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JOURNAL 
 
 VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 TO THF. 
 
 Zxttit laegions, 
 
 FN' 
 
 ms MAJESTY'S SHIPS 
 
 HECLA AND GRIPER, 
 
 IN THK YEARS 1810 & 18^20. 
 
 ALEXANDER FISHER, Surgeon 11. N. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTrO Fon 
 LONGMAN, HUR>;T, RKF.S, OR.ME, AND BROWN, 
 
 PATERMOSTER-RDW. 
 
 1821. 
 
 C^^Nl7i4~7.^ 
 
JOURNAL 
 
 VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 TO THT. 
 
 TLxttit Eegtons, 
 
 HIS MAJE^i'lT'S SHIPS 
 
 HECLA AND GRIPER, 
 
 IN THE YEARS 1819 & 1820. 
 
 ALEXANDER FISHER, Surgeon R.N. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED FOR 
 
 LONGMAN, HURST, RRF.S, OR.ME, AND BROWN, 
 
 PATERN'OSTER-ROW, 
 
 1821. 
 
 ">'^-^«-^l. 
 
G4Jb 
 
 
 1^. & /^ /<^»/'»,.La_ 
 
 Printed by A. and R. Spottiswoode^ 
 Printers-Street, London. 
 
The Author being hastily called away to 
 join the new Expedition to the Arctic Regions, 
 has not had an opportunity of coirecting the 
 Press, which he trusts will he accepted as an 
 Apology for any Inaccuracies that may occur 
 in the present hnpression. 
 
 April 21. 1821. 
 
 Mi8ie73 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The object of the Expedition, of which tlie 
 following pages contain a brief Narrative, is 
 already so generally well known, that it re- 
 quires little to be said upon it in the way of 
 preface. Before we sailed on the first Expedi- 
 tion to the Polar Seas, great hopes were enter- 
 tained, from the reports of several masters of 
 Greenland ships, and other persons, that 
 some great change had taken place in the 
 Arctic regions ; in consequence of which 
 they were expected to be found navigable to 
 a greater extent than they had been for some 
 centuries past. From what we saw, however, 
 on that voyage, we had every reason to sup- 
 pose that Nature is nearly as regular and uni- 
 form in her operations there as in other parts 
 of the globe ; for our Greenland masters, 
 who had been in the habit of visiting these 
 
Vlll INTRODUCTION. 
 
 seas annually for nearly twenty years, declared 
 that they observed no material difference in 
 the state of the ice. 
 
 Although the hopes thus raised were in 
 some measure subverted by our first expedi- 
 tion, yet other facts and circumstances, of a 
 more substantial kind, were observed during 
 that voyage, which tended to prove the ex- 
 istence of a North- West Passage in a much 
 clearer manner than the supposititious argu- 
 ments that had been advanced in favour of it 
 before ; for we have reason to believe, from 
 what we saw, that the different wide openings 
 on the north and west side of Baffin's Bay, 
 which were before called Sounds, are exten- 
 sive inlets, leading to another sea in these di- 
 rections ; for the only one of these inlets into 
 which we entered was that which Baffin called 
 Lancaster's Sound ; and from what we ascer- 
 tained of it, I believe that no doubt remained 
 on the minds of most of those who were 
 there, that it was a Strait, or Passage, and 
 not a Sound. This is the rational infer- 
 ence, since we went upwards of eighty miles 
 into it, and yet saw no appearance of land, or 
 any thing else to obstruct our progress. 
 
 Various other circumstances might be men- 
 tioned that tended to make this spacious inlet 
 
INTRODUCTION. IX 
 
 an object of interesting inquiry ; but the ques- 
 tion respecting it has already been so much 
 agitated, that it is unnecessary to say any 
 thing on the subject, farther than that one of 
 the principal objects of the Expedition was 
 to explore it. 
 
 The vessels appointed for this service were 
 His Majesty's ships Hecla and Griper, the 
 former a vessel of nearly four hundred tons, 
 and from her construction, (having been built 
 for a bomb,) well adapted for stowage, — an 
 object of the first importance where we were 
 obliged to carry fuel, provisions, stores, and 
 indeed every article that we were furnished 
 with for the voyage. The Griper was a 
 much smaller vessel than the Hecla, having 
 been formerly a twelve-gun brig. Her ac- 
 commodations, however, were considerably 
 improved by her having been rose upon ; 
 but she was notwithstanding very much in- 
 ferior to the other ship in every respect, as she 
 neither sailed so well, nor did she carry her 
 . own supply of provisions, &c. ; for, although 
 the Expedition was furnished with stores and 
 provisions for two years, yet, in less than half 
 that time, the Griper required to be supplied 
 from the Hecla with different articles. In 
 other respects, however, their equipment was 
 
X INTRODUCTION. 
 
 very good, and nothing was neglected to 
 render them fit for the service on which they 
 were to be employed. They were strength- 
 ened in every way, as much as wood and iron 
 could strengthen them, having, in the first 
 place, the whole of their outside, from the 
 keel to some distance above the water-line, 
 covered with an extra lining of oak-plank, 
 from three to four inches thick, and, within, 
 a number of additional beams, and other 
 timbers, put into their hold, in order that 
 they might withstand the pressure of the ice, 
 in the event of their being caught between 
 two floes of it. Their bows were also covered 
 with strong plates of iron, to defend them 
 from receiving damage by striking against 
 the floating ice. They were likewise fitted 
 up, inside, so as to make the accommodations 
 of both officers and men as comfortable as 
 the size of the vessels would admit. To guard, 
 as much as possible, against the rigour of the 
 climate, we were also provided with standing 
 bed-places, which were deemed to be warmer 
 than cots, or hammocks ; and, in the event of 
 our not effecting the passage, we were pro- 
 vided with planks, tarpaulins, and Russian- 
 mats, for housing the ships during the winter, 
 so as to be able to take exercise on deck in 
 bad weather. The men, as on the former 
 
INTRODUCTION. XI 
 
 voyage, were furnished by Government with 
 a suit of warm clothes, and a wolf-skin blan- 
 ket, gratis. 
 
 The means of preserving the health of the 
 crews were also well attended to ; for besides 
 the salt provisions being of a good quality, 
 and recently cured, there was a large quantity 
 of Messrs. Donkin and Hall's preserved meats 
 and soups supplied. Antiscorbutics, of dif- 
 ferent kinds, were also provided, such as 
 lemon-juice, sour-crout, essence of spruce, 
 and essence of malt and hops ; and, in case of 
 our meeting with Indians or Esquimaux that 
 could supply us with provisions, or any thing 
 else that might be useful, Government sent 
 with us a considerable quantity of toys, and 
 other articles, to barter for whatever they 
 might have to interchange. These articles 
 consisted of jackets and trowsers of coarse 
 • cloth, shirts, brass-kettles, knives, forks, and 
 spoons, looking-glasses, glass-beads of various 
 colours, and other matters, either for use or 
 ornament. In fact, every thing had been 
 provided that was deemed likely to be of use 
 in forwarding the object of the Expedition^ 
 and in making those who were employed on 
 it as comfortable as the nature of the service 
 would admit. 
 
4 
 
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 MKLVILL.E ISLA]VI>. 
 
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A JOURNAL 
 
 OF 
 
 THE PROCEEDINGS OF HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP 
 
 HECLA. 
 
 TuESDAt, May 4ith, 1819. — Many interesting par- 
 ticulars connected with our expedition might be 
 mentioned prior to the details of this day ; but as 
 they cannot, strictly speaking, be considered as 
 forming a part of the occurrences of the voyage, I 
 shall begin my narrative only from the time that we 
 started from Deptford. We have been ready for 
 sailing for some days past, but during that time the 
 wind has been from the eastward, which prevented 
 our departure. In order therefore to avoid farther 
 delay, steam vessels were applied for to tow us d5)wn 
 yesterday : but, in consequence of the great demand 
 for these vessels for some time past, none could be 
 procured until this morning ; the delay occasioned 
 was not, however, much regretted, as it afforded many 
 an opportunity of passing another night amongst 
 their friends whom they were on the point of leaving 
 for some time. The eventful moment of departure 
 at length arrived, for at a quarter before eight o'clock 
 this morning, we cast off from His Majesty's hulk 
 
2 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 • Dedaingneiise, and were immediately taken in tow 
 by the Eclipse steam-boat, which, notwithstanding 
 the wind, and, for some part of the time, the tide were 
 against us, managed to take us down to Northfleet, 
 a distance, I believe, of eighteen miles, in less than 
 live hours ; for we made fast to one of the buoys at 
 the above place at half past twelve o'clock. 
 
 The appearance of the country along the banks of 
 the river, as we went down, was at this time ex- 
 tremely beautiful, particularly on the right side, 
 where the villas, &c. that adorn that bank were seen 
 to tlie greatest advantage, surrounded with groves of 
 fruit and other trees, all in blossom, and the mea- 
 dows which lay between them and the river abound- 
 ing with the most luxuriant vegetation, on which 
 were feeding numerous flocks, and herds of sheep 
 and black cattle. In fact, nature and art seemed as 
 if they had combined their efforts, in order to give us 
 a beautiful specimen of the scenery of our native 
 isle, that we might contrast it with the dreary pro- 
 spects that we soon expected to see in the frozen 
 regions we were about to visit ; the comparison 
 might, indeed, at this time be made by most of us, 
 as the greatest part had already seen the snow-clad 
 mountains of the frigid zone. 
 
 As there was only one steam-boat procured, that 
 which brought us down returned immediately (we 
 made fast) for the Griper, and arrived with her a 
 little before eleven o'clock at night. 
 
 I cannot omit mentioning, in this place, a certain 
 coincidence that has occurred with respect to the 
 day of the month that the expeditions on discovery- 
 sailed last year, and this ; for it was on the 4th of 
 April we sailed from Deptford last year, and although 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 3 
 
 a month later this year, it appears somewhat remark- 
 able, that, without any preconcerted plan, it should 
 happen to be the same day of the month on whicli 
 we commence the second voyage. 
 
 Thursday y 6th. — We received (from Woolwich) 
 all our ordnance-stores to-day, except the powder, 
 which is expected down to-morrow. 
 
 To guard as much as possible against the magnetic 
 influence of iron upon the compasses, a pair of brass 
 guns (six pounders) have been sent for the quarter 
 deck. After the guns and other stores were placed 
 in the respective places where it is intended they are 
 to remain, an experiment was performed for the pur- 
 pose of ascertaining the effect of local attraction on 
 the compasses ; or, to use the term that has been 
 lately adopted, to determine the deviation of the 
 compass, or magnetic needle, with the ship's head 
 brought to the different points of the compass. As 
 the result of this experiment may be better under- 
 stood by a diagram of the operation than by words 
 only, I have drawn a sketch of the whole process 
 (see Appendix), which exhibits at one view the 
 amount of deviation with the ship's head on every 
 point of the compass except west, W. by S., and 
 W. S. W., the tide being so strong that the ship's 
 head could not be kept steady on these points. 
 
 Friday y '^th, — We received our powder this morn- 
 ing, and at two o'clock in the afternoon we cast off 
 and made sail, but the wind being against us, we 
 ^ot no farther than that part of the river called the 
 Lower Hope, where we anchored between four and 
 five in the afternoon. 
 
 We were agreeably surprised to-day to find that 
 the Griper behaved so well under canvass j for the 
 
 B 2 
 
A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 general opinion was, from the trial made with her 
 some time ago at Deptford, that she would be very 
 crank. The breeze we had to-day was not indeed 
 sufficiently strong to enable us to judge with certaint}' 
 of her qualities as a sea-boat ; I shall therefore avoid 
 saying any thing more respecting her for the pre- 
 sent, as we shall have many opportunities hereafter 
 ofjudging of her under circumstances that will enable 
 us to speak with certainty of her good or bad qua- 
 lities. All that can be said at present is, that she an- 
 swers beyond expectation, inasmuch that all those 
 who had any doubts respecting her, and saw her 
 under weigh to-day, are already perfectly satisfied of 
 her safety as far as her construction is concerned in 
 rendering her sea-worthy. 
 
 With respect to the Hecla, she appears to answer 
 every expectation, in being one of the fittest vessels 
 that could possibly be chosen for the service we are 
 going upon, for she is easily worked, is very capa- 
 cious for a vessel of her tonnage, and is remarkably 
 strong, a quality of the first importance in the re- 
 gions we are bound to explore. 
 
 As to the sailing qualities of either vessel, very 
 little can as yet be said ; it would be preposterous, 
 however, to suppose that ships bound up with wood 
 and iron, in the way in which they are, can be fast 
 sailers ; and even if they were, it would be only a 
 quality of secondary consideration : for our business 
 is not to run, and have only a bird's-eye view of the 
 places we pass, but to examine with patience and 
 perseverance ; " for who knows what there is, where 
 man has never been ?'* 
 
 Saturday t Sth. — We got under weigh early this 
 morning, and worked down as far as Sea-Reach, 
 
 lo 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. t5 
 
 where we anchored about seven o'clock, A. M., being 
 unable to proceed any farther, on account of the flood- 
 tide beginning to flow. We weighed again about 
 noon, and worked down to the Nore, where we an- 
 chored between four and five o'clock in the afternoon. 
 
 Immediately we anchored, the Bee Tender came 
 alongside with the chronometers, and the different 
 nautical, astronomical, and meteorological instru- 
 ments, &c. supplied for the expedition. With regard 
 to the number and variety of these instruments, we 
 are, as may be seen from the list in the Appendix, as 
 amply supplied as any expedition that ever left this, 
 or, perhaps, any other country before. Besides the 
 instruments provided by government, most of the 
 officers have some of their own, so that altogether 
 it may be presumed we are, as I have just said, as 
 well furnished with the means of fulfilling all the 
 nautical and other scientific objects of the expedition 
 as any of the illustrious navigators who have been 
 employed on similar pursuits before us. 
 
 Monday, 10th. — The ship's companies were paid 
 this afternoon the wages due to them since tliey 
 joined the ships, together with three months' ad- 
 vance, in order to enable them to purchase clothing, 
 and such other articles as they might deem necessary 
 for the voyage ; and in case any of them, from care- 
 lessness, or due consideration of the climate they 
 are going to, should neglect to provide themselves 
 with the articles of clothing most necessary for their 
 own comforts, a list was made of those things that 
 were deemed indispensably necessary, with which 
 every man was ordered to furnish himself. 
 
 In the evening, a lighter came alongside with four 
 bullocks, some casks of beer, and as much fresh water 
 
 B 3 
 
6 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 as completed our stock of that necessary article for 
 some months, so that we are now perfectly ready to 
 take our departure. 
 
 Tuesday, 11th. — The anxious moment of the ac- 
 tual commencement of our voyage has at length 
 arrived ; for, at ten o'clock this forenoon we weighed 
 and made sail with a fine breeze from the westward, 
 wliich enabled us, before dark, to get clear of that 
 intricate passage the Swir, and the different shoals 
 with which this part of the coast abounds. 
 
 We commenced our meteorological register to-day 
 at noon, the temperature of the air in the shade was 
 at that time 62° ; that of sea-water at the surface .57°, 
 and the height of the barometer 30.19 inches. The 
 specific gravity of the sea-water is intended to be 
 taken also every day at noon ; but it would be use- 
 less to take it to-day, as it would undoubtedly be 
 affected by the fresh water from the Thames, and 
 the numerous smaller streams that discharge their 
 contents into the sea about this place. The temper- 
 ature of the air and water, as above stated, is to be 
 taken every two hours, both day and night, and the 
 height of the barometer four times a day ; viz. at six 
 o'clock in the morning, noon, six in the afternoon, 
 and midnight. The direction of the wind, and state 
 of the weather, is also to be noted at the time of 
 registering the above observations, together with any 
 other phenomena connected with meteorology that 
 may occur. 
 
 fVednesdai/, 12th. — We have been enabled within 
 these two days to judge of the comparative merits, 
 in point of sailing, of the two ships (before the 
 wind), with a degree of certainty that puts the 
 matter completely beyond doubt ; the disparity, in- 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 7 
 
 deed, is so considerable, that it was deemed ne- 
 cessary to take the Griper in tow this morning. We 
 were obliged to anchor this evening abreast of Win- 
 terton Lights, owing to the wind getting so light 
 that it was impossible to stem the flood-tide. 
 
 Thursday f \Sth. — We weighed again last night, 
 and worked to the northward until seven o'clock this 
 morning, when we were again forced to bring to, 
 until the tide came in our favour, which took place 
 about one o'clock. We dropped anchor again in the 
 evening, to preserve the ground we had gained in 
 the course of the afternoon. We had considerable 
 satisfaction to find, to-day, that the Griper answers 
 remarkably well upon a wind, a very essential quality 
 indeed in some situations we may happen to be placed 
 in. 
 
 Friday y 14fth. — We got under weigh again this 
 morning, and were making the best of our way to 
 the northward until a quarter before five o'clock, 
 when we were all on a sudden a little startled by the 
 ship striking on the east end of Sheeringham Shoal. 
 The shock, or rather the shocks, for she touched 
 three times, brought almost every person on deck 
 in a few minutes ; but before most of us got there, 
 all was right again. I suspect, indeed, that had it 
 not been for the rough sea that was running, which 
 caused the ship to pitch considerably, that she would 
 have gone over it without touching ; but, fortunately, 
 even as it was, there was no damage done. 
 
 Thursday, 14>th. — The wind being still against us, 
 it would again be necessary to anchor when the ebb 
 tide was done ; but from the freshness of the breeze, 
 the sea got up so much that this could not be done 
 on an open coast such as we were on, without run- 
 
 B 4 
 
8 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 ning the risk of loosing an anchor and cable. In 
 consideration of these circumstances it was deemed 
 the most proper measure to put back to Yarmouth 
 Roads, which was the nearest port, and there to re- 
 main until we should be favoured with wind that 
 would enable us to resume our voyage with some 
 prospect of success. Our stay here was agreeably to 
 our wishes of very short duration, for we only arrived 
 there at half past one o'clock, and, about midnight, 
 we were again under weigh. During the time we 
 lay in the Roads, we were visited by Captain Wells 
 and some of the officers of His Majesty's ship Wye, 
 which lay at anchor here. 
 
 Saturday i 15th. — We have been employed all day 
 working to the northward, and in the evening it fell 
 calm, so that we were as usual obliged to anchor, to 
 prevent our being carried by the tide amongst the 
 sands that lay off this part of the coast. 
 
 Sunday, l6th, — We got under weigh again early this 
 morning, and made all sail, the wind having at length 
 sprung up right in our favour ; this being the Griper's 
 worst point of sailing, she was again taken in tow. 
 In the course of the forenoon, divine service was per- 
 formed, which almost the whole of the officers .and 
 ship's company were able to attend, the weather 
 being so fine that their service was not required on 
 deck. During the day, we passed several flocks of that 
 species of diver called by Linnaeus Colymbus Traile, 
 and commonly known to seamen, by the name of Loon, 
 or Willock. These birds must be very widely scat- 
 tered over the northern seas ; for we found them last 
 year in great numbers in Davis's Straits, and Baffin's 
 Bay, and occasionally in different parts of the At- 
 lantic du)ii)g our passage across it. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 9 
 
 Monday i V^th. — We discharged our pilot this 
 morning into the Swallow revenue cutter. He was 
 charged with a considerable number of letters from 
 the officers and men, this being, in all probabiUty, the 
 last opportunity that we shall have for some time of 
 sending letters to our friends. In the course of the 
 day, we saw several of the divers called in the Lin- 
 neean arrangement Alca Arcticay and commonly deno- 
 minated by seamen Puffin. 
 
 Tuesday y 18th. — Nothing occurred to-day worthy 
 of remark, the weather continues very fine, and the 
 wind still in our favour ; in the course of the after- 
 noon we had a distant view of Morven Hill, and 
 several other mountains in Banffshire, that appeared 
 as it were rearing their lofty summits out of the 
 ocean. 
 
 r^fm/'^ 
 
 Wednesday, \^th, — A similar appearance was pre- 
 sented to-day by Fair Island, on being first seen^ It 
 is not indeed of any great height, but it is a fact well 
 known in optics, that, unless a person has something 
 of a correct idea of the distance of an object, he will 
 fancy it great or small, according as he estimates its 
 distance. I do not mean to imply by this, however, 
 that we were ignorant of the distance Fair Island was 
 from us ; but merely, that, if we could suppose it to 
 be as far from us as the hills in Banff were when 
 seen yesterday, we should necessarily imagine it to 
 
10 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 be of considerable height. We continued to approach 
 it until four o'clock in the afternoon, at which time 
 it fell calm, the island at that time bearing north- 
 east of us, and distant about five leagues. In order 
 to profit as much as possible by the delay caused by 
 the weather, the ship's company turned to, to fish, at 
 which they were pretty successful, for a considerable 
 number of cod and coal-fish were caught in course 
 of the afternoon. 
 
 On the back and sides of the cod, at least such of 
 them as I examined, I observed several small insects 
 of two different species, one of the shape of a tad- 
 pole with a forked tail, and the other not unlike a 
 small shrimp. During the day, we saw several solan 
 geese (Anas BassanuSy Lin.), Mallemuckes or Fulmar 
 Peterel (Procellaria Glacialis, Lin.), and a bird some- 
 what resembling a Rail, which kept at such a dis- 
 tance that we were not able to make out with any 
 certainty what species it was. 
 
 Thursday y 9.0th. — Our progress was retarded again 
 to-day by calm weather, which continued until six 
 o'clock in the afternoon, when we were again favoured 
 with a fine breeze from the north-east (comp.), which 
 enabled us, in the course of the evening, to get round 
 the north end of the Orkneys, some of which were 
 in sight the whole day. We had a very distinct view 
 of two or three of them, particularly Ronaldsha, and 
 Sandi, on the latter of which there is a light-house. 
 The appearance of these islands were well calculated 
 to prepare our minds to view the regions we are 
 about to visit, with some degree of tolerance ; for if, 
 instead of comparing them to the fertile banks of the 
 Thames, we compare them to these bleak islands. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 
 
 11 
 
 the contrast would not differ much wider than if our 
 landscape views to-day were compared to those de- 
 scribed on the fourth instant. 
 
 Such of the Orkney islands as we had an op- 
 portunity of seeing, might, in general, be de- 
 scribed as hilly, but neither high nor rugged, and 
 declining gradually, although not with an even 
 surface, from their middle towards the sea, where 
 they in some places terminate in abrupt precipices. 
 The summer did not appear to have hardly com- 
 menced here yet ; the ground was indeed clear of 
 snow, but vegetation had made but very little pro- 
 gress ; for the sides of the hills appeared in the re- 
 mains of their last year's garb, viz. withered grass, 
 and such hardy herbs as the rigour of the winter had 
 not been able to destroy. We spoke this forenoon a 
 Danish brig from Copenhagen bound to Disco ; we 
 asked her name, and several other questions, but 
 owing to the distance she was off, their answers were 
 but very indistinctly heard. She kept in company, 
 or rather in sight, the whole day, but kept edging 
 to the northward more than we did, so that, in the 
 evening, she was a considerable distance from us. 
 We saw several Kittiwakes (Larus Tridactylus, Lin.) 
 to-day, for the first time this voyage. 
 
 Friday, 9,1st.. — Nothing occurred to-day worthy 
 of remark ; in the forenoon we lost sight of the 
 northernmost of the Orkney islands, and in the even- 
 ing we descried the islands of Barra, and Rona, 
 
12 A VOYAGE OF DJSCOVEUY 
 
 which are usually reckoned the northernmost land in 
 Europe. It was dusk before we approached near 
 enough to be able to have any thing of a good view 
 of them. 
 
 Saturday, QQ.d. — The breeze happened however to 
 be so light during the night, that we only passed 
 them between seven and eight o'clock this morning, 
 and at such a distance (four or five miles), that we 
 could see them very plainly. Rona appeared to be 
 considerably larger than the other, and is, I under- 
 stand, inhabited : their distance apart was estimated 
 to be about eight miles. Their appearance in every 
 respect was similar to the Orkney islands, to which 
 groupe indeed they may be considered to belong, 
 although at a considerable distance from it. 
 
 Whilst in the neighbourhood of these islands, we 
 saw a great many sea-fowls, particularly of the Peterel 
 tribe, (viz. Fulmar), and Kittiwake gull. These 
 islands, like St. Kilda, and other solitary rocks in this 
 part of the world, are particularly well calculated for 
 being the resort of sea-fowls; because,' in the first 
 place, they liave around them a wide expanse of that 
 element from which they derive their food ; and, in 
 the second place, the inaccessible precipices which 
 here and there overhang the sea, aiford them asylums 
 to build their nests in, which the daring inhabitants, 
 with all their intrepidity, cannot always molest. 
 
 We threw a quart bottle overboard this afternoon, 
 containing half a sheet of foolscap paper, on which was 
 printed, in six different languages, a request that the 
 person who should happen to pick it up, should send 
 it to the Secretary of the Admiralty, or the Minister 
 ef Marine, of the country to which the person be- 
 longed, with a note of the time and place where it 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 13 
 
 was found. Besides the request, the lat. and long, 
 of the ship at the time, and the temperature of the 
 air, and sea-water, the force and direction of the 
 wind, and the state of the weather, were also inserted 
 on it. As the whole may be better understood by 
 giving a copy of the paper itself, I shall insert in the 
 Appendix all that it contained. It is intended to 
 throw one of these papers overboard e\'ery day in 
 order to increase the probability of some of them 
 being picked up. 
 
 The object of them is to afford data for detecting 
 the force and direction of currents in these seas. 
 By knowing the time and place where they were 
 thrown into the sea, and the place and time, where, 
 and when they were found, it is very clear that this 
 object may, in a great measure, be determined, for 
 the elapsed time will give the force, and the relative 
 situation the direction of the current ; that is, if the 
 bottle is found immediately, it is driven on shore, or 
 out of the influence of the current. 
 
 Some of the bottles that we threw overboard last 
 year for the same purpose, tended very materially to 
 throw some light on this subject. Already one of 
 them was received at the Admiralty some time before 
 we sailed ; it was picked up in Killala Bay, in Ire- 
 land, about the latter end of March, and it appeared 
 by the date upon it, and the geographical situation 
 of the ship at the time it was dispatched, that it 
 floated about one thousand and eighty miles in the 
 course of ten months, which is upward of three miles 
 a day during the whole time. 
 
 There was another of our bottles picked up by a 
 Danish vessel some time before we left England, but 
 
14 A voyaiSe of discovery 
 
 I have not heard the particulars respecting the time, 
 and place where it was found. 
 
 It is almost unnecessary to add, that the mouth of 
 the bottle is first secured by a tight cork, which is 
 covered with sealing wax, having the ship's name 
 impressed on it, and over that a piece of white cot- 
 ton, with a view of making it more conspicuous, and 
 thereby render it more likely to attract notice. 
 
 Sunday, 9,3d. — Divine service was performed this 
 forenoon, at which were present almost the whole of 
 the officers and ship's company, the weather being so 
 fine that very few hands were required on deck. 
 
 Monday y 24}th. — We had a distant view to-day of 
 that remarkable insulated rock, called Rockal ; it 
 looked at the distance we were from it (viz< between 
 four and five leagues) exactly like a ship under sail : 
 it was reported indeed by the person who first saw it 
 to be a strange vessel. Its resemblance not only in 
 form, but also its colour, tended to make the decep- 
 tion more complete, for it appeared to be perfectly 
 white, a hue most probably produced by the excre- 
 ment of birds. Our distance from it indeed was too 
 great to enable us to speak with certainty on this 
 head ; but, from the number of birds we saw in its 
 neighbourhood, and its insular situation, we may 
 fairly conclude that it is well inhabited by the 
 feathered race, for here they are perfectly secure 
 from the attacks of their greatest enemy, man. 
 
 If we estimated our distance from it at all correctly, 
 its situation, as determined by His Majesty's ship 
 Endymion, is very accurately laid down, at least inas- 
 much as it agrees with the mean of the results of the 
 sights taken for our chronometers.* In the course 
 
 ♦ Lat. 57° 39' 30" N. and longitude 13° 30' W. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 15 
 
 of the afternoon, when at least forty miles from this 
 rock, we found soundings in one hundred and fifty 
 fathoms water ; so that it may be regarded as the 
 summit of a very extensive submarine mountain, 
 whose sides, at least the western one, declined very 
 gradually. 
 
 Thursday, 9rith. — Nothing has occurred for these 
 two days past worthy of remark, the weather has 
 been, generally speaking, very fine j the temperature 
 oi the air being most commonly at 50°, and of the 
 sea at the surface about a degree less. This after- 
 noon the weather being almost perfectly calm, we 
 availed ourselves of the opportunity of trying for 
 soundings, on the supposed sunken land of Buss, 
 according to its situation by Lieutenant Pickersgill ; 
 who, on his passage to Davis's Straits in the year 
 1776, struck soundings with a line of three hundred 
 and twenty fathoms in the very place * where we 
 happened to get becalmed this afternoon, but, strange 
 to say, although we had one thousand one hundred 
 and twenty fathoms of line out, we found no bottom. 
 It ought not to be inferred from this, however, that 
 the bank on which that officer sounded does not 
 exist, for it is more reasonable to suppose that he 
 might be mistaken in his longitude of the place, than 
 that the existence of the bank itself should be ques- 
 tioned, more especially as some of our latest charts 
 (by Steel) lay the sunken land of Buss down several 
 degrees to che westward of where vre sounded to- 
 day. I shall therefore forbear saying any thing more 
 concerning this lost land at present, as we shall most 
 
 * The latitude and longitude of the place where Pickersgill 
 struck soundings are 57° N. and 24° 24' W. which agrees with our 
 situation this afternoon at the time we sounded. 
 
16 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 probably, in a short time, have an opportunity of de- 
 termining whether it exists where it is laid down on 
 the charts. 
 
 In tlie mean time, however, it may not be amiss to 
 say a few words respecting the authorities on which 
 the former existence of the land in question rests. 
 The first account we have of it, is derived from frag- 
 ments of journals, and letters written by Nicolo, and 
 Antonio Zeno, two Venetian navigators, who were 
 employed about the latter end of the fourteenth cen- 
 tury by a Scandinavian prince, named Zichmni, in 
 making discoveries in the north seas. And among 
 other places discovered by these navigators, is men- 
 tioned a large island which obtained the name of 
 Fricsland, situated to the southward of Iceland ; but 
 the whole account of this, as well as of most of the 
 other lands that they explored, is so confused and 
 imperfect, that it is impossible to know the situation 
 of the places they speak of; and some writers have 
 gone so far even as to consider their voyages a ro- 
 mance altogether, which I think is rather too harsh 
 a conclusion, for although the imperfect state in 
 which the accounts of their discoveries have been 
 handed down to us, render them of no real utility, 
 we ought not, without some good reasons, to regard 
 them as fabulous. 
 
 From the time of the Zenos, two centuries had 
 nearly elapsed before any thing more was heard of 
 their Friesland, when its existence was again revived 
 by one of the ship's belonging to Martin Frobisher's 
 fleet (on his third voyage), having, on her return home 
 in the year 1578, fallen in with a large island covered 
 with wood, in latitude 57", 30' N., along which she 
 sailed for three days. The vessel's name was the 
 
TO THE AllCTH; REGIONSV 17 
 
 Busse, of Bridgewater, from which tlie island ob- 
 tained the name of Buss. This then, I believe, is 
 the last account we have of this mysterious island, 
 whose supposed ruins we have this afternoon been 
 trying to find. 
 
 Whilst sounding to-day, we availed ourselves of 
 the opportunity thereby afforded, of ascertaining the 
 temperature of the sea, at as great a depth as it had 
 perhaps ever been obtained before. A self-regis- 
 tering thermometer was tied to the sounding line at 
 the distance of ten fathoms from the lead, or rather 
 the clamm* ; for it was the instrument used on this 
 occasion. Allowing, then, that there were one hun- 
 dred fathoms of stray-line or inclination from the per- 
 pendicular, which I think is the utmost that could 
 be, the thermometer must have gone upwards of one 
 thousand fathoms below the surface. The temper- 
 ature indicated by it at this depth was 45^°, the tem- 
 perature of the water at the surface at the same time 
 being 481°, and the air 49J^ 
 
 Friday^ ^28th. — We found to-day the temperature 
 of water brought from the depth of one hundred 
 and thirty fathoms by Dr. Marcett's Water Bottle t 
 to be 48^°, both the air and sea at the surface 
 being at the time 49°. 
 
 Monday y 31 st. — We tried yesterday and to-day X 
 
 * This instrument is intended to bring up a greater quantity of 
 sounding, (that is, of the mud, &c. at the bottom) than the usual 
 arming of the lead was capable of bringing up. 
 
 f The use of this machine is to bring water up from the bottom, 
 or indeed from any other depth that a person may require ; for 
 the shot or weight that shuts the bottle is not let go until it is at 
 the bottom, or at the depth that the water is to be brought from. 
 
 X Our latitude yesterday at noon was 57° 46' N. and longitude 
 29° 09' W., and to-day latitude 58^ 13' N. and longitude 30° 20'. W. 
 
 C 
 
18 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 i'oT soundings, with one liundred and sixty fathoms 
 of line, but found no bottom. The object for sound- 
 ing, on this occasion, was to ascertain whether a bank 
 exists in the place where the sunken land of Buss 
 is laid down on Steel's cliart ; but our researches 
 here, as on Pickersgill's bank, have been in vain ; 
 so that I think the existence of any remains of Buss*s 
 Land (if it ever had any) may now be very justly 
 questioned. At all events, hydrographers may, with 
 perfect safety, hencefortli expunge from their charts 
 all traces of it in either of the places hitherto as- 
 signed to it ; or, in other words, in those two situ- 
 ations where we were induced to look for it. 
 
 Tuesday y June 1st. — Notwithstanding the season 
 is advancing, the weather has been for these two days 
 past colder and more disagreeable than we have had 
 it since we left England ; the cold indeed has not 
 been sufficient to put us to any inconvenience, but 
 the weather being for the most part of the time 
 foggy and rainy, rendered it somewhat uncomfort- 
 able. 
 
 Several snow-buntings (^Emberiza Nivalis^ Lin.) 
 were observed in the course of the day flying about 
 the ship, we supposed from the direction of the wind 
 (about N. W. true) that they have been blown off 
 the coast of Greenland, from which we were distant 
 at noon three hundred and seventy-six; miles. 
 
 Several Arctic gulls (^Larus Parasiticus, Lin.) 
 were seen to-day for the first time. This bird is 
 commonly called by our Greenland seamen the boat- 
 swain, and sometimes dirty Allen, a name somewhat 
 analogous to that by which it is characterized by the 
 Danes, viz. Stroudt-jager, or dung-bird. All these 
 names have had their origin from a mistaken notion 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 1^ 
 
 that these birds lived on the excrement of the lesser 
 gulls, which, on being pursued, either from fear, or 
 to relieve themselves from the prosecution of fierce 
 enemies, voided something to satiate the voracious 
 appetites of their pursuers, and by that means escape 
 from further molestation at that time. The fallacy of 
 this opinion is now, however, pretty generally known. 
 That the Arctic gulls do pursue those of their own 
 genus which they can master (particularly the kitti- 
 wakes) is an incontestable fact ; but the object of 
 their pursuit is not the excrement but the prey that 
 the pursued is at that time possessed of, and which 
 at length they are forced to drop, to secure their 
 own safety ; which they effect during the time that 
 their enemy is employed picking it up, although that 
 is done in a very short period, for they manage the 
 business with such dexterity, that the object dropped 
 is caught before it reaches the water. 
 
 Gulls are not the only birds that disburden them- 
 selves of their prey when pursued, for I have often 
 observed last summer that the fulmar peterel ormal- 
 lemucke, when approached whilst feeding, (which I 
 have seen them always do sitting on the water,) not 
 only abandon their food, but even disgorge what 
 they had swallowed before they would, or, as I ima- 
 gined, could, take their flight. Several of them that 
 we caught alive at different times, exhibited other 
 proofs of the facility or power which they possess of 
 unloading themselves of the contents of their sto- 
 machs J for whenever a person approached them sud- 
 denly, they ejected a spout of oil from their nostrils. 
 This is considered by naturalists (which I have no 
 doubt is the case) a means of defence for these 
 birds. 
 
 C !2 
 
^0' A VOYAGK OF DISCOVERY 
 
 A bird resembling a snipe was also seen to-day, 
 but we had such an imperfect view of him that it 
 was impossible to determine what species he be- 
 longed to. 
 
 Wednesday^ ^id. — The weather has been ra- 
 ther boisterous the whole of this day; in the after- 
 noon in particular it blew a strong gale of wind, 
 which soon rose a heavy sea ; and, if we are to put 
 any confidence in an augury, which seamen always 
 regard as a sure indication of bad weather, we may 
 anticipate a heavy gale very soon. The augury I 
 allude to is the appearance this afternoon of a flock 
 of Mother Carey's Chickens, or Stormy Peterels, 
 (^Frocellaria Pelagica, Lin.) under the ship's stern. 
 These birds have always been considered by sailors 
 as the harbingers of storms ; and if the reports on 
 record concerning them be true, they certainly de- 
 serve the mariner's notice. Although not the bearers 
 of welcome intelligence, yet they warn him of the 
 approaching storm, it is said, sometimes even six 
 hours before it happens. Their appearing so long as 
 this before the coming on of bad weather, may be 
 regarded in some measure as a proof of their pos- 
 sessing some instinct, whereby they know the change 
 that is about to ensue j unless we admit (which I 
 think is not improbable), that their coming to ships 
 is a matter of mere chance, whilst flying from the 
 rage of the tempest that prevails, but at such a dis- 
 tance that it requires hours to reach the vessels. As 
 far, however, as my own observation goes, I cannot 
 bring to my recollection any instance where they 
 were seen before a gale commenced, or at least be- 
 fore such apparent indications of it were seen, as 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 21 
 
 rendered their appearance unnecessary to confirm 
 what might be expected to follow. The reason of 
 their keeping in the vicinity of ships in tempestuous 
 weather, is, very clearly, to get sheltered from the 
 rage of the elements ; this indeed was seen very evi- 
 dently from the manner in which they acted this af- 
 ternoon, for they always took shelter under the ship's 
 lee-quarter, which position they kept with the ut- 
 most perseverance, for they never allowed the ship to 
 go above thirty yards from them before they got up, 
 and came skimming along the surface to the same 
 place (relatively^ that they occupied before. 
 
 We saw also during the day, several flocks of an- 
 other species of Peterel, that had not been seen before 
 this voyage, called the Shearwater, (Procellaria Piif- 
 JinuSi Lin.) These birds are supposed, from their cry, 
 to be the birds of Diomede, so famous in antiquity 
 from an affecting fable. Linnseus, however, sup- 
 posed that the Albatross is the bird of Diomede, and 
 has, on that account, named it Diomeda. 
 
 Thursday, 3d. — Nothing particular occurred to- 
 day, except that, in the course of the afternoon the 
 gale moderated, and before the evening the sea 
 subsided very considerably. I remarked that the 
 stormy peterels mentioned yesterday, kept in our 
 vicinity until the violence of the gale was over. 
 
 Friday, 4>th. — This being the anniversary of our 
 venerable Sovereign's birth-day, his health was drank 
 in our little community with as much respect, and 
 cheerfulness, I may venture to say, as at any table 
 in his extensive dominions ; and in order that the 
 men as well as the officers miffht be able to celebrate 
 the day by an extra bumper, the main-brace was 
 
 c 3 
 
22 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVKllY 
 
 spliced*, and a signal was made to the Griper to do 
 the same ; and to finish the festivity of the day, they 
 enjoyed themselves in the evening with the healthy 
 and mirthful amusement of dancing, the weather 
 being at the time both mild and calm, tended very 
 materially to the comfort and conviviality of all on 
 the occasion. 
 
 We tried in the afternoon for soundings, with a 
 line of two hundred and fifty fathoms : (no bottom.) 
 At this depth we found, contrary to what has been 
 usually observed, that the temperature of the water 
 was greater than at the surface by a quarter of a de- 
 gree, the latter being 44:1:°, and the former, by the 
 self-registering thermometer, 44^", the temperature 
 of the air at the time being 43°. This leads me to 
 mention a singular, and to me rather an unaccount- 
 able difference in this respect, that occurred to the 
 two expeditions employed last year in the Arctic re- 
 gions, which is, that we found the temperature of the 
 sea at every depth, and on every occasion where it 
 was tried, to be less than that of the surface at the 
 time ; and the expedition to Spitzbergen found it 
 always the reverse; that is to say, the temperature 
 at the surface always less than at the bottom, or at 
 any considerable depth where it was tried. 
 
 Can this difference be owing to the greater thick- 
 ness of the ice at Spitzbergen, which throughout 
 the wliole summer prevents the solar rays from 
 warming but a very small portion of the surface of 
 the sea ; whilst, on the contrary, the greatest part of 
 
 • This nautical phrase signifies any extra allowance of spirits 
 that is given to seamen, in consideration of arduous duties that 
 they have occasionally to perform during bad weather, &c. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 2S 
 
 the surface of the water in Davis*s Straits, and Baf- 
 fin's Bay, is exposed to the influence of the sun for 
 the most part of the summer ? 
 
 Saturday^ 5th. — Several whales of the species call- 
 ed Finners (Bakena Phi/salus), were seen last evening 
 and this morning. These fish derive the name of finner, 
 from a fin on their back, which is often seen when no 
 other part of their body is above the surface of the water. 
 Some of them are as long as the ordinary-sized Green- 
 land or black whale, that is, from fifty to sixty feet, 
 but never so bulky as that fish. They are much more 
 active, and consequently more difficult to kill than 
 the common whale ; for that reason, and their afford- 
 ing but little oil, they are seldom molested by the 
 fishermen ; the Esquimaux, however, are said to hold 
 their flesh in higher estimation than that of the black 
 whale, but, from the danger and difficulty that they 
 would have to encounter in killing them, it may be 
 presumed that their palates are but seldom gratified 
 with a dish of this fish. We observed that flocks of 
 Peterels, both of the Shearwater and Fulmar species, 
 kept hovering over the places where these fish came 
 up to blow, no doubt with a view of picking up some- 
 thing in the way of food. Several other of the well- 
 known inhabitants of these northern regions, were 
 seen in the course of the day, for the first time this 
 voyage ; such as Terns, or Greenland swallows 
 (^Sterno Hirundo, Lin.), Porpoises (bete Phoccena^ Lin.), 
 and the species of Mollusca, called the C//o Borealis, 
 and, by the Greenland fishermen. Whale's food. Some 
 Solan geese and seals were also seen to-day, which 
 rather surprised us, for we were at noon four hundred 
 and nine miles from Cape Farewell *, a distance from 
 
 c 4 
 
^2i A VOYAGE OV DISCOVKUY 
 
 land much greater than either are usually accustomed 
 to be met with. 
 
 . Sunday^ 13th. — Nothing has occurred for this week 
 past worthy of being mentioned, unless the changes 
 in the state of the weather were recorded in the order 
 which happened, and even these were so uninterest- 
 ing that it would be too tedious a task to notice them ; 
 let it suffice, that it has been sometimes fine weather, 
 at other times the reverse, occasionally blowing fresh, 
 and at other times light breezes, but what annoyed 
 us most was, that during the greatest part, indeed I 
 may say the whole of this period, the wind has been 
 directly against us. We had slant of wind in our fa- 
 vour this forenoon, but it soon veered round again to 
 the northward and westward. The weather beingfavour- 
 able this afternoon for making observations, azimuths 
 were taken with the ship's head on different points of 
 the compass, with a view of ascertaining the deviation 
 of the needle from the magnetic meridian. From the 
 result of these observations we find, that the devia- 
 tion has, as might naturally be expected, increased 
 very considerably since we left England ; but its in- 
 crease appears to have been very regular, for north 
 and south are still found to be the points of change : 
 and the greatest deviation is found to take place 
 when the ship's head is to the westward, which is 
 very easily explained, for the local attraction of the 
 iron in the ship, and the directive power of the earth, 
 are then in some measure co-operating, or perhaps it 
 might be more proper to say, that the latter has less 
 power to counteract the infiuence of the former, 
 when the ship's head is in that direction. 
 
 * Our latitude at noon being 55" 03' N. and long. 36' 00' W. 
 by chronometer. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 25 
 
 ' Monday, 14th. — We passed a considerable quantity 
 of sea-weed to-day, some of which was picked up, 
 and found to be the common kind of sea-wrack (Fucus 
 vesiculasus) so abundant on our own coasts ; we passed 
 also in the afternoon a piece of pine-wood about six 
 feet long, which appeared to have been for a consi- 
 derable time in the water. 
 
 Tuesday, 15th. — We were favoured this forenoon 
 with a fine breeze from the southward and eastward, 
 and, in order to take advantage of it as much as 
 possible, the Griper was taken in tow. About noon 
 we saw land at a very great distance, bearing N. E. 
 by E. by compass, or about north true : Cape Fare- 
 well being the nearest land to us in this direction, 
 there could be no doubt of this being it. If we take 
 then the situation in which that Cape is laid down in 
 the Requisite Tables, which I think is one of the best 
 authorities we can refer to, and compare it with our 
 situation to-day at noon, it will appear that the land 
 seen to-day must have been one hundred and thirty- 
 three miles from us, even of difference of latitude 
 alone ; for according to these Tables (third edition) 
 Cape Farewell is in lat. 59° 38' N. and longitude 
 42° 42' W., and we were at noon by account in lat. 
 57° 25' 44'' N. * and longitude by mean of the 
 chronometer 42° 43' 42" W. As an additional 
 proof that the land seen to-day must have been very 
 distant, we crossed the meridian we were on at 
 noon to-day, on our way home last year, in latitude 
 58° 50' N., and saw no land at that time to the 
 nortliward of us. 
 
 * It may be presumed that although our latitude to-day is only 
 by account it cannot be much out, for we were by meridian alti- 
 tude (of the sun) yesterday, in latitude 57° 36' 4-3" N. 
 
26 A VOYAGE Ol- DISCOVERY 
 
 Thursday y 17th. — We found to-day that there is a 
 considerable current settling to the southward here, 
 for the latitude observed *, and that by account 
 differed, since yesterday, eight miles, which will of 
 course be the daily rate of the current. 
 
 Friday y ISth. — We made the ice, for the first 
 time, at an early hour this morning; it was in the 
 form which they called " loose streams," that is, a 
 collection of broken pieces of ice so detached from 
 one another that a ship may sail through them. In 
 the course of the day, several icebergs were seen, 
 some of them of a size sufficiently large to attract 
 the attention of those who had never seen any thing 
 of the kind before ; but as most of us had seen last 
 year those stupendous masses that were met with in 
 Baffin's Bay, and the upper part of the Straits, those 
 seen to-day were ill calculated to attract much 
 notice. I understand that the fishermen consider it 
 as a sign of a good season to meet the ice in the 
 early part of the year well to the southward, for in 
 that case they reckon that it must have broke up to 
 the northward early in the spring. I do not perceive 
 however that any inference can be drawn from our 
 having met with it in so low a 'latitude t, for the 
 season is now so far advanced, that it has had suf- 
 ficient time to drift this far without any necessity for 
 an early breaking up : for my own part, indeed, I 
 think that the " Fiords," or inlets about Cape Deso- 
 lation and its neighbourhood, are quite sufficient to 
 produce all the ice that is usually met with off Cape 
 
 ♦ The latitude by meridian altitude to day was 58" 29' 56" N. 
 and by account 58° 58' 55" N., and that observed yesterday was 
 58* 12' ^3" N. and by the dead reckoning 58° 33' 56" N. 
 
 f Our latitude to day at noon was 59° 38' 41" N. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONJ=;* ^7 
 
 Farewell, and the mouth of the Strait on the Green- 
 land side. 
 
 We no sooner fell in with the ice this morning, 
 than flocks of the little divers, called Rotges (Alca 
 Alky Lin.), were seen flying, swimming, and diving 
 about in its vicinity. It would appear, that the neigh- 
 bourhood of ice is the favourite haunt of these birds, 
 for I do not remember having seen any of them last 
 year, except when we were amongst it, or at least at 
 no great distance from it, and I believe none were 
 seen this voyage until we made the ice. In fact, they 
 might, with propriety, be called, the Ice-bird, and, if 
 1 mistake not, they have been so denominated. 
 Another species of diver was seen to-day for the first 
 time this voyage, which, like the preceding, is seldom 
 seen except in the vicinity of ice ; it is called by 
 seamen, Dovekey, (Colymbus GrylUy Lin.) 
 
 Saturday^ 19th. — It has been observed, that the 
 colour of the water has changed since we got 
 amongst the ice, for, instead of the clear blue colour 
 of the ocean, it has been within these two days of a 
 dirty brownish tinge, not unlike the colour of the 
 sea at the estuary of large rivers. The temperature 
 of the water is also very sensibly affected by the ice, 
 for since we came amongst it, we find that the mer- 
 cury seldom rises more than 4° above the freezing 
 point ; the temperature of the au* is likewise propor- 
 tionably low, the extremes of the range of the ther- 
 mometer, in the shade, for these two days, being be- 
 tween 33* and 43°. The true variation of the compass 
 was obtained to-day, by taking azimuths on a floe 
 of ice, at such a distance from the ship as to be clear 
 of all local attraction. The result of these observ- 
 ations gave 48° 40' westerly variation. It may be said 
 
28 A VOYAGf: OF DISCOVERY 
 
 that this is the only instance in which tlie true vari- 
 ation was ascertained since we left England ; for 
 magnetic observations taken on board of a ship in 
 these high latitudes, especially in this part of the 
 world, are not to be much relied upon, on account 
 of the compasses being so much affected by local 
 attraction, which is, at the same time, continually 
 changing, according as the ship changes her position ; 
 or, in other words, in proportion as she approaches, 
 or recedes from the magnetic pole, so will the effects 
 of the local attraction be increased or diminished. 
 
 About eight o'clock in the evening, the weather 
 having cleared up, we had a distant view of the land 
 about Cape Desolation *, it was estimated to be from 
 twelve to fourteen leagues from us, a distance by far 
 too great to enable us to say any thing respecting it, 
 any farther than that it appeared to be high and rug- 
 jred, and seemed as if it consisted of a number of 
 islands, being seen in detached pieces. 
 
 I understand that we sailed this forenoon over the 
 place where His Majesty's ship Sybille laid down 
 Cape Farewell t ; how far that promontory was from 
 us at that time it is impossible to say, but it may be 
 presumed to have been some distance off, for no land 
 was in sight at the time. I ought to observe, indeed, 
 that the state of the weather for the greatest part of 
 the day was not very favourable for seeing any great 
 distance. We found a current to-day setting JS. 50" 
 W. at the rate of six miles per day. 
 
 * The northern extreme of the land bore by compass E. 41° N. 
 and the southern extreme E. 24° S. the ship's head at the time 
 being N. N. W. 
 
 t We were at noon in latitude 59° 48' 26" N. (by meridian 
 altitude) and longitude 47" 47' 36" W. by tlit chronometers. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 29 
 
 Sunday y 0,0111. — We had a distant view again this 
 morning of the land seen yesterday, but although we 
 were rather nearer to it to-day than we were last 
 evening, our view of it was less distinct, or properly 
 speaking, more deceiving than before, for the shape 
 of it was altered so much l^y refraction, that a hill 
 could scarcely be distinguished from a valley. In 
 fact it appeared to be all of one uniform height, or 
 like what is commonly called " Table land ;" and at 
 one time, in addition to this uniformity in height, it 
 presented the most fantastic appearance that can 
 well be imagined, being distorted in such a manner 
 that the tops of the hills appeared broader than their 
 basis. In the afternoon, a strong breeze sprang up 
 from the southward and eastward, of which we availed 
 ourselves in making our passage across the Straits, 
 our object being to get over to the west land. We 
 passed in the course of the afternoon througli a con- 
 siderable quantity of heavy ice, being evidently frag- 
 ments of icebergs, or the outskirts of the glaciers 
 that form along the shore. The parts that were 
 above the surface of the water, presented in some of 
 them the most grotesque shapes, such as arches, 
 caves, arcades, and dilapidated columns, with im- 
 mense capitals ; which a fanciful imagination might 
 be able to find to have some resemblance to the dif- 
 ferent architectural orders. Among other things 
 with which these masses of ice were compared, one 
 of them that we passed about noon was said by some- 
 body to resemble that part of a pulpit which over- 
 hangs the clergyman when in that sacred rostrum. 
 It is probable that this simile originated from an as- 
 sociation of ideas produced by the rccoit occurrence 
 
30 A VOYAGK OF DISCOVERY 
 
 of circumstances, for we had at the time just come 
 on deck after attending divine service. 
 
 Wednesday^ 23d. — Nothing of any interest oc- 
 curred for these two days past, the weather has been 
 for most part of the time foggy, with occasional 
 showers of rain ; but we suffered but Httle inconve- 
 nience from either, because we have scarcely met 
 with a piece of ice to retard our progress since we 
 left the coast of Greenland, so that fewer hands 
 were required to be exposed to the inclemency of the 
 weather in working the ship. During these two days, 
 several seals, porpoises, and birds of different kinds, 
 whose names have been already mentioned, were seen, 
 besides two species of birds whose names have not 
 been noticed before this voyage. The one is com- 
 monly called by seamen Burgomaster (Larus Glau- 
 cus, Lin.), a name very clearly of Dutch origin, and 
 said to have been suggested to the fishermen of that 
 country, from observing that this bird exercised as 
 much power over all the other aquatic birds of this 
 country, as the magistrate of that name used to exer- 
 cise over his fellow-citizens. 
 
 The other bird alluded to is the Red Phalarope 
 (^Phalaropus Hyperboreus^ sen Tringia Fulicaria^ 
 Lin.), of which we saw several large flocks, close to 
 an iceberg, to which a boat went for the purpose of 
 making (magnetic) observations. * 
 
 In returning from this berg, we saw indeed another 
 bird that had not been seen before this voyage, and 
 which J do not remember having seen last year 
 either, although mentioned by ornithologists as one 
 of the visitants of these regions ; it has various names, 
 
 * It was found to be so steep however all round, that it was 
 impossible to get upon it. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 31 
 
 such as puffin, caulterneb, and Greenland parrot, 
 (Alca Arctica, Lin.) Of these names, however, I 
 believe the first is that by which it is most generally 
 known. Whilst close to the iceberg above men- 
 tioned, we sounded in two hundred fathoms, white 
 sand. The object for sounding was to determine 
 whether the berg was aground, and the conclusion 
 was that it was not, for its height was estimated to be 
 only about fifty feet above the surface of the water. 
 
 Thursday y 24>th, — I have omitted to mention an- 
 other species of the feathered tribe that was seen 
 yesterday, for the first time this summer ; it is called, 
 from the whiteness of its plumage, the ivory gull, 
 (Larus EburneuSy Lin.) Although this name is very 
 appropriate, inasmuch as it characterizes the colour 
 of the plumage of those specimens that are to be 
 seen in ornithological collections, yet it is far from 
 being descriptive of the whiteness of their garb 
 when alive, which certainly equals, in the purity of 
 its colour, new-fallen snow. 
 
 Friday y '2,5th, — We have made very little progress 
 to-day, having fallen in again with the ice, which 
 is so closely packed to the westward, that it is im- 
 possible to force through it ; a great number of ice- 
 bergs have also been in sight the whole day, one of 
 which appeared to be very large, both with respect 
 to its height and extent. Two Greenland, or black 
 whales (Balcena MysticetuSy Lin.) were seen this 
 morning for the first time ; and 1 understand that 
 two white bears ( Ursus MaritimuSy Lin.) were seen 
 on a piece of ice this afternoon, by the Griper's 
 people. 
 
 Saturday y ^26th. — We have been since four o'clock 
 yesterday afternoon closely beset with tlie ice in 
 
.32 A VOYAGK Ol' DISCOVEUY 
 
 every direction ; the open sea may be seen indeed 
 to the eastward, but between us and it there are se- 
 veral miles of close-packed ice, and to the northward 
 and westward, there is nothing to be seen as far as 
 the eye can penetrate, but one continued body of 
 ice. The average thickness of that around us, is from 
 four to five feet, and the extent of the pieces seldom 
 exceed forty or fifty feet ; and, generally speaking, 
 they are smaller than that. We find on many of 
 them pieces of quartz and granite, and occasionally 
 heaps of sand and gravel, which I think renders it 
 probable that this ice has been formed amongst the 
 archipelago of islands that lie to the northward and 
 westward of us. There are several icebergs situated 
 here and there amongst this pack, but they are in 
 general of a small szie. The delay occasioned by 
 the ice, for these two days, has afforded us an op- 
 portunity of making a considerable number of observ- 
 ations * ; some of which could not be done had the 
 ship been at sea ; and others were performed with 
 greater certainty on the ice than they could be done 
 on board : I allude, in the first instance, to the mag- 
 netic observations, and, in the second place, to the 
 facility with which we were enabled to take lunar 
 distances. As both these objects then are deemed of 
 considerable importance (the latter in particular being 
 so, on account of its affording us an opportunity of 
 judging of the going of the chronometers), we have 
 
 * Our latitude to-day by meridian altitude was 63° 59' 29" N. 
 and longitude by mean of several lunar distances 61° 12' 15" W. 
 and by chronometers 61° 26' 10" W. The variation was found to 
 be 61° 15' westerly, and the dip, or inclination of the magnetic 
 needle, 84. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIOJ^S. 33 
 
 very little reason to regret the delay occasioned, 
 as yet. 
 
 In the course of the afternoon a large whale came 
 up to breathe, in a small opening between two pieces 
 of ice, within a few yards of the ship, and remained 
 there for a considerable time, and would probably 
 have stopped much longer had not the curiosity of 
 some of the seamen induced them to go to the edge 
 of the hole where she lay, in order to have a better 
 view of her. My object in being so particular about 
 this whale, is, because she went down in a manner, 
 which I understand from the fishermen on board, is 
 very unusual for these fish to do j that is, tail fore- 
 most. It may be remarked, then, that this deviation 
 from the usual method of diving, evinces a consider- 
 able share of sagacity in these animals ; at least it 
 shews, that they have sense enough to depart from 
 their usual habits to accommodate themselves to cir- 
 cumstances ; for had this fish gone down in the way 
 which they are accustomed to do, it is more than 
 probable that her tail would have entangled her in 
 the ice. 
 
 Sunday y 9!Jth. — We are still closely beset by the 
 ice. We find by our observations to-day, that we have 
 diifted twelve miles to the southward since yesterday 
 at noon, for our latitude to-day by meridian altitude 
 was only 63"* 46' 5i)" N. ; and yesterday it was 
 63° 59' 29'' N. The actual distance indeed that we 
 have been carried to the southward since yesterday, 
 is more than twelve miles ; for the direction that we 
 have been drifting is S.W. by S. by compass, which 
 by taking the variation, as found yesterday, will be 
 about S. S. E. J E. true. It will be seen from this 
 circumstance, that what I suggested yesterday re- 
 
 D 
 
84 A voYAGi: or discovkky 
 
 jpecting tlie place wlicre the ice with whicli we are 
 surrounded came from, is, in some measure, confirmed 
 from our observation to-day of the direction of the 
 current by which it is carried along. 
 
 Our change of position during these four and 
 twenty hours has altered our soundings in a contrary 
 way to what might be expected ; for, although we 
 have been drifting away from the land, we find that 
 the water gets shallower, for we sounded yesterday 
 in one hundred and twenty-five fathoms, fine sand ; 
 this morning in one hundred and twenty fathoms, 
 and in the afternoon it decreased to one hundred and 
 fifteen fathoms, the same sort of bottom as before. 
 A fresii breeze spiang up this forenoon from the 
 eastward, which, before the evening, rose such a swell 
 that we were obliged to put fenders of junk over the 
 ship's side to prevent her from beuig damaged by 
 the ice, which was all in motion. 
 
 We added another Gull to-day to our list of birds ; 
 its common name is the Black-backed, or Black- 
 mantled Gull, (Larus Alar-imis, I^in.) 
 
 Monday, Q.Sth. — Shortly after ilay-light this morn^ 
 ing, a white bear was obseived on the ice close to 
 the ships. He came indeed so close to the Griper, that 
 they tired at him from the ship, and wounded him, 
 but not so bad as to disable him much at first. On 
 being pursued, however, and again struck, he either 
 voluntarily or accidentally fell into the water between 
 two pieces of ice, and in a short time disappeared. 
 He was supposed to have been attracted to the ships 
 by the smell of some herrings that were roasted in 
 the Griper the evening before. The keen scent of 
 these animals is well known to our Greenland fisher- 
 men, and 1 am told that they very frequently take 
 
'I'O THE ARCTIC REGIONS, 35 
 
 advantage of it to decoy them off from the land, by 
 burning crang, or some other oleaginous refuse, which 
 brings them so close to their ships that they very 
 often kill them without much trouble. 
 
 Tuesday y ^%th. — Although the first day or two 
 that we have been detained here, might be in some 
 measure considered as usefully spent in making ob- 
 servations \ yet such a continuation of delay as we 
 have now had in this place, tends at length to try 
 our patience, more especially as the prospect of get- 
 ting released from our present vsituation, appears to- 
 day less flattering than we have had it yet ; for the 
 motion amongst the ice, caused by the swell, yester- 
 day, and last night, has jammed it together much 
 closer than it was before, and a fall of snow thai we 
 had this morning has given it the appearance of 
 being consolidated into one immense field. About 
 seven o'clock in the evening, the weather being very 
 clear, we saw land bearing by compass, from W.N. W. 
 to W., distant, as near as we could judge, from twelve 
 to fourteen leagues. From our situation *, and the 
 direction in which this land was seen, it is probable 
 that what we saw was the islands at the entrance of 
 Frobisher's Straits, or that which Davis called Lum- 
 ley*s Inlet ; it appeared indeed to us like three 
 islands, one of which seemed to be considerably 
 larger than the other two. We sounded to-day both 
 in the fore and afternoon in one hundred and thirty- 
 five fathoms, fine sand and small black stones. 
 
 * Our latitude to-day at noon (by account) was 63° 32' N. and 
 longitude 62° 17' W. and the entrance of Frobisher's Straits, or 
 Lumley's Inlet, is said to be in latitude 63° 08' N. from which it is 
 very evident that the land seen this evening must be about the 
 entrance of these straits. 
 
 D 2 
 
3() A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 / 
 
 Just after the sun went down this evening, the 
 sky to the northward and westward presented the 
 most beautiful appearance I ever remember having 
 seen ; it is impossible for me indeed to describe it, and 
 I have no doubt but the painter would find it a diffi- 
 cult matter to represent it. I shall therefore only ob- 
 serve, that the prevailing colour was red, of all the 
 different shades, decreasing gradually from the deep- 
 est, near the horizon, until in the zenith it vanished 
 in a clear blue sky. And the clouds which were 
 illumined by these brilliant rays, presented as great 
 a diversity of shapes as there were variety of tints. 
 
 Wednesday, SOth. — The ice having been observed 
 to open a little this morning, we availed ourselves of 
 this favourable opportunity to get into clear water, 
 which, by dint of perseverance in towing and warp- 
 ing for about seven hours, we at length finally suc- 
 ceeded in getting again into the open sea. 
 
 I formed a piece of ice from the floe alongside of 
 us this morning into a cube, whose sides measured 
 four inches and eight-tenths ; and when it was put 
 into a bucket of sea-water at the temperature of 31°, 
 and of the specific gravity 1.023, only six-tenths 
 or one-eighth of it remained above the surface of the 
 Avater. 
 
 Thursday, July 1st. — We have been running to 
 the northward all day along the edge of the western 
 ice, which extends to the westward as far as we 
 could see ; and as we had a view in the afternoon of 
 a considerable portion of that coast, it is probable 
 that the ledge of ice we have been sailing along for 
 these two days reaches the land, or at least within a 
 short distance of it. To the eastward of us the sea is 
 perfectly clear, with tlie exception of some loose 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 37 
 
 streams of ice in our immediate vicinity ; but these 
 are evidently nothing more than a few fragments that 
 . separate occasionally from the main body of the ice 
 to the westward ; for we can plainly see the clear 
 water beyond them. 
 
 We have passed a considerable number of icebergs 
 in the course of the day, some of them of a very 
 large size. 
 
 Friday t Qd. — Nothing occurred to-day worthy of 
 remark, except that in the evening a large bear was 
 seen walking about on the edge of the ice, as we 
 went along ; but as we had a fine breeze in our fa- 
 vour at the time, we passed by without molesting 
 him. 
 
 Saturday J 3d. — This has been another day barren 
 in events, but very important to us in another way. 
 I allude to the progress that we have made to the 
 northward during these four and twenty hours past, 
 for we have this afternoon crossed the Arctic circle, 
 and consequently are now in the region of perpetual 
 day, for some time to come. 
 
 Although we have not had the sun, indeed, ac- 
 tually above the horizon during the whole day, or, 
 properly speaking, for four and twenty hours toge- 
 ther, yet for some days past there has been scarcely 
 any darkness, even at midnight ; for the twilight, 
 ever since we crossed the parallel of 62° north lati- 
 tude, has been so great, that we have been enabled 
 to see the direction, or, as it is called, the lead, most 
 proper to be taken to get through the ice. 
 
 Monday y 5th. — We passed a piece of ice this 
 forenoon on which was lying a large Walrus, or, as 
 it is commonly called, a Sea-horse, (Tiic/ieais^ Lin.) 
 We fired at him as the ship passed him ; but if he 
 
 D 3 
 
38 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 was wounded it must have been very slightly, for he 
 rolled himself off the ice into the water, with as 
 much, if not greater ease, than a person could ex- 
 pect from his unwieldy form and size. His back 
 appeared to be of a dark bay colour, and what we 
 saw of the under part of his body seemed to be of 
 the same colour, but of a lighter hue, and mottled 
 with white spots. His tusks, I think, were between 
 eight and nine inches long. 
 
 Tuesday, 6th. — We were more successful to-day 
 in an attack we made on one of the same kind of 
 animals before mentioned. About noon, we observed 
 five of them lying on a piece of ice about a mile 
 and a half from the ship. A boat was immediately 
 equipped for attacking them, and on our way towards 
 them it was agreed, that, instead of firing at the 
 whole indiscriminately, we should all aim at one ; 
 and for the sake of convenience, and likewise to 
 avoid having occasion to speak when we came near 
 them, it was settled that the one which happened to 
 be nearest to us should be our object. 
 
 Having every thing thus properly arranged, we 
 pulled slowly and quietly towards them unobserved, 
 until we were within forty yards of the piece of ice 
 on which they lay. The one that lay in the middle, 
 and apparently the largest, now lifted his monstrous 
 head ; and the moment he perceived us, he roused 
 the rest of his drowsy companions that were huddled 
 around him. We had by this time got within a few 
 yards of them, and, according to our preconcerted 
 plan, just as they were in the act of rolling them- 
 selves into the water, we all fired at the one which 
 was nearest to us. He was wounded so badly that 
 he came up again instantly close to the boat, and 
 
TO- THE ARCTIC REGIONS.. 
 
 39 
 
 apparently with a view of attacking it ; but the ren- 
 counter, if it may be so called, was of verysliort du-. 
 ration ; for the moment he appeared above water, 
 he was pierced to the heart with a small harpoon. 
 Notwithstanding he was thus mortally wounded, we 
 had very nigh lost him ; for in his violent struggles 
 he broke the harpoon, (part of it remaining in his 
 body,) but before he had time to sink, he was again 
 struck, and secured. His weight and dimensions, 
 &c. are noted below. * In the mean time I 
 
 * Weight, including 16lbs. for the blood lost before he was 
 
 weighed - - - - 
 
 Weight of the heart - . . - 
 
 Do. liver - - - 
 
 Do. kidneys - - -"'' 
 
 Do. spleen - - - 
 
 Length from the snout to the end of the hind ftippers 
 Circumference behind the fore flippers > 
 
 D 1' 
 
 • itoo 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 24- 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 4 
 
 Peet 
 
 In. 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 G 
 
 10 
 
Feet. 
 
 In. 
 
 4 
 
 Si 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 4- 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Oh 
 
 1 
 
 9i 
 
 40 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 ought to mention that the other four escaped, with- 
 out attempting, as is customary with these animals. 
 
 Circumference of the neck 
 
 Do. of the head (round the eyes) 
 
 Extent of the fore flippers when extended 
 
 Breadth of the fore flippers at their extremities - 
 
 Extent of the hind flippers when extended 
 
 Breadth of the hind flippers at their extremities - 
 
 Circumference of the fore flippers 
 
 Do. hind flippers 
 
 Both the fore and hind flippers had each five toes joined 
 by membranes, and each toe consisted of three bones 
 or phalanges ; near the extremity of each toe of the 
 fore flippers there was a small nail, and a small de- 
 pression in the same place on each of the hind ones. 
 
 Length of the middle toe of the fore flipper 6 inches, and 
 
 of the hind - - - - 7 
 
 Do. from the end of the fore flippers to the shoulder 
 joint . - - - - 2 
 
 Do. do. hind flippers to their inser- 
 
 tion in the body . . . 
 
 From the anus to the organs of generation 
 
 From the organs of generation to navel 
 
 Length of tusks , _ - . 
 
 Breadth between the extreme points of the tusks 
 
 Do. at their roots or insertion into the jaw 
 
 Teeth on each side of the upper jaw 5 inches, and in the 
 same place in the lower jaw 4 inches ; they were situ- 
 ated at some distance from one another, and scarcely 
 protruded beyond the gum. 
 
 Distance between the eyes - - - 9 
 
 From the eyes to the tip of the snout - - 7 
 
 Do. to the orifice of the ears - - 3 
 
 No external ears, orifice large enough to admit a goose 
 quill, nostrils of a lunated form, one inch in diameter, 
 and about | of an inch apart ; bristle in the upper lip 
 two inches long, and about the thickness of pack-thread. 
 
 Length of the bone of the penis - - - 1 I 
 
 The 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 4 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 41 
 
 to rescue their wounded companion. We followed 
 them for some time, but they appeared to be so much 
 frightened that it was impossible to get near them 
 again. Their vigilance and terror, indeed, was so 
 great, that at one time, when upwards of half a 
 mile from us, attempting to get on another piece of 
 ice, they perceived us going towards them, when 
 they immediately abandoned the ice and dived again 
 into the deep. I ooserved that one of them had lost 
 one of his tusks, a thing indeed that I am not much 
 surprised at ; for it is chiefly by means of them that 
 they manage to get upon the ice ; so that, when we 
 take into consideration the enormous weight of their 
 bodies, which must on such occasions be chiefly, if 
 not entirely, suspended by their tusks, it will appear 
 rather a matter of surprise that accidents do not 
 befal them oftener than they seem to do. It is said 
 also that they occasionally lose their tusks, and some- 
 times their lives, in their conflicts with the Polar 
 bears. But to return to those facts that came under 
 our own observations, I shall briefly state such ana- 
 tomical remarks as I have made on the construction 
 and appearance of the abdominal viscera of the Wal- 
 rus that we killed to-day. After being weighed, and 
 the dimensions of the principal parts of his body 
 taken, he was opened in a longitudinal direction, 
 from the neck to the after part of the body, by 
 which means all the internal parts were exposed to 
 view at once in their respective situations. 
 
 The hair on the body was thin, and rather coarse, and its colour 
 was the same as that described on the Walrus seen yesterday, that 
 is, a dark bay on the back, becoming gradually of a lighter colour 
 on the sides, and the under part of the body mottled, not unlike 
 the common seal. 
 
4!2 A VOYAGE Ol- DlSCOVEJiV 
 
 The thorax was, as in terrestrial qiiachiipeds, &c. 
 separated from the abdomen by a diaphragm. The 
 heart was tlie only viscus in this cavity that 1 was 
 desirous of examining ; and, unfortunately, the har- 
 poon with which the animal was killed, as I have 
 already mentioned, entered it, and lacerated the 
 greatest part of it in such a manner that very little 
 can be said respecting its peculiarities, if it had any. 
 What I was more particularly desirous of seeing was, 
 whether the Jb?Yimen ovale was open or not ; and, fi'om 
 what I saw, I feel satisfied that it was not open, for 
 a cicatrice was very plainly to be seen in the septum 
 between the auricles, with a sort of sinus leading 
 from one side of it to the left auricle ; these, I have 
 no doubt, then, were the remains of the passage in 
 question. The stomach appeared small, considering 
 the size of the animal. It lay transversely, imme- 
 diately behind the diaphragm, in a sort of sigmoid 
 flixure. The contents of it was examined very mi- 
 nutely ; but it was found to contain nothing but a 
 greenish, oleaginous matter, of a slimy consistence. 
 My object in being particular in the examination of 
 the stomach, was to ascertain whether it contained 
 any stones, because we have well authenticated ac- 
 counts of their being found in the bowels of these 
 animals. Le Sieur de Villefort, Enseigne de Vaisseau, 
 who sailed under M. de Beauchesne Gavin (a French 
 navigator that went on a voyage to the South Seas 
 many years ago), mentions their having killed a sea 
 lion* in Port Desire, in whose stomach they found 
 
 * It is perhaps necessary to mention, that the animal called the 
 Sea Lion by the old navigators, is the same that is nOw generally 
 known by the name of Walrus, or Sea Horse, in the Arctic Seas ; 
 but I understand that in the Straits of Magellan, and on the 
 islands in its neighbourhood, they arc still called Sea Lions. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ^3 
 
 several stones ; and I am informed that a number 
 of stones were found in the stomach of a Walrus 
 that was killed last summer by the expedition that 
 went to Spitzbergen. 
 
 All that I have now to say of this animal is a few 
 words respecting him as an article of food. The 
 flesh of the sea-horse has been represented by dif- 
 ferent navigators as very good eating ; but, with due 
 deference to their opinion, I must own that as far as 
 I am able to judge, nothing but absolute want could 
 ever induce a person not accustomed to such food to 
 eat it. In the first place, immediately under the 
 skin, there was a layer two inches and a half thick of 
 fat, that differed not materially in appearance, and 
 not at all in its nature from whale's blubber ; and the 
 flesh, or muscular substance underneath this oleagin- 
 ous coating, was as black as the crangt of a whale, 
 and smelt so intolerably, that even the dogs we have 
 on board would not touch it. It is but just, however, 
 to mention that we cooked the heart, which was 
 found to be tolerably good eating ; but the disgust 
 occasioned by the offensive odour from the carcase 
 of the animal was so great, that we could hardly rid 
 ourselves of the idea that the heart did not partake 
 in some degree of the disgusting qualities of the 
 body. The fat, or blubber, however, has been 
 turned to some advantage, for it was stripped ofJi 
 and put into a cask, until an opportunity occurs for 
 boiling it, when it is expected to produce from 
 thirty to forty gallons of oil. 
 
 We had tO-night, for the first time this season, a 
 
 • This is a term ,used by the Greenland, or whale-fishermen, 
 which signifies the fleshy, or muscular part of the whale, that is 
 left after the blubber is flinched or taken off. 
 
4.4< A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 meridian altitude of tlie sun at midnight, or, pro- 
 perly speaking, below the pole, for we have now of 
 course no night ; but, as the terms day, and night, 
 are convenient when speaking of the time when any 
 event occurs that is necessary to be mentioned, I 
 shall always make use of them for the sake of per- 
 spicuity, although no natural distinction of the kind 
 now takes place. 
 
 Fridai/y 9th. — Nothing has occurred for these 
 three days past deserving of particular notice. The 
 weather has been variable, sometimes fine, at other 
 times the reverse ; but our greatest annoyance has 
 been, and still is, the ice, with which we are con- 
 stantly hampered. There is one thing we find, 
 which is, that, by standing to the eastward, we get 
 clear of it ; but our object is to get to the westward, 
 if possible. 
 
 Sunday y 11th. — As we were sailing along amongst 
 the ice this forenoon, a large white bear was observed 
 on a piece of it close to the ships. A boat was imme- 
 diately lowered to go after him. The weather hap- 
 pened to be foggy, so that he did not see^us until we 
 were within about a hundred yards of him ; he was 
 walking about at the time, but immediately he per- 
 ceived us he crouched down on the edge of the ice, 
 and watched our approach very attentively, as if in 
 expectation that we should in a short time become his 
 prey. We were, on the other hand, no less sanguine 
 that he should very soon be our captive, and in 
 order to make sure of our mark, we continued to 
 pull towards him until the boat was within about 
 forty yards of him, when we all fired. One shot 
 brake his right hind leg, and the rest (viz. three) 
 struck him in difterent parts of the body. On being 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 
 
 45 
 
 wounded he made a hideous roar, and grasped with 
 his teeth at the places where he was struck. He then 
 pkniged into the water, and tried to escape in that 
 way ; but, on finding that we were gaining ground 
 upon him, he attempted to get again on the ice ; but 
 he was by this time so much exhausted by loss of 
 blood that before he could get out of the water we 
 secured him by throwing the bight of a rope round his 
 neck. His weight and dimensions are noted below.* 
 
 ♦Weight . - - 
 
 Length from the snout to the tail - - - 
 
 Circumference round the middle - - - 
 Length from the snout to the shoulder joint 
 
 Height from the heel of the fore-paw to the top of the 
 
 back between the shoulders - - . - 
 
 Do. from the heel of the hind-leg to the top of the 
 rump - - - 
 
 Circumference of the fore-paw - - - - 
 
 Breadth of do. . - . 
 
 Length from the forC'toes to the knee-joint 
 
 895 lbs. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 In. 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 3 7 
 
 4 
 11 
 
 5i 
 
4() A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 It will be seen that his weight is not at all in pro- 
 portion to his dimensions ; for he was a very large 
 animal, as far as length and height went ; but, al- 
 though six inches longer than the bear we killed 
 in this country last summer, he was upwards of two 
 hundred pounds lighter. 
 
 On opening him, we discovered the cause of this 
 disparity ; for the whole of the alimentary canal was 
 in a high state of gangrene, the liver and lungs were 
 very much inflamed, and the spleen apparently shrunk 
 considerably below its natural size, the stomach w^as 
 empty and collapsed : in fact, the whole of the ab- 
 dominal viscera bore evident marks of disease. 
 
 Feet. In. 
 
 Circumference of the fore-leg below the knee - 
 
 Do. of the hind-paw . - - 
 
 Do. of the hind-leg 
 
 Breadth of the hind-paw - _ , 
 
 Length from the hind-toes to the knee-joint 
 
 Length of the tail - . _ . 
 
 Circumference of the head before the ears 
 
 Do. of the neck - - 
 
 Distance from the snout to the eye 
 
 Do. between the eye 
 
 Longest axis of the eyes - - 
 
 Depth of the snout . . . . 
 
 Do. from nose to under part of the lower jaw - 
 
 Breadth of septum narium 
 
 Nare, elliptical 
 
 Length of the ears - - - 
 
 Breadth of do. 
 
 Front teeth in each jaw 6 inches ; canine 2 inches ; molares or 
 grinders 5 inches ; length of the upper tusks 1 /^ inch ; breadth 
 between their tips 3^ inches ; length of the lower tusks If inch; 
 (the tip of the right side tusk was broken) breadth between their 
 tips 3 inches. 
 
 The liver weighed 16 lbs. ; the lungs 14 lbs. ; the heart 6 lbs. ; 
 the kidneys 3 lbs. ; and the spleen 1 ^Ibs. 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 8i 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 3i 
 
 
 
 5h 
 
 
 
 Oi 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 2i 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 47 
 
 The weather has been colder to-day than we have 
 had yet, being half a degree less, indeed, than we 
 had it during the whole of last voyage, our lowest 
 temperature, last year, being 'r26h°i and to-day it was 
 as low as 26°. We suffer, however, no inconvenience 
 from the cold, but the moisture that freezes on the 
 rigging renders it disagreeable to handle. 
 
 Thursday^ 15th. — Nothing has occurred for 
 these three days past deserving of remark ; the wea- 
 ther has been, I may almost say, invariably foggy, 
 which, together with the quantity of ice that we 
 have been constantly hampered with, has rendered 
 our progress to the northward very slow ; tor our 
 latitude to-day, at noon, was only 70° 27' N., which 
 is only a little more than one degree farther than we 
 were four days ago. We have reason to suppose, 
 however, that the three or four last degrees of lati- 
 tude that we have come through, are the most diffi- 
 cult to navigate of any part of these seas, for they 
 are the narrowest part of the Straits, and at this 
 season of the year will, I have no doubt, be always 
 found choked with the ice that drifts down from 
 i3affin's Bay. Two boats were sent this forenoon to 
 an iceberg, to bring some of it on board for dissolv- 
 ing into water. As this ice appeared to be more 
 compact than what I have usually observed the berg- 
 ice to be, I formed a piece of it into a cube *, for the 
 purpose of determining its specific gravity, which 
 was found however not to differ materially from what 
 we have been accustomed to find it by similar experi- 
 
 * The sides of this cube measured six inches and -^-q, and when 
 put into a tub of sea-water at the temperature of 33° and of the 
 specific gravity 1.0256, nine-tenths of an inch remained above 
 the surface of the water. 
 
4<8 A VOYAGE OK DISCOVERY 
 
 merits last year ; that is, about one-seventh remain- 
 ing above the surface of the water. 
 
 Friday^ l6th. — A small piece of ice was picked 
 up to-day, however, whose specific gravity differed 
 very much indeed from any that I have ever seen 
 in these seas before. Its size would not admit well 
 of being made into a cube, it was therefore formed 
 into a rectangular parallelogram, two inches seven- 
 tenths in breadth, and one inch seven-tenths in 
 thickness ; and when put into a bason of salt water, 
 at the temperature of 85°, and of the specific 
 gravity of 1.0262, only one-tenth of an inch re- 
 mained above the surface of the water, or, in 
 other words, one-seventeenth of the whole. 
 
 We passed the Brunswick, of Hull, to-day, on her 
 way home : they brooined * to us, that they had taken 
 nineteen whales ; and, as she passed the Griper, they 
 told them that there were about fifty whalers to the 
 northward (close to the coast of Greenland), be- 
 tween the 7'^ and 7«5 degrees of latitude. This was 
 all the communication we had with her ; or, properly 
 speaking, that the Griper had, for she passed too 
 far from us to speak her. 
 
 I have omitted to mention before, that, during 
 these two or three days past, we saw several large 
 
 • This is a term used by the whale fishermen to express the 
 manner in which they communicate to one another the number 
 of whales they have taken. The way in which the intelligence is 
 conveyed is this ; on board the ship that is asking for the inform- 
 ation in question, some person holds up a broom in a conspicuous 
 place where it may be seen by the other ship, where some person 
 with a similar instrument gives the required information by lifting 
 a broom up over his head as many times as the number of fish 
 they have taken ; hence the origin and meaning of the term broom- 
 ing a shift. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 49 
 
 flocks of eider ducks (Anas Malissimaj Lin.) flying 
 to the eastward. 
 
 Saturday y IJth. — We made fast this afternoon to 
 a floe of ice, where we remained for some time, which 
 afforded us an opportunity of making some magnetic 
 and other observations. In order to make sure of 
 being clear of the influence of the ships upon the 
 compasses, the observations were made at least a 
 quarter of a mile from either of them. The variation 
 at this place was found by the mean of several azi- 
 muths, to be 81° westerly, and the dip, or vertical 
 inclination of the needle, 84° &. The latitude of 
 the place of observation (reckoning from noon) was 
 72° N., and longitude, by sights taken for the chro- 
 nometers at the time, 60° 5' W. We found, on dif- 
 ferent parts of the ice that we walked over this after- 
 noon, large quantities of earth and gravel ; this is, 
 however, such a common thing, that it hardly de- 
 serves to be mentioned, for scarcely a day ever 
 passes without our seeing either stones or earth on 
 some of the floes that we are amongst. 
 
 Monday f 19 th. — The weather for some days past 
 has been very foggy, which, I think, is in some mea- 
 sure owing to our being so far from the land ; for I 
 observed last year, when we were detained for some 
 days at Waygat Island, that there was very often a 
 thick fog over the surface of the sea at some distance 
 from the land ; whilst over the land itself, and along 
 the coast, for a space of two or three leagues from 
 it, there was commonly a fine clear sky. Paradox- 
 ical as it may appear, yet we find, that although the 
 weather is in general so cold that the fog freezes on 
 the rigging, that the ice is undergoing dissolution 
 very rapidly, for on most of the floes we find large 
 
50 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 pools of water, from one of which we supplied the 
 ships (with water) two days ago. 
 
 Although it must certainly be admitted (from the 
 circumstance that I have just mentioned), that the 
 sun contributes very materially to the destruction of 
 the ice, yet I concur in opinion with the intrepid 
 navigator, Davis, and the illustrious Cook, that the 
 sea is the great destroyer of the ice in these regions. 
 
 We find that there is a constant current setting to 
 the southward, which has been observed, indeed, 
 more or less, ever since we entered the Straits. Its 
 daily rate, and the exact course it takes, is not, in- 
 deed, very easily ascertained with great precision ; 
 for the various courses we are obliged to make 
 amongst the ice, are such as to baffle all attempts at 
 comparing the latitude observed with that deduced 
 from the dead reckoning ; and I have no doubt but 
 the ice affects, in some measure, the direction of the 
 current near the surface. 
 
 Tuesday y 9,0th. — On account of the fogginess of 
 the weather, we got so close to a large iceberg, to- 
 day, before it was seen, that we were obliged to 
 lower our boats in great haste to tow the ship off 
 from it ; and, notwithstanding the smartness with 
 which every thing was done, she went over a tongue 
 of it that projected some distance from the body of 
 the berg. This tongue happened, fortunately, how- 
 ever, to be about twenty feet below the surface of 
 the water, so that we went over it without touching, 
 and, in a few minutes more, got clear, altogether, 
 of this threatening mass of ice, for such I must cer- 
 tainly call it, for the side of it that we ran along 
 was considerably higher than our mast-head, and 
 some parts of it projected beyond : a perpendicular 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 51 
 
 line rose from its base, or at right angles with the 
 surface of the water. And in addition to these cir- 
 cumstances, it was full of vertical fissures, or rents, 
 which showed, in a very unequivocal manner, the 
 danger of approaching too near it. The depth of 
 water alongside of it was found to be one hundred 
 and twenty fathoms ; and, as it appeared from the 
 tide-mark on it, to be aground, its height above the 
 surface of the water might be estimated at one hun- 
 dred and twenty feet ; for the proportion of the ice, 
 above, to that below the surface of the water, will 
 generally be found to be nearly as one is to seven. 
 We shot a seal this evening, of the common species. 
 (JPhoca Vitulinai Lin.) He was lying on a piece of 
 ice at the time. It is unnecessary to give any de- 
 scription of him, as he differed in no respect from 
 the seals that* are seen on our own coast : his length, 
 from the snout to the tail, was five feet one inch, and 
 the circumference round the thickest part of the 
 body three feet six inches. 
 
 Wednesday i 9.1st. — The weather cleared up to-day 
 for the first time for some days past; and about 
 eight o'clock A. M. we had a very good, although 
 a distant view, of the coast of Greenland, bearing 
 by compass from south to east of us. The moun- 
 tain called by Davis, " Hope Sanderson," was rea- 
 dily recognised by such of us as had seen it last year ; 
 although its distance from us was estimated to be 
 about forty miles, it bore, by compass, 8° S. 30' E. 
 Some of the Women Islands were also in sight. It 
 appeared to me that there was more snow on this 
 part of the coast, than was on it last year when we 
 passed it ; but our distance from it was too great to 
 
 E 2 
 
52 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 enable us to say any thing with certainty on this 
 head. 
 
 We found an immense number of icebergs off this 
 coast ; no less than eighty-eight were seen this morning 
 at one time from deck, and most of them so large that I 
 have no doubt of their being a ground, for we sounded 
 atthe time in one hundred and six fathoms — sand and 
 pieces of broken shells. Between us and the land 
 there was also a considerable quantity of loose ice, 
 sufficiently open, however, to navigate amongst it, 
 to the northward ; but as I have said some time ago, 
 our object is not to get to the northward along this 
 coast, but if possible to penetrate to the westward. 
 What time it will take to accomplish this desirable 
 object in this high latitude, is a question that must 
 certainly remain in doubt until the thing is done, for 
 last vear's experience does not afford us any ground 
 to draw a conclusion from on this subject ; we found 
 then (as we do now) a barrier of ice to the west- 
 ward, from the time that we first made it until we 
 got nearly to the top of Baffin's Bay j and although 
 we never succeeded in getting through it, it was 
 certainly not from want of attempting to do so. 
 Whether these attempts might not have been success- 
 ful if persevered in, is a thing that does not become 
 me to give an opinion on. 
 
 We are possessed however of some knowledge this 
 year, that we knew nothing of last summer, with 
 regard to the extent of this ledge or barrier of ice ; 
 for then it was doubtful how far it might extend to 
 the westward, but now we know perfectly well how 
 far it can extend in that direction. But, to be brief 
 on the subject, I believe the intention is, to make 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 53 
 
 every effort to force our way to the westward from 
 this place, so as to make the entrance of our hopeful 
 inlet, Lancaster's Sound ; we are not indeed quite in 
 the parallel of latitude * of it yet, but as the land 
 tends a little to the eastward on the south side of that 
 opening, a passage across at this place will be shorter 
 than farther to the eastward. 
 
 This day, in addition to its being fine and clear, 
 was, I think, the warmest day that we have had 
 since we left England, for at two o'clock in the af- 
 ternoon the thermometer in the sun rose to 82. 
 
 In the evening, as we were making the best of 
 our way to the westward, a large bear was observed 
 on a piece of ice close to us, but time was deemed 
 too precious to lose any of it to go after him. 
 
 Saturday y ^4>th. — Nothing has occurred during 
 these two days past deserving of remark ; we got 
 beset amongst the ice on the evening of the 22d, and 
 have been so situated ever since ; we have at diffe- 
 rent times during that period endeavoured to force 
 the ships through by warping, but we have made but 
 very little progress, the ice being so close and heavy, 
 that our utmost efforts avail but little ; there are pros- 
 pects, however, of clear water to the westward, for 
 the sky in that direction has a watery appearance, 
 and the ice is dissolving very fast, its surface being 
 full of pools of water, in one of which was caught, 
 two days ago, a small fish answering to the descrip- 
 tion of the Gadus Virens of Lin. 
 
 As there was nothing particularly doing, a series 
 of experiments were again performed this afternoon, 
 
 • The entrance of Lancaster's Sound may be said to be in 
 latitude 74° N., and ours to-day at noon was 72^ 58' 12" N. 
 
 E 3 
 
54- A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 for determining the deviation of the compass ; the 
 mode of operation was similar to that described some 
 time ago, when an experiment of the same kind was 
 made : that is, a set of azimuths were taken with 
 the ship's head on every second point of the com- 
 pass, and the difference of these azimuths from the 
 true variation found on the ice, will, of course, be the 
 deviation on these respective points. In this experi- 
 ment a newly invented needle by Mr. Jennings was 
 used, and as far as we could judge from this trial it 
 appeared to answer remarkably well. It differs in its 
 construction from the common needle, for instead 
 of one bar, or needle, it consists of two placed at 
 right angles to one another, so that the magnetic 
 north and south falls in a line between the two oppo- 
 site arms of it. As the result of this experiment may 
 be more easily comprehended by a diagram than by 
 words, I have drawn one *, which exhibits at one 
 view the whole operation, or rather, as I have just 
 said, the results thereof. 
 
 It will be seen from this experiment that the de- 
 viation has increased very considerably since it was 
 tried before ; this is, however, nothing more than 
 what might be expected, or, in fact, it is only what 
 we knew, from other circumstances, must happen ; 
 for it is very clear, that as the directive power of the 
 magnetism of the earth upon the compass decreases 
 as we approach the magnetic pole ; so will the power 
 or rather the effect of the iron in the ship increase. 
 
 Sunday, 9,5th, — The ice having slackened a 
 little during the night, all hands were employed the 
 whole day tracking and warping the ships to the 
 
 * Sec Appendix. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 55 
 
 westward ; and in the evening, in consideration of 
 the great exertions made, and the length of time 
 they were employed, each man had half a pound of 
 Donkin's preserved meat, and a gill of rum served 
 out to them, as an extra allowance. 
 
 Monday, 'iQth. — We were employed again to-day 
 in a similar way as above mentioned, but with less 
 success, for the ice closed so much to-day that our 
 utmost endeavours to force through it were of little 
 avail. 
 
 Tuesday, ^"Jth, — Although yesterday's exertions 
 were not of much use, we were not discouraged on 
 that account from recommencing the same labour 
 again to-day, and I have much pleasure in being 
 able to say, that the unwearied efforts displayed not 
 only to-day, but for some days past, were this after- 
 noon crowned (as good causes generally are, when 
 persevered in with zeal and proper management) 
 with success, for we got into what may be called clear 
 water, that is to say navigable, although not alto- 
 gether free from ice. From similar motives to 
 those mentioned on the ii^5th inst. the men had again 
 this evening an extra allowance of fresh meat served 
 out to them. 
 
 Wednesday, Q8th. — I have remarked that since we 
 lost sight of the coast of Greenland very few icebergs 
 have been seen ; to-day especially there has not been 
 above five or six seen altogether, and these were of 
 an inferior size. This is no doubt owing to the water 
 increasing in depth as we proceed to the westward, 
 so that they cannot ground. We sounded to-day in 
 two hundred and ninety-six fathoms, a depth evident- 
 ly too great for icebergs to ground in, unless they 
 were of an extraordinary magnitude. The floe ice 
 
 E 4- 
 
56 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 is also much thinner than it was a few days ago ; some 
 of it indeed that we passed to-day was so honey- 
 combed, or as it is commonly called, so rotten, that 
 some parts of it would not bear a man's weight. I 
 think that this rapid dissolution may in some measure 
 be attributed to the greater depth of the water here 
 than to the eastward ; for it is well known that shoal 
 water freezes more readily than deep water, conse- 
 quently when ice happens to drift into deep water, it 
 will be destroyed quicker than in shoal water. 
 
 Thursday i Q9th. — We got yesterday evening into 
 a clear sea, and there is to-day every appearance of 
 its continuing so ; the sky looks watery to the west- 
 ward, and we have had all the forenoon a considerable 
 swell from that direction, so that we may, I think, 
 with safety presume, that the sea is open at least as 
 far as Lancaster's Sound, and as we know that 
 there is a greater depth of water in that inlet than 
 where we are now, it is not likely that we shall find 
 much obstruction from ice there. 
 
 "We were at noon only one hundred and sixty 
 miles from the entrance of it, having, in the course 
 of the last twenty-four hours, ran upwards of one 
 hundred miles ; a distance, certainly, that in tem- 
 perate climates would be performed by a ship under 
 the most ordinary circumstances ; but in these re- 
 gions, and after such tardy movements as we have 
 for some time past been accustomed to, appears to 
 us a great run, and, taking every thing into consi- 
 deration, is so in reality. 
 
 We saw several whales torday for the first time 
 since we entered Baffin's Bay, or at least since we 
 passed the latitude of 70'' N., for I beUeve the line of 
 division between it and Davis's Straits is not yet well 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 57 
 
 defined ; it may, therefore, in speaking of it, be better 
 perhaps to refer to some parallel of latitude. 
 
 Friday f SOtk. — The sea still continues open, and 
 there is every prospect of its being so to the west- 
 ward, for the sky in that direction promises well, 
 and we have, as I mentioned yesterday, a consi- 
 derable swell. The weather being fine and clear 
 this forenoon, we had very excellent sights for the 
 chronometers, from which, and our latitude at noon, 
 we found that we were no great distance from the 
 entrance of Lancaster's Sound ; it was indeed com- 
 puted at the time, that if the breeze continued as we 
 then had it, that the west land would be seen in the 
 course of the afternoon, and to our great joy these 
 expectations were fulfilled about five o'clock, for at 
 that time land was descried from the mast-head, 
 which we knew from our latitude to be the mountains 
 on the south side of the inlet just mentioned. The 
 welcome news was immediately telegraphed to the 
 Griper, then both ships set all sail they could pos- 
 sibly carry, having, as it were, received fresh vigour 
 from the prospect now before them. 
 
 As we drew in with the land every eye appeared 
 to be directed towards that spacious inlet so often 
 the theme of conversation for these eleven months 
 past. 
 
 So much indeed has been said about it, that were 
 we quite ignorant of the place, we must have felt 
 some pleasure in seeing it ; but to us it is peculiarly 
 interesting, for most of us have seen it before, or, 
 more properly speaking, we were witnesses of the 
 promising appearances it afforded of being the place, 
 that not only we, but many other navigators, for up- 
 wards of two centuries, were in search of. 
 
58 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 At the same time that we are thus delighted with 
 having the object of our hopes in sight, a sort of 
 secret anxiety hovers occasionally over the mind, on 
 recollecting that it has been affirmed, from ocular de- 
 monstration^ that the magnificent opening now before 
 us is only a hay. It would be needless, if not improper, 
 however, to enter into a lengthened detail of the rea- 
 sons that might be adduced against that opinion, for 
 such only can 1 call it ; let it suffice then, that there 
 is at present every prospect of our being soon able to 
 decide the subject in question, in a manner that will 
 henceforth leave no doubt about the matter ; for the 
 sea is quite clear to the westward as far as we can 
 see, and we have a fine breeze of wind ; it is not 
 indeed directly in our favour, being from the N. W., 
 but it is sufficiently so, if it continues, to enable us 
 to get to the entrance of the Sound, as it is gratuit- 
 ously called, before to-morrow morning. 
 
 It is astonishing the number of whales that have 
 been seen to-day ; no less than fifty are said to have 
 been seen in the course of one watch, (viz. four hours,) 
 this afternoon. May this circumstance not be con- 
 sidered as an indication of the opening before us 
 being a passage from Baffin's , Bay to another sea, 
 into which these fish are now going, in consequence 
 of their being pursued and harassed by the fishermen 
 in these seas ? 
 
 The mountains aj)pear to have more snow on them 
 than they had last year when we were here ; this 
 may, however, in a great measure, be accounted for, 
 from our seeing them a month earlier this year, for 
 it was on the 30th of August that we were at this 
 place last voyage. Along the coast, however, and 
 for about three hundred feet up the side of the 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 59 
 
 mountains, the land is, with very few exceptions, per- 
 fectly clear of snow. We estimate the height of the 
 mountains to be from sixteen hundred, to two thou- 
 sand feet above the level of the sea. 
 
 Saturday^ S\st, — We got this morning off the 
 place that was called, last year. Possession Bay, from 
 our having landed there and taken possession of the 
 country. As we had it in a different point of view 
 from that in which it was seen last year, it was not 
 recognised until the pole erected on the top of one 
 of the hills was seen. As soon as we got abreast of 
 it the ships were hove to, and a boat went ashore 
 with Mr. Parry and Capt. Sabine to make magnetic 
 and other observations *, and during the time tliey 
 were employed in making these observations, two 
 men and myself were directed to proceed up the 
 stream which flows through the valley, with instruc- 
 tions to observe if any pieces of wood or bark were 
 to be seen in the bed of it, and to make such re- 
 marks on the nature and productions of the place as 
 might be deemed useful. We commenced our ex- 
 cursion from the mouth of the stream, at which 
 place it is, as near as I could judge, from thirty-five 
 to forty yards broad ; and at low water, as was the 
 case when we landed, not above knee deep : there 
 is at this place however a bar across it, within which 
 it both deepens and widens. The depth of it, for 
 about one hundred and fifty or two hundred yards 
 within the bar I w^as not able to determine, being 
 
 * The latitude at the mouth of the stream was found to be 
 73° 31' 16" N., and longitude 77° 44' 42" W. (by chronometer) ; 
 the variation of the compass by the mean of several azimuths 
 108° 50' westerly, and the tlip, or vertical inclination of the 
 dipping-needle, 86° 9'. 
 
60 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 too considerable to wade across it : its breadth at 
 that phice was, I think, from forty- five to fifty feet. 
 The tide went up it to the distance of two hundred 
 and fifly or three hundred yards, as was evident by 
 tlie tide-mark left on its banks, and the bones of 
 whales that were lying on the left side of it at the 
 above distance from its mouth. The bed of the 
 stream above the bar as far as the tide went consisted 
 of soft vicid mud ; beyond this it became rough and 
 hard, consisting of loose stones and sand, which was 
 indeed the nature of the bottom all the rest of the 
 way as far as we went : it continued likewise nearly 
 of an uniform breadth, that is, from forty to fifty 
 yards, and every part of it beyond where the tide 
 flowed, was fordable. 
 
 The first thing that attracted our notice in going 
 along the bank of the stream, was to meet human 
 tracks in so perfect a state, that, had the place been 
 known to be frequented by man, we should have 
 supposed that people had been here only a few days 
 before ; but one of the men who was with me, as 
 well as myself, remembered that we had been on the 
 very same spot, where the tracks were observed, last 
 year gathering plants, so that we had not the small- 
 est doubt of their being the remains of our own foot- 
 steps made last year, for had any Esquimaux been at 
 this place since we were here before, it is more than 
 probable that they would have taken away the pole 
 on the hill ; for, from what we saw of them last year, 
 nothing could be a greater prize for them than a 
 piece of wood of the size of that in question. Be- 
 sides, we observed that the impression of the heel of 
 the shoe was deeper than that of any other part of 
 it, which would not be the case were they the tracks 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 6l 
 
 of Esquimaux, for they never have hieels to their 
 shoes or boots ; and, in fact, the size and shape of 
 the footmarks were such as to satisfy us perfectly as 
 to their origin. From this circumstance we may 
 conclude that there is no great fall of snow in this 
 country in the winter, for doubtless the melting of 
 it would have effaced these tracks. After tracing 
 them for some distance we resumed our course up the 
 stream until we came to the foot of a mountain, 
 which from the sea appeared to terminate the valley 
 through which it flowed : but instead of finding the 
 source of our stream here, as we imagined, we found 
 that it issued from another valley to the right, or 
 southward and westward. Our time being limited, 
 we could not follow it any farther ; at this time we 
 were, as near as I could judge, about three miles and 
 a half, or four miles, at the farthest, from the sea. At 
 this distance from the coast there were only two or 
 three small patches of snow in the whole valley, and 
 there was very little of it indeed for a considerable 
 way beyond this up the sides of the mountains. 
 The only animals we saw during our excursion were 
 a Fox, (Canis VulpeSy Lin.) ; a Raven, (Corvus 
 CorcuTy Lin.) ; several Ring-Plovers, (Charadrius 
 Hiaticula, Lin.) ; and Snow-Buntings, {Emberiza 
 Nivalis^ Lin.) ; a bee was also seen, from which we 
 may infer that there is honey even in these wild 
 regions. We saw several tracks of bears, and some 
 cloven-footed animal, from their size apparently those 
 of a reindeer, neither of them however appeared to 
 be very recent. Considering the high latitude in 
 which this place is situated, vegetation flourishes re- 
 markably well, for wherever there was moisture tufts 
 
(')0 A VOYAGK OF DISCOVERV 
 
 of grass and various plants grew in considerable 
 abundance ; creeping, or ground willow, was the 
 only ligneous production we met with, the diameter 
 of the thickest of them that I saw did not exceed 
 that of a person's finger, and, generally speaking, they 
 were not so large. 
 
 The fixed rocks consisted chiefly of basalt and gra- 
 nite, and in the valley there was a vast quantity of 
 limestone, in loose fragments ; but I do not recollect 
 having seen any rocks of it : granite, quartz, sand- 
 stone, trap, felspar, and various other minerals, were 
 to be met with in considerable abundance in the bed, 
 and about the banks of the stream before-mentioned. 
 On our way back to the boat 1 picked up a piece of 
 whalebone, two feet ten inches in length, and two 
 inches broad : it had forty two holes in it, placed 
 nearly in a straight line, and at regular distances 
 from one another along one of its edges : these holes 
 were perfectly round, and of a size sufficient to ad- 
 mit a goose-quill. Besides the holes just mentioned, 
 there were also fine oval holes along the middle of it, 
 at the distance of eight inches apart. We supposed 
 it had been part of an Esquimaux sledge ; and from 
 the situation in which it was found, it is probable 
 that it had been carried there by some of these people ; 
 for it was between three and four hundred yards from 
 the sea, and about the same distance from the stream 
 we went up ; so that it could not be brought by either 
 to the place where it was found. 
 
 On returning from our excursion, we found that 
 the tide had risen so much that we could not wade 
 across the bar at the mouth of the stream. The tide 
 appeared to flow from the northward, or most pro- 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 63 
 
 bably out of Lancaster's Sound ; for this place is si- 
 tuated to the southward and eastward of it. It was 
 just low water at the time we landed, and during the 
 three hours we were ashore, it rose between three 
 and four feet ; but from the distance up the beach 
 that the bones of whales, sea- weed, and other things 
 that must have been washed up by the sea, was found, 
 it would appear that the tide rises considerably 
 higher than what might be expected from the result 
 of our observation on it to-day. I ouglit to observe, 
 however, that in all probability, a very heavy sea sets 
 into this bay occasionally, for when we landed, al- 
 though the wind was very moderate, there was a very 
 considerable surf breaking on the beach ; so that 
 when it blows hard from the eastward, it may be pre- 
 sumed that the sea runs so high as to have washed 
 the bones above-mentioned up to the place where 
 they were lying ; that is, some distance beyond the 
 regular tide-mark. The water deepens very suddenly 
 in this bay, for we sounded as we were coming 
 ashore, and found fourteen fathoms' water within a 
 cable's length of the beach; and even closer than 
 that its depth must be considerable ; for just as we 
 were landing, two whales were observed so near the 
 shore, that I expected at one time that they would 
 run themselves aground. Whilst we were ashore 
 they tried for soundings on board, with a line of two 
 hundred and ninety fathoms, and found no bottom ; 
 but on recollection, I ought not to mention this as a 
 remarkable circumstance, for they sounded in a 
 thousand fathoms last year, in the Isabella, in the 
 very same place, or at least pretty near it. As the staff 
 planted at that time on the hill, already mentioned, is 
 
64< A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 still standing, it would be unnecessary to erect ano- 
 ther this year ; but, in order to leave some memorial 
 of this our second visit, a sort of obelisk, or rather a 
 pile of loose stones, was erected on the right bank of 
 the stream, and about two hundred yards from the 
 beach ; and under the pile was buried a quart bottle, 
 containing a sHp of paper, on which were written the 
 names of ships, and commanders, and the time when 
 we w ere here. Having now given an account of every 
 thing that I saw during this excursion, that appeared 
 to me to be deserving of notice, I shall again resume 
 the narrative of our transactions on board. Immedi- 
 ately the boats returned (one being on shore from 
 the Griper), we made sail towards Lancaster's Sound ; 
 but the wind being at the time rather against us 
 (N. E. by compass) we made but little progress 
 during the remainder of this day. 
 
 Sunday^ August \st. — The wind still continuing 
 to blow out of the Sound, we have as yet got but a very 
 little way into it ; every thing else, however, appears 
 favourable, the sea is perfectly clear to the westward, 
 as far as we can see, and a heavy swell is setting from 
 that direction, from which we may conclude that 
 there is neither land nor ice very close to us on that 
 side. We passed several streams of ice to-day, indeed 
 on the north side of the Sound, but they lay so close 
 in with the land, that they offered no obstruction to 
 our progress ; and, with regard to icebergs, it may 
 be almost said, that they have totally disappeared, 
 for there has been only one seen to-day. It has been 
 observed that since we got within the capes that 
 form the entrance of this magnificent Sound, that 
 the colour of the water changed from its usual light 
 green colour, to a dirty brownish hue. 
 
 18 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 6$ 
 
 Monday, 2rf. — There being but very little wind 
 this forenoon, we availed ourselves of the oppor- 
 tunity thereby occasioned for sounding, which occu- 
 pied a considerable portion of time, for we had no 
 less than one thousand and forty-eight fathoms of 
 line out before we found bottom ; it was estimated, 
 however, that the actual depth was not above eight 
 hundred and fifty, or nine hundred fathoms, as there 
 was a very considerable portion of stray line. The 
 deep-sea-clamm was used on this occasion, the sound- 
 ings brought up, consisted chiefly of mud, intermixed 
 with small stones^ and pieces of broken shells of a 
 very delicate texture. At eight o'clock in the even- 
 ing a breeze sprang up from the southward and east- 
 ward, accompanied by fine clear weather, which ena- 
 bled us to have an excellent view of the land on 
 both sides this spacious opening, and although we had 
 not as yet got so far into the Sound as we were last 
 year, frequent visits were nevertheless made to the 
 Crow's Nest*, to look for Croker's Mountain, for 
 such was our anxiety, that we began to look for what 
 we had good reasons to suppose did not exist, and 
 that too before we got far enough to see them if they 
 
 * This is the name given by the Greenland fishermen to a 
 look-out place they have at the mast-head. It is frequently made 
 of a cask, by taking one end out, and cutting a scuttle in the 
 other for a person to get through ; the use of it is to shelter the 
 person looking out for whales, or the best lead amongst the ice, 
 from the inclemency of the weather. We have two crows' nests 
 up, one at the main, and the other at the fore-mast head, and 
 whenever we are amongst the ice, one or other of them is always 
 occupied by some person looking out for the best way to get 
 through, and to-day they have, as I have mentioned above, been 
 frequently visited by persons looking out for what I hope we shall 
 never see. 
 
66 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 did exist. There is every appearance, at present, 
 however, of our being able before long of satisfying 
 ourselves on this point ; I shall therefore forbear to 
 say any thing more on the subject until that period 
 comes. We saw an immense number of whales to- 
 day again, between thirty and forty being seen in 
 every watch ; it has been remarked, that a great many 
 of them were of a small size. I observed that they 
 went in shoals in the same way that porpoises usually 
 do, generally coming to the surface nearly about the 
 same time, and diving in the same manner. We 
 passed in the course of the day a great number of 
 what is commonly called sea-blubber, (^Medusa), on 
 which I think it is very probable the whales feed ; 
 for it is a sort of food well adapted to the formation 
 of their mouth, requiring little or no mastication, an 
 operation which the whale is by no means calculated 
 to perform. 
 
 As we came along to-day, we observed that the 
 stream, or ledge of ice mentioned yesterday, still 
 stretches to the westward, but so close in with the north 
 land as to be no impediment in our way. Amongst 
 it were seen this evening, three icebergs, but of so 
 small a size that we would have hardly noticed them, 
 had it not that so few have been seen of late. 
 
 Tuesday i 3d. — We made considerable progress 
 to the westward to-day, for we were at noon (by 
 chronometer) in longitude 80° 30' W., and since that 
 time we have had an excellent run, for at eight 
 o'clock in the evening, we were by account in 82° W., 
 and if the breeze continues but a few hours as it is 
 now, wc shall decide whether land exists where it is 
 said to have been seen last year; at present the weather 
 is perfectly clear, and there is nothing to be seen to the 
 westward but a clear sea ! 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ^ 67 
 
 The south land, after passing Cape Castlereagh, 
 trends to southward and westward, forming a large 
 bay, the bottom of which was so distant from us, 
 that it is presuming too much indeed to call it a bay, 
 as it might, for aught we know, be a passage to the 
 southward. The land to the westward of this bay, 
 or opening, appeared to be lower than that on the op- 
 posite side of it, and the formation, or contour of it, 
 differed also from that of the land to the eastward ; 
 for it appeared somewhat like that which is called 
 Table Land, whilst the land that we have passed is 
 full of acuminated hills, rising one above another 
 from the sea-side, to the top of the mountains. On. 
 the north side, and a little to the westward of the bay 
 or opening that I have just been describing, there is a 
 similar gulf, or passage, and of greater extent than 
 the above ; our distance from the northernmost part 
 of it was likewise too considerable to enable us to 
 speak with certainty of the continuity of the land ; 
 it appeared to us indeed as if it consisted of a number 
 of islands. The land to the westward of this opening 
 differed also in its features from that on the nortli 
 side of the entrance of Lancaster's Sound, for its out- 
 line appeared to be more regular, and less elevated 
 than the latter, and it has much less snow on it. As 
 we were sailing along this forenoon, we happened to 
 pass close by an iceberg, to which a boat was sent to 
 take some azimuths, and, to our surprise, the result 
 of them gave less variation, nearly by two degrees, 
 than we found in Possession Bay, notwithstanding we 
 have every reason to think that we are approaching 
 the Magnetic Pole ; but these observations were taken 
 rather too near noon, so that they are not so much 
 to be depended on as those taken the other day. 
 
(is A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 Whilst the boat was at the berg, they were employed 
 on board sounding ; they struck bottom in tliree 
 hundred and seventy-three fathoms, soft mud, and at 
 the same time a tide, or current, was found setting 
 N. 65° E, true, at the rate of seven fathoms per liour. 
 Wednesday^ 4<t/i. — The momentous question so 
 often alluded to in the course of this narrative, (and 
 indeed a subject of conversation for nearly a twelve- 
 month past,) has this day been decided in the manner 
 in which I always thought it would be, that is, that no 
 land exists on the west side of Lancaster's Sound, where 
 it was said to have been seen last year ; for we were 
 to-day at noon in longitude 86° 56' W., which is nearly 
 three degrees to the westward of where it was laid 
 down. It would perhaps be unbecoming to take a re- 
 trospective view of the opinions and arguments ad- 
 vanced by those who maintained that Lancaster's 
 Sound was of all others the place that appeared most 
 likely to be the opening or inlet through which the pas- 
 sage so long sought after would ultimately be found j 
 because a review of that kind might be considered as a 
 triumph over those who have the misfortune of being 
 this day proved to be wrong. Although people may 
 refrain, however, from making an ostentatious parade 
 about their own merit or judgment, yet tliey cannot 
 avoid feeling a secret satisfaction that their opinions 
 have turned out to be true ; nor is it indeed necessary 
 to stifle these inward pleasures. But, to abandon the 
 subject, I shall resume my diary by relating the rest 
 of the events of the day, leaving to others the task 
 of contrasting and judging of the respective merits 
 of" the deeds and opinions of the parties or indivi- 
 duals concerned, for^uj) wards of two centuries, in pio- 
 jecting or j)erforming voyages to this country, similar 
 to that on which we are employed. 
 
 17 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 09 
 
 We tried for soundino-s several times durino- the 
 day with different lengths of line, from fifty to one 
 hundred and seventy fathoms, but never struck bot- 
 tom ; and, as we had a fine breeze in our favour, it 
 was not deemed proper to lose time in sounding to any 
 greater depth ; and probably had the Griper been 
 able to keep up with us, we should not have sounded 
 so often, or to such depth as we did. 
 
 We lost sight of the south land since eight o'clock 
 this morning, (the weather being perfectly clear,) 
 and we have been at an average about twenty miles 
 from the north land during the whole day, (but some- 
 times much nearer,) so that these straits, if they 
 may be so called, are certainly of the first magni- 
 tude, both with regard to their breadth, and depth. 
 
 The land on the north side that we passed to-day 
 is of a different description from any that I have 
 seen in this country before ; the whole of the coast 
 appeared somewhat like an immense wall (in ruins) 
 rising almost perpendicular from the sea, to the 
 height, as near as I could judge, of about five hun- 
 dred feet. The surface of this precipice consisted of 
 horizontal strata of different thicknesses, and the 
 debris that fell from them formed a kind of buttresses 
 at the foot of the rock. On some of the strata also 
 that projected out farther than the rest along the face 
 of the precipice, there were collections of the moul- 
 dering remains of the superincumbent rocks ; so that 
 from the variety of shapes and sizes that these heaps 
 of rubbish assumed, the regularity of the strata, and 
 the uniformity that prevailed in the height of the 
 rock, this bold coast presented altogether a very 
 interesting appearance. Notwithstanding its general 
 character was such as I have just been describing, 
 
 F 3 
 
70 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 yet in some parts of it there appeared to be inlets or 
 chasms in which were apparently very secure har- 
 bours ; but our distance from it was too great to 
 enable us to speak with any degree of certainty on 
 this point. 
 
 The surface of the country inland, as far as we 
 could see, had very little snow on it, which I thought 
 might possibly be owing to its being so plain that no 
 part of it afforded shelter for the drift-snow to lodge 
 in ; its height was also very inconsiderable, for it ap- 
 peared to rise but very little beyond the cliffs along 
 the coast. We found the sea quite clear of ice as 
 we came along during the day, with the exception 
 of a few small bergs ; but, in the evening, we came 
 to what appears to be an island, with a ledge of ice 
 extending from the north and south ends of it as far 
 as we can see. That which runs from the north end 
 appears to reach as far as the land ; but as it happened 
 to become hazy just as we made the ice, it is possible 
 that we might have been deceived as to its extent. 
 At all events, as long as we are not interrupted by 
 land, a little stoppage by ice is a matter of very 
 little consequence j for I have no doubt but we shall 
 manage to get througli it. Between the island just 
 mentioned and the north land, or that along which 
 we have been sailing all day, there appears to' be a 
 large open bay, or, it might perhaps be more pro- 
 perly said, that the land opposite this island trends 
 to the northward and westward, instead of due west 
 as before. As we approached the ice this afternoon 
 we saw from twenty to thirty wliales. 
 
 Thursday, 5th, — The weather had been foggy 
 since yesterday evening until five o'clock this after- 
 noon, so that we had been during that time little 
 better than stationary, standing alternately off and 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 71 
 
 on along the edge of the ice, in readiness to take 
 advantage of the first opening that would be discover- 
 ed when the weather cleared up ; but to our disap- 
 pointment, when this happened (between five and six 
 o'clock in the evening), we found that the ice extended 
 from the island mentioned last night to the north 
 land, a distance of about thirty miles. This body of 
 ice appeared so compact that it would be folly to 
 attempt to force through it, more especially as it 
 extended to the westward farther than we could see ; 
 we had the satisfaction, however, of not seeing any 
 land beyond it in that direction. We had no other 
 choice then but to remain inactive, looking at the slow 
 dissolution of this immense barrier of ice, or proceed 
 to the southward in hopes of finding a passage to the 
 westward in that direction. As the latter route 
 (although not leading so directly to the westward) 
 afforded more immediate employment, and, at the 
 same time, prospect of success, it was determined to 
 try what could be done by shaping our course to the 
 southward and westward. As we were sailing along 
 the edge of the ice, we discovered another island, 
 about six or seven miles to the southward and west- 
 ward of that seen last night, and about the same dis- 
 tance, farther on in that direction, more land appear- 
 ed. The whole of the space between these islands 
 and the land just mentioned was full of ice, which 
 extended indeed for several miles to the eastward of 
 them, so that we could not approach within some 
 distance of either the one or the other. These islands, 
 as well as the land beyond them, have very much the 
 appearance of that which I have been describing 
 yesterday ; the islands in particular appeared to rise 
 almost perpendicular from the sea to the height of 
 
 F 4. 
 
72 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 between two and three hundred feet ; they had very 
 httle snow on them, their top or surface being, like 
 the land alluded to, almost level. In this respect, 
 however, the land to the southward and westward of 
 them differed from them very materially, for the in- 
 terior of it, at least that part of it that bounded our 
 view, rose to a considerable height, and the hills that 
 composed it were well covered with snow ; its sur- 
 face was, however, generally speaking, smooth, that 
 is, free from rocks or abrupt precipices. The depth 
 of water off these islands corresponds (as I have ge- 
 nerally observed to be the case) with the boldness of 
 the coast, for we sounded in the forenoon in one hun- 
 dred and thirty-five fathoms (soft mud), and in the 
 afternoon it increased to one hundred and seventy- 
 five fathoms, the same sort of bottom. Although we 
 are at present checked a little by the ice, our hopes 
 of success had reason to be increased by a certain 
 circumstance that was observed to-day. The cir- 
 cumstance I allude to is the vast number of white 
 whales (Beluga^ Lin.) that were seen in the course of 
 the day, from which it is not unreasonable to conclude 
 that there is a passage from where we are, as far at 
 least as M<Kenzie's river, for that traveller mentions 
 his having seen them there. People inclined to be 
 sceptical, however, would probably consider this cir- 
 cumstance as of little or no importance, and perhaps 
 not at all deserving of being noticed in the light in 
 which I have mentioned it ; but as I am not a cold 
 speculator, disregarding every thing except facts that 
 amount almost to a positive proof, I hope to be ex- 
 cused for mentioning such circumstances as these, as 
 they may be attributed to my confidence of success. 
 As there was nothing particular doing in the forenoon, 
 a couple of boats were sent to try if they could kill 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 73 
 
 one of the fish above mentioned ; but we found that 
 they were too wary for us, notwithstanding every art 
 was practised for the purpose of getting near them, by 
 pulUng and sculhng after them, and, at other times, 
 lying still when they happened to be coming towards 
 us. The latter method appeared to promise most 
 success ; and had we a gun harpoon, I have no doubt 
 but we might have succeeded, for they generally 
 came within thirty or forty yards of us before they 
 dived. On coming under the boat, they used to re- 
 main for some time apparently viewing our motions ; 
 but they took care to keep always at such a depth that 
 it was impossible to reach them. The average length 
 of these fish was, as near as I could judge, from 
 eighteen to twenty feet ; their tail was horizontal, 
 like the rest of the order (Cete) to which they belong, 
 and they had a spiracle in the crown of their head, 
 through which they respired in the same manner as 
 the common whales do : their colour was, with few 
 exceptions, perfectly white ; these exceptions were 
 two or three that I saw of a dusky hue. 
 
 Whilst we were pursuing them tp-day, I noticed a 
 circumstance that appeared to me rather extraordi- 
 nary at the time, and which I have not indeed been 
 able to account for yet to my satisfaction. The 
 thing alluded to, is a sort of whistling noise that 
 these fish made when under the surface of the water ; 
 it was very audible, and the only sound which I 
 could compare it to, is that produced by passing a 
 wet finger round the edge, or rim of a glass tumbler. 
 It was most distinctly heard when they were coming 
 towards the surface of the water, that is, about half 
 a minute before they appeared, and immediately 
 they got their head above the water the noise ceased. 
 The men were so highly amused by it, that they re- 
 
74 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 pcatedly urged one another to pull smartly, in order 
 to get near the place where the fish were supposed 
 to be, for the piu*pose of hearing what they called 
 a "whale-song:'* it certainly had very little resem- 
 blance to a song, but sailors are not generally the 
 most happy in their comparisons. 
 
 Several fish of anotlier genus of the cetaceous 
 tribe were seen this forenoon for the first time this 
 voyage, viz. the Sea Unicorn, or Narwhal, (^Monodon 
 MonoceroSi Lin.) They were seen together in a 
 shoal, in the same manner that the White- Whales 
 went. 
 
 Friday t 6th. — The weather having cleared up 
 about noon, land was seen very distinctly to the 
 southward and eastward of us, which forms, with 
 the land to the southward and westward of the two 
 islands before mentioned, a large inlet or opening 
 leading about S. S. W. true. The west side of this 
 inlet is full of ice, so that in getting on we shall be 
 obliged to sail along pretty near the south-east land. 
 I shall therefore not say any thing respecting its 
 appearance at present, as we are likely to see more 
 of it hereafter. We sounded to-day in one hundred 
 and eighty fathoms, soft mud. A great number of 
 white-whales were seen again to-day, and a few also 
 of the common, or black-whale ; seals were also seen 
 in great numbers, both on the ice and in the water. 
 The compasses have become within these two days 
 so sluggish in their motions, that they are almost 
 useless, for all bearings of land are obliged to be 
 taken by astronomical observation, that is, by the 
 bearing of the sun, and the ships are indeed con- 
 ducted more by the same means than by the com- 
 pass, so that, when that luminary is obscured by 
 
TO THE ARCTIC P.EGTONS. 75 
 
 foggy weather, it is a difficult matter to know which 
 way we are going. 
 
 Saturday y '^th. — As we happened to be at no great 
 distance from the south-east land to-day, it was 
 deemed an object of importance to draw close in 
 towards it, for the purpose of sending a boat ashore 
 to make (magnetic) observations, the compasses beino- 
 as I have already mentioned, in such a state *, that 
 we have reason to suppose that we are at no great 
 distance from the magnetic Pole, t It will be seen 
 from the result of the observations made on this 
 occasion, that our supposition cannot be far wrong ; 
 for the dip, or vertical inclination of the dipping- 
 needle, was 86° 28', and the variation 118° westerly ; 
 and Captain Kater's azimuth compasses, notwith- 
 standing their delicate construction, were so sluggish 
 in their motions, that they required to be very nicely 
 levelled, and frequently tapped before the card tra- 
 versed. From these circumstances it may be very 
 easily seen what little dependence there is to.be 
 placed in our compasses on board, which, in addition 
 to the disadvantages they labour under from their 
 construction, are at the same time so much affected 
 by local attraction, that they can no longer be trusted 
 to as guides ; but if successful, the more difficulty 
 the greater merit. Besides the Egyptians are said 
 to have circumnavigated Africa long before the use 
 of the compass was known, and why should not we 
 circumnavigate America two thousand years after, 
 
 * I need only mention one circumstance to shew the state in 
 which the compasses were in on board, which is, that when the 
 ship's head was west, the variation was 180", or, in other words, 
 the north point of the compass pointed south. 
 
 "t The latitude of the place where these observations were 
 made, was 72^ 45' N., and longitude 90° 10' W. 
 
76 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 without the help of that useful iustrument ? I wisli 
 only that no greater obstacle than the want of 
 compasses may impede us, and then I am sure that 
 we shall accomplish our object ; but to leave the 
 subject for time to prove, I shall briefly notice such 
 circumstances as came under my observation to-day 
 during my excursion on shore. 
 
 The part of the coast where we landed, and, in- 
 deed, every part of this land that we have yet seen, 
 is, generally speaking, low near the sea-coast, and 
 rising gradually inland ; but no part of it, as far as 
 our view extended, rose to a sufficient height to be 
 called mountainous. It had very little snow on it, 
 its appearance at a distance was very barren, and on 
 getting to it we found that its distant prospect 
 had not deceived us ; for it was one of the most 
 sterile spots that I have yet seen, even in the Arctic 
 regions. Of vegetation, it could hardly be said that 
 any existed ; a few small tufts of grass along the 
 banks of the streams, and, here and there, some 
 stunted poppies, composed the chief part of the 
 Flora of this place. Lichens might also be enumerated 
 amongst the vegetable productions of this land, but 
 as these are to be met with in every place where 
 rocks exist, it can hardly be necessary to mention 
 them. It appeared to be also very thinly inhabited 
 by animals of any description ; all that we saw were 
 a couple of Ptarmigans {Tetrao Lagopus, Lin.), and 
 a few Snow-buntings. We have reason to suppose, 
 however, that some quadrupeds live on it, although 
 we did not see any, for we found in a sort of cave, or 
 excavation in one of the rocks, a quantity of white 
 hair, or fur, which we supposed to be that of a fox ; 
 and, in the same place, there were several seals* 
 bones, from which it may be concluded, that the 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 77 
 
 visitant of that retired spot must have been, at all 
 events, a carnivorous animal. No traces were seen 
 of any human beings being here before ourselves, 
 but if any should ever happen to visit the same 
 place hereafter, it is probable that they will not 
 have the same thing to say, for, on the top of a hill, 
 about half a mile from where we landed, we planted 
 a pole that might be seen at some distance, having a 
 piece of board nailed across the top of it, on which 
 were painted these words : " His Britannic Majesty's 
 ships, Hecla and Griper, August 7- 1819,'* and at a 
 short distance from the staff was buried a quart bottle, 
 in which was a slip of paper, containing the follow- 
 ing short, but veiy explicit, piece of information : 
 " His Britannic Majesty's ships, Hecla and Griper, 
 were off this coast on the 7th of August, 1819, in 
 search of a north-west passage." With respect to 
 the mineralogy of this place, I have only to remark, 
 that the fixed rocks consisted chiefly of limestone, 
 which was in a very disintegrated state, being some- 
 what like lime in the act of slaking. The surface 
 of all the loose pieces of stone in the neighbourhood 
 of these rocks was incrusted with lime, which had, 
 apparently, been in a fluid state, for it looked more 
 like the top of a cauliflower than any thing else I could 
 compare it to. This incrustation was not confined to 
 limestone alone, for I observed that quartz, granite, 
 hornblende, or whatever other minerals happened to 
 lie on these rocks, were coated in the same manner. 
 
 The limestone appeared to compose only the 
 surface of this land, for the bed of a stream * 
 that ran between two rocks of limestone, was 
 
 * The temperature of the water of this stream was 42^°, that 
 of the air in the shade 51^-°, and of the earth near the surface 
 
19 A VOYAGE Ol" DISCOVERY" 
 
 composed entirely of clay slate, and the rocks along 
 shore, wherever they appeared, were also of this 
 kind. The beach did not appear to be much beaten 
 by the sea, for the rocks and loose stones that com- 
 posed it did not bear the marks of much attrition. 
 This may, in a great measure, be attributed to the 
 manner in which it is guarded by ice, for all along 
 shore there was a chain of large pieces of it from 
 eight to ten feet thick, which of course shielded all 
 within it from the violence of the sea, that is to say, 
 if such ever exist. 
 
 The most part of this ice was floating when we 
 landed, but when we came off the greatest part of it 
 was aground, having been left on the beach by the 
 ebbing of the tide, which during the three hours we 
 were ashore had fallen six feet. It had ebbed before 
 we landed about eighteen inches, so that the rise and 
 fall of the tide at this place may be estimated at 
 twelve, or fourteen feet. We observed that the ebb 
 set to the southward and westward, consequently the 
 flood must come from that direction, a circumstance 
 •which I think must be evident to every person as 
 very much in our favour ; for if the flood came from 
 the Atlantic, why not come through the extensive 
 passage formerly called Lancaster's Sound ? To this 
 it may be answered, indeed, that the opening or 
 inlet which we are in, may communicate with the 
 Atlantic through Cumberland's Straits, or any of 
 those passages between this and Hudson's Bay, and 
 that the flood may come from that direction. That 
 such may be the case is certainly true, but when a 
 question admits of two solutions, it is not unreason- 
 able to put that construction on it, that is most 
 congenial to a person's views. IJiit to abandon this 
 field of conjecture, 1 shall briefly state the few 
 
TO THE AllCTIC REGIONS. 79 
 
 remaining occurrences that came under my observ-. 
 ation in the course of the day. When speaking of the 
 beach, I omitted to mention, that, in the Httle pools of 
 water left when the tide ebbed, we found myriads of 
 small shrimps, or what are vulgarly called sea-lice ; on 
 the beach there were also a great number of shells of 
 different kinds, the greatest part of those that I saw 
 consisted of the Venus and Mya genera. 
 
 Sunday, 8th. — We came this morning to ii 
 compact barrier of ice, that extended in an oblique 
 direction from the west land, to the south-east land, 
 or that which we were on yesterday. We were by 
 this means reduced again to two alternatives, viz. 
 to wait here * until an opening might happen to take 
 place in the ice, that would enable us to proceed on, 
 or to return again to the northward, to see if any 
 favourable change had taken place there of which we 
 might take advantage. As the distance we have to 
 go back is not very considerable, it was deemed most 
 proper to retrace our course again to the northward, 
 than to remain inactive at this place. Other consi- 
 derations might also be mentioned, tending to favour 
 this resolution ; in the first place the northern pas- 
 sage, if I may so call the opening described on the 
 5th instant, appeared to lead directly to the west- 
 ward, or in fact it seemed to be a continuation of the 
 spacious passage, through which we came from 
 Baffin's Bay ; and, in the second place, we have had 
 experience enough of the ice to know that extraordi- 
 nary changes take place in it, without any apparent 
 cause, for we have often seen the most compact 
 bodies of it opening, without either wind or tide 
 
 * Our latitude at noon was 72° 13' N. and longitude 90** 29' W., 
 which must have been very nearly the farthest that we went in 
 this inlet. 
 
80 A VOYAGE 01- DlSCOVEllY 
 
 affecting it in any way that we could perceive. 
 Under these circumstances, we are not without hopes 
 that, by the time we have reached the place alluded 
 to, some favourable change may have taken place in 
 the state of the ice. Although I have thus endea- 
 voured to shew, that the northern passage appears to 
 lead more directly in the way in which we want to 
 go, yet I am far from thinking that the inlet which 
 we are in, does not also communicate with the sea 
 seen by Messrs. Hearne and M'Kenzie. Its extent, 
 indeed, and the depth of water that we have found 
 in it, are too considerable to lead us to suppose that 
 it terminates near where we were when stopped by 
 the ice ; for at that place, it must have been at least 
 from forty to fifty miles broad, and the depth of the 
 water, although we were only a few miles from the 
 land, was from thirty to forty fathoms ; and yesterday, 
 when we were more amid channel, we tried for 
 soundings with a line of two hundred fathoms up and 
 down, and yet we did not strike bottom. 
 
 From these considerations then, in addition to the 
 fact mentioned yesterday respecting the tide, it, I 
 think, appears very obvious, that this inlet commu- 
 nicates with the ocean, through another channel 
 besides that through which we went. 
 
 Monday, 9th. — We have been working to the 
 northward all day, along the eastern edge of the ice, 
 that is, between it and the south-east land. In this 
 channel we have, during these few days past, seen such 
 a number of the common, or black whales, that our 
 (Greenland) masters seem to think that an establish- 
 ment, or factory, situated here for the purpose of 
 killing whales, would be very likely to turn out a 
 lucrative speculation ; for, in addition to the oil that 
 might be collectetl, a vast quantity of ivory might 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 81 
 
 also be procured ; for we have seen, during the time 
 that we have been in this inlet, hundreds of narwhals, 
 or sea unicorns, and I understand that their horns are 
 very good ivory. I have of late spoke so often of 
 magnetism, that introducing that subject again, will, I 
 have no doubt, appear little better than a recapitula- 
 tion of what has already been said. I cannot help 
 mentioning, however, that we observed to-day the 
 compasses to be so much affected by local attraction, 
 that, in whatever direction the ship's head happened 
 to be placed in, the north point of compass pointed 
 towards it. This was more particularly obvious in 
 Captain Kater's suspended needle, which, from the 
 delicacy of its construction, went round regularly as 
 the ship's head moved, when she went about : the 
 other compasses, indeed, traversed so badly, that they 
 frequently remained almost stationary for some time 
 after the ship changed her course ; but by being 
 tapped a little by the hand they generally traversed 
 round, until, as I have already said, their north point 
 coincided with the direction of the ship's head. The 
 cause of this directive power of the ship on the com- 
 passes may easily be accounted for, at least, it appears 
 to me to be simply thus : that, as the greatest part of 
 the iron in the ship is situated before the binnacles, 
 that is, between them and the ship's head, the north 
 point of the needle will of course be attracted in that 
 direction. It is unnecessary to observe, from what 
 has been said, that the compasses are now become 
 totally useless. An instrument was got up to-day, 
 however, that promises to be a very good substitute 
 for them whenever the sun shines ; but when that 
 luminary is not visible, it will be of no man- 
 ner of use, for it is in fact a sun-dial, divided like 
 
8^ A VOYAGE OF DISCOVIiltY 
 
 the mariner's compass-card into thirty-two points, 
 or rhumbs ; and for the sake of greater accu- 
 racy these points are again sub- divided into de- 
 grees. In the centre of it there is an index, 
 gnomon, or nave that revolves on a pivot, so that 
 by knowing the time of the day, the course the ship 
 is steering is easily ascertained by turning this index: 
 towards the sun ; for it is obvious that when the 
 azimuth or bearing of the sun coincides with that 
 point of the dial that is of the same denomination, 
 all the other points of the horizon will correspond 
 with the respective points of the same name on the 
 dial-plate. For instance, at noon, or when the sun 
 is due south, if the point of the dial marked south 
 be turned towards the sun, all the other points of it 
 will be directed to those of the same name in the 
 horizon ; and that which points towards the ship's 
 head, if the dial is a midship's, will of course be the 
 direction she is going in at that time. I ought to 
 observe at the same time, that the dial should be 
 adjusted at least every three quarters of an hour, 
 to correspond with the motion of the sun in azimuth, 
 and whenever the ship alters her course it will ne- 
 cessarily require to be adjusted afresh. From these 
 different corrections or adjustments being so often 
 required, it would seem at first to be rather a trouble- 
 some guide, and, when compared with that invaluable 
 instrument, the compass, it certainly is so ; but under 
 the present circumstances, it is, as I have already re- 
 marked, an useful instrument. The makers, and if 
 I mistake not the inventors of this instrument, are 
 Messrs. Atkins and Harris. 
 
 Tuesday y 10th. — The weather has been foggy 
 during the greatest part of the day, so that the 
 compass-dial above described has been of very little 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. S"? 
 
 use to us; our course was so bounded however by 
 the land on one side, and the ice on the other, that 
 a compass was very little required, for it was impos- 
 sible for us to go much out of our way. 
 
 The land that we have passed during these two 
 days, appeared to be as barren as that on which we 
 landed to the southward (on the 7th inst.) ; it dif- 
 fered from it however in some respects, being in the 
 first place considerably higher, and along the coast 
 much more rugged, not unlike the land on the north 
 side of the passage. 
 
 Wednesday y Wth. — The weather being foggy the 
 greatest part of the day, it was impossible without 
 compasses to know which way we were going ; we 
 therefore made fast to a floe of ice, and watered the 
 ship from the pools on the surface of it. In the course 
 of the afternoon several Narwhals were seen about 
 the ship ; and, as we had nothing particular to do at 
 the time, a boat was lowered and sent after them, to 
 try to kill one if possible ; in this they succeeded 
 without much difficulty, for one was secured by the 
 first harpoon, and I have no doubt, had fishing been 
 our object, but many more might have been got. 
 Notwithstanding his size, we managed to hoist him 
 on board without being cut up ; we could not conve- 
 niently weigh him ; but I should imagine from his bulk, 
 when compared with the sea-horse, or Walrus, that 
 we killed some time ago, that he would have weighed 
 upwards of two tons. The different measurements 
 taken of him are inserted in the following page: 
 I have therefore to add only the few remarks that 
 appeared to me worthy of being noticed. In the 
 first place, then, as. the horn is the most prominent 
 
 G ^ 
 
Si 
 
 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERV 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 85 
 
 object about this fish, it may not be improper to 
 say a few words respecting it, in addition to the 
 dimensions given below. It protruded from the 
 left side of the upper snout, in a line parallel with the 
 
 Dimensions of the Nartvhal. 
 Length of the horn * beyond tks head 
 Circumference of the horn at its root 
 Do. at the tip - 
 
 Length of the body from the root of the horn to the 
 
 fork of the tail - - - - 
 
 Estimated circumference of the thickest part of the body 
 From the root of the horn to the eye 
 From the angle of the mouth to the end of the lip 
 Breadth across the mouth at the broadest part - 
 Depth of the snout across the mouth 
 From the root of the horn to the fore part of the fin 
 Breadth of the fins at the root - - - 
 
 Do. at the broadest part - - . 
 
 Length of the fins - - - - 
 
 Expansion of the tail ... 
 
 Depth of do. - . - _ 
 
 Circumference of the smallest part of the body ; that is, 
 
 at the place where the tail began to expand 
 From anus to the fork of the tail - - _ 
 
 From the fork of the tail to the teats (two in number) - 
 Do. to penis - . . 
 
 Do. to umbilicus - - - 
 
 From the eye to the orifice f of the organ of hearing - 
 Diameter of the spiracle (which was situated in the 
 
 crown of the head, and 1 foot 2^ inches from the 
 
 snout) - - ... 
 
 Thickness of the skin - ... 
 
 Do. of the blubber, at an average 
 
 * The end of the horn was hollow in consequence of a piece having beeti 
 broken off. It is probable that at least six inches of it had been broken. 
 
 t It was so small that it was some time before we discovered it. It being of « 
 siie sufficient cMily to admit a small probe. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 In. 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 5^ 
 
 
 
 2,V 
 
 13 
 
 5i 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 6i 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 6i 
 
 
 
 7i 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 8$ 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 4- 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 4- 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 
 5h 
 
 
 
 2| 
 
 
 
 Oh 
 
 
 
 H 
 
86 A VOYAGE OF DIbCOVERY 
 
 body of the fish taken lengthwise; on the opposite 
 side of the snout there was not the least appearance 
 of a horn, or protuberance of any kind, as is said to 
 be frequently observed in these fish : but much greater 
 anomalies than this have occasionally been met with, 
 for instances are known where the two horns grew 
 to the usual size, and, if I am rightly informed, 
 many instances have occurred where the horn on the 
 right side has protruded through the skin. The 
 female of this fish is said never to have any horns, 
 and, owing to this circumstance, I have been told that 
 it frequently happens at the custom-houses, where 
 our whalers give an account of the fish that they 
 kill during the season, that all the unicorns they have 
 taken are said to be " she ones,'* in order to evade 
 the duty on the horns. The narwhal has no teeth, nor 
 the appearance of any other substance that can an- 
 swer as a substitute for them, so that their food, like 
 that of the common whale, must be of a very soft 
 nature ; their tongue is also like that of the latter 
 fish, not at all calculated to assist in mastication, 
 being nothing but a mass of soft fat adhering 
 nearly throughout to the under part of the mouth. 
 The eyes were small, considering the size of 
 the fish ; they were deep-seated, but not so far 
 in as to be situated in the socket of bone that was 
 underneath them. The form of the eye, or rather 
 of the eyelids, was that of a triangle, whose sides 
 measured about three-fourths of an inch. The 
 tail of the narwhal is like the rest of the cetaceous 
 order, horizontal, and consists, like that of the com- 
 mon whale, of gristly fat, covered with skin, like the 
 rest of the body. The fins are also formed of the 
 same materials, so that it may be said that these fish 
 
TO THK ARCTIC REGIONS. 87 
 
 differ in every respect from the rest of the finny race, 
 except in form, and the element in which they live : 
 they have been indeed very properly named by Dr. 
 Shaw, the fish-formed mammalia. The skin on the 
 back and sides was mottled, of a black and white 
 marble colour, and that on the under part of the 
 body was nearly all white ; it was very soft, and was 
 formed, like that of the black whale, of vertical fibres, 
 somewhat like a transverse section of a piece of wood. 
 
 Immediately under the skin there was a layer of 
 blubber, from three to four inches thick, which en- 
 veloped the whole body ; this coating was stripped 
 off and put into casks, and it is expected when boiled 
 to yield from sixty to seventy gallons of oil. The 
 muscular part of the body was exceedingly black, 
 and so soft as to be torn very easily by the hand. 
 The lungs were large and of a light fleshy colour : 
 the heart was also of a very considerable size, but its 
 parietis was not strong in proportion to its bulk. 
 The liver was of a dark brown, or chocolate colour, 
 and very oily. The stomach contained nothing but 
 a small quantity of a greenish oily liquid ; and the 
 rest of the alimentary canal, although of considerable 
 size, had nothing in it at this time but a small quan- 
 tity of the same sort of fluid. The kidnies were 
 large, and were composed of a congeries of small 
 round masses like those of an ox. The urinary blad- 
 der was not larger than that of the animal just men- 
 tioned ; the testes were, however, much larger than 
 those of any of our domestic quadrupeds. 
 
 I have now only to observe, that the relative situ- 
 ation of all these viscera, was the same as in terres- 
 trial animals of the mammalia kind. 
 
 G 4 
 
88 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 In concluding the diary, or events of the day, I 
 ought to mention that we sounded in the afternoon, 
 whilst fast to the floe, in one hundred and seventy 
 fathoms water, soft clay-coloured mud. Our distance 
 from the east land at the time was from eight to ten 
 miles. 
 
 Thursday y IQth. — We observed to-day that the 
 compasses traversed with greater facility than they 
 have done for some time past ; Mr. Jennings' insulating 
 compass was found to agree within five degrees with 
 the plane of the magnetic meridian*, so that we 
 may infer, that by going to the northward we recede 
 from the magnetic pole. It must not be understood, 
 however, from this, that the compasses have improved 
 so much as to be of any use yet to navigate, or steer 
 the ships by them ; on the contrary, we were obliged 
 to remain fast until six o'clock this morning to the 
 floe that the ships were secured to yesterday fore- 
 noon, on account of the weather, during that period, 
 being so foggy that it was impossible to know which 
 way to steer. The distance that we have gone, in- 
 deed, from the place where I spoke of the compasses 
 last, is not sufficient to make any great difference in 
 this respect : for our latitude to-day at noon was 
 only 73° N. and longitude 90° 34' W. We sounded 
 this evening, in one hundred and ninety fathoms 
 water, (soft mud). 
 
 • As it is possible that this expression may appear equivocal, 
 it may perhaps be necessary to observe, that by saying that the 
 compass agreed within five degrees with the plane of the magnetic 
 meridian, I meant that the north point of the compass, or rather 
 the needle itself, coincided within five degrees with the plane of 
 the M. meridian, as determined by an azimuth compass on 
 the ice. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 89 
 
 Friday y 13th. — A boat went ashore this forenoon, 
 to examine an inlet or creek that appeared in the 
 east land, where they found a very good harbour, 
 having an island at the entrance of it, that sheltered 
 it from the violence of the sea : there was depth 
 enough of water in it for a ship of any size, so that 
 if this place should ever happen to be frequented by 
 shipping, we can assure them of finding at least one 
 secure harbour on this coast. It is situated in lati- 
 tude 73" 12' N., and longitude SO'' 41' W. 
 
 The land here is much higher, and the coast bolder 
 than to the southward j it is composed however of the 
 same materials, viz. limestone. We find also, as I 
 have frequently observed before, that the depth of 
 the water increases according as the coast becomes 
 bolder ; this forenoon when we were only about two 
 miles from the shore, we had no less than one hun- 
 dred and thirty fathoms water, (soft mud). 
 
 Since we got into deeper water, I observed also that 
 the whales have been seen in greater numbers, and 
 as for the narwhals they are seen swimming about at 
 all hours of the day in shoals : it would appear from 
 what we see that this is their time for copulating. 
 
 Sunday y 15th. — We are still retarded by the ice, 
 which extends, as I have mentioned some time ago, 
 from the north land to the two islands that lie 
 between it, and the south-west land. The distance 
 between these islands and the nearest part of the 
 south-east land (off which we are at present) is found 
 to be considerably less than was expected, when we 
 went down the inlet in which we have been for some 
 days past ; from the result of the different angles 
 taken for the purpose of determining the width of 
 
90 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 this opening, it is found that the distance between 
 the easternmost island, or that first seen, and the 
 S. E. land, is only twenty-eight miles, and between 
 it and the other island still less, being no more than 
 twenty-six miles and a half. 
 
 A boat landed to-day again on the east coast, 
 which they found to be more barren, if possible, than 
 where we landed on the 7th inst. From the minera- 
 logical specimens brought off, it appeared to consist, 
 like that to the southward, of limestone, in some 
 pieces of which were found fossil shells, flint, and 
 agate ; several pieces of madrepore were also brought 
 on board. A pile of loose stones was erected on the 
 top of a hill, near where the boat landed, under which 
 was buried a quart bottle, containing a slip of paper 
 intimating our being off this coast on such a date. 
 The dip and variation of the magnetic needle was, 
 as might naturally be expected from recent observ- 
 ations, found to be less here than to the southward ; 
 the latter was only 115" W. Whilst the boat was on 
 shore, we sounded in one hundred and seventy 
 fathoms water (soft mud), being at the time not more 
 than two miles and a half, or three miles at most, 
 from the land. It is, perhaps, hardly necessary to 
 remark, that the soundings and the formation of the 
 coast corresponded, as I have always observed to 
 be the case before, in the latter being bold, and -in 
 some places precipitous. 
 
 Monday i Ibth. — Whilst we were sounding this 
 afternoon, a boat was made fast to the deep-sea-line, 
 in order to try the force and direction of a tide or 
 current that seemed to exist ; the result of the trial 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 91 
 
 indicated its direction to be N. N. W. (true), and 
 going at the rate of a quarter of a mile per hour. 
 
 The ice forms still a compact barrier to the west- 
 ward, so that it would be vain to attempt to force 
 through it ; we are, as usual, constantly surrounded 
 by whales, unicorns, and, within these two or three 
 days past, seals of the kind called by seamen saddle- 
 back, from a dark-coloured stripe across their back. 
 
 Thursday y 19th. — Nothing occurred during these 
 two days past deserving of particular notice, the ice 
 forming still a compact body to the westward, all that 
 could be done was to sail about along its edge, 
 watching the first favourable change that might 
 occur, to push through. Although that wished-for 
 change has not yet taken place, there is every pros- 
 pect to-day that it will soon happen ; for a strong 
 breeze of wind sprang up last night from east by 
 north (true), which already seems to have had some 
 effect on the ice, for we found several loose streams, 
 and detached pieces of it, scattered about to-day in 
 all directions. It is probable then, that if the wind 
 veers round to the northward and westward, that we 
 shall soon have a clear passage ; for there is plenty of 
 clear water between this and Baffin's Bay to receive 
 an immense quantity of ice. As we have some reason 
 to hope, then, that this will soon take place, we got 
 close in with the north land to-day, in order to be in 
 readiness to get on immediately an opening occurs, 
 which is presumed, from the direction of the wind, 
 will take place between that coast and the ice. 
 
 Friday y 20th. — We found to-day, that our antici- 
 pations respecting the ice has turned out just as we 
 wished and expected ; for a narrow channel was dis- 
 
9^ A VOYAGF. OP DISCOVERY 
 
 covered between it and the land, which we entered, 
 as might be expected, with great pleasure ; but the 
 wind having become very light after we got close in 
 with the land, we made but little progress ; we have 
 the satisfaction, however, of finding, that there is an 
 open channel along the coast as far as we can see to 
 the westward. We got in the afternoon abreast of 
 a deep bay in the north land, where we sounded in 
 one hundred and thirty-two fathoms water, (soft 
 mud). 
 
 Sunday i 9/>td. '— The weather was calm the greatest 
 part of yesterday, so that nothing was done worthy 
 of being mentioned. A light breeze sprung up, 
 however, this forenoon, which enabled us to get 
 on a little way. The part of the coast that we passed 
 to-day was very much intersected with bays and 
 inlets, some of which were of considerable extent. 
 The appearance of the land itself was somewhat 
 similar to the same line of coast to the eastward, only 
 it was more broken, and consequently it presented a 
 greater variety of shapes. In some parts of it there 
 were perpendicular cliffs of very great height, but 
 still retaining, like the other parts of this coast al- 
 ready described, a stratified appearance. 
 
 As the ships were making but little progress, on 
 account of the lightness of the wind, a couple of 
 boats were sent ashore in the afternoon to a sort of 
 headland off which the ships happened to be at the 
 time ; but a breeze of wind having sprung up shortly 
 after we landed, our stay on shore was but very short. 
 A few observations were made, however, by which 
 it was determined that the variation of the compass 
 was 129° W. J the longitude of the place, by sights 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS, 93 
 
 taken for the chronometers, 91° 55' W. ; and the 
 latitude, by Cole's method, 74° 40' N. What little 
 we saw of this coast was as barren as any place that 
 we have yet landed on ; for, with the exception of 
 stunted poppies, there was scarcely any other ve- 
 getable production to be seen on it. It appeared to 
 be also but thinly inhabited by the animal kingdom ; 
 for all those that we saw were some mallemucks that 
 were hovering about the face of the rocks, where 
 they apparently had nests ; a couple of glaucous gulls, 
 with their young : the old birds were shot, and the 
 two young ones, being unable to fly, were brought 
 on board alive. There was also another gull shot, 
 which was about the size of the glaucouses, and re- 
 sembled them almost in every other respect, except 
 in having the primary feathers of the wings tipped 
 with black, from which it was concluded to be that 
 species of gull called the Larus Argentatus^ which 
 forms the connecting link between the glaucous and 
 the herring-gull. Although the land seemed to be 
 but thinly inhabited, the sea appeared to be as 
 well stocked as usual ; for, during the short time we 
 were on shore, six large whales were seen close in 
 with the land, and a number of seals and sea-horses 
 were also seen in the course of the day. The land 
 appeared also to be indebted for a considerable por- 
 tion of its constituent ingredients to the sea ; for the 
 rocks, which were of limestone, contained an im- 
 mense quantity of marine fossil shells, and madre- 
 pores. The former, in particular, composed such a 
 large proportion of the fixed rocks, that it would be 
 difficult to find a single fragment of them of any size 
 that did not contain many shells ; and if pieces in 
 
94 A VOYAGE or DISCOVERT 
 
 which they were most abundant were to be selected, 
 hand-specimens might have been got in which there 
 were dozens of them. They were all, or at least 
 all those that I remembered having seen, of the bi- 
 valve kind, and appeared to consist chiefly of va- 
 rieties of the Venus genus. 
 
 In that part of the rock that was washed by the 
 sea, I observed some horizontal strata of beautiful 
 white marble ; and I saw several loose pieces of it 
 amongst the debris of the rocks that overhang the 
 shore. These rocks, at the place where we landed, 
 rose to the height, I should imagine, of between three 
 and four hundred feet above the level of the sea ; 
 but, from the quantity of rubbish that fell from 
 them, the only part of their surface that could be 
 seen, was about twenty feet of their base, where 
 these mouldering remains were washed away by the 
 sea, and from sixty to eighty feet of the top of them, 
 from which the fragments in question fell. Their 
 surface, both at their top and base, was stratified. 
 The strata at the base appeared to be horizontal j but 
 those at the top seemed to dip a little to the west- 
 ward, — a thing that I observed, indeed, in all the 
 rocks that form this coast to the eastward. And, 
 from other similarities of appearance between the part 
 of the coast that we landed on this afternoon, and 
 that to the eastward, I have little doubt but all 
 of it is composed of limestone. Now, to conclude 
 the remarks that I have been enabled to make during 
 our visit on shore to-day, I have only to add one 
 circumstance, which, I must confess, I feel less plea- 
 sure in relating, than any other of the occurrences 
 of the day : it is, that we found the ebb-tide come 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 95 
 
 from the westward. This circumstance may, however, 
 be attributed to localities, so that we have no reason 
 to draw any unfavourable inference from it. The 
 tide ebbed during the time we were on shore, which 
 was about fifty minutes, between ten and eleven 
 inches. 
 
 As soon as the boat returned on board, we made 
 all sail to the westward ; but the breeze subsided 
 before we got more than a few miles on, and it con- 
 tinued almost a calm during the rest of the after- 
 noon. The weather being fine and clear, we had a 
 very extensive view in the evening, when the sun got 
 low, so that if any thing was wanting to increase our 
 hopes, the prospects before us to-night are certainly 
 quite adequate to satisfy every person ; for there are 
 two large openings or passages in sight to the west- 
 ward, the one leading about north-west, and the other 
 west-south-west (true) ; the former is perfectly clear of 
 ice, and what ice there is in the latter does not 
 appear to be sufficiently close to obstruct our passage. 
 Before concluding my account of the events of this 
 day, I ought to mention that two icebergs were seen 
 this evening, because they have, for some time past, 
 become rare objects. 
 
 Monday^ 9,3d. — Our success to-day has been 
 greater than the most sanguine could have expected, 
 for we were to-day at noon in the ninety-fifth degree 
 of west longitude, having, in the short space of the 
 last twelve hours, got no less than three degrees to 
 the westward ; and if it were not for a ledge of ice 
 that we fell in with this afternoon, it is probable that 
 we should have added three degrees more to this 
 day*s run. We have no reason to complain, as yet. 
 
9(j A VOYAGK. OF DISCOVERY 
 
 however, of the delay occasioned by it, for althougli 
 it has indeed prevented us from making a straight 
 course to the westward, it is not so compact as to 
 obstruct us entirely, or indeed to prevent us from 
 making very considerable progress through the lanes 
 or channels that intersect it. But before I enter any 
 farther into a detail of the occurrences of this day, 
 I must observe, that we are in the southernmost of 
 the two passages mentioned yesterday afternoon ; 
 the land between them, indeed, appears to be only 
 an island, for we found after getting round the S. E. 
 end of it, that it trended away to the northward and 
 westward. On the east end of this island, if I may 
 venture to call it so, there are two remarkable hills, 
 resembling at a distance two boats, bottom up : from 
 this circumstance, the headland on which they 
 are situated, obtained the name of Boat Cape. 
 Three or four leagues to the westward of this island, 
 there is another smaller island, which differs from 
 the former in its general features ; in the first place 
 it is lower, and in the next place its surface is more 
 regular, and its coast is not bounded by rocks like 
 that on which we landedyesterday ; in this last respect, 
 indeed, both these islands differ from the north land, 
 for neither of them, as far as we have yet seen, have 
 what is usually termed, a bold coast. The whole of 
 the space between these two islands is full of ice, 
 the most part of which appeared to be one floe, 
 whose surface differed from what we have generally 
 seen before, for it was full of round hummocks, that 
 rose between two and three feet above the surface 
 of the floe : it was remarked also, that this ice was 
 much heavier than any we have seen before this 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 97 
 
 season, being estimated to be at an average between 
 eight and nine feet thick. It was observed to- 
 day, that, as we came to the southward and west- 
 ward, the compasses became more sluggish again in 
 their motion, so that it may be presumed we are 
 again approaching the magnetic Pole. 
 
 Tuesday^ ^4<th. — I omitted to mention, that when 
 we were abreast of the two islands described yester- 
 day, that there was a long piece of land to the south- 
 ward of us, which ran in a direction nearly east and 
 west. The distance between this land and the 
 islands above-mentioned, is, as near as we could es- 
 timate, about thirty miles. We never came close- 
 enough to it to be able to say any thing respecting 
 it, any farther than that it resembled the land on 
 the west side of the inlet that runs to the southward 
 in the ninetieth degree of west longitude, which has 
 already been described ; and, from the trending of 
 the north side of that land, as far as we saw it, it is 
 probable that what we saw yesterday is a continu- 
 ation of it ; but as this is a matter of very little con- 
 sequence to us, it is quite unnecessary to say any 
 more on the subject. 
 
 To commence then with an account of the occur- 
 rences of the day, I have to observe that w^e have 
 had another fine run to the westward ; for we were 
 at noon in longitude 98° W., and we have every 
 prospect of getting on, indeed, more so, if possible, 
 than we ever had before ; for, with the exception of 
 some streams of ice to the southward and westward 
 of us, there is an open sea, as far as our view extends. 
 In addition to that, another circumstance occurred 
 to-day, from which, I think, a favourable conclusion 
 
 H 
 
98 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 may be drawn. The circumstance in question is, 
 that we have had a fresh and steady breeze all day 
 from the northward, a thing that has not happened 
 before to the same extent since we entered these 
 Straits, if the passage that w^e have come through 
 may be so denominated ; for the wind, whenever it 
 blew steadily for any length of time, has always 
 been from the eastward or westward, or, in other 
 words, in the direction of the passage ; and, as far 
 as my own experience goes, and, indeed, by what I 
 Can learn from others, it appears to be almost a ge- 
 neral rule, in straits, or narrow channels, for the 
 wind to blow either out or into them, particularly 
 when it blows fresh, as was the case to-day. It may 
 be presumed then, upon these grounds, that we have 
 now got an extensive sea to the northward of us. 
 We passed three or four low islands to-day again ; 
 but as it would be somewhat difficult, and at the 
 same time of little importance to give their relative 
 situations, with respect to one another, I sliall 
 merely observe, that their features are entirely of a 
 different cast from the land to the eastward, their 
 surface being smooth, low, and apparently sandy; 
 the depth of the water corresponds also with the na- 
 ture of the land, for we sounded at one time in 
 thirty-four fathoms, and the greatest depth of \vater 
 we sounded in was seventy-eight fathoms. 
 
 Wednesday, Q5th. — The wind being from the 
 westward to-day, we have not been able to make 
 much progress. The islands mentioned yesterday 
 were in sight all day, and a range of higher land, 
 apparently islands also, were seen to the northward. 
 The sea still continues to be shallower than we usually 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. §^ 
 
 had it, for we sounded several times to-day in from 
 thirty to forty fathoms water, when at least Seven of 
 eight miles from the land. 
 
 Thursday^ QGtlh —The wind still continues to blow 
 from the northward and westward, so that all the 
 ground we have gained for these two days has been 
 by beating to windward between the land and the 
 ice, which we find extends in a compact body to the 
 westward, at the distance of between four and five 
 leagues from the islands to the northward. In some 
 places indeed this channel of clear water is much 
 narrower, but the ice does not in any place, as far 
 as we have yet seen, join the land, and I think it is 
 probable that as long as we find land to the north- 
 ward to stop the polar ice from drifting down upon 
 us, that we shall always find a passage to the west- 
 ward along the land. I do not mean, liowever, to 
 say that a passage will without any interruption be 
 constantly found to exist between the land and the 
 ice ; on the contrary, I am aware that a southerly 
 wind may give us occasional checks, by forcing the ice 
 in with the coast, but immediately the wind changes 
 to the opposite direction it will necessarily have the 
 contrary effect. This is not indeed a matter of spe- 
 culation, nor do I intend it to be considered as such, 
 for both this and last year's experience have afforded 
 us so many instances of the truth of what 1 have 
 said, that I have no hesitation in giving it as my 
 opinion that the vicinity of land to the northward 
 will always be in our favour.- My object in being so 
 particular on this point is, because there are some 
 amongst us quite of a different opinion. 
 
 Friday, T/th, — We had a slant of wind in our 
 
 H 2 
 
100 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 favour to-day, which enabled us to make consider- 
 able progress, for we were at noon in longitude 
 102° 30' W., latitude 75° 03' N. ; and, as far as present 
 appearances go, we have every reason to suppose 
 that, if the wind continues, we shall add a few 
 more degrees to the number before this time to- 
 morrow. No land has been seen to the southward 
 for these three days past, but the ice extends in that 
 direction as far as we can see, and is about the same 
 distance from the islands to the northward as I men- 
 tioned yesterday. I ought to obsei've, that as we 
 came along, more islands have been seen to the 
 northward ; they are of the same character as those 
 I described four days ago, that is, low near the coast 
 and rising gradually towards their centre. 
 
 Saturday^ '^'^tlu — A boat was sent this forenoon 
 to an island to make observations for determining the 
 variation of the compass, which, somewhat to our 
 surprise, was found to have changed from west to 
 east, or, in other words, it exceeded 180°, if the 
 usual term of westerly variation was to be continued. 
 In consequence of the sluggish manner in which 
 the compasses traversed, and the observations being 
 made very near noon, when the sun moved slow in 
 azimuth, the result of these observations were, as 
 might be expected, rather wide of one another, for 
 the first set of azimuths I took gave the variation 
 167° E.; the next set 168° E. j and the third and 
 last set 169° E. : the magnetic dip, or vertical incli- 
 nation of the dipping-needle at this place, was 
 88° 27'. * The place where these observations were 
 
 * For the magnetic dips given in different parts of this journal, 
 I am indebted to Mr. Griffiths (of the Griper), who has been good 
 enough to furnish mc with these observations. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 101 
 
 made we found to be in latitude 75° 9' N., and longi- 
 tude, by chronometer, 103'' 50' W. The tide was 
 flowing when we landed, and, during the four hours 
 we were on shore, it only rose sixteen inches j the 
 flood came from the northward and westward. This 
 island was, as near as I could judge, about ten miles 
 in length, that is, if it is taken for granted that its 
 greatest diameter is from north to south or in the 
 direction that we viewed it ; but it is possible that I 
 may be premature in thus attempting to give its 
 dimensions before we have seen all round it, for it 
 may extend to the westward farther than we have 
 any idea of yet. It resembled exactly, as to appear- 
 ance, the islands that we have been passing for seve- 
 ral days past, that is, low near the coast, and rising 
 gradually towards the interior. The sea-coast, and 
 a considerable part of the surface of it, indeed, as 
 far as we went inland, was composed of fine sand ; 
 and the fixed rocks, wherever they were seen above 
 the surface, was found to consist of white sandstone 
 of a very soft and fine texture ; and I have no doubt 
 but the islands that we have passed lately are com- 
 posed of the same kind of stone, for ever since we 
 got amongst them the soundings have been found to 
 consist of fine sand; whilstthat brought up by the lead, 
 when we were passing the high land to tlie eastward, 
 consisted of soft mud that effervesced when touched 
 with acid. The vegetation on this island was, when 
 compared with what we have lately seen, rather 
 luxuriant ; moss in particular grew in considerable 
 abundance in the moist valleys, and along the banks 
 of the streams that flowed from the hills. These 
 streams were, indeed, at this time almost dried up, 
 
 H 3 
 
102 A VOVAGi: OF DISCOVERY 
 
 their source, viz. the snow, being entirely dissolved j 
 along the beach, however, there were numerous frag- 
 ments of heavy floe-ice aground, and in one place 
 therQ was an extensive ledge of it firmly attached 
 to tlie beach, with its surface covered with sand, 
 in such a manner, that a cursory observer might take 
 it to be a part of the land. 
 
 AVe saw no animals of any kind on this island ; but 
 we found evident proofs of its having been frequented, 
 not only by different species of the brute creation, 
 but that it had also, at some period or other, been 
 inhabited by man ; for, at the distance of about a 
 quarter of a mile from the shore, we found the ruins 
 of six huts close together on the side of a hill. From 
 the dilapidated state of these ruins, it was impossible 
 to draw any certain conclusions as to what time they 
 had been inhabited, but it must have certainly been a 
 long time ago, for nothing remained of them but the 
 stones that marked their size and site ; and, from 
 tha small mimber of stones that the ruins were com- 
 posed of, it is probable that they were only temporary 
 residences. They had been all nearly about the same 
 size, that is, about twelve feet long and from eight 
 to ten feet broad, besides a space about three feet 
 square formed by four flags set up on their edge, at 
 the end of each hut. I understand from those that 
 have been often amongst the Esquimaux huts in 
 Greenland, that they have always a small apartment 
 of this sort at one end of their hut, in which they 
 keep all ihS.r provisions ; so that we may infer from 
 this circumstance that the ruins we have seen to-day 
 belonged to a small tribe or party of Esquimaux that 
 were here probably on a summer excursion.. Those in- 
 clined togivetheseruinsgreaterantiquity, may consider 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 103 
 
 them as one of the resting-places of the Esqiumaux 
 in their emigration from Asia to Greenland ; for, ac- 
 cording to the tradition of the Greenlanders them- 
 selves, their forefathers came originally from the 
 westward. But be this as it may, it does not at all 
 appear to me that the ruins we have seen to-day are 
 likely to be one of the stations occupied at that re- 
 mote period, more especially as a more probable 
 way of accounting for them may be assigned to a 
 party of Esquimaux having visited these islands 
 during some of their excursions from the coast of 
 America ; for we know, from H earners Account, that 
 that continent is inhabited by these people nearly op- 
 posite to where we are. 
 
 Although we are left in doubt as to what time this 
 island was visited by man, we have very unequivocal 
 proofs of its being recently inhabited by different 
 animals, for we found numerous tracks of what we 
 supposed to be reindeer, some of them apparently 
 very lately made ; and several of their horns, and 
 small portions of their hair, were found in different 
 places where they had been lying. We had an 
 equally good proof of this place being frequented by 
 Musk-oxen (Bos MoschatuSy Lin.), for we found 
 the skeleton of one in a perfect state, except that 
 the bones of the legs were separated from the rest, 
 most probably by some carnivorous animal. The 
 skull and horns were perfectly entire ; but from the 
 appearance of the horns, and indeed of the bones in 
 general, they must have been exposed to the wea- 
 ther at least one winter. Whether the cloven tracks 
 we saw were chiefly those of the musk-oxen, or 
 reindeer, it is impossible to say ; but if we were to 
 
 H 4 
 
lOl- A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 judge from the number of deer's horns we saw, we 
 should be indined to consider them as being princi- 
 pally those of the latter animal. It would appear 
 that bears also frequent this land occasionally ; for 
 we found two or three of their skulls, and their 
 tracks were pretty numerous along the beach. On 
 the sand -hillocks along the shore, there were immense 
 numbers of small sea-shells of the Venus kind, 
 which had unquestionably been carried thereby some 
 animals, for they were considerably beyond the tide- 
 mark. 
 
 From all these circumstances, then, it is very 
 evident that this island is frequented occasionally by 
 different kinds of animals, although we had not the 
 good fortune of seeing any of them, which indeed 
 is not to be much surprised at, for the weather be- 
 came hazy very soon after we landed, and continued 
 so during the whole time we were on shore, so that 
 it would be more a matter of chance than any thing 
 else if we saw any animal. 
 
 On the top of a hill, or rather a rising piece of 
 ground, about two miles from where we landed, a 
 pile of loose stones was erected, close by which a 
 quart bottle was left, containing a slip of paper men- 
 tioning as usual the ship's name, and our being oft' 
 this coast on such a day, &c. Whilst the boat was 
 ashore they sounded on board in forty fathoms (mud) ; 
 and, by making a boat fast to the deep sea-line at 
 the time they were sounding, it was found that a 
 current or tide set to the southward (true) at the 
 rate of half a mile per hour. 
 
 Monday t 30///. — The weather being foggy the 
 whole of yesterday, and during the greatest part oi 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 105 
 
 this day, it was impossible to know which w^ay to 
 steer amongst the ice, which, during these two days, 
 has, as far as we could see, surrounded us in every 
 direction. Our chief occupation, therefore, during 
 this period, was sounding ; and by means of a small 
 net, and a dredge that were occasionally fastened to 
 the deep-sea-line, a great variety of small shells and 
 star-fish were brought up from the bottom. About 
 five o'clock this afternoon, however, we found em- 
 ployment more congenial to our wishes, for the 
 weather having at that time cleared up, we cast off 
 from a floe to which we had been fast, and made sail 
 to the westward, round the south end of the island 
 on which we landed two days ago. 
 
 Tuesday y 31st. — We made fast to a floe of ice again 
 last night and remained there until nine o'clock this 
 forenoon, when we cast off and made sail as near as 
 we could judge to the westward. I have said as near 
 as we could judge, for it was impossible to say with 
 certainty which way we went, for the weather was 
 so hazy the whole day that the sun was never seen 
 distinctly ; but we were able, for most part of the 
 time, to distinguish the direction he was in from the 
 brightness of that part of the heavens, and directed 
 our course by it accordingly, for the compasses have 
 for some days past been again quite useless, their 
 north point being invariably directed towards the 
 ship's head in whatever direction it may happen to be 
 in. At night, then, when the sun went down (for he 
 sets now for a short time) and left us as it were without 
 any means of knowing our way, necessity suggested 
 a plan to steer by, which deserves to be remembered, 
 inasmuch as it is one of the best proofs of the truth 
 
406 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 of the old proverb, " that necessity is the motlier of 
 invention," and at the same time shews under 
 what circumstances we were occasionally obliged to 
 prosecute our voyage. The instance in question, 
 then, that occurred as the only means left for us to 
 direct our course by, was to keep the Griper right 
 astern of us ; which was her position when we shaped 
 our course by the last faint view we had of the sun* 
 We sounded frequently during the niglit, and indeed 
 throughout the whole day, as a necessary precaution 
 under the circumstances we were placed in. The 
 greatest depth of water we found during the whole 
 day w^as fifty-two fathoms, and the least twenty-three 
 fathoms (mud and sand). We had ice around us in 
 every direction the whole day, but we never found 
 it so close at any time as to obstruct our passage j 
 and, had it not been for the state of the weather, it 
 is probable that we should have found openings clear 
 of it altogether. We had, in the course of the day, a 
 very good view of the manner in which the floe-ice 
 is formed j for the surface of the water being smooth, 
 the snow that fell upon it formed what is called 
 sludge, which, no doubt, had the weather been a few 
 degrees colder, would have become ice. In those 
 places where there was a considerable portion of open 
 space between tlie larger pieces of ice, the undul- 
 ations of the surface of the water gave this sludge a 
 curious variegated appearance, not unlike the painted 
 imitations of blue and white marble, the sludge form- 
 ing the white, and the surface of the water the blue 
 part of it. 
 
 Ever since we got amongst these low islands, it 
 has been remarked that very few birds, or indeed 
 
TO THE AECTIC REGIONS. 107' 
 
 animals of any kind, have been seen. A 
 few Mallemucks and Seals, I believe, would 
 comprise the whole list. 
 
 Wednesday, September 1st. — Wlien the 
 weather cleared up this morning, we found 
 ourselves within three or four miles of 
 what appeared to be another flat island, 
 apparently of greater extent than any of 
 those we have passed to the eastward. 
 The eastern extreme of it bore at this 
 time N. by W. (true), and the western ex- 
 treme due W. (true). We happened to be 
 sounding at the time it was seen, and, 
 notwithstanding the nature of the land, 
 we found ourselves in forty-five fathoms* 
 water, soft mud. 
 
 We have been running along this land 
 (for it is presuming too much to call it an 
 island), the whole day, and we find that 
 it presents, as fai' as we have yet seen, tlie 
 same appearance as that part of it that we 
 first saw in the morning; that is, low near 
 the coast, and rising gradually towards 
 the interior, but the height of any part of 
 it we have yet seen is very inconsiderable. 
 Its surface is, generally speaking, even, 
 and is, I may almost say, entirely clear 
 of snow, for I saw only one or two small 
 patches of it the whole day j the sea to 
 ■the southward, however, is covered with 
 ice as far as we can see, and along the 
 shore there are pieces of it aground all 
 tihe way that we have come to day, but the 
 
108 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 channel between the land and the ice is sufficiently 
 wide for our purpose, being at an average from two 
 to three leagues in breadth, and the least depth of 
 water that we sounded in to-day was seventeen 
 fathoms, and it was supposed that we were on a bank, 
 for we were at the time about five miles firom the 
 land. I believe that 1 have omitted to mention that 
 no land has been seen to the southward since the 
 24th of last month, all the islands that we have 
 passed since, being to the northward of us. 
 
 The same paucity of animals, as I observed yes- 
 terday, still exists ; a solitary Phalarope was the only 
 bird seen to-day, and one or two seals were all that 
 we saw of the watery inhabitants. 
 
 Thursday y M, — The wind having died away 
 about noon, two boats were sent ashore to make ob- 
 servations, and to afford a party of the officers an 
 opportunity of having an excursion on the land that 
 we have been coasting along during these two days. 
 AVe found it to be inhabited, like the island that we 
 landed on, on Saturday last, with musk-oxen and 
 reindeer : of the latter we saw a couple, but they 
 were so frightened by the sight of a dog that we had 
 with us, that we could not get near them. 
 
 From the immense number of cloven tracks, and 
 the great number of deer and musk-oxen's horns 
 that we met with, it is very clear that this land must 
 be well stocked with these animals ; a great part in- 
 deed of the body and skin of one of the latter animals 
 was found in such a perfect state, that theie was no 
 doubt of its having been killed this summer. The 
 hair was exceedingly long, and as fine as any ^vool j 
 its prevailing colour was black, mixed with a little 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 109 
 
 white hair of the finest texture, and shorter than the 
 other. Several of the skulls and tracks of bears 
 were also found here, so that we may presume that 
 they are likewise inhabitants of this land; and on 
 the top of many of the dry hillocks that we passed, 
 we found numerous burrows, some about the size of 
 rabbit holes, and others much smaller ; the former 
 we supposed to be fox-holes, and the latter of field- 
 mice. That mice are inhabitants of this land is 
 beyond a doubt, for we saw a great many of their 
 skeletons lying about the holes above mentioned. 
 Of the feathered tribe I believe only one species 
 was seen, namely, the Ptarmigan, and of these seve- 
 ral were shot by some of the officers of the Griper ; 
 but whilst we were ashore, several large flocks of • 
 snow-buntings passed the ships, a flock of geese, 
 and another of ducks, were also seen coming off 
 from the land, most probably commencing their mi- 
 gration to a milder climate. 
 
 Along the beach, there were an immense number of 
 small shrimps, and various kinds of shells, the latter 
 indeed we found abundantly scattered about every 
 where as far inland as we went, being, no doubt, as I 
 have already observed, carried there by birds, or 
 some quadruped that feeds on the animals they con- 
 tain. The soil of this land is much superior to any 
 that we have yet seen in these regions ; along the 
 shore indeed, and for a little distance inland, it con- 
 sists only of fine sand, but, beyond this, the surface 
 is covered with black mould, wliich, in a temperate 
 climate, I have no doubt would be very productive, 
 for even here, in the valleys and places where there 
 was any moisture, it produced grass of considerable 
 
HO A VOYAGE OF i)isC6VERY 
 
 length, and the finest moss in abundance. At this 
 time, however, the soil was so much dried up, that 
 the greatest part of the vegetation was in a state df 
 decay. 
 
 My description of this land to the eastward, ren- 
 ders it unnecessary to say any more about it, for the 
 formation of it where we landed to-day, agrees 
 exactly with that described yesterday. Of its mi* 
 nerals, little, or, I may say, nothing, can be said, for 
 rocks, or even loose stones, of any size, were rarely 
 to be seen. On the tops of the hills and places where 
 nothing grew, the surface was covered with small 
 pieces of a greenish friable stone, that crumbled 
 easily by the pressure of the hand. A few small 
 pieces of quartz, clay, slate, and limestone, were also 
 occasionally met with ; but, as I have already said, 
 not in sufficient abundance to be considered as 
 forming a constituent part of the country. 
 
 Several sets of azimuths were taken on shore, but 
 we found that their results taken separately differed 
 in the same manner as those taken at the last 
 place where we landed ; collectively, their mean re- 
 sult gave the variation 149° easterly. The dip. 
 Or vertical inclination of the magnetic needle, Was 
 found to be greater at this place, than at any 
 other, where it has been tried before, being 88° 45'. 
 The latitude of the place where these observations 
 were made, was 74° 58' N. and longitude by chro- 
 nometer 107° W. We had much pleasure to-day 
 again, in finding that the flood-tide comes from the 
 westward ; it was ebbing when we landed, and it was? 
 found that during the five hours we were on shore, it 
 ■only fell about four feet, so that we may conclude 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. IIlI 
 
 that the rise and fall of the tides at this place are very 
 inconsiderable. If we were to judge, however, of 
 their rise and fall from another circumstance that was 
 observed, we should be apt to draw a very different 
 conclusion : the circumstance I allude to, is the ske- 
 leton of a whale, and some pieces of fir-wood, that 
 were found at the distance of betw^een two and three 
 hundred yards from the beach, and which were sup- 
 posed to have been washed up there by the sea. That 
 the wood had been carried hither by the sea, is I think 
 beyond a doubt* ; and as to the bones of the whale, 
 it is very obvious from whence they came. The only 
 way then in which I can reconcile this fact, with the 
 rise and fall of the tide, is by supposing that, in the 
 spring, when the ice breaks up, pieces of it may be 
 driven up considerably beyond the tide-mark, by the 
 Violent shock, or pressure of one floe being driven 
 upon another by the wind, &c., consequently, what- 
 ever happens to be lying on the beach will, of course, 
 be forced inland by the ice. That floes do force 
 smaller pieces of ice on shore in this manner, when 
 they happen to come with velocity against the land, 
 is a fact that I have no hesitation in affirming to be 
 true, from the many instances that I have seen of ice 
 aground where we knew it could not have been floated 
 by the tide. I am not disposed, however, to assert 
 that this is the way in which the bones and pieces of 
 wood in question, were carried to the place where they 
 were found ; I have only suggested that they might 
 possibly be driven there by the above means. 
 
 * The pieces of wood in question bore indeed evident marks 
 of their having been brought here by the sea, for they were 
 bruised into thin laminae, and fibres, by the pressure of the ice. 
 
JV2 A VOYAGE 01 DISCOVERY 
 
 Friday, 3d. — We were coasting along the land 
 again to-day, but the wind being very light we made 
 but little progress ; our longitude in the afternoon by 
 chronometer was only 108°. We have the satisfaction 
 however of finding that want of wind is our only ob- 
 stacle, for the sea is quite clear along the land. 
 
 Saturday y 4fth. — At seven o'clock this afternoon, 
 we accomplished the first portion of the discovery of 
 the north-west passage, deemed by the British go- 
 vernment worthy of reward ! for at that hour we 
 crossed the meridian of 1 10° of longitude, west of 
 Greenwich. The exact time of our crossing it was 
 well ascertained, for we had good sights for the chro- 
 nometers at six o'clock P. M., the mean of which gave 
 longitude 109° 50' W., and the patent log shewed 
 when the other ten miles had been accomplished. 
 The only land in sight at this time was that on which 
 we landed two days ago, and it is somewhat remark- 
 able, that, at this very place, there should be a bold 
 cape, which is indeed the first and only high land 
 that we have seen since we made this coast. The 
 ridge of high land, or mountains, that terminated in 
 this promontory, extended inland as far as we could 
 see. A little to the westward of the above cape, a low 
 projecting point of land juts out to the southward, so 
 as to form between them a sort of open bay. The 
 land to the westward of this assumes again its usual 
 form, namely, low, smooth, or even surfaced, and 
 rising gradually from the coast towards the interior. 
 The sea to the southward is still covered with ice, 
 but there is as usual an open channel between it and 
 the land, as far as we can see to the westward, so that 
 nothing appears to be wanting but a brisk breeze of 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 113 
 
 wind to enable us to get on. I observed this after- 
 noon a notable instance of the restless, or ambitious 
 disposition of the human mind, for I remarked, that 
 for some time past, mostly every person expressed it 
 as the consummation of their wishes, if we could 
 only reach the longitude of 110° W. this season ; but 
 no sooner was this completed, than it was begun to 
 be computed, what time it would take us to reach the 
 longitude of 130° W., or the second place specified 
 by the late Order in Council respecting the north- 
 west passage ; and some are even so sanguine as to 
 consider it very probable, that we shall get that far 
 before the winter sets in. It is not my intention to 
 make any animadversions on the subject, nor did I 
 indeed mention the above circumstance with any 
 other view, than merely, as I have said, to show that, 
 when man is possessed of any object that he may have 
 been in pursuit of, so far from being satisfied there- 
 with, he immediately sees another object, the pos- 
 session of which would, in his opinion, add more to his 
 happiness than that which he has obtained. In the 
 instance in question, however, I think our ambition 
 is a very laudable one ; and however improbable its 
 accomplishment may appear, we certainly ought to 
 live in hopes. 
 
 Sunday y 5th. — I omitted to mention in my 
 diary of yesterday's occurrences, that we passed, 
 early in the morning, a part of the coast where 
 there was an opening in the land which some were 
 disposed to consider as an inlet, or division be- 
 tween the part of the land that we are abreast of 
 at present, and that on which we landed on the 2d 
 instant, or, in other words, that they are two dis- 
 
 I 
 
114 • A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 tinct islands. I am inclined, however, to think, that 
 this is not the case, for in the first place we passed 
 the opening in question at night, so that it was im- 
 possible to say, with any degree of certainty, how far 
 it extended ; and, from the great length of this land, 
 it is but natural to suppose that it has considerable 
 breadth also, and that the opening above mentioned 
 is only a deep bay or inlet that runs into it. After 
 prayers to-day, all hands we called on deck, when 
 Mr. Parry told the ship's company, in an official man- 
 ner, that we had last night passed the meridian of 
 110° west of Greenwich, and by that means became 
 entitled to the reward of 5000/. promised by parlia- 
 ment to the first ship that reached that longitude be- 
 yond the Arctic circle. He took also this opportu- 
 nity of informing them, how highly satisfied he was 
 with their past conduct, and that he had no doubt, by 
 their continuing the same zeal and perseverance they 
 have hitherto shown, but that we shall ultimately 
 accomplish the object of the expedition, and by that 
 means become entitled, not only to the whole of the 
 pecuniary reward, but to the much more lasting 
 honour of being the first discoverers of the north- 
 west passage ; an honour, indeed, which our most 
 illustrious navigators for centuries back sought for in 
 vain. The enthusiasm excited by this short, but pa- 
 thetic speech, was truly astonishing, for the ardour 
 that it inspired might be seen in every countenance ; 
 and I have no doubt whenever an opportunity 
 occurs of showing the impression it made, its good 
 effects will be very evident ; but, to do every officer 
 and man on the expedition justice, I firmly believe 
 they require no stimulus ^o urge them to their duty. 
 In the afternoon we came to a low projecting point 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 115 
 
 of land, from which a ledge of compact ice extended 
 to the southward until ii joined the main body of it. 
 As it would be in vain to attempt to pass through 
 this barrier, we prepared to anchor, and at three 
 o'clock P. M. we came to with the small bower, 
 in eight and a half fathoms' water, at the distance of 
 about three quarters of a mile from the shore. 1 
 think it may be considered a remarkable instance in 
 our voyage, that the first anchor w^e let go since we 
 left England was in the 110° of west longitude.* 
 
 Monday, 6th. — A boat went on shore last even- 
 ing after we anchored with two or three of the of- 
 ficers, who, as usual, erected a pile of loose stones 
 in a conspicuous place ; close by which they buried 
 a quart bottle, containing a slip of paper, on which 
 was written the ships' names, and the rest of the in- 
 formation usually given on these memorials. We 
 landed again this forenoon at the same place, for the 
 double purpose of making observations t, and bring- 
 ing on board a quantity of turf, which was reported 
 by some of those who went ashore last evening to 
 be found here in considerable abundance, and of a 
 quality that promised that it would be found useful 
 as an article of fuel. That which was brought on 
 board, however, does not appear to answer the fa- 
 vourable report made of it ; but from what I can 
 
 * The place where we anchored this afternoon, is, I beheve, to 
 be called Coppermine Roads, in consequence of its being in the 
 same longitude as the mouth of the river of that name, which Mr. 
 Hearne travelled to. 
 
 \ The latitude of the place where we landed to-day was found 
 to be 74-°. 46' 46" N., and longitude, by the chronometers, 110° 5(y 
 W., the variation, by the mean of several azimuths, 127° E., and 
 the dip 88° 30'. 
 
 I ^ 
 
116 A VOYAGE OF UISCOVERY 
 
 learn, those who went for it, had not the good for- 
 tune of falling in with the spot where the best kind 
 of it was seen yesterday. Another article of fuel 
 was found to-day, however, which, if we should have 
 the good luck of finding in a considerable quantity, 
 will be of the most essential benefit to us. The 
 article I allude to is coal, several small pieces of 
 which was found by different persons scattered about 
 on the surface of the ground ; but not in sufficient 
 quantity to be of any other use than as specimens of 
 mineralogy. All the pieces of it that I saw were of 
 a slatey texture, light, and burnt quickly with a clear 
 white flame, and its colour had something of a 
 brownish tinge. The basis of this part of the coast 
 is composed of white sandstone, and the greatest part 
 of the surface of the little peninsula * on which we 
 landed, was also covered with loose fragments of the 
 same material. The vegetable productions at this 
 place were less abundant than where we landed on 
 the 2d instant to the eastward, but our stay on shore 
 was so short, that we saw but little of the country ; 
 but, if we were to judge from the general appearance 
 of the land, we should suppose it to be equally as 
 productive as any other part that we have yet seen 
 of this coast. No quadruped of any kind was seen, 
 but we found traces of the place being frequented 
 by rein-deer, and musk-oxen, for besides their tracks 
 being very numerous, several of their horns and bones 
 were found scattered about. Of the feathered tribe 
 
 * This peninsula was formed by a sort of open bay on one 
 side, and a little inlet or harbour on the other ; one of the boats 
 sounded the mouth of this harbour, and found the greatest depth 
 of water to be only fourteen feet. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 117 
 
 a considerable number were seen, particularly ducks, 
 which were observed in small flocks along the shore, 
 but they were so shy that we could not get within 
 gun-shot of them ; several glaucous gulls, and tern 
 were also seen, and they seemed likewise to keep at 
 a greater distance than usual. A solitary seal, I be- 
 lieve, was the only inhabitant of the sea seen to-day. 
 Tuesday y 'Jth. — We weighed between four and 
 five o'clock yesterday afternoon, but we had not 
 been above four hours under sail when we were 
 obliged to make fast to a floe, the ice being so 
 close in with the land that it was impossible to force 
 through it. We remained in this place until two 
 o'clock this afternoon, at which time the ice being 
 observed to slacken, we cast off from the floe and 
 made sail ; but we had not got on above a few miles, 
 when we found ourselves stopped again by the ice. 
 Our only alternative was, therefore, to secure the ships 
 again to a floe close in with the land, to prevent our 
 drifting to the eastward,for we found the ice, at a 
 little distance from the coast, to be moving in that 
 direction Avith considerable velocity : most probably 
 by the action of the tide. As we were coasting along 
 this afternoon, two herds of musk-oxen were seen 
 grazing at the distance of about three-quarters of a 
 mile from the beach. One herd consisted of nine, 
 and the other of five of these cattle. Our distance 
 from them was too considerable to enable us to have 
 any thing of a good view of them. I shall, therefore, 
 merely observe, that their prevailing colour was 
 black, and as far as we could judge, their size was 
 about equal to that of a Shetland cow. We had also 
 a distant view of two rein-deer this afternoon, so that 
 
 I S 
 
118 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 I am in hopes that we shall be able, before long/ to 
 give a better account of some of them, than the bare 
 statement of a distant sight. 
 
 Wednesday y 8th. — The ice still forms a compact 
 body to the westward, so that it would be vain to 
 attempt to force through it. We found that, during the 
 flood-tide, it drifts, as I mentioned yesterday, to the 
 eastward : we, therefore, in the afternoon, cast off 
 from the floe to which we had been fast, and towed 
 the ships to a hummock of ice that was aground in 
 twelve fathoms* water, at about a quarter of a mile 
 from the shore, where they were secured, to prevent 
 their being carried to the eastward along with the 
 drifting ice. A party of the officers that went on 
 shore to-day killed several grous, and a white hare 
 (^Lepus Variabilis^ Lin.) : a fox, some field-mice, se- 
 veral snow-buntings, were seen, and a large white 
 bird, supposed to be an owl, probably the snowy 
 owl of Pennant and Letham, {Stria: Nyctea, Lin.) 
 Four musk-oxen were also seen to-day before the 
 boats landed, but those who went on shore had not the 
 good fortune of falling in, or even seeing them after 
 they landed. Several pieces of coal were picked up 
 again to-day, and it was found that the same soil, 
 mineral, and vegetable productions, prevail here as at 
 the last place we landed. 
 
 Friday^ 10th. — The wind being these two days 
 past chiefly from the southward and westward, has 
 consequently kept the ice closely packed in with the 
 land, so that we are still obliged to remain in the 
 same place that we liave come to on Wednesday last. 
 As nothing particular has been doing during this 
 period, parties have been away for most part of the 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 119 
 
 time shooting.* Their success hitherto, however, 
 has not been very considerable, for two or three hares . 
 and a few grous are all that have been killed. All 
 the hares are perfectly white, and of a large size ; 
 one of the first of them that was killed weighed eight 
 pounds, which, I believe, is about the average weight 
 of all of them that we have seen since. The plumage 
 of a few of the grous are also entirely white, but 
 generally the backs and coverts of the wings are 
 speckled with rusty yellow and dark spots, but the 
 colour of the under part of the body of all of them 
 is white. They are rather larger than the common 
 partridge, but not quite so heavy as the red grous, 
 or Tetrao Scoticiis of Letham. A musk-ox was seen 
 by some of the men who were on shore yesterday, 
 one of whom fired at him, and, according to his own 
 account, wounded him, but not mortally, for, after 
 spurring or tossing up the ground for a little time, 
 he took to the hills with greater speed than an animal 
 of his shape was supposed capable of going. Al- 
 though we have not yet seen many of these animals, 
 it is very evident that this land must be frequented, 
 if not constantly inhabited, by them in great num- 
 bers : for their bones and horns are found scattered 
 about in all directions, and the greatest part of the 
 carcase of one of them was seen to-day by one of the 
 
 * A party went also to gather coals yesterday, and although it 
 may be said that they were pretty successful when the quantity 
 they collected is compared with what we have usually seen of it, 
 yet I am not inclined to believe that we shall replenish our stock 
 of fuel much in this country, unless we have the good fortune of 
 discovering a bed of coal, for, after some hours' search in the 
 place where it appeared to be most abundant, they only brought 
 on board about half a bushel. 
 
 i4 
 
1^ A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 parties that were on shore. The skulls of two carni- 
 vorous animals have also been picked up here ; one of 
 them is evidently that of a wolf, and the other, which 
 is considerably smaller *, appears to be the skull of 
 some animal of the feline tribe, most probably the 
 amorock of the Greenlander, which is supposed to 
 be an animal of the lynx species. For the descrip- 
 tion that John Sackhouse (the Greenlander that ac- 
 companied us last year) gave of it, appeared to make 
 it an animal of this kind, for, if I am well informed, 
 he described it as being very clear-sighted, and that 
 it bounced with great rapidity on its prey. Notwith- 
 standing the tide has such influence in driving the ice 
 about, we find that its rise and fall is very inconsider- 
 able, for, by a staff planted in the tide-mark on the 
 beach, it appears to be no more than three feet ; its 
 effects on the ice, however, is the same as I have 
 already mentioned, that is, carrying it to the east- 
 ward during the flood-tide, and the ebb-tide in the 
 contrary direction. It has been remarked that the ice 
 we have seen of late appears to swim lighter than that 
 in Baffin's Bay. In order, therefore, to determinewhe- 
 ther there is any real difference in its specific gravity or 
 not, I made a cube t from a piece of the hummock, to 
 which the ships were fast these two days ; and from 
 
 * It is much brooilor, however, in proportion to its size than 
 the wolf's skull ; in its shape it resembled very much the skull of 
 the wild cat, but was considerably larger. 
 
 f The sides of this cube measured one foot three inches and a 
 half, and when floating in the sea alongside the hummock of ice 
 from which it was made, two inches and three quarters of it re- 
 mained above the surface of the water. The temperature of the 
 water at the time was 31°. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. l^ 
 
 the result of the experiment it appears, that it is spe- 
 cifically lighter than any ice that we have ever sub- 
 mitted to a similar trial before ; there being about 
 one-fifth of it above the surface of the water ; where- 
 as, in the former experiments of the same kind that 
 were made at different times, we generally found that 
 one-seventh was about the proportion of the ice 
 above, to that below the surface of the water. 
 
 Saturday, 11th. — One of the parties that were on 
 shore to-day shot a musk-ox, but he was so far from 
 the ships that they could not bring him on board. I 
 shall therefore forbear saying any thing respecting 
 him in this place, as we shall most probably have him 
 on board to-morrow, and then a particular descrip- 
 tion will be given of him. I may observe, however, 
 in the meantime, that a stake of him brought on 
 board, was found to be much more palatable than we 
 had reason to expect, from the accounts given of the 
 rankness, or musky taste of their flesh. The speci- 
 men that we have had of it to-day, however, is per^ 
 haps not sufficient to enable us to say much for or 
 against the matter; but I am in hopes that v/e shall 
 soon be able to speak with certainty on the subject, 
 for a herd of seven or eight of them were seen by 
 another party that were on shore to-day, but the 
 weather becoming rather thick, they were deterred 
 from following them. I may remark, indeed, in this 
 place, that the weather has within these two or three 
 days past assumed a very wintery aspect, for the sky 
 is almost constantly cloudy, the wind is much 
 sharper than usual j and whenever we have a calm, 
 as has been the case for most part of this day, there 
 is always a little snow falling. In fact, every thing 
 
122 A* VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 tends to indicate the approach of winter ; at night, in 
 particular, when the sun goes down, it is impossible 
 to avoid reflecting on the nearness of that period that 
 will inevitably arrest our progress for this season. It 
 is possible, indeed, and 1 hope probable too, that if 
 we once got through the ice with which we have of 
 late been hampered, that we may get on a few de- 
 grees yet before the winter sets in ; but certainly the 
 advanced period of the season, and our experience 
 of these seas, does not encourage us to be too sanguine 
 of doing much more this year. 
 
 Sunday, 12th. — A good deal of anxiety prevailed 
 to-day for the safety of a party of six men and an 
 officer (the master) belonging to the Griper, who 
 went away about four o'clock on Friday morning, 
 with a view of travelling fifteen or twenty miles in- 
 land, for the purpose of ascertaining the nature of 
 the country, and to see whether reindeer, or musk- 
 oxen were more numerous towards the interior than 
 •along the sea-coast. It w^as desirable also to know 
 how far this land extended to the northward ; but, 
 as it was not intended that they should be away more 
 than a day, they took only provisions enough with 
 them to last that period. They have now, however, 
 been away upwards of double that time, which be- 
 gins to cause some uneasiness respecting them, more 
 especially as the weather since yesterday afternoon, 
 has been very unfavourable for them, being hazy, 
 and snowing almost constantly during the whole 
 time. In order to direct them, poles, with flags on 
 them, have been set up on the top of the highest hills 
 in the neighbourhood to-day, and to each of these 
 poles a bottle was fastened, containing directions how 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 123 
 
 to find their way to the next post, and ultimately, to 
 the ships. At two of the larger poles (on one of 
 which an ensign, and on the other an union-jack 
 were hoisted) provisions were also left for them ; and, 
 after dusk, a large fire was lighted on the top of one 
 of the most conspicuous hills near the coast; and, 
 on the top of a pole erected at the same place, was 
 fastened a lanthorn, which, from its elevated situa- 
 tion, must be seen at a considerable distance. Lights 
 are also hoisted at the ship's mast-heads, guns are 
 fired, and rockets set off at regular intervals ; in fact, 
 every thing has been done, and still is doing, that 
 can be deemed likely to be of any service in directing 
 the party in question to the ships. 
 
 Monday i 13th. — Arrangements having been made 
 last night, four parties started at day-light this 
 morning in different directions, in hopes of falling in 
 with the unfortunate people above-mentioned, for 
 such we had to-day every reason to consider them ; 
 for the length of time they had been absent, the 
 inclement state of the weather during these two days 
 past, and the inadequate manner in which they were 
 provided to withstand it and hunger together, were 
 certainly sufficient reasons to put every person in a 
 state of anxiety, if not apprehension, for their safety. 
 In the afternoon, however, we were relieved from 
 this state of inquietude by the appearance of one of 
 our parties returning with four of them. From them 
 we learned that the other three could not be far dis- 
 tant, because they only parted with them yesterday ; 
 moreover, the officer who went with the party is one 
 of the three that are now missing, and from knowing, 
 him to be an intelligent man, every person felt 
 
124 A VOYAGE OF DlJiCOVERV 
 
 satisfied that they would soon make their appearance 
 also ; and before dark we had tlie satisfaction to find 
 our expectations fulfilled. The feet of most of them 
 are very much frost-bitten, and they are all very 
 much fatigued, but I have no doubt, from the proper 
 manner in which they were managed on first com- 
 ing on board, but that they will all in a short time get 
 perfectly well. With regard to food, it appears that 
 they were by no means badly off, for they managed to 
 .kill as many grous as they could eat. It appears that 
 they lost their way the second day, or rather the night 
 of the first day, they went away j consequently, very 
 little information can be gathered from them as to 
 where they had been during the rest of the time. 
 They seem to think that they were never above 
 twenty, or at most five-and-twenty, miles inland. 
 They found the country, after travelling fifteen or 
 twenty miles from the coast, to be much more fer- 
 tile than in the neighbourhood of the sea; thevallies 
 and level plains in particular they describe as abound- 
 ing with grass and moss. On these plains they saw 
 several herds of reindeer, and two animals of the deer 
 kind, but much larger than the reindeer ; they sup- 
 posed them to be the elk, and their description of 
 them seems to answer to that which we have of these 
 animals. They saw also a number of hares inland, 
 but no musk-oxen. Some of those, however, who 
 have been in search of the stray party during these 
 two days past, saw some herds of these cattle. In 
 the course of their wandering, they fell in with a 
 small lake of fresh water, in which they found fish, 
 two of which they brought on board were found to 
 be a species of trout. As it was after they lost their 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 12p 
 
 way they fell in with this lake, they of course cannot 
 say what direction it is in, or how far it is off: they 
 describe it to be about two miles in length and one 
 in breadth. Before I conclude my account of the 
 mixed feelings and occurrences of this day, I cannot 
 help mentioning an event that took place, which, al- 
 though of no great moment in itself, yet, owing to- 
 the time that it happened, we could not avoid feeling 
 it as an additional misfortune at the time. The event 
 in question is an accident that happened to one of 
 the seamen (named William Lancaster), who was in- 
 advertently coming up the ship's side with a pot of 
 water off the ice, when one of the guns was fired to 
 direct the parties on shore, by which he got his face, 
 breast, and right arm very severely scorched with the 
 powder. 
 
 Tuesday, 14>th, — It may be considered a very for- 
 tunate circumstance that the stray party returned 
 yesterday, for had they been outlast night, it is more 
 than probable that they would not have outlived it ; 
 for it came on to blow very fresh after sunset, and 
 the thermometer at three o'clock in the morning fell 
 as low as 9°, and the average temperature ever since 
 has been no more than 15°, so that we may very 
 reasonably conclude that people exhausted in the way 
 in which they were would have very little chance of 
 withstanding the rigour of such weather for any 
 length of time. 
 
 Wednesday y \5th. — The weather being clear to- 
 day gave us an opportunity of ascertaining the geo- 
 graphical situation of this place. The latitude was 
 found to be 74° 27'N., and longitude, by chronometer, 
 lis** ir W. It is, perhaps, proper to remark, that 
 
1^6 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 these observations may be a little out, as the altitudes 
 were taken with the natural horizon, which was co- 
 vered with ice. The error thereby occasioned cannot 
 amount, however, to any thing very considerable in 
 the latitude, but I conceive it best to mention under 
 what circumstances observations are taken, when 
 there is any chance of their being doubtful. 
 
 Thursday, iQth. — We had the pleasure of finding 
 this morning that the strong north-west wind that we 
 have had during these two days past has forced the 
 ice off from the land for a little distance; no time 
 was lost, therefore, in availing ourselves of this op- 
 portunity of getting on ; but our success was not of 
 long duration, for, after getting between eighteen and 
 twenty miles to the westward, we were stopped again 
 by the ice, which extended in a compact body from 
 the land to the southward and westward as far as we 
 could see. It was very heavy ice, but it was broken 
 up so much that we could not get a piece large 
 enough to make the ships fast to ; and the water was 
 found to be so deep, that it was not deemed prudent 
 to anchor so close in with the shore as it would be 
 necessary to do ; we, therefore, stood back to the 
 eastward again, and at half past eight o'clock we 
 made fast to a hummock of ice aground in fifteen 
 fathoms* water, about seven or eight miles to the 
 westward of the place which we started from in the 
 morning. After passing a headland four or five 
 miles to the westward of where we made fast this 
 evening, we found that the land trended to the north- 
 ward and westward, and that its formation beyond 
 this cape is also quite different from any part of this 
 coast to the eastward, being more like the land on 
 
TO THE ARCTIC RliGIONS^ 127 
 
 the north side of the passage between the 86° and 
 92° of west longitude, that is, bold, and in some 
 places precipitous, and the debris that fell from it 
 forming buttresses in the same manner as on the coast 
 alluded to. 
 
 Friday^ I'^th, — We cast off again this morning, 
 and stood to the westward until we came to the ice 
 which we found to be nearly in the same situation 
 where we were stopped by it yesterday. It was ob- 
 served to be much heavier than what we have gene- 
 rally met with before, being somewhat like that 
 which they describe the Greenland ice to be ; so that 
 I think it is most probable, that it is not formed here, 
 but drifts down from higher latitudes, or what may 
 be termed the Polar Sea. 
 
 It was packed equally as close in with the land as 
 we found it to be yesterday, so that it would be vain 
 to attempt to force through it ; besides, the land, as I 
 have already said, trends to the northward, a circum- 
 stance which may be regarded as rather against us ; 
 for were it possible even to get on between the land 
 and the ice, as we have usually done, it would in the 
 present instance only take us out of our way. 
 
 We know so little, however, of what is before us, 
 that it is perhaps hazarding too much, to say that a 
 change in the direction of the coast is to be consi- 
 dered at once as an unfavourable circumstance. I 
 shall therefore not dwell any longer on the subject, 
 as we shall most probably have an opportunity very 
 soon of determining the point in question in a more 
 satisfactory manner than by conjectures. Alter 
 tacking about for some time along the edge of the ice, 
 we stood again to the eastward, and at six o'clock in 
 
128 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 the afternoon made fast to a hummock of ice aground 
 about a cable's length from the shore, and nearly in 
 the same place that we started from in the morning. 
 We had not been fast above two hours when it was 
 observed that the ice was closing in upon us; to 
 avoid therefore getting jammed between it and the 
 land, we cast off again, and kept sailing about during 
 the remainder of the night, wherever we could find 
 clear water. 
 
 Saturday f 18th. — It froze so hard during the 
 night, that at six o'clock this morning the ships were 
 regularly beset in the bay-ice : we tried to send the 
 boats to a piece of ice aground near the shore, with 
 a hawser to make the ship fast to it, but it was found 
 that the young ice was already too strong for them 
 to get through it. We were therefore obliged to let 
 go an anchor in thirty-nine fathoms' water, to prevent 
 our being carried to the westward (amongst the 
 heavy ice) by a strong tide or current that was set- 
 ting in that direction. It now appeared, from the 
 effects of last night, and indeed from the state of the 
 weather for this week past, that the winter has at 
 length fairly set in, and that, unless some strenuous 
 exertions are made, we are likely to get beset 
 here for the winter, and as far as appearances go, 
 we could not be caught in a less desirable place, for 
 it is a completely exposed coast, without a bay, or 
 even a projection of any kind in the land to afford 
 the least shelter. 
 
 After duly considering all these circumstances, 
 then, it will be seen that further attempts to prose- 
 cute the voyage any further this season, would be 
 endangering the safety of the ships, and that too 
 
 1.5 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 129 
 
 without the prospect of any benefit. We therefore 
 got under weigh between nine and ten o'clock in the 
 forenoon ; and very much against our incHnation, 
 although to all clearly necessary, we stood to the 
 eastward, in hopes of being able to reacli the harbour, 
 that we passed on the sixth instant, before the ice got 
 too strong to force through it. From noon until six 
 o'clock in the evening, we were favoured with a fine 
 breeze from the southward and westward, so that we 
 got back a considerable distance ; but no sooner had 
 the wind become light than our progress was stopped 
 by the bay-ice, notwithstanding every effort was made 
 to force through by breaking it up with capstan bars, 
 blocks of wood, and by rolling a boat amongst it 
 under the ship's bows. At the very time that our 
 progress was thus arrested, the necessity of getting 
 on became more evident than ever, for a large floe 
 was observed to be moving to the westward with 
 considerable velocity, and at the same time closing 
 in with the land, from which we were not distant 
 above a quarter of a mile. Our situation was there- 
 fore a very precarious one indeed, but as it was impos- 
 sible to avoid the danger that threatened us, we let 
 go an anchor in ten fathoms of water, after being 
 driven within less than a cable's length of the shore. 
 Here we awaited with great anxiety the approach of 
 the floe, for although we were driven towards the 
 shore by it, we were not actually in contact with the 
 floe itself, but were carried along with the bay-ice 
 that it impelled towards the land. Close to where 
 we anchored there happened, very fortunately for us, 
 to be a large hummock, or rather a pile of heavy 
 pieces of ice aground, so that when the floe arrived, 
 
 K 
 
130 A VOYAGK Ol- DISCOVERY 
 
 this pile received the shock of it, and the collision 
 was certainly tremendous ; for immense masses of the 
 floe were broken off, and piled up on the top of what 
 was already aground, from which most of them fell, 
 or slided back again on the floe, and this operation 
 continued for some time, until at length the force of 
 the floe, which was at first going at the rate of two 
 miles per hour, was ahuost entirely spent. It is un- 
 necessary to observe, that had the ships been caught 
 between the floe and the hummock just mentioned, 
 that their destruction would have been inevitable. 
 
 Sunday y 19th. — Although we escaped last night 
 without sustaining any damage, the Griper was not 
 quite so fortunate, for she lost an anchor and the best 
 part of a chain cable, by the edge of the floe touching 
 it ♦ as it passed. The boat that they had under the 
 bows breaking the bay-ice was also carried away by 
 the floe. But these are trifling losses when we 
 consider what mischief might have happened had not 
 the pile of ice before mentioned fended off the violent 
 pressure of the floe ; for had the ships received the 
 shock, I have little doubt but it would have forced 
 them up on the beach ; and had we indeed been only 
 but a few yards nearer the outer extremity of the 
 heap of ice in question, the consequences might have 
 been equally destructive. Nothing occurred to-day 
 worthy of notice, the ice being closely packed all 
 around us, we had no other clioice but to remain 
 still in the same place where we brought up last 
 night. 
 
 Monday, 20th, — Between four and five o'clock in 
 
 • I have understood since that the cable was not carried away, 
 but unshackled in order to get clear of the ice. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 131 
 
 the morning, the ice was again observed to be 
 moving to the westward ; every necessary precaution 
 was immediately taken, to secure the ships in such a 
 manner as to be protected as much as possible, by 
 the hummock or pile of ice so often mentioned, the 
 measures adopted had the desired effect with us ; 
 but the Griper was again less fortunate, for about 
 half past eight o'clock the edge of one of the floes 
 that were passing at the time having come against 
 her, she was forced in a few minutes aground on the 
 beach ; fortunately, however, it happened to be low 
 water at the time, so that when the tide flowed, she 
 got off without sustaining any damage. But her 
 situation for some time was certainly critical, for 
 when she heeled over, there were only six feet water 
 on that side next the shore, but the beach happened 
 very luckily to consist of sand, so that no injury was 
 occasioned by it. 
 
 The wind being from the northward and eastward, 
 and blowing pretty fresh all day, has cleared the 
 immediate neighbourhood of the coast of ice, so that 
 I am in hopes that the first slant of fair wind that we 
 have will enable us to get on. Every day, indeed, 
 tends to show the necessity of getting on as quickly 
 as possible to some place of security, for the weather 
 of late has been, I may almost say, constantly cold, 
 and boisterous ; and the drift snow that comes off 
 from the land, gives the whole scene a dreary aspect. 
 A musk ox was seen last night going along the 
 beach, and two or three covies of grous have been 
 seen at different times from the ships ; but at present 
 something of greater moment than going after them, 
 employs every one's attention. 
 
 K 2 
 
132 A VOYAGi: OF DISCOVERY 
 
 Wednesday y 22g?. — It blew very strong from the 
 northward all yesterday, so that it was not deemed 
 prudent to get under weigh, more especially as the 
 ice was observed to be moving about with greater 
 velocity than usual, owing no doubt to the force of 
 tlie wind. Early this morning, however, the wind 
 moderated a little, and at the same time veered 
 round to the northward and westward. Of this 
 favourable change we took immediate advantage, 
 and at five o'clock was under weigh, in order to make 
 the best of our way to the eastward. We suffered very 
 little interruption from the heavy ice, but our progress 
 was so mucli obstructed by the young, or bay-ice, that 
 had we not been favoured with a strong breeze of 
 wind, it would have been impossible to force through 
 it. We had a good opportunity to-day of seeing the 
 effects of the frost, in forming ice on the surface of 
 the sea, at a time even when there was a strong 
 wind, and consequently a considerable ripple on the 
 water, circumstances which by some men have been 
 considered capable of preventing the formation of 
 ice. But I think from what we have seen to-day, 
 that we may very reasonably conclude, that when 
 the cold is very intense, ice may be formed on the 
 surface of the sea, even in a gale of wind ; for the 
 thermometer to-day was never below I7*, and yet 
 ice was, as I have already said, forming very rapidly. 
 It may be said indeed, that there was so small a 
 portion of the surface of the water clear of old ice, 
 that there could not be much of a sea running, and 
 such was certainly the case ; but I observed that the 
 young ice, or sludge as it is first called, smoothed the 
 surface of the water immediately it began to form, in 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 133 
 
 the same manner as oil does when poured on a 
 turbulent sea. It appears to me then, that ice may 
 by formed in an open sea, even in the most boisterous 
 weather, provided the temperature is as low, as we 
 have reason to expect it to be, in these regions in the 
 winter ; there may be also another requisite, which 
 is, that the water should be, as in these seas, not very 
 deep. 
 
 But as future experience may enable us to speak 
 with more certainty on this subject, I shall avoid 
 saying any thing more about it at present. And to 
 finish my account of the occurrences of the day, I 
 have only to add, that between seven and eight 
 o'clock in the evening we brought to, about two 
 miles to the eastward of the place, where we let go 
 the first anchor, on the 5th instant. 
 
 Thursday^ ^Sd, — We got under weigh this morn- 
 ing, and ran in within three-quarters of a mile of the 
 entrance of Coppermine Harbour, where we anchored 
 again about noon, in hopes that when the boat which 
 was then away sounding, would return, that we 
 should immediately prepare to get into the harbour. 
 But when they came on board, we learnt that the 
 greatest depth of w^ater at the entrance of it is 
 fourteen feet, which is less than either of the ships 
 draw. Between two and three miles to the westward 
 of it, however, they found another harbour, or rather 
 a small bay, which is in some measure secured to sea- 
 ward, by a reef of rocks that runs in a slanting direc- 
 tion, across part of the entrance of it, in such 
 a manner as to prevent any large floes of ice from 
 being driven into it. It is not, perhaps, a place that 
 
 K 3 
 
l^^ A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 we should choose * for our winter-quarters, had we 
 time to look about for a better ; but under present 
 circumstances we may consider ourselves fortunate, 
 in finding that there is such a good harbour within 
 our power to reach, for the winter is making rapid 
 strides. There is, indeed, very little of the surface 
 of the sea now that is not covered with ice, and close 
 in to the land it is already from four to six inches 
 thick, all along the coast, so that we shall have to 
 saw our way into the harbour. The people who 
 were away sounding to-day, saw several seals, which 
 are the only animals of any kind that have been seen 
 during these two days past. 
 
 Friday, 2i4h. — We got under weigh early this 
 morning, and ran to the westward to the mouth of the 
 harbour intended for our winter residence, where we 
 anchored about eight o'clock. Immediately after 
 breakfast the crews of both ships commenced sawing 
 a channel into the harbour, in which operation they 
 were pretty successful, having before six o'clock 
 P.M., sawed a canal thirty -five feet in breadth, and up- 
 wards of half a mile long, into whicli the ships were 
 tracked in the evening. The thickness of the ice 
 through which they sawed to-day, was from seven to 
 eight inches. It is intended to resume the same 
 operation to-morrow, for the harbour is at least three 
 miles in length ; and I understand that the inten- 
 tion is to get within about half a mile of the top of 
 it; for it has been sounded that far to-day, and it has 
 
 * After getting into this harbour, and after having had time to 
 examine it more minutely, we found it to be as secure a place to 
 winter in as we could wish for, as will be seen hereafter. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 135 
 
 been found that there is plenty of water for us even 
 within a cable's length of the shore. 
 
 We found on the ice, close to w^iere they were 
 cutting the canal to-day, a dead swan (^Anas Cygnus^ 
 Lin.), which is the first and only bird of the kind 
 that we have seen in these regions. It was in a very 
 perfect state, and must have necessarily lain here 
 but a short time, for there was no ice here less than 
 three weeks ago, when we passed this place going to 
 tlie westward. 
 
 Saturday^ ^5tJi. — All hands were employed again 
 to-day cutting the canal through the ice, and instead 
 of hauling the pieces that they cut out, into the open 
 sea, as they did yesterday, they forced them under 
 the floe, which was found to be a much more expe- 
 ditious way of getting rid of them, than floating 
 them out of the canal. But in speaking of an open 
 sea, I must observe, that according to the strict 
 meaning of the word, there is no such thing now 
 existing within our view ; for the place where the 
 ships lay yesterday morning, and, indeed, the whole 
 of the sheet of clear water that lay outside of them, 
 is now covered with ice of last night's formation ; 
 and that on the canal was so strong this evening as 
 to bear the weight of a person. In consideration of 
 the hard labour that the men have had for these two 
 days past, an extra-allowance of Donkin's preserved 
 meat has been served out to them each day. 
 
 Sunday f Q6th, — From seeing the rapid increase 
 in the thickness of the ice, and consequently the 
 additional labour that must be incurred by any de- 
 lay, it has been deemed proper to employ all hands 
 again to-day, in cutting the canal, in which work 
 
 K 4 
 
136 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 they have now become so expert, by these two or 
 three days* experience, that notwitlistanding the 
 increased thickness of the ice, they have cut 
 through more * of it to-day than either of the pre- 
 ceding days, and that too in less time. For at a 
 quarter past three o'clock in the afternoon, the ships 
 were warped to the top of the canal, when the men, 
 in the usual way in which British seamen express 
 their joy, gave three hearty cheers, as a proof of the 
 pleasure they felt at having in safety reached their 
 winter-quarters, after having performed, on every 
 occasion, all that was possible for men to do ; and, 
 what is more, after having accomplished infinitely 
 more than any numerous adventurous seamen who 
 have been employed (at different times for upwards 
 of two centuries past), in search of the same object. 
 In concluding my account of the operations of this 
 season, it is certainly a tribute due to every officer 
 and man on the Expedition, to say, that they always 
 evinced the utmost zeal for the service on which we 
 are employed ; and I do not think that it can be 
 considered that we hold what we have done in too 
 high an estimation, if we say that our zeal and per- 
 severance have been rewarded with ample success ; 
 nor can it be said that our hopes are too sanguine, if 
 
 * After they had done cutting the canal to-day, its length was 
 measured,- when it was found that they had cut the 
 1st day 1200 yards, 
 2d — 1284 do. 
 3d — 1598 do. 
 
 Total 4082 do. 
 making the whole length of the canal equal to 2} miles nearly. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 137 
 
 we flatter ourselves with the expectation of being 
 equally successful next season. 
 
 However, as we are likely to have time enough to 
 speculate on this subject, before we leave this place, 
 it is unnecessary to say any more about the matter 
 at present; I shall therefore conclude my narrative 
 of the operations of this season, by briefly stating 
 the few remaining occurrences of this day. In the 
 first place then, I have to remark, that in speaking 
 of this place in future, it will be always called 
 Winter HarbouVy which is the name that it is hence- 
 forth to be known by. I may say of this harbour, 
 as I have just said about our future prospects, that as 
 we are to be here for a considerable time, it is unne- 
 cessary to enter into a lengthened detail respecting it 
 at present, as we shall be able to give a better ac- 
 count of it, and its neighbourhood, before we leave 
 it, than we can give at this time. It may not be im- 
 proper, however, to observe, that as far as we are 
 able to judge, it appears to be a place as well adapted 
 in every way, for wintering in, as any that we could 
 find in these regions, allowing that we had a whole 
 arctic summer to do nothing else but look for a har- 
 bour ; for its mouth, or entrance, is, as I have al- 
 ready remarked, partly guarded from the violence of 
 the sea by a reef of rocks, over which there is, in 
 some places, not above one fathom of water j and 
 between this reef and the land, there is for most 
 part of the way, a bar, or bank, over which we 
 found, in some places, only 3J fathoms water ; and 
 where the ships are, although nearly at the top of 
 the harbour, and within eighty-one fathoms of the 
 beach, we have five fathoms water, which is the 
 
138 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 more remarkable, since the shore, and, indeed, the 
 whole of the land around the harbour, and its 
 vicinity, is low. This country has now a very bleak 
 appearance, for the whole of the surface of the land 
 is covered with a thin layer of snow ; and in the val- 
 lies, and those places where vegetation was most 
 abundant, it is in some parts of considerable depth. 
 Notwithstanding the best pasture is in this manner 
 already covered over, we have the satisfaction of 
 finding that the reindeer have not yet left this neigh- 
 bourhood, for two very large ones were seen this fore- 
 noon at a short distance from the ships. The nature 
 of the land is certainly not favourable for approaching 
 these timid animals unperceived ; but still I am in 
 hopes that we shall succeed in kilUng some of them. 
 Two covies of grous were also seen to-day, so that 
 it is to be expected that we shall be able to procure 
 some of them also. 
 
 Thursday, 30th. — The people have been employed 
 for these four days past unrigging the ships, and tak- 
 ing the boats, yards, masts, and rigging* ashore, 
 where they are to remain all winter, under a shade 
 that is to be erected for them. The lower masts and 
 rigging are not to be touched, and I believe that our 
 main-top-mast is not to be removed, in order that 
 parties that may be away shooting, may see the 
 direction the ships are in, at a greater distance than 
 they would otherwise do. Of this indeed, I have 
 already seen the advantage, for I could see the mast- 
 head to-day when several miles into the country, and 
 
 * Our anvil was lost the other day by breaking through the ice 
 whilst they were taking it on shore. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 139 
 
 as the sun gets lower, its utility as a distinguishing 
 mark will be more perceptible. The weather, for 
 these three or four days past, has, considering the 
 time of the year, been tolerably fine, and the 
 mean temperature has not been much lower than 
 we have had it for a week before ; but we find that 
 the degree of cold indicated by the thermometer, 
 and that conveyed by our feelings, are widely 
 different, for whenever there is a breeze of wind 
 we find that it is much more disagreeable to walk 
 about, when the thermometer is at twenty degrees 
 above zero, than at zero itself in a calm. I do not 
 mean to say, however, that this is any new dis- 
 covery, on the contrary, I am aware that the same 
 thing may be felt and observed, in any other 
 climate as well as here ; but I have for some time 
 past observed another fact, which, for ought I am 
 aware of, may be also equally well known, but 
 which certainly never struck me so forcibly before. 
 It is this, that whenever the wind increases in 
 strength, the thermometer rises, and vice versa ; 
 however, as we shall have many opportunities of 
 observing the extent of this rule, or connection 
 between the wind and temperature, I shall defer 
 saying any thing more about it at present. The 
 canal is now froze so firmly from one end to the 
 other, that we can just only distinguish where it 
 was, so that the ships are now as firmly fixed, as if 
 they were a component part of the floe itself. In 
 case, however, that the ice may break up by any 
 unforeseen cause, anchors have been set in the 
 beach, to which a cable is fast from each ship's 
 larboard bow, and another from their quarter. 
 
140 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 Another reindeer was seen this afternoon, which 
 we immediately went after, and owing to the 
 weather being thick at the time, we managed to 
 surround him, and by that means got so near him, 
 that he was at length shot. He was perfectly 
 white, except one brown patch on the top of his 
 rump ; the carcase w^eighed, w^hen skinned and 
 cleaned, 147 pounds. 
 
 Friday^ October 1st. — Another deer was killed 
 to-day. A beautiful white bear was also seen to- 
 day, but we were unsuccessful in our attack upon 
 him, notwithstanding he approached so near to the 
 ships, that we fired at him from them. Several 
 shot struck him, however, in different parts of the 
 body, as we could plainly perceive from the 
 streams of blood that gushed from the wounds ; 
 but before we could re-load, he was out of gun- 
 shot range from the ships. A large party of the 
 officers and men immediately pursued him*, in 
 expectation from the quantity of blood that issued 
 from his wounds, that he would soon fall, or at 
 least become so much exhausted that they would 
 soon come up with him ; in both these expect- 
 ations, however, they found themselves disap- 
 pointed, for the cold, in a short time, stopped the 
 effusion of blood, and as none of the wounds 
 happened to be in a mortal part, he succeeded in 
 keeping out of gunshot distance from them. They 
 supposed, however, that they would have ulti- 
 
 * All our dogs went after him also, but none of them would 
 go very near him ; for if they bad, I have no doubt but he would 
 soon make them suffer for their temerity. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 141 
 
 mately come up with him, had they not been 
 stopped from pursuing him by his swimming across 
 a lane of open water that separated the sea-ice 
 from that attached to the land. After getting out 
 of the water on the opposite side of this channel, 
 he was observed to be again of a perfectly white 
 colour ; but before he had been many minutes on 
 the ice, his coat was changed again to the same 
 crimson hue as before, so that it is probable, that 
 although he escaped from his pursuers, that he 
 will in the end die of the wounds he received. 
 Although we have had evident proofs, from the 
 number of their skulls that we found on this land, 
 that bears are at least occasional visitors of it, yet 
 as we have never seen any of them before to-day, 
 it was supposed that they only came here in the 
 summer time ; persons went, therefore, out walk- 
 ing, not only singly, but often unarmed ; a thing 
 which, I presume, is not likely to happen in 
 future, more especially as the bear seen to-day was 
 first seen by a person, who, as I have just said, was 
 walking out alone. On seeing the animal, he im- 
 mediately returned with all speed to the ships, 
 with the bear after him, which induced many to 
 believe, that the animal was in pursuit of him ; 
 but, I think, it is most probable, that his scent 
 had led him towards the ships, and that he would 
 have come to them whether he had met the person 
 in question or not : but be this as it may, it is 
 certainly best to promulgate the idea, that he 
 followed the man, as it may put others on their 
 guard, not to go too far singly, at least without 
 means of defence. 
 
142 A VOYAGK OF DISCOVKRY 
 
 Wednesday, 6th. — Nothing occurred for some 
 days past worthy of particular notice, except the 
 gradual change in tlie state of the weather, which 
 is getting colder every day : at four this morning, 
 the thermometer was as low as eight degrees below- 
 zero. But we have now got the housing over the 
 ships, so that the increased severity of the weather 
 is not felt in the least on board, nor does it, indeed, 
 put us to any inconvenience in our excursions on 
 shore, except when there is a breeze of wind, 
 which, as I have already remarked, renders the 
 cold less tolerable to our feelings, although it raises 
 the thermometer ; but I may, perhaps, be going 
 too far in saying, that it increases the temper- 
 ature. Probably, a corresponding change taking 
 place in the temperature of the atmosphere 
 whenever a breeze of wind comes on, so many 
 instances of it have now come under our observ- 
 ation, that we already begin to consider it as a 
 general rule. Several deer have been seen during 
 these five or six days past, but we were not fortu- 
 nate enough to kill any of them : to-day, however, 
 one of them, which happened to come close to 
 the ships, was shot from the Griper ; it weighed 
 
 lyolbs. 
 
 Saturday, 9th. — Although the sun has not yet 
 entirely left us, we receive now but little benefit 
 from it, either in the way of heat or light ; for ever 
 since the housing has been put over the ships, we 
 have been obliged to use candles the whole day, or 
 properly speaking, as long as our allowance of 
 these necessary articles last, which, I am sorry to 
 say, is very inadequate, being only one candle 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 143 
 
 (ten of which go to the lb.) every six days, to each 
 officer, or a little more than an inch of candle 
 a-day. When it is considered, then, that we are to 
 be about three months deprived entirely of the 
 light of the sun, and at least three months more 
 deriving little or no benefit from it on board, I 
 hope it will appear to every person, that I have not 
 unnecessarily expressed regret at our not being 
 more amply supplied with the useful article of 
 candles. It is but just to observe, however, that 
 as we have a light in the gun-room the whole day, 
 no person has any occasion to complain of want of 
 light, even if he was disposed to do so ; but so far 
 from that being the case, I have every reason to 
 believe that every officer on board would cheer* 
 fully submit to any privation that might be deemed 
 necessary for the good of the public service ; and 
 I have no doubt, should we ever happen to be 
 situated under such circumstances as to put our 
 zeal or endurance to the test, but my prognostica- 
 tion will be verified. 
 
 Sunday, 10th. — Seven deer were seen to-day, 
 one of which we killed, and another was severely 
 wounded, but, owing to the night coming on, he 
 got away, after being pursued for several miles. 
 The ardour with which he was followed very nearly 
 led the party that went after him into a serious pre- 
 dicament, for they were so loath to give up the 
 chace, that, before they thought of returning, the 
 day was so far spent that they lost their way 
 coming back. Two of them returned about six 
 o'clock, in so exhausted a state, and so much 
 affected by the cold, that we began to entertain 
 
144 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 serious apprehensions for the safety of the two re- 
 maining persons of the party who were yet absent. 
 As it was now. evident, from the report of those 
 that returned, that the others lost their way, we 
 commenced immediately to fire guns, set off 
 rockets, and burn blue lights, in order to direct 
 them towards the ships. About a quarter past 
 seven one of them returned, but he was in such 
 a state of insensibility, that we could not obtain 
 any correct information from him respecting the 
 other man, any further than that they parted about 
 an hour before he came on board. One of his 
 hands is very much frost-bitten, and he was alto- 
 gether in such a state of pain, stupor, and con- 
 fusion, that his answers to the questions that were 
 put to him were, as I have just said, so incoherent 
 that nothing could be learnt from him. It may 
 easily be conceived, then, that if we were appre- 
 hensive before, we had double reason to be so 
 now ; for even the first two of the party that re- 
 turned were very much exhausted, and, as to the 
 person just mentioned, it is very clear that he 
 could not have held out much longer, for both his 
 body and mind had, as I above described, suffered 
 very considerably from the severity of the weather. 
 Unauspicious, however, as these circumstances 
 were, we had strong hopes that, as the person who 
 last returned had only parted with him who was 
 yet absent, about an hour before, that he could not 
 be far off; and, in order that no means might be left 
 untried that could be deemed likely to direct him 
 towards the ship, poles were set up, with lanthorns 
 on their top, at different places, on the highest parts 
 
 18 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 14-5 
 
 of the land around the harbour, and the firing of 
 guns, setting off rockets, and burning of blue-lights, 
 were continued on board as before. At length 
 our endeavours were crowned with success, for at 
 half past eleven o'clock the stray person returned; 
 and, very much to our pleasure and surprise, had 
 not suffered the least from the cold, notwithstand- 
 ing he had been away upwards of four hours 
 longer than any of the rest 1 
 
 Thursday, I4ith. — A wolf was seen to-day at the 
 distance of about half a mile from the ships ; he was 
 of a white colour, and about the size of the Esqui- 
 maux dogs that we took home last year ; some sup- 
 posed that he was a little higher than them, but as 
 far as I could judge, he was much about the same 
 size, and not unlike them in shape, only that his 
 legs appeared to be somewhat longer than their's. 
 Four rein-deer were also seen to-day, but the wea- 
 ther being pretty clear at the time, we could not 
 get near either them or the wolf unperceived ; as 
 the latter however appeared to be prowling about, 
 as if inclined to keep nigh the ships, a small gun 
 was taken on shore and set as a trap for him, by 
 tying a piece of meat to a line affixed to the trigger, 
 in such a way that an animal laying hold of the 
 meat must inevitably receive the contents of the 
 gun, that is to say, if it goes off; but that is a point, 
 however, on which I am very doubtful, for we find 
 of late that our fowling-pieces very frequently miss 
 fire, from the moisture that freezes on the lock. 
 They furnished the house to-day that has been 
 built for the astronomical clocks, &c. and a shade 
 has been constructed with spars and sails, which 
 
 L 
 
14() A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 covers tlic boats, rigging, and stores that have been 
 landed. * In order to detect any symptoms, or ap- 
 pearance of scurvy amongst the men, their gums 
 were examined this morning, and I understand the 
 same thing is to be done every Thursday, for the 
 future. All hands are also to be mustered at divi- 
 sions, at nine o'clock in the morning, and six in 
 the afternoon every day, in order to see that the 
 men are all clean and sober, two of the most es- 
 sential things for preserving their health ; this also 
 affords an opportunity of examining what state tlieir 
 bed-places are in, which is done whilst they are 
 on deck. 
 
 Friday, 15th. — No less than fifteen deer were 
 seen to-day in one herd, but those who saw them 
 were not so fortunate as to be able to kill any of 
 them, from the reason that I mentioned yesterday, 
 namely, that the persons who saw them could not 
 get their muskets off at the time they were within 
 shot of them. 
 
 Monday, 18th. — Eleven deer were seen yester- 
 day, and upwards of twenty to-day, in one herd; 
 out of those seen to-day we succeeded in killing 
 one, which is much smaller than any of those that 
 we killed before, weighing only a little more than 
 ninety pounds, when skinned and cleaned. I have 
 remarked, that all the deer that we have seen since 
 we came to this harbour, sets off to the westward, 
 when they are pursued, and even when not molested 
 they are observed to be travelling in that direction. 
 
 * Parties have been employed also for some time past cut- 
 ting turf, and bringing it down to the ships for fuel. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 147 
 
 Monday ^ 25th. — Nothing of any importance has 
 occurred for this week past, the weather has been, 
 as might be expected, getting gradually colder, the 
 thermometer has been some days ago as low as 17°, 
 but we have not had any considerable fall of snow 
 yet ; in the vallies, indeed, there is a good deal of 
 drift snow, but the surface of the land, in general, 
 has very little more snow on it than there was when 
 we came into the harbour. Notwithstanding the 
 only part of the land where there was any consi- 
 derable vegetation is now covered with snow, the 
 rein-deer have not yet left it, for several large herds 
 of them have been seen during this week past ; but 
 they all appeared, as I have already remarked, to 
 be on their way to the westward, and whenever we 
 approach them they set off at full speed in that di- 
 rection, so that from this reason, and the uncer- 
 tainty, and even difficulty of managing fire-arms 
 with any dexterity, owing to the coldness of the 
 weather, we have not succeeded in killing any of 
 them. A wolf was seen to-day at a little distance 
 from the ships j he was about the same size, and of 
 the same colour, as the one seen some days ago : 
 the general opinion, is indeed, that it is the same 
 animal. A small white fox was seen also to-day, 
 he seemed not to be quite so wild as the wolf, but 
 imless they are caught in traps, I suspect that we 
 shall find it a difficult matter to get nigh enough 
 either of them to be able to shoot them : in the 
 night time, however, I have no doubt but they come 
 very near the ships, to pick up some of the refuse 
 that is thrown on the ice, so that I am in hopes 
 that we shall entrap some of them before the win- 
 
 L 2 
 
14<S A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 ter is over. I observed this afternoon two vertical 
 columns of prismatic colours, about 15° on each 
 side of the sun ; they were about five degrees in 
 length, their lower end touching the horizon. 
 They preserved the same intensity of colour, for 
 about an hour, that is from noon until one o'clock ; 
 they then began to vanish, and in less than an hour 
 disappeared altogether. The only remaining oc- 
 currence of this day that I have now to mention, 
 is, that a channel about three feet wide was cut 
 all round the ships to-day, in order to take the 
 pressure of the ice oif them*, if such a pressure 
 exists, of which I am myself very doubtful, for I 
 am not aware that ice continues to expand after its 
 formation, therefore if it does not, the ships cannot 
 be pressed by it ; but allowing even that such a 
 pressure existed, 1 am inclined to think that it 
 will be found a difficult matter to keep an open 
 channel round them all the winter. 
 
 Friday^ 99th. — A fox was caught last night in a 
 trap set by the Griper ; he is perfectly white, and 
 is about the same size as the hares that were killed 
 last month ; his long bushy tail, indeed, gives him 
 the appearance of being somewhat larger than 
 them : but as his dimensions will most likely be 
 taken, I shall forbear saying any thing more about 
 his size at present. On being caught he displayed 
 several of the cunning tricks peculiar to his tribe, 
 for when he was taken out of the trap, he shut his 
 eyes, and lay motionless, no doubt with a view of 
 
 * I understand that some cracking that was heard amongst 
 the ice alongside the Griper lately, has given origin to the 
 idea of pressilre existing. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 149 
 
 being taken for dead, so that when those who were 
 around him got careless, he might watch an oppor- 
 tunity of getting off. Such an artifice might, and 
 very probably does, enable these animals to escape 
 from the bears and wolves occasionally j with his 
 present captors, however, his wily tricks have'little 
 chance of affording him an opportunity of effecting 
 his escape. He is not hurt in any way, for he was 
 caught in an empty cask with a slide in one end of 
 it, which fell, and shut him up in it immediately 
 he laid hold of the bait within. It is probable 
 therefore that they will be able to preserve him 
 alive for some time, or at least until his habits are 
 known, which I shall take an opportunity of men- 
 tioning hereafter, should he display any peculi- 
 arities deserving of notice. Very few deer have 
 been seen for some days past, so that I am afraid, 
 that we shall not be able to lay in such a good winter 
 stock of these animals as was at first expected, for 
 the daylight now lasts but a very short time, so 
 that it would be dangerous to go any distance from 
 the ships : there has been an order, indeed, issued 
 some time ago, prohibiting any person from going 
 out of sight of the ships.* Besides, the state of 
 the weather now is not very favourable for long 
 excursions, for the thermometer this evening was 
 as low as 28° below zero, and we have generally a 
 breeze of wind, which, as I have already remarked 
 two or three times, renders the cold less tolerable 
 to our feelings. We find that the wind is almost 
 
 * But if I am not mistaken, this order was issued in con- 
 sequence of what happened on the 10th instant, and with a 
 view of preventing a recurrence of the same in future. 
 
 L 3 
 
150 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 invariably from the northward ; but, contrary to 
 what might be expected, we do not find that it is 
 any colder than that from any other direction, nor 
 does the thermometer even indicate any particular 
 difierence in this respect, for it is affected only by 
 the force, and not by the direction of the wind. 
 Columns of prismatic colours, similar to those de- 
 scribed on the 25th inst., have been observed again 
 two or three times since that day, at the same dis- 
 tance firom the sun, of the same altitude, and in- 
 deed in every other way resembling those before- 
 mentioned. The Aurora Borealis was seen also 
 two nights ago to the southward, but it was too 
 faint to deserve any description. 
 
 Tuesday , November ^2d. — The weather has been 
 milder during these two or three days past, than 
 we have had it for some time before, for the ther- 
 mometer has been for most part of the time at 
 zero, which we now consider a high temperature ; 
 the sky during most part of the above period has 
 been overcast, which may be the reason of the 
 comparative mildness of the weather. We have 
 not had any considerable fall of snow yet, but, I 
 suspect, that during the hazy weather that we have 
 lately had, some fell, although scarcely perceptible 
 at the time, owing to its being in such small parti- 
 cles, and so dry that the lightest breeze of wind 
 drifts it along, so that it is impossible to say whe- 
 ther the accumulation of it in some places is owing 
 entirely to the drift, or is partly increased by new- 
 fallen snow ; I think it is probable, however, that 
 the latter cause contributes in some measure to 
 augment the local collections of it that we find to 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 151 
 
 be daily accumulating in the vallies and ravines in 
 oui- neighbourhood. The man (John Pearson, 
 marine), belonging to the Griper, whom I men- 
 tioned, on the 10th instant, as having returned in 
 a state of stupor and very much frost-bitten, has 
 had this afternoon the four fingers of his left hand 
 amputed, in consequence of the frost-bite that he 
 received at that time. He has not lost the whole 
 of the above fingers, but only the extreme pha- 
 langes, and part of the second of the three largest 
 of them, and the two extreme and part of the 
 third phalanx of the little finger. It is unneces- 
 sary to observe that every means was used at the 
 time the man came on board, and, indeed, for 
 several days afterwards, to restore life in the parts 
 that were frost-bitten ; and, considerable as the loss 
 has been, it is but just to observe, that the treat- 
 ment pursued has been productive of greater suc- 
 cess than could at first have been expected, for 
 the whole hand appeared at first to be in imminent 
 danger, for when he came on board it was as hard 
 as a piece of marble. 
 
 As the ships are now housed and secured, and 
 the days getting so short that neither officers nor 
 men can amuse or employ themselves by excur- 
 sions to the country, two intended sources of 
 amusement are about to be set on foot for the 
 purpose of making the long approaching winter 
 pass as cheerfully as possible. One of the sources 
 in question which is a weekly newspaper, called 
 " The Winter Chronicle, or New Georgia Ga- 
 zette," has already commenced, for the first num- 
 ber of it came out yesterday morning j and the 
 
 L 4 
 
152 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 other object for amusement are Plays, for which 
 they are now preparing. Of the last of these in- 
 tended sources of amusement, I have no doubt 
 but it will answer its end, that is, of diverting the 
 men j but of the first I am not quite so certain of 
 its answering its purpose so well, for 1 have seen 
 one or two instances, and have heard of many 
 more, where newspapers on board of ship, instead 
 of affording general amusement, and promoting 
 friendship and a good understanding amongst 
 officers, tended in a short time to destroy both : 
 for although the professed object and intention at 
 first may be to afford entertainment and convey 
 knowledge, yet for lack of materials to answer the 
 expectations excited, jokes and reflections upon 
 one another will at length be admitted to fill the 
 columns : these will, by some, be taken in good 
 part, and by others in a contrary way j conse- 
 quently those who consider themselves offended 
 will retaliate, perhaps, in less courteous language, 
 on those whom they consider their annoy ers'; until 
 at length the paper, instead of being the source 
 of amusement and instruction, becomes the vehicle 
 of sarcasms and bitter reflections. And should 
 the conductor, or conductors of the paper have 
 discretion enough to refuse admitting into their 
 columns productions of this nature, yet they can- 
 not repress the sentiments or opinions of the par- 
 ties concerned, who, to make the matter worse, 
 generally know one another; for, to be an ano- 
 nymous writer on board of ship is but a thin veil 
 to prevent a person from being known, for peoples' 
 talents and turn of mind are soon discovered. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 155 
 
 when situated as people necessarily are, confined 
 together at sea. Although I have thus far entered 
 into a detail of what I have seen and heard of 
 newspapers written on board of ship, it must not 
 be understood that I am by any means inimical, 
 or even augur any ill consequences from the 
 " Winter Chronicle ;" on the contrary, there is 
 reason to hope, from the character of the person 
 who is to conduct it, that it will afford amuse- 
 ment, and perhaps useful instruction ; at all events, 
 I presume, that such is the intention of it at 
 present. 
 
 Thursday y 4>th. — This being the last day that 
 the sun was above our horizon this season, accord- 
 ing to its declination taken from the Nautical 
 Almanac, several of us went to the top of one of 
 the adjacent hills to have a parting look at him ; 
 but the w^eather at noon being cloudy, nothing 
 could be seen of the parting luminary but a faint 
 light in the direction he was in. 
 
 Friday y 5th. — The officers performed this even- 
 ing the farce called " Miss in her Teens," to the 
 great amusement of the ships' companies ; and con- 
 sidering the local difficulties and disadvantages 
 under which the comedians laboured, their first 
 essay did them infinite credit. Some of them, in- 
 deed, I believe had appeared on the stage before, 
 but the majority of them never wore the sock or 
 buskin, before this evening. The theatre was 
 opened by a very appropriate address, spoken, and 
 written purposely for the occasion, by Mr. Wake- 
 ham ; and two songs, the composition of the same 
 gentleman, were sung between the actsj so that by 
 
154 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVEIIY 
 
 the united exertions of all those concerned, two 
 hours were spent very happily on the quarter-deck, 
 notwithstanding the thermometer outside the ship 
 stood at zero, and within as low as the freezing 
 point, except close to the stoves, where it was a 
 few degrees higher. 
 
 Monday y Sth. — The weather was very clear to- 
 day, so that we had several hours' twilight, nearly 
 as clear as if the sun had been above the horizon 
 in hazy weather. At noon, indeed, the svm must 
 have been very near the horizon, by refraction, for 
 the sky over it was very beautifully illuminated, 
 of a bright reddish colour, which vanished gradu- 
 ally in its intensity towards the zenith. An ex- 
 periment was made to-day on a piece of ice, simi- 
 lar to that which was performed at Petersburg at 
 the marriage of the late Emperor of Russia. — I 
 allude to the ice-guns that were used on that oc- 
 casion. That which we made, however, hardly 
 deserved to be called a gun, at least when com- 
 pared with those in question, for the block of ice 
 that was used was only about three feet long, two 
 feet broad, and a foot and a half in thickness ; and 
 the bore, which was made with a two-inch augur, 
 was about two feet in length ; it was loaded with 
 three ounces of powder, but when fired, instead 
 of going off' like the Russian ice-guns, it burst 
 into a thousand fragments. Ice formed on salt- 
 water is, from its porosity, very little calculated 
 for an experiment of this sort ; and if it were in- 
 tended to withstand the shock of the explosion, 
 the mass, I i)resume, ougiit to be larger than that 
 \yhich we used. It was, liowever, the thickest 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 1,5.5 
 
 that we can as yet procure; but if there was any 
 object in repeating the experiment, I have no doubt 
 but we shall soon be able to get heavier ice ; for 
 that formed on the channel round the ship since 
 Saturday, for it was not cut yesterday on account 
 of its being Sunday, was found to-day to be eight 
 inches thick. 
 
 Wednesday, IJth. — Nothing of any importance 
 occurred for this week past, except that the wea- 
 ther has been getting gradually colder : yesterday 
 it was as low as 42° below zero, consequently our 
 mercurial thermometers are now of no use. The 
 severity of the weather, however, does not con- 
 fine the wolves to their dens, for their tracks are 
 observed every day, at no great distance from the 
 ships ; and one of them was bold enough to-day 
 to chace one of our dogs very close to the ships, or 
 rather he followed the dog until that animal took 
 refuge under the protection of the persons with 
 whom he was walking at the time. The wolf, on 
 this occasion, betrayed a considerable degree of 
 cunning, in order to circumvent his intended prey, 
 for he never moved whilst the dog was running to- 
 wards him ; but immediately he observed that- the 
 dog would not approach any nearer, he made to- 
 wards him with full speed ; and probably, had the 
 dog had a great way to run, he would have overtaken 
 him. At the same time that the wolf in question 
 was chasing the dog, another animal of the same 
 kind was heard howling at a little distance off, but 
 the twilight at the time was so faint that he could 
 not be seen. In the evening; one of them came 
 within seventy or eighty yards of the ship, and 
 
156 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 kept walking about within that distance for a con- 
 siderable time, howKng at short intervals during 
 the whole time. Their howl is long, and some- 
 what lamentable to the ear ; the only sound with 
 which I could compare it, is the cadence, or ter- 
 minating sound of a bugle-horn at a distance. 
 What attracted them so much to-day we supposed 
 to be the smell of some of the narwhal's blubber, 
 that we killed in the summer, which we were 
 boil in 2C on the ice this forenoon. Between three 
 and four o'clock this afternoon, a remarkable 
 cloud was observed in the south-west : the centre 
 of it, indeed, bore S. W. by S. (true). It diverged 
 from a centre, at the horizon, in strait lines, or 
 columns, which extended to a great distance over 
 tlie surface of the sky : the lower edge of it, on 
 each side, was very straight and well defined; and 
 formed an angle of about 45° with the horizon. 
 Directly over its centre, instead of straight lines, 
 it had more the appearance of an immense volume 
 of smoke than any thing else. The whole was 
 compared by our gunner to a powder-magazine in 
 a state of explosion ; which those who had an op- 
 portunity of seeing such a sight, thought a very 
 apt comparison ; for the reflected rays of the sun, 
 which illumined that part of the sky behind the 
 cloud, gave it very much the appearance of an 
 immense explosion. It is probable that this re- 
 markable cloud had some connection with the 
 Aurora Boreal is ; for, after it had vanished, which 
 took place about six o'clock, that phenomenon was 
 seen in the same part of the heavens that the 
 cloud occupied : it made its appearance, indeed. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 157 
 
 before the cloud disappeared entirely, but not 
 before it had lost its radiated form, and dispersed 
 so much that nothing particular could be seen 
 about it. 
 
 Tuesday, Q3d. — The weather, for this week 
 past, has been very boisterous, during most part 
 of the time; within these two days, in particular, 
 it blew so strong that there has been no communi- 
 cation between the two ships, although they are 
 only about eighty yards from one another, on ac- 
 count of the clouds of drift snow that are carried 
 along by the wind. I have already remarked so 
 often the effect the wind has in raising the tempe- 
 rature of the atmosphere, that it will perhaps be 
 considered tautology to notice the same thing 
 again : allowing even this to be the case, I cannot 
 help observing in this place, however, that the 
 same thing occurred, on this occasion, in a more 
 striking manner than I have ever observed it be- 
 fore ; for, on the evening of the 19th inst., the 
 wind, from light airs, died away to a perfect calm ; 
 and, as the wind diminished, the thermometer con- 
 tinued to fall, and at midnight was as low as 47°. 
 During the whole of the succeeding day the wind 
 was never stronger than what is termed a light 
 breeze ; and the consequence was, that the ther- 
 mometer never fell below 40°; but on the 21st it 
 came on to blow strong, and has continued to do 
 so ever since ; and the effect has been, that the 
 thermometer from that day, at noon, until this time, 
 has never been above 25°, notwithstanding the 
 wind, during the whole time, has been from the 
 northward. Severe as the weather has been dur- 
 
J .58 A VOYAGK OF DISCOVERY 
 
 iiig these few days past, the wolves still continue 
 to prowl about, for they are often heard howling 
 at night in the neighbourhood of the ships : I have 
 said at night, perhaps, improperly, for ever since 
 the sun left us, and until it returns, it may be 
 said to be one continued night ; but, as it is most 
 convenient to distinguish the different parts of the 
 twenty-four hours, according to the way in which 
 we have been accustomed to do, I shall stillmake 
 use of the common distinctive words, of morning, 
 noon, evening, and night, in the same manner as 
 if these distinctions were apparent in nature ; and 
 I may remark, that it is not more incongruous to 
 continue these appellations now, than making use 
 of them in the summer time, or when the sun is 
 never below the horizon. 
 
 Wednesday, Q4fth. — Another play was perform- 
 ed by the officers this evening, which amused the 
 people very much, and, I believe, that it is in- 
 tended to perform one every fortnight during the 
 winter, if the weather does not get so cold as to 
 prevent it. The weather has of late, indeed, been 
 very severe, but when there is no wind, we can 
 take exercise in the open air without any incon- 
 venience, although the thermometer is generally 
 between 40° and 50° below zero. A person can- 
 not, however, make much use of his hands in the 
 manner in which they are obliged to be covered, 
 to prevent being frost-bitten : they have, therefore, 
 left off cutting the ice round the ships, having 
 found that it was impossible to continue that 
 operation with safety to the men ; two or three 
 of them indeed, got their toes slightly frost-bitten, 
 
 14 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 159 
 
 during the last days they were employed at it. 
 We have the satisfaction to find, however, that the 
 discontinuation of cutting the channel above men- 
 tioned, has not yet been, nor do I think it is likely 
 to be productive of any bad consequences ; on the 
 contrary, there is reason to expect, that the snow 
 which is accumulating round tlie ships will be of 
 considerable benefit to us, in the way of keeping 
 them warm, and in order to do this more effec- 
 tually, they have banked the snow up against 
 their sides all round, except at one place, where a 
 hole is to be kept open in the ice in case of fire. 
 
 Monday, Q9th. — A very interesting and curious 
 fact was observed this evening, which tends to 
 subvert a point that I believe has hitherto been 
 received as a general law, which is, that mercury 
 does not freeze in a higher temperature than 39 or 
 40 degrees below zero. The instance in question 
 is simply thus, that the mercury used by some of 
 the officers this evening as an artificial horizon 
 whilst taking lunar observations, was found, after 
 being four hours exposed in the open air at the 
 temperature of 36 degrees below zero, to have 
 frozen into a solid mass. The novelty of the thing 
 immediately excited attention, and in order to be 
 perfectly satisfied that the temperature of the 
 atmosphere was not lower than what was indi- 
 cated by the thermometer used for registering the 
 temperature on board, another thermometer was 
 tried, and it only fell also to 36°. The only way 
 in which I can account for this strange deviation 
 from the general law, is, that the mercury had be- 
 
IGO A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 come amalgamated vvitli the lead, of which the 
 artificial troughs generally used are made. * 
 
 Tuesday^ SOth. — The same thing was observed 
 again this evening with regard to the mercury, for 
 it became solid at the temperature (by a spirit 
 thermometer) of 36° below zero. I do not men- 
 tion this, however, as a matter of surprise, for it 
 was the same mercury that was used last night, 
 consequently it ought of course to freeze again at 
 the same temperature. 
 
 Wednesday^ December 1st. — Between seven and 
 eight o'clock this evening, four Paraselense, or 
 mock moons, were observed, each at the distance 
 of about 21 J° from the moon. One of them was 
 situated close to the horizon, and another perpen- 
 dicularly above it; the other two were one on 
 each side of the moon, in a line parallel with the 
 horizon. Their shape was somewhat like that of 
 a comet, but incomparably larger, having their 
 tails on that side farthest from the moon ; their 
 colour was slightly prismatic, the side of them 
 that was nearest the moon being of a light orange 
 colour, which vanished gradually into a yellow 
 towards their tail. 
 
 Shortly after they were seen, a halo, or lumi- 
 nous ring, having the moon for its centre, made its 
 appearance ; the radius of this ring was equal to 
 the distance between the Paraselenae and the 
 
 * That some impurity in the mercury is the cause of its 
 freezing at such a low temperature is obvious, I think, from this 
 circumstance, namely, that the mercury in the mercurial ther- 
 mometer did not freeze even at 38°, for the temperature of 
 the air was registered by it until it exceeded that cold. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 161 
 
 moon, consequently it passed through them. At 
 the same time that the ring appeared, two yellow- 
 ish coloured lines joined the opposite Paraselenae, 
 and bisected each other at the centre of the circle, 
 thereby dividing it into four equal quarters. These 
 lines, or columns, as well as the halo, or ring, and 
 the Paraselenag, or mock moons, were at different 
 times of different degrees of brightness ; and above 
 the halo, that is, between it and the zenith, there 
 appeared occasionally a segment of another halo, 
 which touched the upper edge of that above de- 
 scribed, or rather the Paraselene that occupied 
 that part of it. These phenomena, if I may so 
 call them, continued for upwards of an hour, and 
 during that period frequently varied, as I have 
 already said, in the intensity of their colours, but 
 every part preserved invariably the same shape, 
 although at times, some parts, particularly the 
 upper segment and the cross that divided the 
 halo, became so faint as scarcely to be visible. 
 
 Thursday y 2d. — A Halo, with Paraselenae, and 
 a cross similar to that above described, were seen 
 again this evening, nearly about the same time. 
 It is unnecessary to enter again into a detail of 
 their appearances, as the above description an- 
 swers in every respect to that seen to-night. 
 
 JVednesdai/t 8th. — Nothing occurred for this 
 week past deserving of any particular notice ; the 
 weather has, to our surprise, been much milder 
 than we had reason to expect from the month of 
 November, for the thermometer, since the begin- 
 ning of this month, has seldom been lower than 
 •30°, and the average cold has not been greater 
 
 M 
 
162 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 than 20° below zero. What little wind we have 
 had has been generally from the northward ; but 
 I do not mean to imply from this, however, that it 
 has been more so this month than the last ; on the 
 contrary, I believe the reverse would be nearer 
 the truth, for it was almost invariably from the 
 northward during the month of November. I 
 omitted to mention, at the time it happened, 
 which was a few nights ago, that the fox caught 
 by the Griper has made his escape, by the chain 
 with which he was made fast getting loose. He 
 was seen next morning close to the ships, and the 
 mark of the chain has been seen on the snow, at 
 no great distance off, several times since; but I 
 think it is probable, unless he is again entrapped, 
 that he will soon fall a prey to the wolves, for he 
 must be so much encumbered with the chain that 
 he has carried off with him, that he will not be 
 able to escape from them should he be pursued, 
 and it must also be a great hindrance to him in 
 the way of procuring his food. * 
 
 At the time he was caught, I said very little 
 respecting him, any farther than merely a few 
 words, stating his size, and general appearance, in 
 hopes that I should, as I remarked at the time, be 
 able to give a better description of him at some 
 future period, when his habits, &c. would be 
 
 * We have reason to suppose that mice constitute the 
 principal part of their food, for we have seen several of these 
 animals during the winter, and their tracks are very numerous 
 on the snow. They are perfectly white, and are rather larger 
 than the common mice. Their shape indeed is quite different, for 
 they are short, thick, and flatfish, and their tail is not above 
 half an inch in lonjitli. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. l63 
 
 better known. I must confess, however, that even 
 now, I can add but very little to what has been 
 said of him at the time he was taken. He became 
 daily more domesticated, and was latterly so tame, 
 that a person might handle him with great free- 
 dom, without running any danger of being bitten ; 
 he ate any kind of food that was offered him, but 
 what he chiefly subsisted on was bread and peas. 
 
 Sunday 19th. — These ten days past have been 
 as barren of events worthy of notice as any period 
 of equal length since the commencement of the 
 winter, for all nature appears, if I may use the 
 expression, as if she had gone to rest, for darkness 
 has spread her sable mantle over all the surround- 
 ing scene ; and the occasional bowlings of the 
 wolves, and the whistling of the wind, are the only 
 two objects that interrupt the perpetual silence 
 that reigns over these dreary regions. The plays, 
 however, and such other sources of amusement as 
 are within our reach, have hitherto made the time 
 pass very cheerfully, and I hope that they will 
 continue to do so. 
 
 Tuesday, 2lsL — This being our shortest day, 
 or, more properly speaking, the day on which the 
 sun is farthest from us, several of the officers went 
 out on the ice at noon with books to determine 
 whether it was possible to read by the twilight, 
 and, surprising as it may appear, yet we found 
 that the smallest print could be read by it. The 
 book that I took was a small (pocket) Common 
 Prayer-Book, (which was the smallest print I could 
 find,) and, by facing it towards the south, I could 
 read it very distinctly. As the portion of it that: 
 
 M 2 
 
lijii A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 presented itself by chance on this occasion con- 
 tains a good moral lesson, I hope it will not be 
 considered an idle or impious thing to quote 
 the sentence that happened to be the subject of 
 experiment. It was the first verse of the forty- 
 sixth Psalm : God is our hope and strength : a very 
 present help in trouble. In addition to what has 
 been said, I ought also to mention that the wea- 
 ther at the time was rather cloudy, so that very 
 few stars could be seen, and the moon's declin- 
 ation was about 15^^° S., consequently below the 
 horizon ; therefore the twilight was the only source 
 from which we could receive any light at the time. 
 My object in being so minute in detailing this cir- 
 cumstance is simply to give an idea of the degree 
 or quantity of light that we still receive from the 
 sun. It must not be understood, therefore, that I 
 mentioned it as any thing extraordinary or unex- 
 pected ; for even if such were my design, I should 
 be only exposing my own ignorance, since it is 
 known to every person that the twilight does not 
 cease until the sun is eighteen degrees below the 
 horizon, or passed the imaginary line called the 
 crepusculum. 
 
 I have omitted to mention until this time, that, 
 ever since we came into this harbour we have used 
 no other water except that which is obtained by 
 the melting of snow 5 and yet we have not found 
 any of those bad effects from it that are mentioned 
 by Captain James in his disastrous voyage in search 
 of the north-west passage in the year 1631 ; for 
 he says, that the snow-water made himself and 
 his people so short-breathed that they coidd hardly 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 166 
 
 Speak. His own words are, *' It made us so short- 
 " breathed that we were scarce able to speak." 
 What Captain James attributed to the snow-water 
 was most probably one of the incipient symptoms 
 of scurvy, or some other complaint, brought on by 
 the cold and comfortless situation in which they 
 passed the winter in Hudson Bay. I ought per- 
 haps to defer, however, saying any thing on this 
 subject until we have passed the winter ourselves, 
 in case we should be so unfortunate as to find out 
 that his report was true ; but until then I shall 
 have some doubt whether snow-water does produce 
 that effect. 
 
 Thursday y ^3d. — The officers performed the 
 play called " The Mayor of Garratt" this even- 
 ing, and after it a piece wrote purposely for the 
 occasion, by Mr. Parry, called the " North- West 
 " Passage, or the Voyage Finished." I believe the 
 object of this piece was to point out to the men 
 the probability that there is of our accomplishing 
 the discovery of the north-west passage, and the re- 
 wards and honours that will be heaped upon all on 
 returning home, after performing such an extraor- 
 dinary service. And, as far as I was able to judge, 
 it appeared to answer remarkably well the pur- 
 pose it was intended for. The thermometer in the 
 open air at the time of the performance was at 
 32", and on deck, even where the people were 
 sitting, it was as low as 19° during the whole time j 
 but the pleasure they derived from seeing a scene 
 exhibiting their own character in so favourable a 
 point of view, completely overcame any incon- 
 
 M 3 
 
166 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 venieiice they may have suffered from the state of 
 the weather. 
 
 Although it may perhaps to some appear a fri- 
 volous anecdote what I am about to mention, yet 
 I cannot help noticing it, as it tends to show the 
 favourable reception with which the dramatic piece 
 in question was received, and at the same time 
 exhibits in a very noted manner the misapplication 
 of words by men who make use of terms or ex- 
 pressions which they do not thoroughly under- 
 stand themselves. Whilst the curtain was down 
 between the first and second acts, all the men were 
 conversing together, extolling the merits of the 
 new play, when the boatswain, wishing to pay a 
 higher compliment to it than any other person, said 
 that it was much superior to fine or excellent (the 
 epithets of approbation used by the seamen) j 
 that it was ** in fact, real philosophy !'* 
 
 Saturday^ ^5th. — Notwithstanding our seques- 
 tered situation, and the climate in which we are 
 situated, we spent Christmas-day as happily as we 
 could do in England, with the exception of being 
 amongst our friends. Indeed, the only thing that 
 could give us any concern, was their not knowing 
 that we are so comfortable. As far as meat and 
 drink were concerned in making us comfortable, 
 we had certainly every reason to be so, for we 
 afred most sumptuously, had excellent roast beef 
 and venison, and plenty of good port wine, and 
 above all, good health to enjoy these luxuries.* 
 
 ♦ The weather to-day was what we are now accustomed to 
 call mild, the thermometer being only 24° ; a temperature in 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. l67 
 
 Saturday J January \st, 1820. — The new year 
 ushered in without any remarkable event to dis'- 
 tinguish it particularly : the cold has not, as we ex- 
 pected, been at all severe; for the thermometer 
 at midnight last (that is at the moment of the 
 commencement of the year J was only 5°. About 1 1 
 o'clock this forenoon a very beautiful halo, 45° in 
 diameter, was observed round the moon. It was in- 
 tersected by two luminous columns of a yellowish 
 white colour, which crossed each other at right an- 
 gles over the moon's disc. The breadth of this cross, 
 or rather the columns that formed it, were equal to 
 the moon's diameter, in her immediate vicinity; 
 but, as they receded from her, they became nar- 
 rower, so that at the place where they touched the 
 halo, they had tapered to such a small point that 
 they were scarcely visible. In those points of the 
 halo, where they terminated, were luminous spots, 
 or paraselenae : the two horizontal ones, or those 
 situated in that part of the circle where the hori- 
 zontal column of light ended, exhibited in the 
 prismatic colours very beautifully, and each of 
 them had a long tail proceeding from them, sunilar 
 to that which I described on a former occasion, 
 when mentioning the appearance of a phenomenon 
 of the same kind. The luminous spot, or parase- 
 lene, in that part of the halo immediately above the 
 moon, was of a very faint colour, when compared 
 with the two just mentioned, and the fourth one. 
 
 a calm day such as this was, is not at all inconvenient. I had, 
 indeed, as pleasant a walk to-day, for upwards of an hour, as if 
 it had been in Hyde Park. 
 
 M 4 
 
I(i8 A VOYAGE OF DJSCOVKUV 
 
 that is to say, it' it existed, was hid from us, owing 
 to its being (as well as a segment of the halo) below^ 
 the horizon, the moon's altitude being only about 
 18°. The halo itself was not equally bright all 
 round, for in those parts that were equidistant, that 
 is 45° from the paraselenae, it was of a very faint 
 colour, and from these points towards the paraselenae 
 it became gradually brighter. Like the Aurora Bo- 
 realis, its intervention did not obstruct the light of 
 the stars that it chanced to pass over, for the planet 
 Mars happened to be situated in the brightest part 
 of the horizontal luminous column, and yet it ap- 
 peared as bright as usual; its reddish colour seemed, 
 indeed, to be a little increased in its brilliancy. This 
 halo, as well as that described last month, happened 
 about the time of full moon. A hole was cut 
 through the ice to-day, to ascertain the thickness 
 of it, which was found to be four feet one inch, 
 exclusive of the snow that was on it. 
 
 Sunday^ '2d. — Another halo was seen about the 
 moon this forenoon, similar in every respect to that 
 described yesterday, except that there was a seg- 
 ment of another halo touching its upper side. 
 The colour of this segment was much lighter than 
 that of the halo itself. The moon's altitude at the 
 time the halo was seen, was 17°> consequently a 
 segment of it was, as I mentioned yesterday, below 
 the horizon. 
 
 Thursday, Qth. — The officers performed the 
 farce called " Bon Ton" this evening, in a lower 
 temperature than perhaps any thing of the kind had 
 ever been done before, at least by Europeans ; for 
 a thermometer, hung up in front of the stage, stood 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. l69 
 
 at 12°, and some parts of the theatre, if I may use 
 that word, must have been considerably colder, 
 for the stoves and hot shot with which it was 
 warmed, was much nearer the place where the 
 thermometer hung up, than the after-part of the 
 deck where the people sat. The thermometer 
 outside the ship at the time was only 27° ; but 
 there happened to be a fresh breeze of wind, a 
 circumstance that rendered the cold, as I have 
 often observed, less tolerable when the tempera- 
 ture is comparatively high, than we find it in the 
 severest frost during calm weather. 
 
 Wednesday^ 12th. — A very noted instance of 
 this occurred indeed to-day, for I was out walking 
 this afternoon when the thermometer was 5V be- 
 low zero, and, owing to the weather being calm at 
 the time, I felt no more inconvenience from it 
 than if it had been at zero in a breeze of wind. A 
 small quantity of strong brandy was exposed in the 
 open air this afternoon for the purpose of experi- 
 ment. It had not been above ten minutes on deck 
 when it began to congeal, and in the course of half 
 an hour it became of the consistence of honey, 
 and not unlike it indeed in appearance. It never 
 became harder than this, although left on deck for 
 upwards of an hour ; it was tried again in the 
 evening, and after being exposed about an hour 
 longer to the same temperature, we found the only 
 difference it produced was, that it became dryer, 
 being in consistence and appearance somewhat like 
 brown moist sugar. The freezing did not appear 
 to alter either its taste, or strength, in the least ; 
 we tasted it in its frozen state, without suffering 
 
170 A VOYAGE or DISCOVERY 
 
 any inconvenience from it, except a little smarting 
 of the tongue. 
 
 Saturday^ 15 tk. — Between seven and eight 
 o'clock this evening, the Aurora Borealis was seen 
 forming a beautiful arch, coincident with the plane 
 of the meridian, and extending from the southern 
 horizon, across the zenith to the northern horizon. 
 After remaining stationary and of this shape for 
 about ten minutes, it then formed an ellipsis of 
 great extent, whose transverse diameter was also 
 parallel with the plane of the meridian, and situated 
 on the east side of it, and in such a position that 
 the west side of the ellipsis reached the zenith. It 
 remained of this form only a few minutes, and 
 then assumed a variety of shapes, which were con- 
 stantly varying, being chiefly shooting in streams 
 from the southern horizon towards the zenith. 
 
 Wednesday^ 19th. — One of our dogs had a 
 severe fight with a wolf this morning, at the dis- 
 tance of between two and three hundred yards 
 from the ships ; it was so early in the morning, 
 however, that they were not seen at the time, but 
 in the course of the forenoon, the place where the 
 conflict happened, was soon, and indeed easily 
 found out, from the blood and tufts of hair left on 
 the snow. It is impossible to say which of them 
 was beat : I think, indeed, that they parted by 
 mutual consent, for both of them must have 
 suffered considerably : what the dog has sustained 
 there is certainly no question about it, for we have 
 seen the extent of the damage, which is a severe 
 laceration of the integuments of the lower jaw and 
 fore-part of the throat : there appears, indeed, to be 
 
 13 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. I7I 
 
 a piece taken out of that part of the neck over the 
 root of the tongue. Although we have not actually 
 seen the wounds that the wolf received, yet there 
 are two or three circumstances which lead us to 
 suppose, that he suffered at least as much as the 
 dog : for, in the first place, the dog is a very 
 powerful one, and certainly much superior in point 
 of strength to the wolf ; and, in the next place, we 
 found a considerable quantity of blood at a place, 
 where the latter animal had lain down, about a 
 mile from the ships, from which we may conclude 
 that he had received some serious wounds, since 
 the blood was not staunched after having gone that 
 distance in such weather as this. We were some- 
 what at loss at first, when the dog came on board, 
 to know what animal he had been fighting with, 
 for we had no reason to think that it had been with 
 a wolf, since a dog belonging to one of the officers 
 of the Griper has been seen frequently with a wolf, 
 that has been in the habit of coming within sight 
 of the ships for several days past ; indeed, the dog 
 in question had been away the greatest part of last 
 night and this morning, as we suppose, with a wolf. 
 The only way therefore in which I can account for 
 the favourable reception with which one dog has 
 been received, whilst another has been so roughly 
 used, is thus : that the latter may have fallen in 
 with a male wolf, at the same time that the former 
 may have been paying his court to the female ; 
 besides, the Griper's dog is mostly of the same 
 colour as the wolves themselves, and might there- 
 fore very possibly be mistaken by them for one of 
 -their own species ; but our dog, being perfectly 
 
IJ'Z A voYAca; or oiscovery 
 
 black, could not be easily taken for an animal of 
 their own kind. I mention these circumstances, 
 however, as a mere matter of opinion, and I have 
 no doubt but it will be considered, that I have 
 said more about the subject altogether than it 
 deserved. 
 
 Thursday f February 3d. — Nothing of any im- 
 portance occurred for this fortnight past ; the 
 weather has been for most part of tiie time more 
 boisterous than we have usually had it during the 
 first part of the winter, the thermometer has there- 
 fore never been very low ; for, from the 20th of last 
 month, until two o'clock this afternoon, it had 
 never been below 40° ; this evening however it 
 came on a calm, and the thermometer before 
 midnight fell as low as 441°. For some days past 
 we have had so much light about noon, that both 
 officers and men generally went to the mast-head 
 to look out for the sun ; for although we were 
 perfectly aware of the time on which it ought ta 
 reappear, according to its declination, yet as the 
 Dutch navigator, Barentz, saw it at Nova Zembla 
 several days before it ought to be seen, in the lati- 
 tude in which he wintered, we had reason to 
 suppose that whatever effect refraction might have 
 there, the same might be expected to take place 
 here. Notwithstanding our vigilance, we always 
 found, however, that although it must have been 
 very nigh the horizon for some days past, that it 
 never appeared above it untU to-day. * As the 
 
 * It deserves to be mentioned, that although we have not 
 seen the sun so long before the time it ought to be seen as 
 Barentz did, yet that its reappearance to-day is three day* 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. lyS 
 
 forenoon was very fine and clear, we made sure of 
 seeing it ; several of us were therefore in the main- 
 top about half past eleven, to welcome its return, 
 and at twelve, or rather a few minutes after, we had 
 the pleasure of seeing the glorious luminary again, 
 after an absence of ninety-two days. It is more 
 easy to conceive than describe the pleasure that 
 every person felt on this occasion, at again seeing 
 that heavenly agent, which is to set us free from 
 confinement. But I consider, that to do justice to 
 this subject, and to the sensations excited by so 
 sublime and joyful a sight, would require my 
 entering into rhapsodies, more suitable to the effu- 
 sions of a poetical imagination, than the unadorned 
 language of a plain narrator ; I shall therefore 
 avoid saying any thing more about the matter. 
 Durino; the time the sun was above the horizon *, 
 a vertical column of a beautiful red colour extended 
 from it towards the zenith, the colour of it was 
 most brilliant near the sun, and diminished gradu- 
 ally as it went upwards. It was observed also, that 
 
 sooner than it ought to be seen in this latitude, according to its 
 declination ; but when Ave consider the density of the atmo- 
 sphere in these regions, and consequently its increased refractive 
 power, we ought not to be surprised, but, on the contrary, 
 rather expect to find that the sun would reappear some time 
 before it got within 90° of us, after allowing for the ordinary 
 refraction. 
 
 * There was a little thin haze in the horizon, so that the 
 sun's disc was not well defined ; from this circumstance one or 
 two persons who were inclined to be sceptical, doubted even 
 the sun being above the horizon at^ all ; but characters of this 
 sort will always appear in subjects that admit of a doubt. 
 
174" A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 it was not always of the same brilliancy, but that it 
 twinkled so that the upper part of it vanished 
 altogether for a moment ; it then instantaneously 
 brightened up as splendid as before ; this twinkling 
 went on in quick succession, during the whole 
 time the column appeared. Its breadth was about 
 equal to the sun's diameter, and its height, or 
 altitude, when in its greatest splendour, was be- 
 tween four and five degrees. 
 
 Friday i lith. — The dog belonging to one of 
 the officers of the Griper, which has been men- 
 tioned some time ago, as having been in the habit 
 of paying visits to the wolves, or at all events on 
 being on very familiar terms with them, has been 
 missing since the 2d inst. He was supposed, for 
 the first day or two, to have remained only a little 
 longer than usual to gratify his amorous propensities, 
 and that, after his desires had been satiated, cold 
 and hunger would induce him to return. But the 
 length of time that he has now been away, leaves, 
 I think, very little hope that we shall see him any 
 more. It is most probable that they decoyed him 
 into one of their dens, and there destroyed him ; 
 some, however, are of opinion that he lost his way 
 in returning to the ships, and ultimately perished 
 by the cold ; but as it is a subject not worthy of 
 any great speculation, I shall not say any more 
 about it. It is possible, indeed, that when the snow 
 melts in the spring, we shall fall in with some 
 remains of him that will tend to show the manner 
 in which he was lost. The weather to-day, and for 
 some days past, has been very fine ; from ten o'clock 
 in the forenoon, until two in the afternoon, there is 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 17-5 
 
 generally a zone or belt, of a beautiful red colour, 
 all round the horizon, from the S. E. round by 
 north to the S. W. The breadth of this ring is 
 from four to five degrees ; it is brightest near the 
 horizon, and its colour diminishes gradually 
 towards its upper edge, where it terminates in a 
 pale yellow. The colour of the sky above this 
 belt is of the finest blue, which increases gradually 
 in its intensity, or darkness, towards the zenith. 
 The Aurora Borealis has been seen for some nights 
 past, but never very brilliant ; the electrometer 
 has been tried, but it was not aftected by it, nor 
 has any effect been produced by it on the most 
 sensible of our azimuth-compasses. 
 
 Monday y 14//z. — The thermometer this after- 
 noon fell to 54° below zero, which is the greatest 
 cold that we have yet registered, or indeed that 
 we have any well authenticated account of any 
 one else having registered. * The weather at the 
 time was perfectly calm, and although certainly 
 cold, it was so far from being intolerably so, that 
 we walked about in the open air without any 
 inconvenience, and without any additional clothing 
 more than we have been accustomed to wear 
 throughout the winter. I am of opinion, indeed, 
 that a much greater degree of cold might be en- 
 dured in calm weather without suffering any bad 
 effect from it, for the feelings does not appear by 
 
 * M. Haiiy indeed mentions that it is recorded in the Trans- 
 actions of the Academy of Petersburg, that a temperature of 
 57° below zero had been registered once in some part of 
 Siberia. 
 
17f> A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 any means to be so sensible after the thermometer 
 has fallen to between 30° or 40° below zero. 
 
 We had a good instance to-day of the effect that 
 different colours have in reflecting heat, for the 
 piece of board on which the thermometers were 
 suspended had one side of it painted black, and 
 the other side white, that is of the colour of the 
 wood itself, and it was observed that the ther- 
 mometer suspended on the black side, never 
 fell lower than 52°, while the one that hung 
 on the white side of the board stood at 54°. * I 
 remarked also at this time that the smoke 
 from the ships rose quite perpendicularly, (there 
 being no wind at the time,) so that a low tem- 
 perature alone does not appear to be sufficient to 
 produce the phenomenon of smoke falling to the 
 ground as some have observed, but which I must 
 confess I have never seen myself, although I have 
 frequently, during this winter, looked out for the 
 thing. I have observed, indeed, two or three 
 times, that the vapour from the coppers, when they 
 were melting snow, condensed, and fell immediate- 
 ly it came into the open air ; but this is easily ac- 
 counted for, nor could indeed any thing else be 
 expected than that aqueous vapour would, on 
 coming into a temperature of thirty or forty 
 degrees below zero, immediately condense, and 
 consequently fall. 
 
 Tuesday i 15th, — At six o*clock this morning 
 
 ♦ As the piece of board on which they (thermometers) were 
 suspended, was set up on the ice at a considerable distance, 
 ^perhaps from 80 to 90 yards) from the ship, we are certain 
 that this difference could not be caused by any locality, or 
 substance that was near it. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 177 
 
 the thermometer was as low as 55°, but a light 
 breeze having sprung up shortly after, it soon rose 
 to 50°. As I considered this day to be one of the 
 coldest that we are likely to have this winter, I 
 made an experiment, which, although trivial, de- 
 serves to be mentioned, as it exemplifies in a very 
 simple manner the rapidity with which water is 
 frozen in such a temperature, as we have had 
 to-day. The experiment in question is thus : I 
 took a quart bottle, full of fresh water to the main- 
 top, and there poured it through a small cullendar, 
 when it was found that by the time the drops of 
 water had fallen to the roofing over the ship, they 
 had congealed into irregular spherical masses. 
 The height between the main-top and the place 
 on which they fell was 40 feet 8 inches. * 
 
 Thursday^ IJth. — The thermometer in my 
 cabin last night was as low as 10°, and the average 
 height of it there for these ten days past has been 
 from 15° to 20° ; in the day time, indeed, it some- 
 times rises to S^", but seldom ever above that. 
 
 Thursday, Q4>th. — Nothing of any importance 
 occurred for this week past ; but an event took 
 place to-day rather of an unpleasant nature, for at 
 a quarter past ten in the forenoon, the house on 
 
 ♦ I ought to mention, however, that the water did not fall 
 quite perpendicular, owing to a light air of wind that existed 
 at the time ; consequently it must have taken more time in 
 falling than a body moving freely would take in describing the 
 same space ; for according to the rule, that, " the spaces 
 described by a body falling, increase as the squares of the time 
 increase," it would appear that the water in question froze in 
 less than two seconds. 
 
17S A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERT 
 
 shore was observed to be on fire ; every person ran 
 immediately to put it out ; but the mats with which 
 the inside of it was Hned were so dry, that it was 
 found impossible to extinguish it, or rather to 
 smother it, for, as we had no water, the only thing 
 that we could substitute for it was snow, which 
 was thrown on it in great abundance, but with 
 very little effect ; for, notwithstanding the violence 
 of the fire, it melted but very little of the snow. 
 But although it did not extinguish the fire, it an- 
 swered another purpose, almost equally beneficial, 
 for by covering the different astronomical instru- 
 ments, &c., they were secured from the fire, and 
 after this important point had been accomplished, 
 the roofing was pulled off, and in a few minutes 
 after the fire was extinguished. After the snow 
 was thrown out, it was found that very little 
 damage had been done to any of the instruments j 
 the astronomical clocks, which were the most 
 valuable articles there, were fortunately in the 
 cases as they w^ere landed, which secured them 
 completely. A repeating circle was, indeed, the 
 only instrument of any importance that was in- 
 jured ; and the only damage it sustained was its 
 levels having got broke, most probably by the 
 boiling of the spirits that they contained. A pair 
 of mountain barometers, and two or three thermo- 
 meters, were, 1 understand, the only instruments 
 that were destroyed. I ought to mention, how- 
 ever, that several articles of wearing apparel, (that 
 had been taken there to get washed,) were con- 
 sumed, and three or four fowling-pieces, that had 
 been there undergoing some repair, had their stocks 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 179 
 
 very much disfigured, and one or two of them ren- 
 dered unserviceable altogether ; but, upon the 
 whole, I think much less damage was done than 
 we had at one time reason to expect, for the con- 
 flagration at the time the roofing was taking off, 
 gave little hopes of any thing being saved. Con- 
 siderable as the fire was, its influence or heat ex- 
 tended but a very little way, for several of the 
 officers and men were frost-bitten, the two men in 
 particular, who were in the house at the time the 
 fire commenced, suffered very severely ; one of them, 
 indeed, is in great danger of losing some of his 
 fingers, for, notwithstanding every effort was, and 
 is still making to restore them to life, most of them 
 are, as yet, without the least sensation. Some idea 
 may be formed of the state they were in when he 
 came on board, from this circumstance, that when 
 they were immersed in a small tub of cold water 
 for the purpose of thawing them, the cold they 
 communicated to the water was so great that a 
 thin film of ice was immediately formed on its sur- 
 face. This may appear to some to be so extraor- 
 dinary, as to be almost incredible, and I have no 
 doubt that I should be apt to disbelieve it also, 
 had I not been an eye-witness of the thing myself; 
 but this was certainly one of the coldest days I 
 ever experienced, for it blew very fresh, and the 
 thermometer was at the time we were out at 43'^ 
 below zero ; what must therefore be the effect of 
 such a cold on a man having his bare hands ex- 
 posed to it for an hour, as was the case with the 
 man in question ? The way in which the fire broke 
 out at first, was by some clothes which were hung 
 
 N S 
 
180 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 up close to the stove having caught fire, which 
 communicated it immediately to the dry mats with 
 which the inside of the house was lined. 
 
 Monday, 28th. — We had a portion of the 2d, 
 19th, and 22d articles of war read on the quarter- 
 deck to-day, and after that a long order relating 
 chiefly to some difference between two of the offi- 
 cers some days ago. 
 
 Wednesday, March 8th. — Nothing has occurred 
 for this week past deserving of particular notice, 
 except haloes and parhelia, which have been seen at 
 different times round the sun ; their usual distance, 
 or I may say, indeed, their almost invariable dis- 
 tance from it is about 22i° ; although from their 
 edge being sometimes but badly defined, it is 
 found at times to be a few minutes, and sometimes 
 even a degree less. The most beautiful pheno- 
 menon of this kind that I have yet seen was ob- 
 served this afternoon ; the parhelia were so bright, 
 that had the sun not been in sight, either of them 
 (for there were two) might be supposed to be it, 
 behind a thin cloud. They were parallel to the 
 horizon, at the usual distance from the sun, and 
 situated so that a straight line drawn from the one 
 to the other would pass through the sun. The 
 side of them that was nearest to it was of a bright 
 reddish colour, which vanished gradually into 
 orange, and that again into yellow ; but instead of 
 the rest of the prismatic colours following this, as 
 usual, in succession, the next colour was a very 
 brilliant white, which occupied the centre of the 
 parhelia. The halo was also very beautiful, and 
 presented all the prismatic colours faintly. 
 
 14 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ISl 
 
 The weather, for two or three days past, has 
 been much finer than we have had it since the 
 commencement of the winter, for the thermometer 
 was for some hours yesterday, and the day before, 
 above zero ; and at two o'clock yesterday after- 
 noon, when placed in the sun under the stern of 
 the ship, it rose to 35. 
 
 Tuesday^ 14th. — One of the men who was frost- 
 bitten when the house was burnt a fortnight ago, 
 had a part of three fingers of the left, and two of 
 the right hand amputated to-day, in consequence 
 of what he suffered at that time, having destroyed 
 life in the joints that were removed. Whatever 
 the process is that destroys vitality by means of 
 cold, its effects on the parts that are destroyed are 
 very different from that produced by sphacelus, 
 or mortification of any other kind, that I remem- 
 ber having ever seen ; for neither the size, nor the 
 texture of the parts in question, were in the least 
 altered, except that the skin and nails came off a 
 few days ago. 
 
 The destruction of the skin, or rather the de- 
 tachment of it, has almost invariably taken place 
 in every case of frost-bite that has occurred since 
 the beginning of the winter. Of the mode of 
 treating them, although our practice has been very 
 considerable, I am not aware that we can throw 
 any additional light on the subject. Friction, with 
 snow at first, and afterwards immersion in cold 
 water, until sensation is restored, appears to be the 
 best applications to begin with ; and when cold 
 applications did not subdue in a short time, the 
 inflammation that afterwards occurred, I always 
 
 N S 
 
182 A VOYAGE OK DISCOVERY 
 
 observed that cataplasms were the most efficacious 
 remedies. 
 
 Thursday i l6th. — The weather, for these ten 
 days past, has been, generally speaking, very 
 windy, which we attribute, as is customary, to 
 the approach of the equinox. The temperature 
 of the air still keeps very low, for the thermometer, 
 to-day, at noon, in the shade, was 21° below zero; 
 whilst, in the sun, at the same time, it rose to 
 29°, making the extraordinary difference of 50° 
 between the sun and the shade. The officers per- 
 formed this evening the last play that is intended 
 to be acted this season ; and after it, was spoken a 
 very appropriate epilogue, written for the occasion 
 by Mr. Wakeham. 
 
 Monday, 20th, — A large white bird was seen to- 
 day by two of our men, who were on shore ; it is 
 generally supposed that it was an owl ; but the 
 men themselves think that it was a glaucous gull, 
 or burgomaster as they call it ; and as one of those 
 who saw it has been often in Greenland, and con- 
 sequently must have frequently seen these birds, 
 some deference is certainly due to his opinion, 
 however much we may be surprised to find a bird 
 of this kind in these regions so early. 
 
 Thursday, 23d. — A hole was made to-day 
 through the ice, about a cable's length from the 
 ship, for the purpose of ascertaining its thickness, 
 which was found to be six feet six inches, exclu- 
 sive of six or seven inches of snow that lay on its 
 surface. Although the temperature of the air is 
 still much below the freezing point, it may be pre- 
 sumed, 1 think, that the ice will not increase 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 183 
 
 much more in thickness this season, for the in- 
 fluence of the sun is now very perceptible from 
 noon until two o'clock. 
 
 Monday, Qrjth. — The people have been em- 
 ployed for some days past bringing stones down 
 from the hills to the beach for ballast. This way 
 of employing them happens to come very oppor- 
 tunely, for some cases of scurvy have lately made 
 their appearance ; but it is to be hoped, that since 
 the' weather now permits their being employed in 
 the open air, the disease will be prevented from 
 spreading any farther. We found a fox to-day 
 (dead) in one of the traps that are out ; he is 
 about the same size, and in every respect similar 
 in appearance to the one caught by the Griper in 
 the winter time. The weather, although fine, still 
 keeps cold ; for the thermometer, at four o'clock 
 this morning, was as low as 33 below zero, and for 
 some days past it has not, at any time of the day, 
 been higher than 18°. 
 
 Saturday, April 1st. — Paucity of events induces 
 people sometimes to record things that are often 
 very trivial, and of this description, I have no 
 doubt but many would consider the following cir- 
 cumstance ; but as it throws some light on a point 
 that lay in obscurity, I shall insert it. The cir- 
 cumstance in question is concerning a stone that 
 was found to-day about three miles inland from 
 the ship, having the letter P cut on it. As we 
 had every reason to suppose that no civilized per- 
 son had ever been on this island before ourselves, 
 and as but few had been in the habit of going in 
 the direction where the stone was found, it excited 
 
 N 4 
 
1S4 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 enough of curiosity to cause an enquiry to be 
 made, if any person in either ship had cut the 
 letter in question ; when it was found, that one of 
 tlie men belonging to the Griper, who was of the 
 party that lost their way in the month of September 
 last, recollected his having, during the time they 
 were away, cut the letter P, which is the first of 
 his name (viz. Peter Fisher), on a stone, whilst he 
 was sitting down resting himself. From this cir- 
 cumstance it would appear, that the party in 
 question, instead of going, as some of them 
 thought, a great way inland, must have gone to 
 the eastward, at no great distance from the coast, 
 for the distance between the place where the stone 
 was picked up, and where the ships then lay, is 
 upwards of twenty miles, so that their going and 
 returning ov^er that space would occupy no incon- 
 siderable portion of the time they were away. 
 
 Wednesday, 5th , — The weather to-day, and for 
 some days past, has been remarkably fine : the 
 thermometer in the sun this afternoon rose as high 
 as 46° ; in the shade, however, it still keeps low ; 
 at four o'clock this morning it was 24° below zero, 
 and even at noon it was 12°. 
 
 In speaking of the scurvy having made its ap- 
 pearance last month, I omitted to mention that 
 several cases of it occurred also in the Griper about 
 the same time, one or two of them with symptoms 
 rather more unfavourable than any we had here. 
 In consequence of this, and their having a greater 
 proportion of cases than we had, it was deemed 
 expedient to remove the men's bed-places, and to 
 substitute hammocks for them, as it was supposed 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 185 
 
 that the dampness occasioned by the steam of their 
 victuals, and breath, &c. condensing in their bed- 
 places, from the smallness of their deck, had been 
 conducive to the increase of the disease. What 
 share of influence this alteration has had in pro- 
 ducing the favourable change that has since taken 
 place, I will not venture to assert ; but I have 
 pleasure in stating, that all those who were ill in 
 both ships are now recovering fast ; and, indeed, 
 with the exception of one or two, are all quite 
 well.* 
 
 Su7iday^ Qth. — Haloes and parhelia have been 
 seen at different times since the beginning of this 
 month ; but as none of them differed in any way 
 from those that have been already described, I have 
 omitted saying any thing about them. One was 
 seen to-day, however, which differed very mate- 
 rially from any that we have hitherto seen. It first 
 appeared at noon, and continued visible until six 
 o'clock in the evening. It exhibited the greatest 
 display of colours about one o'clock. It consisted 
 of one complete halo, 45° in diameter, and seg- 
 ments of several other haloes ; the most perfect 
 of them was immediately above it, where their 
 peripheries touched : the other segments were one 
 on each side of the halo, not unlike parts of a 
 rainbow resting on the horizon j and two above it, 
 that is, between it and the zenith. Besides these, 
 there was another complete ring, of a pale white co- 
 lour, which went right round the sky, parallel with 
 the horizon, and at a distance from it equal to the 
 
 ■ * Their speedy recovery on board of us, may be attributed 
 in a great measure to some mustard and cress, which Mr. Parry 
 took great pains to grow in his cabin for them. 
 
186 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 sun's altitude. Where tliis ring or circle cut the halo, 
 there were two parhelia, and another close to the 
 horizon, directly under the sun ; this was by far the 
 most brilliant of the parhelia, being exactly like the 
 sun slightly obscured by a thin cloud at its rising or 
 setting. With respect to the colours of the other 
 parhelia and haloes, I may say of them in general, 
 that they were prismatic, and showed them more 
 or less to advantage, according to the state of the 
 weather : when there was a little snow falling, as 
 was frequently the case during the day, the dif- 
 ferent colours shone with the greatest splendour. 
 I have always observed, indeed, when these haloes 
 or parhelia are seen, that there is a little snow 
 falling, or rather small spiculcVy or fine crystals of 
 ice. 
 
 Friday, 14} th. — One of our dogs, which had 
 been with a wolf for these three days past, re- 
 turned to the ship this morning, without having 
 suffered any injury from its ravenous companion, 
 which we suspect to be a she-wolf, from the in- 
 timacy that appeared to subsist between them. On 
 Wednesday, a party of us were within a hundred 
 yards of them, when another dog that we had 
 with us ran up to them ; but he appeared to be 
 a very unwelcome visitor, for she gave him a few 
 rough shakes, which soon sent him back howling. 
 She was about the size of a Newfoundland dog, 
 and not unlike one in shape, only that her tail was 
 longer, for it reached the ground. The weather 
 is fine and clear ; but, considering the advanced 
 state of the season, it is much colder than we anti- 
 cipated to have it at this time ; for the thermometer 
 has been for several nights past as low as 30'' -, and 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 187 
 
 the average temperature throughout the whole 
 day is 20° below zero. 
 
 Thursday y QOth. — There has been a consider- 
 able fall of snow to-day ; and it fell in flakes, 
 which is different from any that we have seen 
 since last summer ; for what fell during the winter, 
 used always to be something like fine powder. 
 The weather, since this fall of snow, has become 
 much milder than it was before ; this afternoon 
 the thermometer in the shade rose as high as 4° 
 above zero, the wind at the time being from the 
 southward and eastward, which we always find to 
 be the warmest wind.* 
 
 Wednesday, Qdth. — The weather continues to 
 improve ; the snow that was on the roofing of the 
 ships all melted off to-day ; and on shore, where 
 the black turf appears through the snow, the edge 
 of the snow has dissolved a little ; and the plants 
 that are uncovered in these places, are already 
 beginning to bud. The ground, however, is more 
 generally covered with snow, than it has been 
 since the beginning of the winter ; for the snow 
 that fell lately has been, as I have already men- 
 tioned, moister than usual, so that it has not blown 
 off as it used to do. The wolf has been frequently 
 seen of late, and the dog that I have before-men- 
 tioned continues to pay her his visits : he gene- 
 rally, indeed, remains with her for two or three days 
 
 * It is only within this month past, however, that we have 
 found that the S. E. wind has been warmer than any other ; 
 for it may be remembered that I remarked during the winter 
 that we found no difference in point of warmth from whatever 
 direction the wind was. 
 
188 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 at a time. They keep, for most part of the time, 
 within sight of the ships ; but she is so wary, that 
 it is impossible to get within gun-shot of her ; and 
 the traps that we have are too small to hold her, — 
 for some animal, which we suppose to be a wolf, 
 has been in them once or twice, but yet managed 
 to get away. 
 
 They have, within these few days past, been 
 surveying the provisions, fuel, and stores of the 
 Griper. They have not yet finished, so that the 
 report of survey is not yet made out. I under- 
 stand, however, that the frost has done some da- 
 mage to their lemon-juice, by bursting many of the 
 bottles. This, indeed, is a thing that has occurred 
 to our own, and with which we have been ac- 
 quainted for a long time past ; for, in many of the 
 lemon-juice cases that w^ere opened during the 
 winter, several bottles were found broken. 
 
 TJiursday, May 4.4h. — An order has been issued 
 to-day, stating that the officers and men of both 
 ships are to be reduced to two-thirds* allowance of 
 all sorts of provisions, except *' meat, and sugar 
 for cocoa," on the 8th instant. Whether this re- 
 gulation is in consequence of any deficiency that 
 has been found by the late survey or not, I am 
 unable to say, as the order did not state the 
 reason ; but certainly there must be good reasons 
 for adopting such a measure, particularly at this 
 time, when active employment is about to com- 
 mence. The weather is now improving daily ; 
 the thermometer, about midnight, generally falls 
 as low as zero, but during the day it is, for the 
 most part of the time, from 10° to 15° above it ; 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 189 
 
 and on the 30th of last month it rose to 32°, 
 which is the greatest heat that we have experi- 
 enced since we came to Winter Harbour. 
 
 The people have been employed, during these 
 two days past, clearing away the snow that was 
 banked up against the ship's sides at the begin- 
 ning of the winter ; and, after it is cleared off, 
 it is intended to cut the ice round the ship, for it 
 is not considered safe to put ballast into her whilst 
 fast in the ice. 
 
 In that part where they have cleared away the 
 snow, we had an opportunity of observing that the 
 ice has not increased in thickness from its upper 
 surface during the winter ; for the surface of the 
 ice on the channel that they used to cut round 
 the ship was exactly in the same position, with 
 respect to her sides, as when they left off cutting 
 it ; and the ice on the edge or bank of this chan- 
 nel was a few inches higher than it, just the same 
 as it was before it was covered with snow. My 
 reason for mentioning this circumstance, is, be- 
 cause an opinion was some time ago entertained 
 that a considerable part of the floe-ice was formed 
 by the snow which fell upon it, consolidating on 
 its surface ; and, certainly, there was very good 
 foundation for supposing this to be the case, for 
 the water obtained from the floe-ice, when dis- 
 solved, we never found to be any more than 
 slightly brackish, and that which we found in the 
 pools on its surface was so fresh, that we used to 
 water the ship from them. It is evident, how- 
 ever, from the foregoing circumstance, and many 
 others that might be adduced, if necessary, that 
 
190 A VOYAGi; OF DISCOVERY 
 
 the ice is formed from the water, and not from 
 the snow, although there can be no doubt but the 
 latter adds very materially to the thickness of the 
 floes. Since the first of this month, the sun has 
 been seen above the hills at midnight, so that we 
 have now lost the natural distinction of day and 
 night ; however, for the sake of perspicuity, I 
 shall continue to use these terms. 
 
 Wednesday y 10th. — Nothing has occurred for 
 this week' past deserving of notice, except the 
 gradual improvement in the state of the weather, 
 and that, indeed, is very slow ; for the thermo- 
 meter, even now, fell at midnight to zero ; the 
 progress of vegetation is, however, beginning to 
 be very perceptible. The people have been em- 
 ployed, as above mentioned, cutting the ice round 
 the ship. The average thickness of it is about 
 seven feet, which I think may be presumed to be 
 the general thickness of all the ice on this har- 
 bour, and perhaps, indeed, of all the ice that has 
 been formed oft* this coast during the last winter. 
 
 Friday y \^th. — At two o'clock this afternoon 
 the thermometer in the shade rose as high as 
 18°, although the wind at the time was from 
 the northward ; we had besides to-day another 
 instance of the approach of summer, which is that 
 of a ptarmigan having been seen. Its plumage, 
 with the exception of the tips of the tail feathers, 
 was perfectly white, and these were of a jet-black 
 colour. 
 
 Saturdaijy 13///. — A ptarmigan was shot to-day, 
 which is supposed to be that seen yesterday, as it 
 was found near the same place ; it was in very good 
 condition, from which we might infer, if we were 
 
TO TIIK ARCTIC -JIEGIONS. 191 
 
 in doubt about the matter, that it had been living 
 in a better country than this during the winter. 
 But, I beUeve, every one is perfectly satisfied that 
 they migrated to the southward at the commence- 
 ment of the winter, for if they lived in this country 
 we must have surely seen some of them during these 
 eight months past ; besides, if we had no other 
 ground to reason upon than the myriads of them 
 that are found in the neighbourhood of Hudson's 
 Bay during the winter, it might be inferred that 
 they migrate thither during that season. 
 
 Monday f 15th. — Several ptarmigans have been 
 seen by different persons yesterday and to-day, 
 and their tracks and excrement are met with so 
 frequently on the snow, that there must be a great 
 many of them already arrived. I have seen four 
 of them to-day on the wing coming from the south- 
 ward. A snow-bunting and a raven were also seen 
 to-day. One of the parties that were out observed 
 a curious scene between the latter and a wolf : when 
 the raven had lighted, the wolf managed to get 
 within a few yards of him unperceived, but imme- 
 diately he (the wolf) observed that he was seen by 
 the raven, instead of running direct on to him, he 
 began to go round him, at the same time closing 
 upon him so gradually as to be scarcely perceived j 
 but before he had accomplished his object, the 
 party got so close to them as to set them off. Se- 
 veral tracks of rein-deer were seen yesterday lead- 
 ing to the northward : they were supposed to be 
 fresh tracks by those who saw them, but the tracks 
 that they left on the snow before the winter set in 
 are yet in some places so perfect, that some doubts 
 
192 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 are yet entertained whether those in question are 
 not old tracks. For my own part, I consider it quite 
 unnecessary to offer an opinion on the subject, for 
 if they are fresh tracks, it is more than probable 
 that in a very short time we shall have unequivocal 
 proofs of the return of the deer. The weather has 
 been very mild for these two days, but the thermo- 
 meter in the shade has not been above 20°, but 
 it is above the freezing point in the sun every day 
 in places that are sheltered from the north wind, 
 and having a southerly aspect. As soon as the 
 weather is likely to become permanently fine, I 
 understand that it is intended for a party to go 
 over land to the northward, to ascertain, if possible, 
 the breadth of this island, and to see what state the 
 sea is in to the northward, together with such other 
 remarks as they may be able to make. For the 
 greater convenience of carrying the provisions, 
 tents, and other baggage they are to take, a light 
 cart is making, which the men are .to draw. The 
 tents (two in number) are made of blankets, and 
 are to be set up on boarding pikes, which, in case 
 of its being necessary to make defence against any 
 animal, will be found useful weapons. The pro- 
 \dsions are packed in such a way that, in the event 
 of the cart breaking down, or its being from any 
 other reason necessarily abandoned, that they may 
 carry them on their backs. I shall forbear saying 
 any more about the subject at present, as I expect 
 a few days will enable me to give a full account of 
 the equipment, &c. of the party. 
 
 Wednesday, IJth. — Several of the people who 
 have been out on excursions at different times dur- 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 193 
 
 ing this week past, liave experienced on their 
 return severe pains in their eyes, or, as it is com- 
 monly called, snow-blindness. It first commences 
 by a sensation somewhat like that which is felt 
 wlien sand or dust gets into a person's eyes : in- 
 deed those who were first affected could hardly be 
 persuaded but that their sufferings proceeded from 
 something of that sort, for the general complaint 
 was that sand or dust got into their eyes. The 
 true cause is now, however, perfectly well known, 
 and to prevent the recurrence of the complaint, 
 all the men before they go out are ordered to wear 
 a piece of crape, or some substitute for it, over 
 their eyes. All the cases that have yet occurred 
 of this complaint recovered in two or three days 
 by keeping the eyes covered, and bathing them oc- 
 casionally with some cooling lotion; that which we 
 have used is what is commonly called the sugar of 
 lead (Cerussa acet.) Notwithstanding all the cases 
 that we have hitherto had of this complaint yielded 
 easily to the topical application above mentioned, 
 some of them had their eyes highly inflamed, and, 
 as I have already said, exceedingly painful, inso- 
 much that one or two of them could hardly be 
 persuaded, the first day, but that they would lose 
 their eye-sight. 
 
 Several grous (^Ptarmigans) have been killed 
 within these two or three days past, and we are 
 now perfectly certain that there are deer on the 
 island, although we have not yet seen any of 
 them. 
 
 They finished cutting the channel round the 
 ship to-day, and immediately she was relieved 
 
194 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 from the ice, she rose about a foot and a half 
 forward, and a foot aft ; which was contrary to 
 what was generally believed would take place, 
 for it was supposed that she was buoyed up by 
 the ice. A little reflection, however, would show 
 that the reverse must have happened, for all 
 the fuel and provisions that have been consumed 
 for these eight months past must have necessarily 
 lightened her very considerably ; consequently, 
 the ice, by maintaining her in the same position 
 that she occupied at the commencement of the 
 winter, would tend to keep her down, or, in other 
 words, force her to draw more water than was ne- 
 cessary to float her. 
 
 Thursday, 18th. — The weather continues to 
 improve daily. I need only mention as a proof of 
 this the following instance, which is, that the 
 Griper's housing was taken off her to-day, and I 
 believe ours is kept on merely because the survey 
 on some of the stores, &c. is not yet completed. 
 
 Wednesday, ^4}th. — Nothing has occurred for 
 this week past deserving of notice, except I was 
 to give a diary of the gradual change in the state 
 of the weather, which, as I have frequently men- 
 tioned of late, continues to improve. The ther- 
 mometer to-day, in the shade, has been from eight 
 o'clock in the morning until midnight above the 
 freezing point, so that in the sun the snow and 
 ice must be dissolving very rapidly. Within these 
 two or three days past, little pools of water have 
 been formed on the snow, in different places where 
 earth had drifted over it. This is particularly exem- 
 plified on the snow between the two ships ; for the 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REtJiONS. 195 
 
 sand and sweepings of the decks, that used to be 
 thrown overboard, drifted there, and the snow in 
 that space is now completely honeycombed, if 1 
 may use the expression. The reason of this is 
 obvious, being caused by the sand and sweepings 
 just mentioned absorbing the rays of the sun, 
 and by that means acting on the snow ; and the 
 same reason will account for the pools of water 
 that are met with on the snow, on the land, where 
 it is mixed with earth. Another circumstance oc- 
 curred to-day, that shews, if possible, in a stronger 
 degree, the change in the weather, which is, that 
 we had two showers of rain to-day, one in the 
 morning, and the other in the evening. This is 
 such an extraordinary phenomenon in these re- 
 gions, that when the first shower was reported, we 
 all ran on deck to see it, and some were not even 
 satisfied with seeing it, but were so much taken 
 with the novelty of the thing, that they went out- 
 side to receive a little of it. 
 
 Saturday y ^Jth. — Two ivory gulls were seen 
 to-day, from which we may infer, that there 
 must be open water at no great distance off*. 
 Among the many instances that I have lately 
 mentioned, of the great change that has taken 
 place in the state of the weather, nothing can 
 more clearly shew this, than a circumstance that 
 occurred this afternoon, which is, that two mus- 
 quitoes have been caught. They were rather 
 smaller than those of tropical climates, but re- 
 sembled them in every other lespect. A great 
 part of the hills is now uncovered of their winter 
 gai'b, and vegetation is in some places well ad- 
 
 o 2 
 
iy6 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 vaneed. From this circumstance we have been 
 induced to manure, and delve two or three pieces 
 of ground, in which are to be sown radishes, 
 onions, and some other seeds of cuUnary plants, 
 that were supplied to the ship. 
 
 Thursday^ June \st. — The expedition that I 
 mentioned some time ago, that were getting ready 
 for travelling overland to the northward, is in- 
 tended so set off this evening. It is to consist of 
 five officers, and seven men, whose names are as 
 follows, viz. 
 
 Lieut. W. E. Parry - - Hecla. 
 
 Capt. E. Sabine, R. A. - ditto. 
 
 Mr. Alex. Fisher, Assistant Surgeon ditto. 
 
 — Jo. Nias, Midshipman - ditto. 
 
 — And. Reid, ditto - Griper. 
 Serjt. Martin, R. A. - - Hecla. 
 
 M'Mahon, R. M. - ditto. 
 
 Wm. Dick, seaman - - ditto. 
 
 Rich. Drew, ditto - - ditto. 
 
 Jo. Kately, marine - - ditto. 
 
 P. Fisher, seaman - - Griper. 
 
 Benj. Scrivener, ditto. - ditto. 
 
 As I am appointed to be one of this party, I must 
 necessarily omit saying any thing concerning the 
 occurrences that may happen on board, until our 
 return ; therefore, what immediately follows, will 
 be a .diary of every thing worthy of notice, that 
 comes under our observation in the course of our 
 excursion. The object of the expedition I have 
 already mentioned, being that of determining, if 
 . possible, the breadth of this land, and if that can 
 be accomplished, to see what state the sea is in to 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 197 
 
 the northward. Some minor objects might also 
 be enumerated, that make it desirable that such 
 an excursion should be undertaken ; for Euro- 
 peans have seen so little of the interior of Arctic 
 lands, that, had we no other object, that alone 
 would be a sufficient motive for undertaking such 
 a journey, more particularly as it happens to be a 
 time when nothing else can be done, for although 
 the weather is very fine, the ice on the harbour is 
 dissolving but slowly, so that there is no imme- 
 diate prospect of an open sea. We are to take 
 three weeks* provisions with us, two tents, and se- 
 veral bundles of dry wood for fuel, these articles, 
 being, as it were, public property, are to be car- 
 ried in the cart.* Everv officer and man are to 
 carry besides a certain number of articles, (for 
 their own particular use,) of which a list has been 
 made, in order to furnish themselves accordingly. 
 These are a blanket, a spare pair of shoes, two 
 spare pair of stockings, a flannel shirt, and a 
 number of smaller articles, that hardly deserve to 
 be specified separately ; let it suffice, that the 
 whole of every individual's private baggage, 
 weighs from eighteen to twenty-four pounds^ We 
 carry it in knapsacks ; the officers have one each, 
 and the men a knapsack between every two. Be- 
 sides the articles above-mentioned, we have three 
 fowling-pieces, and two pistols, with a consider- 
 able quantity of ammunition, by means of which, 
 we may presume, on being able to add a little to 
 our stock of provisions on our way. 
 
 * The weight of every thing on the cart was altogether about 
 800 lbs. 
 
 o 3 
 
198 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 Being thus equipped, we started from the ships 
 at a quarter of an hour after five o'clock in the af- 
 ternoon. We were accompanied to the beacli 
 by almost every individual in both ships, where 
 they gave u& three hearty cheers, which we re- 
 turned with equal spirit. The major part of the 
 people now returned on board ; sixteen officers and 
 men, however, who were anxious to give us, if 
 possible, a more convincing proof of their zeal 
 towards the enterprize we were undertaking, ac- 
 companied us for about five miles, carrying our 
 knapsacks, and drawing the cart. On their parting, 
 another volley of cheers was nterchanged. We 
 now proceeded on by ourselves, until a quarter 
 past eleven o'clock, when we stopped, pitched our 
 tents, and supped, or, according to our intended 
 arrangement of time, dined ; for as we are to tra- 
 vel at night, it will be best, I think, to name our 
 meals according as they occur with regard to our 
 time of rest. The reason that we are to reverse the 
 order of time, or, in other words, to sleep in the 
 day and travel at night, is because the day-time is 
 the warmest, and consequently the fittest for rest- 
 ing to people provided as we are with no other 
 covering than what we wear, except the tent, and 
 a single blanket each. 
 
 Friday ^Zd. — We had every thing packed up 
 again at a quarter before one o'clock this morning, 
 and resumed our journey. In the Donkin's pre- 
 served meat-case that was emptied at dinner, we 
 put a slip of parchment, on which was written a 
 brief account of the party who left it, and depo- 
 sited it under a small pile of stones at the place 
 
 17 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 199 
 
 where we dined. Shortly after we started, this 
 morning, we came to a small lake about half a mile 
 in length, and two hundred yards in breadth ; a 
 considerable part of it was clear of ice, which led 
 us to suppose that two Eider ducks that flew past 
 us, a little while before we came to it, had come 
 from it. Soon after we passed this lake, we saw 
 several ptarmigans, and in the course of the night 
 shot seven of them as we went along. Between 
 two and three o'clock in the morning, we got to the 
 north-west end of a range of hills, which terminate 
 the view to the northward from Winter Harbour. 
 From the top of these hills we could see the ships* 
 masts very plainly with the naked eye, the distance 
 being, as near as we could judge, ten or eleven miles. 
 From these hills also we had a very extensive view 
 of an immense plain extending to the northward 
 and westward of us. It was completely covered 
 with snow, and so level, that, had we not been con- 
 vinced that it was considerably higher than Winter 
 Harbour, we should be apt to suppose that it was 
 the sea ; but as this objection could not be started 
 against its being a large lake, some were of opinion 
 that it was so ; on approaching the border of it, 
 however, we were soon satisfied that it was only a 
 level plain. Our route from the time of our leav- 
 ing the ships,' until we came in sight of this plain, 
 was over ground, generally speaking, pretty even, 
 but gradually ascending : its surface, for most part 
 of the way, was at least more than two-thirds co- 
 vered with snow. Soon after we got to the confines 
 of the plain above-mentioned, we saw a reindeer, 
 and a fawn coming across it from the southward. 
 
 o 4. 
 
200 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 The fawn appeared to be very young, at least if 1 
 may judge of its age by its size, for it did not look 
 to be much larger than a full grown cat. It could 
 run however very fast, for one of our party who 
 went a little distance after them, found that he had 
 no chance of coming up with them by dint of 
 running. The fawn appeared to be rather of a 
 darker colour than the doe ; the latter did not differ 
 in this respect from those that we killed in the be- 
 ginning of last winter. 
 
 We continued our journey until six o'clock this 
 morning, when we again pitched our tents, supped, 
 and laid down to rest, leaving an officer and a man 
 on watch, to keep a look-out, in case of our being 
 taken by surprise, by any wild animal, &c. Soon 
 after we pitched our tents, an accident occurred 
 to our thermometer, owing to the carelessness of 
 one of the men, who let something fall upon it, 
 which rendered it useless. The ground was frozen 
 quite hard when we laid down, but the heat of the 
 sun was so very powerful during the day, that we 
 found no inconvenience from cold in our tents, but 
 from being as yet unaccustomed to bivouacking, few 
 of us got any sleep ; we rested however very com- 
 fortably. 
 
 We found by meridian altitude, our latitude to 
 be 75° 00' 37'' N., and longitude, by chronometer, 
 10' east of Winter Harbour, so that we must have 
 travelled over fifteen or sixteen miles of ground, 
 since we left the ships ; the difference of latitude 
 alone between them and us being thirteen geogra- 
 phical miles. At four o'clock P. M. we all got up, 
 and prepared lor resuming our journey. We break-. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ^01 
 
 fasted on biscuit, and a pint of gruel, each made 
 of Salop powder, which we found to be a very pa- 
 latable dish. Immediately after breakfast, a party, 
 consisting of an officer, and two men, who accom- 
 panied us for the first day's journey, returned to the 
 ships. This escort consisted properly of three men, 
 but we found the snow so soft inland, that it 
 was deemed necessary to take one of these men with 
 us*, so that our travelling party now consists of 
 thirteen persons, instead of twelve, as was origi- 
 nally intended. We started again at six o'clock 
 in the evening, and continued our journey until 
 half-past ten P. M., when we again pitched our 
 tents, dined, and rested between three and four 
 hours ; for we had a very heavy pull all the after- 
 noon, our march being along the skirts of the plain 
 before-mentioned, which as I have already remarked, 
 is so deeply covered with snow, that it required 
 the united exertions of all the officers and men of 
 the party to drag the cart through it. The only 
 animals we saw in the course of our journey this 
 evening, were a few ptarmigans, and a white owl. 
 The latter was so shy, that we could not get near 
 it, and of the former we got only one or two, the 
 assistance of all of us being so indispensably neces- 
 sary for getting the cart along, that we had but 
 little time for sporting. 
 
 Saturday J 3d. — We resumed our journey again 
 at half-past two o'clock this morning, the weather 
 being hazy, with a light breeze of wind from the 
 southward. Soon after we started, we came to the 
 
 * His name is Benjamin Hadman, seaman. 
 
ti02 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 side of a hill, on which we found small pools of 
 water, from which we filled our canteens, having 
 been hitherto obliged to melt snow to procure that 
 necessary article. As we went along we fell in with 
 a reindeer (without horns), which at first was ex- 
 ceedingly tame, for he came within twenty or 
 thirty yards of the party who first saw him ; they 
 happened unfortunately however to have no fire- 
 arms with them, and by the time those who had 
 come up with him, he became more wary : he was 
 fired at, however, but without success. We pitched 
 our tents again at six o'clock A. M., supped, and 
 at eight retired to rest, under the protection, as 
 I have already remarked, of an officer, and a man 
 on watch ; but as this precaution is to be always 
 adopted whenever we stop for that purpose, it 
 will be unnecessary to mention the thing here- 
 after. In order to give every person as much rest 
 as possible, every officer and man, indiscriminately, 
 are to keep watch in their turn, so that the men 
 will not have above an hour's watch each, every 
 night, and the officers rather better than an hour 
 and a half. 
 
 Our latitude by meridian altitude at noon was 
 75° 6' 59." N., and longitude, by chronometer, 
 20' 48" E. of Winter Harbour, or rather of where 
 the ships lie.* We resumed our journey again at 
 a quarter before six in the afternoon, and conti- 
 nued on the march until a quarter past eleven, 
 when, as usual, we pitched our tents and dined. Our 
 
 * Azimuths were also taken, by which we found the variation 
 here to be 129' 22' 59" E. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS* 203 
 
 route this evening was over as barren a track of 
 land as 1 ever saw, for there was not a single ve- 
 getable production of any kind to be seen, except 
 lichens. The surface of the countr}^ over which 
 we passed, was, generally speaking, even, but in 
 many places very rough, being covered with loose 
 stones, over which we found considerable diffi- 
 culty in dragging the cart : but the greatest ob- 
 struction that we have yet met with, was in getting 
 it across a deep ravine that we had to pass. A 
 little way to the northward of this ravine we passed 
 a piece of ground that was covered with patches 
 of red sandstone, in a very disintegrated state. We 
 saw no animal of any kind during our march this 
 evening, nor even the traces of any, except here 
 and there the tracks of a fox. 
 
 Sunday y 4>th In describing the occurrences of 
 
 yesterday, I omitted to mention that we left the 
 border of the extensive plain along which we came 
 the evening before ; how far we are from it at pre- 
 sent it is impossible to say, as the weather is hazy, 
 and has been so indeed for most part of the time 
 for these four-and-twenty hours past. At the place 
 where we dined last night, we left a tin canister, 
 containing a piece of parchment, on which was 
 written a short account of the party who left it. 
 We built over it a pile of loose stones, about three 
 feet high. We started again a quarter of an hour 
 before three o'clock this morning, and continued 
 on the march until twenty minutes after seven. 
 Our route was ovei* a plain so completely covered 
 with snow, that1:he eye looked in vain for land in 
 
^04 A VOYAGE or DISCOVERY 
 
 any direction*, except to the westward, wliere an- 
 extensive range of mountains, (which from their 
 appearance we usually call the Blue Mountains), 
 terminate our view. This range appears to run 
 nearly north and south, for our route during these 
 two days past have been parallel with them, and at 
 the distance, as near as we can estimate, of twelve or 
 fifteen miles from them. Between five and six o'clock 
 this morning a breeze sprang up from the south- 
 ward, of which we availed ourselves in a way which 
 I never saw wind made use of before ; for we got 
 one of the tent-blankets rigged out on the cart as 
 a sail, which made our caravan truly characteristic 
 of our travellers, for certainly none but seafaring 
 people would ever think of such a contrivance ; 
 the benefit that was derived from it however ex- 
 ceeded the hopes even of those who suggested it. 
 The weather being cloudy, we had no observations 
 at noon. We did not resume our journey this 
 evening until half past seven o'clock, owing to the 
 weather being very unfavourable, for it blew very 
 fresh, snowed, and drifted the whole day, which 
 made the tents for the first time rather uncomfort- 
 able ; and, to add to this, one of the officers of the 
 party was taken ill with a complaint in his bowels, 
 which rendered it necessary to have him carried 
 on the cart for the greatest part of this evening's 
 march. We had the sail on the cart again for some 
 time, and found it, as before, of considerable ser- 
 
 * To give an idea of what little space there was clear of snow, 
 I need only mention that the only spot that was clear of it, was 
 that on which we pitched our tents, and it was so small that they 
 covered the whole of it. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. i205 
 
 vice whilst we went before the wind ; but this was 
 not always practicable, as we had at different times 
 to cross ravines, and other places that obliged 
 us sometimes to deviate from our true course. The 
 direction of all the ravines that we crossed this 
 evening was from east to west ; one of them was 
 very large, ha\ing its southern side very abrupt, 
 and the opposite slanting gradually. 
 
 Monday^ 5th. — The weather became so foggy 
 after ten o'clock last night, that we could not see 
 distinctly above fifty or sixty yards before us, so 
 that we were obliged to steer our way by compass ; 
 that indeed we found no great difficulty in doing, 
 but owing to the ground being so completely 
 covered with snow, we could not find a single spot 
 clear of it to pitch the tents on at oiu' usual time of 
 resting, and we were at last obliged to be content 
 with a sort of pavement that we made of loose 
 stones to place them on. Fatigue however made 
 it as soft to us as a bed of down, for we rested 
 from a quarter after one o'clock this morning, 
 until half past five, as comfortably as possible. 
 After dinner this morning we drank His Majesty's 
 health, in honour of the anniversary of his birth- 
 day. AVe were rather behind hand in point of 
 time in paying this compliment, but as the circum- 
 stances already stated prevented our dining earlier, 
 we may hope to be excused for our delay. Our 
 trip this morning was, comparatively speaking, but 
 short, for w^e did not start until a quarter before 
 six o'clock, and we stopped again at eight. Our 
 course was across a level plain, covered with snow 
 so completely, that, had the weather been clear 
 
^06 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 last niglit, I believe that we sliould find some dif- 
 ficulty to get a spot clear of snow to pitch our tents 
 on. The place where we stopped this forenoon 
 was the best spot for our purpose that we met with 
 since we left the ships. It was at the bottom of 
 an open ravine, where we found abundance of wa- 
 ter, and fine dry ground to lay upon. We found 
 the latitude of this place by meridian altitude to 
 be 75" 22' 43'' N., and longitude, by chronometer, 
 25' 57" west of Winter Harbour. We built at this 
 place a circular pile of stones, about eight feet 
 high, in the centre of which we deposited a small 
 cylinder containing a slip of parchment, similar to 
 those already mentioned that were put in the tin 
 canisters. We resumed our journey at half past 
 five o'clock in the evening, with a fine breeze of 
 wind from the southward, and beautiful, clear wea- 
 ther. The wind being fair we set sail immediate- 
 ly we got out of the ravine. At about four miles 
 from the place where we started from, we came to 
 another ravine, and between three and four miles 
 farther on we crossed a second, both of which I 
 remarked had their south side (for they ran east 
 and west) abrupt, and the north side sloping like 
 those already mentioned. This conformation I 
 am inclined to think is owing to the snow that col- 
 lects in the north side of them, for we could not 
 see the ground on that side, whilst on their south 
 side the surface of the ground was always visible. 
 We steered our course to-day entirely by com- 
 pass, for our route was over a level plain, so com- 
 pletely covered with snow, that no remarkable 
 object could be seen at a distance to be guided 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 207 
 
 hy. The way in which we managed it, therefore, 
 was putting the compass on the snow until we got 
 our eye fixed on some particular object, four or 
 five hundred yards on, in the direction we wanted 
 togOjand when we got there, taking a fresh mark 
 in the same way. This was always done by two 
 persons who went on before the rest, so that those 
 who dragged the cart never had any occasion to 
 stop; indeed, as a proof that there was no time lost, 
 we estimated that we walked over more ground 
 this evening, than we did at any one spell since we 
 first started ; the ground being even, and the wind 
 in our favour, contributed certainly very much; 
 besides, we were a considerable time on the march, 
 for we did not stop until midnight. 
 
 No living creature of any kind was seen to-day ; 
 we saw however the track of a deer, and several 
 foxes* tracks. The blue hills before mentioned 
 were in sight the whole day. In our route to-day 
 we thought that we approached them a little, but 
 I do not think that we have been at any time with- 
 in four leagues of them. About an hour before we 
 halted this evening, (i. e. at eleven o'clock,) we 
 descried a range of hills extending from north by 
 east to the eastward, which we hailed with as much 
 pleasure as mariners do land on first seeing it ; 
 for the monotony of the plain that we have been 
 travelling over for these two days past, has been 
 uninteresting in the extreme. How far these hills 
 are off we can as yet form no certain estimate, but 
 to have some object in view, let it be ever so dis- 
 tant, affords some satisfaction to the mind. Besides, 
 I ai» in hopes that we have already reached the 
 
•208 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 extremity of the plain that we have been travelling 
 over lately ; for where we pitched our tents this 
 evening, there are two or three eminences that are 
 not covered with snow. 
 
 Tuesday y 6th. — We started again at four o'clock 
 this morning, and in less than half an hour got to 
 the top of one of the eminences above mentioned, 
 where, very much to our surprise, we found the 
 land descend rapidly, as near as we could judge, 
 between three and four hundred feet ; from the 
 foot of this declivity it sloped more gradually for 
 the space of three or four miles, where it termi- 
 nated in a large plain, of which we could see no 
 end to the northward. 
 
 This was the impression we received when this 
 prospect opened first to our view, but after a few 
 minutes* observation, we were satisfied that this 
 plain could be nothing else but the sea, for, on 
 viewing it with a telescope, we could see several 
 pools of water on its surface, and along the edge 
 of it there were hummocks of ice thrown up on 
 the beach, the same as on the south coast of the 
 island ; in fact, nothing now remained to convince 
 us of its being the sea, except tasting the water, 
 and that test we were determined to add also as 
 soon as we reached it. Before we could accom- 
 plish this, however, the weather became thick, and 
 began to rain a little, with a fresh breeze of wind 
 from the southward. In order, therefore, to secure 
 a dry spot to pitch our tents upon, we were ob- 
 liged to stop at six o'clock, being then, as near as 
 we could judge, about two miles from the coast. 
 To shelter ourselves from the wind, which was, as 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 209 
 
 1 have already observed, very fresh, we built a 
 wall between five and six feet high, and seven or 
 eight long to windward of the tents. In a valley 
 close to us, there was a small lake of onen water 
 which appeared to be fi'equented by wild geese, 
 for we saw eight of them flying about in its neigh- 
 bourhood. The under part of their body, from 
 the breast backwards, was of a dull white colour, 
 all the rest of the body was dark. As the wind 
 still continued to blow pretty fresh, and the ground 
 being covered with snow that had fallen during 
 the day, we did not move with the tents in the 
 evening, but at six o'clock, P. M., a party started 
 to examine the coast more particularly, and at 
 eleven o'clock they returned perfectly convinced 
 that this is the sea ; but the ice was so thick, that 
 they could not, with the means they had, penetrate 
 through it. In order, however, to leave no room 
 for any person, let him be ever so sceptical, to 
 doubt on this point, it is determined to remove the 
 tents early to-morrow morning down to the beach, 
 and then to employ all hands in making a hole 
 through the ice. It is desirable also to determine 
 the latitude and longitude of this part of the coast, 
 for the state of the weather to-day prevented our 
 obtaining either. With respect to the nature of 
 the country on this side of the island, there is as 
 little to be said in favour of its fertility as any part 
 of it that we have yet seen ; in fact, it is as barren 
 as it is possible for land to be : even the hardy 
 poppy that abounds on the south side of the island, 
 in the worst soil, is not to be seen here. The only 
 mineral that we have yet seen on this side, is sand- 
 
 p 
 
i210 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 stone of a whitish colour, and generally of a slatey 
 nature. 
 
 Wednesday y '^th. — "We packed up the tents and 
 set off for the sea-side at a quarter before two 
 o'clock this morning, and at twenty minutes after 
 four pitched them again on the beach, under the 
 shelter of some high hummocks of ice that were 
 thrown up there. As the weather was inclement 
 at the time, we did not begin to dig the hole 
 through the ice until the afternoon. It fortunately, 
 however, cleared up for a little while at noon, so 
 that the meridian altitude of the sun was obtained, 
 and, in the afternoon, sights were taken to deter- 
 mine the longitude, and azimuths for finding the 
 variation. The results of these observations were 
 as follows, viz. lat. y^*' 34' 47" N. long. 12' 18" E. 
 of Winter Harbour, and the variation of the com- 
 pass 134° S'i: 9.0" east. 
 
 We had reason to consider ourselves very fortu- 
 nate in having been able to determine these points 
 in so short a time, and in so unfavourable weather. 
 We were no less successful in cutting through the 
 ice, for although we had no other instruments 
 but the boarding pikes to dig with, we succeeded 
 in getting through it by ten o'clock, P. M. Its 
 thickness exceeded any floe ice that we have seen 
 in these regions before, being no less than four- 
 teen feet four inches, and it likewise appeared to 
 be of a firmer texture than what we have usually 
 seen before, being as blue as any berg-ice, and 
 equally as compact. The water that rushed 
 through it did not taste very salt; it was suf- 
 ficiently so, however, to distinguish it to be that 
 
TO TITE ARCTIC REGIOXS. 211 
 
 of the ocean, so that we had now all the proof that 
 could be adduced, that we had reached the sea, 
 and by that means fully accomplished the object 
 of our expedition. 
 
 And as we may fairly claim the honour of being 
 the discoverers of this coast, Mr. Parry took this op- 
 portunity of establishing our right to that honour, 
 by naming the different remarkable places that were 
 seen on this occasion. The hills that I mentioned 
 as having been seen on the night of the fifth instant, 
 bearing then, from north by east, to the eastward 
 of us, appear now to be a separate island, which 
 he has named Sabine Island. The northern ex- 
 tremity of the blue hills that have been so fre- 
 quently mentioned in the course of our journey, 
 he has done me the honour of naming after me. 
 Cape Fisher. It bore N. W. of us, distant, as 
 near as we could judge at the time, six or seven 
 leagues ; from the view that we had of it, it ap- 
 peared to be very bold, and of a considerable 
 height. The point on which we pitched our tents, 
 he named after one of the gentlemen of the party. 
 Point Nias, and another point of land, a few miles 
 to the eastward of this, he named Point Reid, 
 after another gentleman of our party ; and a large 
 bay, lying between Cape Fisher and Point Nias, 
 was named after the ships, Hecla and Griper's 
 Bay. These were the different places that were 
 distinguished with names on this occasion, and as 
 the weather was fine and clear in the evening, we 
 ■had a very excellent view of them, and angles 
 were taken, from which their situation will be 
 correctly laid down in the chart, or rather the map 
 
 p a 
 
'2V2 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 of our travels. Before I conclude my diary of 
 this day's events, I must mention one circum- 
 stance more, which, although trivial in itself, 
 deserves to be noticed, inasmuch as it tends to 
 shew, that although this shore is at present blocked 
 up with such heavy ice, yet that there are times 
 when there is open water here. The circum- 
 stance that I allude to is a piece of fir-wood seven 
 feet and a half long, and about the thickness of a 
 man's arm, that was found between seventy and 
 eighty yards (inland) from the hum,mocks on the 
 beach,, and at least five and twenty or thirty feet 
 above the level of the sea. Most part of it was 
 buried in the ground, and it appeared, indeed, to 
 have lain there for a considerable time, for the 
 earth had penetrated in between the fibres of it, so 
 that when it was dug up it separated into distinct 
 filaments, according to the grain of the wood. 
 
 Thursday^ 8th. — We packed up our tents at 
 half-past two o'clock this morning, and took the 
 cart up to the top of an eminence about half a 
 mile from the beach, where we had determined 
 yesterday to build a monument ; but, owing to the 
 weather being so bad in the forenoon, and the 
 cutting of the hole in the ice occupied so much 
 of our time in the afternoon, that we were obliged 
 to defer it until this morning ; it did not delay us 
 long, however, for there were so many stones on 
 the spot that we had selected, that we finished it 
 by four o'clock. It is of a circular form, and of 
 the following dimensions, namely, twelve feet in 
 diameter at the base, and about twelve feet high. 
 In a small apartment that we made in the centre 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 213 
 
 of it, we deposited a tin cylinder containing a slip 
 of parchment, on which was written a brief ac- 
 count to the same purport, as I have already men- 
 tioned, that was on the papers that we left at other 
 places where we halted. Along with the cylinder 
 we also left a sixpence coined in I8I7, a penny- 
 piece, bearing the date of the year 1797» and a 
 half-penny dated I8O7, and several naval uniform 
 buttons were likewise put there by some of the 
 men. 
 
 I mentioned two days ago, that the stone chiefly 
 met with on this side of the island, is sandstone, 
 and of this we had to-day a very convincing proof; 
 for the point on which we erected the monument 
 being our farthest north, we were all desirous of 
 taking something back from it ; and, as nothing 
 was to be found on it but stones, our choice was 
 necessarily confined. But we had no idea, until we 
 began to examine the place, that it afforded so 
 few varieties ; for, after the most dihgent search, 
 nothing was to be met with but sandstone, except 
 one small piece of granite, which we divided into 
 specimens. 
 
 The object of our expedition being now accom^ 
 plished in every respect, we began our journey 
 back at four o'clock in the morning. As our route 
 to the northward was on a tract so barren of 
 interest, it is intended not to return in that direc- 
 tion, but to go to the blue hills so often mention- 
 ed, where we may expect to meet some variety, 
 and as they run nearly north and south, our going 
 along them will not take us much out of our wayj 
 and even if it would, we have plenty of provisions. 
 
 p S 
 
Q14f A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 to return with. Our course, therefore, after we 
 started this morning, was to the southward and 
 westward, for a considerable part of the way along 
 the south-eastern coast of Hecla and Griper's Bay. 
 The weather was so cold that it froze the water in 
 our canteens, and one of them was burst in con- 
 sequence. We pitched our tents again at seven 
 o'clock, on the side of a dry sandy hill, the top 
 of which we found to be full of holes, like a rab- 
 bit warren ; most probably fox burrows. At this 
 place also we found a ptarmigan : so that we may 
 already say, that we have met with more to interest 
 us than we did during the last three days of our 
 journey to the northward. The latitude of this 
 place we found, by meridian altitude, to be 7<5° 
 33' 55" N. ; and longitude by chronometer V 23'' 5, 
 W. of the ships. 
 
 We resumed our journey again at half-past five 
 o'clock in the afternoon, and continued on the 
 march until half past eleven. Our route during 
 this day's journey was for the most part over plains, 
 the greatest part of which were covered with snow : 
 as we came along, however, we found that the 
 parts that were clear of it, improved very much in 
 their appearance ; for vegetation was, in some 
 places, well advanced, especially in those places 
 where the ground was moist from the dissolution 
 of the snow. In course of our journey, this even- 
 ing, we shot a ptarmigan, and saw two geese of 
 the same kind as those that were seen on the Gth 
 
 instant. 
 
 Friday, dth. — We started again a quarter after 
 
 three o'clock this morning, directing our course 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 215 
 
 niore to the southward, in order to keep oh a ridge 
 of rising ground, that is almost clear of snow, and 
 leading to the Blue Hills. As our route, for most 
 part of the way, was over such good travelling 
 ground, we got, by seven o'clock, to the foot of 
 these hills; where we pitched our tents on the top" 
 of a fine dry eminence ; from which, we had a to- 
 lerable good view of the plain to the northward 
 aud westward of us. We shot three ptarmigans 
 at this place, two of which were hens, and had the 
 colour of their plumage so much changed, that a 
 person would hardly suppose them to be the same 
 kind of bird as those that we killed about a week 
 ago ; for the belly was the only part of them that 
 was white; the head, neck, back, and upper side 
 of the wings, and the tail, being nearly of the 
 same colour as a partridge. The cock was per- 
 fectly white, as before. In the course of our trip, 
 this morning, we saw, for the first time this season, 
 ' a running stream of water; and we passed several 
 large pools of it in the ravines that we crossed. 
 We found the lat. of the place of our encampment 
 to-day, by meridian altitude, to be 75° 26' 43'' N. 
 and long., by chronometer, 53' 37" 5 W. of Win- 
 ter Harbour. The weather," to-day, was ex- 
 tremely fine, with a light air of wind from the 
 southward and westward. The men employed 
 themselves, during their respective watches, to-day, 
 washing their flannels, stockings, and such other 
 articles as they had dirty; which were all per- 
 fectly dry by half-past five o'clock in the after- 
 noon ; the time that we started again. Our route 
 this evening was sometimes across plains and 
 
 p 4 
 
216 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 valleys, and at other times, over hills; in the 
 former, we find it now rather heavy travelling ; for 
 the snow is melting so rapidly, that the land is, in 
 these places, completely saturated with water. 
 The progress of vegetation is astonishingly quick : 
 the sorrel is already so far advanced, that we picked 
 enough, during our march this evening, to afford 
 us some refreshment. The ground that we came 
 over to-day must be, at times, well stocked with 
 deer; for we passed a great many of their horns ; 
 and their old tracks Vv'ere very numerous. We 
 killed two ptarmigans in the course of the evening, 
 and two or three more were seen. Between nine 
 and ten o'clock the weather became hazy, with 
 occasional light showers of snow: we continued on 
 the march, however, until a quarter before eleven 
 o'clock. 
 
 Saturday i 10th. — We resumed our journey again 
 a quarter before three o'clock in the morning, 
 and continued on the march until a quarter after 
 seven. Our route was, as I mentioned yesterday, 
 over hills and plains ; we also crossed several ra- 
 vines, some of which we found a little difficulty in 
 passing, especially one or two, for the snow in 
 them is now so thoroughly soaked with water, that 
 the cart sunk into it lip to the naves. The wea- 
 ther was so thick this forenoon that we could see 
 no great distance, and even if it were clear, I 
 believe our view would not be so extensive as we 
 thought it would when we saw these hills at a dis- 
 tance ; for they are so nearly of a height, that every 
 little rising obstructs the prospect from one over 
 the other. The plains on their top are yet almost 
 15 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 217 
 
 entirely covered with snow; we came across one of 
 these this morning, that was several miles in ex- 
 tent, whicli had scarcely a single black spot on it. 
 The only animals we saw during this march were 
 four arctic gulls (Larii Paracitici) flying to the 
 eastward. Our latitude by meridian altitude to- 
 day was 75° 20' 54" N. 
 
 We started again at half-past five in the after- 
 noon, but the w^eather was so bad that we were 
 obliged to halt again at half-after nine ; for it blew 
 very fresh indeed from the south-east, and snowed 
 so incessantly that it was impossible to see dis- 
 tinctly thirty yards before us. We were fortunate, 
 however, in getting a good place to pitch our 
 tents in, for we got into a very deep ravine that 
 afforded us excellent shelter, and there happened 
 to be plenty of slatey sandstone in the same place, 
 with which we paved the floor of our tents. In 
 the north side of this ravine there was an immense 
 accumulation of snow ; great pieces, or avalanches 
 of it, which had broken ofi^, were lying at the 
 bottom of the ravine. I have hitherto omitted to 
 mention that, since we got into the neighbourhood 
 of these hills, and particularly since we got on 
 them, we have found a considerable difference in 
 the mineralogical productions of the parts that we 
 have travelled over, sandstone is indeed the pre- 
 dominant mineral, for all the fixed rocks that we 
 have seen are entirely composed of it ; but we fre- 
 quently meet with pieces of granite, quartz, and 
 felspar, and sometimes hornblende. The sand- 
 stone is remarkably schistose, being frequently as 
 
218 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 thin as roofing slate ; solid blocks of it, indeed, are 
 rarely to be met with of any considerable size. 
 
 . Sunday, Wth. — The weather cleared up this 
 morning, the wind having veered round to the 
 N. W. We therefore packed up our tents and rie- 
 sumed our journey at five o'clock. Our first out- 
 set was up the south side of the ravine in which 
 we slept last night ; this we found to be an under- 
 taking that required all our exertions, for it was 
 so steep, that it took us nearly three-quarters of an 
 hour to get the cart up. Our route afterwards 
 was for about three hours over a plain covered 
 with snow. It appeared to be of a considerable 
 height, for we had a very extensive view from it 
 in every direction. After we got to the end of this 
 plain, a very romantic prospect presented itself to 
 our view all at once ; for we beheld at the foot of 
 the plain, and about two or three miles to the 
 south-eastward of it, a very extensive sheet of ice, 
 with an island about three-quarters of a mile in 
 length, rising abruptly from the middle of it to 
 the height of six or seven hundred feet. The 
 shores of this lake, or gulf (for we were unable at 
 this time to say which it was) appeared to be very 
 rugged and precipitant, particularly on the north- 
 west side, or that which we were on. We con- 
 tinued to approach it until ten o'clock, when, going 
 down the side of a steep and rough hill that lay 
 on the north side of it, the axle-tree of the cart 
 snapt in two, in the middle. As this was an injury 
 that we had no possible means of repairing, it re- 
 quired no time to consider what was to be done ; 
 we therefore got every thing immediately taken 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS* ^19 
 
 off it, and carried down to a valley at the foot of 
 the hill. It was at first intended to break the 
 wheels up for fire-wood, but on reconsideration it 
 was found that the body of the cart would afford 
 as much fuel as we were likely to require ; the 
 wheels and axle were therefore left, for future 
 travellers (if any should pass that way) to see that 
 they were not the first adventurers that passed 
 over these rocky mountains. Although the loss of 
 the ciirt was a thing by no means to be wished for, 
 yet we did not consider it in any way in the light 
 of a disaster ; for what provisions remained we 
 found to be no more than what we could manage 
 to carry very well, when properly divided amongst 
 officers, and all. 
 
 Had the accident occurred indeed when we 
 were on the north side of the island, it might have 
 put us to some inconvenience, but we have reason 
 to think, that, instead of its retarding our progress 
 at present, we shall get on much quicker without 
 the cart, for the ground has been getting gradually 
 worse for travelling every day for some time past, 
 and there is every chance of its continuing to do 
 so. 
 
 From the top of the hill on the side of which 
 the cart broke down, we could see " Table Hill,'* 
 or at least, a hill which we have every reason to 
 suppose from its bearing and estimated distance 
 to be it ; for our latitude by meridian altitude at 
 noon to-day, was 75° 12' 50" N., and longitude by 
 chronometer 1° 00' 31'' 5 W. of Winter Harbour* : 
 
 * The variation of the compass at this place was found to be 
 125° 01' 52" E. 
 
2^0 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 and the hill in question was alM'ays judged to be 
 between six and seven miles from the ships^ After 
 we had pitched our tents, and got every thing that 
 was on the cart down to them, we supped and lay 
 down to rest until the evening, when we began to 
 make preparations for resuming our journey. All 
 the provisions, tents, and indeed every article of 
 public property, were weighed, and equitably dis- 
 tributed amongst the officers and, men according 
 to their supposed strength. I am sorry to say, 
 however, that, notwithstanding the necessity there 
 was on this occasion, for every person to take 
 some share of the public burden, there was one 
 amongst us who did not offer to carry a single 
 article but his own private property ; his name I 
 forbear to mention, nor would I indeed notice the 
 circumstance at all, were it not in justice to the 
 rest of the party to say of them, that, instead of 
 showing any inclination to imitate such a glaring 
 instance of a want of public spirit, it appeared to 
 stimulate them to emulate one another in their 
 exertions. 
 
 Monday, 12th. — We struck the tents at two 
 o'clock this morning, every thing else being by 
 this time packed up that we intended to take with 
 us. What we left indeed were things of very 
 little use, such as empty canteens, and meat-cases, 
 in which we used to carry water, and wash in ; 
 some spare ammunition was also left, and a few 
 other things that were deemed useless. The pole 
 of the cart was set up against the side of a wall 
 that we built yesterday to shelter the tents from 
 the wind, and at the foot of this pole we deposited 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ^21 
 
 the tin-cases and canteens, and indeed every thing 
 else that was left.* We began our journey at half- 
 past two o'clock, and about three reached the 
 shore of the gulf, or lake before mentioned, our 
 route was from this time until five o'clock along 
 the foot of the mountains that bound the north- 
 western side of it at this place. During this part 
 of our march we saw several ptarmigans, two or 
 three of which we shot, and on a pool of open 
 water, close to the beach, we saw a couple of 
 geese of the same kind as those that we saw on 
 the north side of the island. A raven was also 
 seen in the course of the morning and some bank 
 swallows. The rocks that we came along the foot 
 of this morning were composed of sandstone, but 
 different in character from that which we met with 
 in the ravines that we have been passing for some 
 days past, for it existed in large blocks. At five 
 o'clock we came to a low point, from which we 
 had a good view of the extent and direction of the 
 gulf, or lake, as it extended inland. Of its extent, 
 indeed, we could form no certain judgment, as we 
 could not see the termination of it; but with re- 
 spect to its direction we found that it ran to the 
 northward and eastward, or rather between north- 
 east and east. After having seen that going round 
 the top or north-east end of it, would take us very 
 much out of our way, it was determined to ven- 
 ture directly across it from this point j but as we 
 had already been nearly three hours on the march, 
 
 * We deposited a cylinder here which contained a piece of 
 parchment, on which was written the same information as on 
 those that we left at the different places already mentioned. 
 
^:-22 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 it was deemed to be too great an exertion to at- 
 tempt crossing it without halting, the distance at 
 the narrowest part being estimated to be at least 
 six or seven miles, and as this could not be done 
 conveniently on the ice, our only alternatives were 
 to rest where we were, or to go to the island men- 
 tioned yesterday, which we considered to be about 
 halfway across, and not lying much out of the 
 direction that we wished to go. We therefore 
 started for the island a few minutes after five 
 o'clock, and arrived there at seven. A few 
 minutes after we landed there, we discovered that 
 this large sheet of water, which we were hitherto 
 in doubt whether it was a lake or an arm of the 
 sea, is actually the latter, for one of us which hap- 
 pened to take up a pot-full of water out of a pool 
 on the ice close to the beach, found that it was 
 very brackish, which decided the point quite to 
 our satisfaction ; very little doubt, indeed, re- 
 mained on our mind respecting it before, for we 
 found as we came along hummocks of ice thrown 
 up in different places on the shore, a thing which 
 we could hardly suppose would happen if it was a 
 lake. We found the island to be composed, like 
 the adjacent hills, of sandstone, and very barren. 
 It is about three-quarters of a mile in length, from 
 north north-west to south south-east ; and nearly 
 of the same breadth. It rises perpendicularly from 
 the sea on the west side to the height of six or 
 seven hundred feet, and the ascent to it, indeed, 
 on every other side is pretty steep. From the top 
 of it there was a very good view of the gulf to 
 the westward, or, in other words, towards its 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. Q23 
 
 mouth, for it runs nearly east and west. The two 
 capes that form the entrance of it are, I under- 
 stand, to be called Cgpe Beechey, and Cape Happ- 
 ner, after the two officers of these names belong- 
 ing to the expedition. The distance between 
 these capes and the island was estimated to be from 
 six to seven leagues, and the average breadth of 
 the gulf beyond the island to the westward be- 
 tween four and five leagues. The gulf itself is to 
 be named Liddon's Gulf, in compliment to the 
 commander of the Griper ; and a bold promontory 
 on the north side of it is to be called Cape Ed- 
 wards, after the principal medical officer of the 
 expedition j and the island is to be named Hooper's 
 Island, after the officer of that name belonging to 
 the Hecla. In speaking of the mineralogy of 
 Hooper's Island, I omitted to mention that we 
 found several pieces of crystallised carbonate of 
 lime on it, small pieces of quartz and felspar were 
 also met with, and it is probable that if we had 
 time to examine it more minutely we should meet 
 with many other varieties j and it is not in minerals 
 only, that it promised to be an interesting place ; 
 it seemed to be a great resort for birds, for we 
 saw several ptarmigans on it, and a great many of 
 the geese so often mentioned in the course of our 
 journey, were seen on the pools of water that lay 
 off it. Of these birds we managed to shoot four 
 during our stay, and found them to be brent geese 
 (Anas Bernklay Lin.) They weighed about four 
 pounds each, at least that was the weight of the 
 first one that we shot, and the rest appeared to be 
 about tlie same size. The latitude of 'the place where 
 
S24 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 the tents were pitched was found by meridian alti- 
 tude to be 75° 05' 08" N., and longitude by chro- 
 nometer r 08' 03" W. of Winter Harbour. » We 
 left the island at half-past six, and directed our 
 course to the nearest part of the land on the south- 
 east side of the gulf, where we arrived at half-past 
 eight. 
 
 On reaching the shore we saw two reindeer, 
 and some ptarmigans, but we could not, nor indeed 
 did we try much to get near them, for the ice 
 where we crossed it this morning was so deeply 
 covered with snow, that every person appeared to 
 be pretty well fatigued by the time we landed. 
 The land on this side of the gulf, we found to be, 
 comparatively speaking, low, and less covered with 
 snow than on the opposite side. After crossing a 
 piece of rising ground near where we landed, we 
 entered into a fine open valley leading to the south- 
 ward and eastward. In the N. W. side of it there 
 was a lagoon, about three quarters of a mile in 
 circumference ; it communicated with the gulf by 
 a channel about fifty yards in breadth, across which 
 we travelled. On the top of a small eminence, 
 about thirty feet above the level of the sea, and 
 close to the entrance of the lagoon, we found a 
 piece of fir wood about two feet long, and at the 
 thickest end about the same circumference. We 
 found the skeleton of a musk-ox here also, and 
 several reindeer's horns were seen as we came 
 along. There was every appearance indeed of 
 this valley being very much frequented by these 
 
 * The variation of the compass on this island was found to 
 be 122° 59' 37" E. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ^"25 
 
 animals, for their tracks were very numerous, and 
 even without these indications it might be inferred 
 that it is a place likely to be resorted to both by 
 deer, and musk-oxen, for it afforded the best pas- 
 turage of any place that I have yet seen on this 
 island. At eleven o'clock we pitched our tents, 
 and dined. 
 
 Tuesday, 1 Sth. — Instead of resuming our jour- 
 ney this morning, as usual after dinner, it was 
 determined not to start until the evening, in order 
 to employ the forenoon in examining the valley 
 and the shore of the gulf, in this neighbourhood, 
 more particularly, as being places where we were 
 likely to meet some objects of interest; and the 
 sequel will show that our anticipations were re- 
 alized, and consequently that our delay was amply 
 repaid. Our success in the sporting way was not 
 indeed so great as we expected, for a few ptarmi- 
 gans and a golden-plover were all that we killed ; 
 but we had the satisfaction of finding, that much 
 more may be done, for we saw no less than thirteen 
 deer in one herd, and a musk-ox was also seen for 
 the first time tliis season ; but what is still more 
 interesting, we found that this island had been 
 inhabited at some period or other : for we found 
 the remains of six Esquimaux huts, at the distance 
 of two hundred and fifty, or three hundred yards 
 from the beach, on a stony eminence on the south- 
 east side of the valley. They resembled, in every 
 respect, the ruins that we met with, and were 
 described on the 28th of last August, as also the 
 Esquimaux huts that we saw the year before in 
 Baffin's Bay ; being composed of rough stones, and 
 
226 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 of a rude oblong figure, about eight feet long, and 
 five or six feet broad, besides a place about two feet 
 square, at the end of each, which I have been told, 
 is the place where the Esquimaux keep their provi- 
 sions. Detached from the huts, we found a square 
 place between two and three feet each way, which 
 we supposed to have been the cooking place of the 
 whole party. At a little distance from this there 
 was another rectangular place, the use of which 
 we could form no idea of ; it was about three feet 
 long and one foot broad, and filled to the depth of 
 six or seven inches with ptarmigans' dung. How 
 long it is since these huts were inhabited, it is im- 
 possible to say, but it must have been many years 
 ago, for the flags with which they were paved were 
 covered with moss, and the exposed sides of the 
 stones that composed the walls were all covered 
 with lichen. But whatever the length of time may 
 be since they were inhabited, it is probable that 
 those who did inhabit them were not strangers to 
 this coast, for they certainly chose the most eligible 
 spot for game that we have seen in this country. 
 The geographical site of these huts was nearly 
 as follows, viz. lat. 7<5° 2' 37" N., and longitude, 
 by chronometer, 48' 48" west of Winter Harbour ; 
 I have said nearly, because the observations from 
 which these results were obtained were made at 
 the tents, which were about half a mile inland of 
 the huts. The variation of the compass was found 
 here to be 126" 1' 48'' easterly. Every object that 
 we had in view at this place, being at length 
 accomplished, we packed up, and resumed our 
 journey at six o'clock in the evening, the weather 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 2^7 
 
 being at the time hazy, with a fresh breeze of wind 
 from the S. S. E. We had not been above an hour 
 on the march, when it came on to snow ; we con- 
 tinued on our way, however, vmtil nearly eight, 
 thinking that the weather would, perhaps, clear 
 up ; but, on finding then that there was no ap- 
 pearance of it, we pitched our tents to secure a dry 
 spot before it was too late. 
 
 Wednesday t I4fth. — The weather having cleared 
 up about four o'clock, we began immediately to 
 prepare for our journey, and in rather less than 
 twenty minutes we were again on the march. 
 About five o'clock, the weather became fine and 
 clear, so that we had an excellent view of the 
 rocky precipices on the north side of Liddon's 
 Gulf; and shortly after we saw Table Hill, which 
 we kept in sight, and towards which we directed 
 our course until we stopped at eight o'clock. The 
 surface of the country that we passed over this 
 this morning, was, generally speaking, even, but 
 not level, for it rose gradually as we went along to 
 the southward and eastward. A very considerable 
 portion, I think, indeed, nearly one half the sur- 
 face of the land, is now clear of snow. 
 
 This has been one of the finest days that we 
 have had this summer, for it was for some part of 
 the time warmer than we could wish it. Our 
 latitude, to-day, at noon, was 74° 53' 55" N., and 
 with respect to our longitude, it is not an object 
 worth being mentioned now, for we are so near 
 Table Hill, that we expect to reach it in our next 
 journey. We started again a little before six 
 o'clock in the evening, and directed our course, 
 
 Q 2 
 
228 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 as before, towards Table Hill, which we reached 
 about twenty minutes before ten, and pitched our 
 tents at the foot of it. Our route was, during this 
 march, over ground of the same nature as that 
 which we passed in the forenoon, with this differ- 
 ence, however, that it was much more difficult to 
 travel over, for it is so completely saturated with 
 water, that we frequently sank into it up to the 
 ankle, and sometimes farther, and even in the 
 driest parts of it we went down an inch or two; in 
 short, we avoided the black ground to-day as much 
 as we sought it ten days ago. We observed, 
 during this day's march, a considerable difference 
 in the mineralogical character of the country, for 
 instead of the whitish sandstone that prevailed so 
 abundantly from Liddon*s Gulf to the north side 
 of the island, we found to-day, that the kind of 
 stone we generally met with had a greenish tinge, 
 and of a loose or disintegrated texture, like the 
 sandstone in the ravines near Winter Harbour. 
 Small pieces of granite, quartz, and felspar, were 
 pretty frequently met with to-day, and when we 
 got within a couple of miles of Table Hill, we 
 began to meet limestone. Vegetation is now in a 
 very flourishing condition, the sorrel is very far 
 advanced, and there is a species of saxifrage 
 {oppositifolia) beginning to blossom. 
 
 Thursday J 15th. — After taking a few hours' rest, 
 we all turned (at two o'clock) to build a monu- 
 ment on the top of Table Hill *, which we finished 
 
 • As this hill is a conspicuous object at a very considerable 
 distance, its geographical position deserves to be mentioned. 
 
 13 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 229 
 
 by six. It is of a circular form, ten feet in diame- 
 ter at the base, and about eleven feet high. In 
 the centre of it we deposited an empty Donkin*s 
 meat-canister, containing a shp of parchment, on 
 which was written the same brief notice that was 
 on the pieces that we left at the other places that 
 I have already mentioned, viz. " This was depo- 
 sited here by a party from his Majesty's ships 
 Hecla and Griper, who wintered on this island in 
 1819 and 1820." In building it we left also a 
 small passage, leading on an inclined plane from 
 the outside to the centre, through which it is in- 
 tended to convey a cylinder (that is to be sent out 
 from the ship*), in which will be a paper giving a 
 more detailed account of our stay, and object in 
 visiting these regions, &c. As it was apprehended 
 that we should find it disagreeable to travel in the 
 heat of the day, instead of setting off to the ships 
 after we had finished the monument, we retired, as 
 usual, to rest. We broke up our encampment 
 again, for the last time, at a quarter after three 
 o'clock in the afternoon, and got on board by seven 
 
 It was obtained from observations made at the monument that 
 we erected on the top of it, viz. 
 
 Latitude by meridian altitude 74^ 48' 33" N. 
 
 Longitude by chronometer - 23 04 W. of the ships. 
 
 Variation of the compass 123 16 01 E. 
 
 * This cylinder was sent out after our return; and in the en- 
 trance of the hole through which it was conveyed, there was 
 fixed a copper-plate, on which was punched the names of the 
 ships, and the date of the year. I may remark, also, in this 
 place, that a similar plate was fixed on the south-west side of 
 the pile that was erected on North-East Hill, near Winter 
 Harbour. 
 
 q3 
 
230 A VOYAGE Ol' DISCOVERY 
 
 in the evening, where we were received with every 
 demonstration of a hearty welcome ; after having 
 performed a journey of at least one hundred and 
 eighty miles, for, by the most moderate comput- 
 ation, I think that we must have averaged twelve 
 miles a-day. In giving the account of this journey, 
 I am perfectly aware that I have been more minute 
 in many instances than the subject that I was 
 treating deserved ; but I thought that, by attempt- 
 ing to cull it, I might omit some circumstances that 
 deserved to be mentioned. I have, therefore, given 
 the whole almost verbatim from the notes that I 
 made at the time on the spot. 
 
 Friday^ l6th, — Nothing occurred on board 
 worthy of particular notice during the time we 
 were away ; getting the'ballast in, and re-stowing 
 the holds, were, I believe, the principal things 
 done during our absence. A very great difference 
 however, hastaken place in the state of the country 
 around Winter Harbour, for those parts that were 
 covered with snow when we went away, are now 
 abounding with plants of various kinds beginning 
 to blossom ; in fact, the aspect of the country is. 
 so much changed, that, were w^e not so thoroughly 
 acquainted with every place in this neighbour- 
 hood, we should hardly recognise some parts 
 of it again. The ice in the harbour has got con- 
 siderably thinner, but there is no part of it open 
 yet, nor is there any appearance indeed of its 
 breaking up for some time. As there is no imme- 
 diate prospect, therefore, of our leaving this place 
 for some time, it is intended to send a party from 
 each ship with ten or twelve days* provisions, in 
 order to try what they can do in the way of pro- 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ^31 
 
 curing game for the use of the expedition. Each 
 party are to take tents with them of the same kind 
 as we had on our late journey, so that they can 
 easily remove them from one place to another, 
 according as they find game more or less abundant 
 in different situations. The party from the Hecla 
 are to consist of three officers and three men, and 
 as I am appointed to be one of it, my narrative 
 of the events that may happen on board, must be 
 again interrupted until our return. We started 
 from the ship at half past eleven o'clock in the 
 evening, accompanied by an officer and three men, 
 who were sent to assist us in carrying the tents and 
 provisions, &c. We directed our course to the 
 eastward, for we learnt from a party that went 
 out on an excursion in that direction some days 
 ago, that they saw a great many geese on some 
 lakes on the west side of what is commonly called 
 Bounty Cape. * We got out there between five 
 and six o'clock next morning, and pitched our 
 tents on the top of a dry eminence, which we es- 
 timated to be from eight to nine miles from the 
 ships. A regular diary of all the circumstances 
 that occurred from this period until our return 
 again on board, would be so crowded with 
 repetitions about things of so little interest, 
 that even the reading of it would be more 
 apt to be considered a tedious task, than a 
 source of pleasure or information. Under this 
 
 * This name was first given by the men to that remarkable 
 headland that is situated near the 110th degree of longitude, 
 in consequence of that meridian being that for which the first 
 feward is given ; and, I understand, from the name being so 
 Very appropriate, that it is to be confirmed. 
 
 Q 4 
 
2S'i A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 impression, therefore, I shall deviate from my 
 former plan of giving the occurrences of every day 
 separately, in the order in which they happened, 
 and endeavour to comprise and arrange every thing 
 worthy of notice under different heads, in regular 
 succession. In the first place, then, with respect 
 to the country, although we were out here only 
 ten days, it was surprising to see the great change 
 that took place, for on first going out we found 
 the greatest part of the low land covered with 
 snow, and the streams of water that flowed from 
 it, had not then formed into any regular channels, 
 but were spread all over the plains near the coast, 
 making them as it were one entire swamp. Before 
 we came in, however, these swamps had in a great 
 measure been drained of their water, which formed 
 three or four streams (within the space of five or 
 six miles) that we used generally to distinguish 
 them by the name of rivers, and one or two of 
 them indeed were of such magnitude for some 
 time, as not to be altogether undeserving the ap- 
 pellation. These streams passed through many 
 small lakes, which appeared generally to be very 
 shallow. We saw two or three lakes, however, 
 amongst the mountains, which, from the character 
 of the land around them, we had reason to sup- 
 pose were of considerable depth ; and I remarked 
 this difference between them, that the lakes on the 
 low land were clear of ice, whilst those amongst the 
 hills were almost entirely covered with it. Vegeta- 
 tion was very far advanced indeed by the time that 
 we returned, for some spots where there was 
 moisture and good soil, the grass was from two to 
 three inches long ; and the sorrel was so abundant 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 233 
 
 that we used in a few minutes to collect enough 
 to make a sallad every day to our dinner. With 
 respect to the mineralogical character of those parts 
 that we traversed over, I observed nothing diffe- 
 rent from that seen in the immediate neighbourhood 
 of Winter Harbour, viz. sandstone, composing the 
 whole of the fixed rocks, and the greatest part of 
 the loose stones also ; granite, limestone, and 
 small pieces of red felspar were frequently met 
 with, but these formed but a very small proportion 
 indeed, when compared with the quantity of sand- 
 stone that was seen. Having thus taken a cursory 
 review of the mineral and vegetable pro uctions 
 that we had an opportunity of seeing, my next 
 object is to notice the different kinds of animals 
 that we saw. The deer were not so numerous as 
 we expected to find them, for two dozen, or thirty 
 at most, were as many as we saw the whole time 
 we were out, and of these we only succeeded in 
 killing two ; this we attributed in a great measure 
 to the shyness of the does, for they were so careful 
 of their young, that there was no possibility of 
 getting near them. The two deer that we killed 
 were very lean, for although they appeared to be 
 full-grown, the first one weighed only 54 lbs. when 
 skinned and cleaned, and the other which we got 
 about a week after 64 lbs. Their horns were not 
 above nine or ten inches in length ; they were 
 covered with a soft skin, which had a fine downy 
 coat ; their tips were flexible, but if bent much, 
 were easily broken ; the substance of the horns 
 were very porous, and full of blood. The colour 
 not only of these two, but indeed of all the deer 
 we saw, was white, with the exception of a light 
 
St34 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVEllY 
 
 ash-coloured patch on their back ; but the fawns 
 appeared to be entirely of that colour. The next 
 animals I ought to mention, if I take them accord- 
 ing to their size, are a couple of wolves which we 
 saw one afternoon ; but as we had but a distant 
 view of them, I can say nothing about them. We 
 had also a distant view, two or three times, of some 
 foxes ; the only thing in which they appeared to 
 differ from those that were caught during the win- 
 ter was, in their having a black patch on their 
 sides a little before their hind quarters. 
 
 We saw several hares during the time we were 
 out, of which we killed four ; their average weight 
 was from seven to eight pounds ; they were per- 
 fectly white, with the exception of the tips of their 
 ears, which were black. These were all the varie- 
 ties of quadrupeds that we saw, and of the feathered 
 tribe the number was not much greater. Brent 
 geese, king ducks, and long-tailed ducks, arctic 
 and glaucous gulls, comprised the whole of the 
 aquatic birds that we saw ; and a few ptarmigans, 
 plovers, sanderlings, and snow-buntings, were all 
 the land birds that were seen. The geese were, 
 the first two or three days after we went out, pretty 
 numerous, but, on finding themselves disturbed, 
 most of them went away, and those that remained 
 secured themselves by keeping in the middle of 
 two or three large lakes, where our shot would not 
 reach them ; we succeeded, however, in killing a 
 dozen of them during the time we were out. The 
 ducks were not numerous, so that our success in 
 that way was very trifling. With respect to the 
 ptarmigans, I believe all were killed that were 
 seen, viz. fifteen ; and, if fifty times the number 
 
TO thp: arctic regions. ^S5 
 
 had been seen, I believe we might have killed 
 them all, for they are as stupid as any birds I ever 
 saw. These are all the circumstances that occurred 
 during our ten days* excursion, that deserve to be 
 mentioned ; and I am not sure, indeed, that they 
 are of sufficient importance to claim so much 
 notice as I have taken of them. As soon as we 
 returned on board, another party was sent out for 
 the same purpose as we were on, with ten days 
 more provisions. 
 
 Tuesday y ^Z'^th, — With respect to the events 
 that occurred on board during the time we were 
 away, they have been of so little consequence that 
 they do not deserve to be noticed. The ice on 
 the harbour has decayed indeed, very considerably 
 during these ten days past ; it is covered now with 
 pools of water along shore, and at the places where 
 the streams of water from the ravines discharge 
 themselves into the harbour, it is quite detached 
 from the beach. The land is now completely 
 clear of snow, with the exception of what there is 
 in the ravines, and that is dissolving very rapidly 
 indeed ; for the torrents of water that run down 
 them, exceed any thing of the kind that we have 
 seen in these regions before. The surface of the 
 country now presents a very pleasing appearance ; 
 some parts of it, in particular, abound with such 
 abundance of purple-coloured saxifrage in blos- 
 som, that even persons accustomed to a better 
 climate than we have been for some time past, 
 could not help admiring it j but to us, who experi- 
 enced, and who have so recently emerged from the 
 dreary scene of an arctic winter, it will naturally 
 appear more delightful. The sorrel is, however, 
 
^36 A VOYAGE or DISCOVERY 
 
 the only vegetable production from which we 
 derive any benefit ; but from it we have a very 
 abundant supply of a most useful, and very palat- 
 able article of diet. All the men are sent on 
 shore twice a-week, viz. on Sunday and Thursday, 
 to gather it, and what they collect, after being 
 mixed with vinegar, is served out to them regu- 
 larly. * Notwithstanding every attention has been 
 paid to the different seeds that were sown in the 
 gardens, I believe that we shall receive but very 
 little benefit from the produce of them, for their 
 growth is very tardy indeed. 
 
 Friday y 30th. — At two o'clock this morning 
 departed this life, William Scott, boatswain's 
 mate, who had been ill for some months past, first 
 with scurvy, and afterwards with diarrhoea, and 
 general debility. He was considered a very good 
 and quiet man, and I am told an excellent seaman ; 
 but, unfortunately, it is said that he was rather 
 addicted to spirits. Whether a consciousness of 
 this failing preyed on his mind or not, I cannot 
 pretend to say; but he was often observed to be 
 very low-spirited, which amounted sometimes, 
 during his illness, to hypochondriasm. 
 
 Sunday i July 9.d. — Immediately after divine 
 service this forenoon, his body was taken on shore, 
 and interred on a plain between two and three 
 hundred yards from the beach. Almost the whole 
 of the officers and men of both ships attended on 
 
 * As a considerable quantity of the lemon-juice has been, 
 as I have already remarked, destroyed by the frost during the 
 winter, it has, of course become an object of importance to 
 economise what remains, and as the sorrel that is gathered is 
 considered to be a good substitute for it, the serving of it out 
 has for the present been suspended. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 237 
 
 this occasion, to perform this last duty that we owe 
 one another ; we all walked two and two, in regu- 
 lar procession, and in the order which is always 
 observed on these occasions. * 
 
 Friday y ^th, — The weather has been remark- 
 ably fine since the beginning of this month, the ice 
 on the harbour is now full of holes in the neigh- 
 bourhood of the ships, and along shore it is 
 detached from the land entirely at high water ; we 
 found the thickness of it in several places where 
 we measured it this evening, to vary from a foot, 
 to eighteen inches. In the course of the afternoon 
 a large flock of loons flew across the harbour, 
 going to the westward, fi:om which we are inclined 
 to think, that there is some open water in that 
 direction, and we have reason to suppose, that we 
 shall soon have that here also. A few days ago 
 we picked up on the surface of the ice, between 
 the ships and the shore, three fish, between ten 
 inches and a foot long each, which answered to 
 the character given by LinnaBus of the pouting 
 whiting. We supposed that they got on the surface 
 
 * On a slab of schistose sandstone about three feet long, and 
 two feet broad, there was cut the following inscription : 
 
 " To 
 
 The Memory of 
 
 Wm. Scott, Seaman, 
 
 His Britannic Majesty's ship 
 
 Hecla ; 
 
 Obiit. June 30th, 1820. 
 
 ^t. 33 years." 
 
 This stone was placed at the head of the grave, with its front 
 
 facing to the westward ; and the grave itself was covered with 
 
 stone, in order to prevent its being disturbed by wolves, or any 
 
 other animals. 
 
'iiSS A VOYAGE OF DISCOVEHY 
 
 of the ice, at the time that it was overflowed by 
 the stream tides in the winter. In speaking of tides, 
 it reminds me that I have hither omitted to men- 
 tion, that we have been for nearly these two months 
 past, observing regularly every day, the rise and 
 fall of the tide in this harbour. * And we found, 
 from the result of these observations, that the 
 greatest rise and fall is only four feet two inches, 
 and that occurred only once, viz. at eight o'clock 
 in the forenoon, on the 13th of May last. 
 
 Friday y 14fth. — Nothing of any importance has 
 occurred for this Week past. The ice has now got 
 very thin, but it has not yet broke up any where 
 except along the shore. It is expected, however, 
 that the first strong breeze of wind we Ijave will 
 break it up ; and, in order to be able to avail our- 
 selves of the first opportunity that may offer for 
 getting away, every thing is now ready, I believe, 
 for taking our departure. Among other mementos 
 that we have left to indicate our stay at this place, 
 is a large pile of stones, or monument, as it is 
 called, that we erected yesterday, on the most 
 conspicuous hill in this neighbourhood, situated 
 about two miles to the north-east of where the 
 ships lay, and from thence usually termed North- 
 East Hill. This pile is about ten feet in diameter 
 at the base, and between ten and eleven feet 
 high. In the centre of it we deposited a tin cy- 
 linder, containing some silver coins, and a paper 
 giving an account of our stay, and object in visit- 
 ing these regions. On the south end of a large 
 
 * See Appendix. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 239 
 
 stone, situated between two and three hundred 
 yards from the beach, on the south-west side of 
 the entrance of the harbour, we cut the following 
 words so deeply, that I imagine some traces of 
 them will be legible for some centuries to come. 
 The words in question are these : — " His Bri- 
 tannic Majesty's ships, Hecla and Griper, com- 
 manded by W. E. Parry, and M. Liddon, wintered 
 in the adjacent harbour, 1819-20." I may remark 
 also that the inscription on the tomb-stone of the 
 late William Scott will be another lasting monu- 
 ment that will show the place near which we have 
 now passed the best part of a year. Besides these, 
 many other relics will be left, that would identify 
 Winter Harbour for some ages ; but, wh^t is more 
 unperishable tlian all these marks, which time will 
 destroy, we have determined its geographical po- 
 sition with such precision, I presume, that if any 
 future navigator should hereafter visit this coast, 
 he will have no difficulty in finding this port, at 
 least as far as its situation will be concerned. 
 
 The latitude of the spot where 
 the ship lay since the 26th of 
 September, 1819 .... 74° 47' 15" N, 
 
 Longitude of ditto, by lunar ob- 
 servations 110° 48' 30'' W. 
 
 Variation of the compass, as 
 found on shore, clear of the 
 ship's attraction . . . . 128*' E. 
 
 Although we are now in perfect readiness, 
 and, 1 may say, indeed, in daily expectation 
 of leaving this place, it is intended to keep 
 parties out shooting until we have an immediate 
 
'240 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY , 
 
 prospect of setting off. My diary of the occur- 
 rences on board must, therefore, be again sus- 
 pended for a while, as I am appointed to be one 
 of the party that is to go out this evening to re- 
 lieve those that are at the tents. We left the ships 
 at ten o'clock at night, and arrived at the tents at 
 four o'clock next morning. 
 
 Tuesday^ '25th My account of all the circum- 
 stances that came under our observation, from that 
 period, until our return, may be comprised in very 
 few words. It would, indeed, be little better than 
 a mere tautology of the events of our first shooting 
 excursion^ if I were to relate those that occurred 
 at this time. With respect, therefore, to the ani- 
 mals that we met with, I have to observe only, 
 that they were of the same kind as those we saw 
 before ; but much fewer in number, owing, no 
 doubt, to their being so much chased and disturbed 
 ibr these six weeks past. The face of the country 
 is very much improved, as far as regards its being 
 much drier, and consequently better adapted for 
 travelling ; but with respect to its appearance, it has 
 lost very considerably in this point, for almost the 
 whole of the flowers that adorned it, about a fort- 
 night or three weeks ago, have now run into seed, 
 and their petals fallen off, so that the land has begun 
 again to look naked. Thelakes and streams that were 
 so numerous, and some of considerable size, when 
 we were out about the middle of last month, are 
 now almost entirely dried up ; even those streams 
 that we then dignified with the name of rivers, are 
 now so small, that we crossed them on our return 
 to-day without wetting pur feet. The exhalation 
 from these lakes is almost incredible, considering 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 241 
 
 the nature of the chmate ; for the vapour that 
 rises from them sometimes appears at a little dis- 
 tance, as thick as if it rose from the surface of 
 hot water. During our excursions, lately, we ob- 
 served another curious circumstance, peculiar, I 
 imagine, to this climate, at least to the extent that 
 we saw it. The thing I allude to is, that in se- 
 veral places along the sides of the hills, we ob- 
 served where pieces of ground, from fifty t^ sixty 
 yards in length, and between thirty and forty in 
 breadth, had started from their place, and slided 
 down these hills to the distance of sixty or seventy 
 yards, forming, where they had stopped, large 
 heaps of earth, and in other places spreading over 
 the face of these hills. The depth of the chasms 
 that were left by the removal of these pieces of 
 ground was, in. general, about two feet ; the 
 surface of the ground in them was firmly frozen, 
 whilst the ground that slided away was so soft, 
 that a person would sink into it. 
 
 How far these casual circumstances may operate 
 in changing the face of this country, 1 do not pre- 
 tend to say, but there is one thing certain, that it 
 has undergone a very considerable change, and 
 that too at no very distant period of time ; for we 
 found the jaw-bones of a whale on a plain, at the 
 distance of a mile, at least, from the sea, and a 
 crown-bone of a whale was picked up about the 
 same distance from the shore, near Winter Har- 
 bour. And, in both these cases, the bones were, 
 I think, too heavy for wolves or bears to drag them 
 that distance inland ; and, if that be admitted, I 
 do not see any other way in which the thing can 
 
 R 
 
^242 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 bie accounted for, except by supposing that the 
 coast has extended its former limits. But my ob- 
 ject being that of stating facts, I shall avoid enter- 
 ing any farther into these conjectures, in case of 
 drawing wrong conclusions. On returning to the 
 tents this morning, we found an officer and three 
 men there, who were sent out to assist us in taking 
 the tents, &c., on board, there being hopes, at 
 length, of leaving Winter Harbour ; for all the ice 
 on it is now broke up, and drifting about from 
 one side to the other, according to the direction 
 of the wind. We started at three o'clock in the 
 afternoon, and got on board by eight o'clock in 
 the evening. 
 
 Wednesday y Q6th. — The wind being from the 
 southward this forenoon, all hands were employed 
 warping the ships out towards the mouth of the 
 harbour, where we anchored, the entrance being 
 as yet choked up with ice j but, as we know that 
 there is clear water along shore outside, this ob- 
 struction, we may reasonably expect, will soon be 
 removed by the first fresh breeze of northerly 
 wind that we have. 
 
 Friday, Q,Sth. — We are still detained by the 
 ice above-mentioned, which has been thrown up, 
 by the late southerly wind that we have had, into 
 large hummocks on the reef, at the south-east 
 side of the entrance of the harbour. Our passage, 
 indeed, is not over that reef, but the ice that has 
 grounded on it, seems to offer obstruction in its 
 passage outward, to that which is in the harbour. 
 We saw a large seal on the ice to-day, but he lay 
 so near the edge of the piece that he was on, that 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIOVS. 243 
 
 he succeeded in getting into the water before we 
 got to him, although he was severely wounded 
 with balls. 
 
 Tuesday f August Ist. — The first of August ap^ 
 pears to be a lucky day in the events of this 
 voyage, for it was on this day last year that we 
 entered Lancaster's Sound, and at twenty minutes 
 after one o'clock this afternoon we made sail out 
 of Winter Harbour, after having been part of 
 every month in the year in it, and, consequently, 
 upwards of ten calendar months. Our anxiety^ 
 for some time past, to recommence our labours after 
 so long a period of inactivity, and the pleasure 
 that we felt on finding that long-wish ed-for period 
 at length arrived, may be more easily conceived 
 than expressed ; for, notwithstanding tlie several 
 plans that were adopted to keep both body and 
 mind employed, we could not help occasionally 
 reflecting, that much of our time was idly spent, 
 whilst a great deal yet remained to be done, be- 
 fore the object of the expedition would be accom- 
 plished. On getting out of the harbour to-day, 
 however, the prospect before us gave us every 
 reason to hope that, notwithstanding the shortness 
 of the season, much might be done ; for, as far as 
 we could see to the westward, there was a channel 
 of open water, three or four miles in breadth, 
 along the land. To the eastward, this channel 
 appeared to be still wider, but that not being our 
 way, we paid but little attention to what lay in 
 that direction. The weather was extremely fine 
 to-day ; but the wind being for most part of the 
 time against us, we made no great progress. 
 
244 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 Wednesday y 9.d. — The wind being still adverse, 
 our advance to the westward was, as yesterday, 
 but very slow ; and in the afternoon it veered 
 round to the southward, and, consequently, soon 
 set the ice in with the land, so that we were 
 obliged, at four o'clock, to make fast to a hum- 
 mock of ice, aground near the shore. 
 
 Thursday, 3d. — The weather was foggy most 
 part of this day ; and, the ice being close in with 
 the land, we have not moved from the place where 
 we brought up yesterday. It has been observed, 
 since we made fast here, that the flood-tide comes 
 from the w^estward, and that the time of high- 
 water corresponds with that in Winter Harbour. 
 
 Friday 4>th, — The wind having veered round to 
 the N. W. this forenoon, the ice soon began to 
 drive off from the land, and by one o'clock in the 
 afternoon we cast off and made sail. As we ad- 
 vanced to the westward, we found the channel to 
 be gradually widening, so that, about midnight, 
 we found as great a space of clear water as we 
 ever observed before off this part of the island, 
 and, in the opinion of some, more, indeed, than 
 we found last year ; for the ice was estimated, to- 
 night to be, at least, four miles and a half, or five 
 miles, off the coast; and as to the extent of this 
 channel to the westward, we had the pleasure of 
 seeing no end to it in that direction, and, to add 
 to this, we had a fresh breeze of wind in our fa- 
 vour, and fine clear weather. About midnight we 
 got abreast of the place where we were stopped 
 so long by the ice, at the time the Griper's party 
 lost their way, in the month of September last. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 24)5 
 
 Saturday^ 5th. — We got this forenoon abreast 
 of the high land, where we were stopped by the 
 ice last autumn ; the wind having failed us about 
 noon, a party went ashore to make observations, 
 &c. They found the rocks here to consist of sand- 
 stone, as on all other parts of this island, where 
 we have yet landed. The sorrel, and other plants 
 that were brought on board, were considerably 
 larger than those of the same kind that we found 
 about Winter Harbour, most probably owing to 
 the more favourable situation in which they grew ; 
 being well sheltered from the northerly wind by 
 the high land, and having a southerly aspect. It 
 appears that this part of the coast is well stocked 
 with hares, for tliey saw four during, the short 
 time they were on shore ; a glaucous gull, and a 
 raven were also seen. At six o'clock in the even- 
 ing we got to the edge of a loose stream of heavy 
 ice ; but as we. advanced into it, it became closer, 
 and at a quarter before nine it was found to be so 
 compact that there was no possibility of getting 
 through it. We therefore made fast to some hum- 
 mocks of ice, about twenty yards from the beacli, 
 in from seven to nine fathoms* water. We had not 
 been above an hour or two fast, when we found 
 the ice had closed in with the land, both to the 
 eastward and westward. Our situation, therefore, 
 was not deemed to be by any means safe ; for the 
 ice was driving to the westward with considerable 
 velocity, and our only protection against it was a 
 low point of land, that lay to the eastward of us. 
 Whilst the ice ran to the westward, however, this 
 point sheltered us very well ; but, in the event of 
 
 R 3 
 
ii-if) A VOYAGK or DISCOVERY 
 
 its returning by the wind or tide in the contrary 
 direction, or from the southward, we must be 
 completely exposed to it ; circumstances may, 
 however, become more favourable before such a 
 change takes place. 
 
 Sunday^ 6th. — After we made fast last evening, 
 some of us went ashore, and, in the course of the 
 night, killed fourteen hares, and a number of glau- 
 cous gulls, which were found with their young on 
 the top of an insulated rock, about thirty feet 
 high, situated near the mouth of a ravine, about 
 five miles to the eastward. The coast here is very 
 bold and precipitous, rising abruptly from the sea to 
 the height of about eight hundred and fifty feet. At 
 the foot of the rocks there is, indeed, in some 
 places, a slope from forty to fifty yards in breadth, 
 covered generally with the loose fragments of 
 stone that fall from them. These rocks consist 
 entirely of schistose sandstone, and a kind of 
 slate-clay, of a light green colour. Along the 
 face, and pretty near the top of these precipices, 
 there are a number of insulated columns, or rather 
 insulated masses, that resemble, in some measure, 
 when viewed a little way off, the turrets of a di- 
 lapidated building ; but, when view^ed more 
 closely, that is, from the foot of the precipices, 
 their natural structiue is seen to great advantage ; 
 and, as far as lofty and rugged clifi^s can be said 
 to be picturesque, some of those in question were 
 eminently so. Nor is this romantic scene confined 
 only to the rocks that faced the sea ; on the con- 
 trary, some of the ravines that ran inland, con- 
 tained some that excelled the former, if possible, 
 
TO THE y\RCTIC REGIONS. 
 
 in the variety of their fantastic shapes. There 
 is one of these ravines near tlie ship, that is 
 particularly interesting in this way. I remarked 
 that all these rocks were invariably stratified hori- 
 zontally. The surface of the country is, generally 
 speaking, plain, and, if viewed from the sea, would 
 come under the denomination of table-land. 
 
 Monday^ '^tli. — From the top of the hills above^ 
 mentioned, land was seen to-day, extending from 
 S. to W. S. W., and supposed to be about fifty 
 miles ofif. Whether this is the continent of Ame- 
 rica, or an island lying off it, is certainly a question 
 that our present knowledge is inadequate to decide ; 
 I shall therefore not ofl^er an opinion on the sub- 
 ject. From the same elevated situation that this 
 land was seen, we had also a good view of the sea 
 to the westward, or rather, I am sorry to say, oi' 
 the ice ; for, as far as we could see, in that direc- 
 tion, as well as to the southward, and even to the 
 eastward, it was covered with ice. There were 
 here and there, indeed, small pools, and lanes of 
 open water, but no continuous opening. The ice 
 that lay close in with the land was in general 
 broken up, into what might, comparatively speak- 
 ing, be termed small pieces; but, beyond this, that 
 is, to seaward, it appeared to consist of innnense 
 floes, some of them several miles in diameter. We 
 find also that the ice here is much heavier than any 
 that we saw before, and is at the same time quite 
 of a different character ; for, instead of its pre- 
 senting an even surface, like the ice in Baffin's 
 Bay, it is completely covered with hummocks, 
 resembling what I understand the Greenland ire 
 
 R 4 
 
24S A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 to be. Since we came here we have observed 
 another circumstance that deserves to be men- 
 tioned, when speaking of the ice off this part of 
 tlie coast : the circumstance that I allude to is, a 
 ledge of ice that is firmly attached to the land, and 
 extends from it in general no more than fifteen or 
 twenty yards. The surface of this icy girt is 
 covered with five or six feet water, and its outer 
 edge is so steep, that from six to seven fathoms 
 are found immediately alongside of it. 
 
 Wednesday y 9th. — The ice has been almost con- 
 stantly in motion during these two days past; some- 
 times it is drifting to the eastward, and at other 
 times in a contrary direction, but it never leaves a 
 clear space of any extent in either way. We had 
 an opportunity of observing this evening an instance 
 ofthe violent pressure that takes place occasionally 
 by the collision of this heavy ice ; for two pieces 
 that happened to come in contact close to us press- 
 ed so forcibly against one another, that one of them, 
 although forty-two feet thick, and at least three 
 times that in length and breadth, was forced 
 up on its edge on the top of another piece of ice. 
 But even this is nothing when compared with the 
 pressure that must have existed to produce the ef- 
 fects that we see along the shore, for not only heaps 
 of earth and stones, several tons' weight, are forced 
 up, but hummocks of ice from fifty to sixty feet 
 thick are piled up on the beach. It is unnecessary 
 to remark that a ship, although fortified as well as 
 wood and iron could make her, would have but 
 httle chance of withstanding such overwhelming 
 force i and, from a conviction of this, we consider 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ^249 
 
 our present situation, as I have already said, 
 a very precarious one. But to dismiss this 
 subject for something more interesting, I have to 
 notice, in the first place, that a whale was seen two 
 nights ago, for the first time this season ; and, on 
 the same day, we shot a fawn, which weighed 
 thirty-eight pounds. A few hares and glaucous 
 gulls have also been killed within these two days, 
 but our success to-day, in the sporting way, de- 
 serves most notice, for w^e shot a musk-ox. When 
 first seen, he was going along the beach to the 
 eastward; and, from the nature of the ground, 
 was obliged to pass so close to us, that he was fired 
 at from the ship. We thought at first that he was 
 wounded on this occasion ; but we soon had rea- 
 son to alter our opinion, for he galloped off at 
 greater rate than an animal of his shape could be 
 supposed capable of going. The nature of the 
 ground was, however, as I have already remarked, 
 very favourable for our purpose; for he was 
 hemmed in by the sea on one side, and steep cliffs, 
 which he could not ascend, on the other. When 
 he found, therefore^ that he was assailed in such 
 a way that there was no possibility for him to 
 escape, he immediately put himself in a posture of 
 defence, by taking up a position in front of a large 
 stone, where he could not certainly be attacked by 
 any other animal, except under a great disadvan- 
 tage ; but to the means that we had, he could 
 offer no resistance, and consequently fell. 
 
 His weight and dimensions were as follows : 
 Tiz. — 
 
250 
 
 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 Length from the snout to the end of the tail 
 Length of the tail . . _ . 
 
 Height from the sole of the fore-hoof to the top 
 
 of the hunch _ . . - 
 
 From ditto to the knee-joint of the fore-leg - 
 From the hoof to the second joint, {i. c. the length 
 
 of the fore-leg) . . _ _ 
 
 Length of the fore-hoof - - . . 
 
 Breadth of ditto . _ . . 
 
 Circumference of the fore-leg below the knee 
 Length from the sole of the hind-hoof to the hock 
 Length of the hind-leg . _ - 
 
 Length of the hind-hoof - - - - 
 
 Breadth of ditto . . . - - 
 
 Circumference of the hind-leg below the hock 
 Height from the sole of the hind-hoof to the top of 
 
 the back . . - - - 
 
 From the end of the snout to the fore-shoulder 
 From ditto to the upper part of the root of the 
 
 horns ... - 
 
 eet. 
 
 In. 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 4- 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 4i 
 
 
 
 6i 
 
 * 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 1 10 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ^51 
 
 Feet. In. 
 From tlie end of the snout to the eyes - - 1 0^ 
 
 From the root of the horns to the top of the hunch 2 
 Between the tips of the horns - - - 2 
 
 Circumference of the horns as low as could be 
 
 measured - - - - - 1 0^ 
 
 Base of the horns longitudinally - - - 11^ 
 
 Length of the ears (which were pointed and situ- 
 ated close behind the horns) - - 6 
 Circumference of the neck close to the head - 3 8 
 Incisores (lower jaws) six in number, and molares 
 
 in both jaws twenty-four, viz. twelve in each , 
 
 Length of the nostrils - - - - 3 
 
 Breadth between the nostrils (upper end) - - 4- 
 Breadth between the eyes - - - 1 1 
 
 Length of the longest hair on his rump --'25 
 
 Weight of the carcase when skinned and 
 
 cleaned . _ - . lbs. 421 
 
 Weight of the head, skin, and feet - 13-1' 
 
 Estimated weight of the entrails and 
 
 blood, &c. - - - - 160 
 
 Total weight - 715 
 
 '& 
 
 The hair on different parts of the body was ol" 
 different lengths, and of various colours, the pre- 
 vailing colour, however, was black, and the longest 
 hair was, as above stated, on the rump and hind 
 quarters. He had a thick mane extending from 
 the head to the top of the hunch ; the colour of it 
 was of a pale russet. Immediately beliind the 
 hunch there was a saddle, or bed, of short hair, of 
 a yellowish white colour, about a foot and a lialf in 
 length, along the ridge of the back, and nearly of 
 the same breadth. The legs, as far as the knee- 
 joint, were of a dirty white colour, and the hair on 
 them this far was no longer than that on an Eng- 
 lish ox. At the root of the long hair, there was a 
 
252 A. VaVAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 finer kind of an ash colour, which was indeed as 
 fine as any wool, and would certainly, if manufac- 
 tured, make as fine cloth as anv English wool. 
 Mr. Pennanty indeed, mentions, in his description 
 of the musk-ox, that a man of the name of Jeremie 
 had stockings made of the wool, or hair, of that 
 animal, which were equally . as fine as any silk 
 stockings. It would seem, that the animal casts 
 this fleecy covering annually, for in the thick part 
 of the mane, and on each side of the neck, there 
 was a layer of this wool quite detached from the 
 body of the animal, and only prevented from fall- 
 ing off, from being interwoven amongst the long 
 hair. The hair on his forehead was all matted 
 into small lumps with earth, and the roots of the 
 horns were also covered with it, from which it 
 would appear, that he was in the habit of tearing up 
 the ground with his head ; of this, indeed, we were 
 ourselves eye-witnesses in one instance, for after we 
 had surrounded him, so as to prevent his escape, 
 he began rubbing his head against the ground, 
 as if threatening us with destruction if we approach^ 
 ed nearer, and I have no doubt, that to any animal 
 that inhabits these regions he would be a formidable 
 antagonist, not excepting the bear itself. His flesh 
 tastes a good deal of musk, but not so much so as 
 to be disagreeable ; on this point, however, I ought 
 to pay some deference to the opinion of a few per- 
 sons amongst us who think differently. With re- 
 gard to the heart and liver, it was agreed by all 
 parties that they were not very palatable ; and those 
 who ate the kidnies say, that they tasted more 
 musky than any other part. To conclude the 
 
 17 
 
TO JHE ARCTIC REGIONS. 253 
 
 subject, I have no doubt that people Uving a little 
 more affluently than we have been for some time 
 past, would not relish the best part of it very 
 mu-ch at first, but it is a taste which, like many 
 others, 1 think might easily be acquired. 
 
 Friday 11th, — Nothing has occurred during 
 these two days past worthy of particular notice. 
 The ice, as I have already remarked, drives one 
 time to the eastward and at another time to the 
 westward, according to the set of the tide or di- 
 rection of the wind j but it never leaves a clear 
 space of any magnitude in either way, so that we 
 have as little prospect of getting on as we had the 
 first day we made fast here. 
 
 Monday, 14<th. — I formed a piece of floe-ice to- 
 day (taken indiscriminately from a long side) into 
 a cube whose sides measured one foot, two inches 
 seven-tenths, which, when put into salt-water at the 
 temperature of 34° and of the specific gravity 
 1.0105, one inch and eight- tenths of it remained 
 above the surface of the water, or rather more than 
 one-eighth of the whole mass. Judging therefore 
 of the thickness of the floes in this neighbourhood, 
 from the proportion of them above the surface of 
 the water, we are led to conclude that their average 
 thickness is from forty to fifty feet, and many of 
 them much more. 
 
 Tuesday y 15th. — The ice having been observed 
 early this morning to clear off the coast for a little 
 way to the westward, we got under weigh at five 
 o'clock, A. M., and ran about two miles along 
 shore, when we were obliged to make fast again 
 at six, the ice being close in with the land. Al- 
 
'■25i^ .\ VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 though we gained but little ground on this occa- 
 sion, we have benefited very considerably by 
 getting the ships into a much more secure place 
 than that which we left ; for we have got into a 
 creek formed by large hummocks of ice aground 
 within twenty yards of the beach ; in fact, we lie so 
 close to the shore, that we step almost immediately 
 on it from the ship. In the course of the day I 
 took a walk of five or six miles along shore to the 
 westward, during which excursion I shot nine 
 hares, and saw a great many tracks of reindeer, 
 and musk-oxen. The land is of the same charac- 
 ter, as far as I could see, as that which I described 
 where we had been lying for this week past. The 
 coast now begins to trend very much to the north- 
 ward, as nigh as I can judge about north-west, for 
 the place that we left this morning was in latitude 
 74° 25' 24'' N. and longitude by chronometer 
 113° 42' 30" W., and that where the ships now lie 
 is in latitude 74° 26' 06" N. and longitude by the 
 mean of three sets of sights for chronometer 
 113° 46' 05" W. * With respect to the state of 
 the ice, I could perceive no material difference ir 
 it to-day, from what it has been for this week past : 
 close in with the land it is broken up, as I have 
 already mentioned, into small pieces ; but at the 
 distance of a mile (or two at the farthest) from 
 the coast, commence a line of floes that extend to 
 the westward and southward, as far as the eye can 
 
 * These last results, viz. latitude 74° 26' 06" N., and longi- 
 tude 113° 4S' 05" W., were obtained from observations made on 
 the 16th instant, although mentioned amongst the events of 
 the 15th. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. *255 
 
 penetrate from the most elevated situation in this 
 neighbourhood, and leaving no clear space except 
 a few pools, and small lanes as I remarked some 
 days ago. 
 
 Wednesday f l&h. — Without digressing much 
 from the subject of my narrative, I may remark in 
 this place, that the reason generally given, why so 
 much heavy ice should lay oif this part of the 
 coast, is, because we are near the west end of this 
 island, so that the ice which comes from the north- 
 ward lodges here. The land that we see to the 
 southward and westward may be considered also 
 another locality that tends to keep this place al- 
 ways hampered with ice. In consideration of 
 these circumstances, the advanced period of the 
 season, and perhaps other reasons which it is nei- 
 ther.my business nor intention to enquire into, the 
 object of prosecuting our voyage to the westward^ 
 in this parallel of latitude, has to-day been aban- 
 doned. And by a general order to the officers who 
 keep watch, it appears that our object now is to 
 endeavour to get to the southward, for they are 
 required to keep a good look-out for any opening 
 that may appear amongst the ice in that direction. 
 We therefore cast off from the ice at half past two 
 o'clock in the afternoon, and made sail to the east- 
 ward, not without some feelings of regret and dis- 
 appointment, at being at length obliged to abandon 
 our hopes of a passage, where we had at one time 
 so much reason to expect our endeavours to be 
 crowned with success. I am fully persuaded, how- 
 evei-j that every person who will take the trouble 
 of making himself acquainted with the events of 
 
256 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 our voyage, will be perfectly convinced that our 
 retrograde movement to-day is neither an inconsi- 
 derate, nor a precipitate measure ; on the contrary, 
 I beheve, the annals of navigation will produce but 
 few, if any instance of such perseverance as we 
 have manifested in our attempts to get to the west- 
 ward along this coast, for it is now within a few 
 days of twelve months since we made the east 
 end of this island, a distance of very little more 
 than one hundred miles. But to leave the subject 
 for others to judge, I shall proceed to give an ac- 
 count of any occurrences that may happen dur- 
 ing our return to the eastward. The wind being 
 light, we made no great progress this afternoon, and 
 about midnight we were stopped altogether by the 
 ice ; we therefore made fast as usual to some hum- 
 mocks of it that were aground within a few yards 
 of the beach. 
 
 Monday, 9,\st. — These four or five days past 
 have been very barren of events worthy of notice ; 
 we are still detained at the place where we made 
 fast on the night of the l6th, and if we had not 
 had one year's experience of the length of the 
 summer season in these regions, we might be apt 
 to suppose that the winter had already set in, for 
 what little space there was of clear water when we 
 made fast here, is now covered with young or 
 bay-ice, as it is called, which is in general about an 
 inch thick ; but in those places along shore where 
 it is overshadowed by the hummocks of ice along 
 the beach, it is considerably thicker, for in those 
 places it does not dissolve during the heat of the 
 day. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 257 
 
 Wednesday y '23d. — A breeze of vvin^d sprung up 
 this forenoon from the westward, which, in a short 
 time, drove the ice a little way off the land, or 
 rather slackened it, for it did not open a clear pas- 
 sage. We availed ourselves however of the open- 
 ing, such as it was, for at half-past twelve, A. M. 
 we cast off, and made sail to the eastward ; but we 
 were obliged to make fast again at seven o'clock in 
 the evening, the ice being close in with the land. 
 Abreast of where we made fast this evening, we 
 found the large piece of ice that was mentioned on 
 the 9th instant, as having been pressed up on its 
 edge, from which circumstance it would appear, 
 that there is a current, or prevailing tide setting to 
 the eastward along this coast, for this piece of ice 
 has come about twenty miles to the eastward within 
 these sixteen days past, the difference of longitude 
 alone being upwards of a degree. 
 
 Thursday, 24ftk. — We cast off and made sail 
 again at ten o'clock this forenoon, but the ice was 
 so close that we made but little progress, and at 
 noon we were stopped by it altogether, and again 
 made fast to a hummock of ice aground in nine 
 fathoms' water. Soon after we made fast, we ob- 
 served a herd of seven musk-oxen at the foot of a 
 hill, at the distance of about two miles from the 
 beach. We prepared immediately to go after them, 
 but the eagerness of one or two who wished to be 
 foremost set them off before we got sufficiently near 
 them ; by following them, however, we succeeded 
 in getting one of them, which was a bull, and ap- 
 parently the largest in the herd. Among those that 
 got away there were two calves, and all the rest. 
 
•^58 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 with the exception of one, appeared to be cows. 
 In the course of the evening, another musk-bull 
 was shot, which was found by itself, and therefore 
 supposed not to be one of the herd just mentioned. 
 It would be quite unnecessary to enter into a de- 
 scription of these two animals, as they differed in 
 no respect from the one that we killed on the 9th 
 instant, except in being a little smaller, or rather 
 lighter, for the first one that was shot to-day weighed 
 only three hundred and fifty-nine pounds, and the 
 other three hundred and sixty-eight pounds. This 
 difference appeared to be chiefly owing to the one 
 that we kiUed some time ago, being in better con- 
 dition than these, for they did not seem to differ 
 much in size. At the foot of the hill where we saw 
 these musk-oxen to-day, and along a plain that lay 
 between it and the sea, we passed so many skulls 
 and skeletons of musk-oxen, that I am inclined to 
 alter my opinion respecting their migrating to the 
 coast of America during the winter, for if they only 
 visit this country in the summer-time, it is some- 
 what strange that so many should die here during 
 such a favourable part of the year. Besides, they 
 are so well provided by nature for enduring the 
 rigour of the climate, that the necessity for their 
 leaving this island does not appear to be altogether 
 so indispensable, as a person would at first sight be 
 inclined to believe. This, however, is a subject on 
 which much might be said for or against the ques- 
 tion, but as I am not particularly interested, on my 
 own part, to establish the point, whether they 
 migrate or remain here, I shall forbear saying any 
 more about the matter, any farther than that we 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 259 
 
 know that wolves and foxes pass the winter here, 
 and neither of them appeared to be better provided 
 for withstanding the cold, than the musk-ox ; and 
 with respect to food, there is certainly much more 
 grass in the valleys in this vicinity, than they will 
 destroy this season. 
 
 Friday, 25th. — We made an attempt again this 
 evening, to get to the eastward, but from want of 
 wind, and the closeness of the ice, we were obliged 
 to make fast again, without having gained above a 
 mile, after several hours* labour. I made a cube of 
 ice to-day, from a piece that was thrown up on the 
 hummock to which we were fast ; its sides mea- 
 sured two feet, and when put into salt water with 
 that side of it uppermost that the piece of ice from 
 which it was made had up at the time, three 
 inches and a half remained above the surface of 
 the water, but when the opposite side was up only 
 three inches appeared above the water. This was 
 no doubt owing to one side of the cube being 
 denser, and consequently heavier than the other j 
 in making it, indeed, 1 remarked, that the side that 
 was uppermost of the piece of ice was more porous 
 than the other. Although the weather is still re- 
 markably fine, we have many indications of the 
 approach of winter; the young ice continues to in- 
 crease in thickness, some of it was measured to- 
 day that was three inches thick ; stars have also 
 been seen about midnight for this week past, and 
 many other things might be mentioned that tend 
 to show that the close of this season is not very far 
 distant. 
 
 Saturday t 26th, — A fresh breeze sprang up 
 s 2 
 
"260 A VOVACrK OF DISCOVKRV 
 
 from the nortliward aiul westward this morning, 
 which soon opened a passage along shore ; we, 
 therefore, got under weigh at six o'clock, and 
 made sail to the eastward. We were a good deal 
 hampered with ice during the forenoon ; but in 
 the afternoon we got into a clear sea, so that by 
 six in the evening we were abreast of Winter Har- 
 bour. We saw very plainly as we went along the 
 pile of stones on North East Hill with the naked 
 eye, although it was estimated that we passed at 
 the distance of seven or eiglit miles from it. The 
 monument on Table Hill was also in sight during 
 most part of the afternoon, in fact every hill that 
 we passed this afternoon was recognised ; and 
 although I believe none regretted taking this last 
 farewell view of the ground that we had so often 
 trod, yet it was impossible to look at it with the 
 same indifference as at other parts of the coast j for 
 every hill reminded us of some circumstance or 
 other that happened during our perambulations 
 these eleven months past. In the evening we got 
 into such a wide space of clear water that no ice 
 could be seen even to the southward, except from 
 the mast-head. 
 
 Sunday, ^Z'^th. — We had a fine run to-day to 
 the eastward, for we were in the evening ofi' the 
 east end of Melville Island. As this is the first 
 time that I have made use of this name, it may be 
 necessary to mention that the island off or on which 
 our exploits have been performed for these twelve 
 months past, is named after the nobleman who 
 presides as first lord of the admiralty ; and I un- 
 derstand that it, and all the islands that lie in its 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 26l 
 
 neighbourhood to the eastward, are ta be called, in 
 honour of our sovereign, the North Georgian Isles. 
 The various other names that have been given to 
 islands, capes, points, bays, and inlets, that we 
 have discovered during our voyage are so nu- 
 merous that it would be too tedious to mention 
 them all in this place, nor would the mentioning 
 them be of any use, unless I was to refer to the 
 chait (on which they are laid down), and even 
 such a reference would be rather out of place if 
 made at this time. I cannot omit noticing, how- 
 ever, that the magnificent opening or passage, that 
 leads from what was formerly called Lancaster 
 Sound into these seas, is named Barrow's Straits, 
 after the well-known gentleman of that name, 
 whose clear judgment foresaw the existence of 
 this passage, and whoze zeal and influence had 
 been so instrumental in fitting out the expedition 
 for its discovery, even when doubts were enter- 
 tained and propagated against the probability of 
 its success. But I must leave this subject to those 
 who are much better able to discuss it, and resume 
 my diary of the rest of the events of the day. 
 
 After divisions this morning, Mr. Parry 
 addressed the officers and ship's company in 
 words to the following effect, viz. that it was 
 his opinion, and that of the senior officers of 
 the expedition, that the farther prosecution of 
 our voyage to the westward in this parallel of lati- 
 tude would be useless; therefore, that our pre- 
 sent object was to endeavour to get to the south- 
 ward, and if that should be found impracticable, 
 that it would be necessary to return to England: 
 
 s 3 
 
^62 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 and finally he informed them, that whenever this last 
 resolution should be determined on, that they 
 should be again put on full allowance of provi- 
 sions. 
 
 ' Monday y 2Sth. — Our progress to the eastward 
 still continues to be very rapid ; we were to-day at 
 noon in latitude 7'^° 58' N. and nearly in longitude 
 100" W. The sea is quite open to the eastward, 
 but to the southward it is completely covered with 
 ice. This ice, and all what we have passed indeed 
 on this side of Winter Harbour, has been, com- 
 pared to that to the westward, very light, and in 
 other respects quite of a different character ; for 
 its surface is perfectly smooth, and appears to be 
 one continued floe altogether, or, more properly 
 speaking, one extensive field j for, if I am not 
 mistaken, the distinction between the two terms 
 is, that a floe may be seen over, but if it should be 
 of such a size as not to be seen across, it is called a 
 field. If this definition is correct, then the ice 
 that we have been passing during these two days 
 comes under the latter denomination, for we have 
 never seen water beyond it. 
 
 All the land that we have passed to-day is com- 
 pletely covered with snow that looks to have 
 fallen lately, for near the shore it appears to be 
 but very thinly covered. 
 
 Tuesday^ Q,9th. — We passed last night and dur- 
 ing this forenoon several islands that we had not 
 seen before, owing to our being obliged, on ac- 
 count of the ice, to keep more to the northward 
 than we did when going to westward last year. 
 Some of these islands are of considerable extent. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 263 
 
 and all of them were, like those mentioned yester- 
 day, covered with snow. In their general character 
 they resembled those that we saw in this neighbour- 
 hood last year, that is, low, and even surfaced. 
 This description does not, however, apply to them 
 all, for some of those that we saw this forenoon 
 were high, and, in many places, rugged. It was 
 so dark last night that we were obliged to lay to 
 for three hours ; we have made considerable pro- 
 gress to-day, however, for we got in the evening 
 to the west end of Burrow's Straits. We have in 
 the course of the day seen a number of malle- 
 mucks, which, as far as I remember at present, are 
 the first birds of the kind that we have seen for 
 these twelve months past. 
 
 Wednesday, 30th. — The blank space where we 
 saw no land last year, from 91° to 92° of west 
 longitude, owing to the distance we were from it, 
 we found last night to be a continuous line of 
 coast, having a kind of large open bay in it, facing 
 to the northward. Early this morning we got to 
 the entrance of Regent's Inlet *, which I under- 
 stand was full of ice, consequently no attempt was 
 made to get into it. This being the easternmost 
 inlet or opening that we know of, leading to the 
 southward, the object of making any further 
 attempts to go in that direction, appears to be at 
 length abandoned, or rather it seems that it is now 
 
 * This being, I believe, the first time that I have used this 
 
 name, it may be necessary to remark, that the place called 
 
 Regent's Inlet, is that large opening leading to the southward 
 
 and westward, into which we sailed the second week of August 
 
 , last. year. .... 
 
 S 4 
 
264 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 determined to return to England. Mr. Parry 
 therefore, made this determination publicly known 
 to the officers and ship's company this morning, 
 and, according as he promised in his address to 
 them on the 27th instant, full allowance of provi- 
 sions is now ordered to be issued ; and in the 
 afternoon a suit of warm clothes, furnished by 
 government, gratis, was given to every person on 
 board. 
 
 Thursday, 31 sL — After passing Regent's Inlet, 
 we continued our course to the eastward, keeping 
 as near the south side of Barrow's Straits as the ice 
 would allow us. The distance we were from the 
 coast, was generally from seven to eight miles, and 
 this space was completely filled up with ice ; how- 
 ever, as the weather was clear, there was no 
 necessity for our going any closer to the land, as 
 we could see it very plainly. Indeed, the nature 
 of the land was such, that it might be seen very 
 distinctly at three times the distance we were off, 
 in such weather as we had to-day ; for the land on 
 the north side was seen as we came along, and that 
 opposite to it on the south side of the straits, is 
 exactly similar to it in character, and I believe 
 also in height, being, I imagine, from eight or nine 
 hundred, to a thousand feet high, bold, and com- 
 posed of horizontal strata, that looked at a distance 
 like gigantic steps rising one above another. The 
 land on both sides was completely covered with 
 snow, and that on the south side apparently very 
 deeply. Between us and the north land there 
 appeared to be no ice. From two to four o'clock 
 this morning, we "were passing the mouth of a 
 
TO thb: arctic regions. ^265 
 
 spacious inlet, from four to five leagues in breadtli, 
 that ran to the southward. The entrance of it was, 
 like Regent's Inlet, full of ice. It is to be named, 
 I understand. Admiralty Inlet. From the east side 
 of this inlet, the character of the land is very 
 much changed, for here the stratification ceases; 
 and the land, instead of rising abruptly from the 
 sea, ascends gradually as it recedes from the coast, 
 so that the highest part of it, or that which termi- 
 nated our view, was a long way inland. About 
 eight leagues to the eastward of the above inlet, is 
 the opening that was called in our former voyage, 
 Barrow's Bay ; but from the view that we had of 
 it this morning, we have strong reasons to doubt of 
 its being a bay, for we were much nearer to it than 
 we had ever been before, and we could see no 
 land at the bottom of it. The space that was open 
 did not appear indeed, to be very wide ; but 
 wherever the continuity of land is not actually 
 seen, I think that it would be presumption to say, 
 that there is no passage, especially in regions like 
 these, that have never been explored. This bay, 
 or inlet, or whatever it may be termed, was like 
 that which we passed in the morning, full of ice ; 
 at the entrance of it there appeared to be two low 
 islands, and at the bottom of it, and nearly in the 
 middle of the opening, there appeared to be 
 another small, round-topped island; but this last 
 was so far off, that we were in doubt whether it 
 might not be the top of a distant hill. In the 
 course of the afternoon we passed a large bear 
 swimming, at the distance of two miles at least 
 from the land ; a boat was dispatched after him. 
 
'266 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 but there was so much sea on at the time, that we 
 never got sight of him after leaving the ship. A 
 whale was also seen this evening, for the first time 
 since we returned to the eastward. I may also 
 remark, that we passed some icebergs to-day, for 
 the first time since we left this place last year. 
 
 Friday y September 1st, — We passed Possession 
 Bay last night, and have been running all this day 
 to the southward, within a few leagues of the coast. 
 At three o'clock in the afternoon we came abreast 
 of an opening, which agrees in its situation with 
 Pond's Bay on the chart. We stood in towards it 
 until we were stopped by the ice, which lay oflT this 
 part of the chart. It was estimated that we were 
 at this time, from eight to ten leagues from the 
 entrance of this inlet ; but, notwithstanding we 
 were that distance oflT, we are certain that if it is a 
 bay, it must be a very deep one, for we could see 
 nothing like land at the bottom of it. The capes 
 that formed the entrance of it, and the land indeed 
 on both sides of it, as far in as we could see, were 
 bold and very high. The angle that the capes 
 subtended, measured 8° 44', which, if the distance 
 we were off be properly estimated, would make the 
 entrance of it about six miles wide. 
 
 Saturday y 9,d, — We were running to tlie south- 
 ward all day along the land, and generally between 
 ten or twelve miles distant from it. The space 
 was, for most part of the way, covered with ice, 
 but the land being high, we had no occasion for 
 going any nearer to it, for the purpose of a gene- 
 ral survey, such as we are taking. In the course 
 of the forenoon, we passed a place where there 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 26^ 
 
 appeared to be a large harbour. In two or three 
 places along this part of the coast, we saw some 
 large glaciers, one of them that we passed this 
 morning was estimated to be at least two miles 
 long. A great number of icebergs were also seen 
 in the course of the day : most of them lay be- 
 tween us and the land, and several of them ap- 
 peared to be aground, for the tide-mark on them 
 was at one time five or six feet above the surface 
 of the water. We sounded several times as we 
 were passing them, and found from sixty to seventy 
 fathoms* water. During these two days past, a 
 great number of mallemucks, and several of the 
 various other aquatic birds that frequent these 
 seas have been seen, viz. glaucous, and ivory gulls, 
 loons, ratges, and the black-diver, commonly called 
 dovekey, or Greenland dove. 
 
 Sunday y 3d. — The wind being very light, and 
 what little there was of it being against us, a 
 party of us landed this forenoon on a part of the 
 coast situated in latitude 71° 30' N., and longitude 
 71° 15' W. Near where we landed, there was an 
 island about three miles long, situated in a sort of 
 bay, and separated from the mainland by a chan- 
 nel about two miles broad. The east end of this 
 island, or that end which faced the sea, termin- 
 ated in a very remarkable cliff, which was esti- 
 mated to be from three to four hundred feet high, 
 and rose quite perpendicular from the sea ; in one 
 point of view, indeed, it overhung a little. The 
 whole of the coast of this island, as far as we saw, 
 was so precipitous as to be perfectly inaccessible. 
 On the mainland, also, about this place, there are 
 
'268 A VOYAGE or DISCOVERY 
 
 some of the most remarkable piked mountains 1 
 ever saw, for some of them are so pointed, that 
 they look at a distance not unlike the spires of a 
 ruined building. The land is mountainous, and 
 exceedingly rugged, and is covered with snow 
 down to the sea side. The rocks are composed 
 entirely of granite and gneiss, the former of the 
 kind that is termed, by geologists, the oldest 
 granite, that is^ consisting of large crystals of the 
 different component parts, particularly the felspar. 
 Fragments of beautiful white quartz were also very 
 abundant here. Of the vegetable productions of 
 this place we could say but very little, for the land 
 was, as I have already said, covered with snow, 
 besides it is too late in the season to collect 
 plants in tliis climate. Of the animal kingdom vve 
 also saw but few specimens ; of these few, how- 
 ever, were two red-throated divers that we shot, 
 which are the only birds of the kind that we met 
 with this voyage. Two flocks of Brent geese, some 
 glaucous gulls, and a few snow-buntings, were all 
 the animals, I believe, that were seen .here. We 
 saw, however, the tracts of bears, wolves, and 
 Ibxes, in considerable numbers, and the track of 
 some cloven-footed animal was also seen ; we sup- 
 posed it to be that of a musk-ox, but it was much 
 larger than any that we had seen before. We 
 met also with bones of a whale, that had been 
 thrown up on the beach, and not far from the 
 same place were found indications of some people 
 (probably Esquimaux) having been here, for a 
 piece of whale-bone tliat they had cut was 
 picked up, and, as a proof that it had not been 
 
TO THE ARCTIC RKGIONS. '2iJ9 
 
 driven there by the sea, the chips that had been 
 cut off it were lying there. It was low water at 
 three o'clock, and from that time until half-past 
 five, it had risen twelve inches : it set to the south- 
 ward. 
 
 Mondai/y 4fth. — We made no great progress to- 
 day, owing to there being but little wind for a con- 
 siderable part of the time ; our course has been the 
 same as for some days past, along shore, and about 
 the usual distance from it, that is, between three 
 and four leagues. In the course of the afternoon 
 we crossed two banks lying about 'the distance 
 just mentioned from the coast. The soundings on 
 them varied from twelve and a half to eighteen 
 fathoms ; coarse sand with black and red specks. 
 Between the two banks, the water deepened to 
 fifty-six fathoms ; nature of the bottom the same 
 as above. Whilst we were on these banks, it was 
 remarked that a tide or current was drifting us 
 very fast to the southward ; but, on getting into 
 deep water, we tried to ascertain its rate, but, to 
 our surprise, could not find either tide or current. 
 There were a great many icebergs aground about 
 the edges of these banks, and there was also a 
 considerable quantity of loose ice in the same 
 neighbourhood, no doubt owing to its being 
 retained there by these bergs. At one o'clock 
 we were a little surprised to see a strange ship 
 bearing N. E. of us, and distant between seven 
 and eight miles ; in the course of the afternoon 
 three more sails were seen, from which we imme- 
 diately concluded that they must be whale-ships. 
 Although wv are all anxious to hear the news, vet, 
 
!270 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 as we are on our way home ourselves, I believe the 
 general wish is, that we should avoid falling in with 
 these vessels, in order that we may be the bearers 
 of our own news ; but two of them lie so directly 
 in our way, that, without altering our course, we 
 must pass very close to them, and as our wish to 
 avoid them does not go so far as to induce us to 
 go out of our way, it is probable that we shall 
 speak them to-morrow morning. 
 
 Tuesday^ 5th. — In the course of the forenoon 
 we passed close to one of the ships that were seen 
 yesterday, and found her to be the Lee, of Hull ; 
 having thirteen fish on board. We learnt from 
 her, that King George the Third, and His Royal 
 Highness the Duke of Kent are dead, and several 
 other pieces of information of minor importance ; 
 among others, that riots and tumults have been 
 stirred up in different parts of the country by dis- 
 affected people, but that all of them, however, 
 have been happily suppressed, without much vio- 
 lence. They also told us that no less than eleven 
 ships were destroyed in this country by the ice last 
 year, and as nothing was heard of us after that ca- 
 tastrophe, some unfavourable opinions were enter- 
 tained by many people respecting the fate of our 
 expedition. After remaining for a short time in 
 company with her, we sent some letters on board, 
 in the event of her getting to England before us ; 
 but if they follow the plan they seem to have in 
 view at present, it is probable that we shall be 
 home first ourselves, for they intend going as far 
 north as the latitude of 72°, in order to get round 
 a barrier of ice, which they say extends from the 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ;271 
 
 land a little way to the southward of us, that is, 
 between the 69th and 70th deg. N. as far as the 
 parallel just mentioned. But as we ran down along 
 this coast two years ago, at the same part of the 
 season, without meeting with any ice to obstruct 
 our progress ; and as the avoiding of ice is not so 
 much our object as that of surveying the coast, it 
 is intended, I believe, to continue our course along 
 the land, running all hazards of whatever obstacles 
 we may happen to meet with. Therefore, after 
 parting company with the Lee, we resumed our 
 former course, but keeping rather closer in with 
 the land, in order to see a small party of Esqui- 
 maux, which, they told us, lived near the shore on 
 the north side of a bay, about twenty miles to the 
 southward. In the course of the afternoon we fell 
 in with another whaler, called the Friendship, of 
 Hull, having seventeen fish on board. We received 
 no news of any importance from her, except what 
 is above mentioned. I ought not to omit men- 
 tioning, however, that this ship and another, (the 
 Truelove, of Hull,) were, this summer, at the top 
 of Baffin's Bay, and looked into Sir Thomas Smith's 
 Sound, which they found to be like another of the 
 Sounds of Baffin, a Sound without bottom. They 
 informed us also, that some of the whale-ships en- 
 tered Lancaster's Sound this summer, and, among 
 others, the Alexander, of Aberdeen, one of the 
 ships employed on the former voyage of discovery 
 to these seas. 
 
 Wednesday y 6fJt. — As we were standing in this 
 evening towards the place where the Lee told us 
 the Esquimaux lived, four canoes were observed 
 
'272 A VOYAGH OF DISCOVERY 
 
 paddling towards us. While they were yet at a 
 considerable dis'tance off, we could liear them 
 making a great noise, which they continued to do 
 as they approached us. They came alongside 
 without the least hesitation, and one of our boats 
 being there, our people assisted them in getting 
 out of their canoes, which were all hoisted on 
 board, and helped them up the side. On getting 
 on board, they evinced no signs either of fear or 
 astonishment : on finding themselves in security, 
 their first act was to turn to, to dance ; if turning 
 round, jumping, and other wild gesticulations 
 deserve that appellation. At the same time that 
 they were showing us their accomplishments in the 
 dancing way, they gave us a specimen of their 
 vocal talents also ; but to call the two or three 
 monotonous ejaculations that they uttered, a song, 
 would certainly be a misapplication of the word, 
 for the whole of their melody consisted only of 
 these three words, viz. " hey yey yagh," which 
 they repeated with great rapidity, and with vehe- 
 mence, in proportion to the movements of the 
 body ; these were at first very violent, but by de- 
 grees became more moderate, from being unable, I 
 imagine, to continue such fatiguing exertions. 
 After due time was allowed them to exliibit all their 
 elegant acquirements, we made signs to them to 
 go below, to which proposal they readily assented, 
 and, in order to entertain them in return for their 
 exhibition on deck, two or tree tunes were played 
 on the hand organ. Whether they were cheered 
 by the music, or considered it necessary to con- 
 tinue to amuse us, 1 cannot say for certain ; but 
 
T©' THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 
 
 273 
 
 they skipped about, and hey yey yagh*d more fu- 
 riously than ever. We have reason, however, to 
 think, that all this proceeded more from a desire 
 to please us than from any pleasure they had in it 
 themselves; for one of them, who was an older 
 man than any of the rest, on its being signified to 
 him to sit down in order to have his picture taken, 
 he immediately sat down very composedly, whilst 
 the others were displaying all their antic feats. 
 This old man appeared to be of a very facetious 
 
 disposition, and a very great adept at mimickry ; 
 for now and then, when his attention was drawn 
 off to view the surrounding objects, it was signified 
 
^274 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 to him tlie necessity of maintaining a steady pos- 
 ture ; and in doing so, he used to imitate, with an 
 air of the most complete buffoonery and good 
 liumour, the attitude of the person who was show- 
 ing him the posture that it was wished he should 
 keep himself in. 
 
 This man appeared to be between fifty-five and 
 sixty years of age, for his hair and beard were quite 
 grey. His visage differed materially from that of 
 the rest, particularly in being much narrower. He 
 was also considerably shorter than any of them, 
 for he measured only four feet eleven inches and a 
 half, and the shortest of the others was five feet 
 four inches and a half; the remaining two were 
 nearly of the same height, one measured five ieet 
 five inches and a half, and the other five feet six 
 inches. The two last appeared to be also nearly 
 about the same age, that is, between five-and- 
 twenty and thirty ; the young man did not look 
 to be above one or two and twenty. The Esqui- 
 maux countenance has been so often, and so accu- 
 rately described, that it would be quite unnecessary 
 to enter into a lengthened detail respecting the fea- 
 tures of these people, as they differed in no respect 
 from the numerous accounts already given ; viz. a 
 broad and flat countenance, high-cheek bones, 
 small and deep-sunk eyes, short pug nose, large 
 mouth, thick lips, coarse black and straight hair, 
 and a thin black beard, both on the chin and upper 
 lip, and the colour of the skin somewhat of a light 
 tawny-brown, and greasy. With regard to their 
 clothes, they differed but little also from that worn 
 by the Esquimaux of Greenland. The jackets, or 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 27^ 
 
 rather frocks, of the three young men, were made of 
 of white dog or wolf skin, having the fur-side in, or 
 next their body : they came down as far as the hip- 
 joint; and their lower border was straight all round, 
 with the exception of a small slit in the front : 
 they all had hoods to them, which served for a 
 head-covering. Their breeches were also made of 
 the same kind of skin, but having the fur-side 
 out ; and their boots, which came up to the knee, 
 were likewise made of the same material, and had 
 the fur-side in. The old man's dress was made 
 entirely of seal-skin, but in its shape it differed 
 in no respect from that of the others : it had this 
 peculiarity, however, that his frock had the fur- 
 side of the skin out. Their canoes were made of 
 seal-skin, and of the same shape as those of the 
 Greenlanders, but rather larger, and not near so 
 neat, probably owing to the latter having better 
 instruments to execute their work with. The 
 frames of their canoes were made chiefly of fir- 
 wood, as were also their paddles, \s^ich were 
 about nine feet and a half long, double-headed, 
 and the rim of the blades very neatly edged with 
 bone. Their spears were from four to five feet long, 
 and were made of narwhal's horns : most of them 
 were headed with sharp-pointed pieces of bone ; 
 but one of them had a lance-pointed piece of iron 
 fitted on to the end of his spear ; and the old man 
 had a piece of wood, about the same length as their 
 spears, near one end of which there was a sharp 
 iron hook, made apparently of a nail. They had 
 a scimetar-shaped knife each, made of the tusks 
 of the walrus, or sea-horse j and on each canoe 
 
 T 2 
 
'^7^ A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 there was a large inflated bladder, whiclrl suspect 
 to be that of the same animal. These implements, 
 a few seal-skins, and two or three spare jackets, 
 were all the articles they had, and with all of 
 them they very soon parted ; for, after they had 
 pretty well tired themselves jumping and bawling, 
 they turned to, to barter, and in a very short time 
 disposed of every thing they had, except their 
 canoes, and before they went away, they bartered 
 one of them also. As there was no intention to 
 impose upon them, nothing was offered them 
 except such things as were deemed would be use- 
 ful to them, such as knives, scissars, needles, nails, 
 gimblets, and pieces of wood ; and for the canoe 
 they, or rather the man it belonged to, received 
 four boarding pike-staves, and the heads of five or 
 six of them, several pieces of wood, a handkerchief, 
 a pair of mittens, and a piece of red cloth. One. of 
 our men made them a present of a hand-saw, and an- 
 other gave one of them a red shirt ; beads, looking- 
 glasses, and a number of other things of little value 
 were also given them, but, as I have already re- 
 marked, not in exchange for what they had, but 
 merely as donations. They showed a great deal 
 of intelligence and probity in their dealings; for 
 they evinced no great desire for beads,, or any 
 other baubles, and they never attempted to take 
 any thing except what was given them. We re- 
 marked, that every thing they received they im- 
 mediately touched with their tongue, apparently 
 to show that it was then legally their property. 
 From what we saw of them, they appeared to be 
 perfectly honest, a virtue which has seldom been 
 found amongst uncivilized people. It may be said. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 277 
 
 indeed, in this instance, that they had no great oppor- 
 tunity for pilfering, if they were so disposed ; but 
 if such a disposition existed, it is probable that some 
 symptoms of it would be detected ; but as there 
 were none discovered, it is but a piece of justice 
 due to them to consider them honest, whilst nothing 
 to the contrary can be said against them. We un- 
 derstood, from the people of the Lee, that when 
 they fell in with them, they could hear nothing 
 from them but the word " Pillitey,** which signi- 
 fies, I believe, in the Esquimaux language, Give me 
 something. Of this begging expression, however, 
 they made very little use whilst on board of us, 
 most probably owing to the commercial system 
 that was adopted, from which they soon learned 
 that they had the means of procuring what they 
 wanted, without humbling themselves to beg for 
 it. We endeavoured to learn a few words of their 
 language, or rather we tried to ascertain if it is 
 the same as that spoken by the Esquimaux in other 
 parts of these regions, and as far as our means of 
 deciding this point went, we have reason to sup- 
 pose that it is. The method that was adopted to 
 ascertain this, was by showing them specimens, 
 and drawings, of the different animals that we had 
 reason to think they must be acquainted with. 
 
 Immediately the head of the rein-deer was shown 
 them, they called it " tooktook," and according to 
 Mr. ChappelPs account of the Esquimaux in Hud- 
 son's Straits, they call the deer ** muck-tu." A 
 drawing of a bear, and others of some other ani- 
 mals being shown them, they appeared to know 
 very well what they were intended to represent j, 
 , T 3 
 
278 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 but they talked so much, that it was impossible to 
 say for certain what their names for them were. 
 
 With respect to the musk ox we are not sure 
 that they are acquainted with him, and if they 
 are, it is doubtful what their name for him is ; for 
 although a good drawing, and, afterwards, a head 
 of one of these animals were shown them, they 
 said nothing that appeared to be expressive of his 
 name, until some person pointing to the head, said, 
 umimack, which word they immediately repeated, 
 but pronounced it as if spelt oomingmack. It is 
 doubtful, therefore, whether they understood that 
 we were informing them, that umimack was our 
 name for the animal, or that they were telling us 
 that oomingmack was their name for him. There 
 is one circumstance, however, which may be men- 
 tioned, that tends to strengthen the latter opinion, 
 which is, that the tribe of esquimaux we fell in 
 with near the top of Baffin's Bay two years ago, 
 told Saccheuse (our Esquimaux interpreter) that a 
 large animal, which they called umimack, frequented 
 that country. They described it as having a horn 
 on its back, but this would be so extraordinary a 
 thing, that it is more reasonable to suppose that 
 they meant a hunch, although from the paucity of 
 words in their language they might not have a 
 term to express it. But this is a subject which 
 our present knowledge does not enable us to say 
 much about, with any degree of certainty ; though 
 I think we may take it for granted, that all the 
 Esquimaux tribes that are scattered along the 
 shores of Greenland, North America, and its ad- 
 jacent islands, are the same race of people, and, as 
 far as our observations go their appearance, dress, 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 279 
 
 manners, mode of living, as well as their language, 
 tend to confirm this point. With regard to their 
 origin, most of the writers who have written about 
 them suppose them to be of Samoeid or Tartar 
 descent ; but on this point I have no pretensions to 
 offer an opinion. 
 
 After our visitors had bartered every thing they 
 had to dispose oi\ and we had obtained from them 
 all the information that was possible to be learnt, 
 they were assisted into their canoes again, and a 
 boat was sent with them to land the man that sold 
 his canoe. On leaving the ship they made no 
 signs indicative of taking farewell, but they went 
 away apparently very much pleased with the re- 
 ception they met with, and the bargains they had 
 made. On the way going ashore our boat tried 
 for a little while to pull against them, but our peo- 
 ple soon found that they were no match for them, 
 especially the two young men, for the old man either 
 could not, or did not, exert himself much on the 
 occasion. During this trial an opportunity occurred 
 for observing how quickly they noticed any thing 
 that was said when they could make out the mean- 
 ing of it ; for on hearing the officer who had charge 
 of the boat tell the men to " pull away," they 
 immediately comprehended, from the exertions 
 that were made, that this was an injunction to the 
 men to increase their efforts, and by way of jo- 
 cosely showing their own dexterity, they used to 
 go on a-head of our boat, and call out " Pull away, 
 pull away." Immediately they landed, another of 
 them sold his canoe to the officer that went in the 
 boat, for his dirk, a Flushing-jacket, a shawl that 
 
 T 4 
 
280 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 he had about his neck, a knife, and some beads. 
 It being dark at the time they landed, our people 
 did not see their huts, but they judged afterwards 
 that they were at no great distance from them ; for 
 about a quarter of an hour after they left the 
 shore, on their return, they heard great shouts, 
 apparently of rejoicing ; and amongst them they 
 could distinguish the voices of women and children, 
 or at least voices that they considered to be such. 
 Thursday y '^tii. — We stood in this morning to- 
 wards the fiord, or inlet, where the Esquimaux 
 landed last night, and when we got close in, a boat 
 went ashore to see their habitations, which they 
 found to consist of two huts made of sealskins, 
 and situated close to the beach. The inhabitants 
 of these huts they found to be the four men who 
 visited us last night, four women, and nine chil- 
 dren. One of the women was very old, and was 
 on that account supposed to be the wife of the old 
 man already mentioned. Two of the others were 
 judged to be about thirty years of age, and they 
 were supposed to be the mothers of all the young 
 family : one of them was pregnant. The fourth 
 damsel appeared to be too young to be yet living 
 a conjugal life ; and there was another circum- 
 stance remarked with regard to her, that was 
 considered as a mark that she had not yet ar- 
 rived at the happiness of a matrimonial life. 
 The circumstance alluded to is, that the other 
 three were tattooed, whilst she was not, from which 
 it was supposed, that this barbarous decoration was 
 the distinguishing badge of a married woman. This 
 honourable, and no doubt in their estimation, or- 
 namental piece of artificial beauty, consisted of 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 281 
 
 two. curved lines, extending from the outer comer, 
 or angle of the eyes, down to the upper lip. The 
 convex side of these lines pointed backwards, and 
 their junction at their lower end formed an acute 
 angle. The chin and lower lip were also tattooed, 
 by straight lines, which diverged from the mouth 
 downwards. Whether it was owing to her being 
 free from these barbarous scars, or not, I do not 
 pretend to say, but they who saw her, speak of 
 the young girl, comparatively, as a great beauty ; 
 whilst they describe the old dame as the picture of 
 ugliness. With respect to their dress, the women 
 seem to have been habited nearly in the same 
 manner as the men, namely, in leather-jackets, 
 boots, and breeches. Their huts were about the 
 same shape and size, as the ruins of those that we 
 met with on Melville Island ; but the square place 
 at the end of them, which was supposed, at that 
 time, to be the place where they kept their provi- 
 sions, appears to be their fire-place. They did 
 not find them so filthy inside, as the Esquimaux 
 huts are generally described to be ; but it must be 
 recollected that these were their summer-huts. 
 They found that they lived in a state of great afflu- 
 ence, at least as much so as people, living as they 
 do, could be expected, for they had several stores 
 of sea-horses' flesh, covered with stones, along the 
 beach. And as another proof that they cannot be 
 badly off for provisions, they had no less than fifty 
 or sixty dogs, which alone would require no small 
 quantity of food. Although it is probable that they 
 derive the chief part of their sustenance from the 
 sea, it is probable that they also occasionally ma- 
 
^S2 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 nage to kill deer ; for they showed one of the gen- 
 tlemen that went on shore the skin of one, and 
 made signs to him that the animal had been killed 
 by an arrow, pointing to the hole that the arrow 
 had made. The only bow found amongst them, 
 however, was a small one made of whalebone, that 
 appeared to be intended as a play -thing to one of 
 their children ; but the advantages of such an instru- 
 ment, and the very ordinary ingenuity and means 
 required to make it, render it probable that they are 
 acquainted with the use of the bow and arrow. It 
 may be mentioned, indeed, as a proof of this, that 
 the arrow belonging to the small bow just spoken of 
 was feathered, a circumstance which can hardly 
 be supposed to have been accidentally done to 
 adorn a toy. With respect to their fishing imple- 
 ments, none were seen that differed much from 
 those that they brought on board last night. Some 
 articles were found amongst them, however, which 
 evidently show that they had intercourse, either 
 directly, or through the means of others, with Euro, 
 peans, for they had a piece of a file set into a bone 
 handle, in such a way as to resemble an adze in 
 miniature ; they had also some beads, differ- 
 ent from any that we had given them when they 
 were on board. This place appears, however, to be 
 at present their permanent residence ; for one of 
 the officers who went up a little way into the bay, or 
 inlet where they lived, in order to sound, found 
 their winter-huts there. And certainly, as far as 
 appearances go, they could not get a more eligible 
 situation for their abode in this country j for the 
 inlet is full of small islands, which, I should ima- 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 283 
 
 gine, to be places likely to be very much resorted to 
 by walruses, and in the breeding season, by the 
 different birds which frequent these regions. How 
 far this inlet goes inland, it is impossible for us 
 to say, as we could see nothing like a termina- 
 tion to it : if we were to judge of its extent by the 
 depth of the water in it, we might suppose it to be 
 very considerable ; for we found one hundred and 
 eighty fathoms water within the entrance of it, and 
 not above a mile from the shore. It appeared to 
 be from four to five miles in breadth, as far in as we 
 went. But to return again to the natives of this 
 inlet, I have only further to say of them, that from 
 whati can learn, they all displayed the same spirit of 
 cheerfulness, contentment, and good humour, that 
 they evinced in so eminent a degree on board ; and 
 if they had reason at that time to be well pleased 
 with the bargains they had made, I understand 
 that they had equally as good a cause to be satis- 
 fied with their traffic to-day ; for they got a hat- 
 chet, five brass-kettles, several knives, nails, pieces 
 of wood, beads, and various other things, in ex- 
 change for another of their canoes, a sledge, (made 
 of bones,) fourteen dogs, (most of them puppies,) 
 two stone troughs, made of lapis allaris, or pot- 
 stone, and one or two spears. The stone troughs are 
 exceedingly well made, considering their means; the 
 one was nearly a foot long, and about half that in 
 breadth and depth; the other was considerably 
 larger ; the former served them to cook their vic- 
 tuals in, and the latter to hold the oil or grease 
 that they burnt, to cook them with. The head of 
 one of the spears, which was also made of stone. 
 
284< A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 (clay-slate,) was remarkably well executed; in fact, 
 when we consider that the only instrument they 
 were seen to possess, that could be of any use in 
 making the different articles they had, was the 
 piece of file above mentioned, it is surprising how 
 well they finished everything. Judging, therefore, 
 from these circumstances, we have reason to hope, 
 that with the means we afforded them, they will 
 benefit very considerably for many years to come. 
 Among the occurrences of this day, I omitted to 
 mention, that the sun was beautifully eclipsed from 
 eight to nine o'clock this morning. 
 
 Saturday, 9th, — Nothing of any importance 
 occurred during these two days past j our course 
 has been, along the land, to the southward ; but as 
 we have had but light winds for most part of the 
 time, we have made no great progress. We were 
 at noon to-day about the latitude of 69 J° N. The 
 character of the land at this place differs very 
 materially from that to the northward, for it is, 
 comparatively speaking, low, and even-surfaced. 
 Along the coast, indeed, for about a degree to the 
 northward from this, the land is low near the sea ; 
 but inland it is backed by a range of high hills ; 
 here, however, no high land is visible even in the 
 interior, as far as we can see. 
 
 Sunday y 10th. — We had a strong breeze of wind 
 to-day from the north-west, by compass, so that 
 we had, or rather might have had, a good run to 
 the southward, but most part of the forenoon was 
 occupied in examining a large bay that we crossed. 
 At the bottom, of it there are six or seven high, 
 round-topped islands, one of which is remarkable 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. ^285 
 
 from its being of a reddish colour. When we 
 were abreast of these islands, it blew very fresh 
 indeed off the land, from which I am inclined to 
 think that another inlet runs in here, similar to 
 that where we found the Esquimaux the other 
 day. 
 
 Tuesday f IQth. — We have made very little 
 progress during these two days, owing to there 
 being very little wind, we have also been impeded 
 a good deal by the young ice which forms during 
 the night. The land here is of the same high and 
 rocky character as that to the northward. We 
 passed . a rock yesterday which was very remark- 
 able, for the front of it that faced the sea was at 
 least four hundred feet high, and quite perpendi- 
 cular, and in the front of it there were several 
 white streaks running up and down, which looked 
 at the distance we were from it, columns of the 
 rock. Along this part of the coast there are 
 several small islands, particularly at the entrance 
 of the inlets, or harbours, which abound here in 
 such numbers. 
 
 Wednesday f 13th. — The Aurora Borealis was 
 seen last night, streaming very beautifully from 
 west to south-east ; in the latter direction its 
 motions were very rapid, and its colours were also 
 very, brilliant : the prevailing colour was a light yel- 
 low ; but the outer edge of those coruscations that 
 streamed towards the zenith appeared at different 
 times of a light purple hue. We came this morn- 
 ing to a barrier of ice, extending from the land to 
 the northward and e*astward as far as we could see. 
 Our only alternative was, therefore, to return to 
 
28(i A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 the northward, and endeavour to get across the 
 north end of it. Our progress in this retrograde 
 movement, to-day, was very slow, chiefly for want 
 of wind, and being also very much impeded by the 
 young ice. A number of whales have been seen to- 
 day, and for several days past. 
 
 Saturday^ l6th. — The weather has been so 
 thick during these two days past, that we have 
 been obliged to make fast to a floe, in order to 
 wait for its clearing up to see which way to go ; 
 for we are so surrounded with ice, that by attempt- 
 ing to run at present, we might only hamper 
 ourselves by running into the middle of a pack. 
 We sounded to-day in eight hundred and ten 
 fathoms, soft mud : the temperature of the water 
 at this depth was ascertained by the self-register- 
 ing thermometer to be 27°, that of the surface, at 
 the same time, being 30^-°. By way of experiment, 
 four pieces of wood were fastened to the sounding 
 line on this occasion, which when they came up, 
 were, as might naturally be expected, very much 
 saturated with moisture, from the great pressure of 
 the water at such a depth. The pieces of wood 
 were, one of oak, another of elm, the thii'd of ash, 
 and the fourth of fir ; and they were, as might also 
 be presupposed, saturated in proportion to their 
 density ; that is, the weight of the piece of oak was 
 least, and that of the piece of fir most increased, 
 by the quantity of water forced into them. 
 
 Sunday, IJth. — The weather having cleared up 
 a little this morning, we prepared to cast off; the 
 only preparation, indeed, necessary on the occasion, 
 was to endeavour to get on board one of the 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 287 
 
 Esquimaux dogs, that had been on the ice for these 
 three days past ; but, notwithstanding most of the 
 ship's company were sent after him, he was so 
 wild that it was impossible to get hold of him ; 
 rather, therefore, than leave him to starve, he was . 
 shot. 
 
 Monday, \8th. — The weather still continues 
 foggy, and we meet with a considerable quantity 
 of floe ice, some of which is heavier than any that 
 I remember having seen in Davis's Straits before. 
 In order to avoid danger, we therefore make fast 
 during the night. We sounded to day in eight 
 hundred and ninety seven fathoms ; no bottom. 
 
 Friday, 22d. — Nothing of any importance has 
 occurred during these four days past : the weather 
 has been generally foggy; and our progress to the 
 southward has been very much impeded by the 
 ice, which, as I have already remarked, is heavier 
 than we have been accustomed to meet with 
 in these seas ; for several of the floes that we have 
 passed lately were from two to three feet above 
 the surface of the water, which, from the difterent 
 experiments that we have made on the specific 
 gravity of ice, would make the thickness of these 
 floes, from fifteen to twenty feet. We had an 
 eclipse of the moon this morning ; but from the 
 impossibility of observing the immersion or emer- 
 sion, with any degree of correctness on board of 
 ship, nothing was deduced from it in the way of 
 determining our longitude. We spoke the ship 
 Ellison of Hull, during the night, with fifteen fish 
 on board. 
 
 Saturday, 30th. — This week past has been as 
 
288 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 barren of incidents worthy of notice as any period 
 of equal length, for some time past. We crossed the 
 Arctic circle on the 24th inst. ; and for most part 
 of the time since that, we have had generally coarse 
 weather ; we have now, however, got clear of the 
 ice, and we have kept at such a distance from Cape 
 Farewell, that there is nothing to apprehend what- 
 ever way the wind may blow. Our latitude, to-day, 
 at noon, was 58° 44' 5V\ and longitude by chron. 
 53° 12' W. 
 
 Monday y October Qd. — We have had a gale of 
 wind during these two days past, which moderated 
 considerably in the course of this afternoon. We 
 lost sight of the Griper about six o'clock this 
 morning : she appeared at the time that we last 
 saw her to be lying to. We ran, however, until 
 nine o'clock, at which time the wind began to abate 
 a little, we, therefore, brought to, and waited for 
 her until two in the afternoon ; but as she had not 
 made her appearance, although the weather had 
 by that time cleared up, there was reason to sup- 
 pose that she had taken a different course from 
 that which we came, and had probably passed us 
 before the weather cleared up ; we, therefore, 
 made sail, keeping rather to the northward of our 
 course, in hopes of falling in with her. 
 . Tuesday, 3d. — A vigilant look-out has been 
 kept all day for the Griper, but nothing has as yet 
 been seen of her; so that we now begin to suspect 
 that we shall not see her again until we meet at 
 Shetland, which, I understand, is the appointed 
 place of rendezvous in case of separation. 
 , The Aurora BoreaUs appeared very beautifully 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 289 
 
 from nine till eleven o'clock this evening, forming 
 an arcli extending from east to west across the 
 zenith ; almost the whole of the south side of the 
 hemisphere was indeed illumined by it, but it 
 was not seen to the northward except near the 
 zenith. It presented at different times a beautiful 
 display of some of the prismatic colours, particu- 
 larly the red, orange, yellow, and green ; lake was 
 also a predominant colour in some parts occa- 
 sionally. With respect to the different forms that 
 it assumed, and its various movements, I consider 
 it impossible to give a correct idea of them by 
 words. It appeared sometimes in immense sheets 
 of light, moving rapidly along the surface of the 
 sky, and at other times it darted in straight 
 columns from different parts of the sky towards the 
 zenith. The most remarkable appearance, how- 
 ever, that it presented, was a sort of serpentine 
 motion that it had at one time from west to east, 
 across the zenith. The electrometer was tried, but 
 it was not affected, nor did we hear any noise 
 such as has been said to be produced by this phe- 
 nomenon. Whether the Aurora Borealis dims the 
 light of the stars or not, 1 can hardly pretend to say, 
 but I can affirm this much, that I could see very 
 plainly, in the thickest part of it, the four small 
 stars forming the diamond-shaped figure in the 
 constellation of the Dolphin, from which I imagine 
 that a great part of the dimness that appears to be 
 occasioned, is owing to the stars and Aurora Bo- 
 realis being nearly of the same colour. 
 
 Wednesdai^y 11th. — We picked up this after- 
 noon a piece of pine three feet eleven inches in 
 
 u 
 
290 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY 
 
 length, and seven inches in diameter; it appeared to 
 have been a considerable time in the water ; there 
 was no axe-mark, or that of any other tool, to be seen 
 upon it, so that it is probable that it had been 
 drifted to this place from the coast of America. 
 Our latitude at noon was 6l° 8' N., and longitude, 
 when sights were taken for chronometer in the 
 forenoon, 34° 44' W. Several land-birds, namely, 
 hawks, and wheat-ears, have been seen about the 
 ship at different times for some days past. 
 
 Monday^ l6th. — A heavy gale of wind com- 
 menced very suddenly at nine o'clock in the fore- 
 noon of Saturday last, and continued to blow very 
 violently from that time until noon to-day, and 
 heavy squalls occurred indeed occasionally until 
 three o'clock in the afternoon. During the first 
 night of the gale our stern-boat was carried away 
 by a sea, which struck her. That, however, was 
 a loss that hardly deserves to be mentioned, when 
 compared with what we sustained to-day, for at 
 half-past one o'clock this afternoon, we carried 
 away our bowsprit, fore-mast, (about two feet above 
 the deck,) and main-top-mast, a little above the 
 cap. Our best bower-anchor was also obliged to 
 be cut away, in consequence of some of the wreck 
 getting entangled with it. Notwithstanding the 
 bustle and confusion that were unavoidably occa- 
 sioned by this accident, and the boisterous state 
 of the weather, the ship was cleared of the wreck, 
 and the remaining masts secured without any per- 
 son being hurt. 
 
 Wednesday^ 18th. — All hands have been busily 
 employed during these two days fitting the rigging. 
 
TO THE ARCTIC REGIONS. 291 
 
 and preparing to get jury-masts up : a jury fore- 
 mast was got up indeed to-day, and the main-top- 
 mast is ready for going up to-morrow morning. 
 We saw a strange sail a few miles astern of us in 
 the afternoon, but the weather being thick at the 
 time, we could not make out what she was, and, as 
 the wind was light at the time, she did not come 
 up with us in the course of the evening. 
 
 Thursday^ 19th. — Nothing more has been seen 
 of the vessel just mentioned, whether she steered 
 a different course during the night in order to avoid 
 falling in with us from seeing the state we were in, 
 I cannot pretend to say : but, be that as it may, 
 we are now in a state that does not require her as- 
 sistance even if she was to appear, for we have got 
 a jury-bowsprit rigged, and top-masts up to-day. 
 The wind and weather is still, however, rather un- 
 favourable for us, for the sea has not yet gone 
 down, and the wind is from the southward and 
 eastward. 
 
 Friday y ^Tlth. — Nothing occurred for this week 
 past worthy of any notice ; the wind has been for 
 most part of the time rather against us, and we 
 have had ever since the last gale of wind a heavy 
 swell. We saw three vessels yesterday, one of 
 which showed Prussian colours. Soon after day- 
 light this morning land was descried, which we 
 knew from our latitude to be Fula or Foul Island, 
 one of the Shetland Islands. Our longitude by 
 the chronometers agreed with that in which this 
 island is laid down within three or four miles, 
 which shows the great utility of these machines, if 
 such a proof was wanting; but their use in navi- 
 
 u 2 
 
292 A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. 
 
 gation is too well known to require any comment 
 of mine. 
 
 Saturday, QSth. — We have been running to the 
 southward to-day between Fair Island and Ro- 
 naldsha, both of which were in sight for most part 
 of the day. 
 
 Sunday, '2,9th. — When the weather cleared up 
 at noon to-day, we saw Mormond Hill in Banff- 
 shire, bearing W. S. W. by compass, and distant 
 five or six leagues. I must here conclude my nar- 
 rative, as an order has been issued to-day, re- 
 questing all logs and journals, &c. that have been 
 kept by any person during the voyage to be sealed 
 up, and sent to Mr. Parry, in order to be trans- 
 mitted to the Lords Commissioners of the Admi- 
 ralty. 
 
 In concluding this journal, I may remark that 
 although we have not actually discovered the 
 north-west passage, yet we have so far proved 
 its existence, that 1 presume no person can hence- 
 forth be so sceptical as to doubt it ; and I am even 
 in hopes, indeed, to see the day, when its actual 
 existence will be proved beyond a doubt. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 No. I. — A List of the Officers and Ships' Companies of the 
 
 Expedition. 
 
 HECLA. 
 
 Names, 
 
 Rank or Quality. 
 
 No. 
 
 William Edward Parry, 
 
 Lieut, and Command. 
 
 Frederick William Beechey, 
 
 Lieutenant, 
 
 
 John Edwards, 
 
 Surgeon, 
 
 
 William H. Hooper, 
 
 Purser, 
 
 
 Edward Sabine, 
 
 Captain R. A., 
 
 
 Alexander Fisher, 
 
 Assistant Surgeon, 
 
 
 Joseph Nias, 
 
 Midshipman, 
 
 
 William J. Dealy, 
 
 Ditto, 
 
 
 Charles Palmer, . . . 
 
 Ditto, 
 
 
 James C. Ross, 
 
 Ditto, 
 
 
 John Bushnan, . . _ 
 
 Ditto, 
 
 
 James Halse, 
 
 Clerk, 
 
 
 John Allison, - - - 
 
 Master Pilot, 
 
 
 George Crawford, 
 
 Mate, 
 
 
 James Scallon, - - . 
 
 Gunner, 
 
 
 Jacob Swansea, 
 
 Boatswain, - 
 
 
 William Wallis, 
 
 Carpenter, 
 
 
 Seamen, 
 
 Petty Officers, & A. B. 
 
 33 
 
 Marines (including a Serjeant), 
 
 Serjeant & Privates, 
 
 6 
 
 A Serjeant and private of artillery. 
 
 Artillery-men, 
 
 2 
 
 
 Total 
 
 58 
 
 GRIPER. 
 
 Matthew Liddon, 
 
 Lieut, and Command. 
 
 
 H. P. Hoppner, 
 
 Lieutenant, 
 
 
 Charles J. Beverley, 
 
 Assistant Surgeon, 
 
 
 Andrew Reid, 
 
 Midshipman, 
 
 
 A. M. Skene, 
 
 Ditto, 
 
 
 William A. Griffiths, - - 
 
 Ditto, 
 
 
 Cyrus Wakeham, 
 
 Clerk, 
 
 
 George Fyfe, 
 
 Master Pilot, 
 
 
 Alexander Elder, - - - 
 
 Mate, 
 
 
 Seamen, - - - _ 
 
 Petty Officers, &A.B. 
 
 22 
 
 Marines, - - - 
 
 Corporal & Privates, 
 
 5 
 
 
 Total 
 
 36 
 
294 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. II. — A List of Nautical, Astronomical, Meteorological, 
 and other Instruments supplied to the Expedition. The Num- 
 bers in the right-hand column refer to the portion of the 
 different Articles supplied to the Griper, and consequently those 
 in the middle column to the number kept on board the Hecla. 
 
 Instruments supplied to the Expedition. 
 
 Astronomical clocks and stands ... 2 
 
 Altitude instruments 4 
 
 Artificial horizons 6 
 
 Azimuth compasses 8 
 
 Anglometers 4 
 
 Barometers (marine) 4 
 
 Ditto (mountain) 4 
 
 Beam compasses 2 
 
 Brass scales 2 
 
 Chronometers 
 
 Compasses (steering) 4 
 
 Circular protractors 2 
 
 Cyanameters 2 
 
 Charts, boxes of 2 
 
 Drawing instruments, cases 2 
 
 Dip sectors 2 
 
 Dipping needle 1 
 
 Dip-steering needle 1 
 
 Electrometers 2 
 
 Electric chains 2 
 
 Gunter scales 2 
 
 Hydrometers 2 
 
 Hygrometers 2 
 
 Hydrophorus 1 
 
 Instrument for magnetic force 1 
 
 Micrometer 1 
 
 Parallel rulers 4 
 
 Portable observatory 1 
 
 Repeating circle 1 
 
 Thermometers 20 
 
 Ditto (register) 1 
 
 Theodolites, (one small and the 
 
 other 7 inch) 2 
 
 Transit instrument 1 
 
 Telescopes (2 feet) 6 
 
 Variation transit , 1 
 
 Ditto needle 1 
 
 Water bottles 3 
 
 Hecla. 
 
 2 
 2 
 3 
 4 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 1 
 1 
 
 3 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 box 
 1 case 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 2 
 2 
 1 
 1 
 2 
 1 
 I 
 1 
 2 
 1 
 1 
 10 
 
 I 7 inch 
 1 
 4 
 1 
 1 
 2 
 
 Griper. 
 
 box 
 case 
 
 10 
 1 
 
 1 small 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 295 
 
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APPENDIX. 
 
 311 
 
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312 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 No. IV. — A DIAGRAM, 
 
 Exhibiting a Series of Azimuths taken on every second point of the Compass, 
 for the purpose of determining the Deviation on board His Majesty's ship 
 Hecla, July 2i-th, 1819, in latitude 73° 00' N. long. 60° 26' W. 
 
 In tlie above diagram, tlie k'tlers contained in the outer circle represent tiie direction of tlic 
 sliip's liead wlien the azimuths were taken ; the circle next to it shews the amount of the vari- 
 ation observed on each direction of the ship's head : the figures on the left side * of the rhumb- 
 lines being taken by one of Kater's azimuth compasses, and those on the right side of tlie same 
 lines, by a card of Mr. Jennings (placed on tlie stand of Walker's azimuth compass), having 
 two magnetic needles placed at right angles to one another. The figures on the left side of the 
 rhumb-lines in the next circle, are die mean of the two observations, which is taken as being 
 likely tiie nearest approximation to the truth : tlie figures on tlie right side of the rhumb-lines in 
 this circle, shew the ditlerence between the mean variation observed on each direction of the ship's 
 head, and the true variation, as observed on the ice, which, by the mean of twenty-six azimuths, 
 was found to be H'2^ W. Tiie figures in the inner circle are tlie sum of the two opposite points, 
 which is presumed to be tiie true variation on tliese points; finally, the mean of all the observ- 
 ations, when summoned uji, were 80° 48' 39'' 3T" W. 
 
 • As this term may, in the present insUince, be misunderstood, it is necessary to observe, that 
 the figures on the left side of the rhumb-line, North, arc 8 P 43' 10'', and on the right side 
 80'-' 57' '10 ', and so oiu 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 313 
 
 No. V. — A DIAGRAM, 
 
 Shewing the deviation of the compasses on board His Majesty's ship 
 Hecla, at Northfleet, May 6th, 1819. The magnetic dip, or vertical incH- 
 flation of tlie magnetic needle, being 74'' 35'. The manner in which tlie 
 experiment was performed, is thus : — the true magnetic bearings of some 
 ^listant object on shore was obtained, which, in this instance, was the steeple 
 of a church, bearing E. 6° 30' N. The inner circle shews the beai'ings of the 
 steeple, with the ship's head on each of the. rhumb-lines, except west, 
 
 W. by S. and W. S. W.; and the middle circle contains the amount of the 
 deviation on those points, which is equal to the difference between the true 
 magnetic bearings of the steeple ; and its bearings with the ship's head on 
 the different rhumb-lines marked in the outer circle. 
 
311 APPENDIX. 
 
 ^Q^ YJ, — Copi/ oj the Paper contained in the Bottle thrown 
 overboardy Mai/ 22d, 1819- 
 
 " His Majesty's Ship Hecla, at two o'clock P.M., on the 
 '22d of May, 1819, latitude 59' 4' N., longitude 6° 55' W., light 
 breezes and fine weather, wind East, Griper in company. All 
 well. Temperature of the air, 51^°. Sea water, 48f ." 
 
 (Signed) W. E. PARRY, Lieutenant and Commander 
 
 «j^ '< Whoever finds this paper, is requested to forward it to 
 the Secretary of the Admiralty, London, with a note of 
 the time and place at which it was found." 
 
 qt^ " Quiconque trouvera ce papier, est prie d'y marquer le 
 tems et lieu ou il I'aura trouve, et de le faire parvenir 
 au plutot au Secretaire de I'Amiraute Britannique a 
 Londres." 
 
 «j^ << Quienquiera hallara este papel, esta pedido de enviarlo 
 al Secretario del Almirantazgo, a Londres, con una 
 nota del tiempo y del lugar en los quales se hallo el 
 dicho papel." 
 
 ^rf' " Enhver som finder dette papur, anmodes at insende samme 
 unfortovet til Regjeringen i Tuobenhavn eller i Stock- 
 holm, eller til Secretairen af det Brittiske Admiralitet 
 i London, med bemserkning angaaende tiden naar, og 
 stedet hvor papiret er fundet." 
 
 ot^ " Een ieder die dit papier mogt vinden, wordt hiermede 
 verzogt, om het zelve, ten spoedigste, te willen zenden, 
 aan den Heer Minister van de Marine der Nederlanden 
 in 'S Gravenhage, of evel aan den Secretari der Britsche 
 Admiraliteit, tc London, en da by te voegen eene nota, 
 inhoudende de tyd en de plaats alwaar dit papier is 
 gevonden geworden." 
 
APPENDIX. 315 
 
 No. VI. — continued. 
 
 (^iM^aaU^ A/TL^f Haifa ^e TTiay ceu ^{lcttiz, 
 Jocnvaiuw^ii/ruccmhy^^^oen H6 t/D^ 
 C47l£^j03Ha UM,z Hay c^Uc^ .AAJcnrnj^/je.. 
 
S\i) 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Copy of a TIDE-TABLE kept on board His Majesty's Ship 
 llccla, from the 4th of May to the 21st of June, 1820, 
 in Winter Harbour, Melville Island. 
 
 
 
 
 Rise of the 
 
 Fall of the 
 
 Time. 
 
 
 Tide from last 
 
 Tide from last 
 
 
 
 
 low Water. 
 
 high Water. 
 
 Day of the Month. 
 
 Hour and 
 Minute. 
 
 A. M. or 
 P. M. 
 
 Feet and 
 Inches. 
 
 Feet and 
 Inches. 
 
 
 h. m. 
 
 
 ft. in. 
 
 ft. in. 
 
 May 4th, 1820. 
 
 5 45 
 Mid. 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 1 5 
 
 May 5th 
 
 6 
 30 
 
 A.M. 
 P.M. 
 
 2 3§ 
 
 2 2 
 
 
 6 45 
 
 P.M. 
 
 1 H 
 
 
 May 6th 
 
 45 
 > 7 20 
 
 A.M. 
 A.M. 
 
 2 1 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 2 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 1 11 
 
 
 8 
 
 P. M. 
 
 11^ 
 
 
 May 7 th 
 
 2 30 
 9 
 
 A.M. 
 A.M. 
 
 1 Hi 
 
 Hi 
 
 
 4 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 i| 
 
 
 11 
 
 P.M. 
 
 1 5 
 
 
 May 8tli 
 
 4 
 10 45 
 
 A.M. 
 A.M. 
 
 2 5 
 
 1 5i 
 
 
 5 45 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 7i 
 
 
 11 15 
 
 P. M. 
 
 2 H 
 
 
 May 9th 
 
 5 30 
 Noon 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 9 
 
 1 IH 
 
 
 5 45 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 3 H 
 
 May lOtli 
 
 12 
 
 A.M. 
 
 « Hi 
 
 
 
 G 20 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 2 10 
 
 
 12 20 
 
 P.M. 
 
 3 2 
 
 
 
 6 15 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 3 9 
 
 May 11th 
 
 1 
 
 7 15 
 
 A.M. 
 A.M. 
 
 3 8 
 
 3 4 
 
 
 1 
 
 P. M. 
 
 3 6i 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 3 8i 
 
 Blay 12th 
 
 1 15 
 7 30 
 
 A.M. 
 A.M. 
 
 3 8i 
 
 3 fii 
 
 
 1 30 
 
 P.M. 
 
 3 7 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 P. M. 
 
 
 3 10 
 
 Miiy 13th 
 
 1 45 
 
 A.M. 
 
 4 1 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 4 2 
 
 
 2 10 
 
 P.M. 
 
 3 H 
 
 
 
 8 15 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 3 71 
 
 May Mill 
 
 2 15 
 8 45 
 
 A.M. 
 A.M. 
 
 ^ H 
 
 * 
 
 :5 s^ 
 
 
 .3 
 
 P. M. 
 
 3 3 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 3 .3 
 
 May \r>ih 
 
 3 20 
 
 A.M. 
 
 3 10 
 
 
 
 9 30 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 3 8 
 
 
 3 30 
 
 P.M. 
 
 3 O 
 
 
 
 9 30 
 
 P. M. 
 
 
 3 1 
 
'" 
 
 TIDE TABLE — continued. 
 
 l^X/ 
 
 
 
 
 Rise of the 
 
 Fall of the 
 
 Time. 
 
 
 Tide from last 
 
 Tide from last 
 
 
 
 
 low Water. 
 
 high Water. 
 
 Day of the Month. 
 
 Hour and 
 Minute. 
 
 A. M. or 
 P. M. 
 
 Feet and 
 Inches. 
 
 Feet and 
 Inches. 
 
 
 h. m. 
 
 
 ft. in. 
 
 ft. in. 
 
 May 16th, 1820, 
 
 3 30 
 
 A.M. 
 
 3 8 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 A. M. 
 
 
 3 1 
 
 
 4 
 
 P.M. 
 
 2 3 
 
 
 
 10 25 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 6i 
 
 May 17th 
 
 4 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 9i 
 
 
 
 10 50 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 2 7 
 
 
 4 45 
 
 P. M. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 
 
 May 18th 
 
 5 15 
 
 A. M. 
 
 2 6 
 
 
 
 11 30 
 
 A. M. 
 
 
 2 2^ 
 
 
 5 45 
 
 P. M. 
 
 I H 
 
 
 
 Mid. 
 
 
 
 1 3 
 
 May 19th 
 
 6 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 12 15 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 1 lOi 
 
 
 6 30 
 
 P.M. 
 
 1 2 
 
 
 May 20th 
 
 30 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 1 01 
 
 
 7 
 
 A.M. 
 
 1 n 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 1 n 
 
 
 8 15 
 
 P.M. 
 
 1 
 
 
 May 21st 
 
 2 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 8 30 
 
 A.M. 
 
 1 9 
 
 
 
 2 25 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 1 8 
 
 
 9 
 
 P.M. 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 May 22d 
 
 3 15 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 9 30 
 
 A.M. 
 
 1 6 
 
 
 
 4 10 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 1 11 
 
 
 10 30 
 
 P.M. 
 
 1 6 
 
 
 May 23d 
 
 4 45 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 1 4i 
 
 
 11 
 
 A.M. 
 
 1 6 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 H 
 
 
 11 45 
 
 P.M. 
 
 2 H 
 
 
 May 24th 
 
 6 
 Noon 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 
 
 1 5i 
 
 
 6 30 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 I Hi 
 
 May 25th 
 
 15 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 3| 
 
 
 
 6 45 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 2 2 
 
 
 12 20 
 
 P.M. 
 
 2 H 
 
 
 
 6 30 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 11§ 
 
 May 26th 
 
 40 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 »i 
 
 
 
 7 15 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 2 71 
 
 
 1 
 
 P.M. 
 
 2 7i 
 
 
 
 6 30 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 3 H 
 
 May 27th 
 
 1 25 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 5i 
 
 
 
 7 30 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 3 1 
 
 
 1 45 
 
 P.M. 
 
 2 11 
 
 
 ' 
 
 7 30 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 3 21 
 
318 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 TIDE TABLE — coiUhmed. 
 
 
 
 
 Rise of the 
 
 Fall of the 
 
 Time. 
 
 
 Tide from last 
 
 Tide from last 
 
 
 
 
 low Water. 
 
 high Water. 
 
 Day of the Month. 
 
 Hour and 
 
 Minute. 
 
 A. M. or 
 P. M. 
 
 Feet and 
 Inches. 
 
 Feet and 
 Inches. 
 
 
 h. m. 
 
 
 ft. in. 
 
 ft. in. 
 
 May 28th 
 
 2 
 
 A.M. 
 
 3 7 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 2 10 
 
 P.M. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 8 25 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 
 May 29th 
 
 2 30 
 
 A.M. 
 
 3 10 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 3 7 
 
 
 3 
 
 P.M. 
 
 3 3 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 3 6 
 
 May 30th 
 
 3 
 
 A.M. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 9 15 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 3 
 
 P.M. 
 
 2 71 
 
 
 
 9 30 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 3 H 
 
 May 31st 
 
 3 50 
 
 A.M. 
 
 3 7^ 
 
 
 
 10 15 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 3 3| 
 
 
 3 30 
 
 P.M. 
 
 2 7 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 7 
 
 June 1st 
 
 4 15 
 
 A.M. 
 
 3 4 
 
 
 
 4 45 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 3 4 
 
 
 4 30 
 
 P.M. 
 
 2 2i 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 3 
 
 June 2d 
 
 5 10 
 
 A.M. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 11 30 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 2 lOi 
 
 
 6 
 
 P.M. 
 
 1 8 
 
 
 
 Mid. 
 
 
 
 1 10^ 
 
 June 3d 
 
 6 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 9 
 
 
 
 45 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 6i 
 
 
 7 
 
 P.M. 
 
 I 9 
 
 
 June 4th 
 
 1 15 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 1 H 
 
 
 7 30 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 9 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 H 
 
 
 8 
 
 P.M. 
 
 1 6 
 
 
 June 5th 
 
 2 30 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 I 8 
 
 
 8 30 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 7 
 
 
 
 3 5 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 5§ 
 
 
 9 15 
 
 P.M. 
 
 1 lOX 
 
 
 June 6th 
 
 3 45 
 
 A. M. 
 
 
 1 8 
 
 
 9 40 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 5 
 
 
 
 4 30 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 10 
 
 
 10 30 
 
 P.M. 
 
 2 4 
 
 
 June 7th 
 
 4 40 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 2 1^ 
 
 
 10 .30 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 6i 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 6i 
 
 
 11 
 
 P.M. 
 
 2 6^ 
 
 
 June Stli 
 
 5 30 
 Noon 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 10 
 
 2 9 
 
 
 6 10 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 10 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 319 
 
 TIDE TABLi: — continued. 
 
 
 
 
 Rise of the 
 
 Fall of the 
 
 Time. 
 
 
 Tide from last 
 
 Tide from last 
 
 
 
 
 low Water. 
 
 high Water. 
 
 Day of the Month. 
 
 Hour and 
 Minute. 
 
 A. M. or 
 P. M. 
 
 Feet and 
 Inches. 
 
 Feet and 
 Inches. 
 
 
 h. m. 
 
 
 ft. in. 
 
 ft. in. 
 
 June 9th 
 
 SO 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 10| 
 
 
 
 6 40 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 2 11^ 
 
 
 45 
 
 P.M. 
 
 3 0| 
 
 
 
 6 50 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 3 li 
 
 June 10th 
 
 55 
 
 A.M. 
 
 3 4 
 
 
 
 7 10 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 3 3 
 
 
 1 15 
 
 P.M. 
 
 2 11 
 
 
 
 7 15 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 3 1^ 
 
 June 11th 
 
 1 40 
 
 A.M. 
 
 3 6i 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 3 7 
 
 
 1 50 
 
 P.M. 
 
 2 11 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 3 1 
 
 June 12th 
 
 2 45 
 
 A.M. 
 
 3 6 
 
 
 
 8 35 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 3 5 
 
 
 2 50 
 
 P.M. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 3 4 
 
 June l.'Jth 
 
 3 30 
 
 A.M. 
 
 3 8J 
 
 
 
 9 40 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 3 6§ 
 
 
 3 15 
 
 P.M. 
 
 2 11 
 
 
 
 9 25 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 11^ 
 
 June 14th 
 
 3 40 
 
 A.M. 
 
 3 7 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 3 li 
 
 
 4 
 
 P.M. 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 9 45 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 3 2 
 
 June 15th 
 
 4 30 
 
 A.M. 
 
 3 5 
 
 
 
 10 30 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 3 1 
 
 
 4 35 
 
 P.M. 
 
 2 3 
 
 
 
 10 40 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 10 
 
 June 16th 
 
 4 50 
 
 A.M. 
 
 3 3 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 2 10 
 
 
 4 30 
 
 P.M. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 1 
 
 June 17th 
 
 6 15 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 10 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 7 
 
 
 7 15 
 
 P.M. 
 
 2 0§ 
 
 
 
 Mid. 
 
 
 
 2 4 
 
 June 18th 
 
 6 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 6i 
 
 
 
 45 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 4 
 
 
 7 
 
 P.M. 
 
 1 6 
 
 
 June 19th 
 
 1 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 1 5 
 
 
 7 30 
 
 A.M. 
 
 1 10 
 
 
 
 1 45 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 2 0§ 
 
 
 8 
 
 P.M. 
 
 1 81 
 
 
 June 20th 
 
 2 
 
 A.M. 
 
 
 1 8 
 
 
 8 
 
 A.M. 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 P.M. 
 
 
 1 4 
 
320 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 TIDE TABLE— conlimted. 
 
 Time. 
 
 Rise of the 
 
 Tide from last 
 
 low ^Vater. 
 
 Fall of the 
 
 Tide from last 
 
 high Water. 
 
 Day of the IVIonth. 
 
 Hour and 
 Minute. 
 
 A. M. or 
 P.M. 
 
 Feet and 
 Inches. 
 
 Fget and 
 Inches. 
 
 June 20tli 
 June 21st 
 
 h. m. 
 
 10 
 4 
 
 10 
 4 
 9 .30 
 
 P.M. 
 A. M. 
 A.M. 
 P.M. 
 P.M. 
 
 ft. in. 
 
 2 
 
 1 7 
 1 8 
 
 ft. in. 
 I 11 
 1 9 
 
 THE END. 
 
 Printed by A. and II. Spottiswoodc, 
 Printers Street, Londou. 
 
14 DAY USE 
 
 RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED 
 
 LOAN DEPT. 
 
 This book is due on the last date stamped below, or 
 
 on the date to which renewed. 
 
 Renewed books are subject to immediate recalL 
 
 24Ma„g. 
 
 
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 TT^o^i c/^ ,1 I/JO General Library 
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