out of proportion to what must have been the wants of the population at the period of their erection, and even at this moment many of these buildings are RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS. 201 unoccupied, as stated in my notice of the Brazilian city of San Paulo. These churches and convents were endowed with enormous tracts of land, which in process of time have become very valuable, and if appropriated to State purposes would go a long way towards paying off the national debt of Brazil. Some measure of this kind will inevitably be adopted at some future period, as in most instances the property itself is unproductive of any national benefit, nor is it utilised for any national object. The power of the priesthood still predominates and subjects the masses, if not a majority of the en- lightened population, to its influence, and little short of a social revolution can wrest from the Church what is no longer required for religious observances, or dis- tributed in any way towards the spread of religious knowledge. Mexico is an instance of the pernicious and fatal effects produced by a dominant priesthood, and although the more liberal views of Brazilians have weakened the priestly trammels in which some other parts of South America are still held, few have come forward to propose divesting the Church of her non- productive property. The Roman Catholic religion is the religion of the State in Brazil, though all others are tolerated by law and treaties, nor has any difficulty ever arisen in this respect. At the same time it cannot be denied that open attempts at proselytism would be attended with danger. So long as foreign communities carry on their own religious ceremonies quietly and without ostentation all will be well, but too much demonstration might be productive of mischievous results. As a body it cannot be said the Roman Catholic priest- hood of South America is held in much esteem by the laity. Their stronghold is in the subserviency of the 2 A 202 BRAZIL AND THE RIVER PLATE. more ignorant and narrow-minded of their flock, pre- cisely as we find it all over the world, and even at home. In the River Plate, owing in a great measure to the scattered nature of the population, the influence of the priesthood has been less felt or exercised than in Iira/il, besides which the large introduction of the foreign element in its towns and cities has led to greater freedom of thought and action. Nevertheless the church lias large possessions in land, to which the same objections may be urged as in the case of Brazil, and the sooner they are appropriated to national objects the Cordova may be termed a city of churches and convents, the greater number of which are useless. A recent writer on Cordova says: "In telling anything of Cordova it is impossible to omit to >pi-ak of her churches: there are over thirty of them, besides the the Cathedral. A description of them and their ri< and institutions would make a large book. I have neither the requisite information, inclination, nor the time to go into the details of this painful theme the Church in Cordova being so manifestly an incubus on the advancement of the country. Immense capital - locked up in massive buildings and lands, which the clergy will neither sell nor cultivate, and a small armv of friars and nuns unproductive men and women in every sense is detached from the world to manage these great properties, which yield nothing to the people moral or material." The great Republic of the United States presents a good example to those of South America by permitting free admission of every religion its citizens may choose to adopt without allowing the predominance of any one in particular. THE AFFLUENTS OF LA PLATA, HERE and there, in the progress of my work, I have casually referred to the Rio de la Plata and its affluents ; but the fluvial system which they together constitute is certainly deserving of more than a merely cursory com- ment. I will, therefore, add to my remarks on the Amazon and its tributaries some more precise observa- tions with respect to the numerous rivers which give access to the fertile regions of Paraguay and furnish the Argentine Confederation with an extensive littoral coast. The rivers Parana, Uruguay, and Paraguay are, however, now too well known to necessitate any very minute description. The first originates at no great distance from the shores of the Atlantic in that part of the table land of Brazil which divides the watershed of the Amazon from the watershed of the Elver Plate. Its most distant branch is the Rio Grande, which it receives at the confluence of the latter with the Para- nahyba; and after an interrupted course of about 1,000 miles it finally effects a junction with the Paraguay, its largest affluent. Thence its huge volume of water, further augmented by the Uruguay, rolls to the ocean, forming that wide fresh water sea known as the estuary of the Plate. The Parana runs for nearly 900 miles within the limits of the Argentine Republic, and of this 204 BRAZIL AND TIIE IIIVKIl PLATE. distance quite 750 are navigable throughout the whole year for sailing vessels and steamers of 300 tons burden. It begins to rise owing to intertropical rains towards the end of December, and this continues up to the close of April. Below its confluence with the Para-uay the average rise is eleven to twelve feet. The only tribu- tary the Parana receives between its confluence with the Paraguay and its absorption in the estuary of the La Plata is the Rio Salado, a river of great length, and having its source in the Andine regions of the Anren- tine Confederation. The Paraguay, like the Parana, has its origin in Brazilian territory. After passing through the Estrecho of Sao Francisco, (lat. 20 S.) it flows southwards, dividing the Republic of Paraguay from the Gran Chaco; a few miles below Asuncion, at a point called Angostura, the channel is narrowed by rocks, and the current becomes very rapid in conse- quence, taking a bend west by south until it mingles with the Parana. The Paraguay is navigable by 1; craft, and steamers have for some years ascended to Asuncion and Matto Grosso. The Paraguay rccc: the Pilcomayo, a very large stream of over 1,000 in and which, taking its rise near the city of Cliii