UCSB LIBRARY TRAVELS SPAIN IN 1797 AND 1798* BY WITH AN APPENDIX ON THfc METHOD OF TRAVELLING IN THAT COUNTRY* TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN* LONDON: PRINTED BY A. STRAHAN, PRINTERS-STREET, FOR T. N, LONGMAN AND O. REE3, PATERNOSTER-ROW. 1802, PREFACE. IN this work the author's object was to exhibit the firft impreffions of a traveller, and to give a living picture of the country. He has endeavoured to note thofe particulars which have efcaped other writers, and on which the plan of Bourgoanne only per- mitted him flightly to touch, as for in- ftance the prefent ftate of literature in Spain, and the mode of travelling there, which is the fubject of the appendix. The reader will therefore confider thefe fheets as a feries of practical notes to that and other works, and in this point of view the author hopes his la- bours may be aflbciated with thofe of that diftinguilhed writer. A 2 To IV PREFACE. * # * To avoid the conftant interruption of notes the tranflator has introduced thofe of the original into the text, and even added a few curfory obfervations of his own, diftin- guifhed by fquare brackets [thus] where his own knowledge of that country enabled him to correct fome trifling error. It may be ufeful to add that a real vellon is almoft twopence farthing fterling ; a real of plate or filver is about fourpence halfpenny; a pefetta is four reals vellon (about nine- pence three-farthings,) but is generally con- fidered as equal to a french livre ; eight reals of plate make a nominal dollar or dollar of exchange (called a piece of eight) and five pefettas make a hard dollar or dollar of twenty reals vellon; a quarto is a fourth, and an ochavo an eighth part of a real of vellon. 71 CONTENTS. LETTER I. Departure from Amfterdam for Rotterdam. The Maai or Meufe, The Briel. Scenery. - - Page I LETTER II. The North Sea. Sea-Sicknefs. Dunkirk. Arrangements on board. An Engliflj Cutter. Dover Lighthoufe. The Britijh Channel. Scenery, - 5 LETTER III. An Englijh Privateer. PiSurefque Defcripticn of tht Day t as it pafles at Sea. - - "9 LETTER IV. Scenery. A Smuggler. The Shingles. The Pleafure of a fa- vourable Foyage. An Englijh _ Frigate. Englijhmen tn board, - - IJ LETTER V. The Commencement of a Storm. 'Its Progre/s.-~DiJlrtSi.--G!rfo- /ant.Tbe IJleofOleron. - - - 7 VI C0NTENTS. LETTER VI. A Wreck." Fogs and Signals. Rock and Lighthoufe of Cordua** A Pilot' boat. Mouth of the Garonne. Guard- boats. : Scenery. - Page 2O LETTER VII. Blaye.Medoc. Bee d* Ambes. The Garonne. Scenery. Lf PaJJage.Difputes. The Port of Bordeaux' 24 LETTER VIII. The Landing, and the S^uay. Chateau-trompette. Entrance intt. the City. Situation of Bordeaux. Its Architefiure. - Prome- nade called Allees de TcMrni.A Jtngular Pojting-bill. 1 be theatre. Urf art Fortunes, - r 28 LETTER IX. Go/eons; their Char after and Language. Bordeaux Wine ;* its Ciaffti and Prices. Prefent Stagnation of Trade. Speculations in -Privateers. The Exchanges-Character of the Merchants and Inhabitants in general. - - 32 LETTER X. Departure from Bordeaux. Society on the Road. Landes, or Heaths. Stilts. - Inns t partly fpanijh. ~ 37 LETTER XL *The Pyrenees. Caps uj'ed in Bifcay. Suburbs of BaionRe.~~ Firjt Appearance of that Town. Its Situation. Les Allees Marines, or the Promenade along the Quays. Charming En- virons of Bayonne. - . 49 CONTENTS. Vll LETTER XII. Trade of Bayonne. Exports and Imports. Privateering. A De/cription of the various Qualities of Chocolate, ha.Cafa de Antonio. P a g e 66 4 LETTER XIX. Situation of Bilboa. Ridges of Mountains. The River and its . Sand-banks. Architecture. Population^ 70 LETTER XX. Promenades at Bilboa The ArenaL The Road to Olavijaja. The Road through Albia over the River, Ranges of Mountains to the right and left. Promenades above the Town. 74 LETTER XXI. Corpus Chrifti, or Holy Thurfday. Thi Procejpon. Grotefque Figures. Angelas or Angels, Bull- Fight. Aficionados. Dogs.^Embolado. - - 78 LETTER XXII. Political Conftitution and Privileges of the Province of B if cay. Pride of the Inhabitants. Municipal Adminiflration of tht Town. The Alcalde and Corregidor. Municipal Taxes. Police. Singular Laix. Prifons. Law againji Ingrati- tude. 85 LETTER XXIII. Simple Manners and general Char after of the Bifcayans.Amufe- ments of Bilboa. Romerias. Tertullas* Coffee -Houfes. Wine-Houfes. Concerts of Amateurs. Women. 85 CONTENTS, 15 LETTER XXIV. Commerce of Bilbya. Export*. Wool. Chefnuts, &c. Manner- of Jhipping them. Imports. Internal Commerce. Tzendas. , Smuggling. Foreign Trade. Bohemian Haufes. Difficulties in obtaining Permiffion to eftablijh Honfes of Trade- Hatred toward the French. Emigrant French Priejis.*Iht Bafqut Language. - - Page 95 LETTER XXV. Prcvijions. Sardines, Chefnuts, Fruits, Wines. Climate. Maladies. Phyficians. 108 LETTER XXVI. Departure from Bilboa.Miravalles. Defcription of a Pcfada. Scenery, Reminifcences of Chamouny. Orduna La Pe~na. A ft or my Night. A Vent a. Change in the Appearance of the Country and Inhabitants. -Cajhtmes. Villa-nue'va. Sierra, de Union. Wild Appearance cf the Mountains and Rocks , / near Burgos. A French Ecclejiaftic and a Pilgrim. gurgos. - 1 1 LETTER XXVII. Road, to Lerma. A Mule falls Jich. Exorcifms and Holy Water* Road to Aranda. A Girl without Arms. Arandd Dragoons. Scene at an Inn. The Mafs BoJJequillas. Pic- ture ofMifery.Venta of San Lorenzo. Road over the Scrao- Jierra. Nob!e Gorda. Buytrago. A Catalonian Inn ^an- jigojiin. Difference of Neva and Old Cajtile. Read to Satt- Sebaftian. Firjt Picio of Madrid. Approach to Madrid. Definition of the People feen on the Road. Cujlom Houfe Officers, - - nz CONTENTS* LETTER XXVIII. Situation of Madrid. Its Divi/ions and Population. Its Archi- tecture* Streets ', and Squares. Dtfcriptitn of a Street crowded vcith People. The Square called la Puerto del Sol. Pa/ling Sills. Pedlars, Huckjiers, &c. Diver/ified Multitude. Noon and Afternoon. Girls. Criers. Evening. Detached Scenes. - Page 13 z LETTER XXIX. Promenades of Madrid. 7 he Prudo.Its Jirft Appearance. -* Irrigation. Equipages. C&ntrajis. Description of the Pro- menade and Carriages. Animated Appearance of the Multitude* Ths Angelas. Tb? Evening. Walks at Buen Retire* Pafleo de las Delicias. Other Promenades on the tuejl Side of the City. Environs in general. - 144 LETTER XXX. Tbe Climate. /// Variability. Its Heat. Precautions necejfary* The Cold during Winter* Prevalent Dtfeafes.PhyJiciani. 7 be State of Medicine in general. Provisions. Maviett. Made of Life of the higher and lower Orders. Prices of Provi- Jions. Bread. Water. Water-carriers, nubolefale and retail. Botellerias. Wine. Beer. Coffee-bouj'es. Taverns* Private Houfes. Price of Boarding. 1 5 tj LETTER XXXI. The fpanijb Ladits. Their general Charafttr. Their Pbyfiog- nomy and Figure. More particular Defcription of their Cba- rafter. Mixture of Religion and Libertimfm. Want of De- licacy. Situation of a Lover. Their Marriages. Cortejos. Their domejlic Life. Spirit of Revenge. Tragic Injiance of it CONTENTS. XI f^-Drefs. The Bafquina and Mantilla.-*- Their Head-drefi - Their Stockings and Shoes. - - Page 167 LETTER XXXII. General Remarks on the Scenery of the Country and the frft 1m- prejjions made by it. Character of the Spaniards. Social Life. Fajhion Eccle/iaftical Syfttm, Progrefs Literature and Books. Libraries Dejcription of the Royal Library. Jour- nals and New/papers, 1 86 LETTER XXXIII. Supplementary Letter containing d ':ons ana Proofs oftbefort- gom^ Dtfcripticn of the Spnnijh FUthinefs in their Per- fons, Streets, and Houjls. Backivardnefs in the Mechanical Arts. Utenfels and Furniture. W'ant of dome/tic Indujny, Ignorance of public Economy. Aliments. Spani/h *Dijhes. . Drefs. Cott:uay.-The Ramparts. Promenades. Scenery. Night. Amujemtnts. El Puerto (de Santa Maria). Chic- I ana. Provijions. Fruit. Ices. Want of Water. Re- Sources. Charader of the A.ndaluJians.-Ejj'e8s of the Climate. Sea bathing. The Theatre. A-ion. Volero:. Pre/er.t State of the Trade of Cadiz. The Blockade. Evafans through Addrtfs or permitted through Policy. Foreign Merchants. Hanfeatics. Hatred againft the French, Spirit and Turn of the Inhabitants of Cadiz Camcrra or Reading-room. Newf- pafers. Port or Shipping Lijit. Inns. LETTER XL. Departure from Cadiz. Scenery. Torre gorda. Jjla df Leon. Puerto de Santa Maria. - Change in the Scenery, Xeres Lekrya. Ecija. Houjet jlngularly fainted. Cor- dcita. XIV CONTENTS. dova. Mafs. Venlas deAlcolea. Carpio. The Colonies there. Carolina. Puerto del Rey. Entrance into La Mancha. Valdepenas. Manzanares. -* Entrance into the Kingdom of Murcia. Fuente de la Higuera. Entrance into the Kingdom of Valencia Beauties of that Province.' Inhabitants, Imprcvifadores.~ Popular Sangt . Page 310 LETTER XLL Situation and Architecture of the City of Valencia. Climate. Charming Country. Promenades. Grao. Public Works in the Harbour. Smuggling. Prefent State of Commerce. Ma- nufactures. The Interior of the Houfes.The Char after of the Inhabitants. The Women. Amufements. Advantages of this City. Religious Delirium. - 330 LETTER XLII. Departure from Valencia. Mur-viedro. Ancient Theatre of Sa- guntum. Nulis. Cork Buckets. Singular Bottles. Fly Chafers. Maltefe. Architecture. Cajiellon de la Plana. Oropefa. Alcala de Sibert. Vinaroz, San Carlos. ~*-Tbe Fate of public Enterprifei in Spain. dmpojla. Perellos. > The Pirate. Pafs of Balaguer or Balacbet. Hofpitalete. Change in the Appearance of the Country from Cambrils. Lively Scenery. Tarragona. Torre del Embarr. Villa Franca, Hojlal de la Orda. Approach to Barcelona. 340 LETTER XLIII. Situation of Barcelona. Firft Impreffion made by that City and the great Indujlry it exhibits. Promenades. Muelle de San Luis. PaJJeo Nuevo. The Citadel. ?affeo de la. Rambla~* The Shore. Muelle Nuevo. Environs Montjuich. Amufc- tnents. Drefs . Figure and general Character of the Inbubit- ants. Their political Opinions. State of the Commerce o/ Barcelona *Gretk and turkijh VeJ)els. Anecdote of two mal- ttje Sbifi*R<./emhance with the Manners of Italy. A~van- CONTENTS. XV tages of Barcelona in regard to Literature and tne Arts, Provi/tons. Language, - - Page 357 LETTER XLIV. Departure from Barcelona. formalities to le otyevord on Embark- in* for Genoa. The Peffii rlgoroujlj fear eked. Milane/e Ecclc- fiajlics. Calo de Creut.- Alarm of a Pirate. Gulf cf Lyons. P-ortGrot. - - 371 LETTER XLV. . Light- Houfe. Vie-M of Genoa. A PbjJician.FirJt Lapreffioni. Condti/ion. - 378 Lately publijhed by LONGMAN and REES, PaternoJler-Row. 1. LETTERS written during a refidence in SPAItf and PORTUGAL. By ROBERT SOUTHEY, Efq. Second edition. Price 8s. in boards. " j'n the variety of arnufement whicli Mr. Seuthey lias ferved up in this Melange, the mind is at a lofs on which page moftly to dwell. Relying on our author's aflurances, we muft think him either a very fortunate or 4 very inquifitive traveller; he muft either have been unufuaJly lucky in meeting, fonuitoufly, with adventures or information, or have fpent many a weaiy hour in the refearch ; for not a page occurs, that does not either amufe us by its humour, or inflruct us by a juft train of thoughts happily expr, fled." London Review, March 1799. 2. TRAVELS in PORTUGAL, and through FRANCE and SPAIN. To which is added, a Differ tation on the Literature of Portugal, and the Spanifli and Portuguefe Languages. By HENRY FREDERICK LINK, Profeffor at the Univerfity of Roftock, and Member of various learned Societies. Tranflated from the German by J. Hinckley, Efq. with Notes by the Tranflator. In one large volume, 8vo. Price ps. in boards. " This book is admirably adapted to the ufe of thofe who delight in the charming purfuits of natural hiftory, and therefore we cannot too ftrongly recommend it to the Botanift and tlie Mineralogift. It abounds alfo in anecdotes, fo various, as to intcreft the feelings of evtry one who is fond of that important portion of reading, which defcribes the habits and inftitutior.s of men. The details of natural fcience are preceded by fome judicious obfrrvations on thofe parts of France and Spain, through which our Proteffor travelled or. his way to Portugal j it is throughout interfperfed with Aatiftical accounts of that kingdom, with inftiuclive remarks on its fundamental policy, literature, language, trade, and population ; and, on the whole, the reader is, perhaps, prcfented with a more accurate piclure of the gtntral ftate of that country, than is to he found in any book of travels hitherto published." Anti-Jacobin Rev. Off. i8ot. " Profeflbr Link is a traveller who has done honour to his country by his various fcitntific difcouifes, it is therefore a circumftance of high com- mendation in Mr. Hinckley, to make us familiar with this Fhiiofopher, by rendering this valuable work into our own language." Man. Mirror, Aug. 1801. 3. A TOUR through GERMANY; particularly along the BANKS of the RHINE, MAYNE, &c. and that part of the Palatinate, Rhingaw, &c. ufually termed the Garden of Germany. To which is added, A Concife Vocabulary of familiar phrafes, &c. in German and Englifh, for the ufe of travellers. By the Rev. Dr. REN- DER, native of Germany. In 2 vols. 8vo. Price i6s. boards. " This work is one of thofe ufeful produclions of the Britifh prefs, which merit general recommendation ; for it encompafles a wide field of dtfcriptive, extenfive, well authenticated information, and an agreeable in* Urn;ixture oi mental amufemeiU." European Mag. Off. i8oi TRAVELS IN SPAIN, IN 1797 AND 1798. LETTER I. Departurt from Amjlerdam for Rotterdam. The Maas or Meufe.' The Briel. Scenery. On board the Jo.ng Pieter, off the Btiel, April !?)>;. IT is now noon, and we are waiting for the comp- trollers of the cuftoms, with whom the pilot is to go on more ; I therefore take this opportunity of fending you a letter. You may remember that at Amfterdam I was feeking for a veflel bound for Spain ; but this un- fortunate war has thrown every thing into confu- fion. At length I found by the public prints, that a (hip was on the point of failing from Rotter- dam for Bordeaux, and inftantly determined to take my pafiage thither. Having no time however to lofe, I collected my paflports, and went in the fchuyt to Rotterdam, where I bargained with the B captain 2 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. captain for twelve ducats for my paflage and board. I bought fome provifions, and laft night flept on board the veflel alongfide the quay of the Meufe. This morning, toward five o'clock, mad-heads were perceived, a light fog announced a fine day, and there being lefs fwell mowed, that the tide had abated, and was about to turn. We therefore tacked, and were prefently in the middle of the river. By degrees the fun rofe, the wind be- gan to frefhen from the eaftward, and, though we only carried two fmall fails, the wind and tide together carried us down like a dart. During a confiderable time we ftill diftinguHhed, through the high green trees of the Boompuys (a pleafant promenade on the broad quay of the Meufe), the magnificent palaces with which that quay is lined. At length they difappeared ; as did the immenfe arfenal, and the delicious plantations of the farther banks ; and all thefe objects became almofl imper- ceptible. We failed in company with feveral other veffel?, always coafting along the immenfe and flat banks of the river. On our left we faw nothing but meadows and woods j but, on the right, Delftf- haven reared ifis enormous dykes above the furface of the water ; and, fcon after, Schiedam, which is celebrated for its manufacture of Gin : it refembled a town in flames, while a thick fufFocating fmoke inceflantly TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 3 trtceflantly covers it, and extends along the bank of the river like an immenfe white mountain. We had our head to the wind, the water was falling by degrees, and the current was increafing more and more ; when a veffel, coming up the river, luffed and neared us. Our pilot called out ''to him to put the helm down ; but this manoeuvre hot being performed quick enough, we were within half a (hip's length of each other, and our bowfprit was come directly upon his prow. The captain and the pilot now both exclaimed at the fame mo- ment, " We are loft,- we are loft !" when fortu- nately the other (hip tacked about, and we both efcaped. As we advanced, the river grew wider and wider, and we faw feveral iflands adorned with the mofl beautiful verdure. We have at length cad anchor at the mouth of the river, near the fort of the Briel, which ftands on the fouth point of the iiland of Vooren. The charming plains have now given place to fand-banks, where nothing is feen but batteries and flag-ftaves. On the banks here and there are women and children gathering up the fifh and (hells which the fea has left in the traps and in the mud. Before us we behold the blue plains of the ocean covered with an infinite num- ber of riming- boats ; we hear the noife of the bar like thunder, and the fhip works with great vio- lence at her anchors. B 2 But 4 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. But the pilot is impatient to have my letter, and I mud take my leave. Adieu, my dear friend, a thoufand times adieu. How painful is the mo ment of feparation ! Thefe are perhaps the lafl lines I (hall ever write you ; never more perhaps will you hear of me. But no ; away with thefe melancholy thoughts ! I hope this Voyage will be as aufpicious as the two former. I truft in Heaven and my good fortune. Once more adieu, my deareft friend. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER II. J"he North Sea. Sea-Sicknefs. Dunkirk. Arrangements on board. An Engli/h Cutter. Dover Ligbtboufe. Tbt Britijh Channel. Scenery . AT length we got out to fea the day before yefter- day, with a pretty flrong wind from the north- eaftward. Our veflel cut the foaming waves with rapidity ; and a multitude of fifliing-hoats, return- ing home, faluted us from afar. We could ftill diftinguifh the Downs ; but by degrees only faw a greyifh fog, which foon became confounded with the furface of the water. At duik, I began to feel fea-fick. The waves of the ocean are longer and ftronger than thofe of the Baltic, and give the veflel a more violent mock, which is the caufe of that diforder. I was however very little incommoded by it, having, by way of precaution, taken a few dofes of bark in fome cherry-brandy. Next morning we were a-breaft of Dunkirk ; to which we were fo near, that, with a common, pocket-glafs, I diftinguifhed the mips of war in the road, and the three fteeples fo well known by feamen. The fun feemed to rife directly over the B 3 town, 6 \ TRAVELS IN SPAIN. town, gilding the furface of the waves ; but the air was cold, and great part of the heavens overcaft. The firft day of a fea voyage is almoft entirely em- ployed in getting to rights : there are fo many things to arrange, that nothing is thought of but examin- ing every thing, and fixing the place it fhould occupy. My coje, or cabin, contains, at the foot a, fmall cupboard for my provifions ; and my books and papers on a fhelf for that purpofe above my head. I am not indeed very comfortably lodged, but it does very well. The captain had alfo a multitude of affairs to, attend to : he had to arrange his charts, his qua- drants, and his glafles, examine the fails and cord* age, diftribute his provifions, &c. In (hort, the whole morning and part of the afternoon pafled in thefe preparations ; till at length the boatfwain fuddenly called out, that there were four fail to leeward : upon this, we all went upon deck, and perceived, by our glaffes, three Englifti frigates an4 a cutter. I believe I have told you we failed under pruf. fian colours and papers ; as foon therefore as we came in fight of the englifh mips, we hoifted our pruffian flag ; upon which they made a fignal for us to come alongfide the cutter, who began her in- quiries with her fpeaking- trumpet : " Where are you from ?" " From Rotterdam." " Where are you TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 7 you bound ?" " For Bordeaux." " Of what country are you ?" " Pruffians." " Pafs, and be damn'd !" We had already begun to fear they would force us to vifit Dover againft our will, and were aftonifhed at our good fortune in efcaping. We now faw nothing around us but veflels of all forts and fizes, and failing in all dire&ions, which afforded a moft animated and interefting fight, filling the mind with fatisfadion and with hope. At length the fun was hid by gigantic mafles of cloud, night drew her veil over the ocean, and we faw Dover light-houfe mining like a comet to the northward. This morning we entered the Britifh Channel j but the wind being contrary, we were obliged to ftand off and on. The fun has difperfed the fog, and we fee before us the Englifh and French coafts, all full of light, reflecting the morning fun ; and every motion of the fhip (hows us, on one fide, the white cliffs of Kent, and the citadel of Dover ; on the other, the blue rocks of Picardy, and the bat- teries of Calais. The air is extremely pleafant, the wind fouth-weft ; the fea, calm and fmooth, breaks peacefully along the fhore, and fails mine on every fide. It affords x me an excellent omen, to perceive that Heaven guides us fo happily along this dangerous channel j for the Goodwin Sands, be- B 4 tween 8 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. tween North and South Foreland, are a terror to all feamen. The currents carry us along with vio- lence, and the wind is fo calm that all our fails flap upon the mafts. Adieu ; but though I take my leave of you, my thoughts conftantly accom? pany you. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER III. EagUjh Privateer. Pifiurefque Defcription of the as it paffei at Sea. LAST night the wind had veered round fomewhat to the eaftward, and we had failed fome leagues, when the captain waked me fuddenly about fix in the morning, telling me to get up quick, for a pri- vateer was coming on board ; and foon after an Englifhman entered the cabin. He looked over our paflports, mufter-roll, charter- party, and log-book. " You curfed Dutchmen,*' faid he " always fail with Pruflian paflports ; come, ' give me fome bottles of gin." The captain gave him fome with a very humble air. " Well, and a dozen pipes." Thefe were alfo given him. " And a Dutch cheefe." After which he feemed to be going. " And who is that gentleman ?" faid he pointing at me, " A fubjeft of the king of Prufli^.'* " Well, well, come give me a glafs of wine." He drank two large glafles, and, at length, left us graciouily, as did his companions.. By his drefs and manner he appeared to be only a boatfwain, and the veflel we fo much dreaded no more than a lugger. 3 At JO TRAVELS IN SPAIN. N At length our captain, who, notwithftanding his pruffian paffports, was fomewhat diftruftful of thofe devilifh Englimmen as he called them, feemed to be in better fpirits ; and the wind in the meanwhile having fremened, we were all extremely happy. But unfortunately toward noon we were again becalmed. The fea was as fmooth as a lake in Switzerland, but the mip rolled as ufual ; yet I have contrived 'to write you a defcription of all that pafles around me. Day begins to break, the dark clouds that covered the ocean become a light mid, the ftars fade away, the tops of mafls re- appear, the fea refumes a deep azure, and a flight rofeate hue begins to fhine in the Eaft. The liquid plain grows brighter and more extenfive every moment, and we already fee, in the offing, fails of ihips at the extremity of the horizon, and flreaks of purple float amid the azure of the heavens. In fliort a glorious light fires the fea and iky, and the fun rifes in all its majefty. By degrees the light encreafes, and I begin to obferve the veflels in the diftance, to examine whether any of .our old acquaintance have difap- peared, and others come in fight, whether they are Danes, Swedes, Englifh, or of other countries, what courfe they fleer, whether they are coming toward us or going from us, whether they fail well or ill, whether they are in ballaft or in freight, or whether TRAVELS IN SPAIN. H whether there are any men of war or privateers in fight, all queftions infinitely interefting at fea, where, with a telefcope to look through, you may find employment for whole hours without inter-, miflion. The cabin is fet in order, breakfaft prepared and eaten, and preparation made for cooking the dinner ; one ftudies the charts, reads, writes, or draws; meanwhile the fun advances toward its meridian, the captain takes his obfervations, the cook finimes his work, and we fit down to table, after which an hour's fleep is very agreeable, were it only to fhorten the afternoon. We then walk the quarter deck, again take a review of the vefiels in fight, contemplate the coafts, perform a little mufic, or pethaps play at cards. Meanwhile the diik of the fun increafes, and his rays lengthen. Surrounded by purple clouds he defcends in all the pomp of evening, while aerial mountains are heaped together around him ; but he pierces them with his brilliant fires, and gilds the fails, till at length he plunges, by degrees, into the ocean, after which a foft and crimfon light envelopes the waters and the heavens. We fet down to fupper, then attend prayers, and thus the day concludes. Twilight now ex- tends its empire over the ocean, the diftant fails feem to lofe themfelves in its oblcurity, the mafts difappear, 12 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. difappear, and the ftars one by one pierce through the clouds. Thus night fpreads around, and the fea appears an obfcure abyfs ; yet in the diftance we ftill perceive the lights of veflels here and there, or light-houfes along the fhore. Our lanterns are now lighted, and, except the two failors on watch, every one haftens to bed. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 13 LETTER IV. Scenery. A Smuggler. Tix Shingles. The Pleafure of a fa" vourable Voyage* An Englijb Frigate. Englt/hmen on board. Atfea. OUR hopes have been difappointed. The wind has again drifted to the weftward, and the whole of the day before yefterday we were (landing off and on ; another fhip bound for Morlaix kept us company for fome time ; we talked with the paf- fengers, and exchanged with her a roll of Knaafter tobacco againft fome cheefe and butter, after which the failors caught a net-full of fifh, which our cook has kept for fupper. Meanwhile the coaft of Kent difplayed itfelf before us, and exhibited its beautiful hills and green meadows, its trees in bloom and its white houfes, while the coaft of Picardy, from which we fheered off, through policy, as if we were failing for an Englifh port, prefented on the contrary, a mere chain of brown naked rocks. The fun had now fet, and the twilight had al- ready embrowned the fea, when we difcovered a floop making dire&ly toward us. Not being able to diftinguiih as yet, what her company confiited of, our captain was fomewhat alarmed, and took her 14 TRAVELS IN her for a privateer ; but foon (he came nearer, and we faw two men waving their handkerchieves in the air as a fign of amity. We fleered toward them, and foon difcovered they were fmugglers, for they only afked us if we had any gin* Our converfation indeed was rather laconic, " Whence are you ?" " From Rotterdam." " Have you any thing to drink ?" " A few barrels of . gin." " Good guineas if you will give us fbme." This offer our captain pofitively refufed, but exchanged two bot* ties of it for three of rum, and the boat was pre- fently out of fight. Toward midnight the mate came gaily into our cabin, and calling the captain to his watch, " The wind," faid he, " has been north-eaft ever fmce eleven o'clock, and we are near the Shingles*" And in fad we had made fo much way, that the gre'at light-houfe on the point of Kent, with its bril- jiant light, was perfectly vifible. This morning the wind has again fremened and we are making much way. The greater part of the fhips that kept us company, and which were in ballaft, have outfailed us, faluting their country* man with acclamations of joy. Indeed, my dear friend, you can fcarcely conceive, how much plea* lure we feel in thus gliding along with a moderate and favouring wind. The refrefhing fea air, the fwelling fails, the eafy undulation of the fhip, the murmurs of the foaming waves, the brilliant re- flection TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 1$ fle&ion of light from the furface of the fea, the azure vault of heaven, all fill me with fenfations of pleafure, of energy, of happinefs, and of health, which I fcarcely know how to defcribe. 4 In this manner came on the afternoon, when on a fudden we defcried to leeward a frigate, which by her manner of failing we judged to be Englifh. Our captain, wifhing to efcape her, endeavoured this time to take advantage of the wind, and fet two more fails, but, in fpite of all our exertions, the frigate manoeuvred better than us, and in lefs than two hours we were within gunfhot, v^hen me made a fignal to drop aftern, which, however, on account of the violence of the wind, we could not imme- diately comply with. They fired therefore a fecond gun with ball, and our old captain was half dead with fright. Upoa this the mate, as a fign of fubmiffion, hauled up the forefail, while part of the frigate's company got into her long- boat, and we having now wore the fhip, faw fix- teen men rowing toward us. At firft the captain gave up all for loft. He concealed a fmall purfe of money in his woollen wig, put a tin cafe containing his papers of refource as he called them, into his large breeches, drank three large glafles of gin, one immediately after another, and with an air of melancholy and defpair, and in a cold fweat, waited the arrival of the enemy. Their 1 6 TRAVELS IN Their leader was a little well drefled man, wno* came on board with fix of his people. Accord- ing to ciiftom he perufed all our papers, repeating aloud, as he read over our manifeft, ten barrels of beer, and aiked us with a farcaftic air, " What, have the French no more wine ?" At length, after reading our pafrports three times, he faid in a friendly voice, " Very will, you may purfue your Voyage.*' On hearing thefe words our captain* who had till then been rooted to the ground, and trembled like an afpin leaf, recovered his fpeech : " Would you like," faid he with a fmile, " to take any thing, fome bifcuit and cheefe, or a glafs of double diftilled gin ?" The Englifhrnan how- ever refufed, and quitted our fhip, to the great difappointment of his men, who had been reckon- ing upon a good mare of prize-money, " Now," faid our captain with an air of triumph, " I hope thofe rogues will not trouble us any more, I have plenty to flop their mouths with." At night about nine o'clock we deferred the Cafkets, which are three lights on a dangerous reef of rocks near the ifle of Aurigny. Their ftrong and lively flames, which feem alternately detached and mingled together, tranfport me,- as it were, by a fpecies of enchantment, to that happy and peaceful firefide, where I have fo often en- joyed the focitty of my friend. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 1J LETTER V. *Fbe Commencement of a Storm. Its Progrefs Diftrefs, Ccr pofant. The IJle of Qleron. At fea. AT length I can again fet pen to paper ; but we have patted fome dreadful days. Toward noon the north wind, which had been fo favourable to us, ceafed, and we remained in a diftreffing calm till night. At length, a foutheafl wind fpringing up, we flood off and on till midnight, when the wind was quite contrary, having come round to the weflward. The fun in awful majefty, and the dark black clouds that accompanied him, were the prefage of a dorm. Toward the afternoon the wind was fo violent that we could only carry the mainfail and forefail. The heavens were quite overcaft, it rained for a time, and the florin was already feen at a diflance. We flood off and on as long as we could, but the wind and the fea drove us confiderably aflern. Toward night we were obliged to haul up the forefail, and to reef the mainfail. In this manner the night paffed -, the wind had forne- what fallen, but it frefhened again in the morn- ing, and there was reafon to apprehend the c ftorm ft TRAVELS IN SPAIN. ilorm would continue ; the fwell grew heavier every moment, and the feas we fhipped ftruck fo high as to wet our fails, which we were now obliged to hand, fo that the captain determined to put into St. Malo, or any other port that was nearer, if we fhould be happy enough to make one; but un- fortunately we fcarcely knew where we were. The following night and day our fituation was ftill worfe. I pafied the day in bed, and was obliged to light a lantern, for the cabin was quite dark. The captain came and faid to me, " If heaven does not foon fend us fome help, we muft cut away our mafts : this ftorm feems to me equal to that in 1776." He was quite dejeded, and even the mate, though otherwife communicative, did not fay a word. The fea dafhed againfl the fhip's fides with a dreadful cram, and (he feemed as if (he were going in pieces. Toward the afternoon however the Iky began to clear, the ftorm fomewhat abated, and toward night we were able to let out the reefs. At midnight the captain waked me to tell me with tranfport, that a corpofant, which prognosticated the end of* the ftorm, appeared at the mafthead. But no one can feel the importance of this intelligence with- out having witnefled a fimilar fcene. At noon the wind fell confiderably, and the air became fo ferene, that the captain himfelf went to 4* TRAVELS IN SPAIN. IQ to the mafthead to look out. He perceived to the weftward a flat country, but could not determine precifely where we were. The fea was ftill ex- tremely heavy, but we did not roll fo violently as two days before. We had now, for the firfl time fince the ftorm, a regular dinner cooked, and con- gratulated each other on our good fortune. At two o'clock the fun at length (hone through the clouds, and we clearly diftinguilhed the land. We determined to fail before the wind, which was wefterly, and our captain foon difcovered the land to be the ifle of Oleron. I clearly perceived the rocks and the batteries. The guard of the light- houfe hoifted their flag, and we did the like. At this moment we are (landing oiF and on along the coaft. The wind abates every hour, the fun fets peace- fully, the ferenity of a cloudlefs evening promifes us a calm night and a fine day, and I feel as happy and contented as if I had juft returned from paying you a vifit. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER VI. A IVrtck. Fogs and Signals. Rock and Ligbthoufe of Corduan: A Pilot-boat. Mouth of the Garonne. Guard-boats. Scenery. On board.. THE wind had now quite fallen, the fea was grow- ing calm, but the day was dark and the weather variable. We faw the wreck of a boat floating on the water, and then a mad and fome cordage. Soon after we diflinguifhed the other veflels, which approached us in greater numbers than before. A Dutchman afked us, with his fpeaking trumpet, if we had feen this boat. In all appearance (he be- longed to fome veflfei that had been wrecked on the fand banks off the coaft of France. This idea gives us much pain. In the afternoon the wind fhifted entirely in our favour, to the northward, but the fog became fo thick, that we could not fee more than the fhip's length before us. From time to time therefore we flruck the anchor with a hammer, or blew a horn, as fignals to any mips that might otherwife have neared us, to prevent our running foul of each other, or running down any (hips that might crofs our track, as we had the advantage of being to windward. This .,-:.: : -.;.:.j> TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 21 This fingular mufic continued throughout the night, and deprived us of our fleep. Toward midnight the mate called out to us' below, " The tower ofCorduan'\ that is to fay, the light- houfe at the mouth of the Garonne. The fog had difperfed, and we perceived it at a diftance, like a ball of fire. But unfortunately toward night the wind changed again, and we were obliged to drop aftern, not daring to approach fo dangerous a coaft without a pilot. Thus we flood off and on very tedioufly during twenty hours. At length we this morning defcried a boat making toward us, which, by its red fail and number, we judged to be a pilot-boat. Nor were we miftaken ; and an hour after we took a pilot on board. He told us, that, hearing of us by fome fifhermen, he had fet fail yefterday,' and that he had caft anchor, during the night, near the more. We were extremely rejoiced at his arrival, and, the wind being admirably favourable, we in a fhort time faw on our right the rock of Corduan with its lofty lighthoufe. The waves broke majeftically againft that formidable mafs of rock which is formed by the reefs that fkirt the more, but which by the aid of our pilot we efcaped. This man informed me, that the tower is one hundred and fixty feet high, the great lantern fifteen, and from two to three hundred and fifty pounds of pitcoal are confumed there every night. The watch are c 3 generally 32 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. generally relieved every fortnight j but they are obliged to take a month's provifions, becaufe boats can only approach thefe rocks when the fea is per- fectly calm. We had no fooner pafied the lighthoufe than we perceived a difference in the water, and be- held the charming banks of the Gironde. A mul- titude of fbips of every fize, that we perceived at a diftance, pafled us in an inftant ; and on our left the Royan, which was covered with verdure, im- mediately attracted our attention. We now approached the guardfhip, and it was necefiary to flacken fail j when, after a few mi- nutes, two cuftomhoufe officers, a military officer, and two foldiers, came on board. They noted down the name of the captain and of the fhip ; the defcription of my perfon in my paflport was carefully compared with my features, and they made me feveval times repeat my fignature, At length, all things being found regular, their coun* tenances, which at firft appeared fevere, began to aflume a milder afpecl:, the officer informed us of the fignature of the preliminaries of peace at Leoben, the news of which had arrived a few days before, and, having mutually congratulated each other, we parted. The Gironde, the waters of which are yellowifh and rapid, is above three leagues wide at its mouth, juid its Jhores, which are well cultivated, afford fo enchanting TRAVELS IN SPAIN, ftj enchanting a profpeft, that we inftantly forgot all our fatigues arul dangers. On all fides we beheld green fields, villages, vineyards, meadows, country- houfes, and woods, with the richeft and moft luxu- rious vegetation. In a word, a moft charming fcene approached us on both banks, fo that I be- held as it were a new world, which feemed to be juft difcovered : the trees in bloom, the fmiling farms, the little hills covered with fhrubs, the plains adorned with flocks, the vineyards of a darker co- lour than the other verdure, the chateaux, and the houfes that we perceived at the end of the ave- nues, all gave to nature a new and interesting ap- pearance. It is now feven o'clock, and the fun is on the point of fetting j the (hadow of thefe enchanting banks extends over the peaceful waters of the river, the harmonious tints of evening give a foft- nefs to the landfcape, and the air wafts us a thou- fand delicious perfumes. Some boars have fold us provifions, efptcially wine ; but we (hall be obliged to caft anchor near Blave on account of the tide. c 4 24 .TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER VII. 2Haye. Mi Joe. Bee d'Ambes. The Garonne\ Scenery. Lt PaJJage. Difputes. The Port of Bordeaux. AT Blaye, a fete was celebrating in honour of peace, in confequence of which that little town was illuminated, and throughout the night re-echoed with mufic and finging. Blaye carries on fome trade in wine, and is fituated oppofite to the fort of Medoc. - The Gironde is there nineteen thou- fand one hundred toifes broad. On a fmall ifland, feven hundred toifes from Blaye, ftands a fort, confiding of a fmall flat tower, known by the name of Pate, whofe batteries crofs thofe of Mcdoc. Soon after the river grows narrower, but its banks are thereby rendered more romantic. To the left arife rocks, whofe fummits are crowned with ver- dure, and their fides ftudded with chateaux, farms, cottages, vineyards, and meadows. The right bank, which is the loweft, is a fine plain covered with charming houfes and plantations of all kinds. After this we pafled a point of land called the Bee d'Ambes, near which is the confluence of the Dordogne and Garonne, which, when united, take the name of Gironde. As far as the eye can pur- fue TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 25 fue the narrow banks of the Dordogne and its tu- multuous courfe, it views a rich and well-cultivated country embelliflied with an infinite variety of ob- jects. The Garonne, as it afcends, grows very fen- fibly narrower, but thereby only produces a more pleafing illufion : on looking behind, you would imagine the two banks united with the horizon, and (hut up the paflage of the river by a circuit ef vineyards, of plantations, and of verdure. In front appears a vaft amphitheatre, which combines every thing in nature that is attractive or magni- ficent. The tide now again flopped our progrefs, and we were obliged a fecond time to caft anchor, though we were but an hour and a half's fail from Bordeaux. Our pilot having determined to leave us, and our captain being defirous of paying his refpe&s to the conful of his nation at Bordeaux, I refolved to accompany them, and to fleep that very night on fhore. We landed on the fide of the river next Le Paflage, a place which employs a great number of boats ; for Bordeaux being on the left bank of the Garonne, all perfons and goods, either coming down or going up the country, mud pafs there. Here I was inftantly aflailed by a crowd of wharfingers and boatmen, who contended for the care of my baggage ; and apparently fuppofing me extremely impatient, and dill more generous, demanded no lefs than eighteen francs. I there- l6 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. I therefore preferred remaining that night ort board and waiting till the next day, when we fhould be alongfide the town j and having pafled fo many nights on board, it was no mortification to me to ftay there one more. However I landed, leaving my trunk in the care of a failor, to whom I gave the price of a meafure of wine, and went to take a walk among the avenues of trees that run along the bank. Meanwhile fome of thefe people, having changed their mind, offered to carry my trunk for the fix franks I had offered them. They therefore at- tempted to bring it out of the boat j but they could not perfuade the failor to give it up, his con- cern for my intereft being now reinforced by fome good draughts of wine ; he therefore put himfelf in a pofture of defence to proteft my property, and ufed his oars to make himfelf the better underftood. The affailants were even with him, and returned his blows ; fo that a fcuffle arofe, for the confe- quences of which I was fomewhat uneafy. Fortu- nately a municipal officer came up, who feparated the combatants, though not without difficulty. I thanked him for his interference, and returned on board. This morning we have received on board a new pilot. Unfortunately the wind has become con- trary, and we have been forced to ftand off and onj but I have been well compenfated by the. beauty TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 27 beauty of the banks that prefented themfelves to my view. At this moment I perceive a foreft of marts and above two hundred veflels afiembled together ; in the centre is the town, which forms a femicircle. A multitude of (hips of all kinds precede us, and purfue the current of the river. It is about two o'clock, and we are at length ar- rived. The cuftom-houfe officers, who came yef- terday on board, have already examined my trunk, and as foon as the captain is fatisfied, we fliall go on more. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER VIII. anding, and the Quay. Cbateau-trompette. Entrance int the City. Situation of Bordeaux Its ArcbiteBure. Prome- nade called Alices de Tour at. A Jlngular Poji ing- bill. The theatre. Vpjlart Fortunes. Bordeaux, May I 707- ACCUSTOMED to the beautiful quays of Holland, I was not a little aftonifhed to find the landing here low and muddy, the glacis, which is of wood, only beginning in the neighbourhood of Chateau- trompette. A narrow road runs befide a row of houfes moftly very handfome ; but it is fo incum- bered with mules, carriages, and foot paflengers, that it is extremely difficult to advance. On the left the view of the river is fuperb : beyond the Ihipping the eye is feafled with a fmiling and fer- tile country full of the moft beautiful variety. Two young girls offered to be my guides, and, full of play the whole of our road, carried my heavy trunk by turns on their head without inter- rupting their drollery for a moment. To fhorten my walk, we pafled by Chateau- trompette, which is the ancient fort of Bordeaux, but which is mortly to be pulled down in order to make way for an efplanade. Here I faw a number of portuguefe prifoners, who were juft then per- mitted TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 29 mitted to take the air ; they had compofed the crews of feveral captured veflels ; but their lot is here tolerably mild, and it is poffible they prefer their prefent condition to living at home even a c liberty. We entered the fort, and from the ap- pearance of the filthy glacis we had firft pafled, were very agreeably furprifed by the Alices de Tourni, and the fuperb theatre fronting the great fquare, the farther end of which is adorned with very fine edifices. Here the eye purfues the beau- tiful flreet of Chateau-rouge as far as the charming banks of the river, which is_covered with mips, and the whole forms a mod delightful and magnificent profpecl. Bordeaux forms nearly a triangle ; but on the fide next the river it refembles a crefcent, the eaftern part of which comprehends the town, and the fouthern the fuburb. This part, which is known by the name of Chartrons, is celebrated for the beauty of its edifices, its romantic views, and the multitude of rich merchants that live there. The houfes in the town itfelf are moftly of white free-ftone, and have a certain air of riches and magnificence ; but the flreets are narrow, paved without art or fymmetry, and mew the antiquity of the place. The Alices de Tourni, which commence at the theatre, are the principal promenade out of the town. It has lately been embellimed with a new coffee- JO TRAVELS IN SPAltt. coffee-houfe at the end, where fome droll pi&ures bring good cuftom ; moft of the fubjeds feem to be taken from Ariofto, and they are confidered as very well executed : a cabinet of wax figures, among which are feveral perfonages of the day, and an exhibition of ombres chinoifes, rope- dancers, &c. afford a feeble imitation of the boule- vards of Paris. The trees were everywhere co- vered with pofting-bills : in France, one foon be- comes accuftomed to the declamatory ftyle of thefe papers : the following however (truck me too for- cibly not to copy it : it contained the furprifing promifes of an officer of health, who engaged to cure all poflible diforders in a certain fixed time, appointing precifely the month, week, day, hour, and minute ; for inftance, he could cure the tooth- ache in three minutes, the cholic in three quarters of an hour, a fever in three days, a fciatica in three weeks, and a confumption in three months. You will allow this hand-bill profefled a fpecies of talent by no means common. At the theatre, which is magnificent, and of which you will find a defcription in every book of travels, I faw Gluck's Orpheus and Eurydice, with a ballet performed in a fuperior ftyle. On be- holding this crowd of young people elegantly drefled, and women loaded with diamonds, you would fcarcely have thought it pofiible France could have fufiered fo feverely during the laft eight years* TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 3! years. I made the like obfervation at the prome- nades ; and efpecially at a concert given by a Jew virtuofo, where every thing I beheld difplayed fuch exceflive luxury, fuch a boundlefs paffion for plea- fure, and fuch a finking egotifm, that the fpedlator could not avoid making the mofl painful reflections on the flow progrefs of philofophy in an age fo proud of its enlightened reafon. Among their wives and their miftrefles a crowd of upftarts were pointed out to me, many of whom, before the re- volution, were among the loweft clafles. It may be faid, that, in all revolutions, nothing but forms change, while in fact things ever remain the fame. TRAVELS IN SPAIN* LETTER IX. Gaff cm ; their Cbarafler and Language. Bordeaux ft^im j ffr Claflei and Prices. Prefent Stagvaticn of Trade. $pccu!atian$ in Privateers. The Exchange. Character of the Mtrchants and Inhabitants in general. NOTWITHSTANDING the exaggeration that has prevailed relative to the Gafcons, there is fome foundation for what has been faid of them ; for they always fpeak in hyperboles, and with the like** figure ever appreciate their own merit : they are continually talking of themfelves, and mufl always be as it were upon the flage to feel at their eafe : they know every thing, have feen every thing, and have almoft been prefent at the creation of the world : they tell lies without knowing it, brag without intending it, are continually contradicting you without ill-will, and offend without defign : their character chiefly confifts in a ridiculous vanity, and an unaffected pronenefs to romancing. Every one is acquainted with the Gafcon pro- nunciation : its principal defects confift of too ftrong an afpiration of they, the change of b into u, and too ftrong an accent on the e ouvert : but many people ar.e ignorant, that the Germans of Upper TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 33 Upper Saxony, and the Spaniards, are not exempt from the fame defects ; and that the pretended Gafconifms are alfo in part Gerrnanifms, or Hif- panifms. The chief branch of the commerce of Bordeaux confifts of wine, for where can a man go but he meets with claret ? I doubt not therefore you will be glad to learn fomething on that fubjeft. The wines properly of Bordeaux are diftin- guiftied from thofe of which that town is only an emporium, and which are there fliipped for foreign parts. Thofe grown at Bordeaux are diftin- guifhed into vins de graves, and vins de la palud, ac- cording to the foil that produces them ; the for- mer being fandy, the latter marmy. The wines fent to Bordeaux are either country wines (vim du pays) from four leagues adove Bordeaux, or from upper Guyenne', or thofe from Catalonia in Spain, which are fent from thence to Cette in Lan guedoc, and thence by the grand canal and other navigable rivers to Bordeaux. Among the wines properly of Bordeaux itftlf thofe of Medoc are highly efteemed, and the bed quality is that of La Fite. Among the French wines fent to Bordeaux, the mo# efteemed are the white wines of Langan, and the red of Cqflres ; and among thofe of Spain the wines of Nataro. As to colour and price, the red vins de graves are from fifty to a hundred ecus per calk ; the D white 34 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. white ^m&^Langan t Prignas^Barfac are from one hundred and ninety-five to two hun- dred and ten francs ; the white and red wines of Pedenfac, from thirty-four to thirty- eight ; and the white and red of Caftres, from forty to fifty francs. In no part have men refined to fo high a degree of perfection as at Bordeaux on the art of culti- vating the vine ; in no part perhaps could they create fo great a variety of forts with equal econo- my ; and it requires a laborious application of many years to become acquainted with thefe fe- crets, or to know how fuccefsfully to employ in practice a long feries of expenfive experiments. Of all the claret drunk out of France very little is pure and genuine ; the greater part being adulte- rated with various drugs, or mixed with other wines. This lad fpecies of adulteration is perhaps the moft innocent, and is even fometimes neceflfary to enable the wine to bear a voyage. There is alfo a kind of wine called vins cults boiled previous to their fermentation, which keeps them always mellow. There are alfo vins de paflfe, or raifin wines made without a prefs by an infufion of dried raifins, which is afterwards left to ferment. The exporta-ion of wines amounts on an average to i 0,000 barrels a year. It has confiderably diminifiied fince the commerce of the north and of the United Provinces has ceafed. There is alfo much brandy exported, of which the common fort TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 35 fort is one degree and a half, and the beft, which is called fpirit of brandy, as far as thirteen de- grees. The general ftagnation and deftrudion of the trade of Bordeaux has obliged the merchants to enter into other fpeculations, efpecially that of privateers, which is the moft general. There are at this time no lefs than twenty-one privateers be- longing to Bordeaux alone ; and feveral of the proprietors have already made fortunes by rich portuguefe and englifh prizes coming from the Brazils and the Eaft and Weft Indies. Yefterday, for inftance, the Intrepid? brought in an englifh brig, the cargo of which is valued at a million and a half French ; and fix large portuguefe (hips were fhown me on the river with crews of one hundred and twenty men and twelve guns, which were boarded and taken by fmall privateers with only eighty men and four guns. Meanwhile complaints are conftantly heard on all fides of the decline of commerce and the ab- fence of fpecie. The fuperb fugar-houfes, which owing to the good quality of the water here pro- duced excellent fugar, and which on account of the facility of (hipping it was fo much in demand in the north, are now quite dead for want of fugar to work. The great numbers of manufac- turers in glafs, china, cloth, hardware, chintzes, &c. having no longer a market in the colonies, D 2 are 36 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. are on the point of total ruin. The wine, brandy, and vinegar trades, have fuffered in confequence of the war, and the artificers who lived by them are ' *n the moft extreme indigence. Every one com. plains j and none but carpenters, (hip-builders, and rope-makers, now find employment, in confe- quence of the frequent fitting out of privateers. I acquired moil of this intelligence at the exchange : but, when I mention an exchange, do not figure to yourfelf fuch exchanges as thofe of Holland : that of Bordeaux is fmall, filthy, and is a kind of miniature of the palais-royal. In like manner, the fquare formerly called place-royale in front of the exchange, and fituated on the river, appears too circumfcribed ,and too mean for a city like Bor- deaux, which contains 100,000 inhabitants. The rich merchants here are reputed to be much given to luxury and intrigue ; they are alfo charged with want of good faith and with extra- vagance ; but I dare not decide on thefe re- proaches, or on thofe of avarice and bad morals ; reproaches which it would be unjuft to render ge- neral. Among the exceptions, which I have a pleafure in making, I would place in the firft clafs the worthy Berquin, author of fo many works for children, and who was born at Bordeaux. TRAVELS IN- SPAIN. 37 LETTER X. Departure from Bordeaux. Society on the Road. Landes, or Heaths. Stilts. Inns, partly fpanijb. BJyonne, May '797 I AM at length at the foot of the Pyrenees, only four leagues from the frontiers of Spain, where every thing announces the neighbourhood of that interefting country. I was defirous of coming hither by the diligence (which cofts feventy francs, and arrives in three days), but I was offered for fifty francs a corner of a returned carriage. On traverfing the fuburb of St. Jean, the fine houfes and gardens with which it abounds afforded a fmiling and a charming pro- fpeft. For two leagues afterwards the country is perfectly well cultivated, affording the fined land- fcape the eye can behold. We parted before the country-houfe of the ci-devant bifliop of Bor- deaux, where the ftatues in the garden were muti- lated, the windows and window-mutters broken, and the balconies torn in pieces. The road pre- fently became fandy, the beautiful plantations on both fides changed to barren heaths, and we en- tered upon the well-known landes of Bor- deaux. D 3 One 38 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. One of my fellow travellers was a little middle* aged man from Bifcay, who had ferved, when young, on board a (hip belonging to the colonies : he had afterwards been feveral voyages to Guinea, and a great number to St. Domingo. At length he was employed at the port of Bred, and was now returning to his family, to pafs the remainder of his life in peaceful retirement. He feemed a very 1 worthy man, was full of witty fallies, enjoyed an unruffled ferenity of temper, and, notwithftanding his Gafconifm,. poflefled a great fund of ufeful and valuable knowledge. With him was his niece, a beautiful Creole, thirteen years old, full of wit and accomplimments ; me fang charmingly, and, by the attractive fire of her black eyes, appeared to have entirely taken leave of infancy. My other companion was alfo a feaman, and a Bafque, or Bifcayan. He was tall, well made, in the prime of life, and was going to Bayonne to take the command of a veflel that had juft been fitted out as a privateer. Having recently received his fhare of a confiderable prize, he had plenty of money, and every now and then gave us a tafte of his flock of Medoc wine, which was excellent. I have pafled the laft five days in this pleafant and agreeable party, without experiencing a mo- ment's ennui. Every one had fo many adven* tures to communicate, and one ftory led to fa many others, that the converfation never ceafed, except TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 39 except when Mademoifelle Jeannette now and then fang a fong ; and I endeavoured to contribute my mare to this interefting converfation. I could not give you a better idea of our route, than by comparing it with the country of Lunen- burg ; with this only difference, that here we found a greater quantity of heath. During the laft ten leagues we faw long rows of ofiers and firs, we only met with a village every three or four leagues, and the cultivation was much fuperior to what the marfhy foil feemed to promife. Every- body here walks on (lilts ; and in that manner the fhepherds and peafants attend their flocks, which we met with every now and then. As they are accuftomed from an early age to this contrivance, they ufe it as though it were a natural elongation of the leg, and advance with aftonifhing rapidity : many of them dance, turn round with eafe, and even pick up the money thrown them, without quitting their (lilts. The appearance of thefe gi- gantic figures, efpecially in young girls, has a very fmgular and comical effecl:. In all the inns we entered, and which were to- lerably clean, I obferved an approximation to the manners and cuftoms of Spain : we were a(ked, for inftance, whether we chofe to have our dinners drefied with oil or butter, and whether we pre- ferred coffee or chocolate : a very common difh Jjere is giblets (lewed in their own gravy. D4 TRAVELS IN SPAIN, LETTER XI. the Pyrenees. Caps ujed in Bifcay .Suburbs of Bayonne.-* Firfl Appearance of that Town. Its Situation Les Allen Marines* or the Promenade along the Quays. Charming En- vtrons of Kayonne, May, '179 7. DURING the two lad days we had already begun to perceive part of the Pyrenees, and could per- fectly diftinguiih their fnow-clad fummits j but three leagues from Bayonne they difplayed tbgmfelves in all their magnificence. The cultivation grew better, the road began by degrees to afcend, and country-houfes and gardens increafed in number, when, all on a fudden, we perceived from the brow of a hill the town of Bayonne at the foot of the mountains, whofe azure mafles feemed to be within a league of us. The crowd of villages and plantations, the view of the town and of the river, which was partly covered with fhips, and the majefty of the fcenery gave us the greateft pleafure. We were accofted by a beautiful peafant re. turning with fome vegetables from a garden ; me wore that bewitching coeffure, which has been adopted firft at Paris, and fince in Germany, and which TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 4! which fo advantageoufly adorns our country- women. It confifts of a cambric handkerchief,, of which two corners are attached behind and hang down, while the two others are tied in a rofe on the forehead. The bifcayan women, who are very well made, are fo (kiiful in varying the form of their handkerchieves, and their light ftraw hats adorned with ribands harmonize fo well with them, that I could almoft prefer this coeffure to all others. The road foon defcended, and we prefently entered the fuburb of Saint Efprit, which is feparated from the town by the river Adour. Every thing has here a Spanifh air, the houfes*are adorned wich balconies, on which cloths are fpread, the mops have open windows, and the artificers are feen within finging as they work. We meet wo- men everywhere riding on affes, or with bafkets on their heads, loaded mules, or {ledges drawn by oxen. Even the accents of the Bafque language, to which I am not yet accuftomed, and the noife of the tambourins to which young girls are feea dancing, add to the attractive novelty and gaiety of the fcene. The bridge having been broken down, we were obliged to pafs the river in the ferry. A crowd of fpe&ators had afiembled on the bank, and feemed to vie with our boatmen in the rioife they made* that our carriage had any extraordinary ap- pearance, 42 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. pearance, or that the paflage was dangerous, but, becaufe it was a cuftom and a kind of natural inftind with thefe people to make a great noiie. Some travellers have fpoken of the beauty of Bayonne; but 1 am forry I cannot agree with them. Every thing confidered, the town appears to me infignificant and rather filthy, and though it has fome fine ftreets, feveral tolerably fine edifices, and a great fquare, all thefe ornaments are defaced by a theatre and a corps de garde in ruins. Bayonne (lands a league from the fea, at the con- fluence f two rivers, one of which, called the Neve, divides the town in two parts, which com- municate by a bridge. In one of thefe divifions we arrived by the Porte de France, from which we beheld the Neve precipitating itfelf into the Adour. The latter feparates the town from the fuburb, and, after uniting with the Neve, forms an excellent harbour, the fuperb quay of which is ufed as a promenade. A double row of tufted elms affords here a cool delightful made. To the right, above the river, is feen the country above the town, with the Adour meandering through it, a part of the fuburb, the high citadel built upon a mountain, in form of a terrace, the dock-yards, and fome plantations. To the left, between the rows of trees on the glacis, appears the country below the river with its rich. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 4J rich views crowned by the Pyrenees. If the view- were not obftrufted by a great fand-hill forming a vaft projection, the ocean would be vifible from the point of the quay in all its grandeur and mag- nificence. The tumultuous animation of the port, the perfumes of the neighbouring meadows, and the pure elaftic fea air, render this promenade extremely pleafant at all hours of the day , but evening adds new charms and encreafing mtereft to the fcene. This quay, which the inhabitants call les Alices marines, is not the only promenade. The walks of trees that encompafs the glacis to the very banks of the Neve, the meadows that carpet thefe charm- ing valleys, in (hort, the whole country interfperfed with gardens, vineyards, and country-houfes, give a great variety to the profpedl, nor is there any point of view where the eye/ does not behold the town and its rivers, the fummits of the Pyrenees, or the fea. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER XII. Trade of Bayonne. Exports and Imports. Privateering. A Defcription of the 'various Qualities of Chocolate, bonu madt t And the cbarafteriftics of its goodnefs. Bayonse, MT> '707- I AM now able to give you fome information re- lative to the commerce of Bayonne. The chief trade arifes out of its relation with Spain, to the ports of which it fends principally the following commodities : the woollen cloths of Languedoc, the filks of Lyons, Tours, and Avignon, cottons and chintzes of Rouen and St. Malo, hats and ribbons, filk (lockings, gold and filver laces, watches, and fteel-ware. In exchange for thefe are received wool, wine, oil, and Spanifli American goods, efpecially dying woods, dollars, and ingots. To the north of Europe, and particularly to the Hans-Towns, Bayonne exports wines, and among others, the vin blanc cTAnglet, and the vin rouge d Cap Breton, (the former of which is made to the right, and the latter to the left of the Adour) li- quorice, raifine, (grape conferve, or gelly,) choco- late, &c. and, in return, are received various nor- thern merchandizes, of which the principal article is cheefe : befides which a very brifk coafting trade ii is TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 45 is carried on with all the ports of France. The {hips of Rouen, Nantes, Saint Malo, Bordeaux, &c. alfo bring hither the produces of their com- merce, to be forwarded into Spain, and in ex- change they receive the merchandize of that country, for which Bayonne is as it were an em- porium. Since the prefent decline of trade, the merchants of Bayonne have employed a great part of their capitals in fitting out privateers, nine of which are now in fervice, and prove very fuccefsful. Laft month they took a large Englifh fhip bound from Liverpool to Oporto, with a cargo of bacallao and manufactured goods. Thefe have been fmuggled into Bilboa, where fuch articles are in great de- mand, and have produced an enormous profit. The Bifcayans are indeed excellent feamen ; the difccvery made by them of Newfoundland, and their navigation toward Davis's Streights, are un- doutited tads, for mod of the ports in thofe coun- tries bear Bafque names. A confiderable branch of the trade of Bayonne confifts in chocolate, of which a great quantity is fold not only in France but throughout the north. Having had an opportunity of obtaining fome in- formation on this fubject, you will not, perhaps, find the following particulars wholly uninterefting : The goodnefs of chocolate depends, in the firft inftance, on that- of the cacao, from which it is made, and 46* TRAVELS IK SPAIN*. and which is chiefly of the three following kinds, or qualities ; that from the Caraccas, that from Guayaquil, and that from the Weft Indies, par* ticularly St. Domingo, Martinique, Curacao, &c. Caraccas cacao is extremely dear, even during peace, and, in the moft favourable years, is never fold for lefs than three francs a pound. To make chocolate therefore the cacao of the Caraccas and that of Guayaquil are mixed together. Two thirds of the former with one-third of the latter produce the firft quality ; two-thirds of Guayaquil with one-third of Weft India cacao produce the fecond ; and the Weft India cacao alone the third. The goodnefs of chocolate depends, in the fe- cond place, on the care beftowed on roafting the cacao, on the proper proportions of the cacao, fugar, and various aromatics employed, and on the attention beftowed in working it, in order to pro- duce a more perfect mixture of the ingredients. The chara&eriftics of a good and unadulterated chocolate, are, a deep flefh colour, a firm, fine, and fhining grain or texture, with little white rays, an aromatic fmell, a facility of melting in the mouth, with a fenfation of coolnefs, the producing no gluten in cooling, and the having an oily cream at top. [In England, if chocolate is perfectly prepared, no oil appears in folution, perhaps, becaufe our double , TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 47 double cylinder is well calculated for exaft tritur- ation.] . The general characters of bad and adulterated chocolate are, a black pitchy colour, an infipid tafte of fyrup, a farinacious unequal coarfe grain, a burnt fmell while preparing for the table, a glu- tinous moifture, the melting watery, and a fat mixed fediment. Chocolate is adulterated in various ways ; by an unequal mixture of the various kinds of cacao, as for inftance, a fourth of Caraccas, a fourth of Guayaquil, and a half Weft India, for the firfl quality, inftead of two-thirds of Caraccas, and one- third Guayaquil : but even the moll honeft makers of chocolate find themfelves compelled to adul- terate, whenever, the price of good cacao having rifen confiderably, the public will not give higher prices than ufual for chocolate. The baneful and moft blameworthy adultera- tions are, the expreffing the cacao oil, in order to fell the butter of cacao to the apothecaries and fur geons, fubftituting animal fat, and roafting the cacao to excefs, to deprive it of this foreign tafte ; the mixing it with rice, flour, potatoes, honey, fyrup, &c. A pound of Caraccas chocolate cofts, even here, near three livres j you may therefore eafily imagine of what quality thefe mixtures muft be in Germany ; chocolate muft alfo be pre- pared 48 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. pared in a proper manner, in order to retain all its ftrengtb, anpl a good flavour. The rule is, one cup of water to two ounces of chocolate. It is fuffered to melt gently over the fire, and is poured out as foon as it begins to rife, after which it is heated a few minutes longer, in the cup, on the hot cinders. [For heat fuddenly applied both coagulates it and feparates the oil.] T&AV1-LS IN SPAIN, LETTER XIII. fete in honour of Peace. 'The G.une called 'Ballon. A Sail- Fight. Char after of the Inhabitants of Bayonne. Arrangt* ments for a Journey in Spain. Bayonne, May, 1797. YESTERDAY all Bayonne was in a tumult, cele- brating a fete on account of the preliminaries figned at Leoben with the Emperor. The pro- ceflion confided, as ufual, of bands of mufic, young people of both fexes, the public function- aries, the gardes nationales, &c. It was a very fmgular appearance to behold a triumphal car formed of green lattice work, covered with pine- branches and red cloth, in which Mars,' Apollo, Ceres, and Viftory, fat very fociably together, and it mull certainly be ignorance or want of civifin in me, to confider thefe ceremonies as ridiculous and mean. The fete concluded with fire-works at night, which proved, indeed, its principal ornament. Laft Sunday, for the firft time, I faw the game called ballon, or air-ball, of leather, filled with air by a machine, which is a favourite exer- cife with the Bayonnefe and the Bafques in general. The lightnefs, agility, intereft, and at- tention, beftowed on it, ftruck me forcibly, and the E numerous 53 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. Humerous crowd of fpeftators feemed 'by their en- thufiaftic acclamations to excite to the utmoft the ambition of the players. But the bull-fight, which had newly been intro- duced before the Porte d'Hfpagne, was frequented with dill greater ardour. As the Spaniards of the neighbouring country often come to Bayonne, either on commercial bufinefs or for an excurfion of pleafure, fome enterprifing perfons, in order to attract them thither ftill oftener, have engaged a Spanifh toreador or bull-fighter, and eflablimed that fpecies of diverfion. The novelty of this fpectacle attracted all Bayonne ; but many connohTeurs, who were enabled to judge of the performance by com- parifon, thought it execrable : for it confided merely of two bulls quite tame, who were cruelly tormented during fome hours by a few banderil- leros throwing darts wrapped in paper, or charged with gunpowder, and their dogs. The Bayonnefe are generally confidered as the very Gafcons of the Gafcons themfelves, and their exaggerations relative to the pre-eminence of their little town are infufferably ridiculous. They .are accufed alfo of being cunning and artful toward ftrangers. If a general inference could be drawn from particular examples, I mould be at no lofs for inftances. On enquiring for a conveyance to Bilboa a voiturier was recommended to me, who, for thrqe days journey to that city, did not fcruple II to TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 51 to aik me twenty piaftres, though he would not employ more than one mule, and while I was re- monftrating againft the unreafonablenefs of the demand, feveral very well-drefled perfons came up and voluntarily took part with the voiturier, and faid the price was very moderate. Fortunately I was previously informed of the contrary. I therefore broke off my negociation and took other meafures. Hearing of a bifcayan veflel that was trading to Bilboa, and which was to fail about the end of the week, (a coafter, called here a chaffemaree^) I waited on the captain, a fine young man of a tractable difpofition, and was afked no more than five piaftres for myfelf and baggage ; and though this, as I afterwards learned, was typo high, twenty 1 franks being the common price, we immediately agreed, and we fail to-morrow. 2 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER XIV. The Port of Bajonne. Its dangerous Bar. Occupations. Fears. Boucault ne'ar Bayonne, at the mouth of the Adotfr* May, 1797. I HOPED to have.dated this letter from Spain, but thofe hopes are literally fled away j for the wind has changed to the fouthward. The day before yefterday the captain had me called at four in the morning, but, with all the hafte I could make, I was too late, and was obliged to purfue him in a boat. The river affords a very grand profpect, for there the eye commands a view of Bayonne with its mountains and environs, which form an amphitheatre, and a fcene of beauty more" eafy to admire than to defcribe. The wind however mifted on a fudden to the fouthward, and caufed an infupportable heat. The whole atmofphere feemed on fire, the water of the river tepid, the made of the fails which were extended over us afforded but little fhelter, and, feeing but little hopes of a change, I came on more, and took refuge at the inn. Two days have already elapfed in waiting, and though the wind is a little more eafterly, the bar gives TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 53 gives us little hope. We have gone feveral times as far as-the pilot's light-houfe, at the point of the dyke, but the roaring- of the waves is dreadful, and their found like thunder, efpecially during the night. We mud however have patience. The captain tells me he has fometimes (laid here twenty days ; we mail be very lucky if we efcape with the lofs of a week. Notwithstanding the labour that has been be- ftowed on the conftruclion of thefe two fine dykes, built for the benefit of the trade of Bayonne, this dangerous bar is almofl an infurmountable obftacle ; and they fay five or fix veflels are wrecked there almofl every year. We faw, upon the Downs, the remains of a veflel that had been wrecked there laft month. Near us lie two Dutch (hips with Ruffian co- lours, and three Danes, bound for Amflerdam, Hamburg, and Bremen. All the captains, -and by turns the failors, come on more daily to fee the bar and take refrefhments at the inn. The Dutch bring their wives and children. My Bifcayan captain plays every day with his people at nine- pins, and the winnings are fpent in drink, of which they partake in common. To remain at a fea-port waiting for a fair wind is a ftate of extreme irkfomenefs. My only re- fource is a fmali wood behind the houfe, where I E 3 go 54 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. go to read my Spanifh books. Our hoft is, at once, a pilot and a filherman, but he is out all day, which is a great mortification to me, as it deprives me of his interefting converfation, which I can only enjoy at night. It is now the fifth day, and the bar does not ap- pear more tranquil. The captain is gone to the town to procure frefh provifions, and every one looks forward till the day after to-morrow, when the moon will enter her firft quarter, at which time the fea begins to grow calm. I may however be obliged to (lay another fortnight. What a lofs of time ! But I throw down my pen j for ope ftiould never write in a bad humour. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER XV. Departure. View of the Coafl. Sax Scbaflian. Contrary Winds. Gu-taria. Fir/I Imprejfions .-~ -A Bifcayan Hoftefs- Singular Beds. Arrieros. Chrijiian Souls. A Surgeon's Library. Guetaria, Bifcay, June, 1797. THE night before laft we went, as ufual, to the pilot's light-houfe, when the bar appeared more practicable, and the captain bee;an to form fome hopes. In (hort, we got out to fea the next day at noon. The veflel was towed by two large boats on the other fide of the river. We were tf.e la It that performed this manoeuvre, and I h;id oblerved the five others at my leifure ; but however fright- ful the mocks received by the head and (tern of the fhip may appear, they are but lirtle felt by thofe on board. The other veffcls failed to the northward, and we remained alone. A coafting voyage, how- ever, can fcarcely be reckoned going to fea. As our diftance increafed, the blue fides of rhe Pyrenees difplayed themfelves in all their nr In the diftance a ridge of mountains {lurcf-en ,u< ng in confufed irregular maffes toward the ica, and terminated in a ftecp declivity of rocks covered \vith farms and cultivation. Behind us ihe ver- 4 dant $6 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. dant coaft of Gafcony gradually difappeared, and, in front, we faw the reflected light of diftant fails. We had an eaft wind, which, though faint, was favourable, and foon got fight of the citadel of San Sebaftian, fituated on a promontory. The fun was fetting, the fhades of the rocks were lengthen- ing, and a delightful coolnefs fofe from the furface of the fea. The points of the Pyrenees fhone with a golden light, and a deeper hue adorned the furface of the waves. We caft anchor under the guns of San Sebaftian. The night was mild and ferene, the heavens fpangled with ftars, and the fea in perfect calm. The morning, however, proved as ftdrmy as the night had been tranquil. The air was full of dark clouds, the wind began to blow ftrong from the fouth-weft, the fea grew heavy, and we found it very difficult to beat up againft wind and currents. The captain determined however, to keep out at fea, and we manoeuvred as well as we could. In the afternoon the wind grew fo boifterous as to lay the fhip down, and we (hipped feveral feas ; we determined therefore to haul our wind clofe, and make the firft port we could, which happened tp be Guetaria, where we arrived at feven in the even- ing, and a boat being fent off to us brought us to a fjnajl dyke, where we dropped anchor. This TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 57 This village refounded with tambourines, in the balconies toward the fea were women in veils, and the boats in which we crofled the bay were full of young girls fmgularly drefled, and whofe hair floated in long brown treffes. The appear- ance of a crowd of monks in large black cloaks and covered with immenfe round hats walking on the dyke, the drefs of our pilots, their culottes adorned with ribbons and black velvet, their red waiftcoats, and redeclllas or hair nets, in a word a total change in every appearance, and innumer- able fenfations, which I cannot defcribe, apprized me I was in Spain. The captain propofed to take me to an inn, to which 1 confented. Having landed, we {raffed through an arch-way without gates into a fmall fquare, where the people were dancing the fan- dango, though it was now fo dark I could fcarcely fee, and my guide recommended me to an old woman, whom we found in a fmoky kitchen, whither I entered with a firm refolution to accom- modate myfelf to whatever I Ihould find. In the province of Bifcay it is well known that the ancient Cantabrian language js preferved, and the Caftillano or Spanish, is ipoken very little or very ill ; fo that it was with the greateft difficulty that my landlady and myfelf could make ourfelves underftood. However, I had no fooner anfwered her firft enquiry, whether i was a Chriftian, by which 58 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. which is meant a catholic, in the affirmative, than (he was fo pleafed with me, that (he brought me aftone- bottle of delicious wine and a large loaf of bread made of flour and maize in equal quantities, but of a very pleafant tafte. She had nothing elfe to offer, except a dozen fried fardines or fprats with which I was obliged to be contented. When I retired to reft, I found no other bed than a paillafle of maize leaves, laid on vine twigs, and two blankets ; and, foon after, four muleteers (arrieros) came in and occupied the two other beds. One of them fpoke French tolerably well, was extremely pleafed to find I was a chriftiano^ and I could not refufe tafting his wine. Next morning I found, in the kitchen, a woman younger than the former, but fcarcely at all hand- fomer. This was the old woman's daughrer, and miftrefs of the houfe. She fpoke Caftillano with tolerable purity, and knew fo well how to aik me queftions, that my monofyllabic anfwers fufficed to inform her of the object of my journey. " Senor," faid (he, " la grazia de Dios acompanara a vm. Efpana es el mejor pays del mundo. Las almas chriftianas fe alegraran de ver a un hermano, y le ayudaran a vm. en todas fiis emprefas." The grace of God, Sir, will accompany you. Spain is the beft country in the world. The fouls of Chriftians will rejoice in feeing a brother, and will aid you in all your undertakings. She TRAVELS IN SPAIN. $9 She then led me into the fala or great room, which was tolerably nea't. Meanwhile her hufband returned, and addrefied me in bad French. Be- fides being an inn-keeper, he was the furgeon of this fmall place, and, in the la(t war with France, had learned a little French of the foldiers who had been quartered in his houfe. I looked over his books, among which I found tranflations' of Dr. Buchan's Domeftic Medicine, and of Tiflbt's Avis au Peuple, a Complete Treatife on Surgery, a Treatife on the Materia Medica, and a Diflerta- tion on Midwifery, All this convinced me of the progrefs of knowledge in Spain, which I obferved with pleafure. 60 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER XVI. Guetaria; Its Situation and Appearance. An Indiana. A Mountainous Country. Grand Scenery. GuetarUi June 1797- You here receive a more minute defcription of Guetaria than you will find in the mod elaborate treatifes on Geography ; for, to avoid ennui, I have been employing thefe three days pad in mak- ing myfelf fully acquainted with the place. The town of Guetaria, which contains near three hundred inhabitants, (lands at the foot of a moun- tain encompafling a fmall bay. A high pyramidal rock nfes oppofite to it, 'being feparated by the fea, but communicating with it by a narrow dyke four hundred feet long. On the right and higheft fide is a vaft recefs ; on the left, which is much lower* are a multitude of cafcades formed by the fea, which rolls its waves among the granite pebbles. When the wind blows ftrbng from the fouthward, the fea rifes to a prodigious height, and falls on the other fide in an extremely fine fpray. On a pro- jection beyond the rock is built a platform, where fome of the pilots are always on guard, immedi- ately to put off to fuch veflels as wifh to enter the port. The TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 6l , The dyke leads diredly to the foot of a great rock that commands the village ; it then makes an elbow toward the right, and forms a third bafin, in which lie the fifhing-fmacks. The three other fides are defended, either by the rock, or by a caufevvay laid on a reef of fmall inferior rocks. At the end of the dyke toward the beach are a battery and a corps de garde for the defence of the bay. To the fummit of the rock is near an hour's walk, conftantly winding through fields and brambles : but though from below the points feem impaflable, yet it contains a chapel, and a her- mitage, but which at prefent is uninhabited. The view of the fea it affords is immenfe, and the fpec- tator fhudders on looking down at the abyfs, while the fteep and mining fides of the rock are continu- ally lamed by the foaming waves. Guetaria has only one well-built houfe, belong- ing to an Indiano ; that is, a man who has made a fortune in America. He may have about a thou- fand dollars per annum, but his countrymen be- lieve him poffefled of millions. I became ac- quainted with him, arid found him affable and well informed. As he has no heirs, he fpends his money, and does a great deal of good. He has made, for inflance, at the foot of the mountain, a very fine well, and has a fcheme of forming a new road to communicate with fome of the adjacent parts. 62 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. parts, He is generally carried in a fedan by two young girls ; but his only enjoyment feems to con- fift in fmoking the fineft Havannah tobacco, and he had a flock of above two hundred pounds of cigars. His houfe is the only one, not even ex- cepting thofe of the ecclefiaftics, that has glafs windows, iron balconies, drinking glafies, arm chairs, or pewter plates. The mountain, at the foot of which this place ftands, is cultivated in a fuperior manner. What a charming profpecl: ! As the fpeclator gradually afcends, and the reef of rocks that furround the bay unfold themfelves, till he reaches the fummit, he views the vaft extent of ocean before him, and the fteep mores that on either fide lofe themfelves among the clouds : the eye ranges over a long ridge of mountains covered with flowers and in- terfperfed with trees; here it beholds the bay co- vered with fiming-fmacks ; there, the town and gardens; and, farther on, the mountain itfelf. What a rich fcene ! what luxury of vegetation ! everywhere fields, bufhes, vineyards, chefnut-trees, and myrtles, and on all fides fountains and caf cades. In (hort, 'tis a fcene at once magnificent and wild ; and the ocean, on which the eye looks down with aftonifhment, gives it additional charms. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 63 LETTER XVII. The Mafs. Ecclefiaftics . Latin Eloquence. Sardine Fijkery. Departure. GueUrli, June 1797. WE ftave been hoping in vain for a fair wind, of which as yet there is not the leaft appearance : the captain however goes on (hore daily to fill his bota, or leathern bottle, and to hear mafs ; and at firft I thought it right alfo to go to church, to avoid offending my fhipmates. Indeed, every man being educated in one fe& or another, why mould we not waive our own ha., bits and cuftoms, to procure the good-will of our neighbours ; for after all, it is here mere matter of cuftom, and I confider every cuftom, in matters of religion, as an affair of policAi But would you imagine, that in this little place there are no lefs than ten ecclefiaftics. Two of thefe once addrefled me in Latin : " Bona terra eft Hifpania," faid one; " Tellus optimus et divitiffi- mus," added the other : " Non moriebimur per famm," refumed the firft ; " habemus feges et vineas, campos et boves, caftaneas et multas po- mas." Thus the converfation went on in this barbarous Latino-Hifpanic ftyle j our friend L. would 64 TRAVELS IN SPAIN-. would have been highly amufed to hear therrt. Thefe ecclefiaftics meet every evening regularly at a public houfe, where they mutter round a large difli of fardines, and a pitcher of flill more capa- cious magnitude, in which they drown all the cares of their holy office. Thefe fardines, or fardinas, fupply the inhabi- tants not only with a cheap kinjd of food, but alfo a profitable article of trade ; and the fimery is con- fiderable in June, July, and Auguft. Three or four boats jointly extend a large net, with which they form a circle, and then wait feveral hours at anchor : when they perceive by their floats that the net is full, they draw it in, and the quantity they catch js immenfe. The ufual price is about a halfpenny a dozen. A confiderable quantity are falted for winter ; and when faked, or fmoked, they fell for about three farthings the dozen. This fifh is of the fame fpecies with the bretling, caught on the coafts of Holftein ; and not the fame as is fold in Germany under the name of far- dine, which is the anchovy of the French, and is caught in the Mediterranean. ; On board the San Jofef, The wind has fuddenly become fair. A fea- voyage is an exaft image of human life. . As we propofed to fet fail at day-break, I came on board laft night. My bill amounted only to two piaftres for fix days, and my hoft and hoftefs took an af- fedionate TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 65 fedlionate leave of me. Our failors, together with the captain, feafted themfelves at the public houfe the evening before our departure, and it was near one in the morning when we got on board. The full moon illumined the fea and mountains, the fhadow of the veflei trembled on the bofom of the deep, and to the eaftward the light-houfe of San Sebaftian caft a glare over the dark (hade of the coaft. Before fun-rife we were out of the bay. The wind was fair, the fea calm, and we had nothing to fear but Englifh privateers : but as the coaft was in made, we kept under the land, hoping thereby to efcape notice. Toward noon we hailed a fiming-fmack, and ex- changed a bottle of French brandy for a large difh of fardines ; but having no gridiron, we drefled them on wooden flicks, and ate them with a keen appetite. The greater part of the coaft is fkirted with high and mining rocks, interfperfed here and there with a few bufhes of myrtle ; and from time to time the openings between the mountains prefented us with charming views up the country, or of a beau- tiful and interefting more. At length night came on, and we dropped anchor. 66 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER XVIII. $ay of Bilboa. Its firft Appearance. Portogaltte. Charming Banks of the River of Bilboa. Qlavijaja. Approach ts Bil- boa.Cafa de Antonio. Bilbo*, June 1797. WHEN I arofe this morning, I was much pleafed to fee our Bilboa pilot again. He had come off the evening before with a veffel, and had caft anchor near us during the night. A fmart breeze filled our fails, and we foon made the promontory of Machicaco, though not without fears of falling into the clutches of fome privateer that might be lying in ambufti ; but our good fortune did not forfake us. The flags we faw along this coaft were Spanifh. We doubled the cape without difficulty, and at length landed in the bay of Bilboa. Imagine to yourfelf a mountain on the right covered with verdure, along which runs a village of white houfes, interfperfed with fields and or- chards ; on the left a low flat rocky more clothed with bufhes, and in the diftance a ridge of moun- tains that rear their menacing brows toward heaven, and you will have an idea of the firft ap- pearance of the bay of Bilboa. But TRAVELS IN SPAltf. 67 But on approaching nearer, other objects begin to unfold. On the right we perceived the village of Portogalete with its church upon a height ; on the left a fmall hamlet concealed amid vineyards and clumps of trees, and in front a multitude of veflels ready to fail. We pafied the bar in fafety, and the tide carried us rapidly up the river. I could not give you a better idea of its charm- ing banks than by comparing them with the views upon the lake of Waldftetten in Switzerland, ex- cepting that the river being narrower than the lake, its frequent windings give its views a more interelr* ing variety. Thus we are furprifed by a fudden view of the convent of San Nicolas upon the fummit of a mountain with its fhaded terraces, at the foot of it a whole fleet of mips riding at anchor, and beyond it a chapel, a clufter of houfes embofomed in foliage and furrounded by fields and vineyards. The whole country has a general character that brought Switzerland ftrongly to my mind. As we approached the port itfelf, half an hour before we arrived at Bilboa, the river, which is rather fmall, became narrower and narrower,. The right bank is fldrted with fteep rocks, and is adorned with a fuperb quay ; on the other are fertile fields, which purfue the acclivity of high mountains. We pafled along a triple row of veflels, and cafl anchor fafeiy off a harbour called Olavijaja. F a Accuf- 68 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. Accuftomed to the broad rivers of the north of Germany, you would be furprized to find on this narrow and tranquil ftream all the advantages of navigation unaccompanied by any of the inconve- niencies of that dangerous element. Whenever I contemplate thefe banks, fo near to each other, and fo gay and fmiling, thefe mountains covered with verdure, and thefe rich fields, I fancy myfelf beholding in miniature the environs of the Garonne, which I have lately quitted. I agreed to travel on foot together with our captain the remainder of our way to the town, which as yet we could not fee. Our road followed the bank of the river, and was adorned with country-houfes and gardens. We foon came in light of the towers of Bilboa, ftill having the river clofe to us, walked through a magnificent avenue of trees, patted a convent and fome other houfes, and then found we were in the midft of Bilboa. I doubt whether the environs of any other maritime town afford more pi&urefque or more romantic views. We paffed along the broad quay, which was lined with mips, and entered an inn called Cafa (3e Antonio. Every object around me here has fomething very fingular in its appearance, and their forms are quite original and foreign. The rooms are covered with floor-cloth reprefenting bull-fights, the feats mean, old-fafhioned, and extremely low, the floors are brick. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 69 brick, and the walls full of faints and cruci- fixes. But I muft lay down my pen j for I hear the bells of the nunnery oppofite my inn and beyond the river ringing for vefpers, and the people are crowding into the fala. 70 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER XIX. Situation of Bilbao. Ridges of Mountains. TJje River and its Band banks . Arcbiteclure . Population . Bilbo, July 1797. BILBOA is fituated in a valley clofe to the river Ybeyzabal (which in the bafque language fignifies the narrow river), about three hours' way from the fea. Above the town the valley is fo narrow, that the royal or high road (camino real) has been cut through one of the neighbouring mountains. This fame valley grows narrower flill above Bilboa, which ftands in a more fpacious angle, and forms a ^triangle. In this bafin, as it may be called, the town is continually expofed in autumn and winter to fudden and violent mowers, but on the other hand it is flickered from the north wind, and enjoys all the advantages of a fine alpine country. Imagine to yourfelf two ranges of mountains, one oppofite to the other, ( terminating in gentle hills, and forming below a narrow valley almoft entirely filled by the river. Thefe mountains, like all the neighbouring country) are interfperfed with fields and houfes, embellimed with the greateft variety of plantations, vineyards, chefnut and apple trees, TRAVELS IN SPAIN. ft trees* vegetables, maize, &c. Nothing can equal the riches and magnificence difplayed by Nature on every fide* Thefe two ranges of mountains advance almoft in a ftraight line to the coaft, where they open, and the river widening confounds its waters with the ocean. A few leagues above the town the river fcarcely appears more than a large brook, though at the commencement of the valley it turns feveral mills. But foon its banks again approximate, and the dream rolls with a roaring noife over the rocks. Near Bilboa it is fo low that mod carriages pafs through it; but near the fir ft bridge its bed widens, a few paces lower it bears fmall mips, and a little farther (hips of 300 tons bur. then. It is faid that at moft a century ago larger veffels came up to the town, but a fand-bank in the middle of the ftream has fmce increafed fo much, that it cannot now be pafied with the higheft tide. Indeed at low water the river is confined to fo narrow a bed, that two boats can fcarcely go abreaft. The confulate of Bilboa is now taking into confideration a plan propofed by an Irifhman to remove this fand-bank; and it is very defirable this plan may be adopted, as it would be extremely advantageous to the trade of the town, at lead in point of convenience. P4 The 72 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. The town of Bilboa, as I have faid, is fituated on the right bank of the river in a recefs of the valley. Two bridges, the firft of which is of wood, and confifts of a fingle arch, join it with another quarter on the left bank. The upper part is antique and unpleafant, the ftreets narrow, and the houfes rather high, but ill built. AH the flreets of this part end in the great fquare, along one fide of which the river flows. In this fquare, excepting the town-houfe, which is adorned with gilt balconies of good workmanfliip, there is not a fmgle edifice deferving notice : but the lower part of the town is new, and contains three fine broad ftreets, all ending at the arena! or promenade along the bank of the river. The houfes are all built of freeftone, fome of them magnificent, and there is a very fine row of houfes built a few years ago behind the arenal. This part is feparated from the promenade by a circus cfed for the game of ballon (juego de pelota), a game to which the inhabitants are extremely partial, and on which they are very fond of betting. From thence the fpeclator has a grand view of the river, the valley, and the mountains. As to the population, Bilboa feems at firft fight fcarcely able to contain 8000 inhabitants; but they are fo crowded and heaped together, that they amount to 13,000 j and th$ houfes, which are TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 73 are four and five flories high, are fo fully inha- bited even to the roofs, that a very fmall apart- ment with an alcove lets for fifty piaftres a-year 5 add to which that a fpanifh family generally occupy much lefs fpace than a family of Germans. Thus you will eafily conceive how many bJaividuals a houfe may contain. Building however goes on every day, becaufe the war compels the rich capitalifts fo to employ their money. Perhaps alfo the upper part of the town may one day be improved and embellimed, the appearance of which is more cheerful becaufe it is on a declivity and forms a kind of terrace. In the old town the houfes are built moftly of wood, in the new of brick. The former are deftitute of art or convenience, but in the latter we find a prodigious improvement of tafte. In lieu of the heavy balconies of wood, they are of iron, and very neatly manufactured ; and in lieu of the wooden mutters and fmall round panes of glafs ufed in the old houfes, we find large panes and Venetian blinds. The only thing, that aftonifhes and difgufts foreigners, is the finding certain con- veniencies placed in the kitchen and clofe to the chimney. 74 TRAVELS IN SPAW. LETTER XX. Promenades at Bilboa. The Arenal. The Road to Qlavijafa.* The Road through Albia over the River. Ranges of Mountains to the right and left* Promenades above the Town. Bilboa, LET us now begin our walks round Bilboa. The burning folano or eaft wind has given place to a cooling zephyr, and a refrefhing fea-breezc has reanimated the creation. We will firfl pay a vifit to the arenal, as it is called. Four rows of elms and linden trees form its fine tufted walks ; on the right is a magnificent church with two towers, on the left the river, the banks of which are well cultivated, and the back ground is formed by the mountains. Going on by the Auguftin monaftery, and parting a fecond avenue of trees, the eye beholds without obftruc- tion a grand profpeft comprehending the whole courfe of the river and the two chains of mountains I have already fpoken of. Thus we arrive at Olavijaja, where we take a view of the magnificent group of mountains which feem to unite behind Bilboa, and which prefent to the eye all the pomp of luxuriant ferti- lity. To return along the other fide we crofs a ferry; After TRAVELS Itf SPAIN. 75 After the tumult of the port we have juft quitted, we enjoy with fo much more pleafure the folitude of the convent of Francifcans fhaded by enormous chefnut- trees. Here we behold a magnificent profpect. On all fides are hills clothed with verdure, vineyards, cheerful and peaceful dwellings. The innume- rable windings of the road exhibit the greatefl variety of profpects, labourers cultivating the earth with their iron fpades and finging as they work, women occupied on the banks of the brooks and rivulets, while at a diftance we hear the tinkling of bells calling the inhabitants of the cloiftered cell to vefpers. Thus we proceeded as far as the the village of Albia, which is oppofite to Olavi- jaja. Yefterday I conducted you along the banks of the river : we will now take a range among the mountains. You remember no doubt the wild romantic regions of the Alps, their numerous fprings and fountains, fometimes limpid, fometimes foaming amid the mofs-grown rocks, the pifturefque fhrubberies and plantations that overlook the abyfles, jind the blue mountains that form the happy retreats of our beloved Helvetians : here you would find the fame landfcapes, the fame romantic fcenery. We have proceeded half way, and are now dofe to the capuchin monaftery. The mift that covered 76 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. covered the valley already begins to difperfe, and we breathe a purer air ; the valley unfolds beneath our feet, but the objects flill appear too near us, and the horizon too much circumfcribed. We go from height to height, and after an hour's climb- ing, arrive at length at the furnmit of the moun- tain. Here (land two fignal-ftaves for veflels ; for which reafon this point is called Punta de las Ban- deras, or (imply Las Banderas : for when a (hip enters the bay a red flag is hoifted, and when they fail out a white one ; if a fhip is wrecked on the coaft, a black one ; and when privateers appear in fight, white and red. This point being the higheft, and vifible from the principal ftreets of Bilboa, thefe news fpread inftantly. "Wherever I turn my eyes, what majeftic fce- nery ! what an aftonifhing variety of enchanting objeds ! Thefe awful mountains, this fertile vale interfperfed with peaceful dwellings, this rivulet that meanders foftly beneath the {hade, that har- bour with a foreft of (hipping, and the ,boundlefs ocean rolling along in all the majefly of its filver light ! This country equals the moft ravifhing profpe&s in Switzerland, and is perhaps fuperior to it on account of its vicinity to the fea. As we defcend the mountain, we enjoy quite a different profpedt, and a total change of fcenery. On leaving the capuchin monaftery, we find a very convenient TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 77 convenient flight of fteps cut in the rock by a bifcayan gentleman for the accommodation of his confraternity. The paths on the left fide of the mountain are no lefs convenient and eafy, than thofe on the oppofite fide are painful and difficult. Apparently attention has here been paid to the wants of the hamlets and fifliermen who fupply Bilboa with fi(h. The road is broad, well paved, and in many places has a ftrong refemblance to thofe of the leffer Saint-Bernard. At one of the moft beautiful points of view we perceived the lower mountains, the town, and in the bottom the river with its cultivated banks. As we were nearer to the port, we clearly diftinguimed the mips, but an immenfe rock obflructed our view of the fea. The profpect, though of a different character, is not lefs beautiful on the mountains that com- mand the town, and from which the eye takes in the whole of the valley. Along the bank of the river and on the fide of the mountains are two promenades, at one of which, called Los Canos, there are fuch beautiful profpefts and fo com- modious a pavement, that it is one of the pleafanteft walks I have feen. The promenade called Paflco de los Agoftinos on the declivity of the moun- tains to the eaftward, combines novelty and beauty in i:s profpects. But why talk of fo many different promenades. The environs of Bilboa form but one. 7$ TRAVELS IN SFAW. LETTE& XXI. Carpus Cbrijti, or Holy Tburfday. The Proctjfion. Grotefque Figures. Angelas or Angels. Bull-Fight. Aficionados. Dogs. Bilboi, I AM now to give you a defcription of fome feflivals, that were celebrated foon after my arrival here. The firft was the Corpus Domini or Holy Thurfday, one of the principal roman catholic feftivals, built on one of the mofl important dogmas of that religion, and at the fame time the mod lucrative for the clergy. It is this popular religious fete that gives date to the mofl important civil tranfaftions and the principal domeftic events. It alfo gives occafion, or affords a pretext, for a multitude of public and private amufements, and for that reafon, as well as for many others, is in high veneration with the peculiar protegees of Saint Anthony, I mean the taylors. On the eve of this day all the church towers were illuminated, large fires were lighted on all the mountains, and from two in the morning all the bells were in motion. At fix the ftreets were full cf people crowding round the altars, which 5 were TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 79 were richly decorated, and the balconies were loaded with fpe&ators ; but the procefiion did not begin till near ten o'clock. Four gigantic figures, two men and two women, drefled up in a ridiculous manner, began the march. They had long periwigs made of flax, and coeffures of red .oiled cloth, ancient drefies, fuch as copes and other flrange and grotefque liabiliments. They had muff-boxes as large as a plate, and fans an ell long. They pretended to be about to embrace the fpec- tators in the balconies, which they almoft reached, and at the corner of every ftreet danced a very- pretty fandango. " But how," you f will afe, * c could all this be contrived ?" Nothing more eafy. The figures, except the head and arms, are mere machines drefled up, beneath which are men who give them motion. After thefe came a band of mufic and a multi- tude of angelos, or little boys and girls, moftly in rich drefles, with long pafteboard wings covered with fatin. It is a fafhion for good families thus to drefs up their children for this proceflion, The fuperftition and the vanity of parents are alike deeply concerned, and make every one rival his neighbour, and endeavour if poflible to furpafs him. The children are loaded with jewels, and their heads are (haded by a tower of hajr, H prder to have long trefles floating between their wings. 8 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. wings. They are covered with every poffible de- coration, careffes ,are lavifhed on them, their pockets filled with fweatmeats, and every one beholds them with a fort of refpecl, which the little creatures feem to command by their proud and magifterial air. After thefe came the various confraternities with their refpective faints, moftly in wood, and tolerably well fculptured. They were drefied in velvet or (ilk, and crowned with flowers. A fecond band of mufic and clouds of incenfe announced the VENER- ABILE, that is the hoft, and a crowd of men and women dreffed in gala clofed the proceffion. If the morning was confecrated to devotion, the afternoon was appropriated to the corrida or bull- fight. This fpecies of popular feitival will be the more interefting to you, as it is but little known in Germany. The expectation excited by this amufe- ment, the preparation of the fcene of action, and the arrival of the bulls had thrown all Bilboa into a ferment ; nor was any thing fpoken of but the corpus domini and the bull-fight, and the great and little children alike thought of nothing but the approaching combat, and amufed themfelves with joufting at artificial bulls. During the laft three days the bulls were led about the town in grand proceffion amid the acclamations of the populace, and at night in particular the fquare was filled with an innumerable crowd of people. At TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 8t At each end of the fquare an amphitheatre was ere&ed, and the whole inclofed with high palifades. The benches ^and balconies on either fide bent under the weight of the fpe&ators ; the church fteeples, the roofs of the houfes, the neighbouring bridge, the buildings beyond the river, even the hills and francifcan convent upon the height, were all full of people, and in the fquare itfelf was a crowd of aficionados or amateurs, who came there to be adive in ftriking the bulls, but fo as to efcape in cafe of need by leaping over the palifades. In fpeaking of this diverfion we muft obferve a diftinftion between the corridas de toros and the corridas de novillos : the former are the great bull- fight properly fo called, in which the combatants are on horfeback, and the bulls mud; be killed 5 defcriptions of which everywhere abound. There are alfo engravings publiflied in twelve plates of various fizes, reprefenting the twelve principal fcenes of a bull-fight. Thefe are taken from nature, and exprefs the minuteft details. There is a copy of them infmall in the laft (gerrnan) edition of Bour- goanne's travels, The corridas dc novillos are com- bats of young heifers, in which the beait only receives . flight wounds, and is irritated and provoked into fury. But to return to my defcription. , The fquare was covered with fand, and the placfe where the bulls were kept was by the fide of one of c the 82 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 'i the amphitheatres. It was open at top, and each bull had a feparate ftall. Here feveral aficionados mounted on the planks and irritated the bulls to make them furious. At length the corregidor or mayor gave the fignal, when a ferjeant drefled in white opened this inclofure, and had fcarcely leaped out of the way before the bull furioufly rumed into the arena. Several men on foot expected him with ban- derillas or darts, but he ran impetuoufly toward the four fides of the fquare feeking a way out. In the middle of the crowd, who held out pikes, hay-forks, Hicks, and parafols, the aficionados were diflin- guifhable, emulating each other, and ftriving who firft mould place his hat or his cloak on the horns of the bead, or flrike him. But one could fcarcely avoid laughing at the agility and ridiculous poftures with which they fcrambled over the baluftrades as foon as the bull feemed feriouily to aim at them. But the banderillas were foon infinitely multiplied, and in a fhort time the bull had no retreat ; he was covered with them, and flew away feveral times, roaring and fhedding torrents of blood. The fpeclators defirous of varying their amufement, now cried on all fides for the dogs (los perros ! los perros !) and at length a great bull-dog was let ioofe at him. A' new TRAVELS IK SPAIN. 83 A new combat now commenced, in which the different inftinft of the two animals was apparent, the one endeavouring to conquer by art, the other by force. The dog always attacked his enemy fideways, and turned off at every motion of the bull> who always kept his horns ready to tofs him in the air, which he frequently did. If the dog avoided the blow, and at length fucceeded in feizing the bull, the latter dragged him along in fury, and ftruggled to trample him under foot or dam him in pieces againfl the inclofure. Another dog was then fet at him, and he remained without defence. He dill dragged the dogs indeed along, but the latter kept their hold, and continued to hang by his ears. To feparate them, eight very ftrong men ad* vanced into the arena, feized the bull by the tail to deprive him of the ufe of his ftrength, then took him by the hindfeet, threw him down, and pinched bim in a tender part. Thus he lay quite faint and lifelefs, and the dogs immediately quitted their hold. A few minutes after the bull rofe again, roaring, trembling, and feeming again to feek the enemy. At this moment fome cows were fent into the area, and he followed them very readily into the flails. Another bull was then turned out, and the fame fcene renewed fix or feven times fuccef- fively. During the fight no mufic was heard, except that a -few beats of the drum announced c 2 from 94 TRATELS IN SPAIN. from time to time a change of fcene. During the intervals the fpectators took their refrefhments (merienda). They mowed their impatience by {baking in concert their handkerchieves in the air, and applauded any mafterly addrefs (golpos ex- cellentes) by acclamations of bien ! bien ! Surely nothing but early habit and education can attach the Spaniards to this cruel diverfion, nothing but a miftaken ambition, a want of cultivation, and the ignorance of man's true pleafures, can nourifh this barbarous and inhuman paffion, and we ought to blufh for mankind, when we behold our brethren making a feflival of fuch atrocity. At night I was witnefs to a very comic fcene. The fquare was illuminated with faggots of fir and fome barrels covered whh whale oil in the middle, and the place was crowded with people, when all on a fudden a young bull was let loofe among them with his horns tipped with leather (embolado) ; and the fires, the crowd, and the mufic, fo terrified him, that he rufhed among the fpectators and threw them down by dozens. At length a cloak was thrown over him, rockets and fquibs were fattened on him, and this pleafantry, which at firft appeared likely to prove ferious, contributed to the diverfion of the people. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 85 LETTER XXII. Political Conjiitution and Privileges of the Province of Bt/cay. Pride of the Inhabitants. Municipal Advrinijlration of tht Town. The Alcalde and Corregidor. Municipal Taxes, Police. Singular Law. Prifons. Law again/I In- gratitude. Bitboi, Aug. 1797. THE province of Bifcay is well known to be a province not properly dependent on, but only under the protection of the fpanifli crown. It is indeed a kind of political anomaly to fee a fmall republic thus united to fuch a monarchy as Spain. But however unlimited may be the power of the kings of Spain in their other provinces, it is a truth, that in Bifcay they have only the fhadow of do- mination. Here are neither garrifons, cuftom- houfes, (lamps, nor excife (fifa) ; in fhort, of all the royal taxes, they know none but the donat'ivo or gratuitous donation. Bifcay is governed by itfelf and receives by mere condefcenfion a corregidor and a commiffary of marine ; but does not permit any order of the Spanifli government to be exe- cuted without the fanclion of that of the province. It cannot however be denied, that the privileges of the province and the pretenfions of the crown are c 3 very 86 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. very often in oppofition, and that the former do not always feem to prove victorious. All the inhabitants of Bifcay call themfelves hidalgos or gentlemen. It is only in Bifcay, fay they, that the antient cantabrian nobility has been preferved without mixture of moorifh or foreign blood, and they add, that the king himfelf does not approach to the nobility of a Bifcayan. The lowed labourer and the greateft lord of the province are in this refpect perfectly equal, but the provincial government is in the hands of the latter, and is annually renewed by the majority of the parimes. As to the municipal adminiftration of the town, they proceed annually after chriflmas to the election of eight regidores, in whom the right of voting of the inhabitants is each time veiled. Thefe regidores choofe their aflefibrs, thefe choofe the alcaldes and other functionaries, who choofe the confulado or tribunal of commerce. All thefe of- fices are difcharged gratis ; but the regidores and alcaldes enjoy fome advantages in confequence of wine leafes, which fubject the former each time to a confiderable tax. The alcalde gains flill more by law-fuits j for it has now become a cuftom to fee the judge. It muft be obferved however, that pleadings before the alcaldes are oral, as they are ia writing before the regidars, the former being civil, and the latter criminal judges. At Bilboa the de- C ifions of the latter are in all cafes without appeal, except TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 87 except to the fuperior tribunals of Valladolid and Madrid. In the -town there are no taxes except a very fmall land-tax and a voluntary contribution to the hofpital. There is not the lead excife or cuftom- houfe duty. Bilboa is even almoft without gates, being always open to every traveller. The pafiage over the bridge alone is fhut every night with an iron grating, but of which the bars are fo wide, that it is eafy to pafs through ! The police is not entirely neglected. There is a code of regulations on that fubject, which every alcalde publifhes in the fame order, at leaft once a year. Among thefe fome concern weights and meafures, the cleanfing the ftreets, the fafety of flower pots in balconies, &c. One of the mod an- cient and the mod refpetled prohibits the ufe of carriages, which indeed could not be employed on account of the narrownefs of the ftreets. Thus every foreign carriage that arrives is obliged to re- main without the town, where none but fledges are admitted. Among the new regulations of the alcaldes fome are very fmgular. For inftance an old alcalde who was a widower ordered that immediately after the angelus-bell in the evening no woman mould appear with a man in the ftreets, under pain of imprifonment, and during the firfl; week at leaft o 4 thirty 88 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. : thirty were arrefted ; but perfons of diftinction finding they were too particularly included in this prohibition, the law fell into difufe. I mall take this opportunity of faying fomething on the fubject of the prifons, which are fituated without the town on a very fine fpot near the fea fhore. Moft of the prifoners are on the firft floor, where they enjoy wholefome air, together with a profpeft of the country and of the high-road. The jailer does not forget that his prifoners are hidalgos, and the paflengers give them plenty of alms. The only caufe of regret is that no diftinc- tion is made between perfons confined for debt and criminals ; but great crimes are fo uncommon in Bifcay, that not a fmgle inftance is remembered during the laft fix and forty years. I muft tell you of a phenomenon in legiflation here, namely that among the ancient laws is one igainft ungrateful children or wards, by which they are condemned to pay certain pecuniary fines for the ufe of their benefactors. But it is fo difficult to inveftigate thefe hear-fay tales, that I dare- net affirm it as a fact, via TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER XXIII. Simple Manners and general Character of the Bifcay ans. Amufe- tnenfs of Bilboa. Romerias. Tertullas. Cojfee-Houfes.*^ Wine-tioufes. Concerts of Amateurs. * Bilboa, Aug. l?97 SIMPLICITY is no lefs confpicuous in the manners than in the political conftitution of Bifcay, and if I were to defcribe the province in one word, I mould fay that Bifcay is the fpanifli Alps inhabited by Grifons. The Bifcayners have the fame hatred for innovation, the fame fturdinefs, the fame love of their country and of liberty, and the fame upright- nefs of character, but like their climate they have more fire and more vivacity. We mud not then expeft to find at Bilboa (however rich the town may be) the fame amufe- ments as in other parts. There is no theatre, no library, &c.; promenades, romerias or public balls, and tertullas (pronounced tertulias) or evening con- verfation parties, are the only refources the place affords. Of the promenades the inhabitants are pafiion- ately fond, and the ladies drive who (hall appear there with the greateft brilliancy. At firft the ap- pearance of fo many people in black veils feems rather $O TRAVELS IN SPAIN. rather dull, but the eye is foon accuflomed to it, and the wearers only feem the more amiable. I muft now tell you of the romerias. The Bifcayans have a national dance, which concludes nearly like the fandango, and which is accompanied by a fmgular fpecies of mufic with fmall tambourine* and little flutes. A firing of young women taking each other by the hand follow the leader in a ftraight line, who from time to time turns back and foots it to the reft. There is a kind of nobility and grace in all her motions. The reft only file off carelefsly behind her. On the other hand, the young men led in like manner by a corypheus form another row, who by degrees approach the women who advance before them, when fuddenly the mufic changes to a quicker meafure, and each of the young men being oppofite to a lady, they begin a fandango, of which the rapid gefticulations have a fmgular effect difficult to be de- fcribed. Thefe meetings take place in fummer al- moft every Sunday and feaft day, fometimes in one place, fometimes in another, and are called ro- merias. A romeria is a feftival for all Bllboa, and 'there are almoft as many fpeclators as dancers ; for the pafiion for that amufement is univerfal. The fcene is generally beneath fome tufted fhade near fome houfe of entertainment, but as there are always more women than men, the former often dance to- gether TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 9! gather, which does not prevent their enjoying the amufement extremely. But their chief pleafure confifts in archly running againft people, efpecially thofe who are not dancing, crying out with a loud laugh toma la culada^ and the falls this occafions are fometimes very laughable. This pleafantry be- comes more frequent about dulk, before the place is illuminated with barrels covered with whale oil. The mufic cofts nothing, thefe expenfes, which are very fmall, being defrayed by the monasteries, re- ligious confraternities, rich individuals, or the town. There are even endowments exprefsly for that pur- pofe. We will now fpeak of the tertullas, which have however been defcribed by other travellers, and which are the fame at Bilboa as elfewhere. The women appear there in fafliionable coloured drefles in which they cannot go out except in the evening. Strangers eafily find admittance in confequence of their letters of introduction, but whether through pride or ignorance, they receive there no perfonal attentions. Accuflomed to good fociety in France and Germany they feel in fome meafure infulated and awkward in thefe companies, where a mere local converfation prevails, ant! every thing they fee fills them with difguft or ennui. In fact Bilboa has all the defects of fmall towns, and thefe are by no means inconfiderable in the fmall towns of Spain, As 2 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. As to public amufements, there are none except a few coffee-houfes and public houfes, and a fo- reigner is furprifed at not finding more in fo im- portant a commercial town. One of thefe coffee- houfes near the arenal is kept .by a Swedo-German of Wifma-r, who has married a Dutch woman and turned catholic. As he alfo furnimes dinners, and his wife knows a little of all the languages, mofl of the captains of (hips meet there. In the entrefuelo [or fmall ftory between the ground flour and prin- cipal rooms]], and which are here ufed as warehoufes, are very indifferent billiard tables, with which peo- ple are forced to content themfelves. The other coffee-houfes are ftill worfe. A Frenchman intends to fet up one more convenient at the other end of the arenal. Along the quays and road leading to Olavijaja are wine houfes very much frequented by failors and captains of mips. Their reputation is fome- what ambiguous, but the coarfe mirth that prevails there gives great variety and animation to this pro- menade. Of late a concert of amateurs has been formed, for which the place is principally indebted to the bohemian merchants eftablifhed here. It is gene- rally they, who together with their domeftics com- pofe the town band of Bilboa with the affiftance of two german trumpeters paid by the public. Thefe jjentlemen have alfo colleaions of mufic,, with which TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 93 "which they furnilh the churches ; for the inhabitants of Bohemia, as is well known, are almoft born mufical. Their attendants conftitute the chief gr- nament of the feafts of the confulado (dias de campo), and they fafcinate all Bilboa with the marches they play as they. return at night by water in barges magnificently illuminated. So much for the amufements of Bilboa. Thofe who wifh for books or newfpapers may find fome in Spanifli at the booldtalls, where are alfo fold leaden pencils and fealing-wax. In all the great foreign houfes however are found the bed French newfpapers and fome good libraries. I {hall conclude \vit,h a few words relative to the women. In my opinion they combine the dignity of the Spanifli with the beauty of the Eng- lifh. Their frefh complexions, their black and fparkling eyes, their fine hair, their. embonpoint, the harmony of their perfons, the vivacity of their con- verfation, all charm and fafcinate every ftranger that beholds them. If the men underftood the art of forming them, if their abilities were developed by a more general cultivation, if an exceffive referve, a little ftiffhefs, and a pride that borders on rudenefs, did not countervail their other amiable qualities, /heir charms would be irrefiftible and their power unbounded. In the inferior claffes they are ftrong and laborious, and are employed as porters 94 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. porters to carry very heavy burdens. In general throughout all conditions the manners of this peo- ple are, according to credible witnefles, the pureft of all Spain. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 95 LETTER XXIV. Commerce of Billoa. Exports. Wool. Cbefauts, &c. Mariner of jhipping them. Imports. Internal Commerce. Tiendas* Smuggling. Foreign Trade. Bohemian Houfes. Difficulties in obtaining Ptrmtffion to ejiabltjh Houfes of Trade. Hatred toward the French. Emigrant French Priejls. Tbt Bafque Language. Bilboi, Sept. 1/97* OF all the northern coaft of Spain Bilboa is undeniably the moft important port ; yet its articles of exportation are very few, confiding only of wool, chefnuts, iron, and oil. Merchants purchafe wool* by means of their agents in the inland provinces, and fend it to England, France, and Holland. Thefe cargoes confift annually of 50 or 60,000 bags, the value of which amounts to 5,000,000 of piaflres. You would imagine this article has fuffered during the war, but the contrary is the fact. The confump- tion of cloth has increafed, and the commiffions from foreign parts have been more confiderable. During the time of the embarkation of this article, which is generally in the laft months of fummer, the ftreets and the arenal are full of bags of wool, and the river and port crowded with boats loaded with them. In thefe boats, which are called <)6 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. called lanches gabarras or long boats, the good; are conveyed on board, and each bag is prefied by a machine upon deck, that the veffel may hold its proper loading. You will eafily imagine, that in conveying fo great a quantity of bags, much wool mud fall by the way : yet no one dares pick it up, becaufe it is prohibited under pain of excommunication to touch the wool belonging to foreigners. However, I never obferved that any one takes any care of it, and thus no doubt it becomes an abfolute lofs to the proprietors. How eafy would it be to employ in this way the poor children which here abound, and how much more economical, if in lieu of being totally loft it were fpun into yarn ! Chemuts are another article of exportation, and grow in profufion throughout the province, efpecially in the part called Caftro. They are brought to Bilboaby the peafants in the beginning of November., and the price is regulated by the abundance of the harveft. It is generally about a piaftre the fanega or fac of twenty-five pounds. All the roads are at that time covered with little carts drawn by oxen, and loaded with this article. The merchants inform their correfpondents of the day on which they intend to fhip them, and the carts difcharge them into boats a little above the town. A great number of perfons are then employed in weighing and picking them. As thofe which are too ripe are liable TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 97 liable to become mouldy and to fpoil the others, they belong of right to the poor. A confiderable quantity is alfo ftolen ; but the great abundance of the article prevents any attention being paid to thefe trifling loffes. The profit however of a merchant who has received commiffions for this commodity is very uncertain. The infurance on chef- nuts, like every article of trade that is liable to fpoil, is reftricted by many claufes not applicable to other goods ; and if the paffage is long, and the bad weather prevents opening the port-holes to ventilate the goods or drying them in the fun upon deck from time to time, half the cargo and fre- quently the whole is fpoiied before it arrives. The greater part of thefe fhipments go to London, Briflol, Amfterdam, Bremen, and Hamburg. Two other productions, but the exportation of which is only made to the ports of Spain itfelf, are iron and oil. The iron of Bifcay is very fit for the forge on account of its malleability, and large cargoes are fhipped to Coruna, Ferrol, and Cadiz. The ore that contains this iron comes from the celebrated mines of Sommoroftro, and is fent by water to Bilboa. It is landed above the town, and from thence is fent to the fmelting- houfes. The director of thefe mines is a German. A part of the oil of the neighbouring parts of Caftile is exported in fmall boats to the neareft ports, as for inftance Plazencia, Ribadeo, &c# H The 98 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. ' The imports of Bilboa are very important, and include all the productions of the north. The principal articles are wheat, flax, hemp, timber, britifh, french, and german manufactures, baeallao, cheefe, whale oil, &c. &c. Old and New Caftile and the north of Aragon are fupplied from Bilboa with the greater part of thefe articles. The con- fumption. of baeallao is fo great, that the Danes, who carry on that branch of trade fmce the war with England, namely about the end of the yeajr 1796, have received from Bilboa in exchange above a million of piaftres, although the norwegian fifli is far inferior to that of Newfoundland. From what has been faid you will perceive, that Bilboa carries on a very important inland trade, and on fome days as many as forty mules fet off to fetch thefe articles. Thus too is all Bilboa full of warehoufes (tiendas\ and as very little is fold retail and that very dear, the price is always kept up very high. You will eafily imagine how the price of any goods mud be raifed, that pafs from the hands of the merchants to the retailers, and from them to the huckfters. Only to mention flax, of which as you know a Riga fhipping-quintal or 400 pounds make 342 pounds of Bifcay weight, a (hip-quintal Thifenhaufen fells at Riga on the average at 25 albert-dollars, and at Bilboa for 65 piaftres. The albert-dollar is worth 21 reals of vellon or one-twentieth more than a dollar. What an enormous profit ! TRAVELS IN SPAIN* 99 Add to this the profits of fmuggling. At Bilboa all imports pay only one per cent.; but on paffing the frontiers of the neighbouring provinces they pay the cuftomary high duties. Some articles are abfolutely prohibited, as tobacco, muflins, &c. ; yet the merchants of Bilboa fend whole chefts of thefe manufactures, bales of tobacco for fmoking and for muff, &c. to their inland correfpondents, and bribe or deceive the cuftom-houfe officers. The muleteers bring in great quantities of watches and jewels, and the monks fmuggle long rolls of tobacco under their cloaks or in their fleeves. Of the foreign merchants the Germans are the moft numerous. Thefe are chiefly dealers in Bohemian glafsware, who by degrees procure flocks of other goods, and at length deal in all forts of articles. Such houfes of trade are found all over Spain, and they receive the greater part of the goods that arrive from Nuremberg,. Augftmrg, Reinfcheid, Heilbronn, &c. by the way of Amfter- dam and Hamburg. Thefe merchants formerly carried on more bufmefs than at prefent : for fmce Spain has alfo eftablifhed fimilar manufactories, and the number of bohemian houfes has increafed, it is faid this lucrative bufmefs has confiderably dimi- nifhed. Many difficulties, however, attend the eftablifli- ment of a foreign houfe of trade at Bilboa. To obtain permiffion to. fettle here the applicant muft H a give tco TRAVELS IN SFAIN. give prowtfof his nobility, that is, he mud mow by inconteflable documents, that there never has been a jew in his family; Thefe proofs are fometimes ftrengthened by< a few folid piaftres, and it often depends on the confulado or tribunal of commerce to admit or rejeft the demand ; for at Bilboa no foreign confute are recognized ; but in cafe of fliipwreck this tribunal performs the office, which is very expenfive to the concerned. Thus the inte- refts of commercial men,, avarice, or private pique, have always an opportunity to intrigue. This takes place principally with regard to french houfes, toward: whom more rigour is ufed than with Ger- mans, becaufe the latter are deemed a more noble nation ; by which they mean of purer extraction. Hence there are only three french houfes, who only trade on commiffion and experience innumerable difficulties. The Bifcayans have in general a kind of national hatred for the French, which, fince the late events has increafed among this unenlightened people even to horror, and the very name of Frenchman has become almofb a profcription or afligma of infamy, which the populace accompany with ftones. Here- tics as they are, the Engliflr are preferred* A great number of them however have in confe* quence of the war procured^ american paffports. To this hatred indeed toward the French fome exceptions ars admitted in favour of emigrant and refra&ory TRAVELS IN SPAIN. refractory priefts, who have been received with great generofity and philanthropy. But as their brethren would not permit them to perform mafs in the town, they have fpread over the neighbourhood by thoufands. Portogalete, Santa-TJrfa, &c. are full of them. The number of frmch refugees in Spain are computed at 22,000. Befides the revenue they derive from their mafles (about fixpence each) they employ themfelves in, handicraft trades, prac- tife phyfic, teach languages, ferve the rich canons, and adopt every means of fupporting their wretched exiftence. Previous to the 5th of September 1797, a period which robbed them of every hope of returning home, they arrived in crowds at Bilboa. A great number had already pafled the frontiers, and thou- fands had embarked and were on the point of fail- ing, when that fatal cataftrophe took place. What- ever be any man's feel:, he can fcarcely refufe his compaffion to thefe unfortunate victims of terror, who having abandoned the afylum they had juft found in Spain, and having exhaufted their laft refources to re-enter their native country, were again expofed to indigence and to the dangers of a wandering fugitive life. I mall conclude this letter by fome obfervations relative to the language of Bifcay, called Bafquenze or lengua bafcongada. H 3 Accord. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. According to the beft works on this fubjeft it feems to be proved, that this is the ancient lan- guage of the Cantabri, which has been here pre- ferved pure and unmixed. Larramedi and Hervas afiert, that it does not referable any known lan- guage either in its founds, fignifications, or phrafe- ologies. Both thefe writers were ex-jefuits, the one being a native of Bifcay, the other of Galicia. Larramedi wrote a bafco-hifpano-latin dictionary and a grammar, which have become very fcarce. Hervas is a celebrated philologer now at Rome. I (hall have occafion to fay more of this writer when I fpeak of the literature of -Spain. In common ufage this language has been obliged to adopt french and fpanifh words to exprefs new ideas in civil life ; but with thefe additions it ftill continues to be the only language of the majority of the Bifcayans, who learn very little or no cqftellano ; nor is it entirely left off by people of condition. It feems full of confonants, and notwithstanding its accent, which is fomewhat finging, it is not deftitute of roughnefs. It is faid to be rich in poet- ical expreffions, and to have a great fupplenefs, but well-informed people accufe it of prolixity and obfcurity in its phrafes and idioms, * # * In addition to the above remarks, the follow- ing have been procured from the brother of the cele- TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 103 celebrated Monf. de Humboldt, who is alfo him- felf well known in Germany as the author of an excellent work. He is lately returned from a tour in Spain full of interefting information, and having compared all that has been written on the bafque language by the- learned men of that country as well French as Spanifh, he intends fpeedily to publifh the refult of his very ufeful refearches. Meanwhile he has communicated the following ideas : " The language of Bifcay deferves the particular attention of philoiogifts, though it has hitherto been too much neglected. Yet on even fuperfici- ally running over the vocabulary of that language, it appears that, fetting afide the nouns which were unknown at the firft civilization of that country, and which have been fucceflively borrowed from the Romans, the French, and the Spanim, the Bafqne has a very great number of words peculiarly its own, and all of which have a* character truly ori- ginal both as to their origin and formation. This primitive language, which is underived, not to fay unftolen like moft of thofe now fpoken in the fouth of Europe, from the Latin, feems however to have, in common with the Latin, German, and even the Greek, a great number of radical words, which might ferve as guides to etymologifts, and afford them light in their refearches into this ancient and primitive language, from which perhaps have fprung moft modern tongues, and of which it flill preferves H 4 fome 104 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. fome valuable remains. Even thofe who would be alarmed at the drynefs of fo irkfome a purfuit would find a pleafure in obferving the manner in which the Bifcayans compofe the figns of their ! deas ; that people fcarcely employing any but complex figns to exprefs ideas which all other languages reprefent by fimple figns, fuch as fun, moon, &c. It would be an object of infinite curiofity to a philofopher to obferve and purfue the analogy, according to which the Bifcayans combine certain ideas, fo as to form new figns and .exprefs their perceptions.; and there would doubt- lefs : thence arife many very ufeful obfervations on the originality and mode of viewing objects exercifed by that ingenious people. Nor is the theory of the bafque language deftitute of utility as to the hiftory of languages in general, their peculiar differences, and their formation. Not to mention feveral other fmgularities peculiar to this language, it feems in fome meafure to hold a middle place between thofe which like the galibies of Guyana are abfolutely destitute pf inflexions, exprefling all the modifications of ideas by different words, and the moft cultivated languages, wherein the final fyl- lables are fo intimately combined with the funda- mental found, that they no longer appear com- pound, but fimple radical founds, and wherein we -no longer didinguifh'how that which was originally a .compound can have become a mere modification of TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 105 t)f inflexion. But hitherto the Bifcayans who have written on their language have known very little of other languages, and have had no other object in view, but to enable their readers to read, fpeak, and write the Bafque, although the grammar of father Larramedi affords a little more of theory, which it even carries to excefs. We have not how- ever a fingle dictionary that gives a general view of the families of words, nor is there as yet more than an hifpano-bifcayan vocabulary with the bafque words in alphabetical order after the Spanifli. The foreign writers that have fpoken of this language in my opinion only give a very incomplete idea of it. What they have leaft of all attended to, is the enabling their readers to judge for themfelves. They go on building fyftem upon fyftem, and are pleafed to derive the Bafque fometimes from the eaftern languages, fometimes from the Celtic, but they give us very few ideas on its compofition, not to mention that the examples they have adduced, on which to found their chimeras, are frequently felefted with equal partiality and unfldlfulnefs ; and they wade their time in particular on ufelefs dif- putes relative to the affinity or difference of the Bafque from the Bas-breton. Monf. Latour d'Au- vergne, in his " Origines gauloifes," confiders their difference as demonftrated ; and as he was himfelf a Bas-breton by birth, and lived a long time among the Bafques, his opinion is entitled to the io6 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. the more refpect. However before we pronounce definitively on the diverfity of thefe two languages, we ought to examine them much more profoundly as to their, radical words, which this author, though otherwife of high merit, does not feem to have done. After all it would be much better, that a writer mould leave thefe doubtful points afide, and merely furnilh philologifts with a detailed fynopfis of the language, endeavouring to develope its fyftem and grammar or lexicon as far as our imperfect data permit, and clearly to diftinguifli the radical words from their derivatives, in order to produce, : a double dictionary according to the bifcayan alphabet and according to that of fome other language. Thus might all the families of words be collected into a fmgle point of view, and the reader comprehend the entire mafs of the ideas of that nation hitherto abandoned to itfelf. Nor can he without fuch an inveftigation properly eftimate the language or draw inferences regarding it. Such an attempt might be confidered as. a preliminary ftep to the general hiftory of languages, fo much to be defired, and to a univerfal grammar. For this purpofe the principal works to be confulted are, " i. Diccionario trilingue del Caftellano, Bafcu- ence y Latin, fu autor el padre Manuel Larramedi de la compania de Jefus. En San-Sebaftian, i745 fol. 2 vol. < e . El TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 107 ** 2. El impofible vencido ; arte de la lengua Baf- congada, fu autor Larramedi. En Sala- manca, 1729, 8 voL " 3. Gramarica Efcuaraz eta Froncefez Urn Harrit. Bayonan, 1741, 6 vol. To this grammar is added a fmall and very im per fed vocabulary, bafque and french, and the contrary. " Among the printed books in the bafque lan- guage one of the mod interefting is " JL.es proverbes Bafques, recueillis par le S r d'Ochenart ; alfo Les Poefies Bafques, by the fame author. Paris 1657, 9 vol." I08 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER XXV. Provt/ioHt Sardines* Ckefnuts y Fruits, Wines. Climate. - Maladies. , OS. 1797. THE fcene has entirely changed thefe five days pad, and I am now in the midft of Old Caftile. Soon after quitting Bilboa I was furrounded by mountains, but a vaft number of loaded mules and a long train of carts drawn by oxen gave animation to the fcene ; though it is true that at firft the creeking of thefe carriages was extremely difagreeable, it not being the cuftom here to greafe the wheels. Firft day. We did not fet off till four in the afternoon, and continued travelling after fun-fet. The air was delicious. We were lighted by diftant forges, and the meafured found of the hammers mingled with the tedious tinkling of the mule- bells. Thefe bells (zumbones) are of copper and cylindric, two feet long and fix inches in diameter, and being hung to the neck of the mule at the end of TRAVELS IN SPAIN. . tl^ of the train, mow whether they proceed quick or flow. In this manner we arrived at length at Miravalles, a large village among the mountains, near the river, and near three leagues from Bilboa. The whoie pofada or inn was full of muleteers {arrleros} coming from Caftile, fo that thofe who followed fcarcely found any room. They foon afiembled round a large fire, where a crowd of people began to drefs their fuppers. The tables were covered with plates and jugs, and the different groups crowded clofe to each other j here two individuals playing the devil's tattoo on their pitchers, there a great newfmonger juft arrived as he faid from Bayonet de Francia ; next to him a guitar player and fome young women toying with their fweethearts, and beyond them fome drunkards quarrelling. Add to thefe the fqueaking voice of the landlady calling out and reckoning up her accounts, the confufed voices of the guefts calling for wine, the eloquence of the landlord endeavour* ing to fell a donkey, a tambouriner playing for the young people to dance, the noife of the mules feparated from the kitchen merely by a thin par* tition, the barking of dogs mingling with the general uproar, and you will have an idea of this , noify fcene, which became interefling through its variety and Angularity. i Our 1 14 TRAVELS IK SPAIN. Our beds however were excellent, and the bed- chamber covered with mats (efteras). When I awoke the next morning I was agreeably furprifed to find the fcenery around me perfectly firailar to that of our delicious valley of Chamouny ; the fame form of rocks, the fame kind of huts, and the fame mixture of fields and plantations. Like that, a torrent is feen rolling from the fummit of the mountain, nor were even the peaks of Mont- blanc wanting to embellifh the fcene ; mafles of filvery clouds rolled from peak to peak, and com- pleted the beautiful illufion. Second day. Our conductor having flept but little the preceding night rofe very late, fo that .we did not fet off till ten o'clock. We patted through feveral villages, always along a delicious well-cultivated valley, from which we perceived the 'fmiling profpect of the diftant mountains. We arrived about two o'clock at the fmall town of Orduna at the extremity of the valley, and fur- rounded on that fide with fine rows of trees. This place deferves fome attention on account of its antiquity and the fuperb architecture of its cuftom- houfe. We had given our conductor, permifiion to go for half an hour to his houfe, which he faid was only a mufket-fhot from the road, but he returned fo late thaf we could not fet off till five o'clock. His IN SPAltti tl$ His excufe for delaying was rather comic : " Mi muger es joven, y jamas podemos acabar con el rofario." " My wife is young, and we can never finifli the rofary." It was therefore already growing duik, the fky was full of clouds that promifed rain, and the Pena was covered with a thick fog. It was quite night when we arrived at the foot of the mountain, the wind rofe, and a gentle rain began to fall. But we had fcarcely been an hour on the road, when both the wind and rain became heavier. The rain turned to fnow, and the wind becoming boifterous drove a deluge of withered leaves in our faces. It was now fo dark that we could not fee our conductor ; but I per- ceived that the road was a conftant zig-zag, as was natural in afcending fo fleep an acclivity. Our mules foon difcovered the traces of anothef requa or firing of mules ; for fix or eight and fome- times more are tied to each other by their halters. They had left Orduna an hour before us, and ours now quickened their pace. When we reached them, we found the muleteer under great embarrafiment, two of his mules having fallen. This rendered it necefiary to unload them before they could get up, and he could not load them again without afliftance. Our arrival, which he did not expect fo foon, immediately relieved hina from his difficulty. He therefore obliged us, with an air of generofity quite in the fpanifh ftyle, to 12 taftc Il6 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. tafte of his large bota. Both parties were glad to find company, and thus we continued our march. But the higher we climbed the heavier the florin -grew. It began to hail, the wind became a hurricane, and unfortunately we had it in our faces. The mules could fcarcely keep on their feet, mine fell twice, and the darknefs was dread- ful. We were then at the top of the Pena ; we had three hours road to go down it, and no one could diftinguim the voice of his neighbour. Indeed a general filence prevailed ; for it was equally im- poffible to hear and to fee each other. Our muleteer, who was on foot, quite excited "my compaffion, and yet, as it was phyfically impoffible for me to confole him, my pity was ufelefs. Fearing he mould lofe his pay, he was inconfolable, and every moment begged us a thou- fand pardons. It is true he was the caufe of our delay, but yet he was the perfon mod feverely punimed for it. As for me I felt it a duty to pacify him ; for woe to him who increafes the pains and misfortunes of his fellow-creatures. I fet him therefore at his eafe, and a few friendly words made him infenfible to all the evils of the wind and the ftorm. At length we began to defcend, and in propor- tion as we approached the valley the ftorm abated. We could only go however flep by ftep ; and it jo was TRAVELS IN SPAIN. I IJ was midnight when we arrived at the venta fituated at the foot of the mountain. Here we were very kindly received, and had reafon to be contented with our fleeping place. Third day. The valley now widened more and more, and in the afternoon, having pafied through a fine country interfperfed with villages, we arrived after an hour's riding at Ofma, where we found the frontier cuflom-houfe of the province of Alava. The officers were fatisfied with feeling our pockets and bid the muleteer afk us for drink money (para echar un trago), which we had already prepared to give them. . Here the cultivation began to decline, the country to fpread, and the coftumes and counte- nances to aflame a more foreign air. The climate too became rougher, the villages were a mere heap of huts built with earth often full of holes. The churches however were always large and magnifi- cent, nor was there any fcarcity of convents. The fields were moftly uncultivated, and as far as the eye could extend, we perceived neither tree nor fhrub ; in lieu of mules we frequently met final! afles called borricos, fcarcely any oxen, but a great quantity of black fwine and excellent flocks of fheep. Our fleeping places became lefs clean, and the bread as well as the water bad j but the wine was better and cheaper. We n8 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. We foon perceived men In broad felt hats, long brown cloaks, with their feet wrapped up in rags, and knotted flicks in their hands j in lieu of the coloured petticoats and the elegant corfets of the Bifcayans we faw nothing but dingy-yellow gown?, and the beautiful treflfes I have defcribed were exchanged for fhort hair (landing up covered with felt caps, and over that a black veil. The countenances we faw appeared longer, the features lefs beautiful, but their eyes were more brilliant and more animated. The eafe and gaiety of the Bif- cayans had difappeared, nothing was feen but in-p digence and ferious forrowful countenances, though the language feemed purer, and the accent more fonorous. We crofted the Ebro, and paffed the night at a poor town, of which the name I believe was Villa-nueva. Fourth day. The road this day was tolerably fmooth, but we only faw defert heaths, and a-n arid calcareous /oil. However after travelling foine hours the valley grew narrower, and we entered amorg a chain of rocks, which we had long feen before us. It formed a part of the fierra de union. We parted it in the narrowed part, leaving it on our left, which very much mbrtened our road. The gigantic forms of thefe naked and a^ful rocks reminded me of thofe which fldrt the ice-lakes of Montpanvert in the Alps of Faucigny. Never mould TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 119 fliould I have expected to have feen them renewed . in the midft of Spain. Here every ihing wears the afpeft of the mod hideous flerility. We pafled a defile, where enormous rocks were heaped together over our heads with dreadful fublimity, and on the mod elevated point was an hermitage. At length amid thefe heaped-up rocks we arrived at a mo- naftery of capuchins, where the indudrious monks have formed a chearful garden amid the inhofpi- table wilds, and have even brought thither a rivulet to water their plantations. What an enchanting appearance amid a defert country, and contraded by fo many wild and rudely magnificent objects ! After dinner we re-entered on the plain, wVch is furroundcd by hills crowned with olives. We found the road indeed very animated, for it was full of monks and women travelling upon mules, carts drawn by oxen, and numerous troops of bor- ricos. Our way traverfed a vaft extent of unculti- vated heaths, that might eafily have been converted into fertile fields, till at length we arrived at a farm, half a league from Burgos, where we determined to pafs the night on account of the excellent forage it affords. On entering the kitchen our attention was attracted by two perfons' who fat by ! fide. One was a tall thin man with a vei y flat face and his hair in curls, the other was fat, had a nooie and intelligent appearance, was drcfled as a piigri.n, i 4 with 120 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. with a crucifix hung to his neck, a chaplet for a girdle, and almoft bald. The firft had fomething of meannefs and of pride in his air, as may often be obferved in ill-educated people who would give themfelves airs, he had his hat on, and puffed the fmoke of his pipe to a great diftance with much gravity and fpitting proudly upon the coals. The other was uncovered, and, crouching in a diflant corner of the chimney, was modeftly eating a mot fel of dry bread, to which he added a finall pitcher of wine that was brought him. I foon re- cognized the former by his queftions and pronun- ciation to be a french ecclefiaftic, and perceived the other to be a man of rank, whofe head was turned by devotion. The french prieft at firfl offered to retire, taking us for republican merchants ; but being undeceived by our muleteer, he addreffed us in French. Ac- cording to him the allied powers muft fpeedily enter France and cut to pieces at lead 8,000.000 of republicans in order to reftore the emigrant priefts to their benefices. It is really mocking to obferve to what extremes egotifm and the rage of party will carry the paffioris of mankind. One would almoft imagine cruelty were efiential to our exiftence, or a natural inftincl: that burfts forth as foon as occafion and circumflance give it an op* portunity to expand. This TRAVELS IN SPAW. 121 This morning we arrived at Burgos, and we fhall not leave it till after dinner; hut as you will find an account of every thing it contains worthy of notice in books of travels, I (lull be filent on that head. If a man wiflies however to become acquainted with the inhabitants of Old Caflile, he mud obferve them at Burgos ; for no where can he find fo many ill drefled people or ib many beggars in the flreets. Hence notwith- ftanding its extent, the place has a dull and inani- mate appearance. The royal hofpital is reckoned very rich j I have been told tru.t on Good Friday alone it diftributes to the poor as much as 1500 drefden bufhels of wheat in fmall loaves. The other churches as well as the moriafteries diflribute the like largeffes, and thereby afford daily en- couragement to idlenefs and beggary. It mould feem that all the inftitutions which do not purfue the fpirit of the age become pernicious. Burgos is on all fides fo much expofed to the north wind, that the greateft fummer heats are always moderate, but on the other hand the winters are the more fevere. Indeed we have now an autumnal air, which re- minds me of Germany, and our dilfancc from the temperate fea coaft becomes daily more and more 122 TRAVELS IN SPAIN-. LETTER XXVII. Road toLerma. A Mule falls fick.- Exorcifms and Holy Water. Road to Aranda, A Girl ivitbsut Arms. Aranda. Dragoons. Seine at an Inn. The Mafs. BoJJequillas. Pi&ure efMifery. Vent a of San Lorenzo. Road over the Somojierra. Noble Gorda.Bujtrago. A Catalonidn Inn. San-j4goftin Difference of Ne 127 elevation of mind, that interefted me in a fmgular manner in his favor. Eighth day. The next morning we faw before us to the northward the mountains of Gaadarrama with their fnowclad fummits ; and after three hours and a half riding we arrived at the foot of that chain at an inn called Venta de San-Lorenzo, where the fnow lay a foot deep. It was toward the fouth, but the fun had very little power, and every thing was covered with icicles. This part of the Guadarrama mountains is called la Somo fierra. The higher we afcended, the more piercing was the cold, and the road was almofl entirely covered with mow. The frozen fides of thefe inacceffible rocks, precipices ikirted with pines, fields of dazzling fnow, and the folemn filence of the fcene, all recalled the Alps to my mind, efpecially the neighbourhood of Saint Gothard. At length after two hours and a half we arrived at the deep village of Noble Gorda, which (lands on the peak/ of the mountain, and where during nine months in the year a fiberian winter prevails. The in- habitants carry on fome trade, and among other articles deal in fwine and wood, by which they procure a Tubfiftence. The road that leads to Somofierra is one of the mod magnificent in all Spain. It was begun by Ferdinand VI. and finiflied under Charles III. We d Afcended TRAVELS IN SPAIN. descended pretty rapidly, found the air below fenfibly milder, and after two full hours arrived at the fmall town of Baytrago, which by its ancient towers and walls is eafily perceived to have been a fortrefs. The pleafure of having overcome difficulties and the exercife of our own powers constitutes one of the delights of travelling, efpecially in a moun- tainous country, where the nature of the country is continually renewing this gratification. Full of fuch fentiments we entered the pofada, which we were agreeably furprifed to find was kept by Cata- lonians, who had brought thither the induftry, cleanlinefs, and gaiety of their countrymen. Their phyfiognomy, their complexion, their coftume, and their furniture, all bore teftimony in their favor. Among a crowd of travellers, that arrived from Madrid, was a furgeon who had juft paffed his examination, and, having been admitted, was going to take poffeflion of a bufmefs in a fmall town* He was a young man, had ftudied according to the new -plan^ and feemed to have particularly formed his ideas from the writings of our Plenck. I parted from him with regret the next morning, having conceived a great deal of efteem for him. Ninth day. Our Toad, which was fix fpanifh leagues, traverfed well cultivated fields", and palled through fome villages as far as San-Agoftin, which was our lafl fleeping place before we arrived at Madrid. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 129 Madrid. It was impoflible not to perceive, we were now in New Caftile and approached the metro- polis. We found more cleanlinefs and affluence, the furniture and accommodations improved, the language and manners of the inhabitants mowed more cultivation, the provifions were better, and nothing was talked of but the laft news from Ma- drid. We fet off the next morning about five o'clock to complete the remaining fix fliort leagues of our journey. Tenth day. I found the road worfe and more uneven than I expected, and we were obliged to pafs many very deep hills. The fcenery however was that of perfect cultivation, and the diftance crowned with forefts. Thus we arrived at San Sebaftian, three leagues from Madrid, and had there a kind of foretafte of the capital in well- built houfes and lofty latticed windows. Here for the firft time the dinner was ferved by portions, and french rolls and liqueur-wines (vinos generofos) could be had. We were ftill almoft two leagues from Madrid, when from a height we perceived that city with its innumerable towers. The nearer we approached, the more did the various objects unfold and the new palace in particular appeared in view. The whole country was well cultivated, and the new corn was fpringing up in all its glory. We entered K upon I3O TRAVELS IN SPAIN. upon a very fine road, which at every ftep became more interefling and more animated. Here we faw a multitude of women going to market on fmall donkeys with their blue petticoats turned over their heads like veils, there men in black jackets without fleeves, with green nets round their heads and brown cloaks, were riding two by two on one mule ; . dragoons making their horfes prance, one-horfe-chaifes full of wo- men, officers in port chaifes, long trains of mules loaded with baggage, and troops of unloaded bor- ricos crofled each other in all directions. Yet nei- ther avenues of trees, nor gardens, nor fuburbs, an- nounced the neighbourhood of Madrid. Every thing except a tolerable large farm is abfolute nakednefs around this metropolis. When we arrived at the pod of Fuencarral, the name of which is written over the gate in a fquare of porcelain, we were obliged to flop to be exa- mined, which is done with great rigour, efpecially as to fnuff. Before our turn came we faw above thirty panniers infpe&ed, which is done in a very fingular manner. The cuftom-houfe officers, being furnilhed with a long bar of iron channelled out and rubbed with greafe, pafs it in every direction into the panniers, where, if it meets with fnuff, fome will adhere to the greafe. We were dif- patched more quickly, becaufe we had had our portmanteaus TRAVELS IN SPAIN. portmanteaus fealed, and our paflports did not de- fcribe us to be merchants. I was furprifed to find a few paces from this poft in the middle of the road a heap of dirt, upon which lay a dead carcafs; but prefendy a broad road between loftv houfes with an infinity of balconies, churches, and con- vents engaged my whole attention. Y 2 132 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER XXVIII. Situation of Madrid* Its Diti'ifions and Population. Its Arclri- tecJure, Streets, and Squares. Defcription of a Street crowded with People. The Square called la Puerto del Sol. Pojiing Sills. Pedlars, Huckjlers t &c. Diverjifed Multitude. Noon and Afternoon. Girls. Criers. Evening. Detached Scenes. MADRID is fituated in the centre of Spain and on all fides almoft equally diftant from the fea. It ftands higher than any other town, on an unequal plain, at fome diftance from the river Manzanares. It prefents three principal views, the one toward the road to San Sebaftian, a fecond from the heights before the gate of Alcala, and the third from a hill before the port of Segovia. They have all different chara&ers, but the lad appears to me the fineft. It is from thence, that the city is feen in its greateft extent ; to the eaftward the gardens of the Retire, the Prado, and the other plantations on the bank of the river, to the weftward the new palace, the rows of trees along the river, and fome country- houfes. The eye then purfues the couife of the Manzanares with its bridges and canals, and in the diftance TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 133 diftance appear the lofty mountains of Guadarrama covered with fnow. Madrid forms an irregular fquare, of which two fides look toward the river, and the other two to the country. The town is furrounded by a wall of no great thicknefs, but tolerably high, and built of mud. It is eafy to walk round it in three hours and a half. A line drawn from the Puerto, de Fuencarral to that of Toledo divides the city in two parts lengthways, and the diftance is an hour and a quarter. Another line drawn from the Puerto, de Alcala to that of Segovia divides the city tranfverfely, and is a walk of nearly three quarters of an hour. According to the laft accounts by Lopez, in his Geografia moderna^ the number of inhabitants, excepting the garrifon, the hofpitals, and children, amounts to 130,980 occupying 7icohoufes, and it contains 77 churches 44 monafteries and 31 con- vents. Mod of the churches and monafteries are not detached buildings, but adjoining to other edifices. The old houfes are almoft all of wood, but the new ones of granite, which is brought from a diftance of fixteen or eighteen leagues. The old houfes rarely exceed four ftories, but the new have five or fix. The former are decorated with paint- ings reprefenting bull-fights, dancers, &c. in which the ancient coftume is difplayed. The others are quite fimple, and almoft all painted yellow. The K 3 o!4 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. old windows are high and narrow, the balconies fmall, the frontifpieces projecting, but the new are quite the contrary, they are all in the Italian ftyle, but there is no fcarcity of images of faints, cruci- fixes, and madonnas. This mixture of old and new buildings is parti- cularly ftriking in places remarkable for their mag- nificence or deformity: thus -for inflance in the ftreet of Alcala, or near the cuftom-houfe, which is a fuperb edifice, you find an old mean building, and oppofite to it awkward unfightly erections; ancl in the ftreet called Strada de la Conception are fe- veral magnificent edifices by the fide of others, that refemble old barracks. The ftreet of Alcala^ the Red de San Luis, the ftreet of San-Hieronimo are undeniably the fined and mod animated, but they are disfigured by many old buildings ; the flreets of Toledo, Segovia, and the Calle-mayor with its low arcades confift in great meafure of old and difpleafing buildings, though here and there we find a few new and tolerably regular edifices. In, the firft of thefe ftreets are even fome wafte fpots. The celebrated fquare of Puerto, del Sol 'is decorated on one fide by the great arid magnificent building qf the poft-office called el Correo, but the two others; are full of difgufting old houfes, two of which were till lately fhored up, though they are at laft pulled down ; and as for the Plaza mayor, defcriptions pf which are everywhere to be found, to admire it 10 we TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 135 we muft forget the fine fquares of other capitals. But all comparifons apart, a fquare clofed on all fides, and deflitute of every profpeft, does not appear to me calculated to embellifh a great city. However, ?s I am not giving you a topographical defcription of Madrid, I (hall refer you to the map fold here by every printfeller, and to which the folio wing work ferves as a key j " Madrid a la vifta, o defcripcion general compendiofa que mueftra quantos tiemplos, fundaciones religiofas, quarteles, barrios, manzanas, calles, cafas, edificios, tiendas, y operarios contiene, arreglado el dia 10 deDixiembre de 1797." This map is fuperior to the copy of it in Bourgoanne on account of the names that have been added, as well as of its neater execution ; and the work, which is clofely printed, contains the mod modem accounts, more particularly thofe of Ponz in his travels, and of Lopez in his defcription of the pro- vince of Madrid. Let us now take a view of one of the mod animated ftreets, as for inftance the Red de San- Luis. What a varied crowd ! what a confiiilon of founds ! Women in black and veiled, men in long cloaks, water-carriers, fruit-fellers, magnifi- cent equipages, dufty diligences, light calefas, waggons drawn by mules and groaning under an enormous weight, a multitude of afles with their pack-faddles and bells, and herds of goats, with psafants going from door to door to milk them. K 4 Further 136 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. Further on blind muficians finging their tornadillas or popular fongs, and alguazils crying the orders of police, a crowd of gallegos or porters, procef- fions of chaplets, guards following the drum, or confraternities efcorting a funeral and fmging pfalrns, the tinkling of bells at all the neighbouring churches, and laftly the folemn proceflion of the ve- nerabile or hoft, when the bells of the children of the choir being heard, every one kneels down, all tongues are filent, and all hats off, all the carriages flop, and the tumultuous mafs feems inftantaneoufly petrified ; but two minutes are fcarcely elapfed before the accuftomed clangor is renewed. In the centre of Madrid, a fpot which is ufed as a place of aflemblage by all the inhabitants, and as a general rendezvous by all perfons of bufmefs, is the fquare I have . already mentioned, called La Puerta del Sol (or Sun-gate), in which the moft frequented flreets terminate, as the Red de San- Luis, the Calle-mayor, and that of San-Hiero- nimo. The public fquares are ufed throughout Spain as promenades and places of aflemblage. The fmall towns and even the villages are not without fuch an open fpace, which is generally in front of the church. It is there the Spaniards recreate themfelves after their labours, or enjoy the warmth of the fun in winter, and even thofe who fcarcely ever quit the town regularly refort there. From ~% this TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 137 this you may eafily conceive the appearance of fuch a fpot in the centre of the metropolis. It has ftruck eleven, and a troop of officers of the guard with brilliant accoutrement:?, monks in ' black cloaks, charming women in veils embroidered with gold holding the arms of their cortejas^ and a party coloured crowd of all kinds wrapped up in their cloaks, pour from every ftreet to read the advertifements and polling-bills (noticias fueltas) : " To-day there will be a fetinon and mufic at the Francifcans ; there will be an opera and fuch and fuch plays : to-morrow there will be a bull-fight, or the novena of San Felipo commences : Loft yefterday at the prado a little girl, and this morning a chaplet : Stolen three days ago fuch and fuch a jewel; if it has been taken through want, and if the thief will reftore it by his confeflbr, he mail receive a handfome reward : The day after to-mor- row will be fold by auction a large crucifix, an image of the Madona, and a nacimiento (or cafe containing the infant Jefus with the two other perfons of the trinity in wood, plafter, &c.) This evening the proceflion of the rofary will fet out about eight o'clock." Meanwhile the fquare is conftantly filling, fo that it becomes very difficult to pafs. Here are criers of journals (tunning the pafiengers with their noife, people reading the gazette for a quarto (a farthing), Walloon and fwifs guards offering goods TRAVELS IN SPAIN. goods for fale, hackney-coaches plying for fares, old clothefmen, coblers, (harpers, .fellers of images and cigars, and huckflers of all kinds tor- menting the pafTengers ; there a numerous circle crowd round an ingenious memorialifta or notary, a very profitable occupation and abounding in every ftreet, for nothing is to be obtained by verbal applications even to a paflport, for 'which a memo- rialito muft pafs through an infinity of offices ; and there a loto with a dial to be pulled, next him a juggler with dancing monkeys, and farther on goods felling by auction ; women ogling the paf- fengers alfo mingle in the crowd, while capuchins with long beards parade with gravity and folemnity. Here you are attacked by a couple of ballad- fingers, and there annoyed by an importunate beggar; to all which is added th^ noife of car- riages and calefas, and of the neighbouring fountain re-echoing with the loud hallooing voices of the xvater-carriers. This place is far more noify flill on Sundays and holidays, when crowds of people are flocking to the neighbouring churches. It is the fafhion to pafs thefe days in the fquare, and many a fair who has miffed her lover at church is fure to find . him here. The groups then crowd upon each other to the very gates of the church, and every pn,e appears in his bed apparel. But TRAVELS IN SPAIN. But it (hikes one* and the crowd d'fappears ; the porters range themlelves near the houfes to lleep the fielta or eat their dinner ; all the fhops are (hut, at the corners of the ftreets the huckfters cover their ftalls and ftretch themfelves i)efide them on the pavement, the place is cleared, the moft noify ftreets are quite deferted and dead, and a folitary pafknger is rarely feen. But no fooner do the bells ring for vefpers, than all is life again, and at four o'clock the place is crowded anew, At this time ladies of eafy accefs iiTue forth from their retreats, fpreading on all fides, and no modeft woman dares be feen abroad without her cortejo pr her duenna and frequently both. The former is the fame as a cicifbeo, of whom I mall fpeak hereafter. The latter was formerly a fevers governefs or guardian of the wife paid by the hufband, and frequently chqfen from among his relations, but now a mere lady's maid. The women I was fpeaking of however are free from this flavery. Their light and bold walk, their fhort and fluttering petticoats, of which the long and tranfparent fringe expofes to view at every ftep a delicate and beautiful leg, thofe enticing veils which rather dilplay than conceal their charms, their large nofegays, and the coquettifh play of their fans, characterize thefe dangerous fyrens. 140 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. fyrens. A word or a look, however curfory, fuffice to produce an aflignation, which is after, wards fettled more at leifure in fome neighbouring ftreet. The firft-rate demireps, who ftill keep up exter. nal appearances, generally take with them a little girl eight or ten years old,, who ferves as their duenna, and, proud of their charms, they wait till due homage is paid them. Thofe of the fecond clafs, who go alone, ufe lefs referve ; they fmile with grace, and employ the moft feducing allure- ments they poflefs. At this time come the venders of cool water {aguadores) crying " Agua frefca ! agua frefquita ! quien beve ? quien quiere ? Aora viene de la fuente !" " Cool water, nice cool water ! Who drinks ? who wants any water, juft frefh from the fountain ?" Thefe men carry on their fhoulders a large ftone pitcher fattened on with leather thongs, and keep goblets in tin veflels to drink out of : it is fold at a farthing the glafs. Alfo orange- girls (naranjeras) crying " Naranjas, naranjas ! dos por tres quartos ! por tres quartos dos !** *< Oranges, oranges ! two for three farthings, for three farthings two !" The flower-girls (roferas) *' Tome vm ! tome vm ! fenorito, fenorita ! tres por un quarto ! que hermofas ! que ricas ! el manojo un quarto ! que hermofas yo las tengo." " Take fome. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. .141 fome, take fome, dear fir ! dear madam ! three for a farthing ! how beautiful ! how rich ! a farthing a handful ! how beautiful they are !" The chaife- drivers (caleferos) " Un calefm, fenor ? quantos affientos ? tome vrr. que calefm y que caballo yo tengo ! vamos fenor ! una buelta al canal o adonde vrr quiera." "A chaife, -fir! how many feats? come, fir ! what a chaife, and what a horfe are mine ! come, fir, a turn to the canal, or wherever you pleafe." The news-venders " Gazeta nova, gazeta nova! No tengo mas que media dozena. Quien quiere la ultima gazeta ? Tome vin la ultima que tengo." " The new gazette, the new gazette ! I have only half a dozen left. Who will have the lad gazette ? Take it, fir, the laft I have." And laftly the beggars " Senor, una limofina! por Maria fantiffima! una limofma a efte pobrecito, que no puede ganar ! una limofma por los dolores de Maria fantiffima !" " Sir, your charity, for the love of the holy virgin ! ycur cha- rity to a poor man that cannot work ! your charity, by the pains of the holy virgin !" Then by degrees the various equipages go to the theatres or the Prado, and on all fides company in chariots, on mules, and on borricos. At length it is twilight, the bells ring for the angelus, the lamps are lighted before the madonas and in the houfes, while the wine-fellers and lemonade-fellers light up their 142 f kAVHLS IN SPAI>f. their fhops, and everywhere are feen little tables with french rolls and paper lanterns. " Que ricos ! que tiernecitos ! que blanditos !" " How rich ! how frefh ! how foft !" The noife of the paflengers, the rumbling of carriages increafes e very moment, and the whole fquare is full of people. Here guitars and voleros are heard, there a ballad-finger ringing the lad new ballad and ftories of men hanged, then a vigorous copper- coloured miflionary preaching to a penitent popu- lace, while his audience are appointing affigna- tions. A third clafs of courtezans are now in full difplay, all having now left their hovels and garrets ; and having fortified their courage in fome tippling houfe (botelleria), they advance in high fpirits into the fquare. " Ah hijo de mi alma !" exclaim they, throwing their arms round the neck of the firfl man they meet, and covering his mouth with kifles, " Como va ? como te hallas, querido ? Quieres ver mi quar- tito ? Saves que tengo una camita ? No fe ha vifto camita femejante !" To which they add geftures that would make you blufh even in the dark. And yet thefe women are frequently not dcftitute of wit and talents, and often have their heads full of verfes which they recite. Thefe fcenes take place at the corner of the pofl> houfe TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 143 houfe (el correo] and of the Red de San-Luis, till the proceflion of the rofary with its lanterns, or the guard from the corps-de-garde, difperfes them for a few moments. 144 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER XXIX. Promenades of Madrid. The Prado. Its firjt Appearance. Irrigation, Equipages. Contrajls* Dejcriftion of the Pro* menade in Carriages. Animated Appearance of the Multitude. The Angelus. The Evening. Walks at Buen Retire. Paffeo de las Delicias. Other Promenades on the nvejl Side of the City. Environs in general. Madrid. LET us now take a view of the promenades of Madrid. We will begin by the mod celebrated, namely the Prado (pronounce Pra-o). The Prado is a walk about three quarters of an hour long and is fituated almoft at the extre- mity of the town, which it interfecls from the gte of the Recoletos to that of Atocha. The walks here are likewife interfered by the flreet of San Hieronimo, that of the Jardin Botanico, and that of Atocha. Its entrance and firft divifion from the Puerta de Recoletos as far as the flreet of Alcala is narrow, having only one avenue of trees running along befide the great ftreet, and at the extremity is a fuperb fountain, whither people rarely go. The fecond part, from the ftreet of Alcala to that of San Hieronimo, has in the middle a broad avenue that follows the road furnifhed with , TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 145 with benches and adorned with an antique foun- tain. The third part from the ftreet of San-Hiero- nimo to that of the jardin botanico is narrower, and has only two avenues on the fides which inclofe the road between them and a fountain at each end. The fourth part from the ftreet of the jardin botanico to that of Atocha purfues the fame line along the fofle, and at the end is another fountain. Independently of the principal entry which intef*- fefts the whole Prado there is another on the right fide, both lined with houfes and gardens. The firft appearance of the Prado beginning from the calle de Alcala is very grand ; the breadth of the ftreet, the palaces, the monafteries with their terraces, and the other edifices^ all of fine architec- ture, the view of the magnificent gate to which one of the avenues leads, the four rows of large tufted trees, and the fuperb fountains of marble, all thefe. objects produce a very ftriking effeft. The fame may be faid of the view from the ftreet of San- Hieronimo, which prefents at its entrance a palace, a magnificent hofpital, and two fuperb monasteries, and in front the royal refidence of Buen Retiro, The third point of view from the ftreet of the jardin botanico is more confined, and has nothing in it remarkable. That from the calle de Atocha is extremely animated, and the eye plunges into a long avenue extending as far as the monaftery of San-Thmas. L The TRAVELS IN SPAIN. The embelliihment of the Prado, as is well known, was the work of the Conde de Aranda. The foil .oppofed the greateft obflacles to fuch plantations, but thefe have been overcome by means of an arti- ficial irrigation, effected at a very confiderable ex- penfe. For this purpofe fmall canals a foot in breadth and depth have been cut among the trees, and are every day fupplied from the fountains. Round each tree is a fmall circular fofle, in which the water is retained, till it mounts high enough to run off into the next canal. Thus the trees, which are moftly elms and chefnuts, continually preferve their verdure. * The clock ftrikes four and the fiefta is paft. The walks of the Prado are watered, the venders of fweet- meats and oranges appear, the chaife-drivers arrange their calefas, the walkers are difperfed up and down the avenues, coaches pafs to occupy the middle road and gradually become numerous, the dragoons ap- -pointed to keep order arrive at their pod, the files of carriages begin to form, growing longer and longer every moment, and prefently hundreds of them -begin to move gently along, while the middle. is filled with gentlemen on horfeback? Nothing can be more interefting than this fight .is rendered by the novelty of the fcene. It is here, that equipages of all kinds are difplayed jn the rnoft ancient and mod modern taftes, from, the chariot of parade to the moft miferable fiacre^ This forms a mod TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 147 a moft fingular eontraft both in individuals and in the general appearance of the whole. Here we fee an elegant vis-a-vis drawn by a pair of decrepit mules with halters on their heads and harnefled with cords, there fine courfers with engli(h acou- trements drawing a heavy gothic coach, a troop of powdered lacqueys and a dirty coachman in a grey cloak, the moft ridiculous aflemblage of colours in the liveries, an4 the ftrangeft paintings and grotefque /hapes together with a profufion of vulgar gilding and other ornaments ; in fhort a barbarous mix- ture of every thing the mod difcordant. I will venture to a(Cert, that among near two hundred carriages, that pafled in review before us, we did no$ obferve ten that were tolerable, or fuch as may be jfeen in the great capitals of Germany, as for in- ftance at Berlin, and above all, there were not twenty drawn by horfes, mules being generally preferred, becaufe they bear fatigue better. In ad- dition to this there is fufpended behind each car- riage a fmall painted foot-ftool to be placed un- der the ftep when the company choofe to get out. The appearance of the company within is no lefs Jnterefting. They are indeed very completely feen, becaufe the fide pannels are taken out or formed of glafs. The veil, the bafquina petticoat, and in a word the whole fpanifh coftume have now djfappeared j the hdUs vis- with each other in the fefhion and i. 2 adjuftment 148 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. adjuftment of their drefs, they are all transformed into Greeks, and the nudities for which the climate is an excufe are authorifed by the examples of their models. What vivacity! what art! what a ftruggle to attract attention, to bow to one another, to be ob- ferved, and to make mutual figns ! Young girls with their duennas, belles with their cortejos, old dukes with their confeffors, nurfes with their chil- dren, priefts with pampered faces, officers full of impudence, old mummies of duchefles, and young children playing ! But how fliall I pourtray a moving picture, that changes every moment ? Here are lacqueys running to perform their matters* orders, company on foot going up to the carriages to fay fweet things to the ladies, fome carriages quitting the rank, and replaced by others ; there a reftive mule difturbing the whole train, the dragoons prancing on all fides, people on horfeback croffing, beggars and fruit-fellers following the carnages, and no objeft remaining a fmgle moment in the fame pofture. The feats, which extend from the botanic garden to the other end of the Prado, are all occupied by the particoloured crowd of fpeftators, as well as the chairs in the principal avenue, which fwarnus with people walking. The lateral avenues of Buen Retiro, and the green fward at the upper end are equally full. The water-carriers go crying out along TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 14.9 along the middle of the avenues, the patroles filently walk along them. The people on foot re- turn gaily from the promenade, the whole Prado refounds with a kind of buzzing murmur, and if the veils of the women and the men's cloaks ad* mitted of more variety, it would be completely charming. But twilight at length comes on, the bells ring for the angelus, when the whole company become as fixed as ftatues, and every carriage flops. The prayer being fmiflied, they again begin to move, and carriages obftrucl: every flreet. At this hour the tertullas commence, and the Prado begins to be more tranquil ; but this voluptuous obfcurity, the magic play of the moon's fliadows, the balmy odours of the botanic garden, and the harmonious founds of guitars ftill detain the foreigner, till the deepening (hades and a univerfal calm induce him to retire. There is another promenade in the neighbour- hood of the Prado, the garden of Retiro, that vaft but uninterefting palace, fo well known to all the world. Although this garden daily falls off, yet it ftill retains feme charms. Its elevated fituation, which commands a part of the Prado, the^ town, and neighbouring country, its pure and refrefh- ing air, ics fine avenues of trees and pleafing groves, a large ftieet of water, and feveral fmaller bafms, the i-3 fhady TRAVELS IN SPAIN. fhady mall, and a fuperb menagerie of foreign animals, the great porcelain manufactory, and the artificers 1 dwellings every night attract a great deal of company, who fometimes crowd each other much in the walks along the waterfide and the great mall, It is the firft clafs that principally frequents this garden, becaufe an entire freedom in drefs prevails there, and more particularly becaufe the women are obliged, by aa ancient order of Count Aranda which is rigoroufly obferved, to unveil on entering. Hence the fafhions and changes of drefs may here be viewed at once. As to the men, they are alfo fubject to a particular law, which however is by no means oppreflive, that of taking off their hats for a few moments when they enter the garden, which the fentinels are fo attentive to enforce, that to every ftranger who is ignorant of this ufage they call out, " Senor a laentrada fe quita el fombrero". " On entering here, fir, you muft take off your hat." There is a third promenade, formed by the avenues of trees, extending from the gate of Atocha to the Manzanares, called El paffeo de las delicias, one of which leads directly by the bridge over the canal to the river ; the other turns off to the right, croffes the fields, and again joins the former near the canal. The trees, which are well kept up, are lofty TRAVELS IN SPAINi 15*1 lofty and tufted, and the place commands a view of a rich and verdant plain watered by an infinity of fmall fofies. Both perfons of fafliion and the common people frequent this promenadej the former before they go in their carriages to the Prado, the latter on Sundays. The principal object is to breathe a cooler and purer air. Hence carriages are always feen waiting, while the company are walking in the great meadow that runs along the Manzanares. This lad promenade is crowded, efpecially on Sun. days, with perfons of every defcription, who pafs the afternoon in dancing, eating*, and playing at pelota, and other games. There is another very agreeable avenue, before you arrive at the gate of Atocha, turning to the left at the end of the Prado : it leads to a carthu- fian monaftery. But this walk is rather folitary, and it is only when the number of carnages at the Prado is very great, that the ranks extend hither, and that but very rarely. Out of the gate to the left you pafs before fome very fine gardens, which are full of vegetables, and each watered by a kind of chain pump, and a thick fhady avenue leads along the edge of the fields to the gate of Alcala. The fcenery here is pleafant and rural, confiding of farms, fheep at pafture, hufbandmen guiding the plough, and the great road, which is full of paflengers and carriages. L 4 Thefe TRAVELS IN SPAIN. Thefe are the promenades to the eaftward : I feall now defcribe the weftern parts out of the gate called la Puerta de Segoyia. Before traverfing the fuperb bridge, which is worthy of a finer river, the traveller may turn to the right along an avenue of trees leading to the palace of Prado. To the left he will fee the cop- pice of the Manzanares, near which upon a height is the new royal palace. However various may be the judgments of architects relative to that as yet unformed mafs, all agree that in this point of view it produces a difagreeable effect. A dead wall in ruins with a few houfes of no great appearance rifing above it, a mean gate, and a dirty fandhill, are not the embellifhments we expect to adorn the approaches to a building intended for the refidence of the firft perfonages of the ftate. But let us purfue our route, which now leaves the Manzanares. The road is enlivened by fine gar- dens on both fides, and the fcenery is pleafmg and rural. Here and there are chapels, farms, houfes of ruftic entertainment, and we breathe the pure air from the Guadarrama mountains. To return home we defcead into the valley, where a fmall river runs in various narrow channels. In this part are feen feveral delightful groves, and on the banks of the different channels an infinity of wafherwomen, each having her feparate warning place, where they extend their linen in fumrner, and TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 153 and all the neighbourhood is full of huts for wafli- ing and places for drying clothes. But without feeing the fpot it is impoflible to fofm an idea of the tumultuous chattering of fo many waiherwomen alTembled together. The back part of this avenue, which is bounded by feveral meadows, ferves on Sundays as a place of afiembly and of recreation for the middling clafs who inhabit the weftern part of the capital, at which times the whole plain is covered with people taking their refrefhments on the turf, playing at pelota or at cards, and dancing boleros. To the left of the gate of Segovia we foon come to a pleafant road leading to fertile fields and com- manding a view of the cultivated hills to the right beyond the Manzanares. This road infenfibly afcends,and to the left are feen fome tippling houfes, where the foldiers of the fwifs regiments are ac- cuftomed to aflemble to play at different games. All languages are heard there, but the German is moft prevalent, and the fides of the road are fel- dom without fpectators. Farther on to the right are a ftill greater number of rural houfes of entertainment. Thofe who go there to drink, fit along the road or under arbours ihaded with branches of fir, where they gaily pour libations to the god of wine. But prefently the Manzanares and neighbouring ba.aks are again dif- covered, then the magnificent bridge of Toledo, and TRAVELS IN SPAINi and in the diftance the vineyard houfes, which joiri. the fartheft of the waflierwomen's huts. Proceed- ing ftill in a ftraight line we come again to the pafleo de las delicias, of which I have already givea you a defcription. By this fketch you will perceive that moft of the environ^ of Madrid are not fo naked or fo dreary, as they were perhaps thirty years ago. To the northward and eaftward alfo are fields moftly culti- vated, and by degrees the inhabitants will level the banks of /and and of calcareous earth that ftill re- main. When we reflect on the difficulties arifing from a barren foil, a burning climate, and the fcarcity of water, we cannot fufficiently applaud the affiduity and zeal beftowed by government on the embellifhment of the metropolis. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 155 LETTER XXX. Yht Climate. It i Variability. Its Heat. Precautions nectflary. The Cold during Winter. -Prevalent Dijeafes. Pbyjicians. 7be State of Medicine in general. Provijions. Markets. Mode of Life of the higher and lotver Orders. Prices of Pro*vi- fans. Bread. 'Water. Water-carriers wholefale and retail. Botellerias. Wine. Beer. Coffee-hou/est Taverns. Private -Hou/es. Price of Boarding. MadrU. THE climate of Madrid is peculiarly variable and fubject to fudden changes from one extreme to the other. The cold is no lefs fevere in winter than the heat is oppreflive in fummer j nor is it un- common to fee the wind in all the four quarters during a fmgle morning. Yet the air is in general very light and very pure. The fpanifli phyficians account for all the peculiarities of the climate from the elevated fituation of Madrid, its diftance from the fea, the vicinity of the mountains, and the vaft extent of the plains. The heat, efpecially during the dog days, is fo extreme, that we feem to be breathing fire, and yet within doors the inhabitants have the art of keeping their houfes cool. They are all fitted up on the outfide with Venetian blinds and curtains, and 1 2 within TRAVELS JN within with fliutters; the floors, which are of tile* are continually watered, all the balconies have cloth coverings, and the doors are conftantly opem The fpanifh architects eftablifh it as a rule to build the rooms very high and very long, to make few windows, but as many doors as poffible, and thefc always correfponding with each other. They who have many apartments remove from one to another according to the time of day, but thofe whofe cir- cumftances do not admit of this luxury difperfe themfelves through the kitchen and paflages, at the houfe-door, &c. They make no ceremony of throwing off their clothes, yet no one quits his la- bour. All the other occupations of the day go on as ufual, the great fquare, the theatre, the Prado, the tertullas, and the tippling houfes are filled as ufual, only the fiefta is prolonged, people drink more frequently, and fit up a part of the night* It is only when the folano blows, during which the air we breathe feems liquid fire, that the ftreets appear lefs frequented even at other hours than the fiefta, but after funfet the tumult is the more in- creafed, and every one comes out into the open air to enjoy the frefco or cool of the evening. It is alfo a rule that houfe-keepers mould water the ftreets night and morning. The greater the heat of fummer, the more fen- fible the following winter becomes, although the thermometer rarely finks ten degrees below freezing point i TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 157 point: but the half- ruined walls, the long and lofty apartments, where not a fmgle window or door fhuts clofe, the floors of tile, on which the mats (efteras) retain very little heat, the want of ftoves or fire-places, for which the chafing dimes (braferos) here in ufe are very bad fubftitutes, all theie circumftances contribute to increafe the fe- verity of the cold north winds, which blow from the mountains, caufing a humid cold, which fo- reigners find infupportable. The climate therefore produces feveral epidemi- cal diforders, of which fevers, efpecially of the typhus kind, phthifis, and cholics, are the mod common. The fudden changes of the atmofphere and the {harp penetrating air, which in fummer is impregnated with fandy particles, are the chief proximate caufes. The cholic (el colico de Madrid) is a very dangerous diforder, and, as people here affert, can only be properly treated by the phyfi- cian of the country. I was not attacked with it, but the fymptoms as well as the mode of treating it feem to indicate, that it depends on the nervous fyftem. There are at Madrid eighteen hofpitals, the ad- vantages and adminiftration of which have often been defcribed at large. But the number of phy- iicians has never been ftated. It amounts according Jo the royal almanack to 1 45. It may eafily be imagined TRAVELS IN SPAIN. imagined how many empirics there muft be in fuch a multitude. But ever fince the protomedicado, among the members of which are fuch men as Don Luis de Ortega, have been more ftrift in their examinations, an improvement in this branch of civil policy may be expected annually. Hitherto the preference has always been given to englifli and german phyficians, An Irimman for inftance, one O'Scalan, was the firft that made inoculation known in Spain by his Pratica mo* derna de la Inoculation, and the phyficians of the various embafiadors have found equal honour and advantage in the exercife of their profeflion. Meanwhile every decennium mows an increafe of fkilful phyficians, and the. univerfity of Valencia has the honour of having fent forth the mofl diftinguifhed. Thefe advances will above all affect the treat?- ment of the venereal. It is not long fince the prac- tice of foreign countries began to be adopted, and yet it has already become more general, owing to the daily improvement of public inftrucltion. Man- kind are even indebted to two fpanifh botanifts for the difcovery of two fpecifics drawn from the vegetable kingdom, which are now alfo well known in Germany. I mean the agave and the begonia. The work on this fubjeft has been tranflated into German from the Italian, if I am not miftaken, by one Kreuchauf. Surgery TRAVELS I*? SPAIN, 159 Surgery has in like manner experienced the happy effects of the changes that have taken place during the laft ten years. We read in the public prims accounts of a vaft number of fuccefsful operations, the descriptions of which (how, that the practitioners can appreciate the difficulties they have to encounter, apply the proper remedies, and imi- tate their matters the French. One of the moft fcilful oculifts in this metropolis is Dona Victoria Feliz, celebrated for innumerable operations equally difficult and fuccefsful. This fubject naturally leads me to fay a few words on food and provifions in general. The markets of a city and the provifions brought there conftitute in many refpe&s the meafure of the luxury that prevails. As in fmall country towns bread, butcher's meat, fifti, vegetables, and fruit, are the principal objects of confumption, To in the capital are united all the luxuries of the table, and the productions of all Spain are heaped together in one (ingle fpqt. The market of Madrid is held in the Plaza-mayor, qf which I have already fpoken, and which, if it cannot be compared with that of Covent- Garden in London, is pretty confiderable for Ma- drid; the abundance qf provifions of all kinds, fet out partly under the arcades and partly in the middle of the fquare, correfponding with the importance of a metropolis. On entering we fee two large tables hung up, the one containing the prices of fiih, and l6o TRAVELS IN SPAIN. and the other thofe of other provifions, arranged according to certain rules. Thefe two tables are renewed from Saturday to Saturday, although the utility of fuch regulations is ftill problematical. Among the lower orders the mode of living is extremely fimple, and there is very little variation in their food ; their dimes are . almoft every day the fame. Boiled or road meat, broiled or fried fifli, dried or frefh vegetables, eggs, and onions, con- ftitute their ufual meals, and the lower clafles at Madrid fcarcely know any other feafoning than indian pepper. Perfons of higher rank are no lefs faithful to their national dimes, but they add thereto, by means of french cooks, the refiner ments of modern luxury. For fuch diftinguiflied tables the Plaza-mayor fupplies pheafants from Arragon, frefh vefugo-ftfti fent in ice from Bifcay, pomegranates from Valencia, and water-melons from Andalufia. Common provifions are not very dear. The beef is cow beef, but excellent, (becaufe the beaft is never ufed for draught, oxen being employed in hufbandry,) and cofts five-pence halfpenny or fix. pence the pound, bed bread feven farthings the pound, and eggs about ten-pence the dozen ; ve- getables and lemons are fometimes fo cheap, that four people may make a meal for about two-pence. Lemons are a halfpenny each. The cuftom in Spain is, -that the men, not the women, fhould go to TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 161 to market, nor can the latter be fo employed, even among the lower orders, without incurring the re- proach of bad economy. At Madrid the bread and the water are excellent. Of the former there are different kinds, the finefl of which is called pan candial, and is baked in pounds and half-pounds, in the Ihape of crowns or fmall circles, and four-cornered hats : but how- ever white and however agreeable to the palate, it much loads the ftomach of thofe who are not accuflomed to it, becaufe the dough is again kneaded with dry flower to render it whiter. Hence for thofe who defire it a fecond fort of bread is made called panfrances or french bread, which is a medium between the pan candial and french bread properly fo called, but which far furpafies the latter in whitenefs. Befides thefe there are three other forts to fupply the demand of the various clafles of people. As to the water it comes from the Guadarrama, whence it is brought to Madrid on fand and gravel. It has all the good qualkies of mountain fpriiigs, but our german pumps and refervoirs are wholly unknown here, and nothing is ufed but large ex- cavated trees furnimed with cocks that fpout into a bafon. Only in a very fmall number of private houfes pipes are feen. The cuftom of fending the fervants for water is not known at Madrid, and M hence 162 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. hence arifes a traffic in water which merits fomc attention. -v This fubordinate commerce is entirely in the hands of the Gal/egos or Galicians, who aft partly as water-carriers and partly as porters, like the Auvergnats at Paris, while the Aflurians are ge- nerally coachmen and lacqueys. Thefe gallegos, who fell water both in large and fmall quantities, form a feparate corporation, which divide the city and its quarters, ftreets, and houfes among the members, fo that the walk and cuftom of each become a property, which he may bequeath to his children or fell to another gallego, but not to a liranger. The occupation of thefe men is very laborious, but at the fame time fo advantageous, that moft of them, after purfuing it for fome years, return home with considerable fums of money, and fell their walks for fifty or lixty piaftres. They receive from every houfe where they carry a barrel of water daily a piaftre per month, for two barrels two piaftres, and fo on, and each gallego fupplies ten or twelve houfes. In fummer therefore they are feen at the fountain at all hours of the day, where they often quarrel and come to blows to get their veflels filled before their neighbours. < Thefe aguadores are alfo em- ployed as purveyors, when the occupations of the mafter of the houfc will not permit him to go to marker, TRAVELS IN SPAIN. market, and if he is not rich enough to keep a man fervant : nor is any infidelity to be appre- hended on their part, all the prices being fixed as I have already ftated. This corporation pays a tax annually for the maintenance of the pumps. There is a fecond clafs of thefe men who fell water retail, which they cry about the Itreets, and form no diftind: corporation. They go about with large pitchers on their head, and every one is free to exercife this calling. Thus a poor cobler is con- tented with working at his trade in the morning, efpecially in fummer, and in the afternoon goes about felling water. They carry their glafles in fmall tin cafes or in bafkets. The price of a glafs of v/ater is fixed at half a farthing, and thus during the hot weather they gain eight-pence or ten-pence a day. The wines ufually drunk at Madrid are thofe of la Mancha, and efpecially of Valdepenas and of Manzanares. The quart, which in la Mancha cofts at moft three farthings, amounts at Madrid in confequence of the duties to near two-pence* It is well known that in Spain wipe is kept, not in barrels or glafs bottles, but in leathern veflels made of goat {kin and called pellejos, but it often lofes its ftrength in pouring from one vefiel into another, not to mention the pitchy flavour it always con- tracts in new leathern bottles, unlefs the greateft precautions are taken. It is fold however pure and M 2 unadui- TRAVELS 'IN SPAIN. unadulterated, that art being as yet unknown to the wins dealers in this country. Their botellerias or wine-houfes are much fre- quented, efpecially by the common people, who never take their wine but by copas or quartet pints, thinking thereby to multiply their enjoy- ments. Even when they make their moft copious libations, they ftill adhere to their cuftom of calling for fmall quantities, though by the frequent repe- tition of thefe fmall meafures, taking fometimes as many as twelve copas, the wine-dealer gains a larger profit. There'are both red and white mancha wine, the former of which has a very agreeable aromatic fmell, a very fine ruby colour, and is very heady. It is ftill more delicate than burgundy, but its good- nefs eafily evaporates, and it heats thofe who are not accuftomed to it. Neverthelefs Spaniards* while drinking it, fmoke their cigars without in- convenience. The white-wine is exactly fimilar in colour to champagne* It is fomewhat rough, but not foxftrong, and cheaper than the red. It is fent in hampers to England and America. There are alfo at Madrid liqueur- wines (vinos generoibs) at the warehoufes where the finer wines are fold, and thofe who would drink pure unmixed malaga, fherry (xeres), canary, or madeira, will find them there. At other botellerias is alfo found' a beer called San Andrew's, which is a feeble imitation TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 1 65 imitation of englifti porter, at nine-pence a bottle. It is brewed by an Englimman who is fettled at fome port in the north of Spain, and who turned catholic to obtain this privilege. It is faid this fpe- culation has been facilitated by very confiderable quantities fent to America. As to the coffee-houfes, or rather coffee-mops, there are feveral ar Madrid, but they fcarcely deferve mention. The beft coffee is drunk at the Golden Fountain (La Fontana de Oro), where at lead one gazette may be feen, called El Diario dc Madrid, and thofe who are known there can alfo procure a fight of the London Ga- zette, The nation in general feem to have but little tafte for this fpecies of afiembly. As to good inns there is fcarcely more than one called the Crofs of Malta (La Cruz de Malta) in the flreet of Alcala, which is deficient in nothing but that it requires more ground. It is alfo the bed fonda, that is, the moft famous larder in Madrid. There is a multitude of other pofadas, but people rarely dine there. Almoft every ftreet has other fmall eating-houfes for the lower orders, fuch as muleteers, huckfters, and foldiers. Every one however may find what he wants there ; but there are other houfes merely to fleep at or hire beds as the infcription fays (Aqui fe alquila camas), \vhich is written in letters of gold on a large fign- board. The price of a bad dirty bed without a candle is about a penny per night, but with a can- ' M 3 die 166 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. die and clean fheets four-pence, and fo on gradually up to eight-pence and a fhilling. The living at fo great an inn as the Cruz de Malta being very dear, perhaps too much fo for any length of time to fuit many foreigners, I would advife them to lodge in fome private houfe, in- numerable advertifements of which may be feen daily in the Madrid journal under the jtitle of Un ?natrimonio bufca un hue/fed (a family wants an inmate), by which means a thoufand opportunities of boarding may be found. In fuch families they charge for a furnifhed room with an alcove for the bed (fala con alcova) thirteen or fourteen reals a day, breakfaft and fupper included. This plan cannot be too ftrongly recommended to foreigners who wifh to become familiar with the language of the country, or the manners and cuftoms of the middling clafs of inhabitants, befides procuring at the fame time innumerable other focial advantages. The bare lent fcarcely amounts to five reals a day. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER XXXI. The fpanifi Ladies. Their general Character. Their Ph'.fag* nomy and Figure. More particular Defcriftion of their Lha' rafter. Mixture of Religion and Lil----'in:f*n IVant of De~ licacy. Situation of a Lover. Then Carriages. Cortejos Their dcmeftic Life >>j-rit of Revenge.- ^Tragic Inftance of it. Drefs.The Bafquina and Mantilla. Their Head- drefs. Their Stockings and Shoes. Madtld. IF the men are diftinguiflied by their peculiar character, the fpanifh won) en are diflinguifliable for the warmth of their conftitutions. I will give you fome account of them. A fanatical enthufiafni for the religious fyftem of their country, pride that would bend every thing beneath its yoke, a lingularity that knows no law but its own will, a paffion for revenge in oppofition to which nothing is held facred, and an unbridled love of pleafure are by no means an amiable af- fernblage of qualities ; yet all thefe are compenfated in the fpanifh women by a fidelity and an attach- ment that nothing can fhake, by flrength of mind and heroifm carried to the utmoft height. All their fenfations are violent, but they have a character of energy and of fublimity, that would M 4 carry 1 68 TRAVELS IN SPAIN, carry you away in fpite of your better judgment and of all your philofophy. The phyfiognomy of a fpanifh woman bears the ftamp of fenfibility. Her flender form, her ma- jeftic flep, her fonorous voice, her black and bril- liant eye, the vivacity of her gefticulation, in a word the whole aftion of her perfon mows the tem- perature of her foul. Her premature charms are too foon difplayed, and fade with equal rapidity. The climate, the heating aliments they ufe, excefs in their amufements, every thing contributes to pro- duce this effecl:. At forty years of age a fpanifh woman feems twice as old, and her whole exterior fhows exhauftion and premature old age. Alrnofl all have a down upon their upper lip, a peculiarity which fhows the warmth 'of rheir conftitutionSj but which is fo difagreeable, that they have recourfe to the velleras or women whofe bufmefs it is to pluck out the hair. Almoft all have fpoiled their teeth by an immoderate ufe of dukes or fweetmeats. A fpanifh woman is fincerely and irrevocably at" tached to her religion. Her tender veneration for the madonna, her devotion to her patron faint may occupy her infantine heart, the pomp of ceremo- nies may amufe her unpraftifed fenfes, but thefe pious illufions, this myftical enthufiafm, and thefe facred tendernefles certainly open her foul to the attacks of love. , To love a faint naturally awakens a fenfe of her fexuality, and thus a voluptuous de- 9 votion TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 169 votion becomes from fixteen years of age the mod important occupation of her life. In this view alone can the contradictions in her conduct be explained, and her continual alternations of penitences and aberration accounted for, as well as the phyfkal in- fluences exercifed over her by the priefts. Divided between religious duties and the pleafures of fenfe, a fpanifh woman feems to be in a ftate of continual warfare between her conscience and her conftitution. Yet in fpite of conftraint nature at length overcomes the rigour of her principles, and ihe ends by quieting her confcience with the idea of being able to expiate enjoyment by a mafs or a prayer. Hence it is by no means rare to fee a beautiful woman quit the arms of love to kneel before a madonna, and, being reconciled by this act of devotion, again haflen to give herfelf up to pleafure. The fpanifh women however are very far from delicate in objects of this kind. With a warm imagination and burning pafiions they are ignorant of thofe charms, thofe fweetillufions, which the fair fex derive from delicacy. Hence the mofl un- reftrained language and. the moft lafcivious looks are incapable of making them blufh, and what would excite the utmoft indignation in a German or an Englifh woman appears perfectly fimple and natural to a native of Spain, who yields without referve to fuch 170 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. fuch licentious images, as the former would not dare to contemplate even in folitude. It would be an error however to infer from thefe remarks the certainty of fuccefs in the enterprifes of a lover. They fpeak it is true on thefe fubjecls with the freedom of men; their lips, their eyes, and their ears ure alike ftrangers to chaftity, but their pride prevents their going farther. Such an at- tempt from a man would mow a fenfe of fuperiority, whereas 'tis they mud reign with uncontrouled power. Every fuch advance would therefore be rejected with difdain. They muft not be chofen, 'tis they muft choofe. J Tis they that take upon themfelves the part of the man, to whom they only leave the duty of complying with their wifhes, and giving himfelf up entirely to their will. Hence it is, that the mod timid and the coldeft of men are often more fuccefsful with them than the moft enter- prifmg and impaiflioned lover. Their defpocifm. forces the former to pay homage to their charms, for their pride has fixed upon them as their Haves. The more indifferent thefe appear, the more ardour the women mew ;.the more he fhuns her, the more fte purfues him. One would imagine me loved him, yet fhe only defires to be the objecl of his love. She feems to give herfelf up to him, yet (he only feeks to reduce him to fubmiffion. They TRAVELS IN SPAIN. They are however faithful and conftant. The energy of their character preferves them from levity, and their pride from bafenefs. v They are fufceptible of the moft elevated fenti- ments, of the mod noble facrifices, of the mofl generous actions ; but the fource of thefe mud be fought not fo much in her attachment to the object (he loves as in the high ideas (he entertains of herfelf. She confiders her lover as her property, and ufes the fame complaifance toward him, that fhe wouid feel for herfelf ; but (he exacts in return the moft abfolute devotion to her will. Nothing can be more burdenfome than the re- ftraint attached to the title of lover ; it is one un- interrupted fucceflion of minute cares and atten- tions. Chained to the arm of his cara fpofa, he muft accompany her every where like her fhadow. At the Prado, at mafs, at the theatre, at the con- feffional, never muft he quit her, and the whole weight of her affairs of every kind refts upon his moulders. Never muft he approfch her empty- handed, efpecially on feaft days. To him a wifli however ilightly exprefled, a caprice the moft un- decided, is a command, while the moft inviolable refpeft for her whims and fancies, and the moft undifturbed fubmiffion of temper are facred duties ; in a word he muft in all things be the paffive agent of a woman, whofe ardent imagination often com- mands 172 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. mands wHat is impoflible with the moft impatient egotifm. Such is the general character of the women of this country. , We will now vrew them as relates to marriage. This engagement is formed fometimes from an appearance of mutual inclination, frequently from mere convenience, and the nuptial benediction renders it indiflbluble; The lover however, who has hitherto appeared the -mod humble flave of his intended wife, fuddenly becomes her mailer on. the very day of his marriage. ,. But while he endeavours to aflert his forgotten rights, the wife defends hers with fo much -the more : obftinacy, and 'at the very moment when he is endeavouring- to drip her of her authority, flieincreafes her pretenfions. Thus marriage becomes a fource of perpetual hoftilities, which nourifh a difunion between the. hufband and wife, and which are the principal caufe of the con- tinuance of the cuftom of cortejos. This word exprefies generally a lover, but more particularly that of a married woman. Very fre- quently this lover has nothing but the name, and might more properly be called a friend, on whom are laid all the cares above defcribed. But how can we reconcile this cuftom with the ancient jea- loufy of Spaniards toward their wives ? or have we any precife notion of its origin ? I can anfwer nejther TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 173 neither of thefe queftions ^ but I will obferve, that cortejos are rarely found among the middle clafles, and fcarcely ever among the lower orders ; that they frequently only ferve for etiquette, but that ftill more frequently they enjoy all the privileges of a hufband. This fpecies of intimacy however is fub- jecl to fuch rigorous laws, that the two parties in fome meafure infulate themfelves from all other in- dividuals of their fex, and confider the lead caufe of fufpicion as unpardonable. But if on the one hand a lady watches her cortejo with the mod ex- treme jealoufy, on the other hand (he is- mod rigid in her attentions to him ; for all thofe who are in this fituation never give any other anfwer to the advances of ftrangers who are either indifcreet or ignorant of the cuftoms of the country than con- temptuous filence or haughty difdain. Thus in all the tertullas every cortejo is placed befide his fe- male friend, nor can it be denied, that this ferviie reftraint contributes greatly to give a coldnefs and a famenefs to fociety. In fpeaking however of the multiplicity of un- happy marriages among the Spaniards, I do not mean to exclude all exceptions. But whoever ob- ferves with attention the interior of families, will eafily convince himfelf that happy marriages, which are everywhere rare, are ftill more fo in this country. And where can the women receive that inftruction which they ought to have or acquire juft notions 174 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. notions of their duties and deftinations ? All their education confifts in a knowledge of a fyftem of dogmas and ceremonies, to which is given the name of religion, and in cultivating a few external accomplifhments, fuch as dancing, embroidery, and playing the guitar. To them marriage is a (late of idlenefs and of pleafure. It is on the hufband that all the cares of the houfe and of marketing fall, and in the firft and middling clafles it is even very rare to fee a mother nurfe her own children. All the journals in the great towns, as Madrid, Cadiz, Malaga, Valencia, Barcelona, &c. are full of adver- tifements of nurfes wanted or offering their fervices, and an exprefs condition is often inferted that the child is to be taken away, a cuftom, which though unknown among our german* compatriots is very general both here and in France. It is true that in Spain women were formerly in a flate of the mod abject flavery, infomuch that fmce the general civilization of Europe fpanifh jea- loufy has become proverbial j but in progress of time the manners of Spain, running from one ex- treme to the other, are almoft become more free than in any other country. Women pay and re- ceive vifits, form their tertullas at will, go to pub- iic fetes without confulting their hufbands, fpend the income of their dowries as they pleafe, and de- mand befides a certain proportion of pin-money, which is (lipulated in their marriage articles. In a word TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 175 toord they not only know how to afiert their rights, but enforce their pretenfions with the utmoft rigour. They alfo combine together with a kind of efprit de corps, by means of which the flighted infringe- ment of common ufage is refented as an attack or an injury done to the whole fex. Thefe ill-aflbrted marriages fometimes produce the moil horrid acls of revenge. I will relate one of the mod recent examples, which took place during my refidence at Madrid. Dona Antpnia, a charming woman about 29 years of age at mofl, was married to a merchant, a man of a mild temper, but capricious and of a weak conftitution. This lady had always lived a very retired life, till a young man from Valencia, who came to ftudy the law at Madrid, was recommended to her hufband, and thus had accefs to her. Dona Antonia was pleafed with his perfon, which pro- cured him her favour, and all the privileges attached to it. The hufband however perceived their intimacy, and by means of the offers and honourable means he employed fucceedcd in dif. miffing the young man, without affording Dona Antonia an opportunity of oppofing the meafure. The letters however of Dona Antonia purfued her lover wherever he went, and love and revenge rendered them fo eloquent, that the young man fome months after broke his word and returned fecretly to Madrid. He then renewed hU inter- views 176 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. views with her at a private houfe, and his paflion daily increafed. At length the time arrived, that Antonia ventured to communicate to him a plan, (he had long fince formed, of aflaffinating her hufband, and offered him on that condition her hand and her fortune. Don Juan muddered with borror at the propofal, begged her to abandon the idea, mowing her the dreadful confequences of fo black an action,, which he abfolutely refufed to perpetrate. Hereupon at firft me treated him with the profoundeft contempt, and then gave herfelf up to all the extremes that could be fuggefted by defpair. She employed alternately menaces, prayers, and imprecations, then recurred to all the artifices that revenge or love could contrive, till at length Don Juan consented, and the death of the huiband was refoived. They were engaged in contriving the means of affecting 'this, when the following circumftance occurred to haften its exe- cution. Dona Antonia had prefented one of her watched to Don Juan, but her hufband miffing it, me accufed the cook of having Itolen it, and under that pretext difcharged her. The hufband how- ever meeting the woman upbraided her with her conduct, but me juftified herfelf by revealing to him the whole fecret. He therefore brought her home, concealed her in an alcove, called his wife, and made the pretended theft the topic of conver- fation. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 177 fation. The remainder of this interview may eafily be imagined. And now all was loft, and nothing but the death of her hufband could fave her. The grief of the hufband for the infidelity of his wife brought on a fever, and he was obliged to confine himfdf to his bed. It was therefore determined to fend all the fervants out on the following Sunday, and leave the patient alone. The opening the door of the balcony was the fignal agreed on, and thus the plot was executed. The lover entered the apartment with a poniard in his hand, fell upon the fick man, gave him feveral flabs in the belly, and made his efcape. But the unfortunate hulband calling for help, a young girl who was with her aunt Dona Antonia heard him. The noife of Don Juan in efcaping alfo attracted her attention, as (he ran to the apartment of her uncle, whom ftie found weltering in his blood, and immediately called her aunt. It may eafily be conceived that the latter did not fail to cry out for help too, and to feign the deeped defpair. Mean- while the young man had gained the gate of Toledo, and was going to quit Madrid, when he recollected he had no money : he therefore turned back, and went to his apartment to get fome, but flrongly impreffed with the embarrafiment in which he imagined the object of his love to be, he went to a woman of his acquaintance, and there waited to receive fome tidings of her. N TWO j;8 TRAVLL,S IN SPAIN. Two days paffed on, the report of this afiafiina- tion fpread over Madrid, and in the interval the perfon who was in the fecret of their connection revealed it to her confeffor, who advifed her to go and inform the alcalde-mayor. The fufpicioh was confirmed by an intercepted letter, and the culprits were arrefted. Don Juan immediately confefled, and Dona Antonia, who had at firft denied her crime, was convided. The profecution continued four months, after which they were both con- demned and fentenced to fuffer death. All the intereft and the mod confiderable offers were made in vain. At firft Dona Antonia flew in a rage, when fhe was informed that her lover had confefled, and loaded him with reproaches and with abufe j but in her laft moments her love feemed to be renewed with increafed ardour, and when her fentence was read to her Ihe afked, " Y Don Juan tendra la mifma fuerte ?" " And will Don John fuffer the fame fate ?" which being anfwered in the affirmative, fhe replied, " Pues fenores la fiento mucho mas que la mia" " I am much more grieved, gentlemen, For him than for myfelf," and immediately fainted. The day of execution at length arrived, for which a fcaffold had been erected in the Plaza- mayor. The two culprits, having received the facrament in the chapel of the Dominicans, were conducted to execution by the confraternity del Refugio, TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 179 Refugto. They were both dreffed in black, and Dona Antonia wept. She would have embraced her lover for the laft time, but he turned away his head, till the confelTbr at length reconciled them. She had begged as a favour to be ftrangled firft, but the fentence was that both mould be executed 'at the fame moment. They were each, on a fepa- rate feat. Don Juan fainted at the moment when the cord was put round him, but Dona Antonia fat with great decency, cafting her eyes upon her lover. They were difpatched in about a mi- nute. It muft here be remarked, that in Spain there is a difference between ftrangling (dar garotes) and hanging (ahorcar), in the former of which a wheel is ufed, which turns a cord acrofs a beam, before which the criminal fits. According to cuftom the bodies remained expofed in the fame date till funfet. Twelve candles of yellow wax burned near them on black (lands, and fome of the executioner's attendants kept guard. The whole fquare fvvarmed with people from four in the morning, and continued fo through- out the day. The obfervations and judgments of the fpeclators all bore the ftamp of the national character. The faces of the deceafed being black in confequence of the reflux of blood during the fuffocation, the people of courfe attributed this to the violence the devil had done to their fouls. N 2 They l8o TRAVELS IN SPAIN. They compared the two countenances. The men made excufes for Don Juan, and the women took up the defence of Dona Antonia. The majority pitied their unhappy fate. This probably it was, that induced a curate fome days after to fay in his fermon, .*' that he knew for certain, that Madrid contained thoufands of women, one half of whom had been guilty of fimilar crimes, and the other meditated the perpetration of them." I am willing to hope, that the pious paftor in his zeal fomewhat exaggerated, yet it is certain that the fpanifh women are too often led by the manners of the country to rid themfelves of their hufbands by poifon or any other method. But let us quit thefe gloomy ideas, and fay fomething of their drefs. The national coflume of the women when they go out, confifts of a petticoat called bafquina, thrown over that worn at home, and a kind of veil called mantilla. The former is black or very dark brown, or the latter black or white, and in fmall towns fometimes red or green. The bafquinas are generally filk trimmed with fingle, double, or triple flounces very broad and adorned with filk taffels. They are open in front, being tied with ribands, and are only clofed below. The man- tillas, made of cafimir from Silefia, Saxony, or England, are generally adorned with embroidery or vandyked trimmings, efpecially the black, which arc TRAVELS IN SFAIN. 181 are ufed in winter. They are attached to a pad, which is kept in its place by a comb, or to the riband that encircles the head and binds the hair. Sometimes it is thrown back like a fmall capuchin on the head and moulders, fometimes it covers the face or bofom, fometimes it floats freely, and out of town it is often taken off or falls down behind. The bafquina and the mantilla in reality confti- tute the fpanifli national female drefs out of doors, and without them women never appear in public. The poor and women of the lower orders go fome- times without a bafquina, but rarely without a mantilla ; for it is indifpenfably neceffary to have both to be completely drefied. Young girls from their earlieft infancy wear the bafquina and mantilla, and it is doubtlefs the cuf- tom of wearing them fo young, that gives them that habitual elegance and that peculiar art and grace, with which they ufe them ; a grace by which they are diftinguifhed from all other nations, for the mantilla looks like a fack upon a German or a French woman, and does not become them at all ; whereas on a Spaniard it is a graceful ornament, that gives to all the features an animated and faf- cinating air. Being accuftomed to the veil from their earlieft infancy, all their motions are in har- mony with its undulations. Short and tranfparent according to the prefent cuftom, it does not hide N 3 their 1 82 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. their wade, and fuffers all the graces of their {lender and attractive forms to be perceived. In the fouthern provinces, during the fummer months, the women fometimes wear light jackets without fleeves, and envelop their bofoms and arms in the mantilla in a very pleafmg manner. Vifits of etiquette are always made and received in a man- tilla and bafquina, but intimates throw off both, as they can put them on in an inftant. Thefe two articles of drefs are very convenient, and fometimes caufe the wearers to neglect what is beneath them. Women of the fir ft clafs adopt the french fafiiions, and have almoft renounced the national drefs, except when they go out on foot, or to pub- lic affemblies, to church, or to the theatre. They are always excufed from wearing them in the country, and even in the garden of Retire. Faftiion indeed has already extended her empire even to this fpecies of drefs. The mantillas are now fhorter, and black gowns with long bodies are worn, in which the body and bafquina are in one piece. There are even bafquinas of net work y very tranfparent, under which are light petticoats that fliow the flbape. In winter are worn a kind of pe- lifles over which the veil is thrown back, but the old people find great fault with thefe innovations, and give thofe who adopt them the nickname of Pierracas y Madamitas, It TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 1 83 It is well known that this drefs originated from the time of the ancient Moors, and that it is ftill in ufe in Barbary. Fans feem alfo to have the fame origin, which accounts for their almofl univerfal ufe in Spain from the queen to the beggar, from old age to infants three years old. The drefs at home confifts of a jacket and petti- coat of filk, cotton, &c. The white or coloured petticoats worn under the bafquinas are called gttardapies, and the under-petticoats exaguas. They are furnifhed with a very light white cloth and adorned with fringe. The laws of luxury require them to be changed every day, and even oftener. Corfets however have taken place of (lays, and the pads behind have fortunately vaniflied long fince. As to the head-drefs it differs according to the rank of the wearers and in the various provinces; at lead among thofe women, who have not adopted the french fafhion of frizzing the hair. Women of the middle clafs wear generally a cofia, which is a kind of large bag of taffeta with a number of trimmings. The cofia is fixed to the middle of the head, and embraces the treffes behind. Above it is an ivory comb upon the front hair to which is attached the pad fpoken of above ufed for fupporting the mantilla. They often add an aigrette. The head-drefs of the lower orders of women varies in different provinces. In Bifcay they wear N 4 white 1$4 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. white or coloured handkerchieves, which cover part of their long trefles and diftinguifh the married from the Tingle. In Old Caftile, the Afturias, and Galicia, the women wear pointed beaver caps with fmall flaps or wings, and the hair hogged. In Eftremadura they wear a chignon like the French, bind their hair with ribands, or wear little white caps. In Andalufia they wear ftraw hats, in Cata- lonia nets, &c. &c. The hair of the fpanifti wo- men is generally of a fine black, and the ufe of powder is ftill very rare. In their ftockings and flioes they are particularly elegant. For this reafon their petticoats are fhort, fo that at every ftep the calf of the leg may be feen through the long and moving fringe of the petti- coat. Thofe who can afford it wear filk ftockings, and their fhoes adorned with filver fpangles. They are fa luxurious in this refpect, that many women ufe two pair in a week, and it is even exprefsly ftipulated in their marriage contracts. High heels are ftill in ufe, and at Madrid, Cadiz, &c. the french women who wear flat heels are expofed to continual raillery. Splendid ear-rings and diamond rofettes are alfo much ufed, as well as bracelets and necklaces. The latter often confift among the poor of a fhabby rofary, on which are ftrung counters or fmall plates of brafs. I have frequently heard the fpanifli women of different provinces diftinguifhed thus: The bif- cayan ^RAVELS IN SPAIN. 185 cayan are laborious, the catalonian excellent houfewiyes, the caftilian prudes, the andalufiaa ardent, the valencian clean, and thofe of my pro- yince beautiful the moft beautiful. lS6 TRAVELS IN LETTER XXXII. General Remarks on toe Sanery of the Country ana ike frfi I>n- prejfions made by it CkaraSar of the Spaniards* Social Life. FaJbiaUt Eeclefiajiical Sjftem. Pregrefs.-^ Literature and Ecoks. Libraries. Description of the Royal Library. Jour- nals and [Tbe references (A), (B), (C), &c. refer to the proofs of each afTtition given in the fubftquent letter.] A NEW country feems to a traveller like a new world : for there Nature, men, and things alike appear under more interefling and mere animated forms. At every flep his curiofity increafes, and obfervation cannot remain idle for a moment. It is the firft impreflion that fixes his idea of the whole, and forms his judgment. A thoufand flight traits compofe the general mafs, nor can thefe be, too promptly feized, if we would tranfmit to others an accurate idea, of what we fee, enlivened with that colouring, of which cuftom foon deftroys the freihnefs. On entering Old Caflile we find ourfelves quite in a new country. Uniform plains, few houfes, ftony and almofl barren fields, with a few vine- yards here and there, numerous flocks of fbeep, few horned TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 187 horned cattle, no meadows, no forefts, no gardens nor country houfes, and in general a dreary and monotonous fcene. Even the few villages we meet \vith but fhow the mifery of the inhabitants. The houfes are of mud and half ruined, the roofs, which let in the light, loaded with ftones in order to refifh the wind, but the churches, chapels, and monafteries maffive and magnificent. If we enter the huts to take a view of the inha- bitants, we are difgufted with their filthy appear- ance (A) ; an entire ignorance of mechanic arts (B), a total want of domeftic induflry and of public economy ; (C), their utenfils, their labours, their food, and their drefs (D), every thing bears the ftamp of n-.ifery and want. No one fhows either curiofity or intereft (E); but much pride and gravity (F), probity, want of cultivation, and great natural fhrewdnefs. Their dark fun-burnt complexions, their hair as black as pitch, and their thick hairy eyebrows have at firft a repulfive effect. They have all fomething dark, favage, and ill looking, but we foon become accuftomed to this national appearance, and often pleafe ourfelves in developing beneath it an expreffion of acutenefs and of ge- nerofity (G). If we confider the general character of the Spanifh, fetting apart the differences arifing from the different provinces and profeffions of individuals, we find that pride and generofity are its bafts. Add to l88 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. to this a profound refpeft for the catholic cere- monies and religion (H), an undeviating attachment to every thing that cuftom has eftabliftied, and a fixed averfion for every thing foreign and for all innovation (I). In different parts of Spain, as I have juft faid, there are fpme varieties. The inhabitants of the fouthern provinces are more' civilized than thofe of the north. The higher clafles have received more foreign cultivation : but notwithstanding thefe (hades of difference, which cannot be denied, their general character is always the fame j their mode of life and their manners in all that concerns it are abfolutely alike. Social life does not here offer thofe interefting refources which we find in France, England, and Germany. Even in the capital and in the moft opulent feaport towns thofe public%flablimments and thofe charming aflemblages with which Paris, London, Vienna, and Berlin abound are never feen. There is nothing befides plays, bull-fights, promenades, and tertullas, and the luxury of a rural life, and gardens is almoft generally un- known. The theatres and tertullas have frequently been defcribed. The latter in all parts of Spain are exactly the fame both in appearance and converfa- tion. Large dinner or fupper parties are never formed, nor any but thefe regular meetings at night, at TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 189 at which flight refrefliments are offered. Conver- fation, cards, and fometimes a fpecies of ball fill up the evening. Tertullas are a kind of meeting of etiquette, which takes place on particular days, [more generally every night]] and in which the lady of the houfe forms in fome meafure the centre of union. It may eafily be conceived that this mo- notony in focial life has fome influence on the ge- neral civilization : it caufes a fterility of ideas, a habit of confidering objects only in a fingle point of view, and a fpecies of pedantry in the manners of the people. In general one cannot but remark, that the man- ner s of fociety even amongthe higher clalfes have not yet attained that amiable delicacy and amenity, which already prevail in many parts of Germany. Not that the Spanifhare deficient in wit and vivacity, but nature is here wild and unembellimed by edu- cation, the advantages of cultivation and extended information are not yet fpread abroad, and the public mind is dill in darknefs and limited to mere fenfual enjoyments. Mod fyftems of religion are but the firft eflays of reafori. Founded in the ignorance and weaknefs of mankind, they muft lofe fome part of their au- thority as foon as the powers of the mind begin to unfold, and therefore they always drive to pre- vent its cultivation : and what kind of cultivation can be expected, as long as the public education 2 remains TRAVELS IN SPAIN. remains in the hands of the clergy ? What obflacles has not education yet to overcome ? How many ufe- ful enterprifes will yet be facrificed to the interefts of that body ? And how long will not clerical rou- tine ftill influence the political fyftem ! But fuch is the force c-f events, and fuch the irrefiftible activity of the human mind, that, in fpite of prejudice and of all the fetters it endures, fome rays of light have gone forth even in Spain (K). The government have perceived, that it is their in- tereft to command a more informed people, have begun to fap the foundation of ecclefiaftical power, and favour the cultivation of the mind. It may be wifhed perhaps, that they purfued a firmer fyftem, a better plan, and were more regular in their pro- grefs, but they have begun, and that is a great point gained. Are not the remains of barbarifm difappearing? Does not the contraft of rational ideas and old inflitutions become more apparent ? ' Does not the mafs of ufeful knowledge increafe daily ? Yes, moft certainly. The fpani/h nation have begun to unfold their powers in filence, and will one day excite the attention and the aftonifh- ment of Europe. -The beneficent influence of increafmg liberty of thought is already felt by the fciences themfelves (L). Literature and the book-trade are as it were two fitters, that mutually, aid and encourage each other j but the book-trade is the younger fifter s and TRAVELS JN SPAIN. and literature mud grow up and unfold firfl. The book- trade is formed progrcilively after her, and ferves as a ftandard to judge of her. If political or religious flavery therefore prevents the growth. of literature, the book-trade will in like manner be {tinted and imperfect. This is what has happened in Spain. After the acme of her glory was paft, Spain fank into a unr- verfal decay, and at the beginning of the prefent century had ft ill to begin her literary career. If fhe advances but by flow degrees, if (he fometime$ feems retrograde, the caufe mud be attributed to the clergy, who would for ever condemn the whole nation to ignorance in order to be its matters, and who choofe to confider human reafon itfelf as a monder and a crime in order to fubdue it. In a country where the flighted expreflion may expofe a man to danger, where the power of cenfure is in the hands of monks, we mud not expect to fee literature flourifh. Another inconvenience arifes from the imper- fedion of the book-trade. This defect, which fprings from the abandonment of literature, becomes a fecondary caufe of its decay. The few books that have appeared are printed at the king's ex- penfe, or that oi the authors themfelves, and thefe fpeculations have always been attended with lofs. But the book-trade has improved fince the in- fluence of the clergy has diminifhed, the mafs of general TRAVELS IN SPAIN. general knowledge increafed, and literature gained confiftency and ftrength. More is written, becaufe more is permitted to be publifhed, and more is printed, becaufe there are more readers. It is true the fpanifh bookfellers cannot be compared to thofe of Germany, but there are bookfellers in all the great firft and fecond rate cities, and that is fufficient to fet the machine in motion. Thefe li- breros or bookfellers are not indeed both publifhers and general retailers of all other publications, but a mixture of the two ; that is, befides the works they publifti themfelves, they fell a few, which thofe in the fame line intruft to them on commiffion, with, out carrying on a regular correfpondence or keep, ing a complete aflbrtment. They have therefore no regular catalogues of their, whole aflbrtments, and rarely know any thing of other books than thofe in their mop. If you aik for one they do not know, they fend the title to fome correfpon- dent, fuppofmg he may have it on commiffion, or they procure it of a third, who perhaps fells it for a fourth, and fo on. What delays, what increafe of price muft arife from this mode ! They fell their books bound, and fometimes the bed englifh and french works are found in their (hops. The fmaller bookfellers like our ftall-keepers have flails at the church doors and in the calle de Alcala. There are however many great bookfellers in the Puerto de Cerro. Profeflor TRAVELS IN SPAIN. Profeflbr Sychfen has given us an idea of , fpenifh literature with a general introduction to it, which is very inftructive, in his german tranflation of Bourgoanne's travels in Spain, and to which I mult refer my readers. In ad- dition to that valuable work I fhall endeavour to give a lift of the mod important produc- tions of the laft eight years arranged under their refpective heads. In this however I (hall not filently pafs over tranftations, which form the principal part, becaufe thefc will give a juft criterion of the progrefs and objects of fpanifh reading ; But we fhall never have a complete lift, till there are regular catalogues publifhed in Spain and pe- riodical critical journals (L. No. XI). Such a catalogue is now begun at the royal prefs as to works publifned there, and an abatement of 5 per cent, is allowed on taking ten copies. Libraries and literary journals are two very im- portant refources in literature. At Madrid, befides the collections of books at monafteries, there are three principal libraries, the royal library, that of San Ifidro, and that of the Duque de Medina Sidonia. The royal library is at the weftern extremity of the town in the quarter called Las Canas del Feral. It is fituated in a pretty fpacious fquare oppofite the ppera-houfe, but the outfide and infide are alike p unworthy J94 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. unworthy of remark. The edifice was formerly drily a corridor leading from the palace to the adjoining church. The library only confifts of two long narrow flips or apartments with as many cabinets on the fides, which are feebly lighted. In winter the paved floor is covered with mats (efteras), and the rooms are warmed by twelve large chafing dimes (braferos). Latticed fhelves run along the fides, and in the middle are tables for four perfons each. When a book is alked for, the four confer- vadores or librarians only mention the number, and the under-librarians feek for it. This library is open five hours every day, and the time of fhutting up is fhown by a very handlbme clock and alfo by a bell. There is a very remarkable order hung up, which prohibits the coming there in papillotes or in torn clothes, and requires that no wrapper coats be ufed, except as cloaks, and not as a drefs. The reafon afligned for this fmgular diftinclion is the negligence of young men, who under that cover often hide dirty waiftcoats and breeches. A Swifs is ftationed at the door to fee that thefe orders are obeyed. The abovementioned drefs, which was originally dutch, has long been ufed in Ruffia, and the French have introduced it almofl every where. In Spain it begins to fupplant by degrees the ufe of cloaks, and it has here obtained the nickname of csfoytn, TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 195 eitcyen^ which fufficiently fhows its origin. Thus they fay " Ponga vmd. fu citoyen." " Put on your citoyen." The number of books in this library is eftimated at 200,000 ; but if we compare the fpace they occupy with the libraries of Drefden and Vienna, which are nearly as capacious, the aflertion will ap- pear incredible. Perhaps the apartment of pro- hibited books is included. But even in that cafe the number appears exaggerated. Almofl all books publifhed in Spain as well as the bed foreign works are purchafed, fo that it mufl naturally in- creafe from year to year. As to the librarians, they cannot indeed be compared with a Daffdorf (of the drefden library) or a Reufs (of that of Gottingen), both men who feem born for their offices ; but there is no reafon to complain of them. It may eafily be conceived, that, a great number of books being prohibited, they are often obliged to refufecomplying with the applications made to them. But who would imagine that fuch works as Twifs's Travels in Spain, Bourgoannes's Picture of Spain, and a vaft number of fimilar works are in this clafs ? No prudent man will afk for fuch books as thofe of Voltaire, but of works of hiftory or geography no great notice is taken. It muft however be pre- fumed, that many works of rather a delicate na- ture muft have efcaped through the ignorance of the o 2 cenfors, 196 TRAVELS IN SPAltf. cenfors, and I my Pelf procured without difficulty the writings of Bolingbroke and Shaftfbury. As to the journals and periodical works, thofe publithed in Spain are as follow : i. Memorial literario, a monthly publication fince June 1791 1793. This journal was dropped for a time, but was afterwards regularly continued, and a recapitulation made in fupplementary vo- lumes of the matter omitted. It -cods at Madrid by ihe year 36 reals, and as far as the frontiers of Spain, free of carriage, 75 reals. Subfcriptions are received by a bookfeller named Caftillo at Madrid, frcnte a las gradas de S. Felipe el Real. To ex- plain its prefent plan I will give the lift of contents of one of the laft numbers ; viz. On* the dangerous effe&s of monopolies in trade On certain animals and plants that prognofticate changes of weather On the mode of cultivating coffee and the means of introducing it at the Havannah Whether the in- fcriptions on the ancient Celtic coins are in the bafque language On the works that have obtained prizes at the fociety of Granada Notices on foreign literature On the ftatue of Mernnon On the exiftence and fituation of certain iflands, that are little known, between Japan and California On the obftacles raifed by the ancient philofophers to the advancement of found philofophy On Garnerin's experiment on parachutes Medical obfervatioris Domeftic literature. 2. Mif- TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 197 2. Mifcelanea inftructiva y curiofa 6 Anales de Literatura, Ciencias, y Artes. " Mifcellanies in- ftrudive and curious, or annals of literature, fcience, and arts", in numbers. This journal was fome years ago fubftituted in place of an ancient pe- riodical work called Efpiritu de los mejores Diarios de Europa, or The fpirit of the beft european journals, and contains many extracts from the beft foreign periodical works, together with many other original articles very important, efpecially on ac- count of the ideas they contain relative to ftatiftics and geographical fubjects. Each number cofts four reals at Madrid and five in the provinces. The principal bookfeller who fells them is Alonfo. One of the lad numbers contains the following articles: Wadftrom on the colonies of Sierra-Leona and Bulam Letter of the french minifter of the interior on encreafmg the plantations of trees Marmontel on dramatic illufion Invention of a new fugar- mill (ingenio de azucar) in the ifland of Cuba Notices on North America by Coope On the means of feconding the inclination of children to learn On the invafions of England from the time of William the conqueror Decree of the king of Pruflia relative to the academy of Berlin Arrival at Paris of two elephants from the Hai^ue Obfer- vations to determine the difference of the meridians of Paris and Madrid On the agriculture of o 3 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. Guatemala Smith on dancing as an imitative art On the internal ufe of phofphorus On privi- leges On the Venetian pofTeflions on the coaft of Albania and in the neighbouring fea On the work of the fenator Arunni entitled " The Maritime Law of Europe'* Anatomy of the retina On the pre- cautions neceflary in giving alms Subjects pro. pofed for prizes Foreign books, &c. &c. 3. Seminario erudito y curiofo de Salamanca (fmce 1795). Seminary of learning and amufement of Salamanca. 1 8 reals each number. 4. Correo literario de Murcia (fmce 1792). Literary courier of Murcia. Thefe two journals appear monthly, and contain articles on objects of general utility, extracts from books, &c. &c. 5. Correo mercantil de Efpana y de fus Indias. Commercial courier of Spain and her colonies. (Two meets a week fmce the end of 1792.) It cods at Madrid three piaftres and two reals, and in the provinces free of carriage five piaftres and twelve reals. It contains obfervations on the tem- perature relatively to agriculture and vegetables comparative tables of the prices of corn techno- logical, economical, and commercial articles, but always with relation to Spain geographico-ftatif- tic notices relative to countries remote from the mother country commercial intelligence lifts of fhips TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 199 /hips arrived in the principal ports of Spain the courfe of exchange and at the end of the year a ftatement of the exports and imports in the principal ports of the kingdom. The office is at No. 3. in Calle de Alcala. 6. The various diarios, i. e. diaries, journals, or newfpapers publifhed in the different cities of Spain muft here alfo be noticed. Befides the common intelligence of events they contain mif- cellaneous matter and ufeful information of every clafs, and certainly this journal contributes not a little to its diffufion. 7. The gazettes of Madrid and Barcelona are publifhed twice a week, and the Correo de Cadiz and the Poftillon del Correo every day. The poli- tical intelligence indeed is not very interefting, but notices relative to literature and the arts are detailed in them with confiderable minutenefs. I have feen in them tranflations of the letters of Lalande on the obfervations of Meffier and Burkhardt relative to the laft comet, notices of the journey of Lalande to vifit Zach of Gotha, and the fubjefts propofed for prizes by the principal academies in Europe. The ftyle of thefe journals is confidered as toler- ably pure and good. They alfo contain extracts from fpanifh works. 8. Mercurio hiftorico y politico, publifhed monthly. It refembles in point of form the poli- tical journal, but is not fo full of matter, and only o 4 contains 2oo TRAVELS IN SPAIN* contains the news. It concludes however with notices relative to literature and the arts. 9. Correo literario de Gerona (in Catalonia), publifhed twice a week, of which one number is always appropriated to the military. The almanacks publimed annually (befides the almanack of the court or court calendar) are, 1. Almanaque nautica y Efemeridas aftronorni- cas para el aho calculadas de orden de S. M. para el obfervatorio real de Cadiz, printed at the royal printing-houfe Madrid (imprenta real) at twelve reals. That is to fay Nautical almanack and ephemerides for the year by order of his majefty, for the obfervatory of Cadiz. 2. Almanaque mercantil 6 Guia de Comerciantes. Mercantile almanack or merchant's vade-mecum. It contains a complete tarif of the fpanifh cuftoms a commercial directory with the addrefles of the tribunals of commerce of different places foreign intelligence tables of interefl on the vales reales or royal bonds comparative tables of foreign weights and meafures with thofe of Spain, &c. Sold by Cerro, price i piaftre. 3. Noticias varias y curiofas de Madrid para el ano -Various and curious notices on Madrid for the year. It contains additions to the court calendar, as for inftance the names of the members who compofe the municipal tribunal (Ayuntamiento) and other inferior offices not enumerated in the former, TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 2OI former, the mod recent topographical alterations, and other local information, which are by no means ufelefs to travellers. Sold by Caflillo and by Cerro, price 6 reals. 2O2 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER XXXIII. Supplementary Litter containing Additions and Proofs of the fore- going Defcription of the Spanijh. : Filthinefs in their Per- Jbns, Streets, and Houfes. Backivardnefs in the Mechanical Arts. Ulenfils and Furniture. Want of domejlic Induftry.- Ignorance of public Economy. Aliments. Spanijh Dijhes. Drefs. Cojlume of the Men. Curiojity and Intereft. Ex- treme Propenftty to ajk Quejlions. Hofpitality. Natural Ge- nerojity . Behaviour . Pride and Gravity, and hoa. Perello:.- The Pirate. Pafs of Balaguer or BaLicbet. Hojpitalete. Change in the Appearance of the Country from Cambnls Lively Scenery. Tarragona. Torre del Embarr. Villa Franca. Hoftal de la Or da. Approach to Barcelona. Barcelona, Sept. 171)3. WE left Valencia in a very fine evening, and went as far as Murviedro. We traverfed a charming meadow, the full moon embellished the face of nature with her calm tranquil light, and the balmy air was perfumed with the fcent of orange trees. The villages and houfes feemed to pafs by us and difappear like a magic pifture, till at length, about midnight we arrived at Murviedro. There could not be a more favourable moment for feeing the ancient theatre of Saguntum. We jraverfed the tranquil village, the filence of which was only interrupted by the found of fome folitary guitar, and we defcended near the broad pro. fcenium. The theatre extends in a grand and mag- nificent manner along a mountain, on the fummit TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 34! of which are the ruins of an ancient caftle. The moon {hone direftly above the theatre, and the fhadows of the interpofmg clouds played majef- tically over the vaft feries of feats. Our imagi- nations called up the images of antiquity ; thefe deferted immovable feats feemed peopled with fpe&ators, and amid the filence of night we almoft fancied we heard the noife and tumult of the an- cient Saguntum. How fragile is human grandeur I how tranfient the glory of nations ! Thefe ruins, thefe folitary remains of the ancient Saguntum, will perhaps in a few more ages be reduced to dud, nor its memory remain but in the narrow fpace afligned it in a few pages of fome recording work. This theatre formerly held 9000 fpe&ators. About ten years ago an attempt was begun to prepare it for modern reprefentations. The ft age was cleared of huts, trees, and rope-makers' works, and the bufmefs of refloring it was going on, when the war broke out and interrupted the undertaking. The king however has appointed a confervador for this exprefs purpofe, \vhofe trea- tife, publifhed in 1793, I have mentioned before under the h. ad of hiftory and antiquities, when treating of the literature of Spain. The author there points out the errors of his predeceflbr, the learned Don Manuel de Alicante, and endeavours jto profe that this theatre is not of roman b*t z 3 greek 342 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. greek archite&ure. A defcription of the ancient circus was added, which is alfo ftill in exiftence, though lefs entire. Second day. Our road paflfed through feveral fmall villages to the fmall town of Nulis, where we flopped at noon. Olive plantations, vineyards, orange and fig trees, and fields of wheat and rice fucceeded each other with a charming variety. Here we had a fecond autumn, that feafon begin- ning in this part a month later than in Andalufia. The harveft of figs had already been got in, and they were expofed in all the ftreets of Nulis in order to dry. However mean our inn was in appearance, we were very well received and very well treated. At Valencia for the firft time we had remarked fmall cork buckets covered with pitch and tar ufed for drawing water and keeping it cool. But here we found them in fuch numbers that to every guefl was given his bottle a! frefco. The bottles have on the fide a fmall but very long pipe made ex- prefsly to drink out of, and ufed as the bota is in other places. The pipe is held fome inches from the mouth, and thus no glafs is wanted : but this method requires practice and dexterity. Our landlady placed a little girl befide us, whofe fole occupation while we dined was to drive away the flies with a brufh made of efparto and adorned with gold taflels. * . At TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 343 At our departure \ve were accofted by two tra- vellers, whom by their appearance and flill more by their dialed we- foon perceived to be from Malta. Their features were a ftrange mixture of the african and italian, and their language partook of french, italian, fpanifh, and arabic. They were two merchants in a fmall way travelling from Bar- celona to Valencia, and who in all appearance were doing very well. The converfation, as you may eafily imagine, turned upon the conqueft of their native ifland. They were quite in a rage. Their anger at the fce who had recently taken it burft forth in epithets equally vehement and fingular, but which I eafily forgave on account of their patriotic enthufiafm. During the two laft leagues the culture grew" worfe and worfe, and we regretted above all the want of trees, the major part of the country being covered with lavender and oleander. The five or fix villages we met with in the fpace of eight leagues chiefly confided of two rovys of houfes, of which the rifing roofs were covered with pale yellow tiles. The walls were all of a boue colour, but the low round doors and the fmall green win- dows were adorned with white frames. The air fince we left Nulis feemed lefs pure and loaded with marmy vapours. Fields of rice were alfo more frequent. 2 4 For 344 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. For fome time paft the government have taken measures to remedy the unwholefomenefs of this fpecies of cultivation, but the Valencians feem to- pay very little refpeft to thefe wife regulations. And yet Cilvar.illes and other authors have fuffi- ciently proved by tables of births and deaths, that in a Tingle diftricfc of Valencia (las riberas del Turio) the population fince'the abolition of that article has almoft doubled, the number of births far exceeding that of deaths. We now arrived at Caftellon de la Plana where good roads and cultivatio'rTTuddenly ceafe. The inn however is pafllible and the wine excellent. Third day. The road for fome hours defcended till it came down to the fea coaft, which we mail now have conftantly on our right. The more is moftly flat, and along the whole range of it from the Punta del Margal to Cape O:opefa are an in- finite number of places where fmall craft may land. We alfo found feveral pickets of cavalry pofled there, not only to prevent fmuggling, but alfo to defend the coaft againft the Englifh and againft pirates, who under that flag frequently come on fhore arid plunder the inhabitants. The hill to the left, above which rife more elevated mountains, is in many places covered with melon-beds (melonares), and there is alfo a row of fig trees extending along the (bore. -Alrnoft all thefe TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 345 thefe trees are curved from the fea, all their branches tending toward the land. The fea breezes have a very perceptible effect on vegeta- tion, it is aflerted that only the anterior branches bear fruit. We now quitted this flat fliore, and afcended a fleep hill, which continued for a league, and was covered with wild flirubs. On its higheft elevation we found a fmall iight-houfe. From thence the eye plunges into an im measurable abyfs, be- holds the fea foaming and breaking on the rocks, the horizon unfolds to an immenfe extent, and to the fouthward fhine an infinity of fails. To the left we perceived an interminable chain of moun- tains and before us the caftle of Oropefa. After this the road defcending we paflkd very near that caftle. It is built upon a lower rock, and fmce the war broke out a new guard-houfe has been added. The fea forms a fmall bay at its foot, the mores of which gradually grow more and more flat. We travelled fome time acrofs an ill- cultivated plain, and leaving to our left a large venta, afcended the ridge of another rock forming the pafs of Oropefa. The fcenery was wild and uncultivated, and the road almoft perpendicular. We found however on the other fide a more gentle declivity, and a quantity of fig trees and carobs. Having dined at another venta, we purfued our journey acrofs a defert and ill-cultivated tract of 13 land TRAVELS IN SPAIN* land at a fmall diftance from the more as far as Alcala de Sibert. We were accofted by an old ecclefiaftic, mounted upon a borrico, who amufed us by defcribing the pillages formerly committed by the Africans, who in thofe times frequently landed here. Fortunately the peace concluded between Spain and the barbary ftates has now put an end to their incurfions, but the coaft will long remain in a melancholy ftate of de- vaftation. Alcala de Sibert is a pretty large but ill-built town, where fome dragoons were quartered in bar- racks. As it was Sunday, we found the place full of life and gaiety. The beauty of its female inhabitants is much fpoken of, and indeed I faw a great number of interefting countenances. Fourth day. We travelled through traces of country, fome quite defert, others ill cultivated, as far as Vinaroz, which is furrounded with fine vine- yards. It is a pretty confiderable place, but the inhabitants, who were formerly thriving, have fuf- fered much in confequence of the war, becaufe they can no longer export their wine and brandy. All the fhips had been drawn by mules a piftol fliot up the land, and fcarcely were a few fifhing fmacks feen out at fea. Here is fpoken the Catalan, a dialect fimilar to that of Navarre, and which appears not much more difficult ; here too, for the fir ft time we found the wine, which is alfo very TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 347 very cheap, of a ruby colour, which diflinguifhes the vintage of thefe two provinces. In the afternoon our road ftill continued to traverfe barren heaths, and we fancied ourfelves upon the fliores of the Baltic in the .kingdom of Pruffia. After we had paffed the frontiers of the two provinces over a little bridge, though with- out finding the cultivation better, we arrived at night at San Carlos in a tolerably large and neat pofada. Our landlady was a Piedmontefe, and fpoke French pretty well, as did her two daughters. We were not a little furprifed to fee filver fpoons and forks, plates of englifh pottery, chimneys, and beds with curtains ; in mort a good french inn, to which even the beil in Valencia could not be com- pared. San Carlos, as is well known, is a new- built town, being only eighteen years old. The object of government in this undertaking was to favour the population of the coaft at the mouth of the Ebro, to improve this country by canals, and to eftablim a larger and more commodious port. Confidering the obftacles to be encountered, cer- tainly much was done ; but this fcheme exper rienced the ufual fate of all fuch attempts in Spain j and for want of money the firfl enthufiafm was fucceeded by neglect and total oblivion. Add to this the temper of an adminiilration, with whom favour 34$ TRAVELS IN favour has frequently more weight than patriotifm. How many fuch enterprifes have benefited none hut the fchemers, after being granted at the feli- citation of a favourite, and have ultimately ruined old and ufeful eftablifhments formed with much more wifdom ! Without applying thefe remarks to the project of the Alfaques, I mall merely ftate that fmce the war broke oat thefe works have ceafed, and that their incompletenefs leads to an apprehenfion of their total decay, together with the lofs of all the money embarked in them. Mud not every Spaniard who loves his country feel indignant at beholding, amidft a ruinous war and general mi- fery, the fortune of a favourite raifed to near half a million fterling, and while loans upon loans are decreed, the mere nuptial prefents of two indivi- duals fwallow up the produce of this precarious re- fource, even before it is received at the treafury. At San Carlos we met with two greek veffels, which had put in becaufe they could not keep the fea: the captains were purchafing a flock of wine and bread. They were bound for Malaga ; for the Spaniih in general ufe fcarcely any other veffels for their mediterranean trade. Fifth day.+*-Tlae country we now traverfed was no better than that of the preceding day. We croffed the Ebro near the fmall-town of Ampofta, The ferry confided of two large boats joined to- gether TRAVELS IN SPAIN, 349 gather with planks. It was put in motion partly by oars and partly by two mules that drew it with two ropes fattened to a fmall tow-maft. Oa the other fide we faw a fmall battery ; but the guns Jay without carriages in the fand. The vegetation exhibited nothing but wild plants, a few cork trees, and fome encinas or evergreen oaks. The venta where we dined was in perfect unifon with the face of the country. The landlord was a Caftilian, and his houfe a mere barn. By a road equally defert, but ftill more moun- tainous, we arrived toward night at a wretched hamlet of fimermen called Perellos. The bread and wine were of the word quality, and the fifh almofl (linking, the fifhing fmacks not having been able to go out to fea for fome days. The fituation of this village, which is in form of a bafin, its exe- crable water, the indigence and filthinefs of its inhabitants, frequently produce agues. You would fancy yourfelf tranfported to the middle of old CiOile, were it not for the catalonian coflume and figure of the inhabitants. Sixth day. The country was ftill a defert. Continuing to follow the fea coaft we faw a fmall (hip with french colours cruifing near the more, which when our muleteer perceived, we heard a cry on board, but I only diflinguifiied the word fau. Our muleteer however thought it needful to gallop 350 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. gallop away from the fhore, becaufe by the form of the chebeck and the drefs of the failors he judged fhe was a pirate ; and he told us a (hocking ftory of two travellers, who during a fimilar con- verfation had been fhot with mufkets and then pillaged. We now purfued a very inconvenient road be- tween high oleander trees at the foot of the moun- tain called the Pafs of Balaguer, the ridge of which we perceived before us three leagues diftant in the fhape of a pyramid. The road here afcends in a fpiral line, and the fort is majeftically fituated on the lofty fummit of the rock. In proportion as we mounted, the ho- rizon, which is here immenfely extenfive, encreafed on all fides, and the wind blew a hurricane. The road however is very commodious even for wag- gons, which having no other way are conftantly pafling and repaffing. After mounting during an hour we arrived at a venta oppofite the fort which (lands on a ftill more elevated rock. Here the road becomes fhaight* At the venta we found a company of dragoons, and the ferjeant examined our pafiports, the object of which was to difcover fufpicious perfons, and particularly robbers and deferters. The other fide of the pafs, where we defcended, is a much more gentle declivity, the culture feems TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 35! feems a little better, and we faw Hofpitalete in a very romantic fituation among bufhes near the fea. Hofpitalete confifts merely of the ruins of an old cattle and a few fmall fifhermen's houfes. The front of the caftle toward the fea has been converted into a venta, the back part being en- tirely ruined. There are however dill a few rooms for the picket of dragoons, and a well has alfo been preferved. The more round about the venta is adorned with a few fig trees, and the appearance of the whole is very piclurefque. We faw there a child attacked with the final! pox. He lay in a cork cradle near the window, where he was con- tinually expofed to the frefli fea-air. The eruption feemed about to come out, but the child appeared very well, and was playing with all the gaiety na- tural to his age. The landlord told me fhis was their mode of treating that diforder, and that it produced a very good effect. The road by which we arrived at Cambrils, where we pafled the night, was as miferable as the 'place we flept at. Seventh day. This day, as it were by fome magic wand, 'the country feemed to change its appearance, and we were enchanted every flep we took by the picture of the moil luxuriant fertility. The road wound amidft an immenfe extent of vine- yards TRAVELS IN SPAIN. yards refembling a garden, here and there intcr- fefted by plots of olive, fig, and carob trees, and fields of corn and maize ; .the vines, which are here very low, were loaded with large bunches of black grapes ; every where we beheld the chear- fulnefs and activity of the vine drefiers, and of the women who fang as they gathered the vintage, mules loaded with grapes, and carts full of barrels for the new wine, men knocking down the carob fruit with long perches, and women gathering up the olives. Thcfe carobs (or algaras) are long black hufks containing a brown and fweetifn pulp, with which mules and cattle are fed : they are extremely nou- rifhing, and it is faid they give the mules more ftrength to bear fatigue. Having got out of our carriage to enjoy the beauty of the country, we were offered grapes on all fides, and afked to gather what we plcafed our- felves. Our muleteer got fuch a quantity, that he gave fome to his mules, who ate them with avidity. From thence we arrived at the fmall town of Tarragona fituated on the top of a mountain, from which the eye looks down upon the fea. The road is deep and troublefome, but the view is very grand. A fmall mole not yet finiflied is de- fended by open batteiies, above, placed on the point TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 353 point of the rock, from the clefts of which aloes are feen fprouting up here and there. In the road lay two {hips, the one danifh the other greek, that had juft taken in a cargo of wine and brandy, which are the ordinary exports of this place. This little town contains fame pretty houfes, and wears the appearance of affluence, though, except- ing the noife made by a great number of coopers^ it feems to have very little life. Our muleteer flopped at the fmall village of Figareta or Figuerita, and we rejoined him an hour after on a hilly and incommodious road, but which prefented u$ with very pleafing views. Our afternoon's journey was not lefs interefting: the beauty of the vineyards, the activity of the vintagers, the pleafantnefs of our road, the calm- nefs of the fea on our right, the high ranges of mountains on our left, all concurred in fhortening our way to Torre del Embarr. Before we arrived, we patted another well-built village on the declivity of a hill, which gradually defcends to the more. We afterwards afcended another height, on the fummit of which is Torre del Embarr, where the houfes are elegantly painted and furrounded on all fides with vines, olive trees, and fig trees. The little bay here formed by the fea was full of fiftiing-boats returning to the port, from which we purchafed a very delicious fupper, A A ancj 354 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. and the whole village wore the appearance of af- fluence. When night was come, we went to the beach to bathe, and fifty paces from us we found a troop of young girls, who were playing together and had come with the fame intention. Eighth day. In proportion as we approached Barcelona, the country became more populous and better cultivated. We pafied feverai moftly new- built villages, and flopped at noon at Villa Franca, where we at length perceived high chains of moun- tains extending before us, like vaft ramifications of the Pyrenees, over the whole furface of Catalonia. The fetting fun gilded their lofty fummits with rofeate hues, and we faw Montferrat raife its ma- jeftic head among the clouds. The road vifibly afcended, we left the fea coaft for the laft time till we arrived at Barcelona, and we climbed the ridge of a mountain that was covered with tufted encinas or evergreen oaks. The deep valleys, covered with huts and clumps of trees, were infenfibly loft in obfcurity, the ftars began to fhine, and the wind became ftronger. Thus we perceived that we had left the fouthern regions, and were advancing to the eaftward. The orange trees and aloes became fmaller, almond trees, more fcarce, and the air had a certain au- tumnal odour. We now arrived at Hoftal [de la Orda, or in good Spanifh pofada de la Huerta, fuuated, together with TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 355 with its fpacious dependencies, at the foot of a mountain upon which other mountains ftill higher are heaped up. At the inn we found about thirty dragoons who were fent in fearch of fome banditti, and whofe patroles we faw fet off for that pur- pofe. Ninth day. The firft league our road was ex- cellent, but prefently we were loft as it were among the mountains, continually afcending and defcending from rock to rock. If any thing could compenfate thefe inconveniences, it was the general appearance of thefe mountainous fcenes, which refembled the Alps. We were quite afto- nifhed at finding amid this folitude the remains of a (lone arch, which formerly united the two vallies. We afterwards pafied the Lobregat over the mod magnificent bridge in Spain. The chain of mountains feemed to open to admit us into a valley adorned with all the charms of plenty and with a numerous population. A fine avenue of poplars leads in a direct line to Barcelona, and the ftony road changes to a fine caufeway. It was covered with men and car- riages, and embellifhed on each fide by country houfes, gardens, and plantations. Every thing had an appearance of affluence, animation, and gaiety. Before us were the towers and fortifications of the city, and at a diftance the amphitheatre of mountains we had defcended. Here we again, * A A $ breathe4 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. breathed the refrefhing fea air, and at length pafled the Hofpitaller gate. Within, the walls are adorned with aloes, but foon this verdure dif ? appears on entering the dark and narrow ftreets of Barcelona. TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 357 LETTER XLIII. Situation of Barcelona, Firft Imprejfion made by that City, and the great Induftry it exhibits. Promenades. Muelle de San Luis. PaJJeo Nuevo. The Citadel. PaJJeo de la Rambla. The Shore. Muelle Nuevo. Environs. Montjuich. Amufe- ments. Drefs. Figure and general Character of the Inhabit" ants. Their political Opinions. State of the Commerce of Barcelona.* Greek and turkijb VeJJels. Anecdote of two mal- tefe Ships. Refemblance with the Manners of Italy. Adeligny. Farther on between the intermediate gate called Puerta del Angel and the gate of Santa Madrona are nothing but kitchen gardens, beds of flowers, and little cottages, that have 364 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. have a very pleafmg appearance. At length we approach Montjuich, which we have already feen on various fides and in Various points of view, and we afcend it by a fleep road wafhed by the fea. As we mount we find a vaft number of country houfes and wine mops adorned with artificial gar- dens upon ridges of rocks. .The road is planted with various fhrubs, with oleander, and with aloes, and paffes under the guns of the citadel. Meanwhile the horizon feems to increafe wonderfully, and the eye looks down upon the fea, the town, and the port. This is an excellent fpot from which to take a view of Barcelona. It is the cuftom to go to Montjuich chiefly on Sundays. The narrow road that runs along the Ihore is as full of venders of vegetables as if it were a fruit market, a.nd the whole heights are covered with people. Some fit quietly at the foot of the rock and amufe themfelves with angling, while others fit in groups round great leathern bottles of wine. Some play at pelota or ballon, and others at bowls. Here fturdy artifans exercife themfelves in wreftling, there an amorous couple fteal from the importunity of the crowd to fome retired cor- ner of the rock. Wherever we turn our eyes, we behold affluence, chearfulnefs, and the juft reward of induftry. The fame may be faid in regard to drefs : for the inhabitants are every where adorned with the 8* manufactures TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 365 manufactures of the country. The coftume of Barcelona has fomething peculiar which charac- terizes it. The women wear cotton petticoats of various colours, filk jackets, fine ftriped aprons, (lockings of clouded filk or worded, green or yellow (hoes, long filk hair-nets of various colours adorned with fringe and (lone ear-rings. The men wear culottes and fhort jackets of manchefter fluffs, or of fatin, and of all colours, large black hair- nets, or when more undreffed red woollen caps ; blue and red fcarfs, enormous cocked hats, and the lower clafles wear alpargatas or (hoes made of packthread. Both the men and the women have a robuft make, and their mufcles, their features, and their whole appearance mow a vigorous conflitution. The women without poflefling the graces of the Valencians have their clear complexions, are graver and prouder, but equally good houfewives. The men have an uprightnefs equal to that of the Swifs, and the fame love of liberty. They have inherited the noble fpirit and bravery of their anceftors, whofe arms they retain. In general Catalonia feems to be the great fcene of fpanim generofity. The Catalonian piques himfelf on a mortal hatred to the French, has a marked predile&ion for the Englim and Germans, and the conjectures of hif- torians on this fubjeft are realized in a manner highly flattering to the travellers of thefe two na- tions. 366 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. tions. A fecret attachment to the ancient german houfe that once reigned in Spain feems flill to pre- vail among the Catalonians, and had the French reckoned upon a party in this province, it is cer- tain they would have found infurmountable ob- ftacles in the majority of the inhabitants. It is true the prefent (late of affairs does not contribute to make the French beloved. To them the Catalonians attribute the prefent war with England and confequently the lofs of their trade. Their goods accumulate, their manufactures are at a (land or dwindling away, they have either no importations at all in the prefent flate of affairs, or they arrive very rarely and at exorbitant prices, and the blefied englifh flag, that formerly gave life to their ports is no longer feen, but on board the privateers that infeft their fhores and totally ruin their coafting trade. The Englifh however feem ftill to treat the Cata- lonians wjth a certain degree of lenity and regard. Frequently they have reftored their veffels at open fea for nothing or for an inconfiderable ranfom, and many failors of that province who were taken on board french mips have been fent home well clothed, and even with money for their journey, In general the catalonian merchants can only make ufe of neutral colours, and efpecially thofe of Greece and Turkey ; and the fatal changes their new con-* nections with the Porte have made in the trade of Spaia TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 367 Spain are already perceived with regret. Under the latter of thefe flags the corn of the north has. given place to that of Syria and Tauris, and they even fend cargoes of it to America. I have been told that more than one (hip loaded with this ar- ticle have derived from a voyage from Buenos Ayres to Barcelona and back a profit of above 80,000 piaftres. Hence the Greeks have an agent here, who at the fame time fills the office of drog- man or interpreter. He is a young man, who fome years ago refided at Leipzig, and who fpeaks German tolerably well. At Barcelona may be feen all the colours of the levant, and all the forms of vefiels peculiar to the Mediterranean. I alfo faw maltefe mips, which much frequent this port. Not long ago two of thefe vefiels from the archipelago loaded with cotton had completed their quarantine at the time when the french conful and fome captains of mips appointed a fete to celebrate the union of Malta to the republic. This took place at the entrance of the port, and no expenfe was fpared ; neither wine, nor flags, nor difcharges of artillery ; but the inhabitants of Barcelona were enraged borh at the fete itfelf and the occafion of it. Some days after arrived the news of the battle of Aboukir by an american fliip. At this the whole town rejoiced, and vied with each other who 368 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. who' fhould celebrate it moft gaily as a triumph. Immediately the failors of one of the maltefe (hips began to rife upon their captain, tore down the french colours, infulted them, and threw them into the fea, fufpending them from the bowfprit. The crew of the other (hip followed their example, and all cried out " Malta for England." Of this the french commercial agent complained to the commiffary of marine belonging to the port, but under various pretexts he was advifed to be patient, and in the interim a thoufand outrages were com- mitted againft the two french captains. Meanwhile the intelligence of the defeat of the French daily gained ftrength, and foon after was confirmed. Upon this the failors of the two (hips began to defert, and the two captains found no other way of keeping the reft, than going imme- diately out into the road. But as the failors had hoifted englilh colours, and would not lower them though commanded to do fo, the governor-general gave orders to fire upon the fhip. This vigorous meafure and the want of provifions brought them to their duty ; a compromife was made, and it was agreed, that, till further intelligence mould arrive relative to the fate of Malta, the french and mal tefe colours fhould be both hoifted together on, board. The intelligence that came being favour- able to the French, feveral of the failors were put in irons, and the commercial agent reported the tranfadion TRAVELS Itf SPAIN. 369 trahfaftlon to the french government. It was not known at my departure, how this affair would end. You will eafily imagine, that on this occafion the Catalonians did not conceal the hatred they bore the French ; for their antipathy exceeds all that can be conceived. Their manners and mode of life feem alfo rarher to harmonize with thofe of Italy than of France. Every thing fhows the in- fluence of the climate remarked among oriental nations. Thewomen have a clearer complexion than at Valencia, their hair is lighter, and their veils are more of the italian form. Their kitchens, their furniture, the arrangement and decorations of their apartments, their food, and their profufion of fedias (chairs), add much to thefe fimilarities. At Barcelona are a vaft number of literary and induftrious eftablilhments, the principal of which are La real academia de buenas letras, inftituted at the commencement of the prefent (eighteenth) century, and which in 1762 obtained a royal charter : Real academia de ciencias naturales y artes, inftituted in 1 766 ; here are profeffors of al- gebra, geometry, and ftatics j hydroftatics and me- teorology; electricity, optics, pneumatics, chemiftry, and natural hiftory ; botany and agriculture : Real academia de jurifprudencia teorico-pratica : Efcuela gratuita de nautica (free fchool for navigation) : Efcuela gratuita de los nobles artes. Add to thefe three libraries belonging to monafteries and that of B B the 37*3 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. the bifliop, which are open three hours every day. Barcelona alfb publifhes a gazette, though far in- ferior to that of Madrid both in paper and printing, and a diario or advertifer, and it is the only town except Madrid where an almanack or guide for foreigners (guida de forafteros) is printed. As to the means of fupporting life, nothing is wanting j the provifions fold at Barcelona are of the beft quality, and thofe which are imported, as bacallao, fait meat fmoked, cheefe and butter, are here in great abundance. Every where are feen magazines of wine, eating-houfes, and itinerant bakers of fpice-bread with their ovens, who alfo drefs faufages and periwinkles. Thefe laft are a very common fpecies of food at Barcelona. They are drefled in ftew-pans her- metically clofed, or they are ftrewed on the ground and ftraw laid over them, which is fet on fire. While dreffing they make a noife like boiling water, and when drefled, that is when they can be taken out of their (hells, they are eaten v/ith oil and pepper j but this mode of dreffing is horribly cruel. Wine, in confequence of the high duties it pays, is much dearer than at Madrid. A double quart cofts near fixpence. It is alfo extremely harfli, depofits a fediment, and chalk is often put into it j a procefs which the Catalonians have learnt from the Italians. Mod of the wines fold in the north of TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 37! of Europe as french wines come from Catalonia, and are very prejudicial to the health. There are at Barcelona a number of coffee- houfes, but moft of them are kept by Italians and efpecially by Genoefe. The principal of thefe is near the palacio, which is the refidence of the go- vernor-general. At this coffee-houfe or in front of it all the captains and brokers of mips meet every day from ten till one. Confidering the union of fo many political, com- mercial, and focial advantages, Barcelona would feem the refidence to be recommended to fo- reigners in preference to all other towns in Spain without exception, if good Spanifh were fpoken there. It is true it is fpoken in the chancery and among the higher orders ; but the language fpoken, by the generality is a jargon a good deal refem- bling that of Provence, and in which the pro- nunciation and terminations of fpanifh and french words are often confufed and mutilated in a flrange manner. A vaft number of fhort plays or farces called faynetes are written in this dialeft, which adds much to their comic effect. BB 2 372 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER XLIV. Departure from Barcelona Formalitiei to te obferveJ on Embark' ing for Genoa. The Veffel rigoroujly fearcbed. Milanefe Eccle- Jiajtics. Calo de Creus. Alarm of a Pirate. Gulf of Lyem. Port Grcs. From the Iflw d'Hierei, Port Gros, Odl. 1798. THE french conful having refufed me permiffion to pafs through France on account of my auftrian papers, I have no other refource than to embark for Genoa. Indeed as the feafon is far advanced, the equinoctial gales, not to mention- the african. corfairs, might make me averfe to this voyage j but neceflity renders it indifpenfable. Before embarking for Genoa it is neceflary to get one's pafifport and certificate of health (or bolete de fanidad) ligned, the former at the governor- general's, the latter by the council of health at the town-houfe ; but previous to this the paflport muft be infpecled, and an order obtained for the de- livery of a bill of health. At firft this appears to be a mere formality ; but no captain of a ihip can excufe any paffenger from having it, becaufe thii certificate being the only paflport required at Ge- noa, the Ihip would be inevitably ^obliged to per- form TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 373 form quarantine, were there a fingle pafienger on board without it. With thefe papers then I went on board on the twelfth inftant at night, and found a great num- ber of paflengers confiding of merchants, women, and foldiers that had obtained their difcharge, who with the fhip's crew amounted in the whole to fifty perfons. But inftead of going out to fea the next morning we were obliged to wait for the cuftom-houfe officers, who, on account of the fre- quent exportation of fpecie, are very rigorous in their fearches. They came on board, had the bales and port- manteaus opened, rummaged the ballaft with long iron bars, had the fails opened out, infpecled the guns, emptied the baikets of provifions, cut feveral loaves in two, in fhort they ufed all pofllble means that can be employed by men who receive one half of the contraband property they find. This delay ferved the captain as a pretext for remaining all day in port and waiting for another genoefe fhip, which was not infpe&ed till the afternoon. This veflel being of the fame fize with ours, and each having a numerous crew and feveral four pounders, we hoped at leaft to keep pirates in awe. The next day we fortunately got out to fea with a very fair wind : a ftrong north -weft breeze fwelled our fails, and we ran rapidly along the B B 3 fine 374 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. fine mores of Spain, which being every where covered with plantations of trees and villages, af- forded us a mofl fmiling and chearful profpeft. Among the pafiengers were two youn^ men who called themfelves merchants, and had rather a jewifh phyfiognomy : but I foon learnt from the captain that they were milanefe ecclefiaftics, and had the year before been paflengers on board the Jame veflel. They had at firft been kindly received as fugi- tives ; but, a month after, had been arrefted by the inquifuion, and after a year's imprifonment they had been fent on board and given in charge to the captain to be delivered up to the fpanifh minifter at Genoa. According to what could be con- jeftured, they were accufed of adultery and of having faid three mafies a day. They complained of the tyranny and injuftice of the Spanifh in the flrongeft terms. They dined however with the captain and had wine at difcretion. With a perfectly fair wind we approached Cabo de Creus, when on a fudden we faw a ihip bear- ing fpanifh colours, but which every one deter- mined to be a pirate. All was now in motion ; we tacked about, cleared the deck, and the crew were ordered to the guns. Every one was obliged to lend a hand, and arms and brandy were dif- tributed to all. Meanwhile the corfair after fome manoeuvres at length ftationed herfelf under the cape TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 375 cape to wait for us. Immediately the two cap- tains determined to drop to leeward, to hoift their colours, firing at the fame time two guns, and to go with eafy fail to meet the enemy. We were already within gunfhot, and were all waiting the captain's orders, when the enemy ftruck their colours and called to us with a trum- pet " For dios ! por dios ! fomos Efpanoles" (For God's fake! for God's fake! we are Spaniards). Upon this we ordered her to come out of .her retreat, and perceived her to be a fmall fpanifli brig with two fmall guns and ten feamen. Burfts of laughter and cries of joy now concluded our engagement to the fatisfaclion of both parties ; but the captain, like a true Genoefe, boafted of his courage all day, and the great exploits he would have achieved ! This comic incident was fucceeded by a more ferious event, when we got into the gulf of Lyons, which in winter is extremely dangerous. The wind had been very favourable till about eleven o'clock, when it fuddenly mifted to the fouth-eaft. The waves rofe to a prodigious height, made a noife like thunder, and the rolling of the hip ex- ceeded any thing I had ever experienced. At midnight all hands were obliged to pump, we were drenched with water, and imagining we had fprung a leak there was a general cry of defpair. At three o'clock the captain cried out that the wind blew B D 4 ftrong 376 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. ftrong from the fouthward, and that we fhould be caft on the lee (bore. Every one looked forward to certain death, and all hands went to prayers. I felt refigned, yet not without fome hope, kept up my fpirits with good wine, which is certainly the beft expedient on fuch an occafion. Thus we fcudded along in a dreadful ftate of uncertainty till near fix o'clock, when the wind at length fomewhat abated, day began to dawn, we found ourfelves in the latitude of Marfeilles, and the wind having veered a little to the weft- ward, we hoped foon to get into fmoother water. The ftorm and the waves conftantly diminifhed as we flood off and on, and when toward eleven we approached the ifles d'Hieres, fome beneficent genius feemed to have fpread a calm over the whole face of nature, and we already felt the in- fluence of this delicious climate. At length the wind came round due weft, and every one already rejoiced at the hope of arriving fpeedily on the coaft of Genoa, when we difcovered two englifh frigates that gave us chace. It was then decided to enter Port-Gros, where after making ourfelves known we caft anchor at the head of a fmall bay. Here we have remained thefe three days waiting for a favourable wind. I have however come on fliore. This little rocky ifland is full of Ihrubs in- habited by innumerable birds, and we find a great quantity of arbutus and acacias. To the fouthward is TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 377 is aguard-houfe with barracks adjoining, and a bat- tery. The garrifon confifts of four gunners and a lieutenant, who with two women and three chil- dren are the only inhabitants of the ifland. Our captain gave this officer two frnall barrels of wine, in exchange for which he obtained permiffion to cut wood enough to fill his boat, hoping tp fell this cargo with great profit at Genoa. 378 TRAVELS IN SPAIN. LETTER XLV. Cocifts. .Ligbt-Jioufe. View of Genoa.'" A Pbyfician, Imprejpons. Coaclujion. Genoa, Oft. IJQt. AT three in the morning we fet fail by moonlight, and a ftrong north wind drove us along the coaft of Provence, fo that we foon left Nice and Antibes behind us with their olive-covered hills. The ma- jeflic maritime Alps already began to rife as it were from the furface of the ocean, till at length the coaft of Genoa ftruck our eyes in all its mag- nificence. Thefe high mountains covered with wood, that multitude of villages and fmall well- built towns, that variety of cultivation, the luxu- riancy of the vegetable world, all concurred to render this one of the fineft views in the Mediter- ranean. It was about eleven o'clock when we perceived the genoa light-houfe. The Iky being overcaft, it flamed like a ball of fire elongated into the form of a column. Toward three w.e arrived at the en- trance of the harbour. Orders were given us with a fpeaking trumpet from the top of the light-houfe, and we were obliged to caft anchor till day-break. The TRAVELS IN SPAIN. 379 The light-houfe fires now began to fade, and we diftinguifhed the port and the mafts of (hips ; the alpine mafles of mountains came forth from their obfcurity, and the dufky hue of the waters cleared up from one moment to another. Every object now refumed its proper form, and the magnificent amphitheatre of mountains rifing above the waves difplayed itfelf to our view. A vaft variety of noifes already interrupted the calmnefs of the port, the purple tints of morning fhone upon our white flag, at length the fun rofe, and we faw Genoa diftinclly before us. After a fpanifh frigate flationed here had afked us fome queftions relative to news at fea, we were towed into the port, and at length we anchored in the midft of four tiers of {hips almofl at the extremity of the quay. A (loop then appeared at a diftance, on board of which was a phyfician who demanded our certificates of health. After they had been well perfumed, he ordered all the crew to appear on the quarter-deck and counted every one. He fixed his eyes upon us gravely for a few minutes, and at length permitted us to go on more, where having proceeded a few paces I pafled a gate of no very grand appearance, and entered the mag- nificent city of Genoa. A motley mixture of men and women, to which my eyes were not of late accuftomed, flruck my fight 5 a multitude of monks and priefts with large cockades }8o TRAVELS IN SPAIN. *J cockades on their hats and clothes, trees of liberty, national decrees ported up, french foldiers at every ftep, innumerable (hops with heaps of gruyere cheefe, milliners' mops in abundance, every thing feemed to tranfport me to a new world. Genoa feems to have become what could never have been expefted, a department of France. Where then is the luflre of the ancient italian re- publics ? It has difappeared, it has made way for modern conceits ! Let thgte who believe in the {lability of human eftablifhments learn to acknow- ledge their fragility, let them read hiflory and abandon their vifionary abfurdities. APPENDIX. ON THE MODE OF TRAVELLING IN SPAIN. - THOUGH during the whole of the lyth century Switzerland, Italy, France, England, and Holland had been conftantly travelled over by foreigners, yet it is not thirty years fmce a journey in Spain was confidered as an expedition to the end of the world. For how could any one wifli to vifit a country, which, in the difcredit it had ac- quired by the terror of the inguifition and the bar- barifms of its manners, offered the foreigner no compenfation for the dangers and inconveniences of all forts he muft there experience ? As none therefore but a few political, military, or commer- cial adventurers, had as yet encountered thefe ob- ftacles, their accounts induced men. fifty years ago to think Spain a country of favages, whofe inhabitants were nearly on a par with the Hottentots. But during the laft five-and-twenty years this opinion has in fome meafure changed. The ad- vances made by the Spanifh under Ferdinand VI. and 32 AFPJENDIX. and ftill more under Charles HI. foon attracted the notice of engli/h and french obfervers, who rifing above prejudice, began to vifit a country which promifed fome interefling difcoveries to the lovers of hiftory and philofophy,. to the moralift, and to the ftatefman. It was the englifti traveller Twifs who in 1770 firft awakened public atten- tion to thefe improvements, and Bourgoanne and Townfend in fpite of the unjuft farcafms of Swinburne confirmed the opinion of their prede- ceflbrs. The wrker of the foregoing letters has had oc- cafion to traverfe Spain in all directions, and has here collected all the information he was matter of relative to travelling poft, hired carriages, pub- lic roads, inns, &c. which he hopes may form a tolerably complete treatife on the mode of travel- ling in Spain ; and as foreigners who would vifit that country with a view to mineralogy, botany, or commerce, or even from mere curiofity, will in all probability increafe, he thinks he is doing fome fervice in publifhing his obfervations ; and the more as his own experience has made him too fenfible of the want of fimilar information. Hitherto there have been no regular pofts or ftage coaches in Spain. It is true, count Florida Blanca, while minifter, once eftablifhed at the king's expenfe a diligence between Madrid and Bayonne at the moderate price of twelve piaftres (pefos APPENDIX. 383 (pefos fuertes or dollars of twenty reals de vellon) exclufi ve of meals ; but the intrigues of the coach- men or owners of hired carriages and innkeepers ruined this eftablimment, the bad adminiftration of it caufed great difguft in the outfet, and the great lofs fuffered by the treafury the firft year prevented fimilar diligences from being fet up to Cadiz, Ba- dajoz, and Barcelona. That of Bayonne however continued till the war with France broke out, when the undertaking ceafed of itfelf for want of paflengers, and it is probable will not be renamed. The poft extraordinary confifts either of mere pod faddle-horfes(monturos)orpofl-carriagesandhorfes. Every traveller who has health and ftrength to en- dure the fatigue may travel on poft-horfes ; but then he muft fet out from a town where there is an office for that purpofe, at which he may apply for a pafiport or licence to travel poft : otherwife it would be impoffible for him to obtain horfes in the midft of his journey, as for inftance between Madrid and Badajoz, whatever neceflity or inclina- tion might arife for difpatch, or for leaving his own horfes or carriage on the road and riding poft. The motive of this regulation feems to be a prudent precaution of the government to prevent fufpicious perfons from entering and advancing into the heart of the kingdom, or perhaps through fome relation to the general organization of poft- ing, becaufe the roads in great meafure traverfe 2 mountains, APPENDIX:. mountains, and the poft-mafters are generally only 1 venteros or inn-keepers, who happen to be dif- feminated over the furface of the country. But when the abovementioned paflport is obtained, it contains an order that the traveller be expedited in half a quarter of an hour, unlefs a total want of horfes prevent. The ports or ftages are two fpanifh leagues, and muft be performed in three hours. The price ac- cording to the tarif is for two horfes including the traveller and the poftillion four pefettas per poft or about three (hillings, and the drink money to the poftilion is fixed at two reals j but it is always necef- fary to give them double and confent to pay for their dinner befides, both in order to procure the beft horfes and to avoid other bad confequences of difpleafing them and acquiring their ill-will. To thefe extras muft be added the expenfe of fome refrefhments for the traveller himfelf, which will amount to ten reals per poft of two leagues, but then he will travel exceedingly well, and may reckon upon having ftrong and a&ive horfes, that will carry a portmanteau of fifty or fixty pounds weight and will befides be always quickly dif- patched. If the traveller has alfo a good englifli poft-faddle. he will go forty or fifty german miles in two days, which notwithftanding the rapidity of the journey will caufe little or no fatigue. Should the traveller however be unweH, and obliged to. reft APPENDIX. 385 for a few hours or even a whole night, he may do it ; but thofe who arrive in the mean time will then have the preference, and he muft be contented to run the riik of finding no horfes when he wifhei to continue his journey. As to the poft extraordinary in carriages , the poft- mafters are obliged to fupply two perfons having their own carriage and baggage not exceeding two hundred pounds weight with two horfes, and the price is the fame as for faddle-horfes. For the oft-chaife itfelf, if that be alfo taken of the poft. mafter, they pay four reals each poft, and the poftillion's fee is taxed at two reals. We muft reckon therefore upon paying twelve or thirteen reals per league ; but then we travel very faft, and go for inftance from Madrid to Cadiz, which is one hundred (faxon) miles, in four days and fout nights. Thofe who do not choofe to travel poft go in hired carriages, and this is the mode generally adopted. In all towns of any confideration are caleferos, alrnoft all from Valencia, Murcia, or Catalonia, who convey travellers into all parts, even to Perpignan, Bordeaux, and Lifbon. They have heavy coaches for fix pafiengers drawn by fix mules, or chaifes (calefas) for two with one or two mules. They go from fix to eight fpanifh leagues a-day or at moft fix german miles, and their price is in proportion to their number of mules. C c They 386 APPENDIX. They are generally paid two piaftres a day each, but the following obfervations muft be attended to. A carriage may be hired either direft out or on the return. In the firft cafe you muft pay the journey out and home, which if the diftance be great amounts to a confiderable fum : but you are rarely obliged to hire them out and home, becaufe moft of the proprietors of carriages go to the great towns on fpeculation. In the great inns of Madrid, Cadiz, Seville, Badajoz, &c. are always found car- riage-brokers (corredores de carriages y coches) with a lift of all thefe carriages, for which they endeavour to find paflengers. Thus it becomes cafy to find return carriages, and then the mere journey itfelf is paid for ; but you muft treat with them very coolly, and pay no attention whatever to the advice of the inn-keeper, nor to the language of the broker, and infift abfolutely on this con- dition. As foon as they perceive you will not give more, the driver will come himfelf and endeavour to make a bargain with you. If it mould happen, as it frequently does, that feveral of them are going to the fame place, and efpecially to the fea ports, which they prefer to any other journey, you may have your choice, and may even fometimes make them lower their price feveral piaftres. Theory? rule therefore to be obferved is to agree not to pay the return. Thefecond rule is to avoid being cheated in the number of days journey. Bayonne APPENDIX. Bayonne for inflance is fixty fpanifh leagues from Madrid, and the journey may eafily be performed in eight days. The price therefore for fix mules at two piaftres each per day amounts for eight days to ninety-fix piaftres; but an artful driver may employ ten days on the road, either to fave his inules or to charge two days more. To avoid this it is necefiary to procure exaft information, and ftipulafe with the muleteer to perform the journey in a certain fixed fpace of time, under pain of deducting one third of the fare. The third rule is never to agree to give a farthing extra, neither for the driver, nor the mules, cuftom-houfe dues, repairs, &c. If the traveller agrees to pay for the driver's dinner, or for other mules, the number being ftill fixed at two, it will amount to an enormous fum. It is better therefore to promife them in general a reaforiable drink-money, about four piaftres. Neither muft you agree to pay for their tobacco, which they frequently afk. An un- experienced traveller would confider this as a trifle ; but he would foon perceive with what ef- frontery his indulgence would be abufed, and with what liberality they would give fome to all their acquaintance at every inn at his expenfe, which confidering the enormous price of tobacco in Spain (three piaftres a pound) becomes a considerable objecl:. The fourth rule is that as by paying for the fix mules you obtain an exclufive right over e e 2 the APPENDIX. the carriage, the driver has none to take any other paflenger without your exprefs permiflion even upon his own feat : whereas the traveller may let out a feat if he choofes or admit a paflenger gratis. fifth rule, If you mould happen to wifh to (top a day upon the road, the driver is obliged to agree to it provided you pay him his day's journey, and the fame if you wifh to go round to fome other place, and in this cafe three or four fpanifh leagues would be confidered as half a day's journey. But as it is fometimes the intereft of the muleteer to reft his mules, he may on thefe occafions be induced to accept two thirds of what he might charge. Sixth rule, The driver is refponfible for every trunk and bundle you confide to his care, except in cafe of robbery by force. Seventh rule, In making your bargain you muft not forget to exprefs in what money the payment is to be made : for as there is in fome places a profit on filver, as at Barcelona and Bilboa, they are accuftomed to make their de- mand in going from thofe places in doubloons, on' returning thither in piaftres. You mould take care however to make your bargain to pay in the money you may have, without obliging your- felf to change on purpofe to make the exact fum. [Eighth rule, Never mow much money in travel- ling.] It may eafily be conceived that a fingle traveller will rarely be induced to hire a carriage with fix mules, APPENDIX. 389 mules, which is only ufed for families or parties 5 when alone it is better to hire a fmgle place. If the muleteer does not find an opportunity to let his whole carriage to one party, he endeavours to find feveral travellers, and then makes his firft bargain at the rate of three or four piaftres, and the reft for fomething lefs. Thefe are often ad* vertifed, and if three places are taken the fourth may frequently be had for a piaftre or one and a half per day. The tv/o firft places give a right to take a portmanteau ; but the muleteers make no difficulty to take portmanteaus, packets, &c. If there are no fmgle places to be taken, ths traveller may hire a calefa or a kind of one-horfe chaife to which the above obfervation relative to the return will alfo apply. The charge is then two piaftres per day for one mule, and if your baggage is trifling, that is if it does not exceed fifty pounds, you may diminifh your expenfe by taking another traveller. To determine the lawful weight it fuf- fices to know that they reckon from feven hundred and fifty to eight hundred pounds for a draught mule. The caleferos being generally proprietors of their vehicles, and dreading a long ftay in the great towns, you may frequently make them abate one third of the price, but you muft never forget the above-mentioned precaution of fixing the num- ber of days. It may alfo be obferved, that, however ?uui manners,- to politics, or to commerce." Monthly Review, Jan. 1802* c Our conftant read rs, we make no doubt, will purti- .ipite in the fa- tisfaction we derive in a renewal of our acquaintance with this celebrated author, whofe travels in Upper and Lower Egypt were honoured with general approbation, in our country, as well as in France and oiher coun- tries on the continent. Tne former work defervedly gave him the firfl rank in the catalogue of diftinguifhed literary characters of our time, and Che urefent is a ratification of his title to this pre-eminence." European Mag. Dec. 1801. 4. TRAVELS m the OTTOMAN EMPIRE, EGYP T, and PERSIA, undertaken by order of the government, of France, during the fir ft fix years of the republic^ by G A. OLIVIER, member cf the national inftitute, of the fociety of agriculture of the department of the Seine, &c. &c. Tranflated from the French, under the author's infpedtion 2 vols. 8vo. with an atlas. Price il. 6s. 6d. in boards. Another edition, i vol. 410. price 2!. 2s. boards. 5. A VOYAGE round the WORLD, performed d ring the years 1790, 1791, and 1792, by ETIENN MARCHAND ; preceded by an hiftorical introduction, and illuftrated by charts, &c. Tranflated from the French of C. P. CLARET FLEURIEU, of the national inftitute of nrts and fciences, and of the board of lon<- gitude of France. In 2 vols, 410. with an atlas. Price 3! 135. 6d. in boards. Another edition in 8vo. price il. us. 6d. Printed by A. Strahan, Printers-Street. flCSB -LIBRARY