J7e,si< do py HANDBOOK. OF ELEMENTARY SEWING ETTA PROCTOR FLAGS Department of Home Economic* University of California 405 HilV'ard Avenue r |f .<. ^mpiftf, 24. Calif^rnip THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES GIFT SCHOOL OF OK ECOROiCS STATE NOR/VIAL SCHOOL Department of Home Economics University of California 405 E:lgard Avenue Los Angeles 24, California Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2013 http://archive.org/details/handbookofelemenOOflag_0 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING ARRANGED BY ETTA PROCTOR FLAGG SUPERVISOR OF HOME ECONOMICS IN THE LOS ANGELES CITY SCHOOLS ILL US TEA TED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS AND DIAGRAMS BOSTON LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY 1915 Copyright, 1915, By Little, Brown, and Compant. All rights reserved Published, May, 1915 Set up and electrotyped by J. S. Cushing Co., Norwood, Mass. , U.S.A. Presswork by S. J. Parkhill& Co., Boston, Mass., U.S.A. no PREFACE This course has been arranged for the elementary schools of Los Angeles, California. It has been worked out to meet the conditions that exist in that city and may be taught satisfactorily by the grade teachers as far as the seventh grade. A few of the suggestions have already been printed in the School Arts Magazine and are reprinted through the courtesy of the publishers. My assistants in the department have given me many valuable sugges- tions, and I am also indebted to the art department for assistance in simple designs. SCHOOL TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE Preface . v PART I General Directions 1 Stitches used in the Fourth Grade .... 2 Stitches used in the Fifth Grade .... 4 Utensils and Materials 16 PART II Outline of Work. Fourth Grade 27 Fifth Grade 31 Sixth Grade 41 Seventh and Eighth Grades . . 53 Supplementary Work ....... 54 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Doilies, Sewing Case, Bookmarker, Towel with Swedish Weaving. Full Page . . . . . Frontispiece PAGE Hemming Stitch as it looks on the Right Side ... 7 Hemming Stitch as it looks on the Wrong Side, and How to Join the Thread 8 Top Sewing-needle in Position 11 Buttonhole 13 Felled Seam 15 Pinwheel, Xeedle Case, Sewing Bag, Laundry Bag, Holder, Towel. Full Page 28 Doll's Sunbonnet showing Squares Cut Out and One Side Overcast 31 Stocking Darning 36 Draft of Sewing Apron 38 Cooking Apron 42 Fifth and Sixth Grade Bags. Full Page .... 46 Diagram of Cross Stitch Bag . . . . . .46 Draft for Cap 50 Dusting Cap . . .51 Supplementary Work. Designs in Cross Stitch and Em- broidery for Underwear. Full Page .... 54 Inside of Magazine Cover 56 Laundry Bag 57 Rubber Bag showing Feather-stitching with Needle in Position 58 Pattern for Apron, One-eighth Size . .... 61 Fancy Apron, One-eighth Size 68 Pattern for Front and Side Gore of Skirt .... 69 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING PART I GENERAL DIRECTIONS The pupil should provide herself with the following articles : A bag or box in which to keep everything. One paper of Milward's needles Nos. 3 to 9. One paper of crewel needles No. 4. A pair of small scissors. A tape measure. A spool of white thread, Clark's or Coats's, No. 70. A steel or silver thimble. The thread should be marked with the name of the owner, and the scissors should have a tag with the owner's name written upon it. See that the hands are perfectly clean. Let the light come from behind and over the left shoulder if possible. Always work with a thimble that fits the finger. When obliged to take out stitches, use the eye-end of the needle and pick out one stitch at a time. 1 2 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING If left-handed, work with the left hand, unless the parents are unwilling. Be sure that nothing is left unfinished at the end of the term. STITCHES USED IN THE FOURTH GRADE Basting. There are two kinds of basting that are commonly used : the even and the uneven. For both the work should be held in the same way. Place the work over the forefinger of the left hand and work from right to left. Uneven Basting. Tie a knot in the thread. Take a small stitch one eighth of an inch long, carry the needle on half an inch, take another eighth-inch stitch. Continue in the same manner. Fasten with two small stitches taken over each other. This is used for simple decoration and for a tempo- rary fastening for seams or hems where no strain comes. Even Basting. Thread as before ; make the stitches all one fourth of an inch in length ; fasten as before. This is used for seams where any strain may come, and also by very young children for simple decoration. Overcasting. Hold work over the left forefinger, working from right to left. Fasten thread with two small stitches on the wrong side of the cloth. Place the needle one eighth of an inch below the edge or fold ; point the needle to the left shoulder; take the next stitch one fourth of an inch to the left; continue to the end of the seam ; fasten with two small stitches. A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 3 Running Stitch. Fasten the thread with two small stitches. Carry the needle forward one sixteenth of an inch and take one sixteenth of an inch stitch through the cloth. Continue these even stitches. In gathering, use the running stitch but tie a small, firm knot in the thread before beginning. In running, hold the work in both hands and take several stitches before drawing the needle through the cloth. Blanket Stitch. The blanket stitch is used for finishing raw edges, for working the loop and the bar used in buttonholes, and for simple embroidery. It is worked from left to right ; the buttonhole stitch from right to left. The depth of the stitch and the space between the stitches may be varied and will depend upon its use. Great care must be taken in joining and in fastening the thread, or the edge will be uneven. To fasten the thread used in blanket stitching, turn to the wrong side, take a couple of running stitches under the last blanket stitch, draw the needle through, and cut off the thread. To join the thread, run the needle in under the last stitch, as in the beginning of the work, and draw it out over the thread that lies along the edge. For Canvas or Heavy Cloth. Insert the needle on the wrong side at a point the desired depth of the blanket stitch and take two or three running stitches to the edge of the cloth; this will bring the thread in position for the first stitch. Make the first blanket stitch over 4 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING these running stitches. Holding the edge of the cloth toward you, insert the needle from above at the same point as before and bring it out over the thread; draw the loop thus made to the edge of the cloth. Repeat for successive stitches. For a simple finish, make the stitches on the flannel as far apart as they are deep. For a more ornamental finish, place several stitches in a group, or the stitches may be of different lengths, or spaces may be left between the groups of stitches. For Embroidering an Edge. Take the stitches as before but place them close together, so as to make a firm edge. If desired, the edge may be padded before working; the padding is done by working along the edge with either the chain or the outline stitch. Cross-stitch. The cross-stitch is used wholly as a decorative stitch, usually on art canvas or so-called cross-stitch canvas. The stitch is worked from right to left and is made by taking small stitches diagonally, in holes prepared for them, and then reversing and crossing every stitch made in the first row. STITCHES USED IN THE FIFTH GRADE Stitching. Stitching is so called because it looks like machine stitching. It is also known as back stitching. Stitching is done by taking a very short stitch back- ward on the upper side of the cloth and a longer stitch forward on the under side, making the stitches meet on the top, as in machine stitching. Fasten with two A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 5 small stitches. Hold the work over the left forefinger and work from right to left. Half-back stitching is the same as stitching, except that the needle is put only half way back, thus leaving a small space between the stitches. Both of these stitches may be used where strength is required, or on garments too small to be stitched easily on the machine. Hemming. A hem is a fold made by turning the edge of the cloth over twice and then sewing it down. The first fold must be very carefully turned; if that is even, there will be very little trouble with the second turning. Trim the edge of the cloth before turning the hem. Make the first turning very narrow, about one fourth of an inch, or, better still, one eighth of an inch, unless the material is very difficult to turn. Use a measure for all hems except the very narrow. Baste near the edge of the fold with uneven basting stitches. Have no knot in the thread; hold the cloth across the cushion of the left forefinger ; pointing the needle from you, insert it at the edge of the fold, one fourth of an inch from the right end, and bring it out close to the end. Draw the needle through very carefully and leave half an inch of the thread to be tucked under the edge of the hem with the point of the needle. Take up two threads of the cloth and set the needle into the edge of the hem, keeping the needle in a line with the hem and pointing to the left shoulder. Be sure that all stitches slant. To Join the Thread. If there is no end left, pick out a few stitches. With the needle draw the end under the 6 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING fold and toward the thumb. Begin with a new needle- ful, as when commencing the work, and put the needle into the last hole from which the short end came out, sewing both ends down with the next few stitches. Featherstitching. The featherstitch is an ornamen- tal stitch; it must be evenly done or it is worse than no stitch at all. This stitch consists of two parallel rows of alternating stitches, or groups of stitches, slanting toward the center. Keep the same length of stitch and the same slant. Single Featherstitching. Work toward you, holding the work over the left forefinger. Insert the needle from the under side a short distance to the right or left of the line to be followed and draw the thread through. Place the left thumb over the thread to hold it down, and on the opposite side of the center line, take up a slanting stitch; the top of the stitch is as far from the center line as the length of the stitch, and the bottom touches the center line. Draw the needle out over the thread, which will in this way form a loop of the thread from the first stitch. On the opposite side, take up another slanting stitch, the top of which is an equal distance from the center line and even with the bottom of the last stitch. Repeat for successive stitches. At the end of a thread, fasten by passing the needle down where the thread last came through the cloth, thus holding the loop from the last stitch in place. Fasten the thread on the wrong side by taking a few running stitches through one thickness of cloth. Begin a new A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 7 thread by passing the needle up through the loop from the last stitch. Double Featherstitching. This is made by doubling the number of stitches on either side, or by using groups of three stitches alternately. Be very careful that the stitches of each group are placed exactly under each other. Outline Stitch. Fasten with two back stitches, keeping the thread above the needle, — that is, to the left; then take up with the needle an eighth of an inch of cloth and bring the needle out through the hole made in starting the stitch. Be careful not to pierce the thread. Proceed in the same manner. On the wrong side the stitch should look like back stitch. Hemstitching. Several different methods of hem- stitching are used, and any one of them will prove satisfactory if well done. Showing the Work with the Hemming Stitch as it looks on the Right Side. 8 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING To draw the thread, choose a rather coarse thread the desired distance from the edge and pick it out carefully with the point of the needle. Hold this end with the right hand and draw it out carefully, pushing the gathers toward the opposite end with the left hand. When the thread breaks, hold the cloth to the light, and again pick out the end of the thread. Draw as many threads as desired. Baste the edge of the hem very carefully Showing the Hemming Stitch as it looks on the Wrong Side, and how to join the Thread. to the edge of the drawn threads. Hold the edge of the cloth over the left forefinger, as in hemming. Fasten the thread by taking two or three small stitches in the edge of the fold. Begin at the right side, as in hemming. Pointing the needle toward you, take up three or four cross threads and draw the needle through. Put the needle back, take up the same threads, and insert the needle exactly above in the fold of the hem. Continue in the same manner, drawing the thread tight, to separate the clusters of cross threads. SCHf'*: Of "% r FOOPSflPs A HANDBOOK OF ELEMElSrTA^Y SEWING 9 A Second Method. Pointing the needle toward you, and holding the thread under the left thumb, take up three or four cross threads on the needle. Draw the needle out over the thread, thus forming a loop, and tight enough to separate the cross threads. Insert the needle under the edge of the hem only and take an ordinary hemming stitch. Continue along the hem in the same manner. Seed Stitch. This stitch is used for finishing hems in an ornamental manner or where a simple, effective touch is desired. Take three short stitches (an eighth of an inch) over each other; one back stitch going forward one fourth of an inch beyond the last stitch; back one eighth of an inch; sew over twice; forward as before. Use embroidery cotton to develop this stitch. Sewing on Lace. When sewing lace to an edge, always hold the lace next to you. Lace may be sewed on straight, or it may be gathered. At the top of most laces a coarse thread may be found woven into the lace for the purpose of gathering. Before drawing up this thread, divide the lace into fourths; pin, with right sides together, at point of division. Draw up the thread, arranging the gathers evenly, and top sew to the edge with fine, even stitches. If the lace is to be put on plain, hold it loosely to the edge and top sew. Sewing Lace around a Corner, W^hen sewing lace on plain, to sew around the corner, top sew to a point as far from the corner as the width of the lace. Measure 10 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING from this point on the lace twice the width of the lace and pin to the corner. Measure an equal distance from the corner on the lace and pin to the other side. Continue top sewing from this point and leave the corner until later. When the rest is all done, run a gathering thread into the corners, arrange the gathers evenly, and top sew as usual. Sewing Lace around a Corner (Gathered). When sew- ing lace around a corner, proceed as before, with this exception: the same fullness must be allowed on the corner that is allowed on the straight edge, in addition to that required for rounding the corner without draw- ing; allow two and one half times the width of the lace instead of twice the width. Sewing Two Ends of Lace Together. If the lace has a pattern, cut it with the pattern; lay one edge over the other and buttonhole over each raw edge with fine thread, or place the right sides of the lace together and sew in a narrow seam ; lay the seam flat and buttonhole over the raw edge and at the same time down on the lace. If desired, turn a narrow fold in one piece of the lace to the right side and in the other piece to the wrong side; slip one under the other and hem down the two edges. Herringbone or Catch Stitch. " The herringbone stitch is a cross-stitch used as a finish on flannel edges or on heavy material. The stitch consists of single, alternating, running stitches, made first to the left and then to the right, from you instead of toward you as in A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 11 ordinary sewing. The thread, being carried across from one stitch to another, gives the appearance of a cross-stitch. The stitches on each side must be in straight rows, with the outer row just over the edge of the material. Point the needle toward you in making the stitch, but work from you. In catch stitching a small knot may be used, if it can be concealed. Fasten the thread by running it in and out and under the last stitch." Top Sewing. " Top sewing is used for joining two folded edges or two selvages. Hold the work between Top Sewing-Needle in Position. the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, the seam parallel with the finger. Leave one half an inch of thread after making a shallow stitch through one edge of the cloth, the needle pointing toward the chest. Lay this end of thread on top of the seam so that it may be sewed down by the next few stitches. Pointing the needle toward the chest, put it through both edges, taking up as little cloth as possible. The stitches should be slanting on the upper side and straight on the under side of the cloth. Work from right to left. To finish 12 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING the seam, sew back over the last few stitches. To join the thread, leave half an inch of the old thread and half an inch of the new thread, place both together on the seam, and sew over them as you go on in the work." Selvage edges are sewed together in making pillow and bolster cases. When one edge has become stretched and is longer than the other, baste with the long edge toward the sewer, the seam held around the forefinger of the left hand. Combination Stitch. The combination stitch con- sists of three little running stitches and a back stitch over the last running stitch. Take three running stitches on the needle and pull it through. Take up the last running stitch for the first of the next group of three stitches. This is a little stronger than the running stitch. Couching Stitch. Place a coarse thread on the line desired and sew it in place with six or seven stitches to the inch, so that the over-seam may lie at right angles to the couching thread. Use either an overcasting or a simple blanket stitch. Chain Stitch. Bring the needle out from underneath, hold the thread down with the left thumb, put the needle down again in the hole through which you brought it out, take up one fourth of an inch of the goods, and draw the needle through, over the loop of thread. This gives the first link in the chain. Put the needle down at the end of this first loop and continue as before. A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 13 Buttonholes. Cut buttonholes one inch apart and quarter of an inch from edge of fold. For practice cut buttonholes half an inch long, using buttonhole scissors if possible. Beginning at one corner, overcast to the left around the two edges, making about three stitches on each side, each stitch one sixth of an inch in depth. Place the needle down through the cloth where you began and, taking the double part of the thread in your FofJ of c/oiL BUTTOINTHOLE. right hand, bring it over the point of the needle from right to left; draw the needle out and pull the thread through, being careful that the twist forms at the edge of the cloth. Insert the needle close to the last stitch, bring it through again, and loop the thread over as be- fore. Be sure that the thread is brought toward the last stitch and then around the needle. Continue until you have finished one side; open the buttonhole 14 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING as widely as possible over your finger and work around the corner as if it were a straight edge. Make second side like first. At the end place three cross-stitches, each as long as the threads of the button- hole are deep, and buttonhole over these, bringing each stitch through the cloth. If desired, the buttonholes may be made with a bar at either end, or both ends may be rounded. Buttons. In sewing on flat buttons, insert the needle from the right side and back in order to hide the knot under the button. Place the button in position and hold a large pin or needle across the button to lengthen the stitches. Put in five or six stitches diagonally across the button and over the pin, keeping the stitches as even as possible. Place the pin in the opposite direction and take five or six stitches as before. Slip the pin out, pass the needle through the cloth only, and wind the thread around the threads five or six times between the button and the cloth. Pass the needle through the cloth and fasten securely. Two-hole Buttons. Place the buttons so that the stitches will come at right angles to the edge of the cloth, with the pin across the button. Proceed as before. Loop Buttons. Place the button in position with the loop at right angles to the edge of the cloth. Hold the button with the left hand and top sew the loop to the cloth. Pass the thread to the under side and fasten securely. Felled Seam. Place two edges of cloth right sides together, one edge being one fourth of an inch above the other, and baste. Fold the upper edge over the lower edge one fourth of an inch and baste one eighth Felled Seam. of an inch from edge. Sew on upper side just below the basting with a fine combination or back stitch. Take out the basting thread and lay the seam over so that the raw edge is covered, press carefully with the r - A«gelcs 24, CaSnis 16 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING finger exactly at the sewing of the seam, baste on the right side one sixteenth inch from seam. Hem the folded edge to the cloth underneath. French Seam. Baste the two pieces together on the right side; stitch; trim to one sixteenth of an inch; turn to the wrong side; crease firmly; baste just below the raw edges; stitch again. The finished seam should not measure over one eighth of an inch. The seam may be used on nearly all underwear and in simple wash dresses. Mitered Corners. Two hems crossing each other at right angles may be finished with either the square or the mitered corner. All hems more than half an inch in width should be mitered. Fold and crease the hem carefully. Fold the outer corner of this hem diagonally across to the inner corner of the hem and crease very firmly. Open the hem wide and cut off the corner of the cloth one fourth of an inch outside of this crease. Fold the hem as before, first being careful to turn in the upper edge of the mitered corner so that it will come exactly to the corner of the hem. Hem this diagonal portion so that no stitches will show on the right side. UTENSILS AND MATERIALS Thimbles. The thimble is worn upon the second finger of the right hand to protect the finger from the eye of the needle. It should be worn always when A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 17 sewing. If possible, learn to push the needle from the side of the thimble instead of from the top. The first thimbles were made from iron and brass, but now gold, silver, aluminum, celluloid, and steel are used. Most of the aluminum thimbles prove unsatis- factory in wearing qualities, and the brass ones dis- color the finger; for general home wear the silver thimble will prove the best. Scissors. Scissors should be in every work-box or bag. Select a good pair in the beginning, and they will last through the entire course. Any reliable hardware store will carry one or two satisfactory makes. The Boker, the Wiss, and the Keen Kutter are all good, and there are many others. Be sure that you have a pair joined just tightly enough; if too loose, the blades will slip past each other; if too tight, they will be hard to open. Keep your scissors well sharpened at all times. Shears with blades less than six inches long are usually called scissors. 1 Needles. A needle is a small, pointed instrument used for carrying thread through material. It has been used since the earliest times. The present ones are made from steel wire, but in ancient times they were made from fish-bones, ivory, and bronze. The regular sewing needle is made in several different styles called " ground-downs, " " betweens," and " sharps." The sharps are slender and long with a small eye. The betweens are slender and short with a small eye. 18 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING The ground-downs are rather short and blunt with a larger eye. The darning needles are long and sharp with a long eye. The tapestry needles are short and blunt with a long eye. The crewel needles are of medium length with a long eye. Needles vary in size from No. 1 to No. 12. No. 1 is very coarse, No. 12 is very fine. The numbers most commonly used are 7, 8, 9. A good needle must be made of good steel, so that it will not break too easily, and it must have a smooth eye that the thread may not be cut. Milward and Sons' and Roberts's are both satis- factory, and they can be purchased almost anywhere. These are both English makes. Pins. Every girl should have her own pins; select those that are of medium size with sharp points. Dull points make too large holes and will injure fine cloth. The earliest pin used was a thorn or twig from a tree; then wire pins were made, and now we have them in endless variety. Dressmakers' pins come by the box and may be bought in half-pound quantities; but the same style may be obtained in papers, and one paper should be sufficient for a pupil for at least one year. Thread. Thread is a twisted strand of silk or wool, flax or cotton. The linen and cotton thread are numbered with figures; the silk thread is designated by letters. The larger the figure, the finer the thread. A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 19 The numbers most commonly used are 60 and 70. All the sizes from 40 to 90 are needed in the home, if one is to do all kinds of work. Certain makes have proved more satisfactory than others. Two very good ones are Coats's and Clark's, and, for the single-stitch machine, Brooks's glace. Study a spool of Coats's thread, and you will see on the ends of the spool these different things. " J. and P. Coats " — which gives you the makers' name; " best six cord " — which means made up of six strands of thread; " 200 yards " — which is the number on the spool; " 60 " — which is the size of the thread, and, perhaps, the figure 12, which seems to mean the same as 60. Cloth. The process of making thread is called spinning. The process of making cloth is called weav- ing. The machine upon which cloth is made is called a loom. This, at first, was very simple, and the cloth was all made by hand. Now most of the weaving is done by machinery. Cloth consists of two sets of thread, one lengthwise, one crosswise of the goods. The lengthwise threads are the ones stretched upon the loom; these are the stronger and are known as the warp threads, or the warp. The crosswise threads are called the woof threads. All good cloth is made from silk, wool, linen, or cotton. Cotton. When cotton was first used or who were the people first to cultivate it, no one is able to tell. The 20 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING earliest history speaks of an Indian plant " which pro- duces wool of a finer and better quality than that of sheep," and we know that in India, Persia, Egypt, and China, cotton garments have been used for thousands of years. The plant seems to grow in the warm regions of both continents. When Columbus landed in South America, he found the shrub growing wild and the natives making garments and fishing-nets from the fibers. The lint was used for making beds, and in Mexico, in the six- teenth century, garments, tapestries, and bedspreads were made from the cotton. In the United States, cotton was first discovered in the section which is now the states of Louisiana and Texas. As soon as the colonists arrived in Virginia they began to plant the seeds of the cotton plant. For a number of years cotton was raised as a garden plant only, but by 1775 the Southern people began to plant it in larger quantities, and soon it was beginning to take the place of that imported. The trustees of the col- onies did not encourage the manufacture of the home- grown cotton for fear that it would interfere with the English manufacturing, but when the Revolutionary War cut off the imports of European manufacture, the Americans began to make their own cotton goods. The cotton, at first, was difficult to clean; the clean- ing was all done by hand, and the result of a whole day's work was only one pound of cotton. Often the whole family worked at it in the evening. Later, SCR OF i'l: [COMICS A HANDBOOK OF ElSlSi&TSftf SEWfi?<§ L 21 machinery came into use, and then the raising of cotton for commercial purposes increased rapidly. At first all the cotton was short staple, or upland cot- ton. After the Revolutionary War, some sea-island cotton was planted in the tide-water section of Georgia. This cotton has a longer, stronger, more silky fiber and can be spun into long, silky threads. It is used in making fine cotton goods and in lace and thread. Of all the kinds of cloth, cotton cloth is the most common and the least expensive. Bed linen, so called, window draperies, underwear, light-weight dresses, and indeed many dresses of heavier weight, may be made satisfactorily from cotton materials. The best materials for underwear are long cloth of average weight, cambric, fine muslin, and, for very fine material, nainsook of good quality. Of all these, bleached muslin is the least expensive and will wear well, but it is harder to work upon, coarser in texture, and less pleasing to wear. English long cloth of medium cost, or a good grade of cambric, make the most satisfactory garments. Batiste and nainsook are too sheer to wear well and are often too sheer to look well. If nainsook is purchased, get that made from sea- island cotton, if possible, as this is stronger and will wear longer. The makes of cotton cloth vary in dif- ferent sections of the country, and each person should learn to know those in her own town or city. I have found the Imperial and Princess makes of English long 22 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING cloth to be perfectly satisfactory for fine use; the Glasgow has given good satisfaction for common wear; the Berkeley cambric has w r orn very well, and the Imperial sea-island nainsook has been unusually good. Do not buy a cheap nainsook or long cloth, for it will be so much money thrown away. Instead, get the best grade of muslin you can afford. For long cloth to wear at all well, you must pay at least fifteen to seventeen cents per yard and for the nainsook not less than twenty-five cents. Study your muslin until you can recognize a good, soft grade. When it is at all stiff, rub between your fingers and see if it is full of starch; if it is, the starch will fall out. This grade of muslin you should avoid, for there is no body to it. Percale and domestic ginghams will prove very satisfactory for everyday wash dresses. The percale is really a firm, bleached muslin with a pattern stamped upon it. This cloth comes from thirty-two to thirty- six inches wide, costs from twelve and one half to fifteen cents per yard and, because of its width, cuts to good advantage. The price is higher than calico, but the firmer weave and greater width make it less expen- sive for many purposes. Avoid the dark blue, the so- called indigo, with the white spots, if you wish good wearing material. The white spots or stripes are made, usually, by first dyeing the cloth blue and then bleach- ing the design. By this method the strength of the cloth is eaten up by the bleaching process. A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 23 Gingham is a material with the pattern woven into the cloth. The domestic grades, those made in the United States, come in widths varying from twenty- seven to thirty-two inches. The grade that corre- sponds to percale in price is usually twenty-seven inches wide. All ginghams will cut to better advantage if the material is shrunk before making into garments. Wash in clear, warm water and dry. Colored wash goods should be tested for fast colors before buying. Take a sample home, wash with soap and warm water, and hang in the sun to dry. Wool. W 7 ool comes from the sheep. When the fleece is removed by a skillful person, it holds together and looks like the skin of an animal. It is sent to the factory thus and there sorted into the different grades of wool. The best grade of wool comes from the shoulders and sides of the sheep. The natural wool contains a greasy matter which helps to preserve it. This is washed out after the fleece is sorted. After this thorough washing, the wool is made into woolens and worsteds. Woolens are made usually from short staple wool, and the fibers are frequently crossed and mixed. The worsteds are made from the long staple wool, and the fibers usually lie parallel. The worsteds are dressier fabrics, and the patterns seem clearly woven with threads easily seen; serge is an example of this style. Woolens have threads less easily distinguished, and the 24 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING result is softer and more indistinct; flannel, tweed, and eiderdown are woolens. The simplest test for wool is that of burning. The odor of the animal fiber is like that of hair, and the fibers burn much more slowly than do the cotton ones. More ash is always formed from the wool than from the cotton. Woolen material is used for baby's underwear and where much warmth is desired. It is expensive and must remain so, because of the cost of raising the sheep. A little of the best quality of wool is raised in the United States, but the greater part of it has to be im- ported. Of this Australia sends us the larger portion. Linen. Linen is made from the fibers of the flax plant. It has been used for thousands of years, and nothing has yet been found that will give the same satisfaction for use where high luster and good wearing qualities are desired. Linen is used largely for table linen, handkerchiefs, dress material, and toweling. It absorbs moisture more readily and keeps white under constant washing more easily than cotton, hence should be used for hand and dish towels. In the rich damask weaves used in table linen, its high luster makes it not only very beautiful, but also causes it to shed the soil much more readily. Its tendency to wrinkle makes it rather unsatisfactory for common dresses, but it remains popular because of its coolness and its fine wearing qualities. Linen is always expensive and must remain so, be- A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 25 cause of the cost of raising it and preparing it for weav- ing. A small amount of flax is raised in the United States, but the greater part of it comes from abroad. Mercerized cotton is often mixed with the linen, and the result is sold for pure linen. Experts in linen tell me that the adulteration is so skillfully done that the ordinary person cannot detect it. We must depend very largely upon the honesty of our dealers; however, a few tests may be used with fair success : Linen threads break unevenly with a pointed end. Rub a linen fabric between your fingers, and the surface will feel much smoother than a cotton surface. Linen fibers lie parallel when untwisted; cotton show many directions. Burn linen threads, and they remain compact and even; cotton will spread apart. Linen washed, dried, immersed in concentrated sul- phuric acid for two minutes, then washed again and dried between filter paper, will remain practically the same. Cotton will be dissolved. Butcher's linen is a very coarse, heavy weave used for aprons and dress skirts. Linen cambric is much used for handkerchiefs. Damask is used for fine towels, tablecloths, and napkins. PART II OUTLINE OF WORK FOURTH GRADE Needle Case Materials. German canvas six inches square; D. M. C. embroidery cotton No. 3 and No. 5 in color; crewel needle No. 3; white daisy cloth; Clark's crochet cotton in white or a harmonious color. Directions. Blanket stitch around the edge of the canvas with the No. 3 D. M. C. embroidery cotton. Inside the blanket stitch place a row of uneven basting stitches; inside this a row of even basting stitches; inside these stitches run a row of running stitches. Cut the daisy cloth one fourth of an inch smaller than the canvas ; blanket stitch around the edge of this with the white crochet cotton. Place on the inner side of the canvas and tie securely through the center with the D. M. C. Cross-stitch may be used for decoration in place of the basting and running. 27 28 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING Sewing Bag Materials. Unbleached muslin twenty inches by eight inches ; Coats's crochet cotton (color dark red) ; No. 7 and No. 4 needle ; No. 60 white thread. Directions. Fold one half a hem on long sides of cloth and baste near edge with uneven basting, using the crochet cotton : keep the., half-inch part of the stitch next to you ; turn the goods and baste on the other side, keeping the half-inch stitch next to you and taking up the eighth of an inch space directly above the eighth of an inch stitch. Fold a two-inch hem at each end of the cloth ; baste in the same manner as before ; half an inch above crease the cloth carefully and baste again as before. Bring the sides evenly together. Baste with white thread, then overcast with the red cotton. When the seam is finished, re- verse and overcast in the other direction, thus giving a double overcasting stitch. Run two tapes or a twisted cord, made from the crochet cotton, through the casing of the hem ; let each cord be eighteen inches to twenty inches in length. Cord made from the Cotton. Take four times as much cotton as the final length of the cord will require; double and twist firmly together; bring the ends together again and, holding them in one hand, let them twist firmly together; tie. Run into the bag with a bodkin or tape needle so called. Two girls can do this together very easily. A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 29 Pinwheel Materials. Cardboard; cretonne or brown linen; colored crochet cotton; No. 7 sewing needle; No. 60 or 70 white thread. Directions. Cut two circles of cardboard each two and a half inches in diameter. Cut two circles of the cloth each half an inch larger than the cardboard. Using the white thread and the sewing needle, gather the cloth one fourth of an inch from the edge; place each piece of cardboard upon each piece of cloth and draw the thread up as firmly as possible; with long stitches from side to side fasten the cloth firmly in place. Place the two pieces together, raw edges inside, and sew with top-sewing stitches all around the edge. If desired, the edge may be finished with double over- casting as in the sewing bag. Baby ribbon may be added as a further decoration. Doll's Comfortable Materials. Two pieces of fine cheesecloth eight inches by ten inches; one piece of sheet wadding nine by seven; white or colored crochet cotton; white thread No. 60 or 70; sewing needle No. 7; crewel needle No. 5 ; white darning cotton or Germantown. Directions. Arrange half the wadding (which will easily split) upon each piece of the cheesecloth, leaving the edge of the cloth even upon each side. Baste in position, using the uneven basting stitch. Turn the 30 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING cheesecloth over to the edge of the wadding and baste down; place the two raw edges (that is, the sides having raw edges) together evenly, the cotton inside, and pin in place; baste close to the edge with even basting stitches. Thread the crewel needle with the crochet cotton and blanket stitch around the entire edge, as in the needle case. One inch from the side and one and one half inches from the end place the needle through the comfortable, taking up an eighth of an inch stitch; cut off the thread, leaving the ends about one and one half inches long; tie once. Fold darning cotton or Germantown four times; cut into inch lengths; place one length (fourfold) across the knot of the crochet cotton; which then tie securely with a double knot; trim off the ends evenly, leaving them about three eighths of an inch long. Repeat every one and a half inches. There should be four of these tackings, as they are called, in a row and five rows. VBS FIFTH GRADE Doll's Sunbonnet Materials. Gingham. Size twelve inches wide by seven inches long; white thread No. 70; No. 8 needle; twenty inches white tape, fourth of an inch wide. Directions. Fold the goods lengthwise, edges to- gether; from the folded edges measure across three and Doll's Sunbonnet showing Squares cut out and One Side Overcast. one half inches; cut out a three and one half inch square; overcast the cut edges; turn an eighth of an inch seam and top sew these two edges together on each 31 12 -inches 3' 3| inches 3|inches 32 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING side. Turn a fourth-inch hem around the entire bon- net; hem fine; place two small plaits at the neck line in the back and fasten with a tiny bow of baby ribbon or of white tape. Sew strings made of the tape about one inch back from the front and one inch up from the bottom. If a prettier bonnet is desired, sew a piece of narrow, fine lace which has beading, along the front edge of the bonnet and run baby ribbon through this. Then make the strings and the bow of the same ribbon. A bonnet large enough to fit the home doll may be made if desired. Laundry Bag Materials. Gingham, chambray, or lawn, the width of the material, if twenty-seven inches, or cut to that width, and twenty-seven inches long; one embroidery hoop, seven or eight inches in diameter; one yard of ribbon one inch wide to match the material; one skein D. M. C. No. 3; No. 70 thread; No. 8 needle. Directions. Cut the goods to a thread; baste a three-quarter-inch hem at each end and hem. Find the middle of one of the selvage sides; bring the bottom of the hem to this point and baste the edges together (seam on the wrong side). Bring the bottom of the other hem to this middle point and baste the other edges together. (This allows the hems to remain out so that the hoop may be run through.) Baste the other side in the same way. Stitch by hand. JTffflF ^munu A HANDBOOK OF El3MW^y SEWING 33 school. Turn bag on right side and press out the corners. Find the place where the hoop is joined together: notch on both sides of this place; place the hoop in hot water, and it will come apart; then run the hoop through the hems and tie it together again with a thread or string. Make a bow at each end of the ribbon. Sew these two bows at the ends of the bag; arrange the gathers evenly and sew a tassel to each corner of the bag. To make the Tassels. Cut the skein of D. M. C; remove two long threads; cut the remainder into fourths; fold the fourths evenly; thread one long strand into a crewel needle and tie the middle of one folded fourth with it: fold again evenly; bring the needle up from below through the knot and put back close to where it came out, leaving a loop half an inch long. Bring the needle out three eighths of an inch from the loop and wind the thread firmly around all the threads six times; slip the needle under and up through the middle of the tassel and draw firmly; cut. Holder Materials. Gingham or calico seven inches square. Two squares. No. 8 needle. No. 70 white thread, piece of narrow tape six inches long; white darning cotton. Directions. Ask the children to bring some old, soft cloth from home and use this for filling. Take three thicknesses, if thin, and cut to a six-inch square. 34 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING Place half on each square of the gingham or calico and baste the edges down to the filling, turning the opposite sides first. In one corner place the tape and baste to position. Place the two pieces of gingham or calico together ; baste firmly in place. Top sew fine, hemming down the corner where the tape comes. Find the center and tie the darning cotton, using four strands. Repeat halfway between the center and each corner. Doily Materials. Natural colored linen six inches square; Coats's crochet cotton in a soft brown shade; No. 5 crewel needle. Directions. With a pencil mark a circle on the linen three and a half inches in diameter; one eighth of an inch inside mark a second circle lightly in pencil. Outline the two circles in running stitch. Scallop stitch over these with the brown cotton, being careful that the needle goes in and comes out exactly on the line. Fringe to this scalloped edge and trim the fringe to one inch. Pincushion Top Materials. Scrim eight inches by six and one half; crochet cotton or D. M. C. No. 8; colors, pale blue and yellow; crewel needles No. 5; sewing needles No. 8, A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 35 Directions. Turn a half-inch hem on all four sides of the scrim. (Be sure to turn the opposite sides first.) Baste with even basting stitches. On the right side outline stitch the hem, being careful to keep on the edge of the hem. Find the middle of the scrim, and mark with a pencil. Measure out, making a rectangle half an inch wide by one inch long, the longer side of the rectangle parallel with the longer side of the scrim. Half an inch out from the edge of the shorter side of the rectangle bring the crewel needle threaded with the cotton up from the wrong side, pass over one thread and take a half-inch stitch on the wrong side of the scrim, bring the needle through the scrim and take an inch stitch on the right side, pass the needle under half an inch on the wrong side, and bring again to the right; pass over one thread and go back in the same manner. Continue in this way until the rectangle is covered with these long threads. Threading the needle with the other color of embroider} 7 or crochet cotton, bring it up at right angles with the long threads and half an inch from the edge of them and take one tiny stitch ; pass over half an inch on the wrong side, bring the needle through to the right, and weave in and out, over and under the long threads; then pass the needle into the scrim, bring it out on the wrong side, take a half-inch stitch, pass over two threads, and go back in the same manner; continue until the entire space has been woven over. Be careful in weaving the second time to pass over the threads that you passed 36 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING under the first time. Fasten with two small stitches on the wrong side. Over the tiny stitches that you made half an inch beyond the weaving, make three rows of outline stitch, using the two colors of em- broidery cotton. Make a cushion to fit this cover, or bring a cushion from home and make the cover to fit it. Stocking Darning Bring stockings from home. Place a darning-ball or a piece of firm cardboard under the hole to be darned. Match the darning cotton to the color of the stocking. If the stocking is fine, use one strand of the cotton; if coarse, use two strands. On a line with the center of the hole, and half an inch from its edge, place the needle in the cloth and run with very fine stitches to the edge of the hole. Pass the needle across the hole, under the raw edge on the opposite side, and make one fourth of an inch of fine running stitches. Start back close to this row and repeat the same thing, being careful that you pass over the raw edge that you passed under before. Continue until half the hole is covered and then run the fine stitches one fourth of an inch beyond into the stocking. This Stocking Darning. makes the darn firmer and less likely to pull out. Do the other half in the same manner. When the warp threads are all in, begin in the middle with the woof threads. Use fine running stitches to the edge of the hole as before. Then weave under and over as in the cushion-top, keeping the stitches near enough to make a firm, close weave. Fasten as with the warp threads by running into the stocking one fourth of an inch. Use firm brown paper if possible; if nothing else is available, buy some from the grocer. Begin in the upper, right-hand corner. Down means toward the bottom of the paper. Out means toward the left-hand side of the paper. Up means from the bottom toward the top of the paper. Make all measurements very carefully. Yardsticks will be of great assistance if they can be obtained. Be very careful when making the free- hand curves. Draft. Measure down on straight edge of paper 17 inches and mark 1 at top and 2 at bottom. Directions for Drafting Sewing Apron Down from 1 measure 1 inch and mark Out " " " 6 inches " 3 4 5 38 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING Connect 4 and 8 with a straight line. Down from 4 on line 4-8 mea sure 8J inches and mark 9 Up from 8 on line 4-8 " 6 " " " 10 Connect 5 and 1, 6 and 1, 7 and 1, 8 and 1, 10 and 1, by straight lines. Connect 3 and 4 by a down curve. Draft of Sewing Apron. Measure up on line 6-1 J inch and mark . . 11 " " " 7-1 2J inches " " . . 12 " " " 8-1 5 " " " . . 13 " " " 10-1 1 inch " " . . 14 Draw a curved line from 9 through 14, 13, 12, 11, to 5. Cut on the curved line 3-4, then down through 4, 9, 14, 13, 12, 11, 5 to 2. If a larger apron is desired, make the following changes when drafting the pattern. A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 39 Lengthen the line 1-2 4 inches and mark . . . A " " 4-8 4J " " " . . . B Connect A and B with a straight line. Lengthen lines 1-5, 1-6, and 1-7 to the line A-B. Mark these lines ha, 6a, and 7a. Measure up from ha J inch and mark ... C " " Qa H inches " " . . . D u u 7a4 j <c « « E (( u (( g 2i << << << p Draw a downward curve from 10 through F, E, D, C, to A. When drafting for a stout girl, measure out five inches instead of six at the top of the draft and carry the line 1-2 down one inch lower, as shown in the dotted lines in the illustration. Cut on the dotted lines. To Cut the Apron. Fold the goods lengthwise, making the fold just wide enough to fit the widest part of the pattern. Be sure that the warp threads are perfectly straight. Pin the pattern with the straight edge exactly on the fold and the top to the edge of the goods. Pin firmly along the edges. Cut exactly to the pattern. Leave the fold uncut. Remove the pattern, open the cloth, and the apron is ready to be made. Materials. Three fourths of a yard of lawn, dimity, or batiste. One and three fourths or two yards of narrow lace. (The imitation Armenian is the most satisfactory.) One skein of embroidery cotton, 40 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING O. N. T. or D. M. C, No. 25, one strand. Number 70 white thread. Sewing needles, about Nos. 5 and 8. Directions. Turn a very narrow hem, three six- teenths of an inch, all around the apron. Baste with even basting stitches. With the embroidery cotton, featherstitch over this hem. (Be sure that this feather- stitching is very fine, for it must take the place of the usual hemming.) Top sew the lace around the finished edge, holding the lace next to you and taking very fine, close stitches. Cut a piece of cloth lengthwise, making it two inches wide and two inches longer than the waist measure taken loosely. Find the middle of the apron at the top and mark with a pin; find the middle of the band ; pin the middle of the apron to the middle of the band, keeping the band on the right side of the apron. Baste with even basting stitches. Stitch. Turn the band over, crease a fourth of an inch fold on the edge, and baste this down firmly on the wrong side just over the stitching, and hem. Top sew the edges that extend beyond the apron. A button and buttonhole may be used to finish it, if the pupils are able to make them well. SIXTH GRADE Book Marker Materials. Linen-colored chanibray or gingham; red or brown ribbon; brown twist, red D. M. C. em- broidery or red tambo cotton; No. 7 needle; No. 5 crewel needle; linen-colored thread. Directions. Cut linen about three inches by six inches. Fold in one eighth of an inch on all sides. Fold the edges together lengthwise and baste with even basting stitches. Top sew fine, using linen- colored thread. One inch from the top cut a button- hole across the marker, in the center, three fourths of an inch long. Make a buttonhole, following the directions given, using either the twist or the cotton. Half an inch below cut another buttonhole parallel, and work as before. One inch from the bottom cut another but- tonhole and work in the same way. Half an inch above, cut and make one more. Through these buttonholes run twelve inches of half-inch ribbon the same color that the buttonholes are worked in. 41 42 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING Cooking Apron. Medium Size Draft. Find waist measure and skirt length. Mark upper, right-hand corner of paper .... 1 Out from 1 measure one third of waist measure and mark 2 Down from 1 measure 2 inches and mark ... 3 Connect 2 and 3 with a down curved line. Cooking Afron. Down from 3 measure skirt length and mark . . 4 Out " 4 " 14 inches " " . . 5 " on line 4-5 measure 4 inches " " . . 6 " from 6 measure 3 inches and mark .... 7 " "7 " 2 " " " Q A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 43 Out from 8 measure 3 inches and mark .... 9 Connect 2 and 5 by a straight line. Up from 5 on line 2-5 measure 4 inches and mark 10 Find one third of line 2-5, and add 5 inches to this length. Measure down this length from 2 on line 2-5 and mark 11 Connect 1 and 7 by a straight line. Do the same with 1 and 8, 1 and 9, 1 and 5, 1 and 10. Up from 7 on line 1-7 measure J inch and mark 12 8 " " 1-8 " 2 inches " " 9 " " 1-9 t( g3. (( a i( 5 " 1-5 (C 4 3 <( <c (( 10 " " 1-10 IC f> (C it {{ Draw a free-hand curve from 11 through 16, 15, 14, 13, 12, to 6. Draft for the Bib. Mark upper, right-hand corner 1 Down from 1 measure 21 J inches and mark ... 2 Out " 1 " 9 " * " . . . 3 " " 2 " 9 " " "... 4 Up from 2 on line 1-2 measure 3 inches and mark 5 " " " " " " " 6 " " " 6 " " " " " " " 9 " <f " 7 " " " " " " " 10| " " " 8 " " " " " " " 12 " " " 9 " " " " " " " 14 " <f " 10 " " " <c " " " 16 " " " 11 il (( (C 11 (( (( (( -I O (( (( a -jo 44 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING Up from 2 on line 8-9 measure 20 inches and mark 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 Draw a curving line from 28 through 26, 24, 22, 21, 19, to 8. Draw a second curving line from 28 through 27, 25, 23, 20, 18, 17, 16, 15, 14. Cut on the line 2-14, and then on the curving lines,, 8-28, 14-28. If a longer bib is needed, lengthen at the bottom from one to two inches. Directions for Cutting the Aprons. Use per- cale that is thirty-six inches wide and has a small figure on a white ground. (The directions show you how to cut two aprons at the same time.) Fold the Out from 2 measure 4J " " 5 ' 5i " " 6 ' 7 " " 7 ' " " 8 ' ' 8 ' si " " 9 ' < 21 " " 9 ' < 8| f 4J " " 11 ' 4} " " 11 ' 4 8| " " 12 ( 3J ( 8 „ u 13 3 " " 13 4 ' 7 " " 1 ' 4 1 ^2 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 45 material lengthwise. Measure off sufficient for the bibs. Fold the remainder crosswise (retaining the lengthwise fold). Cut four pieces for the two bands, two inches wide and two inches longer than the waist measure taken loosely, lengthwise of the cloth along the selvage edge. Pin the apron pattern upon the folded goods, straight edge upon fold of goods. Cut upon the curving portion as in the sewing apron. Pin the pattern for the bib on the remaining portion, straight edge on fold and cut. It will take two yards of this wide ma- terial to make the small apron. If a pupil is larger, two and three fourths yards will be required. Directions for Making the Apron. Bind the apron with bias binding, or finish with a fancy tape. Place one band as in the sewing apron, but place the other on the wrong side in a similar manner; baste with even basting and stitch. The top of this will be open and unfinished. Find the middle of the band on the right side; pin the middle of the bib at the bottom to the middle of the band, right sides together; baste together and stitch. Turn in the remaining raw edges one fourth of an inch, baste to- gether and stitch. Finish the band with a button and buttonhole or with loops and buttons. Fasten the bib in the same way. If a buttonhole is desired, strengthen the end of the bib with an extra thickness of cloth carried back one and a half inches from the end. See that the threads of the cloth match in doing this, 46 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING Cross-stitch Bag Materials. Gingham, linen, pongee, scrim, or crepe; one third yard for lining, one fourth yard for top; D. M. C. No. 5, or D. M. C. six strand, No. 25; :;hin ;;. .. Win. 7%m Cross Stitch Design Diagram of Cross-stitch Bag. three skeins of harmonizing color; crewel needles No. 4 or No. 5; No. 8 needle; No. 70 thread. Directions. If the bag is to be made of plain ging- ham and the design is to be worked on gingham having an eighth-inch check, measure and cut a piece twenty inches crosswise of the plain gingham and seven and one A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 47 half inches on the selvage. Make the checked gingham the width the design requires and twenty inches long. Baste the checked gingham upon the plain at such a distance from top as to have the pattern come about two inches from lower edges. Work out a design pre- viously made in the drawing department. Cut the lining exactly the same width and length as the outside; from the remainder cut a piece three inches long by five and a half inches wide; turn in the edges a fourth of an inch ; place this evenly on one side of the lining and fasten with firm couching stitches, using the D. M. C; use three strands to couch over. For position see diagram given. Divide this piece into two pockets with the couching. Join the lining and the outside with the machine stitching, raw edges together, first the top and then the sides. Cut from tag board or cardboard two circles three and a half inches in diameter. (If cardboard is used, four thicknesses will be required.) Cover each piece of cardboard with the cloth, cutting the covering one inch larger than the board. Place these circular pieces together, raw edges inside, and baste. Gather the bottom of the bag and top sew on to the circular pieces on the inside of the bag. Make a half-inch casing one inch from the top of the bag by running two rows of fine combination stitch half an inch apart. Make two cords from the D. M. C. and run them into the casing. If D. M. C. No. 25 is used, take three strands for cross-stitching, and six strands for cord. 48 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING Work Apron Materials. Chambray, gingham, or dark calico. Bias binding No. 4 or No. 5 A simple Butterick or Ladies Home Journal pattern having no sleeves, a round neck, and shoulder and under-arm seams only. Directions. Select the pattern and then buy the amount of goods required. Cut by pattern, allowing a two-inch seam. Make a French seam at all seams. Finish neck and armhole with the bias binding or facing. Make a one-inch hem up the back and a two-inch hem at the bottom. If a more decorative apron is desired, a simple embroidery stitch may be used on the hems. Seed stitch, outline stitch, or chain stitch would be satisfactory. If the top is thus finished, let the hem be done by hand. A still daintier apron may be made from white dimity or a fine, delicate gingham or batiste. Princess Slip Materials. Ladies Home Journal pattern No. 8091 or any style that is simple and unfitted. Long cloth of good grade, from two and one half yards to three yards, according to the size of the girl. White thread No. 70 and No. 90. Needles No. 8 and No. 9. White D. M. C. or O. N. T. No. 25. Narrow lace edge at neck and sleeves, either hand or machine made. For flounce one and one third times the width of skirt, — long cloth or embroidery. A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 49 Directions. Cut according to pattern. Finish with French seams. Turn an eighth-inch hem at neck; one-inch hems at back. Set in sleeve with French seam, and finish with an eighth-inch hem. Divide the flounce into fourths; use a separate thread to gather each fourth and knot the thread at both ends. (Use the coarser thread.) Place one row T of gathers an eighth of an inch from the edge of the goods, the second row an eighth of an inch below the first. Be careful that the second row T of stitches is exactly under the first. Draw each fourth up as close as possible and pull the gathers gently until they are even and smooth. For directions for placket, see under " Skirt." Carry the placket nine inches below the normal waist line. Divide the slip in fourths at the bottom. Bring the edge of the flounce to the edge of the slip wrong sides together. Pin at the divisions in fourths. Arrange the gathers evenly and baste to slip with even basting between the rows of gathers. Stitch. Place the lower edge of the bias fold exactly over the lower row of gathering; baste with even basting; baste the upper side of bias fold down. Stitch both sides close to the edge. The edge of the flounce, if made of the goods, may be just a plain hem with a narrow lace trimming, or it may be finished with a simple decorative stitch such as feather, chain, or seed stitch. Let the same stitch be used at neck and sleeves. Finish the back with buttons and buttonholes. 50 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING One-piece Dress Materials. Gingham or percale; preferably ging- ham, because it is softer to work upon. Choose a very simple pattern from a Butterick fashion book and give individuality by the style of trimming. Provide thread, needles, pins, buttons, as for the princess slip. Use colored 0. N. T. or D. M. C. No. 5 or the six strand No. 25 to harmonize with the material. Directions. Cut according to directions on pattern. Finish with French seams. If sleeves are set in, bind with bias folds. Try on before sewing in sleeves or turning hem. If made up without shrinking, allow one to two inches for shrinking. Finish with buttons and buttonholes like the princess slip. If a round neck is desired, face on right side with a narrow fold of the goods and finish with some simple embroidery stitch. Dusting Cap Draft for Cap. Draw a rectangle eight inches by thirteen inches. Mark the corners in order 1, 2, 3, 4. Divide the long sides into halves. Mark the point between 1 and 2, 5 and the one between 3 and 4, 6. Draft for Cap. A HANDBOOK OF EI^ENTARY SEWING 51 Draw a line diagonally from corner 4 to point 5. " From 4 on this line 4-5 measure three inches and mark 7. Straight piece Dusting Cap. Draw a curved line from corner 1 to point 6, passing through the diagonal 4-5 at 7. Starting at 1, cut through the curving line to 7, from 7 through 6 down to 3, from 3 across to 2, from 2 back to 1. Write on the long straight edge the words " Place on lengthwise fold." Materials for Cap. One piece of gingham or crepe fourteen inches long by sixteen inches wide. One piece of gingham or crepe twenty inches long by five inches wide. WTiite or colored D. M. C. No. 5 or No. 8. No. 8 needle, No. 5 crewel needle, No. 70 white thread. 52 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING Directions. Fold the larger piece of gingham so that it will be eight inches wide by fourteen inches long. Place the long straight edge of the pattern on this fold; pin firmly; cut to the pattern around the curving edge. Leave the fold uncut. Place two rows of gathers along the curving edge and down the straight sides. On the lower edge turn a half-inch hem and hem fine. On the ends and down one long side of the piece that is twenty inches long, place a half-inch hem. Featherstitch with the em- broidery cotton. Join the crown and this with a French seam, being careful that the featherstitching is on the outside of the cap and that the gathers are evenly distributed. Make an eyelet in the middle of the hem at the back of the cap; run the tape in from the seams on the sides, sewing it on firmly, and tie it at the eyelet. SCHC^L OF I'lEE ECONOMICS STATE NORMAL SCHOOL SEVENTH AND EIGHTH GRADES In the seventh and eighth grades the pupils may make a full set of underwear for themselves and finish with a simple wash dress. Every article made should have a touch of hand decoration, and each one should be a little more difficult than the preceding one. The patterns for the dress and for the combination suit may be selected according to the prevailing style. The skirt may be drafted, and the nightdress decoration should be easily worked on the cloth itself. Make a plain kimono style. Buy twice the length of cloth, measuring from the neck, at the shoulder, to the floor, allowing two inches extra for hem and shrinkage. 53 SUPPLEMENTARY WORK Small Size Skirt for Doll Materials. Two pieces of flannel or outing flannel nine inches long by seven and one half inches wide. White sewing silk, pink or white twist, white thread No. 60, No. 8 needle, two pieces of tape six inches long by one fourth of an inch wide. Directions. Sew the two breadths of flannel to- gether with combination stitch, one edge overlapping the other by an eighth of an inch. Make seam a little less than one fourth of an inch deep. Turn longer edge over flat and cross or catch stitch with fine, close stitch. Cut down the middle of one breadth two and one half inches. From the right-hand side of the skirt turn over a half-inch hem. From the left-hand side turn over an eighth-inch hem. Catch stitch with fine, close stitch. At the bottom of this placket fold the half-inch hem over flat and catch stitch or place two rows of fine stitching across. Turn an inch hem at bottom; baste and catch stitch. One fourth of an inch from top, double gather fine, each half by itself. Fold band lengthwise and place 54 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 55 center to the center of the skirt at the top. Arrange the gathers evenly and baste. Stitch just below gather- ing thread. Fold over one fourth of an inch of the band, then turn down over the gathers and baste. Hem fine. Insert the tape one fourth of an inch into the ends of the band and hem down on both sides. Finish the ends of tape with a fourth-inch hem. Around the upper edge of the hem, place a row of featherstitching worked in twist. Lawn Apron. Doll's Size Materials. White lawn or muslin five inches long by seven inches wide; white thread No. 70; No. 9 needle. Directions. Turn an eighth-inch hem on sides and a half-inch hem on bottom of apron; hem. Place a row of fine running stitches one eighth inch from top of cloth; then one eighth inch below. Mark the middle of top with a cross stitch. Straighten the gathers carefully by gently pulling them while on the needle or by pushing them along the thread and under the thumb and finger. Cut a band one and one half inches wide and seven inches long. Fold evenly and pin the middle of the band to the middle of the gathers on the right side of the apron. Carry the gathers to within two inches of the end of the band; baste with even basting and stitch on the gathers. 56 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING Fold over and baste down over the stitching, turning in the raw edge one fourth inch. Hem across the apron and top sew the ends. This apron may be trimmed with lace or it may be hemstitched, as the pupil may desire. Magazine Cover Materials. Brown linen, half-inch binding ribbon, brown thread, No. 8 needle. Directions. Cut the size desired; draw threads until even. Miter the corners; making the hem about two inches wide. Find the center of the folded sides and measure out, on the edge of the hem, one half to one inch from this center (according to the thickness of the magazine). Cut to the center line, leav- ing one fourth inch from the folded edge uncut. Bind with the ribbon. Decorate with a stenciled design or with a bit of simple Inside of Magazine Cover. embroidery. Laundry Bag Materials. Fine checked gingham (blue and white) thirty inches long and eleven or twelve inches A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 57 wide. No. 70 white thread. Peri Lusta embroidery cotton. Size D. Color, shade 311. Directions. Overcast long sides. Fold the ends over two and three fourths inches. Stitch these over- cast edges together to within three fourths inch of bottom of folded end; turn this seam under and finish with a two and one half inch hem. One half inch above edge of hem place a row of fine running stitches. Laundry Bag. About six inches down from the hem work a cross- stitch design, using the Peri Lusta cotton. (Allow each child to work from her own original design, placing this design on one or both sides of the bag.) Bring the sides together and baste from hem to fold of cloth: stitch, making a fourth inch seam. 58 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING Run double cords or ribbons through the half-inch openings in the hem. Rubber Bag Materials. Half a yard of chambray, gingham, or linen. Directions. Cut a strip of cloth fifteen inches by twelve and one half inches, also cut from the same material two circles, each having a diameter of four inches. Upon the two twelve and one half inch ends of the strip make a fourth-inch fold, both folds turning upon Rubber Bag showing Featherstttching with Needle in POSITION. the wrong side of the cloth. Turn again, forming an inch hem. Baste. Hem one of the sides thus folded. Featherstitch the other upon the right side of the material. Fold the featherstitched side of the hem over the other and pin in place at both ends, making an inch lap. Take one of the circles and arrange at one end of bag in such a way that the seam will come inside A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENT A&Y §Svrt8fc 59 the bag. Pin carefully and baste a fourth-inch seam; backstitch seam; trim and overcast. Arrange the second circle at the other end of bag, and baste and sew in the same way. Finish ends of bag by featherstitching the circles on the right side a fourth of an inch from circumference. If desired, the word " Rubbers " may be stamped and outlined upon the upper part of bag. If lettering is to be done, it must be stamped before bag is made. Fasten bag with three hooks and eyes placed at intervals of three inches. The hooks should be placed on the under and further edge of featherstitched hem and sewed on by means of buttonhole stitches worked around the wider base of the hook, then securely fastened either at front end of hook, or under the " hump/' by means of four straight stitches. The straight metal eyes may be used and placed at corre- sponding intervals on the upper side of under hem. For featherstitching, D. M. C. embroidery cotton (No. 20) may be used. Sewing Case Materials. Outing flannel or wool flannel eight and one half inches by five and one half inches, blue outing flannel or ribbon five inches by twelve inches, two small pieces of flannel two inches by three inches, colored crochet cotton or D. M. C, blue and yellow or white ; crewel needles; three fourths yard of half -inch ribbon. 60 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING Directions. Turn a fourth-inch fold around the flannel or white daisy cloth; catch stitch this with the crochet cotton. Measure up from one end four inches, and run in three squares of darning in contrasting color. Fold back two inches at the same end and baste; top sew the ends, catch stitch through the center to make two small pockets; blanket stitch around three sides of the small pieces; arrange them evenly half an inch from the other end and blanket stitch them firmly in place. If ribbon is used, arrange case evenly on the ribbon and pin in position; turn half-inch hems at the ends of ribbon and catch stitch; place this on the narrow ribbon evenly and catch stitch together. If the blue daisy cloth is used, blanket stitch around the edge, then fasten to the inner piece and place the whole upon the narrow ribbon (which may be blue or white) and fasten as in the earlier case. Sewing Apron Materials. One and one half yards of lawn, dimity, or organdie; wash embroidery silk or embroidery cotton (D. M. C. No. 20, or Peri Lusta E. fine). No. 70 white thread. Directions. Cut apron according to pattern given in illustration. Cut band two inches wide and two inches longer than waist measure. If strings are de- sired, cut band width of apron and cut the strings twenty-four inches long by three and one half wide. Gather a ruffle from middle to ends; place first row A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 61 one eighth of an inch from top and the second one eighth of an inch below. Fit ruffle to bottom of front gore ; baste with even basting between the rows of gathers, then sew with combination stitch below the basting. Flace this seam on the right side. Turn top of pocket forming an eighth of an inch hem: baste and feather- stitch. Turn one eighth on the bottom, baste evenly over the top of the ruffle, and featherstitch. Find middle of pocket, crease evenly, and featherstitch to apron. Pattern foe Apeon, one eighth size. Baste the side gores to the front, arranging for French seams; finish with eighth-inch seams, using the com- bination stitch. Turn an eighth-inch hem around sides and bottom 62 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING of apron, baste with even basting; featherstitch. Place middle of band to middle of apron on the right side; baste to apron, making a fourth-inch seam; stitch. Towel Materials. Huckaback linen or cotton. D. M. C. No. 12-16. Directions. Even ends of goods by a thread. Prepare a one and one half inch hem and draw four threads. Hemstitch. Two inches above the hem embroider the monogram or initials. To Embroider the Initials. Select a simple style of letter and transfer to the towel by tracing over transfer paper. (This method is the simplest and, where only a very little is to be done, may be used satisfactorily.) Pad the letter by rilling the space with rows of running stitches done with the four-fold darning cotton. Chain stitch may be used, but the result is less even. The embroidery stitch used is the simplest form of satin stitch. Where the initial runs parallel with the threads of the cloth, make over and over stitches close together. Let the needle enter the cloth exactly at one edge of the pattern and come out exactly at the other. You must have a perfectly even edge if the result is to be good. As the pattern curves, slant the stitches, being careful that the stitches are close together so that no padding shows. A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 63 Towel with Swedish Weaving Materials. One yard or three fourths of a yard of linen toweling, huck preferred. Two or more skeins of No. 8, D. M. C. or O. N. T. to correspond in number. No. 50 white thread. No. 5 crewel needles and No. 8 sewing needles. Directions. Measure in three and one fourth inches at each end and draw threads until you have about one inch of space drawn. Turn in one fourth of an inch at the edge, bring this to the edge of the drawn space, and baste with even basting. Hemstitch, taking up about five threads each time. Use the No. 50 thread for this work. With the embroidery cotton, begin and weave in and out through the drawn space, taking up the same number of threads that were used in hemstitching and passing over the same number. The illustration (see Frontispiece) gives one simple pattern easily worked out. If desired, one end of the towel may be finished with plain hemstitching and the other with the weaving. Damask Hemming Materials. White linen six or six and one half inches square. No. 9 needle. No. 70 white thread. Directions. Draw threads in the linen, making as large a square as possible. On opposite sides turn and baste an eighth-inch hem. Holding the wrong side toward you, fold and crease the cloth back, so as to 64 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING make it even with the first fold of the hem. Top sew very fine. Turn hems on two remaining sides, baste, top sew ends, and then sides as before. Finish with lace, — torchon or any variety that is suitable to the linen; follow the directions given for sewing on of lace. Doily Materials. Heavy white linen. No. 7 needle. Embroidery cotton No. 25, 6 strand, white. Directions. With a spool, mark simple scallops around the linen, making it the size desired. Pad slightly with long outline stitches, using white darning cotton. Blanket stitch over these stitches, but keep the stitches close together and the edges perfectly even. When finished, trim the cloth to the edge of the em- broidery and then buttonhole around the entire edge with ordinary cotton thread. This buttonholing will keep the linen from fraying and give a smoother edge. Corset Cover Materials. One yard of cambric, dimity, or long cloth. Two and three fourths yards of lace. One and three fourths yards of beading. D. M. C. or O. N. T. No. 25, single strand, white. No. 70 white thread. Nos. 8 and 9 needles. Directions. Select a pattern having shoulder and under-arm seams. Make flat fell seams. Turn an eight-inch hem around the top. Turn one-inch hems seirioF : ECONOMICS STATE NORMAL L SCHOOL A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 65 down the front. Face armholes with fourth-inch fac- ings. Gather the bottom from about two inches in front of the under-arm seam to front hem, using tw T o rows of gathers, the first one eighth of an inch from the bottom, the second one eighth of an inch above the first. Finish the bottom with a band three fourths of an inch wide when finished. (This band should be torn two inches wide and two inches longer than the waist measure taken loosely.) Featherstitch the top and the front hems with the embroidery cotton. Finish with the lace and beading, and run lingerie tape into the beading, or crochet a tiny cord and run this through. If preferred, seed stitch or outline stitch may be sub- stituted for the featherstitching. Materials. One and one half yards of fine cheese- cloth, silkolene, or batiste; wash embroidery silk to match material. No. 70 thread. One half yard nar- row ribbon to match goods. Directions. Even ends by a thread. Fold one selvage edge together evenly. Baste; find the middle of this seam, measure out from the center along the seam one and one half inches. From this point sew to edge with the combination stitch, making an eighth- inch seam. Bind the open part with the ribbon and featherstitch along the edge of the ribbon. If wished, more ribbon may be used and a rosette or bow placed at one side or in the middle. Waist Protector 66 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING Turn a fourth-inch hem down the open side and a one-inch hem at the bottom. Baste with even basting and featherstitch along the edge of the hem. Use either single or double featherstitching. Table Cover or Table Runner Materials. Linen or gingham. One yard or one and one fourth yards. Linen-colored thread. Directions. If square cover is desired, use one yard of thirty-six inch linen (natural color) or a square of the narrower kind. Finish with a two-inch hem, making mitered corners. Place a stenciled design at the corner inside the hem, working out the design as part of the regular art work. To make a runner, use one and one fourth yards of linen or linen-colored gingham ; finish with one and one half inch hems on the sides and a three-inch hem at the bottom; miter the corners as before. Place stenciled design above the three-inch hems. If desired, both of these covers may be hemstitched. Kimono Materials. Japanese crepe or ripplette. Simple, narrow lace not over one inch in width. Embroidery cotton to harmonize with the materials. A simple pattern for a short kimono. White thread No. 70. Sewing needles No. 8. Crewel needle No. 6. Directions. Buy the pattern first. Buy the amount of material required by the pattern, and cut care- SCn OF "%l ECONDIIK STATE NORMAL SCHOOL A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 67 fully according to directions. Finish with French seams. Turn an eighth-inch hem around the kimono; baste with even basting stitches; featherstitch or chain stitch with the embroidery cotton. Top sew the lace on, giving just a little fullness where needed. Fasten with rosettes of the material. Adapt the weight of the lace to the material used; a much heavier variety will be needed for the crepe than for the ripplette. German Valen- ciennes will prove satisfactory for the ripplette, but a light-weight Cluny will be better for the heavier crepe. Fancy Apron Pattern for Apron. Enlarge the one given eight times. Materials. Use fine lawn or nainsook. One yard of material is required. Three and one half yards of lace; one and one half yards of insertion; No. 9 needle; No. 90 thread. Directions. Turn a very narrow hem on the sides and bottom of each gore of the apron. Hem fine. Put the gores together with the insertion, basting care- fully, and then top sewing very fine. Carry the inser- tion around the top of the center gore, for this gives the bib of the apron. Cut two bands, each eight inches long and one and one half inches wide. Cut the strings three inches wide and twenty-four inches long. Hem the long sides and one end. Gather the other end and sew neatly into the ends of the bands. Sew the bands on to the side gores in the usual way, top sewing the 68 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING Fancy Apron, one-eighth size. ends to the insertion and top sewing the portion that extends beyond the gores. Top sew the lace around the entire apron, following the general direc- tions for sew- ing on lace. Place lace on the ends of the strings only. Underskirt Take the waist and skirt measure of each girl and add five inches to the skirt length. Pattern of Skirt. Place paper on desk. Make measurements out and down from upper corner of paper. Directions. Front gore. Out from corner measure 1-6 of waist measure and mark A A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING 69 Down from corner on outer edge of paper measure \ inch and mark . B Down from B, measure skirt length plus 5 inches and mark C Out from C, measure 12 inches and mark . . . D Connect A and D with a straight line. Pattern foe Front and Side Gore of Skirt. Down from A on this straight line measure skirt length plus 5 inches and mark E Connect A and B with a free-hand curve. Connect C and E with a free-hand curve. Cut on curve A and B. Straight line A and E and curve E and C« 70 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING Mark straight edge of length of paper with these words: " Place on lengthwise fold of cloth." Mark " half front gore." Side gore. Measure out from corner \ waist measure and mark Measure down from corner \ of an inch and mark Measure down from B skirt length plus 5 inches and mark Measure out from C 15 inches and mark . . . Connect A and D with a straight line. Measure from A down this straight line skirt length plus 5 inches and mark Connect C and E with a free-hand curve. Connect A and B with a free-hand curve. Cut on curves and line A-D. Notch gored side twice and mark " side gore." Notch straight edge once. Back Breadth. Draft as you did the side breadth but take one third of waist measure at top and eighteen inches at the bottom. Materials for Skirt. Long cloth, cambric, or muslin; three lengths should be sufficient, if you add to each the extra five inches. The flounce may be of the cloth or of edging. Allow one third more than the width of the skirt. No. 70 white thread; No. 8 needles. If desired make the skirt of flannel, or flannelette, or outing flannel. In this case buy more material, as the outing flannel is not so wide. A B C D SCHCLOFtlKECONBiCS A HANDBOOK OI«mm^N1 r i^^ c Si^^G 71 Note. If made of flannel, finish the seams with a flat fell and simply featherstitch around the edge of the hem. Make the placket and also the band of long cloth. Directions for Cutting the Underskirt. Fold one piece lengthwise. On this fold place the straight edge of the front gore. Pin securely in place and cut, leaving the fold untouched. On the straight selvage edge, place the straight side of the side gore. Pin in place and cut. Turn upside down and fit in the other side. Cut. Arrange the back breadths in the same way and pin and cut. Lay the entire pattern on and try it before cutting any, so as to use the cloth to the best advantage. Directions for Making. Finish with French seams. Make a continuous placket. Finish the top with a band one inch wide when made. Place a button and buttonhole in the ends. Turn an inch and one half hem. For the flounce see directions for princess slip. To Make the Placket. Leave nine inches at the top of the back seam unfinished. Cut a lengthwise strip of cloth eighteen inches long by two and one half inches wide. Beginning at the top, on the right side, place the placket strip against the skirt, edge to edge, and baste, one eighth inch from the edge, with even basting stitches; when at the bottom of the opening, turn and baste up the other side. Stitch just below the basting. Turn one fourth inch on the raw edge; crease; fold over the first stitching and pin in place. 72 A HANDBOOK OF ELEMENTARY SEWING Baste. Hem down the left-hand side and half an inch up the right-hand side. Crease this side firmly. Remove the basting. Cut out the under portion to within a fourth of an inch of the crease. Turn the remaining portion of the cloth to the wrong side, make the edge even with the seam, so that none shows on the right side, baste and sew like any hem. At the bottom of the hem, place two rows of stitching an eighth of an inch apart, just the width of the hem. This strengthens the placket at the bottom. THE END University of California Library Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. Phone 310/8: JUL 2 6 2005 5-S188 6 part UCLA-Young Research Library TT710 .F59h V L 009 523 176 7 i PLEA*? DO NOT REMOVE THIS BOOK CARD ^UlBRARYr> University Research Library