.aX AC iv ANN£X 02U •, 7 o VCtSWlCA- i AND Its California .egional acility K K S W I C K %\\)i its llciqljboiirljoob. *^;^:^:^i. KESWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD HAND-BOOK FOR THE USE OF VISITORS, TO ALL THE SCENERY, NOOKS, AND CORNERS OF THE DLSTRICT; itj) a Unique Pap, SltEWING THE CARRIAGE ROADS, USUAL SAILING ROUTE ROUNB THE LAKE, AND THE FOOT-PATHS OPEN. TO THE PTTBLIC, AND FRONTISPIECE WINDERMERE: GARNETT. LONDON: WHITTAKEH AND CO. 1852. INDEX. CHAPTER I. Keswick Moot Hall Model, Flintoft's . Odd-Fellows' Hall "Wesleyan Chapel Charity House, Sir John Banks' . Post Office Cumberland Union Bank ' Crosthwaite's Museum Mechanics' Institute Woollen Manufactures Pencil Manufactures St. John's Church Infant School, &c. Keswick Library Higfh Street Chapel Independents' Chapel . Historical and Etymolog-ical Notice of Keswick PAGE. 1 3 3 4 4 4 6 8 9 9 10 10 n 13 13 14 TOUR I. Lake, The Road to Crow Park, a favourable station Friar's Crag Vicar's Island Lord's Island Derwentwater Family, some account of . 19 . 20 . 20 . 21 . 23 . 24 V. INDEX. PAGE. Bcarrow Cascade . . . . .27 Lodore Waterfall . . . . 28 Southey's Description of Lodore . . .29 Derwentwater Bay . . . . . 30 St. Herbert's Island . . . .31 Bede's Story of St. Herbert . . . . 32 Wordsworth's Inscription for his Cell . . 34 Lake Derwentwater, principal features connected with . 35 "Dr. Syntax," quoted . . . . 36 TOUR II. Greta Hall Southey Crostlnvaite Sunday School Girls' School of Industry Crosthwaite Church Southey's Monument Crosthwaite Free Grammar School Vicarage Hill Crosthwaite, Ancient Village of Portinscale, Village of Faw Park . Skelgill and Gutherscale Swinside, Ascent of TOUR III. Druid's Temple, Road to River Greta Wordsworth's Sonnet on the River Greta Latrigg Side, Walk up Brigham School Forge, Village of Bryery, Village of Mineral Spring Druids' Temple described View from Druids' Temple Mrs. Ratcliffe quoted Castlerigg Brow, View from Walla Crag, Ascent of Castlehead, Rock of Great Wood, Walk throuKh 39 40 43 43 44 46 49 52 52 63 53 53 53 56 55 56 57 57 68 58 68 60 60 61 61 62 63 64 TOUR IV. FAGE. Skidduw, Road to, pointed out . . .66 Skiddaw, Ascent of . . , . . G7 Valeof St. John, Road to . .72 Threlkeld, Notice of . . . . 73 Threlkeld Hall . . . . ,74 ** The Good Lord Clifford" . . . . 75 Vale of St. John, Hutchinson, quoted on . 76 Sir Walter Scott's Bridal of Triermain, quotations from . 77 Watendlath, Vale of . . . .79 Gilpin, quoted . . , . . 80 Rosthwaite, Borrow dale . . . .81 Bowderstone, &c. . . . . . 81 Grange, Village of . . , .81 Gray's Letters . . , . . 82 ITINERARY. Land Circuit of Lake Derwent . . .92 Land Circuit of Bassenthwaite Lake . . , 93 To Buttermere, through Newlands . .93 To Buttermere, through Borrowdale . . . 93 To Scale Hill and Buttermere, by Whinlatter . 94 Wastwater, by Borrowdale . . . 94 CHAPTKR 1. Icsfoitli * * * * Small, but then it matters not ; At this we ought not to repine, for 'twas its lot. The site was much against its being bigger— for the hills Encircled it like walls; besides, some pencil mills, And other petty mills, were all that it could claim To give it that which could ensure it pomp and fame; And then 'twas last in fashion — every thing — the gas Had been laid down short time ago — a railroad-pass Was deemed impossible — so that, in short, more rural spot Could scarce be found from Cornwall to the John O'Groat. Keswiciv has long been justly considered, at once, both the centre and the metropolis of the English Lake Distpjct. From this place, as a principal station, the surroiuiduig regions may be conveniently ' gauged ' in all dii-ections, and the northern and chief portion of our Lake-land thus visited in a series of pleasing Excursions. The summits, too, of the three highest ranges of our l^^nglish Mountains — .Skiddaw. Helvellyn, and 8cawfell — comparatively easy of access, ;ind commanding on all sides extensive and magnificent pros- j)ects, are within a few hours reach, rendering this a favoiu-- able station whence a mountain ascent may be undertaken. Valleys, in many respects of an Alpine character, Mountain Passes of considerable elevation and great natural sublimity, secluded Dales and deep Glens may be traversed in a, day's 13 2 KESWICK ANT) ITS NEIGIIBOUBHOOD. journey, while, in the more immediate neighbourhood, scenery of a totally different character — still more rich and pleasing in its contrast — everywhere greets the eye of the traveller. A richly-diversified landscape of mingled wood- land and pastui-e, luxuriant corn-fields and verdant meadow, changing in combmatiou with each successive change of position, and in which, from most points, the pleasant waters of the Lake with its fairy islands form a prominent feature, the whole encircled by the bold and well-defined mountain masses, whose ridges serve as a clear and distinct boundary- line of vision, affords to tlie lovers of the picturesque, scenes aUke pleasing and surprising. Hence the Tourist who visits this interesting part of our Island for the purpose of making liimself more intimately acquainted with the characteristics of its scenery than a hasty perambulation over its principal roads will admit, usually takes up his head-quarters here for a few days at least. The reader is supposed, then, to be located for this pur- pose at one of the prmcipal hotels, or some one of the many comfortable lodging-houses with which the toAvn and neigh- bourhood abound for the accommodation of visitors. It is l)roposed in this little IIand-Book to convey such informa- tion of a local character as may be deemed likely to in- terest a stranger, and, by means of the accompanying Map, to conduct liim durmg the morning and evening hours, or at such times as the weather may not permit a longer excursion to be undertaken, to the cliief points of interest in the vicinity of the to^vn. It need scarcely be premised that the reader is not expected in all cases to limit himself to the exact luie of route laid down, or to avail himself of the order in which the several Excursions are here observed. The nature of the work obviously demanded some such methodical arrangement as has been observed; the most natural has therefore been adopted. Each Excursion is supposed to commence at the Town Hall, us forming at once the most conspicuous and convenient KESWICK. 3 centre. In de.scribing, therefore, the Public Buildings, In- stitutions of the Town, &c., we begin with this, locally termed THE MOOT HALL, which is the proijerty of the Lord of the Manor of Derwent, Reginald Dykes Marshall, Esq. (at present a minor), and forms part of the Derwentwater estate, hereafter to be no- ticed. The ground-floor of this building is used as a market- house (Satm-days) for butter, eggs, poidtry, bread-stuffs, &c. A spacious room overhead serves as a Court-house, in vvliich the weekly petty sessions of the district are held. A Manorial Court, or Court Leet, is also held here annually, in the month of May, for the purpose of receiving fines, adjusting tenements held under the manorship, &c. The bell upon which the clock strikes is of great antiquity, bearing the date 1001, with the letters HDRO. It is said to have originally been the curfew bell, and was brought to this place, together with a considerable portion of the maierial of the present building, from the seat of the Earl of Derwentwater, formerly situate on the Lord's Island. In this room is exhibited, during the summer months, the well-known Model of the Enylish Lake District, constructed, after many years of persevering labour, by the proprietor, J. Flintoft, Esq. Few travellers making the tour of the Lakes omit the inspection of this rare work of art. The visitor will here see before him an accurate delineation of the natural features of the country over which he may have already travelled, or through which he may still be intending to pass, with every object minutely laid down. Wliilst the different systems of mountains, valleys, lakes, and rivers may be comprehended at a glance, this renders it valuable as a specimen of geographical modelling. The whole is beautifully coloured after nature. We believe that Dr. Buckland, Professor Sedgwick, the late Dr. Dalton, of Manchester, himself a native of Cumberland, and most of the eminent savans of the day, have, at several times in- spected this model, and passed high eulogiums upon its merits. B 2 4 KESWICK AM) ITS NEIGHBOURUOOD. Near to the Town Hall, but removed from the front street, is the * odd-fellows' hall, Consisting of a large room of somewhat ornamental style of architectm-e, with offices attached, erected in the summer of 1850, by the St. Herbert's Lodge of Odd-FeUows, of the Manchester Unity. This society, comprising a respectable portion of the inhabitants of the district, numbers about two hundred members, and completed its twenty-first an- niversary in May of the present year. THE WESLEYAN CHAPEL, Likewise at some little distance from the front street, is situated in this quarter of the town. It is a plain building, without architectural ornament of any kind. This place of worship is numerously and respectably attended. Service twice every Sabbath, commencing at half-past ten a. m., and six p. m. Rev. J. Chalmers, M. A. minister. SIR JOHN bank's CUARITV HOUSE, Where are comfortably supported eighteen of the aged and indigent of the parish of Crosthwaite, stands about one hun- dred and fifty yards to the north of the Town Hall. The founder, Sir John Banks, was a native of Keswick, where he received the rudiments of liis education. He subsequently entered Queen's College, O.xford, thence became a student at Gray's Inn, London, received the appointment of Attorney to Prince Charles, and a. d. 1640 was made Lord Chief Justice of the Court of Common Pleas. In the above and following years lie foiTned one of the privy councillors assembled round the unfortunate Charles I. at O.xford, where he died during the heat of the civil wars in the year 1644. His remains were interred in the cathedral of that city. By KESWICK. 5 his will he left two hundred i)ouiid>* in money, with a yearly rent-charge of thirty pounds out of his lands situate in the pari.-^h of Crosthwaite, for the suj)p(n't of the poor. This rent-charge has cousiderahly increased since the time of the donor, and the sum of five hundred pounds has heen added to it in the present year out of a private bequest left for charitable purposes. The charity is under the management of life-trustees, THE POST-OFFICE Is situated in part of the conspicuous building known as Crosthwaite's Museum, about two hundred yards to the north of the Town Hall. Mr. J. F. Crosthwaite, iH)stmaster. The delivery of letters, from all jwirts, takes place once a day between the hours of twelve and one p. m. Letters posted before 1 50 p. m. are despatched south, by way of Windermere, and re every day (except Sundays) from nine in the morning to nine in the evening. " 2nd. — Half-yearly tickets, price three shillings, which entitle their possessor to the use of the room and books (Sundays excepted) every day in the week from six in the morning to nine in the evening. " 3rd. — Tickets, price half-a-erowii, which will entitle visitors to the same privileges as those of the possessors of first class tickets, for the space of one month. " It is wished that it should be distinctly understood that the present scheme of this Library is in a great measure merely experimental. It is an attempt to ascertain what amount there may be of desire for self-culture in this neigh- bourhood, and then gradually both to stimulate and satisfy it. It has been provided, therefore, as a means of education rather than of mere recreation ; as a jdace for read- ing specially and not for conversation. " All the books may be freely used ])y every one admitted into the Library, but it is forbidden that any books should be taken out of the room." By a recent regulation " it is now proposed to extend still KESWICK. . 13 furtlier the advimtag-es of the Libraiy, and to admit a still greater number of persons to a share in its privileges, by allowing a portion of the books to be borrowed by the sub- subscribers for reading at their owii liomes." Under this arrangement a fourth class of tickets is issued, admitting ladies to all the privileges of the room. Quarterly tickets are also granted to all the classes. The number of volumes permitted to circulate is about five hundred and fifty. In this neighbourhood has lately been erected a neat little building, designated the High Street CiiArEL, whicli is under the ministry of Mr. Dallow. The body which he represents is denominated the ' Plymouth Brethren.' Services are held each Sabbatli, commencing at a quai-ter to eleven in the the morning, and at half past six in the evening. It is weU attended, and has a Sunday School in connection. INDEPENDENT CHAPEL. A small building, built in 1803, situate in that part of the to'^rvn where the road branches off" to the lake. Divine ser- vice commences at half-past ten o'clock in the morriing and seven in the evening, every Sabbath. A Sunday School lias been established here under the superintendence of the present minister, Rev. Thomas Davison. The religious body over which he has the charge has been long established in Keswick. As other Public Institutions and objects of interest, con- nected with the town and neighbourhood, will be noticed in their respective places, it now only remains to say a few words on the town generally. Keswick, it sliould be ob- served, is situate hi the Parish of Crosthwaite, Cumberland, forming part of the Ward of Allerdale below Derwent, 293 miles N.W. by N. from London, 20 miles south of Wigton, 13 S.E. by Cockermouth, 16 N.E. by N. of Amble- side, and 18 miles N.W. by W. from Penrith. It forms one of the polling places for the Western Division of the County, and is included in the Third Circuit of County 14 KESWICK AND ITS rfEIGHBOURHOOD. Court Towns, under the recent act for the recovery of small debts. Various etymolog-ies of its name have been sug- gested, but the most probable, and, from its purely local character, naturally the most readily entertained by the natives of the district, is the following : — Kesh, a local ap- pellative for Water Hemlock, and Wic or Wick (Ang. Sax.), a Station or Village. Assuming this to be the true derivation, we have Kes{h)wick, The Village by the Sedges. It may be remarked that this well known plant formerly grew in great abundance in the undrained marshes in the immediate vicinity of the town, and is still locally known as the Kesh. Of the early history of the place, in common with that of all the inner region of the Lake District, very little can be gathered from public records. Secluded from tlie more ac- cessible and fertile parts of our island, the Lake-land fur- nishes but few topics of interest to our early historians. Although the extended intercourse of the progressive ci\i- lization of later centuries has tended much to obliterate the distinctions of race, the large admixture of Celtic blood still discernible throughout the whole of the district, but, more especially in the secluded dales, together with the prevalence of the ancient British language in its topogra- pliical nomenclature, fully bear out history in ascribing to it the character of a place of refuge for the unsubdued Britons retiring before the Saxon and Danish invaders. These, it is probable, remained in a state of comparative rudeness of dress, manners, speech, and mode of liveliliood, long after the more open country had felt the influence of the Norman conquest. The strife of civil war, too, and the contests of the nobles with the crown, it is well known were caiTied on at a distance from tliis part of the country ; hence the almost night-like silence that reigns in the pages of history over the rocky regions of Cumberland, throughout a period dur- ing which history was little more than a chronicle of warfare and feuds of bloodshed. Nor, descending to a later period, does it appear that the Scots marauders preferred their KESWICK. 15 raids through mountain fastnesses, where they were liable at any moment to have been sur})rised by a fierce foe, who held not out in their undoubtedly scanty possessions the tempting- offers of a rich plunder. How long the Parish Church was built before the twelfth century is uncertain. A list of rectors is preserved, dating from about the close of the thirteenth. The mines in the neighbourhood of Keswick were known in the time of Henry III., as appear by the close rolls of that reign. The privilege of a market was procured for the town from Edward I. by Sir John de Der- wentwater. Lord of the place. Edward IV. granted a charter for working the mines. In the 2nd of EUzabeth, the mine of Goldscope, in Newlands, was made the subject of a memorable trial between the crown and Thomas Percie, Earli)f Northumberland, Lord of the Manor of Derweut Fells. . The gold and silver in this vein being proven of more value than the copper and lead, by virtue of the prerogative royal the mine was adjudged to be a royal mine, and the property of the crown ; by whom it was carried on under commis- sioners. These commissioners would appear to have exer- cised a considerable share of influence in the direction and management of local aflfau's, during this, and the two suc- ceeding reigns. Camden found Keswick inhabited by miners. Leland, before him, describes it as " a little poor market-town called Keswike, a mile from St. Hereberte's Isle, that Bede speaketh of." An estimate of the population of the place at this time would have been locally interesting; unfortunately a proxi- mate conclusion can scarcely be arrived at. The number of inhabitants would necessarily fluctuate with the state of min- ing operations in the neighbom'hood, at one period increas- ing, at others decreasing. Agues and fevers, of a character happily now unknown, arising from the vicinage of extensive swamps and undi-auied marsh lands, periodically visited and carried oS" a portion of the inhabitants. This must have rendered the average of human life much lower than in our 16 KKSWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. own times, notwithstanding the assertions of the aged, by no means seldom to he met with in the district, who lament over the physical degeneracy and fancied decay of their species. The visitation of the plague, too, would appear to have more than once swept away the inhabitants in such numbers, if we can pay any attention to local tradition, that generations must have grown up and passed away before the complement was renewed. The registers of Crosthwaite Church show the number of interments for the year 162.3 to have been no less than 2,58, probably a tenth, or at most, one-twelftlr. of the whole population of the parish at that time. It is to be regretted that no registers are to be found for the year of the great plague, 1G65, and for a few years about that period. The average numbei- of interments in the whole jmrish for the ten years ending 1851, were ninety-one. Up to the middle of the eighteenth century, all traffic and communication with neiglibouriug towns were carried on over pack-horse roads. The state of agriculture, the few mechanical arts, and the general mode of livelihood in the district, were still in a rude and primitive condition, and we may not be far wrong, perhaps, in coming to tlie conclusion that no substantial progress had yet been made in the amount of its population. An occasional traveller, tempted by a desire to explore regions hitherto but little known, or, peix-hance, feeluig an interest in their mineral productions, passed through the place ; struck with scenes of romantic beauty, in the midst of so much seeming wild seclusion, and with the simple manners of the people, an exaggerated description of all con- nected with the Lakes and Mountains of Cumberland, would seem to have followed but as a natural consequence. In the Repertory of the period, the Gentleman's Magazine, several such descriptions may be found. In one of the numbers for the year 1751, a writer, whose potraiture of tlie scenery in the Vale of Keswick, is as marvellously over- liESWICK. 1 7 wrought, as his character of the people is unpardonable, says, " the poorer inhabitants of Keswick subsist chiefly by stealing, or clandestinely buying of those that steal, the black- lead, which tliey sell to Jews or other liawkers." Dr. Brown, a native of Cumberland, an author of no in- considerable repute, and not wanting- in poetic genius, pub- lished a letter to a friend, in the year 1767, in whicli ample justice was done to the vale without any of the elaborate hyperbolisms of his predecessors. Two years afterwards, Gray made his celebrated Tour to the Lakes. The result was a series of letters to his friend Dr. Wharton, who had been prevented by illness from accompanying him. " Gray died," says Wordsworth, " soon after his forlorn and melan- clioly pilgrimage to the Vale of Keswick, and the record left behioid liim of what he had seen and felt in this journey, ex- cited that pensive interest with which the human mind is ever disposed to listen to the farewell words of a man of genius. The journal of Gray feelingly showed how the gloom of ill health and low spirits, had been irradiated by objects which the author's powers of mind enabled him to describe with distinctness and unaffected simplicity." The publication of these letters led the way to the Lakes. Mailroads took the place of horse-tracks and the few old military roads. Tourists flocked to them from all parts of England; w ealthy strangers soon began to settle in the district, and the face of the country gradually to assume a more cultivated appearance. So early as the year 1793, the num- ber of visitors at Crosthwaite's Museum, during that season, was no less than 1540. When the succeeding wars had closed the Continent against English travellers, the atten- tion of tourists was more than ever directed to native scenery ; the tide turned northwards, and the Lakes obtained a stiU wider celebrity. According to the evidence of an intelligent townsman, recently given before a sanitary commissioner, the number of tourists visiting Keswick during a season, was stated to 18 KESWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. be on an average of from twelve to fifteen thousand ; nor is there reason to think this too high an estimate. In 1793 the population of Keswick numbered 1093. The national returns from the commencement of the present century are given below : — 1801 . . 1350 1831 . . 2159 1811 . . 1683 1841 . . 2375 1821 ., ,. 1901 1851 . . 2618 The number of inhabited houses in 1851 was found to be 562. CHAPTER II. TOUR I. 'Twas like a dream Of old Romance, to see her when she plied Her little skiff on Derwent's glassy lake ; The roseate evening resting on the hills, The Lake returning back the hues of heaven. Mountains, and vales, and waters all imbued With beauty and in quietness ; and she, Nymph-like amid that glorious solitude, A heavenly presence, gliding in her joy. SOUTHEY. I would sail round the Lake, anchor in every bay, and land you on every promontory and island. I would point to the per- petual change of prospect ; the woods, rocks, cliffs, and moutains by turns vanishing or rising into view. Now gaining on the sight, hanging over our heads in their full dimensions, beautifully dreadful, and now, by a change of situation, as- suming new, romantic shapes, retiring and lessening on the eye, insensibly losing themselves in the azure mist. I would remark the contrast of light and shade produced by the morn- ing and evening sun, the one gilding the western, the other the eastern, side of this immense amphitheatre. From Dr. Brown's Letter, 17t>7. Almost the first place to which a stranger dii'ects his steps on his arrival in Keswick is the shore of the far-famed Derwent Water. Crossing the market-place, the road leads past Mutton's Museum and the Independent Chapel ; a few yards beyond the latter a well-kept carriage road leads in a c 2 20 KESWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. windiug course to the margin of the lake. Crow Park, the smooth green hill passed on the right, was used as a race- course durmg the middle part of the past half centivry ; horse-racing and athletic games were held on this hill annu- ally for the space of three days, and regatta matches on the lake. Gray, it will be seen, visited, and was charmed with this place as a favourable station for viewing the lake and its accompaniments. " I walked," he says, " to Crow Park, now a rough pasture, once a glade of ancient oaks, whose roots still remain in the gTOund, but nothing has sprung from them. K one single tree had remained this would have been an unparalleled spot It commands it (the lake) from end to end, looking full into the rocky chaos of Borrowdale."' Again, " In the evening I walked to the side of Crow Park, after sun-set ; and saw the solemn colour- ing of night draw on, the last gleam of sunshine foding away on the hiU tops, the deep serene of the waters, and the long shadows of the mountains thrown across them till they nearly touched the hithermost shore." A handsome cottage resi- dence (Crow Park Cottage) has been erected on the southern extreuuty, adjoming the road, during the winter of 1850-1. the residence of Mr. John Hudspith, the land-steward of the Derwentwater estate. Cockshot, or Cockshut, Hill, also visited by Gray, is now covered ■with oak of large growth and a few finely-spreading beeches, and is consequently no longer used as a station, but a pleasant ramble may be enjoyed by crossing the stile and pursuing the road leading round its base. Passing the motley array of boats moored in the sheltered bay, the footpath througli the wicket leads to the rocky promontory of Friar's Crag, whence is liad an exceedingly tine view of the lake, the bold and rugged outline of the Borrowdale mountahis serving as an admirable back-gi-ound. Friar's Crag is said to have received its name from the monks of Lindisfarn having come down to it once a year to receive the blessing of St. Herbert. It is now a favourite promenade during the summer months. To the left of this promontory DERWENT WATER. — VICAU S ISL.\J*D. 21 is a field whence is had, in Southey's opinion, the best near view of the lake. " Thei'e it is," he says, " ii' I had Aladdin's lamp, or Fortunatus' i)urse, I would build myself a house." The tourist will, in all probability, either now, or some- time during- his sojourn in the district, take boat and enjoy the rich and Aaried scenery seen more fully from the bosom of the waters. We shall, therefore, seize this occasion to notice the Islands and other objects of interest connected with the Lake. vicar's island Is first passed on its eastern shore. It is supposed to have received its name from having formerly belonged to Foun- tain's Abbey, in Yorkshire. From this it would seem to have been connected with, and included in the gift of, the parish church of Crosthwaite, to that religious house by Alice de Romely. Upon the dissolution of the monaste- ries it was granted by king Henry VIII. to one John Williamson. Leland mentions it as being in his time " covered with trees like a wilderness." Camden found it inhabited by German miners. When strangers, attracted by the scenery of the Lakes, began to settle in the district, this island appears to have been one of the earliest places occupied as a summer residence. In the latter part of the last century it was made the scene of annual amusements by the then proprietor, the nature of which will be gathered from the following abridged account of the proceedings of the year 1781, wliich appeared in the Cumberland Pacquet of that date : — " At eight o'clock in the morning, a vast concourse of ladies and gentlemen appeared on the side of DerM^ent Lake, where a number of marquees were erected for their accom- modation. At twelve, such of the company as were invited by Mr. Pocklington passed over in boats to the island which bears his name ; and, on their landing, were saluted by a discharge of artillery, which are one nine-pounder and five c 3 22 KESWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. four-pouuders. This might properly be called the opening of the regatta ; for, as soon as the echo of this discharge had ceased, a signal gun was fired, and five boats, which lay upon their oars (oh that part of the water which runs nearest the town of Keswick) instantly pushed off the shore and began the race. A view from any of the attendant boats pre- sented a scene which beggars all description. Tlie sides of the hoary mountains were clad with spectators, and the glassy surface of the lake was variegated with numbers of pleasure barges, which, tricked out in all the gayest colours, and glittering in the rays of the meridian sun, gave a new appearance to the celebrated beauties of tliis matcliless vale. " The contending boats passed Pocklington's Island, and rounding St. Herbert's and Rampsholme, edged down by the outside of Lord's Island ; describing in the race almost a perfect circle, and, dming the greatest part of it, in full view of the company. " About three o'clock preparations were made for the sham attack on Pocklington's Island. Tlie fleet (consisting' of several barges, armed with small cannon and musquetry) retired out of view, beliind Friar's Crag, to prepare for action, previous to which a flag of truce was sent to the governor, with a summons to suiTender on honourable terms. A defiance was returned ; soon after which the fleet was seen advancing with great spirit before the batteries, and instantly forming a curved line, a tenable cannonading began on both sides, accompanied with a dreadful discharge of musquetry. This continued for some time, and being echoed from hill to lull, filled the ear with whatever could produce astonishment and awe. All nature seemed to be in an uproar, which impressed on the awakened imagination the most lively ideas of the ' war of elements and the crush of worlds.' After a severe conflict,* the enemies were driven from the attack in * A grotesque drawing, by Smirke, apparently representing the scene at this moment of attack, is preserved in Crosthwaite's Museum. The still-remembered faces of several worthies of the place who took an active part in this scene of mimic warfare DERWENT AVATER. — LORD's ISLAND. 23 gi'eat disorder. A feu-de-joie was tlieu fired from the fort, and oft repeated by the responsive echoes. The fleet, after a little delay, formed again ; and, practising a variety of beautiful manoeuvres, renewed the attack. Uproar again sprung up, and the deep-toned echoes of the mountains again joined in solemn chorus ; which was heard to the distance of ten leagues leeward through the easterly opening of that vast amphitheatre, as far as Appleby ! ! ! The garrison at last capitulated ; and the entertainment on the water being finished (towards the evening), the company moved to Kes- wick, to wliich place, from the water's edge, a range of lamps was fixed, very happily disposed, and a number of fire-works displayed off. An assembly-room (which was built for the purpose) next received the ladies and gentlemen, and a dance concluded this annual festi\ity." This island suKsequently became the property of Lieutenant- General William Peachy, who made it his summer residence until the time of his death, in 1838. He rid the place of its mock garrison and fort, and greatly beautified it with a handsome mansion and trees. After his death part of his family continued to reside here, and did much towards im- proving and ornamenting it. In 1844 it passed, by private purchase, into the hands of Henry Cowper Marshall, Esq., Leeds, with the house, and furniture, as it then stood. The principal part of the mansion having been destroyed by fire on the night of the 7th November, 1849, it has been recently restored and considerably enlarged, and the grounds laid out in admirable order. lord's ISLAND, Lying immediately in front of Friar's Crag, and distant not more than one hundred yards from the eastern shore of the are easily distinguished in this sketch. Mr. Crosthwaite, of the Museum, it should be observed, was invested with the dig- nified title of Admiral of the Fleet on these occasions. 24 KESWICK AND ITS NEIOHBOURIIOOD. lake, to Avliich it is said to liave been originally connected by an isthmus, is the largest of all the islands, containing an area of about six acres. It is at present covered with stately trees, tenanted by a numerous rookery. It is so called from having been the residence of the Derwentwater family when they abandoned theii' strong-hold on the neighbouring hill of Castlerigg. The approach at that time was by a draw-bridge, thrown from the northern extremity of the island to the nearest point of land, known as Strands Hagg. A crumbled mass of decayed walls near the centre of the island, out of which it would now be difficult to deduce order or plan, marks the site of a building of apparently consider- able dimensions. The archery-ground, on the western side, can be more distinctly traced out. It was from this sweet seclusion that James Ratcliffe, Earl of Derwentwater (urg-ed, says local tradition, by the entreaties of his beautiful Countess*) joined the ill-advised * The family cf Derwentwater took their name from having their seat on the banks of the lake of that name. A Sir John de Derwentwater resided here in the reign of Edward I., and the head of the house held the name of Sir John in the reign of Ed- ward III. Margaret, the daughter and heiress of the latter, was married to Sir Nicholas Ratcliffe, of Dilston, Northumberland. The estates of the house of Derwentwater thus came into the possession of the Ratcliffs. Sir Thomas Ratcliffe, (son and repre- sentative of Sir Nicholas,) married Margaret, daughter of Sir William Parr, of Kendal Castle, and had issue, six sons. Sir Francis, the sixth in lineal descent from Sir Thomas, was created by James II. Baron of Dilston, Viscount Langley and Ratclifle, and Earl of Derwentwater, by reason of the marring© of his son, the second Earl, to Lady Mary Tudor, a natural daughter of Charles II. James, the third Earl, espoused the daughter of Sir John Webb, Dorsetshire, and left issue, a son and a daughter, the latter born in 17 16, after her father's untimely death. The son died in France at the age of nineteen, from injuries received whilst riding on horseback. The daughter was married to Lord Petre in 1732- The widowed Countess died in France at about the age of thirty, and was buried at Louvaine. Charles Ratcliffe, brother of DERWENT AVATEU. 25 and ill-fated rising of the supporters of the older Pretender in Northumberland, under Forster, in the jH^ar 1715. At Preston, whitlier tlie insurgents had arrived on their march upon the Capital, the whole body was surrounded by the king's forces, under generals Willis and Carpenter, and through the cowardice of Forster, their leader, compelled to sur- render at discretion, without so much, almost, as striking a single blow in defence. The most conspicuous of the leaders, among whom was the Earl, were immediately marched to London, where they arrived on the 9th Decem- ber. After sufifering numerous indignities at the hands of the unfortunate Earl, condemned to execution. May 8, 1716, for participating in the rebellion, contrived to effect his escape from iVewgate, in company with Forster and some others, and got safe to France. Here, after living in a state of indigence for some time, he attached himself to the fortunes of the Pretender, and subsisted on a pension allowed him by that Prince. In 1724 he married Lady Charlotte Livingstone, Countess of Newburgh, in her own right. He secretly visited England twice, but sought in vain to obtain a pardon. In 1745 he engaged ardently in the cause of the Prince Charles, and was taken prisoner in a French vessel, loaden with arms and amunition, intended for the insurgents in Scotland. After lying a year in confinement, he was brought be- fore the Bar of the King's Bench, his former sentence was read to him, and having raised in vain a curious question of identity, which for a time perplexed the officers of the crown, he was be- headed on Tower Hill, 8th December, 1746, in the fifty-fourth year of his age. On the attainder of the Earl in 1716, the large possessions of the family were confiscated to the Crown, by whom they were held, under trustees, until 1735, when they were bestowed upon Greenwich Hospital by George II. These posses- sions, which are now said to be of the yearly rental of more than £60,000, are situated in theCounties of Cumberland, Northumber- land, and Durham. TheCumberland portion was purchased a little more than twenty years ago by the late John Marshall, jun. Esq., Leeds. The Earl of Newburgh, the descendant of Charles Kat- cliffe, petitioned parliament for a reversal of the attainder, but he only succeeded in obtaining, as a compensation for some claim he had upon the lands, an annuity of £2500. The last of a long line of ancestry died in 1814. 26 KESWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. the populace, as well as at those of the authorities, they were lodged in the Tower. On the I'e-assembly of the Commons House of Parliament, January 9, 1716, the Earl of Der- wentwater was the first to be impeached of high treason. On the 19th, in company with his confederates, he was brought before the House of Lords, assembled as a Court of Justice in Westminster. He there confessed his guilt, and threw himself on the mercy of the king. His subsequent brief history is feeUngly told in the words of a modern historian : — " The united interests and earnest supplication of the Duchesses of Cleveland and Bolton — of the young Countess of Derwentwater, pleading -with tears for the husband she tenderly loved — and many other ladies of rank, failed in monng the rough and sturdy king, who admitted them to an audience, but adhered to his purpose, which was the pur- pose of the majority of his ministers. Bribes, which had succeeded before in like circumstances, were offered now without effect. Sixty thousand pounds were tendered for the single pardon of Lord Derwentwater, who, up to the time of the mad rising in the north, had been linng happily and hospitably in his fine old castle, reflected in the clear waters of one of the most beautiful of the English Lakes ; and for whose present hard fate tears were shed and lamenta- tions raised in every valley and on every hill-side in Cumber- land. At an early hour on the morning of the 24th February, he and Lord Kenmure were brought to the seaff'old on Tower Hill. The English Lord was the first that sufiered. He was deadly pale, but his voice was firm, and on the whole he behaved like a man of courage and conscience. He declared that he died a Roman Catholic ; that he deeply repented his plea of guilty at his trial ; and that he knew and acknow- ledged no king but James HI., his rightful and lawful sover- eign, ' whom he had an inclination to serve from his in- fancy.' He further insisted that he had intended wrong to no man, that he harboured maMce against no man, not even against those of the present ministry who were instrumen- DERWENT WATER. — BARROW HOUSE. 27 tal in his death, that he had intended to serve his country as well as his legitimate king, and to contribute to the re- storation of the ancient and fundamental constitution of these kingdoms. " At one blow the executioner severed the neck of James RatcliiFe, tliird and last Earl of Derweutwater, a gallant, courteous young man, perhaps the most interesting victim of this attempted revolution." Passing on to Barrow House, the property of Joseph Pock- luigton Senhouse, Esq., but at present the residence of S. Z. Langton, Esq., the reader is strongly recommended to visit a beautiful cascade situated in a wood behind the house, to wliich access is courteously granted on application at the lodge. Tlie fall of water is over two successive ledges of rock, in all 124 feet in perjjendicular height, and when viewed from the foot after heavy rains, presents a truly im- posing appearance. The top of the fall may be gained by a wuiding flight of steps, where stands a summer-house, with seats for rest. A fine, but broken view of the sur- rounding scenery is affbrded from this place ; indeed, a sweeter place than this house and grounds with accompani- ments of cascade, hermitage, and majestic oaks, fancy could not well devise. The imaginations of the poets of a bygone age might here have revelled Avith delight, peopling each nook and dell with the nymphs and fays of their pastoral song'. Doubtless it was from such scenes, only afforded in the Lake District, that a Cumbrian bard of a century ag'o, but now, like his school of poetry, almost forgotten, drew alike his inspiration and harmonious numbers : — " The hills are ours and all their rocks Where Magic's self might dwell ; Those cataracts, tliose sunny lakes, And many a moss-clad dell. Now all our forests spread their shades, And woodland warblers sing; And fairies sport at even-tide In wild fantastic ring ; 28 KESWICK AND ITS NEIGUBOURHOOD. Old babbling echo too is here, To swains in love still nigh, Disposed to listen to thy plaints, And answer sigh for sigh ; And in our springs fair Naiads dwell, All flushed with healtli and ease; Dryads and Hamadryads too Frolic around our trees. Sweet mountain-nymphs, whose coral lips, And cheeks just dimpling into smile ; O come and with these mirthful maids All low-born cares beguile. O come and we'll be mountaineers. Or home-spun village swains, Or with poetic ardour fired Sing wild incondite strains." Taking' boat again, and rounding Barrow Point, and sailing under Tlu-ang- Crag, with its picturesque screes clothed with dwarfed and contracted oaks, land at LoDOUE. The Lodore Waterfall, celebrated by Southey in dithyrambics, playful and irregular as its waters, it need scarcely be observed, is well worthy a visit at any season, though, like all objects of a similar natiu'e, it is only seen to advantage when the weather is such as few tourists would wish to experience. The stream which descends from the upland A^ale or Glen of Wateudlath, finds its way doAvn an exceedingly rocky bed between the two towering cliffs of Gowdar Crag on the left, and Shepherd's Crag on the right. In seasons of heavy rain tlie descending torrent is of considerable volume, broken into a thousand fantastic whirls, and literally " deafening" to a spectator at the foot of tlie fall. Its roar is distinctly audi- ble at such times below the foot of the lake, a distance of three or four miles. In ordinary seasons the top of tlie fa.\\ may ])e reached by taking a steep and rugged path on the left, thence crossing the stream to the right, and ascending to a piece of open ground. On looking- back from this pla«e, the scene will amply repay the toil encountered in the arduous ascent. Through DERWKNT WATER. — LODORE. 29 the vista, formed by the walls of rock on each side, are seen Derwentwater, with its ishmds in beautiful array ; tlie Vale and Town of Keswick ; Bassenthwaite Lake ; beyond the latter, the rising- ground forming' the southern boundary of the great Cumbrian jjlain, and the Scotch hills far in the dis- tance. The perpendicular height through which the water descends m all, is said to be about one hundred and fifty feet. The Lodore Hotel, anciently a smaU hostelry, has been considerably enlarged of late years, and, under tlie able management of Mrs. Mossop, aflbrds excellent accommoda- tion to tourists. As may naturally be supi)osed from its pleasant situation on the banks of the lake, and the grandeur of the scenery by which it is surrounded, it is a favourite plivce of resort with summer visitors. Of Southey's amusing description of this waterfall, the piece is too generally kuown to need insertion, but as the reader is supposed to be on the spot we cannot resist giving u few lines : — How does the water come down at Lodore ? Here it comes sparkling, And there it lies darkling ; Here smoking and frothing, Its tumult and wrath in. It hastens along, conflictingly strong. Now striking and raging, as if a war waging, In caverns and rocks among. Rising and leaping, Sinking and creeping, Swelling and flinging. Showering and springing, Eddying and whisking, Sponting and frisking, Turning and twisting Around and around, Collecting, disjecting, "With endless rebound, Smiting and fighting, A sight to delight in. Confounding, astounding, 30 KESWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. Dizzying and deafening the ear with its sound. ********* And so never ending, but always descending, Sounds and motions for ever and ever are blending, All at once and all o'er, with a mighty uproar — And in this way the water comes down at Lodore. Sailing across the head of the lake, the works seen on the western shore have been recently fitted up for the purpose of re-opening and working a rich vein of lead ore, familiarly called the Salt Level. The only steam engine yet introduced into the Vale of Derwentwater,was set up here in the summer of 1851, and has proved a powerful auxiliary in raising the overflow of water from the workings. We understand that some half-dozen tons of fine ore are raised weekly from this mine, and are boated to the foot of the lake : the ore is thence conveyed by the usual channel into the markets. The richly-wooded estate commencing at the head of the lake, and extending to its foot, at a variable breadth of from a quarter to half a mile, was formerly the pro- perty of Lord William Gordon. From the hands of his Lady it passed into those of the present proprietor, Major General Sir John Woodford. The owner's residence stands in sweet retirement at the head of Derwentwater Bay, em- bowered in a noble grove of fir and pine trees, interspersed with oak, chestnut, and other varieties of wood. BrandUow House, now a dilapidated building, situated on tliis estate is worthy of notice as having at one time been a way-side hostlery, and a favourite rendezvouz of smugglers, or dealers in contraband spirits, passing inland from the sea coast. The Cock-pit, stiU existing, significantly points out the rude kind of sports in which they indulged. It is matter of some regret, that the traditions, once rife among the rustic population, of the bacchanalian feasts and other strange scenes witnessed by this spot, as well as many interesting anecdotes of the district that would have illustrated the social condition and history of the people in the past, have not been preserved in some connected form. The time, it DERWENT WATER. — ST. HERBERT'S ISLE. 31 is to be feared, has now gone by for legends as interesting as those that engaged the morning hours of Sir Walter Scott, and family traditions not below the dignity of local liistory, to be rescued from oblivion. Hawes End, another dilapidated ruin, stands in a highly picturesque situation, and is well worth a place in the port- folio of the amateur artist. Victoria Bay, in this locality, is connected with more loyal associations in the minds of the present generation. On the morning of the coronation of her present gracious Majesty, a number of boats' crews of her loyal subjects from Keswick lauded here, and, after formally giving to the Bay its present name, spent the day on shore in joyous mirth and liilarity. ST. Herbert's isle. Land here, and view the ruins of St. Herbert's Cell ; also a pretty octagonal cottage of unhewn stone, standing on the centre of the island, of modern erection, but overgrown with moss and ivy, and presenting the appearance of antiquity. The island of St. Herbert had, for a long period, been in the possession of the ancient family of the Lawson's, of Bray ton Hall, Cumberland. In 1850, it was purchased of the present representative, Sii' Wilfred Lawson, by Henry Cowper Marshall, Esq. It is famous for having been the residence of St. Herbert, a priest and confessor, " who," say the chroniclers, " to avoid the intercourse of man, and that nothing might withdraw his attention from unceasing mortification and prayer, chose this island for his abode. The scene around him was well adapted to the severity of his religious life. He was sur- rounded with the lake, from whence he received Ms diet. On every hand the voice of waterfalls excited the most solemn meditation — crocks and mountains were his daily prospect, inspiring his mind with ideas of tlie might and majesty of the Creator, and were suitable to his disposi- tion of soul ; silence seemed to take up her abode. From 32 KESWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. the situation of this island nature hath given one half of the year to hurricanes and storms. Here this recluse erected an hermitage, the remains of whicli exist to this day, be- ing built of stone with mortar, formed into two apartments. The outward one, about twenty feet long and sixteen feet broad, lias jjrobably been his chapel ; the other, of narrower dimensions, his cell." At the risk of wearying the general reader, or of treating those to whom Bede's account of this samt is familiar, with a repetition, it is here inserted. In a work specially treat- ing of objects locally interesting, it appears desirable that the fidlest information shoidd be furnished while the reader is supposed to be on the spot. This consideration must likewise apply as an excuse where apparently minute detail ha.s been entered into in other parts of this vokune. " There was," says Bede, " a certain priest, revered for his uprightness and perfect life and manners, named Hereberte, who had a long time been in unison with the man of God (St. Cutlibert of Farn Island) in the bond of spiritual love and friendship : for, living a solitary life in the isle of that great and extended lake from whence proceeds the river Derweut, lie used to visit St. Cuthbert every year, to receive from his lips the doctrine of eternal life. When this holy priest heard of St. Cuthbert's coming to Lugubalia (Carlisle), he came after his usual manner, desu'ing to be comforted more and more with the hopes of everlasting bliss, by his divine ex- hortations. As they sate together, and enjoyed the liopes of heaven, among other tilings, the bishop said, ' Remember, brother Herbert, that whatsoever ye have to say, and ask of me, you do it now, for after we depart hence, we shall not meet again, and see one another corporeally in this world ; for I know Avell the time of my dissolution is at hand, and the laying aside of this earthly tabernacle draweth on apace.' When Ilerberte lieard this, lie fell doAni at his feet, and, with many sighs and tears, beseeched liim, for the love of the Lord, that he would not forsake him, but to remember his faithful brother and associate, and make intercession with DERWENT WATER. — ST. HERBERT'S ISLE. 33 the gi'acious God, that they might depart hence into heaven together, to behold His grace and glory wliom they had in unity of spirit served on earth ; for you know I have ever studied and laboured to live according to yoiu- pious and virtuous instructions ; and in M'hatsoever I offended or omitted, through ignorance and frailty, I straightway used my earnest efforts to amend after youi' ghostly will and counsel.' At tliis earnest and affectionate request of Herebert's, the bishop went to prayer, and presently being certified in spirit that Ills petition to heaven would be granted, — ' Arise,' saith he, ' my dear brother, weep not, but let your rejoicing be with exceeding gladness ; for the great mercy of God hath granted unto us our prayer.' The truth of which promise was well proved in that which ensued ; for their separation was the last that beheld them on earth ; on the same day, which was the 19th day of March, their souls departed from their bodies, and were straight in union in the beatific sight and vision, and were transported hence to the kingdom of hea- ven, by the service and hands of angels." " It is probable," saya Hutchinson, whom we have followed in this accountj " the hermit's little oratory or chapel might be kept in repaii* after his death, as a particular veneration appears to have been paid by the religious of after ages to this venerable retreat, and the memory of the Saint. There is a variance in the accoimts given by authors, of the day of the Saint's death. Bede says, the 19th March ; other au- tliors, on the 20th day of May, A.D. 687. But, however, in the year 1374, at the distance of almost seven centuries, we find this place resorted to in holy services and processions, and the hennit's memory celebrated in religious service. To every attendant on these occasions, forty days indulgence was granted as a reward for his devotion." Sou they says of these annual processions, " Wliat a happy holiday must that have been for all these vales, and how joyou-s, on a fine spring day, must the lake have appeared with boats and banners from every chapelry, and how miLst the chapel have D 34 KESWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. adorned that little isle, giving a human and a religious character to the solitude !" Part of Wordsworth's inscription for this sacred spot is here transcribed : — " Stranger ! not unmoved Wilt thou behold this shapeless mass of stones, The desolate ruin of St. Herbert's Cell. Here stood his threshold ; here was spread the roof. That sheltered him, a self-secladed Man. " When, with eye upraised To Heaven, he knelt before the crucifix, While o'er the Lake the Cataract of Lodore Peal'd to his orisons, and when he paced Along the beach of this small isle, and thought Of his Companion, he woiild pray that both (Now that their earthly duties were fulfilled) Might die in the same moment. — Nor in vain So prayed he — as our Chroniclers report. Though here the Hermit number'd his last day, Far from St. Cuthbert, his beloved Friend — Those holy Men both died in the same hour. Before closing the present chapter, it may not be consi- dered out of place to notice a few principle features con- nected with Lake Derwent. Its form, as will be seen by re- ference to the annexed map, is irregular, approacliing most nearly to that of the oval, extending in length a distance of about three miles, its gi-eatest breadth bemg about a mile and a half — in some parts much less— the northern por- tion being not more than half-a-mile from shore to shore — and contains accorduig to an eminent modem geographical authority, an area of 1485 acres. Of the vai-ious scenes of luxuriant beauty and sublime mountain forms by which it id sun'ounded, the reader who has " Sall'd the wondrous lake around," will be qualified to speak for hinwelf ; but the enjoyment DERWENT WATEK. 35 derived from the contemplation of these will be doubly enhanced if he has been fortunate enough to visit it in early summer, or during the autumnal months, and made the circuit of its waters on a calm stUl morning or evening, when the foiTUs and hues of siu-rounding objects are dearly re- flected m its mirrored bosom. At such an hour, when the mind comes prepared to yield up its powers to the influence of the season and its associations, the quiet beauty and un- broken stilhiess of the scene, the deep azure of the heavens above, the clustermg mountams around, and the dense gi'oves that fringe the margin of the lake and cover the islands, — the whole reflected in the brilliant purity of its waters, giving back every tint of colouring in landscape and foliage, and presentmg the perfect illusion of a twofold ci'eation, — produce upon the voyager a feeling of deep and tranquil joy. Nor is it only at such hours that the lake may may be visited to advantage ; an excursion u^wn its waters by moonlight has often been described as fraught with feelings of enchantment. The months of August and September, it may be observed, are the most favourable for such a voyage, and the weather ought to be pecidiarly favourable, otiierwise tJie experiment should not be made. The surface of the lake afibrds, in some winter seasons, a fine field for the invigorating exercise of skating. In the winter of 1837-8, its waters were frozen over for a period of eleven Aveeks, the ice during that time attaining an almost incredible thickness. Large quantities of perch were taken with hook and line suspended througli openings made in the ice with saw and hatchet, at a depth, in some places, of twenty-six yards. Games of cricket and otlier amusements, were held upon its sm-face. At several subsequent periods it has been frozen over for three or four successive weeks, and has never failed, at such times, to be made use of by the dwellers on its banks as a means of recreation. XJuhaj)- pily, it has not been free from those accidents to whicli all rimilar places are more or less liable, and which tlrrow a deep gloom over the district in which they occur. Twice, D 2 36 KESWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOUKHOOD. within the memory of the present generation, have two brothers, in the flash of manhood, gone do"vvu together be- neath the ice and foimd a wateiy grave, mider more than iLsually melancholy circumstances. At two different periods of time, too, have parties of tlu-ee met with similar deaths, under equally melancholy cu'ciunstances, by the capsizing and sinking of sail-boats. The fish taken here are trout, pike, eeLs and perch in abundance, occasionally salmon, but no char. Many rare aquatic birds have from time to time been shot upon its watere. Dm'ing- the present season some fine swans and Egyptian geese have been placed upon the lake by a gentle- man resident upon its banks, and, it is needless to say, form a gracefid ornament to its waters. As it is probable the reader, v?hose stay in the neighbour- hood is protracted beyond the day, -will be tempted to repeat his visits to the shore of the lake, it may be well to remind him that a kind of classic uiterest is connected with this spot, as fonning the scene of the ludicrous disaster that befel the good old simple-hearted Di*. Syntax in his memorable Toiu- to the Lakes. Dr. Syntax, the reader need hardly be infonned, is the inimitable creation of a gifted, but ening and unfortunate man of genius. He is supposed to be residing in a distant part of om* island, fulfilling m his own person the twofold duties of country curate and pedagogue. A scheme has long been revolving in the worthy Doctor's pericranium, how he shall most profitably employ the ap- proaching midsummer vacation. The scheme at length resolves itself into a tangible form — and — but we shall leave him to tell his o^vn tale. " I'm going further on a Bcheme, Which you may think an idle drecim; At the famed Lakes to take a look, And of my Journey write a Book. "With curious eye and active scent, I on tlio Picturesque am bent : DERWENT WATER. — DR. SYNTAX. 37 This is my game; I must pursue it, And make it where I cannot view it. When four long tedious days had past. The town of Keswick reach'd at last, Where he the famous work prepared. Of all his toil the hoped reward. Soon as the morn began to break. Old Grizzle bore him to the Lake; Along the banks he gravely paced, And all its various beauties traced ; When, lo, a threat'ning storm appear'd! Phoebus the scene no longer cheered : The dark clouds sank on every hill; The floating mists the valley fill; Nature transfonn'd began to lower. And threatened a tremendous shower. * I love,' he cried, * to hear the rattle Wh«n elements contend in battle; For I insist, though some may flout it> Who write about it, and about it. That we the Picturesque may find In thunder loud and whistling wind; And often, as I fully ween. It may be heard as well as seen ; For, though a pencil cannot trace A sound as it can paint a face. The pen, in its poetic rage. Can make it figure on the page.' A fisherman who passed that way. Thought it civility to say: — • An please you. Sir, 'tis all in yain To take your prospects in the rain. On horseback, too, you'll ne'er be able, 'Twere better sure to seek a table.' ' Thanks,' Syntax said, * for your advice, And, faith, I'll take it in a trice ; For, as Pm moisten'd to the skin, I'll seek a table at the inn.' But Grizzle, in her haste to pass, Lured by a tempting tuft of grass, A luckless step now chanc'd to take, D 3 38 KESWICTK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. And sous'd the Doctor in the Lake : But as it proved no worse disaster Befel poor Grizzle and her master, Than both of them oould well endure. And a warm inn would shortly cure. To that warm inn they quickly hied. Where Syntax, by the fire-side. Sat in the landlord's garments clad, But neither sorrowful nor sad ; Nor did he waste his hours away, But gave his pencil all its play, And trac'd the landscapes of the day." The Doctor meets with a congenial friend in the person of a real Squire Worthy of the place, which promises to con- duce more to his substantial interests than book-making. Eventually he receives the appointment to the Vicai-age from the Sqiui-e. The entrance of himself and Lady to take possession of their " appointed tranquil home," is thus liappUy described : — " The courteous people lined the way. And their rude untaught homage pay ; The foremost of the appointed crowd. The fat Exciseman, humbly bow'd; ' Welcome,' he said, * to Sommerden •,' The Clerk stood by and cried ' Amen.' Grizzle dash'd boldly through the gate. Where the kind Squire and Ladies wait. With kind embrace, with heart and hand. To cheer them into Cumberland, The bells rang loud, the boys huzza'd. The bonfire was in order laid; The Villagers their zeal display, And Ale and Crackers close the daj.** CHAPTER III. TOUR II. He on his own green banks, in solitude, By his soft murmuring lake wanders along ; And to his mountains and his forests rude Chants in sweet melody his classic song ; He makes our northern wilds a paradise, Since spirits all sublime inhabit there : For at his magic call what phantoms rise, And in his voice what music floats the air ! So heavenly soothing and so softly wild, The peasant deems it more than mortal lay ; The gray old hermit and the rustic child, With beating heart and timid footsteps stray. To catch the notes the zephyrs waft away. Lines written and addressed to Robeet Souihey, by a Lady. However short or huiried the stay of the stranger in Kesmck, he will harcUy fail to include in his visit the fine old Church of Crosthwaite, where repose the remains of the illustrious Robert Southey. Greta Hall, the residence of the Poet for the long- period of forty years, stands on a piece of rising ground, embowered in trees, at the northern end of the town, about two hundred yards to the right of tlie Bridge. Here Robert Southey, after the failure of his youtliful schemes and various world-wanderings, finally " cast anchor," as he himself exjjresses it, in the year 1803, being then in his thirtieth year. He had at that time publislied 40 KESWICK AKD ITS IvEIGnBOUEIIOOD. ' Joan of Arc' and ' Thalaba, the wild and wondrous song-' — ' Kehama' and 'Madoc' were completed, but still in manu- script. Even in a district where every eminence, however slight, unfolds its own peculiar charms of landscape, the spot was well chosen. The river Greta — in rainy seasons, of rapid and turbulent passage, at others, a loitering' purling brook — ^winds immediately behind and again in front of the house and grounds, thence forms a junction with the Der- went about a quarter of a mile below the biidge. The mountains by which the house is on all sides ' enveloped ' have been somewhere described by ' Eha,' as ' great flourish- ing bears and monsters.' Behind rise, ^dth lofty front, the majestic Skiddaw and Blencathra, at whose feet repose the sunny slopes of Latrigg, long before styled by Gray " Skid- daw's Cub." In front expands the fertile vale and sister lakes, connected by the Derwent, a channing river of sinu- ous course. ' A giant's camp of tent-like mountains,' ex- tending from 'far Glaramara' to westermost Wythop, a distance of fifteen miles as the crow flies, shuts in the scene on this side. " That Southey was not indifferent to the poetic and pic- torial accessories of his abode," says a recent Reviewer of liis Life, " many charming passages in both prose and verse evmce. His daUy walks, liis occasional rambles, and the prospect which hourly greeted him from liis library window, refreshed and invigorated his spii-it, and taught him to scan and describe, ^rith a profound feeling of their beauty, the mystery and the majesty of flood and fell, of night and of morning, of elemental turbulence and repose." A November Scene from his library Avindow, the peculiar natm'e of which no one but an observant resident in a moun- tainous district, acquamted with the rich hues imparted by the natural phenomena of atmospheric vapour, can fully realize perhaps, has been left us in memorable hexameters. 'Twas at that sober hour, when the light of day is receding, And from surrounding things the hues wherewith day has adorned them 1>R. SOUTHEY. 41 Fade, like the hopes of youth, till the beauty of earth is de- parted : Pensive, though not in thought, I stood at the window, be- holding Mountain and lake and vale ; the valley disrobed of its verdure ; Derwent i-etaining yet from eve a glassy reflection, Where his expanded breast, then still and smooth as a mirror. Under the woods reposed : the hills that, calm and majestic, Lifted their heads in the silent sky, from farGlaramar, Bleacrag and Maidenmawr, to Grizedal and vvestermost "Wy- thop. Dark and distinct they rose. The clouds had gather'd above them High in the middle air, huge, purple, pillowy masses, "While in the west beyond was the last pale tint of the twilight ; Green as a stream in the glen whose pure and chrysolite waters Flow o'er a schistous bed ; and serene as the age of the righte- ous. Earth was hushed and still ; all motion and sounds were sus- pended ; Neither man was heard, bird, beast, nor humming of insect. Only the voice of the Greta, heard only when all is in stillness. Pensive I stood and alone, the hour and the scene had subdued me. And as I gazed in the west, where Infinity seem'd to be open, Tearn'd to be free from tjme, and felt that this life is a thral- dom. Tlie Volumes of " Life and Letters" i-ecently given to the world by his son, the Rev. C. C. Southey, furnish us with many curious and interesting particulars of the home-life of the Poet. Our limits do not permit us to enter at any length into this subject, but we trust the Reverend Editor will ex- cuse us, as we are sure our readers wUl, if we give one or two examples, taken at random. Writing to a friend in 1807, he says :— " My actions are as regular as tliose of St. Dunstan's quarter-boys. Tliree pages of history after breakfast (equi- valent to five in small quarto printing) ; then to transcribe and copy for the press, or to make my selections and bio- graphies, or what else suits my humour, till dinner-time ; 42 KESWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOUKHOOD. from dinner till tea, I read, wi'ite letters, see the news- paper, and very often indulge in a siesta. After tea I go to poetry, and correct, and re-write, and copy tUl I am tii'ed, and then turn to any thing else tUl supper ; and this is my life — which, if it be not a very merry one, is yet as happy as heart could wish." Again, in 1812: — " Of my own goings on, I know not that there is any- thing to be said. Imagine me in tliis great study of mine, from breakfast tUl dinner, from dinner till tea, and from tea tOl supper, in my old black coat, my corduroys alternately \vith the long worsted pantaloons and gaiters in one, and the green shade, and sitting at my desk, and you have my pic- ture and my history. I play -nith Dapper the dog, dowTi stairs, who loves me as well as ever Cupid did, and the cat, up-stairs, plays with me ; for puss, finding this room the quietest in the house, has thought proper to share it with me. Our weather has been so wet that I have not got out of doors for a walk once in a month. Now and then I go down to the river which runs at the bottom of the orchard, and throw stones tni my arms ache, and then saunter back again. I rouse the house to breakfast every morning ; and qualify myself for a boatswain's place by this practice ; and thus one day passes like another ; and never did the days appear to pass so fast." As may readily be supposed, Greta Hall had numerous nsitors during the summer months. Many of these were old acquaintances ; others brought letters of introduction to the poet, and were invariably received with that kindly wel- come which so greatly distinguished his private life. " Here is a man at Keswick," sajs Southey, " who acts upon me as my own ghost would do. He is just what I was in 179-1. His name is Shelley, son to the member for Shoreham ; with £6000 a year entailed upon him, and as much more in his father's power to cut off. Beginning with romances of ghosts and murder, and with poetry at Eton, he passed at Oxford to metaphysics ; printed half-a-dozen pages which he entitled the ' Necessity of Atheism ;' DR. SOUTHEY. 43 sent one anonymously to Coplestone, in expectation, I suppose, of converting him ; was expelled in consequence ; married a girl of seventeen, after being turned out of doors by his father ; and here they both are, in lodgings, living upon £200 a-year, which her father allows them. He is come to the fittest physician in the world. At present he is got to the Pantheistic stage of philo- sophy, and in the course of a week I expect he will be a Berk- leyan, for I have put him upon a course of Berkley. It has sur- prised him a good deal to meet, for the first time in his life, with a man who perfectly understands him, and does him full justice. I tell him that all the difference is, that he is nineteen and I am thirty-seven ; and I dare say it will not be very long before I shall succeed in convincing him that he may be a true philoso- pher, and do a great deal of good, with £6000 a-year ; the thought of which troubles him a great deal more at present than ever the want of sixpence (for I have known such a want) did me. . . . God help us ! The world wants mending, though he does not set about it exactly in the right way." It would be difficult to mention a department of litera- ture not permanently enriched by the pen of Southey during his long- residence here. The list of his published wiitings contains one hundred and nine volumes, besides one hundred and forty-nine articles to different Reviews ! — "a roU," it has been well obseiTcd, "of startling- magnitude." In the Vniage of High Hill — a sad misnomer by the way — is the Crosthwaite Sunday School, a handsome edifice, built at the expense of James Stanger, Esq., Lairthwaite. This institution was founded in 1833, by the present Vicar of Scarborough, the Rev. Dr. Whiteside, and is under the management of the Vicar of Crosthwaite, or officiating minister for the time being ; Mi-. Stanger, Lay-Superin- tendant, has ably conducted the school smce the commence- ment, under whom a large number of both sexes in the parish have received religious instruction ; in his absence, the management has devolved upon the Rev. Montague Valpy, M.A., who is assisted by a valuable body of voluntary teachers. A Day School of Industry for Girls is also held here, sup- 44 KESWICK A^^) its neighbourhood. ported partly by a small weekly charge upon each scholar, partly by subscription and voluntary contribution, and is numerously attended. The Parish Church of Crosthwaite is delightfully situated in the centre of the Vale, about half-a-mile from the town of Keswick. It is dedicated to St. Kentigeru, alias St. Mungo, and was anciently rectorial, but was appropriated with other appanages, by Alice de Romeli, to Fountain's Abbey, York- shire, the patronage of the Vicarage, however, being reserved to the See of Carlisle. It is valued in the King's Books at £50 8s. Whd.y and was certified to the Parliamentary Com- missioners as of the average annual value of £312. In 1845, the tithes were commuted for a yearly rent charge of £432 13s. 2d. The corn-tithes, which were gi-anted to purchasers in trust, have been coimnuted for £103 5s. There was formerly a chantry here, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, endowed with lands and tenements, which, after the dissolution of the monasteries, were granted, in the reign of Edward VI., to one Thomas Breude, scrivener, London. The building consists of a nave, north and south aisles, chancel, tower, and porch. There is no record to show the date of its erection. The interior of the church was re- stored in 1845, at a cost of £4500, of which £4000 was given by James Stanger, Esq., and the remainder by private subscription among the parishioners. The roof is now of beautifully carved and stained pine. The stalls of oak, in canned work. The chancel and five other windows, are of richly-iUuminated glass, representing the Crucifixion and other Scriptural subjects. A ' Memorial Window,' pre- sented by the parishioners, commemorates the 'munificent' restoration and cmbelishment of the Church eff"ected by Mr. Stanger. In the chancel of the Church, is an antique monument of the RatclifiFe fiimily, of Derwentwater, with figures of a knight in armour and liis lady, and the arms of the house, all of bronze, inlaid, and bearing the following in- scription in black letter : — CROSTHWAITE CHURCH. 46 " Of your charity pray for the soul of Sir John Ratcliffe, Knight, and for the soul of Dame Alice his "Wife ; which Sir John died on the 2nd day of February, Ann, Dom, 1527 ; on whose soul have mercy." Beneath this tablet are laid two fiill-leng-th figures of a knight and lady, in composite, of apparently a much older date, but su])posed to represent members of the same house. Tlie baptismal font is an interesting object of anti- quity : its form is hexagonal ; on one of the shields are the ai'ms of Edward III., on the others some curious, but hitherto unexi^lained devices. The tower contains a fine peal of six bells, with an appropriate inscription on each. Thas, onthc marriage beU, — "In Wedlock's bands all ye who join, With hands your hearts unite: So shall our tuneful tongues combine To laud the nuptial rite." On a second,- " Such wond'rous power to music's given. It elevates the soul to Heaven." A^ain, — ♦' If yon have a judicious ear, You'll own my voice is sweet and clear." " Music is medicine to the mind." " Peace and good neighbourhood." '• Although I am but light and small, I will be heard above you all."* • Before the Reformation, bells were baptized and anointed with the chrism, or holy oil. They were exorcised and blessed by the Bishop, from a belief that when these ceremonies had been 46 KESWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. The Monument raised to the memory of Southey, in 1846, ia placed in the interior of the Church. It consists of a full length recumhent iigure, in white marble, on a pedestal of Caen stone, and receives high eulogium both as a faithful likeness and as a work of art. It was executed by Lough, the cost, £1100, being defrayed by subscription among the friends of the Poet. The inscription on the monument ia from the pen of Wordsworth, and is as follows : — Ye Vales and Hills whose beauty hither drew The Poet's steps, and fixed them here — on you His eyes have closed ! And ye loved books, no more Shall Southey feed upon your precious lore, To works that ne'er shall forfeit their renown Adding immortal labours of his own — Whether he traced Historic Truth, with zeal For the State's guidance, or the Church's weal ; Or Fancy disciplined with studious Art Informed his pen, or wisdom of the heart, Or judgment sanctioned in the Patriot's mind, By reverence for the rights of all mankind. Wide were his aims, yet in no human breast. Could private feelings find a holier rest, His joys, his griefs, have vanished like a cloud From Skiddaw's top ; but he to Heaven was vowed Through a life long and pure ; and Christian Faith Calmed in his soul the fear of Change and Death. performed they had power to drive the devil out of the air, calm tempests, and keep away the plague. This practise of baptizing and consecrating bells was introduced by Pope John XIII., in 968. The ritual of these ceremonies is contained in the Roman Pontifical, and is still used in Roman Catholic countries. They were usually consecrated in honour of some Saint, and had dif- ferent inscriptions and sentences upon them, as — When mirth and joy are on the wing — I ring, To call the folks to church in time — I chime. When from the body parts the soul — I toll. Hence, the custom of inscribing bells with mottos is preserved to the present day. CROSTHWAITE CHWlCn. 47 Leading round the tower of the Church, a well-trodden path points to Southey's grave. A plain monumental tablet records his death and that of his wife. The grave is sur- rounded by others of his household. "In a dark and stormy," to use the words of a recent Reviewer, " day of March, 1843, the mortal remains of Robert South oy were deposited in their final abode in Crosthwaite. The over- toiled brain, the liberal and capacious heart, at length rested in the bosom of the mountain land which he had adopted and loved so well. After life's fitful fever he sleeps well, sur- rounded by the children and wife who had passed away before liim." Divine Service is performed at this Church twice every Sabbath, commencing at a quarter to eleven in the morning, and three in the afternoon. Rev. James Lynn, Vicar ; Rev. Montague Valpy, M.A., Curate. A curious but time-honoured custom still prevails here in the manner of electing Churchwardens and Sidesmen of the Parish of Crosthwaite. Accortling to a decree issued 13th Elizabetli (1571), under the Bishop of Carlisle, Henry Lord Scrope, Lord Warden of the West Marshes of England, for Enenst Scotland, Simon Musgrave, Kt., and others, ap- pointed for the hearing of all Causes Ecclesiastical witliin and throughout the whole Provhice of York ; the Vicar of Crosthwaite, the eighteen sworn men (Sidesmen), the Church- wardens ; the Representatives of the House of Derwent- water ; the Sealer and Receiver of the Queen's Majesty's Portion at the Mines ; the BaUiffs of Keswick, Wythbm-n, Bon-owdale, Thornthwaite, Brundholme, and the Forrester of Derwent Fells, are commanded to assemble at Crosthwaite Church upon the afternoon of Ascension-day, and then and there to elect, choose, and nominate the eighteen men for the year to come, and also the Churchwardens. On tlie Smiday following Ascension-day, between the Morning Prayer and the saying of tlie Litany, the Vicar, or in his 48 KESWICK AND ITS NElGHBOUBHOOD. absence, the Curate, administers to the eighteen men nomi- nated the oath following : — " You, and every one of you, now chosen to be for tliis year next coming, the eighteen men for this Parish of Cros- thwaite, shall swear by God and the Holy Contents of the blessed Evangelists here by you bodOy touched, that you and every one of you, shall well and faithfully exercise and exe- cute the office whereunto you be now chosen, to the most Commodity and behoof o? i\\Q. said Parish. The stock and money accruing thereof, you shall maintain, better and not impau", and, finally, you shall faithfully fulfil and accomplish all that unto that office of right or lawful custom shall apper- tain. And at the end of the year you shall render and give up, together with the office, a fidl, perfect, and true account of all, and smgular, the sums by you received and employed, or .bestowed in the said office ; wherein you shall do nothmg ^vithout the consent of the Fellows, or of a greater, or more part of them. And upon the account determined you shall make present pay of the remainder of all such sums of money as shall rest m your hands, and therewithal deliver over to the Successor all such other Implements and Goods, belonging to this Parish, as in yom- hands and custody shall remain by inventory. So God you help by Jesus Christ." A nearly similar oath is then administered to the Church- wardens. The Sidesmen and Churchwardens were couunanded by this decree, " to sell before the first day of December of the the aforesaid year, " All the Popish roliques and monuments of superstition and idolatry, as presently remain in the said Parish, of the Church or Parish goods, converting the prices thereof received to the Parish use wholly, viz., two Pipes of Silver, one Silver Paxe, one Cross of Cloth of Gold, which was on a Vestiment ; one Copper Cross, two Chalices of silver, two Corporase Rases, three Hand Bells, the Iron whereon the Paschal stood, one Pair of Seusures, one Ship, one Head of a Paii* of Sensures, twenty-nine Brazen or CROSTHWAITE FREE GUAJUMAR SCHOOL. 49 Latyne Candlesticks, of six quarters long ; one Holy Water Tankard of Brass : the Canopies which hanged, and that which was carried over the Sacrament, two Brazen or La- tyne Chrismatories, the Vail Cloth, the Sepulcher Cloths, and Painted Cloths, with Pictures of Peter and Paul, and of the Trinity." Divine Service was " forbidden to be publicly said in the Church on any Abrogate Holidays, or any concourse of idle people to Church on such foi'bidden days ; that is to wit, on the Feasts or Days of All Souls, or the evening and night be- fore ; on St. Catherine, St. Nicholas, Thomas a Beckett, St. George ; the Wednesdays in Easter and Wliitsim weeks ; tlie Conception, Assumption, and Nativity of our Lady ; St. Lawrence, Mary Magdalene, St. Ann, or such like ; which are forbidden to be kept Holidays by the Laws of this realm." It was "straitly commanded that none should hereafter pray upon any Beads, Knots, Portasses, Papistical and Superstitious Latyne Primiers, or otherlike forbidden or ungodly Books, either publicly or openly, and that there should be no Communion said, celebrated, or ministered at the Burial of the Dead, nor for any Dead ; nor for any Month's Minds, Anniversaries, or such Superstitions used." CROSTHWAITE FREE GR^VMMAR SCHOOL. In the Decree issued 13th Elizabeth, consideration was had for the better maintaining the common Free Grammar School of Crosthwaite, which was found to be supported by the " Commodities accruing of, and upon certain Stock of Money, put forth to use in the said Parish, which were not great, nor fully sufficient to maintain and support a learned and industrious Schoolmaster there ; it was therefore De- creed, Constituted and Ordained, that, whereas every Fire- house, within the said Parish of Crosthwaite, hath, time out of mind, and yet doth yield, and by the Inhabitants therein yearly, Twopence is paid for the Clerk's Wages, over and besides certain Ordinai'y Fees for Night Watch, Burials. E 60 KESWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. Wedtlings, and over aud besides certain Annual Benevo- lences of Lamb Wool, Eggs, and such like, which seemeth to gTow up to a greater sum yearly than is competent for a Parish Clerk's Wages and stipend, the eighteen men of the said Parish shall this year, and so forth yearly for ever here- after, receive^ collect, gather, and take up the said yearly Contributiojis of Twopence for every Fke-house, to the use of the said Free School, and to the augmenting of the Schoolmaster's Stipend and Salary, paying yearly, on the Sunday next after the Feast of Ascension, unto the Parish Clerk, GaAvin Radcliffe, and his successors, Forty-six Shil- lings and Eightpence, lawful English Money, for his Wages, out of the said Contribution of Twopence for every House, and employing the remainder to the Schoolmaster's use : whereof we will that they yield a full account yearly, at their general Accompts. ********** " And we furthermore Decree and Ordain, and by these presents firmly charge and command, that the said eighteen men do from henceforth occupy the said Stock of Money, to the utmost and greatest Commodity it by any way may thereby, or thereof, accrue or grow to the use of the School; thinking that if the said sums were levied and paid over to purchase of a yearly annuity or rent charge of some free and good Manors or Lordshijjs, upon good and strong as- surance, there might be had about Sixteen Pounds Yearly Annuity for the same, aud faithfully assm-ed. Nevertheless the consideration hereof, and the husbanding the said Stock and Sums, for the behoof of the said Free School, which wholly and utterly leave and refer to the said eighteen men, from time to tune, as to their discretion shall seem most be- hoveable to the said School." A dispute having arisen between Henrj', Lord Bishop of Carlisle, and the eighteen sworn men, respecting the right of collation, placing and displacing of the Schoolmaster, and the Bishop of the Diocese having committed thirteen of the sworn men to prison, an Inquisition was taken at Keswick, in the year CROSTHWAITE FREE GRAMMAR SCHOOL. 61 1616, before Sir William Ilutton, Knight, and others, and a jury of " 13 good and lawful men of the county." The jury presented, upon oath, " That there hath been a Gram- mar School, within the Parish of Crosthwaite, in tlie said County, time Avhereof the memory of man knoweth not tlie contrary ; and that for like time there hath always been by an ancient custom, eighteen men yearly elected by the pre- ceeding" eighteen men ; that the said eighteen sworn men have always by Prescription and Ancient Custom, yea, even times without memory, used and accustomed to choose, place, and displace the Schoolmaster of the said School * * * * that long time since, as the said jurors do plauUy perceive, by the testimony of living witnesses of the age of ninety years or thereabouts, and by the general consent and reputation of the Parishioners, and other good evidence, that divers of the Parisliioners and Inhabitants within the 8aid Parish, and no other to their knowledge, voluntarily and fi-eely, out of their charitable dispositions, for a more certainty and mcrease of maintenance of the said School, gave every of them several Sums of Money, and collected the same together, all amounting, with the Sum which was the ancient School Stock, unto One Hundred and Forty- Eight Pounds Two Shillings and Three Pence Half-penny, which was given and bestowed by them, and delivered over unto the conscionable Care and Trust of the said eighteen sworn men, by them, and those which should succeed them, perpetually so to be employed, that out of the increase thereof, and such other profits as they then had the disposition of, or thereafter might have, to the use of the said School, a competent Yearly Stipend might be raised, and paid by them, unto such Schoolmaster, whom they should choose, and continue from time to time, to teach in the School, for the Education of the Youth of the said Parish." It was therefore Decreed, under the Hands and Seals of th.e Com- missioners and Jurors, that the " eighteen sworn men of the said Parish, now, and from time to time, to be elected here- after, shall be, as of right they are, and ought to be for ever E 2 52 KESWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. hereafter, the Sole and only Governors of the said School and School Stock, * * * and that they shall have the sole and only power and authority of election, collection, placing and displacing of the said Schoolmaster, in the said School, according to their most ancient and laudable cus- tom." About twenty-one years subsequent to the above Inquisi- tion (12th Charles I.) an Obligatory Decree, under the Great Seal of England, appears to have been issued ; whereby the parties are ■ftolled and commanded, finnly, -without distinc- tion, that all and singular whatsoever, in the Decree aforesaid contained and specified (so far as to them or any of them it belongeth or appertauaeth) should fulfil and exe- cute ; and that every of them should fulfil and execute with effect, according to the tenor and the true intention of the Decree aforesaid, under the penalty of £500. These form altogether three exceedingly interesting docu- ments. At what precise period the custom of exacting a yearly payment of Twopence from every fire-house in support of the School ceased, or the recommendation of purchasing a rent-charge was adopted, we have not been able to learn, but the School has now for a long period been solely supported by the funds arising from separate tenements situate within the parish, amounting to about the sum of £113 yearly. It is entirely free to all the parish, and is now attended daily by upwards of one hundred scholars. The return from the Church will be agreeably varied by entering the wicket and taking the footpath leading round LairthAvaite House and groimds to Vicarage Hill, thence through the small but ancient village of Crosthwaite, wliich gives its name to the parish, and, leaving Monks Hall, a venerable farm-stead belonging to the Le Flemings of Ry- dal, on the left, to High Hill again ; Or, turning from tlie Church in a westerly direction, a l)leasant ramble may be enjoyed by crossing the bridge over the river Dorwent and visiting Portinscale, a very NEWL.VNDS. i}^ pretty suburban villuge, justly rising into favour as a phu-c of resort to strangers during tlie summer months. A few- yards beyond tlie Derv/entwater Hotel, the road leading into the vale of Newlands, branches off to the left. Passing Roodland's House, and Derwent Lodge succes- sively on the right, and Derwent Bank on the left : just beyond the latter, enter the gate leading to the lake. Stroll along the beaintlet raised he screen'd his sight As dazzled witli the level light, And from beneath his glove of mail, Scann'd at his ease the lovely vale, While 'gainst the sun his armour bright Gleam'd ruddy like the beacon's light. Paled in by many a lofty hill, The narrow dale lay smooth and still. And down its verdant bosom led, A winding brooklet found its bed, But, midmost of the vale, a mound Arose with airy turret crown'd, Buttress and rampire's circling bound, 78 KESWICK AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. And mighty keep and tower ; Seem'd some primeval giant's hand The Castle's massive walls had plann'd, A ponderous bulwark to withstand Ambitious Nimrod's power. Above the moated entrance slung, The balanced drawbridge trembling hung, As jealous of a foe ; "Wicket of oak as iron hard, With iron studded, clench'd and barr'd ; And prong'd portcullis, join'd to guard The gloomy pass below, But the grey walls no banners crown'd. Upon the watch-tower's airy round No warder stood his horn to sound, No guard beside the bridge was found, And, where the Gothic gateway frown'd. Glanced neither bill nor bow. Beneath the Castle's gloomy pride, lu ample round did Arthur ride Three times; no living thing he spied, Nor heard a living sound. Save, that awakening from her dream, The owlet now began to scream, In concert with the rushing stream, That wash'd the battled mound." On the king's desertion of Guendolen the Castle dis- appears, as Lyulph's relation runs, for " The monarch, breathless and amazed, Back on the fatal Castle gazed — Nor tower nor donjon could he spy. Darkening against the morning sky ; But on the spot where once they frown'd, The lonely streamlet brawl'd around A tufted knoll, where dimly shone Fragments of rock and rifted stone." The spell afterwards cast round the spot by the wizard Merlin id, however, overcome by the lengthened watchings VALE OF AVATENDLATH. 79 of Trieniiain, who gains an entrance and bears away his bride, when tlie magic halls melt away ; but, even now, the Poet tells his Lucy — — " that when a pilgrim strays In morning mist or evening maze, Along the mountain lone^ That fairy fortress often mocks His gaze upon the castled roclis Of the Valley of St. John." Having reached the head of the vale — a distance of about four and a half miles from Threlkeld — tlie higli road leading between Ambleside and Keswick will be gained, and the return will run through the vale of Nathdale — forming an excursion in all of about thirteen miles. VALE OF WATENDLATH. A visit to this secluded valley, returning by way of Ros- thwaite, through Borrowdale, forms a delightful excursion, which no admirer of mountain scenery in its milder and more savage aspects should fail to make ; the distance in about thirteen miles, and can only be performed on foot or on horseback. The road, as far as the entrance of the vale, M'ill be found by referring to the map. The foot- path there shown crosses the stream, by means of a wood bridge, and leads over the hill to High Lodore. The approach to Watendlath is sometimes made, on foot, from the latter place along this path ; the grand scene of Der- wentwater from the head of the Waterfall may then be included by tm-ning to the left and following the sti'cam, in its downward course, for a short distance. Supposing, how- ever, the more regular approach by weople above shouting and hollaing to fright the old birds, wliich flew screamhig round, but did not dare to attack him. He brought off the eaglet (for there is rarely more than one) and an addle egg. The nest was roundish and more than a yard over, made of twigs t\visted together. Seldom a year passes but they take the brood or eggs, and sometimes they shoot one, sometimes the other, parent ; but the survivor has always foimd a mate (probably in Ireland) and they breed near the old place. By his description I learn, that tliis species is the Enie, the Vulture Albicilla of Linnseus. We retm'ued leisurely home the way we came ; but saw a new landscape ; the features indeed were the same in part, but many neAv ones were disclosed by the mid-day sun, and the tints were entirely changed ; take notice, tliis was the best, or perhaps the only day for going up Skiddaw, but I thought it better employed ; it was perfectly serene and hot as midsummer. GRAY S LETTERS. «( In the evening 1 walked alone down to the lake by the side of Crow-park after sunset, and saw the solemn colourinic of night draw on, the last gleam of sunshine fading away on the hill tops, the deep serene of the waters, and the long shadows of the mountains thrown across them, till they nearly touched the hithermost shore. At a distance were heard the murmurs of many waterfalls, not audible in the day-time ; I wished for the moon but she was dark to me. and silent, Hid in her vacant interlunar cave. Oct. 4. — I walked to Crow-park, now a rough pasture, once a glade of ancient oaks, whose large roots stUl remain on the ground, but nothing has sprung from them. If one single tree had remained, this would have been an unparal- leled spot ; and Smith judged right, when he took his print of the lake from hence, for it is a gentle eminence, not too high, on the very margin of the water, and commanding it from end to end, looking full into the gorge of Borrowdale. I prefer it even to Cockshut-hill, which lies beside it, and to which I walked in the afternoon ; it is covered with young trees both grown and planted, oak, spruce, Scotch-fir, &c., all which thrive wonderfully. There is an easy ascent to the top, and the view far preferable to that on Castle-Head (which you remember) because this is lower and nearer to the lake ; for I find all points, that are much elevated, spoil the beauty of the valley, and make its parts, which are not large, look poor and diminutive.* While I was here a little * The Picturesque Point is always thus low in all prospects; a truth, which though the landscape painter knows, he cannot always observe ; since the patron who employs him to take a view of his place, usually carries him to some elevation for that pur- pose, in order, I suppose, that he may have more of him for his money. Yet when I say this, I would not be thought to mean that a drawing should be made from the lowest point possible ; as for instance, in this view from the lake itself, for then a fore- ground would be wanting. On this account, when I sailed on 88 grat's letters. shower fell, red clouds came marching' up the hills from the east, and part of a bright rainbow seemed to rise along the side of Castle-hill. From hence I got to the Parsonage* a little before sunset, and saw in my glass a picture, that if I could transmit to you in all the softness of its living colours, would ftiWy sell for a thousand pounds. This is the sweetest scene I can yet discover in point of pastoral beauty ; the rest are in a sublimer style. f Oct. 5. — I walked through the meadows and corn-fields to the Derwent, and, crossing it, went up to How-HUl ; it looks along Bassenthwaite Water, and sees at the same time the course of the river, and a part of the upper lake, witli a full -sdew of Skiddaw ; then I took my way through Portin- scale village to the Park, a hiU so called, covered with wood ; it is all a mass of crumbling slate. Passed round its foot, between the trees and the edg'e of the water, and came to a peninsula that juts out into the lake, and looks along it both ways ; in front rises Walla Crag and Castle-Head, the town, the road to Penrith, Skiddaw and Saddleback. Returning, met a brisk and cold north-eastern blast, that raffled all the surface of the lake, and made it rise in little waves that broke at the foot of the wootl. After diimer walked up the Penrith road two miles, or more, and turning into a corn- field to the right, called Castlerigg, saw a Druid's circle of Derwentwater, I did not receive so much pleasure from the su- perb amphitheatre of mountains around me, as when, like Mr. Gray, I traversed its margin ; and I therefore think he did not lose much by not taking boat. — Mason's Notes. * Vicarage. — " Mr. Gray carried with him usually on these tours a plano-convex mirror, of about four inches diameter, on a black foil, and bound up like a pocket-book. — Mason's Notes. ■f* Whoever takes this view from Ormathwaite, in a field on the western side of the house, will be convinced of Mr. Gray's loss in want of information. The very spot he stood upon is in the centre of the foreground, and is a principal object in the pas- toral part of the object he praises so highly. — "West. gray's letteks. 89 large stones, one hundred and eight feet in diameter, the biggest not eight feet higli, but most of them still erect ; they are fifty in number. Oct. 6. — Went in a chaise eight miles along the east side of Bassenthwaite Water to Ouse bi-idge ; the road in some parts made and very good, the rest slippery and dangerous cart road, or narrow rugged lanes, but no precipices ; it runs directly along the foot of Skiddaw. Opposite to Withop brows, clothed with wood, a very beautiful view opens down to the lake, which is narrower and longer than that of Kes- wick, less broken into bays, and without islands. At the foot of it, a few paces from the brink, gently sloping upward, stands Armathwaite in a thick grove of Scotch firs, com- manding a noble view directly up the lake ; at a small distance behind the house is a large extent of wood, and still beliind this a ridge of cultivated hills, on which, according to the Keswick proverb, the sun always shines. The sky was over- cast and the wind cool ; so, after dining at a public-house, which stands here near the bridge, and sauntering a little by the water-side, I came home again. The turnpike is finished from Cockermouth hither, five miles, and is carrying on to Penrith. Several little showers to-day. A man came in, who said there was snow on Cross-fell this morning. Oct. 7. — I walked in the morning to Crow-park, and in the evening up the Pem'ith road. The clouds came rolling up the mountains all round very dark, yet the moon shone at intervals. It was too damp to go towards the lake. To- moiTow I mean to bid farewell to Keswick. Botany might be studied here to great advantage at another season, because of the great variety of soils and elevations, all lying witliin a small compass. I observed notliing but several curious lichens, and plenty of gale or Dutch myrtle perfuming the borders of the lake. This year the Wad-mine was opened, which is done once in five years ; it Ls taken out m lumps sometimes as big as a man's fist, and Avill undergo no preparation by fire, not being fusible ; when it is pure, soft, black, and close-gi'ained, it is worth 90 gray's letteus. sometimes thirty shillings a pound. There are no char ever taken in these lakes, hut plenty in Buttermere-water, which lies a little way north of Borrowdale, about Martinmas, which are potted here. They sow chiefly oats and big (barley) here, wliich are now cutting and still on the gi'ound. The rains have done much hurt : yet, observe, no day has passed in which I could not walk out with ease, and you know I am no lover of dirt. Fell mutton is now in season for about six weeks ; it grows fat on the mountains, and nearly resembles venison. Excellent pike and perch, here called ba^ss ; trout is out of season ; partridge in great plenty. Oct. 8. — I left Keswick and took the Ambleside road in a gloomy morning, and about two miles from the town mounted an eminence called Castlerigg, and, the sun breaking out, discovered the most enchanting view I have yet seen of the whole valley behind me, — the two lakes, the river, the mountains all in their glory ; so that I had almost a mind to have gone back again. The road in some few parts is not completed, yet good comitry road, through sound but narrow and stony lanes, very safe m broad day light. Tliis is the case about Causeway foot, and among Naddle Fells to Lanc- waite. The vale you go in has little breadth ; the moun- tains are vast and rocky, the fields little and poor, and the inliabitants are now making hay, and see not the sun by two hours in a day so long as at Keswick. Came to the foot of Ilelvellyn, along which runs an excellent road, looking do'vvn on Leatheswater (called also Tliirlmere or Wythburn-water) and soon descending on its margin. The lake looks black from its depth, and from the gloom of the vast crags that scowl over it, though really clear as glass ; it is narrow, and about three miles long, resembling a river in its course ; little shining torrents hurry dt)-mi the rocks to join it, but not a bush to overshadow them, or cover then- march ; all is rock and loose stones up to the very brow, which lies so near your way, that not above half the height of Helvellyn can be seen. ORAY'a LETTERS. 91 Next I passed by the little chapel of Wythbuni, out of which the cougregation were then issuing ; soon after a a beck near Dunmail-Raise, when I entered Westmorland a second time ; and now began to see Helm-Crag, distinguished from its rugged neighbours, not so much by its height as by the strange broken outlines of its top, Mke some gigantic building demolished, and the stones that composed it flung across each other in wild confusion. Just beyond it opens one of the sweetest landscapes that art ever attempted to imitate. The bosom of the mountains spreading here into a broad basin, discovers in the midst Grasmere Lake ; its margin is hollowed into small bays, with bold eminences, some of rock, some of soft turf, that half conceal and vary the figure of the little lake they command ; from the shore, a low promontory pushes itself far into the water, and on it stands a white village with a parish church rising in the midst of it ; hanging enclosures, cornfields, and meadows green as an emerald, with their trees and hedges, and cattle, fiU up the the space from the edge of the water ; and just opposite to you is a large farm house at the bottom of a steep smooth lawn, embosomed in old woods, which climb half way up the mountain's side, and discover above them a broken line of crags that crown the scene. Not a single red tile, no flaring gentleman's house, or garden walls, break in upon the repose of tliis little unsuspected paradise ; but all is peace, rusticity, and happy poverty in its neatest and most becom- ing attire. §w IttMarg. EXCURSIONS USUALLY MADE FROM KESWICK AS HEAD QUARTERS. -The Land Circixit of Derwent Lake, ixcLi'Diys BowDER Stone: — MILES. 2 To Barrow House and Cascade . . 2 1 — Lodore Hotel and Waterfall . . 3 1 — Village of Grange . , .4 1 — Bowder Stone . . . . 5 1 — Return to Grange . . .6 4'i — Portinscale . . . . lOJ 1 — Keswick . . ; . llj This forms one of the most delightful drives in the dis- trict, aud ought to be supplementary to tlie circuit of the Lake by water. With the aid of our map strangers will have no difficulty in finding their way throughout the whole of their route. If the visit to Bowder Stone be omitted the distance will be reduced to nine and a:-half miles. ITINERART. 93 II. — The Circuit of Bassentuwaite Lake. — 8 To Peel Wjke I — Ouse Bridge . 1 — Castle Inn . 3 — Bassenthwaite Sandbed 5 — Keswick . . 8 9 10 13 18 Much fine scenery observable tbroughout tbis excursion. After passing- through the cbapehy of Thornthwaite, the road enters Wythop Woods, and continues thence to skirt the western shore of the Lake to Ousebridge. West points out Beck- Wythop as a good station for a view of Skiddaw, which appears nowhere of such majestic height as from this place. A fine retrospective view v\ill be obtained from Ousebridge. The return will from thence be through the fertile vale of Bassenthwaite. III. — To Buttermere through Newlands: 1 To Portinscale 1 u — Swinside • 2i i — Stair, a Woollen ^lanufactory 3 2i — Keskadale 5i H — Newlands Hawse n H — Inn at Buttermere 9 IV. — To Buttermere through Borrowdale: — 6 To Rosthwaite H — Seatoller 2 — Summit of the Pass 3 4 — Foot of Honistar Crag u — Gatesgarth i — Hasness u — Inn at Buttermere 9 — Eeturn to Keswick 6 n 9f 10} 12 m 14 23 94 ITINERARY. V. — To Sc.UiE Hill and Buttermere bt Whdt- LATTER : — 2i To Braithwaite Village . 2i ^ — Summit of Whinlatter . 6 2 — Swineside 7 4 — Scale Hill . 11 4 — Buttermere 15 9 — Through Newlands to Keswick 21 VI. — Wastwater bt Borrowdale. — A Two Dat's Excursion on Horseback: — 4 To Grange Bridge 4 2 — Rosthwaite . 6 li — Seatoller Bridge n 1 — Seathwaite . . 8J 2J — Stj head Tarn lU i — Styhead. .... 12 2 — Wastdale Head 14 1 — Head of Wastwater 16 H — Netherbeck Bridge m 3i — Strand's Public House 20 4 — Gosforth. 24 3 — Calder Bridge . . . . 27 This Excursion is usually made with a guide and ponies. Excellent accommodation will be found at Calder Bridge, from wliich place the return on the second day will be by Ennerdale Bridge. Scale Hill, and Buttermere to Keswick — a like distance of twenty-seven miles. vn. — To Patterdale bt Carriage Road. 4i To Threlkeld . . • ^ 6 Leave Penrith Road on the left . lOJ ITINERARY. 95 5 To Dockray . . . . 15J 1 J Junction of the Keswick and Penrith Road at Ljulph's Tower . . .17 4 Inn at Patterdale . . . . 21 VIII. — To Patterd.vle by Horse Road. 3 Leave Penrith Eoad on the left 1 Wanthwaite Mill . . . . Cross the road passing up St. John's Vale, and keep Hill Top on the left 5 Over Threlkeld Pasture to Dockray 6J Inn at Patterdale 9 IX. — To Patterdale bt Foot Path. 4| Ambleside Road to Stainah \ Stainah, on the left 1 jf Highest part of the ascent of foot-path } Greenside Lead Mines 3 Through Glenridden to Penrith road IJ Inn at Patterdale 4f 6 6i 7 10 11} X. — Ascent of Saddleback, or Blencathra, ov Horseback. 4 Threlkeld High Row End Linthwaite Pike . Atkinson's Man Return to Keswick 4 n 8 16 JOHN HUDSON, PUINTEK, KEN'UAL. 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