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 luterior of Trinity Claurch, New York.
 
 SHORT NOTES 
 
 OF 
 
 TOUES IN AMERICA AND INDIA. 
 
 p.v 
 
 J. T. :,[AYNE, 
 
 ASSISTANT IN Bf,Vl..NlE BOARD OFFICE, 
 AXD OllOANISI OF THE ( ATHtDKAL, MADUAS 
 
 MADRAS: 
 G-ANTZ BROTHERF, 
 
 ADELPHI TRKSS, 17?, MOUNT ROAD. 
 
 ] S69.
 
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 Much that is contained in the following pages will,., 
 I fear, be considered a very old story, seeing that 
 my tour in America was made in 1859, just ten 
 years ago. The notes of tliat tour, which were compil- 
 ed after my return to England, partly from notes and 
 partly from actual letters, were tlirown into the latter 
 form entirely ; as beim^ on the whole the easiest style 
 of writing for an inexperienced and " untrained" 
 author. My little brochure would have seen the 
 light (as much of it at least as is generally visible 
 in London) nine years ago, had I been able to induce 
 any one to publish it ; whi(;]i, as I may as well con- 
 fess, I was not. The remembrance of this not very 
 encouraging circumstance, together with the painful 
 consciousness of the existence, in these letters, of a 
 good deal of " twaddle'' made me hesitate as to 
 the expediency of publishing them now : but as I 
 think some points are touched on, relating to matters 
 ecclesiastical, which have been overlooked by most 
 writers of '^ American notes," I venture to hope that 
 some wheat may be extracted from the bundle of 
 chaff, with which my readers are presented, and 
 Avhich I the less scruple to burden them with, in 
 that " cliaff " of another description will, I doubt not, 
 overwhelm me for my presumption in thus rushing 
 into print. 
 
 357196
 
 11 
 
 The notes of a tour in Bombay and Bengal were 
 published originally in that much vilified print the 
 " Madras Churchman^' and as several people were 
 pleased to say, that the notes had interested them, and 
 as my American letters by themselves would have 
 made up a volume of utterly contemptible proportions. 
 I have been induced to re-publish my slight expe- 
 riences of the East along with those of the West. 
 
 J. T. M. 
 
 Madras, January 1869.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PART L— LETTERS FROM AMERICA. 
 
 Letter I. — Description of the " Arabia" Steamship — The voyage 1 
 
 Lettek II.— Arrival at Halifax — The Harbour— Fort — Description of 
 
 the City 9 
 
 Letter III.— The Churches of Halifax — S. Paul's — S. George's — 
 "Salem" Chapel — S. Luke's Cathedral — Roman Church — 
 
 Style of services — Climate of Halifax 17 
 
 Letter IV. — Departure from Halifax : Arrival at Boston — Hotel coaches 
 
 and ferry steamers 22 
 
 Letter V. — Hotels — Revere House — Street Pailways — Cambridge — 
 Harvard College — Chapel — Observatory — Christ Church — State 
 House — Tremont Temple — Music Hall — Theatres — Dockyard — 
 
 Bunker's Hill 26 
 
 Letter VI.— Boston Clinrches : Church of the Advent — Trinity — S. 
 Paul's — Stone Chapel — System of Fire alarms — Climate of 
 
 Boston 35 
 
 Letter VII. — Departure from Boston — American Railway — Steamer 
 
 " Metropolis" — Arrival at New York 39 
 
 Letter VIII. — General description of New York — Broadway — Fifth 
 
 Avenue — Central Park — Theatres — Barnum's Museum — Hotels. 45 
 IjETTER IX. — The Shipping of New York — Ocean Steamers— The Col- 
 lins and Cunard lines of Mail Steamei's 58 
 
 Letter X. —The Churches of New York : Trinity— S. Paul's— S. 
 John's— Trinity Chapel — Grace Church — Calvary Church— S. 
 Thomas' — Church of the Holy Innocents — Madison Street Mis- 
 sion—Church of the Holy Communion — Roman Churches — 
 Unitarian Meeting House — Church feeliug in New York — 
 
 American Prayer Book— Church papers 65 
 
 Letter XI. — American Society— Departure from New Y'ork — Hudson 
 River — Railway journey between Albany and Niagai-a — Fire at 
 
 Lockport — Arrival at Niagara— Sound of the Falls 77 
 
 Lettkr XII. — Niagara — Description of the Falls — Moonlight visit to 
 Goat Island — Visit to Brock's Monument and the Whirl- 
 pool — Buffalo — Roman Cathedral — Lake Erie — Steamer " Wes- 
 tern Metropolis" 85
 
 IV 
 
 Letter XIII. — Departure from Niagara — Steamer on Lake Ontario — 
 Kingston— River S. Lawrence — Lake of the Thousand Islands 
 — Rapids of the S. Lawrence — Montreal — Roman Cathedral — 
 New Anglican Cathedral — Festival of Corpus Christi — An ill 
 spent Sunday afternoon— Convents— Departure from Mon- 
 treal — Lake Champlaiti — Lake George — Fort William Heury — 
 Charmiug specimen of an American Railway — Saratoga — Alba- 
 ny—Roman Cathedral and Church of S. Joseph — Return to 
 Boston 93 
 
 Cetter XIV. — State of Organ building in America — Organs built by 
 Erben of New York — Hook of Boston, and Simmons and Wilcox 
 of Boston — Brooklyn — Trinity Church — American Oysters and 
 Lager Beer 106 
 
 Letter XV. — Excitability of the New Yorkers — The Japanese Embas- 
 sy " Sensation"— The " Great Eastern'' Excitement — Arrival of 
 the "Great Eastern" 112 
 
 Journal kept on board the " Great Eastera"... _ 117 
 
 PART II.— NOTES OF A SHORT TOUR THROUGH THE 
 
 NORTHERN PRESIDENCIES. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Chapter 1.— Madras to Beypore— Voyage to Bombay — Bombay— Cola- 
 
 ba Church- Cathedral. 133 
 
 Chapter IL — Bombay continued — Towers of Silence — ^lalabar Hill — 
 
 Elephanta — Regatta in the HarVjour — Bhore Ghaut. 146 
 
 Chapter III. — Bombay to Nagpore— Church at Nagpore — Nagpore to 
 Jubbulpore — Marble Rocks — Jubbulpore to AUaliabad —Church 
 
 at Allahabad 151 
 
 Chapter IV. — Ddbi — Railway Station — Fort — Palace — Station Church 
 
 — S. Stephen's Jlemorial Church 158 
 
 Chapter V. — JurnmaMn.sjid— Kootub — Cashmere Gate — Arrival atAgra. 164 
 
 Chapter VI. — Agra — Fort— Taj— Akbai's Tomb— Cawnpore 169 
 
 Chapter VII. — Lucknow — Kaiser Bagh — llesidency — Martiniere — 
 Church — Benares — View from the River— College— Calcutta — 
 
 Cathedral 174 
 
 Chapter VIII.— S. John's Church— Fort Church— S. James's Church.... 184 
 Chapter IX. — Bishop's College — Diiin Duni — Climate of Calcutta, &c., 
 
 —Return to Madras 189
 
 LETTERS FEOM AMERICA.
 
 LETTER I. 
 
 On board the " Arabia/' 
 January 1859. 
 
 This is the first day, since we fairly lost sight of Old England, 
 that I have been able to collect my thoughts and writing 
 materials, and to keep them sufficiently steady for a letter. 
 Commend me to an Atlantic voyage in January, for an 
 experience of the rise and progress of sea-sickness ! But 
 I know you would like me to " begin at the beginning," as 
 I used to say in those long bye-gone days, when my greatest 
 delight was in listening to the stories, original and otherwise, 
 of which you had so large a store. I however have nothing to 
 tell you at all resembling those old stories, but only some very 
 matter-of-fact occurrences. It was a cold, foggy afternoon, 
 when E. and I drove down to the landing-stage at Liverpool, 
 accompanied by two friends, who were to see us safe on board 
 the " Arabia" steam-ship, then at anchor in the Mersey, with 
 her steam up, and ready for a start. On leaving the cab, we 
 formed a small procession, in which my luggage took the 
 lead, and with some diflficulty made our way to a small red- 
 funnelled steamer, moored at one corner of the landing-stage. 
 About twenty of our future fellow-passengers were already on 
 board the little vessel, most of them accompanied like our-
 
 selves by friends, determined to see the last of them. It was 
 about as dreary a day, for leaving home, for the first time 
 on an Atlantic voyage, as could well be imagined, and I 
 thought, with a shudder, of the Nova Scotian winter that lay 
 before us. Water and sky were all of one colour. At the 
 wharf, alongside of which we were moored, the ferry steamers 
 were bobbing up and down, under the influence of a very 
 decided swell, which (together with the strong south-west 
 wind then blowing) conjured up sundry frightful reminis- 
 cences of sea-sickness, not to be prevented from changing into 
 equally frightful anticipations ; even by the remembrance of 
 the large stock of chloroform with which I was provided. 
 Beyond the steamers, the forms of sundry vessels riding at 
 anchor, could be indistinctly seen ; whilst beyond them again, 
 was an obscure something, which, by those acquainted with 
 the locality, might have been recognized as Birkenhead. 
 After a delay of about ten minutes, the lines were cast off", and 
 we steamed out into the mist, in search of the " Arabia." I 
 strained my eyes to the utmost, in vain endeavours to dis- 
 tinguish the vessel that was to be our home for the next 
 fortnight ; but at last gave up the attempt in despair, and 
 wrapping my warm cloak more closely round me, sat down 
 and turned my attention to other matters. I was roused by 
 a sudden jerk ; and on looking up, found our little steamer 
 overshadowed by a huge round stern, with the red ensign 
 flying on the stafi", and the name " Arabia" printed 
 above some sham stern-windows. We slowly glided up to 
 the gangway, and soon our little party was safely transfer- 
 red from the small ship to the large one. As you have never 
 seen one of the justly-celebrated " Cunard Steamers," I think 
 I may as well pause here and give you a description of our 
 ship. As all these vessels are arranged in much the same 
 way, to describe one, is to give a pretty fair idea of all. The 
 " Arabia" is a ship of about 2,400 tons measurement, includ-
 
 3 
 
 ing her engine-room. She is 300 feet long over all, by 41 
 broad, and about 36 feet deep from the upper or spar-deck. 
 She has two funnels, painted red with black tops ; and two 
 masts, both fully rigged with square sails. Her engines are 
 of 1000 horse power, the paddle wheels being 36 feet in 
 diameter. 
 
 So much for her external appearance. And now as regards 
 her passenger arrangements. The upper deck of all may be 
 called the promenade or spar-deck, and extends the entire 
 length of the vessel, though not the whole width. It is, in 
 fact, the roof of a long deck-house which occupies the greater 
 portion of the main-deck— (save where interrupted by the 
 crank hatches) — leaving a long narrow strip of the deck on 
 each side, open to the air. This is so, however, only on the 
 after-portion of the vessel, as, forward of the after-most fun- 
 nel. The spar-deck extends the whole width of the ship, thus 
 completely shutting in the main-deck. This arrangement, 
 however, is peculiar to the " Arabia," the other vessels of 
 the Company having the forward-part of the deck similar to 
 the after-end. This spar-deck forms the favourite resort of 
 the passengers in fine weather, but when the spray is flying 
 too much to render the position pleasant, the narrow open 
 strips of the main-deck on each side of the deck-house be- 
 come the fashionable promenade. And now for the contents 
 of this deck-house. At the extreme stern you have the 
 steering chamber, with a raised roof with glass windows all 
 round, so as to allow the steersman to see well forward on 
 the spar-deck. There are generally only two wheels on the 
 axle, though in bad weather I believe another one can be 
 added. On each side of the steering chambers, are cabins for 
 two of the officers. In front of these, comes the chief dining 
 saloon. This is a handsome room about 70 feet long by 20 
 broad, and 8 feet high. It is fitted up in the ordinary way? 
 and is well lighted by seven large windows on each side. Of
 
 course there is the usual quantity of mirrors and maple wood. 
 Forward of this, and separated from it by a passage is the 
 steward's pantry. This passage is indeed the entrance hall 
 and has a door on each side opening from the main-deck. On 
 each side of the saloon door is a well-filled book-case, and on 
 each side of the pantry or bar-room door opposite, is a stair- 
 case leading down to the sleeping cabins, &c. on the lower 
 deck. Continuing, however, our course forward, we pass in 
 succession the captain^s cabin and the kitchen. Here the deck- 
 house ends, or rather seems to have split asunder, to make way 
 for the crank hatches, as there are cabins on each side of the 
 deck ; at this point, for the use of the purser, baker, car- 
 penter, &c., and last, though not least, the cow. Beyond 
 the crank hatches, the deck-house joins itself together again 
 in the centre of the vessel, and contains, in succession, the 
 Engineer's cabin, the forward saloon, and lower deck stair- 
 case, and the seamen's berths, together with a number of other 
 places which I cannot now enumerate. I forgot to mention 
 that the entrance gangway is through the bulwarks of the 
 main-deck, nearly opposite the saloon door, and close to it is 
 the staircase leading up on to the spar-deck. The lower 
 deck is occupied for its entire length (save where interrupted 
 by the engine room) by a row of state rooms along each side. 
 The entire centre space forward is also occupied by state 
 rooms, and about fifty feet of the length aft, there being room 
 in the remaining portion for two small saloons — one for 
 gentlemen, the other for ladies. This latter is very prettily 
 furnished, and the whole of the cabins are well ventilated, 
 and have a height of 8 feet. Having thus endeavoured to 
 give to you some idea of our ship, I will resume the narrative 
 of my journey. My first move after seeing my luggage safely 
 transferred from the tender to the " Arabia," was to rush into 
 the saloon to secure a place at table. I might have spared 
 myself the trouble. Only two tables, out of eight, were
 
 required for our small number, and had I foreseen the very 
 slight acquaintance I was destined to form with the dinner 
 table, I should have given myself no anxiety on the subject. 
 As the time for departure drew near, our friends who were 
 not to accompany us began to make their adieus, and the 
 greater portion of them left in the steamer which brought us 
 on board. My friends, however, determined to see the very 
 last of us, obtained permission to land in the steamer which 
 was to bring the mails. We accordingly sought the upper 
 deck, and had been promenading up and down for some 
 time deeply engaged in conversation, when thinking I felt 
 some motion, I looked up, and lo ! the long white wake 
 astern shewed that we were positively off. The dismay of 
 my friends may be imagined. They fully made up their 
 minds to an unexpected Atlantic trip. To our great relief, 
 however, we soon saw the little tender waiting for us ; and 
 as we passed her, she steamed up alongside, and without 
 either vessel stopping, the mail-bags were brought on board, 
 while my friends tumbled down the ladder into the tender, 
 with more haste than ceremony. After seeing them safely 
 down the perilous path, I ascended to the upper-deck and 
 walked to the extreme stern in order to see the last, of what 
 was now, the only link that bound us to the old country. 
 Very soon the last mail-bag disappeared through the gang- 
 way, the lashings were cast off — a voice on the bridge gave 
 the order, " Full speed," the little tender rapidly receded 
 into the mist, through which I could just discern the white 
 handkerchiefs of my friends waving their last adieux, and 
 we were " off." It was now rapidly getting dark, and as 
 the mist had already turned to rain, I hastened to take shelter 
 in the saloon. Here dinner soon engaged our attention, and 
 had I known how long it would be ere another good meal 
 would fall to my lot, I think I should (if possible) have done 
 it even greater justice than I did. You would be astonished,
 
 if you could see the dinners which they produce day after 
 day on board these vessels — a bill of fare as long as my arm, 
 and everything excellent. Dinner over, I took up a book and 
 began to read. I tried hard to persuade myself, that the 
 very impleasant headache, which was forcing itseK on my 
 notice, was 7iot the usual precursor of the dreaded sea-sickness. 
 Did you ever watch any one undergoing the preparatory 
 symptoms ? It is a curious study, in more ways than one. 
 You see the victim enter the cabin with a firm step and 
 resolute eye. He seats himself on a sofa, (near the door) 
 leaning well back, and holding a book in his hand. He 
 smiles broadly at all the jokes, if there be any ; but presently 
 the book drops on the table ; and the reader's head (leaning 
 on one hand) is bent over it. By and bye the other hand is 
 required to prop up the increasing weight — till at last (pre- 
 viously observing aloud for the benefit of those within hear- 
 ing, that he is excessively fatigued) the unhappy man lies 
 down at full length on the sofa ; still however attempting to 
 look unconcerned, and pretending to read the book which he 
 yet retains. At this juncture he probably calls for a glass 
 of brandy. If you have the heart to watch him further, you 
 will perceive his eyes closing gradually ; presently the book 
 falls from his hand, and after a moment or two of ghastly 
 quiet, he suddenly .starts up, and makes a blind rush for the 
 stairway. It generally happens that you don't see that indi- 
 vidual again for some days. I did not remain in the saloon, 
 beyond the first stage of the process, but retired in good sea- 
 son, with a serene countenance and a tranquil mind, for I 
 thought of my chloroform, and was comforted. Deluded 
 mortal ! I found too late, alas, that there is no cure for sea- 
 sickness ; and I warn you to give no credit to any one, who 
 tells you that there is. I took the prescribed dose, got into 
 bed, and never was so ill in my life. I draw a veil over this 
 part of my adventures, for it would be only harrowing up
 
 your feelings needlessly, to tell you of my sufferings. The 
 weather meantime changed from bad to worse, and the motion 
 of the vessel increased. So bad was it, that 1 made no effort 
 to leave my bed until we had been out five days. We left 
 on Saturday, and it was not till Thursday that I ventured 
 to rise. It was then blowing a gale of wind, but I was 
 determined to see at least one Atlantic storm, and accord- 
 ingly got up, and dressed, though not without immense diffi- 
 culty. After staggering along the passage and up the stairs, 
 I sat down in the saloon, to rest ; and gain breath and 
 courage to complete my enterprise. The aspect of the main- 
 deck, as seen from the saloon windows, was not encouraging. 
 Spray was flying in showers, rendering the deck wet and 
 slippery, and every now and then, as the ship rolled more 
 heavily than usual, a huge leaden-coloured expanse, streak- 
 ed and spotted with white patches of foam, became visible 
 above the bulwarks. I was resolved, however, to see the 
 scene on deck — and opening the door I crawled out, clinging 
 to anything I could find, and getting wet through in my 
 passage to the stairway. I succeeded so far as to get my 
 head above the level of the spar-deck — and if you will refer 
 to my sketch, you will have some idea of what I saw. Des- 
 cribe it, I cannot — I feel ill when I think of it. That exploit 
 made me so sick, that I had to return to the solitude of my 
 state cabin, nor was I able to leave it till the following Mon- 
 day. On that day however the weather changed, and we 
 were favoured with a sight of the sun, although it still con- 
 tinued rough, and the cold was intense. On going on deck, 
 things looked much more lively than hitherto ; almost all 
 our passengers being assembled, some of them walking up 
 and down, others gathered round the funnels, the neighbour- 
 hood of which was after all by far the most comfortable 
 place. The decks looked beautifully clean, and nothing 
 remained to tell of the gale, save the salt, which entirely
 
 covered both the funnels with a thick white coating. The 
 day passed very pleasantly, and we had singing in the even- 
 ing, in which some of the ladies joined. The next day was 
 but a repetition of Monday ; and we are now beginning to 
 speculate as to the time of our arrival at Halifax. I shall 
 here close this long epistle, and write again when we are 
 fairly settled in our new abode. I had better leave this open, 
 and if I have the time before the mail goes out, I shall add 
 a line merely to tell you of our arrival.
 
 LETTEE II.* 
 
 Halifax. 
 
 Here we are at last, safe and sound. We did not, 
 as is usual, sight Cape Race at all, so that the hills at 
 the entrance of Halifax harbour were the first land we 
 saw. But as I have brought our voyage down to Wed- 
 nesday only, I have been rather too precipitate in bring- 
 ing our good ship so soon to the end of her voyage, for 
 when we retired to rest on Thursday night, there was no 
 sign of land. At eight o'clock on Friday morning, our 
 thirteenth day out, the steward came into our cabin with 
 the welcome intelligence that we had entered Halifax Har- 
 bour. We rose and dressed with all speed — and as I was 
 passing up the staircase — I felt the motion of the vessel 
 cease : our voyage was at an end. I had been prepared for a 
 wintery scene, but certainly my first view of Halifax gave 
 me an idea of dreary desolation, infinitely greater than any 
 thing I had previously imagined. I shall try to describe it, 
 
 * All personal details of my residence in Halifax are purposely omitted ; 
 firstly, because to the general reader, Lhey would be possessed of no interest ; 
 ajid secondly, because I feel that to make them public, would be very like 
 a breach of that hospitality, which was so liberally extended to mo there, 
 and the remembrance of which will write " Halifax" in golden letters, in 
 my memory for ever.
 
 10 
 
 but I almost despair of 'conveying to you the impression it 
 made on me. You must fancy yourself standing on a deck 
 at least six inches deep in snow, and looking over the stern 
 railings which were encased in a thick covering of ice. The 
 harbour which is here about a mile broad, and was now 
 frozen over, formed the centre of the picture ; its smooth 
 white surface being intersected by what looked like a narrow 
 river full of floating ice, but was in fact the channel which 
 we had broken in our passage up. It was far too thick, 
 from mist and falling snow, to see the entrance of the har- 
 bour, distant about five miles, and the view was consequent- 
 ly limited to a circle of less than a mile. Close alongside on 
 the right hand was the wharf at which we were preparing to 
 make fast. On it were some thirty or forty people, all look- 
 ing half awake and torpid, as well as about half a dozen 
 sleighs, the jingling of whose bells, together with the blow- 
 ing off of our steam, and the orders given by the officers, &c., 
 were the only sounds audible. Indeed it seemed as though 
 the whole place were in a state of hybernation. Along the 
 margin of the harbour lay a long line of wharfs stretching 
 as far as the eye could reach^ and alongside of them num- 
 bers of small vessels all fast asleep in the ice. Behind these 
 rose up the snow-covered roofs of the houses— with an occa- 
 sional spire (looking black and grimy by contrast with the 
 dazzling white of everything around) to break the monotonous 
 outline, while the whole was topped, by the citadel, the very 
 flag on whose staff" seemed to have joined in the general slum- 
 ber. On the left hand side of the harbour, the town of Dart- 
 mouth might have been discovered by any one who knew 
 where to look for it, though the only indication of its where- 
 abouts was a dirty-looking patch on the white hills which 
 bounded the ice in that direction. Having comforted myself 
 by a careful study of this very cheering landscape, I pro- 
 ceeded to get ray effects on shore, and I and my friend soon
 
 11 
 
 found ourselves, standing sentry over our possessions in a shed 
 on the wharf, there to await the usual and customary nuisance. 
 We were the more annoyed when we found that the exami- 
 nation was a mere form, not one of our boxes being opened — 
 not that I should have been better pleased, had everything 
 been turned out, but when one is kept waiting, it is as well 
 that it should be for something. My feet (having already 
 passed through a dozen progressive stages of torture) by this 
 time had ceased to remind me of their existence ; indeed it 
 required ocular demonstration to assure me that I still 
 retained even boots — and accordingly, I determined to walk 
 to the hotel, thereby hoping to infuse a little heat into my 
 system. With this view, I engaged the services of the most 
 respectable looking sleigh-driver I could see, and desired 
 him to put our effects on his sleigh, and then drive slowly 
 up to the " Waverly Hotel," — going at a walking pace, so as 
 to enable us to follow him. The resujt of this elaborate 
 direction on my part, was, that having carefully attended to 
 the first half of my injunction, the rascal rendered void the 
 second, by starting off at full trot, disappearing round a cor- 
 ner, and leaving me to speculate on the chances which might 
 exist, as to my ever seeing my ^' impedimenta' ' again. By 
 dint of enquiry however, we soon found our way along .the 
 snow-covered streets, to the Waverley — and on arriving 
 there, were greatly relieved by seeing our friend and his 
 sleigh standing at the door. I was so thankful to find 
 myself again in company with my effects, that I forbore to 
 deliver myself of the very strong language which was on my 
 tongue, and after some little trouble, we secured a comfort- 
 able room with (what appeared to be rather uncommon in 
 the house) an open fire-place. 
 
 As you say that you wish to know exactly what sort of 
 place Halifax is, I shall in this letter give you a description 
 of the town itself, which will be helped out I trust by my
 
 12 
 
 drawings. The harbour of Halifax is nearly two miles wide 
 at the entrance, and after extending inland for about four 
 miles, divides ; one arm running beyond the point of division 
 about a mile and a half further inland. The other, which 
 is the principal portion of the harbour, after containing 
 about an equal distance contracts to a very narrow channel, 
 and then widens into a lake three miles long, known as tKe 
 basin. The town of Halifax stands near the head of the 
 tongue of land which divides the two arms of the harbour, 
 being built along the edge of the principal one, just outside 
 the channel leading to the basin. The distance across to the 
 smaller or north-west arm is about a mile and a half at this 
 point, and the town 7nay perhaps some day extend quite 
 across — at present however, it confines itself to one water 
 front, and the wharves, &c. stretch for nearly two miles along 
 the base of the hill, on which the town stands. In the har- 
 bour are two islands — the larger close to its entrance known 
 as Macnab's Island, being nearly two miles long and the 
 smaller (which is very much smaller) lying opposite the town. 
 This latter is fortified and is called George's Island. On the 
 eastern side of the harbour (Halifax standing on the western 
 side) is the small town of Dartmouth. Having thus given 
 you a general idea of the position of the city, I shall pro- 
 ceed to a more minute description. The citadel, occupying 
 the summit of the hill, along the side of which the town is 
 built, claims attention first. As you know, I have no ac- 
 quaintance with military terms, but I shall do my best to 
 describe what I saw, and you must not be too hard upon me. 
 You enter through a stone archway, and after passing over 
 the drawbridge, find yourself in a large court-yard. In the 
 centre of this is a building, used as barracks, and containing 
 in the upper part (which is a bomb proof), a large store of all 
 kinds of murderous apparatus, such as shot, shell, gun- 
 powder, &c. All round the yard are the quarters for the
 
 13 
 
 officers and men. These latter are under the inner line of 
 fortifications, between which and the outer is a ditch. On 
 the angle facing the sea, is a small watch-house, with a pow- 
 erful telescope, and close to it the flagstaff, from which the 
 arrival of the steamers, &o. is telegraphed. Passing under- 
 neath the inner line of bastions (or whatever the name of 
 them may be) you find yourself in a broad ditch, bounded 
 on each side by strong walls of masonry. Crossing this, and 
 entering a small door in the opposite wall, you discover a 
 long narrow passage, having loop-holes at intervals, com- 
 manding the ditch. The gallery extends entirely round the 
 citadel, and branching off from it at certain intervals, are 
 mines extending underneath the glacis. Altogether, it is an 
 interesting place to visit, especially when the tour of inspec- 
 tion is concluded by champagne in the officers' quarters. 
 Near the citadel, and on the slope of the hill, stands the 
 hospital— a long, ugly factory-like building and the Garri- 
 son Chapel, this latter being the regular old Pagan-temple 
 style. There is a very large and somewhat handsome build- 
 ing in course of erection, north of the town, which will be 
 used, I believe, for a barrack. So much for the military 
 establishment. The naval Dock-yard is at the extreme north 
 end of the city, nearest the basin, and in the summer time 
 there are generally three or four men-of-war stationed here, 
 one of them always being a line-of-battle ship. The city itself 
 extends along the shore for a distance of more than two 
 miles, and has an average breadth of three quarters of a 
 mile. It stands almost entirely on the slope of a hUl — some 
 of the streets leading down directly from the citadel to the 
 water's edge being very steep, and affording in the winter time 
 a grand opportunity for the small boys to exercise their 
 favourite positions of " coasting." This process is achieved 
 by taking a small piece of wood about 3 feet by 2, placed on 
 runners ; and walking with it to the top of the street, then
 
 u 
 
 throwing it down and falling upon it. Of course, both boy 
 and sled shoot down, at about fifteen miles an hour, regard- 
 less of sleighs that may be passing in the cross streets. This 
 is a very favourite amusement, and is not by any means con- 
 fined to boys. But to describe the city properly, we must 
 begin at the north end, and take the route which would be 
 pursued by any one arriving from the interior of the country. 
 First we come to the railway station. This is the terminus 
 of the only line as yet made in Nova Scotia, it extends to 
 Truro, a distance of sixty-four miles, with a branch to " Wind- 
 sor" on the Bay of Fundy, distant forty-five miles from 
 Halifax. 
 
 Passing the station, the next prominent object is the Dock 
 Yard, already mentioned, and here the town may be said to 
 commence. It consists at this point, of two principal streets 
 running parallel with the water, the inner one being of 
 course on a much higher level than the outer. These con- 
 tinue for about a mile, and then sub-divide into four, and 
 eventually five parallel streets. In the upper street, the 
 first building of any pretension is St. Patrick's Roman 
 Church, and nearly opposite St. Greorge's Anglican Church. 
 
 I merely name these now, as I intend to devote another 
 letter to an account of the ecclesiastical buildings and doings 
 of Halifax. 
 
 Further on in the same street are a Baptist Meeting house, 
 and the Grarrison Chapel. In Water Street (the lower one) 
 there is nothing to excite attention except Cunard's wharf, 
 which lies just below St. George's Church. Passing on we 
 come to where the streets divide.* 
 
 * Thi§ part o£ the town has, since my first visit, been almost entirely des- 
 troyed by a great fire. The result will, however, be in the end beneficial 
 to the city, for instead of the wood which has hitherto been the favourite 
 building material, the new houses will be of brick or stone, some of them 
 being faced with white marble.
 
 15 
 
 This is the chief business-part of the town, and some of 
 the stores are quite handsome. The three principal streets 
 at this point, are (beginning near the harbour) HoUis Street, 
 Granville Street, and a third whose name I forget, but 
 which is the longest and best of the three. Between Hollis 
 and Grranville streets, stands the Province building. In this 
 place the provincial parliament meets, there being an upper 
 and lower house. The building itself is a very plain 
 Grecian edifice of grey stone, and is thought a great deal of 
 by the Halifax people, though it always struck me as being 
 frightfully ugly. Near this and close to the water is the 
 market, a very commodious brick building, and close to it 
 the ferry to Dartmouth. Hollis Street extends about a mile 
 further, but contains nothing of interest save the Bishop's 
 residence. I shall therefore follow the upper street which 
 my faulty memory has robbed of its name. First comes a 
 Scottish Free Church, and further on an open square bound- 
 ed on the east side by the street, and on the west by the 
 citadel hill. The Post Office occupies the north end, and 
 St. Paul's Anglican Church the south. In the centre stands 
 the Firemen's Station-house. Passing St. Paul's, we come to 
 the Waverley Hotel, and opposite to it is a building known 
 as Free Mason's Hall. Here is also the Roman Arch- 
 bishop's residence, tegether with St. Mary's Roman Cathe- 
 dral, and a House of Mercy. Higher up the hill and behind 
 these is a somewhat pretty Presbyterian place of worship, 
 which looks as though it were flinging defiance at the Ro- 
 man colony beneath it. A little further on is another Pres- 
 byterian church apparently indulging in a similar display 
 of ill-feeling towards the Bishop's house, which lies just be- 
 hind it, in Hollis Street. I must not forget to mention two 
 other buildings in process of erection. 
 
 One of them intended, I believe, for law courts, and the 
 other as a monument to some Officers who fell in the Crimea.
 
 16 
 
 They will both, I understand, be very handsome. Beyond 
 this is the Government House, a plain stone building. This 
 is the last public building in this direction, with one excep- 
 tion, which, in my reminiscences of Halifax will occupy a 
 very prominent place, viz. *St. Luke's Anglican Church. 
 This part of the town is composed entirely of private dwell- 
 ings. Most of these are of one type, being small, two-storied 
 houses built of wood, and painted white. They are very 
 warm and comfortable, indeed the people seem to think 
 them warmer than stone houses. I must not forget to mention 
 the two cemeteries which lie to the west of the town, one of 
 them having a pretty little chapel in it. To the west of the 
 town are some pretty villas, &c., some of them being plea- 
 santly situated near the north-west arm. The country is 
 very well wooded, and in summer time many beautiful walks 
 and drives may be enjoyed near the town. 
 
 Indeed, I can well believe that, (as every one tells me) 
 Halifax is in summer one of the most delightful places ima- 
 ginable. There is always abundance of gaiety, and the 
 numbers of Military and Naval Officers give a tone of great 
 liveliness to the society. Indeed the place is proverbial for 
 its hospitality, and with great justice, as I can from per- 
 sonal experience bear witness, though like all towns of its 
 size (population 40,000) it is by no means deficient in the 
 article of scandal. 
 
 • St. Luke's has since been made the Cathedral Church.
 
 LETTER III. 
 
 Halifax. 
 
 As I have not much to tell you about myself, I purpose 
 devoting this letter to an account of Ecclesiastical Halifax, 
 and I shall describe the buildings, before speaking of the 
 doings of those who worship in them. There are three 
 Anglican churches, St. Paul's, St. George's and St. Luke's, 
 besides a conventicle, which the good Bishop has hired for a 
 Missionary chapel. St. Paul's, which is the oldest and 
 ugliest, is (by courtesy) the Bishop's Cathedral. It is an 
 oblong wooden box, with a thing very like a pigeon house, 
 stuck on the top of a Brobdignagian inkstand, doing duty 
 as a bell tower. The bells, however, are by no means bad. 
 Internally, there is some attempt at decency and order. 
 There are pews of course, and- galleries all round ; but the 
 pews are not very high, nor are the galleries offensively 
 hideous. Over the altar is a window, and in front of it is the 
 pulpit. T have seen a Priest standing on the altar and pull- 
 ing down the blind of the aforesaid window. On one side 
 t ■•, of the pulpit is the Governor's pew, and on the other, tlie 
 Rector's. In the gallery at the end, stands an organ, fair to 
 look upon, but most painful to hear. The case is evidently 
 an old " Harris," so are the front pipes which (by the way)
 
 18 
 
 never speak now ; but the interior is a mass of rubbish for 
 which the parish paid a London organ builder £500 about 
 twenty years ago, and which would be dear (save as old metal) 
 at £50. St. George's church was built as a Garrison Church by 
 the late Duke of Kent, and is also a wooden building. It is 
 very peculiar in shape ; being perfectly round with a dome in 
 the centre. There are galleries of course, but as they appear 
 to belong to the structure itself, they are not at 'all so offen- 
 sive as such appendages generally are. Opposite the entrance 
 stands a very good organ, in a gallery which occupies a 
 recess, and in front of the organ come, in regular succession 
 like a flight of stairs, the pulpit, the reading desk and the 
 font. Is this emblematic of the relative importance of preach- 
 ing, prayer and lastly, sacraments ? One would think so, for 
 the position of the altar carries out the idea to perfection : 
 it is behind the pulpit and absolutely invisible from every 
 part of the church. The organ is a fine one by Walker — it 
 has 2 rows of keys and 25 stops, with 16 foot open pedal 
 pipes. The pipes are diapered in blue and gold and the case 
 altogether is very handsome. The Bishop's chapel is a speci- 
 men of the well-known style of conventicle, and is adorned 
 with the word Salem printed in huge gilt letters over the 
 door. How some of its original proprietors would stand 
 aghast, could they hear the sound catholic sermons preached 
 there now, by the worthy Bishop ! or see the beautiful cross 
 of evergreens which decorated the wall above the altar at 
 Christmas and Easter. I should be doing these excellent 
 people great injustice were I to omit all mention of what was 
 the glory of the place in their days. I have seen many 
 pulpits, but I never saw one that could be mentioned in the 
 same day with the one in Salem, for vastness. It is a costly 
 thing too, being entirely of polished rosewood. In front of 
 this erection stands the temporary altar, with a prayer-desk 
 on one side, and a harmonium on the other. I now come to
 
 19 
 
 spe^ of S. Luke's,* and I do so with feelings of real interest 
 — I might almost say affection — not that the building itself is 
 such as to inspire any such feelings, nor even the services 
 held in it — but, to the family of its most excellent rector, I 
 owe a debt of gratitude, which never can be paid, for their 
 continued kindness to me during the whole time of my resi- 
 dence here. St. Luke's church is, like the others, a wooden 
 structure, but in designing it, a much greater regard has been 
 paid to the proper ordering of a church than in the cases of St. 
 Paul's and St. George's. The style is an imitation of mediaeval, 
 and considering all the circumstances, it might have been far 
 worse. At the — I was going to say west-end, but the church 
 stands north and south, so I must say at the entrance end, is 
 a tower and spire — the latter being crowned by a very large 
 gilt cross, which is no weather-cock and evidently points but 
 one way. So persistently does it point, that several con- 
 spiracies dire have been formed against it by some of the cross- 
 hating and zealous Protestants of Halifax — but somehow 
 there it is still, pointing out the way to Catholic truth most 
 obstinately. On entering the church you are refreshed 
 by a glimpse of a very fair sized altar. Not a very distinct 
 or decided view, but still a glimpse. There are galleries, of 
 course, but they are not by any means obtrusive, appearing to 
 be, as in truth they are, a part of the structure. The pulpit 
 stands a little on one side, as does the prayer-desk, thus al- 
 lowing the congregation to see the altar, if they care to look 
 at it. In the gallery over the door is a very fine toned 
 organ by Walker. It has 2 rows of keys and 16 stops, and 
 though not so large or powerful as the one in St. George's, is 
 sweeter in tone. St. Luke's exhausts the list of Anglican 
 
 * Since my visit to Halifax, St. Luke's has been made the Cathedral of the 
 Diocese. The structure has been enlarged by the addition of a large 
 chancel ; and the Rev. W. Bullock, the rector of my days, is now the Very 
 llev. the Dean of Halifax. A regular chapter has moreover been organized, 
 and although in appearance St. Luke's may fall short of our Indian Cathe- 
 drals, it is in all essential points far more of a Cathedral than they are.
 
 20 
 
 cliurches, and I have described it last, because it is the Ijest. 
 Now to describe the Roman churches. There are two of these, 
 St. Patrick^'s and St. Mary's, the latter being (by courtesy) 
 the cathedral. St. Patrick's is a large cruciform church, 
 built of wood, and in no style in particular ; it has a spire 
 with a gilt cross, which looks like the twin brother of that on 
 S. Luke's. Never having been insidOj I cannot very well 
 describe the interior, and shall therefore pass to S. Mary's. 
 Externally this is the most hideous church in Halifax, 
 but inside it is about the best. It is built of stone, and has 
 stone columns supporting a plaster vaulting. There are galle- 
 ries, and the whole design is very bad ; but still there is an 
 air of solidity about it and a church-like appearance, which is 
 sadly wanting in the other churches. The altar is unfortu- 
 nately very gaudy and tinselly as is too usual in Roman 
 churches. There is a most terrible instrument of torture 
 in the gallery over the door which does duty as an organ- 
 There are several Presbyterian places of worship, the newest 
 of which (near the Bishop's house) is by far the best looking 
 building of the kind in Halifax. It is built of brick and 
 plastered, but the muUions, &c. of the windows are of stone and 
 the general effect is by no means uupleasing. The door is de- 
 cidedly good, and the spire is admired by a good many people, 
 though I confess it did not please me. And now 1 must say 
 a few words about the church in Halifax, as a body. It has 
 to contend with much opposition from Presbyterians, &c. and 
 therefore great allowance must be made, but when the pre- 
 sent Bishop first came, it must have been in a terrible condi- 
 tion. He has done a great deal, and is ably assisted in his 
 good work by some of his clergy, of whom I must mention 
 the Rev. W — . B — . of St. Luke's and his son the Rev. H — . 
 B — , But there is a most determined spirit of opposition to 
 fight against, and it is displayed chiefly by the churchwardens 
 &c. I do believe that there is not, in the world, any society 
 of men professing to live under a certain system, and syste- 
 matically and deliberately acting in opposition to all the
 
 21 
 
 requirements of that system, in an equal degree with the 
 great mass of those who profess allegiance to the Anglican 
 church. But enough of this ; it is a dangerous subject to ^ 
 meddle with, and had better be left to more experienced heads 
 than mine. The services in these churches are all pretty 
 much alike, at least those held in St. Paul's and St. George's 
 strongly resemble each other. It is the regular last century 
 style with the " Te Deum" read. At St. Luke's the " Te Deum" 
 is sung, and on Easter Sunday I (having volunteered as or- 
 ganist) contrived to get up the Hallelujah chorus, and it was 
 very well sung. For the present, you will probably feel that 
 I have cantered far enough on my eccelesiastical hobby, so 
 I shall dismount, though I don't promise not to give you 
 another ride on the same steed at a future period. The win- 
 ter is now nearly gone, and early in May, E — . and I think of 
 starting for the United States. Thouofh I don't much like 
 cold weather, I look back on my winter here with feelings 
 akin to regret. Indeed the winter of Halifax is one of its 
 most peculiar features, and I saw it in full perfection. It is 
 (when you have become used to it) very pleasant. I know 
 nothing more enjoyable than a good sleigh ride. It is true 
 the cold is intense, but then you are well wrapped up in furs 
 and warm clothes, so that you do not feel it. If H. is inclined 
 to doubt this, you may tell her that I suffered much less 
 from cold in Halifax, than I have frequently done at home. 
 The snow sometimes faUs to the depth of three or four feet 
 in a single night. The harbour frequently freezes, though 
 not often entirely across ; it did so however this winter, and 
 the steamers had some difficulty in forcing their way up. On 
 one occasion, I saw the " America" come up, breaking the ice 
 as she came, whilst close to her, numbers of skaters were to 
 be seen ; it was a fine clear moonlight night, and the scene 
 was really beautiful. My next letter will be written from 
 Boston, U. S., as my present intention is to make that town 
 my first resting place in the states.
 
 LETTER ly. 
 
 Boston, U. S. 
 We left Halifax in the *' Canada," on Wednesday last at 
 three o'clock. I mention the hour, because it is a peculiarity 
 attendant on leaving Halifax for the United States, that you 
 never know, at what hour you may have to start. As you are 
 aware, the Liverpool steamers touch at Halifax, to take up 
 passengers for the States, and of course you cannot calculate 
 the time of their arrival with any certainty, and we mighty for 
 aught we knew to the contrary, have had to take our depar- 
 ture in the middle of the night. Nothing of consequence oc- 
 curred on the passage, there being of course the usual surfeit 
 of lobsters, which a visit to Halifax always produces at the 
 lunch table. Apropos of lobsters at Halifax, I heard a story, 
 which well illustrates their exceeding abundance, and conse- 
 quent cheapness. A regiment has just arrived in the town, 
 and one of the officers, while passing through the market, on 
 his way to the barracks, noticed the numbers of fine lobsters 
 exposed for sale. On reaching his quarters, he despatched his 
 servant with instructions to buy two pounds worth of lob- 
 sters, expecting to receive ten or a dozen. In about ten 
 minutes the servant returned, followed by a man, wheeling a 
 large barrowful of the creatures, and on his master express-
 
 23 
 
 ing his amazement at such an " embarras de richesses," he 
 burst out with, " Oh, Sir, that's not half. There's five more 
 wheelbarrows coming." I think I hear H, exclaim, in imi- 
 tation of Carlyle, " What a reservoir of lobsters to ride into!" 
 But to return to our voyage. Coming on deck about 8 o'clock 
 on Friday morning, I found the ship entering Boston harbour. 
 The navigation appeared to be very intricate, we kept turn- 
 ing and twisting in amongst a number of smooth, round top- 
 ped, green covered islands, until at length we saw the city 
 of Boston looming up before us. It was a lovely morning, 
 and my first impressions of Yankee-land were decidedly pleas- 
 ing. Boston has been called the Venice of America by rea- 
 son of its very amphibious position, the city proper being 
 separated from its several suburbs, and the suburbs from one 
 another by branches of the harbour, which seems to possess as 
 many arms as a cutle fish. The general appearance of the 
 city is very prepossessing, as it is built round the base and 
 up the sides of a hill, which is crowned by the cupola of the 
 State-house. It chief suburbs are Charlestown, South Bos- 
 ton, and East Boston. The former of these contains the navy 
 yard, and at the latter is located Cunard's wharf, at which 
 the "Canada" had now arrived. We found the Custom 
 House here, to be a very different thing from that at Halifax, 
 although I must say the officials were not nearly so rude as 
 our own generally are. The only way to ensure civility in 
 the United States is to treat every one as your equal, and 
 present your boxes to the inspection of the Custom House 
 myrmidons with as much courtesy as though you were offer- 
 ing your cigar-case to your most respected acquaintance. By 
 pursuing this line of conduct, I got through the ordeal without 
 much trouble, and directing our boxes to be placed on a coach 
 bearing the name of the " Eevere House," we ensconced our- 
 selves in the interior of the same vehicle. This coach was 
 the first " institution" peculiar to the country, which I had
 
 24 
 
 • 
 
 yet seen. It was about the size and shape of the old fashion- 
 ed " family coaches" which flourished twenty years ago, (and 
 which held four or even five people comfortably), thereby 
 forming a marked contrast to the vehicle under discussion : for 
 in this case no fewer than nine persons were jammed into the 
 interior, and arranged thus. Three were on each seat, and 
 across the middle came another (moveable) seat, holding 
 three more, with a strap to prevent the occupants from fall- 
 ing back into the laps of those behind them. Being at 
 length packed in, off we started along a most shocking road, 
 which gave to the vehicle a motion equal to that of a ship in a 
 storm : indeed I have often felt almost sea sick, in one of these 
 machines. After crossing a railway track we turned sharp to 
 the left and driving under a covered way, came to a stand- 
 still. On inquiry, I found that we were on board the ferry 
 boat, which was to take us across to Boston, Canard's 
 wharf being, as I before mentioned, in East Boston. If I 
 abused the Hotel carriages, I must here change the tune and 
 praise, very decidedly, the admirable ferry boats. They are 
 lOO feet long and 40 feet broad on the deck, though much 
 narrower in the water ; the deck being carried out on each 
 side beyond the outer edge of the paddle wheels, and gradual- 
 ly narrowing towards each end. It is in fact an extension of 
 the sponson to the entire length of the ship, and in this man- 
 ner all the American river steamers are built. With the 
 exception of about 20 feet at each end, the deck is covered 
 over, the huge walking beam of the engine working up 
 through the centre, leaving a space on each side for vehicles, 
 while outside this on each side, (is a large cabin) fitted with 
 seats all round. On the roof are the two pilot-houses, in 
 which the steersman is placed, there being one at each end. 
 In this respect all American steamships are alike, having in 
 every case, the steering apparatus placed near the bows of 
 the vessel, and enclosed in a small raised house, with windows
 
 25 
 
 in front. The ferry boats are lit up at night by gas. The 
 dock into which they run, is contrived, so as to enable 
 vehicles, &c. to cross at all times with equal facility, the gang- 
 way accommodating itself to the rise and fall of the tide. 
 Altogether these ferries and their boats (the system being the 
 same all through the country) are perfect, and form excellent 
 models for imitation. On landing from the boat we drove 
 through a number of somewhat narrow and tortuous streets, 
 looking much more like those of an English town, than I had 
 expected to find here ; indeed, we passed one or two houses 
 that looked positively old : and at length stopped in a small 
 open square in front of a huge grey stone building, having 
 " Revere House" printed in large gilt letters over the portico. 
 After paying our fare, (a most exorbitant one, viz. 75 cents., 
 equivalent to 3 shillings each) we followed our luggage up 
 the steps into a handsome hall, paved with marble, and pro- 
 ceeded to insert our names in the book at the clerk's desk. 
 I then received a key with a number attached to it, and 
 marched off, after the porter, who led the way with the lug- 
 gage, up five flights of stairs, and along an apparently endless 
 corridor to number two hundred and something. Having 
 been previously told that the furniture of the bed-rooms iq 
 American hotels was frequently limited to a bed and spittoon, 
 I derived considerable satisfaction from a survey of my 
 room, which was very comfortably, I may say handsomely, 
 furnished. Observing a printed notice nailed to the door, I 
 read it, and learnt, that breakfast was served from eight to 
 eleven ; dinner from two to five ; tea from six to seven, and 
 supper from nine to twelve. After correcting the disorder of 
 my toilet caused by the journey, I descended to the dining 
 room, and ate my first meal in the Great Eepublic.
 
 LETTEK V. 
 
 As you say, that you always like to know something of 
 the external appearance of any place at which I am residing, 
 I shall give you in this letter, as concise an account of the 
 city as I can. To begin with our hotel. The Revere House is 
 generally considered the best hotel in Boston ; indeed I have 
 heard some people say that it is not surpassed by any hotel 
 in the States. The main entrance, is not on the ground 
 floor, there being abroad flight of steps leading up to the door, 
 but there is a smaller entrance below. Here is situated that 
 most important part of an American hotel, the barber's shop. 
 I am sure every American passes at least an eighth part of 
 his waking hours, under the hands of the barber. Looking in, 
 at any hour of the day, you may see the forms of sundry free 
 and enlightened citizens, stretched out in a horizontal posi- 
 tion, and undergoing all the multifarious tweakings, comb- 
 ings, and shampooings, in which consists their favourite en- 
 joyment. The actual shaving forms, comparatively speak- 
 ing, a very small part of the business, though even that, (I 
 cannot exactly understand, or explain why) takes long 
 enough. I never could get through the process in less 
 than half an hour, although always dispensing with all 
 extras. I have gone into the shop at 10 o'clock, and recog-
 
 27 
 
 nized a friend undergoing the operation, and on returning 
 at a quarter past eleven, have found him in precisely the 
 same position. Next to the Barber's domain is the bar-room ; 
 where can be had all manner of tempting drinks, such as no 
 European has ever dreamed of. There are always plenty of 
 customers here enjoying their sherry-cobblers, gin-slings, 
 brandy cock-tails, mint julep, egg-nog, and a score of other 
 beverages, whose taste is in general far sweeter to the palate, 
 than are their names euphonious. On meeting a friend for 
 the first time, or rather I should say on being introduced 
 to a stranger, the first thing proposed is always, " Let's 
 have a drink" — and off you march to the bar-room of the 
 nearest hotel. And yet you do not often see people intoxi- 
 cated — the fact being that while we condense o ur tippling 
 into a jollification in the evening, an American spreads it over 
 a larger surface, and does a little tippling all day, instead of 
 a great deal at night. On the same floor with the bar-room, 
 &c. are the baths, kitchen, and billiard room. Ascending now 
 to the grand entrance, we have on the right hand side the 
 reading room ; a small square apartment with a desk run- 
 ning all round, on which are placed newspapers from all 
 parts of the Union, and having in one corner an electric tele- 
 graph apparatus, by which messages can be sent direct to any 
 part of the country. Next to this on the same side is the 
 staircase, and clerk's office, and opposite to it the gentle- 
 men's parlour, a very handsomely furnished room, about 40 
 feet long. The first time I went into this apartment, I 
 sat down at the table and took up a book. It was a rail- 
 way and steamboat guide, and contained, as an additional 
 inducement to the public to travel, a full account, copiously 
 illustrated, of all the fatal steam-boat explosions that had 
 lately happened on the Mississippi. A very cheerful and 
 instructive style of literature certainly. ^Next to this is 
 the principal dining or rather eating room, a splendid hall
 
 28 
 
 at least 70 feet by 80 and 20 feet high. It is paved with 
 black and white marble, and looks delightfully cool in sum- 
 mer. The hotel is built with a court-yard in the centre, and 
 these apartments occupy one side, while on the other are 
 drawing rooms and a smaller eating room for the exclusive use 
 of ladies. The house contains I forget how many bed-rooms, 
 but it is over 200, besides several very handsome suites 
 of apartments. Besides the Revere House there are several 
 other fine hotels in Boston, amongst which I may mention 
 the Tremont House, which is owned by the same proprietor 
 as the Revere. Indeed, Mr. Paran Stevens, the aforesaid 
 proprietor, owns, I was told, several other magnificent hotels, 
 viz., the fifth Avenue Hotel in New York and a very large one 
 in Philadelphia. These huge places have both their advantages 
 and disadvantages, and for any one travelling through the 
 country as a stranger and alone, I think I prefer the system 
 to ours. You always know too, exactly what you have to pay, 
 2| dollars a day (about 10 shillings) including every thing 
 except wines, &c. and washing ; this latter being performed 
 in the most expeditious way. 
 
 One of the very first things which strikes a stranger in the 
 streets of Boston, or indeed almost any American city, is the 
 street railway. The city of Boston itself being built with 
 narrow crooked streets, is not very favourable to such a kind 
 of locomotion, but they extend to all the suburbs, and are a 
 very great convenience. The cars are like very large omin- 
 buses, as far as the interior goes, but run on ordinary rail- 
 road carriage wheels. There is a door at each end opening 
 on to a platform to which access is easily gained by two steps 
 on each side, the whole car being low. The horses can be 
 attached to either end, so that when the car has arrived at the 
 end of its journey, the driver shifts his horses to the other 
 extremity of th^ car, and himself to the other platform. 
 The roof being continued out over the platform, serves as a
 
 29 
 
 partial protection from the wet or the sun. These cars are 
 entirely different from the large cars used on the locomotive 
 roads, and of these I shall speak afterwards. The very first 
 day of my sojourn in Boston, I had to make use of these cars 
 to go out to one of the suburban villages called Cambridge ; 
 like another Cambridge, the seat of a University. The town 
 itself is exceedingly pretty, the houses being for the most 
 part villas, belonging to the wealthy mercantile men of 
 Boston. The University, or Harvard College, as it is called, 
 is a group of almost old looking red brick buildings, with a 
 very handsome chapel and museum of stone. Indeed the 
 buildings look altogether very much as if two or three of 
 the smaller Cambridge or Oxford " Halls'^ had been stuck 
 down any -how in the gardens of S. John's College of the first- 
 named University — minus the classic Cam. The whole esta- 
 blishment belongs to the Unitarians, who are by far the most 
 nimierous sects of religionists in the state of Massachusets. 
 The students of course wear no distinctive dress — nobody, who 
 can possibly avoid it, does in America. Even the railway con- 
 ductors will only wear a band round their hats with the word 
 " Conductor" printed in very small letters, and even this dis- 
 tinction generally gets turned round to the backs of their hats, 
 so that no one can see it. If you are in a dilemma as to 
 whom you should accost as the conductor, you will generally 
 hit on the right person, if you pick out the most expensively 
 got-up man in the car. The Chapel of Harvard College is, as 
 I before said, a handsome building, and I may add very eccle- 
 siastical in its appearance. It is in the Romanesque style, 
 and consists of a nave without aisles, and a circular apse. 
 There is a handsome campanle at one corner, and a very 
 bold massive porch. The interior is fitted up in a most 
 church-like manner, the sittings being of carved oak and very 
 low. 
 
 In a small gallery over the grand entrance stands one of the
 
 30 
 
 most splendid modern organs I ever saw or heard, and one 
 which would do credit to any English builder. It is by 
 Simmons and Wilco:^ of Boston. In the apse stands a table 
 vested in green velvet with a smperfrontal, &c., and altoge- 
 ther looking like a most correct altar : on each side are stalls. 
 Seeing a handsome prayer book on the communion table, 
 I took it up, and found a mutilated edition of the Anglican 
 •Book of Common Prayer.* The Museum, I unfortunately 
 did not succeed in seeing, so I shall pass on to describe, as 
 well as I can, the Observatory. I received through my kind 
 Halifax friends an introduction to Mr. Bond, the astronomer, 
 a man whose talents have gained him a world-wide reputa- 
 tion, and he very kindly showed me all over the place. The 
 chief curiosity is the enormous telescope, the largest refracting 
 telescope I believe, in the world. As you may be as ignorant 
 as I was of the exact meaning of the term refracting telescope, 
 I may say that it is one through which you look directly at the 
 object, while in a reflector you see merely the image, a much 
 less satisfactory thing in my opinion. This huge instrument 
 is so beautifully balanced, that although it is near 20 feet 
 long,t and I forget how heavy, a touch of the finger will move 
 it. I had the pleasure of seeing Saturn, Jupiter and the 
 moon through it, as well as binary stars, &c., and had a better 
 astronomical lesson than I could have learnt from fifty books. 
 Amongst the other buildings of Cambridge I may notice 
 the Anglican Church, " Christ Church." It is a timber 
 building and was sent out, with its bells, &c. from England 
 about the year 1740 ; forming one of many similar reminis- 
 cences of the colonial days of this great nation. Near the 
 town is the beautiful cemetery of Mount Auburn. But to 
 return to Boston. The city, being built entirely without 
 
 * AU this has however since been explained by the subsequent conversioa 
 to the Church, of the minister for whom the chapel was originally built, 
 t The object glass is 14.^ inches in diameter.
 
 31 
 
 plan, it is impossible to describe the positions of the different 
 streets, &;c., and indeed I doubt if such a detail would interest 
 you. I shall therefore confine myself to an account of the 
 principal buildings, churches and places of amusement. The 
 most prominent Ijuilding in the city, is the State-house, which 
 stands on the summit of a hill at the head of a park, hand- 
 somely laid out, and well planted, called the Common. The 
 building is certainly imposing, chiefly from its position, but 
 partly also from its design, it having a handsome Corinthian 
 portico, and a dome, about 180 feet in height. Within are 
 chambers for the accommodation of the members of the Go- 
 vernment : each state having its own Governor, Senate, and 
 House of Representatives, and being capable of enacting laws, 
 &c. quite independently of theNationalCongress at Washington. 
 Not far from this is the Boston Athenaeum, a really handsome 
 and solid looking building, containing a gallery of paintings 
 and sculpture. The Common is bounded on its lower end, by 
 Tremont Street, and by pursuing this for a few yards we 
 come to the Tremont Temple, a handsome building externally, 
 and containing amongst other apartments a very fine hall, 
 which is used for concerts and meetings of different kinds. At 
 one end, concealed by an open work screen, is an immense 
 organ by Hook of Boston, containing 70 stops. Besides this 
 Hall there is in Boston another and much finer, viz. the 
 Music Hall. I do not know the exact dimensions of Exeter 
 Hall, or of this ; but I certainly think the Boston Hall is an 
 infinitely finer room than the London one. It is certainly 
 far higher in the roof, being at least 70 feet high. There is 
 at present a moderate sized organ, but a new one is being 
 built by Walker of Ludwigsburg, near Frankfort in Germany ; 
 which is to cost 35,000 dollars (7,000 pounds), and which is 
 confidently expected to be one of the finest in the world. In 
 this Hall oratorios are frequently performed by a choral 
 society, and I believe they are in general very well done,
 
 32 
 
 though I never chanced to hear one. To return to Tremont 
 Street ; a little beyond the Tremont Temple stands a building 
 formerly called the King's Chapel, known however now, as 
 the Stone Chapel. Next to this is the Boston Museum, con- 
 sisting of a large hall, something like that of the Polytechnic 
 in London, filled with stuffed animals and curiosities, and a 
 theatre. This latter is the real source of attraction, no one ever 
 seeming to bestow a look on the articles in the museuA, the 
 whole establishment furnishing a most instructive example 
 of Puritan hypochrisy ; and for this reason — Theatricals, being 
 considered by the Bostonians of thirty years ago, infamous 
 and disgraceful, of course no one had the hardihood to open 
 a regular theatre and call it a theatre ; so they had a museum, 
 at which dramatic performances were allowed to form part 
 of the exhibition, and thus paved the way gradually for the 
 introduction of the drama, as an institution. In the theatre 
 under consideration, I have seen some very good acting, 
 infinitely better than could be had with us for the same price. 
 The auditory of the American theatres is arranged very 
 differently from ours, the pit (or parquette as they call it), 
 and the first circle, being comfortably cushioned, and priced 
 alike, viz. 50 cents, (about 2 shillings), with a small number 
 of orchestra stalls at a dollar. 
 
 The " Howard Athenaeum," for though m//e(^ an Athenaeum, 
 it is nevertheless a theatre, is situated close to the Revere 
 House, and generally can boast of a very good company. 
 Besides these two, there is one other theatre in the city, the 
 Boston Theatre in Washington Street. This is one of the 
 most splendid buildings of the kind I ever saw, being very 
 nearly equal in point of size to the New Theatre at Covent 
 Garden in London, and quite equal to it in point of elegance : 
 the entrance staircase is beyond comparison finer than any in 
 London. Here operas are performed every now and then, 
 and generally with first rate artists. I heard Don Giovanni,
 
 33 
 
 (with Formes as Leporello) splendidly performed in this 
 theatre as well as Norma, and three or four of the most cele- 
 brated operas. Washington Street, in which the Boston 
 Theatre stands, is the principal thoroughfare of the city, and 
 contains some handsome shops, &c., but is very narrow and 
 crooked. Amongst the prominent buildings of Boston, I 
 must not forget to mention the Custom House, which stands 
 near the wharfs, and like most of the buildings in that part 
 of the city is built of solid granite. The interior is very 
 handsome, there being a great appearance of strength and 
 solidity, combined with considerable elegance of design. The 
 roof is entirely of granite, and all the floors as well, 1 believe, 
 thus rendering the structure completely fire-proof. You 
 will see from this letter, how diligent I have been in sight- 
 seeing, and I even managed to devote a day to the dock- 
 yard this week, located at Charlestowu. There seemed to 
 be very little going on, and the whole had a very deserted 
 aspect. There was an old three-decker, the " North Caro- 
 lina," apparently rotting afloat, and a still older one, the 
 " Vermont" rotting ashore. This latter indeed was not 
 finished, but stood in dreary solitude on the stocks, remind- 
 ing: me more of the National Monument on the Calton Hill 
 in Edinburgh, than of anything else. I have read, however, 
 that the poor old thing is to be finished and launched after 
 waiting some forty years for the ceremony. I believe they are 
 going to make a steamer of her, although I can scarcely un- 
 derstand how a go-a-head people like the Yankees can ex- 
 pect to make such a terrible old tub do anything but shake 
 herself to pieces with the machinery. It seems, however, 
 that they are no better off in America with regard to their 
 navy matters than wo are — it is the same story with both : 
 while our Mercantile Companies turn out such ships as the 
 " Great Eastern," the " Himalaya" or the " Persia," the 
 navy has not a ship to compare to either of the three ; and
 
 34 
 
 while New York mercliauts have produced a superb vessel like 
 the "Adriatic," the United States navy are all staring at 
 each other, and wondering how it is that the " Niagara" 
 leaks horribly every now and then, and will only go 8 
 knots an hour. Not far from the navy yard is Bunker's Hill, 
 a spot which must suggest many grave reflections to every 
 Briton who visits it. A monument of granite, in the shape 
 of an obelisk, having a stairway inside, lighted by loop-holes, 
 through which you may obtain a fine view of the city and 
 harbour, commemorates the victory gained by the Americans 
 at this place over the British forces ; daring the struggle for 
 independence.
 
 LETTER YL 
 
 Boston. 
 
 This is the last letter you will receive from Boston, as I 
 intend starting for New York, in a couple of days ; and I 
 shall therefore send you to-day, a sort of supplement, to the 
 description of this place, which I gave you in my last. You 
 are I think aware, that the prevaihng form of religion in 
 Boston is Unitarianism or Universalism. There are hut few 
 churches of either the Anglican or Roman communions, and 
 in those of the former persuasion which exist, there is an 
 almost total ahsence of all ritual. One exception, however, 
 must be made, and it deserves special notice, — I refer to 
 " The Church of the Advent." Here there is daily prayer, 
 morning and evening, and a celebration of thelloly Eucharist 
 on Sundays and Festivals ; the services being for the most 
 part choral. The congregation occupy a wretched building at 
 present, but funds are being collected for the erection of a new 
 church. Even in the temporary church, there is, however, 
 a permanent altar, of white marble, very unanglican, though 
 costly and handsome, and having behind it a large gilt cross. 
 There is one great drawback to one's satisfaction, in the 
 otherwise well-conducted services — the boys are not sur- 
 pliced, and the result is, of course, very unchurch-like and 
 irreverent.
 
 36 
 
 Considering however the general state of things in the Dio- 
 cese of Massachussets, one must not be too critical, but give 
 the " Church of the Advent*' its due meed of praise as being 
 the only attempt (in Boston at least) at a ritual service. The 
 Bishop's Church is " Trinity." It is situated in Summer 
 Street, near Washington Street^ and is built in a very extra- 
 ordinary style of architecture, peculiar to the country. I 
 cannot possibly describe it, but my sketch may give you 
 some idea of its general features. It is at all events far pre- 
 ferable to the ginger-bread gothic which prevailed in this 
 country some thirty or forty years ago. The interior is very 
 dark, there being no East window, and the side windows 
 being quite obscured by hideous galleries. The organ is a 
 large one by Q-ray and Davison of London, and exhibits all 
 their usual harshness in the chorus without their peculiar 
 sweetness in the solo and reed stops. The service is of 
 course of the last century type, the Bishop appearing as 
 often in his black gown as in anything else. Next in impor- 
 tance to this church is S. Paul's in Tremont Street, a Grecian 
 building without any attempt at a church-like appearance. 
 The interior however is much better than " Trinity," for 
 there are no side galleries, and there is an apse with a fine 
 large altar. The organ is in a gallery over the door, and is a 
 very fair instrument by Hook of Boston. It is of large size, 
 and is enclosed in a most magnificent case, with 16 feet 
 speaking front. The choir is (as in most of the American 
 clmrches) merely a quartette, but the organist, Mr. Wilcox, 
 is fortunately a thorough churchman, and besides this, 
 is one of the most beautifal players I ever heard. 
 There are besides these several other churches, the names of 
 which I now forget, witli the exception of one in South Bos- 
 ton, S. Mathew's, the Priest of which was a very kind 
 friend to me. Of the Roman Churches, I know but little, 
 having seen only two, the Cathedral (a most wretched place)
 
 37 
 
 and one in Broadway, South Boston. They are, however, 
 about to erect a new Cathedral in Washington Street, and 
 the old one is to be pulled down. Of course, there are numbers 
 of Unitarian places of worship, but I shall mention only one, 
 the Stone Chapel in Tremont Street. This was, before the 
 revolution, called the King's Chapel, and belonged to the 
 Anglican Church. How the Unitarians have got hold of it, 
 I can't conceive. It is a Grrecian building, and contains a 
 fine old organ by " Harris," which was sent out as a present 
 by George the First. There is still the old Altar, used now as a 
 communion table, and moreover, with very nearly the same 
 liturgy, of course with considerate mutilation. In fact, I 
 believe they are obliged to use the Book of Common Prayer, 
 as the condition of their retaining the building. How they 
 contrive to swallow some parts of it, I can't imagine. On 
 the whole, matters ecclesiastical are, as will be perceived, at 
 a very low ebb in Boston, although I trust a better day is 
 coming ; some twenty years ago the Church of the Advent 
 would have been a sheer impossibility ; and although it still 
 stands alone, yet there is great progress being made. There 
 is, in connection with the church a sisterhood, and I believe 
 their numbers are increasing and their work beginning to 
 have its effect. Though rather pressed for a time, I can- 
 not finish this letter without mentioning the very great per- 
 fection to which they have brought their fire alarms. There 
 is a central fire station from which, by means of telegraphic 
 wires the bells of certain churches can be rung, there being 
 a different mode of ringing to denote each portion of the 
 city, and, branching from the above-mentioned central station 
 are wires extending all over Boston and its suburbs. In 
 every street, there is a small iron box fixed to the wall of on© 
 of the houses, and inside is an apparatus for communication 
 with the central station by means of the wires ; so that in 
 case of a fire, say in Broadway, South Boston, you run to
 
 38 
 
 the nearest box, press a little knob inside, which gives the' 
 alarm at the central station ; and from thence by means of 
 the bells to the firemen ; so that the engines are always 
 on the spot within five or ten minutes of the first alarm. 
 This excellent system, however, cannot be nearly so 
 much needed in Boston, as in most other American cities, 
 as it is, I hear, comparatively free from fires. Indeed Bos- 
 ton stands quite alone in several other important matters, 
 not least of which, is its quietness and freedom from rowdies. 
 It being almost the only city of any size in the country in 
 which the streets are perfectly safe at night. With regard to 
 climate, Boston is pleasant in the summer, by reason of the 
 cool sea breeze, but it is fearfully cold in the winter, although 
 the frost is seldom intense enough, to freeze the harbour en- 
 tirely across. This has indeed happened but twice since the 
 establishment of the Cunard line of steamers in 184-3, and on 
 both occasions a channel was cut for the vessel to pass 
 through, for the *' Britannia" in 1844, and the " Arabia" 
 in 1856, the Bostonians, showing a remarkable lack of Yan- 
 kee sharpness on the latter occasion, having (with inconceiva- 
 ble stupidity) cut for the " Arabia" (of 2,400 tons) a passage 
 of exactly the same width, as the one they had previously 
 cut for the " Britannia," (of 1,200 tons). We leave this on 
 Friday, and I shall write again as soon as I can after we 
 reach New York.
 
 LETTER YII. 
 
 New Youk. 
 
 We left Boston last Friday at five in the afternoon, by an 
 express train, which took us as far as Fall River, (a distance 
 of about 50 miles) and we were there transferred to the 
 Steamer ''Metropolis," which sailed ai^ seven the same 
 evening, and arrived in New York early the following morn- 
 ing ; but before telling you of my journey, I shall describe 
 the cars and locomotive. The cars are not, (like our carriages) 
 divided into compartments, but are entirely open from end 
 to end, about sixty feet long, and capable of containing 
 some fifty-six persons. The seats, (each intended to be occu- 
 pied by two travellers) are ranged in two rows, with a passage 
 up the centre of the car, between the seats, the backs of 
 which are moveable, so that if you prefer it, you can sit with 
 your back to the engine, though (in their normal condition) 
 all the seats face the engine. There is a door at each end 
 of the car, both of which open on small platforms ; similar 
 to those on the horse cars, I described to you, in one of my 
 letters from Boston, When the cars are coupled together, 
 you can pass from one end to the other with perfect ease. 
 They are lighted at night by two lamps, and warmed by a 
 stove at each end. A smoking car is generally attached
 
 40 
 
 to each train. It differs from the others, in having two or 
 three card tables and (instead of cushioned seats) chairs turn- 
 ing on a pivot, its furniture also includes an innumerable 
 multitude of spittoons. The cars are also frequently lighted 
 by gas ! 
 
 The body of the car is supported on two trucks, one at 
 each end, leaving the centre of the huge long affair entirely 
 unsupported : by this arrangement they are enabled to turn 
 almost at a right angle without going off the track, the for- 
 ward truck being frequently at that angle with the hinder 
 one. The motion is delightful, on account of the capital 
 arrangement of springs, &c.,and if the roads were only decent, 
 the travelling would be all that can be desired, but smooth 
 railways are unknown in America. One of our railway car- 
 riages with its four or six wheels set in one rigid frame, would 
 not go 300 yards on an American road without running off 
 the track ; while a car made in the American fashion, would 
 run on our splendid roads without the smallest danger of 
 leaving the rails, and with a motion which would be quite 
 imperceptible to the passenger. The locomotives generally 
 have four large driving wheels, six feet in diameter, and are 
 supported in front on a small four-wheeled truck, similar to 
 that used for the cars. The driver and fireman have a com- 
 fortable roof over their heads with large plate glass windows 
 in front of them. Besides the whistle, (generally a much larger 
 one than with us) there is always a bell, which is rung when 
 passing through a town (which the railways here do on a 
 level and without any fencing.) Besides these points of 
 difference from a European engine, there is the funnel, made 
 of enormous size with a gauze covering to catch the sparks 
 from the wood fire, and there is also the cow-catcher. In front 
 of the funnel ia a huge lamp, at least two feet square, which 
 throws a brilliant light a considerable distance ahead, and is 
 often the means of averting accident. Our journey to Fall
 
 41 
 
 River was performed at a speed of about thirty-five miles an 
 hour, the train being an express, and stopping but seldom. 
 To me, one of the greatest drawbacks to the system seemed to 
 be the continual opening and shutting of the doors. First, 
 would come through, the conductor, then a boy with books, 
 then another boy with eatables, and so on the whole way. 
 The country was not by any means striking, although (for 
 America) somewhat densely populated. We reached Fall 
 River before seven o'clock, and at once embarked on board 
 the steamer. And here I must again digress to describe 
 these truly magnificent vessels. The '^ Metropolis" is one of 
 a line of similar vessels, and indeed, when I describe her, I 
 give a general idea of all American River or Lake Steamers. 
 She is three hundred and fifty feet long and near sixty broad, 
 that is on the main deck, although not so wide in the water, 
 by reason of the build, which is the same as that of the ferry 
 boats described in a former chapter, this sort of continu- 
 ous sponson being called in America "the guards." On the 
 main deck is the ladies' saloon (at the extreme stern) and for- 
 ward of this the deck is unencumbered, and available for cargo. 
 The entrance gangway is just aft of the paddle wheels^ and 
 on entering you have, therefore^ the ladies' saloon on one side, 
 the staircase to the saloon above on the other, and opposite 
 to you, the captain's office. Forward are the boilers, one on 
 each side, poised as it were over the water, and with state- 
 rooms just above them ! Above this deck is the principal' 
 saloon, extending the entire length of the vessel, excepting a 
 small space of open deck astern, and another and larger, 
 forward. There is no attempt at concealing the machinery 
 which works up through the centre of the saloon, from 
 which it is distinctly visible through large plate glass 
 windows, and, being beautifally finished and kept perfectly 
 bright and clean, is rather an ornament than otherwise. The 
 furniture of the saloon is very handsome, consisting of chairs
 
 42 
 
 of every variety of shape, and tables, ranged down the centre 
 of the room, the sides being occupied by the doors of the 
 state rooms, which open off it. There is not much decoration 
 about the structural portion of the room, and far too great 
 a predominance of white paint. Indeed the whole vessel, 
 outside as well as in, is painted white. I have noticed that 
 the taste* of the people cannot discriminate, in decoration, 
 between bald nakedness and chaste simplicity, or between 
 vulgar gaudiness and gorgeous splendour. Below the main 
 deck is another long saloon with berths (four tiers of them) 
 on each side, and to this we descended for supper soon after 
 our start. The saloon was brilliantly lighted by chandeliers, 
 and a most abundant supply of food was on the table. 
 After supper most of the male passengers made their way to 
 the " bar room" (for there are a barber's shop and bar room 
 on every steamer), there to " liquor" and talk politics. Not 
 being minded to do either, I went out on to the open portion 
 of deck at the bows, where the greater number of the lady 
 passengers were assembled. I have not yet said a word re- 
 garding the external appearance of the vessel, and indeed, 
 my sketch conveys a much better idea than words could 
 possibly do. You will observe that the paddle wheels (forty feet 
 in diameter) are considerably nearer the stern than the bows ; 
 this is the case I find with all American steamers, and is an 
 improvement, to which we are only just becoming alive. The 
 large house on the upper or hurricane deck is the pilot house, 
 and contains the steering apparatus ; while the enormous 
 arches of wood, running along each side of the vessel, are 
 braces to strengthen her. In fact, the structure would stand 
 a great chance of falling to pieces in the first heavy sea, were 
 it not for these braces, for these steamers are not by any 
 means strongly built. Shortly after dark, being then in Long 
 Island sound, wo met a slight sea, which however made the
 
 43 
 
 "Metropolis" roll and pitch in the most uncomfortable 
 manner, more especially as the floor, sides, and roof of the 
 cabin seemed each to be endowed with an independent 
 motion of its own. I went to bed early and after a comfort- 
 able night, rose at seven o'clock and on emerging from the 
 saloon on the forward deck, found that our vessel had passed 
 " Hell Gate," and was close to New York. On the left hand 
 side rose up the thickly built Brooklyn Heights, while in 
 front extended the beautiful harbour, stretching away toward 
 Staten Island, and on the right were the wharfs, and red 
 brick warehouses of New York, above which rose up one tall 
 and handsome church spire, which, I was delighted to find, 
 belonged to an Anglican Church ; on close scrutiny other 
 spires could be seen, but on a first view of New York, Trinity 
 Church is decidedly the object which most arrests the eye. 
 Presently after rounding an abrupt point to the right, we 
 found ourselves moored alongside a wharf, and at once pre- 
 pared to land, a feat which was not accomplished without 
 some difiiculty, and at the imminent risk of being torn piece- 
 meal by the ])orters, &e. on the dock. At last we found our- 
 selves safe in one of the abominable hotel coaches already 
 described. After driving a few hundred yards straight from 
 the wharf, wo turned sharp to the left, and passing on the 
 right a small planted enclosure, entered an imposing, but 
 somewhat narrow street. Could this be Broadway ? I had 
 pictured a street as wide as George Street in Edinburgh, nay 
 wider, and planted with trees along the side walk, whereas this 
 was barely wider than Oxford Street, London. But Broadway it 
 was, and if disappointed with its width, I was most agreeablv 
 surprised at the imposing nature of the buildings. Presently 
 we passed a larg-e church on the loft, which I conjectured, 
 and rightly, to be Trinity ; the little narrow street leading 
 out of Broadway opposite to it, looking most unlike my pre- 
 vious ideas of that far-famed haunt of Mammon, Wall Street ;
 
 44 
 
 but such it was. A few hundred yards further on, you see 
 on the right, a most extraordinary building, looking with its 
 queer paintings between the numerous windows and the 
 multitude of flags all over it, (not to mention a fearful brass 
 band playing in a gallery over the door) just like some huge 
 travelling show, suddenly petrified into stone. It needed 
 not the name written in huge gilt letters on the front, to 
 point this out as Barnum's Museum. Opposite to it is an 
 almost old looking Grecian Church, and a large grey stone, 
 many windowed building, which we recognized from previous 
 descriptions, as the Astor House. A little further on we 
 passed a large white marble building surrounded with trees, 
 and standing in an open space. This is the city Hall. Then 
 succeeded rows of splendid marble buildings in all stages of 
 progress interspersed with little mean looking brick houses, 
 and after crossing a wide street, at the foot of which appeared 
 masts and other indications of the water side, our coach 
 drew up at the door of the S. Nicholas' Hotel. Here we went 
 through the same process as on our first arrival at the Revere 
 House, Boston, and afterwards sat down with sharpened ap- 
 petites to breakfast for the first time in the Metropolis of the 
 West.
 
 LETTER VIIL* 
 
 New York. 
 
 As I have already told you all about myself, I shall in this 
 letter give you an account of New York. The city occupies 
 at present the south western portion of Manhattan Island. 
 The entire island is already laid out in streets and squares, 
 the greater proportion of which are however still in embryo. 
 It is separated from the mainland, on the North by the 
 Harlom River (which however is rather a channel than a 
 river) connecting the Hudson with Long Island Sound ; on 
 the west by the Hudson, while its eastern side is washed by 
 the aforesaid Long Island Sound. It is, in fact, shaped very 
 much like a triangle, and towards the south west, ends in 
 a sharp point, at which, the junction of the North and East 
 Rivers, (as the Hudson and the Sound are often called) form 
 the harbour. The principal outlet to this harbour, is not 
 tlirough Long Island Sound, but lies to the south, between 
 Long Island and Staten Island ; another passage runs 
 between Staten Island and the Jersey shore. The Staten 
 
 * I must here observe that all those pai-ts o£ my letters coataiuing per- 
 soual details of my residence ia America, are purposely omitted. 1 paid 
 two visits to New York, on the first occasion remaining only a fortnight in 
 tlic latter, taking up my abode there, for many mouths. The letters from 
 New York contain the result of my observations during both visits, but I have 
 not thought it necessary to specify the date, on which each letter was written.
 
 46 
 
 and Long Island shores approacli very near each other at 
 this point, the passage between them being called " The 
 Narrows," and defended by a Fort, distant about eight miles 
 from New York. Beyond this, the harbour widens out, and 
 after passing round a narrow neck of land, which stretches 
 out from the Jersey shore (and is known as Sandy Hook) you 
 arc at sea. Close to Sandy Hook is the bar, and here the 
 depth of water seldom exceeds twenty-nine feet, rendering it 
 a somewhat difficult task to navigate very large vessels 
 safely over, and always making it necessary to call in the aid 
 of a pilot. 
 
 If however the entrance by Sandy Hook be such as to 
 require care, how much more intricate is the navigation 
 through Long Island Sound. The difficulty here is at the 
 point when the Harlem Eiver branches off, and was formerly 
 so great as to render the passage almost impracticable, and to 
 gain for it the title of Hell G-ate. By dint however of blast- 
 ing the rocks Avhich obstructed the passage, it has been 
 made navigable for craft drawing a small amount of water.* 
 This approach to New York is not nearly so striking as the 
 other. You miss altogether the beautiful bay, and the pic- 
 turesque shores of Staten Island, which are all seen to advan- 
 tage by any one arriving direct from Europe, and which make 
 the approach to the city exceedingly imposing. On the right 
 is the Long Island Shore, at this point well planted^ and 
 sprinkled with villas, and a little further on, the crowded 
 wharfs, buildings and spires of New York ; while on the left 
 is Staten Island also well wooded, and with numbers of 
 pretty residences overlooking the water ; beyond it is the 
 Jersey shore with the busy town of Jersey city (directly 
 opposite Now York), and farther on again the thickly planted 
 
 * The wise people in charge of thennfortuuate " Great Eastern" once took 
 that noble vessel through Hell Gate, the result being that she struck, and tore 
 a rent SO feet long in her bottom.
 
 4r 
 
 heights of Hoboken. The centre of the picture is occupied 
 by the glorious Hudson, which stretches far away inland 
 till lost to sight amongst the hills which form a beautiful 
 back-ground to the whole. Manhattan Island is about 12 
 miles long and nearly 4 wide, at the base of the triangle, that 
 is, at its northern end ; and the whole of this, with the excep- 
 tion of about two miles at the South, or " down town" end 
 as they call it, is laid out on a regular plan, having numbered 
 avenues running North and South with numbered streets 
 crossing them at right angles. The main artery of the city 
 is Broadway, and this commences at the extreme point of the 
 island, from which diverge two other long streets, one on 
 each water front. 
 
 As the island gradually widens out, of course more 
 -longitudinal streets become necessary ; and first appear the 
 Bowery on the East side of Broadway (from which it 
 branches off at Barnum's Museum opposite the Astor House,) 
 and West Broadway on the West side. These streets run 
 nearly parallel about one mile further, when they are crossed 
 by Canal Street, and a short way beyond this, the Avenues, 
 and numbered streets begin, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, and 9 th 
 Avenues being on the West side of Broadway, and Bowery 
 resolving itself into 4th, 3rd, 2nd and 1st Avenues. At tenth 
 street Broadway turns slightly to the West, thus crossing 
 5th, 6th, and 7th Avenues in succession. The streets are num- 
 bered as far as 150th street, but they are only built up to 
 about 42nd street. Having thus given you a general idea of 
 the plan of the city, I shall commence serving it up in 
 detail, and shall begin of coui-se with Broadway. The 
 extreme point of the island, between the North and East 
 Rivers, is occupied by an open space, partly planted, but 
 chiefly covered with dirt and dust, and called the Battery, 
 because I suppose there are no guns. There is a queer 
 looking erection at the water's edge, called " Castle Garden,''^
 
 48 
 
 a name which, conveys as much meaning of what the place 
 really is, as though it had been called Mont Blanc. There 
 certainly is no garden, nor have I yet discovered any castle, 
 the place being chiefly known as a rendezvous for freshly 
 arrived emigrants. Facing this is a small square, called the 
 Bowling. Green, which was once the residence of the fashion 
 and wealth of New York, but is now occupied by almost 
 entirely by steamboat offices. From this square opens 
 Broadway and up this we shall now proceed, first remarking 
 on the army of white omnibuses which completely block up 
 the street. 
 
 Talking of omnibuses, the American ones are certainly 
 far better than ours, simply because they are wider and, 
 generally higher. There is no conductor, the, driver 
 receiving the fare through a little round hole in the roof, 
 and controlling the door by means of strap, one end of 
 which is fastened to it, and the other to Jehu's foot ; so 
 that when you wish to emerge, you have merely to pull the 
 strap, and the door opens and the omnibus stops. I have 
 often thought the poor fellow's ankle must be sore before 
 the day is over. The buildings in the lower part of Broad- 
 way are mostly of brown stone and are very lofty, so much 
 so as to make the street, which is not at all wider than Oxford 
 Street, if so wide, appear much narrower than it really is. 
 They have a terrible habit here too, of allowing cart loads of 
 boxes and bales to accumulate on the side walk, and as it is 
 at the risk /of one's life to venture into the centre of the street, 
 most people prefer either to wait ; or clamber over the heap, 
 which decidedly impedes the circulation of the crowd. The 
 first building of importance is Trinity Church, which stands 
 within a church-yard planted with fine trees, on the left hand 
 side, and directly opposite to it is Wall Street. This is the 
 great business-place of the city, and here are the Custom 
 House and Merchant's exchange. It is a short narrow street
 
 49 
 
 leading down from Broadway to the East River. Of Trinity 
 Church I shall tell you more by and bye, and will therefore 
 say no more of it now. About quarter of a mile further on 
 we come to the great focus of most of the traffic in the city. 
 Here, Park Place leading to the Bowery and east side of the 
 city, and Vesey Street leading to the west, branch off from 
 Broadway, On the left in the corner of Vesey Street is St. 
 Paul's Church, and just beyond it, on the further side of 
 Vesey Street, is the Astor House, while opposite these, and at 
 the junction of Broadway end Park Place is Barnum's 
 Museum. 
 
 From this point start the horse cars for all the avenues, 
 and here concentrate nearly all the omnibuses, causing inextri- 
 cable confusion, which culminates just opposite Barnum's, 
 where may be witnessed, every day, a performance popularly 
 known as Barnum's quadrille. This is a most interesting 
 spectacle, and I have seen half a dozen couples, at each side 
 engaged in the dance. The pair generally consists of a timid 
 lady and a valiant policeman, who often have to " chasser" into 
 the middle of the street and back again five or six times before 
 they can get across, the accompaniments being supplied gra- 
 tuitously by the brass band on Barnum's gallery. Passing 
 on, we have on the right an open space, planted with trees 
 ana dignified by the name of the Park, though the City Hall, 
 which stands in the centre of it, occupies nearly its whole 
 area. The building is of white marble, and did not strike 
 me as in very bad taste, although every one abuses it. There 
 is a cupola at the top crowned by a figure of justice, which 
 was put up in defiance of the strong recommendations of the 
 New York papers to substitute a weather-cock, as being 
 cheaper and far more appropriate. Inside the building are 
 held the Courts of Justice. Beyond this, on the same side, 
 is the splendid white marble store of Stuart, at which may 
 be bought everything except eatables ; and a little further on,
 
 50 
 
 is the building belonging to Appleton, the great publisher. 
 Near this, on the left hand side, is Taylor's Saloon, a huge 
 restaurant, fitted up in the most frightfully gaudy style, and 
 supposed to be gorgeous. I can't say much for it as an eating 
 place either : everything is filthy, and I once had coffee 
 brought me in a pot half filled with old tea leaves. The 
 people too are a most horribly suspicious generation, the 
 waiter always stands staring at you like a basilisk to see 
 that you don't walk off with the spoons. But I do not quote 
 Taylor's as by any means a specimen of New York restaurants. 
 At Delmonico's you can get as good a dinner as any where 
 in London, perhaps better. A little way beyond this, Canal 
 Street crosses Broadway, leading to the right, into the Bowery, 
 and to the left, down to the Hudson or North River. Most 
 of the stores in this neighbourhood are superb, some of them 
 are perfect palaces, far exceeding in appearance any in London. 
 About 300 yards beyond Canal Street is Wallack's Theatre 
 on the left hand side, and close to it on the same side, the 
 S. Nicolas Hotel, of which more anon, and next to it is the 
 Prescott House. Continuing, we have on the right the Metro- 
 politan Hotel, nearly as large as the S. Nicholas, and con- 
 taining within its courtyard a theatre known as Niblo's 
 garden, and further on, Laura Keene's theatre, opposite to 
 which is S. Thomas' Church. At this point an attempt has 
 been made to preserve a few trees along the side walk, but 
 the street is too narrow to allow them their proper effect. 
 One thing which must strike a stranger very much, is the 
 multitude of flags everywhere visible. Every hotel has three 
 or four flying, and you continually find advertisements in the 
 shape of flags flying from ropes stretched across the street. 
 On the left, about quarter of a mile beyond S. Thomas' 
 Church is the Lafarge House, and a little further on the other 
 side in Astor Place, leading into the Bowery. The building 
 which was formerly used as the Opera House, and which was
 
 51 . 
 
 the scene of a fearful riot on the occasion of Mr. Macready's 
 performance, is located here, but is now used used for other 
 purposes. A few yards beyond this is 10th street and here 
 Broadway bends to the left. At the corner, on the right hand 
 side, stands Grace Church with its parsonage. It is about three 
 miles from the Battery to this point and (the street being 
 perfectly straight,) the view either up or down is exceedingly 
 fine, the spires of Grace Church at one end, and of Trinity at 
 the other, forming beautiful terminations to the long vista of 
 splendid buildings. Proceeding onwards for about quarter 
 of a mile we reach Union Square, extending from 14th to 
 16th streets. It is nicely laid out with trees in the centre, 
 and at one corner is an equestrian statue of Washington, 
 in bronze. A little way up 14th street on the rigbt is the 
 Academy of Music, and on the further side of the square is 
 the Everett House, a very good botel. The Fourth Avenue 
 railroad skirts the Eastern side of the square, and the only 
 object noticeable on the Western side is the Meeting House 
 of Dr. Cheever, one of the great antislavery agitators. His 
 Church which was built after an idea of his own, pretty 
 clearly proves by its design, his one-sided character. The 
 front is (excepting detail) a sort of reproduction of some 
 church which took the doctor's fancy in Europe, and has two 
 towers, one half finished (apparently.) This was thought to 
 be highly picturesque, and certainly has the merit of being 
 an entirely original idea. Between this and 2.3rd street, 
 there is nothing worthy of remark, save the extreme badness 
 of the pavement, which was full of most dreadful inits and 
 holes, and caused vehicles to jump about in such a manner as 
 to render the retaining of one's seat, a matter of difficulty. At 
 23rd street Broadway crosses Fifth Avenue, obliquely, and 
 here also, extending from 23rd to 26th street is Madison 
 Square. Occupying the entire block between 23rd and 14th 
 streets, and extending a considerable distance back into both
 
 52 
 
 streets, is the Prince of American Caravanserais, the Fifth 
 Avenue Hotel ; it is faced with white marble, and is seven 
 stories in height, completely dwarfing Delmonico's new Hotel, 
 on the other corner of 24th street. Beyond this there are 
 few objects of interest in Broadway : it crosses 6th Avenue at 
 32nd street, and after intersecting 8 th Avenue, merges into 
 the Bloomingdale Eoad, and under different names extends 
 as far as Albany, 150 miles off. 
 
 Although Broadway is the principal street in the city, it 
 must yield the palm to Fifth Avehue as regards its appear- 
 ance. In this street are some of the handsomest town resi- 
 dences of which any city in the world can boast. They are 
 for the most part built of brown stone, and are of varied and 
 frequently elegant designs. The street too is wider than 
 Broadway, and at its lower end there are rows of fine trees 
 along the side walks. Altogether the fifth Avenue of New 
 York will bear comparifeon with any street in the world, and 
 when it extends, as it eventually will, to a length of three 
 miles, ending at the Central Park, will certain surpass any street 
 which I, at least, have seen. In this comparison I do not 
 include Prince's Street, Edinburgh, which I leave entirely 
 out of the question, as being above and beyond all compari- 
 son. There are several handsome places of worship in the 
 street, most of them belonging to the Dutch Reformed 
 Church. Between 40th and 4 1st street is the reservoir of the 
 Croton water, with which New York is most abundantly 
 supplied. The water is brought to the city a distance of 
 about forty miles, and the channel through which it flows is 
 carried on embankments or through tunnels as far as the 
 Harlem River, which it crosses by means of a splendid aque- 
 duct nearly 1,500 feet long, and having fifteen arches 180 
 feet high : from this point to New York the ground is nearly. 
 iovel. The water is very good, but one^s comfort in using it 
 i« mucli aH'ected by the quantities of insects called " Croton-
 
 bugs,'' which always infect its neighbourhood. At present, 
 Fifth Avenue forms the central abode of the elite of New 
 York, the fashionable quarter extending along its entire 
 length, and through the cross streets on each side into Madi- 
 son Avenue which runs parallel with it : in a few years 
 however I expect that the lower part of Fifth Avenue will be 
 given up tp shops, as there is a steady move gradually fur- 
 ther " up town," which has been going on ever since the 
 city was built. The rents of the houses are perfectly exor- 
 bitant, as much as 2,000 dollars a year, (£400) being given 
 for a house, which might easily be rented even in London 
 for £150, and in Edinburgh for £80 or 90. The houses are 
 handsome and commodious, but I do not think, very sub- 
 stantially built, their safety too is constantly imperilled by 
 the tremendous fires which are always, in the winter time, 
 kept blazing in the furnaces, and if one house catches fire, 
 " next door" is pretty nearly sure to follow. In these cases 
 however, there is little danger to the inmates : as the roof 
 generally affords an opportunity for escape, when retreat by 
 the door is cut off; but in the poorer parts of the city, where 
 "tenement houses" abound, the loss of human life is most 
 fearful. These vile mantraps are built in the most reckless 
 careless manner, and run up to a height of frequently seven 
 and eight floors, without any means of escape, save perhaps 
 one staircase. Several instances have occurred, since I came 
 here, of fires originating, close to the staircase in houses, such 
 as I have mentioned, and the result in almost every case, was 
 frightful loss of life. I remember one night, during which 
 there occurred in New York and Brooklyn, three fires, two 
 boiler explosions and two or three fatal accidents at the docks, 
 the whole being wound up with an execution early in the 
 morning. In one fire fifteen persons perished, in another three, 
 and I think some five or six were killed by the explosions, 
 which both happened in Brooklyn. One of the great attrac-
 
 54, 
 
 tions of New York is the Central Park, wMeh is in course of 
 construction at the upper end of the city. As yet indeed, it 
 is quite out of the town, and occupies a space extending in 
 length from 60th to 100th street, a distance of two miles, and 
 in width, from 8th to 5th Avenue, or about three quarter of a 
 mile. Although, as yet, unfinished, it is possible to judge of 
 its general appearance, and it will, when completed, form a 
 most beautiful and picturesque Park. The lower end is laid 
 out chiefly in broad drives, and gravelled walks, while the 
 upper part is planted with shrubbery and contains pretty 
 winding paths. This part is called the " Ramble." There is 
 a large piece of water crossed at several points by very 
 handsome stone bridges, and at the lower end of it, a set 
 fountains and a cascade are in course of construction. The 
 Park has already become the. fashionable drive, and from 3 
 to 5 o'clock it is crowded by the vehicles of " Upper Tendom." 
 In nothing do the Americans differ more from us than in the 
 construction of their carriages, and although they certainly 
 build them much lighter than we do, such a thing as an 
 "equipage" is perfectly unknown. They seem to have but 
 two styles of carriage ; either a close carriage, with a large 
 body hung on small light wheels, or a small open barouche ; 
 and no colour but black is ever used, making the close vehicles 
 resemble mourning coaches, most painfully. Their light trot- 
 ting wagons are very funny-looking things, with four spidery 
 looking wheels all the same height, and the front and hind 
 wheels not more than five or six inches apart, rendering it a 
 matter of no small difiiculty to get into the seat, which 
 generally holds two persons. In these vehicles the " fast" 
 portion of the New York community demonstrate their right 
 to the title, by driving along the Bloomingdale Road at the 
 rate of 18 or 20 miles an hour. Among the amusements of 
 the city, the theatres of course occupy a prominent place, and 
 in some of them the performances are of a very high charac-
 
 i>o 
 
 ter. The best company is to be found at Wallack's Theatre 
 on Broadway : indeed, during the past year this company has 
 been above the average of London theatres. I saw the " Over- 
 land Eoute" performed by them, and having seen it previ- 
 ously, as you know, at the Haymarket Theatre in London 
 (at which it was first brought out), I must say the New York 
 performance was beyond all comparison better than the 
 London one, actors, scenery, and music, being alike superior. 
 Besides this, there is Laura Keene's Theatre, also on Broad- 
 way, and here the performances are often very good, and the 
 orchestra is one of the best I ever heard in any theatre. 
 Niblo's Garden and the *Winter Garden are also very good 
 theatres, the former being part of the same building as the 
 Metropolitan Hotel, and the latter adjoining the Lafarge 
 House. *The opera House or Academy of Music as they call 
 it, is in 14th street, and is a fine large house, hardly equal 
 however, in my opinion, to the Boston Theatre. The interior 
 decoration struck mo as being too heavy, and the entrance is 
 abominable, t Besides the above meiitioned there are also 
 theatres in the Bowery, known as the Old and New Bowery 
 theatres, but I never was inside either of them, the audience 
 in general being of a somewhat " roudy" character. Barnum's 
 Museum has also a theatre in connection with it, after the 
 manner of the Boston Museum, though Bamum generally 
 keeps the museum part of the establishment pretty promi- 
 nently before the public. He is always getting up some 
 kind of grand humbug or another, his latest effort being the 
 procuring of an nnfortunate little idiotic nigger, whose head 
 he shaved, and whom he exhibits as a nondescript link be- 
 tween man and monkey. This " freak of nature" he has 
 denominated the "What is it," the answer to which question 
 
 • Both the Winter Garden and Academy of Music have since been burnt, 
 t It was in this theatre that the grand bail was given to H. K. H. the Prince 
 of Wales in 1860.
 
 56 
 
 would be " Another of your unblushing pieces of humbug, 
 Mr. Barnum." A story, for the truth of which I cannot 
 vouch, is told of Mr. Barnum's uncommonly sharp practice. 
 An advertisement appeared in the " Herald" to the following 
 ejEfect " Four dollars a week — to play four hours a day — a 
 vacancy in Barnum's brass band offers an eligible opportunity 
 for pel-formers on the Cornet-a-piston," An applicant soon 
 appeared, and was duly installed in the band. At the end 
 of the week he went to Mr. Barnum for his four dollars, and 
 the following conversation is reported to have ensued. Mr. 
 Barnum: "Well, sir, I suppose you've called about your bill." 
 Victim : " Yes, sir, here it is," Mr. Barnum : " Well I guess 
 you've made a considerable mistake here, I don't owe you four 
 dollars, no how you can fix it." Victim : " But indeed you 
 do ; you advertised for a player, and offered him four dollars 
 a week." Mr. Barnum : " No, Sirree, I tell you I didn't. I 
 offered you the use of my gallery to practice and blow away 
 at your tarnal trumpet, so as you would'nt disturb any body 
 with the row, and I guess you've had it uncommon cheap at 
 four dollars, but if you cant pay why there's an end of it, so 
 make tracks, and clear out." In the midst of a great deal of 
 rubbish in the museum, I saw one or two interesting things, 
 among others, a really good collection of aquaria. There is 
 a great want of some large hall for musical or other meetings, 
 such a thing as an oratorio is never heard, except on Christ- 
 mas eve, when the " Messiah" is performed at the Academy 
 of Music. The hotels of New York are both splendid and 
 numerous, the finest being the Fifth Avenue, the S. Nicho- 
 las, the Metropolitan and the Astor, though some of the 
 smaller ones such as the Everett House in Union Square, 
 the " Clarendon," the "New York," or the " Brevort," are 
 much more comfortable. The Fifth Avenue Hotel is a 
 magnificent building cased with white marble, and contains 
 accommodation for 1,200 guests. The principal eating room
 
 57 
 
 is a splendid hall, nearly square, and measuring, I should think, 
 100 feet across and from 20 to 30 feet in height. The draw- 
 ing-rooms are all fitted up in the most expensive manner, and 
 the effect of the decoration is very beautiful, although some- 
 what cold ; nothing being employed but white and gold with 
 innumerable mirrors. The basement stories of all these great 
 hotels are occupied by shops, the owners of which pay an 
 enormously high rent, but I suppose they find it a profitable 
 transaction in the end. The St. Nicholas, at which I put up 
 on my first arrival in New York, although not quite so large 
 as the Fifth Avenue Hotel, is a splendid house. It is how- 
 ever frequented by a muoh less select style of company, and, 
 (the bar-room especially) is frequently the scene of broils 
 and disturbances, in which pistols and bowie knives are reck- 
 lessly made use of. To do the New Yorkers justice however, 
 the persons who indulge in this kind of pastime, are generally 
 Southerners, and most frequently politics are the origin of 
 the quarrel. I shall here bring this letter to a close, for 
 though much more might be said about hotels, you have, I 
 dare say, had enough of the subject.
 
 LETTEE IX. 
 
 New York. 
 
 As H. entertains a mortal aversion to the very name of 
 " ship" or " steamer," she need not read this letter unless 
 she likes, for I give you warning that it is about ships that 
 I am now going to write. One of my favourite lounges, is 
 the line of wharfs, on the North or Hudson River, at which 
 lie most of the steamers, the East River being occupied 
 chiefly by sailing vessels. These wharfs are, in all cases, 
 long piers built out into the river, and the vessels lie at either 
 side of them, at right angles to the shore. I should think 
 that no single port in the world can show at one time, such 
 an assemblage of splendid steamships, as may be often seen 
 here,* and besides the Ocean Steamers, there are always six 
 or eight of the enormous Sound and Hudson River boats. As 
 it may perhaps interest you, I shall follow tlie line of piers on 
 the Hudson River beginning at Pier No. 1, at the Battery, 
 and give some idea of the steamers sailing from each. First 
 comes a line of steamers running to Providence, for Boston, 
 starting every evening at 5 o'clock, and next to them is the 
 
 • I have seou tlio '• Groat Eastern," the " rcibia," the " Asia," the " Adri- 
 .itic," the " Niagara" and tlio " VaiidorbiU," all in the harbour at the same 
 tiiiio; licsiilcs ficvtral others aliove 2,000 tons ; those I have uamed above, 
 (the •' Asia" excelled,) being the live largest steamships- afloat.
 
 59 
 
 wharf of the Fall River boats, the " Metropolis," "Bay State," 
 
 and " Empire State." At the other side of the same pier lie 
 
 Vanderbilt's European steamers, running from New York to 
 
 Havre via Southampton. Of these the " Vauderbilt" is the 
 
 largest and finest. She is a splendid vessel of about 3,000 
 
 tons of our measurement, though by the American method she 
 
 is 3,350 tons. She is a very fine model, and is one of the fastest 
 
 vessels afloat. She is lightly rigged with two masts, as are 
 
 all the American steamships, and has two walking beam 
 
 engines. Nest to this is a line of fine steamers running to 
 
 Charlestown and Savannah ; and then follow numbers of 
 
 sailing vessels. About half a mile up, are the Hudson River 
 
 Steamers, leaving New York for Albany every evening at 6 
 
 o'clock, and reaching their destination early in the mornino-. 
 
 There are two lines of these, one consisting of two fine steamers, 
 
 the " Commodore" and " Fi-ancis Skiddy," while to the other 
 
 belong the two largest river steamers in the world, the 
 
 " Isaac Newton"* and " New "World." To give some idea of 
 
 the enormous size of these boats, T may state that the " Isaac 
 
 Newton" is 400 feet long by 70 feet broad, and has 4 tiers 
 
 of cabins. Her saloon is near 20 feet high, and has an arclied 
 
 roof in imitation of a stone vaulting, and is decorated in the 
 
 "Strawbery Hill" Gotliic style. There is a gallery running 
 
 all round, from wliicli access is gained to the upper tier of 
 
 State-rooms. Her general construction is similar to that of 
 
 the "Metropolis," though I should imagine that she is not quite 
 
 so strongly built. The most beautiful saloon I saw on any 
 
 of these boats, was that of the " Francis Skiddy." Like tlio 
 
 "Isaac Newton's" it has a gallery running round it, but the 
 
 roof is entirelj' of stained glass, and the general stylo of 
 
 decoration is rich and handsome, some of the state-rooms, also, 
 
 are most sumptuously furnished. Altogether these steamers 
 
 Tlie " Isaac Newton" lias since been burnt.
 
 60 
 
 are so totally difTerent from anything we have at home, that 
 one who has not seen them can hardly form a correct idea of 
 thoir appearance, but, like the hotels, they have been described 
 over and over again, and so I will leave them. Next to this 
 is the ferry to Jersey city, at which place is the Cunard dock, 
 occupying the same relative position as that in Boston. 
 Further on is a line of fine boats running to Stonington on 
 Long Island Sound, en route for Boston. These are the 
 finest of the Sound Boats ; there are two of them, the *' Ply- 
 mouth Rock'^ and " Commonwealth." The next Steamship 
 wharf is that of a line running to Aspinwall, on the Isthmus 
 of Panama, and owned by Mr. Vanderbilt. I cannot however 
 say much in favour of them. I have been on board two, 
 the " North Star" and the " Northern Light," and more vile 
 accommodations I never saw — a height of six feet in the 
 state-rooms, and three tiers of berths in each. The ships are 
 pretty fair models, but have a wretchedly dirty, untidy appear- 
 ance, and the whole management is inconceivably bad. Near 
 this is a line of Yery good boats running to New Orleans 
 and the Havannah, of these the " Cahauba" and " De Soto" 
 are very fast vessels, and are comfortably fitted up inside. 
 Passing on we come to the wharf of the Galway Steamers, 
 and next to them is a line to Havre and Southampton, 
 consisting of the "Arago" and "Fulton," both very good 
 substantial boats of about 2,200 tons, not fast, but comforta- 
 ble, well managed, and consequently safe. 
 
 A short way above this, and at the foot of Canal Street is 
 the pier originally used by the " Collin's" line of Atlantic 
 Steamers, and now owned by the Company which has bought 
 up the three remaining vessels of the original fleet. This is 
 the last pier at which there is any regular line of vessels, and 
 1 wish now to say a few words on the subject of the rivalry 
 existing between us tmd the Americans with regard to ocean 
 .steamuig. Although thoy claim for Fulton the honor of
 
 61 
 
 inventing steam navigation (falsely as we know), yet they 
 never attempt to deny that to us belongs the merit of intro- 
 ducing Ocean Steamers. If I remember rightly, their first 
 regular line of Transatlantic steamers ran to Havre, and 
 consisted of the " Washington," " Herman" and " Humbolt," 
 the first of which left New York in 1845, and notwithstand- 
 ing their boasted superiority, was beaten by two fall days by 
 the " Britannia," then one of the Cunard Fleet : and till the 
 establishment of the Collin's line, these steamers were the only 
 ones sailing across the Atlantic under the stars and stripes. 
 The building and starting of the Collin's Steamers was cer- 
 tainly a bold and splendid enterprise, and deserved success ; 
 the " Atlantic" the first vessel, being superior in size, model, 
 and internal equipments to the " Asia" or " Africa" than the 
 largest of the Cunard fleet. And for a time they did succeed, 
 but people soon discovered that that great requisite on board 
 a ship at sea, discipline, was totally wanting on the American 
 ships, while it was in a state of highest perfection in the 
 British vessels. Misfortune soon followed in the loss of the 
 "Arctic," and besides the withdrawal of public confidence, 
 they had to suffer from the unwillingness of their own Govern- 
 ment to advance them any kind of subsidy. Meantime how- 
 ever the " Baltic" had canied off the laurels, for speed, and 
 remained champion of the sea, the new Canard Steamer 
 " Arabia," though of equal size, being unable to cope with her 
 in speed. In 1856 the " Persia" appeared, to win back the 
 lost honors of the British Steamers, and started on her first 
 voyage in company with the Collin's Steamer " Pacific." On 
 board the American ship they must have felt that their chance 
 was gone, when they saw this magnificent vessel prej)ared 
 for the race, the British ship being far superior to the American 
 in point of size and power, and quite equal to her in beauty of 
 form. *But the "Pacific" was doomed never to try her speed 
 
 * I was told by the chief officer of the "Persia" that the chief engineer of
 
 62 
 
 with her rival; the " Persia" reached New York after a voyage 
 rendered frightfully dangerous by ice and fogs, and the "Pa- 
 cific" has never since been heard of. But the enterprise and 
 spirit was riot yet crushed out of the New Yorkers, they pre- 
 pared to surpass the new Cunarder, and in 1858 launched the 
 noble '' Adriatic." She exceeded the " Persia" in size by some 
 SOO tons and lier lines were certainly finer, but her machinery 
 was at fault, and moreover this last efibrt had ruined Collins, 
 She made one passage to Liverpool and back, and then the 
 Company expired, after fighting manfully to the last, thus 
 leaving the victory in the hands of our vessels. It is but 
 just, however J to remember that the American Government 
 gave no help whatever to their own line, while Cunard's 
 Company has been for a long time in possession of a large 
 subsidy. Still, a great deal of the bad fortune attending 
 Collins' vessels arose from want of care in the selection of 
 officers and crew, the latter being invariably changed for 
 every voyage, and moreover we must take into consideration 
 the state of perfection to which their rivals had been brought, 
 for I can say, without hesitation, tliat, in no service, mercan- 
 tile or otherwise, could eight ships be brought together 
 whose discipline and arrangements are equal to those of the 
 Cunard Fleet.* And the result of tliis is that whilst other 
 companies have lost numbers of vessels by various kinds of 
 
 the "racific" was on board the "Persia" just before the vessels sailed, and 
 that he, liavinc; been '' liquoring up" most likely — obsei-ved on leaving — 
 
 "We'll lick yon, or go to H , I guess," little dreaming how jirophetic his 
 
 words were. 
 
 • Since the above was written, many changes have taken place. The Cu- 
 nard Company Imvc added to their fleet the " Australasian" of 2,800 tons and 
 the "China" of 2,. 160 tons both screw steamers, and lastly the "Scotia," 
 paddle wheel steamer of 4,200 tons. This ves.sel being the largest merchant 
 vessel afloat except (he "Great Eastern." 
 
 The "A<lriatic" has since been purchased by the Galway Company, and 
 now siils under the British flag. She i.^ registered at 3,G00 tons British 
 moasurement.
 
 63 
 
 disaster, the Cunard Company, since its first establishment 
 eighteen years ago, has lost but one vessel, the " Columbia," 
 and in that case, not only were all the passengers and crew, 
 with their luggage, and the ship's mails and cargo saved, but 
 even the fittings of the cabins, &c., and the engines. The 
 " Adriatic" and " Atlantic" are now owned by another Com- 
 pany, and are again running across the Atlantic, between 
 New York and Havre. The first-named vessel requiring 
 more than a mere passing notice^ I will endeavour to give 
 some idea of her peculiar features. She is without exception 
 the largest wooden vessel afloat, being 350 feet in length, 50 
 feet broad and 33 feet deep from the main deck. Her saloons 
 are fitted up very beautifully, especially the dining saloon, 
 which occupies a deck house, and is about 70 feet long by 35 
 feet wide, while below is another long saloon extending 
 nearly the whole length of the ship, and having state-rooms 
 opening ofl" it. The decoration of this room is very showy, 
 but is somewhat cheap and tawdry-looking, whilst the extreme 
 lowness of the roof, only 6 feet 8 inches, and the want of 
 light render it anything but a cheerful-looking apartment. 
 The state-rooms are the same height, and cannot be compared 
 for comfort with those of the Cuuarders. Externally the 
 " Adriatic" presents a truly magnificent appearance ; her 
 lines are perfection, and she sits on the water more gracefully 
 than any vessel I ever saw, with the single exception of the 
 " Great Eastern." She has the usual American upright 
 stem, and rounded stern, and is rigged with two light masts ; 
 which, as well as her two unusually high funnels, rake to a 
 degree I never saw equalled in any large vessel. This fine 
 ship seems to have been started afresh under much better 
 auspices than at her first appearance ; she is Avell officered, 
 and equipped, and is a great favourite with the travelling 
 public. 
 
 In several accounts Avhich I have seen given in our papers
 
 Great Eastern . . . 20,000 tons 
 Adriatic ... 4,125 „ 
 
 Vanderbilt ... 3,350 „ 
 Persia ... 3,680 „ 
 
 64 
 
 of this and other American vessels, I have noticed that 
 their tonnage has been given almost invariably incorrectly, 
 owing to the difference which exists between our method of 
 reckoning and that which is in use in the United States ; the 
 American method making a ship more tonnage than our's 
 does. Thus I remember seeing a list of some of the largest 
 steamers afloat ; and their tonnage was given, as in the first 
 
 column : 
 
 (British meas.) Great Eastern... 18,878 tons 
 Adriatic... ... ... 5,879 ,, 
 
 Vanderbilt (Arnericau) ... 5,300 „ 
 
 (British mens.) Persia ... 3,309 ,, 
 
 Any one looking at this would imagine the " Adriatic" to 
 be near twice as large as the " Persia," which I need hardly 
 say is very far from being the case. The fact is, that the 5,879 
 tons of the " Adriatic" are a very great stretch of the ima- 
 gination ; her actual tonnage by American measurement being 
 4,125, while by ours it is 3,600. Above, I have given the 
 tonnage of the four vessels named, first, as it is generally 
 (and erroneously as regards the two American ships) stated ; 
 ana secondly, the exact and true measurement of each, accord- 
 ing to the American method, and the correctness of which 
 I can vouch for. The fact is, the American measurement is 
 very nearly similar to our own carpenter's or builder's mea- 
 surement, which, as is well known, gives a vessel more tonnage 
 than does the register. The tonnage of our steamers is more- 
 over still further diminished by their being officially registered 
 Avithout the engine-room ; for example, on the sea-going 
 certificate on board the " Persia," she is registered at 2,079 
 tons, the register of the engine-room (1,230 tons) being de- 
 ducted from her entire tonnage. But I have bored you quite 
 enough with steamers, and will therefore bring this letter 
 to a close. My next shall treat of matters more interesting.
 
 LETTER X, 
 
 New York. 
 This letter is to be devoted to Ecclesiastical subjects ; for 
 though, you and H. may not find it particularly interesting ; 
 I know that J. will, more especially as it is ground which 
 has been little touched on in any works I have seen on Ame- 
 rica. New York is the great strong-hold of the American 
 Church, which here occupies nearly, if not quite as prominent 
 a position, as the Established Church does in London ; both 
 numerically and intellectually. But what is of more conse- 
 quence, it is also the focus of the Catholicity of the church, 
 and presents in this respect a delightful contrast to Boston. 
 Before, however, speaking of the Church as a body, I must try 
 to give you some idea of the different services in the more 
 prominent of the City churches, as well as of the buildings 
 themselves, and shall begin with Trinity. Trinity parish 
 was originally endowed by Queen Anne^ and was for a long 
 period the sole parish in New York. It is now by far the 
 most important, not only in the city, but in the country. I 
 cannot define its limits very accurately, for it appears to own 
 ground all over the city, and its wealth is something enormous. 
 The financial and temporal affairs generally, arc managed 
 by a committee of vestry-men, having at their head a comp- 
 troller ; and its spiritual direction is in the hands of a rector
 
 06 
 
 and nine or ten assistant clergy. In addition to the parish 
 church, there are three chapels, namely, S. Paul's in Broad- 
 way, S. John's in Yarrick Street, and Trinity Chapel in 25th 
 Street : and there are also several other churches in the city, 
 which have been built and endowed by Trinity, Trinity 
 Church, as I have already mentioned, is situated at the head 
 of Wall Street in Broadway, and is a large third-pointed 
 building ; consisting of a nave with side aisles, a chancel 
 (also with aisles,) and a tower and spire, at what ought to be 
 the west end, though it is in fact the east end. The nave 
 contains seven bays and the chancel, which is the same 
 height and width as the nave, contains two. 
 
 The westernmost bay (supposing the church to stand cor- 
 rectly) is occupied on each side by an open porch, and the 
 two bays of the chancel aisle are considerably lower than 
 those of the nave aisles, thus forming the only external indi- 
 cation of the existence of any chancel at all, the chancel cle- 
 restory being supported by flying buttresses : the roof is 
 of good pitch and is covered with lead. The aisle and cle- 
 restory windows are of three lights each and exhibit the 
 most ordinary form of third-pointed tracery. The tower is 
 very bold and massive and by far the best feature in the build- 
 ing : the u-est front is divided into four stages, the entrance 
 porch occupying the lowest, and a five light window the 
 next, which above come the clock-face, and two large three 
 light belfry windows. The lower stages of the sides are 
 somewhat unsatisfactorily ornamented by empty inches, 
 which don't look as if they were ever meant to contain 
 statues. At each corner of the tower is a bold, and at the 
 same time graceful, pinnacle, from the base of which spring 
 Hying buttresses supporting a beautiful crocketed spire. 
 Altogether this tower and spire constitute the best specimen 
 of pointed architecture I have seen here, and indeed would 
 be an ornament to any city. Tlie extreme height of the
 
 67 
 
 spire is 280 feet, aud there is a very good stairway to within 
 40 feet of the top. Inside the tower is a fine peal of 12 
 bells by Mears of London. The interior of the church is at 
 first sight really striking, by reason of its great size and the 
 general church-like character of the design. The piers of 
 the arches supporting the clerestory are of very good design, 
 as is also the vaulting of the roof, which however is un- 
 fortunately only a plaster imitation of stone. The light is 
 thrown high, and is subdued by painted glass in all the 
 windows, not however of very good quality. The chancel is 
 fitted up with plain oak stalls for the choir and clergy, 
 and is paved with coloured marble. The altar stands in 
 front of a somewhat poor-looking reredos, coloured and 
 gilded, but is not of dimensions suitable for so large a 
 church, nor is it properly vested — and the ornaments are 
 all at present wanting ; although a pair of handsome can- 
 dlesticks has been presented, and will I dare say soon ap- 
 pear in their proper place. The altar window is of large 
 size and consists of seven lights ; it is filled with stained glass, 
 some of the colouring of which is very good, although it 
 would be far more suitable for architecture of an earlier date. 
 The organ occupies the interior of the tower, and has a hand- 
 some oak front in the church, with the choir organ in a sepa- 
 rate case. The projecting balcony in which the orgainst 
 sits, as well as the case of the organ, is of exceedingly good 
 design, and is altogether a really beautiful specimen of wood 
 carving. The instrument is a very large one by Erben of 
 New York, and has 16 feet metal speaking pipes in front. 
 There are services in this church daily, and the doors remain 
 open all day long. The week-day services are simply read, 
 but on Sundays and Saints' days there is full choral service, 
 performed by a regular surpliced choir, and exceedingly well 
 performed, the boys being admirably trained by Mr. Cutler 
 the organist, who was formerly organist of the Church of the
 
 68 
 
 Advent in Boston. At Easter and Christmas the decorations 
 in flowers are often very beautiful, and altogether things are 
 done here with decency and in order. The choral service has 
 only heen established about a year and a half, and it has 
 already become so popular, that even on Saints' days the 
 church is crowded. The internal dimensions of Trinity are 
 as follows : — 
 
 Length of the nave 140 feet, 
 
 of the chancel 30 feet. 
 
 Total internal length of Church 170 feet (this does not of course 
 
 include the Tower.) 
 
 Widthofnave 35 feet. 
 
 of aisle 17| feet each. 
 
 Total width 70 feet. 
 
 Height of nave vaulting 76 feet. 
 
 These dimensions are I think nearly correct, but if I err at 
 all, it is in not making the church large enough, S. Paul's 
 Chapel next claims attention. This is situated opposite Bar- 
 num's Museum and is the oldest church in the city, the 
 present Trinity having been built in 1845, and being the 
 third church which has been built in the same site. S. Paul's 
 jS a Grecian building, and has a tower and spire at the west 
 end, (the real west end I mean, as it has its altar to the east) 
 and a portico at the east end, which faces Broadway. Inter- 
 nally it somewhat resembles (though on a much smaller scale) 
 S. Martin's-in-the-Fields in London, and has the pulpit in 
 the centre right in front of the altar, which however is of 
 good size and made of white marble, with a large corona 
 filled with wax candles hanging in front of it. The body 
 of the church remains much as it was when Washington used 
 to attend service in it, and the pew which he occupied is still 
 pointed out. The organ is an old one built by England, and 
 sent out somewhere about the year 1790 : it is a very good 
 instrument. The service is of the regular Protestant type, 
 iind the choir a quartette, although the clergy both here, and
 
 69 
 
 in all the Trinity Chapels, are men of truly Catholic principles, 
 and will I have no doubt soon bring about a new state of 
 things. There is service only on Sundays and Saint's days 
 except during Lent, at which season there is daily prayer. 
 
 S, John's in Varrick Street is a church of much the same 
 style as S. Paul's, but is much larger, and more ornate in its 
 design. It has lately received the addition of a semicircular 
 apse, which is handsomely decorated in colour and gold. The 
 altar is of marble, inlaid in different colours, and ornamented 
 with alabaster : it is never vested, however, and consequently 
 looks very unanglican, though grand and imposing from the 
 extreme richness of its construction. The seats for the clergy 
 are placed stall wise, and are (together with the pulpit, which 
 stands on the left-hand side,) ornamented in gold and colour, 
 while the rich effect of the whole is enhanced by the beauti- 
 ful marble pavement. Altogether this is by far the best 
 Grecian chancel I ever saw, although it is unfortunately too 
 small to accommodate conveniently a surpliced choir, should 
 the clergy ever succeed in having one : in my sketch I have 
 represented the church as it appeared last Christmas when 
 decorated. The organ stands in the gallery over the door 
 and is a most beautiful instrument, its tone being rich and 
 full beyond almost any modern organ I ever heard, it has the 
 choir organ in front : the services and music are of the same 
 character as at S, Paul's. In connection with the chapel is 
 a Boys' School, from which it is hoped that materials for a 
 choir may be obtained at some future time ; and besides this 
 school, there is also an Industrial and Sunday School num- 
 bering altogether some 1 ,200 children. 
 
 Trinity Chapel in 25 th Street was buUt some two or three 
 years ago, and is a large first pointed church, consisting of a 
 nave without aisles, and an apsidal chancel. I cannot admire 
 the exterior of the building, the long row of single lancet win- 
 dows on each side, together with the absence of any tower or
 
 70 
 
 spire giving it a monotonous and flat appearance. The front 
 facing 25th Street is the best part of the external design, the 
 door- way being very fine, and there is also a good circular win- 
 dow in the gable. Internally, however, it is very striking, and 
 reflects credit on its architect. The nave, about 130 feet long 
 by 40 broad, is lighted on each side by seven tall lancet win- 
 dows, which do not reach within twenty feet of the floor, the 
 space beneath them being relieved by an arched recess under 
 each window. The roof is an open oak one of exceedingly good 
 design, the beams are supported on brackets which rest on 
 clustered shafts springing from variably carved corbels be- 
 tween the windows. The chancel, which is about 36 feet 
 long including the apse, is fitted up with oak stalls, the higher 
 row having carved canopies — and here is one of the greatest 
 mistakes in the building, the canopies run right round the 
 apse, of course in many places having no seats under them. 
 The altar stands in the chord of the apse, and, after the 
 Basilican fashion, has the Bishop's seat directly behind it — it 
 is of Caen stone, very elaborately polychromed. The chan- 
 cel windows are all filled with stained glass, of which however 
 I cannot say I thought much ; they are in that " Munich" 
 style which resembles large transparancies far more than 
 stained windows. The roof between the beams is painted 
 of a light blue, powdered with gold stars, and the beams 
 themselves are enriched with colour, which has been used, 
 though too sparingly, and not altogether with good judgment, 
 throughout the church : the clustered shafts supporting the 
 roof, looking unfortunately like barber's poles. The nave is 
 lit at night by handsome gas standards, and the chancel by a 
 beautiful brass corona. The seats of the nave are of oak, and 
 are low and open, (though most of them are appropriated,) 
 and the floor is laid with encaustic tiles, which I believe 
 came from England. On the right hand side of the chancel 
 arch is the pulpit, a very pretty one, with a conical shaped
 
 71 
 
 sounding board, which, together with the pulpit itself, 
 is richly polychromed. On the opposite side is the font (a 
 queer position for it truly), of Caen stone and with a handsome 
 cover. The organ occupies a chamber, having two arches, 
 one opening into the chancel, and the other into the nave, 
 but it is quite invisible ; it is a large instrument, though 
 somewhat harsh in tone, and awkward to play upon. The 
 choir, consisting of a double quartette, sit on each side of the 
 chancel, and are concealed by abominable red curtains, thus 
 showing that they feel the incongruity of having females as 
 singers in such a place. There is a daily service as at Tri- 
 nity, but on Sundays only, with music, and then, merely, 
 the singing of the Canticles and Hymns, except in the even- 
 ing, when the psalms for the day are generally chanted. 
 The interior of the building is lined entirely with white Caen 
 stone, and having a height of seventy feet, it is very church- 
 like and imposing, and certainly no expense was spared in 
 its erection, 280,000 dollars (about 57,000 /.) having been 
 spent upon it. Grace Church in Broadway is at first sight an 
 imposing-looking church : it is built of a very light coloured 
 stone, almost white, and consists of a nave and transepts, both 
 with aisles and a very small chancel, with a tower and spire 
 at the west end. The general design is good, and so is some 
 of the detail, (the west door especially), but there is a want of 
 solidity and repose about it, which renders it unsatisfactory. 
 The tower, although its outline is good, is terribly thin and 
 poor in its construction, and the spire is meagre to the last 
 degree. The aisles of the nave project formed level with the 
 front of the tower, so the west front has tliree large canopied 
 door-ways ; over the centre is a Catherine wheel window of 
 pretty design. The style of the church and parsonage which 
 adjoins it, and is very pretty, is second pointed of the flam- 
 boyant period. Internally it is I believe very bad, (I never 
 was inside), and the ritual is nil ; the clergyman being of ex-
 
 72 
 
 tremelj Protestant views^ and the music of the most splendid 
 operatic nature. A highly fashionable audience attends this 
 church on Sundays, during the colder months ; in Summer it 
 is shut up. Calvary Church in 4th Avenue is a large cruci- 
 form building of atrocious design (by the same architect as 
 Grace Church), all styles and periods of mediaeval architec- 
 ture being mixed and jumbled up together, S. Thomas' in 
 Broadway is a church of peculiar design, having no aisles or 
 chancel, and a huge broad open wood roof. The effect of its 
 interior is somewhat pleasing (not looking at it in the light of 
 a church), but its exterior is very poor. The most correctly 
 arranged church in the city is the Church of the Holy Innocents 
 in 35th Street. It is a wooden church, and it is hoped merely 
 the fore-runner of a good substantial stone edifice, to be erected 
 at some future period. It consists of a nave, chancel^ organ 
 chamber, vestry and porch, and above the east gable of the nave, 
 there is a small bell tower. The chancel is very well arranged 
 with stalls, and there is an oak rood-screen, bearing a large 
 cross. The altar is of good size, and is elevated six steps above 
 the nave ; it is correctly vested (there being handsome frontals 
 of each colour), and has a cross and two lights. There is a 
 boy choir and Helmore is used, the services being, as far as is 
 compatible with the limited resources at command, choral, 
 and there is, moreover, weekly celebration of the Holy Eucha- 
 rist. The chancel roof is beautifully painted in polychrone, 
 the decoration managed in such a way that it can be removed 
 to tlio new church when it is built. The decorations at 
 Christmas were most beautiful, and amongst other things, 
 consisted of a corona and two enormous standards before the 
 altar, entirely covered with evergreens, and holding about 
 thirty wax candles each, all of which, together with the altar 
 lights, were burning at the midday celebration : at least this 
 was the case on Holy Innocents' Day, and I believe, also on 
 Christmas. All the seats arc free, and the church was built
 
 73 
 
 and is supported entirely by voluntary subscription. I need 
 hardly say that IMr. Elmendorff, the priest, is a truly Catho- 
 lic and hard-working man ; he has also the charge of a Young 
 Ladies' School, conducted somewhat on the same principle as 
 S. Margaret's College at Crieff, in Perthshire. I must not 
 forget to mention a small Missionary Chapel which has been 
 opened on Madison Street, and where an attempt is made at 
 a choral service. It is merely a small room, over a stable, but 
 is very nicely fitted up, and contains a good altar, which is 
 duly vested, and ornamented with a cross and lights. This 
 chapel is the only place in New York ; indeed, I imagine, 
 almost the only place in America, where there is a midnight 
 Christmas celebration ; but in spite of much praiseworthy 
 efibrts, the place is not in good odour, even with the Catholic- 
 minded portion of the community, owing to the line of con- 
 duct pursued by its proprietor, for it is in fact a private cha- 
 pel. The church of the Holy Communion on Sixth Avenue, 
 is a pretty little cruciform church without aisles, and having 
 a tower at the south-west corner of the nave. Internally, 
 its general effect is very pleasing ; the seats are all open, and 
 the altar, which is raised five or six steps above the nave, has 
 a huge canopy over it and a large cross painted behind it. 
 Although this arrangement is very peculiar and odd, yet 
 the general effect is good. 
 
 There is a boy choir, who are however not surpliced, and daily 
 service is performed with weekly communion. The organ 
 occupies a small gallery in the north transept, and is a nice 
 little instrument : opposite to it, in the south transept, is a 
 very fair circular window filled with pretty good stained 
 glass. There is a Sisterhood in connection with the church, 
 and the priest is a hard-working energetic man, though un- 
 fortunately holding and propounding some very peculiar 
 doctrines. I forget to whom the great stronghold of the Low 
 Church party is dedicated, and it does not much signify, as 
 
 10
 
 74 
 
 it is always known as Dr. Tyng's church. I never was 
 inside it, but two facts will illustrate the nature of the ser- 
 vices : the altar stands in the body of the church, and has a 
 circular railing all round, and 800 dollars (160/.) a year 
 are paid for the services of a female singer. None of the 
 Roman churches are such as to merit notice, although a new 
 Cathedral is being built on Fifth Avenue, which will, as far 
 as size and materials are concerned, be very fine. It is being 
 built entirely of white marble, and will be over 300 feet in 
 length, but I fear they have made a mistake in choosing for 
 their architect, the designer of Grace Church, and Calvary. 
 There is one building which struck me very much, and which 
 is in some respect the best ecclesiastical edifice in New York. 
 This is an Unitarian place of worship on Fourth Avenue : it 
 is in the Italian round-arched Gothic style, and is built of red 
 and white bricks, with Caen stone dressings. It is cruciform 
 without aisles, and has a very elegant dome at the intersec- 
 tion of the transepts, composed almost entirely of stained 
 glass. The entrance is through a beautiful triple porch : 
 having polished granite shafts supporting arches profusely 
 decorated with stone carving, while the coloured bricks are 
 arranged in the most pleasing aud judicious manner. Over this 
 door is a very handsome circular window, and the gable is 
 crowned by a largo and beautiful stone cross. There is to 
 be at one angle, a lofty campanile, but this has not yet been 
 commenced. The interior walls are profusely decorated in 
 fresco and polychrome, and the stained glass is really good. 
 The New Yorkers' taste not being sufficiently cultivated to 
 enable them to appreciate the beauty of this building, they 
 have nicknamed it the church of the Holy Zebra. 
 
 There is certainly a considerable difference between the 
 Americans and ourselves in the general tone of church feel- 
 ing, and one thing is very noticeable, namely, the much 
 greater reverence aud attention paid to the Holy Eucharist,
 
 75 
 
 by even the Low Church party in America, than by the same 
 portion of the community with us. They attend more fre- 
 quently, and the Communion Office is invariably accompanied 
 with music, the choir always remaining to sing the Gloria in 
 Excelsis, and the Hymn, which according to the American 
 rubric, is to be sung immediately after the prayers of conse- 
 cration, oblation and invocation ; you will, moreover, see per- 
 sons, who would leave the church, were the priest to enter the 
 pulpit in a surplice, or were the service intoned, kneeling 
 before an altar of the richest marble, and afterwards joining 
 heartily in the singing of the Gloria. In general, too, they 
 will stand any amount of " preaching to" without taking 
 offence : I heard a very strong sermon on the duty of fasting, 
 &c., in S. John's, where the congregation is decidedly of Low 
 Church inclinations : but they listened most attentively, and I 
 have no doubt many acted upon the admonition. The fact 
 is, the great tide of the Catholic movement has only just 
 reached America, and the devoted energy with which many 
 of the clergy have thrown themselves into the work, cannot 
 fail to produce great and glorious results. There is, of 
 course, the mass yet to be stirred and put in the right way, 
 but the root of evil is not so deep down in the soil, as it 
 was in England : few American churchmen, of whatever 
 party they may call themselves, deny such doctrines, as 
 the Apostolic Succession, and Baptismal Regeneration ; 
 moreover, there is not that insane " no popery" feeling to 
 struggle against, at least not to anything like so great an 
 extent as with us. One of the great misfortunes of the 
 American church is her mutilated office book, the state of 
 which most of the clergy deeply deplore. The Communion 
 Office indeed has the prayers of oblation and invocation, and 
 in that particular perhaps may be preferred to the English 
 office, though the prayers are inserted after instead of before 
 the consecration, therein following the example of the Scot-
 
 76 
 
 tish rite. There are also several useful offices which we lack, 
 such as that for the " Institution of Ministers," (in which by 
 the way the altar is several times called an Altar) and also for 
 the consecration of Churches and Burial grounds. Among the 
 mutilations most to be regretted are, the non-insertion of the 
 Athanasian Creed, and of the absolution in the " Visitation of 
 the Sick," as also the omission of the Magnificat, for which 
 and the Nunc Dimittis, are substituted two Psalms. If, 
 however, the rubrics which countenance, and indeed, order 
 ritualism, are omitted, there is on the other hand no rule 
 which can interfere with the highest order of ceremonial, and 
 the priest is equally at liberty to officiate in a dress-coat or 
 the most magnificently embroidered chasuble and alb, or 
 cope. On the whole, the future prospect of this great branch 
 of the Anglican Church is a bright one, and the movement 
 is more likely to succeed from its having commenced in the 
 most influential parish in the country — the example of Trinity 
 Church, is sure to be followed sooner or later. The church 
 is represented in the Press of New York by three papers, 
 nearly answering to the London* "Union," "Guardian" and 
 " Kecord." The " New York Churchman" and the " Church 
 Journal," representing respectively the "Union" and "Guar- 
 dian," while the " Eecord" finds a counterpart in the " Pro- 
 testant Churchman." 
 
 • At the time this was written, the Union was the sole organ of the so 
 called " Ritualists," who are now represented by half a dozen weekly journal)?, 
 at the least.
 
 LETTEE XI. 
 
 New York, 
 Judging from some remarks in your last letter, you seem 
 to have conceived some very erroneous ideas on the subject 
 of American society ; I shall therefore give you a brief state- 
 ment of my own impressions on that head. I think the Ame- 
 ricans have been hardly dealt with by many writers, though 
 it is true they are themselves partly to blame, for (like Topsy) 
 they make capital of their own shortcomings. People who 
 merely travel in steam-boats, and put up at great hotels, 
 see about as much of American Society, as they would of 
 that of London or Edinburgh, did they spend their whole 
 time, travelling backwards and forwards on a penny Thames 
 Steamer, or on the Portobello Railway. The truth is, that 
 much misrepresentation, or (perhaps I should say) misappre- 
 hension, has arisen, from the fact that there are hundreds of 
 people in this country, whose sole claim to the title of 
 " gentleman," is founded on a lavish expenditure of money ; 
 but whose language, manners, and general tone of thought 
 and feeling, forbid their being recognized as such, by any 
 really well-bred American. These are the people you gene- 
 rally meet at the hotels, and on the steamers. They spit, 
 and chew tobacco, behave in a disgusting way at table, and 
 display their independence generally ; the women, often
 
 78 ' 
 
 being as bad as the men, (save in the matter of chewing.) At 
 home we do not come in contact with persons of this class, 
 and are therefore apt to imagine, that this lack of refinement 
 is confined to America, and that it does not exist with us. 
 Republicanism is, (in my opinion) the root of the mischief ; 
 for when distinctions of rank are not recognized, men are apt 
 to assume positions for which they are wholly unsuited, and 
 many who might otherwise command esteem and respect, 
 become objects of derision, to those who perceive the incon- 
 gruity between themselves and their station. There are 
 objectionable people in the best American society, as with us, 
 and no American I ever met, denied this ; but to represent 
 their society as totally vulgarized and unintellectual, is very 
 unfair, and only shows that those who do so, have never been 
 in society in the United States. Some of the pleasantest, 
 most lady-like, as well as accomplished women I ever met, 
 were members of old New York families : for, notwithstand- 
 ing their democratic theory, they are proud ; and often justly, 
 of their descent, and keep themselves wholly aloof from the 
 money society of the city. There indeed, impertinent vulga- 
 rity, and coarseness may be seen strutting in all the impor- 
 tance of that pride which has its centre in the pocket. The 
 New Yorkers are, as a rule, most hospitable, and almost kill 
 you with kindness, after having succeeded in making you 
 their guest.* 
 
 The ladies, as a rule, dress far more elaborately in the 
 streets than with us, and make up for the excess in that 
 direction by frequently appearing at large evening parties 
 in high dresses and long sleeves, while the gentlemen on such 
 occasions wear frock-coats, quite as often as dress-coats. !• 
 have often been amused at the cool impudence of the women 
 
 •During my residence in New York, I lived, as indeed more than half 
 the people do, in a boarding house : whole families often preferring this most 
 uucomfortable manner of living to the trouble of keeping house. 
 
 L^.
 
 79 
 
 one sometimes meets in omnibuses and cars, and who, if the 
 car is full, stand and stare you in the face till you give up 
 your seat. I remember a woman getting into a Broadway 
 omnibus, notwithstanding my assurance that it was quite full, 
 and as soon as she had succeeded in squeezing herself in, she 
 handed me in her fare, saying at the same time, " I guess 
 you'd better pay ray fare." I did so, smashing my hat 
 against the roof, in the process, and when I turned round, 
 beheld the fair one comfortably ensconced in my seat. But 
 enough of New York for the present. I find that I shall be 
 obliged to start on my visit to Niagara, earlier than I intend- 
 ed. I shall therefore take this letter with me, and finish it 
 
 there. Niagara. We left New York on the loth June, 
 
 at six in the evening, and by half past seven were passing the 
 " Palisades," a series of basaltic rocks on the west side of the 
 river. Beautiful villas and country houses are scattered over 
 the right bank of the river, to a considerable distance above 
 New York ; and the hills on each side, though scarcely merit- 
 ing the appellation "lofty," are of considerable height and well 
 wooded. The Hudson river railway skirts the shore, through- 
 out its whole distance; aud passes through several towns and 
 villages, the names of a few of which I may mention. At the 
 head of Manhattan Island is the town of Spuy ton-Devil, beyond 
 it Youkers, and a little farther on Peekskill, Tarrytown, and 
 Ponghkeepsic : a little above the last named place, on the 
 opposite shore of the river, is West Point. Here the scenery 
 is truly magnificent, although, (owing to our passing at 
 night) our view was by no means so satisfactory as I could 
 have wished. The hills here, attain a height of 3,000 feet, 
 and rise in bold, rugged precipices almost directly from the 
 river, which winds in amongst them, seeming at times to be 
 lost, until, on turning a lofty promontory, you see it again 
 stretching away before you. I shall never forget my moon- 
 light view of this noble river ; I think it looked almost gran-
 
 80 
 
 der than in day -light, A profound stillness, broken only by 
 the monotonous beat of the paddles, or by the rumbling of a 
 passing train, (which looks like a huge glow-worm creeping 
 along the base of the dark mountains overshadowing the 
 water), adds impressiveness to the scene, which would cer- 
 tainly not harmonize so well with the noise and racket, which 
 goes on in these boats during the day-time. I did not retire 
 until 2 o'clock, about which hour we passed Newbourgh^ with 
 the Catskill mountains in the distance ; and had just got 
 into a sound slumber, when I was awakened by a most ap- 
 palling noise. My state-room being close to the boilers, I 
 at once conjured up awful visions of an impending explosion, 
 but soon discovered that the noise proceeded from the steam 
 whistle, which was kept blowing at intervals on account of 
 the thick fog which had set in. Sleep was out of the ques- 
 tion, and there was nothing for it but to get up again, which 
 I did and went into the saloon, where I found a temporary 
 resting place on one of the sofas. After remaining there for 
 some hours in a miserable condition between sleeping and 
 waking, I was shaken wide awake by one of the stewards, 
 who informed me that we were close to Albany ; and I 
 accordingly hurried into my state-room to perform my morn- 
 ing ablutions before appearing in civilized society. We were 
 soon alongside the wharf, and, on landing, I at once engaged 
 a coach and drove to the station of the New York Central 
 Railway. The train for Niagara, not starting till 1 ] , and it 
 then being only 8 o'clock, I adjourned to the Delavan House, 
 an hotel close to the station, there to enjoy a comfortable 
 breakfast. This is a large and handsome hotel, and at that 
 time displayed a peculiarity in employing female waiters at 
 table, though I cannot think that it was an improvement on 
 the ordinary system. These fair damsels, all wore dresses 
 of a similar pattern, and neat little caps and aprons, and 
 were altogether pleasing to look upon, but not very useful as
 
 81 
 
 waiters, the enormous hoops which they all wore being a 
 decided hindrance to the freedom and rapidity of their 
 motions. After breakfast we strolled about near the station, 
 until it was time to take our seats, and at 11 punctually we 
 started, having previously paid our fare and marvelled at its 
 smallness: five dollars, about £.1 for a journey of 250 miles, 
 and by an express train ; but travelling is cheaper in every 
 way in America than in Europe. As I have already men- 
 tioned, the railroad tracks almost always run up the centre 
 of the streets, and in this case the street was a very narrow 
 one ; so much so, as to render the position of any ordinary 
 vehicle we might meet or overtake, somewhat impleasant. It 
 is true the bell is rung continuously, and the speed is not 
 over ten miles an hour, while passing through a street, but 
 still it looks very dangerous ; and indeed in New York and 
 the larger cities, the locomotives are no longer admitted, but 
 are left outside the town ; the train being then divided, and 
 each car drawn separately through the streets by horses : but 
 the great idea here, is that every one should look after him- 
 self. Some parts of the country through which we passed 
 were very pretty, though not strikingly beautiful, except at 
 one point, nearly half way to Niagara, where the railway 
 passed through a deep-wooded glen, skirting a clear rocky 
 stream, and where several lovely glimpses were every now 
 and then to be had. At Utica we stopped half an hour for 
 limch, at least so the conductor told us, though where to get 
 lunch was a problem, difficult of solution ; the station being a 
 mere shed, and the only eatables visible being the contents 
 of a little stall, such as you see at the corners of the streets, 
 kept by an old woman. Certainly, they are many degrees 
 behind us in the matter of station accommodation. After pass- 
 ing " Rome," "Syracuse," and a number of other small towns 
 bearing great names, we reached Eochester at about 6 o'clock. 
 This is now a thriving and populous city, though twenty 
 
 11
 
 82 
 
 years ago it was a mere village ; it is situated close to the 
 Falls of the Genesee river, the water-power of which it has 
 turned into dollars and cents, with great success. We crossed 
 the river close to the Falls, and had a pretty good view of 
 them : and were they not within fifty miles of the giant 
 cataract, they would doubtless have obtained more notoriety 
 than they now possess. The cascade is indeed very fine, and 
 the fall of water considerable both in quantity and height, 
 but the beauty of the scene is marred by the numerous fac- 
 tories and mills which surround the spot. At Rochester we 
 changed cars for Niagara, where we were due at 9 o'clock. 
 And now, I began to recall all my preconceived notions of 
 the mighty wonder, (whose fame alone has been sufficient to 
 bring many across the wide Atlantic ;) and endeavoured to 
 mould them into some definite shape. I even began to listen 
 at every station for the roar, expecting to hear it at least 
 twenty .miles off. The last station at which we were to stop 
 was Lockporfc, seventeen miles from Niagara, and as I made 
 sure of hearing the Falls at this point, I, on nearing the 
 station, put my head out of the window to listen. Instead, 
 however, of receiving any remarkable impression through the 
 medium of my auditory nerves, I was astounded to see at a 
 distance of perhaps a mile a-head, and right on the track, 
 a tremendous fire, and heard most distinctly, instead of the 
 roar of water, the crackling of the flames, which shot upwards 
 in showers of sparks. At this moment the train stopped 
 and the mystery was soon explained. The Lockport station 
 was in a blaze, and to pass it was impossible, at least so said 
 the conductor. After waiting two hours, and finding the 
 fire gain strength instead of subsiding (a long shed filled 
 with fuel having ignited) they determined to make a rush, 
 and get past, and we fortunately succeeded in leaving the fije 
 in our rear. This was not accomplished without blistering 
 the paint, and cracking some of the windows of the cars, but
 
 83 
 
 most thankful we were to find ourselves again in motion, as 
 we had firmly made up our minds to sleep in the cars all 
 night. At about 1 1 o'clock we reached the Suspension Bridge, 
 two miles below the Falls, and the moment the train stopped, 
 I popped out my head to listen. Not a sound could I hear, 
 and I began to think Niagara must have run dry ; but the 
 truth is, that unless the wind be blowing in a favourable 
 direction, the sound is not audible at any very great distance. 
 Having put down those who were bound for the Canada side, 
 we started off again for the village of the Falls, and now I 
 began to keep my eyes on the alert. The night was moon- 
 light, though not very clear, and as we rattled along close to 
 the edge of the ravine through which Niagara flows after its 
 plunge, I could catch stray ghmpses through the trees, of a 
 dazzling white mass, right ahead, and could feel the cool 
 spray blown upon my face. Presently we left the bank, and 
 soon stopped in the middle of a smart little town. On emerg- 
 ing from the cars, I was too much engaged with my luggage 
 to listen for the Falls, and getting into an omnibus, we were 
 deposited, in a few seconds, at the Cataract House, where a 
 comfortable supper at once claimed our attention. While 
 engaged in feeding the inner man, we could distinctly hear 
 the sound of rushing waters. This was not the noise of the 
 Falls, however, but of the rapids ; the only indications of the 
 near presence of the thundering cataract being a continuous 
 jar and rattle of the windows. On entering my bed-room, 
 I at once opened the window, and to my delight found that 
 it looked over the rapids. Right before me, glistening in the 
 clear moonlight was the rushing, tumbling foaming mass of 
 waters, bounded on the opposite side by the dark woods of 
 Goat Island, and lost to view behind the houses which cluster 
 round the end of the bridge leading to the island, but I knew 
 that although I did not see the fall, I was looking on those 
 very waters which would, ere I could even walk across my
 
 84 
 
 room, have plunged into the abyss of the American Fall 
 which lay not 300 yards beyond. Rising above the houses 
 was a thick mist, through which the trees on the Canada side 
 could be dimly seen, and while the roar and dash of the 
 rapids and the deeper boom of the smaller and nearer cataract 
 filled the air, the whole atmosphere, the ground itself, seemed 
 to tremble and vibrate from some other and greater cause — 
 the voice of the Great Horse Shoe Fall, whose position was 
 indicated by clouds of vapour floating upwards, over the 
 trees of Goat Island. I was more impressed, more awestruck 
 I may almost say, with this sound, (though it was not what I 
 expected), than I could have been by the deafening roar and 
 crash, which I had fancied was produced by the Fall. The 
 voice of Niagara is unlike any thing I ever heard ; its own 
 beautiful Indian name, which means " Thundering water," 
 conveys in its grand simplicity a more definite idea than 
 could be given by the most elaborate description. ~ As in all 
 probability you will never see Niagara, you may gain some 
 faint notion of the character of the sound, though not of its 
 power and vastness, by imagining the noise of the greatest 
 waterfall you ever heard, combined with the notes of 1000 
 thirty-two feet organ pedal pipes. There is no actual din ; 
 you can converse in a whisper on the edge of the great fall, 
 but there is a deep voice at which earth and air alike trem- 
 ble. I remained looking out upon the rapids nearly an 
 hour, and then retired to bed, being obliged first to insert 
 pieces of paper between the window sashes in order to stop 
 the jarring.
 
 LETTER XII. 
 
 Niagara. 
 
 My last letter concluded with our arrival here, and every day 
 adds to our admiration of its wonders. 
 
 Early the following morning I walked down to the bridge, 
 which spans the rapids on the American side of Goat Island, 
 intending to cross over and take my first view of the Falls. 
 I stood on this bridge to watch the waters as they dashed 
 madly forward to their final leap, and quitted it with reluc- 
 tance, for a grander or more beautiful sight I never saw. 
 To the left^ and looking up the river, you see the vast mass of 
 waters tumbling down towards you, as though they would 
 engulph the bridge and sweep it over the fall, indeed its 
 shaking and trembling seems to warrant such a fear, though 
 it is in reality quite secure. Looking down on the other 
 side, the entire mass of foaming and boiling water disap- 
 pears suddenly at a distance of 300 yards into an abyss 
 from which rises up the white misty cloud I have already 
 mentioned. This is the American Fall. Passing on, I 
 reached a small islet, separated by a narrow channel from 
 Goat Island, and having on it a mill, and a toll house. At 
 the latter I paid the regular fee of 25 cents, (1 shilling) 
 which is levied on every one on his first visit, and entitles 
 him to go and come, afterwards without any charge. Then 
 crossing another small bridge, I found myself on Goat Island.
 
 86 
 
 Before giving you an account of my first view of the Falls, 
 I shall try to convey to you some idea of the geographical 
 features of the locality, in which I trust my rough plan will 
 assist you. The Niagara river, as perhaps you know, com- 
 mences a few miles below Buffalo, which is situated on Lake 
 Erie, close to the point at which the river leaves it. It is 
 there about half a mile wide, and continues about the same 
 width until near Grand Island, situated about 20 miles from 
 Buffalo, below which point it widens out to near a mile. Just 
 below Grrand Island the rapids commence, and flow on in one 
 broad volume until they reach the head of Goat Island, 
 and here they separate, the narrower channel being on the 
 American side, and ending in the American Fall, while the 
 broad expanse of waters on the Canadian side pours over the 
 great " Horse Shoe" or Canadian Fall, fully nine-tenths of 
 the entire volume of water in the river passing over this fall. 
 The course of the river after passing the falls is at right angles 
 to that of the rapids above, and the deep gorge through 
 which it flows is comparatively narrow. The Horse Shoe Fall 
 occupies its upper end, the American Fall pouring over the 
 side, at right angles with the great faU, and directly facing 
 the Canadian side. On the occasion of my first visit I made 
 my way first to the edge of the American FaU. A narrow 
 pathway led through the thick woods to the top of a steep 
 bank, in which steps were cut. Descending these and crossing 
 a light wooden bridge, I found myself on a small islet, named 
 Luna Island, and at the very verge of the FaU. The view 
 down the river is very beautiful, but little of the Fall 
 itself can be seen ; while the Horse Shoe Fall is quite invi- 
 sible. After remaining on Luna Island half an hour or so, I 
 clambered up the steep path again, and walking a few yards 
 along a broad carriage drive, skirting the edge of the preci- 
 pice, came upon a grassy mound on which were three or four 
 persons, occupying a rough seat and gazing with silent awo
 
 87 
 
 and wonder at the scene before them, the most mighty 
 cataract in the world. How can I hope to describe it — who 
 can give any idea of that sea of bright emerald green waves, 
 rolliDg ceaselessly down into the mist and clouds, which 
 always envelope the base of the fall ? There is no rush and 
 plunge, apparently ; to me it seemed to roll over more like 
 the waves of the sea, than any waterfall. The water too on 
 the edge of the fall, is intensely green beyond any thing I 
 ever saw, and it is only when about to lose itself in the clouds 
 of mist and vapour which rise up high into the air, that 
 streaks of white become visible, on its surface. This appear- 
 ance is not observable at the extremity of the fall, for there 
 the water is shallow ; it is near the centre of the semicircle, 
 where the depth of water on the edge of the fall is twenty 
 feet, that this vivid green colour appears. But who thinks 
 of feet and inches, and gallons of water and such things 
 when gazing on this stupendous cataract ? The water below 
 the fall when it first emerges from the mist, is of a creamy 
 whiteness, and circles round and round in slow eddies, as 
 though stunned by the plunge, gradually however breaking 
 into waves which hurry forward with rapidly increasing 
 velocity until at the suspension bridge, the water is rushing 
 along at a rate of some thirty miles an hour. Near the fall, 
 however, it is comparatively still water ; sufficiently so, to 
 permit of boats crossing to the Canada side. A small steamer 
 conveys persons desirous of viewing the fall at close quarters, 
 from the landing at the foot of the American Fall close up to 
 the Horse Shoe. After enjoying the view for some time, I 
 proceeded a short distance further along the diive, to another 
 halting place, from which a path led down to Terrapin Tower, 
 situated on the eastern edge of the Horse Shoe. The tower 
 is built on a rock, round which the boiling waters pour with 
 resistless fury, making tower and rock tremble, and suggest- 
 ing the strong probability of a sudden descent of both into
 
 the abyss. I enjoyed the spectacle from the top of the build- 
 ing as much as was possible in company with five or six 
 exceedingly Yankeefied Yankees, but as I intended to re-visit 
 this spot, did not then stay very long, but returned to the 
 road and continued my walk entirely round Goat Island, 
 passing on my way three pretty little wooded islets close to 
 the shore (of Goat Island), among which the torrent poured 
 in a series of beautiful little cascades. I reached the hotel in 
 time for dinner, at about 2 o'clock ; and was much amused 
 during the progress of the meal by the military manner 
 in which the waiters performed their duties, under the com- 
 mand of the head waiter, a most immaculate swell, though a 
 nigger, and who had drilled his corps to a state of perfect 
 subordination. After dinner I engaged a carriage, and drove 
 over to the Canada side, crossing the suspension bridge. On 
 our way up from the bridge we passed the Clifton House, a 
 fine large hotel, from which there is a beautiful view of both 
 falls. It stands about half a mile below the Horse Shoe, and 
 immediately opposite the American Fall, the whole range of 
 falls extending over nearly four-fifths of a mile. Close to 
 the edge of the Horse Shoe, there is a projecting rock, known 
 as " Table rock" a portion of which has fallen, and the 
 remainder is so cracked as to render its fall a matter of daily 
 expectation. There are here a number of little shops, at which 
 Indian work is sold, and here also those who wish it, are pro- 
 vided with waterproof dresses, in which they can go a short 
 way behind the fall. I contented myself with going down the 
 stairs which are cut in the rocks, and gazing at the Fall from 
 below. This is by far the finest view, and notwithstanding 
 the discomfort, occasioned by the dripping of water from the 
 rocks above, I stood here for nearly an hour. On returning, 
 I had to pass one place where a small cascade was pouring 
 down right into the path, and not caring to be wet through, 
 I made a run to get past when my foot slipped and down I
 
 89 
 
 came, and for a moment I feared that I was gone. Fortu- 
 nately the path was wide at that point, and I sustained no 
 injury, further than a torn coat, and a few slight bruises. On 
 regaining the top, I started off for the American side, and 
 reached my hotel in time for tea. Next day, I spent the 
 whole morning on Goat Island, and in the afternoon went 
 across by the ferry boat to the Canada side. The boats 
 start from the foot of the rocks close to the American Fall, 
 and are reached by an inclined plane, which consists of a 
 tube, (exceedingly " Slantindicular") enclosing a railroad, 
 and a staircase. You pay your fare in a house at the top, 
 and can then, (if you wish) ride down upon a sort of truck, 
 which is let down by ropes ; many people, however, dreading 
 the consequences of a breakage, prefer trusting to their own 
 legs. Indeed, if the rope did break, nothing could save the 
 occupants of the little car from being shot down into the 
 water, or being dashed to pieces on the rocks, below. Des- 
 cending by this railway I entered a boat and was ferried 
 over, enjoying on the way a most splendid view of the falls. 
 I spent but a short time on the Canada side and returned the 
 same way. I found the little steamer ready to make her 
 exciting trip up to the Horse Shoe ; and accordingly went on 
 board, and donned the waterproof garments necessary for the 
 occasion. But I saw little, for the mist so covered my spec- 
 tacles, that they became hindrances instead of aids to vision, 
 and the removal of them left me in but a sorry plight for 
 making observations. The little vessel struggled up to within 
 fifty yards of the great Fall, and then turning round shot 
 down the stream with terrific speed, and at length landed us 
 safely at the foot of the stairs. 
 
 At night I went out to see Niagara by moonlight. The 
 moon did not rise till past 10, and it was therefore nearly 1 1 
 before I went on Goat Island ; there were, however, several 
 parties bent on the same errand- I found that moonlight 
 
 32
 
 90 
 
 greatly enhanced the beauty of the scene, and was specially 
 delighted with a lovely lunar rainbow, which was visible 
 through the mist and vapour which rose from the American 
 Fall ; (the position of the Horse Shoe Fall being unfavoura- 
 ble for the observance of one there.) On the following day 
 I drove to Greneral Brock's Monument, and visited the whirl- 
 pool. Our drive lay through a well-wooded county, and ran 
 along the edge of the Niagara gorge. The whirlpool is about 
 three miles below the suspension bridge, and is visited, not so 
 much for its own sake, as for the grandeur of the deep wooded 
 glen through which the river rushes. There are walks, and 
 stairs cut through the rocks, so that the descent to the water's 
 edge is easy, and the grandeur of the scene well re-pays a visit. 
 After a pleasant drive of eight miles, we suddenly emerged 
 from the woods and found ourselves on the summit of a long 
 chain of hills, while before us stretched a level plan bounded 
 by the vast expense of Lake Ontario. On the left lay the 
 outlet of the Niagara gorge, from which issued the now 
 calm, and unruffled waters of the river, winding through 
 the plain to the ocean-like Ontario ; while clustered on its 
 opposite banks laj' the towns of Lewiston, and Queenstown, 
 to the former of which we now descended. After taking 
 luncheon, at a somewhat primitive hotel, we ascended the 
 river and crossed it hy means of a very pretty suspension 
 bridge, just at the entrance of the gorge, and in a few minutes 
 entered the grounds which surround the monument. The 
 Btructure consists of a Corinthian column, with a statue 
 on the top, and is quite new, having only lately replaced the 
 original monument, which was destroyed by some ill condi- 
 tioned individual of Guy Fawkes tendencies. The view from ' 
 the top is very fine, and extends for many miles over a beau- 
 tifully wooded country, and far out on the vast blue surface 
 of Outario. Looking towards Niagara, the position of the 
 Falls was pointed out by the white cloud of vapour rising
 
 91 
 
 high into the air, and on listening I distinctly heard their 
 sound, the wind being in a favourable direction. We return- 
 ed to our hotel by the road on the Canadian side, and crossed 
 the river, at the upper suspension bridge. On the Monday 
 following I made an expedition to Buifalo, a railway ride of 
 twenty-two miles. This city is one of the most extraordinary 
 instances of the rapid growth of American towns with which I 
 am acquainted : the population in 1 830 was about 1 2,000, and 
 now it is nearly 120,000. The town is very well built, the 
 principal thoroughfare, Main Street, being a wide and hand- 
 some street, and ascending with a gentle rise from the wharfs, 
 which line the shoi-e of Lake Erie. My stay in Buffalo being 
 limited to a few hours, I was unable to hunt up any of the 
 Anglican Churches, of which there are several, and was 
 obliged to content myself with a survey of the Roman Cathe- 
 dral. This is decidedly one of the best churches I saw in my 
 tour; it is built of dark gray stone, in the early second pointed 
 style, and consists of nave, transepts and small chancel, all 
 with aisles. The roofs are of open timber, aud are adorned 
 with polychrome. There is a great deal of stained glass, and 
 some of it is very fair, though the style of drawing and 
 colouring is not very correct. I succeeded in obtaining 
 permission to try the organ, and having been told that it was 
 built in Buffalo by an almost self-tauglit workman, was amazed 
 to find a very large, and fine toned instrument, equalling 
 indeed in both respects many organs by first-rate English 
 builders. Before leaving for Niagara, I took a stroll along 
 the wharfs and went on board one of the Lake Steamers, the 
 "Western Metropolis" was (I think) her name, and in 
 beauty of model and internal decorations, she surpassed any 
 of the American Steamers I had seen. The saloon was fitted 
 np with perfect taste, and contained a handsome piano, while 
 pier glasses and marble slabs, (having on them vases full of 
 flowers,) were scattered about in profusion. On the lower
 
 .92 
 
 deck, just opposite tlie entrance gangway, there was a marble 
 basin filled with gold fish, and with a pretty little fountain 
 playing in the centre. The docks presented quite a busy 
 scene, and contained numbers of sailing vessels of all sizes, 
 as well as a great many large screw steamers. While at tea 
 in the evening, (after my return to Niagara), I witnessed a 
 sample of the highly polished manners which characterize 
 many of the people one meets at these hotels. The offender 
 was a very pretty girl, whose appearance was decidedly lady- 
 like, till she began her assault upon the viands — and then 
 ensued, such cramming and stufiing ! such a display of sword 
 exercise ! I trembled for her mouth, fully expecting to see it 
 desperately wounded by the continuous dives which her knife 
 made into its recesses. The said knife was too much occupied, 
 in shovelling up the contents of her plate, to be spared for 
 any operations on the bread, a large slice of which was vigor- 
 ously assaulted by her teeth, and a huge semi-circular bite 
 taken right out of the centre.
 
 LETTEE XIII. 
 
 New Yobk. 
 
 You will be surprised to see from my date, that I have 
 returned hither so soon ; but I was obliged to curtail my 
 Canadian tour, and as my time was limited, and I wished to 
 see as much as possible, I really had not leisure to write to 
 you. To make amends, however, for my silence, I shall now 
 give you an account of my proceedings since I left Niagara. 
 I should have been glad to have remained there much longer, 
 for I was never tired of watching its ever changing aspects, 
 or of listening to its ceaseless roar. We started on the 22nd 
 of June, by train for Lake Ontario. I had taken through 
 tickets, which carried us by train to Lewiston, thence by 
 steamer to Montreal, and thence by way of Lakes Champlain 
 and George to Saratoga. I forget what was the exact price 
 of the tickets, but I know it was exceedingly moderate. 
 The railway from Niagara to Lewiston, is carried along the 
 extreme verge of the precipice, the cars seeming at times 
 almost to overhang the torrent, which, 200 feet below, rushes 
 foaming along at a speed greater than that of the train. 
 It certainly looks dangerous, and once or twice loose stones 
 and gravel, shaken by the motion of the train, from under- 
 neath the sleepers, went rolling down the bank into the river. 
 I must confess I was glad when our train reached its destin.-
 
 •94 
 
 atfon, and we stood on the deck of the "Ontario" steamer; a 
 large vessel, similar to the one I had seen at Buffalo, though 
 not so richly decorated. I procured a comfortable state 
 room, near the stern^ and at 3 o'clock afternoon we started, 
 and after steaming about four miles down the" Niagara 
 river, the wooded shores on each side abruptly receded, and 
 we were on Lake Ontario. As there was nothing to attract 
 notice on shore, seeing that it was almost out of sight on the 
 American side, and of course far below the horizon on the 
 Canadian, we were glad to find our boat a most comfortable 
 one, and our company agreeable. There was a capital piano 
 in the saloon, and in the evening we had music. About 
 mid-night we reached Oswego, a small town on the American 
 side, and lay there till morning, my slumbers coming to an 
 end in time only to allow me to see the light-house at the 
 entrance of the harbour, as we rapidly steamed away. To- 
 wards the afternoon the land became visible on both sides, 
 and soon we saw before us on the left the bright tin covered 
 roofs and domes of Kingston. 1 was very much struck 
 with the appearance of the town, the bright tin which is 
 used in most Canadian towns to cover the roofs and domes 
 of the public buildings giving a very lively and peculiar 
 aspect to the whole city. The place, however, seemed very 
 deserted, but few people were on the wharfs, when we stopped, 
 and the number of half-finished buildings bespoke a great 
 need of the infusion of a little Yankee-go-ahead spirit. 
 Kingston stands at the entrance of the S. Lawrence, and soon 
 after passing it we came to that part of the river, known as 
 the " Lake of the Thousand Islands." I had been so stupid 
 as to expect hills and rocks, and grandeur generally, in the 
 far-famed S. Lawrence, and I am afraid I did not rightly 
 appreciate the softer though undeniable beauties of the 
 Thousand Islands. Late in the evening we reached Ogdens- 
 burg, where we we to remain till morning, to be then trans-
 
 95 
 
 ferred to a smaller steamer, in which to descend the rapids. 
 This was, to me, by far the most interesting part of our 
 voyage, and is altogether quite an exciting affair. Having 
 been duly transferred bag and baggage into the other boat, 
 we started at 9 o'clock, and in about an hour reached the 
 first and by far the mildest rapid. Indeed the only indica- 
 tions of the existence of a rapid were the short waves which 
 covered the surface of the water, and a few patches of white 
 foam : the steam, however, was shut off and we were carried 
 down by the current. This was quite a short rapid, and I 
 began again to feel disappointment, until we entered the 
 " Long Sault" rapids. Here we were carried along at a 
 tremendous rate, the water foaming and lashing against the 
 side of the vessel, making her reel over every now and then. 
 After passing the "Long Sault," there came an interval of 
 quiet waters, and then a long line of foam, and breakers a-head 
 announced our approach to the " Cascade Rapid." This 
 though not extending above a mile in length, (whereas "Long 
 Sault" is above ten miles long) is a still fiercer rapid than its 
 predecessor, and the bow of the boat seemed sometimes about 
 to plunge right under water, whilst clouds of spray dashed 
 over the vessel. Beyond this the river expands into a lake 
 about ten or twelve miles long and four or five broad, and 
 after passing through this, we soon came within sight of the 
 last and most dangerous rapid, that of Lachine. The river 
 here is fully a mile broad, but only one little passage exists 
 through which the steamers can pass ; the channel not being 
 above 1 50 feet wide, and hemmed 'in on each side by a flat 
 topped rock rising some half dozen feet above the surface, 
 and over which the waves foam in breakers, while between 
 them the torrent rushes with fearful velocity. The most 
 delicate steering is required at this point, and the boat bore 
 down at a tremendous speed with her bow pointing directly 
 into one of the rocks, till when within twenty or thirty feet,
 
 96 
 
 the current caught her and with a heavy lurch she surged 
 through the narrow opening, just grazing the rocks at either 
 side as she passed. Having recovered from the state of 
 excitement produced by this dangerous bit of navigation, we 
 observed, at a distance of a few miles a-head, what looked like 
 a series of huge stepping stones stretching across the river, 
 two or three couples of them being joined by long black 
 objects — this was the unfinished Yictoria Bridge, and beyond 
 it appeared the domes and spires of Montreal, behind which 
 rose up a low flat topped hill. In the course of half an hour 
 we reached the bridge, and passing under the central span, 
 on which the tube was already placed, we quickly arrived at 
 our wharf. Montreal looks exceedingly well from the river, 
 and is a refreshing change after the sameness which charac- 
 terizes the greater number of American cities, resembling, as 
 it does, an European continental town. This idea is favoured 
 moreover by the predominance of the French Roman Cathe- 
 dral, a huge building with two square towers, which, although 
 of abominable design, from its great size and the cathedral- 
 like character given by its lofty towers, is a decided ornament 
 in a distinct view of the city. Tin roofs and domes abound 
 as at Kingston, and so, I found on landing, did mud. Such 
 a vile road as that along which we drove to our hotel was 
 never seen. Everything here betokens a very odd mixture of 
 French and English ; some of the streets having French, and 
 some, English names written up, while others have both. In 
 the evening I walked out, and went towards the French Cathe- 
 dral, situated at one side of an open square. The street in 
 which the hotel was, reminded me somewhat of Aberdeen, 
 the stone employed being of a grey colour, very much like 
 granite. The Cathedral was closed, so, after deciding in my 
 own mind that it was one of the ugliest of buildings, 1 strolled 
 along N otre JJame Street, passing a large and rather hand- 
 some public building on the left, opposite to which was an
 
 97 
 
 open space extending down to the water. In the middle of 
 this stood a miserable dilapidated column, apparently a 
 monument to some one, whose memory has not continued to 
 claim respect or admiration from the people of Montreal ; on 
 enquiry, I was sorry to find that the thing was intended as a 
 monument to Nelson ! The following day I joined a party 
 of Americans, (whose acquaintance I had made on board the 
 " Ontario,") in a drive round the " Mountain," as they call 
 the hill behind the city. The view from parts of the road 
 was very pretty, especially that towards the city : on our way 
 we passed a sad record of one of the dreadful fires by which 
 the town has been of late so frequently devasted, the ruins 
 of a fine large Roman Church, S. Jacque's. It was only just 
 finished, and the fire was occasioned by an accident happen- 
 ing to the Sanctuary Lamp, the altar and all its costly fittings 
 and vestments being totally destroyed. The Anglican Cathe- 
 dral had not long before met with a similar fate, though the 
 circumstance is hardly to be regretted, as the building which 
 was very poor, is now replaced by one of the best churches 
 on the American continent. I was unfortunately not able 
 to procure access to the interior, but its exterior gave pro- 
 mise of considerable beauty, and although of comparatively 
 small size, the general effect was imposing and church-like. 
 
 The next day (Sunday) being within the octave of Corpus 
 Christi, there was a grand ecclesiastical procession through 
 the principal streets, and being desirous of seeing the interior 
 of the Cathedral, as well as of witnessing the ceremony, I 
 went to the church and found the procession forming in the 
 interior. There were several sisterhoods present from the 
 different convents, and many others were expected to join at 
 different points, while quite a number of clergy were making 
 preparations. Mass was over when I entered the church, and 
 I therefore had an opportunity of examining the building, 
 which was the most glaring sham I ever set eyes on. Sham 
 
 Id
 
 98 
 
 wooden pillars painted to represent stone, supported a sham 
 vaulting, while two tiers of galleries ran round three sides. 
 The altar was however fine and free from tawdriness, and 
 above it was a large stained window. Presently I was dread- 
 fully startled by the sudden striking up by a brass band, in 
 the church, of a most secular sounding melody, I am almost 
 sure, a polka, while at the same time the organist commenced 
 playing a totally different tune, on the full organ, the discord 
 being brought to a climax by the sound of a second brass 
 band outside, and the tolling of the great bell. Amidst this 
 horrid din, the procession moved off, every token of respect 
 being paid by those in the streets as the Host was carried 
 along under a splendid canopy. In the course of the afternoon 
 I wandered down to the wharfs, or rather stone quays which 
 extend for a considerable distance along the river, and while 
 prowling about here, my fondness for steam shipping tempt- 
 ed me to go on board the* " Anglo-Saxon," a fine screw stea- 
 mer running between Montreal and Liverpool. While en- 
 gaged in exploring the recesses of the vessel, I had not observ- 
 ed the change which had taken place in the weather, and was 
 extremely surprised on coming on deck, for the purpose of 
 going ashore, to find a storm of hail descending, which kept 
 me prisoner for an hour, and prevented me from carrying 
 out my intention of attending afternoon serviqe at the tem- 
 porary Anglican Cathedral. My position was rendered 
 doubly pleasant by the sitting down to dinner in the saloon 
 of all the officers of the ship, who evidently regarded me as 
 an unwelcome intruder, till at last I was compelled to make 
 a rush, although the rain was by no means over, and succeed- 
 ed in gaining the hotel, in a soaked condition. 
 
 There are many convents in this city ; I visited one, and 
 was much pleased with the order and neatness of everything,
 
 99 
 
 their chapel was a pretty little building, and fitted up with 
 very good taste. During the winter months the river is 
 frozen over, and I should think Montreal must be dreadfully 
 dull. In the spring, the thaw causes the ice to descend in 
 immense masses, great blocks being sometimes piled up along 
 tlie quays as high as the houses. This has been also the 
 great difficulty in building the Victoria Bridge, which is now 
 however nearly finished and as strong as human hands can 
 hope to make it. The next day we left Montreal, being 
 conveyed across the river in a steam ferry boat to the train 
 which awaited us on the opposite side. 
 
 We reached Rouse's Point, at the head of Lake Champlain, 
 in a couple of hours, and after a mere pretence by the official 
 of examining our baggage, found ourselves on board the 
 steamer, and once more uuder the Stars and Stripes. The 
 country all round Lake Champlain is very picturesque and 
 beautiful, but the lake is too wide at its upper end to enable 
 those on the boats to get a good view of either side, but 
 towards the lower end it narrows to a breadth of one or two 
 miles ; and at Fort Ticonderoga, (where we disembarked,) the 
 scenery is exceedingly fine, reminding me very much of parts 
 of Scotland. After scrambling up a steep bank from the 
 landing place, we found three stages, of the abominable con- 
 struction which prevails all over the country, waiting to 
 convey our party (some thirty in all) across to the head of 
 Lake George. It took us nearly an hour to get packed in 
 like herrings in a cask, and at last we set ofiF, every jolt causing 
 the ten passengers whom our vehicle contained to sway about 
 in one solid helpless heap. Oh the discomfort of these horrid 
 " leathern conveniences," the celebrated " Hawes Fly" must 
 have been a model of speed and comfort compared to them. 
 Wo took an hour to perform the distance, which Avas barely 
 five miles, and as I was so unfortunate as to be wedged in 
 between two ladies, I caught ouly a few intermittent glimpses
 
 100 
 
 of the country. I was very much pleased with the scenery 
 of Lake George, I believe it is considered the prettiest of all 
 the American lakes, and reminded me, in some parts, of Loch 
 Katrine, the size of the two lakes being moreover nearly the 
 same. But I felt a decided satisfaction in being able con- 
 scientiously to declare that it could not compare with Loch 
 Lomond, the queen of our Scottish lakes. Lake George, or 
 to give it its old Indian name, Lake Horicon, was the scene 
 of the massacre of British troops by the Indians, in the war 
 with the French in 1755, and the hotel to which our whole 
 party was bound, is built on the site, then occupied by Fort 
 William Henry. The spot is rendered interesting to novel 
 readers, as being the scene of the events detailed in Cooper's 
 most delightful work, the " Last of the Mohicans." We 
 found quite a large party stopping at the hotel, which, although 
 in such a thinly peopled locality, is in its size and appoint- 
 ments equal to many iu the large cities : its business being 
 however entirely confined to the summer months. Situated 
 but thirty miles from Saratoga, the great watering place, it 
 is a very favourite resort for those who are condemned to 
 undergo the double process of drinking the waters and 
 enduring the stilling heat for which that American Spa is 
 celebrated ; the neighbourhood of Lake George, though hot 
 cnougli, being perfectly polar in its temperature in comparison. 
 We remained one night at the Fort William Henry Hotel, 
 and on the following day took stages for the "Moran" 
 station, there to take the cars for Saratoga. I was delighted 
 to find that our conveyance was not the detested form of 
 vehicle with whicli I had already made such intimate acquaint- 
 ance, but a sort of char-a-banc, and very comfortable. The 
 road too was smooth, being what is called a " plank road," a 
 name which explains itself; and as we had the additional 
 advantage of very pleasant companions, our drive of twelve 
 miles formed a great contrast to the miseries of our ride the
 
 101 
 
 day before. We had to wait an hour at the station, which, 
 although but a shed, could, we were glad to find, boast of a 
 " bar," whereat Sherry Cobblers, &c. were in great request. 
 At last the train arrived, and we started off at great speed 
 along a railroad considered bad even in America. The only 
 thing that saved us from being jolted to pieces was the admi- 
 rable^eonstruction of the cars. As it was : the bumps and jolts 
 with which the wheels met, imparted to the body of the car 
 a jumping motion, which caused the occupants to perform a 
 series of bobbings up and down, similar to the performance 
 of an indifferent equestrian on a rough trotting horse. We 
 reached Saratoga by 6 that evening, and I accompanied a 
 very pleasant family whose acquaintance I had made at Mon- 
 treal, to the United States Hotel. The town, I thought 
 decidedly pretty, it seems almost made up of hotels, and trees ; 
 with pretty gardens nicely laid out, surrounding the different 
 well-houses. I noticed that the ladies, here, all eschew the 
 use of bonnets, and walk about with only a parasol, and often 
 in low dresses. The next day is in my recollection, a blank, 
 my memory retaining only a vague, hazy remembrance of 
 intense, insufferable heat, made worse by my insane efforts to 
 cool myself by fanning and sprinkling of Eau-de-colgne. To 
 do any thing was out of the question, one's only care was to 
 find a shady place, (a cool place there was not) and stick to it 
 — even those accustomed to American heat, acknowledged 
 that they were overpowered that day. 
 
 In the evening, when the heat was less stifling, I accom- 
 panied one of our lady travelling acquaintances, in a walk 
 through some of the grounds attached to the Congress 
 Spring, trying a glass of the water, which is about as nasty 
 as most mineral waters are. In the course of our ramble 
 we came upon a circular railway with a kind of velocipede 
 running on it for the amusement of those whose tastes 
 inclined that way. "What possessed us I cannot think, but
 
 102 
 
 by a simultaneous impulse we proposed a circuitous journey 
 on tliis affair, and accordingly we proceeded to drive round 
 in an insane manner, and my disgust was not small when on 
 regaining terra fiima, and my senses, I found that the 
 heat of the morning had returned with double intensity and 
 that the man in charge of the infernal machine demanded half 
 a dollar. I gave him a two-dollar bill and my sincere blessing 
 (the latter being divided between him and his instrument of 
 torment) and received a bad bill in exchange ; a fact which 
 I mention, as it was the only bad money that ever fell into my 
 hands, in a country notorious for the circulation of worthless 
 notes. There is a pretty little lake, about four miles from 
 the town, but I could not go to see it— it was too hot to see 
 anything, or feel anything but stifling oppression by day, 
 and musquitoes at night — though I escaped the latter, 
 wonderfully, when every one else was being devoured. 
 
 The following day we reached Albany (a distance of 30 
 miles), by the same detestable railroad on which we had 
 previously travelled : passing through Troy, a city equalling 
 Albany in size, and distant from it only about ten miles. 
 I wont again to the Delavan House, and remained in the 
 town all the following day. Albany being the capital of 
 the State of New York, contains one or two handsome 
 public buildings, and though the town itself is not parti- 
 cularly well built, yet, from its commanding positian, (on 
 a slight eminence overlooking the Hudson) its general 
 aspect is pleasing, especially when seen from the opposite 
 side of the river. The principal street runs up from the 
 river to the top of the hill, on which stands the State-iiouse, 
 or Capitol, (I forgot whicli they call it,) and is very broad, 
 too much so indeed. At the time I was there, a new 
 Anglican Church S. Peter's, was in course of erection, 
 and it promised well : consisting, as far as I could see in its 
 uufiuished state, of a nave and chancel with aisles, and a
 
 103 
 
 corner tower, in the second pointed style. The only other 
 Anglican Church I saw was St. Paul's, a very ugly Grecian 
 building, decently fitted up and containing a good organ. 
 The chief ornaments of the town, however are two large 
 Koman Churches, the Cathedral and S. Joseph's. 
 
 They are both about the same size, S. Joseph's being 
 perhaps the larger, and certainly, the finer. The Cathedral 
 consists of nave, transepts, and chancel ; all with aisles. It 
 has two western towers and is built externally of dark red 
 stone, and in late second pointed. Unfortunately the interior 
 is very plmtery^ both columns and roof being sham, although 
 of good design ; the stained glass is abundant and pretty 
 good, and there is a fine large organ in the west gallery, by 
 Erbeu of New York. 
 
 S. Joseph's differs from the Cathedral, in plan, in having 
 one western tower, at the extremity of the nave, and also two 
 lofty turrets, one at each angle formed by the chancel and 
 transepts. The style is early second pointed, and the material, 
 dark slate-coloured stone with white stone dressings, the 
 features most deserving notice being the western doorway 
 which, with the two porches, is very good. Internally the 
 effect of the whole is exceedingly fine, the roof being of open 
 timber, richly carved and polyehromed, while the piers of the 
 arches supporting the clerestory are of polished white marble, 
 the capitals being judiciously gilded and coloured. The 
 chancel is apsidal, and has no windows in the walls ; the 
 light being admitted through an opening in the roof, and 
 falling directly on the altar. This latter stands in the cliord 
 of the apse, and together with its beautiful reredos, is of pure 
 white marble, most richly carved. It is by far the best Eoman 
 Altar I ever saw ; and the two altars of S. Mary and S. Josepli 
 were in equally good taste ; the latter being almost Protesf ant 
 in its simplicity, and displaying neither cross nor light, but 
 a large Bible. The windows are all filled with stained glass,
 
 104 
 
 and some of it is exceedingly good ; but the great glory of 
 the Church, is the supurb organ, the largest on the American 
 Continent. 
 
 It was built by Simmons and Wilcox of Boston, and con- 
 tains seventy stops. It stands at the west end of the nave. 
 Having an introduction from a friend in New York, I went 
 to see the studio of Mr. Palmer, an American, indeed I 
 might almost say the American Sculptor. One beautiful 
 figure just completed, struck me as being far superior to the 
 Greek Slave, about which every one raved in 1851, and 
 proved that America is not so much benighted in matters of 
 art as is often supposed. You will say to yourself on reading 
 this, that my estimate of the comparative merits of the two 
 pieces of sculpture, is worth nothing ; as, a boy of fourteen, 
 as I was in 1851, is incapable of forming a judgment on such 
 points ; but I must remind you that I have seen the " Q-reek 
 Slave" since then. 
 
 From Albany, I took the cars direct to Boston, passing 
 through the lovely scenery of the Connecticut valley, by way 
 of Springfield ; at which point the railway crosses the Con- 
 necticut river, by a long wooden viaduct roofed over, as are 
 all such structures in America. And very provoking these 
 coverings are, for often when looking out on the surround- 
 ing landscape, I have seen a river a-head, and have thought 
 " what a lovely view we shall have from the bridge ;" but 
 alas ! when the bridge is reached, a horrid din in the ears, 
 and profound darkness before the eyes, are hardly to be 
 regarded as compensation, for the lost view. From Spring- 
 field two lines branch ofi", one going by way of Newhaven 
 to New York, the other, which was my line, to Boston. In 
 Boston I remained three days, and then returned hither ; 
 and I do not think I shall leave New York again, until I 
 leave it finally on my return to England. While in Boston, 
 I experienced all the delights of a 4th of July celebration.
 
 105 
 
 On these occasions every one seems beseized with a sudden 
 mania for gunpowder. Pistols, crackers and even guns, 
 (I don't mean field pieces) being fired off promiscuously 
 without let or hindrance, even in the most crowded streets, 
 though as far as I am aware, without any injury being done 
 to life or property. 
 
 13
 
 LETTEE XIY. 
 
 New York. 
 As I have nothing particular to write about to-day, it occurs 
 to mo that I cannot do better, than answer as fully as possi- 
 ble the long list of questions you have put to me, regarding 
 the progress of organ building, and organ playing in America. 
 This letter therefore will be so completely or^«n«c, that any one 
 who is not musically inclined, had better not attempt to read 
 it. To begin then with the builders. The names to be found 
 on the principal organs, in the United States, are, Erben, 
 Jardine, and Eobjohn of New York ; Simmons and Wilcox, 
 Hook, and Appleton, of Boston. The organ of Trinity 
 Church, New York, is perhaps the best, as it certainly is the 
 largest of Erben's. The compass of each key-board is from 
 CCCto f^ in alt. the great organ running throughout, the choir 
 to CO., with the lower octave acting on swell bass ; and 
 the swell to tenor C, with a sixteen foot Dulciana and reed, 
 on the two bass octaves.- The great organ contains two open 
 diapasons throughout in metal ; seven ranks of mixture and 
 two reeds, twelve stops in all. The swell contains nine stops, 
 and the choir, eight. There is a thirty-two foot open stop of 
 gigantic size on the pedals ; so large indeed, that the three 
 lower notes can hardly be made to speak ; but the pipes that 
 do sound, are remarkably fine. The swell is inclosed in a
 
 . 107 
 
 very thick box, with three sets of shutters, which open in 
 succession ; and the crescendo effect is in consequence greater 
 than in any other organ I have heard. The tone of the in- 
 strument is good, though somewhat deficient in brilliance 
 and power, the diapasons especially being very weak. On 
 the whole, however, it is a fine instrument, and the church 
 being well adapted for music, sounds well. Another of Er- 
 ben's organs is that in the Roman Catholic Cathedral at 
 Albany, it is a large instrument of much the same character 
 as Trinity, except that its great organ only descends toCC,,and 
 the pedal organ has no thirty-two foot stop. As I could not 
 obtain access to this organ, I cannot give any detailed account 
 of it. A number of other instruments by the same maker, are 
 to be met with in difierent parts of the country all characteriz- 
 ed by much the same merits and defects, the two organs which 
 I have mentioned being perhaps the most important. Of 
 Jardine's instruments I have seen but three, (one of which 
 was in his factory,) and I cannot say that I admired them ; 
 the tone seemed like that of an exaggerated harmonium. 
 The third named builder, Robjohu, though doing but a very 
 small business, has turned out some of the best instruments 
 in the country, though being an Englishman himself, and 
 employing English workmen, his instruments can hardly be 
 cited as examples of American manufacture. His two 
 largest organs are, one at Troy, a most splendid instrument, 
 with a CC. swell, of 13 stops, an 8 stop pedal organ, and 
 upwards of 50 sounding stops in all ; and an equally large 
 and fine one in a ' Dutch Reformed' Church in Fifth Avenue, 
 New York. Both these instruments are finished in the most 
 perfect manner, and their tone is full and brilliant, equalling 
 any modern English organs I ever heard ; they are also 
 supplied with pneumatic action. Although a much smaller 
 instrument, the organ of S. John's Chapel, New York, by 
 this builder, is perhaps even more remarkable for its extreme
 
 108 
 
 fullness and brightness of tone. Its great organ consists of 
 but eight stops, having six ranks of mixture and one reed, 
 but its tone is magnificent, the open diapason being sonorous 
 and smooth, and the chorus ringing and brilliant. It has 
 a small but sweet toned swell, and a choir organ in front, 
 with two sixteen foot stops on the pedal, a large one of wood 
 and a smaller one of metal, both very efiective. 
 
 As far as I have seen, I should decidedly give the first place, 
 among American organ builders, to Messrs. Simmons and 
 Wilcox of Boston. Mr. Simmons having a thoroughly prac- 
 tical knowledge of the mechanical details of his profession, 
 and Mr. Wilcox conbining with a great degree of the same 
 proficiency, a most perfect theoretical and practical acquaint- 
 ance with music. He not only helps to make organs as 
 well as any one I know of, but he also makes them speak after- 
 wards, in a manner I never heard surpassed ; the result of 
 the combined action of the two partners being the production 
 of a class of instruments which rival any produced in Eng- 
 land. I have not space to describe half the splendid organs 
 of their building which I have seen, and will confine myself 
 to a slight notice of the two which are I believe the finest. 
 The organ of S. Joseph's Church at Albany is, as I 
 have said, the largest ever built on the American continent, 
 and contains nearly sixty sounding stops. The swell runs 
 througliout (as do all the swells made by these builders) and 
 contains four reed stops, the great organ contains sixteen 
 stops, and amongst thein a sixteen foot double open diapason 
 in metal, ten ranks of mixture and two reed stops, as well as 
 a beautifully toned gamba. The pedal organ contains ten 
 bt(jps, one of them a " a thirty-two foot open." The general 
 tone of the organ is remarkably fine, the reeds and gambas 
 espocially, and it is of tremendous power. The other organ 
 of which I wish to speak, is that of Harvard College Chapel 
 at Canibridgo, near Boston. Though not so large as the
 
 109 
 
 Albany one, it is I think even better toned, being more 
 delicately voiced ; the metal of the pipes too is better, the 
 front open diapason being of pure tin. It has forty sounding 
 stops, including seven on the pedal organ. Some of the solo 
 stops on the choir organ are very beautiful, especially the 
 vox-angelica and the vox-humana, which latter is better than 
 any I ever heard excepting those in the Dutch organs. 
 
 The organs of " Hook" of Boston, I cannot admire ; their 
 
 reed and solo stops are very good, and so are their pedal 
 
 basses, but the great organ is thin and poor. The best of 
 
 their instruments I saw was that in S. Paul's Church, Boston ; 
 
 but even in this the diapasons of the great organ though 
 
 sweet were very weak, and the mixtures miserable. The 
 
 large organ in the Tremont Temple is one of their's, and 
 
 contains some good points. The swell for instance is very fincj 
 
 running throughout and containing I think, fifteen stops ; 
 
 the pedal organ also is good : but the great organ, though 
 
 containing ten ranks of mixture, is wretched — and not a bit 
 
 more powerful than the swell. This instrument is I believe 
 
 the only one in America which has a solo organ, though 
 
 this solitary example is not a very favourable specimen. 
 
 Appleton has been dead some years, but many of his organs 
 
 are to be met with, and they are in many respects, good 
 
 instruments, containing generally but few fancy stops, and 
 
 but poor reeds, their diapasons and mixtures being, however, 
 
 for the most part full, and somewhat brilliant. The price of 
 
 organs in America is, I think, decidedly below the average in 
 
 England ; for example, the great Albany organ cost only 
 
 7,000 dollars, or about 1500^. and the Harvard Chapel one, 
 
 6,000 dollars. It is true, that in such cases, either the work 
 
 must be inferior, or else the builders must lose, and in the two 
 
 instances I have quoted, the latter, I know to have been the 
 
 case. But enough of organs. (By the bye I have always 
 
 forgotten to answer a question of yours, viz., where is
 
 110 
 
 Brooklyn, and is it a district or a town ?) I have seen, in 
 many journals of travels in America, Brooklyn described as 
 a suburb of New York — wouldn't the Brooklynites be savage 
 if they heard their city so insulted. I believe they rather look 
 upon New York as a suburb of Brooklyn. The city is laid out 
 on the same rectangular plan as New York, its two principal 
 avenues running up at right angles with the East River or 
 Sound, " Atlantic Street" being the name of that to the 
 west, and " Fulton Avenue," of the other. These are crossed 
 at right angles by Court Street, a,nd further up by Flatbush 
 Avenue. There are three ferries from New York to Brooklyn, 
 besides others further up the North River, to Grreen Point 
 and Williamsburgh. These three are the South Ferry 
 between the Battery, and foot of Atlantic Street, Wall 
 Street Ferry, and Fulton Ferry, which last connects Fulton 
 Street, New York, with Fulton Avenue, Brooklyn. The 
 progress of improvement has been much hindered in Atlantic 
 Street, by the custom of driving locomotives through the street, 
 which is still caried on here. It is the more inconvenient, 
 as horse cars run on the same rails with the locomotive trains, 
 which have to keep a sharp look out to avoid running over 
 them. There is also a railroad in Fulton Avenue, but only 
 for horse cars, and I believe that soon the locomotives will 
 be obliged to stop short of the city, and will thus relieve the 
 iuliabituuts of Atlantic Street from a great annoyance. The 
 City Kali of Brooklyn, stands at the junction of Court Street 
 with Fulton Avenue, and is a fine building of white marble, 
 greatly superior to the New York Hall. A large opera House 
 is also in course of erection here, though whetlier, in such 
 close proxiuiity to New York, it will pay, is a question. There 
 are some ])retty good cliurclics, but no attempt at a choral 
 S"rvico. Trinity Churcli is a large building in very qucstion- 
 al)l(> second pointed, but it will have (when completed) a good 
 to\v(!r, and lias already a fme doorway. Greenwood cemetery
 
 ]11 
 
 is I believe beautiful, but I am ashamed to say I have never 
 been there, al^vajs meaning to go " some other day." To a 
 stranger walking along the streets of ISiew York or Brooklyn, 
 New York especially, the question would be very likely to 
 arise, Does this people live on oysters and lager beer- In 
 some parts of the city almost every other shop is an " Oyster 
 Saloon," and they eat them all the year round. One writer 
 in America described their oysters as being not quite so large 
 as a small leg of Welsh mutton, but thought the flavour in- 
 ferior to ours, I confess I prefer them, although they are so 
 huge — their flavour seemed to me exceedingly pleasant and 
 delicate. What is lager beer ? I should answer, the best 
 thing in the world to produce a splitting headache. The 
 first time I ever tasted it, was just before entering an omnibus. 
 I took one glass — on my honour, but one glass — and fell into 
 a oblivious state on the seat of my vehicle, from which I 
 awoke to find myself on the floor, by a great mercy, not in 
 middle of the road. The opening of oysters is quite a trade, 
 and I have often seen advertisements in the Herald for a 
 man or boy thoroughly competent to open oysters. The 
 " Great Eastern" is expected to arrive here, the week after 
 next, and as my present intention is to return home in her, 
 you may expect to see me before the end of August. I shall 
 of course write again, before I leave.
 
 LETTEE XV. 
 
 The New Yorkers are certainly the most excitable people 
 under the sun : if they can once succeed in making a lion 
 of any person or thing, the object of their admiration or 
 interest is, for the time worshipped, and when their enthu- 
 siasm has worn itself out, is often neglected, and even abused. 
 During the spring and summer of 1860 there have been 
 perhaps more causes for this excitement, than have occurred 
 in a single year for a long time past. First, the whole city 
 was in a ferment about the Sayers and Heenan contest, then 
 we had the Japanese embassy, then the " Great Eastern," 
 and the visit of the Prince of Wales, to which they are now 
 looking forward, will I fancy be the culminating point of 
 their excitement, that is to say, unless the threatened trou- 
 bles in the South do not give them even more cause for a sen- 
 sation. How I pitied those poor Japanese ambassadors, drag- 
 ged round the city as they were, for a show and spectacle ; they 
 bore it all very patiently, and seemed quite resigned to their 
 fate. They were soon tired of their American tour— railway 
 travelling made their celestial heads ache, and I suspect 
 the rudeness and familiarity to which they were exposed, 
 troubled them more. One of the suite, a saucy boy of sixteen, 
 made great havoc among the hearts of the ladies— but stop, 
 I must, in charity, say no more of that. How thousands of
 
 113 
 
 generally sensible American women must blush now, on re- 
 collecting what egregious fools they made of themselves 
 during the visit of " Tommy." " Tommy," I have no doubt 
 thought it fine fun, when the crowd allowed the carriages of 
 the chief ambassadors to pass with a stare, and saluted him 
 with shouts and cheers. He certainly received his ovations 
 in the most dignified manner, as he sat perched on the great 
 wagon which bore the " treaty box," waving his handkerchief 
 and smiling blandly at the ladies. For the credit of New 
 York, however, I must say that it was at Washington and 
 other places that the greatest amount of this foolery was gone 
 through ; indeed by the time the embassy reached the Empire 
 city, the excitement was already dying out, and people were 
 beginning to look for the next performance — the arrival of the 
 Mammoth of the Seas. 
 
 Ever since the first building of the great ship, I have 
 been one of her most sincere well wishers — and my faith in 
 her success has all along been great. Plenty of persons will 
 always be found to croak and prophesy ill of great enter- 
 prises, and I think the Great Eastern lias suffered more than 
 her due share of such scoffings. As the vast walls of iron 
 rose up on the bank of the Thames, amidst general admira- 
 tion for the boldness and grandeur of the undertaking, a 
 feeble croaking was distinctly heard saying — " Ah ! they may 
 finish it, though I dont believe they'll do that ; but they never 
 can get her into the water — why, donl you see ? its as plain 
 as a pike staff that if they try" — and so on. But the immense 
 fabric steadily grew, and at last was ready for launching — 
 and now came the delays and difficulty of the launch and the 
 croak swelled into a triumphant shout of — " I told joix so. 
 I'm glad I've got no shares in such a hair-brained concern" 
 until the ship satisfied her friends and for tlie time silenced 
 her enemies by quietly floating off on a Sunday afternoon.* 
 * By the way it is rather remarkable that with one exception, all the epochs
 
 114 
 
 The prophets of evil were almost annihilated when in spite of 
 their dire predictions to the contrary, the great ship safely 
 left the Thames, and they might perhaps have been silenced 
 for ever, had not the unfortunate bursting of the funnel 
 casing, in the saloon, set their tongues at work faster than 
 ever. I must observe, that I think it says but little for the 
 intellect of our people at large, that public confidence should 
 have been so shaken, by an accident which might have hap- 
 pened anywhere, and the sole cause of which was instantly 
 afterwards removed : but what will not prejudice do ? 
 
 The disappointment which the Portland (America) people 
 experienced in 1859, caused them to write bitter things about 
 the ship, but the New Yorkers had never done so, and now 
 in June 1860, when they only thought of the excitement of 
 welcoming so wonderful a visitor, their papers teemed with 
 laudation and long accounts and descriptions of the ship. 
 After several false alarms, I was informed about 2 o'clock on 
 Thursday the 28th of June, that the " Grreat Eastern" was 
 actually off Sandy Hook, and might be expected to arrive at 
 the wharf prepared for her, at about 5 o'clock. I at once 
 armed myself with a telescope, and proceeded to ascend the 
 spire of Trinity Church, from which the bay is visible as far 
 down as the "Narrow." I found a large party assembled 
 on the tower, including several of the clergy ; and on my 
 appearance was hailed with, " Here's your big ship positively 
 arrived after all." The population seemed to have taken to 
 the roofs of their houses in all directions. Broadway was 
 deserted save by a few figures rushing frantically to reach 
 some spot commanding a view of the harbour. The Battery, 
 
 of the ship'ri history have occurred on a Suuday. She did uot indeed sail 
 from the ThainoB ou Sunday, but she w;i3 launched on Suuday, sailed on her 
 fn-.st Atlantic trip ou Sunday, left the American Continent at Halifax, on her 
 return, on Sunday, arrived at home on Sunday, and was safely landed on the 
 Gridiron (where, at this present writing she rests,) on a Suuday. According 
 to sailors' idea she ought to be a lucky ship.
 
 115 
 
 and every spot from, whence a view of the expected arrival could 
 be obtained, was black with people. Afloat, too, the excite- 
 ment was immense. Fleets of yachts and steamers crowded 
 with passengers, were making their way down the harbour, 
 to meet the monster. Near the Battery lay the frigate " Nia- 
 gara," dwarfing, all the smaller craft, by her huge propor- 
 tions. Presently some one cried, "I see her," and directly 
 the six masts of the " Great Eastern" came into view above 
 the point of land which juts out into the Narrows, on the 
 Long Island side. Almost directly afterwards, her enormous 
 hull appeared, entirely blotting out the small bit of horizon 
 which is visible between the Long Island and Staten shores, 
 the vessel at the same moment becoming shrouded in the 
 smoke of the guns which were saluting her from the forts, and 
 which she answered. She continued firing all the way up, 
 in answer to the salutes, fired by the revenue cutter, 
 *' Harriet Lane" which kept company with her, and to the 
 deafening cheers of the passengers on the deeply loaded 
 Steamers which had gone to meet her, and which now 
 followed her as fast as they could. In passing the " Niagara," 
 she entirely eclipsed the huge frigate, dwarfing it to the 
 apparent dimensions of a little barque of three hundred tons. 
 Every ship dipped the ensign as she passed, and those which 
 had guns, fired them ; the Cunard Steamer " Asia" giving 
 her a famous salute. The poor man in charge of the " Great 
 Eastern's" ensign must have been tired, as he had to keep 
 running it up and down, the whole way up past the wharfs. 
 Amongst other friends of mine who witnessed the arrival 
 from Trinity tower, was the organist of the Church, and after 
 watching the Leviathan up to her wharf we descended, and 
 at his suggestion, I sat down and played " God save the 
 Queen" on the organ, with immense enthusiasm. As is 
 usually the case here, the new attraction continued in high 
 favour for a short time, and every one was loud in praise of
 
 116 
 
 the wonderful qualities of the great ship. The exoitement has 
 now, however, died out. The people are beginning to feel that 
 they have been beaten ; that the nose of the American eagle 
 has been put decidedly out of joint, and, in short, they have 
 become jealous. The other day on board, 1 overheard many 
 disparaging remarks, such as, " Waal, I guess, she ain't no 
 great chalks after all." " I reckon she don't come up to our 
 • Adriatic ;' nohow you can fix' it," and " Talk of her great 
 saloon ! why my barn's better fitted up than that place." 
 Then they found out that her deck was badly laid, (as indeed 
 it unfortunately is), and they have certainly made the most 
 of their discovery. The unlucky excursion to Cape May, of 
 which you must have seen an account in the papers, has put 
 the cdpo-stone to the downfall of the poor " Great Eastern." 
 In justice to my American friends, I must admit that this 
 kind of feeling is confined chiefly to the mass^ among persons 
 in good society I heard few remarks, which were not prompted 
 by admiration of the wonderful vessel, and shame at the 
 disgraceful manner, in which she, and all those connected with 
 her^ had been abused. She leaves New York on her home- 
 ward voyage, on the 16th of August ; and if I am not incapa- 
 ci'tated by sea sickness, I shall keep a Journal while on 
 board ; and I hope it may be more interesting than the scanty 
 records of my last sea trip proved to be.
 
 JOURNAL KEPT ON BOARD " THE GREAT 
 EASTERN." 
 
 Thursday, the IQth August. This was indeed a lovely day, 
 and everything gave promise of a smooth, and speedy pas- 
 sago. At 2 o'clock, a small tug, which had been hired to 
 convey the passengers on bdard, left the wharf and steamed 
 out to the huge vessel, lying at anchor in the stream. We 
 are but a small party, our number scarcely exceeding one 
 hundred, and half of them are to leave us at Halifax. On 
 arriving alongside we found that coaling was still going on, 
 and the tug was therefore moored to one of the coal barges, 
 over which we scrambled to the ladder, and were soon stand- 
 ing safely on the spacious deck of the great ship. The little 
 crowd round the gangway, seemed lost on the huge space, 
 which presented the appearance of a deserted street. I had 
 secured a large and most comfortable state-room, opening off 
 the First Dining Saloon ; or, to speak more correctly, it is a 
 suite of three state-rooms, opening off each other ; a large one, 
 eight feet by twenty, and two smaller ones, of which, I occupi- 
 ed one and my friend the other ; while we had the beds in the 
 largo one folded up and concealed by curtains, thus making 
 it a capital sitting room. Having seen our things comforta- 
 bly arranged, I returned on deck and took up my station on 
 the paddle box, in order to watch the evolutions about to be 
 performed in starting the ship. "We were lying with our head
 
 118 
 
 up the river, and a couple of powerful tugs were at hand, to 
 render assistance, if required, in turning us round. About 
 half-past four, the anchor having been got up with some dif- 
 ficulty, the screw engines made their first revolution, and we 
 slowly began to move astern, till the bow of the vessel was 
 pointed to the Jersey shore. At this time we were close 
 alongside the " Adriatic," and (although the engines, both 
 screw and paddle, were now turning ahead) in consequence 
 of the stern way on the vessel, we remained nearly stationary 
 for some minutes, during which time the " Adriatic" saluted 
 with several guns ; her deck being crowded with spectators, as 
 were also all the wharves, along the river. At last we were 
 headed in the right direction, and the spires and buildings 
 of New York began, with increasing celerity, to range astern. 
 We ware saluted by the ^' Persia'' lying at her dock, and by 
 the Cunard Screw Steamer " Australasian" which was on the 
 point of starting for Liverpool. She was at anchor in the 
 stream, and we passed close to her, our lofty bulwarks rising 
 above the tops of her funnels. When off the Battery, which 
 was crowded with people, we saluted with four guns, and 
 then started off, full speed, down the bay. I now descended 
 to dinner, in the first Dining Saloon, and having been told 
 all sorts of dreadful stories as to the probability of my being 
 starved, I was rather curious to see what kind of fare would 
 be provided. Certainly there was not such variety as on the 
 Cunard vessels, but everything was very good, and there 
 was no cause of complaint, although several of our passengers, 
 who could not make allowance for the many difficulties 
 which must attend every department in the first starting 
 of so gigantic an undertaking, grumbled a good deal. 
 Although we wore going at full speed, the motion of the 
 engines was almost imperceptible, that of the paddle engines 
 entirely so, and in the Grand Saloon, there was not the 
 slightest vibration. On resuming my station on the paddle
 
 119 
 
 box, I foiiiid that we had passed the Narrows, and were near- 
 ing Sandy Hook. As we approached the Fort which lies 
 opposite, our guns thundered out a national salute of twenty- 
 one guns, and I confess I thought such an act of courtesy 
 deserved a better return than the mere dipping of the Star 
 and Stripes. They might have spared powder enough for one 
 gun at least, but no ! the poor Great Eastern had evidently 
 lost her prestige, and although our gunners exerted them- 
 selves to such an extent as to let their rammer or spunge, or 
 whatever it is, fall overboard — we received but a silent bow 
 from the Fort. Our feelings were somewhat soothed by the 
 vigorous cheering of a party in a little cockle shell of a boat, 
 who all stood up, and, regardless of the strong chances of up- 
 setting, gave us a grand ovation, to which our passengers res- 
 ponded by a general hoisting of pocket handkerchiefs. Having 
 cautiously crept over the bar, we stopped and discharged 
 Mr. Murphy, the New York pilot, the passengers giving him 
 three cheers, and our brass band playiug a medly of Yankee 
 tunes : and at about 7 o'clock we started off, full speed, for 
 Halifax. The sound of the bugle playing " Polly put the 
 kettle on," reminded us that the kettle not only had been 
 put on, but had boiled and made tea, and down we went to 
 partake of it. It is difficult to imagine, in this lofty apart- 
 ment lighted by five brilliant chandeliers, that we are at 
 sea, everything is so unlike the general idea of a ship's cabin, 
 and if this is the case in the Dining Saloon, much more is it 
 so in the Grand Saloon, which, when lighted up, looks, with its 
 superb mirrors, hangings and paintings, more like a tastefully 
 furnished drawing-room, than the Saloon of a steamship. A 
 word about this Grand Saloon. It was the fashion when it 
 was first decorated to admire it, but I have lately heard, 
 (especially in America) far more expressions of opinion 
 adverse to, than in favour of it. Now it always struck me 
 as being in its general decoration, one of the most beautiful,
 
 120 
 
 and truly artistic rooms I ever saw either afloat or ashore : it 
 is not gaudy, it is gorgeous. The only fault which can be 
 alleged against it is that perhaps the decorations are a little 
 too delicate and fragile, to stand the rough usage to which 
 they have been subjected. Evening Concerts have been pro- 
 posed in the Ladies' Saloon, and after we have left Halifax, 
 the Captain is going to organize one ever_y evening, and there 
 is plenty of material ; for we have a good band, and there is 
 not only an excellent piano in the Saloon, but also a profes- 
 sional pianist ; hired specially for the delectation of the pas- 
 sengers. We are now exposed to the long swell of the Atlantic, 
 but as yet our noble ship has not condescended to notice it, 
 although she undoubtedly must roll if we encounter anything 
 like a sea, owing to the extremely empty state of her inside. 
 At night, the deck looks exactly like a long street, or rather 
 two long streets running on either side of a block of houses, of 
 which the smoking-room forms number one. By the time we 
 retire for the night, the Great Eastern has fallen into her regu- 
 lar jog-trot swagger, it can hardly be called a roll ; it is just 
 an easy, regular, motion by which, in order to avoid pitching 
 and tossing on the one hand, or a rigid immobility on the 
 other, she compromises matters with the waves of the Atlantic. 
 August \lth. I was rocked to sleep last night as if in a 
 cradle, and rose this morning after a delightful slumber to 
 find the lovely weather still continuing. It was very hot last 
 night, and we find it a great advantage to be able to keep 
 our windows open, in spite of any sea that may be running. 
 No fear of water coming in at any of the ports on the upper 
 and middle decks ; thirty feet above the surface ; indeed my 
 window is nearly forty feet from the water. We have passed 
 several vessels to-day, all of which altered their course, and 
 bore down as close as they could to have a look at the mon- 
 ster ; one large American vessel paying us the compliment of 
 lowering her topsails. Some of the passengers amused them-
 
 121 
 
 selves by playing at quoits on the after deck, and succeeded 
 by their uncertain aim in rendering that portion of the pro- 
 menade somewhat dangerous : the chances being strong as the 
 probability of some one finding an impromptu necklace in 
 the shape of a quoit, round his neck. In the afternoon a 
 little excitement was engendered by the giving way of one of 
 the vangs of the fore- mast trysail gaff? which caused the 
 heavy blocks to bang with a crash against the funnel at every 
 roll of the vessel, and brought several ladies on the deck to 
 see what was the matter. The derangement was most trifling, 
 and the yard was secured in a few minutes ; but an American 
 passenger who was going to Halifax, was so frightened, that 
 he said to me, " Well, I'm thankfid I am not going across 
 with you." Our speed, hitherto has been about fifteen knots, 
 or nearly seventeen miles an hour ; they mean to let out the 
 floats of the paddles when we get to Halifax, so as to givo 
 them more immersion and a better hold on the water. In 
 the evening, as we have as yet organized no concerts in the 
 saloon, the gentlemen of our party congregate chiefly in the 
 smoking room, and the ladies have their beautiful room pretty 
 much to themselves. 
 
 Monday, 20ih Saturday was as lovely a day as those 
 
 which preceded it, and soon after breakfast we made out the 
 land of Nova Scotia on the port bow, and just before descend- 
 ing to dinner which was at three, instead of 4 p. m., (the 
 regular hour) , we could discern Sambro Island right ahead. 
 On returning to the deck after the meal was over, I found 
 that we had rounded the island and were in the harbour, about 
 six miles from Halifax. As we proceeded, I distinguished 
 three steamers coming to meet us, crowded with people. The 
 most advanced was the Cunard Company's screw steamship 
 "Delta," having on board Mr. Cunard and a company of 
 friends, and as we approached they rounded to, and gave us a 
 hearty welcome, with cheers, and waving of handkerchiefs, 
 
 It)
 
 122 
 
 the Delta firing two guns. I happened to be standing quite 
 alone on the top of the port paddle box, and never shall forget 
 the excitement which possessed me as I stood there waving my 
 cap in answer to the cheers, which seemed specially meant for 
 me ; and my vanity received a horrible blow, in the shape of 
 a polite message from the Captain to the effect that he would 
 be much obliged if no one would stand on the paddle-box. 
 The Halifax people evidently had expected that the " Great 
 Eastern" would creep cautiously up the harbour, and these 
 steamers had intended accompanying us up to the town. They 
 soon found out their mistake, for we left them all, though (the 
 Delta especially) fast vessels, far astern, and steamed up full 
 speed as far as George's Island, when we saluted with four 
 guns. Each wharf as we passed (within a dozen feet) was 
 crowded with people, who sent up deafening cheers, as the 
 mighty vessel majestically glided past, while every available 
 point of the houses and the citadel hill, was black with people. 
 As soon as we were anchored, crowds of boats put off, and with 
 numbers of sailing yachts surrounded us, the floating throng 
 being soon joined by the Steamers which we had left behind, 
 and the whole continued rowing, sailing, or steaming round 
 the leviathan, their inmates cheering and shouting till their 
 lungs must have ached. Amongst the crowd below, I soon es- 
 pied some of my friends, who hastened up the side, and paying 
 their half crown admission, put themselves under my guid- 
 ance, and explored the vessel. We then went ashore, and I 
 spent a delightful evening among my old friends, and return- 
 ed on board at midnight. All night long the engineers' crew 
 were at work inside the huge paddle boxes, altering the floats, 
 and the work was not finished till 8 the following morning. 
 We took on board here five jmssengers : among them, one of 
 the great Wizards of the day. Professor Jacobs, and his brother, 
 whose capital performances I dare say you may have seen ; 
 as I think he has exhibited both in London and Edinburffh.
 
 123 
 
 I was exceedingly disappointed at the shortness of our stay, 
 having fully reckoned on spending a Sunday in my old 
 quarters, and this feeling was in some degree common to me, 
 and the whole of Halifax, many people having come 100 
 miles to see the ship, and then only getting a glimpse of her 
 outside. At nine o'clock yesterday morning, (Sunday,) we 
 were again in motion, and steaming out of the harbour 
 firing a salute of four guns as we started. A number of people 
 were visible on the wharves, &c., watching our departure, 
 and several little boats, filled with people, lay awaiting us 
 further down the harbour, and as we passed, gave us their 
 cheers and, I doubt not, good wishes. I stood at the stern, 
 watching the rapidly receding town, which continued visible 
 for nearly an hour, and then sending back my good wishes, 
 turned away with a hope that I might again, at some future 
 day, re-visit the place where I had passed so many happy 
 hours. Our fine weather had forsaken us, and yesterday we 
 had mist and rain, which rendered the lower regions more 
 inviting than the deck. There was no service, and I spent a 
 considerable portion of my day at the piano, in company 
 with Handel. We are carrying across the Atlantic two very 
 decidedly American fashions. We have a bar, and a barber's 
 shop. All ocean steamers have a " bar" indeed, but the pas- 
 sengers generally take their tipple in the Saloon; here however 
 those who want a stray glass of brandy and water must drink 
 it at the bar. I believe the bar keeper has been taught how 
 to make all manner of Yankee drinks, so that our American 
 passengers (a very small number) can suit themselves to a 
 nicety. The barber's shop is astern, off the third dining 
 saloon, and has been very nicely fitted up ; containing amongst 
 other things a couple of regular American shaving chairs. 
 The whole affair was got up by a smart little London hair 
 dresser, who made a very good thing of it while the ship was 
 in the States, though I do not think he has many customers
 
 124 
 
 amongst our present passengers. The wind and sea are now 
 more ahead than previously, and though there is far more of 
 both, our motion has rather diminished than increassd. A 
 head sea is the Great Eastern's favourite kind of weather. 
 
 To-day we have the same style of weather, and in the 
 
 course of the afternoon we were favoured with a fog, which 
 
 rendered the deck untenable, and caused the dire necessity 
 
 for blowing our steam whistle every now and then. We 
 
 were somewhere in the vicinity of Cape Race, and stopped for 
 
 soundings several times. In the course of the afternoon it 
 
 began to be rumoured that Mr. Jacobs intended to give us a 
 
 performance of magic, most probably the first time such an 
 
 idea as a conjuring performance, on the broad Atlantic, ever 
 
 entered the brain of man. Towards evening the rumour was 
 
 confirmed, and all began to look forward with immense 
 
 excitement to the novel entertainment. We had, for the first 
 
 time, some music in the evening, though hardly a regular 
 
 concert : some duets for piano and cornet a piston being very 
 
 well played, by two of the " Great Eastern'^ professionals. 
 
 Here am I, sitting on a luxurious velvet sofa, surrounded 
 
 by splendid mirrors, rich silk hangings, and tasteful works 
 
 of art : in a lofty and spacious apartment, brilliantly lighted 
 
 by handsome chandeliers, while through the open doors 
 
 of an adjoining and equally splendid room, is heard the 
 
 domestic sound of the piano. All around me are seated groups 
 
 engaged in reading, or a rubber at whist, or, if ladies, a little 
 
 crochet perhaps. From such a description one would think 
 
 I was an inmate of some grand mansion, the wealth of 
 
 whose proprietor enabled him to administer most satisfactorily 
 
 to the comforts of his guests, but I am in the cabin of a 
 
 ship, and the ship is ploughing her way through the waves of 
 the stormy Atlantic, on what would certainly be called, a 
 " dirty" night. It seems ridiculous : it is like a story such 
 as we might expect Baron Munchausen to favour us with.
 
 125 
 
 When I recollect at intervals where I am, it makes my intel- 
 lect stand amazed at the superb, the gigantic work of man's 
 science and art which has brought to pass these strange 
 anomalies. Many persons think, I dare say, that it is absurd 
 to talk so, about a great mass of iron — a mere steamer. Such 
 people have never crossed the ocean in the " Great Eastern," or 
 if they have, they didn't deserve to, that's all I can say. 
 
 Tuesday. — This morning brought no sun with it, but on the 
 contrary promised a duller and more disagreeable day than 
 Monday : the wind too gives indications of shifting round, 
 and bringing a beam sea with it, and many are the apprehen- 
 sions that we shall have an increase of rolling, and a conse- 
 quent stoppage of Mr. Jacobs' performance, which has now 
 been announced, by numerous " posters," as intended to take 
 place to-morrow. During the afternoon the decks, and especi- 
 ally the sides of the companion houses, became gorgeous with 
 many coloured bills, of huge size, while smaller ones pervaded 
 the passages below, all announcing the expected arrival of the 
 wizard. Two special bills were made out for the occasion, and 
 appeared pasted on one of the mirrors in the grand saloon, and 
 also in the smoking room. In the evening we again had some 
 music, though as yet no regular programme was carried out. 
 
 Thursday, 2Srd. — Yesterday morning found our anticipations 
 of increased motion realized, the ship was rolling decidedly 
 more than previously, and there was every prospect of the 
 weather becoming worse. But the wizard was not to be 
 intimidated, and all day long there was a continuous proces- 
 sion of men carrying benches, flags, and lamps, along the 
 decks, the whole being eugulphed in the hatchway leading 
 to the after-cargo space, where Mr. Jacobs intended to perform. 
 Although our noble ship is most assuredly rolling, and at 
 times pretty heavily, yet no one is sick ; there is none of 
 that horrid heave, which is experienced in ordinary vessels, 
 the deck merely tilts up, first one way and then the other, smd
 
 126 
 
 causes no unpleasant sensation whatever, the only inconveni- 
 ence being, the falling down of unsecured articles. We have, 
 moreover, the consolation of knowing that any other ship 
 would be pitching violently, and more than half her passen- 
 gers sick, while the " Grreat Eastern" has never pitched a foot. 
 At dinner and tea, the staple subject of conversation was, of 
 course, the approaching entertainment, and at 8 o'clock I ad- 
 journed to the " Theatre." I found a "large and fashionable" 
 audience assembled, all the passengers being present, and such 
 of the officers as could be spared from duty, these occupying 
 the front seats, while the back part was densely crowded by 
 sailors, stewards, &c. The " Theatre" was a fine large hall, 
 eighty feet by sixty, and fourteen feet high, and was elegantly 
 decorated with flags, while from the roof hung a handsome 
 chandelier, and «i whole army of globe lamps, the engine rooms 
 being despoiled of their lights, and left in darkness. In front 
 of the stage was a row of foot lights, and a large mast head 
 lamp, mounted on a chair. The stage was unfortunately fitted 
 up at the side of the vessel, so that it was subjected to a far 
 greater amount of motion, than if it had been placed against 
 the tranverse bulkhead. The band occupied a corner at the 
 left hand side of the stage, and after an overture, the curtain 
 drew up and discovered the Wizard surrounded by all his para- 
 phernalia just as I had seen him in New York. His trouble 
 in unpacking and arranging all his things must have been 
 immense, and we all felt that he was deserving of great praise, 
 in taking so much trouble, for the amusement of his fellow- 
 passengers, and the benefit of a public charity. I forget to 
 mention that the entire proceeds of the entertainment were 
 devoted to the " Dread naught" Hospital Ship. The perform- 
 ance proceeded with great success, the Wizard being assisted 
 by his brother, who, in the character of an attendant Goblin, 
 though in costume a " Buttons," contributed largely to the 
 fun of the evening, by exciting laughter as well as wonder.
 
 127 
 
 Meanwhile our motion still increased, and every now and then, 
 during a heavier roll than usual, all breaths were held in the 
 fear of some portion of the costly apparatus coming down : 
 indeed my apprehensions of an accident, not only spoiled my 
 enjoyment, but were fated to be realized, in the overthrow of 
 a very ingenious and elaborate piece of mechanism, called 
 the *' Liliput Tavern," a sort of improvement on the inex- 
 haustible bottle. But the Wizard took everything with the 
 utmost good humour, and indeed, did not seem to be half as 
 much discomposed, as his audience. How some of his tricks, 
 difficult at all times, and almost impossible under existing, or 
 rather rolling circumstances, were got through, I cannot 
 imagine ; but all went off without any further mishap. At 
 the conclusion, Captain Hall got up, and proposed three 
 cheers for Mr. Jacobs, which were given with a will, and the 
 Wizard was bowing his acknowledgments, when the " Great 
 Eastern" joined in the enthusiasm and gave a tremendous 
 lurch, which sent us all bowing involuntarily, and produced 
 an indiscriminate crash behind the scenes. As the crowd was 
 at the moment engaged in making its way out of the Theatre, 
 the confused heap into which all were thrown was decidedly 
 amusing. I had the end of a bass fiddle stuck into my eye, 
 but no one was hurt, and as the crash behind the cui-tain had 
 been caused by the falling of some packing cases, and did not 
 result in any breakage, we had a good laugh over the adven- 
 ture. We were soon dispersed to our homes, the ladies for 
 the most part retiring to bed : while the gentlemen proceeded 
 to their favomite resort, the smoking room. 
 
 Mr. Jacobs' apparatus having suffered damage to the 
 amount of some 10 or 12£., we proposed to him that the 
 proceeds of the entertainment should in the fii-st place be 
 applied to repairing the damage, and if any surplus remained, 
 that it should be given to the charity, but he would not 
 consent to it, although urgently pressed to do so — so we made
 
 128 
 
 up a subscription to present him with a silver or gold snuff-box, 
 on our arrival, and I suppose and hope that it wiU be done.* 
 London, Monday. — Thursday was the climax of our bad 
 weather, we had a soaking rain^ and a heavy rolling sea. 
 From the lofty deck of this ernomous vessel it is impossible 
 to estimate the size of the waves : it was only on descending 
 to the lower deck, and looking from the ports, that I could 
 tell through what a formidable sea we were cutting our way. 
 The wind was favourable^ and we had all our sails set; except 
 the after main try sail, our speed being, for a considerable 
 time, sixteen and a half knots an hour, (nearly nineteen miles,) 
 the highest rate of speed which the vessel has ever made. 
 What a shame it is that so disgraceful a deck should have 
 been put upon this noble ship ; it is to be renewed before she 
 goes to sea again, and for very sufficient reason. During the 
 morning we had a continual drip, drip, upon the carpet, and 
 down the beautiful mirrors of the grand saloon, and a thick 
 tarpaulin had to be spread all over the deck at that point to 
 keep out the wet. The stewards seemed very careless too, and 
 left the sky-lights half open, allowing a perfect deluge to 
 pour down with the roll of the ship, though fortunately, 
 it all went below into the lower deck, and did not injure the 
 hangings, &c. of the upper saloon. During the afternoon, 
 Captain Hall made up a programme for a concert in the 
 evening, several of the passengers, myself among them, 
 contributing to the general harmony. The Captain him- 
 self gave us some airs on the flute, very well played, and 
 with great taste. During the morning of Friday, as I was 
 engaged in fiuisliing a sketch in my spacious cabin, the 
 noise of the screw and the slight vibration caused by it sud- 
 denly ceased, and I, immediately afterward, heard the steam 
 
 * The subscription which amounted to some 30£ was expended in the pur- 
 chase of a ring of gigantic dinaension, bearing a variety of devices, among 
 others, the great ship herself and an appropriate inscription.
 
 129 
 
 . blowing off. I of course supposed we had stopped altogether, 
 as there was not the slightest sound or vibration, and my 
 astonishment was great, on looking out of the window, to 
 see the paddles in full play. Owing to some trifling derange- 
 ment, our screw had to be stopped for a few hours, and so 
 easily did the paddle engines work, that, as I before said, 
 their motion was absolutely imperceptible in my cabin, only 
 about forty feet removed from the paddle wheel. In the 
 evening we had another concert in the saloon, Mr. Jacobs 
 amusing the company, vastly, with a display of his wonder- 
 ful power as a ventriloquist. On Saturday we observed smoke 
 a-head, which was found to be that of the " Australasian," 
 which left New York in company with us, and which had 
 passed us during our stay at Halifax. We were now rapidly 
 overtaking her, and by evening, she was far astern. This 
 was to be our last night at sea, as we expected to reach 
 Milford Haven the following afternoon. A lottery was 
 formed amongst some of the passengers, Ithe tickets being ten 
 shillings each, and having marked on them the hours. The 
 holder of the hour at which the pilot should come on board 
 was to be the winner. A meeting was also held of the pas- 
 sengers, and an address drawn up for presentation to the 
 Captain, expressive of our great satisfaction with the accom- 
 modation, and general qualities of the noble vessel, and also 
 our sense of the courtesy and attention shown by the Captain 
 and Officers. One or two grumblers, who had not found the 
 cuisine according to their extremely delicate palates, had the 
 stupidity, and bad taste not to sign the address. But their 
 signatures were not missed. Early on Sunday morning, we 
 sighted the Irish coast, and before breakfast was over had 
 left it for astern, and were steaming across the Irish sea. * 
 The morning service was read in the grand saloon at eleven 
 o'clock, and at three we dined. After dinner we all betook 
 ourselves to the paddle-box, to watch for the arrival of the 
 
 17
 
 130 
 
 pilot : the bold rocky headlands at the entrance to Milford 
 Haven, haying been visible before dinner, and now close to 
 us. At length a little boat was seen making for the ship, and 
 all the holders of tickets, whose time had not already gone 
 by, rushed to the entrance gangway, watch in hand. The poor 
 man seemed quite bewildered and frightened as he looked up 
 at the enormous fabric, towering above his little boat ; the 
 responsibility of having to guide her safely in, seemed 
 to crush his faculties. His bewilderment was decidedly 
 not lessened by the excitement caused by his arrival, and 
 lie gazed at the crowd of passengers with a glazed eye, little 
 di'eaming that the step of his foot on deck, decided the 
 ownership of some 19 or 20 £. From him we learnt that the 
 whole Channel Fleet lay at Milford, and that we should have 
 to pass through them on our way to the anchorage. Wg 
 proceeded at half speed, and soon a steamer was seen coming 
 to meet us. She came under our stern, and then kept us 
 company up to the anchorage, the people on board giving us 
 liearly cheers. The harbour of Milford Haven stretches a 
 considerable distance inland, and winds amongst lofty hills, 
 on turning the base of one of which, we discovered the fleet 
 at anchor. AVe had not expected any further recognition 
 than the dipping of the ensign, and were astonished on draw- 
 ing near the first ship, a frigate, to see her crew clustered all 
 over every part of the rigging up to the very trucks. As 
 we came alongside, a tremendous clieer burst from the crew 
 of the frigate, her band at the same moment striking up Rule 
 Britannia, and her ensign descending in courteous salutation. 
 We were so taken aback that wo stared in speechless wonder, 
 and could not find breath to reply ; but on looking ahead, and 
 seeing the whole fleet evidently prepared to pay us the same 
 complement, wo shouted for our band, who tumbled up in 
 haste, while the Captain and Mr. Bold (the flnancial mana- 
 ger) took up their stations on the summit of the paddle-box,
 
 131 
 
 to lead off our intended response. The same enthusiastic 
 welcome was given us by the next ship, the " Algiers," 91, 
 and this time we replied to the best of our ability, our band 
 playing " God save the Queen." And so we passed through 
 the fleet,, each ship giving us a more enthusiastic welcome 
 than another, the sailors in several instances, standing on the 
 trucks and waving their hats. The fleet numbered eleven 
 line-of-battle ships and two or three frigates, among the 
 former, the "Eoyal Albert," 121, besides several of ninety- 
 one guns ; yet all were dwarfed to an insignificant size by 
 comparison with the " Great Eastern ;" whose tonnage indeed 
 is nearly equal to that of the entire fleet. The hill above 
 Pembroke was black with people, and considering the state to 
 which our throats had been reduced, it was fortunate that 
 their distance from us, precluded the possibility of exchanging 
 any more shouting. We dropped our anchor, and saluted 
 with four guns soon after six, and thus ended our voyage, 
 which has been the most delightful I ever made. I felt sorry 
 when the huge anchor plunged into the water. I could have 
 enjoyed weeks more of the sea, under such circumstances, as 
 those of our " Great Eastern" trip. 
 
 Most of the passengers preferred remaining on board till 
 morning to enduring the discomforts of a railway journey by 
 night, and we accordingly passed our last evening on the 
 " Great Eastern," without any diminution of our numbers. 
 The Great Western Railway Company had provided a special 
 train to carry us through to London at reduced rate of fare, 
 and accelerated rate of speed, starting at nine the following 
 morning. There was some difficulty about the anchorage in 
 the course of the evening, and a small tug was fastened to 
 our stern, for the purpose of towing it round, a little way. 
 It might as well have tried to tow round Ireland, the funnel 
 of the thing got red hot, and we all expected it to blow up, 
 but not an inch could it move the ship ; the difficulty,I believe,
 
 132 
 
 was got over towards morning, by anchoring from the stern. 
 I shall not here enter into any discussion as to the relative 
 length of our voyage, or the speed of the ship ; suffice it to 
 say, that she is beyond all comparison superior to any vessel 
 afloat in comfort, beauty, size, and safety, and quite equal to 
 any in point of speed. Moreover, she can keep up her speed 
 in all sorts of weather, a head sea makes no difference to her, 
 and where an ordinary steamer would be pitching and tossing 
 on her way at about seven or eight knots an hour, the 
 " Great Eastern" cuts through the most formidable waves, at 
 nearly her full speed. 
 
 After a hasty breakfast on Monday morning, we embarked 
 in the tug, which had been pulling vainly at us during the 
 night, and shoved off, having previously taken leave of the 
 good Captain, and such of his officers as were known to each 
 of us. I was fortunate enough to make the acquaintance of 
 several, and can safely say that I never met on any vessel, so 
 pleasant and gentlemanly a set. As we steamed rapidly 
 away, we saw Captain Hall standing at the stern waving his 
 cap in adieu, but he soon became invisible, and in quarter of 
 an hour we landed at the Eailway Station. Here we found 
 our " special" waiting for us, the engine gaily bedecked with 
 the British and American flags, and " Welcome to the Great 
 Eastern." We did not get off till near ten, but so perfect 
 were the arrangements, that we were not delayed once, 
 beyond the places at which we stopped for water, and reached 
 London, a distance of 800 miles in sis hours, somewhat 
 astonishing our American passengers.
 
 NOTES OF A SHOKT TOIJE THEOUGH THE 
 NOETHERN PRESIDENCIES.
 
 Organ in Bombay Cithedral.
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Madras to Eeypore. Voyage to Bombay. Bombay. Colaba Church. 
 Cathedral. 
 
 The scenery on the Madras Railway between Madias and 
 Coimbatore is not particulary interesting, and is moreover so 
 well known as to need no description, which is perhaps 
 fortunate, seeing that the train in which the writer of 
 these notes travelled to Beypore passed over that portion 
 of the route by night, and he is consequently not in a posi- 
 tion to record his impressions of much outside the railway 
 carriage. It is an awful thing for a lone bachelor to find 
 himself, as I did, shut up for the night with a family party, 
 including an ayah and a baby in arms ; but the next com- 
 partment (a coupe) being found to be empty, on reaching 
 Areot, the paterfamilias and I adjourned thither, and dined 
 toirether to our mutual satisfaction. As neither of us was 
 aware of the contrivance by which the back of the seat turns 
 up and forms a sort of upper " berth," we passed the night 
 without much comfort, sitting bolt upright in our respective 
 corners. After passing Coimbatore, the train runs close 
 under the spurs of the Neilgherries and the Koondahs, and 
 many beautiful peeps of the hills may be had, though the 
 rate at which the train descends the steep incline to Pal- 
 ghaut, renders it difficult to form much idea of the scenery. 
 Before reaching Beypore, the Ponany river is passed on the 
 left, and the Wynaad range becomes visible on the right :
 
 134 
 
 but, althongli the railway skirts the const for a considerable 
 distance, the sea is not visible till within some four miles of 
 Beypore, at which point a wide creek is crossed by a re- 
 markably shaky-looking wooden bridge which creaks and 
 p-i'oans under the train in an ominous manner. A new iron 
 girder bridge is in course of construction at this place, and 
 the works are under the care of the Superintending Engi- 
 neer of the line in the district, Mr. Wilkinson, who has a 
 very nice bungalow, prettil}^ situated on a hill overlooking 
 the creek, and commanding a fine view of the sea and the 
 distant hills. It was my extreme good fortune to be the 
 guest of this gentleman during the five days I had to wait 
 for that fast sailing craft the British India Steam Naviga- 
 tion Co.'s steamship " Burmah." Beypore is some four 
 miles be3''ond the bridge, and consists almost entirely of the 
 houses, &c. in connection with the Eailway. There is a 
 hotel over the station and a reading room for the use of the 
 Railway employes, which is, on Sunday, used as a church. 
 For tliis, however, the Railway Company are not to be 
 thanked, as no provision for the performance of any service 
 is made by them ; and the service which is performed every 
 Sunday is read by Mi". Wilkinson, who also plays the har- 
 monium, and has organized the whole thing entirely on his 
 own responsibility. Should he by any chance leave Beypore, 
 there would, in all probability, be no attempt to remind the 
 people that they are professedl}"- Christians, unless the 
 Chaplain of Calicut should come over now and then. Under 
 the {)resent arrangement, he visits Beypore, I think, once in 
 two months, and celebrates the Holy Communion. 
 
 The most unj)leasantpart of the whole journey to Bombay 
 is the getting off to the steamer at Beypore. 'J'he boats are 
 large clumsy nffdrs, and have no raised seats like the Madras 
 masulah boats, nor the vestige of an awning. Our party 
 were huddled together with the luggage and the servants and
 
 135 
 
 the water, and I might add the dirt, in the bottom of the 
 boat, and a pull of good three miles under such circumstan- 
 ces, with a blazing sun overhead and nasty swell on, suffi- 
 cient to knock the boat about a good deal, was anything but 
 pleasant. The "Burraah," although shamefully slow, is a 
 very comfortable vessel of about 1,000 tons. Her cabins are 
 all under the poop, on each side of the saloon, and are very 
 prettily fitted up ; and there was notliing to complain of 
 except the attendance at table, which was simply nil, and ' 
 those who had not their own servants must have starved. 
 The voyage to Bombay would be pleasant were it not ren- 
 dered tedious by the number of stoppages at different places 
 on the coast ; few of which could be seen to any purpose, on 
 account of our anchoring so far from the shore. One place 
 was however an exception. At Carwar we anchored in a 
 very pretty little harbour, shut in by hills, and with several 
 islands at the entrance, on one of which is a light-house. 
 It was intended that kino; cotton should have done f^reat 
 things for Carwar, and the place was supposed to be a sort 
 of infant Bombay : these ideas however do not seem to have 
 been confirmed. 
 
 Bombay harbour has been so often described that it needs 
 no description here, and indeed I had been able to form a 
 very fair idea of its appearance. There is an appearance of life 
 and activity and money-making, which is very different to 
 the somewhat sleepy aspect of Madras. The harbour was 
 crowded with shipping, the usual number of vessels being 
 augmented by the transports engaged for the Abyssinian 
 Expedition ; and on shore, the gas-lamps, and English omni- 
 buses, tlie height of the houses, some seven or eight stories, 
 and the comparative absence of vile smells are features for 
 which we look in vain in Madras. The two most prominent 
 buildings on entering the harbour, are S. John's Church on 
 Colaba Point, and S. Thomas' Cathedral in the Fort, or
 
 136 
 
 rather what once was the Fort, as all the fortifications, &c. 
 have been entirely removed, and it is now merely a quarter 
 of the city, separated from the remainder by the Esplanade. 
 Of the Bombay churches I visited four, namely the Cathe- 
 dral, Colaba Church, Byculla Church, and Trinity Chapel. 
 Colaba Church is, I fancy, the finest cliurch in India, and 
 as such merits notice before the others. It is situated near 
 the end of a long tongue of land which forms the north wes- 
 tern boundary of the entrance to the harbour, and was built 
 as a memorial church to those officers of the Bombay army 
 who fell in 1857 ; at least I think this was the case.* The 
 church consists of a nave eight bays in length, with aisles 
 and a clerestory, and a chancel of three bays, without aisles ; 
 the tower and spire being at what should be the western 
 end of the north aisle of the nave. The church however is 
 built with the chancel at the west end. The exterior is 
 spoilt by the glass in the windows being brought forward 
 almost level with the wall, and there is not, except on the 
 west or rather east front, enough decoration in the shape of 
 mouldings, drip-stones, &c. My sketch will give a rough 
 idea of the front, although, being drawn almost entirely from 
 memor}^ it is in some respects incorrect, especially the 
 carriage porch. The spire is a considerable height, close 
 upon 200 feet, if not more, and is, together with the 
 whole church outside and in, entirely of stone. The inte- 
 rior is really striking, and infinitely more ecclesiastical in 
 appearance than any other church I have seen in India. 
 In the first place it is very large ; the nave must be at least 
 120 feet long, and the chancel upwards of SO, while the 
 height to the ridge of the roof cannot be far short of 70 feet. 
 The arches, especially the chancel arch, are supported on 
 very solid clustered columns, the details of which are how- 
 ever very clumsy and faulty in design. The general style 
 is early English, and the aisle windows are all lancets 
 
 ■* This Is a mistake. The church ^Yas erected as a memorial of the officers 
 and privates who fell ia the Affghan war.
 
 137 
 
 arranged in triplets, the heads of all being filled with very 
 good stained glass, and the lower part with Venetians. The 
 walls of the aisles are arcaded throughout their entire 
 length, something like the west front, and the clerestory 
 windows are lancets arranged in pairs and filled with cathe- 
 dral glass. The west window (it is convenient to speak as 
 though the church stood east) is a triplet and is tilled with 
 very good stained glass, as are also the east window of the 
 south aisle, and a window near the Font. The organ stands 
 at the east end of the north aisle, and hides the window on 
 that side. The chancel is lighted by three large single lan- 
 cets on each side, filled with cathedral glass, and a large five 
 light geometrical window over the Altar. This window is 
 in a far later style than the rest of the church, but it does 
 not look at all offensive on that account, and is perhaps 
 better adapted for the display of the excellent stained glass 
 with which it is filled. The centre light represents at the 
 foot, the Crucifixion, and above, our Lord seated in majesty. 
 A large piece of "the glass in the centre of this figure has 
 fallen out, and although a new piece to replace it has been 
 in the hands of some " Department " or other for a long 
 time, the chaplain has failed to induce the authorities to 
 have the window mended. The sill of this window, as well 
 as the side windows of the chancel, is at least 20 feet above 
 the floor, and the side walls beneath the windows are deco- 
 rated with arcading within which are illuminated the names 
 of the officers in whose memory the church was built. The 
 shafts supporting this arcading are of polished marble, and 
 the wall surface, below, is decorated in polychrome. Unfor- 
 tunately the space beneath the east window is an eye-sore. 
 It consists of three arches filled in with open brick-work, 
 such as may be seen in godowns, and beyond is a vestry, 
 built in that charming style with which we in India are so 
 familiar.
 
 138 
 
 It is intended, I believe, that a reredos shall be erected 
 when funds are forthcoming ; at present the only decoration 
 behind the altar is, or was, a large red cross, which originally 
 formed part of the Christmas decorations. 
 
 The altar itself is very small and unworthy of so fine a 
 church, but were it a little more raised, and backed by a 
 handsome i-eredos, the east end would possess great dignity, 
 as the wliole of the constructional chancel is reserved as sanc- 
 tuary, and contains only three sedilia of carved wood. The 
 pulpit, a stone one of rather commonplace design, is fixed 
 against tlie first pillar of the nave, and the piayer-desk is 
 opj>osite ; the choir seats being between these and the chancel 
 arch, the organ, as befoie stated, occupying the corresponding 
 bay of the aisle. The seats for the congregaticm occupy the 
 next five bays, and at the second pillar from the entrance a 
 very liandsome rood-screen extends across the nave, leaving 
 the two end bays empty, and as a sort of ante-chapel. This 
 screen ought, in my opinion, to have been placed between 
 the pulpit and prayer-desk, although it is seen to greater ad- 
 vantage wheie it is. It is of wrought iron, gilded and paint- 
 ed, and was entirely executed in the Bombay school of arts, 
 to which institution it does great credit. I had nearly for- 
 gotten to mention that the floor of tlie sanctuary is laid with 
 encaustic tiles of a rich pattern, harmonizing with the paint- 
 ing of the walls. 
 
 Most unfortunately the chaplain has been unable, as yet, 
 to get up a surpliced choir, and the singing is in the hands 
 of a volunteer choir, of which ladies are members. The 
 organ is a very fair instrument by Holdich, I think. It has 
 two rows of keys, a tenor C swell of seven stops, great organ 
 of eight stops, and pedal bourdon, but was so friglitfuUy 
 out of order that it was impossible to make much of it. The 
 church is excellent for sound, that is, lor musical sound, as 
 I fancy preachers have hard work to make themselves heard.
 
 139 
 
 The great fault of the church i,s, that it is simply a repro- 
 duction of a large English parish church, without one single 
 feature to adapt it to the climate of this countr3^ 
 
 It is to be feared that my description of Oolaba Church 
 does it as little justice as my sketch of the West Front and 
 the screen — but it must be remembered that both are from 
 memory, and imperfections will, I hope, be pardoned. The 
 Cathedral of Bombay is dedicated to S. Thomas, and is, 
 externally, something like S. Mary's Church in the Fort at 
 Madras, although considerably larger. The tower was, some 
 thirty years ago, gothicised in the strictest meaning of the 
 word, and a quasi gothic lantern added to it. Three or 
 four years ago, a scheme was set on foot for entirely remo- 
 delling the whole church, which, as it then stood, consisted 
 merely of a nave and aisles covered with a bomb-proof 
 vaulting, a tower at the west end, but not the vestige of a 
 chancel. It was proposed to erect a chancel with an organ 
 chamber on the south side and a sacristy on the north, the 
 east end being apsidal : and also to surround the entire build- 
 ing with verandahs, remodelling the windows and details. 
 An entirely new west front was proposed, and a new tower 
 and spire was to be erected, in the same style as the other 
 alterations, namely, an adaptation of early English, with 
 something of a French character about it. 
 
 Most unfortunately, however, the funds ran short, and 
 after the erection of the chancel and organ chamber, together 
 with the purchase of anew organ, the woi'k came to a stand- 
 still, and so remains. The nave, which is in its original 
 state, although built of brick plastered, is very massive, and 
 might easily be made church-like by the application of a 
 little judicious ornamentation : indeed an attempt has been 
 made in this direction at the western entrance, where a hand- 
 some Norman arch has been built of stone — and the floor, 
 under the tower, laid with encaustic tiles. There is also a
 
 140 
 
 very handsome pair of gates made of wrought iron, coloured 
 and gilded. In the north corner stands a beautiful font of 
 carved stone. The bowl is circular, and is enriched with 
 medallions, containing different subjects, oae of which, is I 
 think, our Lord's Baptism. The font is supported on pillars 
 with polished granite .shafts and carved stone capitals, and 
 would be an ornament to any church. It was made in 
 London, and was presented to the Cathedral at the time the 
 alterations were in progress. The interior of the nave and 
 aisles is coated with chunam, but of a quality far inferior to 
 that used in Madras, and as there is no clerestory, and the 
 pillars supporting the roof are very large and heavy, the 
 effect is decidedly gloomy. The new chancel opens into the 
 nave by a gothic arch, which, together with all the new work, 
 is of stone, and springs from columns of polished granite 
 supported on corbels about 10 feet from the floor. The 
 organ chamber opens into the south aisle by a similar arch, 
 which is entirely filled with the decorated front of the 
 organ. The windows of the apse are arranged in two tiers ; 
 and are decorated with small columns of polished granite, the 
 vaulting of the roof being supported on larger shafts of the 
 same material between the windows. The apse is, I think, 
 nine-sided, and there are consequently 18 windows, which 
 will be filled with stained glass when the funds are forth- 
 coming — at present they are filled with white calico. The 
 whole of the chancel, apse and organ chamber are roofed 
 with a stone vaulting with richly moulded ribs, the plain 
 surface of the vaulting being relieved by bands of grey 
 stone. 
 
 Between the apse, which serves as sanctuary, and the 
 chancel, there is an arch similar to that between the nave 
 and chancel, and a third similar arch opens into the organ 
 chamber. The sanctuary is raised three steps above the 
 chancel, which is itself two steps above the nave : the altar
 
 141 
 
 is consequently well raised, although it does not stand on a 
 foot pace. Bound the apse, under the windows, there is an 
 arcading intended to open into a verandah, but as this ve- 
 randah is not yet built, the arcading has been filled in, and 
 the only attempt at a reredos is the introduction of a little 
 extra carving, and diaper work in the arches just behind the 
 altar. Unfortunately, the funds available have been insuflB.- 
 cient to provide proper furniture for the sanctuary and chancel, 
 and the choir seats, &c., are all temporary. The altar is of 
 wood, and very solid, it has only one rather shabby-looking 
 red cloth cover ; and behind it is a shelf on which stand two 
 brass candlesticks. The candles in these are lit at evening 
 service. The pulpit and prayer-desk are in the nave, opposite 
 each other. They are both of carved stone, but the pulpit 
 is far too high and large, and the desk faces ivest. 
 
 The Bishop's throne is in the south aisle, and consists of 
 a chair and desk of dark colored wood, carved according to 
 a design which seems to have been made by one of those 
 people who think that nothing can truly be gothic in cha- 
 racter, unless it bristles all over with spikes and little pinna- 
 cles. 
 
 The seats between the pulpit and desk, and the chancel 
 face north and south, as in the Cathedral at Madras, and in 
 the north aisle is placed the old organ. This instrument 
 contains 2 rows of keys, viz., a great organ of 8 stops and a 
 tenor C swell also of 8 stops, and has 2|- octaves of Bourdon 
 pedal pipes. It probably was a very fair instrument when 
 in order, but it is now in a wretched condition. The new 
 organ is the largest, and in some respects the finest, organ 
 in India. The lower part of the case is of oak, and the 
 upper part consists of open iron work beautifully wrought 
 and gilded, supporting the large metal pipes. The front of 
 the organ faces the chancel, but as the instrument stands 
 back near the wall, the chancel front is not much seen, and
 
 142 
 
 the principal decorations have been expended on the side 
 facing the ajsle. This is exceedingly handsome, and is made 
 up of the large metal pedal open diapason, the longest pipe 
 being 16 feet in length and aboub 11 inches in diameter. 
 All the interior work of the organ is excellent, the metal 
 pipes, including the 1 6 feet diapason, being all of spotted 
 metal and the wooden pipes of mahogany. The chief excel- 
 lence of the instrument is the splendid pedal organ of 6 stops, 
 and it is in this and in the possession of a C C swell that 
 the organ excels any other in this country. The tone is 
 sweet but not very powerful, the organ in the Madras 
 Cathedral being certainly far more powerful and brilliant. 
 For the sake of those learned in such matters, I give a list 
 of the stops of the Bombay organ, which is, I think, correct. 
 I had nearly forgotten to mention that the organ was built 
 by Bishop, and cost £1,500, a large sum considering the 
 number of stops. 
 
 Great organ. 
 
 Open diapason 8 feet. 
 
 BellGamba 8 feet. 
 
 Stopt bass, clarabella 
 
 treble 8 feet tone. 
 
 Principal 4 feet. 
 
 Flute 4 feet. 
 
 Twelfth 3 feet. 
 
 Fifteenth 2 feet. 
 
 Sesquialtera... 3 ranks. 
 Trumpet 8 feet. 
 
 Swell organ. 
 
 Bourdon. 16 feet tone 
 
 Open diapason 8 feet, 
 
 Stopt diapason 8 feet tone 
 
 Principal 4 feet. 
 
 Choir organ 
 
 Fifteenth 2 feet. 
 
 Oboe 8 feet. 
 
 Cornopean 8 feet. 
 
 Stopt bass, clarionet 
 
 Flute 8 feet tone. 
 
 Keraulophon (Tenor 
 
 C) 8 feet. 
 
 Dulciana 8 feet. 
 
 Flute 4 feet tone. 
 
 Principal 4 feet. 
 
 Piccolo 2 feet. 
 
 Clarionet (TenorC) 8 feet 
 tone.
 
 143 
 
 Pedal organ. 
 
 Principal metal... 8 feet. 
 Fifteenth metal... 4 feet. 
 Bombardon metal. 16 feet. 
 
 Stopt Bass (wood)... 16 feet tone. 
 Open Bass (wood)... 16 feet. 
 Open Bass (metal)...! 6 feet. 
 
 There are 7 couplers and 9 composition pedals. I was 
 unable to attend a morning service in the Cathedral, but 
 was present at evensong several times. There is a large 
 surpliced choir numbering some 18 or 20 boys, and about 
 10 or a dozen men, chiefly volunteers. At present there is 
 no paid organist, and it is doubtful whether the funds at 
 the disposal of the Cathedral authorities will enable them 
 to engage one for some time. Meanwhile they have been 
 most fortunate in finding several gentlemen willing to act 
 as organist, and as a choir master is provided, things have 
 gone on veiy creditably. The chanting of the psalms was 
 decidedly good, and the whole service done " decently and 
 in order." There was, at one time, a weekly celebration in 
 the Cathedral, but to the great disgrace of the authorities, 
 this has been given up. It is difficult to understand what 
 excuse can be given for such a course, unless indeed the 
 congregation refused to attend, in which case the disgrace 
 rests on their shoulders. I had foi'gotten to mention that 
 there is a library belonging to the Cathedral. This oc- 
 cupies a room over the vestry, at the west end of the south 
 aisle. 
 
 Bombay Cathedral is so closely surrounded by very tall 
 houses that, even if the proposed alterations were carried 
 into effect, it would not be an imposing building. Its pre- 
 sent external appearance is most deplorable. The small en- 
 closure in which it stands is full of dirt and rubbish, in the 
 midst of which, opposite the west door, is a handsome foun- 
 tain, looking strangely out of place. The external wooden 
 roof of the apse is not finished, and the vaulting is covered 
 with mats and tarpaulin, as a defence from the destructive
 
 144 
 
 effects of the weather. Just behind the Cathedral are the 
 enormously tall new buildings which compose the " Elphin- 
 stone Circle'^ — and the contrast between their spruce and 
 bright appearance, and the dreary and ruinous aspect of the 
 Cathedral, suggests that in Bombay the worship of Mammon 
 is more cared for than that of God. 
 
 The design of the Elphinstone circle is very far from fault- 
 less, and I believe the construction of the houses is far from 
 solid, but they are faced entirely with stone, and, together 
 with the Town Hall, make up a piece of street scenery by 
 no means despicable. The High Court is also in the Fort, 
 but is a most wretched-looking building — and the same re- 
 marks may apply to the Kirk in connection with the Scot- 
 tish Establishment. 
 
 Byculla Church is somewhat in the style of Christ Church, 
 in the Mount Road at Madras, though far more decently 
 arranged. There is no chancel, but the altar stands in a 
 recess at the east end. It is of very fair size, and I think 
 there is a credence table. 
 
 The organ (a small instrument) is in the west gallery. 
 
 The service is of the "good old Protestant" type, and the 
 
 singing, considering that nearly all the boys of the Byculla 
 
 School always attend the church, cannot be commended. 
 
 The chaplain has, ready to his hand, all the materials for 
 
 getting up an excellent choir, but it does not seem to be 
 
 considered worth while. Trinity Chapel is situated in the 
 
 very heart of the most populous part of the city, and is, 
 
 externally and internally, by no means ecclesiastical in its 
 
 appearance. In it, however, Catholic truth is boldly taught, 
 
 and in connection with it, a great deal of hard missionary 
 
 work is gone through by its excellent priest — the Rev. C. 
 
 Gilder. It is, I believe, the only church in Bombay where 
 
 there is a weekly celebration of the Holy Communion — and 
 
 although, owing to an utter absence of funds, a regular choir
 
 145 
 
 has not been organized, the very utmost that is possible is 
 done to make the services orderly and decent. 
 
 I attended an early celebration, and observed that th® 
 celebrant (Mr. Gilder) who was assisted by the Rev. C. Kirk 
 occupied his right place at the north side, not the north end 
 of the altar, while the Deacon stood below the foot pace, 
 facing east. I believe that they have occasionally, on festi- 
 vals, had choral celebrations, so far as the limited means at 
 their disposal admitted of. The building itself is merely a 
 large upper room with square windows, wooden pillars, and 
 a gallery at one end, in which at one time stood an organ. 
 This, however, long since became useless, and has been re- 
 moved ; a harmonium is now used, and is placed near the 
 altar. The only other place of worship, in connection with 
 our church, that I could hear of in Bombay, is a small chapel 
 built by the P. and O. Company, near their dockyard at 
 Mazagon, for the use of their employes.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Bombay continued. Towers of Silence. Malabar Hill. Elephanta. 
 Kegatta in the harbour. Bhore Ghaut. 
 
 The Government House of Bombay is situated at Parell, 
 which is quite seven miles from the Fort, and in the neigh- 
 bourhood there are many very nice houses. Government 
 House stands in a large compound at the foot of Parell 
 Hill, from the top of which there is a magnificent view of 
 the harbour. Parell is, however, too far from the business 
 part of Bombay to be the favourite place of residence, and 
 most of those who can afford to pay the enormous rents 
 charged, have houses on Malabar Hill, which is a narrow 
 ridge forming the northern boundary of the now famous 
 *' Back Bay ;" Colaba Point forming the southern boundary 
 and separating the Back Bay from the harbour. At the 
 extreme point of Malabar Hill is a house occupied occa- 
 sionally by the Governor, and very near this on the northern 
 slope of the hill there is a most curious and interesting 
 temple, or rather a small city of temples. The houses and 
 temples are clustered round a large tank, and the lanes inter- 
 secting the crowded mass of buildings are exceedingly pic- 
 turesque. The whole of this little colony is enclosed by 
 walls, and as it stands on the steep slope of the Hill, the 
 streets and lanes consist chiefly of long flights of stairs. 
 What makes this quaint little place seem still more strik- 
 ing is, that the roads and houses on Malabar Hill have 
 an eminently nineteenth century sort of appearance, and
 
 West front of Colal^a rhurcli.
 
 U7 
 
 the sudden plunge out of European civilization into such a 
 very oriental and primitive-looking place as this little city 
 of temples is rather startling. At the other end of the Hill 
 there is another group of buildings of a very different and 
 rather more objectionable nature than these. I refer to the 
 Parsee " Towers of Silence," the presence of which, in the 
 very midst of the principal European residents, cannot be 
 considered other than an intolerable nuisance. The exter- 
 nal appearance of one of these is very much that of a 
 large gasometer painted white. The building is generally 
 about fifty feet high, and perhaps fifty or sixty in diameter, 
 and always circular. On a huge platform some 3 or 4 feet 
 below the parapet, the Parsee dead are exposed to be de- 
 voured by the vultures which sit perched in flocks on the 
 cocoanut and palmyra trees which surround the towers. I 
 fancy that no actual annoyance is caused to the residents, 
 as it is believed that a body seldom remains for more than 
 half an hour. Still the idea is horrible, and the sight of 
 the gorged, disgusting looking vultures is enough to make 
 one sick. 
 
 The, view from the Hill is very fine, extending across 
 Back Bay, and including Colaba Point, Bombay, the har- 
 bour, with its shipping — the islands of Elephanta and Sal- 
 sette, and the distant hills toward Matheran : the situation 
 is very cool and pleasant moreover — but the rents charged 
 for the houses are simply scandalous. For a house which 
 would cost about 80 rupees a month in Madras, no less than 
 500 rupees are paid ou Malabar Hill ; and there is one 
 house which lets for rupees 1,800 a month. 
 
 Few people leave Bombay without paying a visit to the 
 caves of Elephanta, and a very enjoyable trip may be made 
 thither. The island of Elephanta is situated in the harbour, 
 a little above Bombay, and about six miles from the P. and 
 O. Company's dock at Mazagon. It consists of two hills
 
 148 
 
 about 500 feet in height, with a narrow gully between them, 
 and in this the caves are situated. The whole island is 
 thickly wooded, and the pathway up to the entrance of the 
 principal cave is paved with stone, and there are, at inter- 
 vals, long flights of steps. We had a long and somewhat 
 wearisome pull against wind and tide, and when we reach- 
 ed the island, the water was too low to allow the boat 
 to approach within 100 yards of the shore, and we had to 
 be carried ashore in a somewhat undignified fashion. The 
 task of climbing up the steep pathway, or rather staircase, 
 above mentioned, was no joke, in the hot sun, and very 
 thankful we were to reach the cave, which we found de- 
 liciously cool. The principal cave is nearly square, and 
 measures, I should think, some 70 or 80 feet each way. ^'he 
 roof, which is of course the solid rock, is supported by live 
 rows of columns, some of which have fallen, and the height 
 is about 17 or 18 feet. On each side of this cave are other 
 excavations, partly open to the sky, and everywhere there 
 are rude and uncouth carvings of different Hindu deities, 
 which I am not sufficiently " up" in Hindu mythology to 
 describe. I fancy most of the visitors to Elephanta come 
 there, on picnics intent, although an occasional daub of red 
 paint on the figures, especially on one with an elephant's 
 head, seems to indicate that the cave is still resorted to for 
 the purpose of worship. There is a European pensioner in 
 charge of the place, and chairs and tables are provided for 
 those who wish to take tiffin or breakfast. We enjoyed the 
 latter meal immensely, sitting near the entrance, with a 
 glorious view of the harbour and the Island of Salsette 
 before us. We, in Madras, would give something to have 
 so charming a spot within easy reach of us, although the 
 beauty of Elephanta is deceitful to some extent, as the island 
 is so unhealthy, that no one can live there for any length 
 of time. We enjoyed a pleasant sail back to Mazagon, and
 
 149 
 
 therein tasted another of the delights of Bombay, for which 
 we sigh in vain in Madras. The harbour of Bombay is cer- 
 tainly most lovely, and the inhabitants make the most of it, 
 and get as much pleasure out of it as they can. There was 
 a gi-and regatta during my stay, in which all manner of 
 craft, from fine schooner yachts of 200 tons down to canoes, 
 took part. The stewards were fortunate enough to secure 
 the " Queen" (a splendid steamer of 3,500 tons) as the flag- 
 ship, and some 400 invitations were issued to a tifSn or din- 
 ner on board, and a dance afterwards. I fancy however that 
 admissions were not strictly limited to the holders of these 
 tickets. I was never asked for the one I received, and I 
 am sure there must have been nearer than 600 than 400 
 people on board. The result was a desperate scramble after 
 both eatables and drinkables. We did not remain for the 
 dancing, and we heard afterwards that, a considerable quan- 
 tity of champagne having been surreptitiously imbibed by 
 the ship's crew, the proceedings were terminated by some- 
 thing rather approaching the nature of a " shindy." 
 
 Being very anxious to see the works on the -celebrated 
 Bhore Ghaut, we took tickets b}^ tlie morning train for 
 Kandala which is at the head of the incline. The scenery 
 on the line between Bombay and the foot of the ghaut, a 
 distance of 70 miles, is extremely pretty, the hills both near 
 and distant appearing every minute under fresh and more 
 beautiful aspects. At one station (Callian I think) I no- 
 ticed a very pretty little gothic brick building — it is, I be- 
 lieve, a dispensary, and was built from the design of Mr. 
 Paris of Bombay. At present, the lower part of the Bhore 
 Ghaut* incline is impassable for passengers, on account of tho 
 fall of a viaduct, and the train therefore runs, on a level, nine 
 miles beyond the beginning of the incline to a station imme-
 
 -150 
 
 cUately below the reversing station, up to which the passen- 
 gers have to make their way on foot or in palanquins. The 
 break vans and luggage vans however are taken up the in- 
 cline as far as the broken viaduct, where they are conveyed by 
 temporary rails across to the opposite side. Here another en- 
 gine awaits them, and they meet the passengers at the revers- 
 ing station. We were enabled, through one of the Railway 
 officials, to travel in the break van by this route, and thus 
 obtained a view of the whole incline. It is about as exciting 
 a bit of railway travelling as can well be imagined ; tunnels 
 and viaducts succeed each other in quick succession, and 
 every now and then the train skirts the very edge of a pre- 
 cipice 1,000 feet high. The total rise from the foot of the 
 incline to Kandala is some 1,800 feet, and this ascent is ac- 
 complished, when the road is entirely open, in about an hour, 
 the distance being about 14 miles. The engines employed on 
 the incline are of immense power. They have no tenders, 
 the water-tank being over the boiler, and they run on 
 8-coupled wheels. Notwithstanding their power, they occa- 
 sionally stick fast with a heavy train, which was the case 
 with us. We came to a stand-still about a mile below Kan- 
 dala, where the incline is about the steepest, namely, 1 in 35. 
 The horrid thought at once suggested itself : " If we were to 
 run back ? " what then ? We certainly could not get out,for 
 the doors were carefully locked. There is however no real 
 danger, as the powerful breaks used are quite sufficient to 
 keep the train stationary. The view down the Ghaut from 
 Kandala is very beautiful, the numerous viaducts of the 
 Railway adding to its beauty. It seems almost incredible 
 that a train should be able to climb such an ascent, but one 
 soon ceases to wonder at anything now-a-days. I saw two 
 buildings near the station at Kandala which looked like 
 churches, but we had no time to visit them, as we returned 
 to Bombay the same afternoon.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Bombay to Nagpore. Church at Nagpore. Nagpore to Jubbalporc. Marble 
 rocks. Jubbulpore to Allahabad. Church at Allahabad, 
 
 The railway journey from Bombay to Nagpore, a distance 
 of 520 miles, is very fatiguing, occupying, as it does, thirty 
 hours. We ]eft Bombay at 6 P. M., and therefore passed the 
 most interesting part of the line, the Thull Ghaut, at night ; 
 although as it was bright moonlight we were able to make 
 out the general features of the scenery. This incline is very 
 similar to the Bhore Ghaut, the same succession of tunnels, 
 viaducts and fearful-looking abysses — and there is also a 
 reversing station, where two or three years ago a frightful 
 accident happened. A train, having at the top of the incline 
 overshot the commencement of the steep gradient, soon ac- 
 quired a speed which could not be controlled, especially as 
 the engine was not under steam at the time — and on reach- 
 ing the reversing station, the Avhole train leapt over the 
 precipice, and was dashed to atoms. There is one circum- 
 stance whicli lends a pleasing little excitement to the travel- 
 ling on the G.I. P. Kail way, and that is, the knowledge that 
 nearly all the viaducts are unsafe or doubtful. Throughout 
 the latter part of the journey near Nagpore, almost every 
 bridge was under repair, and the train had to pass along 
 temporary rails, down one side of whatever had to be crossed 
 and up the other. Nagpore is decidedly a prepossessing 
 looking place. The roads are excellent and the compounds
 
 152 
 
 large, and well kept — there are also large, spreading trees 
 in abundance. The Church has only recently been conse- 
 crated — and is in some respects a pretty one. It is unfor- 
 tunately only of brick plastered, but the design is by no 
 means bad. It consists of a nave with verandahs, transepts, 
 chancel and tower, (on the south side of the chancel). There 
 is, at the west end, a large carriage porch. The verandahs 
 of the nave are, in effect, aisles with solid looking buttresses, 
 and boldly-moulded arches. They open into the nave by 
 doors. The roofs are of good pitch and are ornamented with 
 an iron cresting — the roof of the porch being nearly as high 
 as that of the nave. The east wall is double and in the 
 inner wall is the east window with an exact fac simile of 
 it, mullions, tracery and all, in the outer. The space between 
 the two is about six feet, and this arrangement is of course 
 designed to shade the window. The tower is not carried 
 higher than the spring of the chancel roof, but is designed 
 to have a tall spire. Internally, the church appears to have 
 been intended to be fitted with choir seats between the 
 transepts, one of which would afford a capital place for an 
 organ. There did not appear to be any provision for a choir 
 however, and the harmonium was placed at the right hand 
 side of the west door. 
 
 The altar is pretty well raised, and the window above it is 
 filled with stained glass representing the Crucifixion. The 
 pulpit is, I think, a stone one, but I am not sure ; indeed 
 our visit to the church was so hurried, that I have by no 
 means done it justice. It has the merit of being lofty, and 
 the roofs are of open woodwork, stained a dark colour. 
 
 Tlie distance from Nagpore to Jubbulpore, where the 
 Railway again becomes available, is about J 60 miles. The 
 road is good and the scenery in some places very pretty, 
 although no where grand. No one can complain of any want 
 of excitement during the journey, seeing that the general
 
 153 
 
 behaviour of Che horses which are supplied to luckless travel- 
 lers by that route, is such as to keep the occupants of the 
 coach in constant anxiety for the safet}'' of their necks. We 
 were fortunate enough to accomplish our journey m.^^Q 
 hours, without an upset ; but two travellers who had left 
 the day before, got a disastrous tumble, their coach rolling 
 over several times and alighting on its roof with the wheels 
 in the air ! A solitary individual, who left Nagpore an hour 
 or so before us, appropriating, I have reason to believe, the 
 conveyance which had been prepared for us, met with a just 
 retribution, for we passed him about a couple of miles beyond 
 Kamptee, sitting helpless in his coach at the foot of the 
 embankment, his horses having dragsced him off the road 
 and down into the fields, whence he had to be dragged up 
 by bullocks. Our coach was comfortable enough, being a 
 wide, roomy palanquin coach with plenty of space for two 
 people to lie at full length. We carried a considerable 
 amount of luggage on the roof, which rendered the whole 
 concern top heavy, and we were on the very verge of an 
 upset more than once. No words can convey any idea of 
 the unmitigated disgust inspired in us by the dreadful 
 character of the horses. We changed them every five miles, 
 but only three or four times did w^e get any that did not 
 either attempt to run off the road, or refuse to proceed at 
 all. I have since heard that we were on the whole fortunate, 
 as sometimes a fire had to be lighted under the horses before 
 they would stir, and that they revenged themselves by just 
 moving far enough to bring the coach comfortably over the 
 fire, and then stopping. We had no time to stop at Kamptee, 
 which is about seven miles from Nagpore. The roads and 
 compounds reminded me of the Luz, or the Adyar at Madras, 
 shady, and well kept. The public gardens also looked very 
 pretty. They are close to the Church, which is, externally,
 
 154 
 
 in the usual D. P. W. style. Internally, however, I believe 
 it is very nicely fitted up with a well raised Altar, choir 
 stalls, and other requisite Church furniture. On this road 
 two rivers have to be passed, the second (the Nerbudda,) 
 which is crossed about four miles before reaching Jubbul- 
 pore, being as yet unbridged. The passage of this river 
 was about the most disagreeable part of the journey: the 
 river was low, and the coach had to be dragged by four 
 bullocks half way across its bed, through deep sand and 
 occasional patches of shallow water, before reaching the deep 
 channel. Here we were, with infinite difficulty, embarked 
 on board a ferry boat, and on disembarking, bullocks again 
 came into requisition to drag us up the steep bank of the 
 river. Our last stage into Jubbulpore was performed with 
 the most abominable pair of horses we had yet seen, they 
 ran away with us down a very steep piece of road, ending 
 in an extremely awkward bridge, on the very edge of which 
 they were most fortunately pulled up. After this display 
 of activity, these charming quadrupeds could only be induced 
 to proceed at a very slow walk the rest of the journey. It 
 took us upwards of an hour to perform the four miles from 
 the Nerbudda to Jubbulpore, which place we reached at 
 about midnight, finding to our intense disgust that our choice 
 of beds lay between the top of the billiard-table, and the 
 floor under it. 
 
 We had unfortunately too little time at our disposal to 
 see much of Jubbulpore, which is, I believe, a favourite 
 station, and judging from what little we did see, deservedly 
 so. The entire day following our arrival was devoted to a 
 visit to the " Marble Eocks." The place that goes by this 
 name is a narrow ravine, through which the Nerbudda flows 
 between perpendicular rocks, some eighty or ninety feet in 
 height, and composed entirely of marble, which, although
 
 155 
 
 weather-stained and black in many places, is very beautiful, 
 especially -when the projecting crags and pinnacles, which 
 resemble those of an iceberg, are lit up by the brilliant sun- 
 light. The " Marble Rocks" are about twelve miles from 
 Jubbulpore, but would be worth going to see, were the 
 distance twice as great. It was late in the afternoon, before 
 we left them, and the scene was quite unlike anything I had 
 before witnessed, as we were rowed along the deep and narrow 
 channel which the river has cut for itself between these 
 perpendicular marble walls. The channel is about half a 
 mile long, and winds considerably, so that we and our boat 
 seemed completely shut in from the outer world. The rays 
 of the declining sun could not penetrate to the surface of 
 the water, which, together with the lower parts of the rock, 
 was shrouded in semi-obscurity — the white marble peaks 
 above shining out with dazzling brilliancy by contrast. I 
 find myself getting quite poetical : the sentiments of that 
 nature, which inspired us in what the guide-books call "The 
 Marble Home of the Nerbudda" did not, however, prevent 
 us from indulging in some brandy and water, the latter 
 fluid being supplied by the Nerbudda itself, and deliciously 
 cool, as if ready iced. 
 
 We left Jubbulpore the day following, by railway for 
 Allahabad. The distance is about 250 miles, and is perform- 
 ed in about 14 hours. The road, which is newly opened, is 
 very good ; but many of the stations are unfinished, and 
 the delays which occurred at most of them were very vexa- 
 tious. Allahabad is situated at the junction of the rivers 
 Ganges and Jumna, and the Eailway is carried across the 
 latter river by means of a magnificent iron girder bridge, 
 nearly a mile in length. There are, on the East Indian 
 Railway, three of these great bridges, much resembling 
 each other. The other two are that which crosses the Jumna
 
 156 
 
 at Delhi, and the celebrated Saone Viaduct, on the line 
 between Benares and Calcutta. We reached Allahabad late 
 on a Saturday evening, and as we had arranged to leave the 
 following day by the afternoon train for Delhi, we had little 
 time to do anj^thin g but go to church. We found the church 
 a plain building, like the church at Byculla, but with a very 
 deep chancel. There is also a wooden rood-screen in a 
 quasi-Gothic style, having a small cross in the centre. The 
 chancel is fitted with choir seats, and clergy stalls, the pulpit 
 being placed outside the screen in the nave. The altar is of 
 good size and well raised, and behind it was a temporary 
 reredos of evergreens, which appeared to be a remnant of 
 the Christmas decorations ; though why remaining up in 
 Lent 1 know not. The east window is iilled with stained 
 glass, the subject of which I forget, and on the south side 
 of the sanctuary, which is railed off and handsomely carpet" 
 ted, are sedilia for the celebrant and his two assistants. The 
 sight of a Credence-table, also reminded us that we were 
 now in the favoured Diocese of Calcutta, where this article 
 of Church furniture must always, by order of the Bishop, be 
 provided. There were a few boys in the lower seats of the 
 chancel, but they were not surpliced ; and the principal part 
 in the singing was taken by a choir of ladies and gentlemen, 
 who occupied the back seats. The service (Morning Prayer, 
 followed by celebration) was not choral — the Canticles only 
 being chanted, and the Te Deum was used, although the 
 season was Lent. The celebrant, I think consecrated in 
 front of the Altar, and there was an immense number of 
 communicants. I need scarcely say that the boys marched 
 out after the Prayer for the Church Militant, but although 
 all the other members of the choir remained, neither the 
 Sanctus nor Gloria in Excelsis were suno;. There is no 
 organ, the singing being accompanied by a harmonium. 
 One would think that in a large station like Allahabad,
 
 157 
 
 funds might easily be obtained for getting a fair-sized organ. 
 There are, I believe, two other churches in the place ; but we 
 could not find time to visit them — indeed, I was unable 
 even to go to the Fort, which is, I understand, worth seeing^ 
 It is close to the bank of the Jumna, which is here a mag- 
 nificent river, a third of a mile or more in width. Allahabad 
 js an important station, and will become more so in future, 
 now that the Government Offices, hitherto at Agra, are to 
 be removed thither ; but it is not by any means a cheerful- 
 looking place, and shady trees, which are so abundant at 
 Nagpore and Kamptee, are here altogether wanting. Our 
 next halting-place was Delhi^ pf which I shall be able to 
 give a more detailed account than this very meagre one of 
 Allahabad. 
 
 19
 
 CHAPTEE IV. 
 
 Delhi — Railway Station — Fort — Palace — Station Church — S. Stephen's 
 Memorial Church. 
 
 The railway journey from Allahabad to Delhi is about as 
 tedious and uninteresting a piece of travelling as need be. 
 The scenery is simply an unvarying and unbroken flat 
 country, by no means well wooded — the speed of the train 
 is not more than 25 miles an hour, the distance of upwards 
 of 500 miles being performed in a little over 20 hours, and 
 the dirt, what with coal dust and ordinary dust, exceeds 
 anything I ever met with on any railway. 
 
 Just before reaching Delhi, the train crosses the Jumna 
 by a magnificent bridge, very similar to that at Allahabad, 
 and immediately enters within the walls of the city, — the 
 contrast between the railway works and the huge masses of 
 dark red stone fortification and gateways, with their very 
 Eastern looking cupolas and kiosks, being very striking. 
 The railway enters the city close to the Fort, and from the 
 windows of the carriage can be seen, on the left, the white 
 marble buildings of the Palace perched on the edge of the 
 walls. The railway station, which is as yet unfinished, is 
 being built in the same style as the old buildings which sur- 
 round it, and will be handsome and substantial, though per- 
 haps unconsciously the architect has imparted a very decided 
 dash of the English mediaeval style to what is probably 
 intended to be oriental : on the other hand, this may have 
 been done on purpose, and if so, with some reason. Close
 
 
 Memorial Church Altar— Delhi.
 
 159 
 
 to the station there is a small church, built, I believe by the 
 Railway Company. It is in a sort of Italian round arched 
 Gothic style — with nave, chancel, and transepts, the chancel 
 and transept both being apsidal. The building is, however, 
 too small and toy-like to be effective. 
 
 To see all that should be seen in and about Delhi would 
 take far more time than we were able to afford, and conse- 
 quently, I have but a hazy idea of the many buildings and 
 places of interest which abound in the city and its environs. 
 The Fort is generally the first resort of visitors, as it contains 
 the celebrated Palace, with which I fancy most people are 
 sadly disappointed. The whole city is entirely surrounded 
 by fortifications, and the Fort is situated at that part which 
 faces the Jumna. Most of the gates of the city, including 
 the now famous Cashmere gate (which was close to our hotel), 
 are small insignificant structures of brick, in some cases faced 
 with red stone ; but the gateways of the Fort are magnifi- 
 cent buildings of red stone, or at least faced with it, and 
 ornamented with marble. They are all much alike, having 
 two lofty octagonal towers, surmounted by white marble 
 cupolas, the gateway being between the towers. The whole 
 structure is so lofty, that although the gateway itself is 
 some^O feet high, there are two or three stories above, all 
 more or less ornaritental. The principal gateway leads into 
 a long vaulted arcade, something like, and nearly as large 
 as, the nave of some Gothic cathedrals. The details however 
 are not exactly those of a Gothic cathedral, being meaning- 
 less and coarse to a degree ; and indeed, after the magnificent 
 gateway, this vaulted hall, or whatever it may be called, is 
 disappointing — and on emerging from it, we found ourselves 
 in a lai-ge open space or esplanade, which appeared to be in a 
 state of chaos. Buildings old, new and unfinished, seemed 
 as though dropped down promiscuously all over the place* 
 but nothing appeared in a finished or orderly state. I confess
 
 160 
 
 to great disappointment with the Palace, - No vestige of a 
 garden remains ; and the buildings are now surrounded by 
 barracks^ and intersected by roads. The principal portion 
 of the Palace consists of three white marble pavilions, which 
 stand in a line on an elevated platform overlooking the 
 river. They are in very good preservation, and display in- 
 ternally much decoratioii in the shape of richly carved marble 
 screens, and beautifully inlaid work : close to these is a 
 beautiful little mosque, with a small court-yard, entirely 
 built of white marble, with the exception of the external 
 walls, which are covered with slabs of red stone. The 
 mosque itself is in the usual form, with three domes and two 
 slender minarets — these being all of the purest white marble 
 with richly gilded finials ; but the whole structure is a mere 
 toy, not measuring more than 40 or 50 feet square, including 
 the court. The great hall, in which stands the famous 
 '' peacock throne," is a very common-place looking building 
 of brick plastered, and is used as a barrack. At one time 
 it was no doubt surrounded, together with tbe marble 
 buildings, by gardens ; but of these no traces remain, the 
 very last tree visible, being cut down on the day of our 
 visit, in order that a report as to the existence of some 
 treasure buried under it, might be verified. I believe that 
 nothing whatever was found. The " peacock throne" stands 
 on one side of the hall, and is made of white marble. It 
 was formerly inlaid with gems, but these have all been 
 picked out, and now that the deed has been done, the throne 
 is enclosed in a species of iron cage, to prevent, it is to be 
 supposed, some one from walking off with it bodily. As, 
 for very shame's sake, I should be sorry to see any descrip- 
 tion, however feeble, of the " Jumma Musjid" or great 
 Mosque of Delhi, figuring on the same page with what I 
 have to say regarding the buildings which the "Sahib Logue" 
 consider good enough for the worship of Almighty God, I
 
 161 
 
 will defer my remarks concerning the mosques, &;c, and 
 endeavour to give some idea of the churches of Delhi. 
 
 I visited two of these, the Station Church, near the Cash- 
 mere gate, and the new Memorial Church, S. Stephen's. 
 The first named of these has been designed, apparently, after 
 Sir Christopher Wren's model of his original design for S. 
 Paul's Cathedral in London, but it is not quite so large as 
 S. Paul's and is built of brick and plaster, instead of stone. 
 The redeeming feature of the exterior is a Luge gilt cross 
 ■which surmounts the dome^ although even this is open to 
 objection, as provoking a contrast between the costly and 
 beautiful marble domes which support the crescent, and the 
 paltry stucco dome which is considered quite gO( d enough 
 to uphold the cross. Internall}' the church is peculiar, to 
 say the least of it. It is circular, but has a small square 
 chancel, with two east windows, between which stands the 
 altar. The ecclesiasticalauthoritics have some sense of decency 
 however, and nothing offensive is to be found in the arrange- 
 ments. There are choir stalls and a harmonium, and of 
 course a credence table. The two east windows, which are 
 common circular-headed windows without mullions or tra- 
 cery, are filled with very curious-looking stained glass. One 
 represents, I think, the Crucifixion, but the general effect 
 of the glass is not good, and at first I thought the pictures 
 were painted on coloured window blinds. I could not discover 
 whether there was a weekly celebration at this church, though 
 I. fear not ; and I do not think there is a surpliced choir. 
 
 The Memorial Church is in every respect far more satis- 
 factory than the other. It is built of brick, with red stone 
 dressings, in the round-arched Italian Gothic style, and has 
 many good features. Externally, it appears as a simple 
 nave with an apsidal termination, verandahs, and small 
 campanile at the west end. The west door is handsome, 
 and so are the verandahs, both being of red stone and rather
 
 162 
 
 profusely decorated with carving ; but the campanile is far 
 too small and plain, and looks more like a factory chimney 
 than anything else. Internally, there is much to commend, 
 and much to condemn, though fortunately the commenda- 
 tion refers to matters the most important. 
 
 There ai-e no aisles, but the verandahs open by large doors 
 into the church, and serve the same purpose. The eastern 
 bay of each is enclosed, and serves on the north side as a 
 vestry, and on the south as an organ chamber, in which is 
 placed the harmonium. There is no chancel screen, nor is 
 the scpaiation between nave and chancel marked, otherwise 
 than by the substitution of small lancet windows (in two 
 tiers), for the doors above mentioned. The altar is of good 
 size, and is backed by a rercdos of white marble, simple, 
 but, on the whole, effective in design. There is a credence- 
 table, and the altar was, on the occasion of our visit, vested 
 in a handsome frontal and super- frontal of dark blue velvet, 
 with orphreys of silver lace. I at first thought that this 
 must be the Lent violet cloth ; but I found that it was the 
 only one the church possessed. 
 
 There is here a surpliced choir, who sing Gregorians with 
 Hindustani words ! 1 did not hear them, but I heard the 
 organist play on the harmonium, — and if the singing is as 
 good as his playing (he was a native lad of 17 or 18), it 
 must be very creditable. At the west end there are two 
 fonts — one made in the shape of a coffin, and of the same 
 size, to typify, I suppose, the " Death unto Sin." It did 
 not appear what distinction was made, or who was baptized 
 in the coffin-shaped font, and who in the other. In an evil 
 moment, the people connected with this church seem to have 
 delivered the interior walls over to the tender mercies of 
 some one who thought he had a talent for mural painting. 
 The result is, that the walls are painted a very ugly light 
 slate colour, and round tlie apse there are coarsely painted
 
 163 
 
 shields, bearing the emblems of the Apostles and Evange- 
 lists. The idea is good, no doubt; but the execution is de- 
 testable. The windows, with the exception of the west 
 window which is circular, are all lancets, and are filled with 
 grissaile glass. On the whole, this little church is something 
 to be thankful for, though I confess that the contrast between 
 our churches and the glorious buildings of the Mahometans 
 in Delhi, and more especially in Agra, made me very savage 
 indeed. I believe there is a weekly celebration in S. 
 Stephen's, and the services are, so far as is possible, choral. 
 I observed moreover that there were no kneeling cushions 
 at the ends of the altar ; but in front of it was a mat, and 
 on the step below two others, so that it may reasonably be 
 presumed that the Priest celebrates " in medio Altaris."
 
 CHAPTER Y. 
 
 Jumrua Musjid — Kootub — Cashmere Gate — Arrival at Agra. 
 
 As these notes were intended to be almost exclusively de- 
 voted to ecclesiastical matters — any detailed description of 
 the many mosques and tombs, in and about Delhi, would be 
 out of place ; some few may, however, be briefly noticed. The 
 great mosque or Jumma Musjid of Delhi is not far from the 
 Fort, from which it is separated by a wide esplanade, which, 
 being planted with fine trees, looks like a park. The mosque, 
 with its spacious court-yard, is elevated on a lofty plat- 
 form, and has a very imposing appearance. The plan is of 
 course the usual one : the court-yard is surrounded on three 
 sides by cloisters, there being a handsome gate- way in the 
 centre of each ; and the fourth side is occupied by the mosque 
 itself. The cloisters and gate-ways are of red stone, but 
 the mosque is inlaid with marble ; its three domes and two 
 lofty minarets being of white marble, the latter relieved by 
 perpendicular bands of red stone. 
 
 The whole country for miles round the city is strewn 
 with the ruins of mosques and tombs — some of the latter 
 can scarcely, indeed, be called ruins ; being, many of them, 
 in a state of almost perfect preservation. The most inte- 
 resting of all these architectural remains are those known as 
 the "Kootub,"* situated about eleven miles from Delhi. 
 
 * So named from the Mahometan Emperor Kootub ud deen, who erected 
 the Miuar as a memorial of his conquest of the Hindus iu the 13th century.
 
 165 
 
 This group of buildings consists of a great mosque, together 
 with several beautiful tombs, and the celebrated Minar, sup- 
 posed to be the loftiest column in India. Tiie mosque 
 exhibits a curious incongruity in its architecture — the great 
 arches being most unmistakeably Mahometan in stylp, while 
 the colonades of the cloisters are supported on pillars which 
 are as unmistakeably Hindoo. The carving on the great 
 central arch is extremely beautiful ; but the whole of this 
 part of the building is in a ver}' decayed state, and threatens 
 a s[)eedy fall. The Minar, which is about 250 feet high, is 
 divided by projecting galleries into five stages, the three 
 lower of which are fluted and of red stone, the two highest 
 being of white marble relieved by stone bands. 
 
 The entire surface of the three lower staofes is covered 
 with carving and inscriptions, remaining as clear and sharp in 
 outline as if cut only a year or two ago. From the top of 
 the Minar the view is wonderful : the whole surface of the 
 country, as far as the eye can reach, being covered with ruin- 
 ed mosques, &c. ; and in several places are to be seen the 
 ruins of entire towns with their fortifications. There is 
 a traveller's bungalow in the enclosure of the Kootub, where 
 we had tiffin, and then j>roceeded to explore the ruins still 
 further on. There is a great drawback to one's pleasure 
 in visiting these places, and that is, the tail of natives which 
 collects and follows you about. Moreover, as soon as we 
 approached any tomb or building of apparent antiquity, 
 some individual would sneak into the place ; so as to appear, 
 when we entered, as the presiding genius of the edifice 
 (although probably knowing no more about it than we did), 
 and on the strength of this, would demand " backsheesh." 
 
 A large village has sprung up among the ruins beyond 
 the Kootub, and there is here a tank some J 50 feet by 40, 
 I should think, and I dare say 60 feet deep to the surface 
 of the water. At one end steps lead down to the watei-, 
 
 tLi
 
 166 
 
 but at the opposite end there is a perpendicular wall. On 
 arriving at this place, we were amazed to see at least half 
 of our motley escort divest themselves of the small allowance 
 of garments which they had on, and, one after the other, 
 jump clean off the edge into the water sixty feet below. 
 They jumped off in a curious but not ungraceful sort of 
 flying attitude, and when half way down suddenly brought 
 their feet close together, and with their arms laised straiofht 
 above their heads, plunged into the water like a knife, 
 with scarcely any noise or splash. Our visit to the Kootub 
 occupied a whole day ; but both on our way there and 
 back, we stopped more than once to examine some of the 
 many beautiful tombs which line the road. Most of the 
 larger buildings are very much alike^ being all built some- 
 thing on the same plan as the celebrated Taj Mehal at Agra. 
 They are generally octagonal or rather square with the 
 angles cut off. In'the centre of each of the four larger sides 
 is a lofty portal, the openings in the angles being in double 
 tiers. The centre of the building is occupied by a ciicular 
 or octagonal chamber, covered by the great dome and con- 
 taining the tomb, while surrounding the central chamber, 
 are two stories of smaller chambers. Almost every one of 
 these buildings stands on an elevated platform at the end 
 of a garden, which is itself enclosed and entered by a hand- 
 some gateway. The buildings of this class near Delhi are 
 almost all of led stone iiilaiii with white marble : the central 
 dome :ind fuui' smaller domes over the angles being entirely 
 of marble. 
 
 Few visitors to Delhi quit it without taking a stroll 
 through the Cashmere Gate and its vicinity — the scene of the 
 great struggle during the assault in 18.57. Tlie gate itself 
 contains two arches, one for exit, the other for entrance ; 
 niid as both it and the fortilicatioiis near seem to have receiv- 
 ed no lopairs since the assault, one is able to realize what a
 
 167 
 
 storm of cannon balls must liave been launched upon it. 
 The wonder is, considering the dilapidated state of the gate 
 and walls, that so few nuirksof tiie bombardment are visible 
 within the city itself. Tlie European Cemetery is just out- 
 side the gate; and here lie those vvho fell in the assault, 
 together with the victims of the atrocious massacre which 
 took place within the city. The burial ground is on the 
 slope of a hill, and is kept in very good order — indeed, the 
 wliole city is so neat and oi'derlj^ that it is difficult to be- 
 lieve that ten short years ago it was a scene of anarchy and 
 bloodshed. I had almost forgotten to mention the Public 
 Gardens, which are close to the Railway Station, and are 
 veiy prettily laid out with abundance of flowers — which, 
 unlike the flowers in Madras, have somewhat of that per- 
 fume we generally expect to find in flowers. 
 
 The journey from Delhi to Agra occupies some seven 
 hours. We left at 4 p. m., and readied the Junction of the 
 short branch line which goes to Agra at about 10. Either 
 the load was out of order, or the carriage was, for I never 
 expeiienced such a rough and noisy piece of railway travel- 
 ling as this short stage from the Junction to the Agra station. 
 I was very much reminded of my first visit to Niagara 
 Falls in America, on which occasion every one was on the 
 qui vive to obtain a first glimpse or hearing of the Falls — 
 in the same way, on nearing Agra, all heads were out of 
 the window, looking eagerly for the " Taj.'" Just before 
 entering the station we caught a glimpse of what looked 
 like the ghost of some great white building, very indis- 
 tinctly visible in the moonlight — but it was the Taj, with- 
 out doubt ; and we felt that accession of dignity, which 
 always is perceptible when, as the Yankees sa}', *' we have 
 seen the Elephant." The railway station at Agra is, so to 
 speak not at Agra, but at the other side of the Jumna, which 
 we crossed by a very rickctty bridge of boats. On our
 
 168 
 
 way to the hotel we passed the Fort, looking grand and 
 gloomy (a perfect realization of a mediaeval fortress) in tlie 
 moon-light. After passing it we caught sight of the Taj, 
 some distance down the river, looking shadowy and indis- 
 tinct but beautiful, and after driving through various 
 streets reached our hotel about midnight ; went to bed and 
 dreamt that the Jumma Musjid of Delhi and the Taj of 
 Agra having been invited to meet the station church of 
 Delhi, and the ditto of Agra at dinner, politely declined the 
 acquaintance.
 
 CHAPTER VI, 
 
 Agra — Fort — Taj — Akbar's tomb — CaT7npore. 
 Of course the great object of attraction at Agra is tlie 
 Taj ; we however deferred our visit thither until we had ex- 
 plored the Fort, which is far more interesting and striking 
 than that of Delhi. Externally it realizes all one's ideas of 
 an ancient fortress — the walls are lofty and embattled, and 
 at each corner there is a circular tower, while the gateways 
 are really magnificent. It retains far more of its original 
 features than the Fort at Delhi ; and the Palace which, as 
 at Delhi, overlooks the river, remains almost entirely in its 
 original state. There is also here a " Pearl Mosque,^' but 
 infinitely superior in every respect to the bijou Mosque at 
 Delhi. The Pearl Mosque at Agra is of considerable dimen- 
 sions, its court-yard measuring something like 200 feet each 
 way ; and the mosque itself has five arches and five domes, 
 instead the usual three. The mosque and the interior of 
 the court-yard are entirely of white marble, the exterior 
 being faced with red stone. The Palace consists of a series 
 of beautiful white marble pavilions overlooking the Jumna ; 
 and the walls are ornamented with precious stones inlaid in 
 very beautiful patterns. A great deal of this decoration Ijas 
 been destroyed by the picking and stealing fingers of our 
 art-loving countrymen, but enough remains to show how 
 costly the building must have been. I observed, in places 
 out of easy reach, tourquoises and emeralds inlaid round
 
 170 
 
 the windows, as well as wliat looked oxtremel^^ like uncut 
 rubies. My fingers itched to [liek and steal after the man- 
 ner of my nation, but I forbore. This wholesale plunder- 
 ing and destruction is now strictly forbidden. One of the 
 " sights" of the Palace is the bath-room attached to tiie 
 Zenana. It is simply a cellar, the walls and roof of which 
 are inlaid with innumerable small pieces of looking-glass. 
 I dare say it may have looked very brilliant when lit up, 
 but apart from associations, it appealed to me rather taw- 
 dry, and would assuredly be univei'sally called so if it were 
 in the *' Palace" at Sydenham, instead of the Palace at 
 Agra. During the whole time of our visit to the Fort, we 
 continued to steal as many glances as possible at ihe Taj, 
 which was visible about three quarters of a uiile down the 
 river ; and impatience to see this world-renowned building 
 led us to quit the Fort without having seen all that we 
 might. 
 
 I had read so much about the Taj, and had seen so many 
 pictures and models of it, that 1 was almost disappointed to 
 find it exactly what I ex{)ected. But if it did not surpass 
 my anticipations, it certainly came up to them, at least so 
 far as its external appearance is concerned. The gardens 
 were moje extensive than I had expected to find them, 
 and I was not prepared for the group of buildings of which 
 the Taj itself forms the centre. The white marble platform 
 (300 feet square) on which the Taj stands, is itself the cen- 
 tre of a still larger platform, or rather paved, court-yard — 
 bounded on its two longer sides by the garden and the^river, 
 while the two ends are occupied, each, by a large and beau- 
 tiful mosque. These buildings are exactly alike, and are 
 built of red stone with inlaid marble ornaments, and toge- 
 ther with the Taj and the four beautiful marble minarets 
 (oaoh 135 feet high) at the coiners of the marble platform, 
 make up a most glorious architectural group. With the
 
 171 
 
 interior of the Taj, I confess I was disappointed. The cen- 
 tral chamber, in which the tombs (which, together with the 
 marble screen surrounding them are most beautiful,) are 
 placed, is small in comparison with the external dimensions 
 of the building, and its dome has no connection with the 
 external dome. Mr. Feigusson, in his hand-book of archi- 
 tecture, has allowed his pen to run away with him in des- 
 cribing the interior of the T.ij. He says, " The light is 
 admitted through double openings tilled with marble tra- 
 cery of most exquisite design." The design is here faith- 
 
 fully depicted, and 1 think can scarcely be termed " ex- 
 quisite." The system of inlaid oruaa'ent observed in the 
 Palace is carried out to a still greater extent, and in far 
 purer taste in the Taj. The whole of the lower parts of the
 
 172 
 
 walls, together with the tombs and the screen, are elabo- 
 rately decorated with bloodstones, agates, cornelians, and 
 many other precious stones, inlaid in beautiful patterns. To 
 the very great credit of the people in general, the picking 
 and stealing perpetrated in the Palace has not been put into 
 practice here ; and every thing remains as fresh and beauti- 
 ful as on the day when it was finished. We visited the Taj 
 under all possible circumstances — sun-shine, cloud, and moon- 
 light : and on the latter occasion, were serenaded by some 
 native minstrels, who played and sang sundry native airs, 
 including, of course, " Tasa pe Tasa." Their instruments 
 were soft and really rather sweet, very different to our Mad- 
 ras native instruments, and we enjoyed the music, until they 
 horrified us by commencing, " We won't go home till morn- 
 ing," — the pronunciation being something worth hearing. 
 After this we dispensed with our serenaders, and soon after 
 returned to the hotel. I visited the Station Church which, 
 resembling as it does Christ Church, in Madras, formed a 
 charming contrast to the Taj. I believe there is a decent 
 Cliurch in Agra, but I was not fortunate enough to find it. 
 We devoted one day to a visit to Akbar's Tomb at Secun- 
 dra, some seven miles from Agra. The building, as usual, 
 is at one end of a large garden, enclosed by walls and enter- 
 ed through a large and handsome gateway. It is entiiely 
 different from most of these tombs, and is in fact a species 
 of pyramid — consisting of, I think, five stories, which di- 
 minish in size and increase in beauty gradually, the lower 
 being coated with plaster, the next three being of red stone, 
 and the top one of white marble. In the centre of this, 
 enclosed by white marble trellis-work and open to the sky, 
 is tiie show-tomb, not the real tomb, — that of course being, 
 as usual, at the base of the building. There is at Secundra 
 a Missionar}' Training Institution, the existence of which 
 I was unfortunately not aware of at the time of my visit;
 
 173 
 
 and I therefore did not see anythicg of its arrangements. 
 We left Agra for Lucknow late at night and reached Cawn- 
 pore, where we had to wait live or six hours, very early the 
 folio winfj morning. 
 
 The Cawnpore station is nearly three miles from the town 
 itself, and is the only comfortable or decent looking building 
 that I saw in the place. The name of Cawnpore is associated 
 with anything but pleasing recollections, and I can only 
 say that the place itself most fully confirms any previously 
 formed unfavourable ideas. We of course visited the Well 
 into which the victims of the awful massacre of 1857 were 
 thrown and still remain. The Well has been encased in 
 dressed stone and covered in, and on the top is a marble 
 figui-e of an Angel. The whole is enclosed within an 
 octagonal scieeu some 20 feet high, having in one of its 
 sides a doorway. The design is questionable second pointed 
 (Grothic), the execution is far from good, and the material 
 simply disgraceful. The whole ought to have been of 
 marble, and might easily have been so ; whereas it is built 
 of the very worst stone I ever saw. The whole is discolor- 
 ed and in many places crumbling away ; and as a memorial 
 to our unfortunate countrymen and women is a disgrace to 
 us. The gardens surrounding the Memorial are kept in 
 decent order, and there are two graveyards close to the Well, 
 in which are interred many of those who perished before 
 the final atrocity. I also went to see the Memorial Church, 
 and found the' walls some two feet in height ! and very 
 little being done to raise them any higher. Altogether, I 
 was utterly sickened with Cawnpore, and was very glad 
 to cross the bridge of boats over the Ganges and take my 
 seat in the Railway carriage which was to convey me in 
 two hours to Lucknow. 
 
 22
 
 CIIAPTEK VII. 
 
 Lucknow — Kaiser Bagh— Residency — Martiniere — Church — Benarea — view 
 from the river — College — Calcutta — Cathedral. 
 
 For nervous individuals, who are perpetually dreading an 
 accident all the time they are in a Railway train, I recom- 
 mend a trip on the Cawnpore and Lucknow Railway. The 
 line is straight and perfectly level, and the speed very much 
 the same as that of a mail coach 30 years ago. It must have 
 been a remarkably cheap line to make, seeing that there is 
 neither biidge, cutting, nor embankment in the whole 41 
 miles between the two cities. With the usual perversity of 
 Railways, this lines stops some three miles short of Lucknow, 
 and we had a most unpleasant drive through the slums of 
 the city before reaching our hotel. Lucknow is, apart from 
 associations, a very imposing-looking city, and comes up to 
 one's old ideas of Oriental splendour more nearly than any 
 Indian city I had then seen. All its grandeur is, however, 
 " imposing" in another sense of the word, for it is all shain, 
 gilded wood and stucco. Close to the hotel there was a large 
 and maorriificent lookinij building, with a hujje sjilt dome, 
 which, on going round to the back, I discovered to be onl}^ 
 half a dome, constructed of lath and plaster, and resembling 
 in shape one-half of a cocoanut shell. The great square of 
 the Kaiser Bagh (the Palace) appears — until you discover 
 the cracked plaster and rotten domes, — very splendid. The 
 principal part of the square is occupied by flower beds, where
 
 175 
 
 there can fortunafcel}' be no deception. Of course the chief 
 object of interest is the Residency^ which remains, so far as 
 the buildings are concerned, almost exactly as it was when 
 the remnants of the European Garrison quitted it ten j^ears 
 ago. Every one of the buildings is more or less shattered, 
 and although it is difficult to believe that houses built in 
 our charming brick and plaster fashion could ever look pic- 
 turesque in ruins, yet these buildings have, by means of ivy 
 and creepers twined over them, been made to assume the 
 appearance of venerable ruins ; and it is difficult to believe 
 that the momentous events which have rendered them fa- 
 mous took place ten short j'ears ago. One of these iTiinous 
 houses is placarded (as they all are) with the name of its 
 owner at the time of the siege. It was Dr. Phayrer's house, 
 where Sir Heniy Lawrence died. But so completely had the 
 aspect of the place removed the events apparently centuries 
 back, th^t when a very jolly-looking gentleman was point- 
 ed out to me at a concert in Calcutta as the identical Dr. 
 Phayier, I looked at him with much the same feeling as I 
 should regard Queen Elizabeth were she suddenly pointed 
 out to me at an evening party. The Residency grounds 
 are kept in beautiful order, and there is an artificial mound 
 in front of the principal building, with a beautiful memorial 
 Cross, some 40 or 50 feet high on its summit. The Church 
 was completely demolished during the siege, and has not 
 been restored : m.any of those who fell are buried in the 
 grave-yard which surrounds it. A simple slab marks the 
 grave of Sir Henry Lawrence, and I am sure no one can 
 read the inscription without getting what Her Most Gra- 
 cious Majesty describes as a " lump in her throat." " Here 
 lies Henry Lawrence, who tried to do his duty," — and at 
 the foot, a further inscription, the exact words of which I 
 forget, but which is a distinct commendation of the soul of 
 the departed to the prayers of the living.
 
 176 
 
 We spent a portion of Sunday in Lucknow, and attended 
 morning service at a ratlier pretty Churcli, some 2^ miles 
 from tlieKesidencj^, on the road leading to the " Martiniere." 
 This most extraordinary looking building was designed by 
 General Martine as a residence for himself, and is now oc- 
 cupied by a branch of the Educational Establishment, which 
 he left funds to endow. The Church is a cruciform build- 
 ing, with a tower and spire in the angle formed by the 
 chancel and transept. The nave has aisles, but they are so 
 narrow, and the piers dividing them from the nave are so 
 massive, that they are more verandahs than aisles. The 
 chancel is correctl}'' fitted up with choir stalls, and the east 
 window of three lights, is tilled with good stained glass ; 
 the centre light, I think, representing the Crucifixion. There 
 is a surpliced choir of some 12 or 14 boys, belonging to the 
 Martiniere, and the singing was accompanied on a har- 
 monium. The Psalms were not chanted, and perhaps it was 
 just as well ; as, judging from the manner in which the Can- 
 ticles were scrambled through, to very florid Anglicans, the 
 chanting of the Psalms in a like manner would not have 
 been conducive to devotion or equanimity of temper. With 
 a large school such as the Martiniere close at hand, surely a 
 better service might be got up in this church. The boys' 
 voices were by no means bad, but they appeared to have had 
 no training whatever. Hymns Ancient and Modern were 
 used. 
 
 Our visit to Lucknow was curtailed for want of time, 
 and consequentl}'- our inspection of so interesting a place 
 unsatisfactory ; and the same remarks apply with still grea- 
 ter force to our hurried peep at Benares. The *' Holy City" 
 is not on the main line of railroad, and even after reaching 
 the terminus of the branch line from Mojjul Serai to Benares, 
 you find yourself on the wrong side of the Ganges, and at 
 least five miles from the European Cantonments. We arrived
 
 177 
 
 at 4 a. TD. after a fatiguing night journey, and as we wished 
 to leave again the same niglit, we could only snatch a 
 couple of hours' sleep and then drove down to the river, 
 took a boat and were rowed up before the ghauts, and 
 river front of the city. The view of Benares from the 
 river is I think more striking than any architectural scenery 
 I evei' saw. Rising from the water along the entii-e river 
 front, which extends a good mile, there is a succession of 
 " ghauts" or broad and lofty flights of stone stairs ; in most 
 cases backed by an ornamental architectural screen, generally 
 fifty or sixty feet high, and having something the appear- 
 ance of the front of a mosque. Between these the steps 
 continue to ascend and are lost among the loftj^ buildings 
 which rise up in the back ground tier above tier. These 
 buildings are of all sorts ; palaces, mosques, and Hindu tem- 
 ples with gilded cupolas — among the palaces, that once oc- 
 cupied by Nana Sahib is conspicuous, while the entire popu- 
 lation at the time of our visit (7 a. m.,) appeared covering 
 the broad steps leading down to the river, or bathing in the 
 river itself. These bathers were not the onlj^ occupants of 
 the stair and the river, for close to tlie edge of the waters 
 several dead Hindus were [Jacidly burning, while in close 
 proximity to their living friends, sundry dead cows were 
 washing about, and emitting anything but a pleasing odour. 
 Indeed the whole scene although picturesque and intensely 
 oriental, was, probably on the latter account, anything but 
 ])leasing to the nose. The streets in the city aie so narrow, 
 that we had to leave our conveyance some distance from 
 the river and walk ; and by this means we saw far more 
 than if we could liave driven. We were too tired 
 however to exert ourselves much, and went back to our 
 hotel, without seeing more than the outside of the Mission- 
 ary College. It is a handsome-looking building in the 
 Tudor Gothic style, apparently correct enough in its details,
 
 ]78 
 
 but containing no one feature adapting it to the climate of 
 India. It stands in a large compound, about lialf way be- 
 tween the native town and the hotel, which latter was close 
 to tbe church. In the afternoon we went to the Botanical 
 gardens, which are very pretty and nicely kept, though small, 
 and at 10 p. m. started for the Railway station, where we 
 waited till 3 a. m. for the train to start ; preferring a hard 
 bench in the waiting room to the certainty of missing the 
 train, had we slept at the hotel. 
 
 The journey from Benares to Calcutta is most uninter- 
 esting, the country being an unbroken flat the whole way ; 
 and it is very tedious, lasting 28 hours. The dust and dirt 
 too are nearly as bad as between Allahabad and Delhi, and 
 we were truly thankful to arrive at 7 a. m. tbe following 
 morning at the terminus, at Howrah, which, like most of the 
 stations on this Railwa}^, is on the wrong side of the river. 
 We crossed the Hooghly, (which reminded me very much 
 of the Thames, being about as wide and as dirt}',) in a com- 
 fortable saloon steamer, and as there were plenty of hack 
 carriages waiting on the other side, we soon reached our 
 destination. I was ibrtunate enough, during my short stay 
 in Calcutta, to be the guest of the Rev. W. C. Bromhead, 
 Chaplain of St. John's, and have to thank that gentleman 
 for my non-experience of Calcutta hotels, as well as for his 
 very great kindness and hospitality. I confess I was griev- 
 ously disappointed with the so-called " City of Palaces." 
 It is true that the two Cyclones from which it so recently 
 suffered have robbed it of the i^ew trees it could once boast 
 of, but even making allowance for that, there is little 
 to make one comprehend how Calcutta could ever have 
 impressed any one so much as to earn for it so high-sounding 
 a title as it bears. Government House is a fine large build- 
 ing; but it is only brick and plaster; and Dalhousie 
 (formerly called Tank) Square is rather handsome. The
 
 179 
 
 shops too are showy, and have large plate glass windows, 
 like those at Home, and must be nice and hot I should think. 
 Government House itices the " Maidan," a large open 
 common, having on the right hand side the river and Forfc 
 William, and on the left Chovvringhee row, which extends 
 about a mile, and the view on this side is finished by S. 
 PauFs Cathedral and the Bishop's Palace. At a distance the 
 Cathedral looks ratiier well, as it has a lofty and well pro- 
 portioned spire ; but the illusion is soon dispelled on a nearer 
 inspection. It is built of brick and plaster, both very bad ; 
 and the plan consists of a huge choir or chancel without 
 aisles, but very wide, transepts not quite so wide and a sort 
 of nave of two bays. The nave is really of three bays ; but 
 the western-most one contains a library above, and the car- 
 riage porch below, so tiiat the vehicles actually drive into the 
 church. The tower is at the intersection of the nave and 
 transepts, but is not half their width, and the space is conse- 
 quently blocked up by huge solid pieis. The general effect, 
 however, of this j)art of the building is not bad, as the tower 
 is open to the church, and the internal height immediately 
 under it must be at least 90 feet. The arch opening into 
 the chancel or choir is occupied by a screen surmounted by the 
 oro-an, which has a double front, like those on the screens of 
 English Cathedrals. Indeed, the aim and object of the archi- 
 tect seems to have been to reproduce on a small scale, an 
 old Eno-lish Cathedral, arranged in the horrible fashion by 
 which the congregation are all thrust into the choir, and the 
 nave and transepts left in emptiness and desolation. The 
 style is supposed to be Tudor Gothic, but a more piti- 
 able parody of mediaeval architecture never was seen in this 
 or any other country. The surface of the walls both within 
 and without, is covered with coarse plaster (not polished 
 chunam like that used in Madras) and the whole is decorat- 
 ed ! with Dannelling on a large scale. The windows, with
 
 180 
 
 the exception of the East and West, are tall ungainly open- 
 ings of two lights, and are filled with common glass relieved 
 with patches of blue glass, here and there, and the roof which 
 is of wide span^ is more like that of a railway station than 
 anything else I can compare it to. The East and West 
 windows, having both been blown in by successive Cyclones, 
 were at the time of my visit tilled up with mats and canvas 
 screens ; but I believe tiiey never had any mullions (the 
 mullions of the side windows, by the way, are of wood) and 
 the East window contained a huge painted glass picture of 
 the Crucifixion, copied from one of West's paintings. It is 
 to be hoped that the new window which, together with a 
 reredos, has been ordered out from Home as a memorial to 
 Bishop Cotton, will contain an equally satisfactory subject. 
 Fortunately the furniture of the church is in some degree 
 better than the building, inasmuch as it does nob pretend 
 to be what it is not. The nave and transepts are empty, 
 with the exception of two small screened-off vestries and 
 a few monuments. One of these is very beautiful ; and 
 consists of an Altar Tomb placed in a recess in the 
 East wall of the North transept. The arch over the 
 tomb is of richly carved Caen stone, and the back 
 of the recess is occupied by a beautiful group in alabaster. 
 I unfortunately forget the subject, and also the name of the 
 person in whose memory the monument was erected, but 
 the whole is undoubtedly a beautiful work of art. There 
 is in tiie same transept a marble statue of Bishop Heber. 
 The fifjure is kneeiincr and I should imasjine the likeness 
 must be good, as the fVice beais a close resemblance to that 
 in the same Bishop's monument in Madras Cathedral. The 
 window sills in the choir are about 13 feet from the floor 
 and the space beneath is occupied by open arches filled with 
 Venetians; this arrangement being apparently intended to 
 promote i'rce circulation of air. This good intention has
 
 181 
 
 however been almost entirely frustrated by the erection of 
 a long row of stalls on each side rising in three tiers, like 
 those with which we are all familiar at Home. These stalls 
 are backed by a carved screen, and of course effectually 
 keep off all breezes which may be blowing, from the centre 
 of the Church, which is occupied by seats facing east. The 
 Bishop's throne is, I think, at the east end of the stalls, 
 on the south side, and the Governor's seat is opposite 
 to it. Both are covered with pinnacles, and would-be 
 gothic tracery. The choir stalls are to the east of these, 
 and close to the Altar, which is the best feature in the 
 Church. It stands on a white marble platform three or 
 four steps above the floor of the choir, and was, on the oc- 
 casion of my visit, vested in a handsome crimson velvet frontal 
 and super-frontal, the former having a gold cross embroider- 
 ed on it. There was a super-altar I believe, but no orna- 
 ments. These will no doubt be supplied when the new 
 Beredos is erected. As the season was Lent, I need scarcely 
 say that the Altar should, strictly speaking, have been vest- 
 ed in violet ; but I doubt not that in Calcutta there are 
 quite as many (if not more) diflSculties (in the way of " anti- 
 ritualistic" outcry) to contend against, as in Madras. The 
 organ, as already mentioned, stands on the screen, and is a 
 very fair instrument by Grray and Davison of London. It 
 has three rows of keys, viz., great and choir to GGr, and 
 swell to Tenor C ; together with one octave of open wood 
 pedal diapasons to CCG. These, together with the great 
 oigan diapasons which stand, one in the East and the other 
 in the West front, are very good, but like all Gray and 
 Davison's organs, the mixtures are very screaming and harsh. 
 I give, as nearly as I can remember, a list of the stops, but I 
 know it is not quite correct. 
 
 Great organ. Open diapason, open diapason, stopt dia- 
 pason, principal, tweKth, fifteenth, sesquialtera and cornet-
 
 182 
 
 tierce, trumpet. Swell, bourdon, open "diapason, stopt diapa- 
 son, principal, fifteenth, sesqnialtera, cornopean. Choir 
 stoptdiapason.dulciana, principaljflute, fifteenth, keraulophon. 
 Pedal, open diapason 1 6 feet. 
 
 The organ was very much out of order, and only one reed 
 stop was of any use, the great organ trumpet being almost 
 entirely dumb and perfectly useless. The organ has, how- 
 ever, since been entirely repaired. The case of the instru- 
 ment is rather handsome, having three towers of gilt pipes in 
 each front with a good deal of carving on the top. I at- 
 tended evening service on Sunday ; and perhaps the less 
 said about the singing the better. There was a large 
 surpliced choir, and the service was of much the same 
 character as at Bombay as regards the music sung, but 
 by no means as regards the manner of singing it. I must 
 observe however that the organist, Mr. Frye, had only just 
 arrived, and had had no time to institute the reform which, 
 from all I heard of him, 1 have no" doubt he has by this 
 time effected ; and indeed if he makes his choir sing as well 
 as he plays, there will be nothing left to be desired. The 
 Cathedral is singularly fortunate in its chaplains ; and 1 
 need scarcely say in its Bishop ; so that I think, on the 
 whole, Calcutta lovers of choral service may look forward 
 hopefully to the future. There is daily even song, (read, 
 I think,) and a^'weekly celebration, at least this was the 
 case when I was there, though I dare say there may have 
 been changes since, and if so, they have been, we may be 
 sure, for the better. The exterior of the Cathedral present- 
 ed a most woeful spectacle. The plaster had pealed oft' in 
 great flakes, leaving tlie brick- work exposed, and in many 
 places, especially the buttresses, the brick-work itself had 
 crumbled away. Ea(;h buttress was originally surmounted 
 by a pinnacle, but the cyclones had made sad havoc among 
 these. Scarcely one remained upright. Moreover the man-
 
 183 
 
 ner in which these ornaments were originally manufac- 
 tured was brought to light ; and certainlj' was ingenious. 
 The pinnacles were not built of brick, but consisted simply 
 of iron rods, like pokers, upon which the crochets and finial 
 were moulded in plaster. In some cases the whole of the plas- 
 ter had disappeared, finial and all, and the iron rod remained 
 (no two of them quite upright, but all bowing to each other) 
 while in others the finial remained, and looked, foir all the 
 world, exactly like the ornaments which we see represented, 
 in prints of 1746, as gracing the summit of Temple Bar. 
 
 These pinnacles have now, I believe, been entirely re- 
 moved, and it is said that the Bishop, when he first saw his 
 Cathedral, was so horrified at the sight of these adornments ; 
 that when very shortly afterwards a design for a new 
 Church (blossoming all over with pinnacles) was presented 
 for his approval ; his Lordship turned his head away with 
 a shudder, and said " No, no : let us liave no pinnacles, go 
 and look at the Cathedral."
 
 CHAPTEE VIII. 
 
 St. John's Church — Fort Church — S. James's Church, 
 
 Since my visit to Calcutta, I have read Bishop Wilson's 
 life ; and it really is sad to see how his nol51e and self-deny- 
 ing exertions and efforts to raise and endow a Cathedral 
 worthy of his Diocese have failed. As will be seen from 
 my description, the building is a failure in every way, 
 although it cost nearly £60,000, and the sum of £20,000 
 collected for endowment of a Chapter has been devoted to 
 other objects. Perhaps Bishop Milman may be able to 
 realise what his zealous predecessor hoped so fondly to see, 
 and worked so diligently to bring about. The old Cathe- 
 dral, St. John's, is near Dalhousie Square, and surrounded 
 closely by houses. It is built very much in the same style 
 as Madras Cathedral, only it is not nearly so long, and is 
 moreover disfigured with galleries. The interior, altogether, 
 is very like S. Martin's-in-the-Fields in Trafalgar Square. 
 There is a small cliancel, without any choir stalls however, 
 and the East window, of three lights, is filled with very 
 good stained glass. I'he pulpit and prayer-desk stand two 
 ba3's west of the chatieel arch ar)d the space between is 
 empty ; but will, I believe, be eventually occupied by choir 
 stalls. The Altar is of very fair size and the wall behind it, as 
 well as the entire walls and roof of the Sanctuary, are paint- 
 ed and gilded in ver^^ good taste. The organ is in the west 
 gallery and is a good instrument by Gray and Davisou. Its
 
 View acroN the transept of Calcutta Cathedral.
 
 185 
 
 contents are almost exactly the same in those of the Cathe- 
 dral organ,. the only differences being that there is a Gam- 
 ba in place of the 2nd great organ diapason, a Cremona in 
 place of the choir Keraulophon ; and there is, in addition, a 
 Hautboy in the swell. The compass also is different, being 
 to CC. instead of GGr. I attended service at S. John's on 
 Sunday morning, and heard a capital Sermon from the 
 Bishop ; my host, Mr. Bromehead, who is senior chaplain 
 of the church, reading prayers. The service was not choral, 
 but what luas sung was done decently and in order ; so far 
 as is possible with an iinsurpliced choir in a west gallery. 
 St. Peter's Church in Forfc William is, like the Cathedral, 
 a Gothic failure— although not to such a great extent. It 
 is copied in its main features from S. Paul's Church, in 
 York Place, Edinburgh ; but it is far smaller, and is built 
 of brick and plaster instead of stone. The general outline, 
 however, of the exterior, very forcibly calls to mind the 
 features of its Edinburgh proto-type. Internally S. Peter's 
 is decidedly ecclesiastical looking. There are no galleries, 
 and the two eastern bays of the nave are reserved as chan- 
 cel. For the benefit of tliose who have never seen S. Paul's, 
 Edinburgh, I nmy as well mention that it and its Calcutta 
 copy, consist merely of a nave and aisles, without tlie small- 
 est rudiments of a chancel. At each corner of the nave 
 there is an octagonal turret, and the buttresses are all sur- 
 mounted by pinnacles. The style is Tador Gothic, or 
 " Perpendicular" and in the Edinburgh church, the win- 
 dows of the aisles and clerestory are of three lights with 
 perpendicular tracery in the heads. In the Calcutta church 
 the side windows are of two lights only and have wooden 
 niullions without any traceiy at all. In all its internal 
 arrangements it is very correct ; perhaps moi"e so, on the 
 whole, than any other church in India. The Sanctuary 
 occupies one entire bay ; and the Altar, which is well raised
 
 186 
 
 and properly vested, is backed by a very beautiful marble 
 and alabaster reredos. I forget the subject of the sculpture, 
 but I think it is the institution of the Blessed Sacrament; 
 and it is a really good work of art. The East window is of 
 three lights and is filled with stained glass representing the 
 Crucifixion. There is a credence table, and there are also 
 sedilia ; while the floor of the Sanctuary is laid with 'en- 
 caustic tiles; and the walls as well as the roof are painted 
 and gilded. This decoration is carried over the whole roof 
 of the church, and is on the whole effective. 
 
 The church is seated throughout with low open seats, and 
 there are in their proper places, a handsome font and lec- 
 tern. The organ, a good though small instrument b}'' Hill, 
 stands at the east end of the south aisle. It has two rows 
 of keys, namely, great organ of 8 stops and swell of 6 stops, 
 with pedal Bourdon. The choir are surpliced, and I believe 
 sing well, though I was unable to attend a service. I was 
 told that the Sunday evening services are full}'' choral, but 
 that in the morning the psalms are not chanted ; and I do 
 not think that the Holy Communion has yet been chorally 
 celebrated. On the whole, however, the Fort Church at 
 Calcutta is a thing to be thankful for, especially if we com- 
 pare it and its services to S. Mary's Church, Fort S. George. 
 There is, in Fort William, and very close to S. Peter's, a 
 Roman Church, such as would be described in the guide books 
 as a " neat gothic structure." I had no time to examine it, 
 and probably did not lose much. The latest addition to 
 the churches of Calcutta is S. James's, which has been built 
 almost entirely from subscriptions and collections got 
 together by the energetic Chaplain, the Rev. Dr. Jarbo. The 
 church is a large cruciform building with two Western 
 Towers, and the original design, which looks exceedingly 
 like one of Mr. Gilbert Scott's, seems to have been good ; 
 but, as usual in India, all is spoilt by the materials, which
 
 187 
 
 are brick and plaster. The aisles, which are nearly the 
 same height as the nave, are divided into two stories, the 
 lower serving as a species of verandah and the upper as gal- 
 leries, the upper tier of arches occupying the place of a cle- 
 restory. The transepts are very deep, considering the size 
 of the church, and the chancel, which is also very long, at 
 least 40 feet, I should think, has an apsidal termination. 
 The roofs are of open timber work, with a good deal of 
 carving, but rather heavy in appearance. The walls and 
 roof of the chancel were, at the time of my visit, in the 
 hands of decorators, and were being profusely painted, in 
 better taste it is to be hoped than the nave and transepts, 
 which are painted a sort of sickly salmon colour. The chan- 
 cel windows are lancets, and are to be filled with stained 
 glass ; but as the furniture was not in position, I can say 
 nothing as to the ritual arrangements contemplated — I fear, 
 however, that a surpliced choir is not among them. The 
 organ stands over the west door and is a large and very 
 handsome-looking instrument, with a 16-foot metal Diapason 
 in front. It is the largest organ in Calcutta and contains 3 
 full rows of keys from CO, to G, in alt, and a pedal organ of 
 4 stops, one of them a 16-foot metal open diapason. The 
 instrument was built by a Yorkshire or Lancashire maker, 
 whose name I never heard before, and cost £800. It has 
 some good points, but I did not much admire the quality of 
 tone, although it is powerful enough to satisfy any one. I 
 do not know exactly what this church cost, but judging 
 from the fact of £800 being available for an organ, I think 
 the sum total cannot have been short of £15,000; and it 
 certainly reflects very great credit on Dr. Jarbo that he 
 should have succeeded in raising such a sura. He seems to 
 liave left no fair means of obtaining money untried ; 
 indeed, as an envious friend of his assured me, he did 
 everything but steal; the result shows what can be achieved
 
 188 
 
 by patience and energy. Quite late on the last evening of 
 my stay in Calcutta, it was suddenly remembered that 
 there was a good organ in the Presbyterian Kirk in Dal- 
 housie Square, and off we started, hoping to get in, "We 
 managed to get the key after a great deal of trouble and 
 stumbled up the gallery stairs in the dark, only to find the 
 organ locked. A light was brouglit eventuall}'', and we were 
 able to see the building, which is very much in the same 
 style as S. John's. The organ, apparently a large instru- 
 ment, is in a gallery behind the pulpit, which of course occu- 
 pies a central and prominent position.
 
 CHAPTEE IX. 
 
 Bishop's College — Dum Dum — Climate of Calcutta &c., — return to Madras. 
 
 Not least important among the ecclesiastical institutions 
 of Calcutta, is Bishop's College. I regret that I did not in- 
 form myself to some extent regarding statistics, such as the 
 number of students, and other like matters ; and must per- 
 force confine myself to a slight notice of the buildings. The 
 College is situated on the bank of the Hooghly, nearly oppo- 
 site the P. & O. Company's wharf at Garden Reach ; and we 
 proceeded thither in a boat, about 5 o'clock in the afternoon. 
 There is no proper landing place opposite the College ; 
 and our disembarkation was anything but an easy business. 
 The buildings are of course merely brick and plaster, but the 
 outline and general appearance call to mind some of the 
 smaller Colleges at Cambridge. The principal entrance is 
 under a tower with octagonal turrets at the corners, and 
 bearing a strong resemblance to the entrance gateway of 
 Christ College, Cambridge. On the right of this is the 
 Chapel and on the left the Hall, with the library above it. 
 The chapel is neatly arranged with stalls, and recalled to 
 my mind very forcibly the appearance of the chapel of 
 Magdalen College, Cambridge, before its restoration. There 
 is a harmonium, but no organ, and the east window, of three 
 ights, is filled with colored glass, which however bears
 
 190 
 
 tokens of dilapidation, having been cracked during the last 
 cyclone. 
 
 Although the buildings generally did not suffer so much 
 as the Cathedral from, these storms, yet the exterior bears 
 marks of their destructive effects, in the pealing off of the 
 plaster, and other marks of injury. The grounds in which 
 the College stands are extensive ; but not by any means 
 pretty — I suppose the cyclones are to blame for this also. I 
 believe the affairs of the College are ia a prosperous condi- 
 tion, and no doubt, the present Bishop will do all in his 
 power to make it a school of true Catholic teaching. Nearly 
 opposite the College, but a little further down the river, is 
 the palace of the ex-king of Oude, who, among other pleasant 
 tastes, has a fondness for wild beasts, and keeps a large 
 stock of tigers, &c., whose nocturnal bowlings must be a 
 soothing incitement to slumber, distinctly heard as they are 
 by the inhabitants of Bishop's College. At the time of my 
 visit to Calcutta, the head quarters of " Puseyism" were sup- 
 posed to be at Dum Dum, and here "Rituslism" was report- 
 ed to ride rampant. As I had the pleasure of being acquaint- 
 ed with the Chaplain, the late Eev. Arthur Stone, I went 
 out to tiffin with him one day. It was to be expected that 
 although there were but few trees and little grass in Calcutta 
 itself, there might be a sprinkling of both on the road to Dum 
 Dum, but no : there was nothing but dirt, evil smells, and 
 dust ; such dust too as I never saw before. It is possible that 
 in the Great Desert of Africa the dust storms may surpass 
 my experiences on the road to Dum Dum, but I steadily 
 refuse to believe that such dust is to be met with any where 
 else. At Dum Dum itself the face of nature wore an im- 
 proved aspect, and there were a few trees to be seen ; although 
 nothing like the shady roads of Madras. The Church at 
 this station, where one regiment or more is always quartered, 
 is a most wretched building, but Mr. Stone had done his
 
 191 
 
 best to make the East end, at least, decent ; while his good 
 wife had trained the school children to chant very respecta- 
 bly. As for " Ritualism," it would have been simply im- 
 possible in such a church and with the resources at Mr. 
 Stone's command. He simply did his best to have things 
 done decently and in order, and was abused and bullied in 
 consequence. I have ever since been very glad that I was 
 able to pay this short visit to Dum Dum, for he who was on 
 that occasion my kind and genial host, is now at rest from 
 all his labors, and, beyond the reach of petty persecution, is 
 now joining in the glorious ritual of the Church triumphant 
 as described by S. John in Revelations. 
 
 As Calcutta people are very fond of keeping up the old 
 fiction of the " Benighted Presidency," I, as an inhabitant of 
 the same, endeavoured to find out in what respect Bengal 
 was more enlightened than our Southern Presidency, and so 
 far as regards Calcutta, I was unable (except in the matter 
 of gas) to discover wherein lay the boasted superiority of 
 the City of Palaces. The houses in Chowringee are certain- 
 ly very large, much larger than the average of Madras 
 houses, but they are packed as closely together as the houses 
 in Yepery ; indeed closer, and Mr. A. cannot fail to see 
 everything that goes on in Mr. B.'s house. Then there is an 
 ever present cfonsciousness of the existence of drains, or 
 rather the smell which is connected with drains, as I doubt 
 whether the latter exist to any great extent. The climate 
 in the cool weather is pleasant enough, except that it is 
 often chill and damp ; but in the hot weather, judging from 
 the small experience I had at the end of March, Calcutta must 
 be a Pandemonium, such as the extreme of the hot weather 
 in Madras can convey no idea of. I observed that the houses 
 are larger than those in Madras ; so also are the musquitoes, 
 by many degrees ; and also far more voracious. Indeed, 
 nearly every thing in Calcutta is on a larger scale than in
 
 192 
 
 Madras, even to the natives themselves ; v?-ho are great not 
 only in body but, as it appeared to me, so far as domestic 
 servants were concerned, in laziness and impudence likewise. 
 They will not speak English, although I am convinced that 
 in many cases they understand it, and the result is, that 
 their masters have to talk Hindustani exclusively when 
 addressing them ; the still further result being that our 
 countrymen and women too in Bengal have got into the 
 habit of interlarding their ordinary conversation with such 
 a number of native words, that they would be in a great 
 measure unintelligible at home. However benighted Madras 
 may be in some respects, we at least are far ahead of Bombay 
 or Calcutta, especially the latter, in that English is the 
 language in which we carry on business with the natives and 
 in which we speak to each other. A Bengal European 
 calls his Butler a " Kansamah" (spelling doubtful), and that 
 functionary answers " Sahib." In Madras, the Butler says 
 " Master" and the Master says " Butler." Even the use of 
 the word " Tiffin" is becoming obsolete in the benighted 
 city, and we have long ago decided that it is quite as 
 rational to call "Early tea" by its English name as by a Tamil 
 or Hindustani one. 
 
 I attended a concert in Calcutta, and here again I felt 
 that I was not called upon to hide my diminished head and 
 blush for Madras. I will say this, however, that a Calcutta 
 audience is infinitely more reasonable and more easily 
 pleased than a Madras assembly of the same nature. 
 
 As regards matters ecclesiastical, things look very hopeful 
 in Calcutta ; but lay help is much wanted. There was at 
 the time of my visit, no bi-anch of the E.C.U., though both 
 Madras and Bombay had established associations in con- 
 nection with that Society some time previously. On the 
 other hand, however, annual choral festivals have been held, 
 with I believe considerable success, in S. Paul's Cathedral
 
 193 
 
 for the last four or five years ; while we are in this respect 
 still benighted. 
 
 Our very limited visit to Calcutta soon came to a close and 
 we embarked early on a Tuesday morning on board the P. 
 and O. Company's steamship " Surat." The " Surat" is a 
 noble ship of nearly 2,600 tons register, and is exceedingly 
 comfortable. We had about 60 passengers, and as the officers 
 were very musical, and there were both a piano and a harmo- 
 nium in the saloon, our evenings were enlivened by singing 
 and playing. The passage down the river was, as usual 
 tedious, and we did not get to sea till Wednesday morning. 
 The voyage was without incident or even sea sickness, and we 
 anchored in Madras Eoads on the following Saturday at 
 1 p.m ; thus bringinj^f our tour, and consequently my " notes" 
 thereof to a conclusion.
 
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