TS 1449 INITED STATES ILK ONDITIONING 472-474 BROOME ST., NEW YORK CONDITIONING 19O8 THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES THIS PHOTOGRAPH, OF WHICH A REDUCED COPY APPEARS ON THE COVER, SHOWS A CORTI SYSTEM CONDITIONING OVEN, IN OPERATION AT THE LABORATORY OF THE U. S. SILK CONDITIONING CO., NEW YORK. UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY Laboratory: 472-474 Broome Street, New York City Conditioning Tests Their Value in Purchasing, Throwing, Dyeing and ^iVeavmg Silk with Illustrations Convenient Tables and Units, Metric ami other Equivalents 1908 SiiK. manufacturing is not only a business, but a Science SIIK conditioning is as necessary to the business as to the Science HOUTEN COMPANY 409-415 PEARL STREET NEW YORK CONTENTS PAGE Photograph of Corti conditioning oven in operation at United States Silk Conditioning Company, New York Frontispiece Resolution of the Board of Managers of the Silk Association of America, designating the United States Silk Conditioning Company as the official Conditioning House for the Association 4 Officers and Directors of the United States Silk Conditioning Co., 1908 5 Stockholders of the United States Silk Conditioning Co., 1908 5 A Foreword 6 Variation in Tests 7 Photograph showing accurate weighing of samples at United States Silk Con- ditioning Company, New York 7 A Conditioned Weight Certificate, with illustration of an Invoice for 10 bales bought conditioned weight, or conditioned weight plus 2 per cent 8-11 Xet Weighing Certificate and Remarks 12-13 Sizing, Twist, and Elasticity and Tenacity, (breaking strength) Certificate, with explanation and remarks 14-16 Inspection Test 17 Boil-off Certificates, and their value explained 1819 .Measuring Certificate, and its use 20-21 Value of the Combination Test in purchasing, giving Throwsters' clearances... 22-23 Value of tests in Dyeing, illustrated 24-26 The Company's Rules and Regulations, when handling silk 26-28 Metric Equivalents Measures and Weights 29 Equivalents of Metric Weights in pounds and decimals 30 Equivalents of Pound Weights in kilograms and decimals 31 Equivalents of Ounces in decimals of the pound 32 International Yarn Tables Preface 33 Equivalents of Drams and Deniers. Table of length, of yards to the- pound Raw and Thrown 34-38 Number of yards to the pound of raw silk of one denier (Rule of seven fours) 39 Table of length of yards of silk to the pound in sizes 9/11 to 16/18 deniers, taking the average of the sizes 40 PART II. Silk Conditioning, historically considered 41-43 Raw Silk Rules of the American Silk Trade 44-49 Classification of Raw Silk for the American Silk Trade, 1908 50 Recommendations as to Classification, based upon standard samples, selected each silk season 50 Throwsters' Rules of the American Silk Trade 51-52 Customs Prevailing in Skein Silk Dyeing 53-A5 Manufacturers' Cost Sheets, broad weaves 56-59 Manufacturers' Cost Sheets, narrow weaves 60 Don'ts 61-62 Index 6 -6fi The Value of Conditioning 67 RESOLUTION OF THE BOARD OF MANAGERS OF THE SILK ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA DESIGNATING THE UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COM- PANY AS THE OFFICIAL CONDITIONING HOUSE FOR THE ASSOCIATION WHEREAS, it is the established custom in the silk centers of the world for the local silk associations and of the National Governments to designate a certain silk conditioning works as the official authority and source of information in making tests of silk in matters of moisture, strength, size, boil-off, etc., and, WHEREAS, it is believed to be necessary to establish an official recognition of some one silk conditioning establishment in the United States as a governing or authoritative source of information in cases of dispute, as to condition of raw silk or thrown silks coming before Arbitration Committees of this Association, and, WHEREAS, we deem it to be to the best interests of the members of this Association to recognize the United States Silk Conditioning Company for this purpose; Therefore, be it RESOLVED, That the United States Silk Conditioning Com- pany be and hereby is designated as the official conditioning house of this Association, and the Arbitration Committee of the Association, which is elected by this Board, is hereby informed ac- cordingly. New York, May 22, 1908. Attest: Uniteb States >tlk (onbittoning, Company OFFICIAL TESTING HOUSE FOR Ctye Silk association of Clmerica Certificate oj Conbittoneb IPeigbt Ho. a 10,000 Hen? Jor Certificate f or irt r s toeig^t Kilos 0.35 Kilos 0.93 Kilos 137. 62. 1. 65 ~44 28 Paper anb Strings 134.83 lbs-r ut a> jigfyt Kilos 61. 16 Of 18 Skei useb. IDfyicr; re IDrjen rebuceb to ^rom tr-fjicfy re toeigljt, an ab ab dssfc 1.9: loss ct? Ct? Stgneb for tl;e Comyat its taken for Conbition Cest.. 1.2 . were >eigr;eb originally rams, absolute u?eigfyt of rams, suits, for tfye abope net solute roeigfyt of Kilos b \\% Kilos Conbttioneb IDeigljt Kilo= 880. 778. 54. 5. 00 30 04 94 59. 98 *% on Het XDeigtjt Kilos Conbitioneb H)eigl)t Cbs 1. 18 132. 23 arges to tfye Consignor $ ..... ' - ._ ar^es to ttj'e Consignee $ .9.. ..**?. laboratories : W2 anb ^Z^ Broome St., Hen? york tflepbon? Ho. 738 Sprinn. Conditioning House in the -world attempts at present to grade, classify or raluc silk. CONDITIONING SILK FOR CORRECT WEIGHT By its very nature, raw silk is an article which is capable of lending itself successfully to misconception or deception. Its weight varies ac- cording to climatic conditions. In rainy weather, for instance, the same silk will automatically increase in weight as much as THREE per cent, over its weight in ordinary dry weather. Because of its power to absorb moisture its weight CAN be still further increased through artificial means, as much as thirty (30) per cent. Silk "conditioning," so called, de- termines the ABSOLUTE DRY WEIGHT of silk, and to this weight so ascertained eleven (11) per cent, is added as the universal standard to represent the usual absorption of moisture from the normal atmosphere. When buying a specified lot of raw silk it, therefore, becomes im- portant to know the true AMOUNT OF FIBRE AND OF ATMOS- PHERIC MOISTURE, RESPECTIVELY, contained in the lot. Not to know the conditioned weight of the silk you are buying means to risk from five to ten or more cents per pound on your purchase. 1. All the operations of weighing are made by two persons, one checking the other. 2. Subsequent to taking the gross weight of the bale, which is the weight in the shirt with bagging and ropes removed, the opening and unpacking is speedily done and samples are taken from all parts of the bale. These sample skeins are divided into three equal lots, each of these three lots to represent in itself the bale under operation. One lot for con- ditioning test should not be under 300 grams nor over 500 grams, (say 10 to 20 ounces). All tare attached to the silk, (Shirts, paper, strings, etc.) is reported separately. The lacings (capiures) of Grant-reeled silk are not considered as tare, if kept in normal size (40 inches to one skein). 3. The three sample lots are at once weighed net on two different scales and by two different persons, within one decigram (about 1J^ grains). If the second weighing does not differ from the first by more than l l /2 decigrams, (2.3148 grains), the first weight is definite, and forms the basis for the calculation. 4. Two of the three sample lots are submitted to Dessication or Drying out in the conditioning ovens at a temperature not exceeding 140 degrees Centigrade, (284 degrees Fahrenheit), and weighed within one decigram, (1.5432 grains). The weight obtained is the dry weight or absolute weight. 5. If the difference in the percentage of loss of the two lots does not exceed l / 2 % (half per cent.) the average of the two losses constitutes the basis for calculating the absolute weight of the whole bale, from which the conditioned or commercial weight is obtained by adding 11% for al- lowed normal moisture. Conditioning Houses supply only the information which can be expressed in figures. 6. If the difference in the percentage of loss of the two lots exceeds y 2 % (half per cent.) the third lot, kept in reserve, is also submitted to the dessication. If the difference in the percentage of loss of the three lots does not exceed 1% (one per cent), the average of the three losses forms the basis for calculating the conditioned weight of the whole bale. 7. In case the maximum difference in the percentage of loss of all three lots should exceed 1% (one per cent.) the conditioning operation is inconclusive. The silk has then to be spread openly during 48 hours in order to obtain uniformity in the state of moisture. A new operation of conditioning follows. A charge for both operations is made. 8. All calculating operations are made in duplicate by different per- sons, one checking the other. ILLUSTRATION : INVOICE. Sales to be governed by Raw Silk Rules, adopted by Board of Man- agers of the Silk Association of America, May 22, 1908. NEW YORK, Jan. i, 1909. MR. JOHN DOE, N. Y. Bought of RICHARD ROE & CO. New York Terms Cash less 3%. As per Contract No. 999, dated Dec. i, 1908. Payable in Gold at New York. Silk bought Conditioned weight, plus two per cent. JAPAN FILATURE No. 1. 548-55710 Bales Silk. 548 136.50 9 137.00 50 137.50 1 137.50 2 137.50 3 137.00 4 135.50 5 137.50 6 138.00 7 138.00 1372.00 gross weight. Tare 2.26 per B. 22.60 1349.40 Ibs. at $4.00 $5,397.60. 10 The man who insists upon having his raw silk purchase tested for absolute weight intends to pay his bill; he is watching his cost. Two illustrations, A and B, follow, showing importance of this test. Bales as follows are selected for test : (A) 548 136.50 550 137.50 553 137.00 557 138.00 Total 549.00 gross weight. Conditioning tickets show Total 526 Ibs. Conditioned weight for the four bales. Then, by simple proportion, 549 : 526 : : 1372 : x Gross Wt. Cond. Wt. Gross Wt. Con. Wt. whole lot. This reduced equals 526X1372=721672-=-549=1314.52 Cond. Wt. whole +2% 26.29 [ten bales. 1340.81 Limit of amount [to be paid for. Bill calls for 1349.40 Ibs. at $4.00 $5,397.60 Limit 1340.81 Ibs. Adjustment claim against seller.... 8.50 Ibs. at $4.00 34.36 (A) final bill $5,363.24 (B) Suppose the same four bales selected had dried out one pound each. Then gross bill weight becomes 1368.00 Ibs. Gross test bale weight becomes 545.00 Ibs. Bill will call for 1345.40 Ibs. Then by simple proportion, 545 : 526 : : 1368 : x ^conditioned weight whole lot. The conditioned weight of the 'bales is obviously the same. Reduced, 526X1368=719568-^-545=1320.30 Cond. Wt. whole ten bales. -f2%= 26.40 1346.70 limit to be paid for. Bill now calls for 1345.40 Ibs. at $4.00 $5,381.60 But Conditioned Weight plus 2% .... 1346.70 Ibs. Bill as above 1345.40 Ibs. Adjustment claim in favor of seller. . . 1.30 Ibs. at $4.00 5.20 Final bill $5,386.80 (B) Final bill $5,386.80 (A) Final bill 5,363.24 Loss to buyer from selecting only four bales out of ten $ 23.56 To have conditioned the whole ten bales would cost buyer and seller each $5.00, and all uncertainty removed. NOTE. Always get an invoice for each bale, either gross or net. After receipt of these weights select for conditioning at random to avoid wet or dry bale. This is most important. To get conditioned weights of every bale prevents error and is the only sure way to know exactly what you receive. (See Combination Test, page 22.) One hundred pounds absolute weight plus 11% equals one hundred and eleven pounds conditioned weight. Conditioned weight of the same silk plus 2% equals 113.22 pounds. Therefore while conditioned weight is obtained by adding 11% to absolute dry weight, conditioned weight plus 2% contains 13.22% of moisture, added to absolute dry weight, inasmuch as the 2% is added to the conditioned weight which has been already included. 11 UnitebStates Silk n Actual Weight ) Average Si.y ) on Condition Weight \ First 7V/.v/. Turns per inch Second Tvist. Turns per inch Elasticity 224.8 Tenacity 54 4 Signed for the Company, Average Number of Thousand Yards per Pound 307 . 5 Charges, $ 1.75 N. *B. ; The samples are 450 metres long^cighed in half Decigram The average si york Ho. 73 Spring. When you find that your conditioning tests continue to prove satisfactory, you should remember that you are thereby safe-guarding yourself against mistakes. BOIL- OFF The boil-off test on raw and thrown silk shows the loss of gum, soap, oil, or other soluble substance, which the silk sustains by boiling twice, for one-half hour each time in separate solutions of soap. The quantity of soap in each solution to be 25% (twenty-five per cent.) of the absolute weight of the silk and the quantity of water to be standard pro- portion. The sample to be tested is reduced to the absolute weight be- fore and after the boiling-off. From the difference between these two weights the percentage of loss is computed. To buy, and have thrown, raw silk without having the boil-off test of the Raw and Thrown applied by the Conditioning House may mean a loss of ten cents per pound without your being aware of it, either in the Raw, the Throwing, or the Dyeing of the silk. The boil-off of the raw and thrown silk should be tested simultaneously in the same process, according to Throwsters' Rules, Article IX, on de- termination of loss. See page 52. The boil-off test is unlike the one made by the dyer, who may strip more or less gum than the Conditioning House, as he finds wise and necessary, but it represents the standard test and is always made with the same proportion of soap and water and boiled for exactly the same length of time, so that all tests will be comparative and standard. The real value of all silk is and must be based on the Conditioned Weight Boiled-Off Thrown Silk. This is what you get, though few will compare costs to ascertain this only Real Value. The value of the raw silk, the waste made in throwing, the proper weighting to be used in the dyeing, and the very "goodness of the goods" are controlled by knowing the conditioned weight of the boiled-off thrown silk. Variable starting points on the other hand, (like Thrown Actual Ticket Weight for Dyeing) cause loss and trouble continually. The value of the Raw and Thrown Silk boil-offs is illustrated on page 23, showing the clearance of the lot when returned from the Throwster, and on page 24, showing the discrepancies in Dyeing. Unttefc States Silk Conditioning Company OFFICIAL TESTING HOUSE FOR Silk association of america. 'Certificate^f^ngt^ Ho. 2000 Duplicate Jan. ls.t. t \9 09 . Certificate for IHessrs John Dpe, New York., Richard Roe., Patersoiu for test mabe on J.apan Tram.. inatbs, tic. i s.6.7.9 ^.:LU 9.7.54 ab5 :; Cotal ( 2^ J.. 9.815.. Cotalj \st 19,707 I 9854 )jh Signcb for the Co. Charges $1.00 Caboratoiies: 472 anb ^7^ ^roome St., lltw ttelevhonf Ho. 7.3H Spring. Universal use of conditioning tests will eliminate unfair and unintelligent competition from all branches of the business and is in the line of true costing of silk merchandise. MEASURING LENGTHS OF SKEINS We present on page 40 a table which will be found very useful in this connection. This table deals with silks running from 9/11 deniers to 16/18 deniers and presents the number of yards per pound for the two allowable extremes of each size in raw silk thrown without soaking (in which a take up of 3% for twist should be figured on) and in raw silk thrown with soaking, the additions to the weight from soap and oil of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7%, in addition to the 3% of take up in twist in each case. If the compound sizing test shows for instance that a lot of raw silk runs 300,000 yards to the pound and if this is thrown into two-thread organzine with approximately 3% allowance, as in Europe, for the shorten- ing due to twist, and if the difference between the boil-off raw and the boil-off thrown is shown to be 4% the number of yards given in the Table marked No. 7 will show, (always in terms of single thread of course) what the thrown silk should measure per pound. These measuring tests are also of special value to the makers of spool or twist silks, and their customers. Those manufacturers who use much cotton yarn, particularly in fine counts, whether domestic or imported, will find it of much importance to have the Conditioning House test the weights and yards per pound of the yarns delivered to them. In fine numbers a difference in the count means a considerable differ- ence in the price, and any one wishing to know that he is getting what he is paying for can only be sure of it by having the size of his yarns, on a conditioned basis, tested by the Conditioning House. To see that the skeins delivered are of standard length measuring tests should also be made. 21 Your most unsatisfactory competitor is he who only believes his "cost is loiv," but who doesn't know. COMBINATION TEST This is by far the most valuable and eventually the cheapest method of testing all silk, as it gives the Conditioned Weight Raw. the Con- ditioned Weight Thrown, the Boil-off Raw and the Boil-off Thrown, also the sizing from each bale; and on five or more bales the option is given on each five to have three Regular sizings and one Compound sizing made under this test. With this information the purchased weight, re- turns from the Throwster, Boil-off for your instructions to dyers, size for paying Throwster and controlling the manufacture of the goods, are all obtained in the most definite possible manner at the low cost of $17.50 for five bales, probably worth $2,500.00. We believe this should be par- ticularly attractive to all American manufacturers. Part of the tests for conditioned weight are already by agreement in the new rules payable by the seller, so that in the end the cost to the manufacturer is further reduced. When ordered to include the Inspection Test a total charge of $20.00 for five bales will be made, as the sizing test will not need to be duplicated. In making the Combination Test all the Raw bales are sent to the Conditioning House, where the bales are tested for Conditioned Weight, and samples are removed for sizing, (and Inspection test when desired). Samples of Raw are reserved for Boiling-off, marked with the lot number and held in reserve until the throwing is completed. The raw is at once shipped away for Throwing. As soon as one bale, (6 to 8 bundles), is thrown, it is returned to the Conditioning Works and tested for Con- ditioned Weight Thrown ; small samples are removed for boiling off, and the bale forwarded to the Dyer or Owner to avoid delay. Each bale, as thrown, is treated in like manner, and when all are finished, the samples of Raw and Thrown are Boiled off together in the same baths, as this test is uncertain if done at different times. (See Art. IX, Trowsters' Rules, page 52.) When the Conditioned Weight and Boil-off of all the raw silk, and the Conditioned Weight and Boil-off Thrown of all the thrown silk is thus determined, the clearance like that following is made and the loss determined. To test part of the Raw or Thrown is inconclusive as silk varies rapidly in weight, and the parcels tested may be too dry or too wet to properly represent the whole lot. The ten bale purchase on page 10 is supposed to be sent to two throwsters, A and B. The dealer or manufacturer who is credited with having loyally accepted conditioning tests as his standards in his transactions will not be idle; he will be busy, when others, who have not adopted them, are idle. Conditioned Weight is 1314.52 Pounds. Both throwsters report Opening Weight 1350.00 Throwster A. Returns 1363.00 Pounds. Opening weight 1350.00 Boil-off Raw 20% < n -i ce TI ^^ \- Gain 13.00 Boil-off Thrown 26% f Throwster B. Reports Opening Weight.... 1350.00 Pounds. Returns 1345.00 Boil-off Raw 20% | Boil-off Thrown 24% f L< Throwster A. 's Clearance. Conditioned Weight Raw 1314.52 Pounds. Conditioned Weight Thrown. 1360.00 " Conditioned Weight Raw 1314.52 Boil-off Raw 20% 262.91 Boil-off Raw Silk... 1051.61 1051.61 Conditioned Weight Thrown 1360.00 Boil-off Thrown, 26% 353.60 Boil-off Thrown... 1006.40 1006.40 Loss 45.21 45.211051.61=4 3/10 per cent, of loss made. Throwster B.'s Clearance. Conditioned Weight Raw.. 1314.52 Boil-off Raw 20% 262.91 Boil-off Raw Silk 1051.61 1051.61 Conditioned Weight Thrown 1353.00 Boil-off Thrown 24% 324.72 1028.28 1028.28 Loss 23.33 23.33-M051. 61=2 2/10 per cent, of loss made. N. B. Note carefully that in these instances it will be seen how the man who has given back 18 pounds more than the other has really made nearly twice as much loss. Persistent unreliable estimates of cost spell bankruptcy. VALUE OF TESTS IN DYEING Few manufacturers realize what an important difference may result in the cost of their dyeing, and in the percentage of their weighting, from a lack of knowledge of the Boil-off of their Thrown Silk. We invite careful attention to the following : BOIL-OFF IN DYEING. Showing that variations may result in practice if Conditioned Weight, and Boil off Thrown certificates are not used as the basis of computation. The following ilustrations are all based on 100 Ibs. of Conditioned Weight Thrown Silk. The Boil-off in each of these cases being 20%, leaves 80 pounds of Conditioned Weight Boiled-off Thrown Silk. The 100 pounds Conditioned Weight is supposed to weigh 103 and 105 pounds, scale or ticket weight, for the purpose of this illustration. The cost of Dyeing and the returns are shown for I. Pure dye at 30c. per pound. II. 16 oz. dye at 50c. per pound. III. 24 oz. dye at 80c. per pound. IV. 32 oz. dye at $1.00 per pound. V. 48 oz. dye at $1.50 per pound. I. Pure Dye at 30c. per pound. 105 Ibs. at 30c $31.50 103 " " " 30.90 100 " " " (Conditioned Weight) 30.00 Conditioned Weight saves $1.50. 80 Ibs. of Boiled-off Silk Dyed. Saving 5%. II. 16 oz. Dye at 50 c. per Ib. Silk Weighting Return Bill A. 105 Ibs. at 50c 80 + 25 = 105 $52.50 B. 103 " " 80 -f 23 = 103 51.50 C. 100 " " 80 -(- 20 = 100 50.00 5 Ibs. weight gained on A. for $2.50 50c. per Ib. no saving. 3 Ibs. weight gained on B. for $1.50 50c. per Ib. no saving. III. 24 oz. Dye at 80c. per pound. Silk Weighting Return Bill A. 105 Ibs. at 80c 80 + 77V 2 = 157^ $84.00 B - 103 " " 80 + 74^ = 154^ 82.40 C. 100 " " 80 + 70 = 150 80.00 1 l /2 Ibs. gain on A. for $4.00 saves $2.002^% on dyeing. 4^ Ibs. gain on B. for $2.40 saves $1.20 1J4 % on dyeing. % Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, A 96.8% % Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, B 93.1% % Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, C 87.5% The most dangerous competitors are those who take things for granted. IV. 32 oz. Dye at $1.00 per pound. Silk Weighting Return Bill A. 105 Ibs. at $1.00. . . . .. 80 + 130 = 210 $105.00 B. 103 " " " . . . . .. 80 + 126 = 206 103.00 C. 100 " " " .... .. 80 + 120 = 200 100.00 10 Ibs. gain on A. for $5.00 saves $5.00 5% on dyeing. 6 Ibs. gain on B. for $3.00 saves $3.00 3% on dyeing. % Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, A 162 l / 2 %. % Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, B 157J4% % Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, C 150% V. 48 oz. Dye at $1.50 per pound. A. 105 Ibs. at $1.50. B. 103 " " " . C. 100 " " " . Silk 80 80 Weighting + 235 = + 229 = _|_ 220 := Return 315 309 300 Bill $157.50 154.50 150.00 15 Ibs. gain on A. for $7.50 saves $15.00 10% on dyeing. 9 Ibs. gain on B. for $4.50 saves $ 9.00 6% on dyeing. % Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, A 293^4%. % Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, B 286*4%. % Weighting on original 80 Ibs. silk, C. 275%. Therefore : So long as the price of dyeing is based on ticket bundle or actual weight, the manufacturer will, as illustrated, find it profitable to arrange that I. All silk of 16 oz. dye and under should be soaked lightly in throw- ing and kept very dry. II. All silk for 16 oz. dye and over should be soaked heavily in throwing and kept moist. To know the real return, however, the Conditioned Weight Boiled- off Thrown Silk must be used as the basis of figuring or your silk may be over-weighted 10% or more without your being aware of it. All this information for $3.50 per bale, worth $500 to $1,000. 25 All tests made by numbers mvncr of silk unknown to employees. RULES AND REGULATIONS HANDLING SILK FOR (Subject to addition or alteration as required, due notice of which will be given.) CONDITIONING 1. Absolute secrecy of all tests is the first rule of this establishment. 2. All the operations of weighing are made by two persons, one checking the other. 3. Subsequent to taking the gross weight of the bale, the opening and unpacking is speedily done and samples are taken from all parts of the bale. 1 hese sample skeins are divided into three equal lots, each of these three lots to represent in itself the bale under operation. One lot for conditioning test should not be under 300 grams nor over 500 grams. Tare attached to the silk (paper and strings) is reported separately. The lacing (capiures) of Grant-reeled silk are not considered as tare, if kept in normal size (40 inches to one skein). 4. The three sample lots are at once weighed net on two different scales and by two different persons, within one decigram. If the second weighing does not differ from the first by more than \ l / 2 decigram, the first weight is definite, and form the basis for the calculation. 5. Two of the three sample lots are submitted to Desiccation or Dry- ing out in the conditioning ovens at a temperature not exceeding 140 degrees Centigrade and weighed within one decigram. The weight ob- tained is the dry-weight or absolute weight. 6. If the difference in the percentage of loss of the two lots does not exceed l / 2 % (half per cent.), the average of the two losses constitutes the basis for calculating the absolute weight of the whole bale, from which the conditioned or commercial weight is obtained by adding 11% for allowed normal moisture. 7. If the difference in the percentage of loss of the two lots ex- ceeds l / 2 % (half per cent.), the third lot, kept in reserve, is also sub- mitted to the Desiccation. If the difference in the percentage of loss of the three lots does not exceed 1% (one per cent.), the average of the three losses forms the basis for calculating the conditioned weight of the whole bale. 8. In case the maximum difference in the percentage of loss of all three lots should exceed 1% (one per cent.), the conditioning operation is inconclusive. The silk has then to be spread openly during 48 hours in order to obtain uniformity in the state of moisture. A new operation of conditioning follows. A charge for both operations is made. 9. All calculating operations are made in duplicate by different per- sons, one checking the other. An ounce of Prevention is worth a pound of Cure. 10. Other articles than silk may also be submitted to the conditioning operation. The allowance for natural moisture is as follows : Carded wool and wool waste 18^4% Wool yarn 17 % Cotton, raw and yarned 8 l />% Linen, raw and yarned 12 % Jute, raw and yarned 13^4% Tow, raw and yarned 12j/2% Mixed yarn of wool and cotton 10 % Mixed yarn of wool and silk .' . 16 % Spun or schappe, raw and carded silk 11 % SIZING TESTS The fineness of silk is determined by the size. The size is the num- ber of deniers which a skein of a certain length weighs. The legal denier is a skein of silk four hundred and fifty meters long, wound in four hun- dred turns on a reel of one hundred and twelve and one-half centimeters in circumference and weighed by a unit of five centigrams (called DENIER). To establish the size of a lot of silk, ten skeins are taken from every bale and from different parts of the bale, and from each skein three test skeins (called FLOTTILONS) are reeled off. The conditioned size is obtained by reducing the test skeins to the absolute weight and adding 11% of allowed moisture. For such ad- ditional test, a charge of 50c. is made. TWIST TESTS Samples of about 3 to 4 yards are taken from each skein and reeled on a metallic holder. A short boiling operation serves to free the silk from the gum. The tests are made on a fixed length (half meter or about 20 inches) and the number of turns reported on one meter, and also per inch by dividing turns per meter by 40 (the exact equivalent being 39, 37/100 inches). ELASTICITY AND TENACITY The elasticity is expressed in Millimeters on one meter and tenacity in Grams on one meter. BOIL-OFF The boil-off test shows the loss of gum which silk, (raw or thrown) sustains by boiling twice for one-half hour in a separate solution of soap. The quantity of soap in each solution to be 25% of the absolute weight of the silk. The sample to be tested is reduced to the absolute weight be- fore and after the boiling-off. The difference between the two weights gives the percentage of loss. Eternal vigilance is the source of gain. PRICE LIST Subject to alteration, as required, due notice of which will be given. Transportation Charges Payable by Owner. Per bale. Per test. Conditioning all raws, or Elasticity and tenacity $0.75 thrown silk $1-00 Twist 75 Per test. Inspection test, 5 bales or less. 5.00 Boiling off l- Net weighing (with detailed Measuring: tare) 75 10 skeins, 20,000 yds. long. . . 1.00 Weighing raw in shirts 2o 15 skeins, 15,000 yds. long. . . 1.00 Sizing 1.00 20 skeins, 10,000 yds. long, or Compound sizing. 2.00 l ess 1.00 Conditioning test skeins 50 Additional copies of certificates Conditioning spun silk (limited (in double) each 25 to 300 Ibs. per bale) 1.00 COMBINATION TESTS. On not less than five bales and not more than twenty bales in any one lot. Thrown bales not to exceed the number of raw bales. For five bales $17.50 For each additional bale 3.50 For five bales, with inspection test 20.00 Conditioning, five bales raw... $5.00 Sampling thrown silk as re- Sizing, five bales raw 5.00 turned, for boil-off $0.50 Conditioning, five bales thrown, Boiling off raw 1-00 as returned from throwster Boiling off thrown 1.00 and forwarded to dyer 5.00 If treated separately the individual charge for each of the above tests would be $5.00, making $25.00 in all, showing a saving of $7.50 when the combination test is ordered. Combination test must have lot number for identification of thrown silk when returned. MEMO. THE COMBINATION TEST GIVES a. The conditioned weight raw as a check in paying for the silk. b. Sizing test on each bale showing the variation in the thread 30 small skeins from each bale. c. The conditioned weight of the thrown silk returned by the throwster. d. A boil off of the raw silk (sizing skeins) giving the average gum in the entire lot 30 small skeins from each bale. c. A boil off of the thrown giving the average gum and soap in all the thrown silk as returned. [RULES REGARDING DELIVERY OF CERTIFICATES All certificates are produced in triplicate. The original is permanently filed at the laboratory. The test tickets of our Company are only delivered to the firm or per- son who has ordered the test, and in whose name the ticket is issued. To avoid confusion, the tests ordered have to be paid for by the firm ordering the same. If the charges are to be divided between two firms, both firms are en- titled to one ticket. For Duplicate Copies (in double) 25 cents is charged. 28 UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY METRIC EQUIVALENTS LINEAR MEASURE. 1 centimeter=:0.3937 in. 1 inch=2.54 centimeters. 1 decimeter=3.937 in.=0.328 ft. 1 foot=3.048 decimeters. 1 meter=39.37 in.=1.0936 yds. 1 yard=0.9144 meters. 1 Xlecameter=1.9884 rods. 1 rod=0.5029 decameters. 1 kilometer=0.62137 miles. 1 mile=1.6093 kilometers. (The meter, as used in Europe, is 39.370432 inches.) SQUARE MEASURE. 1 sq. centimeter=0.1550 sq. inches. 1 sq. inch=6.452 sq. centimeters. 1 sq. decimeter=0.1076 sq. feet. 1 sq. foot=9.2903 sq. decimeters. 1 sq. meter=1.196 sq. yards. 1 sq. yard=0.8361 sq. meters. 1 are=3.954 sq. rods. 1 sq. rod=0.2529 ares. 1 hectare 2.47 acres. 1 acre=0.4047 hectares. 1 sq. kilometer:=0.386 sq. miles. 1 sq. mile=2.59 sq. kilometers. WEIGHTS. 1 decigram = 0.003527 oz. = 1.5432 1 metric ton=1.1023 English short grains. tons. 1 gram=0.03527 oz. Avoir., or about 1 ounce Avoir.=28.35 grams. 15^2 Troy grains. 1 pound Avoir.=0.4536 kilograms. 1 kilogram=2.2046 Ibs. Avoir. 1 English short ton=0.9072 metric tons. APPROXIMATE METRIC EQUIVALENTS. 1 decimeter=4 inches. 1 Hter=1.06 qt. liquid, 0.9 qt. dry. 1 meter=l.l yards. 1 hectoliter=2 */ bushels. 1 kilometer=5"| of a mile. 1 kilogram=2 1 /s Ibs. 1 hectare=2^ acres. 1 metric ton=2,200 Ibs. 1 stere, or cu. meter=54 of a cord. TROY WEIGHT. 24 grains^l pennyweight. 12 ounces=l pound^=5,760 grains. 20 pennyweights=l ounce. Used for weighing gold, silver, etc. APOTHECARIES' WEIGHT. 20 grains=l scruple. 8 drams=l ounce. 3 scruples=l dram. 12 ounces=l pound=5,760 grains. The ounce and pound in this are the same as in troy weight. AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT. 27 i: /32 grains=l dram. 4 quarters=l hundred weight. 16 drams=l ounce. 2,000 lbs.=:l short ton. 16 ounces=l pound=7,000 grains. 2,240 lbs.=l long ton. 25 pounds=l quarter. To avoid error, use abbreviations grs. for grains, gms. for grams. Pounds and decimals of pounds are preferable to pounds and ounces for all calculations. The values given above have been checked by the U. S. Bureau of Standards. 29 UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY EQUIVALENTS OF METRIC WEIGHTS IN POUNDS AND DECIMALS Kgs. Lbs. Kgs. Lbs. Kgs. Lbs. 1 2.2046 36 79.3656 71 156.5266 2 4.4092 37 81.5702 72 158.7312 3 6.6138 38 83.7748 73 160.9358 4 8.8184 39 85.9794 74 163.1404 5 11.0230 40 88.1840 75 165.3450 6 13.2276 41 90.38S6 76 167.5496 7 15.4322 42 92.5932 77 169.7542 8 17.6368 43 94.7978 78 171.9588 9 19.8414 44 97.0024 79 174.1634 10 22.0460 45 99.2070 80 176,3680 11 24.2506 46 101.4116 81 178.5725 12 26.4552 47 103.6162 82 180.7773 13 28.6598 48 105.8208 83 182.9818 14 30.8644 49 108.0254 84 185.1864 15 33.0690 50 110.2300 85 187.3910 16 35.2736 51 112.4346 86 189.5956 17 37.4782 52 114.6392 87 191.8002 18 39.6828 53 116.8438 88 194.0048 19 41.8874 54 119.0484 89 196.2094 20 44.0920 55 121.2530 90 198.4140 21 46.2966 56 123.4576 91 200.6186 22 48.5012 57 125.6622 92 202.8232 23 50.7058 58 127.8688 93 205.0278 24 52.9104 59 130.0714 94 207.2324 25 55.1150 60 132.2760 95 209.4370 26 57.3196 61 134.4806 96 211.6416 27 59.5242 62 136.6852 97 213.8462 28 61.7288 63 138.8898 98 216.0508 29 63.9334 64 141.0944 99 218.2554 30 66.1380 65 143.2990 100 220.4600 31 68.3426 66 145.5036 150 330.6900 32 70.5472 67 147.7082 200 440.9200 33 72.7518 68 149.9128 300 661.3800 34 74.9564 69 152.1174 400 881.8400 35 77.1610 70 154.3220 500 1102.3000 30 LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY EQUIVALENTS OF POUND WEIGHTS IN KILOS AND DECIMALS Lbs. Kgs. Lbs. Kgs. Lbs. Kgs. 1 0.4536 36 16.3296 71 32.2056 2 0.9072 37 16.7832 72 32.6592 3 1.3608 38 17.2368 73 33.1128 4 1.8144 39 17.6904 74 33.5664 5 2.2680 40 18.1440 75 34.0200 6 2.7216 41 18.5976 76 34.4736 7 3.1752 42 19.0512 77 34.9272 8 3.6288 43 19.5048 78 35.3808 9 4.0824 44 19.9584 79 35.8344 10 4.5360 45 20.4120 80 36.2880 11 4.9896 46 20.8656 81 36.7416 12 5.4432 47 21.3192 82 37.1952 13 5.8968 48 21.7728 83 37.6488 14 6.3504 49 22.2264 84 38.1024 15 6.8040 50 22.6800 85 38.5560 16 7.2576 51 23.1336 86 39.0096 17 7.7112 52 23.5872 87 39.4632 18 8.1648 53 24.0408 88 39.9168 19 8.6184 54 24.4944 89 40.3704 20 9.0720 55 24.9480 90 40.8240 21 9.5256 56 25.4016 91 41.2776 22 9.9792 57 25.8552 92 41.7312 23 10.4328 58 26.3088 93 42.1848 24 10.8864 59 26.7624 94 42.6384 25 11.3400 60 27.2160 95 43.0920 26 11.7936 61 27.6696 96 43.5456 27 12.2472 62 28.1232 97 43.9992 28 12.7008 63 28.5768 98 44.4528 29 13.1544 64 29.0304 99 44.9064 30 13.6080 65 29.4840 100 45.3600 31 14.0616 66 29.9376 150 68.0400 32 14.5152 67 30.3912 200 90.7200 33 14.9688 68 30.8448 300 136.0800 34 15.4224 69 31.2984 400 181.4400 35 15.8760 70 31.7520 500 226.8000 :u UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY EQUIVALENTS OF OUNCES IN DECIMALS OF THE POUND Ozs. Decimals. Ozs. Decimals. 54 Lbs. 0.0156 8^4 Lbs. 0.5156 % 0.0312 8/ 2 0.5312 H 0.0468 8^ 0.5468 i 0.0625 9 0.5625 i# 0.0781 V/4 0.5781 V6 0.0937 9/2 0.5937 1*4 0.1093 9& 0.6093 2 0.1250 10 0.6250 2J4 0.1406 ioj4 0.6406 2J^ 0.1562 10^2 0.6562 2M 0.1728 10^4 0.6718 3 0.1875 11 0.6875 3J4 0.2031 iij4 0.7031 3^ 0.2187 11/2 0.7187 324 0.2343 ii}4 0.7343 4 0.2500 12 0.7500 4^4 0.2656 13J4 0.7656 4/ 2 0.2812 12/ 0.7812 4^ 0.2968 12^4 0.7968 5 0.3125 13 0.8125 5^ 0.3281 13^4 0.8281 5/2 0.3437 13^ 0.8437 5J4 0.3593 13J4 0.8593 6 0.3750 14 0.8750 6^4 0.3906 14J4 0.8906 6^ 0.4062 14^ 0.9062 654 0.4218 14^4 0.9218 7 0.4375 15 0.9375 7J4 0.4531 15>4 0.9531 7/2 0.4687 151^ 0.9687 7*4 0.4843 15J4 0.9843 8 0.5000 16 1.0000 LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY INTERNATIONAL YARN TABLES (Quoted from the published tables of Mr. Matthew Blair, of Glasgow, Scotland.) Several conferences have been held on this subject, and at that of Paris in 1900 it was agreed that the best system was that of a lixed weight, and a variable count length. The unit was fixed at 1 meter, equal to 1 gramme. Number 1 would mean that a length of 1 metre would weigh I gramme; number 100 would be 100 meters per gramme, etc. Exception was allowed for Raw and Thrown silks, to enable the count to show the degree of variation and irregularity incident to this class of material. The system agreed upon in that case was, on the con- trary, that of a fixed length and a variable count weight. The length of skein adopted was 450 meters, and the unit of weight the ^> decigram; thus the count of a silk is expressed by the number of y 2 decigrams which a length of 450 meters weighs. The count in International Metric System is also indicated on the bulletin. UNITED STAGES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY EQUIVALENTS OF DRAMS AND DENIERS TABLES OF LENGTH OF YARDS TO THE POUND -RAW AND THROWN Decimal Count Interna- tional Count Meters ! per Gramme Deniers Legal Count for Raw and Thrown Silk y 2 Decigrammes per 450 Metres Manchester Thrown Silk Count Drams per 1,000 Yards Decimal Count Yards per Pound Saw Yards per pound Thrown, Deduct- ng 3% for Short- ning from Twist, nd 3% for Soak- ing, 6% in all 1 9,000 515.93 496 466 2 4,500 257.96 992 933 3 3,000 171.97 1,488 1,399 4 2,250 128.98 1,984 1,865 5 1,800 103.20 2,481 2,332 6 1,500 85.98 2,977 2,798 7 1,285 71 73.70 3,473 3,264 8 1,125 64.49 3,969 3,751 9 1,000 57.33 4,465 4,197 10 900 51.59 4,962 4,664 11 818 18 46.90 5,458 5,131 12 750 42.99 5,954 5,597 13 692 31 39.68 6,450 6,063 14 642 s5 36.85 6,946 6,529 15 600 34.39 7,443 6,996 16 562 60 32.25 7,939 7,463 17 529" 30.35 8,435 7,929 18 500 28.66 8,931 8,395 19 47 3 88 27.15 9,426 8,860 20 450 25.79 9,924 8,831 21 428 57 24.56 10,420 9,795 22 409" 23.45 10,916 10,261 23 391 30 22.43 11,412 10,727 24 375 21.49 11,908 11,193 25 360 20.63 12,405 11,661 26 346 50 19.84 12,901 12,127 27 33S 33 19.11 13,397 12,593 28 321 42 18.42 13,893 13,060 29 310 34 17.79 14,389 13,526 30 300 17.19 14,886 13,995 31 290 32 16.64 15,382 14,459 32 281 28 16.12 15,878 14,925 33 272 72 15.63 16,374 15,392 34 264 70 15.17 16,870 15,858 35 257 14 14.74 17,364 16,322 36 250 14.33 17,863 16,791 37 243 24 13.94 18,350 17,249 38 236 s4 13.57 18,859 17,728 39 230 76 13.23 19,351 18,190 40 225 12.89 19,848 18,657 41 219 51 12.58 20,344 19,123 42 214 28 12.28 20,840 19,590 43 209 3 " 11.99 21,336 20,056 44 204 04 11.72 21,832 20,552 45 200 11.46 22,329 20,989 46 195 65 11.21 22,825 21,456 47 191" 10.97 23,321 21,922 48 187 60 10.74 23,817 22,388 49 183 10.53 24,313 22,854 50 180 10.32 24.809 23,320 LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY EQUIVALENTS OF DRAMS AND DENIERS TABLES OF LENGTH OF YARDS TO THE POUND - RAW AND THROWN Continued Decimal Count Interna- tional Count Meters pei- Deniers Legal Count for Raw and Thrown Silk l /2 Decigrammes Manchester Thrown Silk Count Drams per 1,000 Yards Decimal Count Yards per Pound Raw Yards per Pound Thrown, Deduct- ing 3% for Short- ening from Twist, and 3% for Soak- Gramme per 450 Meters ing, 6% in all 51 176 47 10.11 25,305 23,787 52 173 07 9.92 25,801 24,253 53 169 81 9.73 26,298 24,720 54 166 60 9.55 26,794 25,185 55 163 63 9.38 27,290 25,653 56 160 7t 9.21 27,786 26,120 57 157 8B 9.05 28,282 26,585 58 155 17 8.89 28,778 27,051 59 152 54 8.74 29,274 27,518 60 150 8.59 29,771 27,985 61 147 64 8.45 30,269 28,453 62 145 18 8.32 30,763 28,917 63 142 84 8.18 31,259 29,384 64 140 82 8.06 31,755 29,850 65 138 46 7.93 32,252 30,317 66 136 36 7.81 32,748 30,785 67 134 32 7.70 33,244 31,249 68 132 35 7.58 33,740 31,716 69 130 43 7.47 34,236 32,182 70 128 B2 7.37 34,733 32,649 71 126 76 7.26 35,229 33,105 72 125 7.16 35,725 33,582 73 123 28 7.06 36,221 . 34,048 74 121 62 6.97 36,717 34,514 75 120 6.88 37,214 34,981 76 118 42 6.78 37,710 35,447 77 116 88 6.70 38,206 35,914 78 115 38 6.61 38,702 36,464 79 113 92 6.53 39,198 36,836 80 112 50 6.44 39,695 37,303 81 111 11 6.37 40,191 37,780 82 109 75 6.29 40,681 38,246 83 108 43 6.21 41,183 38,712 84 107 14 6.14 41,679 39,178 85 105 88 6.07 42,176 39,645 86 104 65 5.99 42,672 40,112 87 103 44 5.93 43,168 40,578 88 102 02 5.86 43,664 41,044 89 101 12 5.79 44,160 41,510 90 100 5.73 44,657 41,978 91 98" 5.67 45,153 42,444 92 97 82 5.61 45,649 42,910 93 96 5.55 46,145 43,376 94 95 5.49 46,643 43,844 95 94 70 5.43 47,138 44,310 96 93 78 5.37 47,634 44,784 97 92 78 5.31 48,130 45,242 98 91 88 5.26 48,626 45,708 99 90 90 5.21 49,122 46,175 100 90 5.15 49,619 46,642 UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY EQUIVALENTS OF DRAMS AND DENIERS TABLES OF LENGTH OF YARDS TO THE POUND - RAW AND THROWN - Continued Interna- Deniers tional Legal Count for Count Raw and Thrown Meters Silk per , y 2 Decigrammes Gramme ' per 450 Meters Manchester Thrown Silk Count Drams per 1,000 Yards Decimal Count Yards per Pound Raw I Decimal Count Yards per Pound Thrown, Deduct- ing 3% for Short- ening from Twist, and 3% for Soak- ing, 6% in all 105 85 71 4.91 52,100 48,974 110 81 81 4.69 54,581 51,306 115 7S 26 4.48 57,062 53,638 120 75 4.29 59,543 55,970 125 72 4.12 62,024 58,303 130 eg 23 3.96 64,505 60,635 135 66 66 3.82 66.986 62,967 140 64* 3.68 69,467 65,299 145 62 07 * 3.56 71,948 67,631 150 60 3.44 1 74,429 69,963 155 58 06 3.32 76,910 72,295 160 S6 25 3.22 79,391 74,627 165 54** 3.13 81,872 76,960 170 52 W 3.03 84,353 79,292 175 5 1 42 2.94 86,834 81,624 180 50 2.86 89,315 83,956 185 4 g66 2.79 91,796 86,288 190 47 K 2.71 94,277 88,620 195 46 1B 2.64 96,758 90,953 200 45 2.57 99,239 93,285 205 43 90 2.52 101,720 95,467 210 42 s6 2.46 104,201 97,949 215 41 88 2.40 106,682 100,281 220 40" 2.34 109,163 102,613 225 40 2.29 111,644 104.945 230 39 13 2,24 114,125 107.277 235 38 30 2.19 116.606 109.610 240 37 50 2.14 119.087 111,942 245 36 73 2.10 121,568 114.274 250 36 2.06 124.049 116,606 255 3S 29 2.02 126.530 118.938 260 34 81 1.98 129,011 121,270 265 S3 86 1.94 131.492 123.602 270 33 s3 1.91 133,973 125.935 275 32 72 1.87 136,454 128.267 280 32 13 1.84 138,935 130.599 285 31 B7 1.81 141.416 132.931 290 3 1 03 1.78 143.897 135.263 295 30 60 1.75 146.378 137.595 300 30 1.72 148.859 139.927 305 29 50 1.69 151.340 142.260 310 29 03 1.66 153.821 144.592 315 28 BT 1.63 156.302 146.924 320 28" 1.61 158.783 149.256 325 27" 1.58 161.264 151.588 330 27 s7 1,56 163.745 153.920 335 26 s3 1.53 166.226 156.290 340 26" 1.51 168.707 158.585 345 350 26 08 25 71 1.49 1.47 171,188 173,668 160.917 163,248 LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY EQUIVALENTS OF DRAMS AND DEN1ERS TABLES OF LENGTH OF YARDS TO THE POUND -RAW AND THROWN Continued (TIT Decimal Count Interna- tional Count Meters per Gramme Deniers Legal Count for Raw and Thrown Silk Vi Decigrammes per 450 Meters Manchester Thrown Silk Count Drams per 1,000 Yards Decimal Count Yards per Pound Raw Yards per Pound Thrown, Deduct- ing 3% for Short- ening from Twist, and 3% for So-k- ing, 6% in all 355 2S 35 1.45 176,149 165,570 360 25 1.43 178,630 167,912 365 24 W 1.41 181,111 170,244 370 24 32 1.39 183,592 172,577 375 24 1.37 186,073 174,909 380 23" 1.35 188,554 177,241 385 23 s7 . 1.34 191,035 179,573 390 23 07 1.32 193,516 181,905 395 22 re 1.30 195,991 184,232 400 22 50 1.28 198,479 186,570 405 22 22 1.27 200,960 188,902 410 21 86 1.26 203,441 191,235 415 21 88 1.24 205,922 193,567 420 21 42 1.22 208,403 195,899 425 2 1 17 1.21 210,884 198,231 430 20 83 1.20 213,365 200,563 435 20 6 " . 1.18 215,846 202,895 440 20 46 1.17 218,327 205,227 445 20 22 1.16 220,408 207,183 450 20 1.14 223,288 209,881 455 19 78 1.13 225,769 212,013 460 19 56 1.12 228.250 214,555 465 19 86 1 .11 230,731 216,887 470 19 JB 1.09 233,212 219,219 475 18 94 1.08 235,639 221,501 480 18 7B 1.07 238,174 223,884 485 18 58 1.06 240,655 226,216 490 18 36 1.05 243,136 228,548 495 18 18 1.04 245,617 230,880 500 18 1.03 248,097 233,211 505 17 82 1.02 250,578 235,543 510 17 64 1.01 253,059 237,876 515 17 47 1.00 255,540 240,208 530 17 30 0.99 258,021 242,540 525 17 U 0.98 260,502 244,872 530 16 98 0.97 262,983 247,204 535 16 82 0.96 265,464 249,536 540 16 68 0.95 267.945 251,868 545 . 16 B1 0.94 270,426 254,200 550 16 se 0.93 272,906 256,532 555 16 21 093 275,387 258,864 560 16 07 0.92 277,868 261,096 565 15 83 0.91 280,349 263,528 570 15 78 0.90 282,830 265,860 575 15 0.90 285.311 268,192 580 15 51 0.89 287.791 270,524 585 15 38 0.88 290,272 272,856 590 15* 0.87 292,753 275,188 595 15 13 0.86 295.234 277,520 600 15 0.85 297,716 279,853 37 UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY EQUIVALENTS OF DRAMS AND DENIERS TABLES OF LENGTH OF YARDS TO THE POUND RAW AND THROWN Continued Interna- tional Meters per Gramme Deniers Manchester iSfiS^Sz ! T hr C c: u n nt Silk . ~, S ? Ik Drams per 1,000 l /z Decigrammes Yards per 450 Meters Decimal Count Yards per Pound Raw Decimal Count Yards per Pound Thrown, Deduct- ng 3% for Short- ening from Twist, and 3% for Soak- ing, 6% in all 610 14 75 0.84 302,679 284,518 620 14 51 0.83 307,641 289,182 630 14 28 0.81 312,603 293,847 640 14 06 0.80 317,565 298,511 650 13 84 0.79 322,526 303,174 660 13 63 0.78 327,488 307,839 670 13" 0.77 332,450 312,503 680 13 23 0.75 337,412 317,167 690 13 04 0.74 342,374 321,831 700 12 85 0.73 347,336 326,496 710 12 67 0.72 352,298 331,160 720 12 60 0.71 357,260 335,824 730 12 32 0.70 362,222 340,489 740 12 16 0.69 367,184 345,153 750 12 0.68 372,145 349,816 760 II 83 0.67 377,107 354,481 770 II 68 0.67 382,069 359,145 780 II 53 0.66 387,031 363,809 790 . II 38 0.65 391,993 368,473 800 II 28 0.64 396,956 373,139 810 H 11 0.63 401,918 377,803 820 10 97 0.63 406,880 382,477 830 10 84 0.62 411,842 387,131 840 10 71 0.61 416,804 391,796 850 10 68 0.60 421,765 396,459 860 10 46 0.60 426,727 401,123 870 10 34 6.59 431,689 405,788 880 10 22 0.58 436,651 410,452 890 10 11 0.58 441,613 415,116 900 10 0.57 446,575 419,780 910 98. 0.56 451,537 424,454 920 Q78 0.56 456,499 429,109 930 9 OT 0.55 461,461 433,773 940 9 57 0.54 466,423 438,438 950 9 47 0.54 471,384 443,101 960 970 9 s7 928 0.53 0.53 476,346 481,308 447,765 452,429 980 9 18 0.52 486,270 457,094 990 g9 0.52 491,232 461.758 1000 9 0.51 496,194 466.422 LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY TABLE OF LENGTH OF YARDS OF SILK TO THE POUND IN SIZES 9/11 TO 16/18 DENIERS, TAKING THE AVERAGE OF THE SIZE The table is based on the following figures of length of silk of One denier. 1 denier=0.05 grams. 1 kilogram=1000 grams. 1 kilogram=20,000 deniers of 450 meters each. 1 kilogram=9,000,000 meters 354,330,000 inches. 1 kilogram=2.2046 pounds. 1 pound=160,723,033 inches. 1 pound=4,464,528 yards to one pound of one 'denier. 4,444,444=Rule of seven four's yards to one pound of 1 denier. 20,084=Error less than l / 2 of 1%. 4,464,528 The exact decimal equivalent in inches for one meter as used in Europe and elsewhere, is 39.370432. As established by United States Standard it is 39.37 inches. This standard has been followed in pre- paring this book as the difference of .000432 may be considered negligible for silk calculations. The term denier is generally used in this country as applying ex- clusively to raw silk. To indicate the size of thrown silk, the term dram is used. A 1 dram silk measures 1000 yards for a weight of one dram, which equals 256,000 yards per pound. A 2 dram silk is one-half this or 128,000 yards per pound. A 3 dram, 85,333 yards, and so on. To find the dramage of any given length per pound divide 256,000 by the yards. To find the yardage of any given dramage divide 256,000 by the drams. To reduce any given dramage to deniers multiply the dramage by 17.44. To reduce any given deniers to drams divide the deniers by 17.44. In figuring sizes of thrown silk always make due allowance for soap and oil, take up in twist, etc. 39 UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY TABLE OF LENGTHS OF YARDS OF SILK TO THE POUND IN SIZES 9/11 TO 16/18 DENIERS, TAKING THE AVERAGE OF THE SIZE Explanation: 1. The table gives the raw silk yards to the pound. 2. If thrown unsoaked, the silk is shortened about three per cent., depending on the varying twists and threads. 3. The difference between the raw and thrown silk boil-off, when added to this three per cent., indicates the num- ber of the table to be used up to ten. Illustration on page 21. (3) Thrown (4) 3% Shorten- RAW 3% Shortening ing 4. 1% Soap 16/18-1654 to 1754 255,100 to 270,600 247,400 to 262,500 244,900 to 259,800 16/18-1654 to 1754 15/17-1554 to 1654 270,600 to 288, "00 262,500to279,400 259,800 to 276, 500 15/17-1554 to 1654 14/16-1454 to 1554 288,000 to 307,900 279,400 to 298,700 276,500 to 295,600 14/16-1454 to 1554 13/15-1354 to 1454 307,900 to 330, 700 298,700 to 320, 800 295,600 to 317,500 13/15 1354 to 1454 12/14-1254 to 1354 330,700to 357,100 320,800 to 346,400 317,500 to 342, 800 12/14-1254 to 1354 11/13-1154 to 1254 357,100 to 388,200 346,400 to 376,600 342, 800 to 372, 700 11/13-1154 to 1254 10/12-1054 to 1154 388,200 to 425,200 376,600 to 412,400 372, 700 to 408,200 10/12-1054 to 1154 9/11- 954 to 1054 425, 200 to 4- 09,900 412,400 10455,800 408,200 to 451,100 9/11- 954 to 1054 ' ' (5) 3% Shorten- (6) 3% Shorten- (7) 3% Shorten- ing + 2% Soap ing + 3% Soap ing 4. 4% Soap 16/18-1654 to 1754 242,300to257,100 239,800to254,400 237,200 to 251, 700 16/18-1654 to 1754 15/17-1554 to 1654 257, 100 to 273,600 254, 400 to 270,700 251, 700 to 267,800 .15/17-1554 to 1654 14/16-1454 to 1554 273,600 to 292, 500 270,700 to 289,400 267,800 to 286,300 14/16-1454 to 1554 13/15 1354 to 1454 292, oOOto 314,200 289,400 to 310, 900 286,300 to 307,600 13/15-1354 to 1454 12/14-1254 to 1354 314,200 to 339,200 310,900 to 335,700 307,600 to 332, 100 12/14-1254 to 1354 11/13-1154 to 1254 339,200 to 338,800 335,700 to 364,SOO 332, 100 to 361, 000 11/13-1154 to 1254 10/12-1054 to 1154 368,800 to 403,900 364, 900 to 399,700 361, 000 to 395, 400 10/12-1054 to 1154 9/11- 954 to 1054 403,900 to 446,400 399,700 to 441, 700 395,400 to 437,000 9/11- 954 to 10~54 (8) 3% Shorten- (9) 3% Shorten- (10) 3% Shorten- ing + 5% Soap ing 4.6% Soap ing + 7% Soap 16/18 1854 to 1754 , 234,700to249,000 232,100 to 246,200 229,600 to 243,500 16/18-1654 to 1754 15/17-1554 to 1654 249,000 to 265,000 246,200 to 262 000 243,500 to 259, 200 15/17-1554 to 1654 14/16-1454 to 15J4 265,000 to 283,300 262,000 to 280,200 259,200 to 277,100 14/16-1454 to 1554 13/15 1354 to 1454 283,300 to 304,200 280,200 to 300,900 277,100 to 297,600 13/15-1354 to 1454 12/14-1254 to 1354 304.200 to 328,500 300,900 to 325,000 297,600 to 321,400 12/14-1254 to 1354 11/13-11}4 to 1254 328,500 to 357,100 325,000 to 353,300 321,400to 349,400 11/13-1154 to 1254 10/12-1054 to 11 54 357,100 to 391, 200 353,300 to 386,900 349,400 to 382, 700 10/12-1054 to 1154 9/11- 954 to 1054 391,200to432,300 386,900 to 427,600 382, 700 to 423 000 9/11- 954 to 1054 LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY POINTS OF INTEREST IN THE HISTORY OF SILK CONDITIONING 'I he first attempt to condition raw silk was made in 1684 in Italy, when a royal decree, issued the 15th of October of that year in Turin, in- formed both sellers and buyers of raw silk that there was a possibility of establishing the true weight of raw silk in an impartial manner. At that period the conditioning of silk was a private operation of good faith between the two parties interested. Gradually the necessity de- veloped for a public and disinterested testing house, andin 1724 the first conditioning house was founded in Turin and opened for public service on the 8th of April. The method of conditioning adopted was the following: Raw silk skeins were suspended on sticks and exposed to the open air for 24 hours in large, open rooms in order to obtain uniformity in the condition of moisture, of the silk. In summer time, the natural state of the atmosphere was considered propitious for the silk, whereas during the cooler part of the year the rooms were heated and the temperature of the air kept at 20 to 25 degrees Centigrade. A.t the end of this drying opration of 24 hours the raw silk was considered to be in the proper condition of moisture to change the ownership. On the 25th of March 1735 the King of Italy issued a decree en- trusting to the Consul of Trade the task of establishing detailed rules for the method of conditioning; also of appointing the manager and stipulat- ing the charges to be collected for the operation. The receipts went to the treasury of the Consulate of Trade, a fact which means that this first conditioning house was an official institution. In 1779 a merchant of Lyons, Mr. Rast-Maupas, made a trip through the whole of Italy and on his way back visited also the conditioning house in Turin. On his return to Lyons, Mr. Rast addressed to the Consul of Trade a request to be allowed to open a conditioning house in Lyons and asking for the exclusive right to condition raw silk for a period of 30 years. This request was rejected with the argument that the monopoly for conditioning silk could only be granted to the Board of Trade of Lyons, and not to a private individual. Consequently Mr. Rast being convinced of the necessity of such an institution, opened a conditioning house cmt of his own funds without any official protection. He adopted a somewhat different method cHt conditioning than the one used in Turin. Instead of hanging the silk in open rooms on sticks, he had boxes or par- titions of wire-grate, where the raw silk was placed in a loose manner and exposed to the freely passing air. Seller and buyer were present at the filling of these boxes which were then sealed. After 24 hours of drying, the seals were removed arid the silk weighed net in the presence of both UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY seller and buyer, and this weight was recognized as the official commercial weight of the silk. As in Turin the boxes were heated, or not, accord- ing to the season of the year. The Lyons system had the advantage of leaving the bale undivided and under seal, thus avoiding any mixing or theft. Mr. Rast was successful, and the success of his venture induced three other merchants of Lyons to establish similar conditioning houses. Con- sequently a strong competition amongst the four institutions sprang up with the result that the three younger concerns were ruined. The con- petition had affected the integrity of the operation, as improper means to influence the weight of the silk had been introduced in order to attract clients to these contestants, and these manipulations destroyed the good reputation of the" Lyons Trade. In order to overcome this drawback the Board of Trade of Lyons applied to the Central Government in Paris suggesting the amalgamation of the four private conditioning houses, and by seizing the business to run it as a monopoly under a very close supervision. Consequently, by decree of the 23rd Germinal XIII (5th April, 1805) Napoleon I. conferred on the Board of Trade of Lyons the monopoly for the conditioning of silk. The owners of the four private conditioning houses were forced to close and received a small compensation. In 1809 the Board of Trade voted the building of a new plant, and in 1814 the concern was opened for the public service. Until 1842 the method of con- ditioning remained unchanged. In 1831 a French engineer, Mr. Leon Talabot, tried to have a new system of conditioning adopted. But it was only after ten years of hard work and by innumerable tests of comparison that he succeeded in 1842 in convincing the Board of Trade and the Central Government of the superiority of his method over the old system. The collaborators of Mr. Leon Talabot were the two constructors Persoz and Rochat. At first Mr. Talabot had dried out the whole bale of silk by hot air, and then gave to the silk a certain amount of moisture. But the high temperature affected the fibre of the silk and the operation occupied too much time and was too expensive. He had then the idea of building the drying oven on a much smaller scale and instead of drying out the whole bale to use only samples from all parts of the bale. These samples were dried out until a complete state of dryness was obtained, that is to say until the heat had no more influence on the weight of the silk. By means of careful studies, and hundred of tests followed systematically for years, he had arrived at the conclusion that 10% negain of moisture is the natural specific state or condition of raw silk. Later on the percentage of allow- ance for regain was raised to 11% which is now the recognized standard throughout the silk trade of the world. Since 1842 nothing has been changed in this standard of establishing the commercial weight of the raw silk. Only the method of attaining the LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY absolute weight (dry weight) has changed occasionally by using different kinds of heating material, such as charcoal, gas, steam, electricity and others. Up to 1903 all the systems were in connection with the fact that the high chimney exerted a certain suction power from the ovens into the chimney. But this suction of air was variable and depended on the state of atmosphere, such as hot or cold weather, wind, rain, sunshine, each of these facts influencing the amount of draught in the chimney. All possible means were tried to counterbalance these effects by adopting regulating machinery of different systems, but without absolute success. Mr. Guiseppe Corti, the Manager of the Milan Conditioning House Cooperativa, conceived the idea, that instead of the suction power of the chimney, a ventilator or blower might be used to force the necessary amount of heated air through the ovens and silk and thus obtain the ab- solute weight of the silk samples. He constructed the machinery fit for the purpose and had it patented. At the present time all the important Conditioning Houses in Europe have adopted the Corti System, which means a good step forward, as the conditioning operation has been shortened by nearly one-half, and uni- formity of method obtained, which was unknown before. There are Conditioning Houses at the following points, as well as in some other places where the testing is principally on other fibres. Italy France Szvitserland Germany Austria England Milan (2) Turin Bergamo Lecco Como Florence Udine Messina Lyons St. Etienne St. Chamond Aubenas Avignon Calais Paris Marseilles Zurich Basel Crefeld Elberfeld Vienna Bradford UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY RAW SILK RULES AND REGULATIONS TO GOVERN TRANSACTIONS BETWEEN BUYERS AND SELLERS IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA Approved by the Raw Silk Division of the Silk Association May 18, 1908, and approved by the Board of Managers of the Silk As- sociation of America, May 22, 1908, by the following resolution : RESOLVED, That the Raw Silk Rules and Regulations to govern transactions be- tween Buyers and Sellers on the Raw Silk Market, which have been approved by the Raw Silk Division of the Silk Association of America, have been care- fully considered by the Board of Managers and approved by them. The Board feels justified in adopting them as rules to govern (in the absence of other special agreements), the adjudication of all disputes or claims which may be referred to the Arbitration Committee of the Silk Association of America for settlement. RULES NOTE. It is understood that nothing in the following rules shall be construed as waiving the right in individual transactions to make any special or distinct contrary agreement, but that the rules shall govern only in cases where no special or specific contract exists. SALES OF SPECIFIED OR IDENTIFIABLE LOTS OF SILK from stock, or to arrive, for prompt, or future delivery (as for instance, of a lot giving marks and numbers, or of Seller's purchase of such and such a date, or of a lot shipped on a specified steamer or date, or in any other manner identifiable and distinct from other silks), are cancelled by destruction of such silks by fire, flood, marine disaster, or other unavoidable casualty prior to delivery dates as called for by contract; or by the failure of Reeler, or by damage to, or de- struction of, the producing factory prior to delivery by the Reeler. NOTE. The buyer can protect himself at any time, by taking out additional marine insurance to any extent. SALES OF AN UNSPECIFIED LOT OF A GIVEN QUALITY, GRADE, CLASS AND SIZE OF SILK ( as for instance, a sale of 100 Bales Japan Filatures No. 1 at a given price and delivery), cannot be voided except by mutual consent of Buyer and Seller. Delay in actual transit, damage, or destruction of an unspecified lot of silk, where a similar lot is not obtainable on the New York market, gives the Seller a reasonable period (to be determined by Arbitra- tion in case of dispute) in which to replace. DELIVERIES. Sales for delivery on a given date, demand delivery or readiness for delivery on the date specified. LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY Sales for delivery on arrival on or about a given date, give Seller the right of delivery 15 days earlier or later than the date specified. Sales for delivery within a given period, give Seller the right of delivery at any time within the period specified, unless the con- tract calls for specific deliveries during said period. Seller should notify Buyer of readiness to deliver, in accord- ance with contract terms of delivery, and Buyer is under equal obligation to call for silk when due him, but inadvertent failure of either party to tender or call for delivery, shall not void contract where readiness to deliver can be proved. Delivery by Seller to common carrier, or Agent of Buyer, in compliance with oral or written instructions of Buyer, or party ordering shipment, is at the risk of said Buyer, or party ordering shipment. SHIPMENTS FROM ABROAD. Sales for shipment on or before a given date, demand shipment on or before the date specified. Sales for shipment on or about a given date, give Seller the right of shipment 15 days earlier or later than the date specified. Sales for shipment within a given period, give Seller the right of shipment at any time within the period specified, unless the con- tract calls for specific shipments during said period. Date of bill of lading shall be construed as giving date of shipment. DEFERRED DELIVERIES caused by request of Buyer, are at the risk of Buyer, who shall pay interest if incurred, storage and fire in- surance. FIRE INSURANCE. In case of total or partial loss by fire where silks remain in the custody of Seller for account of Buyer, whether actually billed up or held for deferred delivery (paid for or not), the amount due Seller becomes payable in accordance with terms of contract, and Seller shall credit Buyer with whatever amount may be recovered from the Underwriters on the lots in question. WEIGHTS Actual Weight and Tare is weight as taken at the time of de- livery, or billing date (if delivery is deferred), less actual tare of bags, papers and strings. Invoice Weight is net weight as invoiced by Seller or Seller's Agent at point from which originally shipped. Conditioned Weight. To ascertain conditioned weight of a lot of Asiatic silks sold on basis of conditioned weight, plus the percentages provided for the different classes of silk, at least two bales out of every five bales shall be tested at Conditioning House in New York. The average of all tests must be accepted as the 45 UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY basis for entire lot, and expense of conditioning divided equally be- tween Buyer and Seller. Questions Over Actual and/or Invoice Weight must be adjusted by Buyer notifying Seller that he wishes the lot rebilled to him conditioned weight plus the usual percentages, and Buyer must then send at least two original bales out of every five bales or less of the lot, to be conditioned at Conditioning House in New York, in accordance with the rule for "Conditioned Weight." Re- sult shall be accepted by Buyer and Seller, whether to their benefit or loss, and conditioning costs borne by losing party. Condition- ing tests by Buyer, or his Agent, before notifying Seller that con- ditioned weight will . be accepted, cancels Buyer's claim to weight adjustment, and proof that such prior conditioning tests have not been made must be furnished, if desired. Japan Silks, China Steam Filatures, Canton Filatures are sold New York conditioned weight plus 2 per cent., or actual weight, or invoice weight. China Rereels, Canton Rereels are sold conditioned weight plus 2H per cent, or actual weight, or invoice weight. European Silks are sold conditioned weight, and European Con- ditioning House tests must be accepted, unless Buyer chooses, at his own expense, to have the silk reconditioned in New York. Should the result be 1/3 of one per cent, less than European conditioned weights, Seller must accept the New York conditioned weights and pay costs of the re-conditioning; each bale to be treated indi- vidually. Tussahs are sold invoice weights, or actual weights carrying no guarantee of loss in weight by conditioning. Bale Weights. A contract calls for the delivery of a number of bales or pounds varying on the average not more than 5 per cent, from the following usual bale weights: Europeans 220 pounds net Japans 135 Shanghais 135 " " Tussahs 135 " " Cantons 106 2/3 Variation in weight beyond the allowed 5 per cent., shall not be cause for cancellation of contract, but may be adjusted with Seller at market rates at the time of delivery. ADULTERATION. Shanghai Rereels and Native Filatures are guaranteed by Seller not to lose more than 22 per cent, by boil off at Condition- ing House in New York. Buyer and Seller may have as many tests made as they see fit, at their own expense, and the average of all such tests shall govern. LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY VARIATION OF SIZE. The average size under contract shall not vary more than given below for different classes and grades uf silk. In case of dispute, Buyer and Seller may have as many tests made at Conditioning House in New York as they desire. The average of all tests on a bale shall determine the size of silks in the bale. For Asiatics, the average of all bales of a lot shall determine the aver- age of the lot, and if more than one-third of the bales in each individual lot are of wrong size, such entire lot may be rejected; otherwise, only the incorrect bales may be rejected. European bales are treated individually. Test skeins must be drawn from bales by the Conditioning House, and the total expense of such tests must be borne by the losing party. European Silks. European Conditioning House sizing tickets shall be final, unless demonstrated to be wrong by Conditioning House at New York. EXTRA CLASSICAL TO No. 1 INCLUSIVE 11/12 AND FINER shall not vary more than 3/8 denier either way from the average given on each and every bale. From 11/13 to 15/17 1/2 denier either way is allowed From 16/18 to 19/21 3/4 " From 20/22 to 24/26 7/8 " " " " From 25/27 to 28/30 1 " " " " FULLER, the variation is by agreement. Japans. Seller's sizing tests, or Yokohama Conditioning House sizing tickets shall be final, unless demonstrated to be wrong by Conditioning House at New York. FANCY AND DOUBLE EXTRA are governed by the same rule as Europeans. FILATURES AND REREELS, EXTRA TO No. 1/1^2 INCLUSIVE, and BEST EXTRA KAKEDAS 14/16 AND FINER, shall not vary more than 1/2 denier either way for the lot, and 1 denier for each bale, from the average given. FILA- TURES AND REREELS No. 1 1/2 TO No. 2 INCLUSIVE AND KAKEDAS EXTRA TO No. 1 INCLUSIVE 14/18 AND FINER, shall not vary more than 1 denier either way for the lot, and 1 1/2 denier for each bale, from the average given. LOWER GRADES carry no guarantee of size. SIZE 16/18 AND COARSER IN FILATURES No. 1 AND HIGHER GRADES shall not vary more than the European allowances for the lot, and 1/2 denier additional for each bale, from the average given. COARSE SIZES below No. 1 carry no guarantee of size. China Steam Filatures. Seller's si/ing tests shall be final, unless demonstrated to be wrong by Conditioning House at New York. FILATURES FIRST CATEGORY are governed by the rule for Europeans. FILATURES SECOND CATEGORY 14/16 AND FINER shall not vary more than 1/2 denier either way for the lot, and 1 denier for each bale, from the average given. FILATURES THIRD CATEGORY 14/16 AND FINER shall not vary more than 3/4 denier either way for the lot. and 1 denier for each bale, from the average given. UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY Shanghai Rereels, Native Filatures and Tussahs carry no guarantee of size. Canton Filatures. Seller's sizing tests shall be final, unless demonstrated to be wrong by Conditioning House at New York. DOUBLE EXTRA AND EXTRA 14/16 AND FINER shall not vary more than 3/4 denier either way for the lot, and 1 1/4 denier for each bale, from the average given. 16/20 TO 28/32 shall, not vary more than 1 1/2 denier either way for the lot, and 2 deniers for each bale, from the average given. FILATURES No. 1 14/16 AND FINER shall not vary more than 1 denier either way for the lot, and 1 1/2 denier for each bale, from the average given. Canton Filatures No. 2 and lower 1 Canton Rereels } carrv no S uarante e of size. REJECTIONS AND REPLACEMENTS. Any bales or lots rejected for proper cause must be replaced by Seller and accepted by Buyer within 15 days of rejection agreed to by Seller or established by arbitration. Where a lot of similar quality and size is not ob- tainable on the New York market, Seller must pay Buyer an allow- ance to cover market difference, if any. In case of a specified, un- inspected lot on a primary market of which all or a portion shall prove upon inspection not of the stipulated quality and/or size Seller must immediately notify Buyer, who shall have the option of cancelling such incorrect portion of the contract, or of instructing Seller to accept it with any allowance that he may be able to collect, or of giving the necessary time for replacement. CLAIMS FOR DIFFERENCES IN QUALITY AND/OR SIZE. Seller's obligation to deliver raw silk of contract quality and size is clearly defined. Buyer is under equal obligation to examine and test silk received, and promptly pass upon its quality and size as raw silk in the bale. This can be determined by testing sample skeins of the lot or one entire bale; Buyer must then accept, or immediately notify Seller of intention to reject the balance of the lot. All claims must be made within two weeks after delivery; and where silks remain in the custody of Seller for account of Buyer, the Buyer shall have three weeks from expiration of time for delivery in which to pass upon quality and size; after which periods no claims shall be ad- missible unless false or fraudulent packing can be shown. In no case can the Seller be held as guaranteeing the working of the silk, or its suitability to produce certain results, unless by special agreement. ARBITRATION. All differences arising between Buyer and Seller must be submitted to the Arbitration Committee of the Silk Association of America. LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOM E STREET, NEW YORK CITY SELLING TERMS The recognized rate of discount in the Silk Trade is 6 per cent, per annum when not otherwise stated or agreed. Offers of silk when not otherwise stated imply : 6 months basis for Asiatics. 60 days basis for Europeans. Six months, 4 Months, 3 Months, or 60 Day Notes. Such sales convey no right to discount. Within 30 days from date of bill. Buyer must give his note for the period specified, bearing same date as bill, drawn to his own order, blank endorsed and payable at discretionary points as denned by New York Clearing House. Six Months' Notes, or Cash Less 3 Per Cent, implies the right of Buyer to pay his bill within 10 days (which are not discountable) by deducting 3 per cent, from the face thereof; otherwise he must give 6 months' notes from date of bill as above provided. Four Months' Notes, or Cash Less 2 Per Cent, are governed in principle by the above terms. Ninety Days' Notes, or Cash Less 1 1/2 Per Cent, are governed in principle by the above terms. Ninety Days, Sixty Days, or Thirty Days requires that the bill must be paid within the time specified. Six Months' Basis, Payment Within 30 Days, or 60 Days or 90 Days (as written) requires payment at any time within period stated, with discount for unexpired portion of the six months. Six Months' Basis, Settlement by Note or Cash Within 30 Days, or 60 Days, or 90 Days (as written) gives Buyer the option of pay- ing (at any time within the stipulated period for settlement) in cash less discount for unexpired portion of the six months, or giving (at any time within the stipulated period for settlement) his six months' note from date of bill. Cash Sales less a stipulated discount require immediate payment of the bill less the specified discount. Bankers' Credit Sales require the Buyer to immediately furnish approved Credits at the usance agreed upon in the transaction. For such sales the Seller takes no responsibility for arrival, damage, loss or pilferage en route. Seller's failure to demand the Letter of Credit shall not be cause for voiding the contract. F. 0. B. Free on Board, i s the Shipper's invoice cost of the silk placed on board ship at port of original export ; Buyer must pro- vide and pay for marine insurance and freight. C. & F. Cost and Freight, is the Shipper's invoice cost including freight. C. F. & I. Cost, Freight and Insurance, is the Shipper's invoice cost including freight and marine insurance. UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY CLASSIFICATIONS OF RAW SILKS Adopted by Division A., June 15, 1908 At the request of the Board of Managers of the Silk Association of America, Division A. has carefully considered the classification names to apply to the various qualities of European Silk, and Japan Filatures, Rereels and Kakedas dealt in on the New York Market and have adopted the following: EUROPEAN SILKS. Grand Extra. Best No. 1. Extra Classical. No. 1. Best Classical. Realina. Classical. JAPAN SILKS. Filatures. Rereels. Double Extra. Extra. Extra. No. 1 Sinshiu Extra. No. 1-1^. Best No.-a to Extra. No. 1^. Best No. 1. No. 1^-2. Hard Nature No. 1. No. 2. No. 1 (of the grade of Sinshiu No. 2-2^. Okaya (Chicken) Summer No. 2^. reeling Season 1907-8. No. 3. No. l-iy 2 . Kakeda. No. iy 2 . Best Extra. No. iy 2 -2. Extra. No. 2. No. 1. No. 2. No. 3. The Board of Managers of the Silk Association of America at a meet- ing on June 10, 1908, approved the foregoing classification with the recom- mendation that the Raw Silk Division of the Association consider the feasibility of tabulating a set of descriptions with samples of raw silk to represent the agreed upon classification at the opening of each silk season. On June 15, 1908, the Raw Silk Division voted to endeavor to adopt a standard for No. 1 Filatures and rereels as soon after the opening of each silk season as sufficient silk shall have arrived in New York to give a fair representation of the average quality of the season's summer reelings, and this matter is now under consideration by them. It is believed that the deposit with the Silk Association of America at the opening of each silk season of a set of samples representing say five grades of silk would bring within the reach of both buyer and seller a standard to which offerings of parcels could be compared; thereby avoiding existing uncertainty and misapprehension as to qualities. LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY SILK THROWSTERS' ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA RULES AND REGULATIONS TO GOVERN TRANSACTIONS IN THROWING SILK (As Amended June 21, 1907.) Approved, respectively, by the Board of Managers of the Silk Associa- tion of America, February 13, 1907, and August 14, 1907. RESOLVED, That the Rules and Regulations of the Silk Throwsters' Association of America submitted to the Silk Association of America on January 5th, 1907, have been carefully considered by the Board of Managers of the Silk Associa- tion of America and are approved by .them. The Board feels justified in adopting them as rules to govern the adjudica- tion of disputes or settlement of claims between throwsters and weavers or whomsoever they may concern, where no other special agreements have been made, provided the owner of the raw silk has been furnished with a copy of the regulations of the Silk Throwsters' Association prior to the consignment of silk to be thrown. Article I. Winding Raw silk is single thread as reeled from the cocoons and known as (raw silk with knotted ends). It is understood to be a continuous thread from beginning to end of the skein and as a rule this class of silk must be such that one winder can attend to one hundred swifts with a thread speed of sixty yards per minute. Article II. Soaking Only such ingredients shall be added in soak- ing the silk as will boil out easily in the ordinary process of dyeing, and only such amounts as shall be necessary for the proper throwing of the silk, but not to exceed 5 per cent, gain in weight. Article III. Twist An average variation of 10 per cent, on organ- zine (20 test skeins) either way from the twist as ordered is permissible. On tram two and one-half to three turns per inch, a variation of one- half turn either way may be allowed. Article IV. Size The fineness of silk is determined by the size. The size is the number of deniers which a skein of a certain length weighs. The legal denier is a skein of silk four hundred and fifty metres long, wound in four hundred turns on a reel of one hundred and twelve and one-half centimeters in circumference and weighed by a unit of five centigrams (called denier). To establish the size of a lot of silk, ten skeins are taken from every bale and from different parts of the bale, and from each skein two test skeins are reeled off, on Japan silks, one inside and one outside skein. The weight of these test skeins is to be reduced to conditioned weight in case either of the parties to the transaction desires. On raw silk up to twenty deniers a margin of one-half denier average, above or below, is permissible; coarser sizes are treated as special articles. The regularity (evenness) of the thread of different grades shall be such that the difference between the finest and coarsest test skeins shall not be more than is decided by the Rules of the Silk Association of America. Article V. Reeling into Skeins An average variation of 5 per cent. shall be allowed from the number of yards per skein, as ordered for thrown silk. The minimum number of test skeins is twenty. The pro- UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY cedure is similar to that for sizing silk. Condition House rules to apply. Article VI. Price, Terms, Etc. The price for throwing is net cash, final settlement to be made on the average date of the return delivery of the product. The throwster is entitled to payment on account in proportion to his deliveries, and on completion of work when held for orders. Amendment adopted June 21, 1907: "Weights for throzving silk shall be estimated upon invoice weights, in no case less than condition weight plus (2) per cent., or upon condition weight, when given, plus two (2) per cent. Condition zveight, as here used, is found by adding eleven (11) per cent, to absolute dry weight, determined from samples by customary methods." Article VII. Payment of Transportation, Etc. The consignee pays the transportation charges on receipt of the raw silk; the consignor pays the transportation charges on the return of the thrown silk. Article VIII. Liability for Silk A commission throwster who ac- cepts a lot of raw silk for the manufacture of tram or organzine or any other operation, is responsible to the owner for the full value of the silk as long as it remains in his possession. The throwster must cover by insurance the loss of silk against fire while in his immediate possession. Article IX. Determination of Loss In order to establish a claim against a throwster for excess of loss in working, the whole parcel of raw silk to be thrown should be sent to the Condition Works to be tested for the conditioned weight, where skeins of the raw silk should be re- tained. The entire quantity of the thrown silk should be returned to the Condition Works to be reweighed for conditioned weight. The boil-off tests of the raw skeins so retained and the skeins of thrown silk should be tested simultaneously in the same process, and the boil-off established in this manner by the identical process; as the matter of boiling-off is so involved in uncertainty if done at different times. Five skeins of the raw silk should be retained from each bale, and three skeins of the thrown silk from each one hundred pounds for the boiling-off test. This is the generally accepted practice in Europe, and the matter of the amount of loss to be allowed in the actual working of a given silk (to oc arrived at as above stated) is universally a matter of agreement between the manufacturer and the throwster. The throwster is responsi- ble at the price agreed upon on receipt of the silk for an excess of loss above the amount agreed, and the owner is to pay the throwster at this price when any less loss is made than the amount as agreed. The manufacturer is to furnish a description of the raw silk, giving the origin, classification and grading, and is responsible to the throwster for a proper delivery of the raw silk as agreed upon. Duplicate tickets of all tests to be supplied to the throwster. (Signed) Silk Throwsters' Association of America. Attest: By JEROME C. READ, President. JAMES H. BRITTON, Secretary. LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOM E STJ'EET, NEW YORK CITY CUSTOMS PREVAILING IN THE SKEIN SILK DYEING TRADE OF THE UNITED STATES, SEPTEMBER, 1908 STORAGE AND INSURANCE The dyer provides safe and suitable storage for silk sent to him to dye, without charge to the customer, assumes liability for the loss, theft, or destruction of silk while in his possession, and keeps it fully insured. TRANSPORTATION CHARGES The dyer pays the transportation charges on the silk sent him to dye, unless otherwise agreed, and he delivers the dyed silk free within a short radius of his dye house. Transportation charges on dyed silk, shipped to a considerable distance, to be paid by the customer. PACKING The dyer when shipping the dyed silk is to have it safely and suitably packed, using such quality of paper, cords, and bagging as will insure the proper protection of the silk. WITHDRAWALS OF UNDYED SILK Should the customer order silk to be sent by the dyer to some other dye house, or to be returned to him undyed, he must reimburse the dyer for any money that has been expended by him for transportation charge, insurance, or storage of such silk. TIME OF DELIVERY OF ORDER Dyer must execute order with reasonable promptness. If silk is on hand at the dyer's, shipment back of the dyed silk may be expected in from one to three weeks, (according to circumstances and the nature of the work), from receipt of the order. PRICES, DISCOUNTS, AND TERMS Prices, discounts, and terms, are matters of mutual arrangement. A standard printed price list is generally used as a basis for prices. Bills are rendered at the end of each month, a common basis of settlement being cash within 30 days. ORDERS FOR WEIGHTING The dyer is obligated to deliver silk within the limits of the weighting ordered. Thus, 20-22 oz. is supposed not to run below 20 oz. and, unless by UNITED STATES SILK CONDITIONING COMPANY special agreement, a greater weight than 22 oz. cannot be claimed. If the weight comes less than 20 oz. the customer can claim the price corre- sponding with what it weighs. If, however, it runs over 22 oz., even when not specially agreed on, the dyer cannot charge more for the extra weight. WEIGHTING OF SILKS WITH VARYING BOIL-OFFS Whether the dyer treats silk having either a light or a heavy boil-off, his price is the same, though he is at greater expense in bringing up the weight of the silk that boils off most. (N. B. This is an anomaly that seems to need correction). MATCHING COLORS The dyer does not undertake to guarantee an exact match to sample, but does undertake to furnish a commercial match, that, is, a shade so close that fabrics made of it can be properly delivered as that color. If the customer finds on examination of dyed silk that same is off shade, or too dark, or too light, the dyer will make the necessary modification of the color, if it can be done without injury to the working qualities of the silk, without extra charge. If, through his error, the dyer puts on the silk the wrong color, or weighting, the customer may use the lot if he chooses to do so to the best advantage charging the dyer the loss, if any. If this is impossible the dyer may be required to pay for the silk at current market prices. SHADY SILK Should silk be found to be shady to an uncommercial degree and the defect be found not due to the nature of the silk the dyer must try and rectify the trouble at his own expense, and should this be impossible he may be required to keep and pay for the lot. Should the customer, before knowing of the trouble, have put such silk in work the dyer may not only be required to make right, or to take back and pay for, the silk, as already stated, but he should reimburse the customer for money actually spent in the winding, warping, quilling, etc., of such defective lot. He is not, however, to be held liable for damaged cloth, woven from such material, past the point where the defect should have become ap- parent, as the weaving of visibly imperfect goods should not be pro- ceeded with. The consequential damages in such cases due to standing looms. goods late for delivery, etc., fall upon the customer. ROTTEN SILK Should silk, originally sound, be returned from the dyer rotten, or seriously defective in strength, or should it while remaining in stock for a reasonable time after dyeing, and under proper conditions of storage, LABORATORY: 472-474 BROOME STREET, NEW YORK CITY develop such trouble, the dyer can be called on to take back and pay for the silk. If, however, the weighting ordered is beyond the bounds of pru- dence and the limitations of good practice, the dyer should promptly notify the customer to that effect, before proceeding with the order, and, should the customer then direct that the work be proceeded with, any loss that may arise if the silk turns out unsound must be borne by the owner. FAST COLORS Dyers are supposed to make their colors commercially fast for such ordinary purposes as the goods are used for. Customers wanting colors fast, i. e., not liable to change by light, washing, perspiration, or what not, must so specify in ordering, and charge for the work is made ac- cordingly. If the silk is ordered "fast" for certain uses, and is paid for on that basis, and claims should come upon the manufacturer for a deficiency in this respect when the fabric has been used under reasonable conditions, the dyer may properly be called on to make good such claims as the manu- facturer has had to allow. MIXED SILK Should the dyer mix one customer's silk with another's, or different lots of the same customer's silk, he is chargeable with the loss that may result. BAD WINDING When properly thrown silk is so handled in the dyeing that it is difficult to wind, and when in consequence the customer has to pay extra wages for the winding of it, and when excessive waste may be caused thereby, such loss in wages and waste is properly chargeable to the dyer. As souple dyed silks generally wind poorly, specific arrangement with dyer should be made regarding same. REMARKS All claims and complaints should be promptly made, clearly stated, and proper opportunity given the dyer to verify and check them off. The difficulty of dyeing and the chance of silk going wrong being very great, it is the duty of the manufacturer when a loss occurs that is chargeable to the dyer to try by all reasonable means in his power to minimize it, and each should do the best he can to help the other. When controversies occur between dyer and manufacturer, where each party thinks the other is unreasonable, recourse can always be had to an arbitration by the Silk Association of America. September, 1908. Unreliable cost units Hood the market with too cheap merchandise until the sheriff or the schoolmaster calls a halt. MANUFACTURER'S COST SHEETS On the following pages we present two forms for use in the making of cost calculations, one for Broad Silk and one for Ribbons, which are comprehensive in character, correct in principle, and which have worked well in practise. We believe that a careful study of these forms, and of the explana- tions regarding them, will be of interest and profit to manufacturers. The heavy faced type represents the written-in calculation, the other is the printed form. The various cost figures given therein are assumed simply for the purpose of illustration. It is needless to say that preliminary calculations should always be checked back and verified by actual results. BROAD SILK COST CALCULATION Date, January 1, 1909. Pattern Black Taffeta. Quality C. H. 100 Yds 35% Wide. Reeding 60/3. Width in Reed 36. Raw Warp 6416 Ends Organzine 1.65 Drams 4.96 Ibs. (g$5.95 $29.51 110 Yds " 2 Thd. 13/15 Den. 16/14 Turns " " Jap. Ex. Fil. $ " " " $ Selvages 108361 & 2 $ Total 6524 Ends Organzine $ Raw FILLING 88 Picks Tram 2.57 Drams 3.40 Ibs. @$5.81 $19.75 1 End 3 Thd. 3 Turns 13/15 Den. Jap. Fil. No. 1 $ Warping 110 Yds. 6524 Ends @ 3 per C $ 1.96 Twisting 6448 Ends @ 25 per M.= 1.62 -h3 $ .54 \Veaving 99 Yards @ 7 $ 6.93 Picking 99 Yards, @ 24 $ .75 Cleaning 99 Yards, @... $ Finishing 100 Yards, @ 1 $ 1.00 Cards and Designs 100 Yards (on basis of Yards made) $ General Expenses, 4.8090. . . 100 Yards, @ 5 1/3 $ 5.33 (For Piece Dye) Dyeing and Finishing... 100 Yards, @ . . . $ (For Ptd. Wps.) Weaving before Printing 110 Yards, @. . . $ " Printing 110 Yards, @ . . . $ " Rebeaming 110 Yards, @... $ " Retwisting Ends @ per M^3 $ Average Dyed Weight of 100 Yds. 8.17 Ibs. Net cost of 100 Yds., $65.77 Organzine weighted to 24/26 oz. Tram weighted to 30/32 oz. 4 per cent, is included in above figures for waste of warp. 7 " filling. 3 " twist take-up of warp and filling. PARTICULARS OF COST OF SILK. $ % ORGANZINE TRAM Raw Silk 32.76 .498 Raw Silk . . .$4.00 $3.80 Throwing 4.66 .071 Throwing .. .$ .70 $ .35 Waste .87 .013 Dyeing $1.00 $1.25 Winding ....$ .15 $ .15 .140 Doubling ....$.... $. ... Winding 1.25 .019 Quilling $. ... $ .15 Quilling .51 .008 fhr. Waste.. $ .10=2^% $ .11=3% Warping 1.96 .029 Total $5.95 $5.81 Twisting IT T- .54 .008 Weaving 6.93 .106 CONCLUSIONS. Picking .75 .011 Net Mill Cost $0.6577 Finishing 1.00 .015 Lowest Selling Cost 65.77 85. $0.7738 Estimated Selling Price, General Expense 5.33 .082 $0.85 Less 15%. . . .$0.1275 $0.7225 65.77 1~000 Weekly Product, per Loom. . .90 Yds. 57 Erroneous cost figures tend to poverty. REMARKS CONCERNING USE OF THE COST CALCULATION FORM, FOR BROAD SILK, SHOWN HEREWITH This form is for 100 yards finished cloth. A length of 110 yards warp is assumed as enough to cover take-up in weaving and unwoven ends of warp. This can be modified for goods with more or less take-up. The size, or dramage, of organzine and tram should be figured from Conditioning House Sizing tests, and should include an average take-up in twist of about 3%. The weight of silk for warp and filling should include waste in weav- ing and preparatory processes, and is here assumed as 4% for warp and 1% for filling, a very full figure if for plain goods. This can be modified according to experience but is an item that is generally under-estimated. Weights should be figured on Raw Conditioned basis. Waste in throwing is filled in under "Particulars of Cost of Silk" and the proper percentages will be shown by the Conditioning and Boil-off tests. In calculating filling the full width of warp in reed should be taken as the width. Warping cost is figured on a price for 100 ends of 100 meters (about 110 yards) length. Mills paying on another basis can use a different form. Total length of warp is assumed as sufficient to yield 300 yards of cloth. Twisting cost for the 100 yards is therefore marked as 1/3 of the total. For other length warps use a different divisor. Extra drawing-in expense can be here included. Weaving, picking and cleaning are based on 99 yards, as cloth when relieved from loom tension will creep in about 1%. This is recovered in finishing and is only a regain, not a gain as many suppose. When cleaning expenses have to be made for a line of goods experi- ence shows what percentage of pieces need cleaning and thus an average cost per yard can be arrived at. When mills do their finishing, throwing, or printing, the market prices should appear in cost sheet, the profit or loss thereby to mill appearing in the department accounts. "Cards and Designs" can be filled in according to the mill practise and character of the fabric. Special harness expenses, or loom mounting. can be here included. "General Expense" should include every charge upon the mill, ex- clusive of specific items here provided for. It should cover interest on capital, loans, and Commission House advances, depreciation, and every- thing except selling expense. The view here taken is that each loom should pay its share of the expense. Thus if a 500 loom mill has an annual Persistent unreliable estimates of cost spell bankruptcy. expense of $120,000, each loom has to be charged with $240.00 a year, or $4.80 a week. If a cloth weaves at rate of 80 yards weekly, 4.80-=-80=:6c. will be set down. Sixty yards a week would figure 8 cents. A greater or less charge can be apportioned to different classes of looms, wide, narrow, box, jac- quard, etc., but total earnings must equal total expense. There are other satisfactory methods of handling this important ques- tion but there is one most common ar.d most incorrect way of dealing with it that is, adding for expenses a percentage of cost. Figures so ob- tained are seldom right and often grossly wrong and misleading. The cost of Beaming has been here included in the General Expense^, but, if desired, it can be figured separately. If piece dyed goods lose in length see that proper allowance is made on the cost sheet. "Weaving before Printing" item is weaving in of the necessary bind- ing picks, every yard or so, to preserve pattern. In deciding what weightings to order, boil-off Conditioning House tests should be carefully studied so that proportion of weighting to actual silk fibre will be neither more or less than desired. Prices on Raw silks bought on different terms should be reduced to a uniform basis. If desired all cost sheets can be made on a settled base price for the raw silks, and additions to, or substractions from the costs so obtained can be made as required, according to market fluctuations. Lowest selling cost is arrived at by dividing net mill cost by 85, ex- perience showing the selling expenses and discounts of the average mill to approximate 15%. RIBBONS. The foregoing remarks will also apply to the cost calculation form for Ribbons which follows. An arbitrary figure of $12 a week has been assumed for the general expense per loom. Note that the principal items of cost are silk weaving and general expenses. Therefore, selection of proper raw silk, with the best throwing and dyeing, reduces these items by increased production and excellence of output. Within reasonable limits, a difference in price of the raw silk, throw- ing and dyeing is so small in percentage that it is easily regained in the manufacturing. RIBBON COST CALCULATION Date, January 1, 1908. Pattern Black Taffeta. Quality C. H. 100 Yds. Width 45 Lignes. Spaces 18. Reeding 60/3. Width 4 Inches. Raw Warp 726 Ends Organzine 1.65 Drams -58 Ibs. @$5.65 $ 3.28 110 Yds " 2 Thd. 13/15 Den. " 16/14 Turns" " Jap. Ex. Fil. $ " " " " $ Selvages 4824/2 " " " " $ Total 774 " " .."".. . $... Raw FILLING 88 Picks Tram 2.57 Drams -38 Ibs. @$5.81 1 End 3 Thd. 3 Turns 13/15 Den. Jap. Fil. No* 1 Warping 110 Yds. 774 Ends @ 3 per C Twisting 750 Ends @ 25 per M.= 18 -i-3 Weaving, 1.80 per cut -=-18-^10 99 Yards, @ 1 Picking, 24c. per piece 99 Yards, @ .075 Cleaning 99 Yards, @ Finishing, Blocking and Boxing 100 Yards, @ .45 Cards and Designs 100 Yards (on basis of Yards made) . . . 100 Yards, @ .89 ... 100 Yards, @ ... 110 Yards, @ ... 110 Yards, @ ...110 Yards, @ Ends @ per M-l-3 General Expenses, $12-^18-1-75 (For Piece Dye) Dyeing and Finishing (For Ptd. Wps.) Weaving before Printing Printing Rebeaming and Spacing Retwisting Average Dyed Weight of 100 Yds. 1.42 Ibs. Net cost of 100 Yds., Organzine weighted to 20/22 oz. Tram weighted to 30/32 O z. 2.21 .23 .06 .99 .08 .45 .89 8.19 included in above figu: for waste of warp, filling. " twist take-up of wa $8.19-^-10 .82 $.82^45=1.82 id filling. PARTICULARS OF COST OF SILK. Raw Silk Throwing Dyeing .. Winding Doubling Quilling Thr. Waste.. ORGANZINE . .$4.00 ..$.70 ..$.70 ...$ .15 .io=2y 2 % Total . . . .$5.65 CONCLUSIONS. $5.81 Net Mill Cost, per Ligne $0.0182 Net Mill Cost, per Piece $0.82 Lowest Selling Cost 82-^85. . .$0.965 Estimated Selling Price $1-10 Less 15% .... .$0.165 $0.935 Weekly Product, per Loom, per Space 75 Yds. Raw Throwing Dyeing Winding Quilling Waste Warping Twisting Weaving Picking Finishing, Blocking and Boxing General Expense .... $ 3.76 .54 .88 .15 .06 .10 .23 .06 .99 .08 .45 .89 .459 .066 .108 .018 .007 .012 .028 .007 .121 .010 .055 .109 8.19 1.000 60 Conditioning Houses supply only the information ivhich can be expressed in figures. DON'TS Don't fail to see that intelligent and regular use is made of your Conditioning House reports. This is often neglected. If carefully used the small cost of these tests will be, either directly or indirectly, re- turned to you many fold. Don't believe in any testing, unless made by persons properly trained, and with accurate instruments. Europe discovered the need of exact methods years ago. Don't look on Conditioning House charges as an expense to be avoided if possible. The salary of a weighmaster, or an employee to measure goods, is considered a necessary expense of a business, and while it could be avoided by accepting weights and measures as delivered by seller no sensible person would do so. With such an expensive and moisture absorbing material as silk the check-off of the Conditioning House is just as vital. Don't forget that the foremost, smartest, and most economical houses use the Conditioning House freely and regularly and find a saving in so doing. Can you afford not to? Don't forget that all people, including raw silk importers and throws- ters, are human. Therefore who is most apt to get a lot of raw silk that is in some way questionable? With whose silk is the average throwster likely to exercise the least care in the matter of waste, etc.? Why of course with those houses that do not regularly pass their raw and thrown silk through the Conditioning House. Don't think that the United States Silk Conditioning House simply exists as an institution for preventing trickery. Its function is to enable the trade to know with aboslute certainty what weights, yardage, etc., etc., of silk, they are getting for the dollars they are paying out. At the same time the general use by the trade of Conditioning House Tests in all transactions would practically eliminate questionable practices. Don't forget that, if for no other reason, it pays to set an example for care and accuracy by the free use of the Conditioning House facilities as it will help to make such use the general custom, and when practically everybody tests his silk we will see fewer absurd prices for goods made by those who will not take the pains to find out just what their goods do cost them. Don't make claims on raw silk houses, throwsters, dyers or finishers, until you are entirely sure of your ground, and the facilities offered by the Conditioning House will be found of the greatest service in the proving of all just claims, and by their use much misunderstanding may be avoided. Don't hesitate to ask freely for information on any points that may not appear to be clear. We welcome enquiries and suggestions. al use of conditioning tests will eliminate unfair and unnt competition from all branches of the business and is in the line of true costing of silk merchandise. Don't expect something for nothing. Exact information costs money to arrive at and is worth paying for. What costs nothing is generally worth nothing. Don't expect the Conditioning House e to tell you how to manufacture goods, or to say what sort of silks you should use for particular purposes. Don't ask the Conditioning House to pass on the classification of any particular lot of silk. As no exact standards exist, at present, there is no basis for exact decisions. Don't be too sure that, even in your own throwing plant, you know exactly the waste you are making. Much waste is made that never finds its way to the waste bag. An occasional Combination Test by the Con- ditioning House is a very useful check. Don't overlook the fact that the greater the boil-off the less silk fibre you get for your money, and boil-offs differ widely. Makers of grege goods for piece dye, etc., should know the boil-off of the different lots they receive and the Conditioning House can tell them. Don't be penny wise and pound foolish. If every bale of raw or thrown silk was regularly subjected to all the Conditioning Tests the total cost would be a very small addition to the cost of the silk. The unseen losses that may and do occur from a lack of the proper knowledge will run into astonishingly large figures. Don't think that even when you do your own throwing tha"t you know all about the dramage of a lot by figuring out the length and number of the skeins, and that there is no use in having sizing tests made. This is a most erroneous supposition. When a garment maker buys cloth he does not cut up his goods and trust to the length holding out for as many garments as it should. He would be a poor manufacturer if he did not measure his goods first. Don't forget that silk is not the only material in need of testing. Fine cottons, worsteds, etc., are expensive and need checking off just as much. Don't forget that the United States Conditioning Company is not operated as a money making enterprise. It is designed to promote the general welfare of the trade, and many experienced and capable men ate giving much time, thought, and money in its service without thought of any direct commercial return. Manufacturers should show an appreciation of this by making free and constant use of its facilities, and those who do, will find that they will be well rewarded in the close control of their business that it will give them. INDEX Adulterations of Shanghai rereels, etc 46 Annual consumption of raw silk in United States and Europe 6 Arbitrations 4, 44, 48, 51, 55 Asiatic silks, allowable moisture 46 Authorized Official Testing House of Silk Association of America 4 Bad winding of dyed silk 55 Blair's International Yarn Tables 33-38 Boil-off certificate 18 Boil-off, difference between Conditioning House and dyer's 19 Boil-off in dyeing, variations 54 Boil-off tests of raw and thrown silk 19, 52 Boil-off tests, variation in 7 Broad silk cost calculation 57 Canton filatures, selling weights 46 Canton filatures, variation in size 48 Canton rereels, selling weights 46 Carded silk, regain in weight 27 Certificates, rules regarding deliveries of 28 China native filatures, no guarantee of size 48 China rereels, selling weights 40 China steam filatures, selling weights 46 China steam filatures, variation in size 47 Claims against dyers 55 Claims against throwsters 52 Claims for difference in quality, or size, of raw silk 48 Classifications of raw silk 50 Color matching in dyeing 54 Combination test, description of 22 Combination test, value of 22, 28 Compound sizing test, description of 15 Conditioned weight certificate 8 Conditioned weight, plus 2%, for raw silk purchases 11 Conditioned weight, plus 2%, explanation of 11 Conditioned weight tests, variation in 7 Conditioning, description of process 9, 10, 26 Conditioning House rules and regulations 26-28 Conditioning houses in Europe, where located 43 Conditioning, Corti system 6, 43 Conditioning, Talabot system 42-43 Conditioning tests, when inconclusive 26 Contents * 3 Controversies settled by Board of Arbitration of Silk Association of America 4, 44, 48, 51, 5& Cost calculation, broad silk 57 Cost calculation, ribbon 60 Cost sheets, manufacturer's 56-60 Cotton and cotton yarn, regain in weight 27 Cotton and wool mixed yarn, regain in weight 27 Cotton yarn tests, importance of 21 Customs prevailing in skein silk dyeing trade 53-55 Deferred deliveries of raw silk 45 Delivery by dyers of silk ordered dyed 53 Deliveries of raw silk, rules regarding same 44-45 Deniers and drams, rule for interchanging 39 Denier, length per pound 15 Denier, what it is 15, 27 Directors of United States Silk Conditioning Company 5 Disputes and differences settled by Board of Arbitration of Silk Association of America , 4, 44, 48, 51, 55 Don'ts 61-62 Drams and deniers, equivalents of 34-38 Drams, rule for finding yardage 39 63 INDEX Continued PAGE Dram system of counts 39 Dyed silk packing 53 Dyeing, results due to different boil-off s 24-25 Dyeing, value of boil-off tests 24-25 Dyer's liability for loss, etc., of silk 53 Dyer's prices, discounts and terms 53 Elasticity and Tenacity of thrown silk 16 Elasticity and Tenacity, averages. 16 Elasticity and Tenacity tests, how expressed 16, 27 Elasticity and Tenacity tests, variation in 7, 16 Equivalents of drams and deniers 34-38 Equivalents, metric 29 Equivalents of ounces in decimals of pounds 32 Equivalents of pound weights in kilos and decimals 31 European silks, classified 50 European silks, selling weights 46 European silks, variation in size 47 Excessive weighting, if ordered 55 Executive Committee of United States Silk Conditioning Company 5 Fast colors 55 Foreword 6-7 General expenses of mills, method of figuring 5S-&9 History of silk conditioning 41-43 Inconclusive conditioning tests 26 Index 63-66 nspection test, description of process 17 nsurance on raw silk 45 nsurance on silk at dyer's 53 nsurance on silk at throwster's 52 nternational system of yarn counts 33 nternational yarn tables 3338 nvoice of raw silk 10 Japan silk classification 50 Japan silks, selling weights 46 Japan silks, variations in size 47 Jute nd jute yarns, regain in weight 27 Kakeda silk classifications 50 Lacings of skeins not considered as tare 26 Lengths of silk per pound, table of 39.40 Length per pound of one denier silk 15 ? 39 Length per pound, rule for finding dramage 39 Limitations and variations of raw silk sizes 47-48 Limit of time for making claims on raw silk 4g Linen and linen yarn, regain in weight 27 Loss in throwing, illustrations 23 "Lousiness" of dyed silk ]" 17 Manufacturers' cost sheets 56 . 60 Matching colors in dyeing 54 Measures and weights, tables of \[[ 29 Measuring certificate OQ Measuring length of skeins, description of process 21 Measuring tests, variation in '.'.'.'.'. 7 Metric equivalents of weights and measures 29 Meter, exact length in inches '.'.'.'.'.'. 29 39 Metric weight equivalents in pounds and decimals ' 30 INDEX Continued PAGE Mixed silk, responsibility of dyer 55 Moisture allowable in Asiatic silks 46 Moisture in silk 9, 26, 27 Officers of United States Silk Conditioning Company 5 Official testing house, United States Silk Conditioning Company 4 Ounce weight equivalents in decimals of the pound 32 Packing of dyed silk 53 Payments for testing, by whom to be made 28 Percentages of regain 27 Photograph of Corti conditioning oven in operation at United States Silk Con- ditioning Company, New York Frontispiece Photograph showing accurate weighing of samples at United States Silk Con- ditioning Company, New York 7 A Points of interest in the history of silk conditioning 41-43 Pound weight equivalents in kilos and decimals 31 Price of shares in United States Silk Conditioning Company 5 Price list of United States Silk Conditioning Company 28 Prices, discounts and terms for dyeing 53 Principle of conditioning 7 Ravelings, or "lousiness," of dyed silk 17 Raw silk, Asiatic, allowable moisture 46 Raw silk bale weights and allowable variation 46 Raw silk classifications 50 Raw silk invoice 10 Raw silk purchase on basis of conditioned weight, plus 2% 11 Raw silk sizes, limitations and variations 47-48 Raw silk weights, how understood 45 Raw silk yards per pound, table of 40 Regain in weight of silk 9, 27 Regain in weight of various textile fibres 27 Rejections and replacements of raw silk 48 Remarks on use of manufacturers' cost calculations 58-59 Resolution of the Board of Managers of the Silk Association of America 4 Ribbon cost calculation 60 Rotten silk 54 Rules and Regulations for handling silk 26-28 Rules and Regulations of silk throwsters 51-52 Rule for interchanging deniers and drams 39 Rule of seven fours 39 Rules governing transactions in raw silk 44-49 Rules regarding delivery of certificates 28 Sales of specified lots of raw silk 44 Sales of unspecified lots of raw silk 44 Samples of raw silk on which to base classification 50 Schappe silk, regain in weight 27 Secrecy of all tests 26 Selling terms in raw silk trade 49 Shady silk 54 Shanghai rereels, no guarantee of size 48 Shipments of raw silk from abroad 45 Silk and wool mixed yarn, regain in weight 27 Silk conditioning, Points of interest in History of 41-43 Silk conditioning, Corti system 6, 43 Silk conditioning, Talabot system 42-43 Silk mixed at dyehouse 55 Silk, regain in weight 9, 27 Silk throwsters' Rules and Regulations . 51-52 Sizes of raw silk, limitations and variations 47-48 Size variation allowable in raw silk purchases 47-48 Sizing certificate 14 INDEX Continued PAGE Sizing, description of compound test ....................................... 15 Sizing tests, description of process ...................................... 15, 27, 51 Sizing tests, variation in ................................................. 7 Skein silk dyeing, customs of the trade ..................................... 53-55 Soaking in throwing, limit of allowable gain ................................ 51 Soaking in throwing, substances to be used .................................. 51 Souple dyed silk .......................................................... 55 Spun silk, regain in weight ................................................ 27 Stockholders of the United States Silk Conditioning Company ............... 5 Storage of silk sent to dyer ................................................ &3 Table of lengths of silk per pound .......................................... 39-40 Take-up in twist of thrown silk ............................................ 21, 39 Talabot system of silk conditioning ......................................... 42-43 Tare, what it includes ................................................ 9, 13, 26, 45 Tenacity, table of averages ................................................ 16 Tenacity tests ............................................................. 16 Terms governing sales of raw silk .......................................... 49 Thrown silk, elasticity and tenacity of ...................................... 16 Thrown silk, variation in length of skeins ................................... 51 Thrown silk, variation in twist ............................................. 51 Throwsters' charges, weights on which based ................................ 52 Throwsters' clearances, illustrations ......................................... 23 Throwsters' liability for loss, etc., of silk ................................... 52 Throwsters' limitations as to use of soap and oil ............................. 51 Throwsters' Rules and Regulations ......................................... 51-52 Throwsters' waste or loss, how shown ...................................... 52 Time to be allowed for dyeing silk ......................................... 53 Tow and tow yarn, regain in weight ........................................ 27 Transportation charges on silk sent to dyer ................................. 53 Transportation charges on silk sent to throwster ............................ 52 Tsatlees. See China and Shanghai native filatures and rereels ................ 46, 48 Tussahs, selling weights ................................................... 46 Twist certificate ........................................................... 14 Twist tests, description of process .......................................... 16, 27 Twist tests, variation in ................................................... 7, 16 Undyed silk, withdrawals from dyer ........................................ 53 Value of Conditioning ..................................................... 67 Variation in length of thrown silk skeins ................................... 51 Variation allowable in size of raw silk ...................................... 47-48 Variation in tests ......................................................... 7 Variation in twist of thrown silk ........................................... 51 Value of tests in dyeing ................................................ 34 Waste, or loss, in throwing, how to prove ................................... 52 Weighing bales in shirts and with tare ..................................... 13 Weighing certificate ....................................................... 12 Weighting orders for dyeing, limits of variation ............................. 53 Weighting ordered, when excessive ........................................ 55 Weighting silks of different boil-off s ........................................ 5.4 Weights and measures, table of ............................................ 29 Weights of raw silk bales and allowable variations ........................... 46 Weights of raw silk purchases, how understood .............................. 45-46 Weights on which throwsters' charges are based ......................... 52 Withdrawals from dyer of undyed silk ......................... ..'...'..'.'.'.'.'. 53 Wool and cotton mixed yarn, regain in weight ......................... 27 Wool and silk mixed yarn, regain in weight ................... . ........ 27 Wool, carded, and wool waste, regain in weight .................... 27 Wool yarn, regain in weight ............................................... 27 Yards per pound of raw and thrown silk, table .............................. 40 Yarn counts, International System ........... oo THE VALUE OF CONDITIONING FOR WEIGHT. You know exactly how many pounds you should pay for. Pages 9-11, 45-46 FOR VARIATION IN SIZE, AND FOR AVERAGE SIZE. You are shown the regularity of the silk, and the average yardage per pound. Pages 15, 47 FOR ELASTICITY AND TENACITY. Enables you to select the right lots for different fabrics, thus helping production. Even the best silks, and of the same mark, vary widely. Page 16 INSPECTION TEST. Is a guide in examining quality before acceptance. Pages 17, 48 BOIL-OFF TEST. Shows returns and clearances from the throwing. Shows the proper amount of weighting to order from dyer. Pages 19, 23-25, 52 FOR TWIST. Showing if your silk has been twisted as ordered. Page 16 MEASURING TEST. Tells you if your skeins are of proper length. Page 21 COMBINATION TEST. Automatically keeps you posted in several important directions. Pages 22-23 The cost of complete tests for every bale of raw and thrown silk used would be only about half of one per cent, of the cost of the output. In Europe this expense is considered as much a part of the manufacturing cost as any of the mechanical operations. The American manufacturer should recognize this truth. Regular and thorough testing saves its cost many fold in preventing mistakes as well as in tangible gains. WE DESIRE INQUIRY AND WILL GLADLY GIVE INFORMATION OR EXPLANATION REGARDING THE CONTENTS OF THIS BOOK. University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. KUrDUHJKL MAT SRLJF QL REC'D LD-URL 31995 THU; LIBRARY UNIVE4fc-ITr *TS 114*9 U58c UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILI1 A 000528308 o r